Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-af
- - - , 20- - July 21, 1997
| Subject: | Re: Rotax warrantee card, carb heat product |
Before you go writing checks to people for aftermarket carb warmers ask
yourself if you have a carb ice problem that requires carb heat. I flew my
mark 2 in alot of cold weather and never had a problem, or more accurately I
never had a problem I could attribute to carb ice. A number of folks I have
talked to think that carb ice can't happen on a 582/503 because the oil in
the fuel coats the carb throat and there is no place for the ice to stick.
Others think that the carbs are too close to the warm engine block to allow
it to form. I don't know if either of these propositions is true, but they
make a little sense. Why not wait until you know you have a problem before
you begin to apply bells and whistles. I'd be interested in what the rest of
the group thinks of this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A Lass & A Lack <rcarroll(at)cyberhighway.net> |
I'm looking into buying a used Firefly with a 377 and need just bit of
help from you. I realize that most of you guys have 503s and 582s, but
the earlier Kolbs had smaller engines. I'm sure they changed to more
power for a reason, but does anyone know how they performed with the
377? I've flown a friend's MXL with a 377 and it flew pretty well, and
of course there are all the older planes (and now newer ones) with the
Cuyuna 430.
Thanks for anything you can offer,
Ron Carroll, Independence, Oregon (7S5)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gb.eaa-cfi(at)juno.com |
I'm looking for a good reasonably priced handheld transciever with a jack
for push to talk. Sonethging in the $200 - $300 range
I specifically would like a IC-A20, but will listan to anything.
If I can't find a used one soon I'll be forced to buy "new".
George P. Bindl May blue skies, tail winds, lift, and the memories of
our aviation pioneers always be with you !!
Doug Prange
evoice(at)acton.com
--------- End forwarded message ----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
>I'm looking into buying a used Firefly with a 377 and need just bit of
>help from you. I realize that most of you guys have 503s and 582s, but
>the earlier Kolbs had smaller engines. I'm sure they changed to more
>power for a reason, but does anyone know how they performed with the
>377? I've flown a friend's MXL with a 377 and it flew pretty well, and
>of course there are all the older planes (and now newer ones) with the
>Cuyuna 430.
>
I don't have any firsthand knowledge of this, but here's my take
on it:
The FireFly should fly just fine with a 377 (or a 277 for that matter).
The Quicksilver is extremely draggy, and while the FireFly is no Glasair,
it is a good deal more clean than a Quicksilver. I don't think that
it would be going to far to say that a FireFly with the 377 will outperform
(possibly greatly outperform) the Quick you flew.
Of course, the best way to decide is to fly the plane before buying
it. If that isn't possible, have the owner demonstrate it for you...
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Unintentional takeoff |
I was at the airport yesterday getting some wheel up taxi
practice and then doing some crow hops. I was having a tough
time (psycologically) keeping the nose down during the crow hops.
In level flight, the FireFly looks like its diving into the
ground... Weird optical illusion. I was told by my instructor to
keep the nose down and go faster. (I had to pull back quite a bit
on the stick to get it in the air, so in retospect, I probably
wasn't going fast enough was dangerously close to a stall.)
(My airspeed indicator seems to be indicating way high.)
Anyway, on what would turn out to be the last crowhop of
the day, I got up in the air a lot higher than I liked. The end
of the runway was coming up fast, and I wasn't sure if I could
get it down in time. Horror stories of people chopping the power
and stalling in from 20 feet came to mind. I did what I knew I
had to; I brought up the power and began to climb out. I could
only immagine what my instructor was thinking. :) In reality, I
was not as prepared as I should have been. I wasn't sure what
full throttle RPM should be, so I held it back a little bit. I
know now that it is 6800RPM, so my next takeoff will be better.
I got up to pattern altitude as I turned onto crosswind leg,
hoping that the engine would stay running. :) I turned downwind,
came off on the power, and stuck the nose forward. I gradually came
down; turned base, then final, and came in over the runway and
did a 3 point landing. I can't take credit for that though; I thought
I was still in a flying attitude. Landings (from the crow hops, etc)
were sort of scary, because it looks as if I'm doing a wheel landing
and it seems like it will pitch over on its nose. It doesn't,
obviously, but that optical illusion makes things a little hairy. :)
I didn't know what to expect as I taxied back to my instructor,
who was watching me along with Ed Fisher. He said that my whole
flight looked awkward because I was nose high all the way through.
He suggested that I take it up and get used to what level flight looks
like. Ed held the tail up to reinforce what level flight looks like,
and asked wether I had looked at my wings when I was flying. I said
"No." (I was too busy trying to calm myself down and convince myself
that I could land the plane safely.) As he explained why he asked,
it dawned on me... Duhhh... Look at the angle of the wings to the
horizon! That's my best reference point!
I didn't even know it, but I was probably close to stall all the
way through that flight! In fact, while I was landing, it was
doing a strange pulling to the right. Come to find out, my instructor
told me that my right wing was beginning to stall as I was landing,
and that I was completely stalled before I touched down. I thought
I was flying it into the ground with a little power! Looking back
in retrospect, that gives me the heebie-jeebies! I know what to watch
for now; my next flight will be with a full load of fuel and I'm not
coming back until I have a handle on level flight.
I have about 12 hours of time (mostly instruction, some solo) in a
Piper J-3. If it were not for that training, I would probably have
done something stupid. (More stupid than having an unintentional
takeoff, that is.) ;) If you're considering trying to teach yourself
how to fly, don't!! I'm completely comfortable in the J-3, but the
different "flight attitude" of the Kolb was confusing; if I had to teach
myself how to fly at the same time, the results would have almost
certainly been deadly. ...a word to the wise. :)
How did it fly? I have no idea! I was too busy trying
to maintain composure and get back on the runway to notice. (The
adrenalin rush didn't help.) It didn't do anything surprising, and
it seemed to act as an airplane should, so that's a good sign. :)
The one thing I did notice is that the side to side (aeleron) motion
of the stick is a lot more stiff than the front to back (elevator) motion.
I think that front to back and side to side are about the same on the
ground, but the side to side motion stiffens up in flight. Is this
normal?
Well, enough out of me. :)
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Re[2]: Rotax warrantee card, carb heat product |
On Wed, 4 Jun 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> On the Lycomings engines used in GA aircraft the carburetor is mounted
> to the bottom of the oil sump (pan). Yes, I can and have had carb ice
> even though it mounted on was is to be perceived as a warm/hot
> surface. I don't see any difference on the Rotax for that matter.
>
> (my cans worth - about 2 cents)
> Jerry Bidle
>From my ear to the ground on ultralighting, I have the impression
that carb ice in a rotax is very rare. I've only seen reference to it
happening in a different sense, that is, when it is so darn cold that
ice crystals have already formed in the air. (Wisconsin hardcore flyers)
Even in this case the ice doesn't clog up the carb intake, but instead
sandblasts and ruins the pistons.
It makes sense, to me anyway, that there is something about the fuel-oil
coating the carb, and the 2-stroke's standing back-pressure wave of
fuel vapor that helps reduce the problem. I'm not saying traditional
carb ice can't happen, but in looking for a cause of trouble, I'd look
at a lot of other possibilities first.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | propwash <propwash(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop for a Firefly with Rotax 447? |
jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
>
> I think your best source for this question is Dennis at Kolb. There
> seems to be some differences in 2 blade and 3 blade, which engine,
> and distance the blade is behind the wing. They learned that a spacer
> may be used to get clean air to the prop. I don't have it all down
> well enough to quote it back but all those factors can into play when
> I had talked to him one time.
>
> Hey Dennis why not write up a paragraph on this.
>
>
> Jerry Bidle
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Prop for a Firefly with Rotax 447?
> Author: murnyack(at)csrlink.net at MAILGATE
> Date: 6/4/97 11:11 AM
>
> Hello:
>
> I'm going to be building a Firefly with a Rotax 447 (with help from
> Kolb's quickbuild option). I was wondering what propeller would be the
> best choice for this setup? I like composites and the idea of
> adjustable blade pitch. But, what manufacturer seems to have the best
> product? Two blade or three blade? Do any of you guys and gals have
> experience with the Firefly/Rotax 447 setup?
>
> Later...
>
> Stephen
>
Our Firefly came with a 66x30 wood and it worked great,on 447.
Now have Ivo,,so a almost new,not a mark, is for sale. 100.00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | B gear box plug problem |
To All,
Boy! I have done it now. At 10 hours you are supposed to change the gear
box oil. I spent about 2 hours trying with every tool I had to remove the
darn plug. All I have done is just about ruin the plug by stripping off
most of the corners. It does unscrew counter clockwise doesn't it???
Anybody got any ideas???
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (4.7 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gb.eaa-cfi(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | gb.eaa-cfi(at)juno.com: Handheld Wanted |
I'm looking for a good reasonably priced handheld transceiver with a jack
for push to talk. Something in the $200 - $300 range
I specifically would like a IC-A20, but will listen to anything.
If I can't find a used one soon I'll be forced to buy "new".
George P. Bindl May blue skies, tail winds, lift, and the memories of
our aviation pioneers always be with you !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: That guy who has an extra Garmin38 |
A while back I asked the group for info about a Garmin 38 and someone offered
to sell me a used one. I was interested in buying it and sent a reply but no
one responded. If you're still out there please contact me. I'm
GeoR38(at)aol.com.
I'm on vacation next week and won't be available but please E-mail me or
contact me on this newsgroup cause I'm tired of getting lost in my great
Firestar!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop for a Firefly with Rotax 447? |
Murnyack) writes:
<< But, what manufacturer seems to have the best
product? Two blade or three blade? Do any of you guys and gals have
experience with the Firefly/Rotax 447 setup? >>
I started out with the standard 2 blade wood prop that comes with the
Firestar kit and was totally impressed with the climb even with big fat me in
it (I never thought I would utter such words about my formerly skinny self).
Anyway a big wind came along last year and flipped old ByGeorge over and
broke her wonderful wood prop forcing me to get another. Dennis talked me
into IVO 3 blade shorter diameter and he was right, it is smoother, but
doesn't seem to provide that wild Kolb climb of yesterday. My Ivo is
adjustable and I love it too but I still yearn for the 6:" bigger wood prop.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B gear box plug problem |
>To All,
>
>Boy! I have done it now. At 10 hours you are supposed to change the gear
>box oil. I spent about 2 hours trying with every tool I had to remove the
>darn plug. All I have done is just about ruin the plug by stripping off
>most of the corners. It does unscrew counter clockwise doesn't it???
>Anybody got any ideas???
>
>Later,
>
>
>
>
>--
>Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (4.7 hrs)
>(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
> Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
>
> Unless someone knows a by-the-book answer, I would guess you need to
heat the gearbox up. Aluminum expands faster than steel and that should ease
things up a bit.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: Antenna Location |
For Com frequencies I have not seen much difference in length affecting the
output power as long as a good coax cable and proper impedance are used.
Transponders are another thing due to the frequency they operate at. I
have seen the distance affect the operation of a Terra. There are
different impedance coax cable, have you used the correct one, 50 ohms.
For longer distances foam dielectric core (inner insulation) has less loss
than a solid dielectric. Don't use CATV (cable television or TV antenna
coax) cable, it is 75 ohm. Note there are some 53 ohm cables out there to.
While not designed for the aircraft frequency range, I seen a few people
use Ethernet coax for their NAV/COMs. They get out fine. Oh, coax isn't
coax, it is actually designed for particular areas of operation. I was
involved with a in-depth discussion with engineers from Belden Cable. I
learned a lot.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Antenna Location
Date: 6/5/97 10:06 PM
Jim Baker wrote:
>
> Lots of db loss running this much cable to a passive antenna. Much
> better to do it out of the floor pan with a short run. See below:
>
> Cliff,
>
> Made an antenna on the cheap. All you need is 25 in of stainless or
> plain old music wire (hobby shop stuff) 1/16" dia. Go to Radio Shack
> and get a panel mount BNC connector ( the one with threaded portion),
> some RG-58 cable and a couple of twist on BNC male connectors.
>
> I already had an aluminum floor in the FS2 (built-in ground plane) and
> so drilled an appropriate hole in the floor pan and just poked the
> antenna wire thru the fabric when mounting it. I also super glued a
> small nylon washer to the fabric by slipping it over the wire....keeps
> the fabric from being damaged. Because of the ground clearance, mine
> is bent back at a 45 degree angle.
>
> Works great with my Bendix King KLX 100. No noise at all from
> ignition and while flying to Lake Texhoma last Sunday. Talked to Altus
> AFB approach control from adjacent Ardmore (3000 ft). What a deal.
>
> > From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
> > To: Russell Duffy
> > Cc: Kolb list
> > Subject: Re: Antenna Location
>
> > Russell Duffy wrote:
> > >
> > > > My radio is still not transmitting well. I need to establish a better
> > > > ground plane and get a whip. I have heard of someone using aluminum
foil.
> > >
> > > What about mounting a short antenna pointing down from the floor-pan? On
the
> > > SS this looks like a good option but the SS is quite a bit higher than the
> > > other models. This would give you the best ground plane available, some
> > > shielding from the engine, and an unobstructed view of the other radios
you're
> > > talking to.
> > >
> > > BTW- I loved the report as usual Cliff.
> > >
> > > Rusty
> >
> >
> > Has anybody ever tried running your coax out through the tail boom and
> > mounting it just in front of the rudder using some tubing braces to hold
> > it up parallel with the rudder?
> >
> > Larry
> >
> > I really don't know anything about aircraft radios, but with all
antennas that I have seen the antenna has to be matched with the correct
length of coax or you have a impedence mismatch that is not good. In
other words you can't whack off the extra coax on a CB and expect to have
anything. As for ground plane- if you mount to the belly pan of the
aircraft then you efectively place the largest area of your ground to the
rear of the craft, since the shape and area of the ground plane
determines to a large extent where your power or voice will be radiated.
In other words in a car with the antenna mounted on the passenger fron
fender your greatest range would be in the drection of the drivers rear
fender. If you mount the antenna on the tail boom then yur ground plane
radiates to the front using all the aircrafts metal framework as a ground
plane. I am also not too sure what the effect of the extra coax wrapped
up in a coil does either. Any way- food for thought.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B gear box plug problem |
Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote:
>
> To All,
>
> Boy! I have done it now. At 10 hours you are supposed to change the gear
> box oil. I spent about 2 hours trying with every tool I had to remove the
> darn plug. All I have done is just about ruin the plug by stripping off
> most of the corners. It does unscrew counter clockwise doesn't it???
> Anybody got any ideas???
>
> Later,
>
> --
> Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (4.7 hrs)
> (972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
> Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Boy do I ever feel better, sorry but I thought that I was the only one
that it ever happened to. The very same thing happened to me when I tried
to change the oil at 10 hours. I had it so rounded off that I had to file
flat spots on it to get a grip. What finally helped was out of
desperation and frustration, I too a drift pin and placed it on the pl;ug
as best as I could and hit the pin with a hammer. It came off so easy
that it was scary. It kinda needs to be woken up. Oh- new plugs are about
10.50 or so.
Been there - done that.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: rpm drop |
Sandro Bastien wrote:
>
> An other suggestion about your rpm drop...........
>
> on my mark II i had problem with the idle after a main jet replacement:
>
> The fuel level in the carb boal was not always the same, I did readjust a
> few time during the same afternoon with a run up after each adjustement,
> until I find the cause of my
> probleme....................................................................
> ................................
>
> Each time I was replacing the carb. lower part I did a run up, but
> sometime I had carb. overflow and sometime the fuel level was too
> low-------------------------> the prolem was-------> the little plastic
> screen around the main jet was deformed and when I reinstalled the lower
> part of carb.... sometime it gave restriction to the lever for the inlet
> needle---->overflow----->or level too high then engine too rich then poor
> idle.
>
> At other rpm the engine worked well. Since I found the problem I take
> care to position the little screen in the bottom of the bowl and raise the
> bowl slowly to the carb. If I'm not 200% sure I do this procedure again.
>
> Good luck ....................sbastien(at)dsuper.net
Thanks very much for the above tip. Mine had been doing the dropping rpm
thing at idle. I checked it today and found that the screen was indeed
deformed. I straightened it out as best as I could and it did definately
run better and seemed to want to stay at the 2100 rpms at idle.
Thanks again
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sandro Bastien" <sbastien(at)dsuper.net> |
Hello les petits amis,
On my MK2 I don't have any fuel bulb-- then no worry about that ""problem""
(for some). I have a primer and that is it. When I want to start the
engine (summer 24 deg. celcius to winter -20 deg. cel), all I do Is 2 shot
of primer then pull the rope. If it didn't start then prime 1 again, once
it started(rough idle because low fuel in bowl) I prime slowly until the
idle is O.K. (from the start it is 5-6 primer shot max).
That is it and no problem, even no choke installed, no starter , no
silencer, no carb heat.
The only extra installed are EGT, Voltage regulator, Strobe light and a
landing light ( for security and visibility), intercom(because we fly two
parters 95% of the time)
I have 5 instruments in cockpit Altitude,Airspeed,EGT,Hourmeter, RPM
If you like a lot of instrument the buy a cessna 150 it is cheaper.
Keep it Simple ----> nothing to worry.................sbastien(at)dsuper.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
To anyone looking to buy a Garmin 38, try a fishing
or sporting goods supplier like Cabela's. They
are marketed to fishermen and hickers. Cabela's
has them for $138.99 and their number is:
1-800-237-4444
Or if you prefer shopping on the web, try
Garmin dealer, L.W. James on-line catalog at
http://www.sni.net/~lwjames/GGPS.html
He sells the 38 for $149.
John Jung Firestar 377 Garmin 12XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anthony Hinkelmann" <hink(at)mindspring.com> |
Need a prop for my FS2/ Phoenix. Had a iov 3 blade, now an ivo 1 blade.
Since I will have to buy 2 blades, I am considering just using 2 blades.
On the ivo with 2 blades the blades are longer, Correct? The
instructions say you can run with two blades with a spare, but the three
bladed prop is shorter so you would have to crank in more pitch. Smaller
diameter, more pitch in the path of more disturbed air. Something tells me
I should go with a 2 blade longer prop.
Has anyone used any of the above configurations?
On another note, The bypass for the fuel bulb and the bulb can be ran
through the bottom of the seat. In this way if your engine quits and you
want to try a in-flight emergency restart, the bulb will have one hell of a
squeeze put on it and you can keep your hands on the controls and FLY THE
PLANE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Mattsen <dmattsen(at)isd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: B gear box plug problem |
Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote:
> To All,
> Boy! I have done it now. At 10 hours you are supposed to change the gear
> box oil. I spent about 2 hours trying with every tool I had to remove the
> darn plug. All I have done is just about ruin the plug by stripping off
> most of the corners. It does unscrew counter clockwise doesn't it???
> Anybody got any ideas???
Over the years Ive had to remove no less than 5 of these rounded off
drain plugs on various customers machines.
Most recently a stubborn one on a Firestar II with an R447B powerplant.
On this one the engine had to be tilted significantly. This involved
removing or relieving tension on fuel pump lines, engine cables, wiring
etc. Then removing the two rear mounting bolts and loosening the front
mounting bolts, tilting the engine assembly up and forward, using a wood
block to hold it there. All this was done to merely gain a straight
in-line access to the plug head.
I then used a good quality 6 point socket and tapped it over the damaged
area of the plug. I have a large selection of English and Metric
sockets, including impact sockets normally used with air tools. Ive
always been able to find a socket that doesnt quite fit over the plug,
then somewhat gently, I tap it on the nearly rounded plug head. As
Larry Cottrell had mentioned, the rap or tap from a hammer tends to help
loosen it. Once a good fit is obtained it seems to take very little
pressure with the socket wrench to turn the plug.
Hope the info helps.
DAN
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* * *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William H Hatfield <hatfield(at)tsixroads.com> |
I need a GPS with a data base. Dosen't have to have everything but one
I can use with Cessna 172 and Ultralight. Must show all controlled
airspace and restricted areas. E-mail me or call Bill at 601-728-3366.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sandro Bastien" <sbastien(at)dsuper.net> |
| Subject: | oil in two cycle |
Oil in two cycle
If you change oil brand all the time it may not be a good idea , they
say that some additive are not compatible from a brand to another
(sometime) and some people had engine failure for that reason
keep the same oil if possible. I use AMSOIL 100:1 at 70:1 ratio and i am
happy(synthetic oil at 12.00$ can per liter--> expensive but it should be
better----> we will see.
Have fun..............sbastien(at)dsuper.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
| Subject: | Jon Stiegers wing angle of attack & other stuff |
Jon ,, About your wing angle of attack,, Congratulations on your flight, .
I flew with Dan at the Kolb factory last year in the MK_3, & I remember
commenting to Dan about the view towards the wing tip ,It seemed we were
always climbing . Dan said it was normal to look that way & I also noticed
that the only time the wing was level with the horizon was during the
descent to landing . The impending stall you think you experienced may not
have been the case at all . I would question Dennis or someone to see what
they say about it . In level flight my MK_3 wings look like the factory`s
angle of attack .
Concerning my 503`s occasional drop in rpm`s from 2000 to 16 to 1700
rpm at idle,, I`ve gotten alot of good input from everyone,, I`ve adjusted
& tweaked here & there & will fly again tommorw. I`ll let the group Know
about the fix as soon as it`s discovered.
Jon ,,,,, I plan on flying into DART on the 15th,, however it won`t be in
my Kolb plane, as I don`t have my 40 hrs requirement in yet. I will be in a
blue & white warrior N31082 Hopefully landing
about 10 am. [ I`ll have on my new Kolb T -shirt]
Later Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Stiegers wing angle of attack & other stuff |
22>
>Jon ,, About your wing angle of attack,, Congratulations on your flight, .
>I flew with Dan at the Kolb factory last year in the MK_3, & I remember
>commenting to Dan about the view towards the wing tip ,It seemed we were
>always climbing . Dan said it was normal to look that way & I also noticed
>that the only time the wing was level with the horizon was during the
>descent to landing . The impending stall you think you experienced may not
>have been the case at all . I would question Dennis or someone to see what
>they say about it . In level flight my MK_3 wings look like the factory`s
>angle of attack .
Hmmm... So the wings might not be level in level flight, eh? I'll
have to look for that the next time I go up. Do you happen to know if
the tail boom is supposed to be horizontal? If so, I could put the tail
up on some blocks or something to get an idea of what the wing will
look like in level flight...
[...]
>
>Jon ,,,,, I plan on flying into DART on the 15th,, however it won`t be in
>my Kolb plane, as I don`t have my 40 hrs requirement in yet. I will be in a
>blue & white warrior N31082 Hopefully landing
>
Hey, great! :) Too bad you won't be able to bring your Kolb, but
I'm glad to hear you're coming! (For those who don't know what we're
talking about, Dart airport is having an ultralight fly-in on June
14-15.) Lots of people have shown interest, and it should be an excellent
time! :) Theres some more info about it on my home page at:
http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/WWW/ULTRA/events_USA.html
Anyone else in the Western NY area planning to come? (Dart is
in Mayville, NY)
>
>about 10 am. [ I`ll have on my new Kolb T -shirt]
>
I'll be there! :) I'm not sure what I'll be wearing; usually
its a denim jacket with EAA, USUA, and Oshkosh patches on it. If the
weather is nice, I'll be trailering my FireFly down; black Dodge Dakota,
very large white trailer. My FF is grey and orange. Hopefully the
weather will cooperate! :)
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello All!
I am looking for some of the contacts I use to know about a year ago.
At that time I was looking and calling everyone I could for information
on the Kolb Flyer I am building.
I had to go into the VA Hospital to take care of my Lukema and at the
time I didn't know if I would ever make it out.
After 13 months of treatments, I am now out, in remission and now want
to get re-started on my flyer!
If any of you out there are some of the people I talked with or wrote
to, will you please E-Mail me or call and let me know? My memory is not
what it use to be and I can't find my list of contacts.
Thank You for your time-
Randall E. Cook, Sr.
Box 001
Askov, MN 55704
(320) 838-3728
rcook@tech-center.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William H Hatfield <hatfield(at)tsixroads.com> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: GPS Wanted] |
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 1997 12:27:04 -0500
From: William H Hatfield <hatfield(at)tsixroads.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: GPS Wanted
I need a GPS with a data base. Dosen't have to have everything but one
I can use with Cessna 172 and Ultralight. Must show all controlled
airspace and restricted areas. E-mail me or call Bill at 601-728-3366.
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello All!
I am looking for some of the contacts I use to know about a year
ago.
At that time I was looking and calling everyone I could for
information
on the Kolb Flyer I am building.
I had to go into the VA Hospital to take care of my Lukema and
at the
time I didn't know if I would ever make it out.
After 13 months of treatments, I am now out, in remission and
now want
to get re-started on my flyer!
If any of you out there are some of the people I talked with or
wrote
to, will you please E-Mail me or call and let me know? My memory is not
what it use to be and I can't find my list of contacts.
Thank You for your time-
Randall E. Cook, Sr.
Box 001
Askov, MN 55704
(320) 838-3728
rcook@tech-center.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
Short note about 2 cycle oils: Several years ago I was using Pennsoil
(still am) and my tank was running low and a friend offerred some gas that
was mixed with Duralube. Upon putting it in the tank a problem occurred
within 10-15 minutes. The oils were not compatable and one (or both)
clumped into little white balls. Didn't try to use it as I was sure that
it would not provide the lubrication needed, plus was worried about it in
the fuel lines.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed & Kathy Lubitz" <elubitz(at)ionline.net> |
| Subject: | ice sand blasting |
elubitz(at)ionline.net
http://www.ionline.net/~elubitz
Hi;
The idea of ice crystals sand blasting a piston has always seemed a little
bit of a reach. Ice melts at 32 and the piston is around a 1000. How long
do you think the crystal will last pressed against the side of the piston?
A more likely theory seems to be that at very cold temperatures the oil
condensates out of the fuel mixture and is carried into the combustion
chamber as a discreate droplets and thus does not provide adequate
lubrication for the piston in the area next to the intake. Then when the
piston gets hot enough it is scored in the area where it is not getting
proper lubrication.
If this theory is correct then perhaps preheating the incoming air would be
more beneficial to the lubrication of the engine than the removal of any
ice. It would also aid in the evaporation of the fuel into the air.
Two cycle engines do not appear to require carb heat as the velocity
through the carb is much higher and there is no venturie with its
temerature drop followed by a large reduction of air velocity as the cool
air exits the restriction.
I have often questioned just what the small carb heaters were actually
doing as they do not seem powerful enough to supply any heat to the volume
of air as it moves through the carb.
Ed Lubitz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Terrible. They have high rate of climb and good cruise. You'll just
hate it.
Seriously, I have a friend with FSI using the 377. He himself is a
big person topping the scales at the 300# maybe plus mark. His gets
off very very well and climbs like crazy on HOT Texas days. Operates
out of a short field. Believe me you will not be disappointed. Of
course, you can have 503 or 582 but you now offsetting extra weight
you are, the 503 might take you on climb competition, but you'll beat
them on the endurance side. The drag of the airframe pretty wells
sets the airspeed, takes a lot of power to make much difference.
If the price is right for that engine buy it. Check on parts
availability on the engine with a Rotax knowledgeable person, some one
you can trust, not one that's trying to sell you an engine.
I know he bought another used 377 engine because it was a good deal
plus he felt it was the best engine. He seems very happy with it. He
also works on engines so having the parts (another ready to go engine)
on hand is handy.
got a sweet combination. Run that engine until it's dead then move up
to 477 or 503 if you want. The selling price should reflect the
engine on it and it's condition.
I wouldn't have a problem at all with it.
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: 377 Firefly
Date: 6/6/97 8:44 AM
I'm looking into buying a used Firefly with a 377 and need just bit of
help from you. I realize that most of you guys have 503s and 582s, but
the earlier Kolbs had smaller engines. I'm sure they changed to more
power for a reason, but does anyone know how they performed with the
377? I've flown a friend's MXL with a 377 and it flew pretty well, and
of course there are all the older planes (and now newer ones) with the
Cuyuna 430.
Thanks for anything you can offer,
Ron Carroll, Independence, Oregon (7S5)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Wanted |
I'm looking for a good reasonably priced handheld transciever with a jack
for push to talk. Sonethging in the $200 - $300 range
I specifically would like a IC-A20, but will listan to anything.
If I can't find a used one soon I'll be forced to buy "new".
George P. Bindl May blue skies, tail winds, lift, and the memories of
our aviation pioneers always be with you !!
Doug Prange
evoice(at)acton.com
--------- End forwarded message ----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Wanted |
Don't have one to sell you but have some input. Note, this reply is a
bit long but addresses my experience with a few different units and
some available accessories which can save you a few bucks (magic words
to ULrs).
Myself I am very unhappy with ICOM 22A, the unit their now selling.
Two friends have them.
While there very small, not sure if they have further reduced the
speaker size or what, but I myself have a hard time hearing and
understanding the com. The other thing I do not like about them is
they have two knobs on top, one you can adjust the frequency (also
supports key pad entry). It turns very easy and because there very
close together, it's easy to bump it off frequency or get the wrong
knob when adjusting squelch or volume.
I like the ICOM 20 or 21, but they can keep the 22 as far as I am
concerned. The 20 & 21 have a nice feature which allows you to
operate it from a power source with the battery off. Doesn't take up
much space that way. They work very well. Just had another friend
buy one like new at Sun&Fun. It sounded great and works great. I
believe the difference between the 20 & 21 is the weather channels, I
think both have VOR which I have found handy once in a while and maybe
a couple different features with VOR. I don't need a CDI, just give
me a solid numeric course heading, that's all I found I need. If your
off course it changes, same as GPS.
I myself an going to try to find a used 20 or 21 for my UL. I like
the ability to put it on instrument panel without the battery. I have
a King KX99 hand held, can't do that with it. Have had it 7 years.
Its been a good reliable unit. Just had to replace the battery this
last fall. Not bad, over 6 years, better than average I would say.
(I all ways run it all the way down by leaving it turned on every two
to three charges.) The unit has one thing I find a little
inconvenient. It's external DC power input is a trickle charge to the
unit. If you happen to have a lot of com activity (RX) it can
actually discharge faster than it charges. I really haven't had any
problem flying with it but it doesn't make it totally independently
external powered. I talked to King directly about it, that's how I
know. As a hand held backup unit would I buy another King, you bet.
But for external powered panel mounted application, the older ICOM 20
or 21 work the best.
My 2 cents in the integrated COM/GPS units. The Coms are fairly
stable, not much change however the GPSP side of the house is
constantly changing features and so forth. A GPS becomes obsolete
much faster. Because of this you'll probably see the resale value of
such integrated units fall very rapidly. It probably better to have
separate units. Also if one craps outs, you still the other while
it's off for several weeks being repaired.
When it comes to batteries don't buy them from the avionics radio
shops. There are a couple outfits that sell the batteries for the
radios. Example, they sell the same exact battery King sells for $75
them for thru Trade-A-Plane. There's also a place in NY which sells
chargers that you can leave the radio in the charger and not worry
about over charging it. The receptacle cups can be changed on the
base charger so you can use it on different radios including cellular
phones, there quick to switch out. They also sell the batteries.
Don't have there name with me but if your interested shoot me an
email, I forward it to you.
Happy flying,
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Handheld Wanted
Date: 6/6/97 9:03 AM
I'm looking for a good reasonably priced handheld transciever with a jack
for push to talk. Sonethging in the $200 - $300 range
I specifically would like a IC-A20, but will listan to anything.
If I can't find a used one soon I'll be forced to buy "new".
George P. Bindl May blue skies, tail winds, lift, and the memories of
our aviation pioneers always be with you !!
Doug Prange
evoice(at)acton.com
--------- End forwarded message ----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Wing angle of attack |
On page 41 of the MKIII illustration manual (yellow book) "CG
Calculation Information" it shows that you check the weight and balence with
the wing at a 9 degree angle of attack. That seems to be just what the thing
flies at too. Never had an airplane fly that way before, looks draggy, but
that's just the way it is. Tried changing the engine thrust angle to get the
wing flying at a lesser angle of attack, it increased the cruise speed, but
screwed up the rate of climb. Tried drooping the ailerons and flaps to "push
it over" but it just made it feel nose heavier and also hurt the rate of climb.
Talked to the chief designer of a competitor's company whose product
has an airfoil virtually identical to the MKIII, and a slightly larger wing,
and he confirmed that "that's the way it is" with this airfoil. He did say
that as wing loading goes down, the angle of attack will also. Build light.
Talked to the chief designer of a different company whose aircraft
has a quite different airfoil, and he opined that the Kolb's odd flat bottom
airfoil gives it that great climb, but holds it back a bit in cruise.
Life is choices.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops0
________________________________________________________________________________
Jim , kolb(at)intrig.com,
tparadis(at)pop400.gsfc.nasa.gov
| From: | The PROBE <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Cloud Suck(-an event,not a judgement) |
--=====================_865957787==_
In reference to the information forwarded
from the Hang Glider List,
see also text attached from :
http://www.aero.com/publications/parachutes/9610/pc1096.htm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Hang Gliding Magazine: June 1997
<< Mike Vorhis and myself have an article on
Cloud Suck with an interview of someone who got sucked in and spit out
12,000 feet later. Russ Brown, Gilbert Griffith and Roy Mahoney also
contribute to the article. read it, it is a good read. >>
Jim-
Great article! I had thought flying into clouds was cool- now I know it
sucks. Keep up the good work!
-Paul C
P>S> that article may have prevented me from launching today in probable
pre-suck to suck conditions. While I wanted to fly, turns out to be good I
didn't. Quick OD, hail, rain, etc. Even a tornado not too far away.
--=====================_865957787==_
Wonderous Devices
A Frightening Parachute Ride
by Jim Bates
The U.S. Air Force song says, in part, "Off we go, into the wild blue yonder,..."
Despite that "wild" warning in the beginning of a spirited exaltation to the
joys of flight, confident
pilots often become forgetful that it might be nice weather when a flight starts
but it's quite possible for
aviators to experience first-hand how wild that blue yonder can easily and quickly
become.
Here's the tale-of a naval pilot who discovered the extent of that wildness.
In May 1960, while flying in formation with another pilot, our discoverer bailed
out of a powerless
F8U at 47,000 feet while on a VFR (visual flight rules) journey from Massachusetts
to North Carolina. His
unanticipated problems started while the two planes were passing over a thunderstorm
and his plane's
engine made odd noises and a fire warning light came on.
He took hurried corrective actions, but nothing worked. Abruptly he was without
power controls and
the stick was locked in neutral position. He hastily decided to eject rather than
stay with the plane that had
started an uncontrollable plunge toward the raging storm below.
Later reports estimated the thunderstorm to be some hundred miles in diameter.
His indicated
airspeed at ejection was 210 knots (241.5 miles per hour).
The "wild blue yonder" gave him a frightening experience of a nine-mile descent,
lasting more than
thirty minutes - an ordeal that he fortunately survived - during which his parachute
equipment did not
fail, though it had been subjected to extraordinary stresses. Parts of his incredible
adventure are given here
in his words, garnered from statements in an official U.S. Navy investigation.
* * *
"My first sensation was one of severe cold and extreme expansion, as if I were
about to explode. The
cold rapidly changed to a burning, tingling sensation. I felt as if millions of
pins were sticking in me. I
sensed that I was tumbling and spinning like a cartwheel. My arms and legs were
out and I could not get
them in.
"In a matter of seconds I realized I had retained my helmet and mask but no
longer had my visor
although I had been flying with it down because of the bright sunlight and reflection
from the top of the
clouds. I believe it was torn away on ejection.
"I opened my eyes and saw I was entering wispy clouds. I was going into the
tops of the fleecy
overcast that I had flown through just a few minutes before. I seem to remember
saying to myself, 'Well,
you're entering it and it's about 44,000 feet.' About this time I managed to get
my arms into my body.
"I looked down and noticed that I was absolutely forcing my torso harness.
It looked like it was going
to burst. My stomach popped out under my life vest as though I were pregnant.
"I had the feeling that I fell and fell and fell and fell for an eternity.
My oxygen mask was beating
against my face. I held my mask with my right hand. I put my left hand on my helmet
which was pulling
on the chin strap as if it was going to go off. My left hand was very cold and
numb - it felt like somebody
else's hand, not mine.
"Some time during the free fall, my right glove got in my way. It inflated
like a balloon so I let it go -
just jettisoned it. I remember seeing it go off and I thought 'Why did I throw
the glove away?'
"During the free fall I had the feeling of not being able to exhale; in fact,
I seemed to have to work
very hard to be able to exhale, but all I had to do was open my mouth and in-rushing
air just seemed to fill
my lungs. At this time it was getting a bit darker in the cloud.
"I had an urge to open the parachute but I told myself I was still far too
high and if I did I would
either freeze to death or die from lack of oxygen. I still had this tingling sensation
but I sort of had the
feeling that I was slowing down and falling into denser atmosphere and I seemed
to be getting a little
warmer.
"I was still in the free fall and thinking about opening the chute. It was
quite dark but I don't recall
any great moisture or any great violence. It seems like while I was thinking about
opening the chute, all of
a sudden there was a terrific jolt and I knew the chute had opened. I looked up
but by this time I was in
such a dense, dark cloud that I couldn't even see my canopy. I reached up and got
hold of the risers and
gave them tugs on both sides; it felt like I had a good chute.
<dd>"From here on, my memory of what happened seems much better. I now clearly
recall running out of
oxygen, having the mask collapse against my face, and I believe I disconnected
it from the right side as I
always do. At about this time I thought I definitely had it made and was going
to survive. However, I
noticed I was still bleeding from the nose, my right hand was cut, and my left
hand was frozen numb, but
the pressure was going and I was much more comfortable. Then the turbulence started
and I realized I was
entering the thunderstorm.
"As the turbulence started, I was pelted all over by hail. Then I fell a little
bit more and I seemed to
be caught in a violent updraft. I had the feeling that I was being tossed around
- that I was actually going
around in a loop and I was looping over my canopy like being on the end of a centrifuge.
I got sick in the
turbulence and heaved.
"Sometimes I could see the canopy and sometimes I couldn't. The tossing and
the turbulence was so
violent it is difficult to describe. I went up and down - I was buffeted about
in all directions - at times it
felt like I was going sideways. One time I hit a very rough blast of air - I went
soaring back up and got in
a very severe hailstorm. I remember the hail beating down on my helmet. I had the
feeling it would tear
my canopy up. The next thing I knew I was in rain so heavy I felt like I was standing
under a waterfall. I
had my mask loose and the water was so great that when I tried to inhale I got
water with the air like I
was swimming. It seems to me that some time in the storm I noticed my watch and
was surprised that it
had stayed with me. I'm not sure but I think I was able to tell the time by the
luminous dial - I believe it
was around 1815.
"At one time during an up or down draft, the parachute canopy collapsed and
came down over me
like a big sheet. I could see my legs in the shroud lines. This gave me some concern
- I thought maybe the
chute wouldn't blossom again properly and since the hail seemed to be larger now
I was afraid it might
damage the canopy and put holes in it. I fell and the canopy blossomed again. I
felt the risers and
everything seemed all right.
"At this time I looked down and saw what appeared to be a big black elevator
shaft. Then I felt like I
had been hit by a blast of compressed air and I went soaring back up again - up
and down - sideways.
How much of this soaring went on I don't know. I had the feeling that if it went
on much longer I was not
going to maintain consciousness. I was being tossed around and beaten around and
I wasn't quite sure how
much more I could take.
"The violence was so great that I thought that if it doesn't stop soon, my
gear will come apart - and
my straps will break - I will come apart. Stretching - twisting - slamming - the
turbulence of this
thunderstorm was so violent I have nothing to compare it with. I became quite airsick
and I had
considerable vertigo. Again I had the feeling that I couldn't take much more of
this but if I could only hold
out a little while longer, I would be falling out of the roughest part of the storm.
"The lightning was so severe that I kept my eyes closed most of the time. Even
with my eyelids
closed, there was a blinding reddish-white light when the lightning flashed. I
felt rather than heard the
thunder; it just about burst my eardrums. As I recall, I had the feeling that I
was in the upper part of the
storm because the lightning seemed to be just flashes. As I descended, I seemed
to see big red streaks
heading towards the earth. All of a sudden I realized it was getting a little calmer
and I was probably
descending below the storm. The turbulence grew less, then ceased and I realized
I was below the storm.
The rain continued, the air was smooth, and I started thinking about my landing.
"By now my shoulders and legs hurt pretty badly. I checked myself over again
and thought I was
O.K. I kept looking down and said to myself 'Under the storm you probably won't
have more than three
hundred feet.' It was just like breaking out when you're making a GCA [ground controlled
approach]. The
first thing I saw was green and then I was able to see trees and then I knew I
was very close to the
deck.
"I remember seeing a field off in the distance and I thought there must be
people nearby. As I got
close to the trees I suddenly realized there was a surface wind and I was being
carried horizontally over
the ground quite rapidly - maybe 25 knots. I oscillated about three times, then
went into the trees. It
seemed that my chute fouled in two pine trees and I continued in a horizontal position
with the wind, then
swung back to the left. I came crashing back through the trees like a pendulum
and hit a large tree with
my left side. My head, face, and shoulder took most of the blow. My helmet was
knocked crooked but I
think it did a great deal to save me here. The blow was so violent that it twisted
my helmet back on the
right side and pulled the chin strap so tight over my Adam's apple under my chin
that I had to loosen it
when I got on the ground. Anyway, I came down with a crash. I slid down and landed
on my side. I was
cold and stunned but still conscious. At first I thought I had broken something
and was paralyzed. Pretty
soon, however, I was able to move my head and then my arms. I checked the time;
it was between 1840
and 1845."
The pilot's report went on to detail that he wasn't yet out of trouble. It
was still daylight but dimming
quickly, and raining heavily. The physically battered and stunned pilot struggled
out of the tangle of
canopy, suspension lines, and harness webbing. He wanted desperately to get out
of the woods before dark,
but he was confused about what direction to go. Momentary panic worsened the confusion
but he forced
himself to think rationally.
He then quickly recalled training in making square search patterns. In the
rainy darkness he saw a
freshly cut tree stump, then another, and another, then several more. He figured
that a logging operation
of this size meant there would a logging road also. That road would be the objective
of his square search
pattern.
On the third leg of the square pattern he found the road. In the increasing
darkness and steady rain
he followed the dirt road until he came to a farm field and across the field he
saw automobile headlights of
several cars moving along a road. He wearily plodded through the muddy field until
he reached a paved
two-lane secondary road. Bedraggled, he stood on the edge of the road and tried
to flag down a passing
car. He got annoyed, then angry, that by his count fifteen cars went by without
stopping to help.
His statement went on to read: "I must have looked like something real unusual
- all wet and
bleeding and standing out there in my flight suit in the dark and the rain. I guess
they figured I was
drunk.
But suddenly he got a break: "Then after all these other cars had kept on going,
a car came by and I
thought I heard a boy say, 'There's a pilot, daddy."'
The car kept going into the rainy darkness, but then slowed, turned around,
and came back to the
exhausted, hurt roadside figure. The aviator's ordeal was done. He recovered from
his injuries flew again
for many years.
The U.S. Navy's Approach magazine, produced for naval and marine corps flight
crew members,
included the pilot's amazing flight experience in an issue published soon after
the official investigation
had been completed.
The "wild blue yonder" had been bested and another flyer's life was saved with
a parachute.
The author can be contacted via e-mail: ParaHistry(at)aol.com
Copyright (c) 1995 Aero.com. All rights reserved.
We want to hear from you!
This section is meant as an educational tool. If there are any topics of interest
you wish to
see here or are learning in school/college or wish to comment on the content please
email
either the author, Jim Bates, or Aero.com with your input.
Parachutes
Home
--=====================_865957787==_--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FS 2 Aileron Flutter |
My flying partner was on a steep approach yesterday evening (AIS=70 to 73
mph) when he felt the beginnings of a full blown aileron flutter. He has
many spam can hours and I respect his conclusion that it was a true flutter
condition. He now wants to add counterweights etc to prevent any future
occurances. I would like to know if others have had this problem and what
their solution was. The plane is powered by a 503 dcdcdi and is within the
design weight. He is a 230 pounder and the fuel load was probably 20 Lbs.
We will appreciate any constructive responses.. Duane Mitchell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: FS 2 Aileron Flutter |
>My flying partner was on a steep approach yesterday evening (AIS=70 to 73
>mph) when he felt the beginnings of a full blown aileron flutter. He has
>many spam can hours and I respect his conclusion that it was a true flutter
>condition. He now wants to add counterweights etc to prevent any future
>occurances. I would like to know if others have had this problem and what
>their solution was. The plane is powered by a 503 dcdcdi and is within the
>design weight. He is a 230 pounder and the fuel load was probably 20 Lbs.
> We will appreciate any constructive responses.. Duane Mitchell
>
>
My Mark111 had aileron flutter on several occasions. I contacted Kolb about
it and they sold me an aileron balancing kit -------- problem solved!
The kit cost me $25.00 about a year ago. The balancers install onto the end
of the ailerons. I installed an additional four inches of hinge onto the
end of the ailerons just to give the aileron extra support.
Now I have a question for the Kolb world. Has anyone installed "spades" on
the end of the balancing arms to improve roll rate? I feel that my setup is
sturdy enough as I have added additional hinges to the ends of my ailerons.
A few complaints have surfaced about Kolb's slow roll rate and I feel that
this may solve the problem or------- add a new unforeseen one. What do
you all think?
Kim (BKS)
Saskatchewan Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FS 2 Aileron Flutter |
>My flying partner was on a steep approach yesterday evening (AIS=70 to 73
>mph) when he felt the beginnings of a full blown aileron flutter. He has
>many spam can hours and I respect his conclusion that it was a true flutter
>condition. He now wants to add counterweights etc to prevent any future
>occurances. I would like to know if others have had this problem and what
>their solution was. The plane is powered by a 503 dcdcdi and is within the
>design weight. He is a 230 pounder and the fuel load was probably 20 Lbs.
> We will appreciate any constructive responses.. Duane Mitchell
>
> The outboard end of the MKIII ailerons has a certain flexibility of
movement that probably contributes to aileron flutter. I cured mine by using
4 of the stainless steel hinges the same as are used to attach the front of
the horizontal stab. Four on each aileron end, the distance from the tubes
to the centerline of the pivot bolt is the same as the normal aileron hinge
pivot distance. The end of the ailerons has no, none, nada, repeat no flex
with this arrangement.
To install, bolt the four bent stainless steel hinges together same
as on the horizontal stab. Temporarily use hose clamps to hold them in place
while you move the hinges into a spot where everything folds and hinges
normally. Tighten the clamps, drill and secure with 3/16 stainless rivits.
(Remove the clamps). If you already have the fabric and paint on, think of a
different way to temporarily locate them.
This is not to say that counterweights are not an excellent idea,
and may be necessary. Because I added a white nav light to the rear of my
rudder, I had MAJOR rudder flutter, flex was not a factor, and it was only
cured by adding a counterweight sticking forward from the top of the rudder
post.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
Hello LES PETITS AMIS
I DON'T KNOW WHAT ALL THAT MESS MEANS , BUT DOWN HEAR IN SOUTHEAST
TEXAS YOU ARE AT LEAST UNO INSTRUMENT SHORT . AND THAT IS THE ELT
I THINK YOU MAY NEED IT WHEN YOU FLY YOUR M2
RICK LIBERSAT N106RL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
LARRY
I HAD THE SAME TROUBLE WHEN IT CAME TIME TO USE OIL ?
I LOOKED AROUND JUST AS YOU HAVE WITH VERY LITTLE LUCK . SO I GOT ON
THE PHONE AND CALLED PENNSOIL IN PA. AND ASK ABOUT THEIR OIL AND WHAT
I WAS GOING TO DO WITH IT . THE PEN. OIL CO . WAS REAL NICE AND
ANSWERED ALL MY QUESTIONS . THEN THEY ASK FOR MY LOCATION , I TOLD
THEM ABOUT 90 mi. EAST OF HOUSTON . THEY GAVE ME THE PHONE NO. OF THE
HOUSTON PLANT I CALLED THEM AND THEY TOLD ME ALL KIND OF STUFF ABOUT
THEIR OIL . THEY ALSO MAILED ME THE CHEMICAL LAB RESULTS ON AIR COOLED
OIL VS. WATER COOLED OIL ON TEMP. RESULTS. AFTER THIS I
CALLED ERNIE LEPP ( OUR ROTAX COUNSEL ) HE IS IN CANADA
AND HIS NAME AS WELL AS PHONE NO. CAN BE FOUND IN THE BACK COVER OF YOUR
ROTAX MANUAL .HE IS VERY UP TO DATE ON ANY ROTAX PROBLEM I ASK ABOUT
THE OIL AND THIS IS WHAT HE SAID THAT ROTAX " ONLY " ENDORSES
3 OILS . PENNSOIL , AV2 , & BLIZZARD . OS FOR WHAT
IT WORTH I HOPE THIS MAY HELP . BY THE WAY I USE AV2 IN MY M III
.
RICK LIBERSAT N106RL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar 2 spades |
>Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 13:55:16
>To: Timandjan(at)aol.com
>From: Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca>
>Subject: Re: Firestar 2 spades
>
>>My flying buddy has perfected the spades for his firetsr 2. He tried them on
>>the wing tips mounted on the counter balance but it did'nt work well. He has
>>moved them to about mid point on the aileron and he loves them. In fact he is
>>having Kolb make him new control arms for the ailerons with less throw,
>>because with his spades he has too much control and says that with them the
>>way they are, he could easily perform rolls. He has trimmed the spades and
>>made many models. They are big and cannot fold the wings for travel without
>>removing them. he swears by them. I only have 10 hours on myFirestar 2 now,
>>but he says when I feel more comfortable, he will le fly his and I will be
>>sorry I did not make permanent attach points for some spades. (he tried to
>>convince me to do so during the building, but I was convinced the heavy
>>ailerons would not bother me. I rarely fly banking and cranking, I am kinda a
>>mellow pilot)
>>
>>
I have changed my wing folding procedures after installing my aileron
counter balance rods. If the ailerons are folded down in the original
fashion you end up with the balance rods sticking way out and about eyeball
height ----- not a very comfortable thing to get in your face when walking
around the end of the folded up Kolb! I made two aluminum brackets that fit
over the balance rods and then over the end of the wing. I used some old
aluminum sheet that was about 1/16 (or a bit less) of an inch thick. I cut
two plates that measured about 4 inches by 20 inches. I folded this plate
in the center. The bracket now looks like a big long skinny U or a human
hand with long fingers. This U has an inside measurement of about one inch.
I then cut a strip of old carpet and used strapping tape to fasten it inside
the bracket.
I slip one bracket over each balance rod and onto the wing. The wings can
now be folded. The ailerons stay in the same position as when flying. One
additional feature this setup has is that the control horns will not hit the
fuselage when the wings are folded --- if the ailerons and flaps are not
folded correctly!
Kim (BKS)
Saskatchewan Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | The *!!#$**!! Gearbox Drain Plug |
To All,
The story ends well thanks to all of you with the "right information".
The fairly good smack (in fact several of them) on the plug loosened it up
enough so that I could get it out with the vice grip pliers. There is a
flat washer that I guess gets glued over time to both the plug and the
housing and it is TOUGH!!! I filed the gubered up plug so that it now 5/8".
The magnetic insert accumulated a fair amount of fine metallic powder. I
did not see any true particles or bits of metal so I guess my gear box is
performing as it should and is in good order.
I recharged it with oil and safetied all the fittings. I feel a lot better
than yesterday. Thanks for the help.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (4.7 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | propwash <propwash(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The *!!#$**!! Gearbox Drain Plug |
Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote:
>
> To All,
>
> The story ends well thanks to all of you with the "right information".
>
> The fairly good smack (in fact several of them) on the plug loosened it up
> enough so that I could get it out with the vice grip pliers. There is a
> flat washer that I guess gets glued over time to both the plug and the
> housing and it is TOUGH!!! I filed the gubered up plug so that it now 5/8".
>
> The magnetic insert accumulated a fair amount of fine metallic powder. I
> did not see any true particles or bits of metal so I guess my gear box is
> performing as it should and is in good order.
>
> I recharged it with oil and safetied all the fittings. I feel a lot better
> than yesterday. Thanks for the help.
>
> Later,
>
> --
> Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (4.7 hrs)
> (972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
> Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Cliff, I think the very fine fileings are normal. Have seen 3 with
it. After my first change of oil,then on it was quite clean.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrio Taucer <adrio(at)capitalnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
Just a short note on antennae. The co-ax must indeed be of the same
impedance as the output of the radio (in this case 50 ohm). Now not only
must the impedance of the cable match that of the radio so too must that of
the antenna match that of the cable (each time you have an impedance
mismatch you get a reflection of the signal which results in a standing wave
in the cable and that much less of you signal going out into the air).
These simple antennas we are using are quarter wave antennae which if cut to
that length (1/4 wave length) result in a 50 ohm impedance. As far as the
ground plane goes it is there to provide the quarter wave antenna a
reflecting surface so it can have an imaginary second element going the
other direction (like a di-pole). The ground plane should be at least 1/4
wave length in radius from the mounting point of the antenna (that is a 1/2
wave lengths diameter).
The bit about not being allowed to cut the co-ax is only true if you have a
mismatched impedance on the antenna. Along the length of the co-ax the
resistive and reactive components of the impedance change as the wave
travels down the cable (that is the standing wave which gives you the SWR
you may have heard about). If you have a mismatch then you have this
situation and can reduce the SWR by cutting the co-ax to the exact length to
give you an impedance transformer between the 50 ohm of the radio and the ??
ohm of the antenna. But if you stick to the 1/4 wave length and the ground
plane then your antenna impedance is only resistive and your cable can be
any length you wish.
For a fast calculation of a quarter wave length use L=234/F where L is the
length of a 1/4 wave in feet and F is the frequency in MHz. So for 121.5
MHz the 1/4 wave antenna should be 1.9259 feet long.
My two cents worth.
Adrio
>Jim Baker wrote:
>>
>> Lots of db loss running this much cable to a passive antenna. Much
>> better to do it out of the floor pan with a short run. See below:
>>
>> Cliff,
>>
>> Made an antenna on the cheap. All you need is 25 in of stainless or
>> plain old music wire (hobby shop stuff) 1/16" dia. Go to Radio Shack
>> and get a panel mount BNC connector ( the one with threaded portion),
>> some RG-58 cable and a couple of twist on BNC male connectors.
>>
>> I already had an aluminum floor in the FS2 (built-in ground plane) and
>> so drilled an appropriate hole in the floor pan and just poked the
>> antenna wire thru the fabric when mounting it. I also super glued a
>> small nylon washer to the fabric by slipping it over the wire....keeps
>> the fabric from being damaged. Because of the ground clearance, mine
>> is bent back at a 45 degree angle.
>>
>> Works great with my Bendix King KLX 100. No noise at all from
>> ignition and while flying to Lake Texhoma last Sunday. Talked to Altus
>> AFB approach control from adjacent Ardmore (3000 ft). What a deal.
>>
>> > From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
>> > To: Russell Duffy
>> > Cc: Kolb list
>> > Subject: Re: Antenna Location
>>
>> > Russell Duffy wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > My radio is still not transmitting well. I need to establish a better
>> > > > ground plane and get a whip. I have heard of someone using
aluminum foil.
>> > >
>> > > What about mounting a short antenna pointing down from the floor-pan?
On the
>> > > SS this looks like a good option but the SS is quite a bit higher
than the
>> > > other models. This would give you the best ground plane available, some
>> > > shielding from the engine, and an unobstructed view of the other
radios you're
>> > > talking to.
>> > >
>> > > BTW- I loved the report as usual Cliff.
>> > >
>> > > Rusty
>> >
>> >
>> > Has anybody ever tried running your coax out through the tail boom and
>> > mounting it just in front of the rudder using some tubing braces to hold
>> > it up parallel with the rudder?
>> >
>> > Larry
>> >
>> > I really don't know anything about aircraft radios, but with all
>antennas that I have seen the antenna has to be matched with the correct
>length of coax or you have a impedence mismatch that is not good. In
>other words you can't whack off the extra coax on a CB and expect to have
>anything. As for ground plane- if you mount to the belly pan of the
>aircraft then you efectively place the largest area of your ground to the
>rear of the craft, since the shape and area of the ground plane
>determines to a large extent where your power or voice will be radiated.
>In other words in a car with the antenna mounted on the passenger fron
>fender your greatest range would be in the drection of the drivers rear
>fender. If you mount the antenna on the tail boom then yur ground plane
>radiates to the front using all the aircrafts metal framework as a ground
>plane. I am also not too sure what the effect of the extra coax wrapped
>up in a coil does either. Any way- food for thought.
>Larry
>
>
Adrio Taucer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
ADRIO
YOU GOT MY ATTENTION I HAVE AN ICOM A 21 I BOUGHT A CO-AX CABLE
THAT IS 6 FT. LONG FROM RADIO SHACK IT HAS THE BNC CONN. ON BOTH SIDES
IT WAS MADE FOR YOUR HAND HELD WHEN YOU ARE IN YOUR CAR THEIR IS A
WINDOW CLIP THAT WHEN YOU HAVE YOUR WINDOW UP IT WILL FIT ON THE WINDOW
AND YOU PUT YOUR RUBBER ANT. ON THE OUT SIDE THEN YOU CAN PUT THE OTHER
END ON YOUR NAV-COM I FASTENED ONE END TO THE METAL HOOP ON THE BOTTOM
OF THE M III ( THE FRONT SIDE OF THE HOOP ) RAN THE CO-AX THROUGH
THE FIBERGLASS NOSE THEN UP TO THE A 21
I HAVE TALKED TO THE TOWER AT LEAST 3 MILES OUT AND ASK THEM HOW DO THEY
READ ME AND THEY SAID LOUD AND CLEAR . I ALSO TALK TO OTHER AIRCRAFT
LAST SUNDAY I WAS TALKING WITH A B-17 AND PILOT WAS ABLE TO HEAR ME
JUST FINE . DO YOU THINK THAT WITH THIS 6FT. CO-AX EXTENSION THAT I
MAY BE DOING SOME DAMAGE TO MY RADIO . IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU ARE UP TO
SNUFF ON THIS PLEASE ADVISE ME ON WHAT YOU THINK I SHOULD DO IF
ANYTHING. THANKS
RICK LIBERSAT
N106RL
writes:
>Just a short note on antennae. The co-ax must indeed be of the same
>impedance as the output of the radio (in this case 50 ohm). Now not
>only
>must the impedance of the cable match that of the radio so too must
>that of
>the antenna match that of the cable (each time you have an impedance
>mismatch you get a reflection of the signal which results in a
>standing wave
>in the cable and that much less of you signal going out into the air).
>These simple antennas we are using are quarter wave antennae which if
>cut to
>that length (1/4 wave length) result in a 50 ohm impedance. As far as
>the
>ground plane goes it is there to provide the quarter wave antenna a
>reflecting surface so it can have an imaginary second element going
>the
>other direction (like a di-pole). The ground plane should be at least
>1/4
>wave length in radius from the mounting point of the antenna (that is
>a 1/2
>wave lengths diameter).
>
>The bit about not being allowed to cut the co-ax is only true if you
>have a
>mismatched impedance on the antenna. Along the length of the co-ax
>the
>resistive and reactive components of the impedance change as the wave
>travels down the cable (that is the standing wave which gives you the
>SWR
>you may have heard about). If you have a mismatch then you have this
>situation and can reduce the SWR by cutting the co-ax to the exact
>length to
>give you an impedance transformer between the 50 ohm of the radio and
>the ??
>ohm of the antenna. But if you stick to the 1/4 wave length and the
>ground
>plane then your antenna impedance is only resistive and your cable can
>be
>any length you wish.
>
>For a fast calculation of a quarter wave length use L=234/F where L is
>the
>length of a 1/4 wave in feet and F is the frequency in MHz. So for
>121.5
>MHz the 1/4 wave antenna should be 1.9259 feet long.
>
>My two cents worth.
>
>Adrio
>
>
>>Jim Baker wrote:
>>>
>>> Lots of db loss running this much cable to a passive antenna. Much
>>> better to do it out of the floor pan with a short run. See below:
>>>
>>> Cliff,
>>>
>>> Made an antenna on the cheap. All you need is 25 in of stainless or
>>> plain old music wire (hobby shop stuff) 1/16" dia. Go to Radio
>Shack
>>> and get a panel mount BNC connector ( the one with threaded
>portion),
>>> some RG-58 cable and a couple of twist on BNC male connectors.
>>>
>>> I already had an aluminum floor in the FS2 (built-in ground plane)
>and
>>> so drilled an appropriate hole in the floor pan and just poked the
>>> antenna wire thru the fabric when mounting it. I also super glued a
>>> small nylon washer to the fabric by slipping it over the
>wire....keeps
>>> the fabric from being damaged. Because of the ground clearance,
>mine
>>> is bent back at a 45 degree angle.
>>>
>>> Works great with my Bendix King KLX 100. No noise at all from
>>> ignition and while flying to Lake Texhoma last Sunday. Talked to
>Altus
>>> AFB approach control from adjacent Ardmore (3000 ft). What a deal.
>>>
>>> > From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
>>> > To: Russell Duffy
>>> > Cc: Kolb list
>>> > Subject: Re: Antenna Location
>>>
>>> > Russell Duffy wrote:
>>> > >
>>> > > > My radio is still not transmitting well. I need to establish
>a better
>>> > > > ground plane and get a whip. I have heard of someone using
>aluminum foil.
>>> > >
>>> > > What about mounting a short antenna pointing down from the
>floor-pan?
>On the
>>> > > SS this looks like a good option but the SS is quite a bit
>higher
>than the
>>> > > other models. This would give you the best ground plane
>available, some
>>> > > shielding from the engine, and an unobstructed view of the
>other
>radios you're
>>> > > talking to.
>>> > >
>>> > > BTW- I loved the report as usual Cliff.
>>> > >
>>> > > Rusty
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Has anybody ever tried running your coax out through the tail
>boom and
>>> > mounting it just in front of the rudder using some tubing braces
>to hold
>>> > it up parallel with the rudder?
>>> >
>>> > Larry
>>> >
>>> > I really don't know anything about aircraft radios, but with all
>
>>antennas that I have seen the antenna has to be matched with the
>correct
>>length of coax or you have a impedence mismatch that is not good. In
>>other words you can't whack off the extra coax on a CB and expect to
>have
>>anything. As for ground plane- if you mount to the belly pan of the
>>aircraft then you efectively place the largest area of your ground to
>the
>>rear of the craft, since the shape and area of the ground plane
>>determines to a large extent where your power or voice will be
>radiated.
>>In other words in a car with the antenna mounted on the passenger
>fron
>>fender your greatest range would be in the drection of the drivers
>rear
>>fender. If you mount the antenna on the tail boom then yur ground
>plane
>>radiates to the front using all the aircrafts metal framework as a
>ground
>>plane. I am also not too sure what the effect of the extra coax
>wrapped
>>up in a coil does either. Any way- food for thought.
>>Larry
>>
>>
>Adrio Taucer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
| Subject: | Firefly boom level ?? |
Jon Stieger asked about the tailboom being level or raised during level
flight in a Firefly;;;;;;; In the MK-3 in is raised a foot or two ,,,, I
would GUESS the F F would too BUT,,, it is a different plane _____ anybody
else?????????????????
Jim Kmet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Unintentional takeoff |
Your unintentional takeoff story at least has a happy ending. I know a
few that don't. My own story was fairly hair raising. It began just like
yours with a crow hop that went long and the runway ran out. I decided to
add full power just at about the time I was coming up on the noise abatement
procedures sign by the grass on the side of the runway. I was practicing on
the grass by the side of the runway. Anyway I tagged the sign with the left
wing tip, which was a great way to start my first real take off, and then
flew around the pattern to land with a broken rib and three feet of Stitts
flapping and training behind the wing. The plane flew fine. I was another
matter altogether.
You are absolutely correct to note that the level attitude in Kolb
products gives most folks the impression that the nose is way down. There is
a worthy discussion of that issue in the recent Kolb Newsletter (authored by
me) which I recomend to you. Good luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Greetings,
Finally getting to do some work on the SS again. The cage is covered and
sealed. The landing gear is painted and will be installed today. After that,
the plane will remain upright until at least my first landing :-)
I've thought about crow hops quite a bit and never been too crazy about the
idea. It just seems like your asking for a minor accident as a possible
trade-off for avoiding a major one. I'm planning a compromise for my first
flight where I will start off as a crow hop, but remain in that mode only long
enough to confirm that there's no severe rigging problem. At that point, I
will transition to full throttle (with plenty of runway left still) and
establish a normal climb. With any luck, I won't even hit any signs :-) I
sure am glad that story had a happy ending.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Stiegers wing angle of attack |
On Sat, 7 Jun 1997, The Kmets wrote:
> Jon ,, About your wing angle of attack,, Congratulations on your flight, .
> I flew with Dan at the Kolb factory last year in the MK_3, & I remember
> commenting to Dan about the view towards the wing tip ,It seemed we were
> always climbing . Dan said it was normal to look that way & I also noticed
> that the only time the wing was level with the horizon was during the
> descent to landing . The impending stall you think you experienced may not
Just to clarify here, it sounds like the apparent angle WRT the horizon
must differ among the Kolb types. On my FS (kxp) the wing *is* parallel
to the horizon at straight and level cruise. I think that also holds
true for the Ultrastar ...this is second hand tho'.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: FS 2 Aileron Flutter |
On Sun, 8 Jun 1997 MitchMnD(at)aol.com wrote:
> My flying partner was on a steep approach yesterday evening (AIS=70 to 73
> mph) when he felt the beginnings of a full blown aileron flutter. He has
> many spam can hours and I respect his conclusion that it was a true flutter
> condition. He now wants to add counterweights etc to prevent any future
> occurances. I would like to know if others have had this problem and what
> their solution was. The plane is powered by a 503 dcdcdi and is within the
> design weight. He is a 230 pounder and the fuel load was probably 20 Lbs.
> We will appreciate any constructive responses.. Duane Mitchell
Question: Does this particular FS II have the per plans counter weights
on the ailerons? I once heard of a guy deciding to leave them off (!!!)
cuz he thought it a little silly to just be adding weight to the plane.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Patriquin" <gpatriqu(at)direct.ca> |
I can understand your impatience to light the fires and aviate but you
would be strongly advised to, after doing your crow-hops and being
satisfied with the rigging, to shut down and do a bolt by bolt and rivet
by rivet inspection before getting any more air under you. After being
satisfied with that inspection, do ONE circuit and shut down again and
re-inspect EVERYTHING: engine, airframe, control surfaces and prop.
Impatience at this stage can ruin your whole day!
----
From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
Date: June 9, 1997 7:40 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Crow Hops
Greetings,
Finally getting to do some work on the SS again. The cage is covered
and
sealed. The landing gear is painted and will be installed today. After
that,
the plane will remain upright until at least my first landing :-)
I've thought about crow hops quite a bit and never been too crazy about
the
idea. It just seems like your asking for a minor accident as a possible
trade-off for avoiding a major one. I'm planning a compromise for my
first
flight where I will start off as a crow hop, but remain in that mode
only long
enough to confirm that there's no severe rigging problem. At that
point, I
will transition to full throttle (with plenty of runway left still) and
establish a normal climb. With any luck, I won't even hit any signs :-)
I
sure am glad that story had a happy ending.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
I can understand your impatience to light the fires and aviate but
you would
be strongly advised to, after doing your crow-hops and being satisfied
with the
rigging, to shut down and do a bolt by bolt and rivet by rivet
inspection before
getting any more air under you. After being satisfied with that
inspection, do
ONE circuit and shut down again and re-inspect EVERYTHING: engine,
airframe,
control surfaces and prop. Impatience at this stage can ruin your whole
day!
----
<B>From: </B>Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net><BR>
To: Kolb list <kolb(at)intrig.com>
Date: June 9, 1997 7:40 AM
Subject: Crow Hops
Greetings,
Finally getting to do some work on the SS again. The cage is
covered
and
sealed. The landing gear is painted and will be installed
today.
After that,
the plane will remain upright until at least my first landing :-)
I've thought about crow hops quite a bit and never been too crazy about
the
idea. It just seems like your asking for a minor accident as a
possible
trade-off for avoiding a major one. I'm planning a compromise for
my
first
flight where I will start off as a crow hop, but remain in that mode
only
long
enough to confirm that there's no severe rigging problem. At that
point,
I
will transition to full throttle (with plenty of runway left still)
and
establish a normal climb. With any luck, I won't even hit any
signs
:-) I
sure am glad that story had a happy ending.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
tparadis(at)pop400.gsfc.nasa.gov
| From: | The PROBE <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| From: | redduck(at)sprynet.com |
Subject: Kolb-List: the Ultimate Whack
The Date: 31 May 1997
The Scene: Newark Airport, Runway 04R
Air Italia 767 coming into land, just starting her flare. Suddenly
they get windshear'd, slamming the '67 down on her nose gear and left
main. Struts compress and rebound, sending the beast back into the air
to slam back down on the right main and the nose again. ONCE more just
to make sure all the seismographs in the area register the impact, she
finally runs out of airspeed and makes one final arrival bottoming out
the struts on all three gears.
Airplane decides "Screw this concrete." and swerves to the left into
the grass. All the emergency exits fly open and a textbook evac is
performed as a torrent of Italian fills the Tower frequency.
(Something about "I thought YOU were doing the landing!!")
>From what I understand the entire center section of the wing and
forward part of the fuselage were buckled and are beyond repair. As we
went by today they were removing the vertical fin. (Hey!! A topless
767!!)
It's funny only since no one got hurt, amazingly enough.
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 1997 14:33:06 -0700
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Does anyone know where I can buy the Rotax oil injection tank for 582/618,
(Rotax part number 881465)? This is the one with cap and bracket included.
I have called LEAF, CPS, KOLB, Greensky Ohio, and there are none to be found.
I have heard one person say they are on backorder from the Rotax factory in
Austria. I would appreciate any pointers to known sources, or dealers'
phone numbers I could call and ask. Thanks a lot guys!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Rotax top end check |
Hi Kolb Fliers
I got back into the air this weekend after a long bit of down time. I had
just finished the de-carboning, doing it the official way this time.
That means pulling the cylinders off, then pulling the pistons too. I did
the dentistry pick thing to the ring grooves, getting all the carbon out,
and soaked the pistons in Berryman's. Also checked pistons and cylinders
for wear and roundness. Everything was in tolerence with no appreciable
wear showing, and the measurements will be useful for comparison at the
next top end job. Engine started on second pull, but before leaping into
air i tethered the plane and ran thru a 10 minute test at various rpms.
All fine. (even with triple checking, i had worries about how i could
possibly have gotten all those wrist pin needle bearings back where
they belong!)
The only problem i found during the teardown was the deflection fin inside
the top half of the engine cowling was up against the cylinder head
causing vibration wear. This fin is what directs cooling air onto the
front cylinder instead of letting it all go thru to the rear cylinder.
I ground it down, even being bold enf to take away 1/8" off the whole
bottom edge of the fin. I did this because my rear cylinder always ran
~20-30 degrees hotter than the front cylinder. The CHTs are more even
now, although they were not for the first 1.5 hours of test flight on
Saturday. CHTs were very close to each other on Sunday's 1.5 hour flight.
Not sure what's going on here yet and I need to recheck whether I've
got the front CHT connected to the front cylinder or perhaps opposite.
Overall, the teardown wasn't too bad. A good learning experince,
and when you do it, it is instructive to actually see the carbon in
the ring grooves -- much easier to picture how it can lead to heat and
siezure problems. (My engine has 120 hours on it.) Although the density
altitude may have been slightly different from my previous flights, i
got the same or lower EGTs this weekend as I did prior to the cleaning,
and that even with the needle valve circlip now moved one step leaner.
Cool! :-) The only special tools i used for the teardown were the
wrist pin plug ($8 or make your own if you can get to a lathe), and
i borrowed a 2-3" micrometer and hole gauge.
BTW, last year's UF! magazine issue with the cover article and review of
the Slingshot has an excellent guide to doing the Rotax top-end job.
It was great to get back flying. Saturday evening in the still air
just before sunset i pulled my feet up next to the seat , leaned back
w/ my hand gently holding the stick and just cruised up the delta for
1/2 hour contemplating life and the great view below. How sweet it is.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: FS 2 Aileron Flutter (fwd) |
I guess I feel a little defensive when a subject like flutter comes up
on a Kolb. So, i'm forwarding Duane's reply to the list. To me, a FS
II without aileron counter balances is not a FS II.
-Ben
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 14:21:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: FS 2 Aileron Flutter
Hi Ben, This FS-2 did not have the counerbalances but it will have them
prior to the next lift off. This "per plans" feature was omitted by the
original builder... Thanks for your input... Duane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Photography from ultralights |
Anyone have any suggestions about taking photos from an ultralight? My
experience so far has been less than acceptable from a safety standpoint.
The first time I tried it, the camera strap unbuckled my 4-point
harness--and I'm in an Ultrastar with no enclosure. Yesterday, after many
months of avoiding it I decided to try again. The damn strap blew back and
caught on my ballistic 'chute handle when I went to put it down! I'm sure
I came no where near actually pulling it, but I'm 2 for 2 now on bad
experiences with it.
The Ultrastar is awkward for photography. I have to either fly with my
left hand on the stick (which is on the right-hand side), or hold the
camera with my left, which is also awkward. I also took a couple with both
hands on the camera, but it's a little to disconcerting to be flying blind
with no hands on the controls.
Mike Ransom | Davis, Calif., USA
|
---================================================---
/O\
-====o====-
/-----\
mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu || || Kolb UltraStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax oil tank |
Be careful. There are two types of 582 oil tank. There is the older model
which is black, and there is the newer model which is translucent to permit
you to see the amount of oil in the tank (nice idea) and has a sender for a
low oil idiot light on the panel (an even nicer idea). Be sure you get one
of the new ones.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skip(at)netline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jon Stiegers wing angle of attack |
edu>
>Just to clarify here, it sounds like the apparent angle WRT the horizon
>must differ among the Kolb types. On my FS (kxp) the wing *is* parallel
>to the horizon at straight and level cruise. I think that also holds
>true for the Ultrastar ...this is second hand tho'.
FWIW, my Ultrastar flys straight and level with what appears to be a
rather healthy angle of attack.
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FS 2 Aileron Flutter (fwd) |
I had a ltalk with Dennis at Sun n" Fun on the subject of aileron
counterweights for the Mark 3. He said that some Mark 3s needed them and
some didn't. As I recall he felt it had to do with the cg of the aileron
itself. The further back the cg was the more likely it is to flutter. This
did not make me feel great because one of those little personal improvements
I made on my mark 3 was to tape the trailing edge of the aileron because I
found the back edge of the mark 2 aileron got abraided alot with folding and
such. Presumably that would add a little weight right in the wrong place.
I confess that I am a little concerned about just how I find out if my
mark 3 falls into the category of the ones that need it. The other pain in
the butt part of this counterweight business is that if you install your dual
wingtip strobes from Kunzelman the way he suggests it conflicts with the
counterweight. Dammit. I'd welcome some input from the group on how
concerned I should be about this. My wings are all covered and painted and
it would be a real drag to put counterweights on now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | FW: FS 2 Aileron Flutter (fwd) |
I am just starting covering and am going to put some tape on the
trailing edges of all control surfaces and the leading edge of the horiz
stabilizer. I really like the sound of a spade/counterweight to aid in
the roll response and take care of flutter. I am interested in the
earlier post about the firestar, my ailerons are not covered yet so I
could add a hard point. I'm sorry but whoever posted that could you
please post more details or e-mail me directly.
Thanks Jason jason(at)acuityinc.com
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com@acuityinc.com [SMTP:Cavuontop(at)aol.com@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Monday, June 09, 1997 1:53 PM
>To: ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu
>Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: FS 2 Aileron Flutter (fwd)
>
> I had a ltalk with Dennis at Sun n" Fun on the subject of aileron
>counterweights for the Mark 3. He said that some Mark 3s needed them and
>some didn't. As I recall he felt it had to do with the cg of the aileron
>itself. The further back the cg was the more likely it is to flutter. This
>did not make me feel great because one of those little personal improvements
>I made on my mark 3 was to tape the trailing edge of the aileron because I
>found the back edge of the mark 2 aileron got abraided alot with folding and
>such. Presumably that would add a little weight right in the wrong place.
>
> I confess that I am a little concerned about just how I find out if my
>mark 3 falls into the category of the ones that need it. The other pain in
>the butt part of this counterweight business is that if you install your dual
>wingtip strobes from Kunzelman the way he suggests it conflicts with the
>counterweight. Dammit. I'd welcome some input from the group on how
>concerned I should be about this. My wings are all covered and painted and
>it would be a real drag to put counterweights on now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Photography from ultralights |
I have some limited experience with photography from the air and it is
extremely difficult to do it safely by yourself. An open cockpit would
make it even more difficult because of the wind and the fear of drooping
something. My suggestion would be mount the camera and have a remote
shutter button. The camera mount could have a couple of positions that
could be set while in cruise (but the camera is never detached)
foreword, and straight down. you could then make some runs over the
target taking pictures as you go. The main thing is remembering to fly
the plane first. I have seen and heard about many accidents that have
happened when the pilot is distracted (bomb dropping, picture taking,
trying to get something out of storage in the airplane), it seems it
would be easier to make a strafing run while trying to position the
airplane with the flight controls than to try and get the airplane
positioned and work the camera at the same time.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Ransom [SMTP:mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Monday, June 09, 1997 2:19 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Photography from ultralights
>
>Anyone have any suggestions about taking photos from an ultralight? My
>experience so far has been less than acceptable from a safety standpoint.
>
>The first time I tried it, the camera strap unbuckled my 4-point
>harness--and I'm in an Ultrastar with no enclosure. Yesterday, after many
>months of avoiding it I decided to try again. The damn strap blew back and
>caught on my ballistic 'chute handle when I went to put it down! I'm sure
>I came no where near actually pulling it, but I'm 2 for 2 now on bad
>experiences with it.
>
>The Ultrastar is awkward for photography. I have to either fly with my
>left hand on the stick (which is on the right-hand side), or hold the
>camera with my left, which is also awkward. I also took a couple with both
>hands on the camera, but it's a little to disconcerting to be flying blind
>with no hands on the controls.
>Mike Ransom | Davis, Calif., USA
> |
> ---================================================---
> /O\
> -====o====-
> /-----\
>mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu || || Kolb UltraStar
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <IBIMIAMI(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Photography from ultralights |
I used to fly a Pterodactyl onto which I securely mounted (and safety-wired)
the upper section of a tripod.
The camera (also safety wired) went onto the tripod head, and was activated
with a remote cable that I tie-wrapped to the throttle bracket mount. The
camera was set at a fixed angle, and photos were taken by pointing the entire
plane as opposed to the camera.
Worked quite well.
Peter Volum
Kolb III 25%
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com On Behalf Of Mike Ransom
Sent: Monday, June 09, 1997 5:19 PM
To: kolb(at)intrig.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Photography from ultralights
Anyone have any suggestions about taking photos from an ultralight? My
experience so far has been less than acceptable from a safety standpoint. The
first time I tried it, the camera strap unbuckled my 4-point harness-and I'm
in an Ultrastar with no enclosure. Yesterday, after many months of avoiding
it I decided to try again. The damn strap blew back and caught on my
ballistic 'chute handle when I went to put it down! I'm sure I came no where
near actually pulling it, but I'm 2 for 2 now on bad experiences with it. The
Ultrastar is awkward for photography. I have to either fly with my left hand
on the stick (which is on the right-hand side), or hold the camera with my
left, which is also awkward. I also took a couple with both hands on the
camera, but it's a little to disconcerting to be flying blind with no hands on
the controls.
Mike Ransom | Davis, Calif., USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly boom level ?? |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
JIM
WHEN I WAS GETTING THE W/B FOR MY M III I USED A DIGITAL LEVEL I
FIRST GOT THE WINGS TO WHAT DENNIS SAID TO PUT THEM AT I THINK IT WAS
9deg.
so with this in mind the wing' s at 9deg. THIS WILL PUT THE TAIL
BOOM AT 7.5 deg. THIS WAS A LOT EASER FOR ME TO SET UP, ALL I HAD TO DO
WAS TO GET OUT THE LEVEL PUT IT ON THE TAIL BOOM AND RAISE IT UP TILL IT
READ 7.5 AND THIS PUT THE WING'S AT 9 deg. YOU CAN ALSO CHECK THE THRUST
LINE ON YOUR ROTAX THIS WILL HELP YOU SET YOUR ENGINE TO " 0 " IN
RELATION TO THE WING INCINDENSE. HOPE THIS HELP'S YOU OUT TALK
TO YOU LATER
RICK LIBERSAT N106RL
>Jon Stieger asked about the tailboom being level or raised during
>level
>flight in a Firefly;;;;;;; In the MK-3 in is raised a foot or two
>,,,, I
>would GUESS the F F would too BUT,,, it is a different plane _____
>anybody
>else?????????????????
>
> Jim Kmet
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
ADRIO
I AM USEING THE ANTENNA THAT CAME WITH THE A21 THE RUBBER DUCKIE I
HAVE FOUND OUT DURING FLIGHT THAT THE WIND FORCE WILL BEND THE ANTENNA
BACK QUITE A WAYS SO THAT THE METAL WHOOP AND THE ANTENNA WILL MAKE AN
" X " IF YOU KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT ? SO FOR THE FIX I GOT A
ICE CREAM STICK AND 3 TIE WRAPS AND MADE A SPLINT THE GUYS I FLY WITH
SAID IT SEAMED TO HELP THE RECP. ON THEIR END
THANKS FOR THE REPLY ! TALK TO YOU LATER
RICK LIBERSAT N106RL
writes:
>Rick,
>
>The cable will not hurt the radio, but the question i have is what are
>you using for an antenna. If the antenna is matched to 50 ohm (like
>the
>one that came with the radio or one that is cut to the right lenght)
>then you have no trouble. Most modern radios have protection on the
>output stages so if you had a great mis match they would not transmit,
>but I don't know about the A21.
>
>Adrio
>
>RICK M LIBERSAT wrote:
>>
>> ADRIO
>>
>> YOU GOT MY ATTENTION I HAVE AN ICOM A 21 I BOUGHT A CO-AX
>CABLE
>> THAT IS 6 FT. LONG FROM RADIO SHACK IT HAS THE BNC CONN. ON BOTH
>SIDES
>> IT WAS MADE FOR YOUR HAND HELD WHEN YOU ARE IN YOUR CAR THEIR IS A
>> WINDOW CLIP THAT WHEN YOU HAVE YOUR WINDOW UP IT WILL FIT ON THE
>WINDOW
>> AND YOU PUT YOUR RUBBER ANT. ON THE OUT SIDE THEN YOU CAN PUT THE
>OTHER
>> END ON YOUR NAV-COM I FASTENED ONE END TO THE METAL HOOP ON THE
>BOTTOM
>> OF THE M III ( THE FRONT SIDE OF THE HOOP ) RAN THE CO-AX
>THROUGH
>> THE FIBERGLASS NOSE THEN UP TO THE A 21
>> I HAVE TALKED TO THE TOWER AT LEAST 3 MILES OUT AND ASK THEM HOW DO
>THEY
>> READ ME AND THEY SAID LOUD AND CLEAR . I ALSO TALK TO OTHER
>AIRCRAFT
>> LAST SUNDAY I WAS TALKING WITH A B-17 AND PILOT WAS ABLE TO HEAR
>ME
>> JUST FINE . DO YOU THINK THAT WITH THIS 6FT. CO-AX EXTENSION
>THAT I
>> MAY BE DOING SOME DAMAGE TO MY RADIO . IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU ARE UP TO
>> SNUFF ON THIS PLEASE ADVISE ME ON WHAT YOU THINK I SHOULD DO IF
>> ANYTHING. THANKS
>> RICK LIBERSAT
>> N106RL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone have any info, parts, ideas, spare parts, used parts or
damaged parts for a Kolb Flyer (the single seater, dual engine one).
Thanks in advance,
Randall E. Cook, Sr.
rcook@tech-center.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALLENB007(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: KOLB Firefly prop reply |
Stephen,
I myself own a Firefly that now has a little over 14 hours on it. I love the
plane--it's a real "sportster" type plane with predictable handling
characteristics. It comes with a Tennessee wood prop on it and it was very
smooth. I also have a three blade IVO 66" that Kolb recommends on it for
smoothness, etc. I put it on along with a spacer that Kolb recommended. I
found that I could control my EGT readings very will with pitch but I found
the prop to be rough in a good many rpm spots and had a good bit of
vibration. After working a good bit with the IVO, I changed back to the Tn
Wood prop and it's smooth as a baby's backside. I don't have the
adjustability of the IVO and it's a little louder, but boy is it smooth.
I'll take smooth any day over adjustability.
Just my thoughts,
AllenB007(at)aol.com
USUA, BFI #56385
P.S. Just getting ready to put a desert storm camaflogue stitts covered CGS
Hawk on the Internet for $9,900 that is a one of a kind should you know of
anyone in the market. Thanks again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALLENB007(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop for a Firefly with Rotax 447? |
Firefly Owner,
P.S. I forgot to tell you that on the 66" IVO, I only used the two blade
prop with spacer--not the three blade.
Sorry for the omission,
AllenB007(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone have any info, parts, ideas, spare parts, used parts or
damaged parts for a Kolb Flyer (the single seater, dual engine one).
Thanks in advance,
Randall E. Cook, Sr.
rcook@tech-center.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | propwash <propwash(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop for a Firefly with Rotax 447? |
ALLENB007(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Firefly Owner,
>
> P.S. I forgot to tell you that on the 66" IVO, I only used the two blade
> prop with spacer--not the three blade.
>
> Sorry for the omission,
>
> AllenB007(at)aol.com
Two blade Tenn. for sale 66x30 for Firefly,447.....$100
like, looks new. 20hr.
If anyone gets this,, say got it.
Everything comes back.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jhann Gestur Jhannsson <johanng(at)ok.is> |
Hi Kolb flyers.
Is anyone using a Rotax 532 engine on his Firestar II. I had planed on using
a 503 DCDI on my aircraft, but I came across a "new" never used 532 engine,
and am curious to know if there is a major difference between these engines,
in relation to weight, power and how it will effect the CG of the Firestar
II. Can anyone inform me why this engine is no longer in production?
Thank you for a great help with all your letters on the list.
Jhann G.
Iceland.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <wood(at)mail.wincom.net> |
>Hello All!
>
> I am looking for some of the contacts I use to know about a year ago.
>
> At that time I was looking and calling everyone I could for information
>on the Kolb Flyer I am building.
>
> I had to go into the VA Hospital to take care of my Lukema and at the
>time I didn't know if I would ever make it out.
>
> After 13 months of treatments, I am now out, in remission and now want
>to get re-started on my flyer!
>
> If any of you out there are some of the people I talked with or wrote
>to, will you please E-Mail me or call and let me know? My memory is not
>what it use to be and I can't find my list of contacts.
>
>
>Thank You for your time-
>
>Randall E. Cook, Sr.
>Box 001
>Askov, MN 55704
>(320) 838-3728
>rcook@tech-center.com
>
>I built a Kolb Flyer back around 80 or 81. I think I was one of the first
builders to fly one.On a historical note I became Kolbs first authorized
dealer.I have helped on an Ultrastar and Mark 3 and built my own Twinstar.
If I can I will help with your questions,feel free to ask. If I dont know
the answer Ill make it up and Im sure other readers on the list will correct
me if I am wrong.First advice is I hope you are going for the bigger engines.
Contact me online or off line richard.wood(at)usa.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Finally got some smooth overcast air this evening and compared the
Warp Drive prop to the Ivo. Thought it might be of interest so here it is.
Bear in mind I am running a Rotax 532, which only makes about as much torque
as a 503 single carb, even if it does make 64 HP. An engine with a better
torque curve might produce different results.
66" Warp Drive two blade (3 blades too much for the 532)
Warp@6300rpm static=6500rpm climb@800fpm
cruise5200rpm=54mph max level 6800rpm=75mph
Warp@6000rpm static=6200rpm climb@700fpm
cruise5200rpm=54mph max level 6500rpm=80mph
66" Ivo 3 blade
Ivo@6300rpm static=6500rpm climb@900fpm
cruise5200rpm=54mph Max level 6800rpm=76 mph
The three blade Ivo was noticably quieter and smoother than the two blade Warp.
Perhaps the three blade Warp would have been quieter and smoother than the
two blade. The two blade Warp allowed the engine to quickly rev to max rpm,
while the three blade Ivo apparently loads up the torque curve faster,
causing the engine to hesitate momentarily while accelerating through 5000
rpm. This is probably only a factor for a 532. The pitch angle at the tips
was the same when the Warp was set for 6000 rpm static and the Ivo was set
for 6300 rpm static. The engine ran "happiest" with the Warp set to 6300rpm
static, and did not manifest it's usual hunting between 5200 and 5700 like
it normally does.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
At 12:54 AM 6/10/97 GMT, you wrote:
>Hi Kolb flyers.
>
>Is anyone using a Rotax 532 engine on his Firestar II. I had planed on=
using
>a 503 DCDI on my aircraft, but I came across a "new" never used 532 engine,
>and am curious to know if there is a major difference between these=
engines,
>in relation to weight, power and how it will effect the CG of the Firestar
>II. Can anyone inform me why this engine is no longer in production?
>
>Thank you for a great help with all your letters on the list.
>
>J=F3hann G.
>Iceland.
>
> I am using a 532 on my MKIII (see my earlier posting about comparing
the Warp drive prop to the Ivo). The 582 has dual cdi ignition and oil
injection. The other main difference is in the torque curves. The 532
"hunts" between 5200 and 5700 rpm, and has an abrupt torque curve. The 582
has much less tendency to "hunt" and has a much better torque curve as well
as more torque. It also makes 66 horsepower vs. 64 for the 532. Therefore
the 582 will accept a larger prop or more pitch than the 532. If you
overprop a 532, it "goes flat" at 5000 rpm, and will not get on the pipe
unless you take off, accelerate in ground effect until the prop unloads the
engine, and then it will rev on up into the power band. (Guess how I found
that out?) I am using a 532 because it was almost new,(70 hours) carefully
broken in, and well cared for, and it was REALLY CHEAP. I got what I paid
for. An engine that does a fine job as long as you are willing to accomodate
it peaky personality. I flew from Tennessee to Oshkosh and back with one
several years ago and never had a lick of trouble. In my opinion, a new 532
should be worth about half what a used 582 will bring.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: KOLB Firefly prop reply |
>Stephen,
>
>I myself own a Firefly that now has a little over 14 hours on it. I love the
>plane--it's a real "sportster" type plane with predictable handling
>characteristics. It comes with a Tennessee wood prop on it and it was very
>smooth. I also have a three blade IVO 66" that Kolb recommends on it for
>smoothness, etc. I put it on along with a spacer that Kolb recommended. I
>found that I could control my EGT readings very will with pitch but I found
>the prop to be rough in a good many rpm spots and had a good bit of
>vibration. After working a good bit with the IVO, I changed back to the Tn
>Wood prop and it's smooth as a baby's backside. I don't have the
>adjustability of the IVO and it's a little louder, but boy is it smooth.
> I'll take smooth any day over adjustability.
>
>Just my thoughts,
>
>AllenB007(at)aol.com
>USUA, BFI #56385
>
>P.S. Just getting ready to put a desert storm camaflogue stitts covered CGS
>Hawk on the Internet for $9,900 that is a one of a kind should you know of
>anyone in the market. Thanks again.
>
> If the blades on the Ivo are not pitched at the same angle it gets
rough. Don't trust the cams to automatically get the pitch the same on all
blades, check it, and if necessary, shim . Makes a big difference.
Richard Pike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Photography from ultralights |
Mike Ransom wrote:
>
> Anyone have any suggestions about taking photos from an ultralight? My
> experience so far has been less than acceptable from a safety standpoint.
>
> The first time I tried it, the camera strap unbuckled my 4-point
> harness--and I'm in an Ultrastar with no enclosure. Yesterday, after many
> months of avoiding it I decided to try again. The damn strap blew back and
> caught on my ballistic 'chute handle when I went to put it down! I'm sure
> I came no where near actually pulling it, but I'm 2 for 2 now on bad
> experiences with it.
>
> The Ultrastar is awkward for photography. I have to either fly with my
> left hand on the stick (which is on the right-hand side), or hold the
> camera with my left, which is also awkward. I also took a couple with both
> hands on the camera, but it's a little to disconcerting to be flying blind
> with no hands on the controls.
> Mike Ransom | Davis, Calif., USA
> |
> ---================================================---
> /O\
> -====o====-
> /-----\
> mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu || || Kolb UltraStar
Hi,
I also plan to do a bit of photo stuff, I can hold the stick with my
knees, but I am going to get one of the "cuban hitch" straps that hold
the camera to your chest when you arent using it. (Elastic) I have a fear
of hitting a bump on landing and getting clunked in the chest with a one
pound chunk of camera.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Photography from ultralights |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
MIKE
I HAVE A FRIEND UP IN ZION , IL. WHAT HE DID WAS HE MADE YOKE THAT
WENT AROUND HIS CAM CORDER THEN HE CUT OUT A PLATE OUT OF A PEACE OF
ALUM. ON THE BOTTOM OF THIS PLATE HE GOT ONE OF HIS GRAND KIDS TOY
CAR THE ONE THAT HAS THE WIRE FROM THE HAND HELD CONTROLS TO THE CAR HE
THEN TOOK THE CAR BODY OFF SO HE COULD GET TO THE SERVO MOTORS . THEN HE
MOUNTED ONE OF THE MOTORS TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PLATE , THIS WOULD LET
HIM LOVE THE CAMERA TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT ,
THEN ON THE YOKE HE MOUNTED THE OTHER SERVO TO THE YOKE THIS LET HIM
SWING THE CAMERA UP OR DOWN . NOW WITH ALL OF THAT DONE HE MOUNTED THE
LITTLE JOY STICK ON THE FLOOR PAN NEXT TO HIS LEFT HAND . SO NOW HE CAN
MOVE THE CAMERA LEFT or RIGHT , AS WELL AS UP AND DOWN WITH THIS LITTLE
OLD JOY STICK. THEN !! HE WENT TO RAIDO SHACK AND BOUGHT A 3.5 or A
5 in. T V . HE PUT THIS IN THE PASS. SEAT WITH A SHEILD ALL AROUND IT
TO KEEP THE GLARE DOWN THEN HE RAN HIS WIRE FROM THE CAM CORDER TO THE
TV SO HE COULD SEE WHAT THE CAMERA WAS SEEING . HE ALSO HAD SOME BUNGE
CORD ON EACH SIDE OF THE YOKE TO HELP OUT ON THE VIBRATIONS. HE HAS SENT
ME SEVERAL TAPES OF HIS AREA FROM THE AIR. HE ALSO HAD HIS INTERCOM
PATCHED IN SO THEIR WAS AUDIO AS WELL AS VIDEO IT WORKS REAL GOOD .
HOPE THIS MIGHT HELP YOU OUT
IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO TALK TO HIM LET ME KNOW I'LL GIVE YOU HIS PHONE NO.
RICK LIBERSAT N106RL
On Mon, 09 Jun 1997
>Anyone have any suggestions about taking photos from an ultralight?
>My
>experience so far has been less than acceptable from a safety
>standpoint.
>
>The first time I tried it, the camera strap unbuckled my 4-point
>harness--and I'm in an Ultrastar with no enclosure. Yesterday, after
>many
>months of avoiding it I decided to try again. The damn strap blew
>back and
>caught on my ballistic 'chute handle when I went to put it down! I'm
>sure
>I came no where near actually pulling it, but I'm 2 for 2 now on bad
>experiences with it.
>
>The Ultrastar is awkward for photography. I have to either fly with
>my
>left hand on the stick (which is on the right-hand side), or hold the
>camera with my left, which is also awkward. I also took a couple with
>both
>hands on the camera, but it's a little to disconcerting to be flying
>blind
>with no hands on the controls.
>Mike Ransom | Davis, Calif.,
>USA
> |
> ---================================================---
> /O\
> -====o====-
> /-----\
>mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu || || Kolb
>UltraStar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
| Subject: | Cleaning your Lexan surfaces |
Dan, the test pilot at Kolb, recommends Novus Number 1.
You can find out about this at
http://www.noscratch.com/novus/number1.shtml
For Orders Only, they list: 1 (800) NOVUS60
You can email novus(at)noscratch.com
I've never used the stuff - just passing along Dan's recommendation...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FS 2 Aileron Flutter |
The following was in the July 1995 Kolb Newsletter
"(This was included in a previous mailing - this is a reminder)
The FireStar I/II series aircraft (the new series that accommodates the
second seat) needs aileron counter balances. They are included as part of
the kit. If you have received your third kit (the fuselage cage) and dont
yet have the counter balances, then notify us and well send you a set.
There has not be a general need for aileron counter-balances on the other
Kolb Aircraft except where there have been modifications. (There have been
some very isolated instances of aileron flutter, but these have been rare.)
Why one Mark-II, for instance, has had aileron flutter, and all the hundreds
of others have not is a real mystery."
To further clarify: The original FireStar which was characterized by the
high cockpit sides and the KX and KXP FireStars which was characterized by
lowered cockpit sides, full length windshield and partially open rear
fuselage did not need counterbalances.
When the newest FireStar series was introduced with the second seat
capability came the need for counterbalances. The ailerons control system
was changed with this FireStar: it was changed to a torque tube that ran back
to the rear of the cage and from there connected 2 push-pull tubes up to the
aileron. All earlier FireStars had a more complicated sustem of 4 push-pull
tubes and two bell cranks. These earlier FireStars had the 2 main push-pull
tubes horizontal under the wing vs. the newer vertically oriented push-pull
tubes on the FireStar-II.
We suspect that the additional friction of the older system provided
sufficient dampening to eliminate flutter; the newer system has less friction
and therefore more prone to flutter. And any flutter that has occurred has
been non-destructive. Scarry ... yes; but no broken parts.
Hopes this makes things clearer.
Dennis Souder
Pres Kolb Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | FireFly second flight questions |
Well, I made my second flight yesterday. It went fairly well, I think. :)
The previous owner has trim tabs all over it, one of which is set to raise
the right aileron. When I let go of the stick, the plane rolls to the
right, so I'll probably end up taking that off. I'm not sure why he'd
put that on there...
I'm trying to make the plane idle at 2,000RPM. (According to what I've
read in the manual, that is what the idle should be set at. I've turned the
screw on the carb all the way to the right, and it doesn't seem to do
anything.
It still drops well below 2,000 (and will stall). Could this be a jetting
problem? Maybe I should pull the jet and see what's in there.
Also, on takeoff and at full throttle, I'm only getting 6100-6200RPM.
I'm assuming that the pitch on the blade is limiting my RPM? I don't have
any information about how to check/change the pitch though. (IVO 3 blade)
What do you suggest as a good pitch? What RPMs should I be getting on
takeoff?
Takeoff was long and "fast", because I'm not sure of the accuracy of my
airspeed indicator. I didn't want to stall out. Climb performance felt
about the same as a Piper J-3. Maybe I'll see some better climb rates
with a pitch change, and when I know where my stall is, so I can get the
nose up higher.
I tried a couple of stalls, but with the airplane out of trim, it wanted
to spin. It stalled with very little warning. It just seemed to climb
slower, get a little mushy, and then break. I decided to take care of
the trim problem before messing with stalls again.
The flight lasted 26 minutes. I flew around within gliding distance of
field at various altitudes (2500' to 4,000'). When it was time to come
back in, (getting close to sunset), I made one high speed pass over the
runway, climbed back up into the pattern, did a normal approach and landed.
I kept power on all the way to the ground. I meant to take it off when I
got to about 2 or 3 feet above the ground, but I forgot. :P (The last
lesson I had in the Cub had to do with how having power on allows you to
fly slower, making it sort of dangerous near the ground, since you can
actually be slower than stall speed... Take off the power, and splat...)
At any rate, the landing was beautiful! I barely felt the contact with the
ground. Greased 'er right in there. (Of course, no one was watching) ;)
I can't really take credit for that landing though, because I was under the
impression that I was flying over the surface of the runway in a more or
less level attitude. Once I got it on the ground, the plane handled
wonderfully. Taxi control was confidence inspiring. (Which was a little
different than takeoff. It felt kind of squirrily and it felt kind of
fast when I took off.) Maybe it was just the illusion of speed due to
the open cockpit...
Well, the wind is blowing right now, but hopefully it'll be calm by
evening, and flight number three will take place today. I'll by flying
the Cub today too... The FireFly is still very new to me, and I have to
confess that at this point, flying the Cub is more fun. I know exactly what
I'm doing in the Cub, and exactly how it'll respond. The FireFly is a new
entity with a few wrinkles to be worked out. I'm looking forward to having
fun in my FireFly as opposed to just flying it. :)
Well, any help or advice about the above stuff would be much
appreciated! :) Thanks very much to everyone who responded to me
about my first flight, level flight, and landings!
-Jon-
Jon Steiger - Network Administrator for Academic Information Technology
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Shamblin <shamblin(at)hc1.hci.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Photography from ultralights |
perhaps, this is too elementary, but just carry an Olympus Stylus around
your neck and operate it with your free hand. with the wide angle lens
you dont have to use the viewfinder to get good shots. it works for me.
bill shamblin
On Mon, 9 Jun 1997, Peter Volum wrote:
> I used to fly a Pterodactyl onto which I securely mounted (and safety-wired)
> the upper section of a tripod.
> The camera (also safety wired) went onto the tripod head, and was activated
> with a remote cable that I tie-wrapped to the throttle bracket mount. The
> camera was set at a fixed angle, and photos were taken by pointing the entire
> plane as opposed to the camera.
> Worked quite well.
> Peter Volum
> Kolb III 25%
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com On Behalf Of Mike Ransom
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 1997 5:19 PM
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Photography from ultralights
>
> Anyone have any suggestions about taking photos from an ultralight? My
> experience so far has been less than acceptable from a safety standpoint. The
> first time I tried it, the camera strap unbuckled my 4-point harness-and I'm
> in an Ultrastar with no enclosure. Yesterday, after many months of avoiding
> it I decided to try again. The damn strap blew back and caught on my
> ballistic 'chute handle when I went to put it down! I'm sure I came no where
> near actually pulling it, but I'm 2 for 2 now on bad experiences with it. The
> Ultrastar is awkward for photography. I have to either fly with my left hand
> on the stick (which is on the right-hand side), or hold the camera with my
> left, which is also awkward. I also took a couple with both hands on the
> camera, but it's a little to disconcerting to be flying blind with no hands on
> the controls.
> Mike Ransom | Davis, Calif., USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
| Subject: | Establishing stall speeds |
I am the happy owner of an FSII with a 503 and an IVO two-blade.
I've got about an hour of time, and am able to make reasonably good
landings. Usually I come in at about 65ias and hold off a few inches off
the ground. I am blessed witha grass strip.
I think it's time to caibrate the air speed indicator and, more
importantly, figure out the power-off stall as indicated.
I'm think about getting up to about 2000' and holdiing altitude, reducing
the tach to about
4000, easing it off until either I feel a burble or a nose drop. Note the
IAS, and voila do it again until I have repeatable results. Does this
sound like a reasonable plan?
thanks in advance.
Bruce Schimmel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skip(at)netline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Photography from ultralights |
>I HAVE A FRIEND UP IN ZION , IL. WHAT HE DID WAS HE MADE YOKE THAT
>WENT AROUND HIS CAM CORDER THEN HE CUT OUT A PLATE OUT OF A PEACE OF
>>The first time I tried it, the camera strap unbuckled my 4-point
>>harness--and I'm in an Ultrastar with no enclosure. Yesterday, after
Maybe it's time to re-invent an old idea? Way back in the '50s and the
relatively early days of modern day sky-diving, we used to mount a
movie camera on our helmets. A VCR mounted on a helmet would still
seem to be a good idea. (especially on an Ultrastar :)
Skip K4TMA
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Photography from ultralights |
On Wed, 11 Jun 1997, skip staub wrote:
> Maybe it's time to re-invent an old idea? Way back in the '50s and the
> relatively early days of modern day sky-diving, we used to mount a
> movie camera on our helmets. A VCR mounted on a helmet would still
> seem to be a good idea. (especially on an Ultrastar :)
>
I mounted a light Sony camcorder to the side of my helmet, hoping for this
to be a good way to be able to capture whatever I look at, and also have
my body provide the vibration absorption for smooth shots. However, i
never used it because the counter-balance needed on the other side of the
helmet would've made the whole thing too uncomfortable. A top mount
might be pretty good, assuming you don't have any windscreen overhead,
and also that it clears the wing.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
| Subject: | Sobering reminder |
This article appeared in yesterday's Philadelphia Inquirer, and I
retreived it from
http://www2.phillynews.com/inquirer/97/Jun/11/pa_west/WCRAS11.htm
It is rumored that the pilot was "buzzing" a Dairy Queen and hit a power
line with a wing.
The passenger is OK, I believe.
The aircraft was a Firestar. As it mentions in the article, it was
illegally overweight, carried too much fuel (the article should have
said gallons, not pounds,) and the pilot was not licensed.
Wedn
esday, June 11, 1997
Ultralight plane was too heavy, say officials
investigating crash
INQUIRER CORRESPONDENT
GILBERTSVILLE -- Preliminary investigation of Monday's fatal crash of a
single-engine ultralight aircraft has revealed a few abnormalities in
the plane's operation, officials said yesterday.
According to standard procedure, only one person is supposed to operate
an ultralight, and in this case two people were seated in the aircraft,
said an Federal Aviation Administration spokeswoman in New York.
The only reason two people would be in an ultralight would be for
instruction, which did not appear to apply in this case, the FAA
spokeswoman said.
In addition, the aircraft was over its 254-pound limit, she said.
Ultralights have a five-pound fuel capacity, but the craft was carrying
10 pounds of fuel, the spokeswoman said.
The aircraft plunged about 8 p.m. Monday into the parking lot of the
Gilbertsville Shopping Center. Mark Robbins, 39, of Collegeville, was
operating the plane and was pronounced dead at the scene, police said.
A passenger, Robin Santee, 32, of Eagleville, was flown in stable
condition by helicopter to Lehigh Valley Hospital near Allentown, police
said. Yesterday, the hospital would not release information on Santee's
condition.
After Santee was rescued, the FAA impounded the ultralight. But the
spokeswoman said yesterday that the FAA would not handle a full
investigation of the crash because the ultralight was not a registered
aircraft and the operator was not a registered pilot. The FAA will offer
its assistance to local police if needed, the spokeswoman said.
The National Transportation Safety Board also is not involving itself in
the accident investigation because it considers the ultralight a
recreation vehicle, said Dennis Jones, an NTSB spokesman in New Jersey.
Jones, too, indicated that local police would handle the investigation.
Douglass Township Police Cpl. Linwood Cole said this was the first time
in his 18 years on the force that such an aircraft had crashed in his
jurisdiction in northern Montgomery County.
Cole said yesterday that he was able to interview a few witnesses who
saw the ultralight crash. He said the plane ``was circling in the sky
and just nose-dived.'' The aircraft flipped over after hitting the
ground. ``Witnesses tell me the engine was running when it went down,''
Cole said. ``Nobody knows what happened. It circled and went down.''
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tswartz(at)prolog.net (Terry Swartz) |
| Subject: | N number application |
In applying for N number you need the affidavit of ownership for Amateur
Built. On that application it asks for serial number of engine which I do
not have yet. Will FAA issue N numbers without engine serial number? How
long has it been taking for next available N number?
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Rotax oil tank substitute |
>Does anyone know where I can buy the Rotax oil injection tank for 582/618,
>(Rotax part number 881465)? This is the one with cap and bracket included.
> I have called LEAF, CPS, KOLB, Greensky Ohio, and there are none to be found.
> I have heard one person say they are on backorder from the Rotax factory in
>Austria. I would appreciate any pointers to known sources, or dealers'
>phone numbers I could call and ask. Thanks a lot guys!
Jim and all,
I copied another builder I saw at Sun'NFun a couple of years ago who used a
stock fuel tank made for a gas grass trimmer/edger instead of the $115 Rotax
tank. It comes with a steel bracket that can be easily modified to fit
under the forward head bolts of a 582. The surfaces of the bracket must be
completly flat under the nuts as water can flow out from the stud cavity if
not. Also applying some RTV under the bracket and some high temp grease
under the head nut is important to prevent any water leaking. Same goes for
the radiator bracket too for that matter. The tank holds 3.5 pints of oil.
I connected it to the Rotax with auto fuel hose and included a filter - one
of those glass type that unscrews to replace the filter element. I tested
the set up to make sure that the oil flow was ample throught the filter.
The tank sits just about as high as the stock Rotax tank. The advantages
were cost at $22 and does not block air flowing into the radiators as it
sits in front of the engine. The disadvantages are that it does not have a
low level sender and it is not translucent (I made a dip stick wire with
pint marks). I also made a heat sink (maybe not needed) that I installed as
a part of the bracket to shield the area between the (plastic) tank and the
(hot) engine head.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (4.7 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N number application |
> In applying for N number you need the affidavit of ownership for Amateur
> Built. On that application it asks for serial number of engine which I
do
> not have yet. Will FAA issue N numbers without engine serial number?
How
> long has it been taking for next available N number?
I waited until my engine arrived before sending in the registration request
letter, I doubt if you could talk them into taking it without the SN. My
initial letter was sent on 2-19-97 and I received an N number and official
registration application on 3-22-97. At that point I sent the $5 for
registration along with my completed application, but haven't received the
final papers yet. You're allowed to use a copy of the registration
application that they send you as temporary registration. This allows you
to get the plane inspected and flown without having to wait for the final
certificate to arrive. I was worried about being held up by the paperwork,
but in retrospect, I ordered my engine way too early.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A Lass & A Lack <rcarroll(at)cyberhighway.net> |
I earlier thought I had a seller with a 377-FireFly, but he changed his
mind. Now I'm again stuck with no Kolb and I would like to know if there
may be anyone on the 'left-coast' that would be interested in selling
their Kolb, of any type or vintage, single or 2-place.
Please reply to me via e-mail at: rcarroll(at)cyberhighway.net
Thanks, Ron
Independence, Oregon (7S5)
________________________________________________________________________________
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id ;
| From: | "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)bscn.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: N number application |
----------
> From: Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)prolog.net>
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: N number application
> Date: Thursday, June 12, 1997 11:45 AM
>
> In applying for N number you need the affidavit of ownership for Amateur
> Built. On that application it asks for serial number of engine which I
do
> not have yet. Will FAA issue N numbers without engine serial number?
How
> long has it been taking for next available N number?
>
> Terry
Hi, Terry.
Yes, you CAN register an aircraft without an engine serial number. I did
it a couple of years ago. Just leave the engine serial number off but
include the manufacturer and model. We had no problem with that type of
submittal.
Cari
My name is King; my house is a dome; and its MY road.
124 King Dome Rd.
kingdome(at)bscn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Harty <jwharty(at)webmart.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sobering reminder |
Scott Bentley wrote:
>
> This article appeared in yesterday's Philadelphia Inquirer, and I
> retreived it from
> http://www2.phillynews.com/inquirer/97/Jun/11/pa_west/WCRAS11.htm
>
> It is rumored that the pilot was "buzzing" a Dairy Queen and hit a power
> line with a wing.
>
> The passenger is OK, I believe.
>
> The aircraft was a Firestar. As it mentions in the article, it was
> illegally overweight, carried too much fuel (the article should have
> said gallons, not pounds,) and the pilot was not licensed.
This is exactly the kind of irresponsible action that brings on threats
of regulation. Note that the article was *very* clear that the UL (and,
by implication, all ULs) was not regulated in any fashion. At least
they didn't pour gasoline on the fire by going on and on about how the
pilot was endangering others, but you can count on the fact that not all
reporters/writers who covered this tale were so generous.
If a small child had been injured or -- God forbid -- killed by this
dope, you could count on public outcry, fueled by an over-zealous press,
directed at the FAA and the blatant disregard they had for the safety of
children, blah, blah, blah...
I've never seen this kind of flagrant disregard for the sport or the
safety of others and I hope never to hear of it again. We are a
self-policed industry and incidents like this are NOT good news to the
VAST, VAST majority of responsible participants. What's that about one
bad apple???
Sorry for the diatribe; I had to get that off my chest.
L8R AV8Rs,
John
PS: Thank goodness the passenger survived. It's fortunate that only
the one responsible for the act suffered the consequences.
--
************************************************************
* * *
* John W. Harty, EE (UMR '92) * EAA# 549251 *
* e-mail: jwharty(at)webmart.net * Fly Low, Fly Light! *
* * *
************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Establishing stall speeds |
Bruce Schimmel wrote:
>
> I am the happy owner of an FSII with a 503 and an IVO two-blade.
> I've got about an hour of time, and am able to make reasonably good
> landings. Usually I come in at about 65ias and hold off a few inches off
> the ground. I am blessed witha grass strip.
>
> I think it's time to caibrate the air speed indicator and, more
> importantly, figure out the power-off stall as indicated.
>
> I'm think about getting up to about 2000' and holdiing altitude, reducing
> the tach to about
> 4000, easing it off until either I feel a burble or a nose drop. Note the
> IAS, and voila do it again until I have repeatable results. Does this
> sound like a reasonable plan?
>
> thanks in advance.
> Bruce Schimmel
I have two suggestions: 1) When you slow down to stall speed, used
the rudders to keep the wings level, not the ailerons. 2) Don't assume
that the stall that you get at low rpm settings is like a power off
stall.
On my 377 Firestar, the engine off stalls come on much quicker and
the nose drops farther along with some altitude loss, compared to very
gentle stalls with the engine at idle.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lost my seller |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
RON
BUD DeGRAFF IS SELLING HIS KOLB M III ( THE BUD LIGHT ) IT IS
A REAL NICE PLANE WITH ALL THE INST. YOU NEED HE IS THE ONE THAT HAS
THE CAM CORDER SET UP IN HIS PLANE WITH THE 3.5 OR 5 in. TV FOR IN
FLIGHT MONITOR HIS PHONE NO. IS (847 ) 872-5756
RICK LIBERSAT N106RL
writes:
>I earlier thought I had a seller with a 377-FireFly, but he changed
>his
>mind. Now I'm again stuck with no Kolb and I would like to know if
>there
>may be anyone on the 'left-coast' that would be interested in selling
>their Kolb, of any type or vintage, single or 2-place.
>
>Please reply to me via e-mail at: rcarroll(at)cyberhighway.net
>
>Thanks, Ron
>
>Independence, Oregon (7S5)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Del Armstrong <dela(at)seas.rochester.edu> |
I'll keep this brief. Please feel free to contact either myself or my
partner (see below) if you have any questions about this plane.
Del Armstrong
For Sale:
KOLB Twinstar Mk-II. 70 Hrs TT. 10 Gal Fuel, Rotax 503, BRS,
Dual-Strobes, Radio Antenna, 3-Blade Ivo. Basic instruments plus
CHT/EGT. Hangared. Clean. $11,000 OBO. 716-335-7545, RLafford(at)cldx.com.
Picture at http://www.ceas.rochester.edu:/users/dela/flying.html.
Hangared at Honeoye Falls, near Rochester NY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly second flight questions |
>The trim on the right wing is to counter the common problem of the Kolbs
>wanting to turn left - Obviously the previous owner bent the tab alittle
>too far. Before taking it off, would recommend straightening it alittle
>and try it again.
>
Thanks for the info! I'll definitely straighten (or trim down) the tab
before taking it off altogether. I've never heard of Kolbs wanting
to turn left... They actually want to roll to the left? (As opposed to
yaw which would require a rudder tab?) Any idea what causes this?
Thanks again!
-Jon-
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly second flight questions |
On Fri, 13 Jun 1997, Jon Steiger wrote:
> >The trim on the right wing is to counter the common problem of the Kolbs
> >wanting to turn left - Obviously the previous owner bent the tab alittle
> >too far. Before taking it off, would recommend straightening it alittle
> >and try it again.
> >
>
> Thanks for the info! I'll definitely straighten (or trim down) the tab
> before taking it off altogether. I've never heard of Kolbs wanting
> to turn left... They actually want to roll to the left? (As opposed to
> yaw which would require a rudder tab?) Any idea what causes this?
>
The list went a few rounds on this thread recently, some reporting a need
for yaw trim. I believe the biggest factor in determining yaw tendency
on a Kolb is the pitch angle of the engine thrust line. Higher up and
the clockwise swirl from the prop (aka torque) pushes the vert stab to
the left, causing a right yaw. Lower down means some of the top half
of the prop swirl hits the rudder, and this half of the swirl is going
right so would push the vert stab right, causing a left yaw. Thurst line
can be adjusted by shims on the front or rear motor mounts.
More torque (higher power, slower speeds) increases these effects. On
my plane at full power climb it wants to go right but at cruise and high
speed it is yaw neutral :-), so feeding left rudder on max climb is fine
w/ me.
P-factor on Rotax powered planes (clockwise prop rotation) causes a left
yaw. It apparently is not nearly as strong as torque; otherwise, at least
on my plane, it would reduce my need to compensate w/ left rudder.
left-right-left-right ...confused enf?!!!
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
Just a quick spam for a friend:
For Sale - Kolb FS II w/Rotax 503 DCDI completed 1995; hydraulic brakes,
750-lb BRS chute, wheel pants, enclosure, oil injection, and many other
options; white with orange/blue trim, Aerothane finish, excellent
workmanship. $15,000. Located in Rome, GA. E-mail JR(at)rometool.com or call
(706) 802-0321
Sorry if anyone is offended, but it's a GREAT UL.
Charlie:
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location |
writes:
<< Just a short note on antennae. The co-ax must indeed be of the same
impedance as the output of the radio (in this case 50 ohm). Now not only
must the impedance of the cable match that of the radio so too must that of
the antenna match that of the cable (each time you have an impedance
mismatch you get a reflection of the signal which results in a standing wave
in the cable and that much less of you signal going out into the air).
These simple antennas we are using are quarter wave antennae which if cut to
that length (1/4 wave length) result in a 50 ohm impedance. As far as the
ground plane goes it is there to provide the quarter wave antenna a
reflecting surface so it can have an imaginary second element going the
other direction (like a di-pole). The ground plane should be at least 1/4
wave length in radius from the mounting point of the antenna (that is a 1/2
wave lengths diameter).
The bit about not being allowed to cut the co-ax is only true if you have a
mismatched impedance on the antenna. Along the length of the co-ax the
resistive and reactive components of the impedance change as the wave
travels down the cable (that is the standing wave which gives you the SWR
you may have heard about). If you have a mismatch then you have this
situation and can reduce the SWR by cutting the co-ax to the exact length to
give you an impedance transformer between the 50 ohm of the radio and the ??
ohm of the antenna. But if you stick to the 1/4 wave length and the ground
plane then your antenna impedance is only resistive and your cable can be
any length you wish.
For a fast calculation of a quarter wave length use L=234/F where L is the
length of a 1/4 wave in feet and F is the frequency in MHz. So for 121.5
MHz the 1/4 wave antenna should be 1.9259 feet long.
My two cents worth.
Adrio
>>
There were 3 parts of this message I loved.... The 1st part, "just a short
note"
2nd
part....the middle
3rd
part...."my 2 cents worth"
Adrio, congratulations on a difficult topic made understandable
GeoR38
ps. your last 9 represents .0108 inches which is tight but measureable
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I've thought about crow hops quite a bit and never been too crazy about
the
idea. It just seems like your asking for a minor accident as a possible
trade-off for avoiding a major one. I'm planning a compromise for my first
flight where I will start off as a crow hop, but remain in that mode only
long
enough to confirm that there's no severe rigging problem. At that point, I
will transition to full throttle (with plenty of runway left still) and
establish a normal climb. With any luck, I won't even hit any signs :-) I
sure am glad that story had a happy ending.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net >>
I agree with your logic Russell, but the only thing that I can think of that
makes your minor casualty instead of a major one a plausible argument is what
I call, for the lack of a decent name, Mind Freeze.
It has happened even to me but only on my first solo flight in a glider in
Las Cruzes, NM back in '80. The realization that, I was the sole instrument
capable of reading the Future or having no Future at all, ( I was at 200Ft up
and behind the tow plane) and it was kind of dawning on me that I held the
key to my own immediate future in my hand and feet and I got real scared, I
guess. I don't really remember being scared, but I must have been because I
heard myself ultimately talking to my instructor who normally was in the back
seat of the Schweitzer 233, but, upon real inspection, he was absent, indeed,
as planned.
Well, I overcame the fear of relying on myself, and landed ok, but I never
forget the experience and have seen others develop Mind Freeze as well, and
I'm sure some have not faired so well, as a good portion of accidents seem to
happen on Firsts!
But I agree with you that it is easier to fly when you are "up" instead of
close to the ground when you are toying with Mother Earth and her surprises.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Hinkelmann <whink(at)mindspring.com> |
>Return-Path:
>Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 11:28:17 -0600
>From: William Hinkelmann <William.Hinkelmann1(at)bridge.bst.bls.com>
>Subject: Fabric
>To: Home Base
>
> Looking for p 103 fabric to cover the wings on my FS2. need aprox 50'
>anyone know of a good ( cheap/reasonable ) place to buy stits covering??
>Have plenty of poly brush. probably need more poly tac. also need rib
>tape.
> Looking at using Zinc Chromate instead of Epoxy Chromate for the steel.
>Anyone have any trouble with Zinc Chromate and MEK?
>
_____________________
William Hinkelmann
whink(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly boom level ?? |
writes:
<< on Stieger asked about the tailboom being level or raised during level
flight in a Firefly;;;;;;; In the MK-3 in is raised a foot or two ,,,, I
would GUESS the F F would too BUT,,, it is a different plane _____ anybody
else?????????????????
Jim Kmet
>>
Yes it is a different plane and that is why, I think, the Firestar, and all
the other Kolbs are considered "stable......because the angle of incidence of
the wing and the horizontal stabilizer are not the same.....If you look at
the styrene gliders of today (not yesterday...been there, done that) you'll
notice that stability is not achieved by having a lot of dihedral in the
wings, but is achieved in the angle of incidence between the wing and the
horizontal stabilizer....the same condition that exists on the Kolb. The good
things that come out of that, that I'm aware of, is that if you forget to put
in the pin of your bottom flying wires in the stabilizer, I'll bet (someone
else's money, of course ) that they won't fold up anyway as they are loaded
down under normal flying conditions. The other good thing is that it creates
a stabile, slow, flying condition due to greater drag. It is probably the
main reason that if you advance the throttle much, the plane wants to climb.
It also should explain why the wing bottom is not flat to the horizon wnen
cruising.
Well, that's my 2 cents, now, someone can blow me away and I'll enjoy it.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Cullen <chuck(at)kronos.com> |
| Subject: | failed inspection |
EAA Chapter 279 Kolb Mark III is almost ready to fly.
I thought I'd mention the following as something to watch out for
when getting a Mk III inspected by the FAA.
The FAA guy wouldn't sign off on the Kolb yet.
He did not like the way the push rods for the ailerons
and the push rods for the flaps touched when the controls
were at maximum travel.
Someone tried bending the flap control horn outward toward the wing tip.
This would give a little more clearance so the push rods would not touch.
(The angle of the control horn bend is greatly exagerated
because this is ascii graphics).
flap wing tip ->
| \
| \
cage | \ <- flap control horn bent outward toward wing tip.
| + Originally it was vertical.
| /
| / <- flap push rod.
| / push rod attatches to control horn at the '+'
| /
|/
One of the control horns broke while bending it.
Snapped it off just above where the flap push rod attatches.
The control horn is mostly just a tube and can't take a lot of
bending apparently. He plans to weld it back on.
Any thoughts or comments on this whole incident welcome.
chuck(at)kronos.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Hi Rusty,
Yesterday i finally caved and bought a GPS, the Garmin 38. I hate
to sound like a techno-geek, but these things are awesome!!! I thought
i was generally up-to-date/hip with todays electronics stuff, but
i'm blown away with what these things do -- and for only $140!
Since you rebought the BRS that you originally bought then cancelled
then rebought, then were turned down for (again) :-), then finally
bought..., i felt obliged to re-buy the comm radio too. (Other Kolb
friends: I had cancelled my radio order 7 months ago when i got kicked
out of my local Fed Funded airport.) Should get that in a week or two
and start trying to put together head-set, antennae, PTT.
With all this fun stuff I don't know when i'll have time to go flying!
PS: Rusty, sorry if i skipped some of the steps in your BRS purchase. :-)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
<< >Anyone have any trouble with Zinc Chromate and MEK? >>
Don't even think about it. The poly brush will disolve the zinc chromate
instantly and it will become bubbly goop on the aluminum. Alll of you hard
work will be for naught and you will have to start over again. (Does this
sound like the voice of experience?) The reason why you have to use epoxy
primer is that when properly cured it will not be disolved by the poly tack,
poly brush.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
| Subject: | Grand Rapids EIS and Service... |
I bought my Engine Information System from Grand Rapids Technology in
September of 1996. My Mark III now has 12 hours on it, and I'm having
an intermittent failure of the unit.
In general, I've been very impressed with the unit, and the service and
advice I got from Grand Rapids Technology when I bought it. So I was
fairly optimistic when I called to report the problem.
I spoke to Greg at GRT for a half hour or so. He carefully reviewed
with me the problem, and agreed it was probably a defective unit. We
talked about some software issues, and he made certain that the unit he
would send me would correctly replace my unit (which is a few revisions
old.)
Then he said he'd ship me a replacement today, or tomorrow at the
latest. No charge. No hassle. He wanted to make sure I'd have it by
the weekend.
That's service. I don't have the replacement unit yet, but I still
think this company is great.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon Steiger) |
| Subject: | FireFly: Refueling, fuel sender, instruments, update, etc. |
Oops, this was meant to be a quick post, but it got kinda
long. :)
1) Refueling:
I just tried to refuel my FireFly with the wings unfolded
for the first time. I've refueled it before, but always with
the wings folded back and out of the way. That's easy. What I
had to go through today wasn't. :)
I ended up using a 2 gallon gas can with a spout that can be
shut off. I filled the 2 gallon can, put some towels on top of
the wing, got the can up there and the spout pointed toward
a funnel in the fuel tank, and opened it up. I filled the
2 gallon can again when it was empty and went through the
whole procedure again. This is not how I want to refuel. :)
Does anyone have any suggestions for an easier method? The
tank is kind of a pain to take out of the plane, so I need
to be able to refuel with the tank still in place. The
best way I've been able to think of would be a hose with a
primer bulb on it, so I can create a siphon... I could put
a large (5 gallon) gas can somewhere higher than the fuel tank,
(on the top of the wing, or a stepladder, perhaps?) Then,
I just start the siphon and let it run. Obviously, the
bigger the hose, the better. I went to Wal-mart to look
for such a siphon, but they don't sell 'em. :P I guess
I could make one, but I have no idea where to get the
supplies. CPS catalog maybe? If I was to do that, I'd like
to use some fairly big hose, maybe a half inch or so. So
far, that's the easiest method I've been able to come up with.
Anyone have any others? (Another I've thought of is to unhook
the wing, swivel it, and let it sit on the ground while
refueling, but that is also kind of a pain, if you know what
I mean...)
2) Fuel sender.
The fuel sender in my tank doesn't seem to go all the way to
the bottom. I haven't looked really close, but it looks like
I've got about a half gallon or a gallon of unuseable fuel. Last
time I was up flying, my engine started to sound as if it was
running out of fuel. (I had about a gallon left.) I headed for
the ground from about 1700' AGL and made a quick landing. (I
don't have any power off practice at all yet) As I landed, the
engine quit. It looked as if fuel was getting all the way up to
the carb though. It took several pulls, but the engine caught
and I taxied it back to the hangar. Does this sound like the
sender might have been out of the fuel and was sucking air
briefly?
Any ideas or comments about increasing the useable fuel?
I thought about having the sender come off the bottom of the tank,
but I suppose that would allow any garbage in the tank to sink
right in there and clog it up. I could get a longer tube for
the sender I suppose...
I'm almost positive that an ultralight can have a larger
tank than 5 gallons, but it has to have some (un-tamperable)
mechanism whereby only 5 gallons is useable. Why not have a 5.5
or 6 gallon tank, with the sender going down to the 5 gallon mark?
With a tank that holds 5 gallons max, we're cheating ourselves out
of some legally useable range!
3) Instruments
My FireFly has a 3" altimeter, 3" airpseed, a 2" CHT/EGT, and
a Tinytach hourmeter/tachometer, and not a whole lot of room for
additional instruments. Unfortunately, the tinytach
only records hours, not minutes. :P This made it a pain for
me to log my flight time because I would have to use my watch
and I'd usually forget when I started. :) I think I've solved
the problem. I went to Wal-Mart and bought a digital stopwatch for
about 5 or 6 bucks. (Spalding, from the sporting goods dept.)
>From the fabric dept, I bought some "industrial strength" velcro,
which I trimmed for the stopwatch, and I stuck it on my panel. You
could easily take off the cord, but I routed it down the side of
the panel, and looped it around a bar near the flaperon handle.
(Built in safety wire!) :) If the velcro or the sticky stuff
ever fails, there's no way its going through the prop. The
stopwatch can't weigh more than a few ounces, but if weight is
an issue, its easily removeable! One half of the velcro stays
with the plane, but that's it! Also, you don't have to cut
the panel, and the whole thing is 100% reverseable. Another
great thing about this stopwatch is that it has a built in
clock and alarm. The clock has 12 or 24 hour modes. So, now
I can accurately guage the length of each flight, and now I've
got a clock to boot! :) Total cost is under ten bucks. You
won't find anything anywhere near that in a SkySports catalog. :)
BTW: I flew again on Sunday evening. Dead calm, the sun was
going down over the horizon, no one else was flying. I'm getting
a lot more comforatable with the plane, and for the first time,
I really had fun! :) I think I'm moving out of the "test
pilot" stage and into the "fly for fun" stage. :) Before I
feel comfortable enough to go any distance from the airport though,
I want to work on my idle and power off landings. Currently,
I'm carrying power all the way through to the ground. I take
it off while flying over the ground and settle in. Any
suggestions/warnings/etc as to how to transition to low
(and eventually no) power landings? What kind of glide ratio
can I expect? With that short wingspan, not a very high
one, I'd wager... (Though I hope I'm wrong!) :)
Sorry for the long post! :) As usual, I'd appreciate
any advice or comments about any of the above.
-Jon-
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McCann" <p305191(at)patriot.catia.gulfaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly: Refueling, fuel sender, instruments, update, etc. |
Cut...wack....
> Any ideas or comments about increasing the useable fuel?
> I thought about having the sender come off the bottom of the tank,
> but I suppose that would allow any garbage in the tank to sink
> right in there and clog it up. I could get a longer tube for
> the sender I suppose...
> I'm almost positive that an ultralight can have a larger
> tank than 5 gallons, but it has to have some (un-tamperable)
> mechanism whereby only 5 gallons is useable. Why not have a 5.5
> or 6 gallon tank, with the sender going down to the 5 gallon mark?
> With a tank that holds 5 gallons max, we're cheating ourselves out
> of some legally useable range!
Sec. 103.1 Applicability.
This part prescribes rules governing the operation of ultralight vehicles
in the United States. For the purposes of this part, an ultralight vehicle is
a vehicle that:
(a) Is used or intended to be used for manned operation in the air by a
single occupant;
(b) Is used or intended to be used for recreation or sport purposes only;
(c) Does not have any U.S. or foreign airworthiness certificate; and
(d) If unpowered, weighs less than 155 pounds; or
(e) If powered:
(1) Weighs less than 254 pounds empty weight, excluding floats and safety
devices which are intended for deployment in a potentially catastrophic
situation;
(2) Has a fuel capacity not exceeding 5 U.S. gallons;
(3) Is not capable of more than 55 knots calibrated airspe at full power
in level flight; and
(4) Has a power-off stall speed which does not exceed 24 knots calibrated
airspeed.
As you can see. 5 gals max capacity.
On line FAR's for 103:
http://www.faa.gov/avr/AFS/FARS/far-103.txt
John McCann
PPSEL
UL Wanna be
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
<< Can I just paint over it with epoxy primer before I start with the poly
brush? >>
Start fresh. You ought to be able to wipe the zinc off with mek on a rag.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Aileron counterbalances, fueling idea. |
I am not sure who was asking about the aileron counterbalances, but...
I ordered a set for the MKIII. Last night I looked them over and they should
be very easy to install and set in my finished (covered and painted) aircraft.
The instructions say to drill out the end rib rivet (in the leading edge of
the aileron), insert the counterweight horn, align and rivet. Add more rivets
for torque. And set the weight by sliding the heavy part forward or aft while
watching for balance, with the push/pull tube disconnected from the inboard end
of the aileron torque tube. Looks easy, don't be afraid to add them to a
finished aircraft if you feel you need them. I am guessing they weigh about
6-7 lbs for the pair. Paint before installing (reminder to myself).
FUEL IDEA: Although not as cheap as five-gallon cans, here is what I have
done: I bought a barrel for 15.00 US. It is a reconditioned oil barrel.
It is spotless and shiney and dry inside (they steam-cleaned it). They also
painted it an ugly primer grey and pressure-checked it. I found it at our
local Greenway Coop oil co. Then I went to Northern Handyman headquarters
(tools, surplus, etc) and bought 15' of gasoline hose, a lever-type pump, a
really nice 10 micron filter/water trap, all for about 70.00 US. I also plan
to filter all fuel going into the barrel thru the MR FUNNEL, for water and
particles. I will use the barrel system for the plane, and also retire the
5-gallon cans in my garage and use the barrel to fuel my lawn mowers. Then
once a month I will completly empty it into my pickup, in case there is any
water collecting, and refill with fresh fuel. A hundred bucks but no more
gas cans. The barrel becomes part of the Kolb trailer next week.
The lever pump looks to have about 1.5 pints per stroke capacity. And if
you are interested, Northern does a mailorder catalog (1-800-533-5545).
Thanks to everyone who responded with Rotax oil tank ideas, I did find most
of what I needed from various sources, and had a friend manufacture the rest.
One week to PowerFin prop delivery and engine break-in!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly: Refueling |
> for such a siphon, but they don't sell 'em. :P I guess
> I could make one, but I have no idea where to get the
> supplies. CPS catalog maybe? If I was to do that, I'd like
> to use some fairly big hose, maybe a half inch or so. So
> far, that's the easiest method I've been able to come up with.
I've heard people rave about the "jiggle" type siphons. CPS and LEAF both
have these. The hose diameter looks to be 1/2", but I think you have to
provide enough hose to reach your tank.
CPS 1997 catalog- p. 258, part# 8813, $9.95.
LEAF 95-96 catalog- p. 169, part# H7256, $9.95.
Good luck,
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Establishing stall speeds |
>I am the happy owner of an FSII with a 503 and an IVO two-blade.
>I've got about an hour of time, and am able to make reasonably good
>landings. Usually I come in at about 65ias and hold off a few inches off
>the ground. I am blessed witha grass strip.
>
>I think it's time to caibrate the air speed indicator and, more
>importantly, figure out the power-off stall as indicated.
>
>I'm think about getting up to about 2000' and holdiing altitude, reducing
>the tach to about
>4000, easing it off until either I feel a burble or a nose drop. Note the
>IAS, and voila do it again until I have repeatable results. Does this
>sound like a reasonable plan?
>
>thanks in advance.
>Bruce Schimmel
>
>
Best way to check stall speeds is to do it during a descent. The fact that
you are descending makes no difference because you are at a constant 1 gee.
(ie. you are not *accelerating* up or down, just descending) Set your
throttle (eg. to idle or engine off) and slowly decrease your angle of
descent. You will get an extremely accurate number. My Ultrastar stalls
exactly at 27 mph (indicated, at the atmospheric conditions/altitude that I
tested it at). Until I was informed of this possibility, I could never get
an accurate fix because of the drag of the airplane causing such a rapid
decrease in airspeed in level flight.
This rapid deceleration is why you hear recommendations to 1st time fliers
to land with just a little power--to increase the window of time you have
on flare-out to find that smooth path to the runway. I would reccommend
that 65 ias is too fast for your approach. I would guess you are using a
throttle setting and glide slope that would result in you not making the
field should your engine quit on approach. (I once helped a guy out who
didn't make it to the field (landing in plowed field) because his engine
quit when he throttled back to descend to airport. His redrive bearings
had gone out and the engine could not sustain rpm at reduced power.)
That being said, however, I generally come in with a good margin above my
stall speed just because I know my glide slope will be worse with engine
off than with idle (dramtically). If the engine should quit, the plan is
to slow down to my optimum glide speed and have approximately the same
glide path. Since slips are so ineffective in my Ultrastar, I also use
higher airspeed to kill altitude if I'm too high. I did an experiment last
Sunday (no on approach) of just how steep I would have to go with engine at
idle to reach 65 mph and I was amazed--I highly recommend it trying this,
just to experience what a big "parachute" a spinning prop can be.
.....................................................................
Mike Ransom internet: mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu (916) 754-6167
Programmer/Analyst, Dept of Agronomy & Range Science
University of California, Davis, U.S.A.
.....................................................................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly: Refueling, fuel sender, instruments, |
update, etc.
<9706170501.AA28252(at)mary.cs.fredonia.edu>
>Cut...wack....
>> Any ideas or comments about increasing the useable fuel?
>> I thought about having the sender come off the bottom of the tank,
>> but I suppose that would allow any garbage in the tank to sink
>> right in there and clog it up. I could get a longer tube for
>> the sender I suppose...
>> I'm almost positive that an ultralight can have a larger
>> tank than 5 gallons, but it has to have some (un-tamperable)
>> mechanism whereby only 5 gallons is useable. Why not have a 5.5
>> or 6 gallon tank, with the sender going down to the 5 gallon mark?
>> With a tank that holds 5 gallons max, we're cheating ourselves out
>> of some legally useable range!
>
> Sec. 103.1 Applicability.
[...]
> (2) Has a fuel capacity not exceeding 5 U.S. gallons;
[...]
>
>As you can see. 5 gals max capacity.
Here's the regulation I was thinking of. From AC 103-7:
=========
19. MAXIMUM FUEL CAPACITY OF A POWERED ULTRALIGHT VEHICLE, The maximum fuel
capacity for a powered ultralight vehicle is 5 U.S. gallons. Any powered
ultralight with fuel tank(s) exceeding this capacity is ineligible for
operation as an ultralight vehicle,
a. Determination of Fuel Capacity. The total volume, including all
available space for usable and unusable fuel in the fuel tank or
tanks on the vehicle is the total fuel capacity. The fuel in the
lines, pump,, strainer,, and carburetor is not considered in a
calculation of total volume.
b. Use of an Artificial Means to Control Capacity.
( 1) Tanks which have a permanent standpipe or venting arrangement
to control capacity are permitted, but may be subject to
demonstration of the capacity if there is any reason to doubt
that the arrangement is effective.
(2) A temporary, detachable, or voluntarily-observed method for
restricting fuel capacity, such as a "fill-to" line, is not
acceptable.
==========
A "standpipe" is what I've been referring to as the "sender", right?
(The tube that comes down into the tank which is used to suck fuel into
the engine.) Looking specifically at AC 103-7, section 19,b,1, that would
seem to indicate that it is ok to use a larger capacity tank as long as the
standpipe can only access 5 gallons of it. I guess my theory hinges on
what the FAA considers to be a "permanent standpipe". In theory, a larger
standpipe could be put in there, but who'd want to keep switching them back
and forth? Sounds like a pain in the butt to me. :)
-Jon-
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Establishing stall speeds |
Perhaps I'm being dense, so please run this by me again. What I under your
sayng is thatI set up a descentbased on idle then *decrease* the angle of
attack. I think that is what I was reading.
=> >
> Best way to check stall speeds is to do it during a descent. The fact that
> you are descending makes no difference because you are at a constant 1 gee.
> (ie. you are not *accelerating* up or down, just descending) Set your
> throttle (eg. to idle or engine off) and slowly decrease your angle of
> descent. You will get an extremely accurate number. My Ultrastar stalls
> exactly at 27 mph (indicated, at the atmospheric conditions/altitude that I
> tested it at). Until I was informed of this possibility, I could never get
> an accurate fix because of the drag of the airplane causing such a rapid
> decrease in airspeed in level flight.
>
> This rapid deceleration is why you hear recommendations to 1st time fliers
> to land with just a little power--to increase the window of time you have
> on flare-out to find that smooth path to the runway. I would reccommend
> that 65 ias is too fast for your approach. I would guess you are using a
> throttle setting and glide slope that would result in you not making the
> field should your engine quit on approach. (I once helped a guy out who
> didn't make it to the field (landing in plowed field) because his engine
> quit when he throttled back to descend to airport. His redrive bearings
> had gone out and the engine could not sustain rpm at reduced power.)
>
> That being said, however, I generally come in with a good margin above my
> stall speed just because I know my glide slope will be worse with engine
> off than with idle (dramtically). If the engine should quit, the plan is
> to slow down to my optimum glide speed and have approximately the same
> glide path. Since slips are so ineffective in my Ultrastar, I also use
> higher airspeed to kill altitude if I'm too high. I did an experiment last
> Sunday (no on approach) of just how steep I would have to go with engine at
> idle to reach 65 mph and I was amazed--I highly recommend it trying this,
> just to experience what a big "parachute" a spinning prop can be.
> .....................................................................
> Mike Ransom internet: mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu (916) 754-6167
> Programmer/Analyst, Dept of Agronomy & Range Science
> University of California, Davis, U.S.A.
> .....................................................................
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly: Refueling, fuel sender, instruments, update, etc. |
On Tue, 17 Jun 1997, Jon Steiger wrote:
> 1) Refueling:
i use a "mr funnel" with a 2 foot length of pvc crammed onto the small
end. the pvc end goes into the tank, and the funnel is up top where i
just poor into from whatever. Works fine but a little slow going thru
mr funnel, no big deal. Also, during flight i pull the pvc off the
funnel for easier stowage of both.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Neilsen <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | failed inspection -Reply |
I went home last night and checked out my MKIII and
my aileron control horns touch the flap push rods at
the max. I assume that the control stops that are in
the plans (that I haven't installed yet) were intended to
keep the controls from touching. Also if someone was
bending on my control horns I would replace them
real quick. Also even if the control horns were
structurally sound they probably wouldn't clear the
wing when it came time to fold the wing.
Also I'm seeing comments on fueling. I had a real
problem since I permanentlly enclosed the rear part of
my MKIII. I built a remote fuel filler using a boat fuel
cap. You can see how I did it on my web page.
HTTP://pw2.netcom.com/neilsenr/my_pages.html
>>> Chuck Cullen 06/16/97
10:49am >>>
EAA Chapter 279 Kolb Mark III is almost ready to fly.
I thought I'd mention the following as something to
watch out for
when getting a Mk III inspected by the FAA.
The FAA guy wouldn't sign off on the Kolb yet.
He did not like the way the push rods for the ailerons
and the push rods for the flaps touched when the
controls
were at maximum travel.
Someone tried bending the flap control horn outward
toward the wing tip.
This would give a little more clearance so the push
rods would not touch.
(The angle of the control horn bend is greatly
exagerated
because this is ascii graphics).
flap wing tip ->
| \
| \
cage | \ <- flap control horn bent outward
toward wing tip.
| + Originally it was vertical.
| /
| / <- flap push rod.
| / push rod attatches to control horn at the
'+'
| /
|/
One of the control horns broke while bending it.
Snapped it off just above where the flap push rod
attatches.
The control horn is mostly just a tube and can't take a
lot of
bending apparently. He plans to weld it back on.
Any thoughts or comments on this whole incident
welcome.
chuck(at)kronos.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Establishing stall speeds |
>On Tue, 17 Jun 1997, Mike Ransom wrote:
>> Best way to check stall speeds is to do it during a descent. The fact that
>> you are descending makes no difference because you are at a constant 1 gee.
>> (ie. you are not *accelerating* up or down, just descending) Set your
>
>I've seen your post on this before and i think the 1st sentence should
>maybe be clarified. I can see your point, but it is certainly also
>true that a descent does not necessarily mean that you are at 1 G.
>The point is that you want to get into a controlled and slowly changing
>angle of attack at 1G. Settling into a slow speed descent is an easy
>way to do this. (Settling into slow speed level flight would be just as
>good, except then you would no longer be checking "power off" conditions.)
>
>-picky (aka Ben)
>
>
You are probably right. My excuse is the time it takes to compose clear
writing. The next sentence was: "Set your throttle (eg. to idle or engine
off) and slowly decrease your angle of descent" The key point is the
"slowly" part. It's not just that you are checking the "power off"
condition either. The whole point is that the slow change in airspeed
gives you the opportunity to peg the stall point more accurately.
It occurs to me now that testing of stall speed with power on would be
affected just slightly by the plane's angle relative to horrozontal (not
angle of attack), as the thrust of the prop can have a vertical component.
My guess is that it would be an insignificant difference at anything less
than say 30% power. The situation would be significantly different at high
power settings, eg. during full power climbout, where, as most of us are
aware, the downward component of the engine thrust contributes to the lift
of the airplane--which can result in a stall if the engine quits suddenly
if too close to stall speed on climbout. Then there's the thrust line
issues, but that's another discussion.
.....................................................................
Mike Ransom internet: mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu (916) 754-6167
Programmer/Analyst, Dept of Agronomy & Range Science
University of California, Davis, U.S.A.
.....................................................................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
I have used one of the jiggle siphons for several years, and they
are very efficient and foolproof. For awhile I sat the gas cans on a stand
to get them higher than the tanks in the airplane, but lately have used a
rope tossed over a rafter in the hangar, and it has a hook on the bottom end
so that the gas can is held about 1' lower than the leading edge right by
the passenger door. Since I am right handed , it is pretty easy to stand
there and do it. Eventually the plastic of the jiggle siphon gets stiff, and
I will get a longer length to attach to the brass jiggler.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselo EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jacques Goudreault <jgoudrea(at)netrover.com> |
Hy everyone.
I get a problem with the Rotax 532 on my Mark II, it ran well all winter
on ski,
then i change the main jet for summer flying, during the first run-up
the rpm was
only 5,600-5,700 for the first 5 second an then it drop under 5,000 an
stay there.
Trying to know if mixture is lean or rich, i slowly push on the primer
button, but the rpm drop lower.
I try step by step to reduce the jet size, with my smaless jet , the rpm
go to 6,000 for the first 5-6 second and drop to 5,000 and stay there.
I do not have an egt gage but i think mixture is to rich, and i don't
know why.
This engine has over 500 hrs, 150 since overhaul
If someone can help me i will appreciate
Regards
Jacques
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
I had the same thought with the pickup tube leaving half a gallon or so
of fuel, so I went to the snowmobile store and they have a fuel tube made
for the older skidoo I think that has a fuel fitler on the end of it that
will pick up off the bottom and filter what it gets. My worry was that a
steep bank with a gallon or so of gas would leave the stiff pickup tube
sucking air. This was the pickup goes where ever the most gas is. Cost is
about $7.00.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Neilsen <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
The address is
Http://pw2.netcom.com/~neilsenr/my_pages.html I
forgot the ~
>>> Richard Pike 06/18/97
05:26am >>>
Tried to see your picture on your web page, but
got the
refused/moved/outdated/etc. msg. If it gets back up,
let me know.
Richard Pike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Tue, 17 Jun 1997, Larry Cottrell wrote:
> I had the same thought with the pickup tube leaving half a gallon or so
> of fuel, so I went to the snowmobile store and they have a fuel tube made
> for the older skidoo I think that has a fuel fitler on the end of it that
> will pick up off the bottom and filter what it gets. My worry was that a
> steep bank with a gallon or so of gas would leave the stiff pickup tube
> sucking air. This was the pickup goes where ever the most gas is. Cost is
> about $7.00.
I handled this by buying a small ACE brass hose fitting and clamping it
to the pickup end. It really does nothing more than act as a weight
to the end of the pickup. I added a second hole (~3/32") radially
right near the tip so that it cannot suck onto the bottom of the tank.
I also put a tiny AL tube (~1/8 diam, thin wall) inside the pickup
line to keep it from curling up inside. This tube is maybe 3/4 as long
as the pickup line so that it can still flex some at the top.
This system has had no problems (and i've inspected it to be sure). I've
run down to *precious little* fuel remaining in the tank. :-)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine probleme |
>Hy everyone.
>
>I get a problem with the Rotax 532 on my Mark II, it ran well all winter
>on ski,
>then i change the main jet for summer flying, during the first run-up
>the rpm was
>only 5,600-5,700 for the first 5 second an then it drop under 5,000 an
>stay there.
>Trying to know if mixture is lean or rich, i slowly push on the primer
>button, but the rpm drop lower.
>I try step by step to reduce the jet size, with my smaless jet , the rpm
>go to 6,000 for the first 5-6 second and drop to 5,000 and stay there.
>I do not have an egt gage but i think mixture is to rich, and i don't
>know why.
>This engine has over 500 hrs, 150 since overhaul
>If someone can help me i will appreciate
>
>Regards
>
>Jacques
>
> What size prop are you running? It is possible that the engine made
enough power during the winter because of the cold denser air but the warmer
air now is not allowing the engine to develop as much power .
Also the reason that it will go to 6,000 for a few seconds and then
drop off to 5,000 is that a two cycle engine that is at minimum but normal
operating temperature will make "flash horsepower". This is the power it
makes when slightly cool, and before it gets to full operating temperature.
Years ago when racing motocross, I was always in front out of the gate
because I was the last one to start the engine before the flag dropped. (No,
I didn't figure this out myself, I learned it from Dirt Bike magazine
telling about how 2-cycles behaved on the dynamometor.)
See if you can borrow a slightly smaller prop, or if you have an
adjustable prop, take out a little pitch, then re-jet to normal jetting and
see what happens. A 532 Rotax that only turns 6,000 rpm static is slightly
overpropped. You might do that on a 503 or 582, but not a 532. If I have too
much pitch in my Ivoprop, my engine behaves very much the same way.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P, (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To All,
My time is up to 6 hours now. Today, I just flew for fun. No testing, no
nuttin. It was very relaxing. I flew most of the time at about 1000 feet
and cruised at about 5600 rpm. My speed was about 55 according to my gps.
I flew at full throttle for a few minutes and checked the gps speed to be
approximately 80 mph. A really pretty yellow bi-plane was nearby and we
kinda looked each other over.
I set the aileron bungee trim to fly pretty much hands off. I had to hold a
little left rudder most of the time to keep the slip string centered. I may
install a rudder tab at some point, but not now... The weather was warm
even at that altitude. I have included a hand towel as part of my summer
equipment package for the cockpit. I will tie a corner off to make sure it
stays there too. We will be gone on an RV trip for about a month. I think
I will take the doors off before my next flight. The engine did not
overheat and was very smooth.
I left the airport area for the first time and flew some familiar areas
nearby. I dropped down to 500 feet for awhile to enjoy the scenery better.
There are many fields in my area that provide potential landing sites.
I did do several runway flights practicing touch and goes. I can get in
quite a few in the 3000 feet I have. My self criticism is that I needed to
watch directional control a bit more today. I didn't stay on the center
line as well as I could have and I only had a mild cross wind to contend
with. Maybe I got too relaxed.
Outa here for a month!
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (6 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jacques Goudreault <jgoudrea(at)netrover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine probleme |
Hy Richard
Thanks for answer, I use a 68" warp drive 3 blades pitch at 8
20',but same
pitch for 6 or 7 years, it is not realy 532 , it is a 537 snowmobile and
it's
about the same engine exept for exhaust port, electronic ign. and oil
inj.
the carb 2X36mm mick. #320 main jet for winter, #290 for summer.
I know it is overpropped, but it ran that way for 540 hrs, I
use to
operate it at 5000-5200 rpm for cruise speed around 55 mph (in a hurry
it may goes to
6000 and 80 mph).I think "flash horsepower"is not possible because I do
a lots of
run-up in a row with the same result.
I am going to reduce the pitch if I want to flight this
summer,
and look at this moore in deep before skis flying season.
Reagards
Jacques
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William H Hatfield <hatfield(at)tsixroads.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb Mark lll WANTED |
To All.
I'm in the market for a good used late model, well equiped, Mk lll. If
you know of one for sale please e-mail. Thanks. Bill Hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How do you lose a carbutetor? |
Aircraft: Mc Ardle KOLB MARK III, registration: N1144T
Injuries: 1 Serious.
On June 10, 1997 at 2045 eastern daylight time, a Kolb Mark III, homebuilt,
N1144T, sustained substantial damage during a forced landing in a field after
taking off from a private airstrip south of Findlay, Ohio. The private
pilot/owner, the sole occupant, received serious injuries. No flight plan was
filed and visual meteorological conditions did exist. The flight was
conducted under 14 CFR Part 91. According to the FAA Inspector on scene, the
pilot stated to the Hancock County Sheriff that he lost power shortly after
take off and attempted to return to the private airstrip. The pilot stated
that he realized that he was not going to make it back to the airstrip and
was forced
to land in the corn field. The Hancock County Sheriff noticed that one of the
two carburetors was missing from the Bombardier Rotax 582 engine when he
arrived on scene.
________________________________________________________________________________
Ransom) writes:
<<
Hi Rusty,
Yesterday i finally caved and bought a GPS, the Garmin 38. I hate
to sound like a techno-geek, but these things are awesome!!! I thought
i was generally up-to-date/hip with todays electronics stuff, but
i'm blown away with what these things do -- and for only $140!
Since you rebought the BRS that you originally bought then cancelled
then rebought, then were turned down for (again) :-), then finally
bought..., i felt obliged to re-buy the comm radio too. (Other Kolb
friends: I had cancelled my radio order 7 months ago when i got kicked
out of my local Fed Funded airport.) Should get that in a week or two
and start trying to put together head-set, antennae, PTT.
With all this fun stuff I don't know when i'll have time to go flying!
PS: Rusty, sorry if i skipped some of the steps in your BRS purchase. :-)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>>
I must have been reading you guys too long cause I actually understood this.
GeoR38(at)AOL.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids EIS and Service... |
Bentley) writes:
<<
I bought my Engine Information System from Grand Rapids Technology in
September of 1996. My Mark III now has 12 hours on it, and I'm having
an intermittent failure of the unit.
In general, I've been very impressed with the unit, and the service and
advice I got from Grand Rapids Technology when I bought it. So I was
fairly optimistic when I called to report the problem.
I spoke to Greg at GRT for a half hour or so. He carefully reviewed
with me the problem, and agreed it was probably a defective unit. We
talked about some software issues, and he made certain that the unit he
would send me would correctly replace my unit (which is a few revisions
old.)
Then he said he'd ship me a replacement today, or tomorrow at the
latest. No charge. No hassle. He wanted to make sure I'd have it by
the weekend.
That's service. I don't have the replacement unit yet, but I still
think this company is great.
----------------------- Headers --------------------------------
From owner-kolb(at)intrig.com Mon Jun 16 15:20:24 1997
Return-Path: >
Glad to hear it , I think I'll get one for my Firestar KX
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids EIS and Service... |
Bentley) writes:
<<
I bought my Engine Information System from Grand Rapids Technology in
September of 1996. My Mark III now has 12 hours on it, and I'm having
an intermittent failure of the unit.
In general, I've been very impressed with the unit, and the service and
advice I got from Grand Rapids Technology when I bought it. So I was
fairly optimistic when I called to report the problem.
I spoke to Greg at GRT for a half hour or so. He carefully reviewed
with me the problem, and agreed it was probably a defective unit. We
talked about some software issues, and he made certain that the unit he
would send me would correctly replace my unit (which is a few revisions
old.)
Then he said he'd ship me a replacement today, or tomorrow at the
latest. No charge. No hassle. He wanted to make sure I'd have it by
the weekend.
That's service. I don't have the replacement unit yet, but I still
think this company is great.
----------------------- Headers --------------------------------
From owner-kolb(at)intrig.com Mon Jun 16 15:20:24 1997
Return-Path: >
Glad to hear it , I think I'll get one for my Firestar KX
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Bennett <sab(at)ultranet.com> |
| Subject: | RE: How do you lose a carbutetor? |
Actually, I've seen it happen. A friend was taxiing out in his Kitfox when
the engine suddenly started idling roughly and died. One carb was hanging
by the throttle and choke cables.
I've always thought that hanging those big heavy carbs on the end of a
rubber socket was a questionable design. On the other hand, it's probably
done intentionally to try to isolate the high-frequency vibration from the
carbs.
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you lose a carbutetor? |
Re: How do you lose a carbutetor?
Two words: Inadequate preflight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How do you lose a carbutetor? |
Either the carb was not properly mounted in the socket, or the socket was
deteriortated. also, I drilled the small tab on the carb and saftied it to
the other carb. The liklihood of loosing both is quite low. The key thing is
to pull on the carbs before each flight. That will show whether they are
loose or whether the rubber socket is cracking. ANY evidence of cacking is
cause to replace the sockets
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <IBIMIAMI(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Mark 111 ads |
Hello Bill, No problem. Pleasure to be of help...
>From the June Experimenter:
"Kolb Mk III - 1992, 503 DCDI Rotax. 102 hrs. Color, blues w/white background.
Lost medical, see March 1993 Experimenter, Members' Projects for picture.
$10,500
(847) 872-5756. Zion, Il."
June Sport Aviation: Nothing.
>From the May Kitplanes (somebody walked away with my June issue...):
"Must sell Kolb Mark III. Rotax 912 with in-flight adjustable prop. Many
extras $21,500 OBO.
(513) 685-3105."
>From the June Ultralight Flying:
"1993 Kolb Mark III - 503, like new with all the bells and whistles. Call Ken
for details. $12,000 or trade Kolb and Quicksilver Sprint II for Titan
Tornado.
(717) 489-7620 (Penn)."
"Kolb Mk. III - 110 TT, 582, Warp Drive, full instruments, strobes, full
enclosure, flies great! $13,500.
(414) 757-0871"
"New Kolb Mk III - DCDI 503, dual controls, full canopy, ballistic chute,
strobe, TT approximately 7 hours, loves the sky. $18,000 invested. Will sell
for $16,500. New project underway.
(904) 878-9047 Florida."
"Kolb Mark III - Rotax 503 DCDI, BRS, Ivo Prop, Matco wheels. See Kitplanes
8/96, page 53, 60 TTAFE. $11,000.
(330) 336-2777."
======================================================================
I've built about 25% of a Mark III and am finding it's harder to find the time
to build than I thought it would be. As a result, I am now looking at these
Ads myself and getting tempted to take a shortcut. If you do go to see any of
these - (or any other BBSE* Mk III's), I would be very interested in hearing
your unbiased opinion of them.
Good luck,
Peter Volum
Ibimaimi(at)msn.com
* Built By Somebody Else
-----Original Message-----
From: William H Hatfield
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 1997 12:23 PM
To: Peter Volum
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark 111 ads
Dear Peter,
I sent you a msg saying those planes were sold but I was thinking about
some that were advertised on the net. I sure would appreciate you
sending me info on those in the Ultralight Flyer. I have subscribed to
flyer but haven't received my first copy as yet. Thanks in advance and
hope to return the favor sometime. Bill Hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | How do you lose a carburetor? |
Just for what it's worth, our local DAR will not sign off a Rotax
powered homebuilt unless the engine has a carburetor restraining device to
insure that the carbs cannot come out of the spigots.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Gamble <Sun-tech(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Balance Masters
A Must For
Ultralight Safety and Comfort
Balance Masters are PATENTED, DESIGNED, MANUFACTURED AND
DISTRIBUTED IN THE U.S.A. and are easy-to-install devices for propellers
and
Rotax engines. These devices cut the vibration factor on ultralight
aircrafts by
as much as 50 percent when both balancers are installed.
Balance Masters are weighted with a high density liquid mass. The
physical
principles of centrifugal and gyroscopic forces explain the action of
the
Balance Masters. With the Balance Masters installed, the weighted liquid
mass
in the apparatus shifts during spinning, and adjusts to compensate for
imbalances due to such factors as changes in flying conditions or
warpage in
the propeller, from nicks and rocks during takeoffs and landings. The
Propeller Balance Masters mounts on the propeller shaft or gear box in
conjunction with the propeller. It is less than 7 inches in diameter.
The Engine Balance Master is made to fit most Rotax engines and bolts
under
the Starter Pulley on the Fly Wheel side of the engine. It is less than
5 inches in
diameter. Each device weighs about 4 oz. Installation will take about
25-30
minutes using ordinary hand tools for each device.
Balance Master is designed to fit most propeller bolt patterns and Rotax
engines from 277FA through 582. We will need to know the manufacturer of
your propeller and engine model to determine the right configuration.
Here is what Harry Whiting, Grand Champion Oshkosh 1991 of the
Lightplane
category has to say:
I installed your Balance Master to the propeller on the 1991 Oshkosh
Grand Champion Rans aircraft and could immediately feel a
smoother running engine and propeller. It is important to know that
this is our third Oshkosh Lindy trophy winning airplane and it is truly
state of the art.
Your Balance Master may just be one of the best values out there,
and as a Rans dealer I will certainly recommend its use.
Yours for safe flying.
Harry Whiting
P.S. Anyone is welcome to call me in the evenings. 501-825-6958.
Suntech Innovations, P.O. Box 9154, Canoga Park, CA 91309
(818) 882-8431 (800) 786-8324 Fax (818) 882-7859
Take a Look
http://www.balancemasters.com/ultraschem1.html
http://www.balancemasters.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
Jim , kolb(at)intrig.com,
tparadis(at)pop400.gsfc.nasa.gov, EZ1604(at)aol.com
| From: | olfloyd(at)para-cycle.com (Orville Lee Floyd III) (by way of The PROBE <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov>) |
| Subject: | Para-Cycle update 6/13/97 |
>>Hello friends,
>>
>>I am writing this note to share with all of the good folks who have been
enquireing about the Para-Cycle. Please bookmark and re-check our web page
for recent up-dates and information.
>>
>>We are nearing completion on the prototype Para-Cycle. Our initial goal
is a fairly common story by now. We are pushing to get it ready for
E.A.A.'s Oshkosh Wi. Fly-Inn. We have a forum scheduled in the forum tent
area @ 10:00 A.M. Wednesday July 30th. in tent#2 (tenativly). Check the
forum schedule for verification of location if you plan to attend. It will
be listed as; Para-Cycle "This Bicycle flies!"
>>
>>To our knowledge no one has ever created a practical flying bicycle. this
is the reason why we, and so many other folks seem to be excited about the
possibilities this invention represents.
>>
>>Essentially the Para-Cycle (TM) is a three wheeled low center of gravity
21 speed recumbent bicycle that also has an independent 40 H.P. 2SI 460F40
two cycle engine for it's power in the air. This power and Performance
Design (R) Parachute seperate from the bicycle with three A.N. bolts giving
you the option to ride it as a lighter weight bicycle, or to leave it on
when you are traveling over the road on a cross country trip.
>>
>>We will also be displaying the Para-Cycle in the Up-coming Interbike
convention at the Aneheim convention center in Aneheim Ca. September 3-7th.
This is the largest Bicycle industry trade show in the world. Between
Oshkosh and Interbike, we will hope to get some good ink for this new "Sport
Vehicle".
>>
>>We intend to put the Para-Cycle on the market right after Oshkosh. We
have not established a price yet as we are still gathering information on
the prototype. Suffice to say, we intend to be competativly priced, and
provide our customers a product that has never before been available on the
planet at any price.
>>
>>Thank you again for your interest,
>>
>>Orville "Lee" Floyd III
>>President
>>Para-Cycle Inc.
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William H Hatfield <hatfield(at)tsixroads.com> |
To all,
I am an old pilot but am new to ultralights and considering a Kolb Mk-
111 with a 618 liquid cooled engine. I would appreciate hearing from
any of you that can tell me anything, good or bad, about this engine on
an U/L. Any advice and experience will be welcomed. E-mail:
hatfield(at)tsixroads.com. Thank you, Bill Hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
Brian:;, hang-gliding(at)lists.utah.edu,
Jim , deandkl(at)sirius.com,
kolb(at)intrig.com, Laura Ziegler ,
jurenats(at)centum.utulsa.edu, tparadis(at)pop400.gsfc.nasa.gov,
EZ1604(at)aol.com
| From: | Phil Dietro <gotafly(at)ix.netcom.com> (by way of The PROBE <jjurena(at)pop500.gsfc.nasa.gov>) |
| Subject: | Landings site joke |
Good Luck Mr. Gorsky
When Apollo Mission Astronaut Neil Armstrong first walked on the
moon, he not only gave his famous "one small step for man, one giant
leap for mankind" statement but followed it by several remarks, usual
com traffic between him, the other astronauts and Mission Control.
Just before he re-entered the lander, however, he made the enigmatic
remark "Good luck Mr. Gorsky."
Many people at NASA thought it was a casual remark concerning some
rival Soviet Cosmonaut. However, upon checking, there was no Gorsky
in either the Russian or American space programs. Over the years many
people questioned Armstrong as to what the "Good luck Mr. Gorsky"
statement meant, but Armstrong always just smiled.
On July 5, 1995 (in Tampa Bay FL) while answering questions
following a speech, a reporter brought up the 26 year old
question to Armstrong. This time he finally responded.
Mr. Gorsky had finally died and so Neil Armstrong felt
he could answer the question.
When he was a kid, he was playing baseball with a friend in the
backyard. His friend hit a fly ball which landed in the front of
his neighbor's bedroom windows. His neighbors were Mr. & Mrs.
Gorsky. As he leaned down to pick up the ball, young Armstrong heard
Mrs. Gorsky shouting at Mr. Gorsky, "Oral sex! You want oral sex?!
You'll get oral sex when the kid next door walks on the moon!"
True story.
--Gary Hall
Heard a good one lately? There's always room for more ;-)
http://www.landings.com/_landings/pages/talk.html
--
Inland Paraflite, Inc. http://www.paraplane.com
USA Western Regional Dealer for Paraplane Powered Parachutes.
3 of the 4 top finishers at the 96 KIMO Nationals, including the
N.A.P.P.F. Champion flew Paraplane Powered Parachutes.
It's Time You Found Out Why!
Basic Flight Training through the Premier "Top Gun" Course.
mailto:gotafly(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Little <blittle(at)communique.net> |
| Subject: | How do I log back on to the net??? |
Guys I changed machines and lost the logon procedures for the Kolb builders net.
Please advise???
Thanks
Bill Little
N1618B
Kolb Mark III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tswartz(at)prolog.net (Terry Swartz) |
Just checking to see if this is still working. Have not had any messages
for a little.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PATRICK CHAGNON <patrick(at)ntic.qc.ca> |
Good evening Terry!
Yes every thing work well in your e-mail!
Patrick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Order Engine & Prop for FireFly |
My partner and I are going to be placing our order for the engine and
prop for the FireFly this week. Were have decided to stick with the
Rotax 447 since everything is set up for it and get it flying faster.
What were not sure about is the prop.
1. Should we go for:
a.) the 2-blade wood
b.) the 2-blade IVO (66")
c.) the 3-blade IVO (60")
2. We understand the two blade prop is more efficient that a 3 blade,
however it is also nosier. We understand the 3 blade IVO can be run
as a 2 blade configuration and pitch adjusted.
Question: Since the prop diameters are different, would the 60" prop
run in 2 blade configuration be less efficient that the 2 blade 66"
model.
3. Can a 2 blade prop be place in a horizontal position with the
wings folded.
4. Well my partner wants a parachute. (gulp, chew, shallow, good
humble pie, yum yum).
What type of model parachute are you FireFly owners using.
a.) Softpack
b.) Canister
c.) VLS
BRS informed me their no longer providing the softpack model for the
FireFly as it restricted the head room in the cockpit since it mounted
in between the wings. The FireFly having a smaller cage, it caused a
clearance problem for tall or pilots who chose to wear a helmet.
5. Does the factory have a parachute on their FireFly, I can't
recall.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Order Engine & Prop for FireFly |
> 2. We understand the two blade prop is more efficient that a 3
blade,
> however it is also nosier. We understand the 3 blade IVO can be run
> as a 2 blade configuration and pitch adjusted.
There are a couple of filler blocks that are used in the 2-blade config.
You might have to order these separately if you get the prop as a 3-blade
initially. Of course, you can also buy the prop as a 2-blade, then add a
3rd later. You're allowed to cut the blades off if necessary. If you get
an IVO, get the quick adjust hub. It looks real nice compared to the
cheaper shim adjust method.
> Question: Since the prop diameters are different, would the 60"
prop
> run in 2 blade configuration be less efficient that the 2 blade 66"
> model.
As I understand it (warning, I don't really understand it), a longer blade
with less pitch will generally give better climb, where a shorter blade
with more pitch will give better cruise speed. With an IVO, you can start
with the longest blade you're considering, then cut it off a bit if you
feel the need for speed.
Back to the garage,
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Parachute - VSL or Canister |
OK, I having to eat crow, yum, yum. Hope my partner see this.
He wants to put a chute on the FireFly. (Flies his N3-Pup without
one????) If we do, trying to figure out which would be better, the
canister or the VSL. The canister has a 6 year repack cycle, the VLS
only 4 plus cost $100 more and is heavier.
I am looking at drag then weight and then cost (initial & repack).
Anybody have any experience what performance penalty you pay for the
canister setting up in front of the engine compared to without one.
What effects do you see with a VSL compared to without one or between
canister and a VLS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | headsets, mic, PTT ? |
I'm expecting a Delcomm 960 radio at my door any day now.
However, I won't be able to use it in my plane until i get the
headset, mic, and PTT stuff. (I'll need to do the antenae too,
but already have a good recipe for that from a previous posting
--thanks Richard Pike!).
I don't want to choke up $400+ for the integrated helmet+above.
How have others of you handled this? (BTW, i'm not too proud
to hack away at my existing helmet to cluge a headset+mic to it.)
I'm also curious about noise protection. I wear ear plugs and
wonder whether you have to do without them once you move to a
headset.
TIA
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
Decided to change to a wooden prop and need the correct length and size.
Have a FSII with a 503 dual carb - what's everyone (or anyone) using?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Parachute - VSL or Canister |
On Wed, 25 Jun 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> I am looking at drag then weight and then cost (initial & repack).
> Anybody have any experience what performance penalty you pay for the
> canister setting up in front of the engine compared to without one.
> What effects do you see with a VSL compared to without one or between
> canister and a VLS.
I doubt you'd perceive any difference in drag/performance between the two
types. I say this cuz of moving up in tire size to BIG, and i can't really
say i see any difference. Of course, all the little pieces add up, so
I know and agree with your interest in minimizing drag. I put my cannister
BRS inside under the gas tank.
See http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/a1brsinst.html if interested.
I'd perhaps not do it this way over again. I think it also makes good
sense to mount it in front of the engine.
- much easier to remove for repack than my installation
- will probably clear the prop anyway
- will much more likely save your plane if used 10' off of a horrible
but necessary em. landing spot (e.g. rocks) ...this allows you to
fly the plane down to exactly where you want to "throw out the hook".
- Disadv: Easier to steal, and subject to rain
- Disadv (maybe): make sure it is still easy to add/remove the gap seal.
- You make the call: wing failure and folding up would be lousy. This is
why BRS doesn't like 'em up top. But if you do any aerobatics you
might be more likely to get wings folding down from an inadvertant
negative maneuver ...not that i'm suggesting anyone play such games.
my $.03
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adam Mills <millsag(at)mail.auburn.edu> |
Hello. My name is Bill Rayfield. I'm a student at Auburn University (War
Eagle!). My father and I are building an Ultrastar from a
factory-welded kit. Much of the kit has been completed by a former
dealer for Kolb but some items have managed to disappear over the course
of time. One such item is the hardware/parts lists. Does any Ultrastar
owners or enthusiasts have one? We would also like to contact any other
builders/owners in our area and would love to talk "airplane" anytime.
We are from Newnan, Ga., 38 Belleau Woods Dr., 30263,770-253-9660 or in
Auburn-202 Stonegate, Auburn,Al., 36832, 334-887-2943. Any help would be
greatly appreciated- Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: headsets, mic, PTT ? |
>I'm expecting a Delcomm 960 radio at my door any day now.
>However, I won't be able to use it in my plane until i get the
>headset, mic, and PTT stuff. (I'll need to do the antenae too,
>but already have a good recipe for that from a previous posting
>--thanks Richard Pike!).
>
>I don't want to choke up $400+ for the integrated helmet+above.
>
>How have others of you handled this? (BTW, i'm not too proud
>to hack away at my existing helmet to cluge a headset+mic to it.)
>I'm also curious about noise protection. I wear ear plugs and
>wonder whether you have to do without them once you move to a
>headset.
>
>TIA
> --------|--------
> Ben Ransom (*)
> Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
> http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
I almost hate to admit it, but I once built a helmet/headset/mike
for under $75. But since it worked good for over ten years, and since you
asked, here we go again...
I had a Terra TPX720 hand held, and it was designed for a carbon mike.
I don't know what a Delcom uses. Also the Terra uses a standard 1/4"
monaural jack for the speaker output, and a standard aircraft jack for the
mike/push-to-talk switch. You need to figure out how the mike is keyed up or
buy a premade push to talk switch/harness. On the Terra, the mike/ptt jack
had one common terminal, one for the mike input, and one for the keying. If
you just shorted the keying terminal to the common terminal, it would key
the mike. So you put a Radio Shack momentary pushbutton on the top of your
control stick (drill a hole in some thin sheet aluminum , locate the push
button in it, cut it the same od as your stick, and use black electric tape
to hold it in place.Slide the grip over the tape. Drill a hole in the top of
the stick, another in the bottom(in a non-structural place) and fish the
wire through). Maybe the Delcom works the same way? Don't fry anything
expensive experimenting...
Gunmuzzler sound suppressing headset, and put a little Radio Shack speaker
in each earpiece. Just drill a little hole in a corner of the plastic shell
and poke the wire through, pull the wire back so that the speaker is snug,
and epoxy the wire. Since the speaker is in the corner, it won't jiggle and
break the wire. But add a dab of rtv to be sure.
cigarette lighter map lights and screwed/bracketed it to the shell of one of
the headset sides. Make a bracket for the mike, fish the wires through the
conduit, and now comes the hard part, try and make all the wires look neat.
Also make sure that there is a stress wire (cable strain?) rigidly mounted
to the headset and woven into the wire loom to absorb pulls and jerks on the
electric wires, or they will break when the time comes that you drop the
helmet or get out with it still on and plugged in.
The whole rig went into an old motorcycle helmet. The Gunmuzzler (12
years ago model) had a plastic cushion that went across the top of the head,
wrapped around spring steel tension bands. Cut off the plastic, and the
steel is not very thick. Pop out the helmet liner styrofoam shell and
carefully carve out a groove across the top for the steel strap, and around
the earshells. Ease the fabric off around the earshell openings, and glue it
back on later with white glue. Cut a big opening in each side of the helmet
over your ears for the earpiece shells to poke through. This eliminates the
normal mounting points for the helmet straps, so you need to leave enough
structure of the helmet just below the earpieces to loop and rivit the
straps back.
I used this on my Hummer with a Rotax 277, but if you remember the
Hummer, the engine was about 3 feet farther back that on a Kolb, but it was
pleasantly quiet. It also looked very home made, but it worked ok.
One thing I forgot. Since the Terra radio had the plugs go into the
back, it was not convenient to put them in and out each time, so I used a
curly telephone wire from the radio plugs to a telephone cord male connector
to the base of the stick. The wires from my helmet were all telephone cord
curly wires to a little phone plug that I plugged into a double ended female
connector on the base of the stick where I hooked/ unhooked it. You wouldn't
really need to go to the base of the stick, the side of the Kolb cockpit
would be better(and you could use a wall mount socket), but the Hummer had
no sides to it's "cockpit".
Why telephone cords, connectors? Because they are gold plated and
never corrode or make poor contact(unlike the brass connectors that make up
the rest of the radio plugs/jacks) And the failure interval on those phone
wires was way ahead of any other kind of wire. They lasted 12 years/600
hours with no failures. Once again I got all that stuff at the 'Shack.
Good luck, and enjoy your $325 worth of labor.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
In this month's issue of ultralight flying magazine there's a picture
of a firestar that has, what looks like a BRS mounted under the plane.
Interesting to see how it would land if he ever used the chute.
Does anyone know if there is a cargo pod that would look like a bomb or a
extra fuel tank, like they use military planes, that would fit on a
firestar?
Cal,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Lloyd" <lloyd(at)vermontel.com> |
I anyone building a slingshot with more power than 65 hp? If so what
engine are you using or intending to use?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slingshot Power |
> I anyone building a slingshot with more power than 65 hp? If so what
> engine are you using or intending to use?
Tom,
Dennis is still trying to get their plane in the air with a 912 (80hp), and
they built a plane for engine development by a company that's putting 2-
40hp Cuyuna engines on it (combined into one engine package). To date,
neither has flown with full power. I'm already starting to regret getting
the 503 for mine, even though it hasn't flown yet. I think the killer
engine would be the 618. Almost as much power as a 912, without the
weight. I have an idea of building a Mazda Rotary engine for mine
eventually (this makes Dennis crazy ).
Not much help I know, but the SS is still pretty new. I hope to have mine
ready for flight by the end of August.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rgbsr <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
My Second Chanz chute is mounted under the aircraft. The cable is
tie-wrapped up the frame to a central point on top of the wing just
forward of the engine. If needed to be deployed, it fires out past
the prop and the opening of the chute pops all the tie-wraps off.
The airplane, and subsequent passenger/pilot, hangs supposedly nose
down to an uncontrolled landing.
My aircraft, er... vehicle, is not a Kolb but the theory should be the
same.
Best regards,
Ron B.
On Wed, 25 Jun 1997, Cal wrote:
> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 20:26:21 -0500
> From: Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net>
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: BRS
>
> In this month's issue of ultralight flying magazine there's a picture
> of a firestar that has, what looks like a BRS mounted under the plane.
> Interesting to see how it would land if he ever used the chute.
> Does anyone know if there is a cargo pod that would look like a bomb or a
> extra fuel tank, like they use military planes, that would fit on a
> firestar?
> Cal,
>
>
< rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in San Jose, California
< rblaylock(at)mail.arc.nasa.gov > Flying from Lodi, California
Trained by Ultralights of Sacramento, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS attach point |
On Wed, 25 Jun 1997, Cal wrote:
> In this month's issue of ultralight flying magazine there's a picture
> of a firestar that has, what looks like a BRS mounted under the plane.
> Interesting to see how it would land if he ever used the chute.
Mount location often invites this question. In all BRS applications it
is typical for the "best" parachute firing position -- and therefore rocket
mount location -- to be different from the top CG mount point for the
cable. Thus the long cable tie-wrapped around, over the carb, and to
the top CG point.
> Does anyone know if there is a cargo pod that would look like a bomb or a
> extra fuel tank, like they use military planes, that would fit on a
> firestar?
I know of a guy in Placerville,CA that built a fiberglass belly under the
cockpit to carry junque. ...sort of like the Beech(?) twin commuters with
the cargo belly mod.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
I received a 66" 3-bl PowerFin composite prop via UPS yesterday. It is for
use on the Mk iii with 582, "C" box, 2.62:1 ratio. Last night I quickly
assembled it and test-fit it to identify any possible problems. So far I
am very impressed. The finish is very nice, everything fits like a glove,
it is obviously very carefully crafted. On the root end of each blade
there are two numbers engraved which, I am guessing by info from Stuart
of PowerFin, are the weights as measured at the tip and the root of the
blade. And all six numbers are within 0.4 of each other (grams, I think?).
The mounting hardware (included) is 8.8 AN, although not drilled, and the
pitch setting tool is simple but looks workable. The aluminum is anodized,
and the blades are already covered with protective tape on leading edges.
I have checked the flexibility (by hand) and it seems a little
more flexible than a Warp prop, but not even close to a Ultra. I
have no feel for the Ivo, but I was told by Stuart that he has engineered
the stiffness to fall between Warp and Ivo.
Tommorrow I will be filling the cooling system, and engine startup and
break-in if I can get that far. It will be a few weeks before flight, and
I can give a performance report at that time.
Do most builders safety-wire the prop mounting bolts? I was thinking of
drilling the heads so I would have the option. What do the FAA guys like
to see?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Lloyd" <lloyd(at)vermontel.com> |
| Subject: | Qs on Slingshot. |
Actually, your thoughts are well received. I intend to make a decision at
Osh in a few weeks. I want something that will carry two in tandem, with
good speed and short field performance that also can be kept at home. I
like tube and fabric best because it is easier to repair. Although,
assembled in the right way, aluminum would be OK.
Russ, Thanks for your comments. They are well received.
I am working toward a decision on what a/c to start building this fall.
I'm going to Osh to spend several days contemplating. My needs are; two
place tandem, reasonably fast for light cross country, folding wing for
garage storage (or trailer),and
light aerobatics - loops and rolls. The Slingshot is intriguing.
However, let me ask you guys a few Qs about the Slingshot:
1. Is there ample room for the rear passenger to be reasonably comfortable?
2. Has anyone ever installed the engine inverted in a Kolb to get less
drag?
3. Has anyone ever capped the leading edge with aluminum sheet to smooth
the surface? It would appear to give benefit in both lift and drag.
4. The 618 does look to be the most interesting of the larger engines. Is
the airframe strong enough?
5. If the wing spar is the same diameter and wall thickness as the Mark
III, and Slingshot wing is eight feet shorter with a lighter airframe,
why is the ultimate load carrying capacity no better than +4/-2g?
would think that load factor would go up to about +7/-4g.
6. I live in Vermont: winters are cold her. What is the best way to heat a
S'shot?
Oh! know. Take it to Florida. Well,I don't like that solution. I
love skiing both in airplanes and down hills.
Tom Lloyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Anybody using Tiny-Tach |
Anyone using the digital LCD Tiny-Tach for their engine tach. I was
wondering if the inductance lead is long enough to reach from the dash
to the engine plug.
spark plug leads, what do you think it would do regarding radio
interference.
Jerry Bidle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Qs on Slingshot. |
> light aerobatics - loops and rolls. The Slingshot is intriguing.
That's funny, I don't recall seeing anything in the brochure about
aerobatics :-) However, I won't rule out the possibility of doing some
myself someday. I have to admit, that's one of the reasons I ended up
ordering the BRS.
> 1. Is there ample room for the rear passenger to be reasonably
comfortable?
This is a matter of size and opinion. If the passenger isn't too big, and
won't be flying too long, and you don't mind having their legs pressed
against your sides, you might find it acceptable. It was really intended
to be a jumpseat rather than a full time passenger carrier. You can try it
out at Osh for yourself. That would be the best way to find out for sure.
Personally, I wish there was more room. I bought a 13.5 gallon fuel tank
to fit where the back seat would be, but still haven't decided if I'll use
it. I hate to give up the seat, but no one I know would ever want to fly
in it more than once. Here's a picture of me and my wife sitting in the
cage:
http://www.pen.net/~rad/ss161.jpg
> 2. Has anyone ever installed the engine inverted in a Kolb to get less
> drag?
I don't see how inverted would be possible the way the mounts are built
into the cage.
> 4. The 618 does look to be the most interesting of the larger engines.
Is
> the airframe strong enough?
I believe so, but you need to ask Dennis for the official status on this.
There are some notes in the plans about extra tail cables and steel
elevator hinges for the 618 and 912.
> 5. If the wing spar is the same diameter and wall thickness as the Mark
> III, and Slingshot wing is eight feet shorter with a lighter
airframe,
> why is the ultimate load carrying capacity no better than +4/-2g?
> would think that load factor would go up to about +7/-4g.
I think they're primarily being conservative. The airframe is much
stronger than previous designs and some of them have been abused pretty
heavily. I don't need more than 4 g's, but it's comforting to see how
strong this thing really is.
> 6. I live in Vermont: winters are cold her. What is the best way to heat
a
> S'shot?
> Oh! know. Take it to Florida. Well,I don't like that solution. I
> love skiing both in airplanes and down hills.
Can't help you here, I live in Florida :-)
Tom, if you have any further question about the SlingShot that I can
answer, feel free to keep asking. There are tons of pictures on my web
page that show the construction. I may be the only SlingShot builder on
the mail list. Anybody else out there?
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Anybody using Tiny-Tach |
At 07:43 AM 6/27/97 cst, jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> Anyone using the digital LCD Tiny-Tach for their engine tach. I was
> wondering if the inductance lead is long enough to reach from the dash
> to the engine plug.
>
> spark plug leads, what do you think it would do regarding radio
> interference.
>
Yep, my FireFly uses a TinyTach. Seems to work fine. I haven't
gotten around to doing any radio stuff yet though, so I don't know
wether or not it generates any interference.
-Jon-
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PowerFin prop |
> I received a 66" 3-bl PowerFin composite prop via UPS yesterday. It is for
>use on the Mk iii with 582, "C" box, 2.62:1 ratio. Last night I quickly
>assembled it and test-fit it to identify any possible problems. So far I
>am very impressed. The finish is very nice, everything fits like a glove,
>it is obviously very carefully crafted. On the root end of each blade
>there are two numbers engraved which, I am guessing by info from Stuart
>of PowerFin, are the weights as measured at the tip and the root of the
>blade. And all six numbers are within 0.4 of each other (grams, I think?).
>The mounting hardware (included) is 8.8 AN, although not drilled, and the
>pitch setting tool is simple but looks workable. The aluminum is anodized,
>and the blades are already covered with protective tape on leading edges.
> I have checked the flexibility (by hand) and it seems a little
>more flexible than a Warp prop, but not even close to a Ultra. I
>have no feel for the Ivo, but I was told by Stuart that he has engineered
>the stiffness to fall between Warp and Ivo.
> Tommorrow I will be filling the cooling system, and engine startup and
>break-in if I can get that far. It will be a few weeks before flight, and
>I can give a performance report at that time.
> Do most builders safety-wire the prop mounting bolts? I was thinking of
>drilling the heads so I would have the option. What do the FAA guys like
>to see?
>
The bolts on my Ivo were long enough to go through the hub, and then
lock washers and nuts on the back side. DAR says that's ok. Otherwise, drill
the bolt heads and safety wire.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Qs on Slingshot: Inverted engine |
> 2. Has anyone ever installed the engine inverted in a Kolb to get less
> drag?
After reading stuff from Rotax service centers, I'd not want an inverted
engine on anything. Perhaps it is nice to have the capability, but the
service centers note that engine problems are ~twice as likely, and
engine life is generally shorter. (See CPS/Mike Stratman's Care and
Feeding series.)
Even if an inverted engine could be done (which would require extreme
modifications to a Kolb frame), to me, the possible drag reduction would
not be worth the cost in engine reliability and down time.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS attach point |
> >Ben Ransom wrote:
> > ... the top CG mount point for the cable. Thus the long cable
> > tie-wrapped around, over the carb, and to the top CG point.
> On Thu, 26 Jun 1997, Fred Steadman wrote:
> The question I have is, if the plane hangs from a "top CG mount point",
> which certainly seems like a good idea at first blush, what is the
> probability that the prop will cut the verticals? I've never heard
> anyone refer to it but it seems like keeping the chute and its' lines
> away from the prop might be kind of important.
yep, kind of :-). It is a widely held philosophy that pulling the chute
should be done only after shutting off the engine. If one were too
hasty, your chances would probably still be pretty good. The chute cable
will either wind up and stop (carbon) or cut off (wood) a turning prop
...probably. :-/ Has anybody recently asked BRS if they've tested this,
or is this my self-comforting imagination?
I think it is a good idea to rehearse chute pulls, and no, i do not mean
by actually doing them, but rather by simply swinging your hand by the
kill switch then to the rip chord. In an emergency it would be nice for
your hands to know how to do this with as little brain power as possible.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS attach point |
> ...probably. :-/ Has anybody recently asked BRS if they've tested this,
> or is this my self-comforting imagination?
> Ben Ransom
Not long ago during one of my many phone calls to BRS, I asked about the
prop vs. bridle conflict. I was told that "if the prop hits the bridle,
the prop will lose". He said that they've either seen the bridle instantly
break the prop, or wind around the shaft and become the new attach point
for the chute (in a Kolb as a matter of fact). Basically, they confirmed
what you said. Have they tested it themselves????? Perhaps they just let
others test it for them. For the record, they do want you to stop the
engine before deploying the chute if there's any way possible. I also
asked them about building a kill switch into their pull handle, and they
said it was a good idea, but they can't really build one that would work
for every type of engine out there so you're on your own.
Rusty (about to put the second coat of paint on the fuselage and tail)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | flying yesterday |
I went up yesterday afternoon. At the last minute I called a friend
who has a CGS Hawk (fully encl, single place, >400 lbs empty, 52HP, but
i easily climb and cruise faster). He's also a big time Ham operator.
He likes to fly relatively short distances and spend the whole time
talking w/ his ham buddies. Well, for me I was just glad to go w/
somebody somewhere so i was glad he was avail on the spur of the moment
...ah, retirement. :-)
We ran into some wild turbulence, among the most I've been in for
a long while. It wasn't the normal summer thermal bumps, but instead
some really wild long lasting ups, downs, and shears -- along with
the harder bumps too. :-/ Slowing down didn't even seem to help the
comfort level. This all started after passing a certain point heading
North, and we just happened to plan on turning around near there anyway.
Strange that the air was so smooth everywhere else. Upon getting back
I needed to just sit back and regain my stomach for a few minutes.
Got to try out my new GPS. :-) For awhile i left it off cuz i felt
i knew exactly where I was anyway, and couldn't see any point in it.
Even started to seriously wonder if I was just stuck on toy acquisition
syndrome, with another piece of cockpit clutter yet to arrive (the radio).
Ah well, it'll grow on me. I did turn it on on the way back home enf
to get an idea that yes, my IAS seems right on. (Didn't really do more
than a couple checks in opposite direction to verify the IAS against
GPS ground speed, but enf to know that it is very very close.) Then too
there is the nicety that today i can turn on the GPS and look at the track
picture of where i flew yesterday and relive it all that much better. :-)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: headsets, mic, PTT ? |
<< I wear ear plugs and wonder whether you have to do without them once you
move to a headset. >>
Hi Ben
What is the noise reduction rating (NRR) for your headset?
I dont know how much noise a Rotax puts out on a Kolb put when I get a
chance I'll measure it. A riding lawn mower may put out more then 90
decibels.
OSHA requirements for protection against the effects of noise exposure.
Permissible noise exposures sound level dB(A)
Duration per day, Hours Decibel
8hrs---------------------------------------------------------90dB
6hrs---------------------------------------------------------92dB
4hrs---------------------------------------------------------95dB
3hrs---------------------------------------------------------97dB
2hrs--------------------------------------------------------100dB
1.5 hrs----------------------------------------------------102dB
1hrs--------------------------------------------------------105dB
.5hrs-------------------------------------------------------110dB
.25hrs-----------------------------------------------------115dB
When your subjected to sound exceeding those listed above personal protective
equipment should be used (ear plugs or a good headset).
Type to you later
Will Uribe
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrio Taucer <adrio(at)capitalnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS attach point |
Ben Ransom wrote:
> I think it is a good idea to rehearse chute pulls, and no, i do not mean
> by actually doing them, but rather by simply swinging your hand by the
> kill switch then to the rip chord. In an emergency it would be nice for
> your hands to know how to do this with as little brain power as possible.
>
It seems to me that what would be nice in this case is to have a kill
switch built in to the rip chord mechanism. Do these engines stop
turning fast enough for that to be a viable option? This way when you
pull the chute, the engine is killed just before the chute goes out.
This seems too simple and I assume I am missing some thing fundamental,
so please fill me in.
Adiro
________________________________________________________________________________
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id ;
| From: | "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)bscn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS attach point |
----------
> From: Russell Duffy >
> Subject: Re: BRS attach point
> Not long ago during one of my many phone calls to BRS, I asked about the
> prop vs. bridle conflict. I was told that "if the prop hits the bridle,
> the prop will lose". He said that they've either seen the bridle
instantly
> break the prop, or wind around the shaft and become the new attach point
> for the chute (in a Kolb as a matter of fact). Basically, they confirmed
> what you said. Have they tested it themselves????? Perhaps they just
let
> others test it for them. For the record, they do want you to stop the
> engine before deploying the chute if there's any way possible. I also
> asked them about building a kill switch into their pull handle, and they
> said it was a good idea, but they can't really build one that would work
> for every type of engine out there so you're on your own.
Somewhere in my reading in the last few years I remember someone
recommending routing the bridle under the spark plug leads so that the
bridle would disconnect the plugs during deployment. Careful thought
would have to be given to routing to prevent the bridle from contacting the
prop on the way to the sparkplug leads. I wonder about the speed at which
the engine will coast down in this scenario tho.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS attach point |
> > kill switch then to the rip chord. In an emergency it would be nice for
> > your hands to know how to do this with as little brain power as possible.
> >
On Fri, 27 Jun 1997, Adrio Taucer wrote:
> It seems to me that what would be nice in this case is to have a kill
> switch built in to the rip chord mechanism. Do these engines stop
> turning fast enough for that to be a viable option? This way when you
> pull the chute, the engine is killed just before the chute goes out.
> This seems too simple and I assume I am missing some thing fundamental,
> so please fill me in.
> Adiro
no, it is pretty much simple, yet I haven't rigged this on mine. Two
minor issues to factor in:
1. a kill switch is really a closure in the ignition switch (grounding out
the mag), so you can't simply have the chute rip chord yank away
wires. I guess you'd just have it tied to a normally open switch
that is in parallel with the regular ignition switch (which for
engine off is a normally closed switch).
2. Obviously you'd want to protect the additional switch from getting
bumped inadverantly. This could make the switch installation slightly
above trivial, and that's my lame excuse for not doing it. :-/ Also,
is it reasonable to argue that the second switch is one more thing
that could go wrong either in a deployment or in normal flight?
Some people go a simple route, and run the BRS cable underneath the
spark plug leads. When the chute pulls tight it yanks out the plug
wires. This might not be quite as good tho', cuz the switch method
would give your engine 0.9 seconds to slow down while the chute deploys.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: BRS attach point |
I would think wiring a kill switch in with pull handle would be fairly
easy. It would be a normally open switch and closes upon activation
(when you pull the handle). It could parallel the ignition switch or
the terminals where the ignition switch connects.
In fact the same switch could be used as a kill switch Ski-Doo style
Some time back I recall a post of how long it takes a Rotax geared
engine to stop and it wasn't long if I recall right. Can any body
confirm this. I am a much happier camper when the engine continues to
run.
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: BRS attach point
Date: 6/27/97 12:54 PM
Ben Ransom wrote:
> I think it is a good idea to rehearse chute pulls, and no, i do not mean
> by actually doing them, but rather by simply swinging your hand by the
> kill switch then to the rip chord. In an emergency it would be nice for
> your hands to know how to do this with as little brain power as possible.
>
It seems to me that what would be nice in this case is to have a kill
switch built in to the rip chord mechanism. Do these engines stop
turning fast enough for that to be a viable option? This way when you
pull the chute, the engine is killed just before the chute goes out.
This seems too simple and I assume I am missing some thing fundamental,
so please fill me in.
Adiro
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William H Hatfield <hatfield(at)tsixroads.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS attach point |
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> > > kill switch then to the rip chord. In an emergency it would be nice for
> > > your hands to know how to do this with as little brain power as possible.
> > >
> On Fri, 27 Jun 1997, Adrio Taucer wrote:
> > It seems to me that what would be nice in this case is to have a kill
> > switch built in to the rip chord mechanism. Do these engines stop
> > turning fast enough for that to be a viable option? This way when you
> > pull the chute, the engine is killed just before the chute goes out.
> > This seems too simple and I assume I am missing some thing fundamental,
> > so please fill me in.
> > Adiro
>
> no, it is pretty much simple, yet I haven't rigged this on mine. Two
> minor issues to factor in:
> 1. a kill switch is really a closure in the ignition switch (grounding out
> the mag), so you can't simply have the chute rip chord yank away
> wires. I guess you'd just have it tied to a normally open switch
> that is in parallel with the regular ignition switch (which for
> engine off is a normally closed switch).
> 2. Obviously you'd want to protect the additional switch from getting
> bumped inadverantly. This could make the switch installation slightly
> above trivial, and that's my lame excuse for not doing it. :-/ Also,
> is it reasonable to argue that the second switch is one more thing
> that could go wrong either in a deployment or in normal flight?
>
> Some people go a simple route, and run the BRS cable underneath the
> spark plug leads. When the chute pulls tight it yanks out the plug
> wires. This might not be quite as good tho', cuz the switch method
> would give your engine 0.9 seconds to slow down while the chute deploys.
> -Ben Ransom
Hi Ben, I enjoy reading the Kolb net and the discussion of a safety
switch on the chute,etc. As an ex-Air Force safety officer I would like
to pass along a possible solution. The AF uses safety switches that has
a red guard over the Sw that keeps the Sw on until the red guard is pull
up that exposes the Sw and the Sw can then be turned off. When the guard
is down or in the normal position it automatically turn the sw to on.
The red guard is usually safety wired down with break away safety wire
that takes a few pounds of pull to break. This is about as fool proof as
it gets. In addition, it makes perflighting the Sw easy as you can see
the safety wire and if is is not broken and the guard is down, the sw is
in the on position. I'm sure these sws are avail and they are not very
heavy.
It seems to me that if you are able to pull the chute release you could
turn this safety sw off as it could be located near the chute release.
I would not want a kill sw that could easily be turned off!!!!!! Keep
the dialog coming our way. Bill Hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
| Subject: | Adjusting Control Cable Length? |
Is it possible to adjust the length of the control cable even more
radically than a few turns of the turnbuckle?
Specifically, I want to reposition
the yoke further towards me, and I am already showing one thread too many
on the lower turnbuckle.
Can anyone think of any kind of extending device
(tang?) that could go between the turnbuckle and the yoke (on the
fore side) , or the cable and the elevator horn (on the aft side) to give
me about an additional 1"in cable length?
Thanks in advance, Bruce Schimmel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Had something really strange happen this am when I went flying. I refilled
the oil injection tank, and had enough oil in the can to fill it to the top
so I dumped it in filling the tank completely. I started the engine, got
strapped in, radios on etc, started to taxi out to the runway, maybe 3-4
minutes of running time, and my EIS warning for CHT went crazy, jumped to 500
degrees. I shut it down right away and pushed it back to the hangar. I knew
no oil was getting to the system, and checked the lines and all looked fine.
Since I flew the evening before and all was great, I was puzzled because all
I changed was to add fuel and oil.
I found it to be that the oil tank was too full and did not allow the cap to
breath through the small air hole. I drained about a half inch out of the oil
tank, and started the engine and the temperatures were back to normal.
Kinda scary because if it had lasted another couple of minutes, I would have
been airborne. I love the EIS instruments, the red waring lite gets your
attention.
tim loehrke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | oil injection warning |
Had something really strange happen this am when I went flying. I refilled
the oil injection tank, and had enough oil in the can to fill it to the top
so I dumped it in filling the tank completely. I started the engine, got
strapped in, radios on etc, started to taxi out to the runway, maybe 3-4
minutes of running time, and my EIS warning for CHT went crazy, jumped to 500
degrees. I shut it down right away and pushed it back to the hangar. I knew
no oil was getting to the system, and checked the lines and all looked fine.
Since I flew the evening before and all was great, I was puzzled because all
I changed was to add fuel and oil.
I found it to be that the oil tank was too full and did not allow the cap to
breath through the small air hole. I drained about a half inch out of the oil
tank, and started the engine and the temperatures were back to normal.
Kinda scary because if it had lasted another couple of minutes, I would have
been airborne. I love the EIS instruments, the red waring lite gets your
attention.
tim loehrke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wally(at)foxfibre.com (wally hofmann) |
| Subject: | top false ribs on a fire fly |
Thought I was going to finish my first Fire Fly wing this weekend, but I'm
stumpped by the top false ribs.
I assumed they should follow the same profile as the full ribs all the way
to the main spar? But the way they are bent, there is no way that this can
happen. On the wing ribs page of the plans (pg13) it shows the rear of the
false ribs curving around the main spar and being riveted in two places.
Evidently only a portion of the leading edge of the top false ribs can match
the profile of the full ribs ???
Does anyone know how far back from the leading edge the false rib and full
rib profiles need to jive ??
Thanks for the help.
Wally Hofmann
wally(at)foxfibre.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Lloyd" <lloyd(at)vermontel.com> |
| Subject: | Capped Leading Edge |
Has anyone used aluminum sheet metal to skin the top forward quarter of
kolb wings. Similar to Cub or Champ wings. I know that it would remove
the classic kolb look. However, it willl probably give some improvement in
both climb and cruise performance.
What are your thoughts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Capped Leading Edge |
Several years ago I re-skinned my Mark III wings after installing an aluminum
leading edge on the top side. I read an article in the short lived Kolb
Newsletter that performance in climb & cruise would improve.
I saw no change in performance.
I wouldn't waste my money or time on it again.
Pete Krotje
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: top false ribs on a fire fly |
> I assumed they should follow the same profile as the full ribs all the way
> to the main spar? But the way they are bent, there is no way that this can
> happen. On the wing ribs page of the plans (pg13) it shows the rear of the
> false ribs curving around the main spar and being riveted in two places.
>
> Evidently only a portion of the leading edge of the top false ribs can match
> the profile of the full ribs ???
>
> Does anyone know how far back from the leading edge the false rib and full
> rib profiles need to jive ??
Can't give you an exact dimension here, and it is probably a little bit
variable among all kolbs. Just go for something that you can get consistent
on all the false ribs. Awhile back it seems most people were having to
nudge the shape of their false ribs to get them to be the same shape as
the main ribs -- i know i had to do quite a bit of this on my Firestar.
I drew the desired profile shape on my workbench and made all the false
ribs match that. I used a template made by cutting sort of a french
curve out of 1/2" plywood and bent the AL against this where-ever needed.
Another help was to tie-wrap a long piece of straight stock along the
wing on top of the main ribs at about the point you want the false ribs to
meet that profile. This provides an easy gauge to verify false rib height
while attaching them. (I ended up using 2 of these to easily check height
at 2 chord positions.) Hope this helps.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brandon "Herb" Kearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
I don't know if this is suggested in the kolb building manual or not,
but my father and I tied several strings length-wise across the wing.
We then bent the false ribs so that they would just touch the
strings and therefore it would have the same curve as the other ribs.
In order to make this work we first had to rivet the front end of the
false rib.
I hope this helps,
Brandon Kearbey
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey@ben.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| bcoe.butte.k12.
(_____________//----------------\^ ca.us
/ o
( )
Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Well got back from the local Fly-In/Camp Out. Had a great turn out
lot's of UL's, 45-50 plus. Better than Sun & Fun. They flew during
the Friday evening, all day Saturday except for the short period
interrupted by a Thunderstorm that rolled through. Sun came back out
in short time (Texas is great) flying resumed. Everybody was having a
good time. What a life...
Had to leave the fun and get back to work on rigging the Kolb FireFLy.
This is what I would call a pain. There's got to be a better way of
doing this. It takes Bill at the factory 4 plus hours to set up.
We spent from about 3 pm in after noon to about 8:30 pm that night.
Finally decided to stop since both of us were getting tried, had a
long day with the fly-in and all. Have the wings level for and aft,
and inboard to outboard. Will resume some evening this week.
One problem we had is with the rear hinge attach bracket and what
position they should be in. Doesn't seem to be defined but its
position dramatically affects the position of the wing.
1. Anybody have any suggestions we welcome them.
2. Did you use the top, or the bottom, of the wing for your reference
3. When setting the wing level fore-aft, is placing a level on the
horizontal cross member of wood H frame which supports the front and
rear tubes acceptable to base the wing level position or does it need
to be on the bottom of a rib.
4. FireFly builders, did the distance the tangs of the wing rib
weldments inserted into the two tangs of the fuselage cage come out
about equal distance on both sides.
5. Did the distance between the wings inboard steel rib weldments
come out about the same distance when measured near the front of the
wing versus the rear of the wing.
My partner was going to it and seemed to be chasing his tail. Move
one thing two other would change. Finally I suggested we clamp the
back wing fold bracket to the fuselage frame so it couldn't turn to
give one stable point. That seemed to help reduce the number of
points which would introduce changes. Then things started making
progress.
A few things I learned Sunday afternoon:
1. Don't do this when your tired or in an impatient state of mind.
2. Always zero out a digital level before using it.
3. Any point which moves or moved will change all the others.
4. Think about what you trying to accomplish before moving anything.
5. The 4-foot digital level worked fine except we found the weight of
it would impact the reading when sitting it on top of the wing, the
things are heavy.
6. Found using my light aluminum bubble level (4-ft) to be just as
accurate. (save your money - get a good 4-ft aluminum frame level)
7. Glued the stick used to support the plum line in place on top the
fuselage. As you adjust the tail up/down it may cause the string to
rub against the fuselage frame thus you may have to adjust it once.
8. Glued the frame of cage to the floor at the gear leg points to
keep it from moving using a electric glue gun.
9. Start watching the wing sweep from the beginning, it helps.
10. Found the slop in the rear wing fold brackets can be a nuisance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly Rigging |
> 2. Did you use the top, or the bottom, of the wing for your
reference
I used the bottom of the leading and trailing edge tubes. This was done
with a high quality bubble level. I put tape on the level and marked which
side I was using, and which end was left and right. Always keep it in the
same orientation.
> 3. When setting the wing level fore-aft, is placing a level on the
> horizontal cross member of wood H frame which supports the front and
> rear tubes acceptable to base the wing level position or does it
need
> to be on the bottom of a rib.
I measured several points along each wing but tried to avoid the very ends
of the leading and trailing edge tubes. I ty-wrapped my digital level to a
square aluminum tube that's about 6 ft long. Hold it up to the bottom of
the wing so that it touches only the leading and trailing edge tubes. Again
mark the orientation including where the square tube touches the leading
and trailing edge tubes. I wouldn't use the bottom of the ribs as a
reference.
> A few things I learned Sunday afternoon:
> 1. Don't do this when your tired or in an impatient state of mind.
1a. Plan to take more than one day. Get it looking right, then walk away
and come back for a fresh look the next day. Check it all again and if it
still looks good, drill it.
> 2. Always zero out a digital level before using it.
> 3. Any point which moves or moved will change all the others.
> 4. Think about what you trying to accomplish before moving
anything.
> 5. The 4-foot digital level worked fine except we found the weight
of
> it would impact the reading when sitting it on top of the wing, the
> things are heavy.
If you hold the level up to the bottom of the wing until it just touches,
you don't put any weight on the wing.
> 6. Found using my light aluminum bubble level (4-ft) to be just as
> accurate. (save your money - get a good 4-ft aluminum frame level)
Gotta disagree slightly here. While a high quality bubble level might be
just as accurate, you have to interpret the position of the bubble
yourself. If you're looking at a bit of an angle, you may not really be
centered. If a digital level says 0.1 degrees, it will say that no matter
what angle you look at it.
> 7. Glued the stick used to support the plum line in place on top
the
> fuselage. As you adjust the tail up/down it may cause the string to
> rub against the fuselage frame thus you may have to adjust it once.
> 8. Glued the frame of cage to the floor at the gear leg points to
> keep it from moving using a electric glue gun.
> 9. Start watching the wing sweep from the beginning, it helps.
> 10. Found the slop in the rear wing fold brackets can be a
nuisance.
I put a small weight on top of the wing where the drag strut fittings
connect. This made sure that the slop was taken out in that direction.
Also, I plan to keep the fittings in their exact same location for the life
of the plane.
Under the rigging section of pictures on my page, there are some photos of
how I did mine, and I know that Ben has some as well. At this point, Ben
knows his is correct since the plane flies well. Mine could just be an
accident waiting to happen (but I don't think so).
Good luck,
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly Rigging |
On Tue, 1 Jul 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> in short time (Texas is great) flying resumed. Everybody was having a
> good time. What a life...
I'm jealous! Sounds terrific.
> Had to leave the fun and get back to work on rigging the Kolb FireFLy.
> This is what I would call a pain. There's got to be a better way of
> doing this. It takes Bill at the factory 4 plus hours to set up.
I spent 10-12 hours worrying mine into the right place. Time well spent
and i don't think that is unusual. :-) Built straight, flies straight. :-)
The most useful aid for me was sketching the high/low spots repeatedly
as I shimmed the wings into position. The simple sketch, my brother
Mike's idea, is this: Mark the high or low parts with +, -, or ok as
you tweak and shim toward that perfect alignment.
In Planform, top view:
____________________ _____________________
( + - - | | + + ok ) ^
| | | | | front
| + - ok| | + ok - |
|____________________| |_____________________|
This sketch, coming from measurements with a bubble level, would indicate
that the port wing is too high on the outside and the starboard wing is
too high on the inside front. I must've made well over a dozen of these
pictures as i narrowed in on it.
> One problem we had is with the rear hinge attach bracket and what
> position they should be in. Doesn't seem to be defined but its
> position dramatically affects the position of the wing.
Referring to the U-joint? Mine may have been different being a Firestar,
but is it workable simply to find a hinge position that aligns good and
just mark the hinges (U-joints) so that you know this is where they belong?
>
> 2. Did you use the top, or the bottom, of the wing for your reference
bottom: it is flat anyway.
> 3. When setting the wing level fore-aft, is placing a level on the
> horizontal cross member of wood H frame which supports the front and
> rear tubes acceptable to base the wing level position or does it need
> to be on the bottom of a rib.
Depends on how straight the wood piece is. I'd recommend using something
like a piece of solid angle stock that you KNOW is straight, and goes the
full chord. Hold or tape the level to it. Don't forget to keep the
level oriented the same direction for all measurements. Also, as seen
in my sketch, check for high/low spots mid-span as well as the ends.
This gives you the opportunity to average in a slight dip or rise along
the leading or trailing edge. (I can't remember exactly but i think i
had approx 1/8" - 3/16" dips or rises that i averaged in.)
>
> A few things I learned Sunday afternoon:
> 1. Don't do this when your tired or in an impatient state of mind.
> 2. Always zero out a digital level before using it.
> 3. Any point which moves or moved will change all the others.
> 4. Think about what you trying to accomplish before moving anything.
this and #1 is why the sketches are so handy.
> 5. The 4-foot digital level worked fine except we found the weight of
> it would impact the reading when sitting it on top of the wing, the
> things are heavy.
> 6. Found using my light aluminum bubble level (4-ft) to be just as
> accurate. (save your money - get a good 4-ft aluminum frame level)
> 7. Glued the stick used to support the plum line in place on top the
> fuselage. As you adjust the tail up/down it may cause the string to
> rub against the fuselage frame thus you may have to adjust it once.
> 8. Glued the frame of cage to the floor at the gear leg points to
> keep it from moving using a electric glue gun.
> 9. Start watching the wing sweep from the beginning, it helps.
> 10. Found the slop in the rear wing fold brackets can be a nuisance.
>
I agree w/ all of the above except have no experience w/ digital levels.
As for slop in the rear wing fold brackets, I'm wondering about the cause
of this. A little slop now could wear into bigger slop after some hours
on the plane. I don't know if the FS and FF are the same design here so
can't comment specifically, but generally, I'd say you don't want to see
that rear attach point slop hardly at all (1/16" maybe?).
Good luck!!
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
If anybody is looking for an extra helmet I have a comtronics helmet (medium
white), radio shack CB and patch cord that I will sell. Decided to use a
headset in my Firestar 2 instead so I do not need it any longer.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Capped Leading Edge |
I started to cap my leading edge on my firester 2, there is a guy in florida
that has built more than 20 kolbs, he does all of his, Kolb can give you his
number, I talked to him and he is very helpful, but after talking to kolb
again I decide to not do it. He gets a better cruise, but also clips the wing
1 rib, so with the capped leading edge alone I am not sure how much you will
gain.
I figure I like the scallop between the ribs, and if you ever damage a
leading edge, its that much harder to repair with the cap. Kolb told me they
feel that the scallops made by the fabric work kind a like little vortex
generators and improve flight performance.
My 2 cents worth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <wood(at)mail.wincom.net> |
What was the email address for powerfin props.Their 800 number does not work
way up here in Canada.
Had trouble rigging a Mark3. the front holes on the wing bracket did not
seem to want to be far enough back from the edge for my liking.After a lot
of tweaking gave up and drilled both wing holes identical in the front
fitting according to the plan dimension and then drilled out the one rivit
holding on the rear mount. By moving this wing mount tube in and out and
twisting, the rigging went pretty quickly. Maybe we got lucky but it worked
great for us.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
TERRY
ALL IS WORKING HOW IS THE M III COMMING
RICK N106RL
writes:
>Just checking to see if this is still working. Have not had any
>messages
>for a little.
>
>Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | SlingShot update |
Greetings all,
The SS is coming along fairly well for a change. I took a week off and
managed to get the fuselage and tail painted. Violated just about every
painting rule, but it came out OK. The engine is installed and I'm
installing the fuel tanks now. I decided to use the stock tanks, and
install an electric sender in each. So far it looks like it's pretty
doable. When I installed the tank floor, I also added a bracket to it for
my ELT antenna. This actually worked out quite well. I plan to finish
setting up the fuselage by installing everything I can. Once I get as much
stuff out of the way as possible, I'll cover and paint the wings. Then
I'll get to enjoy the Lexan experience.
I hope to make it up to Kolb to get checked out with Dan sometime around
the first of August. Still a lot to do though....sigh.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
On Mon, 30 Jun 1997, wood wrote:
> What was the email address for powerfin props.Their 800 number does not work
> way up here in Canada.
They have a web page. Don't remember the URL, but you can use Webcrawler
to search for Powerfin.
***********************************************
* Bill Weber * Keep *
* MICOM Communications Corp. * the shiny *
* Simi Valley, CA * side up *
***********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Powerfin homepage |
Powerfin's homepage is www.supernal.net/~powerfin/
Happy surfing!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Powerfin phone and URL |
On Mon, 30 Jun 1997, wood wrote:
> What was the email address for powerfin props.Their 800 number does not work
> way up here in Canada.
1-800-581-8207
http://www.supernal.net/~powerfin/
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
| Subject: | Oil for 503dcdi/oil pump |
I have a Rotax 503 dcdi with the automatic oil pump. I've been
using Pennzoil for air-cooled engines, but can't find that at the moment.
Any suggestions as to type or kind of oil for this kind of rig (which
varies amount of oil to rpm). Low ash? Ash free.
Especially any kind of oil to avoid? I am using 93octane autogas.
Any good sources thru catalog sales/mail?
Thanks in advance, Bruce Schimmel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | oil, decisions, decisions... |
Your 503 is air cooled. Whatever oil you use, look for the words "for air
cooled engines" on it. I have spent some time looking into the oil question
and I will tell you briefly what I learned, but remember that I am running a
liquid cooled engine (582). I am only able to offer some info, and cannot
actually answer your question on which one to use. In the past I have
had good luck with Yamalube (Yamaha), and great luck with 100% synthetic
Belray although it is very costly, and very bad experience with Honda stock
2-stroke oil.
All the Rotaxes use a Dykes top ring. It is like a little "L" shaped ring
nearly at the top of the piston. It seals very well for greater power recovery
from the burning gasses because the pressure forces it to make a good seal to
the cylinder wall. This is true with all ring designs but especially with the
Dykes shape. The drawback to the use of this ring is that buildup of anything
(whatever you want to call it, carbon, varnish, ash, etc) may cause the ring
to stop floating in its groove and there will be blow-by with BAD results
real soon after this begins happening.
You want to choose an oil that will not contribute to any buildup. Rotax
has a great injection oil that is mineral-based. It says low-ash. I think
that since Rotax sells it for their sleds and watercraft, you could hardly
go wrong. It is also mentioned in the owners manual for my Rotax 582. I will
use it for break-in (about the first 10 hours, or 1 gallon of oil, if the 582
runs the same as the 583 in snowmobiles). After break-in I may be switching
to a synthetic to eliminate the build-up potential, and I will be carefull
about long-term storage because one of the rumored-weaknesses of sythetics
is their lack of corrosion protection. This is why a blend like AV-2 makes
a lot of sense. Sythetics are better lubricants, with more predictable
qualities because they don't depend on the variable-crude base. Also,
synthetics are better if there happens to be some water in the fuel. I
kind of forgot why this is supposed to be true. Can anyone say for sure?
Frankly I don't know why aircooled vs water cooled makes any difference,
except maybe the operating temperatures are different.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
A number of us in the area have used Phillips 66 INJEX 2-cycle
oil(TCW-3) for years with excellent results in 277, 337, 447, 503, and 532
engines. Minimal carbon, no seizures.
And it is usually about $1.50 a quart in case lots.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PowerFin prop |
writes:
<< The bolts on my Ivo were long enough to go through the hub, and then
lock washers and nuts on the back side. DAR says that's ok. Otherwise, drill
the bolt heads and safety wire.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>>
I have a 3 blade IVO that has no holes for safety wire, nor are the bolts
long enough to be washered and nutted. I've been flying it in my Firestar 447
for a year now and wonder if I'm going to die? I've always felt uncomfortable
about this but the fingernail polish seems to keep my prop on. I challenged
Ivan on it but he said nothing was necessary.. (in Russia?)
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly Rigging |
> From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
> To: Kolb
> > 10. Found the slop in the rear wing fold brackets can be a nuisance.
> >
> I agree w/ all of the above except have no experience w/ digital levels.
> As for slop in the rear wing fold brackets, I'm wondering about the cause
> of this. A little slop now could wear into bigger slop after some hours
> on the plane. I don't know if the FS and FF are the same design here so
> can't comment specifically, but generally, I'd say you don't want to see
> that rear attach point slop hardly at all (1/16" maybe?).
>
How about zero slop. The AN washer shims used in the joint to get the
castellated nut lined up correctly come in two thicknesses....and
even if it is only off by a 1/16" you can grind down the thickness
of a thin washer to get that nice tight connection.
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
Elmore City OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly Rigging |
On Tue, 1 Jul 1997, Jim Baker wrote:
> > on the plane. I don't know if the FS and FF are the same design here so
> > can't comment specifically, but generally, I'd say you don't want to see
> > that rear attach point slop hardly at all (1/16" maybe?).
> >
>
> How about zero slop. The AN washer shims used in the joint to get the
> castellated nut lined up correctly come in two thicknesses....and
> even if it is only off by a 1/16" you can grind down the thickness
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> of a thin washer to get that nice tight connection.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yes, i agree. That's what i did. I've noticed 1/16" slop after say
40 hrs use since last making a new washer. Seems hard to figure
what is wearing down here. Maybe it is not quite a 1/16" but i
noticed a tiny bit of slop on one side on my last pre-flight.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Tue, 1 Jul 1997 GeoR38(at)aol.com wrote:
> writes:
>
> << The bolts on my Ivo were long enough to go through the hub, and then
> lock washers and nuts on the back side. DAR says that's ok. Otherwise, drill
> the bolt heads and safety wire.
> Richard Pike
> Technical Counselor EAA 442
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>
> >>
> I have a 3 blade IVO that has no holes for safety wire, nor are the bolts
> long enough to be washered and nutted. I've been flying it in my Firestar 447
> for a year now and wonder if I'm going to die? I've always felt uncomfortable
> about this but the fingernail polish seems to keep my prop on. I challenged
> Ivan on it but he said nothing was necessary.. (in Russia?)
> GeoR38
Bold MO IMHO. I'd think it would be a good idea (and easy!) to order some
longer bolts. I use nylocks on the opposite side of the PTO flange,
and this after torqing the prop bolts into the flange. Even w/ this I
have infrequently found some prop bolts not at the required torque after
several hours use. (warp drive AL hub here.)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: oil, decisions, decisions... |
[...]
> Frankly I don't know why aircooled vs water cooled makes any difference,
>except maybe the operating temperatures are different.
>
I don't claim to be an oil expert (hardly anything of the sort!), but
I've gone through this whole debate with myself, and I'm using AV-2. I guess
its more expensive than the "normal" stuff, but so is my Rotax. ;-)
I haven't been using it anywhere near long enough to tell what the
long term effects are going to be, so I'm not much help there, but I
thought I'd let everyone know about an article on my web site that
deals with oil, the differences between water/air formulations, etc. It
is originally from an article in EAA Experimenter (reprinted with permission).
In the article, the author recommends Pennzoil, and it starts to sound like
an ad near the end, but there is a lot of great info in there.
The URL is:
http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/WWW/ULTRA/OIL/oil.html
I hope this helps!
-Jon-
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <wood(at)mail.wincom.net> |
The powerfin homepage still dosnt give me a direct line to someone to ask
certain questions. The email addresss was posted here last month.Can anyone
help me out
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | IVO clearance and engine angle |
Hi yall,
I held up one of my prop blades today and noticed that I only have about
3.4 inches of clearance between the blade and the fairing on the back of
the cage even with the 2.5 inch spacer. I know that IVO specs a minimum of
5 inches, but I wonder what others are using. If you have an IVO, what it
your minimum clearance?
The problem only seem to be at the bottom of the fairing and I think I
could pitch the engine forward by a few washers to get close to 5 inches.
It seems odd to me that the engine is pitched up (front higher than back)
about 5 degrees more than the wing. Does this sound right?
BTW, I finally installed the fuel tanks today. I put a generic float type
fuel sender in each and it seem to be ok. I've gotta admit, the stock
tanks seem fine now that they're installed.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Information on Powerfin in Canada |
Call Powerfin's Canada distributor for information:
Six-Shooter Co., Ed Meyers, Medicine Hat Alberta, 403-528-3812
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Morschtupn(at)aol.com |
I am new to expiremental Aircraft but I am looking into a KOLB as my first
project. I need some advice/input?
I was wondering if anybody has any info on possibly using a converted VW
engine to power a KOLB instead of the traditional Rotax. I haven't actually
chosen he design of aircraft I wanna build yet and cost is a major factor. I
have the a running VW engine so it makes sense for me to consider it, as I am
not sure my budget would allow the purchase of a Rotax. So with those
factors the added weight of the VW power plant would be a trade off I would
have to make.
Anyway I was wondering if anybody has done or knows anybody that has used the
a modified VW to power their KOLB?
Would the KOLB design accomodate this engine with a minimum of modifications?
Does the factory support it's use?
I really like the looks of the Slingshot and the Firestar; any thoughts?
Thanks in advance
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IVO clearance and engine angle |
>Hi yall,
>
>
>The problem only seem to be at the bottom of the fairing and I think I
>could pitch the engine forward by a few washers to get close to 5 inches.
>It seems odd to me that the engine is pitched up (front higher than back)
>about 5 degrees more than the wing. Does this sound right?
>
I don't know what's right, but I experimented with my MKIII and
found that if you raised the front of the engine, you gained a bit on
airspeed and lost a noticable rate of climb, especially two up. Likewise,
drooping the flaps/ailerons or reflexing them made quite a difference.
Experiment out of bigger airstrips with easy obstacle clearances or you will
make yourself old and gray before your time(like me).
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Gas tank connections |
I thought that I would share something that happened to me in the
hopes that if someone else is doing the same a little forewarning might
prevent trouble.
I got my firestar already built and set up. I was and to a large
degree still am a novice about flying and airplanes. I am very happy with
the plane and fly it every chance that I get, but unfortunately most of the
things that we learn we have to learn the hard way. The gas tank is a
standard one from Kolb, however the connection is a quick connect from a
boat gas tank. It audibly clicks into position. It has served me well for 27
hours, but last sat I flew into the local controlled airport for a fly in
breakfast put on by the local EAA chapter. The flight in took approx 15 min.
and when I left I made a bit larger circle before landing at the home strip.
As I was taking the plane apart for storage I heard a click and saw the gas
connect fall off the tank. Needless to say there was a momentary sag to my
knees as the realization of what could have been sank in. A lot of the area
where I fly does not support a emergency landing that you could fly out of
after a forced landing.
Before I did my preflight I fueled the plane, so all the connections
and caps were off. When I put them back I always grasp the connection and
wiggle it to make sure that it is in place. I walked around the plane three
times checking over and over because I knew that I was nervous, but I did
still forget one of the counter balances there where I put the plane
together. (I have to take them out when I trailer the plane) I also made
another mistake at the airport when I left, I didn't make another inspection
before I left. I had talked to the tower because the radio that I had
borrowed, had weak batteries, and I was in a hurry to taxi out before a
bunch more traffic showed up. I sat on the taxi way for at least 15 min
idling before we were cleared for takeoff. I then flew for 30 min. more, so
the connection couldn't have been loosened by some kid or it would have
fallen off before the landing.
It is not often that one gets a second chance like that. I'm not
sure why, but I do know that I will take full advantage of it. I'm using two
tanks with one gas cap- pickup tube combined, Following FAA regulations of
having only 5 gal. available for use. The idea is to land and change tanks
when needed. I will soon have both tanks connected with a feeder tube that
doesn't have to be removed.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
(/\##/\ Smail3.1.30.16 #30.181) with smtp for
| From: | jbidle(at)airmail.net (Jerry Bidle) |
| Subject: | FireFly Kit - Verify Contents |
Heads up to those building FireFlys.
1. The material they shipped (early kit) was short on the amount of .875 x
.058 tubing required for the lift struts. They shipped (1) 12-ft. & (1)
6-ft. long pieces (as per the inventory list) to make four pieces of
approximately 54" long. If you work it out, you can't get 4 54" long pieces
out of a 12 foot long piece and only 1 from the 6 foot. The should send (2)
9 ft pieces. Note, also received one 12-ft. piece of .875x.049 tubing which
is not required.
2. Drag Strut - The instruction manual July-96 admedum mentions about
drilling the drag strut for a AN-4 bolt but skips the step identifying when
or how it is to be done. Do you do it after you level the wings, before
drilling the front spar tangs, or after drilling the spar tang.
3. Also verify you have received the clevis pins for the wing spar attach
points. We didn't get ours.
4. Also missing is some .375 x .028 alumimum tubing to be used for shims on
the top of the lift struts.
Jerry Bidle
________________________________________________________________________________
(/\##/\ Smail3.1.30.16 #30.181) with smtp for
| From: | jbidle(at)airmail.net (Jerry Bidle) |
| Subject: | Rigging FireFly Progess |
Well, we spent about 5-1/2 hours one night and another 6.5 rigging the wings
on the FireFly to point of drilling the holes in the spar tangs. This
operation was a pain but yet rewarding.
One issue t\we ran into was a problem of the builder manuals shipping the
step of when the wings drag struts are to be drills for a AN-4 bolt. Since
we did drill them unitl after the front attach point, it may have caused us
a little more difficulty.
We rechecked the wing tonight and drilled the drag struts. Next came the
struts.
Tip on drilling the the holes for the top lift strut tangs - Measure you
first hole, drill it carefully through both sides of the tube. Enlarge the
hole to the 1/4" size drilling from each side. Bolt two tangs together
using a piece of tubing of the same diameter. Using the tangs, mount it on
the tubing using the hole just drilled. Use the remaining hole in the tang
as a drill guide to drill the last hole through the tubing.
To set the dieheral we used a saw horse in similar fashion as the H-frame
for leveling the wing. We took another saw horse position at the tip end of
the wing. Then we mounted to it 2 boards in a vertical position using dry
wall screws. Position each board at least a couple of inches above the
height of the wing tip in the level position. Each board was positioned
about 9 inches fron the front and trailing edge of the wing. Using a small
square we marked on each board the initial height of the tip of the wing
when in the level position. Then we marked the boards at 1 inch above it.
We them shimmed the wing still resting on the H-frame to the point of
raising the tip to the 1 inch elevated position. Then we measured the
required lenght of each of the two struts. Repeat the process for the other
wing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas tank connections |
Like you, I am a newbie ultralight-flyer, and have a FSII. And like you, I
don't like the quick connects. I am using them only when the fitting
underneath is already double notched (like under the fuel filter, and then
the fuel filter is immobilized by being tied to the frame), and in other
instances, am using nylon wire-ties.
Two things about your post attracted my attention, in addition:
1. As a GA pilot, I'm addicted to checklists. I'm working up a
preflight checklist based on a walkaround. I find it comforting, taking my
mind off of gruesome possibilities, and which ultimately translates into
my being a better pilot. Fly the plane, first.
2. I take seriously the warning that the engine could seize
anytime, so I will not fly anywhere that doesn't offer an emergency field.
After hammering down power-on landings, I'm now working on power-off
landings. I come in high on final, with about 4200 on the tach, slip down
to about 300' above the field and cut back to idle (clearing as I go in).
There is a trade-off. Having to start a flare earlier and higher, I do
invite a stall above the field, but I've been practicing at higher
altitudes to get the right attitude to simulate what is essentially a best
glide (60mph) that I would use anyway, if I had a dead stick. When I'm
just
above the field and level at about 50mph, holding a foot or so until I've
got 45-40. Then I execute a wheel-landing.
I will occasionally goose the throttle just above the field, if I
don't like the stability or directional control, ready to go around. That
might extend my total landing field usage to as much as 600'. But it does
give me the confidence that I could do a deadstick, for I assume that
someday I will indeed have to.
I'm interested in others' comments on my technique and thinking,
so I'm sharing this with you only as something which seems good for me,
not a declaration of what's gospel or right.
Bruce Schimmel
On Wed, 2 Jul 1997, Larry Cottrell wrote:
> I thought that I would share something that happened to me in the
> hopes that if someone else is doing the same a little forewarning might
> prevent trouble.
> I got my firestar already built and set up. I was and to a large
> degree still am a novice about flying and airplanes. I am very happy with
> the plane and fly it every chance that I get, but unfortunately most of the
> things that we learn we have to learn the hard way. The gas tank is a
> standard one from Kolb, however the connection is a quick connect from a
> boat gas tank. It audibly clicks into position. It has served me well for 27
> hours, but last sat I flew into the local controlled airport for a fly in
> breakfast put on by the local EAA chapter. The flight in took approx 15 min.
> and when I left I made a bit larger circle before landing at the home strip.
> As I was taking the plane apart for storage I heard a click and saw the gas
> connect fall off the tank. Needless to say there was a momentary sag to my
> knees as the realization of what could have been sank in. A lot of the area
> where I fly does not support a emergency landing that you could fly out of
> after a forced landing.
> Before I did my preflight I fueled the plane, so all the connections
> and caps were off. When I put them back I always grasp the connection and
> wiggle it to make sure that it is in place. I walked around the plane three
> times checking over and over because I knew that I was nervous, but I did
> still forget one of the counter balances there where I put the plane
> together. (I have to take them out when I trailer the plane) I also made
> another mistake at the airport when I left, I didn't make another inspection
> before I left. I had talked to the tower because the radio that I had
> borrowed, had weak batteries, and I was in a hurry to taxi out before a
> bunch more traffic showed up. I sat on the taxi way for at least 15 min
> idling before we were cleared for takeoff. I then flew for 30 min. more, so
> the connection couldn't have been loosened by some kid or it would have
> fallen off before the landing.
> It is not often that one gets a second chance like that. I'm not
> sure why, but I do know that I will take full advantage of it. I'm using two
> tanks with one gas cap- pickup tube combined, Following FAA regulations of
> having only 5 gal. available for use. The idea is to land and change tanks
> when needed. I will soon have both tanks connected with a feeder tube that
> doesn't have to be removed.
>
> Larry
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil, decisions, decisions... |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
JON
I am with you I talked to penzoil in HOUSTON they sent me info. on their
oil . and I called Ernie Lepp up in canada Ernie is the " MR. ROTAX "
he recommends only 3 oils PEN. , AV2 , an BLIZZARD I use AV2
and I an sold on it . I have had no problems . with it
Rick Libersat
writes:
>[...]
>> Frankly I don't know why aircooled vs water cooled makes any
>difference,
>>except maybe the operating temperatures are different.
>>
>
>
> I don't claim to be an oil expert (hardly anything of the sort!),
>but
>I've gone through this whole debate with myself, and I'm using AV-2.
>I guess
>its more expensive than the "normal" stuff, but so is my Rotax. ;-)
>
> I haven't been using it anywhere near long enough to tell what the
>long term effects are going to be, so I'm not much help there, but I
>thought I'd let everyone know about an article on my web site that
>deals with oil, the differences between water/air formulations, etc.
>It
>is originally from an article in EAA Experimenter (reprinted with
>permission).
>In the article, the author recommends Pennzoil, and it starts to sound
>like
>an ad near the end, but there is a lot of great info in there.
>
> The URL is:
>
> http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/WWW/ULTRA/OIL/oil.html
>
> I hope this helps!
>
> -Jon-
>
> .- steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu --
>http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
> | DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209,
>KotWitDoDFAQ |
> | '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha
>FZR600R |
>
>`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
> I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my
>own.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Neilsen <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Aileron/Flap Gap Seal |
I think I have come up with a better seal for my
aileron/flap gap on my MKIII. I didn't install the fabric
seal on recommendation of Dennis Souder at Oskosh
last year because they were using book binding tape
on the factory planes. Some of you were concerned
about the creeping of the tape and the problems
associated.
I have located a roll of .003 mylar that I plan to use for
the gap seal. I will use two sided tape and pop rivets
every 5 inches to keep it in place. Also the seal
between the wing and the flap appears not to need
much slack (assuming I don't anchor the seal to the
aileron torque tube) which will smooth the air flow in
this area.
Any thoughts on the idea?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IVO clearance and engine angle |
I talked to Dennis and he said they had to build a spacer to raise the back
of their engine as well. He's sending one to fix me up. The spacer is 3/4
inch thick and should make my prop clearance about 5 inches. This is
obviously a difference between the SS and other models.
Thanks,
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <wood(at)mail.wincom.net> |
A few years ago a read about the 2 different types of engines. Air cooled
and water cooled. Use snowmobile oil in air cooled engines and outboard oil
in liquid cooled engines. The reason is that a watercooled engine runs in
the 200* range and an aircooled in the 400* range.This means that the oils
work their best in the operating temp they were designed for.I know one guy
who always ran outboard oil in his 503 thinking it was better because it
cost him more.He didnt seem to have any trouble but I prefer to use the oil
for my usual opperating temp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: rec.aviation.ultrlight |
Subject: Kolb-List: Paul Harvey's Report on UL's
From: mike mcswain <mickeymc(at)shelby.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 1997 10:44:02 -0400
Anyone listen to Paul Harvey on July 1, 1997? His comments on
ultralights began like this:
"An older gentleman, wanting to prove his manhood, decided to do so by
flying an ultralight, you know, those flimsy airplanes with lawnmower
engines, etc...."
Needless to say nothing good was said about ultralights and the man
crashed in the top of a tree. Nothing was mentioned about training,
health, actual age or anymore details.
I would like to encourage everyone to write Paul Harvey and ask him
please not to report on anything he obiviously know nothing about,
especially ultralights.
Write to:
Paul Harvey News
333 N. Michigan Ave
Suite 1600
Chicago, Il 60601
One thing that I would like to know is what kind of lawnmower has an
engine that will power my Drifter, I could probably buy the whole
lawnmower cheaper than a Rotax engine!!!!
Thanks Mike M
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cal <calvin(at)peoples.net> |
If anyone is interested, I found an ad in the classified section of the
local newspaper up here in wisconsin. "ULTRALIGHT parting out, 90 firestar,
447 $2500 414-552-8737"
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
<< If anyone is interested, I found an ad in the classified section of the
local newspaper up here in wisconsin. "ULTRALIGHT parting out, 90 firestar,
447 $2500 414-552-8737"
Cal >>
Sounds like "Gold in them thar hills" GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Lloyd" <lloyd(at)vermontel.com> |
| Subject: | builders get together |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | 4th of July weekend flying |
Hope everyone had a great and safe weekend flying ! Question? This has
been gone over before but mislaid (or forgot) what the recommendation is
for electric fuel pump.
Currently have the pump "in line" (series) with the vacuum pump, also have
"one way" valve. Do not have a pressure regulator which I will install -
the pump when on and not at full throttle overcomes the floats and starts
to bog down the engine. Now - what's the preferred way, in line or in
series? If in series, what type or make of pressure regulator is being
used?
Lastly, if any problems with the flights over the weekend, would be
interested in hearing what the problems were, particularily with FSII.
thanks. Dan B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: rec.aviation.ultrlight |
[...]
>One thing that I would like to know is what kind of lawnmower has an
>engine that will power my Drifter, I could probably buy the whole
>lawnmower cheaper than a Rotax engine!!!!
Definitely.
Is this the same Paul Harvey as in "The EAA Paul Harvey AudioVisual Center"?
(Which does EAA's videos, including the ultralight ones.) If so, this is
an interesting double standard. :(
-Jon-
.- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ -.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ |
| '96 Dodge Dakota SLT V8, '96 Kolb FireFly 447, '91 Yamaha FZR600R |
`---------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | quality-care-88(at)juno.com |
if you have any pictures of your kolb or other aircraft send them to
rickn106(at)al.com
AARON LIBERSAT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4th of July weekend flying |
>Hope everyone had a great and safe weekend flying ! Question? This has
>been gone over before but mislaid (or forgot) what the recommendation is
>for electric fuel pump.
>Currently have the pump "in line" (series) with the vacuum pump, also have
>"one way" valve. Do not have a pressure regulator which I will install -
>the pump when on and not at full throttle overcomes the floats and starts
>to bog down the engine. Now - what's the preferred way, in line or in
>series? If in series, what type or make of pressure regulator is being
>used?
>Lastly, if any problems with the flights over the weekend, would be
>interested in hearing what the problems were, particularily with FSII.
>thanks. Dan B.
>
The preferred way(according to the CPS tech sheets) is to T off the
fuel line into two lines, and have one line for the electric pump, and one
line for the vacuum pump, and then T the lines back together again, then to
a pressure regulator, and then to the the carb(s). I am using a Purolator
regulator and it works fine. If you put in a fuel pressure gauge between the
pressure regulator and the carb(s), you can switch the electric pump off and
on after your startup and see if both pumps are actually working. It is a
lot of plumbing, T fittings and connections, but now that I've done it this
way, I would never go back to one pump.
Also during preflight, flip the electric pump on and go back and
inspect your plumbing. The pump pressure will load the system just enough
that if you are starting to get a small leak, it will show up.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skeeve(at)henge.com (dave) |
| Subject: | New electric fuel pump |
Hi all!
Don't know if anyone might be interested, but I wanted to mention a new
style of electric fuel pump that I found. I bought the one that I have at
Checkers Auto Parts.
This fuel pump is made by Purolator, and is very simple in design and small
in size. I have not dissected one yet, but the info on the outside of the
package says that there are only 2 moving parts. I suspect that the
operating mechanism uses a small, solid state electronic switching circuit
to alternately reverse the magnetic field in a coil and cause a piston to
oscillate back and forth.
This pump can be purchased in either a high or low output pressure and is
very inexpensive. Cheap as it is, it appears to be very well made, and
inspires confidence, which is not a bad thing in an airplane fuel pump! :-)
One other thing is that it carries the Purolator name, which indicates that
it is not a fly by night operation. The pump package states that it is "made
in the USA".
If anyone wants further info, just let me know and I will post it. Just
thought that it might be usefull info.
Best wishes all!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: rec.aviation.ultrlight |
> Anyone listen to Paul Harvey on July 1, 1997? His comments on
> ultralights began like this:
> "An older gentleman, wanting to prove his manhood, decided to do so by
> flying an ultralight, you know, those flimsy airplanes with lawnmower
> engines, etc...."
Problem is, Harvey is (was?) a pilot and has been for many years. I
guess old age has set in and he has acquired the GA
disease...intolerance.
I heard the broadcast, too. Promptly slashed my air bed and the Bose
wave radio now sits at the bottom of the pond. ; )
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
Elmore City OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Weight/balance, V speeds |
I did the weight & balance this weekend and I have a question: The text
in the kolb Mkiii manual (page 64, Nov 1995) says to keep the CG between
20 and 35% of the wing cord. The plans book page 43 allows this range to
be from 20% to 37%. I am asking for clarification because I fall at 36.8%
when flying solo and full of fuel. BTW, the full-oil and empty fuel weight
of our Mkiii came in at 467lbs.
V speeds: What are builders using for the V speeds that need to be marked
on the airspeed indicator for Experimental Registration? Specifically, I
need the Vfe (max velocity flaps can be extended), the Caution Range (usually
marked in yellow, it is the upper range just below Never-Exceed, to be operated
in the yellow only in smooth air), and I am looking for Maneuvering Speed
which is the maximum speed at which full and abrupt control input can be made
without damage to the aircraft.
I will also send this note directly to Dennis. Thanks again guys!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jhann Gestur Jhannsson <johanng(at)ok.is> |
| Subject: | EGT probe on 532 |
Hi Kolb flyers,
My FSII is almost ready to fly, but need some help on drilling the hole in
the correct place in the exhaust manifold for the EGT probes.
My engine is a Rotax 532.
If I use the Primer Kit in the fuel system, will I need the Primer Bulb?
Best regards from Iceland,
Jhann G. Jhannsson
johanng(at)ok.is
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Paul Harvey July 1, 1997 |
Forwarded message:
From: dknapinski(at)eaa.org (Dick Knapinski)
To: WillU(at)aol.com ('WillU(at)aol.com')
Date: 97-07-07 21:33:08 EDT
Mike:
Thanks for your e-mail. I didn't hear the broadcast you referred to and
I haven't received any other mail mentioning it. We communicate with
Paul Harvey on a fairly regular basis so we'll be sure to mention it.
Other than perhaps not having a full knowledge of ultralight procedures,
Paul Harvey has been a huge supporter of sport aviation and EAA for many
years. Given his past support, my first impression believes that it may
have been a sin of omission rather than animosity on his part. As
newspeople go, he's probably one of the stauncher defenders of personal
flying. We've all had experience with those who aren't.
Thanks for letting us know about this.
Best,
Dick Knapinski
EAA OSH
>----------
>From: WillU(at)aol.com[SMTP:WillU(at)aol.com]
>Sent: Friday, July 04, 1997 8:27 AM
>To: Communications
>Subject: Paul Harvey July 1, 1997
>
>Subject: Paul Harvey's Report on UL's
>From: mike mcswain <mickeymc(at)shelby.net>
>Date: Thu, 03 Jul 1997 10:44:02 -0400
>Message-ID: <33BBBAB2.60A7(at)shelby.net>
>
>Anyone listen to Paul Harvey on July 1, 1997? His comments on
>ultralights began like this:
>"An older gentleman, wanting to prove his manhood, decided to do so by
>flying an ultralight, you know, those flimsy airplanes with lawnmower
>engines, etc...."
>Needless to say nothing good was said about ultralights and the man
>crashed in the top of a tree. Nothing was mentioned about training,
>health, actual age or anymore details.
>I would like to encourage everyone to write Paul Harvey and ask him
>please not to report on anything he obiviously know nothing about,
>especially ultralights.
>Write to:
>Paul Harvey News
>333 N. Michigan Ave
>Suite 1600
>Chicago, Il 60601
>
>One thing that I would like to know is what kind of lawnmower has an
>engine that will power my Drifter, I could probably buy the whole
>lawnmower cheaper than a Rotax engine!!!!
>Thanks Mike M
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Hoyt <r.r.hoyt(at)cdev.com> |
I just attached the ailerons to the wings on my Mark III. The manual says
they should fold back (up) to 6 inches from the wing. In my case they only
come back to 7.5 inches. The aileron ribs hit the hinge on the wing
trailing edge. I could compress the point of contact, but I'm wondering
how critical this dimension is to the wing stowing.
Thanks for any comments
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | repairs ...almost |
Last Saturday my dad (Roger) and brother (Jim) were in town, and so
naturally there's interest in them both getting a little Kolb time.
It was the second shot at it for each of them. I tried to get things
happening before the winds kicked up, and that worked out fine for
Roger. But Jim was late, and I let myself think all would be fine.
Afterall, his last flight about 6 weeks previous went very well; he
had done great at what i consider the hard part, that is, the very
brief flare. So I said let's do it.
Wind was about 8-12mph, usually straight ahead but while he was up,
it had begun to swing to almost 90 degrees from the left about half
the time. Jim made about 3 reasonable landings, but went around for
one more to supposedly finish on a really good note. But nooooo.
He landed a bit fast and bounced mildly, and this was during one of those
halves with the left cross wind. The mains acted as a pivot point, the
Xwind blowing the tail around, and Jim not knowing fast or naturally enf
how to correct for it. As it came down from the bounce the left main was
not on the ground, and the right tire was skidding as my precious
plane was beginning to ground loop. I can still hear the big tundra
tire squealing, and picture the right wing tip getting oh so close to
scraping the cement. Jim finaly got the correction in, and as well,
the plane had slowed down and turned into the wind enf that the left
wing and main gear came back down.
My mistake was compromising on the original plan to get this done before
the wind picked up. I too easily set those concerns aside, and nearly
paid for it with the down time of repairs, and Jim feeling even worse.
(After the landing he taxied straight over to the nearest parking area
and got out with his head hangin pretty low.) I've always thought
flying safety is a matter of judgement calls, and I blew it on this one.
The only up side is that each of us is now the wiser ...I think he
has mentally rehearsed Xwind taildragger landings 100+ times since.
Hope you too can benefit from reading this.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: rec.aviation.ultrlight |
Reply:
Also copy EAA headquarters. They need to be aware of it. It would
seem Paul may need some remedial training.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Fwd: rec.aviation.ultrlight
Date: 7/4/97 8:23 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Paul Harvey's Report on UL's
From: mike mcswain <mickeymc(at)shelby.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Jul 1997 10:44:02 -0400
Anyone listen to Paul Harvey on July 1, 1997? His comments on
ultralights began like this:
"An older gentleman, wanting to prove his manhood, decided to do so by
flying an ultralight, you know, those flimsy airplanes with lawnmower
engines, etc...."
Needless to say nothing good was said about ultralights and the man
crashed in the top of a tree. Nothing was mentioned about training,
health, actual age or anymore details.
I would like to encourage everyone to write Paul Harvey and ask him
please not to report on anything he obiviously know nothing about,
especially ultralights.
Write to:
Paul Harvey News
333 N. Michigan Ave
Suite 1600
Chicago, Il 60601
One thing that I would like to know is what kind of lawnmower has an
engine that will power my Drifter, I could probably buy the whole
lawnmower cheaper than a Rotax engine!!!!
Thanks Mike M
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jhann Gestur Jhannsson <johanng(at)ok.is> |
| Subject: | Ultralight flight instructions? |
Hi Kolb flyers.
I will be staying in Florida in august, around the Jacksonville area,
and would like to know if there is anyone in that neighborhood,
who is a flight instructor on a Kolb Mark III?
A few members of my ultralight club here in Iceland are looking for
a Quicksilver 2-place ( sport of sprint ) for sale, in the same area.
Thank you for all the support during my building process.
Best regards,
Jhann G.
ICELAND.
E-mail: johanng(at)ok.is
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic@dfw> |
| Subject: | Post this to the Kolb list? |
>Return-Path:
>Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 19:54:53 -0400 (EDT)
>From: MSM000(at)aol.com
>Subject: Post this to the Kolb list?
>Kolb TWINSTAR for sale!
>
>-Kit completed in Jan 1995,
>-140 hr TT AF&E
>-FLYS AND HANDLES GREAT!
>
>-Rotax 503 DC DI OI (oil injection currently disconnected as personal
>choice,)
>-IVO 3 Blade Ground Adj Prop
>-Full instruments, 3" Asi, 3"Tach/hour, 3" Colesman altimeter, 2 1/4"
>Duel-CHT, EGT, Volts,
>-Oak instrument panel, Instrument illumination, Nav lights, Duel strobe
>lights,
>-Duel landing lights, (55 watt Quartz-Halogen)
>-Quicksilver"hard" seats
>-Matco, duel, differential brakes, (brake from either seat).
>-Extended Landing gear, with 16" Tundra tires,
>-Stits covering, 10 year life if stored in the sun,
>-Always hangared,
>-Custom 3/4 enclosure, Pod,
>-Flaps,
>
>NEVER, NEVER, NEVER "THUMPED" OR HURT!
>
>Asking $12,000.
>
>See this plane at: Mike Michalski's
>USUA AFI 0004 Qnet
>
>Will check out new owner in this plane for free. (up to 5 hrs.)
>
>Mike Michalski
>USUA AFI #0004
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (6 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: My own designs |
Ron wrote and I wrote again: I like this approach. I was thinking of adding
the aileron counter
balances as a precaution anyway.
>I have a Firestar 2, and when I fold the wings I do not fold them in (it
>stretches the gap seal and rips it and just messes it up) , I leave them
>sticking straight up, and made a bracket that attaches to the aileron
counter
>balance to hold them from moving during transport when they are folded.
>FYII will be glad to send more information on my designs. I'm no engineer,
but I have taken a lot of time to build things such as: The device to hold
the ailerons upright for travel when the wings are folded. Another, a device
to hold the aileron pushrods (keeps them from banging around), an angled
sawhorse that folds down for transport that enables one to set up the
airplane by yourself Here no one else is needed to hold the wing tip while
you attach the center pin and attach the strut. I am also in the works of
designing a caster wheel attachment for the boom tube that will alow one to
move the rear of the plane around while the wings are folded as if it had a
full swivel tail wheel, it will also act as the boom support for trailering.
I find it hard to pick up the tail and move it from side to side to move it
on and off of my trailer oan then into my garage. (good thing I was ablr to
get a hanger at the airport) I talked to Kolb at Sun in Fun about this and
Dennis and I chatted and he gave me some good ideas and seemed to like my
idea. I also took a piece of wood and drilled 2 holes (hole size the diameter
of the leading edge) to hold the tips of the leading edge apart for
transport. Without this the leading edge hits where the aileron pushrods
attach and will dig into the fabric after time. I also built a flatbed
trailer for the firestar 2 that enables the whole plane to be sitting on the
trailer (no parts of the plane hang over the edge) I built it out of a
channel that the tires roll on and it really made an awsom trailer that I
pull with my Nissan truck. Total cost with new tires and rime about $1300. I
also talked to Dan the Kolb welder about my trailer and he also seemed to
like my design.
I would be glad to share my designs wih anbody interested.
Hope to not have bored anybody.
tim loehrke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skip(at)netline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My own designs |
Tim,
I've tried sending this directly to your address and it keeps bouncing
back. My apologies to the reflector for using it for a personal note.
>I would be glad to share my designs wih anbody interested.
I just recently lost my Ultrastar's hangar and have moved the aircraft
into a neighbor's garage and shortly will have to move it to my garage.
(as soon as I can make room for it :)
It sounds as if you've done your homework and I like your ideas, especially
concerning the trailer and aircraft support when on the trailer. It looks
as if the trailer route is the way I'm going to have to go if I wish to
keep flying my ultralight.
If you can scan your trailer design and send it as an attachment that
would be great. If not, I'd be glad to re-imburse you for any copying
and mailing expenses. The address here is: Skip Staub, 308 Sally Lee
Drive, Ellenton, FL 34222.
Regards,
Skip
1984 Ultrastar
1946 Globe Swift
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | FireFly - Left Rudder Cable Interference |
FireFly builders need you suggestions.
Any of you building a FireFly have an interference problem between the
control stick lower elevator control arm where the elevator cable
attaches and the left rudder cable. Seeing an example can help nut
don't have one here to look at.
Were looking at installing an additional pulley off the stick support
tube which connects between the horizontal front bar of the seat down
to the smaller diameter tube on the bottom of the cage.
Looking at using some 3/4" aluminum angle stock with a bolt in the
side and rivet it to the tube running from the seat to the lower cage
tube. A pulley with a cable guard would be mounted on the bolt. The
pulley has to be placed low enough that the cable will always track on
it (lower side) but not so low as to put a lot of force on it where it
will increase control friction. The cable guard will also act as a
cable keeper, keeping the cable on the pulley should the cable slacken
up.
Any comments, looking for suggestions.
Jerry & Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
skip(at)netline.net, Kolb(at)intrig.com
| Subject: | Re: My own designs |
Re: my trailer and transporting designs posted a few days ago:
I sure got a lot of requests for my trailer design. I will be glad to help
all with photos and some sketches. I am a photographer, so I will scan in
some photos and make prints and then can mail them to you via the post
office, so if you all want some information, e-mail me your address, or if
you can view a JPEG image here, I can e-mail you some photos, either way, let
me know. This might even be a good time to build a home page, might consider
that also.
tim loehrke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <IBIMIAMI(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax 912 Alternative? |
Just saw in the July Experimenter a few lines and photos on the British made
Montavia Ultratec 80 engine that is due to hit the market this month.
The specs are interesting.
* 4-Stroke
* 80HP
* Dry weight 121 Lbs. ( including exhaust, gearbox, electric start, oil pump,
oil tank and radiator)
* "List" Price $7,395.00
At 20+% below the price of the 912 and slightly lighter, it has my attention
as a possibility for use on the Mk III.
Does anybody out there know anything about the engine, the reputation of the
company or that of their US reps (Montavia USA - Port Angeles, Washington
360/452-0117)?
Thanks,
Peter Volum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard G. Penny" <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se> |
| Subject: | Alive and ...well.?.. |
Believe it or not, I am still here. Have been swamped by changing job
responsibilities and other interests and obligations for quite a while
now. I just have in the past few days started studying the revised
plans I received months ago. Quite a few conflicts on the horizontal
stabilizer sheet! Back in February, I did manage to get the elevators
built.
Russell, you're the man! I know you are behind on your schedule, but
you're making great progress. Now that you have covered the fuse, have
you had two onboard and if so what was the claustrophobic index for the
rear seat?
I hope to update my web page soon with progress reports. My father has
bought a Sky Raider from Flying K in the quick build form. I will post
his progress as well. BTW the kit he received is powder-coated and very
nice.
I'll try to not such a stranger.
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Duffy [SMTP:rad(at)pen.net]
...................................... I may be the only SlingShot
builder on
the mail list. Anybody else out there?
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alive and ...well.?.. |
----------
From: Howard G. Penny <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se>
Subject: Kolb-List: Alive and ...well.?..
Date: Tuesday, July 15, 1997 11:35 AM
Believe it or not, I am still here. Have been swamped by changing job
responsibilities and other interests and obligations for quite a while now.
I just have in the past few days started studying the revised plans I
received months ago. Quite a few conflicts on the horizontal stabilizer
sheet! Back in February, I did manage to get the elevators built.
Russell, you're the man! I know you are behind on your schedule, but
you're making great progress. Now that you have covered the fuse, have you
had two onboard and if so what was the claustrophobic index for the rear
seat?
I hope to update my web page soon with progress reports. My father has
bought a Sky Raider from Flying K in the quick build form. I will post his
progress as well. BTW the kit he received is powder-coated and very nice.
I'll try to not such a stranger.
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Duffy [SMTP:rad(at)pen.net]
...................................... I may be the only SlingShot builder
on
the mail list. Anybody else out there?
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
Russell
I have just sold my firestar II , and I ordered a slingshot 7 / 7 /
97.
John Russell
----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi,
My name is Jeremy Casey. I live in Phenix City, AL. and after 2 visits to
Sun-n-Fun(It was both!)
I am seriously considering building a Mark III. I am going to be
undertaking this task with my father who is a 4500hr+ Army
pilot(Rotary+fixed wing). BUT.... We are trying to find someone in our
general neck-of-the-woods to get some time with both now(to see if this is
the plane for us) and later(familiarization before our own test flights).
All that to say this... does anyone know of anyone who gives
"instruction"(or whatever the FAA/USUA want to call it) in a MARK III in
the AL./GA./North Florida area ??? Or a builder who wouldn't mind a visit
on a Saturday afternoon to let us look at a project in progress???
Been watching the newsletter for awhile now and a got a good idea of the
questions I will be asking in a few months. Keep the chat coming...
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pat kegebein <pak(at)niia.net> |
Hi my name is Bruce,
I am building a Kolb Mark 3. I am wondering if there is any body else
that is building one, or has already built one. I have almost everything
covered with the finishing tapes on it except the cage which is almost
covered but no finishing tapes on it. If you have built a Mark 3, or are
almost finished can you tell me what you would have done differently, or
did do something different on your plane. I have made some changes like
putting two 10 gallon gas tanks on it so I can fly for some distances in
it. I am also wanting to know what instruments or different things you
have put on the instrument panel. I would really like to know what other
people have done on their planes.
Thank you very much,
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alive and ...well.?.. |
Howard Penny wrote:
> Believe it or not, I am still here.
Glad to hear it. I had wondered what happened to you. Now get to work :-)
> Now that you have covered the fuse, have you
> had two onboard and if so what was the claustrophobic index for the rear
> seat?
I don't think covering changed the index much. With the back windows off
as they will be for summer use, the back seat really isn't too
wife can barf out the window rather than on the back of my head during the
one token ride that she'll take :-)
John Russell wrote:
> Russell
> I have just sold my firestar II , and I ordered a slingshot 7 / 7 /
> 97.
Glad to hear it. Which engine are you going to use?
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | trailer requests. |
I received a lot of requests for photos and drawings of my trailer and the
items I use to hold the plane during trailering. I plan to make photos and
drawings and mail them to all who want them. To make it simple send me a self
addressed envelope with 2 stamps (should be enough to cover several pages)
and as I received them I will fill them and drop them in the mail. It should
take a while to get the packages together, so I should have them ready as the
envelopes trickle in.
Tim Loehrke
370 Pennsylvania Avenue
Shreveport, La 70015
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Tachometer question |
Who knows about tachometer compatibility between
377/447's and 503's. I have a tach that runs off
the lighting coils on a 377. Will it read acurately
from the lighting coils on my 503? Or do I need a
new tach? Any help will be appreciated.
John Jung
377 Firestar (flying)
Firestar II (under construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weight/balance, V speeds |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
JIM
I THINK THAT DENNIS WOULD BE THE ONE TO ANSWER THE V speed questions
BUT I CAN TELL YOU THIS THAT SUNDAY I TOOK A 100 mi. X-COUNTRY
IN THE M III JUST ABOUT HALF WAY THEIR I STARTED A SHALLOW DIVE TO SEE
IF I COULD SEE ANY FLUTTER WELL I GOT TO 100 mph AND IN MY OPTION
THIS IS FAST ENOUGHT IF NOT TO FAST IN A M III WELL THEIR WAS NO
FLUTER JUST TOTALLY SMOOTH ALL CONTROL RESPONSE GOOD . BUT WHAT DID
HAPPEN WAS I NOTICED A DRAFT COMMING IN THROUGH THE REAR SIDE WINDOW
WELL WHAT HAD HAPPEN WAS THIS I DRILLED THE HOLES IN THE LEXAN 1/8
THIS IS WRONG IT SHOULD BE LARGER
WELL ANYWAY I HAD TO REACH OUT AND HOLD THE WINDOW IN WITH MY LEFT HAND
AND FIND A STRIP AND IN A HURRY LEXAN AND PROPS DON'T MIX AT 3000
ft. WELL ANYWAY THAT IS MY V speed STORY
On Mon, 7 Jul 9RICK LIBERSAT N106RL
GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" writes:
>I did the weight & balance this weekend and I have a question: The
>text
>in the kolb Mkiii manual (page 64, Nov 1995) says to keep the CG
>between
>20 and 35% of the wing cord. The plans book page 43 allows this range
>to
>be from 20% to 37%. I am asking for clarification because I fall at
>36.8%
>when flying solo and full of fuel. BTW, the full-oil and empty fuel
>weight
>of our Mkiii came in at 467lbs.
> V speeds: What are builders using for the V speeds that need to be
>marked
>on the airspeed indicator for Experimental Registration?
>Specifically, I
>need the Vfe (max velocity flaps can be extended), the Caution Range
>(usually
>marked in yellow, it is the upper range just below Never-Exceed, to be
>operated
>in the yellow only in smooth air), and I am looking for Maneuvering
>Speed
>which is the maximum speed at which full and abrupt control input can
>be made
>without damage to the aircraft.
> I will also send this note directly to Dennis. Thanks again guys!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com (Christina Reynen) |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Alternative |
>Peter Volum wrote:
>>
>> Just saw in the July Experimenter a few lines and photos on the
British made
>> Montavia Ultratec 80 engine that is due to hit the market this
month.
>>
>> The specs are interesting.
>>
>> * 4-Stroke
>> * 80HP
>> * Dry weight 121 Lbs. ( including exhaust, gearbox, electric start,
oil pump,
>> oil tank and radiator)
>> * "List" Price $7,395.00
>>
>> At 20+% below the price of the 912 and slightly lighter, it has my
attention
>> as a possibility for use on the Mk III.
>>
>> Does anybody out there know anything about the engine, the
reputation of the
>> company or that of their US reps (Montavia USA - Port Angeles,
Washington
>> 360/452-0117)?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Peter Volum
>
Hi Peter:
I was also interested in this engine for my Mark-III but after
receiving the info and looking at the specs carefully, it did not look
so good specifically compared to the 912.
I posted this info on the Kolb group one month ago and will submit it
again to see if anyone got a response from Motavia or its US rep.
I never heard from them again and needless to say I will NOT switch to
this engine.
>Ultratec horses missing.
While reading the May '97 issue of UL-flying I became very interested
in the article about this new 4-stroke Ultratec-60 or 80hp engine build
by Motavia Lmtd.
I wanted this engine to eventually replace the Rotax 582 currently on
my MARK-III (on LOTUS floats) which can use the 80 hp performance (even
with the modest increase in weight--15 lbs heavier), in addition to
4-stroke reliability and fuel injection at much lower cost compared to
a Rotax 912.
I requested and received the published performance specs on the
Ultratec-80HP engine.
The spec.sheet claims an 80 HP performance at 6500 rpm.
Checking this with the standard hpX5250=torqueXrpm formula, to produce
80 hp
at 6500rpm requires 64.4 ftlbs of torque (at 6500 rpm). Their data
specifies a max. torque of 58 ftlbs at 5500 rpm and declining with
increasing rpm. Even using
Ultratec's value of 58 ftlbs torque flat out to 6500 rpm, it would only
produce 72 hp.
Doublechecking the numbers with the Ultratec data given in the metric
system gave similar results. (60 KW @6500 rpm; Max torque 80 Nm @5500
rpm claimed produces only 54.4 KW @ 6500rpm with flat torque
performance.)
So no typo's or translation errors there.
The 80 hp Rotax 912 torque curve (CPS catalog) shows 75 ftlbs at 5500
rpm so it is likely that the Rotax claim of producing 80 hp (requiring
70 ftlbs torque) at 6000 rpm value is correct.
If Motavia's numbers are correct, the Ultratec-80 engine is only a
modest 70 hp by comparison.
I contacted the US dealer and the British manufacturer by E-mail with
the same concerns several weeks ago but except for a reply from the US
dealer to be patient, "they were busy building engines", I have not
heard anything from them.
The Ultratec80 engine (complete with all accessories) is priced at
$7395 (less $500 if you order immediately), compared to around $9000
for a Rotax 912.
One other point (gripe) regarding the spec. sheet: Fuel usage was
stated as an unspecified 6L/hr (1.6 Gall/hr), and when I requested
clarification, received the answer that this is at 50% power
setting. This powersetting I use only during flair-out and landing my
floatplane. Is there anybody that can maintain airspeed and altitude
at that setting (unless over-powered!)?
Frank Reynen (BSME) Mark-III @383.5 hrs (:-(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Silk Road Project <silkroad(at)omega.turk.net> |
| Subject: | New electric fuel pump |
Hi all!
Don't know if anyone might be interested, but I wanted to mention a new
style of electric fuel pump that I found. I bought the one that I have at
Checkers Auto Parts.
This fuel pump is made by Purolator, and is very simple in design and small
in size. I have not dissected one yet, but the info on the outside of the
package says that there are only 2 moving parts. I suspect that the
operating mechanism uses a small, solid state electronic switching circuit
to alternately reverse the magnetic field in a coil and cause a piston to
oscillate back and forth.
This pump can be purchased in either a high or low output pressure and is
very inexpensive. Cheap as it is, it appears to be very well made, and
inspires confidence, which is not a bad thing in an airplane fuel pump! :-)
One other thing is that it carries the Purolator name, which indicates that
it is not a fly by night operation. The pump package states that it is "made
in the USA".
If anyone wants further info, just let me know and I will post it. Just
thought that it might be usefull info.
Best wishes all!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Silk Road Project <silkroad(at)omega.turk.net> |
| Subject: | New electric fuel pump |
Hi all!
Don't know if anyone might be interested, but I wanted to mention a new
style of electric fuel pump that I found. I bought the one that I have at
Checkers Auto Parts.
This fuel pump is made by Purolator, and is very simple in design and small
in size. I have not dissected one yet, but the info on the outside of the
package says that there are only 2 moving parts. I suspect that the
operating mechanism uses a small, solid state electronic switching circuit
to alternately reverse the magnetic field in a coil and cause a piston to
oscillate back and forth.
This pump can be purchased in either a high or low output pressure and is
very inexpensive. Cheap as it is, it appears to be very well made, and
inspires confidence, which is not a bad thing in an airplane fuel pump! :-)
One other thing is that it carries the Purolator name, which indicates that
it is not a fly by night operation. The pump package states that it is "made
in the USA".
If anyone wants further info, just let me know and I will post it. Just
thought that it might be usefull info.
Best wishes all!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alive and ...well.?.. |
----------
> From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net>
> To: Kolb list
> Subject: Re: Alive and ...well.?..
> Date: Tuesday, July 15, 1997 6:05 PM
>
> Howard Penny wrote:
>
> > Believe it or not, I am still here.
>
> Glad to hear it. I had wondered what happened to you. Now get to work
:-)
>
> > Now that you have covered the fuse, have you
> > had two onboard and if so what was the claustrophobic index for the
rear
> > seat?
>
> I don't think covering changed the index much. With the back windows off
> as they will be for summer use, the back seat really isn't too
> wife can barf out the window rather than on the back of my head during
the
> one token ride that she'll take :-)
>
>
>
> John Russell wrote:
>
> > Russell
> > I have just sold my firestar II , and I ordered a slingshot 7 / 7
/
> > 97.
>
> Glad to hear it. Which engine are you going to use?
>
> Russell Duffy
> SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
> rad(at)pen.net
> http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
> Russell,
I have my heart set on a 912 , but I'll have to wait and see how
my funds holdout, If not the 912 probably the 618.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
| Subject: | MKIII construction details |
You might want to check out my building photos on
http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/index.htm .
Others on this list are far more expert, but I'd be real careful about
adding the 60 pounds of additional weight when you increased the fuel
capacity. On my plane, this would have put it seriously over gross
weight with two 200 pound passengers. You also have to be careful of
the weight and balance, particularly for solo flight where the center of
gravity is already too far aft according to factory specs.
There is a picture of my instrument panel on
http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/panel197.jpg . Dan, the test pilot at
Kolb, told me he liked this setup as the instruments are easy to read.
For the 20 hours I now have on the plane, I have been very satisfied
with the switch panel (http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/image09.jpg.)
I think you can buy this pre-made from Kuntzleman Electronics - call
Dick Kuntzleman at 610 326 9068 if you're interested. I mounted it in
the wing gap seal.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: pat kegebein [SMTP:pak(at)niia.net]
>Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 1997 4:10 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: kolb
>
>Hi my name is Bruce,
> I am building a Kolb Mark 3. I am wondering if there is any body else
>that is building one, or has already built one. I have almost everything
>covered with the finishing tapes on it except the cage which is almost
>covered but no finishing tapes on it. If you have built a Mark 3, or are
>almost finished can you tell me what you would have done differently, or
>did do something different on your plane. I have made some changes like
>putting two 10 gallon gas tanks on it so I can fly for some distances in
>it. I am also wanting to know what instruments or different things you
>have put on the instrument panel. I would really like to know what other
>people have done on their planes.
>
> Thank you very much,
>
> Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Mark III For Sale |
Beautiful Mark III, 503 dcdi, completed and test flown this year. Dual
controls, full canopy, 2nd Chance compressed-air-powered chute, Kuntzelman
strobe and instrument power supply, brakes, Warp Drive prop, TT~10Hrs, always
hangared. $18,000 invested: will sell for $14,500. (904) 878-9047, North
Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: instructors??? |
>Hi,
>My name is Jeremy Casey. I live in Phenix City, AL. and after 2 visits to
>Sun-n-Fun(It was both!)
>I am seriously considering building a Mark III. I am going to be
>undertaking this task with my father who is a 4500hr+ Army
>pilot(Rotary+fixed wing). BUT.... We are trying to find someone in our
>general neck-of-the-woods to get some time with both now(to see if this is
>the plane for us) and later(familiarization before our own test flights).
>All that to say this... does anyone know of anyone who gives
>"instruction"(or whatever the FAA/USUA want to call it) in a MARK III in
>the AL./GA./North Florida area ??? Or a builder who wouldn't mind a visit
>on a Saturday afternoon to let us look at a project in progress???
>Been watching the newsletter for awhile now and a got a good idea of the
>questions I will be asking in a few months. Keep the chat coming...
>Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
See if you can get hold of a fellow named Glen Rinck in Grand Ridge,
Fla, near Marianna. He sold me an Easy Riser about 18-20 years ago, and is
still in the sport, and probably knows every body in that area. Seems I saw
a photo in one of the magazines lately of a Kolb he had built or helped build.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tachometer question |
>Who knows about tachometer compatibility between
>377/447's and 503's. I have a tach that runs off
>the lighting coils on a 377. Will it read acurately
>from the lighting coils on my 503? Or do I need a
>new tach? Any help will be appreciated.
>John Jung
>377 Firestar (flying)
>Firestar II (under construction)
>
The 277,377,447, and single ignition 503 should all accept the same
tach. There is a wire loop on the back of the tach that you modify for the
277 single vs. the twin cyl engines. (You clip the loop for changing from
one to the other, but I can't remember which one needs the clipping...) The
dual ignition Rotax twins use a different tach.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>Hi my name is Bruce,
> I am building a Kolb Mark 3. I am wondering if there is any body else
>that is building one, or has already built one. I have almost everything
>covered with the finishing tapes on it except the cage which is almost
>covered but no finishing tapes on it. If you have built a Mark 3, or are
>almost finished can you tell me what you would have done differently, or
>did do something different on your plane. I have made some changes like
>putting two 10 gallon gas tanks on it so I can fly for some distances in
>it. I am also wanting to know what instruments or different things you
>have put on the instrument panel. I would really like to know what other
>people have done on their planes.
>
> Thank you very much,
>
> Bruce
>
Currently have about 75 hours on my MKIII and will be pulling it
down this winter to make the following changes on it:
Extend the wing span 3' and droop the tips.
Change the windshield so that the top 1/3-1/4th of the windshield
curves back slightly and terminates. Modify the doors so that they are not
quite so bulbous , but conform more to the width of the fuselage, and are
open right beside you. Have them terminate at the upper end to match the new
windshield height. Add a turtledeck that comes just even with the top of the
pilots / passengers head. The reason for this change is : flying a Kolb
Twinstar MKII is quite revealing. It will fly two people at a lower power
setting, and with very little wind/turbulence in the face,and all it has is
a little bikini fairing, and abbreviated windshield. The MKIII , if you take
the doors off, has tremendous cockpit wind,and with the doors on, and the
rear enclosure off, a strong backflow of wind hits you in the back of the
neck. If you put the radiator at the rear of the cage, below the wing, the
water temp stays too high, doors on . Also the MKIII takes more power to
sustain altitude. (It is heavier also) My thinking is that the MKIII
windshield /door arrangement creates a lot of drag/turbulence under the
center section of the wing, along with poor airflow and no lift in that
area, whereas the MKII had no windshield/doors to kill the lift under the
center section, or create drag. By opening up the top of the windshield,
snugging in the doors, and adding a turtledeck over the gas tanks, the MKIII
should become more efficient. Probably slower too, but that's ok.
Both of these changes are to enable flight at lower throttle
settings which will reduce the noise level, and increase the STOL/ climbout
ability. I have a short, take-no-prisoners airstrip, and I want my MKIII to
be even better than it already is.
Add spades to the ailerons. The MKIII is light in the elevators and
rudder, but heavy on ailerons. This is a personal preference.
Replace the sling seats with Azusa seats. This is safety related. A
real bad landing/crash will have that lower tube the sling seat is rivited
to hammering your tailbone. The British Civil Aviation Authority will not
sign off a Kolb with sling seats. (check their web page for accidents)
Modify the flap handle slightly so that the handle can allow the
flaps to lay parallel to the under surface when two up, and droop a hair
when solo.
Should improve trim.
I have no idea how well these ideas will improve things, but none of
them should cause any problems if they don't. (Except the spades, so I
promise to start small and be careful!) If the droop tips work good, I will
be saving the molds, and bragging about them!(send money to...)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Ignition Switch for Rotax 447 |
What is required for an ignition switch on a Rotax 447?
Does it ground the ignition when its in off position or what? I need
to know for shopping for a key switch.
Jerry Bidle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight/balance, V speeds |
> ABOUT HALF WAY THEIR I STARTED A SHALLOW DIVE TO SEE
> IF I COULD SEE ANY FLUTTER WELL I GOT TO 100 mph AND IN MY OPTION
> THIS IS FAST ENOUGHT IF NOT TO FAST IN A M III WELL THEIR WAS NO
> FLUTER JUST TOTALLY SMOOTH ALL CONTROL RESPONSE GOOD .
Yeah, I thought my FS 2 was impervious, too. 55 hrs total and no
flutter but on takeoff last Sunday I held in ground effect to about
65 MPH and started a pull-up. Started to flutter mildly. Reduced
power and pulled a little more aft stick to bleed airspeed and it
stopped. The end of the wing tip was divergent axially about 1 to 2
inches.
I've been up to 85 (VNE 90) and no problem. But keep in mind that
there is something about the attitude, power setting,
conditions.....SOMETHING that induced flutter at that set of
circumstances and it could bite again.
Maybe I should add the counter-balances that are hanging on the wall
( didn't put them on because they were rcvd after completion and I
hadn't had any flutter)
Word to the wise......
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
Elmore City OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Switch for Rotax 447 |
On Thu, 17 Jul 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> What is required for an ignition switch on a Rotax 447?
>
> Does it ground the ignition when its in off position or what? I need
> to know for shopping for a key switch.
Yes, it grounds the ignition in OFF. I.E. the engine will start when the
switch circuit is OPEN (on). In my mind, this negates the value of an
ignition key, as anybody who wants to start the engine can simply snip
(open) the correct wire.
Couple other options:
- Easy: when you leave your plane, pull the carb bowl and take the
main jet with you. The thief or idiot-in-a-hurry won't take the time
to figure out why it doesn't start or barely runs ...unless he reads
this. :-p
- wrap/lock a good cable around the prop/engine
- use a fuel line disconnect and take your gas tank with you.
- ?: maybe there's a ignition key that installs on the engine itself.
This would only need to be a normally closed switch in parallel with
a kill switch in the cockpit ...don't know if this is avail.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Switch for Rotax 447 |
>On Thu, 17 Jul 1997 jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
>> What is required for an ignition switch on a Rotax 447?
>>
>> Does it ground the ignition when its in off position or what? I need
>> to know for shopping for a key switch.
>
>Yes, it grounds the ignition in OFF. I.E. the engine will start when the
>switch circuit is OPEN (on). In my mind, this negates the value of an
>ignition key, as anybody who wants to start the engine can simply snip
>(open) the correct wire.
>
>Couple other options:
> - Easy: when you leave your plane, pull the carb bowl and take the
> main jet with you. The thief or idiot-in-a-hurry won't take the time
> to figure out why it doesn't start or barely runs ...unless he reads
> this. :-p
> - wrap/lock a good cable around the prop/engine
> - use a fuel line disconnect and take your gas tank with you.
> - ?: maybe there's a ignition key that installs on the engine itself.
> This would only need to be a normally closed switch in parallel with
> a kill switch in the cockpit ...don't know if this is avail.
>
> --------|--------
> Ben Ransom (*)
> Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
> http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
Just happened to be discussing this problem last Sat. about the ease a wire
could be snipped and the engine started. We went through a lot of ideas and
ended up with a padlock on the pull cord to prevent it from being turned over.
Keep in mind a lock will stop an honest man.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Hi,
I attempted to put a three phase regulator- rectifier on my 447. It is
of the single set of plugs type. The best that I could get was 8 volts
even with a load the thing. I eventually sent it back thinking that they
would replace it, but they sent my money back. The question that I have
is: all of the information on these things show a dual ignition, will
they work with just a single ignition? I am willing to put a battery in
the plane, although reluctantly, but I don't want to go through the
hassle again if the things won't work with my engine.
Thanks
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | McCulloch Engine |
I have an opportunity to buy ($500) a McCulloch Model AF 0-100-1, 72 HP,
which is the 4 cylinder air cooled engine popular with Benson Gyrocopters.
Any comments how this engine might be suitable for use in a Mark III?
Surely the engine mount arrangement would need to be modified.
Thanks for any comments.
Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Olendorf(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Switch for Rotax 447 |
> Just happened to be discussing this problem last Sat. about the ease a wire
> could be snipped and the engine started. We went through a lot of ideas and
> ended up with a padlock on the pull cord to prevent it from being turned
over.
> Keep in mind a lock will stop an honest man.
Someone could still hand prop it. I put a chain and lock around the prop
hub, between the prop and redrive. You would have to be insane to try to
start the engine like this.
Scoot Olendorf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: McCulloch Engine |
>
>I have an opportunity to buy ($500) a McCulloch Model AF 0-100-1, 72 HP,
>which is the 4 cylinder air cooled engine popular with Benson Gyrocopters.
>
>Any comments how this engine might be suitable for use in a Mark III?
>
>
>
Depends. If your airplane is too light, you could carry it as ballast.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McCullough <airman1(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Hello fellow listers ,
I have the money in hand and I'm about to commit to buying a late model
Kolb Twinstar, serial number TS-0094 and first registered 23 December
1987. This aircraft was damaged in a windstorm according to the current
owner. The aircraft has been repaired but is still unassembled,
uncovered and without engine. All remaining material is said to be
there. I'm estimating about 1.5 years to complete.
I need your experience(s)and advice as this is my first homebuilt.
1. Question: Are there any peculiarities about this aircraft ?? There
were three models of this craft built, basic, Mark I and Mark II. This
is the basic model.
2. Question: What about kudos and applauds ?
3. Question: Does $3000.00 sound reasonable for this ?? I realize
this is very subjective but the wings are assembled, not covered, and my
inspection seems to reveal no shortcomings with all the remaining
material.
4. All the original drawings are included but the construction manual
is missing. Would anyone have a copy or be willing to copy a
construction manual for this aircraft ?? I will be happy to pay copy
and mailing costs.
5. Is there anything in particular I should look for ??
6. Has anyone ever added the composite fairing from the Mark I to the
basic Twinstar?? It has a larger windscreen that I'm interested in and
seems to have the lexan doors which enable more flying year round.
I already called Kolb and an employee named Dan faxed me a copy of the
info sheet on the aircraft ( within 1/2 hour of my call !!) . This type
of support and certainly the designs and features of the Kolb aircraft
are some of the reasons I have always been interested in Kolbs.
Any informatiion or comments are welcomed.
^ _ |
______|_|_| ^
| / |
_0_ | / |
__/_/ / | /_ __ ____________________
/ _\__/ | / / /GM\ / George McCullough |
\_/__\____|/_/____________/____\______/airman1(at)ix.netcom.com|
/ \ \ (603)889-8707 |
/ O \____________________|
O
http://pw1.netcom.com/~airman1/hangar.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Hi all,
While doing some of the detail stuff on the SlingShot, I'm building a list
of things I don't know. I will probably have to post several of these
messages in the next few weeks.
1- I safety wired the exhaust springs from both ends of the spring, and
even wrapped each wire around the tang again to make sure that the wire
itself can't get into the prop unless it breaks in 2 places. There are
several mentions of using high temp RTV in the spring to keep the wires
from breaking. Is this considered mandatory? It seems like the RTV would
make the springs more difficult to remove and reinstall, and the safety
wire is easy to pre-flight and replace if necessary.
2- On a new 503 engine there are 3 M8 threaded holes in the crankcase on
the exhaust side of the motor. Two are toward the PTO end and one is
toward the mag end. The two on the PTO end are perfectly spaced for the
Rotax Regulator. Is this what they're intended for (I doubt it)? Does
anyone see a serious problem with mounting the regulator here? You actually
have to enlarge the holes in the regulator slightly, and use allen head
bolts with a few washers under the reg to space it over another boss of the
crankcase, but otherwise it seems like a great place to me.
3- Has anyone used boat letters for their N-number markings? They seem to
be almost ideal, cheap and available.
I can't remember any of my other questions right now, but things are
proceeding fairly well these days. I have next week off and plan to get
the wings covered and hopefully painted during that time. I just ordered
everything else I could think of from CPS including AV-2 oil, gear box oil,
helmet etc... I got the Pro-Com helmet minus the headset with the hope
that I can use my current headset. I can't understand why all the
communications for UL's seem to use non-aviation standard connectors. They
must really be in the patch cord business :-) Since I already have 2
headsets, intercom, and radio, it's in my interest to try to use them as
is.
Has anyone seen an estimate for how long a SlingShot is supposed to take to
build? I'm at 480 hours so far and probably have 100 to go. Maybe it was
all that fuel tank deliberation (I bet Dennis is glad that's over) :-)
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K (Ready to fly in August- I hope)
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Crandell <Jim.Crandell(at)RobertMondavi.com> |
cmetreaud(at)juno.com, Relander(at)aol.com
| Subject: | RE: McCulloch Engine |
Been hangin' around gyros for 20+ years and can tell you that you really
don't want that thing on your MKIII. Or at least I wouldn't anyway.
It's original design purpose was to power target drones for Air Force
training. Usual expected life of the drone was about two hours.
Obviously it will run longer than that, as the gyros have demonstrated,
but it is not a reliable power plant. Common failures I am aware of are
magnetos and seizing. They do not have an exhaust system. Even custom
exhaust add ons are still very noisey. The horse power rating given for
these engines was a contrived number. It's been a long time since I've
read the actual reports of running them on a dyno, but the numbers are
something like 54 hp for the "72 hp" model.
Also, there is no way I have ever seen or heard of to electric start or
pull rope start the engine. Hand proping is your one and only option.
Also, no oil injection. You gotta pre-mix.
You might try the Popular Rotorcraft homepage for more info:
www.pra.org
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HGRAFF(at)aol.com [SMTP:HGRAFF(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 1997 7:52 PM
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com; TCovert159(at)aol.com; cmetreaud(at)juno.com;
> Relander(at)aol.com
> Subject: McCulloch Engine
>
>
> I have an opportunity to buy ($500) a McCulloch Model AF 0-100-1, 72
> HP,
> which is the 4 cylinder air cooled engine popular with Benson
> Gyrocopters.
>
> Any comments how this engine might be suitable for use in a Mark III?
>
> Surely the engine mount arrangement would need to be modified.
>
> Thanks for any comments.
>
> Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A few questions |
>
>1- I safety wired the exhaust springs from both ends of the spring, and
>even wrapped each wire around the tang again to make sure that the wire
>itself can't get into the prop unless it breaks in 2 places. There are
>several mentions of using high temp RTV in the spring to keep the wires
>from breaking. Is this considered mandatory? It seems like the RTV would
>make the springs more difficult to remove and reinstall, and the safety
>wire is easy to pre-flight and replace if necessary.
>
The RTV is mostly to damp out vibration. The springs will gradually
wear
a bit thinner at the point where they hook to the tang, and the vibration
will work harden them and they break at that point. (BTW, after a couple
hundred hours, the tangs will be worn almost through from the springs
vibrating. You can replace them, or fill up the worn areas with
brass/brazing rod. The brass doesn't wear the springs out as quick).
>3- Has anyone used boat letters for their N-number markings? They seem to
>be almost ideal, cheap and available.
>
I used Lowes vinyl letters. They are black on a reflective white
square background. Took scissors and X-acto and trimmed the silver down to a
1/8" border, looked ok. The FAA may not buy it, the letters are specifically
not supposed to be "peelable vinyl", ask your DAR or FSDO person first.
>
Richard Pike
MKIII N42oP (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Twinstar |
>Hello fellow listers ,
>
> I have the money in hand and I'm about to commit to buying a late model
>Kolb Twinstar, serial number TS-0094 and first registered 23 December
>1987. This aircraft was damaged in a windstorm according to the current
>owner. The aircraft has been repaired but is still unassembled,
>uncovered and without engine. All remaining material is said to be
>there. I'm estimating about 1.5 years to complete.
I built the whole thing in 150 hrs over about 7 months
> I need your experience(s)and advice as this is my first homebuilt.
>
> 1. Question: Are there any peculiarities about this aircraft ?? There
>were three models of this craft built, basic, Mark I and Mark II. This
>is the basic model.
> 2. Question: What about kudos and applauds ?
Great flyer. basic and simple and will compete with anything in the air even
now after being out of production for so many years.
> 3. Question: Does $3000.00 sound reasonable for this ?? I realize
>this is very subjective but the wings are assembled, not covered, and my
>inspection seems to reveal no shortcomings with all the remaining
>material.
"$3000" grab it fast
> 4. All the original drawings are included but the construction manual
>is missing. Would anyone have a copy or be willing to copy a
>construction manual for this aircraft ?? I will be happy to pay copy
>and mailing costs.
Te prints should tell you every thing except final rigging and I assume
this has allready been done. A good how to cover video would be helpfull.
Covering is a very simple and fun process, don't be afraid of it.
> 5. Is there anything in particular I should look for ??
No modifications,substituted parts or bent tubing
> 6. Has anyone ever added the composite fairing from the Mark I to the
>basic Twinstar?? It has a larger windscreen that I'm interested in and
>seems to have the lexan doors which enable more flying year round.
Not me
> I already called Kolb and an employee named Dan faxed me a copy of the
>info sheet on the aircraft ( within 1/2 hour of my call !!) . This type
>of support and certainly the designs and features of the Kolb aircraft
>are some of the reasons I have always been interested in Kolbs.
This is the kind of support you can expect in the future. Most others can't
say the same about their manufacturers.
> Any informatiion or comments are welcomed.
>
> ^ _ |
> ______|_|_| ^
> | / |
> _0_ | / |
> __/_/ / | /_ __ ____________________
> / _\__/ | / / /GM\ / George McCullough |
> \_/__\____|/_/____________/____\______/airman1(at)ix.netcom.com|
> / \ \ (603)889-8707 |
> / O \____________________|
> O
>
> http://pw1.netcom.com/~airman1/hangar.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Wells <tgw(at)aloha.net> |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> >Hi my name is Bruce,
> > I am building a Kolb Mark 3. I am wondering if there is any body else
> >that is building one, or has already built one. I have almost everything
> >covered with the finishing tapes on it except the cage which is almost
> >covered but no finishing tapes on it. If you have built a Mark 3, or are
> >almost finished can you tell me what you would have done differently, or
> >did do something different on your plane. I have made some changes like
> >putting two 10 gallon gas tanks on it so I can fly for some distances in
> >it. I am also wanting to know what instruments or different things you
> >have put on the instrument panel. I would really like to know what other
> >people have done on their planes.
> >
> > Thank you very much,
> >
> > Bruce
> >
>
> Currently have about 75 hours on my MKIII and will be pulling it
> down this winter to make the following changes on it:
> Extend the wing span 3' and droop the tips.
> Change the windshield so that the top 1/3-1/4th of the windshield
> curves back slightly and terminates. Modify the doors so that they are not
> quite so bulbous , but conform more to the width of the fuselage, and are
> open right beside you. Have them terminate at the upper end to match the new
> windshield height. Add a turtledeck that comes just even with the top of the
> pilots / passengers head. The reason for this change is : flying a Kolb
> Twinstar MKII is quite revealing. It will fly two people at a lower power
> setting, and with very little wind/turbulence in the face,and all it has is
> a little bikini fairing, and abbreviated windshield. The MKIII , if you take
> the doors off, has tremendous cockpit wind,and with the doors on, and the
> rear enclosure off, a strong backflow of wind hits you in the back of the
> neck. If you put the radiator at the rear of the cage, below the wing, the
> water temp stays too high, doors on . Also the MKIII takes more power to
> sustain altitude. (It is heavier also) My thinking is that the MKIII
> windshield /door arrangement creates a lot of drag/turbulence under the
> center section of the wing, along with poor airflow and no lift in that
> area, whereas the MKII had no windshield/doors to kill the lift under the
> center section, or create drag. By opening up the top of the windshield,
> snugging in the doors, and adding a turtledeck over the gas tanks, the MKIII
> should become more efficient. Probably slower too, but that's ok.
> Both of these changes are to enable flight at lower throttle
> settings which will reduce the noise level, and increase the STOL/ climbout
> ability. I have a short, take-no-prisoners airstrip, and I want my MKIII to
> be even better than it already is.
> Add spades to the ailerons. The MKIII is light in the elevators and
> rudder, but heavy on ailerons. This is a personal preference.
> Replace the sling seats with Azusa seats. This is safety related. A
> real bad landing/crash will have that lower tube the sling seat is rivited
> to hammering your tailbone. The British Civil Aviation Authority will not
> sign off a Kolb with sling seats. (check their web page for accidents)
> Modify the flap handle slightly so that the handle can allow the
> flaps to lay parallel to the under surface when two up, and droop a hair
> when solo.
> Should improve trim.
> I have no idea how well these ideas will improve things, but none of
> them should cause any problems if they don't. (Except the spades, so I
> promise to start small and be careful!) If the droop tips work good, I will
> be saving the molds, and bragging about them!(send money to...)
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>
>
>
To my MKIII I added side doors that extend only half way back. Looks
sort like a helicopter now.I live in a warm climate and don't need full
enclosure. The cockpit is much more comfortable now and still open.
I have a question regarding tach rpm. Lately when checking the kill
switches (I have a 582), on one cylinder the guage shows an increase
while the rpm actually decreases. I believe this is giving me false
readings at full rpm also, and it had me adjusting my prop pitch all
over the place. Anyway, I read somewhere that the problem is related to
a ground fault somewhere but I sure can't find it. Any ideas?
Terry Wells
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Cullen <chuck(at)kronos.com> |
EAA Chapter 279 is looking to buy a FireStar.
We recently got our Mark III project into the air
and we are in the process of flying off the 40 hrs.
needed before it can be used for instructional purposes.
The Mark III will be used to train and give check rides
to people who want to fly the FireStar.
We have members who have volunteered to drive almost
anywhere to trailer a FireStar back East.
Chap. 279 is located in Hanson, Massachusetts.
Please reply to
ccullen(at)worldnet.att.net
or
Chuck Cullen
Scituate, Massachusetts
(617) 545-7011
FAX: (617) 545-2674
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | evoice(at)acton.com (Doug Prange) |
| Subject: | Re: A few questions |
>>3- Has anyone used boat letters for their N-number markings? They seem to
>>be almost ideal, cheap and available.
>>
> I used Lowes vinyl letters. They are black on a reflective white
>square background. Took scissors and X-acto and trimmed the silver down to a
>1/8" border, looked ok. The FAA may not buy it, the letters are specifically
>not supposed to be "peelable vinyl", ask your DAR or FSDO person first.
I WENT TO A SIGN SHOP THAT IS CAPABLE OF RUNNING OUT VINYL LETTERS/NUMBERS.
I WAS ABLE TO SELECT THE TYPE STYLE, SLANT AND EVEN ADDED A DROP SHADOW
BEHIND THE NUMBERS. THEY'LL SET THE WHOLE THING UP ON A COMPUTER SCREEN FOR
YOUR REVIEW.
THEY LOOK GREAT AND NOT TOO EXPENSIVE
DOUG PRANGE
MARK III-24 HOURS FLIGHT TIME TO DATE
LINCOLN, NEBRASKA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Rael <rael(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | URL change for Kolb page |
My Internet Service Provider is undergoing some changes, so the Kolb home
page's URL is changing. The new URL is:
http://members.iex.net/~rael/kolb/index.html
The old URL using www.usa.net will still work for about the next six
months. If you have pages which link to the Kolb page, please change to
the above URL at your earliest convenience. Thanks.
--
Mike Rael
rael(at)usa.net
http://members.iex.net/~rael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McCullough <airman1(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Almost had a Twinstar |
To those who were kind enough to comment earlier,
I returned to the flyin, money in hand, and examined the Twinstar much
closer. This second closer exam revealed more damage than I cared to
deal with for the price.
The Twinstar was uncovered following "repair". However, standing the
wing on edge revealed several large dents in the leading edge and
trailing edge. Also the blows were hard enough that about every other
rib on the same wing was distorted. One of the airlerons was also bent
and required a rebuid.
Also, the main boom tube was " shortened " by a previous owner. The
current owner says he talked to Dennis and claims that Dennis said it
would make no difference !!!??? What about C.G......What about
shorter/longer control cables??!!..... Wouldn't this make it nose heavy
??!!
Don't misunderstand me, I still love the Kolbs, but this Twinstar, for
the price , had too much damage. The $3500.00 price tag did not include
an engine, fuel tanks, pumps, lines, etc. either. If the current owner
were to drop the price SIGNIFICANTLY, I would look again.
So bottom line if anyone has a lead on reasonably priced Kolbs or some
other types including single seat, let me know. I'm hungry to fly.
I've learned a lot from this near miss.
--
Later.............
^ ___
| _ _________ /| |
|__|_|___/_________\__________/_|__| ^
| \ / 0 /
| \_/._/_| /_ __________________________________________
___/\\ \_/ / /__/| George McCullough
/______/_\_/_/ \| http://www.netcom.com/~airman1/hangar.html
/ \ / |__________________________________________
________()_________()__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
This is not actually Kolb related, but since it is very aviation
related perhaps it will be ok..
I have been putting my two cents worth in for several months now,
and it is time to make my confession: I work for the FAA, more exactly,
Tri-City Approach control in NE Tennessee. See, the FAA really is good for
something after all, it pays for my MKIII and even this computer! (Your tax
dollars at work...) Anyway, if you have ever suffered the indignity of
having "real airplane" drivers look down their nose at your flutterbug, and
make disparaging remarks about your "snowmobile engine", cheer up! "Real
airplane" drivers really do have warts too! Today's was to good not to pass
on, so here it is:
he has his volume/squelch turned down,blocks everybody out, finally hears
approach)
"Cessna 594, approach, go ahead"
"Cessna 594, squawk 0462"
"Cessna 594, ident"
"Cessna 594, there is a button on the front of your
transponder that says'ident', push it."
Approach, my transponder doesn't have one of those, or if it does, I
can't find it"
Don't you just love your snowmobile engine? Ain't you glad not
everybody has as much fun as us?
Richard Pike
MKIII N42oP (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: buy FireStar |
>
>EAA Chapter 279 is looking to buy a FireStar.
>We recently got our Mark III project into the air
>and we are in the process of flying off the 40 hrs.
>needed before it can be used for instructional purposes.
>The Mark III will be used to train and give check rides
>to people who want to fly the FireStar.
>We have members who have volunteered to drive almost
>anywhere to trailer a FireStar back East.
>Chap. 279 is located in Hanson, Massachusetts.
>
>Please reply to
>ccullen(at)worldnet.att.net
>or
>Chuck Cullen
>Scituate, Massachusetts
>(617) 545-7011
>FAX: (617) 545-2674
>
> To Chuck and Whomever:
One of our locals has a Firestar up for sale, he was going to send the ad to
Trade-A-Plane tomorrow, and I told him let me throw it out here first:
Firestar Serial #79, 75 hours TT
Rotax 377, 2-blade wood prop
A&P built, (Yep, he really is, works on 'copters),no modifications
EGT,CHT,Hobbs,ALT,ASI,Slip indicator, Compass
Enclosed trailer included
$11,500
Call Mike, between 9-10 PM eastern @ 423-323-0326
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard G. Penny" <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se> |
| Subject: | RE: A few questions |
Rusty,
I would imagine that you would have the best idea of how long it really
takes to build. I imagine that the factory could knock one much quicker
than any of us. I am amazed how much time I end up using to make a
component. I put about 7.5 hours into the construction of the rudder!
I Still have to go back and rivet it once the =BE" inner sleeve arrives.
One thing I had to remember was that if you get tired or frustrated,
walk away from it for a while to get a fresh outlook.
Oh, by the way, while looking at you build log, I noticed it is one hour
short. (4/12/97 -> 4/19/97)
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
Russell Duffy said:
Has anyone seen an estimate for how long a SlingShot is supposed to take
to
build? I'm at 480 hours so far and probably have 100 to go. Maybe it
was
all that fuel tank deliberation (I bet Dennis is glad that's over) :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To All,
These are some of the things that have been happening lately with my
flights. I have been flying for fun the last few hours without trying to
spend every minute trying to test something or other. Remember, I am a low
time pilot and inexperienced, so don't take this as any expert advice.
I have kept close tabs on fuel/oil useage and think my 582 is not using
enough oil. The overall ratio is coming out about 80/1 or even just a
little bit higher. At first I thought that because the engine was being run
at fairly low RPM's while ground testing that the ratio was pretty much
correct. Since I have been flying and running it at cruise (5 to 6K rpm)
and full throttle during climb the ratio should be coming down and that does
not seem to be the case. I may begin to lace my fuel with enough oil to
lower the ratio to between 50/1 and 70/1. Anyone out there think that is a
bad idea?
I did do some flap testing at altitude and found that they felt pretty much
like a Cessna (with a little lift up and nose over feeling). I lost about
1K feet at idle very quickly and steeply at only about 55 mph. I will not
try them during landings though for quite a while. I can see how useful
they can be to get into a tight spot and shorten a flair. I would consider
them air brakes rather than lift generators.
I have had my Kolb up to 100 mph at full power in fairly smooth air in a
shallow dive and did not notice anything unusual. I don't like the bumpy
feeling of flying that fast, but I did want to know how it felt and how the
airframe held up.
I am about to take off the doors for the summer (the rear enclosure is
already off) and would like to know if that affects the flying
characteristics any and whether I might need to get some goggles. Does the
air curl around the edge of the windshield, blast your face and disturb your
vision or can you fly without that kind of precaution.
I have noticed while doing a lot of touch, touch, touch and go's that the
tires and wheels are not balanced. When they spin up they can give the
airframe a pretty good quiver. It is no big deal except that it really
shakes my instrument panel. It is shock mounted which helps. Is there a
practical way to balance those wheels?
I have noticed that when I get high enough to get into really smooth air
that I can trim out the Kolb to fly hands off (except a hair of left rudder
to keep the yaw string perfectly straight). It will sit there perfectly
steady and maintain altitude and course.
Speaking of yaw string, it doesn't seem to make too much difference whether
you are flying perfectly straight or not like in some other planes. In the
old anemic J3 I flew it made all the difference in the world in rate of
climb, etc. You had to be in the "sweet spot". With the Kolb, it doesn't
seem to make any difference. I guess it is because of the "no fuselage to
speak of" design. I still like to try to fly straight though.
Oshkosh is coming up soon. I wish I was going. Maybe next year.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (10 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Hi everybody,
I f-i-n-a-l-l-y took the time to remount the Kuntelman strobe back on my
plane Sunday. Took me all day, but I sure did enjoy the extended flying
time into the evening again. The hard part was that I relocated the
mount point for the electronics box up out of the way of an otherwise good
baggage spot. I scratched long and hard about the best way to tie this
sucker onto the plane. I ended up making a mount board by fiberglassing
each side of a piece of foam core board, and epoxying it to the airplane
frame. This worked out well: no added holes in the airplane frame or
crappy looking tube clamps and it's light and easy to make into any
desired shape. I can unscrew the electronics box if needed, and also I
made the board big enf that something else can be added later.
On my return flight i got down to 20' AGL -- low enf that you can't
really see your landmark in the distance. I dialed in Home on the GPS
and with the exact ETE (estimated time enroute) was able to squeeze
every last minute out of the 30min-past-sunrise allowed with the strobe.
In the past i would do my last legal daytime flying right next to my
home airport. But now w/ the strobe and GPS i can much more confidently
buzz home at the last minute without much doubt about how long it
will take to get there. Cooool! (yes, i do carry a flashlight :-) ).
Other little tidbit on this flight: Got to fly next to a pretty
big forest fire --interesting to see the wind and temperature flow
from the smoke it generated. The smoke stayed <500' AGL as it
flowed out of the burning canyon and into the valley. Below 200'
AGL the OAT was ~75 degrees, above it was more like 100! and this
was not due to the fire.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Hi all,
Still working on covering the SS wings this week. Unfortunately, I had to
waste the morning sending my BRS back. The made a boo boo and sent me the
7 inch diameter (longer) canister rather than the 8 inch diameter (shorter)
version. This would cause a few problems. Also, the actuation housing is
way short for where I want to mount the handle. They were great about it
and are swapping the canister and housing immediately. They should ship
out Wed or Thurs. Also, they were correct that there are a couple of mods
that have to be made to the brackets to fit the SS. These are very minor
though.
FYI, I just got my official registration certificate in the mail Saturday.
I had given up hope and figured it was lost in the mail since I sent my
paperwork 4 months ago. I guess it just takes that long.
One question for today. In mounting the primer bulb, it's tempting to
ty-rap it to a tube. This causes it to be squeezed slightly on one side
(don't ask me how I know). Dennis told me not to do this, but I can't seem
to figure out what it could hurt, and I didn't think to ask at the time.
Does anyone see this as a problem?
Thanks to everyone who answered my previous questions.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
edu>
>Hi everybody,
>I f-i-n-a-l-l-y took the time to remount the Kuntelman strobe back on my
>plane Sunday. Took me all day, but I sure did enjoy the extended flying
>time into the evening again. The hard part was that I relocated the
>mount point for the electronics box up out of the way of an otherwise good
>baggage spot. I scratched long and hard about the best way to tie this
>sucker onto the plane. I ended up making a mount board by fiberglassing
>each side of a piece of foam core board, and epoxying it to the airplane
>frame. This worked out well: no added holes in the airplane frame or
>crappy looking tube clamps and it's light and easy to make into any
>desired shape. I can unscrew the electronics box if needed, and also I
>made the board big enf that something else can be added later.
My FireFly uses the crappy looking tube clamps. :) By the way, where
did you end up mounting the strobe itself? I'd like to get one so I can
fly later (and earlier), but I'm trying to figure out just where to put it,
and how to hook it up. The previous owner put a strobe on the engine.
Heh heh heh! Doesn't take a genius to tell you THAT didn't last very
long. :) I've got the box, I'd just need to buy a strobe.
What's the consensus? Where is the best mounting point for visibility,
etc? On top? Under the fuselage? What about color? I've seen red, green,
and white strobes. Maybe more than one would be safest?
>
>Other little tidbit on this flight: Got to fly next to a pretty
>big forest fire --interesting to see the wind and temperature flow
>from the smoke it generated. The smoke stayed <500' AGL as it
>flowed out of the burning canyon and into the valley. Below 200'
>AGL the OAT was ~75 degrees, above it was more like 100! and this
>was not due to the fire.
Neat! I'll bet that forest fire was quite a sight! Sounds like you
were flying in a temperature inversion; there was probably little to no
wind at the time, eh? They are fun to fly in. :) The steam comes up
off the ponds and lakes and only goes up a few feet before spreading across
the ground. Its great to blast off and get hit with that nice warm air.
Usually, its in the evening, so you've got all that combined with a nice
sunset. FUN! :)
-Jon-
.--- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Observations |
>To All,
>
>
>
>I did do some flap testing at altitude and found that they felt pretty much
>like a Cessna (with a little lift up and nose over feeling). I lost about
>1K feet at idle very quickly and steeply at only about 55 mph. I will not
>try them during landings though for quite a while. I can see how useful
>they can be to get into a tight spot and shorten a flair. I would consider
>them air brakes rather than lift generators.
> A good assessment. Also when you land with a passenger, it feels
like you have a little less control authority in the flare. I have never
landed with a passenger and 40 degrees of flaps. 40 degrees of flaps kills
your airspeed FAST in the flare, be ready to land. Also with 40 degrees of
flaps, it feels like your approach angle is 60 degrees nose down, the last
20 feet is really unnerving at first, makes you tend to flare high, lest you
fram it in. (so you flare high, then realize you're 10' off the ground at 50
mph, airspeed decaying rapidly, and you still fram it in.)
>
>I am about to take off the doors for the summer (the rear enclosure is
>already off) and would like to know if that affects the flying
>characteristics any and whether I might need to get some goggles. Does the
>air curl around the edge of the windshield, blast your face and disturb your
>vision or can you fly without that kind of precaution.
> I think the climb rate is a little better, and the wind/turbulence
in the cockpit is very great.(Blew my clip on sunglasses off!) It is really
quite disconcerting for several minutes. Probably goggles are a good idea.
Planning to redo my windshield/windows this winter. Will furnish details if
it works.
>I have noticed while doing a lot of touch, touch, touch and go's that the
>tires and wheels are not balanced. When they spin up they can give the
>airframe a pretty good quiver. It is no big deal except that it really
>shakes my instrument panel. It is shock mounted which helps. Is there a
>practical way to balance those wheels?
I don't know, I just hit the brake as soon as I get established in
the climb. When they stop spinning, they stop shaking.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>Hi all,
>
>
>One question for today. In mounting the primer bulb, it's tempting to
>ty-rap it to a tube. This causes it to be squeezed slightly on one side
>(don't ask me how I know). Dennis told me not to do this, but I can't seem
>to figure out what it could hurt, and I didn't think to ask at the time.
>Does anyone see this as a problem?
>
>Thanks to everyone who answered my previous questions.
>
>
>Russell Duffy
>SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
>rad(at)pen.net
>http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
Here's a tip on ty-wrapping: to stand-off the fuel primer bulb from
the tube you want to tie it to: cut yourself two short lengths of fuel line,
1 1/2" long is plenty, and use them as stand-offs. Poke the ty-wrap through
the 1 1/2" length of fuel line, around the structure, back through the fuel
line again, and then around one end of your fuel bulb, and snug it up just
enough to make it good. Now do the same thing at the other end of your fuel
bulb, and your bulb is held out from the structure by about 1 3/4" or so.
The length of tubing you cut off determines the stand off distance. Once you
are satisfied, cut off the tag end of the tie wrap, and then take a
soldering iron and melt it down flush. This keeps you from cutting your skin
on the nipped end, and keeps some busybody from "snugging down " on the
ty-wrap and pinching off your fuel system .(John Hauck had his MKIII
wrecked that way!)
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: buy FireStar |
| From: | bharrison(at)juno.com (Bruce E Harrison) |
Dear Chuck:
Due to a recent job change and forced relocation, I am putting my FSII up
for sale. I have a '96 FSII with a Rotax 377, 2-blade IvoProp. All
construction was completed with the help and supervision of an A&P. Test
flight was on June 1st, l996 and the plane now has 139 uneventful and
most enjoyable hours on it. The 377 has had the best of care, regular
decarbonization, plug changes, and adjustments. The plane is finished in
all-white PolyTone and Imron. Instruments include tach, egt, airspeed,
altimeter, panel compass and (ha) yaw string. Presently it is being
operated under part 103; one seat, one five gallon tank--but I have all
parts to complete second seat, belts, and tank. Plunger style primer
installed. I have four sizes of main jets and a spare carburetor.
I am now located in Columbia, SC and the plane is in Waxhaw, NC, just
south of Charlotte. Let me know if you have any interest, as I have
photos and video footage for serious buyers. Asking price $9000. Sorry, I
don't have a trailer for it. My phone number is (803)798-0925. Hope you
find a nice FS out there.
Bruce Harrison
- - - , 20- - July 21, 1997
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-af