Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ag
July 21, 1997 - September 13, 1997
writes:
>
>EAA Chapter 279 is looking to buy a FireStar.
>We recently got our Mark III project into the air
>and we are in the process of flying off the 40 hrs.
>needed before it can be used for instructional purposes.
>The Mark III will be used to train and give check rides
>to people who want to fly the FireStar.
>We have members who have volunteered to drive almost
>anywhere to trailer a FireStar back East.
>Chap. 279 is located in Hanson, Massachusetts.
>
>Please reply to
>ccullen(at)worldnet.att.net
>or
>Chuck Cullen
>Scituate, Massachusetts
>(617) 545-7011
>FAX: (617) 545-2674
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Observations (wheel balance) |
On Mon, 21 Jul 1997, Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote:
> I have noticed while doing a lot of touch, touch, touch and go's that the
> tires and wheels are not balanced. When they spin up they can give the
> airframe a pretty good quiver. It is no big deal except that it really
> shakes my instrument panel. It is shock mounted which helps. Is there a
> practical way to balance those wheels?
i had wheel balance problems and asked the local Goodyear guy if he
had anything to help. He gave me some balancing weights made for
unconventional wheel rims. Basically they have peel off adhesive backing.
I added these and it helped some. You'll need to use something better
than the adhesive as some of the weights flung off after a short time.
I eventually returned the wheel (to Azusa) after verifying beyond all
reasonable doubt that it was an unround wheel (i.e. tire, tube, and
bearings NOT the problem). Azusa was nice about it; 2+ years
after purchase, and only a little grumble from them. Even now it is
still possible to get some wheel shake, but that's the main reason
we got brakes, right? :-)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
I thought I had this problem too in my Twinstar. On vigorous take off the
whole airframe would shake just like a very bad wheel balance. On a
suspicion I had a buddy come up to observe my tail wheel on take off. Seems
those bad shakes were not due to balance but by smacking my tailwheel into
the ground as I took off. Just something to watch out for.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
> Here's a tip on ty-wrapping: to stand-off the fuel primer bulb
from
> the tube you want to tie it to: cut yourself two short lengths of fuel
line,
> 1 1/2" long is plenty, and use them as stand-offs. Poke the ty-wrap
through
> the 1 1/2" length of fuel line, around the structure, back through the
fuel
> line again, and then around one end of your fuel bulb, and snug it up
just
> enough to make it good. Now do the same thing at the other end of your
fuel
> bulb, and your bulb is held out from the structure by about 1 3/4" or so.
Thanks Richard and Ben. Apparently I'm the only one on the planet that
doesn't know this trick. I was only too happy to take a break from my wing
covering today to try this, and it worked great! Only managed to get the
bottom of the left wing covered so far. I'll try to be more productive
tomorrow :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Bennett <sab(at)ultranet.com> |
Subject: | Muffler coatings (again) |
Hi all,
I know this has been discussed before, but.....
The muffler on my 503 seems to be losing the war against cracking. The
first crack showed up at about 220 hours, and now at 260 hours there have
been 4 or 5 crack-and-weld operations. It just split the main seam last
night, so I think it might be time for a full replacement.
I wonder if the metal work-hardens from the heat and vibration? It sure
seems to be a lot more prone to cracks now than when it was new.
Anyway, I have to replace the existing manifold to accomodate the new
3-piece system, so I'm looking at 500 bucks for a full replacement. (Anyone
ever price out what it would cost to build a new engine out of new parts?
I gotta believe it's 10 or 15K!)
I dug out the old discussion about coatings, and it seems like either
Jet-Hot or HPC would be a good way to go. For anyone who has used them:
doesn't the coating rule out welding if cracks show up in the future? Is
this a valid concern, or does the new 3-piece exhaust completely eliminate
cracking?
Thanks,
-Steve
(Twinstar Mk II)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Subject: | Re: Muffler coatings (again) |
>Hi all,
>
>I know this has been discussed before, but.....
>
>The muffler on my 503 seems to be losing the war against cracking. The
>first crack showed up at about 220 hours, and now at 260 hours there have
>been 4 or 5 crack-and-weld operations. It just split the main seam last
>night, so I think it might be time for a full replacement.
>
>I wonder if the metal work-hardens from the heat and vibration? It sure
>seems to be a lot more prone to cracks now than when it was new.
>
>Anyway, I have to replace the existing manifold to accomodate the new
>3-piece system, so I'm looking at 500 bucks for a full replacement. (Anyone
>ever price out what it would cost to build a new engine out of new parts?
> I gotta believe it's 10 or 15K!)
>
>I dug out the old discussion about coatings, and it seems like either
>Jet-Hot or HPC would be a good way to go. For anyone who has used them:
> doesn't the coating rule out welding if cracks show up in the future? Is
>this a valid concern, or does the new 3-piece exhaust completely eliminate
>cracking?
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Steve
> (Twinstar Mk II)
>
Somebody (don't remember who) suggested treating the muffler via the
"iron skillet method" . Our chapter president has tried it and it works
great! He has an old 503, and you just sand blast off the rust, and then
coat the exhaust with vegetable oil and get it hot.(run it) Coat it again.
Run it. Every time you pull it out of the hanger for 5 or 6 times, wipe it
down with a thin coat, then go fly. It looks good and appears to improve
with use. This winter I will sandblast off my Cermichrome and
Mazola/Crisco/Wesson the works.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tswartz(at)prolog.net (Terry Swartz) |
Subject: | Exp-Bus DC load center |
Hello everyone.
Has anyone used the Exp-BUS shown in Kitplanes July page 47 or at
www.controlvison.com/page20.htm. It looks quite interesting to me.
Progress report: Still waiting for my N-number since 6/18/97. All tail
surfaces and flaps and ailerons are completly finished and painted except
for the aluminum tubes on ailerons. Cage is covered and painted. I have
started to attach a few things to cage such as brakes, flap control handle,
elevator control handle etc. Main wings are all covered and taped and by
the end of the day will have the first coat of poly brush. Hope to get the
finish coat of paint on early next week. My engine (Rotax 912) is at Kolb,
they hope to have motor mount and accessory items ready by the middle of
next week for pickup.
Its beginning to feel like I'm heading down the home stretch and I can't
wait to get in the air. Fall is one of the best times to fly in this area
of the country (Lancaster Co. PA.).
Richard Pike, I'll be interested to hear the results of the changes you will
be making.
Russell Duffy, are you using the zip-lock sandbags as weights to cover your
wings? I switched to frezzer zip-lock because they are stronger plastic
then the sandwich zip-lock, and it worked great.
Later
Terry Swartz
M III
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: Exp-Bus DC load center |
> Its beginning to feel like I'm heading down the home stretch and I can't
> wait to get in the air.
Me too :-)
> Russell Duffy, are you using the zip-lock sandbags as weights to cover
your
> wings? I switched to frezzer zip-lock because they are stronger plastic
> then the sandwich zip-lock, and it worked great.
Hi Terry,
Actually, I've been planning to use weights of some type when it came time
to do the wing covering. As it turned out, I didn't need to. I'm using
the MEK method of covering. All I did was lay the fabric on the wing, then
tack a few spots around the perimeter to hold it in place. No weights, no
wrinkles, no problems (no fun either ).
As for the N-number, you should be getting that real soon. I didn't
request anything special, and mine showed up in about 4-5 weeks. This is
actually just the official request for registration paperwork, but you can
use a copy of it as the registration until your final certificate arrives
(4 months for me).
Rusty (One wing covered, one to go)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Hi yall (that's how we say it down here),
Time's running out on my gap seal decision. Has anyone actually used the
book binding tape method that Kolb suggests? I'd be curious to know how
well this worked, and is holding up. Last I asked, Dennis reported no
problems with this method on any that they've done. I'd like to try it
because it will make the wing easier handle by myself without that aileron
flopping around, but I'd hate to think about having to re-do it every years
or so. Thanks for any info you might have.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
Subject: | Bookbinding -vs- Tradiitional method for gap seal |
I used the bookbinding tape method, and came to the following
conclusions:
1) It looks OK, but not great.
2) If you're comfortable with using covering materials, and get the
painting sequence down (its a bit more complex than using the
bookbinding tape, which you can do right before riveting the flaps and
ailerons to the wings) you'll be happier with the traditional method.
3) If you hate glue and dope, you might want do to the bookbinding
thing.
4) The bookbinding tape probably will have problems if the plane gets
real hot, and melts the bookbinding adhesive (someone reported this.)
5) Its a bit tricky keeping the bookbinding tape from sticking to
itself in the wrong place as you install it.
I'm not terribly dissatisfied, but if I had it to do over (and
remembered to connect the ailerons and flaps to the wings with the seals
before painting), I'd use the traditional method over the bookbinding
method. But either one will work.
I don't have any good pictures that show exactly how it looks, but in
http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/dlvrkolb.jpg you can see how the light
shines between the wings and flaps/ailerons through the transparent
>bookbinding tape.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Book binding aileron seal tape (Mark iii) |
I have no flight time yet, but used the adhesive tape method. At the
suggestion of the guy with the extreme-flames-paint job on a Firestar at
last year's Osh Kosh, I purchased Manco Polytape at the local hardware store.
I spent about 8 dollars for a roll of 2" wide and a roll of 1" wide. The
1" was used to cover the unused exposed adhesive of the 2". I had enough to
do all the seals plus put a strip of 2" on the leading edge of the tail
surfaces and wings for bug removal wear resistance. The tricky part was
putting it together, adhesive face to face. I built a simple dispenser
out of the parts from a normal 2" box-closing tape dispenser ($6, also from
hardware store). Once the two tapes could be dispensed as a single product,
it was simply a matter of pulling out a length, cutting it off, and applying.
Here I must add that I did this upside down on the completed wing with hinges
rivetted on, ailerons and flaps in place and working. This is not perfect
because you end up with little unsealed gaps at the end of the (about) 3-foot
pcs of tape that go into the spaces between the hinges. I sealed the hinges
themselves with a simple 1" strip. ADVANATAGEs of doing this, I believe, are
that if/when the tapes need replacement, I can pull them off and put them on
new, only the ones that need it, without removing any rivets. Also, it was
tricky to handle the 3 foot peices, I cannot imagine trying to do in in a
continuous chunk the entire wing span. They look good to me, MUCH better
than the Poly Fabric ones after a few years of cracking. Mine can be replaced
as needed, simply and inexpensively without using any Polywhatever toxic
product process (can you tell I got a little tired of the painting toward the
end of the project?) I hope they stay on.
Has anyone had any trouble getting the FAA to come do your inspection? They
called me last week, ten days after I sent them the paperwork, to tell me they
were "really swamped and not sure when they could get here". They encouraged
me to use a DAR and I told them I'd wait. I got the impression they wanted to
look at faster bigger airplanes, and not deal with my "almost an ultralight".
Markiii: 100% complete, 1.7 hours on engine, trailer in process, awaiting FAA.
See you at O.K.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: Book binding aileron seal tape (Mark iii) |
The local office here told me that if I was willing to bring the plane
to them on a trailer they could inspect it right away as they would not
have to use a field guy to do it, this might be an approach you could
try. Thanks for the postings on the gap seal, I have been hemming and
hawing about how I will do mine.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM
>[SMTP:GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 1997 1:21 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Book binding aileron seal tape (Mark iii)
>
> I have no flight time yet, but used the adhesive tape method. At the
>suggestion of the guy with the extreme-flames-paint job on a Firestar at
>last year's Osh Kosh, I purchased Manco Polytape at the local hardware store.
>I spent about 8 dollars for a roll of 2" wide and a roll of 1" wide. The
>1" was used to cover the unused exposed adhesive of the 2". I had enough to
>do all the seals plus put a strip of 2" on the leading edge of the tail
>surfaces and wings for bug removal wear resistance. The tricky part was
>putting it together, adhesive face to face. I built a simple dispenser
>out of the parts from a normal 2" box-closing tape dispenser ($6, also from
>hardware store). Once the two tapes could be dispensed as a single product,
>it was simply a matter of pulling out a length, cutting it off, and applying.
>Here I must add that I did this upside down on the completed wing with hinges
>rivetted on, ailerons and flaps in place and working. This is not perfect
>because you end up with little unsealed gaps at the end of the (about) 3-foot
>pcs of tape that go into the spaces between the hinges. I sealed the hinges
>themselves with a simple 1" strip. ADVANATAGEs of doing this, I believe, are
>that if/when the tapes need replacement, I can pull them off and put them on
>new, only the ones that need it, without removing any rivets. Also, it was
>tricky to handle the 3 foot peices, I cannot imagine trying to do in in a
>continuous chunk the entire wing span. They look good to me, MUCH better
>than the Poly Fabric ones after a few years of cracking. Mine can be
>replaced
>as needed, simply and inexpensively without using any Polywhatever toxic
>product process (can you tell I got a little tired of the painting toward the
>end of the project?) I hope they stay on.
> Has anyone had any trouble getting the FAA to come do your inspection?
>They
>called me last week, ten days after I sent them the paperwork, to tell me
>they
>were "really swamped and not sure when they could get here". They encouraged
>me to use a DAR and I told them I'd wait. I got the impression they wanted
>to
>look at faster bigger airplanes, and not deal with my "almost an ultralight".
>Markiii: 100% complete, 1.7 hours on engine, trailer in process, awaiting
>FAA.
>See you at O.K.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Muffler coatings (again) |
Richard Pike wrote:
> Somebody (don't remember who) suggested treating the muffler via the
> "iron skillet method" . Our chapter president has tried it and it works
> great! He has an old 503, and you just sand blast off the rust, and then
> coat the exhaust with vegetable oil and get it hot.(run it) Coat it again.
> Run it. Every time you pull it out of the hanger for 5 or 6 times, wipe it
> down with a thin coat, then go fly. It looks good and appears to improve
> with use. This winter I will sandblast off my Cermichrome and
> Mazola/Crisco/Wesson the works.
>
> Richard Pike
> Technical Counselor EAA 442
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
Yes, but what are you going to do about the craving for popcorn every
time you fly .
Marc Robertson
marc@blackberry-ridge.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | evoice(at)acton.com (Doug Prange) |
>Hi yall (that's how we say it down here),
>
>Time's running out on my gap seal decision. Has anyone actually used the
>book binding tape method that Kolb suggests?
I USED WHITE VINYL TAPE (worked great since my Mark III is all white) THAT I
PURCHASED FROM GRAINGER. THEN OVER THE EDGES OF THE TAPE RUNNING THE LENGTH
OF THE WING I COVERED WITH 3M WHITE AUTO STRIPING TAPE. THE 3M TAPE MAY NOT
HAVE BEEN NECESSARY. EVERYTHING SEEMS TO BE HOLDING UP VERY WELL, HOWEVER, I
HAVE ONLY 25 TOTAL HOURS.
Doug Prange
Lincoln, Nebraska
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
Mufflers work like buidings during an earthquake. A ridgid building is the
first to crack.A flexible building may survive. Same with a muffler. If the
muffler cant move and the engine is bouncing around and shaking the metal
will weaken and crack. If you build flex into the system then all the
vibrations are dissipated and do not harm the metal. A 2 piece can be made
to work if you have a real soft mount as opposed to rigid near the open end
of the exhaust.
WOODY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
I think I have missed something here. What is this sand bag method of wing
covering,does it replace ironing?
WOODY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "The Kmets" <lksj(at)vivanet.com> |
Hi Guys,, I`m posting this for a friend.. I met a fellow Kolb driver at
a fly-in last week who doesn`t have a computer yet, . He has a nice MK- 3
that he has flown off of water, & now primarily uses his wheels. Anyhow
, he has a Lotus-? mono- hull float system He`d like to sell . Sorry but
I don`t know the price, or much else about the setup, but He`s a heck of a
nice guy & would like to see them used. If interested ,, call Scott
Trask @ 906-779-9157. He`s located @ 4592 Bass Lake Road,,,
Iron Moutain, Michigan 49801
Gotta fly,,
Jim Kmet
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tswartz(at)prolog.net (Terry Swartz) |
I think I have missed something here. What is this sand bag method of wing
covering,does it replace ironing?
WOODY
Sorry, it doesn't replace the iron. Just a easy weight source when using
the Alternative method of stretching the fabric. I used about 25-30 qt.
size zip-lock freezer bags filled with sand attached with s hooks and was
able to stretch the fabric over the wing and attach with no wrinkles or
frayed edges. Ended up with a real nice job.
Terry Swartz
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
> I think I have missed something here. What is this sand bag method of
wing
> covering,does it replace ironing?
> WOODY
This just means that you can use these sand bags as weights to hold some
tension on the large pieces of fabric used on the wings. The idea isn't to
stretch the fabric but to hold the wrinkles out of it while you glue the
edges down. It doesn't replace ironing in any way, and you wouldn't want
it to, because ironing out the wrinkles it the fun part :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Thanks to everyone that commented on my gap seal dilemma. I think I'll try
using the bookbinding method. This is largely because I'm so unbelievably
sick of all this covering and all the Poly-Stink products. Fabric tape and
I have a hate/hate relationship going. I think I'm also getting just a
wee bit impatient to fly.
I like the idea about putting the tape between the hinges. It seems that
should do the trick just fine and be easier to manage. Oddly enough, I
tried to find the bookbinding tape note in my plans tonight, and couldn't.
Either I'm overlooking it (lots of MEK fumes out there), or Dennis took it
out in the updated set of plans I received earlier this year.
Has anyone flown without the gap seals? I'm sure this falls into the
potentially scary category, but I wonder just how much they do. I'm sure
their primary purpose is drag reduction, but how significant is it at 80
mph? Would it affect the aileron controls in an unsafe way?
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: Bookbinding -vs- Tradiitional method for gap seal |
Thanks for the info. John Hanson mentioned something about trying to meet
up when I come up there for my checkout with Dan. It should be around the
end of August (I hope). Hopefully, you can join us.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com (Christina Reynen) |
Subject: | Re: Observations |
You wrote:
>
>
>>I am about to take off the doors for the summer (the rear enclosure
is
>>already off) and would like to know if that affects the flying
>>characteristics any and whether I might need to get some goggles.
Does the
>>air curl around the edge of the windshield, blast your face and
disturb your
>>vision or can you fly without that kind of precaution.
>> I think the climb rate is a little better, and the
wind/turbulence
>in the cockpit is very great.(Blew my clip on sunglasses off!) It is
really
>quite disconcerting for several minutes. Probably goggles are a good
idea.
>Planning to redo my windshield/windows this winter. Will furnish
details if
>it works.
Hi all;
I removed the standard kolb doors from my MarkIII and found a terrific
windblast coming through the side openings that made flying almost
impossible without a full face shield.
I experimented with partial side doors and found that if I covered the
front half of the opening up to the lockplate, the wind would no longer
blow in my face and I also found that the plane handling improved
slightly at slow approach speeds.
I cut this shape from the same polycarbon as supplied by Kolb for the
side windows and rivetted a bend and flared 5/16"rib in the front and
backside(vertical)to obtain a bow in the polycarbon material and to
stiffen the door.
Next I rivetted a leftover hinge part along the top edge and aligned it
up with the existing hinge half of the windshield with 1/8"clearance at
the nose cone.
This now covers the front half of the side openings and does not have
locks although one could be installed.
I installed these 4 years (350hrs) ago and they have worked out well
and stay closed during flying due to the airpressure and I fly now
without the full doors all the time.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Crash at our airport this last weekend - not a Kolb |
While working on our FireFly at the airport near Dallas Texas this
past weekend the evening of 19-July, there was an unfortunate crash of
a Rans S-9 resulting in a fatality of the pilot. We had been working
so hard and had the fans running (99-degrees plus) we didn't even know
it happen or emergency equipment had responded. We were curious why a
larger helicopter was flying around low over the runway area down the
field. Since it wasn't a big black helicopter we decided it was OK.
It belonged to one of the local TV stations.
Allegedly the guy was not a licensed pilot and had taught himself to
fly in an ultralight. The plane had been seen flying for about a year.
According to witnesses, he had been flying around and had just made a
pass down the runway (rather hot and fast, we did see that part) with
a pull-up at the end (missed that part, out of sight from our
location). The engine began cutting out. He turned back to the runway
going around the water tower at the south end. He cut through the
aerobatic box and the engine quit during a 180 degree clover leaf back
to the field. When he got to the treeline about 10 feet below him
paralleling the runway, the plane stalled dropping the left wing. He
went straight down into the trees that line the east side of the
runway. The plane burst into flames on impact and burned, killing the
pilot.
While this wasn't a Kolb it again sends a message, let's be careful
out there. Fly the airplane, don't stretch your glide, and fight the
urge to turn back to the runway if you are at a low altitude. He had
several clear areas he could have put it down in ahead of him. Better
to bend the airplane and live to fly again than to push you luck and
lose the game.
By the way this is the same airport Cliff flys his MK-3 out of.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | my own designs reply |
I have got a bunch of self addressed envelopes and will fill them when I get
back from Oshkosh with my trailer and other photos. I have taken the photos
and am making the writeups to go with them. Hope all can wait until I get
back, will be gone for the entire next week.
tim loehrke
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
Been test flying the my FSII in somewhat bumpy weather - the aircraft is
SUPER RESPONSIVE, almost more than I like. Has anyone increased the
dihederal (sp) and does this make the plane less responsive? Or shouldn't
I consider it?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Fri, 25 Jul 1997, Dan Bush wrote:
> Been test flying the my FSII in somewhat bumpy weather - the aircraft is
> SUPER RESPONSIVE, almost more than I like. Has anyone increased the
> dihederal (sp) and does this make the plane less responsive? Or shouldn't
> I consider it?
I'd be a little curious if another experienced Firestar pilot were
to fly your plane for comparison. That way you could be sure if the
plane is behaving normally. (i'm wondering if there could be something
unstable about your plane based on CG or incidence angle of the wings
and/or horz stab.)
I would think more dihedral would make little difference. Do you find it
mostly too sensitive in pitch, roll, yaw, or all? Obvously it won't act
as sensitively at lower speeds ...maybe you could feel out that regime
more. I'm trying to think of how you could lengthen the control horns
on the stick or the control surfaces as this would be a way to lessen
sensitivity ...can't think of a way to do that tho (and it seems like
a bad idea). Another cheater way is simply to lengthen the stick;
i.e. if your hand movements are further away from the stick fulcrum, a
given movement has less effect (and more leverage). Then too, you might
just read this nonsense and decide to get used to it :-) I think it is
something that'll easily grow on you.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gerald Jones <geraldj(at)csufresno.edu> |
I've been thru the gap seal experience before on a 2-place Challenger I
built. I used no gap seals in the beginning because of the kind of
hassles discussed herein and flew with no discernable problems. Later,
a fellow flyer discussed his experience on the elevator of his K-Fox
using clear ski-saver tape. I tried it and it worked well, but I was
never aware that it made a lot of difference in the way my Clipped Wing
flew.
FWIW
Jerry
Thanks to everyone that commented on my gap seal dilemma. I think I'll
try
using the bookbinding method. This is largely because I'm so
unbelievably
sick of all this covering and all the Poly-Stink products. Fabric tape
and
I have a hate/hate relationship going. I think I'm also getting just a
wee bit impatient to fly.
I like the idea about putting the tape between the hinges. It seems that
should do the trick just fine and be easier to manage. Oddly enough, I
tried to find the bookbinding tape note in my plans tonight, and
couldn't.
Either I'm overlooking it (lots of MEK fumes out there), or Dennis took
it
out in the updated set of plans I received earlier this year.
Has anyone flown without the gap seals? I'm sure this falls into the
potentially scary category, but I wonder just how much they do. I'm
sure
their primary purpose is drag reduction, but how significant is it at 80
mph? Would it affect the aileron controls in an unsafe way?
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chuck Cullen <chuck(at)kronos.com> |
The Mark III that my EAA chapter built has gap seals.
The construction was supervised by a former instructor
at East Coast Aero Tech, Kenny Pfister.
I read somewhere (I save all my airplane magazines but
I don't have the reference right this second) that NOT
having gap seals could reduce the effectivness
of a control surface by as much as 30 percent.
I don't know what the percentage is for the Kolb designs
but there must be some decrease.
I was watching another member of our chapter land the Kolb
last Saturday in a substantial cross-wind.
As he got near touchdown on the grass next to the runway,
it was evident that he needed all the effectivness from the
ailerons and elevators that he could get.
He came in a little low and slow though.
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Time's running out on my gap seal decision. Has anyone actually used the
book binding tape method that Kolb suggests? >>
I don't know if it is the "Book binding tape method", but the gap seal taken
from the Kolb plans has held up well on my '92 Firestar and has gone through
its second painting (which is an experimental water base paint, by Coronado,
BTW). I have 3 colors on it and the whole bill was less than $100. No odor
either. and paint is very flexible and holds on more tightly than the
original Polytone.
G
eoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
> I don't have the reference right this second) that NOT
> having gap seals could reduce the effectivness
> of a control surface by as much as 30 percent.
> I don't know what the percentage is for the Kolb designs
> but there must be some decrease.
Hi,
>From what I'm hearing, drag reduction isn't the primary function of the
aileron gap seals in our case. I heard from one person who has flown a
Kolb without the seals, and noticed some difference in aileron control, but
nothing major. The area between the hinges on the SS is fairly small due
to the short wings, so there isn't that much area to seal anyway. I plan
to ask Dennis about leaving them off, but haven't been able to get in touch
with him. He's pretty much in "show" mode at this point I can imagine. If
he says it's OK, I'll probably try it, otherwise, I'll use the best tape I
can find to seal between the hinges. I'll try to remember to let the group
know what he says about it, but it will probably be after Oshkosh before I
can reach him.
Thanks,
Rusty
PS- Wings are both covered, and will hopefully be painted tomorrow!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Away for Oshkosh |
To Kolb Builders,
>From now through Aug 10 I'll be away from my desk and phone and computer
(email) and fax, etc. - but will not be away from our builders. I'll be at
Oshkosh! So if you have any questions during this period of time, please
feel free to stop by our both at the far end of the show and see me. I'll
should be back on Aug 11. Mike and Esther should be available most of the
time at the normal numbers.
Looking forward to seeing you at the show.
Dennis Souder
Pres Kolb Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Need recommendation on a Transceiver |
Last week I took off from the El Paso airport towards Roswell in my Cessna
when El Paso departure informed me he was not clearly receiving my radio. I
decided to do a 180, land and have the radio checked. It only turned out to
be a $2.00 part but $110.00 in labor.
I'm looking to buy a hand held transceiver as backup in my 172. I also want
to use it as the main radio when ever I finish the FireStar. I want
something with a big readout, a built in intercom would be nice. What are
Kolb pilots using? The Icom A22 has a nice ad so does Sporty's JD-200. Is
anyone using any of them?
Regards
Will Uribe
WillU(at)aol.com
Building a FireStar II:
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: Need recommendation on a Transceiver |
> I'm looking to buy a hand held transceiver as backup in my 172. I also
want
> to use it as the main radio when ever I finish the FireStar. I want
> something with a big readout, a built in intercom would be nice. What are
> Kolb pilots using? The Icom A22 has a nice ad so does Sporty's JD-200.
Is
> anyone using any of them?
Hi Will,
I have an older model Sporty's radio that I bought as a backup right after
the night I couldn't turn on the lights at the airport. Of course I had
been in the air for an hour, and it was already dark..... I've actually
used it a couple times since when rental aircraft radios puked. I plan to
use it for the SlingShot, but it has one big drawback that the new model
seems to share- you can't use a remote push to talk button. Ask Sportys
about this, but it sure isn't listed as a feature on an option, and mine
sure won't do it. That's my only gripe with it though. Otherwise, it's
worked great. One other bit of general advice- don't be so quick to go for
ni-cad batteries. As a backup, you don't want them because they lose about
1.5% of their power every day when sitting idle. When you really need it,
it'll be dead. As a full time use radio, you want an external power cord.
Just my 2 cents.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Mounting Strobe on FireFly |
OK guys, lets take a survey.
Where do you mount a single strobe on the FireFly.
I don't like putting dual units on the wings, my partner will knock
them off. (Hope he doesn't read this or I am in big trouble!)
We agreed we would like to use the single stream line head Kuntelman
strobe. Looking the Kolb over, the rudder sticks up above everything.
We were looking at placing it at the top of the leading edge of the
vertical stab. This ends up slightly below the top of the rudder and
could provide a blind spot to someone directly behind you. Any
comments or suggestions are welcome.
He worked my butt off this last weekend since it was my last weekend
in town for another cycle. Cliff showed up to give us some moral
support then his car wouldn't stay running when he came to leave. We
managed to get the tail feathers rigged, gear drilled, and the brake
drums mounted on the wheels. We got one wheel that has a little
wobble. Its bothering me but we haven't decided what to do.
The gear ended up much easier than we both had anticipated hearing war
stories. We used a 6 foot long piece of angle, the stuff with all the
holes punched in it for building racks or what ever. We did it with
cage up side down with the gear sticking in the air. Put the gear
legs in, took a couple measurement to verify the were the same length
and level, drilled the holes in the legs. Put the axle holders on the
legs, lined them up using the steel angle, punched holes with the
drill. I got the honors, my partner don't like drilling steel. Next
will be put the axles in to punch them. Found we had to hold off on
that as the drawing doesn't clearly tell you how the brake unit must
be orientated. My partner is going to Oshkosh, while there he going
to review it with Kolb. We found the holes of the axle holders and
the brake base plates do not come close to lining up with out some
moving the holes (read that as file, route, file more). Progress will
stop for the next couple of weeks until my partner gets back. He'll
be ready to start the covering then. While at Oshkosh he plans to
attend the covering and welding work shops.
Its starting to get exciting. Things are coming together. Oh, many
more comments about the frying pan curing method on the exhaust
system. Told my partner about it, he kind of liked the ideal. I
think it was fat is cheaper than the coating process plus he figures
we will not have time to have the exhaust system coated once we get
the engine from Kolb. I have seasoned a couple of frying pans before
and find the idea intriguing. Time will tell.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | And they said it couldn't be done |
Hi all,
I'm one tired puppy, but the wings are painted!!!!!! 3 coats of Poly-Tone.
Not great, but not bad. I like it.
BTW, I talked to "D" (really what he calls himself) Leblanc last night.
He's the UL instructor in Baton Rouge, LA with the TwinStar. I think I've
changed my flight training plane for transition to the SlingShot. I'm
going to get a tailwheel endorsement locally in a Super Cub, then go to
Baton Rouge to fly with "D" for a few hours. He figures that's all I'll
need. This will work out better in many respects. I'll have to stop in at
Kolb next time I'm stuck at my in-laws in PA.
Also, since I had asked about N-Number lettering, I figured that I'd
mention that I ended up ordering them from Aircraft Spruce. It costs
$10.75 for a left and right strip. The letters are pre-positioned so you
apply the whole thing at once. Should work out fine.
Thanks goodness my vacation's over so I can get some rest :-)
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K (soon, but not soon enough)
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brandon "Herb" Kearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Subject: | Re: Mounting Strobe on FireFly |
Hello Fellow Kolbers,
> Where do you mount a single strobe on the FireFly.
Well, I don't know about a Firefly, but on our Mark III we mount our
strobe on the bottom of the nose cone. It works well there.
I hope to get new pictures of our Kolb on the Web soon. I have the
pictures on my computer now, I just need to get the urge to put them
on my page. I will let you all know when I do.
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey@ben.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| bcoe.butte.k12.
(_____________//----------------\^ ca.us
/ o
( )
Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | What's status of change to FireFly Ailerons |
What happened regarding the change to the FireFly ailerons. I recall
someone out there claimed they modified the width? and never to be
heard from again. Did it work out and what was changed. The silence
is getting the best of me.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Is nose skid needed on FireFly |
Hi Folks,
Before we get to the point we can't do this, is a nose skid needed on
the FireFly. Some of the older Kolbs you could put on the nose pretty
easy if you were a bigger person.
How the FireFly balancing out, does it want go nose down easily?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ALLENB007(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Mounting Strobe on FireFly |
Regarding mounting strobes on the Fly, my builder mounted mine on the
wingtips and my Fly is stored in tight quarters and we haven't had a problem
with hitting anything. I feel that two strobes(kunkleman dual magnum
strobes) in this area gives a much better opportunity to "be seen"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ALLENB007(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Is nose skid needed on FireFly |
No noseskid is needed on the Fly. I'm 6'3" and weigh 200lbs and have never
had a balance problem. No comments John!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
The nose skid is unimportant untill the first time you have a Boo Boo and
wish you would have installed it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Tue, 29 Jul 1997, wood wrote:
> The nose skid is unimportant untill the first time you have a Boo Boo and
> wish you would have installed it
>
I'm not sure what would cause such a boo boo. If a Fstar handles somewhat
like a FFly, the skid isn't needed. I've nosed over twice, but it
happened both times while at 0-2 mph in soft sand where i applied power
too quickly. Now i know better. I believe the tendency to nose over at
higher speed is unlikely, as then there is more controlling air flow over
the tail surface -- combined with the fact that the mains are already
rolling and the wing may be lightening the load on the mains a bit too.
I got not even a scratch on the nose cone from either nose-over, and on
the second i didn't even bother getting out of the plane ...just stuck
my foot out and pushed off.
The other scenario possibly inviting a nose skid is getting decent brakes
and applying them with machismo. So, don't invest in good brakes! :-)
or more seriously, just avoid dramatic skidding stops.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
Does any one still have the contact number for the mono float for sale
last week?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | Building hours slowly... |
To All,
I have kept exact records of how much oil and fuel I am using and have
discovered that the mix provided by the engine injection alone is not enough
to fall within the published 1:50 to 1:70 range. Others have commented that
they have experienced similar occurances. Today, I began adding 2 oz. of
Pennzoil aircooled formula per 5 gallon can of fuel to my Rotax 582 with oil
injection. The best I can figure this additional oil will bring the mix to
about 1:65 on the average. I flew today for 1.4 hours and tried to notice
any differences. From a very unscientific view, it seemed that my radiator
water temps were a little cooler, possibly 10 degrees. The EGTs used to be
pretty even, but at full power there was a divergence of about 25 degrees.
I have no idea which cylinder is which. At cruise they are equal as before.
Taxiing back to the hanger the engine seemed to run a little rougher at low
rpm than before (that could have been my imagination... as could some of the
other observations).
I noticed a crack starting at the rear of my wing gap seal (in the Lexan)
evidently caused by vibration of the Lexan sheet against a weld bump on the
rear square tube. I will have to make a T shaped brace and add it over or
under the present tab to spread out the loads on the tab into an area of
un-cracked Lexan. I will drill stop the crack from running and maybe put a
line of silicone caulk down it as well to keep it from vibrating.
I am thinking of making some new half doors for my MKIII. I have seen some
planes with cut Lexan sheets that overlap a little so that the rear portion
can be unscrewed and removed. I am considering making a shortened version
of the regular door instead that just comes back past the latch. I hate to
ruin the perfect view out the full sized doors. I have a finger loop rip
out piano hinge pin and can easily change out the doors.
Dennis, if you are listening, offer us guys that can't weld a short door kit
that includes frames (at the very minimum) and/or Lexan, hinge material and
hardware.
I have heard that another MKIII has made it's first flight in this area.
That makes about 4 Kolb designs flying around the Dallas, Tx. area that I
know of. Pretty soon we will have a Firefly too.
I am anxious to hear all the "poop and scoop" about Oshkosh. Tell us what
was new or interesting about the Kolbs that made it to the party or what the
"factory" cooked up this year... all you guys that got to go.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (11.4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Nobody has yet mentioned the need for a nose skid on the MKIII. This
calls for a tale...
After flying the hours off my MKIII, it was time to take the wife
for a ride. Since the strip here is not all that long, she drove over to the
"real"
airport and I picked her up, off we went. Flew a bit, did some takeoffs and
landings, learned about how much trim it needed, flew home. Landed ok.
Now the test. Off a 750' strip at full gross weight. Taxi to the top
of the hill. Lock the brakes. Ease the power up with full aft stick until
the tail gets light, release the brakes and ease in full throttle. At least
that was the plan. What actually happens is you ease the power up with full
aft stick until the tail gets light, and then before you can get it rolling,
it slowly and gracefully assumes the "rooting hog position" . What is worse,
once it gets up there, it stays, even at idle. You have to turn the engine
off to get it to drop back down. Then you laugh at each other, look around
to see if any of the neighbors saw you, check the pitot for grass/dirt, and
go fly. People with normal airplanes have no idea how much they're missing
out on.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | 5/16th half-door?? |
Dan,
>On your half doors - 5/16 6061 T-6 alum. tubing makes a nice door. to bend
>it I put it over a tire and slowly rolled it (also had a wooden frame to
>match it up on - on the table.)
How did you make your corners? Did you bend the frame from a single piece
of material? I can see how that would work. I can bend a pretty tight
radius (1.5" +-) corners with the homemade bending wheel I used in the
original construction. Let me know. I can get all of those materials locally.
Thanks!
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (11.4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
Subject: | Fw: Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: intriq.com: host |
not found)
----------
> From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON(at)smtp.gte.net>
> To: dbush(at)gte.net
> Subject: Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: intriq.com: host not
found)
> Date: Saturday, August 02, 1997 3:02 PM
>
> from 1Cust37.max24.los-angeles.ca.ms.uu.net [153.34.82.37]
>
> ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
>
>
> ----- Transcript of session follows -----
> 550 ... Host unknown (Name server: intriq.com: host not
found)
>
Reporting-MTA: dns; smtp.gte.net
Arrival-Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 17:02:13 -0500 (CDT)
Final-Recipient: RFC822; kolb(at)intriq.com
Action: failed
Remote-MTA: DNS; intriq.com
Last-Attempt-Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 17:02:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Dan Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Impressions
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 1997 14:56:59 -0700
There I was, one of the last to land with the whole club out to watch. The
air was calm and crisp. The final the approach was flawless, the landing a
perfect three point. The braking was slightly shaky (side to side) but
barely noticeable. Figuring on making a final impression in front of the
club house with a pivot turn and parking. Applied hard left brake, alittle
power, moved the stick slightly forward to assist in lighting the tail -
AND promptly put the nose into the ground. There I was, the flawless
pilot, stuck nose first with my tail pointing to the sky - and do you think
the plane would settle back down - not on your life. Had to put one foot
out and push, with the crowd enjoying this immensely to calls "I thought
Kolbs were taildraggers, not trikes - where's your front wheel?"
So you can see, even with mechanical brakes -You can nose over! That was
in a FSII with one person. Enjoy and best of luck to those who would like
to make impressions.
Dan B. (Oh - no major damage, just alittle paint - - and pride).
________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for Mark III, 4 stroke engine. preferralby Subaru. A friend is
interested in buying one.
Mike Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
Can you provide source of info on Subaru powerplants on Kolb Mark III. Do you
know of any aircraft for sale with this config? Or- has the design work been
done to put this engine into the Kolb, so that plans can be obtained?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Henry C. Wortman" <hwortman(at)datasys.net> |
Subject: | Firefly vs Firestar |
There are three of us who are interested in purchasing an ultralight.
Only one of us has had any piloting experience and that was about 10
hours several years ago. We have decided that the Kolb is probably the
best way to go and that the Firefly is an excellent choice as it
complies with 103. A week or so ago I read a message on here that
someone had a Firestar that was 103 compliant as it had only one seat.
The other seat was available but had not been installed. Is this correct
and if so would that be a choice for us to consider?
We visited a couple of Kolb (builders, fans, pilots) a few weeks ago in
Tallahassee and were very impressed with their friendliness and
willingness to help. I enjoy the communications between you guys on
this listserve. Thanks: Henry Wortman : Quitman, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jhann Gestur Jhannsson <johanng(at)ok.is> |
Subject: | Muffler attachment Rotax 532 |
Hi Kolb Flyers,
I would like to hear from you fellow builders, who have used
the Rotax 532 or 582 engine on their Firestar or Mark III aircraft.
I ordered the standard muffler clamps from CPS, but the muffler
must be attached on top of the exhaust manifold instead of underneath,
bacause of the wing.
In the drawings for the Firestar on page 16, there is a muffler mount for
the Rotax 503 engine, made from aluminium angle, 1 1/4" and 1 1/2".
Does this method work for the Rotax 532/582 engine?
Do you use any other method for this muffler attachment?
Jhann G.
Iceland.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re: Reply to Cliff - general gab |
Hi Cliff,
Glad to hear you back at the airport. Wish I was there. I'm on
another rotation cycle in Malaysia. It's hard to work on it from over
here. (Before I left my VP hinted that maybe they should ship a kit
over here to keep over here more.) Gary (my partner on the Kolb
FireFly) went to Oshkosh. Things have come to a halt while were both
gone. I hope there's some money left in the check book when he comes
back. He was going with the intent of spending money. I might want
to buy something for the airplane. He's probably having a hard time
staying away from the UL's when there flying. If you haven't had a
ride or flown at Oshkosh out of the UL field, talk about a high, wow.
It's exciting.
There we were at whatever the pattern altitude was, flying around the
UL pattern. Flying was neat, making several circuits. Faster planes
passing the slower ones on the right outside. The view of the
convention site couldn't been any better. Soon it was time to come
down. We were high on final, I mean high. I new we were going to
over shoot the field and run into the fence at the end of the runway.
About that time Mark popped the flaps on the Earthstar Odyssey. We
started coming down like an express elevator. Oh gosh, we were coming
down so steep and at such a decent rate I new we were going to be a
yard dart landing short of the runway. Mark was never going to make
the runway yet stop the decent. Well Marks a good pilot and I lived
to tell about it. He put it in on the numbers nice and smooth, no
problem. As my partner tells me when I am the pilot and he's the
passenger, cheated death again.
Several thrills, flying wing tip - wing tip (almost) with other planes
two or three abreast, passing each other. You could almost reach out
and touch them it seemed any how. And the elevator ride was
exhilarating. Wild, beats E ticket at Disney World. And the view,
man it was great. Sold me, I bought a Kolb FireFly, and that's
another story. Let's just say I also have a Earthstar ThunderGull kit
sitting in my garage. It goes together after the Kolb.
Keep up the spirit and keep building and flying out there,
Jerry
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Building hours slowly...
Date: 8/1/97 8:53 PM
To All,
I have kept exact records of how much oil and fuel I am using and have
discovered that the mix provided by the engine injection alone is not enough
to fall within the published 1:50 to 1:70 range. Others have commented that
they have experienced similar occurances. Today, I began adding 2 oz. of
Pennzoil aircooled formula per 5 gallon can of fuel to my Rotax 582 with oil
injection. The best I can figure this additional oil will bring the mix to
about 1:65 on the average. I flew today for 1.4 hours and tried to notice
any differences. From a very unscientific view, it seemed that my radiator
water temps were a little cooler, possibly 10 degrees. The EGTs used to be
pretty even, but at full power there was a divergence of about 25 degrees.
I have no idea which cylinder is which. At cruise they are equal as before.
Taxiing back to the hanger the engine seemed to run a little rougher at low
rpm than before (that could have been my imagination... as could some of the
other observations).
I noticed a crack starting at the rear of my wing gap seal (in the Lexan)
evidently caused by vibration of the Lexan sheet against a weld bump on the
rear square tube. I will have to make a T shaped brace and add it over or
under the present tab to spread out the loads on the tab into an area of
un-cracked Lexan. I will drill stop the crack from running and maybe put a
line of silicone caulk down it as well to keep it from vibrating.
I am thinking of making some new half doors for my MKIII. I have seen some
planes with cut Lexan sheets that overlap a little so that the rear portion
can be unscrewed and removed. I am considering making a shortened version
of the regular door instead that just comes back past the latch. I hate to
ruin the perfect view out the full sized doors. I have a finger loop rip
out piano hinge pin and can easily change out the doors.
Dennis, if you are listening, offer us guys that can't weld a short door kit
that includes frames (at the very minimum) and/or Lexan, hinge material and
hardware.
I have heard that another MKIII has made it's first flight in this area.
That makes about 4 Kolb designs flying around the Dallas, Tx. area that I
know of. Pretty soon we will have a Firefly too.
I am anxious to hear all the "poop and scoop" about Oshkosh. Tell us what
was new or interesting about the Kolbs that made it to the party or what the
"factory" cooked up this year... all you guys that got to go.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (11.4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | edk(at)primenet.com (EDWARD D. KNESL) |
Subject: | Control stick - Mark III |
All you Mark III drivers!
How do you feel about the control stick "sitting" in the middle of
the cockpit? There was some discussion about heavy aileron feel.
Well it should be, all control pressure on right arm all the time,
at right turn you must pull the stick away from your body and it
must be harder than the other way with left turns.
I am going to install my stick where it should be, between pilot's
knees, unless you guys, persuade me that there is absolutely no
problem with original installation.
By the way this would be about 51st major change on this airplane
(MarkIII). If anybody is interested in the list of my changes
I will post it.
Edward Knesl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Wood <woodjt(at)nosc.mil> |
Hi kolb flyers;
I just received my kit for a FS II. I decided to build the ribs first. I
laid out all the dimensions on my building board and then placed my
pre-welded rib (left) over the plans to find out that it didn't fit. In fact
it was short by 3/16 of an inch. I decided to check the right rib and it
appears to be the correct length. I spent the next several hours trying to
determine if I had made a mistake on my layout or if the pre-weld rib were
really different and by how much.
Here is what I have determined.
The left rib is shorter by 3/16" and that the rear spar tube is welded
to the rib at an angle in two different directions from center.
If a small 12" piece of tubing is installed between the two ribs, it
will slide over both spar tubes with no problem.
I can adjust my form to compensate for the 3/16" difference and the
result would be that one tube bends toward the leading edge and the other
would bend away. the spar on the short rib would also bend down a little
since the spar tab points down.
My question is, has anyone else observed this welding configuration on
their FS II and if so, what was your solution.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rgbsr <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
Use your web browser to search on the words AIRSOOB. There is an internet
newsgroup devoted just to Subaru engines.
Ron B.
On Sun, 3 Aug 1997 LNARG(at)aol.com wrote:
> Date: Sun, 3 Aug 1997 10:02:31 -0400 (EDT)
> From: LNARG(at)aol.com
> To: Kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Kolb info
>
> Can you provide source of info on Subaru powerplants on Kolb Mark III. Do you
> know of any aircraft for sale with this config? Or- has the design work been
> done to put this engine into the Kolb, so that plans can be obtained?
>
< rgbsr(at)aimnet.com > Living in San Jose, California
< rblaylock(at)mail.arc.nasa.gov > Flying from Lodi, California
Trained by Ultralights of Sacramento, California
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Firefly vs Firestar |
On Sun, 3 Aug 1997, Henry C. Wortman wrote:
> complies with 103. A week or so ago I read a message on here that
> someone had a Firestar that was 103 compliant as it had only one seat.
> The other seat was available but had not been installed. Is this correct
> and if so would that be a choice for us to consider?
I'm not thoroughly up-to-date on this so anybody please correct me if
i'm off here, but... A Firestar comes in two flavors, I or II. The
I is built without the back "seat". With a Rotax 227, a I can make it
under FAR103 254 lbs. It is otherwise no different from a FS II, and
could even be turned into a FS II simply by putting on a decent size
engine.
My questions to the list:
1. Does a FS I have 7 ribs/wing and 2 false top ribs each section?
(The original FS and FS KX did not, which made it ~5 lbs lighter and
not strong enf for an engine larger than 447.)
2. Does a FFly make legal weight with brakes?
My opinion, FWIW
If you are wary of a very zealous local FAA office, i spose i'd go for
a FFly. If you add options to it, which for me would be desirable, you'd
get out of legal FAR103 anyway, but could of course easily change back
to no options. Given what I see as the FAA's lack of time or interest in
chasing down fat ULs, I'd go for a single place FS II and avoid doing low
buzzes around the tower at busy controlled airports. If in the future
FAA gets nasty (which would be caused by us ULers buzzing towers), you'd
have to change to a whimp engine, sell the plane, register it Exp, or
go to jail and dream about the good-ol-days.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Bing carb question |
B
Hi guys/gals
Got a question, but i think it needs a bit of background, so pls
bare w/ me...
I had an absolutely fantastic flying day saturday, flying over to the
coast (Pacific), finding enf of a break in the coastal clouds to get
in close, etc etc. More on that and some pics later this week...
Part of the "adventure" was that for the first time ever, i was unable
to start my engine for an uncomfortably long period. This was after
landing on top of a hill overlooking the Pacific, with not a soul around
for quite a good distance. In attempts to start, I thought I might be
flooding it, so a few times removed the air cleaner, opened the throttle,
and sat down to think (and rest my arms, pant, pant) while the cylinders
evaporated the supposed too much fuel. Turns out that this was not the
case as I finally got it started by dribbling a bit of fuel into the
carb throat. One pull and varooom. I ran it for a few minutes (cow
pies and a hill make good wheel chocks) even up to 4.5k rpm then taxiied
over to my start point ...and it quit!!! Same hassle only a little
smarter now, i got the engine running again right away. While it was
running here i did verify that my choke circuit was operating fine.
Believe me, i ran it for 4-5 minutes w/ big ...er, chocks, to gain enf
confidence to launch off the hill. Engine operated like a fine Swiss
watch (ok a loud swiss watch) as usual for the remainder of the day.
So, (finally) here's the question... Does anybody know of the Bing carbs
possibly not being able to get fuel into the intake throat when being
jostled around a lot? Does this sound plausible? Except for having a
slightly lean idle mixture for the cooler air at the coast, this was the
only thing different, i.e. at this site i taxied further and over much
bumpier ground while at idle than ever before. I'm wondering if the
fuel, while trying to get sucked into the intake, kept getting knocked
back down into the bowl by the bumpy ride. Or, anything else about the
bumpy ride that might cause wierd carb float bowl behavior?
Any thoughts?
At least one thing i did learn: Smelling fuel during start attempts is
not an indication of being flooded. In my case this wknd, it was simply
the fuel sloshing around in the tank with each yank of the starter cord.
(Fear of being stuck here had me pulling harder than usual.) Also btw,
i turned off my strobe during this frustration, thinking that i wanted
all the electricity going to the magneto i could get. Was glad to have
a switch on the strobe box even tho, in retrospect, it was not a factor.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cal <cgreen(at)centuryinter.net> |
Ben,
I've heard of that carb float problem, but never on a two
cycle engine. I've seen carbs on old farm tractors and lawn
and garden equipment that have a small spring on the float
that pushes the float open, to prevent it from closing when
bouncing over rough ground. I'm not familar with the float in
the bing carb, but it does happen on other carbs.
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bing carb question |
A
>So, (finally) here's the question... Does anybody know of the Bing carbs
>possibly not being able to get fuel into the intake throat when being
>jostled around a lot?
> --------|--------
> Ben Ransom (*)
> Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
> http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
I know if you leave out the little nylon mesh screen that fits
around the bottom of the main jet holder in the bottom of the float bowl, it
will make it do that, but that is all I can think of.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA 442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pat kegebein <pak(at)niia.net> |
Do you thing that I will have enough room to take off with the MK III,
and the 912 engine, in less than 900 feet. With a passenger and without
Thank You,
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
Subject: | RE: Kolb: Runway |
I'm building a personal use airport for my Mark III with a 912, so this
issue is something I'm dealing with daily.
What is your glide slope on each end of the runway? If its 20:1 or
better, and you're not going to try and do this in gusty wind
conditions, I would think you're OK. Have you checked with your state
licensing agency? I've found the Pennsylvania Bureau of Aviation has
been very good at this kind of question, and they have to license
personal use airports anyway.
Then there is (here anyway) the separate and painful issue of zoning...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pat kegebein [SMTP:pak(at)niia.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 1997 10:15 AM
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Kolb: Runway
>
> Do you thing that I will have enough room to take off with the MK III,
> and the 912 engine, in less than 900 feet. With a passenger and
> without
>
> Thank You,
> Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
OK, the local FAA office contacted me within 10 days of receiving the
paperwork to inspect and issue airworthiness, and they warned me that they
were extremely busy. They tried to offer me to go with the DAR (Designated
Inspector, not FAA employee, charges for his services). I told them then
I would wait since I thought they were talking about "weeks". Yesterday
(two weeks later) I called again and they said "relax, it's only been a
month, we've had people wait five months before". They again offered the
DAR and I asked for a name and number. Turns out the guy they recommended
is living in Canada, and charges up to a thousand dollars (US) plus travel
expenses. Anybody want to buy all the parts to build a Mkiii, real cheap?
But seriously, does anyone know the following:
1. How might I find a complete list of DARs, hopefully one closer to
me and one who works for a reasonable fee?
2. Any way to get the FAA more motivated to provide this service?
3. Any other experiences, advice, etc. is welcome, I have the time...
BRING ON THE SPORT PLANE CATEGORY!
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
Subject: | RE: Certification |
This surprises me. In December or January or so, called the FAA
Manufacturing Inspection District office for my region, in Teterboro,
New Jersey, and they immediately mailed me complete instructions. When
I was ready, they sent someone in, if I recall correctly, around 2
weeks. He was very nice, gave me some helpful instructions, and
certified the plane on the spot. For the most part, it was a pleasant -
and entirely free (if I recall correctly) - experience.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM
> [SMTP:GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 1997 12:59 PM
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Certification
>
> OK, the local FAA office contacted me within 10 days of receiving
> the
> paperwork to inspect and issue airworthiness, and they warned me that
> they
> were extremely busy. They tried to offer me to go with the DAR
> (Designated
> Inspector, not FAA employee, charges for his services). I told them
> then
> I would wait since I thought they were talking about "weeks".
> Yesterday
> (two weeks later) I called again and they said "relax, it's only been
> a
> month, we've had people wait five months before". They again offered
> the
> DAR and I asked for a name and number. Turns out the guy they
> recommended
> is living in Canada, and charges up to a thousand dollars (US) plus
> travel
> expenses. Anybody want to buy all the parts to build a Mkiii, real
> cheap?
> But seriously, does anyone know the following:
> 1. How might I find a complete list of DARs, hopefully one closer
> to
> me and one who works for a reasonable fee?
> 2. Any way to get the FAA more motivated to provide this service?
> 3. Any other experiences, advice, etc. is welcome, I have the
> time...
> BRING ON THE SPORT PLANE CATEGORY!
> Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | FW: Certification |
Ask the FAA If you can tow it somewhere to have it inspected
immediately.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Scott Bentley [SMTP:Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com@acuityinc.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 1997 10:26 AM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: RE: Certification
>
>This surprises me. In December or January or so, called the FAA
>Manufacturing Inspection District office for my region, in Teterboro,
>New Jersey, and they immediately mailed me complete instructions. When
>I was ready, they sent someone in, if I recall correctly, around 2
>weeks. He was very nice, gave me some helpful instructions, and
>certified the plane on the spot. For the most part, it was a pleasant -
>and entirely free (if I recall correctly) - experience.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM
>> [SMTP:GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM]
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 1997 12:59 PM
>> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>> Subject: Certification
>>
>> OK, the local FAA office contacted me within 10 days of receiving
>> the
>> paperwork to inspect and issue airworthiness, and they warned me that
>> they
>> were extremely busy. They tried to offer me to go with the DAR
>> (Designated
>> Inspector, not FAA employee, charges for his services). I told them
>> then
>> I would wait since I thought they were talking about "weeks".
>> Yesterday
>> (two weeks later) I called again and they said "relax, it's only been
>> a
>> month, we've had people wait five months before". They again offered
>> the
>> DAR and I asked for a name and number. Turns out the guy they
>> recommended
>> is living in Canada, and charges up to a thousand dollars (US) plus
>> travel
>> expenses. Anybody want to buy all the parts to build a Mkiii, real
>> cheap?
>> But seriously, does anyone know the following:
>> 1. How might I find a complete list of DARs, hopefully one closer
>> to
>> me and one who works for a reasonable fee?
>> 2. Any way to get the FAA more motivated to provide this service?
>> 3. Any other experiences, advice, etc. is welcome, I have the
>> time...
>> BRING ON THE SPORT PLANE CATEGORY!
>> Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Christina Reynen <reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Half doors - Pictures? |
Scott Bentley wrote:
>
> Do you have any pictures of your plane with these doors?
Here is a picture of the modified doors (description below). Scott was
so kind to publish it at this URL:
http://www.bentley.com/scott/kolbdoor.jpg
Frank Reynen, Kolb MarkIII at 395 hrs.
> >You wrote:
> >>>I am about to take off the doors for the summer (the rear enclosure
> >is already off) and would like to know if that affects the flying
> >>>characteristics any and whether I might need to get some goggles.
> >Does the air curl around the edge of the windshield, blast your face and
> >disturb your vision or can you fly without that kind of precaution.
> >>>I think the climb rate is a little better, and the
> >wind/turbulence in the cockpit is very great.(Blew my clip on sunglasses off!)
It > >is really quite disconcerting for several minutes. Probably goggles are
a good> >idea.
> >>Planning to redo my windshield/windows this winter. Will furnish
> >details if> >>it works.
> >
> >Hi all;
> >I removed the standard kolb doors from my MarkIII and found a terrific
> >windblast coming through the side openings that made flying almost
> >impossible without a full face shield.
> >I experimented with partial side doors and found that if I covered the
> >front half of the opening up to the lockplate, the wind would no longer
> >blow in my face and I also found that the plane handling improved
> >slightly at slow approach speeds.
> >
> >I cut this shape from the same polycarbon as supplied by Kolb for the
> >side windows and rivetted a bend and flared 5/16"rib in the front and
> >backside(vertical)to obtain a bow in the polycarbon material and to
> >stiffen the door.
> >
> >Next I rivetted a leftover hinge part along the top edge and aligned it
> >up with the existing hinge half of the windshield with 1/8"clearance at
> >the nose cone.
> >
> >This now covers the front half of the side openings and does not have
> >locks although one could be installed.
> >
> >I installed these 4 years (350hrs) ago and they have worked out well
> >and stay closed during flying due to the airpressure and I fly now
> >without the full doors all the time.
> >
> >Frank Reynen, Kolb MarkIII
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Bennett <sab(at)ultranet.com> |
Subject: | RE: Certification |
>>>This surprises me. In December or January or so, called the FAA
>>>Manufacturing Inspection District office for my region, in Teterboro,
I had the same experience with the MIDO in Burlington, MA. No more than a
week or two wait, and a very painless experience. However, I had been told
by the Flight Standards District Office (FSDO) in Bedford, MA that they
really encouraged the use of a D.A.R. and that I could expect up to a
year's delay if I held out for the FAA!
Don't go to your local FSDO - look instead for a Manufacturing Inspection
District Office or Satellite Office (MIDO or MISO). Send me email if
anyone needs help finding one, I have a copy of the FAA Organizational
Directory which is very helpful.
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: Certification |
> Don't go to your local FSDO - look instead for a Manufacturing Inspection
> District Office or Satellite Office (MIDO or MISO). Send me email if
> anyone needs help finding one, I have a copy of the FAA Organizational
> Directory which is very helpful.
>
> -Steve
You just hit the nail on the head! After hearing the stories here
yesterday, I started the process of trying to pre-arrange an inspection for
the SS. When I called the FSDO, I got the standard "use a DAR or it'll be
6-7 months" speech. I know that there's an FAA guy in Mobile AL that has
done several of these inspections locally, but the FSDO guy in Birmingham
claimed to know nothing about him. I also knew that he was a manufacturing
inspector so now it all makes sense.
Steve, I'm going to try to find the MIDO number (it's not in the book), but
if you have the info handy, I'd appreciate it if you'd e-mail me the number
for the office nearest to Pensacola, FL.
Thanks,
Rusty
PS- SS update will be coming soon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Neilsen <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
The following was posted on the Kolb trailer at
Oshkosh:
Kolb Floats with mounting hardware $3700.00 call Bill
at 705-869-1748. The photo looked like a MKIII and
they didn't appear to have wheels.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | I vote stock center stick |
Ed and All,
>How do you feel about the control stick "sitting" in the middle of
>the cockpit?
I have gotten to where I really like the arrangement and feel.. My right
arm (elbow) feels very comfortable resting on the 1X4 plank I installed over
the torque tube. My left hand resting on the knob of the center throttle
feels natural now.
There was some discussion about heavy aileron feel.
>Well it should be, all control pressure on right arm all the time,
>at right turn you must pull the stick away from your body and it
>must be harder than the other way with left turns.
Pretty much exactly as you describe, but I personally get pretty air sick if
I spend too much time twisting and turning. What I am trying to say is my
stomach wears out before my arm does.
>I am going to install my stick where it should be, between pilot's
>knees, unless you guys, persuade me that there is absolutely no
>problem with original installation.
If I could do mine over again, I would build it just stock as before (ie. I
have no problem with the original installation). I have seen a really nice
looking dual stick arrangement built by John Hauck and his brother.
>By the way this would be about 51st major change on this airplane
>(MarkIII). If anybody is interested in the list of my changes
>I will post it.
Major changes - be careful. Having said that, I am always interested in
hearing about and seeing changes. I did my share too... mostly copy cat.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (11.4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Certification |
I just went through this with my new Titan. The inspector that signed off my
Kolb suddenly was too busy to even think about another homebuilt (especially
a light plane) for months. He told me his schedule and 75% of it was for
office work and only 25% for inspecting planes like he is supposed to.
I took another approach ans called the Milwaukee FSDO (the inspectors are
from the MIDO office in MSP. They were very helpful at the FSDO and even
volunteered that two of their staff were authorized to inspect and sign off
homebuilts. Needless to say, within 4 days my new plane had its temp.
airworthyness cert and op. limits and we were in the air.
Try another approach with other branches of FAA in your area. You might get
lucky!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Kolb Flyer (sort of) 4sale |
I noticed an ad in the Sacramento paper for a Kolb. Since seeing a
Kolb 4 sale on the West coast is a rare thing i wanted to see what this
was. Some of you might find it interesting enf to nibble or bite.
I called the guy and found out it is a Kolb Flyer, but with a
Firestar cage. Huh? (says I). I guess it might originally have
been a Flyer but somewhere along the way got a replacement cage.
The seller is an A&P, says he stripped and recovered everything 2
years ago and hasn't flown it but 20 hours. Still has the pair of
Solo engines. (He says these are the ~18hp carbed versions, and
don't get it going all too fast.)
His name is Jeff and you can reach him at jeff_lawrence(at)radian.com.
He's asking $4500. I hope to go see it just for fun if it is still
around, but won't get a chance for at least a week.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
UCD Mechanical Engineering Dept. o o
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re[2]: Certification |
You guys should make contact with you local EAA chapters. They
usually know the people and have a established relationship with local
DAR(s). They also know who to use and who to avoid. Plus, they have
technical counselors that can come do a preinspection to see if they
can fine anything that they might ding you on. Most important have
your paper work in order. That usually sets the tone for the
remainder of the inspection. The chapter can also help your with
weight and balance or things like scales.
How does the relationship help you.
1. They have experience with the building quality typical of the
chapter members.
2. They usually have more reasonable rates.
3. There mode of operation is known by the chapter (are they
reasonable and will they work with you).
4. Because of the above, they may give you a larger restricted area
to fly your time off. Most time you just have to ask nicely other
wise you'll get the standard 25-40 mile radius.
5. If your on the area of a terminal control area (class B airspace)
and you get 25-40 mile radius from you home airport, it may on give
you half of the circle. You can ask for a different reference point
like a VOR or a different airport to displace the center point giving
you more flying area.
Good luck,
Jerry
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Certification
Date: 8/7/97 8:39 AM
> Don't go to your local FSDO - look instead for a Manufacturing Inspection
> District Office or Satellite Office (MIDO or MISO). Send me email if
> anyone needs help finding one, I have a copy of the FAA Organizational
> Directory which is very helpful.
>
> -Steve
You just hit the nail on the head! After hearing the stories here
yesterday, I started the process of trying to pre-arrange an inspection for
the SS. When I called the FSDO, I got the standard "use a DAR or it'll be
6-7 months" speech. I know that there's an FAA guy in Mobile AL that has
done several of these inspections locally, but the FSDO guy in Birmingham
claimed to know nothing about him. I also knew that he was a manufacturing
inspector so now it all makes sense.
Steve, I'm going to try to find the MIDO number (it's not in the book), but
if you have the info handy, I'd appreciate it if you'd e-mail me the number
for the office nearest to Pensacola, FL.
Thanks,
Rusty
PS- SS update will be coming soon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
This is not exactly a Kolb related question ,so to speak but please excuse
me for this once. I grew up around airplanes and got bit by the flying bug
a long time ago, but my wife has never even been flying! I was wondering
how many of you married Kolb pilots' spouses care anything about your
passion for flying or are you like me and just do it anyway??? I remember
Russel Duffy saying several weeks ago that he thought his wife might take a
"token ride" in his SS when it is completed, that is what I expect (if
anything) out of my wife.
Sorry to have interrupted an otherwise normal aviation e-mail posting.
Thank you for the ear...
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pattym" <pattym(at)lushen.com> |
Adam Mills asked for a material list for an ultrastar and I think I have
that tucked away but can find it if you still need it . Let me know how
things are going.
Adam Mills asked for a material list
for an ultrastar and I think I have that tucked away but can find it if
you still need it . Let me know how things are going.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us> |
Jeremy
Like you my wife could care less. Now my daughter, there maybe hope for.
Gary
=========================================================================
| Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us |
| Souderton Pa. | |
=========================================================================
On Fri, 8 Aug 1997, Jeremy Casey wrote:
> This is not exactly a Kolb related question ,so to speak but please excuse
> me for this once. I grew up around airplanes and got bit by the flying bug
> a long time ago, but my wife has never even been flying! I was wondering
> how many of you married Kolb pilots' spouses care anything about your
> passion for flying or are you like me and just do it anyway??? I remember
> Russel Duffy saying several weeks ago that he thought his wife might take a
> "token ride" in his SS when it is completed, that is what I expect (if
> anything) out of my wife.
>
> Sorry to have interrupted an otherwise normal aviation e-mail posting.
> Thank you for the ear...
>
> Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Jeremy Casey wrote:
This is not exactly a Kolb related question ,so to speak but please excuse
me for this once. I grew up around airplanes and got bit by the flying bug
a long time ago, but my wife has never even been flying! I was wondering
how many of you married Kolb pilots spouses care anything about your
passion for flying or are you like me and just do it anyway??? I remember
Russel Duffy saying several weeks ago that he thought his wife might take a
"token ride" in his SS when it is completed, that is what I expect (if
anything) out of my wife.
Sorry to have interrupted an otherwise normal aviation e-mail posting.
Thank you for the ear...
I have a rare one. She loves to fly but I keep owning single seat airplanes.
I have a Firestar 2 with 38 house, and can't take her up until I fly off the
40 hours set by the FAA, my is registered experimental. (But I did give her a
ride, oops) But thats it for now, she is 6 months pregnant with our first
child. She was 5 months pregnant when I gave her a ride and her parents and
mine about flipped. I just told them what faith I have in my ability(feeling
my oats) and in the Kolb.
I kind a cheated, I married into a flying family, her dad has a cub, her
brother flies for American and another flies corporate. I did not get my
license until she prodded me into it even thought I have been into airplanes
my hole life, radio controlled etc. I also fly sailplanes which she also
loves.
All my friends at the airport wish they had a wife like mine. She does get a
bit putrurbed at me living at the airport though.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cal <cgreen(at)centuryinter.net> |
PKrotje(at)aol.com could you post or e-mail me the phone number
for the milwaukee FSDO, I live near milwaukee and I'll need my
FS inspected next year. Thanks.
Cal cgreen(at)centuryinter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>This is not exactly a Kolb related question ,so to speak but please excuse
>me for this once. I grew up around airplanes and got bit by the flying bug
> a long time ago, but my wife has never even been flying! I was wondering
>how many of you married Kolb pilots' spouses care anything about your
>passion for flying or are you like me and just do it anyway??? I remember
>Russel Duffy saying several weeks ago that he thought his wife might take a
>"token ride" in his SS when it is completed, that is what I expect (if
>anything) out of my wife.
>
>Sorry to have interrupted an otherwise normal aviation e-mail posting.
>Thank you for the ear...
>
>Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
Plan ahead. Your wife will like the ride a lot more if:
You go land somewhere that she will have someone she enjoys
seeing or talking to.(same as you do)
You choose flight times that are smooth and the scenery is
enjoyable.
You fly over areas that are safe in the event of engine
failure. If she knows that you have chosen a route that offers a high degree
of safety, she will appreciate your thoughtfulness, and gain confidence in
your care of her in what is a possibly precarious situation. (Years ago I
read an article in a motorcycle magazine entitled "The passenger as
hostage". Changed my attitude.)
Set up your seat/cockpit area so that it is comfortable, and
easy to get in and out of. Before I bought my MKIII, I tried on a Challenger
for size, comfort, and ease of getting in/out. A disaster. Instant no-sale.
A couple of pudgy 50 year olds at a fly-in struggling to clamber out of an
awkward cockpit is a comedy routine Laurel and Hardy would envy. Don't put
Sweet Thing through it if you expect her to do it more than once.
Fly conservative until she directly specifies she wants
excitement.
Have a good noise canceling intercom. Women who cannot
communicate during times of stress will not do it again. Period.
Don't expect her to go every time, even if she enjoys it.
Good Luck
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) (and now you know why 2 old poops are still
going up in it together)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Need recommendation on a Transceiver |
From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
WILL
IT GOES THROUGH THE INTERCOM AND WORKS REAL GOOD THE PROBLEM THAT I
SEE WITH SOME OF THE OTHER RAIDOS IS THE BATT. WILL NOT HOLD UP AS LONG
AS THE ICOM . WE HAVE ALL CYCLED THE BATTERIES DOWN TO
0 VOLTS AND COME BACK UP WITH THE CHARGE AND THE ICOM IS STILL AT THE
TOP OF THE LIST THE RANGE ON THE NAV. I HAVE CHECKED IT OUT TO BE AT
9.500ft. IN A BEACH CRAFT TO BE 47 MILES OUT AND PICKED UP THE VOR
AT THE AIRPORT
HOPE THIS INFO HELPS OUT
RICK
LIBERSAT N106RL
>Last week I took off from the El Paso airport towards Roswell in my
>Cessna
>when El Paso departure informed me he was not clearly receiving my
>radio. I
>decided to do a 180, land and have the radio checked. It only turned
>out to
>be a $2.00 part but $110.00 in labor.
>
>I'm looking to buy a hand held transceiver as backup in my 172. I
>also want
>to use it as the main radio when ever I finish the FireStar. I want
>something with a big readout, a built in intercom would be nice. What
>are
>Kolb pilots using? The Icom A22 has a nice ad so does Sporty's
>JD-200. Is
>anyone using any of them?
>
>Regards
>Will Uribe
>WillU(at)aol.com
>Building a FireStar II:
>http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Bennett <sab(at)ultranet.com> |
Excellent advice from Mr. Oldpoops (Richard, do you use that abbreviation
when you talk to ATC? Or just to your own tracon...). Smooth flying
conditions are absolutely critical. And don't necessarily have a
destination for the first flight. Just up and around may be all that's
needed. One other bit of advice: depending on how windy your cabin is,
have some hair elastics handy! My wife's long hair would whip into her
eyes and get tangled on the headset. Most unpleasant.
I'm lucky. My wife is strictly a fair-weather flyer, but she enjoys it!
She hates turbulence, crosswind landings, and (in our Cessna) instrument
conditions. But on a nice calm summer evening, she's been known to call a
babysitter just so we can go up and cruise around in the Twinstar. We've
gone to a few fly-ins. It's fun to hear her answering people's questions
and to hear the pride start to creep into her voice when she explains that,
yes, we did build it ourselves.
-Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Prange" <evoice(at)acton.com> |
The reason I bought a Mark III as opposed to a single seater (Kolb) was at
my wife's insistence since she wanted to ride along.
I guess I'm lucky....she loves to fly and I like taking her.
Doug Prange
Lincoln, Nebraska
----------
> From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
> To: KOLB(at)intrig.com
> Subject: WIVES
> Date: Friday, August 08, 1997 10:54 AM
>
> This is not exactly a Kolb related question ,so to speak but please
excuse
> me for this once. I grew up around airplanes and got bit by the flying
bug
> a long time ago, but my wife has never even been flying! I was
wondering
> how many of you married Kolb pilots' spouses care anything about your
> passion for flying or are you like me and just do it anyway??? I remember
> Russel Duffy saying several weeks ago that he thought his wife might take
a
> "token ride" in his SS when it is completed, that is what I expect (if
> anything) out of my wife.
>
> Sorry to have interrupted an otherwise normal aviation e-mail posting.
> Thank you for the ear...
>
> Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | Wing gap seal spring tab and more... |
To All,
This is a post to make sure you MKIII guys inspect the spring hold down tab
on your wing gap seals. I posted that my right tab developed a crack from
the edge inboard to the tab. Wrong. When I drilled out the two rivets that
hold the tab to the Lexan to fix the problem I discovered the crack
originated at the rivet holes of the tab itself (ie. star cracks that were
expanding in several directions around both holes. The only one I had seen
was the one that was visible beyond the tab. I think the reason for these
occuring in the first place was because I did not oversize and debur the
holes in the Lexan when I mounted the tab. The left (exhaust) side seems to
be doing fine so far, but I will be watching it with an eagle eye.
The fix. I found some scrap stainless steel firewall material from a
previous project and made two plates 3"X2.25". I sandwiched the cracked
Lexan (drill stopped and squirted with some RTV silicone sealant to keep the
various pieces from vibrating) between the two plates with 5 rivets and
popped the original tab on top with a couple of more rivets through the
entire sandwitch. It looks pretty good (overkill it may be). I hope it will
be a permanent fix.
I think I will try the cooking oil treatment I have heard about to the
exhaust system. I was foolish and did not have it treated with one of the
various high temp paints. I figure what the heck now... it is already
getting rusty, a little oil can't hurt it anymore than it already is...
might even help!
I am on a roll now. After fixing the tab today, I made a paper template for
the new 1/2 doors I am going to build. I looked around the hanger for ready
material to use to make the hinges, frames, etc. I think I have got what I
need except for the Lexan sheets. I am going to use some left over aluminum
piano hinge material, some extruded U x-section stick material that I can
bend to form the vertical rear curve and some left over aluminum 1/2" angle
stick material to form the bottom. I still need a bit of other material to
form the forward bend, but I think I can swing it. A trip down to Cadillac
Plastics and maybe I will get lucky and find some scrap polycarbonate sheet
(at $1.50/lb). I might have my half doors for almost free.
I have noticed something else different since I started adding a little oil
to the fuel. Previously, the deposit on the IVO prop from the exhaust had
been a hard substance that had to be removed with a rag with a little
solvent or polish. Now the deposit is soft enough to be wiped off with just
a rag. What kind of deposits do others of you have on your IVO (or other
plastic type) props in the area where they pass behind the exhaust? I would
be curious to know.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (11.4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com |
Subject: | Re: Wing gap seal spring tab and more... |
Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote:
>
> To All,
>
> I have noticed something else different since I started adding a little oil
> to the fuel. Previously, the deposit on the IVO prop from the exhaust had
> been a hard substance that had to be removed with a rag with a little
> solvent or polish. Now the deposit is soft enough to be wiped off with just
> a rag. What kind of deposits do others of you have on your IVO (or other
> plastic type) props in the area where they pass behind the exhaust? I would
> be curious to know.
>
Hi all,
I use AV-2 in the oilpump of my 582 Rotax and a soft oil deposit forms
on the IVO blades after approx. 10 hrs that comes of easily with a rag
moistened with gasoline.
The engine has been running for almost 400 hrs and no additional oil has
been needed in the fuel.
Frank Reynen Mark-III @395hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Want to Buy - ICOM A21 in good condition |
I am looking for a good used (not abused) ICOM A21. If you have one
that in good shape and have been thinking of one of those nice compact
new A22's we might be able to work something out.
My self I don't like the A22, I have difficulty hearing it probably do
to my hearing loss. Plus I always want to turn the frequency knob.
My King KX-99 is fine and I don't have any problem with the A21. I
think it must be smaller speaker or tone quality with the A22.
If you have one and want to part with it let me know. I don't need it
right this minute so you have some time to think about it and save
your pennies.
Jerry Bidle
jerryb(at)ods.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Wing gap seal spring tab and more... |
From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
CLIFF
I HAVEN'T TALKED TO YOU LATELY ,, LIGHTNING ZAPPED MY MODEM
WELL ANYWAY SOUNDS LIKE YOU GOT THE RIGHT IDEA ON THE 1/2 DOOR THING
, AND THE IDEA ON THE GAP SEAL IS A GOOD ONE I WILL KEEP AN EYE OUT ON
MINE . THE STAR CRACKS THAT YOU HAVE ON YOUR GAP SEAL IS WHAT I HAVE ON
ALL OF MY LEXAN .. I HAVE BEEN TALKING TO THE FOLKES AT CADILLIC
PLASTIC AND HAVE BOUGHT A 4 X 8 X 1/16 AND A 4 X 4 X1/8 SHEET OF
LEXAN THIS LEXAN IS THE G.E.LEXAN BRAND AND IT HAS A 5 YEAR WARENTY ON
IT THEY ALSO HAVE THE SMOKED AND BRONZE LEXAN. CLIFF I THINK I WILL TRY
SOME "C" RUBBER CHANNEL I WILL PUT THIS AROUND THE FRONT WINDOW ON
EACH SIDE OF THE DOWN TUBES ONE SIDE WILL BE ON THE DOWN TUBES AND THE
OTHER WILL BE ON THE HINGE OF THE DOOR I AM HOPPING THIS WILL TAKE SOME
OF THE VIBRATIONS ALONG WITH USEING A # 30 BIT . DID I TELL YOU ABOUT
ANOTHER M III IN OUR AREA GARRY HALEY
FROM HOUSTON ONE MORE TO ADD TO THE LIST OF THE KOLB FLY IN SOMEDAY
HOPE EVERYTHING IS BACK TO NORMAL AROUND YOUR PLACE TELL CAROLYN
HI
RICK LIBERSAT N106RL
writes:
>To All,
>
>This is a post to make sure you MKIII guys inspect the spring hold
>down tab
>on your wing gap seals. I posted that my right tab developed a crack
>from
>the edge inboard to the tab. Wrong. When I drilled out the two
>rivets that
>hold the tab to the Lexan to fix the problem I discovered the crack
>originated at the rivet holes of the tab itself (ie. star cracks that
>were
>expanding in several directions around both holes. The only one I had
>seen
>was the one that was visible beyond the tab. I think the reason for
>these
>occuring in the first place was because I did not oversize and debur
>the
>holes in the Lexan when I mounted the tab. The left (exhaust) side
>seems to
>be doing fine so far, but I will be watching it with an eagle eye.
>
>The fix. I found some scrap stainless steel firewall material from a
>previous project and made two plates 3"X2.25". I sandwiched the
>cracked
>Lexan (drill stopped and squirted with some RTV silicone sealant to
>keep the
>various pieces from vibrating) between the two plates with 5 rivets
>and
>popped the original tab on top with a couple of more rivets through
>the
>entire sandwitch. It looks pretty good (overkill it may be). I hope
>it will
>be a permanent fix.
>
>I think I will try the cooking oil treatment I have heard about to the
>exhaust system. I was foolish and did not have it treated with one of
>the
>various high temp paints. I figure what the heck now... it is already
>getting rusty, a little oil can't hurt it anymore than it already
>is...
>might even help!
>
>I am on a roll now. After fixing the tab today, I made a paper
>template for
>the new 1/2 doors I am going to build. I looked around the hanger for
>ready
>material to use to make the hinges, frames, etc. I think I have got
>what I
>need except for the Lexan sheets. I am going to use some left over
>aluminum
>piano hinge material, some extruded U x-section stick material that I
>can
>bend to form the vertical rear curve and some left over aluminum 1/2"
>angle
>stick material to form the bottom. I still need a bit of other
>material to
>form the forward bend, but I think I can swing it. A trip down to
>Cadillac
>Plastics and maybe I will get lucky and find some scrap polycarbonate
>sheet
>(at $1.50/lb). I might have my half doors for almost free.
>
>I have noticed something else different since I started adding a
>little oil
>to the fuel. Previously, the deposit on the IVO prop from the exhaust
>had
>been a hard substance that had to be removed with a rag with a little
>solvent or polish. Now the deposit is soft enough to be wiped off
>with just
>a rag. What kind of deposits do others of you have on your IVO (or
>other
>plastic type) props in the area where they pass behind the exhaust? I
>would
>be curious to know.
>
>Later,
>
>--
>Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (11.4 hrs)
>(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
> Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com |
Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote:
>
> I am on a roll now. After fixing the tab today, I made a paper template for
> the new 1/2 doors I am going to build.
Did you see this solution for 1/2 doors for a Mark III?
Here is a picture: http://www.bentley.com/scott/kolbdoor.jpg; the how-to
follows below.
Frank Reynen, Kolb MarkIII at 396 hrs.
> >I removed the standard kolb doors from my MarkIII and found a terrific
> >windblast coming through the side openings that made flying almost
> >impossible without a full face shield.
> >I experimented with partial side doors and found that if I covered the
> >front half of the opening up to the lockplate, the wind would no longer
> >blow in my face and I also found that the plane handling improved
> >slightly at slow approach speeds.
> >
> >I cut this shape from the same polycarbon as supplied by Kolb for the
> >side windows and rivetted a bend and flared 5/16"rib in the front and
> >backside(vertical), to obtain a bow in the polycarbon material and to
> >stiffen the door.
> >
> >Next I rivetted a leftover hinge part along the top edge and aligned it
> >up with the existing hinge half of the windshield with 1/8"clearance at
> >the nose cone.
> >
> >This now covers the front half of the side openings and does not have
> >locks although one could be installed.
> >
> >I installed these 4 years (350hrs) ago and they have worked out well
> >and stay closed during flying due to the airpressure and I fly now
> >without the full doors all the time.
> >
> >Frank Reynen, Kolb MarkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
Well haven't checked the E-mail for a couple of days but now I see that I
have had several responses to my rambling. I see that I am not alone but
it wasn't unanimous. For all you guys out their who have wifes that go
along I envy. Maybe one day mine will go along(I'll keep bugging her!...).
Thanks for all the input.
One other question. I am finishing the workshop that I am going to
use to build a MkIII this winter and was wondering what kind of delivery
times that Kolb has right now. If no one knows I'll call the plant just
thought I'd save their time for important calls.
Thanks again, Jeremy Casey
P.S. Just got your call sign there Richard " for 2 old poops" I'm slow but
I can be taught!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cal <cgreen(at)centuryinter.net> |
I had to put my covering proget on hold last week, because I
had ordered poly-spray and mek and its still sitting in a
warehouse in illinois. (ups assholes) Obviosly I can cover my
FS without the poly-spray but I need the mek. I checked with
the local hardware stores and couln't find it, I found a
product called acetone which I know is similar, so I called
poly-fiber and they said it wasn't the right solvent(they
didn't give me a reason why) This evening I was reading an
article in the kitplane mag. and some guy was using acetone to
thin poly-tak to glue the finishing strips on. Did any of you
guys use acetone? Does it make a difference?
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | edk(at)primenet.com (EDWARD D. KNESL) |
Subject: | Mark III changes |
Here is my list of improvements:
- All controls have aluminum trailing edge as sold by Aircraft Spruce.
- All controls have ribs attached to leading edge with triangular
gussets. It all makes very, very clean surfaces.
- End ribs are full length with one split tube fitted over the counter
part.
- Rudder half ribs were staggered left & right to get good symetrical
airfoil.
- All controls have 4130 steel welded hinges, 3 per unit, on .035 split
sleeve over trailing or leading edge. Allows rotation and adjustment
at rigging, then riveted.
- Wings have AL 2024 .024 capped leading edge, 12" total width. Provides
aditional torsional rigidity to the wing structure ( Important for
single wing strut structures )
- Additional back half rib skewed to the tip of trailing edge and gusseted
to main spar. Prevents a flex of the trailing edge at wing tips - have
aileron counterweights. 5/16" X-bracing was eliminated.
- Four side gusset plates welded on wing and fuselage H-sections to bridge
1/2" through holes.
- Cockpit nose cone tilted up to follow the contour of the bottom of
the fuselafe cage. The top breaks with the windshield ~ 10 deg.
- Couple of "Piper" channels installed on the bottom of the cage to round
the underside as is the cone.
- Alum. instrument panel is mounted on floating brackets 6" in front of
the orig. panel, all back of onstruments, plumbing and wiring is visible
through the windshield and inspection is a part of preflight procedure.
- Rudder pedals were reworked to accomodate hydraulic toe brakes.
- Single 16 gal fuel tank installed with "remote" filler cap.
Changes on the drafting table - planned.
- Doors changes, also the back of the cage covering.
- Control stick to be moved to the center of left seat.
- Engine will be definitely fourstroker, no decission yet..
- Trailer of the narrow track sitting between airplane mains, that would
rest on cantelivered wheel ramps appr. 6" above ground.
Back to control stick issue : There is no way you can effectively and
safely handle the control of the airplane, engine control (throtle) and
flaps on the final approach with one (right) arm, when good coordination of
all controls is so critical. All this sounds outright dangerous.
Cliff & Carolyn,
You mentioned a motion sickness buging you while flying. Consider intallation
of the turn & bank indicator with the ball, or at least the ball. If you can
go through some twists and turns with ball centered all the time you should
not get sick. Your problems may be caused by uncoordinated turns inflicting
punishment to your stomach.
________________________________________________________________________________
Casey) writes:
<< I grew up around airplanes and got bit by the flying bug
a long time ago, but my wife has never even been flying! I was wondering
how many of you married Kolb pilots' spouses care anything about your
passion for flying or are you like me and just do it anyway??? >>
Yep!!! Just like you
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com |
> > I was wondering how many of you married Kolb pilots' spouses care anything
about your>>passion for flying or are you like me and just do it anyway???
> >
> >Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
> >
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> Plan ahead. Your wife will like the ride a lot more if:
> You go land somewhere that she will have someone she enjoys
> seeing or talking to.(same as you do)
> You choose flight times that are smooth and the scenery is
> enjoyable.
> You fly over areas that are safe in the event of engine
> failure. If she knows that you have chosen a route that offers a high degree
> of safety, she will appreciate your thoughtfulness, and gain confidence in
> your care of her in what is a possibly precarious situation. (Years ago I
> read an article in a motorcycle magazine entitled "The passenger as
> hostage". Changed my attitude.)
> Set up your seat/cockpit area so that it is comfortable, and
> easy to get in and out of. Before I bought my MKIII, I tried on a Challenger
> for size, comfort, and ease of getting in/out. A disaster. Instant no-sale.
> A couple of pudgy 50 year olds at a fly-in struggling to clamber out of an
> awkward cockpit is a comedy routine Laurel and Hardy would envy. Don't put
> Sweet Thing through it if you expect her to do it more than once.
> Fly conservative until she directly specifies she wants
> excitement.
> Have a good noise canceling intercom. Women who cannot
> communicate during times of stress will not do it again. Period.
> Don't expect her to go every time, even if she enjoys it.
> Good Luck
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) (and now you know why 2 old poops are still
> going up in it together)
Speaking as "the wife", I couldn't agree more with the above. My
"pilot" has me happily flying along in his Mark III because he NEVER
abuses the trust I put in him to provide a "thrill" but not a "chill".
Christina (wife of Mark III pilot Frank Reynen)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
Subject: | MEK availability |
MEK (I believe Methyl Ethyl Ketone) is readily available around here. I
found it in both the local hardware store, and the local paint store.
I'm surprised you have problems.
.... I checked with the local hardware stores and couln't find
it, I found a
> product called acetone which I know is similar, so I called
> poly-fiber and they said it wasn't the right solvent ...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
Subject: | Wing gap seal spring tab - Alternate installation |
See
http://members.aol.com/mykolbmk3/gaphold.jpg
for how this was done on my plane.
I think the velcro idea might be better, in general, than the spring.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
Subject: | Re: acetone vs mek |
At 09:59 PM 10/08/97, you wrote:
>
> I had to put my covering proget on hold last week, because I
>had ordered poly-spray and mek and its still sitting in a
>warehouse in illinois. (ups assholes) Obviosly I can cover my
>FS without the poly-spray but I need the mek. I checked with
>the local hardware stores and couln't find it, I found a
>product called acetone which I know is similar, so I called
>poly-fiber and they said it wasn't the right solvent(they
>didn't give me a reason why) This evening I was reading an
>article in the kitplane mag. and some guy was using acetone to
>thin poly-tak to glue the finishing strips on. Did any of you
>guys use acetone? Does it make a difference?
>
> Cal
>
>
>
>
I have purchased MEK at a local paint store. The price was reasonable.
They sell it in one and four litre containers. You may have to go to a
large paint store that supplies painting contractors.
Kim (BKS) Mark 111
Saskatcewan, Canada
Brian "Kim" Steiner
Melville, Sask. Canada
steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mark III changes |
>Here is my list of improvements:
>
>
>Back to control stick issue : There is no way you can effectively and
>safely handle the control of the airplane, engine control (throtle) and
>flaps on the final approach with one (right) arm, when good coordination of
>all controls is so critical. All this sounds outright dangerous.
>
>
>Cliff & Carolyn,
>
>You mentioned a motion sickness buging you while flying. Consider intallation
>of the turn & bank indicator with the ball, or at least the ball. If you can
>go through some twists and turns with ball centered all the time you should
>not get sick. Your problems may be caused by uncoordinated turns inflicting
>punishment to your stomach.
>
>
> Since I have the throttle mounted on the left inside wall of the
fuselage behind the door latch, I would agree with you that working it with
your free hand is an improvement. However I have found it to be very easy to
reach across with the left hand to work the flap lever.
Reference the turn and ball: A yaw string taped to the lower front
center of the windshield will do the same thing, and even if yur rich(I
ain't), it's lighter as well as cheaper. However, it's apparent backward
pointing is a bit unsettling if you are used to "stepping on the ball".
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Yates <johny(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mark III changes |
>Here is my list of improvements:
>
>- All controls have aluminum trailing edge as sold by Aircraft Spruce.
>- All controls have ribs attached to leading edge with triangular
> gussets. It all makes very, very clean surfaces.
>- End ribs are full length with one split tube fitted over the counter
> part.
>- Rudder half ribs were staggered left & right to get good symetrical
> airfoil.
>- All controls have 4130 steel welded hinges, 3 per unit, on .035 split
> sleeve over trailing or leading edge. Allows rotation and adjustment
> at rigging, then riveted.
>- Wings have AL 2024 .024 capped leading edge, 12" total width. Provides
> aditional torsional rigidity to the wing structure ( Important for
> single wing strut structures )
>- Additional back half rib skewed to the tip of trailing edge and gusseted
> to main spar. Prevents a flex of the trailing edge at wing tips - have
> aileron counterweights. 5/16" X-bracing was eliminated.
>- Four side gusset plates welded on wing and fuselage H-sections to bridge
> 1/2" through holes.
>- Cockpit nose cone tilted up to follow the contour of the bottom of
> the fuselafe cage. The top breaks with the windshield ~ 10 deg.
>- Couple of "Piper" channels installed on the bottom of the cage to round
> the underside as is the cone.
>- Alum. instrument panel is mounted on floating brackets 6" in front of
> the orig. panel, all back of onstruments, plumbing and wiring is visible
> through the windshield and inspection is a part of preflight procedure.
>- Rudder pedals were reworked to accomodate hydraulic toe brakes.
>- Single 16 gal fuel tank installed with "remote" filler cap.
>
That's great all those changes, but why don't you just design your own
airplane and call it something else (not a Kolb of course). Remember
weight= performance!!! Good luck on your extra experimental.
John
>Changes on the drafting table - planned.
>
>- Doors changes, also the back of the cage covering.
>- Control stick to be moved to the center of left seat.
>- Engine will be definitely fourstroker, no decission yet..
>- Trailer of the narrow track sitting between airplane mains, that would
> rest on cantelivered wheel ramps appr. 6" above ground.
>
>
>Back to control stick issue : There is no way you can effectively and
>safely handle the control of the airplane, engine control (throtle) and
>flaps on the final approach with one (right) arm, when good coordination of
>all controls is so critical. All this sounds outright dangerous.
>
>
>Cliff & Carolyn,
>
>You mentioned a motion sickness buging you while flying. Consider intallation
>of the turn & bank indicator with the ball, or at least the ball. If you can
>go through some twists and turns with ball centered all the time you should
>not get sick. Your problems may be caused by uncoordinated turns inflicting
>punishment to your stomach.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | William H Hatfield <hatfield(at)tsixroads.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mark III changes |
John Yates wrote:
>
> >Here is my list of improvements:
> >
> >- All controls have aluminum trailing edge as sold by Aircraft Spruce.
> >- All controls have ribs attached to leading edge with triangular
> > gussets. It all makes very, very clean surfaces.
> >- End ribs are full length with one split tube fitted over the counter
> > part.
> >- Rudder half ribs were staggered left & right to get good symetrical
> > airfoil.
> >- All controls have 4130 steel welded hinges, 3 per unit, on .035 split
> > sleeve over trailing or leading edge. Allows rotation and adjustment
> > at rigging, then riveted.
> >- Wings have AL 2024 .024 capped leading edge, 12" total width. Provides
> > aditional torsional rigidity to the wing structure ( Important for
> > single wing strut structures )
> >- Additional back half rib skewed to the tip of trailing edge and gusseted
> > to main spar. Prevents a flex of the trailing edge at wing tips - have
> > aileron counterweights. 5/16" X-bracing was eliminated.
> >- Four side gusset plates welded on wing and fuselage H-sections to bridge
> > 1/2" through holes.
> >- Cockpit nose cone tilted up to follow the contour of the bottom of
> > the fuselafe cage. The top breaks with the windshield ~ 10 deg.
> >- Couple of "Piper" channels installed on the bottom of the cage to round
> > the underside as is the cone.
> >- Alum. instrument panel is mounted on floating brackets 6" in front of
> > the orig. panel, all back of onstruments, plumbing and wiring is visible
> > through the windshield and inspection is a part of preflight procedure.
> >- Rudder pedals were reworked to accomodate hydraulic toe brakes.
> >- Single 16 gal fuel tank installed with "remote" filler cap.
> >
>
> That's great all those changes, but why don't you just design your own
> airplane and call it something else (not a Kolb of course). Remember
> weight= performance!!! Good luck on your extra experimental.
> John
>
> >Changes on the drafting table - planned.
> >
> >- Doors changes, also the back of the cage covering.
> >- Control stick to be moved to the center of left seat.
> >- Engine will be definitely fourstroker, no decission yet..
> >- Trailer of the narrow track sitting between airplane mains, that would
> > rest on cantelivered wheel ramps appr. 6" above ground.
> >
> >
> >Back to control stick issue : There is no way you can effectively and
> >safely handle the control of the airplane, engine control (throtle) and
> >flaps on the final approach with one (right) arm, when good coordination of
> >all controls is so critical. All this sounds outright dangerous.
> >
> >
> >Cliff & Carolyn,
> >
> >You mentioned a motion sickness buging you while flying. Consider intallation
> >of the turn & bank indicator with the ball, or at least the ball. If you can
> >go through some twists and turns with ball centered all the time you should
> >not get sick. Your problems may be caused by uncoordinated turns inflicting
> >punishment to your stomach.
> >
> >
> >
> >
WORDS OF CAUTION to ALL: As a retired military pilot with many hours of
flying in convential and jet aircraft, I experienced some test flying on
a small scale and as such received some schooling on aircraft structural
design and aerodynamics, etc. I'm in no way an expert but would like to
pass on some things we were taught. Aircraft are designed to fly and
survive in some harsh inviroments such as vibrations, stress,
turbulence, take-off and landings,etc. To survive these problems, many
of the components and structures must flex, expand, contract and are
designed to withstand extreme conditions of flight. The wings on some
large jets must flex 16 feet up and down and some supersoncic craft
actually "grow or shrink" a few inches during high speed flight. You can
actually weaken or decrease the life expectancy of a craft when you
"beef-up" or make some components more rigid. This is not to say you
should never make something stronger, but make sure your "design
Improvements" doesn't make for design faults. I strongly believe that
modification of any signifiance should be approved or at least evaluated
by a design/structual engineer or the builder. Added weight as well as
weight/balance are other important considerations. Now this message is
in no way meant to discourage making improvements or design changes,
just be aware of the S-A-F-E-T-Y factors that could be involved. Fly
safe with many happy landings. Bill Hatfield
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Yates <johny(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mark III changes |
> John Yates wrote: No John Yates did not write this read below to see
what i wrote!!!
>>
>> >Here is my list of improvements:
>> >
>> >- All controls have aluminum trailing edge as sold by Aircraft Spruce.
>> >- All controls have ribs attached to leading edge with triangular
>> > gussets. It all makes very, very clean surfaces.
>> >- End ribs are full length with one split tube fitted over the counter
>> > part.
>> >- Rudder half ribs were staggered left & right to get good symetrical
>> > airfoil.
>> >- All controls have 4130 steel welded hinges, 3 per unit, on .035 split
>> > sleeve over trailing or leading edge. Allows rotation and adjustment
>> > at rigging, then riveted.
>> >- Wings have AL 2024 .024 capped leading edge, 12" total width. Provides
>> > aditional torsional rigidity to the wing structure ( Important for
>> > single wing strut structures )
>> >- Additional back half rib skewed to the tip of trailing edge and
gusseted
>> > to main spar. Prevents a flex of the trailing edge at wing tips - have
>> > aileron counterweights. 5/16" X-bracing was eliminated.
>> >- Four side gusset plates welded on wing and fuselage H-sections to
bridge
>> > 1/2" through holes.
>> >- Cockpit nose cone tilted up to follow the contour of the bottom of
>> > the fuselafe cage. The top breaks with the windshield ~ 10 deg.
>> >- Couple of "Piper" channels installed on the bottom of the cage to round
>> > the underside as is the cone.
>> >- Alum. instrument panel is mounted on floating brackets 6" in front of
>> > the orig. panel, all back of onstruments, plumbing and wiring is
visible
>> > through the windshield and inspection is a part of preflight procedure.
>> >- Rudder pedals were reworked to accomodate hydraulic toe brakes.
>> >- Single 16 gal fuel tank installed with "remote" filler cap.
>> >------------------------------------------------------------
>> JOHN YATES WROTE THIS
>> That's great all those changes, but why don't you just design
your own
>> airplane and call it something else (not a Kolb of course). Remember
>> weight= performance!!! Good luck on your extra experimental.
>> John
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------
>WORDS OF CAUTION to ALL: As a retired military pilot with many hours of
>flying in convential and jet aircraft, I experienced some test flying on
>a small scale and as such received some schooling on aircraft structural
>design and aerodynamics, etc. I'm in no way an expert but would like to
>pass on some things we were taught. Aircraft are designed to fly and
>survive in some harsh inviroments such as vibrations, stress,
>turbulence, take-off and landings,etc. To survive these problems, many
>of the components and structures must flex, expand, contract and are
>designed to withstand extreme conditions of flight. The wings on some
>large jets must flex 16 feet up and down and some supersoncic craft
>actually "grow or shrink" a few inches during high speed flight. You can
>actually weaken or decrease the life expectancy of a craft when you
>"beef-up" or make some components more rigid. This is not to say you
>should never make something stronger, but make sure your "design
>Improvements" doesn't make for design faults. I strongly believe that
>modification of any signifiance should be approved or at least evaluated
>by a design/structual engineer or the builder. Added weight as well as
>weight/balance are other important considerations. Now this message is
>in no way meant to discourage making improvements or design changes,
>just be aware of the S-A-F-E-T-Y factors that could be involved. Fly
>safe with many happy landings. Bill Hatfield
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | SlingShot Update |
Hi all,
The SlingShot is really starting to take shape these days, and there's
finally a faint glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel. Currently, the
only things I need to finish are:
final flaperon setup
aileron gap seals
Lexan
BRS mount
engine run and break-in
inspection
flight training
transportation to the airport
life insurance check-up :-)
I decided to use a DAR for the inspection. I talked to a guy in Enterprise
AL that will do the inspection on the weekend, in my garage, for $250 plus
about $60 in fuel for his Cessna 210 to get here. This is kind of
expensive, and I'm sure that many people wouldn't use this option, but I'm
on a tight schedule so it's worth it to me. I just received the packet of
info that the guy sent regarding certification, and I've got some serious
paperwork to do :-(
After failing to be able to arrange a tailwheel endorsement locally, I
decided to go to Kolb for the transition training. Dan's a CFI and can
give me an endorsement limited to Kolb models which will make me legal.
We'll be driving up on the 31st, and 1st, and hopefully flying starting the
2nd. (John, let me know if we can arrange that beer) If the weather is
good, it really shouldn't take more than a couple days, but the weather
turns stinky every time I plan to fly. Tomorrow is my 3rd attempt to get
my BFR in a Tomahawk. Thunderstorms stopped the first 2 attempts.
Two other good reasons for going to Kolb are the ride that Dennis is going
to give me in the 912 SS, and the fact that I can look their planes over
closely to make sure that I've done everything the same way they did. That
should go a long way toward confidence during my first flight.
All you other SlingShot builders will be happy to know that I've done all
the groundwork for insurance with Avemco. The SS is on the approved list
now.
Basically, I plan to be in the air by mid-September. Can't wait :-) Sorry
the web page isn't all that up-to-date. Just been too busy building.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | William V Rayfield <rayfiwv(at)mail.auburn.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Wing gap seal spring tab and more... |
Cliff- where did you purchase the Lexan? My father and I are building an
Ultrastar and are making a few changes-one of which is a pod and
windshield. We have tried some local places but have been unsuccessful.
Your helpwould be appreciated.
Bill Rayfield
On Sun, 10 Aug 1997, RICK M LIBERSAT wrote:
> CLIFF
> I HAVEN'T TALKED TO YOU LATELY ,, LIGHTNING ZAPPED MY MODEM
> WELL ANYWAY SOUNDS LIKE YOU GOT THE RIGHT IDEA ON THE 1/2 DOOR THING
> , AND THE IDEA ON THE GAP SEAL IS A GOOD ONE I WILL KEEP AN EYE OUT ON
> MINE . THE STAR CRACKS THAT YOU HAVE ON YOUR GAP SEAL IS WHAT I HAVE ON
> ALL OF MY LEXAN .. I HAVE BEEN TALKING TO THE FOLKES AT CADILLIC
> PLASTIC AND HAVE BOUGHT A 4 X 8 X 1/16 AND A 4 X 4 X1/8 SHEET OF
> LEXAN THIS LEXAN IS THE G.E.LEXAN BRAND AND IT HAS A 5 YEAR WARENTY ON
> IT THEY ALSO HAVE THE SMOKED AND BRONZE LEXAN. CLIFF I THINK I WILL TRY
> SOME "C" RUBBER CHANNEL I WILL PUT THIS AROUND THE FRONT WINDOW ON
> EACH SIDE OF THE DOWN TUBES ONE SIDE WILL BE ON THE DOWN TUBES AND THE
> OTHER WILL BE ON THE HINGE OF THE DOOR I AM HOPPING THIS WILL TAKE SOME
> OF THE VIBRATIONS ALONG WITH USEING A # 30 BIT . DID I TELL YOU ABOUT
> ANOTHER M III IN OUR AREA GARRY HALEY
> FROM HOUSTON ONE MORE TO ADD TO THE LIST OF THE KOLB FLY IN SOMEDAY
> HOPE EVERYTHING IS BACK TO NORMAL AROUND YOUR PLACE TELL CAROLYN
> HI
>
> RICK LIBERSAT N106RL
> writes:
> >To All,
> >
> >This is a post to make sure you MKIII guys inspect the spring hold
> >down tab
> >on your wing gap seals. I posted that my right tab developed a crack
> >from
> >the edge inboard to the tab. Wrong. When I drilled out the two
> >rivets that
> >hold the tab to the Lexan to fix the problem I discovered the crack
> >originated at the rivet holes of the tab itself (ie. star cracks that
> >were
> >expanding in several directions around both holes. The only one I had
> >seen
> >was the one that was visible beyond the tab. I think the reason for
> >these
> >occuring in the first place was because I did not oversize and debur
> >the
> >holes in the Lexan when I mounted the tab. The left (exhaust) side
> >seems to
> >be doing fine so far, but I will be watching it with an eagle eye.
> >
> >The fix. I found some scrap stainless steel firewall material from a
> >previous project and made two plates 3"X2.25". I sandwiched the
> >cracked
> >Lexan (drill stopped and squirted with some RTV silicone sealant to
> >keep the
> >various pieces from vibrating) between the two plates with 5 rivets
> >and
> >popped the original tab on top with a couple of more rivets through
> >the
> >entire sandwitch. It looks pretty good (overkill it may be). I hope
> >it will
> >be a permanent fix.
> >
> >I think I will try the cooking oil treatment I have heard about to the
> >exhaust system. I was foolish and did not have it treated with one of
> >the
> >various high temp paints. I figure what the heck now... it is already
> >getting rusty, a little oil can't hurt it anymore than it already
> >is...
> >might even help!
> >
> >I am on a roll now. After fixing the tab today, I made a paper
> >template for
> >the new 1/2 doors I am going to build. I looked around the hanger for
> >ready
> >material to use to make the hinges, frames, etc. I think I have got
> >what I
> >need except for the Lexan sheets. I am going to use some left over
> >aluminum
> >piano hinge material, some extruded U x-section stick material that I
> >can
> >bend to form the vertical rear curve and some left over aluminum 1/2"
> >angle
> >stick material to form the bottom. I still need a bit of other
> >material to
> >form the forward bend, but I think I can swing it. A trip down to
> >Cadillac
> >Plastics and maybe I will get lucky and find some scrap polycarbonate
> >sheet
> >(at $1.50/lb). I might have my half doors for almost free.
> >
> >I have noticed something else different since I started adding a
> >little oil
> >to the fuel. Previously, the deposit on the IVO prop from the exhaust
> >had
> >been a hard substance that had to be removed with a rag with a little
> >solvent or polish. Now the deposit is soft enough to be wiped off
> >with just
> >a rag. What kind of deposits do others of you have on your IVO (or
> >other
> >plastic type) props in the area where they pass behind the exhaust? I
> >would
> >be curious to know.
> >
> >Later,
> >
> >--
> >Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (11.4 hrs)
> >(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
> > Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Orth" <orthbill(at)sover.net> |
Subject: | wing gap seal firefly with brs-5 canister chute |
Would appreciate help/advice/pic on how to fit/cut fabric wing seal as
canister is attached to main root. Thanks Bill Orth
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Orth" <orthbill(at)sover.net> |
Subject: | wing gap seal firefly with BRS5 canister |
Would appreciate description drawing or pic of wing gap fitting with fabric
seal Thanks Orth-address orthbill@ sover.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Mark III changes |
I have been following this thread for a while and I think its time to
put in my two cents. I haven't met a Kolb builder yet that hasn't made a few
changes to his plane to get it just the way he wanted it. Hey, if we weren't
tinkerers and shade tree mechanics we wouldn't feel like building these
things to begin with. I've built a mark 2 and a mark 3 and my advice to
everyone is to stick close to the plans. In this thread the author said
All controls have aluminum trailing edge as sold by Aircraft Spruce.
No offense intended but I think this is a silly change. There is no need
for additional metal at the trailing edge. If you have been following the
conversation here for a while you will know that there is a real aileron
flutter problem with the mark 3. Dennis says somes mark 3s need
counterweights, some don't. But the more you shift the cg of the controll
surface to the rear (by adding a metal trailing edge or a tape on the
trailing edge like I did) the greater your risk is of that problem. The
builder with the metal trailing edge has committed himself to adding aileron
counterweights. Which not only cut into your usable weight but screw you up
for installing the kunzelman strobes.
The problem here is that the guy who is making the changes usually has
zero time in type. Or at best a 10 minute "gee whiz" test ride.
Consequently the changes that are made are usually more informed by wishfull
thinking and fantasy than actual experience flying this particular plane. A
great example if this is the center stick. When I sold my mark 2 after
putting over 100 hours on it the instructor I sold it to groused about how
hard it would be to teach in the plane with only one stick. It was a big
negative for him, he almost didn't buy it. He looked around at John Hauck's
drawings etc for the dual stick mod. But after a month or two of teaching he
now tells me he loves it and would not do the mod if somebody gave it to him
for free. Remember Dennis and the boys have hundreds of hours in these
things and there is a reason why the design has evolved the way it has. Keep
in mind that the Mark 3 is a VERY mature design. Fly a mark 2 and then look
at the three. You can see that the changes are very well thought out. From
what I can gather there have been no significant changes in the mark three
design since it was introduced.
Another example:
Wings have AL 2024 .024 capped leading edge, 12" total width. Provides
aditional torsional rigidity to the wing structure ( Important for
single wing strut structures ) >>
Again: I don't want to bust on anyone here, but I see no need for this
change. I've seen it on a Mark 3 at SF and it looked like a bad idea. The
owner said he got more speed out of it, but when I looked close at the
installation of the sheet metal cap it looked to me like the fabric drumming
at the rear edge of the cap was going to wear through, on both the upper and
lower edge. So I guess you'd have to put cloth tape on the rear edge of the
cuff and then put a line of pinked tape centered on the edge all the way
down the wing . . . . . . . Anyway it looked like more trouble than it was
worth.
I guess my bottom line is that you are better off building the plane and
flying it for a while and then thinking about what changes you really need.
You might be surprised at how something that looked like an absolute
necessity when it sat in your garage might not be so important after all.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pat kegebein <pak(at)niia.net> |
I would like it if anybody with a scanner or a web-site with pictures of
the finished MKIII. I would like to see what other people have done for
their paintjob. If at all possible send me the pictures.
Thank you,
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Mark III changes |
On Tue, 12 Aug 1997 Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
> I have been following this thread for a while and I think its time to
> put in my two cents. I haven't met a Kolb builder yet that hasn't made a few
> changes to his plane to get it just the way he wanted it. Hey, if we weren't
> tinkerers and shade tree mechanics we wouldn't feel like building these
Sometimes i've wondered if all of my mods since completion would be
to undo all the "bright ideas" i had when i built it :-). I did make
minor mods at the time, and have been enjoying tinkering since as well.
I've posted mine at http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/build/mods.html,
if you have the time/inclination to look.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Kolb modifications... |
While we are on the subject of mods...
Has anyone seen the modification to the seats, as required for U.K. safety
standards? I understand they are hard-pan (aluminum?) and then upholstered, I
suppose. If anyone has a better description of the requirement, of better yet
some drawings, please let me know. The seats are an area I will probably make
an "improvement".
Dennis, if you're out there, are drawings available from the factory?
Mark iii status: 100% complete, waiting for FAA inspection for 5 weeks now,
called them again this week, not looking good, considering DAR, need one in
southern Minnesota area, not too happy about delay and cost, building custom
trailer to keep myself distracted.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Howard G. Penny" <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se> |
Subject: | RE: SlingShot Update |
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Duffy [SMTP:rad(at)pen.net]
The SlingShot is really starting to take shape these days, and there's
finally a faint glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel. ......
Great!!!
I decided to use a DAR for the inspection. I talked to a guy in Enterprise
AL that will do the inspection on the weekend, in my garage, for $250 plus
about $60 in fuel for his Cessna 210 to get here. This is kind of
expensive, ..........
Expensive ?!?! Ouch!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Howard G. Penny" <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se> |
Forgot to add that I have made some small updates to my web site.
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/hpenny
I have added a build log accessed from my project page. BTW the picture of
me is quite old. I hope to make the entire site much more interesting
soon. I will try to add construction pictures soon of my project and my
father's Sky Raider project.
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/hpenny
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Mark III changes |
<< I guess my bottom line is that you are better off building the plane
and
flying it for a while and then thinking about what changes you really need.
You might be surprised at how something that looked like an absolute
necessity when it sat in your garage might not be so important after all.
>>
I agree !00% with this point of view and I can relate 100% with the fella
that made all the changes as I think back on the golden time when I built my
Firestar in the garage and I conclude that that was one of the most glorious
times of my life ( and I've been around the block a few times).
I don't know about the rest of you, but when I was constructing it I was
living out one of my dreams....to fly. And there's a passel of stuff that
goes with dreaming that doesn't necessarily fit in the real world unless we
put it there ourselves. For some, it is the ultimate in self expression.
I don't know what I just said, but it sure sounds authoritative.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Mark III changes |
<< I have been following this thread for a while and I think its time to
put in my two cents. I haven't met a Kolb builder yet that hasn't made a
few
changes to his plane to get it just the way he wanted it. Hey, if we
weren't
tinkerers and shade tree mechanics we wouldn't feel like building these
things to begin with. I've built a mark 2 and a mark 3 and my advice to
everyone is to stick close to the plans. In this thread the author said
All controls have aluminum trailing edge as sold by Aircraft Spruce.
No offense intended but I think this is a silly change. There is no need
for additional metal at the trailing edge. If you have been following the
conversation here for a while you will know that there is a real aileron
flutter problem with the mark 3. Dennis says somes mark 3s need
counterweights, some don't. But the more you shift the cg of the controll
surface to the rear (by adding a metal trailing edge or a tape on the
trailing edge like I did) the greater your risk is of that problem. The
builder with the metal trailing edge has committed himself to adding aileron
counterweights. Which not only cut into your usable weight but screw you up
for installing the kunzelman strobes.
The problem here is that the guy who is making the changes usually has
zero time in type. Or at best a 10 minute "gee whiz" test ride.
Consequently the changes that are made are usually more informed by
wishfull
thinking and fantasy than actual experience flying this particular plane. A
great example if this is the center stick. When I sold my mark 2 after
putting over 100 hours on it the instructor I sold it to groused about how
hard it would be to teach in the plane with only one stick. It was a big
negative for him, he almost didn't buy it. He looked around at John Hauck's
drawings etc for the dual stick mod. But after a month or two of teaching
he
now tells me he loves it and would not do the mod if somebody gave it to him
for free. Remember Dennis and the boys have hundreds of hours in these
things and there is a reason why the design has evolved the way it has.
Keep
in mind that the Mark 3 is a VERY mature design. Fly a mark 2 and then look
at the three. You can see that the changes are very well thought out. From
what I can gather there have been no significant changes in the mark three
design since it was introduced.
Another example:
Wings have AL 2024 .024 capped leading edge, 12" total width. Provides
aditional torsional rigidity to the wing structure ( Important for
single wing strut structures ) >>
Again: I don't want to bust on anyone here, but I see no need for this
change. I've seen it on a Mark 3 at SF and it looked like a bad idea. The
owner said he got more speed out of it, but when I looked close at the
installation of the sheet metal cap it looked to me like the fabric drumming
at the rear edge of the cap was going to wear through, on both the upper and
lower edge. So I guess you'd have to put cloth tape on the rear edge of the
cuff and then put a line of pinked tape centered on the edge all the way
down the wing . . . . . . . Anyway it looked like more trouble than it was
worth.
I guess my bottom line is that you are better off building the plane
and
flying it for a while and then thinking about what changes you really need.
You might be surprised at how something that looked like an absolute
necessity when it sat in your garage might not be so important after all.
>>
Well said!! I concur completely after 200 hrs in my Mark III.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | 1st engine start advice? |
Hi again,
I'm planning to fire up the 503 for the first time this weekend. I bought
a tow strap to tie the tailpost to my car, and the engine is completely set
up. The injection system is bled, and I'll add 100/1 gas/oil mixture to
the tank. The EIS seems ready too. I guessed at the IVO pitch when I
installed it, and if I'm really lucky, It'll be close enough to use for the
break-in.
What's the best method to start this beast? Choke on I presume, but when
do you turn it off? Do I leave it on until the engine just starts, or
maybe until the engine warms up, will it flood if I yank too many times on
the rope with the choke on? Will I collapse of heat exhaustion if I yank
too many times :-)
Any words of wisdom will be appreciated.
BTW, I finally got back in the air this afternoon. I made my BFR flight
without any problems at all. I can't believe it's been 1.5 years since
I've flown. It was all so routine and comfortable, it's like I never left.
Look out Dan, here I come :-)
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brandon "Herb" Kearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
Subject: | Re: acetone vs mek |
Hello,
> I had to put my covering proget on hold last week, because I had
> ordered poly-spray and mek and its still sitting in a warehouse in
> illinois.
Cal, you should check your local paint store. The paint store that I
used had gallons of MEK. I never checked the hardware stores but I
bet your paint store will have it.
Brandon Kearbey
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey@ben.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| bcoe.butte.k12.
(_____________//----------------\^ ca.us
/ o
( )
Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: acetone vs mek |
Hi
I bought my MEK at the airport from Air Parts of El Paso, one gallon for
17.50. Call the airplane parts stores at your airport see if they have it.
Good Luck
Will Uribe
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
<< > I had to put my covering proget on hold last week, because I had
> ordered poly-spray and mek and its still sitting in a warehouse in
> illinois. >>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: 1st engine start advice? |
On Tue, 12 Aug 1997, Russell Duffy wrote:
> Hi again,
>
> I'm planning to fire up the 503 for the first time this weekend. I bought
>
> Any words of wisdom will be appreciated.
I'd suggest tethering to something other than your car ...maybe the
airport manager's or something :-). Problem is, the prop can throw
grit, etc and mess up the finish of whatever is close behind
...especially at high power break in. As for choke, remember that the
choke circuit works only at 0-5%, maybe 10% throttle. For me, I leave
the switch off, throttle 0-5%, and full choke for 2 pulls of the rope,
then switch on and it usually starts on the next or next next pull.
Slimming back to 0 choke will be obvious from your years of experience
mowing lawns. With the plane tethered you won't have to be quite as
active with 3 hands on the choke, throttle, and kill switch (if it
varoomed more than you intended). Should be fun.
PS: If you're doing this at home I'd put the cat and dog inside and
have someone else at hand with the responsibility of watching out for
curious kids. (my dog goes nuts when i fire it up and ever since
has gone just as berzerk when i start the lawn mower... I let her bite
at the lawn mower. )
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re: acetone vs mek |
Yes they are different.
Try a home building supply center (AKA lumber yard) paint store, etc.
One of them has to have it. I never had a problem buying it, just
gets down to how pay is determined by where you buy it.
If you have something like a Lowes, Home Depot, Payless Cashway,
Builder Square, or any of the other large building centers, there
should have it.
As for using Acetone, I wouldn't, while it may initially appear to
work, it may let go at the wrong time. We lost a guy and his wife in
EAA because he mixed the wrong things together and they finally came
unstuck.
There's got to be a local source in your area that has it. Just keep
it off your skin as much as possible, it is absorbed real fast and
ends up in the old liver. If you have to have you hands in it much
get some chemical gloves. I use the latex if I just rubbing
dope/poly-tack around with my fingers. The latex ones don't hold up
long if highly saturated or immersed such as cleaning spray equipment.
Get the chem gloves fore that.
Jerry
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: acetone vs mek
Date: 8/10/97 9:59 PM
I had to put my covering proget on hold last week, because I
had ordered poly-spray and mek and its still sitting in a
warehouse in illinois. (ups assholes) Obviosly I can cover my
FS without the poly-spray but I need the mek. I checked with
the local hardware stores and couln't find it, I found a
product called acetone which I know is similar, so I called
poly-fiber and they said it wasn't the right solvent(they
didn't give me a reason why) This evening I was reading an
article in the kitplane mag. and some guy was using acetone to
thin poly-tak to glue the finishing strips on. Did any of you
guys use acetone? Does it make a difference?
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
Disposition-Notification-To:
From: | Ron Hoyt <RONALD.R.HOYT(at)cdev.com> |
Does anyone know the products which etch and harden the aluminum in
preparation for priming? I am about to start the assembly of the fuselage
and I wanted to prep the boom before I installed it. I have powder coated
the steel white and was going to paint the boom white.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Weber (DVNS)" <bweber(at)micom.com> |
On Wed, 13 Aug 1997, Ron Hoyt wrote:
> Does anyone know the products which etch and harden the aluminum in
> preparation for priming? I am about to start the assembly of the fuselage
> and I wanted to prep the boom before I installed it. I have powder coated
> the steel white and was going to paint the boom white.
>
> Ron
If you have an auto painting specialty shop in your area, they can set
you up with what you need. I don't remember the brand I used, but what
you want is a mild acid etching solution. Make sure you get one for
aluminum and not steel. First wash the aluminum to get off all grease and
oil. Then mix the etchinbg solution according to instructions, brush on and
let sit for a couple of minutes, then wash with plenty of water. This takes
off all the oxide. Dry thoroughly and prime as soon as you are convinced
it is dry. Oxide will begin to form on the exposed aluminum immediately.
Do the color coat while the primer is slightly tacky to get the best
adhesion with the least effort. Plan it for a time when you can do the
whole process without interruption and you should be happy with the
results. I was.
P.S. Mask the ends. Otherwise you will need quite a bit of sanding to get
them into the steel rings of the fuselage and tail assembly.
***********************************************
* Bill Weber * Keep *
* MICOM Communications Corp. * the shiny *
* Simi Valley, CA * side up *
***********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeff Stripling <jstripli(at)io.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb listing |
>
> Is there a new location for the Kolb group archive? The last address I
> had was at:
>
> www.intrig.com/ kolb / list /
After talking with the local admin, it appears that the html
versions of the archives have been deleted.
I still have the archives, but there is not currently an online
version.
I'll try to fix this problem this weekend or in the next week
or two.
--
Jeff R. Stripling
jstripli(at)io.com
(512) 252-3053
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
In this months issue of the experimenter, the beautiful bi-plane on the cover
has a vertical compass he built from an automotive vertical compass he
purchased though the J.C Whitney catalog. He said there was an older article
about making one from their automotive unit where he got the idea .Does
anybody have this article or remember it. I thought for 30.00 from JC Whitney
I might give it a try.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cal <cgreen(at)centuryinter.net> |
Well my covering progect is rolling again, I went back to
the hardware store, which by the way is Ace hardware and found
a nice lady who was willing to help, she paged threw a catolog
until she found the MEK, and they had it the next day. Thanks
for the help.
John Jung did you use the milwaukee FSDO for the inspection
on your firestar? If so did you have to wait very long? I
talked to them today and they weren't very busy with
inspections right now. so you have two firestars, I'm about
80% done with my FS and I'm already thinking about the next
one I want to build. It's about as much fun building them as
it is flying them.
cal
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wharris11(at)juno.com (William L Harris) |
How does one get removed from this list?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ron Hoyt <RONALD.R.HOYT(at)cdev.com> |
>Hi Ron,
>I see that Bill Weber says it is acidic.
>I think i have some still and will check tonight what it is.
>-Ben
>
Ben
Thanks for the response
I was wondering if these were two viable but different processes.
What I was looking for appears to be the product Richard Pike identified.
The Hard coating is really a chromate process known as Alodine. The prep
is some form of degreasing and oxide removal. I expect the automotive
stores have some form of the processes if I can discover their nomenclature.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Henry C. Wortman" <hwortman(at)datasys.net> |
Subject: | Firefly vs Firestar |
To all who responded to the question of Firefly vs Firestar. I
appreciate each and every comment. We are in the process of attending
some EAA meetings in our area and will take our time and take one step
at the time.
Thanks again: Henry Wortman - Quitman, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | Civility on this list. |
To all,
I hope there will not be anyone responding to this message because it is not
directed toward anyone, but to all of us. I'm sensitive. Nobody better
yell at me about this.
I confess!!! I did it!!! I could not help but tinker with my Kolb kit.
Hang me by my toes! Draw and quarter me! Would I do it again. YES!!!!! I
copied some things I saw I liked and I did some of my own. It was my desire
to put my individual "mark" on it... and in my opinion... make it better.
And I'll be darned, it flies very well indeed.
With few exceptions everyone on this list has been respectful of people who
are willing to post messages, and when they have disagreed about a
modification, idea or whatever, they tried to give specific reasons or
suggestions in a manner so as not to "put the other guy down". No one is an
idiot, or stupid, dumb or anything else like that. To suggest that is to
suppress people from wanting to participate. I want to hear from EVERYone
about ANYthing concerning Kolbs or any other associated subjects. Having
said that, we can all decide for ourselves whether we think it is a good
idea. If I feel strongly about something, I respond with my concerns in as
diplomatic a way as possible - many times directly to that person and
sometimes to the list in general if I think it could be interest to all.
Nothing posted on the list is proposed or even expected to be the truth, the
right way, the best way, or the only way. Some of us are "experts" in some
fields and the knowledge those people offer on specific subjects should be
and are valued by those of us who are not. Most of us are just ordinary
people from varied walks of life who may be only interested guys, builders,
pilots - you name it.
We should not be afraid to express our fears, our successes, our doubts, our
Kolb flying experiences, or our ideas on how we think we could improve our
project, fly better, care for our engine... and on and on.
This list so far has been a FINE exception to many of the lists I have read
on the internet. I hope we can keep it a place where a person can post a
message without fear of being "cut to pieces", yet also a place where
constructive criticism can be offered diplomatically.
In a nutshell, let's be "civil" with each other.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (11.4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Neilsen <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
Subject: | vertical compas -Reply |
A few years ago I found the article you were talking
about. The article describes taking the display unit
apart and putting the functional parts in a standard 3"
aircraft instrument housing. He had a friend that made
a professional looking aluminum compass card which
he pasted over the supplied card which had only N, S,
E, W on it. The article called it a poor man's DG, but
its not its just an electronic vertical card compass.
I purchased one of the J C Whitney units and chose
to use the existing housing. I then used a CAD
package to print out a compass card on paper app 2"
dia. I pasted this card over the original compass card
and put it all back together. It works but I'm not real
happy with the way it looks. I have a aircraft compass
installed and a mini HSI in my G.P.S. so I don't think I
will install it in my MKIII.
>>> 08/13/97 06:50pm >>>
In this months issue of the experimenter, the beautiful
bi-plane on the cover
has a vertical compass he built from an automotive
vertical compass he
purchased though the J.C Whitney catalog. He said
there was an older article
about making one from their automotive unit where he
got the idea .Does
anybody have this article or remember it. I thought for
30.00 from JC Whitney
I might give it a try.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Thanks- 1st start... |
Thanks to all who responded to my request for first start advice. I'm
going to attempt it tomorrow if I can make enough room in my after-hours
work schedule. The procedure varied only slightly from person to person,
so it should work fine.
Unless something goes tragically wrong with the engine running, I should be
on schedule to fly by mid-September.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ron Hoyt <RONALD.R.HOYT(at)cdev.com> |
To All
Here is what I found.
The local auto store deals with PPG paint systems. They had a number of
products for finishing Al. They were also able to give me directions for
the finishing processes. The products they sold are:
1. Wax and grease remover DX440 or 330 @$10.23
2. Etch and brighter-ALUMIPREP 33 DX533 @$15.35; Dilute 1 to 3 with
water
C&C.S. This is less aggressive than sanding or scotchbright on a boom
tube. This is
applied with a brush.
3. Water rinse
4. Treat with ALODINE 1201 or 1001 DX503 or DX501 @$16.50
The 1201 (DX503) leaves a gold stain on the al. and is a hard chromate
finish
specifically for corrosion protection and primer bonding.
The 1001 (DX501) leaves a bright al. color finish and is a hard chromate
finish
which may be topcoated to preserve the color. It also provides corrosion
protection.
5. Dry the article
6. paint the article with an epoxy primer when ready or topcoat.
The ALODINE is environmentally safe but toxic. Their recommendations warn
about splashing product in your eyes and skin contact. The product is used
as a dip or may be painted on the article and needs washing to remove the
unreacted ALODINE.
This is the al. finish which folks a Oshkosh were recommending. This
included the Stitz Polytech people.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Fri, 15 Aug 1997, Ron Hoyt wrote:
>
> Here is what I found.
>
> The local auto store deals with PPG paint systems. They had a number of
> products for finishing Al. They were also able to give me directions for
IMHO the Alodine may be better, but is not necessary. I used the
Alumiprep 33 on mine and it was very very simple, and the epoxy
primer stuck perfectly fine after that treatment.
If you go the extra mile with Alodine, it seems it would only make sense
(to me) if you also did the INSIDE of the tube with Alumiprep and Alodine
as well. This might even be easy ...simply close both ends and slosh the
treatments around inside. This sounds good if you live near the ocean
or operate on floats. Then you gotta start wondering if you should also
do the rest of the frame ...it never ends. :-/
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Hi everybody,
I scanned in a few more pics of some good flying this summer.
I've fussed a lot trying to get less grainy images, but have
at last figured out it has more to do with what I'm
viewing them with, than how I've scanned the images. Hope
they are okay on your browser. They are better looking at
the real prints, and best yet in person from my cockpit. :-)
Anyway, the new stuff is at
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/1997/1997.html
starting at the "August Update" heading
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
edu>
>Hi everybody,
>I scanned in a few more pics of some good flying this summer.
>I've fussed a lot trying to get less grainy images, but have
>at last figured out it has more to do with what I'm
>viewing them with, than how I've scanned the images. Hope
>they are okay on your browser. They are better looking at
>the real prints, and best yet in person from my cockpit. :-)
>
Nice pics, Ben! Very enjoyable. :-)
I noticed that you seem to land "off field" quite a bit, for fuel, food,
etc. How do you size up a potential landing spot? I'd be afraid to land
anywhere that I haven't checked out first (except for an emergency, of course,
then I'll take any reasonably flat place.). :-)
Maybe your tires give you more options than I have; I seem to recall that
you have larger than stock tires; what size are yours? Mine are 6.00-4 (or
is it 4.00-6? I can never remember), which is larger than stock, but still
nowhere near "tundra" proportions.
I have yet to take any shots from the FireFly; I'm going to have to
try it soon. Just have to have a good strong rope attached to
the camera. :-) I did try to hook a video camera up underneath, but it
moved around too much. I think I might try mounting it up over my shoulder
next...
Anyway, thanks for the note about the pictures; a lot of fun to look at,
as I'm sure they were a lot of fun to take! :-)
-Jon-
.--- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Break-in success |
Hi again,
Well, the engine run is a success. Of course I figured out the practical
joke you guys played on me. You know, the one about starting in the first
few pulls. I bet I pulled on that rope at least 15 times in the 95 degree
90% humidity afternoon. Hopefully, this was just a first time start kind
of problem. (Dennis, see if you can have an electric starter for a 503 in
stock when I come up there, I may need one).
While the actual running of the engine was flawless during it's 63 minute
break-in, there were a few problems.
1- The hard starting (or wimpy starter)
2- EGT-1 stopped reading on the EIS about 1/3 of the way through the run.
Since I had been able to watch both EGT's reading the same prior to that, I
continued the run. The highest EGT reading was during the early part where
you run around the 3.5k to 4k rpm range. This got as high as about 1160.
Later I found a marginally bad connection on the EGT probes (factory
crimped) lugs. The other EGT lugs had pulled off when I first started
hooking it up so they were re-done. These looked ok but I guess I didn't
look closely enough at them. I won't really know if this takes care of it
until the next engine run which won't be until the plane is at the airport.
3- I should have either put less anti-seize on the muffler joints, or
painted the plane silver. Now my white paint has silver splotches on it.
Fortunately, I drive a company car, so those splotches don't bother me :-)
4- The EIS only reads 6-9v over the range of engine rpm. I hooked a
battery to the EIS later and found that it correctly reads it at 13.1.
Next, I hooked up a wall-wart type 12v charger and it reads as 11.2 on the
EIS, and 12.1 on a meter. I believe the EIS doesn't count the humps of
the rectified ac waveform. No doubt the Rotax regulator is supplying
pretty dirty power. Everything on the EIS seemed to work fine though, but
I can't remember seeing the warning light at any time. It's possible that
I just never saw it since I was so focused on the instrument and the
whirring bits of propeller behind me. Fortunately, my assistant was able
to keep the curious neighbors out of the prop. If anyone has a Rotax
regulator, no battery, and an EIS, I'd be curious to know what you read for
voltage.
5- Filling the fuel tanks was a pain using a siphon. I'll have to come up
with some kind of pump, and/or make a remote fuel filler for the tanks.
Scott, wasn't that you that did this? How's it working out?
On the positive side, my prop guess was right on. I had set the IVO
(2-blade, 66") to just slightly more coarse than the relaxed point. This
gives me a static RPM of 6200-6300 rpm which is just what Dennis guessed it
should be. At full throttle, the power seems to be impressive. I really
didn't expect to see that much pull on the tie-down.
General temps from the run:
At 5000 rpm
EGT= 1050
CHT= 330
At full throttle:
EGT= 1050
CHT= 430
A question- What's the idle rpm supposed to be? Mine is at 2250 and quite
smooth. The manual says "2000 minimum" then goes on to mention that too
high is bad and causes hard starting. Something doesn't seem to have
translated correctly.
Well, enough of this boring stuff. It's almost time to fly :-)
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
Steiger) writes:
<< .--- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/
---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL
|
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019)
|
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
>>
Jon, I love your letters but the mystery buried in your salutations must be
worth several in depth treatises also. About the only one I can relate to is
the EAA# and the USUA #. Is DoD Dept. of Defense? I don't see your
dobedobedoo # !! So this is the definition of progress, and a representation
of what defines us in 1997. :-)
GeoR38
USUA #A299 , EAA #313251 ,
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Break-in success |
<< The EIS only reads 6-9v over the range of engine rpm. I hooked a
battery to the EIS later and found that it correctly reads it at 13.1.
Next, I hooked up a wall-wart type 12v charger and it reads as 11.2 on the
EIS, and 12.1 on a meter. I believe the EIS doesn't count the humps of
the rectified ac waveform. No doubt the Rotax regulator is supplying
pretty dirty power. >>
Russell, I,m thinking about getting a regulator for my Firestar, and am
wondering what kind of regulator Rotax makes, sinking or switching. The new
switching regulators work so much cooler and efficiently, but I haven't done
any homework yet to know what's out there for ULs.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Break-in success |
<< The EIS only reads 6-9v over the range of engine rpm. I hooked a
battery to the EIS later and found that it correctly reads it at 13.1.
Next, I hooked up a wall-wart type 12v charger and it reads as 11.2 on the
EIS, and 12.1 on a meter. I believe the EIS doesn't count the humps of
the rectified ac waveform. No doubt the Rotax regulator is supplying
pretty dirty power. >>
Russell, I,m thinking about getting a regulator for my Firestar, and am
wondering what kind of regulator Rotax makes, sinking or switching. The new
switching regulators work so much cooler and efficiently, but I haven't done
any homework yet to know what's out there for ULs.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
I agree we should be civil on this list. I do not see when we were uncivil
to the guy who made the alterations to his mk3. He made several changes and
we wondered about the reasoning. Has there been a problem with torsional
stability with Kolb single strut wings that led him to add the extra metal?
I hadn't heard of any but he states it is a major problem with single strut
wings. Is there a problem with the trailing edges that require a stronger
trailing edge? Have there been problems with the other parts that required
him to beef them up?He piqued our collective curiosities with all his
improvements and we must wonder if the rest of us have serious defects in
our craft.Lets not make improvements where there are no defects.Don't over
complicate things.Landing does not require use of all hand controls at the
same time.Set the flaps,set the throttle for your glide path and then steer
with stick and rudder. Once on the ground close throttle if you haven't done
so allready and you are done. No major feats of dexterity here under normal
conditions.Adding a second throttle to the right side of the cockpit is a
lot easier than designing a new control system if you are still fearfull of
crossing your arm over your body in flight.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
Nicely said. DB
----------
> From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: be civil
> Date: Sunday, August 17, 1997 8:00 AM
>
> I agree we should be civil on this list. I do not see when we were
uncivil
> to the guy who made the alterations to his mk3. He made several changes
and
> we wondered about the reasoning. Has there been a problem with torsional
> stability with Kolb single strut wings that led him to add the extra
metal?
> I hadn't heard of any but he states it is a major problem with single
strut
> wings. Is there a problem with the trailing edges that require a stronger
> trailing edge? Have there been problems with the other parts that
required
> him to beef them up?He piqued our collective curiosities with all his
> improvements and we must wonder if the rest of us have serious defects in
> our craft.Lets not make improvements where there are no defects.Don't
over
> complicate things.Landing does not require use of all hand controls at
the
> same time.Set the flaps,set the throttle for your glide path and then
steer
> with stick and rudder. Once on the ground close throttle if you haven't
done
> so allready and you are done. No major feats of dexterity here under
normal
> conditions.Adding a second throttle to the right side of the cockpit is a
> lot easier than designing a new control system if you are still fearfull
of
> crossing your arm over your body in flight.
> Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Subject: | Re: Break-in success |
>
>A question- What's the idle rpm supposed to be? Mine is at 2250 and quite
>smooth. The manual says "2000 minimum" then goes on to mention that too
>high is bad and causes hard starting. Something doesn't seem to have
>translated correctly.
>
>Russell Duffy
>SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
>rad(at)pen.net
>http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
The choke system is actually an enrichner circuit, and it depends on
intake vacuum to draw the extra fuel in. If the throttle slide idle setting
is too high, it has trouble pulling any fuel through the choke circuit.
Probably the same is true of the idle/intermediate fuel circuit. Too much
slide opening (idle set too high), and there is probably not enough vacuum
when hand cranking to pull the fuel into the throat. That is also why you
initially crank the engine with the throttle closed and the choke open.
Otherwise the choke circuit won't work. Once the engine is running, then if
you pull the choke lever, the engine draws in extra fuel and richens up.
This is what makes a choke circuit useful to see if your engine is jetted
correctly at any given RPM. Pull the choke and if the engine runs better, it
was too lean. If it was already running poor and runs worse, it was too
rich. If it was running good and richens up a bit, it was real close to just
right.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | 149043ss(at)student.eur.nl |
is there anybody who can tell me how to get
INFORMATION and/or CONSTRUCTION PLANS on any kind of
1 or 2 person FLYING PLATFORM?
i know they're possible,
i know they exist, they're even being built as we speak,
but i just can't seem to find any other info on it than that
.
useful reply highly appreciated, please send E-MAIL to:
Sidney Sakko, e-mail adress: 149043ss(at)student.eur.nl
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | web page correction/dedication |
I've been remiss in not crediting Rusty for inspiring
me to fly over to the coast. I've attempted to correct
this oversight with a slight mod to the following page:
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/1997/addaug/tomalesA.html
Okay Rusty, does that cut it for you? :-)
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Harty <jwharty(at)webmart.net> |
Subject: | Re: flying platform |
149043ss(at)student.eur.nl wrote:
>
> is there anybody who can tell me how to get
> INFORMATION and/or CONSTRUCTION PLANS on any kind of
> 1 or 2 person FLYING PLATFORM?
> i know they're possible,
> i know they exist, they're even being built as we speak,
> but i just can't seem to find any other info on it than that
> .
> useful reply highly appreciated, please send E-MAIL to:
> Sidney Sakko, e-mail adress: 149043ss(at)student.eur.nl
In the Aerocrafter sourcebook on page 341, there is a picture of the
most astable, dangerous looking "flying" contraption I have ever seen
and it is labelled a "flying platform." It is being developed by:
PAM Group
PO Box 80
Williamsburg VA 23187 (USA)
Ph. 804/229-0367
Fax # is the same as the phone number.
No URL or email is listed.
Personally, I think anyone who would get on such a machine as what is
pictured is out of their gourd. 'Course, there are those who say that
about ULs, too. God help you and don't hold me responsible if you break
your necks! ;-)
--
************************************************************
* * *
* John W. Harty, EE (UMR '92) * EAA# 549251 *
* e-mail: jwharty(at)webmart.net * Fly Low, Fly Light! *
* * *
************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello,
My partner and I just ordered a Mklll with the 912 engine, with the quick
build kit. My name is Rich Bragassa and my partner is Ken Jones. I'm new to
the web.....so take it easy on me.
Thanks go out to John Yates, Jeff Stripling, Russell Duffy, and great
pictures from Ben Ransom. I've just learned about this server, and am very
greatful to all, and hope to meet more Kolb owners! We live in Miami, Fl.
where it's flying time all year long. General aviation has become out of
reach for most of all my friends, so the Kolb looks like the future.
So far Ken just comes over to my home, and we sit in lawn chairs in my shop
and make airplane noises. I started to suffer from AIDS (aircraft induced
divorce syndrome), but I think my wife is over the initial shock.
Thanks for the support,
Rich Bragassa
lrb1476(at)aol.com
Miami, Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
Subject: | Re: flying platform |
>
>is there anybody who can tell me how to get
>INFORMATION and/or CONSTRUCTION PLANS on any kind of
>1 or 2 person FLYING PLATFORM?
> i know they're possible,
>i know they exist, they're even being built as we speak,
>but i just can't seem to find any other info on it than that
>.
> useful reply highly appreciated, please send E-MAIL to:
>Sidney Sakko, e-mail adress: 149043ss(at)student.eur.nl
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
> (__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
> (oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
> /-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
> / | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
>* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
> ^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
>Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
>
>Check out www.1second.com/Tecknico.htm. You wont believe what they offer.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: web page correction/dedication |
> I've been remiss in not crediting Rusty for inspiring
> me to fly over to the coast. I've attempted to correct
> this oversight with a slight mod to the following page:
>
> http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/1997/addaug/tomalesA.html
>
> Okay Rusty, does that cut it for you? :-)
> -Ben
That's Great!!! All is forgiven. I was actually worried that you were
still blaming me for the engine starting problems. For the record, that's
not my fault- I never requested a landing, just a flight :-)
Ben, you'll get your picture soon enough. The time for flight is drawing
near....
Thanks,
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Subject: | Re: flying platform |
>
>is there anybody who can tell me how to get
>INFORMATION and/or CONSTRUCTION PLANS on any kind of
>1 or 2 person FLYING PLATFORM?
> i know they're possible,
>i know they exist, they're even being built as we speak,
>but i just can't seem to find any other info on it than that
>.
> useful reply highly appreciated, please send E-MAIL to:
>Sidney Sakko, e-mail adress: 149043ss(at)student.eur.nl
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
> (__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
> (oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
> /-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
> / | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
>* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
> ^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
>Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
>
The designer/builder of such a device had it at our Last Annual
Mountain City Fly-In last October. His name is R.J.Pegg and if you would
like to correspond with him, his address is:
R.J.PEGG(at)LaRC.NASA.GOV
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Subject: | Re: Hand held radios |
>Hi Mr. Pike
>
>Can you tell the difference if a pilot is using a handheld radio or a panel
>mounted radio when they are communicating to you? I understand the handhelds
>put out less watts.
>
>Thanks
>Will Uribe
>http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
>
The biggest difference is if it is hooked to an outside antenna and
the pilot is using a headset. If it is using the rubber duck, and the pilot
is speaking into the front of it, it is pretty wimpy. The big gain in power
comes when the pilot says he is spliced into the normal com antenna. The big
gain in clarity comes when he says that a headset is being used. At this
point, a handheld is quite good. (all other things being equal)
Richard Pike
TRI approach control
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Howard G. Penny" <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se> |
I had a rather nice weekend last weekend. I decided to fly to Philadelphia
for a day just because it was close to Kolb Aircraft. I was glad this was
the reason because the locals I met said that would be the only reason they
had heard of that made sense to go there. The landscape was hilly and
green around Phoenixville(very pretty). I picked up a replacement right
inboard wing rib for the SlingShot and got to look at the original. They
have a nice large hanger with all kinds of Kolb history hanging from the
ceiling. Unfortunately they weren't flying because it was too "windy".
Although it was not pleasant, I have flown in worse conditions in my old
Sunburst and yet very controllable. Yes, at one time I had a Massey death
trap. My question to all flying is: Have I embarked on a project that is
only pleasant to fly when the Eiper sailcloth crowd go up?
Rusty, I answered my own question about the claustrophobic index of the
back seat. For my girlfriend, 8.5. For me, about a 5. If it weren't for
the openings in the rear windows these figures would be at least 1 point
higher. I imagine that it will be about a 2 for my children. I noticed
that the vertical fin leading edge attach bracket was adjustable. Have you
done any thing like that? I also noticed that with the 912 it was set
slightly left of center (looking forward from the rear).
Over all it was a motivating experience. Unfortunately I have committed
myself to help a friend with a screened-in porch for the next 5 days. But
when that's over.......
Later All.
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/hpenny
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank & Winnie Hodson <fwhodson(at)megalink.net> |
Subject: | Kolb factory support |
My hat is off to the folks at Kolb Aircraft!
Not only do they deliver a great kit with quality materials and
relatively easy to understand instructions; their support of the builder
is fantastic!
After talking with Dennis and others on his staff, They are:
-sending new material for the wingtip that I folded during
construction.
-sending additional rivits for the ones I had to drill out or lost.
-sending a replacement wing spar, without asking for a check,
pending the shippers settlement of a damage claim.
It all adds up to a more enjoyable building experience; I am really
having a great time with my FS II.
Frank Hodson, Oxford ME
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: Trip to KOLB |
> My question to all flying is: Have I embarked on a project that is
> only pleasant to fly when the Eiper sailcloth crowd go up?
I've been worried about this ever since I started the project. Since I'm a
weekend GA type pilot, I know to expect a lot rougher ride in the SlingShot
than what I'm used to. I fear that the summer turbulence will be brutal to
the point that it might make flying unpleasant. Only time will tell
really, but one of the reasons I picked the SS is the higher than normal
(for it's class) wing loading. Turbulence is also the main reason I
installed a BRS. I know the SlingShot is very, very strong, but until I
get some time in it, I would worry about those big bumps. Hopefully, it
won't be as bad as I fear.
> Rusty, I answered my own question about the claustrophobic index of the
> back seat. For my girlfriend, 8.5. For me, about a 5. If it weren't
for
> the openings in the rear windows these figures would be at least 1 point
> higher. I imagine that it will be about a 2 for my children. I noticed
Those numbers sound about right to me. Unfortunately, I just added some
Lexan (polycarbonate sheet for Mr. Picky ) that encroaches on the rear
seat prisoner's headroom. It seems like everything I do takes away a bit
of usability of that seat. I really plan to treat the plane as a single
seat, with room to hold some stuff. I'll probably take a couple people for
very short rides eventually, but I expect the victims won't be in the mood
for much more than that. When I go to Kolb in a couple weeks, Dennis said
he'd take me up in the factory SS. I'm really looking forward to that.
Maybe he'll take my wife up so she can get all the barfing out of her
system. BTW, I don't mean to dog the rear seat too much. It's not
intended for full time use, and as such, is just fine like it is. I
personally don't have any problem with taking a short ride back there.
> that the vertical fin leading edge attach bracket was adjustable. Have
you
> done any thing like that? I also noticed that with the 912 it was set
> slightly left of center (looking forward from the rear).
I didn't make the bracket adjustable, though I've heard of others doing
this. I just put mine in the center the way the plans showed it. As for
the off-center 912. I'm sure mounting was a challenge. I think Dennis had
to use 2 shoehorns to squeeze it in, maybe one was bigger than the other
:-)
Rusty (more Lexan between me and flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Trip to KOLB |
<< My question to all flying is: Have I embarked on a project that is
> only pleasant to fly when the Eiper sailcloth crowd go up? >>
I was very impressed with the way my mark 2 handled cross winds and gusts.
In my view the limiting factor that kept the original ultrlights on the
ground in all but the calmest winds was control authority. I was bounced all
around on some windy days in the mark 2 but it had enough control authority
from the big alierons. I landed once in a 18 knot cross wind gusting to 25.
I was flinging the stick all around and dancing on the pedals but I got the
plane on the ground ok. The Tomahawk I used to fly had a maximum croswind
component of 17 knots. I thought the kolb was at least as good as that.
You are never going to get away from the fact the the plane is light
and has a fairly light wing loading. You will be bounced around in
turbulence, but if you don't mind that the control surfaces are more than
adequate to keep the plane going where you want it to.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Howard G. Penny" <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se> |
Rusty, I have changes in my web pages and your link to my page should now
be http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/hpenny/Kolbfram.htm if you want
to go directly to my Kolb page.
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/hpenny
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Trip to KOLB |
> << My question to all flying is: Have I embarked on a project that is
> > only pleasant to fly when the Eiper sailcloth crowd go up? >>
>
> I was very impressed with the way my mark 2 handled cross winds and gusts.
> In my view the limiting factor that kept the original ultrlights on the
> ground in all but the calmest winds was control authority. I was bounced all
> around on some windy days in the mark 2 but it had enough control authority
> from the big alierons. I landed once in a 18 knot cross wind gusting to 25.
> I was flinging the stick all around and dancing on the pedals but I got the
> plane on the ground ok. The Tomahawk I used to fly had a maximum croswind
> component of 17 knots. I thought the kolb was at least as good as that.
>
> You are never going to get away from the fact the the plane is light
> and has a fairly light wing loading. You will be bounced around in
> turbulence, but if you don't mind that the control surfaces are more than
> adequate to keep the plane going where you want it to.
>
This characterization sounds good to me too. The prime factor in bounce
comfort is wing loading (and speed). We are not as lightly loaded
as Quicksilvers, but not as heavily loaded as most GA. Normal summer days
around my area are bumpy, but its not a big deal. I would acknowledge
that on rare, really bumpy or windy days, it gets to be more work
than fun, and that maybe fits with the "windy" or "unpleasant" day at
Phoenixville you mentioned. Keep in mind, light wing loading (+power)
is also what allows us to land on a dime and climb out leaving others
in semi-stunned mode -- often just plain *stunned*, still smiling and
shaking their heads. :-)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Mark 3 with passenger |
Recently flew my 503 powered Mark 3 with passenger for the first time.
Bummer! With a gross of 800 Lbs and weight and balance at max forward she
was so nose heavy I had to hold the stick wa-a-a-y back and there was no
margin for error that I always enjoyed when flying single. I was not
prepared for this revelation. Didn't use flaps because I didn't want to
risk any safety margin I had. Be careful out there ! ! Comments??
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Markiii with passenger... |
I have not flown my Mkiii yet, so keep that in mind as you read this, BUT,
It is 582 powered, and even when I plug 460 pounds worth of people in the
two seats (in my weight and balance spreadsheet, theoretical people), I cannot
get the CG to move forward of the 24% of wing cord point. In my manual it says
that allowable range is 20% to 37%. When flying solo I am right at the 37%
(aft limit). I can't see how changing to a 503 engine could shift things
that much that you are at the front limit with two people, but maybe. I will
have to look up the weight of the 503 vs the 582 (recoil start even, no bat.)
To the gentleman who wrote he was nose-heavy with a passenger: I would like
to speak with you and compare notes if you wish. Please append your phone
number if you are willing to talk. I won't have any advice for you (you have
Dennis for that) but since my mkiii seems to be loaded the opposite of yours
it would be interesting to compare notes. Thanks. Jim 507 753 2619
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I have a flying buddy and he and I were talking. He has another buddy who
recently finished his Firestar 2 also (we both also have 503 powered Firestar
2's) He said his bud said he was getting a 2 gallon an hour fuel burn at
cruise.
I told him no way, thats too low. Tonight I flew, and held the power close to
5000rpm (which is 300 more RPM than I usually fly) and I also got just a tad
bit over 2 gallons an hour burn. I am amazed. This is a 503 dual carb with 3
blade Ivo prop. What is everyone else getting.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Does anybody have a source for wheel pants for the 15x6x6 wheels and tires we
use on the Kolbs. I live in Louisiana and it rains a lot, and every time I
fly to my friends grass strips I have to clean a lot of mud from my plane. I
am just toying with the wheel pants idea.
Would appreciate the names of some suppliers and phone numbers.
thanks tim loehrke
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
> 5000rpm (which is 300 more RPM than I usually fly) and I also got just a
tad
Can't help with the fuel burn question, but now I'm wondering what rpm most
people cruise at. I was under the impression that you would normally run
in the mid to upper 5 thousand range. I don't really know what made me
think that though. What is the "normal" cruise rpm?
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Mark 3 with passenger |
From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
Mitch
I have a M III / with a 582 and last sunday I took my first
passenger up . the only thing that I will have to do is maybe adjust
the right ail. or maybe put a very small trim tab on it.
With 10 gal. of gas and 190 lb / an 160 passenger the M III
WOULD FLY HANDS OFF ( just a couple of onces of left pressure on
could get more than that , Hope that you can iron out the trouble . I
have friends around the state with M III and they like I are not having
the nose heavy trouble. I'LL be glad to help or exchange idea's . To
get you in the air with two on board.
Rick Libersat N106RL
>Recently flew my 503 powered Mark 3 with passenger for the first time.
> Bummer! With a gross of 800 Lbs and weight and balance at max
>forward she
>was so nose heavy I had to hold the stick wa-a-a-y back and there was
>no
>margin for error that I always enjoyed when flying single. I was not
>prepared for this revelation. Didn't use flaps because I didn't want
>to
>risk any safety margin I had. Be careful out there ! !
>Comments??
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kolb factory support |
From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
Frank
I know just what you mean, While I was building my M III each and
EVERY time I had to make A call to Dennis, Dan, Bill , you could not ask
for better service, And Barbra, would track them down if you could not
get one of them on the phone . As far as shipping goes I never had any
problems. Frank I called KOLB on monday in the P.M. I placed an
order " DAN" took the call as the KOLB company was loading up to go to
OSK. . On friday OF THE SAME WEEK I had my order on my front door
stepps
That is what I call service . I dont belive you will have any trouble
with the staff or their service
Rick Libersat
writes:
>My hat is off to the folks at Kolb Aircraft!
>
>Not only do they deliver a great kit with quality materials and
>relatively easy to understand instructions; their support of the
>builder
>is fantastic!
>
>After talking with Dennis and others on his staff, They are:
> -sending new material for the wingtip that I folded during
>construction.
> -sending additional rivits for the ones I had to drill out or
>lost.
> -sending a replacement wing spar, without asking for a check,
>pending the shippers settlement of a damage claim.
>
>It all adds up to a more enjoyable building experience; I am really
>having a great time with my FS II.
>
> Frank Hodson, Oxford ME
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
RUSTY
I CRUISE AT 5 / 55 K AND HAVE A FUEL BURN OF 2.75 / 3 GAL. DEPENDING
ON THE WIND
RICK LIBERSAT
>> 5000rpm (which is 300 more RPM than I usually fly) and I also got
>just a
>tad
>
>Can't help with the fuel burn question, but now I'm wondering what rpm
>most
>people cruise at. I was under the impression that you would normally
>run
>in the mid to upper 5 thousand range. I don't really know what made
>me
>think that though. What is the "normal" cruise rpm?
>
>Rusty
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Patriquin" <gpatriqu(at)direct.ca> |
protocol="application/x-pkcs7-signature";
micalg=sha1
Depending on the wind????? How does the wind affect endurance??
(gals/hour) Please advise us all.
Garp
-----Original Message-----
From: RICK M LIBERSAT <rick106(at)juno.com>
Date: Wednesday, 20 August, 1997 9:10 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: fuel burn
>RUSTY
> I CRUISE AT 5 / 55 K AND HAVE A FUEL BURN OF 2.75 / 3 GAL. DEPENDING
>ON THE WIND
> RICK LIBERSAT
>>> 5000rpm (which is 300 more RPM than I usually fly) and I also got
>>just a
>>tad
>>
>>Can't help with the fuel burn question, but now I'm wondering what rpm
>>most
>>people cruise at. I was under the impression that you would normally
>>run
>>in the mid to upper 5 thousand range. I don't really know what made
>>me
>>think that though. What is the "normal" cruise rpm?
>>
>>Rusty
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mark 3 with passenger |
>Recently flew my 503 powered Mark 3 with passenger for the first time.
> Bummer! With a gross of 800 Lbs and weight and balance at max forward she
>was so nose heavy I had to hold the stick wa-a-a-y back and there was no
>margin for error that I always enjoyed when flying single. I was not
>prepared for this revelation. Didn't use flaps because I didn't want to
>risk any safety margin I had. Be careful out there ! ! Comments??
>
Try rigging your airplane so that solo it takes full forward
position on the trim lever(You do have a trim lever?) at 50-55 mph to fly
hands off. I weigh
190, carrying a passenger it takes the trim lever at 50% for a 60 pound kid,
75% back on the trim for a 160 pound adult, and full back on the trim for
someone over 210, and if they are over 200, you want to fly at about 55-60.
Remember, if the lower surface of the flaps or ailerons are not parallel to
the lower surface of the wing in flight but droop down, the airplane acts
nose heavy. If the lower surface of the flaps and ailerons are reflexed up a
bit from the lower surface of the wing, the airplane acts tail heavy. This
is a good way to fine tune the trim. Mine ended up with both ailerons
parallel to the wing and also the right flap, and the left flap is drooped
about 3/8" to help hold the left wing up. There is also an adjustable Lexan
trim tab on the tip of the right aileron. It is lowered for solo (raises the
aileron, holds the right wing down), and in trail for dual. Fiddle with it,
it gets better with intelligent monkeying around.
Landing with 15 degrees of flaps and a passenger is not bad. So far
I only use full flaps landing solo. Maybe after another year or two of
practice...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>Does anybody have a source for wheel pants for the 15x6x6 wheels and tires we
>use on the Kolbs. I live in Louisiana and it rains a lot, and every time I
>fly to my friends grass strips I have to clean a lot of mud from my plane. I
>am just toying with the wheel pants idea.
>Would appreciate the names of some suppliers and phone numbers.
>thanks tim loehrke
>
California Power Systems 1-800-AIRWOLF
They have three sizes, get the biggest.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
Subject: | Kolb Ultrastar for sale |
In case anyone is interested, there is an Ultrastar for sale ($3500) at the
airport that I fly out of in western New York.
More details at:
http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/WWW/ULTRA/class_USA_Aug.html
-Jon-
.--- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
>Can't help with the fuel burn question, but now I'm wondering what rpm most
>people cruise at. I was under the impression that you would normally run
>in the mid to upper 5 thousand range. I don't really know what made me
>think that though. What is the "normal" cruise rpm?
>Rusty
I have a 377 Firestar and I cruse at 4900 at 55 mph and 2.3 gallons per
hour. I would be surprised if a 503 could do better.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb factory support |
I have heard praise from other Kolb builders also, but my experience
with
the company has not been in line with these comments.
Buyer beware.
John Jung
RICK M LIBERSAT wrote:
>
> Frank
>
> I know just what you mean, While I was building my M III each and
> EVERY time I had to make A call to Dennis, Dan, Bill , you could not ask
> for better service, And Barbra, would track them down if you could not
> get one of them on the phone . As far as shipping goes I never had any
> problems. Frank I called KOLB on monday in the P.M. I placed an
> order " DAN" took the call as the KOLB company was loading up to go to
> OSK. . On friday OF THE SAME WEEK I had my order on my front door
> stepps
> That is what I call service . I dont belive you will have any trouble
> with the staff or their service
> Rick Libersat
>
> writes:
> >My hat is off to the folks at Kolb Aircraft!
> >
> >Not only do they deliver a great kit with quality materials and
> >relatively easy to understand instructions; their support of the
> >builder
> >is fantastic!
> >
> >After talking with Dennis and others on his staff, They are:
> > -sending new material for the wingtip that I folded during
> >construction.
> > -sending additional rivits for the ones I had to drill out or
> >lost.
> > -sending a replacement wing spar, without asking for a check,
> >pending the shippers settlement of a damage claim.
> >
> >It all adds up to a more enjoyable building experience; I am really
> >having a great time with my FS II.
> >
> > Frank Hodson, Oxford ME
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
Subject: | For Sale: Kolb FF2, 503dcdi, 2-blade IVO |
Kolb Firestar 2, quick build, brakes, 2 prop IVO, 2 tanks, extra
ribs installed, streamline struts, factory seats and carpet, oil
injection, EIS. Perfect 10 inside and out. Insignia white. Powder coated.
IA inspected, but but registered. 2nd seat available. Short fairing. 22
hours tt. I paid $14,000.
Flies beautifully. Must convert to cash. Any reasonable offer considered.
Location: Rehoboth Beach DE. Bruce 302 684 4401 or bruce(at)schimmel.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marino, Frank J (Youngstown ARB)" <Frank.Marino(at)yng.afres.af.mil> |
Does any one know of some one who built a Mark III with two (2) control
sticks one on each side of the aircraft. If so I would like to have his
address. Also what speed do you use when you want to use the flaps for
landing.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Lubitz" <elubitz(at)ionline.net> |
elubitz(at)ionline.net
Hi;
I have made a cross stick arrangement that sleeves onto the stick and
allows you to hold the stick with your left hand and the throttle in your
right. Still playing with it but it is better than the original. I
personally do not like the cross over to get to the throttle on the MK III
but I suppose you can get used to anything; so please do not bother sending
a whole bunch of posts saying how great this is and all aircraft should be
this way.
Ed Lubitz
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
4800-4900 rpm
2.6 gph
Rotax 447 SC on a FS KXP
Warp 66" high aspect prop
Note: I somehow have always needed to be jetted ~2 sizes above
(richer) what the Rotax charts show for normal.
Another related question: I've assumed that the best rpm for maximum fuel
range is more like 4700 (as opposed to humming along at 5500). I've never
tested this out. Has anybody accurately tested this? My assumption is
based on the Rotax fuel flow charts, higher EGT as i drop to the mid 4k
rpms, and Conventional Wisdom.
These 2-strokes are odd little beasts.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>Does any one know of some one who built a Mark III with two (2) control
>sticks one on each side of the aircraft. If so I would like to have his
>address. Also what speed do you use when you want to use the flaps for
>landing.
>
A Fellow named John Hauck, his MKIII won u/l Grand Champ at Oshkosh
several years ago, Check the back issues of EAA Experimenter for pictures,
address.
I fly final at 50 with flaps, any slower and it can sink too much on
short final when you round out.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Turbulence (was Trip to KOLB) |
Dan Bush and I were chatting a little further about this controllabilty
issue.
Reflecting back on the limited replies to the thread, I thought it
possible that somebody *might* get the idea that the really strong
Xwinds are fairly do-able. (Cavuontop(at)aol.com mentioned 17-18knots,
acknowledging that it was a stick flinging experince.) I agreed
(and still do) with his overall characterization, but wanted to add
that I personally would not want to try on that much 90deg Xwind.
I'd find another runway -- anything! -- and this meant as no slighting
to Cavuontop's choice. The max Xwind landing I've done is ~12mph at
90 degrees on a narrow grass strip, and I was pretty ON for that. I've
landed in 18mph headwinds gusting heavily over that, and was pretty tuned
up for that too. (While picking that particular runway from the air, I
pre-planned a hay stack to park next to so that I could get out without
my plane blowing away while i emptied the ol bladder :-) )
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
>elubitz(at)ionline.net
>
>Hi;
>
>I have made a cross stick arrangement that sleeves onto the stick and
>allows you to hold the stick with your left hand and the throttle in your
>right. Still playing with it but it is better than the original. I
>personally do not like the cross over to get to the throttle on the MK III
>but I suppose you can get used to anything; so please do not bother sending
>a whole bunch of posts saying how great this is and all aircraft should be
>this way.
>
Argh!! Heretic! ;-)
I'm not too familiar with the Mark III setup... Is the throttle in the
middle? If so, what about mounting a throttle on the left of the pilot?
-Jon-
.--- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ron Hoyt <RONALD.R.HOYT(at)cdev.com> |
To All
Here is what I found.
The local auto store deals with PPG paint systems. They had a number of
products for finishing Al. They were also able to give me directions for
the finishing processes. The prices were within the shipping cost
differential of Aircraft Spruce & Speciality. The PPG products they sold are:
Wax and grease remover DX440 or 330 @$6.82/qt.
Etch and brighter-ALUMIPREP 33 DX533 @$10.23/qt.
Treat with ALODINE 1201 or 1001 DX503 or DX501 @$11.00/qt
This is process less aggressive than sanding or scotchbright on Al. This is
the al. finish which folks a Oshkosh were recommending. This included the
Stitz Poly Fiber people. The process is straight forward as follows:
1. Remove all wax and grease. The product DX440 will do the job.
2. Clean off the Al. oxide and corrosion. Alumiprep 33 does the job. A
paint brush with nylon bristles and rubber gloves are all that is needed.
The product is left on no longer than 5 min. This leaves a bright Al.
finish which will oxidize quickly if not protected. The product is a
phosphoric acid and should be handled accordingly. The same type of
product is used on steel as a primer prep. It should not be allowed to dry
before washing.
3. Water rinse. This is to remove all the Alumiprep, particularly in
joints and rivets.
4. Treat with Alodine. This puts a chromate ceramic finish on the Al.
which is a preferred foundation for paint and primers. The finish may be
clear of gold colored depending on wether you use 1001 or 1201. This
ceramic finish meets the military salt spray tests of 365 days of corrosion
prevention. The 1201 (DX503) leaves a gold stain on the al. and is a hard
chromate finish specifically for corrosion protection and primer bonding.
The 1001 (DX501) leaves a bright al. color finish and is a hard chromate
finish which may be top coated to preserve the Al. color. It also provides
corrosion protection. The ALODINE is environmentally safe but toxic. Their
recommendations warn about splashing product in your eyes and skin contact.
The product is used as a dip or may be painted on the article and needs
washing to remove the unreacted ALODINE. The same tools are needed.
5. Dry the article. At this point the Al. is ready for painting without
any further prepping. It may be stored or painted immediately.
6. Paint the article with a clear coat if the Al color is desired or an
epoxy primer as the first step in the colored finish.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>
> I'm not too familiar with the Mark III setup... Is the throttle in the
>middle? If so, what about mounting a throttle on the left of the pilot?
>
> -Jon-
>
It is in the middle between the two seats. In my unsolicited opinion
it is a rinky dink way of letting the pilot and co-pilot (instructor and
trainee?) both be able to get to the throttle and stick at the same time.
Welding some tabs to the left inside of the cage next to the pilots left
outside thigh is easy during initial construction, and a bolt on throttle
quadrant from CPS is a simple add on. You could even weld on a bolt/flat
washer and use the stock throttle lever if you didn't want to spring for the
aftermarket quadrant.
Wonder if the factory would sell you one like that if you asked?
More likely they would sell it to you if you paid.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re[2]: fuel burn |
Help us out here give your reference, what engine and plane.
Next how does wind affect fuel burn unless you adjusting throttle by
ground speed, not airspeed. Airspeed should not care what the wind
speed is, it all relative in the air.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: fuel burn
Date: 8/21/97 8:50 AM
RUSTY
I CRUISE AT 5 / 55 K AND HAVE A FUEL BURN OF 2.75 / 3 GAL. DEPENDING
ON THE WIND
RICK LIBERSAT
>> 5000rpm (which is 300 more RPM than I usually fly) and I also got
>just a
>tad
>
>Can't help with the fuel burn question, but now I'm wondering what rpm
>most
>people cruise at. I was under the impression that you would normally
>run
>in the mid to upper 5 thousand range. I don't really know what made
>me
>think that though. What is the "normal" cruise rpm?
>
>Rusty
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re[2]: fuel burn |
First I don't have personal experience here but had been told that you
can load down the engine (Rotax) to much and it will actually cause
higher fuel consumption than running it at higher RPM. This came from
Mark of Earthstar Aircraft who flies his demo aircraft (ThunderGull)
cross county to all the major airshows for vendor display.
He also claims that operation at the higher RPM keeps the carbon build
up down and runs well over 1000 hours on his engines before overhaul.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: fuel burn
Date: 8/21/97 8:49 AM
>Can't help with the fuel burn question, but now I'm wondering what rpm most
>people cruise at. I was under the impression that you would normally run
>in the mid to upper 5 thousand range. I don't really know what made me
>think that though. What is the "normal" cruise rpm?
>Rusty
I have a 377 Firestar and I cruse at 4900 at 55 mph and 2.3 gallons per
hour. I would be surprised if a 503 could do better.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re[2]: Kolb factory support |
What problems have you had. My self I had a little tiff with Barb
when I first received my kit. Guess she had a bad day and I was next
one in line thus I caught it. I suffered a major discouragement as
the result. We worked it out and I got over it. Other than that one
incident, I have never found the people there to be unreasonable or
difficult to work with.
As far a Kolb is concerned I found them to be excellent to work with.
One of the things about small aircraft companies is their reputation.
This is one of the factors that lead me to purchasing a Kolb. Kolb
has for a long time had a good customer loyalty. You don't get that
by just selling some one a kit. Any parts I found to be short or
damaged has been replaced with no hassle.
So there's got to be more here. So what has ruffled your feathers
that you broadcast a message of buyer beware. This is pretty serious.
At least disclose enough detail to rationalize the basis behind such
a statement. If your going to take a shot at them, at least be
constructive about it. You may have a just cause for your feelings
but since you did not disclose any detail it lacks creditability from
our perspective. I have to base this on my experience and that of
others.
So what's the cause of your hard feeling towards them. I am curious
to learn about it, if it happens to be isolated incident or if there
more we should all be aware of. Most importantly have you talked to
Dennis. He's always treated me fair. I would hate for this to be
another editors commentary in a US, aviators magazine, by the editor
that they had received complaints from source about company XYZ which
occurred 13 years ago.
Jerry Bidle
I am happy with Kolb but open and objective enough to listen to the
view from the other side.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb factory support
Date: 8/21/97 8:49 AM
I have heard praise from other Kolb builders also, but my experience
with
the company has not been in line with these comments.
Buyer beware.
John Jung
RICK M LIBERSAT wrote:
>
> Frank
>
> I know just what you mean, While I was building my M III each and
> EVERY time I had to make A call to Dennis, Dan, Bill , you could not ask
> for better service, And Barbra, would track them down if you could not
> get one of them on the phone . As far as shipping goes I never had any
> problems. Frank I called KOLB on monday in the P.M. I placed an
> order " DAN" took the call as the KOLB company was loading up to go to
> OSK. . On friday OF THE SAME WEEK I had my order on my front door
> stepps
> That is what I call service . I dont belive you will have any trouble
> with the staff or their service
> Rick Libersat
>
> writes:
> >My hat is off to the folks at Kolb Aircraft!
> >
> >Not only do they deliver a great kit with quality materials and
> >relatively easy to understand instructions; their support of the
> >builder
> >is fantastic!
> >
> >After talking with Dennis and others on his staff, They are:
> > -sending new material for the wingtip that I folded during
> >construction.
> > -sending additional rivits for the ones I had to drill out or
> >lost.
> > -sending a replacement wing spar, without asking for a check,
> >pending the shippers settlement of a damage claim.
> >
> >It all adds up to a more enjoyable building experience; I am really
> >having a great time with my FS II.
> >
> > Frank Hodson, Oxford ME
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re[2]: fuel burn (wind/duration) |
Fuel burn or consumption rate (gallon/per/hour) equates to the amount
of time you can fly, thus duration.
Useable fuel on board/fuel consumption rate = flying hours
Wind affects range not consumption per hour unless you are changing
throttle settings which likely would change the rate of fuel
consumption per hour.
How does wind change duration, it doesn't.
Whether you have a tail wind (wind pushing you) or a head wind (wind
your bucking against), the duration is the same (time it takes to
empty the fuel tank based upon fuel consumption rate).
What wind does impact is the range or distance you can fly.
hour (note your indicated airspeed will still read the same) thus for
a given period of time say an hour you will cover more distance that
wind you actual ground speed is slower than your indicated air speed,
thus you progress or distance you can travel to you empty your tank is
less, thus your range is less when bucking a head wind.
Usually over a short time period for a round trip flight you will have
either a tail or head wind going, and the oppose coming back. For
some reason in Texas I often end up with head winds in both
directions. That means I don't get to fur from home on a tank of
fuel.
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: fuel burn
Date: 8/21/97 8:50 AM
Depending on the wind????? How does the wind affect endurance??
(gals/hour) Please advise us all.
Garp
snip...snip
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Primer vs. Choke |
Hi,
Several people mentioned using a primer for their engine starts. Since
they're so cheap, and my carbs already have a port for the primer, I'm
thinking of adding one. My question is, do you actually need the choke if
you have a primer? I expect you can live without it easily in the summer,
but wonder about when it gets colder. Personally, I don't expect to do
much flying when it's colder than about 50 degrees (remember, Florida Boy).
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary <gpatriqu(at)direct.ca> |
Subject: | Re: fuel burn (wind/duration) |
jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> Fuel burn or consumption rate (gallon/per/hour) equates to the
> amount
> of time you can fly, thus duration.
>
> Useable fuel on board/fuel consumption rate = flying hours
>
> Wind affects range not consumption per hour unless you are
> changing
> throttle settings which likely would change the rate of fuel
> consumption per hour.
>
Jerry:
You completely missed the point of my posting. I KNOW that wind doesn't
affect endurance!
Garp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Mark 3 with passenger |
Recently flew my 503 powered Mark 3 with passenger for the first time.
Bummer! With a gross of 800 Lbs and weight and balance at max forward she
was so nose heavy I had to hold the stick wa-a-a-y back and there was no
margin for error that I always enjoyed when flying single. I was not
prepared for this revelation. Didn't use flaps because I didn't want to
risk any safety margin I had. Be careful out there ! ! Comments??
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Primer or choke, primer or choke... |
I've followed this thread for a while and given it some thought. Someone
has posted here that he has been flying without chokes and without a primer
bulb without trouble, and he was using the carb primers. This has appeal,
especially to get rid of the primer bulb, and to reduce the number of control
cables. But it adds some complexity to your fuel supply system, with a "T"
to tap into the main fuel lines, and about 9 feet of 1/8" fuel line (for 2
carb installation). The added connections must be kept air-tight.
Snowmobiles using the 583 Rotax (just like our 582), use a carb primer only
no choke and no primer bulb. They are not trying to pull the fuel uphill
3 feet like the Mkiii does so maybe I still need the primer bulb, I'm not sure.
My plan is to run a while with the choke settup, and try to never use the
primer bulb to see if it can be eliminated. If it can, I will switch to the
carb primers and take off the chokes. My reasoning is that then the total
complexity stays about the same, with a couple extra connections, the primer
bulb (that people say can fail and block fuel flow) can be eliminated, and I
will end up with a second fuel-supply path possibly to supplement flow if the
vacuum-powered fuel pump fails. My 2-cents worth...
Anybody have a brother-in-law that's a DAR for Homebuilts?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jon Steiger <steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Primer vs. Choke |
>Hi,
>
>Several people mentioned using a primer for their engine starts. Since
>they're so cheap, and my carbs already have a port for the primer, I'm
>thinking of adding one. My question is, do you actually need the choke if
>you have a primer? I expect you can live without it easily in the summer,
>but wonder about when it gets colder. Personally, I don't expect to do
>much flying when it's colder than about 50 degrees (remember, Florida Boy).
>
Hmmm, I'm not sure that I'd want to try to start without the primer!
I've never really tried. (Well, except when the engine is warm or has
been run recently, that is.)
My normal start routine for the first flight of the day is to pump fuel
up to the carb with the bulb (if nescessary), choke out, one shot of primer,
throttle back, ignition on, pull rope. Usually starts on the first pull.
Sometimes, when its feeling ornery and doesn't want to stay running, I
give it little shots of primer to keep it going, until the engine
warms up to the point where it will keep running. I don't leave the
choke on for very long. I'll wait a few seconds and turn it off. If
the engine starts to run rough, I pull it back on, and try again several
seconds later.
The primer seems to help quite a bit as far as starting goes. Also,
the choke is not as effective when the throttle is advanced. Sometimes
you need more RPM's out of the engine to keep it running, but as you do,
the choke becomes less effective. If the engine tries to die, a little
shot of primer will perk it right back up again. If you don't have a
primer, I'm not sure what to do in that case. :-)
-Jon-
.--- steiger@ait.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Re :Re: Mark 3 with passenger |
Thanks to you all for the responses on my concern with first flight with a
passenger. Aside from some possible trim adjustments I have learned that:
you should not try your first passenger hop on a 95 degree high humidity
day, that full 1/8 thick canopy probably will effect the W&B and finally
that this is no 747. Major increases in weight will cause major changes in
performance. I still love my Mk3 and she is a great flier. Happy
Landings... Duane Mitchell
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Christensen" <SPECTRUMINTERNATIONAL(at)classic.msn.com> |
Hi Tim:
I purchased wheel pants for my MK III from Harbor Products Co. 2390 Crenshaw
Blvd., Ste. 164, Torrance, CA 90501. Phone: 310/326-5609 or fax:
310/874-5934. They are of very high quality; they have a wide variety of
sizes and shapes available at competitive prices. They are made in one piece;
i.e. the entire wheel pant is laid up inside a mold, rather than the usual
approach where two halves are glued together. Harbor Products is sometimes
hard to contact; recommend sending a fax to the above number. Incidentally,
they advertise in nearly all the flying magazines. Good shopping.
Ron Christensen
MK III
N313DR
----------
From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com on behalf of Timandjan(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 1997 7:14 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: wheel pants
Does anybody have a source for wheel pants for the 15x6x6 wheels and tires we
use on the Kolbs. I live in Louisiana and it rains a lot, and every time I
fly to my friends grass strips I have to clean a lot of mud from my plane. I
am just toying with the wheel pants idea.
Would appreciate the names of some suppliers and phone numbers.
thanks tim loehrke
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | Squeeze bulb reliability |
To All,
(excerpt of another posting)
> the primer
>bulb (that people say can fail and block fuel flow) can be eliminated
I did not install the Kolb suggested bypass tube. I had hoped to be able to
grab that bulb if I had an engine fuel pump failure (and the presence of
mind to do so in such case) and squeeze it like all get out. Grabbing both
the bulb and tube might not be so easy in an emergency. Has anyone heard
first hand of a failure of the squeeze bulb. I might install the bypass
tube if I hear of any specific failures.
I have used that kind of pump on outboard motors for years and never had or
heard of a problem... and you know some of those marine applications are
very old and grungy. You would think that there would be failures in that
application for sure if it was going to fail.
On the subject of fuel rate. It is too soon to really be accurate but I
estimate that I am burning a little over 3 gph on my 582. I can fly for
almost 2 hours (hobbs time) on 6.5 gallons or so. That would include taxi
time and cruising an average of around 5300 rpm. I don't like to fly with
less than 2 gallons (well maybe 1.5 gallons as an absolute minimum) because
of overhead fuel draw. I would hate to have a fuel stem unport and start
sucking air. Talk about difficulty for the fuel pump to eat all that air...
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (11.4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Primer or choke, primer or choke... |
Primer:
I've been tempted to install a primer after being stuck on a hill
unable to start a few weeks back.
Choke:
If I do install a primer, I will not get rid of my choke
as it is a good diagnostic tool whether in flight or otherwise.
Squeeze Bulb:
I don't know of failures except for the rumored ones ...guess i
just haven't kept track. The only usefulness I see in this is
filling the float bowl before flight. Seems like either a
squeeze bulb OR an electric pump is required, but both seems
unnecessary/unrealistic, as in fact, neither is required in normal
flight.
Nonusers would read this and have proof we're nuts.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Ordering a primer |
Thanks to everyone for the primer comments. It sounds like a good thing to
add. CPS has the kit for less than $20, and it should save me a couple
pulls on the rope for almost every start. If that isn't a bargain, I don't
know what is :-)
I just scheduled my airworthiness inspection for Sat the 30th. This
weekend, I have to finish the canopy and seatbelts, then do the weight and
balance paperwork so I can mail it out Monday. I'll only be in town 3 days
next week to add all the placards and markings. Geez, what have I done :-)
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | fuel burn again from tim |
OK, I opened up a can of worms again when asking about fuel burn. It's like
asking whether or not to use the oil injection or what kind of oil to use,
but for you experts out there is this possible.
I really did get a bit more than 2 gallon an hour burn at 5000rpm here in
Louisiana on my 503 dc, 400 pound empty weight Firestar 2. The day it was
real hot and humid. The last time I checked it (fuel burn) it was cooler and
I thought I was getting more like 3-4 gallon an hour burn. As we all know,
when it's cooler and the air is more dense in the winter we need to re jet
the carbs with a bigger jet to keep the egt cool, but might the high ambient
temperatures and humidity make the fuel burn less.
I am learning as I go and appreciate the expert advice found here.
thanks Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I started to suffer from AIDS (aircraft induced
divorce syndrome), but I think my wife is over the initial shock.
Thanks for the support,
Rich Bragassa >>
Been there done that, at least the syndrome part!!
G
eoR38
the Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: flying platform |
writes:
<< God help you and don't hold me responsible if you break
your necks! ;-) >>
Do I detect that you feel that any person who would search for such an
unusual craft would have more than one neck? GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
Peter,
382-7667..... I live 1/4 mile north of Tamiami airport
I'll talk to you,
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fwd: I want to Join EAA! - Secure |
First things first !!!!
Rich Bragassa
Forwarded message:
From: ksanders(at)eaa.org (Kay Sanders)
To: lrb1476(at)aol.com ('lrb1476(at)aol.com')
Date: 97-08-20 03:53:02 EDT
Thank you for your membership application to EAA. Welcome! We're
entering your payment, and you can expect to receive your membership
card and materials in the mail in three to four weeks, your first
magazine in September.
Please get in touch if you have questions or concerns. For those in the
U.S. and Canada, our telephone is 800-843-3612; or, our business line is
414-426-4800. Should you wish to send a fax, the number is
414-426-6761.
> ----------
> From: lrb1476(at)aol.com[SMTP:lrb1476(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 1997 11:50 AM
> To: Membership
> Subject: I want to Join EAA! - Secure
>
> Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted by
> (lrb1476(at)aol.com) on Tuesday, August 19, 1997 at 11:50:09
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
>
> email: lrb1476(at)aol.com
>
> FName: rich
>
> LName: bragassa
>
> Address1: 14500 sw 105 terr
>
> City: miami
>
> State: fl
>
> Postal: 33186
>
> PostalPlusFour: 2924
>
> Country: USA
>
> HomePhone: 305-382-7667
>
> WorkPhone: 305-383-6867
>
> contact: Home Number
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> REMOTE_HOST: 200-147-83.ipt.aol.com
> HTTP_USER_AGENT: Mozilla/2.0 (compatible; MSIE 3.02; Update a; AOL
> 3.0; Windows 95)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Subject: | Choke vs. primer |
Perhaps it is possible to muddy the waters a bit more...
One of the guys in the chapter had a Starlight with a 447 and dual carbs. No
primer bulb. Chokes? Don't know. Primer system to the side of the carbs. The
primer pump developed a tendency to vibrate and let the plunger pump back
out a bit. When this happened,it allowed fuel to travel through it and to
the primer ports in the side of the carb, and richened the engine up just
like the choke circuit normally would. He went crazy trying to jet his
engine until he found the leak.
Prior to the the MKIII I had an Anglin J-6 (Karatoo) with a Rotax
532. Primer bulb in the fuel line, wing tanks (high wing, gravity feed) and
chokes. The only way I could get that puppy to start from cold was to give
it a shot of ether (engine starting fluid) in the air filter. Fortunatly it
always worked. Once it fired , the chokes worked normal to warm it up, etc.
Ether is good.
When I started work on my MKIII, somehow I ended up with 2 primer
bulbs, may have bought one of them locally, don't remember. Put one of them
on the old boat (1953 Feathercraft 14' with a 40hp Elgin, also 1953, who
says good 2-strokes won't last forever?) This spring the primer bulb had a
hole rotted through on the tank end and was sucking wind. Preflight,
preflight, preflight!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: fuel burn again from tim |
From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
TIM
How far are you from Lake Charles, LA. I am in Orange, TX.
>OK, I opened up a can of worms again when asking about fuel burn. It's
>like
>asking whether or not to use the oil injection or what kind of oil to
>use,
>but for you experts out there is this possible.
>
>I really did get a bit more than 2 gallon an hour burn at 5000rpm here
>in
>Louisiana on my 503 dc, 400 pound empty weight Firestar 2. The day it
>was
>real hot and humid. The last time I checked it (fuel burn) it was
>cooler and
>I thought I was getting more like 3-4 gallon an hour burn. As we all
>know,
>when it's cooler and the air is more dense in the winter we need to re
>jet
>the carbs with a bigger jet to keep the egt cool, but might the high
>ambient
>temperatures and humidity make the fuel burn less.
>I am learning as I go and appreciate the expert advice found here.
>thanks Tim
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
Richard
I did not care for where the throttle was to be in my M III so I did
move mine to the left side . I had a small plate that I made with the
holes pre drilled welded to the side . I sure do like it a lot better.
Richard , I did order a throttle quadrant from C P S
it would not work so I had to send it back along with a phone call to
tell C P S why .
They said that we do not make the throttle quadrants , that they buy
them from this place up in Organ .so they gave me the phone number so I
could call ,an have it made just the way I needed to so it would fit
the M III .
writes:
>
>>
>> I'm not too familiar with the Mark III setup... Is the throttle
>in the
>>middle? If so, what about mounting a throttle on the left of the
>pilot?
>>
>> -Jon-
>>
>
> It is in the middle between the two seats. In my unsolicited
>opinion
>it is a rinky dink way of letting the pilot and co-pilot (instructor
>and
>trainee?) both be able to get to the throttle and stick at the same
>time.
>Welding some tabs to the left inside of the cage next to the pilots
>left
>outside thigh is easy during initial construction, and a bolt on
>throttle
>quadrant from CPS is a simple add on. You could even weld on a
>bolt/flat
>washer and use the stock throttle lever if you didn't want to spring
>for the
>aftermarket quadrant.
> Wonder if the factory would sell you one like that if you
>asked?
>More likely they would sell it to you if you paid.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Primer vs. Choke |
From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
JON
The way you described that you start your Rotax is the same way that I
have to do mine . If I don't use the primer ,, MY arm feel's like it is
going to fall off .
writes:
>>Hi,
>>
>>Several people mentioned using a primer for their engine starts.
>Since
>>they're so cheap, and my carbs already have a port for the primer,
>I'm
>>thinking of adding one. My question is, do you actually need the
>choke if
>>you have a primer? I expect you can live without it easily in the
>summer,
>>but wonder about when it gets colder. Personally, I don't expect to
>do
>>much flying when it's colder than about 50 degrees (remember, Florida
>Boy).
>>
>
>
> Hmmm, I'm not sure that I'd want to try to start without the primer!
>I've never really tried. (Well, except when the engine is warm or has
>
>been run recently, that is.)
>
> My normal start routine for the first flight of the day is to pump
>fuel
>up to the carb with the bulb (if nescessary), choke out, one shot of
>primer,
>throttle back, ignition on, pull rope. Usually starts on the first
>pull.
>
>Sometimes, when its feeling ornery and doesn't want to stay running, I
>
>give it little shots of primer to keep it going, until the engine
>warms up to the point where it will keep running. I don't leave the
>choke on for very long. I'll wait a few seconds and turn it off. If
>the engine starts to run rough, I pull it back on, and try again
>several
>seconds later.
>
> The primer seems to help quite a bit as far as starting goes.
>Also,
>the choke is not as effective when the throttle is advanced.
>Sometimes
>you need more RPM's out of the engine to keep it running, but as you
>do,
>the choke becomes less effective. If the engine tries to die, a
>little
>shot of primer will perk it right back up again. If you don't have a
>primer, I'm not sure what to do in that case. :-)
>
>
> -Jon-
>
> .--- steiger(at)ait.fredonia.edu --
>http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
> | DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ,
>RP-SEL |
> | '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447
>(#FF019) |
>
>`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
> I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are
>my own.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | William Hinkelmann <whink(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Civility on this list. |
BRAVO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>To all,
>
>I hope there will not be anyone responding to this message because it is not
>directed toward anyone, but to all of us. I'm sensitive. Nobody better
>yell at me about this.
>
>In a nutshell, let's be "civil" with each other.
>
>Later,
>
>--
>Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (11.4 hrs)
>(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
> Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
>
>
_____________________
William Hinkelmann
whink(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
Subject: | Hirth G27 gearbox |
Anyone with experience with this box?
Problem's this....was going to seal a slow seep in the driven gear
seal and on tear-down found that the drive gear big bearing is bad.
Since the engine and the drive gear turn counter clockwise, t'would
seem that the bolt that holds the drive coupler/bearing unit on the
gear would be left-hand thread. Can anyone confirm?
Thanks
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
Elmore City OK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dan Bush" <dbush(at)gte.net> |
Just a comment on people and writing styles with regard to civility.
I seriously doubt that it's necessary to comment about civility. Depending
on where you've grown up, New York, California, Boston, Florida or the
Midwest, conversation and writing styles vary considerably. What is civil
in one part of the country is thought to be downright insulting in another.
When visiting New York once, I almost punched a local for the way he was
talking to me. After getting the point across that I was unappreciative,
his facial expression changed to one of disbief - he couldn't understand
why I was so mad - upset etc. After a longer conversation I realized that
he wasn't insulting me, it was just the accepted conversational manner.
Writing and interpreting what is being said is also difficult - you can't
see the person's face, hear the intonation of his voice, see his body
language etc. I've been told that my writing style is stilted - but it's
my writing style. What is unacceptable to one person may be acceptable to
another. What is considered insulting, may not be, but is just the way
they write when trying to get a point across.
Having said all this - really think this shouldn't have been necessary.
We're all adults, if you don't like something, ignore it - or respond in
"private" to the person - I don't care to read about personality conflicts.
Dan Bush - dbush(at)gte.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Don't be too sure that if you asked that the throttle mount be on the left
side as a condition of the sale, they wouldn't do it. It should be a very
minor change as long as it would clear the enclosure. Moving the stick on
the other hand would be a major mod.
They agreed and followed through dropping the front
cross bar of the seat about an inch on my FireFly if I ordered the kit.
______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: stick
Date: 8/21/97 11:37 PM
>
> I'm not too familiar with the Mark III setup... Is the throttle in the
>middle? If so, what about mounting a throttle on the left of the pilot?
>
> -Jon-
>
It is in the middle between the two seats. In my unsolicited opinion
it is a rinky dink way of letting the pilot and co-pilot (instructor and
trainee?) both be able to get to the throttle and stick at the same time.
Welding some tabs to the left inside of the cage next to the pilots left
outside thigh is easy during initial construction, and a bolt on throttle
quadrant from CPS is a simple add on. You could even weld on a bolt/flat
washer and use the stock throttle lever if you didn't want to spring for the
aftermarket quadrant.
Wonder if the factory would sell you one like that if you asked?
More likely they would sell it to you if you paid.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sandro Bastien" <sbastien(at)dsuper.net> |
Subject: | RE: PRIMER, CHOKE,PRIMER BULB |
I HAVE A MARK II WITH ONLY A PRIMER.
I NEVER HAD PROBLEM TO START THE ENGINE, EVEN AT -20 DEG. CELCIUS.
TO START THE ENGINE:
- I PRIME 2 OR 3 TIMES
- ADVANCE THE THROTTLE A LITTLE BIT (ABOUT 1/8 - 3/16 OF THROTTLE CABLE
I
CAN SEE IN THE COCKPIT)
- I PULL THE ROPE.
- AND I KEEP MY HAND ON THE PRIMER IN CASE THE ENGINE RPM GOES DOWN. IF
RPM DROP THEN
PRIME A BIT UNTIL THE RPM IS GOOD (RPM GOES TO 3000)
OF COURSE IT WOULD BE EASIER TO START IF I HAVE A PRIMER BULB, SO I CAN
FILL THE CARB. BOWL, BUT IT IS A EXTRA THING TO CHECK (FOR CRACK, GENERAL
CONDITION, AND SOME PEOPLE SAY IT MAY FAIL).
FOR THE PRIMER, ALL YOU HAVE TO CHECK IS THE CONDITION OF THE FUEL LINE
AND THE CONNECTIONS(IT IS FAST)
DURING THE WINTER, SOMETIME I PRIME 2 SHOT AND THEN I TURN THE PROP FEW
TURN (IF IT IS -20 C) TO SEE IF THE ENGINE TURN OK THEN IGNITION ON 1,
PRIME AND THEN START. THE ENGINE WILL THEN START FIRST TIME BUT MAY NOT
KEEP THE RPM, THEN PRIME 1 MORE.
Have fun, be safe
sbastien(at)dsuper.net
175 hrs of fun
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com |
pat kegebein wrote:
>
> I would like it if anybody with a scanner or a web-site with pictures of
> the finished MKIII. I would like to see what other people have done for
> their paintjob. If at all possible send me the pictures.
>
> Thank you,
> Bruce
Kolb builders and fliers:
I put up a website that has pictures of Frank Reynen's Mark III. More
will be added as time goes on. The web address is
http://www.webcom.com/reynen/.
I would appreciate it if you would report any problems with loading or
viewing the pages. Also, let us know if you are interested in more
information or pictures of the custom Full Lotus float attachment or the
electric/air gear retract mechanism.
Christina Reynen
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To all,
I just finished the half doors. It took an afternoon.
The Lexan was purchased from Cadillac Plastics for $6. I picked up a
package of 1/8" hole aluminum washers at Home Depot for a buck and change.
The rest of the stuff I had as scrap from the building project - 1/2"
extruded alum. stick material, some U-chanel extruded alum. stick material,
some 1/2' alum. tubing, some 1/8" and 1/4" rivets and a piece of piano hinge
material.
I did not install any door closures as I find they are unnecessary for the
regular doors. I hope they don't start flapping. I might tie them closed
for the first flight to make sure that can not happen.
They turned out fairly nice. I just supported all 4 sides with some sort of
stiff material - the fore and aft sides of material that could be bent to
form the shape desired. At the corners the braces were tagged together, the
Lexan edges sanded and sharp corners rounded. That is about it.
I hope to fly tomorrow so I may have a report on how well it goes. I sat
inside to see the view perspective and see how easy I can "reach out" and
grab the air. It should make for some nice unobstructed camera and video shots.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (11.4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Harty <jwharty(at)inw.net> |
Subject: | Re: flying platform |
GeoR38(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> writes:
>
> << God help you and don't hold me responsible if you break
> your necks! ;-) >>
> Do I detect that you feel that any person who would search for such an
> unusual craft would have more than one neck? GeoR38
Maybe! I've seen "Men In Black!" ;-)
--
************************************************************
* * *
* John W. Harty, EE (UMR '92) * EAA# 549251 *
* e-mail: jwharty(at)webmart.net * Fly Low, Fly Light! *
* * *
************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "r chaffin" <rrchaf(at)dbtech.net> |
Subject: | interested in kolb |
I am interested in a kolb mark lll and preferably on floats.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To All,
The half doors flew just great. I discovered that they stayed glued closed
even when I yawed the fuselage around and when I pushed them open there was
a lot of slip stream force holding them closed... therefore no need for any
latches. The airflow was kept out of my face but allowed me to lean out or
reach out into the slip stream. Flying at about 1K feet I was actually a
little cool wearing my Kolb T-shirt and shorts. Usually it is pretty hot
here this time of year, but today it was in the low 90's I think. I took
some right handed videos unobstructed by Lexan from behind the doors. Felt
kind of goofy holding the stick with my left hand... and I am naturally left
handed. The wind swept 99 percent of the gasoline fumes away... a complaint
I had of the full doors with rear enclosure removed. I can't say that the
Kolb flew any differently than with the full doors. I will probably remove
the door braces that hold the rear enclosure on. That will give me even
less obstruction and drag.
I lost one side of my EGT guage... again. It was a probe that failed last
time and I suspect that it may be the same this time. The cheapest
instruments may not be the way to go.
Also did some hanger flying with some of the guys down at the hanger where
they are building a Firefly. Not much got done on covering the project
while we all looked at Oshkosh pictures and talked. Did'ja hear that
Jerry!... who is the Firefly owner and stuck in the outback somewhere in
Malaysia.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (12.9 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
Rick,
I took your advise and ordered the 17 gallon gas tank. I called John at the
factory, and he said the plane was almost ahead of schedule.....I guess the
waiting is the worst part.
Thanks for the advise,
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: New Kolb Mklll owner & new www user |
Rusty,
Do you know anyone who has purchashed a Mk 3 quick build kit ? It seems like
they do alot of the work.
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | weight & balance |
Hi all,
Life is pretty frantic here in the last week before inspection. I got the
canopy Lexan (don't start with me Ben ) installed Saturday. It came out
great, except that it's already started showing signs of cracking around
some of the rivets. I'm somewhat less than pleased about this. All the
outside markings are on except for the data plate that's being engraved.
All the paperwork for inspection is finished and will be sent out tomorrow.
Weight and balance was a bit heavier than I expected, but within the aft
limit without adding any ballast (thank goodness). Empty weight is a
portly 416 lbs (sorry Dennis). The forward CG limit is impossible to
reach, and the aft limit would occur with a pilot that weighs under 140 lb.
I'm 160 so I'll be within spec.
The inspector told me that one of his pet items to look for is friction
lock nuts with less than 1.5 threads of bolt showing. I spent part of the
afternoon on bolt patrol. I replaced about 10 bolts that were just a bit
too short. Unfortunately, the main lift strut bolts only have one thread
showing. I just have this feeling he's going to make me correct that, but
I really don't want to cut open the wing so soon :-(
I found the voltage reading problem that I had with the EIS. Greg told me
that there had to be something wrong with the capacitor that I'm using
since I don't have a battery. He said that usually it's installed
backwards when this happens. Can't be! I'm an electronics tech. I would
never do something that..... Oooops :-) Yep, I had it all taped up, and
when I untaped it, it had blown up. Hooked up the new one correctly this
time.
I also put in the seatbelts today. I can't say I'm too thrilled about
them, but they'll do for now. I'm taking bets on whether the FAA will
allow these to fly as per plans. They're probably secure enough, but I
don't like them.
Well, gotta go. I'll be out of town for a couple days, leaving only 3 days
to finish the last details of labeling everything before the inspection.
Times running out.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
Subject: | MK3 Quick Build Kit |
I got this, and would highly recommend it to all. I'm fairly certain I
would never
have completed N628SB (now over 30 hours) without it...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lrb1476(at)aol.com [SMTP:Lrb1476(at)aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 25, 1997 12:15 AM
> To: rad(at)pen.net
> Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Re: New Kolb Mklll owner & new www user
>
> Rusty,
>
> Do you know anyone who has purchashed a Mk 3 quick build kit ? It
> seems like
> they do alot of the work.
>
> Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
Subject: | canadian kolb for sale |
A friend of mine wants to get rid of his firestar. Poor guy.Here are the
details. Firestar 11,503 c box, 3blade warp,hydrolic brakes, electric
trim,rib stitched, many extras,proffesionally built and a real performer..
All metal enclosed trailer included. Registered Canadian Ultralight.$19900
obo will separate. Call Wayne 519 736 0577
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To all,
First the oil. Remember I started adding 2 ounces per 5 gallons EXTRA to my
fuel in my 582 that has oil injection. Bad idea. Perhaps I miscalculated
my oil useage or perhaps the 582 likes to run on leaner than the 1/50 to
1/70 that the literature mentions. I don't know. I do know that my plugs
don't like the extra oil. I have stopped using it and my engine now runs
smoother at idle and it is easier to start.
I removed the 14 lbs. ballast from the nose. I also removed the bows that
the full doors rest upon so with the half doors there is a lot of open space
to the right and left. The weight removal changed my trim (solo) from the
3rd notch to the 1st notch. It also tended to lower my tail in landing
flair a little more than I was used to before. Obviously, it climbs better
and seems (unscientific observation) to be bounced by air currents a little
more.
I switched the EGT probe leads and the other needle failed. At least I now
know it is not the instrument. It must be a bad probe or a bad connection
to the probe back at the engine. I will check that tomorrow.
I had to tighten my muffler shock mounts a little today. They were a bit
loose. I also tightened up the manifold hex nuts a smidgen as well. A
couple of weeks ago I found that I needed to tighten the hose clamps that
hold the carbs on. I guess after running the engine and heating it up the
"new" rubber thinned out a little under the clamps.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (12.9 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To all,
First the oil. Remember I started adding 2 ounces per 5 gallons EXTRA to my
fuel in my 582 that has oil injection. Bad idea. Perhaps I miscalculated
my oil useage or perhaps the 582 likes to run on leaner than the 1/50 to
1/70 that the literature mentions. I don't know. I do know that my plugs
don't like the extra oil. I have stopped using it and my engine now runs
smoother at idle and it is easier to start.
I removed the 14 lbs. ballast from the nose. I also removed the bows that
the full doors rest upon so with the half doors there is a lot of open space
to the right and left. The weight removal changed my trim (solo) from the
3rd notch to the 1st notch. It also tended to lower my tail in landing
flair a little more than I was used to before. Obviously, it climbs better
and seems (unscientific observation) to be bounced by air currents a little
more.
I switched the EGT probe leads on my half dead instrument and the other
needle failed. At least I now know it is not the instrument. It must be a
bad probe or a bad connection to the probe back at the engine. I will check
that tomorrow.
I had to tighten my muffler shock mounts a little today. They were a bit
loose. I also tightened up the manifold hex nuts a smidgen as well. A
couple of weeks ago I found that I needed to tighten the hose clamps that
hold the carbs on. I guess after running the engine and heating it up the
"new" rubber thinned out a little under the clamps.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (12.9 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: KOLA: weight & balance |
From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
Russell
sorry to hear about the lexan I know just how you feel . Watch the cracks
real close !!!
I know I had my rear left side rip 4 rivets out and the lexan was just
a flapping in the wind up at about 1k or so .If you have to buy some
more lexan you might want to give the people at cadillac plastic you can
reach them at this # 18002471000 talk to Veronica she used to work at
the cessna in Kansas she knows about aircraft windows
>Hi all,
>
>Life is pretty frantic here in the last week before inspection. I got
>the
>canopy Lexan (don't start with me Ben ) installed Saturday. It
>came out
>great, except that it's already started showing signs of cracking
>around
>some of the rivets. I'm somewhat less than pleased about this. All
>the
>outside markings are on except for the data plate that's being
>engraved.
>All the paperwork for inspection is finished and will be sent out
>tomorrow.
>
>Weight and balance was a bit heavier than I expected, but within the
>aft
>limit without adding any ballast (thank goodness). Empty weight is a
>portly 416 lbs (sorry Dennis). The forward CG limit is impossible to
>reach, and the aft limit would occur with a pilot that weighs under
>140 lb.
> I'm 160 so I'll be within spec.
>
>The inspector told me that one of his pet items to look for is
>friction
>lock nuts with less than 1.5 threads of bolt showing. I spent part of
>the
>afternoon on bolt patrol. I replaced about 10 bolts that were just a
>bit
>too short. Unfortunately, the main lift strut bolts only have one
>thread
>showing. I just have this feeling he's going to make me correct that,
>but
>I really don't want to cut open the wing so soon :-(
>
>I found the voltage reading problem that I had with the EIS. Greg
>told me
>that there had to be something wrong with the capacitor that I'm using
>since I don't have a battery. He said that usually it's installed
>backwards when this happens. Can't be! I'm an electronics tech. I
>would
>never do something that..... Oooops :-) Yep, I had it all taped up,
>and
>when I untaped it, it had blown up. Hooked up the new one correctly
>this
>time.
>
>I also put in the seatbelts today. I can't say I'm too thrilled about
>them, but they'll do for now. I'm taking bets on whether the FAA will
>allow these to fly as per plans. They're probably secure enough, but
>I
>don't like them.
>
>Well, gotta go. I'll be out of town for a couple days, leaving only 3
>days
>to finish the last details of labeling everything before the
>inspection.
>Times running out.
>
>
>Russell Duffy
>SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
>rad(at)pen.net
>http://www.pen.net/~rad/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Olendorf(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Squeeze bulb reliability |
<<
To All,
(excerpt of another posting)
> the primer
>bulb (that people say can fail and block fuel flow) can be eliminated
I did not install the Kolb suggested bypass tube. I had hoped to be able to
grab that bulb if I had an engine fuel pump failure (and the presence of
mind to do so in such case) and squeeze it like all get out. Grabbing both
the bulb and tube might not be so easy in an emergency. Has anyone heard
first hand of a failure of the squeeze bulb. I might install the bypass
tube if I hear of any specific failures.
>>
If you have the bypass tube and you squeeze the bulb you will still get
enough pressure going into the float bowl. Kind of like a pressure regulator
really, you don't have to worry about squeezing too hard.
By the way you will probably still be squeezing the bulb when then find your
body. FLY THE PLANE. :-)
Scott Olendorf
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Here's a tip to stop the Lexan from cracking: drill the holes one
drill size too big, ie. 5/32" instead of 1/8" and then use the rivits that
Kolb sends to attach the rib stitch tape. (after all, since you rib stitched
the wings instead of using those nasty rib-weakening rivits you have lots of
them left over, don't you?) The fabric attaching rivits are softer, and will
be easier on the Lexan. The oversize heads allow you to drill the holes
oversize and when the rivit expands, it still holds without exerting
internal stress on the Lexan, if you drill the hole through it oversize.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Mklll 17 gal gas tank |
Noel,
The factory officers the 17 gal custom built (for the Mk3) aluminum gas tank
for $400.00. I think this makes the Mk3 a complete plane. However, I would
think the heavier payload calls for the Rotax 912.
Thanks,
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | William Hinkelmann <whink(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | firestar II MUTANT |
Mutch to do about where to put the stick, and where to put the throttle.
Had a little MISHAP about a year ago, well my stick ended up on the right
side. DUHA! good place for it. figured might as well stick the throttle on
the stick VOLA!!! "HOTAS" . added floats, connected the parachute to a
kill switch, added a little crumple ZONE in front. "My Dr.Shoals pads were
removed from my rectum - been there/done that/don't want to repeat".
Should I be the "First One" to another crash, I want to be standing around
BS-ing with the late-comers. The ride in the MEAT wagon wasn't worth $850.
Nurses were BABES! but $42K will buy more at a "T" bar.
Build it light, but build it SAFE!
_____________________
William Hinkelmann
whink(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: quick build Mk3 |
Russ,
Thanks for the e-mail. My plane has not been delivered yet. I was wondering,
where do you start? The plans are good....I guess, but they don't start or
end. I was looking for something like STEP ONE : assemble gismo into etc etc
STEP TWO : place gismo
into etc etc
Thanks,
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
> Here's a tip to stop the Lexan from cracking: drill the holes one
> drill size too big, ie. 5/32" instead of 1/8" and then use the rivits
that
> Kolb sends to attach the rib stitch tape. (after all, since you rib
stitched
This sounds like a pretty good idea, but it's too late for me probably. I
asked Dennis about the cracking problems just before I installed my Lexan
and he told me that they use a #30 drill and the aluminum "sealing" rivets.
He said they don't have any trouble with cracking. Several of mine are
forming the "star cracking" problem but there's no rhyme or reason to which
ones do it. Some are under a bit of stress where the Lexan is being bent
some, but others are not. Some of the rivets that are under the most
stress aren't cracking at all.
A question: None of my cracks have exceeded about 1/8 inch so far. Is it
likely that drilling out the rivet and enlarging the hole would help, or is
too late since the cracks have already begun?
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | reynen(at)ix.netcom.com (Christina Reynen) |
Subject: | Re: Mklll 17 gal gas tank |
It all depends what the empty weight of your plane currently is.
I carry FULL LOTUS floats on my plane (582 Rotax) which weigh 105# and
I still want to add a 6 Gall tank for more range, in addition to the 10
gall std tanks.
I fly often at max gross weight (1000#) when carrying a passenger.
The MkIII still climbs, but slowly (200-300 fpm) average up to
5000'asl.
Frank Reynen MkIII@400hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
You wrote:
>
>Noel,
>
>The factory officers the 17 gal custom built (for the Mk3) aluminum
gas tank
>for $400.00. I think this makes the Mk3 a complete plane. However, I
would
>think the heavier payload calls for the Rotax 912.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rich
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | inspection questions |
Hi,
In going over the last of the pre-inspection details, I came across a
couple of questions.
1- If you had your inspection after about March 1996, were you required to
have an anti-collision light? I was under the impression that this was
only a night requirement, but now I'm not so sure. Will they make you have
one if you don't have an electrical system?
2- Do you have to have a compass correction card? I don't know the correct
name of this, but it's the card that shows errors due to installation
factors. Until the plane gets to an airport where there's a compass rose,
I can't imagine how you would be expected to fill this card out anyway. If
I have to come up with some numbers, I will though.
In general I can't find anything that gives the required markings for the
instruments. I know I've seen it, but now I don't remember where. I just
plan to mark everything..
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>> Here's a tip to stop the Lexan from cracking: drill the holes one
>> drill size too big, ie. 5/32" instead of 1/8" and then use the rivits
>that
>> Kolb sends to attach the rib stitch tape. (after all, since you rib
>stitched
>
>This sounds like a pretty good idea, but it's too late for me probably. I
>asked Dennis about the cracking problems just before I installed my Lexan
>and he told me that they use a #30 drill and the aluminum "sealing" rivets.
> He said they don't have any trouble with cracking. Several of mine are
>forming the "star cracking" problem but there's no rhyme or reason to which
>ones do it. Some are under a bit of stress where the Lexan is being bent
>some, but others are not. Some of the rivets that are under the most
>stress aren't cracking at all.
>
>A question: None of my cracks have exceeded about 1/8 inch so far. Is it
>likely that drilling out the rivet and enlarging the hole would help, or is
>too late since the cracks have already begun?
>
>Rusty
>
> This is a tough one. I had a crack in the windshield of my Hummer
that I stop drilled and it never got any worse. The only thing I can find
out is from Tont Bingelis's book "The Sportplane Builder" where he says that
a 24" square sheet of 1/8" thick plexiglas will expand and contract by 1/8"
through a 100 degree temp range. Consequently he strongly advocates drilling
the holes in the plastic to a very noticable oversize...3/8" for a 3/16"
screw and then using a round head screw with a large flange, or a washer
with a rubber washer underneath it to cushion it. If we are using a 1/8"
rivit does that mean we should drill the Lexan with a 3/16" hole? If the
rivit had a big enough head it would probably be a good idea since I am
inclined to think that the star shaped cracks are caused by the expansion of
the rivit in the Lexan hole as the rivit is squeezed.
It would be interesting to try a test. Drill a 1/8" hole in some
scrap Lexan, stick a rivit through it , back it up and squeeze it. See if
the rivit grows in diameter inside the Lexan hole and causes the star shaped
cracks. Then try sticking a 1/8" screw through a 1/8" hole in the Lexan and
put a washer and nut on it and run it down as tight as possible and see if
it star cracks. If the cracks are caused by the Lexan being pulled down too
tight, slip a thin feeler gauge next to the rivit just as you start to
squeeze it, and as soon as it snugs in the hole, slide the feeler gauge out
and pop the rivit. That will give you a little room. Probably a .002 or .003
would do it. If it is the rivit growing,I think I would drill out the hole
bigger and use the fabric retaining rivits, since they are soft and don't
pull down real hard and their oversize heads would retain the Lexan even if
you had to make the hole large or eccentric to cut out the cracks.
Let us know what you find out.
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Christina Reynen <reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Rusty:
To stop propagation of a crack in Lexan drill a small hole at the END of
the crack. This is a trick I learned way back in the Air Force; it
stops cracks from getting bigger in either plastic or metal. I have
used this procedure succesfully on my windscreen cracks and they are
holding already for three years.
Frank Reynen, MarkIII @400hrs.
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
Russell Duffy wrote:
>
> > Here's a tip to stop the Lexan from cracking: drill the holes one
> > drill size too big, ie. 5/32" instead of 1/8" and then use the rivits
> that
> > Kolb sends to attach the rib stitch tape. (after all, since you rib
> stitched
>
> This sounds like a pretty good idea, but it's too late for me probably. I
> asked Dennis about the cracking problems just before I installed my Lexan
> and he told me that they use a #30 drill and the aluminum "sealing" rivets.
> He said they don't have any trouble with cracking. Several of mine are
> forming the "star cracking" problem but there's no rhyme or reason to which
> ones do it. Some are under a bit of stress where the Lexan is being bent
> some, but others are not. Some of the rivets that are under the most
> stress aren't cracking at all.
>
> A question: None of my cracks have exceeded about 1/8 inch so far. Is it
> likely that drilling out the rivet and enlarging the hole would help, or is
> too late since the cracks have already begun?
>
> Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Neilsen <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
Subject: | Re: Mklll 17 gal gas tank -Reply |
The aluminum tank sounds great but it is behind the
CG in a MKIII. I understand you can actually carry
more weight when you are tail heavy BUT it can bite
you. My plane has a VW engine which makes it tail
heavy already and the big tank would be asking for
trouble. If you have any one or more of the following
check your CG limits carefully:
Heavy engine (VW, 912 etc.)
A big fuel tank mounted aft of CG
A shortened fuselage boom tube
Fly solo and you are light
Be carefull out there.
Rick Neilsen
VW powered MKIII 99.5% done.
>>> 08/26/97 09:57pm >>>
Noel,
The factory officers the 17 gal custom built (for the
Mk3) aluminum gas tank
for $400.00. I think this makes the Mk3 a complete
plane. However, I would
think the heavier payload calls for the Rotax 912.
Thanks,
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Howard G. Penny" <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se> |
Subject: | RE:Mklll 17 gal gas tank -Reply |
A shortened fuselage boom will actually improve your CG problem.
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/hpenny
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Neilsen [SMTP:neilsenr(at)state.mi.us]
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 1997 9:13 AM
To: kolb(at)intrig.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Mklll 17 gal gas tank -Reply
The aluminum tank sounds great but it is behind the
CG in a MKIII. I understand you can actually carry
more weight when you are tail heavy BUT it can bite
you. My plane has a VW engine which makes it tail
heavy already and the big tank would be asking for
trouble. If you have any one or more of the following
check your CG limits carefully:
Heavy engine (VW, 912 etc.)
A big fuel tank mounted aft of CG
A shortened fuselage boom tube
Fly solo and you are light
Be carefull out there.
Rick Neilsen
VW powered MKIII 99.5% done.
>>> 08/26/97 09:57pm >>>
Noel,
The factory officers the 17 gal custom built (for the
Mk3) aluminum gas tank
for $400.00. I think this makes the Mk3 a complete
plane. However, I would
think the heavier payload calls for the Rotax 912.
Thanks,
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Neilsen <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
Subject: | RE:Mklll 17 gal gas tank -Reply -Reply |
Well.... NO. The aft limit of the CG is determined by
the ability of a elevator to lift the tail in a stalled
condition to get out of a stall. There are two variables
in the power of the tail. One is the size of the elevator
and the other is the length of the fuselage boom tube.
If you shorten the fuselage boom tube the weight of
the tail will decrease BUT the leverage that the
elevator uses to reduce the wings angle of attack is
less so the CG aft limit needs to be recalculated.
Everything has tradeoffs so talk to KOLB BEFORE
doing anything like this.
>>> "Howard G. Penny"
08/27/97 09:48am >>>
A shortened fuselage boom will actually improve your
CG problem.
Howard G. Penny EAA # 168877
Raleigh, NC Kolb SlingShot # SS-007
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se Sonerai IILS # 0010
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/hpenny
/* --------------------------------------------------------- */
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
Subject: | RE: inspection questions |
I'm pretty sure you don't need an anti-collision light, though I think
its a good idea.
I had no markings on my instruments, explaining that I was waiting for
first flight before the green arc, yellow arc, etc. I had the marking
kit, though, and the inspector was satisfied.
My inspector never mentioned the compass correction card.
The markings that he DID look for were the Experimental decal, passenger
warning, etc.
He also looked for fluid capacities and type specifications on cooling,
oil, fuel.
And operational labels on flaps, trim, throttle, choke, etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
> out is from Tony Bingelis's book "The Sportplane Builder" where he says
that
> a 24" square sheet of 1/8" thick plexiglas will expand and contract by
1/8"
> through a 100 degree temp range. Consequently he strongly advocates
drilling
> the holes in the plastic to a very noticable oversize...3/8" for a 3/16"
> screw and then using a round head screw with a large flange, or a washer
> with a rubber washer underneath it to cushion it. If we are using a 1/8"
> rivit does that mean we should drill the Lexan with a 3/16" hole? If the
> rivit had a big enough head it would probably be a good idea since I am
> inclined to think that the star shaped cracks are caused by the expansion
of
> the rivit in the Lexan hole as the rivit is squeezed.
Thanks to all for their advice about inspection and Lexan problems. This
expansion theory is probably the answer to my cracking (I have the book
too- should have read it). The smaller pieces of Lexan haven't cracked at
all, but the canopy is having problems. The SS canopy is a large piece of
material and the majority of the cracks are around the corners where the
canopy frame can't give. I'll continue to watch this, and maybe try to
stop a couple of them. Unfortunately, there are so many cracks for each
hole that it would be impossible to stop drill any of them until they
extend and spread out.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | "CG" and lexan cracks |
You guys talk about the fuel weight pushing the CG rearward, but in my
calculations it is at (only) a 19.5 inch arm. For my Mkiii it shifts the
CG only 1/2% of wing cord, from empty to full tanks. In other words, flying
solo, full of fuel the CG is at 36.5% of wing cord,, and when the tanks have
only one gallon left the CG has moved to 37% of wing cord. So isn't the fuel
in this case actually moving the CG forward instead of back as other guys
(and the Kolb manual) suggest? Tell me what I've done wrong if you can.
A question about the Lexan cracks, for those unfortunate to have them:
Am I understanding correctly that the cracks have appeared BEFORE flight in
some cases? For those cases, has the aircraft been out in the sun or
experienced a large temperature swing? My own lexan has no cracks but it
has not experienced the vibration of flight, nor has it been out in the sun
because it is still in its cozy workshop that never changes temperature.
I know I did not drill the holes bigger than the #30 drill, and cannot remember
if they are #30 or 1/8". So far no cracks, but if you guys think the temp
change had some effect on those that did crack, I will drill them all out now
before they crack.
Lexan, (if I remember correctly) is like our polyester fabric in that it
expands in the cold and shrinks in the relative high temps. Correct me if
I am wrong, but this is the opposite of aluminum and steel, right? So you
pull your plane out into the sun and you have an expanding rivet in a hole
thru Lexan which is shrinking due to the heat. Am I on to something?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ron.b(at)cheerful.com" <rgbsr(at)aimnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: "CG" and lexan cracks |
On Wed, 27 Aug 1997, Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
> Date: Wed, 27 Aug 97 10:04:08 CDT
> From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: "CG" and lexan cracks
>
> You guys talk about the fuel weight pushing the CG rearward, but in my
> calculations it is at (only) a 19.5 inch arm. For my Mkiii it shifts the
> CG only 1/2% of wing cord, from empty to full tanks. In other words, flying
> solo, full of fuel the CG is at 36.5% of wing cord,, and when the tanks have
> only one gallon left the CG has moved to 37% of wing cord. So isn't the fuel
> in this case actually moving the CG forward instead of back as other guys
> (and the Kolb manual) suggest? Tell me what I've done wrong if you can.
SNip
If it goes from 36.5% to 37%, that is moving the CG aft. I am not familiar
with Kolb aircraft but if the tank is behind the center of gravity, adding
fuel will move the CG aft and burning fuel will move it foraward.
36.5% CG sounds a bit high but then I don't know the manufacturers limits
for your aircraft. Are we talking percent of CG or in inches of CG? That
would make a difference. 16-32% CD equates to 64-72 inches from the
datum point on my aircraft. Datum point is considered the center of the
forward rudder pedal swivel bolts.
Best regards,
Ron B.
Ron Blaylock - USN (retired)
< ron.b(at)cheerful.com > Living in San Jose, California
< rblaylock(at)mail.arc.nasa.gov > Flying from Lodi, California
Trained by Ultralights of Sacramento, California
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: "CG" and lexan cracks |
Jim,
In my case, the cracks appeared the next day after I installed the canopy
Lexan. The engine hasn't been run with the Lexan in place so no real
vibration has occurred. The plane hasn't been moved from the garage
either, but the temp swing has been from about 70 to 100.
As for the expansion theory of cracking, I was thinking more along the
lines of the Lexan growing and shrinking in size and trying to push or pull
on the rivets, rather than the hole just getting tighter around the rivet.
As I mentioned, the SS has a huge canopy, and if this problem will exist on
any Kolb, this is it :-( For some reference of size, the four edges of the
canopy measure approximately 31 (front), 36 (side), 63 (rear), and 36
(side) inches.
If I were doing it again (and hopefully I won't be), I would drill the
Lexan to at least 5/16 and use the fabric rivets.
Rusty
----------
> From: Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: "CG" and lexan cracks
> Date: Wednesday, August 27, 1997 10:04 AM
> A question about the Lexan cracks, for those unfortunate to have them:
> Am I understanding correctly that the cracks have appeared BEFORE flight
in
> some cases? For those cases, has the aircraft been out in the sun or
> experienced a large temperature swing? My own lexan has no cracks but it
> has not experienced the vibration of flight, nor has it been out in the
sun
> because it is still in its cozy workshop that never changes temperature.
> I know I did not drill the holes bigger than the #30 drill, and cannot
remember
> if they are #30 or 1/8". So far no cracks, but if you guys think the
temp
> change had some effect on those that did crack, I will drill them all out
now
> before they crack.
> Lexan, (if I remember correctly) is like our polyester fabric in that
it
> expands in the cold and shrinks in the relative high temps. Correct me
if
> I am wrong, but this is the opposite of aluminum and steel, right? So
you
> pull your plane out into the sun and you have an expanding rivet in a
hole
> thru Lexan which is shrinking due to the heat. Am I on to something?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | edk(at)primenet.com (EDWARD D. KNESL) |
Subject: | Mark III changes |
Hi guys,
I posted list of changes on MY airplane and you went nuts!
I did not ask you for approval or comments and I do not want you
to copy my modifications. It was published on request by somone else.
Keep up the good work and keep us informrd about your earth shaking
events from your garage. I am dying to learn that you had to drill
off five pop rivets just before nine of the last night and the morning
coffee was just right.
Well I have better things to do than typing ...
Sincerely,
Edward Knesl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
Subject: | Re: "CG" and lexan cracks |
> From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Lexan growing and shrinking in size and trying to push or pull
> on the rivets, rather than the hole just getting tighter around the rivet.
I'll almost bet it's the rivet mandrel expanding in the close
tolerance hole when the rivet is set and providing instant mechanical
strain.
> As I mentioned, the SS has a huge canopy, and if this problem will exist on
> any Kolb, this is it :-( For some reference of size, the four edges of the
> canopy measure approximately 31 (front), 36 (side), 63 (rear), and 36
> (side) inches.
FS2 ......40 front , 38 side, 84 rear..........no cracks. All drilled
with #30 and SS rivets used.
Bottom line....when materials with different coefficients of thermal
expansion are bolted, riveted, bonded, crimped, pressed, welded, or
fastened by any method that prevents relative movement between parts,
thermal stress may exist.
Coefficient (expressed as in./in./degFx 10 to the -5th) of linear
thermal expansion of steel is 0.6. For acrylic it's 3.8.
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
Elmore City OK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
Subject: | Re: "CG" and lexan cracks |
> From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
> I know I did not drill the holes bigger than the #30 drill, and cannot remember
> if they are #30 or 1/8". So far no cracks,
I'm with Jim....drilled all mine with #30 and no cracks.
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
Elmore City OK
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: "CG" and lexan cracks |
From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
Jim
If you aren't sure about the size drill bit you used I would , sure
take a close look at it
Right now it would be so easy to do like RUSSELL said and drill it out
to at least a #30 , and then maybe just a little more. I just replaced
all the lexan in my M III and that is what I did I should of had don
this the first time . I would of been a $ 100.00 richer and had a full
day in the air instead of in the shop widdling out lexan.
Rick Libersat
writes:
> You guys talk about the fuel weight pushing the CG rearward, but in
>my
>calculations it is at (only) a 19.5 inch arm. For my Mkiii it shifts
>the
>CG only 1/2% of wing cord, from empty to full tanks. In other words,
>flying
>solo, full of fuel the CG is at 36.5% of wing cord,, and when the
>tanks have
>only one gallon left the CG has moved to 37% of wing cord. So isn't
>the fuel
>in this case actually moving the CG forward instead of back as other
>guys
>(and the Kolb manual) suggest? Tell me what I've done wrong if you
>can.
> A question about the Lexan cracks, for those unfortunate to have
>them:
>Am I understanding correctly that the cracks have appeared BEFORE
>flight in
>some cases? For those cases, has the aircraft been out in the sun or
>experienced a large temperature swing? My own lexan has no cracks but
>it
>has not experienced the vibration of flight, nor has it been out in
>the sun
>because it is still in its cozy workshop that never changes
>temperature.
>I know I did not drill the holes bigger than the #30 drill, and cannot
>remember
>if they are #30 or 1/8". So far no cracks, but if you guys think the
>temp
>change had some effect on those that did crack, I will drill them all
>out now
>before they crack.
> Lexan, (if I remember correctly) is like our polyester fabric in
>that it
>expands in the cold and shrinks in the relative high temps. Correct
>me if
>I am wrong, but this is the opposite of aluminum and steel, right? So
>you
>pull your plane out into the sun and you have an expanding rivet in a
>hole
>thru Lexan which is shrinking due to the heat. Am I on to something?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Re: inspection questions |
On your gauges which you mark an operating range (yellow, green, red)
directly on the glass, you will need to place a short line (usually
white) on the glass to the case. This is to provide an indication if
the glass has rotated within the case. This line can be white tape or
paint.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: inspection questions
Date: 8/27/97 9:49 AM
Hi,
In going over the last of the pre-inspection details, I came across a
couple of questions.
1- If you had your inspection after about March 1996, were you required to
have an anti-collision light? I was under the impression that this was
only a night requirement, but now I'm not so sure. Will they make you have
one if you don't have an electrical system?
2- Do you have to have a compass correction card? I don't know the correct
name of this, but it's the card that shows errors due to installation
factors. Until the plane gets to an airport where there's a compass rose,
I can't imagine how you would be expected to fill this card out anyway. If
I have to come up with some numbers, I will though.
In general I can't find anything that gives the required markings for the
instruments. I know I've seen it, but now I don't remember where. I just
plan to mark everything..
Thanks,
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu (Jon Steiger) |
Subject: | FireFly gross weight? |
I was going through some of my weight and balance stuff, and
it dawned on me that I never checked the gross weight. I couldn't
find anything about gross weight in the blueprints or the
builder's manual, but I looked at some magazine reviews and some
FireFly promotional literature from Kolb, and they all say 500lbs.
Ever since day one, I have been flying at a weight of about
520-530lbs. :-( Is that 500lb figure accurate? Is Kolb being
ultra-conservative maybe?
Basically, there's no way I can trim 30lbs off the airplane.
(Or myself.) ;-) So, I am faced with two choices. Continue
to fly the airplane, or sell it. I *definitely* don't like
choice #2. :-(
How much of a problem is flying over gross? Would 50-60lbs
over gross be a problem? I've heard of people going on long
cross countries in Mark III's as much as 1,000lb over gross.
(John Hauck maybe?) I'm hoping 500lbs is a conservative
estimate...
The reason I was checking my weight and balance was to
see what effect carrying 5 or 6 more gallons as "luggage"
for refueling on the ground would have on my CG. My CG
is great; right smack dab in the middle, but with that
load, my weight would be about 560lbs. I'd like to go
on some cross countries, but with 5 gallons, I'm limited
to 2 hours, and if I can't carry more fuel, that pretty
much shoots down that whole idea. Needless to say, I'm
pretty bummed out right now. :-(
Thanks very much in advance to anyone who can give me any
information or advice!
-Jon-
.--- stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Lubitz" <elubitz(at)ionline.net> |
Subject: | control stick mod |
elubitz@ionline.net http://www.ionline.net/~elubitz
Hi;
A while back some people expressed an interest in one way to modify the
center stick so that the pilot in the left seat could hold the stick
comfortably in his left hand. Keep in mind that the only tubing dimension
that is critical is the vertical tube that slides over the stick; it must
be a snug fit. The rest of the dimentions are what I happen to have used.
19 inch long piece of 4130, 5/8 inch OD. Approximately 5 inches in from
each end bend the tube down 30 deg. At the center of the long tube place a
2 inch 3/4 inch OD (or whatever size tube that will sleave snuggly over
your control stick) see crude drawing below. Then rotate the bent tube
approximately 15 to 20 degrees forward and weld in place. Slide short tube
over the stick and lock in place with an AN3 bolt.
If you try this or some variation of it please let me know what you think.
_______________
/ I \
/ \
Well you get the idea ; I hope.
Ed Lubitz
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | Turn-buckles on rudder peddles |
Is there a reason that Kolb does not put turn-buckles on rudder cable
to permit tightening and setting the alignment and vertical position
of the rudder pedals.
Would it hurt anything to add them, that is will they endure the
forces.
Jerry Bidle
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
Subject: | Checklist for Mark III |
This is a personal checklist I developed for my Mark III, which now has
over 30 hours on it.
Most of it came from Cliff Stripling; Dan at Kolb added several
improvements.
I'd appreciate any comments or suggestions for improvement.
==================================
Checklist for Mark III / Rotax 912 / EIS
Wing Unfolding
( ) Remove trailering brace bars from tail
( ) Install left and right lift struts on cage bottom, insert clevis and
safety pins and rest on tires
For each wing:
( ) Remove retaining clips one side at a time, then open
wing (keeping eyes on aileron and flap control horns as they unfold and
deploy) and rest the wing tip on a foam pad.
( ) Install the main spar tab on the clevis pin installed in the cage
connection
( ) Being careful not to let the spar tab slip off while
walking down the leading edge of the wing, remove and install the clevis
and safety pin through main spar tab
( ) Lift wings carefully by leading edge spar, lift
struts up with foot and install clevis and safety pins
( ) Remove flap retaining cord, hook up flaps, and install safety pins
( ) Remove aileron retaining cord, hook up ailerons, and install safety
pins
( ) Open tail section, adjust trim to full forward position and move
stick to neutral attitude
( ) Install wing nut and safety pin in tail section brace wires
( ) Check to make certain key is not in ignition, then slide wing gap
seal back.
( ) Connect both electrical plugs. Tighten velcro straps left and right
Preflight
( ) Check fluid levels, lines, and caps (gas, oil, coolant, brake fluid)
( ) Check fuel pump for leaks
( ) Check oil reservoir brackets and welds for cracks and security
( ) Check engine mounts, accessories, and sensor wires
( ) Check parachute, bridal, activation assembly
( ) Check spark plug wires and carburetor attachment
( ) Check exhaust and muffler for cracks, safety wire, security
( ) Check gap seal is attached and secure
( ) Check for any loose items in engine area that could go into prop
( ) Check prop bolts and condition
( ) Check wings, and flaps, ailerons - surfaces and hinges - for damage
( ) Check lift struts (4 safety pins)
( ) Check control rods and bolts (4 safety pins)
( ) Check wing root bolts and pins (2 safety pins)
( ) Check landing gear, tires, brakes
( ) Check tail brace wires, wing nut, and safety pin
( ) Check tail surfaces and hinges for damage
( ) Check rudder trim tab for cracks around rivets
( ) Check tail wheel chains and springs
( ) Check windshield and doors for clarity and cracks
( ) Check door hinges
Before Engine Start
( ) Check weather (1 800 WX BRIEF or by radio)
( ) Check flight gear (headsets, intercom, radio, maps, glasses, camera,
etc.)
( ) Secure any loose items in cabin
( ) Check controls for full and smooth operation and interior fittings
( ) Set altimeter to correct barometric setting or field elevation
( ) Set trim appropriately
( ) Remove safety pin on parachute activation handle
( ) Close and check doors
( ) Turn intercom on and check operation
( ) Check surrounding area for security from prop blast
Engine Start
( ) Feet on brakes
( ) Choke to appropriate setting
( ) Throttle to IDLE
( ) Master switch on
( ) "Clear" Prop
( ) Ignition switch to Start until engine catches
( ) Adjust choke and throttle for smooth operation
( ) Turn on EIS immediately after start
( ) Strobes on as appropriate
( ) Determine active runway
Pre Takeoff
( ) Check oil temperature at least 120 degrees
( ) Check other engine readings
( ) Mag check at 3500 RPM
( ) Choke off
( ) Check Strobes, Trim setting
( ) Controls free, clear, and correct
( ) Check for traffic, announce intentions as appropriate
Takeoff
( ) Rotate at 35 MPH
( ) Climb to 1000 AGL at full power, 50 MPH
Landing
( ) Announce intentions as appropriate
( ) Approach speed 55 MPH
After Landing
( ) Replace flaps if used
Shut down
( ) Record engine time
( ) Turn off intercom, radio
( ) Increase engine speed to 2000-2200 RPM
( ) Turn off EIS, strobes, master
( ) Kill engine with mags
( ) Replace parachute safety pin
( ) Log flight time
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Welded Aluminum Fuel Tank for Mark-III |
Thursday, August 28, 1997
There has been some discussion recently regarding fuel capacity and the
center of gravity for the TwinStar Mark-III aircraft. Kolb has made and
installed several 16 gal. welded aluminum fuel tanks, these appear to be
working out well. The tank does not extend back any further than the 5 gal
tanks, so the CG is not shifted further aft. Viewed from the top, the tank
is shaped like a trapezoid, filling the space out to the sides, matching the
angle of the cage. The tank has a tunnel in the bottom to provide clearance
for the aileron torque tube. There are two fittings in the bottom of the
tank, one on each side of the tunnel, these are connected together with a
T. There is a fitting in the top of the tank for venting and/or installing
a sight gauge. The tank is available for $400 for the tank itself, and $50
extra if you want us to install it in your new cage.
Retrofits should be relatively easy: you need to cut out 3 tubes behind
the
seats, this allows the tank to be installed from the cockpit. The tubes are
then riveted back in place with inserts to reinforce the joint. If the tank
would need to be removed in the future, you would simply drill out the rivets
and remove the tubes, and then the tank. No fabric would need to be cut to
retrofit the tank. If you have any additional questions, please let me know.
Dennis L. Souder
President Kolb Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Subject: | Re: Turn-buckles on rudder peddles |
At 12:02 AM 8/29/97 cst, you wrote:
> Is there a reason that Kolb does not put turn-buckles on rudder cable
> to permit tightening and setting the alignment and vertical position
> of the rudder pedals.
>
> Would it hurt anything to add them, that is will they endure the
> forces.
>
> Jerry Bidle
>
As long as they don't get in a bind so that they arn't bent in any
way at the extremes of travel, they will last longer than you will. But
consider if you have them at the feets end of the rudder cables, there is a
possibility that you will snag your shoes/socks/pantlegs/skin on the safety
wiring that the turnbuckles will need , or if you use the turnbuckles with
wire retaining clips, you could dislodge the clips. Maybe that's why Kolb
doesn't use them?
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P(42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Prange" <evoice(at)acton.com> |
Subject: | Re: Welded Aluminum Fuel Tank for Mark-III |
I installed the optional 17 gallon tank and am glad it's installed but I
spent a considerable amount of time figuring out how to secure the tank to
the frame to my liking. I would recommend to anyone who purchases this tank
to make sure it's cleaned out thoroughly by rubbing with solvent and not
just swished around inside the tank.
I picked up a lot of crud that wasn't easily seen.
Doug Prange
Lincoln, Nebraska
----------
From: DLSOUDER(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Welded Aluminum Fuel Tank for Mark-III
Date: Thursday, August 28, 1997 2:58 PM
Thursday, August 28, 1997
There has been some discussion recently regarding fuel capacity and the
center of gravity for the TwinStar Mark-III aircraft. Kolb has made and
installed several 16 gal. welded aluminum fuel tanks, these appear to be
working out well. The tank does not extend back any further than the 5 gal
tanks, so the CG is not shifted further aft. Viewed from the top, the tank
is shaped like a trapezoid, filling the space out to the sides, matching
the
angle of the cage. The tank has a tunnel in the bottom to provide
clearance
for the aileron torque tube. There are two fittings in the bottom of the
tank, one on each side of the tunnel, these are connected together with a
T. There is a fitting in the top of the tank for venting and/or
installing
a sight gauge. The tank is available for $400 for the tank itself, and $50
extra if you want us to install it in your new cage.
Retrofits should be relatively easy: you need to cut out 3 tubes behind
the
seats, this allows the tank to be installed from the cockpit. The tubes
are
then riveted back in place with inserts to reinforce the joint. If the
tank
would need to be removed in the future, you would simply drill out the
rivets
and remove the tubes, and then the tank. No fabric would need to be cut to
retrofit the tank. If you have any additional questions, please let me
know.
Dennis L. Souder
President Kolb Aircraft
----------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
Subject: | Optional aluminum gas tank |
How much does the aluminum gas tank weigh?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tswartz(at)prolog.net (Terry Swartz) |
Subject: | N-number, battery cable gauge |
I finally recieved my N-number. App was mailed priorty mail on 6/18/97.
It's hard to imagine why it should talke over 2 months. I made a couple
calls two weeks ago and the said it would be coming right out.
What gauge wire do I need from battery to starter on the 912?
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Prange" <evoice(at)acton.com> |
William:
I took delivery in August of 95 (quick build) and the first flight was in
may 97. So far I've logged 28 hours with no problems to speak of.
It's a blast to fly and I'm not at all disappointed in the airplane or
factory support given.
I chose Kolb for several reasons. Length of time in business, resale value,
high wing, low build time, the Stits wing as opposed to a sailcloth
covering, and the Kolb provided the type of flying I prefer.
Two seat because my wife insisted.
I believe Kolb is an excellent choice.
----------
> From: William Kautter <wkautter(at)gtco.com>
> To: 'evoice(at)acton.com'
> Subject: Kolb
> Date: Friday, August 29, 1997 1:32 PM
>
> Doug,
>
> I am considering building a Firestar or a Mark III. I was looking for
> Kolb Mark III info and came across your WEB page. Have you finished yet?
> If so, what do you think of it? If you started over knowing what you do
> would you have chose the Mark 3 and why?
>
> Best regards,
>
> Bill Kautter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jon Steiger <stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu> |
Subject: | Various FireFly questions |
I've got a list of FireFly questions that have been building up;
I've been meaning to check with the list about these. Any help or
information anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated. Most of
these questions came about from talking to people at a recent fly-in.
----
A fellow Kolb owner told me that the ring at the very back of the
tail boom is usually riveted in place. There are two bolts in mine, at
three and nine o'clock, but no rivets. Does the FireFly need rivets
there?
A FireFly builder told me that, with the IVO prop, I should have a
spacer in front of the prop, because the prop blades are designed to
flex 5 inches, and the tips could hit the back of my wings. True, or
not a problem?
I heard secondhand from another Kolb person that the engine mount plate
has been the source of some problems. Apparently, the plate that I have,
shaped like:
/---\ /---\
| ------ |
| | (sorry, art isn't my forte')
| ______ |
\---/ \---/
Has been known to crack and have the engine tear up the back of the plane.
Apparently this should be replaced with a rectangular piece (no cut-outs)
which is also thicker. Anyone know anything about this? Is this just for
heavier engines, or is the 447 prone to doing this too?
Would I be wise to install another EGT/CHT guage? Currently, I monitor
the rear EGT port and the rear cylender. Would it be a good idea to
get another and cover all the bases? I do have room in the panel for
another guage.
Speaking of the panel, if I wanted to start over from scratch and
design an entirely new panel, is there another option available besides
getting a new nose cone? Maybe some sort of overlay that would attach
over the existing panel which could be drilled into? If this could be
done without looking really bad, that would be a nice bonus. ;-)
Does anyone fly in the winter with skis? Any reccomendations as to
where I might get some skis or how much they would cost? Also, should
I re-jet for winter flying?
Recently, my EGT guage stopped working. While in the air, I reached
down and jiggled the wires. The needle immediately popped back into the
normal range. It hasn't done anything strange since. Is this a warning
sign of something to come, or just a fluke?
Sorry for all the questions... As I said, they've been building up.
Any help anyone could give me on any of these topics would be great!
Thanks very much in advance!!
-Jon-
.--- stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I have 50 hours on the Firestar 2 and no cracks in the Laxan. I oversized the
holes a bit with a de-burrer after I drilled the holes. They needed to be
de-burred anyways after drilling so it made them just a bit bigger, which is
what I needed.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Watson <psi(at)pivot.net> |
Subject: | Challenger Forum |
I almost hate to ask, but do any of you kolb builders know of a forum
like this one for a challenger builder? I have been reading your tips
and tricks for some time now and think this is a great way to get ideas.
I have not been able to find anything like this group for challengers.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Happy Flying,
Mike Watson
psi(at)pivot.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | Re: Various FireFly questions |
> A FireFly builder told me that, with the IVO prop, I should have a
> spacer in front of the prop, because the prop blades are designed to
> flex 5 inches, and the tips could hit the back of my wings. True, or
> not a problem?
True. Dennis told me that the 5" flex that IVO mentions comes during
startup and shutdown, not really during normal running. During the
break-in of my 503 (not on a FireFly), I couldn't really see much flexing
during the run, but I made sure I had 5" clearance just in case. Get the
spacer if there's any doubt.
> I heard secondhand from another Kolb person that the engine mount
plate
> has been the source of some problems. Apparently, the plate that I have,
> shaped like:
>
> /---\ /---\
> | ------ |
> | | (sorry, art isn't my forte')
> | ______ |
> \---/ \---/
>
> Has been known to crack and have the engine tear up the back of the
plane.
> Apparently this should be replaced with a rectangular piece (no cut-outs)
> which is also thicker. Anyone know anything about this? Is this just
for
> heavier engines, or is the 447 prone to doing this too?
Never heard of this, but I have heard of engines breaking loose due to prop
failures. In the cases that I heard about, the breakage occurred at the
Rotax housing and not the plate or welded mounts. FWIW, my SlingShot mount
is like yours.
> Would I be wise to install another EGT/CHT guage? Currently, I
monitor
> the rear EGT port and the rear cylender. Would it be a good idea to
> get another and cover all the bases? I do have room in the panel for
> another guage.
I would get one if for no other reason than to provide a backup when one
flakes out. It's starting to sound like this is common for EGT's. I've
heard of a couple that Cliff has had go bad, and I lost one sensor during
my break-in. If it hadn't been for the other sensor, I wouldn't have
continued the run.
Good luck,
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Mklll 16 gal gas tank |
Rick,
I'm in Miami Fl, and I haven't got the plane in yet. My partner and I ordered
the quick build wirh the 912 and the new gas tank. I attached a file sent
from the factory about the new 16 gal metal tank, CG etc. It's the first time
I've tried to attach a file, so if you don't get it refer to e-mail dated
8/29....".welded aluminum fuel."
He explanes how to retro-fit the new tank.
Thanks
Rich
Subj: Welded Aluminum Fuel Tank for Mark-III
Date: 97-08-29 01:55:58 EDT
From: DLSOUDER(at)aol.com
Sender: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com
To: kolb(at)intrig.com
Thursday, August 28, 1997
There has been some discussion recently regarding fuel capacity and the
center of gravity for the TwinStar Mark-III aircraft. Kolb has made and
installed several 16 gal. welded aluminum fuel tanks, these appear to be
working out well. The tank does not extend back any further than the 5 gal
tanks, so the CG is not shifted further aft. Viewed from the top, the tank
is shaped like a trapezoid, filling the space out to the sides, matching the
angle of the cage. The tank has a tunnel in the bottom to provide clearance
for the aileron torque tube. There are two fittings in the bottom of the
tank, one on each side of the tunnel, these are connected together with a
T. There is a fitting in the top of the tank for venting and/or installing
a sight gauge. The tank is available for $400 for the tank itself, and $50
extra if you want us to install it in your new cage.
Retrofits should be relatively easy: you need to cut out 3 tubes behind
the
seats, this allows the tank to be installed from the cockpit. The tubes are
then riveted back in place with inserts to reinforce the joint. If the tank
would need to be removed in the future, you would simply drill out the rivets
and remove the tubes, and then the tank. No fabric would need to be cut to
retrofit the tank. If you have any additional questions, please let me know.
Dennis L. Souder
President Kolb Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Mklll 17 gal gas tank -Reply |
Richard,
Thanks for your inpute. Did you read Dennis' response to the "CG" problem?
I'm wondering what you thought....
You wrote:
..."The aluminum tank sounds great but it is behind the
CG in a MKIII. I understand you can actually carry
more weight when you are tail heavy BUT it can bite
you. My plane has a VW engine which makes it tail
heavy already and the big tank would be asking for
trouble. If you have any one or more of the following
check your CG limits carefully:
Heavy engine (VW, 912 etc.)
A big fuel tank mounted aft of CG
A shortened fuselage boom tube
Fly solo and you are light "...
Dennis wrote:
Thursday, August 28, 1997
...."There has been some discussion recently regarding fuel capacity and the
center of gravity for the TwinStar Mark-III aircraft. Kolb has made and
installed several 16 gal. welded aluminum fuel tanks, these appear to be
working out well. The tank does not extend back any further than the 5 gal
tanks, so the CG is not shifted further aft. Viewed from the top, the tank
is shaped like a trapezoid, filling the space out to the sides, matching the
angle of the cage. The tank has a tunnel in the bottom to provide clearance
for the aileron torque tube. There are two fittings in the bottom of the
tank, one on each side of the tunnel, these are connected together with a
T. There is a fitting in the top of the tank for venting and/or installing
a sight gauge. The tank is available for $400 for the tank itself, and $50
extra if you want us to install it in your new cage.
Retrofits should be relatively easy: you need to cut out 3 tubes behind
the
seats, this allows the tank to be installed from the cockpit. The tubes are
then riveted back in place with inserts to reinforce the joint. If the tank
would need to be removed in the future, you would simply drill out the rivets
and remove the tubes, and then the tank. No fabric would need to be cut to
retrofit the tank. If you have any additional questions, please let me know.
"
Dennis L. Souder
President Kolb Aircraft
Thanks for your thoughts on this issue,
Rich Bragassa
lrb1476(at)aol.com
Miami, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sandro Bastien" <sbastien(at)dsuper.net> |
Subject: | Re: Various FireFly questions |
allo Jon
I have few suggestion for you
about your panel, maybe you can put an aluminium sheet over your panel,
attache it with 4 nice looking fastener and drill the holes for the
gages........ maybe 0.032" of thickness would be good.
For the skis, I made of them of alum. square tubing 1"x2" welded in a
shop close to my home and the base of the ski is a plastic ski that cover
snowmobile ski. For my mark 2 there are not too big when there is a lot of
snow and two guys sitting in the airplane, but if your airplane is smaller
a little bit, it would be perfect and cheap.
if you need any detail , let me know
sbastien(at)dsuper.net
170 hrs of fun flying on mark 2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
To All,
Today, I took my Kolb to the N. Tex. UL Pilots Assn. fly-in just NE of
Dallas at Farmersville, Tx. The same fellow hosts the get together each
year about this time at his little 1300' grass strip called Short Stop. I
mention this because he has one of the early Firestar I's... seems like he
said it was serial number 6 and he built it in the mid 80's. It is still
flying just fine and did so today. About 12 planes (2 Kolbs) and 40 people
came. They provided a scrumptious BBQ lunch.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (16 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Subject: | SlingShot is Airworthy |
Greetings,
Well, my inspection went fine. The only problem he found was merely a
suggestion to change the way I safety wired the elevator turnbuckles. I
didn't wrap them the conventional way. Otherwise he didn't find anything
to complain about despite my own stupidity. He asked to see my photos and
builders log after he looked the plane over. I sat him down at the
computer and auto-scrolled through all 500+ pictures, then opened up the
log for him to look at. He just read a handful of entries, but the last
entry was one that he read. That's the entry where I mentioned how I
didn't think the FAA guy would like the seatbelts and the lift strut bolt!
While he was reading it, I told him it wasn't fair to look at anything else
at this point. He just laughed- it was no problem. Thanks again to all
who offered inspection advice. I have a 40 hour test period assigned with
a 25 NM radius of my airport of choice.
I'm leaving tomorrow morning for my trip to Kolb. I'll be out of e-mail
touch for about a week. Hopefully, I'll be able to get the plane moved to
the airport on the 14th then fly whenever the time is right.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Various FireFly questions |
Jon Steiger wrote:
>
> A fellow Kolb owner told me that the ring at the very back of the
> tail boom is usually riveted in place. There are two bolts in mine, at
> three and nine o'clock, but no rivets. Does the FireFly need rivets
> there?
>
Mine is riveted. I suggest that you get a set of blueprints for you
plane.
> A FireFly builder told me that, with the IVO prop, I should have a
> spacer in front of the prop, because the prop blades are designed to
> flex 5 inches, and the tips could hit the back of my wings. True, or
> not a problem?
>
My IVO prop has the spacer, and that is the reason that I heard. I
believe it was from Dennis.
> Would I be wise to install another EGT/CHT guage? Currently, I monitor
> the rear EGT port and the rear cylender. Would it be a good idea to
> get another and cover all the bases? I do have room in the panel for
> another guage.
>
You could install two more senders and a switch or you could move the
sender to the front. I have found that the front runs hotter. With a
single carb, dual intruments may not be necessary.
> Speaking of the panel, if I wanted to start over from scratch and
> design an entirely new panel, is there another option available besides
> getting a new nose cone? Maybe some sort of overlay that would attach
> over the existing panel which could be drilled into? If this could be
> done without looking really bad, that would be a nice bonus. ;-)
>
Kolb has a nice panel that attaches to the pod and even comes pre-wired.
> Recently, my EGT guage stopped working. While in the air, I reached
> down and jiggled the wires. The needle immediately popped back into the
> normal range. It hasn't done anything strange since. Is this a warning
> sign of something to come, or just a fluke?
>
I beleive that it is warning you that you have at least on bad
connection. Unless you fix it, it will probably happen again.
John Jung, PPASEL
Firestar 377,
9 years in ultralighting,
300+ hours in 5 planes,
rebuilding a Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
An old homebuilder trick is to build mounts for an old(or new) pair of
water skis to fit on the aircraft with the appropriate bungees and safety
cables.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Lloyd" <lloyd(at)vermontel.com> |
Hi Gang. I'm trying to buy a Meco migi torch. While I was a Oshkosh this
year I took a workshop from a fellow named Kent ? on forming Aluminum with
an English Wheel and other hand tools. In the workshop he demonstrated
welding aluminum with gas using this very small torch. I had a chance to
use one later in the week and loved it. It weighs very little and is very
small yet uses the same tip sizes that you use on larger torches to weld
typical airframe 4130 thicknesses. My problem is that I failed to get any
literature from this fellow (aks the Tin Man). The guy really has great
skills and is a good instructor. He has several vidio tapes with
instructions in metalworking skills plus he sells these Meco torches and
accessories.
If anyone knows who this fellow is and how I might get in touch with him
please post it.
Thanks,
Tom Lloyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tswartz(at)prolog.net (Terry Swartz) |
Hello everyone
Does it make any difference which cylinders you monitor the EGT on the 912?
I was considering monitoring the back two because there is room to insert
the EGT probes between the gear box and the exhaust. I would make a neater
instalation then to have the probes protruding outward from the exhaust.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jdc6(at)lehigh.edu (John D. Caffrey) |
>Hi Gang. I'm trying to buy a Meco migi torch. While I was a Oshkosh this
>year I took a workshop from a fellow named Kent ? on forming Aluminum with
>an English Wheel and other hand tools. In the workshop he demonstrated
>welding aluminum with gas using this very small torch. I had a chance to
>use one later in the week and loved it. It weighs very little and is very
>small yet uses the same tip sizes that you use on larger torches to weld
>typical airframe 4130 thicknesses. My problem is that I failed to get any
>literature from this fellow (aks the Tin Man). The guy really has great
>skills and is a good instructor. He has several vidio tapes with
>instructions in metalworking skills plus he sells these Meco torches and
>accessories.
>If anyone knows who this fellow is and how I might get in touch with him
>please post it.
>Thanks,
>
>Tom Lloyd
>
I purchased one of Kent's videos and recently received his catalog.
Kent White
TM Technologies
P.O. Box 429
NSJ, CA 95960
(916) 292-3506
John Caffrey
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Lloyd" <lloyd(at)vermontel.com> |
Thanks, I've ordered what I need. Thanks for the help finding him.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tswartz(at)prolog.net (Terry Swartz) |
Subject: | Electrical questions |
I've just about finished the wiring of the 912 on my M-III but I have a
couple questions. The rotax manual shows two circuit diagrams for the 912,
one that includes a capacitor and one that shows the capacitor optional.
According to the manual, the capacitor is to ensure control function of the
regulator if the battery fails. Are all of you with 912's adding the capacitor?
The ignition switch I got from Kolb says you need a surge suppressor diode
on the solenoid. What is that for? Is everyone putting it on?
Thanks
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Electrical questions |
From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
TERRY
I WONT BE TO MUCH HELP BUT I WILL TRY TO HELP ON MY 582 I HAD TO
USE A CAP. WITH THE FULL WAVE RECTIFIER . REASON BEING IS THAT WHEN YOU
LOOK AT THIS VOLTAGE IT IS VERY SPIKIE NO CONSINSITY WITH THE CAP IT
WILL STORE THE VOLTAGE THAT THE HOBBS NEEDS TO RUN . WELL ANYWAY GOOD
LUCK SOMEONE SHOULD KNOW IF NOT I WOULD NOT WASTE ANOTHER SECOND AND
CALL ROTAX LOOK ON THE BACK COVER OF YOUR MANUAL AND GET THE # TALK TO
ERNIE LEPP HE IS A REAL EASY MAN TO TALK TO AND HE WILL HAVE THE ANSWER
YOU ARE LOOKING FOR
RICK
writes:
>I've just about finished the wiring of the 912 on my M-III but I have
>a
>couple questions. The rotax manual shows two circuit diagrams for the
>912,
>one that includes a capacitor and one that shows the capacitor
>optional.
>According to the manual, the capacitor is to ensure control function
>of the
>regulator if the battery fails. Are all of you with 912's adding the
>capacitor?
>
>The ignition switch I got from Kolb says you need a surge suppressor
>diode
>on the solenoid. What is that for? Is everyone putting it on?
>
>Thanks
>
>Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Hours to assemble a wing. |
24 hours is how long it took me to assemble a wing.
I offer this information, because it is the kind of answer that I was
never able to get before I started this project. The answers always were
like "everybody works at different speeds" or "I didn't keep track that
close". I took vacation this week to get my project completed through
painting before the weather gets too cold in Wisconsin. So I was able to
work straight through, uninterupted. I am building a Firestar II.
Actually, I am rebuilding one that the former owner had crashed, but the
only airframe parts salvaged were the horizontal tail surfaces and the
right wing and both ailerons. Building the wing was very satisfying.
Some people have told me that they enjoyed building as much as flying
and I had my doubts. But building the wing reminded me of the fun that I
used to have building model airplanes, only much more so. On the
flip-side, I have had just about my fill of drilling and riveting. I'm
glad that I don't have to build two wings.
John Jung, PPASEL
Firestar 377,
9 years in ultralighting,
300+ hours in 5 planes,
rebuilding a Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
It took about one full day per wing on the MKIII, plus another day
for details, wing tips, etc. The basic airplane was built in three months.
Covering and painting, plumbing (redundant fuel supply), wiring (full
electrical, avionics, lights) etc. took another 14 months. The kit was easy
and pleasant, but it's still true, "The last 10% of the airplane takes 90%
of the time"
Richard Pike
Technical Counselor EAA442
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Wood <woodjt(at)nosc.mil> |
Hi Tom;
I received the following information from a friend. Hope this information is
helpful in locating your source for the aluminum welding.
John
Xref: news rec.crafts.metalworking:64614
Path:
news!newshub.nosc.mil!ihnp4.ucsd.edu!nntp.info.ucla.edu!newsfeed1-hme1!newsf
eed.internetmci.com!4.1.16.34!cpk-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com
!ix.netcom.com!news
From: Mark Forss <mforss(at)popd.ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Welding Aluminum
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 08:46:00 -0500
<19970902115001.HAA13803(at)ladder01.news.aol.com> <340C63CF.7F4E(at)sprintmail.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: app-wi3-16.ix.netcom.com
If looking to weld AL, Contact TM Technologies 916-292-3506
I saw Kent the owner gas weld Al sheet and other things with ease
at the EAA convention in Oshkosh. They have special rod and flux
and a small booklet to tell you how to do it. In addition they
have a really nice hand torch the sells for under $100. Call them
for a catalog!
Mark Forss
Kiel Wisconsin
>Hi Gang. I'm trying to buy a Meco migi torch. While I was a Oshkosh this
>year I took a workshop from a fellow named Kent ? on forming Aluminum with
>an English Wheel and other hand tools. In the workshop he demonstrated
>welding aluminum with gas using this very small torch. I had a chance to
>use one later in the week and loved it. It weighs very little and is very
>small yet uses the same tip sizes that you use on larger torches to weld
>typical airframe 4130 thicknesses. My problem is that I failed to get any
>literature from this fellow (aks the Tin Man). The guy really has great
>skills and is a good instructor. He has several vidio tapes with
>instructions in metalworking skills plus he sells these Meco torches and
>accessories.
>If anyone knows who this fellow is and how I might get in touch with him
>please post it.
>Thanks,
>
>Tom Lloyd
>
>
>
*********************************
*
John Wood *
Network Engineer *
woodjt(at)nosc.mil *
619-553-2273, fax 619-553-5919 *
*********************************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Rechargeable drill. |
To Group,
Here is a building tip: Use a rechargeable drill, even if you have
power available. I would not have guessed that it would be better, but I
got a rechargeable a few years ago because I have no power in my hanger.
I started to use it around the house and garage to save time stringing
an extension cord. I found that it will do all but the heavy work,
large drills or hole saws in steel. But the time savings and convinence
of having no cord is significant. For building the Firestar, my
rechargable drill has been invaluable. Now let me qualify my remarks. I
have a Skill Top Gun II with two 12 volt batteries. The battery was
always charged up before I needed it. I previously had a Skill with a
built-in 9.6 volt battery. It impressed me enough that I bought the Top
Gun II. But one battery was not really adequate. While the 9.6 volt
performed very well on a full charge, I was stopped for a long wait once
the battery was down. And if the drill had been sitting for a month
without being used or charged, the battery didn't last long at all. So
two large 12 volt batteries are the way to go.
John Jung, PPASEL
Firestar 377,
9 years in ultralighting,
300+ hours in 5 planes,
rebuilding a Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Rechargeable drill. |
On Fri, 5 Sep 1997, John Jung wrote:
> To Group,
> Here is a building tip: Use a rechargeable drill, even if you have
> power available. I would not have guessed that it would be better, but I
> got a rechargeable a few years ago because I have no power in my hanger.
I recall it often being handy to use both my chord and chordless drills.
For example, I'd have a small bit in one, and the 1/8" bit in the other.
Especially in making the ribs, this allowed me to match drill a few
small holes the size of the rivet stems, poke in a rivet stem to hold
the gusset in the right place, and come back around with the 1/8" drill.
This method was especially helpful in preventing a single pass 1/8 drill
from wondering off the top of the 5/16" AL tube.
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
If you are planning to paint the airplane with a normal compressor,
buy it now, and spring for an air drill too. I already had a compressor, and
a friend who was formerly an A&P loaned me his air drill. Rigged up a
lightweight hose over head of the work table and loved it. VERY light weight
and handy. Kept the 1/8" bit in it and the electric at another spot for
other sizes. Never used a cordless, so can't compare, but air sure beat
electric (corded).
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Clive Hatcher <CliveHatcher(at)compuserve.com> |
Subject: | Electrical questions |
On Sept 4 Terry wrote :-
>I've just about finished the wiring of the 912 on my M-III but I have a
>couple questions. The rotax manual shows two circuit diagrams for the
912,
>one that includes a capacitor and one that shows the capacitor optional.=
>According to the manual, the capacitor is to ensure control function of
the
>regulator if the battery fails. Are all of you with 912's adding the
capacitor?
>The ignition switch I got from Kolb says you need a surge suppressor dio=
de
>on the solenoid. What is that for? Is everyone putting it on?
>Thanks
>Terry
Terry,
The reason for a surge suppressor diode ( sometimes called a flywheel
diode)
on a solenoid is that when you turn the power (voltage) off from a soleno=
id
the
collapsing magnetic field generates a negative voltage spike (this could
be
100 volts or more). The surge suppressor diode short circuits the spike a=
nd
stops the voltage rising more than about 0.6 volts.
The main purpose of the surge suppressor diode is to protect any other
electrical
equipment that you may have connected to the same circuit.
BTW if you fit one make sure that it is fitted the right way around.
Clive Hatcher - Twinstar Mark III G - MYLN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tswartz(at)prolog.net (Terry Swartz) |
Subject: | Electrical questions |
>On Sept 4 Terry wrote :-
>
>>I've just about finished the wiring of the 912 on my M-III but I have a
>>couple questions. The rotax manual shows two circuit diagrams for the
>912,
>>one that includes a capacitor and one that shows the capacitor optional.
>>According to the manual, the capacitor is to ensure control function of
>the
>>regulator if the battery fails. Are all of you with 912's adding the
>capacitor?
>
>>The ignition switch I got from Kolb says you need a surge suppressor diode
>>on the solenoid. What is that for? Is everyone putting it on?
>
>>Thanks
>
>>Terry
>---------------------------------------------
>Terry,
>
>The reason for a surge suppressor diode ( sometimes called a flywheel
>diode)
>on a solenoid is that when you turn the power (voltage) off from a solenoid
>the
>collapsing magnetic field generates a negative voltage spike (this could be
>
>100 volts or more). The surge suppressor diode short circuits the spike and
>
>stops the voltage rising more than about 0.6 volts.
>
>The main purpose of the surge suppressor diode is to protect any other
>electrical
>equipment that you may have connected to the same circuit.
>
>BTW if you fit one make sure that it is fitted the right way around.
>
>Clive Hatcher - Twinstar Mark III G - MYLN
>-
>
>
Clive
Thanks for the response. Could I get one Radio Shack? What would the specs
need to be for the diode?
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Hale <mhale(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
Subject: | technical counselor wanted |
I am building a firestar two in Kitsap County WA., just West of Seattle,
does anyone know a EAA technical counselor near me?
Also, has anyone put position lights on one of these? please make
suggestions on type of lights and power source.
Thanks,
Mike Hale
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wayne Welsh <flight(at)mail.on.rogers.wave.ca> |
Looking into buying a used firestar II. Any suggestions on what to look
for on inspection. I have ultralight experience in a tri gear but no
tail dragger at all. What would anyone recommend for flight training?
Is the Firestar easily fully enclosed as an "after built"? What are the
flight characteristics, especially on take off and landing? Does the
Firestar make a acceptable float plane?
Thanks for any information.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bruce Schimmel <bruce(at)schimmel.com> |
I got a FS2 for sale. And with a single passenger, the 503 ought to be ab
le to float reasonably well. I'm located in Delaware.
On Mon, 8 Sep 1997, Wayne Welsh wrote:
> Looking into buying a used firestar II. Any suggestions on what to look
> for on inspection. I have ultralight experience in a tri gear but no
> tail dragger at all. What would anyone recommend for flight training?
>
> Is the Firestar easily fully enclosed as an "after built"? What are the
> flight characteristics, especially on take off and landing? Does the
> Firestar make a acceptable float plane?
>
> Thanks for any information.
>
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Wayne,
When I transitioned to a Firestar, I had no taildragger experience
and it was not a problem for me.
I did start with runways with plenty of length and width, and little
crosswind. What I found, after a time, was that I didn't have to fly it
as a taildragger. By that I mean that it was easy to three point land,
or even land tail first, and it will takeoff from three wheels with no
problem. It is not overly sensitive on the ground, with the tail up,
except in a crosswind. So I don't think the tail dragger part is a big
problem. But more important is your flying experience and skill level.
The Firestar is much more of an airplane that a lot of ultralights. By
that I mean that I know several people that have been injured, and lost
their planes (lots of money) because the either didn't get any dual time
in similar type. When it comes to trainning, it is better to error on
the side of caution.
John Jung
Wayne Welsh wrote:
>
> Looking into buying a used firestar II. Any suggestions on what to look
> for on inspection. I have ultralight experience in a tri gear but no
> tail dragger at all. What would anyone recommend for flight training?
>
> Is the Firestar easily fully enclosed as an "after built"? What are the
> flight characteristics, especially on take off and landing? Does the
> Firestar make a acceptable float plane?
>
> Thanks for any information.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
Subject: | Weight Shift Eagle books ? |
Have a club member that has acquired the above bird and wonders if
there are any owners of the manuals that came with these craft. He's
willing to reimburse for reproduction and mailing costs, plus a
little extra, I would imagine.
Any takers?
Thanks....
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
Elmore City OK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank R Reynen <Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com> |
Wayne
Regarding your question of the FSII making an acceptable floatplane , my
experience with a MkIII is very positive and the only drawback I see is that
when you build one , you should take special corrosion resistance measures i.e.
100% epoxy primed parts for the tail section and certainly so if you plan to
use it in salt water since the long and low tailsection gets very wet during
takeof and landing.
In addition , you need to make provisions for retractable waterrudders as the
Kolb will experience resistance to turning during wind conditions over 8MPH by
air rudder alone and you will not have any brakes to stop you from running into
an obstacle if you misjudged the turn!
The high location of the engine protects the propeller blades from waterspray
but I still hear the spray hitting the blades from time to time but never had a
problem with the IVO blades which have the SS edge protectors. Use the biggest
engine that Kolb allows for the airframe since the floats increase the takeoff
weight by more than 100lbs regardless which brand of floats you use and close
to 135lbs if amphibious.
E-mail me if you have more questions or need help in selecting floats and
mounting them to a FSII.
Frank Reynen MkIII on Full Lotus floats @406hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
You wrote;
Looking into buying a used firestar II. Any suggestions on what to look
for on inspection. I have ultralight experience in a tri gear but no
tail dragger at all. What would anyone recommend for flight training?
Is the Firestar easily fully enclosed as an "after built"? What are the
flight characteristics, especially on take off and landing? Does the
Firestar make a acceptable float plane?
Thanks for any information.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Subject: | FireFly Owners - Do you have a prop extension |
Need your feedback.
There seems to be question if the FireFly is supposed to have a prop
extension in its standard configuration with a IVO two blade prop.
Our configuration would be a FireFly with a Rotax 447 and a two blade
IVO prop.
I called and emailed Kolb. No reply to the email and Dennis wasn't
around.
Talked to their parts man. There appears to be some confusion if it
standard as part of the kit or can be added for a noise reduction
benefit.
I recall Dennis talking about it at Oshkosh 95 when I ordered my kit
that they had put it on and found that it improved performance. The
lower noise may be a side benefit.
So tell me what you got and did it come with the kit as part of the
engine or prop.
Thanks,
Jerry Bidle
Talked to factory today, they
it improved
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | LAURIE CARROLL <lwjcarroll(at)clear.net.nz> |
Wayne,
There was arecent issue of the EAA Experimenter that had an article on a
mono float equiped Kolb. Firestar i think. They were using it to observe
wild bears.
Is the Firestar easily fully enclosed as an "after built"? What are the
flight characteristics, especially on take off and landing? Does the
Firestar make a acceptable float plane?
Thanks for any information.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | Firefly taking shape |
To All,
The smell of Polybrush and MEK was strong. Don't anybody light a match.
All three guys were hard at it - one covering - one doping - one marking
wing ribs for drilling for big headed rivets. At that rate, the plane is
going to fall together almost all by itself.
I stayed for a few minutes to check their good progress, then made a quick
exit before I got lassoed into doing something.
I gotta feeling it won't be long now until I'll have a "lil brother" on the
field.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (19.4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ALLENB007(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: FireFly Owners - Do you have a prop extension |
Jerry,
I have a Kolb Firefly and recently ordered the three blade 66" ivo prop and
used two of the blades. Kolb recommended the spacer in addition to the prop.
I tried it and found that i had a little more vibration with it than with
the standard wood prop and my temps weren't as consistent. I went back to
the standard wood prop for the rotax 447 and put the three blade ivo w/spacer
on my CGS Hawk and it worked super there!! Made it smooth as silk!!
good luck
AllenB007(at)aol.com
USUA, BFI #56385
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Yates <johny(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb factory support |
>I have heard praise from other Kolb builders also, but my experience
>with
>the company has not been in line with these comments.
>Buyer beware.
>John Jung
>
I would like you to expand on this please, i know some other people would
like to hear what you have to say also. These are pretty harsh words so you
better be able to back them up, or retract what you have posted. I have
read your other post about rebuilding your FS, and from what your posting
everything is going along just fine Is that right? Or am i missing something.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Marino, Frank J (Youngstown ARB)" <Frank.Marino(at)yng.afres.af.mil> |
I have a Mark III with a 582 engine on it and am interested in what
speeds other builders have with their Mark III. What cruise speed and at
what RPM are you flying at. At 5500 RPM I indicate only 50 to 55 MPH it
seems to me I should be indicating faster than that. I approach to
landing at 45 to 50 MPH which seems OK. I haven't tried the flaps as of
yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb factory support |
To John Yates and Group,
I have responded directly to a few that expressed an interest in my
particular problems with the factory. Since there seems to still be
interest, I will give the group more details, but only after I get the
last shipment, which should be next week.
John Jung
John Yates wrote:
>
> >I have heard praise from other Kolb builders also, but my experience
> >with
> >the company has not been in line with these comments.
> >Buyer beware.
> >John Jung
> >
> I would like you to expand on this please, i know some other people would
> like to hear what you have to say also. These are pretty harsh words so you
> better be able to back them up, or retract what you have posted. I have
> read your other post about rebuilding your FS, and from what your posting
> everything is going along just fine Is that right? Or am i missing something.
> John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Subject: | 25 hr maintainence |
To All,
I was doing an inspection and maintainence today and have a question to you
Rotax gurus out there. I am not very engine literate.
My rear plugs were darker and showed a little oil fouling as compared with
the front cylinder plugs which looked just about right. I thought I had
each carb set exactly the same for the engine. Any reason why this is
happening??? Any ideas of things to check? or do? The tops of the
cylinders (viewed through the plug holes with a strong light each looked
about the same and the EGT readings on each cylinder are very close as well.
I noticed some chaffing of a fuel line in a couple of places which I
protected with rubberized engine baffling material and/or split fuel line.
I also noticed some chaffing at the bump on the top of the inner steel wing
rib where it rubs against the wing gap seal. I have been duct taping this
area and it seems to be helping some.
I had to tighten up the castle nut on the universal rear main wing mount by
one notch on one wing.
I retorqued the bolts of the IVO prop. Very little difference was noticed.
I use the stainless steel testing tapes between the 3 blades to forwarn when
there is any movement in the hub area. I have had two tape failures. One
at 8 hours and one at 25 hours. I don't think there is any problem. I have
been flying in really gusty conditions and the engine loads and unloads a
lot when I hit thermals and the plane is thrown into momentary negative G's
occasionally. I am sure the prop has been getting a working over.
Tomorrow, I am going to take the muffler apart and lub the ball sockets and
generally lub all of the hinges, pivot points and cables. Hopefully, that
will hold me until 50 hours.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (19.4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Paul Vencel <paul.vencel(at)MCI.Com> |
Hi everyone.
I'm looking into getting my first plane and have been comparing
engines. Found a web site http://www.2si.com/ for 2 Stroke
International. Anyone out there know anything about them?
According to the info I've found:
(didn't subtract pull start weight)
-------- --- ------ -------------------
Rotax
277 28 66 lbs 75 lbs
447 40 82 lbs 90 lbs
Zenoah
Z25 22 53 lbs ??
Z50 45 90 lbs ??
2si (with 2.5:1 belt reduction)
F-22 22 48 lbs N/A
F-35 35 67 lbs 82 lbs
F-40 40 75 lbs 90 lbs
F-45 45 77 lbs 92 lbs
Does anyone know if these figures are anywhere near acurate?
Does anyone know if these 2SI engines are realiable?
--
Paul Vencel mailto:paul.vencel(at)MCI.COM - Work:719-535-4620
The greatest torture in the world for most people is to think.
Luther Burbank (1849-1926)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
Hi all,
The weather wasn't the greatest during my Kolb week but we managed to get
the job done. We got in town Monday night and Tuesday morning was IFR with
fog. It took us a few hours to find the place anyway, and we got to talk
to Dennis and Dan over lunch while waiting for the weather to clear. By
about 1pm, the conditions were just good enough for some pattern work so we
got started. That afternoon we made 2 flights totaling 3.2 hours and about
18 landings. We were also able to manage a few stalls (I've never done
stalls at 800 feet before) and a bit of airwork as well. Wednesday was a
bust due to rain and wind. Thursday was supposed to be very windy, so we
got in an hour at 7:30 am before it got out of hand. Friday morning we did
the same thing but the wind never got too bad. By noon Friday, I was
finished with endorsements and EAA flight advisor sign-off in hand. We
flew a total of 5.2 hours plus a ride in the SlingShot.
I know, shut up and tell you how I liked it :-)
The visibility can't get much better but I didn't really get too much time
to look around until Friday. Kolb has their own grass strip but Friday we
went over to a paved runway at a local airport to practice. There's a
nuclear power plant about half a mile from this airport which was neat to
see up close.
Climb, WOW does it climb :-)
The plane will be harder to deal with in wind because of the lower wing
loading, but even in the horrible conditions that we had, it wasn't so bad.
Landing does take some getting used to for the GA type pilot. I tended to
"land" way high as is expected, but eventually Dan whipped me into shape.
The biggest thing I had to get used to is the fact that a high approach
speed isn't as much of a problem as it is with GA planes. In fact, I found
myself routinely pointing the nose down and flying at 70-80 mph if I was
too high. By the time that you level off to land, the speed bleeds off.
Don't get me wrong, I know this isn't really the best form, but it sure is
handy, especially when you're trying to stay in close to remain in gliding
distance. Do this in a GA plane and you'll float into the next county.
The evil tailwheel isn't even noticeable during taxi operations. Takeoff
and landing isn't really much different either. There's only a brief
period of time immediately after landing that seems to be a little
squirrelly (especially on pavement) but this seems manageable, and should
be less of a problem if I get my landing speed down some.
My ride in the SS was brief because of the cramped situation, and the cold.
Those early morning flights were about 50 degrees and the planes are still
in Summer mode as far as windows (or lack thereof) go. The rear seat
wasn't too bad except for the fact that my knees were squeezed between
Dan's sides and a vertical portion of the cage. This was really depressing
until I remembered that the production cages were widened a few inches in
this area. It was done mostly for large pilots I think, but passengers
might be the real winners. I still don't expect too many repeat
passengers.
All in all, I feel like the first flight should be survivable. All through
the project I've tried to visualize the first flight, but now I finally
have a clear picture. The SlingShot will be a bit different than the
Mark-III, but mostly in good ways. The ailerons will be much lighter and
more responsive (which was probably my main complaint about the Mark-III),
and the centerline seating will help me tell exactly where "straight ahead"
is. The people at Kolb couldn't have been nicer or more helpful. Even on
my early mornings, Dan was out warming the engine when I arrived. It
doesn't get much better than that!
The current plan is to move the plane to the airport on Sunday the 14th.
I've already removed the wings and BRS, and rented a 26 ft U-Haul. I'm
still working out the details of getting it in and out, and tying it down
inside, but this seems doable. If weather permits, and there are no
further problems, the first flight will probably happen by the end of the
month.
See ya,
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Brandon "Herb" Kearbey" <bkearbey(at)ben.bcoe.butte.k12.ca.us> |
> I have a Mark III with a 582 engine on it and am interested in what
> speeds other builders have with their Mark III. What cruise speed
> and at what RPM are you flying at. At 5500 RPM I indicate only 50 to
> 55 MPH it seems to me I should be indicating faster than that.
We have the same setup, Mark III w/582, and at 5500 we indicate about
75. That isn't exact, but pretty close. You might want to try
adjusting the pitot tube or the static tube. You can get very
different speeds by placing the static tube (well, here we go on the
debate of where to place the static tube). My father and I mounted
the static tube directly under the nosecone. We took a small piece
of aluminum tubing (such as that used in the wing ribs) and connect
it to the rubber tubing of the static port. We then smashed the end
of the aluminum tubing down until there was only a little hole in the
end. We then drill a small hole in the bottom of the nosecone and
mounted it there. The pitot tube was mounted directly out of the
nosecone. With this setup, we seem to be getting accurate readings.
I hope this helps,
Brandon Kearbey
I
> approach to landing at 45 to 50 MPH which seems OK. I haven't tried
> the flaps as of yet.
>
> -
>
|
Kolb | - - - -
Mark III [][]-| - - - -
N52BK .====== | - - - ___ "HERB"
Completed . /| | / | Brandon Kearbey
. / | / | bkearbey@ben.
. \_______/ |-----------/-----| bcoe.butte.k12.
(_____________//----------------\^ ca.us
/ o
( )
Http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/1041
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ron Hoyt <RONALD.R.HOYT(at)cdev.com> |
This comment reflects on note from Hank Fritze on Wed, 07 Aug 1996 22:57:55
-0700 where he said
>"Just a couple of suggestions to Kolb builders:
>When rigging the wings to the cage on Kolb airplanes, if the distance
>from the center of the main spar carry thru to the the main spar clevis
>pins are equal and the distance from the main spar clevis pins to the
>lift strut clevis pins on the wings are the same and the distance from
>the the main spar clevis pins and the lift strut clevis pins on the cage
>are the same both vertically and diagonally, the length of the lift
>struts must be the same.
>
>My measurements were within 1/8" and yet, even though the wings were
>level span-wise, my lift strut length meaurements differed by 1/2." I
>was using a 3 foot carpenters level always in the same direction with a
>lot of iteration.
>
>An analysis of possible errors showed that the 1/2" difference could be
>accounted for within the reading error of the level and the plumb bob!
>The moral of the story is: trust a tape measure more than an ordinary
>level. I made my lift struts the same length."
I have just finished the alignment of my wings to the cage and have yet to
drill the holes for the Spar clevis and drag strut bolt. I used a 6 foot
level and have all measurements for the wing alignment much less than
1/16". Except I have found a 1/4" displacement in the cage spar carry thru
relative to the lift strut clevis pins at the landing gear.
This can be verified by measuring the diagonal through the cage from the
spar carry thru to the opposite landing gear clevis. This results in a 1/4"
difference in the lift strut length when the wings are centered on the main
spar carry thru and the tail boom.
Hanks recommendation to rely on the accuracy of the tape measure is sound
only if you understand the source of all measurement discrepancies. The
use of the level to establish the wing rigging works around any cage non
symmetries and is probably more universal in its application.
It looks like my struts wont be symmetric
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Wing rigging |
On Wed, 10 Sep 1997, Ron Hoyt wrote:
> This comment reflects on note from Hank Fritze on Wed, 07 Aug 1996 22:57:55
>
> >"Just a couple of suggestions to Kolb builders:
>
> >When rigging the wings to the cage on Kolb airplanes, if the distance
> >from the center of the main spar carry thru to the the main spar clevis
> >pins are equal and the distance from the main spar clevis pins to the
> >lift strut clevis pins on the wings are the same and the distance from
> >the the main spar clevis pins and the lift strut clevis pins on the cage
> >are the same both vertically and diagonally, the length of the lift
> >struts must be the same.
Another simple take on this...
There are so many IFs in the above paragraph, and valid ones at that, that
there is no way one should simply make lift struts the same size. Using
a level for wing rigging is the only way to get a properly aligned plane.
(Even if the above measurements appear equal, very small errors add up.
Using a level is the best "bottom line" method for alignment.)
--------|--------
Ben Ransom (*)
Email: bransom(at)ucdavis.edu o o
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Paul,
I have no reason to doubt the weights that you showed, but I think
that their may be a consideration much more important than weight:
Quality. From what I have learned, 2SI may very vell have a quality
problem. I heard that at Oshkosh, two new 2SI engines failed. And a
local instructor put a pair of their engines on his Mark III, about a
month ago, and has had problems with several piston/cylinders already.
Luckily, he hasn't had both engines quit during the same flight.
John Jung
Paul Vencel wrote:
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> I'm looking into getting my first plane and have been comparing
> engines. Found a web site http://www.2si.com/ for 2 Stroke
> International. Anyone out there know anything about them?
> According to the info I've found:
>
> (didn't subtract pull start weight)
> -------- --- ------ -------------------
> Rotax
> 277 28 66 lbs 75 lbs
> 447 40 82 lbs 90 lbs
>
> Zenoah
> Z25 22 53 lbs ??
> Z50 45 90 lbs ??
>
> 2si (with 2.5:1 belt reduction)
> F-22 22 48 lbs N/A
> F-35 35 67 lbs 82 lbs
> F-40 40 75 lbs 90 lbs
> F-45 45 77 lbs 92 lbs
>
> Does anyone know if these figures are anywhere near acurate?
> Does anyone know if these 2SI engines are realiable?
>
> --
> Paul Vencel mailto:paul.vencel(at)MCI.COM - Work:719-535-4620
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> The greatest torture in the world for most people is to think.
>
> Luther Burbank (1849-1926)
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wally Hofmann" <foxfibre(at)pop.primenet.com> |
I just tried to get on the Kolb Archived files at
http://www.intrig.com/kolb/list/
It wasn't found. Has it moved or is it history??
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
>
>I just tried to get on the Kolb Archived files at
>
> http://www.intrig.com/kolb/list/
>
>It wasn't found. Has it moved or is it history??
Wally and all,
For the time being it is history, but it is not lost. The list server
computer was unintentionally purged of it. There is a back-up and it will
have to be re-installed. This may take some time as it is a "labor of love"
by the majordomo of this list.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (19.4 hrs)
(972) 247-9821 Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
Subject: | Re: Wing rigging |
> It looks like my struts wont be symmetric
Mine aren't, either. Just a tad off in length. As a tip, get a set of
letter and number dies, the type used to set names in alum or steel.
On the end of the lift struts I used a two letter ID...such as
WL for Wing Left and SL for Strut Left...that way it's easy to ID the
correct end and placement for each strut later (especially if you
trailer). You can also use the dies to stamp your SSAN on the engine
and anywhere else you care to to make it harder to resell stolen
stuff ( thefts do happen...rarely).
Also the best item I've found for leveling is the circular type found
at Sears...I was able to get down to about 1/4 degree on all
measurements very quickly and with repeatability.
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
Elmore City OK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron Christensen" <SPECTRUMINTERNATIONAL(at)classic.msn.com> |
Subject: | RE: Electrical questions |
Terry:
For what it's worth;
* I installed the capacitor on my 912 powered MK III. As I recall, the
function of the capacitor is to reduce noise and surges in the electrical
system.
* The diode in question should have been included with the starter electrical
parts that came with your engine. Anyway, while I don't know what its purpose
is, I DID install the device according to the instructions.
Ron Christensen
----------
From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com on behalf of Terry Swartz
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 1997 8:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Electrical questions
I've just about finished the wiring of the 912 on my M-III but I have a
couple questions. The rotax manual shows two circuit diagrams for the 912,
one that includes a capacitor and one that shows the capacitor optional.
According to the manual, the capacitor is to ensure control function of the
regulator if the battery fails. Are all of you with 912's adding the
capacitor?
The ignition switch I got from Kolb says you need a surge suppressor diode
on the solenoid. What is that for? Is everyone putting it on?
Thanks
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Subject: | Alert on Matco corrosion... |
This week during an inspection I noticed there was a broken-off bolt
on one of the main-gear rims. Dissassembly revealed that the bolt was
one of the three 5/16" bolts that thread through the (Matco) cast aluminum
hubs and then stick through the anodized rim holes. It was broken off,
apparently I overtorqued it, and the break-point was rusted. I guess
this could happen. But closer examination showed that there was a
bunch of aluminum oxidation on the threads of the bolt, on the hub and
on the anodized rim. I had a heck of a time getting it apart due to
the corrosion. In fact, all three of the bolts that thread thru
the hub and hold on the rim had been experiencing rust, corrosion,
oxidation. This aircraft has been out of the shop a total of 2.2
hours so far, for ground work. Otherwise always "hangared" since
wheel assembly about 8 months ago when it was all new.
I am looking for Stainless cap screws to replace the stock Matco
bolts, at least for the three on each wheel that thread thru the hub.
There must be some galvanic potential generated at the points where
the steel bolts hold together the cast hub and the anodized rim.
I am reporting this to you so if you have the Matco setup, you may
wish to inspect it. It could be messy if one came apart on landing.
If anyone else sees this kind of thing, we may want to contact Matco,
for safety awareness sake.
STATUS on MKiii: Inspection (by expensive DAR) complete, no problems,
Experimental Airworthiness Certificate now on-board aircraft.
Builder/Testpilot is now finishing license.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank & Winnie Hodson <fwhodson(at)megalink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Alert on Matco corrosion... |
Thanks for the bolt corrosion alert on the matco wheels. I will be
replacing mine with stainless hardware during assembly.
A good source for aircraft quality stainless steel hardware is AIRCRAFT
SPRUCE & SPECIALTY COMPANY.
(East COAST: 1-800-831-2949 / West Coast: 1-800-824-1930)
I always found these people more than helpful and a valuable resource
during the five antique aircraft rebuilds in the past.
Frank Hodson
________________________________________________________________________________
July 21, 1997 - September 13, 1997
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ag