Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ak
January 06, 1998 - January 27, 1998
I cruise at 5500 RPM and still have to hold back stick since I have no
trim. Stick forces are not that great (maybe a half a pound), so it's not
that burdensome. At the same RPM without the extra weight, ahead of the
cg, the cruise speed drops about 5 mph.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>Skip,
> Ralph can answer for his original Firestar, but here is how my
>original Firestar responds to weight added behind the seat. The CG
>moves
>forward causing me to hold back on the stick to keep altitude at my
>normal cruise. To fly without pressure on the stick, I increase the
>rpm's until the pressure is off and I find myself cruising faster.
>Basicly I don't have adjustable trim, so I use the throttle.
>John Jung
>
>skip staub wrote:
>>
>> but when I'm on my return trip home after using
>> >up the fuel in my auxiliary gas cans, the FireStar's cruise drops ~
>5
>> >mph.
>>
>> Didn't you mention that the (2) three gal aux tanks were behind the
>seat?
>> That would move your cg aft and would cause your airplane to fly
>faster.
>> When the aux tanks are dry, it would seem that the cg would then
>move
>> forward giving you a forward cg and causing the stability to go up
>and the
>> airspeed down. It sounds as if things are working as conventional
>theory
>> would dictate.
>>
>> -
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | nose heavy firestar |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
To all,
Try this on for size.
The pitching moment of the "flat-bottom airfoil" is much greater than on
a conventional aircraft with semi-symmetrical wings (symmetrical wings
have no pitching moment). On those aircraft, a nose heavy condition means
trying to make up for the added weight by an increased angle of attack
generating more lift. This price for this is more induced drag slowing
the aircraft down (conventional theory). With the "flat-bottomed
airfoil", however, the added weight up front only aides the pitching
moment which is trying to pitch the plane forward. This results in a
lower angle of attack with much less induced drag. The elevator will go
up to neutral (at least on the original FireStars) with this added
weight, which reduces the drag even further. Both of these things result
in a faster cruise.
Am I full of water?
Comments please
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MJWAY <MJWAY(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Piston vs Bulb Type Primers? |
I am just getting set up with used (48 hrs) FireFly which I purchased. At
present it has a 447 engine with no primer installed. My limited UL
experience is 35 hours in a friends single seat Hurricane. His primer pump
was the piston type and tended to leak past the piston seal after just a few
months of use. He reported never being able to find a piston pump that
wouldn't leak after a few months. So is there a piston type brand / model
that holds up? Or is it better to go with a bulb type? Thanks.
The New Guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piston vs Bulb Type Primers? |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Hey new guy,
I've got the one from LEAF (Leading Edge Air Foils). It has never leaked
in 10 years. It's the piston-type. I don't remember the brand name
though.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>I am just getting set up with used (48 hrs) FireFly which I purchased.
>At present it has a 447 engine with no primer installed. My limited UL
>experience is 35 hours in a friends single seat Hurricane. His primer
pump
>was the piston type and tended to leak past the piston seal after just a
few
>months of use. He reported never being able to find a piston pump that
>wouldn't leak after a few months. So is there a piston type brand /
model
>that holds up? Or is it better to go with a bulb type? Thanks.
>
>The New Guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: stuck rings and things... |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
JIM
I have just done a 50 insp. on my 582 ( the first one) My findings were
I could see some movement in the top and lower rings with a magna
finding glass their was no sutt in the exh. man. and the only thing what
had black on it was the top of the piston
it was in good shape the oil that I use is AV/2 and this is no plug for
them . I an pleased with the way the plugs looked ,the top of the head
looked clean and no signs
of sutt
writes:
> Ralph B.: One of your last appends talked about a Rotax you had stuck
>rings
>in, at 200 hours. At that time, what oil were you using, what ratio
>(assuming
>no injex system)? Thanks
>
> All Rotax operators: I pulled my X manifold off for high temp
>coating and
>was surprised to see so much buildup of thick black tar-like substance
>on the
>inside of the "Y" pipe near the cylinder. This was also present on
>the spark
>plugs. I immediately blamed it on the oil, of course. Now I am
>thinking it
>could also have been from the fuel. (This is injection-equipped 582).
> What deposits might be left behind by the fuel? The EGTs look great
>but
>it could be too rich, would this give me black tar? Or is it excess
>heavy
>unburned oil base from the injex oil? This stuff is stuck to my prop
>also.
>
> Someone asked about Sport Prop: Also check out Power Fin. Their
>web address
>is: http://www.everett.net/users/expat/index.htm I am very happy
>with the
>PowerFin on the 582 with "C" box and 2.62 ratio, three-bladed 66",
>pitch
>is ground adjustable. I am glad I can adjust the pitch because the
>Rotax
>keeps getting more and more power as it breaks in. I have increased
>pitch
>three times now, +-3/4 of a degree each time, each time the RPM will
>drop by
>400-500 RPM initially and then, a few hours later, I see it is back up
>to 6800
>again. I am using the Warp drive protractor. I started out at 16
>degrees
>indicated, and will be going to 18 degrees 30 minutes next. All
>measurements
>are measured at the tips, with plane setting level. As I understand
>the
>general concensus from you guys, I am aiming for 6100 or so, Static.
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine out landing |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
I am with you one should NEVER go up after the temp. was in that high of
a range then go .............................. without an
exhaust inspection to look at the cylinders ,an piston's
Ben I sure am glad you made a good and safe landing.sounds like the
engine out training pay's off. You can't go wrong with the dual E G T
>
><< I richened the main jet and mid-range needle setting and flew a
>little
> more. I was still too lean, verified by adding choke at cruise, and
> had the engine quit once more after coming completely back to idle
> after touchdown. I'll pull the heads and exhaust manifold before
>next
> flight to inspect and hopefully verify no damage done from running
>hot. >>
>
>
> Glad to hear you're alive. But you just broke one of the cardinal
>rules of
>Rotax flying. Your engine quit at idle after a presumtive overheat
>situation
>and YOU FLEW ON IT AGAIN WITHOUT DETERMINING IF YOU HAD SEIZED IT. As
>the
>piston starts to overheat and expand past its limits it binds. The
>energy
>from running at cruise will keep it moving, but when you let up on the
>throttle it doesn't have enough oomph to overcome the friction and it
>grabs.
>
> The rule can be stated with great simplicity: if your Rotax
>quits for no
>apparent reason and you even slightly suspect that it overheated you
>MUST pull
>the exhaust and inspect the cylinder walls for scuffing or other
>evidence of a
>seizure.
>
> I bought a wreck of a Rans Airaille a few years ago. The pilot had
>exactly
>your experience. The engine quit at or near idle on landing. By the
>time he
>got it pulled off the runway and scratched his head for a while it had
>cooled
>down some. He started it again and took off. It seized again on take
>off and
>he bought the farm.
>
> Again . . . . I'm very glad you are alive, but I question your
>judgment
>in flying again on the engine beofre you had satisfied yourself that
>the
>cylinder walls weren't scuffed. I'll be very interested to hear your
>report
>on the inspection. (I recomend a flashlight and a dental mirror so
>you can
>see all sides.) I would welcome the group's comments as well.
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Olendorf <Olendorf(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy Kolb |
<<
I cruise at 5500 RPM and still have to hold back stick since I have no
trim. Stick forces are not that great (maybe a half a pound), so it's not
that burdensome. At the same RPM without the extra weight, ahead of the
cg, the cruise speed drops about 5 mph.
Ralph Burlingame
>>
I have to hold the stick back as well. But since I do not have trim either, I
raised one of the ailerons by turning in the rod end 2 or 3 turns. This will
get the nose up.
Scott Olendorf
Classic Firestar w/377
Schenectady, NY USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy firestar |
>To all,
>
>Try this on for size.
>
>The pitching moment of the "flat-bottom airfoil" is much greater than on
>a conventional aircraft with semi-symmetrical wings (symmetrical wings
>have no pitching moment). On those aircraft, a nose heavy condition means
>trying to make up for the added weight by an increased angle of attack
>generating more lift. This price for this is more induced drag slowing
>the aircraft down (conventional theory). With the "flat-bottomed
>airfoil", however, the added weight up front only aides the pitching
>moment which is trying to pitch the plane forward. This results in a
>lower angle of attack with much less induced drag. The elevator will go
>up to neutral (at least on the original FireStars) with this added
>weight, which reduces the drag even further. Both of these things result
>in a faster cruise.
>
>Am I full of water?
>Comments please
>
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original FireStar
>
> When you are in flight, are the lower surfaces of your ailerons flat and
parallel to the bottom of the wing, or are they flat and parallel when the
airplane is sitting in the hangar? This is important. Thanks.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P(42oldpoops)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lexan Sources |
Ben, here is the pest again. Your modified windshield, and its effect
on how your plane flies, interests me very much. As you may recall, I
am half way thru building my original Firestar, and am very interested
in any refinements made by those of you already in the air. You
wouldn't happen to have a means of sending me pictures of what it looks
like, would you? Descriptions are great, but as my old friend Charlie
Confucious once told me, "Ronnie, picture (or two) is worth a thousand
words". Sometimes I think he was right.
Ron Carroll
Original Firestar #015
Independence, Oregon
>Ben and others,
>
>Maybe my increased cruise speed was partly do to reduced drag and
partly
>due to even more weight up front. I was concerned about the added
weight
>of that .090" lexan windshield (I mean it weighed ~ 3 times the old
one),
>but I have no problem flaring on touchdown. It's such a big improvement
>over the old. Not only does it look great, but is very functional as
>well.
>
>I think you hit on something Ray L ........
>
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original FireStar
>
>
> writes:
>>Another comment about lexan. It is pretty heavy. I know there
>>is the issue of lexan rigidity, but keep in mind that .090"
>>lexan weighs 50% more than .060". The standard FS KX/KXP long center
>>windscreen is .060 and I used .030 for the side panels, which i'll
>>admit, was barely adequate, and i even added a 5/16 AL tube brace on
>>each side panel. But it is still lighter and ounces do add up.
>>-Ben
>>
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy firestar |
>To all,
>
>Try this on for size.
>
>The pitching moment of the "flat-bottom airfoil" is much greater than on
>a conventional aircraft with semi-symmetrical wings (symmetrical wings
>have no pitching moment). On those aircraft, a nose heavy condition means
>trying to make up for the added weight by an increased angle of attack
>generating more lift. This price for this is more induced drag slowing
>the aircraft down (conventional theory). With the "flat-bottomed
>airfoil", however, the added weight up front only aides the pitching
>moment which is trying to pitch the plane forward. This results in a
>lower angle of attack with much less induced drag. The elevator will go
>up to neutral (at least on the original FireStars) with this added
>weight, which reduces the drag even further. Both of these things result
>in a faster cruise.
>
>Am I full of water?
>Comments please
All sounds pretty reasonable to me. Maybe that's at least 2 of us full of
water or
whatever else people might be thinking of. :-)
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb Long Windshield |
| From: | rayul(at)juno.com (Raymond L Lujon) |
I am looking into the possibility of providing picture of long windshield
via scanner. Ray Lujon Woodbury, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Piston vs Bulb Type Primers? |
>I am just getting set up with used (48 hrs) FireFly which I purchased. At
>present it has a 447 engine with no primer installed. My limited UL
>experience is 35 hours in a friends single seat Hurricane. His primer pump
>was the piston type and tended to leak past the piston seal after just a few
>months of use. He reported never being able to find a piston pump that
>wouldn't leak after a few months. So is there a piston type brand / model
>that holds up? Or is it better to go with a bulb type? Thanks.
>
Absolutely. I didn't build my FireFly, but the original builder took one
look at the primer (piston type) and was less than impressed. He bought
a "real" one at a swap meet somewhere to use instead. My advice is to
stay away from the "lawnmower" types and get yourself a general aviation
(metal) primer. Mine works great, and doesn't leak at all. (Probably
because its the same as the ones you'll find in the spam cans at the
local airport which haven't ever leaked either.) They've got a little more
weight of course, and they'll probably cost you a little more money, but
they're well worth it.
-Jon-
.--- stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine out - no heat damage |
I got into my engine last night. No heat damage at all, cylinder walls,
piston skirts and crowns all look like new except for standard carbon
build-up on piston crowns. Rings free and clean too. I took the heads
off, and in doing so noticed that the head nuts on the exhaust side were
not fully at proper torque, but no other symptoms really support head
gasket leakage. I'll check into other things but am mostly suspicious of
slow idle speed and idle mixture as probable causes. Probably unrelated,
but i'm still perplexed as to why my rear cylinder (cht) runs 50 deg
hotter than front at cruise rpms. The cht probes are good.
Question: on the Bing carb there is an idle mixture adjustment screw
next to the idle speed screw. I have my idle mixture screw turned
out 1/2 turn. Is this what others are using? There is no info in the
Op manual, but this is called an "air screw" and i believe opening it
further lets in more air at idle. Correct?
thanks for your comments.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy firestar |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Richard,
In flight, my ailerons are adjusted flat so the bottom of the wing and
ailerons are inline (parallel). When I built it years ago, I put a long
ruler on the bottom of the wing to adjust them. I have not adjusted them
since then. They are also both parallel with each other when sighting
down the wing (ie. one not higher than the other). It is well balanced in
roll.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
writes:
>When you are in flight, are the lower surfaces of your
>ailerons flat an parallel to the bottom of the wing, or are they flat
and parallel when the airplane is sitting in the hangar? This is
important. Thanks.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P(42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine out - no heat damage |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
I believe you are right, Ben. I have never had to adjust my idle mixture
screw, but in the fall I turn the idle speed screw clockwise to increase
my idle to 2000 RPM as I had said earlier. I think this was all that was
wrong with your engine. It does look like the head bolts needed
tightening. Did you retorque them after 20 hours of your last tear down?
Must do that.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>
>Question: on the Bing carb there is an idle mixture adjustment screw
>next to the idle speed screw. I have my idle mixture screw turned
>out 1/2 turn. Is this what others are using? There is no info in the
>Op manual, but this is called an "air screw" and i believe opening it
>further lets in more air at idle. Correct?
>
>thanks for your comments.
>
>-Ben Ransom
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Retorquing headbolts |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Ben,
I forgot to mention to use the torque sequence order for each bolt. Do
each one at a lower torque in sequence, then each one with more torque,
then finally use the max. You can find the torque and sequence in the
LEAF catalog.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | ELT & flight test questions |
Group,
My Firestar II is getting closer to being done. Last weekend I
received my N-number. All I have left to finish is the brake cables, the
strobe firing unit, the full windscreen, the ELT, and getting it ready
for inspection. That brings up a couple of questions:
1) Which ELT should I buy and who has a good price?
2) Has anyone been approved for less than 40 hours of flight testing?
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PKrotje <PKrotje(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine out - no heat damage |
<< Question: on the Bing carb there is an idle mixture adjustment screw
next to the idle speed screw. I have my idle mixture screw turned
out 1/2 turn. Is this what others are using? There is no info in the
Op manual, but this is called an "air screw" and i believe opening it
further lets in more air at idle. Correct?
>>
This screw controls the amount of air in the fuel mixture when the engine is
running on the idle jet (<2500 rpm). The general rule for setting the screw
is 1/2 turn out for a 503.
As changes in temperature or altitude or humidity occur, the same changes in
fuel mixture occur at the idle jet circuit as occur at the main or midrange
jet. You might try changing that air screw a bit. I have found that as
winter sets in and temps go down, I have to richen the idle mixture by turning
the screw clockwise (decreasing the air). When temps warm again, I will lean
it out.
With my 503 dual carb, I found that I had a really hard time getting a good
idle with the stock #45 idle jet. The engine started and idled best with the
screw nearly closed. This led me to conclude that if I had a bigger jet to
supply more fuel, I could open the air screw a bit and finally get the mixture
right.
A #55 idle jet turned out to be the right one. Now the idle air screw is
turned out one full turn (more or less). I gained 200 rpm at idle with this
jet with no idle screw ajustment and it is noticeably smoother at idle.
Starting has been easier as well.
With the smaller jet I had to give the engine 3 or 4 shots from the primer
even in warm weather to get it to start. Now, at 20 degrees, one shot of
prime and it starts almost instantly.
After several hundred hours on these two strokes, I have realized that the
carb setups that come from Rotax are really generalized and will work 'ok' for
many applications. It is up to us to tinker with the factory setups to get it
right for us. If your engine won't idle smoothly, try different carb setups
until it does.
Pete Krotje
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER <DLSOUDER(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax 912 for Sale |
Dear Kolb Mark-III & SlingShot Builders,
I apologize for this little commercial - but it may be a real help to someone
who is thinking of purchasing a Rotax 912.
We have available the Rotax 912 engine package that is presently on our
demonstrator SlingShot. We are installing the new HKS 2-cylinder, 4 stroke
engine from Japan on our SlingShot for evaluation & expect to have it on for
some time, and we dont have an immediate application for the 912. The 912
engine is practically new, it only has 40 hours total time. It will be
shipped complete with both radiators, oil tank, header/exhaust, etc. It also
comes with the 3-blade hi-pitch IVO prop with custom 4 spacer. The price is
$8,975 (the new package prices is over $11,000 - plus it is all assembled with
powder coated mounting brackets, oil tank, and oil tank mounting bracket.
This is a very good opportunity to save over $2,000 and have the engine
package pre-assembled for free.
Also available, for S.S. builders, is the Grand Rapids EIS with the complete
wiring harness, with custom Kuntzleman Hot box and battery. (The battery and
Hot Box are mounted in the nose.)
Dennis Souder
Pres Kolb Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
Regarding an ELT in your Firestar II:
ELT's are not required in single place aircraft.
If you have electric start, a Rotax 503, hydraulic brakes, strobes, etc.
(all the bells & whisles) and you weigh around 200 pounds like I do. You
will be getting very close to the Firestar's gross weight of 725
pounds,----without a passenger. I found out I could only take a 25#
passanger. So, no second seat, and no ELT required.
bobdoebler(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Sharp" <msharp(at)tgn.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb Mark III Building notes |
Folks,
Picked up my steel parts today, the powder coating looks great! I
should be complete with the tail feathers this week. We had a wonderful
week here in south east Texas, If you like rain that is..........not
much to do except cut and flatten 5/16 tubing :-) at one point my wife
was at the vise flattening and rounding, and my 8 year old was helping
me with the riveting (I have a pneu. gun.) What a family outing!!!!
I'm one lucky man to have a partner this excited about getting on with
the building......and then flying.
I won't bore "Ya'll" with these posts very often I just wanted to share
the news.
Peace,
Mike Sharp
Kolb Mark III
Cut First Tubing, 11-28-97
Folks,
Picked up my
steel parts
today, the powder coating looks great! I should be complete with
the tail
feathers this week. We had a wonderful week here in south east
Texas, If
you like rain that is..........not much to do except cut and flatten
5/16 tubing
:-) at one point my wife was at the vise flattening and
rounding,
and my 8 year old was helping me with the riveting (I
have a pneu. gun.) What a family outing!!!! I'm one
lucky man
to have a partner this excited about getting on with the
building......and then
flying.
I won't bore "Ya'll" with these posts
very often I just wanted to share the
news.
Peace,
Mike Sharp
Kolb Mark III
Cut First Tubing,
11-28-97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
<< So things are not quite so simple as "2-blade props are more efficient".
It all depends on the engine, plane, prop combination. In the absence of
a cood computer simulation, experimentation is the only way to determine
the best prop for a given plane-engine. In many cases, a 3-blade prop
can be set up to outperform a 2 blade in both climb and top speed.
In all cases, however, the 3-blade will be quieter and smoother.
>>
Thank you Bill for your dissertation on prop "efficiency". I have received
other inputs on this subject and yours fits right in with considerable more
detail. It's great to be able to communicate with such knowledgable
backgrounds. ..... GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine out - no heat damage |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>writes:
>
><< Question: on the Bing carb there is an idle mixture adjustment
>screw
> next to the idle speed screw. I have my idle mixture screw turned
> out 1/2 turn. Is this what others are using? There is no info in
>the
> Op manual, but this is called an "air screw" and i believe opening it
> further lets in more air at idle. Correct?
> >>
>
>This screw controls the amount of air in the fuel mixture when the
>engine is
>running on the idle jet (<2500 rpm). The general rule for setting the
>screw
>is 1/2 turn out for a 503. .....
>
After Ben's original question, I was gonna shoot back with some accurate
info to
help but after checking my advice against the CPS "Care and feeding..."
series,
I had confused myself so badly that I wasn't sure if my own 447 has ever
been 'right', although it starts easy and runs fine!
I think that the main confusion (at least on my part) is in terminology.
A chart in
part 10 of the "C&F" series says the initial setting of the "IDLER SCREW"
is 1/2
turn out on all 503, 447, and 377 engines (there is no accompanying
figure) but
when you refer to the exploded parts page in that same catalog, you see
an "AIR"
screw and an "ADJUSTMENT" screw but for the life of me, I cannot find a
part
called an "IDLER" screw. I don't have the Rotax manual, perhaps it is
clear on
this but the CPS reference is certainly confusing (to me at least).
In the real world, (I think) PK is right about the "IDLE" screw changing
the idle circuit
mixture and this is what "AIR" screw refers to in the CPS catalog. The
"ADJUSTMENT" screw is the tapered pin that determines how much the slide
is held open when the throttle is closed and mainly sets idle RPM. (Just
don't
screw it in while at closed throttle or it will only jam the slide,
rather, open the
throttle to a fast idle and 'creep' the adjustment screw in maybe 1/8
turn then close
the throttle until you get the RPM you want.) Both of these must be
'tweaked' to get
a good smooth idle when the weather changes.
My 2
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine out landing |
<< ~ 200 hours on the engine since new. Now I pull off the exhaust manifold
after
~ 100 hours and check for stuck rings.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar >>
Ralph, this sounds like some great advice for me as I have only one EGT point
too and near 100 hours now, although my 447 has never quit on me yet....but I
do have to reattach a small diagonal tube that broke at my wing root and send
my chute back for repack and pull the exhaust manifold. Do you always have a
new gasket on hand for such a maneuver? GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No ELT needed |
Robert L Doebler wrote:
>
> Regarding an ELT in your Firestar II:
>
> ELT's are not required in single place aircraft.
>
> If you have electric start, a Rotax 503, hydraulic brakes, strobes, etc.
> (all the bells & whisles) and you weigh around 200 pounds like I do. You
> will be getting very close to the Firestar's gross weight of 725
> pounds,----without a passenger. I found out I could only take a 25#
> passanger. So, no second seat, and no ELT required.
>
> bobdoebler(at)juno.com
I have recoil start, one carb, cable brakes, streamlined strobes and
polyspray.
But with 5 gallons of fuel I can still carry a 155 pound passenger. None
of my four grandsons are that big yet.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: idler screws &apology to Cavuontop |
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, Mick Fine wrote:
> In the real world, (I think) PK is right about the "IDLE" screw changing
> the idle circuit
> mixture and this is what "AIR" screw refers to in the CPS catalog. The
> "ADJUSTMENT" screw is the tapered pin that determines how much the slide
Mike,
You are right in your interpretation of the CPS Care &Feeding info.
Typically one wouldn't have any problems with the idle speed taper
screw binding the carb slide because the tapered, pointed part of this
screw is alread under the slide anyway.
Others have replied to me as well on the method to set the idle
mixture screw ...thanks to all of you. It sounds like there is a
good description of that procedure in the LEAF catelog so i ordered
one of those as mine is pretty ancient. In summary, that screw
(which is next to the idle speed tapered screw), is nominally at
1/2 turn out. W/ the engine warm, turn it out further till the
engine runs rough, then back in till smooth, then in 1/8 more turn.
Out=leaner, In=richer. There is also a second idler jet, aka enricher
circuit. This is a fixed size jet accessible and removable by taking
off the float boal. I've heard of it becoming clogged so it is wise
to remove and check it periodically. It can also be exchanged for a
different size if you feel you don't get good idle mixture adjustment
range from the idle mixture screw.
I think i used to be somewhat familiar with the idle mixture screw
but forgot about it, thinking it shouldn't take rocket science attention
to keep this engine idling. I think I took this too casually and
am glad to know better how to keep on top of this.
thanks again to all, and also a thanks and apology to you, Cavuontop,
as by now i know that I bit back too defensively at your good advice
not to fly after any suspicions of heat damage.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: exhaust gaskets |
On Thu, 8 Jan 1998, GeoR38 wrote:
> do have to reattach a small diagonal tube that broke at my wing root and send
> my chute back for repack and pull the exhaust manifold. Do you always have
a
> new gasket on hand for such a maneuver? GeoR38
No.
I've taken off my exh manifold many times to check things and have only
replaced the exh gaskets once at full top-end overhaul. One point to
be aware of is that, on engine reassembly, CPS Care&Feeding recommends
torquing the exhaust and intake manifolds *before* torquing down the
cylinder heads.
One could assume that once the heads are on and torqued and rechecked
after 2hours operation that they won't move. However, with the above
info it might be advisable to also check head nut torque anytime after
removing the exhaust or intake manifold.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marino, Frank J (Youngstown ARB)" <Frank.Marino(at)yng.afres.af.mil> |
I just removed the muffler from a 582, and the rubbers are checked . I
want to replace them and someone on the net suggested a replacement from
an automotive store. Any one have any ideas, actually I live about 15
miles from Green Sky Adventures Rotax Dealers I probably should just get
them there. Do I sound confused.
FRANK J. MARINO
Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Prange" <evoice(at)acton.com> |
| Subject: | Mark III For Sale |
I've decided to build another airplane and in order to do so must sell my
Mark III.
1997 Kolb Mark III from factory quick-build option
Rotax 582 with Oil Injection and 3 blade IVO (red)
Full Enclosure
Tundra Tires
Hydralic Brakes
Factory Upholstery (never installed)
45 Hours
Excellent + Condition
Always Hangared
Instruments: EIS with built-in Altimeter, Compass, Turn & Bank, Airspeed
Indicator, ELT
Electric Fuel Pump with Capatience Fuel Gauge
Kuntzleman Strobes
Optional Factory 17 Gallon Aluminum Fuel Tank
All Metal Parts Including Cage and Boom Powder Coated (white)
White Poly-Tone Finish
$18,000.00 Firm
Photos available if seriously interested
Doug Prange
Lincoln, Nebraka
(402) 432-0774
evoice(at)acton.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine out landing |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
GeoR38,
You don't need a new exhaust gasket set for taking off the exhaust
manifold, but for taking the cylinders and heads off you do need top and
bottom sets of gaskets. When you are able to look into the exhaust port,
see if the bottom ring on the rear cylinder is stuck first. If it is,
then the engine must come apart.
Ralph B.
<< ~ 200 hours on the engine since new. Now I pull off the exhaust
manifold
> after ~ 100 hours and check for stuck rings.
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original FireStar >>
>Ralph, this sounds like some great advice for me as I have only one
>EGT point too and near 100 hours now, although my 447 has never quit on
me
>yet....but I do have to reattach a small diagonal tube that broke at my
wing root
>and send my chute back for repack and pull the exhaust manifold. Do
you
>always have a new gasket on hand for such a maneuver?
>GeoR38
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Shameless Commercial Endorsement |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
I'll try to keep this story short, but suffice to say, it's nice to run
across a little generosity in this world and I'm gonna give a plug to a
fabric company:
Being a hardcore cheapskate, I was trying to find a source for
"trampoline" fabric to make a pair of custom seats for my Twinstar. My
plan is to make a light frame for the backs so they can fold forward (the
Mk. II / III seats won't work). So, I searched the "Web" and found TC
Baycor Co. in Norcross, GA. They are a manufacturer and so I e-mailed
them inquiring if they could point me to a local retailer who would sell
a small (2 or 3 yds.) quantity for my seats. In a day or so, someone
responded to me saying that if I would give them a street address, they
would send a sample and asked again about how much I was needing. I
replied that I needed only a piece approximately 24" X 96". This was
right before Xmas and I have had no more e-mail from them. I was actually
expecting nothing, figuring they had bigger fish to fry but thought maybe
I would receive a small swatch of fabric and the name of a retailer in my
area at the most.
Well, today I received via UPS a "sample" of trampoline fabric 24" X 96"
..GRATIS! (Unless I get a bill later!) Now there's a business that
deserves a plug! I will post their web address to the list (don't have it
here at home) and say a hardy public THANX!!!
Here's their contact info:
TC Baycor Co.
3500 Parkway Lane
Norcross, GA 30092
(770) 448-1518
FAX 446-0696
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lexan Sources |
>> Not familiar with Cadillac Plastics---- could you tell us generally where
they are located and what is their main products?
>
>Bill Hatfield
>> -
Bill and all,
I purchase from the warehouse here in Dallas, Tx. They carry all kinds of
plastic sheet, block and rod material, polycarbonate, plexiglas, etc. They
also have a web site. I looked it up using the AltaVista search engine.
They are a worldwide company.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (37.3 hrs)
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: New Years flight |
Don't ya all know oil and gas freeze at 40 degrees in Texas.
Actually I got my first (cold) flight in just after Christmas, it
wasn't fun. More on that later.
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: New Years flight
Date: 1/4/98 11:10 AM
I am suprised. I expected to be able to read about those down south flying
in the winter. So who is doing the flying and sharing the experiences?
Ralph and myself, from Minnesota and Wisconsin. Does anybody down south
fly in winter? Or does one have to be in Phoenix to escape the bad
weather?
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: straight gear |
Just how much bent is too much to straighten.
I would think a conventional bungee cord type gear could be adapted to
the Kolb but it might weigh more.
My partner and another friend devised a modification to the bungee
gear for his N3-Pup. He had problems with the holders of the bungee
cord being too weak and bending. I got tried of trying to land it
when it was lop sided, it was more challenging then. They devised a
method which instead of stretching a bungee in stead compresses
springs. The spring are ones used for press dies in the machine tool
business. It works great and I can honestly say I tested them
thoroughly a few times.
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: straight gear
Date: 1/3/98 11:15 PM
>aluminum landing gear approach to "saving" the rest of the plane on tough
>landings, but now I have accumulated enough bent ones that it would sure be
>nice if there were a way to reuse them if they are not too badly bent.
Since I
>have 15 bent ones.....Naw, just kiddin but I do have 5 bent ones and 1
>actually broke on a landing one time (but I know why) I wonder if anyone of a
>mechanical bent (pun intendedf) would be able to tell the group what to
>do....or where to go ......or sumpin. (where you been Frank?)
GeoR38
My theory is straighten once then replace but before I take it off I
need a good bend in it. They can be straightened with a good 5 ton hydrolic
jack. Also keep a pair of restraightened ones on the aircraft if possible
with the tools to swap it out in case you are ever stuck in the boonies.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: RV-List: Hot Time |
Yes it can happen with plastic cans and plastc barrells as in a freinds brother
case. He did get burned out of it. You were lucky.
At least you have the wisdom not to fuel in the hangar. We have several people
at our field which refuse to grasp that once the fire starts events happen real
fast.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: RV-List: Hot Time
Date: 1/5/98 10:15 PM
Hi everyone, I'm forwarding this post from the RV list because almost all of
us could benifit from a little reminder about fueling safety. This guy is
REALLY lucky.
Be careful,
Rusty
>I had a rather exciting experience that occurred while refueling my
>RV-6A. I have a Mazda 13B as a power plant using auto fuel. Not having
>auto fuel at the airport, I have been transporting it in a 5 gallon
>plastic container (approved for auto fuel) and using a funnel to pour
>the gasoline into the wing tank. Sensitive to the risks of static
>electricity, I always "grounded" (I know - I question whether you can
>truly "ground" a plastic container) the plastic container against the
>airframe prior to pouring in the gasoline. I have refuel the aircraft
>many times before using this method (as well numerous lawn mowers, weed
>wackers, etc). I had hauled the aircraft out of the hangar and had it
>sitting in the middle of the tarmac in front of the hanger and had
>commenced to refuel.
>
>Well, this time it happened. As I was approximately half-way through
>pouring from the five gallon container into the funnel (the plastic
>funnel is a very wide mouth with a filter cartridge in its center- used
>to quickly fill race cars) the fireworks started. The gasoline ignited
>with a "Swoosh" and I found myself holding a flaming funnel as well as
>the five gallon container which had flames coming from its opening.
>
>Needless to say, things got very exciting and busy in a hurry. As I
>reacted to the flames going off, I swung the container away ,which was
>in my right hand, removed the flaming funnel from the wing tank opening
>with my left hand. In the process I sloshed some flaming gasoline onto
>the wing and tarmac. And flames were now also coming from the opening
>of the wing tank. So by quick count, I had flames coming out of the
>wing tank, some burning on the wing, a patch burning on the tarmac, a
>flaming funnel as well as the 5 gallon container on fire. Did I say
>things got exciting in a hurry? I immediately move the flaming
>container about 12-15 feet away from the aircraft and set it down,
>quickly move the flaming funnel about 5 feet from the container and laid
>it down.. Immediately dashed to the plane and placed the fuel cap into
>the tank opening stuffing out that fire, smothered the fire on the wing,
>ran back to the container and placed its lid on the flaming opening
>smothering that fire, moved the still flaming funnel further away,
>smother the fire on the tarmac and then returned to smother the funnel.
>
>Finally, all fires are extinguished and I take time for a breath.
>Wasn't timing myself as I was somewhat distracted at the moment, but
>believe the entire event from ignition to all flames out was around
>30-45 seconds (could be wrong about the time, but not by much). Old men
>can move quickly if motivated properly.
>
>Yes, I did have a fire extinguisher, but had neglected to take it out of
>the car and didn't feel I had the time to dash to the car to get it.. I
>also have a small Halon fire extinguisher mounted between the seats of
>aircraft - but, again distance and flames were between it and me.
>Won't make that mistake again. Also, I will never use a plastic
>container again, but will use a metal one with a little cable attached
>that I can ground to the aircraft. I will also not use a funnel, but
>will probably use one of the rotary pumps with hose and nozzle grounded.
>
>
>So the good news is no damage to me or the aircraft and a much wiser me.
>So, while it had not ever happened before, I quickly found out that one
>time is one time too many.
>
>For your consideration
>
>Regards
>
>Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine out landing |
<< , w/ engine out, i want to
hear lots of wind whistling by and feel some stick resistance, e.g. 45
minimum in glide, 50-55 even better, till over the numbers. Note, on
my FS, 47mph seems to be my best glide angle.
>>
this is the way I always land my KX firestar....but I always chew up 750
ft....So I got some brakes to put on ...maybe drop down to 600Ft......Boy!
that brake outfit I got from Kolb sure seems to weigh a lot....everything is
pressed 10ga steel it seems....Is that what everybody is using ....why isn't
there a lighter approach to adding brakes to an unltralight
GeoR38 any comments Frank M?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine out landing |
>there a lighter approach to adding brakes to an unltralight
>GeoR38 any comments Frank M?
>-
I have been flying my original Twinstar for 6 years now without brakes. I
have never missed them or seriously needed them.I have thought of putting
on some kind of one wheel brake to assist when turning.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine out landing |
>there a lighter approach to adding brakes to an unltralight
>GeoR38 any comments Frank M?
>-
I have been flying my original Twinstar for 6 years now without brakes. I
have never missed them or seriously needed them.I have thought of putting
on some kind of one wheel brake to assist when turning.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: engine out landing |
>
>this is the way I always land my KX firestar....but I always chew up 750
>ft....So I got some brakes to put on ...maybe drop down to 600Ft......Boy!
>that brake outfit I got from Kolb sure seems to weigh a lot....everything is
>pressed 10ga steel it seems....Is that what everybody is using ....why isn't
>there a lighter approach to adding brakes to an unltralight
>GeoR38 any comments Frank M?
>
>
I've commented so much on this that I'd probably be kicked off the list if
i said another word. I'll risk just referencing my solution at:
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/build/a5brakes.html
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy Kolb |
<< I cruise at 5500 RPM and still have to hold back stick since I have no
trim. Stick forces are not that great (maybe a half a pound), so it's not
that burdensome. At the same RPM without the extra weight, ahead of the
cg, the cruise speed drops about 5 mph. >>
Ral;ph, I'm almost a 200#r and my Firestar performed the same way, seemed nose
heavy such that I had to use back pressure all the time. Got to thinking
...what happens if my elevator quits working due to cable or screw backout.?
So I put a trim tab on the elevator and at least feel more comfortable about
the possibility of a successful landing at a reasonable speed if I lose
control of the elevator as it flies straight and true @ 50 now. I'll just use
throttle for up/down control! GeoR38 (the ole glider pilot)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine out - no heat damage |
<< After several hundred hours on these two strokes, I have realized that the
carb setups that come from Rotax are really generalized and will work 'ok'
for
many applications. It is up to us to tinker with the factory setups to get
it
right for us. If your engine won't idle smoothly, try different carb setups
until it does.
Pete Krotje >>
Now, this really makes sense!....thanks Pete! GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Mark III Building notes |
<< Picked up my steel parts today, the powder coating looks great! I should
be complete with the tail feathers this week. We had a wonderful week here in
south east Texas, If you like rain that is..........not much to do except cut
and flatten 5/16 tubing :-) at one point my wife was at the vise flattening
and rounding, and my 8 year old was helping me with the riveting (I have a
pneu. gun.) What a family outing!!!! I'm one lucky man to have a partner
this excited about getting on with the building......and then flying.
I won't bore "Ya'll" with these posts very often I just wanted to share the
news.
Peace,
Mike Sharp >>
Mike, your messages are the least boring of all ...you have a rare
circumstance with the family effort going on there.....building my firestar
was a wonderful time for me too but if I had my family helping it would have
been GLORIOUS!!....keep us posted!
GeoR38...the ol glider
pilot! & Firestar driver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: straight gear |
<< My partner and another friend devised a modification to the bungee
gear for his N3-Pup. He had problems with the holders of the bungee
cord being too weak and bending. I got tried of trying to land it
when it was lop sided, it was more challenging then. They devised a
method which instead of stretching a bungee in stead compresses
springs. The spring are ones used for press dies in the machine tool
business. It works great and I can honestly say I tested them
thoroughly a few times.
Jerry Bidle
>>
Jerry I'm the one who risked my life flying the N3 pup 100 miles as a first
flight in it for a friend of mine...the risk appeared to have been only in the
under powered aspect of that GREAT little plane. It is SO solid feeling that
the addition of a few HEAVY but effective springs in the gear would fit right
in. The one I flew had a Global engine in it and turned 2800 RPM with a 54
prop at 24 pitch I think....do you have prop specs on the one you flew???
very interested...GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marino, Frank J (Youngstown ARB)" <Frank.Marino(at)yng.afres.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: nose heavy Kolb |
To GeoR38. You talked about you FS being nose heavy. when you do the
weight and balance you will see in the manual that kolb designed the W&B
so that the CG is at the navel of the pilot, if your navel is pushed out
beyone the designed flight limits of your orange flight suit then of
course you will be nose heavy. So this spring we will do a W&B on your
FS.
FRANK J. MARINO
Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
>----------
>From: GeoR38[SMTP:GeoR38(at)aol.com]
>Sent: Sunday, January 11, 1998 9:15 AM
>To: ul15rhb(at)Juno.com; kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: nose heavy Kolb
>
>
><< I cruise at 5500 RPM and still have to hold back stick since I have no
> trim. Stick forces are not that great (maybe a half a pound), so it's not
> that burdensome. At the same RPM without the extra weight, ahead of the
> cg, the cruise speed drops about 5 mph. >>
>Ral;ph, I'm almost a 200#r and my Firestar performed the same way, seemed
>nose
>heavy such that I had to use back pressure all the time. Got to thinking
>...what happens if my elevator quits working due to cable or screw backout.?
>So I put a trim tab on the elevator and at least feel more comfortable about
>the possibility of a successful landing at a reasonable speed if I lose
>control of the elevator as it flies straight and true @ 50 now. I'll just use
>throttle for up/down control! GeoR38 (the ole glider pilot)
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy Kolb |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Thanks 'ol glider pilot. I'm thinking about putting a trim tab on the
elevator.
Another subject:
Have you ever tried soaring your FireStar? Think about it: the lighter
weight and tighter turning radius can compensate for the L/D of a glider
by staying centered in a thermal. With the added option of an engine, an
ultralight doesn't have to make a forced landing.
>
<< I cruise at 5500 RPM and still have to hold back stick since I have
>no trim. Stick forces are not that great (maybe a half a pound), so it's
>not that burdensome. At the same RPM without the extra weight, ahead
>of the cg, the cruise speed drops about 5 mph. >>
>Ralph, I'm almost 200# and my Firestar performed the same way,
>seemed nose heavy such that I had to use back pressure all the time. Got
to
>thinking...what happens if my elevator quits working due to cable or
screw
>backout.? So I put a trim tab on the elevator and at least feel more
comfortable
>about the possibility of a successful landing at a reasonable speed if I
>lose control of the elevator as it flies straight and true @ 50 now.
I'll
>just use throttle for up/down control! GeoR38 (the ole glider pilot)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy Kolb |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
writes:
>To GeoR38. You talked about you FS being nose heavy. when you do the
>weight and balance you will see in the manual that kolb designed the
>W&B so that the CG is at the navel of the pilot, if your navel is pushed
>out beyone the designed flight limits of your orange flight suit then of
>course you will be nose heavy. So this spring we will do a W&B on your
FS.
>
>
>FRANK J. MARINO
>Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
>
Hey Frank,
I always knew my navel stuck out ....... but "that" far out? (just
kidding)
Ralph B.
Original FireStar
>>
>> I cruise at 5500 RPM and still have to hold back stick since I
>have no trim. Stick forces are not that great (maybe a half a pound),
>so it's not that burdensome. At the same RPM without the extra weight,
>ahead of the cg, the cruise speed drops about 5 mph. >>
>>Ralph, I'm almost a 200#'r and my Firestar performed the same way,
>seemed nose heavy such that I had to use back pressure all the time. Got
to
>thinking...what happens if my elevator quits working due to cable or
screw
>backout.? So I put a trim tab on the elevator and at least feel more
>comfortable about the possibility of a successful landing at a
reasonable speed >if I lose control of the elevator as it flies straight
and true @ 50 now. I'll
>just use throttle for up/down control! GeoR38 (the ole glider pilot)
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Swihart <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
Thought I jot down what is happening with the TwinStar my pardner, Denis
and I are
presently rebuilding from the "ground up".
The instrument pod is finished minus the windshield. The inside of the
pod itself
was boring looking with the fiberglass material exposed. So I came up with
a neat way to hide it and give it a touch of class. I sprayed it with
spackle paint bought at the Orchard Supply hardware store in Salinas and
the results are outstanding. I will post pictures of what it looks like
next week.
The comm system was installed above our heads. The old wiring harness was
chucked over our shoulders with new cables installed.
A new voltage regulator was installed when it was determined that the
previous owner flew with the wrong type. I.E. the old one was a charge
regulator for a battery and the owner always wondered why some of his
gauges didn't work properly. The plane never did have a starter installed
in the first place.
A strobe light was mounted on the the muffler bracket above the cyclinder
head. Wether it will stand up to the vibration is a question to be answered.
Wheel pants are being installed since we fly out of dirt strip near San
Antonio lake
which is located 30 miles NW of Paso Robles.
We called Kolb to order a covering kit and found out it would take 6
weeks to deliver which is unacceptable. Denis called Stits on Friday. He
gave them the dimensions and paint colors for the plane. They will have our
package ready to go Monday for pickup from Spruce Aircraft. Its cheaper for
us to drive 200 miles and
pick up the supplies than it is to pay the hazardous material handling and
shipping charges.
I updated my web page with a new statistics page for the TwinStar and
cleaned up
the layout a bit. Next week I'll up load new pic's of our work.
With a little luck and work the plane will be ready for the West Coast
Fly-In in
May.
-Mark-
<http://www.tcsn.net/mswihart/kolb.htm>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Strobe Vibration |
Mark and all,
> A strobe light was mounted on the the muffler bracket above the cyclinder
>head. Wether it will stand up to the vibration is a question to be answered.
If you have the same experience as mine, it lasted about 10 minutes before
the vibration shook a capacitor loose from the strobe innerds... which
effectively "turned out the lights". I relocated it to the top of the vert
stab where it is much happier and has great visibility.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (37.3 hrs)
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fred Steadman : Re: nose heavy Kolb |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
From: Fred Steadman <fstead(at)fastlane.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: nose heavy Kolb
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 11:17:13 -0600
<19980111.110233.7975.0.ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Ralph H Burlingame wrote:
>
> Thanks 'ol glider pilot. I'm thinking about putting a trim tab on the
> elevator.
> Another subject:
> Have you ever tried soaring your FireStar? Think about it: the lighter
> weight and tighter turning radius can compensate for the L/D of a
glider
> by staying centered in a thermal. With the added option of an engine,
an
> ultralight doesn't have to make a forced landing.
>
The long winged Challengers are supposed to be soarable, in fact the
factory demo video shows one in soaring flight with the engine switched
off. Min sink is down in the high twenties I think, so I wouldn't
expect much in the way of upwind penetration.
--------- End forwarded message ----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ERMEL DON DOYLE JR <ermel(at)ix23.ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Twinstar for sale |
01-11-98
To the List :
I have a twinstar for sale she flys great.
5500.00 airframe: less engine, chute& instruments
6500.00 less engine: 503 Rotax
7500.00 complete
If interested :
e-mail:
ermel(at)ix.netcom.com
located in Bakersfield, California
Thanks,
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy Kolb |
<< Another subject:
Have you ever tried soaring your FireStar? Think about it: the lighter
weight and tighter turning radius can compensate for the L/D of a glider
by staying centered in a thermal. With the added option of an engine, an
ultralight doesn't have to make a forced landing.
>>
Of course, Ralph, any one who has soared would try soaring anything short of a
P-51....just teasin....but it is a bit like 2 sailboats on the same lake
constitutes a race!, ie, its a given!
I'm in Ohio so don't have the boomin thermals that exists where I learned in
NM...:Las Cruzes. But I do find them by watching for the birds and have
stories about being attacked by an eagle or sumpin 6ft or so trying to protect
his gaggle! Having gone through the soaring regimen and actually getting my
private ticket there, I got into the habit of landing faster than I fly and my
Kolb never gets below 750 Ft. of runway space
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy Kolb |
writes:
>To GeoR38. You talked about you FS being nose heavy. when you do the
>weight and balance you will see in the manual that kolb designed the
>W&B so that the CG is at the navel of the pilot, if your navel is pushed
>out beyone the designed flight limits of your orange flight suit then of
>course you will be nose heavy. So this spring we will do a W&B on your
FS.
>
>
>FRANK J. MARINO
>Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
>
Hey Frank,
I always knew my navel stuck out ....... but "that" far out? (just
kidding)
Ralph B.
Original FireStar
>>
>> I cruise at 5500 RPM and still have to hold back stick since I
>have no trim. Stick forces are not that great (maybe a half a pound),
>so it's not that burde >>
you guys have no respect....and probably for good reason ........GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Florida boy flies too |
Hi all,
Just to show you Northerners up, I flew yesterday AND today. Of course it
was kinda chilly at 60 degrees. Sure glad I have that nice SS enclosure
:-)
The weather yesterday was great, though a bit chilly at 60 degrees. I flew
for about an hour and a half, mostly just cruising around with no particular
testing to be done. The ASI is still about 5-10 low, but I'm beginning to
lose interest as long as it's stable. I'm running upper 70's in cruise and
that's fast enough for this plane I guess, especially now that I have a
"fix" for the speed problem in the works. As I mentioned, the SS will go at
some point, but the question is sooner, or later. On the way to the
airport, I was thinking sooner, and after the flight I was thinking later.
Went flying again today because the weather was perfect and we have in-laws
in the house (going on week 2). Flew by the house for their benefit, then
down to the beach. I dropped down to about 300 feet and just cruised along
the gulf. It was pretty damn nice. Maybe I can fold the SS up and keep it
in the corner when the RV-8 gets finished. Lots of people waved and shot
video of me, and with any luck, none of them turned me in to the FAA :-)
Build quick, fly soon.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K (17.8 hours)
RV-8 (Kit is in the mail)
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Aileron gap seals, info request |
I have been using the Manco Polytape clear polyethylene tape in 2" and 1"
widths for aileron gap seals. Most of it stayed on for half a season. Maybe
it would have worked better if I had cleaned the surfaces with wax and grease
remover (although they should have been clean, they were not waxed and only
a month after painting).
I understand there is a product referred to as "book binding tape" by Kolb
Co. and others. Is this the best name for it, to ask for locally? Is there
anyone using it with success? Sources and prices mailorder?
Thanks guys.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron gap seals, info request |
> I understand there is a product referred to as "book binding tape" by
Kolb
>Co. and others. Is this the best name for it, to ask for locally? Is
there
>anyone using it with success? Sources and prices mailorder?
Kolb recommended Scotch Book Binding Tape which is made by 3M. It is also
identified by the number 845. This comes in a 2" width, so you can either
split it to make the 1" piece, or do like I did, and use some other type of
tape for the 1" part. I used a reinforced packing tape for mine. I bought
the 845 tape at Office Depot. It was just sitting right there on the shelf.
So far, mine is holding perfectly after about 4 months and almost 18 hours
of flying. I think Kolb's SS went about a year and a half before theirs
started to peel.
Good luck.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
| Subject: | Bookbinding tape widths. |
The tape comes in many different widths. I bought mine through a office
supply company, and got a selection of different widths. I think the 3
or 4 inch was the most useful.
>Kolb recommended Scotch Book Binding Tape which is made by 3M.
It is also
> identified by the number 845.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: TwinStar Update |
On Sun, 11 Jan 1998, Mark Swihart wrote:
> A strobe light was mounted on the the muffler bracket above the cyclinder
> head. Wether it will stand up to the vibration is a question to be answered.
Mark/Dennis,
Sounds like good progress on the twinstar. However, i'd suggest a
different location for the strobe. Kuntzleman says install his strobe
on anything EXCEPT the engine. Considering the god-awful vibration of
a 2-stroke, that seems pretty reasonable. FWIW, I installed mine on
the lexan gap seal with an aluminum piece underneath to help spread the
rivit load. There is a small blind spot where the strobe can't be seen
from behind the plane, but installation/wiring is duck soup.
PS I think I'll start lobbying the home schedule keeper for giving me
May 1-3 (PRUA fly-in).
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Sun, 11 Jan 1998, Ralph H Burlingame wrote:
> The long winged Challengers are supposed to be soarable, in fact the
> factory demo video shows one in soaring flight with the engine switched
> off. Min sink is down in the high twenties I think, so I wouldn't
> expect much in the way of upwind penetration.
"high twenties" seems waaaay too high.
Also, I don't really think it is reasonable to call Challengers or Kolbs
soarable, at least not within ear-shot of a glider pilot. :-) I flew
w/ a friend who owned a Challenger and it seemed in the same ballpark
in performance as my FS. (i said ballpark, not equal :-)). Anyway,
minimum sink is about 8:1, at least that is what I measured in my FS
on a 95 degree day at 1k-0.5k MSL. Best glide (penetration) ain't much
better, maybe 8.5. An old glider gets closer to 20:1 minimum sink, right?
I'm vain enf to also guess that a wired Quicksilver glide ratio is closer
to 4 or 5:1 so in that respect the cleaner ULs are a huge step up.
I do think it is kinda fun to pretend you are a glider by searching
thermals or playing ridge lift, but I've only just throttled back to 3 -
3.5k rpm, which might improve my best glide ratio to maybe 15:1 or so.
BTW, 15:1 at 35-40 mph means only ~200 fpm drop, not bad! If it gets
boring in 30 seconds, you can always throttle up and go play some other
game. :-)
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Ben Ransom wrote:
> Anyway,
> minimum sink is about 8:1, at least that is what I measured in my FS
> on a 95 degree day at 1k-0.5k MSL. Best glide (penetration) ain't much
> better, maybe 8.5. An old glider gets closer to 20:1 minimum sink, right?
You are correct, Ben. I have measured the sink on my original 377
Firestar many times and the numbers are in line with yours. I see 8.8:1
at minimum sink, 375 to 400 f/m, and 9.0:1 at best. My readings were in
smooth, cool air, above thermals, and I used an electronic variometer.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: MUFFLER RUBBERS |
How many hrs since you installed them? After my 4th set(@ 300 hrs) I
redesigned the bracket orientation so that the centerline of the
bolts are perpendicular rather than parallel to the exhaust and I
placed two bushings(CPS) set at 90 degr at the front , one at the
12 o`clock and the other at 3 o`clock between the engine and
exhaust. They still look good after 130 hrs running.
Frank Reynen MkIII@430 hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
I just removed the muffler from a 582, and the rubbers are checked . I
want to replace them and someone on the net suggested a replacement from
an automotive store. Any one have any ideas, actually I live about 15
miles from Green Sky Adventures Rotax Dealers I probably should just get
them there. Do I sound confused.
FRANK J. MARINO
Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Ben,
You may have confused me with someone else, but I didn't write this part
about the minimum sink being in the "high twenties" or about the
Challengers (just to set the record straight).
I did, however, gain 2000' once, while throttled back, in a strong
thermal.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
Sun, 11 Jan 1998, Ralph H Burlingame wrote (no not me):
>> The long winged Challengers are supposed to be soarable, in fact the
>> factory demo video shows one in soaring flight with the engine
switched
>> off. Min sink is down in the high twenties I think, so I wouldn't
>> expect much in the way of upwind penetration.
>
>"high twenties" seems waaaay too high.
>
>Also, I don't really think it is reasonable to call Challengers or
>Kolbs
>soarable, at least not within ear-shot of a glider pilot. :-) I flew
>w/ a friend who owned a Challenger and it seemed in the same ballpark
>in performance as my FS. (i said ballpark, not equal :-)). Anyway,
>minimum sink is about 8:1, at least that is what I measured in my FS
>on a 95 degree day at 1k-0.5k MSL. Best glide (penetration) ain't
>much
>better, maybe 8.5. An old glider gets closer to 20:1 minimum sink,
>right?
>I'm vain enf to also guess that a wired Quicksilver glide ratio is
>closer
>to 4 or 5:1 so in that respect the cleaner ULs are a huge step up.
>
>I do think it is kinda fun to pretend you are a glider by searching
>thermals or playing ridge lift, but I've only just throttled back to 3
>-
>3.5k rpm, which might improve my best glide ratio to maybe 15:1 or so.
>BTW, 15:1 at 35-40 mph means only ~200 fpm drop, not bad! If it gets
>boring in 30 seconds, you can always throttle up and go play some
>other
>game. :-)
>
>-Ben Ransom
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy Kolb |
I got into the habit of landing faster than I fly and my
>Kolb never gets below 750 Ft. of runway space
>GeoR38
My little airstrip (3TN0) is only about 750' long, and is one way in, one
way out, slam dunk over the powerlines, shoot the gap through the hedgerow,
and no go around once the wheels touch. Maybe that's why I got into the
habit of always landing slower than I fly...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Drag strut fitting looseness repair. |
Mick Fine, and other Kolbers:
Here is what I did to correct the rotational slop in the drag strut
fittings, a problem I believe was aggravated by trailering. By the way,
upon closer examination, BOTH fittings had the problem. I had
originally greased them because I had to sand off the primer to get
them into the drag strut, this grease was probably allowing some slip
so the force all had to be taken by the bolt shank against the edges
of the 1/4" hole thru the fitting. The 1/4" hole thru the fitting had
elongated slightly, and the bolts had wear marks too.
I removed the fitting after adding an access hole in the bottom
surface of the wing fabric, and melting a 1/2" X 1" wrench hole in the
inboard butt-end of the wing.
I cleaned off all the grease from the fitting and from the inside of
the drag strut tube. I then carefully drilled in steps, the 1/4"
thru-hole in the fitting, until it was 5/16". I next took a piece of
leftover 5/16" OD 4130 tubing and drove it thru the 5/16" thru-hole.
This was a nice interferance fit. Your results (drill sizes) may
vary.
After cutting the 5/16" cross-tube down flush with a hacksaw, I filed
it down smooth to the drag strut fitting OD. So then I had a drag
strut fitting with a cross-tube reinforcement, with a inside diameter
of 1/4" to accept the 1/4" bolt.
I added some epoxy glue to both the inside of the drag strut tube and
the outside of the steel fitting. And slid it together. I used new
bolts because the wear was evident on the shanks of the old ones as
small nicks located where the edges of the drag strut fitting steel
tubing was rocking against the bolt shank (four nicks on each bolt).
I used new nylock nuts also.
It tightened better this time, it seemed
to get to a point and get solid, as the sleeved tubes drew down
against the cross-tube's compressive strength. I used care not to
overtorq.
I believe this is a big improvement because:
1. no grease (probably the main trouble originally), in fact epoxy glue
2. the cross-tube allows proper tightening instead of "mushing".
3. the cross-tube provides huge surface area to the bolt shank,
eliminating point contact wear.
I preferred not drilling out to a 5/16" bolt because I could not do so
conveniently inside the wing (angle drill, short bit, filings all over
inside the wing cutting holes in my fabric later).
So file it away in case this one ever comes to haunt you.
The HPC-coated exhaust came back Friday. It makes me want to send
them everything I own. Will it always stay looking that great?!
Thanks for the replies for the aileron gap seal tape (3M 845, 3" width), I
found it on the shelf at the local office supply store for $9.00 for 15 yards.
See ya.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | RE: MUFFLER RUBBERS |
The original bushings come with a metal spacer to properly compress the
rubberbushing. If you do not have this in your setup that maybe
the reason why the bushings failed.
Even with the bushing installed per CPS instructions, you will see
premature failing due to the the direction the exhaust vibrates
and therefore a redesigned bushing bracket that takes the
vibrating forces through the direction of the bolt centerline can
take the stress a lot longer.
If you need more help on this let me know. I will try to get this bracket
design on the E-mail.
Frank Reynen
Hi Frank: when I took the muffler rubbers off I had 31 hours, I think I
might have tighten the bolts too tight. The one close to the prop or aft
end was the worst. Any suggestions, I was thinking about ordering fron
CPS about 50 of them their cheaper that way.
FRANK J. MARINO
Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
>----------
>From:
>
Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com[SMTP:Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com]
>Sent: Monday, January 12, 1998 4:03 PM
>To: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: MUFFLER RUBBERS
>
>
>How many hrs since you installed them? After my 4th set(@ 300 hrs) I
> redesigned the bracket orientation so that the centerline of the
> bolts are perpendicular rather than parallel to the exhaust and
I
> placed two bushings(CPS) set at 90 degr at the front , one at
the
> 12 o`clock and the other at 3 o`clock between the engine and
> exhaust. They still look good after 130 hrs running.
>
>Frank Reynen MkIII@430 hrs
>http://www.webcom.com/reynen
>
>
>I just removed the muffler from a 582, and the rubbers are checked . I
>want to replace them and someone on the net suggested a replacement from
>an automotive store. Any one have any ideas, actually I live about 15
>miles from Green Sky Adventures Rotax Dealers I probably should just get
>them there. Do I sound confused.
>
>FRANK J. MARINO
>Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
>-
>
>
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: MUFFLER mounts |
The front setup has two attachment points, one part of the (inverted
L-bracket )goes over the top of the exhaust can and the 12 o` clock bushing
assy is suspended from this part straight down to the centerline of the
exhaust can. The second bushing sits on the engine side of the exhaust can
using the same bandclamp and is suspended horizontally between the exhaust
can and the mounting bracket with the bolt direction from the can
centerline trough the engine.If this is still not clear (I mentioned this
also to Frank Marino,)I will get a picture on the E-mail. The backside
bushing still has the original CPS design with the spacer.
Frank Reynen
> How many hrs since you installed them? After my 4th set(@ 300 hrs) I
> redesigned the bracket orientation so that the centerline of
the
> bolts are perpendicular rather than parallel to the exhaust and
I
> placed two bushings(CPS) set at 90 degr at the front , one at
the
> 12 o`clock and the other at 3 o`clock between the engine and
> exhaust. They still look good after 130 hrs running.
Having trouble envisioning your setup. Is the bracket still at the
side or on top? I had to design my own brackets for a Hirth 2704 and
suspended the muffler system from an aluminum mount that is
integral with the engine mount. There are two brackets welded to the
muffler can. Sorta like....
______
| O
|
|
___ __|
I'd seen too many rubber bushings chewed up by the Rotax mount to use
that method. 140 hrs and no problems.
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drag strut fitting looseness repair. |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
JIM
The bolt that you are talking about has always been a problem with me
,not knowing the condition it may be in . Plus when I put the bolt in I
remember how it felt when I tighten it down it felt as it wanted to break
,but it was as I tighten it up the tubing at the drag strut fitting
compressed just a bit , well time went by then the covering went on the
wings and was ready for the poly-tone.But the I remembered how the bolt
felt when I put it in so I put an inspection cover just under the bolt on
the drag strut ,now I can change it out and I did but nothing was wrong
with it but it did remove the doubt about that bolt . the inspection was
no trouble to put in and I am glad that I did .
RICK LIBERSAT
writes:
>Mick Fine, and other Kolbers:
>
>Here is what I did to correct the rotational slop in the drag strut
>fittings, a problem I believe was aggravated by trailering. By the
>way,
>upon closer examination, BOTH fittings had the problem. I had
>originally greased them because I had to sand off the primer to get
>them into the drag strut, this grease was probably allowing some slip
>so the force all had to be taken by the bolt shank against the edges
>of the 1/4" hole thru the fitting. The 1/4" hole thru the fitting had
>elongated slightly, and the bolts had wear marks too.
>
>I removed the fitting after adding an access hole in the bottom
>surface of the wing fabric, and melting a 1/2" X 1" wrench hole in the
>inboard butt-end of the wing.
>
>I cleaned off all the grease from the fitting and from the inside of
>the drag strut tube. I then carefully drilled in steps, the 1/4"
>thru-hole in the fitting, until it was 5/16". I next took a piece of
>leftover 5/16" OD 4130 tubing and drove it thru the 5/16" thru-hole.
>This was a nice interferance fit. Your results (drill sizes) may
>vary.
>
>After cutting the 5/16" cross-tube down flush with a hacksaw, I filed
>it down smooth to the drag strut fitting OD. So then I had a drag
>strut fitting with a cross-tube reinforcement, with a inside diameter
>of 1/4" to accept the 1/4" bolt.
>
>I added some epoxy glue to both the inside of the drag strut tube and
>the outside of the steel fitting. And slid it together. I used new
>bolts because the wear was evident on the shanks of the old ones as
>small nicks located where the edges of the drag strut fitting steel
>tubing was rocking against the bolt shank (four nicks on each bolt).
>I used new nylock nuts also.
> It tightened better this time, it seemed
>to get to a point and get solid, as the sleeved tubes drew down
>against the cross-tube's compressive strength. I used care not to
>overtorq.
>
> I believe this is a big improvement because:
> 1. no grease (probably the main trouble originally), in fact epoxy
>glue
> 2. the cross-tube allows proper tightening instead of "mushing".
> 3. the cross-tube provides huge surface area to the bolt shank,
> eliminating point contact wear.
>
>I preferred not drilling out to a 5/16" bolt because I could not do so
>conveniently inside the wing (angle drill, short bit, filings all over
>inside the wing cutting holes in my fabric later).
>
>So file it away in case this one ever comes to haunt you.
>
>The HPC-coated exhaust came back Friday. It makes me want to send
>them everything I own. Will it always stay looking that great?!
>
>Thanks for the replies for the aileron gap seal tape (3M 845, 3"
>width), I
>found it on the shelf at the local office supply store for $9.00 for
>15 yards.
>
>See ya.....
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: Aileron gap seals, info request |
My partner and I decided it was time to experiment. We considered
using the book binding tape but had heard it would only last about 2
years then cracks and could be difficult to remove. It also wasn't UV
resistant which might be important in Texas. So we decided to try
alternative, automotive stripping tape on our FireFly. You can get it
from 1/16" wide to many inches and is available in many different
colors.
We got the 2" and 1", cut a 2" piece to the length required and laid a
piece of the 1" on the stick surface of the 2". (Adhesive to
adhesive) There's a very thin plastic coating on it for protecting
when rubbing it down during the application process. Applying it you
use a hard plastic tool which puts you mind of the spreader you get
should have or not. It is easier the work with while it on. The 1"
film was more pronounced than that on the 2", the 2" was very
difficult to get it started for separation.
Results:
We had to replace 1 piece so far as it cracked. We blame this on our
molesting it while reworking the elevator control deflection.
So far it appears to be sticking and holding up fairly well. We have
very limited flight time yet so until this summer (hot Texas heat) we
really will not know what it will do. So far so good. We'll provide
status on it later. One thing once it does stick it adheres very well
thus taking it off we pulled a little paint off on the piece we
replaced. It was simple touch up but you have to think about it.
Unfortunately I would have preferred the 3M brand but couldn't find it
locally thus had to settle on another brand. 3M makes good tape
products, you pay for it but it works and it lasts.
Another bit of info. While in Australia I happen into a graphic sign
shop. There you could buy what ever width or color material you want.
In the states their know as Fast Sign but their product is more
limited. They do sell a level of UV resistant graphic vinyl tape, but
grab your shorts when you ask the price.
Jerry & Gary
FireFly
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Aileron gap seals, info request
Date: 1/11/98 1:54 PM
> I understand there is a product referred to as "book binding tape" by
Kolb
>Co. and others. Is this the best name for it, to ask for locally? Is
there
>anyone using it with success? Sources and prices mailorder?
Kolb recommended Scotch Book Binding Tape which is made by 3M. It is also
identified by the number 845. This comes in a 2" width, so you can either
split it to make the 1" piece, or do like I did, and use some other type of
tape for the 1" part. I used a reinforced packing tape for mine. I bought
the 845 tape at Office Depot. It was just sitting right there on the shelf.
So far, mine is holding perfectly after about 4 months and almost 18 hours
of flying. I think Kolb's SS went about a year and a half before theirs
started to peel.
Good luck.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: nose heavy Kolb |
OUCH! That's getting to close to home.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: RE: nose heavy Kolb
MAILGATE
Date: 1/11/98 1:44 PM
To GeoR38. You talked about you FS being nose heavy. when you do the
weight and balance you will see in the manual that kolb designed the W&B
so that the CG is at the navel of the pilot, if your navel is pushed out
beyone the designed flight limits of your orange flight suit then of
course you will be nose heavy. So this spring we will do a W&B on your
FS.
FRANK J. MARINO
Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
snip...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bonomo <bonomo(at)hawke.com> |
| Subject: | WTB: Kolb Mark III |
Looking for a Mark III, with trailer, if available.
Cheers!
Tom Bonomo
719.593.9883
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
Dear Kolb Fans,
I have created a webpage with some pictures and links to other UL and
supplier sites at:
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair/
Let me know what you think!
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drag strut fitting looseness repair. |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>....Here is what I did to correct the rotational slop in the drag strut
>fittings, a problem I believe was aggravated by trailering......
Jim,
Thanks a million for the follow-up! Sounds like a good fix to me. My
wings already have an inspection plate directly under the drag strut
bolt, but I was wondering how I would get a wrench (2 wrenches actually)
thru that small opening. This brings up another question for the group:
Is there any reason I can't remove most of the fabric which closes the
"root-ribs"? My Flyer root-ribs are only closed from the aft spar back to
the trailing edge. This leaves a good place to store light items like a
jacket or change of clothes (bungied to some structure of course). The
only problem I ever had was one spring when I was out of town for several
months, a sparrow decided to build a nest in my left wing (WHAT A
MESS!!). Another plus to this is being able to visually inspect the wing
innards very well.
Thanks again for the info, Jim. I will print your message and put it in
the binder with the some other priceless tips I have received from this
list. In 20 years of working with computers, I've never seen a binder
crash!
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Muffler mounting |
Dumb question: Why do we rubber-mount part of our exhaust system?
I am serious, the real answer will tell me how tight to make the isolation
system. Am I trying to make it difficult for the engine vibrations to reach
the muffler? Or am I trying to keep vibration pulses in the muffler from
reaching the engine and airframe? Or is the isolation really just for
expansion/contraction (due to temperature change) adjustability?
Maybe there is another reason I haven't considered.
My point is, my rubber dampers are kindof flat and hard compared to when
they were new, but is this bad, or good? What is the vibration source I am
trying to isolate and what range of frequencies does it produce? These are
important questions to answer before designing (or tuning by tightening) any
vibration isolation system.
Frank, I would love to see your muffler mount ideas, if you can post.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank & Winnie Hodson <fwhodson(at)megalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT & flight test questions |
-- John:
Re: A good ELT price/value.
I am satisfied with the Ameri-King AK-450 in my FS II project. It cost
$189.95 from Aircraft Spruce (www.aircraft-spruce.com) 1-800-824-1930.
-the ELT fits nicely under the pilots seat on the right side.
-the antena was mounted to a bracket rivited to the gas tank tray.
-the installed weight is less than 3 lbs.
-it uses relative inexpensive alkaline batteries (included with
purchase)
Happy Building: Frank Hodson, Oxford Maine
P.S. Sorry I didn't see your message sooner, Today is the first full
day we have had electricity here since last wednesday. Ice anyone?
fwhodson@megalink.net | http://www.megalink.net/~fwhodson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Lloyd <lloyd(at)vermontel.com> |
>
>PASS THIS ON, DON'T PUT THIS OFF TILL LATER!
>
>I am writing you this to inform you of a very important matter
>currently under review by the FCC. Your local telephone company has
>filed a proposal with the FCC to impose per minute charges for your
>internet service. They contend that your usage has or will hinder the
>operation of the telephone network.
>
>It is my belief that internet usage will diminish if users were
>required to pay additional per minute charges. The FCC has created an
>email box for your comments, responses must be received by February
>13, 1998. Send your comments and tell them what you think.
> mail to: isp(at)fcc.gov
>
>Every phone company is in on this one, and they are trying to sneak it
>in just under the wire for litigation. Let everyone you know hear
>this one. Get the e-mail address to everyone you can think of.
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ABtj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
Thanks to all for the "flowers" about my webpage. I will try to keep it
updated and BTW, the price was right - notta. Angelfire gives you 200KB
free for nuttin' and will give you more if you have enough traffic so
keep comin' back!
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Any News on Fly-In at Cedar Mills |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
On Wed, 14 Jan 98 00:12:48 cst jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com writes:
> Hi Mick,
>
> Not sure your involved with the group up there that put together
>the
> fly in last June at Cedar Mill marina but if so what's the date.
>
> We need to get our camping reservation in.
>
> It was great last year, fantastic. Job well done!!!!
>
> It was better than Sun & Fun. Hear that Paul & Tom P.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Bidle
> FireFly - 100%
Jerry,
I wish our club could take credit for the Cedar Mills succcess! I was
there but drove in, (C2 was down and that's a long way for the Flyer!) I
believe the head honcho was Sam Cox, he is a regular on the FLY-UL list
and I believe this address is correct:
lightflyer(at)classic.msn.com
Our club newsletter lists the date for this year's event as June 26-28
and a phone number for more info - (903) 523-4200. See ya there!
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>Nice Site!
>
>I as of yet do not own a UL/airplane but am very seriously looking at
>the Kolb SlingShot. You seem to have been around allot of ULs and
>wondered if you could help with something that has been puzzling me. I
>once saw an UL biplane looking very much like the EAA Bipe. I believe
>the owner said it was made by "Fisher". I searched the net and found
>nothing of a Fisher biplane ultralight. I would really love this type
>of
>machine if it is stile available. Have you seen or heard of this? What
>do you think of the SlingShot?
>
Thanks Doug,
There are actually 2 "Fisher" companies selling kits, "Fisher Aero Corp."
(FAC) and "Fisher Flying Products" (FFP). My info comes from the Dec. '97
Kitplanes Homebuilt Directory: FAC sells 2 biplane kits. FFP sells 3. The
only one that would come close to an "ultralight" is the FFP 404. If
you're trying to stay UL-legal, a Sorrel Hyperlite is about the only
biplane I can think of that can be built light enough (Sorrel is not
listed in the Homebuilt Directory - out of business?). Here's a couple
addresses anyway:
Fisher Aero Corp.
7118 State Route 335
Portsmouth, OH 45662
(614) 820-2219
Fisher Flying Products
P.O. Box 468
Edgely, ND 58433
(701) 493-2286
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffler mounting |
Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
>
> Dumb question: Why do we rubber-mount part of our exhaust system?
> I am serious, the real answer will tell me how tight to make the isolation
> system. Am I trying to make it difficult for the engine vibrations to reach
> the muffler?
Yes, the mufflers would not stay together very long if they were solidly
mounted.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffler mounting |
> Dumb question: Why do we rubber-mount part of our exhaust system?
> I am serious, the real answer will tell me how tight to make the isolation
>system. Am I trying to make it difficult for the engine vibrations to reach
>the muffler? Or am I trying to keep vibration pulses in the muffler from
>reaching the engine and airframe? Or is the isolation really just for
>expansion/contraction (due to temperature change) adjustability?
>Maybe there is another reason I haven't considered.
>
The way the exhaust system is hung out away from the engine on the Kolb's
is a good example of a need for flex. The way the engine shakes at low RPM,
and vibrates at high RPM, it has to have at least one, and on some systems,
two ball joints to keep it from cracking somewhere. It is impossible to
make it rigid enough to keep it from cracking, so go the other way, and let
it flex under control.
I use the rubber hangers from heavy duty truck muffler hanger supports
(AutoZone, $1.99) bolted to a bracket bolted to the crankcase on my 532.
Bolted to the rubber at the other end, there is a bracket strapped under a
band clamp made from 1/8"x1/4" black weldable steel that I got at Tractor
Supply. Make up one each for the front and rear tapped holes in the side of
the block, and at each muffler end, a clamp around the can. I have used
this setup on both airplanes that had 532's and it is trouble free, replace
the rubber annually for 4 dollars.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Henry <chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu> |
>writes:
>>Nice Site!
>>
>>I as of yet do not own a UL/airplane but am very seriously looking at
>>the Kolb SlingShot. You seem to have been around allot of ULs and
>>wondered if you could help with something that has been puzzling me. I
>>once saw an UL biplane looking very much like the EAA Bipe. I believe
>>the owner said it was made by "Fisher". I searched the net and found
>>nothing of a Fisher biplane ultralight. I would really love this type
>>of
>>machine if it is stile available. Have you seen or heard of this? What
>>do you think of the SlingShot?
>
>Fisher Flying Products
>P.O. Box 468
>Edgely, ND 58433
>(701) 493-2286
>
Doug
Check out the FFP website at www.fisherflying.com
The 404 sounds like what you are talking about but is slightly out of part 103.
Charles Henry
Hankinson, ND
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffler mounting |
Richard Pike wrote:
> I use the rubber hangers from heavy duty truck muffler hanger supports
> (AutoZone, $1.99) bolted to a bracket bolted to the crankcase on my 532.
> Bolted to the rubber at the other end, there is a bracket strapped under a
> band clamp made from 1/8"x1/4" black weldable steel that I got at Tractor
> Supply. Make up one each for the front and rear tapped holes in the side of
> the block, and at each muffler end, a clamp around the can. I have used
> this setup on both airplanes that had 532's and it is trouble free, replace
> the rubber annually for 4 dollars.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
Richard,
It sounds like you may have a good solution there. A friend of mine
can't seem to keep a muffer on his 582, and is looking for a solution
like yours. Do you have any pictures? I have trouble visualizing it. I
suspect that others would benefit also.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop <Cavuontop(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffler mounting |
<< > Dumb question: Why do we rubber-mount part of our exhaust system? >>
Not a dumb question really. But my experience suggests that you really want
the shock absorption. I was at 1500' over Hopewell NJ, having just departed
the gliderport at Erwinna, PA with my wife in the right seat of my Mark 11
when the big circular weld that connects the exhaust manifold to the can of
the muffler let go entirely. Put another way, the exhaust manifold separated
completely from the muffler. It rotated about 45 degrees to the outboard side
and just hung there held by the springs. I suspect now that there was a
hairline crack that caused the weld to work harden so that it failed
catastrophically. Interestingly enough, the engine continued to run, but had
almost no power.
This was the old style two piece muffer which Rotax has since phased
out. But the lesson learned was important. A rotax muffer can develop cracks
that are only visible when the muffler is at operating temps. Also, keep in
mind that the manifold parts are just stampings welded on the edges. I think
that a high quality light color coating on the mufflr is important because it
will help you to see a crack.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marino, Frank J (Youngstown ARB)" <Frank.Marino(at)yng.afres.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: Muffler mounting |
I originally asked about substitute rubber muffler mounts for the 582, I
checked the rubber on mine and they were in bad shape after 31 hours. I
went to Green Sky Aventures the oldest rotax dealer and repair station
in the U.S. to get new ones but they were closed, will have to try
again. They only cost about .50 a piece. But if someone knows of a
better substitute let me know.
FRANK J. MARINO
Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
>----------
>From: John Jung[SMTP:jrjung(at)execpc.com]
>Sent: Thursday, January 15, 1998 3:04 AM
>To: Kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: Muffler mounting
>
>Richard Pike wrote:
>> I use the rubber hangers from heavy duty truck muffler hanger
>>supports
>> (AutoZone, $1.99) bolted to a bracket bolted to the crankcase on my 532.
>> Bolted to the rubber at the other end, there is a bracket strapped under a
>> band clamp made from 1/8"x1/4" black weldable steel that I got at Tractor
>> Supply. Make up one each for the front and rear tapped holes in the side of
>> the block, and at each muffler end, a clamp around the can. I have used
>> this setup on both airplanes that had 532's and it is trouble free, replace
>> the rubber annually for 4 dollars.
>>
>> Richard Pike
>> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>Richard,
> It sounds like you may have a good solution there. A friend of mine
>can't seem to keep a muffer on his 582, and is looking for a solution
>like yours. Do you have any pictures? I have trouble visualizing it. I
>suspect that others would benefit also.
>John Jung
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffler mounting |
> From: Cavuontop <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
> when the big circular weld that connects the exhaust manifold to the can of
> the muffler let go entirely.
and
> hairline crack that caused the weld to work harden so that it failed
> catastrophically.
You betcha it can. But most often it's the poor design ( read that
"poor designer") that causes the problem. I put myself into that
category. I designed and built a really neat machined mount that
bolted onto the front (mag end) of my Hirth. Poor analysis on my part
caused it to fail within 1.5 hours. Same failure mode as above except
I caught it as an EGT rise and the weld had only failed about 75% of
the circumference.
My current mount is now an integral part of the motor mount with the
muffler can suspended by two brackets welded to the top of the
muffler can. Overdesigned but no problems for 130 hrs either.
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | muffler supports |
Several people have asked what the brackets and rubber supports from the
truck muffler hanger system look like. I do not have a web page, and right
now the exhaust system is all apart, doing the winter annual/modification
thing. But if someone has a web page and they want to add the picture to it
for a while, I will reassemble it,( won't take but a few minutes, it
doesn't need to be airworthy just to get pictures) shoot a picture, and
send you a JPEG file to post. Let me know.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
In follow-on to Jim Gerken's post about his drag strut fitting
repair, i thought i'd post a few comments about epoxy.
Make yourself comfortable, i got carried away.
I had not really liked the looks of the potential vibration at that same
fitting, and added an epoxy there when i built my KXP. I also used little
bits of different kinds of epoxy in a few other places on the plane.
My intent in most all use of epoxy was in spreading out vibration loads.
I think it is helpful to try to pay some attention to what epoxy we choose
for which task. We are probably all relying mostly on intuition as the
design process for the right elasticity and other epoxy characteristics
is very heady stuff.
My primary concern with use of epoxies is elasticity.
My loose intuition here is to use a more elastic
epoxy if there is probably some movement expected. A more
brittle epoxy might be appropriate where essentially no
is expected, but you know there is microscopic movement.
The elastic or plastic nature of epoxies make them good at
absorbing strain (movement due to force). Vibration is a lot
of temporary strains, switching directions at high frequency,
and steel bolts wearing on thru-holes prove this.
In most mechanical joints (such as the wing pins and drag strut
fittings), a single pin is used. This allows strain movements
near the joint without concentrating killer loads on the members
right near the joint. I think epoxy can be good to dampen the
strain movements. But too brittle an epoxy defeats the purpose
of a pinned joint, and too soft an epoxy will do nothing at all.
all.
My secondary concern w/ epoxy is from having seen total mis-use.
I decided not to buy a FS once because the user had glopped epoxy
around a joint (fuselage into steel cage ring) that he had not
fitted adequately for rivet edge distance. :-/ Epoxies without
a tensile fiber composite or other structure (like the rest
of the normal drag strut fitting) don't do squat.
So, after this unsolicited and totally amateur blurb, here's the few
areas where I used epoxy, and which epoxy i chose.
1. drag strut fitting. to absorb and spread out vibration loads.
I used stuff called PRC 890 B 2. This from my brother Jim, an
A&P. Thankyou Jim! PRC, Products Research Corporation, is in Nevada
and their stuff is used a lot by A&Ps. B is the middle of A,B,C
elasticities available, and 2 is 2 hours curing time. Ask your
friendly nearby A&P if he's got any that just went past the FAA
shelf expiration date; it is still good enf for us lawn chair fliers.
It is also fuel proof, used as a fuel tank sealer, and will be Hell
to ever remove from anything.
2. Tail wheel strut to steel tube. same as above (PRC)
3. Dabbed PRC on steel drag strut braces where they barely contact
aluminum ribs.
see http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/build/8drgstr.html if
you're still with me.
4. At rib flange to main spar joint. On this I used some typical
HW store 50:50 epoxy that was the more elastic of two choices.
It is much harder than the PRC, but I could still make a thumbnail
dent in it when cured. I didn't want the harder version as
I thought too brittle might eventually just crack out of the joint.
Again, I wanted to absorb possible vibration wear instead of letting
it be carried by the 8 little rivets that attach each rib. You can
see this as shiney green stuff in last URL photo.
5. A few other small miscellaneous spots too scattered to mention.
Overall, it is reasonable to expect stock Kolb ULs to last a long time.
My thinking is that adding the epoxy maybe doubles frame life in some
areas. Weight penalty and build time penalty is negligible.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
<< I do think it is kinda fun to pretend you are a glider by searching
thermals or playing ridge lift, but I've only just throttled back to 3 -
3.5k rpm, which might improve my best glide ratio to maybe 15:1 or so.
BTW, 15:1 at 35-40 mph means only ~200 fpm drop, not bad! If it gets
boring in 30 seconds, you can always throttle up and go play some other
game. :-) >>
Congratulations Ben...I agree with everything you said and must say that that
is exactly the way I "soar" also because the thermals here in Ohio don't seem
to be much higher than 200 ft/min as opposed to New Mexico where the
variometer spoke 1000 ft /min regularly in the desert!! Also there is no puffy
cloud indicator around here of a thermal ....that's why it is necessary to
watch for the gaggle of birds.
Also, I've never measured the Firestar here, but my old Pterodactyl regularly
"soared" (with engine on idle) at 4.5 to 5:1 L/D. everytime I measured it.
I'm pretty sure the Firestar does better but I'd be surprised if it was better
than 7:1...just a guess.My firestar seems to do poorly at 30-35
Mph....probably due to the high densitly "navel" weight (according to
Frank...who weighs at least 250# .. I think) that I carry around (195 lb).
Frank M is much heavier than I so he had to buy a BIG Mk III.
I must admit, however, that it is quite nice, even without the gawdy flying
tiger teeth he paid through the nose and didn't use. I'm just trying to
get him to be my friend....its obvious, isn't it.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy Kolb |
<< I got into the habit of landing faster than I fly and my
>Kolb never gets below 750 Ft. of runway space
>GeoR38
My little airstrip (3TN0) is only about 750' long, and is one way in,
one
way out, slam dunk over the powerlines, shoot the gap through the hedgerow,
and no go around once the wheels touch. Maybe that's why I got into the
habit of always landing slower than I fly...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >>
Isn't it amazing how necessity can be a mother.....I think I am just going to
have to do a bunch of proctice....how much do you usually use and how much do
you weigh?
And what is 3TN0? is that an AOPA designator?
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: nose heavy Kolb |
<< I got into the habit of landing faster than I fly and my
>Kolb never gets below 750 Ft. of runway space
>GeoR38
My little airstrip (3TN0) is only about 750' long, and is one way in,
one
way out, slam dunk over the powerlines, shoot the gap through the hedgerow,
and no go around once the wheels touch. Maybe that's why I got into the
habit of always landing slower than I fly...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >>
Isn't it amazing how necessity can be a mother.....I think I am just going to
have to do a bunch of proctice....how much do you usually use and how much do
you weigh?
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>
><< I got into the habit of landing faster than I fly and my
> >Kolb never gets below 750 Ft. of runway space
> >GeoR38
>
> My little airstrip (3TN0) is only about 750' long, and is one way in,
one
> way out, slam dunk over the powerlines, shoot the gap through the hedgerow,
> and no go around once the wheels touch. Maybe that's why I got into the
> habit of always landing slower than I fly...
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >>
>Isn't it amazing how necessity can be a mother.....I think I am just going to
>have to do a bunch of proctice....how much do you usually use and how much do
>you weigh?
> And what is 3TN0? is that an AOPA designator?
>GeoR38
>
3TN0 is the Airport I.D. # that is in the Airports Directory.
I normally use about 400 feet to land and stop. Solo I use 40 degrees of
flaps, dual, I use 15. I weigh 200 dressed (the only way I feel comfortable
flying), but it doesn't make much difference dual or solo unless there is a
tailwind. Then you better have the airspeed nailed! It helps that there is
a 10 degree slope to the strip. Takoff downhill, land uphill.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
> > way out, slam dunk over the powerlines, shoot the gap through the hedgerow,
> > and no go around once the wheels touch. Maybe that's why I got into the
> > habit of always landing slower than I fly...
> > Richard Pike
> > MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >>
> >Isn't it amazing how necessity can be a mother.....I think I am just going to
i agree, these are the funnest kind of "airports". i mostly find mine on
gravel bars along the Sacramento River. a little too fast and the end
comes up ooooh so quick. :-) W/ these i find it best to fly it on
as this really allows you to do the last part as slow as possible.
Makes getting there all that much more fun!
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillU <WillU(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Still on the road |
Hola:
I'll be working in the Phoenix/Mesa, Arizona area for 3 days. Does anyone
know of a person giving dual instructions with a Kolb? I would also like the
meet with some Kolb owners.
Later
Will Uribe
WillU(at)aol.com
Building a FireStar II
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillU <WillU(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: muffler supports |
Richard
I uploaded the, muffler hanger system, picture you sent me to my webpage.
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index2.html
Will Uribe
WillU(at)aol.com
Building a FireStar II
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
<< Several people have asked what the brackets and rubber supports from the
truck muffler hanger system look like. I do not have a web page, and right
now the exhaust system is all apart, doing the winter annual/modification
thing. But if someone has a web page and they want to add the picture to it
for a while, I will reassemble it,( won't take but a few minutes, it
doesn't need to be airworthy just to get pictures) shoot a picture, and
send you a JPEG file to post. Let me know.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
<< I normally use about 400 feet to land and stop. Solo I use 40 degrees of
flaps, dual, I use 15. I weigh 200 dressed (the only way I feel comfortable
flying), but it doesn't make much difference dual or solo unless there is a
tailwind. Then you better have the airspeed nailed! It helps that there is
a 10 degree slope to the strip. Takoff downhill, land uphill.
>>
maybe you can land so short because of the flaps in your MKIII?! My Firestar
doesn't have flaps or brakes...yet. Please don't let Frank Marino (who shares
the same field with me and really is my buddy in spite of how we talk to each
other) know that you can land your big heavy airplane (he has the same thing)
in less space than I can!!! I must get a more reliable ASI instead of the Ball
that I have before taking the risk of going so slow approaching the ground to
land so short.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
<< i agree, these are the funnest kind of "airports". i mostly find mine on
gravel bars along the Sacramento River. a little too fast and the end
comes up ooooh so quick. :-) W/ these i find it best to fly it on
as this really allows you to do the last part as slow as possible.
Makes getting there all that much more fun! >>
;Bless your risk taking heart, Ben, you have more confidence than I do right
now but I think with the right practice I might me able to land in half the
space I do now, but I will probably have to buy a couple dozen landing gears
until I get self taught how to land slow!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Guys,
I used to take up a lot of space landing my Original FireStar until I saw
Kolb's factory pilot, Dick Rahill (I think that's his name, the guy they
call "Bluebeard") land. He literally stalls on touchdown making for a
very short rollout. Now you have to be careful about doing these types of
landings, but you can slow it down and do a 3-point instead of dropping
it in like he does. What I like to do is bring it in at 40 mph on final,
then flare to land on all three. Sounds pretty easy doesn't it? Actually
it takes many hours of practice as we all can testify. In windy
conditions carry 10 mph or more. It is important to try and practice
landing in short fields of 500' because someday it may be necessary. If
you have the skill, you could save your plane from damage and wrecking
your day. BTW, my Original FireStar does not have brakes, and for us guys
that fly off of skis this can be significant. If you get used to having
brakes, it may be a problem when you put the skis on.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>writes:
>
><< i agree, these are the funnest kind of "airports". i mostly find
>mine on gravel bars along the Sacramento River. a little too fast and
the
>end comes up ooooh so quick. :-) W/ these i find it best to fly it on
>as this really allows you to do the last part as slow as possible.
> Makes getting there all that much more fun! >>
>;Bless your risk taking heart, Ben, you have more confidence than I do
>right now but I think with the right practice I might me able to land in
>half the space I do now, but I will probably have to buy a couple dozen
>landing gears until I get self taught how to land slow!
>GeoR38
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
>
><< i agree, these are the funnest kind of "airports". i mostly find mine on
> gravel bars along the Sacramento River. a little too fast and the end
> comes up ooooh so quick. :-) W/ these i find it best to fly it on
> as this really allows you to do the last part as slow as possible.
> Makes getting there all that much more fun! >>
>;Bless your risk taking heart, Ben, you have more confidence than I do right
>now but I think with the right practice I might me able to land in half the
>space I do now, but I will probably have to buy a couple dozen landing gears
>until I get self taught how to land slow!
>GeoR38
Hi George and Kolb fliers,
The first 1.5 years of my plane I felt there was no way to land other
than a 3-point stall landing, this from years of just relishing the dream of
wanting to be a bushpilot. Since then I've also realized the virtues of a
wheel landing. IMO it is hard to make a 3 point landing in a FS without it
being kind of a thumper, at least compared to a wheel landing. In a 3
pointer,
the tail wheel actually hits first when you get it flared all the way to a
stall
at touchdown. The tail hitting first rocks the mains down in no uncertain
terms,
but you can be sure that you will not float or roll out much. :-)
I mentioned "fly it on" but that isn't quite clear maybe. If it is a spot
like
Richard's 3TNO International, where you gotta come in over obstacles,
obviously
that is at idle and maybe a *slip to get on down, but then adding a touch
of throttle
can really be helpful in prolonging flight till the exact preferred hook mark.
I know this is all pretty obvious, so thanks for endulging my sitting here
typing
w/ my brain out reliving flying in the sticks. :-)
*...slipping w/ flaps extended is taboo in some planes; i don't know about
Kolbs.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
>Kolbers.... Ralph, I knew your New Years day flight was worth telling.
>Here is my over-simplified version of optimum cruise . I feel optimum
>cruise is obtained when the elevator is neutral, no need for forward or
>back pressure on stick (hands off) and the plane is flying level. At this
>setting, the angle of attack of the wings is minimum, or even neutral.
>The download on the stabilizer matches the pitching moment of the wing.
>To achieve these ideal conditions requires that the CG be exactly in the
>middle of the allowable range. A forward or rearward CG would require a
>corresponding back or forward pressure on the stick (however slight) to
>achieve level flight, thereby creating elevator drag and a loss of
>airspeed. Both Ralph and I use the small windshield made of .090 lexan,
>that is extended 6 inches longer so no slipstream strikes the face. The
>additional advantage is the increased cruise airspeed. I have a FS, 447
>Rotex. Cruise in summer, 60mph at 4800rpm and 60mph in winter at 4000rpm.
>I highly recommend this larger version of the short windshield. Ray Lujon
>, Woodbury ,MN
Ray,
Your claim of 60mph in winter at 4000rpm has stuck in my craw all this time
and i finally gotta just ask you. I almost don't see that possible, and a
good part of what's confusing to me is how the heck the performance of an
engine could improve so much between summer and winter. You see, you
actually got me to re-think some of the air density stuff. I tempted my
brain to think that colder, denser air might somehow actually make a plane
show higher indicated airspeeds, but then of course realized this just ain't
the case. So, all the speed difference you mention *must* come from the
denser air going into the engine ...i.e. almost like turbo charging it
simply by way of running in denser air.
Believe me, i'm happy for you if your plane is that fast, and even more so if
your body can somehow survive flying in that icebox. I'm certainly not
trying to mess with your credibility, just looking for help understanding
such tremendous engine performance.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Cold Is It? |
Ben, from the way it appears to me, Ray's remark had nothing to do with
engine power. It doesn't take MORE power to turn the engine @ 4000 rpm,
it would seem to take more efficiency somewhere else, i.e., denser air
means better bite for the prop and lift surfaces, etc.
Ron
>>Kolbers.... Ralph, I knew your New Years day flight was worth telling.
>>Here is my over-simplified version of optimum cruise . I feel optimum
>>cruise is obtained when the elevator is neutral, no need for forward
or
>>back pressure on stick (hands off) and the plane is flying level. At
this
>>setting, the angle of attack of the wings is minimum, or even neutral.
>>The download on the stabilizer matches the pitching moment of the
wing.
>>To achieve these ideal conditions requires that the CG be exactly in
the
>>middle of the allowable range. A forward or rearward CG would require
a
>>corresponding back or forward pressure on the stick (however slight)
to
>>achieve level flight, thereby creating elevator drag and a loss of
>>airspeed. Both Ralph and I use the small windshield made of .090
lexan,
>>that is extended 6 inches longer so no slipstream strikes the face.
The
>>additional advantage is the increased cruise airspeed. I have a FS,
447
>>Rotex. Cruise in summer, 60mph at 4800rpm and 60mph in winter at
4000rpm.
>>I highly recommend this larger version of the short windshield. Ray
Lujon
>>, Woodbury ,MN
>
>Ray,
>Your claim of 60mph in winter at 4000rpm has stuck in my craw all this
time
>and i finally gotta just ask you. I almost don't see that possible,
and a
>good part of what's confusing to me is how the heck the performance of
an
>engine could improve so much between summer and winter. You see, you
>actually got me to re-think some of the air density stuff. I tempted
my
>brain to think that colder, denser air might somehow actually make a
plane
>show higher indicated airspeeds, but then of course realized this just
ain't
>the case. So, all the speed difference you mention *must* come from
the
>denser air going into the engine ...i.e. almost like turbo charging it
>simply by way of running in denser air.
>
>Believe me, i'm happy for you if your plane is that fast, and even more
so if
>your body can somehow survive flying in that icebox. I'm certainly not
>trying to mess with your credibility, just looking for help
understanding
>such tremendous engine performance.
>
>-Ben Ransom
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How Cold Is It? |
>actually got me to re-think some of the air density stuff. I tempted my
>brain to think that colder, denser air might somehow actually make a plane
>show higher indicated airspeeds, but then of course realized this just
ain't
>the case. So, all the speed difference you mention *must* come from the
I believe denser air will indeed make the ASI read higher at the same actual
airspeed. More ram effect into the pitot tube I think. It would be
interesting to check the airspeeds with a GPS.
In fact, I plan to do some airspeed tests in the next spam can that I fly.
All these years, I've just assumed that the ASIs were correct, and now I bet
they're almost as error prone as ours. Ignorance is bliss :-)
Rusty
RV-8 kit arrived yesterday
________________________________________________________________________________
dwegner(at)isd.net
52-53,55-59
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Ben and Ray,
My 377 Rotax will push my FireStar along at 60mph at 5500rpm in level
flight, now that it's 30 degrees outside. I have noticed that in winter
the "indicated" airspeed reads a few mph higher than at the same rpm
during the summer months (70 degrees F). ie. cruise rpm will remain the
same, but my "indicated" airspeed will drop slightly during the summer.
So, to achieve a 60mph "indicated" airspeed in the summer will take about
5700-5800rpm's on the engine, everything else remaining the same. I did,
however, pick up ~5mph with that windshield, that Ray refers to, in both
summer AND winter.
Q. Have I now moved myself into this category known as "the fat"
ultralight?
A. Not if I fly during the summer months only ..... hmmmmm.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>Both Ralph and I use the small windshield made of .090
>lexan, that is extended 6 inches longer so no slipstream strikes the
face.
>The additional advantage is the increased cruise airspeed. I have a FS,
>447 Rotax. Cruise in summer, 60mph at 4800rpm and 60mph in winter at
>4000rpm. I highly recommend this larger version of the short windshield.
> Ray Lujon
> Woodbury, MN
writes:
>Ray,
>Your claim of 60mph in winter at 4000rpm has stuck in my craw all this
time
>and i finally gotta just ask you. I almost don't see that possible, and
a
>good part of what's confusing to me is how the heck the performance of
an
>engine could improve so much between summer and winter. You see, you
>actually got me to re-think some of the air density stuff. I tempted my
>brain to think that colder, denser air might somehow actually make a
plane
>show higher indicated airspeeds, but then of course realized this just
ain't
>the case. So, all the speed difference you mention *must* come from the
>denser air going into the engine ...i.e. almost like turbo charging it
>simply by way of running in denser air.
>Believe me, i'm happy for you if your plane is that fast, and even more
so if
>your body can somehow survive flying in that icebox. I'm certainly not
>trying to mess with your credibility, just looking for help
understanding
>such tremendous engine performance.
>-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>
><< I normally use about 400 feet to land and stop. Solo I use 40 degrees of
> flaps, dual, I use 15. I weigh 200 dressed (the only way I feel comfortable
> flying), but it doesn't make much difference dual or solo unless there is a
> tailwind. Then you better have the airspeed nailed! It helps that there is
> a 10 degree slope to the strip. Takoff downhill, land uphill.
> >>
>maybe you can land so short because of the flaps in your MKIII?! My Firestar
>doesn't have flaps or brakes...yet. Please don't let Frank Marino (who shares
>the same field with me and really is my buddy in spite of how we talk to each
>other) know that you can land your big heavy airplane (he has the same thing)
>in less space than I can!!! I must get a more reliable ASI instead of the
Ball
>that I have before taking the risk of going so slow approaching the ground to
>land so short.
> GeoR38
Short Field Technique at 3TN0
There are BIG powerlines about 2500' out off the end of the airstrip. You
have to maintain 1800' MSL until you cross them, then get down to 1500' at
touchdown. I turn final about 1/2 mile from the powerlines, 1/2 flap, and
airspeed at 60, altitude about 2100'. This gives me time to get everything
stabilized, feel for downdrafts, and set up sink rate to cross the tower
with about 50' minimum clearance.
Once I cross the lines, back to idle, and hold 60 MPH and aim for a point
about 100' short of the runway. This guarantees that I will not be high and
hot. If the engine quits, and I have to land short, all I will do is tear
up a lot of Mr. Martin's tobbacco patch. Once I get down about 20' off the
ground at a point about 100' from the threshold, I give it a good goose of
power to arrest the sink rate, and apply a little back pressure at the same
time. This puts you across the threshold at about 50 MPH in ground effect,
and since stall is 28 indicated solo, 32 dual, this is comfortable, yet
gets you down and stopped pretty quick.
Without flaps? Float an extra 150'-200' in ground effect before you touch
down. The brakes are Azusa drums, and are somewhat better than nothing.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How Cold Is It? |
>
>I believe denser air will indeed make the ASI read higher at the same actual
>airspeed. More ram effect into the pitot tube I think. It would be
>interesting to check the airspeeds with a GPS.
>
>In fact, I plan to do some airspeed tests in the next spam can that I fly.
>All these years, I've just assumed that the ASIs were correct, and now I bet
>they're almost as error prone as ours. Ignorance is bliss :-)
>
>Rusty
>RV-8 kit arrived yesterday
>
> If you are old enough to have an E6-B computer, (I'm so old I have 2 of
them!) look on the front side where it says: "FOR AIR SPEED COMPUTATIONS",
and it tells you how to determine true air speed as a function of altitude
and temperature.
Unless memory fails me, (and it usually does when I stick my neck
out)
changes in density altitude do not cause variations in the INDICATED
airspeed, because the variations affect all aspects of flight
simultaneously. True airspeed varies with density, temperature, etc, but
indicated airspeed does not. In the winter the airplane will have a lower
true stall speed, but the indicated airspeed at which the stall occurs will
be normal.
In other words, the airplane will actually fly slower in the cold, dense
air, but the only way you can tell would be by GPS. If you usually stall at
30, that is what the gauge would say when the stall occured.
Red line will be at a lower true air speed, or slower than summer, because
the denser air enables airloads to accumulate sooner. The airspeed
indicator will indicate red line at the normal point, but since the extra
density is pushing the indicator farther/sooner than in the summer, the
pointer gets to the red line just when it should, and the airplane is
happy. Once again, the only way you could tell would be by GPS, or timing
your shadow across the snow on a calm day.
True airspeed changes with changes in density. Indicated airspeed changes
are negigible-niglegible-neglegibel-very small.
On the other hand, engine RPM/horsepower improvements may be great,
because the engines ability to make power on a cold day may increase faster
than the propeller's load increase at higher RPM's.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
<< I mentioned "fly it on" but that isn't quite clear maybe. If it is a spot
like
Richard's 3TNO International, where you gotta come in over obstacles,
obviously
that is at idle and maybe a *slip to get on down, but then adding a touch
of throttle >>
This is another thing I never rely on..."but then adding a touch of throttle"
which on a 2 cycle may be delayed a bit due to "clogging". I have the habit
of getting over the power lines at 50 mph and probably way too high and never
touching the throttle again because I have this nagging concern that the 2
cycle engine is unreliable at low RPM when my buns are close to the power
lines. Believe me, there is no real justification for this concern as my
engine (447 now and Cuyunna before). I know I am too conservative, but I fly
the darn thing like I learned to fly gliders and now I'm stuck with long
landings....don't hesitate to try to change me though, I know someday I'll
wish I could land at 4 or 500 Ft. The last time I HAD to land within 700'
instead of my usual 750', the concern level was so high that I ended up
landing in 40 Ft and bending both gears and making a fool of myself....there
it is sitting on the soft wet ground with one wingtip resting on the ground
and the engine still running! I looked around sheepishly at the silent ,
seemingly embarrassed crowd at the Bavarian Funfest in 1996 and spoke a "AWWW
Shoot". Looking back though, it was a good experience . GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
<< I mentioned "fly it on" but that isn't quite clear maybe. If it is a spot
like
Richard's 3TNO International, where you gotta come in over obstacles,
obviously
that is at idle and maybe a *slip to get on down, but then adding a touch
of throttle >>
This is another thing I never rely on..."but then adding a touch of throttle"
which on a 2 cycle may be delayed a bit due to "clogging". I have the habit
of getting over the power lines at 50 mph and probably way too high and never
touching the throttle again because I have this nagging concern that the 2
cycle engine is unreliable at low RPM when my buns are close to the power
lines. Believe me, there is no real justification for this concern as my
engine (447 now and Cuyunna before) has never quit on me during landings since
I started flying ultralites in 1983. I know I am too conservative, but I fly
the darn thing like I learned to fly gliders and now I'm stuck with long
landings....don't hesitate to try to change me though, I know someday I'll
wish I could land at 4 or 500 Ft. The last time I HAD to land within 700'
instead of my usual 750', the concern level was so high that I ended up
landing in 40 Ft and bending both gears and making a fool of myself....there
it is sitting on the soft wet ground with one wingtip resting on the ground
and the engine still running! I looked around sheepishly at the silent ,
seemingly embarrassed crowd at the Bavarian Funfest in 1996 and spoke a "AWWW
Shoot". Looking back though, it was a good experience . GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
<< This puts you across the threshold at about 50 MPH in ground effect,
and since stall is 28 indicated solo, 32 dual, this is comfortable, yet
gets you down and stopped pretty quick.
Without flaps? Float an extra 150'-200' in ground effect before you touch
down. The brakes are Azusa drums, and are somewhat better than nothing.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >>
Thanks Richard, Now I have responses of stall anywhere from 28 to 40 and some
say to approach at 40. My stall is probably indicated at 30 or so but I am
sinking to beat the band down from about 32 on down, so I have been trying to
approach at 50 to 55 till I clear the power lines which are right across the
end of the field...Power on the far side of the street and telephone short
ones on the actual field itself. Yes I can see you have an advantage with the
power lines so far away from your field and I can appreciate everything you
said ...Thanks GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Use of Flaperons on FireFly |
All right, need some feed back. Since I can't fly right now at least
I can dream about it.
On the FireFly when taking off, does it help or make much difference
using a notch of flaps.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Use of Flaperons on FireFly |
Jerry and all,
> On the FireFly when taking off, does it help or make much difference
> using a notch of flaps.
I have a gut (no science) feeling about flaperons or flaps with pusher type
airplanes that any flaps cause more drag than lift.
OK you engineers... "blow me out of the water".
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (37.3 hrs)
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb...How cold is it? |
| From: | rayul(at)juno.com (Raymond L Lujon) |
Ben Ransom........ I apppreciate your comments. I admit my RPM versus
MPH observations in cold weather may have been exaggerated. They were
based upon a very limited number of cold weather flights and not done
under really controlled conditions. I am a low time pilot , still
learning the basics. However, having said that, I am sure that you will
agree that everything else being equal , the plane with the lowest wing
loading will have the highest performance in cruise . I like to think
that I fly very lean, ( low body weight and 30 lbs of fuel or less). I
fly without all the bells and whistles (read: excess weight) that I see
advertised. There always seems to be a push towards bigger, better and
more efficient engines and props, etc., which is all and good. On the
other hand , when I go to Oshkosh I see ultralights with many extras
installed (read: weight equals deteriorated performance) after the plane
is built. These are added in many cases without careful thought as to
what is being done to an otherwise well designed ultralight. The planes
may still fly well, but it requires a higher throttle setting to maintain
a given cruise speed than it did before. Weight and drag are like death
and taxes. Speaking of drag, I think a significant reason I can maintain
a 60 mph cruise at what I believe a relatively low throttle setting is my
streamlined struts. I don't have to tell you that tests show that fairing
a circular wing strut or any wire that is used to provide structural
support into an aerodynamic shape can reduce the drag of the cylinder by
as much as 700 percent. Such improvement in drag reduction pays big
dividends . I also like to believe that my long windshield plays a part
also. As to why cold air improves performance, I will leave this to
others. All I can say it has to be experienced to be believed. Ray
Lujon, Woodbury, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Sharp" <msharp(at)tgn.net> |
| Subject: | Rigging Tail - Mark III |
Folks,
I've completed the Tail feathers this week. I'm starting on
attaching the control surfaces. I made a jig similar to the one in the
manual but I made it out of 1" Al angle, I can use spring clamps to
hold the hinge in place. I also made one for the Flap to Aileron to
rear spar attachments.
Question: Does anyone have any "tricks" or remember any pitfalls when
rigging the tail?
I also had a "ding in the fuselage tube about 6' from the end, about 2"
x 7/8" x < 1/16" (looks like a thumb print.) I called the Tech line and
they told me to orient the ding to the bottom and toward the tail and
there should be no problem.
Could someone help reassure me that there will be no problem. :-)
On another subject. My wife and I were walking through Lowes the other
day. She wants to paint the inside of our home. We came up to the
section where the power painter's etc.. are. We saw a HVLP rig, she ask
what it was used for. I explained, and she thought it would be great
instead of rollers etc.. Then I casually mentioned that we could also
use it to paint the Mark III. She said, "Lets go for it!" So it looks
like I may be using the HVLP system ( It's Great to have such a
partner!). I think I deleted all the discussion about the system, If
someone could repost I'd appreciate it.
TTFN
Peace,
Mike Sharp
Kolb Mark III
Cut First Tubing, 11-28-97
Folks,
I've completed
the Tail
feathers this week. I'm starting on attaching the control
surfaces.
I made a jig similar to the one in the manual but I made it out of
1" Al
angle, I can use spring clamps to hold the hinge in place. I
also
made one for the Flap to Aileron to rear spar attachments.
Question: Does anyone have any
"tricks" or
remember any pitfalls when rigging the tail?
I also had a "ding in the fuselage tube about
6' from the
end, about 2" x 7/8" x < 1/16" (looks like a thumb
print.) I
called the Tech line and they told me to orient the ding to the bottom
and
toward the tail and there should be no problem.
Could someone help reassure me that there will be no
problem.
:-)
On another subject. My wife and I were walking
through Lowes the other day. She wants to
paint the
inside of our home. We came up to the section where the power
painter's
etc.. are. We saw a HVLP rig, she ask what it was used for.
I
explained, and she thought it would be great instead of rollers
etc.. Then
I casually mentioned that we could also use it to paint the Mark
III. She
said, "Lets go for it!" So it looks like I may be using the
HVLP
system ( It's Great to have such a partner!). I think I deleted
all the
discussion about the system, If someone could repost I'd appreciate
it.
TTFN
Peace,
Mike Sharp
Kolb Mark III
Cut First Tubing,
11-28-97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | BRS 900 chute for sale |
Hi all,
If anyone is thinking of buying a BRS, I'll make you a deal you can't refuse
on mine. It's a 900 lb canister model that I received about August 97.
Re-pack time is in 2003. I installed it on the SS for the test flights, and
plan to remove it after just a few more hours of testing. I'll sell it for
$1500 plus UPS shipping cost. I think the best price on this model is about
$2300 now. Let me know if you know anyone that's interested.
Thanks
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K (17.8 hrs)
RV-8 under construction
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb...How cold is it? |
| From: | rayul(at)juno.com (Raymond L Lujon) |
70% is the correct figure, thank you....Ray Lujon, Woodbury, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Use of Flaperons on FireFly |
>Jerry and all,
>
>> On the FireFly when taking off, does it help or make much difference
>> using a notch of flaps.
>
>I have a gut (no science) feeling about flaperons or flaps with pusher type
>airplanes that any flaps cause more drag than lift.
>
>OK you engineers... "blow me out of the water".
>
Yep, I leave the flaperons all the way up during takeoff. (Actually,
I leave them all the way up most of the time; the only time I really use
them is when I want to get down in a hurry; full flaperons and a slip will
put my FireFly into helicopter mode.) :-)
I have taken off with full flaperons a couple of times. Most notably
when I was doing touch and goes where I was using the flaps all the way
to the ground, and didn't really have time to retract them before adding
power for takeoff. They make the takeoff performance rather sluggish. Once
I got full power in, I'd reach over and retract the flaperons, and the
plane would jump up into the sky. That was full flaps though; I don't know
that I've ever taken off with just 1 notch of flaps, so your mileage may
vary...
Adding flaperons during flight does produce a noticeable pitch down of
the nose, which is another reason for me not to use them during takeoff;
I want the nose up, not down...
I believe Cliff is right about the drag. Flaperons slightly reduce
my stall speed, but the rate of descent is noticibly greater, so I
suspect they are generating a lot of drag without a proportionate amount
of lift. (Which fits in with my experience of sluggish takeoffs with
flaperons on.)
-Jon-
.--- stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "W.B.Whitehead,Jr." <behead(at)linknet.net> |
DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE USING AUTO PAINT WITH THE FLEX
ADDITIVE ON STITS FABRIC?
BENNY WHITEHEAD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Use of Flaperons on FireFly |
> Yep, I leave the flaperons all the way up during takeoff. (Actually,
>I leave them all the way up most of the time; the only time I really use
>them is when I want to get down in a hurry; full flaperons and a slip will
>put my FireFly into helicopter mode.) :-)
I've planned to test this in the SS, but haven't quite got around to it. I
doubt the flaps will give better climb performance, but it seems like you
might be able to add a small amount of flaps and get the same performance at
a higher climb speed. That thought isn't based on any theory, just a wacky
guess.
I've never even made a landing with flaps in the SS. I put them on once in
the air and measured the stall speed. There was a noticeable improvement in
the stall speed, but the descent was even more rock-like than usual. I'm
curious, is there any stall warning on any of the other models during power
off stalls? There isn't any warning at all in the SS.
As far as the flaperons go, I would have left them off if there was any good
way of doing it during construction. I just feel like they're unnecessary
and a bit too hard to reach for me. I'll make a few landings with them on
just to say that I've tested all the flight modes (for my 40 hours
restriction release).
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
I used Hipec to paint my aircraft. This is an automotive paint with a
flex agent added.The sun barrier is of an unknown origin but is the Hipec
brand.The main problem I had with the system is believing their literature.
They told me the brush marks in the sun barrier would disappear and that if
you painted the second coat within 24 hrs you did not have to sand between
coats.
If I were to do it again I would omit the sun barrier or spray it if I
decided it was important. I would also sand between coats so the paint does
not peel off. Other than that I liked the system. I painted 6 years ago and
there is no sign of cracking or ringworm.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Hinkelmann <whink(at)mindspring.com> |
Any chance of flying it in under the powerlines? Sounds sort of scarry
but I have had an experience where I wish I would have taken the LOW road,
opposed to the HIGH road over and stall at the top.
_____________________
William Hinkelmann
whink(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | landing techniques |
61,63,65-66,69,72-74
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Guys,
Without criticizing anybody's landing technique, I usually do carry some
power, about 3500-4000rpm, until I have the runway made. At this power
setting the likelihood of the engine quitting I think is lessened. I can
then adjust my glide accordingly and if I see that I'm a little low, then
I can slowly add some power. Though my experience and others, I've seen
the engine want to quit either at idle or when it has been in an idle for
awhile and then try to "goose it" because you need it now! If I am too
high, I can either make a go around, or put the plane into a slip even
with some power. In the winter, an engine can be "thermal shocked" if you
go from cruise power then all at once to an idle. Not good. This "thermal
shocking" applies more to the fan-cooled and air-cooled types. In the
summer, I occasionally practice shutting the engine off without being
concerned about "thermal shocking" (this keeps me skilled for the actual
thing). Of course, with the engine running and once I'm ready to
touchdown at about 20-50 feet up, I will then go to idle, and the engine
will keep its heat once you are on the ground because you will need more
power to taxi. In heavy winds, I will fly it down with power.
I test flew my new skis this afternoon. I made 3 takeoffs and landings in
8" snow, inspecting them after each landing. I taxied fast and purposely
came in hot, 50mph, to see how the skis drag through the snow. The snow
drag is high and I will have to wax them. They will then be perfect. It
was 16 degrees outside. They perform well in the air just like the old
wood ones I had for 10 years.These are made of a hard rubber-type
material and are much stronger. My 11 year old son helped me set up and
take down the plane. That was nice of him.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>
><< I mentioned "fly it on" but that isn't quite clear maybe. If it is a
spot
>like Richard's 3TNO International, where you gotta come in over
obstacles,
>obviously that is at idle and maybe a *slip to get on down, but then
adding a
>touch of throttle >>
>This is another thing I never rely on..."but then adding a touch of
throttle"
> which on a 2 cycle may be delayed a bit due to "clogging". I have the
habit
>of getting over the power lines at 50 mph and probably way too high and
never
>touching the throttle again because I have this nagging concern that
>the 2 cycle engine is unreliable at low RPM when my buns are close to
the
>power lines. Believe me, there is no real justification for this concern
as
>my engine (447 now and Cuyunna before) has never quit on me during
>landings since I started flying ultralites in 1983. I know I am too
conservative, >but I fly the darn thing like I learned to fly gliders and
now I'm stuck with
>long landings....don't hesitate to try to change me though, I know
someday
>I'll wish I could land at 4 or 500 Ft. The last time I HAD to land
within
>700' instead of my usual 750', the concern level was so high that I
ended
>up landing in 40 Ft and bending both gears and making a fool of
>myself....there it is sitting on the soft wet ground with one wingtip
resting on >the ground and the engine still running! I looked around
sheepishly at the
>silent, seemingly embarrassed crowd at the Bavarian Funfest in 1996 and
spoke a "AWWW Shoot". Looking back though, it was a good experience .
> GeoR38
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henry C. Wortman" <hwortman(at)mail.datasys.net> |
| Subject: | Touch & Go's / Hour |
When practicing landings, approximately how many do you get per/hr.
while flying a normal U/L pattern?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Hi,
I need some input, or reassurance which ever applies. My partner
decarboned my engine for me. It was really gunky and he damaged one of
the rings in the process. The old rings did not appear to have "seated",
they were not contacting the cylinder walls much at all and to us did not
appear to ever have. I got the unit after it was "run in" according to
rotax recommendations. Do I really need to go through all that again? I
realize that I have a tendency toward instant gratification, ( I do fight
it) but I really liked the statement the other day-" build fast- fly
soon".
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
The ultralight chat group (called Ultrafly) on mIRC will be talking about
Kim Steiner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Larry,
There is an old saying: "Don't Rush Aviation". I would do the break-in.
When I put in new rings, I went through the process. Better safe than
sorry.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
writes:
>Hi,
> I need some input, or reassurance which ever applies. My partner
>decarboned my engine for me. It was really gunky and he damaged one
>of the rings in the process. The old rings did not appear to have
>"seated", they were not contacting the cylinder walls much at all and to
us did
>not appear to ever have. I got the unit after it was "run in" according
to
>rotax recommendations. Do I really need to go through all that again?
>I realize that I have a tendency toward instant gratification, ( I do
>fight it) but I really liked the statement the other day-" build fast-
fly
>soon".
>Larry
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
KOLB GROUP ( HELP )
SATURDAY I FLEW MY M /3 WITH NO PROBLEMS IT FLEW GREAT AND ALL WENT
WELL
TODAY I WENT BACK TO THE AIRPORT WHERE IT WAS IN THE HANGER ROLLER HER
OUT DID MY PRE-FLIGHT ALL OK STARTED THE 582 NOTICED THAT THE VOLT
METER WAS AT ABOUT 7 / 8 VOLTS NOW WITH THIS I THOUGHT IT WOULD GO UP TO
12 V IN A FEW MIN. THEN I SWITCHED TO MAG 1 AT 3000 RPM
VERY LITTLE DROP , THEN BACK TO BOTH THEN SWITCHED TO MAG 2 THE TACK
WENT TO 4000 RPM'S CLEARLY TO HIGH OF A DIFF. NOW I KNOW THAT THIS IS
WHERE I WILL CATCH HECK NOW THE VOLTAGE IS UP TO ABOUT 9 /10 VOLTS
DID THE MAG CHECK AGAIN THE DIFF. THIS TIME WAS ONLY ABOUT 500 RPM'S
DIFF. THEN TURNED THE STROBES ON IT LOOKED LIKE WITH THE LOAD IT WAS OK
1 / 2 HUNDRED DIFF. I KNOW THAT THE TACK IS IN KNOW WAY TIED IN WITH THE
POWER BUT AS THE VOLTAGE CAME UP THE PROBLEM WENT AWAY
I TESTED THE BATT. WITH A DVM IT HAD 7 VOLTS AFTER FLYING TODAY I THINK
THE BATT IS GONE DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA'S WHY THE TACK IS DOING THIS ?
I don't THINK IT IS THE TACK , I HAVE A 3PHASE REG. RECT.
I DID SOME STALLS WITH FLAPS AND WITH OUT TODAY VERY WINDY GUST TO 21
LANDING WAS TRICKY BUT THE M/3 DID GOOD , AFTER I LANDED WENT TO THE
RAMP AND WAS PLAYING WITH THE MAGS AGAIN STILL SOME DIFF. BUT NOT TO BAD
DID THIS FOR A SHORT TIME THEN SHUT IT DOWN GOT OUT STARTED CLEANING
HER UP AND SEEN A SMALL DING IN MY PROP , I THOUGH IT WAS A SMALL ROCK
THEN ON THE REAR OF THE CAGE THEIR WAS A TEAR IN THE STITTS
ABOUT 3/4 in. LONG STILL THOUGH IT WAS A SMALL ROCK THEN LOOKED AT THE
FLAP HORN THE SAFETY PIN WAS GONE JUST THE CLEVIS PIN WAS IN
THE HOLE WAS DONE BY THE SAFETY PIN IT WAS THEIR ON THE PRE-FLIGHT
BUT BROKE CAUSING THE PROP STRIKE THEN GOING THROUGH THE STITTS
CHECK YOUR SAFETY PINS I TOOK ALL OF MINE OFF AND TRASHED THEM AN PUT
BRAND NEW ONES ON
RICK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rigging Tail - Mark III |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
Mike
I also had a ding on my tube I don't think that it would be a problem .
If you don't have the other two tubes use the one that you have ,put it
in the cage their should be no stress or strain on it at that point ,on
the riging make sure that the rudder bracket is where it is to go like
the prints say , if you are off what will happen is when you run your
rudder cables through the tube it will be rubbing on the elevator bracket
and you don't want that, also at this point line up the rudder stops on
the vertical fin with rudder bracket on the rudder after that is on
trim the rudder stops so that the rudder will not hit the elevator in the
entire up travel as well as the down. hope that helps.
RICK
>
>
>Folks,
>
> I've completed the Tail feathers this week. I'm starting on
>attaching the control surfaces. I made a jig similar to the one in
>the
>manual but I made it out of 1" Al angle, I can use spring clamps to
>hold the hinge in place. I also made one for the Flap to Aileron to
>rear spar attachments.
>
>Question: Does anyone have any "tricks" or remember any pitfalls when
>=
>rigging the tail?
>
>I also had a "ding in the fuselage tube about 6' from the end, about
>2"
>x 7/8" x < 1/16" (looks like a thumb print.) I called the Tech line
>and
>they told me to orient the ding to the bottom and toward the tail and
>=
>there should be no problem.
>
>Could someone help reassure me that there will be no problem. :-)
>
>On another subject. My wife and I were walking through Lowes the
>other
>day. She wants to paint the inside of our home. We came up to the
>section where the power painter's etc.. are. We saw a HVLP rig, she
>ask
>what it was used for. I explained, and she thought it would be great
>=
>instead of rollers etc.. Then I casually mentioned that we could also
>=
>use it to paint the Mark III. She said, "Lets go for it!" So it looks
>=
>like I may be using the HVLP system ( It's Great to have such a
>partner!). I think I deleted all the discussion about the system, If
>=
>someone could repost I'd appreciate it.
>
>TTFN
>
>Peace,
>Mike Sharp
>Kolb Mark III
>Cut First Tubing, 11-28-97
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Folks,
>
> I've completed
>=
>the Tail
>feathers this week. I'm starting on attaching the control
>surfaces.
>I made a jig similar to the one in the manual but I made it out of
>1" Al
>angle, I can use spring clamps to hold the hinge in place.
>I
>also
>made one for the Flap to Aileron to rear spar color=3D#000000>attachments.
>
>Question: Does anyone have any
>"tricks" or
>remember any pitfalls when rigging the tail?
>
>I also had a "ding in the fuselage tube about
>=
>6' from the
>end, about 2" x 7/8" x < 1/16" (looks like a thumb
>print.) I
>called the Tech line and they told me to orient the ding to the bottom
>=
>and
>toward the tail and there should be no problem.
>
>Could someone help reassure me that there will be
>no
>problem.
>:-)
>
>On another subject. My wife and I were
>walking
>color=3D#000000>through Lowes the other day. She wants to
>=
>paint the
>inside of our home. We came up to the section where the power
>painter's
>etc.. are. We saw a HVLP rig, she ask what it was used
>for.
>I
>explained, and she thought it would be great instead of rollers
>etc.. Then
>I casually mentioned that we could also use it to paint the Mark
>III. She
>said, "Lets go for it!" So it looks like I may be using the
>=
>HVLP
>system ( It's Great to have such a partner!). I think I deleted
>=
>all the
>discussion about the system, If someone could repost I'd appreciate
>it.
>
>TTFN
>
>Peace,
>Mike Sharp
>Kolb Mark III
Cut First
>Tubing,
>11-28-97
>
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
>Hi,
> I need some input, or reassurance which ever applies. My partner
>decarboned my engine for me. It was really gunky and he damaged one of
>the rings in the process. The old rings did not appear to have "seated",
>they were not contacting the cylinder walls much at all and to us did not
>appear to ever have. I got the unit after it was "run in" according to
What indicates the rings weren't contacting the cyl walls? I doubt the
engine would run much at all unless they were contacting.
>rotax recommendations. Do I really need to go through all that again? I
>realize that I have a tendency toward instant gratification, ( I do fight
>it) but I really liked the statement the other day-" build fast- fly
>soon".
I don't know why the heck anybody would consider taking off with a
known damaged piston ring. The engine will likely sieze, be very
expensive to fix, and of course you need to be ready for the sudden
engine-out experience too. On the other hand a new set of rings is
a few bucks and a half day to replace.
At the risk of sounding like an asshole, i think "build fast --fly soon"
will get you just this sort of thing: a damaged ring, no real understanding
whether rings seat, a probable engine failure in flight, and who knows
what after that. Build slow - fly when everything is ready!!! Well i
guess that's my input, probably distasteful, but honest.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb...How cold is it? |
>Ben Ransom........ I apppreciate your comments. I admit my RPM versus
>MPH observations in cold weather may have been exaggerated.
Ray and others,
I figured there might be some "rounding" going on there :-), but really, the
concept that interested me so much is all the thinking you got me doing
about air density, engine power, etc, ...all this because you note that
there is a pretty big diff between summer and winter performance. I've also
been a little inspired by the recent Dennis Pagen performance articles in
the UF rag. As a result, I grabbed a real aerodynamics book and have been
reading up. :-)
As for those that replied about the flying speed: Air density affects
airspeed indicators the same as the wings. Air density changes make no
difference in IAS vs TAS, and even more importantly IAS and TAS will
always show you the same speeds for stall, cruise, never exceed, etc.
(Just think how many funny little color bands there would be on an IAS
if airspeed changed with density altitude.) It is only ground speed that
changes with air density, and it changes a lot.
This may be very minor, but I did learn that a change in temperature
causes a change in air (or any gas) viscosity, and interestingly, lower
temperature means lower viscosity (opposite of liquids.) This only really
comes into play for flying surfaces that have mostly laminar flow, because
the viscosity affects surface friction, aka parasitic drag. Even this
shouldn't account for too much difference in IAS, as here again, IAS
sees the same air as the wing. (I wonder how much difference, if any, it
accounts for in ground speed in slow flying Kolbs.)
As for engine performance, the Rotax 447 charts show almost 9HP difference
between 4000 and 4800 rpm (~19-28HP), probably at standard conditions. I
guess i still feel compelled to figure out how much more fuel-air is in
the cylinders in winter vs summer in MN.
-Ben "learning almost enf to be dangerous" Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
RICK M LIBERSAT wrote:
>
> KOLB GROUP ( HELP )
>
> SATURDAY I FLEW MY M /3 WITH NO PROBLEMS IT FLEW GREAT AND ALL WENT
> WELL
>
> TODAY I WENT BACK TO THE AIRPORT WHERE IT WAS IN THE HANGER ROLLER HER
> OUT DID MY PRE-FLIGHT ALL OK STARTED THE 582 NOTICED THAT THE VOLT
> METER WAS AT ABOUT 7 / 8 VOLTS NOW WITH THIS I THOUGHT IT WOULD GO UP TO
> 12 V IN A FEW MIN. THEN I SWITCHED TO MAG 1 AT 3000 RPM
> VERY LITTLE DROP , THEN BACK TO BOTH THEN SWITCHED TO MAG 2 THE TACK
> WENT TO 4000 RPM'S CLEARLY TO HIGH OF A DIFF.
Rick,
Is this correct? Did the rpm's really go up when you swithched to Mag
2? Or did the tach go up without the engine speeding up?
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henry C. Wortman" <hwortman(at)mail.datasys.net> |
Rick: Put a drop of silicone sealant on your safety pins. That should
eliminate any of them slopping out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Wire safety rings are tough to remove, even when you want to remove
them. Impossible to 'slop out'.
-----Original Message-----
From: Henry C. Wortman <hwortman(at)mail.datasys.net>
Date: Monday January 19 1998 7:16 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Safety Pins
>Rick: Put a drop of silicone sealant on your safety pins. That should
>eliminate any of them slopping out.
>
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
> Any chance of flying it in under the powerlines? Sounds sort of scarry
>but I have had an experience where I wish I would have taken the LOW road,
>opposed to the HIGH road over and stall at the top.
>_____________________
>William Hinkelmann
>whink(at)mindspring.com
>-
Coming over the top, I am in a constant descent, about 4000 RPM,at 60 MPH,
about 500' per minute sink. A major down draft might bite me, but if the
air is that unstable or turbulent, I just go over to the municipal airport
and land, and get someone to come get me; bring the airplane home later. If
it gets to the point that I start thinking about flying UNDER those bad
boys, it's time to find a new hobby.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>Hi,
>
> The old rings did not appear to have "seated",
>they were not contacting the cylinder walls much at all and to us did not
>appear to ever have.
>Larry
>-
> I strongly suggest you get someone who knows what a normal 2-stroke
cylinder wall should look like to look at your cylinders. They may need
nothing, they may need a LIGHT honing, they may need something else.
Something might not be perfectly round, find out now.
If ANYTHING is wrong with the rings, or the pistons, or the cylinders,
spend the money, and then break it in just like the book calls for. Take
the time, spend the money, be patient. It saves your
wife/parents/girlfriends/buddies from the inevitable media frenzy that
results if your engine seizes while you are flying just above the sewage
plant.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
Rick and others interested in mIRC:
mIRC is an internet relay chat program that allows you to chat (type) to
other individuals that are interested in a particular subject such as
ultralights.
The program can be downloaded free from the following site:
http://www.download.com/PC/Result/Download/0,21,202-35151,00.html
When you have the program installed and running you must go to this IRC
server:
washington.dc.us.irc.q.net
When you have connected to the server you must enter the name of the channel
that you want to join.
We will be chatting about EGT and CHT plus other ultralight subjects
Kim Steiner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
Hello,
I am a new member (about 3 minutes) to the group.
I will probably ask a lot of dumb question; this may be one.
Has anyone started a Firefly and changed their mind and offered the kit
for sale?
Thanks in advance for any response.
Woody Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stolen RANS S12: $500 Reward |
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
A RANS S12 Ultralight aircraft was stolen from Turlock (CA)
airpark 01/16/98 - 01/17/98. There is a $500 reward for its
return.
For additional information about the theft and the plane itself,
please call John or Carol at 209-668-4905, page Bob at
209-567-2480, or goto http://www.terraformers.com/rans/index.htm
Thanks for whatever help you can offer.
Sincerely,
Knox Richardson
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stolen RANS S12: $500 Reward |
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
A RANS S12 Ultralight aircraft was stolen from Turlock (CA)
airpark 01/16/98 - 01/17/98. There is a $500 reward for its
return.
For additional information about the theft and the plane itself,
please call John or Carol at 209-668-4905, page Bob at
209-567-2480, or goto http://www.terraformers.com/rans/index.htm
Thanks for whatever help you can offer.
Sincerely,
Knox Richardson
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chm12345 <Chm12345(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | 503DC static RPM test problems |
Dear Kolb Friends,
In preparation to the first flight of my Firestar, I tried to do the engine
break-in yesterday. I have a new 503DC with a 62" IVO 3-blade ground
adjustable prop. The engine runs very well until I try to go to full power. At
about 5000 RPM increasing throttle will do very little until you get the lever
almost to full open. As you open the throttle, the EGT begins to slowly fall
to about 800 degrees and eventually the RPM slowly goes to 6500 RPM (after
some delay). It stays at 6500 RPM for about 30 seconds at which time it drops
to 6000-5800 RPM for 30 more seconds and then it goes up to 6500 RPM again.
The cycle then repeats again. The EGT remains low at 800 degrees and CHT is
also pretty low. If I reduce the pitch of the prop the engine will overspeed.
Jetting has been checked to be as recommended and conditions are standard 70
degrees at sea level.
Now, I though that the problem would be the main jetting being too rich but
after talking to some people that owned 3 blade IVO props, they reported
having similar problems and jetting would help but not eliminate the
fluctuating RPM problem. They also mentioned that when they changed to a wood
(or Warp) prop the problem went away. I've also been told that the 503DC
standard jetting should work pretty good in standard conditions.
Has anyone experienced this before?. Ideas?.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: BRS 900 chute for sale |
Don't the wings have a tendency to fall off those SlingShots at about
23.5 hours.
Oh well......(just joking that's not true but now I got him thinking
about it. Join in gang we'll have some fun with Russ.
Jerry
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: BRS 900 chute for sale
Date: 1/18/98 1:15 PM
Hi all,
If anyone is thinking of buying a BRS, I'll make you a deal you can't refuse
on mine. It's a 900 lb canister model that I received about August 97.
Re-pack time is in 2003. I installed it on the SS for the test flights, and
plan to remove it after just a few more hours of testing. I'll sell it for
$1500 plus UPS shipping cost. I think the best price on this model is about
$2300 now. Let me know if you know anyone that's interested.
Thanks
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K (17.8 hrs)
RV-8 under construction
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
Been there done that in a Cherokee. Let's just say I don't want to
ever do that again.
Wasn't planned that way but it worked. Was doing some short field
takeoff practice with an instructor. I blew it, I did exactly what he
said and we started stalling and settled back to the runway. Didn't
have enough runway left to stop. Options were either off the end
through the ditch, ground loop it and bust the airplane, through the
wires or under them. We chose the later. Secret, not to hook the
tail on the wires.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: 3TN0
Date: 1/18/98 8:04 PM
Any chance of flying it in under the powerlines? Sounds sort of scarry
but I have had an experience where I wish I would have taken the LOW road,
opposed to the HIGH road over and stall at the top.
_____________________
William Hinkelmann
whink(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: Use of Flaperons on FireFly |
The reason of my question in on a conventional airplane, using a single first
notch (NOT ALL - That's BAD) helps improve the initial takeoff and climb.
My gut feel is two notches would be two much drag and off set the desired
benefit, three forget about it. Since the high thrust line does produce some
different affects, I wasn't sure what it would do. I know your all saying well
why don't I go out and try it. Can't my partner has the airplane and I am stuck
in Australia with the roo's. All I can do is day dream and ask silly questions.
Jerry Bidle
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Use of Flaperons on FireFly
Date: 1/18/98 4:43 PM
>Jerry and all,
>
>> On the FireFly when taking off, does it help or make much difference
>> using a notch of flaps.
>
>I have a gut (no science) feeling about flaperons or flaps with pusher type
>airplanes that any flaps cause more drag than lift.
>
>OK you engineers... "blow me out of the water".
>
Yep, I leave the flaperons all the way up during takeoff. (Actually,
I leave them all the way up most of the time; the only time I really use
them is when I want to get down in a hurry; full flaperons and a slip will
put my FireFly into helicopter mode.) :-)
I have taken off with full flaperons a couple of times. Most notably
when I was doing touch and goes where I was using the flaps all the way
to the ground, and didn't really have time to retract them before adding
power for takeoff. They make the takeoff performance rather sluggish. Once
I got full power in, I'd reach over and retract the flaperons, and the
plane would jump up into the sky. That was full flaps though; I don't know
that I've ever taken off with just 1 notch of flaps, so your mileage may
vary...
Adding flaperons during flight does produce a noticeable pitch down of
the nose, which is another reason for me not to use them during takeoff;
I want the nose up, not down...
I believe Cliff is right about the drag. Flaperons slightly reduce
my stall speed, but the rate of descent is noticibly greater, so I
suspect they are generating a lot of drag without a proportionate amount
of lift. (Which fits in with my experience of sluggish takeoffs with
flaperons on.)
-Jon-
.--- stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
JOHN
THE ENGINE SPEED DID NOT GO UP JUST THE TACK ,I'M SORRY THAT IS
PROBABLY WHAT I SAID BUT THE TACK IT SELF WOULD GO UP FROM ONE MAG TO THE
OTHER AND THE ENGINE DID NOT SPEED UP. IN ONE OF THE BOOKS I GET UL
/ FLYING , OR THE EXPERIMENTER HERE A WHILE BACK THIS GUY HAD THE SAME
PROBLEM THAT I AM HAVING BUT I CAN'T REMEMBER WHAT HE DONE TO FIX IT .
RICK
On Mon, 19 Jan 1998 07:21:20
-0600 John Jung writes:
>RICK M LIBERSAT wrote:
>>
>> KOLB GROUP ( HELP )
>> .
>> SATURDAY I FLEW MY M /3 WITH NO PROBLEMS IT FLEW GREAT AND ALL
>WENT
>> WELL
>>
>> TODAY I WENT BACK TO THE AIRPORT WHERE IT WAS IN THE HANGER ROLLER
>HER
>> OUT DID MY PRE-FLIGHT ALL OK STARTED THE 582 NOTICED THAT THE
>VOLT
>> METER WAS AT ABOUT 7 / 8 VOLTS NOW WITH THIS I THOUGHT IT WOULD GO
>UP TO
>> 12 V IN A FEW MIN. THEN I SWITCHED TO MAG 1 AT 3000 RPM
>> VERY LITTLE DROP , THEN BACK TO BOTH THEN SWITCHED TO MAG 2 THE
>TACK
>> WENT TO 4000 RPM'S CLEARLY TO HIGH OF A DIFF.
>
> Rick,
> Is this correct? Did the rpm's really go up when you swithched to
>Mag
>2? Or did the tach go up without the engine speeding up?
>John Jung
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henry C. Wortman" <hwortman(at)mail.datasys.net> |
Rick;
I assume you were talking about a analog tach. However this weekend I
installed a tiny tach on a 503 DCDI and noticed a tremendous difference
when checking the individual mags. Then it dawned on me that the pickup
was the wire wrapped around one ignition wire. Therefore only one mag
was being monitored. I assume that the other reading was reading the
field from the other mag ignition wire.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Sharp" <msharp(at)tgn.net> |
I have a friend that did the same thing, only when he dipped the tail to
keep from "hooking" the wires the tail wheel tookout the top strand of
barbed wire off of the fence. (the staples were pointing out, and the wheel
rolled over the wire after he pulled the wire out of three or so posts.) He
was able to bring it around and land, then clean out his shorts........
Any one you can walk away from is a good one :-)
-----Original Message-----
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com <jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com>
Date: Monday, January 19, 1998 7:47 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 3TN0
> Been there done that in a Cherokee. Let's just say I don't want to
> ever do that again.
>
> Wasn't planned that way but it worked. Was doing some short field
> takeoff practice with an instructor. I blew it, I did exactly what he
> said and we started stalling and settled back to the runway. Didn't
> have enough runway left to stop. Options were either off the end
> through the ditch, ground loop it and bust the airplane, through the
> wires or under them. We chose the later. Secret, not to hook the
> tail on the wires.
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: 3TN0
>Author: William Hinkelmann at MAILGATE
>Date: 1/18/98 8:04 PM
>
>
> Any chance of flying it in under the powerlines? Sounds sort of scarry
>but I have had an experience where I wish I would have taken the LOW road,
>opposed to the HIGH road over and stall at the top.
>_____________________
>William Hinkelmann
>whink(at)mindspring.com
>-
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>Hello,
>I am a new member (about 3 minutes) to the group.
>I will probably ask a lot of dumb question; this may be one.
>
>Has anyone started a Firefly and changed their mind and offered the
>kit
>for sale?
>
>Thanks in advance for any response.
>
>Woody Weaver
Whadaya want for it?
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>....they were not contacting the cylinder walls much at all and to us
did
>not
>appear to ever have.
Larry,
I'm no expert but if you mean you could still see a good "hone pattern"
on the cylinder wall, that doesn't mean your rings weren't seated. Unless
I've been living a charmed existence, you should see only very slight
wear on the cylinder walls all the way to 100 or 200 hours or even more.
Did you do a compression check? Also, what does "damaged the piston ring"
mean? Rings are very brittle and are usually new, worn-out, or broken!
Don't reuse any ring that falls into the last 2 categories.
"Build (or repair) fast - WALK soon. "
...Just a thought. (way behind schedule on the Twinstar, BTW!)
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 503DC static RPM test problems |
>Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 00:44:53 -0500
>To: Chm12345
>From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
>Subject: Re: 503DC static RPM test problems
>In-Reply-To: <350ce2ca.34c3fd80(at)aol.com>
>
>>Dear Kolb Friends,
>>
>>In preparation to the first flight of my Firestar, I tried to do the engine
>>break-in yesterday. I have a new 503DC with a 62" IVO 3-blade ground
>>adjustable prop. The engine runs very well until I try to go to full
power. At
>>about 5000 RPM increasing throttle will do very little until you get the
lever
>>almost to full open. As you open the throttle, the EGT begins to slowly fall
>>to about 800 degrees and eventually the RPM slowly goes to 6500 RPM (after
>>some delay). It stays at 6500 RPM for about 30 seconds at which time it
drops
>>to 6000-5800 RPM for 30 more seconds and then it goes up to 6500 RPM again.
>>The cycle then repeats again. The EGT remains low at 800 degrees and CHT is
>>also pretty low. If I reduce the pitch of the prop the engine will
overspeed.
>>Jetting has been checked to be as recommended and conditions are standard 70
>>degrees at sea level.
>>
>>Now, I though that the problem would be the main jetting being too rich but
>>after talking to some people that owned 3 blade IVO props, they reported
>>having similar problems and jetting would help but not eliminate the
>>fluctuating RPM problem. They also mentioned that when they changed to a
wood
>>(or Warp) prop the problem went away. I've also been told that the 503DC
>>standard jetting should work pretty good in standard conditions.
>>
>>Has anyone experienced this before?. Ideas?.
>>
>>Chris
>>-
>>YES!!! I posted a lot of stuff to this same problem about a year ago.
Same problem with a 532 and a 64" IVO. The problem is that the blades were
not pitched the same. One had a lot of pitch, one had normal, and one had
little. Drove me Nuts for weeks. Tore the engine down, retimed the rotary
valve, etc. Finally thought to check the prop for consistent pitch, and it
was quickly solved. Will Uribe made me a web page and there is a picture of
my home made angle checker on it. I do not have a link, but it is at
> http://members.aol.com./WillU/index2.html
>Your engine symptoms sound like an instant replay of mine. The easiest
cure, (if the prop is in fact the problem) is bending little L-shaped shims
that you can reach down through the hole in the middle of the prop hub, and
slip under the lazy cams while the bolts are loosened. Shim until perfect.
Enjoy.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
I guess that I wasn't explicit enough. I bought the plane with 4.5 hours
on it. It ran good- at 48 hours did a compression check and the
compression was down to 95 and 92 lbs. I noticed a loss of power soon
after that. In the tear down the rings were stuck really tight and after
some soaking to loosen them failed (one bent) we replaced all of them.
The rings had only a couple of polished spots on them- the cylinder walls
still show the hone marks. It appeared to me that the had not seated
properly from the first- else why the small polished spots with the rest
of the ring not showing anything?
larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
Henry
It is an analog tach . and you may be right the gray tach wire that
comes out of the 582 is in a spiral wrap with the rest of the wires it
could be breaking down ,but it is clear of the ignition wire .JOHN had a
point about the ignition switch it could be breaking down with the vib.
at low speed
Rick
writes:
>Rick;
> I assume you were talking about a analog tach. However this
>weekend I
>installed a tiny tach on a 503 DCDI and noticed a tremendous
>difference
>when checking the individual mags. Then it dawned on me that the
>pickup
>was the wire wrapped around one ignition wire. Therefore only one mag
>was being monitored. I assume that the other reading was reading the
>field from the other mag ignition wire.
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
>I guess that I wasn't explicit enough. I bought the plane with 4.5 hours
>on it. It ran good- at 48 hours did a compression check and the
>compression was down to 95 and 92 lbs. I noticed a loss of power soon
>after that. In the tear down the rings were stuck really tight and after
>some soaking to loosen them failed (one bent) we replaced all of them.
>The rings had only a couple of polished spots on them- the cylinder walls
>still show the hone marks. It appeared to me that the had not seated
>properly from the first- else why the small polished spots with the rest
>of the ring not showing anything?
>larry
Larry,
Your msg proves something to me (AGAIN). If I jump on something over
email, I've usually mistunderstood the msg. So, sorry about that.
I am glad to know it wasn't really a question about whether to fly w/
damaged rings!! :-)
As for your real question: Altho the old rings showed polish in some areas
and no apparent wear in others, this sounds more like a symptom of the recent
several hours of operation, not a ring seating problem in the first ~40
hours.
The primary problem sounds like stuck rings due to carbon build-up in the
ring grooves. If they stick there is some blow-by, thus lower compression
and other problems. The rings were probably relatively clean the first
40+ hours, and that is why things ran well, including good compression.
With good clean rings, good fuel/oil, and piston and cylinders in size
tolerence, they *will* seat during break-in. Dirty and they will start
to stick, probably polishing small areas until something worse happens.
Measuring piston and cylinder size tolerences require a hole gauge and a
2-3" micrometer. See something like CPS Care and Feeding for correct
tolerences.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Segar <segarcts(at)qtm.net> |
Is this getting sent?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Segar <segarcts(at)qtm.net> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Segar <segarcts(at)qtm.net> |
Charlie writes.
Ihave a 1991 firestar would like to put adj. trim tab on the
elev.Does anybody have any ideas?It flew level until i put doors on
it,now I have to keep back pressure on the stick to keep it flying
level.
Also you winter fliers.My brother was flying his phantom
sunday and after he took of he noticed he wasnt he wasnt able to
controll the throttle,so he went around the pattern and made a short
final .When he got close to the ground he shut the motor off.He
inspected the carbs and both were iced up.=09
The temp was 27* humity 80% We live in lower s west mi. next
to Lake MICHIGAN.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Sorry, I forgot who wrote something like:
>"rings stuck and compression low at 48 hours of operation"
It would be nice to know what oil was used, mixing ratio, and whether there
was possibly some reaction of two different oils at the 40 hour time. You
mentioned you bought it with 40 hours on it and by 48 or so it was weak.
Maybe the previous owner used too much oil, or a poor grade, or maybe the
oil you started using in it at 40 hours was incompatible with the previous
brand. I wouldn't think this could really happen if it is a premix system
(no oil injection). What oil and mixture (or is it injection) were you using
from 40 to 48 hrs?
Another possibility I have been wondering about the deposits that form, the
thick black tar-like stuff on the plugs and prop: Could it be leftovers from
the fuel? Could it be possible that your plane was jetted OK for its previous
owner at a lower elevation than you are currently operating it? So now it is
getting too much fuel (assuming you did not re-jet)? Just another guess...
I see this black stuff on an oil-injected 582 using Rotax injection oil.
Frank Reynen: I received something from you but I have no idea what to do
with it. I cannot post photos from here. I saw the mount someone posted for
Richard Pike, it looks like the current Kolb side-mount design except with
two shock mounts per point and more adjustability. Thanks guys...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
> Frank Reynen: I received something from you but I have no idea what to do
> with it.
I don't either. It may be a JFIF (?) format file by Storm
Technologies....possibly something to do with Adobe.
For Frank....best to ask what the recipient what picture format he
can use before sending it out. Thanks for the effort though.
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Rick,
There was a pilot not far from here that had similar problems when he
turned the mag switch. The problem turned out to be a defective switch.
He replaced it and everything was fine.
If you are using those clip-type safety pins, I would take every one of
them off and use stainless safety rings similar to a key ring. They are
used for sailing, and are high quality. You can pick them up at a marina.
They come in various sizes. I think mine are 5/8" in diameter. There are
two kinds: one that looks like a key ring, and the other that has a
"easy" starter wire in the middle. If you take your plane down often you
want the latter type, otherwise it will be difficult getting them on and
off. You need not worry about the "easy" starter type. It looks as though
there isn't enough overlap (they overlap about half the circumference),
but I have them on every clevis pin, and I fly through grass and snow and
never a hint of coming off in 10 years. You may want to test it by trying
to pry apart the overlapped part of the ring. It has quite a bit of
spring action. I never liked those other safety clips from day one. It is
possible for them to "un-clip" especially on the tail bracing. They can
unhook when going through grass or weeds. I guess you discovered that!
Now I know why I never liked them.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
writes:
>KOLB GROUP ( HELP )
>
>SATURDAY I FLEW MY M /3 WITH NO PROBLEMS IT FLEW GREAT AND ALL WENT
>WELL
>
>TODAY I WENT BACK TO THE AIRPORT WHERE IT WAS IN THE HANGER ROLLER HER
>OUT DID MY PRE-FLIGHT ALL OK STARTED THE 582 NOTICED THAT THE VOLT
>METER WAS AT ABOUT 7 / 8 VOLTS NOW WITH THIS I THOUGHT IT WOULD GO UP
>TO 12 V IN A FEW MIN. THEN I SWITCHED TO MAG 1 AT 3000 RPM
>VERY LITTLE DROP , THEN BACK TO BOTH THEN SWITCHED TO MAG 2 THE
>TACK WENT TO 4000 RPM'S CLEARLY TO HIGH OF A DIFF. NOW I KNOW THAT
>THIS IS WHERE I WILL CATCH HECK NOW THE VOLTAGE IS UP TO ABOUT 9 /10
>VOLTS
>DID THE MAG CHECK AGAIN THE DIFF. THIS TIME WAS ONLY ABOUT 500 RPM'S
>DIFF. THEN TURNED THE STROBES ON IT LOOKED LIKE WITH THE LOAD IT WAS
>OK 1 / 2 HUNDRED DIFF. I KNOW THAT THE TACK IS IN KNOW WAY TIED IN
>WITH THE POWER BUT AS THE VOLTAGE CAME UP THE PROBLEM WENT AWAY
>I TESTED THE BATT. WITH A DVM IT HAD 7 VOLTS AFTER FLYING TODAY I
>THINK THE BATT IS GONE DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA'S WHY THE TACK IS DOING
>THIS ?
>I don't THINK IT IS THE TACK , I HAVE A 3PHASE REG.
>RECT.
>
>I DID SOME STALLS WITH FLAPS AND WITH OUT TODAY VERY WINDY GUST TO
>21
> LANDING WAS TRICKY BUT THE M/3 DID GOOD , AFTER I LANDED WENT TO THE
>RAMP AND WAS PLAYING WITH THE MAGS AGAIN STILL SOME DIFF. BUT NOT TO
>BAD DID THIS FOR A SHORT TIME THEN SHUT IT DOWN GOT OUT STARTED
>CLEANING HER UP AND SEEN A SMALL DING IN MY PROP , I THOUGH IT WAS A
>SMALL ROCK THEN ON THE REAR OF THE CAGE THEIR WAS A TEAR IN THE STITTS
>ABOUT 3/4 in. LONG STILL THOUGH IT WAS A SMALL ROCK THEN LOOKED AT
>THE FLAP HORN THE SAFETY PIN WAS GONE JUST THE CLEVIS PIN WAS IN
>THE HOLE WAS DONE BY THE SAFETY PIN IT WAS THEIR ON THE PRE-FLIGHT
>BUT BROKE CAUSING THE PROP STRIKE THEN GOING THROUGH THE STITTS
>
>CHECK YOUR SAFETY PINS I TOOK ALL OF MINE OFF AND TRASHED THEM AN PUT
>BRAND NEW ONES ON
>
>RICK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Rick,
One more little tip, when using the safety rings. If you are setting up
your plane each time you fly, all you need is the main 5/16" A/N clevis
pin going through the wing tab and cage with an aluminum spacer drilled
out to 5/16" that has a wall thickness of 1/8". Put the clevis pin in
from the rear, then put the spacer on, then the stainless safety ring. I
have the spacers on the bottom of the lift struts as well, only they are
drilled to 1/4". It's not necessary to use A/N bolts and that creates
more work for you each time you want to fly. Try to make it as
"tool-free" as possible, then you won't begin to look at setting up your
plane as a headache.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
writes:
>Ralph
> thanks I will do just that or better I was always leary about the
>safety pins and now I know why , this could of had a bad ending and
>it is not a good feeling thinking of what could of happened?. I will
>pull the switch out inspect it and test it . On the inboard of the
>wing the attachment to the cage I have been useing A / N BOLTS with a
>casaleted nylon inside the nut with the safety pin. and on the wing
>strut I do the same it takes more time to do this but not that much
>time now I will do this on the control / and flaps as well
>as the horz.stab on the bottom of the rudder for sure! I will get the
>rings you use to put through the bolt's
>writes:
>>Rick,
>>
>>There was a pilot not far from here that had similar problems when he
>>turned the mag switch. The problem turned out to be a defective
>>switch. He replaced it and everything was fine.
>>
>>If you are using those clip-type safety pins, I would take every one
>>of them off and use stainless safety rings similar to a key ring. They
>>are used for sailing, and are high quality. You can pick them up at a
>>marina. They come in various sizes. I think mine are 5/8" in diameter.
>>There are two kinds: one that looks like a key ring, and the other
>>that has a "easy" starter wire in the middle. If you take your plane
>>down often you want the latter type, otherwise it will be difficult
>>getting them on and off. You need not worry about the "easy" starter
>>type. It looks as though there isn't enough overlap (they overlap
>>about half the circumference), but I have them on every clevis pin,
>>and I fly through grass and snow and never a hint of coming off in 10
>>years. You may want to test it by trying to pry apart the overlapped
>>part of the ring. It has quite a bit of spring action. I never liked
>>those other safety clips from day one. Now I know why.
>>
>>Ralph Burlingame
>>Original FireStar
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>>writes:
>>>KOLB GROUP ( HELP )
>>>SATURDAY I FLEW MY M /3 WITH NO PROBLEMS IT FLEW GREAT >>>AND ALL
WENT WELL TODAY I WENT BACK TO THE AIRPORT WHERE >>>IT WAS IN THE HANGER
ROLLER HER OUT DID MY PRE-FLIGHT ALL >>>OK STARTED THE 582 NOTICED
THAT THE VOLT METER WAS AT >>>ABOUT 7 / 8 VOLTS NOW WITH THIS I THOUGHT
IT WOULD GO
>>>UP TO 12 V IN A FEW MIN. THEN I SWITCHED TO MAG 1 AT 3000 RPM
>>>VERY LITTLE DROP , THEN BACK TO BOTH THEN SWITCHED TO >>>MAG 2 THE
TACK WENT TO 4000 RPM'S CLEARLY TO HIGH OF A DIFF. >>>NOW I KNOW THAT
THIS IS WHERE I WILL CATCH HECK NOW THE >>>VOLTAGE IS UP TO ABOUT 9 /10
VOLTS DID THE MAG CHECK AGAIN >>>THE DIFF. THIS TIME WAS ONLY ABOUT 500
RPM'S DIFF. THEN >>>TURNED THE STROBES ON IT LOOKED LIKE WITH THE LOAD
IT
>>>WAS OK 1 / 2 HUNDRED DIFF. I KNOW THAT THE TACK IS IN KNOW >>>WAY
TIED IN WITH THE POWER BUT AS THE VOLTAGE CAME UP >>>THE PROBLEM WENT
AWAY. I TESTED THE BATT. WITH A DVM IT >>>HAD 7 VOLTS AFTER FLYING
TODAY I THINK THE BATT IS GONE DO >>>YOU HAVE ANY IDEA'S WHY THE TACK IS
DOING THIS ?
>>>I don't THINK IT IS THE TACK, I HAVE A 3PHASE REG.
>>>RECT. I DID SOME STALLS WITH FLAPS AND WITH OUT TODAY >>>VERY WINDY
GUST TO 21 LANDING WAS TRICKY BUT THE M/3 DID >>>GOOD, AFTER I LANDED
WENT TO THE RAMP AND WAS PLAYING >>>WITH THE MAGS AGAIN STILL SOME DIFF.
BUT NOT TO BAD DID THIS >>>FOR A SHORT TIME THEN SHUT IT DOWN GOT OUT
STARTED
>>>CLEANING HER UP AND SEEN A SMALL DING IN MY PROP , I THOUGH >>>IT WAS
A SMALL ROCK THEN ON THE REAR OF THE CAGE THEIR >>>WAS A TEAR IN THE
STITTS ABOUT 3/4 in. LONG STILL THOUGH IT >>>WAS A SMALL ROCK THEN
LOOKED AT THE FLAP HORN THE >>>SAFETY PIN WAS GONE JUST THE CLEVIS
PIN WAS IN
>>>THE HOLE WAS DONE BY THE SAFETY PIN IT WAS THEIR ON THE >>>PRE-FLIGHT
BUT BROKE CAUSING THE PROP STRIKE THEN GOING >>>THROUGH THE STITTS
CHECK YOUR SAFETY PINS I TOOK ALL OF >>>MINE OFF AND TRASHED THEM AN PUT
BRAND NEW ONES ON
>>>
>>>RICK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AMAV8R <AMAV8R(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 503DC static RPM test problems |
I've found that going one main jet size smaller solves the problem. your egt
should go up slightly also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
Ralph: What are the spacers for? Could we use washers instead? Or do they
have to be 1/8" thick?
Thanks for all the great ideas, guys!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim tabs&ice |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Charles,
I've had a couple of situations where I thought that maybe I had carb
icing. After warming up the engine, I gave it full power and then it
hesitated. The temp and humidity were close to those you gave. After
taking the float bowl and air cleaner
off, I didn't see anything that was obvious. After a ground run up, I
took it around the pattern and haven't had a problem since. I attribute
this situation to carb ice. I may be wrong in saying this, but I think
carb ice will build in the carb, but at higher engine speeds the ice
isn't able to adhere due to the lubrication of the oil (mixed gas only).
It's ingested into the engine and passes through. Notice that it seemed
to occur only on takeoff with the engine probably idling prior to that.
You can install a MAC trim electrical trim system from Menzimer Aircraft
Components (760) 598-0592 out of Vista, California. Gary Menzimer won
Grand Champion Light Plane at Oshkosh '97 and had this system installed
in his FireStar, N423G. I had a chance to talk to Gary while I was out
there and the guy is a real perfectionist. He has one of the most (if not
"the most") beautiful Kolbs ever built. You can get the MAC trim system
from other dealers too. Check in the back of "Sport Aviation". The other
option is to put a fixed lexan tab on the elevator.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
writes:
>Charlie writes.
> Ihave a 1991 firestar would like to put adj. trim tab on
>the
>elev.Does anybody have any ideas?It flew level until i put doors on
>it,now I have to keep back pressure on the stick to keep it flying
>level.
> Also you winter fliers.My brother was flying his phantom
>sunday and after he took of he noticed he wasnt he wasnt able to
>controll the throttle,so he went around the pattern and made a short
>final .When he got close to the ground he shut the motor off.He
>inspected the carbs and both were iced up.=09
> The temp was 27* humity 80% We live in lower s west mi. next
>=
>to Lake MICHIGAN.
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop <Cavuontop(at)aol.com> |
Yeah. A friend of mine used it on his fire star. It looked great for one
season and then it started to crackle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Jim,
The spacers are to keep the clevis pins from backing out under vibration
with the very end of the pin next to the safety ring. You probably could
use washers if they have a 5/16" hole for the main, but you would have to
use quite a few of them and they have a tendency to get lost. Maybe carry
a bunch with you or glue the number that you need, for each pin, together
with epoxy.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
writes:
>Ralph: What are the spacers for? Could we use washers instead? Or
>do they have to be 1/8" thick?
>Thanks for all the great ideas, guys!
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rigging Tail - Mark III |
The reason they want you to put the ding on the bottom is so you don't
keep seeing it and keep worrying about it. (This is a joke, OK)
I would think the area under the greatest stress would be the point
where the boom tube joins the cage thus probably why they suggest it
being towards the tail.
Ding up or down? Good question, OK engineers what about this.
On a hard landing being on the bottom would put it under tension. The
tube would tend to flex downward (sag) thus causing a stretching
effect of the material thus have less tendency to cave further inward.
If it were on top, it would be under compression. Under compression
because of the concave ding it would be weaker and tend to bend or
cave inward at that point. The fuselage tube works quite a bit if you
really watch it. I think this may be part of the reason why they
would want it down.
Assume Jerry is Landing
6-1/2 G's
!
^ V ^
! ! --- Direction of Force
! ! on each end
Tail Boom Tube Cage
------------------------------------------
Ding
--------------^----------------------------
!
V
Tendency to Bend
Down
(Sag)
In the air your much more likely to encounter higher positive G's than
negative. (Heavy handed Kolb pilots pulling out of a dive after a
strafing run.) Again I would believe this to cause the boom tube to
flex downward in the center thus placing a ding under tension rather
than compression. I was just thinking how a neighbors (hot) dog could
be used to demonstrate this effect....
OK, let's learn, pick it a part.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Rigging Tail - Mark III
Date: 1/18/98 11:55 AM
Folks,
I've completed the Tail feathers this week. I'm starting on attaching the
control surfaces. I made a jig similar to the one in the manual but I made it
out of 1" Al angle, I can use spring clamps to hold the hinge in place. I also
made one for the Flap to Aileron to rear spar attachments.
Question: Does anyone have any "tricks" or remember any pitfalls when rigging
the tail?
I also had a "ding in the fuselage tube about 6' from the end, about 2" x 7/8"
x
< 1/16" (looks like a thumb print.) I called the Tech line and they told me to
orient the ding to the bottom and toward the tail and there should be no
problem.
Could someone help reassure me that there will be no problem. :-)
On another subject. My wife and I were walking through Lowes the other day.
She wants to paint the inside of our home. We came up to the section where the
power painter's etc.. are. We saw a HVLP rig, she ask what it was used for. I
explained, and she thought it would be great instead of rollers etc.. Then I
casually mentioned that we could also use it to paint the Mark III. She said,
"Lets go for it!" So it looks like I may be using the HVLP system ( It's Great
to have such a partner!). I think I deleted all the discussion about the
system, If someone could repost I'd appreciate it.
TTFN
Peace,
Mike Sharp
Kolb Mark III
Cut First Tubing, 11-28-97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PKrotje <PKrotje(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 503DC static RPM test problems |
<< It stays at 6500 RPM for about 30 seconds at which time it drops
to 6000-5800 RPM for 30 more seconds and then it goes up to 6500 RPM again.
The cycle then repeats again. The EGT remains low at 800 degrees and CHT is
also pretty low. If I reduce the pitch of the prop the engine will overspeed.
Jetting has been checked to be as recommended and conditions are standard 70
degrees at sea level. >>
A Thunder Gull pilot had this problem at our airport when he was trying to
break in his engnine. Of course, the first thing he tried was to change prop
pitch on his Warp Drive. Come to find out on further inspection, the clip on
the carb needles were installed on TOP of the plastic spring retainer instead
of below. Installing them correctly solved the problem.
His symptoms were:
idle ok and run ok up to about 4400. Then hesitate as throttle was advanced,
finally zooming to 6000 but running at an unsteady rpm at full throttle.
Don't know if this could be your problem but is one area to check.
Pete Krotje
EAA tech. counselor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PKrotje <PKrotje(at)aol.com> |
<< guess that I wasn't explicit enough. I bought the plane with 4.5 hours
on it. It ran good- at 48 hours did a compression check and the
compression was down to 95 and 92 lbs. I noticed a loss of power soon
after that. In the tear down the rings were stuck really tight and after
some soaking to loosen them failed (one bent) we replaced all of them.
The rings had only a couple of polished spots on them- the cylinder walls
still show the hone marks. It appeared to me that the had not seated
properly from the first- else why the small polished spots with the rest
of the ring not showing anything?
larry >>
The rings probably were seated properly at one time. As they became gunked
up, they became inable to move and follow the cylinder walls and were making
contact with the walls only in a small area.
If your rings are sticking at that early a stage, you had better find a
different oil.
Pete Krotje
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "friend" <friend(at)bright.net> |
Try reversing wires on the tac.
Duane Z
----------
> From: RICK M LIBERSAT <rick106(at)juno.com>
> To: jrjung(at)execpc.com
> Cc: Kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Re: (HELP)
> Date: Monday, January 19, 1998 8:32 PM
>
> JOHN
> THE ENGINE SPEED DID NOT GO UP JUST THE TACK ,I'M SORRY THAT IS
> PROBABLY WHAT I SAID BUT THE TACK IT SELF WOULD GO UP FROM ONE MAG TO THE
> OTHER AND THE ENGINE DID NOT SPEED UP. IN ONE OF THE BOOKS I GET UL
> / FLYING , OR THE EXPERIMENTER HERE A WHILE BACK THIS GUY HAD THE SAME
> PROBLEM THAT I AM HAVING BUT I CAN'T REMEMBER WHAT HE DONE TO FIX IT .
>
> RICK
> On Mon, 19 Jan 1998 07:21:20
> >RICK M LIBERSAT wrote:
> >>
> >> KOLB GROUP ( HELP )
> >> .
> >> SATURDAY I FLEW MY M /3 WITH NO PROBLEMS IT FLEW GREAT AND ALL
> >WENT
> >> WELL
> >>
> >> TODAY I WENT BACK TO THE AIRPORT WHERE IT WAS IN THE HANGER ROLLER
> >HER
> >> OUT DID MY PRE-FLIGHT ALL OK STARTED THE 582 NOTICED THAT THE
> >VOLT
> >> METER WAS AT ABOUT 7 / 8 VOLTS NOW WITH THIS I THOUGHT IT WOULD GO
> >UP TO
> >> 12 V IN A FEW MIN. THEN I SWITCHED TO MAG 1 AT 3000 RPM
> >> VERY LITTLE DROP , THEN BACK TO BOTH THEN SWITCHED TO MAG 2 THE
> >TACK
> >> WENT TO 4000 RPM'S CLEARLY TO HIGH OF A DIFF.
> >
> > Rick,
> > Is this correct? Did the rpm's really go up when you swithched to
> >Mag
> >2? Or did the tach go up without the engine speeding up?
> >John Jung
> >-
> >
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop <Cavuontop(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim tabs&ice |
<< inspected the carbs and both were iced up. >>
This is very interesting. Ice on the outside, or ice on the inside preventing
the slides from moving?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Kiger" <edkiger(at)netnitco.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim tabs&ice |
----------
> From: Charles Segar <segarcts(at)qtm.net>
> To: 'Kolb(at)www.intrig.com'
> Subject: Trim tabs&ice
> Date: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 6:25 AM
>
> Charlie writes.
> Ihave a 1991 firestar would like to put adj. trim tab on the
elev.Does anybody have any ideas?It flew level until i put doors on it,now
I have to keep back pressure on the stick to keep it flying level.
kolb yourname@yourdomain
As per the manual on my 94 Firestar it is possible to adjusts the pitch by
adjusting the ailerons. This is done by adjusting both ailerons either up
or down. I don't remember exactly the degree that you are allowed to
adjusts but I don't believe it's more than three or four degrees. This
will adjusts for some up and down pitch.
Ed Kiger
Schererville In.
edkiger(at)netnitco.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Davis" <ldavis(at)gatem02.netusa1.net> |
> From: "Henry C. Wortman" <hwortman(at)mail.datasys.net>
> To: rick106(at)juno.com
> Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Tach's
> Rick;
> I assume you were talking about a analog tach. However this weekend
I
> installed a tiny tach on a 503 DCDI and noticed a tremendous difference
> when checking the individual mags. Then it dawned on me that the pickup
> was the wire wrapped around one ignition wire. Therefore only one mag
> was being monitored. I assume that the other reading was reading the
> field from the other mag ignition wire.
>
Hi:
I just bought a Tiny Tach and haven't installed it yet. Does it work
O.K. ? I wondered how accurate it is. Does the hour meter work O.K.
? I read that the battery inside should last eight years.
--
Larry Davis
Challenger II for sale at
http://www.netusa1.net/~ldavis/batman.html
ldavis@netusa1.net http://www.netusa1.net/~ldavis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henry C. Wortman" <hwortman(at)mail.datasys.net> |
CORRECTION CORRECTION CORRECTION.
The "tiny tach" has only one register that is resettable. It reads
minutes to 59 and then hours. It does not have a totalizer. My mind was
in 'wishful thinking mode'. While the engine is running it reads rpm.
Sorry about the slipup. Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>
>Larry,
>Your msg proves something to me (AGAIN). If I jump on something over
>email, I've usually mistunderstood the msg. So, sorry about that.
>I am glad to know it wasn't really a question about whether to fly w/
>
>damaged rings!! :-)...
>
Same here Larry,
I may have "jumped-in" too quick and been a little sharp, sorry.
On reading your second post, I'd side with the stuck-rings during the
last few hours of operation theory. You said your partner bent one of the
rings removing it. Its possible that it bent because it has been hot and
has lost it's temper. A new (or good) ring will flex quite a bit but will
return to its original dimensions. It is almost impossible to bend it
past a point (yield strength?) where it won't return to its original
shape without breaking. I'd replace all 4.
Now you need to determine the condition of the cylinders. If (with a
bright light) you can see NO vertical scratches that run from the top of
the piston travel to the top of the intake or exhaust ports, you might
just put in new rings, do the break-in per the specs and be alright. If
however, you do see scratches (even very light ones) in these areas, you
need to hone the cylinders. Using fine grit stones, it takes a lot of
honing to enlarge the bore even .001". Stop when the scrathes are gone. A
fresh 60 hone pattern will also help to seat the new rings.
More free advice - check out www.centralsnowmobile.com
I've never used them but recently got a catalog and the difference
between their prices and "genuine ultralight" parts is pretty
jaw-dropping. If (when) I do use them in the future, I plan to verify the
dimensions of each part against the published standards though. Just
don't tell them you're putting their parts in a plane (so I've been
told)!
Take the above for what its worth, I'm just a shade-tree mechanic and a
hard-core cheapskate. Hopefully others in the group will give their
opinions also.
Good Luck!
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tallen" <tooltime(at)tcity.com> |
Fellow Kolbers
I have been flying ultralights, for 17 years. I owned a Flightstar for 13
years, I bought it in 1980. IT had a Kawasaki 440, and I put 520 hours on
it, with out any problems. I flew in northern N.Y., in ice, snow, rain,
cold temps. ( - 10 deg. ), and hot summer days, and never had any carb ice.
I now own a firestar 2, with a 503,and dual carbs. I have 260 hours, on
it with no problems.
I can't imagine all these problems some of you are having, with carb ice,
and other engine problems. If you use good oil, and mix it properly, have
the right jets in the carb., go fly.
>From sunny Florida
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>
> Another possibility I have been wondering about the deposits that
>form, the
>thick black tar-like stuff on the plugs and prop: Could it be
>leftovers from
>the fuel?
The "thick black tar-like stuff" is what's left after 40 or 50 hours of
the most fun you can have with your clothes on! Its the 'dark side' of
pleasure and is normal.
Sorry ...I've been watching too many "X-files" lately.
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MJWAY <MJWAY(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | FireFly First Flight |
I flew my FireFly for the first time yesterday. Quite a thrill. Bought it
about three weeks ago with 49 hrs on it. The all round visibility is great.
Flew for an hour and made a few semi-exciting aborted landings and a few good
landings. All ended with no harm to the FireFly or me.
I had my BFI (Dave) from three years back test fly it for an hour a week ago.
Then the day before I took it up he and I went up in an Explorer for an hour,
my first tail dragger time. My limited previous UL experience is 35 hrs in a
Hurricane (actually an Avenger). Boy the difference in how things look during
landing between the Hurricane and the FireFly takes a bit of getting use to!
Both Dave and I noted that the aileron/flaperon forces, and to a lesser extent
the elevator forces, are quite high. The previous owner/builder had cut off
about 4 inches from the stick for better clearance when getting in and out.
My first inclination is to put that length back on. But the % increase in
leverage would not be very much. Which starts me thinking that maybe I will
end up wanting a stick even longer that factory specification. I would sure
like to here from some folks with FireFly experience on this issue. Thanks.
Chris W.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>I keep hearing from you guys up in Oklahoma, I am in Shreveport, maybe
>we can
>keep the clubs in contact and attend each others events. I am just
>looking for
>flyings to go to.
>tim
>
Hello Tim,
There are some fine clubs in your (our) area. Have you ever heard of
"HALF" -Houston Area Light Flyers? (I love that acronym.) Some great
folks in that group! Our club will be involved with the Cedar Mills
fly-in next June 26-28 on lake Texhoma (south-central OK/TX border). Last
year's was the first and there were 70+ UL's (if memory serves). If the
weather is good, should be even better this year.
Think about it!
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net> |
>More free advice - check out www.centralsnowmobile.com
>
>I've never used them but recently got a catalog and the difference
>between their prices and "genuine ultralight" parts is pretty
>jaw-dropping. If (when) I do use them in the future, I plan to verify the
>dimensions of each part against the published standards though. Just
>don't tell them you're putting their parts in a plane (so I've been
>told)!
>
>Take the above for what its worth, I'm just a shade-tree mechanic and a
>hard-core cheapskate. Hopefully others in the group will give their
>opinions also.
>
>Good Luck!
>
>-Mick Fine
This may sound like a good deal but do not use snowmobile pistons in
aircraft engines. The guys giving instructions at my field seized pistons 3
times. They were using new snowmobile pistons. I guess there is difference
between material pistons are made of. More silicone or something in the
aircraft pistons. How many times have you seen a snowmobile go to full
power and stay there for 5-10 minutes? After they when to aircraft pistons
they had no more seizures.
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar with Rotax 377
Schenectady, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
In the recent brouha, I am forced to admit that most of it was self
inflicted. I repeated a phrase that I took at the time to be tongue in
cheek and did not clearly show that I ment it in that fashion. :-( I also
did not spell out clearly all the different factors and actions taken by
myself. I should have just stated I've replaced the rings do I have to
sand blast my car again? The answer is equally obvious- no, use my truck,
its older and heavier.
The oil that I used was a TW3 oil. I mentioned some time ago when I
discovered the problem that I will definately go to a different oil
either Golden Spectrem or AV 2. I believe that the problem was not sudden
and was just a build up of carbon over time. It slowly lost power. CPS
says that if your compression check is 80 pounds or less then you have a
problem. I now believe that the problem is there at 90 or 95. That is
what mine checked out to be before teardown. The theory that the rings
had lost their temper was I am sure correct, the ring bent when removal
was attempted. All were replaced along with the cageless bearings on both
cylinders. There was no damage that we could see in the cylinders, I
believe that we caught it before any damage was done.
To all that took the time to sooth my wounds- Thank you.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: Safety pins |
This may or may not be a safety issue, but shouldn't the clevis pins
be inserted so the head is facing the front thus if the clip should be
left off, the natural tendency would be for it to work towards the
rear thus stay in place.
I was taught it was considered a no no to put bolts in with the head
towards the rear for that reason. You don't want them to work out.
Just a thought
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Safety pins
Date: 1/20/98 12:36 PM
Jim,
The spacers are to keep the clevis pins from backing out under vibration
with the very end of the pin next to the safety ring. You probably could
use washers if they have a 5/16" hole for the main, but you would have to
use quite a few of them and they have a tendency to get lost. Maybe carry
a bunch with you or glue the number that you need, for each pin, together
with epoxy.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
writes:
>Ralph: What are the spacers for? Could we use washers instead? Or
>do they have to be 1/8" thick?
>Thanks for all the great ideas, guys!
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marino, Frank J (Youngstown ARB)" <Frank.Marino(at)yng.afres.af.mil> |
to GeoR38, man with all the bent landing gear in the hangar I thought
you were starting an aluminum recycling center.
FRANK J. MARINO
Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
>----------
>From: GeoR38[SMTP:GeoR38(at)aol.com]
>Sent: Saturday, January 17, 1998 1:04 AM
>To: ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu; rpike(at)preferred.com
>Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: 3TN0
>
>
><< i agree, these are the funnest kind of "airports". i mostly find mine on
> gravel bars along the Sacramento River. a little too fast and the end
> comes up ooooh so quick. :-) W/ these i find it best to fly it on
> as this really allows you to do the last part as slow as possible.
> Makes getting there all that much more fun! >>
>;Bless your risk taking heart, Ben, you have more confidence than I do right
>now but I think with the right practice I might me able to land in half the
>space I do now, but I will probably have to buy a couple dozen landing gears
>until I get self taught how to land slow!
>GeoR38
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly First Flight |
Welcome to the group with you nice new toy.
Four inches on the stick would make a lot of difference. As far as
going more than that I think any more and you would experience
problems clearing the stick getting in and out.
As far as stick force I only have 1 flight around the field in ours
but I don't recall it being to bad but then I'm still used to a
Citabria which was a little heavy on the controls especially the
ailerons. Next things you'll want to add spades like the do on
aerobatic planes.
I would like to compare some notes.
What area of the country are you in, sounds like your in warmer
climate?
How tall are you?
How much do you weigh, honest now wee haft vays of finding out?
What engine do you have?
Short or full enclosure?
What cruise speed look like?
Is it nose heavy (requires back stick pressure) or tail heavy (forward
stick pressure)?
Do you have the EIS instrument system?
What area did you buy it out of?
Enjoy your new toy.
Look forward to your reply,
Jerry Bidle
FireFly - 100%
ThunderGull - 1%
Hangar Partner N3-Pup 100%
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: FireFly First Flight
Date: 1/20/98 9:53 PM
I flew my FireFly for the first time yesterday. Quite a thrill. Bought it
about three weeks ago with 49 hrs on it. The all round visibility is great.
Flew for an hour and made a few semi-exciting aborted landings and a few good
landings. All ended with no harm to the FireFly or me.
I had my BFI (Dave) from three years back test fly it for an hour a week ago.
Then the day before I took it up he and I went up in an Explorer for an hour,
my first tail dragger time. My limited previous UL experience is 35 hrs in a
Hurricane (actually an Avenger). Boy the difference in how things look during
landing between the Hurricane and the FireFly takes a bit of getting use to!
Both Dave and I noted that the aileron/flaperon forces, and to a lesser extent
the elevator forces, are quite high. The previous owner/builder had cut off
about 4 inches from the stick for better clearance when getting in and out.
My first inclination is to put that length back on. But the % increase in
leverage would not be very much. Which starts me thinking that maybe I will
end up wanting a stick even longer that factory specification. I would sure
like to here from some folks with FireFly experience on this issue. Thanks.
Chris W.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
I could be wrong but I am sure there are two different models out
there. One records time plus functions only as a tach, the other is a
tach only and actually there is a third one. It total hours only.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Tachs
Date: 1/20/98 8:28 PM
CORRECTION CORRECTION CORRECTION.
The "tiny tach" has only one register that is resettable. It reads
minutes to 59 and then hours. It does not have a totalizer. My mind was
in 'wishful thinking mode'. While the engine is running it reads rpm.
Sorry about the slipup. Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RIVARD" <RIVA01B(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US> |
FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH,I HAVE A TWINSTAR SET TO FACTORY SPECS.AFTER TRIM IS SET
IT'S "FINGER TIP" CONTROL.
BOB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
I apologize for trying to send info via attachments to some of you
regarding my mufflermount design so I had Christina (my copilot) add a
"techinfo page" to our homepage that every one should be able to open up
directly by clicking on the hot link below.
Frank Reynen MarkIII@430hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen/techinfo.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffler mounts |
Just out of curiosity, why are we not able to include attachments
(pictures, etc.) to mail sent to this list? It would be nice,
especially for those of us with no home page.
Ron Carroll
Original Firestar, FS-015
>I apologize for trying to send info via attachments to some of you
>regarding my mufflermount design so I had Christina (my copilot) add a
>"techinfo page" to our homepage that every one should be able to open
up
>directly by clicking on the hot link below.
>
>Frank Reynen MarkIII@430hrs
>
>http://www.webcom.com/reynen/techinfo.html
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
| Subject: | Discussion with potential Mark III owner |
In the spirit of sharing "off line" discussions that might be of value,
I'm posting this.
There was a reply that I'll also post with my comments.
I'm not sure if Peter has subscribed to the Kolb list, so anyone with
relevant additional comments or suggestions may want to explicitly copy
Peter.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: PETER_C_JAMES@hp-roseville-om3.om.hp.com
> [SMTP:PETER_C_JAMES@hp-roseville-om3.om.hp.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 19, 1998 7:02 PM
> To: Scott Bentley
> Subject: The Plane 2
>
>
> Mornin' Scott,
>
> Thanks for the reply. I have had several people recommend
the
> Kolb, so
> I wasn't really concerned. Like you, I had already figured
> that the
> more planes in the air, the more that come down.
>
> I had an uncle who was riding in a two seater. The pilot
> stalled the
> thing twice. The second time they missed power lines by 5
> feet when the
> plane rolled left. He thought the pilot knew what he was
> doing, turned
> out he didn't. Uncle Harold broke his leg.
>
> I really appreciate your comments on the 4 stroke engine. I
> have always
> been of the impression that it's better to have too much
power
> as
> opposed to too little. I had already decided that I would
> have a chute
> on my plane as well.
>
> ***
> Its not so much a question of power as reliability.
> ***
> The only thing stopping me from ordering the plane is my
wife.
> She says
> I can have one....I just have to sell my Harley! That's a
> pretty tough
> choice to make. We'll see as time progresses.
>
> I encourage you to put more pictures on your web page. Since
> I've never
> been around a project plane before it gave me a pretty good
> idea of what
> to expect and what kind of space would be required.
>
> Other curious information I'd appreciate:
>
> How many hours do you have on your plane?
> ***
> If I recall correctly, it took 300 hours of my time, and 200 hours of
> friends (several of which I met when I asked for local expert
> assistance.) It was mostly fun, and wouldn't take as long if I did
it
> again. I did get some assistance from the factory folks since I'm so
> close (they give everybody help, but for most its by phone, fax, and
> email.) I have a fairly accurate log, as you're supposed to do for
> the FAA registration.
> ***
> How often do you service/overhaul it?
> ***
> You need to inspect the plane once a year for the FAA. The engine
> needs an oil change every 100 hours, an overhaul after (I believe)
> 1200 hours. I've only flown it 42 hours, and changed the oil and
> filter after 20.
> ***
>
> How well does it haul 2 people? (A Mark III will carry 2
> won't it?)
> ***
> It absolutely carries two 200 pound people, but not much else (to
stay
> under registered gross weight.) This is one of the many reasons you
> need to register the plane and be a licensed pilot to fly it. That's
> the way I fly most of the time. Since the seating is two abreast, it
> is easier to communicate and point things out, though you still need
> and intercom and headphones since it is very noisy. It also leaves
> someone to take pictures, one of my favorite activities (see
> http://www.bentley.com/scott/stuartaerial11198/ - pictures my 8 year
> old took. He didn't do the focus right, but you get the idea.)
> ****
>
> You mentioned you are making an airfield. What is special
> about it
> other than a long flat space? I have a space picked out, but
> haven't
> considered much else besides the wind direction and the
> surface
> smoothness.
> ***
> Check with your local State Aviation regulatory agency. In
> Pennsylvania, it is a subsection of the department of transportation.
> PA requires, for a private field, a minimum of 1200 feet long and 100
> feet wide with (supposedly) a maximum 4% grade. You need a clear
> approach path from both ends with a 20 to 1 glide slope for 1500
feet,
> 100 feet wide at the runway and 300 feet wide at the far end (1500
> feet from the runway.)
>
> Surface smoothness can be fixed, trees (if you own them) can be cut
> down. Neighbors are the problem here - the township passed an
onerous
> ordinance and I fought the neighbors through 7 public hearings over
10
> months. If at all possible (should things be like here), get a state
> license and say nothing to local authorities.
> ***
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
| Subject: | More Discussion ... |
> You have raised several flags in my mind.
>
> -- I didn't realize you had to be a liscensed pilot to fly a mark III.
> I was
> under the impression that as long as you were flying alone (uh-huh!)
> you didn't
> have to be an official pilot.
>
***
See http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/WWW/ULTRA/ultraFAQ.html
particularly
http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/WWW/ULTRA/ultraFAQ.html#q9
Note thanks are due to Jon for his excellent web page.
***
> -- I also didn't consider the patch of land that I was going to fly
> off of as an
> "airfield." I more thought of it as "pasture" that happenend to have
> enough
> room to land and take off from.
>
> -- I have considered the "neighbors" to be an issue. Has this been
> the
> nightmare I think it could become? This one really has troubled my
> mind. I'm
> curious if people eventually come around....or if they just get more
> angry.
> Seems to me it would be a novelty at first...and later it would become
> an issue.
> I couldn't tell from your message if you were done fighting the
> system yet or
> not. Hope you won!
>
***
I'm flying out of the field now, and I think my "victory" will
eventually be total. Its a long and painful story, but the problem
really started with a zoning hearing where a bright orange sign was
posted which said, essentially, "Someone wants to put an airport in your
back yard. Please show up at this meeting if you care!" Of course
everyone within two miles or so cared...
If, on the other hand, you simply, legally (from a State
Aviation Authority standpoint,) take off and land occasionally, I think
no one will bother you. Most will assume they have no recourse anyway.
I expect the many people who made my strip development painful and
extremely expensive will, after they see what I'm actually doing, forget
they every complained.
In Pennsylvania, at least, the state Aviation authority was very
helpful. If there aren't many private airstrips (PA has over 400,)
there's less for them to do and therefore fewer jobs and promotions and
such.
***
> Thanks again for your help and insight!
>
> Pete
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator
> _________________________________
> Subject: RE: The Plane 2
> Author: Non-HP-Scott\.Bentley (Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com) at
> HP-Roseville/o2=mimegw4
> Date: 1/20/98 5:06 AM
>
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: PETER_C_JAMES@hp-roseville-om3.om.hp.com
> > [SMTP:PETER_C_JAMES@hp-roseville-om3.om.hp.com]
> > Sent: Monday, January 19, 1998 7:02 PM
> > To: Scott Bentley
> > Subject: The Plane 2
> >
> >
> > Mornin' Scott,
> >
> > Thanks for the reply. I have had several people recommend
> the
> > Kolb, so
> > I wasn't really concerned. Like you, I had already figured
> > that the
> > more planes in the air, the more that come down.
> >
> > I had an uncle who was riding in a two seater. The pilot
> > stalled the
> > thing twice. The second time they missed power lines by 5
> > feet when the
> > plane rolled left. He thought the pilot knew what he was
> > doing, turned
> > out he didn't. Uncle Harold broke his leg.
> >
> > I really appreciate your comments on the 4 stroke engine. I
>
> > have always
> > been of the impression that it's better to have too much
> power
> > as
> > opposed to too little. I had already decided that I would
> > have a chute
> > on my plane as well.
> >
> ***
> Its not so much a question of power as reliability.
> ***
> > The only thing stopping me from ordering the plane is my
> wife.
> > She says
> > I can have one....I just have to sell my Harley! That's a
> > pretty tough
> > choice to make. We'll see as time progresses.
> >
> > I encourage you to put more pictures on your web page.
> Since
> > I've never
> > been around a project plane before it gave me a pretty good
> > idea of what
> > to expect and what kind of space would be required.
> >
> > Other curious information I'd appreciate:
> >
> > How many hours do you have on your plane?
> ***
> If I recall correctly, it took 300 hours of my time, and 200
> hours of friends (several of which I met when I asked for local expert
>
> assistance.) It was mostly fun, and wouldn't take as long if I did it
>
> again. I did get some assistance from the factory folks since I'm so
> close (they give everybody help, but for most its by phone, fax, and
> email.) I have a fairly accurate log, as you're supposed to do for
> the
> FAA registration.
> ***
> > How often do you service/overhaul it?
> ***
> You need to inspect the plane once a year for the FAA. The
> engine needs an oil change every 100 hours, an overhaul after (I
> believe) 1200 hours. I've only flown it 42 hours, and changed the oil
>
> and filter after 20.
> ***
>
> > How well does it haul 2 people? (A Mark III will carry 2
> > won't it?)
> ***
> It absolutely carries two 200 pound people, but not much else
> (to stay under registered gross weight.) This is one of the many
> reasons
> you need to register the plane and be a licensed pilot to fly it.
> That's
> the way I fly most of the time. Since the seating is two abreast, it
> is
> easier to communicate and point things out, though you still need and
> intercom and headphones since it is very noisy. It also leaves
> someone
> to take pictures, one of my favorite activities (see
> http://www.bentley.com/scott/stuartaerial11198/ - pictures my 8 year
> old
> took. He didn't do the focus right, but you get the idea.)
> ****
> >
> > You mentioned you are making an airfield. What is special
> > about it
> > other than a long flat space? I have a space picked out,
> but
> > haven't
> > considered much else besides the wind direction and the
> > surface
> > smoothness.
> ***
> Check with your local State Aviation regulatory agency. In
> Pennsylvania, it is a subsection of the department of transportation.
> PA requires, for a private field, a minimum of 1200 feet long and 100
> feet wide with (supposedly) a maximum 4% grade. You need a clear
> approach path from both ends with a 20 to 1 glide slope for 1500 feet,
>
> 100 feet wide at the runway and 300 feet wide at the far end (1500
> feet
> from the runway.)
>
> Surface smoothness can be fixed, trees (if you own them) can
> be
> cut down. Neighbors are the problem here - the township passed an
> onerous ordinance and I fought the neighbors through 7 public hearings
>
> over 10 months. If at all possible (should things be like here), get
> a
> state license and say nothing to local authorities.
> ***
> >
> > If you think I ask too many questions...say the word and
> I'll
> > stop
> > bugging you!
> ***
> Not a problem. Do you mind if I post this to the KOLB list?
> Other may have additional comments.
> ***
> >
> > Thanks again!
> >
> > Pete << File: 1.txt >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Re[2]: Safety pins |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Jerry,
I've tried them both ways before I started using the spacers. They WILL
back out in either direction. You are right by doing it the way you were
taught only if the clevis is exposed to the airstream. The 5/16" mains
are not directly exposed and it is much easier to put the safety rings in
the pins if they are in the front. The other benefit that you get is a
peace of mind when you can look over your head, in flight, and actually
see how they're doing if you desire. The lower wing struts clevis pins
ARE exposed to the airstream, and they are inserted as you were correctly
taught. I failed to mention that yesterday. Thanks.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
On Tue, 20 Jan 98 19:14:54 cst jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com writes:
>This may or may not be a safety issue, but shouldn't the clevis
>pins be inserted so the head is facing the front thus if the clip
>should be left off, the natural tendency would be for it to work towards
>the rear thus stay in place. I was taught it was considered a no no to
put bolts >in with the head towards the rear for that reason. You don't
want them to work
>out.
>
>Just a thought
>
>Subject: Re: Safety pins
>Author: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
>Date: 1/20/98 12:36 PM
>
>
>Jim,
>
>The spacers are to keep the clevis pins from backing out under
>vibration with the very end of the pin next to the safety ring. You
probably
>could use washers if they have a 5/16" hole for the main, but you would
have
>to use quite a few of them and they have a tendency to get lost. Maybe
>carry a bunch with you or glue the number that you need, for each pin,
>together with epoxy.
>
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original FireStar
>
>
>
>
> writes:
>>Ralph: What are the spacers for? Could we use washers instead? Or
>>do they have to be 1/8" thick?
>>Thanks for all the great ideas, guys!
>>-
>-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Graphics attachments (was: Muffler mounts) |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>Just out of curiosity, why are we not able to include attachments
>(pictures, etc.) to mail sent to this list? It would be nice,
>especially for those of us with no home page.
>
>Ron Carroll
>Original Firestar, FS-015
>
I'm probably jumping in before asked again but the most likely reason for
forbidding attachments (especially graphics) is that it can really
bog-down the list server. Even a fairly small picture in 'jpeg' format
might be 25kb. That's equal (roughly) to about 10 or 12 screenfuls of
text (gee, I guess a picture really is worth a thousand words!). The
technology gets better all the time, that same 25kb 'jpeg' file is about
1/10th what it would be in 'bmp' or 'tiff' format (there can be a small
loss of clarity in the conversion tho').
Another problem is some cheapskates who use free e-mail services like
Juno that don't allow attachments at all! BTW - if anyone wants to send
me an attachment, you'll have to use my other free address:
froghair(at)mailexcite.com
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>
>
>This may sound like a good deal but do not use snowmobile pistons in
>aircraft engines. The guys giving instructions at my field seized
>pistons 3
>times. They were using new snowmobile pistons. I guess there is
>difference
>between material pistons are made of. More silicone or something in
>the
>aircraft pistons. How many times have you seen a snowmobile go to
>full
>power and stay there for 5-10 minutes? After they when to aircraft
>pistons
>they had no more seizures.
>
>Scott Olendorf
>Original Firestar with Rotax 377
>Schenectady, NY
>
Thanks Scott,
Sharing experiences helps us make educated decisions. A few local guys
have bought parts from Central and had no complaints. That's why I
ordered their catalog. The catalog says their pistons are "manufactured
to OEM specs." Clearly meaning they don't come from Rotax. I agree
everyone should consider if, when or where to use non-OEM parts.
I recently overhauled a 447 using only genuine Rotax parts but if I had
had the catalog at the time, I could have saved on some miscellaneous
things like gaskets and points (how does $4.95 for a set of points grab
ya?). Granted, these are important items but are fairly easy to inspect
for premature wear. Luckily, I wasn't needing new pistons but there is a
guy I know who has Wiseco pistons in a 503 on a Quicksilver MXL and has
had no problems although he only did the rebuild last summer and I don't
know how many hours he's put on it since. I'll quiz him next time I see
him and pass on the info.
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
For Attachments Use: froghair(at)mailexcite.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
Larry
all of the tiny tach that I have seen work just fine , hover on the hour
meter I had to put the full wave rectifier that KOLB tell us to BUT I
had to put a D / C cap. on top of that to get clean D /C voltage so the
hour meter would work at all R P M 's without it the meter will not
work
writes:
>> From: "Henry C. Wortman" <hwortman(at)mail.datasys.net>
>> To: rick106(at)juno.com
>> Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com
>> Subject: Tach's
>
>> Rick;
>> I assume you were talking about a analog tach. However this
>weekend I
>> installed a tiny tach on a 503 DCDI and noticed a tremendous
>difference
>> when checking the individual mags. Then it dawned on me that the
>pickup
>> was the wire wrapped around one ignition wire. Therefore only one
>mag
>> was being monitored. I assume that the other reading was reading
>the
>> field from the other mag ignition wire.
>>
>Hi:
>
>I just bought a Tiny Tach and haven't installed it yet. Does it work
>O.K. ? I wondered how accurate it is. Does the hour meter work O.K.
>? I read that the battery inside should last eight years.
>--
>Larry Davis
>Challenger II for sale at
>http://www.netusa1.net/~ldavis/batman.html
>
>ldavis@netusa1.net http://www.netusa1.net/~ldavis
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Graphics attachments (was: Muffler mounts) |
> forbidding attachments (especially graphics) is that it can really
> bog-down the list server. Even a fairly small picture in 'jpeg' format
> might be 25kb. That's equal (roughly) to about 10 or 12 screenfuls of
> text (gee, I guess a picture really is worth a thousand words!). The
>
I'm a little tentative about offering this, but if anybody wants
to get files to others you can use my ftp server. You could put
them on my server and tell the list to go grab whatever files.
I'm assuming this won't really be all that much in size or
quantity, and if it gets that way i would have to call it off.
But for now, to put files here do:
ftp mae.engr.ucdavis.edu
user: anonymous
password: your_email_addr
cd /pub/incoming/air
put FILE_NAME
To get files, do all the same except last line: get FILENAME
(If you use Netscape or Internet Explorer you could point to
ftp://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/pub/incoming/air
I will erase files in this directory approximately every 3 weeks.
Ok Rusty, now you can really get my boss on my case. :-)
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Segar <segarcts(at)qtm.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Trim tabs&ice |
----------
From: Cavuontop[SMTP:Cavuontop(at)aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 6:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Trim tabs&ice
<< inspected the carbs and both were iced up. >>
This is very interesting. Ice on the outside, or ice on the inside
preventing
the slides from moving?
On one carb it had ice on both sides,the other had ice on outside.It
looked real foggy that day,which I presume was the culpert of
theiceing.He
is flying Phantom with a 503 new this year.Iam unable to fly my Kolb
right now because of operation on right shoulder.Iam instaling 2.5 gal
tank in frount of 5 gal. tank.Not much to put a bigger tank in
there.Will use a elect. fuel pump to transfer to big tank.We are in the
proscess of designing a tank to fit between the wings.I made a proto
type and it will hold a little more than 5 gal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Davis" <ldavis(at)gatem02.netusa1.net> |
> To: ldavis(at)netusa1.net
> Cc: hwortman(at)mail.datasys.net, kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Re: Tach's
> From: rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT)
> Larry
> all of the tiny tach that I have seen work just fine , hover on the hour
> meter I had to put the full wave rectifier that KOLB tell us to BUT I
> had to put a D / C cap. on top of that to get clean D /C voltage so the
> hour meter would work at all R P M 's without it the meter will not
> work
Thanks for the reply, Rick. If you rectify, regulate, and filter
the input to the tach, how does it read the spark pulse for the tach?
Are you talking about the hour meter on the tach or a different
Hobbes meter? I'm confused.
--
Larry Davis
Challenger II for sale at
http://www.netusa1.net/~ldavis/batman.html
ldavis@netusa1.net http://www.netusa1.net/~ldavis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marino, Frank J (Youngstown ARB)" <Frank.Marino(at)yng.afres.af.mil> |
I have been thinking about buying altitude compensating carbs for my
582, these carbs automatically adjusts mixture as density altitude
changes which eliminates the need to change the main jets. The problem
is they cost $678 is it worth it. What do some of you Kolb fliers think.
I had a problem last year when I took of the temp was a little warm but
after an hour the outside temp dropped and I noticed the egt rise was
closed to the red line.I brought power back a little and it cooled down
a little and since then I have been thinking about the carbs.
FRANK J. MARINO
Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
Ron Carroll wrote:
>
> Just out of curiosity, why are we not able to include attachments
> (pictures, etc.) to mail sent to this list? It would be nice,
> especially for those of us with no home page.
>
> Ron Carroll
> Original Firestar, FS-015
Hi Ron:
Attachments such as pictures are binaries, and unlike the text portion
of the mail, they are usually large files. Some people have very slow
connections and retrieving several MB of pictures with your email client
can be become very annoying. Most mailing list administrators have
rules against them. This does not stop you from sending attachments to
individual list members with requested material.
Hope this answers your question,
Christina Reynen
Reynen & Uber Web Development
http://www.ubr.com/rey&ubr
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Frank: To HAC, or not to HAC,... |
I have appreciated the HAC system on my 582 very much. It has provided
proper mixture control in temps from 35 to 90 F, and altitudes from 900'
to 7500' MSL. I have checked the calibration twice, per the Rotax written
procedure, and it has not required any adjustment. I ordered it with the
engine when it was new. I don't really know what it added because I took
bids from four different suppliers for the entire package including the
Rotax dual radiators and 2.62 "C" box. Kolb Aircraft Co. came in with the
lowest bid, by a few hundred dollars.
It operates by lowering the pressure in the carb float chambers as the air
pressure drops. It gets a vacuum source from one of the two carbs, and meters
this vacuum source to the float chambers thru a needle in the body of the
HAC diaphram canister. I have no idea how it is also able to compensate
for changes in temperature.
It was shipped to me with two K&N filters, one of which was modified to
hold the HAC diaphram canister in a more vibration-free manner. What they
did was drill a 2" hole in the back of the filter, in the rubber housing part.
Then they drilled several more holes in it to screw on the canister clamp
and to get a static pressure tap source. This, to me, is a cobble-job.
It is so crowded back there that it makes inspection of the pressure, vacuum,
static and fuel lines difficult. The screws don't really hold in the rubber
of the filter very well after you've had it apart once either. And the clutter
makes carb adjustment (for idle) and inspection more challenging.
Another problem is that with the two air filters, it is tough to keep the
EGTs the same in all throttle settings and air speeds. I have been seeing
150 degrees F difference when descending at 65 mph. Someone on the list here
said they had a ""friend with a Challenger who swears that the two air cleaner
setup causes the uneven temps, with one filter receiving ram air and the
other getting turbulent air next to the prop, etc"".
In hopes of curing all the above-mentioned shortcomings of the HAC mounting
and the two air cleaner setup, I have purchased the Rotax (K&N) DUAL filter
(both carbs clamp to ONE filter). This should provide the same static
pressure level to both carb inlets. This filter is too small to mount the
HAC into though, so that must be redone also. I have finished that part
up now, and am very happy with the result. The HAC canister mounts ABOVE
the filter, still in a "vibe-free" manner. This makes hose routing a breeze
and they are all visible for inspection. The carbs themselves are also
more visible due to the smaller filter, for inspection, etc.
It probably weighs about the same as the original settup.
I am glad I have the HAC, but would have trouble finding $650 for it.
I think i have overcome the shortcomings of the original mounting method,
although it is yet un-tested. If the EGT numbers come together for me
I will be delighted with the whole thing. Knowing what I do now, if buying
it today, I would ask the supplier for the single filter and mount the HAC
in my own way.
HAC is a good idea, if you can afford it. I have also heard (somewhere?)
good things about the in-flight adjustable needle jet, that is done with a
cable from the cabin. Some Alaskan guy or company was selling it I think.
It is more work to operate, but I think it is much less $.
Good luck, from snowy MN,...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Marino, Frank J (Youngstown ARB) wrote:
>
> I have been thinking about buying altitude compensating carbs for my
> 582, these carbs automatically adjusts mixture as density altitude
> changes which eliminates the need to change the main jets. The problem
> is they cost $678 is it worth it. What do some of you Kolb fliers think.
> I had a problem last year when I took of the temp was a little warm but
> after an hour the outside temp dropped and I noticed the egt rise was
> closed to the red line.I brought power back a little and it cooled down
> a little and since then I have been thinking about the carbs.
>
> FRANK J. MARINO
> Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket, forget the altitude
compensating carbs!
I have a 377 Rotax that can operate in the heat of summer to the cold
of winter, in Wisconsin (read 10 to 100 degrees F), and up to 17,000 ASL
without changing jets. Why would a 582 be so much more difficult? If
altitude compensating carbs are really worth $678., how did I go from
1,000 ASL to 17,000 ASL without even changing jets or exceeding
temperature limits. What problem are they fixing?
But then, this is only MY opinion or my 2 cents worth.
John Jung
377 Firestar (Flying high and For Sale)
503 Firestar II (soon to be inspected)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MJWAY <MJWAY(at)aol.com> |
A few days back I asked for input regarding piston type primers which did not
leak after a few months. The 447 on my FireFly has only a single carburetor
and have decided that for at least the short term to blow prime the engine.
I have a separate piece of vent tube connected to each of the two vent ports.
Normally they are stuck between the outer wall of the float chamber and its
retaining clip. To prime I seal the end of one tube with a finger tip and
blow into the other tube. This over pressures the air above the gas in the
float chamber and drives gas up through the jet. I can clearly hear the gas
spraying into the carburetor. This leaves no doubt about the priming being
accomplished. With the piston type primer on the Hurricane I used to fly I
often did not know how much priming was being accomplished vs how much air in
the priming line to the carb was being pushed in.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Trim tabs&ice |
>
>
>----------
>From: Cavuontop[SMTP:Cavuontop(at)aol.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 6:00 PM
>To: segarcts(at)qtm.net
>Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com
>Subject: Re: Trim tabs&ice
>
>
><< inspected the carbs and both were iced up. >>
>This is very interesting. Ice on the outside, or ice on the inside
preventing
>the slides from moving?
>-
>
>On one carb it had ice on both sides,the other had ice on outside.It
looked real foggy that day,which I presume was the culpert of theiceing.He
>is flying Phantom with a 503 new this year.Iam unable to fly my Kolb right
now because of operation on right shoulder.Iam instaling 2.5 gal tank in
frount of 5 gal. tank.Not much to put a bigger tank in there.Will use a
elect. fuel pump to transfer to big tank.We are in the proscess of
designing a tank to fit between the wings.I made a proto type and it will
hold a little more than 5 gal.
>
>
As part of several mods I am doing on the MKIII, have fabricated a fuel
tank to fit between the wings where the gap cover used to go, behind the
main spar carrythrough. It holds 12.5 gallons, and will feed to a 2.5
gallon hopper tank that will be just behind the passenger seat.
This will free up the former gas tank area to be used as a cargo area for
the Oshkosh expedition next summer.
Will post some pictures and a how-to after it is done.(and if it works)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | primers/fuel pumps |
Have seen several postings about primers lately, which one's don't leak,
etc. If the float bowl is full, why use a primer?
Suggest you spend the money on one of the $32 Facet electric fuel pumps
instead. The current setup I have with a 532 and electric pump has been a
very easy starting Rotax, turn the pump on, let the pressure come up, pull
the chokes, and crank it over. It hits right off every time, and you have a
back up fuel pump to boot if the stock one ever dies.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Important Message |
FYI--Please note suspense date to FCC.Please pass info on as I don;t think
the telephone companies will take out full page ads to inform us they want
to add additional charges to our telephone Bills.Lindy in LA(Lower Alabama)
-----Original Message-----
From: CHerr23763 <CHerr23763(at)aol.com>
; Nanwells(at)aol.com ; Msleilag(at)aol.com
; Veolsen(at)aol.com ; BBarano972(at)aol.com
; R.DUFF(at)POST.OFFICE.WORLDNET.ATT.NET
; JohnRBoyd(at)msn.com
; MaryNDaveW(at)aol.com ;
falcon(at)digitalexp.com ; vettnut(at)cybertron.com
; hawg5(at)surfsouth.com ;
RRLeaverton(at)compuserve.com ;
ed.kristie.olsen(at)iname.com ; Puiltzer(at)aol.com
; Keefepffwb(at)aol.com ;
hgwm02c(at)prodigy.com ; elosmond(at)juno.com
; Winslowgra(at)aol.com ;
gulledge(at)amhrt.org ; warrenet(at)juno.com
; Lindy(at)Snowhill.com
Date: Monday, January 19, 1998 10:54 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Important Message
>To All friends and family:
>
>We received the following message from someone who received it from another
>person. I thought you might be interested. I have already e-mailed my
>answer.
>
>Subject: FW:FCC Interference
>
>You all may want to get onboard with this item.
>
>Your local telephone company has filed a proposal with the FCC to impose
per
>minute charges for your Internet service, as they do in Europe. They
contend
>that your usage has or will hinder the operation of the telephone network.
It
>is our belief that internet usage will diminish if users were required to
pay
>additional per minute charges. Europe has far less internet usage because
of
>the dampening effect of per minute charges.
>
>The FCC has created an email box for your comments. Responses must be
>received by the FCC by February 13, 1998. Send your comments to:
isp(at)fcc.gov
>and tell them what you think. Every phone company is in on this one, and
they
>are trying to sneak it in just under the wire for passage. Let everyone
you
>know hear this one. Get the e-mail address to everyone you can think of.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Davis <ldavis(at)netusa1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: primers/fuel pumps |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> Have seen several postings about primers lately, which one's don't leak,
> etc. If the float bowl is full, why use a primer?
> Suggest you spend the money on one of the $32 Facet electric fuel pumps
> instead. The current setup I have with a 532 and electric pump has been a
> very easy starting Rotax, turn the pump on, let the pressure come up, pull
> the chokes, and crank it over. It hits right off every time, and you have a
> back up fuel pump to boot if the stock one ever dies.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>
Richard:
I think the story was: Here in the cold North we need all the help we
can get to start cold engines, thus the primer. I'm in the process of
adding a carb primer kit (LEAF $18.95) and a Facet electric fuel
pump(AIRCRAFT SPRUCE $28.95). You can buy the primer cheaper but this
unit is a nice one. LEAF and CPS want $38.95 for the Facet pump. I
don't know why AIRCRAFT SPRUCE is $10.00 cheaper! Anyway, did you add
the Facet pump in parallel with the manual pump? Do you use the same
pickup in the tank for both? How about fuel filters? Two, or do you
use the same one? I just installed a bronze mesh pickup filter in my
tank last night and a fuel gauge sender. A real bear to seal the
sender! Please let me know how you guys/gals installed these things as
I'm in the process.
Thanks,
--
Larry Davis
"I don't know but I've been told"
ldavis(at)netusa1.net
http://www.netusa1.net/~ldavis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | UL DAD <ULDAD(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blow Priming |
I don't know about your primer problem ( I use the enricher) but several years
ago Bing (Rotax?) switched from using the two individual vent tubes to one
tube (new/improved w/vent holes) connecting the two vents together. It's
shown in the LEAF catalog in the Bing 36mm breakdown. Might be something you
need to do.
Bill Griffin
447 FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
| Subject: | Re[2]: Wing Fuel Tanks |
While building I had joked about putting tubes of large diameter PVC
pipe in the wing spar tubes (once their drilled) as Aux fuel tanks.
Any comments:
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: RE: Trim tabs&ice
Date: 1/22/98 6:15 AM
----------
From: Cavuontop[SMTP:Cavuontop(at)aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 1998 6:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Trim tabs&ice
<< inspected the carbs and both were iced up. >>
This is very interesting. Ice on the outside, or ice on the inside preventing
the slides from moving?
On one carb it had ice on both sides,the other had ice on outside.It looked
real foggy that day,which I presume was the culpert of theiceing.He
is flying Phantom with a 503 new this year.Iam unable to fly my Kolb right now
because of operation on right shoulder.Iam instaling 2.5 gal tank in frount of
5
gal. tank.Not much to put a bigger tank in there.Will use a elect. fuel pump to
transfer to big tank.We are in the proscess of designing a tank to fit between
the wings.I made a proto type and it will hold a little more than 5 gal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Important Message |
What's exactly going on can be found at this URL:
http://www.fcc.gov/Bureaus/Common_Carrier/Factsheets/ispfact.html .
Chris Reynen
>
> FYI--Please note suspense date to FCC.Please pass info on as I don;t
think
> the telephone companies will take out full page ads to inform us they
want
> to add additional charges to our telephone Bills.Lindy in LA(Lower
Alabama)
> -----Original Message-----
>
> >To All friends and family:
> >
> >We received the following message from someone who received it from
> another
> >person. I thought you might be interested. I have already e-mailed my
> >answer.
> >
> >Subject: FW:FCC Interference
> >
> >You all may want to get onboard with this item.
> >
> >Your local telephone company has filed a proposal with the FCC to impose
> per
> >minute charges for your Internet service, as they do in Europe. They
> contend
> >that your usage has or will hinder the operation of the telephone
network.
> It
> >is our belief that internet usage will diminish if users were required
to
> pay
> >additional per minute charges. Europe has far less internet usage
because
> of
> >the dampening effect of per minute charges.
> >
> >The FCC has created an email box for your comments. Responses must be
> >received by the FCC by February 13, 1998. Send your comments to:
> isp(at)fcc.gov
> >and tell them what you think. Every phone company is in on this one,
and
> they
> >are trying to sneak it in just under the wire for passage. Let everyone
> you
> >know hear this one. Get the e-mail address to everyone you can think
of.
> >
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Hinkelmann <whink(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re[2]: Safety pins |
At 07:14 PM 1/20/98 cst, jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> This may or may not be a safety issue, but shouldn't the clevis pins
> be inserted so the head is facing the front thus if the clip should be
> left off, the natural tendency would be for it to work towards the
> rear thus stay in place.
>
> I was taught it was considered a no no to put bolts in with the head
> towards the rear for that reason. You don't want them to work out.
>
>Guess you havent read Chuck Yegars Book. In short - there is no up or
down in an airplane. You have + and - G's up, down, front and back. Seems
there was a guy putting bolts with the nut at the bottom when the drawings
called for the nut to be on top. Nasty thing was it would bind the
ailerons killed a few pilots, Chuck was lucky.
_____________________
William Hinkelmann
whink(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
>Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 19:43:47 -0600
>To: "Marino, Frank J (Youngstown ARB)"
>From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
>Subject: Re: CARBURETORS
>
>>I have been thinking about buying altitude compensating carbs for my
>>582, these carbs automatically adjusts mixture as density altitude
>>changes which eliminates the need to change the main jets. The problem
>>is they cost $678 is it worth it. What do some of you Kolb fliers think.
>>I had a problem last year when I took of the temp was a little warm but
>>after an hour the outside temp dropped and I noticed the egt rise was
>>closed to the red line.I brought power back a little and it cooled down
>>a little and since then I have been thinking about the carbs.
>
>Frank and all,
>
>This really has nothing to do with Frank's post... It just brought to mind
that I have noticed some differences in summer/winter flying (really not
much here in Texas like up north) that I thought I would throw out to the
group regarding some variances in EGT readings.
>
>You guys correct me if I am wrong, but with all the talk about the EGT
readings... is not the instrument calibrated to be correct at 70 or so
degrees F. When the temp drops the differential will be greater and vice
versa. So if you are flying at say 40 degrees you have to discount downward
your EGT instrument reading by 30 degrees to obtain the actual EGT temp of
the engine. Besides whatever else is happening with the engine due to
factors like temp drop, altitude, etc, etc... don't you consider this
difference in apparant readings vs. actual in the determination of selecting
jets and notch positions?
>
>Later,
>
>
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (37.3 hrs)
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re[2]: Wing Fuel Tanks |
At 04:12 PM 1/23/98 cst, you wrote:
>
> While building I had joked about putting tubes of large diameter PVC
> pipe in the wing spar tubes (once their drilled) as Aux fuel tanks.
>
> Any comments:
>
> Yeah, use lots of sealer where the lift strut bolts go thru...
Actually , if you could figure out a way to pad them from all the rivits,
and just made them from the root rib to the lift strut bolt, it is probably
a good idea. The formula for the volume of a cylinder is Volume
pi x radius squared x height. If you used a 5" pipe 72" long, that is 1472
cubic inches a side. One gallon of gas takes up 231 cubic inches, or just
over 6 gallons a side. Not bad. Let us know how it works.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P(42oldpoops)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Trim tabs&ice |
.afres.af.mil>
>Old poops, I have a question for you, since your doing these mods on
>your MKIII and I'am doing some mods on my MKIII (putting in dual
>controls) I was wondering if you have to get the FAA to inspect the
>aircraft again. What do you think sure would be a pain in the a-- if you
>have to have another inspection every time you mod something.
>
>
>FRANK J. MARINO
>Chief Loadmaster 773 AS
>
>
>>
>>-
>>
>>
>
You are not required to get it reinspected after a modification if you
have your Repairman Certificate-A/C Builder. Then you just sign it off your
self as a logbook entry. If it is a mod that would likely affect the flying
qualities of the a/c, then you would have to talk to the DAR, and have
him/her assign you a new flight test period to prove that the a/c was still
airworthy. For instance, if you added floats, clipped the wings, raised the
gross weight, changed the airfoil, went from one to two seats, etc.
Normally, this is only ten hours, unless it is something really radical.
This is also required if you change props, or engines.
If it is none of the above catagories, it only requires a logbook entry
and your signature before the flight, and normally another entry after the
"test flight" stating that the a/c performs normally.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
Technical Counselor EAA 442
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: primers/fuel pumps |
>Richard Pike wrote:
>>
>> Have seen several postings about primers lately, which one's
don't leak,
>> etc. If the float bowl is full, why use a primer?
>> Suggest you spend the money on one of the $32 Facet electric
fuel pumps
>> instead. The current setup I have with a 532 and electric pump has been a
>> very easy starting Rotax, turn the pump on, let the pressure come up, pull
>> the chokes, and crank it over. It hits right off every time, and you have a
>> back up fuel pump to boot if the stock one ever dies.
>>
>> Richard Pike
>> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>>
>Richard:
>
>I think the story was: Here in the cold North we need all the help we
>can get to start cold engines, thus the primer. I'm in the process of
>adding a carb primer kit (LEAF $18.95) and a Facet electric fuel
>pump(AIRCRAFT SPRUCE $28.95). You can buy the primer cheaper but this
>unit is a nice one. LEAF and CPS want $38.95 for the Facet pump. I
>don't know why AIRCRAFT SPRUCE is $10.00 cheaper! Anyway, did you add
>the Facet pump in parallel with the manual pump? Do you use the same
>pickup in the tank for both? How about fuel filters? Two, or do you
>use the same one? I just installed a bronze mesh pickup filter in my
>tank last night and a fuel gauge sender. A real bear to seal the
>sender! Please let me know how you guys/gals installed these things as
>I'm in the process.
>
> The Facet is in parallel, one pickup, split the line to both pumps,rejoin
the line, pressure regulator, then split the line to the carbs. I am using
a sight gauge so there is no electrics involved. There will be two pickups
in the main tank, and each one will have a finger strainer, and one pickup
in the hopper tank, with a finger strainer, then a gascolator/filter just
outside the hopper tank.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re[2]: Safety pins |
>At 07:14 PM 1/20/98 cst, jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
>> This may or may not be a safety issue, but shouldn't the clevis pins
>> be inserted so the head is facing the front thus if the clip should be
>> left off, the natural tendency would be for it to work towards the
>> rear thus stay in place.
>>
>> I was taught it was considered a no no to put bolts in with the head
>> towards the rear for that reason. You don't want them to work out.
>>
>>Guess you havent read Chuck Yegars Book. In short - there is no up or
>down in an airplane. You have + and - G's up, down, front and back. Seems
>there was a guy putting bolts with the nut at the bottom when the drawings
>called for the nut to be on top. Nasty thing was it would bind the
>ailerons killed a few pilots, Chuck was lucky.
>
>
>
>_____________________
>William Hinkelmann
>whink(at)mindspring.com
>-
>If the drawings call fot the nut to be at the top, put it it on the top.
In a situation where the designer doesn't specify, I refer you to Tony
Bingelis' book "Sportplane Construction Techniques" page 23 " Generally
speaking, bolts are installed with the head up or with the head facing the
slipstream...However in some installations, it matters little how the bolt
is inserted. If the nut comes off, the assembly will fall off."
Yeager is a general, but Bingelis is a long time technical writer for the
EAA, and builds a LOT of airplanes...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Blow Priming |
>A few days back I asked for input regarding piston type primers which did not
>leak after a few months. The 447 on my FireFly has only a single carburetor
>and have decided that for at least the short term to blow prime the engine.
>I have a separate piece of vent tube connected to each of the two vent ports.
>Normally they are stuck between the outer wall of the float chamber and its
>retaining clip. To prime I seal the end of one tube with a finger tip and
>blow into the other tube. This over pressures the air above the gas in the
>float chamber and drives gas up through the jet. I can clearly hear the gas
>spraying into the carburetor. This leaves no doubt about the priming being
>accomplished. With the piston type primer on the Hurricane I used to fly I
>often did not know how much priming was being accomplished vs how much air in
>the priming line to the carb was being pushed in.
MJ: This sounds terrific to me and I can't wait to try it. I've heard
the benefits of an intake primer over a choke, altho i fully recognize
that a cockpit accessible choke is also required equipment. MJ's idea
seems to be light enf (nothin) and inexpensive enf (nothin) and easy enf
to install (nothin), that it seems PERFECT to me. Where's the catch? And
if anybody says it's tasting gas while you prime, that doesn't count. :-)
I also see Richard's post about:
>> Have seen several postings about primers lately, which one's don't leak,
>>etc. If the float bowl is full, why use a primer?
and i think we're on two different subjects (at least), right? MJ is talking
about priming the engine intake for cold starts (sometimes better than choke
circuit), but you still need a primer bulb or electric fuel pump to get
gas into the carb float bowl after a few hours of not running the engine.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
>>
>>You guys correct me if I am wrong, but with all the talk about the EGT
>readings... is not the instrument calibrated to be correct at 70 or so
>degrees F. When the temp drops the differential will be greater and vice
>versa. So if you are flying at say 40 degrees you have to discount downward
>your EGT instrument reading by 30 degrees to obtain the actual EGT temp of
>the engine. Besides whatever else is happening with the engine due to
>factors like temp drop, altitude, etc, etc... don't you consider this
>difference in apparant readings vs. actual in the determination of selecting
>jets and notch positions?
This calibration error is not real large but something to be aware of.
I happen to have the little sheet that defines it as I am changing from
single EGT probe to dual, and I just received my a new EGT guage. The
data sheet (Westach) SAYS:
"for COLD JUNCTION temps LOWER than 75 degrees, the indicator will read
one degree HIGH for each degree below 75 degrees." E.G. at 32 deg, a 1000
deg reading would really mean EGT is 957 degrees. (1000-(75-32))
The practical side of this is generally a calibration error in our favor.
For example if we change from summer to winter flying without changing jets,
we will be leaner, but the EGT will show us artificially lean readings which
should tend to make us take notice and do something. Going from winter to
summer without re-jetting aint so bad anyway, cuz we go richer in the thinner
air anyway.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote:
>You guys correct me if I am wrong, but with all the talk about the EGT
> readings... is not the instrument calibrated to be correct at 70 or so
> degrees F. When the temp drops the differential will be greater and vice
> versa. So if you are flying at say 40 degrees you have to discount downward
> your EGT instrument reading by 30 degrees to obtain the actual EGT temp of
> the engine. Besides whatever else is happening with the engine due to
> factors like temp drop, altitude, etc, etc... don't you consider this
> difference in apparant readings vs. actual in the determination of selecting
> jets and notch positions?
>
Cliff,
You are correct and it is a very good point. I wish that I had
thought of it first.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
This is exactly why I don't bother changing jets from summer to winter. I
just ain't as good as expressing it as Ben does. The only thing I can add
to this is the mixture in the winter will also richen with altitude (we
are 1500 ft above sea level), and especially in an inversion (warmer air
aloft) which frequently occurs here in the winter. BTW, on a cold day
similar to last Sunday when I was testing out my new skis, it was 16 deg
on the ground and I definitely got higher EGT readings on takeoff than I
normally do. I have a digital thermometer right next to my EGT gauge so I
know what to expect. If I saw those higher readings on climbout in the
summer, I would have a real need for concern.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar in Minnesota
writes:
>>>
>The practical side of this is generally a calibration error in our
>favor. For example if we change from summer to winter flying without
changing
>jets, we will be leaner, but the EGT will show us artificially lean
readings
>which should tend to make us take notice and do something. Going from
>winter to summer without re-jetting aint so bad anyway, cuz we go richer
in the
>thinner air anyway.
>-Ben Ransom
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
<< I need some input, or reassurance which ever applies. My partner
decarboned my engine for me. It was really gunky and he damaged one of
the rings in the process. The old rings did not appear to have "seated",
they were not contacting the cylinder walls much at all and to us did not
appear to ever have. I got the unit after it was "run in" according to
rotax recommendations. Do I really need to go through all that again? I
realize that I have a tendency toward instant gratification, ( I do fight
it) but I really liked the statement the other day-" build fast- fly
soon".
Larry >>
Larry, I relate and merely say of your truthful dialog.....bless you....your
friend GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
<< Any chance of flying it in under the powerlines? Sounds sort of scarry
but I have had an experience where I wish I would have taken the LOW road,
opposed to the HIGH road over and stall at the top.
_____________________
William Hinkelmann >>
Not for me...I have the high power lines on the far side of the road and the
low telephone lines on the field side of the field....but I appreciate your
comment which is the reason I always land at 50mph....GeoR38 the glider pilot!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb...How cold is it? |
<< As for engine performance, the Rotax 447 charts show almost 9HP difference
between 4000 and 4800 rpm (~19-28HP), probably at standard conditions. I
guess i still feel compelled to figure out how much more fuel-air is in
the cylinders in winter vs summer in MN.
-Ben "learning almost enf to be dangerous" Ransom
>>
Thanks for the learnin..."learnin" I know the feeling about the dangerous
part! GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Rick: Put a drop of silicone sealant on your safety pins. That should
eliminate any of them slopping out. >>
Rick...where do you put this slow drying stuff?? what part ot the pin?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com> |
<< Wire safety rings are tough to remove, even when you want to remove
them. Impossible to 'slop out'.
>>
not if they are slightly bent!! take care! GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb Flying Stories |
Old Salts,
Some of you guys who have flown Kolbs for hundreds of hours surely have some
tales (hanger flying type) to tell... interesting flights, interesting places.
Come on and share with us some stories on these bleak winter days. One of
our California "bush pilots" and some others have done so already. Brighten
our day.
Eager to hear,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (37.3 hrs)
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
>This is exactly why I don't bother changing jets from summer to winter. I
>just ain't as good as expressing it as Ben does. The only thing I can add
>to this is the mixture in the winter will also richen with altitude (we
>are 1500 ft above sea level), and especially in an inversion (warmer air
well thanks for the compliment on my gooder expressing. Actually it seemed
like quite a mouthful, but that seems to be my norm. :-/
i can't figure how you in MN get away without changing jets -- also i think
John Jung said he didn't either. I fret over my jetting like an old
finicky woman, and seem to change either main or midrange if the average
outside temperature is different by about 40 degrees. Of course this
fretting is partly what got me in trouble 3 weeks ago when i changed
the wrong direction.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>... I fret over my jetting like an old
>finicky woman, and seem to change either main or midrange if the
>average
>outside temperature is different by about 40 degrees. Of course this
>fretting is partly what got me in trouble 3 weeks ago when i changed
>the wrong direction.
>-Ben Ransom
>-
Ben,
Don't feel bad, I'll snitch a little on a good friend who happens to be
an engineer for a major airline and an all-around "smart-feller". He
flies a Wizard with a Kawasaki 440 from his home about 8 miles north of
my field and has raised proper jetting to a high science. Granted, the
Kawasaki with a Mikuni carb may be a little more finicky than a Rotax but
I've actually seen him re-jet after making the (8 mile) trip to our
field, go fly a short 'sortie' or two with us and then re-jet again for
the trip home. This is not done to chase some unknown problem, but is a
purposeful act to achieve a desired result, he knows absolutely what size
jet should be used for the intended flight and current conditions! Maybe
the rest of us are just being reckless, but mostly we re-jet in spring
and again in the fall, if we don't forget! :-)
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
For Attachments Use: froghair(at)mailexcite.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Flying Stories |
I second that motion! I'll be in the Kolb for the 1st time before too
much longer and would really appreciate anything relating to what I can
expect.
Ron Carroll
Original Firestar, FS-015
>Old Salts,
>
>Some of you guys who have flown Kolbs for hundreds of hours surely have
some
>tales (hanger flying type) to tell... interesting flights, interesting
places.
>
>Come on and share with us some stories on these bleak winter days. One
of
>our California "bush pilots" and some others have done so already.
Brighten
>our day.
>
>Eager to hear,
>
>--
>Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (37.3 hrs)
>(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
> Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
>
> ____________________|_____________________
> ___(+^+)___
> (_)
> 8 8
>
>
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Geo, don't 'slightly bend' them.
Ron ;-)
writes:
>
><< Wire safety rings are tough to remove, even when you want to remove
> them. Impossible to 'slop out'.
> >>
>not if they are slightly bent!! take care! GeoR38
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
Latest info on Super Bowl.LA Lindy
-----Original Message-----
From: azchuck(at)juno.com <azchuck(at)juno.com>
; pjofaz(at)theriver.com ;
zcofaz(at)juno.com ; keystone9(at)juno.com ;
rjfurlong(at)juno.com ; kingoffl(at)juno.com
; fspiers(at)compuserve.com ;
rephil-az(at)juno.com ; 10577.2272(at)compuserve.com
<10577.2272(at)compuserve.com>; toto(at)aloha.net ;
dalton(at)seacoast.com ; eastmalibu(at)aol.com
; denisti(at)aol.com ; shaemuski(at)juno.com
; PHS1947(at)aol.com ; jwilroy(at)juno.com
; gswedel(at)path.org ; spauldin(at)home.com
; ldschaeff(at)aol.com ;
crash84(at)erols.com ; 104061.2335(at)compuserve.com
<104061.2335(at)compuserve.com>; rhoadesb(at)hqasc.army.mil
; bobrfr(at)aol.com ; platzj(at)aol.com
; bpetty(at)itexas.net ; sappapl(at)aol.com
; mjoleary(at)juno.com ; mgmetz(at)prodigy.net
; klmccaff(at)wco.com ;
102504.3636(at)compuserve.com <102504.3636(at)compuserve.com>; manolas(at)c2i2.com
; smackay(at)epix.net ; lindy(at)snowhill.com
; labere1(at)juno.com ;
bettyklein(at)juno.com
Date: Saturday, January 24, 1998 12:03 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Packer Fans
>--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
>From: shaemusk
>
>
> Application to become a Green Bay Packer Fan
>
> Name:______________
>
> CB Handle:___________
>
> Neck shade:
> _____Light Red
> _____Medium Red
> _____Dark Red
>
> Number of teeth in exposed full grin: (Neither can exceed 3)
> Upper______
> Lower______
>
> Mobile home color:
> ______Two-tone, brown & white
> ______Two-tone pink & white
> ______ Faded green
>
> Model of Pickup Truck:____________
> Size of Tires:__________________
> Length of right leg:______________
> Length of left leg:_______________
>
> Note: To be accepted, you must be honest and you must be able to
>check at least 20 items from the questions below.
>
> Note that good Packer fans can sometimes check many answers for
>some of the questions.
>
> 1. I am in love with:
> ___My sister
> ___My brother
> ___Both of them
>
> 2. My favorite music:
> ____Country
> ____Western
> ____Anything played on the accordian
>
> 3. My favorite meal:
> ____Head cheese & Old Milwaukee
> ____Venison sausage and Old Milwaukee
> ____Cheese curds and Old Milwaukee
>
> 4. Preferred weapon:
> ___12 Gauge
> ____Tire Iron
> ____Forehead
> ____Chain Saw
> ____ Ice Auger
>
> 5. Primary auto:
> ____'67 Ford Galaxy
> ____'67 Ford Galaxy with transmission
> ____'67 Ford Galaxy with '73 Impala Tranny
> ____'67 Ford Galaxy w/ '73 Impala Tranny and
> '71 Buick Wagon Engine
>
> 6. I usually greet people by saying:
> ___Ya hey dare
> ___Dem Packers is playing like a bunch a old women
> ___Dey should take da whole bunch a dem der madison liberals
> and just lineem up and shootem
>
> 7. I can count to:
> 10__
> 20__ If I take me boots off
> 21__ If i'm neked!
>
> 8. I bought part of the "frozen Tundra"
> ___Yes
> ___ No... but I wish I woulda
>
> 9. Favorite Reading:
> ___Fishin Facts
> ___Beer bottle labels
> ___Guns and Ammo
> ___Today's Mercenary
> ___Polka DIgest
>
> 10. Things in my front yard:
> ____Various kitchen appliances
> ____Car on blocks
> ____Transmissions
> ___Deer hanging from tree limb ( in season)
> ___Deer hanging from tree limb ( out of season)
>
> 11. I mostly wear:
> ___Polyester pants w/ snags
> ___Polyester pants w/ holes
> ___Green Bay belt Buckle
>
> 12. My favorite colors are:
> ___Green
> ___Gold
> ___I'm color blind.....except when I got me beer goggles on!!
>
> 13. The most memorable event I ever attended was:
> ___Minoqua Moose Call competition
> ___Omega Outboard motor repair finals
> ___Lake Tomahwk Crew cut championships
>
> 14. Favorite entertainment:
> ___Fishin while drinkin
> ___Snowmobilin while drinkin
> ___Watching Green Acres while Drinkin
>
> 15. Pick one:
> ___ Someone is helping me read this
> ___ Someone is reading this for me.
>
> 16. Favorite phraze:
> ___ "Gollee jeez."
> ___ "Ya d-o-n't seh?" ("You don't say?")
> ___ "Ya betcha."
> ___ "Okee-dohkee."
>
>
> --------- End forwarded message ----------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Ron and all,
>I'll be in the Kolb for the 1st time before too
>much longer and would really appreciate anything relating to what I can
>expect.
Try to get some Kolb dual if only a couple or so of hours. It will be
invaluable to you - the best insurance you will ever buy.
Be aware of the overthrust of the engine (not a big deal) - smooth throttle
inputs won't get you into trouble.
In the MKIII, the elevators will be really sensitive and light... I tended
to really over control at first and still do some.
Find out your near or actual stall indicated speed before your first
landing. Your ASI might be very off. Mine reads about 8-10 mph too high.
Carry some extra speed on approach. It bleeds off pretty fast in the flair.
Don't know how you will approach your first flight. Taxi, taxi faster,
hippity hop, runway flights, then go for it... or just go for it. My
approach was the former, mostly because I was trying to feel out the flying
speed and because I am low time, expecially in tail draggers and too chicken
to just "blast off". I also practiced working the plane down to the ground
and touch, touch, touch in several flybys after checking stall speed and
keeping adequate flying speed before my first landing. I started out doing
wheel landings but have since sort of transitioned to and prefer slower
three point (unless there is a strong cross wind). Then I will revert to
the low wing into the wind wheel landing. Wheel landings require a lot more
roll out control and can be tricky if you are not attentive to the rudder
and ailerons if in a cross wind.
The Kolb doesn't really forward slip. It has powerful flaps for descent so
no need (don't use on takeoff) - meaning more drag than lift in the MKIII in
my opinion. The Kolb people suggest not using any flaps (especially on
landing) until you become very familiar with the plane.
MKIII's ailerons are very heavy compared to the elevators.
Install a slip string as all Kolbs seem to fly cocked sideways in a yaw just
about as well as rudder trimmed for straight ahead.
Get used to the flying attitude of the cockpit front view. It is a lot
different (nose down) than when you are sitting in it on the ground. ...and
BTW, what a beautiful view over the nose or to either side.
I recommend marking your ASI asap for speeds important to you - never
exceed, pattern and approach, stall or other. ...and strip the other
instruments (green,yellow,red) so you can scan quickly.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (37.3 hrs)
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Ben and others,
When I look at the Bing main jet conversion chart I first define the
temperature extremes from summer to winter that I will flying. Looking at
the chart, I determine them to be from +20 (winter) to +86 (summer in
Minnesota on the ground). Then I consider the altitude above sea level
that most of my flying will be performed. This appears to be between
~1500 and 3500 ft. My nominal main jet size is a 165 for a single carb
fan-cooled Rotax 377. Doing the calculations on the chart, this works
out to be:
Winter: +20 deg - jet size 162 to 165
Summer: +86 deg - jet size 157 to 160
According to the chart, from summer to winter, the span of main jet sizes
will range from 160 to 165 for the temperatures and altitudes that I fly.
Now that +86 deg in the summer would be temperatures "on the ground" and
not at altitude. So lets consider +76 deg as a more suitable flying temp
(because one would very seldom see +86 deg at 2000 ft). This raises the
range a couple of sizes. (In winter, the temps will sometimes increase at
altitude usually due to an inversion.) Now the range from summer to
winter is even closer!
I used to change my jetting until I took a closer look at this chart and
talked to guy who had hundreds of hours on his engine (same as mine) and
asked him what he was doing right, since he never had any engine
problems. He didn't change jets either! The way it looks now, I'm
running slightly rich in the summer, but I feel the richer mixture will
cool the engine better.
I hope this helps explain why I don't change the jetting anymore. BTW,
for the benefit of those newcomers, I have 370 air hours on my 377 (the
actual TT is well over 400 hrs) and I've been flying my FireStar for 11
years.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar in Minnesota
>>This is exactly why I don't bother changing jets from summer to
>winter. I just ain't as good as expressing it as Ben does. The only
thing I can
>add to this is the mixture in the winter will also richen with altitude
>(we are 1500 ft above sea level), and especially in an inversion (warmer
air
>
writes:
>well thanks for the compliment on my gooder expressing. Actually it
>seemed like quite a mouthful, but that seems to be my norm. :-/
>i can't figure how you in MN get away without changing jets -- also i
>think John Jung said he didn't either. I fret over my jetting like an
old
>finicky woman, and seem to change either main or midrange if the average
>outside temperature is different by about 40 degrees. Of course this
>fretting is partly what got me in trouble 3 weeks ago when i changed
>the wrong direction.
>-Ben Ransom
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henry C. Wortman" <hwortman(at)mail.datasys.net> |
Me thinks the discussion about safety pins is confused by a lack of
communication and definition of the pins in question. Lets define each
pin and then see if we can bring some order to this discussion.
Clevis pin: A round pin similar to an unthreaded bolt that has a hole
through the shaft in the end opposite the end that is expanded.
Safety pin: Similar to the pins that you pin diapers on a child. (I
guess that dates me)
Cotter pins: A doubled wire pin that can be inserted through a hole in
a clevis pin and bent to keep in place.
Split key ring: A spring steel split ring that can be threaded through
the hole in a clevis pin to keep it in place. (Almost impossible to
"Slop out"). This type of retainer is probably the safest and most
reliable. Somewhat difficult to insert and remove.
There is another type of pin (that I have always incorrectly called a
clevis pin) that has a spring steel offset circle in the head of the pin
that is flipped over the end of the clevis pin to keep it in place.
These will lose out. (Ask any farmer)
This brings us to my recommendation to put a drop of silicone sealer on
the safety pins. That means putting the drop of silicone at the point
where the point of the pin is engaged under the clasp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
Ralph said....
> Doing the calculations on the chart, this works
> out to be:
> Winter: +20 deg - jet size 162 to 165
> Summer: +86 deg - jet size 157 to 160
> According to the chart, from summer to winter, the span of main jet sizes
> will range from 160 to 165 for the temperatures and altitudes that I fly.
Snip.......
That's all well and good....and I suspect it'll do you a lot of good
if all you ever do is fly around at full throttle all the time. I'll
wager that no one does so the main jet issue is one of full power
operation only....not indicative of cruise part throttle when you're
on the needle/needle jet. And I'll bet that this is 97% of the time
you fly. That leaves 3% or less operation for the main jet.
Better start thinking about the other jets/needles.
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
>Find out your near or actual stall indicated speed before your first
>landing. Your ASI might be very off. Mine reads about 8-10 mph too high.
>Carry some extra speed on approach. It bleeds off pretty fast in the
flair.
Make a note to remember what your ASI reads at liftoff, then add at least 10
mph to it for climb and approach. That seems to work pretty well for me. I
never know what to expect of my ASI since I keep messing with my
pitot/static system :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
>This calibration error is not real large but something to be aware of.
Unless you have an EIS, then you can blissfully ignorant :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Jim,
You are right, I didn't say anything about the jetting of the other
components of the carb. Maybe I have something to learn here (and isn't
this what it's all about?). I do know through experience that my Rotax
has been very reliable year round. If there is a possibility that I can
improve its reliability, I will do so.
Ralph Burlingame
400 hr Rotax
writes:
>Ralph said....
>
>> Doing the calculations on the chart, this works
>> out to be:
>> Winter: +20 deg - jet size 162 to 165
>> Summer: +86 deg - jet size 157 to 160
>> According to the chart, from summer to winter, the span of main jet
>sizes will range from 160 to 165 for the temperatures and altitudes that
I
>fly.
>Snip.......
>
>That's all well and good....and I suspect it'll do you a lot of good
>if all you ever do is fly around at full throttle all the time. I'll
>wager that no one does so the main jet issue is one of full power
>operation only....not indicative of cruise part throttle when you're
>on the needle/needle jet. And I'll bet that this is 97% of the time
>you fly. That leaves 3% or less operation for the main jet.
>Better start thinking about the other jets/needles.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Jim Baker
>Pres, USUA Club 104
>Frontier Ultralight Aviators
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PKrotje <PKrotje(at)aol.com> |
<< That's all well and good....and I suspect it'll do you a lot of good
if all you ever do is fly around at full throttle all the time. I'll
wager that no one does so the main jet issue is one of full power
operation only....not indicative of cruise part throttle when you're
on the needle/needle jet. And I'll bet that this is 97% of the time
you fly. That leaves 3% or less operation for the main jet.
Better start thinking about the other jets/needles.
>>
Well said!!
The notion that changing the main jet to get cruise operating temps to optimal
ignores most of the theory of operation of the Bing carb.
Pete Krotje
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chm12345(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | N309CM takes off for the first time. |
Our little Firestar II (N309CM) flew today for the first time. Very stable and
fun first flight. Flies level with no force on the stick (that nose ballast is
doing its job) but it does require quite a bit of left rudder to fly straight.
4 little crow hops built my confidence enough to do a last check on the plane
and take it up for a spin. Climbed to 1000' and performed three stalls to get
an idea of what approach speed I would be using. All I can say is that this
thing flies very very very slow if you want it to. Landings were sweet and
easy (I used the "keep some power on" method on the flare).
I'll keep ya'll informed.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
> Ralph said....
>
> > Doing the calculations on the chart, this works
> > out to be:
> > Winter: +20 deg - jet size 162 to 165
> > Summer: +86 deg - jet size 157 to 160
> > According to the chart, from summer to winter, the span of main jet sizes
> > will range from 160 to 165 for the temperatures and altitudes that I fly.
> Snip.......
>
Jim Baker wrote:
> That's all well and good....and I suspect it'll do you a lot of good
> if all you ever do is fly around at full throttle all the time. I'll
> wager that no one does so the main jet issue is one of full power
> operation only....not indicative of cruise part throttle when you're
> on the needle/needle jet. And I'll bet that this is 97% of the time
> you fly. That leaves 3% or less operation for the main jet.
>
> Better start thinking about the other jets/needles.
>
It has already been thought of. Here it is:
The mid range works the same as the main jet. By that I mean that a
large temperature ramge can be covered also. Let me add my mid range
info to what Ralph provided for main jets. I run 2.70 and 8O2 and the
165 main, which are stock for the 377. The only change is that I run the
needle clip one notch higher (leaner) than stock.
There are two situations that this combination is less than ideal:
1) When the temperature is near 100 degrees on the ground, and after a
long decent and landing, the engine can be difficult to taxi because it
runs so rich. If the engine is shut off and allowed to cool, it can be
started and taxied, in the same temperature, with no problem.
2) In temperatures near 20 degrees, the EGT rises more than normal if
the throttle is not reduced enough while decending. I am in the habit of
monitoring my EGT when decending, so I don't consider it a problem, but
I could move the clip back to the stock (#2) position for winter.
I fly in Wisconsin and the field altitude is 1000 ASL. Also, I have
flown Quicksilvers, one with a 377, and another with a 447 and the same
jet combination worked for them too-> All stock except with the needle
clip one position leaner.
John Jung
377 Firestar (For Sale)
503 Firestar II N6163J (soon to be inspected)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Flying Stories |
Ron Carroll wrote:
>
> I second that motion! I'll be in the Kolb for the 1st time before too
> much longer and would really appreciate anything relating to what I can
> expect.
>
> Ron Carroll
> Original Firestar, FS-015
>
Ron,
Bring us up to date on your progress. What are you workimg on now?
Are you enjoying the building?
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Flying Stories |
Here is my current flying story from Wisconsin:
There is 17 inches of snow in front of the hanger and nearly a foot on
the runway. I am starting to check the prices of old 4 wheel drive
vehicles with plows. I'm hoping for an early spring or at least a warm
period to mealt the snow. I had been counting on the guys down south for
winter flying stories.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
William Hinkelmann
| Subject: | Re[4]: Safety pins |
When I posted this reply about direction a bolts or pins are placed,
it is a practice, not the rule. There are always exceptions. If
documents indicate other wise then you follow that. Slip streams and
vibration tend to work things in specific directions. It would be
much better to have the bolt holding the wing on with no nut than an
empty hole.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Re[2]: Safety pins
Date: 1/23/98 7:49 PM
At 07:14 PM 1/20/98 cst, jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
> This may or may not be a safety issue, but shouldn't the clevis pins
> be inserted so the head is facing the front thus if the clip should be
> left off, the natural tendency would be for it to work towards the
> rear thus stay in place.
>
> I was taught it was considered a no no to put bolts in with the head
> towards the rear for that reason. You don't want them to work out.
>
>Guess you havent read Chuck Yegars Book. In short - there is no up or
down in an airplane. You have + and - G's up, down, front and back. Seems
there was a guy putting bolts with the nut at the bottom when the drawings
called for the nut to be on top. Nasty thing was it would bind the
ailerons killed a few pilots, Chuck was lucky.
_____________________
William Hinkelmann
whink(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Flying Stories |
| From: | rayul(at)juno.com (Raymond L Lujon) |
Here is my current flying story in Minnesota. At least 15" of snow, the
snowmobilers are having a field day. I have my Firestar in the garage
with a flat tire, with my wife's car, while my Ranger pickup sits out in
the cold. My trailer is buried in snow alongside the garage. Its a large
(built to my specifications) open trailer, hard enough to move by hand
out to the street in the summer, haven't tried to move it since it
started snowing right after Christmas. I flew through December from a
farmers private grass strip (2000 ft.), nine miles from my home. There is
an ultralight field (short strip) much closer, but I am a low time pilot
and I prefer, for the time being, lots of room. My farm field slopes
north to south. I like to take off down hill and land up hill. That gives
you some idea the kind of wind conditions I fly in. I have skis for the
plane, but no experience, so I am moving very slow in this direction.
Ray Lujon, Woodbury, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
The Flight to Deer River
The year was 1991, and two of my friends and myself decided to take a
winter flight 160 mi north of the twin cities to Deer River MN to visit a
relative. The forecast was for temperatures to be in the 40's state wide
through the weekend. I drove my car and trailer out on Lake Minnetonka to
set up on an early Saturday morning Feb 2nd. After unfolding the wings
and setting up, I had to take off the wheels and put on the skis. I got
ready to go, and took off heading north ~50 mi to meet my friends. I
landed on East Hunter Lake near Zimmerman where they were anxiously
waiting. Jerry had a Mark II and Don had a Cloudancer UL. We all took off
one after the other on are way to a fun filled weekend of flying and
adventure, so we thought. After and hour of flying to Garrison on the
shores of Lake Millacs, we landed and stopped for lunch. Winds were out
of the south at 17mph, so we had a nice tailwind and we were making good
time. The takeoff was interesting because we got caught up in the
turbulence that came from the hills just to our south. As far as
navigation goes, we all were following one of the main highways that runs
N and S through the area. The temps were extremely warm and in the 40's
and close to 50 deg at 2000 ft. I had to unzip my outer suit to keep from
get overheated. As we arrived, Jerry landed first as Don and I watched
from above. I saw a flurry of snow fly up as he landed. I knew there was
a problem. As I landed, I could see what had happened when I nearly nosed
over in the snow as the FireStar came to an abrupt halt. There was 3 ft
of snow on the ground and the temps had approached nearly 60 that day,
which eroded the snow. The skis sunk down below the snow surface making
it impossible to even taxi. I had to get out of the UL and walk beside
it, maneuvering the throttle, to taxi it to the house where we would
stay. The temps later that evening had dropped to -5 deg and froze the
crusted snow. The following day we were getting ready to fly when we
noticed the sharp snow-crusts had sliced through the fabric on the bottom
of Jerry's rudder. Don in the meantime was testing the air doing his
usual "turn-off-the-engine" and glide routine. We were all out on the
lake watching him glide down when all of a sudden his left wing folded up
as he made his approach to the lake surface! This is all we could see
from about 1000 ft away. We ran over to him. As we got closer, we saw
what had happened. He had hit a power line that was somehow unmarked and
stretched across the lake! He was out of the cockpit and completely
intact! The plane was another story. There was a hole in the left wing's
D cell where the electricity had burned through. It was a mess. He told
us that he couldn't see the line until it was right there. He said at
that point in time he knew what was going to happen and time stopped. The
power line was like a giant rubber band slowing him down and dropping him
right out of the air! He hit it at 60mph and 50 ft up. I was so glad Don
had survived without a scratch! We spent the remainder of the day
removing the UL off the lake. Jerry found a problem with his right ski on
the
Mark II which put him out of commission too. The following day Don had
called his wife to come and get him and his broken plane. Jerry did the
same which left me "the lone eagle" to fly home. This was now Monday
morning, I had a strong north wind and I was heading south. I pointed the
nose in the right direction and headed back for Lake Millacs. I reached
Garrison by lunch time, and continued on south to Lake Minntetonka. I
could see my car and trailer still out on the lake. As I took my
ultralight down, I was thinking about the trip and how fortunate we were.
It made me realize all the things that can go wrong. After putting my
FireStar away in the garage, I noticed the ice and snow had eroded about
an 1/8" of the leading edge of my wood prop. I don't have that wood prop
on my plane anymore. I will put it on my wall someday to serve as a good
conversation piece about my adventures in the 'ol FireStar.
Sadly, we lost Don in July '96 when he crashed his Cloudancer while doing
his usual "turn-off-the-engine" routine. He was a good friend and I will
miss him.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Flying Stories |
John, I wish I had seen your Firestar for sale before I started this
project. I am progressing pretty well considering the problems I've had
dealing with Kolb, trying to get parts missing from the kit I bought.
I faxed Kolb an order for parts on December 15th, and after several
phone calls and a couple of e-mail messages from Dennis, I received a
shipment on January 19th (5-WEEKS). The shipment did not include two
badly needed parts (drag-strut fittings), and shipped two wrong parts
(shipped aileron horns instead of elevator horns). When I called for
help I was treated very rudely!
With that off my chest, I am coming along pretty well. I have the wings
complete, except for the drag-struts, the tail feathers are done, except
the elevator horns. All metal parts, except those short in the kit,
have been powder-coated. I ordered and received the HD landing gear
legs and brakes. I still have to put the ailerons, cage and, of course,
all the engine and control paraphernalia.
The plan is to complete by springtime so that I can participate in a
group flight around the state of Oregon in June. I only hope the
Original Firestar with the 377 performs as well as I am lead to believe.
Thanks for your interest and concern.
Ron Carroll
Independence, Oregon
Original Firestar, FS-015
---
>Ron Carroll wrote:
>>
>> I second that motion! I'll be in the Kolb for the 1st time before
too
>> much longer and would really appreciate anything relating to what I
can
>> expect.
>Ron,
> Bring us up to date on your progress. What are you workimg on now?
>Are you enjoying the building?
>John Jung
>Firestar II N6163J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
How about . . .? Nah!
Well, maybe. Just had an idea. I wonder what would happen if you
carried a spare container of fuel, had a tube running from that tank to
the main tank. Then with a second tube connected from the spare tank to
a funnel, when the funnel's open end is directed into the wind it would
pressurize the spare tank and force the fuel into the main tank, right?
Nah!
As my old friend, Bill Patent (inventor of the Patent Office), once
said, "Keep this under your hat, Ronnie".
Ron Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan <Timandjan(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | annual inspection |
I am coming up on my first annual inspection that I will perform, and finally
received my repairmans certificate after 10 months. Well I was wondering if
anybody has compiled a good list to check to do the inspection. I will break
the Firestar 2 down for my inspection, but what has everybody else done. What
about the 503 to meet the inspection requirements.
Just have not seen anything like discussed by the group.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
HENRY
The pin that broke on my M / 3 was the safety pin that went in the
clevis pin
writes:
>Me thinks the discussion about safety pins is confused by a lack of
>communication and definition of the pins in question. Lets define
>each
>pin and then see if we can bring some order to this discussion.
>
> Clevis pin: A round pin similar to an unthreaded bolt that has
>a hole
>through the shaft in the end opposite the end that is expanded.
>
> Safety pin: Similar to the pins that you pin diapers on a
>child. (I
>guess that dates me)
>
> Cotter pins: A doubled wire pin that can be inserted through a
>hole in
>a clevis pin and bent to keep in place.
>
> Split key ring: A spring steel split ring that can be threaded
>through
>the hole in a clevis pin to keep it in place. (Almost impossible to
>"Slop out"). This type of retainer is probably the safest and most
>reliable. Somewhat difficult to insert and remove.
>
> There is another type of pin (that I have always incorrectly
>called a
>clevis pin) that has a spring steel offset circle in the head of the
>pin
>that is flipped over the end of the clevis pin to keep it in place.
>These will lose out. (Ask any farmer)
>
> This brings us to my recommendation to put a drop of silicone
>sealer on
>the safety pins. That means putting the drop of silicone at the point
>where the point of the pin is engaged under the clasp.
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
| Subject: | SlingShot Update |
Hi everyone,
Just to entertain all the snow-bound Kolbers out there, I braved the bitter
cold 60 degree weather in the SS today :-) The purpose of today's flight
was to pull at least 3 G's prior to removing the BRS. I figured this would
be more than I would ever pull in normal flying, and a bit less than the 4 G
limit of the aircraft (which I suspect is pretty darned conservative).
My technique was to enter a dive with the power reduced to around 4500 rpm.
I held about 90 mph then pulled up rather briskly. My aim was to end up
less than 20-30 degrees nose high by starting nose low. Fortunately, no
half loops were performed in the process. On the first few attempts, I
couldn't seem to bring myself to exceed 2.75 G's (yes I have a G meter).
For a while, I gave up and did some stalls while screwing up the courage to
push a bit harder. My last attempt hit 3.2 G's on the meter. There were no
fatalities and post flight inspection showed no sign of strain (on the
plane).
I now consider the SS to be proven in the strength department, so the BRS
was removed and will be shipped off to it's new owner in the next couple
days. I'll be eager to see what the loss of 26 lbs does to the performance.
After removing the chute, I re-weighed the plane since it's gained a few
items since the last official weigh-in. The new empty weight is 395.5 lbs.
(Dennis)This only includes about 5 lbs worth of non-essential stuff (radio
and GPS). The plane has brakes, but no silver in the paint, and of course
the wimp engine. This should be about minimum weight for a SS.
Russell Duffy
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
RV-8 under construction (rotary engine planned)
rad(at)pen.net
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Flying Stories |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
OK Cliff, just remember - you asked! :-)
It was Oct. 3, 1992 and a beautiful day for flying. Through some error in
planning, two annual events had been set for the same day. First was the
"Airman Acres Bean Dinner", a very popular local fly-in that guarantees a
tailwind on the way home. Second was the "Jansen Ranch Hamburger Feed",
same thing, only not nearly as well known.
Not wanting to pass-up 2 free meals, 5 or 6 of us ultralighters began
making our plan. We knew that timing would be critical. We'd have to eat
the beans fast and leave Airman Acres pretty quick to make the 30 mile
trip to Jansen's before the burgers were all gone. We'd have to be sneaky
too because a hasty exit might tip-off the GA types that there was more
free food somewhere and they could certainly beat us to it! We were very
cool and thought it was going to work but half way through our first bowl
of beans, we heard the Lycomings and Continentals begin to crank-up.
Someone had let the cat out of the bag and the race was on! We scrambled
and were soon on a SSE heading for Jansen's. En route, I recall being
waved to from a Piper Cub and a Stinson L-5 as they "whizzed" by. I waved
back and even used all my fingers but it took some restraint.
Jansen's is a horse ranch with a grass runway. Mr. Jansen invites local
aviators and some kids from the local boy's home to let them get up-close
to some real airplanes (and even ultralights). Arriving at Jansen's, we
could see about 30 or 40 planes parked off the northeast end of the
runway. It was the biggest turnout he'd ever had! The chances of getting
a burger seemed pretty slim but due to Mr. J's generosity, even us poor,
slow, LATE, excuses for aviators weren't disappointed.
This year, Mr. J had invited a local model rocket club to the bash and
after everyone had finished eating, they set-up to do what they do. I've
never been involved with model rocketry but some of these things are
really works of art. Anyway, four or five successful launches were made
with some small to medium sized rockets. Then, they brought out
...BERTHA. Bertha stood five feet tall and must have had 4 or 5 engines
in the business end. A hush fell over the crowd as the countdown began.
The crowd chanted "Zero!" and Bertha slowly began to rise from the pad. A
little too slowly in fact. Apparently not all the engines had ignited
when they were supposed to and at about 3 feet AGL, she began to tilt and
then fell over. She had only enough power left to slide over the tarp
that had been put down over the dry (really dry!) grass in the pasture
just south of where the planes were parked. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention
the light south breeze that had blown steady all day at a comfortable
5-10 MPH.
The next couple minutes went in slow motion. I remember some muffled
laughter, then some silence, then absolute chaos. Some folks ran to the
ranch house, some began stomping the flames. I don't recall seeing them
but some must have jumped right over me and made it to their planes
because the next thing I remember was the sound of several Bendix
starters growling in unison. For a few minutes, the "pattern" must have
looked like Oshkosh at sunset on Friday.
When you fly an ultralight and come home wearing a pair of scorched
tennis shoes, jeans gray from the knees down, and smelling of smoke,
there are many questions to be answered. Thankfully, the fire was put-out
before reaching anything of value and as I recall, it had been a
beautiful day for flying.
-Mick Fine
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
Tulsa, Oklahoma
mefine1(at)juno.com
For Attachments Use: froghair(at)mailexcite.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net> |
>The pin that broke on my M / 3 was the safety pin that went in the
>clevis pin
How old was the pin? Did it just wear through over time?
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Flying Stories |
In a word, "Great!"
Ron
>OK Cliff, just remember - you asked! :-)
>
>It was Oct. 3, 1992 and a beautiful day for flying. Through some error
in
>planning, two annual events had been set for the same day. First was
the
>"Airman Acres Bean Dinner", a very popular local fly-in that guarantees
a
>tailwind on the way home. Second was the "Jansen Ranch Hamburger Feed",
>same thing, only not nearly as well known.
>
>Not wanting to pass-up 2 free meals, 5 or 6 of us ultralighters began
>making our plan. We knew that timing would be critical. We'd have to
eat
>the beans fast and leave Airman Acres pretty quick to make the 30 mile
>trip to Jansen's before the burgers were all gone. We'd have to be
sneaky
>too because a hasty exit might tip-off the GA types that there was more
>free food somewhere and they could certainly beat us to it! We were
very
>cool and thought it was going to work but half way through our first
bowl
>of beans, we heard the Lycomings and Continentals begin to crank-up.
>Someone had let the cat out of the bag and the race was on! We
scrambled
>and were soon on a SSE heading for Jansen's. En route, I recall being
>waved to from a Piper Cub and a Stinson L-5 as they "whizzed" by. I
waved
>back and even used all my fingers but it took some restraint.
>
>Jansen's is a horse ranch with a grass runway. Mr. Jansen invites local
>aviators and some kids from the local boy's home to let them get
up-close
>to some real airplanes (and even ultralights). Arriving at Jansen's, we
>could see about 30 or 40 planes parked off the northeast end of the
>runway. It was the biggest turnout he'd ever had! The chances of
getting
>a burger seemed pretty slim but due to Mr. J's generosity, even us
poor,
>slow, LATE, excuses for aviators weren't disappointed.
>
>This year, Mr. J had invited a local model rocket club to the bash and
>after everyone had finished eating, they set-up to do what they do.
I've
>never been involved with model rocketry but some of these things are
>really works of art. Anyway, four or five successful launches were made
>with some small to medium sized rockets. Then, they brought out
>...BERTHA. Bertha stood five feet tall and must have had 4 or 5 engines
>in the business end. A hush fell over the crowd as the countdown began.
>The crowd chanted "Zero!" and Bertha slowly began to rise from the pad.
A
>little too slowly in fact. Apparently not all the engines had ignited
>when they were supposed to and at about 3 feet AGL, she began to tilt
and
>then fell over. She had only enough power left to slide over the tarp
>that had been put down over the dry (really dry!) grass in the pasture
>just south of where the planes were parked. Oh yeah, I forgot to
mention
>the light south breeze that had blown steady all day at a comfortable
>5-10 MPH.
>
>The next couple minutes went in slow motion. I remember some muffled
>laughter, then some silence, then absolute chaos. Some folks ran to the
>ranch house, some began stomping the flames. I don't recall seeing them
>but some must have jumped right over me and made it to their planes
>because the next thing I remember was the sound of several Bendix
>starters growling in unison. For a few minutes, the "pattern" must have
>looked like Oshkosh at sunset on Friday.
>
>When you fly an ultralight and come home wearing a pair of scorched
>tennis shoes, jeans gray from the knees down, and smelling of smoke,
>there are many questions to be answered. Thankfully, the fire was
put-out
>before reaching anything of value and as I recall, it had been a
>beautiful day for flying.
>
>
>-Mick Fine
>Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
>Tulsa, Oklahoma
>mefine1(at)juno.com
>For Attachments Use: froghair(at)mailexcite.com
>
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: N309CM takes off for the first time. |
>Our little Firestar II (N309CM) flew today for the first time. Very stable
and
>fun first flight. Flies level with no force on the stick (that nose
ballast is
>doing its job) but it does require quite a bit of left rudder to fly
straight.
>
>4 little crow hops built my confidence enough to do a last check on the plane
>and take it up for a spin. Climbed to 1000' and performed three stalls to get
>an idea of what approach speed I would be using. All I can say is that this
>thing flies very very very slow if you want it to. Landings were sweet and
>easy (I used the "keep some power on" method on the flare).
>
>I'll keep ya'll informed.
>
>Chris
Sounds great! Congratulations!
As you may have seen in previous discussion, shimming the engine thrust line
up or down can do a lot to affect yaw trim. Since yours wants to go right
(starboard), shimming the front of the engine up will direct the thrust line
lower, the desired effect being to get the top half of the prop disk down
more to hit the vert stab. (Top half swirls to starboard which yaws the
plane to port if enf of it hits the vert stab.) Of course check to keep
adequate prop clearance from the fuselage tube.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Flying Stories |
Mick says.....
> I've
> >never been involved with model rocketry but some of these things are
> >really works of art. Anyway, four or five successful launches were made
> >with some small to medium sized rockets. Then, they brought out
> >...BERTHA. Bertha stood five feet tall and must have had 4 or 5 engines
For those so inclined, check out
http://www.tripoli.org/
These guys are into really big, powerful rockets. The national meet
is out in Bonneville, UT this year, in August. They fire some of
these things from block house situations. Some of the propellants
they use are pretty close to explosives and some do/have blown up
shattering windows and car windshields at one mile distances.
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Exemption trivia...... |
Two point to anyone who can identify which FAA ultralight exemption
allows an additional 96 pounds to the basic 254.
It's not floats and its certainly not chute. What is it?
; )
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exemption trivia...... |
I'll try for the points. It is the extra weight allowed for two place
trainning (350 total) by exemption 4274 before it was amended to a total
of 496 pounds.
John Jung
Jim Baker wrote:
>
> Two point to anyone who can identify which FAA ultralight exemption
> allows an additional 96 pounds to the basic 254.
>
> It's not floats and its certainly not chute. What is it?
>
> ; )
>
> Jim Baker
> Pres, USUA Club 104
> Frontier Ultralight Aviators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exemption trivia...... |
> I'll try for the points. It is the extra weight allowed for two place
> trainning (350 total) by exemption 4274 before it was amended to a total
> of 496 pounds.
> John Jung
>
Nope.....
Jim Baker
Pres, USUA Club 104
Frontier Ultralight Aviators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
RUSTY
The safety pin had 52.0 hr. on it this is the total time on the plane as
far as having ware on it , I can't tell . But what every pin or
ring clip , that I put in will be looked at very close . I don't think
that in 50 hr or so that their would be that kind of wear .
>>The pin that broke on my M / 3 was the safety pin that went in the
>>clevis pin
>
>
>How old was the pin? Did it just wear through over time?
>
>Rusty
>
>
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Flying Stories |
>Here is my current flying story from Wisconsin:
>There is 17 inches of snow in front of the hanger and nearly a foot on
>the runway. I am starting to check the prices of old 4 wheel drive
>vehicles with plows. I'm hoping for an early spring or at least a warm
>period to mealt the snow. I had been counting on the guys down south for
>winter flying stories.
>John Jung
>-
Hey, you can still fly in the snow! :-)
We've had a lot less snow than usual here in western New York. There were
one or two big storms, but its been pretty mild since then. (Which I
normally wouldn't mind, except that I've been wanting to try out the
skis I built!) The skis aren't painted yet; I plan to wax them after I do
that. I've managed to get one flight in on the skis. I got a day when
it finally got cold enough so that the snow wasn't slush. It was a *little*
wet, but not much.
Not having flown on skis before, I wasn't sure what to expect. I had
some pointers from a few people and a few preconceived notions, but
that was it. :-) After I started the engine and hopped in, I pushed the
throttle forward and nothing happened. (In the summer, I have to hold the
brakes on to keep from rolling at anything above a low idle.) I realized
that the skis created more friction than wheels, and I sort of jerked back
and forth in my seat which was enough to break the friction and get me
rolling. (err, sliding) I taxied around in a couple of circles, then down
the runway once slowly, and taxied back a lot quicker. I pointed the FireFly
down the runway and started my takeoff run. Back before I knew about the
effects of appying full power in a pusher with a high line of thrust, I put
my FireFly up on its nose. (Only had to do that once.) ;-) So, I was aware
that the extra friction of the skis might cause a problem in this department.
I applied power very, very slowly, and held the stick all the way back. Good
thing I did too. The takeoffs were actually pretty interesting... I had to
add power very slowly; the plane felt like it wanted to go up on its nose.
If I put in power a little too quickly, it would start to dive. There was
nothing I could do with the stick; I already had it all the way back.
As the plane got fast enough to think about flying, it started to hop on
the runway. Having the stick all the way back was pulling it off the
runway prematurely, and it would drop back down. I didn't feel comfortable
putting the stick forward though. I did move the stick forward slightly,
and I tried to get it flying in ground effect, and then crank in the power.
I sort of expected the climb rate to be much better in the cold, but I
didn't notice any difference. Where I DID notice a difference was my EGT
temps. The CHT's were fine, but my front and rear EGT's kept trying to go
over 1200. I constantly had to adjust the power settings (either down to
idle or up to full power) to lower the temps. I'm going to have to re-read
some of the re-jetting posts from this list to figure out what to do.
The one area where I thought there might be a problem was actually a
non-issue; that's landing. The first time around the pattern, I made
what was arguably one of my best landings ever. The subsequent ones weren't
quite as good but they were still very nice. I guess the snow does a
good job cusioning the landing. I don't have a ski on my tailwheel, and
this turned out to not be a problem at all. All of my landings were
3-pointers (to reduce the chance of going up on the nose).
I dressed in several layers of clothing and I stayed plenty warm,
except for my hands. I wore some cotton/wool type gloves, and a pair of
neoprene gloves over them, but my hands still got very cold. (Especially
the one that was out in the air on the throttle.) Any hints as to what
would give me some more protection? Also, if anyone would like to share
their snow takeoff technique I sure wouldn't mind hearing it. :-)
-Jon-
.--- stei0302@cs.fredonia.edu -- http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
| DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ, RP-SEL |
| '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447 (#FF019) |
`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Flying Stories |
Jon Steiger wrote:
> Hey, you can still fly in the snow! :-)
>
>snip....
>
> I dressed in several layers of clothing and I stayed plenty warm,
> except for my hands. I wore some cotton/wool type gloves, and a pair of
> neoprene gloves over them, but my hands still got very cold. (Especially
> the one that was out in the air on the throttle.) Any hints as to what
> would give me some more protection? Also, if anyone would like to share
> their snow takeoff technique I sure wouldn't mind hearing it. :-)
>
> -Jon-
>
Jon,
I don't have skis now, but I have used them in the past. They were
made from water skis and the bottoms had several coats of enamal paint
(sanded between coats), and then waxed. When they were kept well waxed,
they only stuck to the snow when it was wet.
To keep my hands warm, I wear leather gloves with thinsulate linings,
and I take my hand off the throttle when not necessary. When I flew
totally open ultralights in the winter, I wore military artic gear
mittens with thinsulate gloves under them.
As far as take-off technique, I haven't flown the Firestar on skis
yet. But in December I flew out of 3 to 4 inches of snow on wheels. I
needed full back stick, but I got off in about 100 feet.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | Interference drag reduction |
After finding Mike Arnold's Web page http://www.crl.com./~marnold/
I am wondering if anyone is working on drag reduction of the MAJOR interference
area on the Mkiii (and maybe the Firestars too), the top of the windshield
where it meets the wing shape. I have photos of a Mkiii on floats with a
completely different gap seal. The photo was taken at Oshkosh last year, I
think the plane was from Canada. The gap seal sorta blended the wings downward
to a rounded cabin-top, which met up with the windsheild perfectly. Does
anyone recognize this plane from my description? Is anyone else out there
working on this? Any idea if it works to cut drag?
I know the Kolb will never set speed records, but if I can pick up 8-10mph
cruise with a custom-built wing gap seal I would spend a couple months on it.
Reduced power setting and lower fuel consumption are my real goals here.
Check out Mike's page if you get time. It amazes me, 213 mph on a Rotax 582!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
test note, please discard.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Flying Stories |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Jon,
You want to wax those skis with "Gulf Wax". This is the type of wax that
can be bought at the local grocery store that your mom used for sealing
the tops of jars when making jellies and jams. I don't know what kind of
skis you have, but the long 5-1/2 ft water skis adapted for winter use
seem to be the best for gliding on heavy snow. Depending on the snow
conditions, will determine your ground roll (slide). The wetter snow is
stickier and can really provide a lot of snow drag. I find a triangular
piece of oak strapped against the tailwheel rod using some neoprene
tubing with hose clamps protects the tailwheel from ice that can tear it
off. You've got the technique down by applying power slowly with the
stick back.
You may try using neutral stick, since that can be easier on the
tailwheel dragging through the snow. Yes, sometimes you have to shake
your bodyweight around in your seat to break the skis free after it's
been sitting for awhile. I find the ordinary snowmobile or ski gloves to
be plenty adequate for my winter flying. My left hand is exposed to the
slipstream when I have it on the throttle, which is most of the time. The
gloves I have are a pair of "Columbia" ski gloves.
Go do some "ground effect" flying!
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar in Minnesota
writes:
>>Here is my current flying story from Wisconsin:
>>There is 17 inches of snow in front of the hanger and nearly a foot
>on
>>the runway. I am starting to check the prices of old 4 wheel drive
>>vehicles with plows. I'm hoping for an early spring or at least a
>warm
>>period to mealt the snow. I had been counting on the guys down south
>for
>>winter flying stories.
>>John Jung
>>-
>
> Hey, you can still fly in the snow! :-)
>
> We've had a lot less snow than usual here in western New York.
>There were
>one or two big storms, but its been pretty mild since then. (Which I
>normally wouldn't mind, except that I've been wanting to try out the
>skis I built!) The skis aren't painted yet; I plan to wax them after
>I do
>that. I've managed to get one flight in on the skis. I got a day
>when
>it finally got cold enough so that the snow wasn't slush. It was a
>*little*
>wet, but not much.
>
> Not having flown on skis before, I wasn't sure what to expect. I
>had
>some pointers from a few people and a few preconceived notions, but
>that was it. :-) After I started the engine and hopped in, I pushed
>the
>throttle forward and nothing happened. (In the summer, I have to hold
>the
>brakes on to keep from rolling at anything above a low idle.) I
>realized
>that the skis created more friction than wheels, and I sort of jerked
>back
>and forth in my seat which was enough to break the friction and get me
>
>rolling. (err, sliding) I taxied around in a couple of circles, then
>down
>the runway once slowly, and taxied back a lot quicker. I pointed the
>FireFly
>down the runway and started my takeoff run. Back before I knew about
>the
>effects of appying full power in a pusher with a high line of thrust,
>I put
>my FireFly up on its nose. (Only had to do that once.) ;-) So, I
>was aware
>that the extra friction of the skis might cause a problem in this
>department.
>I applied power very, very slowly, and held the stick all the way
>back. Good
>thing I did too. The takeoffs were actually pretty interesting... I
>had to
>add power very slowly; the plane felt like it wanted to go up on its
>nose.
>If I put in power a little too quickly, it would start to dive. There
>was
>nothing I could do with the stick; I already had it all the way back.
>As the plane got fast enough to think about flying, it started to hop
>on
>the runway. Having the stick all the way back was pulling it off the
>runway prematurely, and it would drop back down. I didn't feel
>comfortable
>putting the stick forward though. I did move the stick forward
>slightly,
>and I tried to get it flying in ground effect, and then crank in the
>power.
>
> I sort of expected the climb rate to be much better in the cold,
>but I
>didn't notice any difference. Where I DID notice a difference was my
>EGT
>temps. The CHT's were fine, but my front and rear EGT's kept trying
>to go
>over 1200. I constantly had to adjust the power settings (either down
>to
>idle or up to full power) to lower the temps. I'm going to have to
>re-read
>some of the re-jetting posts from this list to figure out what to do.
>
> The one area where I thought there might be a problem was actually a
>
>non-issue; that's landing. The first time around the pattern, I made
>what was arguably one of my best landings ever. The subsequent ones
>weren't
>quite as good but they were still very nice. I guess the snow does a
>good job cusioning the landing. I don't have a ski on my tailwheel,
>and
>this turned out to not be a problem at all. All of my landings were
>3-pointers (to reduce the chance of going up on the nose).
>
> I dressed in several layers of clothing and I stayed plenty warm,
>except for my hands. I wore some cotton/wool type gloves, and a pair
>of
>neoprene gloves over them, but my hands still got very cold.
>(Especially
>the one that was out in the air on the throttle.) Any hints as to
>what
>would give me some more protection? Also, if anyone would like to
>share
>their snow takeoff technique I sure wouldn't mind hearing it. :-)
>
>
> -Jon-
>
> .--- stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu --
>http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ---.
> | DoD# 1038, EAA# 518210, NMA# 117376, USUA# A46209, KotWitDoDFAQ,
>RP-SEL |
> | '96 Dodge Dakota v8 SLT Club Cab, '96 Kolb FireFly 447
>(#FF019) |
>
>`-------------------------------------------------------------------------'
> I do not speak for the SUNY College at Fredonia; any opinions are
>my own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Christensen" <SPECTRUMINTERNATIONAL(at)classic.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Re[2]: Wing Fuel Tanks |
I would worry about the gas moving to the "down end" of the tube tanks during
an uncoordinated turn, causing a serious off balance condition. Remember, gas
weighs about 6 pounds/gal. Are the ailerons are powerful enough to roll the
airplane back to a wing level condition if several pounds (say 15 to 20 lb.)
of fuel are a few feet off the CG??? In a perfectly coordinated turn,
theoretically, the fuel would NOT slosh to the "down end" of the tube tank,
however I would not count on being able to avoid the off CG condition.
Other thoughts anyone??
Ron Christensen
MKIII 1/2
N313DR
----------
From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com on behalf of Richard Pike
Sent: Friday, January 23, 1998 6:56 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Re[2]: Wing Fuel Tanks
At 04:12 PM 1/23/98 cst, you wrote:
>
> While building I had joked about putting tubes of large diameter PVC
> pipe in the wing spar tubes (once their drilled) as Aux fuel tanks.
>
> Any comments:
>
> Yeah, use lots of sealer where the lift strut bolts go thru...
Actually , if you could figure out a way to pad them from all the rivits,
and just made them from the root rib to the lift strut bolt, it is probably
a good idea. The formula for the volume of a cylinder is Volume
pi x radius squared x height. If you used a 5" pipe 72" long, that is 1472
cubic inches a side. One gallon of gas takes up 231 cubic inches, or just
over 6 gallons a side. Not bad. Let us know how it works.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P(42oldpoops)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Gerken <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
Does anyone know where I might find some Streamline material, probably plastic
snap-on type, and I want it big enough to enclose a 1.5" round object
(insulated heater hose)?
Thanks!
Jim Gerken
507-253-2454
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: HUMOR: cyber-cafe' bill of fare |
-----Original Message-----
From: kewilliams(at)juno.com <kewilliams(at)juno.com>
; elosmond(at)juno.com ;
lschrodt(at)juno.com ; JWsq(at)aol.com
; david.remus(at)worldnet.att.net
Date: Saturday, January 24, 1998 2:28 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: HUMOR: cyber-cafe' bill of fare
>bject: HUMOR: cyber-cafe' bill of fare
>| Date: Tuesday, January 13, 1998 8:02 PM
>|
>| THE KEYBOARD RESTAURANT MENU
>|
>| \&&&&&&&/ Pretzels!
>|
>| \66666666/ Shrimp!
>|
>| \********/ Popcorn!
>|
>| ^<**>^ ^<**>^ Hot steamed Maryland blue crabs : )
>|
>| \_><{{{{">_/ Whole Fish Soup!!
>| [Notice how the eyes follow you around the room!]
>|
>| [::] [::] [::] [::] Fig Newtons
>|
>| (#) (#) (#) Warm Peanut butter cookies
>|
>| \--------/ Chicken soup for all your sick friends
>|
>| (@) (@) (@) Fresh Cinnamon Rolls!
>|
>| OooOOoOooO Onion rings
>|
>| [:::] [:::] [:::] French toast sticks with powdered sugar
>|
>| =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D# Celery
>|
>| \__/ \__/ Chinese Take Out
>|
>| \ ) ) ) ) ) / (~~~~~) Chips and Dip
>|
>| @@@@ (_) (_) (_) Chocolate Chip cookies and Moo juice ;)
>|
>| (|=3D=3D=3D|)(|=3D=3D=3D|) Hot dogs
>|
>| (m) (m) (_) (_) M&M's and Koolaid
>|
>| o o o o o Single AND O O O O O Double Stuff Oreos!
>|
>| <) <) <) <) <) Pizza!
>|
>| c(__) c(__) Steaming mugs of hot cocoa!
>|
>| //
>| (****) RootBeer Float!
>| \ /
>| l__I
>|
>| [|||]D [|||]D Root Beer!
>|
>| (_)D (_)D Freshly brewed coffee!
>|
>| [_]D [_]D Ice cold (root) beer!
>|
>| [Y] [Y] Champagne!
>|
>| \%/ Martini!
>|
>
>--------- End forwarded message ----------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
If anyone tried to send me anything over the last three days, it is
gone. I downloaded my e-mail yesterday after having the computer in the shop
all weekend, and then lost the system totally. Tried to maintain airspeed,
but smelled smoke inside the case. Crashed and burned. Then the inevitable...
WARNING, ALL DATA ON NON-REMOVABLE DISK
DRIVE C: WILL BE LOST!
Proceed with Format (Y/N) ?
This has not been a very productive day, but it was an expensive one...
If it was important, send it again.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | RE: Wing Fuel Tanks |
Getting in on this a little late but...
PVC isn't totally inert to gas and over time the PVC will get brittle and/or
leak. IMO PVC aesthetically shouts No-Way. As for looong wing tanks, there
are noted accidents in the old days of fuel in such tanks getting thrown
to the outside by centrifugal force during a spin, the result being
inability to stop the spin -- bummer :-/. I doubt if you could make a
large enf spar tank for this to be a real problem, but it should be thought
out if the spar tank idea were pursued further. Ron's potential "down end"
weight problem could be bad too I'd think. I think inaccessibility of the
tank for repair/replacent/cleaning are problems too, especially noting that
a tank inside the spar would have to be protected from all the rivet stubs.
I'd rather just build and mount a separate pair of small tanks in the first
wing rib section, mounted just behind the spar. But then there are vent
spillage
problems to consider in the folded mode, this just a minor, fixable problem
tho.
-Ben "party pooper" Ransom
PS: don't think i didn't at least look inside those spars and scratch my
head just a little myself :-)
At 05:42 AM 1/27/98 UT, you wrote:
>I would worry about the gas moving to the "down end" of the tube tanks
during
>an uncoordinated turn, causing a serious off balance condition. Remember,
gas
>weighs about 6 pounds/gal. Are the ailerons are powerful enough to roll
the
>airplane back to a wing level condition if several pounds (say 15 to 20 lb.)
>of fuel are a few feet off the CG??? In a perfectly coordinated turn,
>theoretically, the fuel would NOT slosh to the "down end" of the tube tank,
>however I would not count on being able to avoid the off CG condition.
>
>Other thoughts anyone??
>Ron Christensen
>MKIII 1/2
>N313DR
>
>----------
>From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com on behalf of Richard Pike
>Sent: Friday, January 23, 1998 6:56 PM
>To: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
>Cc: kolb(at)www.intrig.com
>Subject: Re: Re[2]: Wing Fuel Tanks
>
>At 04:12 PM 1/23/98 cst, you wrote:
>>
>> While building I had joked about putting tubes of large diameter PVC
>> pipe in the wing spar tubes (once their drilled) as Aux fuel tanks.
>>
>> Any comments:
>>
>> Yeah, use lots of sealer where the lift strut bolts go thru...
> Actually , if you could figure out a way to pad them from all the rivits,
>and just made them from the root rib to the lift strut bolt, it is probably
>a good idea. The formula for the volume of a cylinder is Volume
>pi x radius squared x height. If you used a 5" pipe 72" long, that is 1472
>cubic inches a side. One gallon of gas takes up 231 cubic inches, or just
>over 6 gallons a side. Not bad. Let us know how it works.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P(42oldpoops)
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> |
| Subject: | test note, discard |
discard vm note
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Lack <Doug.Lack(at)bentley.com> |
Try this:
http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/spruce/pages.cgi/page46?
See Strut Cover - $27.50. You might make it work.
Douglas
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Gerken [SMTP:gerken(at)us.ibm.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 1998 1:30 PM
> To: Kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject:
>
> Does anyone know where I might find some Streamline material, probably
> plastic
> snap-on type, and I want it big enough to enclose a 1.5" round object
> (insulated heater hose)?
> Thanks!
>
> Jim Gerken
> 507-253-2454
>
>
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Re[2]: Wing Fuel Tanks |
> I would worry about the gas moving to the "down end" of the tube tanks during
> an uncoordinated turn, causing a serious off balance condition. Remember, gas
> weighs about 6 pounds/gal.
On the MK 3 and FS series the steel H section at the strut location
would limit the tank to the inside part of the tube...unless you're
considering sealing and using the whole tube.
> Are the ailerons are powerful enough to roll the
> airplane back to a wing level condition if several pounds (say 15 to 20 lb.)
> of fuel are a few feet off the CG??? In a perfectly coordinated turn,
> theoretically, the fuel would NOT slosh to the "down end" of the tube tank,
> however I would not count on being able to avoid the off CG condition.
>
> Other thoughts anyone??
>
> Ron Christensen
Ron's argument is compelling. I wouldn't do it. What I'd rather have
is a custom tank that has a half round saddle in it to fit over the
fuse tube in the normal position. This would get the tank down lower
and would provide a sump and a limited anti-slosh feature. Negative
side is that the fuel pump would have to work harder to pull the fuel
up higher. It's about at the maximum draw height for the pulse pump
as it is.
On the topic of aileron power....
January 06, 1998 - January 27, 1998
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ak