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.007", the rear .003" before adjustment. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >I'm getting closer with my Original Firestar. The engine has never >been run, and I'm trying to decide if I should go to the expense of >conversion to CDI. I talked to Airscrew Performance, in Glendale, AZ, >and they tell me that their CDI conversion idles at zero degrees >advance and advances to 25-degrees at full throttle. This, they >claim, gives a very smooth idle as well as the power that goes along >with advanced ignition, plus never having to adjust points and timing >forever. Their price is $275 plus freight. The mod must be done by >them, because it cannot be done by the owner (they don't sell parts or >kits). > >My question to the list is: are you aware of other companies that do >this mod or sell kits for the mod? Also, are their prices and features >comparable to what Airscrew claims for their's? A couple of guys on >this list have stated that the mod is really not necessary because the >point ignition on the 377 (and all other older Rotax engines) is >pretty good, not giving much trouble, and the adjustment isn't too >tough. > >Ron Carroll >Original Firestar >Oregon > > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: TRAILERS
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Apr 23, 1998
Mark, I bought one of these trailers years ago when I built my original FireStar. It's a 4'x8' without a tiltable bed. I trailer everytime I fly because I store it in the garage. I added a 3/4" plywood floor on the bed with wide slots cut in the front for the FS wheels (It's nose forward). I have another square hole cut beside the slots to wrap tiedowns around the gear legs of the plane and through the trailer bed (very secure). I made a pedestal board with a cradle cut for the fuse tube at the very rear. I lined it with a piece of rug to protect the tube. The bottom of the pedestal is hinged with one from a barn-door (a little over-design, but you want it strong). The wings do hang over by many feet. Underneath the rear of the trailer bed reinforce it with 2x4. When loading and unloading, the rear of the trailer must be contacting the ground with a prop under the tongue and the wheels chocked. The trailer also folds in half and is stored in this single car garage with the plane. This trailer is made in Taiwan, but it's now 11 years old. I travel 6 miles to a private strip then I unload and set up. It serves me well for year 'round flying. The nice part about this trailer is that it is small and does not take up much space when folded up. For a real x-country open trailer talk to Ray Lujon on the Kolb list. It's the best! Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >I'm thinking about buying a utility trailer at Lowe's or Menard's and >am >wondering if it could be modified later to trailer a Mark III. The >available sizes are 4.3' x 8', 5' x 8', and 5.3' x 8' with all the >beds >being "tiltable". Obviously, the trailer would have to be lengthened >to >accomodate a Kolb. Also I would only be trailering short distances (< >5 >miles). Has anyone ever tried this? > >Hope to purchase KIT #1 of a Mark III at Oshkosh this summer if Dennis >will give me a good deal (hope he's listening). > > >Mark Rinehart >"former AF Instructor Pilot and Mark III BFI wanna-be" >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: Apr 23, 1998
Subject: Re: Propeller Thrust and Trailers
> Hirth 2704 max RPM 5200, max torque 4750, propped with Warp three > blade set at 18 degrees pitch, cruising at 60-65 at 3600 RPM, > Hirth G27 gearbox at 2.55:1. Prop RPM 1400. > > What is the rated HP at your cruise setting and what is your prop > diameter? It would be interesting to see how eff your warp drive prop > is. Probably not that efficient. Just a big engine with good torque. 625cc, 66 in Warp taper blade. The charts say 25 hp at 3600 RPM but who knows if that's right...torque is 40 lb/ft at 3600 RPM....the only thing that looks good from the charts is that the fuel consumption is dead on. The Hirth fuel graphs are made with the engine loaded to make a specific RPM at full throttle and then load is added, still at full throttle, and another fuel flow reading is taken. They intimate I should be getting better partial throttle fuel rates than I am (3.5 gph) but doesn't look that way. > > I would like to here more about the hirth set up, I have heard so many > rumours about hirths that it would be nice to hear how a user likes it. > I still have to choose which of these "engines" to use. Bottom line in using a Hirth....if you don't want to experiment with engine/muffler mountings and would prefer a stock set-up, go with a Rotax, a fine engine. I like mine exceedingly well despite the rumblings of those who hate them. No ill has come to pass in 120 hrs of use. I run 100:1 oil, and have from the start. EGT's are kept high (1100 or better at cruise), CHTs are 320 at cruise. JB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: Re[2]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark
Prefers >Cavu had enquired about the selection of oil and de-carbon cycles. My >reply follows...... > > > > Along with this, I advocate 100:1 oils. Why >folks are reluctant to use them is anyone's guess. > > > Great info, makes good sense, thanks. One the thing about 100:1 oils, broke in my Rotax 277 on Amsoil at 50:1, then gradually "weaned" it back to 100:1. It ran fine, but it rattled. None of us could find any problems, but it was loose. After we changed the ratio back to 50:1 it got quiet, and had close to 600 trouble free hours when I sold it. Question: is it possible that the 50:1 oil ratio is necessary to attain an adaquite film thickness to keep the bearings within clearance tolerance? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 377 CDI conversion
>I'm getting closer with my Original Firestar. The engine has never >been run, and I'm trying to decide if I should go to the expense of >conversion to CDI. > A couple of guys on >this list have stated that the mod is really not necessary because the >point ignition on the 377 (and all other older Rotax engines) is >pretty good, not giving much trouble, and the adjustment isn't too >tough. > >Ron Carroll >Original Firestar >Oregon > > CDI is great when it works. Points are great when they work. When points start to go bad, they give ample warning. When CDI goes bad, IMHO (and experience), you get minimal warning. So I guess it all boils down to... Do you like surprises? :} Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: Apr 24, 1998
Subject: Lubrication education......
For those so inclined, here is a tech site worth looking at concerning oils.... http://www.lubrizol.com/referencelibrary/lubtheory/index.htm Jim Baker Pres, USUA Club 104 Frontier Ultralight Aviators Oklahoma City ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: lubrication experience
I have used a few different oils in 2-strokes over the years: Penzoil, Honda stock oil, Yamalube2, Stihl, others... For six years I owned/operated a water- cooled 250 on an ATV. This machine saw the hardest use you can imagine, even exceeding the abuse the average chainsaw engine endures. It was asked to run to competition-levels in 100 degrees F, down to 0 degrees, on ice, in mud, in rain, crossing rivers submerged, in the sand dunes, and all the while just as hard as it can be ridden. Many modifications were made to the machine to keep up with the weaknesses that surfaced. After four years (probably 350 hours), the compression was measured and engine (top end only) was reworked as preventative maintenance. Actually the Shop manual requested piston replacement after 30 hours of "racing use", but who reads those things anyway!? The compression measured 150 lbs. Before the overhaul, and after break-in of the new piston/rings/cylinder bored over .010" (same compression!). This taught me don't use compression readings to judge wear. There was minimal wear, enough to require the slighly oversized piston after boring and ball- honing for plateau finish. It also taught me I was definitely using the correct oil! This engine was started out new on Honda 2-stroke oil. I bought a case and returned most of it for credit, it was like waste oil, thick and it burned like tar, lots of build-up and fouled plugs. Two of us switched to a popular SYTHETIC "racing" 2-stroke oil sold at the moto-cross tracks and mail order for about 20 dollars / gallon at that time. We used a 40:1 mix. The experience with that synthetic oil taught me I'd never go back. I started using it in everthing (chainsaw, weedwacker, lawnmower, margurita-blender). It has kept my engines protected and clean for eight years. I am sorry to report I had to say goodbye to my favorite oil (Bel-Ray MC-1+), because the price has risen to around 36 dollars / gallon. I have started using AMSOIL now, also in all the same toys. I have gotten around the high cost of synthetics by establishing a commercial account with Amsoil, and ordering it direct (NO, I AM NOT A DEALER), which gets me the lowest cost available (for what I believe is the highest quality line of lubricants available). This was not meant to be a sales pitch, and I agree with whoever said: "Use what you are comfortable with" and I would add: "Don't forget that air filter!!!" because assuming clean fuel+oil, the only other path into your valued Rotax combustion chamber is the air passing thru the carb. Keep it clean and you are buying hundreds of hours of safety. jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: 100:1 Oils
I have been using Amsoil at about 90:1 ratio for 9 years on 5 different Rotaxes, a 277, (2)377's, a 447 and a 503. I have had no problems that could have been related to oil. My props and tails do not get an oil film, but I still need to de-carbon. John Jung Firestar For Sale http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rinehart, Mark W." <Mark.W.Rinehart(at)Allison.com>
Subject: TRAILERS
Date: Apr 24, 1998
What's the width between the main wheels of a Mark III? Mark Rinehart System Performance and Controls Allison Engine Company Ph: (317) 230-2567 Fax: (317) 230-3691 Email: Mark.W.Rinehart(at)Allison.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 377 CDI conversion
Richard, You make a very good point here. I like my 503 with dual CDI, but I don't think that I would give up a single point ignition for a single CDI. John Jung > >Richard Pike wrote: > > CDI is great when it works. Points are great when they work. When > points start to go bad, they give ample warning. When CDI goes bad, IMHO > (and experience), you get minimal warning. So I guess it all boils down to... > > Do you like surprises? :} > > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Trailers, width of Mkiii
OUTSIDE track width is 78", assuming no extra bends in your gear legs. The Wheels are 6 inches wide, plus an inch for hyd brakes if present. So inside might be around 64-66". The reason I mention the gear legs issue is you may wish to make your trailer usable even on that fateful day you need to haul home your plane after bending the legs (wish I had done that, damm taillites). jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Date: Apr 24, 1998
Subject: Re: TRAILERS
In a message dated 4/24/98 5:49:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Mark.W.Rinehart(at)Allison.com writes: << What's the width between the main wheels of a Mark III? >> I set my gear lega a little wide. But from the outside edge of the tires it is 6'6". That could be shortened if youfelt like it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
Here is an update on the progress of testing my new Firestar II. Previously I had said that it didn't seem to be as good as my original Firestar. Well it is a lot better now that I let the throttle open all the way. I can't believe that after 10 years of maintaining my own planes, I made a beginner type mistake on the throttle. Now it is outperforming the 377 and using only slightly over 2 gph. I managed to fly in some smooth air and check my airspeeds. The II stalls at 38 mph true which is 7 mph faster than my original. Does anyone know how much the stall speed can be reduced by lowering the ailerons? The brakes are working better. For some reason, new Kolb drum brakes seem to work better after they get used for a while. This is my second set, and neither work good at first. The biggest problem is noise. I either need better ear protection or I have to find a way to reduce the noise. I even tried the same Warp Drive prop that was quiet on the other plane and it was still to loud. Someone suggested a intake silencer. Any other ideas for noise reduction? Which are the most significant? John Jung SE Wisconsin Firestar II N6163J Original Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "merle hargis" <merlepilar(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: maintenance & repair
Date: Apr 24, 1998
I am looking for a good maintenance & repair manual for Rotax 447 engine Any suggestions? Thanks Merle from Orlando ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: TRAILERS
>What's the width between the main wheels of a Mark III? > > >Mark Rinehart >System Performance and Controls >Allison Engine Company >Ph: (317) 230-2567 >Fax: (317) 230-3691 >Email: Mark.W.Rinehart(at)Allison.com >- The width between the wheels of the one in my garage (measured 2" up from the floor) is 64 1/2". Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: TRAILERS
>What's the width between the main wheels of a Mark III? > > >Mark Rinehart >System Performance and Controls >Allison Engine Company >Ph: (317) 230-2567 >Fax: (317) 230-3691 >Email: Mark.W.Rinehart(at)Allison.com >- CORRECTION!!!!! The distance between the wheels of my MKIII: CENTERLINE to CENTERLINE is 70". My previous post of 64 1/2" is the width BETWEEN the wheels, inside to inside, but after thinking it over, reconsidered that the answer I gave was not to the question you asked...? Hope this makes sense. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: maintenance & repair
Merle, The CPS (California Power Systems) catalog works for me. John Jung > >merle hargis wrote: > > I am looking for a good maintenance & repair manual for Rotax 447 engine > Any suggestions? > > Thanks > > Merle from Orlando ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: maintenance & repair
>I am looking for a good maintenance & repair manual for Rotax 447 engine >Any suggestions? > >Thanks > >Merle from Orlando >- > The CPS catalog, the LEAF catalog, and some good free stuff at http://www.ultralightnews.com Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com
Date: Apr 24, 1998
Subject: Re: oil
Hi Jim, The CHT's are 210 degr and the EGT's are 1125-1175 degr @5000rpm cruise, with an average 75 degr outside temperature in Central California. Frank R > I was surprised to > find only light carbon build up on the pistons and some on the top of the > trapezoid rings that I removed with a razorblade and vacuum. The cylinder > head was completely clean and only needed wiping off. At this rate I hope > to get 300 hrs again before a complete decarbonizing service is required. > Needless to say that I will continue to use AV-2. Now, tell us what your EGT's are at cruise. Thanks, JB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
Less rpm would be quieter, but the 503 powered Firestar II seems to need 5000 rpm to keep me 15 mph over stall, while the original Firestar 377 flys at 23 over stall at 4500 rpm. Flying too close to stall make me more uncomfortable than the noise. If I can't solve this problem, I'll sell the new plane and keep the old. John Jung > >Richard Pike wrote: > > > I tried a 2-blade Warp Drive prop on the MKIII and it was MUCH > noisier than the Ivo. (a friend that lives a mile away commented that it > sounded different and much louder on the day I was testing and wanted to > know if something was wrong!) Perhaps if I had tried a 3-blade it would have > been quieter? > The next best way to reduce noise is run the engine slower. > (Probably not what you wanted to hear) > > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Dual CDI Rotax
I like the dual CDI on my 503 is easy starting, idles well, and can decend at reduced power settings without loading up. I have flown with a 277, two 377's, and a 447, and while they all were good runners, none of them ran as nice as the 503 Dual Ignition does. And it's not burning much fuel either. John Jung ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Apr 24, 1998
Subject: Re[2]: oil - What's Seafoam Treatment
OK, what's the Seafoam treatment? ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: oil Date: 4/23/98 5:49 PM Richard and all, I think you guys should check into using Klotz, the all-synthetic oil. There is a guy that has been using it on his Rotax 377 with prem unleaded gas and has put well over 300 hrs on it before having it checked. The teardown revealed very little wear and it was clean. I switched over and my plugs are the cleanest I've ever seen. I don't bother to even check them anymore. Using this and the Seafoam treatment should make it very reliable. I'll keep you posted. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >Out here in the Hooterville Mountains of East Tennessee, most >all of us have been using Phillips Injex 2-stroke oil for a long time, no >seizures, but the rings need cleaning every hundred hours. >The Phillips distributor has moved out of town, and I was just >leaving to go buy a case of Pennzoil when here comes this info that it >also gunks up the rings. >Once again, it looks like experience may be the best (and only >reliable) teacher. >P.S. Can anybody tell me if the MKIII wheels and bearings are >the same as the Firestar wheels and bearings? > > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Apr 24, 1998
Subject: Re[4]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers
Here's my 2 cents based upon observation only. I lack true experience comfortable with 2-stokes. Mark runs his engines at high RPMs. He indicated most people try to run the Rotax at to low of RPM's and lug/load down the engines. Said they'll run solid forever at the higher end using good oil and they stay clean at the high RPM. He claims he's gets over 1000 hours on his engines without doing decarboning or other maintenance. Told me about the one seizure he had (or at least he admits to). Happened on takeoff from a low altitude airport after rejetting for better performance at high altitude. Mark typically flies at 12.5K cross country. Claimed even then it didn't hurt the engine. Said the oil he uses saved it. Inspected it, rejetted and went on. Never done anything to the engine after that. If you ever seen the terrain he flies over at his home base, you put a lot of trust in the engine. There just isn't any good place to land. What I seen is keep the RPM's up, use a good quality oil, and keep the EGT temps up but not so high to cook the engine. The good oil does it job lubing the engine and the higher EGT temps burn it out and eject it. He says don't pamper them. Jerry ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Re[2]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers Date: 4/23/98 8:29 AM In a message dated 4/23/98 5:56:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com writes: << My conversations directly with Mark Brierle indicate just the opposite regarding the use of Pennzoil. I also have a ThunderGull kit so I have personally talked to Mark just a few times. >> I will gladly stand corrected on the pennzoil point. I have heard from a number of sources that Brierly runs 503s well beyond the 300 hour tbo indicated in the manuals. I've also heard from a number of sources that he is a very smart guy. I'm just too chicken to do anything other than what the manual says. I have talked with Phil Lockwood about the 150 hour decarbon. As I recall he wanted something like $150.00 for the service and said that he thought it made alot of sense not only to check the rings but to do a general inspection. I think there is some freeplay in the reduction drive that should be looked at too. Anyway, given that I have a friend who recently paid $100.00 just to have the battery replaced in his cherokee 6 (he supplied the battery himself) having a factory authorised guy look your 503 engine over for that kind of money seems like a good deal. I think we all recognise that 2 strokes are different than lycomings. I would be very interested in the experiences that other folks in the group have had with varying from the factory recomended service regime. The problem with this sort of discussion is that for every guy I talk to who says he uses X brand of oil and this gas and he's got 500 hours with cylinder walls that look like new and spotless rings, I run into another guy who says he was using the same stuff and he seized after 50 hours or even worse, seized during the break-in. My brother used to talk about taking the 0-360 in his Cardinal to 2500 hours. 500 beyond tbo. Then he had a kid. Just because there are some lucky folks out there whose engines run great doesn't mean its right for the rest of us. When I drop my toast in the morning it always lands buttered side down. I try to fly with that in mind. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Date: Apr 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Airspeed
writes: << always read any where from 1 to 10 knots difference and we have 4 pitot tubes and 2 static ports the pilot uses what he observes on his airspeed indicator and this is in aircraft that cost about $37,000,000. This is the same with the altimeter, three of these also. The bottom line is use what you see on your aircraft and mark it. The only time airspeed is important is on take off and landing, if you know what speed your Kolb stalls at thats important. FRANK J. MARINO Chief Loadmaster 773 AS >> Good thread Frank.............I gotta get at least one ASI....know any source for me?.....GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
Eugene Zimmerman wrote: > snip > > The biggest problem is noise. I either need better ear protection or > >I have to find a way to reduce the noise. I even tried the same Warp > >Drive prop that was quiet on the other plane and it was still to loud. > >Someone suggested a intake silencer. Any other ideas for noise > >reduction? Which are the most significant? > >John Jung > >SE Wisconsin > >Firestar II N6163J > >Original Firestar > > You might try the prop extention, or spacer to set the prop farther from > the TE > of the wing. I beleive you can order them from Kolb or your prop > supplier.Most of the noise is the prop noise. Ever notice how quiet some > tracter props are? They turn in clean air with no near by air frame members. > My quess is that your 377 had more prop clearance to the trailing edge. > Check it out and let us know. > > EZ > Thanks, Eugene. That is one variable that I was forgetting. I have an extension on the IVO and with the right length prop bolts, I could test the extension on the Warp. I'll report on it, if I do. John Jung ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
Larry, Thanks for the tip. Because of your suggestion, I will be ordering an intake silencer. John Jung > >Larry Cottrell wrote: > > >Group, > > Here is what I think is wrong with my Firestar II as it is currently > >set up. The "quiet" cruise speed is too close to the stall speed. I am > >comparing it with an original Firestar with a 377. The original can > >cruise at 23 mph over stall at a "quiet" rpm. If the rpms on the 503 > >powered Firestar II are lowered to the same sound level, I am only 5 mph > >over stall. The Firestar II currently has a three blade IVO with 62" > >dia., but I will be testing the same two blade 66" Warp that I used to > >have on the 377. I will report my findings. > >John Jung > >- > > > John, > I have a 447 on my firestar II with a 68 IVO prop. The noise is pretty > bad. I put a intake silencer on it and it made a lot of difference with the > noise level. It cost me two horsepower they say but it is well worth the > loss for the quiet. I realize that this isn't what you are saying here but I > thought that perhaps the reason that you were shutting it down is so that > your ears weren't ringing. Before I used earplugs and a helmet, and it was > still loud. I tried a headset with a radio and couldn't hear the tower well > enough to talk to them. Now a Sig. headset is plenty, no ringing after flying. > Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: After-muffler
Group, Has anyone tried an after-muffler on their Rotax? Is it worth while for noise reduction? John Jung SE Wisconsin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
> >...I have to find a way to reduce the noise. I even tried the same Warp >Drive prop that was quiet on the other plane and it was still to loud. This is interesting John, is there much difference in the distance between the prop and trailing edge of the wing of the FSI compared to the FSII? -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rinehart, Mark W." <Mark.W.Rinehart(at)Allison.com>
Subject: Trailer Decision
Date: Apr 25, 1998
Thanks to all for the input on Mark III wheelbase and use of utility trailers. Unfortunately, I was unable to find a utility trailer wide enough to accomodate the Mk III wheelbase of 6 1/2 ft. I was planning on buying a utility trailer anyway for hauling home improvement items around and was hoping down the road it might double as an ultralight trailer. I'll talk to Dennis at Oshkosh about the trailer he's working on. Thanks again. Mark Rinehart "MK III BFI wanna be" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 1998
Subject: Re: Re[4]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
On Fri, 24 Apr 98 16:53:04 cst jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com writes: > >...He [Mark Brierly] claims he's gets over 1000 hours on his engines without doing > decarboning or other maintenance. I passed on replying to this quote the first time but twice posted is just too much! Jerry, please remember that the source of your information is coming from someone who sells a very high performance UL (Titan stretches that definition quite a bit). I suspect that the target market for Titan is primarily GA customers who are looking for something that flies like a 172 but costs like a Lawnboy to operate. Alleviating the inherent fear of 2-strokes helps Mark's business. Caveat Emptor! (Buyer Beware!) IMHO (In My Humble Opinion), anyone claiming 1000 hours without even a decarbon on any 2-stroke (including weedeaters and chainsaws) is one of three things: 1) The owner of a defective Hobbs meter. 2) The luckiest person alive since OJ or; 3) Is absolutely telling the truth! (But I'd still like some corroborating testimony from someone not employed by or related to him.) I'm not saying it can't be done but it sounds pretty outlandish to me. I've heard these sort of claims before but they always fade pretty quick when dragged from the hangar into the light of day. It's also possible that putting 1000 hours on a 2-stroke engine in a short period of calendar time, such as a 'demo' plane might, would be much less hard on it than the way most of us do it, grabbing an hour or two here and there between trivial things like work, weather, family obligations, winter, and so forth. Opinions from these type operators just might be more useful and accurate. You can forward this to Mark if you'd like, I'd love to learn the secret of the 1000 hour maintenance-free 2-stroke first hand! Meantime, I'll be doing the recommended maintenance from the engine manufacturer. -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com>
Subject: Pictures from Sun-n-fun
Date: Apr 25, 1998
I've placed 58 pictures on http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981 and http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982 There's a picture of Dennis flying the Laser, for example, on http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00004.jpg There's a picture of me in the left seat of the Griffin Aerospace Lionheart (Staggerwing Beech replica) on http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00025.jpg through http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00028.jpg (I did hold is straight and level for a bit and did some shallow turns, but its a bit of a stretch to say I really flew it.) In the next few days I'll send a message with information on what's in each picture, but those with fast internet connections and time on their hands are welcome to browse... I'll also say a bit more about the two other aircraft I "flew". ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: Apr 25, 1998
Subject: Re: oil
Frank says..... > > Needless to say that I will continue to use AV-2. > Now, tell us what your EGT's are at cruise. > Thanks, > JB > Hi Jim, > The CHT's are 210 degr and the EGT's are 1125-1175 degr @5000rpm cruise, > with an average 75 degr outside temperature in Central California. > > Frank R Thanks.... And I maintain that Frank's success is due in large part to maintaining a high EGT. Those of you who run at 1075 and below aren't doing your engines any favors. JB Jim Baker Pres, USUA Club 104 Frontier Ultralight Aviators Oklahoma City ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TWORMSLEY(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net
Date: Apr 25, 1998
Subject: Firestsr II wing rib
I am currently building the jig for the wing rib and have come across a problem. The plans show the widest point for the rib at 7 1/16", but I measure 7 1/4". Since the plans are supposed to be to scale and all the other measurements seem to be correct I was wondering if this is a miss print. I have already e-mailed kolb ,but was hoping to get an answer before Mon. THANKS ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: oil - What's Seafoam Treatment
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Apr 25, 1998
Jerry, Seafoam is a gasoline additive made for all types of engines to remove carbon buildup. It has been around since the '40's and I learned about it recently. I poured a couple of capfuls into my 377 sparkplug ports and it belched out white smoke for 10 minutes during warmup. If it's getting rid of the carbon like it says, I'll be pleased. It says you can add directly to your gas tank, but this stuff is potent and I don't care to experiment with it eating the pump diaphragm or anything else. For those of you who have met Al Reay (he flew the pretty yellow Titan from MN to Sun-N-Fun this year), he's the guy that told me about Seafoam. He used it extensively in his Rotax's on his x-country flights. Al is a 2-cycle engine expert and he wouldn't recommend something he wouldn't use himself. I'll be using the Seafoam treatment from now on a regular basis. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar On Fri, 24 Apr 98 17:03:32 cst jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com writes: > OK, what's the Seafoam treatment? >Subject: Re: oil >Author: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) at MAILGATE >Date: 4/23/98 5:49 PM > > >Richard and all, > >I think you guys should check into using Klotz, the all-synthetic oil. >There is a guy that has been using it on his Rotax 377 with prem >unleaded gas and has put well over 300 hrs on it before having it checked. The >teardown revealed very little wear and it was clean. I switched over >and my plugs are the cleanest I've ever seen. I don't bother to even check >them anymore. Using this and the Seafoam treatment should make it very >reliable. I'll keep you posted. > >Ralph Burlingame >Original FireStar > > > >writes: >>Out here in the Hooterville Mountains of East Tennessee, most >>all of us have been using Phillips Injex 2-stroke oil for a long time, >>no seizures, but the rings need cleaning every hundred hours. >>The Phillips distributor has moved out of town, and I was just >>leaving to go buy a case of Pennzoil when here comes this info that >>it also gunks up the rings. Once again, it looks like experience may be the >>best (and only reliable) teacher. >>P.S. Can anybody tell me if the MKIII wheels and bearings are >>the same as the Firestar wheels and bearings? >> >> Richard Pike >> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 1998
From: "Henry C. Wortman" <hwortman(at)mail.datasys.net>
Subject: Battery Hot
The last several times I have noticed that my battery seems unusually hot after flying. The power plant is a 503 DCDI. Is this normal? The lower part of the battery seems to be the hottest almost to the point of not being able to hold your finger on it. What was the weather like when the fatality occurred at F&S? I was there on Sunday and they were flying in pretty stiff xwinds. They finally put up the red flag after a slight mishap. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: UL DAD <ULDAD(at)aol.com>
Date: Apr 25, 1998
Subject: Looking for Russell Duffey
Hey Russell: Want to ask you something about your Slingshot but can't find your e-mail address. Post it here and I'll write you. Thanks. Bill Griffin Montgomery Al. Original Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 1998
From: Clive Hatcher <CliveHatcher(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Events - Denver, CO
Hi All, Does anyone know of any Kolb or Ultralight fly-ins / events in the Denver= , CO area around May 16 thru 19 ? I shall be on a short visit to USA in May and would like to have a look a= t the lighter end of aviation on your side of the " The Pond ". Clive Hatcher, Twinstar III - G - MYLN Thurning, Peterborough (70 miles north of London), England. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: Apr 26, 1998
Subject: Re: Looking for Russell Duffey
> Hey Russell: Want to ask you something about your Slingshot but can't find > your e-mail address. Post it here and I'll write you. Thanks. > > Bill Griffin Hi Bill, I'm hiding up here in Cleveland, OH for a few weeks at a company training course. You would think they would eventually learn that I'm untrainable (as my wife has). Anyway, my normal e-mail address is "rad(at)pen.net" and is being forwarded to my company account "rduffy(at)svc.picker.com" while I'm up here. Either will work, but the rad address is probably preferred in the long run. As for SS questions, ask away. Hopefully, it'll be something I can answer from memory, since I don't have the plans or plane here to look at. I joked about flying it to Cleveland, but wouldn't really consider that. One day I'll fly the RV-8A up here though :-) Rusty Budgetel Inn 216-442-8400 rm-302 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MJWAY <MJWAY(at)aol.com>
Date: Apr 26, 1998
Subject: Wheel Bearings
Back on April 20 I said that I would disassemble and examine my removed wheel bearings. The balls and the outer race ball tracks were not too bad, although far from the nice bright polished surfaces that they had when new. The ball tracks in all the inner races were trashed and very much widened toward one side of the race. The original track width was about .160 inches while the new trashed track was about .200 wide and about to run off the available race width in the direction of the wear. If the wear had gone much farther I would have had the same type of catastrophic failure that Bill Varnes wrote about on March 31 when he reported, small inner race moved inward to center of axle. My personal conclusions are: 1. Next time the axle nuts need be tightened I am going to conclude the bearings are going bad. 2. Next time I pull a wheel and hand check the in place bearings I am going to be carefully checking for axial play of the inner race relative to the outer race. Seems to me that there is no reason that wider flanged bearings (yes I know they would add weight) of the same ID/OD could be used. Perhaps something with two rows of balls and thus much more capacity/durability. I know that I should get off my duff and contact some bearing houses. Just keep hoping someone else has already done the work. Chris Wayland PS. Southern CA weather on 17 and 18 April was just gorgeous and I got 4 hrs of flying time. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
> ><< Where did you get the 6800 rpm number? Max hp. is at 6500rpm and max Howdy Gang: Here's what has worked b est for me since I started building and flying these things in 1984: I prop an airplane just like I do a boat. If the red line is 6800 rpm, then I will adjust the pitch until I can achieve 6800 rpm, WOT, straight and level flight. This gives me best climb and best cruise performance from the engine and my EGTs will remain within the green arc. One exception is with the 912, which is redlined at 6800 for five minutes and 6500 for continuous duty. I prop it for 6500 to 6600 rpm, straight and level flight, WOT. Again, this gives me best climb and cruise. john ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com>
Subject: Sun-n-fun pictures w/ index
Date: Apr 26, 1998
Here is a description of some of the pictures I took at Sun-n-fun. The unidentified ones are of planes or areas on which I don't recall the details, or subjects somewhat duplicative with identified photos. http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00001.jpg is John Hauck's Mark III http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00004.jpg is Dennis in the Kolb Laser http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00005.jpg is Homer Kolb behind the Laser cage http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00006.jpg is John Hauck's instrument panel http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00007.jpg is John Hauck's control assembly and radio mount http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00008.jpg Terry Swartz and his wife http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00009.jpg Bill Martin and Doug Lack in front of the Kolb cages http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00014.jpg A Seawind. Their factory is about 5 miles from Kolb http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00018.jpg the Baby Belle Helicopter I flew in (and flew momentarily) http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00019.jpg one of the used parts marts http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00020.jpg one of the kitbuilt helicopters (theirs was not flying at the show) http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00022.jpg Doug in front of a "Sky Arrow" http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00023.jpg a Fisher Classic, I think http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00024.jpg inside the "flying RV" kitplane (I forgot the name of the company) http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00025.jpg Doug with Pushy Galore http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00026.jpg The Griffin Aerospace Lionheart, with Larry French (their President,) and Gordy their test pilot. http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00027.jpg Gordy and me and the Lionheart http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00001.jpg The Buckeye Powered Parachutes booth http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00002.jpg The Titan Tornado that Doug and I later flew in http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00003.jpg Me looking at the Titan. The photographer later complained that I didn't warn HIM to suck in his gut before taking pictures... http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00004.jpg preflight orientation for the Titan http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00006.jpg Dan in the company Mark III, another unidentified craft on the ground, me in the Titan in the air http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00009.jpg Doug taking off in the Titan. Its fast, but it doesn't climb like a Kolb... http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00012.jpg Dining facilities for the ultralight / light plane area http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00015.jpg Warbird flight line (the next several pictures are of various warbirds) http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00021.jpg the GlaStar wing folding mechanism http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00023.jpg this Zodiak looks a lot like the Laser to me... http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00025.jpg this time I actually flew in (and briefly flew) the Lionheart http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun982/pic00027.jpg a good overall Lionheart picture ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillU <WillU(at)aol.com>
Date: Apr 26, 1998
Subject: Drill Guide
Last week I was looking for a replacement for my rivet gun that finally gave out. While at Sears I found a Drill Guide used for automatic exact centering of tubes for repetitive drilling and exact depth control. Needless to say I had to get it. http://members.aol.com/guillermou/71.jpg BTW: On my way to work I stopped by Tim Loehrke's neighborhood and bummed a ride on his FireStar II. His airplane flies great. I took some pictures and added them to my web page, just click on Tim Loehrke's airplane picture. I wore my integrating sound level meter while flying in Tim's FireStar II and it register an average level of 118.5 dB(A). The problem with this measurement was my camera strap kept hitting the mic so I have to redo the measurement some other time. Just for reference: 140 Decibels, immediate danger to hearing, Jet engine at take off or a gunshot. 125 Decibels, pain threshold, air raid siren, firecracker. 120 Decibels, hearing damage in 7 minutes, rock concert, sandblasting. 115 Decibels, hearing damage in 15 minutes, baby's cry, jet ski. 110 Decibels, hearing damage in 30 minutes, Snowmobile from drivers seat. Wear your hearing protection!!! Will Uribe http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Battery Hot
>The last several times I have noticed that my battery seems unusually >hot after flying. The power plant is a 503 DCDI. Is this normal? The >lower part of the battery seems to be the hottest almost to the point of >not being able to hold your finger on it. > Not normal. It doesn't matter whay kind of powerplant it is, if the battery is too hot to touch, you could have a problem. Check the system with a voltmeter and make sure the regulator/rectifier is not putting out enough to push the battery up to more than 14.5 volts. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[4]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Apr 25, 1998
Mick, One thousand hours on a Rotax? Let's get this man (Mark B.) to tell us first hand if the oil and high rpms is the secret. I'm interested! Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar >On Fri, 24 Apr 98 16:53:04 cst jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com writes: >> >>...He [Mark Brierly] claims he's gets over 1000 hours on his engines >without doing decarboning or other maintenance. I passed on replying to this >>quote the first time but twice posted is just too much! >Jerry, please remember that the source of your information is coming >from someone who sells a very high performance UL (Titan stretches >that definition quite a bit). I suspect that the target market for >Titan is primarily GA customers who are looking for something that >flies like a 172 but costs like a Lawnboy to operate. Alleviating the >inherent fear of 2-strokes helps Mark's business. Caveat Emptor! >(Buyer Beware!) > >IMHO (In My Humble Opinion), anyone claiming 1000 hours without even a >decarbon on any 2-stroke (including weedeaters and chainsaws) is one >of three things: > >1) The owner of a defective Hobbs meter. > >2) The luckiest person alive since OJ or; > >3) Is absolutely telling the truth! (But I'd still like some >corroborating testimony from someone not employed by or related to >him.) > >I'm not saying it can't be done but it sounds pretty outlandish to me. >I've heard these sort of claims before but they always fade pretty >quick when dragged from the hangar into the light of day. > >It's also possible that putting 1000 hours on a 2-stroke engine in a >short period of calendar time, such as a 'demo' plane might, would be >much less hard on it than the way most of us do it, grabbing an hour >or two here and there between trivial things like work, weather, >family obligations, winter, and so forth. Opinions from these type >operators just might be more useful and accurate. > >You can forward this to Mark if you'd like, I'd love to learn the >secret of the 1000 hour maintenance-free 2-stroke first hand! >Meantime, I'll be doing the recommended maintenance from the engine >manufacturer. > >-Mick Fine >Tulsa, Oklahoma >http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair >Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) >http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 1998
From: Cal <cgreen(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: paint
Hi all, I did some painting on my FS this weekend and ran into a problem, I painted the tail and the fiberglass parts. The fiberglass parts turned out great with a nice gloss finish, but the fabric parts has a dull finish, it almost looks like it soaked into the fabric. I have three coats of poly brush (1-brushed 2-sprayed) and four coats of poly spray, I'm using aero-thane white (combination of glacier and insignia) has anyone run into this, or know what I'm doing wrong? Cal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
> >Here's what has worked b est for me since I started building and flying >these things in 1984: > > I prop an airplane just like I do a boat. If the red line is 6800 >rpm, then I will adjust the pitch until I can achieve 6800 rpm, WOT, >straight and level flight. This gives me best climb and best cruise >performance from the engine and my EGTs will remain within the green arc. > > One exception is with the 912, which is redlined at 6800 for five >minutes and 6500 for continuous duty. I prop it for 6500 to 6600 rpm, >straight and level flight, WOT. Again, this gives me best climb and cruise. > I can't argue with the Grand Old Man of distance flying but in my experience If I decrease the pitch to give a higher rpm then my top speed goes down.If I increase pitch the climb decreases but the cruise increases. What causes me to observe this? Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Battery Hot
>>The last several times I have noticed that my battery seems unusually >>hot after flying. The power plant is a 503 DCDI. Is this normal? The >>lower part of the battery seems to be the hottest almost to the point of >>not being able to hold your finger on it. I don't know about Rotax engines but in a car it often means the regulator is gone and it is overcharging the battery. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank, Christie & Frank Hodson" <fchodson(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Hey Scott Bentley...
Date: Apr 26, 1998
I am trying to get a message straight to you. What's the secret? Every message that I send gets denied. I had some thoughts concerning your Sun-N-Fun pictures. Thanks. Franklin E. Hodson III fchodson@bigfoot.com | http://www.bigfoot.com/~fchodson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: mounting pulse fuel pump
After reading one of the better Ultralight pages (Ultralightnews.com) and finding reference to mounting the pulse fuel pump so the pulse port fitting faces downward, I went back to the Rotax Engines Installation manual. Rotax recommends the same thing: mount the pump the "flat way, with the pulse port facing downward". I did not mount mine this way, I mounted it the way the drawing #11 in the Kolb plans shows, with the pulse port fitting facing sideways. Apparently the pulse port fitting has a small pin-hole in it and this is supposed to allow drainage of any accumulating oil. If this oil cannot escape it may cause pump failure (I am paraphrasing from the references) Am I correct to assume that most of us followed plans and the pumps are working OK even though they are mounted on their sides? Or are most of you using the pumps as Rotax recommends? I am considering remounting, is it worth it? Does anyone have an experience? jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com>
Subject: URL problems with my Sun-n-Fun pics
Date: Apr 27, 1998
You're internet provider does not yet have the new stuff for scott.bentley.com (my vanity URL.) Or something else went wrong. You can replace scott.bentley.com with saturn.bentley.com/scott, as in http://saturn.bentley.com/scott/sunnfun981/pic00010.jpg I would appreciate (direct, not post) comments from anyone else with the same problem Please include whatever you know about your internet provider. > -----Original Message----- > From: Larry Davis] > Sent: Sunday, April 26, 1998 8:16 AM > To: Scott Bentley > Subject: Re: Pictures from Sun-n-fun > > Hi, > > I tried to visit your site several times but Netscape says "The server > does not > have a DNS entry". Is there something I did wrong? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Davis" <ldavis(at)netusa1.net>
Date: Apr 27, 1998
Subject: Re: URL problems with my Sun-n-Fun pics
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> Copies to: "'Kolb builders'" Subject: Kolb-List: URL problems with my Sun-n-Fun pics Scott, Works fine this morning. Great pictures! Thanks for putting them up. > You're internet provider does not yet have the new stuff for > scott.bentley.com (my vanity URL.) Or something else went wrong. > > You can replace scott.bentley.com with saturn.bentley.com/scott, as in > http://saturn.bentley.com/scott/sunnfun981/pic00010.jpg > > I would appreciate (direct, not post) comments from anyone else with the > same problem > > Please include whatever you know about your internet provider. > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Larry Davis] > > Sent: Sunday, April 26, 1998 8:16 AM > > To: Scott Bentley > > Subject: Re: Pictures from Sun-n-fun > > > > Hi, > > > > I tried to visit your site several times but Netscape says "The server > > does not > > have a DNS entry". Is there something I did wrong? > > > > > -- Larry Davis Marion, Indiana ldavis(at)netusa1.net http://www.netusa1.net/~ldavis ________________________________________________________________________________ (Netscape Mail Server v1.1) with SMTP id AAA172
From: LLMoore(at)tapnet.net (Lauren L. Moore)
Subject: cutting Lexan..
Date: Apr 27, 1998
There was a discussion on the cutting of Lexan awhile ago, but I didnt see the outcome. I want to shorten my windshield/conopy on my Firestar. Unless there is another way to get into and out of the plane with my long legs without cutting and shortening the lexan, I am going to shorten it by cutting. Perhaps a piano hinge and pop rivits might solve the problem. Any comments from the throng?? Larry in Sussex w/ Firestar @ 3N5
   There was a discussion on the cutting of Lexan awhile ago, but I didnt see the outcome. I want to shorten my windshield/conopy on my Firestar. Unless there is another way to get into and out of the plane with my long legs without cutting and shortening the lexan, I am going to shorten it by cutting. Perhaps a piano hinge and pop rivits might solve the problem. Any comments from the throng?? Larry in Sussex w/ Firestar @ 3N5
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: Painting your airplane with a roller.
Date: Apr 27, 1998
To those of you who painted some or all of your airplane with a roller, did you use 2 coats of polytone? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com
Date: Apr 27, 1998
Subject: Re: After-muffler
John, I installed an aftermuffler when I originally build the MKIII with the 582 and used it for about 30 hrs before removing it permanently. Did not notice much difference from inside or from ground. If you are still interested in one after reading this, I will make you a good deal on it. Frank Reynen http://www.webcom.com/reynen Group, Has anyone tried an after-muffler on their Rotax? Is it worth while for noise reduction? John Jung SE Wisconsin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Painting your airplane with a roller.
Date: Apr 27, 1998
How many of you actually did this? I am considering it myself. Ron Original Firestar -----Original Message----- From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> Date: Monday April 27 1998 7:45 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Painting your airplane with a roller. >To those of you who painted some or all of your airplane with a roller, >did you use 2 coats of polytone? >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Re[6]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
On Mon, 27 Apr 98 12:51:25 cst jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com writes: > >I agree with you if he's actually pulling those hours he's pushing it. > The fact >is he really getting those hours. Again, I'm not saying it's impossible but I would consider Mark's experience to be very much the exception and not the rule. Most operators I know would have done 10 decarbons and 2 major overhauls (top and bottom end) in 1000 hours. >...My self I still don't like the 2-strokes. Just too much tweaking and >to many >things influence a engine out. I also have a problem with the >frequent need to >take things a part. When you disturb things like bearings, your never >know how >long you got. Actually, decarboning doesn't disturb the bearings (unless you count the wrist-pin bearings). Yes, it does kill an afternoon or two (if you work as slow as me) but it's really not as big a job as some folks make it out to be. >Say what you may I'll trust a 4-stroke VW engine much more than a >mucked with >2-stroke. Jerry, I'm not trying to rain on everything (really!) but I wouldn't count on getting 1000 hours out of a VW either! 4-strokes have been known to quit also, often for the same reasons that 2-strokes do. Proper maintenance is still an absolute necessity. I agree, given a choice, we'd all rather be flying 4-strokes. Trouble is, the added weight and expense just can't always be justified. -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 1998
From: skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Re[6]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers
>On Mon, 27 Apr 98 12:51:25 cst jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com writes: >>...My self I still don't like the 2-strokes. Just too much tweaking and >>Say what you may I'll trust a 4-stroke VW engine much more than a >>mucked with >>2-stroke. Jerry, Don't sell 2 stroke engines short. Probably the harshest enviornment that an engine can operate in is not on an airplane, but in a salt water enviornment as an outboard boat motor. Modern outboards are darn near "bulletproof" falling short of 4 strokes only in specific fuel consumption. Regards, Skip 1984 UltraStar with a (dare I say it?) a Cuyuna engine :) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Painting your airplane with a roller.
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Apr 27, 1998
Jason, Yes rolled mine on and I did use two coats of polytone with UV blocker in the paint. I then rolled on some trim w/o the UV blocker. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >To those of you who painted some or all of your airplane with a >roller did you use 2 coats of polytone? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
Mick, The distance between the prop and trailing edge of the wing 2.5 inches on my Firestar II and 5 inches on my original Firestar. The IVO uses a 2.5 inch spacer that increases the distance to 5 inches. It would be interesting if someone with a sound level meter, like Will Uribe, would sort out some of these sound differences. John Jung > >Mick Fine wrote: > writes: > > > >...I have to find a way to reduce the noise. I even tried the same Warp > >Drive prop that was quiet on the other plane and it was still to loud. > > This is interesting John, is there much difference in the distance > between the prop and trailing edge of the wing of the FSI compared to the > FSII? > > -Mick Fine > Tulsa, Oklahoma > http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair > Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) > http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillU <WillU(at)aol.com>
Date: Apr 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
John If I ever get a chance to measure different props on my travels I'll let you know. I'll be in Tuscaloosa and Gadsden, Alabama next month. Will http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html << The distance between the prop and trailing edge of the wing 2.5 inches on my Firestar II and 5 inches on my original Firestar. The IVO uses a 2.5 inch spacer that increases the distance to 5 inches. It would be interesting if someone with a sound level meter, like Will Uribe, would sort out some of these sound differences. John Jung > >Mick Fine wrote: > writes: > > > >...I have to find a way to reduce the noise. I even tried the same Warp > >Drive prop that was quiet on the other plane and it was still to loud. > > This is interesting John, is there much difference in the distance > between the prop and trailing edge of the wing of the FSI compared to the > FSII? >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 1998
Subject: Cal : paint
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
--------- Begin forwarded message ---------- From: Cal <cgreen(at)centuryinter.net> Subject: Kolb-List: paint Date: Sun, 26 Apr 98 21:38:40 -0500 Hi all, I did some painting on my FS this weekend and ran into a problem, I painted the tail and the fiberglass parts. The fiberglass parts turned out great with a nice gloss finish, but the fabric parts has a dull finish, it almost looks like it soaked into the fabric. I have three coats of poly brush (1-brushed 2-sprayed) and four coats of poly spray, I'm using aero-thane white (combination of glacier and insignia) has anyone run into this, or know what I'm doing wrong? Cal Call I found out the more coats I put on mine, the glossier ( to a point) it became. But this gets more expensive and heavier, So it boils down to a judgement call. Bob Doebler --------- End forwarded message ---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
> > The distance between the prop and trailing edge of the wing 2.5 > inches on my Firestar II and 5 inches on my original Firestar. The >IVO > uses a 2.5 inch spacer that increases the distance to 5 inches. It >would > be interesting if someone with a sound level meter, like Will Uribe, > would sort out some of these sound differences. > John Jung > Ok, leaping ahead a little, we can (maybe?) assume that the spacer reduces the noise level. Now we need an engineer type to tell us why the gyroscopic effects of displacing the prop plane 2.5" axially will trash a Rotax gearbox. Where has Ben been (sorry) anyway? -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 1998
From: Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca>
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
>Mick, > The distance between the prop and trailing edge of the wing 2.5 > inches on my Firestar II and 5 inches on my original Firestar. The IVO > uses a 2.5 inch spacer that increases the distance to 5 inches. It >would > be interesting if someone with a sound level meter, like Will Uribe, > would sort out some of these sound differences. > John Jung > > > I have installed a Ivo spacer between my three blade Warp drive and my C drive and have notices a considerable reduction in sound. My original clearance was only 1.5 inches! I purchased a 2.5 inch prop extension from Ivoprop. An Ivoprop is thinner than a Warp drive therefore the bolts that they supplied were too short. I needed 8 X 150 mm bolts. The longest metric bolts that I could find were 130 mm long. I went to a local skidoo / seadoo dealer and he found the required bolts in his part's book. The part no. is: BOMBARDIER 732 601 054 VIS-SCREW-HEX U.S.A. Kim Steiner Saskatchewan Canada Reach me by ICQ. My ICQ# is 4551867 or, * Page me online through my Personal Communication Center: http://wwp.mirabilis.com/4551867 (go there and try it!) or, * Send me E-mail Express directly to my computer screen 4551867(at)pager.mirabilis.com For downloading ICQ at http://www.icq.com/ For adding similar signatures to your e-mail go to: http://www.icq.com/emailsig.html Brian "Kim" Steiner ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: Apr 27, 1998
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
> I needed 8 X 150 mm bolts. > The longest metric bolts that I could find were 130 mm long. I went to a local > skidoo / seadoo dealer and he found the required bolts Or, you could have ordered them from Metric Screw and Tool Co., Wakefield, MA 1-800-METRIC-1. Available in either property class 8.8 (116,000 psi tensile) or 10.9 ( 150,000 psi...which is closer to AN grade 6). Lots of other stuff, too. Jim Baker Pres, USUA Club 104 Frontier Ultralight Aviators Oklahoma City ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ronald M" <n8xxo@rural-net.com>
Subject: Antanna location
Date: Apr 29, 1998
Sear Sir: Kolb mark III I am wondering where is a good location for the aircraft radio antanna? Where is a good location for a CB antanna? >From Ron n8xxo@rural-net.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com>
Subject: Much improved Sun-n-Fun pictures page
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Thanks entirely to the volunteer efforts of Franklin E. Hodson III ( fchodson@bigfoot.com | http://www.bigfoot.com/~fchodson), I now have some HTML and an index on http://scott.bentley.com, including all the pictures I took at Sun-n-Fun It now works much better for dial-in users, is organized, etc. - looks like a real web page. You can get an overview without downloading each picture. If I wasn't so lazy I'd do this kind of thing all the time... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marino, Frank J (Youngstown ARB)" <Frank.Marino(at)yng.afres.af.mil>
Subject: RE: Re[6]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers
Date: Apr 28, 1998
MAN!!! you guys are depressing me about 2 stroke engines, I'm thinking I might not ever want to fly my MKIII again. I don't like 2 strokes either but I was just starting to feel some what comfortable with it and now I don't know. FRANK J. MARINO Chief Loadmaster 773 AS > ---------- > From: mefine1(at)juno.com[SMTP:mefine1(at)juno.com] > Sent: Monday, April 27, 1998 4:38 PM > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Re: Re[6]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers > > On Mon, 27 Apr 98 12:51:25 cst jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com writes: > > > >I agree with you if he's actually pulling those hours he's pushing > it. > > The fact > >is he really getting those hours. > > Again, I'm not saying it's impossible but I would consider Mark's > experience to be very much the exception and not the rule. Most > operators > I know would have done 10 decarbons and 2 major overhauls (top and > bottom > end) in 1000 hours. > > >...My self I still don't like the 2-strokes. Just too much tweaking > and > > >to many > >things influence a engine out. I also have a problem with the > >frequent need to > >take things a part. When you disturb things like bearings, your > never > >know how > >long you got. > > Actually, decarboning doesn't disturb the bearings (unless you count > the > wrist-pin bearings). Yes, it does kill an afternoon or two (if you > work > as slow as me) but it's really not as big a job as some folks make it > out > to be. > > >Say what you may I'll trust a 4-stroke VW engine much more than a > >mucked with > >2-stroke. > > Jerry, I'm not trying to rain on everything (really!) but I wouldn't > count on getting 1000 hours out of a VW either! 4-strokes have been > known > to quit also, often for the same reasons that 2-strokes do. Proper > maintenance is still an absolute necessity. I agree, given a choice, > we'd > all rather be flying 4-strokes. Trouble is, the added weight and > expense > just can't always be justified. > > -Mick Fine > Tulsa, Oklahoma > http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair > Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) > http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo > > _____________________________________________________________________ > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com > Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > > - > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 1998
From: Ron Reece <rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com>
Subject: Re: Much improved Sun-n-Fun pictures page
>Thanks entirely to the volunteer efforts of Franklin E. Hodson III ( >fchodson@bigfoot.com | http://www.bigfoot.com/~fchodson), Group Depending on which software package you are using to for e-mail, mine is Eudora Pro, the internet address for Scotts photo's won't work. A comma "," was added to his address in the sentence for punctuation. My software package takes e-mail addresses and highlights them so that I can just click on it and it'll take me there...well it bombs with that comma. Just remove the comma at the end of his address and everything works out sweet. Ron >I now have some HTML and an index on http://scott.bentley.com, including all >the pictures I took at Sun-n-Fun > >It now works much better for dial-in users, is organized, etc. - looks like >a real web page. You can get an overview without downloading each picture. > >If I wasn't so lazy I'd do this kind of thing all the time... >- > > Ron Reece Return: rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com Raytheon Corp. Ft. Wayne IN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rinehart, Mark W." <Mark.W.Rinehart(at)Allison.com>
Subject: Scott's Pictures
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Thanks for the pics of Sun-N-Fun. By the way, is the "Sky Arrow" the aircraft that crashed? Mark Rinehart "MK III BFI wanna be" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Steve Bennett <sab(at)ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: RE: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
Date: Apr 28, 1998
I don't have a sound meter, but I can tell you that subjectively it makes a HUGE difference. I ran the IVO on my Mk II for about 2 years before I installed the spacer. Like on your Firestars, the prop-to-trailing-edge distance went from 2.5 to 5 inches. I'd have to say the cabin noise was cut about in half. -Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 1998
From: Ron Reece <rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com>
Subject: prop spacer
Group Just to get this right. Someone like myself, with ambitions of using a 503, can also use this spacer and reduce noise? How much does this little puppy cost? And it won't have adverse effects of the engine, RIGHT???? Ron Reece Return: rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com Raytheon Corp. Ft. Wayne IN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: Painting your airplane with a roller.
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Ralph, I should have asked this in my first message: how many gallons of paint did you use for your base color? > -----Original Message----- > From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com [SMTP:ul15rhb(at)juno.com] > Sent: Monday, April 27, 1998 5:50 PM > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Re: Painting your airplane with a roller. > > Jason, > > Yes rolled mine on and I did use two coats of polytone with UV blocker > in > the paint. I then rolled on some trim w/o the UV blocker. > > Ralph Burlingame > Original FireStar > > > writes: > >To those of you who painted some or all of your airplane with a > >roller did you use 2 coats of polytone? > > _____________________________________________________________________ > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com > Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillU <WillU(at)aol.com>
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
When changing to a longer prop spacer does the CG move back? Would I need to recalculate the weight and balance? Will Uribe http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Anderson, Jim L NWP" <Jim.L.Anderson(at)nwp01.usace.army.mil>
Subject: RE: Re[6]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers
Date: Apr 28, 1998
You guys crack me up. Since I've been flying UL's (OK fat UL's), I've seen more crap in the air that people are trying to kill themselves with. Most failures from 2-strokes are fuel starvation or conditions caused by people "tweaking" the carb polishing ports and otherwise modifying a stock engine. If you do that you are stupid and will likely have an engine out. I wouldn't put a 4 stroke on my UL (OK fat UL) because performance would suffer (KOLB has an HKS for sale). 2-strokes love to be ran hard, under load just like a diesel engine. I have 2-stroke diesels in my 40ft. yacht with 4500 hours (DET 6V53) they are good for 10,000 hrs, I desert and motocross raced my Husky 250WR, and NEVER seized an engine, in fact, I NEVER seized an engine racing my other 2-stroke racers over a 15 year period. You are a lot better off with a rotax on your UL than a modified auto engine any day. Humans love to screw with things and that tends to get us killed. When it comes to planes- Don't think you are a better engineer than the factory guys; don't think you can super tune your engines-stick to stock jetting; use good fuel and oil. Few failures are catastrophically related to the engine (exclude carbs, fuel pumps, etc.). don't buy junk and try to fly it. If you've got to modify something keep it inside the cockpit. Finally shut up and go flying (and stay off this stupid computer-you're starting to get secretary ass)......Jim "trying to unsubscribe to the Kolb gang but getting messages that say I'm not subscribed-help me get out" Anderson. -----Original Message----- From: Marino, Frank J (Youngstown ARB) [SMTP:Frank.Marino(at)yng.afres.af.mil] Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 5:04 AM To: kolb(at)intrig.com; 'mefine1(at)juno.com' Subject: RE: Re[6]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers MAN!!! you guys are depressing me about 2 stroke engines, I'm thinking I might not ever want to fly my MKIII again. I don't like 2 strokes either but I was just starting to feel some what comfortable with it and now I don't know. FRANK J. MARINO Chief Loadmaster 773 AS > ---------- > From: mefine1(at)juno.com[SMTP:mefine1(at)juno.com] > Sent: Monday, April 27, 1998 4:38 PM > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Re: Re[6]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers > > On Mon, 27 Apr 98 12:51:25 cst jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com writes: > > > >I agree with you if he's actually pulling those hours he's pushing > it. > > The fact > >is he really getting those hours. > > Again, I'm not saying it's impossible but I would consider Mark's > experience to be very much the exception and not the rule. Most > operators > I know would have done 10 decarbons and 2 major overhauls (top and > bottom > end) in 1000 hours. > > >...My self I still don't like the 2-strokes. Just too much tweaking > and > > >to many > >things influence a engine out. I also have a problem with the > >frequent need to > >take things a part. When you disturb things like bearings, your > never > >know how > >long you got. > > Actually, decarboning doesn't disturb the bearings (unless you count > the > wrist-pin bearings). Yes, it does kill an afternoon or two (if you > work > as slow as me) but it's really not as big a job as some folks make it > out > to be. > > >Say what you may I'll trust a 4-stroke VW engine much more than a > >mucked with > >2-stroke. > > Jerry, I'm not trying to rain on everything (really!) but I wouldn't > count on getting 1000 hours out of a VW either! 4-strokes have been > known > to quit also, often for the same reasons that 2-strokes do. Proper > maintenance is still an absolute necessity. I agree, given a choice, > we'd > all rather be flying 4-strokes. Trouble is, the added weight and > expense > just can't always be justified. > > -Mick Fine > Tulsa, Oklahoma > http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair > Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) > http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: prop spacer, question of Warp and Ivo prop users...
For those of you who use Warp Props: My Powerfin prop mounts by putting the six bolts thru the prop hub and threading them into the threaded holes in the Rotax hub of the "C" drive. There are then lock nuts on the engine side of the rotax hub. Is this how Warp and Ivo props are mounted? This is something I kindof wonder about, since they tell you to use a bolt bearing the load on the shank, not the threads. In this case, I am using the strength of the bolt quite poorly. The reason I ask is if I should decide to try a prop spacer to reduce noise, I expect the stress on these bolts WILL increase. And the redrive will see more stress also, as I will be giving the propeller forces a longer leverage arm to use against the redrive. If this is working OK for Warp props, it will work just fine for Powerfin, at 2/3 the mass. I will be calling the prop manufacturer for some input too. Thanks again guys... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Subject: Re: prop spacer, question of Warp and Ivo prop users...
> For those of you who use Warp Props: My Powerfin prop mounts by putting the > six bolts thru the prop hub and threading them into the threaded holes in the > Rotax hub of the "C" drive. There are then lock nuts on the engine side of > the rotax hub. Is this how Warp and Ivo props are mounted? Warp is mounted the same way....except on the Hirth, the gearbox hub is rounded on the back so nuts are not used. I've drilled the bolt heads for safety wire. > This is something I kindof wonder about, since they tell you to use a bolt > bearing the load on the shank, not the threads. In this case, I am using > the strength of the bolt quite poorly. How so? Is the bolt threaded all the way to the head (bad) or is it a partial thread/shank type (good)? Primary factor is to not bottom out the bolt threads in the hub plate....the bolt MUST be under tension. The primary load carrying forces on the prop/ prop hub is the frictional loading between the two....not the bolts...they are there only to provide the necessary friction loading. > The reason I ask is if I should decide to try a prop spacer to reduce noise, > I expect the stress on these bolts WILL increase. See above. > And the redrive will see > more stress also, as I will be giving the propeller forces a longer leverage > arm to use against the redrive. Assuming the prop is out of balance, does not track correctly, or vibrates excessively (assymetric loading...the reason I avoided IVO props)...the above is true. If the prop dynamically and statically balances, tracks true, and is torsionally stiff enough to resist bending, the only other force acting will be gyroscopic forces which may have an effect on bearing life. Jim Baker Pres, USUA Club 104 Frontier Ultralight Aviators Oklahoma City ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
No W&B problem with moving the prop back 2.5 inches, unless your are already pushing the limit. (like 36.99%) John Jung > >WillU wrote: > > When changing to a longer prop spacer does the CG move back? Would I need to > recalculate the weight and balance? > > Will Uribe > http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: george_eagle(at)webtv.net (George Thompson)
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Subject: Seafoam
Where can we buy this Seafoam? It seems a painless way to decarbon a two stroke. I am sure there are other flyers that would be interested in trying it. The Bald Eagle. Blue Skys and Tail Winds ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: paint
> Hi all, > I did some painting on my FS this weekend and ran into a >problem, I painted the tail and the fiberglass parts. The >fiberglass parts turned out great with a nice gloss finish, but >the fabric parts has a dull finish, it almost looks like it Cal: Sounds like you may have an overspray problem. Aerothane and other two part polyurethanes are very supseptible to blush or overspray. If that is the case, the best remedy I found was another coat of polyurethane and protect anything that's already painted from the overspray to prevent blush. That charactgeristic caused much labor intensive masking to protect what had already been painted. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rrice(at)wcoil.com
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
>When changing to a longer prop spacer does the CG move back? Would I need to >recalculate the weight and balance? > Ok guys The rotary forces are increased by the squared distance of extension,so you can see that the gyro effect is multiplied many times by the extension. (not a engineer) dave r >Will Uribe >http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html >- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Subject: Re[2]: After-muffler
I just read something a few weeks ago about noise reduction. I can't recall where it was but it indicated you would get much more noise reduction using a intake silencer than the optional muffler (exhaust silencer). Jerry ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: After-muffler Date: 4/27/98 10:50 AM John, I installed an aftermuffler when I originally build the MKIII with the 582 and used it for about 30 hrs before removing it permanently. Did not notice much difference from inside or from ground. If you are still interested in one after reading this, I will make you a good deal on it. Frank Reynen http://www.webcom.com/reynen Group, Has anyone tried an after-muffler on their Rotax? Is it worth while for noise reduction? John Jung SE Wisconsin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Subject: Re: cutting Lexan..
Maybe we should trade planes. I have short legs and because of that I can't straddle the side to get in and out of the FireFly. With the short windshield I had to call for the ground crew to bring the ramp truck (a cement block). They got tired of carrying the block around so my partner decided to put on the full enclosure. I can now get in and out. We now looking at making a windscreen something in between the two. Now if I could figure out how to land the thing. Reminder: order nose cone from Kolb. As for cutting Lexan, I found it cuts real easy with a good pair of tin snips. I have a nice pair of (new aluminum handle) old style tin snips. I also used the aviation type snips although because of the jaws serrated edge they leave a little rougher edge. After cutting I touch up the edge with a file and a Scott Brite pad. Works for me. Don't try cutting Plexiglas with them, I think it would shatter. Jerry Bidle ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: cutting Lexan.. Date: 4/27/98 9:32 AM There was a discussion on the cutting of Lexan awhile ago, but I didnt see the outcome. I want to shorten my windshield/conopy on my Firestar. Unless there is another way to get into and out of the plane with my long legs without cutting and shortening the lexan, I am going to shorten it by cutting. Perhaps a piano hinge and pop rivits might solve the problem. Any comments from the throng?? Larry in Sussex w/ Firestar @ 3N5
   There was a discussion on the cutting of Lexan awhile ago, but I didnt see the outcome. I want to shorten my windshield/conopy on my Firestar. Unless there is another way to get into and out of the plane with my long legs without cutting and shortening the lexan, I am going to shorten it by cutting. Perhaps a piano hinge and pop rivits might solve the problem. Any comments from the throng?? Larry in Sussex w/ Firestar @ 3N5
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: After-muffler
Larry Cottrell reported reduced sound with the intake silencer. My questions for Larry or anyone else are: 1) Is there any interference with folding a Firestar II with the single or dual (carb) intake silencer? 2) Is extra hardware needed to mount it when used on a single carb? CPS warns about them going through the prop. John Jung > >jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote: > > I just read something a few weeks ago about noise reduction. I can't > recall where it was but it indicated you would get much more noise > reduction using a intake silencer than the optional muffler (exhaust > silencer). > > Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Subject: Re: Firestsr II wing rib
TWORMSLEY(at)postoffice.worldnet.att.net writes: << I am currently building the jig for the wing rib and have come across a problem. The plans show the widest point for the rib at 7 1/16", but I measure 7 1/4". Since the plans are supposed to be to scale and all the other measurements seem to be correct I was wondering if this is a miss >> Be careful of high humidity in your area....my plans grew too .....so I baked them in the oven and re tacked them.....................GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Subject: Re: cutting Lexan..
> As for cutting Lexan, I found it cuts real easy with a good pair of > tin snips. I have a nice pair of (new aluminum handle) old style tin > snips. I also used the aviation type snips although because of the > jaws serrated edge they leave a little rougher edge. After cutting I > touch up the edge with a file and a Scott Brite pad. Or get some of the edging channel from JC Whitney or other automotive, snowmobile, plastics distributor. Has metal grip clips on the inside so you just push it on the edge and it stays. Chrome, black, white...... Jim Baker Pres, USUA Club 104 Frontier Ultralight Aviators Oklahoma City ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Seafoam
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Apr 28, 1998
George, You can get it at many auto parts stores. There is a store chain here called Fleet Farm that has it. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar Thompson) writes: >Where can we buy this Seafoam? It seems a painless way to decarbon a >two stroke. I am sure there are other flyers that would be interested in >trying it. The Bald Eagle. > >Blue Skys and Tail Winds ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FW: Painting your airplane with a roller.
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Apr 28, 1998
Jason, I used about 3 gallons as I recall. I built in '86. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: > Ralph, I should have asked this in my first message: how many gallons >of paint did you use for your base color? > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com [SMTP:ul15rhb(at)juno.com] >> Sent: Monday, April 27, 1998 5:50 PM >> To: kolb(at)intrig.com >> Subject: Re: Painting your airplane with a roller. >> >> Jason, >> >> Yes rolled mine on and I did use two coats of polytone with UV >>blocker in the paint. I then rolled on some trim w/o the UV blocker. >> >> Ralph Burlingame >> Original FireStar >> >> >> writes: >> >To those of you who painted some or all of your airplane with a >> >roller did you use 2 coats of polytone? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Antanna location
>Sear Sir: >Kolb mark III I am wondering where is a good location for the aircraft >radio antanna? >Where is a good location for a CB antanna? >>From Ron > The radio antenna will work fine either up on the gap seal in front of the engine, or below the fuselage about 2' behind the main gear. You will have to curve the antenna back horizontal to keep it off the ground, but it will still work ok. Either way, make sure that there is a sheet of thin aluminum at least as big as a pie plate where the antenna is attached for a ground plane, or the antenna will not work very well. A good location for a CB antenna is on your pickup truck. Tell your cheap friends to buy aircraft radios so that you will not have to bother with lugging around a CB radio just on their account. :) And on the subject of radios: radio communication techniques are a source of both great frustration and great amusement to controllers. Saturday I had the following exchange on the frequency: "1964Zulu, Tri-City Approach." "64Zulu, say aircraft type." (Shucks...I wanted so bad to see a twin engine Mooney...maybe tomorrow?) Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: RE: Re[6]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers
>MAN!!! you guys are depressing me about 2 stroke engines, I'm thinking >I might not ever want to fly my MKIII again. I don't like 2 strokes >either but I was just starting to feel some what comfortable with it and >now I don't know. Out in the carport is a 1953 Feathercraft aluminum runabout with a 1953 Elgin 40 HP 2-cylinder, 2 cycle engine on it. I bought it from the 2nd owner who bought it from the original owner in 1957. The 2nd owner never had the head off, and I have never had the head off, runs like a watch. A reliable 2-cycle. Aircraft engines (Continental, Lycoming, etc.)are remarkably reliable. Other engines are less so. BUT THAT'S NOT IMPORTANT!!! If you fly an airplane that stalls at 70, and crosses the fence at 90, you HAVE to have a reliable engine. If you fly an airplane that stalls at 30 and crosses the fence at 50, plan your overflight to avoid hostile terrain, and you can land anywhere, with only inconvenience. One of the guys in our chapter owns what is apparently the prototype 503 Drifter with a 440 Kawasaki on it. (It is a disaster, Duct tape, hose clamps, angle iron braces...) He flew it all one year with stuck rings , and out of sheer contrariness, wouldn't overhaul it. He had several forced landings a month, and only fixed it when everyone refused to fly with him anymore.(got tired of fetching the trailer) He never bent the airplane, he only annoyed people. But he proved a point. Even the most unreliable ultralight engine/aircraft is safe and doesn't get bent if you fly with the assumption that it can get quiet most any time. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Intake silencers
Had an intake silencer on my 277, and also on the 503. On the 277, a minor loss of power top end, better fuel economy, MUCH quieter. On the 503, power loss unacceptable,(heavy airplane) had to remove it. Don't know how much horsepower involved, but was running a 66" Warp Drive, turning 6400 static. Took the silencer off, installed the stock K&N filter, rejetted, and turned 7000 static, same pitch. Repitched to 6400. Bought the dual carb kit, and turned 7200, same pitch. Repitched to 6400. Airflow=Horsepower. If you feel like you have more power than you need or want, an intake silencer will reduce noise and fuel consumption. But they can be tricky to get the jetting right. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 1998
From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: silencers
Hi, I ansered Johns query about the silencers but forgot to include the list so I will do it again. I have a single carb silencer, and do not have any trouble in folding the wings. It has a pivot point in the fitting so it moves easiely enough that if the wing does contact it, it rotates without causing a problem. I did safety wire it to the engine, there are tabs to do so on it. The wire is long enough so that it can still move. It takes that nasty irratating whine out of the engine that seems to make most people angry. Most comment on how it is much quieter than they expected. I forgot to mention the difference in jetting. CPS recommends a drop of 10 thousands in jet. I used a 155 so I installed a 145 and it was right on. I do believe that I lost a bit of horsepower but even though I'm starting from 4300 altitide and both the plane and I am fat it is still acceptable. (engine is 447) Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 1998
From: Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
Hay this sounds really dangerous to me. The reason Ivo can get away with the spacer is because their props are very light and flexible, resulting in very low gyro (inertial) forces. Warp drive props are heavy and stiff, resulting in very large inertial forces. At the least I would not do it withou the written permission from warp drive. If you loose a prop you will be really unhappy about it, especially if it decides to drop down and cut your tail boom off! Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Russell" <jr(at)ROMETOOL.COM>
Subject: PROP SPACER
Date: Apr 29, 1998
ON MY SLINGSHOT WITH A 582 AND A 3-BLADE WARP TAPERTIP PROP I HAD 2.0" OF PROP CLEARANCE HORIZONTALY TO THE REAR OF THE FAIRING ON THE BACK OF THE CAGE. I WAS UNCOMFORTABLE WITH THE 2.0" , UNLIKE THE SPACER THAT COMES FROM IVO WHERE THE SPACER AND PROP RELY ON THE PROP BOLTS FOR ALIGNMENT, I MADE A 1.75 LONG SPACER TO ACCEPT THE 1.00" BOSS ON THE GEAR BOX FLANGE AND MACHINED A 1.00 BOSS TO FIT THE PROP HUB. ALSO A SLIP FIT ON THE 6-8MM PROP BOLTS TO HELP TORSIONAL LOADS. I NOW HAVE ABOUT 35 HOURS USING THE SPACER. I DID HAVE MY PROP OFF AROUND 30 HOURS AND CHECKED PROP BOLTS FOR STRAIGHTNESS AND THEY WERE OK. JUST THOUGHT I WOULD SHARE WHAT I HAVE DONE. JOHN RUSSELL
ON MY SLINGSHOT WITH A 582 AND A 3-BLADE WARP TAPERTIP PROP

I HAD 2.0" OF PROP CLEARANCE HORIZONTALY TO THE REAR OF

THE FAIRING ON THE BACK OF THE CAGE. I WAS UNCOMFORTABLE

WITH THE 2.0" , UNLIKE THE SPACER THAT COMES FROM IVO WHERE

THE SPACER AND PROP RELY ON THE PROP BOLTS FOR ALIGNMENT,

I MADE A 1.75 LONG SPACER TO ACCEPT THE 1.00" BOSS ON THE

GEAR BOX FLANGE AND MACHINED A 1.00 BOSS TO FIT THE PROP

HUB. ALSO A SLIP FIT ON THE 6-8MM PROP BOLTS TO HELP TORSIONAL

LOADS. I NOW HAVE ABOUT 35 HOURS USING THE SPACER. I DID HAVE

MY PROP OFF AROUND 30 HOURS AND CHECKED PROP BOLTS FOR

STRAIGHTNESS AND THEY WERE OK. JUST THOUGHT I WOULD SHARE

WHAT I HAVE DONE.

          &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;        JOHN RUSSELL
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Seafoam
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Apr 29, 1998
George, To use the Seafoam here's what you do: 1) Take out one spark plug and bring that piston to TDC. 2) Add 2-4 capfuls in that cylinder. 3) Let it sit for a few days. 4) Put a used plug in the treated cylinder. 5) Start it up and run at about 4000 rpm once it's warmed up. 6) When it quits blowing white smoke out the exhaust, it's ready. 7) Put a new plug in the treated cylinder. 9) Repeat steps 1-7 for the other cylinder. Please Note: The Seafoam will foul the plugs. Use some old plugs during the treatment then put in new ones after the treatment. I have tested it for the above method. The instructions say that you can add to your gas tank, but I would NOT do it because you do not know what it will eat up. Keep it in the cylinders only. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar Thompson) writes: >Went looking for seafoam this morning and the third parts house had >some. The 'Car Quest" chain had it. I will give it a try sometime >next week. Thanks for the info. George. > >Blue Skys and Tail Winds > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: Apr 29, 1998
Subject: Re: PROP SPACER
> ON MY SLINGSHOT WITH A 582 AND A 3-BLADE WARP TAPERTIP PROP > I HAD 2.0" OF PROP CLEARANCE HORIZONTALY TO THE REAR OF > THE FAIRING ON THE BACK OF THE CAGE. I WAS UNCOMFORTABLE Does anyone remember what IVO's minimum clearance is? I had the same interference point as John, but since I have an IVO, I had to use the extension AND tilt the engine forward substantially to make the prop clear the fairing by something close to what IVO requires. Tilting the engine was what Kolb did as well. I'm just trying to remember what I used for spacing, to see how closely it compares to John's. Did you have to tilt your engine John? How about passing along some numbers (cruise, climb, etc.) when you get a chance. Inquiring (bored, away from home) minds want to know. Rusty (still stuck in Cleveland) Duffy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 1998
Subject: Re: Re[6]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: > Out in the carport is a 1953 Feathercraft aluminum runabout >with a >1953 Elgin 40 HP 2-cylinder, 2 cycle engine on it.... I could mention my 1960 Starcraft with a '59 Johnson 'Super Seahorse' 35 on it and that I've had it 12 trouble free years but there are some who start whining when the topic gets away from strictly Kolb stuff, so I won't. -Mick (so CB users are 'cheap' huh? -I resemble that remark!) Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Seafoam
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Apr 29, 1998
Skip, What I would suggest is to use "Seafoam Deep Throat" in the spray can. Put in some old plugs and tie the plane down. Pull off the air cleaner and start it up. Run at a high idle and spray the Seafoam into the carb with the straw provided. (Please stay away from the prop). Spray until the engine bogs down and finally quits. Let the treatment work for a few days if possible. Start the engine and run until it quits blowing out smoke. Install new plugs and the air cleaner then go for it. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: > >Ralph, > >>The instructions say that you can add to your gas >>tank, but I would NOT do it because you do not know what it will eat >>up. Keep it in the cylinders only. > >For those of us that have engines that have spark plugs pointing down >(as opposed to your engine installation) pouring Seafoam upwards presents >a problem. What do you suggest? > >Skip ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Russell" <jr(at)ROMETOOL.COM>
Subject: Re: PROP SPACER
Date: Apr 30, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: Russell Duffy <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com> Date: Wednesday, April 29, 1998 6:56 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: PROP SPACER >> ON MY SLINGSHOT WITH A 582 AND A 3-BLADE WARP TAPERTIP PROP >> I HAD 2.0" OF PROP CLEARANCE HORIZONTALY TO THE REAR OF >> THE FAIRING ON THE BACK OF THE CAGE. I WAS UNCOMFORTABLE > >Does anyone remember what IVO's minimum clearance is? I had the same >interference point as John, but since I have an IVO, I had to use the >extension AND tilt the engine forward substantially to make the prop >clear the fairing by something close to what IVO requires. Tilting >the engine was what Kolb did as well. I'm just trying to remember >what I used for spacing, to see how closely it compares to John's. > >Did you have to tilt your engine John? How about passing along some >numbers (cruise, climb, etc.) when you get a chance. Inquiring >(bored, away from home) minds want to know. > >Rusty (still stuck in Cleveland) Duffy >- RUSTY, YES, USING 5/8" SPACER UNDER ENGINE PLATE AT REAR I ENDED UP WITH 2.0" CLEARANCE. CRUISE @ 5700 85MPH CRUISE @ 6000 90MPH FULL THROTTLE 105-108MPH I'M SEEING AROUND 1300-1500 CLIMB SOLO @ 60-65MPH. I'M PLANNING ON THE JONES LITE FLYIN MAY 9&10 , HOW BOUT YOU. LAST YEAR I THINK 8 FROM OUR GROUP MADE IT DOWN AND CAMPED . THERE WAS AROUND 50 CRAFT SHOW UP. GOOD FOOD. JOHN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Jones Lite Fly-In
Date: Apr 30, 1998
I'M PLANNING ON THE JONES LITE FLYIN MAY 9&10 , HOW BOUT YOU. LAST YEAR I THINK 8 FROM OUR GROUP MADE IT DOWN AND CAMPED . THERE WAS AROUND 50 CRAFT SHOW UP. GOOD FOOD. JOHN I was around when the final count was made at the Jones Lite Fly-In last year...63 planes at the biggest point. Looks like there will be a good Kolb representation this year. John Hauck is intending to come, now John Russell with his Slingshot is coming and there is a local guy with a Firefly. If the Southern Flyers club comes up from Ashford, Al. and all points south then Kolb might outnumber the local Challengers! Thought I would post the info again for anyone who might have lost it...sorry for using the bandwidth to those not interested. Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindsping.com This is a post for anyone in the central Alabama, central Georgia area. There is a fly-in planned on May 30 at Jones Field. The organizer is the regional Challenger dealer named George Travis Phone# 334-742-9922 (for info.). The field is located in Smith Station, Al. (approx. 20 miles wnw of Columbus, Ga. (CSG)) The GPS coordinates for the gadget guys out there are: Lat N32-30 Long W85-05 Other pertinent info is... Elevation 440' msl Runway 05-23 - 2000' grass power lines both ends Fly pattern to north of field ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: PROP SPACER
>> ON MY SLINGSHOT WITH A 582 AND A 3-BLADE WARP TAPERTIP PROP >> I HAD 2.0" OF PROP CLEARANCE HORIZONTALY TO THE REAR OF >> THE FAIRING ON THE BACK OF THE CAGE. I WAS UNCOMFORTABLE > >Does anyone remember what IVO's minimum clearance is? I had the same >interference point as John, but since I have an IVO, I had to use the I picked this out of my August 97 archive of Kolb listserver info: >From Jon Steiger: JS> A FireFly builder told me that, with the IVO prop, I should have a JS> spacer in front of the prop, because the prop blades are designed to JS> flex 5 inches, and the tips could hit the back of my wings. True, or JS> not a problem? >From Russell Duffy: RD> True. Dennis told me that the 5" flex that IVO mentions comes during RD> startup and shutdown, not really during normal running. During the RD> break-in of my 503 (not on a FireFly), I couldn't really see much flexing RD> during the run, but I made sure I had 5" clearance just in case. Get the RD> spacer if there's any doubt. -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: PROP SPACER
Howdy Guys: If there is any doubt in anyone's mind about Ivo props flexing during start up, just go back there and take a look while someone else starts the eng. At the Dealers Showcase at Lakeland, Dick Rayhill couldn't get the Firestar started, and time was growing short for us to fly, like next. I just happened to be sitting to the side of the aircraft to get a good view of the start sequence. The blades on the aircraft look like sphagetti when they are turned. I would definitely go with an extension. Sun and Fun 94, I flew the Mk III with new 912 and Warp Drive tapered blade prop to Lakeland. Sometime during the trip, I got a blade strike from one or more blades during startup. Hit and dented the rear of the left flap leading edge tube, putting a nice dent in it. I wasn't sure when the strike occurred, so I very carfefully flew back to Alabama, and a friend turned me a nice extention for my prop. Again, my own experiences. john h ________________________________________________________________________________ via SMTP by pop-proxy03.primenet.com, id smtpd024527; Thu Apr 30 12:30:37 1998
Date: Apr 30, 1998
From: swultra <swultra(at)primenet.com>
Subject: Kolb: RAIDOS
CB,s are cool because you don't half to give big brother $95 to operate them ..... steve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb: RAIDOS
>CB,s are cool because you don't half to give big brother $95 to operate >them ..... steve Howdy Steve: I think you are a little behind the times. FCC requirement for aircraft station license is no longer in effect, unless you decide to fly to a foreign country. I think I would gamble on not having a current license going into Canada, I don't recall ever being asked to produce one when I went thru their customs. VHF radio has gotten me out of a jamb more than once. In 1989, on a flight up the Shenendoa (sp) Valley early one morning, I got caught on top with no ground in sight, except the tops of the mountains on each side of the valley. I punched in Roanoke Regional Airport VOR (VOR is in the middle of the field) and headed that way. I was flying a UL Kolb Firestar. When I got over the field there was a nice hole right over the runway. I called the tower, indicated I was caught on top in a VFR ultralight and requested permission to land. Permission granted as I spiraled down thru the hole and on to a gigantic runway. Just prior to touchdown the engine quit. Tower told me to turn off at next taxiway and contact ground. I told them to wait a minute, I had to get out and restart the engine. Permission granted again. I spent half a day waiting for the weather to lift, but I was safe. Could not have done that with a CB. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1998
From: Ron Reece <rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com>
Subject: generator for 503
Group Does the 503 have a built in generator for electric type stuff (strobe, radio, ...)? Ron Reece Return: rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com Raytheon Corp. Ft. Wayne IN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1998
From: "Richard neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us>
Subject: Dual Stick MKIII
Kolb has announced a option for dual control sticks for the MKIII. Has anyone seen them? Did anyone see it at Sun and Fun? Did anyone get any photos. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1998
Subject: Ron Reece : generator for 503
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
--------- Begin forwarded message ---------- From: Ron Reece <rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com> Subject: Kolb-List: generator for 503 Date: Thu, 30 Apr 1998 15:14:14 -0500 Group Does the 503 have a built in generator for electric type stuff (strobe, radio, ...)? Yes, but you will need to buy a dc regulator, usually around $50-60. Bob doebler Ron Reece Return: rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com Raytheon Corp. Ft. Wayne IN --------- End forwarded message ---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: Apr 30, 1998
Subject: Re: PROP SPACER
> YES, USING 5/8" SPACER UNDER ENGINE PLATE AT REAR > I ENDED UP WITH 2.0" CLEARANCE. Thanks, that's probably about right for me as well. Originally, I had no clearance, then I added the 5/8" spacer under the engine, and the 2.5" prop spacer to get close to 5" clearance for the prop tip. > CRUISE @ 5700 85MPH > CRUISE @ 6000 90MPH > FULL THROTTLE 105-108MPH > I'M SEEING AROUND 1300-1500 CLIMB SOLO @ 60-65MPH. I hate you :-) > I'M PLANNING ON THE JONES LITE FLYIN MAY 9&10 , HOW > BOUT YOU. LAST YEAR I THINK 8 FROM OUR GROUP MADE > IT DOWN AND CAMPED . THERE WAS AROUND 50 CRAFT Hey John, you planning to camp from the 9th to the 30th :-) I'm still hoping to make the 30th, but I can't really say for sure yet. I'm already trying to think of ways to slow your SS down to match mine. It'll be cheaper and easier than installing a new engine :-) Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Stick MKIII
Richard, See-> http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981.htm and specifically -> http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981.htm for pictures of John Hauck's installation. John Jung > >Richard neilsen wrote: > > Kolb has announced a option for dual control sticks for the MKIII. Has anyone seen them? Did anyone see it at Sun and Fun? Did anyone get any photos. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Russell" <jr(at)ROMETOOL.COM>
Subject: Re: PROP SPACER
Date: May 01, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: Russell Duffy <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com> Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 9:44 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: PROP SPACER >> YES, USING 5/8" SPACER UNDER ENGINE PLATE AT REAR >> I ENDED UP WITH 2.0" CLEARANCE. > >Thanks, that's probably about right for me as well. Originally, I >had no clearance, then I added the 5/8" spacer under the engine, and >the 2.5" prop spacer to get close to 5" clearance for the prop tip. > >> CRUISE @ 5700 85MPH >> CRUISE @ 6000 90MPH >> FULL THROTTLE 105-108MPH >> I'M SEEING AROUND 1300-1500 CLIMB SOLO @ 60-65MPH. > >I hate you :-) > >> I'M PLANNING ON THE JONES LITE FLYIN MAY 9&10 , HOW >> BOUT YOU. LAST YEAR I THINK 8 FROM OUR GROUP MADE >> IT DOWN AND CAMPED . THERE WAS AROUND 50 CRAFT > >Hey John, you planning to camp from the 9th to the 30th :-) I'm >still hoping to make the 30th, but I can't really say for sure yet. >I'm already trying to think of ways to slow your SS down to match >mine. It'll be cheaper and easier than installing a new engine :-) > >Rusty > >HEY RUSTY, I'M ALL SCREWED UP ON THE DATES, IF THE FLYIN IS ON THE 30TH , OUR NEWS LETTER IS NOT CORRECT. (PLANNING ON CAMPING 1-NIGHT-I HOPE) JOHN >- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: PROP SPACER
Date: May 01, 1998
, IF THE >FLYIN IS ON THE 30TH , OUR NEWS LETTER IS NOT CORRECT. >(PLANNING ON CAMPING 1-NIGHT-I HOPE) John... don't come yet! 2 1/2 weeks is a long time without a shower! (No showers on site!) fly-in planned on May 30 at Jones Field. The organizer is the regional Challenger dealer named George Travis Phone# 334-742-9922 (for info.). The field is located in Smith Station, Al. (approx. 20 miles wnw of Columbus, Ga. (CSG)) The GPS coordinates for the gadget guys out there are: Lat N32-30 Long W85-05 Other pertinent info is... Elevation 440' msl Runway 05-23 - 2000' grass power lines both ends Fly pattern to north of field Overnight camping available with electricity and toilet.(No showers.) This was typed right off of the printed flyer that they handed out ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruzan3 <Bruzan3(at)aol.com>
Date: May 01, 1998
Subject: Re: PROP SPACER
Testing 123 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruzan3 <Bruzan3(at)aol.com>
Date: May 01, 1998
Subject: Re: PROP SPACER
Testing 123 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 2 May 1998 11:05:42 UT (Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA23887;
Date: May 02, 1998
Subject: Re[2]: PROP SPACER
Can't comment on the blade flex but I can comment about the distance commented that they added the spacer to increase the distance between the trailing edge of the wing and the prop. According to him this improved performance as it put the prop in cleaner air. This is too important to trust to here say. Build it to plans and consult the factory if in doubt. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: PROP SPACER Date: 4/30/98 12:02 PM >> ON MY SLINGSHOT WITH A 582 AND A 3-BLADE WARP TAPERTIP PROP >> I HAD 2.0" OF PROP CLEARANCE HORIZONTALY TO THE REAR OF >> THE FAIRING ON THE BACK OF THE CAGE. I WAS UNCOMFORTABLE > >Does anyone remember what IVO's minimum clearance is? I had the same >interference point as John, but since I have an IVO, I had to use the I picked this out of my August 97 archive of Kolb listserver info: >From Jon Steiger: JS> A FireFly builder told me that, with the IVO prop, I should have a JS> spacer in front of the prop, because the prop blades are designed to JS> flex 5 inches, and the tips could hit the back of my wings. True, or JS> not a problem? >From Russell Duffy: RD> True. Dennis told me that the 5" flex that IVO mentions comes during RD> startup and shutdown, not really during normal running. During the RD> break-in of my 503 (not on a FireFly), I couldn't really see much flexing RD> during the run, but I made sure I had 5" clearance just in case. Get the RD> spacer if there's any doubt. -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 2 May 1998 11:05:42 UT (Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA23888;
Date: May 02, 1998
Subject: Re[2]: PROP SPACER
I'm confused. There appears to be two different but closely related topic being discussed here. Are we talking about the prop extension to set the prop back farther from the trailing edge of the wing or put a spacer under the rear of the engine to increase the distance (space) between the tip of the prop and the boom tube. I can't recall the exact distance but if I recall right but on our FireFly were got less than 1" (1/2" comes to mind) between the tip of the prop and the boom tube. Jerry ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: PROP SPACER Date: 4/30/98 8:45 PM > YES, USING 5/8" SPACER UNDER ENGINE PLATE AT REAR > I ENDED UP WITH 2.0" CLEARANCE. Thanks, that's probably about right for me as well. Originally, I had no clearance, then I added the 5/8" spacer under the engine, and the 2.5" prop spacer to get close to 5" clearance for the prop tip. > CRUISE @ 5700 85MPH > CRUISE @ 6000 90MPH > FULL THROTTLE 105-108MPH > I'M SEEING AROUND 1300-1500 CLIMB SOLO @ 60-65MPH. I hate you :-) > I'M PLANNING ON THE JONES LITE FLYIN MAY 9&10 , HOW > BOUT YOU. LAST YEAR I THINK 8 FROM OUR GROUP MADE > IT DOWN AND CAMPED . THERE WAS AROUND 50 CRAFT Hey John, you planning to camp from the 9th to the 30th :-) I'm still hoping to make the 30th, but I can't really say for sure yet. I'm already trying to think of ways to slow your SS down to match mine. It'll be cheaper and easier than installing a new engine :-) Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Date: May 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Re[6]: MK-II info. - Brand of Oil Mark Prefers
<< But he proved a point. Even the most unreliable ultralight engine/aircraft is safe and doesn't get bent if you fly with the assumption that it can get quiet most any time. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >> HEAR! HEAR.... Richard...I agree with you all the way.....I'm almost tempted to say...."quietness is next to godliness".....but no sense in overdoing it..... .GeoR38 the ol soaring pilot!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Date: May 02, 1998
Subject: Re: Kolb: RAIDOS
<< Could not have done that with a CB. john h >> John, you're good.....looking forward to meeting you at Oshkosh......GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1998
From: T Swartz <Tswartz(at)mail.ptd.net>
Subject: Fly-in breakfast
FYI EAA Chapter 540 will have their annual fly-in breakfast at Smoketown airport on May 24 starting at 8:00 AM. Rain date is May 25. Smoketown airport is in Southeastern PA about 8 mi South of Lancaster Airport and about 30 mi. West South West of the Kolb Factory. Smoketown is in the heart of the Amish county so come on over and enjoy! Terry MK III 77.8 hrs. just got my Repairmans certificate for my MK III. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: May 02, 1998
Subject: PROP SPACER/ extension
> I'm confused. There appears to be two different but closely related > topic being discussed here. > > Are we talking about the prop extension to set the prop back farther > from the trailing edge of the wing or put a spacer under the rear of > the engine to increase the distance (space) between the tip of the > prop and the boom tube. Guilty as charged. There are 2 methods used to get the required prop clearance on a SlingShot, but this may be the only model where this is done. First is the normal prop extension that spaces the prop farther from the gearbox. Everyone is pretty familiar with this. Second is a spacer that's placed under the rear engine mounts to tip the engine forward. On a SS, there's a (roughly) vertical aluminum fairing that closes up the rear of the cage. It's not quite parallel to the prop as you might expect it to be when viewed from the side. If you bolt an engine to the mounts on a SS without tipping the engine forward, you find that the smallest clearance between the prop and airframe occurs between the tip of the lower blade of the prop when it's positioned vertically, and this fairing. Tipping the engine forward moves the lower tip of the prop to the rear, away from the fairing. Hopefully, this will clarify what we were talking about. Rusty (one more week in Cleveland) Duffy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: May 02, 1998
Subject: engine conversion ?
Hi all, For some crazy reason, I'm actually considering upgrading the engine on my SS from the 503 to something larger. The minimum increase would be to a 582, but alternatives are also being considered. I guess my question is about the cost. What would be the cheapest way to go from my current 503 (new a year ago with 25 hours now) to a 582? Should I just sell the 503 complete, then buy a 582 complete? Are there enough interchangeable parts (gearbox, carbs, ignition, etc) to be worth trying to buy just the bare engine from someone like LEAF, perhaps with a trade in of mine? Sure wish I had my LEAF catalog with me here in Cleveland. Anybody heard from the 2SI Twinpack SlingShot recently? Any other recomendations for a suitable engine ? Thanks, Rusty (It's John's fault) Duffy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Original Firestar
Date: May 02, 1998
The discussion about extensions and spacers makes me wonder what the original Firestar builders did in this regard, if anything. Perhaps it is not necessary? Also, I'm in the covering stage now and had directed the following question to Ralph Burlingame. However, he was unable to help because he did not have the problem on his. So, John, and any other Original owners, how did you cover the cage just below the vertical aileron push rod? When the stick is pushed left this push rod protrudes below the bottom of the cage. If I cover the bottom, without some sort of provision, the bottom end of the push rod would go through the bottom covering material. How did you handle this? Thanks, Ron Carroll Original Firestar Independence, Oregon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: engine conversion ?
>Hi all, > >For some crazy reason, I'm actually considering upgrading the engine >on my SS from the 503 to something larger. The minimum increase >would be to a 582, but alternatives are also being considered. > >I guess my question is about the cost. What would be the cheapest >way to go from my current 503 (new a year ago with 25 hours now) to a >582? > >Any other recomendations for a suitable engine ? > >Thanks, >Rusty (It's John's fault) Duffy > > I have not tried one yet but have heard from 3 different sources that the R&D Aerosports tuned exhaust systems actually perform as advertised. If true, your 503 would make 62 HP @6500 rpm and 10 lbs more torque at cruise. Why don't we all encourage you to gamble, ah, invest your money in one and then let the rest of us know how it works? Their ad is on page 10 of the May Ultralight Flying , their phone # is 715-355-0536. For a 503, it is $350 for plain steel, and $495 for stainless. Also they claim 82 HP for the 532, and if my wing/windshield mod doesn't give me the performance I expect, (3 more weeks and it will be ready to test) I will be letting all of you know how well their pipe works on the water cooled Rotax. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Original Firestar
>The discussion about extensions and spacers makes me wonder what the >original Firestar builders did in this regard, if anything. Perhaps it is >not necessary? Keep in mind that the front-back clearance issue is mostly for IVO propped engines cuz of the IVO flexibility. I'd check w/ IVO or KOlb, but just for grins, a quick tape measure look at mine in the garage looks like there is about 4" front-back clearance. (Mine is a KXP and i believe is the same as an original FS in this area.) As for shimming rear engine mounts up or down on all Firestar models (i think), there are 2 purposes: 1. clear the fuselage boom by at least 1" and 2. yaw trimming. Yes, yaw trimming. (Details of this have been mentioned previously but ask if you missed that.) >Also, I'm in the covering stage now and had directed the following question >to Ralph Burlingame. However, he was unable to help because he did not have >the problem on his. So, John, and any other Original owners, how did you >cover the cage just below the vertical aileron push rod? When the stick is >pushed left this push rod protrudes below the bottom of the cage. If I >cover the bottom, without some sort of provision, the bottom end of the push >rod would go through the bottom covering material. How did you handle this? > The orig FS and KX/KXP are the same in this respect too. Yes, the vertical aileron pushrod does protrude thru the bottom of the cage covering where it ties to the lower bell-crank. To make a neat and sturdy hole in the bottom covering, I used a "C" shaped piece of plastic and just folded the fabric back over it (to the inside) with Polytac. I cut the C piece from a 3" inspection port ring. (These inspection ports are a ring and aluminum cap, cost about nothin, available at AC Spruce.) Basically I just used covering technique as if this were an inspection port, but without the aluminum cap. The other option is to not make a hole and only make right turns. :-) -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: engine conversion ?
>Hi all, > >For some crazy reason, I'm actually considering upgrading the engine >on my SS from the 503 to something larger. The minimum increase >would be to a 582, but alternatives are also being considered. > >I guess my question is about the cost. What would be the cheapest >way to go from my current 503 (new a year ago with 25 hours now) to a >582? Should I just sell the 503 complete, then buy a 582 complete? >Are there enough interchangeable parts (gearbox, carbs, ignition, >etc) to be worth trying to buy just the bare engine from someone like >LEAF, perhaps with a trade in of mine? Sure wish I had my LEAF >catalog with me here in Cleveland. > >Anybody heard from the 2SI Twinpack SlingShot recently? > >Any other recomendations for a suitable engine ? I sure don't want to say anything that might jeapordize your RV8 budget, but ... If a 2SI Twinpack has any merit in this discussion I would also think HKS should be considered. And, should I muck this up further by mentioning the word Hirth? Rusty, you just gotta get outa Cleveland ...that place is making you crazy. Take deep breaths, then change your daydreams over to which engine to get for your RV8, even if you've already decided. :-) I'm partly serious here because my guess is that any 2-stroke beyond a 503 is still just a 2 stroke, but with more parts to break than a 503 has. So much time down the 2-stroke rat-hole that you'll never get to build your other plane. -Ben 'sour on 2-strokes' Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: May 03, 1998
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: engine conversion ?
> I have not tried one yet but have heard from 3 different sources > that the R&D Aerosports tuned exhaust systems actually perform as > advertised. If true, your 503 would make 62 HP @6500 rpm and 10 lbs more > torque at cruise. Why don't we all encourage you to gamble, ah, invest your > money in one and then let the rest of us know how it works? > Their ad is on page 10 of the May Ultralight Flying , their phone # is > 715-355-0536. For a 503, it is $350 for plain steel, and $495 for > stainless. Pity I don't get the Ultralight Flying magazine. This sounds quite interesting, but I'm not sure it's the answer to my problems. If I had some re-assurance that the engine would tolerate the added power, I'd send them a check in a heartbeat. I'll have to think about this some more, and probably give them a call to get some info. I also recall hearing of a company in Ft. Walton Beach, FL (30 minutes from my house) that makes a higher hp carb for the 503. This falls in the same category of products. I'm mostly looking for cruise speed, but it has to be reliable. My home airport has very few options for a damage free landing if the engine quits during the first/last few minutes of a flight. I'm not sure I really want to be pushing the engine beyond it's design limits. Rusty (Dang that John) Duffy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Date: May 03, 1998
Subject: Re: engine conversion ?
In a message dated 5/2/98 8:56:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rpike(at)preferred.com writes: << What would be the cheapest >way to go from my current 503 (new a year ago with 25 hours now) to a >582? >> To my way of seeing things the cheapest way to get into a 582 is to get a used one. All of the major service centers have used engines for sale. At one point I talked to Phil Lockwood of locwood aviation about getting a rebuilt older 582 that had been brought up to date with all of the improvements. The price was a substantial discount. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1998
From: Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: Re: engine conversion ?
go for it russel it is way cheeper and easier then a whole engine swap, besides curious readers want to know! Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: UL DAD <ULDAD(at)aol.com>
Date: May 03, 1998
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: engine conversion ?
Hi Rusty: the carb from Ft. Walton is an Altimizer. Try www.altimizer.com. Bill Griffin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: UL DAD <ULDAD(at)aol.com>
Date: May 03, 1998
Subject: Fuel tank grommets
Hello fellow Kolb folks: The fuel tank grommet in the bottom of the fuel tank of my original FS is leaking. Gotta change it. Do these things just pull out? Sure hope so. Can't do anything to the fuel tank w/o tearing the fabric off the cage! Got a new grommet from Kolb Co. last week. Bill Griffin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: engine conversion ?
> >I'm mostly looking for cruise speed, but it has to be reliable. My >home airport has very few options for a damage free landing if the >engine quits during the first/last few minutes of a flight. I'm not >sure I really want to be pushing the engine beyond it's design >limits. > >Rusty (Dang that John) Duffy > Know what you mean. I only need a LOT of horsepower for about 30 seconds, then back to normal. One of our local pilot/engineers has covered up all the aerodynamically dirty spots on his Firestar II, and it cruises fast. Wish I could get him on this bbs. Will give him a call, and see if he will e-mail you. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: engine conversion ?
>I'm mostly looking for cruise speed > >Rusty (Dang that John) Duffy > Called Vince up and asked him about more speed for the SS. He said that his Firestar II will easily cruise at 80 with less than full throttle, if he runs a lot of prop pitch. He has a dual carb 503 with the GSC prop. But he said takeoffs and climbout are awful with that much pitch in the prop. He has modified his FS II with fairings, cuffs, etc, but he said that the SS incorporates most of what he has done, so no real help there. Sorry. Richard Pike MKIII N420p (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: May 03, 1998
Subject: Re: Fuel tank grommets
> Hello fellow Kolb folks: The fuel tank grommet in the bottom of the fuel tank > of my original FS is leaking. Gotta change it. Do these things just pull out? > Sure hope so. Can't do anything to the fuel tank w/o tearing the fabric off > the cage! Got a new grommet from Kolb Co. last week. Hi Bill, Bummer about the fabric. My jugs (I can't really call them tanks) are hard to get to, but at least I don't have to mess with the fabric. You might want to consider getting a new jug, and putting the grommet in the top like all the newer Kolbs seem to be. Maybe that would help you avoid the fabric work next time. Just a thought. Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank grommets
Date: May 03, 1998
> Hello fellow Kolb folks: The fuel tank grommet in the bottom of the fuel tank > of my original FS is leaking. Gotta change it. Do these things just pull out? > Sure hope so. Can't do anything to the fuel tank w/o tearing the fabric off > the cage! Got a new grommet from Kolb Co. last week. I had the exact same problem. It took me about 1 hour to reach down under the tank and replace that sucker. I actually have 2 of those very close together, one is for a fuel site line. You will have to reach in from behind the seat with some pliers and yank. Have some Band-Aids handy. I just recovered my Firestar and left the fabric off behind the seat so I can remove the gas tank in the future. Scott Olendorf Original Firestar with Rotax 377 Schenectady, NY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank grommets
Date: May 03, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: Scott Olendorf <olendorf(at)empireone.net> Date: Sunday, May 03, 1998 10:50 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Fuel tank grommets >> Hello fellow Kolb folks: The fuel tank grommet in the bottom of the fuel >tank >> of my original FS is leaking. Gotta change it. Do these things just pull >out? >> Sure hope so. Can't do anything to the fuel tank w/o tearing the fabric >off >> the cage! Got a new grommet from Kolb Co. last week. > > >I had the exact same problem. It took me about 1 hour to reach down under >the tank and replace that sucker. I actually have 2 of those very close >together, one is for a fuel site line. You will have to reach in from >behind the seat with some pliers and yank. Have some Band-Aids handy. I >just recovered my Firestar and left the fabric off behind the seat so I can >remove the gas tank in the future. > Oh, just remembered. I also was able to rotate the tank upside down first. The hard part was removing and replacing the hose clamps. Use a socket wrench on those. Not a fun day. Scott Olendorf Original Firestar with Rotax 377 Schenectady, NY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Chm12345 <Chm12345(at)aol.com>
Date: May 03, 1998
Subject: Ultrastart Info
Dear Kolb friends, I have a friend who's looking at an Ultrastar (I beleive this is how it's called. It's the Kolb with the high tail boom and single engine behing the pilot) to buy it. I haven't seen the airplane yet but I have offered assistance in inspecting it. Is there anything you guys may now about that we should look for in this particular aircraft?. If you have experience with the aircraft, what do you think of it?. Christian Martin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Russell" <jr(at)ROMETOOL.COM>
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: engine conversion ?
Date: May 04, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: Russell Duffy <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com> Date: Sunday, May 03, 1998 11:34 AM Subject: Kolb-List: (Fwd) Re: engine conversion ? >> I have not tried one yet but have heard from 3 different sources >> that the R&D Aerosports tuned exhaust systems actually perform as >> advertised. If true, your 503 would make 62 HP @6500 rpm and 10 lbs more >> torque at cruise. Why don't we all encourage you to gamble, ah, invest your >> money in one and then let the rest of us know how it works? >> Their ad is on page 10 of the May Ultralight Flying , their phone # is >> 715-355-0536. For a 503, it is $350 for plain steel, and $495 for >> stainless. > >Pity I don't get the Ultralight Flying magazine. This sounds quite >interesting, but I'm not sure it's the answer to my problems. If I >had some re-assurance that the engine would tolerate the added power, >I'd send them a check in a heartbeat. I'll have to think about this >some more, and probably give them a call to get some info. > >I also recall hearing of a company in Ft. Walton Beach, FL (30 >minutes from my house) that makes a higher hp carb for the 503. This >falls in the same category of products. > >I'm mostly looking for cruise speed, but it has to be reliable. My >home airport has very few options for a damage free landing if the >engine quits during the first/last few minutes of a flight. I'm not >sure I really want to be pushing the engine beyond it's design >limits. > >Rusty (Dang that John) Duffy >-SORRY RUSTY, I TALKED TO THE GUYS WITH R&D AT SUN & FUN, AND THE GRAPH I SAW DID NOT INCREASE RPM, IT APPEARED TO ME THAT THEY HAVE SPENT ALOT OF TIME ON A DYNO, AND HAVE COME UP WITH A PERFECTLY TUNED EXHAUST. I BELIEVE THERE ORIGINAL BACKGROUND WAS SNOWMOBILE ENGINES. JOHN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Rusty's need for speed
Rusty have you considered the benefits of an in-flight variable pitch prop? I know they are expensive, but I think it is the answer to your needs. I hate to steer anyone toward the IVO product, but there isn't much choice. I know a guy with a Titan, 503 and IVO electric adjustable, and it seems to work great, with adequate take-off and incredible range. If it doesn't satisfy, I know this great newsgroup you can advertise it for sale on... You can't loose much more than a couple hundred dollars on it if you keep it looking good, compare that to an engine swap. Have fun in Cleveland..., isn't that the home of the Rock and Roll museum? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: May 04, 1998
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: engine conversion ?
> I TALKED TO THE GUYS WITH R&D AT SUN & FUN, AND > THE GRAPH I SAW DID NOT INCREASE RPM, IT APPEARED > TO ME THAT THEY HAVE SPENT ALOT OF TIME ON A DYNO, > AND HAVE COME UP WITH A PERFECTLY TUNED EXHAUST. > I BELIEVE THERE ORIGINAL BACKGROUND WAS SNOWMOBILE > ENGINES. > JOHN Dear Troublemaker :-) Thanks to everyone for their comments, but at this point, I'm leaning toward a bigger fix. I just don't think the 503 will be enough engine regardless of the hot rod tricks. The R&D pipe looks good from the ad that Will sent me, but I think I wouldn't be comfortable using the extra power continuously during cruise. For climb, it would be great since that's a fairly brief event that the engine would likely withstand. An in-flight adjustable IVO is something that I had in mind from the beginning. I'm still wondering how much good it would do. I've heard people swear by, and AT them. Currently, I'm thinking a 582 with the R&D pipe would be pretty nice. I'm looking into the cost of swapping now. I might try adding the in-flight adjustable feature to my current prop to see how much good that really does. If I move up to a 582, I'll just order a 3rd blade for my prop and trim them to the appropriate length. An electric starter would be nice too. Many options to consider. Thanks again, Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1998
From: Don Martin <dmartin(at)Ra.MsState.Edu>
Subject: Re: Ultrastart Info
Chm12345 wrote: > > Dear Kolb friends, > > I have a friend who's looking at an Ultrastar (I beleive this is how it's > called. It's the Kolb with the high tail boom and single engine behing the > pilot) to buy it. I haven't seen the airplane yet but I have offered > assistance in inspecting it. Is there anything you guys may now about that we > should look for in this particular aircraft?. If you have experience with the > aircraft, what do you think of it?. > > Christian Martin > Dear Christian, I wish I could point out all the experience I've got with this particular aircraft. But I just soloed in it this past Saturday. Bought it from my BFI. He's a person I'd trust with my life (and did). After 5 flights, my vast experience says this plane is a winner! It's solid in the air and found landings were much easier than when crow hoppin. BFI's name is Steve Wallace, email nette(at)crawdat.com. I'm sure he'd be able to give you much more valuable information. Good luck to your friend. Don Martin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1998
From: T Swartz <Tswartz(at)mail.ptd.net>
Subject: Re: FW: Fly-in breakfast
Scott Bentley wrote: > > The message I sent that bounced... > > > Cc: Doug Lack > > Subject: RE: Fly-in breakfast > > > > I'll try to be there. Doug: You want to fly out with me? > > > > Terry: I presume you saw http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00008.jpg Yes, I enjoyed the photos! > > > > Did you have to go to Allentown to get your certificate? I still don't You may find this hard to believe but my certificate was hand delieverd from the Harrisburg office. A friend of mine knew one the the guys at the FAA office and mentioned my application was coming through. This FAA guy said he had something else to do in Smoketown so he picked it up and brought it down and I met him there. I had it within two weeks of application. Actually, the whole Experimental aircraft process worked very well. FAA sent me all the forms I needed in one package in the very beginning with samples filled out and all the instructions for N number, Airworthiness, Amateur-Built Statement, Repairmans, etc, etc. See ya at Smoketown. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)nationwide.net>
Subject: Humor attempt concerning !!!!POWER!!!!
To all, The ever ongoing never ending persuit of POWER !!!!! More is better!!! I think I will re-engine... My wife and I just got back from the drag races. Those cars reach over 300 mph in about 4 seconds and darned near break your ear drums doing it... even with your ears stuffed with stoppers. I have never heard such a noise. It goes right through your bones. The acrid smoke of tire rubber and who know what kind of exhaust fumes. Really bad stuff to breath. ...but exciting it is!!! Anyway, perhaps one of those engines would fit on my Kolb. I would have to put a training wheel about half way back on tbe boom to prevent the tail spring from being bent and about a ton of counter weight in the nose. Of course, I would have to beef up the main gear and engine mount, install a huge fuel tank, an accelerometer and mach meter and maybe a blast diverter at the take off end of my airport. Hot dang, the excitement and rush it would provide. Give me MORE POWER!!! Actually, the 582 already pushes my head back deep into the seat cushion (small exageration here) as it accelerates to takeoff in 3 or 4 seconds and then transitions to an extroidinary climb (the kind of course only a Kolb can do... and the people who see it say... Ooooooooh!!!) to pattern altitude even before reaching the end of the runway. To then power back and float around the pattern to approach and land (and if needed assistance of the barn door - elevator like - put it on the ground right now - flaps). Nah! On second though, I have enough power. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (43.3 hrs) (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WVarnes <WVarnes(at)aol.com>
Date: May 04, 1998
Subject: Re: Humor attempt concerning !!!!POWER!!!!
<< To all, The ever ongoing never ending persuit of POWER !!!!! More is better!!! I think I will re-engine... >> Sounds like Tim "the toolman " Taylor to me. Uhhhh! Ahhhh! Uhhhh! MORE POWER!!! Bill Varnes Original FireStar (with anemic 377 power) Audubon, NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TSherret <TSherret(at)PrismSolutions.com>
Subject: RE: Humor attempt concerning !!!!POWER!!!!
Date: May 04, 1998
Perhaps a used steam catapult from a decommissioned carrier would suffice. http://www.chinfo.navy.mil/navpalib/ships/carriers/g-washington/gw-cats1.jpg > -----Original Message----- > From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling [SMTP:striplic(at)nationwide.net] > Sent: Monday, May 04, 1998 12:10 PM > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Humor attempt concerning !!!!POWER!!!! > > To all, > > The ever ongoing never ending persuit of POWER !!!!! More is better!!! I > think I will re-engine... > > My wife and I just got back from the drag races. Those cars reach over > 300 > mph in about 4 seconds and darned near break your ear drums doing it... > even > with your ears stuffed with stoppers. I have never heard such a noise. > It > goes right through your bones. The acrid smoke of tire rubber and who > know > what kind of exhaust fumes. Really bad stuff to breath. ...but exciting > it is!!! > > Anyway, perhaps one of those engines would fit on my Kolb. I would have > to > put a training wheel about half way back on tbe boom to prevent the tail > spring from being bent and about a ton of counter weight in the nose. Of > course, I would have to beef up the main gear and engine mount, install a > huge fuel tank, an accelerometer and mach meter and maybe a blast diverter > at the take off end of my airport. Hot dang, the excitement and rush it > would provide. Give me MORE POWER!!! > > Actually, the 582 already pushes my head back deep into the seat cushion > (small exageration here) as it accelerates to takeoff in 3 or 4 seconds > and > then transitions to an extroidinary climb (the kind of course only a Kolb > can do... and the people who see it say... Ooooooooh!!!) to pattern > altitude > even before reaching the end of the runway. To then power back and float > around the pattern to approach and land (and if needed assistance of the > barn door - elevator like - put it on the ground right now - flaps). > > Nah! On second though, I have enough power. > > Later, > > -- > Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (43.3 hrs) > (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas > Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel > ____________________|_____________________ > ___(+^+)___ > (_) > 8 8 > > > - ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel tank grommets
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 04, 1998
I've never had to replace the tank grommet on my Original FireStar. They do pull out because I really had to push it in there when I put it in. You may consider either leaving the rear section of the cage uncovered, like I did, or cover just the bottom half like the FireFly. In either case cut off the ducktail and the steel plugs used to support the aluminum ribs on the cage. I used a dremel tool with a cutting disk to cut the steel. It cuts through like butter and you can get in close. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar >Hello fellow Kolb folks: The fuel tank grommet in the bottom of the >fuel tank of my original FS is leaking. Gotta change it. Do these things just >pull out? Sure hope so. Can't do anything to the fuel tank w/o tearing the >fabric off the cage! Got a new grommet from Kolb Co. last week. > >Bill Griffin >- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: (Fwd) Re: engine conversion ?
Date: May 04, 1998
Be prepared to fly the time off again. Ron -----Original Message----- From: Russell Duffy <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com> Date: Monday May 04 1998 8:32 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: (Fwd) Re: engine conversion ? >> I TALKED TO THE GUYS WITH R&D AT SUN & FUN, AND >> THE GRAPH I SAW DID NOT INCREASE RPM, IT APPEARED >> TO ME THAT THEY HAVE SPENT ALOT OF TIME ON A DYNO, >> AND HAVE COME UP WITH A PERFECTLY TUNED EXHAUST. >> I BELIEVE THERE ORIGINAL BACKGROUND WAS SNOWMOBILE >> ENGINES. >> JOHN > >Dear Troublemaker :-) > >Thanks to everyone for their comments, but at this point, I'm >leaning toward a bigger fix. I just don't think the 503 will be >enough engine regardless of the hot rod tricks. > >The R&D pipe looks good from the ad that Will sent me, but I think I >wouldn't be comfortable using the extra power continuously during >cruise. For climb, it would be great since that's a fairly brief >event that the engine would likely withstand. > >An in-flight adjustable IVO is something that I had in mind from the >beginning. I'm still wondering how much good it would do. I've >heard people swear by, and AT them. > >Currently, I'm thinking a 582 with the R&D pipe would be pretty nice. >I'm looking into the cost of swapping now. I might try adding the >in-flight adjustable feature to my current prop to see how much good >that really does. If I move up to a 582, I'll just order a 3rd blade >for my prop and trim them to the appropriate length. An electric >starter would be nice too. Many options to consider. > >Thanks again, >Rusty >- ________________________________________________________________________________ (Netscape Mail Server v1.1) with SMTP id AAA237
From: LLMoore(at)tapnet.net (Lauren L. Moore)
Subject: original firestar
Date: May 04, 1998
Hello Kolbers..I got another question for you. I recently brought an original Firestar home and in setting it up from its folded state I notice that there is an awful lot of play in the connection of the strut to the fuselage and also to the wing for that matter. When I put in the pin and secure with the safety pin, there still is probably 1/4 or 3/8 inch fore and aft of the pin. Is this normal or should there be a bushing to take up the play there. At such a critical connection point I want to find out before attempting even a hop. Thanks Larry in Sussex - original Firestar
    Hello Kolbers..I got another question for you. I recently brought an original Firestar home and in setting it up from its folded state I notice that there is an awful lot of play in the connection of the strut to the fuselage and also to the wing for that matter. When I put in the pin and secure with the safety pin, there still is probably 1/4 or 3/8 inch fore and aft of the pin. Is this normal or should there be a bushing to take up the play there. At such a critical connection point I want to find out before attempting even a hop. Thanks     Larry in Sussex - original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1998
Subject: Re: kolb: cutting cables easier.
From: pl4coop(at)juno.com (robert w. cooper)
writes: >I have always used a swiss made cable cutting tool called FELCO C7 >with excellent results. The ends are square with absolutely no >fraying and no need for tape. Cost, around $45. Ray Lujon >_________________________________________________________________Hi Gang A little slow in offering this note. Yes, the FELCO C-7 is an excellent tool for cutting cable. Cost today at "Wicks" is $47.55. However, if you belong to an EAA Chapter generally someone has this type of tool you can borrow. Ray Lujon is right on the money. This past weekend EAA Chapter had their annual Pancake Fly-In breakfast. The weather gods where not in our favor. Aircraft fly-in's were from close by, but one was a Kolb Firestar - owner/builder/pilot Ken Mancus with close to 500 hours flying time. We had a GREAT 2 days meeting new and old friends just taking flying!! Mon May 4, 1998 Bob Cooper Malaga, NJ Owner pilot of Pazmany PL-4A and a Kolb wanna-be. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: original firestar
Larry, My original Firestar is the same and has 345 hours, including 0.8 hours tonight, so it should be O.K. John Jung Original Firestar For Sale http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/ > >Lauren L. Moore wrote: > > Hello Kolbers..I got another question for you. I recently brought > an original Firestar home and in setting it up from its folded state I > notice that there is an awful lot of play in the connection of the > strut to the fuselage and also to the wing for that matter. When I > put in the pin and secure with the safety pin, there still is probably > 1/4 or 3/8 inch fore and aft of the pin. Is this normal or should > there be a bushing to take up the play there. At such a critical > connection point I want to find out before attempting even a hop. > Thanks Larry in Sussex - original Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Ultrastart Info
Christian, There are several Ultrastars in my area (SE Wisconsin) that I have been aware of. They have spent much more time being repaired then being flown. I believe that the design is unforgiving for pilots with less than necessary experience. They are much more difficult to repair than a Quicksilver. Their pilots claim that they are great flyers, and some prefer their flight characteristics to Firestars. I my opinion, they can be good planes for the right pilot, but the right pilot probably knows what an Ultrastar is, and is willing to accept it's limitations. John Jung > >Chm12345 wrote: > > Dear Kolb friends, > > I have a friend who's looking at an Ultrastar (I beleive this is how it's > called. It's the Kolb with the high tail boom and single engine behing the > pilot) to buy it. I haven't seen the airplane yet but I have offered > assistance in inspecting it. Is there anything you guys may now about that we > should look for in this particular aircraft?. If you have experience with the > aircraft, what do you think of it?. > > Christian Martin > - ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: original firestar
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 04, 1998
Larry, I made aluminum bushings for the bottom struts on both sides. You could go to a hardware store and find some 1/4" nylon bushings and cut them to length. Do the same for the 5/16" clevis pins on the cage holding the wings. This will keep the pins from backing out to the safety rings (you guys are using rings, I hope, instead of the safety clips that came with the kit). Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: > Hello Kolbers..I got another question for you. I recently brought >an original Firestar home and in setting it up from its folded state I >notice that there is an awful lot of play in the connection of the >strut to the fuselage and also to the wing for that matter. When I put in >the pin and secure with the safety pin, there still is probably 1/4 or 3/8 >inch fore and aft of the pin. Is this normal or should there be a >bushing to take up the play there. At such a critical connection >point I want to find out before attempting even a hop. >Thanks Larry in > >Sussex - original Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ultrastart Info
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 04, 1998
Christian, I had a chance to fly an UltraStar once and it's a very nice plane. It's drag is lower than you would think and has a good cruise because the pilots profile is inline with the engine's drag. It's very light and does it climb! The day I flew it, the thermals were active and I got up to 3000' agl and didn't think I was ever going to come down. The Hall airspeed indicator read 60 mph. I agree with John Jung about flying one, they are a higher performance ultralight and should to be flown like one. I wish the factory still made them along with the Original FireStar. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar >Christian, >There are several Ultrastars in my area (SE Wisconsin) that I have >been aware of. They have spent much more time being repaired then >being flown. I believe that the design is unforgiving for pilots with less >than necessary experience. They are much more difficult to repair than >a Quicksilver. Their pilots claim that they are great flyers, and some >prefer their flight characteristics to Firestars. I my opinion, they >can be good planes for the right pilot, but the right pilot probably knows >what an Ultrastar is, and is willing to accept it's limitations. >John Jung >> >>Chm12345 wrote: >> >> Dear Kolb friends, >> >> I have a friend who's looking at an Ultrastar (I beleive this is how >>it's called. It's the Kolb with the high tail boom and single engine >>behind the pilot) to buy it. I haven't seen the airplane yet but I have offered >>assistance in inspecting it. Is there anything you guys may now >>about that we should look for in this particular aircraft?. If you have experience >>with the aircraft, what do you think of it?. >> >> Christian Martin >> - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Rings
> > >Larry, > >This will keep the pins from backing out to the safety rings (you >guys are using rings, I hope, instead of the safety clips that came with >the kit). > >Ralph Burlingame >Original FireStar > > > Years ago, the local Hummer dealer had a ring snatched out by a twig while taking off from a grass strip. Rings are better than safety pins, but can be improved by wrapping them with a 3" long strip of electrical tape. Let about 1" hang out in the breeze, and you can easily unwrap it when you get ready to disassemble. Makes it almost impossible for them to be knocked out, and doesn't look too tackey. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 5 May 1998 07:32:52 UT (Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA17797;
Date: May 05, 1998
Subject: Re[2]: kolb: cutting cables easier.
If you have a Dremel tool (high speed electric motor) they work great. Use one of the ".020 thick abrasive blades. Wear goggles, only one set per customer. Don't forget to put your second backup ferrule on before cutting. 1. Mark the cable where you want to cut it. (Hint - those copper wire clamps used to connect large copper wires together work very well for holding the cable in position during the swaging operation) 2. Wrap a short piece of masking around the cable centered over the mark - Cut at through the masking tape and the cable. The masking tape prevents the cable from fraying while cutting - the blade kind of lightly welds the small wires together if you do it right. 3. Peel the remaining tape off. Time for ice tea. Jerry ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: kolb: cutting cables easier. Date: 5/4/98 8:36 PM writes: >I have always used a swiss made cable cutting tool called FELCO C7 >with excellent results. The ends are square with absolutely no >fraying and no need for tape. Cost, around $45. Ray Lujon >_________________________________________________________________Hi Gang A little slow in offering this note. Yes, the FELCO C-7 is an excellent tool for cutting cable. Cost today at "Wicks" is $47.55. However, if you belong to an EAA Chapter generally someone has this type of tool you can borrow. Ray Lujon is right on the money. This past weekend EAA Chapter had their annual Pancake Fly-In breakfast. The weather gods where not in our favor. Aircraft fly-in's were from close by, but one was a Kolb Firestar - owner/builder/pilot Ken Mancus with close to 500 hours flying time. We had a GREAT 2 days meeting new and old friends just taking flying!! Mon May 4, 1998 Bob Cooper Malaga, NJ Owner pilot of Pazmany PL-4A and a Kolb wanna-be. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 5 May 1998 07:32:52 UT (Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA17796;
Date: May 05, 1998
Subject: Re[2]: (Fwd) Re: engine conversion ?
The problem the ThunderGull guys have had with the in flight adjustable is the vibration from the Rotax shakes the electric motors apart. They tried a different motor and thought they had it licked but as a while it had problems also. Some inspectors will reduce you test time if you already had some time on the airplane. Expect anywhere from 10-25 hours. Jerry ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: (Fwd) Re: engine conversion ? Date: 5/4/98 8:19 PM Be prepared to fly the time off again. Ron -----Original Message----- From: Russell Duffy <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com> Date: Monday May 04 1998 8:32 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: (Fwd) Re: engine conversion ? >> I TALKED TO THE GUYS WITH R&D AT SUN & FUN, AND >> THE GRAPH I SAW DID NOT INCREASE RPM, IT APPEARED >> TO ME THAT THEY HAVE SPENT ALOT OF TIME ON A DYNO, >> AND HAVE COME UP WITH A PERFECTLY TUNED EXHAUST. >> I BELIEVE THERE ORIGINAL BACKGROUND WAS SNOWMOBILE >> ENGINES. >> JOHN > >Dear Troublemaker :-) > >Thanks to everyone for their comments, but at this point, I'm >leaning toward a bigger fix. I just don't think the 503 will be >enough engine regardless of the hot rod tricks. > >The R&D pipe looks good from the ad that Will sent me, but I think I >wouldn't be comfortable using the extra power continuously during >cruise. For climb, it would be great since that's a fairly brief >event that the engine would likely withstand. > >An in-flight adjustable IVO is something that I had in mind from the >beginning. I'm still wondering how much good it would do. I've >heard people swear by, and AT them. > >Currently, I'm thinking a 582 with the R&D pipe would be pretty nice. >I'm looking into the cost of swapping now. I might try adding the >in-flight adjustable feature to my current prop to see how much good >that really does. If I move up to a 582, I'll just order a 3rd blade >for my prop and trim them to the appropriate length. An electric >starter would be nice too. Many options to consider. > >Thanks again, >Rusty >- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject:Richard Pike's modifications > Also they claim 82 HP for the 532, and if my wing/windshield mod >doesn't give me the performance I expect, (3 more weeks and it will be ready >to test) I will be letting all of you know how well their pipe works on the >water cooled Rotax. Richard, does your mod to the windshield/wing attempt to reduce the drag? If so, please post results after testing, including photos if you can, a few of us want to cruise faster. Thanks! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Firestar II vs Original Firestar
Group, Last night I answered one more of my questions about the differences in the original Firestar and the II. Stall speed. I had thought that the II stalled 7 mph faster than the original. I retested the original last night in very calm, smooth air, with a GPS, and the real difference is 3 mph.(35 vs 38) My Firestar II weighs more, has 10" clipped off each wingtip and has the II's smaller ailerons, so 3 mph is reasonable. Next, I will be testing the full windscreen on the II. John Jung Firestar II N6163J 4.8 hrs Original Firestar For Sale ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Name that plane
Date: May 05, 1998
My original Firestar is coming along nicely (thanks to guys like John & Ralph). Will finish covering very soon and start painting. Next comes the blah, blah, blah . . . The time for christening will be here and I can't help but wonder what some of you guys call your planes. I've always liked "By George" (GeoR38), and I'm pretty sure many others have names and tales of how the name came about. Right now my top candidate name is "Cumulus Bimbo", but may get some other ideas from the list. Ron Carroll Original Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "friend(at)bright.net" <dczolling(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: engine insturments
Date: May 05, 1998
Hello I would like comments on who makes agood electronic engine monitor dual CHT/EGT ,TACH. Thanks in advance Duane FS2 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: May 05, 1998
Subject: Re: engine insturments
> I would like comments on who makes agood electronic > engine monitor dual CHT/EGT ,TACH. > Thanks in advance Duane FS2 The Grand Rapids EIS unit is great IMO. It's a bit more expensive compared to the essential instruments, but it gets to be a better value when you consider all the other features it gives you. Perhaps the best part is the small size for all you get. Mine is currently providing- dual EGT, dual CHT, Tach, Engine hours, Flight timer, Fuel gauge (using aux input). There are other functions built in, but you have to have the sensors. Also, you can get optional features like fuel flow, and ASI/VSI. The only gripe I have with the unit is that you can't customize the main screen that you view during flight. They give you several options that include several parameters each, but it always seems to end up showing something you aren't using, like coolant temp, or OAT. Nevertheless, I like it, and will likely use on in the RV as well. Rusty (only a few more days) Duffy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rutledge fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: BRS 4 UL1
Date: May 05, 1998
If anyone is interested, I have a BRS 4 UL1 (out of date $690 for BRS to upgrade/repack to a BRS 5) that I would like to sell. Price nego. I am going to upgrade to the BRS 5 UL2 Leading Edge Softpack for the Firestar. This model is supposed to fit under the gap seal. Does anyone out there have this model. Any comments for me before purchase? I would also be interested in any used gap seal softpacks 750 lbs. chutes. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: original firestar
>>>> Hello Kolbers..I got another question for you. I recently brought an original still is probably 1/4 or 3/8 inch fore and aft of the pin. Is this normal or should there be a bushing to take up the play there. At such a critical connection point I want to find out before attempting even a hop. Thanks Larry in Sussex - original Firestar <<<<<<<< Larry, The front-back slop is "normal" for the lift-strut-to-cage, but like others have replied, I also use bushings. I cut my bushings from 5/16" AL tubing, works great. I don't know why Kolb made such a wide space in the cage receiving end for the lift strut. Maybe the clevis pin is way stronger than necessary anyway, and the wide gap is just something that didn't get refined for production. Although the wide gap is obviously strong enf, it is not ideal aesthetically (or from an engineering stand-point), and bushings are an easy fix. On the lift-strut-to-wing clevis fitting, there is no play in the per-plans design. Kolb has taken care of this with the steel piece bolted onto the wing tang. Ralph: On the main-spar-to-cage you mention that your bushings keep the pins from riding out against the rings. I don't see how, unless you mean that the pins can simply ride out to the point of pushing the bushings against the rings. I'm not sure this is any better except that soft bushings (such as nylon or rubber?) would be softer against the rings. Could you please clarify? And to anyone, over the years I've heard several people say that rings are better than Clevis safety clips, yet so far as I know, Kolb still ships with safety clips. For this reason I personally have stayed with the safety clips. I've replaced them with new clips at about 100 hours to be on the safe side. As for changing to rings, I know it is possible to go buy rings that "look right", but they may be a lousy alloy meant for nothin much more than your keys. How do you know they are good enf to hang your hide on? (I once bought a set from LEAF, and just didn't like the looks of them.) -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: BRS chute
Date: May 05, 1998
I have a BRS-5 UL-2 chute from my Pterodactyl. I called BRS to see what I need to mount it on my Original Firestar and the parts come to $281, plus freight. WOW! The parts are for mounting it behind the seat, not in the gap seal area. I could mount it in the gap seal area for next to nothing. I realize the 'potential' hazards of a top mounted chute becoming entangled with a collapsed wing (any other considerations?), but it sounds like most Kolbers have them there. If it is mounted behind the seat it has to penetrate the Poly Fiber covering on the cage when deployed. Maybe there should be an 'exit' door in the side of the cage. Also, I would have to provide access to it for maintenance and inspections. I'm just trying to get a feel for what to do before I finish covering the cage (sorry, Ralph, I'm covering the rear too) Ron Carroll. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rutledge fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BRS chute
Date: May 05, 1998
Ron and group: I spoke at length with Dan from BRS yesterday afternoon. Between the two mounting options for the Firestar, he recommended the softpack gap seal mount to me. I specifically asked about folded wings using this mount. He did not feel that this was a problem. Any comments? >From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> >To: "Kolb mail list" >Subject: BRS chute >Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 08:30:13 -0700 > >I have a BRS-5 UL-2 chute from my Pterodactyl. I called BRS to see what I >need to mount it on my Original Firestar and the parts come to $281, plus >freight. WOW! The parts are for mounting it behind the seat, not in the >gap seal area. I could mount it in the gap seal area for next to nothing. > >I realize the 'potential' hazards of a top mounted chute becoming entangled >with a collapsed wing (any other considerations?), but it sounds like most >Kolbers have them there. If it is mounted behind the seat it has to >penetrate the Poly Fiber covering on the cage when deployed. Maybe there >should be an 'exit' door in the side of the cage. Also, I would have to >provide access to it for maintenance and inspections. > >I'm just trying to get a feel for what to do before I finish covering the >cage (sorry, Ralph, I'm covering the rear too) > >Ron Carroll. > > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Engine instruments...
I have had good luck with the cheap Skysports instruments. They are mounted in a 1/8" aluminum panel, shock mounted to the fiberglass nose. I lost one EGT sending unit (of course), and a ground wire broke on the engine from vibration, otherwise all is well. The EIS looks cool and I like the alarm features, but I am a proponent of simplicity and I like the idea that if I get a bad instrument after the warranty period, it will cost less to replace the discrete analog units than starting over with a new 600 dollar EIS (probably less to replace one instrument than to repair EIS, if repairable). Also, I see what I want at a glance, the instruments I've chosen. Be sure to provide some vibe isolation for whatever you choose, it will prolong the life greatly. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: BRS 4 UL1
I have the softpack in the gap seal, and I think it is the best chute installation for a Firestar. John Jung > >rutledge fuller wrote: > > If anyone is interested, I have a BRS 4 UL1 (out of date $690 for BRS to > upgrade/repack to a BRS 5) that I would like to sell. Price nego. I am > going to upgrade to the BRS 5 UL2 Leading Edge Softpack for the > Firestar. This model is supposed to fit under the gap seal. Does > anyone out there have this model. Any comments for me before purchase? > I would also be interested in any used gap seal softpacks 750 lbs. > chutes. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: BRS chute
Ron, I used to worry about an 'exit' for the chute too, until I whatched one deploy through three layers of fabric at Oshkosh. It went through the dacron like it was tissue paper. John Jung > >Ron Carroll wrote: >snip >If it is mounted behind the seat it has to > penetrate the Poly Fiber covering on the cage when deployed. Maybe there > should be an 'exit' door in the side of the cage. >snip > Ron Carroll. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: May 05, 1998
Subject: Re: Engine instruments...
> The EIS looks cool and I like the alarm > features, but I am a proponent of simplicity and I like the idea that if I > get a bad instrument after the warranty period, it will cost less to replace > the discrete analog units than starting over with a new 600 dollar EIS > (probably less to replace one instrument than to repair EIS, if repairable). Well, let's shoot this one down....quickly. Talked to Greg, owner of Grand Rapids, on 5/5/98. Out of 2000 + units sold, two have come back for repairs. One of those involved an LCD failure from suspected extreme cold. The other was a component failure. And, get this....to date, Greg has only charged one....that's uno, ichi, .....person $40 for a repair that was self-inflicted by the owner (he opened the case to do his own mods and didn't quite get it right....fried the unit, as a matter of fact). So.....make your choice. Jim Baker Pres, USUA Club 104 Frontier Ultralight Aviators Oklahoma City ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Instruments, warranty...
>Well, let's shoot this one down....quickly. Talked to Greg, owner of >Grand Rapids, on 5/5/98. Out of 2000 + units sold, two have come back >for repairs. One of those involved an LCD failure from suspected >extreme cold. The other was a component failure. And, get this....to >date, Greg has only charged one....that's uno, ichi, .....person $40 That is GREAT! This Greg is really trying hard to get and keep your business at this early stage of his product's life. I am impressed. I hope he can keep it up for you. I wonder how long he can stay in business doing out-of-warranty repair for free? Hopefully for as long as you own your plane. That would be really cool. Guess I should've bought one. Thanks for "shooting me down". ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com>
kolb(at)intrig.com
Subject: RE: Instruments, warranty...
Date: May 05, 1998
Golly, I guess I'm the one in 2000, since I did in fact return mine... But I enthusiastically endorse Grand Rapids Technology. They've been great. > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM > [SMTP:GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM] > Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 3:55 PM > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Instruments, warranty... > > >Well, let's shoot this one down....quickly. Talked to Greg, owner of > >Grand Rapids, on 5/5/98. Out of 2000 + units sold, two have come back > >for repairs. One of those involved an LCD failure from suspected > >extreme cold. The other was a component failure. And, get this....to > >date, Greg has only charged one....that's uno, ichi, .....person $40 > > > That is GREAT! This Greg is really trying hard to get and keep your > business > at this early stage of his product's life. I am impressed. > I hope he can keep it up for you. I wonder how long he can stay in > business > doing out-of-warranty repair for free? Hopefully for as long as you own > your > plane. That would be really cool. Guess I should've bought one. Thanks > for > "shooting me down". > - ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Name that plane
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 05, 1998
Ron, How about "Sweet Fifteen" since it's serial #15, isn't it? Ralph B. writes: >My original Firestar is coming along nicely (thanks to guys like John >& Ralph). Will finish covering very soon and start painting. Next comes >the blah, blah, blah . . . > >The time for christening will be here and I can't help but wonder what >some of you guys call your planes. I've always liked "By George" (GeoR38), >and I'm pretty sure many others have names and tales of how the name came >about. Right now my top candidate name is "Cumulus Bimbo", but may get some >other ideas from the list. > >Ron Carroll >Original Firestar > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: covering you rear
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 05, 1998
Ron (Carroll), I didn't cover the rear portion of my Original FireStar cage for a number of reasons. If you do cover, it will give you more drag because the area along the sides and in back of the seat acts like a parachute to capture air if the cockpit is left open. This explains in part why my 377 pushes it along at a 60 mph cruise. The other reasons are: saves weight, access to the tank, inspection of the cage and aileron linkage, I can see the tank for positive fuel management, I can see behind me while in flight, and I never have to replace the covering when it gets worn out from being saturated with spilled fuel. Nice benefits, huh? Ralph (just trying to be safe) Burlingame Original FireStar ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rings
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 05, 1998
Richard, I've never had one come out or even look like it was going to come out in all the years I've been flying this off of grass. I setup and take it down everytime I fly too. You do remember the post about the safety clip that did come loose. Which would you prefer? Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >> Years ago, the local Hummer dealer had a ring snatched out by >a twig while taking off from a grass strip. Rings are better than safety >pins, but can be improved by wrapping them with a 3" long strip of electrical >tape. Let about 1" hang out in the breeze, and you can easily unwrap it when >you get ready to disassemble. Makes it almost impossible for them to be >knocked out, and doesn't look too tackey. > > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) > >- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: original firestar
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 05, 1998
Ben, Without a bushing of some sort on the main 5/16" clevis pins, they will back out no matter which way you install them. The bushing is mainly to keep the pin centered in the cage so your safety is in the middle of the pin rather than toward the end of it. I can see the end of the clevis pins and the safety rings in flight and it's somewhat disturbing to see the clevis pins backed out to the safety ring w/o the bushing. Maybe it's just a psychological thing, but a bushing makes me feel safer. I think if you stick with the stainless steel rings you can't go wrong. Ralph (just trying to be safe) Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >Ralph: On the main-spar-to-cage you mention that your bushings keep >the pins from riding out against the rings. I don't see how, unless you mean >that the pins can simply ride out to the point of pushing the bushings >against the rings. I'm not sure this is any better except that soft bushings >(such as nylon or rubber?) would be softer against the rings. Could you >please > >clarify? > >And to anyone, over the years I've heard several people say that rings >are better than Clevis safety clips, yet so far as I know, Kolb still >ships with safety clips. For this reason I personally have stayed with the >safety clips. I've replaced them with new clips at about 100 hours to be on >the safe side. As for changing to rings, I know it is possible to go buy >rings that "look right", but they may be a lousy alloy meant for nothin much >more than your keys. How do you know they are good enf to hang your hide >on? > >(I once bought a set from LEAF, and just didn't like the looks of them.) > > >-Ben Ransom >- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1998
From: Jhann Gestur Jhannsson <johann.g(at)centrum.is>
Subject: Used Rotax 447?
Hi Kolbers. I have been asked by a fellow ultralighter here in Iceland to try to find him a used Rotax 447 engine from USA. Does anyone on the list have or know of any such engine for sale? Thanks in advance, Jhann G. Iceland. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
From: "Henry C. Wortman" <hwortman(at)mail.datasys.net>
Subject: Fatality
The following link is about an ultralite fatality between Savannah & Hinesville, GA. that occured last Sunday. http://www.savannahnow.com/stories/050498/LOCpilotcrash.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Chm12345 <Chm12345(at)aol.com>
Date: May 05, 1998
Subject: Re: Engine instruments...
Dear Kolb friends, Greg (the guy that manufactures the EIS) has treated me so well I fell obligated to write this comment. I have an EIS in my Firestar and I absolutely love it. Not only that, I had initial problems with my instrument readings, and Greg sent me a new one just because it would be easier to diagnose the problem (it was later found taht the problem was the voltage rectifier/regulator and not the instrument). After fixing the problem, the instrument has worked great so far. My instrument includes all engine monitoring stuff, standard with the EIS, plus the altimeter, rate of climb reading and fuel level (I have the rear bulkhead covered with fabric). This is really a nice way to go in the tiny Firestar panel if you want all this instrumentation. I'm sure that if the instrument needs to be repaired, he'll charge you the minimum required. I noticed he takes great pride in his instrument so he won't rip you off. I also bought my airspeed indicator, fuel level probe and BRS from him. No, I don't own stock in his company (chuck) but I'm truly pleased with having him supply me this items. If you buy his instrument, I recommend you call him. Chris Martin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Name that plane
>My original Firestar is coming along nicely (thanks to guys like John & >Ralph). Will finish covering very soon and start painting. Next comes the >blah, blah, blah . . . > >The time for christening will be here and I can't help but wonder what some >of you guys call your planes. I've always liked "By George" (GeoR38), and >I'm pretty sure many others have names and tales of how the name came about. >Right now my top candidate name is "Cumulus Bimbo", but may get some other >ideas from the list. > >Ron Carroll >Original Firestar Hi Ron, Glad you're nearing the [blah, blah, blah ...] stage. :) My $.02 on the naming: I'd stay away from names with a personally derisive although humorous slant. It just seems a bad idea to give "anti-ultralighters" more material than they come up with on their own. -Ben 'no plane name' Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
From: Jeff Stripling <jstripli(at)io.com>
Subject: Trying to locate Lowell Metz (fwd)
Forwarded to the list: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Chm12345 <Chm12345(at)aol.com> Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 21:20:43 EDT Dear Kolb friends, I'd like to get in touch with Lowell Metz. If anyone knows his e-mail address I'd like to rely him this note. In any case Lowell, if you [are a member of] this list, it is you the one that needs to be congratulated for your achievement in Sun'n Fun. Your Firestar is truly a work of art, and now that it has Holmer's signature, it's even an original. Please let me know your e-mail so that we can stay in touch. I got your phone call. What a joy and surprise, thanks. For those who don't know Lowell's Firestar, it is painted like a Monarch butterfly and it is truly spectacular. He achieved "Reserve Grand Champion" status at SnF. Way to go !!. Chris Martin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: BRS chute
>I realize the 'potential' hazards of a top mounted chute becoming entangled >with a collapsed wing (any other considerations?), but it sounds like most >Kolbers have them there. Heres one for Dennis If any one knows you do.Don't be shy we need the info. What are the main causes of crashes in Kolbs and what structual failures have occured (not counting the famous test pilot who went out to pull the wings off an Ultrastar.) Dick Woody ________________________________________________________________________________ by PM04SM.PMM.MCI.NET (PMDF V5.1-10 #27036)
Date: May 05, 1998
From: Larry Bourne <BigLar(at)MCI2000.com>
Subject: Lost Mail
Hello Group: Well, I lost my service with MCI on 4/28. After a LOT of thrashing and roaring around, and many hours on hold, I finally got hooked back up a few minutes ago. This is the last - and final - issue in a long string of frustrations and angry-vations with MCI. Tonight I'll hook up with Earthlink and Hotmail. Mean-while, when I checked for new mail after all this time, there were just 15 messages. 15.....huh !! Then I realized they were all from 4/28/98. Last one was John Jung at 9:02 AM about Dual CDI Rotax. A call to MCI on the cell phone resulted in a 45 min. hold, followed by a dial tone. Aaaaarrrrrgggghh !!!! Does anyone know if the missing messages can be accessed through Majordomo, or somewhere - anywhere ??? I really enjoy the interplay on our group, and hate the idea of all that gone down the tube. Help !! Big Lar ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)tcac.net>
Subject: Re: Rings
Date: May 05, 1998
I don't know if this is true, but FWIW I have heard that some FAA inspectors don't like the safety pins and insist on rings. Tom King 124 King Dome Road Our name is King, our house is a Dome, and it's OUR road! -----Original Message----- From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 5:03 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Rings >Richard, > >I've never had one come out or even look like it was going to come out in >all the years I've been flying this off of grass. I setup and take it >down everytime I fly too. You do remember the post about the safety clip >that did come loose. Which would you prefer? > >Ralph Burlingame >Original FireStar > > >writes: > >>> Years ago, the local Hummer dealer had a ring snatched out by >>a twig while taking off from a grass strip. Rings are better than safety > >>pins, but can be improved by wrapping them with a 3" long strip of >electrical >>tape. Let about 1" hang out in the breeze, and you can easily unwrap it >when >>you get ready to disassemble. Makes it almost impossible for them to be >>knocked out, and doesn't look too tackey. >> >> Richard Pike >> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >> >>- > >_____________________________________________________________________ >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com >Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 1998
Subject: Re: Instruments
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
The EIS seems like a wonderful bunch of gages all wrapped in a very small package but you do give up some advantages in the bargain. If the power fails, ALL the gages fail. Same for the display and probably a few other "single component failures" would result in the loss of all. It does sound like the unit is very reliable 'tho and after all, it's not like anyone will be using it for IFR flight (well, maybe I assume too much!). My only problem with electronic gadgets is that I've made my living with them (computers) for nearly 20 years now (forgive me, Ron Carroll). There's an old saying, "Familiarity breeds contempt." There's also an old flying adage, "Trust Your Instruments." But my personal favorite is a line from an old movie, "Open the pod bay doors HAL! ....HAL!!!" Bernoulli and Newton have done ok by me. Bill Gates on the other hand.... -Mick ("Lightening BAD ..Fire GOOD!") Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: New Address
Date: May 05, 1998
Hi All: My new e-mail address is larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net ex-biglar(at)MCI2000.com Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Rings
>Richard, > >I've never had one come out or even look like it was going to come out in >all the years I've been flying this off of grass. I setup and take it >down everytime I fly too. You do remember the post about the safety clip >that did come loose. Which would you prefer? > >Ralph Burlingame >Original FireStar Ralph, I am using the safety pins that came with the kit, but they are rusty, and need to be replaced. It is time for the stainless steel rings and electrical tape! One other more cynical consideration: a stainless steel ring wrapped with about three turns of electrical tape is less likely to be "adjusted" by stupid or malicious passers-by, and the condition is evident at a glance, while the safety pin clip is easier to open, and to be open, but still in the clevis pin. We DO live in evil days... Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Date: May 06, 1998
Subject: Re: BRS chute
In a message dated 5/5/98 7:06:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time, richard.wood(at)usa.net writes: << What are the main causes of crashes in Kolbs and what structual failures have occured >> In my experience the far and away most common cause of Kolb crashes is stupidity. Remember, there is a huge unreported reservior of incidents that merely result in close calls and bent gear legs. I know of no reported structural failures in Kolbs that aren't also enmeshed with builder stupidity. The one I like best was a Kolb builder who apparently forgot that big-ass bolt that goes through the wing spar and holds the steel fittings for the lift strut. All that held the lift strut to the wing was the three pop rivets. He is reported to have flown for several minutes . . . . Remember that the average kolb product probably flies less than 40 hours per year. So its not likely that the fleet as whole is going to have alot of metal fatigure problems. From my perspective the big long term problem is dissimilar metal corrision on aircraft which were not primed. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: UL DAD <ULDAD(at)aol.com>
Date: May 06, 1998
Subject: Fuel tank grommets
Hello All: Well, changing the grommet wasn't the monster that I thought it would be. Fastened a pair of vice grips on the fitting, closed my eyes and pulled hard. POP! When I built the plane, I only covered the upper half of the back bulk head. Made a velcro attached cover for the bottom half, so I had no problem getting to the thing. it's just that fooling w/the "unremovable" gas tank worries me. As for the thread on safety rings: since I don't trailer my Kolb, I bushing-up everything and bolted it all together. Makes your airframe tighter and seemed to make a difference to me. Bill Griffin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1998
From: "Richard neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us>
Subject: Re: Name that plane -Reply
Try this - You name it after your wife. Then when you want to use family funds for the airplane you say nothings too good for ...... My $.02 worth Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII - still land bound. >The time for christening will be here and I can't help but wonder what some >of you guys call your planes. I've always liked "By George" (GeoR38), and >I'm pretty sure many others have names and tales of how the name came about. >Right now my top candidate name is "Cumulus Bimbo", but may get some other >ideas from the list. > >Ron Carroll >Original Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: May 06, 1998
Subject: Fuel pumps
Hi all, My proposed fuel tank change would involve adding an electric pump (4.5 psi max pressure) to the system. The easiest way to add it would be inline with the pulse pump, but I'm pretty sure that's not really recommended. If memory serves, a regulator is supposed to be used if you do that because of the possibility of overpressurizing the carb inlet. I'm just curious- has anyone tried doing this without a regulator? Did it cause any problems? I don't really see how any serious overpressure can occur, and it would be nice to reduce the number of potential leaky fittings. I'd probably have to run the electric pump all the time because I don't have an electric starter. After all, what good would a backup pump be if you can't restart in air. Unfortunately, even as I plan this new fuel tank and in-flight IVO prop, I realize that I'm not doing my lack of performance any good. Between the extra 3.5 gallons of fuel, pump, battery, and IVO motor, I guess this will add about 30 lbs. An electric starter would be nice too. Maybe I'd better find a bigger engine first. Weighing the options (Ha!) Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Date: May 06, 1998
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
In a message dated 5/6/98 2:17:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com writes: << The easiest way to add it would be inline with the pulse pump, but I'm pretty sure that's not really recommended. If memory serves, a regulator is supposed to be used if you do that because of the possibility of overpressurizing the carb inlet. >> This is question I put some work into. The pressure regulator recomendation comes from the folks at CPS. When I was setting up my fuel system I had a series of talks with them that left me rather unimpressed. The principal problem is this there are about 6 different kinds of in line facet pumps with differing through puts and pressures. And if you don't know the part number you can't tell them apart. The guys I spoke with at CPS were completely uninformed about this. The other key thing you need to know is the maximum pressure that the needle valve in the carb is supposed to be able to handle. That number is, as I recall, 7 psi. If you buy the pump which CPS wants to sell you which, if my recall is correct, puts out 4.5 psi you probably don't have much a margin of safety and should have a pressure regulator to prevent the pump from overpowering the needle valve. I dug a little deeper and found that the smallest pump facet makes puts out about 1.5 psi. So I bought the smallest facet pump and put it in line. The big question is will the engine driven pump by itself be able to draw fuel through facet pump and up to the carb. My plan is to use the facet pump on take off and landing, just like a GA plane. I can blow air through the facet pump so I figure the fuel will go through as well. I dunno. I'm going to run my engine for the first time soon and will report. I'd welcome comments from the group. I suppose the alternative would be to install a T upstream and downstream from the pump and send a hose around it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
>Hi all, > >My proposed fuel tank change would involve adding an electric pump >Weighing the options (Ha!) >Rusty Rusty and all: My Firestar w/pt ign 447 had 18 gal alum tank, pulse pum on engine and Facet elec pump for boost and back up. I had no battery, but the elec pump kept me out of trouble. Before I ran this setup I lost a fuel pump at 100 feet at the end of a 3000 ft toilet paper cutting spree at the Flight Farm, in Monterey, NY, in 1989. Had I had the elec pump, I would not have lost the eng. The Mark III has the same facet mounted pump under the fuel tank and has performed well with the 582 and 912. This pump has 1131 hours and still keeps on pumping. I have never used a regulator and never had a problem with fuel overpressure. I use the pump on t/o and landing, and when I am at low altitudes where I would not have time to react to a main fuel pump failure. I have enough time in the Sling Shot now, that at Lakeland this year there was no real transition period from the MK III to the SS as in the past. I flew it very hard all week primarily in very turbulent wind conditions. Very seldom got below 6000 rpm and spent most of the time around the pattern, which seems like 20 miles, at 6200 to 6600 rpm. This was a new 582, had 1,5 hrs on it when I started flying. EGTs were a little high, up near 1200 and 1250, but each day saw them come down a little, until the end of the week they were running about 1100 to 1150. New cables stretched some during the week and the carbs got out of sync, but Bill Martin graciously sync'd them back up for me and the EGTs which had gotten 100 deg apart, then came back together pretty close, within 25 to 50 deg of each other. I missed flying the SS with 912 at Oshkosh last year, but Dennis said that it didn't perform that much better than the 582. The 582 seems to be a real good match for the SS and I wouldn't recommend flying it with anything less if you want to have a lot of fun with a really fine fun loving airplane that still maintains Homer Kolb's nice flt characteristics. Should be a good flyin at Jones Light airstrip, Smiths Station, Al; the end of the month. If you are in the Southeast or anywhere else for that matter, come on out. See you there. john ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rings
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 06, 1998
Richard, Yes we do live in "evil days" and this is why at a fly-in event where my plane is surrounded by people, I see that all the rings are in place before I fly. This reminds of a time when a buddy of mine had kids yanking on the lift struts thinking it was a jungle gym. He was furious when he saw that! Another common one is for kids to blow into the pitot tube to see if their buddy sees it register in the cockpit. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >One other more cynical consideration: a stainless steel ring >wrapped with about three turns of electrical tape is less likely to be "adjusted" >by stupid or malicious passers-by, and the condition is evident at a >glance, while the safety pin clip is easier to open, and to be open, but still >in the clevis pin. We DO live in evil days... > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: original firestar
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 06, 1998
Johann, There is one documented case where the safety clip came out in flight. I believe it was on the flap and the landing was uneventful. One more problem is that it can open up (the one on the tail-bracing) if it snags in grass or other debris while taxiing. The rings are easier for me to put on and I think they are safer because it's like a key-ring, it would have to be physically moved around the ring circumference to come off. The safety clip is under constant spring tension to keep it in place. Just one more thing to go wrong. Ultralights are safe if you know how to fly them and take care of them. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >Hi Ralph >I am new to the Kolb aircraft and flying it, so I am curious to know >why you do not recommend the safety clips from Kolb? >Have there been any accidents or does the safety pin damage anything? >Please inform me of your experiance, because we up here in Iceland are >still in the pioneer stage and would appreciate any information to >prevent accidents or injury in our sport. It is difficult enough as >is, to convince the authority that ultralights are the safest way of >flying. > >Best regards from Iceland >Jhann G. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1998
From: T Swartz <Tswartz(at)mail.ptd.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
Russell Duffy wrote: > > Hi all, > > My proposed fuel tank change would involve adding an electric pump > (4.5 psi max pressure) to the system. The easiest way to add it Rusty I installed an electric fuel pump below the gas tanks on my MK III w/912. It was the low pressure one, as I recall, 2.5 was max psi. When you figure the amount of pressure required to push the fuel up to the engine and the output of the engine driven pump, I was still below the max pressure rating of the carbs. I have the EIS system which I really like with a fuel pressure sensor installed after the engine fuel pump. What is interesting is I see no different in fuel pressure with one or both fuel pumps. The electric pump by itself does register on the EIS but is very low. I confirmed the electric pump will get the fuel to the engine by removing the fuel line and extending it a couple feet above the engine. It does the job and certainly doesn't over power the carbs. Terry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: May 06, 1998
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
> So I bought the smallest facet pump and put it in line. The big question > is will the engine driven pump by itself be able to draw fuel through facet > pump and up to the carb. Yep, that seems to be a valid concern. I'm already worried since I'll be running a longer fuel line to the new tank in the back seat area, so the resistance of the flow through the electric pump (not running) would be even more to worry about. My plan is to put a 13.5 gallon tank in the back seat and ditch the jugs, but I've also thought of keeping one of them. I could leave the current fuel system as is, and use the electric pump to transfer fuel to the jug as needed. There are some good and bad points with this plan as well though. BTW- I can almost hear Dennis groaning now when he hears me whining about the fuel setup again :-) Rusty (slowest SlingShot in the world) Duffy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com>
Date: May 06, 1998
Subject: Minimum power for SS
> I missed flying the SS with 912 at Oshkosh last year, but Dennis said that > it didn't perform that much better than the 582. The 582 seems to be a > real good match for the SS and I wouldn't recommend flying it with anything > less if you want to have a lot of fun with a really fine fun loving > airplane that still maintains Homer Kolb's nice flt characteristics. I've had this same conversation with Dennis. For the record, he tried to talk me out of the 503, but I thought I knew better (when will I learn). You can't say the SS doesn't fly OK with the 503, but it just doesn't have the right personality. Remember when you could by Mustangs with 4 cyl engines.... same thing. Looking back on it, I can't believe I got the 503, because I've always been a "more power" kinda guy. > Should be a good flyin at Jones Light airstrip, Smiths Station, Al; the end > of the month. If you are in the Southeast or anywhere else for that > matter, come on out. Still trying to work it out. Rusty (last night in Cleveland-yeah) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 7 May 1998 00:26:54 UT (Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA13357;
Date: May 06, 1998
Subject: Re[2]: Engine instruments...
I'll have to agree with this. My partner and I are more than pleased easier to read and also has larger display size. It has worked great and earned it's keep while doing the engine break in. That red light would quickly tell you if the temps were exceeding the thresholds you preset. Works great. Does Grand Rapids Technologies have a email address by chance. We got the OAT probe and would like to see if he could modify it to put the temp on the base screen since we don't have any AUX options. Jerry (Happy EIS Camper) Bidle ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Engine instruments... Date: 5/5/98 8:53 PM Dear Kolb friends, Greg (the guy that manufactures the EIS) has treated me so well I fell obligated to write this comment. I have an EIS in my Firestar and I absolutely love it. Not only that, I had initial problems with my instrument readings, and Greg sent me a new one just because it would be easier to diagnose the problem (it was later found taht the problem was the voltage rectifier/regulator and not the instrument). After fixing the problem, the instrument has worked great so far. My instrument includes all engine monitoring stuff, standard with the EIS, plus the altimeter, rate of climb reading and fuel level (I have the rear bulkhead covered with fabric). This is really a nice way to go in the tiny Firestar panel if you want all this instrumentation. I'm sure that if the instrument needs to be repaired, he'll charge you the minimum required. I noticed he takes great pride in his instrument so he won't rip you off. I also bought my airspeed indicator, fuel level probe and BRS from him. No, I don't own stock in his company (chuck) but I'm truly pleased with having him supply me this items. If you buy his instrument, I recommend you call him. Chris Martin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
>Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 17:10:17 -0500 >To: rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com >From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> >Subject: Re: Fuel pumps >Bcc: Kolb Builders List >In-Reply-To: <199805062113.RAA03247(at)servecom.picker.com> > >>Hi all, >> >>My proposed fuel tank change would involve adding an electric pump >>Weighing the options (Ha!) >>Rusty > > >Rusty and all: > >My Firestar w/pt ign 447 had 18 gal alum tank, pulse pum on engine and Facet elec pump for boost and back up. I had no battery, but the elec pump kept me out of trouble. Before I ran this setup I lost a fuel pump at 100 feet at the end of a 3000 ft toilet paper cutting spree at the Flight Farm, in Monterey, NY, in 1989. Had I had the elec pump, I would not have lost the eng. > >The Mark III has the same facet mounted pump under the fuel tank and has performed well with the 582 and 912. This pump has 1131 hours and still keeps on pumping. I have never used a regulator and never had a problem with fuel overpressure. > >I use the pump on t/o and landing, and when I am at low altitudes where I would not have time to react to a main fuel pump failure. > >I have enough time in the Sling Shot now, that at Lakeland this year there was no real transition period from the MK III to the SS as in the past. I flew it very hard all week primarily in very turbulent wind conditions. Very seldom got below 6000 rpm and spent most of the time around the pattern, which seems like 20 miles, at 6200 to 6600 rpm. This was a new 582, had 1,5 hrs on it when I started flying. EGTs were a little high, up near 1200 and 1250, but each day saw them come down a little, until the end of the week they were running about 1100 to 1150. New cables stretched some during the week and the carbs got out of sync, but Bill Martin graciously sync'd them back up for me and the EGTs which had gotten 100 deg apart, then came back together pretty close, within 25 to 50 deg of each other. > >I missed flying the SS with 912 at Oshkosh last year, but Dennis said that it didn't perform that much better than the 582. The 582 seems to be a real good match for the SS and I wouldn't recommend flying it with anything less if you want to have a lot of fun with a really fine fun loving airplane that still maintains Homer Kolb's nice flt characteristics. > >Should be a good flyin at Jones Light airstrip, Smiths Station, Al; the end of the month. If you are in the Southeast or anywhere else for that matter, come on out. > >See you there. > >john ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
>In a message dated 5/6/98 2:17:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, >rduffy(at)servecom.picker.com writes: > ><< The easiest way to add it would > be inline with the pulse pump, but I'm pretty sure that's not really > recommended. If memory serves, a regulator is supposed to be used > if you do that because of the possibility of overpressurizing the carb inlet. > >> > > for the first time soon and will report. I'd welcome comments from the group. >I suppose the alternative would be to install a T upstream and downstream from >the pump and send a hose around it. Hey Gang: Unless your system is any different than mine (see msg I sent to Rusty Duffy and the List a few minutes ago), it'll work. Been flying with facet and eng driven pump on Firestar/447 and MK III/912. Never had a problem. Any questions? give me a shout. john ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1998
From: skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
>><< The easiest way to add it would >> be inline with the pulse pump, but I'm pretty sure that's not really >> recommended. If memory serves, a regulator is supposed to be used >> if you do that because of the possibility of overpressurizing the carb >inlet. Gents, What is wrong with adding a passive pressure regulator in series with the fuel pump?? It'll prevent overpressure and smooth out the fuel pump pressure pulses (not a problem as far as I know). I first used a pressure regulator on a McCollough O-100 used on a Bensen gyrocopter in 1965. Worked well. I use a pressure regulator on my 1970 Porsche 911-T to this day. ("T" doesn't signify turbocharged) The 2 tripple barrel carbs like it. :) FWIW, the Mikuni fuel pump runs the Cuyuna just fine. :) Skip 1984 UltraStar ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
> I'd welcome comments from the group. >I suppose the alternative would be to install a T upstream and downstream from>the pump and send a hose around it. I have my Facet pump and the Mikuni pulse pump side by side on adjacent brackets with a t-fitting above and below, then feeding into a regulator. I run the Facet continuously. The first time I ever set up this type of plumbing system, it seemed complicated. Now I wouldn't do it any other way. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
From: John Hanson <pilotone(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Lost Mail
Larry Bourne wrote: > > Hello Group: Well, I lost my service with MCI on 4/28. After a LOT of > thrashing and roaring around, and many hours on hold, I finally got hooked > back up a few minutes ago. This is the last - and final - issue in a long > string of frustrations and angry-vations with MCI. Tonight I'll hook up > with Earthlink and Hotmail. Mean-while, when I checked for new mail after > all this time, there were just 15 messages. 15.....huh !! Then I realized > they were all from 4/28/98. Last one was John Jung at 9:02 AM about Dual > CDI Rotax. A call to MCI on the cell phone resulted in a 45 min. hold, > followed by a dial tone. Aaaaarrrrrgggghh !!!! Does anyone know if the > missing messages can be accessed through Majordomo, or somewhere - anywhere > ??? > I really enjoy the interplay on our group, and hate the idea of all that > gone down the tube. Help !! Big Lar > > - Larry, About a year ago I found the Kolb list archives and saved the file in my bookmarks for future reference. I just retrieved the url for you and when I tried to bring it up, I got a "not found on this server" response. The URL is (was) listed as: www.intrig.com/kolb/list/ See if you or anyone else can bring it up. It is of tremendous reference. John Hanson Downingtown, PA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
>I use the pump on t/o and landing, and when I am at low altitudes where I >would not have time to react to a main fuel pump failure. So John, I take it you have the pulse pump and Facet pump in series? Another twist on this: I've generally thought that, when taking off, landing, or flying low, those are the last times I want to change anything on the engine, including fuel supply rate or pressure. Me thinks that if it has been running fine for 30 minutes, don't change anything for the next critical 1 minute. So, I've let this logic (or bad logic?) keep me with only the single pulse pump. I've also heard that the pulse pumps are incredibly simple in how they function. Any comments from you all on known rate of failure? John, you had one quit on you. Did you determine the cause of pump failure? How old was it? Is it reasonable to assume that if the pulse pump is rebuilt every couple years that it is extremely reliable? This discussion has renewed my thoughts about adding a Facet pump and therefore also a small battery, but i need more convincing -- and am open to it -- that they are worthwile. -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Messages, Fuel Tanks
Date: May 06, 1998
Thanks, John Hanson for the try on my lost messages. I tried the address you sent me, and came up with the same result. Anyone else ??? Hi Rick: What's happening with your plane ?? I've been looking forward to seeing that happy message by now. BTW - I'm calling mine "Vamoose". No wife, so what's a guy gonna do ?? My .05 on fuel - I got the factory 16 gal. Aluminum tank when I ordered my Mk III, and it is beautiful. Very nicely done, however I've seen many problems in the past with solid mounted Al tanks cracking under vibration. It's possible these won't do that, but didn't want to take a chance. Bought a 12" square of 1/8" gum rubber, and a length of fairly heavy wall surgical tubing. Wrapped pieces of sheet around tank mounting area of frame, reamed out the mounting holes, and put tubing over the bolts, with a washer of gum at each end, backed up by a steel washer. Result - you can pull or push on the tank, and it will move about 1/4". More than that, it backs up against the bolts + washers. May have made extra work for myself, but I absolutely cannot see that thing cracking. Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 1998
Subject: Re: Rings
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: >Yes we do live in "evil days" and this is why at a fly-in event where >my plane is surrounded by people, I see that all the rings are in >place before I fly. This reminds of a time when a buddy of mine had >kids yanking on the lift struts thinking it was a jungle gym. He was >furious when he saw that! Another common one is for kids to blow into >the pitot tube to see if their buddy sees it register in the cockpit. > >Ralph Burlingame >Original FireStar A few of us went to a local airshow (not a fly-in) several years ago. The 'Airboss' wanted the UL's to fly a couple laps around the pattern during the show so we had to attend the 'pilot briefing' at 9:00AM sharp. It was kinda neat being in the same briefing with Patty Wagstaff, Jim Yonkin and others. Usually, if UL's get invited at all it is for 'static display' only. Anyway, we exited the briefing room and strolled back to our planes. When I got within 100 yards of the Flyer, I could see two hefty little boys one about 4 and the other maybe 6 sitting, one on each wheel pant. Mom and Dad were standing in front of the plane, taking pictures. Apparently they had ducked under the bright red tape around the parking area and ignored the signs on each plane saying, 'Look but Please Don't Touch.' I'm a pretty quiet guy by most accounts but I covered that 100 yards in about 2 seconds shouting at Mommy and Daddy to "Get those boys the hell off my airplane!!" Mom, Dad, the 2 boys, and me were all very surprised at my outburst and I tried to diffuse the situation by explaining that a wheel pant was just too light a structure for even a small boy to use for a seat. Well, that seemed good enough for Dad but Mom just had to turn around and reply with, "Well I sure wouldn't fly in that g__damn thing if it's THAT flimsy!..." A better man would have just let it pass but I snapped back with something like, "Nobody asked you to lady, but I flew it here and I gotta fly it home so just stay the f__k away from it!" I turned toward Dad at that point expecting him to take a swing but he just turned, lifted the tape for his sweetie and they walked away (I was pretty glad too, he probably had 80 lbs on me - and she had at least 40). It still bothers me, I expect that those boys were turned away from aviation entirely on my account. I'm sure it wasn't their idea to pose on my wheelpants for the photo-op any more than it's their fault they have idiots for parents. The truth is that our type of aircraft are not big and threatening like 'real' airplanes and people just aren't intimidated by them. I don't think 'evil' is nearly as scary as just common 'stupidity.' -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Davis" <ldavis(at)netusa1.net>
Date: May 07, 1998
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
> > This discussion has renewed my thoughts about adding a Facet pump and > therefore also a small battery, but i need more convincing -- and am > open to it -- that they are worthwile. > > -Ben Ransom A little input. I added a Facet electric pump in parallel to the pulse pump on my Rotax 503, dual carb, engine. I picked up the fuel feed with a "Y" after the fuel filter and "Y'ed" after the pulse pump output to both carbs. Many hoses and clamps. "Basket of snakes" is what I call it. Works great! The electric pump picked up the fuel from the tank and filled the lines and carbs in about 3- 5 seconds. The Bing 54's handle the pressure without any problems. No pressure regulator is needed as the electric pump pressure is only 2 1/2- 4 1/2 lbs. This is the pump from Aircraft Spruce #40105 for $28.25. Good for takeoffs and landings although you can leave it on all the time. A little noisy when dry but quietes when pumping fuel. Hope this helps, -- Larry Davis (Challenger 1 "Songbird") Marion, Indiana ldavis(at)netusa1.net http://www.netusa1.net/~ldavis ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
From: "W.B.Whitehead,Jr." <behead(at)linknet.net>
Subject: ROTAX RAVE VALVES
HI, DOES ANYBODY KNOW HOW TO SET THE RAVE VALES ON A 618.THE ADJUSTMENT IN QUESTION IS THE RED ADJUSTERS ON THE RAVE VALVE COVERS.THANKS BENNY WHITEHEAD E-MAIL:behead(at)linknet.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Fuel pumps again, questions to John on failure
> Before I ran this setup I lost a fuel pump at 100 >feet at the end of a 3000 ft toilet paper cutting spree at the Flight Farm, >in Monterey, NY, in 1989. Had I had the elec pump, I would not have lost >the eng. Was this the older style single outlet Mikuni pump, or the current dual-outlet type? Was it equiped with the pulse-fitting bleeder hole, as they are now? Was it mounted with the pulse-port downward, as recommended? Thanks for the info, it may reduce my to-do list. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
<199805062113.RAA03247(at)servecom.picker.com> >>I use the pump on t/o and landing, and when I am at low altitudes where I >>would not have time to react to a main fuel pump failure. > >So John, I take it you have the pulse pump and Facet pump in series? > >>This discussion has renewed my thoughts about adding a Facet pump and >therefore also a small battery, but i need more convincing -- and am >open to it -- that they are worthwile. > >-Ben Ransom Ben: The pumps are in series. Pump failure due to "no name" diaphram purchased from LEAF many years ago. Be sure when you overhaul pump that you are getting mikuni parts. Pumps are extremely reliable. Biggest problem is not pump, but tubing which carries crankcase pulses to pump. Overtightening metal hose clamps and "old age" (deterioration) of the tube. I guess fuel pump redundancy is similar to parachutes: Don't need it until I need it, and I may never need it. The Facet pump will operate right off the voltage reg/rec. Don't really need to haul around a battery dedicated for the pump. I bought the last pump for my Onan generator at Western Auto on the Puralator rack. They package it under the Puralator name but if you look closely you will see Facet stamped on the pump. The package also indicates operating pressure, about 3.5 psi. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel pumps
>Richard, > >Maybe I missed something here. Are the fuel pumps (pulse and electric) >"valved" such that fuel cannot backflow through them? Otherwise it >appears a failure of either pump would allow the fuel to loop back >throught the failed pump and you wouldn't acheive any pressure. > >Gregg Waligroski >FS2 > > Correct. Both pumps have check valves and are one way. I suppose a major internal collapse of the guts of either could void the check valve, but I think bad a failure is unlikely. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
From: Jeff Stripling <jstripli(at)io.com>
Subject: Re: Lost Mail
On Thu, 7 May 1998, John Hanson wrote: > > About a year ago I found the Kolb list archives and saved the file in my > bookmarks for future reference. I just retrieved the url for you and > when I tried to bring it up, I got a "not found on this server" > response. The URL is (was) listed as: www.intrig.com/kolb/list/ > See if you or anyone else can bring it up. It is of tremendous > reference. Well, it was... Arond the time of the Christmas holidays last year, the archives were accidentally deleted. And I never restored them... The archives exist, unfortuantly not in a online form. The list will probably be moving in the next month or so, and the new provider will more than likely provide online access to the archives (past & present) via the web. So .... bear with me until I can move the list. Jeff R. Stripling jstripli(at)io.com (512) 252-3053 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
John Hauck wrote: Pumps are extremely reliable. Biggest problem is not pump, but tubing which carries crankcase pulses to pump. Overtightening metal hose clamps and "old age" (deterioration) of the tube. AMEN! I use a pulse line made by inserting a length of soft 1/4" aluminum fuel tubing inside a length of blue CPS urethane 1/4" fuel tubing, with flex-relieving curves at each end, and enough slack that the aluminum should not bend and work harden. I clamp the urethane to the aluminum in several places so that even if the aluminum should crack, the pressure pulses are mostly confined inside the aluminum tube, and everything is confined inside the urethane tube. The aluminum keeps the pulses "solid" , and also keeps the crankcase heat from the pulses away from the urethane. I like it, but have not seen anyone else doing anything similar. Opinions? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Fuel pulse pump, improvement to pulse line
Richard provided: AMEN! I use a pulse line made by inserting a length of soft 1/4" aluminum fuel tubing inside a length of blue CPS urethane 1/4" fuel tubing, with flex-relieving curves at each end, and enough slack that the aluminum should not bend and work harden. I clamp the urethane to the aluminum in several places so that even if the aluminum should crack, the pressure pulses are mostly confined inside the aluminum tube, and everything is confined inside the urethane tube. The aluminum keeps the pulses "solid" , and also keeps the crankcase heat from the pulses away from the urethane. Sounds like a great idea to "stiffen" the tubing. Questions; Does the alum. line go inside of the Blue Urethane? And does the Urethane still go all the way from the crankcase to the pump (no splices, right?)? Gleaned from others' input to my question last week about proper orientation of the pulse pump mounting and the bleeder hole: Keep an eye on the pulse line, if you see oil collecting in it you may have a blocked bleeder hole. Thanks for the idea! jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillU <WillU(at)aol.com>
Date: May 07, 1998
Subject: Dart II Radair ELT question
A long time ago I bought a Dart II Radair ELT that I'm thinking on installing on my FireStar. My Piper Colt partner told me it maybe obsolete as far as the FAA goes. Does anyone know if this ELT model is still legal? Thanks Will Uribe Building a Fire Star II http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html Piper Colt, Hanger Queen http://members.aol.com:/pa22108 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: please don't touch
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 07, 1998
Mick, That was an excellent story. I think a guy does have to hold his temper, though, because some of these kids (and adults) just don't understand the "whys" of light planes. My son moved a CAF Corsair elevator up and down when he was little guy. One of the CAF guys got upset and set a poor impression on him that lasted for years. That certainly is not what the CAF wanted to do, but that's how it turned out. What really "gets" me is that at some of these fly-in events they have the aircraft roped off with the usual "please don't touch" signs and the ultralights out where people can walk around them. If I am with my FireStar at such an event, I will allow the kids to get in and out of the cockpit, under my supervision, and let people move the control stick. They get a kick out of that and I see no harm in it. I just have to watch them closely so they don't get carried away. By the way, ultralights do get stolen occasionally and all they have to do is flip the kill switch to "on" and pull the starter rope. It may be more difficult for a potential thief to steal mine because I have the kill switch turned upside down so it doesn't look like a switch. This is not the reason I originally did this, that's another story. Let me know if you want to hear that one. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar >A few of us went to a local airshow (not a fly-in) several years ago. >The 'Airboss' wanted the UL's to fly a couple laps around the pattern >during the show so we had to attend the 'pilot briefing' at 9:00AM >sharp. It was kinda neat being in the same briefing with Patty >Wagstaff, Jim Yonkin and others. Usually, if UL's get invited at all >it is for 'static display' only. Anyway, we exited the briefing room >and strolled back to our planes. When I got within 100 yards of the >Flyer, I could see two hefty little boys one about 4 and the other >maybe 6 sitting, one on each wheel pant. Mom and Dad were standing in >front of the plane, taking pictures. Apparently they had ducked under >the bright red tape around the parking area and ignored the signs on >each plane saying, 'Look but Please Don't Touch.' > >I'm a pretty quiet guy by most accounts but I covered that 100 yards >in about 2 seconds shouting at Mommy and Daddy to "Get those boys the >hell off my airplane!!" Mom, Dad, the 2 boys, and me were all very >surprised at my outburst and I tried to diffuse the situation by >explaining that a wheel pant was just too light a structure for even a >small boy to use for a seat. Well, that seemed good enough for Dad but >Mom just had to turn around and reply with, "Well I sure wouldn't fly >in that g__damn thing if it's THAT flimsy!..." A better man would >have just let it pass but I snapped back with something like, "Nobody >asked you to lady, but I flew it here and I gotta fly it home so just >stay the f__k away from it!" I turned toward Dad at that point >expecting him to take a swing but he just turned, lifted the tape for >his sweetie and they walked away (I was pretty glad too, he probably >had 80 lbs on me - and she had at least 40). > >It still bothers me, I expect that those boys were turned away from >aviation entirely on my account. I'm sure it wasn't their idea to pose >on my wheelpants for the photo-op any more than it's their fault they >have idiots for parents. The truth is that our type of aircraft are >not big and threatening like 'real' airplanes and people just aren't >intimidated by them. I don't think 'evil' is nearly as scary as just >common 'stupidity.' > > >-Mick Fine >Tulsa, Oklahoma >http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair >Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) >http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)nationwide.net>
Subject: What to expect???
John, You might let the kolb list know what to expect if you bring a show plane to SNF or Osh. I met you at SNF while I was nosing (but not touching) around your plane about 3 years ago. You were very nice on that occasion and answered all my questions. I have always wanted to take my Kolb to one of the big events and would like to know what to expect. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (43.3 hrs) (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 07, 1998
John and Ben, These are very good questions about auxiliary fuel pumps. I have one more question: Which way is better to connect the auxiliary pump, in series or parallel? I think the Mikuni pumps are very reliable because there really isn't much to go wrong except the check valves. The diaphragm doesn't move much and simply vibrates back and forth with pulse pressure from the pulse line. If the diaphragm did crack, it would give warning because I flew with one and made a successful landing with power. I rebuilt my pump with a diaphragm I got from one of the aftermarket places and noticed it was not the mylar type that was in the original Mikuni pump. I put it in the pump with some reservations and took off after a good runup. The engine ran rough and I felt a kicking in the seat on takeoff. I kept the throttle at midrange or it would have quit. When I landed, I noticed the weep hole was leaking fuel. When I took the pump apart, I saw a cracked diaphragm. It was hard to see and I suspect that it somehow got creased and caused the leak. The pump is reliable, but for $20 bucks why not change it out every 200 hours. For the pulse line I use standard auto fuel line. It really cannot be beat and a hose clamp is necessary to keep it tight. By doing this I never have to worry about the pulse line collapsing or the clamps cutting into the line. BTW, if you see bubbles in the fuel line, the screw type auto clamps will do the trick. If you are using them on UL fuel line, then clamp them over a piece heat shrink tubing or something like that (black electrical tape?) to keep them from cutting into the line. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >>>I use the pump on t/o and landing, and when I am at low altitudes >>>where I would not have time to react to a main fuel pump failure. >>>So John, I take it you have the pulse pump and Facet pump in series? >>>This discussion has renewed my thoughts about adding a Facet pump >>>and therefore also a small battery, but i need more convincing -- and am >>>open to it -- that they are worthwile. >> >>-Ben Ransom > > >Ben: > >The pumps are in series. Pump failure due to "no name" diaphram purchased >from LEAF many years ago. Be sure when you overhaul pump that you are >getting mikuni parts. Pumps are extremely reliable. Biggest problem is not >pump, but tubing which carries crankcase pulses to pump. Overtightening >metal hose clamps and "old age" (deterioration) of the tube. I guess fuel pump >redundancy is similar to parachutes: Don't need it until I need it, and I may >never need it. The Facet pump will operate right off the voltage reg/rec. Don't >really need to haul around a battery dedicated for the pump. I bought the >last pump for my Onan generator at Western Auto on the Puralator rack. >They package it under the Puralator name but if you look closely you will >see Facet stamped on the pump. The package also indicates operating >pressure, about 3.5 psi. > >john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
From: Bob Gross <rpgross(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Need help.fuel problem
Hi and thanks for reading this message. I have a "new" 1987 firestar with a Rotax 377 with about 20 hours total time airfram and engine. Problem... Bubbles in the fuel line from the pump to the carb. I have rebuilt, changed fule lines, clamps, and finally a new pump from rotax with no help. Bubbles start at about 4000 rpm. The engine runs fine but the bubbles concern me. Everything in the fuel system is new exept for the fitting at the bottom of the tank. Nothing worked. The guy at Rotax says there should be no bubbles. BTW, the pump is mounted on the egine block as specified, and is insulated from heat via 4 nylon washers. The pump get a little warm (maybe 100F) but not hot. After a flight there is a bubble four inches long in the line between the pump and the carb while the engine is idling. I am reasonably certain that the fittings ae not leaking, as no bubbles are vivible in any other fuel lines when the engine is running. Your suggestion are needed....Thanks Bob Gross Jupiter, FL == Captain Robert P. Gross American Airlines MIA 561-744-8055 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PKrotje <PKrotje(at)aol.com>
Date: May 07, 1998
Subject: Re: Fuel pumps
<< 'm just curious- has anyone tried doing this without a regulator? Did it cause any problems? I don't really see how any serious overpressure can occur, and it would be nice to reduce the number of potential leaky fittings. I'd probably have to run the electric pump all the time because I don't have an electric starter. After all, what good would a backup pump be if you can't restart in air. >> I've used a Purolator pump plumbed in parrellel with the pulse pump on a Mark III for 120 hours - no regulator - so far no problems. The fellow I sold the plane to has another 10 hrs on it - no problems so far. Only use the elec. pump for T.O. Pete Krotje ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
Subject: Re: please don't touch
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: > >.... If I am >with my FireStar at such an event, I will allow the kids to get in and >out of the cockpit, under my supervision, and let people move the >control stick. They get a kick out of that and I see no harm in it. I >just have to watch them closely so they don't get carried away. I do the same - when I'm right there with the plane. Unfortunately, none of us volunteered to miss the briefing to watch our planes. We wrongly assumed the red tape and signs would do the job for the half hour we were absent. Still, I reacted very poorly and have regretted it ever since. I think there's a difference in the public's attitude depending on what kind of event it is. If they pay to get in, they feel (rightly) they are owed something, I'm not sure that includes family photos on my wheelpants but... Non-flyers who come to a free 'fly-in' seem to have much more respect than those who pay to see an 'airshow.' I suppose some of them feel cheated if no one has crashed by the end of the day. The original point of this thread is still important, preflight your aircraft VERY carefully at any public event. You never know what's gone on behind your back! BTW - I use the safety pins (AN416-1), not the split rings (no AN designation that I can find) and have never found one open, broken, or stolen -but I always check. -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Need help.fuel problem
> >Hi and thanks for reading this message. >I have a "new" 1987 firestar with a Rotax 377 with about 20 hours >total time airfram and engine. >Problem... >Bubbles in the fuel line from the pump to the carb. I have rebuilt, >changed fule lines, clamps, and finally a new pump from rotax with no >help. Bubbles start at about 4000 rpm. The engine runs fine but the >bubbles concern me. Everything in the fuel system is new exept for the >fitting at the bottom of the tank. Nothing worked. The guy at Rotax >says there should be no bubbles. BTW, the pump is mounted on the egine >block as specified, and is insulated from heat via 4 nylon washers. >The pump get a little warm (maybe 100F) but not hot. After a flight >there is a bubble four inches long in the line between the pump and >the carb while the engine is idling. I am reasonably certain that the >fittings ae not leaking, as no bubbles are vivible in any other fuel >lines when the engine is running. >Your suggestion are needed....Thanks > >Bob Gross Jupiter, FL > > I am not a big fan of mounting the fuel pump on the engine block, (even with isolators)and it is possible that the bubble accumulation is vibration induced. If possible, can you mount the pump off the block? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 1998
via SMTP by pop-proxy01.primenet.com, id smtpd028889; Thu May 7 22:48:27 1998
From: edk(at)primenet.com (Edward D. Knesl)
Subject: Hirth F30 Engine
Does anybody know someone who runs Hirth F30 engine on Mark III or any other aircraft? Need their experience. Thks, Edward ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cpeterhu <Cpeterhu(at)aol.com>
Date: May 08, 1998
Subject: Re: Dart II Radair ELT question
What is this about the "legality" of an elt. if it works why can't you use it? pete ________________________________________________________________________________ (Netscape Mail Server v1.1) with SMTP id AAA159
From: LLMoore(at)tapnet.net (Lauren L. Moore)
Subject: GAS/OIL MIXTURE
Date: May 08, 1998
Goodmorning Kolbers from Sussex N.J. Is a 50:1 gas/oil mixture ok for a Rotax 377 with 70+ hours on it. I just got the Firestar with a 377 and I want to keep a good eye on the fuel that goes in it. Larry original Firestar " CHEAP THRILL "
   Goodmorning Kolbers from Sussex N.J.    Is a 50:1 gas/oil mixture ok for a Rotax 377 with 70+ hours on it. I just got the Firestar with a 377 and I want to keep a good eye on the fuel that goes in it.    Larry original Firestar " CHEAP THRILL "
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)nationwide.net>
Subject: Re: Need help.fuel problem
Bob and all, I had to double up on the hose clamps at the fuel pump because the stubs out to the nipple on the pump (at least on the dual carb one for the 582) are smaller than the interior diameter of the fuel tubing except at the retaining ring. The hose clamp would allow fuel and air leaking if you jambed the hoses up against the fuel pump and away from the retaining ring allowing leaking underneath. Pulling the hose away from the pump causes them to snug up against the raised ring around the stub. I now have a hose clamp behind that ring AND on top of that ring. That prevents movement of the hose (and from it coming off) and provides a positive seal around the ring itself. Don't know if that could be your trouble, but it was mine. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Kolb MKIII - N582CC (43.3 hrs) (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Re; Need help on fuel system
An area that leaked air into my system was the primer bulb. The bulb was assembled with band clamps that were not tight enough to hold out air (they were the kind that are crimped on with a special pliers and non-adjustalbe). I replaced them with worm-drive calmps and cranked 'em down carefully so the check valves were not crushed. I don't like it this way but it is the best I can do for now. Hope this helps... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: SlingShot performance
Date: May 08, 1998
Hi all, After much debate, I've decided that swapping engines on my SS would be too expensive, and would take up too much of my potential RV building time. Also, I really want to gain some climb performance along with cruise speed, and I can't see any way of doing that without adding power, so here's what I decided to do. 1- I ordered one of the R&D pipes today. They seem convinced that there's no added danger to the engine, and they're very confident about the performance improvement over stock. I ordered the mild steel version for $350, and the mounting kit for $72.95. He hopes to have one built for me and ready to ship by next Tuesday, so maybe I'll have it before the weekend. It sounds like the only mounting problem might be the oil reservoir. Currently, it's mounted to the aft piece of angle that holds the muffler. A full report will follow. 2- I tried to order an in-flight adjustment upgrade for my IVO, but found out that it isn't so easy to do. It seems that they had problems with the torsion rod cams coming loose when using the in-flight adjustment option, so they came up with a fix. The fix involves using a new cam and modifying the end of the torsion rod to fit it. Unfortunately, this requires you to send the blades to IVO to have them re-worked unless you somehow knew to specify "electric ready" blades when you originally ordered the prop. Now let's see a show of hands- How many people were ever asked if they wanted their blades to be "electric ready"? At least they don't charge you any extra to rework the blade, but it's frustrating to have to send the prop away for a couple weeks right after I get back in town. Maybe I'll fly the plane as much as I can this week, then send the prop away when the exhaust arrives. While it's gone, I can make my fuel tank change, and add the exhaust. Russell Duffy SlingShot SS-003, N8754K RV-8A building rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Pensacola Fly-in
Date: May 08, 1998
Hi again, I just got a flyer in the mail about a fly-in at Coastal Airport in Pensacola, FL. It's being sponsored by the local UL club "Lite Blue Angels" on the weekend of May 23rd and 24th. I won't demonstrate my poor typing skills by trying to put all the info in this message. They give two contacts for info: Jim Hassell (850-453-5180) and Ian Garnham (850-456-3533). If anyone wants a copy of the flyer, send me a fax number and I'll try to get it to you. Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need help.fuel problem
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 08, 1998
Bob, Have you tried the standard automotive stainless steel fuel line screw clamps? I think the plastic rachet clamps just don't clamp tight enough on the pump. I had bubbles in the line going into the carb for years with no engine problems. After finally trying out the auto clamps, the bubbles disappeared. Use some tape or shrink tubing to clamp them over the fuel lines so they don't cut into them. I would also take the pump off of your engine. It may vapor lock on a hot day. You don't need to find a place to mount it. I have mine supported by the fuel line and the heavy-duty pulse line (auto fuel hose). It works out well with some cable ties to keep it in place. This arrangement is probably the best for the pump since it sees almost no vibration. I never got around to making a mounting bracket for it. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar w/377 writes: > >Hi and thanks for reading this message. >I have a "new" 1987 firestar with a Rotax 377 with about 20 hours >total time airfram and engine. Problem... >Bubbles in the fuel line from the pump to the carb. I have rebuilt, >changed fule lines, clamps, and finally a new pump from rotax with no >help. Bubbles start at about 4000 rpm. The engine runs fine but the >bubbles concern me. Everything in the fuel system is new exept for the >fitting at the bottom of the tank. Nothing worked. The guy at Rotax >says there should be no bubbles. BTW, the pump is mounted on the egine >block as specified, and is insulated from heat via 4 nylon washers. >The pump get a little warm (maybe 100F) but not hot. After a flight >there is a bubble four inches long in the line between the pump and >the carb while the engine is idling. I am reasonably certain that the >fittings ae not leaking, as no bubbles are vivible in any other fuel >lines when the engine is running. >Your suggestion are needed....Thanks > >Bob Gross Jupiter, FL > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: May 08, 1998
Subject: Re: Hirth F30 Engine
> Does anybody know someone who runs Hirth F30 engine on > Mark III or any other aircraft? Need their experience. > > Thks, > Edward Go to... http://www.dejanews.com/home_ps.shtml and query HIRTH F30 and you'll get plenty of folks to e-mail. Jim Baker Pres, USUA Club 104 Frontier Ultralight Aviators Oklahoma City ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: May 08, 1998
Subject: Re: Need help.fuel problem
> I would also take the pump off of your engine. It may vapor lock on a hot > day. You don't need to find a place to mount it. I have mine supported by > the fuel line and the heavy-duty pulse line (auto fuel hose). It works > out well with some cable ties to keep it in place. This arrangement is > probably the best for the pump since it sees almost no vibration. I never > got around to making a mounting bracket for it. > > Ralph Burlingame Brackets are really easy. Get a couple of the MS21919 loop type cushioned clamps big enough to fit 'round the large tube just under the engine. Two screws or bolts of appropriate length, a couple short sections of aluminum tube to use as spacers to hold the pump away from the clamps and self locking nuts. You're done and there's no drilling, bending, etc.. _______---_________ ______ |_|________ |o| Jim Baker Pres, USUA Club 104 Frontier Ultralight Aviators Oklahoma City ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need help.fuel problem
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 08, 1998
Thanks Jim, I'll put 'em in. Ralph writes: >Brackets are really easy. Get a couple of the MS21919 loop type >cushioned clamps big enough to fit 'round the large tube just under >the engine. Two screws or bolts of appropriate length, a couple >short sections of aluminum tube to use as spacers to hold the pump >away from the clamps and self locking nuts. You're done and there's >no drilling, bending, etc.. > > _______---_________ > ______ |_|________ > |o| > > >Jim Baker >Pres, USUA Club 104 >Frontier Ultralight Aviators >Oklahoma City > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Dart II Radair ELT question
>What is this about the "legality" of an elt. if it works why can't you use it? >pete >- > Be careful talking like that. before you know it, you'll be using "FAA" and "reasonable", and similar words in the same sentence. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) TRI ATCT, Kingsport, Tn. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Date: May 09, 1998
Subject: Re: Name that plane
<< The time for christening will be here and I can't help but wonder what some of you guys call your planes. I've always liked "By George" (GeoR38), and I'm pretty sure many others have names and tales of how the name came about. Right now my top candidate name is "Cumulus Bimbo", but may get some other ideas from the list. Ron Carroll >> Ron, I have additional motivation to name my wonderful Firestar "By George! " as I have a little toy glider selling company called "AeroToys by George!" and it was convenient to call MY PLANE that I BUILT in my own garage by that name. I love it and everything else that is fiesty enough to fly and feel that (as an electrical engineer givlng even a wire a name) that EVERYTHING should be important enough to have a name.......if, of course, .... the item is......important enough!!! Do you think that your Firestar is important enough?........................................GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Date: May 09, 1998
Subject: Re: original firestar
<< As for changing to rings, I know it is possible to go buy rings that "look right", but they may be a lousy alloy meant for nothin much more than your keys. How do you know they are good enf to hang your hide on? (I once bought a set from LEAF, and just didn't like the looks of them.) -Ben Ransom >> Ben, I have the same concern about rings,.....I have them on my key ring and they seem to spread and let my Keys go where ever the key wants to go.....maybe I should try a safety pin on my keyring for a suitable comparison.......but I'm sure the pocket would snag and have to be resewn.............................GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Date: May 09, 1998
Subject: Re: BRS chute
<< I realize the 'potential' hazards of a top mounted chute becoming entangled with a collapsed wing (any other considerations?), but it sounds like most Kolbers have them there. If it is mounted behind the seat it has to penetrate the Poly Fiber covering on the cage when deployed. Maybe there should be an 'exit' door in the side of the cage. Also, I would have to provide access to it for maintenance and inspections. I'm just trying to get a feel for what to do before I finish covering the cage (sorry, Ralph, I'm covering the rear too) Ron Carroll. >> Ron...I can speak to this too, as By George has the softpak chute mounted UNDER the boom right behind the point of attachment to the cage. It is aimed to fire horizontally , slightly down and back to clear the plane if the wing falls off, or sumpin, related to my overtaxed scratchpad memory in checlisting. It is well under the gas tank and should not cause an in air explosion upon use!!!.....As far as I know , I'm the only one in the world who would be audacious enough to consider such an unusual mounting technique, but .....I'm curious George................................GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Date: May 09, 1998
Subject: Re: original firestar
<< Ultralights are safe if you know how to fly them and take care of them. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar >> Who would have ever thunk it?!.......but I say this all the time .....even to the tune of implying they are SAFER than GA cause everything is out in the open ......for eyes that should be!................................................GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 1998
From: Frank Metcalfe <fmetcalf(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Need help.fuel problem
You might what to try to pressurize your fuel line system and check around line connections with some dishwashing soap and check for bubbles at the connections. The bubbles should not cause a problem becouse they are asorbed by the fuel bowl. But it could be a indaction that trouble is comming and should be addressed. If you do pressurize the fuel system only use about 5 to 10 psi. Bob Gross wrote: > Hi and thanks for reading this message. > I have a "new" 1987 firestar with a Rotax 377 with about 20 hours > total time airfram and engine. > Problem... > Bubbles in the fuel line from the pump to the carb. I have rebuilt, > changed fule lines, clamps, and finally a new pump from rotax with no > help. Bubbles start at about 4000 rpm. The engine runs fine but the > bubbles concern me. Everything in the fuel system is new exept for the > > fitting at the bottom of the tank. Nothing worked. The guy at Rotax > says there should be no bubbles. BTW, the pump is mounted on the egine > > block as specified, and is insulated from heat via 4 nylon washers. > The pump get a little warm (maybe 100F) but not hot. After a flight > there is a bubble four inches long in the line between the pump and > the carb while the engine is idling. I am reasonably certain that the > fittings ae not leaking, as no bubbles are vivible in any other fuel > lines when the engine is running. > Your suggestion are needed....Thanks > > Bob Gross Jupiter, FL > > == > Captain Robert P. Gross > American Airlines MIA > 561-744-8055 > > _________________________________________________________ > DO YOU YAHOO!? > Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com > > - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: GAS/OIL MIXTURE
>>>> Goodmorning Kolbers from Sussex N.J. Is a 50:1 gas/oil mixture ok for a Rotax 377 with 70+ hours on it. I just got the Firestar with a 377 and I want to keep a good eye on the fuel that goes in it. Larry original Firestar " CHEAP THRILL " <<<<<<<< I'd just go with the mix ratio specified by the oil manufacturer. It varies. For example, I've used Penzoil (40:1), then tried AV-2 (50:1) and settled on Duralube (40:1). -Ben Ransom http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: BRS chute
>Ron...I can speak to this too, as By George has the softpak chute mounted >UNDER the boom right behind the point of attachment to the cage. It is aimed >to fire horizontally , slightly down and back to clear the plane if the wing >falls off, or sumpin, related to my overtaxed scratchpad memory in >checlisting. It is well under the gas tank and should not cause an in air >explosion upon use!!!.....As far as I know , I'm the only one in the world who >would be audacious enough to consider such an unusual mounting technique, but >.....I'm curious George................................GeoR38 There are two of us. I mounted mine low also.It is a Niagra spring load Chute and being the only place to really put it on my Twinstar I figured it would keep it out of the way of stuff if the wing folded.The bridle cable may tangle in something and set me down a a strange angle but I will still be alive. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GAS/OIL MIXTURE
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 09, 1998
Ben, Wouldn't you want to use 50:1 recommended by Rotax? It seems the 40:1 may cause premature ring sticking. I have read the rich mix would cause the engine to run hotter, just the opposite of what you would think. I know of some cases where the pilot wanted to "baby" the engine by using a rich mix and ended up with a seizure. I think all the oils today have good enough lubricating properties that a 50:1 mix is more than adequate lubrication for the Rotax engine. I buddy and I flew 150 miles today around the Twin Cities metro area. We had a great time! I use Klotz all synthetic 50:1 and he uses Pennzoil 50:1. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar > Goodmorning Kolbers from Sussex N.J. Is a 50:1 >>gas/oil mixture ok for a Rotax 377 with 70+ hours on it. I just got >>the Firestar with a 377 and I want to keep a good eye on the fuel that >>goes in it. Larry original Firestar " CHEAP THRILL " ><<<<<<<< writes:> >I'd just go with the mix ratio specified by the oil manufacturer. It varies. For >example, I've used Penzoil (40:1), then tried AV-2 (50:1) and settled on >Duralube (40:1). > > >-Ben Ransom > >http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 1998
From: Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: Re: Need help.fuel problem
Hi all Is there a reason not to just use auto fuel line hose for the entire fuel system? It sounds like it is a sturdier type of tubing from what you all are saying, and you can use the auto type clamps on it without cutting into it. What is the reason for using the Ultralight type tubing instead? TOpher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38 <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Date: May 09, 1998
Subject: Re: GAS/OIL MIXTURE
<< Larry original Firestar " CHEAP THRILL " >> Now!!....THere's a GOOD name!!!......................................GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "deckard" <deckard(at)sheltonbbs.com>
Subject: KXP
Date: May 10, 1998
Hi, I new to the list,, just wondering could someone tell me the difference between a Firestar KXP and a regular Firestar? Jerry Deckard ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "deckard" <deckard(at)sheltonbbs.com>
Subject: KXP
Date: May 10, 1998
Hi, I new to the list,, just wondering could someone tell me the difference between a Firestar KXP and a regular Firestar? Jerry Deckard ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: Need help.fuel problem
Date: May 10, 1998
>Is there a reason not to just use auto fuel line hose for the entire >fuel system? It sounds like it is a sturdier type of tubing from what >you all are saying, and you can use the auto type clamps on it without >cutting into it. What is the reason for using the Ultralight type >tubing instead? I was planning to use all automotive type lines in my ongoing tank upgrade, but since I decided not to add the electric pump, it turns out that I can use everything just as it is. Probably, the first time I actually have to replace some line, I'll switch to automotive type and all screw clamps. The biggest advantage I see to the UL type, is that you can see the fuel. This allows you to watch for air bubbles which could give you early warning of a leaky connection. Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "CHRISTOPHER DAVIS" <cdavis2(at)capecod.net>
Subject: Re: KXP
Date: May 10, 1998
Hi Kolbers . I'm new to the list ,Iwas flying a firestar KXP on floats untill the crows around the pond Ifly from discovered they could poke holes through the fabric,and being the way crows are they prceeded tomake 39 holes from the size of a dime to the size of a dog food can in my wings. I patched them up to finish the flying season but they look like hell!! so,I amabout to recover them but I have doubts about what to do about the fabric rivets on the wings as I remember the ribs are quite smalltubing and drilling out the rivets and replacing the m with the same seems like it could be a mess has anybody done this job? I have concidered making new holes, rib stiching,? I emailed kolb for help with this question,twice but recieved no reply?Glad I found you guys!HELP! chris -----Original Message----- From: deckard <deckard(at)sheltonbbs.com> Date: Sunday, May 10, 1998 9:16 AM Subject: Kolb-List: KXP >Hi, I new to the list,, just wondering could someone tell me the difference >between a Firestar KXP and a regular Firestar? >Jerry Deckard >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need help.fuel problem
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 10, 1998
Chris, I'm sure that one could use the auto fuel line for UL's. It's actually better because it will last so much longer. The reason it's probably not used is because it weighs more per foot. That may be the only reason. It's ideal for the pulse line since it will clamp tighter and the wall rigidity will not allow it to collapse. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >Hi all > >Is there a reason not to just use auto fuel line hose for the entire >fuel system? It sounds like it is a sturdier type of tubing from what >you all are saying, and you can use the auto type clamps on it without >cutting into it. What is the reason for using the Ultralight type >tubing instead? > >TOpher > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: KXP
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 10, 1998
I have recovered my wings and used the same ribs. The fabric rivets are large head aluminum ones and can easily be drilled out without enlarging the rib holes. Since the holes are already drilled for you, use a pin to find them through the fabric once it's covered. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >Hi Kolbers . I'm new to the list ,Iwas flying a firestar KXP on floats >untill the crows around the pond Ifly from discovered they could poke >holes through the fabric,and being the way crows are they prceeded tomake 39 >holes from the size of a dime to the size of a dog food can in my wings. I >patched them up to finish the flying season but they look like hell!! so,I >amabout to recover them but I have doubts about what to do about the fabric >rivets on the wings as I remember the ribs are quite smalltubing and >drilling out the rivets and replacing the m with the same seems like it could be >a mess has anybody done this job? I have concidered making new holes, rib >stiching,? I emailed kolb for help with this question,twice but >recieved no reply?Glad I found you guys!HELP! chris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: KXP
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 10, 1998
Here's a post from a regular kind-of-guy in this group, Ben Ransom. Here he explains the differences in models and gives you a Kolb history lesson. I fly the Original FireStar that has a 5 ribs/wing. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar KX and KXP models followed the original FS. KX had slightly lower cockpit sides and long skinny wind screen. KX could still make 254lbs with Rotax 447 if built on a diet. KXP was same but with 7 ribs/wing (+2 false upper ribs per section) and most KXPs also had heavier landing gear legs. KXP with stronger wing could handle Rotax 503 but no way make 254 lbs KX/KXP were replaced with current FS I and II models. Cockpit is stretched a bit, big enf for jump seat (in II) or baggage (in I). A FSII is generally registered as Experimental category as far as I know. Wings are same as KX/KXP except I and II have slightly shorter span ailerons and require aileron counter-balances. - There are other minor differences. - Both I and II have windscreen similar to original FS. - FS I can be flown FAR103 with Rotax 277 (ouch), but better to go for a FireFly. -Ben Ransom http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom (KXP pics) writes: >Hi, I new to the list,, just wondering could someone tell me the >difference between a Firestar KXP and a regular Firestar? >Jerry Deckard ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 10 May 1998 23:02:52 UT (Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA23869
Date: May 10, 1998
Subject: Re[2]: GAS/OIL MIXTURE
I have a lawn mower with one ratio, a weed wacker with another, and boat motor with even another. (Looks like a tank farm) Would you not use the mix ratio recommended by the manufacturer. More oil in my opinion I would think would have a tendency to carbon up the rings faster. Jerry Bidle ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: GAS/OIL MIXTURE Date: 5/9/98 8:42 PM Ben, Wouldn't you want to use 50:1 recommended by Rotax? It seems the 40:1 may cause premature ring sticking. I have read the rich mix would cause the engine to run hotter, just the opposite of what you would think. I know of some cases where the pilot wanted to "baby" the engine by using a rich mix and ended up with a seizure. I think all the oils today have good enough lubricating properties that a 50:1 mix is more than adequate lubrication for the Rotax engine. I buddy and I flew 150 miles today around the Twin Cities metro area. We had a great time! I use Klotz all synthetic 50:1 and he uses Pennzoil 50:1. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar > Goodmorning Kolbers from Sussex N.J. Is a 50:1 >>gas/oil mixture ok for a Rotax 377 with 70+ hours on it. I just got >>the Firestar with a 377 and I want to keep a good eye on the fuel that >>goes in it. Larry original Firestar " CHEAP THRILL " ><<<<<<<< writes:> >I'd just go with the mix ratio specified by the oil manufacturer. It varies. For >example, I've used Penzoil (40:1), then tried AV-2 (50:1) and settled on >Duralube (40:1). > > >-Ben Ransom > >http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 1998
From: William V Rayfield <rayfiwv(at)mail.auburn.edu>
Subject: painting wings
kolb folks, Time to paint the wings! I would like to know what some of you did in order to support the wing while painting it (primarily at the tips). I prefer not to drill a hole in the tip so it could rotate and I could paint both sides in one sitting. Other option is letting one side dry and just flip after it dries. Let me know what some of you did. Thanks Also: Does anyone know if there are any of the old Ultrastar decals around? If not, maybe where I could get a good look at one to have something similar made up? I like the logo and would like to create somthing similar for our plane and our trailer. Thanks Bill Rayfield (Co-owner "new" Ultrastar with Don Rayfield) "I'd rather be lucky than good" Mech. Engr. Student Auburn University "War Eagle" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 1998
Subject: Re: oil /VLS
From: rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT)
HI FRANK HOW DID THE AULX. GAS TANK WORK OUT Could you get a number so that I could give them a call I would like to look at the tank , also do you have any pictures of your tank area, all of my tank ideas start out like gang busters and after a while they sizzle down to well maybe this is not just the way I wanted it to turn out. Do you , or anyone on the KOLB LIST know of someone who has got one of the KOLB 16 \ 17 gal. tanks . I sure need more fuel cap. Rick Libersat writes: > >FYI, I just looked at my 582 top end @430 hrs TT and removed the >cylinder >head and exhaust system to inspect for carbon buildup after 120 hrs >SMOH. I >use AV-2 exclusively (from CPS) in the injection system. I was >surprised to >find only light carbon build up on the pistons and some on the top of >the >trapezoid rings that I removed with a razorblade and vacuum. The >cylinder >head was completely clean and only needed wiping off. At this rate I >hope >to get 300 hrs again before a complete decarbonizing service is >required. >Needless to say that I will continue to use AV-2. > >Just received my BRS-VLS-900 unit and will use my own brackets to >attach it >to the frame and place it as low as possible and as far forward into >the >gapseal as it can go.The rocket attachment has been moved to the side >of >the box which is very inconvenient and I may attach it separately to >the >frame tube. The gapseal will get a hinged section in the middle with >the >hinge attached to the aluminum leading edge. This section will cover >the >VLS and rocket laucher completely but it will have a 2" bulge at the >rear >end. Has anybody seen an actual launch of a BRS? Is there a heat >exposure >to the gastanks approx 1ft below the rocket during the lanch? I will >ask >BRS about this also and maybe have to build a blastshield to direct >the >flame to the rear. > >Frank Reynen MKIII@430 hrs >http://www.webcom.com/reynen > > > Out here in the Hooterville Mountains of East Tennessee, most >all >of >us have been using Phillips Injex 2-stroke oil for a long time, no >seizures, >but the rings need cleaning every hundred hours. > The Phillips distributor has moved out of town, and I was just >leaving to go buy a case of Pennzoil when here comes this info that it >also >gunks up the rings. > Once again, it looks like experience may be the best (and only >reliable) teacher. > P.S. Can anybody tell me if the MKIII wheels and bearings are >the >same as the Firestar wheels and bearings? > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >- > > > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: M-III aux fuel tank
Date: May 11, 1998
Hey Rick, I can't help but answer your request. I have a friend with a Mark-III, and he made a VERY nice 18-gallon tank for it. It fits under the Boom-tube, just behind the seat. he has it plumbed in so that he pumps fuel from it to the main tanks with an electric pump. If you want I'll see if I can get more info and possible a couple of pictures of it for you. Ron Carroll Original Firestar Independence, OR -----Original Message----- From: RICK M LIBERSAT <rick106(at)juno.com> Date: Sunday May 10 1998 7:34 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: oil /VLS >HI FRANK > >HOW DID THE AULX. GAS TANK WORK OUT > >Could you get a number so that I could give them a call I would like to >look at the tank , >also do you have any pictures of your tank area, all of my tank ideas >start out like gang busters and after a while they sizzle down to well >maybe this is not just the way I wanted it to turn out. Do you , or >anyone on the KOLB LIST know of someone >who has got one of the KOLB 16 \ 17 gal. tanks . I sure need more >fuel cap. > >Rick Libersat > >writes: >> >>FYI, I just looked at my 582 top end @430 hrs TT and removed the >>cylinder >>head and exhaust system to inspect for carbon buildup after 120 hrs >>SMOH. I >>use AV-2 exclusively (from CPS) in the injection system. I was >>surprised to >>find only light carbon build up on the pistons and some on the top of >>the >>trapezoid rings that I removed with a razorblade and vacuum. The >>cylinder >>head was completely clean and only needed wiping off. At this rate I >>hope >>to get 300 hrs again before a complete decarbonizing service is >>required. >>Needless to say that I will continue to use AV-2. >> >>Just received my BRS-VLS-900 unit and will use my own brackets to >>attach it >>to the frame and place it as low as possible and as far forward into >>the >>gapseal as it can go.The rocket attachment has been moved to the side >>of >>the box which is very inconvenient and I may attach it separately to >>the >>frame tube. The gapseal will get a hinged section in the middle with >>the >>hinge attached to the aluminum leading edge. This section will cover >>the >>VLS and rocket laucher completely but it will have a 2" bulge at the >>rear >>end. Has anybody seen an actual launch of a BRS? Is there a heat >>exposure >>to the gastanks approx 1ft below the rocket during the lanch? I will >>ask >>BRS about this also and maybe have to build a blastshield to direct >>the >>flame to the rear. >> >>Frank Reynen MKIII@430 hrs >>http://www.webcom.com/reynen >> >> >> Out here in the Hooterville Mountains of East Tennessee, most >>all >>of >>us have been using Phillips Injex 2-stroke oil for a long time, no >>seizures, >>but the rings need cleaning every hundred hours. >> The Phillips distributor has moved out of town, and I was just >>leaving to go buy a case of Pennzoil when here comes this info that it >>also >>gunks up the rings. >> Once again, it looks like experience may be the best (and only >>reliable) teacher. >> P.S. Can anybody tell me if the MKIII wheels and bearings are >>the >>same as the Firestar wheels and bearings? >> Richard Pike >> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >>- >> >> >> >>- >> > >_____________________________________________________________________ >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com >Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] >- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 1998
Subject: Re: painting wings
From: rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT)
Bill This may not be to much help I used the wing tip strobe , tied s/s wire around it ,then on the other side of the wing the ( inboard ) where the tang is tied it with s/s wire then tied the two to the rafters up in barn the leading edge was just about waist high this made it easer on the painter. good luck , and DON'T FORGET to use a good mask RICK L. writes: >kolb folks, >Time to paint the wings! >I would like to know what some of you did in order to support the wing >while painting it (primarily at the tips). I prefer not to drill a >hole in >the tip so it could rotate and I could paint both sides in one >sitting. >Other option is letting one side dry and just flip after it dries. Let >me >know what some of you did. Thanks >Also: > Does anyone know if there are any of the old Ultrastar decals >around? If not, maybe where I could get a good look at one to have >something similar made up? I like the logo and would like to create >somthing similar for our plane and our trailer. Thanks > >Bill Rayfield (Co-owner "new" Ultrastar with Don Rayfield) >"I'd rather be lucky than good" > >Mech. Engr. Student >Auburn University >"War Eagle" > > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: M-III aux fuel tank
Date: May 11, 1998
Rick, I have some good news and some bad news. I just called my friend regarding the tank he made for his M-III. I was wrong when I said it was 18-gallons. What it actually is is an 8-gallon aux tank, and with the two main tanks he has 18-gallons total. Sorry about that! However, if you are still interested I will give you his phone number in Salem, Oregon. He is a very nice guy and feels good about your interest. His phone # is (503)581-5062, and his name is Ron Gilbertson. He said he would bring his pictures over for me to scan if you still want them. Ron Carroll Original Firestar -----Original Message----- From: RICK M LIBERSAT <rick106(at)juno.com> Date: Sunday May 10 1998 8:28 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: M-III aux fuel tank >RON > >That would be great I just got off the phone with a friend of mine up in >ILL. >I always go back to him because he always has good ideas.He had to get >rid of his > M III on the count of his medical . RON please send me what you can >,even a phone # if your buddy DON'T mind talking to an old texas boy >THANKS again for the help. >RICK LIBERSAT > > writes: >>Hey Rick, I can't help but answer your request. I have a friend with >>a >>Mark-III, and he made a VERY nice 18-gallon tank for it. It fits >>under the >>Boom-tube, just behind the seat. he has it plumbed in so that he >>pumps fuel >>from it to the main tanks with an electric pump. If you want I'll see >>if I >>can get more info and possible a couple of pictures of it for you. >> >>Ron Carroll >>Original Firestar >>Independence, OR >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: RICK M LIBERSAT <rick106(at)juno.com> >>To: Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com >> >>Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com >>Date: Sunday May 10 1998 7:34 PM >>Subject: Re: oil /VLS >> >> >>>HI FRANK >>> >>>HOW DID THE AULX. GAS TANK WORK OUT >>> >>>Could you get a number so that I could give them a call I would like >>to >>>look at the tank , >>>also do you have any pictures of your tank area, all of my tank >>ideas >>>start out like gang busters and after a while they sizzle down to >>well >>>maybe this is not just the way I wanted it to turn out. Do you , or >>>anyone on the KOLB LIST know of someone >>>who has got one of the KOLB 16 \ 17 gal. tanks . I sure need more >>>fuel cap. >>> >>>Rick Libersat >>> >>>writes: >>>> >>>>FYI, I just looked at my 582 top end @430 hrs TT and removed the >>>>cylinder >>>>head and exhaust system to inspect for carbon buildup after 120 hrs >>>>SMOH. I >>>>use AV-2 exclusively (from CPS) in the injection system. I was >>>>surprised to >>>>find only light carbon build up on the pistons and some on the top >>of >>>>the >>>>trapezoid rings that I removed with a razorblade and vacuum. The >>>>cylinder >>>>head was completely clean and only needed wiping off. At this rate I >>>>hope >>>>to get 300 hrs again before a complete decarbonizing service is >>>>required. >>>>Needless to say that I will continue to use AV-2. >>>> >>>>Just received my BRS-VLS-900 unit and will use my own brackets to >>>>attach it >>>>to the frame and place it as low as possible and as far forward into >>>>the >>>>gapseal as it can go.The rocket attachment has been moved to the >>side >>>>of >>>>the box which is very inconvenient and I may attach it separately to >>>>the >>>>frame tube. The gapseal will get a hinged section in the middle with >>>>the >>>>hinge attached to the aluminum leading edge. This section will cover >>>>the >>>>VLS and rocket laucher completely but it will have a 2" bulge at the >>>>rear >>>>end. Has anybody seen an actual launch of a BRS? Is there a heat >>>>exposure >>>>to the gastanks approx 1ft below the rocket during the lanch? I >>will >>>>ask >>>>BRS about this also and maybe have to build a blastshield to direct >>>>the >>>>flame to the rear. >>>> >>>>Frank Reynen MKIII@430 hrs >>>>http://www.webcom.com/reynen >>>> >>>> >>>> Out here in the Hooterville Mountains of East Tennessee, >>most >>>>all >>>>of >>>>us have been using Phillips Injex 2-stroke oil for a long time, no >>>>seizures, >>>>but the rings need cleaning every hundred hours. >>>> The Phillips distributor has moved out of town, and I was >>just >>>>leaving to go buy a case of Pennzoil when here comes this info that >>it >>>>also >>>>gunks up the rings. >>>> Once again, it looks like experience may be the best (and >>only >>>>reliable) teacher. >>>> P.S. Can anybody tell me if the MKIII wheels and bearings >>are >>>>the >>>>same as the Firestar wheels and bearings? >>>> Richard Pike >>>> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >>>>- >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>- >>>> >>> >>>_____________________________________________________________________ >>>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com >>>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] >>>- >> >>- >> > >_____________________________________________________________________ >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com >Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: KXP
Chris, Welcome to the list. I'm sure you could get away with drilling out the rivets several times. Use the same size drill as the rivet (1/8") and try to use a drill speed and pressure that prevents the rivets from spinning. As you get the heads drilled off, the rest of the rivet will practically punch thru. I would NOT drill extra holes anywhere -- e.g. for new rivets -- as this *significantly* weakens things. What kind and size floats do you have? I'm also interested in how the plane performs with them on the water and in the air. -Ben Ransom (Kolb Firestar KXP) http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom >Hi Kolbers . I'm new to the list ,Iwas flying a firestar KXP on floats >untill the crows around the pond Ifly from discovered they could poke holes >through the fabric,and being the way crows are they prceeded tomake 39 holes >from the size of a dime to the size of a dog food can in my wings. I patched >them up to finish the flying season but they look like hell!! so,I amabout >to recover them but I have doubts about what to do about the fabric rivets >on the wings as I remember the ribs are quite smalltubing and drilling out >the rivets and replacing the m with the same seems like it could be a mess >has anybody done this job? I have concidered making new holes, rib >stiching,? I emailed kolb for help with this question,twice but recieved no >reply?Glad I found you guys!HELP! chris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Wing handling, for painting and beyond...
Bill: I installed a fitting in each wing tip trailing edge tube. It allowed an attachment point for hanging for painting as you asked. The fitting also makes it possible to lock the ailerons in position for trailering and lock the two wing tips at the trailing edges together for trailering. If you never trailer this is not a big deal to you, but it sure tightens things up. Imagine a pc of lite-walled steel tubing of proper size to fit into the trailing edge tube. A fender washer was ground down to fit inside one end, and gas welded in place. The other end was closed up with another fender washer, left full diameter, so once weled on it forms a flange. Drilled thru the fender washers to enlarge the IDs to accept a leftover pc of 5/16 4130 from the kit (this size tube has a 1/4" inside diameter). This tube was welded in and the whole thing primed and rivetted in place in the wing tip. To use it I put a long pip pin into it, thru an extra pc of flat iron that is one foot long, to hold the wings together. When painting I did similar with a pc of scrap flat, wired to ceiling. It probably sounds like a lot of work and it did take about two hours but it has since paid back many times. I covered over all but the 1/4" hole so you'd have trouble noticing it unless you knew what you were looking for. The two fittings together weigh 8 oz. An idea I learned from Cliff Stripling, was to add a barn-door handle on the INSIDE of the wing-tip bow, about at the center, and fabric cover around and thru it. It provides a VERY convenient hand-hold for folding and handling of the wings later. In other words, the barn-door handle riveted in place inside the bow-tube allows you somewhere to attach the fabric to so that you can get your hand around the actual bow tube for a handle. (Did I explain that OK Cliff?) Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLSOUDER <DLSOUDER(at)aol.com>
Date: May 11, 1998
Subject: Back from SNF
Dear Kolbers, Survived another Sun-N-Fun: Finally back from SNF. If you are looking to an email response from me on some question - please re-send it. I was delayed in my return due to the breakdown of my van engine on the way to SNF. Had to have the engine rebuilt in FL. Thanks to one of our good Kolb builders from Orlando, I got a good tip on an excellent place to have the work done. Emergency Power: There is some truth to the circulating story about using the Laser (on the trailer being pulled behind my van) to provide the power to get off the I4 where the van engine had failed. One version I heard circulating was that the vehicle was going so fast that it started the airplane engine by accident! At 5000 rpm the 582 in the Laser will push a full size van with trailer, with prop in the windshadow of rear of van at approx. 30 mph on the level. It was somewhat awesome to see the number of heads turned at the gas station when pulling in with the roaring of the 582 & prop. Kitplanes Completions: Just a note from KITPLANES magazine. They are looking for aircraft to list in their September completion issue. Last year they had 100 or more airplanes listed. They are looking for brief letters and color photos from builders. They say that this has become one of their more favorite columns. In addition to seeing your pride and joy published in Kitplanes, you have a chance at winning a Bendix-King KLX-1000 GPScom (about $1,400 worth), the lucky winner will be selected from those who submitted a completion report during the year. Also Kolb will toss in a pair of hats, a pair of T-shirts and our newest video for each published completion. Also, be prepared for some telephone calls of those curious about your craft, and there may be some offers to purchase as well! (You can request them to not list your phone or address.) Time is short. Your completion report must be in by June 10, 1998. Completions may be typed or hand written, but not emailed - Kitplanes not set up to handle that yet. Air to air photos are not required or encouraged. Send to: KITPLANE Completions 8745 Aero Drive, Ste. 105 San Diego, CA 92123 If you have any more questions on this let me know. Sincerely, Dennis Souder Pres Kolb Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: spring chute
At 1 >I'm wid ya 100 % Woody......does yours just pop straight down under spring >power?...I have the same confidence about the alive part >too!!..................GeoR38 > > Mine pops out back and to the left, horizontal to the boom tube.The spring is just in the drouge chute and when that pops it pulls the rest of the chute out with it. Not as fast as a BRS but it is a simple failproof mechanical system. As for the name the plane game how about High Guy or High Inspiration Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Wing handling, for painting and beyond...
Date: May 12, 1998
Murphy's Law strikes again! I read all these neat ideas *after* I just finished covering one wing. Drat! I suppose I could still do the other wing and *try* attaching it to something when folded, right? Or I could put a handle in one wing, and make it easy to handle one side when folding. Ron Carroll Original Firestar -----Original Message----- From: Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM> Date: Monday May 11 1998 4:57 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Wing handling, for painting and beyond... > Bill: > I installed a fitting in each wing tip trailing edge tube. It allowed an >attachment point for hanging for painting as you asked. The fitting also >makes it possible to lock the ailerons in position for trailering and lock >the two wing tips at the trailing edges together for trailering. If you >never trailer this is not a big deal to you, but it sure tightens things up. > > Imagine a pc of lite-walled steel tubing of proper size to fit into the >trailing edge tube. A fender washer was ground down to fit inside one end, >and gas welded in place. The other end was closed up with another fender >washer, left full diameter, so once weled on it forms a flange. Drilled >thru the fender washers to enlarge the IDs to accept a leftover pc of 5/16 >4130 from the kit (this size tube has a 1/4" inside diameter). This tube was >welded in and the whole thing primed and rivetted in place in the wing tip. >To use it I put a long pip pin into it, thru an extra pc of flat iron that >is one foot long, to hold the wings together. When painting I did similar >with a pc of scrap flat, wired to ceiling. > > It probably sounds like a lot of work and it did take about two hours but >it has since paid back many times. I covered over all but the 1/4" hole so >you'd have trouble noticing it unless you knew what you were looking for. >The two fittings together weigh 8 oz. > > An idea I learned from Cliff Stripling, was to add a barn-door handle on the >INSIDE of the wing-tip bow, about at the center, and fabric cover around and >thru it. It provides a VERY convenient hand-hold for folding and handling >of the wings later. In other words, the barn-door handle riveted in place >inside the bow-tube allows you somewhere to attach the fabric to so that you >can get your hand around the actual bow tube for a handle. (Did I explain >that OK Cliff?) > Jim > >- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayland, William C." <wcw2573(at)eagle.sbeach.navy.mil>
Subject: FireStar Wheel Bearings
Date: May 11, 1998
My FireFly has the standard FireStar wheels. About 4 weeks back I put in a spare set of the old design General 1 3/8 x 5/8 flanged bearings. They lasted only about 10 takeoffs and landing before needing replacement. I was a bit shocked by this. About a week ago I called Kolb to order new bearings. Was told they were out of stock but P/N is 499502H and to try local bearing distributors. Kolb rep did not know bearing mfg. off hand but said that this was a bearing with a snap ring in lieu of flange and better than the earlier flanged type. I contacted Applied Industrial Technologies of Long Beach, CA (562) 437-2201 for price and availability. They said that 499502H was an obsolete New Departure bearing (some may still be available) but three substitutes were available. Fafnir 202PPG27 at $11.97; BCA 202FFLB at $12.72; and General 90502-88 at $9.53. I think they told me that all were U.S. made and equally good. But when I got the General bearings they were marked "CHINA" on the seals. Bearings installed yesterday just fine with a tad bit of polishing to the axles and the use of Locktite bearing sealant to take out the slight looseness between the bearings and wheels. Did not get a chance yet to fly with them but will let the list know how they work out. Chris W. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: painting wings
>kolb folks, >Time to paint the wings! >I would like to know what some of you did in order to support the wing >while painting it (primarily at the tips). I prefer not to drill a hole in >the tip so it could rotate and I could paint both sides in one sitting. >Other option is letting one side dry and just flip after it dries. Let me >know what some of you did. Thanks I spent a lot of time trying to figure an easy way to hang my wings while I painted.I ended up using the air frame on one end(suitably masked off) and I kept the trailing edge spar open on the end. Putting a piece of 1" tube into the spar I was able to rig the wing to stand 90* to the airframe in a vertical position so I could walk around it and paint.On mine I kept the spar end open so I can continue using the removable 1" tubes as handles when I am moving my Twinstar around when it is folded. When building a mark 3 we made up handles that stay in the spar and telescope out when we need handles for moving it about with the wings folded. You will see the wisdom of this idea as you try moving your aircraft around by holding the fabric on the wing tip. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 1998
From: "RIVARD" <RIVA01B(at)MACOMB.CC.MI.US>
Subject: EQUIPMENT FORSALE
I AM DIVESTING MYSELF OF MY TWINSTAR BY THE END OF THE MONTH.ANYONE NEED ANY PARTS AT A GOOD PRICE LET ME KNOW AT RIVARD(at)MACOMB.CC.US AS OF NOW PLANE IS COMPLETE INCLUDING BRS-4, RADIO EQUIP,TRANSPONDER,HELMETS ETC. BOB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)nationwide.net>
Subject: Re: Wing handling, for painting and beyond...
Jim and all, >In other words, the barn-door handle riveted in place >inside the bow-tube allows you somewhere to attach the fabric to so that you >can get your hand around the actual bow tube for a handle. (Did I explain >that OK Cliff?) > Jim Exactly, but it is not my original idea. I copied a Kolb I saw down at SNF several years ago. Those hand holds are very handy when unfolding the wings and for lifting the entire folded tail section of the plane by the handles in the wing tips rather than by the tail spring. You have to hammer the attachment points of the handles to match the curvature of the bow tube and I used 3 rivets at each attach point. After covering I wrapped the exposed bow tube inside the handle location with nylon cord. I positioned the handles so that there is no distortion of the lower surface of the wing and only a slight sink in the upper surface near the hand hold. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel Kolb MKIII - N582CC (43.3 hrs) ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: May 11, 1998
Subject: Re: KXP
> I'm sure you could get away with drilling out the rivets several times. > Use the same size drill as the rivet (1/8") Better to use a #30 drill....and slightly wobble the bit as you drill..will keep the rivet from spinning in the hole. J. Baker ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: FireStar Wheel Bearings
>Departure bearing (some may still be available) but three substitutes were >available. Fafnir 202PPG27 at $11.97; BCA 202FFLB at $12.72; and General >90502-88 at $9.53. I think they told me that all were U.S. made and equally >good. But when I got the General bearings they were marked "CHINA" on the >seals. I change bearings on machinery quite often as part of my job.Unfortunately I have little faith in bearings made in Asian countries. This is not a blind predjudice but an observed fact. Others may have had better luck with asian bearings but this has been my experience. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________ ID# 607-42492U60000L60000S0) with ESMTP id AAA20015
From: "moores" <moores(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: Still with the Mark III Questions
Date: May 11, 1998
Is the "normal" or standard Kolb seat, a hammock seat? (ie cloth stretched on a frame)? If you use the Upholstery option, is there a difference in the seat (ie aluminum like the floor)? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: FireStar Wheel Bearings
>>Departure bearing (some may still be available) but three substitutes were >>available. Fafnir 202PPG27 at $11.97; BCA 202FFLB at $12.72; and General >>90502-88 at $9.53. I think they told me that all were U.S. made and equally >>good. But when I got the General bearings they were marked "CHINA" on the >>seals. > > I change bearings on machinery quite often as part of my >job.Unfortunately I have little faith in bearings made in Asian countries. >This is not a blind predjudice but an observed fact. Others may have had >better luck with asian bearings but this has been my experience. This jives with my experience too. Many of the "great deal" hardware and tools from a place in California called Harbor Freight are junk from China. Even the metal alloy they use for things such as a bench vice turns out to be junk IMO. As for bearings, one possibility is to find out who the wheel manufacturer is and call them for bearings. I think Kolb has maybe switched to using wheels from Azusa Engineering. I had bought my wheels directly from them (which was a misdirected idea on my part -- i'll spare you the details :) ) and also went back to them for wheel bearing replacement. The important aspect is to get sealed bearings instead of pressed bearings. Sealed, sometimes referred to as "precision" bearings, make the pressed bearings seem like a really bad joke. Sealed come with or without a snap ring, and this is a non-issue for Azusa wheel installation, as the bearings simply fit into a recess in the wheel hub and can't go anywhere because of the axle flange on the inside and the castle nut on the outside. (I ended up getting bearings with provision for snap ring, installed them fine, and threw out the snap rings.) Azusa's is in Covina, CA and their phone number is (818) 967-4167. They'll want to refer you to a resailer. Besides all this, i believe the bearings are very very standard and you could order them anywhere if you supply OD, ID, and width. -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing handling, for painting and beyond...
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 11, 1998
Ron, I made a handle out of 5/16" tubing for each wing. I added this on after it was covered and painted. As with all my exposed aluminum, I polished it. Sure is nice for wing folding and loading/unloading from my trailer. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >Murphy's Law strikes again! > >I read all these neat ideas *after* I just finished covering one wing. >Drat! > >I suppose I could still do the other wing and *try* attaching it to >something when folded, right? > >Or I could put a handle in one wing, and make it easy to handle one >side >when folding. > >Ron Carroll >Original Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lrb1476 <Lrb1476(at)aol.com>
Date: May 11, 1998
Subject: Strobe color
Fellow Kolbers, I'm ready to purchase a strobe, or anti-collision light (required for expermental's in 98 FAR?). Is there a definite (written) statement, etc. as to which color shows up better in the daylight hours, red or white ? Or are strobes only white......? I have had discussions with many pilots on this issue, and it seems that everyone has there own opinion. I really dont care one way or the other on the color...... but I sure would like to hear your advise. Thanks, Rich Bragassa Mk III 85 % complete Miami, Fl. lrb1476(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Strobe color
>Fellow Kolbers, > >I'm ready to purchase a strobe, or anti-collision light (required for >expermental's in 98 FAR?). Is there a definite (written) statement, etc. as to >which color shows up better in the daylight hours, red or white ? Or are >strobes only white......? > Not aware of any legal requirement for a specific color. But based on 25 years of looking at airplanes out the tower window, day or night, I would recommend white. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) TRI ATCT, Kingsport Tn. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 1998
Subject: AC43.13-1A
From: pl4coop(at)juno.com (robert w. cooper)
Hi Gang - Some more thoughts on AC43 - There may be some among us who remember CAM 18?? - Then the FAA came along and it was revised to AC 43.13-1A - not sure of year but suspect it was in the 60's. My CAM 18 first is dated 1953. Revisions where made over the years, with the latest being 1988. I understand AC43 is now in revision. In any event - all publications have information helpful to building and providing safe airframe practices - and do I dare say aircraft? Above all safety is top priority if its for any flying machine or aircraft. Remember to keep your speed up on final! Bob Cooper - kolb wanna be - now a Pazmany PL-4A owner/pilot Newfield, NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AMAV8R <AMAV8R(at)aol.com>
Date: May 12, 1998
Subject: Re: SmithRich-MK 3 For Sale Questions
Post to BB c/o SmithRich I fumbled and lost you address Yes plane is available w/o engine etc, Please give me your e-mail address and your phone # and I'll be glad to call and fill you in on the particulars. Russ AMAV8R(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 1998
From: Monte <Monte84(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Ordered Mark3 today
Hello everyone, Just wanted to let everyone know that I went to Phoenixville today and ordered my Mark3. Want to thank Dan at Kolb for answering all my questions and let you all know that I'm sure I will have a lot more. Looking forward to recieving my kit and any info on what engines you guys have on your Mark3's. Thanks, Monte Evans Dallas, GA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 1998
From: Guy Tetreault <samten(at)cam.org>
Subject: Rivets and corrosion
Hi All, I have been looking at a few different projects lately and some are quite appealing. Being a newcomer to ULs I am trying to learn as much as I can and I have the impression that building one's own aircraft is one of the best ways to learn. Not to long ago, on the list, I read about the issue of corrosion, particularly when dissimilar metals are involved. I was under the impression that the rivets used in the assembly process were made of a hard aluminium alloy and that this problem would not be an issue. Now I'm a bit concerned that if/when steel rivets are used, what might look like a nicely preserved aircraft might have serious structural problems that could only be discovered if one decides to recover the structure. Hopefully my worries are not founded and the rivets used ARE in fact aluminium, so at least the wings and most large surfaces would not be subject to this type of corrosion and the only danger spot would be wherever steel parts are attached to aluminium parts. Still this dissimilar metal issue has started me wondering about the wisdom of restoration versus the security of building brand new. Here (Montreal area), humidity is quite high all year and winter brings the overuse of salt on the roads which I'm sure finds its way into almost anything that's close enough to any kind of major road or highway. I hope I'm overreacting here and that things aren't so bad, but any thoughts on this will be appreciated. Thanks, Guy, ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayland, William C." <wcw2573(at)eagle.sbeach.navy.mil>
Subject: Mirror Fuel Gage
Date: May 13, 1998
I fly my FireFly wearing both helmet and goggles. The goggles along with a bit of a back problem makes twisting around to check the tank's fuel level a problem. I purchased at Pep Boys one of those small rectangular convex mirrors (1.4 X 2.2 inches). I cut four slots in both the top and bottom of the mirror's plastic frame for two tie wraps. At the slots in the bottom of the of the frame the tie wraps just come out and loop back into the frame. Using the two tie wrap ends at the top of the mirror frame along with the adhesive pad that comes on the back of the frame I mounted the mirror high up on the cockpit side wall just behind my left shoulder. Now a downward glance over my shoulder lets me clearly see the bottom half of the translucent tank. Chris W. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: LASER KIT PRICES?
Date: May 13, 1998
Dennis, Laser is a great looking bird! Wanted to know more.. Didn't make Sun-n-Fun but saw Scott Bentley's pictures that he posted. Has Kolb established any kit prices, plan to do so? What are the specs. ? Haven't seen anything yet just wondering what you can tell us. Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
Dennis,

    Laser is a great looking bird! Wanted to know more..

    Didn't make Sun-n-Fun but saw Scott Bentley's pictures that he posted. Has Kolb established any kit prices, plan to do so? What are the specs. ? Haven't seen anything yet just wondering what you can tell us.

Jeremy Casey   jrcasey(at)mindspring.com<= /DIV> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)nationwide.net>
Subject: Re: Ordered Mark3 today
Monte and all, >engines you >guys have on your Mark3's. When I first saw your post I saw Dallas and thought, "Great - another project nearby". Then I saw Georga... We have 6 Kolbs of various models around this area. All but one are flying and it might be by late summer sometime. Engines... I have the Rotax 582 with B gear box and 3 bld IVO quick adjust prop. I think that power train combination is perfect and the power is more than plenty for the MKIII. I seldom run my engine more than in the low to mid 5K rpm range except on take off and climb. You are going to have a great time building your Kolb. The number of hours required are fairly stated at 500, although you could do it in maybe 300 the second time around or you could spend 800 if you are a real detail freak. I did mine in an estimated (I didn't log every hour - not fun for me - and I didn't log or count dream time) 450-500 hours and it took about a year. I did my share of mods too. Recommendations: 1. Powder coat whether factory or by someone local. 2. Get built-in larger fuel tank. Pricy but worth it. 10 gallons equals about 120+- miles with 1.5 - 2 gallons reserve... not enough IMO. 3. Your choice on brakes. I have cheap ones - just adequate - hydraulic are much better but pricy. Lots of talk about bearings lately. Mine are holding up OK so far. 4. Get full enclosure. 5. Make your own interior. Pepboys auto carpet (color co-ordinate) and a 1X4 arm board attached with U clamps. Get an outdoor cushion company to make some comfortable airy custom seat cushions at around $20 each. 6. Build shock mounted instrument panel. 7. Build half doors for summer. Easy to do... and cool. 8. Buy prebuilt wing ribs. 9. You don't need electric start on a 582. 10.You don't need a battery (unless electric start or you just want one) as the engine can power instruments, strobe, radios, etc. 11.MKIII's tend to be tail heavy so watch added weight aft of the CG. 12.Ballistic chute - your call - I have a soft pack in the wing gap seal. 13.Extra tools - bench vice, grinder with wire brush, Dremel tool. 14.Methods - I used gussets on trailing edges for a smooth cover and Polytone paint. I used 4-flap hinges (made from 2 flap stock). I lined my lift struts and did not use jury struts. That's about all I can think of right now. Have fun! Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel Kolb MKIII - N582CC (43.3 hrs) ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: Rivets and corrosion
Date: May 13, 1998
> Hopefully my worries are not founded and the rivets used ARE in fact >aluminium, so at least the wings and most large surfaces would not be >subject to this type of corrosion and the only danger spot would be Sorry but almost all the rivets are Stainless Steel, so dissimilar corrosion can be a problem. If you're building new, you can dip the rivets in primer before installing them as some folks have done, but I'm not sure this will stop the problem entirely. I didn't prime anything but the steel parts on my SlingShot and I live on the Gulf Coast of Florida where humidity is off the scale and all our salt is from the ocean. I figured the SS will have a structural lifetime of at least 10 years, and that's good enough for me. BTW- don't even think about substituting aluminum rivets without approval from Kolb, which I doubt you'll get. I think the stainless rivets are much stronger than aluminum, and you would compromise the strength by substituting. Rusty SlingShot flying RV-8A building ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: FW: Rivets and corrosion
Date: May 13, 1998
I poked each and every rivet into a piece of cardboard and then sprayed the ends with zinc chromate primer. I'm sure some was scratched off when the rivets were put into the drilled holes, but I figure it was better than nothing. > -----Original Message----- > From: Russell Duffy [SMTP:rad(at)pen.net] > Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 7:41 AM > To: Kolb mailing list > Subject: Re: Rivets and corrosion > > > Hopefully my worries are not founded and the rivets used ARE in fact > >aluminium, so at least the wings and most large surfaces would not be > >subject to this type of corrosion and the only danger spot would be > > > Sorry but almost all the rivets are Stainless Steel, so dissimilar > corrosion can > be a problem. If you're building new, you can dip the rivets in > primer before > installing them as some folks have done, but I'm not sure this will > stop the > problem entirely. I didn't prime anything but the steel parts on my > SlingShot > and I live on the Gulf Coast of Florida where humidity is off the > scale and all > our salt is from the ocean. I figured the SS will have a structural > lifetime of > at least 10 years, and that's good enough for me. > > BTW- don't even think about substituting aluminum rivets without > approval from > Kolb, which I doubt you'll get. I think the stainless rivets are much > stronger > than aluminum, and you would compromise the strength by substituting. > > Rusty > SlingShot flying > RV-8A building > > > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Ordered Mark3 today
Date: May 13, 1998
All very good advice! However, item 14 leaves me a little confused. It states, "I used 4-flap hinges (made from 2 flap stock). I lined my lift struts and did not use jury struts. " I'm not clear on what "4-flap hinges" or "2 flap stock" means. Also, what does "lined my lift struts" mean? Thanks, Ron Carroll Original Firestar -----Original Message----- From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)nationwide.net> Date: Wednesday May 13 1998 7:43 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Ordered Mark3 today >Monte and all, > >>engines you >>guys have on your Mark3's. > >When I first saw your post I saw Dallas and thought, "Great - another >project nearby". Then I saw Georga... We have 6 Kolbs of various models >around this area. All but one are flying and it might be by late summer >sometime. > >Engines... I have the Rotax 582 with B gear box and 3 bld IVO quick adjust >prop. I think that power train combination is perfect and the power is more >than plenty for the MKIII. I seldom run my engine more than in the low to >mid 5K rpm range except on take off and climb. > >You are going to have a great time building your Kolb. The number of hours >required are fairly stated at 500, although you could do it in maybe 300 the >second time around or you could spend 800 if you are a real detail freak. I >did mine in an estimated (I didn't log every hour - not fun for me - and I >didn't log or count dream time) 450-500 hours and it took about a year. I >did my share of mods too. > >Recommendations: > >1. Powder coat whether factory or by someone local. >2. Get built-in larger fuel tank. Pricy but worth it. 10 gallons equals >about 120+- miles with 1.5 - 2 gallons reserve... not enough IMO. >3. Your choice on brakes. I have cheap ones - just adequate - hydraulic are >much better but pricy. Lots of talk about bearings lately. Mine are >holding up OK so far. >4. Get full enclosure. >5. Make your own interior. Pepboys auto carpet (color co-ordinate) and a >1X4 arm board attached with U clamps. Get an outdoor cushion company to >make some comfortable airy custom seat cushions at around $20 each. >6. Build shock mounted instrument panel. >7. Build half doors for summer. Easy to do... and cool. >8. Buy prebuilt wing ribs. >9. You don't need electric start on a 582. >10.You don't need a battery (unless electric start or you just want one) as >the engine can power instruments, strobe, radios, etc. >11.MKIII's tend to be tail heavy so watch added weight aft of the CG. >12.Ballistic chute - your call - I have a soft pack in the wing gap seal. >13.Extra tools - bench vice, grinder with wire brush, Dremel tool. >14.Methods - I used gussets on trailing edges for a smooth cover and >Polytone paint. I used 4-flap hinges (made from 2 flap stock). I lined my >lift struts and did not use jury struts. > >That's about all I can think of right now. Have fun! > >Later, > >-- >Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist >(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas >and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel > Kolb MKIII - N582CC (43.3 hrs) > ____________________|_____________________ > ___(+^+)___ > (_) > 8 8 > > >- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Mirror Fuel Gage
Date: May 13, 1998
Which brings about another question directed to the Original Firestar owners: With the cage of the Original Firestar nearly fully covered, how do you check your fuel level while in-flight? I gotta kill these problems before I get too far along (about to cover the cage) Ron Carroll Original Firestar -----Original Message----- From: Wayland, William C. <wcw2573(at)eagle.sbeach.navy.mil> Date: Wednesday May 13 1998 7:13 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Mirror Fuel Gage >I fly my FireFly wearing both helmet and goggles. The goggles along with a >bit of a back problem makes twisting around to check the tank's fuel level a >problem. I purchased at Pep Boys one of those small rectangular convex >mirrors (1.4 X 2.2 inches). I cut four slots in both the top and bottom of >the mirror's plastic frame for two tie wraps. At the slots in the bottom of >the of the frame the tie wraps just come out and loop back into the frame. >Using the two tie wrap ends at the top of the mirror frame along with the >adhesive pad that comes on the back of the frame I mounted the mirror high >up on the cockpit side wall just behind my left shoulder. Now a downward >glance over my shoulder lets me clearly see the bottom half of the >translucent tank. > >Chris W. >- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Date: May 13, 1998
Subject: Re: Rivets and corrosion
In a message dated 5/13/98 6:33:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time, samten(at)cam.org writes: << I was under the impression that the rivets used in the assembly process were made of a hard aluminium alloy and that this problem would not be an issue. >> Wrong. The older Kolbs used cadmium plated steel rivets. The newer ones use stainless. I got my kit in 94 and was one of the first with stainless rivets. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Fuel ramblings
Date: May 13, 1998
Hi all, I finally finished the new fuel tank installation and eventually might post some pictures of it. I installed a 13.5 gallon under deck boat tank where the rear seat usually is in the SlingShot, and removed the standard jugs. I was able to run my vent outside the cockpit so it doesn't reek like fuel inside anymore. I also managed to install an outside fuel filler at the rear of the cage. Previously, it was difficult to fill the tanks on the plane, but now, I can just pour from any gas can. I like it. The downside to this is the loss of the rear seat. I don't think I would have ever carried a passenger there, but it was a good place to put my flight bag with tools, tiedowns, spare batteries, charts, etc. Now I have a large space available where the fuel jugs used to be, but there's not much access to it. I also used the time to make some other changes. I went ahead and replaced all my fuel line with auto type hose since I had it out anyway, and I removed the primer system at the same time. Recently, I've been having idle problems where it just slowly drops rpm until it would probably quit. I checked the choke and found that it might have been engaged just slightly, so that was adjusted to give just enough slack to make sure it was off. I set the idle bleed screws to 1/2 out each (one was 1/2 and the other was about 3/8 out of the box). Also, the throttle linkage was re-checked for full open and closed on both carbs, and the plugs were changed. I'm happy to say that something on the above list must have fixed the problem, because it runs beautifully now. During the fuel line re-routing, I installed a new filter and placed it parallel to the bottom of the main steel tube just in front of the engine. I don't feel really good about the way the fuel flows through the filter. The new filter is clear and rather large, and doesn't fill up as you would expect, rather it varies the fuel level inside depending on the RPM. At idle, there is barely any fuel in the filter, and at full throttle it's about half full. You can squeeze the fuel bulb while the engine is running and make the filter almost fill up, then it's like the fuel stops flowing from the tank until the level fall to where it originally was. I don't understand it, but I bet it's normal. It seems like I've seen the same behavior from inline car filters as well. Before this change, I had an opaque white filter and you couldn't see the level of the fuel. Perhaps ignorance is bliss. I plan to re-position the filter vertically (outlet on top) so that the huge air pocket has to go away, but it still seems like the pump isn't keeping the bowls full. Currently, the fuel squeeze bulb is positioned vertically, and it will be moved to horizontal as recommended by some folks. As it is, it seems to work fine. I went up for a short flight yesterday and tested all attitudes and throttle settings (over a private airstrip) with no sign of trouble, but it still bugs me too much to ignore. Any comments would be appreciated. Finally, (a sigh of relief from all) a slight retraction. I was whining about a week ago about buying an IVO prop that wasn't "electric ready". It pissed me off because I would certainly have opted for that designation if I had known about it at the time. It dawned on me later that I should have stated that I bought the prop from LEAF, and not from Kolb. Dennis said that they do inform people about the "electric ready" prop if the customer has any interest in later converting to the in-flight adjustable feature. Russell Duffy SlingShot SS-003, N8754K RV-8A building rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Mirror Fuel Gage
Ron, I remove the shoulder strap, and turn myself to the left to see through the slot for viewing the tank while trying not to move the control stick. Then I turn back and straighten the plane out, because it is never going the same direction as before I turned. Some people use a mirror mounted in the right spot. My method is difficult, but I only use it after I have been flying for over 1 1/2 hours. And one check is enough to comfirm the fuel burn and make a decission as where to land. John Jung > >Ron Carroll wrote: > > Which brings about another question directed to the Original Firestar > owners: > > With the cage of the Original Firestar nearly fully covered, how do you > check your fuel level while in-flight? > > I gotta kill these problems before I get too far along (about to cover the > cage) > > Ron Carroll > Original Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Rivets and corrosion
>Hi All,> I have been looking at a few different projects >like a nicely preserved aircraft might have serious structural problems >that could only be discovered if one decides to recover the structure. Good timing Yesterday I was getting some old tubing down to use it on my new project and I had to remove some old fittings that were rivited on.The rivits were ugly as heck,corroded and making a mess of the tube. I tried breaking the rivits off with no luck and finally drilled them out.There is a slight ring around where the rivit head was that may be removed with vigorous sanding.There was no other sign of bimetal erosion. I believe that these rivits were still safe but if I were recovering and saw them I would drill them out. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)nationwide.net>
Subject: Re: Ordered Mark3 today
>It >states, "I used 4-flap hinges (made from 2 flap stock). I lined my >lift struts and did not use jury struts. " I'm not clear on what "4-flap >hinges" or "2 flap stock" means. Also, what does "lined my lift struts" >mean? Ron and all, I copied the 4 flap hinge from the "Fergie" - a beefed up knock off design of the Kolb. You make them by melding two 2-flap hinges by cutting off every other link of the hinge. The result is a hinge with 4 attachment points around a single hinge pin that provides more stability for the two parts the hinge connects. It is a mod that I liked and copied. I will say that it took a lot of time to modify and the extra hinge material was expensive. The result though is a very stiff and strong connection. The only negative is that it might have increased the friction in the hinges. Aileron activation is rather heavy in flight vs the elevators. Even though, I think that is pretty common for the MKIII. Lined lift struts are like stock except there is a full length internal aluminum sleeve tube from one end to the other and it is sandwitched between the strut and the weldment attach points on each end. It adds enough stiffness to the strut that the jury strut can be eliminated. It was described in one of the Kolb newsletters a year or so ago. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel Kolb MKIII - N582CC (43.3 hrs) ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: May 13, 1998
Subject: Re: Ordered Mark3 today
> I copied the 4 flap hinge from the "Fergie" - a beefed up knock off design > of the Kolb. You make them by melding two 2-flap hinges by cutting off > every other link of the hinge. The result is a hinge with 4 attachment > points around a single hinge pin that provides more stability for the two > parts the hinge connects. Another alternative.....sure wish I'd seen these before I built. Check out the Rans hinges.....two sections that slip over the tube during construction and use an AN bolt as the hinge. Very slick....very easy installation. J. Baker ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net>
Subject: Re: Mirror Fuel Gage
Date: May 13, 1998
I have a clear piece of gas line running from the bottom of the tank to the steel tube near left arm and then up to top of tank. I can easily see fuel level without turning my head too much. Scott Olendorf Original Firestar with Rotax 377 Schenectady, NY -----Original Message----- From: Ron Carroll <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 11:24 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Mirror Fuel Gage >Which brings about another question directed to the Original Firestar >owners: > >With the cage of the Original Firestar nearly fully covered, how do you >check your fuel level while in-flight? > >I gotta kill these problems before I get too far along (about to cover the >cage) > >Ron Carroll >Original Firestar > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Wayland, William C. <wcw2573(at)eagle.sbeach.navy.mil> >To: 'kolb(at)intrig.com' >Date: Wednesday May 13 1998 7:13 AM >Subject: Mirror Fuel Gage > > >>I fly my FireFly wearing both helmet and goggles. The goggles along with a >>bit of a back problem makes twisting around to check the tank's fuel level >a >>problem. I purchased at Pep Boys one of those small rectangular convex >>mirrors (1.4 X 2.2 inches). I cut four slots in both the top and bottom of >>the mirror's plastic frame for two tie wraps. At the slots in the bottom >of >>the of the frame the tie wraps just come out and loop back into the frame. >>Using the two tie wrap ends at the top of the mirror frame along with the >>adhesive pad that comes on the back of the frame I mounted the mirror high >>up on the cockpit side wall just behind my left shoulder. Now a downward >>glance over my shoulder lets me clearly see the bottom half of the >>translucent tank. >> >>Chris W. >>- > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net>
Subject: Re: Rivets and corrosion
Date: May 13, 1998
I have just removed the fabric from my wings. Probably about 10 years old and kept outside for several years. Lots of the rivets are rusted and I am replacing all rivets that show any rust with stainless steel. By the way, does anyone know of a good paint in a spray can that can be used to prime the steel wing parts. One that doesn't dissolve in MEK. I ran out of epoxy primer and just need enough to do wings. Scott Olendorf Original Firestar with Rotax 377 Schenectady, NY -----Original Message----- From: Cavuontop <Cavuontop(at)aol.com> Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 11:40 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Rivets and corrosion >In a message dated 5/13/98 6:33:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time, samten(at)cam.org >writes: > ><< I was under the > impression that the rivets used in the assembly process were made of a > hard aluminium alloy and that this problem would not be an issue. >> > > >Wrong. The older Kolbs used cadmium plated steel rivets. The newer ones use >stainless. I got my kit in 94 and was one of the first with stainless rivets. >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: fuel rambling part 2
Date: May 13, 1998
Hi again, Today, I re-routed my new fuel system again. This time, I made the squeeze bulb horizontal, and the fuel filter vertical with the outlet on top. I figured this would guarantee that the filter would fill up completely and stay full. Despite my powers of logic, this isn't how it works. Now, the filter is half empty all the time (or half full for you optimists), but at least I can't squeeze the bulb with the engine running anymore so I know the carb bowls are full. It must be all right because I flew it almost 2 hours today. I even made the daring bay crossing again :-) Another thing I tried today was a reflexed flap setting. I gave myself two notches worth of reflex on the flap handle by shortening the push pull tubes yesterday. This amounts to only about 3-4 degrees at the most. I found that it makes a big diff in trim of the plane as expected, but after about a dozen stalls with and without the reflex, I couldn't tell any diff in stall speed. Unfortunately, there's no diff in cruise speed either. I'll probably add some more reflex and see how it goes. I'd like to get rid of my elevator trim spring if possible, and I'm still hoping for some extra cruise. I'll be installing a VSI tomorrow in place of my G-meter. I think I can get a lot more use out of the VSI, especially with all my upcoming exhaust testing. I posted a message on one of the newsgroups about the R&D pipe, and got one response from a guy that has one on his trike used for glider towing. So far, he said he has 10 hours on it and had a noticeable improvement in performance. He also reported that carb jetting didn't change. See ya later, Russell Duffy SlingShot SS-003, N8754K (25.9 hours) rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivets and corrosion
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 13, 1998
Mine are the regular steel rivets. I have Original FS kit #49. The rivets have not rusted and our climate in MN is humid in the summer. The rivets in the fuse have been exposed to a little road salt spray, but I try to keep them covered with polish. They show no signs of rust after 11 yrs. The salt air on the coast may be a completely different situation. I wished I have received the stainless ones with my kit. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar >In a message dated 5/13/98 6:33:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time, >samten(at)cam.org >writes: > >> I was under the impression that the rivets used in the assembly process >>were made of a hard aluminium alloy and that this problem would not be an >>issue. >> >Wrong. The older Kolbs used cadmium plated steel rivets. The newer >ones use stainless. I got my kit in 94 and was one of the first with stainless >rivets. >- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Hinges
Noticed a blurb today on beefing the aileron hinges on the MKIII. Here's another way to do it. Get a few extra sets of the stainless steel hinges that are used on the front of the horizontal stab. After you have all the other aileron hinges on and everything, and are satisfied with the movement, then do this: Take 4 of those L-shaped stainless steel hinge parts, and bolt them together with an AN-3 bolt, just like on the front of the stab. Stick this assembly up between the aileron and wing trailing edge, with the bolt/hinge part on the bottom. The hinge line of the AN-3 bolt should be in line with your normal aileron hinge line. Take 4 hose clamps, and clamp things just tight enough to keep things still, and adjust, and work the aileron. When everything moves smoothly with no binding, tighten the hose clamps, and check it one more time. If it is still smooth, and the action is satisfactory, drill and rivit with 3/16" stainless rivits. That bad boy is rigid, and eliminates all the flex normally associated with the flat aluminum hinges. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 1998
From: "Jim Gerken GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM" <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject: Trim for Yaw with engine angle
(Ben or someone)... Could you please append the explanation of trimming for Yaw by angling the engine up or down AGAIN? I promise I will save the note this time. Thanks again... P.S. My Garmin 12XL came back from repair today. They replaced it with a completly new unit. My original one was 5 months old, version 3.51, had the shutdown problem and all of a sudden it lost all my waypoints. The new one is version 4.00 and contains a new feature: a database of cities. I have already found all the near-by towns in it, including two of them that are under 500 people! I am a very satisified Garmin customer, service almost as good as Kolb Co.! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 1998
From: Ron Reece <rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com>
Subject: useful life
Group With all this talk of opposite metal (rivets) and corrosion, with is the useful life of a FS? Is it something that'll be scrap in 10 or 12 years? If this is the case, i'm not so sure I would want to invest in same. Any comments would be looked on with great interest. Thanks. Ron Reece Return: rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com Raytheon Corp. Ft. Wayne IN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLSOUDER <DLSOUDER(at)aol.com>
Date: May 14, 1998
Subject: Longevity
<< Group With all this talk of opposite metal (rivets) and corrosion, with is the useful life of a FS? Is it something that'll be scrap in 10 or 12 years? If this is the case, i'm not so sure I would want to invest in same. Any comments would be looked on with great interest. Thanks. >> There are still lots and lots of Ultrastars still flying and the last one of these was sold about 13 years ago. Actually a number of the older Flyers still flyin and some of these go back 18 years. Also lots of 13 year old FireStars still flying. The figure of 10-12 years seems overly pessimistic. The one I'm going to be watching is a new ultralight that just came on the scene that uses alumimum tubing with copper elbows tying it together. Talk about dissimiliar metals!!! Dennis Souder Pres Kolb Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 1998
From: Ron Reece <rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com>
Subject: Re: Longevity
> > ><< Group > > With all this talk of opposite metal (rivets) and corrosion, with is the > useful life of a FS? Is it something that'll be scrap in 10 or 12 years? > If this is the case, i'm not so sure I would want to invest in same. Any > comments would be looked on with great interest. Thanks. > >> > >There are still lots and lots of Ultrastars still flying and the last one of >these was sold about 13 years ago. Actually a number of the older Flyers >still flyin and some of these go back 18 years. Also lots of 13 year old >FireStars still flying. The figure of 10-12 years seems overly pessimistic. > >The one I'm going to be watching is a new ultralight that just came on the >scene that uses alumimum tubing with copper elbows tying it together. Talk >about dissimiliar metals!!! > >Dennis Souder >Pres Kolb Aircraft >- Dennis Glad to here that my thoughts were not correct (re. 10 to 12). I hope you didn't take things the wrong way, I wasn't trying to flame the FS or any other Kolb product. The thread on dissimilar metals business just made me a little nervous and I had to ask. I have read that Ben and a couple of others have dipped there rivets prior to insertion, does this help with corrosion? Thanks for setting me straight and calming my fears. Ron Reece Return: rcreec(at)most.fw.hac.com Raytheon Corp. Ft. Wayne IN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Longevity of Kolb Aircraft
Howdy Guys and Gals: My old flying buddy and hangar mate, MSG Ed Davis, US Army Retired, now deceased, built a Ultrastar in 1985. I flew it the last time in Jun 87. It sat in his hangar until the first of the year when it was sold to a friend who refurbished it a little. Structurally, everything was sound except the carbon steel rivets in the lift strut fittings. I was also concerned about rivets in the wings and tailsection, but after inspection they proved to be sound. Ed' US flew last week at the age of 13 and after resting earth bound for 11 years. Nothing was done to protect it, but a t hanger with an open front. The Cuyuna UL II O II was gone thru and it runs like a new one. I personally use "tube seal" in my chromoly tubes, especially the airframe, and have on all the airplanes I have built. Unfortunately, I broke the first two before I had a chance to see if it really helped. Only kidding. The Ultrastar was kept in the cow pasture in the open with a strand of barbed wire around it to keep the cows away from it for more than a year. Once when I broke it and had to cut some tubes to replace, the inside of the tubing was clean and free of rust. On the other hand a tube which didn't get tube seal was damp and rusty inside. My MK III airframe is seven years old and I don't think it necessary at this time to try and put a as of date on it. I started using SS rivets long before they became popular to use with Kolbs. My 1986 Firestar was completely constructed with SS rivets. Didn't mean to run on at the keyboard like this. So solly, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Mirror Fuel Gage (and rivets)
>mirror mounted in the right spot. My method is difficult, but I only use >it after I have been flying for over 1 1/2 hours. And one check is >enough to comfirm the fuel burn and make a decission as where to land. >John Jung I like to check more often. I almost always check about 5 minutes out after taking off and also periodically after that, just to feel comfortable that fuel is disappearing at about the right rate. You never know when "Murphy is my co-pilot". My tank is a normal install except that it is ~7" higher, but I don't think this is a factor in ease of checking. Anyway, it seems a relatively easy squirm maneuver to check fuel, well worth the piece of mind. For back problems, hmmm, mirrors, added tubing for sight gauge? Hey, regarding rivets: If anybody is counting, the change to stainless rivets is another little bit where Kolb has made the kits better with no fanfare or appreciable price increase. I'm impressed with Jason's extra effort to prime each rivet. His trick was a smarter time saver than what I did. (I kept a jar of rustoleum and dipped each rivet in it before setting.) I didn't even know until now that they had changed to stainless. I'm inclined to think stainless is overkill except in humid/salty/etc conditions. Especially if the plane is stored inside, and the rivets dabbed w/ epoxy before covering (as recommended in plans), I think the plane should last a very long time. Another thought (i've always got more)... remember also that Stits covering tends to hold the structure tight, which inhibits vibration as well as corrosive evils. -Ben Ransom http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~ransom -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Rivets and corrosion
>By the way, does anyone know of a good paint in a spray can that can be >used to prime the steel wing parts. One that doesn't dissolve in MEK. I >ran out of epoxy primer and just need enough to do wings. You could use Rustoleum spray primer, then a coat of latex. I used a latex brand "ToughCoat" that was fine with moderate doses of MEK, and completely fine for PolyTac. (Many other primers would do, but this is just one that is commonly available in aerosol cans.) Also, brushing on primer can work easily, and for the wings, there is practically no steel to show even if there were tiny brush strokes left behind. -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 1998
From: skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 503 rough runner
Gentlemen, A friend of mine has a FireStar with a Rotax 503, dual carb, dual ignition and oil injection. -- A beautiful engine -- It let him down the other day and we're trying to figure out what is happening. Running along just fine at 5500 rpm when the engine suddenly went to about 3200 rpm and the throttle had no effect. Fortunately, a safe landing on the home airfield was made. Tried a ground run and the same thing happened after about 5 minutes of simulated cruise power. Bought a new dual Mikuni fuel pump and installed it today. Ground ran the engine and everything looked good (except the egts were a little low) and the engine static'd a little over 6000 rpm. Brought the power back to 5500 and after about 5 minutes the rpm SUDDENLY, again, dropped to about 3000 rpm. Mag checks were normal. Brought the engine to idle for a while and it then would rev up normally. A new fuel filter has been installed as has new fuel lines. We all have time to work on the machine tomorrow..... Any suggestions??? Thanks, Skip ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 503 rough runner
41-42,44-51
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: May 14, 1998
Skip, The same thing happened to me a few years back. I was using one of those tiny paper fuel filters and it clogged up on me. Before changing it I had changed the pump, plugs, and fuel. Have you ran the engine since changing the fuel filter? If not it may run fine now and you will never know what caused the problem. My engine (377), ran fine on the ground, but after 5 min in the air, it lost rpm and the throttle had no effect. Eventually the filter will clog all the way and starve the engine. You may have got a hold of some bad gas. Another problem may be a partially clogged primer bulb. It should be bypassed with fuel line around it just in case. I use a large paper filter that can be purchased at most auto stores and I change it annually. Using those tiny ones is asking for trouble. I hope this is the problem since it's an easy fix. I wouldn't recommend flying it until you find out what caused it. I hope you still have that old filter. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: > >Gentlemen, > >A friend of mine has a FireStar with a Rotax 503, dual carb, dual >ignition and oil injection. -- A beautiful engine -- It let him down the >other day and we're trying to figure out what is happening. >Running along just fine at 5500 rpm when the engine suddenly went to >about 3200 rpm and the throttle had no effect. Fortunately, a safe landing >on the home airfield was made. Tried a ground run and the same thing >happened after about 5 minutes of simulated cruise power. Bought a new dual >Mikuni fuel pump and installed it today. Ground ran the engine and >everything looked good (except the egts were a little low) and the engine >static'd a little over 6000 rpm. Brought the power back to 5500 and after about >5 minutes the rpm SUDDENLY, again, dropped to about 3000 rpm. Mag >checks were normal. Brought the engine to idle for a while and it then would >rev up normally. A new fuel filter has been installed as has new fuel >lines. We all have time to work on the machine tomorrow..... Any >suggestions??? > >Thanks, >Skip > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Rivets and corrosion
Guy, The only aluminum rivets are those that attached the fabric. But I have had the chance to observe a few old Ultrastars and an early Firestar during rebuilding and I didn't observe any problem with the rivets. I did see corrosion on steel that was not adequately protected, but not at the rivets. I live in Wisconsin with plenty of salt used on the roads during the winter, but IMO, the salt would not be an issue unless the plane was hauled on an open trailer during the winter, or used as a floatplane on salt water. John Jung Firestar II N6163J Original Firestar For Sale -> http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/ > > Tetreault wrote: > > Hi All, > I have been looking at a few different projects lately and some are > quite appealing. Being a newcomer to ULs I am trying to learn as much as > I can and I have the impression that building one's own aircraft is one > of the best ways to learn. > Not to long ago, on the list, I read about the issue of corrosion, > particularly when dissimilar metals are involved. I was under the > impression that the rivets used in the assembly process were made of a > hard aluminium alloy and that this problem would not be an issue. Now > I'm a bit concerned that if/when steel rivets are used, what might look > like a nicely preserved aircraft might have serious structural problems > that could only be discovered if one decides to recover the structure. > Hopefully my worries are not founded and the rivets used ARE in fact > aluminium, so at least the wings and most large surfaces would not be > subject to this type of corrosion and the only danger spot would be > wherever steel parts are attached to aluminium parts. Still this > dissimilar metal issue has started me wondering about the wisdom of > restoration versus the security of building brand new. > Here (Montreal area), humidity is quite high all year and winter brings > the overuse of salt on the roads which I'm sure finds its way into > almost anything that's close enough to any kind of major road or > highway. > I hope I'm overreacting here and that things aren't so bad, but any > thoughts on this will be appreciated. > Thanks, > > Guy, > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: May 14, 1998
Subject: Re: Longevity
> Also lots of 13 year old > FireStars still flying. The figure of 10-12 years seems overly pessimistic. > > The one I'm going to be watching is a new ultralight that just came on the > scene that uses alumimum tubing with copper elbows tying it together. Talk > about dissimiliar metals!!! > > Dennis Souder For those who want to research the issue here are some informative sites. http://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/04-html/4-1.html http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht-87-1.html http://www.stusteel.com/galvseri.htm http://wuarchive.wustl.edu/edu/arts/metal/TOC/material/corros.txt http://www.assda.asn.au/pickling.html The interesting thing is that the rivets (usually made of 304 series stainless) are much closer to aluminum, galvanically, in the active state and farther away when in the passivated state......but that's not something you can control.....all your SS will acheive the passivated state unless you build and fly in an inert atmosphere. J. Baker

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