Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ar

June 03, 1998 - June 24, 1998



      >
      >Tom Kuffel, CFI, EAA Flight Advisor, etc.
      >
      >-
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
                (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Sticky Wicket
Date: Jun 03, 1998
Hello All: Am working at FF#76 and have hit a little snag with the fitting of the chromalloy tail ring onto the fuselage tube. The good book mentions that it might be a "little tight" but my experience with this little problem is gradually working a tad past that prosaic description. I have ground bevelled edges on both the ring and the tube with a Dremel tool... worked over the ring with emory cloth and steel wool, polished the devil out of the fuselage tube with various steel wool grades, and have slathered enough silicone and mouse-milk around the garage to qualify the premises for listing as an environmental Superfund site.... Both parts are all slick and smooth, but I am still unable to rubber mallet the ring onto the tube...(and I have an industrial-sized mallet)... Am now considering standing the tube on end in a bucket of ice water, while heating the ring in a mild way (not enough to de-temper the aluminum riveted to it) and having a go at it that way... The problem is, of course, that I must later take that sucker apart again after I finish the alignment process in order to cover the tail... I'm afraid it will be nearly impossible to get off if I must resort to the hot/cold treatment to put it together... Any of you "old" Kolbers out there have any better ideas about how this problem might be approached? Sure would appreciate hearing from you... Thanks... Bill Tuton... (lost somewhere in West central Florida....)
Hello All:
Am working at FF#76 and have hit a little snag with the fitting of the chromalloy tail ring onto the fuselage tube.  The good book mentions that it might be a "little tight" but my experience with this little problem is gradually working a tad past that prosaic description.
I have ground bevelled edges on both the ring and the tube with a Dremel tool... worked over the ring with emory cloth and steel wool, polished the devil out of the fuselage tube with various steel wool grades, and have slathered enough silicone and mouse-milk around the garage to qualify the premises for listing as an environmental Superfund site....  Both parts are all slick and smooth, but I am still unable to rubber mallet the ring onto the tube...(and I have an industrial-sized mallet)...
Am now considering standing the tube on end in a bucket of ice water, while heating the ring in a mild way (not enough to de-temper the aluminum riveted to it) and having a go at it that way...
The problem is, of course, that I must later take that sucker apart again after I finish the alignment process in order to cover the tail...  I'm afraid it will be nearly impossible to get off if I must resort to the hot/cold treatment to put it together...
Any of you "old" Kolbers out there have any better ideas about how this problem might be approached?  Sure would appreciate hearing from you...
Thanks...
Bill Tuton... (lost somewhere in West central Florida....) 
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Firefly
Brian, Here is my opinion of a using a Hirth engine on a new plane: You will be more of a test pilot than you would be with a Rotax. You will be more likely to have problems, and have more trouble getting those problems solved. If you are a new pilot, or even if you are new to 2-cycles, this could be a less than desireable situation. If you are not a new pilot and are comfortable with 2-cycles, and have a strong desire to have a Hirth, then go for it. A properly maintained Rotax is a very dependable engine. Also parts and information are readily availble for Rotaxes. I have a couple of friends that have been using Hirths for years. Also, I recently aquired a used 2704 that I am considering testing on one of my Firestars. The 2704 has the ability to produce power at lower rpms and because of that, it should run quieter. That is the only advantage that I would expect. I would like a quieter engine. John Jung > >> > >>Brian Copple wrote: snip... > >> I'm considering a Hirth 2702 for a power plant. Any comments?? > >> > >> Brian in Washington State ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net>
Subject: Velcro sources
Date: Jun 03, 1998
My recovering project is going smooth although slower than I expected. I am covering one wing now and should have the other wing covered and ready for paint by Tuesday. After that I just need to paint the wings and go flying. I got my BRS chute back today. BRS converted it from a BRS-4 to a BRS-5 and told me it would be a little bigger. I didn't figure that would be a problem but it took me 2 hours to get it to fit and strap it in place. I almost gave up and decided to call BRS to see what other mounting hardware I could get, but then I just took the mounting hardware off, positioned it, and tried to see if the bracket would attach somehow and it did! Does anyone have a source for the 2" Velcro. I'm gonna need some soon. Scott Olendorf Original Firestar with Rotax 377 Schenectady, NY ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Mix of traffic
I think what you are looking for is FAR 91.13 (a) AIRCRAFT OPERATIONS FOR THE PURPOSE OF AIR NAVIGATION No person may operate an aircraft in a careless or reckless manner so as to endanger the life or property of another. Also, 91.119 (c) Minimum Safe Altitudes: General Except when necessary for takeoff or landing, no person may operate an aircraft below the following altitudes: OVER OTHER THAN CONGESTED AREAS: An altitude of 500 feet above the surface. except over open water or sparsely populated areas. In those cases, the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to any person, vehicle, or structure. (Ultralights are vehicles)(with persons!) Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >Enough of that, now I have a question for the group. I am having trouble >finding the exact "page & chapter" in the FAA Regs to support my pet peeve, >perhaps someone can help. > >PET PEEVE: High speed, low level passes ( Just showin' off ! ) > >I recently had a fairly close call while in the landing pattern at my home >airport. I was returning home in an ultralight flight of four, doing a >crosswind for downwind and had announced our intentions prior to entering >the crosswind. The noise of my plane made it hard for me to hear my radio, >but I did hear the FBO announce to someone, "Be advised, there are >ultralights in the pattern". > >I, in the lead plane, had passed the centerline of the runway and was on a >left downwind. The second plane had just passed the centerline and was >turning downwind, and the other two planes were coming up on the centerline >when three T-34s, flying in formation, came zooming down the centerline at >about 50' AGL, doing probably 200 mph. At the end of the runway they did >an airshow type pullout into a starburst, barely missing out ultralight >flight of four. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax experience
>Richard: I take it you have a Rotax on your Mark III. What is your opinion >of the Rotax engine. How long have you been flying it and do you know of >people who have had seizure problems with them? What, in your opinion is the >most common cause of seizure on these engines and can anything be done in >the maintainance or preflight procedures to avoid them. Being new to >2-strokes I am getting the impression that seizure is "the risk you take" >with 2-stroke engines. >Would appreciate your thoughts. > > Rotax is a good engine. I have used them since 1983. There have been a lot of them used here in NE Tenn. and SW Virginia, and the only seizure was from a blown mag end seal, sucking air and got lean. There may have been some I didn't hear about. 2-strokes seize because people don't understand how to deal with them, they are not as tolerant of bad timing and bad mixture/prop loads as 4 strokes. They will seize if run at half throttle in high speed descents because they will get too lean, even tho lightly loaded. The biggest cause of non-seize engine failures is poor systems design, maintainance, and preflight. Treat it like an airplane engine, not a clapped-out dirt bike, don't lug or over rev it, use good oil. pull the exhaust system every 50 hours and check the rings, and repair or replace anything that doesn't look right. It still won't be a Lycoming, but it will be good enough for an airplane that stalls under 40 knots, and is not always flown over hostile terrain. If you are not used to 2 strokes, get some one that is to help you get yours running right, and learn why it does what it does. If you don't want to do that, don't get one. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: " Jim Hanson" <jdhanson(at)ptd.net>
Subject: re: velcro sources
Date: Jun 04, 1998
Try any craft store, medical supply store, fabric/sewing stores/departments. I've seen it at Wal-Mart and K-Mart in the fabric/sewing sections.
Try any craft store, medical supply store, fabric/sewing stores/departments.  I've seen it at Wal-Mart and K-Mart in the fabric/sewing sections.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rutledge fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: instruction
Date: Jun 04, 1998
Glen's number is (850) 592-5891 Home (850) 592-8547 Hanger Also Mike Highsmith in Panama City has a Ferguson. His number is (850) 234-9404 ----Original Message Follows---- Date: Wed, 03 Jun 1998 00:52:59 -0400 From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: instruction >Hey gang, > >I'm looking for someone in Georgia or Alabama area that gives instruction >in a MarkIII or a Ferguson. See if you can track down Glenn Rinck in Grand Ridge , Florida. He can probably tell you who can do it. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Velcro sources
Date: Jun 04, 1998
Scott; Besides the local craft stores, hardware stores, wal-mart etc., there is Velcro USA x213-225-8440. It comes in many styles, widths, and colors. You do not have only black and white to choose from. -----Original Message----- From: Scott Olendorf [SMTP:olendorf(at)empireone.net] Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 1998 6:45 PM To: Kolb List Subject: Velcro sources My recovering project is going smooth although slower than I expected. I am covering one wing now and should have the other wing covered and ready for paint by Tuesday. After that I just need to paint the wings and go flying. I got my BRS chute back today. BRS converted it from a BRS-4 to a BRS-5 and told me it would be a little bigger. I didn't figure that would be a problem but it took me 2 hours to get it to fit and strap it in place. I almost gave up and decided to call BRS to see what other mounting hardware I could get, but then I just took the mounting hardware off, positioned it, and tried to see if the bracket would attach somehow and it did! Does anyone have a source for the 2" Velcro. I'm gonna need some soon. Scott Olendorf Original Firestar with Rotax 377 Schenectady, NY - ________________________________________________________________________________ (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with ESMTP
From: "merle hargis" <merlepilar(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Velcro sources
Date: Jun 04, 1998
check http://www.textol.com for velcro sources. Merle from Orlando ---------- > From: Wood, John T. <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> > To: 'Scott Olendorf' ; Kolb List > Subject: RE: Velcro sources > Date: Thursday, June 04, 1998 9:10 AM > > Scott; > Besides the local craft stores, hardware stores, wal-mart etc., there is > Velcro USA x213-225-8440. It comes in many styles, widths, and colors. You > do not have only black and white to choose from. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Scott Olendorf [SMTP:olendorf(at)empireone.net] > Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 1998 6:45 PM > To: Kolb List > Subject: Velcro sources > > My recovering project is going smooth although slower than I > expected. I am > covering one wing now and should have the other wing covered and > ready for > paint by Tuesday. After that I just need to paint the wings and go > flying. > > I got my BRS chute back today. BRS converted it from a BRS-4 to a > BRS-5 and > told me it would be a little bigger. I didn't figure that would be > a > problem but it took me 2 hours to get it to fit and strap it in > place. I > almost gave up and decided to call BRS to see what other mounting > hardware I > could get, but then I just took the mounting hardware off, > positioned it, > and tried to see if the bracket would attach somehow and it did! > > Does anyone have a source for the 2" Velcro. I'm gonna need some > soon. > > Scott Olendorf > Original Firestar with Rotax 377 > Schenectady, NY > > - > - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Velcro sources
Scott Olendorf wrote: snip > Does anyone have a source for the 2" Velcro. I'm gonna need some soon. > Scott, In Wisconsin, I get it at "JoAnn Fabrics". Just call fabric stores until you find the stuff. John Jung ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rinehart, Mark W." <Mark.W.Rinehart(at)Allison.com>
Subject: RV-8 Crash
Date: Jun 04, 1998
I know this isn't exactly Kolb related, so forgive me, but I heard that the RV-8 prototype (an aircraft and company I admire as much as Kolb) crashed last weekend. The rumored cause was structural failure. Supposedly the demo pilot and a potential customer were killed. Anyone out there know any of the details? I know one person on the list has been talking about building an RV (is it Rusty?). Mark Rinehart "MK III BFI wanna be" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: RV-8 Crash
Date: Jun 04, 1998
Hi; I have a friend that is building an RV-4 and he indicated what you have heard. The wing on the RV-8 is a new design and may have suffered structural failure. Everyone in the RV community is anxiously waiting for the FAA and NTSB findings. It was their test pilot, John Morgan, he also flew the plane to flyins and airshows. As I understand it, he was giving a ride to a prospective customer at the time of the accident. The accident occured near Blythe, California. John FSII (covering wings) -----Original Message----- From: Rinehart, Mark W. [SMTP:Mark.W.Rinehart(at)Allison.com] Sent: Thursday, June 04, 1998 1:30 PM To: 'kolb(at)www.intrig.com' Subject: RV-8 Crash I know this isn't exactly Kolb related, so forgive me, but I heard that the RV-8 prototype (an aircraft and company I admire as much as Kolb) crashed last weekend. The rumored cause was structural failure. Supposedly the demo pilot and a potential customer were killed. Anyone out there know any of the details? I know one person on the list has been talking about building an RV (is it Rusty?). Mark Rinehart "MK III BFI wanna be" - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Howard Penny <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se>
Subject: RE: RV-8 Crash
Date: Jun 04, 1998
The crash was about 2:00pm May 24. According to NTSB, due to in-flight structural failure. Rumor has it after some high stress maneuvers. It was N58RV the RV-8 not the RV-8A. This was the plane I sat in (didn't fly in because of a waterlogged airstrip) when I was at RV in March. Sorry I don't know anything more. This is a great tragedy for friends and families and to a great line of aircraft. The Thunder Mustang by Denny (of Kitfox fame) crashed Saturday the 30th killing 2. More information is @ www.landings.com Howard G. Penny RTP, NC penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se /* ------------------------- */ -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com [mailto:owner-kolb(at)intrig.com] On Behalf Of Rinehart, Mark W. Sent: Thursday, June 04, 1998 4:30 PM To: 'kolb(at)www.intrig.com' Subject: Kolb-List: RV-8 Crash I know this isn't exactly Kolb related, so forgive me, but I heard that the RV-8 prototype (an aircraft and company I admire as much as Kolb) crashed last weekend. The rumored cause was structural failure. Supposedly the demo pilot and a potential customer were killed. Anyone out there know any of the details? I know one person on the list has been talking about building an RV (is it Rusty?). Mark Rinehart "MK III BFI wanna be" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Crash
Date: Jun 04, 1998
>out there know any of the details? I know one person on the list has >been talking about building an RV (is it Rusty?). Correct, I'm building an RV-8A and should be receiving my wing kit in a 2-3 weeks. Others have posted all the info that's been released, but there are some other tidbits that should be mentioned. One rumor stated that the wing spar buckled just outboard of the wing tank, but this is consistent with the results of the original static testing of the RV-8 wings. The RV-8 wings do use a different spar design, but they have been proven to be stronger than the previous spar. "Proven" is a key word here, because the design was tested to destruction as part of it's development (note to Dennis- SOME manufacturers do this with sand bags ). The wing passed all of it's design specs, and failed at just over 9G's I believe. This is at a higher weight than other RV designs. The ultimate failure in testing was at the same place the prototype is rumored to have failed. This would lead me to believe the wing was overstressed. The RV wings are very strong, but nothing is unbreakable. Van is expected to make a statement fairly soon, but in a way, he already has. The other prototype is still flying and making demo rides as if nothing happened. Van is known as the world's most conservative engineer, and if he believed there was ANY chance the wing was defective, the other factory prototypes would be on the ground, and builders would be notified. I'm very sorry to see this tragedy occur, but it doesn't shake my confidence in the design at all. Until the investigation is complete, we won't know what really happened. Van's still has my complete trust, and so does Kolb. Rusty SlingShot, SN- SS-003 RV-8A, SN- 80587 (587th RV-8 kit sold) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net>
Subject: Re: Velcro sources
Date: Jun 04, 1998
Again the list comes through! Thanks everyone for the info. I'll check the local shops. Scott -----Original Message----- From: Wood, John T. <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> Date: Thursday, June 04, 1998 9:14 AM Subject: Kolb-List: RE: Velcro sources >Scott; > Besides the local craft stores, hardware stores, wal-mart etc., there is >Velcro USA x213-225-8440. It comes in many styles, widths, and colors. You >do not have only black and white to choose from. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 1998
From: William Hinkelmann <whink(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Savanaha Ga.
Will be working in Savanaha Ga. for the next few weeks and plan on trailering my Kolb there from Cumming Ga. Need a place to park my plane and camp. Heat, Humidity, and NoSeeums permitting. Any Suggestions?? _____________________ William Hinkelmann whink(at)mindspring.com Modified FS-II North Atlanta, Ga. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 1998
From: Jeff Stripling <jstripli(at)io.com>
Subject: More info on the RV-8 crash
Forwarded to the list. Jeff R. Stripling jstripli(at)io.com (512) 252-3053 ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 16:10:58 -0500 From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> Subject: Kolb-List: RE: RV-8 Crash Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 17:14:15 -0400 See: http://www.avweb.com/newswire/news9822.html#9 (page down a bit to the RV8 story) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: NTSB- RV-8
Date: Jun 04, 1998
I just found the NTSB report on the RV-8. It was a bit slow to be released, but it can be seen at: http://www.ntsb.gov/Aviation/LAX/98A171.htm Van's will be keeping their own update on the web page at: http://www.vansaircraft.com/sections/n58rv.htm Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Radios
Date: Jun 04, 1998
Hi gang: I have to agree with Ron Christenson. Flying in the L.A. area really is enjoyable - once you've been there a few times. I was very intimidated at first, but now find real pleasure in the inter-action with the controllers. A flight from Palm Springs to Catalina Island last Sept. started with some apprehension, and wound up being an absolute blast, as well as one of the most enjoyable flights I've ever made. No, not in an U/L, it was a 172, but one of the non-flying friends I took is now attending U/L meetings and getting ready to go flying himself. This is a lead-in to stating my commitment to having a radio, etc. appropriate to your flying, and USING them. My Mk lll is also fully equipped for controlled airspace - if I ever get it flying. One of the most amazing things I've seen is an incident at an EAA fly-in at Port Townsend, WA two years or so ago. An U/L trainer turned final in front of a GA aircraft that was already established on a full pattern final. (I think it was a Beech Sundowner) The two aircraft did make in air contact, but both landed safely and no one was hurt. Beech pilot was on the air. U/L pilot is known to me personally, and was pretty shook. My first question was - "Were you announcing on the radio ??" "This is an uncontrolled airport," he snarled, "I'm not required to use a radio." Traffic that day was heavy, due to the fly-in, and yes, he did have a working hand-held on board. 'Nuff sed. I was fat and happy with my Kuntzleman strobes, till I read the comments last week on the weaknesses of some units. Any Kuntzleman users out there that have good words to say about them ?? shining a laser pointer thru' the cam-shaft bores at the tail. Seems reasonable and I have one available to me. Any other ideas ?? BTW, the straight in approach controversy is like religion and politics. My own feeling is fine, so long as you are in full contact on the radio, and you obstruct nobody in the pattern. Everyone else has right of way over the straight in. Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Straight-in's
> BTW, the straight in approach controversy is like religion and >politics. My own feeling is fine, so long as you are in full contact on >the radio, and you obstruct nobody in the pattern. Everyone else has right >of way over the straight in. Big Lar. > Pardon me for being opinionated, but having spent 25 years in a control tower, I am, and here it is. You would be amazed at the number of pilots that are on downwind, base, final, etc. and I call traffic to them, and they don't have the traffic in sight. It seems a simple thing, but sometimes it just does not seem to happen that pilots in airplanes in the pattern can see other airplanes in the pattern. The traditional method of entering the downwind at 45 degrees and then flying a normal sized pattern (unlike some that fly B-52 patterns; ARRGGH!) minimizes convergence even if you don't see the other guy. Since I started flying again in 78', I have not made any straight in approaches to any airport except my own private cow pasture, or at a controlled field. Not bragging, it's just not necessary, and it sets a poor example. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Russell" <jr(at)ROMETOOL.COM>
Subject: Georgia Air Rally
Date: Jun 05, 1998
The Georgia Sport Flyers are having there yearly Flyin and competition June 27-28. Camping, Food, Prizes. Location: Etowah Bend Airfield, NW Georgia (Near Cartersville, Ga.) Coordinates: N34 11 583 , W84 58 310 (Monitor 123.45 on VHF) Info: E-Mail jr(at)rometool.com or call Brad Methvin 770-509-6753 Everyone Welcome
The Georgia Sport Flyers are having there yearly Flyin and competition
June 27-28. Camping, Food, Prizes.
Location: Etowah Bend Airfield, NW Georgia (Near Cartersville, Ga.)
Coordinates: N34 11 583 , W84 58 310 (Monitor 123.45 on VHF)
Info: E-Mail jr(at)rometool.com or call Brad Methvin 770-509-6753
  Everyone Welcome
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com>
Subject: Kuntzleman Strobes
Date: Jun 05, 1998
Dick Kuntzleman is a friend of mine, so I forwarded him several of the strobe messages from previous threads. He left a phone message with my wife that he tried to reply, but had difficulties. I'll work with him on his email technical problems, but the short answer is that you'll never go wrong with Kuntzleman strobes, which are very bright and very reliable. However, the J C Whitney ones are fairly weak. I'll let Dick speak for himself to the group, and his email address is above. ============= (from Larry Bourne [larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net]) > I was fat and happy with my Kuntzleman strobes, till I read the > comments last week on the weaknesses of some units. Any Kuntzleman users > out there that have good words to say about them ?? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 1998
From: Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: straight in approaches
Another reason to fly the pattern is to visually check the condition of the runway. The otherday we came back from a flight and the field was being mowed by a nice green tractor and a guy in camaflag coat. No kidding! on a straight in he would have been nearly invisable untill you were about to hit him. After we knew he was there we still had a hard time seeing him from the pattern. you had to stair at the field and wait till you noticed movement. The B-52 pattern comment is a good one... being a new pilot I am guilty of fairly inconsistent patterns and had a guy flying a pattern inside and below me, I was abit wide and high he was way low and inside, that I didnt see at all till I turned base and ther he was, we had to climb to avoid him. I am convinced that precise patterns are the key to avoiding traffic in the pattern. planes are hard to see and when they are in the pattern you att least know where to look for them. Radios help a ton. we finally have the radio hooked up in the champ and I feel much safer... as cheep as handhelds are nowadays Maybee FAA should go ahead and require them... Did I just request more regulation? help me I am going insane! Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen Lanham" <sdlanham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb Insurance
Date: Jun 05, 1998
I am contemplating building an FSII/503. Contemplating, that is, until I talked to AVEMCO about liability insurance. The builder policy wasn't too bad - two or three hundred annually. The project killer was the liability policy after completion - $1500 to $1600 annually! I could insure a real plane for that kind of money. Anyone else out there received the same quote, or am I particularly lucky? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 1998
From: Terry Wells <tgw(at)aloha.net>
Subject: Rotax Question
I have a 582 on my MKIII which just hit 100 hours so I decided to look for carbon buildup. Looks nice and clean ( maybe too clean). plugs look good. There has always been about 3/16" of slop when moving the tip of the prop which I've always assumed was in the gearbox. But this time I noticed it seems to come from inside the crankcase area like maybe the rod as the piston moves through tdc. There is a slight tunk tunk sound inside as I wiggle the prop tip. This is more noticeable with the front cylinder, which has always run about 30 degrees hotter but within limits. Am I paranoid? I would appreciate advice from those of you with more experience. Terry Wells ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Insurance
Date: Jun 05, 1998
>too bad - two or three hundred annually. The project killer was the >liability policy after completion - $1500 to $1600 annually! I could You must be quoting a full coverage policy and not just liability. If you have fairly high limits, and stated value of the aircraft, I can believe those numbers. Due to the high cost of full coverage, I only have liability on my SlingShot. I think it's about $250/yr. As for buying a "real" plane, you should buy or build what you want to fly, not what has the cheapest insurance. There's a cost to owning everything, you just have to factor it all in and decide if you think it's worth it to you. Good luck, Rusty Un-real SlingShot ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Jun 05, 1998
Subject: RE: ROTAX QUESTION
>I have a 582 on my MKIII which just hit 100 hours so I decided to look >for carbon buildup. Looks nice and clean ( maybe too clean). plugs look >good. There has always been about 3/16" of slop when moving the tip of >the prop which I've always assumed was in the gearbox. But this time I >noticed it seems to come from inside the crankcase area like maybe the >rod as the piston moves through tdc. There is a slight tunk tunk sound >inside as I wiggle the prop tip. This is more noticeable with the front >cylinder, which has always run about 30 degrees hotter but within >limits. Am I paranoid? I would appreciate advice from those of you with >more experience. I have just a few hours on my 582, but noticed the 3/8 of prop slop you mention BEFORE I ever ran the engine. I also immediatly assumed it was gearbox, but then looked more closely and realized it was in the engine (mostly). I am guessing it is rod big-ends, and I am keeping track of it in case it changes over time. Yours sounds like it is about the same as mine. As far as the clunking noise, I couldnt say I've really noticed that (it could be there). There is a tool you can buy or build that uses a syringe attached to a threaded deal to install in the spark plug hole and measure the piston up-and-down play when the syringe is alternately pulling vacuum or pushing pressure. This gives you an idea of how much rod-bearing wear you have. I can't remember where I saw this, can anyone remember? jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Insurance
>I am contemplating building an FSII/503. Contemplating, that is, until >I talked to AVEMCO about liability insurance. The builder policy wasn't >too bad - two or three hundred annually. The project killer was the >liability policy after completion - $1500 to $1600 annually! I could >insure a real plane for that kind of money. Anyone else out there >received the same quote, or am I particularly lucky? > Unless being over 50 and over 1000 hours cut my rates (HAH!) you need to talk to someone else. AVEMCO has my MKIII covered for under $300 annually for liability of $100,000 each person, $100,000 prop. damage, and $300,000 each accident. Hull insurance, NOT in flight, is under $300 for $15,000 coverage. If I remember right, $1,500 a year was for all the above plus Hull In Flight on mine. Better ask around. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax Question
>I have a 582 on my MKIII which just hit 100 hours so I decided to look >for carbon buildup. Looks nice and clean ( maybe too clean). plugs look >good. There has always been about 3/16" of slop when moving the tip of >the prop which I've always assumed was in the gearbox. But this time I >noticed it seems to come from inside the crankcase area like maybe the >rod as the piston moves through tdc. There is a slight tunk tunk sound >inside as I wiggle the prop tip. This is more noticeable with the front >cylinder, which has always run about 30 degrees hotter but within >limits. Am I paranoid? I would appreciate advice from those of you with >more experience. > Terry Wells > Don't go by wiggling the prop tip. Pull off the magneto cover and rotate the magneto back and forth. Have the piston at other than TDC. If you have a bearing problem, there will be slop and noise. The piston should move without any slop when you turn the crank at all. When the piston is at TDC, there will be a little slop, but not much. If you are running a 100:1 oil mix, there may be more slop. I had a Rotax 277 that would run fine on 100:1 premix, but it rattled noticeably at that mix. It is possible that what you are hearing is gearbox noise. The gearbox seems to have a little slop. If in doubt after all this, get someone locally that everyone respects as knowledgable to look at it. In this instance, it doesn't have to be a Rotax person, this is Normal Mechanics 101, if your resident airport A&P can be persuaded to wander over and look and listen, OK. If it really seems bogus, take it apart and find out what's wrong. The Rotax water cooled series are easy to work on, just be cautious of the cross-over shaft for the water pump. If it ain't broke, don't fool with it. If you do decide it needs to come out, make sure you have the right tools, and you understand the procedure. In some books, there is a snap ring that is not apparent, and if you try to get it out with the snap ring still on, you will bless your engine with a lot of new parts before you're done... Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RVN?
> > I continued to learn to fly in another high density traffic area, RVN. > > Uhhh, which RVN? The only RVN I know of is Hawkins County, Tn. (and >that is the only one in the database of http://www.airnav.com ) > And since I am there a lot, maybe we missed each other? > rp > Richard: Maybe you missed the RVN I was referring to. I did two one year vacations in Republic of Vietnam. I good place to learn to fly if you can survive it. At times the air traffic was unbelievably heavy, expecially when troops were in heavy contact on the ground. There'd be everything there from LOHs to C-130 gun ships stacked in layers from the ground to 5,000 feet. Most were sightseers, which screwed up aircraft actually involved in the operation. Typical Americans. john ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Insurance
> Unless being over 50 and over 1000 hours cut my rates (HAH!) you >need to talk to someone else. AVEMCO has my MKIII covered for under $300 >annually for liability of $100,000 each person, $100,000 prop. damage, and >$300,000 each accident. Hull insurance, NOT in flight, is under $300 for >$15,000 coverage. > If I remember right, $1,500 a year was for all the above plus Hull >In Flight on mine. Better ask around. > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) Richard: That's what I have on mine for a little less on the liability, maybe hours in kind helps. I dhose not to get hull, on ground or in flight this year. Can't afford to pay for the airplane twice in a short period of time. It is a gamble, but I can rebuild if I have to, I've done it before. john ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RE: ROTAX QUESTION
>Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 13:26:17 -0500 >To: GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM >From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> >Subject: Re: RE: ROTAX QUESTION >In-Reply-To: <199806051650.LAA08275(at)www.intrig.com> > >>I have just a few hours on my 582, but noticed the 3/8 of prop slop you mention >>BEFORE I ever ran the engine. I also immediatly assumed it was gearbox, but >>then looked more closely and realized it was in the engine (mostly). I am >>guessing it is rod big-ends, and I am keeping track of it in case it changes >>over time. Yours sounds like it is about the same as mine. As far as the > > > >I am assuming you are measuring the 3/8 inch of slop at the blade tip???? If so, to me that is normal play in the gear box. I've got more than that in my 912, as equally so 582 and 447. IMHO if you have slop as you describe in the big end bearings or little end bearings, you got a serious problem and I doubt if your eng will live for more than a few minutes at operating speeds before it eats itself. Put the crank shaft locking bolt in the crank to hold it fast, then check your slop or play in the gear box. I bet it will be the same. If not, I wouldn't fly either eng, personnaly. > >john ________________________________________________________________________________
From: brian.p.fox(at)ac.com
Date: Jun 05, 1998
Subject: Intro
Hi All, I just wanted to introduce myself, I have just joined your list. I'm a private pilot and own 1/3 of a Cessna 150. A friend of mine has a Kolb and I see them at fly-ins all the time. I'm interested at some point in the future in building my own homebuilt but I'm undecided on a make/model. So I'll be eavesdropping on your list to learn as much as I can about Kolbs. >From what I've seen over the last couple of days of messages since I joined the list, you all sound like a great group, I'm looking forward to reading more. Brian ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Intro
On Fri, 5 Jun 1998 brian.p.fox(at)ac.com wrote: > Hi All, > I just wanted to introduce myself, I have just joined your list. I'm a Hi Brian, Welcome to this list/group. I've flown C-150s only a little bit. If you could strap on a Firestar you'd go ga-ga. Firestar performance, responsiveness, visibility, fun, etc will put a 2 week giggle in you. - Ben Ransom http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 1998
Subject: "Stephen Lanham" : Kolb Insurance
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
--------- Begin forwarded message ---------- From: "Stephen Lanham" <sdlanham(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb Insurance Date: Fri, 05 Jun 1998 08:53:07 PDT I am contemplating building an FSII/503. Contemplating, that is, until I talked to AVEMCO about liability insurance. The builder policy wasn't too bad - two or three hundred annually. The project killer was the liability policy after completion - $1500 to $1600 annually! I could insure a real plane for that kind of money. Anyone else out there received the same quote, or am I particularly lucky? Steve I have a Firestar II, with a 503. It is registred as an expermental. Thru Avemco it is costing me $102 for $100,000 pl/pd, no hull coverage. Bob Doebler --------- End forwarded message ---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: E-mail address
Date: Jun 05, 1998
To Frank Reyner in Sacramento: I didn't really want to burden the whole group with this, but see no alternative. Frank, I tried to e-mail you at the address on your last messages, but they wouldn't go through. I'm starting my vacation on Mon. June 29, and will probably be in Sacto that evening. Will you be free on Tues. the 30th ?? Let me know, I'll look forward to meeting you. To Jon Silvius in Yreka: Please send me a phone no. to reach you at. Looking forward to meeting you, too. 35 yrs ago, I had an experience in Weed that Sully at the Shell Stn. + the machine shop in Yreka bailed me out of. Good memories of both places. See you in 3 weeks. Or so. Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Rotax Question
>I have a 582 on my MKIII which just hit 100 hours so I decided to look >for carbon buildup. Looks nice and clean ( maybe too clean). plugs look >good. There has always been about 3/16" of slop when moving the tip of >the prop which I've always assumed was in the gearbox. But this time I >noticed it seems to come from inside the crankcase area like maybe the >rod as the piston moves through tdc. There is a slight tunk tunk sound >inside as I wiggle the prop tip. This is more noticeable with the front >cylinder, which has always run about 30 degrees hotter but within >limits. Am I paranoid? I would appreciate advice from those of you with >more experience. > Terry Wells >- I don't know about the tunk tunk sound but if you can imagine the inside of your engine at the crankshaft for a moment. When the crank is at the bottom there is a spot where there is not much vertical movement as the piston changes from going down to going up but the crank is still going around.This is probably the play you feel.This few degrees will probably be translated as the play at the prop tip.This my opinion and if I happen to be wrong please don't haunt me. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net>
Subject: Re: Intro
brian.p.fox(at)ac.com wrote: > > Hi All, > I just wanted to introduce myself, I have just joined your list. I'm a > private pilot and own 1/3 of a Cessna 150. A friend of mine has a Kolb and > I see them at fly-ins all the time. I'm interested at some point in the > future in building my own homebuilt but I'm undecided on a make/model. So > I'll be eavesdropping on your list to learn as much as I can about Kolbs. > > >From what I've seen over the last couple of days of messages since I joined > the list, you all sound like a great group, I'm looking forward to reading > more. > > Brian > > - Welcome to the group Brian, I joined only a month ago or less. I got my Private some years ago in a 150 - a nice little plane - but now I have a "littler" one - a Mk III that I am in the process of buying. I am sure that you will enjoy the group - I have learned a lot in a short time and the more we know the safer we are! I also have a Lazair/Pioneers that I am having a plane-builder recover for me. I gave him the plane, provided he lets me fly it! Gerald ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: Intro
Date: Jun 05, 1998
>From what I've seen over the last couple of days of messages since I joined >the list, you all sound like a great group, I'm looking forward to reading >more. Welcome Brian, Is a third of a C-150 a C-50? You'll like the Kolb list. I'm also on the RV list, but I delete 90% of their messages, while reading 99% of Kolb's. BTW- I bet if you told us where you were at, someone could give you an up-close tour of a Kolb. Russell Duffy Navarre, FL SlingShot SS-003, N8754K RV-8A (building) rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)tcac.net>
Subject: sticky wicket
Date: Jun 05, 1998
To Bill Tuton You said >... worked over the ring with emery cloth and steel wool, polished the devil out of the fuselage tube with various steel wool grades, and have slathered ...... I don't have any good suggestion to fit the ring to the tube, but I do hope you meant that you had polished the tube with aluminum wool, NOT steel wool. applying steel wool to aluminum is a big NO NO!! This leads to rather serious corrosion. Microscopic iron particles become imbedded in the aluminum and cause galvanic or dissimilar metals corrosion that is very hard if not impossible to stop and or correct. The same goes for emery paper or crocus cloth. Iron oxide can be imbedded in the base aluminum setting you up for corrosion. Tom 124 King Dome Road Our name is King, our house is a Dome, and it's OUR road! Tom 124 King Dome Road Our name is King, our house is a Dome, and it's OUR road!
To Bill Tuton
You said
 
>... worked over the ring with emery cloth and steel wool, polished the devil out of the fuselage tube with various steel wool grades, and have slathered ......
 
I don't have any good suggestion to fit the ring to the tube, but I do hope you meant that you had polished the tube with aluminum wool, NOT steel wool.
 
applying steel wool to aluminum is a big NO NO!!  This leads to rather serious corrosion.  Microscopic iron particles become imbedded in the aluminum and cause galvanic or dissimilar metals corrosion that is very hard if not impossible to stop and or correct.
The same goes for emery paper or crocus cloth.  Iron oxide can be imbedded in the base aluminum setting you up for corrosion.
 
Tom
 
124 King Dome Road
Our name is King, our house is a Dome, and it's OUR road!
 
Tom
 
124 King Dome Road
Our name is King, our house is a Dome, and it's OUR road!
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 1998
From: John <redhill(at)rose.net>
Subject: Operating & Ownership Costs
Some of you have been flying for quite a long time. Do any of you have any good records of the operation cost of an ultralight using a perhaps a Rotax 503? I'm interested in total costs including the purchase and sell of the ultralight, maintenance, fuel, hanger expense, and depreciation included. Include your annual hours used as this will lower your cost if you are a high user. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Intro
Brian, Welcome to the Kolb list. I got my PPSEL in a 150. When I started flying the 150 I had a Quicksilver Sprint and I thaought that being able to rent a 150 was a nice addition. But once I got a Firestar, I had little interest in the 150. Now that I have Firestar II, I have no need at all for the 150. John Jung Original Firestar For Sale http:/www.execpc.com/~jrjung/ Firestar II N6163J 6 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.com>
Subject: starter on the Firestar
Date: Jun 06, 1998
During my long winter wait, I installed a starter, battery, extra tank, radio (aircraft and CB) fuel guage on one of the tanks and a fuel pump. All of this added quite a bit to my weight, but since I have always not been satisfied with hanging around the field it is worth it. I needed to lose a few pounds of my personal ballast anyway. ;-) The starter that I installed is the one that allows you to keep your pull starter.( I once attempted to restart with a pull starter and was totally unable due to the leverage problem.) I went through the top of the tanks with my pickup tubes, leaving about 1/2 to 3/4 clearance from the bottom so that I wouldn't have trouble with the dregs at the bottom of the tank. I ran these hoses to a fuel selector at the side of the seat.( I have eliminated my second seat option, so I used the area that the passengers foot would have gone for the gages and necessary switches.) The hose then goes to the fuel pump, then to a pressure regulator, then to the mikuni fuel pump and then to the carb. The fuel pump is switchable, but I have left it on so far. There is no squeeze bulb, since the fuel pump takes it to 3 1/2 lbs anyway. ( the pressure reg. won't allow more.) I have better than 13 hours on the system so far and no trouble yet. I have also made some streamlined struts for for the plane.. Yesterday we finally got some decent weather, that actually coincided with time off work. ( the weather in the Pac Northwest has really sucked this year) I have been wanting to try out the struts to see if they really do anything. I flew for two hours straight, (112 miles according to GPS) burning 5 1/2 gal. My GPS shows a speed of 66 MPH at 5500 rpms. This was of course at 6000 feet, and staying as straight and level as possibile. I did not fly at that altitude all the time, just long enough for testing. Today I flew over the Cascades to Medford Oregon, to a EAA fly in. Straight line of 58 miles. I made the flight in 45 minutes, climbing to 7500 feet. It is a very busy comercial airport and traffic was stacked up waiting as many as three deep to land. I watched and listened for a bit outside the airspace and finally decided that it was no place for a cute little UL and returned home. I stayed on the same tank of gas intending to change at 1.5 hours as I did the day before. (still had 1 gal at that time the day before) I didn't correctly figure the amount of increase burn due to two climbs to 7000 feet, and at one hour and 13 minutes I started losing power. I reached for the fuel selector, changed it but the motor died anyway. Now I'm at 6000 feet, (2000 agl) and it is really quiet except for the cussin. Landing is no problem there just happens to be the best spot for landing that I have been over all day. I check my instruments to see what is happening with the plane and son of a gun I'm damn near a stall! I shoved the stick sharply forward and brought the air speed up to 60. I had, I thought, shoved the stick forward when the motor quit as a reflex. ( I've practiced this several times so that I would be prepared and it still damn near caught me off guard) This of course all takes place in very little time, but it was still almost too long. OK now I've got over the immediate danger of a stall, so I hit the starter. Nothing- I turn it all the way off and try again- nothing. I can't figure what is wrong, but am beginning to be reconciled with finding a stump free zone to put it down in. I establish my glide and then I get time to look down at the panel. I had managed to turn off the master switch in my attempt to change tanks with a glove on. Hope once again springs forth as I turn the switch. Prop spins like crazy and it tries to go. I look again and find that the throttle is still wide open!! throttle closed, choke on- the lovely thing lives again, and possibile disaster is foiled. I had considered trying a restart earlier, but had rejected it due to unknown landing conditions. The interesting part in retrospect is that the makuni by itself wouldn't pick up enough gas to maintain the engine once the rpms dropped. (this repeats the finding that I made in the desert last year. I shut off the gas to see if there would be any warning if I ran out of gas. There wasn't any, it just started to lose rpms and once the reduction was noticable it was too late.)The master switch only controls my instruments and fuel pump. The kill switch is not affected. Also the wind pushing against the prop allows it to spin pleasantly faster. While I do not intend to repeat the experiment willingly I have developed confidence in my system, and definately feel that the starter is worth the weight that it adds. I will do my climbs back to altitude on a fresh tank of gas and switch back again if maximum distance is required. Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Operating & Ownership Costs
John, I have owned 5 different ultralights over the last 10 years, so I can give you some ideas. Hanger cost can be the largest single item. Some people spend as much as $120 per month for a hanger space. $60 to $70 is typical around my area (SE Wisconsin). Also, some Kolb owners avoid hager costs entirely, by trailering their plane home to their garage. Depreciation can also be expensive depending on the type of plane an how new it is when you get it. One of the largest depreciations is for a new plane that you build. It can be difficult to sell it for what it costs to build, even when it is still new. Once past the initial depreciation, Kolbs depreciated slowly. I figure about $4 per hour for gas and oil and I average about 40 hours per year. So that's not very expensive. Normal maintenance is not inexpensive if you do your own work, but if you damage the plane or fail to take care of the engine, it can get really expensive. Especialy if you don't don't do your own repairs. Because of liability, it can be difficult to find anyone to repair your ultralight at all, much less inexpensively. Insurance is the lowest cost for an ultralight, because it hasn't been available (unless the ultralight was 100% legal). So don't fly a plane that you can't afford to lose. Recent news is that insurance is now available for fat ultralights. I don't know the costs. As you can see, costs can really vary. But by checking hanger costs in your area, you will have a good idea. John Jung Original Firestar For Sale http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/ Firestar II N6163J 6 hrs > >John wrote: > > Some of you have been flying for quite a long time. Do any of you have > any good records of the operation cost of an ultralight using a perhaps > a Rotax 503? I'm interested in total costs including the purchase and > sell of the ultralight, maintenance, fuel, hanger expense, and > depreciation included. Include your annual hours used as this will lower > your cost if you are a high user. > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: faulty address
Date: Jun 06, 1998
I seem to have somehow managed to muddle my email address. Perhaps it a non event, but just in case the correct address is lcottrel(at)kfalls.net Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 1998
Subject: Re: legal Forces
From: pl4coop(at)juno.com (robert w. cooper)
writes: >Bob > >Who do you have your ins. with ? On my M/III I used Nation Air >insurance agency >in Dallas ,Tx. with the same liability as you . and mine is higher >I may have to think about changeing , > >RICK LIBERSAT >writes: >>Hi Gang - >> >>Here in the east, we recently had an airport owner take the position >>that the ultralight could stay. However, all aircraft based at the >>field, had to carry $500,000.00 liability insurance. Have you called > >>an insurance company requesting that much liability ? >>I think you will find that the best amount you can find is >$50,000.00. >> However, with an N number the aircraft will be insured as a >>homebuilt. My Pazmany PL-4A is insured at $500,000.00 an annual >cost >>of $187.00. I have added aircraft damage - non-flight at $144.00 - >>total $331.00. - >> >>In any event the ultralights relocated to another friendlier >airfield. >> Hi Rick - I have the Pazmany insured with AVEMCO, I chatted with a Kim Skipper at AVEMCO about UL insurance, and yes they will insure UL's. However, there are stipulations, many options., and coverages. I was surprised to find lability coverage is limited to only $50,000.00, I suggest that you call Kim @ AVEMCO (1-800-638-8440) so that you get the information direct, and can ask your many questions.>>Also, note as a member of EAA Chapter 216, I receive a 10% discount. Therefore, you might ask if UL insurance is discounted if an EAA Chapter member. Please remember my Pazmany is a N-numbered single place homebuilt. 2 place aircraft will carry a higher fee. I added a non-moving hull coverage - which was not too costly. - See May 98 "Sport Aviation" - page 66 for more info. Sorry to be so slow - we have been traveling for several days - and takes a while to read all the interesting info concerning Kolbs. >>Bob Cooper >>Newfield, NJ >> >> >> >> >>writes: >>>>Rod, >>>> The two big concerns about ultralights mixing with general >>>aviation >>>>are: the slow speed and lack of pilot trainning. If you have a >>pilots >>>>licience, one solved. If you fly a Firstar the second is solved. >>Even >>>a >>>>377 Firstar can fly 70 mph in the pattern, which is as fast as the >>>>pattern speed for a Cessna 150. In Wisconsin we have over 150 >public >>>>airports. In 9 years of flying ultralights, I have never been told >>>that >>>>I wasn't welcome. The biggest reason that ultralighters (that I am >>>aware >>> >>>I haven't been that lucky. I went out of my way to ask my local Fed > >>>funded >>>airport about any special patterns, etc. This was 3 months before I > >>>even >>>finished construction. He not only uninvited me, he flatly told me >>>ultralights were not allowed. His policy is illegal, and the FAA >has >>>verified that to me and to him. But there is so much "City Hall >BS", >>>and the FAA is busy with other things, that the policy still stands >>>there. I fly there on wknds when mr slick-boy-airport-manager is >not >>>around, and have become friends with the GA pilots. >>> >>>I think that in general, you are bound to find airport access >>problems >>>flying an ultralight. This may be rare, but indeed a hassle, even >if >> >>>your >>>plane is FAR103 legal. If you are not FAR103 legal, you may be >>>required >>>to show proof of insurance -- at least at your homebase airport. >>This >>>is >>>what truely puts you in a legal predicament. (I'm reluctant to push > >>>for >>>FAR103 rights at my local airport, cuz when they are forced to allow > >>>me >>>legitimate access, they will also force me to buy insurance, which i > >>>can't legally do.) If you register it Experimental, they may want >to >> >>>sneer at you, but will change their tune the minute they see the >>>N-number. >>> >>>-Ben Ransom >>>- >>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Operating & Ownership Costs
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Jun 06, 1998
John, Over the last 11 years of building and operating my Original FireStar, here are the numbers: Cost of the kitplane w/377 Rotax $4995.00 (in 1986) Trailer: $300.00 Shipping and Tools: $442.41 Instruments: $400.00 ============ Subtotal $6137.41 Hanger: $0.00 (hanger in garage) Annual Maintenance: $64.55 ($710.00 total which includes two top ends one w/new pistons and rings, filters, sparkplugs, gearbox oil, etc.) Gas and Oil: $4.91/hr ($1.82 per gal at 2.7gal/hr) I use an expensive synthetic oil now. The first 200 hours was using mineral oil. I have 379 hours logged, so that would equate to $22.98 per hour ($8708.30) counting everything and $6.78 per hour without counting the cost of the plane. My FireStar is worth about $7000.00 today. Since I bought when prices were low, I've been flying cheap. Today's prices would be considerably more. I have not included gas for transporting my ultralight to the field (6 miles), insurance costs, and my time in building the kit. Flying isn't cheap, but what else can you fly for $6.78 per hour? Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar >Some of you have been flying for quite a long time. Do any of you >have any good records of the operation cost of an ultralight using a >perhaps a Rotax 503? I'm interested in total costs including the purchase and >sell of the ultralight, maintenance, fuel, hanger expense, and >depreciation included. Include your annual hours used as this will >lower your cost if you are a high user. >- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: starter on the Firestar
Date: Jun 06, 1998
"The lovely thing lives again." I love that line. I'll bet you loved the feeling right then. A great story --- highly entertaining, and very educational as well. I, for one, would really enjoy seeing many more like that on this group. Where in the Northwest do you live ?? Kind of sounds like the Grant's Pass area, from what you're saying. Big Lar. ---------- > From: Larry & Karen Cottrel <lcottrel(at)kfalls.com> > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: starter on the Firestar > Date: Saturday, June 06, 1998 5:37 PM > > During my long winter wait, I installed a starter, battery, extra tank, > radio (aircraft and CB) fuel guage on one of the tanks and a fuel pump. All > of this added quite a bit to my weight, but since I have always not been > satisfied with hanging around the field it is worth it. I needed to lose a > few pounds of my personal ballast anyway. ;-) The starter that I installed > is the one that allows you to keep your pull starter.( I once attempted to > restart with a pull starter and was totally unable due to the leverage > problem.) I went through the top of the tanks with my pickup tubes, leaving > about 1/2 to 3/4 clearance from the bottom so that I wouldn't have trouble > with the dregs at the bottom of the tank. I ran these hoses to a fuel > selector at the side of the seat.( I have eliminated my second seat option, > so I used the area that the passengers foot would have gone for the gages > and necessary switches.) The hose then goes to the fuel pump, then to a > pressure regulator, then to the mikuni fuel pump and then to the carb. The > fuel pump is switchable, but I have left it on so far. There is no squeeze > bulb, since the fuel pump takes it to 3 1/2 lbs anyway. ( the pressure reg. > won't allow more.) I have better than 13 hours on the system so far and no > trouble yet. I have also made some streamlined struts for for the plane.. > Yesterday we finally got some decent weather, that actually coincided > with time off work. ( the weather in the Pac Northwest has really sucked > this year) I have been wanting to try out the struts to see if they really > do anything. I flew for two hours straight, (112 miles according to GPS) > burning 5 1/2 gal. My GPS shows a speed of 66 MPH at 5500 rpms. This was of > course at 6000 feet, and staying as straight and level as possibile. I did > not fly at that altitude all the time, just long enough for testing. > Today I flew over the Cascades to Medford Oregon, to a EAA fly in. > Straight line of 58 miles. I made the flight in 45 minutes, climbing to > 7500 feet. It is a very busy comercial airport and traffic was stacked up > waiting as many as three deep to land. I watched and listened for a bit > outside the airspace and finally decided that it was no place for a cute > little UL and returned home. I stayed on the same tank of gas intending to > change at 1.5 hours as I did the day before. (still had 1 gal at that time > the day before) I didn't correctly figure the amount of increase burn due > to two climbs to 7000 feet, and at one hour and 13 minutes I started losing > power. I reached for the fuel selector, changed it but the motor died > anyway. Now I'm at 6000 feet, (2000 agl) and it is really quiet except for > the cussin. Landing is no problem there just happens to be the best spot > for landing that I have been over all day. I check my instruments to see > what is happening with the plane and son of a gun I'm damn near a stall! I > shoved the stick sharply forward and brought the air speed up to 60. I had, > I thought, shoved the stick forward when the motor quit as a reflex. ( I've > practiced this several times so that I would be prepared and it still damn > near caught me off guard) This of course all takes place in very little > time, but it was still almost too long. OK now I've got over the immediate > danger of a stall, so I hit the starter. Nothing- I turn it all the way off > and try again- nothing. I can't figure what is wrong, but am beginning to > be reconciled with finding a stump free zone to put it down in. I establish > my glide and then I get time to look down at the panel. I had managed to > turn off the master switch in my attempt to change tanks with a glove on. > Hope once again springs forth as I turn the switch. Prop spins like crazy > and it tries to go. I look again and find that the throttle is still wide > open!! throttle closed, choke on- the lovely thing lives again, and > possibile disaster is foiled. I had considered trying a restart earlier, > but had rejected it due to unknown landing conditions. > The interesting part in retrospect is that the makuni by itself > wouldn't pick up enough gas to maintain the engine once the rpms dropped. > (this repeats the finding that I made in the desert last year. I shut off > the gas to see if there would be any warning if I ran out of gas. There > wasn't any, it just started to lose rpms and once the reduction was > noticable it was too late.)The master switch only controls my instruments > and fuel pump. The kill switch is not affected. Also the wind pushing > against the prop allows it to spin pleasantly faster. While I do not intend > to repeat the experiment willingly I have developed confidence in my > system, and definately feel that the starter is worth the weight that it > adds. I will do my climbs back to altitude on a fresh tank of gas and > switch back again if maximum distance is required. > > Larry > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: ANR headsets?
Date: Jun 06, 1998
Hi all, Has anyone ever tried an ANR type headset on one of our Rotax screamers? In particular, I noticed that there was a company that offers a kit to make your standard headset into an ANR unit for $155. They have a web page at: http://www2.eos.net/morrism/ A question for Will Uribe: They claim the reduction range for the ANR portion is from 20 to 600 hz. Does that seem inline with our primary noise range? It doesn't seem like it to me. (for those who don't know, Will does this stuff for a living). Thanks, Russell Duffy SlingShot SS-003, N8754K RV-8A (rotary powered) rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: Re: ANR headsets?
Date: Jun 06, 1998
Hi Russell, headset listed in Aircraft Spruce, total cost of $140.00(possibily gone up since this spring) The only addition that I should have done is the gel sealed earpieces. I have since gotten some and it is very pleasant, no ringing at all even after a two hour flight. I have no trouble hearing towers or other planes or they me. Larry ---------- > From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pen.net> > To: Kolb list > Subject: ANR headsets? > Date: Saturday, June 06, 1998 8:41 PM > > Hi all, > > Has anyone ever tried an ANR type headset on one of our Rotax screamers? In > particular, I noticed that there was a company that offers a kit to make your > standard headset into an ANR unit for $155. They have a web page at: > http://www2.eos.net/morrism/ > > A question for Will Uribe: They claim the reduction range for the ANR portion > is from 20 to 600 hz. Does that seem inline with our primary noise range? It > doesn't seem like it to me. (for those who don't know, Will does this stuff for > a living). > > Thanks, > > Russell Duffy > SlingShot SS-003, N8754K > RV-8A (rotary powered) > rad(at)pen.net > http://www.pen.net/~rad/ > > > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: Struts
Date: Jun 06, 1998
Hi Ron, Glad that you liked the story, I guess that I did kinda lead you on about the struts. Yes I do think that they do improve cruise and distance a lot. I wish that I had the real things, but I just haven't had the spare money to spend on them. I have 19 hours on these and they do just fine. I leave mine on the plane and just fold them back and fasten them together with a bungie cord and they rest on the prop when it is in the trailer. I have made every attempt to clean the plane up as much as I can, this is definately a step in the right direction. I have toyed with the idea of putting wheel pants on but I have to come up with a solution to the Bull shit that litters my runway. I'm sure that 5 pounds or so in just one wheel pant will make you fly funny;-) I watched the guy that owns the property and flies a Humming bird??( he sits in the open in a sling,) hit a particular juicy one on takeoff this morning. I tell you it is a real sight to see a fifteen foot high rooster, or is it a bulls tail in the air behind his airplane. The slight green tinge of the sun attempting to shine through it. any way the struts are still available at $25.00. The address is 10440 Simpson Canyon rd, Klamath Falls,Or.97601 If you don't think that they do anything to improve performance I'll refund the $20. Five is for shipping. You should attempt to make the trip to the Alvord Desert this year. The guys from Boise have a flyin there in Sept. It is a great place to fly. The Steens Mountain is there for diversion, but the nice part is a flat lake bed that is 5 miles wide and 11 miles long. You can do all the dead stick landing that you desire. Thanks for the invite, not sure what is happening then but would like the directions anyway. Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: landings- wheel bearings
Date: Jun 07, 1998
There has been much talk in the recent past regarding worn out wheel bearings. I've been wondering why there have been so many failures. I make the wheels a part of my preflight as it should be and really haven't noticed any problem. Then in our recent EAA newsletter my mentor and friend did a article on "Best landings". He was thinking about how he could improve his landings. He found a article by Robert T Smith, (Air Progress, March 1996) entitled "Touchdown". He makes a interesting point saying" unknown to most passengers and many pilots the best landing is not a greaser. In any airplane, Cub or jetliner, the best landing is one made at the slowest possible speed". While it looks and feels better to "grease" it on the ground, the tire wear is increased, The wheel spin up loads and the landing ground roll are increased by this method. Think about it, here we are with two wheel barrow tires hanging out there at zero speed, then plunk! they hit the runway doing 50 or 60 mph. Rubber grinds off and the wheel bearing loads are fierce as the wheel and tire come up to the speed of the airplane. Wheel and tire wear go up at the square of the speed. Thus, a small increase in speed will result in a large increase in wheel and tire wear. The wheels and gear can handle a short drop a lot better than they can the high speed spin up. I have been working on my landings a bit in the last few days. It has been a lot on my mind since I recently soloed in a 150. I had been a bit disappointed with my landings in the Cessna. I was dropping it in rather than greasing the landings. My instructor kept saying that the landing were fine, but I didn't want any drop. The last time that I went out I just did landings. I did grease one in and the tires did the loud churp that signified peeling rubber. I also had a heck of a time slowing enough to make my turn out to the exit. So I managed to take some rubber off his tires and pad off the brake shoes. When I came in to land in the Firestar both times this last weekend, touch down was with the stick buried as far back as it would go and I had to use power to get to my trailer. The roll out was less than 100 feet. Basically all that it intails is to come in to your approach at a speed that is 10 to 15 mph faster than your stall. When you get to a foot or so above the ground, chop the throttle and try to keep it from touching the ground. Good flying Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Subject: Re: landings- wheel bearings
From: pl4coop(at)juno.com (robert w. cooper)
writes: >There has been much talk in the recent past regarding worn out wheel >bearings. I've been wondering why there have been so many failures. I >make >the wheels a part of my preflight as it should be and really haven't >noticed any problem. Then in our recent EAA newsletter my mentor and >friend >did a article on "Best landings". He was thinking about how he could >improve his landings. He found a article by Robert T Smith, (Air >Progress, >March 1996) entitled "Touchdown". He makes a interesting point saying" >unknown to most passengers and many pilots the best landing is not a >greaser. In any airplane, Cub or jetliner, the best landing is one >made at >the slowest possible speed". While it looks and feels better to >"grease" it >on the ground, the tire wear is increased, The wheel spin up loads and >the >landing ground roll are increased by this method. Think about it, here >we >are with two wheel barrow tires hanging out there at zero speed, then >plunk! they hit the runway doing 50 or 60 mph. Rubber grinds off and >the >wheel bearing loads are fierce as the wheel and tire come up to the >speed >of the airplane. Wheel and tire wear go up at the square of the speed. >Thus, a small increase in speed will result in a large increase in >wheel >and tire wear. The wheels and gear can handle a short drop a lot >better >than they can the high speed spin up. > > I have been working on my landings a bit in the last few days. It >has >been a lot on my mind since I recently soloed in a 150. I had been a >bit >disappointed with my landings in the Cessna. I was dropping it in >rather >than greasing the landings. My instructor kept saying that the landing >were >fine, but I didn't want any drop. The last time that I went out I just >did >landings. I did grease one in and the tires did the loud churp that >signified peeling rubber. I also had a heck of a time slowing enough >to >make my turn out to the exit. So I managed to take some rubber off his >tires and pad off the brake shoes. When I came in to land in the >Firestar >both times this last weekend, touch down was with the stick buried as >far >back as it would go and I had to use power to get to my trailer. The >roll >out was less than 100 feet. Basically all that it intails is to come >in to >your approach at a speed that is 10 to 15 mph faster than your stall. >When >you get to a foot or so above the ground, chop the throttle and try to >keep >it from touching the ground. > >Good flying >Larry > >Hi Larry - My story is to ALWAYS keep the speed up on final - then when you have it made think about the landing. My old instructor said - keep it coming - keep it coming - keep it coming. You will find 10 years from now - you will always be taking about landings. Bob Cooper - Pazmany PL-4A - kolb wantabe Newfield, NJ > > > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 1998
From: Guy Tetreault <samten(at)cam.org>
Subject: Spring Loaded chute
Hi All, In my search for the ultimate, inexpensive, used, forgiving, first ultralight I have more than once come accross a spring loaded parachute made by Niagara (Niagra?). Infallably these were past their repack date. It seems a shame to throw the things away though and I would like to know if anyone on the list has any experience at either repacking or having someone who has the expertise repack this type of unit. I like the sheer simplicity of the unit. It most definitely would not be as fast as a rocket powered opening system but I assume should work quite well nonetheless. Thoughts on this anyone? Guy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mlily(at)webtv.net (MarLayne Boller)
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Subject: mikuni carb
i have a kolb ultra-star with UL11-02 with a VM-Mikuni carburetor. it will not idle and i can not increase rpm without useing the choke. Seems to be starving for fuel.I replaced all fuel lines, pulse line, fuel filter, and spark plugs. I culd sure use some help. Is there a kit out there for this carb. CLYDE ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: No 618 for my SS
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Hi again, The 503 to 618 conversion for my SlingShot isn't going to happen. I called the deal off after thinking more about the time and expense that it would require. The RV-8A project is my top priority now, and I just can't justify spending that much money on another 2-cycle engine for the SS. The 503 is running well, and will just have to do. The current plan is to keep the SS until the RV needs to take over the hanger space. That could be a year or more from now. Sorry to get everyone worked up over nothing, especially those who were hoping for an inexpensive 503. BTW- there's some tale of a fly-in at Geneva, AL on the 20th. If the weather's good, I plan to be there. Russell Duffy SlingShot SS-003, N8754K RV-8A waiting for wings rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: matic(at)wonet.com.pl
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Subject: Bombardier Rotax Engines
Hey, Do anybody knows, who in Austria sells Bombardier Rotax engines ? I have just visited their home page, but there is no information about the dealers. Thanks for any information. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Subject: lubricated hinges
I just finished my annual inspection and when I built my Firestar 2 I made the hinges on all the control surfaces so I could remove the pins for cleaning and lubricating. As part of the annual, I greased all the hinges and to me the pressures now feel better when flying. The ailerons really do seem to have a bit less pressure. The pins in the hinges were definitely dry when I removed them. Just a FYI. tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Subject: third class medical
Someone at the airport told me today that a 3rd class medical is now good for three years, anybody know if this is true? tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: third class medical
Date: Jun 07, 1998
>Someone at the airport told me today that a 3rd class medical is now good for >three years, anybody know if this is true? >tim If you're under 40 when you get the physical, it's good for 3 years. If you're 40 or over, you don't get the third year, but you do get the finger (so I hear- I'm 37). My last 3rd class was about a year ago, and it's good for 3 years, but the actual certificate still says 2 years. Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: sticky wicket
>To Bill Tuton >You said > >>... worked over the ring with emery cloth and steel wool, polished the devil out of the fuselage tube with various steel wool grades, and have slathered ..... I never had that tight a fit.Check that there is no welding distortion in the ring.Check that the ring and tube are round and not slightly oval.You can probably just heat the ring with a propane torch to slip it on.You do not need it red hot.I don't think you do not need to take this ring off to cover the tail,at least I never have.The stab covers quite easily on the boom tube. If you are worried about the last posting about microscopic steel in the tube you can probably cut off the last 2 inches of the boom tube without any serious detrimental effect.To cover my butt please ask Dennis about the last bit of advice. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WVarnes(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Subject: Re: starter on the Firestar
Larry Cottrell You wrote: " I had managed to turn off the master switch in my attempt to change tanks with a glove on." Liked your report on getting an air start with your new starter setup. As for inadvertenantly hitting the switch killing the engine, I was concerned about that happening on my Original FireStar. It's just a small toggle switch that could easily be flipped to the off position whilst moving charts, etc. around in the cockpit. Not wanting to be forced down for such a simple problem, my buddy Ken Mancus, a KXP builder, designed a small shield to protect the switch. It is basically a small rectanglular aluminum cup or channel that requires you to actually make an effort to put your finger down into it in order to flip the switch. I've heard somewhere that you could use a small spray paint cap (metal type). Drill a hole in the bottom and install the switch down through it (sort of using the cap as a washer). Works for me. Bill Varnes Original FireStar Audubon, NJ ________________________________________________________________________________ (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with ESMTP
From: "merle hargis" <merlepilar(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: starter on the Firestar
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Glad you came out ok. It is good to here from others of situations like this. Thanks for your tale. Merle from Orlando ---------- > From: Larry & Karen Cottrel <lcottrel(at)kfalls.com> > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: starter on the Firestar > Date: Saturday, June 06, 1998 8:37 PM > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Subject: Re: Rotax experience
> >What, in your opinion is the > >most common cause of seizure on these engines and can anything be done in > >the maintainance or preflight procedures to avoid them. > The biggest cause of non-seize engine failures is poor systems > design, maintainance, and preflight. > If you are not used to 2 strokes, get some one that is to help you > get yours running right, and learn why it does what it does. > If you don't want to do that, don't get one. > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) Exactly right.....two stroke engines do not suffer fools gladly....you must know why they work and how to keep them working for you. JB J. Baker ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Spring Loaded chute
>Hi All, > In my search for the ultimate, inexpensive, used, forgiving, first >ultralight I have more than once come accross a spring loaded parachute >made by Niagara (Niagra?). Infallably these were past their repack date. >It seems a shame to throw the things away though and I would like to >know if anyone on the list has any experience at either repacking or >having someone who has the expertise repack this type of unit. I like >the sheer simplicity of the unit. It most definitely would not be as >fast as a rocket powered opening system but I assume should work quite >well nonetheless. Thoughts on this anyone? > Guy >- I like the Niagras myself.I have the last Niagra ever produced I just happened to be in the shop as they were closing the doors.I will hunt up the instructions and scan them for you.Repacking is no problem if you were to take it to any sport parachuting place and get one of the riggers to do it. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Engine Quiz, Remember that one?
Hi everybody, You may remember this last March I posted about Engine Problems/Quiz. I described my misbehaving engine, where it would quit when coming back to idle but otherwise performed fine -- plenty of power and thorough visual inspection to cylinders showed no signs of pre-seizure. There's a bigger story about all the time that has gone by since that post. (Basically I've been grounded big time, recently had surgery for a chronic ear problem, but hope to be flying again before too long.) Back to the engine. I knew I most likely had an air leak (not me, the engine ;). I came up with an easy method to pressurize the crankcase to find the leak. Actually my first effort at this was an embarrassing exercise in futility, after which Rusty told me about the $90 tool from LEAF made just for this purpose. But being the innovative cheapskate I am, i pressed on with version 2 of my home-made method. I first method almost worked, so I felt even more like keeping my $90. If you care to read really long emails, that method is below, but first let me tell you what was wrong with my engine. I found air leaks at the exhaust ports on the inside of the cooling shroud, i.e. right at the cylinder-first gasket seal. This was surprising cuz these were new gaskets and the exh manifold (and everything else) was defiantly torqued properly. I had just done a full cylinder/piston removal and cleaning 15 hours previously, including new gaskets, and yes, retorque check 4 engine hours later. Now, after finding the leak, I went back to the Rotax diagrams to make sure I hadn't goofed the top-end job in one gasket each side of the shroud or something else -- all was fine. Seeing this makes me think it likely there are hundreds of Rotaxes out there with leaks on the exhaust manifold, and maybe the intake. All signs were that I put mine together correctly, and the engine ran fine except when coming back to idle, yet the leak was pretty significant. It always did strike me as dumb design to have the stamped shroud sandwiched in the manifold to cylinder assembly. I'm ordering another set of gaskets and will re-do, this time also adding gasket sealer on the exh side. Do any of you normally use gasket sealer here? I've always had a slightly raised EGT on the back cylinder and now believe this problem has been there since new, to some extent. BTW, I also found a teeny tiny leak in the intake manifold casting itself (not the gasket). Aircraft quality? NAW, just Vehicle quality. Crankcase leak test on the cheap: Cut out some thin (.020-.060) AL pieces the size of each exhaust manifold. Put these between outer gaskets and manifold itself using gasket sealer. This seals off the exh port. For intake side you could do same thing, altho I did something slightly more complicated, forgetting that i still had to plug the pulse pump line. Take an old inner tube (i used a bike inner tube) and cut off the fill nozzle. With some rubber glue, press this nozzle into a 2' piece of fuel hose -- you'll get it in there ~1" which is good enf with the glue, but you can hose clamp as well. Clamp the other end of the fuel hose to the pulse pump port. Now the engine is sealed with a 1-way nozzle. Make sure you don't blast it with air pressure (visions of seals popping out of a perfectly good engine). I let practically all the air out of my compressor and shut it off -- the regulator switch on it was not definite at such a low pressure as 5psi. I manually ran the compressor or leaked air out to get just 5psi. I verified this pressure by putting the compressor hose to my airplane tires so they would fill from say 4 to 5psi but no more, while holding the hose there for several seconds. (I used a regular ol tire pressure gauge for this.) Then, I put the 5psi compressor hose on the bike tube nozzle from the pulse port and Viola, that's it. Of course I can only measure pressure, not vacuum, but I'm not sure vacuum would ever be useful anyway. I rechecked my compressor tank psi as necessary between looking for leaks at different areas. Look for leaks using soap-water sprayed where-ever. I was first suspicious of the PTO crank-end seal cuz it was my PTO cylinder that showed high EGT at idle (800 compared to <400 on Mag-end cylinder). I considered giving up without finding a significant leak, but decided to take off the top cylinder shroud to check for leaks at the head gasket. This removed, soap-water on the exhaust port *inside* the shroud area, and it fizzed like a rabid dog. Bingo! -Ben Ransom PS: Don't y'all come after me for big prize money on the Quiz. :-) I know there were some suggestions that were close. I'm sure glad I don't have to do a complete tear-down for crank seals. If I can't get exh manifold gaskets right you can imagine what I'd do to a full rebuild! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Subject: Re: Bombardier Rotax Engines
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
> >Hey, > >Do anybody knows, who in Austria sells Bombardier >Rotax engines ?.... De Shadow do! Seriously, they shouldn't be too hard to find, being a VERY large company based in Austria. Try the Vienna yellow pages :-) If you are looking for a dealer state-side, try: Leaf (Leading Edge AirFoils) Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Green Sky Adventures California Power Systems (CPS) Links to these websites (except Green Sky) are on either of the pages listed below; -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Subject: Re: mikuni carb
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: >i have a kolb ultra-star with UL11-02 with a VM-Mikuni carburetor. it >will not idle and i can not increase rpm without useing the choke. >Seems >to be starving for fuel.I replaced all fuel lines, pulse line, fuel >filter, and spark plugs. I culd sure use some help. Is there a kit out >there for this carb. CLYDE Before blaming it all on the carb, are you sure the crankcase seals are good? Also, I've heard that the Cuyuna's are very hard to re-seal after the case has been opened, has this case ever been split since new? -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: mikuni carb
Clyde, Please give us some history of the engine. Did you get it this way? If not, how did the problem develop? All at once or slowly? What changed since the last time it ran well? John Jung > >MarLayne Boller wrote: > > i have a kolb ultra-star with UL11-02 with a VM-Mikuni carburetor. it > will not idle and i can not increase rpm without useing the choke. Seems > to be starving for fuel.I replaced all fuel lines, pulse line, fuel > filter, and spark plugs. I culd sure use some help. Is there a kit out > there for this carb. CLYDE ________________________________________________________________________________
From: lwfuller(at)juno.com
Date: Jun 07, 1998
Subject: Re: third class medical
Hi Tim, See the FAR 61.23 (b) (3) page 38-- it states that 3rd class med. is good for 36 months if you are less than 40 years old other wize it is 24 months. Fly safe and sane, Larry Fuller >Someone at the airport told me today that a 3rd class medical is now >good for >three years, anybody know if this is true? >tim >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net>
Subject: adenda to "grandfather"
I live in Alberta so I should have directed it to Canadians only - sorry for the bother. Gerald ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net>
Subject: "grandfather" clause
Hi, I need some input to the below: I flew my ultralight for about 30 hours back in the days when licensing was not required. I have not flown it for a few years because I have not had time or facilities for recovering it. I am now getting it recovered and I am also buying another ultralight. It is my understanding that I can fly these two ultralights as well as any other ultralight legally since I have logged time in ultralights. Is this correct? I also have an inactive Private Pilot's license that I am getting reactivated via medical and writing the pstar. Hoping for some adv ice - Gerald ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Vacation
Date: Jun 08, 1998
Hi Gang: I'm looking forward to meeting a few of you on my trip North at the end of June. Travels will take me from Sacramento to Yreka, up to Port Angeles, WA, up into B.C. Canada, Arlington on the 10th for the fly-in, then over to Weippe, Idaho. That's all pretty well set now, but for the trip back South, tentative plan is to cut East from Salt Lake City, over into the 4 Corners area, ( hopefully the current problem there will be resolved by then ) then over to Flagstaff, AZ, Mormon Lake for some Pike fishing, and back home to Palm Springs. If any-one on that general route would like to get together and go flying, sightseeing or what-ever, drop a line here, or call me at 760-324-7646. The reverse is also there as well. If any one is in this area whenever, let me know. " Vamoose" isn't airborne yet, but we can sure rent a 172 and go sight-seeing. And I promise - no straight-ins, OK ?? Looking forward to hearing from you. Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 1998
From: David Bruner <brunerd(at)ulster.net>
Subject: Re: Intro
Snip ... BTW- I >bet if you told us where you were at, someone could give you an up-close tour of >a Kolb. > >Russell Duffy >Navarre, FL What a great idea! This lurker is finally roused to respond: Any Kolbs in the Kingston, NY area? Well, within a 100 miles or so? While I'm at it, if that person happens to be a BFI with a FS II.... David Bruner No Kolb yet ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 08, 1998
Subject: Re: Operating & Ownership Costs
In a message dated 6/6/98 5:46:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time, redhill(at)rose.net writes: << I'm interested in total costs including the purchase and sell of the ultralight, maintenance, fuel, hanger expense, and depreciation included. >> Now that would be an interesting number. I tried to figure it out on a thumbnail basis. Basically, I figure that the 135 hours that I spent flying the Mark 2 cost about the same as renting an A36 bonanza (and that isn't even valuing my labor at minimum wage). But I loved the building part of it and the flying was great. The fun of doing this can't always be quantified. ________________________________________________________________________________ (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: sticky wicket
Date: Jun 08, 1998
To All who offered inputs/advice on the sticky tail ring: Many thanks... got a lot of good info and learned a fair bit about what not to do to aluminum... I'm even scared to use cookware now.... Ref the ring; I filled the last foot or so of the boom with crushed ice while letting the ring lie out in this lovely Florida sun for a little while... It went on so easily it almost rattled... I don't have a precision run-out gauge, but I think the ring was warped just slightly from the welding process (as several of you suggested). Again, many thanx for all the ideas and information. Bill Tuton... building FF76 (sorta) I -----Original Message----- From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> Date: Sunday, June 07, 1998 9:55 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: sticky wicket >>To Bill Tuton >>You said >> >>>... worked over the ring with emery cloth and steel wool, polished the >devil out of the fuselage tube with various steel wool grades, and have >slathered ..... > > I never had that tight a fit.Check that there is no welding distortion in >the ring.Check that the ring and tube are round and not slightly oval.You >can probably just heat the ring with a propane torch to slip it on.You do >not need it red hot.I don't think you do not need to take this ring off to >cover the tail,at least I never have.The stab covers quite easily on the >boom tube. > If you are worried about the last posting about microscopic steel in the >tube you can probably cut off the last 2 inches of the boom tube without any >serious detrimental effect.To cover my butt please ask Dennis about the last >bit of advice. > > > > Woody > >- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 1998
From: "Rick Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us>
Subject: 1st Flight
I flew my VW powered Kolb MKIII for the 1st time at 8:30AM today 6\8\98. The airframe and VW flew perfect. I had a 150ft takeoff roll and it seemed to climb like a 912 powered MKIII with two on board. Max RPM on takeoff was 3500, slow cruse appears to be 2500 were it is real smooth and quiet, It flys on as little as 2300 and descends on final fairly steep at 2000. I need to explore the speed ranges and the airspeed indicator accarcy which is in knots but I saw 30-45KTS. The rudder seemed to be trimmed with out input but the alerons needed constant right pressure. I attached a bundgy cord in flight which pulled to the right and this seemed to balance everything. Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: second chantz
Perry, pack chute, that uses compressed air to deploy. It is about 18 months past it's service date. I removed it from the plane for inspection last spring and found no problems (no signs of mildew, insects or mice). I removed it from it's bag for the inspection, but did not do a total repack. I packed cargo chutes while in service, but this one is a little more complicated. In my opinion, it should be done by someone trainned to do personnel chutes. John Jung > >Dr. Perry Morrison wrote: > > Are you interested in selling your second chantz seperately? > > Best > > Perry Morrison ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: 1st Flight
Rick, Congratulations on your first flight. I look forward to hearing about your test flights and performance. John Jung Firestar II N6163J 9 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillU(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 08, 1998
Subject: Re: ANR headsets?
<<> I haven't had the opportunity to measure the octave band frequencies of a Kolb engine. I normally carry a type 2 intergrating sound level meter not an octave band meter unless I'm in Mexico where the noise monitoring regulations are stricter. I would need the octave band measurements to really give you a good evaluation. In my own humble opinion, an active noise reduction headset may have a hard time keeping up with higher frequencies. When performing sound exposure monitoring in numerous automobile manufacturing plants I have never seen an auto worker wearing this type of headset. When ever I finish my FireStar II I may perform some noise measurements and post them on the list. Maybe some manufacturer will send me a free ANR headset for evaluation purposes :-) Will Uribe WillU(at)aol.com Building a FireStar II http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Switch Guards
A 35mm film canister makes a great switch guard. Drill a 1/2" hole in the bottom, slip it over the switch lever, and secure with the nut and washer. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) >Larry Cottrell > >You wrote: " I had managed to turn off the master switch in my attempt to >change tanks with a glove on." > It is basically a small rectanglular aluminum cup or channel that >requires you to actually make an effort to put your finger down into it in >order to flip the switch. I've heard somewhere that you could use a small >spray paint cap (metal type). Drill a hole in the bottom and install the >switch down through it (sort of using the cap as a washer). Works for me. > >Bill Varnes >Original FireStar >Audubon, NJ > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Firestar II testing update
Group, My Firestar II now has 9 hours and I am liking it better all the time. Two of the things that I didn't like initially, have been corrected. I had been unhappy with the small windscreen (too windy) and the loud engine/prop sound. These are things that were not as good as on my original 377 Firestar. I added the large windscreen and doubled up on ear protection. I now wear ear plugs and a headset. Now I am enjoying the plane. I re-checked the stall speed with the large windscreen and it didn't change, still 38 mph. Top spped indicates 95, but is a true 75. That is about the same as with the short windscreen. The airspeed now reads only 3 mph fast at 40 and 50, but 20 mph fast at 75. Problem: The idle jet got something like gel in it and the engine refused to idle. After cleaning the idle jet, the engine ran normal again. This is the first time that I had to clean a jet, on a Bing carb, in the 250 hours that I have used them on Rotaxes. Mixture: I am still burning only about 2.2 gallons an hour with a single carb 503. My exhaust gas temps are only around 900, so I plan to lower the needle a notch. I have run every twin cylinder Rotax with stock jetting and the needle one notch lower than stock. This engine may need the same. Short take-off and landing? Yes. Yesterday I started flying it out of the 500 foot runway where I hanger. It gets off quicker than the 377 original Firestar and climbs at about the same angle, although without having the nose as high. Landings were every bit as easy. The II doesn't float over the runway (at least not yet) and the bigger (6X6) tires help to slow it down. So even though it weighs more and the stall speed is up 3 mph, the II doesn't use any more runway to land than the original Firestar. Ground handling? I recommend the heal brakes. Now that I am more used to the heal brakes, I can stop it fast, turn it on a dime, and do it easier than with 3 lever brakes. John Jung SE Wisconsin Firestar II N6163J 9 hrs Original Firestar Kolb list Map maker http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Kolb_map.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: starter on the Firestar
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Jun 08, 1998
Larry, I did inadvertently hit the kill switch while reaching under the seat once. Since then I mounted it upside down and that works too. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar >Larry Cottrell > >You wrote: " I had managed to turn off the master switch in my >attempt to change tanks with a glove on." > >Liked your report on getting an air start with your new starter setup. > As for inadvertenantly hitting the switch killing the engine, I was concerned >about that happening on my Original FireStar. It's just a small toggle >switch that could easily be flipped to the off position whilst moving charts, etc. >around in the cockpit. Not wanting to be forced down for such a simple >problem, my buddy Ken Mancus, a KXP builder, designed a small shield to >protect the switch. It is basically a small rectanglular aluminum cup or channel >that requires you to actually make an effort to put your finger down into >it in order to flip the switch. I've heard somewhere that you could use a >small spray paint cap (metal type). Drill a hole in the bottom and install >the switch down through it (sort of using the cap as a washer). Works for >me. > >Bill Varnes >Original FireStar >Audubon, NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen Lanham" <sdlanham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb Insurance
Date: Jun 08, 1998
Many thanks for the various responses concerning the insurance issue.This is hopefully the last gasp of the thread. I was so encouraged by the responses from this list that I placed a subsequent call to AVEMCO detailing my project. I felt that the quote that I then received was reasonable, given my lack of any enviable (or otherwise) credentials. Now if I can convince the better half... PS Rusty: Sorry for the 'real plane' gaffe. It was an admittedly clumsy attempt to compare the Kolb to GA in terms of relative potential for exposure, given comparable premiums. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 1998
Subject: Re: Engine Quiz, Remember that one?
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: > >..... after which Rusty told me about the $90 tool >from LEAF made just for this purpose. .... Not to pick nits but just in case you change your mind about rewarding that 'prize' (Sorry Rusty): >>On Tue, 24 Mar 1998, Mick Fine wrote: >> >>> writes: >>> >>.......Thanks Mick, >>But, here's back at ya. How do you do a vacuum test? >>I'm game if you'll please describe. >>Thanks. >>-Ben > >Hi, > >I've never done one myself (but wish I had!). You have to seal-off the >intake and exhaust ports with a plate + gasket and then attach a >vacuum pump to the impulse (fuel pump) nipple. You only apply a few (4 >or 5?) inches of vacuum and then close a valve and if the seals are >good, they will hold that vacuum for some time (10 mins?). I'm >guessing at these numbers while looking thru my old CPS catalog for >something more exact but so far, I only find kit on page 130 of the >1994 catalog for the hardware ($89.95 - typical 400% CPS mark-up). The >exact procedure may be in the factory Rotax manual which I got notta. > >Re-post this to the list if you want, I'm sure someone out there has >done it, I've just had it described to me. Sorry... > > >-Mick Seriously, I do think it might make a difference whether you check the seals with positive or negative pressure tho. The seals were designed to resist a vacuum and might leak a little if pushed the other way even when they're brand new but it's purely theory on my part! BTW, hope your surgery went well and doesn't keep you grounded too long! -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Spring Loaded chute
>wood wrote: > >> I like the Niagras myself.I have the last Niagra ever produced I just >> happened to be in the shop as they were closing the doors.I will hunt up the >> instructions and scan them for you.Repacking is no problem if you were to >> take it to any sport parachuting place and get one of the riggers to do it. >> >> Woody >--------------------------------------------------------------------------- >Thanks Woody, > So far I've seen two of these units and they were usually thrown in the >deal >as a kind of incentive. It's great to know that repacking shouldn't be a >problem. >Thanks for the offer for scanning the instructions, I'd really >appreciate that. >I'll be away for three weeks, starting Thursday, so if I don't seem to >be there, >don't worry, I'll be somewhere between here (Montreal) and the Grand >Canyon on my >yearly motorcycle adventure. Once I get back, it's intensive flying (if >the weather >ever lightens up!). >Bye for now, >Thanks again, > Guy > > If you hop the border around Detroit Windsor area look me up.Us kolb guys gotta stick together Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pen.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Quiz, Remember that one?
Date: Jun 08, 1998
>Not to pick nits but just in case you change your mind about rewarding >that 'prize' (Sorry Rusty): Ben told me the prize was the next cow pile he hits on one of his famous off airport landings- Still want it :-) Actually, it dawns on me that I still owe Ben for that little Bay crossing web page he put together a while back. You know, I think I might still have that message where Ben described "failed method number one"...(evil laughter is heard here). Hmmmm :-) Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 1998
Subject: Re: landings- wheel bearings
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: > >.... He makes a interesting point saying >"unknown to most passengers and many pilots the best landing is not a >greaser. In any airplane, Cub or jetliner, the best landing is one >made at >the slowest possible speed". Maybe I just had the good fortune to learn from an instructor from the 'old school.' He taught that a "greaser" WAS done at the slowest possible speed AND without 'dropping it in.' Chirping the tires or bouncing didn't get it. (This was in a 152. ) Another instructor at the same field teaches a 'B52' pattern and apparently wants to hear the tires bark on every touch down. You can hear his students a mile away (literally) 'playing the throttle' all the way down on their very shallow glide slopes. He must buy a lot of rubber but he turns-out many more "pilots" too. I guess that offsets the cost pretty well. I think I've mentioned this before but you 'low tail-boom' guys are making me worry. The more I read, the more I think it's gonna be a steep learning curve going from the Flyer to the Twinstar. Maybe my Flyer (with high tail-boom) just suffers fools better (to borrow a phrase), and here I thought it was superior piloting! Of course, I would very much like to learn how you do this: > ....The last time that I went out I just did >landings.... :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 1998
Subject: Re: Engine Quiz, Remember that one?
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
> >.... You know, I think I might still >have that >message where Ben described "failed method number one"...(evil >laughter is heard >here). Hmmmm :-) > >Rusty Please don't tell me that Ben's 'chronic ear problem' was due to sucking on a piece of fuel line while trying to read a freon gauge with his remaining eyeball (the other one hanging half-way down his throat, dangling by the optic nerve)! -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: MKIII mods
After being grounded for 7 months, N420P is back in the air. Last November I pulled it down, and pulled out the original fuel tank system, and removed the doors and windshield, hoping to accomplish 2 goals: give the MKIII a baggage area, and increase the safety margin of getting out of my short strip at gross weight. Initial results are very favorable! Take off solo (my wife won't get in it until I prove it for another 5 hours or so, she's the smart one in the family) is quicker, climb out is better, and best of all, cruise is faster at a lower rpm. There is a 12.5 gallon fuel tank ahead of the engine, taking up the place where the gap cover used to be. It feeds a 2.5 gallon hopper tank that is mounted on the back side of the tubing behind the passenger seat. The hopper tank is sealed up and vents only to the main tank, and dual fuel pumps draw from it to the engine. This has moved the CG aft a little, and I still do not have it trimmed out perfectly. Currently I have 6 pounds of lead clamped to the cage just ahead of the rudder pedals, next winter I will move the battery box up there and get rid of the ballast. Where the original fuel tanks were, is now a cargo bay, same size as the original tanks in depth and height, floor is 3/16" aircraft ply. Rear bulkhead is fabric, as is the front. The windshield has been trimmed so that the airflow can go under the wing center section, as I was convinced that the combined effect of the windshield extending to the wing, plus the doors, was like pushing an enormous badminton birdie through the air. (The Kolb "Shuttlecock?") The doors are also cut back about a third, so that they end about half way down the forearm when your arm is alongside of you. They are now the same total width as the fuselage, instead of sticking out. My wife sewed a tonneau cover that velcro's over the top of the open fuselage/cargo area to keep airflow out of that potentially turbulent area. One problem is the sudden incredible efficiency of the radiator. I am using a Honda 750 radiator that I got off a wreck, it is 10"x11"x1" and is mounted at the rear of the cage just below the wing. It is impossible to get the 532 over 145 degrees even in an extended climb. Previously it was not possible to use that radiator in that area even solo, because the engine would go to 200 degrees, had to put it atop the wing. Tuft tested the fuselage sides this afternoon, video'd the fuselage during a fly-by, and then played the tape back and stopped it a frame at a time. Very interesting! Four rows of 10" yarn tufts spaced equally top to bottom and front to back, sixteen 10" yarn threads in all. The first row behind the cockpit area were continually going nuts, very disturbed air. The next row back was not as bad, pointed back better, more stable, the third row back was very floppy, and frequently pointing back away from the fuselage sides, so the flow is detaching at that point. The last row was fairly stable pointing back, but also detached to some extent. I suspect that portion of the fuselage to be a high drag area due to it's fast taper, and turbulent cockpit area just ahead. If I can figure out how to solve that problem, then the drag should go down quite a bit. Preliminary numbers keep changing as I am getting it re trimmed, but it flies happily level as 52 mph at 5000 rpm, 68 mph at 5800 rpm, and at 6500 rpm, was accelerating through 85 mph when I got a funny vibration, and backed off. I am satisfied that the center section of the wing is now working to provide lift that it didn't really do before, and also that the lower half of the prop is now running in cleaner air, and is more efficient. The cockpit area is a little airish, but not bad at all, a ball cap stays comfortably in place under the headset with no tendency to get blown off, and there is no windy-ness or turbulence. That MKIII is one fine flyin' airplane! Thanks, Homer and Dennis! More info as I learn it. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net>
Subject: Re: Intro
Date: Jun 09, 1998
Hey David. I live in Schenectady, NY and have an original Firestar that I am currently recovering. It should be flying in about a week. I fly out of Mohawk Valley near Scotia. There is another guy with a new Firestar about 30 miles north of Albany. There was a new Mark III with mono-float located at Freehold just north of Kingston last year. I don't know if he is still there. There is a fly-in at Kiln Kill airport near you that usually has 4 or 5 Kolbs stopping in. I don't know the date for that this year. No BFIs around with 2 place trainers that I know of. You can't get dual instruction in a FSII since there is only one set of controls. I hope this will get things rolling for you. Scott Olendorf Original Firestar with Rotax 377 Schenectady, NY -----Original Message----- From: David Bruner <brunerd(at)ulster.net> Date: Monday, June 08, 1998 6:51 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Intro >Snip >... BTW- I >>bet if you told us where you were at, someone could give you an up-close >tour of >>a Kolb. >> >>Russell Duffy >>Navarre, FL > > >What a great idea! This lurker is finally roused to respond: >Any Kolbs in the Kingston, NY area? Well, within a 100 miles or so? > >While I'm at it, if that person happens to be a BFI with a FS II.... > >David Bruner >No Kolb yet > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine Quiz, Remember that one?
On Mon, 8 Jun 1998, Russell Duffy wrote: > Ben told me the prize was the next cow pile he hits on one of his famous off > airport landings- Still want it :-) I'll be packaging a big juicy one up for you the day I see something like Subject: "failed method number one". :) If a FS had better range I'd enjoy doing a special delivery (bombs away, returned evil laughter). This is where John Jungs map will come in handy. :) BTW, how did i ever get myself so vulnerable to such blackmail? -Ben > > Actually, it dawns on me that I still owe Ben for that little Bay crossing web > page he put together a while back. You know, I think I might still have that > message where Ben described "failed method number one"...(evil laughter is heard > here). Hmmmm :-) > Rusty ...'might still have'?! I picture your finger hovering above the send key!!! -Ben and from Mick: >Please don't tell me that Ben's 'chronic ear problem' was due to sucking >on a piece of fuel line while trying to read a freon gauge with his >remaining eyeball (the other one hanging half-way down his throat, >dangling by the optic nerve)! Mick: I can only guess you are cheating ...you know too much!, on this and the reason my engine was quitting. I think I may need to scoop something up on my next remote landing for you too! -Ben ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 1998
Subject: Name Problem
From: rayul(at)juno.com (Raymond L Lujon)
I am trying to contact a certain Mark III builder with a 916 in the Mpls-St paul metro area. I think the first name is Don, Ron or Jon. Please contact me direct. Ray Lujon ________________________________________________________________________________ release (PO205-101c) ID# 605-45218U5000L500S0) with SMTP
From: "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)intermediatn.net>
Subject: Re: MKIII mods
Date: Jun 09, 1998
Richard, Thanks for reporting on the improvements in the performance of your MkIII. Sounds like the new performance delights you as it should. I find one aspect of the performance remarkable but not easily understood. Perhaps you or one of the others on the list came enlighten me. The interesting result is that your airplanes speed ratios at different Engine RPMs is proportional to the square of the RPM ratios. For example, 52mph at 5000rpm and 68 mph at 5800 rpm gives (68mph/52mph)=1.308 and (5800rpm/5000rpm)^2=1.346 whereas (5800rpm/5000rpm)=1.16 and (85mph/68mph)=1.25 and (6500rpm/5800rpm)^2=1.255 whereas (6500rpm/5800rpm)=1.12 As you can see, the speed ratios are nearly the same as the rpm ratios squared and much different than the simple ratios of the rpms. This strikes me as interesting because my Firestar II over the range of 50 mph to 80 mph has a speed that is proportional to the engine rpms. While I was collecting that data, I checked the hand book on the Cessna 150 over the range 109 to 139 KTS its speed is proportional to the engine rpms, also. It would appear that you have your MkIII operating in a different mode. That makes me curious. First, how different is your airplanes performance in this regard from its performance before the modifications. Secondly, how does the airspeed for other KOLB airplanes change as the engine rpm changes? Thanks for any insights or data anyone can provide. Vince Nicely Kolb Firestar II N8233G -----Original Message----- From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> Date: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 4:12 AM Subject: Kolb-List: MKIII mods > After being grounded for 7 months, N420P is back in the air. Last >November I pulled it down, and pulled out the original fuel tank system, and >removed the doors and windshield, hoping to accomplish 2 goals: give the >MKIII a baggage area, and increase the safety margin of getting out of my >short strip at gross weight. > Initial results are very favorable! Take off solo (my wife won't get >in it until I prove it for another 5 hours or so, she's the smart one in the >family) is quicker, climb out is better, and best of all, cruise is faster >at a lower rpm. > There is a 12.5 gallon fuel tank ahead of the engine, taking up the >place where the gap cover used to be. It feeds a 2.5 gallon hopper tank that >is mounted on the back side of the tubing behind the passenger seat. The >hopper tank is sealed up and vents only to the main tank, and dual fuel >pumps draw from it to the engine. > This has moved the CG aft a little, and I still do not have it >trimmed out perfectly. Currently I have 6 pounds of lead clamped to the cage >just ahead of the rudder pedals, next winter I will move the battery box up >there and get rid of the ballast. > Where the original fuel tanks were, is now a cargo bay, same size as >the original tanks in depth and height, floor is 3/16" aircraft ply. Rear >bulkhead is fabric, as is the front. > The windshield has been trimmed so that the airflow can go under the >wing center section, as I was convinced that the combined effect of the >windshield extending to the wing, plus the doors, was like pushing an >enormous badminton birdie through the air. (The Kolb "Shuttlecock?") > The doors are also cut back about a third, so that they end about >half way down the forearm when your arm is alongside of you. They are now >the same total width as the fuselage, instead of sticking out. > My wife sewed a tonneau cover that velcro's over the top of the open >fuselage/cargo area to keep airflow out of that potentially turbulent area. > One problem is the sudden incredible efficiency of the radiator. I >am using a Honda 750 radiator that I got off a wreck, it is 10"x11"x1" and >is mounted at the rear of the cage just below the wing. It is impossible to >get the 532 over 145 degrees even in an extended climb. Previously it was >not possible to use that radiator in that area even solo, because the engine >would go to 200 degrees, had to put it atop the wing. > Tuft tested the fuselage sides this afternoon, video'd the fuselage >during a fly-by, and then played the tape back and stopped it a frame at a >time. Very interesting! Four rows of 10" yarn tufts spaced equally top to >bottom and front to back, sixteen 10" yarn threads in all. The first row >behind the cockpit area were continually going nuts, very disturbed air. The >next row back was not as bad, pointed back better, more stable, the third >row back was very floppy, and frequently pointing back away from the >fuselage sides, so the flow is detaching at that point. The last row was >fairly stable pointing back, but also detached to some extent. > I suspect that portion of the fuselage to be a high drag area due to >it's fast taper, and turbulent cockpit area just ahead. If I can figure out >how to solve that problem, then the drag should go down quite a bit. > Preliminary numbers keep changing as I am getting it re trimmed, but >it flies happily level as 52 mph at 5000 rpm, 68 mph at 5800 rpm, and at >6500 rpm, was accelerating through 85 mph when I got a funny vibration, and >backed off. > I am satisfied that the center section of the wing is now working to >provide lift that it didn't really do before, and also that the lower half >of the prop is now running in cleaner air, and is more efficient. > The cockpit area is a little airish, but not bad at all, a ball cap >stays comfortably in place under the headset with no tendency to get blown >off, and there is no windy-ness or turbulence. > That MKIII is one fine flyin' airplane! Thanks, Homer and Dennis! > More info as I learn it. > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) > >- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 1998
From: Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us>
Subject: N.Y. Antique Museum
Somewhere I saw a show that was made at a air museum in New York State. They fly vintage WW1 planes and have a museum. Does anyone know the name of this place and where it is? Also does anyone have the particulars of what they do and when? Thanks for the help Gary ========================================================================= | Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us | | Souderton Pa. | | | | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only) | ========================================================================= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGrooms511(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 09, 1998
Subject: Re: N.Y. Antique Museum
Gary; I have the brochure that I picked up at Sun and Fun sitting on the table next to me. The place is called the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome, 44 Stone Church Road, Rhinebeck New York. Phone 914-758-8610 E Mail Address www.oldrhinebeck.org Admission M - F Adults $5.00 Children 6-10 $2.00 Saturday and Sunday air shows Adults $10.00 Children $5.00 Hours 10:00 AM to 5:00 Pm May 15 thru Oct 31st. They had a replica Sopwith Camel with a Gnom rotary engine flying at Sun and Fun. If you've never seen a rotary engine, it's worth the price of admission alone. Enjoy. ________________________________________________________________________________ (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP
From: "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Kolb Fabric help
Date: Jun 09, 1998
got one wing of my Kolb covered and put all the tapes down, then brushed on one coat of Poly-Brush. All according to the manual; then I sprayed on a coat of Poly-Brush and the temperature was to high and it came out like cotton candy! The Question is how to fix it? One guy at the airport sez to wipe it with MEK and spray with cooled down PB. Another sez rip off the fabric and start again(which I can't afford) Any Suggestions? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rrice(at)wcoil.com
Date: Jun 09, 1998
Long flying story ,and dream come true. Two yrs ago I bought a cgs hawk that had been covered with stits process,and altered in some differant ways. I had been fearfull of 2cyls so I set out to put a Subaru engine on it. I worked all summer doing the instulation,got the job all done and I still am not sure about being a test pilot. Well a friend that had been taking me up for lessons in a kolb said he would test it for me. And because he did it is the probably reason that I am still here. Turns out it flew very poorly ,according to him ,but it flew.He had to use all his years of acculated skills to get it back on ground.He advised that I never take it up.VERY big DISAPOINTMENT, Ok I listened to him and reinstalled the 503.And then sold it,because I was very discouraged ,because my dad and I had took a yr to build this thing and you would never want a better running engine than the subaru ,no matter it was to heavy, it was a dream, anyway I got rid of it, thinking my flying dreams were over. Then I said to my self this dont have to be...I started taking lessons again and bought a quicksilver gt-400 ,(some of you have read my adventures getting this thing home 3 wks ago.) Well the weather has been bad for flying all spring here and then trying to make time to get some flying time in has been a hassel,but TONIGHT it all payed off as I went to the hanger looked at the wind sock ,called the wife of 35 yrs and said ,better get over here, well she has put up with everything over the years from cars ,trucks,bulldozers,tractors,antique cars ,hovercraft,a horse,other farm animals including a hog raising venture, one airplane I was afraid to fly,and now this.Well I set out to preflight ,and here she comes(not sure why she don't want to miss this) but glad she is still with me on this thing. After a very complete preflight I look up at her and she says isn't there more to check.By this time I'm thinking she thinks I'm afraid to fly or this woman really don't want me to go. Any way gave her the kiss she deserves and put on helmet and get in plane.Do the run up taxie out. Plan is to do a fast taxie then turn around and line up and go for it.Well I start down the grass and it feels so good frount wheel comes up and I hold her there,then something strange happened ,I just kept adding throttle, the faster I go the better it feels,It just kept feeling better and better and you know the rest .Me and GT off into the wild blue.Turns out I flew about 20 min and lined up on final and touched down in a really smooth landing,wife says ok..you did good you can do it again, all the waiting and lessons had paid off big dividends in a safe flight Ended up I did five take offs and landings for the evening.Best part is little blue is ready to go again when i decide to. Thanks to those on the list that privatly gave advice and my friends Will Tatum,Chip Myers,and the one who promised ..I will never leave you or forsake you..My prayer has been answered. TONIGHT I SOLOED dave r ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 1998
From: Jhann Gestur Jhannsson <johann.g(at)centrum.is>
Subject: Rockwell JLO engines??
Hi Kolbers, My friend found an engine for his ultralight and needs some information about this approx. 20 year old engine. The name is Rockwell JLO LB600-2. This is a 600cc two cyl. twin cycle boxer engine. Does anyone on the list have any information about this engine such as gearbox or gear drive, exhaust system or even someone who sells parts? Any help would be highly appreciated. Best regards, Jhann G. Iceland. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 1998
Subject: Re: Rockwell JLO engines??
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: > >.... The name is Rockwell JLO >LB600-2. >This is a 600cc two cyl. twin cycle boxer engine. >Does anyone on the list have any information about this engine such as >gearbox or gear drive, exhaust system or even someone who sells parts? > >Any help would be highly appreciated. Hello Jhann, I hesitate to recommend this source for parts but you might try: J-Bird 210 Main St. Kewaskum, WI 53040 (414) 626-2611 If he has any JLO stuff, it will be priced pretty high (at first). Don't act too interested or desperate and you might get it for only twice what it's worth! Another (possibly better) source is: Central Snowmobile PO Box 13188 Green Bay, WI 54307-3188 www.centralsnowmobile.com 1-800-558-6778 (not sure if that'll work from Iceland!) Their '98 catalog lists several used JLO engines 400, 440 and 700cc but no 600cc. I believe the Cuyuna was more or less a direct copy of the JLO so some of those parts may also be useable (but I may be completely wrong!) -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: MKIII mods
>Richard, > >Thanks for reporting on the improvements in the performance of your MkIII. >Sounds like the new performance delights you as it should. > >I find one aspect of the performance remarkable but not easily understood. >Perhaps you or one of the others on the list came enlighten me. > >The interesting result is that your airplane=92s speed ratios at different >Engine RPMs is proportional to the square of the RPM ratios. For example, >52mph at 5000rpm and 68 mph at 5800 rpm gives > > (68mph/52mph)=3D1.308 and (5800rpm/5000rpm)^2=3D1.346 whereas >(5800rpm/5000rpm)=3D1.16 > >and (85mph/68mph)=3D1.25 and (6500rpm/5800rpm)^2=3D1.255 whereas >(6500rpm/5800rpm)=3D1.12 > >As you can see, the speed ratios are nearly the same as the rpm ratios >squared and much different than the simple ratios of the rpms. > >This strikes me as interesting because my Firestar II over the range of 50 >mph to 80 mph has a speed that is proportional to the engine rpms. While I >was collecting that data, I checked the hand book on the Cessna 150 over= the >range 109 to 139 KTS its speed is proportional to the engine rpms, also. It >would appear that you have your MkIII operating in a different mode. > >That makes me curious. First, how different is your airplane=92s= performance >in this regard from its performance before the modifications. Secondly, >how does the airspeed for other KOLB airplanes change as the engine rpm >changes? > >Thanks for any insights or data anyone can provide. > >Vince Nicely >Kolb Firestar II =96 N8233G > Preliminary data, airplane not yet trimmed right, only 5 flights, and some of them in turbulence to the point that not a whole lot could be nailed down. Will know better after I get more time in a properly rigged and trimmed airplane. But the subjective impressions are excellent, if that's worth anything. Richard Pike MKIII N420P 942oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)megalink.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Fabric help
Date: Jun 10, 1998
Geoff: Although I can't actually see the painted product, I probably have been there during at least one of my 5 previous covering projects with stits (which still is about the best process in my mind anyway!) 1.) Although extremely rare, Stits polybrush spraying out stringy often means that it was not diluted with reducer prior to spraying. If you don't have one, obtain a Polyfiber application book, it will greatly assist you in avoiding some pitfalls. If stringy polybrush is what you actually have, using Stits reducer judiciously to wipe it down may help you avoid lifting the tapes. You may have to replace some tapes if it is severe, but unless you unglue the main fabric cover the rest will be O.K. 2.) The most probable problem that often occurs when spraying in high temperatures is called 'blushing'. The high temperatures are not the actual problem, the higher humidity contained in warmer air is the culprit. The last coat will look white and milky and not feel smooth. In this case: Buff the last coat with a soft cloth until smooth either by hand or mechanically. What you are doing is smoothing the millions of tiny bubbles that textured the paint. If it is severe an additional wipe with reducer may also help. The real key to a smooth coat during higher temperature applications is to use Blush Retarder (also a stits product). Of interest: spraying in extremely cold temperatures also exaggerates the effect of moisture precipitation no matter how minimal, so I use retarder at all temperatures. The advantage is a consistently smoother coat with more shine. The disadvantage is more care should be taken to avoid runs in the coat as it dries somewhat slower when retarder is used. Blush retarder can be used in all of the stits process products. The above notes are given as an opinion, and used by myself. They are not intended to represent professional facts or instructions. (I have an allergy to the legal system) Frank Hodson, Oxford ME ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGrooms511(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 10, 1998
Subject: Re: Kolb Fabric help
Geoff: The polybrush sprayed on as strings is not a big problem. It is caused by spraying too thick a liquid. Simply sand the surfaces with a fine sand paper and you will be right back down to a smooth surface, ready to spray again. Of course, be careful sanding around sharp edges, so as not to wear into the fabric, but that is not hard to avoid with a little care. I have done this several times, and it turns out fine. Good luck. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGrooms511(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 10, 1998
Subject: Re: Rockwell JLO engines??
Johan: Mick's advice is good, however I might add two caveats. If you deal with J Bird, don't ask him for, nor take any advice that he offers. Secondly, if you call Central snowmobile, don't tell them you are an ultralightist, or even mention the word airplane. They will not sell to you at any price. Good luck W Grooms ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 1998
From: Pawel DROZDZIAK <matic(at)wonet.com.pl>
Subject: Subaru Engines - O.K. ?
Dear List, I just have an opprotunity to buy an engine of Subaru Leone. It will cost approximately $ 850 with renovation. I am going to mount a double sit UL. Did anybody have any experiences with Subaru ? thanks in advance... Pawel Drozdziak ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 1998
From: Terry Swartz <Tswartz(at)ptdprolog.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Fabric help
Geoff Thistlethwaite wrote: > > got one wing of my Kolb covered and put all the tapes down, then brushed > on one coat of Poly-Brush. All according to the manual; then I sprayed on a > coat of Poly-Brush and the temperature was to high and it came out like > cotton candy! > The Question is how to fix it? > One guy at the airport sez to wipe it with MEK and spray with cooled down > PB. Another sez rip off the fabric and start again(which I can't afford) > Any Suggestions? > Don't rip off the fabric. You should be able to clean it up with MEK. I never had much luck sanding the stuff as it's seems to rubberey. I had a little cotton candy and you can correct the problem by chilling the Polybrush for an hour in the frezzer. Then keep the can of Polybrush your working out of on ice in an ice chest. Be sure to dilute it with retarding reducer. I used the retarding reducer for the poly spray and poly tone also. For me it seemed to work better to use a little more reducer then they recommend. Try to paint when temps are below 80 degrees. BTW, The Polybrush seems to be the most diffucilt to work with. I had no cotton candy with the other products. Terry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rallynq(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 10, 1998
Subject: Re: N.Y. Antique Museum
I think you may be referring to the Antique Warplane Museum which was at Geneseo, NY but is being rebuilt at Elmira, NY and will be opening in August of this year. They also used to put on an airshow of old warplanes at Geneseo, then Batavia and now at Elmira. Mike Alexander ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com>
Subject: RE: N.Y. Antique Museum
Date: Jun 10, 1998
http://www.warplane.org/ ? > -----Original Message----- > From: Rallynq(at)aol.com [SMTP:Rallynq(at)aol.com] > Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 1998 9:40 AM > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Re: N.Y. Antique Museum > > I think you may be referring to the Antique Warplane Museum ... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 1998
From: Charles Davis <davisc(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Intro
David, Well, it's a little further than you ask for, but I am taking lessons fro= m James Spadafora (BFI & AFI) in a Kolb MK II just south of Princeton NJ. My travel planner CD says 140 miles, 2 - 2 1/2 hrs, depending on how you drive. Jim charges $75/hr, wet (all inclusive) and is a nice guy as well as a great instrctor. He's been flying for 10 years, has a private pilot licence, and also flies Kolbs, trikes, and hang gliders. My experiences with him so far (10 hrs) have been very good. Jim's home number is 609-499-3045 Chuck Davis 609-275-5072 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 1998
From: "Philip A Jahnke" <paj.phoenix(at)mailexcite.com>
Subject: 1/2 VW
Has anyone mounted the 1/2 VW on a firestar or firefly airframe? I am wondering what type of performance one could get from this matchup. --- Phil Jahnke Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere! http://www.mailexcite.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 1998
Subject: Re: 1/2 VW
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: >Has anyone mounted the 1/2 VW on a firestar or firefly airframe? I am >wondering what type of performance one could get from this matchup. > Several years ago a guy put one on an original Firestar but he also converted it to a tractor configuration. To me this deleted one of the main attractions of a Kolb (pusher config.). EAA Experimenter magazine did an article on it that I'm sure you could get a copy of. The guy still runs an ad in the back of that magazine selling VW conversion plans, it says something like, "How I built a 'smooth' 1/2 VW". -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dickk9(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 10, 1998
Subject: Information on Kuntzleman Strobes
The provision in FAR section 103.11 for 30 min before sunrise and 30 min after sunset is for ULTRALIGHTS, not expermental aircraft. Yes it can be any light visable for 3 stature miles. It can run off a battery or the engine or whatever. Strobes from JC Whitney are not legal. I am familiar with that strobe and you would be hard pressed to see it three miles away at midnight. John Hauck mentioned Whelen Strobes. Yes they are very good and very expensive. My system is much lighter and can be used with their heads, if you need navigation lights RED & GREEN. Which by the way is needed for certified night flight. You can not fly after sunset with an expermental aircraft unless your aircraft has been approved for that type operation - lights alone does not make it legal. We at Kuntzleman Electronics are presently working on Red and Green nav lights, but they are not going to be available for some time. Our lights systems are light in weight, and as bright as the general aviation (TSO) systems. They would pass the FAA requirment for brightness and flashrate, should we desire to spend the money to have them certified. However, if we did go that route, the price would go the way of general aviation equipment. We have designed our systems to fit the type aircraft we are interested in marketing to. I feel we have a very good product and with over 3000 units in the field for the most part working trouble free. If one does break we try to do all repairs on a 24 hour turn around and repairs are usually free of charge. All our systems are sold with a satisfaction guarantee. Try it if you are not satisfied with brightness, flash rate or whatever send it back and I will refund your money, I can't do much more than that. I hope this rambling makes some good fodder for some of the questions, Anyone that would like our free brochure, send your postal mailing address to dickk9(at)aol.com Regards...................Dick Kuntzleman ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 1998
From: Bob Gross <RPGross(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Information on Kuntzleman Strobes
Dickk9(at)aol.com wrote: > > The provision in FAR section 103.11 for 30 min before sunrise and 30 min after > sunset is for ULTRALIGHTS, not expermental aircraft. Yes it can be any light > visable for 3 stature miles. It can run off a battery or the engine or > whatever. Strobes from JC Whitney are not legal. I am familiar with that > strobe and you would be hard pressed to see it three miles away at midnight. > John Hauck mentioned Whelen Strobes. Yes they are very good and very > expensive. My system is much lighter and can be used with their heads, if you > need navigation lights RED & GREEN. Which by the way is needed for certified > night flight. You can not fly after sunset with an expermental aircraft > unless your aircraft has been approved for that type operation - lights alone > does not make it legal. We at Kuntzleman Electronics are presently working on > Red and Green nav lights, but they are not going to be available for some > time. Our lights systems are light in weight, and as bright as the general > aviation (TSO) systems. They would pass the FAA requirment for brightness and > flashrate, should we desire to spend the money to have them certified. > However, if we did go that route, the price would go the way of general > aviation equipment. We have designed our systems to fit the type aircraft we > are interested in marketing to. I feel we have a very good product and with > over 3000 units in the field for the most part working trouble free. If one > does break we try to do all repairs on a 24 hour turn around and repairs are > usually free of charge. All our systems are sold with a satisfaction > guarantee. Try it if you are not satisfied with brightness, flash rate or > whatever send it back and I will refund your money, I can't do much more than > that. > > I hope this rambling makes some good fodder for some of the questions, > > Anyone that would like our free brochure, send your postal mailing > address to dickk9(at)aol.com > > Regards...................Dick Kuntzleman > - I can recommend Dicks products. I have the superbright wingtip flash system on my FS original powered by the lightting coil. They are REAL BRIGHT and the Kuntzelman group give friendly advice and service. Bob Gross ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 1998
From: Monte <Monte84(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Rotax 618 on MarkIII
Hello, Does anyone have the 618 on their MarkIII? I see that in Kolbs price list the 618 costs $6868 but that includes electric start and c or e gearbox. The 582 costs $5074 with no electric start and b gearbox. Add $475 for c-box and $475 for electric start and you got $6024 which is only $844 less than the 618. I would appreciate anyones thoughts on this since I still haven't decided what engine to put on my MarkIII. Thanks, Monte ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 618 on MarkIII
>Hello, > > Does anyone have the 618 on their MarkIII? I see that in Kolbs >price list the 618 costs $6868 but that includes electric start and c or >e gearbox. The 582 costs $5074 with no electric start and b gearbox. >Add $475 for c-box and $475 for electric start and you got $6024 which >is only $844 less than the 618. I would appreciate anyones thoughts on >this since I still haven't decided what engine to put on my MarkIII. > > Thanks, > > Monte >- I have a 532, which is good. A 582 would be better, because then I could turn more prop slower. A 618 would be great. We strongly encourage you to spend your money. If it turns out you don't like it, I will trade you a good 532, and even give you some money, too. :-) Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Fabric help
I sprayed on a coat of Poly-Brush and the temperature was to high and it came out like cotton candy! The Question is how to fix it? The instructor I wanted to ask was out of town, so I will just tell you what I did. I got some coton candy on the wing of my MKIII when I was spraying it, so I dumped the paint back in the can, and refilled the paint pot about 3/4 full of stits thinner, and a slug of retarder, and lightly and CAREFULLY sprayed the wing down, being careful not to run it. The cotton candy/spider webbed paint was thin enough it sorta dissolved and blended right back into the surface. Depending on the thickness of the strands of your cotton candied paint, it may work for you. But if you lay it on too thick and run it, you will really have a mess. Let us know what you end up doing, and how it turns out. And next time use more retarder, and you won't get into this fix. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Gerken <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 618 on MarkIII
Date: Jun 11, 1998
The 618 would be a good choice if you need maximum power, for float operation, or two large (>200 lbs each) people. I use the 582 and it works fine from land. Check those prices again, from memory I spent 5400 for the 582, exhaust, "C" box, Rotax dual radiators, RECOIL start, Dual Bings with HAC installed, the Rotax oil tank, and Kolb's mounting kit. I added a prop later. Another issue for you to think about now is the prop. Hopefully someone running a 618 will tell you what they are doing for the prop. I bet they have to space up the engine and use a 72" three-bladed prop with the 618, to absorb the power properly. Good luck, I went thru the same issues, and settled on the 582 because of its reputation. The 618 is a little-used engine in snowmobiles that was discontinued years ago already. The 582 was just discontinued this year, now that there is a 600cc twin cylinder, case reeds(NO RV), RAVE valve... available for the sleds (I want one already!). Jim Gerken owner-kolb(at)intrig.com on 06-10-98 11:20:23 PM Please respond to owner-kolb(at)intrig.com cc: Subject: Kolb-List: Rotax 618 on MarkIII Hello, Does anyone have the 618 on their MarkIII? I see that in Kolbs price list the 618 costs $6868 but that includes electric start and c or e gearbox. The 582 costs $5074 with no electric start and b gearbox. Add $475 for c-box and $475 for electric start and you got $6024 which is only $844 less than the 618. I would appreciate anyones thoughts on this since I still haven't decided what engine to put on my MarkIII. Thanks, Monte ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Spiderwebbing
My paint guru buddy called me this morning and here is what he says about preventing and curing spiderwebs resulting from using Stits poly-brush, or other nitrate type coverings. Poly-brush comes at the right viscosity to brush on, reduce it at least 25-30% to spray it on. In warm or hot conditions, or if using a HVLP sprayer that uses heated air, use some retarder also. Maximum amount of retarder not to exceed 4 ounces per gallon of paint. Spray at the lowest possible pressure. He says that with his gun sometimes he can get away with using only 25 pounds pressure, sometimes it needs 30. If you are trying to get rid of spiderwebs that you already have on the wing, there are three ways: sanding, wiping with reducer, and spraying with reducer that has a dab of retarder mixed in; this is called "burn-down." Sanding is not very satisfactory, because the fabric will flex, and you do not get rid of the webs, you just round the edges over, and hide them a bit. Wiping with reducer is not real satisfactory, because the potential for runs, and waves, and coming up with a worse problem is very likely. Burn-down is the best option, be very careful not to run it, or once again, the cure is as bad as the disease. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: 1/2 VW
On Wed, 10 Jun 1998, Philip A Jahnke wrote: > Has anyone mounted the 1/2 VW on a firestar or firefly airframe? I am wondering what type of performance one could get from this matchup. > The 1/2vw looks attractive at first blush. It can be built up to = or less weight than a 447 according to Bob Moore (http://www.win.net/~letsfly/4stroke.html). He initially had it at 83 lbs, and dropped that by making his own thin-wall stainless exhaust stacks. I emailed Bob once after looking at his pages and other 1/2vw info. Bob said that the 1/2vw maxes at ~35+hp. That compromise, from 40hp 447, isn't too bad. But he said he can get up to 35+hp only by spinning a prop no bigger than 54x24. This would really lack in Uuumph effect compared to normal 66x3_ on a 447'd Kolb FS. -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Powerfin prop
Powerfin must be doing real good selling their props as they do not seem to need my business. I have made several attempts to get a price on their props but they prefer to ignore me. Does anyone have any experience with this company? Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dboll" <dboll(at)ndak.net>
Date: Jun 11, 1998
Hi. I'm Don Boll and I fly a firestar with a 503 . I have 54 hours on it and I love it. I built it fro= m a wreck in which the pilot was killed. That took away some of the fun of building but got past that and have had a lot of fun since. Regards, Don ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Powerfin prop
Date: Jun 11, 1998
Hi Woody: Sorry I don't have any info on Powerfin, but you do bring another question to mind. I had pretty well made up my mind to use a Warp Drive; partly from good things I had heard, and mainly from talking to the company on the phone. Very knowledgeable, helpful and straightforward. Now however, the RANS dealer in Hemet has started handling Sport Props. A couple of local guys have bought them and are raving about them. Have you had any word or experience with these ?? Anyone ?? I'm known to be a little? bull-headed at times, but I will change if I see good reason. Thanks. Big Lar. ---------- > From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Powerfin prop > Date: Thursday, June 11, 1998 3:46 PM > > Powerfin must be doing real good selling their props as they do not seem > to need my business. I have made several attempts to get a price on their > props but they prefer to ignore me. Does anyone have any experience with > this company? > > > > Woody > > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Engine Mounts
Date: Jun 11, 1998
Hi Dennis: Work is proceeding very slowly on my project right now, but not stopped. I'm getting a few of the more Knotty problems slowly resolved, and it's really looking good. If you still have that VW engine mount available for me to look at, I'd sure appreciate seeing it. Also, I asked before about your thoughts on dipping the rivets before popping them. It's kinda late for mine now, but future projects may benefit. Thanks. Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: NGB6011B(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 12, 1998
Subject: MARK 111
hello my name is gary blecha. in nampa idaho. i would like to here from any kolb mark 111 onwers. with bigger engines. i am using a 912. lookin for imformation on trim tabs do u need them or not diffent kinds ect. cab heat what r people using ect. handling of the mark 111 with a 912 on it. i have done a some taxi tests and it a bit squirrely. it maybe just me. what about carb heat some say u dont need it let some do. i am taxiing on a paved strip. i need to use my brakes alot. the plane moves fast even at a idle. what is the best way to take off and land. thank you gary. ps. what did u weigh in at if u have a 912. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 12 Jun 1998 09:31:16 UT (Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA5605;
Date: Jun 12, 1998
Subject: Re[2]: 1/2 VW
Don't know about his exact engine but the Global they used on the N3-Pup was supposed to put out horse power in that area but we found the claims to be a little optimistic. It is a little mimic on the N3-Pup. To get the HP, they have to crank rev's, that goes back to a smaller prop for tip speed. My partner put Mosler heads on his and that helped some but the climb was still marginal. Our FireFly is like an elevator ride compared to it. Weight is the next problem. Interesting there was a video by Christine Aero Engines (sp). They had shots of an N3-Pup with their claimed 40-HP engine. They never gave you a shot of the take off roll, only fly bys and over heads shots. Nothing you could get any clue of the actual climb performance. We backed off pursuing an engine after seeing it. The best we've seen is the HKS and then we wonder if they really achieves what they claim. But $7200 for 2-cylinders is just a bit much. Anybody know much about the Davis engine if I recall the name right. If it makes the numbers they claim it would be good but I sure would like to see something flying with one first. They advertised in UL Flyer for a couple month, then there was also a editorial write up someone claiming they didn't perform as claimed but I found there story didn't provide much detail to substantiate that claim. So was it a hatchet job or was there merit to their story. Let me know when you find something. Jerry ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 1/2 VW Date: 6/11/98 11:03 AM On Wed, 10 Jun 1998, Philip A Jahnke wrote: > Has anyone mounted the 1/2 VW on a firestar or firefly airframe? I am wondering what type of performance one could get from this matchup. > The 1/2vw looks attractive at first blush. It can be built up to = or less weight than a 447 according to Bob Moore (http://www.win.net/~letsfly/4stroke.html). He initially had it at 83 lbs, and dropped that by making his own thin-wall stainless exhaust stacks. I emailed Bob once after looking at his pages and other 1/2vw info. Bob said that the 1/2vw maxes at ~35+hp. That compromise, from 40hp 447, isn't too bad. But he said he can get up to 35+hp only by spinning a prop no bigger than 54x24. This would really lack in Uuumph effect compared to normal 66x3_ on a 447'd Kolb FS. -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Gerken <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Powerfin prop, prop decisions...
Date: Jun 12, 1998
Woody (and interested others): PowerFin has a home page at http://www.everett.net/users/expat/index.htm There you will find their 800 number and complete price list. I have had good luck reaching them by phone, except last fall when the owner had been injured and was out of the office for a month. Someone else was covering but he was swamped. I have used a 3-blade 66" ground-adjustable Powerfin for 26 hours on the 582 with "C" box, and I like it. I had decided on a Warp until a local guy who ran Warp had to rebuild his "B" gearbox because of the mass of the prop. Then I started looking for something lighter but did not want the extreme flexibility of Ivo ( I had run an Ultraprop in the past on a 377 so I hate extreme flexibility). I found the PowerFin somehow, called up the factory and spoke with the owner Stuart Gort, very knowledgable and open with information (refreshing change), who explained enough to me that I could tell he knew his stuff. Stuart apparently came from Ivo Co. so he was not new to the business, even though the prop is only a few years old. He told me he set out to design a prop with flexibility approx halfway between Warp and Ivo, and keep weight very low. I believe he has achieved that goal. Performance is great, adjustability is infinite, weight is very low (I remember 6.5 lbs for the whole thing including hub and hardware, the blades themselves are lite as feathers almost), and it runs smooth. Balance is excellent. Each blade came with two numbers stamped on the root, weight in grams as measured at each end. All six numbers are within 0.4 grams of each other on my three blades. The finish is beautiful. The Powerfin uses a true airfoil shape, with leading edges that are not knife edges, as some others. This gives more efficiency, as a "compression bead is formed ahead of the leading edge and causes more of the blade to produce lift" they tell me. Service after the sale has been good, I damaged the prop slightly by running some small stones and sand thru it, sent it back for inspection and they promptly repaired the small nicks and applied new leading edge tape without charge. Powerfin is located in Arlington Washington, on a huge ultralight airfield there. Plan on buying a Warp protractor for setup, unless Stuart has inproved his pitch-setting tool. It has no markings on it and is not accurate enough to suit me. I borrowed one from a guy who no longer uses it 'cause his Warp is a wall ornament. Adjustability is a great feature, it is nice to be able to set it up correctly for the first flight, then as the engine breaks in and gets more power, you can keep advancing. I advanced 0.75 degrees four times until I reached my current setting. Actually I went too far and came back, and settled on 17 degrees 45 minutes, plus/minus five minutes as measured with Warp protractor, at the blade tips. The blades twist of course, so the tip is a good place to put the protractor. Once I checked the blades at 12 inches in from the tip and they all had the same twist (within the accuracy limits of the protractor), so now i just use the blade tips for setting them all the same. >>>>>>>>I am only a customer of Powerfin, not being compensated in any way. If I was not happy with the product, believe me, you would be reading it here in graphic and abusive detail.<<<<<<<<< Another prop to look into very seriously (and the only other one I would consider) is Arplast. I had heard they were too expensive for my budget but now I am not so sure. They are apparently made in italy?, and here is a link to a distributor: http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown/pages/arp1.htm and here is the British Microlight home page: http://ns1.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/dimpeng.htm Most guys will tell you (and I have to agree) that the most efficient prop is a two-blade wood prop. Wood is tough to beat and is not too heavy so could be run on a "B" box. I have used up four wood props on a previous "vehicle" and decided I wanted something a little more durable. I hated the constant maintenance of the finish, balance issues in humid weather, and non-adjustability of wood. Once I decided on adjustability (and associated mass) I was committed to a "C" box. The extra bearing strength in the "C" box is also very desirable. Another good thing to understand would be the information in the CPS catalog on Prop inertia. Good luck in your research, this is the most important decision you will make concerning final performance of your aircraft. Jim owner-kolb(at)intrig.com on 06-11-98 05:54:15 PM Please respond to owner-kolb(at)intrig.com cc: Subject: Kolb-List: Powerfin prop Powerfin must be doing real good selling their props as they do not seem to need my business. I have made several attempts to get a price on their props but they prefer to ignore me. Does anyone have any experience with this company? Woody ________________________________________________________________________________ (Netscape Mail Server v2.01) with SMTP id AAA168
From: LLMoore(at)tapnet.net (Lauren L. Moore)
Subject: Trim Tab..
Date: Jun 12, 1998
Hello Kolbers, I am going to ask a probably very stupid question. When I was an RC enthusiast I put trim tabs on the various surfaces which were held in place by the servo tension. In order to get a positive or upward action from an elevator I put an upward throw on the trim tab..but..with my Kolb trim tab, I believe its the opposite way. To achieve positive throw from the elevator(upward) I think I have to bend downward on the trim tab to allow slipstream pressure to make the elevator more positive naturally. Is this theory correct?
    Hello Kolbers,  I am going to ask a probably very stupid question.  When I was an RC enthusiast I put trim tabs on the various surfaces which were held in place by the servo tension.  In order to get a positive or upward action from an elevator I put an upward throw on the trim tab..but..with my Kolb trim tab, I believe its the opposite way.  To achieve positive throw from the elevator(upward) I think I have to bend downward on the trim tab to allow slipstream pressure to make the elevator more positive naturally.  Is this theory correct? 
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Trim Tab..
> Hello Kolbers, I am going to ask a probably very stupid question. When I was an RC enthusiast I put trim tabs on the various surfaces which were held in place by the servo tension. In order to get a positive or upward action from an elevator I put an upward throw on the trim tab..but..with my Kolb trim tab, I believe its the opposite way. To achieve positive throw from the elevator(upward) I think I have to bend downward on the trim tab to allow slipstream pressure to make the elevator more positive naturally. Is this theory correct? Yes it is. Think of the trim tab as being a very little "elevator" that moves the surface. If the tab points down, it moves the surface up, and vice versa. On the rudder, if the tab is to the right, it moves the rudder left, and vice versa. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 1998
Subject: Re: 1/2 VW
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
> >...but he also >converted it to a tractor configuration. To me this deleted one of the >main attractions of a Kolb (pusher config.).... If I remember right, the main reason for putting the motor up front was for ease of starting (hand propping). It would be a safety as well as a nuisance issue to be constantly ducking under the wing to start it if left in the pusher config. Just happens that the 'Engine Q&A' series in the June 'Experimenter' mentions a pull starter for a 1/2 VW that Bill Bronson (one of the 'gurus' who write the column) built once upon a time. This just might breath life into an idea I've had for a long time. My Flyer has twin Solo engines which put-out a total of about 22 hp max. Its direct drive props (36" diameter) make an ear-splitting noise (the neighbors hate me!). I'd love to replace them (Solos, not neighbors) with a slow turning, Harley-sounding 4 stroker. Hmmm.... Maybe I should finish the Twinstar before starting yet another project(?). -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Trim Tab..
>>>> Hello Kolbers, I am going to ask a probably very stupid question. When I was an RC enthusiast I put trim tabs on the various surfaces which were held in place by the servo tension. In order to get a positive or upward action from an elevator I put an upward throw on the trim tab..but..with my Kolb trim tab, I believe its the opposite way. To achieve positive throw from the elevator(upward) I think I have to bend downward on the trim tab to allow slipstream pressure to make the elevator more positive naturally. Is this theory correct? <<<<<<<< Your idea on the Kolb is correct: the trim moves the control surface and the control surface moves the airplane. The RC is no different. A plane is a plane is a plane. If you trimmed for up elevator on the RC it was either doing some electronic magic in the radio/servo that you couldn't see, or, if there was a real, controllable trim tab, it could only have been doing the same thing you referred to above with the Kolb. RCs were the first kind of 'fly-by-wire' planes. :-) -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AMAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 13, 1998
Subject: Re: Powerfin prop
Hey Woody I got him on the phone and got the cocky IVO patter from whence he interned ---he promised to send literature and pricing two months ago which has never showed up. I'll aim my customers to Warp or Precision at least til the swelling goes out of his head. Russ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 1998
From: alice berrie <rberrie(at)snet.net>
Subject: New to list
I have enjoyed reading from the builders list for about a month. I picked up a lot of useful information. I am a private pilot building a mark 3. Went to the kolb factory 11/97 and flew in the demo mark 3, ordered the kit at that time. received kit 1/21/98. I am retired and was able to devote a lot of time to the building process. It is ready to be painted when and if the weather alows here in the northeast. received word friday that my engine [912] is in. Will pick it up at kolb's on wed or thur of next week, also taking a couple of lessons with Dan in the demo mark 3. Keep the information coming. Bob Berrie Higganum, CT. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: brian.p.fox(at)ac.com
Date: Jun 13, 1998
Subject: Mark III build time
Hi All, I'm the new guy to the list, I posted my intro a week ago or so. I just received the $5 info pack from Kolb and spent some time reading "The Book of Kolb" and looking over the various models. I like the Mark III. As a current Cessna 150 part-owner (I have the flying part) I want to continue to take others with me when I fly and the Mark III looks like the best bet. For my $5, information was included about a new 2-place low-wing tractor model called the Laser, but I want the visibility of the pusher design. Anyway, I'm curious about the build time for the Mark III. Kolb says about 500-550 hours in the literature and a couple of web pages of people who are building/or built a Mark III that I looked at sounded in line with that. One builder however noted a build time of 1,795 hours! ! ! What have some of you experienced? I'm also looking to be simple with a 503 engine installation without an electrical system. I want to try it without the electrical system first and then add it if I find I want it. My plan - and admitedly it is in VERY early stages - is to build it simply, get it flying and then tweak it over time. Comments?? By the way, I neglected in my first posting to note where I'm from. I live in PA (so I'll be paying the sales tax on the purchase) just outside of Lancaster, PA. I'm about 50-60 minutes from Phoenixville and hope to get out there one of these Saturdays sometime soon. I fly my 150 out of Smoketown (37PA) airport. If any of you are ever plan on being in the area and expect to drop into Smoketown please let me know. Thanks! Brian ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Re: Intro
>Snip >... BTW- I >>bet if you told us where you were at, someone could give you an up-close >tour of >>a Kolb. Anyone near Dallas, Tx. or traveling there is welcome to come see my MKIII out at Aero-country Airport near McKinney. The only problem is I am out of town a lot. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel Kolb MKIII - N582CC (43.3 hrs) ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III build time
>Hi All, >I'm the new guy to the list, I posted my intro a week ago or so. >Anyway, I'm curious about the build time for the Mark III. Kolb says about >500-550 hours in the literature and a couple of web pages of people who are >building/or built a Mark III that I looked at sounded in line with that. >One builder however noted a build time of 1,795 hours! ! ! What have some >of you experienced? > If you build it without any modifications, and you have any u/l building experience, or are good with hand tools, you will find it builds pretty fast. IMHO it builds a lot faster than it covers and paints. But maybe that's me. I thought it was easy to build. >I'm also looking to be simple with a 503 engine installation without an >electrical system. I want to try it without the electrical system first and >then add it if I find I want it. My plan - and admitedly it is in VERY >early stages - is to build it simply, get it flying and then tweak it over >time. Comments?? > > Unless you weigh less than 130 pounds, and your wife is less than 100, I would not use a 503, even if you build it light. A fella down the road from me about 40 miles built a very simple, light and clean MKIII with a 503 and was very disappointed. It is currently for sale, because it climbs poorly, and takes almost full power to sustain cruise. Go for the 582. I am using a 532, and have spent the last 7 months trying to get the airplane to fly more effeciently with the 64 HP available. Don't get me wrong, I would not trade it for anything else on the market, but it is a horsepower sponge. There are some mods that apparently enhance the effeciency of the airplane, but will wait on details until the air settles to where I can come up with some true figures for the changes. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Intro
>Anyone near Dallas, Tx. or traveling there is welcome to come see my MKIII >out at Aero-country Airport near McKinney. The only problem is I am out of >town a lot. > >Later, > >-- >Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist >(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas >and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel Hello Striplings: I want to see your MK III. I will be flying out to Dallas in about a week to make the Lake Texoma Flyin and visit an old Special Forces buddy in Plano. My Brother Jim will be flying with me. We plan to base out of Air Park-Dallas, Plano, Tx. This will be 8 miles from our mutual friend's home. How far are you from Air Park-Dallas? Anyone else in the Dallas area interested in Kolbs? Let me know. We will probably stay til we wear out our welcome, a few days, at least for the flyin weekend, 26-28 Jun 98. I plan to fly up to Lake Texoma rather than camp up there. Let me know what you all have going on in the area. Look fwd to the flt. Haven't been to Texas since the big flt 4 yrs ago. The Dallas/FW area and Ft Wolters are near and dear to me. I learned to fly, did my first solo in a TH-55, Sep 1968, almost 30 yrs ago. Time flies also. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 1998
Subject: Re: 1/2 VW
From: rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT)
Mick I have a friend that has a flyer with the twin solo's ,you may know him his name Del Cross, he lives in Groves ,Texas . What he done was ,he came up with a gear reduction unit this lets the engines turn larger props and boy did it ever shorten his take off roll,as far as the sound it did change from the high wining to a lower tone RICK writes: >writes: >> >>...but he also >>converted it to a tractor configuration. To me this deleted one of >the >>main attractions of a Kolb (pusher config.).... > >If I remember right, the main reason for putting the motor up front >was for ease of starting (hand propping). It would be a safety as well >as a nuisance issue to be constantly ducking under the wing to start >it if left in the pusher config. > >Just happens that the 'Engine Q&A' series in the June 'Experimenter' >mentions a pull starter for a 1/2 VW that Bill Bronson (one of the >'gurus' who write the column) built once upon a time. This just might >breath life into an idea I've had for a long time. > >My Flyer has twin Solo engines which put-out a total of about 22 hp >max. Its direct drive props (36" diameter) make an ear-splitting noise >(the neighbors hate me!). I'd love to replace them (Solos, not >neighbors) with a slow turning, Harley-sounding 4 stroker. Hmmm.... > >Maybe I should finish the Twinstar before starting yet another >project(?). > > >-Mick Fine >Tulsa, Oklahoma >http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair >Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) >http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 14, 1998
Subject: Re: 1/2 VW
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: >Mick > >I have a friend that has a flyer with the twin solo's ,you may know >him his name Del Cross, he lives in Groves ,Texas . What he done was >,he came up with a gear reduction unit this lets the engines turn >larger props and boy did it ever shorten his take off roll,as far as >the sound it did change from the high wining to a lower tone > > > RICK Yes, Del's an old friend although I haven't seen him since S&F '96. He's sort of THE guy to ask if you own a Flyer, whatever idea you can come up with, Del's probably already tried it! For the rest of the list, Del's orange & white Flyer is a perennial at both S&F and Oshkosh. Rick, could you please make sure Del knows about the Texoma fly-in, June 26-28. I'd love to see those re-drives! -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 14, 1998
Subject: Re: 1/2 VW
From: rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT)
Mick I sure will I'll give him a call tonight .And let you know RICK >writes: >>Mick >> >>I have a friend that has a flyer with the twin solo's ,you may know >>him his name Del Cross, he lives in Groves ,Texas . What he done was >>,he came up with a gear reduction unit this lets the engines turn >>larger props and boy did it ever shorten his take off roll,as far as > >>the sound it did change from the high wining to a lower tone >> >> >> RICK > >Yes, Del's an old friend although I haven't seen him since S&F '96. >He's sort of THE guy to ask if you own a Flyer, whatever idea you can >come up with, Del's probably already tried it! For the rest of the >list, Del's orange & white Flyer is a perennial at both S&F and >Oshkosh. > >Rick, could you please make sure Del knows about the Texoma fly-in, >June 26-28. I'd love to see those re-drives! > > >-Mick Fine >Tulsa, Oklahoma >http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair >Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) >http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 1998
From: Jhann Gestur Jhannsson <johann.g(at)centrum.is>
Subject: Rotax acting up.
Hi Kolbers. I have been having problems with my Rotax engine lately. It started a few days ago, when I was getting ready for take off, doing my pre-flight check on the two ignitions( I have the 503 dcdi) when one ignition was not working. I call it no.1 , the spark plugs that are in the front. Well, the ignition was not working. I checked all wires and connections, but did not find anything wrong. I replaced the spark plugs, they had about 10 hrs. of use. That did it... everything was working normal. This was strange, only the front spark plugs were not working, but the two aft were??? well the problem was solved. Last Friday after repalcing the broken wheel bearing, as you probably have heard of ( also strange) I was checking the ignitions and the same problem was back. After only two hrs. on the spark plugs, this could not be right. I did replace the plugs just to make sure but this did not solve my problem this time. Something that had been getting slowly worn, did brake. Electrical stuff, big problem I thought. I had built another Firestar, a few years ago, which had the same engine, so I talked to the buyer and he was so kind to let me remove the ignition for the front plugs, from his Firestar, which I did that, but this did not solve my problem. I was down to the last part to check, the pickup assy. for that ignition. I reinstalled the ignition and borrowed the pickup assy. YES. finally problem solved. But this engine has only about 14 hrs. total running time on it???? Another strange problem for me. I know this is a long story but I hope someone will learn something from it, and that is, DO NOT RUIN TWO GOOD DAYS OF FLYING,TRYING TO SOLVE A PROBLEM ON YOUR OWN. GET HELP. I lerned the hard way. But now I know how to check the pickup assy. Get a meter and test it. I did get 25 min of flying that evening, from 23:30 to 23:55. Great flying in a bright Icelandic night with the sun in my eyes. This is the time when we have continious bright day, no night. Fun time for flying all day and all night, no lights needed. Best regards from Iceland. Jhann G. ________________________________________________________________________________ (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with ESMTP
From: "Brad Houston" <HoustonBW(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Main Jet for Mikuni Carb
Date: Jun 14, 1998
Still lerking and love the information I am learning. Was able to fix two or three potential problems before they developed into something worse no doubt saving my Ultrastar from a fate worst than death. I recently replaced the carb due to a hole in one of the plastic floats. The carb runs to lean with a 270 jet (300 CHT and 1300 EGT) and bogs on top end with a 280 jet. I am currently seeking a 275 jet. Any suggestions? Thanks - Brad ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 14, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Main Jet for Mikuni Carb
Brad, Check the EGT gauge/sender. It it is correct, then I think that you have an intake leak. John Jung > >Brad Houston wrote: > > Still lerking and love the information I am learning. Was able to fix two > or three potential problems before they developed into something worse no > doubt saving my Ultrastar from a fate worst than death. I recently replaced > the carb due to a hole in one of the plastic floats. The carb runs to lean > with a 270 jet (300 CHT and 1300 EGT) and bogs on top end with a 280 jet. I > am currently seeking a 275 jet. Any suggestions? Thanks - Brad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Christensen" <spectruminternational(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III build time
Date: Jun 15, 1998
Hi Brian: I have spent over 1500 hours building my MKIII, however I hasten to add that I have make a lot of very time-consuming cosmetic changes. Also, I have made many, many parts more than once. I should think that if you build the airplane "out-of-the-box", the factory build-time estimates will be fairly close. Ron Christensen -----Original Message----- From: brian.p.fox(at)ac.com <brian.p.fox(at)ac.com> Date: Saturday, June 13, 1998 4:48 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III build time >Hi All, >I'm the new guy to the list, I posted my intro a week ago or so. I just >received the $5 info pack from Kolb and spent some time reading "The Book >of Kolb" and looking over the various models. I like the Mark III. As a >current Cessna 150 part-owner (I have the flying part) I want to continue >to take others with me when I fly and the Mark III looks like the best bet. >For my $5, information was included about a new 2-place low-wing tractor >model called the Laser, but I want the visibility of the pusher design. > >Anyway, I'm curious about the build time for the Mark III. Kolb says about >500-550 hours in the literature and a couple of web pages of people who are >building/or built a Mark III that I looked at sounded in line with that. >One builder however noted a build time of 1,795 hours! ! ! What have some >of you experienced? > >I'm also looking to be simple with a 503 engine installation without an >electrical system. I want to try it without the electrical system first and >then add it if I find I want it. My plan - and admitedly it is in VERY >early stages - is to build it simply, get it flying and then tweak it over >time. Comments?? > >By the way, I neglected in my first posting to note where I'm from. I live >in PA (so I'll be paying the sales tax on the purchase) just outside of >Lancaster, PA. I'm about 50-60 minutes from Phoenixville and hope to get >out there one of these Saturdays sometime soon. I fly my 150 out of >Smoketown (37PA) airport. If any of you are ever plan on being in the area >and expect to drop into Smoketown please let me know. > >Thanks! > Brian > > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 1998
rrsmr(at)zzzz4.net
From: Mike Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: aerobatics anyone?
I'm sure this isn't "going to fly" for anyone in *this* family, but FWIW, I saw an ad in the Sacramento Bee this a.m.: Acroduster I '96, 70 hrs TTAE, Lycoming 0-360, fully inverted, Ellison carb, Christen oil syst, smoke. Symmetrical wing, 4 aileron. wht/blue trim, beaut appearance, a delight to fly. $27,500/ofr 933-7743 (area 916 I assume). Please forward this to your flying buddies. All I ask is to be given a ride as a finder's commission. Appologies to Kolb list if this is out of scope. I like to dream, maybe a few of y'all do too. Mike Ransom mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu Programmer/Analyst, Dept of Agronomy & Range Science University of California, Davis U.S.A. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 1998
From: "Wally Hofmann" <whofmann(at)eudoramail.com>
Subject: RV4 fatal crash
After the interest the RV8 crash generated with this group, I thought you might want to know that there was another fatal crash yesterday (Sunday) near Sedona, Arizona. According to the local (Phoenix) news, an RV 4 hit a mountain killing the pilot (only one on board). That's all I know... ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Wally Hofmann Wickenburg, Arizona ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at http://www.eudoramail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 1998
From: Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us>
Subject: Garmin GPS
Does anyone have a e-mail or a phone number for Garmin? I would like an e-mail but I'll take anything. I have been calling a number someone gave me but the phone just rings without being answered. Thanks Gary ========================================================================= | Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us | | Souderton Pa. | | | | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only) | ========================================================================= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 1998
Subject: Kolb
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
Any ideas on how I can kept my Rotax 503 muffler from rusting? It is kept in the garage when not flying, and southern Calif. is not know for its humidity.(except for this years El Nino) The muffler can is pitted with tiny rust spots, not deep, just on the surface. I tried engine paint , but that only last about six months. I have a jar of Cermakote, but I'm reluctant to sand blast the muffler as the directions call for. One piece of sand in the engine is all I need! Thanks in advance. Bob Doebler bobdoebler(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 1998
From: Paul & Cheryl VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net>
Subject: New Builder
Hello everyone A good friend of mine and I ordered a MKIII and are awaiting it's arrival any day now. I have a question concerning the riveting of the 5/16" tubing. I have been helping another friend build a firestar from time to time and we seem to have had a problem when it comes to flattening the 5/16" tubing to 3/16" for rivet installation. No matter how we cut the tubing (hacksaw, bandsaw, etc.) it would crack when flattening it. Has anyone else ran into this problem or are we doing something wrong? All ideas are greatly welcomed. Thank you Paul VonLindern ________________________________________________________________________________ (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP
From: "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb
Date: Jun 15, 1998
Bob, Power Max Coatings (330) 484-6898 they did a gorgeous job on my 503 muffler, send springs and everything, you won't be disappointed. Geoff Thistlethwaite -----Original Message----- From: Robert L Doebler <bobdoebler(at)juno.com> Date: Monday, June 15, 1998 7:08 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb >Any ideas on how I can kept my Rotax 503 muffler from rusting? >It is kept in the garage when not flying, and southern Calif. is not know >for its humidity.(except for this years El Nino) The muffler can is >pitted with tiny rust spots, not deep, just on the surface. I tried >engine paint , but that only last about six months. I have a jar of >Cermakote, but I'm reluctant to sand blast the muffler as the directions >call for. One piece of sand in the engine is all I need! > >Thanks in advance. >Bob Doebler >bobdoebler(at)juno.com > >_____________________________________________________________________ >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com >Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] >- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)megalink.net>
Subject: Fw: New Builder / Cracked tubing problems
Date: Jun 15, 1998
-----Original Message----- From: Frank & Winnie Hodson <fwhodson(at)megalink.net> Date: Monday, June 15, 1998 9:35 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: New Builder >Dear Paul: > >I'm in the process of covering my FS II, and didn't seem to have any problem >with cracking. I don't think that I did anything special to particularly >avoid it either. > >1. I made all my cuts with a metal cut-off saw. >2. I flattened the ends of the tubing with a vice. >3. I rounded the ends off with a grinder. > >I think the most important thing was to avoid completely flattening the >tubing. It is not necessary, weakens the end of the tubing, and appears to >be the number one cause of cracking. Also avoid using a hammer of any kind >as the bending action is not gradual enough to avoid damage (the slow >gradual action allowed by a vice bending the tubing never caused cracking >unless I over flattened and stressed the metal) > > GOOD LUCK: > > Frank Hodson, Oxford ME > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Jun 15, 1998
Bob, I have a solution that works reasonably well. Take off the muffler, sand it down, clean it off with lacquer thinner, then spray paint it with 1500 deg flat-black spray paint. You can get this at any auto store. After the first two flights (the paint has to bake on), and every flight thereafter, wipe a light coating of "Armour-All" on it. This will protect it and keep it looking like new. Mine has no rust and I get asked what I do to keep it that way. It's 11 years old and now you know. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >Any ideas on how I can kept my Rotax 503 muffler from rusting? >It is kept in the garage when not flying, and southern Calif. is not >know for its humidity.(except for this years El Nino) The muffler can >is pitted with tiny rust spots, not deep, just on the surface. I tried >engine paint , but that only last about six months. I have a jar of >Cermakote, but I'm reluctant to sand blast the muffler as the >directions call for. One piece of sand in the engine is all I need! > >Thanks in advance. >Bob Doebler >bobdoebler(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 1998
Subject: Re: Garmin GPS
From: rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT)
GARY In have a garmin 90 and I like it I did have trouble with the power plug so I called them up talked to one of the tech. their very nice people ,sent the old plug back and they sent a new one down to me .Their # is 1-800-800-1020 Rick Libersat writes: > >Does anyone have a e-mail or a phone number for Garmin? I would like >an >e-mail but I'll take anything. I have been calling a number someone >gave >me but the phone just rings without being answered. > >Thanks > >Gary > >========================================================================= >| Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us > | >| Souderton Pa. | > | >| | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only) > | >========================================================================= > > > > > > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 1998
Subject: Re: Rotax acting up.
From: rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT)
Johann Glad to hear that you got your problem solved , this is the kind of information that the KOLB list can all use I know that I will remember this . Sure wish that I had the daylite / nightlite that you have so I could get in some more time in . Rick Libersat southeast , Texas writes: >Hi Kolbers. >I have been having problems with my Rotax engine lately. >It started a few days ago, when I was getting ready for take off, >doing >my pre-flight check on the two ignitions( I have the 503 dcdi) when >one >ignition was not working. I call it no.1 , the spark plugs that are in >the front. > >Well, the ignition was not working. I checked all wires and >connections, >but did not find anything wrong. I replaced the spark plugs, >they had about 10 hrs. of use. That did it... everything was working >normal. >This was strange, only the front spark plugs were not working, but the >two aft were??? well the problem was solved. > >Last Friday after repalcing the broken wheel bearing, as you probably >have heard of ( also strange) I was checking the ignitions and the >same >problem was back. After only two hrs. on the spark plugs, this could >not >be right. I did replace the plugs just to make sure but this did not >solve my problem this time. Something that had been getting slowly >worn, >did brake. Electrical stuff, big problem I thought. > >I had built another Firestar, a few years ago, which had the same >engine, so I talked to the buyer and he was so kind to let me remove >the >ignition for the front plugs, from his Firestar, which I did that, but >this did not solve my problem. >I was down to the last part to check, the pickup assy. for that >ignition. I reinstalled the ignition and borrowed the pickup assy. >YES. finally problem solved. But this engine has only about 14 hrs. >total running time on it???? Another strange problem for me. > >I know this is a long story but I hope someone will learn something >from >it, and that is, DO NOT RUIN TWO GOOD DAYS OF FLYING,TRYING TO SOLVE >A >PROBLEM ON YOUR OWN. GET HELP. I lerned the hard way. But now I know >how to check the pickup assy. Get a meter and test it. > >I did get 25 min of flying that evening, from 23:30 to 23:55. Great >flying in a bright Icelandic night with the sun in my eyes. This is >the >time when we have continious bright day, no night. Fun time for flying >all day and all night, no lights needed. > >Best regards from Iceland. > >Jhann G. >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: New Builder
Date: Jun 16, 1998
You're flattening the tubing too much. Look at the instructions again, and the length of the rivets. Flatten only enough to get proper bite with the rivets. Big Lar. ---------- > From: Paul & Cheryl VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net> > To: Kolb Mailing list > Subject: New Builder > Date: Monday, June 15, 1998 5:02 PM > > Hello everyone > > A good friend of mine and I ordered a MKIII and are awaiting it's > arrival any day now. I have a question concerning the riveting of the > 5/16" tubing. I have been helping another friend build a firestar from > time to time and we seem to have had a problem when it comes to > flattening the 5/16" tubing to 3/16" for rivet installation. No matter > how we cut the tubing (hacksaw, bandsaw, etc.) it would crack when > flattening it. Has anyone else ran into this problem or are we doing > something wrong? > > All ideas are greatly welcomed. > > Thank you > Paul VonLindern > > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BICUM(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 16, 1998
Subject: Corrosion Precautions
Hey Group, I received my Mark III Kit 1 a few days ago and in the process of organizing and getting started. I was wondering what steps were taking by any of you to prevent corrosion. I have seen previous threads on dipping rivets prior to installation but don't remember the details. I do know that whatever is used has to be compatible with the covering materials. Nothing is mentioned in the builders manual about corrosion concerns. I live in south Louisiana where the only thing higher than the humidity is the temperature. Not sure if this is a real concern. I'd like this craft to last me quite some time ( at least till I can no longer get a medical). Do production aircraft prime inside structures? Thanks, John Bickham Mark III Parts Owner St. Francisville, LA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: " Jim Hanson" <jdhanson(at)ptd.net>
Subject: Airport access
Date: Jun 16, 1998
There was a lot of talk earlier about airport access with regards to ultralights.... There is an excellent article in the June, 98 issue of the EAA Experimenter magazine, the was a reprint of an article that first appeared in Ultralight Magazine. The article was written by Dr. Anthony J. Romanazzi, who apparently went through this process to get access.
There was a lot of talk earlier about airport access with regards to ultralights....
There is an excellent article in the June, 98 issue of the EAA Experimenter magazine, the was a reprint of an article that first appeared in Ultralight Magazine.  The article was written by Dr. Anthony J. Romanazzi, who apparently went through this process to get access.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Garmin GPS
From: pl4coop(at)juno.com (robert w. cooper)
hi gary - can't help with e-mail address, but can offer the following: www.headsetsinc.com hope this helps! Bob Cooper Newfield, NJ writes: > >Does anyone have a e-mail or a phone number for Garmin? I would like >an >e-mail but I'll take anything. I have been calling a number someone >gave >me but the phone just rings without being answered. > >Thanks > >Gary > >========================================================================= >| Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us > | >| Souderton Pa. | > | >| | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only) > | >========================================================================= > > > > > > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________ (InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP
From: "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: New Builder
Date: Jun 16, 1998
Put a 3/16ths bolt in a vice, you can tape it in or on just make sure the jaws of the vice can't close any more than the shank of the bolt. this worked for me Geoff Thistlethwaite -----Original Message----- From: Paul & Cheryl VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net> Date: Monday, June 15, 1998 7:17 PM Subject: Kolb-List: New Builder >Hello everyone > >A good friend of mine and I ordered a MKIII and are awaiting it's >arrival any day now. I have a question concerning the riveting of the >5/16" tubing. I have been helping another friend build a firestar from >time to time and we seem to have had a problem when it comes to >flattening the 5/16" tubing to 3/16" for rivet installation. No matter >how we cut the tubing (hacksaw, bandsaw, etc.) it would crack when >flattening it. Has anyone else ran into this problem or are we doing >something wrong? > >All ideas are greatly welcomed. > >Thank you >Paul VonLindern > >- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLSOUDER(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Kolb
<< To: kolb(at)intrig.com Bob, I have a solution that works reasonably well. (snip -snip[) Mine has no rust and I get asked what do to keep it that way. It's 11 years old and now you know ... the rest of the story Sorry couldn't help myself! Dennis ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: New Builder
On Mon, 15 Jun 1998, Paul & Cheryl VonLindern wrote: > Hello everyone > A good friend of mine and I ordered a MKIII and are awaiting it's > arrival any day now. I have a question concerning the riveting of the > 5/16" tubing. I have been helping another friend build a firestar from > time to time and we seem to have had a problem when it comes to > flattening the 5/16" tubing to 3/16" for rivet installation. No matter > how we cut the tubing (hacksaw, bandsaw, etc.) it would crack when > flattening it. Has anyone else ran into this problem or are we doing > something wrong? It should help to smooth (chamfer) the cut end before squashing it. (Chamfer inside edge with drill bit too.) Also, if necessary, don't squash quite as much. A rivet in a split end is a lose part ...much worse than not quite getting to 3/16". Good luck! - Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillU(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 16, 1998
Subject: Squeezing 5/16 tubes
Hi Paul I had this same problem when I squeezed the tube too much. I used two 3/16 drill bits as spacers to prevent the vice from over squeezing the ends. Used masking tape to gage how deep to slide the tube in the vice. Bought a sears vice with reversible jaws and flipped the jaws to the smooth sides. Here is a picture on how I flattened my tubes. http://members.aol.com/fs2kolb/pictures/16.jpg Good luck Will Uribe Building a Fire Star II http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html << I have been helping another friend build a firestar from time to time and we seem to have had a problem when it comes to flattening the 5/16" tubing to 3/16" for rivet installation. No matter how we cut the tubing (hacksaw, bandsaw, etc.) it would crack when flattening it. Has anyone else ran into this problem or are we doing something wrong? >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 1998
From: "Richard neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us>
Subject: Static Source
As testing continues with my VW powered Kolb MKIII I have had one major problem I can't seem to get around. The airspeed indicator is almost useless. I suspect that I'm not getting a good static source. I originally= had a source 4 inches out in front of my nose cone. I reworked the pitot and static probes so that the static is now 9 inches out in front of the nose cone with no impact. I'm almost ready to try unhooking the static so that the source will be inside the cockpit but my cockpit is fully enclosed and I have snap vents for people cooling that will cause the airspeed to change based on their operation. I have a G.P.S. and it works fine without the engine running but after startup I can't seem to get it to connect to the satellites so I can't compare to its speeds yet. My indicated flying speeds are 30-50KTS. The low end seems close???? but the high end just doesn't seem or feel right. One other concern is landing speed on touch down. I know my landing speed is high but without accurate airspeed indications... My question is flaps, do they significantly reduce landing speeds? I never got to use them on the flights at the factory and was warned not to until I got comfortable with the plane. I do remember John Hauck giving me a demo flight at Sun and Fun were he landed using full flaps and stopped in what seemed like 10 feet. Thanks for any help you can give me. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Static Source
On Tue, 16 Jun 1998, Richard neilsen wrote: > As testing continues with my VW powered Kolb MKIII I have had one major problem I can't seem to get around. The airspeed indicator is almost useless. I suspect that I'm not getting a good static source. I originally had a source 4 inches out in front o f my nose cone. I reworked the pitot and static probes so that the static is now 9 inches out in front of the nose cone with no impact. I'm almost ready to try unhooking the static so that the source will be inside the cockpit but my cockpit is fully encl osed and I have snap vents for people cooling that will cause the airspeed to change based on their operation. I have a G.P.S. and it works fine without the engine running but after startup I can't seem to get it to connect to the satellites so I can't co mpare to its speeds yet. My indicated flying speeds are 30-50KTS. The low end seems close???? but the high end just doesn't seem or feel right. Richard, A good static source seems to be the holy grail. Russell Duffy and I amused(?) ourselves no end trying to get a good one. Mine was originally perfect when I had no side panels -- i.e. just the front wind screen (on a Firestar), and this was just with the static port open on the back of the gauge. Adding side panels ruined all that. I've tried fancier options out in front -- no luck. Next for me is trying side ports somewhere back along the cockpit. If you see a FS flying around with a bunch of holes punched thru the side every 6", that's me. :-) - Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________ release (PO205-101c) ID# 605-45218U5000L500S0) with SMTP
From: "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)intermediatn.net>
Subject: Re: Static Source
Date: Jun 16, 1998
Richard, I designed my own external static port which has worked very well. Here are some details. One end of a12" long by 1/4" od Al tube is crushed closed, smoothed and sealed with epoxy just to be sure it is tight. 7" from the closed end are drilled 4 holes of 1/16" diameter at 90 degrees from each other around the tube. The open end of the tube is inserted into the plastic tube connected to the static opening on my airspeed indicator. When the 4 holes were only 3-1/2" from the closed end it did not seem to work as well, but that was not tested thouroghly. Also, my pitot tube is fastened tight against the static tube, and both tubes have 90 degree bends near their base ends because they fit through the side of my Firestar II's nose cone. This arrangement has worked very well for me over the last several years. I also have a tightly closed cabin with variable venting. With the system, the airspeed indication seems very reproducible (checked by GPS) and reliable. -----Original Message----- From: Richard neilsen <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> Date: Tuesday, June 16, 1998 6:16 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Static Source As testing continues with my VW powered Kolb MKIII I have had one major problem I can't seem to get around. The airspeed indicator is almost useless. I suspect that I'm not getting a good static source. I originally had a source 4 inches out in front of my nose cone. I reworked the pitot and static probes so that the static is now 9 inches out in front of the nose cone with no impact. I'm almost ready to try unhooking the static so that the source will be inside the cockpit but my cockpit is fully enclosed and I have snap vents for people cooling that will cause the airspeed to change based on their operation. I have a G.P.S. and it works fine without the engine running but after startup I can't seem to get it to connect to the satellites so I can't compare to its speeds yet. My indicated flying speeds are 30-50KTS. The low end seems close???? but the high end just doesn't seem or feel right. One other concern is landing speed on touch down. I know my landing speed is high but without accurate airspeed indications... My question is flaps, do they significantly reduce landing speeds? I never got to use them on the flights at the factory and was warned not to until I got comfortable with the plane. I do remember John Hauck giving me a demo flight at Sun and Fun were he landed using full flaps and stopped in what seemed like 10 feet. Thanks for any help you can give me. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Static Source
>Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 13:45:22 -0500 >To: "Richard neilsen" >From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> >Subject: Re: Static Source >In-Reply-To: > >>As testing continues with my VW powered Kolb MKIII I have had one major problem I can't seem to get around. The airspeed indicator is almost useless. I suspect that I'm not getting a good > > > >Howdy Richard: > >I use my flaps on every landing I make because I like to touch down slow and have a short roll out. I do this for several reasons, it is fun, I stay tuned up for a short landing in the event of eng out, I fly out of very short fields. The one exception is when I land in strong gusty cross winds, or get caught on the edge of a thunderstorm and am really getting knocked around. I'll argue with anyone about landing with flaps and the best argument is let's go fly and I'll try and demonstrate it to you. > >If I was hauling a VW engine around I think I would use flaps. I might even consider using a notch of flaps on takeoff, especially out of a grass field. In tall grass, soft field, etc., my MK III that weighs in at about 630 lbs (Dennis S. weighed it on my way through Kolb's in '94), will break ground at 30 MPH indicated. I start t/o roll with flaps up, pop them all the way down as the ASI swings thru 30, stay in ground effect momentarily to gain a few MPH, and slowly raise the flaps. Works good for me. > >As I was told by the "Steve Whitman" when I asked him what kind of static system he used: NONE. He felt that true ASI was not that important in that indicated a/s would be the same for stall and that was the most important function. I agree with Steve. > >I worked out a system with my airplane to true up static pressure. I use a PT-17 pitot/static system built by Kolsman for WWII Stearman and Boeing biplane trainers. I thought I had my static problem solved until I flew the first time. Too much static pressure caused the ASI to be about 10-15 MPH slow. I was really disappointed. I cut the plastic static tubing under the seat and used 1/4 inch alum tubing as a splice. I made up about 5 or 6 alum tubes with graduating holes from 1/6 to 1/8, by 1/64. Started with the smallest. Flew 180 deg flight paths at same altitude and 80 MPH indicated. Added the two indicated AS and divided by two. Still low. Kept this up until I had the indicated AS and true AS within a mile or two of each other. It worked. > >It works for me. Good luck with your plane and be careful. > >john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Geneva, Alabama, Flyin
This weekend, 19,20, and 21 Jun 98, is the Flyin at Geneva, Alabama. It will be held at Geneva Airport (33J). Saturday night is the big Fish Fry (catfish by Don and Ruby Wilson) yum, yum!!! Worth the flight from anywhere just for this meal. This is the 7th annual flyin. Previous to this year it was held at Don and Ruby's airstrip at the home. Number 1, good ole southern hospitality. I'll be there with Miss P'fer is the Lord's willing and the creek don't rise. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 1998
From: Paul & Cheryl VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net>
Subject: Thank You
I would like to say thank you to everyone who replied to my question concerning flattening the 5/16" tubing. The response was overwhelming, I now have many tips concerning this subject. I can see that this mailing list is going to be invaluable during the constructing and flying of our Mark III. Thank You All Again By the way whom ever is keeping the map of Kolb owners and builders up to date, you can add us up here in Whitefish, Montana ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 1998
From: Mike Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Static Source
edu> This is a subject that I find kinda cool. The neutral pressure point around an airfoil (where airspeed matches true airspeed) is pretty close to the front, like at about 5-10% of the chord (further back when max chord is further back). Take a look out the window at the airline terminal and you'll see pitot tubes a few feet back from the nose on the big jets--at the neutral pressure point. You could have your dynamic port at the very tip of the nose with little or no tube and your static port somewhere about "5%" back. I'm seeing Vince's post as I write this, and it sounds like he's taking the other approach, that of getting dynamic pressure at the tip of a pitot tube (ram air) and the static at the side of a similar tube (in front of the nose). I guess this works as long as the static port is far enough out in front of the plane that it's not influenced much by the increased pressure near the front of the nose. >From the book that I've got next to me (by Alex Strojnik, "Low Power Laminar Aircraft Design") the sailplane fanatics use an opening in the tip of the nose for their dynamic pressure--and for cockpit ventilation--and do a trial and error location of the neutral pressure point, where they drill a tiny hole in the side for a static port. I guess you could drill one, compare with the GPS, then drill again, forward if your speed reads too high, back if too low. Ben's problem when he added more side panel was that he was effectively moving his static port back. If you want accurate measurements that are more independent of yaw (eg. during slip) you can link holes located at the neutral point on both sides of the 'fuse to use for your static port. That's why the airliners have a matched pair of pitots, one on each side--in fact, there's two pairs: one lower down and angled down more, for accurate readings at high angle of attack. (They're picky!) All of this is actually absurd for *me* to be talking about, however. My plane (Ultrastar) has no enclosure save for the instrument pod itself. And I've got a venturi system. The position of my *foot* changes the readings a bit! The problems I've run into (pre-flight items!) are the angle of the venturi and spider webs. (even the tiniest webs throw it off pertty bad) -Mike >On Tue, 16 Jun 1998, Richard neilsen wrote: > >> As testing continues with my VW powered Kolb MKIII I have had one major problem I can't seem to get around. The airspeed indicator is almost useless. I suspect that I'm not getting a good static source. I originally had a source 4 inches out in front o >f my nose cone. I reworked the pitot and static probes so that the static is now 9 inches out in front of the nose cone with no impact. I'm almost ready to try unhooking the static so that the source will be inside the cockpit but my cockpit is fully encl >osed and I have snap vents for people cooling that will cause the airspeed to change based on their operation. I have a G.P.S. and it works fine without the engine running but after startup I can't seem to get it to connect to the satellites so I can't co >mpare to its speeds yet. My indicated flying speeds are 30-50KTS. The low end seems close???? but the high end just doesn't seem or feel right. > >Richard, >A good static source seems to be the holy grail. Russell Duffy and I >amused(?) ourselves no end trying to get a good one. Mine was originally >perfect when I had no side panels -- i.e. just the front wind screen >(on a Firestar), and this was just with the static port open on the >back of the gauge. Adding side panels ruined all that. I've tried >fancier options out in front -- no luck. Next for me is trying >side ports somewhere back along the cockpit. If you see a FS flying >around with a bunch of holes punched thru the side every 6", that's >me. :-) > >- Ben Ransom > >- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: New Builder
>Hello everyone > >A good friend of mine and I ordered a MKIII and are awaiting it's >arrival any day now. I have a question concerning the riveting of the >5/16" tubing. I have been helping another friend build a firestar from >time to time and we seem to have had a problem when it comes to >flattening the 5/16" tubing to 3/16" for rivet installation. No matter >how we cut the tubing (hacksaw, bandsaw, etc.) it would crack when >flattening it. Has anyone else ran into this problem or are we doing >something wrong? > >All ideas are greatly welcomed. It cracks when you over squash it. What I did was grind the teeth off a pair of vice grips and adjusted the grips so it would only squash down so far that the tubes don't crack. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Corrosion Precautions
Date: Jun 16, 1998
Hi John: I started my Mk III long before I had a computer, and access to all the info on this group. Painting seemed "iffy" to me, since movement of parts during assembly, and later during flight might wear bare spots. Maybe the paint would get scratched. Maybe the fabric wouldn't stick just right. At the very least, the way I go about learning things the hard way, it could wind up being a huge amount of work. So I read the ads in Kit Planes, about this oily wax, or waxy oil, or whatever, that you spray into the completed structure. It's supposed to be a good wetting agent, find its' way into all the little cracks and crevises, then as it sets up it leaves a waxy residue that doesn't harden or chip off. The one I checked out is called ABF - 50, and tho' I talked to a guy in Hawaii, there's a distributor in San Bernardino, CA. named Frank Reed at 909-882-9942. Food for thought. Big Lar. ---------- > From: BICUM(at)aol.com > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Corrosion Precautions > Date: Tuesday, June 16, 1998 3:24 AM > > Hey Group, > > I received my Mark III Kit 1 a few days ago and in the process of organizing > and getting started. I was wondering what steps were taking by any of you to > prevent corrosion. I have seen previous threads on dipping rivets prior to > installation but don't remember the details. I do know that whatever is used > has to be compatible with the covering materials. Nothing is mentioned in the > builders manual about corrosion concerns. I live in south Louisiana where the > only thing higher than the humidity is the temperature. Not sure if this is a > real concern. I'd like this craft to last me quite some time ( at least till > I can no longer get a medical). Do production aircraft prime inside > structures? > > Thanks, > John Bickham > Mark III Parts Owner > St. Francisville, LA > - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 1998
Subject: Re: Static Source
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
Richard, While you 'fine-tune' the static port, I'd suggest you buy - or better yet borrow a Hall ASI. If you don't know what a Hall is, they are affectionately referred to as 'rain gauges' because that's what they look like, a 6 inch long clear plastic tube with graduated markings and a red plastic disk inside which rises and falls with airspeed. They're simple, durable and nearly fool-proof. They come in 2 speed ranges, 0-50 and 0-80 (I think) and can be temporarily attached to a lift strut with the included plastic 'c-clamp'. Put it about mid-way on the length of the strut and about vertical when in cruise attitude. The reading may or may not be absolutely accurate when checked against a GPS but the most important thing is it will repeat very well. More plusses; the Hall will react very fast compared to "aircraft style" ASI's and it's very accurate at low speed. Go to a safe altitude, do a stall or just approach a stall if you're not comfortable doing the real deal yet and note the Hall reading. After determining 'critical speeds' with the Hall, you'll have an instant reference to adjust your in-dash ASI. -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: Re: Static Source
Date: Jun 16, 1998
I too tried the infront static port and found it to be very unsatisfactory. I notice that the cessna that I fly has a static port on the side of the plane. My friend says that a large rivit with the center removed makes a good spot to attatch the tube from the static port of the ASI.?????? Larry ---------- > From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> > To: Richard neilsen > Cc: Kolb > Subject: Re: Static Source > Date: Tuesday, June 16, 1998 3:14 PM > > On Tue, 16 Jun 1998, Richard neilsen wrote: > > > As testing continues with my VW powered Kolb MKIII I have had one major problem I can't seem to get around. The airspeed indicator is almost useless. I suspect that I'm not getting a good static source. I originally had a source 4 inches out in front o > f my nose cone. I reworked the pitot and static probes so that the static is now 9 inches out in front of the nose cone with no impact. I'm almost ready to try unhooking the static so that the source will be inside the cockpit but my cockpit is fully encl > osed and I have snap vents for people cooling that will cause the airspeed to change based on their operation. I have a G.P.S. and it works fine without the engine running but after startup I can't seem to get it to connect to the satellites so I can't co > mpare to its speeds yet. My indicated flying speeds are 30-50KTS. The low end seems close???? but the high end just doesn't seem or feel right. > > Richard, > A good static source seems to be the holy grail. Russell Duffy and I > amused(?) ourselves no end trying to get a good one. Mine was originally > perfect when I had no side panels -- i.e. just the front wind screen > (on a Firestar), and this was just with the static port open on the > back of the gauge. Adding side panels ruined all that. I've tried > fancier options out in front -- no luck. Next for me is trying > side ports somewhere back along the cockpit. If you see a FS flying > around with a bunch of holes punched thru the side every 6", that's > me. :-) > > - Ben Ransom > > - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 1998
Subject: KOLB
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
Thanks to everyone for the tips on keep my muffler from rusting. Ok, my airplanes muffler from rusting! Lots of good ideas. thanks again Bob Doebler ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net>
Subject: 503 and Mk III
Hi Gang, I just bought a Mk III with a 503. Will it be under-powered? I haven't flown it yet - I just got it home. I ask for comments on the power - and I also would appreciate any comments that would help me in my first flight. I bought it without flying it. The log book says 63 TTSN. I am a GA pilot (130 hrs.) inactive for some time and I owned/flew a Lazair for a summer some time ago. I am 65 years of age and recently retired. 5'11" 195 lbs. Looking forward to your emails!! Gerald ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 17, 1998
Subject: Re: New Builder
In a message dated 6/16/98 9:38:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, richard.wood(at)usa.net writes: << What I did was grind the teeth off a pair of vice grips and adjusted the grips so it would only squash down so far that the tubes don't crack. >> What I did was to put a 3/16 bolt in the vice when I squeezed the tube the bolt would prevent the jaws of the vice from closing too far and cracking the tube. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 17, 1998
Subject: Re: 503 and Mk III
Unlike other folks I think a 503 should be adequate for a mark 3. Remember the early cubs had 65hp engines and weighed twice as much. Be sure to get your jetting and prop set up right and I don't think you should have any trouble at all. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net>
Subject: Re: Static Source
Date: Jun 17, 1998
>plane. My friend says that a large rivit with the center removed makes a >good spot to attatch the tube from the static port of the ASI.?????? >Larry This is the standard RV method of making static ports, and they put one on both sides of the fuselage. This works best on a nice flat fuselage side, aft of the wing, but the Kolbs don't have anything like that. I've thought about trying this on the fuselage tube, but I'm afraid it just wouldn't work for many reasons. My static port is still out front, and my ASI is still 10 mph low. As Ben mentioned, this is quite an irritant to me. Perhaps I'm just easily irritated :-) Rusty PS- the RV-8A wings are here, and the factory built spar is a thing of beauty :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Howard Penny <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se>
Subject: Tube squashing
Date: Jun 17, 1998
I contemplated quite a while about how to attach the 5/16 tubing. I liked the idea of having the trailing edge nice and thin without the ribs on the outside. But making all the gussets to do this was against the KISS principle plus I wanted to get underway a bit faster. Using the 90 degree bend seemed a better idea but still used more material and more labor. I finally decided on a solution that would be a compromise. I used a vice with a smooth metal plate on one side to protect the tube and on the other side I used a socket wrench the diameter of the spar tube. As I tightened the vice I used a drill bit to limit the depth of the squash. What resulted was a very smooth transition in the tube to the squashed area. The back of the tube had a small flat area where the rivet was to be placed. The tube curved slightly as if to cradle the spar, and the contact area of the mating surfaces was dramatically increased. For the trailing edge contact I used the same socket as a small one deformed the tube beyond acceptance. Before the squash was made, I made sure that at least 2 inches of tube extended beyond the squash point otherwise the squashed area would not be symmetrical. The major drawback with this method is that distances between the squash points must be perfect to maintain a straight trailing edge. Obviously tubes that meet at an angle must be mashed at an angle. Other benefits of this process also came to light. A center punch used on the inside of the indention tends to automatically center itself. Using a drill press to drill a pilot hole makes it very easy to get a hole perpendicular to the contact area. Once you lay the tube on the spar, it is almost impossible to not rivet it at the point of contact. And mashing from one side makes the profile of the tube less obtrusive when covered. For those tubes that needed squashing where they could not use this process, i.e. half ribs on the tail feathers and ailerons, instead of a socket I used a hardwood block with a radius on one end. The natural bending of the squashing was very close the angle I need for attachment. Howard G. Penny (Suffering many interruptions in SS-007 construction) RTP, NC penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se /* ------------------------- */ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 503 and Mk III
>Unlike other folks I think a 503 should be adequate for a mark 3. Remember >the early cubs had 65hp engines and weighed twice as much. Be sure to get >your jetting and prop set up right and I don't think you should have any >trouble at all. When's the last time you flew a J-3 with 65 hoss eng. They are dogs, especially with two up. I fly with an old L4 w/65 and my heavy MK III flies circles around it. Recommend you talk to owners and previous owners of MK IIIs pwr'd with 503's. I flew my MK III w/ 582 and 912, both performed about the same. Both did a good job. I personnaly have never flown a 503 pwr'd MK III, but have flown the 65 HP Cub. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLSOUDER(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 17, 1998
Subject: Re: Corrosion Precautions
I received my Mark III Kit 1 a few days ago and in the process of organizing and getting started. I was wondering what steps were taking by any of you to prevent corrosion. I have seen previous threads on dipping rivets prior to installation but don't remember the details. I do know that whatever is used has to be compatible with the covering materials. Nothing is mentioned in the builders manual about corrosion concerns. I live in south Louisiana where the only thing higher than the humidity is the temperature. Not sure if this is a real concern. I'd like this craft to last me quite some time ( at least till I can no longer get a medical). Do production aircraft prime inside structures? Some misc thoughts on preventative measures for corrosion: In the dryer areas of the country including most of the north, the Kolb structures seem to fare well without the extra preventative measures listed below. For other more humid conditions, you may wish to consider one or more of the measures listed. These would be particularly helpful for float operations. If float operations in salt water are anticipated, all the items below (and more!) should be considered. 1) Quickest & easiest: Use a small paint brush to dab all the heads of the rivets after setting with epoxy chromate paint. The epoxy is needed to keep the fabric solvents from softening the paint and making a mess. Epoxy chromate is well utilized for this operation because you can do a lot of rivets (all of them if you wish) at one time and the mixing of the 2-part paint is less burdensome. 2) Dip rivets in primer before inserting. This provides protection closer to contact site of the dissimilar metals. If fabric will be in contact with the rivet, then you should use an epoxy paint. Or you could use the more common zinc chromate paint and wipe off the area after setting the rivet to remove any excess paint. The more important paint under the rivet would still remain. Zinc chromate is easier to use for this operation because you can only set so many rivets in a given period of time and the 2-part paint would be a real problem in setting up before you used much of it. 3) More comprehensive: Painting the entire internal structure of the wing, tail, and control surfaces with PolyFiber epoxy chromate primer, or other quality epoxy primer. Since the fabric will be in contact with this paint, you want a paint that will not soften with application of the PolyBrush or PolyTak. This could be sprayed - or brushed on because it will be covered over with fabric. Make sure you clean the surfaces thorough, so the paint will adhere well. 4) For salt water operation (a very severe application): Clean the interior of ALL the tubing in wings, tail & control surfaces with solvent and then work paint into the interior of every tube. A turkey baster works good for this. Work over an open pan and squirt paint into every tube and let it drain out. Tape the end of the main spar shut and pour paint into the spar and then tape the other end shut. Then rotate the tube while rocking it back and forth to coat the entire tube. Do this with the H-section already installed so those rivets are will protected from the inside. The wing ribs should be thus treated before installing on wing spar. The smaller surfaces can be painted after they are assembled, but make sure you squirt paint into all the separate tubes. The above is based upon a certain level of experience and some reasonable estimating. I welcome any comments/feedback/experience on this topic. Dennis Souder Pres Kolb Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net>
Subject: Re: Corrosion Precautions
Date: Jun 17, 1998
>and getting started. I was wondering what steps were taking by any of you to >prevent corrosion. I have seen previous threads on dipping rivets prior to I live just down the coast from you in Navarre, FL, and share your humidity. I like to tell people that we like a little air in our water :-) I didn't prime anything on my SlingShot except for the steel parts. The aluminum is resistant to corrosion, but will eventually corrode. I'm just betting that it will be a long time from now before that becomes a problem. I think you'll find that the majority of people don't prime the aluminum on these types of planes unless they plan to use floats. >I can no longer get a medical). Do production aircraft prime inside >structures? As I understand, they didn't until recently. I believe the new Cessna's are very well primed with epoxy. Maybe that's why they went up in price by about $70k :-) Rusty SlingShot - primed steel only RV-8A - priming steel and contact surfaces of aluminum only ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 17, 1998
Subject: Re: Corrosion Precautions
In a message dated 6/17/98 11:39:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time, DLSOUDER(at)aol.com writes: << I welcome any comments/feedback/experience on this topic. Dennis Souder Pres Kolb Aircraft >> The precautions taken should be comensurate with the risk. The problem is that the Kolb fleet hasn't been around long enough for there to be much good data on how these aircraft corrode and where. The eye opener for me was re- covering an older ultrastar which had been stored for 10 years outside in a semi enclosed trailer. The wing was covered per the book and there was no primer on the aluminum. The spar and tubes were in fine shape. They were a dull grey, but there was now obvious corrosion. However, in some, but not all, areas there were white rings of corrosion around the pop rivet heads and the heads themselves were rusted. I didn't like the look of that. When I built the wings on my mark 3 I had a coffee can full of clecos. I would work along until I had used all the clecos, then I would mix up a little batch of epoxy primer. I would dip the rivets into the primer and then pull them wet. After I had replaced all the clecos with rivets I usually had some primer left over and would just brush it on what ever parts happened to be nearby. By the end all my aluminum parts were primed on the outside. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLSOUDER(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 17, 1998
Subject: Re: Corrosion Precautions
"The precautions taken should be comensurate with the risk. The problem is that the Kolb fleet hasn't been around long enough for there to be much good data on how these aircraft corrode and where. " I agree - data is relatively scarce. "The eye opener for me was re-covering an older ultrastar which had been stored for 10 years outside in a semi enclosed trailer. The wing was covered per the book and there was no primer on the aluminum. The spar and tubes were in fine shape. They were a dull grey, but there was now obvious corrosion. However, in some, but not all, areas there were white rings of corrosion around the pop rivet heads and the heads themselves were rusted. I didn't like the look of that." The Ultra's would have plated steel rivets - now we are using all stainless steel rivets and so you probably would not have the rusting of the heads as you described. Also I have seen rusted heads as you describe and commonly it is only surface rust - and not rusted in the more important area underneath. Not to say that it could not be deeper than that in some cases. Good technique for painting rivet heads ... and ... uh everything else! Dennis Dennis ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 1998
From: Mike Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Static Source
[sent this yesterday, don't know why it didn't go thru] This is a subject that I find kinda cool. The neutral pressure point around an airfoil (where airspeed matches true airspeed) is pretty close to the front, like at about 5-10% of the chord (further back when max chord is further back). Take a look out the window at the airline terminal and you'll see pitot tubes a few feet back from the nose on the big jets--at the neutral pressure point. You could have your dynamic port at the very tip of the nose with little or no tube and your static port somewhere about "5%" back. I'm seeing Vince's post as I write this, and it sounds like he's taking the other approach, that of getting dynamic pressure at the tip of a pitot tube (ram air) and the static at the side of a similar tube (in front of the nose). I guess this works as long as the static port is far enough out in front of the plane that it's not influenced much by the increased pressure near the front of the nose. >From the book that I've got next to me (by Alex Strojnik, "Low Power Laminar Aircraft Design") the sailplane fanatics use an opening in the tip of the nose for their dynamic pressure--and for cockpit ventilation--and do a trial and error location of the neutral pressure point, where they drill a tiny hole in the side for a static port. I guess you could drill one, compare with the GPS, then drill again, forward if your speed reads too high, back if too low. Ben's problem when he added more side panel was that he was effectively moving his static port back. If you want accurate measurements that are more independent of yaw (eg. during slip) you can link holes located at the neutral point on both sides of the 'fuse to use for your static port. That's why the airliners have a matched pair of pitots, one on each side--in fact, there's two pairs: one lower down and angled down more, for accurate readings at high angle of attack. (They're picky!) All of this is actually absurd for *me* to be talking about, however. My plane (Ultrastar) has no enclosure save for the instrument pod itself. And I've got a venturi system. The position of my *foot* changes the readings a bit! The problems I've run into (pre-flight items!) are the angle of the venturi and spider webs. (even the tiniest webs throw it off pertty bad) -Mike >On Tue, 16 Jun 1998, Richard neilsen wrote: > >> As testing continues with my VW powered Kolb MKIII I have had one major problem I can't seem to get around. The airspeed indicator is almost useless. I suspect that I'm not getting a good static source. I originally had a source 4 inches out in front o >f my nose cone. I reworked the pitot and static probes so that the static is now 9 inches out in front of the nose cone with no impact. I'm almost ready to try unhooking the static so that the source will be inside the cockpit but my cockpit is fully encl >osed and I have snap vents for people cooling that will cause the airspeed to change based on their operation. I have a G.P.S. and it works fine without the engine running but after startup I can't seem to get it to connect to the satellites so I can't co >mpare to its speeds yet. My indicated flying speeds are 30-50KTS. The low end seems close???? but the high end just doesn't seem or feel right. > >Richard, >A good static source seems to be the holy grail. Russell Duffy and I >amused(?) ourselves no end trying to get a good one. Mine was originally >perfect when I had no side panels -- i.e. just the front wind screen >(on a Firestar), and this was just with the static port open on the >back of the gauge. Adding side panels ruined all that. I've tried >fancier options out in front -- no luck. Next for me is trying >side ports somewhere back along the cockpit. If you see a FS flying >around with a bunch of holes punched thru the side every 6", that's >me. :-) > >- Ben Ransom > >- > > ________________________________________________________________________________ release (PO205-101c) ID# 605-45218U5000L500S0) with SMTP
From: "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)intermediatn.net>
Subject: Re: Static Source
Date: Jun 17, 1998
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Static Source Fellow Kolb Flyers, >My static port is still out front, and my ASI is still 10 mph low. As Ben >mentioned, this is quite an irritant to me. Perhaps I'm just easily irritated My ASI system is very reproducible with the external static system I described. However, I found the numbers preprinted on the ASI face were different from the numbers my GPS reported. So, I added new, corrected numbers. That is, with a fine tipped white ink pen, I placed white numbers on the glass face of my ASI. After a couple of years, the numbers have remained and the glass does not move. More importantly, on flight after flight, my GPS and ASI are very close when I cross check them. Maybe I should have expected the numbers preprinted on the ASI to be correct, but that never occurred to me. Vince Nicely ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 1998
From: Terry Swartz <Tswartz(at)ptdprolog.net>
Subject: Re: Static Source
Richard I bought a pitot-static tube from aircraft spruce p/n 1544 for $15.65. Installed it under the nose cone so it protrudes 2 - 3 inches in front of the nose skid. My IAS is very close to actual. Simple and easy. Terry Richard neilsen wrote: > > > > One other concern is landing speed on touch down. I know my landing speed is high but without accurate airspeed indications... My question is flaps, do they significantly reduce landing speeds? I never got to use them on the flights at the factory and was warned not to until I got comfortable with the plane. I do remember John Hauck giving me a demo flight at Sun and Fun were he landed using full flaps and stopped in what seemed like 10 feet. > > Thanks for any help you can give me. > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net>
Subject: air vents
Hi again, I'm the one that just bought the Mk III with the 503. Thanks for all the advice and opinions - this is a fantastic source for me, being very new to the "Kolb family". I just reassembled it today after trailering it about 900k. It trailered very well on a 20' flat bottom and there was no damage. I put both the fuse' tube and wings in saddles but didn't detach the universal joint because the ride at that point on the trailer (between the trailer wheels and hitch on the motorhome) it would appear to rided very smooth. Now to the air-vent querie: I'm looking at the cabin after reassembling it (I haven't flown it yet) and I notice there are no vents. I assume that it is going to get quite hot and stuffy in there without vents. Am I correct? How does one arrange for some fresh air? Can one add twisting vents as I see in other aircraft? If so, where does one obtain them and how do you install them? Your help will again be greatly appreciated. That is all the questions for now but there will be more (-: By the way, I live in Grande Prairie, AB, Canada (born and raised in North Dakota) - 65 - retired - GA (getting it reactivated) - Lazair owner/pilot some years ago and NOW a KOLB owner!!!! (it is presently Canadian registered as an advanced ultralight) I am hoping against hope to get to Oshkosh and S & F as soon as I can. Can one fly by commercial airline to Oshkosh and then live real cheap some where - tent camp or something under somebody's wing? Gerald ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: MKIII Modifications
anyone who hasn't kept track of my MKIII mods, (that includes everybody) I modified the windshield and doors of my MKIII, trying to reduce drag behind the windshield and doors, and reduce the power needed to sustain level flight. After a week of high wind, finally got to fly for an hour and 15 minutes this morning. Still too bumpy for getting real numbers, but some things looked good: There is one of those big high tension electric lines 1/2 mile off the end of my hay field/airstrip. It is necessary to climb 600' to clear it at all, (it is on a rise) 750' to have any kind of comfortable margin. Last summer with the standard windshield and doors, the 64 HP Rotax would not get two adults over it on a warm day, it was necessary to turn and parallel it until you could get the altitude. Took off this morning with 13 gallons of fuel, and two 200 pounders in the MKIII. Topped it easily with at least 200+ feet clearance. OAT about 68 degrees. Coming home solo , 52 MPH level cruise only needed 4800 rpm. Last year it took 5200 rpm to maintain level cruise at 52 mph. So far I really enjoy the open air "ultralight feel" of the cut down windshield and doors. (13 years of flying a Hummer will do that to you...)If you look at the windshield from the front, the cutoff is roughly parallel to the wing center section, but it measures about 24" from where it lays on the nose cone to the top in the center, and about 29" at either side where it is rivited to the tubes. It still has it's original bend. The doors , when seen from the front, are cut off at the same width as the fuselage. Seen from the side, they come back about even with the top of the leg when you are in the seat. The curved steel tube that used to form the top windshield mount has been removed. The center section of the wing is as clean and "airfoiley" as possible. I may redo the windshield to make it about 2" longer. If you drop the nose and the airspeed gets over 70, then you get more wind on the top of your head. Have'nt decided yet if it is too much or not, it nibbles on the ball cap a bit, but does not try and pull it off, and doesn't bother the eyes. This info may be of particular interest to anyone with a 503 that is working harder than is comfortable, it might give that little extra margin. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Hirth engines
Question was asked a while back about the reliability of Hirth engines, and I mentioned that the only one locally had caused a lot of trouble, and then quit and trashed a gorgeous Fisher Classic bipe. Accident report revealed water in the carb, gas tank had no sump, and the pickup didn't reach the bottom in the taxi position, but the water could get to the pickup once the nose was lowered to level or greater. Hirth was not the primary cause of the accident. (apparently) Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 1998
From: lplaing(at)juno.com (Lee P Laing)
Please send any and all info in regards to an ultrastar (plans, construction manual, updates) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rinehart, Mark W." <Mark.W.Rinehart(at)Allison.com>
Subject: Richard Pike's Mods
Date: Jun 18, 1998
Richard, Thanks for the update. I am hoping to purchase a Mark III kit at Oshkosh this year and am very interested in what you've done to "open" up the cockpit while at the same time improve the airflow around the wing. Could someone incorporate your mods without buying the Kolb "enclosed cockpit" option? Or do you have to start with the enclosed cockpit? Also do you have any pictures you could post. Thanks. Mark Rinehart "MK III BFI wanna be" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Re: MKIII Modifications
Richard and all, >...I modified the windshield and doors of my MKIII I sure appreciate your post on your work in this area. I have cut my doors down to about 1/2. I left the original curve in them just like the full doors. They just don't extend back as far. I too want to remove the upper part of the center section like you have done for summer flying. In feeling the air that passes behind the half doors it seems as if it comes straight back from the edge with little or no tendency to expand out further due to the effect of the nose cone piercing the air. I fly with a 2" cushion under and behind me so I sit up higher than the stock seat. I am only 5'8" so I like to be up a little more. Your measurements will come in really handy in trying to figure how high the center section of the canopy needs to be to keep my baseball cap on too. >So far I really enjoy the open air "ultralight feel" of the cut down >windshield and doors. So do I (doors at least). I can't wait until the temp rises so I can remove the full enclosure. >The curved steel tube that used to form the top windshield mount has >been removed. I am going to leave mine on so I can button everything back up for winter. My center canopy was built already removable. I will just build a replacement partial center canopy with its own down tubes, piano hinges for the doors, etc. One thing that I have considered is to add an aluminum tube brace across the top between the down tubes to keep the unsupported rear edge of the center canopy from fluttering. Have you noticed any tendency for it to do that? Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel Kolb MKIII - N582CC (45.5 hrs) ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rutledge fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Preflight Checklist
Date: Jun 18, 1998
I am interested in compiling a comprehensive preflight checklist for my original firestar, and am interested to see what others are currently using. Many thanks. Rutledge (Soon to be flying) Fuller Tallahassee, Florida ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net>
Subject: checklist
hi again would anyone have a pre-flight checklist for a MK III/503 Rotax? Gerald ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com>
Subject: Checklist for Mark III
Date: Jun 18, 1998
>From my archives... > -----Original Message----- > From: Scott Bentley > Sent: Thursday, August 28, 1997 3:29 PM > To: 'Kolb Builders' > Subject: Checklist for Mark III > > This is a personal checklist I developed for my Mark III, which now has > over 30 hours on it. > > Most of it came from Cliff Stripling; Dan at Kolb added several > improvements. > > I'd appreciate any comments or suggestions for improvement. > ================================== > > Checklist for Mark III / Rotax 912 / EIS > > Wing Unfolding > > ( ) Remove trailering brace bars from tail > ( ) Install left and right lift struts on cage bottom, insert clevis and > safety pins and rest on tires > > For each wing: > ( ) Remove retaining clips one side at a time, then open wing > (keeping eyes on aileron and flap control horns as they unfold and deploy) > and rest the wing tip on a foam pad. > ( ) Install the main spar tab on the clevis pin installed in the cage > connection > ( ) Being careful not to let the spar tab slip off while walking > down the leading edge of the wing, remove and install the clevis and > safety pin through main spar tab > ( ) Lift wings carefully by leading edge spar, lift struts up with > foot and install clevis and safety pins > > ( ) Remove flap retaining cord, hook up flaps, and install safety pins > ( ) Remove aileron retaining cord, hook up ailerons, and install safety > pins > ( ) Open tail section, adjust trim to full forward position and move stick > to neutral attitude > ( ) Install wing nut and safety pin in tail section brace wires > ( ) Check to make certain key is not in ignition, then slide wing gap > seal back. > ( ) Connect both electrical plugs. Tighten velcro straps left and right > > Preflight > > ( ) Check fluid levels, lines, and caps (gas, oil, coolant, brake fluid) > ( ) Check fuel pump for leaks > ( ) Check oil reservoir brackets and welds for cracks and security > ( ) Check engine mounts, accessories, and sensor wires > ( ) Check parachute, bridal, activation assembly > ( ) Check spark plug wires and carburetor attachment > ( ) Check exhaust and muffler for cracks, safety wire, security > ( ) Check gap seal is attached and secure > ( ) Check for any loose items in engine area that could go into prop > ( ) Check prop bolts and condition > ( ) Check wings, and flaps, ailerons - surfaces and hinges - for damage > ( ) Check lift struts (4 safety pins) > ( ) Check control rods and bolts (4 safety pins) > ( ) Check wing root bolts and pins (2 safety pins) > ( ) Check landing gear, tires, brakes > ( ) Check tail brace wires, wing nut, and safety pin > ( ) Check tail surfaces and hinges for damage > ( ) Check rudder trim tab for cracks around rivets > ( ) Check tail wheel chains and springs > ( ) Check windshield and doors for clarity and cracks > ( ) Check door hinges > > > Before Engine Start > > ( ) Check weather (1 800 WX BRIEF or by radio) > ( ) Check flight gear (headsets, intercom, radio, maps, glasses, camera, > etc.) > ( ) Secure any loose items in cabin > ( ) Check controls for full and smooth operation and interior fittings > ( ) Set altimeter to correct barometric setting or field elevation > ( ) Set trim appropriately > ( ) Remove safety pin on parachute activation handle > ( ) Close and check doors > ( ) Turn intercom on and check operation > ( ) Check surrounding area for security from prop blast > > Engine Start > > ( ) Feet on brakes > ( ) Choke to appropriate setting > ( ) Throttle to IDLE > ( ) Master switch on > ( ) "Clear" Prop > ( ) Ignition switch to Start until engine catches > ( ) Adjust choke and throttle for smooth operation > ( ) Turn on EIS immediately after start > ( ) Strobes on as appropriate > ( ) Determine active runway > > Pre Takeoff > > ( ) Check oil temperature at least 120 degrees > ( ) Check other engine readings > ( ) Mag check at 3500 RPM > ( ) Choke off > ( ) Check Strobes, Trim setting > ( ) Controls free, clear, and correct > ( ) Check for traffic, announce intentions as appropriate > > Takeoff > > ( ) Rotate at 35 MPH > ( ) Climb to 1000 AGL at full power, 50 MPH > > Landing > > ( ) Announce intentions as appropriate > ( ) Approach speed 55 MPH > > After Landing > > ( ) Replace flaps if used > > Shut down > > ( ) Record engine time > ( ) Turn off intercom, radio > ( ) Increase engine speed to 2000-2200 RPM > ( ) Turn off EIS, strobes, master > ( ) Kill engine with mags > ( ) Replace parachute safety pin > ( ) Log flight time > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rutledge fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: checklist
Date: Jun 18, 1998
Gerald, We must have been reading each others minds. I posted my request for a preflight checklist prior to seeing your request. Bizzare.... And this is a subject that I can't remember the group addressing since I have been on the list. ----Original Message Follows---- From: Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net> Subject: Kolb-List: checklist hi again would anyone have a pre-flight checklist for a MK III/503 Rotax? Gerald ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 1998
From: Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us>
Subject: oil injection
I am just about ready to try out "my FireStar". This is a used one with very low hours. I was lookin over the thing and noticed that the lines on the oil pump and the throttle linkage did not line up. If the mark on the oil pump is at 12 o'clock then the mark on the throttle linkage is at about 1 o'clock. When the plane was test flown all the temps were right, and it ran great. Does anyone know it this is a rich oil mix or lean? Was this supposed to be in that position while the engine was being broken in? Should I readjust it? The 503 is a '97 with 28hrs on it. Thanks for your help Gary ========================================================================= | Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us | | Souderton Pa. | | | | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only) | ========================================================================= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com
Date: Jun 18, 1998
Subject: Re: oil injection
Hi Gary, With the throttle in the idle position, both marks must be lined up and no offset is allowed. The offset you mention will lean the oilsupply slightly at higher speeds and may not have done any harm to the engine at 28 hrs but IMHO is not a good idea to continue running at. Frank Reynen MarkIII@437hrs http://www.webcom.com/reynen I am just about ready to try out "my FireStar". This is a used one with very low hours. I was lookin over the thing and noticed that the lines on the oil pump and the throttle linkage did not line up. If the mark on the oil pump is at 12 o'clock then the mark on the throttle linkage is at about 1 o'clock. When the plane was test flown all the temps were right, and it ran great. Does anyone know it this is a rich oil mix or lean? Was this supposed to be in that position while the engine was being broken in? Should I readjust it? The 503 is a '97 with 28hrs on it. Thanks for your help Gary ========================================================================= | Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us | | Souderton Pa. | | | | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only) | ========================================================================= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: MKIII Modifications
>> This info may be of particular interest to anyone with a 503 that is >> working harder than is comfortable, it might give that little extra margin. >> >> Richard Pike >> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) > >Just curious....what pitch and diameter is your 503 swinging? > >JB >J. Baker > > Not using a 503, using a 532. But if the 532 could use a little more oomph, then a 503 might really be having to work hard. I am using an IVO 64" 2-blade. Was using all 3 blades, but the 532's wimpy torque curve in the 5000 range sometimes kept it from coming up on the pipe. 2 blades and lots more pitch gives about the same climb, and a lot better throttle response. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Richard Pike's Mods
>Richard, > >Thanks for the update. I am hoping to purchase a Mark III kit at Oshkosh >this year and am very interested in what you've done to "open" up the >cockpit while at the same time improve the airflow around the wing. Could >someone incorporate your mods without buying the Kolb "enclosed cockpit" >option? Or do you have to start with the enclosed cockpit? Also do you >have any pictures you could post. Thanks. > > >Mark Rinehart >"MK III BFI wanna be" >- I used the original windshield and cut away the top. Cut away the steel curve tube that is just below the leading edge. Used the factory doors, and cut away the rear frame to make them several inches shorter. (Will measure and post later, been up forever and got to go to bed) You could probably get them made up shorter if you asked Kolb? Will post pictures next week. Will Uribe has a page with some of my mods on it, and will send some to him. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: MKIII Modifications
>Richard and all, > >>...I modified the windshield and doors of my MKIII > >I sure appreciate your post on your work in this area. I have cut my doors >down to about 1/2. I left the original curve in them just like the full >doors. They just don't extend back as far. I too want to remove the upper >part of the center section like you have done for summer flying. > >>The curved steel tube that used to form the top windshield mount has >>been removed. > >I am going to leave mine on so I can button everything back up for winter. > If you want the best aerodynamics for lift, and reduced drag, consider making it removable/replaceable. > One thing that I have considered is to add an aluminum tube >brace across the top between the down tubes to keep the unsupported rear >edge of the center canopy from fluttering. Have you noticed any tendency >for it to do that? > None at all, the windshield is very solid. rp >Later, > >-- >Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist >(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas >and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel > Kolb MKIII - N582CC (45.5 hrs) > ____________________|_____________________ > ___(+^+)___ > (_) > 8 8 > > >- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: gimme gimme
>Please send any and all info in regards to an ultrastar (plans, >construction manual, updates) > Who the heck are you and who are you talking to? Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Hirth engines
> Accident report revealed water in the carb, gas tank had no sump, >and the pickup didn't reach the bottom in the taxi position, but the water >could get to the pickup once the nose was lowered to level or greater. > Hirth was not the primary cause of the accident. (apparently) > Richard Pike Sounds like the Hirth had nothing whatsoever to do with the accident.Still love my Hirth Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 1998
Subject: 503 oil-injection
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
To whoever asked about 503 oil injection adjustment. (sorry , I hit the delete instead on the save button), so I don't have your name. Mike Stratman of CPS: 1-800-AIRWOLF told me that the hash marks on the oil injection pump should line up, when the 503 is at 3000 RPM. Hope this helps. Any questions you probably can call CPS's tech line at 1-510-357-2403 Bob Doebler ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Preflight Checklist
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Jun 18, 1998
Rut, I made a detailed checklist after I built mine. I use it everytime I setup and fly. Here are some of the items checked from memory since I don't have the list in front of me (it's under the seat of my FS where it belongs). I may have left something out, let me know. I will usually run the engine up prior to my preflight. If there are fuel leaks they will show up here. I have never had a BRS, so I don't need to remove the firing pin. preflight checklist o check the elevator turnbuckles and bolts to the stick (those bolts should be able to turn free with your finger) o check the control stick movement o check throttle/cable o check rudder movement o check the cables as they move through the fuselage pulley o check main wing clevis pins o check lift struts clevis pins top and bottom o check wing LE/hinges o check aileron clevis pins o check the fuel lines for leaks o check the carb for tightness o check the aileron push/pull tubes from front to back o check the aileron bellcrank pivots o check prop for nicks and prop bolts for tightness o check drag strut tube/fitting for play o check wing TE bolts/nuts o check gas cap for tightness and venting o check LE of stabilizer for play o check tail-bracing for tightness o check elevator clevis pin o check bottom tail-brace bolt and safety ring o check elevator hinges o check elevator for play by moving left and right in opposite directions o check tailwheel movement o check main wheels for proper inflation and play o remove pitot tube cover o prior to takeoff check the control surfaces by looking at them After I consider it airworthy, I hop in and go have some safe fun! Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >I am interested in compiling a comprehensive preflight checklist for >my original firestar, and am interested to see what others are currently >using. Many thanks. > >Rutledge (Soon to be flying) Fuller >Tallahassee, Florida ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rutledge fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Preflight Checklist
Date: Jun 19, 1998
I do mean comprehensive. I can cut it down later. I mean the kind of preflight checklist that you would use during a rainy day at the airport, when you have nothing better to do than inspect your plane. ----Original Message Follows---- Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 15:09:01 -0500 From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Preflight Checklist >I am interested in compiling a comprehensive preflight checklist for my >original firestar, and am interested to see what others are currently >using. Many thanks. Rut, When you say comprehensive - you may not mean that. I started out with one two pages long. Then I changed my mind and made one that would fit on a 5X7 card that just hit the really basics (for me at least). It could a different list for each person. I primarily put on it the things that I would sometimes miss or that were absolutely necessary for a safe flight. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel Kolb MKIII - N582CC (45.5 hrs) ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Preflight Checklist
Ralph H Burlingame wrote: snip... > After I consider it airworthy, I hop in and go have some safe fun! > I have one thing to add to Ralph's checklist. Before starting a take off run, I warm the engine to 200 degrees CHT, by running it at no more than 4,000 rpm. This is to reduce the risk of cold siezure. Then I have FUN! John Jung Firestar II N6163J 11 hrs, 29 to go Original Firestar (for 8 more days) SE Wisconsin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 1998
Subject: Trailer For Sale
From: rayul(at)juno.com (Raymond L Lujon)
I have a custom built Firestar II open trailer for sale. You won't find a better built, safer or convenient trailer, and priced right. Contact me direct and I will e-mail you the extensive details. I live in the Minneapolis-St. Paul, Minnesota metro area. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Preflight Checklist
I'm getting in on this checklist subject late. It looks like y'all have covered it very well, but I thought I'd toss in the very short/simple version I use. I have a 3x5 laminated card I keep in a small fanny pack that I wear every flight. (A few other essentials in that pack.) On one side I have a preflight checklist and the other side is a pre-takeoff (run-up area) checklist. The preflight one is especially comforting to use as I change from trailered aluminum to airplane most of the time. Keeping lists simple with only the most critical items helps assure that I go over them carefully each time. (I have never even thought about clevis pins during flight, thanks to using a simple checklist.) Here's my 3x5 card: Side 1 (preflight) 1. Spark Plug Leads secure 2. Gas cap tight, gas full, no line leaks 3. Ballistic harness secure, tie-wraps good 4. Clevis Pins and Clips good - 2 aileron horns - 2+2 lift struts - 2 main spar - 1 tail group 5. General walk-around preflight Side 2 (run-up area) 1. Belts and "baggage" secure 2. Controls free and visual check that they operate free/full 3. BRS armed 4. Engine: - EGT ~800,max 1200 - CHT ~200,max 350 - choke off 5. Check pattern 6. What to do if engine out @ 50' AGL -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Radiator
Since I changed the airflow around the cockpit, the radiator I had used before was too efficient, couldn't get things hot enough. Replaced it with a very small one that is working fine, so now I have a good used radiator for sale. It is off a Honda 750 motorcycle of some sort, and measures 9"x14"x1 1/2" and weighs about 5 pounds, which is slightly larger and twice as heavy as the one in the CPS catalog. It is used and in good shape. Paid $50 for it used, make me an offer. Also have a radiator off a Zenair CH701, (that's what my 532 came out of), if anyone wants it, you can have it for the cost of my trouble boxing it up and shipping. It measures 11"x22"x1 1/2" and weighs 10 (!) pounds. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Firestar Camping
Group, Some of you wondered how I was able to carry camping gear in my original Firestar. I now have a picture of my plane showing where I carry my tent and sleeping bag-> http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Camping.html The sleeping bag is in a larger tent bag on the right. Also I have a picture of the new, slight larger windscreen-> http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Windscreen.html Notice that the nose cone has been modified so that the windscreen mounts on the inside, avoiding that unsightly black edge trim. A new instrument panel holds the winscreen snug against the nosecone-> http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Instruments.html John Jung Original Firestar Firestar II N6163J SE Wisconsin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net>
jgoodwin(at)netbistro.com, Joe_Lacey(at)compuserve.com, kolb(at)intrig.com
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: [Fwd: FW: Virus Alert]]
From: Marsha & Bill Nelson <nelson(at)agt.net>
To: hansenk(at)telusplanet.net CC: ianski(at)telusplanet.net, gdnelson(at)agt.net, "mjosborn(at)cadvision.com,szutter(at)gppsd.ab.ca,SOkeefe"(at)plato.epsb.edmonton.ab.ca Subject: Kolb-List: Re: [Fwd: FW: Virus Alert] Kevin & Lois Leibel wrote: > > Subject: > > Received: by ECOM with Internet Mail Service (5.0.1460.8) > Message-Id: <61CDA50BA25BD1118C2800805FE692093B5891(at)e10.ent.agt.ab.ca> > From: Kevin Leibel <Kevin.Leibel(at)telus.com> > To: "'klleibel(at)telusplanet.net'" > Subject: FW: Virus Alert > Mime-Version: 1.0 > X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.0.1460.8) > Return-Path: > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Wayne Schneider > > Sent: Thursday, June 04, 1998 10:10 AM > > To: Barry Sideroff; Brian Conrad; Darrell Blimke; David Murphy; Dennis > > Smith; Derek Lawrance; Don Cooke; Doug Lowe; Glenn Plummer; Harold > > Schalin; Kelvin Stamp; Kevin Leibel; Michael Bain > > Subject: FW: Virus Alert > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Terry Young > > Sent: Thursday, June 04, 1998 8:53 AM > > To: Carol Barr; Doug Law; Dwight Farrell; Ed Magilton; Gary Mielke; Joe > > Mottershead; Keith Rose; Kenneth Roberts; Larry Marasco; Larry Molander; > > Lowell Scott; Patrick Bruce; Rick Dallyn; Ron Szostak; Roy Tofteland; > > Wayne Roberts; Wayne Schneider > > Subject: FW: Virus Alert > > > > FYI > > > > Terry Young > > Resource Coordination Manager > > Planning and Provisioning North > > 403-447-7843 Pager 470-8292 Cell 940-5632 > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Karen Will > > Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 1998 8:38 AM > > To: Angela Dunbar; Karen Johnson; Myron Bailer; Alan O'Hara; Barnaby > > Chan; Bernie Shipka; Bob Kishimoto; Cory King; Dan Macpherson; Dave > > Baxandall; Donna Tassone; Earl Tunheim; Eric Brenton; Ernie Jensen; Gail > > Graham; Iris Garvie; Juliette Klein; Karen Will; Michael Basok; Tanya > > Peachey; Tim Hicks; Darlene Dalgleish; Don Raypold; Gary Silsbe; Grant > > Sikstrom; Joyce Kropiniski; Ken Tough; Lily Tang; Mike Foster; Mike Mizuik > > Subject: FW: Virus Alert > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Terena Larratt > > Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 1998 1:41 PM > > To: TC - Business Sales > > Subject: FW: Virus Alert > > > > F.Y.I..... > > > > This is a virus alert we have received from one of our client's IS > > departments. > > > > VERY IMPORTANT - PLEASE READ > > > > If you receive e-mail titled "WIN A HOLIDAY'! DO NOT open it, it will > > erase everything on your hard drive. Forward this letter out to as many > > people as you can. This is a new, very malicious virus and not many > > people know about it. This information was announced yesterday morning > > from Microsoft, please share it with everyone that might access the > > Internet. Once again, pass this along to EVERYONE in your address book so > > that this may be stopped. > > > > Also, do not open or even look at any mail that says "RETURNED OR UNABLE > > TO DELIVER" (FOLLOWING ONLY THIS MESSAGE). This virus will attach itself > > to your computer components and render them useless. Immediately delete > > any mail items that say this. AOL has said that this is a very dangerous > > virus and that there is NO remedy for it at this time. Please practice > > cautionary measures and forward this to all your online friends. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Hirth engines
>>- >> Wish we had some Hirth owners in the local area, this one was >unfortunatly the first one around, and the builder that got it was not a >2-stroke person, and it gave him a fit. it seemed to want to run hot, and >stuck a piston. Who knows why at this stage of the game. > What blew my mind was that he sent the piston back to (?) where ever >he got the engine, so they could look at the seize marks, and they cleaned >the piston off and sent it back to him, and said it was alright.?!?! > I used to do dumb stuff like that 30 years ago in dirt bikes, but I >was poor and dumb. That is not the way airplanes are normally done... > > If anyone else around here gets a Hirth, I may have some questions >for you, we don't need any repeats of the last disaster. rp > > First off Hirth likes to run hotter than a Rotax due to its alloy compatability between piston and cylinder.This makes it difficult to heat seize the engine.After the piston was cleaned up did it look ok? Were there any major differences in the diameter of the piston head?The piston should really be running only on the rings.The main component of your letter was "was not a 2 stroke person".A lot is said in that statement. > Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: [Fwd: FW: Virus Alert]]
>> > Also, do not open or even look at any mail that says "RETURNED OR UNABLE >> > TO DELIVER" (FOLLOWING ONLY THIS MESSAGE). This virus will attach itself >> > to your computer components and render them useless. Immediately delete >> > any mail items that say this. AOL has said that this is a very dangerous >> > virus and that there is NO remedy for it at this time. Please practice >> > cautionary measures and forward this to all your online friends. >> > >> > This is one of the newest urban legends to hit the airwaves.There is no such thing as an email virus.I wish I still had a write up that was sent to me after I in good faith tried to pass on the warning. Also keep an eye out for a message from Bill Gates offering you a thousand bucks for resending an email. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SVerrill(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 21, 1998
Subject: Hello from New Mk III builder
Good Morning I am a the proud owner of a whole lot of aluminum tubing that I am told will one day be my favorite toy..... To that end...... I would appreciate some assistance from those of you more experienced than I, in setting up my shop properly: 1. Where do I find a good snap punch? 2. What tools for the riveting......is pneumatic recommended? 3. I have a belt/disc sander.......do I need a grinder? 4 Any other suggestions regarding the workshop/tools or otherwise? Thank you for your assistance!!! I have been a member of the list for about a month and have found it exceedingly informative. Kind Regards, Steve Verrill Melbourne, Florida Utica, New York Windham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: [Fwd: FW: Virus Alert]]
Date: Jun 21, 1998
Try the following location for virus information: http://www.kumite.com/myths/ Ron Carroll Original Firestar -----Original Message----- From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> Date: Sunday June 21 1998 7:02 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: [Fwd: Re: [Fwd: FW: Virus Alert]] >>> > Also, do not open or even look at any mail that says "RETURNED OR UNABLE >>> > TO DELIVER" (FOLLOWING ONLY THIS MESSAGE). This virus will attach itself >>> > to your computer components and render them useless. Immediately delete >>> > any mail items that say this. AOL has said that this is a very dangerous >>> > virus and that there is NO remedy for it at this time. Please practice >>> > cautionary measures and forward this to all your online friends. >>> > >>> > > > This is one of the newest urban legends to hit the airwaves.There is >no such thing as an email virus.I wish I still had a write up that was sent >to me after I in good faith tried to pass on the warning. Also keep an eye >out for a message from Bill Gates offering you a thousand bucks for >resending an email. > > > > Woody > >- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MJWAY(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 21, 1998
Subject: Nose Cone Repair Questions
I have put a small crack in the nose cone of my FireFly and have a couple of questions about repair techniques. Perhaps some folks on the list would be kind enough to give me some advice. I landed about 6 feet short and caught the wheels in soft dirt. The nose came down on the dirt runway and I skidded to a stop nose down. The crack is at the lower front end of the nose cone and is in an L shape. The diagonal measurement from one end to the other is 2.75 inches. A portion of the crack has had fiberglass gouged out. The gouge is 1/8 th inch wide and runs across 1.45 inches and then the L gouge turns vertical for another 1.175 inches. The gouge is about 3/4 the depth of the fiberglass thickness but a crack it its bottom goes all the way through. I plan to repair the nose cone in place. I have never done any fiberglass repair before. I will go by some auto and marine parts stores to check out available fiberglass repair kits. Any particular brand worth recommending? My main question is as follows: I plan to apply several layers of epoxy and cloth on the inside of the cone. Then I will fill the external gouge with epoxy and sand flush. To keep the repaired outer surface smooth with the surrounding surface and yet at the same time seal over a crack that extends an inch beyond one end of the gouge, I plan to apply just a single layer of cloth to the outer surface. Does this sound like a good plan to any of the folks on the list who have fiberglass repair experience? Do I need to use more cloth layers on the outside? Any confirmation of the appropriateness of my plan or suggested better techniques would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Chris Wayland ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charles Segar <segarcts(at)qtm.net>
Subject: antenna
Date: Jun 21, 1998
I am putting a antenna on firestar and would like to know if it makes a diff. how llong i cut the coax cable.I am mounting it under the pod . ANY IDEAS ? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 1998
Subject: MJWAY(at)aol.com: Nose Cone Repair Questions
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
--------- Begin forwarded message ---------- From: MJWAY(at)aol.com Subject: Kolb-List: Nose Cone Repair Questions Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 12:40:15 EDT Chris wrote: I have put a small crack in the nose cone of my FireFly and have a couple of questions about repair techniques........ out Chris, You wrote about using epoxy. The nosecone is made out of polyester resin. You can use the two, epoxy/polyester but their not really compatable. I would suggest polyester body putty to fill the voids. There is a "light" version to keep the weight down. I'd use a light layer on the outside , but would put afew layers of "medium" cloth on the inside. Remember, the strength is in the cloth, not the resin. Try using "laminating" resin as you buildup layers, but use "finishing" resin on the last coat on the outside. It has wax in it, will make it easier to sand. Also, lightly sand the inside of the nosecone so the resin has something to grip. PS. I put my Firestar on its nose the first time I used my hydraulic brakes. Gouged the nosecone, but almost destroyed my ego! Also I'd like to see afew more layers of glass in the nosecone, even tho their would be a slight weight penalty. --------- End forwarded message ---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Hello from New Mk III builder
> 1. Where do I find a good snap punch? > 2. What tools for the riveting......is pneumatic recommended? > 3. I have a belt/disc sander.......do I need a grinder? > 4 Any other suggestions regarding the workshop/tools or otherwise? > First don't be a tool junkie.Tool quality often depends on how often you intend to use it.My Sears bottom of the line pop riveter has probably pulled 20,000 rivets and it is still going strong a bit battered and not real pretty but works good.If you are going to do a lot of pop riveting after you do this maybe go for the air gun.The less you spend on unnecessary tools the more you have for other goodies.Grinders come in handy but your sander should be adequate.I would recommend a file for anything on the frame rather than a power grinder just in case you slip.File all the square corners you can find on the frame cause one of them corners has your name on it and will gouge you when you least expect it.It also gives a more professional look to your project.The hand swage tool works good and I feel you have more control over cable tension with it.When cutting out gussets make one out of cardboard first to get the right angle and then copy it onto aluminum.Don't be afraid to use Mexican solder(duct tape)to hold parts you need to temporarily clamp.Works good and sometimes better than "real" clamps. recomendations for tools-- hand pop riveter,assorted files,a lot of 1\8 drills(Ask around for sheet metal bits.They are pointed at each end so you can turn them around when they get dull.)DUCT TAPE,screw down swage tool, string, bubble level,long straight edge,beer. That should get you going. Most of the stuff you probably have allready and anything else you can buy as you need it. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 1998
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Subject: Re: Nose Cone
>PS. I put my Firestar on its nose the first time I used my hydraulic >brakes. Gouged the nosecone, but almost destroyed my ego! Also Last year the question arose about installing the nose guard to prevent such damage.I was told it dosn't happen.Kolb pilots never put their machines up on the nose so the guard was not important.Perhaps the writer didn't like my use of a non technical term (BooBoo) for such an incident.Was the nose guard installed when you stopped to look at the grass? I know my guard has a good bend in it and some minor damage to the pod but not enough to be concerned about yet. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 1998
Subject: Re: antenna
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: >I am putting a antenna on firestar and would like to know if it makes >a >diff. how llong i cut the coax cable.I am mounting it under >the pod . >ANY IDEAS ? This is just my opinion and like those dreaded e-mail viruses, you'll find people totally convinced on both sides. I say cut the cable just as long as needed plus about 8 or 10 inches for future repairs (replacing couplers, if needed). Cutting cable in wavelength increments won't improve the radio's performance enough to justify carrying the extra weight around for the life of your plane. A big coil of extra wire is more apt to pick-up ignition noise as well. -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Builders' tools
Date: Jun 21, 1998
Hi Steve: ON 5/23, I sent a message to the group on your subject. I'll try sending it as an attachment to this. Should be interesting - first time I've tried it. Good luck on your project. Big Lar. From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Mark III Newbee Date: Sat, 23 May 1998 20:28:13 -0700 Good luck on your new project. There's a couple of things I found when building mine that I haven't seen on the group. The biggest thing is a 4" belt / 6" disk, bench sander with a fine grit belt. Mine is a Delta Mod. 31-460, Type 2. Around $130.00, but it quickly became indispensable. Seldom use my bench grinder any more. With care you can do fairly fine polishing, and with a medium belt and some pressure, you can really cut metal. Also very handy is a snap punch. Don't get the $20.00 one with the wooden knob on it from Home Depot. They're junk. General Hardware's # 79 snap punch is in the same price range from the same store, and lasts forever. Takes a little knack to use it right. To pick up the dot from the punch, try a Black + Decker "Bullet Bit". It has a little tip on it to act as a starter drill. Much easier to start an accurate hole. Then, when you have a hole in sheet metal, and want to drill a piece accurately behind it, e.g. - hinges, try a "Turbomax" bit from Chief Auto Parts. I think they're made by Irwin, p.n. 73308. They resemble a woodworking Forstner bit, with a shrouded tip. Otherwise, I have a real bad time trying to pick the center of the hole for a standard bit. Neither of the above bits holds up very well on 4130, especially the Turbomax. For 4130 steel, I like the standard Titanium or Cobalt twist drills. Good luck. Big Lar. ---------- > From: BICUM <BICUM(at)aol.com> > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Mark III Newbee > Date: Wednesday, May 20, 1998 3:03 AM > > Group, > > I received my plans/manual a few days ago for the Mark III. It is 4:00 AM and > I'm up thinking about gussets on trailing edges to get a smooth finish. I > tend to fixate and it is going to be a long year of building. In a previous > posting Cliff listed his recommendations for building a Mark III: > > 13.Extra tools - bench vice, grinder with wire brush, Dremel tool. > 14.Methods - I used gussets on trailing edges for a smooth cover and > Polytone paint. > > Any input and advice from the group on these two particular items would be > greatly appreciated (especially from John H). I had the pleasure of seeing > John H's Mark III at SnF last month and actually spoke with the legend > briefly. To the inexperienced eye, it looked as if the trailing edges on > Miss P'fer were smooth as glass. I'm guessing John used a bent continuous > outside tube with ribs attached by gussets on his trailing edges. I was awe- > struck by the quality and workmanship that went into Miss P'fer. Then John > casually mentioned that this was his third Kolb and he had learned a lot along > the way. Any input based on the all your individual experiences would be > greatly appreciated. > > Thanks in advance, > > John Bickham > Sleepless in St. Francisville, LA > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net>
Subject: Thunderstroms bad, catfish good
Date: Jun 21, 1998
Hi all, Just got my SS back from the Geneva, AL fly-in. Unfortunately, this was a day later than planned. The weather was great when I flew over yesterday, but that didn't last long. By the time I wanted to leave, we were surrounded by thunderstorms. I went up to "take a look" then beat a wise and hasty retreat back to the airport just in time to tie the plane down and watch it get pummeled by the storms. Fortunately, it survived without any damage, and it's much cleaner than it was (John and Rut, the rain washed off the spots). I had many offers to put me up for the night, but my wife came and got me. She also took me back to the airport this morning to retrieve the plane. Her 7 hours of driving will cost me a large number of husbandry points, and I didn't have many to spare :-) There were maybe 20 planes at the fly-in while I was there. This included 4 Kolbs- a FireFly, a Flyer (off-line comments only), John Hauck's Mark-III, and my SS. There was also a Ferguson, a handful of Challengers, a few powered parachutes, a gyro, a Kitfox, a mini-max, and a helicopter. I got to meet Rutledge Fuller, John Hauck, and a guy that's building a SS in Defuniak Springs named John Wayland (?). Due to the thunderstorm delay, I got to spend many hours with John Hauck- a fine fellow indeed. I recommend that you carry a map with you if you plan to meet him. Just spread the map out, and get comfortable because he's got lot's of fine stories to tell. Thanks John. As promised, the highlight of the evening was a great catfish dinner. This area is full of catfish farms, and they really know how to cook em- yum. Rut also insisted that I mention the line-dancing demonstration that preceded the dinner. It was his favorite part of the evening, but I think he was mad that they wouldn't let him dance :-) Russell Duffy Navarre, FL SlingShot SS-003, N8754K RV-8A, 80587 (wings are here) rad(at)pen.net http://www.pen.net/~rad/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 1998
From: Adrio Taucer <adrio(at)capitalnet.com>
Subject: Re: antenna
If your antenna is matched to the frequency of the radio then it does not matter how long the cable is (except for cable loss which increases with cable length). If however the antenna is not matched to frequency one can "cheat" as it were by using the cable as an impedance transformer. I sent a posting to this list about two years ago going into this in great detail, you could try and find it in the archive (and to the one fellow who kindly asked - no I will not get into the Smith charts). If you would like some detailed help write back with details and I will try to help. Adrio Charles Segar wrote: > > I am putting a antenna on firestar and would like to know if it makes a diff. how llong i cut the coax cable.I am mounting it under the pod . ANY IDEAS ? > - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 1998
From: Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: toed in...
oops, My plane is on the gear now... but like someone else mentioned recently I seem to have made it pigeon toed. I had a piece of angle Clamped to both of the axle holders to keep them in line but aparently that doesnt neccesarily work. when I turned the plane right side up the axle holders are pointing forward significantly. help? is the best solution to get new axle holders from kolb and drill them so that they match the holes in the gear legs but are straight this time? I really dont like the idea of redrilling the gear leg, top or bottem. I dont think I could budge the gear on the left side, as I really had to pound on it to get it in there in the first place. the right one went in with only modest hits of the rubber malot. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Steinhagen" <bsteinhagen(at)itol.com>
Subject: Re: Hello from New Mk III builder
Date: Jun 21, 1998
Steve, Stanley makes a snap punch. I like Northern Hydralics pneumatic riveter. Bruce FS-II ---------- > From: SVerrill(at)aol.com > To: kolb(at)intrig.com > Subject: Hello from New Mk III builder > Date: Sunday, June 21, 1998 7:23 AM > > Good Morning > I am a the proud owner of a whole lot of aluminum tubing that I am told > will one day be my favorite toy..... To that end...... I would appreciate > some assistance from those of you more experienced than I, in setting up my > shop properly: > 1. Where do I find a good snap punch? > 2. What tools for the riveting......is pneumatic recommended? > 3. I have a belt/disc sander.......do I need a grinder? > 4 Any other suggestions regarding the workshop/tools or otherwise? > > Thank you for your assistance!!! I have been a member of the list for about a > month and have found it exceedingly informative. > > Kind Regards, > > Steve Verrill > Melbourne, Florida > Utica, New York > Windham, Maine > - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: toed in...
>oops, > >My plane is on the gear now... but like someone else mentioned recently >I seem to have made it pigeon toed. I had a piece of angle Clamped to >both of the axle holders to keep them in line but aparently that doesnt Howdy Chris: I wouldn't get all wrapped around the axle if you have a little toe. A little toe-in take a little load off the gear legs while moving fwd. A little toe out will spread the gear legs progressively as you move fwd. Drag induced by spinning up the wheels on landing and during application of brakes tends to take the toe-in out. It sort of balances out, except when backing up. I am in the habit of taking the load off one gear or the other by lifting a wing at the lift strut fitting (upper). IMHO. john h PS: It works for me in a MK III that weighs 630 lbs empty. PSS: Had a nice flt down to Geneva, Al, and rtn (230 miles). Cruised at 8,000 ft down (to stay cool) and 200 to 1500 ft back. Love it. Hot as hell at the Flyin, but the catfish and line dancers made up for the discomfort. Anyhow, they wouldn't feed us the catfish until the line dancers did there thing. Miss P'fer is flying in fine form. Almost ready to load up and fly to Texas. This will be my first XC in a Kolb with a co-pilot, Brother Jim. Dennis said if I have a problem with him, to put him on the tailboom. No sweat. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: NGB6011B(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: mark 111
Yes I would like to here from any one with mark 111 with 912 on them. What is your empty weight. How does it fly. Is it a little squirrely taxing. What kind of fuel use (gal per hr.) What about brakes are u on them all the time taxing and how about run up. Any vibration when taxing slow or fast ( tires move alot. and feel like they move alot or just need to get use to ? ) How did your weight and balance come out. What your landing and take off technique. What type of runway r u using. And anything else. Thank you Gary Blecha Mark 111 owner with 912 EIS. Have not flown let. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com>
Subject: RE: mark 111
Date: Jun 22, 1998
My Mark III, N626SB, http://members.aol.com/scottbntly/index.htm was completed 2/97 and now has 51 hours of operation. What is your empty weight? *** About 580 pounds with full fuel How does it fly. *** Great Is it a little squirrely taxing. *** No What kind of fuel use (gal per hr.) *** Not sure, since my totalizer is wildly inaccurate (I need to fix this,) but I think less than 3 gallons per hour. What about brakes are u on them all the time taxing *** Hydraulic Matcos, which I do NOT ride taxiing. and how about run up. *** They hold to 3500 RPM Any vibration when taxing slow or fast ( tires move alot. and feel like they move alot or just need to get use to ? )*** Not a problem for me, but I am almost always on grass How did your weight and balance come out. *** Like every 912 I've spoken with, it indicates nose ballast required for solo operation, but flight testing indicates ballast is NOT required. What your landing and take off technique. *** I learned from Dan at Kolb, if possible you should take a trip to Pennsylvania to do the same. What type of runway r u using. *** My private strip, 1200 feet and plenty long enough ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: My advise on getting advise
Anyone needing advise and Gary(I'm using his post as an example), I don't have a Mark III, but I have some advise on how to get information from the group. Ask fewer questions and provide more information of what problems that you are trying to solve. For example: You asked about "squirrely taxing"; if you are taxing yours, and you find it "squirrely", say so and ask if this is normal or not. This is a group that is based on sharing information. They don't respond as well to people that just ask questions. They respond well to people who say what their problems are, and ask for help solving them. It also helps to let the group know you a little about you. For example: Tell us how many hours that you spent building and over how many months, and that you are concerned about the first flight(only in your own words). Then people will identify with you and will be movivated to help. Gary, I hope that you don't mind that I used your post for an example. I have just noticed some newer list members that haven't got the feel for the group yet, and I don't want them to give up if they don't get much of a response to their first couple of posts. John Jung Firestar II N6163J 13.5 hrs SE Wisconsin Kolb List Map Maker > >NGB6011B(at)aol.com wrote: > Yes I would like to here from any one with mark 111 with 912 on them. What is > your empty weight. How does it fly. Is it a little squirrely taxing. What kind > of fuel use (gal per hr.) What about brakes are u on them all the time taxing > and how about run up. Any vibration when taxing slow or fast ( tires move > alot. and feel like they move alot or just need to get use to ? ) How did your > weight and balance come out. What your landing and take off technique. What > type of runway r u using. And anything else. > Thank you, > Gary Blecha > Mark 111 owner with 912 EIS. > Have not flown let. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: mark 111
>Yes I would like to here from any one with mark 111 with 912 on them. What is >your empty weight. How does it fly. Is it a little squirrely taxing. What kind >of fuel use (gal per hr.) What about brakes are u on them all the time taxing >and how about run up. Any vibration when taxing slow or fast ( tires move >alot. and feel like they move alot or just need to get use to ? ) How did your >weight and balance come out. What your landing and take off technique. What >type of runway r u using. And anything else. Thank you Gary Blecha Mark 111 >owner with 912 EIS. Have not flown let. Howdy Friend: I am the proud owner of a MK III w/912. 1150 hrs on airframe and 910 hrs on 912. I put all the time on both. I see you have a lot of questions about all aspects of the MK III. More than I can answer by e-mail at this time. But feel free to call me and we can fill you in on what I know about the bird and flying it. john 334/567-6280 Titus, Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayland, William C." <wcw2573(at)eagle.sbeach.navy.mil>
Subject: System Test
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Have not received any mail to the list dated after 6/19/98. Is there problem? Chris Wayland DSN 873-7111 (562) 626-7111 (562) 987-8504 Pager ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: Re: Hello from New Mk III builder
In a message dated 6/21/98 10:08:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time, SVerrill(at)aol.com writes: << 4 Any other suggestions regarding the workshop/tools or otherwise? >> I would get about 100 clecos and a cleco pliers. They made a huge difference in the quality of the work that I did on my second kolb. The other thing I would do is something I have been telling Dennis he should include in the kit. Go to your local metal fabricating place and get them to made a very simple jig for you. Have them make a couple of sleel strips one inch wide and one eigth of an inch thck and about a foot long. Have them use their CNC machine to drill 1/8 holes in a stright line on one inch centers. This simple jig will help you make your rivet lines super straight and consistent. It can make a big difference in the appaearance of your plane. I think I paid $20.00 for four strips. I got the idea from Dennis when I went to the factory and asked how they made their rivet lines look so good. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: My advise on getting advise
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Hi John, I was just reading your last post and noticed the omission of the original Firestar in your 'Signature' at the end. Did you sell it? I'm still struggling along with mine. I have had problems getting the BRS to fit inside the cage. The layout I got from BRS showing the recommended method won't work. I think it is because I have a BRS5-750# and they assume a 500# is being installed. Once I get it put in I can start covering the cage. I had a lot of trouble with the taping process. It just wouldn't stay stuck, especially around the leading and trailing edges. Friends have said that the tape provided by Kolb was too heavy and doesn't like to flex properly. Had I know that I would have bought new tape before I started. Too late now. I think that overall the plane will turn out quite well, I'm pleased with it despite all the 'overwhelming' problems this non-experienced builder has had. I think if I were to build another it would be MUCHO easier! I hope I don't run out of good Oregon weather before I run out of time. Have FUN and I'll be thinking of you all with envy. Ron Carroll Original Firestar -----Original Message----- From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> Date: Monday June 22 1998 6:11 AM Subject: Kolb-List: My advise on getting advise >Anyone needing advise and Gary(I'm using his post as an example), > I don't have a Mark III, but I have some advise on how to get >information from the group. Ask fewer questions and provide more >information of what problems that you are trying to solve. For example: >You asked about "squirrely taxing"; if you are taxing yours, and you >find it "squirrely", say so and ask if this is normal or not. This is a >group that is based on sharing information. They don't respond as well >to people that just ask questions. They respond well to people who say >what their problems are, and ask for help solving them. It also helps to >let the group know you a little about you. For example: Tell us how many >hours that you spent building and over how many months, and that you are >concerned about the first flight(only in your own words). Then people >will identify with you and will be movivated to help. > Gary, I hope that you don't mind that I used your post for an >example. I have just noticed some newer list members that haven't got >the feel for the group yet, and I don't want them to give up if they >don't get much of a response to their first couple of posts. >John Jung >Firestar II N6163J 13.5 hrs >SE Wisconsin >Kolb List Map Maker > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: Christopher John Armstrong :
toed in...
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
--------- Begin forwarded message ---------- From: Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net> Subject: Kolb-List: toed in... Date: Sun, 21 Jun 1998 22:36:52 -0600 References: Topher wrote: oops, My plane is on the gear now... but like someone else mentioned recently I seem to have made it pigeon toed. I had a piece of angle Clamped to both of the axle holders to keep them in line but aparently that doesnt neccesarily work. when I turned the plane right side up the axle holders are pointing forward significantly. help? is the best solution to get new axle holders from kolb and drill them so that they match the holes in the gear legs but are straight this time? I really dont like the idea of redrilling the gear leg, top or bottem. I dont think I could budge the gear on the left side, as I really had to pound on it to get it in there in the first place. the right one went in with only modest hits of the rubber malot. Topher Topher... Do to the fact that the landing gear is angled out, I don't think the gear will EVER track straight. "I'll probably get alot of flack for this", but I think the gear is the weak spot in a supurb design. If you align the wheels with the plane empty, than get in, (extra weight) and roll the plane forward, you will notice that the wheels track more toe out . I had the same problem with too much toe in as you, even after using the angle-iron alignment procedure. This is what worked for me. I put some weight in the plane, forgot the angle-iron, and aligned them by eye,and by a straight edge along the side of the tire. Then I clamped the axle bracket and aluminum gear tightly. I than rolled the plane forward to check alignment. Than I redrilled bolt hole one size bigger (be carefull here). Been that way for a year. Hope this helps. Bob Doebler --------- End forwarded message ---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re:Kolb:mark 111
Scott Bentley wrote: snip.. > How did your weight and balance come out. *** Like every 912 I've spoken > with, it indicates nose ballast required for solo operation, but flight > testing indicates ballast is NOT required. snip.. > Scott, I would be cauious about assuming that "flight testing" can tell you that ballast is "NOT" required. If you are assuming that because it is stable in pitch, everything is O.K., you may be wrong. Personally, I wouldn't even take off with an out of CG condition, much less go through the tests that would be required to prove that it is safe. Stall and spin recoveries are adversly affected by CG. These are the things that already, in my opinion, cause most accidents in Kolbs. John Jung Firestar II N6163J SE Wisconsin P.S. I originally sent this back to Scott alone. I forgot to change the address to the group. Scott Bentley wrote back: > > Initial testing was done with the indicated ballast. > > Subsequent determination that the ballast was not needed was done AT KOLB, > by Dan and Dennis. > > I certainly agree with you, but when the manufacturer tells me the ballast > is not needed, I believe him. > > It might be worthwhile to post some subset of this to the web. > Scott, You didn't say before that the factory approved your aft CG. You said "flight testing". Besides, I doubt that they would approve an aft CG on any Kolb without knowing what the CG was. So I still object to the statment "ballast is NOT required". If Kolb has approved a CG that exceeds the published limit, then the specific "new" limit would be helpful. What was the actual CG on the plane that they tested? John Jung ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Landing gear/axle alignment
Hey Guys: I think it is important to align the gear straight. I have done a few on my Firestar and MK III. This is how I do it: I use a piece of heavy, at least 1/4 inch thick angle iron. I rig with airframe in normal 3 pt position. Clamp axles to the angle iron securely. (insure angle iron is straight before beginning operation) Use large vise grips with protected jaws and clamp axle socket to lower gear leg (clamp it very tight) Then drill (if the axle socket does not come predrilled, then drill it first) Works for me. john ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net>
Subject: BRS fit
Date: Jun 22, 1998
>I'm still struggling along with mine. I have had problems getting the BRS >to fit inside the cage. The layout I got from BRS showing the recommended >method won't work. I think it is because I have a BRS5-750# and they assume >a 500# is being installed. Once I get it put in I can start covering the (snip) >Ron Carroll >Original Firestar It may have nothing to do with the fit problem you're having, but make sure you have the correct style of canister. I mounted mine on top of the SS, but it just seemed to be too long to fit properly. When I called BRS about it, they said I had received the wrong style of canister for a top mount. They make a short fat one, and a long skinny one for each weight model. They swapped it out without question. Rusty ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Re: My advise on getting advise
To all, >You asked about "squirrely taxing" Sometimes my plane will start bouncing while taxiing down the runway for no reason at all. I suspect that the brakes pads are touching a point on the circumference of the drum. It stops after a few seconds when the oscillation harmonics get at odds with the bouncing. The cable operated drum brakes work good enough for my purposes. I seldom use them anyway except when rolling down hill on pavement. I am sure the hydaullic type would be much better. I know the tires and wheels are no where near in balance. When I am flying down the runway trying to hold it off a foot or two I will occasionally touch the mains and spin up the wheels. Talk about vibration... It gets the shock mounted panel really quivering. So far my cheap instruments are holding together. A quick touch of the brakes will immediately stop the spin and the vibration. I probably should try to balance the wheels to some degree. Knock on wood, so far I haven't had trouble with bearings yet. I have tried to keep the wheel nuts tight enough to be almost snug yet not too tight. I drilled the tail spring a little off vertical (maybe 2 degrees) for the tail wheel and my plane tends to turn one way easier than the other. I sure wish I had hydraullic differential heel brakes with a break away tail wheel so I could pivot on a dime. The way it is now I have to plan a little ahead for turns or utilize a little forward motion to spin it around (careful - not too fast). Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel Kolb MKIII - N582CC (45.5 hrs) ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________ (Netscape Mail Server v2.01) with SMTP id AAA88;
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: LLMoore(at)tapnet.net (Lauren L. Moore)
Subject: whatdayathink??
Hello Kolbers: As you may or may not know I am a new firestar owner/operator. I have reason to believe that I should change the main jet selection in my Bing 54. I run the rotax 377 and although it runs as smooth as can be , very responsive and strong, I notice a rather cool EGT reading and in pulling the plugs for inspection, I noticed that the plugs were sort of a wet sooty black color. The EGT reading I get is 950 at the very most after climb out and when cruise has been established. The jet that is in there now is #165. Do you think that I should try a 160 or 155 main jet? I also use Amoco Premium and Pennzoil 20 cycle at a 50:1 ratio. I know my fuel consumption is much greater when compared to another on the field firestar. Thanks Larry in Sussex N.J. origina Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________ (Netscape Mail Server v2.01) with SMTP id AAA90;
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: LLMoore(at)tapnet.net (Lauren L. Moore)
Subject: not 20 cycle..
In my recent posting about rejetting my bing 54 I referred to the oil used as 20 cycle. I'm sure you all know what I meant to type. :)) Larry in Sussex ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: Ron Hoyt <RONALD.R.HOYT@gd-is.com>
Subject: Transponder
Do anyone of you folks have recommendations for a minimum cost transponder? I am building a Mark III that I want to use for Night VFR. I am developing the electrical system to install the wire harness before covering. One of the items I need is a transponder since I am generally within (under) a controlled airport space. I have looked in some catalogs but everything is pricey. I thought I remembered some supplier having a low cost battery system. Anyone know of one? Thanks Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Howard Penny <penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se>
Subject: RE: toed in...
Date: Jun 22, 1998
What ever you do, DON'T allow any TOE-IN. This may be fine for an automobile but NOT for a tail dragging airplane! A little toe-out may be acceptable but it is best to have none. Let's look at landing where one wheel makes contact before the other. With toe-in the plane will want to turn towards the wheel that is up making the situation worse! With toe-out the plane would tend to turn away from the raised wheel causing it to make contact with the ground a bit more abrupt. A toe-in condition will make any tendency towards ground-looping worse. Howard G. Penny RTP, NC penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se /* ------------------------- */ -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb(at)intrig.com [mailto:owner-kolb(at)intrig.com] On Behalf Of Christopher John Armstrong Sent: Monday, June 22, 1998 12:37 AM To: Kolb Subject: Kolb-List: toed in... oops, My plane is on the gear now... but like someone else mentioned recently I seem to have made it pigeon toed. I had a piece of angle Clamped to both of the axle holders to keep them in line but aparently that doesnt neccesarily work. when I turned the plane right side up the axle holders are pointing forward significantly. help? is the best solution to get new axle holders from kolb and drill them so that they match the holes in the gear legs but are straight this time? I really dont like the idea of redrilling the gear leg, top or bottem. I dont think I could budge the gear on the left side, as I really had to pound on it to get it in there in the first place. the right one went in with only modest hits of the rubber malot. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Re:Kolb:mark 111
John and all, I flew my plane originally with the required ballast to stay forward of the aft limit flying solo with full tanks. Dennis told me that they were conservative with their CG calculations so that builders who weighed with bathroom scales (of dubious accuracy) or made mistakes in arm measurements could make some error without getting themselves into trouble easily. Eventually I removed my extra nose lead (14 lbs) a little at a time. Dennis told me before my first flight that it would not be needed, but... just to be on the safe side "Chicken Little" here added the ballast. I frankly would suggest everyone start out with added ballast if needed. It sure makes a nice first flight... not having to worry about another possible problem to deal with. When they first put the 912 on the MKIII I think they added 30 lbs of lead up in the nose. Since then, I think they have removed most or all of it. I don't know that for a fact though. I guess with the relatively long fuselage tube, big 'ole horizontal stabs and relatively large elevators, the CG (at least at good flying speed) is less of a problem than with some tiny tailed, short coupled designs. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel Kolb MKIII - N582CC (45.5 hrs) ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: Re: Transponder
In a message dated 6/22/98 1:06:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, RONALD.R.HOYT@gd- is.com writes: << I am building a Mark III that I want to use for Night VFR. >> You are a brave man. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Resistor Plugs
To all, Just a quick one to say that I have installed the resistor type spark plugs. I have only 2 hours since the change so it is a little early to say how they are doing. I seems that the EGT readings have dropped a few degrees (guess at 35-45 or so). My radio reception is much better... no stacatto ticking following the RPMs of the engine. Can't tell if it has helped the transmissions yet. Anyone have any comments about the apparent lowering of the EGT readings? Is that a normal consequence of changing to resistor plugs? Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel Kolb MKIII - N582CC (45.5 hrs) ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: whatdayathink??
Larry: I'm no expert, but am getting more dangerous all the time wrt 2-strokes. One, yes, if your plugs indicate you are too rich, you are too rich. Since the EGTs agree with your plug indications, that is all the more definite that you are too rich. If the EGT probes are 100mm from the cylinder walls, the 950 max is a valid comparison to the recommended 1200 max, otherwise the 950 is a relative value only for your own engine. Changing to a leaner main jet may solve the symptom but something else might be the actual problem. I think you should check for the possibility that your carb float is sitting at the right level. I haven't had the pleasure, but I'm assuming too high a float could end up richening the mixture. Also, is the little screen surrounding the main jet in place and in good shape? If all this is good, change down a size or two (buy both a 155 and 160) and see what the EGT curve looks like across the rpm range. -Ben Ransom On Mon, 22 Jun 1998, Lauren L. Moore wrote: > Hello Kolbers: As you may or may not know I am a new firestar > owner/operator. I have reason to believe that I should change the main > jet selection in my Bing 54. I run the rotax 377 and although it runs > as smooth as can be , very responsive and strong, I notice a rather cool > EGT reading and in pulling the plugs for inspection, I noticed that the > plugs were sort of a wet sooty black color. The EGT reading I get is > 950 at the very most after climb out and when cruise has been > established. The jet that is in there now is #165. Do you think that I > should try a 160 or 155 main jet? I also use Amoco Premium and Pennzoil > 20 cycle at a 50:1 ratio. I know my fuel consumption is much greater > when compared to another on the field firestar. Thanks > > Larry in Sussex N.J. > origina Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: RE: nose ballast for 912
How did your weight and balance come out. *** Like every 912 I've spoken with, it indicates nose ballast required for solo operation, but flight testing indicates ballast is NOT required. HI all, With regards to the nose ballast and the 912 for solo operation,nobody wants to add more weight to the plane but have you or anybody without nose ballast GLIDE tested your MKIII with the 912 engine off to simulate emergency engine out conditions when the overhead propeller trust is no longer providing some equivalent of nose ballast force, but rather an additional dragforce that could make things worse or is the slowly turning propeller at engine idle condition already providing this drag. DENNIS or John Hauck, please comment on this please as I am planning to install a 912 on my MKIII soon. Frank Reynen MKIII@440hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re:Kolb:mark 111
>Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 13:29:11 -0500 >To: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling >From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> >Subject: Re:Kolb:mark 111 >In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.32.19980622170011.00665c20(at)dfw.net> > >>John and all, >> >>I flew my plane originally with the required ballast to stay forward of the >>aft limit flying solo with full tanks. Dennis told me that they were > > > > >Hey Guys: > >CG has never been a problem for me in any of the three Kolb designs I have built and flown. If anyone takes advantage of a wide CG range, I do. My Firestar flew with 18 gallons of fuel, 3 gal oil, tent, sleeping bag, air mattress, clothes, food, water, spare parts, tools, and on and on. My Mk III is 912 powered, may have been the first to fly with 912, doesn't matter, but we had to design a system to mount it, as one didn't exist. Fly with even more stuff and 25 gal fuel and 185 lb pilot. All equipment and cargo go behind and under the fuel tank on both aircraft. Have never experienced a cg problem. Don't haul lead around with me on any flight in any configuration. > >However, if the circumstance calls for it or you have any question in your mind if you are in cg limits or not, check it out or call Dennis Souder and get it squared away the way it should be done. Don't always rely on the Kolb List to keep you safe and comfortable. Talk to the guys at the Kolb Co. Nothing is more uncomfortable than flying an aircraft that you have some question in your mind that it may not be exactly the way it should be for safe flight. Get it fixed and then enjoy one of the most free spirited sports available today, ultralight flight and adventure. > >john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Resistor Plugs
>To all, > >Just a quick one to say that I have installed the resistor type spark plugs. >I have only 2 hours since the change so it is a little early to say how they >are doing. I seems that the EGT readings have dropped a few degrees (guess > Hey Guys: Ran resistor plugs in all my 2 cycles to help with RF niose in radio. Bosch WR4CP (Itheeeenk) was the best, a platinum tip plug. Never had any change in performance or gauge indications. With the 447 and the 582 (even with the battery) I also installed a 20,000 resistor between the positive 12 volt wire at the reg/rec and good ground. Bosch metal shielded plugs caps, the resistor, and resistor plugs, took care of all RF noise in my handheld radio, STS and King KX99. On the 912, which comes with resistor plugs, I also run a 20,000 or 25,000mf resistor, and battery, and have no RF noise. Once during an airframe overhaul on the Firestar, I eliminated the resistor. I couldn't receive period. Put the resistor back on and noise was gone. Works for me. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DLSOUDER(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: Re: toed in...
<< What ever you do, DON'T allow any TOE-IN. This may be fine for an automobile but NOT for a tail dragging airplane! A little toe-out may be acceptable but it is best to have none. Let's look at landing where one wheel makes contact before the other. With toe-in the plane will want to turn towards the wheel that is up making the situation worse! With toe-out the plane would tend to turn away from the raised wheel causing it to make contact with the ground a bit more abrupt. A toe-in condition will make any tendency towards ground-looping worse. Howard G. Penny >> Howard, stated it well! Dennis Souder Pres Kolb Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: nose ballast for 912
> > > >How did your weight and balance come out. *** Like every 912 I've spoken >with, it indicates nose ballast required for solo operation, but flight >testing indicates ballast is NOT required. >HI all, > >With regards to the nose ballast and the 912 for solo operation,nobody >wants to add more weight to the plane but have you or anybody without nose >ballast GLIDE tested your MKIII with the 912 engine off to simulate >emergency engine out conditions when the overhead propeller trust is no >longer providing some equivalent of nose ballast force, but rather an >additional dragforce that could make things worse or is the slowly turning >propeller at engine idle condition already providing this drag. Hey Guys: My big fat MK III performs better "dead stick" than it does with pwr. Once the prop wash is eliminated, so is the tendancy to yaw left and nose down. Dead stick, when I slowly ppull the nose up and slow down to say 40 or 45 MMPH, the tail will be very low, but you can take your feet off the rudder pedals, take off the nose up trim, and the acft will be trimmed to fly hands off. Slow down further and the plane will stall, nose will come down and in a moment start flying (almst immediately). All the above with flaps up. Pull in flaps and the acft will come to a level attitude and want to drop the nose, so aft stick is required to maintain level flt. Find an airport with a long runway that is not busy. Announce your intentions to practice actual eng out/dead stick emergency landings. Do a bunch of them and do them often. When the time comes that the eng gets real quiet, you'll be in good shape, have confidence and know how to handle the situation. You will find dead stick that the glide performance of the aircraft will be greatly increased, much more so than with an idling prop. I also make a habit of making most of my landings with eng at idle, or just a hair above to insure then eng won't quit on me. Keeps me from relying on pwr to make the field and a good landing, a habit that is hard to break, even when you lose pwr. Works for me. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: One more alignment note...
I fly from grass, always. Toe-adjustment does not seem to be very critical when using a grass runway. I originally set mine up very neutral, but after the gear legs bent a little, I turned them upside-down. After doing this, I realized they now have a toe-in of about half-an-inch (measured in the space of the tire size). I anticipated a big change in the handling but cannot detect anything. If I tried to land on pavement, I may have problems. One thing I figured out, if it is worth anything to you guys, is this: I studied the motion of the wheels when traveling on the ground, especially when hitting dips and bumps in unimproved fields. The "suspension" action is both up and down and equally fore and aft. So guess what? Your toe-in keeps changing constantly with load on the plane, and braking, etc. And if you watch the wheels when traveling thru a sharp dip in the runway, you'll be amazed at the bending and abuse those legs soak up. I think the person who said he set his alignment with about the right weight in the cabin is on the right track (no pun intended!). I also agree with the guy who said he feels the gear is the weakest link in the Kolb design. I am anxious to see that new gear leg design from Kolb. jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net>
Subject: vert fin mounting, engine mounting
Vertical Fin: Isn't the vertical fin (leading edge) supposed to be mounted a few seconds AFTER 12 on the clock - with 12 being the nose of the airplane? Engine: Isn't the pusher engine prop supposed to be angled a few seconds after 6 on the clock with 6 being the tail of the airplane? Waiting for your instructions - Gerald ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: Re: One more alignment note...
Thanks to everyone on the gear advice. I think I better wait to see what the angle looks like at flying weight.. then fix it. Almost have the seats in... then I can sit in it and grin! Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: whatdayathink??
Larry, You did't say what altitude that you fly from. I recommend stock jets for yor altitude, with the clip set one notch higher (lowering the neddle). I get 2 gph with that combination on a 377 original Firestar and 2.2 gph on a 503 Firestar II. One thing that I watch out for is increased EGT's when decending at 4,000 rpm. With the 377, I have to pull more power off to keep from exceedin 1,200 degrees. This combination has worked well for me on 4 different two cylinder Rotaxes (377, 447, 503) over 8 years. John Jung SE Wisconsin > >Lauren L. Moore wrote: > > Hello Kolbers: As you may or may not know I am a new firestar > owner/operator. I have reason to believe that I should change the main > jet selection in my Bing 54. I run the rotax 377 and although it runs > as smooth as can be , very responsive and strong, I notice a rather cool > EGT reading and in pulling the plugs for inspection, I noticed that the > plugs were sort of a wet sooty black color. The EGT reading I get is > 950 at the very most after climb out and when cruise has been > established. The jet that is in there now is #165. Do you think that I > should try a 160 or 155 main jet? I also use Amoco Premium and Pennzoil > 20 cycle at a 50:1 ratio. I know my fuel consumption is much greater > when compared to another on the field firestar. Thanks > > Larry in Sussex N.J. > original Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Christensen" <spectruminternational(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Landing gear/axle alignment
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Hi John: Isn't there another step in the alignment process?? Namely shouldn't a reference line be stretched from the center of the nose to the center of the tail?? When I aligned my wheels, I used a center reference line and then measured from the reference line to the angle irons attached to each wheel. You must make sure that the distance to the angle iron from the center reference line is the same, both in front and behind each wheel. It's likely that the distance from the reference line to the angle iron will be slightly different from one side to another, but the distance should be the same on EACH SIDE fore and aft of the wheel. The reference line is required because (I think) if one measures only between the angle irons without a center reference line, the distances between the angle irons could be the same with both wheels at the same incorrect angle off dead center (i.e. a parallelogram situation). In other words, you could believe that the wheels are correctly aligned just because the measurements between the angle irons is the same, when in fact they could both be several degrees off the center reference line. This would cause the a/c to track goofy like a car that has a rear end out of alignment. Any thoughts?? Ron Christensen MKIII1/2 -----Original Message----- From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 11:21 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Landing gear/axle alignment >Hey Guys: > >I think it is important to align the gear straight. I have done a few on >my Firestar and MK III. This is how I do it: > >I use a piece of heavy, at least 1/4 inch thick angle iron. > >I rig with airframe in normal 3 pt position. > >Clamp axles to the angle iron securely. (insure angle iron is straight >before beginning operation) > >Use large vise grips with protected jaws and clamp axle socket to lower >gear leg (clamp it very tight) > >Then drill (if the axle socket does not come predrilled, then drill it first) > >Works for me. > >john > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Christensen" <spectruminternational(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Transponder
Date: Jun 22, 1998
I installed a Narco transponder and altitude reporter in my MK III - - yep, they are expensive. I don't know of an inexpensive alternate. The FAA would probably NOT permit such a thing to be sold, hummm? Ron Christensen MKIII1/2 -----Original Message----- From: Ron Hoyt <RONALD.R.HOYT@gd-is.com> Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 10:07 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Transponder >Do anyone of you folks have recommendations for a minimum cost transponder? > >I am building a Mark III that I want to use for Night VFR. I am developing >the electrical system to install the wire harness before covering. One of >the items I need is a transponder since I am generally within (under) a >controlled airport space. I have looked in some catalogs but everything is >pricey. I thought I remembered some supplier having a low cost battery >system. Anyone know of one? > >Thanks > >Ron > > >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Christensen" <spectruminternational(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Landing gear/axle alignment
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Hey John: Thanks for your thoughts ! ! Ron Christensen MKIII1/2 > >-----Original Message----- >From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> >To: kolb(at)intrig.com >Date: Monday, June 22, 1998 11:21 AM >Subject: Landing gear/axle alignment > > >>Hey Guys: >> >>I think it is important to align the gear straight. I have done a few on >>my Firestar and MK III. This is how I do it: >> >>I use a piece of heavy, at least 1/4 inch thick angle iron. >> >>I rig with airframe in normal 3 pt position. >> >>Clamp axles to the angle iron securely. (insure angle iron is straight >>before beginning operation) >> >>Use large vise grips with protected jaws and clamp axle socket to lower >>gear leg (clamp it very tight) >> >>Then drill (if the axle socket does not come predrilled, then drill it >first) >> >>Works for me. >> >>john >> >>- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Waligroski, Greg" <gwaligro(at)ball.com>
Subject: RE: toed in...
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Just an observation from my RC plane days on toe in. On taildraggers we used to put a slight amount of toe in to help them track straight. The theory was that in a taildragger the CG was behind the mains and that if your craft yawed, say left, the left wheel would actually become straight wrt to the direction of travel (less drag) while the right main would develop more angle to the direction of travel, (more drag) and tend to yaw the plane straight again. Toe out landing gear really seemed to make things accelerate toward a ground loop because the drag of a wheel in the direction of the yaw would increase due to increasing side angle while the wheel opposite would get less angle to the direction of travel and less drag increasing the tendency to turn. It is interesting that the Kolbs appear to behave in the reverse manner. Soon to retrieve my FS from NC to CO and for sure to check those toes..... Gregg Waligroski ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: Kolb gear
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
Ron Christesen How about measuring the width of your main gear. Take half of that, make a 90 degree to the tailwheel ( it better be 90 degrees, or the cage isn't straight). This should be your center line -reference line. Bob Doebler ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: kolb covering
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
To Ron Carrol My tape also raised alittle along the edges while gluing down with poly-brush. However when it's dry, I went over it with the iron and it laid down fine. It never raised back up. I think the iron actually presses the tape down into the poly-brush. Bob Doebler ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: Re: Resistor Plugs
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: >... I seems that the EGT readings have dropped a few degrees (guess >at 35-45 or so). ... Cliff, Do you have the large steel shielded plug caps? These have a built-in resistor and you shouldn't run resistor plugs in combination with these caps. I don't think you should be seeing a drop in EGT! I have heard of folks getting less radio static by switching to resistor plugs AND switching to non-resistor (NGK type) plug caps. -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: Re: Resistor Plugs
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: >.... I also installed a 20,000 resistor between the positive >12 volt wire at the reg/rec and good ground. .... Not sure but I think JH meant to say "CAPACITOR" instead of resistor. Just remember to connect the - lead to a frame ground and the + lead to the positive output of your power source (Don't put it in-line!). The capacitor will 'trap' some of the spikes coming thru the power cable and shunt them to ground. Your radio probably already has a built-in filter so put yours at the other end of the power cable as near the source (reg/rect) as possible. If you still get some noise, try putting another capacitor near the radio end of the cable. -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: BRS fit
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Thanks for the input, Rusty. I'll measure my canister and then ask BRS which one I have. To me it appears to be pretty short & fat, but then 'I don't know much of anything'. I had previously installed it on the top of the cage and it looked pretty good. However, the local EAA technical advisor recommended the chute be put inside the cage to avoid a possible entaglement when(if) fired. Also, he brought it to my attention that a top mount could affect cooling air to the engine. He has a lot more experience than I when it comes to building airplanes, but with some ammunition I could argue my case. Because I've only actually seen a couple of Kolbs in my life (poor Ronnie) I would be curious to know which location is the choice of the majority of Kolb builders, and why. Thanks again, Ron Carroll Original Firestar -----Original Message----- From: Russell Duffy <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net> Date: Monday June 22 1998 8:24 AM Subject: Kolb-List: BRS fit >>I'm still struggling along with mine. I have had problems getting the BRS >>to fit inside the cage. The layout I got from BRS showing the recommended >>method won't work. I think it is because I have a BRS5-750# and they assume >>a 500# is being installed. Once I get it put in I can start covering the > >(snip) >>Ron Carroll >>Original Firestar > > >It may have nothing to do with the fit problem you're having, but make sure you >have the correct style of canister. I mounted mine on top of the SS, but it >just seemed to be too long to fit properly. When I called BRS about it, they >said I had received the wrong style of canister for a top mount. They make a >short fat one, and a long skinny one for each weight model. They swapped it out >without question. > >Rusty > > >- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: Re: whatdayathink??
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: >... Do you think that I >should try a 160 or 155 main jet? .... According to the jetting chart from the CPS catalog "Care and Feeding.." series, a 165 jet is standard for a 377 assuming you don't have an intake silencer. Assuming that NJ is between 400 and 1500' MSL and that it's probably between 68 and 104 F when you fly, the correction factor is .97 so, .97*165=160.05. If you don't have a CPS catalog, it's worth the price just for the information by Mike Stratman on Rotax engines. I can't brag about their prices or service but they do rape us on shipping and handling too! -Mick (get my info from CPS, my parts from LEAF, Alexander, and Airparts Inc.) Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net>
Subject: solo vs 2 re: trim
In a Mk III/503, how much left ROLL is typical with a 195 lb. pilot solo vs 2 up? Is there typically any YAW change from solo to 2 up, and which way, left or right, and how much? Do any of you use a rudder trim tab? Awaiting you responses - Gerald ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 23 Jun 1998 03:09:11 UT (Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA8417;
Date: Jun 23, 1998
Subject: Re: Nose Cone
Don't know about his but we formed a skid out of a piece of approx. 1" wide X 1/8" steel on our FireFly and riveted on the bottom down the center line. I tested it by putting it on it's nose. Not really sure if it helped or not. It still tore up the fiber glass nose cone pretty bad. When the FireFly goes on it nose it ends up being in a pretty significant nose down attitude almost on the front end of the nose cone. Because of this it puts a lot of pressure on the nose cone. It drove the push on pitot tube in the ground and tore it off. The slip on plastic & split aluminum coupler saved the inside portion. This pressure causes it to catch more than slide and produces a sudden braking effect. First the dust fly's in down by your feet, then suddenly the dry grass and dirt start coming in. Then the tears start. Our conclusion is skid plate for the FireFly would have to almost extend beyond the front of the nose cone to provided the level of protection desired since it has such an abrupt nose down attitude when in that position. That's where problem comes in. We presently have a partly silver nose cone now (100-MPH Tape). Doesn't look to bad from 25 feet. In our case it's a toss up to repair or replace. We'll probably practice on it and then replace it. Jerry ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Nose Cone Date: 6/22/98 5:32 PM >PS. I put my Firestar on its nose the first time I used my hydraulic >brakes. Gouged the nosecone, but almost destroyed my ego! Also Last year the question arose about installing the nose guard to prevent such damage.I was told it dosn't happen.Kolb pilots never put their machines up on the nose so the guard was not important.Perhaps the writer didn't like my use of a non technical term (BooBoo) for such an incident.Was the nose guard installed when you stopped to look at the grass? I know my guard has a good bend in it and some minor damage to the pod but not enough to be concerned about yet. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 23 Jun 1998 03:09:11 UT (Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA8423;
Date: Jun 23, 1998
Subject: Re[2]: Resistor Plugs
John, Do you mean resistor or capacitor when you refer to the 20,000 & 25,000 - I noticed in your second reference your refer to 25,000 mf (micro-farad) which is a value of a capacitor but refer to it as a resistor. Jerry ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Resistor Plugs Date: 6/22/98 5:37 PM >To all, > >Just a quick one to say that I have installed the resistor type spark plugs. >I have only 2 hours since the change so it is a little early to say how they >are doing. I seems that the EGT readings have dropped a few degrees (guess > Hey Guys: Ran resistor plugs in all my 2 cycles to help with RF niose in radio. Bosch WR4CP (Itheeeenk) was the best, a platinum tip plug. Never had any change in performance or gauge indications. With the 447 and the 582 (even with the battery) I also installed a 20,000 resistor between the positive 12 volt wire at the reg/rec and good ground. Bosch metal shielded plugs caps, the resistor, and resistor plugs, took care of all RF noise in my handheld radio, STS and King KX99. On the 912, which comes with resistor plugs, I also run a 20,000 or 25,000mf resistor, and battery, and have no RF noise. Once during an airframe overhaul on the Firestar, I eliminated the resistor. I couldn't receive period. Put the resistor back on and noise was gone. Works for me. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 1998
From: Cal <cgreen(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: BRS fit
I have a firestar with a 447 and I'm useing a BRS 750 softpack which fits inside the gap seal for the wings, the one problem I'm having with the softpack is I can't use my lexan gap seal that I already had made, I going to try cutting a hole the lexan and covering it with something that the chute can rip threw it. Any idea's?? Cal Firestar I N194CG 90% complete ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Frcole(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Subject: Re: toed in...
Flying from grass the toe in or out makes little difference. The Firestar spends so little time in the takeoff or landing you can control any reasonable errors. I do think the starting point should be wheels parallel with the tail raised to flight position though. FS2 driver -Dick Cole ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: whatdayathink??
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Jun 22, 1998
Larry, My 377 runs fine with the stock jets and needle. The needle is in the center notch (old type). We are at 1500 MSL and my EGT runs 1150 deg in cruise. I used to change main jets for summer and winter flying, but I don't bother anymore. The only thing I change is the idle speed. I increase it in winter and decrease it in the summer to maintain 2000 rpm. This works for me. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar writes: >Hello Kolbers: As you may or may not know I am a new firestar >owner/operator. I have reason to believe that I should change the >main jet selection in my Bing 54. I run the rotax 377 and although it runs >as smooth as can be , very responsive and strong, I notice a rather >cool EGT reading and in pulling the plugs for inspection, I noticed that >the plugs were sort of a wet sooty black color. The EGT reading I get is >950 at the very most after climb out and when cruise has been >established. The jet that is in there now is #165. Do you think that >I should try a 160 or 155 main jet? I also use Amoco Premium and >Pennzoil 20 cycle at a 50:1 ratio. I know my fuel consumption is much greater >when compared to another on the field firestar. Thanks > >Larry in Sussex N.J. >origina Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________ release (PO205-101c) ID# 605-45218U5000L500S0) with SMTP
From: "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)intermediatn.net>
Subject: Re: BRS fit
Date: Jun 23, 1998
Ron, I have my BRS chute (BRS4 UL2XS) on top of my Firestar II. This model chute has a canister about 7" diameter by 17" long so with the mounting hardware it is pretty tall. I mounted it in '95 so there may be others models available now. Anyway, the chute is pointed so that on ejection, it will just miss the prop. Fortunately, I have not tested this theory. However, the cooling on my 503 is a tested result. I have an additional air deflection shield in front of the chute so that my engine is sitting in essentially still air. With a little effort, I sat the chute far enough forward so that the engine's covers can be removed from the engine without demounting the chute. The 503 actually tends to run cool on the CHT. So air flow to the 503 is not a problem on my installation. Vince Nicely Firestar II - N8233G - 160Hrs -----Original Message----- From: Ron Carroll <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> Date: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 1:30 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: BRS fit >Thanks for the input, Rusty. I'll measure my canister and then ask BRS >which one I have. To me it appears to be pretty short & fat, but then 'I >don't know much of anything'. > >I had previously installed it on the top of the cage and it looked pretty >good. However, the local EAA technical advisor recommended the chute be put >inside the cage to avoid a possible entaglement when(if) fired. Also, he >brought it to my attention that a top mount could affect cooling air to the >engine. He has a lot more experience than I when it comes to building >airplanes, but with some ammunition I could argue my case. > >Because I've only actually seen a couple of Kolbs in my life (poor Ronnie) I >would be curious to know which location is the choice of the majority of >Kolb builders, and why. > >Thanks again, > >Ron Carroll >Original Firestar > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rutledge fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: BRS fit
Date: Jun 23, 1998
You could try a two piece aluminum "breakaway" gap seal held together with velcro. ----Original Message Follows---- Date: Mon, 22 Jun 98 22:17:00 -0500 From: Cal <cgreen(at)centuryinter.net> Subject: Kolb-List: BRS fit I have a firestar with a 447 and I'm useing a BRS 750 softpack which fits inside the gap seal for the wings, the one problem I'm having with the softpack is I can't use my lexan gap seal that I already had made, I going to try cutting a hole the lexan and covering it with something that the chute can rip threw it. Any idea's?? Cal Firestar I N194CG 90% complete ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Transponder
>Do anyone of you folks have recommendations for a minimum cost transponder? > >I am building a Mark III that I want to use for Night VFR. I am developing >the electrical system to install the wire harness before covering. One of >the items I need is a transponder since I am generally within (under) a >controlled airport space. I have looked in some catalogs but everything is >pricey. I thought I remembered some supplier having a low cost battery >system. Anyone know of one? > >Thanks > >Ron > > I used a Terra from Gulf Coast Avionics, it was the best price. Buy a Trade-A-Plane and compare ads. The Terra is smaller, and also it uses no magnetron tube like the others do, consequently it has no one major vulnerable part to die and cost much to fix. That was the advice of the guy at Gulf Coast. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: solo vs 2 re: trim
>In a Mk III/503, how much left ROLL is typical with a 195 lb. pilot solo >vs 2 up? >Is there typically any YAW change from solo to 2 up, and which way, left >or right, and how much? >Do any of you use a rudder trim tab? >Awaiting you responses - > >Gerald >- > I use a rudder trim tab and an adjustable aileron tab on the right aileron. The aileron tab is lowered slightly when flying solo, and set in trail when flying dual. Rudder trim tab is fixed, and that works fine. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 1998
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: whatdayathink??
>Hello Kolbers: As you may or may not know I am a new firestar >owner/operator. I have reason to believe that I should change the main >jet selection in my Bing 54. I run the rotax 377 and although it runs >as smooth as can be , very responsive and strong, I notice a rather cool >EGT reading and in pulling the plugs for inspection, I noticed that the >plugs were sort of a wet sooty black color. The EGT reading I get is >950 at the very most after climb out and when cruise has been >established. The jet that is in there now is #165. Do you think that I >should try a 160 or 155 main jet? I also use Amoco Premium and Pennzoil >20 cycle at a 50:1 ratio. I know my fuel consumption is much greater >when compared to another on the field firestar. Thanks > >Larry in Sussex N.J. >origina Firestar >- You may need a smaller main jet, and also you may need to adjust your jet needle. You need to get enough consistant plug readings that also agree with your EGT before you can really trust your EGT. I have found the EGT on mine to be accurate enough that I look for 1050 degrees at full throttle climb out, and 1150 in cruise at part throttle. However I am using an older engine with points, I believe the newer dual plug engines need to run cooler. > Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42oldpoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 1998
Subject: Kolb- spark plugs/caps
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
Mike You said NGK metal plug caps have a resistor in them and shouldn't be used with resistor plugs. I may be wrong but: I thought the standard "bakealite plug cap had a 5000 ohm resistor in it and should be used with non-resistor plugs. The metal NKG plug cap has a 1000 ohm resistor in it and should be used with the resistor plugs for RF noise abatement. You should not use the bakealite cap with 5000 ohms in it, and a resistor plug because the increased resistance will cut down on spark. For what it's worth Bob Doebler ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillU(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 23, 1998
Subject: Richard Pike's MK III
I just uploaded the pictures of Richard Pike's Kolb MK III to my web page. If you want to take a look at them go to; http://members.aol.com/WillU/index2.html Richard I like the modification you made. Will Uribe WillU(at)aol.com Building a FireStar when ever I'm home. http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 1998
From: skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net>
Subject: Happiness is an UltraStar
Hi Kolb fans, As many may have read..... Florida has been almost unbearably hot and humid lately. The perfect air-conditioning system is not made by Trane or one of the other air conditioning companies. The perfect air-conditioner was designed by Homer Kolb. Yesterday evening while flying my UltraStar, I realized how fortunate I was to have such a wonderful flying machine. Granted, there is no enclosed cockpit, no brakes, no chute, no compass and no altimeter...... to say nothing of no radio, no transponder, no encoder or GPS. What the machine does have, however, is wonderful control response and harmony as well as having the ability to bring the joy of flying to its pilot. Thanks Homer for the design and thanks Dennis for doing the flight testing on this wonderful machine. :) Regards, Skip 1984 UltraStar 1946 Swift ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb- spark plugs/caps
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame)
Date: Jun 23, 1998
Bob, As I recall, both a resistor plug and plug cap w/5K ohm should not be used together. The standard NGK B8ES plugs do not have resistance in them (other than the spark gap). I use a plug cap that does have the 5K ohm resistance built in. The ones that were originally on the kit did not. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar 400 hrs writes: >Mike > >You said NGK metal plug caps have a resistor in them and shouldn't be >used with resistor plugs. I may be wrong but: I thought the standard >"bakealite plug cap had a 5000 ohm resistor in it and should be used >with non-resistor plugs. The metal NKG plug cap has a 1000 ohm >resistor in it and should be used with the resistor plugs for RF noise >abatement. You should not use the bakealite cap with 5000 ohms in it, >and a resistor plug because the increased resistance will cut down on >spark. > >For what it's worth > >Bob Doebler ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 1998
From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
Subject: Tail Wheel Springs
To all, I flew about an hour today doing lots of T&G's... all on pavement. When I landed I discovered that one of the chains had disconnected from the spring and I could not turn right off the active. I had to get out and pull it around the corner by hand. I thought I had the chains and spring at the proper tension to prevent that from happening. Evidently not. When I reconnected, I took up one link on each side to give more tension on the connection. I may squeeze the spring loop closed a little more also. I have already bent the "S" hooks closed pretty well. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel Kolb MKIII - N582CC (45.5 hrs) ____________________|_____________________ ___(+^+)___ (_) 8 8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 1998
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: BRS fit
Cal, I made a gap seal out of one piece of .016 aluminum and it covers a 750# BRS. It is attached with 2" velcro. The door for the chute is just a saw cut on the sides and back and held with 1" velcro. On the sides it uses 1/2 of the 2" velcro. Of course it has a hole for the rocket. I will be posting pictures in the future. John Jung > >Cal wrote: > > I have a firestar with a 447 and I'm useing a BRS 750 > softpack which fits inside the gap seal for the wings, the one > problem I'm having with the softpack is I can't use my lexan > gap seal that I already had made, I going to try cutting a hole > the lexan and covering it with something that the chute can rip > threw it. Any idea's?? > > Cal > Firestar I > N194CG > 90% complete > > - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WVarnes(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 23, 1998
Subject: Re: Kolb: whatdayathink??
Larry I now have 268 hours on my Rotax 377 and discovered early on that it also was running way too rich. Plugs were black and sooty with EGT under 1000. Probe is properly positioned. Bing charts give formula for reducing size of main jet due to altitude and temperature, BUT it doesn't say much about the humidity. And here in NJ we have plenty of it. So IMHO you need to change to a smaller MJ. I am presently running a #145, but I am also using the Dial-A- Jet which injects some additional fuel. If I were you I would try going down in size one step at a time. Check the plugs after each try to see what color they are burning. Should be a light chocholate brown. If you need jets, try your local BMW motorcycle dealer, cheaper than aviation parts houses. Bill Varnes Audubon, NJ Original FireStar 377 Now flying out of Alloway airport, near Salem, Southern NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 1998
Subject: Re: Kolb- spark plugs/caps
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
writes: >Mike > >You said NGK metal plug caps have a resistor in them and shouldn't be >used with resistor plugs. I may be wrong but:.... Nope, I was wrong, you are right. Thanks for correcting! The LOW resistance (1k ohm) caps are the big steel ones referred to as 'Bosch type.' The HIGH resistance (5k ohm) caps are the bakelite NGK type - according to the CPS catalog :-) As a lame excuse for my mistake, my Flyer has 'bakelite' caps of unknown origin, they don't say NGK but look similar (I forget where I got them but I put them on several years ago). They have no internal resistance (measured with a meter) just as the original caps and I don't run resistor plugs in the Solo engines. The funny thing is I've never had a static problem with my CB - go figure. I guess there's two points to all this, 1) "When in doubt, put a meter on it!" and 2) "If my memory was better, I wouldn't need the books!" Cliff, what Bob and Ralph said! -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 1998
Subject: Re: toed in...
From: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine)
>Flying from grass the toe in or out makes little difference. The >Firestar >spends so little time in the takeoff or landing you can control any >reasonable >errors. I do think the starting point should be wheels parallel with >the tail >raised to flight position though. >FS2 driver -Dick Cole My Flyer has some toe-out, maybe 2 or 3 total between both wheels. I had to re-design the axle assemblies early-on due to failure of a weld (Flyers were not factory welded) and I screwed-up the toe-in/out in the process. Dick's right about it not making much difference on grass. When I fly from a paved surface, I notice a lateral 'squirreliness' when I lift the tail (high tail boom) on my take-off run. Not a big deal but it wasn't there before I "fixed it." ..Just something to think about. -Mick Fine Tulsa, Oklahoma http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO) http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 1998
From: bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler)
Hey Mike For what it's worth, I forget all the time. Tell everyone it's because I'm over 50. Of course I used the same execuse when I was under 50. Thats why I write everything down. Then I can't remember where I put it. (The paper that is) Bob D ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 1998
Subject: Re: whatdayathink??
From: rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT)
Larry This may not be much help but it may help out some day . On my M/3 ( 582 ) I had high E G T temp.1275 - 1300 this may not seem high too some of the folks in after talking to JOHN at CPS and buying 165 -170 - 175 main's and doing what they said I could not see that much change in the temp's So I called DENNIS at KOLB told him the problem, the fix for the high temp. was put in more pitch in the prop.so I went from 11.5deg. to 13.0 deg. this did the trick So maybe if you took some pitch out your temp. would go up. I am back with the 165 main. Good luck Rick LIBERSAT writes: >Hello Kolbers: As you may or may not know I am a new firestar >owner/operator. I have reason to believe that I should change the >main >jet selection in my Bing 54. I run the rotax 377 and although it runs >as smooth as can be , very responsive and strong, I notice a rather >cool >EGT reading and in pulling the plugs for inspection, I noticed that >the >plugs were sort of a wet sooty black color. The EGT reading I get is >950 at the very most after climb out and when cruise has been >established. The jet that is in there now is #165. Do you think that >I >should try a 160 or 155 main jet? I also use Amoco Premium and >Pennzoil >20 cycle at a 50:1 ratio. I know my fuel consumption is much greater >when compared to another on the field firestar. Thanks > >Larry in Sussex N.J. >origina Firestar >- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SVerrill(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 24, 1998
Subject: New Mark III Builder
Hey Guys............... Thank you... I appreciate your informed responses to my questions on tools and shop set up. I was pleased to hear that simple hand tools and a lot of "old fashion ingenuity" was the overwhelming recommendation. I look forward to benefiting from your collective knowledge many times throughout the process. Perhaps one day..........many rivets from now I will have an idea or two of my own to offer...... until then, I appreciate your patience with questions that have probably been asked numerous times before............... Steve Verrill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Jun 24, 1998
Subject: Tailwheel springs, suggested improvement.
Cliff (and interested others); To eliminate the loss of tailwheel springs, I suggest the following. Order or buy from the hardware store if you can find them, COMPRESSION springs instead of the kit-supplied tension springs. Compression springs look like engine valve springs, and require a couple pcs of heavy wire formed thru them so the chains can be hooked up. In use, the wire pcs compress the spring inward instead of extending it outward. There is almost no way you could lose one, unless chain or something broke. The trick is finding the correct spring. I ordered a "tailwheel spring kit" from Aircraft spruce, which included more chain, springs, and the wire forms. The springs were WAY too heavy, but I found some others and came up with the right combination. Works great, although it is 1/4 pound heavier than stock (significant at the extreme tail-end!). If you don't understand my description, go to the airport and look at tailwheels. You will find compression springs. Then you'll remember where you've seen them before: some screen door limiter chains.


June 03, 1998 - June 24, 1998

Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ar