Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-as
June 24, 1998 - July 16, 1998
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM |
| Subject: | Richard's mods, other ideas |
Richard, your mods look to be in the right direction. Please continue to
keep us updated as your test progress.
Does anyone know of a MKiii that has been built/mod'd to enclose the area
above the fuel tanks, as the area below them is done? In other words, has
anyone enclosed the area behind the pilots head, eliminating the rear view,
but providing a more streamlined closure to the back of the cabin? It seems
to me that the MKii was built this way, and of course it was narrower. What
I am thinking was provoked by Richard's mod photos, some comments by Cliff,
and other misc. Richard is trying to minimize the disturbance caused by
the w/s and doors, to get better flow to the prop and cleaner flow to the
wing center area. Cliff once mentioned that he felt the half-doors were not
adding much flow disturbance, the air seemed to flow straight back from them
like the nose cone alone might do. (please forgive my very rough quoting guys)
My own experience includes the fact that the wind hits me in the back of the
head when I have the full factory doors on and no back window. So I know
the air behind the cabin is in a big swirl that is about five feet wide so
it could extend back 20 feet (except it is intercepted by the prop).
I feel our best performance might be obtained when we create
a more aerodynamic enclosure, not just making it smaller, but making it more
complete with a fully developed closing taper. I realize we are limited to
the existing shape of the cage, but it is not too bad really. I am thinking
about the way the Titan Tornado is constructed. It does not simply end in
a flat surface at the back of the passengers head, it tapers to a close.
I remember seeing something in the Builders Manual about the "rear windows
made of Lexan". My factory rear enclosure is the flexible clear plastic that
velcros in place. Has anyone seen the Lexan rear windows? Are they following
the sides of the cage to taper together near the prop?, or do they simply
square off the back of the cabin where the fuel tanks mount, like my flexible
one does?
In the Arnold video about making wheelpants, I learned there are rules for
aerodynamic shapes, as far as the ratio of thickness to length. We may not
be able to hit this ratio, since we are bounded by the existing cage shape,
but it would be interesting to at least attempt a rudementary aerodynamic
shape to enclose the MKiii (and possibly other Kolb models) cockpit.
Anyone interested in the possibility? Comments welcome, needed...
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrio Taucer <adrio(at)capitalnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Richard's mods, other ideas |
Jim,
Regarding your comments on Richard's mods (which were nice and nice to
see posted as well). I think you may have a valid point. It has been a
long time since school and I ended up going the electronics engineering
route. But one memory I have from the one fluid dynamics course I took
was "the trailing edge of the object is as important if not more so than
the leading edge." Now remember that was a long time ago and I am
quoting a memory I have of a feeling of surprise back when I "learned"
this (I feel much better talking antennae and such).
Perhaps some one on the list with a mechanical or aerospace engineering
background could enlighten us.
--
Adrio Taucer
adrio(at)capitalnet.com
http://www.capitalnet.com/~adrio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Richard's mods, other ideas |
> Does anyone know of a MKiii that has been built/mod'd to enclose the area
>above the fuel tanks, as the area below them is done? In other words, has
>anyone enclosed the area behind the pilots head, eliminating the rear view,
>but providing a more streamlined closure to the back of the cabin
I do not want to speak out of turn because John can certainly speak for
himself. But thought I would mention then John Hauck's M3 is EXACTLY what
you are describing! closed off the area behind the pilots head and I noticed
while examining it in Smith Station, Al. a few weeks ago that he has
fabricated an aluminum rounded (airfoil-like) fairing to enclose the aileron
push pull tubes that completes the curve around the back of the fuselage
just like your describing!
Great minds think alike!!! (Your's and his .... certainly not mine.)
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
P.S. I can't remember the address but Scott Bentley posted some Sun-n-Fun
pictures a while back that showed John's M3 very well...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
Jim and all,
>My own experience includes the fact that the wind hits me in the back of the
>head when I have the full factory doors on and no back window.
You better know it! ...and it includes some raw gas fumes as well... at
least in my plane. With the full enclosure, I don't have any fumes. I have
my tanks turned around 180 degrees with the filler caps just behind my
head... maybe that might be partially why I smell fuel in that situation.
If you make the half doors you don't get that wind at the back of your head
like with the full doors. I guess the air comes together easier behind the
half doors and doesn't create that back flow (or not so much that it is
noticable) like with the full doors.
> My factory rear enclosure is the flexible clear plastic that
>velcros in place. Has anyone seen the Lexan rear windows?
The flexible type wrap around is included in the full enclosure option of
the kits that were shipped since (guessing) '93 or '94. ...and I think it
is an improvment over the Lexan side panels that used to be the rear
enclosure. It (the flex type) comes off in about 3 minutes if you decide
the weather is too warm... and it folds up for easy storage.
I really don't mind all the drag of the cockpit, etc. It is fun to think
about and to try different things to reduce drag. Streamlining the cockpit
would do it. Being from a hot to somewhat cold climate, I am most concerned
with personal comfort of staying cool in the summer as well as staying warm
in the winter months. The Kolb's versatility is perfect for me.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (45.5 hrs)
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ...other ideas |
I know nothing about the mk3 other than I may build one one day but I did try
and clean up a FS2 . I had to weld a small tube around the fuselage sides
near the wing root lower surface to wrap the fabric around and maintain a
decent shape. I added gap seals on the lower surface between the wing and
fuselage, semi enclosed the engine with a nice fairing, put RANS streamlining
on the tailwires and aileron pushrods and streamlined the gear legs. End
result! It flies and performs just like it did. You cannot change a
butterfly into a Hawk. Just enjoy what you have.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
| Subject: | RE: Richard's mods, other ideas |
URL that best shows John's machine:
http://scott.bentley.com/sunnfun981/pic00001.jpg
Just remember "scott.bentley.com"...
=============
> Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
> P.S. I can't remember the address but Scott Bentley posted some Sun-n-Fun
> pictures a while back that showed John's M3 very well...
>
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jhann Gestur Jhannsson <johann.g(at)centrum.is> |
Hi Kolbers,
I have been flying with a new helmet. It is a former Navy jet-pilot
helmet called HGU34/P. I do not know if it is the helmet or that I just
increased the pitch of the IVO prop, but I do get a bad ear-ache after
each flight. The noise or vibration is worst at approx. 4200-5000 rpm.
Has anyone experienced this problem? If so, could you tell me how to
fix it, because I really need my ears for work, it is not acceptable to
use too much "say again" when controlling air traffic.
Best regards,
Jhann G.
Iceland. (enjoying the bright night flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | First Passenger Ride |
To all,
I took up my first passenger today. It was about time. These were my
impressions. Previous to this I had hauled up 120 lbs of bar-bell weights.
The take off roll was normal as well as lift off, but while in ground effect
I realized that I was not going to transition into climb as quickly as when
solo (or with the previous 120 lbs of weight)... the Kolb sorta strugled
along in ground effect. I leveled off to gain a few extra mph more than I
do when solo and then started the climb. Climb was normal with a few extra
mph. I suppose the climb was reduced some, but not significantly.
My passenger weighed about 158 lbs I think he said. It took the 5th or 6th
notch to trim for his and my 165 lbs. I had about 6 gallons of fuel. It
seemed that a small left turn tendency was negated by the right side weight.
The ride was less bumpy than when solo. It seemed like I had to carry maybe
100 rpm (very much a guess) more to hold altitude at a given air speed.
Stalls were pretty much like solo... should have been a little higher speed,
but I could tell no difference from solo. Glides were maybe a little steeper.
Landings were pretty much like solo. Not knowing exactly what to expect, I
did come in a little faster than I normally do and landed (twice). Made a
little hop... small one mind you.
I only made my passenger (an old military pilot) slightly queezy. We did
some runway skipping flights and (at altitude) turns, stalls, and steep
decents with flaps. He was impressed with the power of the 582 and the
steep angle of glide with full flaps. He was not so sure about making a
long cross country in it though. I told him we could climb up several
thousand feet (which we did not) where the air is cool and stable and it
would trim out to fly hand off just like a commercial airliner... air
conditioned and all.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (47.8 hrs)
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
On Wed, 24 Jun 1998, J=F3hann Gestur J=F3hannsson wrote:
> Hi Kolbers,
>
> I have been flying with a new helmet. It is a former Navy jet-pilot
> helmet called HGU34/P. I do not know if it is the helmet or that I just
> increased the pitch of the IVO prop, but I do get a bad ear-ache after
> each flight. The noise or vibration is worst at approx. 4200-5000 rpm.
Maybe kinda obvious, but if the ear-ache has been since you got the
helmut, the problem is more likely the helmut than the noise or vibration.
And, with an ear-ache, it is more likely physical pressure of the helmut
causing the pain than noise getting thru. (Noise damage usually is
followed by ringing and eventual hearing damage after long term abuse.)
What may feel like mild pressure at certain points on your head from the
helmut can get really bad in 30-40 minutes. Sometimes it is simply
the helmut pressing the sides of your glasses, in which case changing
sunglasses might fix the problem. Previously on this list a few
people posted a source for getting a custom made helmut, even made
to fit *your* noggin with *your* glasses. I'm too cheap and didn't
keep the reference.
If it ain't the helmut or noise, i'd see a Dr. about it ...could be
eustacian tube trouble or something else.
(INADIRLOOTV =3DI'm not a Dr in real life or on TV)
-Ben Ransom
> Iceland. (enjoying the bright night flying)
...sounds like fun ...how about some flying sunset pictures.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Richard's mods, other ideas |
>I do not want to speak out of turn because John can certainly speak for
>himself. But thought I would mention then John Hauck's M3 is EXACTLY what
>you are describing! closed off the area behind the pilots head and I noticed
>while examining it in Smith Station, Al. a few weeks ago that he has
>fabricated an aluminum rounded (airfoil-like) fairing to enclose the aileron
>push pull tubes that completes the curve around the back of the fuselage
>just like your describing!
Well, John is probably winging his way toward Texas now, so without his
permission (forgive me), I posted all the pictures that I took of his plane last
Saturday. They are at:
http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~rad/
Note that this will eventually become my new homepage address. My old ISP is
getting out of the private internet business, so I'm in the process of moving.
These pictures will be temporary.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CHRISTOPHER DAVIS" <cdavis2(at)capecod.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Richard's mods, other ideas |
speaking of mods, hi you guys ,after flying solo for 375hrs. in my original
firestar i am,wanting some company!I know my firestar with a single carb on
floats will carry me , 200lbs , floats and rigging 50lbs and two bushels of
steamer clams 110lbs, lunch box fuel and rake apx 10 lbs and still ,get off
the water in a riddicullasly short run!! Why then cant I widen the cockpit
to seat two? is tyhis a crazy idea or is it wha\t inspired the twinstar ?
how much difference ius there between the twin star and 5the firestar KXP
wing ? Iwould really rather modify the airplane ihave than build another
.any comments? chris
-----Original Message-----
From: GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Date: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 2:58 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Richard's mods, other ideas
> Richard, your mods look to be in the right direction. Please continue to
>keep us updated as your test progress.
>
> Does anyone know of a MKiii that has been built/mod'd to enclose the area
>above the fuel tanks, as the area below them is done? In other words, has
>anyone enclosed the area behind the pilots head, eliminating the rear view,
>but providing a more streamlined closure to the back of the cabin? It
seems
>to me that the MKii was built this way, and of course it was narrower.
What
>I am thinking was provoked by Richard's mod photos, some comments by Cliff,
>and other misc. Richard is trying to minimize the disturbance caused by
>the w/s and doors, to get better flow to the prop and cleaner flow to the
>wing center area. Cliff once mentioned that he felt the half-doors were
not
>adding much flow disturbance, the air seemed to flow straight back from
them
>like the nose cone alone might do. (please forgive my very rough quoting
guys)
>My own experience includes the fact that the wind hits me in the back of
the
>head when I have the full factory doors on and no back window. So I know
>the air behind the cabin is in a big swirl that is about five feet wide so
>it could extend back 20 feet (except it is intercepted by the prop).
>
>
> I feel our best performance might be obtained when we create
>a more aerodynamic enclosure, not just making it smaller, but making it
more
>complete with a fully developed closing taper. I realize we are limited to
>the existing shape of the cage, but it is not too bad really. I am
thinking
>about the way the Titan Tornado is constructed. It does not simply end in
>a flat surface at the back of the passengers head, it tapers to a close.
>
>I remember seeing something in the Builders Manual about the "rear windows
>made of Lexan". My factory rear enclosure is the flexible clear plastic
that
>velcros in place. Has anyone seen the Lexan rear windows? Are they
following
>the sides of the cage to taper together near the prop?, or do they simply
>square off the back of the cabin where the fuel tanks mount, like my
flexible
>one does?
>
>In the Arnold video about making wheelpants, I learned there are rules for
>aerodynamic shapes, as far as the ratio of thickness to length. We may not
>be able to hit this ratio, since we are bounded by the existing cage shape,
>but it would be interesting to at least attempt a rudementary aerodynamic
>shape to enclose the MKiii (and possibly other Kolb models) cockpit.
>
>Anyone interested in the possibility? Comments welcome, needed...
> jim
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Richard's mods, other ideas |
The original Firestar wing spar strength is spot on for the gross weight times
4.4 G loading. With the plane lifting more weight the G capability goes down.
Pretty soon you are going to hit a good size bump and make your one and only
landing without wings. Dont even think about it, it sounds as if you are
pushing things way to far already
FRC StLouis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Hi Johann,
I don't have a radio in mine so I can use a full-face snowmobile helmet
which does a good job of blocking out the noise. I must also use foam ear
protection as well. I like this helmet over the motorcycle type because
the face shield has a better rachet that stays open when flying. It has a
dual-pane face shield for anti-fog at low temps, and a breath-deflector
that attaches w/velcro (for winter flying). The three adjustable vents
keep air flowing through.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
writes:
>Hi Kolbers,
>
>I have been flying with a new helmet. It is a former Navy jet-pilot
>helmet called HGU34/P. I do not know if it is the helmet or that I
>just
>increased the pitch of the IVO prop, but I do get a bad ear-ache after
>each flight. The noise or vibration is worst at approx. 4200-5000 rpm.
>
>
>Has anyone experienced this problem? If so, could you tell me how to
>fix it, because I really need my ears for work, it is not acceptable
>to
>use too much "say again" when controlling air traffic.
>
>Best regards,
>Jhann G.
>Iceland. (enjoying the bright night flying)
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb: whatdayathink?? |
> Bing charts give formula for reducing size of main
> jet due to altitude and temperature, BUT it doesn't say much about the
> humidity. And here in NJ we have plenty of it. So IMHO you need to change to
> a smaller MJ.
For most purposes, you can ignore water vapor as affecting mixture.
Temperature and pressure are the main determinants. Water vapor
accounts for about .25% of any effects observed. You are correct in
that you need a smaller jet if water vapor is factored in (dry air is
denser than air with water vapor) but the jet step size would be
vanishingly small.
http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~cskull/atmdensity.html
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Richard's mods, other ideas |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Good advice! The Original FireStar was designed with a 5-rib wing and a
payload capacity of 265 lbs. This includes the pilots weight, fuel, and
anything else aboard. There are old pilots and bold pilots, but no
.......
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
>The original Firestar wing spar strength is spot on for the gross
>weight times 4.4 G loading. With the plane lifting more weight the G
capability
>goes down. Pretty soon you are going to hit a good size bump and make
your >one and only landing without wings. Dont even think about it, it
sounds as if >you are pushing things way to far already
>FRC StLouis
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
(InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with ESMTP
| From: | "Brad Houston" <HoustonBW(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Grounded and needing help |
Own and operate a Kolb Ultrastar with a cuyuna 2 O II engine and Mikuni
carb. Recently purchased 32mm carb from J Bird (Old carb had a hole in
float and J Bird talked me into a new carb). Can't get carb to adjust out.
With a 270 main jet the engine runs great but hot 1300 to 1350 at full
throttle. Mid range also runs hot. When I change to the 280 main jet the
engine runs rough and way to rich (floods out) and it doesn't matter how I
attempt to move the needle it still floods out. I am now wondering what
size carb came on the 2OII (28mm, 30mm or 32mm). J Bird recommended cutting
the tips off the prop to move more air and run the larger (280) jet. Is
this for real? I have read some negative comments about J Birds advise and
don't want to go in the wrong direction. I currently run a 50/30 fixed wood
prop. Please help! I am desperate to get to fly.
Brad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Happiness is an UltraStar |
>
>Hi Kolb fans,
>
>As many may have read..... Florida has been almost unbearably hot and humid
>lately. The perfect air-conditioning system is not made by Trane or one of
>the other air conditioning companies. The perfect air-conditioner was
>designed by Homer Kolb.
Arn't all aeroplanes with that big spinning stick air-conditioned.I know
a couple of times mine stopped spinning and I started sweating.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed McKinnon" <ED_MCKINNON(at)prodigy.net> |
Hello to all:
I am new to this group, about a week. Like reading about all the
questions and answers or suggestions offered by members. I am trying to
decide, what I want to do about Flying. Saw my first Kolb at sun-n-fun
96. Bought the propaganda and fell in love with the design. Visited
sun-n-fun again in 98, and again liked the designs.
If I were to go the FS-2 route I would like the Rotax 503, for the
power. I live in Jax,Fl and do not know anyone building or flying these
type aircraft. If there is someone near Jax, I would like to hear from
you. I would like to see these aircraft upclose and personal. I'm
willing to help with some of the building chores, just to see how this
is done.
Later after I build my on bird, would like to have friends in the air.
Thanks for allowing me to be part of this exchange of information
system.
Ed_McKinnon(at)prodigy.net
private pilot
cessna 172
Jacksonville, Fl
Hello to all:
I am new to this group, about a
week. Like
reading about all the questions and answers or suggestions offered by
members. I
am trying to decide, what I want to do about Flying. Saw my first Kolb
at
sun-n-fun 96. Bought the propaganda and fell in love with the design.
Visited
sun-n-fun again in 98, and again liked the designs.
If I were to go the FS-2 route I
would like the
Rotax 503, for the power. I live in Jax,Fl and do not know anyone
building or
flying these type aircraft. If there is someone near Jax, I would like
to hear
from you. I would like to see these aircraft upclose and personal. I'm
willing
to help with some of the building chores, just to see how this is
done.
Later after I build my on bird,
would like to
have friends in the air.
Thanks for allowing me to be part of
this
exchange of information system.
private pilot
cessna 172
Jacksonville,
Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
The question came up about smoothing in the sides of the fuselage to
improve the airflow back to the prop, and the pictures that have been posted
of John's MKIII illustrate it perfectly. Kolb sells plans for Lexan side
windows that accomplish exactly that same thing, but I was told that they
did not help the performance all that much, and were very noisy.
I got the plans, they were very simple and good, and added some rear
windows. I felt that the performance was somewhat better, and it WAS a lot
noiser, sort of like sitting in a giant Lexan speaker listening to the Rotax
Symphony Orchestra. A friend worked in a stereo shop, and recommended some
sound attenuating foam, so I got some, and covered the insides of both those
rear Lexan panels with it, and it cut the racket in half. Looked odd tho.
The biggest persuader to me is that originally I had a radiator at
the rear of the cage below the wing, and it would not cool enough to fly two
up. After I cut down the windshield and doors, the same radiator, on an 85
degree day would not get above 145 degrees in a climb. Now I have another
radiator that is almost tiny, several of the locals have seen it and shake
their heads, and it is all I need. That says volumes about lack of airflow
with the stock windshield and doors, (turbulence=drag) and the flow under
the center section now.
But the fuselage shape on John H's MKIII is more efficient than the
current factory version. Whether it is more efficient than what I have done,
Who knows? John is using a 912, so he can afford to give away a few
percentage points. And if I was doing as many cross countries as he, I would
probably not be as enthusiastic about open cockpit flying as I am.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | First cross country |
I've been getting bored with the local flying and decided that it was
time to do a little more. I have seventy hours on the Firestar, and have
developed confidence with the plane and the components. I decided that it
was time for a trip. Unfortunately I would have to do it alone. My
intention was to fly to Burns Oregon from Klamath Falls, Oregon. It is a
straight line distance of 168 miles. Klamath Falls is in the foothills of
the Cascade mountain range, and it goes from Poderosa Pine to Juniper and
Sage brush the closer you get to Burns. The highest mountains that I had to
cross is 7200 feet, once past that it is all downhill from there. The winds
in Burns get sort of energetic later in the day so my intent was to get
there before the winds got too bad and stay at a friends house, returning
the next day. They have a driveway that is 3 tenths of a mile long. but
only a car width wide. There is also a pretty substantial ditch on either
side.
I checked with my friend and mentor Jim Baker, who is also a GA pilot,
about the course that I intended on using. We drew it out on my sectional
and checked for landmarks. There was a landing strip right on my course
that I could land at and replenish my fuel if I needed, that was fairly
close to half way. I also made sure that my wife knew where to look if need
be. I took with me a bag containing all the things I needed to maintain the
airplane, Oil enough for the return, tie downs, sleeping bag, first aid kit
and a total of 12.5 gal of gas. Bag and everything besides the gas weighed
30 lbs.
I started setting up the "Dart" at 0600, the day was supposed to be
partly cloudy and was quite cold. The temp was 42 degrees. Takeoff was at
0635. I had 35 miles to pick up the altitude needed to get over "Winter
Rim". My plan was to fly at about 7500 feet most of the way to stay out of
turbulance and to give me a cushion in case of engine problems. I was
unable to do so because of the clouds that seemed to want to hang at about
7200 feet. The lovely ones that are flat on the bottom as if someone had
mashed them. My ground speeds were not quite what I had expected due to the
winds at that altitude, but still averaging in the low 60's. Approaching
Winter Rim I could see more clouds. As I got closer I could see that the
clouds were stacked up against the cliffs of the Rim. Winter Rim is the
last barrier to the Oregon Desert and rises up above the desert floor about
3500 feet. The "pucker factor" rises dramaticly with the act of picking up
another 3500 feet above the ground, not to mention having to fly into a
cloud while you are doing it. Thankfully the cloud wasn't that thick and I
was soon out of it. The turbulence also was fairly brief. I began my long
descent to "Alkali Air Strip", picking up some of the time that I had
invested in crossing the Rim. The airstrip is a gravel runway about 75 feet
wide and 2500 feet long. Landing was uneventful and the chance to move
around a bit and warm up was great. I had been in the air about 1.7 hours
and had 75 miles to go. I had used one 5 gal tank and part of another. I
put the 2.5 gals in the empty tank and took off into the sun. The remainder
of my trip was at 6000 feet over sage and the occasional Juniper. Soon I
was flying along Harney lake and the only problem that I had left was to
pick out my friends house. The GPS put me within a couple hundred yards of
their house. She was waiting by the only post in her Driveway that my wings
wouldn't clear. Since there are no trees in that part of the country, I
managed to totally misjudge the wind direction. Landing with a tailwind is
not something that I am unfamilar with, or disturbed by, but with the extra
speed and the washboard road I managed the first part of my taxi to the
house with only one wheel on the road and the rest over the aforementioned
ditch. A little gas, alieron, and rudder and things were looking up again.
I was fine but my friend wouldn't talk to me for at least 10 minutes. The
trip had taken 3 hours and used 9 gallons of gas. The wind was blowing
about 12mph by the time that I had the plane secured.
I attempted to go the next morning before the sun came up but with the
plane covered with freezing dew and the temps in the high 30's I elected to
wait for the sun to warm things a bit. I still managed to leave at 0605.
The winds of the previous day were gone and it was great to be flying with
the sun at my back. I had at least 75 miles and a landing before I had to
make my climb back to altitude, so I could do a little sight seeing on the
way back. The area around Burns is loaded with game and the trip was a real
teaser. I saw at least 100 Antelope, several deer and three bands of wild
Horses. The water fowl was every where. I shaved 6 minutes off my time
going back, using only 8 gallons of gas. My course deviation was 5 miles
total on both legs of my trip. This was last week, and I'm still buzzing. I
don't think that it will be my last.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grounded and needing help |
Brad,
How long has it been since the engine ran well and did it have that
prop at that time? What is the maximum static rpm?
John Jung
>
>Brad Houston wrote:
>
> Own and operate a Kolb Ultrastar with a cuyuna 2 O II engine and Mikuni
> carb. Recently purchased 32mm carb from J Bird (Old carb had a hole in
> float and J Bird talked me into a new carb). Can't get carb to adjust out.
> With a 270 main jet the engine runs great but hot 1300 to 1350 at full
> throttle. Mid range also runs hot. When I change to the 280 main jet the
> engine runs rough and way to rich (floods out) and it doesn't matter how I
> attempt to move the needle it still floods out. I am now wondering what
> size carb came on the 2OII (28mm, 30mm or 32mm). J Bird recommended cutting
> the tips off the prop to move more air and run the larger (280) jet. Is
> this for real? I have read some negative comments about J Birds advise and
> don't want to go in the wrong direction. I currently run a 50/30 fixed wood
> prop. Please help! I am desperate to get to fly.
>
> Brad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First cross country |
Larry,
Thanks for sharing the story of your first cross-country. I enjoyed
it.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | kolbers in Ft Meyers ? |
Any Kolb fliers live near Ft Meyers Florida, might be moving that way and was
just wondering about the area, etc. is like.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: kolbers in Ft Meyers ? |
>Any Kolb fliers live near Ft Meyers Florida, might be moving that way and was
>just wondering about the area, etc. is like.
I can think of one... Jim Haerer who has either a FireStar or a TwinStar.
He lives in a fly-in community just east of the city of Ft. Myers. I live
about 90 miles to the north.
Fy. Myers and the surrounding area is really growing. In my estimation,
the Ft. Myers area is one of the better places to live in the United
States. Lots of good flying weather and lots of fly-ins. :)
Regards,
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grounded and needing help |
Brad,
I hope that this e-mail isn't sent twice. I got involved with another
project and now can't seem to find the message I'd already started to you. :)
>Own and operate a Kolb Ultrastar with a cuyuna 2 O II engine and Mikuni
>carb. Recently purchased 32mm carb from J Bird (Old carb had a hole in
>float and J Bird talked me into a new carb).
I think I have already suggested to you that motorcycle shops can probably
find a new float(s) for you. If one shop can't be bothered; try another.
You might also try LAPS or 2SI. In the meantime, depending on where the
hole is, you can probably patch the plastic float with a fuel proofed epoxy
cement.
>I am now wondering what
>size carb came on the 2OII (28mm, 30mm or 32mm).
Personally, I'd suggest that you stick with the carb that came with the
OLll-02.
The Cuyuna OLll-02 came with a 32mm Mikuni VM32 carb. The enclosed
attachments show what the Main Jet selection should be. (had to make 2
scans as my 'lil handheld scanner couldn't scan the chart in one pass) For
me, the suggested jets work just fine. Don't forget the adjustments that
can be made to the Jet Needle as shown in the attachment.
>J Bird recommended cutting
>the tips off the prop to move more air and run the larger (280) jet. Is
>this for real?
WHOA! STOP! I don't think that you really wish to cut down your prop!
>I have read some negative comments about J Birds advise and
>don't want to go in the wrong direction. I currently run a 50/30 fixed wood
>prop. Please help!
I think that "J Bird" is leading you astray and is going to cost you big
bucks if you follow their advice. I run a Culver 50x30 prop on my OLll-02
and, if anything, the engine is slightly underpropped as I have to be
careful to not exceed the 6,500 rpm redline.
Regards,
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
>If I were to go the FS-2 route I would like the Rotax 503, for the power. I
live in Jax,Fl >and do not know anyone building or flying these type aircraft.
If there is someone near >Jax, I would like to hear from you. I would like to
see these aircraft upclose and >personal. I'm willing to help with some of the
building chores, just to see how this is >done.
Welcome to the list Ed. I've got a SS waaaaaaay over near Pensacola, so I won't
be able to do you much good unless you want to buy a SS with a 503 (shameless
sales pitch). On my web page, there are some construction photos of the SS,
and some links to other pages with photos. I'm betting you have some Kolb types
close by.
Good luck,
Rusty
http://www.pen.net/~rad/
(note, this URL will probably quit working at the end of the month when my old
ISP shuts down their services)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Richard's mods, other ideas |
I am an aerospace geek and can tell you a little about drag. As far as
the Mark III pod goes there are several things that make it draggy. It
is abit short and fat, tailcones should taper at a bit better then 3 to
1 for least drag. The tail end needs to be sharp. On my FS II the tail
end is 6 inches across, not sure but I think the Mark III is the same.
Laminar flow is best, turbulent flow increases drag around 30%,
separated flow another 50% or more. The Mark III is separated flow
behind the wind screen, and turbulent or separated everywhere else but
maybe the first foot or two of the nose. I dont think your going to get
much laminar flow out of this shape. The Pod to wing junction is not so
good either. There are two ways to get a good fuselage to wing
junction. One is to minimize the joint by cutting down either the
fuslage or the wing to a minimum area at the joint, and the other is to
maximize it with fairings. The Mark III seems to be best suited to the
former. To reduce drag I would shorten the fairing as much as you could
stand and then bring it DOWN away from the wing in a smooth shape to the
top of the covering in the rear and in from the sides, both at as close
to a 3 to 1 angle from the cruise airflow as you can get. The idea is
to get the wing as isolated from the pod as possible, while closing the
pod in a smooth shape. see the streak shadow ultralight to see what I
mean. going from a forward facing cone to a rear facing cone or even to
a cylinder shape puts such a step in the planform shape that it will be
very difficult to keep the flow attached. If you can put a foot long
smooth transition between the front and the rear it would help keep the
flow atttched. Otherwise to eliminate separated flow vortex generators
can be placed at about the maximum width of the pod. There are tons of
guidelines as to what size vortex generators to use and how to place
them. Another option is a slat, a small airfoil placed at the maximum
width about a half chord length away from the surface that is used to
deflect the flow around the corner and keep it attached to the surface.
Either of these are real ugly in my opinion. I would try to put a
fairing to smoothly close the end of the cage but you dont have much
prop clearance. You could use the fairings on the aileron pushpull
tubes as slats to curve the flow around the back of the cage but I am
not sure if you would put undo stress on the tubes. If you want to
really reduce the drag you need to skinny up your cage (why I am
building a FS II.) I have some ideas for what the Mark IV should be,
but I think Kolbs idea for a Mark IV might be the Laser. If they were
to go to staggered side by side seating that really can help the pod
shape as well as reduce cg shift when you go from single to dual. Mark
Beirle (SP) uses this on his Oddessy and it works great. The aft end of
the fuselage cage should be a single tube not two tubes spread apart,
but the structures guy might not agree.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
New reader,
The Kolb List Map that I made is a source for names of Kolb
builders/flyers in any given area. The address is:
http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Kolb_Map.html Just click on the names of
people in Florida to find out what city they are from and what kind of
plane they have.
John Jung
>
> If I were to go the FS-2 route I would like the Rotax 503, for the power. I
> live in Jax,Fl >and do not know anyone building or flying these type aircraft.
> If there is someone near >Jax, I would like to hear from you. I would like to
> see these aircraft upclose and >personal. I'm willing to help with some of the
> building chores, just to see how this is >done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Richard's mods, other ideas |
Really appreciate your input, it is good to have technical input to
help focus my aim. My intention for the next phase of drag reduction is one
of the options you mentioned, which is an airfoiled slat at the wide spot of
the fuselage.
Two weeks ago I tufted the fuselage of the MKIII and had my wife
film several low passes. There were 16 pieces of yarn in 4 rows down the
side of the fuselage. The first row was just behind the cockpit opening, the
last about 2" in front of the rear of the cage. The other two spaced evenly
between. Reviewed the results on a freeze frame VCR.
The first row back from the cockpit opening was wildly flapping, the
next fairly in trail, the last two flapping on their last half, and pointing
away from the fuselage.
My plan for a "fix" is a small "wing" that sits out from the
fuselage about an inch or so, and starts at the lift strut attach point, and
runs upward, and then attaches just above the fuselage side to the fuselage
structural tube that runs from the landing gear up to the spar carrythrough.
I thought to make it from 1/2" tubing, and rivit flat sheet to it to make a
little streamlined wing/slat/flap to pull the airflow around the corner and
send it down the side of the fuselage.
It would be possible to simply and sturdily attach it this way, and
could be easily removed/changed for optimization.
Critique: tell me if this has promise, and what would make it
better/worse.
Suggestions for size of the slat? Chord? Thickness? Distance from
the fuselage? (1/2 the chord width of the slat, if I read you right?)
If it is airfoiled, should the airfoil be symmetrical, or high side
in, or high side out?
If you don't mind to take a look at the side view of my MKIII with
it's cut down windshield at http://members.aol.com/WillU/index2.html and
visualize the airflow in the cockpit, there is a lot of light random airflow
overall, but there is a noticable flow that comes down between my wife and I
over our inside shoulders between us. It seems to be about a 10-12 knot
flow, and I suspect that it eventually turns and goes out the cutaway of the
side doors. It is not obnoxious, but it does indicate reverse flow.
The airflow that comes over the top of the windshield is high speed
for only about 7"-9" thick against the bottom of the wing, above our heads.
Would we reduce drag by changing the area where the tonneau cover is now and
making that a turtle deck that comes up to a high point behind our heads, or
would we do as well with another slat/airflow director mounted horizontally
to the tubes that tie into the front carrythrough, or is it probably not
worth fooling with in this area?
Would it be worthwhile to streamline all the struts of the upper
fuselage where they penetrate the high speed air that is coming over the
windshield? Would it help to redo the flap handle/stops/mechanism since it
is in that high speed airflow?
Lay it on me, you have found a 52 year old student.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>I am an aerospace geek and can tell you a little about drag. As far as
>the Mark III pod goes there are several things that make it draggy. It
>is abit short and fat, tailcones should taper at a bit better then 3 to
>1 for least drag. The tail end needs to be sharp. On my FS II the tail
>end is 6 inches across, not sure but I think the Mark III is the same.
>Laminar flow is best, turbulent flow increases drag around 30%,
>separated flow another 50% or more. The Mark III is separated flow
>behind the wind screen, and turbulent or separated everywhere else but
>maybe the first foot or two of the nose. I dont think your going to get
>much laminar flow out of this shape. The Pod to wing junction is not so
>good either. There are two ways to get a good fuselage to wing
>junction. One is to minimize the joint by cutting down either the
>fuslage or the wing to a minimum area at the joint, and the other is to
>maximize it with fairings. The Mark III seems to be best suited to the
>former. To reduce drag I would shorten the fairing as much as you could
>stand and then bring it DOWN away from the wing in a smooth shape to the
>top of the covering in the rear and in from the sides, both at as close
>to a 3 to 1 angle from the cruise airflow as you can get. The idea is
>to get the wing as isolated from the pod as possible, while closing the
>pod in a smooth shape. see the streak shadow ultralight to see what I
>mean. going from a forward facing cone to a rear facing cone or even to
>a cylinder shape puts such a step in the planform shape that it will be
>very difficult to keep the flow attached. If you can put a foot long
>smooth transition between the front and the rear it would help keep the
>flow atttched. Otherwise to eliminate separated flow vortex generators
>can be placed at about the maximum width of the pod. There are tons of
>guidelines as to what size vortex generators to use and how to place
>them. Another option is a slat, a small airfoil placed at the maximum
>width about a half chord length away from the surface that is used to
>deflect the flow around the corner and keep it attached to the surface.
>Either of these are real ugly in my opinion. I would try to put a
>fairing to smoothly close the end of the cage but you dont have much
>prop clearance. You could use the fairings on the aileron pushpull
>tubes as slats to curve the flow around the back of the cage but I am
>not sure if you would put undo stress on the tubes. If you want to
>really reduce the drag you need to skinny up your cage (why I am
>building a FS II.) I have some ideas for what the Mark IV should be,
>but I think Kolbs idea for a Mark IV might be the Laser. If they were
>to go to staggered side by side seating that really can help the pod
>shape as well as reduce cg shift when you go from single to dual. Mark
>Beirle (SP) uses this on his Oddessy and it works great. The aft end of
>the fuselage cage should be a single tube not two tubes spread apart,
>but the structures guy might not agree.
>
>Topher
>-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
Will U
I will not be flying Wed. as new egt gauge is defective.
Suggestions to others:
1: Make instrument panel detachable
2: Put plugs on instrument cables, so whole panel is removable!
It's tough getting a 225 # body inside the nosecone of a Firestar II...
Bob- #$%&*^-defective etg Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
There was antenna talk earlier that got me thinking. I know, I know,
it's a new experience!
Talked to an Avionics shop today about moving my com antenna from the
tail-boom, to just below and behind rudder peddals. The antenna would
point down and back between the wheels.
They said I'd get better reception and as long as I didn't cut the
antenna, there would be no problem cutting the coax. No tuning would be
necessary.
I'd probably get worse reception on the ground, but less noise while
flying, as I'd be going to 4 feet of coax instead of 14.
Bob Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 26 Jun 1998 02:36:09 UT
(Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA22641;
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel springs, suggested improvement. |
They call them Screen Door Springs ----
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Tailwheel springs, suggested improvement.
Date: 6/24/98 6:15 AM
Cliff (and interested others);
To eliminate the loss of tailwheel springs, I suggest the following. Order
or buy from the hardware store if you can find them, COMPRESSION springs
instead of the kit-supplied tension springs. Compression springs look like
engine valve springs, and require a couple pcs of heavy wire formed thru them
so the chains can be hooked up. In use, the wire pcs compress the spring
inward instead of extending it outward. There is almost no way you could lose
one, unless chain or something broke. The trick is finding the correct
spring. I ordered a "tailwheel spring kit" from Aircraft spruce, which
included more chain, springs, and the wire forms. The springs were WAY too
heavy, but I found some others and came up with the right combination.
Works great, although it is 1/4 pound heavier than stock (significant at
the extreme tail-end!).
If you don't understand my description, go to the airport and look at
tailwheels. You will find compression springs. Then you'll remember where
you've seen them before: some screen door limiter chains.
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: kolb antenna |
I had mine in that position and used the metal floor for the ground plane. It
would drag on the ground while taxiing so I had to put a bend in it. I
eventually removed it because I could never get rid of engine interference and
gave up on VHF. I just fly low and shout now!
FRC StLouis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGrooms511(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Grounded and needing help |
I'LL SECOND THAT MOTION
I WOULD CAUTION ANY AND ALL AGAINST ASKING FOR, OR TAKING ANY ADVICE J BIRD
MIGHT GIVE YOU.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Christensen" <spectruminternational(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Richard's mods, other ideas |
To Jim Gerken:
I built my M3 with the area behind the cockpit TOTALLY enclosed, just as you
discussed in your message. If you send an address, I'll be happy to send a
pix to you. My M3 has not yet been flown, but the aerodynamic advantage
seems obvious. As a minimum, in my opinion, it looks better.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
-----Original Message-----
From: GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM <GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM>
Date: Wednesday, June 24, 1998 11:58 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Richard's mods, other ideas
> Does anyone know of a MKiii that has been built/mod'd to enclose the area
>above the fuel tanks, as the area below them is done? In other words, has
>anyone enclosed the area behind the pilots head, eliminating the rear view,
>but providing a more streamlined closure to the back of the cabin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Christensen" <spectruminternational(at)email.msn.com> |
Your approach would work - - but as I understand the input from John Hauck,
an easier approach (which I never thought of - - duh) is to simply make sure
the axles are in alignment with each other by tying them together with a
heavy angle iron bar.
Ron Christensen
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L Doebler <bobdoebler(at)juno.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 2:21 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb gear
>Ron Christesen
>
>How about measuring the width of your main gear. Take half of that, make
>a 90 degree to the tailwheel ( it better be 90 degrees, or the cage isn't
>straight). This should be your center line -reference line.
>
>Bob Doebler
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Ron Christensen" : Re: |
Kolb gear
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
From: "Ron Christensen" <spectruminternational(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb gear
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 21:39:20 -0700
Your approach would work - - but as I understand the input from John
Hauck,
an easier approach (which I never thought of - - duh) is to simply make
sure
the axles are in alignment with each other by tying them together with a
heavy angle iron bar.
Ron Christensen
To Ron :
Been there, done that...... didn't work for me. If it works for you
great, thats what counts... have fun flying...and landing straight
Bob D
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L Doebler <bobdoebler(at)juno.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 23, 1998 2:21 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb gear
>Ron Christesen
>
>How about measuring the width of your main gear. Take half of that,
make
>a 90 degree to the tailwheel ( it better be 90 degrees, or the cage
isn't
>straight). This should be your center line -reference line.
>
>Bob Doebler
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>-
>
--------- End forwarded message ----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Richard's mods, other ideas |
Richard the drag destroyer...
Weather you can make a slat that has less drag then you eliminate by
maintaining attached flow is hard to say. Very generally speaking you
would want a highly cambered airfoil bending the flow around the corner,
so high side out curved side in. not much angle of attack is needed on
highly camberd airfoils. OR I supose you could use a less cambered
airfoil and crank it at more of an angle but then you might just
separate the flow on the slat. In a big aerospace company they would
spend months of calculations and then months more wind tunnel testing to
get something like this to work. Boeing is trying to sell a miny
version of the 737 as a business jet (maybe we are paying executives in
this country too much money!) and the designers thought that putting
winglets on it would make it look more marketable. the drag experts
calculated that they would only gain 1% so they said why bother. well
recent tests on the plane show that they gained 5%! so dont go trying
to predict drag.
I probably cant give you GOOD advice on sizing the slat... and I really
dont think it will work...but see above though. The engineering aproach
would be to caculate the drag on the fuselage both with separated and
turbulent (attached) flow, factoring in a increased propeller
effectiveness for the attached flow, and compare that to the drag you
calculate with the slat. you would size the slat to keep the drag below
the improvement so you would at least break even, and would make it big
enough to generate the energy needed to reattach the flow. I wont be
able to begin to describe how to caculate the energy needed to reattach
a boundary layer. A WAG at it would be (WAG=wild Ass guess, where most
real good engineering comes from) use the half inch tube as the leading
edge and fair it into a nice cambered airfoil about 3 inches long. put
it 2 inches out to make sure it can grab air outside the boundary layer.
or stick your finger or a Hall wind speed meter out the side just behind
the rear edge of the door and see what distance out is required to get
some good speed air. put it as close as you can. Re run your tuft
tests and move the thing around until you get all the tufts lying down
flat. At best I would guess youll gain 2 mph cause your just dealing
with the sides and the top is probably the worst part of it.
To deal with the top the turtle deck is a great start, just make sure
that you have enough room below the wing to keep good flow going through
there. Your biggest gain is probably going to come from getting flow
under the wing into the prop. Connect the turtle deck to the wind
screen with a nice smooth fairing and your in real good shape, except
the gas fumes. heat forming lexan is suppose to be fairly easy so you
might want to quit messing around with flat pieces and put a bubble
canopy on the thing!
Really the best thing to do is go and fly and if you love doing these
mods for the fun of it have at it. You are not going to gaing more then
a few miles per hour so it has no practical application but it is great
fun to do and you are learning more about aero then I did in school. My
mentor at General dynamics always used to say about calculated and wind
tunnel results, will see in flight test! and we did too!
Topher (not a drag weeny, an aerodynamic stability and control weeny)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 26 Jun 1998 06:45:09 UT
(Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA24402;
| Subject: | Re: kolb antenna |
Before you pick the spot, try to make an model out of say a coat
hangar or solid copper electrical wire.
Position it where you think it would be (keep the angle correct to
mounting.
Now go pick up the tail and see if it drags on the ground where it
would catch if you were moving the plane backwards.
If your antenna is rigid, you might have a problem.
We found this to be a little problem on our FireFly. We put a
bulkhead connector on the floor pan. (Not much place to put anything
on the FireFly) We then have an home made antenna mounted on a
standard cable BNC connector. A piece of stainless wire (model shop)
and bent at a about 45 degrees about 3-4 inches from the connector.
It has to be the correct length and I don't have that here now. Seems
to works well but we have to be careful when we lift the tail as the
antenna can drag and catch on the ground. With the BNC, it swivels
around so acts like a curb feeler.
Jerry
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: kolb antenna
Date: 6/25/98 6:52 PM
There was antenna talk earlier that got me thinking. I know, I know,
it's a new experience!
Talked to an Avionics shop today about moving my com antenna from the
tail-boom, to just below and behind rudder peddals. The antenna would
point down and back between the wheels.
They said I'd get better reception and as long as I didn't cut the
antenna, there would be no problem cutting the coax. No tuning would be
necessary.
I'd probably get worse reception on the ground, but less noise while
flying, as I'd be going to 4 feet of coax instead of 14.
Bob Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Detachable instrument panels |
Robert L Doebler wrote:
snip...
> Suggestions to others:
>
> 1: Make instrument panel detachable
>
> 2: Put plugs on instrument cables, so whole panel is removable!
>
> It's tough getting a 225 # body inside the nosecone of a Firestar II...
>
> Bob- #$%&*^-defective etg Doebler
>
Bob,
I've been there and done that. Both my Firestars now have detachable
instrument panels. I have the Kolb instrument panel in my Firestar II
and I modified it by adding studs to the panel so that I would only had
to use 4 wing nuts inside the nose cone. I also relocated the wire
harness to the bottom to get it free of the nose cone for removal. I
will post pictures in the future. My original Firestar has a new
removeable instrument panel. A picture of it is at:
http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Instruments.html The 6 screws go into
standoffs so that it is removable from the front. This is a big help on
an original Firestar because the windscreen is not easily removable
(riveted). The standoffs were made by drilling and tapping 3/8" bolts.
Then a pair of nuts on each bolt sandwich the original panel to allow
height adjustment.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 13 hrs
Original Firestar (going to Kansas City on Sunday)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM |
| Subject: | Drag reduction continues... |
Topher, and others still awake to the drag subject;
I read with interest your note of two days ago concerning the 3:1 taper
desired in the tailcone. I sat in the shop last night looking at the MKiii
carefully and re-read your note. There is NO WAY to get 3:1 taper. In
fact, it would be close to 1:1, if enclosed around the existing cage.
Take your best WAG (I like that, I'm going to start using it today!):
You know how the Pod is now, it ends flat behind the pilots head. The best
taper is about 3:1, but we can't get anywhere close. To enclose this area
with fabric would be fairly easy to do. Will it offer any improvement in
drag reduction or better flow to the prop if less than the 3:1 desired taper?
Would a 1:1 taper flow noticably better than a blunt T.E., for drag and prop?
I've received several notes from guys who have enclosed the rear pod, and
I THANK YOU ALL for your input.
As pointed out more than once, there are other reasons the rear pod could
be "better" if enclosed. Some think it looks better (I agree). It would
initially possibly be louder in the cabin from engine noise, but could be
treated for reduction. One compromise would be to fabric cover the diagonal
braces that run downward front to back in this area. This would give some
rear taper to the pod and offer the best opportunity to sound-reduce the
cabin because: the new fabric would be a third layer between pilot and
noise sources (gap seal and square fabric pc on top of cage are other two),
you would be enclosing the back which I know from the flexible window it helps,
and you would be creating a small chamber which could be foam-treated.
However, if Topher feels that 1:1 equals blunt T.E., there is an easier way
to get the sound treatment, that is put it on the underside of the gap seal
or top side of the square fabric pc. I will be trying some of this soon.
Thanks again,
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel springs, suggested improvement. |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
On Thu, 25 Jun 98 14:52:56 cst jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com writes:
> They call them Screen Door Springs ----
>
I dunno, here in the great mid-west, a screen door spring is a tightly
wound tension spring about 18-24" long. I think what was refered to
earlier is the spring used on a 'storm door' with a hydraulic closer. It
only kicks-in when the Oklahoma wind rips the door from your hand and
over-powers the closer.
Another place to scrounge for these type springs is a boat shop. My old
fishing boat has them on the transom tie-downs on the trailer but they
look a little heavy (WAG1). The ones that look about right (WAG2) are on
the steering cables (yes, it's a very old boat). They keep the cables
under tension while the motor pivots from steering wheel inputs.
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
Doubt if I can interest anyone at this late date but just as a reminder,
the Cedar Mills fly-in @ lake Texoma starts today and runs thru Sunday.
Looking forward to seeing Jim Baker, Cliff Stripling, John Hauk and any
others who can make it!
-Mick (gotta go pre-flight the Chevy) Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel springs, suggested improvement. |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
Forgot to mention it but instead of a steel spring, I use a loop of 3/16"
bungie and some parachute cord on the Flyer. Laugh if want but it works
well and is much lighter than chains and springs! The plans call for just
a tail skid so I wanted to keep things as light as possible waaay back
there. The bungie does get weak and has to be replaced every couple
years.
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag reduction continues... |
Jim and all,
At some points where possible I did try to take any advantage of reduced
drag. I got rid of the jury strut by lining the lift strut and I put a Lexan
and aluminum tain cone (probably very little drag difference) behind the
squared off area behind the cage in front of the prop. That was mostly
because of "looks". I put gap seals between all hinges on all flying
surfaces. I built smooth trailing edges without any bumps (I doubt that
makes any difference). I installed a soft pack ballistic chute inside the
wing gap seal. I installed the oil tank (non-Rotax kind) in front of the
engine instead of on the side. I lowered the last false rib to better
transition to the wing tip and shortened the wingtips by 4". I doubt that
would be considered a true "clipping" since it is beyond the last main
rib... just a modified wing tip.
I covered my MKIII mostly with an eye just for how I wanted it to look
rather than much else. I covered the area behind the pilot and passengers
seat up to the shoulder cross bar. I covered the area from the top of the
tanks back with doors that open from the sides and hinge in the center
(copied from a friend). That effectively closes off the lower aft part of
the fuselage. It probably did nothing for drag, but did allow me a place to
store soft light stuff behind the tanks.
I have a feeling (kind of a WAG feeling since I received all my engineering
training building balsa models as a kid and flying my hand out of the window
in the "wind tunnel" created by the the family auto speeding down the road
and flying in my dreams) that what Richard did (aside from a bubble canopy
and turtle deck as suggested) with cutting the center canopy lower will do
more to reduce drag and increase lift across the center section of the wing
than anything else a person could do. Lots of other good things should
happen too... better engine cooling and most likely better prop efficiency.
I hope to copy it with a somewhat different shaped rear edge at some point.
Right now I have no good place to work. My hanger is a dirt pit and it is
tooooo durn hot.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (47.8 hrs)
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "william f. davis" <custom_search(at)compuserve.com> |
Hello Everyone--I just learned form Jime Gerkin (thanks for your advise
Jim) that the 582 engine and 618 from ROTAX have been disontinued and are=
replaced by a 600cc twin engine of some type. Does anyone have any
additonal data on this new engine?
thanks
Bill
Pittsbugh
Mark III builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM |
Subject:Bad advice from Jime Gerkin
Bill wrote:
>New Rotax engine
>
>Hello Everyone--I just learned form Jime Gerkin (thanks for your advise
>Jim) that the 582 engine and 618 from ROTAX have been disontinued and are
>replaced by a 600cc twin engine of some type. Does anyone have any
>additonal data on this new engine?
>
>thanks
Bill, if I (Jim Gerken) am the person who mislead you, I am sorry.
What I meant to say in answer to someone's post about which engine to buy, the
618 or the 582, was this:
Both these engines have origins in the SkiDoo snowmobiles. This year SkiDoo
came out with a new engine, the 600, that apparently will replace the 58x-class
engine IN SNOWMOBILES. I hope they will also find their way to the Aircraft
engine business, but of course I do not know if/when they might. For now
we have the 582 or 618, either work great on the MKiii. I would like to see
the 600-type engine available, because it is a cylinder-reed, liquid cooled
twin with RAVE and no Rotary valve. It should represent the state-of-art
in reed-equipped 2-strokes and would be a bit simpler mechanically than the
rotary valve engines. It would also be lighter.
Again,
sorry for the confusion, there is no 600 presently available for aircraft.
signed, Jim (wish that other guy would stop using my name) Gerken
P.S. Shoot, I forgot to use WAG somehow! Sorry Mick, I can't be as
entertaining as you. I bet you're fun at parties.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Cd of various shapes |
my last WAG on drag...
Thrust available from cooling a 60 horse engine is going to be real
small!!!! Again your potential gain is very small and your adding
weight and complexity. Probably not the best trade there.
here are the numbers for various shapes
three-dimensional shapes (bodies of revolution)
shape length/width Cd
flate plate 0 1.28 a disk
square 1 1.0 to 1.2 a cube
sphere 1 1.5 a ball
streamlined body 1 0.07 a torpedo shape
1.5 0.032
2 0.03 best
3 0.033
4 0.041
5 0.050
6 0.06
7 0.068
8 0.078
Two-dimensional shapes (cross sections)
flat plate 0 1.98
square 1 2.0
rectangle 0.5 2.2
rectangle 2 1.4
circle 1 0.27
oval 0.5 0.5
2 0.13
ellipse 1 0.35
1.5 0.12
2 0.06
3 0.04 since the back edge isnt sharp
4 0.04 these might be better for
5 0.04 estimating Kolb pods but they
6 0.045 are 2-dimensional
7 0.048
8 0.062
The tail cone number for best drag was for one sides slope (= length
over width/2) of the tail cone only. The streamlined body length over
width of 2 has a tail cone slope of 3 so that is the same. L=2,
Ltailcone =~1.5, W=1, W/2=.5 Ltailcone/(W/2)=~1.5/.5= ~3. I cant find
the list of tail cone data which would give the exact number.
topher
________________________________________________________________________________
(Netscape Mail Server v2.01) with SMTP id AAA104;
| From: | LLMoore(at)tapnet.net (Lauren L. Moore) |
Many thnks to all that responded to my question about rejetting and
needle valve adjustment in my FS. I went to the field this morning and
decided to make the changes indicated. I put in a #155 in place of a
#165 main jet and brought the clip up one notch on the needle. Now I
just have to watch the EGT closely and of course look at the plugs for a
better evidence of burn improvement. So thanks again..after my first
flight with the new settings I will report to the gang what the results
are. See ya LARRY in SUSSEX Original Firestar "Cheap Thrill"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon P. Croke" <joncroke(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | More Toe-in ideas... |
Here's another technique I used to address getting the proper toe-in
setting for the mains.
Before the wheel axles are inserted into the axle fittings (and after the=
fittings are installed on the gear legs) I placed a 5/8 rod (about 4 fee=
t
long) thru both axle holes, then
simply drilled the fittings into the gear legs. This way, nothing could
move while
drilling, and no measuring of angles was required. (cause when I measure=
,
things always find a way to move or slip when I drill or cut!!!)
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
Hi all,
If anyone cares, my web page is up at the new address:
http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~rad
The old address at pen.net is still working, but I'm not sure how long that will
last. Unfortunately, I can't access the old page anymore to put a forwarding
address for the new page.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K
RV-8A, 80587 (wings)
rad(at)pcola.gulf.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Christensen" <spectruminternational(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More Toe-in ideas... |
To Jon Croke:
Wow, what an elegantly simple way to align the axles ! ! !
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
-----Original Message-----
From: Jon P. Croke <joncroke(at)compuserve.com>
Date: Saturday, June 27, 1998 8:12 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: More Toe-in ideas...
Here's another technique I used to address getting the proper toe-in
setting for the mains.
Before the wheel axles are inserted into the axle fittings (and after the
fittings are installed on the gear legs) I placed a 5/8 rod (about 4 feet
long) thru both axle holes, then
simply drilled the fittings into the gear legs. This way, nothing could
move while
drilling, and no measuring of angles was required. (cause when I measure,
things always find a way to move or slip when I drill or cut!!!)
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Cedar Mills Fly-in |
To all,
This was my first real fly-in. I just got back and wanted to report my
observations. It was on a marina grass strip up on the Oklahoma/Texas
border that is estimated 2K feet or so. I got there in the late morning and
there was little room left to park. Planes lined the runway on one side the
whole way and a few parked on the other side... I am guessing, maybe 70 or
more planes were there... all types, helios, gyros, power parachutes, UL,
Exp, and gen aviation. The event started yesterday and ends tomorrow. I am
not a join-er therefore was nor privy to what activities were planned. It
seemed there were demos going on (possibly competitition I don't know) of
bomb drops, etc. They had the announcer that ususally does it at Oshkosh
pointing out plane types, etc. A dinner is planned for tonight over at the
marina. There were quite a few folks that were camping out. The Rans
company and a power parechute company had a comercial presence there with
demo planes.
The best part is that Kolbs were very well represented. Of course, John
Hauck's "Super Kolb" was there and it was nice to visit with him again. I
quizzed him and his brother Jim as much as possible about care of engines
and just things in general. Guessing, there were perhaps 9 or 10 kolbs in
all. It was good to meet internetters Jim Baker and Mick Fine and his wife
from Oklamoma. We had a good talk. That was the best part for me. I also
ran into some fellow Kolbers in my area that I had not met in person before.
I wish I was going back up there on Sunday, but my wife has other plans.
Life is not all airplanes. Good fly-in...
Only negatives were.... I bounced, bounced, bounced my landing in front of
the whole world. There was a direct crosswind but not strong. It was about
as hot as it could be.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (47.8 hrs)
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
Scott.Pierskalla(at)HBC.honeywell.com, dwegner(at)isd.net
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Ray,
I got out today about 10:30 and planned to run out the seafoam I added
last week to the rear cylinder. I really believe this is the solution to
ring-stick problem for the aviation application of the 2-cycle engine.
Jerry (Jagerson) checked the rear cylinder of his FireStar and found the
top ring stuck. He added the seafoam and checked it after letting it sit
for a few days. You guessed it, the rings were free. Al (Reay) told me
add a capful of oil to the seafoam can to prevent any rusting in the
cylinders.
The flight today was smooth and cool. The temp at 2000 feet was 70 deg
and I was in my shorts. That felt great after sweating my guts out on the
ground.
Ahhh ..... the advantage of an open cockpit! Later, Jerry flew in but
had to takeoff for home due to the storms moving in.
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cedar Mills Fly-in |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Thanks Cliff for the update. You didn't bounce in front of the whole
world, just the ones behind the fence that were watching. The best
landings are made when nobody is around to see it.
Ralph
writes:
>Only negatives were.... I bounced, bounced, bounced my landing in
>front of the whole world. There was a direct crosswind but not strong.
It was
>about as hot as it could be.
>
>Later,
>
>--
>Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
>(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
>and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
> Kolb MKIII - N582CC (47.8 hrs)
> ____________________|_____________________
> ___(+^+)___
> (_)
> 8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
The absolute biggest drag device on a Kolb is the wing airfoil. This simple
section is simple to build but has a definite speed / drag buildup at low
speeds so the question is has anyone out there ever built a wing for a
firestar with a different airfoil? I have played with drag reduction for 4
years with mixed results. My FS2, with 503 , 2 carbs , 3 bade IVO (best prop
ever) and absolutely dead air 6000 rpm gives me 80 mph. I have no idea what a
bog stock FS2 at the same rpm and would love to hear from someone out there.
However in normal air you can still only cruise at 55 to 60 and remain
confident of living. I think the only solution to going faster is a
Challenger.
FRC StLouis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cedar Mills Fly-in |
> The best part is that Kolbs were very well represented. Of course, John
> Hauck's "Super Kolb" was there and it was nice to visit with him again. I
> quizzed him and his brother Jim as much as possible about care of engines
> and just things in general. Guessing, there were perhaps 9 or 10 kolbs in
> all. It was good to meet internetters Jim Baker and Mick Fine and his wife
> from Oklamoma. We had a good talk. That was the best part for me. I also
> ran into some fellow Kolbers in my area that I had not met in person before.
I'm going to let you all in on a secret.....Cliff's airplane is a 10.
To those of you who call yourselves airplane builders, you will be in
the presence of an aircraft craftsman when you meet Mr Stripling.
The attention to detail is excellent.
And Cliff is one fine person. Glad to have finally put the face and
name together.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | broken tail wheel rod |
The fiberglass rod of the tail wheel on my Firestar I snapped during a
cross country move in a truck. Obviously, it was not sufficiently secured,
but what's done is done.
Advice is very much needed on how to remove the fiberglass rod (glued in
with epoxy) from both the fuselage side and the tail wheel side) so new rod
can be inserted. How can the epoxied rod be safely removed to make way for
a replacement?
Please help if you have any knowledge on this matter!
Thanks!
--KW
kw93(at)wcoil.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Hi guys,
I would think to reduce the induced drag of the wing would be to lower
the angle of incidence. There is enough room on the inboard wing tab to
drill another hole to lower it. The tradeoff will be higher cruise speed
for short takeoffs/low stall speed. Before attempting such a
modification, check with Kolb Aircraft. The FS's with the high wing
incidence make forgiving short takeoff planes.
I personally would rather have this built-in safety feature than a higher
cruise speed. I like being able to put it down in short fields and be
able to get out. There have been a couple of occasions where that high
lift wing saved my butt getting out of tight places.
You guys that have Mark III's or FS II's and operate out of GA airports,
maybe this is worth considering.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
>The absolute biggest drag device on a Kolb is the wing airfoil. This
>simple section is simple to build but has a definite speed / drag
buildup at
>low speeds so the question is has anyone out there ever built a wing for
a
>firestar with a different airfoil? I have played with drag reduction
>for 4 years with mixed results. My FS2, with 503 , 2 carbs , 3 bade IVO
>(best prop ever) and absolutely dead air 6000 rpm gives me 80 mph. I
have no
>idea what a bog stock FS2 at the same rpm and would love to hear from
>someone out there. However in normal air you can still only cruise at 55
to 60 >and remain confident of living. I think the only solution to
going faster is a
>Challenger.
>FRC StLouis
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: broken tail wheel rod |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
KW,
I replaced mine once. I got mine out by heating the fabric-covered lower
fin area with a propane torch. Be careful not to heat it up too much.
Work the torch around the area without getting things too hot. Clamp the
rod with a visegrips and twist it. Use a hammer to pull it out. If you
have any rivets or pins through the rod remove them first. It will come
out easily after the epoxy softens up.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
>The fiberglass rod of the tail wheel on my Firestar I snapped during
>a cross country move in a truck. Obviously, it was not sufficiently
>secured,
>but what's done is done.
>
>Advice is very much needed on how to remove the fiberglass rod (glued
>in with epoxy) from both the fuselage side and the tail wheel side) so
>new rod can be inserted. How can the epoxied rod be safely removed to
make
>way for a replacement?
>
>Please help if you have any knowledge on this matter!
>
>Thanks!
>
>--KW
>
>kw93(at)wcoil.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
FRC,
My Firestar II has only one carb on it's 503, 3 blade IVO, streamline
struts, and goes 75 true at 6,000 rpm. When I say "true", I mean checked
with a GPS in opposite directions. (Into the wind and 180 degrees) The
best part is that I only burn 2.2 gph at 5,000 rpm.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 14.3 hrs
Original Firestar Sold
SE Wisconsin
>
>Frcole(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> The absolute biggest drag device on a Kolb is the wing airfoil. This simple
> section is simple to build but has a definite speed / drag buildup at low
> speeds so the question is has anyone out there ever built a wing for a
> firestar with a different airfoil? I have played with drag reduction for 4
> years with mixed results. My FS2, with 503 , 2 carbs , 3 bade IVO (best prop
> ever) and absolutely dead air 6000 rpm gives me 80 mph. I have no idea what
a
> bog stock FS2 at the same rpm and would love to hear from someone out there.
> However in normal air you can still only cruise at 55 to 60 and remain
> confident of living. I think the only solution to going faster is a
> Challenger.
> FRC StLouis
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: broken tail wheel rod |
KW,
I replace mine with aluminum from the factory (new style). The old
one was removed by sawing off the rod and drilling out the glued end. It
took a little time and but it was not difficult. The aluminum is much
better and it only cost about $5.
Now that you have advise from at least two of us, how about giving us
your name?
John Jung
>
>kw93(at)wcoil.com wrote:
>
> The fiberglass rod of the tail wheel on my Firestar I snapped during a
> cross country move in a truck. Obviously, it was not sufficiently secured,
> but what's done is done.
>
> Advice is very much needed on how to remove the fiberglass rod (glued in
> with epoxy) from both the fuselage side and the tail wheel side) so new rod
> can be inserted. How can the epoxied rod be safely removed to make way for
> a replacement?
>
> Please help if you have any knowledge on this matter!
>
> Thanks!
>
> --KW
>
> kw93(at)wcoil.com
>
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
FRC,
I have to add one more comment because of your mantioning
"Challenger". If you weant to go faster, get an original Firestar. They
go faster than a II with less horsepower.
What does FRC stand for? How about just the F? Fred from StLouis?
John Jung
>
>Frcole(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> The absolute biggest drag device on a Kolb is the wing airfoil. This simple
> section is simple to build but has a definite speed / drag buildup at low
> speeds so the question is has anyone out there ever built a wing for a
> firestar with a different airfoil? I have played with drag reduction for 4
> years with mixed results. My FS2, with 503 , 2 carbs , 3 bade IVO (best prop
> ever) and absolutely dead air 6000 rpm gives me 80 mph. I have no idea what
a
> bog stock FS2 at the same rpm and would love to hear from someone out there.
> However in normal air you can still only cruise at 55 to 60 and remain
> confident of living. I think the only solution to going faster is a
> Challenger.
> FRC StLouis
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Original Firestar Sold |
Group,
My original Firestar, the one that I have flown for the last 3 years,
and the one that took me to 17,000 ASL, is sold. Last night I flew it
for the last time. This morning, I watched it leave my driveway, on it's
trailer, going to Kasnsas City. Adam Violet is the new owner. But all is
not sad. My Firestar II now sits in the hanger, ready to fly, at a (few)
monents notice.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb greetings |
>Date: Sun, 28 Jun 1998 06:34:58 -0700
>To: kw93(at)wcoil.com
>From: rrice(at)wcoil.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb greetings
>In-Reply-To: <199806280929.FAA08809(at)smtp.wcoil.com>
>
>>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>>Phil
I know you are out there some where,I tried to respond ..private..but
I keep getting note back,Please try again or check phone book under 647-....
thanks
dave (want to talk with you)plane guy
>>
>>Saw your wcoil.com email address on the Kolb list.
>>
>>Do you own a Kolb, building one, just interested in Kolbs?
>>
>>I have had a "Firestar 1" several years. I now live near Lima; new
resident.
>>
>>How about you?
>>
>>Best regards,
>>Phil
>>kw93(at)wcoil.net
>>
>> Phil
> You must have figured that I was near Lima because I had a wcoil
address. Was wondering ,but figured it out as I type.lol Any way no my
plane is a Quicksilver GT- 400.In fact was checking mail before leaving to
fly right now.Would be glad to chat with you ,and have you come on out
,would you like to send your phone number ?
> Thanks for the mail
> Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks for the reply, if I had it to do again I would only use 1 carb but
hindsight is cheap. I have a flow meter out of my old GA plane and I indicate
2.6 GPH at 5200 rpm. The one thing I have learned is that you should keep it
simple and light and not waste your time modifying the thing, of course though
as a frustrated engineer I have this idea for a stiffer ailerons, new tail ..
move the gear fwd, bigger engine and on and on and on
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGrooms511(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rorax 618; C Box |
Fellow Kolbers;
I have a Rotax 618 with a C box with a clutch.They have about 50 hours total
time.
A couple of questions about the C box and clutch;
1. Is the clutch a standard part of the C box or is it a special added option?
2. After a recent 4 hour flight, I noticed a small amount of brown powder (like
brake disk, or clutch powder) at the vent holes of the clutch. From what I could
see through the clutch vent holes, it also appeared like the steel flywheel
that the clutch rubs against had gotten very hot. it was slightly discolored.
Is this normal?
3. What is the normal expected service life of one of these clutches, and are they
usually fairly trouble free?
I have not noticed any slippage, nor any especially high RPM readings, but if the
above symptoms are saying trouble is brewing, of course I will take immediate
action.
Thank you fellers for your input.
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adam Violett <asviolet(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | New FireStar Owner |
To the group & John Jung
I am the proud new owner of an original Firestar. A buitiful plane I am
so looking forward to flying!! The 600 mile trip home went without
incident.
Adam Violett Original Firestar (owned but not flown ... yet)
Spring Hill, KS
asviolet(at)swbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>
>.... I think the only solution to going faster is a
>Challenger.
>FRC StLouis
For shame! You should wash-out your keyboard with Sea-foam!
-Mick
Challenger II still for sale, asking price down to $6500, must sell, see
at:
http://members.tripod.com/C2/C2.html
-Sorry for the Commercial...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | seafoam treatment again |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Hi Vince,
Since using the seafoam, it appears to be getting rid of the carbon in
the top end of the engine and around the rings. When new rings are
installed in a 2-cycle engine, you will hear a distinct sound coming from
the engine that indicates the rings are loose against the cylinder walls.
As the engine aquires time on it, that sound slowly disappears. After
giving it the seafoam treatment, the sound of the "loose rings"
re-appears. When a friend of mine found a stuck ring in his 447 Rotax,
the usual procedure was to take it apart and decarbonize, clean or
replace the ring/s. Instead, he put in the seafoam, let it sit for a few
days, started it up and ran out the carbon. After taking it for a flight,
he took off the exhaust manifold and checked for stuck rings. The seafoam
had done its thing in "unsticking" the rings. That in itself was a
testimony that it works. I will use this stuff from now on. I have
seafoam in my engine (treatment #2), at this moment, working for next
weekend. No, I'm not connected with the manufacturer of seafoam nor do I
get any royalties from anyone. I'm simply interested in passing this info
on to you guys to aid our beloved sport in keeping us safe. That engine
is the heartbeat of your fun. From all the years that I've been around
this sport, this "ring stick" problem has always bothered me. I've been
searching for a solution to the "ring stick" problem. Thanks to my buddy,
Al Reay, I believe he's found it!
A few weeks ago I posted a message about seafoam. For your benefit I will
post it again:
Seafoam is a gasoline additive made for all types of engines to remove
carbon buildup. It has been around since the '40's and I learned about it
recently. I poured a couple of capfuls (actually 4) into my Rotax 377
sparkplug hole and it belched out white smoke for 10 minutes during
warmup. If it's getting rid of the carbon like it says, I'll be pleased.
It says you can add it directly to your gas tank, but this stuff is
potent and I don't care to experiment with it eating the pump diaphragm
or anything else. For those of you who have met Al Reay (he flew in the
pretty yellow Titan from MN to Sun-N-Fun this year). He's the guy that
told me about seafoam. He used it extensively in his Rotax's on his
recommend something he didn't use himself.
Seafoam procedure:
1) Take out one spark plug and bring that piston to TDC.
2) Add 2-4 capfuls in that cylinder.
3) Raise the tail of the plane (for a few sec) to get the seafoam
running forward
4) Let it sit for a few days (a week if possible)
5) Put a used plug in the treated cylinder.
6) Start it up and run at about 4000 rpm once it's warmed up.
7) When it quits blowing white smoke out the exhaust, it's ready.
8) Put a new plug in the treated cylinder.
9) Repeat steps 1-8 for the other cylinder.
Please Note: The seafoam may foul the plugs. Use some old plugs during
the treatment then put in new ones after the treatment. I have tested it
for the above method. The instructions say that you can add it to your
gas tank, but I would NOT do it because you do not know what it will eat
up. Keep it in the cylinders only.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
writes:
>Ralph,
>
>I would be interested in hearing a little more about "seafoam". I am
>unfamiliar with this product. Other questions are: How did you know
>you needed to use the seafoam? What model engine are you using?
>
> am relatively new to the Kolb BB list. If this has been discussed,
>sorry to have missed it. I have a Firestar II running Rotax 503 with
about
>160 hours. While I have pulled the exhaust manifold several times, I
have
>never seen a reason to take the top off the engine. Any comments about
>carbon buildup, routine maintenance and oil selection would be
interesting.
>I have limited experience with 2-cycle engines, but I definitely do not
want
>to hear the big silence at any point off the ground.
>
>Thanks
>Vince Nicely
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rorax 618; C Box |
<< Fellow Kolbers;
I have a Rotax 618 with a C box with a clutch.They have about 50 hours
total time.
A couple of questions about the C box and clutch;
1. Is the clutch a standard part of the C box or is it a special added
option?
2. After a recent 4 hour flight, I noticed a small amount of brown powder
(like brake disk, or clutch powder) at the vent holes of the clutch. From what
I could see through the clutch vent holes, it also appeared like the steel
flywheel that the clutch rubs against had gotten very hot. it was slightly
discolored. Is this normal? >>
Walt:
I flew my Mark III for 120 hours with 582, 'C' box and a clutch. To answer
your questions:
1. The RK clutch is an option (non Rotax). It adds about 7 lbs to the
engine/gearbox weight.
2. A small amount of the "clutch powder" is normal. One item to watch
very carefully, though, is how the clutch is working at idle. Your idle rpm
must be low enough to allow the clutch to disengage completely! If your prop
is turning very slopwly at idle, the clutch pads are making contact with the
flywheel drum but the centrifical force is not great enough to fully engage
the pads. The pads will slip inside the drum and get hot enough to discolor
the drum and soften the adhesive that attaches the pads to their steel base.
The pads then distort and will never allow the clutch to completely disengage.
This condition will wear out the clutch pads in about 30 hours (voice of
experience here) with repair costing over $140.00. After my learning curve on
clutches caught up experience, I made sure the idle was low enough and now
after an additional 90 hours the clutch pads show little wear.
Pete Krotje
EAA Tech Con. & former Marl III owner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RSCRacing(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Oil Injection Adjustment |
Hi group,
Someone wrote that to adjust the oil injection, to line up the marks at 3000
rpm.
I knew this was not how i did mine so I looked back threw my info and found
that the Rotax Operators manual and service info manual said to pull throttle
lever to idle positon and line up marks. My firestar 2 idles around 2000 rpm.
I also
looked in the C.P.S catalog and seen where it says to line the marks up at
3000rpm. Im a little unsure if i should change it per the cps book or just
leave it
per Rotax procedure which i will probably do. Any clarification from the group
would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob
Akron Ohio
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>The absolute biggest drag device on a Kolb is the wing airfoil.
I think the only solution to going faster is a Challenger.
>FRC StLouis
Never layed the two airfoils side by side or one rib atop the other,
but near as I can eyeball, the Challenger has the same airfoil as a Kolb.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cedar Mills Fly-in |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>
>I'm going to let you all in on a secret.....Cliff's airplane is a 10.
>To those of you who call yourselves airplane builders, you will be in
>the presence of an aircraft craftsman when you meet Mr Stripling. ....
>
>J. Baker
I'll second Jim's rating of Cliff's Mk.3 but add that Jim's FS2 is just
as flawless. I burned-up a 12 exposure roll of film mostly on Cliff's
plane and some of the nice details he's added. With Cliff's permission,
I'll post some of them on my webpage as soon as they're processed and
scanned. When I went to get a few of Jim's plane, I was out of film (I
thought I had a roll of 24 in the Minolta ...sorry Jim).
As for the fly-in, it was great - HOT, but great! Cliff is a good
estimator too, the un-official 'official' count was about 100 total
aircraft, 79 of which were ultralight/lightplanes. I'm sure Sam Cox will
give a run-down on the Fly-ul list in a day or two. Met a lot of great
folks and saw some old friends. Aside from the blast-furnace heat and a
constant crosswind (Cliff, I didn't see any 'greasers' all weekend!),
almost everyone had a good time. The only exception might have been the
'parasailer' that confused the bomb-drop and spot-landing events but
that's another story.
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Off the wall question...... |
I recently had a friend who died in gyro accident. He was heavily
involved with building, and had just completed, a set of fiberglass
molds for horizontal tailplanes and the molds for a complete
enclosure for a two place gyro design (looks sort of like a mini Bell
Jet Ranger).
The question is this....does anyone know a professional fiberglass
mold maker who might be able to put a price on these items? He had
spent many hours over the course of several months creating these
items and the gentleman's wife would like to ask a fair price for
them but is unsure of exactly how to value them. These items will
make someone a fair amount of money (as an example, the completed
horizontal tail was bringing appx $700 for each completed
unit....about a 4-5 hour job each). As you can see, there is more
than just the cost-of-labor to make the mold involved.
Any help would be appreciated.
Jim Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>
> Never layed the two airfoils side by side or one rib atop the
>other,
>but near as I can eyeball, the Challenger has the same airfoil as a
>Kolb.
> Richard Pike
It's hard to 'eye-ball' an airfoil but the wings of my C2 and my Twinstar
do look very similar. I do have much more confidence in the structure of
the Kolb wing however.
I don't see a huge difference in performance numbers between a similar
Kolb and a Challenger either but maybe I missed something.
What small difference there may be is probably (WAG) due to much less
4130 steel (nearly none) in the cockpit area of the Challenger. Steel
will absorb much more energy in an impact than aluminum, might be worth
it's weight in insurance forms -IMHO.
Another consideration, the main fuselage tubes of the Challenger are two
large (2.5" dia. ?), long (20 feet?) aluminum tubes with at least 3 large
radius bends each. If you're 'lucky' enough to survive bending them,
you'll have to go back to the factory for replacements or pay a tube shop
a small fortune to duplicate them. A Kolb has no curved tubes (that I can
think of..) in the primary structure and 4130 is pretty easy to come by
in the event of a repair.
Now after that ringing endorsement, if anyone wants to buy a good used
C2, I made a mistake on the URL, here's the correct one (I hope):
http://members.tripod.com/froghair/C2/C2.html
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HKWingert(at)aol.com |
Hi Folks,
I have just purchased a Kolb Twinstar Mark III from Doug Prange of Lincoln,
Nebraska.
I would like to know how to get on any Kolb message boards or chat rooms.
Thanks much,
Harry Wingert
810 Donegal Dr.
Papillion, NE 68046
hkwingert(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Kolb Owner |
>Hi Folks,
>
>I have just purchased a Kolb Twinstar Mark III from Doug Prange of Lincoln,
>Nebraska.
>I would like to know how to get on any Kolb message boards or chat rooms.
>
>Thanks much,
>
>Harry Wingert
>810 Donegal Dr.
>Papillion, NE 68046
>hkwingert(at)aol.com
>-
This is as good as it gets...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rutledge fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Kolb Owner |
Actually, I am in the process of setting up a (900) number. Call me and
we can chat. : )
----Original Message Follows----
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 14:00:59 -0400
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: New Kolb Owner
>Hi Folks,
>
>I have just purchased a Kolb Twinstar Mark III from Doug Prange of
Lincoln,
>Nebraska.
>I would like to know how to get on any Kolb message boards or chat
rooms.
>
>Thanks much,
>
>Harry Wingert
>810 Donegal Dr.
>Papillion, NE 68046
>hkwingert(at)aol.com
>-
This is as good as it gets...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Kolb Owner |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> >Hi Folks,
> >
> >I have just purchased a Kolb Twinstar Mark III from Doug Prange of Lincoln,
> >Nebraska.
> >I would like to know how to get on any Kolb message boards or chat rooms.
> >
> >Thanks much,
> >
> >Harry Wingert
> >810 Donegal Dr.
> >Papillion, NE 68046
> >hkwingert(at)aol.com
> >-
> This is as good as it gets...
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
Harry,
I was going to say "This is it!", but Richard beat me to it. Is your
new plane complete? If so, have you flown it yet?
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wsconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JD Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
| Subject: | RE: New Kolb Owner |
Congrats, Harry. Be sure and bring that nice looking plane up to our fly-in
on July 18th in Norfolk. We had the MK III listed on our web site in the
classifieds, so I guess I'll delete it out of there. Stop by our web site
for a visit.
J.D. Stewart
NCF Communications, Inc. http://www.ncfcomm.com
Northeast Nebraska Flying Club
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc/index.html
> >
> > >Hi Folks,
> > >
> > >I have just purchased a Kolb Twinstar Mark III from Doug
> Prange of Lincoln,
> > >Nebraska.
> > >I would like to know how to get on any Kolb message boards or
> chat rooms.
> > >
> > >Thanks much,
> > >
> > >Harry Wingert
> > >810 Donegal Dr.
> > >Papillion, NE 68046
> > >hkwingert(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
My only comparison is a clipped Challenger 1 in my club. He says that he can
cruise at 85 but usually stays at 75 for comfort. The one thing I do know is
that he is always on the ground when we leave for a x country and is always
waiting for us at the other end. I have the invitation to fly it when the
gods are good and we are both at the field together so I will post an update.
I did witness him getting upset by wind while turning base and hitting wing
low 30 deg sideways. It bent one LE tube, wiped all 3 gears off and bent the
fus slightly. Repair was not astronomical but I guess that depends on your
income.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Hodes <hodesrus(at)cwnet.com> |
I am planning to build an airplane and I have pretty much narrowed the
choices down to a Kolb. I am going to Oshkosh in July so that I can
decide which of the kits to order. I have only seen photos of the
various
models,and want to see the real thing up close and in-flight before I
decide.
Right now, however, I am leaning towards the Slingshot.
I have never built an airplane, but I have built many RC and free-flight
model airplanes. I am a private pilot with about 200 hours, but have
not
flown anything in almost 14 years. I have worked outside of the U.S. for
the past 12 years, and have recently moved back to the U.S. What I need
to
know is what tools I am going to need to build the airplane. I have read
that
only common hand tools are needed, but I would like to hear from someone
who has actually built a Kolb what is really needed to get the job done
right
in a reasonable amount of time. Also, I need to know what sort of
workbench
is required, particularly for the buildup of the wings. I have a 3-car
garage, so I don't expect space to be a problem.
I would very much appreciate some feedback on this.
Regards,
Bob Hodes
Sacramento California
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FSI/II Shoulder Harness |
Hello group,
I have a friend, Joe Carma, in Hammonton, NJ, who is building a FS I. It is
nearing completion and he is concerned that the original shoulder harness
which uses the single crossover type strap may be inadequate. Does anyone
have experience installing an aftermarket shoulder harness of the double strap
type on this model?
Would appreciate any input as to brand, model, attachment methods, etc.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WVarnes(at)aol.com: FSI/II Shoulder Harness |
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
From: WVarnes(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: FSI/II Shoulder Harness
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 23:36:12 EDT
Bill wrote:
Hello group,
I have a friend, Joe Carma, in Hammonton, NJ, who is building a FS I. It
is
nearing completion and he is concerned that the original shoulder
harness..............
Bill
I threw away the 3-point harness from Kolb. I got a 4-point harness from
Aircraft Spruce. Seat belt portion is attached just like Kolb's. The
should straps are attached near the outside portion of the spar
carry-thru. Don't know if it's any safer, but it sure feels more secure!
Bob Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Bruner <brunerd(at)ulster.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New FireStar Owner |
>To the group & John Jung
>I am the proud new owner of an original Firestar. A buitiful plane I am
>so looking forward to flying!! The 600 mile trip home went without
>incident.
>Adam Violett Original Firestar (owned but not flown ... yet)
>Spring Hill, KS
>asviolet(at)swbell.net
Adam,
Congratulations! Have to admit to a bit of jealousy, tho. Had my
eye on John's FS -- for too long :(
Expect to hear from you (on this list) on a regular basis.
This your 1st UL? How are you going to train for flying the FS?
David (shoulda sent a deposit) Bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SVerrill(at)aol.com |
Good Morning;
I just received Kit #1 for the Mark III and posted a similar letter just
over a week ago. What follows is a post of the excellent suggestions that I
received at that time. I hope they are as useful to you as I found them to
be. Its long.....but hang in there....you will be rewarded with some good
ideas!!!!
Good luck...
Steve Verrill
My Letter to the group...........................
Good Morning
I am a the proud owner of a whole lot of aluminum tubing that I am told
will one day be my favorite toy..... To that end...... I would appreciate
some assistance from those of you more experienced than I, in setting up my
shop properly:
1. Where do I find a good snap punch?
2. What tools for the riveting......is pneumatic recommended?
3. I have a belt/disc sander.......do I need a grinder?
4 Any other suggestions regarding the workshop/tools or otherwise?
Thank you for your assistance!!! I have been a member of the list for about a
month and have found it exceedingly informative.
Kind Regards,
Steve Verrill
Building Mark III
bsteinhagen(at)itol.com
Steve, Stanley makes a snap punch. I like Northern Hydraulics pneumatic
riveter. Bruce FS-II
Cavuontop(at)aol.com
n a message dated 6/21/98 10:08:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time, SVerrill(at)aol.com
writes:
<< 4 Any other suggestions regarding the workshop/tools or otherwise?
>>
I would get about 100 clecos and a cleco pliers. They made a huge difference
in the quality of the work that I did on my second kolb. The other thing I
would do is something I have been telling Dennis he should include in the kit.
Go to your local metal fabricating place and get them to made a very simple
jig for you. Have them make a couple of sleel strips one inch wide and one
eight of an inch thick and about a foot long. Have them use their CNC machine
to drill 1/8 holes in a straight line on one inch centers. This simple jig
will help you make your rivet lines super straight and consistent. It can
make a big difference in the appearance of your plane. I think I paid $20.00
for four strips. I got the idea from Dennis when I went to the factory and
asked how they made their rivet lines look so good.
larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net
Good luck on your new project. There's a couple of things I found when
building mine that I haven't seen on the group. The biggest thing is a 4"
belt / 6" disk, bench sander with a fine grit belt. Mine is a Delta Mod.
31-460, Type 2. Around $130.00, but it quickly became indispensable.
Seldom use my bench grinder any more. With care you can do fairly fine
polishing, and with a medium belt and some pressure, you can really cut
metal. Also very handy is a snap punch. Don't get the $20.00 one with the
wooden knob on it from Home Depot. They're junk. General Hardware's # 79
snap punch is in the same price range from the same store, and lasts forever.
Takes a little knack to use it right. To pick up the dot from the punch, try
a Black + Decker "Bullet Bit". It has a little tip on it to act as a starter
drill. Much easier to start an accurate hole. Then, when you have a hole in
sheet metal, and want to drill a piece accurately behind it, e.g. - hinges,
try a "Turbomax" bit from Chief Auto Parts. I think
they're made by Irwin, p.n. 73308. They resemble a woodworking Forstner
bit, with a shrouded tip. Otherwise, I have a real bad time trying to pick
the center of the hole for a standard bit. Neither of the above bits holds
up very well on 4130, especially the Turbomax. For 4130 steel, I like the
standard Titanium or Cobalt twist drills.
Good luck.
Big Lar.
----------
richard.wood(at)usa.net
> 1. Where do I find a good snap punch?
> 2. What tools for the riveting......is pneumatic recommended?
> 3. I have a belt/disc sander.......do I need a grinder?
> 4 Any other suggestions regarding the workshop/tools or otherwise?
>
First don't be a tool junkie.Tool quality often depends on how often you
intend to use it.My Sears bottom of the line pop riveter has probably pulled
20,000 rivets and it is still going strong a bit battered and not real pretty
but works good.If you are going to do a lot of pop riveting after you do this
maybe go for the air gun.The less you spend on unnecessary tools the more you
have for other goodies.Grinders come in handy but your sander should be
adequate.I would recommend a file for anything on the frame rather than a
power grinder just in case you slip.File all the square corners you can find
on the frame cause one of them corners has your name on it and will gouge you
when you least expect it.It also gives a more professional look to your
project.The hand swage tool works good and I feel you have more control over
cable tension with it.When cutting out gussets make one out of cardboard first
to get the right angle and then copy it onto aluminum.Don't be afraid to use
Mexican solder(duct tape)to hold parts you need to temporarily clamp.Works
good and sometimes better than "real" clamps. recomendations for tools-- hand
pop riveter,assorted files,a lot of 1\8 drills(Ask around for sheet metal
bits.They are pointed at each end so you can turn them around when they get
dull.)DUCT TAPE,screw down swage tool, string, bubble level,long straight
edge,beer. That should get you going. Most of the stuff you probably have
allready and anything else you can buy as you need it.
Woody
striplic(at)dfw.net
Steve,
First of all make a pipe rack on the wall of your garage. That is the only
way to really organize the tubing so you can see what you have. As the pipe
empties out it is also a good place to hang your finished parts.
> 1. Where do I find a good snap punch?
Home Depot, pretty much any hardward store, etc.
> 2. What tools for the riveting......is pneumatic recommended?
I did mine by hand. I think you have better control, but it does make you
look like Pop-eye when you are finished.
> 3. I have a belt/disc sander.......do I need a grinder?
I used a grinder / wire brush and was very happy. I have heard that others
have used the sanders with good success. The wire brush buffed the sharp
edges on all parts very well.
> 4 Any other suggestions regarding the workshop/tools or otherwise?
Obviously a good vice. I liked a Dremel style tool and found many uses for
it.
Two drills (one kept chucked with 1/8th) and one that you switch bits a lot
with. Mine were corded rather than battery. BD bullet drill bits. A
hundred or so metal screws (for use as cheap Clecos).
A 4X8 sheet of particle board makes a good flat bench surface for building
the flying surfaces and saw horses (right height so you can work from under
as well as over and long enough to span from front spar to back of flap
trailing edge) for the main wings. Make up full sized paper templates from
the dimensions and use finishing nails (as pins) to hold the parts in
place... sorta like building the old style balsa model airplanes. I use
gussets in many places especially on the trailing edges of the flying
surfaces. Measure twice (thrice) and cut once. Have the plans pretty much
in your head before you begin a piece.
>Thank you for your assistance!!! I have been a member of the list for about
a
>month and have found it exceedingly informative.
You should really enjoy building. I sure did.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
whofmann(at)eudoramail.com
Hello Steve,
I'm building a FireFly and about finished framing the wings and tail. Today I
worked on the aileron hinges. I agree with the other folks who have responded
that a pneumatic riveter is overkill.
I really suggest you try to find a tubing bender. I bought a really cheap one
from "Harbor Freight Tools" for about $6 (and not worth any more). They are
really helpful when bending the trailing edges of the elevators and ailerons.
A small table top drill press has proven very helpful. For example when
drilling the many holes in the hinges. I just set up a simple jig to keep the
edge distance constant.
About 40 - 1/8" cleco's have really helped.
I bought a simple hole deburring tool.
My biggest extravagance was a 4 foot digital level ( about $100). It helped
get the wing jig right, and I think it will be very helpful when rigging the
wings. It reads out in degrees.
Good luck with your project !
---
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Wally Hofmann
Wickenburg, Arizona
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb greenhorn |
Bob
There is a considerable set of discussions in the archives of this list on
tools required and building tables. Tools were discussed within the month.
The major issue is keeping the table flat for 12 feet. Any twist or
undulation in the table will be built into the wing.
I procured a pair of steel 2"x4" x.062 tubes from a local scrap dealer
which were obvious surplus from some project. These insured a long flat
reference edge for my table. I used 5/8" plywood siding to make the table
surface which insured squareness and parallel edges and gave me a surface
to screw into. I built 1"x 4" longitudinal and cross bracing under the
table top to insure flatness and a 4" spacing to a lower surface. The
lower surface was a cheep 3/32" plywood floor underlayment and this gave me
torsional stiffness as well as surface rigidity. I then set the table on
saw horses and had no qualms about walking on it.
Ron
>I am planning to build an airplane and I have pretty much narrowed the
>choices down to a Kolb. I am going to Oshkosh in July so that I can
>decide which of the kits to order. I have only seen photos of the
>various
>models,and want to see the real thing up close and in-flight before I
>decide.
>Right now, however, I am leaning towards the Slingshot.
>I have never built an airplane, but I have built many RC and free-flight
>
>model airplanes. I am a private pilot with about 200 hours, but have
>not
>flown anything in almost 14 years. I have worked outside of the U.S. for
>
>the past 12 years, and have recently moved back to the U.S. What I need
>to
>know is what tools I am going to need to build the airplane. I have read
>that
>only common hand tools are needed, but I would like to hear from someone
>
>who has actually built a Kolb what is really needed to get the job done
>right
>in a reasonable amount of time. Also, I need to know what sort of
>workbench
>is required, particularly for the buildup of the wings. I have a 3-car
>garage, so I don't expect space to be a problem.
>I would very much appreciate some feedback on this.
>
>Regards,
>
>Bob Hodes
>Sacramento California
>
>
>
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb greenhorn |
Bob,
I am about 35 hours into the construction of my Mark III. I asked this same
question and I got some good advice and I'm sure you will get the same from
the more experienced. These are my recommendations:
Get the pre-built ribs: this is usually a show special (free option).
Perfect and consistent ribs and this saves a lot of work.
Powder coating: Well worth the extra $$.
Work Table: I built my from angle iron (1.5" x 1.5" x 3/16") and 1"pipe legs
that are adjustable (for level). I weld so this was easy for me. For the tops
I purchased 3/4" - 4' x 8' underlayment (real smooth particleboard) from
Lowe's for less than $10.00 per sheet. I have two tables and was able to
layout the horizontal stabilizer, vertical stabilizer, and rudder at the same
time. The wings will layout across the two tables when placed end to end. My
two 4' x 8' tables cost $55.00 in materials and I enjoy being able to spread
out stuff.
Clecos: Need at least 50 1/8". Clecos make for a lot neater and high quality
job. They hold things in place when you are trying to drill many holes in the
same piece like a gusset. I recommend Aircraft Tool Supply
(800-248-0638/www.aircraft-tool.com) for best price and they have free
shipping with > $60.00 order. Clecos are around 31 cents each and $5.00 for
the pliers.
Drill bits: Get the Black & Decker bullet drill bits as recommended in the
construction manual. They are in all the Lowes, Home Depot's and Wal-Marts
here. Also get a few #30 drill bits to ream the 1/8" holes out a bit. This
make the rivets fit a lot better.
Vice: Need a bench vice for squeezing the ends of 5/16" tubing flat. I also
scrounged up some aluminum angle for non-marring faces. I purchased some
3/16" key stock from the hardware store to make a jig for squeezing the ends
of the 5/16" ribs. I superglued the keystock with a stop piece for depth to
the aluminum angle iron and this makes the job easy and I get consistent
pieces quickly without a lot of concentration.
Dremel Tool: Great for taking some of the rough edges off. A lot of folks
recommend a bench sander instead of a bench grinder. Big Larry recommended 4"
belt/6" disk Delta Model #31-460 for about $130.00. Medium and Fine sandpaper
do a good job of removing aluminum and will leave a smoother finish.
Snap Punch: got to have one.
Quick-Grip bar clamps: A few of these will keep things still while you try to
drill those exact holes. Hard to drill a moving target.
Good Sheet Metal Snips: Need these to cut the gussets out of the .032" sheet
material.
Reference Material: I have found "Kitplane Construction" by Ronald J.
Wanttaja indispensible. It contains a lot of info on standards for homebuilts
construction (like minimums for rivet spacing, etc). It also has some good
advice on metal working techniques. Good reference that ensures that things
are done correctly.
Riveter: There are a lot of rivets. I am a tool junky and opted for the
pneumatic blind riveter for (~$100.00). A less expensive hand riveter would
do just fine and will give you quite a strong grip. Your manhood would never
be in question when you shake hands.
Epoxy Primer: Optional sort of. I have decided to dip each rivet in poly-
fiber epoxy primer. They have white now which matches the white powdercoating
nicely. I chose to do this because of the high humidity in my neck of the
woods and the corrosion factor of dissimilar metals (aluminum/SS). There is a
recommendation in the contruction manual to fill several rivets in the rudder
to prevent water from getting in. Since I had to do this anyway I decided to
do all the rivets. You have to use something that is compatible with the
covering system and that means Poly-Fiber Epoxy Primer (two-part mixing). You
can get a one quart kit that makes 2.5 quarts when mixed from places like
Aircraft Spruce, Wicks, etc. In fact, Sacramento Sky Ranch is one of the
recommended Poly-Fiber Distrubutors (916-421-7672). Seems like that is most
convient to you. The shipping charges for HazMat stuff is really starting to
add up.
Hope this helps. Sorry if long winded. This has been my first opportunity to
offer some advice . Most of this is my taking someone else's good advice.
:0)
Good luck,
John Bickham
Mark III Parts Builder
St. Francisville, LA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb greenhorn |
>I am planning to build an airplane and I have pretty much narrowed the
>choices down to a Kolb.
Also, I need to know what sort of
workbench is required, particularly for the buildup of the wings.
>
>Bob Hodes
>Sacramento California
>
> Everybody likes their own ideas the best, so here is mine...
Find a couple used interior doors in good shape. make yourself a table frame
thats about 8-10" narrower than the width of the doors, so you have a frame
that's about 22" wide and 10 feet long. Have 2 legs at each end and in the
middle. At the bottom of each leg, screw in a fairly good size lag bolt.
Nail the two doors end to end on top of the frame with finishing
nails. True the table up for perfect trueness with a level and a wrench to
run the lag bolts in and out. You should have a work table thats perfectly
flat, level and unwarped this way. I used good straight 1"x6"'s around the
top, and 2"x4"'s everywhere else. Cross brace one side so that it can't
wiggle or flex. Leave one side open so you can get to the shelf you will put in.
Make the overall height high enough that you don't need to bend
over. Your back will thank you.
Down the outside of each frame legs on one side drive in a row of
angled nails. Use them for a verticle rack and lay your tubing in it. Put a
cross brace about 6" below the doors and use this for another tubing rack.
Put a shelf about 10" off the floor and keep boxes of parts and
pending stuff on the shelf. Keep the big boxes of parts that the ribs, etc.,
came in under the shelf.
Having everything neat and readily sorted and accessable makes it
more fun.
If you already have an air compressor, buy an air drill. You will
never regret it. Run an airhose to a point overhead, so the hose will reach
anywhere on the table.
Make up a dozen little 1"x1"x3" blocks of wood and drill a hole
through the middle of each one. Get sheet metal phillips head screws to go
through them, and use them for instant hold downs anywhere on the table.
Position your part, stick a block against it, and use the electric
screwdriver to screw it to the tabletop/door skin.
Buy a roll of 18" wide masking paper at Sherwin Williams or similar
for about 5 bucks. When you get ready to lay out an aileron, elevator, etc.,
stretch it over your table, masking tape it down, and draw the part full
size. Use your blocks to help position the parts so they won't move. If you
have some big spring clamps to help hold the parts to the blocks, it is even
better. When you finish the part, rip the paper off, throw it away, and put
out a new paper for the next part. Use the rest of the paper to mask off
when you paint. (It doesn't have pinholes and newsprint like newspaper does)
This might sound like overkill, but you ccan make this whole thing
up in a couple hours, (not counting scrounging two used doors) and a good
workbench really makes it a lot more fun.
I also got some old carpet and put about 3 thicknesses down the
floor on both sides of the workbench. Standing on a concrete garage floor is
the pits.
Your friends that come over to see the project will be so impressed
with the table that when you get done, some one will buy it for about what
you have in it. ($35-$45)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 30 Jun 1998 15:03:11 UT
(Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA11961;
| Subject: | Re: FSI/II Shoulder Harness |
Just a couple comments about the shoulder harness Kolb supplies with
the FireFly which I believe is same style as the FireStar.
I'm a little shorter and as result I find the single crossover strap
comes down right at the point where it interferes with my headset
severely enough to distract me significantly. As it stands I told my
partner I refuse to flight until we change the belts. It doesn't
impact him to as significant degree since he sits higher.
As to sources there Aircraft Spruce and there used to be an outfit
called Hooker Harnesses which is probably where they get them. Search
the UL manufacturer and supplier list or see the Kit Planes supplier
directory.
Jerry
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: FSI/II Shoulder Harness
Date: 6/29/98 10:42 PM
Hello group,
I have a friend, Joe Carma, in Hammonton, NJ, who is building a FS I. It is
nearing completion and he is concerned that the original shoulder harness
which uses the single crossover type strap may be inadequate. Does anyone
have experience installing an aftermarket shoulder harness of the double strap
type on this model?
Would appreciate any input as to brand, model, attachment methods, etc.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
When I built my VW powered MKIII I decided that the wing was largest part
of the MKIII and it would provide the most impact by being cleaned up. I
chose to replace the trailing edge of the ailerons and flaps with aircraft
trailing edge material from aircraft spruce. This part is primarily sheet
aluminum folded into a "v". This makes for a trailing edge that is much
more streamlined than the tubing called for in the plans but it does weigh
app. twice as much. The flap and aileron ribs were squezed and inserted
into the trailing edge materal so that there are no gussets, bends, or
overlap. I then added aileron balance weights to adjust for this extra
weight on the trailing edge. A side benefit is that I don't get that
trailing edge scalloping between the ribs that we normally see on Kolbs.
I then used clear Mylar in the gap between the trailing edge of the wings
and flaps/ailerons. On the flaps I attached the Mylar tight on the bottom
of the wing and flaps creating a smooth surface from the leading edge to
trailing edge of the wing. On the ailerons I attached the Mylar tight with
the aileron in the extreme up position. These changes seem to be working
but I have no base line for comparison. Note this change doesn't restrict
any control movement or the folding of the wing.
In the future I will add thicker Mylar to the top of the gap between the
wing and the flaps. This will be attached only on the trailing edge of the
wing and lay back over the top of the flaps. I'm also planning to add
streamlining to most anything that is out in the wind.
So far in my testing of my plane I seem to be getting app. 80mph at
3100rpm (cruise).
My $.02 worth Richard Neilsen VW powered MKIII.
>>> 06/27/98 10:38pm >>>
The absolute biggest drag device on a Kolb is the wing airfoil.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb greenhorn |
On Tue, 30 Jun 1998, Ron Hoyt wrote:
> The major issue is keeping the table flat for 12 feet. Any twist or
> undulation in the table will be built into the wing.
The wing itself is not built directly on the table so a lousy table is
not a problem there. At least when I built my FS the plans called
for building the wings on a straight cross piece at each end and
these are reliably checked for no twist (relative to each other) with
a carpenter's level. Use fishing line kept taught along the leading
and trailing edges as a site guide to make sure they stay straight.
For all other pieces built on the table, (tail pieces and ailerons), I
used shims as needed to accomodate low spots in the table. For the
ailerons, they are way too long to trust almost any table anyway.
Other tools: Not much. A hand drill, hand riveter, file, vice,snap punch
and hack saw, and you are all set until time to paint. (Opinions vary
on this of course.) For painting you'll need a compressor and paint
gun, a subject in itself.
BTW, Bob, I see we're practically neighbors. Give me a call if you'd
like to come over and see my plane or whatever.
-Ben Ransom (Davis) Home: (530) 753-3960
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb greenhorn |
On Tue, 30 Jun 1998, Richard Pike wrote:
> Buy a roll of 18" wide masking paper at Sherwin Williams or similar
You can also get discarded roll ends from places that print newspapers.
I get probably upto 100' of 30" wide for $2. Used to get it for my kids
to draw on. :-) Of course if you have a raspy looking workbench, you
just draw out your airplane parts right on the bench, and smile proudly
at those fine lines for years to come.
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
A certain person may hate me for this but you gotta check-out the page I
stumbled on today:
http://www.rewindplay.com/mxjournal/mxl24.htm
...Don't look Dennis!
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>My only comparison is a clipped Challenger 1 in my club. ...
AHA!! So we were comparing buzzards to barn swallows. To my knowledge,
Kolb doesn't sell or approve of a "clipped-wing" anything although
someone somewhere has undoubtedly tried it.
I'm sure your buddy does scoot right along but he gave-up some other nice
qualities in the trade. Come to think of it, my Challenger might benefit
greatly from faster air moving over that tiny tail.
..Where's my hacksaw?!
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
I had my brother, a cabinet maker, build a 12' x 5' plywood sheet table
with legs at waist-high level. It worked out well for me and I loaned it
to another builder who built his Mark II on it.
You guys that use saw horses that support the ends of the wings, don't
you have to support the middle of the wing to avoid any sag in the
aluminum?
If you don't believe your spar will sag, walk around to the rear of your
plane
some time, tailwheel on the ground, and sight down the fuselage tube.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henry Wortman <hwortman(at)datasys.net> |
| Subject: | Muffler coatings |
Ralph Burlingame mentioned coating his muffler with a 1500 degree flat
black paint and it holding up very well. Occasionally spraying it with
Armor All.
I have the muffler off of my 503 and am getting it sandblasted so I can
paint it with the high temp paint. The thought occured to me about
coating the muffler and manifold with Teflon. Several years ago I had a
Browning shotgun that was lost in a pond while duck hunting. It spent
ten days submerged and when I recovered it all of the blueing was gone.
It only took about thirty minutes before the gun was rusted all over. I
had the gun disassembled and teflon coated. From then on it held up
great under all kinds of abusive treatment and never rusted.
Since some cookware is teflon coated, what about doing the same with
the exaust system??? Ralph referred me to the group for an answer.
Thanks, Henry (The snooping challenger driver) Your flaming comment
Mick!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
At Sun in Fun last year/2 ago a couple from Oklahoma parked next to kolb had
some custom 4 point harness made for airplanes including Kolbs, I bought a set
for the Firestar 2 and so did my buds. At the time I posted this here and as
far as I know a lot of Kolbers bought them, at lease when she sent mine in the
mail she thanked me for all the business.
A good friend also has used them on a lot of his custom built biplanes and he
has them made for annuals he does for customers, in other words they are real
nice belts and are nice people in fact I believe they might be the supplier
for Aircraft Spruce.
If anybody is interested, I will look for their phone number.
It's just really nice to find a company (like Kolb) that is such a pleasure to
deal with so I am glad to pass them on to others.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
| Subject: | SlingShot for sale |
Hi all,
I've decided it's time to get serious about selling the SlingShot. I just
can't seem to find time to work on my RV-8A project.
-SlingShot - SS-003 - N8754K
-503 engine and 2-blade IVO prop
-Panel includes EIS and GPS
-Currently set up as single place with 13 gallon tank (rear seat and original
jugs included if you want to set it back up as 2-place with 10 gallons)
-Max climb is 800 fpm, cruise at 6000 is about 82 mph, 401 lb empty weight
-Plane and engine will have around 50 hours by the time anyone looks at it.
-Price is $15,000 (serious inquiries only please)
If you know anyone who's interested, please send them my way. (A few months
back, I received e-mail about a couple of people that might be interested, but
unfortunately my mail archives are toast, so I don't have those anymore.)
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
rad(at)pcola.gulf.net
850-936-8791
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
>A certain person may hate me for this but you gotta check-out the page I
>stumbled on today:
>http://www.rewindplay.com/mxjournal/mxl24.htm
>
>...Don't look Dennis!
Hehe....
Looking at those pictures probably brings back fond memories of his past
flying time doing aerobatics in an UltraStar!! Personally, I get scared
when I get past 10=B0 angle of bank. :)
Skip
1984 UltraStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us> |
What is the best way to lub the connection between the muffler and the
manifold of a Rotax 503? I looked in the book and it said to use
antiseze. How often does this have to be done? Do I have to take the
muffler off or can I brush some around the connection and wiggle it in?
Thanks for the help
Gary
=========================================================================
| Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us |
| Souderton Pa. | |
| | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only) |
=========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb greenhorn |
Of course if you have a raspy looking workbench, you
>just draw out your airplane parts right on the bench, and smile proudly
>at those fine lines for years to come.
>-Ben
>
>-
> Now comes true confessions time: The real treason I had to lay out
fresh paper each time was, I would tape down the paper, read the plans,
measure, draw the part, measure, scratch my head, measure again, look at the
plans, rip it off, wad it up, and start over.
If I had just drawn on the table, the only thing I would have built
was confusion!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adam Violett <asviolet(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New FireStar Owner |
I have been flying a old Quicksilver MX2A. Have also recieved some dual
time in three axis, in a Rans S12. I will practice ground handeling in
my yard (2 acres). Then CAREFULLY go fly, and more importently, land.
Adam (have only sat in and dreamed so far) Violett
I have been flying a old Quicksilver MX2A. Have also recieved some dual
time in three axis, in a Rans S12. I will practice ground handeling in
my yard (2 acres). Then CAREFULLY go fly, and more importently,
land.
Adam (have only sat in and dreamed so far) Violett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb greenhorn |
>> Now comes true confessions time: The real treason I had to lay out
>fresh paper each time was, I would tape down the paper, read the plans,
>measure, draw the part, measure, scratch my head, measure again, look at the
>plans, rip it off, wad it up, and start over.
> If I had just drawn on the table, the only thing I would have built
>was confusion!
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
I didn't use any paper. The secret- a pencil, and a really BIG (when I started)
eraser :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Gary,
You need to take the connection apart to apply the anti-sieze. I do
it when I de-carbon - every 100 hours.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 16.4 hrs
SE Wisconsin
>
> Gary Thacker wrote:
>
> What is the best way to lub the connection between the muffler and the
> manifold of a Rotax 503? I looked in the book and it said to use
> antiseze. How often does this have to be done? Do I have to take the
> muffler off or can I brush some around the connection and wiggle it in?
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> Gary
>
> =========================================================================
> | Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us |
> | Souderton Pa. | |
> | | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only) |
> =========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4 point belts |
Tim,
Please post the number. i am in the market for some 4 point
harnesses. How was their cost?
John Jung
SE Wisconsin
>
>Timandjan(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> At Sun in Fun last year/2 ago a couple from Oklahoma parked next to kolb had
> some custom 4 point harness made for airplanes including Kolbs, I bought a set
> for the Firestar 2 and so did my buds. At the time I posted this here and as
> far as I know a lot of Kolbers bought them, at lease when she sent mine in the
> mail she thanked me for all the business.
> A good friend also has used them on a lot of his custom built biplanes and he
> has them made for annuals he does for customers, in other words they are real
> nice belts and are nice people in fact I believe they might be the supplier
> for Aircraft Spruce.
>
> If anybody is interested, I will look for their phone number.
>
> It's just really nice to find a company (like Kolb) that is such a pleasure to
> deal with so I am glad to pass them on to others.
> tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Ralph,
Sight down a wing supported on horses and they will be straight.
Much less weight. Horses worked good for me. I could get under, over and
inside the wing to get at all the rivets.
John Jung
SE Wisconsin
>
>Ralph H Burlingame wrote:
>
> I had my brother, a cabinet maker, build a 12' x 5' plywood sheet table
> with legs at waist-high level. It worked out well for me and I loaned it
> to another builder who built his Mark II on it.
>
> You guys that use saw horses that support the ends of the wings, don't
> you have to support the middle of the wing to avoid any sag in the
> aluminum?
> If you don't believe your spar will sag, walk around to the rear of your
> plane
> some time, tailwheel on the ground, and sight down the fuselage tube.
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original FireStar 400 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Gary,
I use an anti-seize bought from the local auto parts store. I forget the
name, but it comes in a tube and is silver in color. I use it about once
every 3 yrs. If you apply too much, it ends up on your tail surfaces.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
writes:
>
>What is the best way to lub the connection between the muffler and the
>manifold of a Rotax 503? I looked in the book and it said to use
>antiseze. How often does this have to be done? Do I have to take the
>muffler off or can I brush some around the connection and wiggle it
>in?
>
>Thanks for the help
>
>Gary
>
>=========================================================================
>| Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us
> |
>| Souderton Pa. |
> |
>| | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only)
> |
>=========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Call of the clouds |
Group,
Well I couldn't resist the call of the clouds this evening. It was a
blue sky, with a few cumulus clouds left. The sun was lighting the
clouds from the other side, making them look like they were glowing at
the edges and tops. As I climbed toward cruise altitude, I wondered what
they looked like from the top. And I wondered, and I wondered. I just
kept climbing until I was above them. 6,800 ASL. What a view! I flew
over the top of one of the clouds to get a good look at it. They really
look even better from the top. For those of you that don't fly high, you
really should try it.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 16.4
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Muffler coatings |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>
<.....Your flaming comment
>Mick!!
>
Woops! FRC, Henry and anyone else:
I may have jumped a little quick when learning that the 'speedy'
Challenger in question was a clipped-wing. Sorry to FRC (still don't know
your name...) if you took offense, none was intended. If I wanted flames,
I'd re-subscribe to the Fly-ul list.
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
Johann
I fly with the same helmet what I did was to add the a pad to the inside
of the helmet
then put the ear cup to the pad with velcro if you need more info. call
GOVERNMENT SALES INC.
Aviation Flight Equipment
( 860 ) 247-7787
Rick Libersat
writes:
>Hi Kolbers,
>
>I have been flying with a new helmet. It is a former Navy jet-pilot
>helmet called HGU34/P. I do not know if it is the helmet or that I
>just
>increased the pitch of the IVO prop, but I do get a bad ear-ache after
>each flight. The noise or vibration is worst at approx. 4200-5000 rpm.
>
>
>Has anyone experienced this problem? If so, could you tell me how to
>fix it, because I really need my ears for work, it is not acceptable
>to
>use too much "say again" when controlling air traffic.
>
>Best regards,
>Jhann G.
>Iceland. (enjoying the bright night flying)
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Hodes <hodesrus(at)cwnet.com> |
| Subject: | thanks from "Kolb Greenhorn" |
I want to express my appreciation to all who have written in response to
my request for information (15 so far). Your information and advice
will make it a lot easier for me to get going once I have my kit.
Many thanks,
Bob Hodes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | STRAIGHT ANGLE IRON??? |
There has been alot of quotes lately that went something like ..."I used
a piece of steel angle to make sure it was straight..." or "the tubing
made sure it was aligned..." and so forth. Well I work for a LARGE steel
fabricator in Georgia and I want to squash any myth about steel being
straight...:( Steel is not "straight" like a good level is or a tightly
pulled piece of fishing line. The steel rolling mills have wrote in to
there own specifactions allowances for camber, twist, sway and so forth.
YES!!! Steel is generally straighter than a 2X4 or most other
materials... but DON'T assume that just because it was once iron ore it
is straight!! I'm sure everyone knows this but I felt it wouldn't hurt
to repeat...
P.S. If the piece of steel you want to use has ever been torch cut then
I will just about guarantee that it is NOT straight! Heat from a torch
(or welding ) can make spagetti out of a steel angle (or even a beam for
that matter)
Jeremy (just saying "check it out to be sure before you assume it's
straight") Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
There has been alot of
quotes lately
that went something like ..."I used a piece of steel angle to make
sure it
was straight..." or "the tubing made sure it was
aligned..." and so forth. Well I work for a LARGE steel fabricator
in
Georgia and I want to squash any myth about steel being
straight...:(
Steel is not "straight" like a good level is or a tightly
pulled piece
of fishing line. The steel rolling mills have wrote in to there
own
specifactions allowances for camber, twist, sway and so
forth.
YES!!! Steel is generally
straighter
than a 2X4 or most other materials... but DON'T assume that just because
it was
once iron ore it is straight!! I'm sure everyone knows this but I felt
it
wouldn't hurt to repeat...
P.S. If the piece of
steel you
want to use has ever been torch cut then I will just about guarantee
that it is
NOT straight! Heat from a torch (or welding ) can make spagetti out of a
steel
angle (or even a beam for that matter)
Jeremy
(just saying "check it out to be sure before you assume
it's
straight") Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com<=
/DIV>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Gross <RPGross(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FSI/II Shoulder Harness |
WVarnes(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hi Bill,
The single shoulder harness is inadequate. I recently replaced mine with
a unit from WAG-AERO for about 89 bucks. It has four points. I attached
the shoulder harness to the steel member that crosses the fuselage
between the fwd wing attach pins. now I can reach forward to mainipulate
controls on the instrument panel. It is more comfortable as well!
Bob
1987 original FS/ rotax 377
> Hello group,
>
> I have a friend, Joe Carma, in Hammonton, NJ, who is building a FS I. It is
> nearing completion and he is concerned that the original shoulder harness
> which uses the single crossover type strap may be inadequate. Does anyone
> have experience installing an aftermarket shoulder harness of the double strap
> type on this model?
>
> Would appreciate any input as to brand, model, attachment methods, etc.
>
> Bill Varnes
> Original FireStar 377
> Audubon, NJ
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayland, William C." <wcw2573(at)eagle.sbeach.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Nose Cone Repair |
Back on 6/21/98 I sent in some questions regarding nose cone repair using my
wife's home computer and MJWAY(at)aol.com access to the Internet. Last night
as I looked over her shoulder at a listing of 3 direct replies she
accidentally deleted one of them. Ahhh#!!!***#####!!!!!!! But we have
been married for 32 years and I have learned how to keep my cool. From now
on I'm going to ONLY use my own access !
I did get the 6/21/98 replies from Frcole, from Cliff and Carolyn
Stripling (thanks for all the detail), and also from "bobdoebler". Thanks
very much. The reply that got deleted was, I think (???), a more recent
date. If that person is willing to reply again, thanks.
Chris Wayland, FireFly S/N 8 @ 63 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4 point belts |
>Tim,
> Please post the number. i am in the market for some 4 point
>harnesses. How was their cost?
>John Jung
>SE Wisconsin
Summit Racing sells 4-point (actually 5-point, but you don't have to
use the submarine strap) for $59.95. Shoulder harness is either dual or
Y-type, you need to specify which you want. Hardware included.
They come in red, blue, black, neon pink, and neon yellow. They are
NHRA approved.
They are at 1-800-230-3030
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
via SMTP by pop-proxy04.primenet.com, id smtpd016341; Wed Jul 1 08:31:28 1998
| From: | swultra <swultra(at)primenet.com> |
Hi all, I was looking at the pictures of john's plane and it appers that
it doesn't have gap seals on the top of the wing ??????? Also awile back
I asked if anybody new what happened to Jim Lee from Lakeland u/l
Thanks Steve Ward Mark-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
John,
Now if you did the "seafoam treatment" there would be no need to
decarbonize.
See all that work that you can save yourself!
Ralph (seafoam) Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
>Gary,
> You need to take the connection apart to apply the anti-sieze. I do
>it when I de-carbon - every 100 hours.
>John Jung
>Firestar II N6163J 16.4 hrs
>SE Wisconsin
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | seat belt number |
The 4 point harness' came from Venture Aerodome in Oklahoma. (918) 427-6490. I
believe Cindy was the lady I worked with(might be wrong however). I ordered
mine at Sun in Fun so I got a show discount, but I think they are 90.00 each,
as good as my memory can recall.
You can even tell that you got her number from Tim in Louisiana and I am sure
she will remember me. I think she also measured all the Kolbs at the show so
they should have them available for all the planes. They have all colors of
webbing also.
Hope this helps.
Tim Loehrke
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Call of the clouds |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
John,
That must have been a neat flight. The highest I've been in the FS is
7100 ASL.
A few weeks ago, a friend and I were flying next to some spectacular
low-level clouds that were just forming. He was ahead of me and the sight
of those big puffy billows of cotton was awesome when looking at its
perspective to the ground. On another occasion, I flew a distance of 18
mi, 1000' above the clouds waiting for the ground fog to breakup on
route. Starting out, it was clear and I flew over a wall of fog. When my
tank was down to half, I turned around and backtracked. It was a very
wise decision because the fog that day at that location was 1/4 mi on the
ground. When I returned to my home field, it was still clear, but after
taking the FS down and trailering it home, I had my headlights on. I
would not have attempted such a flight without a GPS.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
>Group,
> Well I couldn't resist the call of the clouds this evening. It was
>a
>blue sky, with a few cumulus clouds left. The sun was lighting the
>clouds from the other side, making them look like they were glowing at
>the edges and tops. As I climbed toward cruise altitude, I wondered
>what
>they looked like from the top. And I wondered, and I wondered. I just
>kept climbing until I was above them. 6,800 ASL. What a view! I flew
>over the top of one of the clouds to get a good look at it. They
>really
>look even better from the top. For those of you that don't fly high,
>you
>really should try it.
>John Jung
>Firestar II N6163J 16.4
>SE Wisconsin
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Muffler coatings |
Henry,
I am going on second hand info here. I worked my way through college in the
Engineering Research machine shop. We fooled with some pretty exotic stuff at
times. You know how them engineers are! Anyway, we did some work with TFE
and we had to be careful not to exceed 650 deg F or a chemical breakdown would
occur and toxic fumes would result. I think you will find that most ovens
won't go above 550 deg F unless they are on fire. Seems to bear out. Not
sure what temp your muffler sees but I would be cautious until I checked this
thouroughly.
Hope I don't get jumped for this.
With best intentions,
John Bickham
Mark III in progress
St. Francisville, LA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cd of various shapes |
THose drag nuimbers are from
Aerodynamics of V/STOL Flight by McCormick
but he referances the data to Hoerner and Delany/Sorenson and Abbott and
von Doenhoff which is a list of the drag gods.
those numbers were for Reynolds numbers of 10^7 so fairly high for
ultralights. At Ultralight Re (below 600000 say) drag jumps up for all
shapes ... and like magic the differance is close to 10 to 1. So who
ever told you that is right for a given Re. As far as wires go the
other thing you have to consider is that they vibrate and effect a lot
more air then just their static area, like ten times more so that might
be what he was refering to also.
I havent discussed putting other airfoils on the wing cause I think
thats nuts. the effect on structure and flying qualities of a new
airfoil is so huge that your talking totally different aircraft. you
would have to do a complete set of flying qualities and structural
testing to see the effects. The Kolb is great and to mess with it more
then a few fairings to see what you can wring out of it is to throw out
all Homer and Dennis' hard earned experiance.
I am designing a VTOL ultralight and I can tell you that Airfoil design
has a huge influance on how the plane works and how loads are
distributed on the wing.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Muffler coatings |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
I noticed quite a few (maybe 7 or 8) of the UL's at the Texoma fly-in had
had their muffs 'Cerma-chromed' (sp?). When the owner was there, I made a
point to ask how much time had passed since the process, the highest
guess was around 18 months and it looked as good as all the rest. I'm
sold...
Jim Baker and Cliff Stripling both have had it done, might ask them.
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 2 Jul 1998 10:39:06 UT
(Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA9058;
What is the FireFly and SlingShort. They each have 22 foot wings.
Sounds kind of chopped to me from the longer FireStar wing.
Jerry
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Wings
Date: 6/30/98 5:41 PM
>My only comparison is a clipped Challenger 1 in my club. ...
AHA!! So we were comparing buzzards to barn swallows. To my knowledge,
Kolb doesn't sell or approve of a "clipped-wing" anything although
someone somewhere has undoubtedly tried it.
I'm sure your buddy does scoot right along but he gave-up some other nice
qualities in the trade. Come to think of it, my Challenger might benefit
greatly from faster air moving over that tiny tail.
..Where's my hacksaw?!
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
(InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Drain Grommets? |
The manual doesn't say anything about them, has anyone on the list put them
in?
If so where? I'm told that seaplane grommets are the best to use, comments,
advise? Dennis, anyone?
thanks
Geoff Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Drain Grommets? |
>The manual doesn't say anything about them, has anyone on the list put them
>in?
>If so where? I'm told that seaplane grommets are the best to use, comments,
>advise? Dennis, anyone?
>thanks
>Geoff Thistlethwaite
>
>-
> Maybe I missed something. Are we talking about drain holes in closed
fabric surfaces? If so, seaplane grommets are good. So is a new pencil tip
soldering iron. (Careful! If you push hard, you will go through the next
layer up, like the TOP surface of the aileron!)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrio Taucer <adrio(at)capitalnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Call of the clouds |
Interesting flight. I have one comment though and I am not "preaching"
so please don't take it the wrong way. I work for Transport Canada
(the Canadian version of your FAA) and one of my responsibilities is
GPS. I do not recommend trusting a non certified (TSO) GPS receiver into
quasi IFR. These hand held units may not have RAIM (receiver autonomous
integrity monitoring) which (very simplified) is designed to use
redundant satellite information to verify the validity of the computed
position. With GPS being so accurate and repeatable we easily fall into
trusting it too much. GPS is a great tool but even with five 9's of
availability you don't want to be on top when that 1 in a million comes
up. Enough, I get off the soap box now (and have just justified reading
Kolb mail at work for the next 100 years).
But I agree the clouds look great from that perspective and I think it
fulfills all our childhood dreams of flight when we get a chance to fly
between the big puffy ones.
Happy (and safe) flying,
Adrio
Ralph H Burlingame wrote:
>
> John,
>
> That must have been a neat flight. The highest I've been in the FS is
> 7100 ASL.
> A few weeks ago, a friend and I were flying next to some spectacular
> low-level clouds that were just forming. He was ahead of me and the sight
> of those big puffy billows of cotton was awesome when looking at its
> perspective to the ground. On another occasion, I flew a distance of 18
> mi, 1000' above the clouds waiting for the ground fog to breakup on
> route. Starting out, it was clear and I flew over a wall of fog. When my
> tank was down to half, I turned around and backtracked. It was a very
> wise decision because the fog that day at that location was 1/4 mi on the
> ground. When I returned to my home field, it was still clear, but after
> taking the FS down and trailering it home, I had my headlights on. I
> would not have attempted such a flight without a GPS.
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original FireStar 400 hrs
>
> >Group,
> > Well I couldn't resist the call of the clouds this evening. It was
> >a
> >blue sky, with a few cumulus clouds left. The sun was lighting the
> >clouds from the other side, making them look like they were glowing at
> >the edges and tops. As I climbed toward cruise altitude, I wondered
> >what
> >they looked like from the top. And I wondered, and I wondered. I just
> >kept climbing until I was above them. 6,800 ASL. What a view! I flew
> >over the top of one of the clouds to get a good look at it. They
> >really
> >look even better from the top. For those of you that don't fly high,
> >you
> >really should try it.
> >John Jung
> >Firestar II N6163J 16.4
> >SE Wisconsin
> >-
> >
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 08:41:18 +0100
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Wings
Not only that, but is't the Firestar II wing a clipped Mark II/III
wing? I measured a Mark III wing and it looked like it would mount to a
Firestar.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 28 hrs
SE Wisconsin
>
>jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
>
> What is the FireFly and SlingShort. They each have 22 foot wings.
> Sounds kind of chopped to me from the longer FireStar wing.
>
> Jerry
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
> Subject: Re: Wings
> Author: mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) at MAILGATE
> Date: 6/30/98 5:41 PM
>
>
> >My only comparison is a clipped Challenger 1 in my club. ...
>
> AHA!! So we were comparing buzzards to barn swallows. To my knowledge,
> Kolb doesn't sell or approve of a "clipped-wing" anything although
> someone somewhere has undoubtedly tried it.
>
> I'm sure your buddy does scoot right along but he gave-up some other nice
> qualities in the trade. Come to think of it, my Challenger might benefit
> greatly from faster air moving over that tiny tail.
>
> ..Where's my hacksaw?!
>
>
> -Mick Fine
> Tulsa, Oklahoma
>
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
> Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
>
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Someone asked about drain holes, here is what I found to work great.
I just made small holes, I found that when making all my holes in the fabric,
ie for the hinges/rivets etc, I sharpened a piece of welding rod, heated it in
a propane torch and it melted the fabric to a hole like butter. When I made
the drain holes, I used masking tape and taped 3/16 washers to the fabric and
used them as a pattern to burn perfect holes making drain holes. It makes them
all line up and look uniform.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank plumbing |
Group,
Yesterday I added the second 5 gallon tank to my Firestar II. I used
a different method than I had seen before. The front tank has a
non-vented cap and draws gas from the rear tank. I tested it, and it
worked great (so far). I started with 3.5 gallons in the front tank and
it dropped less than a half gallon as it drew all the gas from the rear
tank. I chose this method because of inproved CG with less than full
tanks. Most of the time I take off with 5 gallons. Also, I didn't want
to have to fill both tanks equally.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 28 hrs (22 to go before Oshkosh)
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ray abbruzzese <rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu> |
| Subject: | Bill Reisner of LEAF Crashed & Gone |
More sad news Thought you all should know.
>I received these two posts today >
>
>************ MESSAGE #1 ************
>
>>News Flash:
>>
>>Bill Reisner President of LEAF crashed Friday making an Imax film in a
>>Quicksilver 500GT.
>>Plane has been spotted from the air, but not reached by ground team yet.
>>Very little info.
>>
>>
>>Looks bad
>>Bob W
>>
>>
>
>
>
>************ MESSAGE #2 ************
>
>
>From: "Augusto Jouvin" <sportfly(at)gye.satnet.net>
>To: fly-ul(at)majordomo.hughes.net
>Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 16:36:29 +0000
>Subject: UL:Galapagos, sad
>Reply-To: ajouvin(at)ecua.net.ec
>
>Dear list:
>
>I have the sad duty of passing the bad news to you. The Air Force
>people just called me a while ago.
>
>The rescue helicopter found both occupants dead. Bill Raisner and
>camera man are dead..
>
>I have no further news, it is not clear to me if they died on impact,
>or if they survived but died later due to the terrible conditions.
>The Air Force guy that called me say that they were found inside the
>volcano, and it gets very hot there during the day, plus there is
>nothing around for miles and miles.
>
>The GT was originally prepared specially for this filming mission by
>LEAF, and Bill Raisner himself was the pilot, it was the second time
>for him flying in Galapagos.
>
>Wind conditions at time of year are very very bad, specially around
>those volcanos that they were trying to film. We are assuming they
>were caught by a very strong down draft inside the volcano. Remember
>Galapagos is out in the open sea and laminar winds really blow around
>there.
>
>Nothing more to say at this time, I'm just very sad. I meet Bill some
>time ago and I buy from LEAF all year round.
>
>Lets pray for them.
>
>Augusto
>
>Reply to : ajouvin(at)ecua.net.ec
>
>
See you in the sky !
Ray Abbruzzese E-Mail at: rabbruzz(at)unlinfo.unl.edu
Lincoln, Nebraska, USA
Standard Disclaimer: These are my opinions and you all know
about opinions (they are like butts: everybody has one). I
could be wrong and I probably am. Just please do not sue me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Drain Grommets? |
>The manual doesn't say anything about them, has anyone on the list put them
>in?
>If so where? I'm told that seaplane grommets are the best to use, comments,
>advise? Dennis, anyone?
>thanks
Geoff and all,
I would recommend that "no grommets" is the best way to go (unless you
specifically need the seaplane grommets for use on water). Use a pencil
type soldering iron and "carefully" burn one or more small holes into the
lowest point(s) on the underside of each covered part where any water (or
perhaps fuel) could collect. Has anyone out there accidentally overfilled
or spilled fuel inside your cockpit yet? Don't everyone speak at once. Not
only does it allow any condensed water to run out it allows the part to
breath when you fly up to altitude. The edges of the holes self seal so no
grommet support is really necessary. Careful you don't ruin your whole day
and burn through the upper surface.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (47.8 hrs)
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffler coatings |
>had
> had their muffs 'Cerma-chromed' (sp?). When the owner was there, I made a
> point to ask how much time had passed since the process, the highest
> guess was around 18 months and it looked as good as all the rest. I'm
> sold...
>
> Jim Baker and Cliff Stripling both have had it done, might ask them.
Both are HPC coated.....one branch in Oklahoma City. Though I do
understand they charged Cliff more than I was charged.......Hmmmm.
Mine has been done for 4 years now and looks the same as new.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffler coatings |
Jim and all,
>Though I do
>understand they charged Cliff more than I was charged.......Hmmmm.
Don't "wub" it in. You just caught them in a weak momment.
I, like Jim, like the results. My muffler parts were really starting to
rust. It was money well spent.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (47.8 hrs)
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cd of various shapes |
warning non-Kolb related comments below
Rut,
I do mean VTOL, as in hover out of ground effect, which is not easy. I
have just about given up on making it a "legal ultralight". weight is
not a problem in this case (unless I go with an aluminum skin) but power
and stall speed is. It will need a 503 minimum and although it is going
to have climb props (2 6 footers, one on each wing belt driven counter
rotating) it will still go too fast. And it has a very small wing so
poweroff "stall" is going to be high. Very low aspect ratio wings dont
really stall though, they keep on lifting until around 40 degres AOA, so
you might say it is stall proof. Since the FAA doesnt seem to care
these days about modest busting of 103, I might get away with calling it
a Ultralight. Basic idea is nothing new, just imerse the wing in
propwash and use the thrust from the props and the lift from the wing to
hover, nose up at around a 30 degree angle. controls remain as an
airplane at all flight conditions and you can go backwards by noseing up
a bit more, can go sideways by cross controlling and going into a slip,
with no forward velocity. It is a flying wing with very low aspect
ratio so trying to get decent cruise efficency is real tough, but it
will outrun most "ultralights" with a 503 due to the small wing (6X15=90
square foot, 2.5 aspect ratio). Also could be a 2 seater using a kolb
FSII type close seating and a jabiru or similar 80 HP engine.
Questions anyone?
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank plumbing |
John,
You are not telling us what you do to get the rest of the gas out of the
front tanks. Is this a secret you want to keep to yourself? I installed an
extra 6 Gall. tank in my MKIII behind the std tanks and connected them all
together with all tanks vented but with a fuel shut-off valve between the
front and back to be able to fly with the front tanks only.
Waiting,
Frank Reynen KolbMKIII@445 hrs
T
Group,
Yesterday I added the second 5 gallon tank to my Firestar II. I used
a different method than I had seen before. The front tank has a
non-vented cap and draws gas from the rear tank. I tested it, and it
worked great (so far). I started with 3.5 gallons in the front tank and
it dropped less than a half gallon as it drew all the gas from the rear
tank. I chose this method because of inproved CG with less than full
tanks. Most of the time I take off with 5 gallons. Also, I didn't want
to have to fill both tanks equally.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 28 hrs (22 to go before Oshkosh)
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Drain Grommets? |
>The manual doesn't say anything about them, has anyone on the list put them
>in?
Hey Gang:
I have used drain grommets, however, I discovered that a soldering gun or
pencil will do a neat job with far less hassle (KISS).
I burn the drain holes after shrinking the fabric.
Drain holes do two things:
a. allow circulation of air and drain condensation and moisture from inside.
b. allow mud dabbers access to places to build their nests (I try to make
small holes that might discourage mud dabbers from entering).
I try and visualize the lowest point in each rib bay that water will drain
to, in the 3 pt stance, and that is where I burn the hole, so as much
moisture as possible will drain out.
Again, fellows. Not recommending you do your plane that way, it is only
the way I have done mine, and it has worked well.
Good flying and building.
john h
PS: Haven't had much problem with mud dabbers in aircraft structure
because they love the 912 and stay busy trying to rebuild their houses as I
discover and destroy them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Contaminated fuel |
Howdy Gang:
Had a super trip to Lake Texoma Flyin, with one exception.
Cedar Mills Resort did everything in their power to make all us UL types
feel at home. They even had a 500 or 1000 gal fuel tank of 93 octane
equipped with a 12 V pump that would fill a 5 gal tank in a wink.
I got the first 10 gals out of a brand new tank, pump, filter, hose, and
nozzle assembly. After I poured the fuel in my MK III I noticed a little
rust scale in the vinyl hose I stick on the end of the tank nozzle to
transfer fuel. Didn't think too much about it because I have a good fuel
filter, and have never had any problem with fuel starvation before.
I flew a couple 2 or 3 hours at the flyin. My Brother Jim and I departed
Sunday morning for Addison AP, Tx, 60 miles south, loaded with all our gear
and our bodies. 30 minutes out I got a rough engine. Played with the
throttle, did a full power check in the air, and everything was just fine
again, for about 5 minutes. Then we lost all power, but the engine
continued to run at idle throttle setting. Just happened to have a 7,200
ft concrete runway off our right wing about a mile or two. Made good
forced landing, checked out aircraft, did a bunch of full power runups,
called to depart Frisco AP, and did for a couple hundred feet and 20 feet
altitude. Then, total engine failure. Back on the ground, light bulb went
off, and I pulled fuel filter. cartridge was totally plugged with
something I could not identify. Almost invisible, no large contamination
like rust scale or dirt. More like some kind of semivisible fungus????
Had a replacement cartridge and o rings on board. Cleaned and replaced,
full power check, engine felt better, idled better (I had noticed it didn't
idle as well that morning as normal), and we were on our way to Addison.
Flew the remainder of trip to Alabama with no problem, however, I will
drain fuel tank and check fuel filter before I fly again.
I think this was someone's way of letting me know it was time to wake up.
I had become a little complacent and was taking things for granted (getting
lazy with my aviating). It is very easy to happen when one has a system
that performs well for many, many hours. But it only takes a second to
ruin your day.
All in all, was a good day for experience and training in a real live
situation. This was my first and second, no second and third, engine out
in my plane. I had an engine out at Lakeland 4 years ago in the factory MK
III with a very important passenger on board. It was also a good forced
landing, thank God.
john h (in Alabama trying to stay awake and fly safe)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Drain Grommets? |
>soldering iron. (Careful! If you push hard, you will go through the next
>layer up, like the TOP surface of the aileron!)
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
Hey Old Poops:
You aren't guilty of that are you???
I haven't done that but I did drop a scrfew driver through the top wing
fabric and out the bottom fabric on my Firestar. Ouch!!!!!!!
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Drain Grommets? |
On Thu, 2 Jul 1998, john hauck wrote:
> I burn the drain holes after shrinking the fabric.
>
> Drain holes do two things:
>
> a. allow circulation of air and drain condensation and moisture from inside.
I don't think solder gun size holes would do that much for air
circulation, altho some is obviously better than none. I put 3"
inspection ports (with covers) in mine for that, as well as inspection.
But, Im planning on opening up some of the wing root rib covering for
stowage access anyway.
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Wing Drain Grommets? |
One thing to think about for those of us who store our planes folded, is
that the low point is the front of the wing when folded. this is where
the water will accumulate when stored for long periods of time.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Ransom [SMTP:ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu]
> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 1998 10:12 AM
> To: Kolb
> Subject: Re: Wing Drain Grommets?
>
> On Thu, 2 Jul 1998, john hauck wrote:
> > I burn the drain holes after shrinking the fabric.
> >
> > Drain holes do two things:
> >
> > a. allow circulation of air and drain condensation and moisture
> from inside.
>
> I don't think solder gun size holes would do that much for air
> circulation, altho some is obviously better than none. I put 3"
> inspection ports (with covers) in mine for that, as well as
> inspection.
> But, Im planning on opening up some of the wing root rib covering for
> stowage access anyway.
>
> -Ben
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
dwegner(at)isd.net
| Subject: | Re: Call of the clouds |
55-64,66-67,69,71-73,75-80
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Hey Adrio,
Thanks for your comment. I did take it the right way. The flight was
great and if my GPS did fail, I did have a compass on board to get me
back. I won't be making that kind of a flight in the near future since
the weather conditions don't usually allow such a flight like that. I
wished I had brought my camera along.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
writes:
>Interesting flight. I have one comment though and I am not
>"preaching" so please don't take it the wrong way. I work for Transport
Canada
>(the Canadian version of your FAA) and one of my responsibilities is
>GPS. I do not recommend trusting a non certified (TSO) GPS receiver
>into quasi IFR. These hand held units may not have RAIM (receiver
>autonomous integrity monitoring) which (very simplified) is designed to
use
>redundant satellite information to verify the validity of the computed
>position. With GPS being so accurate and repeatable we easily fall
>into trusting it too much. GPS is a great tool but even with five 9's
of
>availability you don't want to be on top when that 1 in a million
>comes up. Enough, I get off the soap box now (and have just justified
>reading Kolb mail at work for the next 100 years).
>
>But I agree the clouds look great from that perspective and I think it
>fulfills all our childhood dreams of flight when we get a chance to
>fly between the big puffy ones.
>
>Happy (and safe) flying,
>Adrio
>
>Ralph H Burlingame wrote:
>>
>> John,
>>
>> That must have been a neat flight. The highest I've been in the FS
>>is 7100 ASL. A few weeks ago, a friend and I were flying next to some
>>spectacular low-level clouds that were just forming. He was ahead of me
and >>the sight of those big puffy billows of cotton was awesome when
looking at its
>>perspective to the ground. On another occasion, I flew a distance of
>>18 mi, 1000' above the clouds waiting for the ground fog to breakup on
>>route. Starting out, it was clear and I flew over a wall of fog.
>>When my tank was down to half, I turned around and backtracked. It was
a
>>very wise decision because the fog that day at that location was 1/4 mi
>>on the ground. When I returned to my home field, it was still clear,
but
>>after taking the FS down and trailering it home, I had my headlights
on. I
>> would not have attempted such a flight without a GPS.
>>
>> Ralph Burlingame
>> Original FireStar 400 hrs
>>
>>>writes:
>> >Group,
>> >Well I couldn't resist the call of the clouds this evening. It
>> >was a blue sky, with a few cumulus clouds left. The sun was lighting
the
>> >clouds from the other side, making them look like they were glowing
>> >at the edges and tops. As I climbed toward cruise altitude, I
wondered
>> >what they looked like from the top. And I wondered, and I wondered. I
>> >just kept climbing until I was above them. 6,800 ASL. What a view! I
>> >flew over the top of one of the clouds to get a good look at it. They
>> >really look even better from the top. For those of you that don't fly
>> >high, you really should try it.
>> >John Jung
>> >Firestar II N6163J 16.4
>> >SE Wisconsin
>> >-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Drain Grommets? |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
John,
If you lived up here in God's country where it's cool in the summer, you
wouldn't have to worry about those 'ol mud dabbers. Come to think of it,
I'm not sure if I really know what they are? I'll just bet you are ready
for a trip to Wisconsin.
Ralph (northern boy) Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
writes:
>>The manual doesn't say anything about them, has anyone on the list
>put them
>>in?
>
>
>Hey Gang:
>
>I have used drain grommets, however, I discovered that a soldering gun
>or
>pencil will do a neat job with far less hassle (KISS).
>
>I burn the drain holes after shrinking the fabric.
>
>Drain holes do two things:
>
>a. allow circulation of air and drain condensation and moisture from
>inside.
>
>b. allow mud dabbers access to places to build their nests (I try to
>make
>small holes that might discourage mud dabbers from entering).
>
>I try and visualize the lowest point in each rib bay that water will
>drain to, in the 3 pt stance, and that is where I burn the hole, so as
much
>moisture as possible will drain out.
>
>Again, fellows. Not recommending you do your plane that way, it is
>only the way I have done mine, and it has worked well.
>
>Good flying and building.
>
>john h
>
>PS: Haven't had much problem with mud dabbers in aircraft structure
>because they love the 912 and stay busy trying to rebuild their houses
>as I discover and destroy them.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Contaminated fuel |
48,50,52-58,60,62-67,69-74
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
John,
Thanks for the story. That was an eye opener for all of us. Here I was
thinking those 912's are invincible! It wasn't the engines' fault, I
know, but it does make one think. I wonder where they got their gas? I'll
bet it was some old stuff that a farmer had stored up for awhile and
wanted to get rid of.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
writes:
>Howdy Gang:
>
>Had a super trip to Lake Texoma Flyin, with one exception.
>
>Cedar Mills Resort did everything in their power to make all us UL
>types feel at home. They even had a 500 or 1000 gal fuel tank of 93
octane
>equipped with a 12 V pump that would fill a 5 gal tank in a wink.
>
>I got the first 10 gals out of a brand new tank, pump, filter, hose,
>and nozzle assembly. After I poured the fuel in my MK III I noticed a
>little rust scale in the vinyl hose I stick on the end of the tank
nozzle to
>transfer fuel. Didn't think too much about it because I have a good
>fuel filter, and have never had any problem with fuel starvation before.
>
>I flew a couple 2 or 3 hours at the flyin. My Brother Jim and I
>departed Sunday morning for Addison AP, Tx, 60 miles south, loaded with
all >our gear and our bodies. 30 minutes out I got a rough engine.
Played with the
>throttle, did a full power check in the air, and everything was just
>fine again, for about 5 minutes. Then we lost all power, but the engine
>continued to run at idle throttle setting. Just happened to have a
>7,200 ft concrete runway off our right wing about a mile or two. Made
good
>forced landing, checked out aircraft, did a bunch of full power
>runups, called to depart Frisco AP, and did for a couple hundred feet
and 20
>feet altitude. Then, total engine failure. Back on the ground, light
bulb
>went off, and I pulled fuel filter. cartridge was totally plugged with
>something I could not identify. Almost invisible, no large
>contamination like rust scale or dirt. More like some kind of
semivisible
>fungus???? Had a replacement cartridge and o rings on board. Cleaned
and
>replaced, full power check, engine felt better, idled better (I had
noticed it
>didn't idle as well that morning as normal), and we were on our way to
Addison.
>
>Flew the remainder of trip to Alabama with no problem, however, I will
>drain fuel tank and check fuel filter before I fly again.
>
>I think this was someone's way of letting me know it was time to wake
>up. I had become a little complacent and was taking things for granted
>(getting lazy with my aviating). It is very easy to happen when one has
a
>system that performs well for many, many hours. But it only takes a
second
>to ruin your day.
>
>All in all, was a good day for experience and training in a real live
>situation. This was my first and second, no second and third, engine
>out in my plane. I had an engine out at Lakeland 4 years ago in the
>factory MK III with a very important passenger on board. It was also a
good
>forced
>landing, thank God.
>
>john h (in Alabama trying to stay awake and fly safe)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Drain Grommets? |
>If you lived up here in God's country where it's cool in the summer, you
>wouldn't have to worry about those 'ol mud dabbers. Come to think of it,
>I'm not sure if I really know what they are? I'll just bet you are ready
>for a trip to Wisconsin.
>
>Ralph (northern boy) Burlingame
Hey Ralph, being from the South, I'm not real familiar with the term "northern
boy". I think we call it something else :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>
>Not only that, but is't the Firestar II wing a clipped Mark II/III
>wing? I measured a Mark III wing and it looked like it would mount to
>a Firestar.
>
>>jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com wrote:
>>
>> What is the FireFly and SlingShort. They each have 22 foot
>wings.
>> Sounds kind of chopped to me from the longer FireStar wing.
Ok, Ok! I take it back, well sorta... :-)
True that different Kolb models have different wing spans but the
original message only mentioned a FS2 and a Challenger I (later revealed
to be a 'clipped-wing' Challenger I).
What I meant was that Kolb has never offered (to my knowledge) a
'clipped-wing' as an option for an existing model. Challenger does and it
definitely speeds things up. (There's a clipped single Challenger at my
field too, nobody can fly with him either!) I may be wrong but as far as
I know, Challenger just chops a couple feet off the wing, the rest of the
airframe is the same as that for the standard wing Challenger. Another
message mentioned that this particular Challenger had been damaged
(including wiped-out gear) in a landing accident. I wonder if the damage
would have been as bad if it had either a bigger wing (slower landing
speed) or a stronger undercarriage to go with the short wing.
Why do you suppose the Slingshot has such beafy looking gear legs? Could
be that it was designed to handle the harsher bumps that go with the
higher landing speed that goes with the shorter wing, but I'm just
guessing. I believe the Firefly legs are similar, only lighter. Hmmm...
Mainly, I just hated to hear that someone was so disappointed in the
performance of their Kolb that they would look at a Challenger with a
hungry eye! (So why can't I sell mine???)
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
OK- HERE's A BRAIN TEASER!
Has any one though of how to convert the Firestar to tri-gear?
Reason for dumb question. I'm tired of landing with 10-15 mph crosswind
of 45 to 90 degrees. There are indivual hangers upwind
with about a 10 foot space between them. This makes for great "burbles".
The tri-gear ultralights don't seem to have "too" much of a problem, but
for all 3 Kolb traildraggers it does get "interesting".
I can't move the runway, I can't change the wind, the nearest other
ultralight airport is about 80 miles away. I wanna keep my Kolb.....so
I can't seem to get rid of this tri-gear itch in the back of my mind.
It may never happen, but if anyone has any ideas, this could be a great
discussion topic.
I was kind of thinking about: using exsisting gear, to the axle. The axle
would be the attach point. This would also make it easier to do c/g.
Using chro-moly tubing attached at the nose(front two cross members)
coming down at an angle, attaching at the axle, and going straight back
another foot??? Or what ever for correct chord position of new axle. Nose
gear to be attached to front of "new landing gear" tube on either side.
This is only a concept , for discussion purposes--at this time. I know
I'll get flack that it will look ugly, cauge drag etc., but what I'm
looking for are ideas.
Maybe I can steal some kids tricycle and bolt it under my Firestar!
Bob ( crazy ) Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net> |
Hi Robert,
Very interesting - - I will want to follow THIS discussion.
Gerald (new to list and new to a Mark III and enjoying it!)
Alberta, Canada
Robert L Doebler wrote:
>
> OK- HERE's A BRAIN TEASER!
>
> Has any one though of how to convert the Firestar to tri-gear?
>
> Reason for dumb question. I'm tired of landing with 10-15 mph crosswind
> of 45 to 90 degrees. There are indivual hangers upwind
> with about a 10 foot space between them. This makes for great "burbles".
> The tri-gear ultralights don't seem to have "too" much of a problem, but
> for all 3 Kolb traildraggers it does get "interesting".
> I can't move the runway, I can't change the wind, the nearest other
> ultralight airport is about 80 miles away. I wanna keep my Kolb.....so
> I can't seem to get rid of this tri-gear itch in the back of my mind.
>
> It may never happen, but if anyone has any ideas, this could be a great
> discussion topic.
>
> I was kind of thinking about: using exsisting gear, to the axle. The axle
> would be the attach point. This would also make it easier to do c/g.
> Using chro-moly tubing attached at the nose(front two cross members)
> coming down at an angle, attaching at the axle, and going straight back
> another foot??? Or what ever for correct chord position of new axle. Nose
> gear to be attached to front of "new landing gear" tube on either side.
> This is only a concept , for discussion purposes--at this time. I know
> I'll get flack that it will look ugly, cauge drag etc., but what I'm
> looking for are ideas.
>
> Maybe I can steal some kids tricycle and bolt it under my Firestar!
> Bob ( crazy ) Doebler
>
> _____________________________________________________________________
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
>Why do you suppose the Slingshot has such beafy looking gear legs? Could
>be that it was designed to handle the harsher bumps that go with the
>higher landing speed that goes with the shorter wing, but I'm just
>guessing. I believe the Firefly legs are similar, only lighter. Hmmm...
I can confirm that the SS gear is as strong as it looks. Our field is really
rough in some places, and I land the plane very hot most of the time. Even at
that, I don't think I'm stressing the gear too much.
>Mainly, I just hated to hear that someone was so disappointed in the
>performance of their Kolb that they would look at a Challenger with a
>hungry eye! (So why can't I sell mine???)
I was somewhat disturbed at the low price of your plane. Aren't Challengers at
least as expensive as the Kolbs to build? As for performance, the ThunderGull
is a hot rod. A net friend of mine had a Gull with a 503 and a C-152. His "UL"
Gull would easily outrun the Cessna. BTW- he just sold the Gull for more than
the $15k I'm asking for the SS.
Russell Duffy
Navarre, FL
SlingShot SS-003, N8754K (for sale)
RV-8A, 80587 (wings)
rad(at)pcola.gulf.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | mud dobber story |
Funny story, after receiving my 503 from kolb, there are holes in the side of
the crank case designed for the 583 mounting of a radiator. Well I explained
these crazy insects to Kolb (mud dobbers) and how they like to fill any open
holes on any open part of anything, and after explaining these big holes in
the side of my case of my new expensive 503 engine, Kolb sent me these
machined plugs that are designed to attach the radiator on the 582, or on my
503 make a great plug for these open holes.
I am not from the south and never had to deal with mud dobbers before becoming
involved in aviation, and I think when I described these insects to the parts
department at kolb he thought I was crazy, but he sent me that parts anyways
fixing the problem, again proving how much I like Kolb.
So I bet you guys else where are thinking to yourself, what the heck is a mud
dobber?
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Bob,
I have flown 5 different tri-gear ultralights, and I take any
Firestar or Mark II or Mark III in turbulent crosswind landings. Are you
sure that a tri-gear will help? Some dual time with a good instructor
would be a lot cheaper. My instructor (for private) wouldn't let me solo
until I had mastered crosswing landings in a Cessna. I would take a Kolb
over the Cessna. Those Cessnas sure have a strong landing gear, though.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 21.5 hrs (3.5 today)
SE Wisconsin
>
>Robert L Doebler wrote:
>
> OK- HERE's A BRAIN TEASER!
>
> Has any one though of how to convert the Firestar to tri-gear?
>
> Reason for dumb question. I'm tired of landing with 10-15 mph crosswind
> of 45 to 90 degrees. There are indivual hangers upwind
> with about a 10 foot space between them. This makes for great "burbles".
> The tri-gear ultralights don't seem to have "too" much of a problem, but
> for all 3 Kolb traildraggers it does get "interesting".
snip...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank plumbing |
Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com wrote:
>
> John,
> You are not telling us what you do to get the rest of the gas out of the
> front tanks. Is this a secret you want to keep to yourself? I installed an
> extra 6 Gall. tank in my MKIII behind the std tanks and connected them all
> together with all tanks vented but with a fuel shut-off valve between the
> front and back to be able to fly with the front tanks only.
>
> Waiting,
>
> Frank Reynen KolbMKIII@445 hrs
Frank,
The fuel pump takes fuel from the front tank the same as it did with
only one tank. The front tank can't get any air until it sucks all the
gas out of the rear, then it vents throught the rear tank.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J (need 18.5 more hrs before Oshkosh)
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
>until I had mastered crosswing landings in a Cessna. I would take a Kolb
>over the Cessna. Those Cessnas sure have a strong landing gear, though.
>John Jung
Can't agree John. In a crosswind landing, I'd take the average Cessna or Piper
over the SS in a heartbeat. Just plop it on and forget about it. I've had no
serious scares with the SS, but I wouldn't consider flying it on windy days
where I would fly tri-gear spam without hesitation.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
(InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank plumbing |
John,
Are you using just the diaphragm pump? I wonder how much stress does
sucking the fuel out of the rear tank puts on the pump?
I've got the "T" between the two tanks, is this right?
Geoff Thistlethwaite
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Date: Thursday, July 02, 1998 10:26 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Fuel tank plumbing
>Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com wrote:
>>
>> John,
>> You are not telling us what you do to get the rest of the gas out of the
>> front tanks. Is this a secret you want to keep to yourself? I installed
an
>> extra 6 Gall. tank in my MKIII behind the std tanks and connected them
all
>> together with all tanks vented but with a fuel shut-off valve between the
>> front and back to be able to fly with the front tanks only.
>>
>> Waiting,
>>
>> Frank Reynen KolbMKIII@445 hrs
>Frank,
> The fuel pump takes fuel from the front tank the same as it did with
>only one tank. The front tank can't get any air until it sucks all the
>gas out of the rear, then it vents throught the rear tank.
>John Jung
>Firestar II N6163J (need 18.5 more hrs before Oshkosh)
>SE Wisconsin
>-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
John H , I think you're missing the point here. The discussion is not
about tailwheel training. I personally have about 80 hours in sailplanes
and they have only one wheel.
What I'd like to hear are ideas, questions, and discussions on the
possibility of converting to tri-gear. Dennis, are you interested in
this?
It might open up sales to those who might be shy about "taildraggers"
Bob Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
(InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Nose gear on a Kolb? Y'all are are making me ill. One of the main criteria
that the Kolb fit when I was doing my research on the plane I wanted was it
had to be a taildragger. When I made up my wish list of what I wanted Kolb
fit perfectly. I agree with John H. If you're having trouble find a good
tailwheel instructor. Know that billboard advertisement for Jaegermiester
where the guy just took a shot, face all wrinkled up in disgust that's what
the thought does to me. ;)
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L Doebler <bobdoebler(at)juno.com>
Date: Friday, July 03, 1998 1:48 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: tri-gear
>John H , I think you're missing the point here. The discussion is not
>about tailwheel training. I personally have about 80 hours in sailplanes
>and they have only one wheel.
>What I'd like to hear are ideas, questions, and discussions on the
>possibility of converting to tri-gear. Dennis, are you interested in
>this?
>It might open up sales to those who might be shy about "taildraggers"
>
>Bob Doebler
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
(InterMail v03.02.03 118 118 102) with SMTP
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tri-gear ....on second thought |
Put it on the Laser!
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L Doebler <bobdoebler(at)juno.com>
Date: Friday, July 03, 1998 1:48 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: tri-gear
>John H , I think you're missing the point here. The discussion is not
>about tailwheel training. I personally have about 80 hours in sailplanes
>and they have only one wheel.
>What I'd like to hear are ideas, questions, and discussions on the
>possibility of converting to tri-gear. Dennis, are you interested in
>this?
>It might open up sales to those who might be shy about "taildraggers"
>
>Bob Doebler
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
Kolbs have a more forgiving gear geometry then most taildraggers, so
your would have t move the main gear back less then on most planes.
Typically you wnat the gear to be 18 degrees angle from the cg (rule of
thumb). If you did this you might end up with a plane that sat on its
tail untill you got in it and then it would plop forward on the nose
gear. I thin it would work better to add the new tube behind the
current gear since thats the direction your heading. If you have
somebody who can forge chromoly you might be able to just put a cranked
gear leg in the existing socket, but it would put a large torque load on
the socket. The Explorer has wishbone shaped gear, (see this months
sport aviation) that could work. As far as nose gear goes just watch
out for shimmy, that can be real nasty.
TOpher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Air bubbles in fuel lines |
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 1998 22:58:23 -0600
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Air bubbles in fuel lines
Cliff and others with bubbles in gas lines,
I use stainless steel screw type clamps on all fuel lines (except
primer) and they don't let air in at all. I suggest that if you have air
bubbles in your fuel lines, try good "hardware store clamps" and see if
the bubbles don't go away.
John Jung
>
>Cliff and Carolyn Stripling wrote:
>
snip... What with all the talk about bubbles in the fuel
> lines (and I have some also) I would think about that possibility.
snip...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank plumbing |
Geoff,
Yes, I am using just the stock pump. At worst condition (when the
rear tank is almost empty), it has to lift the fuel about 15" higher
than originally. Yes the "T" is the standard method. I just wanted to
have the more forward CG.
John Jung
>
>Geoff Thistlethwaite wrote:
>
> John,
> Are you using just the diaphragm pump? I wonder how much stress does
> sucking the fuel out of the rear tank puts on the pump?
> I've got the "T" between the two tanks, is this right?
> Geoff Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: tri-gear (just say no) |
On Thu, 2 Jul 1998, Robert L Doebler wrote:
> Has any one though of how to convert the Firestar to tri-gear?
I agree with Geoff "...you're making me ill". Next thing, you'll
be wanting to change the stick out for a yoke. Bleccch!!
Xwind landings in a KOlb with a long tail ...not bad IMO. Just
keep the upwind wing down and pay attention, gives you something to
play with. :) If a runway gets a really strong a Xwind, isn't
there a dirt road nearby that will suffice? One other little
tip, altho you may already know it, keep a little power during and
after touchdown -- just a little more air over the rudder may help.
One of the advantages of a taildragger is the long wheelbase. You don't
get bounced as badly taxiing over rough fields. With the Kolb's STOL
characteristic, changing to tri-gear would be a split personality.
That's one practical reason, altho the aesthetic ones are as
important to me. But, I know, different strokes/different folks.
Ben 'taildraggers forever' Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | FS II seat modifications? |
Group,
I believe that I have discovered the most disagreeable feature of the
Firestar II. It's the seat. Yesterday I logged 3.5 hours but it was a
"pain in the butt". (I am trying to get 40 hours flown off so that I can
fly into Oshkosh.) I have the .032 aluminum on the seat bottom with a
thick soft foam pad on it. It's only good for 5 gallons of fuel, about 2
hours. After that I am very uncomfortable. I did not have this problem
in my original Firestar. Has anyone else been dissatisfied with the FSII
seat, and what have you done to solve it? I have already added lumbar
support to the backrest and it helps my back. I suspect that the seat is
at too flat of an angle for me. (I am 6' tall) I think that I need a
seat with more angle and some shape but it can't be too thick because I
don't have much headroom. It can't go further forward because the stick
is in the way. There must be someone that has figured this out already.
What did you do and how well did it work?
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 21.5 hrs
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS II seat modifications? |
I use my FS2 as a single seater so I welded up a higher seat back with head
rest that pins into structure I added fwd of the wing carry thru, this allows
me to vary the backrest angle. this helped but my butt still suffered after a
tankful so I splurged and used all 3 densities of 1 inch thick temperfoam from
Wicks as a seat cushion, its not an armchair but its a lot better and I do
not start squirming for at least 2 hours.
Dick Cole
FS2.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
John H:
sorry, I guess I addressed comments to the wrong guy.
Ben:
Yes there are a few dirt roads. They are all on commercial farms- locked
gates. Our u/l field parallels a general aviation runway,by about 300
feet. This is in class D airspace, so any off runway landing; a form must
be filled out and submitted to the u/l club , FAA tower, and airport/town
authorities. Lots of fun huh!
To all:
Like I said earlier, I'm not trying to discuss the right or wrong of
taildragger vs tri-gear, the ability to fly one or the other, or which
one you hate, or love. What I'm looking for are ideas. Thanks to all who
have responded so far to my enquiry.
Bob ( I love taildraggers & Tri-gear) Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
You gotta be kidding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The very
idea is repulsive to me!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bill Griffin
2 planes, 2 tail wheels
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb construction query |
I'm replacing the fiberglass tailwheel rod on my Firestar with the
aluminum rod upgrade. But there were no suggestions sent with it - just
the rod - on how best to do this.
If you have done it, or built a later Firestar, what size bolt did you
use on each end, and precisely where did you drill the hole for the
bolts?
Any pertinent answers to this relatively simple question will be
appreciated. I want to be sure I do it exactly right since it's not
only the tailwheel, but also MY TAIL, which will be at risk!
Thanks, and Happy Fourth of July to one and all!
-KW
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
I just got my 912 today.....what a beast !!!!! The hardware and accessories
from Kolb are first rate.
Are there any helpful hints on installation? (dues and don'ts)....As I do not
have assembly instructions on how to mount the engine to the airframe, I
would like to avoid common problems you all have run into.
Dazed and confused,
Rich Bragassa
Mark lll 85% finished
Miami, Fl.
P.S. Going on vacation to Toronto Canada, I'll be answering my e-mail from
there...
I hope..... Any neat UL places in the area?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffler coatings |
> >Though I do
> >understand they charged Cliff more than I was charged.......Hmmmm.
>
> Don't "wub" it in. You just caught them in a weak momment.
>
> I, like Jim, like the results. My muffler parts were really starting to
> rust. It was money well spent.
Rats! Cliff has the last laugh.
Looked closely at the muffler today and noticed two cracks in the
divergent header just after the mounting ball. The Hirth muffler
header is made of two steel stampings and welded with the seam on the
outside. The seam was located vertically and the cracks are on each
side of the seams, directly opposite each other, and follow the curve
of the "tubing". I don't yet understand the failure mode but have a
"gut feeling" fix in mind. Just have to play with different
scenarios.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: STRAIGHT ANGLE IRON??? |
>YES!!! Steel is generally straighter than a 2X4 or most other materials...
but DON'T assume that just because it was once iron ore it is straight!! I'm
sure everyone knows this but I felt it wouldn't hurt to repeat...
We are building airplanes here not watches.The degree of accuracy
required is well within the scope of eyeballed straight steel. Anyhow after
your first hard landing all the work you did on alignment is wasted.I may be
a crude hick but I think sometimes people go overboard on perfection and
lose sight of the goal to get a good flying machine.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
edu>
>I agree with Geoff "...you're making me ill". Next thing, you'll
>be wanting to change the stick out for a yoke. Bleccch!!
Devil's advocate?? Maybe?? :)
Be that as it may, let's not forget that the highest scoring "Ace" in WW2
was Richard Bong. He flew the Locheed P-38 "Lighning" which just happened
to have NOT sticks, but a WHEEL. :) My Swift has a wheel, and flys just
fine, as does my Kolb UltraStar fly fine with a stick. The fighters I flew
for a number of years for the Navy had sticks, although other carrier based
aircraft used wheels. I guess what I'm saying, is that it's not the sticks
or the wheels that make the airplane anymore than whether it's tricycle
gear or conventional gear (like the F-51 "Mustang"). It's the pilot! :)
Skip
>Xwind landings in a KOlb with a long tail ...not bad IMO. Just
>keep the upwind wing down and pay attention, gives you something to
>play with. :) If a runway gets a really strong a Xwind, isn't
>there a dirt road nearby that will suffice? One other little
>tip, altho you may already know it, keep a little power during and
>after touchdown -- just a little more air over the rudder may help.
>
>One of the advantages of a taildragger is the long wheelbase. You don't
>get bounced as badly taxiing over rough fields. With the Kolb's STOL
>characteristic, changing to tri-gear would be a split personality.
>That's one practical reason, altho the aesthetic ones are as
>important to me. But, I know, different strokes/different folks.
>
>Ben 'taildraggers forever' Ransom
>-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Nosewheels and Bubbles |
On nosewheels: for a little while my MKIII was both a nose and
taildragger. Because of the shortness of my strip, some of the early flights
were made with a non-steerable nosegear bolted on in place of the front
skid. As you all know, a Kolb at full throttle and locked brakes will "tump
over" as we rednecks say, so I put a nose wheel on, went to the end of the
strip, locked the brakes, and eased the throttle in until it rocked up on
the nose wheel. Then full throttle, then release the brakes. Yes it does get
off quicker, but not enough to compensate for being dog-ugly.
Obviously it was useless when landing (at least so far...), so I
took it off.
Noticed the post on air bubbles in the fuel lines: for 13 years,
instead of hose clamps, I have used safety wire wrapped twice around the
fuel line and fitting and then twirled to tighten. I have never found it
possible to cut CPS urethane fuel line with safety wire, but you can cut
through inferior types, so if you decide to try this, do several test runs
on what ever you are using and satisfy yourself that the wire will ALWAYS
break before the tubing starts to cut. Also, it doesn't need to be too
tight, it just needs to not leak gas out, or air in.
Also, cut the twirled wire off about 1/2' from the wrap, and then
bend it over with needle noses back toward the hose, or you will eventually
find occasion to stick the cut end into yourself.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
<613845B3BA2BD111B80A00805F19A12B7C881D@xch-sbc-03>
I was told by someone (forget who) that the original owner of my UltraStar
(built ~1984) put it through similar rigors. It's tempting, but I know I
lack the training, mostly, and feel like the plane could be getting too old
for that now.
A couple thousand more feet might have been a good idea too!!!!!!!
Just one other comment: just because ultralights don't have as many laws to
follow as the GA craft doesn't mean the laws of nature aren't just as well
enforced for us. Fly smart, don't become a statistic.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | kw93(at)wcoil.com: Kolb construction query |
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
From: kw93(at)wcoil.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb construction query
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 1998 16:34:35 -0700
KW wrote:
I'm replacing the fiberglass tailwheel rod on my Firestar with the
aluminum rod upgrade. But there were no suggestions sent with it - just
the rod - on how best to do this.
KW
per Kolb update letter Jan 97, page4 it says Editor's note: The correct
dimension is 4" in from the end of the tube. That's for the forward end
of the aluminum tailwheel rod. I think I used an AN4-12A there and at
the castor end.
But if in doubt, call Dennis S. at Kolb.
Bob Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Lift strut attach bolt in main wing spar MKIII |
How many of you installed this bolt "nut down"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | quick-adjust ivo |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Kolber's,
I have the quick-adjust IVO prop on my 377 Rotax. Over time I've noticed
the top end RPM's gradually creep up. I had it adjusted for 6100rpm on
climbout. After a year, it's at 6500. I re-adjusted it today for more
pitch and noticed more power at lower RPM's. Since I cruise at 5500rpm,
it's preferable to have the power at that setting. The locknut on the
quick-adjust is very tight, so it's unlikely this is the problem. Has
anyone else noticed this?
I had a nice 4th of July flight today. The weather here (Minneapolis) is
absolutely perfect, a high of 80 and sunny all day with no storms. I blew
out the seafoam this morning and I can hear the rings singing against the
cylinder walls, just like a new engine. The prop has more compression to
turn against than before the treatment. I'm impressed.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FSI/II Shoulder Harnes |
Thanks to all those who responded to my question about installing a double
strap shoulder harness into a FS I/II model. I've passed the info on to my
new friend. He is nearing completion. Has the engine installed and is now
connecting the instruments.
Thanks again for your input.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
<< What ever you do, DON'T allow any TOE-IN. This may be fine for an
automobile but NOT for a tail dragging airplane! A little toe-out may be
acceptable but it is best to have none. Let's look at landing where one
wheel makes contact before the other. With toe-in the plane will want to
turn towards the wheel that is up making the situation worse! With toe-out
the plane would tend to turn away from the raised wheel causing it to make
contact with the ground a bit more abrupt.
A toe-in condition will make any tendency towards ground-looping worse.
Howard G. Penny
RTP, NC
penny(at)rtp.ericsson.se >>
I must agree, as I just put brakes on my Firestar KX and found too much toe in
causing my first landing to be a surprise as I was heavier on one wheel (toed
in) which veered me towards the Forest just off to the left....my first
response was to give some right aileron and rudder (but not much) which caused
"by George" to veer to the left even more (due to the right aileron putting
More weight on the RIGHT (toed in) wheel. Needless to say, my surprise was met
with some really CLOSE trees whizzing by!!! Til I got smart enough in a VERY
SHORT classroom educational period to neutralize the ailerons and just go with
the rudder!!! Good thing I'm almost old and not REALLY old and can still learn
fast enough (like in 2 seconds, for instance)!!!
It was my first landing since installing my new brakes (which I forgot to
use)....or didn't have time to ....or something. I'm developing a quasi-fear
of "firsts"as I grow older and my mental mode switching speeds diminish.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: quick-adjust ivo |
Group,
I don't have an answer for Ralph, but I would like to add another
quick adjust IVO question. Mine is adjusted so that there is little or
no tension with the adjuster. It's in the middle. What I notice is that
I get more rpm change at cruise than I have ever noticed on any other
engine/prop combination. If I slightly climb, I loose a lot of rpms and
if I slightly dive, the rpms go way up. It is difficult to keep anything
close to steady rpm and altitude. I suspect that this is due to the prop
changing pitch within the adjustment "slop" or because of the lack of
tension or both. Has anyone else experienced this with their IVO? If so
was it a quick adjust? What did you do to solve it? Other that this one
problem, I like the IVO. It is smooth and efficient.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 23.7 hrs
SE Wisconsin
>
>Ralph H Burlingame wrote:
>
> Kolber's,
>
> I have the quick-adjust IVO prop on my 377 Rotax. Over time I've noticed
> the top end RPM's gradually creep up. I had it adjusted for 6100rpm on
> climbout. After a year, it's at 6500. I re-adjusted it today for more
> pitch and noticed more power at lower RPM's. Since I cruise at 5500rpm,
> it's preferable to have the power at that setting. The locknut on the
> quick-adjust is very tight, so it's unlikely this is the problem. Has
> anyone else noticed this?
snip...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henry Wortman <hwortman(at)datasys.net> |
I know you guys don't like inverted engines but after reading Ralphs
post about seafoam I decided to give it a whirl.
I had my muffler off to get it painted so I put the seafoam through the
exhaust ports. By putting about 16cc in each cylinder I was able to
create a hydraulic lock when turning the engine over. By holding
pressure the seafoam was forced past the rings and then sucked back on
the downstroke. I only let mine soak about 30 hours and then drained and
engine ran for about 30 minutes. Removing the exhaust manifold revealed
that nearly all of the carbon was gone. There was still a small amount
around the sparkplugs and this probably would have been removed if I had
let the seafoam soak for several days, as Ralf Burlingame suggested,
instead of only a day and a half. BTW the rings were free before the
treatment and afterwards also. Much cleaner!!
The snooping challenger driver: Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: quick-adjust ivo |
>Group,
> I don't have an answer for Ralph, but I would like to add another
>quick adjust IVO question. Mine is adjusted so that there is little or
>no tension with the adjuster. It's in the middle. What I notice is that
John and Group:
I don't know about IVO props, even though I have flown a few hours over the
years flying Kolb factory aircraft at the factory, Lakeland, and Oshkosh.
However, what you describe is the characteristics of a 2-stroke engine.
a. Push the nose over and it will pick up a lot of rpm. Watch the egt and
it will tell you that rpm has increased because the engine is unloaded.
The eng is breathing more, leaning out, and the egt is climbing.
b. Pull back on the stick, rpms decrease, the eng loads up, is not
breathing as much, getting richer mixture, egt is dropping.
I believe you will find the same characteristics with any prop, not
necessarily an IVO.
I have found that 2-stroke engs are a horse of a different color. I have
also discovered that 4-stroke engs increase and decrease rpm at a much less
amount when loaded and unloaded.
I think also if you are flying near the "on the pipe" rpm, you will get
much more exaggerated rpm fluctuation as it comes on and off the pipe.
Just my thoughts,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: quick-adjust ivo |
>>Group,
>> I don't have an answer for Ralph, but I would like to add another
>>quick adjust IVO question. Mine is adjusted so that there is little or
>>no tension with the adjuster. It's in the middle. What I notice is that
>
>
>John and Group:
>
>I don't know about IVO props, even though I have flown a few hours over the
>years flying Kolb factory aircraft at the factory, Lakeland, and Oshkosh.
>However, what you describe is the characteristics of a 2-stroke engine.
It sounded like more than just the normal pitch up pitch down change in RPM.
Try keeping a bit of tension on the adjusting screw.There may be enough
backlash in your prop adjustment to give a varied pitch adjustment.I know
nothing about IVO but in most machines there is always a backlash that
should be dealt with.Usually this means when adjusting don't back up a
little,back up a lot and then bring it back up to where you want it without
going over otherwise things can move around and arn't as accurate.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: quick-adjust ivo |
<3.0.1.32.19980705115528.007e2160(at)pop.mindspring.com>
>What does "on the pipe" mean?
>Gerald
Gerald:
Best way I can explain "on the pipe" is to compare the exhaust system or
expansion chamber to the cam shaft on a 4-stroke. 2-strokes have no
valves, use intake and exhaust port timing and and exhaust pulses to tune
to eng for optimum power. Two strokes have a power band same as 4-strokes
only more ampliphied and narrower. The Rotax gets "on the pipe" at 5400 to
5500 rpm. Running in this rpm range will make the eng hunt and search as
it is in a tuned transition area of the power band. In plain language:
The eng performs much better above aprx 5500 rpm. My experience with
2-stroke Rotax engs proved to be 5800 to 6200 rpm for best performance,
cruise, fuel consumption, and life of the eng. My Firestar also liked 5800
for cruise, and so did I. However, I didn't concern myself too much with
fuel consumption. Two-strokes like a lot of fuel to keep them cool and
survive.
john h
PS: The 582 and 618 have a rotary valve for valve timing.
________________________________________________________________________________
dwegner(at)isd.net
| Subject: | Re: quick-adjust ivo |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
writes:
>The eng performs much better above aprx 5500 rpm. My experience with
>2-stroke Rotax engs proved to be 5800 to 6200 rpm for best
>performance, cruise, fuel consumption, and life of the eng. My Firestar
also >liked 5800 for cruise, and so did I.
>john h
John,
I understand the ivo prop, due to its flex, will have slightly less pitch
on takeoff and at high rpm's than at cruise rpm where it will give a
little more pitch. Cruising at high rpm's above 5500 not only defeats the
purpose of this prop but will consume more fuel.
I noticed by "tuning" the ivo prop in this "on the pipe" sweet spot gives
better performance in the 5500rpm band. Before adjustment, I cruised
5900rpm at 55mph. I can now have the same cruise at 5500rpm. By giving it
more pitch, I have shifted the power band lower, which is what you want
to do.
I still cannot explain why my top rpm's increased over time unless it was
like Woody suggested: the play in the ivo prop caused the shift.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 377 Rotax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: quick-adjust ivo |
<3.0.1.32.19980705182945.007e0ca0(at)pop.mindspring.com>
>
>John,
>
>I understand the ivo prop, due to its flex, will have slightly less pitch
>on takeoff and at high rpm's than at cruise rpm where it will give a
>little more pitch. Cruising at high rpm's above 5500 not only defeats the
>purpose of this prop but will consume more fuel.
>
>I noticed by "tuning" the ivo prop in this "on the pipe" sweet spot gives
>better performance in the 5500rpm band. Before adjustment, I cruised
>5900rpm at 55mph. I can now have the same cruise at 5500rpm. By giving it
>more pitch, I have shifted the power band lower, which is what you want
>to do.
Well Pardner:
There's a lot I do not understand about 2-stroke performance and engines,
but I do not think you can change the power band by loading the engine. I
believe you would have to change port timing, size, and geometry of the
expansion chamber. But if you think you have changed the power band,
that's alright with me.
I still tune for WOT, straight and level flight, bump the red line or a tad
lower than red line. I find that if I do, the standard jetting of the
Rotax 2-cycle eng will put the egt right where it belongs on TO/WOT and at
cruise 5800 to 6200 rpm.
Respectfully submitted,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: quick-adjust ivo |
I run a 503 dual carb with a 3 blade IVO on a FS2 . I have found that my best
prop pitch giving about 6400 rpm on take off puts the prop in the slack range
of the adjustment. I solved the problem by adding a little more pitch giving
me 6200-or so on take off. Several others have added pitch to give just 6000
on take off and there does not appear to be any difference in performance. I
think that 5000 rpm on the 503 is probably just at the bottom of the best
torque range or pipe tuning and the engine may be more susceptible to
variations than if you cruised a bit higher say 52-5300
Dick C StLouis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed ANR headsets -vs- Hush-a-Com |
I just purchased a pair of LightSPEED's 20K ANR headsets to check them
against my year-old Hush-a-coms.
I used my Sigtronics GA Intercom (since the Hush-a-coms use "Helicopter"
jacks or something...)
I found the 20Ks to be somewhat better. They blocked low frequency noise
pretty well, and it was somewhat easier to hear my 9 year old son, Stuart.
We were flying my Mark 3 with a 912 and no enclosure. We had the
photography half-door on with the Hush-a-coms, and the full door for the
10Ks, so the Hush-a-coms had a slight disadvantage.
Stuart rated the Hush-a-coms a 4 on a scale of 1 to 10, and the 20Ks an 8.
I would rate the Hush-a-coms a 5 and the 10Ks a 7.
I bought the Lightspeeds through Avionics West, where they're now on special
through http://www.avweb.com/ for $400 each. The whole setup for the
Hush-a-coms - both headsets and the intercom, were under $400
(http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/spruce/pages.cgi/page386? ) Its not a easy
call on whether the extra money for Lightspeeds was worth it...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift strut attach bolt in main wing spar MKIII |
My wing strut attach bolts are nuts down, as I feel that they should be
for ability to visually check them.
topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FS II seat modifications? |
John
Try using the firmest foam you can, that will feel much more comfortable
then soft foam. Layers also work well: real firm foam, then soft foam
and then som fiberfill. Temperfoam is real comfy but I dont know about
spending 100 bucks on a seat cushon.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lift strut attach bolt in main wing spar MKIII |
I installed the bolt nut down, which I recognise is a deviation from normal
practice. Bit I have it protruding through the covering so I can inspect it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: quick-adjust ivo |
> 2-stroke Rotax engs proved to be 5800 to 6200 rpm for best performance,
> cruise, fuel consumption, and life of the eng. My Firestar also liked 5800
> for cruise, and so did I. However, I didn't concern myself too much with
At first I cruised my 447SC FS at 4800-4900rpm. I just thought it seemed
like a good idea to be at lower rpms -- less stress on the engine, etc
type of thinking. I got 55mph out of that. In the last 25 hours or
so, I pulled out all stops and moved cruise upto 5000 as it seemed some
vibrations were less there. I sit here and scratch a little before I'm
okay with the idea that 5800+ might be better for the engine. I know fuel
consumption isn't the main deal either, but even the Rotax charts show
it always higher with increased rpm. If it were a 4-stroke, I'd fuss,
but as a 2-stroke, by now I'm inclined to believe almost anything. :-/
I've pitched my Warp prop to do ~65-6600 static, 6200 on WOT max climb.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed ANR headsets -vs- Hush-a-Com |
Scott,
Thanks for providing the evaluation of ANR headsets. This is the kind
of information that I was hoping for. I am still putting off spending
money on a radio and headsets as I collect more information.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 25.9 hrs
SE Wisconsin
>
>Scott Bentley wrote:
>
> I just purchased a pair of LightSPEED's 20K ANR headsets to check them
> against my year-old Hush-a-coms.
>
> I used my Sigtronics GA Intercom (since the Hush-a-coms use "Helicopter"
> jacks or something...)
>
> I found the 20Ks to be somewhat better. They blocked low frequency noise
> pretty well, and it was somewhat easier to hear my 9 year old son, Stuart.
> We were flying my Mark 3 with a 912 and no enclosure. We had the
> photography half-door on with the Hush-a-coms, and the full door for the
> 10Ks, so the Hush-a-coms had a slight disadvantage.
>
> Stuart rated the Hush-a-coms a 4 on a scale of 1 to 10, and the 20Ks an 8.
> I would rate the Hush-a-coms a 5 and the 10Ks a 7.
>
> I bought the Lightspeeds through Avionics West, where they're now on special
> through http://www.avweb.com/ for $400 each. The whole setup for the
> Hush-a-coms - both headsets and the intercom, were under $400
> (http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/spruce/pages.cgi/page386? ) Its not a easy
> call on whether the extra money for Lightspeeds was worth it...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FLYING ON THE FAR SIDE |
Charlie Russel has done some extraordinary flying in his Kolb Mark-III in
eastern Russia. Experimenter had a nice article on Charlie's exploits - I
think in the past year or so. Charlie has done some very real pioneering in
ultralight flying. Enjoy!
Charlie sent in a report from Russia that was all
>about his Kolb. I thought you folks might like it...
>
>http://www.norquay.com/grizzlies/July/3/index.html
>
>From Charlie:
>
>>When Maureen and I first got the idea to go to Kamchatka to do a study
>about the possibility of learning to live with bears, it never
>occurred to me that there would the slimmest chance of being able to
>take my <http://www.kolbaircraft.com/>Kolb airplane and use it in
>Russia, even though I had originally built it for use in the
>wilderness and had, at the time, three years of unsupported flying
>experience, including the <../../Books/SpiritBearBook.html>Spirit Bear
>project of Princess Royal Island. It was built in 1993. I had two
>difficult projects under my belt but flying in Russia seemed beyond
>any possibility that I could hope for. But it did happen and so far,
>touch wood, it's been very successful. I won't go into a lot of detail
>of what made it happen, because I do not know all the details myself,
>but I do know that there was a lot of luck involved and it also
>entailed bringing another Kolb Mark III kit as payment for our
>privileges of living in this incredible preserve for several years. So
>there are two of these aircraft flying in Kamchatka. The other one has
>been flown rather tentatively so far.
>
>
>
>The real trick, of course, has been to keep it flying for the duration
>of the project. My only part support is in North America and we had no
>way of communicating with any one, as we had no radio or satellite
>phone until this year; (we started in 1996). We were virtually out of
>touch for five months each year. This meant that I have to bring with
>us, everything that I anticipate needing each year and hope it covers
>my needs. I did anticipate a wreck of some kind like perhaps a bear
>ripping into it, so I have things like spare aluminum tubes, Dacron
>covering materials, rivets and basic tools, etc. We used everything
>last year when a 100 m.p.h. wind blew the plane over, causing a lot
>of damage. But with some concentrated work for three weeks, during
>which time no one figured out that we were in trouble, Maureen and I
>got it flying again. It actually flew a little better than it ever did
>previously, because I finally got a chance to tweak a few small things
>that I didn't get quite right when I built it.
>
>
>
>Some pilot friends and others, have asked , "when are you going to get
>a real plane?" and my stock answer is, when someone builds a "real
>plane" that does what I can do with this wonderful design. Like many
>others, I could not afford a regular air plane so I had to find one I
>could build and was determined to choose something, out of hundreds of
>kit home builds on the market, that would do what I needed to do.
>It has become an interest of mine to demonstrate that these light home
>built planes can be serious flying machines, not only suited to
>recreation. Of course they all have to be flown with the same skill
>and thought that is required with all flying.
>
>I have only flown 210 hours in Kamchatka but factoring in the severity
>of the weather where our cabin is situated, this is not too bad. By
>far the greatest wear and tear on my Kolb is that caused by the wind
>while tied to the ground during storms but I am slowly learning how to
>reduce this with the use of a wind fence.
>
>I don't want to get thinking that I am a good pilot, for fear of
>getting cocky and killing myself, but I am surprised at what I can do
>with this plane at times. It is a lot like having a helicopter with
>all the possibilities for landing places with the float, even without
>the amphibious wheels, on water, snow and wet tundra. To survive while
>flying in the mountains, it is a matter of survival, that you learn
>what air does while flowing around and over them and you have to know
>when to turn around when the weather turns against you. I have made a
>habit of carrying a sleeping bag and small tent with me at all times,
>so I can set down in a sheltered spot and wait for things to change
>back to the better. This, I have learned, can take a couple of days.
>Not (until lately) being allowed to use a radio made it worrisome for
>Maureen at times.
>
>Fog is a frequent visitor to our lake which is on the west side of the
>divide and it can pile in there from the Sea of Okhotsk real quickly.
>This all too often happens when I've flown to a place like our friends
>at the research station for some fresh vegetables where I can't watch
>what is happening while I am having tea. Coming back over the pass
>which separates the Kambalnoe area from the rest of Kamchatka, I am
>greeted with the dreaded fog but I have learned not to turn back
>before checking one thing first. It is usually clear on the east side
>so I fly along the divide to look for the "hole" which, I have
>learned, is a place where the top of the fog is pushed down so I can
>often see the south end of the lake. The problem is that it is caused
>by a down draft over a mountain and it is often small so I have to put
>down full flaps and make a tight spiral. When I enter, it's like
>getting into a fast elevator and the trick was how to get out of it
>without slamming into the lake, so I plan it so the spiral brings me
>around to the place where the air bounces off the lake. This acts like
>a big cushion and my sudden descent is pleasantly slowed and I touch
>down and taxi to the cabin on a compass heading though thick fog, to
>Maureen's great surprise! When I reverse this procedure, which is more
>difficult because you sit in the fog and guess when the hole might be
>there, I need all 80 h.p. to climb out in the down draft.
>
>Flying here has been a great adventure and I plan to cap the
>experience by eventually flying the Kolb from here back to Alberta via
>the Bering Straight.
>
>Some Technical Data:
> * The plane is a Kolb Mark III which I built in three months
>under pressure to finish to start the Spirit Bear project.( Kolb is
>on link on this page,) * The float is a Mono 2000, made by FullLotus
>in Vancouver B.C., Can. * Engine is a Rotax 912, four stroke,
>80 h.p. (incredible!) * The weight with the float is 550 lbs. (This
>light weight allows me to man handle the plane a curtain amount, in
>getting it tucked away from storms, etc.-- very important.) *
>Gas consumption averages 2.7 U.S. gal./hr.
>
>I some times wonder if any one else has ever flown a aircraft, of any
>kind, for so long in the wilderness with no support?
>
>
> Lenticular Productions Ltd. 1998
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FS II seat modifications? |
A big "THANKS" to those that responded to my question about seat
modifications. I am using your suggestions and making some progress. The
seat is real close. It is made from 1/4" thick plywood with a piano
hinge about 5" from the back. The hinge lets me adjust the angle to give
proper leg support without raising my seated heigth. There is 1" of foam
on the plywood and appolstery over that. After a couple of angle
adjustments, it seems comfortable, but I need to sit on it for more than
two hours for the real test. I will add details on the seat and other
"original" design modifications to my web page this fall. For now I am
too busy flying off the 40 hours.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 25.9 hrs
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FS II seat modifications? |
>John
>
>Try using the firmest foam you can, that will feel much more comfortable
>then soft foam. Layers also work well: real firm foam, then soft foam
>and then som fiberfill. Temperfoam is real comfy but I dont know about
>spending 100 bucks on a seat cushon.
>
>Topher
Hey Guys:
Depends on how much pain one can endure. When I first started flying the
MK III, 30 minutes duration and I had the most terrible butt cramps one can
experience. No way I could ever make an extended (super long) XC. I did
XCs to Lakeland and Oshkosh and Pennsylvania, squirming and shifting the
whole way and back.
I piece of firm temperfoam ($20.oo) from Alexander Airplane Co in the
bottom of my seat made a flight of 231 hours in 41 days possible. Never
got the first butt cramp on the '94 flight. I think it is 1 inch thick.
Used to get butt aches like that flying H-13s or civilian Bell 47s. They
had a sheet metal flat seat like a bench, with super compressed worn out
cushions. Oh for some temper foam back in the early 70s.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
via SMTP by pop-proxy02.primenet.com, id smtpd021218; Mon Jul 6 10:15:29 1998
| From: | swultra <swultra(at)primenet.com> |
swultra wrote:
>
> Hi all, I was looking at the pictures of john's plane and it appers that
> it doesn't have gap seals on the top of the wing ??????? Also awile back
> I asked if anybody new what happened to Jim Lee from Lakeland u/l
> Thanks Steve Ward Mark-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us> |
| Subject: | EIS Tach. Problem |
Well today was supposed to be the day I would take my FS for my first
flight. Went over to Kolb's and had an hour or so with Dan in the Mark
lll. Everything was ready and I could hardly wait to get to my FS only
about three miles away. Got to the barn (hanger) and pushed her out into
the sunshine and still air. Got the wings up and the tail set did my
preflight cranked her up and bingo no tach. All the other info was
working on the ESI but not the tach. Where the rpm was supposed to be
was a big O and above was the flashing red light. I decided to run up
and down the strip a little to get a little practice and for that I
really didn't need the tach. Now for the big question. What is the
likely cause for the problem? The timer on the instrument also doesn't
work so I guess it's in that curcuit somewhere. I don't have much time
with this instrument so I may be doin somethin stupid and not realizing
it. The light indicates that the tach is out and all the other numbers
are good. The last time the plane was flown the tach was working. I did
trailer it about 100 miles. Maybe somethin fell off but I looked as best
I could and couldn't find anything. Any ideas? If I can get this fixed
I can go flyin. If not I'm grounded. :-{{{{{
Help I can't stand it.
Thanks
Gary
=========================================================================
| Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us |
| Souderton Pa. | |
| | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only) |
=========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Nose & tail draggers |
Dear Kolbers,
The recent discussion on nosedraggers brough up some good questions and
thoughts on this subject. People ask us why Kolb does not have tricycle
(nosedragger) landing gear. Tail draggers have the following several
advantages:
1) Taildraggers are lighter - about 15 lb. for our type of airplane. The
extra weight coming from the much larger nose wheel and tire plus the extra
supporting structure needed up front.
2) Taildraggers have less drag - the tailwheel has almost no drag compared to
what a nose wheel and supporting strut would be.
3) Taildraggers are much more stable on rough terrain.
Did you ever see the typical tricycle gear ultralight scooting over rough
ground? It looks like a duck bobbing in rough water; because the nose wheel
and main wheels so are much closer, the whole airplane pitches up and down
noticeably on rough ground. A taildragger can go over the same rough ground
much faster with no bobbing at all.
4) Taildraggers require less maintenance. Nose wheels are a higher
maintenance item on most airplanes. At least 33% less tires to go flat!
5) A pusher with nose gear will fall on its tail when the pilot exits - it
sits with nose wheel in the air; so some structure is still needed at the tail
for this quirk even with a nose wheel. Not a huge big deal, but undesirable
in my opinion.
None of the above items taken by themselves are totally compelling, but all
added together make a pretty strong argument for a tail dragger.
When taking off or landing in a strong cross wind, with a wheel directly
under the tail, there is a lot of holding power to keep the airplane pointed
in the direction you want it to go. My standard cross wind technique is to
keep the stick full back while accelerating. I dont release back stick
until flying. Keeping the tail planted fiimly on the gound gives great
resistance to cross winds attempt to turn the plane into the wind. With a
nose dragger, you have a much shorter wheel base to resist that turning, plus
the tail is higher up off the ground which puts it in a little stonger cross
wind airflow.
People think that all taildraggers have bad vices in the handling department.
The truth here is that the most critical factor for ground handling is the
distribution of weight between the main wheels and the tailwheel. The
FireStar and Mark-III are designed to have very little weight on the
tailwheel, this makes our airplanes handle more like tricycles than
traditional taildraggers. There is no tendency to ground loop and little
tendency toward rhythmic bouncing - both of which are associated with
traditional taildraggers.
The other problem with traditional taildraggers is visibility, with many
the
pilot is blind on the ground and needs to do s-turns, etc. to see where he is
going. The pusher configuration does not need to have this problem and indeed
the Kolbs have great visibility.
To make a nose gear Kolb would require extensive modifications to move
the
main gear back to where it would need to be. We realize that all the above
reasons will be lost on those who have a strong nose gear orientation. We
also realize that we lose some sales because of the taildragger thing - but it
is not clear that whatever additional sales might exist would off set the
developmental cost of switching to nose gears.
(Of course there are more possibilites than just nose vs. tail dragger
configurations. The tandem gear has some excellent virtures as well. )
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: FS II seat modifications? |
John
I am by no means an expert on the subject hech I haven't even gotten my
FSll off the ground yet but............ The guy that owned the plane
before me used a little tubular pillow under his legs at the front of the
seat. I am 6'+ and I think without that pillow it would be a
problem for me also. It sill maybe a problem I haven't been in the plane
long enough to find out yet. If I can figure the tack problem out I
would look forward to being uncomfortable at 1500'. Maybe not for long
but right now I'd take it. ;-}
Gary
(sure wish I was flyin)
=========================================================================
| Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us |
| Souderton Pa. | |
| | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only) |
=========================================================================
On Fri, 3 Jul 1998, John Jung wrote:
> Group,
> I believe that I have discovered the most disagreeable feature of the
> Firestar II. It's the seat. Yesterday I logged 3.5 hours but it was a
> "pain in the butt". (I am trying to get 40 hours flown off so that I can
> fly into Oshkosh.) I have the .032 aluminum on the seat bottom with a
> thick soft foam pad on it. It's only good for 5 gallons of fuel, about 2
> hours. After that I am very uncomfortable. I did not have this problem
> in my original Firestar. Has anyone else been dissatisfied with the FSII
> seat, and what have you done to solve it? I have already added lumbar
> support to the backrest and it helps my back. I suspect that the seat is
> at too flat of an angle for me. (I am 6' tall) I think that I need a
> seat with more angle and some shape but it can't be too thick because I
> don't have much headroom. It can't go further forward because the stick
> is in the way. There must be someone that has figured this out already.
> What did you do and how well did it work?
> John Jung
> Firestar II N6163J 21.5 hrs
> SE Wisconsin
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
John
Do you have the address or telephone number of Alexander Airplane
company? You're right after one hour your butt becomes a dead-end!
Could use one of the cusions.....
Bob (padding in the belly, not the butt) Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <Tswartz(at)ptdprolog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS Tach. Problem |
Call Greg at EIS 616-531-4893. He has always very helpful.
Terry
Gary Thacker wrote:
>
> Well today was supposed to be the day I would take my FS for my first
> flight. Went over to Kolb's and had an hour or so with Dan in the Mark
> lll. Everything was ready and I could hardly wait to get to my FS only
> about three miles away. Got to the barn (hanger) and pushed her out into
> the sunshine and still air. Got the wings up and the tail set did my
> preflight cranked her up and bingo no tach. All the other info was
> working on the ESI but not the tach. Where the rpm was supposed to be
> was a big O and above was the flashing red light. I decided to run up
> and down the strip a little to get a little practice and for that I
> really didn't need the tach. Now for the big question. What is the
> likely cause for the problem? The timer on the instrument also doesn't
> work so I guess it's in that curcuit somewhere. I don't have much time
> with this instrument so I may be doin somethin stupid and not realizing
> it. The light indicates that the tach is out and all the other numbers
> are good. The last time the plane was flown the tach was working. I did
> trailer it about 100 miles. Maybe somethin fell off but I looked as best
> I could and couldn't find anything. Any ideas? If I can get this fixed
> I can go flyin. If not I'm grounded. :-{{{{{
>
> Help I can't stand it.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gary
>
> =========================================================================
> | Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us |
> | Souderton Pa. | |
> | | gthacker(at)wsd.k12.pa.us (work only) |
> =========================================================================
>
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
Hey Dennis!
Thanks for responding to the Taildragger/ nose wheel discussion.
I know some people are pretty set in their ways, regarding which is
better.
Personally I think both have good points and bad. To bad we can't keep
the best of both, and throw away the bad. But that's life.
You mentioned in your response, your technique for crosswind take- offs.
But I didn't see anything( I know, I'm blind) about how you do crosswind
landings. Their difficulty seems to be compounded by the fact that toe-in
can not completely eliminated, at least on my F/SII. No matter how far I
rotated my steel axle bracket around the aluminum gear leg, I always had
some toe-in.
I saw another Kolb at the field that had a solid axle all the way across.
That took care of the toe-in problem. My concern is that it would reduce
the flexibility of the gear to a forward motion only, instead of an
outward motion. (possibility effecting the fuse-cage? I know some
wouldn't like this type of arraignment, but some WWI aircraft, and some
ultralights use this arraignment. Any comments?
The more we throw ideas around, the more we learn.
Thanks again, for any comments
Bob Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: seat cushion |
>John
>
>Do you have the address or telephone number of Alexander Airplane
>company? You're right after one hour your butt becomes a dead-end!
>Could use one of the cusions.....
>
>Bob (padding in the belly, not the butt) Doebler
Bob:
Alexander sold out to Aircraft Spruce. They are on line and may be able to
find the erganomic/temper foam that way. Anyhow, ask for firm, not med or
soft. I argued, then took the firm as recommended and it works for me and
is still working. In fact, Bill Griffin, who is on this list, after a XC
in my left seat (CP seat in my MK III), ordered two pieces of temper foam,
one for his Firestar and one for my left seat. Now his butt is also happy.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rad(at)pcola.gulf.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS Tach. Problem |
>likely cause for the problem? The timer on the instrument also doesn't
>work so I guess it's in that curcuit somewhere. I don't have much time
Nothing like a little anticipation eh Gary :-)
I'm willing to bet a beer that you just lost a connection to the tach signal on
the engine. The timer only records engine time when the tach is over a certain
rpm, so that's why it isn't working.
Calling Greg is always a pleasant experience. He's a nice guy and naturally
knows more about these thingys (technical term) than anyone else. Before you
call though, you might want to look for a loose connection because that's what
he's going to tell you to do anyway.
There are at least 3 places where the tach wire may be connected. Some engines
have a dedicated tach lead, but this isn't always the best choice for your tach.
In other words, you might find a tach wire that has never been connected to
anything. Sometimes, it is hooked to one of the lighting coils, and other
times, it's hooked to the ignition switch (or lead). Of course, there's always
the chance that it came loose from the plug on the back of the EIS, but that
would be my last guess.
Good luck finding the connection, and then have a safe flight.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS Tach. Problem |
> >likely cause for the problem? The timer on the instrument also doesn't
> >work so I guess it's in that curcuit somewhere. I don't have much time
Dollar to a donut it's a problem with a faulty ground or the Engine
Measurement Parameter (EMP) is not set correctly....for two stroke
CDI Rotax the EMP is 6. For non-CDI the value is 2.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS Tach. Problem |
> Jim
>
> Hold it right there. :-}} You may have hit somethin here. I checked the
> redline for the tach @ 6600 RPM. It was set right, but what is this #6
> thing for Rotax CDI'S. Can't say I know anything about this. Since I
> don't it may be a thought. How do I set this value?
>
> I hope this is it. I for sure will check it in the mornin.
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> Gary
Make sure there is a ground from the engine to the ground
(airframe?) common with the battery or with the regulator/ rectifier
ground. The engine is usually isolated from ground and may not have
one at all unless a starter is used where the engine must have a
ground to operate the starter.
Take a look on page 11 of the EIS manual. The expalanation for the
EMP is there. And I made a error...the std EIS requires a setting of
20 for the CDI Rotax and 60 for non-CDI...the values I gave were for
the advanced EIS.
Power up the EIS ....push and hold the center and right keys for
three seconds. The second option using the NEXT key (shows up on the
LCD over the DISPLAY key) is the EMP setting. Should say "20". Set
using the left or center keys. Then just cycle through all the
settings using the NEXT key and the deed is done once you return to
the normal display page. To get the unit to accept the new setting,
power must be cycled off then back on again.
Keep in mind that you should have a seperate power switch on the EIS
unit to activate it after start-up. This is really important as the
power draw/surge if using a battery system and starter is hard on the
unit and could cause it to have amnesia (EEPROM gets zapped and the
settings go away). You'll remember to do this after when
you forget to switch off before stating and the RPM suddenly reads
8000 RPM at idle.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Bill Reisner of LEAF Crashed & Missing |
-----Original Message-----
From: Cuac(at)aol.com <Cuac(at)aol.com>
Lilipuha1(at)aol.com ; Rak96(at)aol.com ;
lindy(at)snowhill.com
Date: Monday, July 06, 1998 10:28 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fwd: Fw: Bill Reisner of LEAF Crashed & Missing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FS II seat modifications? |
Thanks to all that responded to my request for help on seat
modifications, especially John Hauck. I plan to buy a piece of
temperfoam and replace the existing foam after I get the shape worked
out. At $25. per sheet, from Aircraft Spruce, I don't want to buy more
than necessary. For others that are interested in temperfoam, see ->
http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/spruce/search.cgi/catalog? and search on
"cushion".
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 25.9 hrs
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FLYING ON THE FAR SIDE |
>Charlie Russel has done some extraordinary flying in his Kolb Mark-III in
>eastern Russia. Experimenter had a nice article on Charlie's exploits - I
>think in the past year or so. Charlie has done some very real pioneering in
>ultralight flying. Enjoy!
>
>
>Charlie sent in a report from Russia that was all
>>about his Kolb. I thought you folks might like it...
Thanks Dennis.
Great story of two of my favorite subjects, Kolbs and wild life, especially
Grizzlies. Got to witness a few in Alaska last summer.
Another example of the capabilities of the MK III. To perform Charlie
Russell's mission, the MK III has to be a tough, superb hauler, to land,
fly, and take off in his environment. The aircraft reminds me of my old
1970 Toyota Land Cruiser that I have owned and driven for 28 years. The MK
III, like the Land Cruiser, does what you ask it to do (almost always).
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
John
Will 1" temperfoam do the job? I see they have 2 & 3" foam also.But
it starts to get expensive.
Bob D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Bob,
The reason for the 1" is lack of headroom. If I had headroom, making
a comfortable seat would be an easier task.
John Jung
>
>Robert L Doebler wrote:
>
> John
>
> Will 1" temperfoam do the job? I see they have 2 & 3" foam also.But
> it starts to get expensive.
>
> Bob D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "friend(at)bright.net" <dczolling(at)email.msn.com> |
Hi
Will I get a substantial noise reduction if I use intake
silencer??????
Duane Zollinger FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGrooms511(at)aol.com |
Gentlemen:
Several months ago a creative builder posted the address for several pictures
of a set of home made brakes he had designed for his Kolb. Could that builder
please repost that address so that I might download those pictures.
Thanks
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes, etc etc |
On Tue, 7 Jul 1998 WGrooms511(at)aol.com wrote:
> Gentlemen:
> Several months ago a creative builder posted the address for several pictures
of a set of home made brakes he had designed for his Kolb. Could that builder
please repost that address so that I might download those pictures.
> Thanks
> Walt
> -
Don't know if you mean me, but I did post on the brakes I made. Pics
are at: http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/build/a5brakes.html
While I'm here I'll mention my seat cushion ...I simply bought a "fleece"
pad (butt and back) from Grand Auto. It really helps a lot, spreads
out the butt lbs/SF, but is of course no use in changing any seat angle.
Looks fine, weighs nothin. I guess the KXP seat is more like the orig
FS seat than the current FS.
And still on another subject, I'm curious about you guys that said
Rotaxes like high rpms ...any more discussion on this? I had said
I used lower rpms (~5000 max cruise) but thought somebody might be so
kind as to bark back that i'm full of it and give a good reason.
If there is a reason like "on the pipe", how do you *know* 5800 is
"on the pipe". And have you really done comparson tests to know
that "on the pipe" (~5800?) gives lower fuel gph than 5000 rpm?
Lower fuel gph at 5800 would help me as a piece of evidence that
the engine is cleaner, hotter, happier(?) at 5800 than say, 4800.
Maybe there is no reason, just experience? If that's so, I guess I'm
inclined to try higher rpms as John Hauck suggested. Not sure I'll like
going so fast tho. :-)
- Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb(at)jmd.ods.com |
via smtpd (for www.intrig.com [206.54.183.49]) with SMTP; 8 Jul 1998 06:29:06 UT
(Netscape Messaging Server 3.0) with SMTP id AAA122;
There 2 & 3 inch is usually made up of 1" thick pieces glued together
each a different color (blue, green, & pink if I recall right not at
home or I could tell you) and a different price if I recall right.
The stuff is great if I have to say so myself but is pricey. There
are other products out there but there just not the same.
At Sun&Fun there was an outfit which made a portable seat and back
cushions which the seat was temper foam. Again they were not cheap
but it was nice completed unit. Looked like some of the units that
sell for about $65-75, but cost more.
If you went with 1", I would think you would want at least the medium
density, the lower would probably be too soft used alone and the high
density to firm.
If you call them they will send you a (small) sample. Expect
something like 1" cubes of each type but it's good enough to get an
ideal how firm each is.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Kolb-List: kolb seat
Date: 7/7/98 9:52 AM
John
Will 1" temperfoam do the job? I see they have 2 & 3" foam also.But
it starts to get expensive.
Bob D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Re: Wankel Rotary 37hp |
Group,
Here is some information on a lightweight rotary engine that is going to
be introduced at Oshkosh 98. There web address is:
http://www.wankel-rotary.com
Rutledge Fuller,
Here is the Wankel Rotary price information that you requested in your
e-mail.
Wankel Aircraft Engine Table of Facts
Description: Single or twin rotor, liquid cooled housing, charge cooled
rotor, roller bearings, tric fuel injection, dual electronic ignition,
sparkplugs, generator, electric starter bolted on cogbelt reduction
drive.
Model LCR-407 SGti LCR-814 TGti LCR 814 TGti
Twinpak
Type single rotor twin rotor dual twin rotor
Dimension (in)
LxWxH 18.9x18.1x16.9 23.6x18.1x16.9 27.5x25x17
Weight (lb)
Engine 55 77 262
Reduction Drive 14.3 14.3 incl
Electric System 7.7 9.9 incl
Power @ 6000 rpm 35 75 150
Torque (ft-lb) 31@4500rpm 66.4@4000rpm 132.8@4000rpm
Displacement (cc) 407 814 2x814
BSFC (lb/hp-hr) .5 .5 .5
Fuel: unleaded gasoline/Mogas (ROZ92) or 1:880 mixture
Lubrication: standard 2-stroke oil (API-TC)
Ignition unit: Wankel tric injection with engine management system
Electric Starter:12V/900W
Generator: 14V/200W
Standard Specification
Engine equipped with electric starter, generator, airfilter, engine
management system with twin spark ignition
Price ($US) 6295.00 8858.00 20.000.00
Optional: Price ($US)
exhaust muffler 574.00 837.00 1,200.00
radiator 276.00 362.00 900.00
3:1 reduction drive 534.00 534.00 1100.00
Why a Wankel Rotary Engine? The engine is smooth running with low
vibration, it is ideally shaped for an aircraft installation, and is
extremely quiet as it must be to meet the European noise restrictions.
Thanks for your interest in Wankel Rotary Engines. We are planning to
exhibit these engines and an aircraft at the Oshkosh Air Venture 98
Show,
and will be in the North Aircraft Exposition Area, Space 401.
>Mr. Brooks,
>
>I saw your add in the August issue of Kitplanes. I currently have a
>Kolb Firestar with a 377 Rotax and have been in search of a more
>reliable replacement. The LCR-407 SG ti (37hp @ 6000 rpm) looks like a
>contender. Can you please send me some information on this particular
>engine?
>
>Thanks,
>Rutledge Fuller
>Tallahassee, Florida
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes, etc etc |
edu>
>And still on another subject, I'm curious about you guys that said
>Rotaxes like high rpms ...any more discussion on this? I had said
>I used lower rpms (~5000 max cruise) but thought somebody might be so
Good morning Ben:
Just read your post on flying backwards at 5,000 max cruise. Just kidding
:>) hehehe.
How do I know that my old 447 and my old UL II 02 was "on the pipe"? I
good way for me to understand and be aware of when a two cycle engine comes
on the pipe is to hop on a 100 or 125cc motoX bike. Get going and in 2 or
3 gear slowly accelerate. At lower RPMs the eng will run rough, erratic,
not puttting out the high HP that it was designed to put out. As rpm
increases there will come a point in the rpm range that the engine will
start to surge, clean up, and want to turn faster. On a motoX bike the
front wheel will probably come off the ground when it comes on the pipe.
It is then in its power band from there until probably close to red line
rpm. The power band will be very narrow, in order to get optimum power out
of that little eng.
My 447 had the same general characteristics, however not nearly so
dramatic, but they are there and anyone that can fly an airplane should
have enough sensitivity to realize when they are in the area, unless they
are more dead than alive. It has been 8 years since I flew my Firestar, so
I may be a little rusty on my numbers and will not try to be exact.
Anyway, around 5200-5300 rpm the 447 will not want to settle down. It will
be searching, speeding up and falling off rpm until around 5500-5600 rpm.
>From 5600 to 6800 (red line for 447) the engine is running in its power
band, where it was designed to perform. It is running most efficiently in
that range. Sure it is burning more fuel than at 4600, but it is doing it
at higher efficiency.
I don't have any hard data, comparisons, graphs, or studies. But I do have
1100 plus hours flying the Cuyuna and the 447, both on long XCs. Both
engines and airplanes (Ultrastar and Firestar) liked to fly at 5800. It
gave us good xc speed (65 to 70 mph), less vibs, and everyone was happy.
Evidence that the eng was running cleaner and happier came at teardown
time, which was not when Rotax wanted me to tear it down, but when it
showed signs of power loss or some other problem, like dead stick at 500
ft. Rotaxs that run slow will carbon up quickly, and require overhaul more
frequently. Just my humble opinion thru experience.
My 447 at 5800 burned 3.5 gph.
My 912 at 5000 burns 4 gph, 5200 burns 4.25, and 5400 burns 4.5. These
numbers are derived on XCs of at least and hour or two. I have found that
flying around the patch will almost cut these figures in half. Don't think
what your fuel burn is playing around the airstrip is going to be your xc
burn unless you are backing up and running 4600 rpm, but I don't know much
about this rpm range cause my engines only pass thru them on the way to
their cruise rpm.
It's the way I do it, and it works for me.
See you guys in Oshkosh. Found out yesterday that Ernie, my old Bassett
hound is not welcome at Oshkosh, so my gal friend Nell and Ernie are
boycotting the flyin and staying home. That means I get to fly to Oshkosh
rather than pull the 5th wheel. Ain't I lucky. I get to sleep in my tent
for another week. yeeeee hawwwww
Respectfully submitted,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Group,
A week or two ago there was a discussion about tailwheels (Kolbs)
being difficult to land in turbulent crosswinds. My point was that if
one was really profficient at landing the Kolb's were not difficult. I
should have qualified my statements with "ON GRASS". Recently I landed
my Firestar II on a paved runway in a turbulent crosswind. It was more
work, for a few seconds, after I touched down than on approach. It was a
significant difference from a tricycle on pavement. Now I think I
understand why some people who have to fly off pavement prefer nose
wheels.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 27 hrs (13 to go)
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
Thanks Dennis for taking the time out of a busy schedule to respond
to my inquiries.
Bob Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
via SMTP by pop-proxy03.primenet.com, id smtpd016774; Wed Jul 8 08:25:56 1998
| From: | swultra <swultra(at)primenet.com> |
swultra wrote:
>
> swultra wrote:
> >
> > Hi all, I was looking at the pictures of john's plane and it appers that
> > it doesn't have gap seals on the top of the wing ??????? Also awile back
> > I asked if anybody new what happened to Jim Lee from Lakeland u/l
> > Thanks Steve Ward Mark-3
> -
swultra wrote:
>
> swultra wrote:
> >
> > Hi all, I was looking at the pictures of john's plane and it appers that
> > it doesn't have gap seals on the top of the wing ??????? Also awile back
> > I asked if anybody new what happened to Jim Lee from Lakeland u/l
> > Thanks Steve Ward Mark-3
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM |
| Subject: | Rotax on the pipe |
Yes, what John H just said makes sense. The effect he described is caused
by a combination of the pipe design and limitations of the carb to be tuned
to perfectly fit the required fuel delivery curve. Thats why, as John noted,
at low RPM the engine doesn't run real well (this is that 100 cc highly-tuned
motocross engine remember) because the carb can't be set up to deliver enough
fuel at the high end peak demand without delivering a little too much at lower
throttle. The tuning of the pipe adds power in a specific area of the power
curve. The tuning of this resonant system is designed to fit the engines'
application. The 582 has a large volume tuned pipe to produce a broad pulse
over a wider frequency span (RPM range) than say the 532.
Back to aircraft. Ben, I think that the word "efficiency" can be used to
refer to the engine itself or the entire craft. Drag is going to build fast
as speed goes up (Topher, help me out here, doesn't drag force square as
speed doubles?). So to get the big picture on craft efficiency in miles per
gallon, you would compare consumption to traveled distance, negating wind.
On the other hand, John is also correct in saying that a 2-stroke that runs
at part throttle will carbon up faster and so probly need service (or Seafoam?)
sooner than one run nearly wide open where the jetting produces cleaner
combustion. This is clearly evidenced by the EGT gauge. This gauge could
be called the "time before decarbon is needed" indicator.
See ya...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax on the pipe |
On Wed, 8 Jul 1998 GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
> motocross engine remember) because the carb can't be set up to deliver enough
> fuel at the high end peak demand without delivering a little too much at lower
> throttle. The tuning of the pipe adds power in a specific area of the power
Hmmm, I think you can get pretty good at any desired rpm with right
combo of main, mid jets and needle shape/position. My EGT goes up in
mid-4000, decreases above 5000. Mine doesn't hunt or miss in the 4k,low
5k either. I agree tho, wrt "on the pipe"; it ain't really giving you
the kick until low 5k.
>
> Back to aircraft. Ben, I think that the word "efficiency" can be used to
> refer to the engine itself or the entire craft. Drag is going to build fast
> as speed goes up (Topher, help me out here, doesn't drag force square as
> speed doubles?). So to get the big picture on craft efficiency in miles per
> gallon, you would compare consumption to traveled distance, negating wind.
>
> On the other hand, John is also correct in saying that a 2-stroke that runs
> at part throttle will carbon up faster and so probly need service (or Seafoam?)
> sooner than one run nearly wide open where the jetting produces cleaner
> combustion. This is clearly evidenced by the EGT gauge. This gauge could
> be called the "time before decarbon is needed" indicator.
>
I may re-label mine:
On low EGT end of gauge: "time before decarbon needed"
:)
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
john hauck wrote:
snip...
> How do I know that my old 447 and my old UL II 02 was "on the pipe"?
snip...
> Anyway, around 5200-5300 rpm the 447 will not want to settle down. It will
> be searching, speeding up and falling off rpm until around 5500-5600 rpm.
> >From 5600 to 6800 (red line for 447) the engine is running in its power
> band, where it was designed to perform. It is running most efficiently in
> that range.
snip...
John H,
How do you separate "on-the-pipe" from the wing being "on-step"? Both
the engine and the wing change efficiency with speed. I cruised my
original 377 Firestar between 4,500 and 5,000 rpm. It was more efficient
at 5,000 rpm, in miles per gallon, and relative mph per rpm. But it
would stay at the rpms that I set, without fluxuation.
Years ago I had a Falcon ultralight with a 277 and a Kirker
(spelling?) exhaust. It had the "on-the-pipe" problem where it would
refuse to cruise between 5,200 and 5,800 rpm. The problem went away
after I put a Rotax exhaust on it.
Besides the 277 Falcon and the 377 Firestar I have had 2 other Rotax
powered ultralights. Each would cruise steady at whatever rpm's. Because
of that, I thought that there was very little "on-the-pipe" tunning
effect with a stock Rotax exhaust.
Seeking a better understanding of the machines that provide so much fun,
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 27 hrs
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: On the pipe? |
<3.0.1.32.19980708091659.0082d100(at)pop.mindspring.com>
> How do you separate "on-the-pipe" from the wing being "on-step"?
Two totally different things! Like apples and oranges.... The wing being
"on step" is a rather nebulous condition that may, or may not, be true...
There is a correct angle of attack (alpha) that will allow the wing to
operate at it's peak efficiency for whatever conditions exist at that moment.
2 stroke engines, more so than "most" 4 strokes, require a certain ammount
of backpressure to run at peak efficiency. The correct ammount of
backpressure is largely deterrmined by the design of the expansion chamber
built into the exhaust system. The rpm that puts the engine on pipe can be
changed by the design of the expansion chamber. Some racing outboards not
only change their power by opening the throttle, but also have variable
(adjustable) expansion chambers so they can maximise power output for the
conditions at hand.
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Wilde" <jeffwilde(at)mpinet.net> |
Hi. I read a recent article about using rivits that were too long for the
application. Kolb currently supplies its kits with rivits and directions on
which rivits to use for a particular location. I have found myself on
several occaisions using the next longer rivit just to be sure that that I
have adaquate length. Have I decreased the strength of the plane any by
substituting a longer rivit? I'm getting close to covering my Kolb Mark III
and still have not decided on an engine. I may go the easy, safe route and
have Kolb ship me the Rotax 582 special. This would probably save me alot
of time and grief but it is quite expensive. I've been keeping my eye on 2
Stroke International and their 690L70, 70hp, 3cylinder engine. I talked to
a couple of people from S&F who were using it and they indicated that the
were having a pretty good experience with it. Has any one out there had any
experience with it? If so I would like to hear from you. PS- I don't talk
much but I have learned alot from this forum. Jeff in Oviedo Fl. (near
Orlando)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: On the pipe? |
>Date: Wed, 08 Jul 1998 12:53:38 -0500
>To: jrjung(at)execpc.com
>From: john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
>Subject: Re: On the pipe?
>In-Reply-To: <35A3982D.297E(at)execpc.com>
>References: <9807080237.AA17888@mary>
<3.0.1.32.19980708091659.0082d100(at)pop.mindspring.com>
>
>> How do you separate "on-the-pipe" from the wing being "on-step"? Both
>>the engine and the wing change efficiency with speed. I cruised my
>>original 377 Firestar between 4,500 and 5,000 rpm. It was more efficient
>>at 5,000 rpm, in miles per gallon, and relative mph per rpm. But it
>>would stay at the rpms that I set, without fluxuation.
>
>
>Hello John and gang:
>
>If I didn't say it before, I will say it now: I'm not trying to argue
theory of pipes, engs and wings, just share with you what works for me. I
don't need a slide rule to tell me when the eng, airplane and pilot are
comfortable with each other, and it didn't take me years to come to this
conclusion. Helicopters work the same way in regards to a happy medium.
Aircraft have personalities, just like people. Two aircraft of the same
identical type may have different happy spots.
>
>I have nothing against people who desire to operate an engine below its
designed performance band. They remind me of some old fart driving 45 mph
in 5th gear, also skipping gears to save a drop of gas, hammering the wrist
pin and crank bearings out of the eng as the result. I am not trying to
convince others to live and fly like me. Only sharing what works best for
me as the result of a lot of hours of trials and tribulations with these
little airplanes.
>
>What looks good on paper doesn't necessarily work in practice. I believe
in skinning a few knuckles to find out the best way to do something. But
no more than necesary. hehehe
>
>I understand flying styles differ as much as driving style, life styles,
and personalities. So go fly like you enjoy flying. That's what I do.
Some days I like to just barely hang on the edge of the stall with throttle
way back to minimum flight rpm, but most of the time I like to fly at
normal cruise rpm (where my little airplane performs best). We are
fortunate to be blessed with a design that has such a wide range of
capabilities. It is hard to get bored flying a Kolb.
>
>Respectfully,
>
>john h
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose & tail draggers |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>
>....To make a nose gear Kolb would require extensive modifications
>to move the
>main gear back to where it would need to be. ...
I'll apologize to any Tierra owners in advance;
There's a Tierra 2 in our club that has been converted (with the factory
kit) from a taildragger to a nose-dragger. Granted, the standard bird
wouldn't win many beauty prizes (IMHO) but with the nose-gear kit it
resembles a poorly engineered refinery explosion ("tubes goin'
everwhere!"). ;-)
On the other hand, If there is an UL-type which deserves a nose gear, it
would be the Tierra. It has a much deserved reputation for
ground-looping. If you ever get the chance (and the owner's ok of
course), lift the tail of one. It's amazingly heavy. Not so with a Kolb.
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flutter-sort off |
I had an interesting weekend tracking a sudden problem, while flying whenever
I was hit by a heavy gust something started a low amplitude resonance that
could be felt thru the airframe but not the stick or pedals. After the sudden
interest in religion a quick pull back of power and nose up to slow down it
would stop until the next gust. To cut the story down the culprit was the
RANS plastic fairing strips that I had on the tailwires not streaming with the
airflow and resonating when excited by the gusts. 4 years of living in the cow
barn had deposited enough dirt and grit to stop the fairing from easily
rotating on the wires, anyway they are now in the trash and everything is back
to normal.
Dick C FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mick Fine" <froghair(at)mailexcite.com> |
If anyone is interested, there's a story from the Colorado Springs Gazette about
the Bill Raisner crash at:
http://www.gazette.com/archive/98-07-01/top1.html
Looks like a fair story overall but thought I'd quote a couple sentences from it
here:
"...Ultralight planes are often little more than a chair suspended beneath a nylon
canvas wing. Many run on two-cylinder engines and reach top speeds of 40 to
60 miles per hour. The planes weigh about 250 pounds. ..."
The plane was a Quick GT-500. This reporter looks like he's headed for CNN.
---
-Mick Fine
mefine1(at)juno.com
froghair(at)mailexcite.com
Green Country Ultralight Flyers (UFO)
Tulsa, OK
Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com
________________________________________________________________________________
8 Jul 98 17:51:22 GMT+7
8 Jul 98 17:50:53 GMT+7
> To: jrjung(at)execpc.com
> From: skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net>
> Subject: Re: On the pipe?
> Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com
> > How do you separate "on-the-pipe" from the wing being "on-step"?
>
> Two totally different things! Like apples and oranges.... The wing being
> "on step" is a rather nebulous condition that may, or may not, be true...
> There is a correct angle of attack (alpha) that will allow the wing to
> operate at it's peak efficiency for whatever conditions exist at that moment.
>
> 2 stroke engines, more so than "most" 4 strokes, require a certain ammount
> of backpressure to run at peak efficiency. The correct ammount of
> backpressure is largely deterrmined by the design of the expansion chamber
> built into the exhaust system. The rpm that puts the engine on pipe can be
> changed by the design of the expansion chamber. Some racing outboards not
> only change their power by opening the throttle, but also have variable
> (adjustable) expansion chambers so they can maximise power output for the
> conditions at hand.
>
> Skip
Exactly right...the expansion chamber acts to increase the
compression of the engine by preventing some of the fresh fuel/air
mix from escaping out of the exhaust port before it is closed by the
rising piston. At some RPM, this action becomes most efficient, and a
noticable increase in engine power is felt. If the engine is operated
right at the RPM where this occurs, then more or less abrupt
increases/decreases in engine RPM will occur. Changing prop pitch to
operate in a slightly different (probably slightly higher) engine
RPM, or the use of a different design of expasion chamber will cause
the engine to run in its best RPM band.
BTW, 4 strokes do not benefit at all by the use of an expansion
chamber exhaust.
-George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax on the pipe |
> On the other hand, John is also correct in saying that a 2-stroke that runs
> at part throttle will carbon up faster and so probly need service
Not entirely true. Combustion deposit formation is a function of
temperature. Get the EGT into the 1150 range at any throttle
setting (assuming appropriate load at that setting) and deposit
formation will be no more, or less, than any other throttle setting
with the same EGT and appropriate load.
Part throttle operation where the EGT remains near 950 is generally
the culprit.....again, assuming the appropriate load is applied and
not exceeded.
Rogowski and Taylor, "Part Throttle Operation of a Piston
Ported Two-Stroke Cylinder", NACA TN 9191
Bowhay and Koenig, "Factors Affecting Formation of Low Temperature
Engine Deposits", SAE Quarterly Transcript 2, 132
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
release (PO205-101c) ID# 605-45218U5000L500S0) with SMTP
| From: | "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)intermediatn.net> |
Jeff,
You wrote:
> I've been keeping my eye on 2
>Stroke International and their 690L70, 70hp, 3cylinder engine. I talked to
>a couple of people from S&F who were using it and they indicated that the
>were having a pretty good experience with it.
I have been considering what engine to buy for a project for which I need an
engine of about this size. While I have no experience with the 2SI 690L70,
I have thought of a couple of concerns with it in airplane use. Maybe you
or others on the Kolb list can tell us if my concerns have any merit.
The 582 has two spark plugs per cylinder. If you loose one CDI circuit or
foul one spark plug, I think you get little difference in performance. Now
how will the 690L70 perform if it looses one CDI circuit or one spark plug?
I don't know. I have been told that an engine of this type, with one plug
per cylinder, may well loose much of its power and only run at certain RPMs
because the dead cylinder may interfer through the exhaust system with the
other cylinder's performance. At least, before I would want to fly with
one, I would want to know how it worked with one dead cylinder.
Perhaps you Kolbers having experience on the Rotax engines with single
ignition could comment on how often one cylinder failure is a problem. Do
spark plugs ever fail in airplane applications? Will those engines run on
one cylinder?
Vince Nicely
Firestar II (160 Hrs)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Wilde <jeffwilde(at)mpinet.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 2:52 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Rivits.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
George,
>> 2 stroke engines, more so than "most" 4 strokes, require a certain ammount
>> of backpressure to run at peak efficiency.
>BTW, 4 strokes do not benefit at all by the use of an expansion
>chamber exhaust.
I tried to qualify my comments on 4 stroke engines by saying "most". :) Be
that as it may, 4 stroke engines, in particular HI-REVING, HI-PERFORMANCE
race engines, gain considerable power by using a "tuned" exhaust system.
This is, ROUGHLY the equivalent, of the 2 stroke's expansion chamber when
it comes to enhancing engine performance.
A good exhaust system can, and will, help almost any engine. (single cycle
"donkey engines" excluded. :)
Regards,
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
> BTW, 4 strokes do not benefit at all by the use of an expansion
> chamber exhaust.
>
Just ask a drag racer to lop six inches off his headers.
Though the four stroke header doesn't look like a typical two-stroke
chamber (header, divergent cone, mid section, convergent cone,
stinger), most have a cross section that is a very shallowly tapered
megaphone, which is, indeed, a tuned pipe section resulting in tuning
effects.
Sanitz, "Analysis of the Exhaust Process", ASME 73, April 1951
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
> The 582 has two spark plugs per cylinder. If you loose one CDI circuit or
> foul one spark plug, I think you get little difference in performance. Now
> how will the 690L70 perform if it looses one CDI circuit or one spark plug?
> I don't know. I have been told that an engine of this type, with one plug
> per cylinder, may well loose much of its power and only run at certain RPMs
> because the dead cylinder may interfer through the exhaust system with the
> other cylinder's performance. At least, before I would want to fly with
> one, I would want to know how it worked with one dead cylinder.
Quite true, though the loss of power is mostly from the added
friction and pumping lossed derived from driving a dead cyclinder.
The loss is not proportional...that is, 1 dead cyl doesn't reduce
power by a third...more like a half. Nick Jones, designer of the
Lightning Bug (250 mph on 100 hp three cyl 2SI engine), had such an
occurance and the engine still ran though at about the power
indicated above.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
OK guys whats the plan.We gotta get together at Osh Kosh sometime.I will
be there Sunday Monday and Tuesday.I learned long ago to avoid most of the
first weekend.There are a lot fewer people on the rest of the week so if you
want to see anything or talk to anyone there is less hassle doing it.The
campground across the road from the Ultralight area seems to be the best
deal and quite convenient.To get the ball rolling I will suggest meeting at
the Kolb tent at 5 on Sunday.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
>> The 582 has two spark plugs per cylinder. If you loose one CDI circuit or
>> foul one spark plug, I think you get little difference in performance. Now
>> how will the 690L70 perform if it looses one CDI circuit or one spark plug?
>> I don't know. I have been told that an engine of this type, with one plug
>> per cylinder, may well loose much of its power and only run at certain RPMs
>> because the dead cylinder may interfer through the exhaust system with the
>> other cylinder's performance. At least, before I would want to fly with
>> one, I would want to know how it worked with one dead cylinder.
>
>Quite true, though the loss of power is mostly from the added
>friction and pumping lossed derived from driving a dead cyclinder.
>The loss is not proportional...that is, 1 dead cyl doesn't reduce
>power by a third...more like a half. Nick Jones, designer of the
>Lightning Bug (250 mph on 100 hp three cyl 2SI engine), had such an
>occurance and the engine still ran though at about the power
>indicated above.
>
>
>J. Baker
>-
Hi Jim and gang:
You are right brother, but don't try flying on a 2 cyl 2 stroke that has
lost a cyl. From my experience with losing a cyl the eng still runs but
does not put out any where near enough power to keep the aircraft aloft.
You is going down. In that situation I hit the kill switch for better
glide or if I need to lose altitude quickly, I let her run the best she can
and use the prop as an air brake. Lost a plug wire early on in the
Ultrastar before I learned to safety wire them, and fouled a plug on my new
Firestar with 377 before I learned not to let it idle too long. Well,
truthfully, I had the second fouled plug shortly after the first and it
took two episodes to learn my lesson.
Keep on flying.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> OK guys whats the plan.We gotta get together at Osh Kosh sometime.I will
>be there Sunday Monday and Tuesday.I learned long ago to avoid most of the
>first weekend.There are a lot fewer people on the rest of the week so if you
>want to see anything or talk to anyone there is less hassle doing it.The
>campground across the road from the Ultralight area seems to be the best
>deal and quite convenient.To get the ball rolling I will suggest meeting at
>the Kolb tent at 5 on Sunday.
>
>
>
> Woody
Hi Woody:
I'll be there the 27th or 28th and throughout the week. Probably depart
for Alabama the morning of the last day, depending on what the crowd is
like and if anyone is interested in watching the ULs fly around the traffic
pattern.
I'll be flying the factory Slingshot all week, if the Lord's willing and
the creek don't rise. I'll try to park my MK III as close to the Kolb
trailer as possible. I lucked out at Lakeland and tied down with the Kolb
display.
Reckon I'd better get busy and get the bird ready for the flight to
Oshkosh. Haven't flown it since Brother Jim and I got back from Texas.
Look forward to seeing and meeting you all at Oshkosh.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: On the pipe? |
john hauck wrote:
> Hello John and gang:
>
> If I didn't say it before, I will say it now: I'm not trying to argue
> theory of pipes, engs and wings, just share with you what works for me.
snip...
John H.,
Sorry if I sounded argumentative. I am really trying to learn and I
offer my views to help communication, not because I think they are
right. Tonight I flew at 5,500 rpm instead of 5,000 for over an hour to
try to come closer to what works for you. My prop is adjusted for 6,300
max rpm on take off (single carb 503). I picked up 10 mph for a 70 mph
cruise. My fuel burn went up some, but not too bad. I'll need more
testing to get an accurate fuel burn. I'll need to rejet before trying
5,800, because I kept pushing 1,200 degrees whenever the rpm's got above
5,500. The higher rpm's were louder but also smoother. Not a bad
tradeoff with proper ear protection.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 28.2 hrs
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
via SMTP by pop-proxy03.primenet.com, id smtpd004288; Thu Jul 9 06:38:02 1998
| From: | swultra <swultra(at)primenet.com> |
swultra wrote:
>
> swultra wrote:
> >
> > swultra wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all, I was looking at the pictures of john's plane and it appers that
> > > it doesn't have gap seals on the top of the wing ??????? Also awile back
> > > I asked if anybody new what happened to Jim Lee from Lakeland u/l
> > > Thanks Steve Ward Mark-3
> > -
> swultra wrote:
> >
> > swultra wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all, I was looking at the pictures of john's plane and it appers that
> > > it doesn't have gap seals on the top of the wing ??????? Also awile back
> > > I asked if anybody new what happened to Jim Lee from Lakeland u/l
> > > Thanks Steve Ward Mark-3
> > -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Handle for the wings |
I tried installing the handle inside the wing tip that the fabric
attaches to and makes the end of the wing tip bow into a place to grab
on. I decided that I did not like the fact if I made it level with the
bottom of the wings it would have to be about 2 inches wide to not pull
the fabric down at the furthest point away from the wing tip. I
modified the suggestion about a handle in the trailing edge. I took a
6" section of 1x.058 tube and a 12" of 7/8x.035 tube. The smaller
slides inside the larger just perfectly. I cut a circle out of sheet
aluminum that matches the diameter of the trailing edge spar, I then cut
the small tube to have 2 tabs that stick up from the end (looks like a
castle tower with only 2 blocks on top), I bent these tabs in and
riveted the circle to these tabs. I then put the tubes together and put
a single rivet in the end of the small one to keep it from coming out.
I drilled a single 1/8 in hole on the inside of the rear spar 3" from
the end and inserted the tubes and injected the foam you get at the
store to seal up leaks in your house. If the tube wants to slide out
too easily I plan on squeezing it into a slight oval on the outer end.
This whole project took about an hour and used materials that were
provided with the kit, only time will tell if the foam is up the to task
of holding the handles in. My wing was already built and I used the 1"
tubing because it fits in and rests nicely on the 2 rows of rivets
installed for the wing tip gusset.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: On the pipe? |
On Wed, 8 Jul 1998, John Jung wrote:
> How do you separate "on-the-pipe" from the wing being "on-step"? Both
> the engine and the wing change efficiency with speed. I cruised my
> original 377 Firestar between 4,500 and 5,000 rpm. It was more efficient
On Wed, 8 Jul 1998, John Jung wrote:
> right. Tonight I flew at 5,500 rpm instead of 5,000 for over an hour to
> try to come closer to what works for you. My prop is adjusted for 6,300
Hi John,
Getting back to you on your last couple posts...
It is nice to see someone else (that was?) flying at the same rpm i
have been. :)
The wing "on step" versus engine "on pipe" issue is probably the core of
this discussion, that is, for the given airplane, don't go so slow as to
"lug" the engine. There has to be some detriment even to 2-strokes to
running them near 6000 most of the time, **if compared to the ability
to run at ~5000 without "lugging"**. (Lugging is maybe a non-word, but
you know what i mean, i.e. climbing a FS at 35mph, 4500rpm is lugging.)
Another thought too, is that people might assume that a 6000 rpm cruise
is a longer lasting engine cuz they feel it is smoother, but in fact,
the higher revs just mean higher frequency vibrations that are not as
noticable to the pilot. That's probably good for the pilot, but who's to
say it is good for the engine or plane? Bottom line, the higher revving
engine is doing more work and to me that means higher bearing loads.
I may be naive (and stubborn), but remain unconvinced for now that >5800
is better than ~5000, again assuming that 5000 is sort of the beginning
of the torque jump and is not lugging this particular airplane/prop.
It will be a couple weeks before I can really try the difference.
BTW, I'm not sure I agree with your "on the step" terminology for the
wing, but maybe I'm missing something here too. To me, "on step" sounds
like a float plane or boat, which is planing when on step, and plowing
when going slower than that. The analogous "on-step" in my mind for
an airplane is anything above stall. At all speeds above stall the
air over the wing is mostly smooth, and below "step" doesn't work for
airplanes cuz they don't float (in air).
I appreciate yours, JHauck's, and others comments ...nice to have a
polite, learning discussion here especially considering the big diff in
experience we all have ...me being on the low end.
Respectfully,
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Christensen" <spectruminternational(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift strut attach bolt in main wing spar MKIII |
Jason:
I installed the strut attach bolt nut down because I fabricated a tie-down
ring assembly which is held in place by the strut attach bolt & nut. This
installation technique was required because I didn't want to attach the
tie-down ring until the wing was covered with fabric. In order to prevent
the bolt from turning while tightening the nut, I cut a slot in the nut-end
of the bolt and used a heavy screwdriver to keep the bolt from turning. It
worked for me.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Date: Saturday, July 04, 1998 11:01 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Lift strut attach bolt in main wing spar MKIII
>How many of you installed this bolt "nut down"
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
>Jeff,
> You wrote:
>
>Perhaps you Kolbers having experience on the Rotax engines with single
>ignition could comment on how often one cylinder failure is a problem. Do
>spark plugs ever fail in airplane applications? Will those engines run on
>one cylinder?
I have had a coil failure twice on my Hirth.The RPM 's drop down to 3500.
This extends the glide and hopefully you are not over 7 ft. high corn -- but
thats another story.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
9 Jul 98 14:50:04 GMT+7
9 Jul 98 14:49:36 GMT+7
> From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Re: On the pipe
> Reply-to: jlbaker(at)telepath.com
> > BTW, 4 strokes do not benefit at all by the use of an expansion
> > chamber exhaust.
> >
>
> Just ask a drag racer to lop six inches off his headers.
>
I would never ask anyone to do that :-)
> Though the four stroke header doesn't look like a typical two-stroke
> chamber (header, divergent cone, mid section, convergent cone,
> stinger), most have a cross section that is a very shallowly tapered
> megaphone, which is, indeed, a tuned pipe section resulting in tuning
> effects.
>
> Sanitz, "Analysis of the Exhaust Process", ASME 73, April 1951
Yes, I agree with you. 4-strokes benefit from optimized exhaust
systems. However, these are not *expansion chambers*.
________________________________________________________________________________
9 Jul 98 15:03:58 GMT+7
9 Jul 98 15:03:30 GMT+7
> To: george(at)hov.org
> From: skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net>
> Subject: Re: On the pipe
> Cc: kolb(at)intrig.com
>
> George,
>
> >> 2 stroke engines, more so than "most" 4 strokes, require a certain ammount
> >> of backpressure to run at peak efficiency.
>
> >BTW, 4 strokes do not benefit at all by the use of an expansion
> >chamber exhaust.
>
> I tried to qualify my comments on 4 stroke engines by saying "most". :) Be
> that as it may, 4 stroke engines, in particular HI-REVING, HI-PERFORMANCE
> race engines, gain considerable power by using a "tuned" exhaust system.
> This is, ROUGHLY the equivalent, of the 2 stroke's expansion chamber when
> it comes to enhancing engine performance.
>
> A good exhaust system can, and will, help almost any engine. (single cycle
> "donkey engines" excluded. :)
>
> Regards,
> Skip
>
I agree with your comments.. If I
understand your message, 4-strokes benefit from an optimized (tuned)
exhaust system just as a 2-stroke benefits from an expansion
chamber. I agree. But I guess my point is that a tuned 4-stroke
exhaust increases HP by helping the engine get rid of exhaust. An
expansion chamber helps a 2-stroke by increasing the compression in
the manner mentioned in my original message. And this won't work in a
4-stroke because the exhaust valve will be closed.
Anyway, how this related to the original thread is that 2 strokes
have a certain "pipiness" (pipeyness?) due to all the above, that can
cause the problems related in the original message. Changing the
dimensions of the expansion chamber, or changing the engine RPM will
alleviate the problem...
-George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Christopher John Armstrong <tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax on the pipe |
Drag is a function of dynamic pressure which is one half the density of
the air times your speed squared. THat is why flying higher can reduce
drag so much. Air miles per gallon is the best way to determine
aircraft cruise efficency. brake specific fuel consumption is the best
way to determine engine efficency.
"On the step"? How about "in the drag bucket" That would be the
excepted "slang" terminology for operating a wing at its best lift to
drag ratio, where it operates most efficently. but again you should be
thinking of the whole plane not the wing or engine. fuslage drag varies
with AOA/airspeed as well. Keep the engine above ~1000 degrees to keep
it from carboning up, and then play with rpm/aoa untill you get the best
air miles per gallon and thats the most efficient place to cruise your
plane. Hauck talks about comfort. that would be noise, vibration from
engine and airframe and smoothness of controls... not neccesarily
efficency, but might be the best for the engine and plane and pilot for
endurance, which might be more importent. unless you like to crash?
I think you could tune your rotax to run at its best at just about any
rpm you want. When Hauck says he gets the best performance at 5800 you
have to take into account all the tuning decisions that he has made for
his prop and engine airframe. Another person will make different
decisions about props and tuning and get another sweetspot. The pipe
helps a bit but the standard rotax pipes are not a real optimized pipe.
Thats why those guys are able to sell a aftermarket pipe that jumps HP
10% or more across the whole rpm range. I dont think being on the pipe
is that big a deal for these engines, as much as being on your overall
tuned sweetspot. But I have absolutely zero time as owner of a rotax,
now I could tell you a little about the cuyuna 430...
Im a little behind in this descudssion so sorry if my comments are a bit
behind.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Oshkosh travelers,
How about 5:00 by Kolb on any given day? Who is going to make it to
Oshkosh?
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 31.9 hrs (8.1 to go)
SE Wisconsin
P.S. 10,000 ASL today
>
>Woody wrote:
>
> > OK guys whats the plan.We gotta get together at Osh Kosh sometime.I will
> >be there Sunday Monday and Tuesday.I learned long ago to avoid most of the
> >first weekend.There are a lot fewer people on the rest of the week so if you
> >want to see anything or talk to anyone there is less hassle doing it.The
> >campground across the road from the Ultralight area seems to be the best
> >deal and quite convenient.To get the ball rolling I will suggest meeting at
> >the Kolb tent at 5 on Sunday.
> > Woody
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I will try and fly up in the FS for Sun -Wed but its really weather dependent.
Headwinds do real nasty things to your progress.
Dick C StLouis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard neilsen" <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh -Reply |
I will be there, ok 5:00PM most days starting Saturday.
Dennis provides some of the best shade at Oshkosh and you even get to talk
to him if he's not sleeping.
Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII.
________________________________________________________________________________
I plan on driving and staying at the private campground across the street
from the ultra light parking area. I plan on arriving Tuesday evening and
procuring a lot of the incidentals for my Mark III project. We will depart
Sat sometime.
I will look forward to meeting some of you folk around 5:00 at the Kolb site.
Ron
>Oshkosh travelers,
> How about 5:00 by Kolb on any given day? Who is going to make it to
>Oshkosh?
>John Jung
>Firestar II N6163J 31.9 hrs (8.1 to go)
>SE Wisconsin
>P.S. 10,000 ASL today
>>
>>Woody wrote:
>>
>> > OK guys whats the plan.We gotta get together at Osh Kosh sometime.I will
>> >be there Sunday Monday and Tuesday.I learned long ago to avoid most of the
>> >first weekend.There are a lot fewer people on the rest of the week so
if you
>> >want to see anything or talk to anyone there is less hassle doing it.The
>> >campground across the road from the Ultralight area seems to be the best
>> >deal and quite convenient.To get the ball rolling I will suggest
meeting at
>> >the Kolb tent at 5 on Sunday.
>> > Woody
>>
>>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Kolbers:
What is the brand name of antifreeze that folks are using in 582s. The
book is emphatic about it being aluminum compatible. Is that hard to find?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
I use the regular automotive "Prestone" brand which claims on the bottle to
be alumina compatible.
However, during the 7 years using this in a 50/50 mix in my 582 and
replacing it after every season(60-70 hrs), I have found some corrosion on
the R/V shaft requiring replacement during the 300 hr overhaul and small
spots in the radiators that I had welded up.
Frank Reynen MarkIII @445 hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Osk Kosh Request |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
If it's convenient for someone, I'd be forever grateful for a couple
pictures of the re-drive that Del Cross has engineered for the Solo
engines on his Flyer. If Del is there, his orange & white Flyer is
usually parked in the 'antique u/l' area, when he's not in the pattern
-which is almost as much as the Kolb demo guys.
Thanx!
-Mick (maybe next year, maybe next year, maybe next year...) Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: fatality at NWEAA |
-----Original Message-----
From: Samuel Cox <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com>
USUAHQ(at)aol.com ; apsman(at)netheaven.com
; bencole(at)mindspring.com ;
capella1(at)flash.net ; hempy(at)ket.org ;
knafsngr(at)micron.net ; lclem(at)erols.com
; lightflyer(at)email.msn.com ;
lindy(at)snowhill.com ; ulpilot(at)navix.net
; vic(at)dcomp.com;
Date: Friday, July 10, 1998 12:47 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: fatality at NWEAA
>The pilot of the Hornet that crashed at Arlington was Terry Johnson.
>Anybody know if the Hornet was N-numbered?
>Paul :-)
>
>
>>From my other list re: the UL fatality:
><looking like a yellow Challenger/Hornet type, was doing a demo flight and
>did a classic departure stall into a spin
>on takeoff, at 100'AGL. When I was running the PA system I remember we
>were always getting
>after the ultralight manufacturers who insisted on doing max performance
>takeoffs and then
>steep turns at the top of the zoom. Remembering all the NWEAA net radio
>calls I made to the ultralight area telling them to ground that ultralight
>that just took off, I'm just sad tonight. Jim Scott Sr. ran a very tight
>show and he was always after them... and he ran the ultralight area the
>rest of the year there. I know the Scott family is mortified at this.
>And another family is grieving for a really stupid mistake and a pilot is
>gone from our midst. Next time you see a pilot do anything other than a
>safe and sane takeoff, remember this and talk to them... you made get some
>grief, but at least you will go to asleep soundly knowing you did
>everything you could to keep the safety record intact and a family happy
>for yet another day.>>
>
>
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------
>This message brought to you by the UL-Reps mailing list.
>This post is in no way representative of or affiliated with
>the United States Ultralight Association.
>For more info, please write to
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
Hate to brag........did anyone see the July EXPERIMENTER yet? The club I
belong to has a feature article on page 7. Also little known fact is that
another club member, and Kolb Firestar ll pilot won the Outstanding Light
Plane award at Lakeland. Not too bad considering he flew it 500 miles up and
back. He's our very own Chris Martin also from Miami, who sometimes
contributes to the Kolb group.
Rich Bragassa
Mk lll 85% finished ?
Miami, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Guys,
I plan on being at Oshkosh Thursday through Saturday. I will stop by each
day at 5.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
>Oshkosh travelers,
> How about 5:00 by Kolb on any given day? Who is going to make it to
>Oshkosh?
>John Jung
>Firestar II N6163J 31.9 hrs (8.1 to go)
>SE Wisconsin
>P.S. 10,000 ASL today
>>
>>Woody wrote:
>>
>> > OK guys whats the plan.We gotta get together at Osh Kosh
>sometime.I will
>> >be there Sunday Monday and Tuesday.I learned long ago to avoid most
>of the
>> >first weekend.There are a lot fewer people on the rest of the week
>so if you
>> >want to see anything or talk to anyone there is less hassle doing
>it.The
>> >campground across the road from the Ultralight area seems to be the
>best
>> >deal and quite convenient.To get the ball rolling I will suggest
>meeting at
>> >the Kolb tent at 5 on Sunday.
>> > Woody
>>
>>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | No reflections, no pictures |
Group,
Yesterday I added charcoal colered carpet to the floor of my Firestar
II. Why?, you ask. Because the floor is white and that causes a lot of
reflections in the full windshield. It wasn't a problem with the short
windshield. Actually I had added aluminum floor plates for passenger's
feet and went to buy carpet for them. For a few more dollars, I got a
piece big enough for the whole floor. It looks better than the bare
floor, reduced reflections, and should be easer to keep clean.
The other day I took the Firestar II to 10,000 ASL. My altimeter
stopped at 8,000 so I pulled out my GPS to monitor altitude. It said it
needed batteries, so I changed them, while flying. Then I pulled out my
digital camera, share with you, the view of cumulus clouds from above.
It needed batteries too, and the rest of my spares were back in the car.
So I won't be able to inspire the "low" flyers in the group yet.
Last night I tried the slow end of the cruise range. If you recall, I
normally cruise at 5,000 but had tried 5,500 because of input from the
group. I was just looking for deer, so I tried 4,600 rpm at 50 mph. It
was much quieter and I liked that. Even with ear protection, quieter is
better. But it would only work in smooth air, because of how quickly it
could slow to stall, in thermals or turbulent air. In smooth air I can
listen to the sound of the engine to maintain speed, not having to
constantly monitor the air speed.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 34.9 hrs (5.1 to go)
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh -Reply |
<<
Dennis provides some of the best shade at Oshkosh and you even get to talk to
him if he's not sleeping. >>
zzz z z z z z ... huh ... what ... whadahsay ... z z z z
z z zzz
Dennis (Oshkosh-siestas) Souder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh -Reply |
>
><<
> Dennis provides some of the best shade at Oshkosh and you even get to
talk to
>him if he's not sleeping. >>
>
>
> zzz z z z z z ... huh ... what ... whadahsay ... z z z z
>z z zzz
>
>Dennis (Oshkosh-siestas) Souder
Dennis wakes up when he gets in the Sling Shot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Trailer for a MKIII |
To all,
This fall we will be moving down to Central Texas. I have been looking for
a hanger at the airports in the nearby Marble Falls area and am having no
luck. There are waiting list and the price is a good bit higher (even if I
could get a hanger) than where I am now. What I am getting to is... Is
there anyone with a trailer for sale made for a MKIII or anyone that has or
knows of someone with a 24' box trailer with a drop back ramp anywhere in
the Tx/Ok/Ark/La area. I am in the market for one. It looks like I may have
to keep my Kolb at home unless a small miracle happens. It doesn't have to
look real pretty as long as it is servicable and dry inside.
Thanks!
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (49.8 hrs)
____________________|_____________________
___(+^+)___
(_)
8 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh -Reply |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>
> zzz z z z z z ... huh ... what ... whadahsay ... z z
>z z
>z z zzz
>
I thought it was the cheese curds more than the shade. Or it could be the
drone of those big radial engines during the afternoon airshow. Or the
twelve miles you covered up and down the flight line all day. Or the
overload of information you got in the vendor displays. Whatever, an
Oshkosh nap is a pretty good nap, worth the trip just to catch one,
..wish I was goin'!
Of course, a couple of ice-cold Chief Oshkosk malt brewskies after lunch
doesn't hurt either....
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seafoam treatment again |
55-59,61-68
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Ron and others,
I was wondering how you were coming along. It looks like you will be in
the air soon. Take your time and do a good job. I saw your message and
ran out to the car and got a can. I'll be darned, the address is right
here in Hopkins MN.
I have the can of Seafoam in front of me and I can see that I'm gonna
become known as Mr. Seafoam.
Yes Mick, I did wash out my keyboard with Seafoam and I noticed it
performs much better. Hmmmm, the label doesn't say anything about
keyboards ....... ....... &%^$#@(*&^%$##@ ....... duh, what's happening
.......??????
>From phone book:
Sea Foam Sales Co.
10401 E. Bren Road
Minnetonka, MN 55343
(612) 938-4811
Address on can:
Sea Foam Sales Co.
P.O. Box 5178
Hopkins, MN 55343-1178
Part # SF-16
It's a 16oz round can with a red and black label. It says:
"A 100% pure petroleum product for use in all gasoline and diesel type
engines both 2 and 4 cycle. Oxygen sensor safe.
Cleans dirty engine parts internally by removing harmful gums, varnish
and carbon buildup. Removes moisture from oil crankcases and fuel tanks.
Works and performs instantly.
Stabilizes and conditions fuels from becoming stale. Excellent for engine
storage."
The side of the can shows all types of engines from cars and trucks to
snowmobiles and chainsaws. It says that it can be added to the fuel tank,
oil, injected into the carb, or into the sparkplug hole. It's been
around since 1942.
I paid $4.69 for the can, but I see it on sale for $2.69. It's worth
every penny since I've seen what it does. I use a synthetic oil now in my
engine and I have not had a problem except that it fouled a plug the
first time I used it. This last time it didn't. I suggest using some old
plugs, then put in the new ones once the carbon has been blown out.
Ralph (Seafoam addict) Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
writes:
>Ralph, I was just sitting here telling a friend from Nevada about your
>Seafoam. Neither of us has ever heard of it, but we are both very
>interested in trying it. I have previously looked for it in auto supply
>store, but no dice. I wonder if you might send me some info off the
>label so that I can write the company for info on either a local
distributor
>or possibly buy it over the phone.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ron Carroll
>Original Firestar (4-coats of paint on it so far ( 2-Poly Brush,
>2-PolySpray, Tomorrow we start the Poly Tone)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Group,
It was a tough job, but somebody had to do it. I finished my 40 hours
today by logging 5.2 hours including one flight of 2.1 hrs. I took
yesterday off from this hard work, so I really "hit" it today. This gave
me a really good test of my seat modifications. I wasn't uncomfortable
today, so I'd say the plane is ready to travel. The only problem that
the plane has is it's brakes. The are the standard drumb brakes from
Kolb, and they are just not as good as I would like. My drums arn't
round and the brakes have a tendancy to hang up or stick. I think I'll
check out brake options at Oshkosh. There must be better brakes
available, I just don't know if I am willing to pay the price. Anyway,
if brakes are the biggest problem, the plane is essentially problem
free.
My total time, so far, from placing my order with Kolb, building the
Firestar, getting it signed off, and flying off the hours, is one week
short of a year. So for those of you that are currently building, or
thinking of building, these projects can get done.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 40.1 hrs (flying to Oshkosh)
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
A while back some one indicated he was trying a new Lightspeed 15K or 20K
headset.
How about some further reports on its effectiveness??
Pete Krotje
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
John:
I gave up on cheap mechanical brakes, always dragging etc. Got Hagar
brakes (hydraulic) and wheels. Got rid of brake and wheel bearing
problem all at once. But they ain't cheap!
PS. hydraulic brakes can, and will, lock your wheels if you activate them
as hard as mechanical brakes. Makes for "ideal 3-point" landings. Two
main wheels and nose! So be judicious with their use.
later
Bob D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Osh Kosh -Reply |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
Mick
Did you have any luck getting in touch with DEL CROSS about his re
drives he made for his KOLB FLYER he and I fly our KOLBS together .and
the take off run was short before but now it is real short with a good
climb rate,don't have any numbers ,but it is sure a lot better.
RICK LIBERSAT
>>
>> zzz z z z z z ... huh ... what ... whadahsay ... z z
>
>>z z
>>z z zzz
>>
>
>I thought it was the cheese curds more than the shade. Or it could be
>the drone of those big radial engines during the afternoon airshow. Or
>the twelve miles you covered up and down the flight line all day. Or
>the overload of information you got in the vendor displays. Whatever,
>an Oshkosh nap is a pretty good nap, worth the trip just to catch one,
>..wish I was goin'!
>
>Of course, a couple of ice-cold Chief Oshkosk malt brewskies after
>lunch doesn't hurt either....
>
>
>-Mick Fine
>Tulsa, Oklahoma
>http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
>Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
>http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trailer for a MKIII |
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com (RICK M LIBERSAT) |
CLIFF
If you need to borrow a trailer to move your M III you are more than
welcome to use mine . I think it was here , when you and Carolyn came by
. If it was not , well it here now. It is a 24' goose neck that I had
made just to haul the m/3
RICK LIBERSAT
writes:
>To all,
>
>This fall we will be moving down to Central Texas. I have been
>looking for
>a hanger at the airports in the nearby Marble Falls area and am having
>no
>luck. There are waiting list and the price is a good bit higher (even
>if I
>could get a hanger) than where I am now. What I am getting to is...
>Is
>there anyone with a trailer for sale made for a MKIII or anyone that
>has or
>knows of someone with a 24' box trailer with a drop back ramp anywhere
>in
>the Tx/Ok/Ark/La area. I am in the market for one. It looks like I
>may have
>to keep my Kolb at home unless a small miracle happens. It doesn't
>have to
>look real pretty as long as it is servicable and dry inside.
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>
>
>--
>Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
>(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
>and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
> Kolb MKIII - N582CC (49.8 hrs)
> ____________________|_____________________
> ___(+^+)___
> (_)
> 8 8
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALASKAGO(at)aol.com |
ALASKAGO(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kmead(at)up.net (Kent kathy Mead) |
Hi All:
I saw all the interest in foam padding for seats, so I thought I would come
out of hiding and let you know that I have some padding that might work well
for seats. It is very dense 3 layer foam about one inch thick. I use it for
all kinds of things like, sound deadening and seat repairs. I have it in my
firestar and it works great. If anyone would like to try it I will bring
some to Oshkosh with me. I have enough for about 6 seats and backs. The
price is right, FREE. Let me know if anyone is interested.
I also got my first flights two days ago, more like long crow hops. I did
about 6, 20 ft high 2000 ft long. What a rush! I didn't even bend the gear
legs. I had a few bouncer though. I hope in a week or two I will have It
down pat. I have lots of room to play, I am using are closed Air force base
to practice at 10,000 long 300 wide grass between active and taxiway, and no
traffic. It is a great place to practice. My strip is just about done, 750
long by 120 wide, I hope it is long enough? I have 40 ft trees at both ends.
I hope to see you all at oshkosh at the end of the month. I will be there
fri, sat, sun, at 5PM, Kolb tent. Later.
Kent
1985 Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net> |
| Subject: | spark plug gaskets/drain hole |
Hi Listers,
I like to check my plugs quite often. I have been told that after 2 or 3
removals/reinstalls, one should use new plug-gaskets. Do you agree and
where does one buy them?
Stits covering on a Twinstar: I want put a little drain hole at the
bottom of the cabin. Can I just use a soldering iron and it won't tear
afterwards?
Gerald
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gerald Nelson <gdnelson(at)agt.net> |
| Subject: | spark plug gaskets/drain hole-2nd try. |
I am sending this a 2nd time, i don't think the first one went!!
Gerald
Hi Listers,
I like to check my plugs quite often. I have been told that after 2 or 3
removals/reinstalls, one should use new plug-gaskets. Do you agree and
where does one buy them?
Stits covering on a Twinstar: I want put a little drain hole at the
bottom of the cabin. Can I just use a soldering iron and it won't tear
afterwards?
Gerald
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
Haven't gotten any Kolb mail for awhile. Is the list down?
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jon silvius <svultralight(at)snowcrest.net> |
QUESTION: as I'm tinkering with "lean" on the carb needle jet, when i
compare it with the book (i.e. CPS), the diagram show 3 slots with which to
clip on the clip. however, on the needles out of my Bing 54 there are 4
slots. Am I dreaming or should I be taking advantage of the 4th groove and
seek the lean I'm looking for (CHT at 325-340, but EGT is a steady
975-1000. Looking for a bit hotter on the EGT). Any suggestions>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALASKAGO(at)aol.com |
kolb(at)intrig.com
alaskago(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GERKEN(at)RCHVMX.VNET.IBM.COM |
| Subject: | Fuel, range, airspeed |
This weekend,,,
I did a bunch of measurements recording indicated airspeed, RPM, and GPS
groundspeed, and then made a chart this weekend. All this data is for a
Mkiii with "C" box @ 2.62:1, Powerfin 3-blade pitched for 6250 static, on
the 582 with HAC, measurements made at 2500 MSL in 75 degree air flying solo.
Then I added the fuel consumption figures, from the CPS catalog, which are
hopefully close, although I'd love to learn they are too high. I will be
checking my actual consumption soon.
Several conclusions from the data/chart:
- My airspeed is reading about 5 mph low. This doesn't
worry me too much and I have no plans to change it. I may lower the VNE
marking from 100 to 95. This is with the static port plumbed to a position
under the cabin, and the usual 7" long pitot out front of the f/g nose.
- My fuel economy is not as good as I would like to see it. The best I can
get is 20 miles per gallon but don't get too excited because this is with
the 582 throttled back to 4800 RPM and flying only 50 mph. With the stock
10 gallon capacity, this gives 200 miles range with no reserve. When I kick
it up to my normal cruise RPM of 5800, the economy drops to 12.75 mpg (or
127 miles on a tank). This is at 70 mph GPS (65 indicated).
- Top speed as it is propped today is 80 mph at 6400 RPM, gobbling the fuel
at about 6.75 gallons per hour, according to CPS fuel consumption figures.
Climb rate seems great but I can't give you exact figures, yet.
- The curve of fuel consumption vs airspeed is quite linear. Before I checked
it out I figured there would be a sweet-spot in the middle. The only way to
extend the range is to slow down it seems. How boring.
The testing will continue now with exact fuel consumption and I will try to
check vertical airspeed.
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DLSOUDER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FS II seat modifications? |
<< Has anyone else been dissatisfied with the FSII
seat, and what have you done to solve it? >>
Almost let this opportunity slip by. Several years ago I saw something that
might alieve the problem. The gentleman had a meticuliously built and
maintained FireStar and had installed a captains chair from a van in place the
the stock seat. He reported that it was very comfortable. I tried it on for
size and indeed it was very nice. Now if I could only find room for that nice
fold down bed ....
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALASKAGO(at)aol.com |
alaskago(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard neilsen" <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
** For Your Eyes Only **
I sent this a few day ago but it didn't seem to go anywere. I just about
didn't resend (some thing about telling everyone about doing stupid
stuff).
I tried my first full flap landing last weekend. It's unbelievable how
high the decent rate is with full flaps. I panicked and my general
aviation experience kicked in. I started my flare too high and stalled it.
I was able to recover but not with enough air speed for a soft landing. I
bent the landing gear, nose skid, and the bottom fuselage cage tube behind
the left main gear socket. I severely damaged my pride but nothing else.
In retrospect using full flaps appears to require a lot of extra airspeed
and considerable composure to be able to dive at a high speed (app. 20MPH
over stall speed ?????) down close to the ground before starting your
flare. I have done a number of landings with one notch of flaps and this
went well and is much less exciting. I also hadn't done a full flap stall
at altitude which I now view as stupid.
To those that haven't used full flaps yet please use caution. Try a
simulated flare (without power) with some altitude and hold it till it
stalls, your air speed bleeds off real fast. It stalls jently but if your
close to the ground it doesn't seem like it. It could have been much
worse.
Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII with retracted (bent) landing gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Gross <RPGross(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer for a MKIII |
Hi Cliff,
I bought my FS in April from a guy who wanted to sell me the custom
trailer he had built for it, but I did not. It kinda cool, painted
black, and has a little camper set up inside. His name is Gaylord James
from Baton Rouge. his phone number is...504-344-7099
Good luck!
Bob Gross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Jon,
The 4th slot is richer not leaner. When the clip moves down the
needle moves up, leaving less diameter in the needle jet. Less needle
diameter is a bigger opening meaning more gas. Also, I wouldn't trust
your EGT unless it has been tested for accuracy. I have two Westach
senders that read 200 degrees different (single carb, one gage) and as I
asked others, I found out that it is not uncommon.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 40.1 hours (no more restriction)
SE Wisconsin
>
>jon silvius wrote:
>
> QUESTION: as I'm tinkering with "lean" on the carb needle jet, when i
> compare it with the book (i.e. CPS), the diagram show 3 slots with which to
> clip on the clip. however, on the needles out of my Bing 54 there are 4
> slots. Am I dreaming or should I be taking advantage of the 4th groove and
> seek the lean I'm looking for (CHT at 325-340, but EGT is a steady
> 975-1000. Looking for a bit hotter on the EGT). Any suggestions>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: spark plug gaskets/drain hole |
Gerald,
Is there a reason to check so often? My experience with lugs is that
they are not worth looking at much less cleaning. If you remove them,
replace them. And I only replace mine once a year.
Yes, you can and no, it won't, on the drain hole question.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 40.1 hours (no more restriction)
SE Wisconsin
>
>Gerald Nelson wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
> I like to check my plugs quite often. I have been told that after 2 or 3
> removals/reinstalls, one should use new plug-gaskets. Do you agree and
> where does one buy them?
> Stits covering on a Twinstar: I want put a little drain hole at the
> bottom of the cabin. Can I just use a soldering iron and it won't tear
> afterwards?
> Gerald
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard neilsen" <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
** For Your Eyes Only **
I tried my first full flap landing last weekend. Its unbelievable how high
the decent rate is with full flaps. I panicked and my general aviation
experience kicked in. I started my flare too high and stalled it. I was
able to recover but not with enough air speed for a soft landing. I bent
the landing gear, nose skid, and the bottom fuselage tube behind the left
main gear socket. I severely damaged my pride but nothing else.
In retrospect using full flaps appears to require a lot of extra airspeed
and considerable composure to be able to dive at a high speed (app. 20MPH
over stall ?????) down close to the ground before starting your flair. I
have done a number of landings with one notch of flaps and this went well
and is much less exciting. I also hadn't done a full flap stall at
altitude which I now view as stupid.
To those that haven't used full flaps yet please use caution it could be
worse.
Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII with retracted landing gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foam Padding |
Kent,
I am interested in enough foam for one seat. And I can afford it.
I'll see you at Oshkosh at 5:00 on Friday.
As far as the 750' runway with 40' trees on the ends, cut down the
trees or they will get you. I flew my origianl 377 Firestar out of a
500 ft strip for 3 years, but I had 700 more feet off the end before a
tree line. If you don't believe me, talk to more poeople about this,
before you try it.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 40.1 hours (no more restriction)
SE Wisconsin
>
>.Kent kathy Mead wrote:
>
> Hi All:
> I saw all the interest in foam padding for seats, so I thought I would come
> out of hiding and let you know that I have some padding that might work well
> for seats. It is very dense 3 layer foam about one inch thick. I use it for
> all kinds of things like, sound deadening and seat repairs. I have it in my
> firestar and it works great. If anyone would like to try it I will bring
> some to Oshkosh with me. I have enough for about 6 seats and backs. The
> price is right, FREE. Let me know if anyone is interested.
> I also got my first flights two days ago, more like long crow hops. I did
> about 6, 20 ft high 2000 ft long. What a rush! I didn't even bend the gear
> legs. I had a few bouncer though. I hope in a week or two I will have It
> down pat. I have lots of room to play, I am using are closed Air force base
> to practice at 10,000 long 300 wide grass between active and taxiway, and no
> traffic. It is a great place to practice. My strip is just about done, 750
> long by 120 wide, I hope it is long enough? I have 40 ft trees at both ends.
> I hope to see you all at oshkosh at the end of the month. I will be there
> fri, sat, sun, at 5PM, Kolb tent. Later.
> Kent
> 1985 Firestar
>
> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FS II seat modifications? |
>
><< Has anyone else been dissatisfied with the FSII
> seat, and what have you done to solve it? >>
>
>
>Almost let this opportunity slip by. Several years ago I saw something that
>might alieve the problem. The gentleman had a meticuliously built and
>maintained FireStar and had installed a captains chair from a van in place the
>the stock seat. He reported that it was very comfortable. I tried it on for
>size and indeed it was very nice. Now if I could only find room for that nice
>fold down bed ....
>
That may get rid of some of the tail heavyness some builders have
reported.Its a lot better than 20 lbs. of lead in the nose.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spark plug gaskets/drain hole |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Gerald and John,
I agree with John J, in that I don't check my plugs anymore. This plug
checking procedure originates from days of old when leaded gas and
heavier oil mixes were used. It's not necessary anymore with todays
unleaded fuels and new oils. It's still true that a plug reading will be
the best indicator of the mixture burn in the cylinders, but if
everything is set properly and the engine starts well, there isn't a need
to take them out. I change them about every 30 hrs, which is
approximately the amount of time I will fly in a year.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
>Gerald, Is there a reason to check so often? My experience with lugs is
>that they are not worth looking at much less cleaning. If you remove
them,
>replace them. And I only replace mine once a year.
> Yes, you can and no, it won't, on the drain hole question.
>John Jung
>Firestar II N6163J 40.1 hours (no more restriction)
>SE Wisconsin
>
>>
>>Gerald Nelson wrote:
>>
>> Hi Listers,
>> I like to check my plugs quite often. I have been told that after 2
>>or 3 removals/reinstalls, one should use new plug-gaskets. Do you agree
>>and where does one buy them?
>>Stits covering on a Twinstar: I want put a little drain hole at the
>>bottom of the cabin. Can I just use a soldering iron and it won't
>>tear afterwards?
>> Gerald
>> -
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Foam Padding |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>
>.... My strip is just about done,
>750
>long by 120 wide, I hope it is long enough? I have 40 ft trees at both
>ends....
Congrats Kent!,
Glad to have another crow-hop "survivor" on the list ;-)
Don't let me spoil the mood but your home strip sounds pretty short to
me. Maybe someone with more experience should comment but I think you'll
be hard pressed to get in & out of it without getting a few splinters
sooner or later. The plane may be technically capable of it when
everything is perfect but you'll have nearly no margin for error or
sub-maximum performance, IMHO.
The 2-stroke motto is still, "When ...Not If."
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CHRISTOPHER DAVIS" <cdavis2(at)capecod.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Foam Padding |
Hi Kent nice little landing field you have to practice on 10000 ft! Two
things on my mind #1 cut down those trees! not that it can't be done but why
push your luck? #2 I'd sure like to try a piece of that foam see you at the
KOLB tent ,thanks for the offer .Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Kent kathy Mead <kmead(at)up.net>
Date: Wednesday, July 15, 1998 11:30 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Foam Padding
> Hi All:
>I saw all the interest in foam padding for seats, so I thought I would come
>out of hiding and let you know that I have some padding that might work
well
>for seats. It is very dense 3 layer foam about one inch thick. I use it for
>all kinds of things like, sound deadening and seat repairs. I have it in my
>firestar and it works great. If anyone would like to try it I will bring
>some to Oshkosh with me. I have enough for about 6 seats and backs. The
>price is right, FREE. Let me know if anyone is interested.
>I also got my first flights two days ago, more like long crow hops. I did
>about 6, 20 ft high 2000 ft long. What a rush! I didn't even bend the gear
>legs. I had a few bouncer though. I hope in a week or two I will have It
>down pat. I have lots of room to play, I am using are closed Air force base
>to practice at 10,000 long 300 wide grass between active and taxiway, and
no
>traffic. It is a great place to practice. My strip is just about done, 750
>long by 120 wide, I hope it is long enough? I have 40 ft trees at both
ends.
>I hope to see you all at oshkosh at the end of the month. I will be there
>fri, sat, sun, at 5PM, Kolb tent. Later.
>Kent
>1985 Firestar
>
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CHRISTOPHER DAVIS" <cdavis2(at)capecod.net> |
Excuse my ignorance but what is ALASKAGO? Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: ALASKAGO(at)aol.com <ALASKAGO(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 15, 1998 11:56 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: x
>kolb(at)intrig.com
>alaskago(at)aol.com
>-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Foam Padding |
> Hi All:
>I saw all the interest in foam padding for seats, so I thought I would come
>out of hiding and let you know that I have some padding that might work well
>for seats. It is very dense 3 layer foam about one inch thick. I use it for
>all kinds of things like, sound deadening and seat repairs. I have it in my
>firestar and it works great. If anyone would like to try it I will bring
>some to Oshkosh with me. I have enough for about 6 seats and backs. The
>price is right, FREE. Let me know if anyone is interested.
Hold a couple bits for me.6x15x 2 pc. would be great but I'll take what I
can get.There is a cross bar in the Twinstar that starts digging into my
shoulderblade after about 1\2 hour. This padding may fix it.If you have it
leave it at the kolb tent with my name on it and I can pick it up.There is
room in my car for 2 more people if anyone wants to meet me in the Windsor
Detroit area.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Foam Padding |
<< Kent,
I am interested in enough foam for one seat. And I can afford it.
I'll see you at Oshkosh at 5:00 on Friday.
As far as the 750' runway with 40' trees on the ends, cut down the
trees or they will get you. I flew my origianl 377 Firestar out of a
500 ft strip for 3 years, but I had 700 more feet off the end before a
tree line. If you don't believe me, talk to more poeople about this,
before you try it.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 40.1 hours (no more restriction)
SE Wisconsin >>
I agree with Mr Jung.....750 and 40 ft trees are ok to take off on with a
firestar but not to land. at some point you'll bend something around the nose
area on a landing and certainly the gears will suffer as you feel cramped
coming in. I know I would have a rough time landing
there....................GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>
>... Am I dreaming or should I be taking advantage of the 4th
>groove and
>seek the lean I'm looking for ...
Hello Jon,
The CPS catalog shows a main needle with 3 grooves but that's the only
place I've ever seen one ('course I ain't seen 'em all!). My 447 and my
503 have 4 grooves in the needle. Forget about groove 1-2-3-4, just
remember, higher (vertically) needle = richer mixture and this only
applies for low and mid-range throttle settings. At nearly full to full
open throttle, the EGT is dependant on main jet size.
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spark plug gaskets/drain hole |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>
>.... Also, I wouldn't trust
>your EGT unless it has been tested for accuracy. I have two Westach
>senders that read 200 degrees different (single carb, one gage) and as
>I asked others, I found out that it is not uncommon.
Then,
writes:
>
>.... I don't check my plugs anymore. This plug
>checking procedure originates from days of old when leaded gas and
>heavier oil mixes were used....
Ralph and John J.,
I think it's still good practice to pull the plugs periodically, just to
satisfy yourself that you've not offended the fire god.
My Flyer has 2 Westach EGT gauges, 2 probes, and uh.. 2 engines. Since
day one, I noticed a 100-150 difference between engines. After swapping
probes and then gauges, I found that the engines and probes were fine,
the difference was in the gauges (go figure..). So, I still pull my plugs
every 10 hours or so just to have a look. The Solo engines use fuel mixed
at 32:1 and when the jets are set right, the plugs look identical to the
plugs from a 'set-right' Rotax burning 50:1, so do the plugs from my 1960
Johnson outboard (also 32:1). I don't think plug condition should be
ignored just because we've got past the old days of 'oilier' fuel mixes.
I inspect my plugs 5 or 6 times before replacing them. I just use the old
seal-rings and haven't had a problem. I also put a small dab of
anti-seize compound (just a 'dab' ..not all gooped-up) on the plug
threads. When reinstalling, 20ft-lbs of torque is what CPS says and
that's not 'gorilla-force' despite what I see a lot of people doing.
Over-torquing might wear-out the seal ring sooner but it's just a guess.
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us> |
| Subject: | Ramapo Valley fly-in |
Can anyone give me an address on this fly-in in NY State? I need
something that I can map out on the web and get an idea how to get
there. Last I heard the event was July 25th.
Thanks for the help
Gary
=========================================================================
| Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us |
| Souderton Pa. | |
| | |
=========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.Com> |
kolb mail list
| Subject: | RE: Ramapo Valley fly-in |
Almost everything is on the web.
>From http://www.ulflyingmag.com/calendar.html = July 25: Ramapo Valley
Ultralight Club Fly-In, Bloomingburg, New York. Information: Paul Holtz,
(914) 623-8619
Using http://www.terraserver.microsoft.com/GetPageByPlace.asp, entering
"ramapo" "ny" "usa", you not only get the longitude and latitude for a
"Ramapo Airport"
http://www.terraserver.microsoft.com/GetOrigMeta.asp?OrigMetaId=154191&SrcId
=1&Width=225&Height=150&ImgSize=0&DSize=1
but a view of the airport site...
http://www.terraserver.microsoft.com/GetTilesByXY.asp?XId=9539&YId=3792&Tile
X=0&TileY=0&SrcId=1&ImgDate=03/13/1995&DSize=1
(Though I have to confess I don't make out a runway.)
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Thacker [mailto:gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us]
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 1998 10:29 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Ramapo Valley fly-in
Can anyone give me an address on this fly-in in NY State? I need
something that I can map out on the web and get an idea how to get
there. Last I heard the event was July 25th.
Thanks for the help
Gary
=========================================================================
| Gary Thacker | gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us |
| Souderton Pa. | |
| | |
=========================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
Just FYI, Found out today that if you trailer your plane into Oshkosh instead
of flying that you have to get a gate pass signed by Tom Poberesny (spelling?)
to get it onto the field.
Dick C StLouis
________________________________________________________________________________
Scott.Pierskalla(at)HBC.honeywell.com, dwegner(at)isd.net
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Kolbers,
This prompts a recent flying story about short strips. My Original
FireStar has no brakes and I was invited into a friends 700' grass strip
this past spring and since I had been in and out of there many times, I
thought it would be a piece of cake. This east-west strip has 40' trees
at the west end and is unobstructed with a ditch at the east end. Most of
the times I've landed at the east end. That particular day had a 5 mph
breeze out of the east, so I circled the strip and planned a downwind
landing thinking my rollout will be within the length of the strip and I
didn't want to fly over those trees. As I set up my approach I noticed my
groundspeed was faster than normal, but that was expected. I touched
right at the threshold and continued rolling past the turnoff and coming
up fast on those trees! I shut of the engine and rolled into some taller
weeds off the runway to slow down. I stopped short of the trees by about
75'. There were four guys witnessing this and they all asked why I landed
downwind? I told them I thought the wind was lighter than it was.
This taught me a good lesson (as if I didn't know, duh): Always land
into the wind no matter what the situation may be.
A few weeks later I landed again at this strip into a 15 mph east wind
and over the trees. I was able to stop in half the length of the runway.
If there is anything good to be said about a headwind, this would be it.
Ralph "Downwind Charlie" Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jon silvius <svultralight(at)snowcrest.net> |
No, this is not political!!!!!!! What devices have you created for your
craft on which to "hang your earphones". My RANS doesn't have anything and
the cords are just a tich short that it looks like they're pulling a bit
when lying down on seats. I'd like to find something from which to hang
them. Any cleaver ideas? JON from along the border
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jchull(at)juno.com (John C Hull) |
Hello all, I have been interested in building my own light plane for some
time now. My interests have varied from the Mark III to an RV6. I know
that I cannot afford the RV right now and my interests are in something
simple and efficient. I have recently become interested in the Laser and
I am sure that I will wait until I can talk to a few builders and flyers
before I entertain that thought. The Laser might be the ticket for good
cruise and so forth, but I still wonder about the Mark III. Just tell me,
is this just a fair weather machine? Can the average pilot fly it on
choppy days? How does it handle a cross wind? any input would be greatly
appreciated.
'Preciate it,
John Hull (Kolb Pilot to be)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kmead(at)up.net (Kent kathy Mead) |
Hi Guys;
All the guys that wanted foam padding, I have you covered. I want to thank
you all for the advice on my runway, I don't think I can get more than 300
more feet out of it. The people around here want to keep there trees. I
guess if worst comes to worst we have another grass strip 3 miles away I can
use. Sure would be nice to fly out of my backyard though.
The next calm night I have I will go for the gusto and fly high, I,m ready
for it. See you all at Oshkosh. Look for the short guy in a gray camo ball
cap with M&M Taxidermy on it, thats me. Later
Kent
1985 Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>
>I still wonder about the Mark III. Just tell me,
>is this just a fair weather machine? Can the average pilot fly it on
>choppy days? How does it handle a cross wind? any input would be greatly
>appreciated.
>
>'Preciate it,
>
>John Hull (Kolb Pilot to be)
I'm planning to fly mine from east Tennessee to Oshkosh, and I
wouldn't claim to be more than an average pilot. I leave it to your
imagination as to whether or not we will find any chop or cross winds along
the way...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>_____________________________________________________________________
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Well we have whittled down the flight by a few, but there are still
3 of us going to Oshkosh. There will be one MKIII and 2 Maxair Drifters.
We are planning to leave Kingsport Tennessee on Monday morning July 27.
First stop will be London, Kentucky.
Next stop will be Frankfort, Kentucky.
Third stop will be Columbus Bakalar, Indiana, and lunch.
Depending on weather, we will either continue on northwest to
Frankfort, Indiana.
Then to Layfayette and stop for the day.
Or instead go north to Kokomo, Indiana.
Then stop at Rochester, Indiana for the night so that we can go to
the Popular Rotorcraft Museum at Mentone the next morning.
Tuersday we will leave Mentone and stop at Sanger, Illinois.
Then we stop for Lunch at Morris-Washburn, Illinois.
Next stop is at Beloit, Wisconsin.
Next stop is Dodge County, Wisconsin.
Then into Oshkosh after the 6:15 reopening of arrivals.
If we spend the night in Layfayette, Indiana, then our next stop is
Kankakee, Illinois.
Then Morris-Washburn, etc.
If the weather Monday the 27th is unflyable, then we will start Tuesday.
If there is any interest in anyone joining up with us, post it, and
I will have a voice mail for updates on when and where we are, etc
in a few days.
Because of the logistics of how things are working out, we will not
be able top offer ground support, etc for anybody that wants to join in.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Hi John,
I fly the original single seat FireStar and have 30 hrs in the Mark II.
Both of these machines have the capability to handle winds very well and
is strictly dependent on the pilots' skill level. The higher the wind
speed, the more skill required. Since Kolbs have a fuselage tube instead
of a structured side, this area is less than other types of aircraft.
This results in better crosswind handling. I've flown my FireStar in 25
mph winds and have landed in 15 mph crosswinds. A few weeks ago I
attended a fly-in where the winds were blowing 20 mph and gusting to 25.
The wind lifted my buddys FireStar wing while it was parked. There were
GA pilots that didn't fly their planes because it was too windy. I'm
sure the
Mark III, with 2 people, will handle rough conditions even better than my
single seat. All light aircraft are far more susceptible to atmospheric
turbulence than heavier craft. This requires a special skill and
confidence in the aircraft that it will "get you there and back again".
I have to say my little FireStar has done just that many times over with
a Rotax 377 35hp engine.
I'm just an average guy who likes to fly.
Did I answer your question?
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar 400 hrs
>Hello all, I have been interested in building my own light plane for
>some time now. My interests have varied from the Mark III to an RV6. I
>know that I cannot afford the RV right now and my interests are in
>something simple and efficient. I have recently become interested in
>the Laser and I am sure that I will wait until I can talk to a few
June 24, 1998 - July 16, 1998
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-as