Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bb
October 28, 1998 - November 16, 1998
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
Bill, I understand your opinion, after reading my post. Its funny how we
can completely understand what we are trying to put on paper, but can't
understand what someone else may mean when they do the same (this is a
perfect example). I should have expanded on what I meant by including:
"The Rest of
the Story".
Not only was the fuel level in the bowl low, but when I later tried to check
if the fuel pump would hold vacuum, it wouldn't. I sucked on the hose,
expecting to get some resistance and then place my tongue over the tube to
see how long it would hold. However, I just kept on sucking with NO VACUUM
buildup. I believe the diaphragm is defective. If it has a hole or a crack
in it it would be unable to pump adequate fuel for full throttle run-up.
Sorry for not including all the information the first time around.
Ron Carroll
Original Firestar
From: WVarnes(at)aol.com <WVarnes(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday October 28 1998 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Seizure in flight
>
>Ron Carroll
>
>You wrote>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>For what its worth, I just recently had a SECOND seizure during the full
>throttle portion of the Rotax break-in procedure. I believe that the
source
>of the problem was the fuel pump's inability to supply adequate fuel for
>full throttle operation. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
>
>
>First of all I'm glad to hear that you finally got your engine back
together
>from the first seizure you had some time ago.
>
>As for your second seizure, I don't think you should blame it on the fuel
>pump. Two strokes can run out of fuel and there will still be enough
residual
>oil lubrication to prevent a seizure. Better look for something else!
(IMHO)
>
>Bill Varnes
>Original FireStar 377 300+ hours
>Audubon NJ
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Ron,
When you are running it up for break-in, please make sure the engine has
idled for at least 5 minutes, then during the higher rpm runups watch the
EGT first. If it looks like it's going into the 1300 deg range, back off
the throttle immediately. When I ran up my 447, the EGT was initially
getting up there so I reduced throttle and "slowly" worked my upwards. If
I had pushed it, I too would have had a seizure. During a normal
preflight I will run the engine for about 4 minutes, then shut it off and
do a walk-around. In the meantime, the engine is dissipating its heat
throughout the crankcase so when it's time for takeoff, I won't have to
be concerned with a cold seizure.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
writes:
>
>
>For what its worth, I just recently had a SECOND seizure during the
>full throttle portion of the Rotax break-in procedure. I believe that
the
>source of the problem was the fuel pump's inability to supply adequate
fuel
>for full throttle operation. As I've read in the list in the past, a
new
>fuel pump is an inexpensive way to take care of poor fuel flow problems.
>I changed from the originally supplied Mikuni single to the Mikuni dual
>pump. I will start the third try at breaking in the engine later on
today,
>or early tomorrow. This seizing up is getting a little old (and
>expensive).
>
>Ron Carroll
>Original Firestar
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | kolb-list inflight engine out Part 2 |
Richard,sorry for the double posting to you due to a wrong mailing adress
return. Please disregard.
Frank Reynen wrote;
I could have used that altitude last Friday when my 582 Rotax quit abruptly
and without much of a warning during take-off at 25 ft altitude with WOT.
Richard wrote:
Others on the list are curious as to why it quit. I am EXTRA
curious
The plane was towed back to my house with both of us still in it by local
fishermen in a pontoonboat and we removed the wings and engine since
it is difficult to work on the engine while in drydock. Sofar I have
eliminated fuel and oil starvation and cooling water as the radiator
was completely full and there was a visible quantity of injection oil
in the intake bores and fuel in the bowls at normal level.The
throttle and choke action was checked and found to be working normal.
One sparkplug for each cyl. was removed to separate the CHT sensors
and the sparkplugs looked normal with small amount of carbon deposit
and slightly oil covered from 50 hrs use since new installed in May
this year when the last decarbon (with the heads removed) had been
completed.The engine can be rotated by hand by the prop shaft and a
quick check with tumb covering the sparkplug holes indicates
compression in both cylinders but a more comprehensive compression
check and ignition diagnosis will be done once the engine is moved to
my workbench next week when I will remove the exhaust and the head.
Stay tuned!
The Full Lotus float and support tubes on the left side took quite a blow
and the front end of the float is bend up at a 20 degr angle but it
did not break open or leak from any of the four bladders and a
fiberglass float would surely have not survived this well. I think I
will keep them and trust and recommend them even more than before.The
gross take off weight of my MKIII on floats with 12 Gall fuel and
340# occupants with radio gear is calculated to be a full 1000
lbs.The airframe and wings appear undamaged with the exeption of a
broken left rudder pedal and bend left axle to which the float is
attached but once the plane is in the shop and the floats removed I
will give it a thorough inspection and report on it.
DENNIS, it appears that the extra braces we put in years ago to prevent
the
bottom cage tubes from collapsing in this type of hard float landing
really held up well and it now payed off .
Frank Reynen MKIII(at)485.1 hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
P.S. Donations to the (ReynenMKIII repair fund) will be accepted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Kiger" <edkiger(at)mwaz.com> |
| Subject: | Black Mesa Flyers Open House |
Central Arizona or near by: Check this out.
FLY IN http://www.homestead.com/boxK/openhouse.html
Ed Kiger
edkiger(at)mwaz.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
>On the negative side... I dont know if its imbalance or what... but when
>reaching t/o speed and just leaving the ground, you get a real shaking and
>vibration .... diminishes shortly after airborne... so not a big deal but
>would love if someone has a remedy for this.....
>
>
>
>
> I've mentioned this before but if you take off to fast you may be banging
the tailwheel as you lift off. This will cause a bad shaking for a few seconds.
Woody
Some men are able to stumble over the truth but are able to pick
themselves up and keep walking as if nothing had happened. (Churchill)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | UL Airport directory |
>
>Might I suggest that everyone simply provide identifiers, and review the
>information currently stored in http://www.airnav.com/ . That web site is
>very extensive, and is already updated. Trying to duplicate it is not only
>unnecessary, but would eventually have obsolete information distributed.
>
Do they separate the UL friendly airstrips? How about adding private
airstrips? 1500 ft runway and free camping in my backyard if anyone wants it.
Woody
Some men are able to stumble over the truth but are able to pick
themselves up and keep walking as if nothing had happened. (Churchill)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
Ron why not up the jet size 10 points and raise the needle until its got some
time on it?
Dick C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Geezer810(at)aol.com |
I have some vibration also, but as soon as I am airborne, just touch the
brakes, the wheels stop and the vibration is gone.
Harry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
>
>>On the negative side... I dont know if its imbalance or what
I would bet it is wheel/tire imbalance. Mine does it too if I let it. All I
have to do is touch the brakes and it dissapears. If I touch them just
after take off, it doesn't even occur. ...and yes, you can bang your tail
wheel down on the ground if you rotate too quickly.
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (50.5 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
Thanks for the advice, Ralph. The EGT never got higher than 1150 throughout
the break-in. I was 2-1/2 minutes into the final full throttle run and the
EGT read 1150, the CHT read 425. I made another startling discovery this
evening while working on the plane. I took the fuel pump apart to see if I
could detect the problem It looked perfect. In fact, I learned that the
pump has a very small hole that leads to the dry side of the diaphragm
apparently to allow it to 'breathe' back and forth. Now I'm back to square
one in not knowing what caused the seizure. It still may have been the
pump because the fuel level was LOW immediately after the seizure, and I
wasn't out of gas, as was earlier assumed.
Ron Carroll
Original Firestar
From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Date: Wednesday October 28 1998 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Seizure in flight
>
>Ron,
>
>When you are running it up for break-in, please make sure the engine has
>idled for at least 5 minutes, then during the higher rpm runups watch the
>EGT first. If it looks like it's going into the 1300 deg range, back off
>the throttle immediately. When I ran up my 447, the EGT was initially
>getting up there so I reduced throttle and "slowly" worked my upwards. If
>I had pushed it, I too would have had a seizure. During a normal
>preflight I will run the engine for about 4 minutes, then shut it off and
>do a walk-around. In the meantime, the engine is dissipating its heat
>throughout the crankcase so when it's time for takeoff, I won't have to
>be concerned with a cold seizure.
>
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original FireStar, 447 powered
>
>
>
> writes:
>>
>>
>>For what its worth, I just recently had a SECOND seizure during the
>>full throttle portion of the Rotax break-in procedure. I believe that
>the
>>source of the problem was the fuel pump's inability to supply adequate
>fuel
>>for full throttle operation. As I've read in the list in the past, a
>new
>>fuel pump is an inexpensive way to take care of poor fuel flow problems.
>
>>I changed from the originally supplied Mikuni single to the Mikuni dual
>>pump. I will start the third try at breaking in the engine later on
>today,
>>or early tomorrow. This seizing up is getting a little old (and
>>expensive).
>>
>>Ron Carroll
>>Original Firestar
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
Good thinking, but I already have done these. Sort of has us stumped for
now. I hope to have good news after tomorrow's scheduled third try sat the
break in.
Thanks again,
Ron Carroll
Original Firestar
From: Frcole(at)aol.com <Frcole(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday October 28 1998 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Seizure in flight
>
>Ron why not up the jet size 10 points and raise the needle until its got
some
>time on it?
>Dick C
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dboll" <dboll(at)ndak.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Black Mesa Flyers Open House |
Hi Ed
I will not be back to Arizona till Nov 10th but will be at the pancake breakfast
near Wickenburg the end off Nov. It would be nice to see you again, Maybe Wally
will make it too.I;m not sure of the date or time but a fella building a
youngster at Salome told me about it and I will find out for sure the time and
place when we get out there.
Don
>
>
> Central Arizona or near by: Check this out.
>
> FLY IN http://www.homestead.com/boxK/openhouse.html
>
>
> Ed Kiger
> edkiger(at)mwaz.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sport pilot, Umbrella??? |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>
>This is precisely why sport pilot will fail. There will be no
>instructors!
>Those current CFI will steer you towards the Private Pilot, and not
>many of
>them are going to be willing to train in MKIII. Those guys are just
>time
>building to go fly for the majors or corporate.
Just to show that there's still some 'good guys' out there, I have a
friend who's a major with the ANG (F-16 jockey). He bought a really slick
old Cessna 140 about a year ago and began instructing in it
'on-the-side'. Don't get me wrong, he makes a little money on the deal
but obviously instructing is not his primary income. He's one of those
guys who just loves flying, if he had any interest in 'bus driving' for
an airline, he'd have left the Guard years ago - like most of the younger
guys do.
I've asked him about Rec Pilot and he said he wasn't 'up' on the
requirements but was game for anything. Another plus is getting a
tailwheel endorsement at the same time (even if it's not needed - did we
ever decide that one?). - Now if I'll just get off my donkey and schedule
some lessons! ...
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
I've made a plug - core - whatever - on which to layup a custom nosecone
for my Twinstar. Problem is, I have zero experience with fiberglass.
Anyone who could advise me on things like cloth weights, resins, etc.
would be greatly appreciated. Email me direct if you prefer. Not sure
anyone else would be too interested.
I blew it with my local supplier when I mentioned it was for an airplane
(me and my big mouth!). Soon as they heard that, they would give NO
information - they'll still take my money of course, just won't point me
in any direction.
Thanx...
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>
>I have some vibration also, but as soon as I am airborne, just touch
>the
>brakes, the wheels stop and the vibration is gone.
writes:
>...All I
>have to do is touch the brakes and it dissapears. ....
Maybe I dreamed it but didn't the original message in this thread state
that the brakes had been REMOVED when the tundra tires were installed????
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hansen, Mark" <MHansen(at)ConusNews.com> |
I asked a while back if anyone knew if a suzuki snomobile engine
would work with a
rotax gear box. I found with an adaptor you can use it & the susuki
engine used can
run from 60 hp to 100 hp.
I have some info coming on this and will post it when I get it in a
week or so.
I asked for the price & he said for the whole thing (engine gearbox
2 carbs)
it is less than a 503.
snowmobiles
and it is liquid cooled.
mark hansen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phillip R Bagwell" <philba(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
Mick,
Check out www.fibreglast.com. They provide a wealth of information on
materials and processes. Get their catalog. Good information in there as
well
Phil bagwell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Imbalance |
To Jon C et al: To balance my wheels I first make sure the tire pressures are
correct and the same on both wheels. Too much pressure will cause these
little tires to bulge and go out of round. Not enough pressure will case the
sidewalls to crack and possibly allow the wheel rim to cut the tube (if you
use tubes) or break the rim seal. To place the weights I jack up one wheel at
a time and spin it on the axle. When i t comes to rest the heaviest point
will be at the bottom. I then add weight at the top of the rim until the
wheel has no tendency to stop at any one point. Weights are available at any
tire store. I use the stick-ons that are cut from a strip of sticky tape and
are only a fraction of an ounce each. It's easy. Duane in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
In a message dated 10/29/98 12:17:02 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< It still may have been the
pump because the fuel level was LOW immediately after the seizure, and I
wasn't out of gas, as was earlier assumed. >>
My 2cents. There is a difference between low fuel and a lean condition. If
your carb is properly adjusted running out of gas should not cause the engine
to seize. The only way I know of to seize a rotax is to overheat it. This
will happen because of 1) lean fuel mixture or 2) lack of lubrication. I know
of no other explanations.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wayne Welsh <flight(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
Are you sure its a seizure, or just fuel starvation. Maybe the floats
are sticking?
Have you opened up the exhaust ports to see if there is any scuffing of
the cylinders?
Maybe a cold seizure, I've heard with liquid cooled that the temp reads
fine and then once air borne the thermostat opens up and floods the
engine with cold water, COLD SIEZURE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
>
>I've made a plug - core - whatever - on which to layup a custom nosecone
>for my Twinstar. Problem is, I have zero experience with fiberglass.
>Anyone who could advise me on things like cloth weights, resins, etc.
>would be greatly appreciated. Email me direct if you prefer. Not sure
>anyone else would be too interested.
I bet a lot of people would be interested. Back when I had my
Hummer, I made 3 different nose cones, one for myself, and two for friends.
The shape of the Hummer cone was narrower, but sorta the same.
You can get glass cloth in bulk from someone like Aircraft Spruce,
and it is a little cheaper than getting it at the local auto parts store,
but from the local store, you won't have to worry about buying too much/not
enough. The stuff from the auto parts/paint store is a good thickness, and
two plies will probably be thick enough. Use polyester resin in one gallon
cans, get it at the auto parts/paint store. You will need about a gallon.
Dixie cups come in boxes of 100, 3 ounce size, UNWAXED. Use those to
mix the resin in. Buy a bunch of those little metal glue brushes. MEK is
good for cleaning the stuff off. The auto parts/paint store sells a hand
cleaner that works on polyester resin, it comes in a tube. You need a couple
squeegees, the regular ones for Bondo are a little thick/stiff. Save
margerine tub lids, and cut them in half, eliminating the pimple in the
middle of the lid. Trim the corners off so they won't snag.
After you lay the resin on with the glue brushes/ pouring when
appropriate, use the squeegee to spread it through the fabric. You want the
fabric completely wet out, but extra resin is only extra weight.
Have your cloth pre cut out ahead of time, try to figure what shapes
will need to go where. Once you get started, your hands will get sticky,
that is not the time to be trying to cut out more pieces. You will probably
need to cut darts in the fabric in places to get the wrinkles out. The
overlaps will sand down later.
The hard part is getting the cone off the mold. If you have a rigid
plug and have covered it with polyeurethane and mold release, several coats
of good wax, it would probably be best.
Or you could do it quick and dirty like I did, and cover the plug
with a good grade of duct tape, the resin won't stick to that too bad. Make
sure there are no "layers" where the tape overlaps, or wrinkles, they will
show through. To get it off, you will need a long thin strip of something to
work between the plug and the layup, something like a yardstick of thin
steel. Try not to cut the duct tape, be patient and just ease and work it in
between until the layup unsticks.
On one plug, I covered the plug with aluminum foil. Taped it just
enough in spots to make it stay put. After the layup cured, it was easy to
pop off the plug, then it took a couple hours to peel all the tinfoil off.
Once the layup is off the plug, put a couple little patches of cloth
on the inside where the mounting bolts will go through. Put a couple layers
of cloth around the cockpit facing edge (inside) to give it stiffness. You
can bend a 5/16" aluminum tube to the shape of the opening and glue it just
inside the opening edge, and then cover it with 2 strip layers of cloth, the
sandwich effect will stiffen it up nicely. For that, you could even use a
length of 1/4" copper tubing (cheap/heavier). The strength comes more from
the sandwich than the tube.
Sand the outside with coarse sanding discs on a drill until it gets
smooth. Lightweight Bondo where necessary (Minimize-weight). Finish with
220, then 300. It will get thin in places, lay up a piece of cloth on the
inside to strengthen it if it is too thin. Wear long sleeves and gloves,
definitly keep the dust off you, it will itch and aggravate you something
bad! One fairing I made in the summer, hot weather, wearing shorts, no
shirt, didn't know better, terrible rash, take it serious.
Primer/filler from spray cans when it looks smooth enough, paint,
and you're done. Paint the inside a light color, if it works with your paint
scheme, helps you see stuff inside/behind the panel when you get poking
around up in there. If you make a windshield, use Lexan, not Plexiglass,
Plexiglass and Acrylic crack too easy. Figure to spend between $100-$125 and
you will be close. If you don't get too thick , it should weigh less than 10
pounds without the windshield.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
I don't want to bore everyone to death on this, but I assumed (possibly in
error) that the low fuel level in the bowl immediately after the seizure
probably caused the mixture to go lean. Again, I assumed the fuel pump
was unable, for some reason, to keep up with the demand. Therefore, I
changed to a Mikuni double pump. There was still fuel in the tank, the
filter was still new, and the bulb pump was by-passed. An interesting point
is that the engine used nearly four gallons of fuel over the 1-hour+ time it
was run during break-in.
I appreciate all of the comments regarding this, and I'm still apprehensive
about trying it again for the third time today. It is getting, with about
$900 so far on seizure repairs. The good news is that the *average* cost
per seizure goes down each time because of the added cost of having the new
seals installed after the first time ;-)
After experiencing the first seizure I raised the needle to the bottom
notch, went one size larger on the main jet, used premium unleaded fuel,
Pennzoil air-cooled 2-stroke oil mixed @ 50:1.
Ron Carroll
Original Firestar
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday October 29 1998 5:35 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Seizure in flight
>
>In a message dated 10/29/98 12:17:02 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
><< It still may have been the
> pump because the fuel level was LOW immediately after the seizure, and I
> wasn't out of gas, as was earlier assumed. >>
>
>
>My 2cents. There is a difference between low fuel and a lean condition.
If
>your carb is properly adjusted running out of gas should not cause the
engine
>to seize. The only way I know of to seize a rotax is to overheat it. This
>will happen because of 1) lean fuel mixture or 2) lack of lubrication. I
know
>of no other explanations.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
On Wed, 28 Oct 1998, Mick Fine wrote:
>
> I've made a plug - core - whatever - on which to layup a custom nosecone
> for my Twinstar. Problem is, I have zero experience with fiberglass.
> Anyone who could advise me on things like cloth weights, resins, etc.
> would be greatly appreciated. Email me direct if you prefer. Not sure
> anyone else would be too interested.
>
> I blew it with my local supplier when I mentioned it was for an airplane
> (me and my big mouth!). Soon as they heard that, they would give NO
> information - they'll still take my money of course, just won't point me
> in any direction.
>
> Thanx...
I'm surprised how paranoid your fiberglass supplier is.
One thing to consider right off is whether the plug is the right thing
to use. A plug will make for a smooth inner surface of the nose cone,
and for looks you don't care about this as much as the outside surface.
You've probably already handled that issue. You could lay up on the
plug and smooth the outside once it cures. For a poor man's vacuum
bagging technique (i.e. no vacuum), wrap the outside with saran wrap.
It holds down all the glass bumps even where you've cut darts arount
has cured, and you will have much less smoothing and filling to do.
For filling I use microballoons. Works great. For glass, matts are a
little harder to work with. Especially for small curvy things I like
to simply use multi layers of cloth. Ideally, do all the layers at once,
see how strong it is, and add more where you were wrong.
For separating part from plug, the plug must be smooth, non-porous, and
covered with a couple coats of wax and/or mold release (PVA or some
I prefer epoxy over resins. I vaguely recall epoxies are generally
stronger. The polyester resin things I've made have always gotten brittle
and even yellowed with age. Choose a high stiffness epoxy. I've used
a 1:1 epoxy that requires 2-3x as many layers of glass compared to a 4:1
that cures to a much lower elasticity. Squish out as much epoxy/resin as
you possibly can. Acetone is a good solvent for this; much less toxic
to you and environment than MEK.
I have a web reference at home w/ good general info too. I'll send that
later.
- Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Swihart" <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport pilot, Umbrella??? |
The way I understand it, USUA, ASC & EAA BFI's will be grandfathered into
the Sport Pilot license. The idea is Part 103 will be left alone, and
basically make it(the license)legal for a pilot to fly "fat" ultralights up
to 1200#'s. SPL will not limit you on distance either. Whereas if you are a
ulie and want to fly further than 50 miles you have to go to a CFI and a get
long distance endorcement.
-Mark- (my 2 cents worth..)
Hey I caught the UL list ICQ fever..
ICQ#21813802
Bradley, CA
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Reynolds
> Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 1998 5:35 AM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Sport pilot, Umbrella???
>
>
>
> This is precisely why sport pilot will fail. There will be no
> instructors!
> Those current CFI will steer you towards the Private Pilot, and
> not many of
> them are going to be willing to train in MKIII. Those guys are just time
> building to go fly for the majors or corporate.
>
>
> From: Mick Fine <mefine1(at)juno.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, October 27, 1998 10:04 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Sport pilot, Umbrella???
>
>
>
> >Wasn't that the intent of the 'recreational ticket', a step between solo
> >and private? A few days ago, Todd commented on it with something like,
> >"...why bother when you have to stay within 50 miles..." Well, that limit
> >went away a couple years ago although the public heard little about it.
> >Many CFI's won't volunteer much information on RP because they'll lose
> >quite a few hours of instruction and aircraft rental if more students opt
> >for it.
> >
> >Very few RP certificates have been issued, that's why the 50 mile limit
> >was dropped. Still, it fits the way a lot of us fly - no night ops., no
> >radio work, no controlled airspace. A lot of folks like to say FAA is not
> >responsive but I think they recognized a need for some middle ground and
> >tried to address it with RP. Hey, give 'em some credit, it's a step in
> >the right direction. The reason more people don't go for it is because
> >they don't know it even exists or they've been fed a lot of
> >misinformation by CFI's who make more money steering them away from it.
> >
> >
> >-Mick Fine
> >Tulsa, Oklahoma
> >http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
> >Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
> >http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlene Clark" <charjls(at)olympus.net> |
| Subject: | Re:TEST PILOT NEEDED |
I need to find someone to finish my Kolb Firestar II and get it ready for
to fly it. I have my private pilot's license, am getting my tail-dragger
and float endorsements (I will need to get my full-lotus floats installed
also). I live in the Pacififc Northwest dand would be interested in
speaking with someone ASAP.
Thanks in advance.
DEAN HENRY
360-683-5299
> From: chris sudlow <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: decision
> Date: Friday, October 23, 1998 11:28 AM
>
>
> John,
>
> I would like to hear more about this. Do you have a name or phone # for
the Mark III
> owner?
>
> John Jung wrote:
>
> >
> > There is evidently one other option: Fly a two place UL with an
individual
> > exemption from the FAA. I talked to a Mark III pilot this summer that
applied for
> > an got and exemption from to fly his two place as an ultralight. He
weighs well
> > over 200 pounds, and he claimed that only a two place ultralight would
be safe for
> > him. I don't know how many people are getting these, and I don't know
what the
> > requirements or guidelines are, but it appears to be possible.
> > John Jung
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | kolb-list Golden West flyin pics |
http://www.gwfly-in.org/
Sorry Ben, not one picture of your creation in the UL group but we were
happy to meet you and the others and see your plane close up and judged it
the best of all UL there and took our own pictures.
Frank Reynen MKIII485 hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re:TEST PILOT NEEDED |
>
>I need to find someone to finish my Kolb Firestar II and get it ready for
>to fly it. I have my private pilot's license, am getting my tail-dragger
>and float endorsements (I will need to get my full-lotus floats installed
>also). I live in the Pacififc Northwest dand would be interested in
>speaking with someone ASAP.
Why don't these requests come from someone in the Southern
Ontatio/Michigan area?
Woody
Some men are able to stumble over the truth but are able to pick
themselves up and keep walking as if nothing had happened. (Churchill)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
>
>I've made a plug - core - whatever - on which to layup a custom nosecone
>for my Twinstar. Problem is, I have zero experience with fiberglass.
>Anyone who could advise me on things like cloth weights, resins, etc.
>would be greatly appreciated. Email me direct if you prefer. Not sure
>anyone else would be too interested.
Kind of depends on how you made the plug. If you made it out of blue foam
remember it is a lot easier to sand foam than hard fiberglass. Sounds simple
but most people ignore this advice. The better you make the plug the easier
it will be to finish the fairing. If you use blue foam you can use safety
poxy or "the West System" Don't worry about removing the foam. If you want
another layer of glass put it inside the plug and make a composite sandwich.
When the epoxy is still wet sprinkle the surfaces with micro to about 1/8
thick. After the epoxy sets brush off the excess microballoons and most of
the weave will be filled.
Oh by the way one of my other projects is a Dragonfly. This dosn't make me
an expert but I have learned a bit hangin around on the Dragon list.
Woody
Some men are able to stumble over the truth but are able to pick
themselves up and keep walking as if nothing had happened. (Churchill)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ - Upgrade Fund Raiser Continues... |
Dear Listers,
I want to thank everyone that has made a contribution to the new email and
web server Upgrade Fund so far. It is really nice to see so much support
from the List members. We are currently just short of the 50% mark in
terms of necessary contributions, however, to reach the break-even point
on the new servers. If you been considering making a contribution to
support the recent system upgrades, please connect to the secure website
to use your credit card or simply mail in a check today.
I believe the Lists, Archives, and Search Engine are a wonderful resource
for anyone building or flying one of the these aircraft. I spend countless
hours each week maintaining the servers and answering questions about using
the Lists, website and search engine because I believe in the importance
of the free exchange of information on these aircraft. Your contributions
show your support as well and I thank you in advance.
The URL for the contribution page is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Or you may send a personal check to:
Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550
I've also been receiving some wonderful comments from contributors and thought
it would be nice to share some of them with everyone. Used here without
permission... :-)
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
RV, Kolb, and Zenith List Administrator
=============================== The List ====================================
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925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Reed Lindberg <reed(at)indra.com> |
| Subject: | Miracle Oil Anyone? |
Speaking of oil:
"Anyone in the Florida area know a good source for Penzoil 2 cycle oil?
I am looking for any 912 owners to tell me what kind of oil they use in
thier engine.
I have a 912 and I am using Castrol Syntec Blend 20W-50 a part synthetic
mortor oil. The 912 now has 75 hours on it."
Has anyone experimented with the "miracle oils" advertised on television
infomercials.
Have you seen the one for "Prolong." where they put this oil in a test
stand mounted engine, then pull the oil drain plug and drain out the
oil. They add garbage and it still keeps running while there is
narration with much hype and hyperbole. Then a female test driver takes
her car on a cruise around LA with the drain plug removed.
What is that anyway?
Years ago I had a friend who swore by "Marvel Mystery Oil." He took a
pane of glass and leaned it up against the wall. He put MarvelMystery
Oil on it and also regular oil. In the morning I came back and the
regular oil had slid to the bottom of the glass, but the marvel was
still sticking to where he had put it.
Anyway, my fantasy is that one of these oils would keep a Rotax happy.
Any comments or observations. Does anyone know anything scientific
about this stuff. Reed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Ron,
After the engine has been running the float bowl level should be 1/2"
from the top. If it is less, that might explain the seizure. Where is
your EGT probe sensor placed on in the exhaust manifold? Could be the
1150 reading that you saw was actually much higher. Were there air
bubbles in the fuel line? I few bubbles are ok, but only a few. What
did the plugs look like after the engine quit? Did you check the torque
requirements of the head bolts (17.5 ft-lbs)?
Ralph (interrogator) Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
writes:
>
>
>I don't want to bore everyone to death on this, but I assumed
>(possibly in error) that the low fuel level in the bowl immediately
after the
>seizure probably caused the mixture to go lean. Again, I assumed the
fuel
>pump was unable, for some reason, to keep up with the demand.
Therefore, I
>changed to a Mikuni double pump. There was still fuel in the tank, the
>filter was still new, and the bulb pump was by-passed. An interesting
>point is that the engine used nearly four gallons of fuel over the
1-hour+
>time it was run during break-in.
>
>I appreciate all of the comments regarding this, and I'm still
>apprehensive about trying it again for the third time today. It is
getting, with
>about $900 so far on seizure repairs. The good news is that the
*average*
>cost per seizure goes down each time because of the added cost of having
>the new seals installed after the first time ;-)
>
>After experiencing the first seizure I raised the needle to the bottom
>notch, went one size larger on the main jet, used premium unleaded
>fuel, Pennzoil air-cooled 2-stroke oil mixed @ 50:1.
>
>Ron Carroll
>Original Firestar
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Monroe" <pmmonroe(at)pe.net> |
Sirs
Take me off the Kolb list. pmmonroe(at)pe.net
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | engine failure in flight part 2 |
[snip]
On preflight or afterwards did you check for water in the rotary valve
lubrication reservoir? Evidence of rotary valve shaft seal leakage.
My 582 EGT rose ~50 degrees (last flight) and oil was slightly milky on
next
preflight.
Rick LeMarr
EAA 548699 BFI
Flightstar II E001RL
Can somebody on this list explain the increase in EGT (one or both
cylinders?)caused by a cooling water leak into the R/V cavity ? I am at a
loss to connect the two.
But to answer your question,yes. I had this problem about 3 years ago
requiring a new rotary shaft /seals/bearing assemly due to corrosion
of the shaft exposed to the cooling fluid.
For the last year I have had to top off the R/V oil reservoir every 15 hrs
or so and I keep a close eye on it at preflight but it has not
changed level or color nor have I seen any increase in EGT or
CHT other than the normal variations due to changes in OAT. ( this
stands for outside air temp Adri! ;-)
Frank Reynen MKIII@485hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Miracle Oil Anyone? |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Reed, I too was wondering about these oils too, especially Prolong, until
I saw an investigation that our local news station did with it. They
hired an outside research lab to duplicate the same test that Prolong
claims to work. They drained the Prolong out of the engine and ran it
just like in their infomercial. Well, you can guess the results. The
Prolong engine seized within a few minutes after running the test. There
are others out there that use Duralube oil in their Rotax's and claim
good results. I use Klotz synthetic in mine and I love it. Klotz claims
reduced wear over the mineral oils. There is a guy at our airpark that
had his Rotax 447 torn down after using Klotz for 300 hrs and said it
looked like new. The plugs on mine last a year and they could be used
longer because they are so clean.
Ralph (Klotz and Seafoam) Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
>Have you seen the one for "Prolong." where they put this oil in a test
>stand mounted engine, then pull the oil drain plug and drain out the
>oil. They add garbage and it still keeps running while there is
>narration with much hype and hyperbole. Then a female test driver
>takes her car on a cruise around LA with the drain plug removed.
>What is that anyway?
> Reed
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGrooms511(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
Mick;
If your plug is made from Styrofoam, do not use polyester resin on your
glass. It will eat the foam! Use only epoxy resin. And keep in mind that the
resin is not the strength of the fiberglass. That is a commonly held
misconception about fiberglass. Use only enough to wet out the material. Blot
any extra away. Using a heat gun on low power will thin the epoxy resin to a
water consistency, thereby allowing you to minimize the amount of resin. This
will keep the project light. The heat will also set the epoxy up faster, so
work fast.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
Endless thanks to everybody!
Since this subject seems to be of interest to a few, I'll risk boring the
rest with some more background on my plug (bail-out now if not
interested!):
To make the plug, I got the 'vital stats' by taking some measurements of
the forward cage and using some cardboard templates to get the "hard
dimensions." Next, I started building a 3-D 'wire-frame' model of the
shape I thought I wanted in CAD-KEY (a cadd program for pc's). After much
'tweaking' and smoothing, I ended up with a group of surfaces that looked
acceptable. Next, I 'cut' these surfaces with planes which are parallel
to what will be the instrument panel on one inch increments. The result
is 28 or 29 curves (cross-sections) that were plotted on paper courtesy
my employer's 48" laser plotter (...don't tell anybody).
These curves were then transferred to 1.0" thick styrofoam (the white
stuff - it was cheaper) and then cut with a hot-wire (2 feet of safety
wire and a 10 amp battery charger). Two "index holes" which are common to
each cross section were punched with a piece of 1.0" steel tube beveled
to a sharp edge on one end.
Next, I stacked the sections on 2 short lengths of PVC pipe thru the
index holes so the whole thing looks like a 28-layer wedding cake. I
glued the sections together with Elmer's to make it stable then took a
wood rasp to it and knocked-off the high points of the stair steps.
Final treatment was a thin (but full) coat of 'Durham's Water Putty' -
basically plaster. This makes for a smooth surface and will (hopefully)
seal the styrofoam from the resin. I also brushed a couple coats of latex
house paint on top of the plaster to help seal it.
Well, that's a cheapskate's version of how Boeing builds 'master models'
for the big birds so I thought it might work ok for me. Obviously, I have
a lot of time tied-up in making the plug, probably huge overkill but at
least it should be symmetrical! Before anyone asks, NO - I can't just buy
a nose-cone from Dennis because I widened the foot rest area about 2.5"
over what a Mk.3 is. I'd like to get one good lay-up and still salvage
the plug just in case I screw-up the first one!
I'll post some images of the plug on my webpage tomorrow. The only ones I
have are of the rough styrofoam - the 'plastered pix' are still in the
camera. Again, thanks for all the advise!
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Miracle Oil Anyone? |
I have heard a lot of good comments about AMSOIL for replacing Aeroshell and
that their 2 cycle has extended TBO considerably.
Russ
AMAV8R(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
I have been drooling over those Suzuki engines also, you can get them from
wrecked snowmobiles for a fairly good deal every fall...it seams like a
really good match. Let me know what you find out.
Topher
From: Hansen, Mark <MHansen(at)ConusNews.com>
Date: Thursday, October 29, 1998 2:54 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: new engine
>
> I asked a while back if anyone knew if a suzuki snomobile engine
>would work with a
> rotax gear box. I found with an adaptor you can use it & the susuki
>engine used can
> run from 60 hp to 100 hp.
>
> I have some info coming on this and will post it when I get it in a
>week or so.
> I asked for the price & he said for the whole thing (engine gearbox
>2 carbs)
> it is less than a 503.
>
> for those who don't know this is the engine used in articat
>snowmobiles
> and it is liquid cooled.
>
>
> mark hansen
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
<< Once again this weekend
in Colquitt, a trike pilot of three hours flew straight into the ground
breaking his back and hip. Most, well, all of the accidents that I have
witnessed have been PILOT error. Mostly lack of training and
experience.
Fly safe,
Rutledge Fuller >>
Even with my glider pilot backgrouind.....I was even duped into a
"bad"......maybe "rotten" is the best word, landing when my Cuyunna went
silent on me at 50' on climb out during takeoff a few years back in my ol
pterodactyl (love that baby). Could have broken my back except the plane was
built so good that it cushioned me aganinst the fall. And to think that the
whole experience was caused by me in the first place is absolutely
correct....cause I didn't DROP THE NOSE FAR ENOUGH.....I only dropped it to
slightly lower than level cause my Hall indicator read 45 and I knew that was
fast enough for control... But it wasn't really 45, it was more like 32 or so
as the little indicator in the Hall has mass and was floating in antigravity
as I was dropping the nose (when I looked at it) and it was showing too high.
QUIET MEANS DROP THE NOSE.....A LOT....ON TAKEOFF!!
YOU MUST experience controlled engine out.....ABSOLUTELY!!.....after all
.....it is only gliding like a bird.....and it is fun.....and very satisfying
to beat mother nature at her own game if only so
briefly.............................................................GeoR38
good thread RF!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)ulster.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Engine Seizure in fright |
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 28, 1998 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Seizure in flight
>
>Rut,
> As long as you are covering all the possibilities, let me ask a
question.
>What was the cylinder head temperature just prior to your take off run when
it
>seized? My own theory of seizures on takeoff is that most are "cold"
seizures
>caused by improper warm up. I don't let the rpm's go over 4,000 until the
engine
>is within 50 degrees of normal CHT. With my engine and gage, that 200
degrees CHT
>before take off.
Or perhaps it was the 49.2 / 1 fuel mixture, running on a +.10 jet above
2500msl during a full moon.
You guys are scaring me. All that JJ left out was the chicken blood and
newts eyes on the altar next to the hangar!
David (the wannabe who only wants a reliable 4 cycle) Bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | swultra <swultra(at)primenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
WGrooms511(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Mick;
> If your plug is made from Styrofoam, do not use polyester resin on your
> glass. It will eat the foam! Use only epoxy resin. And keep in mind that the
> resin is not the strength of the fiberglass. That is a commonly held
> misconception about fiberglass. Use only enough to wet out the material. Blot
> any extra away. Using a heat gun on low power will thin the epoxy resin to a
> water consistency, thereby allowing you to minimize the amount of resin. This
> will keep the project light. The heat will also set the epoxy up faster, so
> work fast.
>
Just my two cents!- isn't there a chance of a explosion useing the heat
gun. they get afuly hot. Steve Ward building a mark 111
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
>
>>
>>I've made a plug - core - whatever - on which to layup a custom nosecone
>>for my Twinstar. Problem is, I have zero experience with fiberglass.
>>Anyone who could advise me on things like cloth weights, resins, etc.
>>would be greatly appreciated. Email me direct if you prefer. Not sure
>>anyone else would be too interested.
>
>
> Kind of depends on how you made the plug. If you made it out of blue foam
>remember it is a lot easier to sand foam than hard fiberglass. Sounds simple
>but most people ignore this advice. The better you make the plug the easier
>it will be to finish the fairing. If you use blue foam you can use safety
>poxy or "the West System" Don't worry about removing the foam. If you want
>another layer of glass put it inside the plug and make a composite sandwich.
>When the epoxy is still wet sprinkle the surfaces with micro to about 1/8
>thick. After the epoxy sets brush off the excess microballoons and most of
>the weave will be filled.
SNIP
This is an excellent way to form a light weight nose cone. Be careful of
the toxicity of the epoxy and recognize the micro-baloons are poisonous.
They will give you siliconossis or something like that.
You must use epoxy for the foam composites since polyester will dissolve
the styrene based foams (Blue Foam)
Ron
>
>
> Woody
>
> Some men are able to stumble over the truth but are able to pick
>themselves up and keep walking as if nothing had happened. (Churchill)
>
>
>
>
>~~******************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
>
>Endless thanks to everybody!
>
>
>Final treatment was a thin (but full) coat of 'Durham's Water Putty' -
>basically plaster. This makes for a smooth surface and will (hopefully)
>seal the styrofoam from the resin. I also brushed a couple coats of latex
>house paint on top of the plaster to help seal it.
>
A couple coats of past floor wax will probably be all you need to separate
the part from the mold. (assuming the paint left a smooth surface)
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Miracle Oil Anyone? |
>
>
>Speaking of oil:
>"Anyone in the Florida area know a good source for Penzoil 2 cycle oil?
>I am looking for any 912 owners to tell me what kind of oil they use in
>thier engine.
>I have a 912 and I am using Castrol Syntec Blend 20W-50 a part synthetic
>mortor oil. The 912 now has 75 hours on it."
>Has anyone experimented with the "miracle oils" advertised on television
>infomercials.
The owners manual for my 912 is very specific about the type and GRADE of
oil to be used in the engine. The typical oil I find for my cars is not
the correct grade.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | froghair(at)mailexcite.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
Here's some photos of the plug and how it was made:
http://members.tripod.com/~froghair/pod/pod.html
Thanks,
-Mick
Get your free, private e-mail at http://mail.excite.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
Mick,
Looking at the bottomost picture, I must conclude that at least one corner
of your shop is reserved for only the most elegant of occasions! (Look at
that furniture!)
>
>Here's some photos of the plug and how it was made:
>
>http://members.tripod.com/~froghair/pod/pod.html
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Mick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi All,
Still stuck up here in Cleveland I'm afraid. I wonder if someone can
provide a couple bits of info that I would have if I was at home.
First, I've been trying to call Dennis at 610-948-4527 without success.
He's probably on vacation or something, but it's possible that this isn't
the correct number. I got this one off the web page, and it sounds
familiar. Can someone confirm that it's the correct number?
Second, will someone send me the number to place a classified ad with
Ultralight Flyer magazine. Ben gave me this before, but unfortunately, it's
on my home computer and I'm here.
Thanks for the help. My plan is still to try to sell the SS without engine,
but if I still have it next spring, I'll consider putting a new engine on
it. Now, all I need is an 80 hp, 4-stroke engine for a few thousand dollars
(I know, dream on). How much is a used 912, and what's the fuel burn?
Considering all engine options.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re:Engine Seizure in fright |
>Or perhaps it was the 49.2 / 1 fuel mixture, running on a +.10 jet above
>2500msl during a full moon.
>
>You guys are scaring me. All that JJ left out was the chicken blood and
>newts eyes on the altar next to the hangar!
>
>David (the wannabe who only wants a reliable 4 cycle) Bruner
>
I'm sitting home semi-grumpy cuz I'm on my 3rd or 4th postponement of a
fishing/flying trip. Grrr. First couple postponements were due to work,
3rd rain, and this morning it is blowing 15, forecast to increase to 25+
this afternoon. Hopefully tomorrow!!
David, I liked the sentiments in your post. But don't be dissuaded from
using a 2-stroke. 2-stroke failures and forced landings are still very
rare, and perfectly do-able in a slow enf aircraft such as an ultralight.
I too am still wanting a "reliable 4 cycle", with 40 hp, on a 254 lb
ultralight. Meanwhile I'm a family man with a lawless, reckless (2-stroke)
flying habit. It ain't perfect, but not too bad either. I've had and
continue to have a terrific amount of safe fun with it.
-Ben (going out to kill a chicken for the weather) Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
>
>Here's some photos of the plug and how it was made:
>
>http://members.tripod.com/~froghair/pod/pod.html
>
Mick,
Nice looking pod plug method, altho in my house I'd get serious demerits
for putting anything like that on the nice table inside. :)
Among all the other DONTs you are getting (sorry), does polyester go on
latex without attacking the latex? My experience says no, but latexes may
be different from my early days w/ polyester resins.
I've played with the Durhams wood putty as a plug material myself. It seemed
pretty good except a bit on the HARD side for any serious shaping work. I got
into worse trouble when I tried to use the Durhams to fill big voids in a
foam+glass plug. It just doesn't work to sand and smooth a plug made of
materials with differing hardness.
The site I referred to for composite info is http://composite.miningco.com.
However, they seem to be belly up this morning and maybe beyond.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Yates <johny(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Misc. Questions |
>
>Hi All,
>
>Still stuck up here in Cleveland I'm afraid. I wonder if someone can
>provide a couple bits of info that I would have if I was at home.
>
>First, I've been trying to call Dennis at 610-948-4527 without success.
>
> Hello Rusty
Dennis is at the other shop, he can be reached at 717-362-1057 or
717-362-1064 He will most likely be at those numbers all weekend.
Regards
John Yates.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
Anyone have an old Rotax b or c gearbox kicking around they want to get
rid of cheap?
Woody
Some men are able to stumble over the truth but are able to pick
themselves up and keep walking as if nothing had happened. (Churchill)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gearbox needed |
Woody,
I have a brand new, never used B drive I'll sell for $425. 352-622-4064.
wood wrote:
>
> Anyone have an old Rotax b or c gearbox kicking around they want to get
> rid of cheap?
>
> Woody
>
> Some men are able to stumble over the truth but are able to pick
> themselves up and keep walking as if nothing had happened. (Churchill)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joann Hill" <jhill(at)swcp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Misc. Questions |
# is (423) 629-5375 (for Ultralight Flying)
>Hi All,
will someone send me the number to place a classified ad with
>Ultralight Flyer magazine.
>Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Yates <johny(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Misc. Questions |
Sorry for the last reply hit the wrong button, disregard.
>Regards
>John Yates.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy & Joni Tolvstad" <tolvstad(at)nvc.net> |
| Subject: | Good advice, Old 2cycles and Women |
David and group,
You have to realize that a 2 cycle is like any engine and bound to fail
sooner or later even if the proper care is taken. The 2 cycles are kinda
like a woman.....they run great and then for some odd reason (they never
tell you why, you always have to figure it out yourself!) they start raising
a fuss and makin all kinds of strange noises you can't quite make out (but
you know it isn't good!) and before you know it, you can't get a sound out
of them! They just leave you hanging there! If you buy them some little
trinket or stick some shiny thing a ma bob on em they are happy again and
away you go ....... flying around thinkin your in heaven (until you run out
of gas).
I just had my "start on 2 pulls everytime" Kawasaki 440 lose enough power
last week that I had to make an unscheduled landing. Thanks to reading this
column and adhering to the advice given, it was not a disaster that may have
landed a low hour pilot like me in the hospital , just an inconvenience I
had not counted on. Someone had mentioned a ways back (can't remember who
but THANKS) that their instructor always asked them where they would land if
they lost power. I kinda got in the habit of doing this after hearing that
and I really paid off. Also knew with all that coughing and sputtering and
stuff going on I had better GET THE NOSE DOWN NOW!! and was able to keep my
airspeed at around 50 mph. It had rained quite a bit up here recently and
as I got a little closer to the ground, I noticed the stubble field I had
picked looked mighty wet. I had read about the gentleman who flipped his
plane on its top because the wheels got stuck and that didn't sound like it
was a lot of fun to me, so I made sure I was about to stall before I dropped
her back on the ground. She rolled along nicely for only 50 feet before
coming to a stop.
I talked to a few people who claim to know a little about 2 cycles and found
that there was a possibility that my condenser or coil could be bad. I
called up a guy who handled parts and told him I needed a set of points and
condenser. When he stopped laughing he informed me that he hadn't been
asked that question for over 15 years! A little shaken,I rattled of the
numbers on the side of the motor and found out I was flying
around with a 1971 vintage motor! Never had really gave much thought to the
age of the plane motor before, but with something that old I guess she was
bound to drop me on the ground sooner or later. I've been buying little
trinkets and stickin shiny thing a ma bobs on the wife in hopes of obtaining
enough cash to invest in a newer motor, but she, too just wants to drop me
on the ground!
Anyway, in the unlikely event that I could come up with a little cash, I
once again need some advice. I have spotted a liquid cooled Kawasaki 440
and wondered if anyone ever stuck one of these babies on a plane before. It
also has 2 carbs instead of the one carb I have on my old motor. Is the 2
carbs better for our requirments?
Thanks again for all the great and informative reading.
Randy
PS Has anyone heard from that old bald feller, Beuford Tuton recently? I
spotted the wife sticking some kind a package ( looked like a food item) in
the mail. Don't know who she sent it to, but I am a little worried about
Mr. Tuton!
From: David Bruner <brunerd(at)ulster.net>
Date: Friday, October 30, 1998 5:14 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re:Engine Seizure in fright
>
>You guys are scaring me. All that JJ left out was the chicken blood and
>newts eyes on the altar next to the hangar!
>
>David (the wannabe who only wants a reliable 4 cycle) Bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | misc questions - thanks |
Thanks for all the numbers, I envision Dennis walking around with a belt
full of cordless phones now :-)
I'd like to especially thank Ray Baker for pointing out how nice the weather
is back in Florida now. I feel a lot better now Ray, thanks :-) Actually,
the weather has been great up here, but there's still time for the snow and
ice to hit. I've got a Tomahawk rented for a couple hours tomorrow, so at
least I'll get some flying (however boring) in.
Sorry to hear you didn't make it out today Ben. Hopefully, you'll get those
Salmon before mother nature does :-)
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Misc. Questions |
Ultralight Flying! classifieds:423-629-5375
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good advice, Old 2cycles and Women |
David and group,
You have to realize that a 2 cycle is like any engine and bound to fail
sooner or later even if the proper care is taken.
I just had my "start on 2 pulls everytime" Kawasaki 440 lose enough power
last week that I had to make an unscheduled landing. A little shaken,I
rattled off the numbers on the side of the motor and found out I was flying
around with a 1971 vintage motor!
From: David Bruner <brunerd(at)ulster.net>
You guys are scaring me. All that JJ left out was the chicken blood and
newts eyes on the altar next to the hangar!
David (the wannabe who only wants a reliable 4 cycle) Bruner
Here is a perfect example of a typical unreliable 2-stroke. This
piece of trash is 27 years old, cost less than $1500 new, and now it up and
quits! There is no reliability or longevity to these 2-strokes at all! We
should all rush out and buy $9,000 4-strokes at once!
Or maybe not...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | for Richard Swiderski only |
Everyone else, please ignore this.
Richard, I tried to send you a reply a couple of times but the messages
bounce. Leave me a different address if you have one, or I'll talk to you
tomorrow.
Rusty
440-442-8400 rm-231 (hotel)
>did not reach the following recipient(s):
>
> The recipient name is not recognized
> MSEXCH:IMS:Digital:AmExch1:DASHUB1 0 (000C05A6) Unknown Recipient
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I agree with you George except that the microlight weight limit is 360
lbs empty weight while the Sport Pilot category is 1200 lbs gross weight.
Add another
260 lbs for pilot weight and gas, 620 lbs is still a little over half the
Sport Pilot proposal which is more realistic for typical "fat"
ultralights of today. If the Sport Pilot becomes law, what will it do to
the flying "fat u/l's"? How many owners are going to register their
planes as N-numbered experimentals? How many will be able to do it if
they didn't build it? In answer to these questions, I think what is
needed is a "microlight category" that is better suited to accommodate
"fat u/l's". Aircraft weight isn't the only parameter to consider.
Compare a Titan Tornado with a cruise speed of 125 mph to a Kolb FireStar
with a cruise of
65 mph. Both planes can have approximately the same weight. Maybe there
needs to be multiple categories. My Original FireStar was optimized for
Part 103 rules. It weighed in at about 261 lbs, but is NOT in the same
category with the faster Titan, Rans, or Europa to name a few. There are
"ultralights/microlights" and then there are "lightplanes". Where do the
"fat u/l's" fit in? Well I guess it depends on how fast it goes too! I
suppose we could fit the "Bud Light jet" under the Sport Pilot proposal.
Is this what we want?
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
>I wanted an ultralight and I thought I had one (before this list was
>available) until I first flew it....it was a Kolb Firestar. with
>447.....while all the talk by USUA and several officials of FAA was
>that the 103 FAR which spelled out nearly completely arbitrary numbers
on all
>that youidentified above....would be increased to encompass what the
market
>was producing since there could then be at least some logic behind it.
>One bit of logic might even have included the Microlight numbers which
>could have made universal or more so the freedoms of the air throughout
the
>entire WORLD......and I merely ask you......what's wrong with the
WORLD's
>idea of micro/ultralite flying......350# certainly makes more sense than
>1200!!.....AND there is even a REASON for
>it.........................sorry....no humor in this thread from
>me!!......................Also....we are not looking for sympathy, but
>it should be recognized that the USUA was betrayed.....by someone,
>....somewhere in the arbitration.....I think it is somehow called
>manipulation!!......there,
>I said it and I'm glad!!!.....................GeoR38
> >>
254 + 260 = 514 < 1/2 of 1200#....existing.....or you could say 360
(proposed)+ 260=610# or approx 1/2 of 1200#. Although I didn't know that the
1200# limit was a gross figure it still is much beyond what was originally
asked for by USUA. Furthermore, the destructive power of a light plane when
it hits an immovable object like a building or the ground is at minimium a
proportional one and I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't a square law
function in there somewhere. All I can remember now without bringin out the ol
Physics book is F=ma and mv1 = mv2 but I think there are some mv squared
relationships as they relate to energy instead of momentum.
Why couldn't the 103 be based on something REAL like t he destructive
power or energy dissapated when it hits an immovable object instead of being
so unbelievably (and contestably) arbitrary. After all, isn't the destructive
power one of the main variables to speak for , or to enable having a part 103
in the first place?? The FAA guy at Oshkosh once said that FAR part 103 is one
ot the MOST successful FARs because no one other than the ultralighters
themselves were ever killed up to that year.........maybe '96. I guess we maim
a few folk outside the activity but they are all still pumpin
air!!!................nuff said..............................GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
<< That is the problem in a nutshell. No one EXCEPT the USUA has ever
seriously talked about changing part 103, or acted like it didn't really
make any difference if you were legal or not. Their publication regularly
tests fat everythings, and only lately has begun to mention if they were 103
legal or not. Why shouldn't manufacturers keep making fat u/l's? The
Association convinced it's members that it didn't matter/will change
tomorrow, so people went ahead and bought them. Read the back issues of the
Director's Memo's in UF and see for yourself. It was only wishful thinking,
but now who's got stuck?
Richard Pike
N420P (42oldpoops)
>>
And I say God blessem for the effort!!!.....Isn't that how change is
accomplished??!! and they even tried the legal approach!!! ....... and the
"acting like it didn't really make any difference whether you were legal or
not business" was reflected in the statements by the USUA president in his
monthly reiteration of what he thought was an ultralight...............sounds
like a good plan for CHANGE to me!!....I think some call this the American way
!....I kinda like it!!.......................................GeoR38
After all ....no risk....no gain!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
<< > feel sorry for those that bought El Tubbo Deluxo's?
I'm not whining or looking for sympathy because the FAA made an unfair
law. I don't think they did. I am whining about them not adequately
addressing fat ultralights 5,10,15+ years later, and now pretending that
the Sport category is it. I would gladly receive a new category that
appropriately reflects the flying 10,000(?) people like to do. I want
a new category and GA wants a new category too. Having 10,000 fat
ultralights flying without a valid pilot or aircraft certificate stinks
for all of aviation.
BTW, I remember talking to an FAA FDO person about flying an ultralight
at my home field. This was 8 months before completion of my FS, and at
that time I didn't really know how much it would weigh, but did realize
it would be *slightly* over 103 (and safer too). The conversation
was friendly,etc and near the end he asked me what kind of UL I had.
I reluctantly told him, fearing that as an FAA official dealing with 103
issues (as well as others), he might surely look up on his list and find
that i was fat. Instead, when I told him FS KXP, he said "Oh neat!!,
those are really nice! I think I'd like to have one of those too!"
Ben Ransom
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>>
Bless you Ben......even though you did stick your EGT probe in the same place
I did!!....................GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
<< > feel sorry for those that bought El Tubbo Deluxo's?
I'm not whining or looking for sympathy because the FAA made an unfair
law. I don't think they did. I am whining about them not adequately
addressing fat ultralights 5,10,15+ years later, and now pretending that
the Sport category is it. I would gladly receive a new category that
appropriately reflects the flying 10,000(?) people like to do. I want
a new category and GA wants a new category too. Having 10,000 fat
ultralights flying without a valid pilot or aircraft certificate stinks
for all of aviation.
BTW, I remember talking to an FAA FDO person about flying an ultralight
at my home field. This was 8 months before completion of my FS, and at
that time I didn't really know how much it would weigh, but did realize
it would be *slightly* over 103 (and safer too). The conversation
was friendly,etc and near the end he asked me what kind of UL I had.
I reluctantly told him, fearing that as an FAA official dealing with 103
issues (as well as others), he might surely look up on his list and find
that i was fat. Instead, when I told him FS KXP, he said "Oh neat!!,
those are really nice! I think I'd like to have one of those too!"
Ben Ransom
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>>
Bless you Ben......even though you did stick your EGT probe in the same place
I did!!....................GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sport pilot, Umbrella??? |
<< Why sould you need a license to fly the way we do, normally
we are up about an hour or less and normally stay in the pattern, once in a
while we go on a short cross country to another grass field some where out
of the way of GA and commerical aircraft and we just putzz aorund for fun,
thats why we went to ultr lights to get out from under the control. Stop and
think about this and I think some of might agree with me, Geor38 will think
I nuts, bvut he's just and ole glider pilot so he says. Any way this my
pences worth.
Frank! I don,t think you're nuts,, just funny lookin....but I luv ya in spite
of it!! You have a point about the Big Brother theory though, just another
way to keep tabs on you....which SHOULD be one of the goals of the government
...isn't it?...so they can control their business....namely us....well, I
guess that's why we have the constitutiona and the 1st 10 amendments....lets
just all make sure they are exercised.....because if WE don't see to it.....no
one else will either.
Ps. sorry I missed flyin the other night, but I'm goin up
Sunday!............GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: newbie inquiries |
<< Today, the little plane is nose-heavy and out of trim due to the extra
weight up front (me) and I have to hold a slight back pressure on the
stick when I fly. It's not fatiguing because it is light. I have made
several true dead stick landings each year which keeps me in practice.
One of them was at 2600' agl and over a mile from the field, intentional
of course. Do I know my limitations? There is an old saying in aviation:
"When a pilot thinks he knows everything, the end may be near".
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered >>
Ralph I had the same problem and put a trim tab on my elevator, not to ease
the back pressure on my hand but to enable landing the plane without elevator
control....just use the throttle.....made me feel better anyway........GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Viagra meets the FAA |
<< Just heard on the news that FAA says NO Viagra when flying!!!
Sure glad I fly an ultralight.......not that I take the stuff.... but... I
asume we ultralighters are exempt?????
Jon
>>
I don't think we're exempt.....everyone has to ultimately take
Viagra.....don't they? :-)
.............................GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
<< I took the fuel pump apart to see if I
could detect the problem It looked perfect. In fact, I learned that the
pump has a very small hole that leads to the dry side of the diaphragm
apparently to allow it to 'breathe' back and forth. Now I'm back to square
one in not knowing what caused the seizure. It still may have been the
pump because the fuel level was LOW immediately after the seizure, and I
wasn't out of gas, as was earlier assumed.
Ron Carroll
Original Firestar >>
Ron, I had the same problem ....starvation on max throttle .....only my engine
was on the plane, and the guy flying it , Bob Morrison , finally said after
the 3rd dead stick....George, this ain't fun no more!!..So I found a clogged
vent in the tank, air bubbles in the fuel line and ultimately an eyelash in
the mikuni that was probably mine because I had taken it apart upon receipt
months earlier, 'cause my name is Curious George. ..............Anyway after
removal of the eyelash, my engine hasn't quit in 6
years!!................................GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Seizure in flight |
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Snip . . .
>I found a clogged
>vent in the tank, air bubbles in the fuel line and ultimately an eyelash in
>the mikuni that was probably mine because I had taken it apart upon receipt
>months earlier, 'cause my name is Curious George. ..............Anyway
after
>removal of the eyelash, my engine hasn't quit in 6
>years!!................................GeoR38
>
Now were cookin' with gas, Curious. I have been wondering where that
missing eyelash went. I figured my wife was saving them up to make some new
false eyelashes. I'll check this out.
All kidding aside, I have completely disassembled the carb (more than
once), looking for *anything* that may have an effect on performance. I am
learning that sterile, operating room like practices are almost a necessity.
Yesterday I found that the fanbelt was a little loose and shiny, like it has
been slipping. Unable to find one locally, I will order a new one this
coming week.
Ron Carroll
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>
>Mick,
>
>Looking at the bottomost picture, I must conclude that at least one
>corner
>of your shop is reserved for only the most elegant of occasions!
>(Look at
>that furniture!)
Well, I did have to 'enhance' the photo quite a bit you know. It did make
my old card table and folding chairs look pretty good, huh?. If you look
close, you can still see the push-pin holes and knife marks from my model
airplane days.
Actually, the wife works late a couple nights a week. There's usually
plenty of time to dispose of the evidence. She did notice an
eau-de-kerosene coming from the dishwasher the last time I tore down the
Flyer's engines 'though (I thought I was pretty clever when I suggested
it was from the previous Thursday's meat loaf - WRONG!). Free advice -
always leave yourself enough time to run that extra rinse-cycle.
Another thing, curing the high-temp paint on your exhaust springs is
fine. Trying to guess what the hell kind of casserole could possibly
smell like high-temp paint isn't. Use the oven timer to remind you that
they're still in there hanging from the top rack.
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>
>...I've played with the Durhams wood putty as a plug material myself.
It
>seemed
>pretty good except a bit on the HARD side for any serious shaping
>work....
Yep, the label says, "Rock Hard" and it is! I think it's good for a base
layer over the styrofoam but I also had trouble applying and sanding
additional layers to fill-in the low spots. After some trial and error, I
wound up using taping-mud (for sheet rock) to fill-in. It was MUCH easier
to sand.
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
>
>PS Has anyone heard from that old bald feller, Beuford Tuton recently? I
>spotted the wife sticking some kind a package ( looked like a food item) in
>the mail. Don't know who she sent it to, but I am a little worried about
>Mr. Tuton!
>
>
I was wondering that myself. I need a good Beuford story.
Woody
Some men are able to stumble over the truth but are able to pick
themselves up and keep walking as if nothing had happened. (Churchill)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gearbox needed |
>
>Woody,
> I have a brand new, never used B drive I'll sell for $425. 352-622-4064.
>
Your personal email address does not work for me. What is the ratio and
where are you located.
Woody
Some men are able to stumble over the truth but are able to pick
themselves up and keep walking as if nothing had happened. (Churchill)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
Mick Fine wrote:
>..... I wound up using taping-mud (for sheet rock) to fill-in. It was >MUCH easier
to sand.
I'm stretching my memory here, but I think I recall reading that plaster
of paris is a better alternative since it isn't as prone to cracking as
it dries. But I've not used either in this application, so beware.
Marc Robertson
marc@blackberry-ridge.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
Once again, thanks for all the help but I have another question:
Since my 'shop-time' is kinda hit & miss, do I need to do the whole
lay-up (including finishing coat) in a fairly short time? I understand
(I think) that the structural layers need to follow each other before the
previous one is completely cured but will the finish coat with filler
'stick' to a fully cured base (worst case scenario)?
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
>
>Once again, thanks for all the help but I have another question:
>
>Since my 'shop-time' is kinda hit & miss, do I need to do the whole
>lay-up (including finishing coat) in a fairly short time? I understand
>(I think) that the structural layers need to follow each other before the
>previous one is completely cured but will the finish coat with filler
>'stick' to a fully cured base (worst case scenario)?
>
>
>-Mick Fine
Epoxy will just need a sanding smooth. Polyester will need to have the
waxiness knocked off. If you do that, the finish coat will stick fine.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Gone Fishing (finally) |
A couple months ago, what should have been one of those obvious great
ideas finally made it all the way into the dark corners of my brain:
Combine salmon fishing with my hankerin for landing on the gravel bars
of the Sacramento River. As I mentioned yesterday, I postponed again
on this (a fourth time), but today I finally made it out. It was sure nice,
although I was unable to coerce any salmon into making my day a total
success.
One of the odd things about today was the weather. We had strong high
pressure yesterday with winds 15-25mph. I went to the airport this morning
with clear skies, no wind, and a perfect forecast + high thin clouds by
evening. Well about 1pm while standing 3' deep in the Sacto River I realize
that water is coming down as well as swirling around me. I figured I better
pack up. I can't remember such a rapid change from a high pressure dry
California. I was glad to have the knowledge from others here about flying
in rain being okay.
hours
on in moderate rain. No problems. Had a great time seeing the sights in duck
weather. I worked up nerve to land on a bumpy field next to a farm house
where a kid and I always wave at each other. It was nice to finally meet
of loose wood and from the air I thought I'd enjoy warming up, but forgot
about it once I started talking with everybody. The field was about 2
feet high in weeds, thicker than I usually choose, and a big portion of it
star thistle (blech). Almost felt like I was driving a mud truck bouncing
thru there, flingin wet weeds and mud as I motored up and took off. Great
fun. Nice thing was, even after all the mud, my plane was pretty clean when
I got home.
Well, enf gloating, bye for now.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
Scott.Pierskalla(at)HBC.honeywell.com, dwegner(at)isd.net
| Subject: | startup problems |
48-50,54-59,61-63,69-72,74-85
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Ron,
Ron, I'm posting this response to the group so they might benefit too.
Ralph
writes:
>Thanks for the advice, Ralph. You are dazzling me with your *Kolb*
>talk when you mention "foam canoe mounts under the LE". What does this
>mean? Your reference to removing the wing must in order to be able to
get to
>the mag, right?
These canoe mounts are black foam pieces that measure about 7" x 5" x 4"
with a channel cut down the middle to place on a canoe so that it can be
carried on the top of a car upside down without marring the cartop. They
are perfect for sliding on to the LE of the wing when its folded. When
its time for setup, they will protect it from scrapes when it contacts
the surface, especially on asphalt. Since I setup everytime, these are
very handy. I have a set of four of them, two where the bowtip meets the
LE tube and the other two at the end of the ailerons. As the wing is
unfolded, I move the ones from the bowtip to the TE of the wing next to
ones on the aileron. They help protect the wing from dirt and scrapes as
it lays on grass/asphalt.
>Over all of these years, how often did you check, and/or
>reset your timing. The point ignition is more work that the CDI, but I
have
>to make do with what I have. I have never had a plane with CDI so I
>don't know what I'm missing.
I check the timing annually every spring, using a dial indicator. The CDI
will still need to checked every year because I understand that it can go
out of time under vibration.
>I got my engine all back together last evening and did a shortened
>version of the Rotax break-in this afternoon. I was pleased to have it
run
>perfect for a change. The CHT only reached 400* during the 2-minute
full
>throttle run. The only problem I have now is hard starting. It just
won't
>start without giving it a shot of WD-40. Monday I'm ordering a new fan
belt
>and it looks like I'll have to put on a primer. The choke doesn't seem
>to do the trick, but I know it works because it changes the way the
engine
>runs when I operate it while running. It never ends!
A primer is the way to go. The choke will eventually start it after
you've had a workout. When using the choke (enrichener) it's hard to know
how much gas is being delivered to the cylinders. A fine line between
"not enough" and "too much".
>The only thing I have left to do is install the windscreen. It looks
>to me like I will have a very tough time getting into the plane with the
>windshield in place. Therefore, I'm trying to figure a way to secure
>it on the left side and let it swing up on the right side. Do you have
a
>problem getting in yours?
I've seen lexan canopies that simply wrap around without hinges and
fastened on the left side. They seem to work well. I have to put my hands
behind me and lift my body weight up to get in. It also keeps me agile.
Some people will pay money to exercise, I get it for nothing. I ain't
complaining considering what I get to do in just a few moments from that
time.
>maybe I'm still making mountains out of mole hills.
Hey ...... a guy has to ask questions. What else would be the purpose of
all this?
>Catcha later,
>
>Ron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gone Fishing (finally) |
51,53-60
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Now that's what I call adventure Ben! You could even make this into a
network "made-for-TV-movie" living out there in Californy. Better than
the other crap I end up watching.
Ralph
writes:
>
>A couple months ago, what should have been one of those obvious great
>ideas finally made it all the way into the dark corners of my brain:
>Combine salmon fishing with my hankerin for landing on the gravel bars
>
>of the Sacramento River. As I mentioned yesterday, I postponed again
>
>on this (a fourth time), but today I finally made it out. It was sure
>nice, although I was unable to coerce any salmon into making my day a
total
>success.
>
>One of the odd things about today was the weather. We had strong high
>pressure yesterday with winds 15-25mph. I went to the airport this
>morning with clear skies, no wind, and a perfect forecast + high thin
clouds
>by evening. Well about 1pm while standing 3' deep in the Sacto River I
>realize that water is coming down as well as swirling around me. I
figured I
>better pack up. I can't remember such a rapid change from a high
pressure
>California. I was glad to have the knowledge from others here about
>flying in rain being okay.
>
>2 hours on in moderate rain. No problems. Had a great time seeing the
sights
>in duck weather. I worked up nerve to land on a bumpy field next to a
farm
>house where a kid and I always wave at each other. It was nice to
finally
>pile of loose wood and from the air I thought I'd enjoy warming up, but
>forgot about it once I started talking with everybody. The field was
about 2
>
>feet high in weeds, thicker than I usually choose, and a big portion
>of it star thistle (blech). Almost felt like I was driving a mud truck
>bouncing thru there, flingin wet weeds and mud as I motored up and took
off.
>Great fun. Nice thing was, even after all the mud, my plane was pretty
clean
>when I got home.
>
>Well, enf gloating, bye for now.
>-Ben Ransom
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
Richard Pike wrote:
> Epoxy will just need a sanding smooth. Polyester will need to have the
> waxiness knocked off. If you do that, the finish coat will stick fine.
I would strongly recommend getting whatever technical literature is
offered by the resin manufacturer that you choose; it is my
understanding that some expoxies should be washed before recoating if
they have cured. Just sanding will drive at least some of the waxiness
into the surface rather than removing it, leaving you with a more
difficult problem than you started with. But not all epoxies are the
same.
I use West Epoxy for boat building/repair projects. It is not the
cheapest, but is widely available at boat supply places and a wealth of
technical literature (available for only a few dollars) is usually
stocked at the same place. And since at least some epoxy components
require a UPS hazardous materials charge, it often doesn't pay to mail
order small quantities.
Marc Robertson
marc@blackberry-ridge.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | startup problems |
70-75,79-86,88-93,99-108,110-119
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
I re-sent this posting because I forgot the kolb-list removes the spaces
that I had added for clarity. Hope it comes out right this time. Ralph
Ron, I'm posting this response to the group so they might benefit too.
Ralph
writes:
>Thanks for the advice, Ralph. You are dazzling me with your *Kolb*
>talk when you mention "foam canoe mounts under the LE". What does this
>mean? Your reference to removing the wing must in order to be able to
get to
>the mag, right?
These canoe mounts are black foam pieces that measure about 7" x 5" x 4"
with a channel cut down the middle to place on a canoe so that it can be
carried on the top of a car upside down without marring the cartop. They
are perfect for sliding on to the LE of the wing when its folded. When
its time for setup, they will protect it from scrapes when it contacts
the surface, especially on asphalt. Since I setup everytime, these are
very handy. I have a set of four of them, two where the bowtip meets the
LE tube and the other two at the end of the ailerons. As the wing is
unfolded, I move the ones from the bowtip to the TE of the wing next to
ones on the aileron. They help protect the wing from dirt and scrapes as
it lays on grass/asphalt.
>Over all of these years, how often did you check, and/or
>reset your timing. The point ignition is more work that the CDI, but I
have
>to make do with what I have. I had never had a plane with CDI so I
>don't know what I'm missing.
I check the timing annually every spring, using a dial indicator. The CDI
will still need to checked every year because I understand that it can go
out of time under vibration.
>I got my engine all back together last evening and did a shortened
>version of the Rotax break-in this afternoon. I was pleased to have it
run
>perfect for a change. The CHT only reached 400* during the 2-minute
full
>throttle run. The only problem I have now is hard starting. It just
won't
>start without giving it a shot of WD-40. Monday I'm ordering a new fan
belt
>and it looks like I'll have to put on a primer. The choke doesn't seem
>to do the trick, but I know it works because it changes the way the
engine
>runs when I operate it while running. It never ends!
A primer is the way to go. The choke will eventually start it after
you've had a workout. When using the choke (enrichener) it's hard to know
how much gas is being delivered to the cylinders. A fine line between
"not enough" and "too much".
>The only thing I have left to do is install the windscreen. It looks
>to me like I will have a very tough time getting into the plane with the
>windshield in place. Therefore, I'm trying to figure a way to secure
>it on the left side and let it swing up on the right side. Do you have
a
>problem getting in yours?
I've seen lexan canopies that simply wrap around without hinges and
fastened on the left side. They seem to work well. I have to put my hands
behind me and lift my body weight up to get in. It also keeps me agile.
Some people will pay money to exercise, I get it for nothing. I ain't
complaining considering what I get to do in just a few moments from that
time.
>maybe I'm still making mountains out of mole hills.
Hey ...... a guy has to ask questions. What else would be the purpose of
all this?
>Catcha later,
>
>Ron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wayne Welsh <flight(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
Has anyone used the Poly-Fiber products. Especially interested in the
water based products.
http://www.polyfiber.com/step/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Kolb MkII For Sale |
I just made a deal with Rusty to buy his Sling Shot so I need to sell my MkII.
The MkII was built by an A&P. It's a fully enclosed 2-place that's white with
blue trim. Powered by a Rotax 503 with a Culver prop. The engine has 15hrs. on
it since it was sent to Airscrew Performance in AZ for a rebuild & to have it
converted to the electronic ignition with a timing curve (The factory Ducatti
ignition does not have an advance curve.) It has mechanical brakes; shoulderer
harnesses; ASI, CHT, EGT, RPM, Hobbs Meter & Compass. She's priced to sell:
$7,000.
It is a great flying plane waiting for a new owner to fall in love with her!
Contact me at: swidersk(at)digital.net or 1-352-622-4064, or write:
Richard Swiderski
2204 SE Lake Weir Rd.
Ocala, FL 34471
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rbaker2(at)juno.com (Ray L Baker) |
Me Too!
You don't suppose:
1. His ex came back.
2. His wife realized he was out in the garage and hit him with a Honey Do
list.
3. He finished putting his "lawn furniture" together and went flying.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
>
>>
>>PS Has anyone heard from that old bald feller, Beuford Tuton
>recently? I
>>spotted the wife sticking some kind a package ( looked like a food
>item) in
>>the mail. Don't know who she sent it to, but I am a little worried
>about
>>Mr. Tuton!
>>
>>
>
> I was wondering that myself. I need a good Beuford story.
>
>
>
> Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Misc. Questions |
Kolb: 610-948-4136
Mag:423-629-5375
GB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection/Poly Spray |
>>
>> HI Guys,
>>
>>
>> I used the 6 part process but I only sprayed
>the
>> top of the wings and tail surfaces with Poly Spray (silver) to save
>weight.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>John
>> (waiting for weather)Bruzan
Hi Gang:
I am back from my vacation. Missed you all.
If I understand John Bruzan correctly, he only applied Poly Spray on the
top fabric surfaces and not on the bottom surfaces to save weight.
My question is: What will keep UV from degrading the dacron on the bottom
surfaces?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gone Fishing (finally) |
Well Ben, you sure know how to hurt a guy, dontcha ?? That's the kind of
message that'll keep us wannabe's out there abuilding. Sort of an infusion
of enthusiasm. Hope you catch that big one on the next trip. Never did
get any response on the gas tank question. Big Lar.
> From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Gone Fishing (finally)
> Date: Saturday, October 31, 1998 10:28 PM
>
>
> A couple months ago, what should have been one of those obvious great
> ideas finally made it all the way into the dark corners of my brain:
> Combine salmon fishing with my hankerin for landing on the gravel bars
> of the Sacramento River. As I mentioned yesterday, I postponed again
> on this (a fourth time), but today I finally made it out. It was sure
nice,
> although I was unable to coerce any salmon into making my day a total
> success.
>
>
> Well, enf gloating, bye for now.
> -Ben Ransom
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gone Fishing (finally) |
<< Almost felt like I was driving a mud truck bouncing
thru there, flingin wet weeds and mud as I motored up and took off. Great
fun. Nice thing was, even after all the mud, my plane was pretty clean when
I got home.
Well, enf gloating, bye for now.
-Ben Ransom >>
A most satisfying day, I'm sure, Ben......those are the good
storries....keepem comin
.......................GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Full power stalls |
>
>
>Group,
> Someone reported recently that his Kolb (FireFly, I think) would not
stall
>with full power. I didn't understand how that could be, and it got me
thinking.
Good Morning John and Gang:
I have a very fat MK III (630 lbs) that will climb and stall at the same
time with full aft stick. I have a lot of up elevator rigged into it. My
Firestar and Ultrastar would fly the same way. I think it may have
something to do with the pusher configuration. I wonder what it would do
in the tractor configuration?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>
>
>I took Ben's suggestion from a much earlier post regarding replacing the
>normal stock wheels on the FSII with the large tundra tires. I had to
>remove my brakes, but didnt use them very often and found them not that
>effective. Here is my experience after making this change:
Hi Guys:
I fly with 8X6's on the MK III. I run 10 PSI with a GW of 1100+ lbs.
High speed tires are trued and balanced at the factory in most
applications. The 8X6 golf cart tires are not high speed, therefore no
truing and balancing. Mine shook quite a bit on takeoff which could be
relieved by brakes, but added wear to brakes. Got some stick on wheel
balance weights for mag wheels at the local tire shop and static balanced
wheels and tires right on the aircraft. Ndot perfect, but much better.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection/Poly Spray |
I think I can answer this question, since I used 3 cross-coats on top (of
poly spray), and only one on the bottom. My idea was that since I don't fly
inverted, or crow-hop, the sun would never shine on the bottom. So why carry the
extra weight?
John Jung
John Hauck wrote:
>
> Hi Gang:
>
> I am back from my vacation. Missed you all.
>
> If I understand John Bruzan correctly, he only applied Poly Spray on the
> top fabric surfaces and not on the bottom surfaces to save weight.
>
> My question is: What will keep UV from degrading the dacron on the bottom
> surfaces?
>
> john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection/Poly Spray |
> I think I can answer this question, since I used 3 cross-coats on top
(of
>poly spray), and only one on the bottom. My idea was that since I don't fly
>inverted, or crow-hop, the sun would never shine on the bottom. So why
carry the
>extra weight?
>John Jung
Hello again:
I guess I really need some help on this one.
Is there some way to protect surfaces other than the ones on top from
reflected UV? I understand Dacron is impervious to almost anything except
sharp objects and UV, both of which will really do a job on them.
I keep my MK III in a t-hanger that has no front door. When the sun is
shining I get light all over it, top, bottom, front and rear. I sprayed
Polyspray, as prescribed by ole Ray Stitts, all over every inch of fabric.
Didn't want to worry about having to replace it before its time. I also
thought about some of that fabric that is necessary to sustain aerial
flight, gave it an extra shot. hehehe
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection/Poly Spray |
On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, john hauck wrote:
> > I think I can answer this question, since I used 3 cross-coats on top
> (of
> >poly spray), and only one on the bottom. My idea was that since I don't fly
> >inverted, or crow-hop, the sun would never shine on the bottom. So why
> carry the
> >extra weight?
> >John Jung
>
> Hello again:
>
> I guess I really need some help on this one.
>
> Is there some way to protect surfaces other than the ones on top from
> reflected UV? I understand Dacron is impervious to almost anything except
Don't know if I'm getting the question right, but Polytone color paint
can be ordered with UV protection mixed in. Because of this, the only
advantage I know of for polyspray is to build up a little thickness base,
which can be sanded, for a slightly smoother finished color coat. Polyspray
is also useful in fabric repairs for multiple spray and sanding to feather
in patch bumps.
Ben Ransom
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Help |
>
>Once again, thanks for all the help but I have another question:
>
>Since my 'shop-time' is kinda hit & miss, do I need to do the whole
>lay-up (including finishing coat) in a fairly short time? I understand
>(I think) that the structural layers need to follow each other before the
>previous one is completely cured but will the finish coat with filler
>'stick' to a fully cured base (worst case scenario)?
>
It depends on the resin you buy. Many polyester resins have a wax included
to insure a tack free cure. That surface must be removed to bond any
subsequent layers. Some polyester resins are wax less and they cure with a
sticky surface. They do not need any surface removal to realize a good
bond with subsequent layers. The wax less resins will receive a filler
coat, however, the final coat must be sealed from moisture with a waxy
resin or some form of bagging to produce a hard (non sticky) surface.
Another approach to preclude sanding the cured surface of a wax resin is to
use a pel ply to cover the structural layers. This fabric can be ripped
off the surface after the part cures and provides an ideal bonding surface.
The material can be obtained from AS&S as well as some marine supply
stores. If you do this leave something to grab hold of when it comes time
to rip the material off.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection/Poly Spray |
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: UV Protection/Poly Spray
Don't know if I'm getting the question right, but Polytone color paint
>can be ordered with UV protection mixed in. Because of this, the only
>advantage I know of for polyspray is to build up a little thickness base,
>which can be sanded, for a slightly smoother finished color coat.
Polyspray
>is also useful in fabric repairs for multiple spray and sanding to feather
>in patch bumps.
>
> Ben Ransom
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
Hi Gang:
My first project, Ultrastar, was finished with straight Polytone and
Aerothane with UV block added. Worked well, but discovered clear Aerothane
was very difficult to shoot, especially on a first project. Result was a
little amber cast to the clear which changed the red and yellow Polytone
colors a little. Finish, wet look, was superb and a poor Polytone job was
made excellent by the clear coat.
I don't know how long the UV block and clear Aerothane would have lasted
cause I trashed the Ultrastar. However, the Ultrastar was stored outside in
the cow pasture with the cows in direct sunlight. No problems from UV in 18
months, but the cows rubbed the finish off the corners of the elevators and
horizontal stabilizers when they scratched themselves on it. The calves
left some nice teeth prints, full mouth on the trailing edge of the
elevators. Didn't hurt the flying at all.
I had a barbed wire fence around the Ultrastar, but the cattle liked it so
much they would knock the fence down to get to it. Glad there were no
goats. They like to chew and climb.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection/Poly Spray |
In a message dated 11/2/98 12:02:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Is there some way to protect surfaces other than the ones on top from
reflected UV? >>
Yeah, toss a cover of some sort on it. UV degrades dacron over time and
it is cumulative. An unscientific way to describe the rate is to say that a
piece of white dacron will be rendered unairworthy after sitting in direct sun
all summer. I know this from my hang glider days. There is a fabric tester
you can buy which tests the puncture strength of the fabric. That is what
fabric covered GA aircraft use to determine whether the fabric is airworthy or
not.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | 4-stroke engine choice |
Don't know the opinion of the list on auto converted engines but I run
across an interesting web site anyway. It is the Raven redrives page for
Suzuki conversions. They claim a 60 HP engine @ 118 pounds (dry) that has
a bed type mount (a la Rotax) etc. They have several different combinations
for different setups , etc. I am NOT speaking from experience just surfed
across it and ordered their info pack out of curiousity... (Legal
disclaimer, etc. etc. ) Just passing it along.
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
P.S. They even mention Kolb's as a good possibility for a compatible
airframe (along with Titan,Rans, Etc.)
http://www.raven-rotor.com/html/ulinfo.htm
http://www.raven-rotor.com/html/ulprice.html
http://www.raven-rotor.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Gerken <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Where can I buy..., what do ya think? |
Where can I buy Polyurethane foam sheet, real thin, for use in fabrication of
non-flying surfaces? I was thinking about 1/8". I am trying to design
rear-side pod panels for the Mkiii, and I am almost committed to using foam and
resin/cloth. I understand I can make a layup of a couple layers of "S"glass
and Polyester resin on each side of a polyU foam sheet and get a pretty rigid
panel. Does this make sense to you experts?
I figured I'd mold in a "U" shaped front end so it was captured at the front by
the 5/8" tube near your shoulder, then the two sides can bolt together at the
back. This composite approach is currently winning out over lexan (because of
weight) and Poly fiber fabric (because of removability). I don't think it will
be a big deal to loose the visibility of straight back because my neck doesn't
turn that far anyway. And no problem with fuel fumes, this was completely
cured months ago by plumbing the tank vent lines out of the cabin. I also feel
I stand a better chance of having a panel that is less likely to "drum" from
prop or engine vibrations, with the composite instead of aluminum, fabric, or
lexan. And last, the hard smooth surfaces formed by the composite sandwich
will be easy to attach self-adhesive acoustic foam to, if experiments show
there is good gain to be had by it.
Suggestions welcomed...Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gone Fishing (finally) |
Never did get any response on the gas tank question. Big Lar.
What was the question?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I buy..., what do ya think? |
>and get a pretty rigid panel. Does this make sense to you experts?
It is strong, especially if you join the two fiberglas surfaces at the edges
of the panel sandwich by beveling the foam down on one side about 1/2"
inside of the outer edges.
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (50.5 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
I just read some comments in the Tube and Wire magazine that the IVO 3 blade
prop I like so much has a significant disadvantage in cruise speed. My only
comparison has been with a 2 blade Warp Drive that shook the plane badly at
idle and low rpm. I fell in love with the IVO when I borrowed another UL with
the IVO and felt the smoothness. Anyone have experience with a variety of
props out there?
Dick C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection/Poly Spray |
>Don't know if I'm getting the question right, but Polytone color paint
>can be ordered with UV protection mixed in. Because of this, the only
Since I hate to paint sooooo much, and I wanted good UV protection, I put
the UV blocker in both the PolyBrush, and the Polytone. BTW- this was
approved by Stits via Randy (formerly) at R&R. White becomes a bit
off-white, but I sure didn't miss spraying extra coats of paint. The UV
blocker is supposed to be 80% as effective as Silver in the normal Polytone
only usage. Putting it in both probably made it about 100%.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I buy..., what do ya think? |
>I don't think it will
>be a big deal to loose the visibility of straight back because my neck
doesn't
>turn that far anyway.
Good point, but... rearward visability is important! Even the Kolb
UltraStar, which has no fuselage (as such) to get in the way has little
reward visability; mostly because necks just don't swivel 180 and because,
in at least my case, the full face helmet restricts vision even further. :)
I flew Navy fighters for a number of years and we too had the rearward vis
problem. The "partial" answer MAY really be quite simple. The military's
answer to the problem is to use mirrors. (at least 3 in most cockpits) I
don't think that I've seen a single mirror on an ultralight (or near
ultralight). Seems to me to be a reasonable answer to some of our rearward
visability problems. Unless I'm mistaken, it's from the rear (check 6)
that the traffic may come. (I usually don't overtake traffic) :)
Regards,
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gone Fishing (finally) |
Hi Richard: Ben had asked me about the origin of a fuel tank on board a
Titan Tornado at the Castle AFB air show. I passed on the question to a
couple of friends who also read a lot. None of us could find who built
that tank. Big Lar.
> From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gone Fishing (finally)
> Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 12:25 PM
>
>
> Never did get any response on the gas tank question. Big
Lar.
>
> What was the question?
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Christensen" <SPECTRUMINTERNATIONAL(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | MKIII Climb, Stall & Cruise Speed |
From: John Hauck
Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 5:38 AM
SNIP - SNIP
I have a very fat MK III (630 lbs) that will climb and stall at the same
time with full aft stick.
Snip - snip
Hey John:
My 912 powered MKIII is also fat like yours; what are your climb, stall and
cruise speeds? Also, what is your rate of climb?
Thanks in advance,
Ron Chrisensen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4-stroke engine choice |
Hi Jeremy: I saw that Raven ad too, and looked at the engine at
Arlington or Copperstate. Looks real nice, but I think it might be very
tall and have a high thrust line for our application. Otherwise it looks
like a very well done conversion. Anyone else have thoughts ?? I know my
VW is tall too, but I don't think it's so much so. Big Lar.
> Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
> P.S. They even mention Kolb's as a good possibility for a compatible
> airframe (along with Titan,Rans, Etc.)
>
> http://www.raven-rotor.com/html/ulinfo.htm
>
> http://www.raven-rotor.com/html/ulprice.html
>
> http://www.raven-rotor.com/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection/Poly Spray |
The Maule fabric tester is a great tool and a wonderful safety device, but
being in the $300.00 range are too expensive for a limited use such as
ours. In the June ' 96 Experimenter, there is an article on page 34 that
details how to build your own for next to nothing. You can bet that as
Vamoose gets some age on her that I'll be building one.
Big Lar.
> From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: UV Protection/Poly Spray
> Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 10:36 AM
>
. I know this from my hang glider days. There is a fabric tester
> you can buy which tests the puncture strength of the fabric. That is
what
> fabric covered GA aircraft use to determine whether the fabric is
airworthy or
> not.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I buy..., what do ya think? |
>
>Where can I buy Polyurethane foam sheet, real thin, for use in fabrication of
>non-flying surfaces? I was thinking about 1/8". I am trying to design
>rear-side pod panels for the Mkiii, and I am almost committed to using foam and
>resin/cloth. I understand I can make a layup of a couple layers of "S"glass
>and Polyester resin on each side of a polyU foam sheet and get a pretty rigid
>panel. Does this make sense to you experts?
>Suggestions welcomed...Thanks.
Have you ever looked at those paper/foam panels that they sell at
Office Max/Depot? They use them for making display boards like kids use for
science projects, and they are real light weight, and a bit stiffer than
plain foam. Thought about laminating a layer of glass to each side like you
said, but never did.
Saw a thing in the Sport Aviation mag years ago where a large flat
sheet of cardboard, the double sided kind with the wavy corrugation between
was used for a semi-structural panel. It was prepared by taking a pizza
roller and filling it full of brads, with the heads cut off, and rolled over
the cardboard to punch thousands of little holes in it. Then the cardboard
was painted with resin, which ran through the holes and stiffened the inside
corrugation, while it also stiffened the outside plys. Supposed to be real
stiff and light weight.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>
>I just read some comments in the Tube and Wire magazine that the IVO 3 blade
>prop I like so much has a significant disadvantage in cruise speed. Anyone
have experience with a variety of
>props out there?
>Dick C
> It is possible to have a 3 blade Ivo load your engine down to the
point that you have to set the pitch at minimum. Now you have a climb prop
that runs out of wind early in the game. With my 532 and a 64" 3 blade Ivo,
to pitch for load requires too fine a pitch. At 70 MPH, I am wound out. So I
took one blade off, made it a 2 blade, and cranked it up to max pitch. I
lost a little climb, but it cruises fast at low rpm. I am going to a 66" 2
blade Ivo, it should be here next week. That way I will have better climb,
and still good cruise.
The 3 blade is smoother but not much. The 2 blade has a different
sound, caused by the airflow over the wing hitting both blades at once. It
is not bad. The engine sounds like it is running slower with the 2 blade,
not as "Busy".
Tried a 2 blade Warp on the MKIII, it felt rougher, noiser, and one
of the neighbors commented on how much noisier it was. Performance the same
as an Ivo.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MKIII Climb, Stall & Cruise Speed |
>Hey John:
>My 912 powered MKIII is also fat like yours; what are your climb, stall
and
>cruise speeds? Also, what is your rate of climb?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Ron Chrisensen
Hey Gang and Ron:
I am running a 3 blade fast taper 70" diameter Warp Drive with nickle edges.
It is pitched to turn 5500-5600rpm WOT straight and level, depending on
temperature.
It climbs best at 55 to 65 mph (what I believe is pretty accurate). On a
cool day (65-70F) that will give me about 1200-1500 FPM solo and about 10-15
gal fuel on board.
Stalls solo at 38mph clean and 34-35 full flaps. I usually shoot approaches
at 50 but can slow to 40 with full flaps with a margin of safety. At 40 I
am right on top of it and at 50 I have room to relax a little.
My usual cruise is 5000rpm and 75 to 80 mph depending on the temp solo. A
tad slower with two up. Burns 4 gph. 5200 is 80-85 and 4.25 gph. 5400 is
85-90 and 4.5 gph. 5000 is my preferred cruise which is noticeably quieter
and relaxed over higher speeds. The MK III likes to fly in the 75-80 mph
range.
I haven't flown in over a month and the numbers go away quickly when I don't
use them often. But I believe these to be accurate enough from the top of
my head.
The 912 has nearly 1,000 hrs now and performs like it did when new. Last
compression check it had dropped a pound or two but well into the top of the
bracket for compression. Has started to use a little oil, but amount is
negligible at this time. Have used Mobil 1 Full Syn 10w-50 since the first
25 hrs which was run with Castrol GTX 20w-50. I normally use 92 or 93 oct
mogas, but run 100LL on long XCs when mogas is not available.
Think it will go another 1,000 hrs? I hope so. Me and Miss P'fer are going
to shoot for 2,000 total before overhaul.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Wow - New Email Weasel Program... |
Dear Listers,
I wrote a new program tonight I call "The Email Weasel". I've been having
an increasing problem with bounced email in recent months due to the fact
that many of the new email servers on the Internet aren't returning enough
error information for me to properly unsubscribe the offending addresses.
The Email Weasel works like this: A single email message with a unique
serial number is sent to each of the List email addresses. The email
message headers are specially configured so that all of the error messages
and any other responses to the message are returned to a single email box
here on the server. Using these error messages and the special serial
numbers, I was able to "weasel-out" about 30 or so bogus email addresses
from the three email Lists tonight! These 30 bogus addresses had heretofore
thwarted my other mechanisms for flagging bad addresses. Removing this
rather large number of addresses should decrease the amount of bounced
email received here everyday to a great deal. Best of all, it should also
decrease the message post turn-around time by an equally large amount!
I realize that receiving a test message every now and then may annoy a
few people. But, in the interest of keeping the Lists running smoothly,
I think that I will probably start running the Email Weasel about once
a month to weasel-out all those new bogus addresses. It seems like a small
price to pay for a tight ship, don't you think?
I'd like thank everyone for their continued support and encouragement!
Matt Dralle
RV, Kolb, and Zenith List Admin.
Matronics
- Note -
The System Upgrade Fund Raiser is still underway. If you haven't yet made
your contribution to support the most recent List system upgrades, won't you
please do so today? Its fast and easy using the web site below. Thanks!! -MD
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Rutledge Fuller, Tallahassee |
Richard,
Thank you for returning my call last night. I also appreciate you
holding the craft until Sunday. I found a partner who is interested in
the airplane. His name is Charles Davis. He mentioned wanting to stop
by on Friday to look at it. I gave him your number and address.
Thanks again,
Rutledge Fuller
(850) 385-6673
(800) 208-0215
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rutledge Fuller, Tallahassee |
Whoops!!! Sorry everybody!
Rutledge
From: "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Rutledge Fuller, Tallahassee
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 09:45:36 EST
Richard,
Thank you for returning my call last night. I also appreciate you
holding the craft until Sunday. I found a partner who is interested in
the airplane. His name is Charles Davis. He mentioned wanting to stop
by on Friday to look at it. I gave him your number and address.
Thanks again,
Rutledge Fuller
(850) 385-6673
(800) 208-0215
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: fueltank Titan Tornado |
Now I remember! I also asked the owner of that Titan Tornado at Castle AFB
in question regarding that fuel cell and he said that it was originally
used in a racecar.
Frank Reynen MKIII@485hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
Hi Richard: Ben had asked me about the origin of a fuel tank on board a
Titan Tornado at the Castle AFB air show. I passed on the question to a
couple of friends who also read a lot. None of us could find who built
that tank. Big Lar.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: fueltank Titan Tornado |
This thread is gathering steam so i'll add a bit more too. It was
a soft plastic rectangular bag, molded with something like a kevlar
welded aluminum box with no lid. It had a very top quality look, all the
way to fancy fuel cap and capacitance fuel gauge sender. It was bought
from a supplier in L.A. area, who supposedly would make these any size
or shape. He was normally supplying them to Indy/Formula 1 type racing
cars (bigger budget than mine, I'm sure). The company name had the word
"Cell" in it, maybe "Fuel" too. All you Thompson Reg or Web hounds have
at it, but by now I'm not sure who on this list even raised a fuel tank
question a month ago anyway.
-Ben Ransom
On Tue, 3 Nov 1998 Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com wrote:
> Now I remember! I also asked the owner of that Titan Tornado at Castle AFB
> in question regarding that fuel cell and he said that it was originally
> used in a racecar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fueltank Titan Tornado |
>a soft plastic rectangular bag, molded with something like a kevlar
>welded aluminum box with no lid. It had a very top quality look, all the
>way to fancy fuel cap and capacitance fuel gauge sender. It was bought
>from a supplier in L.A. area, who supposedly would make these any size
>or shape. He was normally supplying them to Indy/Formula 1 type racing
>cars (bigger budget than mine, I'm sure). The company name had the word
>"Cell" in it, maybe "Fuel" too. All you Thompson Reg or Web hounds have
At home, I have a nice glossy brochure from a company that fits this
description, but I can't remember their name. I seriously considered using
one of their fuel cells in the SS, but it would have to be custom made to
fit. Considering that they sold most of their products to professional
racing teams, and aerospace companies, I didn't have the nerve to ask the
price. It's a pity that something like this can't be more accessible for
us, because there are many safety benefits. All their tanks were made of
almost puncture proof material, and had safety valves that prevented fuel
from leaking it the tank ended up upside down in a crash.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard neilsen" <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: 4-stroke engine choice -Reply |
Anyone else have thoughts ??
I have talked to a person around Mt Pleasant MI that is building a MKIII with a
Geo motor. He has modified the engine mount so that the engine sits lower in
the cage. At the time he gave me static thrust figures that were nothing short
of incredible but I don't remember what they were. He should be close to flying
by now. If we don't hear from him I will follow up and post more info. This
arrangement sounds like the hot setup.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skeeve(at)excellentproducts.com (dave) |
HI All!
Perhaps the company that is being discussed is ATL Fuel Cells.....
The URL is "Http://www.atlinc.com/
These folks are the #1 maker of bladder type fuel cells for racing apps and
not as expensive a you might think. :-) Very nice, very safe products.
Hope that helps!
>At home, I have a nice glossy brochure from a company that fits this
>description, but I can't remember their name. I seriously considered using
>one of their fuel cells in the SS, but it would have to be custom made to
>fit. Considering that they sold most of their products to professional
>racing teams, and aerospace companies, I didn't have the nerve to ask the
>price. It's a pity that something like this can't be more accessible for
>us, because there are many safety benefits. All their tanks were made of
>almost puncture proof material, and had safety valves that prevented fuel
>from leaking it the tank ended up upside down in a crash.
>
>Rusty
>
>
IMail Server for Windows NT. Evaluation version.
Copyright (c) 1995-98 Ipswitch, Inc. http://www.ipswitch.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Idiot light circuit for oil tank |
I was wondering how those of you who are using the oil injection system with
the oil level sensor, wire it. I am not using a battery and I have a Radio
Shack rectifier (4 amps 100v) for my hobbs using the yellow and yellow/black
leads from Rotax 503 dual ignition. CPS suggests that I install a little
battery in line with the switch and light. It seems to me I should be able
to use the same circuit for my hobbs with a little led light. The only time
it would be drawing current is when the oil tank is actually indicating a
low level condition.
Thanks,
John (N670JW)
wiring up panel..
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Idiot light circuit for oil tank |
John,
The rectifier you're using is just changing the AC from the alternator to
DC but is not maintaining any level of voltage. The Hobbs works because it is
only using a shot of power about every 6 seconds. It energizes a coil to wind
a spring to run the meter. The light would be on for an extended period of
time and you would be feeding it a range of voltages of about 18 volts at idle
and 90 volts at full power. You can't operate a light over that range. The
simplest solution would be the small flash light battery.
Dick Kuntzleman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4-stroke engine choice -Reply |
I'm about 70% finished with a Geo/Raven system. I plan to install it on my Sling
Shot. According to my "eyeballing" at Sun & Fun, assumming you will keep the
same thrust line as a 582, you will have to spread the rear attatch points
about 6" in order to drop it down enough. I would not say the Kolb design lends
itself tp that installation, but any thing is possible & I've got my teeth
set for a big project.
Richard neilsen wrote:
>
> Anyone else have thoughts ??
>
> I have talked to a person around Mt Pleasant MI that is building a MKIII with
a Geo motor. He has modified the engine mount so that the engine sits lower in
the cage. At the time he gave me static thrust figures that were nothing short
of incredible but I don't remember what they were. He should be close to flying
by now. If we don't hear from him I will follow up and post more info. This
arrangement sounds like the hot setup.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Group: Thought some of you might be interested in a new magazine on
the stands. I've just received the 3rd issue of " Custom Planes ",
published by PrivatePilot. LOTS of good technical info. Well worth
looking at. I missed # 1, but read # 2 and sent in my money. # 3
justified it. Good stuff !!! Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection/Poly Spray |
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
writes:
>
>The Maule fabric tester is a great tool and a wonderful safety device,
>but
>being in the $300.00 range are too expensive for a limited use such as
>ours. ....
Check with your local A&P, most of them secretly think our planes are
pretty neat although they can never admit it publicly. Some will even let
you borrow their fabric tester if you ask real nice (but do it when no
'real pilots' are around).
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
Rutledge,
You asked me if the MkII had a chute & I said it ddn't because I intended on
trading it in with BRS for a 950. Last year they made me a terrific deal. I
called them today & they don't remember the call & their present offer is not
reasonable, so I'm going to sell the chute. A new one is just over $2000 & mine
will cost $750 to repack & upgrade. I'm going to advertise it for$900. Are you
interested? If yes, I will not remove it (its enclosed behind seat).
A gentleman from NM just called & wants to wire me 50% tomarrow. I told him
I
said I'd hold it for you untill Sunday. He then offfered me a little perk. I
said I'm in the middle of writing you an e-mail & if you changed your mind, I'd
call him asap. Otherwise I'll stand by what I said. He's got a 172 for 30K if
you know anyone who's interested.
If you know of any good trailer designs/plans or ideas that work well for kolb
trailers, I sure could use them as I need to get building one right away. I
believe a gentleman in your area offered to talk to me but I have not followed
up
on it yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
A couply of my flying friends have spotted a white Mark lll, looks new, (unk
engine) here in Miami. It has been spotted flying, and being towed on a
homemade trailer. I called Kolb, however they don't have any record of a Mark
lll sale (besides mine) in Miami.
Since I'm in the last stages of construction, I'd like to meet this guy and
check out his plane for some ideas........anybody know the owner?
I guess I'll have to do some old fashion foot work.
Thanks,
Rich Bragassa Mk lll
Miami, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: 4-stroke engine choice |
LAR
What type VW do you have on your M/3 I just got a type 4 and I will be
going through it
do you have any thoughts on this engine? , what type of carb did you use
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>
>Hi Jeremy: I saw that Raven ad too, and looked at the engine at
>Arlington or Copperstate. Looks real nice, but I think it might be
>very
>tall and have a high thrust line for our application. Otherwise it
>looks
>like a very well done conversion. Anyone else have thoughts ?? I
>know my
>VW is tall too, but I don't think it's so much so. Big Lar.
>
>> Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>>
>> P.S. They even mention Kolb's as a good possibility for a compatible
>> airframe (along with Titan,Rans, Etc.)
>>
>> http://www.raven-rotor.com/html/ulinfo.htm
>>
>> http://www.raven-rotor.com/html/ulprice.html
>>
>> http://www.raven-rotor.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
Richard,
Take the offer and the perks. I will put the pictures of Rusty's/Your
Slingshot in the mail. Thank you again, and good luck.
Rutledge Fuller
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 00:38:10 +0000
From: Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re:MkII
Rutledge,
You asked me if the MkII had a chute & I said it ddn't because I
intended on
trading it in with BRS for a 950. Last year they made me a terrific
deal. I
called them today & they don't remember the call & their present offer
is not
reasonable, so I'm going to sell the chute. A new one is just over
$2000 & mine
will cost $750 to repack & upgrade. I'm going to advertise it for$900.
Are you
interested? If yes, I will not remove it (its enclosed behind seat).
A gentleman from NM just called & wants to wire me 50% tomarrow. I
told him I
said I'd hold it for you untill Sunday. He then offfered me a little
perk. I
said I'm in the middle of writing you an e-mail & if you changed your
mind, I'd
call him asap. Otherwise I'll stand by what I said. He's got a 172 for
30K if
you know anyone who's interested.
If you know of any good trailer designs/plans or ideas that work
well for kolb
trailers, I sure could use them as I need to get building one right
away. I
believe a gentleman in your area offered to talk to me but I have not
followed up
on it yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Subaru engine on a MKIII |
Here is a link to some pictures of someone putting a Subaru on a MKIII
and the airframe modifications he made.
ftp://ftp.pilgrimhouse.com/pub/DropBox/DougRender%27sEA81/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Additional fuel capacity |
Dennis,
I am interested in installing additional fuel capacity. I want to do this
without compromising the structural integrity of the cage. Would you be
concerned if I were to remove the small diameter tubing that fits around the
top of the standard plastic tanks. I don't think this is providing much
structural support. I believe it is only for the attachment of fabric.
I plan on welding two aluminum tanks 10" x 12" x 18" tall and installing them
instead. I have made a mock up and think I can install this without cutting
any of the main structural tubing on the cage. I am trying to keep it down to
the original 10" due to CG concerns.
I plan on some long cross-countries. I know the bladder is often the
restriction but I want to have the option while I'm still fairly young. I'm
hoping to visit ya'll at Sun-n-Fun one day.
I know you are busy and have trouble with these "what if" questions so I am
also seeking some input from the list. Hope you don't mind.
Thanks in advance for any input and ideas,
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
M3-308
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Idiot light circuit for oil tank |
John,
The rectifier you're using is just changing the AC from the alternator to
DC but is not maintaining any level of voltage. The Hobbs works because it is
only using a shot of power about every 6 seconds. It energizes a coil to wind
a spring to run the meter. The light would be on for an extended period of
time and you would be feeding it a range of voltages of about 18 volts at idle
and 90 volts at full power. You can't operate a light over that range. The
simplest solution would be the small flash light battery.
Dick Kuntzleman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4-stroke engine choice -Reply |
I'm about 70% finished with a Geo/Raven system. I plan to install it on my Sling
Shot. According to my "eyeballing" at Sun & Fun, assumming you will keep the
same thrust line as a 582, you will have to spread the rear attatch points
about 6" in order to drop it down enough. I would not say the Kolb design lends
itself tp that installation, but any thing is possible & I've got my teeth
set for a big project.
Richard neilsen wrote:
>
> Anyone else have thoughts ??
>
> I have talked to a person around Mt Pleasant MI that is building a MKIII with
a Geo motor. He has modified the engine mount so that the engine sits lower in
the cage. At the time he gave me static thrust figures that were nothing short
of incredible but I don't remember what they were. He should be close to flying
by now. If we don't hear from him I will follow up and post more info. This
arrangement sounds like the hot setup.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I buy..., what do ya think? |
I have been thinking about putting a mirror similar to those used by bicycle
riders on the face shield of my helmet. Has anyone tried this yet ?
Duane Mitchell, Tallahassee, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where can I buy..., what do ya think? |
>
>I have been thinking about putting a mirror similar to those used by
bicycle
>riders on the face shield of my helmet. Has anyone tried this yet ?
>Duane Mitchell, Tallahassee, FL
Hi DM and Gang:
I've been out of the loop for a while and maybe I missed something, but why
are you going to put a mirror on your helmet?
I assume you want to see what is behind you. The only aircraft I have ever
flown that had 360 degree visability was the factory MK III, but I couldn't
turn my head around anyhow. When I was flying AH-1G Cobras the front seat
had a review mirror to see the back seat's face. But not to see where we
had been.
What is the requirement to see what is behind you?
If I want to see where I have been I turn the aircraft 90 degrees left or
right. I only have visibilty out the sides and front of my MK III. Filled
in the open area with a 25 gal fuel tank. Don't miss the open area, but
welcome all the cargo area I now have below, where the original fuel tanks
(two 5 gal) were placed.
I'll wait for further comment on what we are looking for behind us before I
make any further comment, or I might get in trouble, er somethin'.
john h (looking ahead in Central Alabma)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanny Fetterman <donaho(at)csrlink.net> |
| Subject: | where do I buy it |
Hi, gang
I once saw a pilot that glued mirrors to the back of his gloves. Looked
silly but worked GREAT, he said.
Lanny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Additional fuel capacity |
John
Good luck on the tanks I know it can be done but if for some reason you
get side tracked I have seen some fuel tanks in V W hotrod magazine they
are 10" dia. x 33L they are made out of 1/16 alum . or smaller and as
shinney as a new dime
this will give you 10 gal.per hole in place of the plastic ones the tray
along with the tray support will have to be removed to let the 33" go
down as far as you can , then hog tie it, or weld in brackets
of some kind to hold it their without cutting the top tank tubing if you
can get in touch with John's brother Jim Hauck he knows what he's doing
when it comes to tanks, and he is easy to talk to
Rick Libersat
>
>Dennis,
>
>I am interested in installing additional fuel capacity. I want to do
>this
>without compromising the structural integrity of the cage. Would you
>be
>concerned if I were to remove the small diameter tubing that fits
>around the
>top of the standard plastic tanks. I don't think this is providing
>much
>structural support. I believe it is only for the attachment of
>fabric.
>
>I plan on welding two aluminum tanks 10" x 12" x 18" tall and
>installing them
>instead. I have made a mock up and think I can install this without
>cutting
>any of the main structural tubing on the cage. I am trying to keep it
>down to
>the original 10" due to CG concerns.
>
>I plan on some long cross-countries. I know the bladder is often the
>restriction but I want to have the option while I'm still fairly
>young. I'm
>hoping to visit ya'll at Sun-n-Fun one day.
>
>I know you are busy and have trouble with these "what if" questions so
>I am
>also seeking some input from the list. Hope you don't mind.
>
>Thanks in advance for any input and ideas,
>
>John Bickham
>St. Francisville, LA
>M3-308
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Your List Admin Gets YAK-18 Ride! |
Hi Listers,
In the spirit of the current List Support Fund Raiser, the RV-List's own
Brian Lloyd wrote me and asked it I would take lunch and a ride in his
YAK-18 in trade for his Contribution. Never one to turn down a thrilling
experience, of course I accepted! I took along my digital camera and
documented the afternoon and I have created a cool web page detailing
the day's events. I want to once again sincerely thank Brian Lloyd for
a wonderful experience.
Enjoy the new web page!
http://www.matronics.com/yak18
Matt Dralle
RV, Kolb, and Zenith List Administrator
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>
>
> Hi, gang
>
> I once saw a pilot that glued mirrors to the back of his gloves. Looked
>silly but worked GREAT, he said.
> Lanny
I have a buddy I fly with, have for years, and he always ends up in
my blind spot, and when I raise a wing to see where he is, he follows me
around, and drives me nuts. So I bought one of those round stick-on convex
mirrors at K-Mart and glued a bicycle clip to the back side of it. I could
hang it anywhere, and then just pick it up, and hold it overhead, off to the
side, or where ever, so I could find him.
You only need a mirror if you have nut friends.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Magazine |
| From: | gar629(at)juno.com (Garrett A Burgess) |
Hey guys I also have a subscription to custom planes and it is definitely
good information
I recommend all of you subscribe (no, I am not a salesman)
Garrett Burgess
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Your List Admin Gets YAK-18 Ride! |
Matt,
Thanks for the pics. That looked like a fun afternoon!!
Geoff Thistlethwaite
P.S. As far as I'm concerned you can post your co.
's brochures anytime, hell for what you're providing I'm surprised their
ain't banners on everything! ....uh don't get any ideas ;)
From: Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com>
; zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 10:59 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Your List Admin Gets YAK-18 Ride!
925-606-1001)
>
>
>Hi Listers,
>
>In the spirit of the current List Support Fund Raiser, the RV-List's own
>Brian Lloyd wrote me and asked it I would take lunch and a ride in his
>YAK-18 in trade for his Contribution. Never one to turn down a thrilling
>experience, of course I accepted! I took along my digital camera and
>documented the afternoon and I have created a cool web page detailing
>the day's events. I want to once again sincerely thank Brian Lloyd for
>a wonderful experience.
>
>Enjoy the new web page!
>
> http://www.matronics.com/yak18
>
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV, Kolb, and Zenith List Administrator
>
>
>
>
>
>Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
>925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
>http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rear view mirrors |
John H. et al My current Kolb is a short windshield, open to the rear, bare
bones FireFly. My main reason for wanting to see what is behind me in flight
is that our gang of Kolbers often fly in twos and threes and I like to know
where the others are, if they are keeping up and if they are out of the way of
my next maneuver. I now carry a small mirror with a handle that lets me see
over the blind spot above the leading edge and through my open cage to the
rear. This works great but I have to dig it out of my pocket, hang on to it
while I am using it and stow it when I am through with it. When I lift one
wing to peek under it my course is temporarialy altered and we all try to
avoid any sudden maneuvers when flying together. We also stay in touch by
off-frequency radio but the radios are not always reliable. Using a mirror
like the one my biker son uses on his goggles/helmet (?) may be feasible.
Just a possibility.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear view mirrors |
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com <MitchMnD(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 08:46 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Rear view mirrors
>
>John H. et al My current Kolb is a short windshield, open to the rear,
bare
>bones FireFly. My main reason for wanting to see what is behind me in
flight
>is that our gang of Kolbers often fly in twos and threes and I like to know
>where the others are, if they are keeping up and if they are out of the way
of
>my next maneuver. I now carry a small mirror with a handle that lets me
see
Mitch and Gang:
Sounds like it would work fine in your situation. I understand the feeling
of not knowing where your buddy is when flying in close proximity together.
My MK III would not benefit from rear view mirror without hanging it on the
outside somewhere, and I don't want to do that. Since the mirror thread
started I have had time to think a little and I remember seeing a mirror on
the UL Tug at Lakeland, to monitor his towed hang glider. Also noticed two
mirrors on CH-53 Jolly Greens at Panama City, Fl, pulling sleds of some type
thru St Andrews Bay and the Gulf. I have seen mirrors on ag helicopters to
check cargo hooks and spray applications. But none of these mirrors were
designed to keep one clear of traffic to the rear.
In my first msg ref rear view mirror in the AH-1G Cobra Helicopter Gunship I
flew in VN I stated the mirror was to watch the rear seat's face, but failed
to further explain the reason. The rear seat is the AC (aircraft Commander)
who flies/has control of the aircraft during gun and rocket runs and the
majority of the time. The front seat is the pilot/gunner who fires the
turret weapons and is not flying the acft during engagement. The mirror
lets the front seat know if his AC is still alive or flying the acft dead or
severely incapacitated. That mirror keeps him informed of his AC's
condition and whether he needs to take the acft to save his butt. The
mirror is not to see what is behind their acft, there is a bulkhead and
transmission pylon blocking any rear view. Flying Hueys, the two pilots can
keep tabs on each other during contact by simply turning their heads in the
direction of the other pilot, AC in left seat and pilot in right. I know
this has nothing to do with building Kolb airplanes, but wanted to clarify
something I said yesterday.
This is only my opinion, but has kept me from having mid-airs over the
years: It is more important to me to know what is in front of me and beside
me than it is in back of me. My little airplane flies forward and I keep my
head on a swivel to keep myself clear to the front and sides. I fly with
strobes that can be seen in 360 degrees. I should never fly formation or in
close proximity to another aircraft without his permission and prior
coordination. Its in the rules. If someone should decide to fly formation
on me without my permission or prior coordination, I think I would have to
follow him home and have a "prayer meeting" with him on the spot.
This brings up the point of radios, announcing our intentions at airports,
and monitoring other traffic in the area. More than once I have encountered
non-radio aircraft right in front of me as I turned final, even though I had
done what I thought was a good visual check as I entered in and flew the
traffic pattern.
I don't place a lot of importance on using a rear view mirror for general
flying of GA and UL type acft. I am sure there are situations that would
warrant a mirror's use, but these are special situations that I don't
generally encounter.
Right now my biggest problem is trying to miss the oversize "cow pies" on my
little airstrip. It takes a little cow manure to make my plane fly well,
but I don't want to over do it. It is getting cold and I don't like to wash
my plane every time it lands at Gantt Int AP.
Again Gang, my own personal opinion on the subject of rear view mirrors in
airplanes.
Have fun, fly safe, and look where you are going.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear view mirrors |
| From: | bobdoebler(at)juno.com (Robert L Doebler) |
>
>John H. et al My current Kolb is a short windshield, open to the
>rear, bare
>bones FireFly. My main reason for wanting to see what is behind me in
>flight
>is that our gang of Kolbers often fly in twos and threes and I like to
>know
>where the others are, if they are keeping up and if they are out of
>the way of
>my next maneuver. I now carry a small mirror with a handle that lets
>me see
>over the blind spot above the leading edge and through my open cage to
>the
>rear. This works great but I have to dig it out of my pocket, hang on
>to it
>while I am using it and stow it when I am through with it. When I
>lift one
>wing to peek under it my course is temporarialy altered and we all try
>to
>avoid any sudden maneuvers when flying together. We also stay in
>touch by
>off-frequency radio but the radios are not always reliable. Using a
>mirror
>like the one my biker son uses on his goggles/helmet (?) may be
>feasible.
>Just a possibility.
>
>FYI: what if you put some velcro on the back of the mirror, and velcro
it to the inside of the cage????? Bob D
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ordered FireStar kit # 3 |
Hola
Yesterday I mailed a check to Kolb for Kit # 3.
I finally had a change to update my web page and add a couple of pictures to
the build log.
I don't know when I'll have time to work on my FireStar II. I've been on the
road too long, working in Mexico City for the last 2 months, coming back every
2 weeks. I'll be working in Kansas City for the next two weeks and in December
I'll be in Mississippi. My Cessna 172 has a fresh annual and I haven't had
the time to fly it :-(.
Any Kolb flyers in the Kansas City area?
Will Uribe
El Paso, Texas
Building a FireStar II, Kit # 1, tail and one wing done, working on left wing.
Your welcome to visit my web page and see what I have done so far. Just click
on the moving LED sign
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gearbox needed |
Hi Richard
Sorry for bothering you about the gear box but the deal I was trying to
arrange fell through and I no longer need the gearbox. Thanks anyway.
Woody
Some men are able to stumble over the truth but are able to pick
themselves up and keep walking as if nothing had happened. (Churchill)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Additional fuel capacity |
Rick,
Do you have any source info, eg., Magazine name; Company name/ph# ?
rick106(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> John
>
> Good luck on the tanks I know it can be done but if for some reason you
> get side tracked I have seen some fuel tanks in V W hotrod magazine they
> are 10" dia. x 33L they are made out of 1/16 alum . or smaller and as
> shinney as a new dime
> this will give you 10 gal.per hole in place of the plastic ones the tray
> along with the tray support will have to be removed to let the 33" go
> down as far as you can , then hog tie it, or weld in brackets
> of some kind to hold it their without cutting the top tank tubing if you
> can get in touch with John's brother Jim Hauck he knows what he's doing
> when it comes to tanks, and he is easy to talk to
>
> Rick Libersat
>
> >
> >Dennis,
> >
> >I am interested in installing additional fuel capacity. I want to do
> >this
> >without compromising the structural integrity of the cage. Would you
> >be
> >concerned if I were to remove the small diameter tubing that fits
> >around the
> >top of the standard plastic tanks. I don't think this is providing
> >much
> >structural support. I believe it is only for the attachment of
> >fabric.
> >
> >I plan on welding two aluminum tanks 10" x 12" x 18" tall and
> >installing them
> >instead. I have made a mock up and think I can install this without
> >cutting
> >any of the main structural tubing on the cage. I am trying to keep it
> >down to
> >the original 10" due to CG concerns.
> >
> >I plan on some long cross-countries. I know the bladder is often the
> >restriction but I want to have the option while I'm still fairly
> >young. I'm
> >hoping to visit ya'll at Sun-n-Fun one day.
> >
> >I know you are busy and have trouble with these "what if" questions so
> >I am
> >also seeking some input from the list. Hope you don't mind.
> >
> >Thanks in advance for any input and ideas,
> >
> >John Bickham
> >St. Francisville, LA
> >M3-308
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)megalink.net> |
>
>
> Hi, gang
>
> I once saw a pilot that glued mirrors to the back of his gloves. Looked
>silly but worked GREAT, he said.
> Lanny
Those of us from the sometimes frozen north use snowmobilers wrist mirrors,
they cost about $5 and can be purchased at any snowmobile dealer around.
They are quality convex mirrors that come in very handy to avoid being run
over by the faster sleds and/or airplanes.
Frank Hodson, Oxford Maine
fwhodson@megalink.net http://www.megalink.net/~fwhodson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Additional fuel capacity |
Richard
Yes I do I have this info at work and will send it to you tomorrow
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>Rick,
> Do you have any source info, eg., Magazine name; Company name/ph#
>?
>
>rick106(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>>
>> John
>>
>> Good luck on the tanks I know it can be done but if for some reason
>you
>> get side tracked I have seen some fuel tanks in V W hotrod magazine
>they
>> are 10" dia. x 33L they are made out of 1/16 alum . or smaller and
>as
>> shinney as a new dime
>> this will give you 10 gal.per hole in place of the plastic ones the
>tray
>> along with the tray support will have to be removed to let the
>33" go
>> down as far as you can , then hog tie it, or weld in
>brackets
>> of some kind to hold it their without cutting the top tank tubing
>if you
>> can get in touch with John's brother Jim Hauck he knows what he's
>doing
>> when it comes to tanks, and he is easy to talk to
>>
>> Rick Libersat
>>
>> >
>> >Dennis,
>> >
>> >I am interested in installing additional fuel capacity. I want to
>do
>> >this
>> >without compromising the structural integrity of the cage. Would
>you
>> >be
>> >concerned if I were to remove the small diameter tubing that fits
>> >around the
>> >top of the standard plastic tanks. I don't think this is providing
>> >much
>> >structural support. I believe it is only for the attachment of
>> >fabric.
>> >
>> >I plan on welding two aluminum tanks 10" x 12" x 18" tall and
>> >installing them
>> >instead. I have made a mock up and think I can install this
>without
>> >cutting
>> >any of the main structural tubing on the cage. I am trying to keep
>it
>> >down to
>> >the original 10" due to CG concerns.
>> >
>> >I plan on some long cross-countries. I know the bladder is often
>the
>> >restriction but I want to have the option while I'm still fairly
>> >young. I'm
>> >hoping to visit ya'll at Sun-n-Fun one day.
>> >
>> >I know you are busy and have trouble with these "what if" questions
>so
>> >I am
>> >also seeking some input from the list. Hope you don't mind.
>> >
>> >Thanks in advance for any input and ideas,
>> >
>> >John Bickham
>> >St. Francisville, LA
>> >M3-308
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>
> ....I once saw a pilot that glued mirrors to the back of his gloves.
...
Just don't forget and swipe your nose - Yeeeoww!
-Mick Fine
Tulsa, Oklahoma
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/froghair
Green Country Ultralight Flyer's Organization (UFO)
http://www.angelfire.com/ok/gcufo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
When John Glenn gets back from space - everybody where an ape suit.
!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ - List Digest-Mode Available... |
Hi Listers,
I often get questions about the "Digest-Mode" available for the Lists. Below
I've included the information from the List FAQ regarding what the Digest-Mode
is, how it works, and how to subscribe. If you have further questions, please
let me know.
Please don't forget that the List Upgrade Fund Raiser is still underway.
If you haven't yet made your contribution to support the latest major
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If you prefer to send a person check, you may send it to:
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Thank you for your support! It truly makes the List possible.
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List Admin.
============ Digest Mode - What It Is and How To Subscribe ==============
This digest will contain basically the same data that is currently appended
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To subscribe to the digest list, simply send an email message to:
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Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Experimenter picture |
Group,
While Kitplanes did not publish a picture of my Firestar II, Mary
Jones took a picture herself, and put it on page 17 of the November
issue of Experimenter. While parking my Firestar at Oshkosh last summer,
I saw Mary with her camera. I called out to her, "Hey Mary, take a
picture of my new plane. I built it in 6 weeks." She took the best
picture of my plane, so far. For those that don't already know, Mary
Jones is the editor of the EAA Experimenter magazine and she writes
articles and does her own photography.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Experimenter picture |
> While Kitplanes did not publish a picture of my Firestar II, Mary
>Jones took a picture herself, and put it on page 17 of the November
>issue of Experimenter.
I saw that last night reading my copy!!! Congratulations for getting Kolb
(and your plane) some much deserved publicity!!!
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Wear due eye "where" thiz soot? GB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig, Peter" <PCraig(at)ctihelix.com> |
| Subject: | Experimenter picture |
Hello all,
My name is Peter Craig. I live in Malden, MA which is 10 min. north of
Boston. I just got on the list. I'm building a Mk III. Started in January of
97, about half done now??? Just mounted the wings. John, I just saw your
plane in Experimenter...looks great! I have a question. I just received the
wheels and tires and noticed that the tires are rated for a maximum of
362lbs ea. @ 14psi. Thought that was a little low as the all up weight of
the MkIII is 900/1000lbs. While I'm waiting for Dennis to get back to me I'm
wondering what other MkIII owners have.
Peter Craig
Malden, MA
MkIII 0.5
Group,
While Kitplanes did not publish a picture of my Firestar II, Mary
Jones took a picture herself, and put it on page 17 of the November
issue of Experimenter. While parking my Firestar at Oshkosh last summer,
I saw Mary with her camera. I called out to her, "Hey Mary, take a
picture of my new plane. I built it in 6 weeks." She took the best
picture of my plane, so far. For those that don't already know, Mary
Jones is the editor of the EAA Experimenter magazine and she writes
articles and does her own photography.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Monroe" <pmmonroe(at)pe.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: matrinics.com: |
host not found)
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON(at)pe.net>
Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 9:22 AM
Subject: Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: matrinics.com: host not
found)
>from root@lasierra [216.100.16.34]
>
>
>
>550 ... Host unknown (Name server: matrinics.com:
host not found)
>
report-type=delivery-status
Reporting-MTA: dns; smtp.pe.net
Received-From-MTA: DNS; lasierra
Arrival-Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 09:22:09 -0800 (PST)
Final-Recipient: RFC822; kolb-list(at)matrinics.com
Action: failed
Remote-MTA: DNS; matrinics.com
Last-Attempt-Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 09:22:11 -0800 (PST)
From: "Monroe" <pmmonroe(at)pe.net>
Subject: Please unsubscribe me
Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 09:19:56 -0800
pmmonroe(at)pe.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Experimenter picture |
.com>
>
I just received the wheels and tires and noticed that the tires are rated
for a maximum of 362lbs ea. @ 14psi. Thought that was a little low as the
all up weight of
the MkIII is 900/1000lbs. While I'm waiting for Dennis to get back to me I'm
wondering what other MkIII owners have.
Peter Craig
Malden, MA
MkIII 0.5
513 pounds empty weight, and wimpy wheels. Keep enough air in the tires and
they will do fine. The wheel bearings are not too good. Currently we are
restricted by the design of the wheel hub. Will try to work up an easy fix
this winter.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Additional fuel capacity |
Richard
This is what I have Magazine name ( hot V W 's ) the company is
SO (south) CAL IMPORTS INC. ph# (562) 633-4979 Their prices seem to
be in line with the rest of the vendors in the same mag. the add reads
Spun Aluminum Tanks Kit's 8x16,24,30,or 33.......79.95
10x30 or 33"
..............84.95
Shut-Off Valve
...........................................7.95
I will send you a pic of this mornings
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>Rick,
> Do you have any source info, eg., Magazine name; Company name/ph#
>?
>
>rick106(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>>
>> John
>>
>> Good luck on the tanks I know it can be done but if for some reason
>you
>> get side tracked I have seen some fuel tanks in V W hotrod magazine
>they
>> are 10" dia. x 33L they are made out of 1/16 alum . or smaller and
>as
>> shinney as a new dime
>> this will give you 10 gal.per hole in place of the plastic ones the
>tray
>> along with the tray support will have to be removed to let the
>33" go
>> down as far as you can , then hog tie it, or weld in
>brackets
>> of some kind to hold it their without cutting the top tank tubing
>if you
>> can get in touch with John's brother Jim Hauck he knows what he's
>doing
>> when it comes to tanks, and he is easy to talk to
>>
>> Rick Libersat
>>
>> >
>> >Dennis,
>> >
>> >I am interested in installing additional fuel capacity. I want to
>do
>> >this
>> >without compromising the structural integrity of the cage. Would
>you
>> >be
>> >concerned if I were to remove the small diameter tubing that fits
>> >around the
>> >top of the standard plastic tanks. I don't think this is providing
>> >much
>> >structural support. I believe it is only for the attachment of
>> >fabric.
>> >
>> >I plan on welding two aluminum tanks 10" x 12" x 18" tall and
>> >installing them
>> >instead. I have made a mock up and think I can install this
>without
>> >cutting
>> >any of the main structural tubing on the cage. I am trying to keep
>it
>> >down to
>> >the original 10" due to CG concerns.
>> >
>> >I plan on some long cross-countries. I know the bladder is often
>the
>> >restriction but I want to have the option while I'm still fairly
>> >young. I'm
>> >hoping to visit ya'll at Sun-n-Fun one day.
>> >
>> >I know you are busy and have trouble with these "what if" questions
>so
>> >I am
>> >also seeking some input from the list. Hope you don't mind.
>> >
>> >Thanks in advance for any input and ideas,
>> >
>> >John Bickham
>> >St. Francisville, LA
>> >M3-308
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)ulster.net> |
| Subject: | Wannabe, now gonnabe a Mk II owner! |
Wow, got my homework cut out for me now! I'm buying Richard Swiderski's Mk
II in Florida and I'm 1100 miles away in NY. And it's winter. I'm going to
take a week's vacation and drive down to pick it up in a month or so. 'Cept
I need a trailer. A past kolb-lister, Ray Lujon, told me about Aluma Ltd
aluminum trailers (http://www.alumaltd.com) that I might order and have
shipped down there. And Richard kindly - after a heart-felt plea - offered
to see about having a light-weight "T-bar" type trailer made up for me. My
car (Geo Tracker) will only tow Class I trailers, and the Mk II is going to
have to suffer an 1100 mi road trip, so it's got to be light and soft. If
any Floridians in the neighborhood of Ocala have any ideas, I'd (& Richard
too) love to hear them!
Then after I return - well, I've got a month to find a place to keep it. No
garage here.
And finally, how to fly? Richard offered to check me out - I've got a
non-current pilot's license, checked out in the 150, 172 & 177. But to make
it official, so I'm looking for a BFI in the Hudson Valley area of NY.
david (BIG grin) bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Experimenter picture |
Saw that picture, John. Very nice job. Congratulations.
Big Lar.
> From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Experimenter picture
> Date: Friday, November 06, 1998 1:39 AM
>
>
> Group,
> While Kitplanes did not publish a picture of my Firestar II, Mary
> Jones took a picture herself, and put it on page 17 of the November
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Squirrels in the Gear! |
Hi:
I am Paige Straley, and I fly a FS (KXP, '92). Bought this bird a couple of
months ago. Did a hard pasture landing and bent the gear a little. Flopped
the bad leg, reinstalled wheel/brake, and now it is squirrelly on landings,
Any suggestions?
I am in Charlotte, North Carolina, by the way.
Paige
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Souder <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
>
>Hi:
>
>I am Paige Straley, and I fly a FS (KXP, '92). Bought this bird a couple of
>months ago. Did a hard pasture landing and bent the gear a little. Flopped
>the bad leg, reinstalled wheel/brake, and now it is squirrelly on landings,
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>
Probably the flipping of the gear changed the alignment of the wheels, but
this is not usually noticeable on grass. If it is squirrelly on grass, the
alignment must be way off. On pavement even a little misalignment will do
as you describe. You need to realign the wheels. Probably the easiest way
is to remove the top gear leg attach bolt and move the gear leg in or out
about 3/4" align the wheels and drill a new hole through gear legs.
Dennis Souder
Pres Kolb Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
>
>Hi:
>
>I am Paige Straley, and I fly a FS (KXP, '92). Bought this bird a couple of
>months ago. Did a hard pasture landing and bent the gear a little. Flopped
>the bad leg, reinstalled wheel/brake, and now it is squirrelly on landings,
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>I am in Charlotte, North Carolina, by the way.
>
>Paige
If it was a car, I would tell you to go get the front end aligned. Since
it is a Kolb, I would tell you to get the main gear aligned. :)
Seriously, you need to do a careful alignment to see what is not straight.
Probably the gear that was bent and flopped now has that wheel pointing in
or out.
Is it possible to take the bent leg and take it to a machine shop and have
it pressed straight, and then reinstall as original? (Assuming it tracked
well before the bending)
If that does not correct the tracking, is it possible to get the leg
straight, and then raise or lower both legs a bit, align for trueness, and
then drill new holes to anchor the gear legs in the frame?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Hi Paige, and welcome to the club. As Dennis said, your wheel alignment
is no longer "true" and may not have been true when you bought it. When
you flipped the gear leg around, it changed the alignment slightly. Many
of us do this after a rough landing. To see how bad it is, stand about
50' in front of the plane and look at the wheels on level ground. It may
be easier to order some new gear legs, they're not that expensive. When
you get them, you can use a couple of long
2 x 4's butted against each wheel measuring equal distance between the
ends of the 2 x 4's and to a point on the front of the plane. Do the same
the at the other end of the 2 x 4's. When you satisfied with the
alignment, drill the hole through
each axle socket and the bottom of the leg, then you're done. Before
drilling, stand back from the plane and look at each wheel. Your eye is a
good detector for checking angles, and even more so because you are a
pilot.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
>
>Hi:
>
>I am Paige Straley, and I fly a FS (KXP, '92). Bought this bird a
>couple of months ago. Did a hard pasture landing and bent the gear a
little.
>Flopped the bad leg, reinstalled wheel/brake, and now it is squirrelly
on
on
>takeoff.
>
>Any suggestions?
>
>I am in Charlotte, North Carolina, by the way.
>
>Paige
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
Some opinions desired...... Does the leg get weaker to any significant
degree after having it straightened?? (I.E. metal fatigue stuff?) Keep in
mind these are very gradual bends when the gear is ususally bent, and not a
'crease' as we think of when bending a wire back and forth til it breaks.
Jon
> Is it possible to take the bent leg and take it to a machine shop and have
>it pressed straight, and then reinstall as original? (Assuming it tracked
>well before the bending)> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
I have had about four (4) landing legs straightened now, and they are as
good as ever. One was bent about 30 degrees, so it will abviously not
be reused even if it was re-straightenend. There is no realignment
problem unless the leg was twisted. I land in a cow pasture now and
sometimes my wheels hit hidden holes made by the grazing cattle. I
use to have the tundra tires, but the tube needed with them tends to
slide inside the tire severing the valve stem while turn-braking. I am
now stuck with the smaller tubless tires that are more effected by these
cow holes in the tall grass. You will be surprised by the amount of
excess bend you must re-apply to these landing legs to straighten them.
Good luck
Richard Bluhm of Boron Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
>
>I have had about four (4) landing legs straightened now, and they are as
>good as ever. One was bent about 30 degrees, so it will abviously not
>be reused even if it was re-straightenend.
Don't throw it away. If you ever land hard off in the middle of a field
some where you may want some gear to mount back on so you can pull it out
rather than carry it out. Please don't ask how I came up with this little
bit of wisdom. It may also be wise to carry it on the plane in case you need
a real quick fix.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
My understanding is that you can usually get away with bending those tempered legs
back once. Any more & they can suddenly snap later on.
Richard Bluhm wrote:
>
> I have had about four (4) landing legs straightened now, and they are as
> good as ever. One was bent about 30 degrees, so it will abviously not
> be reused even if it was re-straightenend. There is no realignment
> problem unless the leg was twisted. I land in a cow pasture now and
> sometimes my wheels hit hidden holes made by the grazing cattle. I
> use to have the tundra tires, but the tube needed with them tends to
> slide inside the tire severing the valve stem while turn-braking. I am
> now stuck with the smaller tubless tires that are more effected by these
> cow holes in the tall grass. You will be surprised by the amount of
> excess bend you must re-apply to these landing legs to straighten them.
> Good luck
> Richard Bluhm of Boron Ca.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mefine1(at)juno.com (Mick Fine) |
>
>Wear due eye "where" thiz soot? GB
Oo sdop Rupert, yur rapieer wid iz two mush.!
I thought it was a funny comment and forwarded it to the list without
doing a spell check - please forgive me.
(Does this mean Monica will get the Mars shot? ...so to speak).
-Miq Phyn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
Hi Richard: If you check carefully, with reference marks, I think
you'll find that the tire was slipping on the rim, dragging the tube with
it and damaging the tube. I don't know the width of your rim or the
thickness of the tire bead, but there's an old drag racers' trick that may
help you go back to tundra tires. What they do is drill through the rim
of the wheel and barely into the bead of the tire. Then screw sheet metal
screws through the holes into the bead of the tire. Probably four, maybe
six or more screws per tire. It prevents spinning the tire on the rim of a
low pressure slick on a high horsepower dragster, so should hold in your
situation. Let us know if it works for you. Big Lar.
> From: Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Squirrels in the Gear!
> Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 5:54 PM
>
>
> use to have the tundra tires, but the tube needed with them tends to
> slide inside the tire severing the valve stem while turn-braking.
> > Richard Bluhm of Boron Ca.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
Hey Woody: Puh-leeeze let us ask. Big Lar.
> From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Squirrels in the Gear!
> Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 7:33 PM
>
>
>. Please don't ask how I came up with this little
> bit of wisdom. It may also be wise to carry it on the plane in case you
need
> a real quick fix.
>
> Woody
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wannabe, now gonnabe a Mk II owner! |
To hell with the trailer. Fly it to NY. : ) Enjoy the plane, and good
luck!
From: "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)ulster.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Wannabe, now gonnabe a Mk II owner!
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 20:37:25 -0500
Wow, got my homework cut out for me now! I'm buying Richard Swiderski's
Mk
II in Florida and I'm 1100 miles away in NY. And it's winter. I'm
going to
take a week's vacation and drive down to pick it up in a month or so.
'Cept
I need a trailer. A past kolb-lister, Ray Lujon, told me about Aluma
Ltd
aluminum trailers (http://www.alumaltd.com) that I might order and have
shipped down there. And Richard kindly - after a heart-felt plea -
offered
to see about having a light-weight "T-bar" type trailer made up for me.
My
car (Geo Tracker) will only tow Class I trailers, and the Mk II is going
to
have to suffer an 1100 mi road trip, so it's got to be light and soft.
If
any Floridians in the neighborhood of Ocala have any ideas, I'd (&
Richard
too) love to hear them!
Then after I return - well, I've got a month to find a place to keep it.
No
garage here.
And finally, how to fly? Richard offered to check me out - I've got a
non-current pilot's license, checked out in the 150, 172 & 177. But to
make
it official, so I'm looking for a BFI in the Hudson Valley area of NY.
david (BIG grin) bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
Richard,
I am using 8x6 tundra tires and running tubless.
I am
now stuck with the smaller tubless tires that are more effected by these
cow holes in the tall grass. You will be surprised by the amount of
excess bend you must re-apply to these landing legs to straighten them.
Good luck
Richard Bluhm of Boron Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire/Tube movement |
On Sun, 8 Nov 1998, Larry Bourne wrote:
> you'll find that the tire was slipping on the rim, dragging the tube with
> it and damaging the tube. I don't know the width of your rim or the
> thickness of the tire bead, but there's an old drag racers' trick that may
I believe the tube works its way around inside, *without* the tire
slipping on the rim. This occurs on my plane (with big tundra tires)
and just as badly when I flew for ~1 year without brakes. Some will
tire (pun i guess) of my analogy, but it is just like pushing a bike
with a flat tire. At low pressure and a lot of surface area between
tube/tire and ground, the tube gets squooshed forward.
I've even tried sloppying sticky goo inside the tire. I used belt
tensioner liquid, instead of a real glue, as I knew I'd also want to
separate the tube and tire eventually. I just keep an eye on it and
re-position occassionally.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | bolt bushings (for oversizing) |
A few weeks back I asked about good methods for fixing slop in
a bad 1/4" hole thru my axle fitting, where I had been "drill
size challenged" about simply drilling it thru to 5/16" or metric.
I must have really not wanted to make a bigger hole, because I
made this the occassion to try JB Weld. A machinist friend had
told me he used JB for this sort of application in the past. Man,
I'm impressed; that stuff cures very hard. Of course I don't have
many test hours on it yet. But I had landed on a couple of very
rough gravel bars and about 6 more regular fields. The hole
is still fixed with no slop. I wouldn't assume JB is good for
tension, but for this type of filler need, JB looks great.
(PS: to allow me to get the bolt back out later, i had covered it in
mold release wax before putting it in with the wet JB.)
-Ben Ransom
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
Does anyone know where the great desert storage area is for military
aircraft?I recently read an article about it but can't find it anywhere and
I would like to find out more about it. My web searches didn't find it.
Maybe someone on the list can help.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
>
>Hey Woody: Puh-leeeze let us ask. Big Lar.
>
Lets just say it was the hottest day of the year in 7ft tall corn and a
student beside me experiencing his first off airport landing.The heat and
the corn made it awfull hard for the 2 of us to carry it out. I would have
sold my right kidney for a spare leg that day.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | support(at)matronics.com (Matronics Technical Support 925-606-1001) |
"Re: Message to List Contained MIME..." (Nov 8, 2:04pm)
| Subject: | Re: Enclosures to the List |
>Matt
>>
>>Hello,
>>
>>You say...
>>
>> The message you posted to the List below contained MIME enclosure data and
>> cannot be read by some.....
>>
>
> I don't really understand, this was a standard JPEG file of the plane,
>other people have posted pix in fact they are often more important than the
>queries which are often difficult to understand. I think a pic showing how
>neat the cowl looks is better than pages of explanation. Every single user
>of Internet Explorer etc should be able to open a .JPG file. No? How
>about trying it.
> Bernie G
Hi Bernie and Listers et al,
I have filters on incoming List messages looking for MIME, HTML, and
UUEncoding. When any these encodings are encountered, the message is
returned to the sender with a canned message prepended indicating "why"
the message was not posted.
A few email applications if configured in the default manner, will include
either a MIME or UUEncoded "enclosure" at the end of each message that
is essentially "state information" for the email program and optional text
formatting data. These typically add 3-5KB to the message - data that
is completely of no use to most people. If everyone on the Lists used an
email application that sent this data, it would add 15-24MB of totally
useless data to postings and the archive each month! Add to that the 5-10MB
of "legitimate" bitmap posting that people attempt each month, and well,
you get the picture.
Also keep in mind that each and every post goes out to anywhere from 300
to 1000 people - most of which are downloading over a 28,800 baud modem.
A posting to the RV-List that included a 100KB enclosure (very common
high quality JPG bitmap size) would mean over *100MB* of data being resent
in total working the Internet connection hard!
Long ago, I had to disallow posting of all forms of enclosures to the Lists.
The archive is huge and growing everyday, making searches take longer and
just general processing of the archive more cumbersome. One post containing
a number of large bitmap enclosures can be as much data as a month's worth
of text postings. The RV-List Archive is currently at 55MB and that doesn't
include any enclosures - imagine how huge it would be by now if I had...?
Based on what I've seen (I get notification whenever a message is rejected)
I would estimate that the RV-List archive would be in the 1GB range by now -
a size that would be totally unmanageable. While the numbers for the
Kolb and Zenith lists are lower, the same thing applies.
If you have bitmaps you would like to share with the rest of the List, I
would be more than happy to add them to the Bitmaps section of the respective
List webpage. Please let me know.
Best Regards,
Matt Dralle
List Admin.
Technical Support | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | support(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com W.W.W. | Specializing in Aircraft Avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
There is an airplane (military) grave yard in the Tucson Arizona area, but I
do not know if it is the one that you are looking for.
Jay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
If memory serves me correctly it is at Davis-Monthis ?sp? Air Force Base in
New Mexico I believe. That wrinkle in my brain is very old so don't bet the
family fortune on it but I think that's right...
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 1:39 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: off topic
>
> Does anyone know where the great desert storage area is for military
>aircraft?I recently read an article about it but can't find it anywhere and
>I would like to find out more about it. My web searches didn't find it.
>Maybe someone on the list can help.
>
>Woody
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F J MARINO" <FMARINO(at)netlink1.nlcomm.com> |
Woody; the storage area for old/new military aircraft is Davis Monthan Air
Base in AZ. close to Ymua. Benn there a lot with the airforce. If that is
the desert your talking about.
Frank
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 10:38 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: off topic
>
> Does anyone know where the great desert storage area is for military
>aircraft?I recently read an article about it but can't find it anywhere and
>I would like to find out more about it. My web searches didn't find it.
>Maybe someone on the list can help.
>
>Woody
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F J MARINO" <FMARINO(at)netlink1.nlcomm.com> |
The Air Base you are interested in is Davis Monthan AFB in AZ close to Yuma.
They don't really have many old aircraft as they cut them up they pretty
well cleaned up the bone yard out there. They still have some early jets
left. Its sad to watch them drop the big plade down and cut them in half and
push them in the furnace. But thats where the bone yard is.
Frank
From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 10:38 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: off topic
>
> Does anyone know where the great desert storage area is for military
>aircraft?I recently read an article about it but can't find it anywhere and
>I would like to find out more about it. My web searches didn't find it.
>Maybe someone on the list can help.
>
>Woody
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: bolt bushings (for oversizing) |
Ben
Glad the J B weld did the job , but if for some reason it comes out I can
send you the
BELZONA it is like the JB ,2 part mix and it is machineable. their is
always more than one way to skin a cat
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>
>A few weeks back I asked about good methods for fixing slop in
>a bad 1/4" hole thru my axle fitting, where I had been "drill
>size challenged" about simply drilling it thru to 5/16" or metric.
>
>I must have really not wanted to make a bigger hole, because I
>made this the occassion to try JB Weld. A machinist friend had
>told me he used JB for this sort of application in the past. Man,
>I'm impressed; that stuff cures very hard. Of course I don't have
>many test hours on it yet. But I had landed on a couple of very
>rough gravel bars and about 6 more regular fields. The hole
>is still fixed with no slop. I wouldn't assume JB is good for
>tension, but for this type of filler need, JB looks great.
>
>(PS: to allow me to get the bolt back out later, i had covered it in
>mold release wax before putting it in with the wet JB.)
>
>-Ben Ransom
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
>
>The Air Base you are interested in is Davis Monthan AFB in AZ close to Yuma.
>They don't really have many old aircraft as they cut them up they pretty
>well cleaned up the bone yard out there. They still have some early jets
>left. Its sad to watch them drop the big plade down and cut them in half and
>push them in the furnace. But thats where the bone yard is.
>
> Frank
Thanks Frank. I was kind of hoping there would be a big delta wing
Canadian aircraft from 1959 hidden away in a corner somewhere. Probably not
if they chop them up after the are done with them.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
>>The Air Base you are interested in is Davis Monthan AFB in AZ close to Yuma.
The military aircraft boneyard is at Davis Monthan AFB near Tuscon, AZ not
Yuma.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
<< I
use to have the tundra tires, but the tube needed with them tends to
slide inside the tire severing the valve stem while turn-braking. >>
This is probably caused by the tire slipping on the rim, due to low air
pressure. Wayyyyy back in the olden days of sportsman motorcycle racing (when
we used modified street going bikes), the wheels usually did not have security
bolts, a device that pinches the tire bead against the rim, to prevent the
tire from slipping on the rim. My dealer/mechanic, Edgar J Kauffman, came up
with a workable idea. Maybe it would work for you. Drill a small hole
through the side of the wheel rim. Insert a sheet metal screw into the hole
so the tip end will penetrate into the tire bead. Of course, be sure the
screw does not go into the tube. On the motorcycles, we used 4 screws per
side, 8 total, spaced equally around the rim. This will keep the tire from
slipping on the rim and thus tearing out the valve stem. On these smaller
diameter tires, perhaps 2 screws per side would do it. (MO)
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ
Original FireStar 377
300 hours and still going strong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John S. Flannery" <jflan(at)zianet.com> |
The airbase is near Tucson, Az, not Tucson or Yuma
>
>
>>>The Air Base you are interested in is Davis Monthan AFB in AZ close to Yuma.
>
>The military aircraft boneyard is at Davis Monthan AFB near Tuscon, AZ not
>Yuma.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gar629(at)juno.com (Garrett A Burgess) |
in Flying mag march 98 it talks about the mojave airport. former marine
base now a retirement home for military planes and some civillan ones. it
is home to Burt Rutan's Scaled composite corp. the maker of the
var-ez,longez and designer of the voyage and that is about it
garrett burgess
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Were you thinking about the CF-105 Arrow Woody ?? Didn't think it ever
went into production. Shame too, it was a beauty - ahead of its' time.
There's a grand old CF-100 Canuck at Castle AFB. Also a British Avro
Vulcan. Talk about a BIG delta winged aircraft. Big Lar.
> From: wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: off topic
> Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 6:48 PM
>
>
> Thanks Frank. I was kind of hoping there would be a big delta wing
> Canadian aircraft from 1959 hidden away in a corner somewhere. Probably
not
> if they chop them up after the are done with them.
>
> Woody
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)tcac.net> |
>
>
>>>The Air Base you are interested in is Davis Monthan AFB in AZ close to
Yuma.
>
>The military aircraft boneyard is at Davis Monthan AFB near Tuscon, AZ not
>Yuma.
Davis Monthan Aircraft Storage Facility is actually right on the south east
side of Tucson AZ. Comprised of many acres of pickled aircraft. They use
two levels of pickling. One stage can be flight ready in less than 30 days,
by unwrapping, refueling and inspecting. The other stage would require more
maintenance, but could be made flight ready in something like 60 days.
There were many aircraft there in late 89, but I have my doubts that
anything from the 50's would have still been pickled at that point.
Pima Air Museum is located adjacent to the boneyard and is worth seeing.
In addition to the military craft, there are many "civilian" ac such as
707's and later models that could be put into service as personnel
transport.
I lived just south of there for 5 years, ending in 1989. At the time the
boneyard was called the third largest airforce in the world.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)ulster.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wannabe, now gonnabe a Mk II owner! |
>
>
>To hell with the trailer. Fly it to NY. : ) Enjoy the plane, and good
>luck!
As luck would have it, none other than Dennis Souder will trailer it back to
PA for me. Even from PA, no one recommends I fly it home, tho it's surely
tempting! Please pray for good wx and extra considerate drivers for his
mission of mercy. Then, from PA, he might even be able to find a pilot to
ferry it to NY.
Spent considerable time trying to finagle a cheap trailer (ask Richard
Swiderski!). The $300 "Home Depot" type trailers are now $500, use leaf
springs, and THEN it must be modified. Still not sure if I'll need to get
one, but it seems hard to beat Dennis' Kolb trailer if I do.
Now, for some kind of shelter for the field I've found.....
Thanks all!
David Bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Wannabe, now gonnabe a Mk II owner! |
On Mon, 9 Nov 1998, David Bruner wrote:
> Spent considerable time trying to finagle a cheap trailer (ask Richard
> Swiderski!). The $300 "Home Depot" type trailers are now $500, use leaf
> springs, and THEN it must be modified. Still not sure if I'll need to get
> one, but it seems hard to beat Dennis' Kolb trailer if I do.
IMO, the Home Depot type trailers are not rigid enough for peace of mind
while trailering, at least at highway speed. Our planes are light, but
long and are quite vulnerable to wind loads on the road. My trailer is a
$400 used 17' boat trailer, with modifications. I think I could enclose
it for another few hundred bucks. (what's wrong with leaf springs?)
The trailer thread has been done a few times so you might check the
kolb-list archives. Sounds like you might need/want an enclosed trailer
to double as a field hangar.
BTW, congratulations on your new plane!
Ben Ransom
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wannabe, now gonnabe a Mk II owner! |
David
You may have this in mind , but if not you might want to think about this
I trailer my M/3 and have found out this on a long trip you should not
have the wings attached to the tail boom if at all possible the reason
is this you need to lighten the weight as much as you can so their will
not be as much harsh treatment on the tail boom, and some how it you can
get the tail wheel rod off the trailer so it will not encounter the up
,down motion, this will keep the rivets tight on the tail rod insert
where it attaches to the tail boom.What I did was I got a 100 or 150 #
compression spring the kind that goes on aul. screen doors only a lot
larger attached it to the top of my trailer then with a strap around the
t / boom up to the spring this takes the shock ( MOST OF IF )off the
tail.
make sure that the wheels are in a way that they will not move forward
or aft. good luck on the trip.
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>
>>
>>
>>To hell with the trailer. Fly it to NY. : ) Enjoy the plane, and
>good
>>luck!
>
>
>As luck would have it, none other than Dennis Souder will trailer it
>back to
>PA for me. Even from PA, no one recommends I fly it home, tho it's
>surely
>tempting! Please pray for good wx and extra considerate drivers for
>his
>mission of mercy. Then, from PA, he might even be able to find a
>pilot to
>ferry it to NY.
>
>Spent considerable time trying to finagle a cheap trailer (ask Richard
>Swiderski!). The $300 "Home Depot" type trailers are now $500, use
>leaf
>springs, and THEN it must be modified. Still not sure if I'll need to
>get
>one, but it seems hard to beat Dennis' Kolb trailer if I do.
>
>Now, for some kind of shelter for the field I've found.....
>Thanks all!
> David Bruner
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wannabe, now gonnabe a Mk II owner! |
Ben
Think you are right about the advice such a long trip I would have it
in some type of enclosed trailer even if I had to rent the longest
U-HAUL the long ones may be the way to go on your trailer if you close
it up check on 1" sq. tubing it is affordable and easy to weld $ 5.00 /
8.00 for 20' joint don't remember but you can buy the top 1" sq pices
already pre bent for 4 / 5 dollars buy using sq. tubing you can attach
the skin with less trouble, good luck if you decide to cover your trailer
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>
>On Mon, 9 Nov 1998, David Bruner wrote:
>> Spent considerable time trying to finagle a cheap trailer (ask
>Richard
>> Swiderski!). The $300 "Home Depot" type trailers are now $500, use
>leaf
>> springs, and THEN it must be modified. Still not sure if I'll need
>to get
>> one, but it seems hard to beat Dennis' Kolb trailer if I do.
>
>IMO, the Home Depot type trailers are not rigid enough for peace of
>mind
>while trailering, at least at highway speed. Our planes are light,
>but
>long and are quite vulnerable to wind loads on the road. My trailer
>is a
>$400 used 17' boat trailer, with modifications. I think I could
>enclose
>it for another few hundred bucks. (what's wrong with leaf springs?)
>The trailer thread has been done a few times so you might check the
>kolb-list archives. Sounds like you might need/want an enclosed
>trailer
>to double as a field hangar.
>
>BTW, congratulations on your new plane!
>
> Ben Ransom
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
>
>Were you thinking about the CF-105 Arrow Woody ?? Didn't think it ever
>went into production. Shame too, it was a beauty - ahead of its' time.
>There's a grand old CF-100 Canuck at Castle AFB. Also a British Avro
>Vulcan. Talk about a BIG delta winged aircraft. Big Lar.
>
Yeah thats the one. There has allways been a rumour one of the 5 got away
before being scrapped. I am building a 40% scale one now to fly around
in.Of course a lot of people know this so I hear all kinds of rumours and I
try to check them out.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dan.gerges(at)gsa.gov |
I have switched from the RV list to the Kolb list! After almost 2
years of lusting after an RV, the reality of spending gobs of money
and more than two years of construction time on an RV will not work
I am a licensed (inactive) SEL pilot living in Battle Ground, WA, and
would like to find others in the Vancouver and Portland area who are
Kolb builders. Also, are there dealers and airstrips in this part of
the world that cater to U/L's? Thanks in advance for the info.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paige.Straley(at)clariant.com |
| Subject: | Sat Pics Davis-Monthan AFB |
List-members:
Go to web-site "www.terraserver.com" . From home screen, pick "Terra Server"
link, then comes a page with a list on the left called Famous Places. Pick
'B-52 at Davis Monthan." Wow!
This is a fun site to horse around with.
Paige Straley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New guy on list |
Welcome to the real world. I am a member of the ULTRALIGHT FLYERS
ORGANIZATION (UFO) club based in Sandy River Oregon (503-668-0828).
In looking through the membership list I find the following members with
Kolbs:
Jim Anderson (503)228-2726 - Portland OR
Michael Brown (503)293-0335 - Portland OR
Ron Carroll (503)838-1195 - Independence OR
Emerson Runyon (360)834-3380 Camas WA
Don Sorensen (503)644-2651 - Beaverton OR
The club meets at 7:30 (dinner at 6:30) on the first Tuesday of each month
at:
The Chinese Village Restaurant
520 SE 82nd
Portland OR.
From: dan.gerges(at)gsa.gov <dan.gerges(at)gsa.gov>
Date: Tuesday November 10 1998 10:24 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: New guy on list
>
>
>
>
>
> I have switched from the RV list to the Kolb list! After almost 2
> years of lusting after an RV, the reality of spending gobs of money
> and more than two years of construction time on an RV will not work
>
> I am a licensed (inactive) SEL pilot living in Battle Ground, WA, and
> would like to find others in the Vancouver and Portland area who are
> Kolb builders. Also, are there dealers and airstrips in this part of
> the world that cater to U/L's? Thanks in advance for the info.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New guy on list |
>The club meets at 7:30 (dinner at 6:30) on the first Tuesday of each month
>at:
Don't forget the part about how the new guy buys the beer :-)
Rusty
RV-8 (fuel tanks- Aaaaargh)
SlingShot (Sold)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New guy on list |
>
>Welcome to the real world. I am a member of the ULTRALIGHT FLYERS
>ORGANIZATION (UFO) club based in Sandy River Oregon (503-668-0828).
>The club meets at 7:30 (dinner at 6:30) on the first Tuesday of each month
>at:
>
>The Chinese Village Restaurant
>520 SE 82nd
>Portland OR.
Hey Gang:
Glad to hear about the meeting. I love Chinese food. Where is the nearest
airport?
john h (watching the raindrops fall in Central Alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyboy1(at)nbnet.nb.ca |
Hi guys,first time i write.My freind just got a new harley
engine,i weight it and it's 130lbs with coils,carb,oil pump andair
breather.Does anyone know if i can get a reduction drive for this engine and
is anybody flying a harley engine.I expect to be finished my mk3 by the
spring and looking for an engine.Any suggestion welcome
Thanks Pierre
flyboy1(at)nbnet.nb.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: harley engine |
Pierre
I sure that your harley engine is top of the line , but not knowing to
much about this engine , you may want to look at the rotax 582 ,
Seem's like they have come down in price in the last several month's
since 618 came out , Heck you may want to go to the 912 then you
would have something you could go somewhere in.
Rick Libersat
>
> Hi guys,first time i write.My freind just got a new harley
>engine,i weight it and it's 130lbs with coils,carb,oil pump andair
>breather.Does anyone know if i can get a reduction drive for this
>engine and
>is anybody flying a harley engine.I expect to be finished my mk3 by
>the
>spring and looking for an engine.Any suggestion welcome
>Thanks Pierre
>flyboy1(at)nbnet.nb.ca
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net> |
| Subject: | Movie of Firestar taking off |
I made a short movie of my Original Firestar with Rotax 377 taking off.
It's probably not very exciting for those of us with Kolbs. But those that
are thinking about getting a Kolb may find it pretty cool. It's 1.5mb
zipped. You can download it here.
ftp://members.aol.com/olefiresta/takeoff1.zip If you chose to download it
in the future, there is a link to it from my Firestar page
http://members.aol.com/olefiresta
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 377
Schenectady, NY USA
http://members.aol.com/olefiresta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wannabe, now gonnabe a Mk II owner! |
Hi Ben: Used boat trailers are very good for our purpose, but for some
reason the manufacturers seem to think people build " under 18' " boats out
of cast iron, or ballasted with solid lead. Every small trailer I've ever
seen or used has had massive springs that would carry a tugboat. Hit a
bump and it will try to launch that light load - straight up. I had good
results with removing back up springs and in one case finding a lighter
main leaf. If a 200 # man jumps up and down on one side of the trailer, it
should show some pretty good deflection, or it'll be hard on the cargo -
boat or plane - assuming a 500 # load. Very few small trailers will do
this as sold. Also passing strange is that you'll almost never find a
trailer with shock absorbers. When's the last time you ever drove a car
without shocks ?? They'd have to be beneficial, especially with springs
matched to the load. At the other end of the scale are the real light
trailers that you mentioned. Spring action is probably pretty good, but
the rest of the trailer is so flimsy as to be almost useless.
Big Lar.
> From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
> To: Kolb
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Wannabe, now gonnabe a Mk II owner!
> Date: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 8:36 AM
>
. (what's wrong with leaf springs?)
, >
> Ben Ransom
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
Rut,
How many PSI do you maintain? Any problems at all w/ no tubes??
Jon
>
>
> Richard,
>
> I am using 8x6 tundra tires and running tubless.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wannabe, now gonnabe a Mk II owner! |
| From: | rayul(at)juno.com (Raymond L Lujon) |
>snip<
> Every small trailer I've ever seen or used has had massive springs that
would carry a tugboat.
> At the other end of the scale are the real light trailers that you
mentioned. Spring action is probably pretty good, but the rest of the
trailer is so flimsy as to be almost useless.
Aluma Ltd in Bancroft, IA makes a nearly 100% aluminum open trailer with
torsion axle ( no leaf spring ) that allows a 14 inch bed height with
ST175/80R 13 4 ply tires and full width aluminum tailgate. Light, strong
and maintenance free. Ph: 515-885-2398
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Trailers (again) |
After 10 months, an estimated 1200 miles and one hurricane I am still
completely satisfied with my trailer. It was built specifically for my
FireFly. I shopped for months to find something I could convert or modify for
this application but everything long enough to do the job had been built to
haul heavy loads and weighed tons. My final design which was built by a local
custom trailer builder and uses rubber torsion suspension (no shocks required)
and wieighed out at ~1700 pounds. It is fully enclosed and it tows like a
dream. I have mailed the specs to several listers and will be pleased to
answer further inquirees.
Now if I could just get my @#%^&* Rotax 447 rear cylinder to always stay
below the red line......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hansen, Mark" <MHansen(at)ConusNews.com> |
will the gearbox work? use 2nd gear maybe?
> From: flyboy1(at)nbnet.nb.ca[SMTP:flyboy1(at)nbnet.nb.ca]
> Reply To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 6:02 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: harley engine
>
>
> Hi guys,first time i write.My freind just got a new harley
> engine,i weight it and it's 130lbs with coils,carb,oil pump andair
> breather.Does anyone know if i can get a reduction drive for this engine
> and
> is anybody flying a harley engine.I expect to be finished my mk3 by the
> spring and looking for an engine.Any suggestion welcome
> Thanks Pierre
> flyboy1(at)nbnet.nb.ca
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Bill, where do you fly out of in NJ? And where is Audubon? I'm in western
CT and looking for a good cross country flight. NJ could be just the trip.
If you could give me the LAT/LONG of your airport/park I'd appreciate it.
Thanks
>>> 11/09 10:22 PM >>>
Hello Todd,
Thanks for your interest in flying to NJ. However, it may be a tad far to go,
unless you have a fast Kolb, or lots of time, or both. I live in Audubon,
which is in South Jersey, just across the Delaware river from Philadelphia. I
fly from Alloway Airport, which is even further South, near Salem, NJ.
Alloway is a private turf field and the owner is UL friendly. The cordinates
are Lat 39-32.50, Lon 075-18.30. The owner, Whitey Lance, has a 'homebuilt'
Bellanca with a Ford V6 engine and boy does it sound good.
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ
Original FireStar 377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: trailer leaf springs |
On Mon, 9 Nov 1998, Larry Bourne wrote:
> Hi Ben: Used boat trailers are very good for our purpose, but for some
> reason the manufacturers seem to think people build " under 18' " boats out
> of cast iron, or ballasted with solid lead. Every small trailer I've ever
> seen or used has had massive springs that would carry a tugboat. Hit a
> bump and it will try to launch that light load - straight up. I had good
Hi Larry,
Originally I had thought about removing a leaf or two. I guess I still
should, but I've just forgotten about it. If I were frequently trailering
longer distances I'd check into doing this. It's one of those things on
a list of improvements, and it doesn't really seem as bad as I thought
it might be at first. I keep the trailer tires low ...sorta like the
plane tires. :)
-Ben
>
> > From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
> . (what's wrong with leaf springs?)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
Hello Pierre,
> is anybody flying a harley engine.I expect to be finished my mk3 by the
>Any suggestion welcome
I rather doubt that anybody is using a Harley engine with modern aircraft.
With all due respect to the Harley owners here on the list, I think that
the Harley engine would be a poor choice. First, they don't develop very
much power even running at their redline. Running at high rpm is not a
great idea as the engine would probably overheat and fail (for one reason
or another). In addition, the legendary Harley vibration, which might be
tolerable on a motorcycle, would probably shake the MK3 to pieces in short
order. :)
The modern day 80 cubic inch Harley "Evolution" engine only develops about
54 hp. The "new" 88 c.i. "Twin Cam" engine develops (I've been told) only
10-15% more. Compare that to something like my 1052 cc Kawasaki ZX-11
engine which smoothly develops 145 hp. Probably weighs less than a Harley
engine and would be less expensive to buy.
The 1930s vintage Aeronca C-2 airplanes used a two cylinder flathead
opposed engine that "basically" used cylinders from a 45 c.i. Harley
engine. That engine was not the most dependable in the world and developed
only 26 hp. There may be other motorcycle engines that could be adapted to
your MK3, but I don't think a Harley engine would be a good choice.
Regards,
Skip
1984 UltraStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Trailers (again) |
FWIT, I had the same problem which resulted in two seizures, and the cause
was a slipping fan belt. You can either adjust it or replace it.
Ron
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com <MitchMnD(at)aol.com>
>
>Now if I could just get my @#%^&* Rotax 447 rear cylinder to always stay
>below the red line......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: harley engine |
Another problem with an air-cooled motorcycle engine is cooling. Without
an engine driven fan on a pusher configured plane you're in trouble. They
would be better on a tractor design.
Ron
From: skip staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net>
Date: Wednesday November 11 1998 10:06 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: harley engine
>
>
>Hello Pierre,
>
>> is anybody flying a harley engine.I expect to be finished my mk3 by the
>>Any suggestion welcome
>
>I rather doubt that anybody is using a Harley engine with modern aircraft.
>With all due respect to the Harley owners here on the list, I think that
>the Harley engine would be a poor choice. First, they don't develop very
>much power even running at their redline. Running at high rpm is not a
>great idea as the engine would probably overheat and fail (for one reason
>or another). In addition, the legendary Harley vibration, which might be
>tolerable on a motorcycle, would probably shake the MK3 to pieces in short
>order. :)
>
>The modern day 80 cubic inch Harley "Evolution" engine only develops about
>54 hp. The "new" 88 c.i. "Twin Cam" engine develops (I've been told) only
>10-15% more. Compare that to something like my 1052 cc Kawasaki ZX-11
>engine which smoothly develops 145 hp. Probably weighs less than a Harley
>engine and would be less expensive to buy.
>
>The 1930s vintage Aeronca C-2 airplanes used a two cylinder flathead
>opposed engine that "basically" used cylinders from a 45 c.i. Harley
>engine. That engine was not the most dependable in the world and developed
>only 26 hp. There may be other motorcycle engines that could be adapted to
>your MK3, but I don't think a Harley engine would be a good choice.
>
>Regards,
>Skip
>1984 UltraStar
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
| Subject: | Aluma Trailer Info on web |
http://www.alumaltd.com/
From: rayul(at)juno.com [mailto:rayul(at)juno.com]
>snip<
Aluma Ltd in Bancroft, IA makes a nearly 100% aluminum open trailer with
torsion axle ( no leaf spring ) that allows a 14 inch bed height with
ST175/80R 13 4 ply tires and full width aluminum tailgate. Light, strong
and maintenance free. Ph: 515-885-2398
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Large Firestar Fuel Tank |
Howdy :
I have a '92 Firestar (KXP) , and I am looking for a simple way to increase
the fuel capacity of my FS 5 gallon tank. The stock Kolb tank apears to be a
polyethylene carboy, probably made by Nalge (Nalgene), and is roughly 10" x
10" x about 13" ht. I would imagine somebody out there makes a similar tank,
maybe 6" higher, which would give approximately another 2 1/2 gallons. That
would be enough to give me a more reasonable range. I would like to use the
stock Kolb fuel tank tray and tank enclosure.
Any help?
Paige Straley
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Experimenter picture |
I LIVE IN ROCKLAND MA AND FLY A FIRESTAR OUT OF CRANLAND AIRPORT IN HANSON MA
EAA CHAPTER 279 IS ALSO AT CRANLAND GET IN TOUCH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trailer leaf springs |
Ben, several years ago, I accumulated a 14' aluminum boat with 18 hp
Evinrude, all on a light but rugged trailer. Going from Port Angeles, WA
to Neah Bay soon afterwards, I was hitting rough spots on that beautiful
but VERY bumpy road. Got to watching in the rear view mirror and the motor
was really slamming up and down. Got to looking and found cracks in the
corners of the transom. That's what got me started on the " 200 #er
jumping up and down on one side." Soften up the spring action by whatever
means and watch the difference in the way your load rides. Keeping your
tires soft, as you say, will certainly help, but won't do tire longevity
much good. Still think shocks would be a major benefit, but would be a big
job. Take care of your plane - it's a dandy. Big Lar.
> From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
> To: Kolb
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: trailer leaf springs
> Date: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 10:34 PM
>
>
> On Mon, 9 Nov 1998, Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> > Hi Ben: Used boat trailers are very good for our purpose, but for
some
> > reason the manufacturers seem to think people build " under 18' " boats
out
> > of cast iron, or ballasted with solid lead. Every small trailer I've
ever
> > seen or used has had massive springs that would carry a tugboat. Hit a
> > bump and it will try to launch that light load - straight up. I had
good
>
> Hi Larry,
> Originally I had thought about removing a leaf or two. I guess I still
> should, but I've just forgotten about it. If I were frequently
trailering
> longer distances I'd check into doing this. It's one of those things on
> a list of improvements, and it doesn't really seem as bad as I thought
> it might be at first. I keep the trailer tires low ...sorta like the
> plane tires. :)
> -Ben
> >
> > > From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
> > . (what's wrong with leaf springs?)
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | 110% before we fly. |
Hey Chick, Cowboy told me about your engine problem. You better pull the jug
before you fly again. It ain't expensive until you go down in flames. There
are ways you can look and it want cost you anything but time. I've done it
more than I care to tell you. Cheap insurance. Just like your heart, it can
have a mild seizure and still run but the first sign is a hard starting
engine and different EGT readings. On the other hand, if you do go down we
are going to scavage your trailor. Think about it and do the right
thing. It's your butt and our community. FIREHAWK
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com <MitchMnD(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 11, 1998 10:50 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re:Trailers (again)
>
>After 10 months, an estimated 1200 miles and one hurricane I am still
>completely satisfied with my trailer. It was built specifically for my
>FireFly. I shopped for months to find something I could convert or modify
for
>this application but everything long enough to do the job had been built to
>haul heavy loads and weighed tons. My final design which was built by a
local
>custom trailer builder and uses rubber torsion suspension (no shocks
required)
>and wieighed out at ~1700 pounds. It is fully enclosed and it tows like a
>dream. I have mailed the specs to several listers and will be pleased to
>answer further inquirees.
>
>Now if I could just get my @#%^&* Rotax 447 rear cylinder to always stay
>below the red line......
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
5.5 PSI
Rut in Tallahassee
Rut,
How many PSI do you maintain? Any problems at all w/ no tubes??
Jon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CHRISTOPHER DAVIS" <cdavis2(at)capecod.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Experimenter picture |
RW I live in Chatham ma. and fly a firestar KXP out of chatham How far
away is that ? Nice to hear of another Kolber close to home almost ! Chris
From: RW603(at)aol.com <RW603(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 11, 1998 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Experimenter picture
>
>I LIVE IN ROCKLAND MA AND FLY A FIRESTAR OUT OF CRANLAND AIRPORT IN HANSON
MA
>EAA CHAPTER 279 IS ALSO AT CRANLAND GET IN TOUCH
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hale" <RealAccess(at)email.msn.com> |
Hello,
My name is Brian W Hale and I am a computer programmer living in Sacramento,
CA. I recently bought a Kolb Firestar I from Norm Henderson who is the
builder. I have just completed my USUA training and have a rating from
them.
My training was in a Rans S-12. People told me that a taildragger is
different for take offs and landings. So I have been trying hops first on
the local runway. This has got me into a little trouble. I bent my left
landing gear and scraped my wing.
I was hoping that someone could describe for me the proper way to patch the
fabric.
Also, I have 4.80/4.00 x 8 square tires that came with it. I was told that
balloon tires would be better. Does anyone have a tire setup that they
recommend? I have the stock 5" Azusa brakes installed. I would appreciate
it if you could give me specifics such as Catalog No. and sources.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Swihart" <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
Welcome to the list. I grew up in Rocklin. I and a friend are working on a
TwinStar.
-Mark Swihart-
ICQ#21813802
EAA/ASC/USUA
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Hale
> Sent: Thursday, November 12, 1998 9:11 AM
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Introduction
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> My name is Brian W Hale and I am a computer programmer living in
> Sacramento,
> CA. I recently bought a Kolb Firestar I from Norm Henderson who is the
> builder. I have just completed my USUA training and have a rating from
> them.
>
> My training was in a Rans S-12. People told me that a taildragger is
> different for take offs and landings. So I have been trying hops first on
> the local runway. This has got me into a little trouble. I bent my left
> landing gear and scraped my wing.
>
> I was hoping that someone could describe for me the proper way to
> patch the
> fabric.
>
> Also, I have 4.80/4.00 x 8 square tires that came with it. I was
> told that
> balloon tires would be better. Does anyone have a tire setup that they
> recommend? I have the stock 5" Azusa brakes installed. I would
> appreciate
> it if you could give me specifics such as Catalog No. and sources.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bentley <Scott.Bentley(at)Bentley.COM> |
| Subject: | Repairing fabric... |
...
I was hoping that someone could describe for me the proper way to patch the
fabric.
....
See http://www.polyfiber.com/as/stits/ for good manuals.
Also http://home.epix.net/~johny/ shows up when you look for "Polytone" and
"stits" on Altavista...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Introduction |
Brian,
Call the Kolb factory @ (610) 948.6294 for parts.
I would talk to the builder first and see if he can help you do the repair.
But if that isn't possible .........
I highly recommend that you get the poly-fiber manual to get the best
advice on this subject.
From: Brian Hale <RealAccess(at)email.msn.com>
Date: Thursday, November 12, 1998 11:12 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Introduction
>
>Hello,
>
>My name is Brian W Hale and I am a computer programmer living in
Sacramento,
>CA. I recently bought a Kolb Firestar I from Norm Henderson who is the
>builder. I have just completed my USUA training and have a rating from
>them.
>
>My training was in a Rans S-12. People told me that a taildragger is
>different for take offs and landings. So I have been trying hops first on
>the local runway. This has got me into a little trouble. I bent my left
>landing gear and scraped my wing.
>
>I was hoping that someone could describe for me the proper way to patch the
>fabric.
>
>Also, I have 4.80/4.00 x 8 square tires that came with it. I was told that
>balloon tires would be better. Does anyone have a tire setup that they
>recommend? I have the stock 5" Azusa brakes installed. I would appreciate
>it if you could give me specifics such as Catalog No. and sources.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Introduction |
On Thu, 12 Nov 1998, Brian Hale wrote:
>
> My name is Brian W Hale and I am a computer programmer living in Sacramento,
Hello Brian,
My name is Ben Ransom and I am a computer programmer living in Davis,
15 miles West of you. :)
Ask the original builder for the Stits manual.
> Also, I have 4.80/4.00 x 8 square tires that came with it. I was told that
> balloon tires would be better. Does anyone have a tire setup that they
> recommend? I have the stock 5" Azusa brakes installed. I would appreciate
> it if you could give me specifics such as Catalog No. and sources.
No. Balloon tires will make life a little tougher. Their increased surface
area means more traction on pavement, and therefore a significantly greater
tendency to groundloop in a crosswind. Use of normal size tires allows
the minor chirp/skid if you're going a little sideways. Also, the balloon
tires will cause a slightly increased tendency for bounce on landing.
Once your plane is repaired, I would suggest doing a LOT of taxiing,
working up to just shy of flying speed. This is not crow-hopping.
I'm guessing that you got into trouble from a slight X-wind getting
underneath one wing. At a high incidence AOA such as taxiing or Vmin,
this can push you over to groundloop. This paragraph is not meant to
be presumptious, rather, just trying to be helpful for what might have
caused the problem in the first place.
I look forward to meeting another local Kolb flyer ...there aren't that
many in our neck of the woods!
-Ben Ransom
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
I am attempting to straighten out a 30 Degr gradual bend in on of my
gearlegs (used as a float attachment member and additionally cross
supported) this weekend and wondered if you used any and how much heat at
your straightening trials. Way back as an apprentice aircraft mechanic in
the Royal Dutch Airforce I was instructed to heat the metal up to the point
were wood rubbed on the heated part would leave a black smear prior to
bending or straightening aluminum parts.
Frank Reynen MKIII@485 hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
I have had about four (4) landing legs straightened now, and they are as
good as ever. One was bent about 30 degrees, so it will abviously not
be reused even if it was re-straightenend.
You will be surprised by the amount of excess bend you must re-apply to
these landing legs to straighten them.
Good luck
Richard Bluhm of Boron Ca.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trailer leaf springs |
NOTE: The rubber in the tortional axles is designed to have a dampening effect,
thus acting as built in shock absorbers, its one of their selling points & one
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> Ben, several years ago, I accumulated a 14' aluminum boat with 18 hp
> Evinrude, all on a light but rugged trailer. Going from Port Angeles, WA
> to Neah Bay soon afterwards, I was hitting rough spots on that beautiful
> but VERY bumpy road. Got to watching in the rear view mirror and the motor
> was really slamming up and down. Got to looking and found cracks in the
> corners of the transom. That's what got me started on the " 200 #er
> jumping up and down on one side." Soften up the spring action by whatever
> means and watch the difference in the way your load rides. Keeping your
> tires soft, as you say, will certainly help, but won't do tire longevity
> much good. Still think shocks would be a major benefit, but would be a big
> job. Take care of your plane - it's a dandy. Big Lar.
>
>
> > From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
> > To: Kolb
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: trailer leaf springs
> > Date: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 10:34 PM
> >
> >
> > On Mon, 9 Nov 1998, Larry Bourne wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Ben: Used boat trailers are very good for our purpose, but for
> some
> > > reason the manufacturers seem to think people build " under 18' " boats
> out
> > > of cast iron, or ballasted with solid lead. Every small trailer I've
> ever
> > > seen or used has had massive springs that would carry a tugboat. Hit a
> > > bump and it will try to launch that light load - straight up. I had
> good
> >
> > Hi Larry,
> > Originally I had thought about removing a leaf or two. I guess I still
> > should, but I've just forgotten about it. If I were frequently
> trailering
> > longer distances I'd check into doing this. It's one of those things on
> > a list of improvements, and it doesn't really seem as bad as I thought
> > it might be at first. I keep the trailer tires low ...sorta like the
> > plane tires. :)
> > -Ben
> > >
> > > > From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu>
> > > . (what's wrong with leaf springs?)
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
Hey Frank!!! Do you really wish to use a landing gear leg that was once
bent 30 deg???
Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com wrote:
>
> I am attempting to straighten out a 30 Degr gradual bend in on of my
> gearlegs (used as a float attachment member and additionally cross
> supported) this weekend and wondered if you used any and how much heat
> at
> your straightening trials. Way back as an apprentice aircraft mechanic
> in
> the Royal Dutch Airforce I was instructed to heat the metal up to the
> point
> were wood rubbed on the heated part would leave a black smear prior
> to
> bending or straightening aluminum parts.
>
> Frank Reynen MKIII@485 hrs
> http://www.webcom.com/reynen
>
>
> I have had about four (4) landing legs straightened now, and they are
> as
> good as ever. One was bent about 30 degrees, so it will abviously not
>
> be reused even if it was re-straightenend.
>
> You will be surprised by the amount of excess bend you must re-apply
> to
> these landing legs to straighten them.
> Good luck
> Richard Bluhm of Boron Ca.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyByScott(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Introduction |
Hi my name is Scott and i am 15 years old...My dad and i are looking for a
used Mark III.. If anybody knows of anyone trying to sell a Mark III Please
Email me.
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! & straigtening their legs |
Frank, I, too have used the same shade-tree trick of rubbing a pc of
soft wood (like pattern pine) on a pc of soft alum. I had just finished
beating over a sand bag to form a compound curve. It was to harden the
pc because it was so soft before the stretching and pounding. Maybe I
was wrong, but sure worked in the past. Maybe it works in reverse on
hard stuff. So far my FireFly doesn't have either knock-or bow legs.
Grey Baron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
| Subject: | wind and then some... |
An obvious word to the wise:
Dont take chances.... I did and LOST!
If you heard on the news about major wind in the midwest earlier this week,
it came to my neck of the woods whilst I was away in Connecticut. (Am still
there).
I heard about the wind (Tuesday night) and called my neighbor to please tie
my plane down ( I leave it in an open ended hangar building) Well he told
me when he came home this night that it wasnt there!!! Told me to call back
in 15 mins and he would investigate and let me know. Longest 15 minutes I
waited. Called back to find that it left the hangar and was found 50 feet
away, upside down, and damaged. Described the long 'tube' as kinked and
engine somewhere under the earth.
Oh well, flying season was about over, right??? Ill get to visit the
patient personally when I return Friday night.
Dont take chances....
Jon
Near Greenbay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels..... |
On Thu, 12 Nov 1998, Jon Croke wrote:
> Ben,
>
> What do you think about taking the tubes out of your tires and running 6
> lbs??
>
> Is Rut living dangerously this way??? He seems to have no problems with
> tubes moving (mine do too) because he doesnt use them!!!
>
> What do you think??
I use Azusa split rim (non-sealed) wheels. Taking tubes out and I'd
be running at 0 psi, which in fact is maybe workable, but a little soft
are cost reasonable, this could be a good improvement. It would save
weight too.
-Ben Ransom
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyByScott(at)aol.com |
Hi My name is Scott...Im 15 years old and in Orange County, California. My
dad and i are looking for a used Kolb Mark III. If anyone knows where i can
fine one, please email me.
Thanks
Scott
California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wind and then some... |
Jon that's terrible news. What a homecoming to look forward to. Good
luck..... Big Lar.
> From: Jon Croke <joncroke(at)itol.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: wind and then some...
> Date: Thursday, November 12, 1998 5:14 PM
>
>
> An obvious word to the wise:
>
> Dont take chances.... I did and LOST!
>
> If you heard on the news about major wind in the midwest earlier this
week,
> it came to my neck of the woods whilst I was away in Connecticut. (Am
still
> there).
>
> I heard about the wind (Tuesday night) and called my neighbor to please
tie
> my plane down ( I leave it in an open ended hangar building) Well he
told
> me when he came home this night that it wasnt there!!! Told me to call
back
> in 15 mins and he would investigate and let me know. Longest 15 minutes
I
> waited. Called back to find that it left the hangar and was found 50
feet
> away, upside down, and damaged. Described the long 'tube' as kinked and
> engine somewhere under the earth.
>
> Oh well, flying season was about over, right??? Ill get to visit the
> patient personally when I return Friday night.
>
> Dont take chances....
>
> Jon
> Near Greenbay
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels..... |
I mademy Hegar rims tubeless (sealed all mating surfaces with RTV), wore the tires
out & never had a problem. Ran low pressure (Could push my palm into tire)
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> On Thu, 12 Nov 1998, Jon Croke wrote:
> > Ben,
> >
> > What do you think about taking the tubes out of your tires and running 6
> > lbs??
> >
> > Is Rut living dangerously this way??? He seems to have no problems with
> > tubes moving (mine do too) because he doesnt use them!!!
> >
> > What do you think??
>
> I use Azusa split rim (non-sealed) wheels. Taking tubes out and I'd
> be running at 0 psi, which in fact is maybe workable, but a little soft
> are cost reasonable, this could be a good improvement. It would save
> weight too.
>
> -Ben Ransom
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
In a message dated 11/12/98 3:47:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com writes:
> am attempting to straighten out a 30 Degr gradual bend in on of my
> gearlegs (used as a float attachment member and additionally cross
> supported) this weekend and wondered if you used any and how much heat at
> your straightening trials. Way back as an apprentice aircraft mechanic in
> the Royal Dutch Airforce I was instructed to heat the metal up to the point
> were wood rubbed on the heated part would leave a black smear prior to
> bending or straightening aluminum parts.
>
I use soap scaped along the part before heating. The soap streak will start to
discolor, allowing a good indication of how uniform the heating is. When it
turns dark brown, or almost black, the aluminum will bend almost like a wet
noodle (well almost), because it is heated into the plastic range.
A curious thing though, after the aluminum cools, it is still much softer than
when you started, and can be worked easier. Wait a couple of weeks and the
aluminum will assume the old hardness all by itself.
Anybody remember the old "Icebox Rivets"? You can still get them as surplus,
but they seem useless, being hard as a rock. Even cracking open, rather than
flatten properly. Well, they needed to be annealed (heated) then dumped in
cold water, to be soft as butter (well almost). And, to keep them from self
hardening too fast, people put them in a cold icebox, hence the name.
Hope this helps, Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
Rut
It appears that the tube bead seals satisfactorily. Have you experienced
any leakage when taxiing over grass clumps etc as found in a pasture? Or
did you help the bead seal?
Ron
>
>
>5.5 PSI
>Rut in Tallahassee
>
>
>Rut,
>
>How many PSI do you maintain? Any problems at all w/ no tubes??
>
>Jon
>>
>
>
>
>
>~~******************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Introduction |
Hey Scott
If you and your dad aren't in too big of a hurry I have a friend of mine
that has a M/3 that has never been off the ground I think that in the
last part of the building stages he sort of lost the lust to fly I have
been trying to get him motavatied to get up in the air but yet to have
any luck hang on Try this look for (
www.web-search.com/classif.html )
this should be classified ads for ultralight aircraft page.
Rick Libersat
>
>Hi my name is Scott and i am 15 years old...My dad and i are looking
>for a
>used Mark III.. If anybody knows of anyone trying to sell a Mark III
>Please
>Email me.
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: wind and then some... |
Jon
Sorry to hear about the lost Hope that all will work out ok wish that I
could help
good luck
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>An obvious word to the wise:
>
>Dont take chances.... I did and LOST!
>
>If you heard on the news about major wind in the midwest earlier this
>week,
>it came to my neck of the woods whilst I was away in Connecticut. (Am
>still
>there).
>
>I heard about the wind (Tuesday night) and called my neighbor to
>please tie
>my plane down ( I leave it in an open ended hangar building) Well he
>told
>me when he came home this night that it wasnt there!!! Told me to call
>back
>in 15 mins and he would investigate and let me know. Longest 15
>minutes I
>waited. Called back to find that it left the hangar and was found 50
>feet
>away, upside down, and damaged. Described the long 'tube' as kinked
>and
>engine somewhere under the earth.
>
>Oh well, flying season was about over, right??? Ill get to visit the
>patient personally when I return Friday night.
>
>Dont take chances....
>
>Jon
>Near Greenbay
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
You guys are nuts to heat the gear leg and then try to straighten it out.
I've bent mind more than 30* and straighten them out by using a long pipe
after wedging them in an old lift crane frame. You can use your imagination
to come up with a place strong enough to hold the big end of the gear leg.
The pipe I used was a 2 1/2'' X about 10' piece of conduit. Believe it or
not it just happened to be laying on the ground near the lift crane. I also
left some bend in the gear leg and turned them over so to take the sag out
of them while sitting in the cockpit with full fuel and all the junk I take
with me on cross countries. Rut is one of my wingmen and he will back me up.
It will work and it only take a few minutes. Just remember to draw a pattern
of the gear leg before you start on a piece of paper or cardboard so you
will know how much you are moving the leg. I left about 5* in mine. I really
like the way it handles on the ground now especially after I installed the
larger tundra tires, with tubes I might add. The leg will retain all its
strength if its turned over but be weaker if you put it in the way it came
out. After it is bent again you'll have to go for new ones. FIREHAWK
From: HGRAFF(at)aol.com <HGRAFF(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, November 13, 1998 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Squirrels in the Gear!
>
>In a message dated 11/12/98 3:47:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com writes:
>
>> am attempting to straighten out a 30 Degr gradual bend in on of my
>> gearlegs (used as a float attachment member and additionally cross
>> supported) this weekend and wondered if you used any and how much heat
at
>> your straightening trials. Way back as an apprentice aircraft mechanic
in
>> the Royal Dutch Airforce I was instructed to heat the metal up to the
point
>> were wood rubbed on the heated part would leave a black smear prior to
>> bending or straightening aluminum parts.
>>
>I use soap scaped along the part before heating. The soap streak will start
to
>discolor, allowing a good indication of how uniform the heating is. When it
>turns dark brown, or almost black, the aluminum will bend almost like a wet
>noodle (well almost), because it is heated into the plastic range.
>
>A curious thing though, after the aluminum cools, it is still much softer
than
>when you started, and can be worked easier. Wait a couple of weeks and the
>aluminum will assume the old hardness all by itself.
>
>Anybody remember the old "Icebox Rivets"? You can still get them as
surplus,
>but they seem useless, being hard as a rock. Even cracking open, rather
than
>flatten properly. Well, they needed to be annealed (heated) then dumped in
>cold water, to be soft as butter (well almost). And, to keep them from self
>hardening too fast, people put them in a cold icebox, hence the name.
>
>Hope this helps, Herb
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Appleton <randy(at)euclid.acs.NMU.EDU> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to kolb |
I've been on the kolb mailing list a while, and yet no one writes. Is
anyone out there?
-Randy
========================================================================
|| Vote for change! Vote against the incumbent! !!
================= mailto:randy(at)euclid.nmu.edu ==========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ - Super Weasel List Pruning... |
[ Please read this complete message as it contains important information
regarding the operation of the email Lists and the current subscription
process. Thanks, Matt ]
Dear Listers,
I've been hard at work for the last two weeks on a number of new applications
I refer to as "The Weasel". The Weasel's purpose is to prune the Lists of
bogus email addresses. There are two ways in which I plan to implement the
Weasel on the Lists - the Daily Weasel, and the Monthly Weasel.
- The Daily Weasel -
The Daily Weasel will be run once a day on the email box in which all of the
bounced email is automatically sent to. This file can become quite large
in only a short 24 hour period depending on how many bad email addresses
there are on the Lists at any given time. For example, today Nov 13, there
was over 5Mb of bounced email! The Daily Weasel parses all of the bounced
email error messages in the bounce email box and generates a Majordomo
'unsubscribe' request for each bogus address that has caused 10 or more
bounces. These unsubscribe requests are then processed the next time I
do List subscription approvals - usually once or twice a day.
Any addresses that are removed by the Daily Weasel will also be added to
the Unsubscribe Web Page. This web page allows List members to check to see
if they have been unsubscribed from the List if they suddenly stop receiving
List messages. Address entries are listed on the page with the most recent
at the top along with a date and time stamp indicating when it was removed,
error message was. Hyperlinks are provided on this page that allow an
unsubscribed member to resubscribe to the List of their choice when they
are sure that their email problem has been resolved.
The URL for this Unsubscribed Web Page is:
http://www.matronics.com/unsubscribed/bouncing.cgi
Please make a note of this site for future reference. A link to it is also
available from the respective List Web Site as well.
- The Monthly Weasel -
While the Daily Weasel will no doubt go a long way to managing the excessive
amount of bounced mail each day, there are still a few addresses that return
bounce messages that do not include information sufficient to locate the
address on one of the Lists. An example of this would be where someone
has subscribed email address 'A' to the List, but then sets up an email
forward to system 'B'. At some point, the user's email address at 'B'
is removed, but the forward on system 'A' is not removed. When the List
sends a message to 'A', the message is still automatically forwarded to
system 'B'. Since the address at system 'B' no longer exists, system 'B'
sends an error message back to the List server to report the problem but does
*not* include the original email address of system 'A' in the message. In
this scenario, there is no way to ever trace the bogus address!
Enter the Monthly Super Weasel! Roughly once a month, I will be running
the Super Weasel on all of the addresses in the Lists to "weasel out" all
of these hard-to-find bogus email addresses. The Super Weasel sends an
email message with the headers specially configured to insure that any
bounces will come back to a specific email account setup to receive them.
Also encoded into the Weasel Message is a unique "Weasel Serial Number"
that identifies who the message was actually sent to even if the remote
mailer obscures this information.
The special email account is monitored by the Weasel's partner application,
the "Post Weasel Processor (PWP)". When the PWP receives a bounce email
back from the Super Weasel's email probe, it tries to find special Weasel
Serial Number in the message, looks up the matching List email address, and
automatically unsubscribes the address from any Lists it may happen to be
on. An entry is also made in the "Unsubscribe Web Page" as described above.
It is important to note that members should *never* respond directly to
the Super Weasel's probes as it is highly likely that they're response will
automatically unsubscribed from the List. The PWP will try to unsubscribe
the incoming email address even if there isn't necessarily a Weasel Serial
Number in the message.
I've finished up all of the Weasel Applications tonight and have put them
online. I've purged any of the old entries from the previous Unsubscribe
Web Page since the format of the entries have changed. I have also ran
the Daily Weasel on the previous 4 days of bounced email and it removed
a number of addresses that are now listed on the web page. I also ran
the Monthly Super Weasel a couple of days ago and these entries are also
listed on the web page. Please have a look at the Unsubscribe Web Page
and perhaps bookmark it for future reference. Again, the URL is:
http://www.matronics.com/unsubscribed/bouncing.cgi
- Your Contribution Support at Work -
My ability to implement these and other new List maintenance tools is
directly related to the increased system performance afforded by the most
recent upgrades. The Weasel applications are CPU and network intensive and
with the new Email system, they complete in a matter of minutes rather than
hours. The new Email system is effectively 150 times faster than the previous
system and it shows!
I want to sincerely thank everyone that has made a generous contribution so
far to support the List and most recent upgrade! If you haven't made your
Contribution yet, won't you please do so today? Your generosity truly make
this List possible. Thank you.
You make make your Contribution using a Credit Card and the SSL Secure
web site at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
or with a personal check to:
Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550
Thanks again for all of your support!!
Matt Dralle
RV, Kolb, and Zenith List Administrator
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to kolb |
Randy,
The list is slower right now than it has been in over a year. Some of
it is probably the time of the year. Not much flying going on and maybe
not much building either. So get the ball rolling by telling us about
youself, and ask a question or two. Are you a Kolb wanabe, or are you a
builder or flyer? What would you like to get out of the list? Where are
you located?
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J (page 17 of November Experimenter)
SE Wisconsin
>
>Randy Appleton wrote:
>
>
> I've been on the kolb mailing list a while, and yet no one writes. Is
> anyone out there?
>
> -Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tree Rats In the Gear |
Hey, all you hard-landers (me included-blush!)
I called Kolb, and it is good to know that a gear leg is only $34. Shipping 2
to straighten gear legs it is good to know that being prudent is not all that
expensive. Just think about replacing gear on a GA craft ! To Kolb Co: thank
you for a nice craft and reasonable prices!
Paige Straley
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine vibration |
Hi Guys,
I've got just a little over 300 hours on my Original FireStar with a 377
Rotax. It has been performing really good until now. During the past two
flights I noticed a strange vibration. It still seems to develop full power
on climb out, but after reaching altitude, when I throttle back, it vibrates
thru the airframe and just doesn't sound right. Much louder than usual. It
almost sounds like it is straining itself to continue turning the prop. I've
looked at the engine mounts and muffler, they appear to be secure. I checked
the prop tracking and balance, both are right on. The sparkplugs show good
color and the CHT and EGT indicate normal as previously. The gear box oil
level is OK at the lower screw. I even dumped out the fuel and tried a new
batch, to no avail (my buddy is using the same mix and his runs OK). Also
tried different jetting, but it did nothing to affect the problem.
I can't think of anything else to check externally, so I guess I'm going to
start pulling the engine apart. I'm thinking crankshaft or gearbox bearings.
Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this kind of noise and
vibration, so I might know what to look for.
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ
Original FireStar 377 (Grounded)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Ruebeling <grube(at)dmi.net> |
Gentlemen,
About a month ago I asked for advice on owning a Kolb over a GA a/c and
got some wonderful advice ( seeking knowledge ) and appreciate all of
your responses. Fact is I liked what I heard so much that I have decided
to look at a Kolb.
We live in N. Idaho and are planning to drive to Plant City Fla. for
Thanksgiving. I contacted Dennis and was welcomed to stop by the factory
in PA but it's not exactly on my way to Fla. and it aint exactly the
right season up north here to go dilly-dallyin around all over the
place. Does any one out there live in central Fl who would be interested
in showing me their FS or preferably Mk III. We plan to leave Sun morn.
(I subtried to the list 3 days ago but just now got on) and will be in
Fl for a couple weeks. Thanks Guys, Rube
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine vibration |
Have you checked the Motor mounts and Muffler mounts?
Also aileron torque tube for play.
just wild ass guesses
Geoff Thistlethwaite
From: WVarnes(at)aol.com <WVarnes(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, November 14, 1998 7:26 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Engine vibration
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>I've got just a little over 300 hours on my Original FireStar with a 377
>Rotax. It has been performing really good until now. During the past two
>flights I noticed a strange vibration. It still seems to develop full
power
>on climb out, but after reaching altitude, when I throttle back, it
vibrates
>thru the airframe and just doesn't sound right. Much louder than usual.
It
>almost sounds like it is straining itself to continue turning the prop.
I've
>looked at the engine mounts and muffler, they appear to be secure. I
checked
>the prop tracking and balance, both are right on. The sparkplugs show good
>color and the CHT and EGT indicate normal as previously. The gear box oil
>level is OK at the lower screw. I even dumped out the fuel and tried a new
>batch, to no avail (my buddy is using the same mix and his runs OK). Also
>tried different jetting, but it did nothing to affect the problem.
>
>I can't think of anything else to check externally, so I guess I'm going to
>start pulling the engine apart. I'm thinking crankshaft or gearbox
bearings.
>Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this kind of noise and
>vibration, so I might know what to look for.
>
>Bill Varnes
>Audubon NJ
>Original FireStar 377 (Grounded)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
>Hi Ralph; Thanks for the onfo on the skis. Sorry I didn't get back
>to you sooner but my email has been all messed up. I finally changed
servers
>to AOL. The skis are ready to put on the plane. I had to make my
mounting
>hardware a little taller to clear my homemade brakes but I think it will
work ok.
>I have one question, how heavy of a bungee cord did you use on the front
of
>the skis. All the ones I have found are kind of light, Any ideas?
>Kent
Hi Kent,
It's that time of year and if you don't mind I want to post this to the
group so others may benefit from this too.
The bungee on the front of each ski must be strong enough to overcome the
heavy wet snow that would accumulate on the front of the ski during
takeoff. I even added a couple of knots in the bungee to make it strong
enough. If the ski is below the level angle for flight, it will add a lot
of drag and could cause a noseover upon landing when it digs into the
snow. I witnessed a FireStar go on its back once when the pilots ski went
below level upon landing. The sad part that story is that I had tried to
warn him before he took off, but he chose to go anyway. The opposite is
also true, if the ski is tilted too far upwards the drag could keep it
from climbing under full power. I know because it happened when I was
experimenting and I made a go-around under full power, then landing at
75% power. The skis do not tilt down much, about 5 deg, because of the
front limit cable/cord. This saved me once when I forget to attach the
bungees. The upward tilt is about 5 deg from level flight and about 25
deg from sitting on the ground. Hope this helps.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine vibration |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com (Ralph H Burlingame) |
Bill,
If you have over 300 hours in that plane, you certainly know what is
extreme vibration and what is not. Before pulling the engine apart first
try replacing the fuel pump, filter, plugs, and primer bulb (if it isn't
bypassed). I had a pump that was leaking out the weep hole and caused the
failure symptom that you have described. Turned out to be a cracked
diaphragm in the pump. Plugs can look good on the outside, but may have
an internal short. How about the condition of the points and is the
engine timing ok? Is the air filter clean? If you replace these "cheap
things" first, you have at least eliminated them. As a standard
procedure, clean out the cylinders with the spray-type seafoam before
running up the engine again. It's possible that something serious like
the crankshaft bearings or the gearbox could be going, so use some
caution.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar was 377, now 447
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>I've got just a little over 300 hours on my Original FireStar with a
>377 Rotax. It has been performing really good until now. During the
past
>two flights I noticed a strange vibration. It still seems to develop
full
>power on climb out, but after reaching altitude, when I throttle back,
it
>vibrates thru the airframe and just doesn't sound right. Much louder
than
>usual. It almost sounds like it is straining itself to continue turning
the
>prop. I've looked at the engine mounts and muffler, they appear to be
secure. I
>checked the prop tracking and balance, both are right on. The
sparkplugs >show good color and the CHT and EGT indicate normal as
previously. The >gear box oil level is OK at the lower screw. I even
dumped out the fuel and >tried a new batch, to no avail (my buddy is
using the same mix and his runs >OK). Also tried different jetting, but
it did nothing to affect the problem.
>I can't think of anything else to check externally, so I guess I'm
>going to start pulling the engine apart. I'm thinking crankshaft or
gearbox
>bearings. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this kind of
noise and
>vibration, so I might know what to look for.
>
>Bill Varnes
>Audubon NJ
>Original FireStar 377 (Grounded)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine vibration |
Hey Guy, My plane had some funny noises one time and it like to have drove
me crazy until I realized I had lost one of my ear plugs. On the other hand
I hit a big bug on climb out and picked up a real noticable vibration. I
didn,t know this (the bug that is) until I had landed and as I was refueling
I saw the big splat on the back of the prop. I thought," naw it can't be
that simple". I cleaned the prop real good and low and behold there was no
vibration. I learned from that experience to always clean the prop before
flight. Most likely if it is a low frequency vibration it is in the prop
somewhere and it is not always obvious. If it is a higher vibe it may be a
bearing but you probably would not be here to tell about it. By the way,
what type prop do you use anyway? Oh yes, the prop will be the first thing
to give you a funny noise or sound. Put a small piece of tape on the tip it
with the leading edge of the tape peeled up 1/4 " and run the engine. It
want hurt the prop but it will give you some indication of how different it
can sound. I hope this will help, but if it doesn't you'll probably get a
hundred more ways to solve the problem. I can only talk from my experience.
Safe flying.FIREHAWK.
From: WVarnes(at)aol.com <WVarnes(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, November 14, 1998 7:26 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Engine vibration
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>I've got just a little over 300 hours on my Original FireStar with a 377
>Rotax. It has been performing really good until now. During the past two
>flights I noticed a strange vibration. It still seems to develop full
power
>on climb out, but after reaching altitude, when I throttle back, it
vibrates
>thru the airframe and just doesn't sound right. Much louder than usual.
It
>almost sounds like it is straining itself to continue turning the prop.
I've
>looked at the engine mounts and muffler, they appear to be secure. I
checked
>the prop tracking and balance, both are right on. The sparkplugs show good
>color and the CHT and EGT indicate normal as previously. The gear box oil
>level is OK at the lower screw. I even dumped out the fuel and tried a new
>batch, to no avail (my buddy is using the same mix and his runs OK). Also
>tried different jetting, but it did nothing to affect the problem.
>
>I can't think of anything else to check externally, so I guess I'm going to
>start pulling the engine apart. I'm thinking crankshaft or gearbox
bearings.
>Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this kind of noise and
>vibration, so I might know what to look for.
>
>Bill Varnes
>Audubon NJ
>Original FireStar 377 (Grounded)
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Hey ya'll, Would you like to come by Panama City and let us introduce you to
several Kolb flyers? We're on the way to Plant City and our beaches are a
lot prettier. Home of the worlds most beautiful beaches at lest thats what
the tourist development counsel tells us. Seriously, we are in the panhandle
of Florida and this time of year is really nice most of the time. We may
can get you a demo flight over the beaches. We have an 85 mile run that is
right down the beach to St. Marks for a Grouper sandwitch that will make you
want to move. It's called the forgotten coast. Look us up on a map we're
not far out of the way. Happy sky hole pok'n. FIREHAWK
From: Gary Ruebeling <grube(at)dmi.net>
Date: Saturday, November 14, 1998 8:09 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Going South
>
>Gentlemen,
> About a month ago I asked for advice on owning a Kolb over a GA a/c and
>got some wonderful advice ( seeking knowledge ) and appreciate all of
>your responses. Fact is I liked what I heard so much that I have decided
>to look at a Kolb.
> We live in N. Idaho and are planning to drive to Plant City Fla. for
>Thanksgiving. I contacted Dennis and was welcomed to stop by the factory
>in PA but it's not exactly on my way to Fla. and it aint exactly the
>right season up north here to go dilly-dallyin around all over the
>place. Does any one out there live in central Fl who would be interested
>in showing me their FS or preferably Mk III. We plan to leave Sun morn.
>(I subtried to the list 3 days ago but just now got on) and will be in
>Fl for a couple weeks. Thanks Guys, Rube
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Appleton <randy(at)euclid.acs.NMU.EDU> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to kolb |
I'm looking for a plane to buy. I don't want to build a Kolb so much as
own a Kolb. But first I want to make sure that the plane can fulfill my
requirements:
Seat two in semi-comfort
Fly low and slow over the town.
Do the occasional 300 mile trip (if slowly)
Fly out of conventional airports.
Cheap to buy (~$11,000).
Cheap to own ( less than $100/month not counting the hanger).
I've got a pilot's license, so I'm thinking a Kolb with an N-number might
work.
My question is, does a Kolb do these things, and do I have the prices
right?
-Curious
-Randy
> Randy,
> The list is slower right now than it has been in over a year. Some of
> it is probably the time of the year. Not much flying going on and maybe
> not much building either. So get the ball rolling by telling us about
> youself, and ask a question or two. Are you a Kolb wanabe, or are you a
> builder or flyer? What would you like to get out of the list? Where are
> you located?
> John Jung
> Firestar II N6163J (page 17 of November Experimenter)
> SE Wisconsin
========================================================================
|| Vote for change! Vote against the incumbent! !!
================= mailto:randy(at)euclid.nmu.edu ==========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to kolb |
Randy Appleton:
I saw your spex for a plane, and I don't think any private plane will legally
fly low and slow over the town. This is especially true of "experimental"
aircraft, which FAA specifically prohibits from flying over "densely populated
areas." Any N-numbered Kolb is an experimental according to FAA definition.
The FAA can be mean!
Paige Straley
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Vibration |
Hi Bill; I was having the same problem on my 377, I was using a two blade
wooden prop. Between 5400-5800 RPM had a vibration that didn't sound good.
Most of the time I stayed out of that power range and had no problems. Last
month I bought a three blade Powerfin prop. Boy, what a difference. I lost
all my midrange vibration and their is a lot less prop noise. Now I can set my
power where I want and it is smooth. My wood prop was balanced and checked
several times. Hope this helps. Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to kolb |
u>
>
>I'm looking for a plane to buy. I don't want to build a Kolb so much as
>own a Kolb. But first I want to make sure that the plane can fulfill my
>requirements:
>
> Seat two in semi-comfort
> Fly low and slow over the town.
> Do the occasional 300 mile trip (if slowly)
> Fly out of conventional airports.
> Cheap to buy (~$11,000).
> Cheap to own ( less than $100/month not counting the hanger).
>I've got a pilot's license, so I'm thinking a Kolb with an N-number might
>work.
>My question is, does a Kolb do these things, and do I have the prices
>right?-Curious-Randy
Flew my MKIII from Kingsport, Tennessee to Oshkosh this last summer, so
I
certainly have an opinion. It was comfortable. I have the stock fabric
sling seat.
Solo, I can fly slowfly @ 40 mph. With a passenger, it is happier at 60.
If you are over the town, stay at least 1000' agl. (but you knew that) :)
If you have a radio, and where necessary, a transponder, you can go to any
airport you want.
If you want one with a a radio and transponder, you will not find a MKIII
for $11,000 unless you get really lucky.
Cheap to own? Insurance, and gas and oil. If you use the stock wheels,
you
need to replace the cheap bearings every 75 hours. How much cheaper does it
get?
I have owned 4 ultralights, and three N-numbered airplanes over a span
of
33 years, and the MKIII is at the top of my list.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine vibration |
How about the prop. Could it be out of balance or out of adjustment if ground
adjustable?
Howard Shackleford
FS I
Lexington, SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration |
I'm also interested in a Power Fin prop, but I thought that in order for the
engine to turn a 3-blade prop you have to reduce the pitch from that on the
2-blade. If this is true you would lose some cruise and WOT speed because
the engine doesn't have enough power to turn three blades with the same
pitch as the two blade had. Since you have changed from a 2-blade to a
3-blade on your 377 do you find that you have lost some of the speed you had
for any given RPM in the cruise/WOT ranges?
Ron Carroll
Original Firestar
>
>Hi Bill; I was having the same problem on my 377, I was using a two blade
>wooden prop. Between 5400-5800 RPM had a vibration that didn't sound good.
>Most of the time I stayed out of that power range and had no problems.
Last
>month I bought a three blade Powerfin prop. Boy, what a difference. I lost
>all my midrange vibration and their is a lot less prop noise. Now I can set
my
>power where I want and it is smooth. My wood prop was balanced and checked
>several times. Hope this helps. Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Rambling about stuff |
To all,
Anyone wanting to shield their plug wires might check with their local
electrical cable supplier (in this area there is Altex Computers and
Electronics) for the braided sleeve and spiral plastic wrap material. I
paid double buying the same stuff from a mail order aircraft supply company.
While looking around I also saw many other electrical items (circuit
breakers, buss bars, terminal blocks, etc. that could be useful during
construction. Think local first.
Yesterday, I helped a friend cover his main wings and tidy up the rest of
the surfaces getting ready for rib riveting and finish taping. It reminded
me how much easier the MEK method of covering is rather than the Polytac 6"
- press the cloth in, Polytac 6" - press the cloth in... method. Lay down a
double/tripple coat of Polytac (thinned with 10% MEK to produce a smooth
non-bumpy coat) on the tubes where contact will be made. When dry lay out
the cloth stretched just enough to remove the wrinkles at the edges of the
perimeter tubes, then swipe MEK across the perimeter tubes with a sash brush
(the round kind that holds a lot of MEK). The cloth will immediately wet
out with the MEK and melt the Polytac below. A light quick swipe of the
heel of your hand to press the cloth into the melted Polytac and voila... a
perfect NO WRINKLE perimeter. Go back around the perimeter again with
another swipe of MEK and press the cloth in firmer to get an almost 100%
bond, iron out (at 225) any slop in the middle and any tiny wrinkles on the
tubes (more heat up to 300 where the cloth touches the tubes because of the
heat sink). You will have a perfect job. I do the same with the second
coat of cloth and I finish off the seam joint with Polybrush to displace any
air trapped in the weave or between the two layers of cloth. Watch out
popping those fabric rivets or you will bounce the puller and stick a popped
stem through your beautiful virgin cover. Pre-shrink your patch material on
a make shift wood frame and your patches will be firmer/flater and be easier
to cut out and Polybrush down. Ventilate well so as not to breath too
heavily the fumes of all the Polyfiber products and MEK.
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (50.5 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rambling about stuff |
Good, good stuff. Thanks. Big Lar.
> From: Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Rambling about stuff
> Date: Saturday, November 14, 1998 8:25 PM
>
>
> To all,
>
> Anyone wanting to shield their plug wires might check with their local
> electrical cable supplier (in this area there is Altex Computers and
> the surfaces getting ready for rib riveting and finish taping. It
reminded
> me how much easier the MEK method of covering is rather than the Polytac
6"
> - press the cloth in, Polytac 6" - press the cloth in... method. Lay
down a
> double/tripple coat of Polytac (thinned with 10% MEK to produce a smooth
> popping those fabric rivets or you will bounce the puller and stick a
popped
> stem through your beautiful virgin cover. Pre-shrink your patch material
on
> a make shift wood frame and your patches will be firmer/flater and be
easier
> to cut out and Polybrush down. Ventilate well so as not to breath too
> heavily the fumes of all the Polyfiber products and MEK.
>
> Later,
>
> Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
> (972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
> and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
> Kolb MKIII - N582CC (50.5 hrs)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Adendum - covering |
To all,
I re-read what I said and I want to emphasize that you should tighten up the
main wing covering some before applying the rivets. Do the top front over
the curved ribs first to lesson the tendency of dishing between the ribs.
Don't tighten up the fabric too much before riveting. Watch out for any
tendency of "S"ing of the ribs or the tendency of a rib to lean one way or
the other. I think I brought the temp up to 250 more or less. If you rivet
too soon the shrinking fabric will pull your ribs this way and that as the
fabric (tries to slip) over the ribs. Shrinking too much before stabilizing
the ribs with the rivets is inviting disaster - buckled ribs.
Later,
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling Him: Retired Pharmacist
(972)247-9821 Dallas Texas Her: Real Estate Broker - Texas
and Marble Falls Texas Both: 5th Wheel - RV - Travel
Kolb MKIII - N582CC (50.5 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to kolb |
Randy,
The Mark III will probably cost more than $11,000. The Firestar II is
more likely to be in your price range, but the passenger won't want to
go 300 miles. While a Kolb may cost more than you want to spend, the
cost to operate is cheap. For me it's $75. per month including the
hanger. If you buy an older, high hour plane, the purchase cost would be
lower, but the maintenance costs could be higher.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
>
>Randy Appleton wrote:
> I'm looking for a plane to buy. I don't want to build a Kolb so much as
> own a Kolb. But first I want to make sure that the plane can fulfill my
> requirements:
> Seat two in semi-comfort
> Fly low and slow over the town.
> Do the occasional 300 mile trip (if slowly)
> Fly out of conventional airports.
> Cheap to buy (~$11,000).
> Cheap to own ( less than $100/month not counting the hanger).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us> |
I am storing my FS in a shed attached to a barn. It doesn't have a door
on the front and the wall at the other end is questionable. In other
words this thing "ain't" closed in. Now as for weather it's fine. The
shelter is long enough that the snow and rain won't get to the plane. I
also cover the thing with plastic to keep the birds from leaving me a
note. My question is about the little field critters, squirrels and
anything else that may find refuge in the same shelter. Is there a way
of keeping them out of my bird and from the possibility of doin damage
to her over the winter? I plan to fly on occasion since we do get a few
decent days through out the winter. Once a month or so I plan to take her
out run the engine and fly if possible. Is there somethin like moth
balls that can be put around the plane to keep the critters away?
Thanks for the help
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Ruebeling <grube(at)dmi.net> |
Guys,
We are taking off for Fl this morning. Thanks for all the offers to
check out your Planes. I have unsuscribed. Later Rube
________________________________________________________________________________
My FS2 is kept in an old cow barn in the middle of farm country and has been
subject to mice damage. I have had two holes chewed in it, one in the
fuselage and one in the wing root. Before going to Oshkosh I vacuumed a nest
from the wing tip and under the seat. Nothing appears to deter them but the
mothballs do temper the smell of mouse pee. Its still there but different.
This winter I have cut two cones out of scrap and fasten them around my gear
legs similar to the cones around ship dock lines and I am fabricating a tail
stand with an upside down plastic bowl on the vertical to prevent them
climbing up that way. It may make it difficult enough for them to go
elsewhere. By the way the last time I played with my phantom a mouse came out
of the wing, down the shoulder straps over me and out, guess he did not like
the idea of flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CHRISTOPHER DAVIS" <cdavis2(at)capecod.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to kolb |
Randy do you mean nobody writes to you or just noboduy writes If the
former . perhaps you should write first , if thew later somthing must be
wrong with your email as I was offshore fo a few days and came home to 157
messages !CHRIS
From: Randy Appleton <randy(at)euclid.acs.NMU.EDU>
Date: Saturday, November 14, 1998 12:28 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Welcome to kolb
>
>
>I've been on the kolb mailing list a while, and yet no one writes. Is
>anyone out there?
>
>-Randy
>========================================================================
>|| Vote for change! Vote against the incumbent! !!
>================= mailto:randy(at)euclid.nmu.edu ==========================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adendum - covering |
>too soon the shrinking fabric will pull your ribs this way and that as the
>fabric (tries to slip) over the ribs. Shrinking too much before stabilizing
>the ribs with the rivets is inviting disaster - buckled ribs.
>
>Later,
I have covered 4 Kolbs and 2 Vectors and I would say do not rivit the
fabric untill the fabric is shrunk to its final position. I have not seen
the ribs "s" in the middle of the wing. When I have done it the fabric did
slip over the ribs.If I did see it I would help it back into position with
my fingers. I think the trick is shrink the whole surface a bit at a time
rather than a small area at a time.I will usually go over the whole surface
3 or 4 times on the initial shrink temp to balance out all the internal
tugging that may want to occur. No amount of care will prevent the
scalloping of the fabric between the ribs. This a property of physics not
building technique.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to kolb |
Perhaps the reason that he hasn't been getting any mail is the address. It
is the old (intrig.com) instead of Matronics.
Larry
> From: CHRISTOPHER DAVIS <cdavis2(at)capecod.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Welcome to kolb
> Date: Sunday, November 15, 1998 9:38 AM
>
>
> Randy do you mean nobody writes to you or just noboduy writes If the
> former . perhaps you should write first , if thew later somthing must be
> wrong with your email as I was offshore fo a few days and came home to
157
> messages !CHRIS
> From: Randy Appleton <randy(at)euclid.acs.NMU.EDU>
> To: kolb(at)intrig.com
> Date: Saturday, November 14, 1998 12:28 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Welcome to kolb
>
>
> >
> >
> >I've been on the kolb mailing list a while, and yet no one writes. Is
> >anyone out there?
> >
> >-Randy
> >========================================================================
> >|| Vote for change! Vote against the incumbent! !!
> >================= mailto:randy(at)euclid.nmu.edu ==========================
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff / Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)dfw.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adendum - covering |
Richard,
> I have covered 4 Kolbs and 2 Vectors and I would say do not rivit the
>fabric untill the fabric is shrunk to its final position.
You are about 4 planes ahead of me, but I would be afraid to bring the
temps all the way up to 350 before supporting the ribs with the rivets. No
way... Here I go being "chicken little" again.
I have not seen
>the ribs "s" in the middle of the wing.
I could look down along the ribs (esp.) the bottom ones from the rear and
they were a tiny wiggly or "S"ey... maybe not from the force of the cloth,
but I didn't want to take any chances.
When I have done it the fabric did
>slip over the ribs.If I did see it I would help it back into position with
>my fingers
Ditto here too... except the very last false one where the cloth dips down
to the bow tube was more difficult to manipulate (meaning keep up
straight). Since the cloth is crossing at an angle and the pressure is not
straight down the tendency is to bend the rib over to the side.
I think the trick is shrink the whole surface a bit at a time
>rather than a small area at a time.I will usually go over the whole surface
>3 or 4 times on the initial shrink temp to balance out all the internal
>tugging that may want to occur.
So did I. Seems like I raised it about 25 degrees at a time. By the time
I was up to 350 the wing had creaking and popped as the aluminum frame
settled in under the tremendous pressure of the stretched cloth.
No amount of care will prevent the
>scalloping of the fabric between the ribs. This a property of physics not
>building technique.
Yes, but... The Kolb manual says to "begin" your shrinking (I add here that
I did it at each heat level) on the forward upper portion where the ribs
stick up into the cloth the most and that seems (to me at least) reduce the
dishing some. I have dishing like everyone else does and I like it to some
extent. It is part of what makes a Kolb a Kolb.
Richard, did you use the MEK melt method, stick 6" at a time or some other
method? Seems like the biggest bugaboo or fear of guys putting on the
cloth is getting wrinkles that cannot be ironed out. I thought covering
was a piece of cake and perhaps the most fun of all the building process.
Later,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Duffy" <rv8(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Winter Critters |
>note. My question is about the little field critters, squirrels and
>anything else that may find refuge in the same shelter. Is there a way
>of keeping them out of my bird and from the possibility of doin damage
I've seen lots of people use rubber snakes, and fake owls in their open hangers.
Some of these are very life-like and probably scare away their share of people
as well :-) It might help.
Rusty (will be Kolbless next Saturday) Duffy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Winter Critters |
| From: | rbaker2(at)juno.com (Ray L Baker) |
Gary,
In addition to Frcole's protective barriers I would be inclined to keep a
couple of boxes of De con in/on the plane in accessible locations. If
the little varmints are able to circumvent the barriers hopefully they
will find that more appetizing than the plane. I hope there are no
squirrels involved as the only way to stop them is to shoot 'em!
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
You can make a very efficient live or killer trap for mice out of a 5 gal.
plastic bucket. Old Idaho trick. When they fall in, it's too tall for
them to jump out of - and the little buggers can really jump. Using
reverse reasoning, seems to me that you could set the plane on upside down
buckets or similar. In a barn you'd have lots of clearance, and you could
still access the plane. 'Course, people might look at you a little funny
when they see it. Big Lar.
> From: Frcole(at)aol.com
> To: Kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Critters
> Date: Sunday, November 15, 1998 9:17 AM
>
>
> My FS2 is kept in an old cow barn in the middle of farm country and has
been
> subject to mice damage. I have had two holes chewed in it,
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rambling about stuff, ch 2 |
If you're really cheap and don't want to use that dirty three letter
word BUY, you can get shielding for nothing. Takes a bit of patience and
time (mine is worth abt 10/hr). Find some castoff short lengths of
coax, 75 ohm is a bit larger than 52. Cable guys will give this away.
Carefully slice down the outer insulation, peel off, discard. Then push
the braid back, a bit at a time, working along the piece. Best if you
cut the cable a bit longer then the braid you want to salvage, When you
have it loosened up enough to slip the whole pc of braid off, you've got
your pc of braid. It'll be shorter than the wire you want to cover,also
bigger in dia.
Now thread your wire into the braid tube, start "milking" the braid to
tighten it. Done for nothing.
For bigger wires, or bundles, find some RG-8, abt the size of the end of
your pinkie. Hams may help you. But don't pay much or you defeat the
Grey Baron's "Raised in the Depression Law":Make Do With Poo. GB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration |
In a message dated 11/14/98 10:19:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<<
Original Firestar >>
Hi Ron; I ground adjusted the Powerfin to 6150. The old wooden prop was
6450. On takeoff I added about twenty feet to my takeoff roll, at cruise I
picked up about 3mph at four hundred rpm less. With old prop cruise rpm was
6000, new prop 5600. One thing I noticed was the old prop would go to 6650 on
climbout, but the new prop only picks up to 100 rpm, 6250 on climbout. Taking
everything into account, I think the three blade was a good tradeoff. Plus the
new prop is a lot tougher and has leading edge protection so I can fly in
snow. Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine vibration |
In a message dated 11/14/98 8:26:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, WVarnes(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I'm thinking crankshaft or gearbox bearings.
Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this kind of noise and
vibration, >>
You might check the torque on your prop bolts. I found that mine stretched
after a time and had to be brought back up to the propper value.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Appleton <randy(at)euclid.acs.NMU.EDU> |
Fair enough. I don't need a radio (except handheld) or a transponder (I
promise never to go near a class B airspace. Electric start would be
cool. How much am I looking at?
Also, how much do engine overhalls go for?
Finally, why is your Mk III at the top of your list? Why is it better
than a C-150 or a Piper for instance?
-Thanks Again
-Randy
Richard Pike Wrote ...
>Flew my MKIII from Kingsport, Tennessee to Oshkosh
>this last summer, so I
>certainly have an opinion. It was comfortable. I have the stock fabric
>sling seat.
> Solo, I can fly slowfly @ 40 mph. With a passenger, it is happier
>at 60. If you are over the town, stay at least 1000' agl. (but you knew
>that) :) If you have a radio, and where necessary, a transponder, you can
>go to any airport you want.
> If you want one with a a radio and transponder, you will not find
>a MKIII for $11,000 unless you get really lucky.
> Cheap to own? Insurance, and gas and oil. If you use the stock
>wheels, you need to replace the cheap bearings every 75 hours. How much
>cheaper does it get?
> I have owned 4 ultralights, and three N-numbered airplanes over a
>span of 33 years, and the MKIII is at the top of my list.
========================================================================
|| Randy Appleton, Professor of Computer Science at Northern Michigan ||
================= mailto:randy(at)euclid.nmu.edu ==========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)ulster.net> |
| Subject: | waiver for property owner |
Folks,
Searched thru the Kolb-list for info about a waiver that could be signed by
the UL pilot and given to a property owner who's good enough to allow you to
fly from their property. Maybe from some other UL source; but coulda swore
there's a standard form available for such a situation - anyone know if I'm
dreamin or where I could get one?
David Bruner
Future Mk II owner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration |
Hey Kent, If you want to cut your takeoff roll back take enough pitch out of
the new prop to give you the same RPM as your old wood prop did. I have a
three blade prop, wouldn't have anything else for the smoothness. I have an
IVO it is very quiet too. Sometimes when I land at our airfield noone even
knows I'm in the pattern unless they look up to see me circle the field.
Remember that the smoother you can make your craft the longer it will last
because all moving parts wear and dry moving parts wear 300 time faster. I
have some 545 hours on my plane and there is hardly any appreciable wear
anywhere. Prop vibration probably accounts for most of the wear on our
crafts.
Watch your EGT for change because as you unloud the engine it will tend to
lean out. As long as you stay at the original MAX RPM the temps should be
fine.
You may not believe this but I run a 582 with 145 main jets that burns 3
gallons per hour at 5200 rpm with a cruise of 68-70 MPH. Water temp is
150-160, EGT is 850-1000 and CHT is 225-250. I can't get any better than
that. Max RPM is 6250 on climbout @ 800-1000' per minute@ 65 MPH.
Remember to always clean the prop it really helps in more ways than one.
Firehawk
From: Kenmead(at)aol.com <Kenmead(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, November 15, 1998 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Vibration
>
>In a message dated 11/14/98 10:19:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>
><<
> Original Firestar >>
> Hi Ron; I ground adjusted the Powerfin to 6150. The old wooden prop
was
>6450. On takeoff I added about twenty feet to my takeoff roll, at cruise I
>picked up about 3mph at four hundred rpm less. With old prop cruise rpm
was
>6000, new prop 5600. One thing I noticed was the old prop would go to 6650
on
>climbout, but the new prop only picks up to 100 rpm, 6250 on climbout.
Taking
>everything into account, I think the three blade was a good tradeoff. Plus
the
>new prop is a lot tougher and has leading edge protection so I can fly in
>snow. Kent
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: waiver for property owner |
Try Jerryrooks(at)AOL.com Firehawk
From: David Bruner <brunerd(at)ulster.net>
Date: Sunday, November 15, 1998 7:56 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: waiver for property owner
>
>Folks,
>Searched thru the Kolb-list for info about a waiver that could be signed by
>the UL pilot and given to a property owner who's good enough to allow you
to
>fly from their property. Maybe from some other UL source; but coulda swore
>there's a standard form available for such a situation - anyone know if I'm
>dreamin or where I could get one?
>
>David Bruner
>Future Mk II owner
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adendum - covering |
>Richard, did you use the MEK melt method, stick 6" at a time or some other
>method? Seems like the biggest bugaboo or fear of guys putting on the
>cloth is getting wrinkles that cannot be ironed out. I thought covering
>was a piece of cake and perhaps the most fun of all the building process.
>
>Later,.
I agree. Covering is the fun part. I have allways done it the original way
a few inches at a time. No problem. The Mk3 I did a couple years ago (Which
still hasn't flown, Just a little kick Andy ;) we were told to place a tube
along the wing under the fabric as we glued it down. It was quite baggy when
we removed the tube but it shrunk up real nice. Now the fabric is shrunk
almost all that it can, is drum tight and is not trying to distort the wing.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <richard.wood(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration |
>
>In a message dated 11/14/98 10:19:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
>. I noticed was the old prop would go to 6650 on
>climbout, but the new prop only picks up to 100 rpm, 6250 on climbout. Taking
>everything into account, I think the three blade was a good tradeoff. .
I think you were a bit under proped before. You seem pretty good now
judging by the rpm.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration |
Hi Mike and Kolb Gang:
Saw this post and thought I would comment a little on the below statement.
>
>Remember that the smoother you can make your craft the longer it will last
>because all moving parts wear and dry moving parts wear 300 time faster. I
>have some 545 hours on my plane and there is hardly any appreciable wear
>anywhere. Prop vibration probably accounts for most of the wear on our
>crafts.
I fly a MK III with more than twice the airframe hours as Mike's Ferguson.
Got a chance to fly a little today and when I put the plane up she had
1216.1 hrs. I agree with the above in part, but since the MK III and the
Ferguson use the same identical elevator control mechanism/horizontal
stabilizer foldup system, I must make a comment reference wear of the
elevator piano hinges. I was down in Panama City, Fl, last month and Mike
graciously agreed to fly an old retired WWII Navy Submariner friend of mine.
I appreciate that Mike. While I was at Mike's airstrip I noticed advanced
wear on the Ferguson's elevator hinges and the rudder hinges. The elevator
hinges wear rapidly because they carry the load from the tail wires combined
with the movement of the elevators. The rudder hinges wear because of
basically the same thing: movement of rudder and downward pull from the
tail wheel steering springs. I have the same problem with my MK III because
both tail sections a very much the same. However, I point out that Mike's
hinges have worn more than mine. Why? Because I use more elevator and
rudder hinge than the plans call for and a lot more than what Mike has on
his Ferguson. I have more hinge to carry the thrust load.
I'm experimenting with some nylon pads, between the tail boom and the inside
edges of the horizontal stabilizers, to carry the load placed on the hinges
by the tailwires. It seems to work well, however, I need to place a small
piece of stainless sheet metal on the inside edges of the horizontal stabs
to keep from wearing thru the paint and fabric. Now these nylon blocks are
carry the load rather than the hinges.
So Mike, I think you may have a little appreciable wear. When I discovered
the wear on his plane I pointed it out to Mike so he would be aware of it.
I also shared with him my experiment with the nylon thrust blocks.
Fly safe, have fun,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Swihart <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
Sounds like you need a barn cat...
-Mark-
>
>My FS2 is kept in an old cow barn in the middle of farm country and has been
>subject to mice damage. I have had two holes chewed in it, one in the
>fuselage and one in the wing root. Before going to Oshkosh I vacuumed a nest
>from the wing tip and under the seat. Nothing appears to deter them but the
>mothballs do temper the smell of mouse pee. Its still there but different.
>This winter I have cut two cones out of scrap and fasten them around my gear
>legs similar to the cones around ship dock lines and I am fabricating a tail
>stand with an upside down plastic bowl on the vertical to prevent them
>climbing up that way. It may make it difficult enough for them to go
>elsewhere. By the way the last time I played with my phantom a mouse came
out
>of the wing, down the shoulder straps over me and out, guess he did not like
>the idea of flying.
>
>
>
>
>
Home Page
<http://www.tcsn.net/mswihart/kolb.htm>
Paso Robles Ultralight Association
<http://www.tcsn.net/mswihart/prua.htm>
Bradley, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
u>
>
>Fair enough. I don't need a radio (except handheld) or a transponder (I
>promise never to go near a class B airspace. Electric start would be
>cool. How much am I looking at?
If you can find one for $13,000, grab it.
>
>Also, how much do engine overhalls go for?
If you do it yourself, and don't have to bore it to first oversize, about
$400. If you have to replace a crank, add $800 or so to that.
>
>Finally, why is your Mk III at the top of your list? Why is it better
>than a C-150 or a Piper for instance?
The C-150 and the Piper give the prop the best view, and a bug covered
windshield all summer long. The Kolb combines the best of closed and open
cockpit flying, ultralight and "real airplane" (I hate that phrase!) flying.
Compared to the maintainence on a factory airplane, it is as simple as
an
anvil.
>-Thanks Again
>-Randy
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration |
> I have a three blade prop, wouldn't have anything else for the
smoothness. I have an
>IVO it is very quiet too.
>
>Firehawk
What diameter, and what kind of gear reduction?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>
>
>Sounds like you need a barn cat...
>
>-Mark-
>
Have you ever seen a fabric airplane after a cat jumped on it and dug in
so it wouldn't slip? If I ever see a cat in my barn, PETA won't be pleased...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>>
>>My FS2 is kept in an old cow barn in the middle of farm country and has been
>>subject to mice damage. I have had two holes chewed in it, one in the
>>fuselage and one in the wing root.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
| Subject: | More Comments from the List Fund Raiser... |
Dear Listers,
I've been receiving a lot of very nice comments from members regarding
the List and how it has helped them. I thought it would be nice to
share a few more of them with everyone.
The System Fund Raiser has been going very well and I am planning to post
a "Contributing Member List" on Wednesday or Thursday of this week.
There's still plenty of time to get your contribution in, however, and
assure that *your* name is on this week's Contributing Member List.
Please use the following SSL Secure URL to make your credit card contribution
or you may also make a donation by sending a personal check to the US Mail
address shown below.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you for all the nice comments and especially for the wonderful support!
Matt Dralle
List Admin.
"This List is even more invaluable to those of us who live where
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-Gary Sobek
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-Dennis Hart
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Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JON CROKE <joncroke.itol.com(at)admin.itol.com> |
Update on FS damage from wind last week:
When a neighbor says it looks like their was 'some' apparent damage whilst gazing
at a plane upside down and in the dark of night..... just you WAIT til you
really see what the condition is in the light of day!!!
Well, the fuse tube is severely kinked, and amazing enough the tail feathers never
touched the ground!! Nor the nose cone. So it must have been a mid air flip
that whipped the tail to kink the tube!!
One wing is trashed beyond repair. (It still LOOKS like a wing, and I am considering
a lawn ornament application with this... like burying the root end into
the ground and having the tip stick up.... Could be interesting!)
The other wing is repairable....its a strange feeling tearing off the skin of that
wing... all the work, paint, time and expense that went in to putting it on!!
The plane landed on the engine.... Not good but am ordering some spark plug caps
that broke off so I can determine if itll ever run again....
I notice you can buy tie-down kits rather inexpensively... I may get a set for
the next plane. Then Ill see if I can remember to use them!!!!!!!!!!
Jon (Now I know what I want for Xmas!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
One of the major ( out of many ) reasons I bought my Mk III kit is that for
about the same price as a good C-150, I will have a BRAND NEW aircraft with
fairly similar capabilities, and NEW avionics ( radio + transponder + mode
C ), that I can legally work on myself, uses parts that don't sell for the
insane prices of certified parts, and can fold to bring home. Not a 40
year old money burner Nor to mention the challenge, and later, the pride
in knowing that I built it myself. We're a pretty small fraternity, and it
IS a matter for pride. Wow - this is "one" of the reasons ?? Guess I do
carry on. So, while I'm carrying on, another Big reason for the Kolb over
the Cessna is because it's a pusher. VISIBILITY ! ! ! Flying in
mountainous areas I do a lot of S-turning to see whether I'm flying toward
a pinnacle or some such that I can't see through the engine of the Cessna.
Big Lar.
> From: Randy Appleton <randy(at)euclid.acs.NMU.EDU>
> To: Kolb Mailing List
> Subject: Kolb-List: Why Kolb?
> Date: Sunday, November 15, 1998 4:18 PM
>
,> Finally, why is your Mk III at the top of your list? Why is it better
> than a C-150 or a Piper for instance?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Vibration |
P.S.: If you have an "A" gearbox like my 377, a three-blade prop is too
much load depending on the diameter. Careful.
Rutledge Fuller "Cowboy"
Original Firestar 377 86 hours
From: "Ron Carroll " <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Vibration
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 19:16:02 -0800
I'm also interested in a Power Fin prop, but I thought that in order for
the
engine to turn a 3-blade prop you have to reduce the pitch from that on
the
2-blade. If this is true you would lose some cruise and WOT speed
because
the engine doesn't have enough power to turn three blades with the same
pitch as the two blade had. Since you have changed from a 2-blade to a
3-blade on your 377 do you find that you have lost some of the speed you
had
for any given RPM in the cruise/WOT ranges?
Ron Carroll
Original Firestar
>
>Hi Bill; I was having the same problem on my 377, I was using a two
blade
>wooden prop. Between 5400-5800 RPM had a vibration that didn't sound
good.
>Most of the time I stayed out of that power range and had no problems.
Last
>month I bought a three blade Powerfin prop. Boy, what a difference. I
lost
>all my midrange vibration and their is a lot less prop noise. Now I can
set
my
>power where I want and it is smooth. My wood prop was balanced and
checked
>several times. Hope this helps. Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | FireFly for sale in Quincy, Fl. |
Beautiful yellow and red aerothane painted FireFly w/447 brakes and
stock or over size wheels and tires. This one is perfect and brand new.
Owner is Tom Hertz who asked me to post this on the net. He may be
contacted at (850) 562-6764 home or work (850) 488-0279.
If you are looking for a Firefly, you won't find another nicer. I am
serious!
Rutledge Fuller
Tallahassee, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squirrels in the Gear! |
I have had no problems at all, and often high speed taxi at 30 mph on
less than smooth surface. I sometimes hit bumps that will throw me into
the air and then, BAM!! right back on the ground. No bent gear yet
either. These episodes are much harder than any landings that I have
encountered thus far......... You think that I would learn.
If you keep asking questions, you might jinks me : )
Rut Fuller
Original Firestar 377
Rebuilt at 80 hrs, now with 86 hrs.
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 11:43:15 -0600
From: Ron Hoyt <RONALD.R.HOYT@gd-is.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Squirrels in the Gear!
Rut
It appears that the tube bead seals satisfactorily. Have you
experienced
any leakage when taxiing over grass clumps etc as found in a pasture?
Or
did you help the bead seal?
Ron
>
>
>5.5 PSI
>Rut in Tallahassee
>
>
>Rut,
>
>How many PSI do you maintain? Any problems at all w/ no tubes??
>
>Jon
>>
>
>
>
>
>~~******************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Thompson <TTHOMPS(at)dictaphone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine vibration |
Bill. try checking the reduction unit for gear slop. Flex the prop to cause a
run-out of one tip and then rotate the prop and see if there is excessive gear
slop. At the same time you can check for run-out play. This way you can check
for both loaded and unload gear lash. This may be the source of your vibration.
ALso, are you running a wooden prop? Check the balance of it. It may
have absorbed moisture.
>>> 11/14 8:25 AM >>>
Hi Guys,
I've got just a little over 300 hours on my Original FireStar with a 377
Rotax. It has been performing really good until now. During the past two
flights I noticed a strange vibration. It still seems to develop full power
on climb out, but after reaching altitude, when I throttle back, it vibrates
thru the airframe and just doesn't sound right. Much louder than usual. It
almost sounds like it is straining itself to continue turning the prop. I've
looked at the engine mounts and muffler, they appear to be secure. I checked
the prop tracking and balance, both are right on. The sparkplugs show good
color and the CHT and EGT indicate normal as previously. The gear box oil
level is OK at the lower screw. I even dumped out the fuel and tried a new
batch, to no avail (my buddy is using the same mix and his runs OK). Also
tried different jetting, but it did nothing to affect the problem.
I can't think of anything else to check externally, so I guess I'm going to
start pulling the engine apart. I'm thinking crankshaft or gearbox bearings.
Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this kind of noise and
vibration, so I might know what to look for.
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ
Original FireStar 377 (Grounded)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rutledge Fuller" <rut007(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | My Engine Rebuild |
It looks like it might stay together, so I will write on the experience.
Four weekends back I had my engine seize on the rear cylinder in
Colquitt, Ga. I was very happy that Mike Highsmith "Firehawk" had his
two seater so that I could hitch a ride back. I removed my engine from
the airframe and attached it underneath Mike's aircraft so that I could
get it back home to Quincy, Fl. Just kiddin'. I drove two hours back
to Colquitt to get the engine.
Now on with the story. I removed both pistons. The seized piston was
seized on both intake and exhaust and actually craked the skirt. I
believe that the cause was improperly mixed fuel. I replaced the fuel
pump, crakshaft seals, and piston. I did all the work myself and it
took a little time to collect the right tools. I tried several local
gear pullers to pull the gear off of the PTO side of the crank, I had to
finially give in and purchase the rotax gearpuller at around $60. It
took less than 2 seconds to pull it. It helps to have the right tools.
Next, I had to hone the cylinder for the new piston and rings which cost
$130. I finally gave up and ran to Sears and bought a regular stone
hone (fine). I am still waiting on the flex hone from on of the
Ultralight Suppliers which is on back order. I honed the cylinder until
i got a clearance between 4-5 thou. Bolted it up. Timed the motor
(points ignition) brought the motor to Colquitt, installed it and flew
it back to Quincy 1 hour and 10 minute flight after a breakin period.
I found that the rear newly honed cylinder ran 80 degrees cooler than
the front. Cruise was 287 cht. I often heard that Rotax sets it's
piston to cylinder clearance tight. I called around and spoke to
several Rotax mechanics and they agreed. After just two or so hours on
the engine, I took the front cylinder off and honed it to the same
clearance of between 4-5 thou and reinstalled it. My engine now runs
between 60 and 80 degrees cooler. I still show 40 degrees difference
between the front CHT and the rear. It was exactly that before the
engine seized. I believe that Rotax now installs a baffle between the
cylinders to evenly cool the heads. My old 377 doesn't.
So far so good with 86 hours, six since rebuild. I had a blast
rebuilding the engine and feel confident about working on the engine.
Comments welcome,
Rutledge Fuller
Tallahassee, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Swihart" <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
Ouch Richard! Your point is well made. It was the "coun-tree" in me that
shot the proposed solution to mickey shenigans in the ultralight to the
list.
-Scared of BIG RATS!- :)
Bradley, CA
> >
> >
> >Sounds like you need a barn cat...
> >
> >-Mark-
> >
> Have you ever seen a fabric airplane after a cat jumped on
> it and dug in
> so it wouldn't slip? If I ever see a cat in my barn, PETA won't
> be pleased...
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
>
> >>
> >>My FS2 is kept in an old cow barn in the middle of farm country
> and has been
> >>subject to mice damage. I have had two holes chewed in it, one in the
> >>fuselage and one in the wing root.
>
>
October 28, 1998 - November 16, 1998
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bb