Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bl
May 06, 1999 - May 28, 1999
Hey you guys...
Speaking of cables running through boom tubes, has anyone figured out a way
to keep all those cables from slapping the tube when you're on the ground
taxiing???
Steve Kroll
do not achive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BRS 5 for Sale |
Re: the BRS 5 for sale. It has a new rocket that I will either ship with the
cannister if possible, or deliver in person. If I cannot do this I will have
a new rocket shipped to the buyer directly from BRS at my expense. All
mounting hardware and new Kevlar harness is included in the price.
Steve Anderson / South Dakota
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
In a message dated 99-05-06 11:12:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, N51SK(at)aol.com
writes:
<< has anyone figured out a way
to keep all those cables from slapping the tube when you're on the ground
taxiing??? >>
I was recently thinking of that. How about punching a couple of big holes
in a tennis ball and running the cables through it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
Take a piece of closed cell packing foam about 1" thick, about same
diam as tube and about 3 - 4' long. Take off the elevator control
arm (which means also remove horiz stabilizers), and stuff that foam
up the tube. Since the foam pad is just a tad wide compared to tube
diameter, it will take a troughed shape in line with the tube and also
stay put. Another option I considered was to slip closed-cell pipe
insulating foam over the cables. This might allow you to avoid taking
off the tail -- not sure -- but they might move out of place over
time. Obviously, don't put anything on that would bind and prevent
free cable movement.
-Ben Ransom
>
>Hey you guys...
>Speaking of cables running through boom tubes, has anyone figured out a way
>to keep all those cables from slapping the tube when you're on the ground
>taxiing???
>Steve Kroll
>do not achive
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
I just finished the 500 hrs inspection on my MKIII and the rudder and
elevator cables look still like new and I can hear them slap in the tube
some time.
John Hauck, what do your cables look like after more than 1200 hrs flying
time. Any concern there?
Frank Reynen MKIII on Lotus floats
http://www.webcom.com/reynen/mark3
In a message dated 99-05-06 11:12:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
N51SK(at)aol.com
writes:
<< has anyone figured out a way
to keep all those cables from slapping the tube when you're on the ground
taxiing??? >>
I was recently thinking of that. How about punching a couple of big
holes
in a tennis ball and running the cables through it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heritage" <heritage(at)prtel.com> |
Am looking for some dual instruction near Knoxville, TN. Any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
Obviously, Bil has received many replies to his question about crossing
the rudder cables in the fuselage boom, so I won't add any more to that
topic. But while on the subject of rudder cables, I offer this small
tip to builders who have yet to connect their rudder cables, and to any
other Kolbers who might feel it's worthwhile to retrofit their existing
rudder cable connections. For my Mark-3, I installed a tang at the
forward end of each rudder cable where it connects to the steel strip
(which attaches to the pedal). Same kind of stainless steel tang that's
on each end of your tail cable braces. This allows a small amount of
adjustment in the lengths of your rudder cables. Original building
plans had no adjustment for rudders - this remedies that situation. And
Dennis Souder even blessed the idea. Hope this helps.
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
Building a Mark-3 (approx halfway done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual in Tenn? |
>Am looking for some dual instruction near Knoxville, TN. Any suggestions?
>
Haven't looked at a map lately so it might be WAY away from you...BUUUUUUT
the NEW Kolb Company in London , Ky can already help with dual instruction
at their airpark. This was what I was told when I was talking to John Yates
about it a week or so ago. He was explaining basically how the move to
Kentucky is supposed to go (being a new purchaser I was naturally concerned
to some extent...completely comfortable about it now) and told me that that
part of the operation could already be handled in Kentucky. The actual
factory isn't completed yet and he said they would move as they got the time
(so not to disturb production schedules anymore than they had to.) Might
give them a call , they supposedly have a factory pilot already hired to
handle instruction.
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
M3 wings & tail on order...
Studying plans like I'm back in school...
Happy as a pig in slop...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual in Tenn? |
Jeremy, it's abt 100 mi from Knoxville to London KY. GB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Diego O." <dor(at)epm.net.co> |
-----Mensaje original-----
De: STAECS(at)aol.com
Para: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Fecha: Mircoles, 05 de Mayo de 1999 11:53 p.m.
Asunto: Re: Kolb-List: Advise
>
>What I am having problems with is the wing/aileron seal. I use a Stits
>material with Stits Polytach adhesive but no matter how I prepare the
surface
>for replacement or reattachment the fabric will come loose, over time, at
the
>wingtips. I was excited to hear someone may have a solution.
>
>Steve Anderson / South Dakota
I also have this problem. So, has anyone flown without the gap seals?
Diego Ospina
Mark III builder,owner
Colombia, S.A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Snowmobile Engines and the Rotax 912 |
Mick Fine wrote:
> A couple reasons that Rotax can afford to sell UL engines (not talking
> 912's) are:
>
> 1. The product is essentially a high-priced snowmobile or watercraft engine
> that they've already developed and sell a (comparable) ton of and,
>
Hi Mick and Kolb Gang:
Ya'll can help me out here if you have any info on
snowmobiles (Rotax), especially in Canada.
I just assumed that the 912 was a purpose built airplane
engine. Never had any other idea about it until I landed at
some little airport in northern British Columbia. One of
the line guys got all excited when he saw the new Rotax 912
Skidoo snowmobile engine I was flying with on my MK III. I
questioned him ref this. He said it was the engine used on
some high performance snowmobile that had just come out.
This was June 1994.
OK. Is there anyone out there that knows anything about
what I spoke of above?
From what I gather the 912 is not a dedicated "aircraft"
engine........I theeeeeeenk.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi group,
When covering the ailerons I have found that if you cover the entire
aluminum tube clear into the horn with fabric the gap seal will stick. If
you try to poly tack the gap seal to the bare tube it won't stick very long.
Dick Kuntzleman
www.KEstrobes.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Advise (aileron gap seal) |
I also have this problem, altho it has been very minor. I've gone
back and added a dab of polytack to restick the loosening fabric end.
The problem is not surprising, being that the gap seal is stuck to
the wing trailing edge tube with only ~1/8". The more permanent
sol'n is to restick AND to add an overlap so you stick to more than
1/8". Seems too simple. I'll look at home myself tonight to see if
something makes this impossible.
-Ben Ransom
>
>
>-----Mensaje original-----
>De: STAECS(at)aol.com
>Para: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Fecha: Mircoles, 05 de Mayo de 1999 11:53 p.m.
>Asunto: Re: Kolb-List: Advise
>
>
>>
>>What I am having problems with is the wing/aileron seal. I use a Stits
>>material with Stits Polytach adhesive but no matter how I prepare the
>surface
>>for replacement or reattachment the fabric will come loose, over time, at
>the
>>wingtips. I was excited to hear someone may have a solution.
>>
>
>>Steve Anderson / South Dakota
>
>
>I also have this problem. So, has anyone flown without the gap seals?
>
>Diego Ospina
>Mark III builder,owner
>Colombia, S.A.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keeboman2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engines/costs |
Tim,
Thanks for bringing up this subject! Maybe I need to search the archives,
but to hell w/ it,
I want to know now! I have been on this list for 4 months now and sometimes
find it intimidating to ask questions because most of ya'll (sorry Im from
Texas) seem to be very knowledgeable and also very opinionated. Is the 4
stroke more reliable than the 2 stroke, and if so, how considering the rpm
the 912 runs @5800 Rpm and the 582 runs @ 6800 Rpm? I look at the specs for
GA engines and the Continental 0-200, for example, that run 100 hp @2750
rpm.Does this have anything to do w/anything? I love ultralights and plan to
buy the Mark III, but I want to know when I take up my 3 kids and wife (she
will be there w/me as much as she can, she loves it) that I am comfortable in
my flights. Is it all about cost, how can u put a price tag on your life. Now
I don't know jack about this subject and it maybe very simple, so take it
easy on me.
PS At Sun-Fun I could not get the question answered for me, other than "Cause
it is" even the nice engineer guy for Kolb (maybe he was busy and hot?) didnt
give a convincing answer.
Keebo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engines/costs |
OK, here's my neck stuck out a mile...
This is about reliability of the two stroke versus the four stroke.
The biggest difference is how the internal parts are lubricated.
A four stroke runs in this nice bath of oil. In fact, a pump even puts
extra oil where its needed.
The two stroke (oil/gas mix type) just adds some oil to the gas, about 1
or 2% and thats all she gets.
The most common failure mode of the two stroke is "seizure". The piston
sticks to the cylinder wall.
It galls and looks real ugly when you take it apart. Some times at this
point pieces of the piston end up in the exhaust port, or worse, they
end up PARTLY in the exhaust port.
The four stroke almost never fails this way.
The secret to a reliable two stroke is mostly taking just a little extra
pains to do it right.
Keep the jetting right. Watch the EGT. Warm it up at least a little
bit before full throttle take-off.
A two stroke engine CAN be very reliable. But it will never be as
forgiving as a four stroke.
Don't find yourself asking for forgiveness.
Enough philosophy. Good night.
Woody Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bil Ragsdale" <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Thanks for cable input |
Thanks to Larry, William, Todd and Dennis for your input per rudder cable
installation. My Mk lll has 30 hours. I could not see any evidence of
chafe. Guess it's ok.
Thanks, Bil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bil Ragsdale" <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
Hey thanks to all of you on this list. I can't say enough about the help
all of you have been to me trying to get this poor Mk lll back in the air.
New problem: I broke one pop rivet tool on those 3/16 rivets that hold the
leading edge of the horizontal stab. With my other one, I hate to admit it,
but I ain't man enough to squeeze the short handles together to pull those
rivets. Do all you guys look like you belong on the cover of +ACI-muscle man+ACI-
magazine or what is the solution for a 190 pound weakling like me?
Thanks again, Bil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bil Ragsdale" <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
I called a local Fed here in San Antonio and asked about how to get my Mk
lll registered experimental. It is currently a UL +ACI-for instructional use
only+ACI-. He said it was a piece of cake to do. He said the AOPA got some
rules set up so that it is easy to get this accomplished with a Experimental
certificate for +ACI-exhibition+ACI- purposes.
I told him I just wanted to get a plain vanilla Experimental certificate.
He said that could be done but you have to completely disassemble the bird
and start over. That threw that idea out the window.
He said with the +ACI-exhibition+ACI- certificate all I need to do is fill out
a
form and he will inspect it when it's ready to fly. I assume the usual 25
hour fly off applies. Mainly it's good news that it sounds like it will be
easy. It may be that it will be easy though because I taught the Fed in A +ACY-
P school where I used to teach in 1973.
Bil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3/16 pop rivets |
Bil, hack off a coupla pcs of any kind of steel tubing--conduit is fine
and cheep. Slip over each handle of squeezer. If it's Craftsman, all the
better cause if they break, Sears will replace them. Now you have a lot
more leverage and can use two hands.
Grey (old cow milker) Baron
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Guys,
The Original FireStar must be designed differently because the rudder
cables do not cross. When the left rudder is pushed, it pulls the left
cable and the left rudder horn inputting left rudder. Obviously, the
right is the same, but the two do not cross. I have, however, crossed the
right rudder and the top elevator cable which is very easy to do when
pulling them out. To inspect, I attach a string to each pulling them out
one at a time, inspecting, then putting it back.
The one that was crossed was in there for two years and went unnoticed
until the next inspection. They were not chafed or polished and looked
OK.
While on the subject, the inspection should include twisting the cable
the opposite way it is wound to look "inside" for frayed wires where it
runs through the pulley, if there is one. I saw in the EXPERIMENTER a
cable the looked great on the outside but was frayed inside. One pilots
life was saved because a friend recommended that he inspect the inside of
his elevator cable. He did and was shocked to see the wear that had taken
place. In our Kolbs, this kind of wear would be uncommon because there
are no 90 deg bends around pulleys. Mine looks good after 450 hours.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
writes:
>
>
>Yah, they do cross. If you look at the pedals and think about which
>way the
>rudder has to move as you move each pedal, you'll see that they HAVE
>to
>cross.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
I have once again hung an innocent man.That tach that I was having that
hissy fit over is a Sky Sports tach. I called Airstar about it and
realized my mistake. I almost felt bad for a second..Foggy today, no
crow hops, just cold crow pie.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Thank you Dick. It shall be done, starting next week. I love those KISS
solutions. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dickk9(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Advise
>
> Hi group,
>
> When covering the ailerons I have found that if you cover the
entire
> aluminum tube clear into the horn with fabric the gap seal will stick. If
> you try to poly tack the gap seal to the bare tube it won't stick very
long.
>
> Dick Kuntzleman
> www.KEstrobes.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
>The Original FireStar must be designed differently because the rudder
>cables do not cross. When the left rudder is pushed, it pulls the left
>cable and the left rudder horn inputting left rudder. Obviously, the
>right is the same, but the two do not cross.
I didnt go checking my plans but as far as I can figure my FSII will not
need the cables crossed either. why do they cross on a mkIII? push right
go right, whats the deal?
TOPher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Better read the fine print, Bil. Seems to me there are more restrictions
on an exhibition certificate. I read something a couple of years ago about
re-powering a GA aircraft with an exp. engine, and registering it as
exhibition. Seems like it was a Cessna with a V6, and the rules sounded
like a nightmare. Kitplanes ?? Took a quick look, but didn't flag it, so
it'd be a bitch to find. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bil Ragsdale <bilrags(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 8:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: FAA cert
>
> I called a local Fed here in San Antonio and asked about how to get my Mk
> lll registered experimental. It is currently a UL +ACI-for instructional
use
> only+ACI-. He said it was a piece of cake to do. He said the AOPA got
some
> rules set up so that it is easy to get this accomplished with a
Experimental
> certificate for +ACI-exhibition+ACI- purposes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
On the Mk III, the left cable is pulled by the left Passenger pedal, which
is of a piece with the pilot's side. Right is pulled by the right Pilot's
pedal. The 2 go down between the seats, and cross inside the boom. Your
point on inspecting the cables is very well taken. I read that article, and
forgot it. Thanks. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rudder cables
>
> Guys,
>
> The Original FireStar must be designed differently because the rudder
> cables do not cross. When the left rudder is pushed, it pulls the left
> cable and the left rudder horn inputting left rudder. Obviously, the
> right is the same, but the two do not cross. I have, however, crossed the
> right rudder and the top elevator cable which is very easy to do when
> pulling them out. To inspect, I attach a string to each pulling them out
> one at a time, inspecting, then putting it back.
> The one that was crossed was in there for two years and went unnoticed
> until the next inspection. They were not chafed or polished and looked
> OK.
>
> While on the subject, the inspection should include twisting the cable
> the opposite way it is wound to look "inside" for frayed wires where it
> runs through the pulley, if there is one. I saw in the EXPERIMENTER a
> cable the looked great on the outside but was frayed inside. One pilots
> life was saved because a friend recommended that he inspect the inside of
> his elevator cable. He did and was shocked to see the wear that had taken
> place. In our Kolbs, this kind of wear would be uncommon because there
> are no 90 deg bends around pulleys. Mine looks good after 450 hours.
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original FireStar, 447 powered
>
>
> writes:
> >
> >
> >Yah, they do cross. If you look at the pedals and think about which
> >way the
> >rudder has to move as you move each pedal, you'll see that they HAVE
> >to
> >cross.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Well don't feel like the lone stranger, Dell. After reading this message, I
got that cold, uneasy feeling too, and dug out the bill for my slip
indicator. Same as you Pal, I blamed Airstar in haste, and now see that it
was your friends from SkySports who gouged me. That was 1/5/98. That
crow don't taste any better in company. Sorry Airstar. Big
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 8:46 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: tachs
>
> I have once again hung an innocent man.That tach that I was having that
> hissy fit over is a Sky Sports tach. I called Airstar about it and
> realized my mistake. I almost felt bad for a second..Foggy today, no
> crow hops, just cold crow pie.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
Hi Steve:
You inquired about cables slapping around inside the fuselage tube.
When I built my MKIII, I slipped each of the tail feather cables into it's
own foam insulation tube (used for plumbing/pipes). These tubes are readily
available at your local hardware or plumbing store. Now there is no
embarrassing slapping of cables, nor is there any unnecessary wear to the
cables. It works for me - - -
Ron Christensen
MKIII/2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
I agree with Dick on covering the aileron and flap torque tubes. Besides
for those of you who are using PolyTone, it doen't stick well to aluminum
but will stick very well if you cover the metal with dacron first. We made
up sewed dacron tubes, polytacked the tubes, slide the dacron tubes (we
bought a heavy dacron thread at the local fabric store) over the aileron and
flap tubes, ironed (actaully used a heat gun verrrrry carefully)them for
shrinkage and polybrushed in place, installed/attached on the wing, then
polyTOned the entire wing with aileron and flap gap seals in place.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dickk9(at)aol.com [mailto:Dickk9(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Advise
Hi group,
When covering the ailerons I have found that if you cover the entire
aluminum tube clear into the horn with fabric the gap seal will stick. If
you try to poly tack the gap seal to the bare tube it won't stick very long.
Dick Kuntzleman
www.KEstrobes.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engines/costs |
In a message dated 99-05-06 9:15:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Keeboman2(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Is the 4
stroke more reliable than the 2 stroke, and if so, how considering the rpm
the 912 runs @5800 Rpm and the 582 runs @ 6800 Rpm? >>
The question you ask is not helpful. The folklore is that 4 stroke
engines are more reliable. But when you look closely at the accidents that
folks flying kolbs have you will see that engine stoppages usually have alot
more to do with opperator/builder problems than they do with things that have
to do with the nature of two versus four strokes. Some might argue that 4
stroke engines are more tolerant of human introduced errors. If you run your
2 stroke carefully it should be fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
Diego, I was told by "Dan" at Kolb to not attempt to fly the MKIII without
some sort of aileron gap seals. The air bleed through the gaps negate much
of the control authority and could place you in harms way. Using anything -
masking tape - is better than nothing. Many people use a fabric colored
tape - similar to duck tape to seal the gaps rather than use a stits type
method. the gap seals need not cover from one end to the other. Sealing the
gaps between each of the hinges is fine.
There is no performance difference if you seal continuously from one end to
the other, only that it looks better. Also, there is no difference sealing
on top versus bottom. Again, esthetics. Remember to leave enough gap
material so the control surfaces can extend fully up and down. I sealed on
the bottom and placed a crease in the middle so when the surface is
deflected down the control surface(s) gap seal will naturally bend/fold to
take up the slack. I installed the gaps, therefore, with the control
surface fully deflected up, I had the wing upside down on the building table
to do this and drooped the control surface over the edge of the table. This
provided the widest opening of the control surface gaps for me to cover. Get
a good set of Pinking Shears to make your gap seals. We built a frame to
lay up and shrink dacron, then brushed and poly sprayed the material. then
we cut our gaps seal strips and applied on the wing. When all was completed
we Polytoned the entire wing, all control surfaces and the gaps in the same
painting session. Sort of "measure twice, paint once" kind of thing. Well,
maybe not. Anyway, this is just one method you can use.
Few! Sorry for all the words but I hope it's clear.
Hope this helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: Diego O. [mailto:dor(at)epm.net.co]
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 6:18 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Advise
-----Mensaje original-----
De: STAECS(at)aol.com
Para: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Fecha: Mircoles, 05 de Mayo de 1999 11:53 p.m.
Asunto: Re: Kolb-List: Advise
>
>What I am having problems with is the wing/aileron seal. I use a Stits
>material with Stits Polytach adhesive but no matter how I prepare the
surface
>for replacement or reattachment the fabric will come loose, over time, at
the
>wingtips. I was excited to hear someone may have a solution.
>
>Steve Anderson / South Dakota
I also have this problem. So, has anyone flown without the gap seals?
Diego Ospina
Mark III builder,owner
Colombia, S.A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com wrote:
> John Hauck, what do your cables look like after more than 1200 hrs flying
>
Frank and Kolb Gang:
My rudder cables are ready to be replaced. I have one or
two broken strands on each cable where they rub on
fairleads. Something I had not been too concerned about in
the past, but needs to be included on preflight insp. Those
cables are contantly moving when the engine is running,
which means they are constantly being worn where they
contact the fairleads. 7X7 cable would wear better than
7X19, probably.
I splice in a turnbuckle to get the adjustment just right on
each rudder cable.
I will pull the elevator cables soon. I went overboard when
I built my MK III and used 1/8 inch cable. I will replace
them 3/32 and save a lot of weight.
As for cable slap when taxiing: I have been listening to
and answering questions about the "noise" for over 15 years
now. Cable slap is all Kolb and/or New Kolb noise. I don't
hear it, so it does not bother me. Like to keep things as
simple as possible. I did slip and secure a piece of
hydraulic brake tubing over the cable that runs over the top
of the "H" brace in the tail boom, to keep from wearing the
cable and the brace. Tubing is secured to cable on both
ends with safety wire. Has worked well.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tony.deb" <tony.deb(at)cwix.com> |
I've got 45 hours on my mark 3 an no noticeable problems without the gap
seal-theres nothin but hinge- Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: Diego O. <dor(at)epm.net.co>
Date: Friday, May 07, 1999 2:58 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Advise
>
>
>-----Mensaje original-----
>De: STAECS(at)aol.com
>Para: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Fecha: Mircoles, 05 de Mayo de 1999 11:53 p.m.
>Asunto: Re: Kolb-List: Advise
>
>
>>
>>What I am having problems with is the wing/aileron seal. I use a Stits
>>material with Stits Polytach adhesive but no matter how I prepare the
>surface
>>for replacement or reattachment the fabric will come loose, over time, at
>the
>>wingtips. I was excited to hear someone may have a solution.
>>
>
>>Steve Anderson / South Dakota
>
>
>I also have this problem. So, has anyone flown without the gap seals?
>
>Diego Ospina
>Mark III builder,owner
>Colombia, S.A.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tony.deb" <tony.deb(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2 stroke 4 stroke |
Remember flyin model planes? You fired up the 2 stroke tweaked it to max
rpm- no warm up an they ran till the fuel was gone.My point- 2 strokes are
reliable-do the maintanance an do a good pre-flite---Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net>
Date: Friday, May 07, 1999 7:11 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: engines/costs
>
>OK, here's my neck stuck out a mile...
>This is about reliability of the two stroke versus the four stroke.
>The biggest difference is how the internal parts are lubricated.
>A four stroke runs in this nice bath of oil. In fact, a pump even puts
>extra oil where its needed.
>The two stroke (oil/gas mix type) just adds some oil to the gas, about 1
>or 2% and thats all she gets.
>The most common failure mode of the two stroke is "seizure". The piston
>sticks to the cylinder wall.
>It galls and looks real ugly when you take it apart. Some times at this
>point pieces of the piston end up in the exhaust port, or worse, they
>end up PARTLY in the exhaust port.
>The four stroke almost never fails this way.
>The secret to a reliable two stroke is mostly taking just a little extra
>pains to do it right.
>Keep the jetting right. Watch the EGT. Warm it up at least a little
>bit before full throttle take-off.
>A two stroke engine CAN be very reliable. But it will never be as
>forgiving as a four stroke.
>Don't find yourself asking for forgiveness.
>Enough philosophy. Good night.
>Woody Weaver
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Advise (aileron gap seal) |
Hi Ben,
I did add this "extension" already quite a few years ago in the prop area
and it is still holdingup well but now the seal itself is split right down
the middle there and I am thinking of removing the seals between the flap
and aileron tube and also between the aileron and trailing edge tube from
the root to as far as the prop extends which is at the start of the flap
surface. The fact that I first primed all the tubes with Stits epoxy
primer EP-420 has increased the longevity of the seal attachment greatly.
This epoxy holds extremely well on aluminum and Polytak cement really
sticks well to this epoxy primer.
Frank Reynen MKIII
http://www.webcom.com/reynen/mark3
I also have this problem, altho it has been very minor. I've gone
back and added a dab of polytack to restick the loosening fabric end.
The problem is not surprising, being that the gap seal is stuck to
the wing trailing edge tube with only ~1/8". The more permanent
sol'n is to restick AND to add an overlap so you stick to more than
1/8". Seems too simple. I'll look at home myself tonight to see if
something makes this impossible.
-Ben Ransom
>
>
>-----Mensaje original-----
>De: STAECS(at)aol.com
>Para: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Fecha: Mircoles, 05 de Mayo de 1999 11:53 p.m.
>Asunto: Re: Kolb-List: Advise
>
>
>>
>>What I am having problems with is the wing/aileron seal. I use a Stits
>>material with Stits Polytach adhesive but no matter how I prepare the
>surface
>>for replacement or reattachment the fabric will come loose, over time, at
>the
>>wingtips. I was excited to hear someone may have a solution.
>>
>
>>Steve Anderson / South Dakota
>
>
>I also have this problem. So, has anyone flown without the gap seals?
>
>Diego Ospina
>Mark III builder,owner
>Colombia, S.A.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: engines/costs |
>I want to know now! I have been on this list for 4 months now and sometimes
>find it intimidating to ask questions because most of ya'll (sorry Im from
>Texas) seem to be very knowledgeable and also very opinionated. Is the 4
>stroke more reliable than the 2 stroke, and if so, how considering the rpm
>the 912 runs @5800 Rpm and the 582 runs @ 6800 Rpm? I look at the specs for
>GA engines and the Continental 0-200, for example, that run 100 hp @2750
>rpm.Does this have anything to do w/anything? I love ultralights and plan
to
>buy the Mark III, but I want to know when I take up my 3 kids and wife (she
>will be there w/me as much as she can, she loves it) that I am comfortable
in
>my flights. Is it all about cost, how can u put a price tag on your life.
Now
>I don't know jack about this subject and it maybe very simple, so take it
>easy on me.
>>Cavuontop wrote:
>>The question you ask is not helpful. The folklore is that 4 stroke
>>engines are more reliable. But when you look closely at the accidents that
>>folks flying kolbs have you will see that engine stoppages usually have
alot
>>more to do with opperator/builder problems than they do with things that
have
>>to do with the nature of two versus four strokes. Some might argue that 4
>>stroke engines are more tolerant of human introduced errors. If you run
your
>>2 stroke carefully it should be fine.
Cavuontop,
Your last 2 sentences are the paradox and problem with 2-strokes. I.E.
a 2 stroke requires greater human care to equal the reliability of a 4
stroke, but human errors (running "carefully") are as sure as death and
taxes ...they WILL happen. And this is especially true with regard
to Keebo, or anybody else starting out, because there is a learning
curve toward the experience and knowledge required to run a 2-stroke
carefully. ANY part of an airplane that is more tolerant of human
mistakes or lack of knowledge makes that airplane safer.
Keebo ...wrt engine rpm ...if two different types of engines are operated
at their designed rpm, the rpm issue is not relevant to reliability.
For example, I don't know what rpm a PT-6 turbine engine runs at, but
it is way high, and they never fail. On the other hand, I'll be lucky
if my low rpm lawnmower makes it thru the weekend.
PS: dont be intimidated to ask questions!! Read, ask, learn.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
In a message dated 5/6/99 11:39:33 PM Central Daylight Time,
Tophera(at)centuryinter.net writes:
> I didnt go checking my plans but as far as I can figure my FSII will not
> need the cables crossed either. why do they cross on a mkIII? push right
> go right, whats the deal?
>
> TOPher
The 2 place Kolbs have 2 sets of pedals that are and the cable
interconnected......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice, some thoughts... |
Someone asked:
>I want to know now! I have been on this list for 4 months now and sometimes
>find it intimidating to ask questions because most of ya'll (sorry Im from
>Texas) seem to be very knowledgeable and also very opinionated. Is the 4
>stroke more reliable than the 2 stroke, and if so, how considering the rpm
>the 912 runs @5800 Rpm and the 582 runs @ 6800 Rpm? I look at the specs for
>GA engines and the Continental 0-200, for example, that run 100 hp @2750
>rpm.Does this have anything to do w/anything? I love ultralights and plan to
>buy the Mark III, but I want to know when I take up my 3 kids and wife (she
>will be there w/me as much as she can, she loves it) that I am comfortable in
>my flights. Is it all about cost, how can u put a price tag on your life. Now
>I don't know jack about this subject and it maybe very simple, so take it
>easy on me.
Engine choice is not an easy answer. I feel it can be looked at a few different
ways. You could look at the statistics of the two engines if they were
available (I don't know where you'd find them). I would bet that the stats
would show the 912 has more hours per unit in service before interruption (read
un-planned landing). If this assumption is true, it is at least partially
attributable to operator errors and misunderstandings. As someone has already
said, the four-stroke is much more forgiving of operator mistakes than the
two-stroke. On the other hand, if you understand two strokes, and are willing
to be dilligent in maintenance and fine-tuning, the engine can be very reliable.
Price enters the picture, but to me it is not as clear as the difference in
retail price. You really must consider purchase price + operating costs through
some chosen lifespan. The operating costs will include fuel and oil, etc, and
maintenance & rebuild costs. If the two-stroke needs an 800 dollar crank every
300 hours, the difference in $5K and $10K purchase price from a 582 and 912 in
2000 hours is really almost zero! Add to this the cost of fuel. It sounds like
the 912 is more efficient. I cannot give you figures here but I know 10 gallons
is not enough fuel if you run a 582 and plan to go anywhere. The 582 can use up
to 7 gallons per hour, and seems to cruise at around 5. At 70 mph, with any
thought to a reserve, you get 150 miles plus/minus wind.
Additionally, the installed weight is a factor. Build it the way you want it to
fly. Keep it as light as possible if you want a fun-flying, quick-responding,
Kolb-climbing, short-roll toy. If you want to go places, consider the heavier
engine. Note that the gross weight limit will be exceeded easily if you haul
two people plus minimal cargo plus 16 gallons fuel, if you have a 175 pound
installed weight on the engine alone.
RPM: If the engine is made for 6800 RPM, it doesn't mean it is necessarily less
reliable than one made to run at 2750 (although it is obvious that any one of us
would like the dependability of the Continental).
I have the 582. I understand and love operating two-strokes. The tinkering
fits my personality. The light weight and high power make my plane fly the way
I want it to. The fuel economy sucks. The price was too high already, so the
four-stroke was out even before considering the weight. I will find it easier to
add the money incrementally at each rebuild every few years, rather than come up
with $10000 all at once.
If you do not own a snowmobile or an ATV or motorcycle with a two-stroke, and
have never owned one and operated it for a while, I would suggest going with the
912. You'll have less to learn and you'll be safer while learning it.
If you are into more experimentation, or have some time before purchase,
consider waiting to see how these Geo 1000 engines work out. I feel they have
the best chance of replacing the Rotax 912, although I'm already hearing they're
too thirsty. The absolute greatest engine for the MKiii would produce 80-90 Hp,
but weigh 125 lbs or less, complete, wet, and burn less than 4-5 gallons/hr
cruise (in other words, the installed weight of the 582 but with the fuel burn
and power of the 912!).
my 2 cents worth.
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
This reminds me of a fly-in I was at a couple years ago. Some EAA folks who
made "knock-offs" of Firestars came over to my plane, lifted the boom and
shook it. They were quite amused to hear the clanking of the wires. They
apparently had a fix to this. Although I had the last laugh when they told
me that the weight of their plane was about 380 and could only climb about
800fpm with a 503!! I guess they FIXED too many things.
Scott Olendorf
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 12:28 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rudder cables
>
> In a message dated 99-05-06 11:12:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
N51SK(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> << has anyone figured out a way
> to keep all those cables from slapping the tube when you're on the ground
> taxiing??? >>
>
>
> I was recently thinking of that. How about punching a couple of big
holes
> in a tennis ball and running the cables through it?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3/16 pop rivets |
Bill,
One trick I fell upon is to start squeezing the handles of the puller with
a1/8-3/16" gap between the rivot head & the puller's nose (as opposed to the
normal method of having the nose touching the rivot head.) This allows the
handles to come close together before they produce a lot of tension. Since your
hand has much more gripping power at this position, you can squeeze large rivots
much easier. The trade-off is that your stroke is limited, so you need more of
them to pop the rivot. ...Richard S
bob n wrote:
>
> Bil, hack off a coupla pcs of any kind of steel tubing--conduit is fine
> and cheep. Slip over each handle of squeezer. If it's Craftsman, all the
> better cause if they break, Sears will replace them. Now you have a lot
> more leverage and can use two hands.
>
> Grey (old cow milker) Baron
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cables fraying |
This string reminds me of an incident I had with my old UltraStar. I found
fraying at two of the 90 degree bend pulleys after about 250 hrs. I switched
all of the 90 degree bend pulleys to ones with a larger diameters & I replaced
the cable with a steel cable which is more resistant to fraying than stainless
steel. Richard S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engines/costs |
A ya'll (sorry Im from
>Texas) seem to be very knowledgeable and also very opinionated.
We are not opinionated but if everyone would just do things my way it
would be a lot simpler.
I look at the specs for
>GA engines and the Continental 0-200, for example, that run 100 hp @2750
>rpm.Does this have anything to do w/anything?
>
The big engines get their power ratings through big displacements. Little
engines like the 912 get the HP through RPM.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Souder <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
>
>>The Original FireStar must be designed differently because the rudder
>>cables do not cross. When the left rudder is pushed, it pulls the left
>>cable and the left rudder horn inputting left rudder. Obviously, the
>>right is the same, but the two do not cross.
>
>I didnt go checking my plans but as far as I can figure my FSII will not
>need the cables crossed either. why do they cross on a mkIII? push right
>go right, whats the deal?
>
>
The deal is this: I the Mark-III the cables are attached to the opposite
rudder pedals; there are two sets of pedals in the Mark-III. So to keep the
cables on the center line, they are attached opposite as the FireStar.
It confuses me to sometimes!
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engines/costs |
Tim,
One theory has it that the 4-stroke is more reliable because its pistons get
to rest every other stroke & have more time to dissipate their heat. Aluminum
grows faster than steel so a little bit of piston heat can quickly take up the
clearance between it and the steel cylinder wall & cause that frequent 2-cycle
phenomenon known as siezure! The last time I blueprinted an engine, I was finial
checking the piston clearance with a go-no-go feeler gauge. It was perfect. I
took the piston inside to scribe a number on it & put it back in & rechecked it--
this time it didn't fit (with the go-no-go gauge.) It was 50 degrees in the
garage & 70 in the house. That small change in temperature caused the aluminum
piston to grow that much. When it cooled back down, it fit perfect again.
Depending on how a 2-stroke is jetted, there is often only a 100 degrees
difference between normal operating temperature & siezure. Compared to
4-strokes, 2-strokes are more on the "pushing the limit" or "running on the edge"
end of the continuum. That is one of the reasons why they are less forgiving and
demand more vigilance on our part. Our 2-strokes normally run close to that
critical limit & any number of variables can eat away at our small margin of
safety (eg., prop setting, throttle setting, jetting, fuel pressure, ambient air
temp, angle of climb, oil ratio, octane, plug range, plus a bunch of Murphy's
secret dirty tricks!). The high performance of a 2-stroke is not
free. Richard S
Keeboman2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Tim,
> Thanks for bringing up this subject! Maybe I need to search the archives,
> but to hell w/ it,
> I want to know now! I have been on this list for 4 months now and sometimes
> find it intimidating to ask questions because most of ya'll (sorry Im from
> Texas) seem to be very knowledgeable and also very opinionated. Is the 4
> stroke more reliable than the 2 stroke, and if so, how considering the rpm
> the 912 runs @5800 Rpm and the 582 runs @ 6800 Rpm? I look at the specs for
> GA engines and the Continental 0-200, for example, that run 100 hp @2750
> rpm.Does this have anything to do w/anything? [snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice, some thoughts... |
Jim, that was a great reply. It sounds like you've really done your
homework, and I'm in the same ball park as you, but with a slightly
different viewpoint. To get away from the high cost of the 912 and all, I
went to the VW, and accept the extra weight. Some time ago, I mentioned a
friend who is building a Titan Tornado, and planned on installing the Czech
SVS engine. Caused a bit of a stir on the list too, as I recall. Well, he
changed his mind and went to the Jabiru, basing his decision on weight.
The engine arrived yesterday, and I went to look it over this morning. Woof
! ! ! That thing is like a piece of jewellry. Absolutely beautiful. All
corners and edges are radiused, everything is polished; oh man ! ! ! It's
advertised at 127 # complete, and while I didn't have a scale handy, I did
pick it up, complete, ready to run, and I would guess it fairly close to
that. Jim, it puts out 80 hp at 3200 rpm (??), and weighs about like a 582,
so it fits your criteria fairly well. My only objection to it is the high
cost of the thing, and I'm unsure of the smaller, higher speed prop for our
application, but it is most definitely food for thought.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 1999 12:05 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Engine choice, some thoughts...
>
> Someone asked:
>
> >I want to know now! I have been on this list for 4 months now and
sometimes
> >find it intimidating to ask questions because most of ya'll (sorry Im
from
> >Texas) seem to be very knowledgeable and also very opinionated. Is the 4
> >stroke more reliable than the 2 stroke, and if so, how considering the
rpm
> >the 912 runs @5800 Rpm and the 582 runs @ 6800 Rpm? I look at the specs
for
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ajvann" <redhill(at)rose.net> |
Into the Wild Blue: The World's Best Flight Teams puts viewers in the
cockpits with famous aerobatic teams and military squadrons. Actor Tom
Skerritt (Picket Fences, The Other Sister) hosts this special on
Saturday at 8 p.m. ET on the History Channel (F3, 12, or 241 RCA satellite).
Navy Blue Angels, Air Force Thunderbirds and Canadian Snowbirds all will be
featured.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Last Update MKIII Performance |
Hey All:
I had 3 things happen last Friday, May 7th; I flew my new shaped wing tips, I
completed the 40 hour flight test requirement, and received a complement from
the Chino, CA control tower on my landing at the end of the day.
With regard to the wing tips, some of you may recall that I reduced the
overall wing span by 3 ft. by removing the factory designed bow, and adding
back fiber glass covered carved foam wing tips. The first set of wing tips
curled up; the second set drooped down; the third and final set flown for the
first time last Friday is shaped like the original factory design and work
BEST. The full 30 ft. wing span and the original flat bottom bow shape have
now been restored. The new tips are still in their raw unfinished state;
i.e., there are many hours of sanding and filling to be done prior to paint.
What an interesting lesson in experimenting; guess this is what EAA is all
about.
Anyway, the new wing tips gained about 5 MPH in cruise speed to 70, dropped
the stall speed by about 3 MPH to 38 MPH and improved the climb rate by about
400 FPM to 1000 FPM. Neither the climb nor the cruise speeds are improved as
much as I had hoped, but the gain is worth the effort. The lesson learned is
that Homer and Dennis did a GREAT job with the MKIII design. It will take a
much better man than me to improve the performance of this airplane.
With the flight testing completed and the lift performance improvement both
on the same day, I can now take my wife for a ride; she has been "on-my-case"
to get the 40 hour Phase I flight testing completed. Due to prior
commitments, the big day for us won't be until Wednesday, May 12th. On
Friday, May 14th., weather permitting, I'll fly to Palm Springs to see our
Kolb-List friend "Big Lar."
On serious problem remains; my icom handheld radio is too "puny" for
effective communications beyond about 5 miles. This is bad news for flying
in an area like Los Angeles. Do any of you guys know of an external 12 volt
power amplifier that could amplify the output of a handheld? Such a device
would sure be great to have; this is a business opportunity for some clever
soul.
Thanks to all of you who provided encouragement and ideas during my wing tip
saga. It was fun, but expensive and time consuming.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
N313DR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | vortex generators |
Listers:
someone was inquiring about vortex generators so I copied & pasted
this ad from UL Homepage. ...Richard S
From: OLYMPIC ULTRALIGHTS (motavia(at)olypen.com)
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 1999
Vortex Generators
We guarantee that you will have a lower stall speed, and
better flight characteristics, or we will refund with a smile!
$395 for everything you need.
1 to 2 hour installation.
Higher gross wt*
Better climb.
Lower stall speed.
Ailerons work more effectively.
Many report less prop noise due to less cavitation.
We can send two sided carpet tape so you can try them without
gluing them on. You may need to move them 1 or 2 times to find
the perfect spot, unless we already have a set on your type of
plane.
Give it a try. You have nothing to lose.
Blu Sky`s!
Mike Brown
Olympic Ultralights L.L.C.
(360) 452-0117
*Never exceed the max gross wt as set by the manufacturer of
your aircraft without consulting them first!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Last Update MKIII Performance |
Ron,do you have an external ant. on your radio?If not,that will improve your
range more than an amp.and lots cheaper too.
Rick Webb
-----Original Message-----
From: RLCPTL(at)aol.com <RLCPTL(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, May 09, 1999 4:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Last Update MKIII Performance
>
>Hey All:
>I had 3 things happen last Friday, May 7th; I flew my new shaped wing tips,
I
>completed the 40 hour flight test requirement, and received a complement
from
>the Chino, CA control tower on my landing at the end of the day.
>
>With regard to the wing tips, some of you may recall that I reduced the
>overall wing span by 3 ft. by removing the factory designed bow, and adding
>back fiber glass covered carved foam wing tips. The first set of wing tips
>curled up; the second set drooped down; the third and final set flown for
the
>first time last Friday is shaped like the original factory design and work
>BEST. The full 30 ft. wing span and the original flat bottom bow shape
have
>now been restored. The new tips are still in their raw unfinished state;
>i.e., there are many hours of sanding and filling to be done prior to
paint.
>What an interesting lesson in experimenting; guess this is what EAA is all
>about.
>
>Anyway, the new wing tips gained about 5 MPH in cruise speed to 70, dropped
>the stall speed by about 3 MPH to 38 MPH and improved the climb rate by
about
>400 FPM to 1000 FPM. Neither the climb nor the cruise speeds are improved
as
>much as I had hoped, but the gain is worth the effort. The lesson learned
is
>that Homer and Dennis did a GREAT job with the MKIII design. It will take
a
>much better man than me to improve the performance of this airplane.
>
>With the flight testing completed and the lift performance improvement both
>on the same day, I can now take my wife for a ride; she has been
"on-my-case"
>to get the 40 hour Phase I flight testing completed. Due to prior
>commitments, the big day for us won't be until Wednesday, May 12th. On
>Friday, May 14th., weather permitting, I'll fly to Palm Springs to see our
>Kolb-List friend "Big Lar."
>
>On serious problem remains; my icom handheld radio is too "puny" for
>effective communications beyond about 5 miles. This is bad news for flying
>in an area like Los Angeles. Do any of you guys know of an external 12
volt
>power amplifier that could amplify the output of a handheld? Such a device
>would sure be great to have; this is a business opportunity for some clever
>soul.
>
>Thanks to all of you who provided encouragement and ideas during my wing
tip
>saga. It was fun, but expensive and time consuming.
>
>Ron Christensen
>MKIII1/2
>N313DR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Last Update MKIII Performance |
Ron
I have seen this amp in CHIEF AIRCRAFT this is an aircraft outlet. I have
been wanting to talk to someone that has used one but have not had any
luck the unit cost 175 -200 bucks I to have a M 3 with a Icom 21 like
you it seems that 4 / 5 mi. is all she will do I can receive at least
30mi maybe more but if I cant get back it is not doing the whole job
that I want it to.Hope that this will help in the mean time I will try to
get the number if you have the # let me know
Rick Libersat
>
>Hey All:
>I had 3 things happen last Friday, May 7th; I flew my new shaped wing
>tips, I
>completed the 40 hour flight test requirement, and received a
>complement from
>the Chino, CA control tower on my landing at the end of the day.
>
>With regard to the wing tips, some of you may recall that I reduced
>the
>overall wing span by 3 ft. by removing the factory designed bow, and
>adding
>back fiber glass covered carved foam wing tips. The first set of wing
>tips
>curled up; the second set drooped down; the third and final set flown
>for the
>first time last Friday is shaped like the original factory design and
>work
>BEST. The full 30 ft. wing span and the original flat bottom bow
>shape have
>now been restored. The new tips are still in their raw unfinished
>state;
>i.e., there are many hours of sanding and filling to be done prior to
>paint.
>What an interesting lesson in experimenting; guess this is what EAA is
>all
>about.
>
>Anyway, the new wing tips gained about 5 MPH in cruise speed to 70,
>dropped
>the stall speed by about 3 MPH to 38 MPH and improved the climb rate
>by about
>400 FPM to 1000 FPM. Neither the climb nor the cruise speeds are
>improved as
>much as I had hoped, but the gain is worth the effort. The lesson
>learned is
>that Homer and Dennis did a GREAT job with the MKIII design. It will
>take a
>much better man than me to improve the performance of this airplane.
>
>With the flight testing completed and the lift performance improvement
>both
>on the same day, I can now take my wife for a ride; she has been
>"on-my-case"
>to get the 40 hour Phase I flight testing completed. Due to prior
>commitments, the big day for us won't be until Wednesday, May 12th.
>On
>Friday, May 14th., weather permitting, I'll fly to Palm Springs to see
>our
>Kolb-List friend "Big Lar."
>
>On serious problem remains; my icom handheld radio is too "puny" for
>effective communications beyond about 5 miles. This is bad news for
>flying
>in an area like Los Angeles. Do any of you guys know of an external
>12 volt
>power amplifier that could amplify the output of a handheld? Such a
>device
>would sure be great to have; this is a business opportunity for some
>clever
>soul.
>
>Thanks to all of you who provided encouragement and ideas during my
>wing tip
>saga. It was fun, but expensive and time consuming.
>
>Ron Christensen
>MKIII1/2
>N313DR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | phyllis(at)lind.net.by.cheryll.cs.fredonia.edu.with.SMTP (8.8.4/8.8.4) |
| Subject: | need nosecone for Kolb FirestarII |
FromName: Bill Burns
FromAddress: phyllis(at)lind.net
I am needing to replace the nosecone for my Kolb Firestar II. I also need the
left and right wingtip bows. I need to know where to order these and what the
prices are for them. If anyone could give me this information, please reply
to this email address: phyllis(at)lind.net. Bill Burns
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Last Update MKIII Performance |
you wrote> > On serious problem remains; my icom handheld radio is too "puny" for
> effective communications beyond about 5 miles. This is bad news for
flying
> in an area like Los Angeles. Do any of you guys know of an external 12
volt
> power amplifier that could amplify the output of a handheld? Such a
device
> would sure be great to have; this is a business opportunity for some
clever
> soul.
My guess is that it is your antenna rather than the ICOM radio. I am using
a delcom (289.00) in my firestar and it booms. With any altitude it is
straight line of sight and it should be good for much more than that.
Check the archives, there has been a lot of information about antennas.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Yates <johny(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: need nosecone for Kolb FirestarII |
"8.8.4/8.8.4" wrote:
>
> I am needing to replace the nosecone for my Kolb Firestar II. I also need the
left and right wingtip bows. I need to know where to order these and what the
prices are for them. If anyone could give me this information, please reply
to this email address: phyllis(at)lind.net. Bill Burns
Call 610-948-4136 Ask for Mike in the parts dept.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> (__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
> (oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
> /-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
> / | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
> * ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
>
could have been generated by anyone in the world.
> Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ...bent cage, one
wing repairable, the other is parts only (ruined spar), both ailerons
damaged, both horiz tail stabilizers with minor damaged. I'm still
semi-sick about it, not sure what I'll do. The hardest part will be
getting the cage repaired and straight again. Not sure I'll have what
it takes to want to rebuild.
I had flown a little Sat evening and experienced a very brief rough engine
after about 45 minutes of normal performance. I had just put the
Powerfin back on after trimming the tips, and therefore had to
consider the possibility of a prop/hub problem as well as the
engine. I had an em landing spot, but also, could probably glide
to the grass farm strip I occassionally use as my home base. I
landed there with the engine running fine, although I intentionally
came in at low power. On shutdown the prop/hub inspected fine.
Plugs fine, top of piston domes fine. Evidence of possible crack
on front exhaust manifold, but I don't know more about this yet
as it was getting dark at that point.
I parked and tethered the plane for the night, and brother
Jim came to get me. We could easily have brought my car/trailer, but
for incidental reasons didn't. I knew winds would come up again
overnight so did a good job tethering, or so I thought. I woke up
early Sunday, went to the field to trailer the plane home as I figured
this was a good time window before family Mother's day things. Got
to the field at 630am but decided against folding the plane, as I
would have been unable to control the wings by myself in the wind
(15-20+, Gusty). I rechecked the ropes, added another wheel chock
and went back home. 1.5 hours later Bill (farm owner) calls to
report it is upside down. The tie-down bolts are configured such
that the plane had to be facing into the wind. A strong gust lifted
the plane, snapping the tie-down ropes, flung the plane up and over,
against a strong steel-frame tractor cover about 75' away. My
tie-down ropes were in new condition, braided nylon 3/16". I'll
look at a similar package to see what the tensil rating is, just for
reference. I'm out of commission for at least a year.
-Ben 'sick at heart' Ransom
PS, trimming the Powerfin prop gave good results but I didn't get enf
data to comment much yet. I got static max rpm of 61-6200. The top
speed easily went up thru 75 and looked like it would keep going but
I backed off because of slightly bumpy air. I still felt like I
wasn't getting as good a cruise speed as the Warp, but didn't test
enf to know for sure.
Can't believe I'm pushing 'send' on this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
> substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ...bent cage, one
> wing repairable, the other is parts only (ruined spar), both ailerons
> damaged, both horiz tail stabilizers with minor damaged. I'm still
> semi-sick about it, not sure what I'll do. The hardest part will be
> getting the cage repaired and straight again. Not sure I'll have what
> it takes to want to rebuild.
Ben and Kolb Gang:
What can I say? I can certainly empathize with you, having
lost a brand new MK III. Yours was lost for the price of a
little stronger rope, mine because a 10 cent nylon tywrap
got pulled tight on a fuel line by someone only trying to
help. I try to remember that nothing on God's earth happens
by chance. The He has a reason for everything.
Our little airplanes are fragile when taken out of their
element. We live and play in an environment, air and
gravity, that is unforgiving and oft times fatal. I have to
be grateful even when situations like this occur to me that
seem devestating. I can always rebuild or build a new
airplane. Not always possible with our fragile lives and
bodies.
From Nov 92 to Apr 93, I built new wings, ailerons, flaps,
replaced all glass, repaired nose pod, and over 20 patches
in fuselage fabric. Didn't realize that sulphuric acid from
the battery had sprayed over the inside, then run down and
settled in the bottom of the fuselage, during and after my
crash. A lot of 4130 tubing and paint had to be cleaned,
primed and painted because I did not flush the acid off the
airplane. It had 8 months to do its damage.
It was not easy to get Miss P'fer repaired and flying again,
but I did it. Since then I am happy I persevered. She has
done well at air shows and we got to make a long dreamed of
flight. She is still flying strong today even though she
was only a split second from going to the scrap yard.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
Ben,
I'm really sorry to hear about this. I hope when things settle down, you'll
be able to get her rebuilt.
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 10:50 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Down
>
>Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
>substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ...bent cage, one
>wing repairable, the other is parts only (ruined spar), both ailerons
>damaged, both horiz tail stabilizers with minor damaged. I'm still
>semi-sick about it, not sure what I'll do. The hardest part will be
>getting the cage repaired and straight again. Not sure I'll have what
>it takes to want to rebuild.
>
>I had flown a little Sat evening and experienced a very brief rough engine
>after about 45 minutes of normal performance. I had just put the
>Powerfin back on after trimming the tips, and therefore had to
>consider the possibility of a prop/hub problem as well as the
>engine. I had an em landing spot, but also, could probably glide
>to the grass farm strip I occassionally use as my home base. I
>landed there with the engine running fine, although I intentionally
>came in at low power. On shutdown the prop/hub inspected fine.
>Plugs fine, top of piston domes fine. Evidence of possible crack
>on front exhaust manifold, but I don't know more about this yet
>as it was getting dark at that point.
>
>I parked and tethered the plane for the night, and brother
>Jim came to get me. We could easily have brought my car/trailer, but
>for incidental reasons didn't. I knew winds would come up again
>overnight so did a good job tethering, or so I thought. I woke up
>early Sunday, went to the field to trailer the plane home as I figured
>this was a good time window before family Mother's day things. Got
>to the field at 630am but decided against folding the plane, as I
>would have been unable to control the wings by myself in the wind
>(15-20+, Gusty). I rechecked the ropes, added another wheel chock
>and went back home. 1.5 hours later Bill (farm owner) calls to
>report it is upside down. The tie-down bolts are configured such
>that the plane had to be facing into the wind. A strong gust lifted
>the plane, snapping the tie-down ropes, flung the plane up and over,
>against a strong steel-frame tractor cover about 75' away. My
>tie-down ropes were in new condition, braided nylon 3/16". I'll
>look at a similar package to see what the tensil rating is, just for
>reference. I'm out of commission for at least a year.
>
>-Ben 'sick at heart' Ransom
>PS, trimming the Powerfin prop gave good results but I didn't get enf
>data to comment much yet. I got static max rpm of 61-6200. The top
>speed easily went up thru 75 and looked like it would keep going but
>I backed off because of slightly bumpy air. I still felt like I
>wasn't getting as good a cruise speed as the Warp, but didn't test
>enf to know for sure.
>
>Can't believe I'm pushing 'send' on this.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
Ben, I am sorry to hear that You must rebuild.My Aeronca champ , a
floatplane, sank in a lake once. the last winds of a hurricane got to
her and the big waves broke over the tops of the float hatches and sank
her 1 tablespoonful at a time.You,ve been robbed,but they didn't get
everything.If the plane was what you wanted,rebuild.Seat belts-I finally
got the phone no -Venture Chinchers,501-648-4987.Cindy is the maker, and
that is a voicemail .Tell her that Mike from Buckeye gave you the no, if
you think of it. Buckeye is very pleased with her stuff.So am I. I am
going to have her add 8 inches to the length of all my straps,on my next
set,though,as I have a few large friends.These belts make you feel that
you really are belted in,and the buckle is easy off.no stupid button.Do
not archive.Brave and strong, Ben.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
Sorry to hear it Ben. My Robertson B1-RD had the same thing happen but
with higher winds and more damage. Picture at
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc/page7.html I was not able to repair it.
The factory was on its way out of biz, and parts were hard to come by. Hope
you can get yours back in the air.
J.D. Stewart
NCF Communications, Inc.
http://www.ncfcomm.com
UltraFun Airsports
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
Challenger Owners e-mail list administrator
http://challenger.maverick.net
Northeast Nebraska Flying Club
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc
ICQ # 22494032
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Sudlow <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 11:48 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Down
>>
>>Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
>>substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ...bent cage, one
>>wing repairable, the other is parts only (ruined spar), both ailerons
>>damaged, both horiz tail stabilizers with minor damaged. I'm still
>>semi-sick about it, not sure what I'll do. The hardest part will be
>>getting the cage repaired and straight again. Not sure I'll have what
>>it takes to want to rebuild.
>>
>>I had flown a little Sat evening and experienced a very brief rough engine
>>after about 45 minutes of normal performance. I had just put the
>>Powerfin back on after trimming the tips, and therefore had to
>>consider the possibility of a prop/hub problem as well as the
>>engine. I had an em landing spot, but also, could probably glide
>>to the grass farm strip I occassionally use as my home base. I
>>landed there with the engine running fine, although I intentionally
>>came in at low power. On shutdown the prop/hub inspected fine.
>>Plugs fine, top of piston domes fine. Evidence of possible crack
>>on front exhaust manifold, but I don't know more about this yet
>>as it was getting dark at that point.
>>
>>I parked and tethered the plane for the night, and brother
>>Jim came to get me. We could easily have brought my car/trailer, but
>>for incidental reasons didn't. I knew winds would come up again
>>overnight so did a good job tethering, or so I thought. I woke up
>>early Sunday, went to the field to trailer the plane home as I figured
>>this was a good time window before family Mother's day things. Got
>>to the field at 630am but decided against folding the plane, as I
>>would have been unable to control the wings by myself in the wind
>>(15-20+, Gusty). I rechecked the ropes, added another wheel chock
>>and went back home. 1.5 hours later Bill (farm owner) calls to
>>report it is upside down. The tie-down bolts are configured such
>>that the plane had to be facing into the wind. A strong gust lifted
>>the plane, snapping the tie-down ropes, flung the plane up and over,
>>against a strong steel-frame tractor cover about 75' away. My
>>tie-down ropes were in new condition, braided nylon 3/16". I'll
>>look at a similar package to see what the tensil rating is, just for
>>reference. I'm out of commission for at least a year.
>>
>>-Ben 'sick at heart' Ransom
>>PS, trimming the Powerfin prop gave good results but I didn't get enf
>>data to comment much yet. I got static max rpm of 61-6200. The top
>>speed easily went up thru 75 and looked like it would keep going but
>>I backed off because of slightly bumpy air. I still felt like I
>>wasn't getting as good a cruise speed as the Warp, but didn't test
>>enf to know for sure.
>>
>>Can't believe I'm pushing 'send' on this.
>>
>>
>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
>
>Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
>substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ...bent cage,
Ben,
Please start planning *today* on how you will get her in the air again !!
You AND the fellows on this list cant see you grounded for very long....
you BELONG flying!!!
I ironically had my 1st flight Mother's day after about 6 months grounded
from my wind damage (I was the idiot who didnt even tie it down when mine
flipped!). It was difficult during that down period... but as I look back I
now realize that it was only TIME that stood between me and flying again....
cuz I worked and saved towards that end.
I ended up having the cage and wing rebuilt by KOLB which left me with
painting and reassembly, due to my on the road work schedule. I simply
crated the the thing and shipped it off... then picked it up in person
because the trucking company gave me heartburn (and Im being kind). There, I
met a gentleman - John Yates who was in charge of the rebuild (and now in
charge of the New Kolb company). They got the jigs and wherewithall to
straighten cages and reweld if necessary.
So my point is...... (and advice is often valued at the price you pay for
it!) is to ship that cage of yours back to John Yates and see if you can
repair your wing before it comes back!! What a challenge! And they can
also send you a partial or full parts kit for that wing, if you need!
Very sorry about your mishap, tho. Curious about the estimate of force on
those tie down ropes when you determine this..
I hope you will remain active on this list...
Jon
(near Greenbay, in the air again!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
That's terrible news, Ben. Hang in there & good luck. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 1999 9:51 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Down
>
> Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
> substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ...bent cage, one
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bil Ragsdale" <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
Ben, I feel for you. I've gone through your pictures and read your words
about flying. I know my words are no consolation for your loss, but I hope
you feel someone out there shares your love for flying and sympathizes with
you.
I hope things work out so that you get back in the air soon.
Thanks, Bil
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 10:50 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Down
>
>Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
>substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ...bent cage, one
>wing repairable, the other is parts only (ruined spar), both ailerons
>damaged, both horiz tail stabilizers with minor damaged. I'm still
>semi-sick about it, not sure what I'll do. The hardest part will be
>getting the cage repaired and straight again. Not sure I'll have what
>it takes to want to rebuild.
>
>I had flown a little Sat evening and experienced a very brief rough engine
>after about 45 minutes of normal performance. I had just put the
>Powerfin back on after trimming the tips, and therefore had to
>consider the possibility of a prop/hub problem as well as the
>engine. I had an em landing spot, but also, could probably glide
>to the grass farm strip I occassionally use as my home base. I
>landed there with the engine running fine, although I intentionally
>came in at low power. On shutdown the prop/hub inspected fine.
>Plugs fine, top of piston domes fine. Evidence of possible crack
>on front exhaust manifold, but I don't know more about this yet
>as it was getting dark at that point.
>
>I parked and tethered the plane for the night, and brother
>Jim came to get me. We could easily have brought my car/trailer, but
>for incidental reasons didn't. I knew winds would come up again
>overnight so did a good job tethering, or so I thought. I woke up
>early Sunday, went to the field to trailer the plane home as I figured
>this was a good time window before family Mother's day things. Got
>to the field at 630am but decided against folding the plane, as I
>would have been unable to control the wings by myself in the wind
>(15-20+, Gusty). I rechecked the ropes, added another wheel chock
>and went back home. 1.5 hours later Bill (farm owner) calls to
>report it is upside down. The tie-down bolts are configured such
>that the plane had to be facing into the wind. A strong gust lifted
>the plane, snapping the tie-down ropes, flung the plane up and over,
>against a strong steel-frame tractor cover about 75' away. My
>tie-down ropes were in new condition, braided nylon 3/16". I'll
>look at a similar package to see what the tensil rating is, just for
>reference. I'm out of commission for at least a year.
>
>-Ben 'sick at heart' Ransom
>PS, trimming the Powerfin prop gave good results but I didn't get enf
>data to comment much yet. I got static max rpm of 61-6200. The top
>speed easily went up thru 75 and looked like it would keep going but
>I backed off because of slightly bumpy air. I still felt like I
>wasn't getting as good a cruise speed as the Warp, but didn't test
>enf to know for sure.
>
>Can't believe I'm pushing 'send' on this.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AnvilGil(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/09/99 |
I have the opprortunity to but a Firestar II , it is new never flown, just
taxi tested.
Question, can one be legally made in to a single seat??
Thank you for anticipated replies,
Regards,
Gil Watkins
2721 Riverside Drive
St Albans, WV 25177-3314
Email: Anvilgil(at)aol.com
"You dont stop playing because you are old,
You are old because you have stopped playing."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Ben,
Oh Gosh I'm feeling your pain Ben! I would be very sick too. I'm so
sorry to hear that sad news. You will rebuild or get a new kit. Your an
engineer making the big bucks and you will get a new one again. You did
it once, you can do it again and better the second time around because
now you know exactly what to do.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
writes:
>
>Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs
>and
>substantially damaged.
>-Ben 'sick at heart' Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
Ben,
I'm SINCERELY sorry to hear of your misfortune!
>My
>tie-down ropes were in new condition, braided nylon 3/16". I'll
>look at a similar package to see what the tensil rating is, just for
>reference. I'm out of commission for at least a year.
Maybe ... there is a lesson here to be learned by all of us ........ ?
There is NO WAY that I'd tie down my Swift with 3/16" nylon
cable. Why? 3/16th nylon cable, regardless of its supposedly tensile
strength is just not strong enough. My Swift has a much smaller wing than
the Kolb and develops quite a bit less lift per mph wind over the
surface. Just because the Kolb aircraft doesn't weigh much doesn't mean
the wing won't develop lift. My point being that a Kolb should be tied
down with just as much, OR MORE, care as any other general aviation A/C.
Ben, I know that you (and your brother) understand what I have just
written. I only hope that others might benefit from your
misfortune. Skimping on tie-downs, or tie-down stakes, just isn't worth it.
Just think of the fun that you'll have during the rebuild process.
Regards,
Skip
1984 UltraStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/09/99 |
In a message dated 5/10/99 7:52:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, AnvilGil(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I have the opprortunity to but a Firestar II , it is new never flown, just
taxi tested.
Question, can one be legally made in to a single seat? >>
Of course it can-just remove the second seat and seat belt. I hung a cheap
back-pack from the place the seat hung from. Fantastic U/L!
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Perry" <perryr(at)123.net> |
Truly sorry to hear about this. I hope you'll get her repaired and flying
soon!!!
Rob Perry
1984 Kolb Ultrastar
http://mula.perrydice.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Especially for Ralph Burlingame, but others comments welcome:
Ralph,
I notice that you sign off as having a Rotax 447 on your Original Firestar.
I am interested in knowing what kind of performance change you experienced.
Assuming the climb rate increased some. What about cruise? What prop are
you using and what static RPM?
I have 360 hours on my Rotax 377 and am thinking maybe replacing it with a
447.
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ
Original FireStar 377
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ... >>
Ben,
Sorry to hear of your misfortune. Take a few days off and do some other
things. After awhile you'll tire of doing the other stuff and the flying bug
will bite you again. Then you'll have renewed strength to go back and
rebuild that KOLB.
Bill Varnes
Audubon, NJ
Original FireStar 377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
>
> Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
> substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ...
-------------------------------
Sorry to hear the bad news, Ben. I, too, have drawn inspiration and
encouragement from seeing your pictures and reading all the good advice
you've been giving folks on this Kolb List. But know that you are not
alone in this kind of dilema, and your perseverance will eventually pay
off. I once had a forced landing in my TriPacer in 1991 in Arizona.
The damage to your Firestar you describe is similar to what I
encountered - damaged wing, nose & fuselage damage, etc. My TriPacer
flipped onto its back in that rough country, but we were okay. Took me
2 and a half years (including MANY hours of my time) to get that ol'
bird flying again, but if you ask me if it was worth the time & effort,
my answer is yes. I know reading stuff like this story from people you
don't know offers little solace to you now, but I'm sure you'll come
around to the right decision on what to do about your Firestar (rebuild
or build new). [Incidentally, when my partner and I sold that TriPacer,
I bought the Mark-3 I'm presently building with my half of the money.
Best move I made!] Good Luck!
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
Half-Finished building a Mark-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hale" <AccessToData(at)email.msn.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 8:49 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Down
>
>Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
>substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ...bent cage, one
>wing repairable, the other is parts only (ruined spar), both ailerons
>damaged, both horiz tail stabilizers with minor damaged. I'm still
>semi-sick about it, not sure what I'll do. The hardest part will be
>getting the cage repaired and straight again. Not sure I'll have what
>it takes to want to rebuild.
Ben,
I just read your post and am in shock. I know how much your plane means to
you and how much you enjoy flying. If there is anything I can do, let me
know. Please rebuild, I have a feeling that you will.
Brian Hale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
From the net:
MANILA ROPE
Diameter in Inches When Used Straight 30 Degrees 45 Degrees 60 Degrees
1/2 530 460
370 270
NYLON ROPE
Nylon rope stretches appreciably when loaded and high elastic recovery when
the load is released. In some instances stretch and working elasticity might
be desirable and in other instances those characteristics might be
undesirable.
Because of the high energy absorption of nylon rope it can sustain somewhat
higher working loads than hard fibre rope. However, the customary and
coservative safety factor of 5 to 1 is recommended for determining safe
working load.
Diameter in Inches Minimum Tensile Strength in Pounds Safe
Working Loads
1/4 1,220
244
5/16 1,900
380
3/8 2,700
540
7/16 3,650
730
1/2 4,800
960
9/16 6,000
1,200
5/8 7,450
1,490
3/4 10,600
2,120
Using these two sets of data I put a rough guess at the breaking strenghth
of 3/16 inch nylon when wrapped around a tight corner and tied in a knot at
under 400 pounds and the safe working strenghth at under 150 pounds.
If we use two strands of this to hold down a kolb that can lift 750 pounds
at stall speed then I think you see that the rope doesnt have much of a
chance in stall speed level winds. The gusting wind can maybe put 3 g's of
lift on the ropes so you need 2250 pounds of strength between your 2
tiedowns which would mean 5/16" rope with no angles or margin of safety.
with angles (knots) and a margin of safety I would want 5/8 inch at least
for a high wind situation.
Informative I hope, sorry it isnt helpful for Ben.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Swihart" <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
Ben, Sorry to hear about your plane. Need
a hand with putting her back together?
Gimme a yell....I'll help ya. I'm down the
road from ya....
-Mark-
Bradley, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Hale <AccessToData(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Down
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 8:49 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Down
>
>
> >
> >Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
> >substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ...bent cage, one
> >wing repairable, the other is parts only (ruined spar), both ailerons
> >damaged, both horiz tail stabilizers with minor damaged. I'm still
> >semi-sick about it, not sure what I'll do. The hardest part will be
> >getting the cage repaired and straight again. Not sure I'll have what
> >it takes to want to rebuild.
>
>
> Ben,
>
> I just read your post and am in shock. I know how much your plane means
to
> you and how much you enjoy flying. If there is anything I can do, let me
> know. Please rebuild, I have a feeling that you will.
>
> Brian Hale
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/09/99 |
Gil,
No, a Firestar II cannot be a "legal" ultralight. But many people
are flying them as ultralights, anyway. Their thinking is that if they
have only one seat and one 5 gallon fuel tank, no one will bother them.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
>AnvilGil(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I have the opprortunity to but a Firestar II , it is new never flown, just
> taxi tested.
> Question, can one be legally made in to a single seat??
> Thank you for anticipated replies,
> Regards,
> Gil Watkins
> 2721 Riverside Drive
> St Albans, WV 25177-3314
> Email: Anvilgil(at)aol.com
> "You dont stop playing because you are old,
> You are old because you have stopped playing."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/10/99 |
Have a firestar with 447 with after muffler. After muffler was installed on
377 a year ago and I really don't think it makes it quieter but the concept
of changing the tuning of the eco sounds ok. My question is has anyone
compared 447 with and without after muffler for difference. Was told it
needed jet change and was bad for it and all sorts of things. Anyone got any
comments. Need imput!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Geezer810(at)aol.com |
Dennis,
I just installed an antenna in my MKIII yesterday. (Rather I had a friend
who is an A&P do it.) He had a used comm antenna which we utilized. It is
installed under the nose cone beside the skid protector. He used a 5" x 5"
piece of aluminum inside and out for a ground plane as well as to strengthen
the installation.
The weather was crummy so did not have a chance to try the installation at
altitude, but it seemed to work great on the ground. Will find out about
engine noise when the weather clears and I can get airborne again.
Good Luck.
Harry Wingert
Papillion, NE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
Harry Wingart wrote:
He used a 5" x 5"
piece of aluminum inside and out for a ground plane
I assume This was because he was mounting on fibergalss. SO if I was to
mount an external antenna on the boom/tail tube via a metal bracket riveted
to the tube I would have an adequate ground plane?
Is my novice thinking correct here?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Old Controller's Rant |
bob n wrote:
> Aviation Digest 6/93
> Clearance Change
>
> Easy IFR to Atlantic City, just before Reagans Controller Job Action.
> -----------------------------------------------------
> -----------------------------------------------------
> And I have a few more! Grey ( FireFlying now) Baron
Hello Grey Baron,
I don't know about the others on this list, however, I found the humor
in this story quite refreshing... Rather makes me glad I moved from our
local airport to the "cow-pasture" I now fly from.
I for one would gladly welcome more story's like this.
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
Ben:
I too am extremely sorry to hear about your misfortune. I'm sure we've all
spent sleepless nights worrying about our planes tied down somewhere. Being
fairly new to the list I am impressed with all the e-mail you are receiving.
Wanted you to know I have used 3/16" nylon tie downs occasionally. Your
experience might have saved my plane from the same misfortune. Thanks for
sharing. Hope you rebuild. The task may seem overwhelming now but when
you're finished you'll probably look back on the effort without regret.
Steve Anderson
South Dakota
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
Kind of a late response to the rudder cable issue but thought I would throw
my two cents (probably what it's worth) in. The slapping of the control
cables in the boom tube has always bothered me in my Firestar. I obtained
some dense waxy type two inch thick foam and made two circular foam blocks
the diameter to fit tightly in the boom tube. Then drilled (4) 3/4" holes in
each block and threaded the cables thru the holes and slid the foam blocks
into the boom tube. It keeps my cables straight and they do not slap the
inside of the tube anymore. I cannot feel any difference in the control
stick movement. They have not moved position after four flights and feel
they are probably in place to stay. It will also help keep debris from
getting inside the tube.
Steve Anderson
SD
________________________________________________________________________________
Have noticed there seems to be some disagreement with the rudder cables
crossing or not. I have a Firestar KXP that I built in 1990 and clearly the
rudder cables do not cross. The left rudder pedal pulls the cable that runs
directly to the left side of the rudder. The right the same. Neither cross
nor do they cross the elevator cables.
Maybe the newer models are different.
Steve Anderson
SD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Old Controller's Rant |
Attitude of some controllers is sometimes influenced by WHAT you are flying
rather than perceived pilot proficiency in working the ATC system. Had a bit
of that a couple weeks ago on my first flight on my MK-3 out of an airport
that I have flown the 737 in and out of for many years?
I was cleared on the parallel to an intersection for departure which
necessitated crossing an intersection that a landing DC-9 would require.
Sensing that my slow taxi might delay the "9"s exit, I queried the controller
if they would like me to hold short to let the "9" clear. A brusque response
to "taxi the way you were cleared" followed in a tone I would reserve for an
errant child.
Vast majority of controllers are real pros who would never exercise their
vast power over a little tiny airplane.
Bill George
Mk-3 582 Ivo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/09/99 |
John Jung wrote:
>
>
> Gil,
>
> No, a Firestar II cannot be a "legal" ultralight. But many people
> are flying them as ultralights, anyway. Their thinking is that if they
> have only one seat and one 5 gallon fuel tank, no one will bother them.
>
> John Jung
Which is true if you don't do anything stupid or annoying.
--
***********************************************
* Bill Weber * Keep *
* Voiceboard Corp * the shiny *
* Simi Valley, CA * side up *
***********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Dzus fastners and gap seal? |
From: STAECS(at)aol.com
Full-name: STAECS
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:36:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Dzus fastners and gap seal?
Erich:
The Dzus type fastners I used for my wing gap seal have proven over the years
to be a very quick and simple solution for the attachment and removal of the
wing gap. I used lexan so I could see overhead. Dzus fastners are available
from any aviation catalog supplier. I attached mine to the inside of the
inner wing ribs then drilled the lexan holes to match. They have lasted for
over 400 hours of flight (that's about 400 removals of the gap seal) without
a problem. It looks clean and neat and does not stress your fabric the way
Velcro does.
Steve Anderson
SD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
Thank you everyone for your thoughts and condolences. It has
helped a lot. Work is a good distraction too, but I go home and
walk thru the garage; I don't even want to look at it.
As you all know, I'll get over it with time, and decide what
to do. Gotta count the lucky side of things too -- no other
property damaged, nobody hurt. Obviously that would be far
far worse. I'm at a bit of a cross-roads anyway, in that I
could probably pass an FAA medical now due to some truely good
luck in my last 2 years. Even thinking about the possibility
of moving on to other aircraft though, there are a couple things
I can't easily imagine doing without:
-- landing on those Sacramento River gravel bars + salmon fishing
-- big ol wing-overs (Big)
-- hard-stick yankin and bankin thru low hills
-- landing out in Gods Green Middle of Nowhere
Hard to picture getting away with that in any other aircraft.
You are a great bunch. I'll certainly keep on the list but
maybe quiet down just a bit.
Thanks again.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One guy who's worse-off than Ben... |
> I can't tell, is that an N-number on the tail in the photo?
I think it is part of the "Chinook" logo.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Last Update MKIII Performance |
Rick: You posted the following message:
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Ron, do you have an external ant. on your radio? If not, that will improve
your
range more than an amp.and lots cheaper too.
Rick Webb
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi Rick:
Yes, I do have an external VHF airplane antenna located at the front base of
the vertical stabilizer. The coax feeds through the fuselage tube. Tomorrow
I'm going to try using the radio with the rubber duck; who knows, it may
actually improve communications. Thanks for your thoughts & comments.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
N313DR
________________________________________________________________________________
Tom Kuffel wrote - quote:
Congratulations on your successful "restoration". Just one word of
caution. You might want to check with the FAA about your wing tip
experiments. They tend to think of *any* change to the aerodynamics of
an airplane as a "major modification" requiring their seal of approval.
Just a short note to them describing your change and the resulting
performance may be enough. Or they may require some more test time.
Unquote.
==================================
Tom:
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS EXCELLENT ADVISE. I called the FAA and as you
suspected, they want to understand the change from the wing tips that were on
the airplane when the air worthiness certificate was granted last fall. As a
result, I have faxed a letter to them asking for a ruling on the new wing
tips.
You have saved me from a potential disaster and violation of the regulations.
The FAA inspector's initial thinking is that he will require an additional
10 hours of Phase I flight testing. This is a big disappointment to my wife
our first flight together will be postponed.
Thankfully,
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
N313DR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us> |
Hi Ben
You hit the nail on the head with the yankin and bankin and the sand
bars. No one can make up your mind for ya but you did have somethin to
do with my gettin into u/l's and a Firestar. You probably don't remember
that last year, just about this time. I was gettin ready to buy my
Firestar. I would go to your site and look at the photos and put myself
behind the stick. Just couldn't wait till I could pasture hop. You even
called me, all the way to Pa. to talk to me about the plane and give me
some pointers. Unfortunatly I had already left but the thought was
there. You don't know how much I appreciated you takein the time to give
me a hand. You are one of the guy's I look for on the list and make sure
I read your post. I hope you stay in ultralighting and with your Kolb,
but ya gotta do what's right for you. Ultralighting can offer a lot that
GA can't for me. I love flyin out of little grass strips and flyin by
the seat of my pants. I love not bein told what to do and where to do
it. Of course within the few restrictions. Ultralighting for me is
affordable, fun and gives be a freedom I love.
I wish you luck in whatever you decide, and hope you stay in ultralighting.
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
gthacker(at)mciu.org
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
dwegner(at)isd.net
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Hi Bill,
I'm very satisfied with the 447 on the Original FireStar. The climb rate
improved even more, but I have not measured it. The most significant
change was the lower RPM for the same cruise of 58mph at 5800rpm for the
377 and 5100rpm for the 447. My brother on the ground says that the 447
sounds more "airplane- like" than the 377. I suppose it's the lower rpm
and more bite in the prop. The burn rate is about the same with the lower
RPM's. Takeoff roll is a little less too.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
>
>Especially for Ralph Burlingame, but others comments welcome:
>
>Ralph,
>
>I notice that you sign off as having a Rotax 447 on your Original
>Firestar.
>I am interested in knowing what kind of performance change you
>experienced.
>Assuming the climb rate increased some. What about cruise? What prop
>are
>you using and what static RPM?
>
>I have 360 hours on my Rotax 377 and am thinking maybe replacing it
>with a
>447.
>
>Bill Varnes
>Audubon NJ
>Original FireStar 377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | EAA Breakfast fly in |
How about a visit to beautiful Lancaster County PA.
The local EAA chapter is having their annual breakfast fly-in at
Smoketown Airport, the home of my Mark III, on May 30, rain date May
31. There are several Experimental aircraft based at Smoketown. A
Lancair that I share hanger space with, a Rotoway helicopter, a
Velocity that is almost finished, a Firestar, a Fisher bi-plane, an Avid
flyer. There is another local fellow with a Ultrastar and friend of
mine has a Bacon Duce close by. I know, I mixed in some ultralites, but
they're all homebuilts.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
Tha crashed plane with the tail markings that seem to start with the
letter C is a chinook, the pod fuel tank is visible. A spiral decent?
First real flight?I don't believe that is an ultralite.I told the
Galaxcy chute dealer that I would buy a chute from him if the mounting
was all worked out for my 3, nothing yet. I must say I really like the
way the 3 squirts out when the throttle goes ahead.Now that the fog is
gone, its blowing 15-25 nw. Maybe tomorrow morn bright and early. One
kolb goes down, hopefully one will go up.Its true that the plane type
you operate ,wherever, determines how some people talk to you.All the
best.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Well now, Ben: You don't want to quiet down too much. We all
thoroughly enjoy your input. Always well reasoned and thoughtful.
Hopefully one day soon, ( maybe sooner than you think ) you'll be walking
through that garage, look at it one more time, get irked, or curious about
some little thing or other, start pulling at fabric, or twisting at metal,
and before you know it, you'll be hard at it, and the healing will have
begun. Keep in mind, Pal, if I wind up carrying one Mk III to Castle this
year, you DON'T get out of it that easy if yours isn't flying. Hah ! ! !
Pick on me, willya ?? Big Lar.
P.S. - I'm starting to get a little concerned. At the rate I'm going, or
maybe the better expression might be - Not Going - it's going to be tough to
finish by Sept. Might wind up carrying that thing up there after all.
Ouch.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 2:49 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Down
>
> Thank you everyone for your thoughts and condolences. It has
> helped a lot. Work is a good distraction too, but I go home and
> walk thru the garage; I don't even want to look at it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
> The slapping of the control
> cables in the boom tube has always bothered me in my Firestar.
Only half-a-cents worth from me........
Cured the slap by machining two support blocks with split caps
that clamp over the cross tube under the scond seat position.
Placed four more cable pulleys on a bolt between the two blocks
(with suitable cable capture cap on top of pulleys to prevent cable
from jumping the groove). The cables now run under the original
pulleys and then transition up over the top of the second, more
rearward set of pulleys. No nylon blocks, no rubbing, no
slapping...clean and straight.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Old Controller's Rant |
I'm a ranting old controller from USAF, so here's one of mine.
Guy working local control has three birds in the pattern: a flight of
four F-106s, a C-130 and a T-29 VIP bird way out on final for Rwy
25 at Langley Field (Yeah, you might think it's AFB, but we always
called it Field just like yer supposed to....).
So happens the controller is deathly afraid of bees, and since it
was a nice day, the door to the tower catwalk was open and one
had found it's way into the cab. Between transmissions he would
swat at the bee and continue to control traffic...sort of. Cleared the
F-106s to land out of the overhead break, told the C-130 to extend
upwind two miles, number two to follow VIP T-29 at 9 mile final. T-
29 is making an ILS and is sent over to the local controller's
frequency at 7 miles. Unfortunately, just as the T-29 came up on
freq, the bee made a run for the controller. Said controller issued
traffic of last F-106 base to final two miles, wind and landing
clearance to the T-29 and in his fear, kept the PTT depressed,
mike in one hand and rolled newspaper in the other, said very
clearly "Now watch me kill that Sonova B!"
F-106 lands, C-130 departs traffic to the northwest and T-29 says
he's going around.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Approvals |
Ron, that's good news, and it's bad news. How will this affect your visit
Friday ?? Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RLCPTL(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 3:46 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: FAA Approvals
>
> Tom Kuffel wrote - quote:
> Congratulations on your successful "restoration". Just one word of
> caution. You might want to check with the FAA about your wing tip
> Unquote.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/11/99 5:49:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bransom(at)ucdavis.edu writes:
<< Even thinking about the possibility
of moving on to other aircraft though, there are a couple things
I can't easily imagine doing without:
-- landing on those Sacramento River gravel bars + salmon fishing
-- big ol wing-overs (Big)
-- hard-stick yankin and bankin thru low hills
-- landing out in Gods Green Middle of Nowhere
Hard to picture getting away with that in any other aircraft.
You are a great bunch. I'll certainly keep on the list but
maybe quiet down just a bit.
Thanks again.
-Ben Ransom >>
Been there done that pal.....I know the taste of bitter defeat at the hand of
God!!!....while washing my firestar in spite of the obvious relentless
mezmerizing approach of a gale wind bearing down on my peaceful "washing"
pleasantville scene!....Bang! the wind that I watched turn the distant tree
leaves proud with flipped lighter colored green was upon me and raised my
wing (I was on the opposite side with rag in hand)!!
up went the wing about 4 feet so I pulled down on the opposite strut and was
relieved that the opposite wing lowered a good 2 feet. Then God said...hey,
quit interferring with my excersise today and ....blew harder!!
up went my wing, mercilessly, I might add, even to the point that I had to
ask myself as I noticed my feet were 5 feet off the ground and I could feel
the terrible crumbling of my wing tip as it was forced into the ground....Am
I holding this plane down....or is it pulling me up??
The answer was obvious, so I let go, fell to the ground and let it fall over
on its back.....breaking the prop, (that's why I upgraded to an Ivo 3 blade),
breaking the fin and part of the horiz stab and both wingtips!
So, I went into the hangar, and just sat there looking at it....seemingly in
its dying throes, as the blood of airplane life...gasoline .... drained out
on to the ground.
To make a longer story shorter.....my grieving period lasted 2 weeks....I
inspected the wing spars for any undue modification, saw none and was flying
again in a month.
Don't hang it up pal....you just had the WIND knocked out of you.
Wish you the best....and I mean it!.........................GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b.charlton" <bambo(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Aileron Bolt failure |
I just talked to a Twinstar Mk 2 owner in New Zealand, he had a failure
of one of the aileron control bolts, this removed all aileron control. a
Airworthiness Directive has been issued in New Zealand grounding these
aircraft until this bolt has been replaced, anybody know anything about
this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bolt failure |
-----Original Message-----
From: b.charlton <bambo(at)xtra.co.nz>
Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 4:17 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Aileron Bolt failure
>
>I just talked to a Twinstar Mk 2 owner in New Zealand, he had a failure
>of one of the aileron control bolts, this removed all aileron control. a
>Airworthiness Directive has been issued in New Zealand grounding these
>aircraft until this bolt has been replaced, anybody know anything about
>this?
A few weeks ago a small package arrived from Kolb - a U shaped bracket to be
installed to reinforce the aileron bell crank assy. Glad I've "registered"
my orphaned Mk II with Kolb! Now I get to put my first rivets in my
new-to-me Mk II. Think this will qualify me as 51% builder? ;-)
David (Mk II in Kingston, NY) Bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Carrying to Castle AFB |
Hey thanks Big Lar,
Chances are, I'll probably be there, via ground. Would be fun
to hook up however you might get there too. By Sept you'll be
95% complete, 50% to go. :)
-Ben
>P.S. - I'm starting to get a little concerned. At the rate I'm going, or
>maybe the better expression might be - Not Going - it's going to be tough to
>finish by Sept. Might wind up carrying that thing up there after all.
>Ouch.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Modified wing tips |
Ron, if you state that the original tips on your plane were modified and
that the wing tips you have now are built to plans (designers
specifications, with hundreds of like wing tips currently flying), the
FAA might let you pass on the fly off time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bolt failure |
In a message dated 5/12/99 2:42:36 AM Central Daylight Time, bambo(at)xtra.co.nz
writes:
> ust talked to a Twinstar Mk 2 owner in New Zealand, he had a failure
> of one of the aileron control bolts, this removed all aileron control. a
> Airworthiness Directive has been issued in New Zealand grounding these
> aircraft until this bolt has been replaced, anybody know anything about
> this?
>
Yes...I just received parts for a modification to the aileron control system
from Kolb (in Pennsylvania) as I am sure all of the owners of Mk2s have.
Like all the previous mods on Mk2s....it's ingeniously simple. I can only
hope that "the NEW Kolb Company" has even half the "right stuff" that Homer
and his troop had.
Steve (missing Homer already) Kroll Mk2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bolt failure |
Does this bolt apply to MK3's as well?
Rick Webb
-----Original Message-----
From: N51SK(at)aol.com <N51SK(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Aileron Bolt failure
>
>In a message dated 5/12/99 2:42:36 AM Central Daylight Time,
bambo(at)xtra.co.nz
>writes:
>
>> ust talked to a Twinstar Mk 2 owner in New Zealand, he had a failure
>> of one of the aileron control bolts, this removed all aileron control. a
>> Airworthiness Directive has been issued in New Zealand grounding these
>> aircraft until this bolt has been replaced, anybody know anything about
>> this?
>>
>Yes...I just received parts for a modification to the aileron control
system
>from Kolb (in Pennsylvania) as I am sure all of the owners of Mk2s have.
>Like all the previous mods on Mk2s....it's ingeniously simple. I can only
>hope that "the NEW Kolb Company" has even half the "right stuff" that Homer
>and his troop had.
>
>Steve (missing Homer already) Kroll Mk2
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bolt failure |
In a message dated 5/12/99 5:26:59 AM Central Daylight Time, brunerd(at)hvi.net
writes:
> Think this will qualify me as 51% builder? ;-)
>
not a chance Dave....but hey...does it matter that much to you? :)
Speaking of ingenious mods.....anybody remember the mod to the far inside
wing rib (chromoly) that Homer made after somebody was goofy enough to fly
his no instrument Kolb into a cloud and get disoriented and bend the square
support tube for the main wing tang fitting? Those of you who received that
mod have got to realize just how brilliant Homer really is. And then there
is the dedication of Dennis Souder. Some of you know this already but Dennis
flew an Ultrastar to distruction once just to see where it's weak points
might be.
After a high speed dive and an abrupt pullup calculated at about 8 gs
(correct me if I'm wrong here Dennis) the drag spar bent out of column and
the wing folded up and Dennis and the airplane parachuted safely to earth.
Then, the part that failed was upgraded!!!!
The point I'm trying to make here is that Kolb Company designed and built an
incredibly strong airplane capable of far exceeding the modest g-load
specifications that Homer placed on the aircraft. I'm not suggesting that it
would be wise to exceed those specifications but it sure feels good to this
builder/pilot to know that it will if necessary.
Steve Kroll Mk2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Ok Ben you had the wind knocked out of you. Time to pick yourself up,
shake yourself off and get on with it. You built the whole thing once now
you just have to make a few more parts again. You get to enjoy the coving
process again. You get to correct any mistakes you made the last time. You
can add mods you wish you had thought of the first time around. This could
be a continuation of the joy of building (if you liked it the first time).
Did I send you a photo of my crashed Flyer? After putting the pieces in a
hanger and a visit to the hospital I ordered the parts for it the same
night. Dennis was more than happy to sell me the parts. Not to happy about
the incident sice he and Homer had made me their first dealer the week
before. The point of the story is life goes on and aeroplane building is
fun. Go for it!!!!
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Old Controller's Rant |
Hi Jim and Kolbers,
I am a Controller from Iceland, and thank you for this great joke.
I have not experianced anything like this, because this job is
most often very strict in what can go in the air and what not.
For that reason, the joke is much funnyer.
Sometimes we at Keflavikairport get a stuck mic on the ramp frequency,
used to control the vehicular traffic on the airport. The reason is that we
use a headphone system with a push to talk switch by your waist, and when
sitting
down, the button sometimesgets pressed. This transmitts all the
conversations between
the controllers at their "highly intelligent conversation" about nothing,
or even worse,
about someone.
The Fire department guys give us a call after a wile, if the conversation
is not
interesting, and let us know that we have a stuck mic on the ramp freq.
Most often the lucky controller blushes and feels like an asshole for some
time.
Ben, I am aslo so sorry for your damaged Kolb. I wish I could offer you
some help,
but the distance may be too much. But if you plan on going to Europe this
summer, plan
on stopping by in Iceland, and you may fly my Firestar during your stay.
Hope you will get the urge to start tearing down a wing and evaluate what
has to be done.
One thin at a time. Go for is..
Best regards from Iceland.
Johann G.
>
>
>I'm a ranting old controller from USAF, so here's one of mine.
>
>Guy working local control has three birds in the pattern: a flight of
>four F-106s, a C-130 and a T-29 VIP bird way out on final for Rwy
>25 at Langley Field (Yeah, you might think it's AFB, but we always
>called it Field just like yer supposed to....).
>
>So happens the controller is deathly afraid of bees, and since it
>was a nice day, the door to the tower catwalk was open and one
>had found it's way into the cab. Between transmissions he would
>swat at the bee and continue to control traffic...sort of. Cleared the
>F-106s to land out of the overhead break, told the C-130 to extend
>upwind two miles, number two to follow VIP T-29 at 9 mile final. T-
>29 is making an ILS and is sent over to the local controller's
>frequency at 7 miles. Unfortunately, just as the T-29 came up on
>freq, the bee made a run for the controller. Said controller issued
>traffic of last F-106 base to final two miles, wind and landing
>clearance to the T-29 and in his fear, kept the PTT depressed,
>mike in one hand and rolled newspaper in the other, said very
>clearly "Now watch me kill that Sonova B!"
>
>F-106 lands, C-130 departs traffic to the northwest and T-29 says
>he's going around.
>
>
>J. Baker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "curtis" <cwest(at)lvdi.net> |
> Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs and
> substantially damaged.
Ben,
Sorry to hear of your misfortune. Please, don't give it up.. Rebuild her.
All of your photo's and many of your post's have found a permanent home on
my HD.
curtis
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 5/12/99 12:34:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dormel(at)means.net writes:
<< kolb-list(at)matronics.com >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Air Speed Indic Static Port |
I know I have seen info on this subject on the list before but I would like
to utilize any recent experience available.
I recently installed a full cockpit enclosure on my Firefly and everything is
great except that the ASI reads reads 10 to 15 mph high when I am flying at
50 mph according to my GPS. I am sure that the open back of the enclosure is
causing a vacuum to form in the cockpit at higher speeds. I placed a static
port just aft of the nose cone utilizing one of the windshield mounting tabs.
No joy. The problem is still there and I would like to know if anyone else
has solved it before I take another guess at where the port should be. A
contributing factor to this failure may be that I used 1/8" ID tubing to the
port when the pitot tubing is 1/4th". It would seem that at a constant speed
all pressures would stabilize and the diaphram movement in the ASI would
still convey an acceptably accurate reading.
One of the local airmen commented that a vacuum means more drag and that when
an enclosure is added on the drag on the sides of the pod aft of the cockpit
may cause the plane to be more susceptable to yawing in flight. He compared
adding the enclosure to adding feathers to the front of an arrow. Hmmm... I
did notice that it was a little harder to keep on track during approaches and
the stall speed seemed to be higher. I won't really know untill I re-esablish
confidence in the AIS.
Bombs away !!!
Duane Mitchell in Tallahassee
PS EAA Chapter 445 will have it's annual fly-in at the Quincey, FL airport
this Saturday 5/15/99, Come see us !
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Guys;
I just bought a FS11 with an oil injected 503. My question is if I want
to run synthetic oil that is supposed to be mixed at 100 to 1, how do I get
the right ratio . The injector pump is set up to run 50 to 1. Do I just run
the synthetic at 50 to 1`? This kind of defeats the purpose of the synthetic
oil. Anyone had this problem?
Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bolt failure |
Richard C Webb wrote:
>
>
> Does this bolt apply to MK3's as well?
>
> Rick Webb
----------------------------------------------------
Answer to Rick Webb's question is NO.
I asked this of Dennis Souder, and he told me that the Mark-3 has a
compeletly redesigned aileron control mechanism.
Hope this helps.
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
60% finished Mark-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Speed Indic Static Port |
<< I recently installed a full cockpit enclosure on my Firefly and everything
is
great except that the ASI reads reads 10 to 15 mph high >>
Duane,
I had experienced the same thing on my Original FireStar when I installed a
3/4 enclosure. I then installed two static ports, one on each side of the
nose cone, using 1/4 ID tubing, and it cured the problem. Ports are located
on sides, about center of distance from front to rear of nose cone and also
about half way up from bottom edge.
I went to the hardware store and got a double ended 1/4 ID barbed fitting
(that would normally be used to connect two pieces of tubing together). The
center part was larger in diameter and thick enough that I was able to saw it
into two pieces. I now had two barbed fittings with a thin head to keep it
from going thru the hole in the nose cone. I placed the fitting into the
hole and attached the tubing on the inside with a clamp. That is all thats
needed to hold it in place. Then ran the tubing to the ASI and altimeter
using tees. Both ports are connected together.
The barbed fitting I modified was made of brass, but plastic would do as well
and be 'lighter'.
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ
Original FireStar 377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bolt failure |
Thanks,I feel better now.
Rick Webb
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 2:29 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Aileron Bolt failure
>
>Richard C Webb wrote:
>>
>>
>> Does this bolt apply to MK3's as well?
>>
>> Rick Webb
>----------------------------------------------------
>Answer to Rick Webb's question is NO.
>I asked this of Dennis Souder, and he told me that the Mark-3 has a
>compeletly redesigned aileron control mechanism.
>Hope this helps.
>Dennis Kirby
>Cedar Crest, NM
>60% finished Mark-3
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Injection? |
Kent,I'm using Amsoil injection oil on my 582.
Rick Webb
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenmead(at)aol.com <Kenmead(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 1:29 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Oil Injection?
>
>Hi Guys;
> I just bought a FS11 with an oil injected 503. My question is if I want
>to run synthetic oil that is supposed to be mixed at 100 to 1, how do I get
>the right ratio . The injector pump is set up to run 50 to 1. Do I just
run
>the synthetic at 50 to 1`? This kind of defeats the purpose of the
synthetic
>oil. Anyone had this problem?
>
> Kent
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another one bites the dust. |
Have you guys seen this yet?
ULnews - http://www.ultralightnews.com
TEAM May 4, 1999
From: Wayne Isom
Subject: IMPORTANT NOTICE
We need to inform you of very recent developments hear at TEAM.
To explain the situation we find ourselves in, it is necessary to go back
3 years, when a man in Florida built an AirBike and then crashed it. He
filed a lawsuit, claiming we supplied defective materials.
Although he had a very weak case, it was still necessary to spend big
dollars and much effort in Florida to defend ourselves.
Last year we met in a Florida court and the decision was in our favor.
They found no indication of defective material, that caused the pilot loss
of control. The financial expenditure to TEAM was far beyond our
expectations and in fact, we are still in debt to our
attorneys for those costs. Now we have been informed he has re-filed this
case, and from all indications is prepared to do all this
again in a bigger way. Our lawyers have advised us they feel we can still
win again; however, the financial cost this time will be much greater.
This is a no win situation for TEAM as we lose big bucks
either way.
Unfortunately, the U.S. judicial system does not protect, or provide a
method for a small business to defend itself against repeated assaults by
anyone, even though this business has not been found guilty of anything,
without spending vast sums of money.
Our options are few. Financially, we cannot afford to win, and even when
we win, this may not stop another legal attack. If we do not defend
ourselves, and the case goes to trial, they will automatically win and can
take everything. It appears our only option is to immediately cease as an
existing business, by filing for bankruptcy, since they are literally
putting us in this financial condition
It is with extreme regret that we find it necessary to do this to our
worldwide network of TEAM Dealers, and their customers.
Hopefully, we may be able to inform you of other sources that will be able
to supply you and your existing customers with material to finish or keep
existing aircraft flying.
With deepest regrets,
TENNESSEE ENGINEERING & MFG., INC.
by: Wayne Isom, President
P.S. It is a sad situation when one man can spoil so much for so many.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rudder cables |
On 5/7/99, Ray Baker wrote - - quote - -
Ron,
Did you sheath the cables the entire length of the fuselage tube?
===================================
Ray:
Sorry to be so slow in responding to your inquiry; each sheath runs nearly
the entire length of each cable. Obviously, there is NO cable slapping noise
inside the fuselage tube. I tie-wrapped the rear end of each sheath so that
it doesn't slip too far back. I really like the result.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Handheld Radio Amp. |
The following message posted by Rick Libersat: - - Quote - -
Ron
I have seen this amp in CHIEF AIRCRAFT this is an aircraft outlet. I have
been wanting to talk to someone that has used one but have not had any
luck the unit cost 175-200 bucks. I to have a M 3 with an Icom 21 like
you it seems that 4 / 5 mi. is all she will do I can receive at least
30 mi. maybe more, but if I cant get back it is not doing the whole job
that I want it to. Hope that this will help in the mean time I will try to
get the number if you have the # let me know
Rick Libersat
- - Unquote - -
Hey Rick:
Thanks for your hint which caused me to look in my catalogs. I found EXACTLY
what I need in a Wag-Aero catalog, and ordered a unit today. It's a "CS-10
Amplifier," Wag-Aero part number C-255-000, cost $199.95 plus tax & shipping.
The ad says - - "Connects between radio and external antenna to amplify radio
to 10 watts. Covers entire 118 - 139 MHz aircraft band. Connects between
your radio and external antenna to make your handheld as powerful as a panel
mounted transceiver. Range: 50 plus miles. Size: 5.9" X 1.4 " (the 3rd.
dimension is not listed). 3 year manufacturers warranty."
Sounds good to me; I should receive the unit in a week or so. As soon as
it's installed and tested, I'll provide a report to the Kolb-list. Thanks
again for the tip.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
N313DR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Last Update MKIII Performance |
In a message dated 5/9/99 Bill George wrote:
What is the empty weight of your bird and were you flying solo??
Bill George
Mk-3 582 Ivo
===============================
Hi Bill:
My MKIII1/2 weighs 680 lb. empty, and I was flying solo. I weigh 225 lb.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air Speed Indic Static Port |
Hello Bill, Thanks for the good advice on static port location. Once again
the Kolb list shows how useful it can be as a conduit for bull's-eye
information. I'm going to the airport this afternoon after I gather up the
parts and tools needed to install the static system. I have built and flown a
FireStar, a Mark lll and a FireFly and am solidly hooked on Kolbs. Please let
me know if you ever need to talk about some aspect of building, modifying or
any of these birds.
Happy Landings, Duane Mitchell in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Injection & Oil types |
--My question is if I want
to run synthetic oil
Kent - FOr what it's worth, I attended a Rotax 2S seminar last weekend here
in CT put on by Phil Lockwood of Lockwood aviation. A discusion started
about the best oil ot use in our 2S engies. Phil responded by saying that
he was recently asked by Pensoil to perform a test of a new oil against
their aircooled two stroke oil, systhetic and a synthetic blend ( popular
competitive brands). They set up a test stand with 4 447 engines and ran
them simulated to the way we run our engines in the field for 300 hours.
Then they broke them down and measured the wear and compared. They also
evaluated carbon build up and ring effects of the different oils used.
Because of this comprehensive test, Phil advocates using the Pensoil air
cooled oil. It was significantly better than other oils. The only oil
which came close to the air cooled was the marine Pensoil for water cooled
engines which they also tested. BUT it wasn't as good as the Pensoil 2S air
cooled oil. If I undertstood him correctly, Phil said the problem with the
syn oils is that they don't burn out of the cylinders completely. So they
slowly build up and become a problem for the rings. ALso the air cooled oil
leaves the rings free and least carbon (of the mineral based oils) if you
run consistantly in the 1100 EGT degree range, getting better if you can
approach 1200 and not run over. He also warned about mixing syn oils and
mineral based which could become a problem if you're Xcountry flying
depending on what you can buy. One last issue: generally speaking, engines
don't break in well on syn oils. Their so slippery the rings have problems
seating so breaking in could take a great deal longer or not at all before
you go and fly.
You can call Phil at Lockwood Aviation and speak with him about this. He
has a lot of experience. ABout the new Pensoil he was testing, it didn't
perform as well as the existing air cooled oil.
Specifically, for those of you running 532/582/618 and in general for the
rest: Phil said to use the aircooled 2S oil and keep your EGT's & CHT's
balanced and to factory specs, perform TBO's, routine maintenance on the
engine and you'll have a very reliable & economical engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | making holes in hinges and gussetts... |
Someone posted:
>K-Listers
>Just finished the 12 hinges for ailerons and flaps. 12 hinges x 56 holes
>each equals 672 holes. Drilling holes is tedious and deburring holes
>really sucks!!
>Lesson learned: The lighter the touch on the drill the less burrs to be
>cleaned up.
Something I should mention again for the new builders: I bought a hand
power-punch (from I think Northern). This thing looks like a big crimper, but
is designed to punch holes in metal up to about 20 gauge. It comes with about
seven different punch and die sets to choose hole diameters, from slightly
smaller than 1/8" up to about 5/16" (from memory). It has a edge-guide built in
so you can adjust that for almost production-line speed. The thing sold for
about twenty bucks. The best part is that it makes a perfect hole with no burrs
on either side. And it is about a one-second operation per hole. I used it for
all the gussetts and especially loved it for use on the hinges.
Check it out, its a great sheet metal tool and the price is right.
Dennis: if anyone is compiling a list of additions to the Builder's Manual, I
would suggest mentioning the Power-punch in there.
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Injection & Oil types |
> a Rotax 2S seminar last weekend here
> in CT put on by Phil Lockwood of Lockwood aviation.
......
> asked by Pensoil to perform a test
......
> Because of this comprehensive test, Phil advocates using the Pensoil air
> cooled oil.
.......
>Phil said the problem with the
> syn oils is that they don't burn out of the cylinders completely.
.....etc, etc, etc.....
Well, yes. If you're being paid to run the test by the sponsor,
whatcha gonna do....say the product is no good?
The last bit about syn not "burn(ing) out of the cylinders" is
conjectural and highly misleading. Show us the data the statement
is based on. Saying it doesn't make it so.
The only reason these types of statements will go unchallenged is
the fact that no one else is going to pony up the money to run a
few engines on their oil to show how that particular oil is better than
all the rest.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Injection & Oil types |
In a message dated 99-05-13 10:39:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jlbaker(at)telepath.com writes:
<< Well, yes. If you're being paid to run the test by the sponsor,
whatcha gonna do....say the product is no good? >>
Interesting point. I spoke with the guy who ran the tests for lockwood.
They made a test stand, which I saw pictures of, and ran 4 oils in four
identical 503s. The carbs were all connected, so the engines ran the same
rpms and the four oils the lockwood guys used were in unmarked containers.
At the end of the tests the engines were torn down and the clyinders examined
and again identified by number for the evaluation. It was only after that
that the Pennzoil guys identified the oils to the lockwood guys. I saw
detailed color pictures of the four cylinders at SNF and I was convinced that
Pennzoil is a pretty good product. This was the most scientific test of
engine oils in two stroke engines that I have seen in the 10 years I have
been hanging around this business. Everybody I talk to has a personal
opinion about synthetic vs. petroleum based, and alot of guys have anecdotal
evidence based on personal experience, we all hear stories about folks going
600 hours with no carbon deposits and so forth. But before the lockwood test
I'd never heard of any real fair comparision at actually attempted to compare
performance side by side.
Take a look at the results and understand the methodology of the test
before you knock it. I think testing like that is very important. AND WE
NEED MORE OF IT. Aircraft two stroke operators need all the help they can
get.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Injection & Oil types |
Jim Baker wrote:
>
> Well, yes. If you're being paid to run the test by the sponsor,
> whatcha gonna do....say the product is no good?
>
Jim and Kolb Gang:
I agree with Jim on this. I would also venture to say that
these tests were never conducted at Lockwood as it was
explained. 300 hours is a lot of test time on an engine to
be performed by a small company with a small market. To do
that test would require 900 to 1200 gallons of fuel for one
engine times four is around 3600 to 4800 gal times a
dollar. Not even considering the cost of the engines and
the labor costs, just the cost of the fuel alone makes me
want to believe that again we are trying to be fooled by
someone out to make money off of us. My best guess is that
this test was just like all the rest of Rotax's
developmental testing, US. We do the testing for Rotax at
our expense. Take for instance the 912. Started out with a
600 hour TBO. Based on user experience the TBO has been
extended. Not based on testing by Rotax.
Would be nice to get paid a test pilots salary!!!
Instead we get socked with parts and engine prices that are
nothing less than "highway robbery."
Just my thoughts, thinking out loud again.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Miller, Ed" <Ed.Miller(at)mts.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another one bites the dust. |
Well that sucks!
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Possum [mailto:possums(at)mindspring.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 11:29 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Another one bites the dust.
Have you guys seen this yet?
ULnews - http://www.ultralightnews.com
TEAM May 4, 1999
From: Wayne Isom
Subject: IMPORTANT NOTICE
We need to inform you of very recent developments hear at TEAM.
To explain the situation we find ourselves in, it is necessary to go back
3 years, when a man in Florida built an AirBike and then crashed it. He
filed a lawsuit, claiming we supplied defective materials.
Although he had a very weak case, it was still necessary to spend big
dollars and much effort in Florida to defend ourselves.
Last year we met in a Florida court and the decision was in our favor.
They found no indication of defective material, that caused the pilot loss
of control. The financial expenditure to TEAM was far beyond our
expectations and in fact, we are still in debt to our
attorneys for those costs. Now we have been informed he has re-filed this
case, and from all indications is prepared to do all this
again in a bigger way. Our lawyers have advised us they feel we can still
win again; however, the financial cost this time will be much greater.
This is a no win situation for TEAM as we lose big bucks
either way.
Unfortunately, the U.S. judicial system does not protect, or provide a
method for a small business to defend itself against repeated assaults by
anyone, even though this business has not been found guilty of anything,
without spending vast sums of money.
Our options are few. Financially, we cannot afford to win, and even when
we win, this may not stop another legal attack. If we do not defend
ourselves, and the case goes to trial, they will automatically win and can
take everything. It appears our only option is to immediately cease as an
existing business, by filing for bankruptcy, since they are literally
putting us in this financial condition
It is with extreme regret that we find it necessary to do this to our
worldwide network of TEAM Dealers, and their customers.
Hopefully, we may be able to inform you of other sources that will be able
to supply you and your existing customers with material to finish or keep
existing aircraft flying.
With deepest regrets,
TENNESSEE ENGINEERING & MFG., INC.
by: Wayne Isom, President
P.S. It is a sad situation when one man can spoil so much for so many.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | making holes in hinges and gussetts... |
I just looked thru the recent Northern catalogue for this tool and can't
find it. Could you provide the part number of it? thanks.
-----Original Message-----
From: gerken(at)us.ibm.com [mailto:gerken(at)us.ibm.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 10:35 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: making holes in hinges and gussetts...
Someone posted:
>K-Listers
>Just finished the 12 hinges for ailerons and flaps. 12 hinges x 56 holes
>each equals 672 holes. Drilling holes is tedious and deburring holes
>really sucks!!
>Lesson learned: The lighter the touch on the drill the less burrs to be
>cleaned up.
Something I should mention again for the new builders: I bought a hand
power-punch (from I think Northern). This thing looks like a big crimper,
but
is designed to punch holes in metal up to about 20 gauge. It comes with
about
seven different punch and die sets to choose hole diameters, from slightly
smaller than 1/8" up to about 5/16" (from memory). It has a edge-guide
built in
so you can adjust that for almost production-line speed. The thing sold for
about twenty bucks. The best part is that it makes a perfect hole with no
burrs
on either side. And it is about a one-second operation per hole. I used it
for
all the gussetts and especially loved it for use on the hinges.
Check it out, its a great sheet metal tool and the price is right.
Dennis: if anyone is compiling a list of additions to the Builder's Manual,
I
would suggest mentioning the Power-punch in there.
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Injection & Oil types |
> I was convinced that
> Pennzoil is a pretty good product.
And it certainly is if the product works for you ( and I have no gripes
about the product, either)...but
> alot of guys have anecdotal
> evidence based on personal experience, we all hear stories about folks going
> 600 hours with no carbon deposits and so forth.
Most of these folks reporting 600 hours and no carbon (I'm 280
hours with no carbon, no decarbons, no teardowns, no
breakdowns, etc....*knock on wood*) weren't paid to make the
claim. The oil I'm using? You'll just have to guess. I'm not telling,
nor should I have to. I am, however, an advocate of 100:1 oils.
In most cases the oil is generally the last factor that gets the
blame/credit for failures/success and it sticks to the product like
some almighty glue when in reality the oil brand wasn't a factor
contributing to the failure. Brand loyalty is a fine thing, but please
consider this.....if all the other oils are so bad, how come the
companies producing them aren't out of business or at least
discontinuing their two-cycle products? Makes absolutely no
sense to me why anyone would want to market an inferior product
that costs so much to package and market in the first place. You'd
have to be the world's worst businessman to even consider such a
ploy.
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Speed Indic Static Port |
I had this same situation and IMHO found a nifty sol'n. From the
Matronics archives ...
Date: Aug 31, 1998
From: Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu
Subject: ASI on a full enclosure FS
One of my big aggravations has been a totally loused up ASI since addingside
panels to my FS. The pressure drop inside the cockpit "sucks" interms of
screwing up what used to be an ASI very close to TAS.Well yesterday I tried a
new location for static source and GOT IT!!!!Even better, it is without any
gory construction agony or mess. There arelittle clam shell openings on each
side of the fiberglass nose cone whereit overlaps the front 10" of Stits
covered sides. I used a nylon T from the static port to 1/4" plastic tubes to
each side, ending insidethese pre-existing clamshell openings.My indicated
stall
speed has moved up from 28 to 35. I only roughlycross checked that w/ GPS so
don't really know yet how accurate the lowend is, and don't really care,
because 35 was very repeatable. I thinkprobably 35 might be more correct than
28. BTW, while checking this Idid the full aft stick controlled straight
flight
thing. It's wierd.Anyway, 50 and 60 indicated is just 2 mph faster than TAS,
and 70-75indicated is ~4mph faster than TAS. A little too windy to be
positive,but it was very very close. Hallelujah! Without a trusty ASI I had
fallen off in my ability to do a slow short final to a short spot
landing...had
just been coming in conservatively fast, then holding it off forlots of runway
length until it touched down. No finesse in that.-Ben Ransom
>
>I know I have seen info on this subject on the list before but I would like
>to utilize any recent experience available.
>I recently installed a full cockpit enclosure on my Firefly and everything
is
>great except that the ASI reads reads 10 to 15 mph high when I am flying at
>50 mph according to my GPS. I am sure that the open back of the enclosure is
>causing a vacuum to form in the cockpit at higher speeds. I placed a static
>port just aft of the nose cone utilizing one of the windshield mounting
tabs.
>No joy. The problem is still there and I would like to know if anyone else
>has solved it before I take another guess at where the port should be. A
>contributing factor to this failure may be that I used 1/8" ID tubing to the
>port when the pitot tubing is 1/4th". It would seem that at a constant speed
>all pressures would stabilize and the diaphram movement in the ASI would
>still convey an acceptably accurate reading.
>One of the local airmen commented that a vacuum means more drag and that
when
>an enclosure is added on the drag on the sides of the pod aft of the cockpit
>may cause the plane to be more susceptable to yawing in flight. He compared
>adding the enclosure to adding feathers to the front of an arrow. Hmmm... I
>did notice that it was a little harder to keep on track during approaches
and
>the stall speed seemed to be higher. I won't really know untill I
re-esablish
>confidence in the AIS.
>Bombs away !!!
>Duane Mitchell in Tallahassee
>
>PS EAA Chapter 445 will have it's annual fly-in at the Quincey, FL airport
>this Saturday 5/15/99, Come see us !
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air Speed Indic Static Port |
>>what used to be an ASI very close to TAS.<<
IAS will not equal TAS, even with a perfectly calibrated ASI, except at sea
level on a standard day. TAS will exceed IAS by about 2% per thousand feet of
altitude.
What we are really looking for is CAS or calibrated airspeed. One method,
which should give an indication of any airspeed pitot/static errors would be
to hang a Hall tube outside the airplane and compare. The Hall will be
operating in clean air and should be pretty close.
Bill George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mr. Chuck" <mrchuck(at)1st.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another one bites the dust. |
Politician's #1 job is to provide jobs for lawyers and insurance men..
donot archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Geezer810(at)aol.com |
Hi Cliff,
Forgot to mention that I went to resistor plugs first.
Keep em flying.
Harry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio Amp. |
Ron,
>The ad says - - "Connects between radio and external antenna to amplify radio
>to 10 watts. Covers entire 118 - 139 MHz aircraft band. Connects between
>your radio and external antenna to make your handheld as powerful as a panel
>mounted transceiver. Range: 50 plus miles. Size: 5.9" X 1.4 " (the 3rd.
>dimension is not listed). 3 year manufacturers warranty."
On the outside chance that you haven't already ordered the amp, maybe you
should check your antenna's VSWR prior to ordering. Modern day
transistorized transmitters have a protection circuit built in that will
decrease the transmitter's power output to keep from burning up the power
output transistor (s) in case of an antenna mismatch.
Most, if not all, handheld transceivers should do much better than your
unit is doing and should provide a reasonable line-of-sight range,
especially if an external antenna is used. If your unit itself is good, my
guess is that your antenna setup is at fault. If that's the case, the
amplifier will do little, if any, good.
Regards,
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another one bites the dust. |
I think old Molt Taylor said it best when he stated the only way to sell
an aeroplane is with a guarantee it will kill or seriously injure the pilot
due to pilotage, construction or engineering. In case anything happened he
fullfilled his guarantee and if nothing happened you just needed more time.
I wish I had the original text. If I was in the business I would make it a
standard contract, If someone could not accept it then they could shop
elsewhere and be someone elses problem.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bolt failure |
does this apply to the original twinstars?
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
<< I'm very satisfied with the 447 on the Original FireStar. >>
Ralph,
Thanks for the report on 377 vs 447 performance.
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ
Original FireStar 377 (360 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Injection & Oil types |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Now here's the truth. I'll stick with Klotz .......Ralph
writes:
>
>> a Rotax 2S seminar last weekend here
>> in CT put on by Phil Lockwood of Lockwood aviation.
>......
>> asked by Pensoil to perform a test
>......
>> Because of this comprehensive test, Phil advocates using the Pensoil
>air
>> cooled oil.
>.......
>>Phil said the problem with the
>> syn oils is that they don't burn out of the cylinders completely.
>
>.....etc, etc, etc.....
>
>Well, yes. If you're being paid to run the test by the sponsor,
>whatcha gonna do....say the product is no good?
>
>The last bit about syn not "burn(ing) out of the cylinders" is
>conjectural and highly misleading. Show us the data the statement
>is based on. Saying it doesn't make it so.
>
>The only reason these types of statements will go unchallenged is
>the fact that no one else is going to pony up the money to run a
>few engines on their oil to show how that particular oil is better
>than
>all the rest.
>
>
>J. Baker
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
So, Cliff, where IS your antenna mounted? Still trying to figure out
the ideal antenna placement for my Mark-3. Also, I "borrowed" your idea
of installing a gate handle on each wingtip to provide a wing-handling
slot. Saw this on your website - very good idea. Worth copying. do
not archive
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
60% complete Mark-3
Cliff / Carolyn Stripling wrote:
> Harry,
>
> My antenna is in the same place as are most others.
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Guys;
Hey guys, you all kind of got sidetracked on my oil injection question.
I was trying to figure out the mix ratio. Rotax engines come with a 50 to 1
oil pump ratio, what do you do when you want to run 100 to 1 ratio. No
matter what brand of oil you use.
Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Injection? |
The oilinjection lever controls the volume of oil through the pump from
about 50-100%. You could experiment with different settings to calibrate
the amount of oil to 100:1 during max. rpm operation by changing the cable
lenght (slacking off) with the adjustment screw to have less lever action
than the full stroke.
Frank Reynen MKIII
Kenmead(at)aol.com on 99/05/13 04:38:26 nm
Please respond to kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Oil Injection?
Hi Guys;
Hey guys, you all kind of got sidetracked on my oil injection
question.
I was trying to figure out the mix ratio. Rotax engines come with a 50 to 1
oil pump ratio, what do you do when you want to run 100 to 1 ratio. No
matter what brand of oil you use.
Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Northern "Power Punch Kit" |
I stopped by the Northern Tool store on the way home and bought a +ACI-Power
Punch Kit+ACI-. I'm not sure which number on the receipt is which, but it looks
like the pn is either 000000005 or more likely 14572. Price before tax is
+ACQ-18.99 in San Antonio.
It looks like a hole punch that I have except it has an edge guide that my
old one lacks.
Thanks, Jim for this suggestion. If it works as slick as you say, It will
save a lot of deburring.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Smart" <gsmart(at)iinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Injection? |
donot archive
Disconnect the oil pump and mix the fuel and oil as we use to.
This is the only safe way.
Don.t mess with changing you oil pump cables if you get it wrong it will go
bang !!!!!
Geoff
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenmead(at)aol.com <Kenmead(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, 14 May 1999 7:43
Subject: Kolb-List: Oil Injection?
>
>Hi Guys;
> Hey guys, you all kind of got sidetracked on my oil injection
question.
>I was trying to figure out the mix ratio. Rotax engines come with a 50 to 1
>oil pump ratio, what do you do when you want to run 100 to 1 ratio. No
>matter what brand of oil you use.
>
> Kent
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carrying to Castle AFB |
Which issue of Kitplanes was your Firestar in, Chris ?? I try to keep up
on such things, but I guess I missed that. Speaking of keeping up, I see in
the new May ' 99 issue of Sport Aviation, a real nice looking new Mk II by
Paul Johnson, in Payson, AZ. Is he on the list, or do I have egg on my face
again, and missed him too ?? Nice plane, Paul. Chris, my address
is: 7 Harrison, Cathedral City, CA. 92234. Ugly or not, I still
don't think they exist, and I'll have to see one for proof ! ! ! Yeah ! !
! Thank you for the offer. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: CHRISTOPHER DAVIS <cdavis2(at)capecod.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Carrying to Castle AFB
>
> Big Lar, if you want a white hat just give mer your address and i will
send
> you a couple ,as have 4 , after my firestar on floats was in kitplanes
last
> summer , Dennis gave me two at Oshkosh , and when got home Kolb sent me
> two more ! Glad to share , I think they are ugly as hell as much as I love
> the airplane UGLY is UGLY !!chris
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 10:45 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Carrying to Castle AFB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Injection & Oil types |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Oil Injection & Oil types
>
>Now here's the truth. I'll stick with Klotz .......Ralph
>
Hmm, for what it's worth, the "rebuilt 15 hrs ago" 503 on my
new-to-me Mk II had its rings totally seized to the pistons.
Evidence of lots of blow-by but the cyl walls looked good.
The previous owner used Klotz.
Think I'll follow the tried & true Pennzoil. Also, the article
in the current UL Flying mag laid to rest any more thoughts
about a "best" oil.
David (now if I can only figure out why the rear cyl EGT is
150 degrees hotter) Bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio Amp. |
Ron
I will be waiting to hear how you like your unit I hope that it dose the
job for you if you think that it works at least 1/2 as they say I will
get one to and try it out
Rick Libersat
>
>The following message posted by Rick Libersat: - - Quote - -
>Ron
>I have seen this amp in CHIEF AIRCRAFT this is an aircraft outlet. I
>have
>been wanting to talk to someone that has used one but have not had any
>luck the unit cost 175-200 bucks. I to have a M 3 with an Icom 21 like
>you it seems that 4 / 5 mi. is all she will do I can receive at least
>30 mi. maybe more, but if I cant get back it is not doing the whole
>job
>that I want it to. Hope that this will help in the mean time I will
>try to
>get the number if you have the # let me know
>
>Rick Libersat
>
>- - Unquote - -
>
>Hey Rick:
>Thanks for your hint which caused me to look in my catalogs. I found
>EXACTLY
>what I need in a Wag-Aero catalog, and ordered a unit today. It's a
>"CS-10
>Amplifier," Wag-Aero part number C-255-000, cost $199.95 plus tax &
>shipping.
>
>
>The ad says - - "Connects between radio and external antenna to
>amplify radio
>to 10 watts. Covers entire 118 - 139 MHz aircraft band. Connects
>between
>your radio and external antenna to make your handheld as powerful as a
>panel
>mounted transceiver. Range: 50 plus miles. Size: 5.9" X 1.4 " (the
>3rd.
>dimension is not listed). 3 year manufacturers warranty."
>
>Sounds good to me; I should receive the unit in a week or so. As soon
>as
>it's installed and tested, I'll provide a report to the Kolb-list.
>Thanks
>again for the tip.
>
>Ron Christensen
>MKIII1/2
>N313DR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Appleton <randy(at)euclid.acs.NMU.EDU> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/08/99 |
I'm looking for a Kolb-er in the Chicagoland area. Anybody here?
-Randy
========================================================================
|| Randy Appleton, Professor of Computer Science at Northern Michigan ||
|| University. And a big fan of Linux! ||
================= mailto:randy(at)euclid.nmu.edu ==========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Modified wing tips |
Jason Omelchuck wrote in a 5/12/99 message - - quote - -
Ron, if you state that the original tips on your plane were modified and
that the wing tips you have now are built to plans (designers
specifications, with hundreds of like wing tips currently flying), the
FAA might let you pass on the fly off time. - - unquote - - -
================
I suppose you are correct Jason, but the truth is that my new wing tips are
NOT built to plans; they are foam covered fiberglass rather than alum. tubing
covered with fabric. The only thing like the plans is the SHAPE, but it's
the construction method that has the FAA interested. Thanks much for your
thoughtful input.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim.Hrib(at)carefirst.com |
| Subject: | Oil Injection & Oil types |
citizens, i agree with jim baker's response about phil lockwood's tests
involving pennzoil and 'other' brands. pennzoil paid the bill so its obvious
what conclusion phil would arrive at. business is business ! and the bottom
line is the bottom line. does anyone really think that pennzoil would pay for
a test that showed some other brand was superior to theirs ?
...................... tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TEAM Aircraft |
Guys,
every post on the subject of TEAM that I've seen on the net has ended up a
long thread about lawyers, good vs evil, changing the laws, etc.
How about a different approach... get the guys name, get the facts on the
case (TEAM won, court said pilot error) and put his name EVERYWHERE.
for instance the guy goes to the local airport, supermarket, the net, sees
his name on a flyer with the fact that he is filing frivolous lawsuits that
is shutting down a respected aircraft co.
I am of the belief that most folks would condemn or at least shun a person
if they knew what he was doing.
just a thought
Geoff Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another one bites the dust. |
wood wrote:
>
>
> I think old Molt Taylor said it best when he stated the only way to sell
> an aeroplane is with a guarantee it will kill or seriously injure the pilot
> due to pilotage, construction or engineering. In case anything happened he
> fullfilled his guarantee and if nothing happened you just needed more time.
> I wish I had the original text. If I was in the business I would make it a
> standard contract, If someone could not accept it then they could shop
> elsewhere and be someone elses problem.
>
> Woody
>
I bought a used air rifle once from Beeman, mail order. It came with a
statement:
"Sold for display purposes only. Not intended to be used for any other
purpose".
So..... How about "This aircraft is intended to sit on your lawn to
impress the neighbors and never under any circumstances is it to be
flown". Come to think of it, I know a couple of those.
Woody Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TEAM Aircraft |
Hi all,
Consider this. There's bankruptcy and then there's bankruptcy.
Chapter 11, Chapter 13, whatever. This does not necessarily mean the
end of Team!
Chapter 11 (I think) allows you to continue to operate even though you
owe more than your assets.
Let's hope this is the plan.
Woody Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/08/99 |
I'm in Aurora building a Mark III. I'm ready to rig the wings and
cover...haven't bought the engine yet, but hope to in the next month or so.
chris sudlow
630-898-8151
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Appleton <randy(at)euclid.acs.NMU.EDU>
Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 11:53 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/08/99
>
>I'm looking for a Kolb-er in the Chicagoland area. Anybody here?
>
>-Randy
>
>========================================================================
>|| Randy Appleton, Professor of Computer Science at Northern Michigan ||
>|| University. And a big fan of Linux! ||
>================= mailto:randy(at)euclid.nmu.edu ==========================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net> |
| Subject: | Wooden propeller torque |
Can anyone tell me what the prop bolt torque should be for my Tennessee
Propeller? I have been using 10 ft lbs and just thought it might be nice to
know the proper value. Prop is a 66 x 28.
Thanks.
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar Rotax 377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wooden propeller torque |
7F00,0000,0000
> Can anyone tell me what the prop bolt torque should be for my Tennessee
> Propeller? I have been using 10 ft lbs and just thought it might be nice to
> know the proper value. Prop is a 66 x 28.
>
Check out
0000,8000,0000
http://www.sensenich.com/
They have a nice section on proper (pun....get it....proper?) values
for any wood prop. Other good info as well.....
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wooden propeller torque |
In a message dated 5/14/99 9:47:18 AM Central Daylight Time,
olendorf(at)empireone.net writes:
> Can anyone tell me what the prop bolt torque should be for my Tennessee
> Propeller? I have been using 10 ft lbs and just thought it might be nice to
> know the proper value. Prop is a 66 x 28.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Scott Olendorf
> Original Firestar Rotax 377
>
I have a Tennessee prop (66x32) on my Mk2.......
Kolb spec is 120inch pounds.
Steve Kroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TEAM Aircraft |
I would like to hear more background on this. What happened, What is his
explanation of the accident, 'what is the FAA's opinion of the accident. I
hate to jump to conclusions hearing just one side of a story. I do side with
Team in general principle but still would like to hear the whole story.
Do ya think Team would sell me their company for a buck. Being a foreinger
I could hire them to run the company and the lawyers could try to push their
case through the Canadian legal system. Good luck, we are not really
accepting of these crybaby lawsuits. When things settle down I could give it
back and even let them keep the buck
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Smart" <gsmart(at)iinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: TEAM Aircraft |
YES
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Thistlethwaite <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net>
kolblist(at)matronics.com
Date: Friday, 14 May 1999 20:06
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: TEAM Aircraft
>
>Guys,
>every post on the subject of TEAM that I've seen on the net has ended up a
>long thread about lawyers, good vs evil, changing the laws, etc.
>How about a different approach... get the guys name, get the facts on the
>case (TEAM won, court said pilot error) and put his name EVERYWHERE.
>for instance the guy goes to the local airport, supermarket, the net, sees
>his name on a flyer with the fact that he is filing frivolous lawsuits that
>is shutting down a respected aircraft co.
>I am of the belief that most folks would condemn or at least shun a person
>if they knew what he was doing.
>just a thought
>Geoff Thistlethwaite
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
Ben
I am sorry to hear about your mishap. But you will get back in the air
and I hope that it will be soon cause I enjoy reading your post you have
in my option made some folks rethink some of the ways they wanted to do
things ,by you giving a different angle to get something done . so
as soon as you get started on your minor repair the sooner the list will
be able to enjoy your stories . If their is anything that I can help you
with let me know .I may have some parts or whatever and if you need them
they're yours.
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>Sad news to report: Yesterday my plane got blown off its tie-downs
>and
>substantially damaged. It is pretty bad ...bent cage, one
>wing repairable, the other is parts only (ruined spar), both ailerons
>damaged, both horiz tail stabilizers with minor damaged. I'm still
>semi-sick about it, not sure what I'll do. The hardest part will be
>getting the cage repaired and straight again. Not sure I'll have what
>
>it takes to want to rebuild.
>
>I had flown a little Sat evening and experienced a very brief rough
>engine
>after about 45 minutes of normal performance. I had just put the
>Powerfin back on after trimming the tips, and therefore had to
>consider the possibility of a prop/hub problem as well as the
>engine. I had an em landing spot, but also, could probably glide
>to the grass farm strip I occassionally use as my home base. I
>landed there with the engine running fine, although I intentionally
>came in at low power. On shutdown the prop/hub inspected fine.
>Plugs fine, top of piston domes fine. Evidence of possible crack
>on front exhaust manifold, but I don't know more about this yet
>as it was getting dark at that point.
>
>I parked and tethered the plane for the night, and brother
>Jim came to get me. We could easily have brought my car/trailer, but
>for incidental reasons didn't. I knew winds would come up again
>overnight so did a good job tethering, or so I thought. I woke up
>early Sunday, went to the field to trailer the plane home as I figured
>
>this was a good time window before family Mother's day things. Got
>to the field at 630am but decided against folding the plane, as I
>would have been unable to control the wings by myself in the wind
>(15-20+, Gusty). I rechecked the ropes, added another wheel chock
>and went back home. 1.5 hours later Bill (farm owner) calls to
>report it is upside down. The tie-down bolts are configured such
>that the plane had to be facing into the wind. A strong gust lifted
>the plane, snapping the tie-down ropes, flung the plane up and over,
>against a strong steel-frame tractor cover about 75' away. My
>tie-down ropes were in new condition, braided nylon 3/16". I'll
>look at a similar package to see what the tensil rating is, just for
>reference. I'm out of commission for at least a year.
>
>-Ben 'sick at heart' Ransom
>PS, trimming the Powerfin prop gave good results but I didn't get enf
>data to comment much yet. I got static max rpm of 61-6200. The top
>speed easily went up thru 75 and looked like it would keep going but
>I backed off because of slightly bumpy air. I still felt like I
>wasn't getting as good a cruise speed as the Warp, but didn't test
>enf to know for sure.
>
>Can't believe I'm pushing 'send' on this.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Fiberglas Nosecone |
Dear Kolb Folks -
I am approx 60 percent finished with my Mark-3 and have just begun work
on installing the nosecone. I've done fine so far in constructing this
airplane, however I have ZERO experience in working with fiberglas. I
wonder if some of you Kolb vererans and those more knowledgeable than me
can help with a couple of items:
1) How do you cut out the instrument holes (incl rectangular hole for
Hobbs meter)?
2) I plan to pretty much fill up the available instrument panel space
with instruments. Is the fiberglas panel sturdy enough to hang all those
instruments on, or do I need to intall a reinforcing layer on front,
like an aluminum panel face or something?
3) What is that spray-on product that I've seen on other fiberglas inner
surfaces that is a speckled grey finish, slightly rough texture? Looks
nicer than bare fiberglas interior.
4) Instruction manual says to primer the exterior surface of the
nosecone prior to painting. What kind of primer shall I use?
5) Is the Stits Poly-Tone paint that I plan to use on the fabric parts
of the ariplane suitable for painting the nosecone too?
I've been tuned in to this Kolb Newsgroup for about a month now, and I'm
amazed at the wonderful exchange of help and technical info you all
share with each other. I'm certain I came to the right place for help.
I'm looking forward the barrage of replys for you guys.
Thanks in advance (and you'll see more ignorant questions from me again
in the future) -
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
(where we have 345 flying days a year!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another one bites the dust. |
> >And I'll gladly throw in another $25.00 as well Ray! Do you volunteer to be
> >the organizer if this "grass runway" movement?
>
>
> I have often spent a lot more than $25 for something that was worth a lot less.
> If someone wants to get the ball rolling, count on at least $25 from me
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
Here's whatcha do......get in touch with PrePaid Legal, a flat rate,
annual contract, legal insurance outfit, pool yer money, buy the
contract for, say, 100 hours or less. It's not that expensive.
Meanwhile, Joe Blow, who knows nothing of PrePaid, pays full tilt
for his representation...
If you go that way, $25 of mine is dittoed......
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
"Bob Moorhead" <warppman@cyber-south.com>,
"Greg Moloney" ,
"Arletta Mattulat" , "Laura" ,
"Constance Ecker" ,
"Donna Dreyer" , "Danny Day" ,
"Ben Cole" , "Walt Colby" ,
"Buddy Carilse" ,
"Kolb Builders" ,
"hollis bridges" , "Cal Beegle" ,
"Ben Barber" ,
"George Bannon" ,
"carl bailey" ,
"Aniceto AOL Bagley" , "ASC 2" ,
"Anita Alan"
| Subject: | Fw: Mrs. Scott's Great E-Mail Race |
----- Original Message -----
From: <AIBAGLEY(at)aol.com>
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ;
; ; ;
;
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 11:45 PM
Subject: Fwd: Mrs. Scott's Great E-Mail Race
>
>
name="Re Mrs. Scott's Great E-Mail Race.eml"
filename="Re Mrs. Scott's Great E-Mail Race.eml"
by rly-zd05.mx.aol.com (8.8.8/8.8.5/AOL-4.0.0)
with ESMTP id HAA24346 for ;
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 06:41:10 -0500
"Billy Whiteside" , genekeen(at)juno.com,
ikezawa(at)acm.org, Norm Kuklinski
From: Ken Kawano <kkawano(at)advicom.net>
Subject: Re: Mrs. Scott's Great E-Mail Race
If time permits, please assist by responding to the following message.
Youngsters and teacher are on the right track and would like to continue to
fuel their curiosity.
Thanks,
Ken
>From: kkoles(at)k12.hi.us
>X-Envelope-Recipient:
>Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:43:58 +0000 (GMT)
>Subject: Re: Mrs. Scott's Great E-Mail Race
>To: kkawano(at)advicom.net
>X-Mailer: Sun(TM) Web Access 1.0
>
>>We are in Mrs. Scott's 3rd grade at Corey Elementary in Arlington, Texas.
We are conducting an investigation. We would like for you to forward this
message to your entire address book. We are curious to see where this
message travels. When you receive this message, please e-mail us at:
corey3scott(at)hotmail.com and tell us your location.
>>
>>We are callthis investigation "The Great E-mail Race." We will calculate
hor far this message has traveled in one week.
>>
>>Thanks for all of your help.
>>
>>Mrs. Scott's 3rd Grade Class
>>
>
>
Ken Kawano
13028 Astalot Drive
Huntsville, AL 35803
email: kkawano(at)advicom.net
telephone: 256-882-3213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sturgesjim(at)aol.com |
Remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio Amp. |
Skip Staub wrote - - -
On the outside chance that you haven't already ordered the amp, maybe you
should check your antenna's VSWR prior to ordering. Modern day
transistorized transmitters have a protection circuit built in that will
decrease the transmitter's power output to keep from burning up the power
output transistor (s) in case of an antenna mismatch.
Most, if not all, handheld transceivers should do much better than your
unit is doing and should provide a reasonable line-of-sight range,
especially if an external antenna is used. If your unit itself is good, my
guess is that your antenna setup is at fault. If that's the case, the
amplifier will do little, if any, good.
===========================
Thanks for the input Skip. My external antenna is a standard aircraft bent
whip mounted just above the vertical stabilizer on the top of the boom tube.
I talked to the avionics people at Aircraft Spruce and they say that my
installation should work just fine. By the way, how would I go about
checking the VSWR and what results are good and what results are bad? I know
what VSWR is, but - - - ? The power amplifier order has a 30 day return &
refund feature, so I'll give it a try & report to the "List."
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglas Nosecone |
Dennis & Diane Kirby wrote:
> Dear Kolb Folks -
> - - - - help with a couple of items:
>
> 1) How do you cut out the instrument holes (incl rectangular hole for
> Hobbs meter)?
> 2) I plan to pretty much fill up the available instrument panel space
> with instruments. Is the fiberglas panel sturdy enough to hang all
> those
> instruments on, or do I need to intall a reinforcing layer on front,
> like an aluminum panel face or something?
> 3) What is that spray-on product that I've seen on other fiberglas
> inner
> surfaces that is a speckled grey finish, slightly rough texture?
> Looks
> nicer than bare fiberglas interior.
> 4) Instruction manual says to primer the exterior surface of the
> nosecone prior to painting. What kind of primer shall I use?
> 5) Is the Stits Poly-Tone paint that I plan to use on the fabric parts
>
> of the ariplane suitable for painting the nosecone too?
>
Hey Dennis,
I learned about this one the hard way..
The Poly-Tone (I used), didn't adhere too well to the fiberglass, so I
called Dennis at Kolb and was told, " For the fiberglass portion, use
auto-spray paint". This came after trying five or so times to keep the
paint connected to the cone. I don't know why this isn't in the
instructions, but it cost me quite a bt of paint. (I don't have any
knowledge about the Eurathane paint, however.)
How to cut the holes in the panel for the instruments? At something
like "Harbor Freight Tools", you can get circular sanding discs in a
package of sortewd sizes. I found that drilling starter holes,
punching out the inside area where needed, inserting the circular
sander, I could gradually enlarge the holes to the correct marked size.
My panel is loaded with instruments and I have no trouble at all with
stability or fragility with the panel.. Yet!!! You should check with
Big Lar, as he has the addition to this panel you refer to, if you need
to enlarge the given size.
One caution here is how to reroute the wires from the panel... My
mistake was in bringing the wires to the side, then down, then back the
the "hot-box" area. This arrangement was more efficient with wire
usage, however, it made it difficult for the right sided person to use
the foot-pedals without dragging their toes into the wires,,, and,, my
compass is almost inoperative due to the electrical impulses of the
wires all around it. Again, I didn't have this list to rely on, but
routing the wires through the front of the cone, as Big Lar has shown
me, is mush better...(See, I do give credit where it is diserved.)
Hope this helps
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglas Nosecone |
In a message dated 5/14/99 11:09:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
kirbyd(at)flash.net writes:
>
> 1) How do you cut out the instrument holes (incl rectangular hole for
> Hobbs meter)?
> 2) I plan to pretty much fill up the available instrument panel space
> with instruments. Is the fiberglas panel sturdy enough to hang all those
> instruments on, or do I need to intall a reinforcing layer on front,
Dennis...
I shock mounted another surface on the original fiberglas panel (used a very
nice piece of mahogany plywood) and mounted the instruments to that....works
great...looks nice....no problems...
Steve Kroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
Hey Kolbers:
I have a problem:
My broken flap has been repaired, but my bent flap is giving me
problems..
The bend is located just at a rib attachment and making it too difficult
to "work" the bend out.. I was thinking of using a "rubber" hammer with
a 2x4 brace to pound the bend out. I don't want to break the tube, and
was wondering if the hammering is worse than the hand working, to remove
the bend.. You should know that I used quite a bit of force already,
with my hands, to no avail... I feel that using MORE force with my
hands will surely break the trailing edge.
Any experience out there with this problem?
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglas Nosecone |
Dennis,if you want to use Poly-Tone on the fiberglass nose,use a good
quality auto primer and before it sets up,dust a light coat of Poly-Tone on
right away(this is called a wet on wet application).I've done this on a
couple of planes and it works great.Plus it matches the rest of the plane.
Rick Webb
MK3
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com>
Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fiberglas Nosecone
>
>Dennis & Diane Kirby wrote:
>
>> Dear Kolb Folks -
>> - - - - help with a couple of items:
>>
>> 1) How do you cut out the instrument holes (incl rectangular hole for
>> Hobbs meter)?
>> 2) I plan to pretty much fill up the available instrument panel space
>> with instruments. Is the fiberglas panel sturdy enough to hang all
>> those
>> instruments on, or do I need to intall a reinforcing layer on front,
>> like an aluminum panel face or something?
>> 3) What is that spray-on product that I've seen on other fiberglas
>> inner
>> surfaces that is a speckled grey finish, slightly rough texture?
>> Looks
>> nicer than bare fiberglas interior.
>> 4) Instruction manual says to primer the exterior surface of the
>> nosecone prior to painting. What kind of primer shall I use?
>> 5) Is the Stits Poly-Tone paint that I plan to use on the fabric parts
>>
>> of the ariplane suitable for painting the nosecone too?
>>
>
>Hey Dennis,
>I learned about this one the hard way..
>The Poly-Tone (I used), didn't adhere too well to the fiberglass, so I
>called Dennis at Kolb and was told, " For the fiberglass portion, use
>auto-spray paint". This came after trying five or so times to keep the
>paint connected to the cone. I don't know why this isn't in the
>instructions, but it cost me quite a bt of paint. (I don't have any
>knowledge about the Eurathane paint, however.)
>How to cut the holes in the panel for the instruments? At something
>like "Harbor Freight Tools", you can get circular sanding discs in a
>package of sortewd sizes. I found that drilling starter holes,
>punching out the inside area where needed, inserting the circular
>sander, I could gradually enlarge the holes to the correct marked size.
>My panel is loaded with instruments and I have no trouble at all with
>stability or fragility with the panel.. Yet!!! You should check with
>Big Lar, as he has the addition to this panel you refer to, if you need
>to enlarge the given size.
>One caution here is how to reroute the wires from the panel... My
>mistake was in bringing the wires to the side, then down, then back the
>the "hot-box" area. This arrangement was more efficient with wire
>usage, however, it made it difficult for the right sided person to use
>the foot-pedals without dragging their toes into the wires,,, and,, my
>compass is almost inoperative due to the electrical impulses of the
>wires all around it. Again, I didn't have this list to rely on, but
>routing the wires through the front of the cone, as Big Lar has shown
>me, is mush better...(See, I do give credit where it is diserved.)
>Hope this helps
>Regards
>Doc
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Doc
Can you make a "sandwich" of two 2x4s, w/ flap between, and BIG
clamp(s)? Or is bend in fore & aft position--in line w/ surface of flap.
Then you may have to cut/re-do covering? Don't hammer it. Can you see
whether tube is AT ALL wrinkled at bend? How many degrees is the bend?
If it's really bent and wrinkled, you may have to cut out a section and
rivet a larger pc of tubing to bridge the bent/cutout area. The sandwich
idea works fine with smaller bends, and is slow and reasonbly "gentle."
How abt a little chiro-adjustmentsickly grin??
GB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff / Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)tetric.com> |
>
>Had to laugh when I read this. I've seen 3 "usual" places for "most"
>antennas to be mounted. Which one is it, Cliff ?? I like your idea of the
>handle in the wingtip too, and plan on copy-ing it. Also plan on copy-ing
>your pointed fairing at the back of the pod, just in front of the prop. How
>did you frame that in ?? Sure looks good. Your pictures are great.
I copied the gate handle from someone else... I agree, it is an excellent mod.
I attached the antenna with the forward bolt holding the belly skid onto
the frame. That seems to be the site that "a lot of" builders are using.
You have to bend the whip tip back to keep it from digging into the ground.
My antenna whip comes off so I always remove it when I am jockeying the
plane around on the ground. I should have provided a flat piece of
aluminum for a proper ground plane, but did not. I just use the airframe
itself. Stupid me, I did not realize at first that the antenna needed to
be grounded to the frame or a ground plane of some kind. I had it mounted
in the Lexan on top of the wing gap seal. Obviously, I was not putting out
any signal, but it looked good up there on top.
If I had it to do over again I think I would put the com antenna a little
to the side and further to the rear so that it would clear the ground
better. That also would allow room for another antenna on the other side
(and CB or other). Some guys put a skid plate on the frame under the
seats. That would be a good spot and it would do double duty as a flat
ground plane. The whip would stick out through the Stits and be bent
toward the rear. Another possible place is to rivet an alum. bracket to
the fuel tank tray and mount the antenna to that with whip sticking out the
bottom through the Stits. I think a good place for the ELT antenna is just
in front of the vertical stab on top of the boom tube (an ideal spot for
crash survival of the antenna).
Something else I did not do that I think would lessen engine noise was to
shield the engine kill switch wires. I did shield the plug wires (as well
as go to resistor plugs) and that helped a whole lot almost eliminating
engine noise.
The fairing on the rear of the fuselage is sort of a copy of J. Hauck
except mine was bent in a sharp "V" and John's is rounded at the back. The
sides were made of the aluminum sheeting provided for the shear web in the
wing gap seal and the top was a piece of 1/8" Lexan scrap bent to fit as a
cover. The slots for the aileron bell crank serve as stops for the
ailerons. On the inside it is braced from side to side under the slots
with a piece of angle for extra strength against the bell crank force. I
drilled 3 holes in the chromolly tubing on each side of the rear to mount
the fairing and sealed them with silicone caulk.
I don't know if that fairing helps or hurts (looks good though) as far as
prop noise is concerned. I don't have much experience in how loud is LOUD,
but with the IVO 3-bld prop and a headset on, I find the noise level
acceptable.
Later,
--
Cliff & Carolyn Stripling
801 Avenida Serena, Marble Falls, Texas 78654
Vista Del Rio (Central Texas Hill Country)
(830)693-9333 (voice) -7633 (fax)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
bob n wrote:
>
> Can you make a "sandwich" of two 2x4s, w/ flap between, and BIG
> clamp(s)?
>
> How abt a little chiro-adjustmentsickly grin??
>
> GB
Hey Bob,
I'll try this,, thanks..
There is no wrinkle nor kink. Bend is up & down at aabout 10 deg total
convex. Rib gives strength to existence of bend.. Must fight power of
rib to battle bend.
This sounds great.
Thanks again
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglas Nosecone |
Thanks for the kind words, Doc. You're going to give me a swelled head if
you keep it up.
The instrument area on the standard nose cone wasn't big enough for the
instruments I wanted to use, and especially, there is no provision for shock
and vibration absorption. Instruments and radios are delicate. I cut the
fiberglass panel out with a saber saw, leaving about an inch wide rim. Cut
a cardboard trial panel for size, and cut out appropriate shapes and sizes
of cardboard ( posterboard ) to simulate the instruments, etc, and shuffled
them around to get the most compact arrangement. Then cut a new trial panel
out of white fiberglass wallboard, 1/8" thick, mounted the instruments for
a final check, then used that as a pattern to cut out a piece of aluminum
sheet. Faced the sheet with wood grain for appearance, and rivetted an
aluminum angle along the bottom for stiffness. Cut the holes with standard
2 1/4, & 3 1/8 holesaws, IN A DRILLPRESS, which left them a little tight,
and did final honing with a drum sander in a 3/8 drill. I find that I can't
hold the holesaws steady enough by hand, and get a sloppier fit. Then I
used 12 Cessna shock mounts to hold it securely and still soak up vibration.
They are in A/C Spruce, page 300, p/n 10-14700. For me, the hardest part
was getting all the screw holes lined up neatly, in line, and in Exactly the
right spot. Fuss, fuss, fuss. For rectangular holes, I found a handle
that mounts sawzall blades, and used a big hacksaw blade for rough cutting,
then filed down the last 1/16 or so by hand. It's light, strong, looks
good, and floats in rubber. I guess I'm a fanatic about vibration, but I've
sure seen a lot of damage to many things over the years, from vibration.
Remember my big talk about mounting that 16 gal aluminum gas tank in rubber
?? Who wrote the message about "wet on wet" priming with auto primer and
finishing with polytone ?? Sounds real good to me. I've already deleted
it, and can't remember who to give credit to for a great idea.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 1999 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fiberglas Nosecone
>
> Dennis & Diane Kirby wrote:
>
> > Dear Kolb Folks -
> > - - - - help with a couple of items:
> >
> > 1) How do you cut out the instrument holes (incl rectangular hole for
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglas Nosecone |
In a message dated 5/15/99 1:28:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, N51SK(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I shock mounted another surface on the original fiberglas panel (used a
very
nice piece of mahogany plywood) and mounted the instruments to that... >>
I couldn't find a nice piece of wood so I laminated a nice piece of
Cherrywood Formica to a flat piece of aluminum and shock mounted that.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Instrument Panel |
Should have mentioned on my earlier message that I also have pictures of the
panel, ( of course ), that I could e-mail direct to any one interested.
Seems to me I've made that offer before. Oh well, the offer stands.
Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sturgesjim(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/15/99 |
Remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TEAM Aircraft |
In a message dated 5/14/99 8:27:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, mts0140(at)ibm.net
writes:
<< Hi all,
Consider this. There's bankruptcy and then there's bankruptcy.
Chapter 11, Chapter 13, whatever. This does not necessarily mean the
end of Team!
Chapter 11 (I think) allows you to continue to operate even though you
owe more than your assets.
Let's hope this is the plan.
Woody Weaver
>>
Not the point Woody....the rotten guys are destroying the good guys within
the framework of our jurisprudence system which is NOT working anymore
there's sumthin Rotten in Denmark!!
wish I was smart enough to figure out WHAT?..............GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/15/99 |
Was hoping for imput about exhaust silencer for rotax 447. Been using it
with no problem but heard it was not good for it. Any imput. Want to know
if it really does anything other than add weight.
Also, still having trouble with decom radio. tried several antanae including
a booster from radio shack and still same. clear on ground and gets garbled
at a close distance. I recon I will have tohave the radio checked. seems to
work until it gets warm. sent one back to factory for same reason. I hate
radios. any thoughts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglas Nosecone |
Dennis, One of my fellow Kolbers used the "square" style instruments in his
plane while I have always used the round ones. I think the four screws used
to mount the square gages help retain the structual integrity of that thin
fiberglass instrument panel. My clamped-in-place round gages just sort of
hang there and the panel full of instruments is not as ridged as his. I know
the critics will say I should not have a full panel and that maybe a little
flexibility will dampen some of the vibration but next time I will use the
square ones.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/15/99 |
Might sound strange but,what brand of headset are you using?
Rick Webb
-----Original Message-----
From: TCowan1917(at)aol.com <TCowan1917(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, May 16, 1999 1:47 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/15/99
>
>Was hoping for imput about exhaust silencer for rotax 447. Been using it
>with no problem but heard it was not good for it. Any imput. Want to know
>if it really does anything other than add weight.
>Also, still having trouble with decom radio. tried several antanae
including
>a booster from radio shack and still same. clear on ground and gets
garbled
>at a close distance. I recon I will have tohave the radio checked. seems
to
>work until it gets warm. sent one back to factory for same reason. I hate
>radios. any thoughts.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglas Nosecone |
Larry,I sent the posting about the wet-on-wet Poly-Tone.The best primer to
use is epoxy type(2-part).Just make sure you dust the Poly-Tone very quickly
after you prime.That lets the Poly mix in with the primer.Let it set
up,spray your Poly-Tone finish.
Rick Webb
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sunday, May 16, 1999 4:53 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fiberglas Nosecone
>
>Thanks for the kind words, Doc. You're going to give me a swelled head if
>you keep it up.
>The instrument area on the standard nose cone wasn't big enough for the
>instruments I wanted to use, and especially, there is no provision for
shock
>and vibration absorption. Instruments and radios are delicate. I cut the
>fiberglass panel out with a saber saw, leaving about an inch wide rim. Cut
>a cardboard trial panel for size, and cut out appropriate shapes and sizes
>of cardboard ( posterboard ) to simulate the instruments, etc, and shuffled
>them around to get the most compact arrangement. Then cut a new trial
panel
>out of white fiberglass wallboard, 1/8" thick, mounted the instruments for
>a final check, then used that as a pattern to cut out a piece of aluminum
>sheet. Faced the sheet with wood grain for appearance, and rivetted an
>aluminum angle along the bottom for stiffness. Cut the holes with standard
>2 1/4, & 3 1/8 holesaws, IN A DRILLPRESS, which left them a little tight,
>and did final honing with a drum sander in a 3/8 drill. I find that I
can't
>hold the holesaws steady enough by hand, and get a sloppier fit. Then I
>used 12 Cessna shock mounts to hold it securely and still soak up
vibration.
>They are in A/C Spruce, page 300, p/n 10-14700. For me, the hardest part
>was getting all the screw holes lined up neatly, in line, and in Exactly
the
>right spot. Fuss, fuss, fuss. For rectangular holes, I found a handle
>that mounts sawzall blades, and used a big hacksaw blade for rough cutting,
>then filed down the last 1/16 or so by hand. It's light, strong, looks
>good, and floats in rubber. I guess I'm a fanatic about vibration, but
I've
>sure seen a lot of damage to many things over the years, from vibration.
>Remember my big talk about mounting that 16 gal aluminum gas tank in rubber
>?? Who wrote the message about "wet on wet" priming with auto primer and
>finishing with polytone ?? Sounds real good to me. I've already deleted
>it, and can't remember who to give credit to for a great idea.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com>
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, May 15, 1999 9:55 AM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fiberglas Nosecone
>
>
>>
>> Dennis & Diane Kirby wrote:
>>
>> > Dear Kolb Folks -
>> > - - - - help with a couple of items:
>> >
>> > 1) How do you cut out the instrument holes (incl rectangular hole for
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Had gone on a short cross country Tuesday, and on the way home
suddenly began hearing a sound like a cross between static and a metal kazoo.
Engine still ran good, temperatures all OK, clueless, continued toward house,
Three miles to go, and the static/kazoo quit, but the exhaust sounded a bit
louder.
(Good Oregon Aero headsets) Wife was waiting at the hangar when I got home.
"Heard you three miles out", she said. Curved megaphone section of exhaust
had split on both seams, and half way around where it welds to the muffler.
One side was held on just where it is welded to the ball joint cone.
Would have made problems for Mr Ivo's propeller, I bet.
Moral: the static/kazoo might not hurt your engine, but might trash your prop.
Next time I hear it, I will go find a place to land.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42Oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Agnes Nadia <agnesr29(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New Aircraft on the Web |
Kolb-List Digest List
New Aircraft On the Web:
Cristi'S Aircraft Page
http://www.geocities.com/FashionAvenue/Mall/4691/
You will find here american, russian and european
military aircraft (FIGHTERS, BOMBERS, ATTACKERS)
Thank's!
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Agnes Nadia <agnesr29(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New Aircraft on the Web |
Kolb-List Digest List
New Aircraft On the Web:
Cristi'S Aircraft Page
http://www.geocities.com/FashionAvenue/Mall/4691/
You will find here american, russian and european
military aircraft (FIGHTERS, BOMBERS, ATTACKERS)
Thank's!
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Injection & Oil types |
Thompson, Todd wrote:
>
>
> To those of you who question Lockwood's motives: I've read you're
> comments
> regarding the "oil test" thread and find it disapointing that many of
> you
> show such distrust in Lockwood's ability to work independantly of
> Pensoil
> You all are so quick to judge him You have tried and convicted him
> based on you
> conjecture of my statements based on my understanding having sat in a
> seminar. I find this thread very disturbing. I'm wondering what
> has made you people so jaded. Phil only has our best interest at
> heart
I know of bad experiences with this "Pensoil" you wish all of us to
accept.. I also know this list is for "all" of us to voice our opinions.
(isn't that right?) What your statement says is: "Please accept what we
say, as we have run our tests, so don't argue with us." Is this what you
say??? Please correct me if I'm wrong!!!
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andy Bondy" <abondy(at)netcore.ca> |
| Subject: | Questions RE: Mark III |
Dear Kolb-List
A few years ago, I purchased a Mark III kit (Nov.96) and went like
gang-busters doing the construction work,
with a lot-a lot-a help from Woody ( Thank you very much Dick).
However, just after getting the covering and PolyBrush finished, WORK got in
the way ( We needed to eat ),
and the plane sat in my garage for a long while.
Now I have a couple of questions;
1) After sitting for year or two, the fabric is dirty and dusty. What is the
best way and solution for cleaning
the fabric before I get it painted?? Is a mild soapy solution OK the
wash it with??
2) Regarding the gap seal on the wing - aileron - flap, is the seal only put
on the bottom of the wing or
is it also put on the top of the wing. Does the seal have problems when
the wings are folded?
3) I'm having a lot of trouble getting started on the gap seal over top the
cockpit. Trying to layout the
half ribs, and measure and hold them and where does the first rivet go.
The construction plan
- drawings don't seem to indicate for me "What is first". Is there a
procedure to follow for the
construction of the Wing Gap seal??
Thanks for your help
Andy Bondy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <emcole(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | AC43.13 on CD ROM |
From the RV List:
I have copies available with the new version oc AC43.13 1B on CD ROM
The CDROM version has all 617 pages including charts, graphs, and figures.
The format is exactly like the manual, page by page.
The AC 90-89A Amatuer Built Flight Testing Handbook section is very
informative and covers;
Preperation for first flight
Taxi Testing
First Flight
First 10 hrs
Expanding the envelope
It is 100 pages long and contains a great 7 page Conditional Inspection
list that is very thorough.
Copies $10.00 including shipping
Respond off line with your address, check can cross in the mail.
Ed Cole
emcole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust noise |
> Curved megaphone section of exhaust
> had split on both seams, and half way around where it welds to the muffler.
Same thing on the Hirth except mine was on both sides of the 180,
opposite the seams. Seams were fine. Decided to modify the next
tube by splitting a tube and welding it from seam to seam. On
yours, sounds like you could slit a tube, bend it to the seam curve
and weld 'er up.
Vibration....it's a bad thing.....
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Injection & Oil types |
> I find this thread very disturbing. I'm
> wondering what has made you people so jaded. Phil only has our best
> interest at heart and his motivation is to sell the best parts, supplies and
> service to us.
Only one question.....did Phil pay all costs for the test himself?
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Look at this site... |
This is the web site I told you about that has pictures of the instrument
panel moved forward...
http://members.tripod.com/~froghair/cliffs/
It should be a "clickable" link but things sometime just don't work...
Jeremy Casey
Mark3 builder now...Mark3 pilot someday...
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions RE: Mark III |
I'm not sure about the cleaning, Andy, I'll be reading the answers to that
myself. For building the wing gap cover, I used lexan, and tried to build
it on my big bench. Wound up sitting on the floor, holding the pieces in my
lap. It helps to chew real hard on your tongue, at just the right angle.
Measure carefully, and drill carefully. The Irwin shrouded tip drill bits
from Chief Auto Parts do a good job of drilling the plastic without cracking
or splitting. Good Luck. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Bondy <abondy(at)netcore.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 9:49 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Questions RE: Mark III
>
> Dear Kolb-List
>
> A few years ago, I purchased a Mark III kit (Nov.96) and went like
> gang-busters doing the construction work,
> with a lot-a lot-a help from Woody ( Thank you very much Dick).
> However, just after getting the covering and PolyBrush finished, WORK got
in
> the way ( We needed to eat ),
> and the plane sat in my garage for a long while.
> Now I have a couple of questions;
>
> 1) After sitting for year or two, the fabric is dirty and dusty. What is
the
> best way and solution for cleaning
> the fabric before I get it painted?? Is a mild soapy solution OK the
> wash it with??
>
> 2) Regarding the gap seal on the wing - aileron - flap, is the seal only
put
> on the bottom of the wing or
> is it also put on the top of the wing. Does the seal have problems
when
> the wings are folded?
>
> 3) I'm having a lot of trouble getting started on the gap seal over top
the
> cockpit. Trying to layout the
> half ribs, and measure and hold them and where does the first rivet
go.
> The construction plan
> - drawings don't seem to indicate for me "What is first". Is there a
> procedure to follow for the
> construction of the Wing Gap seal??
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> Andy Bondy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions RE: Mark III |
>> 3) I'm having a lot of trouble getting started on the gap seal over top
>the
>> cockpit. Trying to layout the
>> half ribs, and measure and hold them and where does the first rivet
>go.
>> The construction plan
>> - drawings don't seem to indicate for me "What is first". Is there a
>> procedure to follow for the
>> construction of the Wing Gap seal??
>>
>> Thanks for your help
>>
>> Andy Bondy
>>
>
Whats the matter Andy, your finger broken? Get on the phone and I should
be over before you get the beer open. I may not know what I am doing but
that has never stopped me before.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Questions RE: Mark III |
Looking for good one owner Kolb Firestar. Any around?
Email me at: billbeam(at)aol.com
I'm in Kentucky.
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Agnes Nadia <agnesr29(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New Aircraft on the web |
Kolb-List Digest List
New Aircraft On the Web:
Cristi'S Aircraft Page
http://www.geocities.com/FashionAvenue/Mall/4691/
You will find here american, russian and european
military aircraft (FIGHTERS, BOMBERS, ATTACKERS)
Thank's!
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Agnes Nadia <agnesr29(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | New Aircraft on the web |
Kolb-List Digest List
New Aircraft On the Web:
Cristi'S Aircraft Page
http://www.geocities.com/FashionAvenue/Mall/4691/
You will find here american, russian and european
military aircraft (FIGHTERS, BOMBERS, ATTACKERS)
Thank's!
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust noise |
Mr. Poops:
This is an amazing story. My one forced landing with my mark two was a
result of a nearly identical muffler problem. Here is the tough question:
was this a catastrophic event or had it been coming on a for a while? Were
there cracks in the muffler that had ben there for a while that you missed on
the pre flight? After my experience I went to jet hot coating on the muffler
and began carrying a magnifying glass in my flight bag.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Look at this site... |
Sorry !!! That was supposed to go to an individual...PLEASE EXCUSE!
>
>
>This is the web site I told you about that has pictures of the instrument
>panel moved forward...
>
>http://members.tripod.com/~froghair/cliffs/
>
>
>It should be a "clickable" link but things sometime just don't work...
>
>Jeremy Casey
>Mark3 builder now...Mark3 pilot someday...
>
>jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust noise |
Hard to say. I certainly missed it on the preflight, so I don't know if/how
long it was/wasn't cracked.
But the next time I hear the metallic/staticy kazoo, I will be looking for
a place to set down.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Mr. Poops:
>
> This is an amazing story. My one forced landing with my mark two was a
>result of a nearly identical muffler problem. Here is the tough question:
>was this a catastrophic event or had it been coming on a for a while? Were
>there cracks in the muffler that had ben there for a while that you missed on
>the pre flight? After my experience I went to jet hot coating on the muffler
>and began carrying a magnifying glass in my flight bag.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AnvilGil(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/16/99 |
Having raced two cycle motorcycles for many years, my advice is not to change
any exhaust system on a two cycle unless you know it has been engineered by
an expert. It is as easy to reduce your power as it is two increase it.
One of my most powerfull motorcycles was the one with the quietest exhaust
system. It was a Jawa for those interested. The exhaust system is also one
of the best ways to get the very best power from a two cycle, by increasing
the efficiency.
I would be interested in comments about the Kolb ultralite, I'm giving up on
the FAA on getting my medical back.
Gil
\\\\|////
( o o )
--oO0o------U------oO0o---
"You don't stop playing because you grow old
You grow old because you stop playing"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Hello Gang:
I wrote to the list awhile back about wanting a Kolb Firestar II etc.
Well today is Christmas in May for me. I don't have a Firestar yet but I
have something to get started with. It's a 1988 model Twinstar II with a 503
dual carb, electric start, BRS, brakes, trim tab on elev., fully enclosed,
streamline struts, wheel pants and a trailer to haul it on. It does have
quite a bit of hanger rash as it's been sitting up for a year or so. Also
during our last hurricane this past Oct. a limb fell through the hanger it
was in and tore a hole in the fabric on top of the port wing. I have already
talked to Ronnie Smith at South Ms. Ultralights and he is going to give it a
good checking out. He has flown the plane before and said it is a good
flyer. I will probably fly it this summer and fall and then recover it. Any
way I won't have to wait too long before getting in the air now. I still
plan on building that Firestar II as I like that "bugs in the teeth" kind of
feeling and the smaller size.
On a different note, I would like to express my regret to Ben Ransom on
his loss. His plane was something to envy. I sincerely hope he gets it back
together and continues to contribute to the U/L community and the Kolb list.
It would be big blow to us if you left, Ben.
Well thats it for now!
P.S. I have done flew that sucker about 500 miles and never left the back
yard.
Ya'll have a great day,
John Cooley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
Hello,
Just wanted to report on the new 3 blade IVO that I tried for the 1st time
tonight... after using a 2 blade Tennessee wood. What a difference!
Quieter by far, and definitely smoother (the two go together to complement
each other). Will make a minor pitch adj tomorrow... RPMs a little high ..
pretty easy to adjust! FYI, the reason I bought the IVO was simply because
of the gouges I was getting on the wood prop from all of rough field
landings and associated dirt/rocks flying around. Undoubtedly the best
investment so far!
On another note, Being too eager to get flying after the rebuild from last
year's wind damage. I have been flying without the aileron/wing gap tape in
place..... today was also the 1st flight after installing the gap seal...
what a difference that made! The force on the stick to bank the plane was
reduced by at least a third.. very significant... would never have guessed.
So, for all who were asking about leaving it off... it DOES make a
difference! Am using the 3" book binding tape with a 1" front to front down
the middle, applied to the TOP so as to use one single 8' long piece on both
wings... looks nice, nearly invisible. Thanks to the list for that
suggestion...!
Jon
near Greenbay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <d-watson(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb wannabe |
I guess I should pass on to the list that I also had Christmas in May.
Picked up a beautiful Firestar on Monday, came with a fully enclosed
trailer, dual carb 503,streamlined struts,full enclosure,BRS,Electronic Eng.
monitoring sys., alt., airspeed, compass, turn and bank ind., GPS, brakes
and to top it off, my wife even said it was really pretty!...... Now all I
have to do is finish up my training in the S-12 and do a lot of taxing to
get used to the tail dragger. .......Anyone want to buy a really nice
Quicksilver???
.......Dennis (In MD.)...No longer a Kolb wannabe
P.S. I only got to fly 50 miles without leaving the back yard before the
wife grabbed me to help trim the shrubs around the house........grounded
again!!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cooley <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 11:06 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb wannabe
>
>Hello Gang:
>
> I wrote to the list awhile back about wanting a Kolb Firestar II etc.
>Well today is Christmas in May for me. I don't have a Firestar yet but I
>have something to get started with. It's a 1988 model Twinstar II with a
503
>dual carb, electric start, BRS, brakes, trim tab on elev., fully enclosed,
>streamline struts, wheel pants and a trailer to haul it on. It does have
>quite a bit of hanger rash as it's been sitting up for a year or so. Also
>during our last hurricane this past Oct. a limb fell through the hanger it
>was in and tore a hole in the fabric on top of the port wing. I have
already
>talked to Ronnie Smith at South Ms. Ultralights and he is going to give it
a
>good checking out. He has flown the plane before and said it is a good
>flyer. I will probably fly it this summer and fall and then recover it. Any
>way I won't have to wait too long before getting in the air now. I still
>plan on building that Firestar II as I like that "bugs in the teeth" kind
of
>feeling and the smaller size.
> On a different note, I would like to express my regret to Ben Ransom on
>his loss. His plane was something to envy. I sincerely hope he gets it back
>together and continues to contribute to the U/L community and the Kolb
list.
>It would be big blow to us if you left, Ben.
> Well thats it for now!
>
>P.S. I have done flew that sucker about 500 miles and never left the back
>yard.
>
>Ya'll have a great day,
>John Cooley
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net> |
Hello again,
We just started the covering process and of course already have
questions. We are wondering what everyone has done about the ribs in the
control surfaces. Should we cover them with surface tape or leave them
alone? If we use the surface tapes over them do we do both sides of the
surface even though the ribs only touch on one side?
I just watched the covering video lastnight and they say it's optional,
but would like to hear from those who have some time on their aircraft
as to which way is prefered.
Thanks in advance,
PaulV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Flight test: Balanced wheels |
Last year I had MAJOR vibration in the wheels, most noticable just after
liftoff. It was not detectable on the ground but was quite distracting during
the first 5-8 seconds of climbout. It also shook the instrument panel badly.
This winter I balanced the wheels and it has completely cured the problem.
The wheels are Cheng Chin 6" tires on Matco aluminum rims. These are the ones
supplied with the MKiii if you buy the hydraulic brakes system.
I used a simple bubble balancer that I had bought years ago from J.C. Whitney
for car tires and determined that to balance by adding 1/4" steel washers to one
of the bolts that hold the rim to the hub it was going to require 25 of them for
each wheel! Obviously this was because the bolts are too close to the center
for effectiveness. So I began looking for a better way. Someone on this list
had suggested putting stick-on weights on the rims but I couldn't locate them.
And I am always fanatical about weight addition to the plane, so I decided to
REMOVE weight instead, to obtain proper balance. I actually removed tire rubber
with a grinder to obtain the proper balance! I used a 4" Makita handheld
grinder to make additional grooves in the tires, parallel to the original tire
ribs. It required grooves in each rib, 3/16" deep and 1/4" wide, for a distance
of 8 or so inches around, on each tire, to balance. This does not look as crude
as it sounds and if I didn't tell you about it you may not even notice it while
looking at the plane. I was careful to keep the grooves neat and parallel to
the ribs and I waxed them after grinding to eliminate the sticky raw rubber
effect so they don't pickup dirt. These Cheng Chin tires are real cheap and
there is a noticable bump in them, presumably where some plies overlap in their
construction. Not surprisingly, this bump was on the side of the tire that
needed mass removed, in both tires I checked. And both tires had about the same
amount of imbalance.
Balance problem is gone! Instruments are thanking me for it. No more
distracting vibrations and noises at liftoff. Less than zero weight added (I
wish I could come up with more ideas that actually REMOVED weight from the
plane!). If you are having this problem, I suggest you balance, whatever the
method you'll appreciate the results.
jim (smooth-rolling MKiii)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tony.deb" <tony.deb(at)cwix.com> |
Jon Croke
Where does one get the book binding tape? please explain " 1" front to front
down the middle". Did you paint the tape?--Thanks in advance.
Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Croke <joncroke(at)itol.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:50 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: New Prop
>
>Hello,
>
>Just wanted to report on the new 3 blade IVO that I tried for the 1st time
>tonight... after using a 2 blade Tennessee wood. What a difference!
>Quieter by far, and definitely smoother (the two go together to complement
>each other). Will make a minor pitch adj tomorrow... RPMs a little high ..
>pretty easy to adjust! FYI, the reason I bought the IVO was simply because
>of the gouges I was getting on the wood prop from all of rough field
>landings and associated dirt/rocks flying around. Undoubtedly the best
>investment so far!
>
>On another note, Being too eager to get flying after the rebuild from last
>year's wind damage. I have been flying without the aileron/wing gap tape in
>place..... today was also the 1st flight after installing the gap seal...
>what a difference that made! The force on the stick to bank the plane was
>reduced by at least a third.. very significant... would never have guessed.
>So, for all who were asking about leaving it off... it DOES make a
>difference! Am using the 3" book binding tape with a 1" front to front
down
>the middle, applied to the TOP so as to use one single 8' long piece on
both
>wings... looks nice, nearly invisible. Thanks to the list for that
>suggestion...!
>
>Jon
>near Greenbay
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/17/99 |
My two cents. Litigation is something we may all face in this sue-happy
society. And since the oil is the life-blood of the two-cycle, I for one read
the posts concerning it with great interest. I hope they continue.
To Ben, sorry to hear
about your misfortune. I feel confident you will rebuild your Firestar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rayfield, Don" <drayfiel(at)kcc.com> |
I got the name and number of the bookbinding tape off of the archives. I
think it is 3M Book Binding tape #845. It is available at or thru Office
supply stores and it comes in 1,2,and 3" widths. I took 1" and taped it in
the center of 3" stickysides together and then used the excess on the 3" to
stick it to the fabric covering. One roll of each width will do an entire
wing with plenty left over.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: tony.deb <tony.deb(at)cwix.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: New Prop
>
>Jon Croke
>Where does one get the book binding tape? please explain " 1" front to
front
>down the middle". Did you paint the tape?--Thanks in advance.
> Tony
Don says it all in his post.... Ill just add that you do not paint the tape
(its clear) and the 1" keeps dirt from sticking to the part that lies
between the wing and aileron!
I got the name and number of the bookbinding tape off of the archives. I
think it is 3M Book Binding tape #845. It is available at or thru Office
supply stores and it comes in 1,2,and 3" widths. I took 1" and taped it in
the center of 3" stickysides together and then used the excess on the 3" to
stick it to the fabric covering. One roll of each width will do an entire
wing with plenty left over.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TEAM Aircraft |
This was posted on the ultralight news group
Subject: The TEAM Affair
From: "J.R. Campbell, Publisher" <publisher(at)av8r.net>
Date: 5/18/99 1:13 PM Mountain Daylight Time
The TEAM Affair
For those of you who have been following the many published remarks
concerning the impending bankruptcy of TEAM Aircraft, I'd like to take
the time to fill you in on the results of our investigations thus far.
Please be advised that this is nothing more than our first look into the
matter and subsequent investigations may reveal a lot more, pro and con,
about this case.
I've had the chance to conduct initial interviews with Wayne Ison of
TEAM Aircraft and a George A. Martz of Davenport, Florida, who sued
Mr. Ison and TEAM Aircraft following a 1996 Air-Bike accident. I have
also had the chance to inspect a number of court related records and
speak to experts associated with the case. I am at an very early stage
in looking all this over, and the details are plentiful.
So far, it appears that TEAM Aircraft and Mr. Ison have prevailed in a
lawsuit that was filed several years ago by Mr. Martz and concluded
via arbitration. The attorneys appointed to that panel apparently found
in favor of TEAM Aircraft. Mr. Martz and his attorney
Mr. Bill Wagner (of Wagner, Vaughan, and McLaughlin of Tampa, Florida),
have apparently filed yet another lawsuit, apparently unsatisfied with
what has occurred so for.
If I understand the matter correctly, Mr. Martz took off early one
morning to attend an aviation event and subsequently impacted the ground
at a highly negative angle and a somewhat significant rate of speed.
Damage to Mr. Martz was a significant, and the damage to the Air Bike
was as well. It was claimed by Mr. Wagner (in a June 1997 latter) that
the crash occurred as a "result of the failure of the trailing wing spar
due to inadequate glue or bonding material on the spar. In the resulting
crash, Mr. Martz suffered significant fractures to all four of his
limbs, compression fractures of the back, and rib fractures."
Correspondence between attorney Wagner and TEAM Aircraft initially
sought the name of TEAM Aircraft's liability insurance carrier. Wagner
warned TEAM of the legal repercussions of failing to notify Mr. Wagner
as to the identity of same (quoting FL St. 627.4137). Mr. Ison has
indicated to us that he has repeatedly informed Mr. Wagner that he has
no such insurance and has gone to great lengths to prove that he does
not carry any liability coverage. Ison further asserts that no such
coverage is available ("I don't think he really believed me when I told
him that," says Ison). TEAM's claim of "running naked" as far as the use
or carriage of such liability insurance, has apparently been called into
question a number of times and it appears that it took quite a bit to
convince the suing parties that TEAM Aircraft, in fact, had no such
insurance. Others have assumed that this case may have been undertaken
on the assumption that such insurance would have made for an easy
target... but since it does not exist, one has to wonder why this suit
is being pursued.
I have had the chance to inspect data presented in this matter by
experts in the type of construction and materials used on the TEAM
Aircraft Air Bike. I have inspected representative samples of
the rear spar assembly that has been blamed for the crash.
Please note that the wreckage of the aircraft was removed without expert
examination, FAA or NTSB inspection, or any opportunity by TEAM
officials to go over the impact site or the wreckage prior to its
removal to another location, and that critical evidence concerning the
cause of this accident may have been destroyed as a result. Further;
TEAM's access to information about the crash and the wreckage, itself,
appears to be quite limited.
The focus of Wagner's lawsuit appears to be in regards to the Martz
purchase of a pre-built spar option. This is the one portion of the
aircraft that was not built by Mr. Martz, and is in fact built by a
subcontractor of TEAM's. Some 100 pre-built spar's have been supplied
thus far, and according to TEAM, there have been no records of failure
and no record of improper or insufficient quality during the inspections
that TEAM conducts prior to shipment to their customers. No customers
have reported any complaints about such pre-built assemblies until the
Martz crash. Their complaint with the pre-built spar seems to center
around whether or not the thin plywood shear web was properly
adhered/glued to the upper and lower portions of the spar. Having
inspected several such assemblies at the factory, it would not be hard
for TEAM or for Mr. Martz to see that these assemblies were glued
properly and that excess glue from the junction of spar and shear web
would be visible on either side of the adhered assembly.
I am finding a lot of questions in this case... and it is particularly
troublesome when you consider the fact that the impact of this scenario
has literally driven one of the industry's finest companies to the brink
of bankruptcy, and that this company has possibly one of the finest
records for customer service and satisfaction of all the companies we
have ever evaluated.
I have also flown virtually everything that Mr. Ison has designed and
that TEAM Aircraft has manufactured, and found their aircraft and their
performance, capabilities, handling, and structures to be more than up
to the task of the rigorous flight test maneuvers (or just plain old
screwing around) that I tend to subject these aircraft to.
It is entirely possible that Mr. Martz has a proper cause of action
here, but so far, I do not see any significant evidence of such. Mr.
Martz indicated to me that he heard the spar crack prior to his accident
and I have a hard time understanding how anybody would hear something
like that when they are sitting right behind a Rotax 447 developing
take-off power. Further, I have seen evidence to suggest that even if
the shear web and rear spar assembly were not properly adhered, that's
the resultant assembly still should have been capable of sustaining
normal in-flight loads. There are a number of other questions that have
arisen during my limited inquiry into this matter... but you get the
idea... this thing does appear kinda shaky.
One final thought to consider at this point... Mr. Wagner has expanded a
considerable amount of energy on behalf of his client, Mr. Martz. TEAM
Aircraft is uninsured, has never made a whole lot of money, and
possesses very little in the way of assets. I do not see how Mr. Wagner
can recover much from TEAM, and may not even be able to recover enough,
should he somehow prevail in this second lawsuit, to even meet the
expenses of this litigation.
Mr. Ison, who has never misled me or acted dishonestly in any of the
many communications we have shared in over a decade of discussions,
indicates that he would like to try to save his company... though at
this time he has lost three critical employees because of this
litigation, and that regardless of what occurs, the future looks very
dim. Further; he can not yet pay the legal bills from the suit he won
much less the one that is now pending.
I hate to see this happen. I have strong suspicions that this litigation
is pointless (as is much of it, these days). And I have strong feelings
that the only thing that is going to occur here is the that a number of
people (especially TEAM's many fans and customers) will be further
victimized, and that no one will win. As Mr. Ison has said, "it is sure
a shame that one man can ruin this for everyone." I tend to agree.
Note: If you have any questions or data to add to this matter, please
e-mail me directly at usav8r(at)gate.net
--
Jim Campbell, Publisher, US Aviator
Copyright 1999, All Rights Reserved
http://www.av8r.net
http://www.kindredspirit.com
http://www.sportplane.com
"To sin by silence when they should protest,
makes cowards of men." -Abraham Lincoln
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tape & First Flight |
Kolbers
I just went through the tape R&R and have found a good solution. I used sail
(boat) repair tape. It is lighter, sticker, more flexable, and stronger than
book binding tape. Also it' will not tear. The tape comes in 15' rolls in 2
and 3 inches. It's not found in regular marine stores, unless they have
sailboat rigging supplies. You don't have to use a 1" tape in the
middle....just put baby powder on the sticky part. The baby powder is so
fine, you will never believe the tape was sticky in that spot. I learned
this trick from Chris Martin, another Miami Kolber.
GOOD NEWS, after one year and five months, 650 hours my Mk III w/912 is ready
to fly this Saturday. My friend, who has owned 3 different ultra light planes
was trained by Kolb at this years Sun-n-Fun in the plane Peter
purchashed.....so he's the test pilot. EAA Tech Advisor and Flight Advisor
have been working with us on all the final details.
Rich Bragassa
N8160Z
Miami, Fl
lrb1476(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight test: Balanced wheels |
Just more of that great JUNK from China, eh ?? Billions of dollars in
trade, all one way, and look how quick they are to try and crucify us at
every opportunity. It's impossible to NOT buy at least some Chinese crap
these days, but I make every effort to avoid it - and the good stuff doesn't
cost much more. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 5:22 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Flight test: Balanced wheels
>
> Last year I had MAJOR vibration in the wheels, most noticable just after
> liftoff. It was not detectable on the ground but was quite distracting
during
> the first 5-8 seconds of climbout. It also shook the instrument panel
badly.
> This winter I balanced the wheels and it has completely cured the problem.
> The wheels are Cheng Chin 6" tires on Matco aluminum rims. These are the
ones
> supplied with the MKiii if you buy the hydraulic brakes system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/17/99 |
I also agree with you.We all use oil in our Kolbs and I want to know about
it!
Rick Webb
-----Original Message-----
From: BKlebon(at)aol.com <BKlebon(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/17/99
>
> My two cents. Litigation is something we may all face in this sue-happy
>society. And since the oil is the life-blood of the two-cycle, I for one
read
>the posts concerning it with great interest. I hope they continue.
> To Ben, sorry to
hear
>about your misfortune. I feel confident you will rebuild your Firestar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/19/99 |
My two cents .01. Don't get me wrong people. I want to hear about what
keeps us going and in the air. I just don't think hanger talk does any good
about litigation when no one knew the circumstances and cutting someone up
because you think they could be bias does any good. I really enjoyed the
article about the litigation (facts, ma'am, just the facts) Pensoil gave a
program about the new oil developments in Miss last fall and was quite
informative. They gave us all nice little tool thingies and stuff but that
would not make me bias. I use it cause it works. I hope I don't seem
prejudiced or anything. Sorry for taking up space. You people really are
great. I read every time published. thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Control surface covering and gap seal tape |
I did not use tape on the leading edges of the ribs, but I did overlap
the covering so the leading edges (including the ribs) is covered by 2
layers of fabric. I used the bent tube method on the trailing edge and
used no tape there.
Is this sail boat tape white or clear? My airplane is blue, so white
tape may stick out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Question: Fuel storage. |
I have a 30 gallon drum for my unmixed gasoline storage. It has a crank-pump
screwed into one of the bung holes of the drum, and a plug in the 1" hole of the
drum. I mounted the drum on an old lawn mower deck, so I can drag it around,
that part works great. My question is, Should I keep this tightly sealed to
prevent moisture, or will the drum expand from temperature change in the hangar
and get bent out and possible rupture? It can be sealed very well, but I am
guessing this will cause me trouble. On the other hand, I want it sealed so the
fuel does not attract moisture ( I assume it has at least 5 percent alcohol in
it). I am using amoco premium. Is there some kind of pressure-relief valve
available, or do I leave the cover slightly loose? It is so rainy and humid
lately so I hate to leave the cover loose. Any ideas???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions RE: Mark III |
Andy Bondy wrote:
>
> 3) I'm having a lot of trouble getting started on the gap seal over top the
> cockpit.
==================================
Andy -
Try this: Make the shear web first - the rectangular truss structure
make from half-inch angle. Then lay out (i.e. draw) the plan view of
the gap seal on your workbench. Use a carpenter's square to ensure
things are nicely perpendicular where they're supposed to be. I drilled
a small hole near each end of the curved alum leading edge piece, on the
bottom side. Then I actually screwed it to the workbench to hold it
down. That made it easy to then bring in the other 4 pieces (3 half
ribs and the web) and line everything up. Your first rivet (again,
after the shear web is made) would be to attach the front ends of the
half ribs to the curved leading edge piece. When these are secured,
then attach the web to the half ribs. Take 'er from there!
Hope this helps.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, approx 70% complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tony.deb" <tony.deb(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control surface covering and gap seal tape |
I've found it in red -blue- white--3''By 15' for $7 a roll at most Marine
Stores--What I need to know is do you stick it over the hinge to wing and
airleron an with airleron in full down position,an if so won't it be
wrinkled when level? Thanks again in advanced
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 7:31 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Control surface covering and gap seal tape
>
>I did not use tape on the leading edges of the ribs, but I did overlap
>the covering so the leading edges (including the ribs) is covered by 2
>layers of fabric. I used the bent tube method on the trailing edge and
>used no tape there.
>
>Is this sail boat tape white or clear? My airplane is blue, so white
>tape may stick out.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions RE: Mark III |
> Andy Bondy wrote:
> >
>
> > 3) I'm having a lot of trouble getting started on the gap seal over
> top the
> > cockpit.
> ==================================
Okay Andy, I remember this portion as trying to build a bridge with
nothing connected so the bridge keeps falling down.
Here's what I did, I first connected the wings to the fus cage. I
measured the distance between the leading edges and the trailing
edges... I then transfered these dimensions to the "Lexon" (or whatever
you use) for the gap seal. I allowed for the overlap, and marked off
for clearance between the two inboard ribs for ease of removal. I
predrilled the half-ribs, then placed one half-rib on my clearance mark
and marked where it needed to be drilled at the leading location. I
drilled that one mark.. I then mounted the Lexon over the half-rib with
a cleco.. This one hole was now held in place. I bent the Lexon around
the rib and drilled thru into the trailing hole and cleco'ed there. Now
the Lexon was holding it's shape over this one rib.. I repeated this on
the other outboard half-rib. Then I finally did this with the inner
half-rib. Once the Lexon held it's shape, I could fit it in place and
confirm the mark where the braces should be. With the confirmation, you
can gradually mount all. If you are having the VLS system of BRS,, you
will have to accomodate for this also, so don't forget it...
In general, as you build this, it will be a shakey mess until you get
enough together that it begins to support itself. The cleco's are a
must, for this construction.
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Control surface covering and gap seal tape |
Put a peice 1' long (as a test) where your going to try it, and see how it
will flex. I did nor cover my hinges
Rich Bragassa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel gage installation |
I installed one of those capacitance fuel gages on my FireFly a few weeks ago
and learned a few things that may be usefull to others. I used the standard
12" probe because it was the correct length for my standard Kolb 5 gallon
tank. I don't have a battery so it would have to run on my 12 v power supply.
The sensor installation requires cutting an ~ 2" hole in the top of the tank.
After thinking about contamination from hole saw cuttings I cut it with one
of those heavy duty "Exacto" knives. No problem. The rest of the installation
and wiring were per the directions. When I finished all was great except it
didn't work..
I temporarily connected my 12v radio battery for test power and, on the
advice from Lockwood, I tweeked the "Empty" calibration screw untill the dial
showed 0 with no gas. I then filled the tank tweeked the "Full" calibration
screw to show full. I now have about four more hours on her and the gage
works perfectly. This procedure is not covered in the instructions I suspect
it is required on all installations regardless of wheather or not you use the
long probe and cut it to fit your tank or if you use the standard probe as I
did.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Boy, have I got one for you guys. I mentioned some time ago that I want to
put an outside fuel filler on my Mk III. The one I've seen ( supplied with
a friends' [nameless] plane ) is listed on page 159 of the new Spruce
catalog, lower right corner. Part no. 05-28662. Beautiful component. I
plan on mounting it to an aluminum plate behind my head, ( while sitting in
the plane, idiot ), and installing a tube from the filler to the 16 gal.
aluminum tank in my Mk III. There lies the problem. Filler takes a 1 1/2"
I.D. plastic hose, and clamp. Kolb tank has a female threaded 2 3/8 flange
welded onto the tank, with a male threaded insert screwed into it. The gas
cap locks onto that insert. Where can I find, or what can I use for an
adapter from 1 1/2 hose to 2 3/8 super fine thread ?? I hit A/C Spruce and
bounced. Any ideas ?? Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)tcac.net> |
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Connecting E.I.S. to Rotax 447 |
Kolbers:
Am working through wiring up the EIS to the 447 on what I still laughingly
refer to as my airplane, and was unable to reach Greg up at the EIS shop
this morning... lucky devil must get Saturdays off... Anyway, my question
is about the "power converter module" shown for wiring the power to an EIS
on an acft without a battery to the lighting coil on the engine (depicted in
figure 6 in the EIS manual, but not specifically explained or
nomenclatured)... Is that "module" nothing more than a full wave rectifier
such as the Radio Shack item 276-1171 shown in the Kolb book to convert the
lighting coil AC to DC for powering the Hobbs meter? If not, what are you
gents using for this "power converter" application? ...(and where can I get
one...?)
Also, I know that some of you crafty devils have wired up a remote button to
advance the EIS screen display from the luxurious, reclined comfort of the
seat, thus avoiding the nasty little gymnastic drill involved in reaching
out for the panel button... EIS doesn't mention this one in the manual
either... Would one of you who has worked through this be kind enough to
tell me how to hook up the button...?
Any and all help / information would be greatly appreciated...
Bill Tuton
The Aluminum Butcher of Brandon
still working FF-076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Connecting E.I.S. to Rotax 447 |
>
>Also, I know that some of you crafty devils have wired up a remote button to
>advance the EIS screen display from the luxurious, reclined comfort of the
>seat, thus avoiding the nasty little gymnastic drill involved in reaching
>out for the panel button... EIS doesn't mention this one in the manual
>either... Would one of you who has worked through this be kind enough to
>tell me how to hook up the button...?
>
I think that if you did not order the EIS with the remote button wiring
(three wires coming out of the back) you may not be able to wire it
yourself without taking the box apart. Don't know how to do that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Yates <johny(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Connecting E.I.S. to Rotax 447 |
Beauford Tuton wrote:
>
> Kolbers:
> Am working through wiring up the EIS to the 447 on what I still laughingly
> refer to as my airplane, and was unable to reach Greg up at the EIS shop
> this morning... lucky devil must get Saturdays off... Anyway, my question
> is about the "power converter module" shown for wiring the power to an EIS
> on an acft without a battery to the lighting coil on the engine (depicted in
> figure 6 in the EIS manual, but not specifically explained or
> nomenclatured)... Is that "module" nothing more than a full wave rectifier
> such as the Radio Shack item 276-1171 shown in the Kolb book to convert the
> lighting coil AC to DC for powering the Hobbs meter? If not, what are you
> gents using for this "power converter" application? ...(and where can I get
> one...?)
Order the new type power converter from Greg he does not use the older style any
more. No the little Radio shack would not cut it for the EIS. That works fine for
a hobbs though. A hobbs can use voltage from 12-30 and not burn up.
>
>
> Also, I know that some of you crafty devils have wired up a remote button to
> advance the EIS screen display from the luxurious, reclined comfort of the
> seat, thus avoiding the nasty little gymnastic drill involved in reaching
> out for the panel button... EIS doesn't mention this one in the manual
> either... Would one of you who has worked through this be kind enough to
> tell me how to hook up the button...?
It is for sure printed on one of the EIS sheets there is 3 wires if memory serves
me well that come out of the back of the unit orange, blue, & yellow I think. on
of those wires goes to the switch for paging through the screens. I am not at the
shop now and don't have one to look at.
John
>
>
> Any and all help / information would be greatly appreciated...
>
> Bill Tuton
> The Aluminum Butcher of Brandon
> still working FF-076
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio Amp. |
In a message dated 5/13/99 9:21:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rick106(at)juno.com
writes:
Ron
I will be waiting to hear how you like your unit I hope that it dose the
job for you if you think that it works at least 1/2 as they say I will
get one to and try it out
Rick Libersat
===========================================
Rick;
I received the amplifier and gave it a quick try; I started the engine and
called the tower with a "before" test and an "after" test. They couldn't
discern any difference; both transmissions were "scratchy." Then I did a
test with the tower with the handheld radio only but this time with the
engine running for a "before" test and with it shut down for an "after" test.
This time they reported a big difference in the quality of the signal - the
engine off condition was significantly better. I am now certain that my
problem is related to engine noise leaking into my stereo intercom system.
My next test will be to get an adapter so that I can connect my
microphone/headset directly into the radio and then test with the engine on &
off. This test will confirm that the problem is in the intercom system
rather than the antenna system.
As soon as I can get this problem fixed, I'll test the amp. in flight and
provide you with a performance report. The amplifier is really a neat little
unit, although a bit expensive at $200 plus tax, but if it will permit me to
reach towers 20 miles away, I'll keep it. It is interesting in that it has
ZERO current draw when you are not transmitting; this means the unit can be
permanently connected to aircraft power without an on/off switch. When the
unit senses about 1/8 watt of RF energy on the input side, it turns itself on
to amplify the signal. Neat, hummm?
More later - - -
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
Sometime back we discussed wheel bearings. I wrote the number down
somewhere for the cheaper set, but I'll be---- if I can find it now.My
original ones are not going to go much longer.I'd appreciate it if
someone would give me the no. Thanks in advance.
About 8 hrs on the 3 so far.Don't these babys like the
gasoline.Later.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Dell Vinal wrote:
>
>
> Sometime back we discussed wheel bearings. I wrote the number down
> somewhere for the cheaper set, but I'll be---- if I can find it now.My
> original ones are not going to go much longer.I'd appreciate it if
> someone would give me the no. Thanks in advance.
> About 8 hrs on the 3 so far.Don't these babys like the
> gasoline.Later.
Dell:
If you don't get the number for the bearings try the Kolb
List Archives. Just got 39 hits in 1 second on "wheel
bearings."
http://www.matronics.com/archives
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
Thanks John. I Just wasn't thinking enough when I fired that
message. I archive swearched and found 4995-02H to be the no.Duhhhhhh.Do
not archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
FYI
I have been having trouble starting the 377 on my Original Firestar for some
time now. Once started the engine would run fine with the exception of idle
which it wouldn't have anything to do with.
I finally found a plug cap that ohmed open. Apparently the resister failed
(broke) but the pieces stayed put so the high voltage would jump the gap.
Replaced the cap and she runs great. Starts first pull and idles like it should.
Flew the plane 100 miles round trip today to a flyin and it ran flawless.
Hey John Jung just wanted to let you know with all the rain we've had this
spring the East 150 foot of my runway has been swamp. I have been successfully
using the remaining 350 foot. Goodness, I love this airplane!!!
Adam
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
Dear Kolb List:
I use this time to inform you that I just visited Big Lar, and have this
to say for the benifit of your information.. Especially if you are still
in the building stage.
If you are looking for improvements on the "basic" Kolb concept, Big Lar
has removable bucket seats, a removable instrument panel and a few other
gadgets that may well be worth your benifit to question about.... My
MKIII is per Kolb, and isn't as dazzling as his, (but as I told Big
Lar,,,,) MINE IS FLYING!!!!!
Seriously, folks.... I wish I could have seen his plane prior to
finishing mine. If you want to know about some modifications,, talk to
him,,, it's worth it...
Regards
Doc
(P.S. Big Lar claims not to be an engineer, yet he does use the thought
concepts used in engineering... )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sturgesjim(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/22/99 |
Remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrio Taucer <adrio(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio Amp. |
I have been off the list for a while so I may have missed the beginning
of this thread, if so I apologize in advance for any duplication.
One thing to consider when trying to improve the transmission "power"
from a radio is that it is less costly and more efficient to do it by
antenna design. This method also gives the added benefit of improving
your reception by the same amount (as well as improving your received
signal to noise ratio). You may want to consider looking for a high
gain antenna to spend that $200 (or part of it) towards rather than an
amp. This is free power and does not tax your electrical system either.
We all like the Tim Taylor "MORE POWER" but sometimes the way to get the
power is the trick.
I am sure the other amateur radio folks on the list may have something
to add.
Adrio
RLCPTL(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 5/13/99 9:21:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rick106(at)juno.com
> writes:
>
> Ron
> I will be waiting to hear how you like your unit I hope that it dose the
> job for you if you think that it works at least 1/2 as they say I will
> get one to and try it out
>
> Rick Libersat
> ===========================================
> Rick;
> I received the amplifier and gave it a quick try; I started the engine and
> called the tower with a "before" test and an "after" test. They couldn't
> discern any difference; both transmissions were "scratchy." Then I did a
> test with the tower with the handheld radio only but this time with the
> engine running for a "before" test and with it shut down for an "after" test.
> This time they reported a big difference in the quality of the signal - the
> engine off condition was significantly better. I am now certain that my
> problem is related to engine noise leaking into my stereo intercom system.
> My next test will be to get an adapter so that I can connect my
> microphone/headset directly into the radio and then test with the engine on &
> off. This test will confirm that the problem is in the intercom system
> rather than the antenna system.
>
> As soon as I can get this problem fixed, I'll test the amp. in flight and
> provide you with a performance report. The amplifier is really a neat little
> unit, although a bit expensive at $200 plus tax, but if it will permit me to
> reach towers 20 miles away, I'll keep it. It is interesting in that it has
> ZERO current draw when you are not transmitting; this means the unit can be
> permanently connected to aircraft power without an on/off switch. When the
> unit senses about 1/8 watt of RF energy on the input side, it turns itself on
> to amplify the signal. Neat, hummm?
>
> More later - - -
> Ron Christensen
> MKIII1/2
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
Hi All:
I see that Big Lar has installed removable bucket seats in his airplane.
Sounds interesting. I am looking for something more supportive for my aging
6' 220# frame. I saw an old post where someone had "Nelson Flight Seats"
installed. Any suggestions for seats will be appreciated.
Thanks
Bill George
Mk-3, 582, soon-to-be-replaced Ivo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron counter weights |
Hello everyone,
I'm looking for opinions on the use of aileron counter weights on our
MKIII. It has been built as per the plans, but would like some advice
whether or not aileron counter weights would be needed.
Thanks in advance
PaulV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio Amp. |
> The amplifier is really a neat little
> unit, although a bit expensive at $200 plus tax, but if it will permit me to
> reach towers 20 miles away, I'll keep it.
I'm able to talk to FSS , towers, and centers at 50-60 miles out
with my KLX100...no ign shielding of any sort, homemade antenna
tuned w/SWR meter. Either just lucky or.....lucky......
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio Amp. |
That sounds great Jim, but how did you go about it ?? What are the
specifics ?? Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Baker <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 1999 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Handheld Radio Amp.
>
> > The amplifier is really a neat little
> > unit, although a bit expensive at $200 plus tax, but if it will permit
me to
> > reach towers 20 miles away, I'll keep it.
>
> I'm able to talk to FSS , towers, and centers at 50-60 miles out
> with my KLX100...no ign shielding of any sort, homemade antenna
> tuned w/SWR meter. Either just lucky or.....lucky......
> J. Baker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Bill: I went to the local dune buggy shop, and got a pair of light
fiberglass shells, and had the snap in upholstery ordered for them. They
weigh about 6 lb. each, and are very comfy. I used light weight angle
aluminum for a base and mount. This time, if someone wants pics, I'll have
to take some, since I only have pics of the seats installed, not of the
actual mounting brackets.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WGeorge737(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 1999 10:04 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: MK-3 seats
>
> Hi All:
>
> I see that Big Lar has installed removable bucket seats in his airplane.
> Sounds interesting. I am looking for something more supportive for my
aging
> 6' 220# frame. I saw an old post where someone had "Nelson Flight Seats"
> installed. Any suggestions for seats will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill George
> Mk-3, 582, soon-to-be-replaced Ivo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
Hey, Fellow Kolbers -
I am in the process of installing the nosecone and floorpans in my
Mark-III and have come upon a situation that I'd like to get some folks'
advice on. I am installing the Matco hydraulic brakes in my airplane.
If built according to plans, after everything is done, the two brake
cylinders will end up with no access to them. Riveted floor pans on
top, fabric covering underneath. My concern is having no access to
these cylinders in the future, in case I need to remove or service the
brake cylinders. I am a believer in having a way to access EVERY piece
of equipment on an airplane, because you never know when ol' Murphy will
intervene. I am either thinking of securing the forward floorpan with
screws instead of rivets, and/or installing an inspection cover in the
fabric directly below the brake cylinders to allow access. Anybody ever
have the same concern and did something along these lines?
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, s/n M3-300
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
SATURDAY
GOOD NEWS, after one year and five months, 650 hours my Mk III w/912 is ready
to fly this Saturday. My friend, who has owned 3 different ultralight planes
was trained by Kolb at this years Sun-n-Fun in the plane Peter
purchashed.....so he's the test pilot. EAA Tech Advisor and Flight Advisor
have been working with us on all the final details.
SUNDAY
Finally made the first flight today in my Mk III !!!!!!
I used the EAA Flight Advisor Plan.....long .....long.... process. I narrowed
it down to conform to what I thought would be best for the Kolb, and it still
took all weekend. Anyway the plane flew just about perfect. Still have to
make the usual adjustments that are regulary discussed on the group.
Rich Bragassa
Mk III N8160Z
Miami, Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio Amp. |
Jim
If you could let us know if you think you that some of us KOLB guys could
get some input on this antenna
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>> The amplifier is really a neat little
>> unit, although a bit expensive at $200 plus tax, but if it will
>permit me to
>> reach towers 20 miles away, I'll keep it.
>
>I'm able to talk to FSS , towers, and centers at 50-60 miles out
>with my KLX100...no ign shielding of any sort, homemade antenna
>tuned w/SWR meter. Either just lucky or.....lucky......
>J. Baker
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
Bill
Don't know how much this could help,but here is what I did , since where
I fly their is water to the south and trees to the north I had two inch
close cell seat's that have snaps that fasten to the black kolb seats
the seats can be removed and be used as a mattress or in the water it
can be used to support a down pilot , and in the air it is it is like
being in your lazy boy
Rick Libersat
>
>Hi All:
>
>I see that Big Lar has installed removable bucket seats in his
>airplane.
>Sounds interesting. I am looking for something more supportive for my
>aging
>6' 220# frame. I saw an old post where someone had "Nelson Flight
>Seats"
>installed. Any suggestions for seats will be appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bill George
>Mk-3, 582, soon-to-be-replaced Ivo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio Amp. |
Ron
Thanks for the report , I sure hope that you get all the bugs worked out
it sounds good so far, please keep us posted . Ron I am having a little
trouble with my E I S
but Greg at EIS has got everything lined out he is a nice guy to do
business with.
Rick Libersat
>
>In a message dated 5/13/99 9:21:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>rick106(at)juno.com
>writes:
>
>Ron
> I will be waiting to hear how you like your unit I hope that it dose
>the
> job for you if you think that it works at least 1/2 as they say I
>will
> get one to and try it out
>
> Rick Libersat
>===========================================
>Rick;
>I received the amplifier and gave it a quick try; I started the engine
>and
>called the tower with a "before" test and an "after" test. They
>couldn't
>discern any difference; both transmissions were "scratchy." Then I
>did a
>test with the tower with the handheld radio only but this time with
>the
>engine running for a "before" test and with it shut down for an
>"after" test.
> This time they reported a big difference in the quality of the signal
>- the
>engine off condition was significantly better. I am now certain that
>my
>problem is related to engine noise leaking into my stereo intercom
>system.
>My next test will be to get an adapter so that I can connect my
>microphone/headset directly into the radio and then test with the
>engine on &
>off. This test will confirm that the problem is in the intercom
>system
>rather than the antenna system.
>
>As soon as I can get this problem fixed, I'll test the amp. in flight
>and
>provide you with a performance report. The amplifier is really a neat
>little
>unit, although a bit expensive at $200 plus tax, but if it will permit
>me to
>reach towers 20 miles away, I'll keep it. It is interesting in that
>it has
>ZERO current draw when you are not transmitting; this means the unit
>can be
>permanently connected to aircraft power without an on/off switch.
>When the
>unit senses about 1/8 watt of RF energy on the input side, it turns
>itself on
>to amplify the signal. Neat, hummm?
>
>More later - - -
>Ron Christensen
>MKIII1/2
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
Rick
Did you just get some foam and have the cloth/vinyl (or whatever) sewed over
it?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
>
> My concern is having no access to
> these cylinders in the future, in case I need to remove or service the
> brake cylinders. I am a believer in having a way to access EVERY piece
> of equipment on an airplane, because you never know when ol' Murphy will
>Dennis Kirby
> Mark-III, s/n M3-300
> Cedar Crest, New Mexico
>
>
Dennis and Kolb Gang:
I had the same problem. Yes, never sew up a piece of
equipment unless there is a way to remove later.
I cut an access door in nose pod. Mounted threaded inserts
to secure it. After a period of time I have had to access
the master cylinders several times.
Noticed your serial number: M3-300. Didn't know there were
that many MK III's out there. Anybody got a SN higher than
M3-300? Mine is M3-011. That's quite an air force. ;-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Handheld Radio Amp. |
> If you could let us know if you think you that some of us KOLB guys could
> get some input on this antenna
> Rick Libersat
> >I'm able to talk to FSS , towers, and centers at 50-60 miles out
> >with my KLX100...no ign shielding of any sort, homemade antenna
> >tuned w/SWR meter. Either just lucky or.....lucky......
> >J. Baker
Credit where it is due.....Mr. Pike....and the internet . Found lots of
info on antenna design and specifics when I was looking for a
solution. Richard suggested.....
>Took a scrap of .020 alum sheet and doped it to the inside of the fabric
>that is on the bottom of the fuselage behind the main gear , and off to
>one side of the big rear tube. Make it as big as you can so that it will
>be a good ground plane for the signal. Drill a hole in it and fit a
>through fitting that accepts BNC connectors and is male on both
>ends.(Radio shack part # UG-914 BNC will work, but your local avionics
>shop has a better one that threads tightly into place, costs more too)
>Attach your radio coax cable on the inside and on the outside get a Radio
>Shack Twist-on-male BNC
>#278-103. Get a 1/16" model airplane piano wire 25" long and carefully
>#grind
>one end to a needle taper so that it will fit into the center connecter
>of the twist-on-male BNC. Seat it snugly and then fill the hexagonal
>shank up with 5 minute epoxy. Put a nice curve in it so that it won't
>drag on the ground when you taxi and you're all set. Cheap and the tower
>says it is loud and clear 15 miles out.
> R Pike
> Technical counselor EAA 442
> MKIII N420P (42oldpoops)
Use stainless wire as it looks and lasts better, won't rust. Location
of mine is just to the left of the seat, exiting down through the belly,
using the aluminum floor pan as part of the ground plane. A great
deal has been made of ground plane size in some posts....I only
know (and have read) that the size should equal the surface area of
the radiating element (the surface area, not the cross section
area). I also used a bulkhead mount BNC connector so I could
have a rigid, square mount and a BNC stub right on the floor. The
antenna wire itself is 24 inches long, 5 inches out the bottom and
then a 45 degree bend to the rear (a 1/4 wave length based on
128.0khz as a center freq). The fabric is protected with a nylon
washer glued in place on the fabric around the antenna exit.
http://news.wirelessdesignonline.com/design-features/19990203-
3846.html
See above for explanation and antenna length formula. I've always
been a fan of getting the antenna as far away as possible from
noise sources, thus the bottom location, and make sure that the
mount isn't right next to any kill wire runs as this is a dandy
inductor of ign noise.
You can get (or borrow from a HAM friend) an SWR/ power meter
from amateur radio supply houses or from the internet (search for
SWR and METER) for under $20. The meter will tell you when
your antenna is the right length by indicating max power output.
Tuning for maximum power is a must since you can...not
necessarily will, but can... damage the power output section of the
transmitter by not correctly matching the antenna to the radio.
Otherwise, my setup might just be luck....... ; )
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
I agree. My floorpans are held in with sheet metal screws and snap-over
tinnerman nuts. Works fine.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Hey, Fellow Kolbers -
>I am in the process of installing the nosecone and floorpans in my
>Mark-III and have come upon a situation that I'd like to get some folks'
>advice on. I am installing the Matco hydraulic brakes in my airplane.
>If built according to plans, after everything is done, the two brake
>cylinders will end up with no access to them. Riveted floor pans on
>top, fabric covering underneath. My concern is having no access to
>these cylinders in the future, in case I need to remove or service the
>brake cylinders. I am a believer in having a way to access EVERY piece
>of equipment on an airplane, because you never know when ol' Murphy will
>intervene. I am either thinking of securing the forward floorpan with
>screws instead of rivets, and/or installing an inspection cover in the
>fabric directly below the brake cylinders to allow access. Anybody ever
>have the same concern and did something along these lines?
>Dennis Kirby
>Mark-III, s/n M3-300
>Cedar Crest, New Mexico
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I like that, Rick. Tomorrow I'll be out there scratching my head, trying to
figure out a way to incorporate something similar. Right now, mine just
have regular upholstery foam. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <rick106(at)juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 1999 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MK-3 seats
>
> Bill
> Don't know how much this could help,but here is what I did , since where
> I fly their is water to the south and trees to the north I had two inch
> close cell seat's that have snaps that fasten to the black kolb seats
> the seats can be removed and be used as a mattress or in the water it
> can be used to support a down pilot , and in the air it is it is like
> being in your lazy boy
>
> Rick Libersat
>
> >
> >Hi All:
> >
> >I see that Big Lar has installed removable bucket seats in his
> >airplane.
> >Sounds interesting. I am looking for something more supportive for my
> >aging
> >6' 220# frame. I saw an old post where someone had "Nelson Flight
> >Seats"
> >installed. Any suggestions for seats will be appreciated.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Bill George
> >Mk-3, 582, soon-to-be-replaced Ivo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gallar" <MikeG(at)ij.net> |
Hello John,
My name is Mike Gallar I jusy purchased my Kolb Mark III this year at Sun N
Fun
my serial # is M3-332 I'm Hoping to receive my kit this week.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hauck
> Sent: Sunday, May 23, 1999 11:01 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Access
>
>
> Noticed your serial number: M3-300. Didn't know there were
> that many MK III's out there. Anybody got a SN higher than
> M3-300? Mine is M3-011. That's quite an air force. ;-)
>
> john h
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
Dennis, regarding hydraulic brake cylinder access: why not provision an
access / viewing hole underneath ? In other words, why not provide a
viewing access hole from the bottom of the cage. Using the inspection hole
rings poly tac'd to the bottom fabric allowing access in the future to the
cylinders. MAybe you could build two holes so you could get both hands in
to remove the cylinders if you had to and then you can use the aluminum
inspection cover plates when you are done.
You wrote: "the two brake cylinders will end up with no access to them.
Riveted floor pans on
top, fabric covering underneath. "
+
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron C Reece" <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com> |
I'm starting on my horizontal stabs of my FS and have a question. The plans
call out for a stiffener inside one of the tubes (on the blue print), but the
book just says to add stiffeners to the H.S. On the drawing it points out a
stiffener under the hinge, but I also see another line on the blueprint and I
don't know what that is. This line is on the forward facing tube within a few
inches of the most outward tip. What is this line? Is it a mistake, or
another stiffener? Any advice would be greatly excepted. Thanks
Ron Reece
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
> SUNDAY
> Finally made the first flight today in my Mk III !!!!!!
> I used the EAA Flight Advisor Plan.....long .....long.... process. I narrowed
> it down to conform to what I thought would be best for the Kolb, and it still
> took all weekend. Anyway the plane flew just about perfect. Still have to
> make the usual adjustments that are regulary discussed on the group.
>
> Rich Bragassa
> Mk III N8160Z
> Miami, Fl
Rich:
Want to add my congratulations also. Good luck with your
new MK III.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Ant for handheld |
My ant is a spare rubber ducky w/ male BNC, which connects to a
feed-thru fem. BNC (Radio Shack) on an approx 7" sq. of scrap .025 Al
popped onto belly (nosecone) of FireFly a few in. forward of rudder
pedals. The inside end is soldered to a short pc of RG-58 or like cable
(51 ohm only) with a male BNC on bitter end (Navy for the other end!) to
connect to your handheld. Works fine, with little ign.noise (have plug
shields).
You can use longer, more efficient ants., either w/ permanent
connections to BNC, or make spares using a male BNC and epoxy. GB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
I have recieved my wing and tail kit (unloaded the truck this morning...)
and have wondered about the serial number. Where is it??? Or do you not
get it till later ??(when you finish?) Anyway I have been questioned about
how many of like design there are out there. (Curiousity...) Dennis
Souder...what are the totals on all the various Kolb designs??? Enquiring
minds want to know!!!
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
Kolb M3 wing & tail JUST ARRIVED!!!
EAA#583961 Local CH. #677
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Yates" <johny(at)epix.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron C Reece <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com>
Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 6:15 AM
>
>
>I'm starting on my horizontal stabs of my FS and have a question. The
plans
>call out for a stiffener inside one of the tubes (on the blue print), but
the
>book just says to add stiffeners to the H.S.
The only place on a Fire Star horizontal stab that gets a sleeve is the
trailing edge tube 3/4x.035x6" long will do it. Don't forget to put one on
the vert stab as well.
John Yates
Chief Operating Officer
606-862-9692 610-948-4136 717-362-1057
www.tnkolbaircraft.com
tnkolbaircraft@sun-spot.com
www.kolbaircraft.com
johny(at)epix.net
>
>Ron Reece
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Yates" <johny(at)epix.net> |
Going from the front of the Mk3 cage back, the fabric on the bottom
of the cage should only cover the 2nd flat steel strip. This leaves an
opened area to get to everything. The only thing you would have to do is pop
your nose cone off. Just a thought!!!
John Yates
Chief Operating Officer
606-862-9692 610-948-4136 717-362-1057
www.tnkolbaircraft.com
tnkolbaircraft@sun-spot.com
www.kolbaircraft.com
johny(at)epix.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Thompson, Todd <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com>
Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 5:56 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Access
>
>Dennis, regarding hydraulic brake cylinder access: why not provision an
>access / viewing hole underneath ? In other words, why not provide a
>viewing access hole from the bottom of the cage. Using the inspection
hole
>rings poly tac'd to the bottom fabric allowing access in the future to the
>cylinders. MAybe you could build two holes so you could get both hands in
>to remove the cylinders if you had to and then you can use the aluminum
>inspection cover plates when you are done.
>
>
>You wrote: "the two brake cylinders will end up with no access to them.
>Riveted floor pans on
>top, fabric covering underneath. "
>
>
> +
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Hoyt <rrh03105(at)quasar.gd-is.com> |
Big Lar
I would like to see pictures of your seat design. This is an area I
haven't gotten to and planned on fabricating composites that were moveable
but provided spinal protection.
Ron
>
>
>Hi Bill: I went to the local dune buggy shop, and got a pair of light
>fiberglass shells, and had the snap in upholstery ordered for them. They
>weigh about 6 lb. each, and are very comfy. I used light weight angle
>aluminum for a base and mount. This time, if someone wants pics, I'll have
>to take some, since I only have pics of the seats installed, not of the
>actual mounting brackets.
> Big Lar.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <WGeorge737(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Sent: Sunday, May 23, 1999 10:04 AM
>Subject: MK-3 seats
>
>
>>
>> Hi All:
>>
>> I see that Big Lar has installed removable bucket seats in his airplane.
>> Sounds interesting. I am looking for something more supportive for my
>aging
>> 6' 220# frame. I saw an old post where someone had "Nelson Flight Seats"
>> installed. Any suggestions for seats will be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Bill George
>> Mk-3, 582, soon-to-be-replaced Ivo
>>
>>
>
>
>~~************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 99-05-24 2:38:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rrh03105(at)quasar.gd-is.com writes:
<< This is an area I
haven't gotten to and planned on fabricating composites that were moveable
but provided spinal protection. >>
Good thing that spinal protection. A good friend of mine went down in
Monroe Connecticut last weekend in a Titan. Multiple spinal fractures. He
lost fuel due to a leak and tried to land on a residential street. Wiped the
gear off and hit a US Mail box. The NTSB guy estimated that he decelerated
from about 40-45 mph to ZERO in about 7 feet. He'll be OK if his wife
doesn't kill him. All he was sitting on was the fiberglass Titan seat pan
supported by a couple of steel tubes. Anyway, its moments like that where
surprisingly small amounts of foam can make a big difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Access
Hey, Fellow Kolbers -
I am in the process of installing the nosecone and floorpans in my
Mark-III and have come upon a situation that I'd like to get some folks'
advice on. I am installing the Matco hydraulic brakes in my airplane.
If built according to plans, after everything is done, the two brake
cylinders will end up with no access to them. Riveted floor pans on
top, fabric covering underneath. My concern is having no access to
these cylinders in the future, in case I need to remove or service the
brake cylinders. I am a believer in having a way to access EVERY piece
of equipment on an airplane, because you never know when ol' Murphy will
intervene. I am either thinking of securing the forward floorpan with
screws instead of rivets, and/or installing an inspection cover in the
fabric directly below the brake cylinders to allow access. Anybody ever
have the same concern and did something along these lines?
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, s/n M3-300
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
Dennis Kirby,
I had the same feeling when constructing M3-247 with Matco brakes. My solution
was to bolt on the
front-half floor pan, bolted it to the cross-bar that can be slid fore and aft
with the pedal assemblies.
I used some thicker 2024 aluminum I bought locally (maybe 0.100" thick), and had
someone put a
bend in it, then bolted thru the 3/4" lip that was bent upward, I think with
five small stainless bolts and
nyloc nuts. At the back edge, where this removable panel sets on top of the
stock rear-half panel,
I put a strip of self-adhesive rubber stuff to dampen any vibration between the
two panels. There
are no bolts at the back edge of the front panel. The rear panel is per plans.
So far, I have not needed
the access because the brakes work fine. But it is there. I hate drilling out
rivets.
Good luck.
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Van Kampen" <avkampen(at)athenet.net> |
Can any one help me. I have a 582 Rotax on my Kolb Mark III. Lately I have
had a problem starting my engine after I have been flying for about an hour
and the engine is nice and warm. All of my temps are fine. I have no problem
starting it when it's cold. I have changed spark plug wires and still have a
problem. I am new at this, so any help would be greatly appricated.
Thank you
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Hoyt <rrh03105(at)quasar.gd-is.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:34 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: MK-3 seats
>
> Big Lar
>
> I would like to see pictures of your seat design. This is an area I
> haven't gotten to and planned on fabricating composites that were moveable
> but provided spinal protection.
> Ron
>
>
> >
> >
> >Hi Bill: I went to the local dune buggy shop, and got a pair of light
> >fiberglass shells, and had the snap in upholstery ordered for them. They
> >weigh about 6 lb. each, and are very comfy. I used light weight angle
> >aluminum for a base and mount. This time, if someone wants pics, I'll
have
> >to take some, since I only have pics of the seats installed, not of the
> >actual mounting brackets.
> > Big Lar.
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <WGeorge737(at)aol.com>
> >To:
> >Sent: Sunday, May 23, 1999 10:04 AM
> >Subject: MK-3 seats
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Hi All:
> >>
> >> I see that Big Lar has installed removable bucket seats in his
airplane.
> >> Sounds interesting. I am looking for something more supportive for my
> >aging
> >> 6' 220# frame. I saw an old post where someone had "Nelson Flight
Seats"
> >> installed. Any suggestions for seats will be appreciated.
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> Bill George
> >> Mk-3, 582, soon-to-be-replaced Ivo
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >~~************
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
Big Lar
I still have your address along with a few small tags that go over your
switches just send me what you need and I will see about sending them out
to you.
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>
>I like that, Rick. Tomorrow I'll be out there scratching my head,
>trying to
>figure out a way to incorporate something similar. Right now, mine
>just
>have regular upholstery foam. Big Lar.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <rick106(at)juno.com>
>To:
>Sent: Sunday, May 23, 1999 7:15 PM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MK-3 seats
>
>
>>
>> Bill
>> Don't know how much this could help,but here is what I did , since
>where
>> I fly their is water to the south and trees to the north I had two
>inch
>> close cell seat's that have snaps that fasten to the black kolb
>seats
>> the seats can be removed and be used as a mattress or in the water
>it
>> can be used to support a down pilot , and in the air it is it is
>like
>> being in your lazy boy
>>
>> Rick Libersat
>>
>> >
>> >Hi All:
>> >
>> >I see that Big Lar has installed removable bucket seats in his
>> >airplane.
>> >Sounds interesting. I am looking for something more supportive for
>my
>> >aging
>> >6' 220# frame. I saw an old post where someone had "Nelson Flight
>> >Seats"
>> >installed. Any suggestions for seats will be appreciated.
>> >
>> >Thanks
>> >
>> >Bill George
>> >Mk-3, 582, soon-to-be-replaced Ivo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thermal Flying |
In a message dated 5/24/99 7:40:33 PM Central Daylight Time, irena(at)ccis.com
writes:
> I use to fly
> out of an area near Mojave where the wind was tunneled through the
> mountains and into another mountain near our runway. I have made
Hey Doc.....
You anywhere near Tehatchapi. I've been out there a few times to the
Sailplane Homebuilders Annual Convention on Labor Day. I noticed a lot of
strange wind conditions in the mountains in that area. would love to fly the
wave sometime that is generated in the Rockies up by Minden, Nevada. Not
much mountain flying in Texas but the summer thermals are hermongous. It's
about the only thing good I could say about Texas in the summertime. Now if
I could just master it in the Kolb.....
Take care....
Steve Kroll Mk2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Copy that, Rick. Had quite a bit of overload lately, and it's caused a long
term attack of Cranius Rectitis. I'll be back on beam soon - I hope. I'm
being damned near forced to go back into business, and I'm resisting
strongly; as well as too much pulling in different directions at work.
Thanks much. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <rick106(at)juno.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MK-3 seats
>
> Big Lar
> I still have your address along with a few small tags that go over your
> switches just send me what you need and I will see about sending them out
> to you.
> Rick Libersat
>
> writes:
> >
> >
> >I like that, Rick. Tomorrow I'll be out there scratching my head,
> >trying to
> >figure out a way to incorporate something similar. Right now, mine
> >just
> >have regular upholstery foam. Big Lar.
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <rick106(at)juno.com>
> >To:
> >Sent: Sunday, May 23, 1999 7:15 PM
> >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MK-3 seats
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Bill
> >> Don't know how much this could help,but here is what I did , since
> >where
> >> I fly their is water to the south and trees to the north I had two
> >inch
> >> close cell seat's that have snaps that fasten to the black kolb
> >seats
> >> the seats can be removed and be used as a mattress or in the water
> >it
> >> can be used to support a down pilot , and in the air it is it is
> >like
> >> being in your lazy boy
> >>
> >> Rick Libersat
> >>
> >> >
> >> >Hi All:
> >> >
> >> >I see that Big Lar has installed removable bucket seats in his
> >> >airplane.
> >> >Sounds interesting. I am looking for something more supportive for
> >my
> >> >aging
> >> >6' 220# frame. I saw an old post where someone had "Nelson Flight
> >> >Seats"
> >> >installed. Any suggestions for seats will be appreciated.
> >> >
> >> >Thanks
> >> >
> >> >Bill George
> >> >Mk-3, 582, soon-to-be-replaced Ivo
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tony.deb" <tony.deb(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Hard start Van Kampen |
I've Found That If Left For 20 Minutes Or More I Need To Choke 'er Again.The
Guys I Fly With Agree, Theres all sizes of rotax at the club----mine is the
582--Try It U Got Nuthin To Lose
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Van Kampen <avkampen(at)athenet.net>
Date: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 12:30 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: MK-3 seats
>
>Can any one help me. I have a 582 Rotax on my Kolb Mark III. Lately I have
>had a problem starting my engine after I have been flying for about an hour
>and the engine is nice and warm. All of my temps are fine. I have no
problem
>starting it when it's cold. I have changed spark plug wires and still have
a
>problem. I am new at this, so any help would be greatly appricated.
>
>Thank you
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ron Hoyt <rrh03105(at)quasar.gd-is.com>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:34 PM
>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: MK-3 seats
>
>
>>
>> Big Lar
>>
>> I would like to see pictures of your seat design. This is an area I
>> haven't gotten to and planned on fabricating composites that were
moveable
>> but provided spinal protection.
>> Ron
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >Hi Bill: I went to the local dune buggy shop, and got a pair of
light
>> >fiberglass shells, and had the snap in upholstery ordered for them.
They
>> >weigh about 6 lb. each, and are very comfy. I used light weight angle
>> >aluminum for a base and mount. This time, if someone wants pics, I'll
>have
>> >to take some, since I only have pics of the seats installed, not of the
>> >actual mounting brackets.
>> > Big Lar.
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: <WGeorge737(at)aol.com>
>> >To:
>> >Sent: Sunday, May 23, 1999 10:04 AM
>> >Subject: MK-3 seats
>> >
>> >
>> >>
>> >> Hi All:
>> >>
>> >> I see that Big Lar has installed removable bucket seats in his
>airplane.
>> >> Sounds interesting. I am looking for something more supportive for my
>> >aging
>> >> 6' 220# frame. I saw an old post where someone had "Nelson Flight
>Seats"
>> >> installed. Any suggestions for seats will be appreciated.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks
>> >>
>> >> Bill George
>> >> Mk-3, 582, soon-to-be-replaced Ivo
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >~~************
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Hoyt <rrh03105(at)quasar.gd-is.com> |
The British have a modification required for the Kolbs that consists of a
aluminum pan riveted under the seat at the same points as the fabric. This
is the result of several hard (crash) landings in which spinal injuries
occurred and the airframe was only minimally damaged. I contacted the firm
that installs the modification to discover what the AD consisted of. I
don't know what the follow up is but I am not aware of additional spinal
injuries due to hard landings. It looks like the injury occurs because the
rear cross support for the seat strikes the occupant in the back if he
tears through the fabric seat during the crash. The fix must increase the
G load that the seat will take without tearing out of its fasteners.
Ron
>
>
>It'll be a while, but I'm saving the names of those requesting seat info.
>I'd be very interested myself, in the idea of spinal protection. More info,
>Please ??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> It'll be a while, but I'm saving the names of those requesting seat info.
> I'd be very interested myself, in the idea of spinal protection. More info,
>
Larry and Kolb Gang:
In 1991 when Miss P'fer, my MK III, was being welded up in
the barn at Homer's, I had already decided on hard seats.
Scrounged around up in the loft of the barn and found two
Ultrastar seats and their Azusa covers. Fabricated 4130
frame for seats that tilt forward in order to gain access to
rear compartment and under seats. Learned a trick from the
JARS pilots that fly the Heliocouriers at OSH and S&F. They
had one of their pilots stall a Heliocourier into a jungle
strip. The result was paralyzing spinal injuries caused by
the bottom of the seat failing, but the 4130 frame remaining
in tack. Their fix was to rivet an aluminum pan under the
cushion to the seat frame to prevent the pilot and
passengers from being driven down in the seat frame during
high impact landings. Miss P'er has an aluminum sheet seat
pan riveted under each plastic seat. Also have a piece of
1.5 or 2 inch temper foam in each seat.
The seats were tested Mar 92 and Sep 93. Both the seats and
the pilot survived without injury. Sep 93 stalled and
crashed from aprx 30 feet. Pan caked in flat. Wiped out
landing gear, VHF antenna, and landing light. Tore some
belly fabric. Hit so hard my glasses were thrown from my
head from under David Clark 10-40 headset and ended up in
the nose of the aircraft. Had huge black and blue marks
from the front edge of the seat on the underside of my
thighs. Forgot to turn off the ELT. Got a call from the
FAA the next day. They had found the aircraft in the cow
pasture where I had crashed at last light. Told them I was
sorry. I knew they were extremely busy and felt it was
insignificant to bother them with something that happened
all the time to ultralights. Reminded them when I totaled
the MK III during testing that they had made an appointment
to come see the aircraft 3 days after the crash and I was
still waiting on them or a call to tell me they were not
coming. When you need them you can't find them and when you
don't want to be bothered with them you can't seem to shake
them (FAA types).
Temper foam made my 231 hour flight in 41 days a reality.
Without it I would have been miserable. After 30 minutes
flight time my butt would cramp and ache like it was going
to fall off. Reminded me of flying H-13 helicopters that
had sheet metal (flat) seats and not much cushioning. With
the temper foam under my butt I never get cramps any more.
Larry, I would be interested in info on size, weight, price,
and availability of the dune buggy seats.
john h (hauck's holler, alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> John:
>
> What about the March 92 "seat test?"
>
> Bill
Bill and Gang:
Lost eng, 582, on take off from my private strip due to fuel
starvation caused by someone unknown to me who pulled a tie
wrap tight on main fuel line from gas tank to fuel pump.
Over trees, could not bend the aircraft around hard enough
to clear trees for fear of stalling at a couple hundred
feet. Flew thru large red oak tree knocking 6 inch diameter
limb from trunk of tree, rolled up on left wing tip, hit the
ground left wing tip vertical the inverted. Not a scratch,
but black and blue from left shoulder to belly button from
loading left shoulder harness. Totaled aircraft. Had to
build new wings, ailerons, flaps, replace tailboom which
snapped like a match stick at the rear of H brace, all
glass, and over 20 fabric patches on fuselage. Also
destroyed prop (wooden GSC) and heavily damaged parachute
that I deployed and drug thru tree. Was too low and too
slow for parachute to fully deploy. Reminds me, had to
build new center section also.
All of Homer's airplanes are build strong. If they weren't
I wouldn't be here flying them today.
john h (hauck's holler, alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Yates" <johny(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Serial number |
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 9:43 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Serial number
>
>I have recieved my wing and tail kit (unloaded the truck this morning...)
>and have wondered about the serial number. Where is it??? Or do you not
>get it till later ??(when you finish?)
You will get this when you get your MK3 cage. It will be stamped on the end
of the root tube.
Anyway I have been questioned about
>how many of like design there are out there. (Curiousity...) Dennis
>Souder...what are the totals on all the various Kolb designs??? Enquiring
>minds want to know!!!
Don't know for sure , lots!!! I will check on this and get back to you.
John Yates
Chief Operating Officer
606-862-9692 610-948-4136 717-362-1057
www.tnkolbaircraft.com
tnkolbaircraft@sun-spot.com
www.kolbaircraft.com
johny(at)epix.net
>
>Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>Kolb M3 wing & tail JUST ARRIVED!!!
>EAA#583961 Local CH. #677
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: MK-3 seats and rebuilding |
John and others,
My plane sounds like yours was, or maybe yours was worse. Good Grief!!
I saw that plane on the cover of Experimenter after you rebuilt it --
and I forget what award it received then (Grand Champ of something,
forgive me). Anyway, it gives me hope!!
You mentioned that your plane took out a 6" diam tree limb. When I
went back the next day to bring home my wings, Bill (farm-owner)
told me that no, the tractor shed my plane was thrown against was NOT
crooked beforehand! My little 300 lb airplane put a good bend in
a steel corner post of that solid tractor shed, also slightly twisting
the whole shed. Glad I was not along on that ride! Another little
tidbit, is that, when I was there 45 minutes before Mother Nature
grabbed my plane, I had moved the brand new PowerFin prop to
horizontal in preparation for trailering. That at least saved me
from a broken prop to add to the expense list. Bill wasn't mad about
the bent shed as it kept my plane from taking another leap into a
1949ish Studebaker truck (he loves Studebakers and has dozens of them).
BTW y'all, I'm looking forward to rebuilding. Can't bare to think of
life without my FS!! Can't start till mid-summer due to other project
list.
-Ben 'back in the builder and wannabee column' Ransom
---------------------------------------
>> What about the March 92 "seat test?"
>>
>> Bill
>
>
>Bill and Gang:
>
>Lost eng, 582, on take off from my private strip due to fuel
>starvation caused by someone unknown to me who pulled a tie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thermal Flying |
In a message dated 5/25/99 1:37:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, N51SK(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I noticed a lot of
strange wind conditions in the mountains in that area. would love to fly
the
wave sometime that is generated in the Rockies up by Minden, Nevada. Not
much mountain flying in Texas but the summer thermals are hermongous. It's
about the only thing good I could say about Texas in the summertime. Now if
I could just master it in the Kolb.....
Take care....
Steve Kroll Mk2
>>
Hey Steve, I used to glide in El Paso and Las Cruzes and was bombed by the
1000 ft/min rise times and the "sand bouncin off" the bottom of my 2-33
wings! I've tried soaring my Firestar in Ohio but can never find the little
puffy clouds you mentioned..........I have to look for the gaggles....of
birds...only found 2 in 10 years and became the ugliest bird in the
gaggle....( according to some of the raised bird eyebrows, i got)........It
is fun and VERY satisfying though......when sumpin wants to tip you
over....fly right into it and keep circling!............GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ultratech Ultralight Engine |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Kolbers,
I cannot seem to put aside the possibility that this engine may be a
viable alternative to the 912. I liked what I saw at SNF but was totally
unimpressed by their marketing. As a consequence I initiated the
attached correspondence. My original message (Questions) follows the
response.
There were 2 attachments to their message, which I have to unzip before I
can post them.
I certainly would be interested in the opinions of the list, so have at
it!
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III
writes:
>Ray
>
>Thanks for your e-mail and for your interest in the Ultratec engine .
>I am
>glad you got to see it running and flying on the trike at Sun 'N Fun.
>
>Firstly let me apologise for the lack of response from DCC , which I
>am
>looking into at the moment. Joe normally checks with us if he needs
>more
>information to reply to an enquiry .
>
>I will deal with your points in the order you have listed them :
>
>1. We supply a comprehensive manual with pictures which should enable
>a
>competent mechanic to dismantle and reassemble the engine should the
>need
>arise. We will also supply a complete parts list which will identify
>Ford
>part numbers where appropriate .
>
>2. Support will be available by e-mail . If we or the dealer need to
>speak
>to you we will try to make it our phone call to save your bills !
>
>3. In these circumstances we would replace the defective engine with a
>new
>one . Obviously we would establish the cause of the failure and if
>appropriate issue a bulletin to other owners . Our mission is to make
>our
>service second to none .
>
>4. We would supply whatever parts were needed to carry out a full
>rebuild ,
>which can be carried out by a good mechanic with a few specialist
>tools
>(listed in the manual ). I am attaching an article from one of our
>newsletters which sets out the costs involved in an overhaul which you
>may
>find of interest.
>
>5. Yes we are establishing a new dealer in Minnesota and they are
>coming to
>the UK next month for an intensive training course. They will be able
>to
>provide technical support and field servicing if practicable .
>
>6. The US and UK do not use the same Octane ratings which
>understandably is
>a source of confusion . The UK measures Research Octane Numbers
>(shortened
>to RON) whereas the US use an AntiKnock Index (sometimes referred to
>as
>AKI ) . The relevant ratings for different grades of fuel are as
>follows :
>
> Grade RON AKI
>
>Unleaded 91 88
>Premium unleaded 95 90
>Leaded 96 91
>
>In practice the engine has been running quite happily on RON 91 i.e.
>regular
>unleaded petrol .
>
>7. Various aircraft manufacturers have an engine under test at the
>moment
>but have requested confidentiality until they are ready to hit the
>press
>with the installation .
>
>8. We currently have units based on the engine you saw fitted to a
>snowmobile and an all terrain vehicle . I note your comments on any
>favourable reaction from these alternative applications and we will
>release
>feed back from the installations as soon as we can .
>
>I hope these answers will help you in your evaluation . Please let me
>know
>if you would like further clarification of any of these points .
>
>Kind regards
>
>Adrian Bligh
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
>To: sales(at)motavia.com
>Date: 23 May 1999 19:17
>Subject: Ultratech Ultralight Engine
>
**************** My Original Message to Motavia *********************
>
>>Dear Motavia, Ltd.
>>
>>I have sent the following message to DCC Corporation on twice. On
>April
>>20th and again on May 9th. The messages were not returned so I must
>>assume that someone received them. I received no reply or even an
>>acknowledgement.
>>
>>I do have an interest in your product. It is my hope that you will
>see
>>fit to respond to this inquiry.
>>
>>Thank you.
>>
>>Sincerely
>>
>>L. Ray Baker
>>Lake Butler, Fl
>>Building Mark III
>>
>>Copy of message follows.
>>
>>From: rbaker2(at)juno.com
>>To: DCCCORP(at)aol.com
>>Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 22:38:32 -0400
>>Subject: Ultratech
>>
>>From: rbaker2(at)juno.com
>>To: DCCCORP(at)aol.com
>>Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 13:04:15 -0400
>>Subject: Ultratech Engine
>>
>>Dear DCCC,
>>
>>I am building a Kolb Firestar Mark III. Within the next few months
>I
>>will be buying and installing an engine. Most existing Mark III's
>>utilize the Rotax 582 or 912. There are a several others on the
>>Kolb-List approaching this same decision.
>>
>>On paper the Ultratec looks like an excellent choice. The only thing
>it
>>lacks as of this point in time is a proven reputation. I visited
>your
>>exhibit at Sun-N-Fun and witnessed a demonstration of both the
>engine
>>management system and a flight of a trike powered by the Ultratec.
>>
>>I am seriously interested in the Ultratec but need the answers to a
>few
>>questions:
>>
>>1. What documentation is provided?
>> Parts explosion/list?
>> Manual sufficient to provide information necessary to
>remove/install
>>major parts and perform maintenance?
>>
>>2. When I have the engine installed and it will not operate, or does
>not
>>operate at usable levels, how do I get assistance/advice. Do I have
>to
>>run up a big telephone bill or can I get support via e-mail or an
>800
>>number?
>>
>>3. In the event of a major failure covered under the warranty, how
>would
>>it be repaired? Where? How long would I be without an engine.
>>
>>4. The same as 3 above but out of warranty? Are there any
>rates/costs
>>established for this service.
>>
>>5. Are you considering establishing any dealers or service points
>in
>>locations in the US.
>>
>>6. The technical specifications list Unleaded 95 Octane fuel. This
>is
>>not an octane level generally available in the US. It is 92 Octane
>or
>>jump to 100LL av gas. How does the Ultratec respond to these fuels?
>>
>>7. Can you put me in touch with any current users in the US, or if
>I
>>purchase the unit will I be the first?
>>
>>8. In following the progress of this unit over the past year I get
>the
>>idea that an adaptation of this basic design is being used in other
>types
>>of vehicle. A van comes to mind. Favorable information on
>performance
>>of these units might help creating a warmer feeling about the
>Ultratec.
>>
>>I want to start a thread on our list about the Ultratec now that I
>have
>>seen it actually flying. (It has been discussed before) These
>questions
>>are bound to come up. I would like to provide the answers at the
>outset.
>>
>>L. Ray Baker
>>Rt. 2, Box 617-M44
>>Lake Butler, Fl 32054
>>904-496-1399
>>rbaker2(at)juno.com
>>Building Mark III
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jhann G. Jhannsson" <johann.g(at)centrum.is> |
| Subject: | Azusa hydraulic brakes? |
Hi listers.
I would like to ask the list members, if anyone knows of a new hydraulic
brake system
for the Azusa wheels. I did find a company in USA, who will make an
adapter for this
wheel, if I send them the rims. But it would not be the best solution
for me. I already have
the 6" Azusa rims, but do not want to install them until I have a good
braking system.
Do you know of anyone who is selling these kind of brakes?
I have searched the archives, but nothing.
Hope you can help, because the brakes that I am using now are not making
me happy.
Best regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 <sbaew(at)dames.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crash in Southern California |
A brand new Drifter II with a 912 was flying in the UL pattern at
Camarillo airport on Monday when the pilot lost control and crashed in an
adjacent agricultural field. I was told by the pilots friend that the
aileron control linkage in the wing came loose, and the plane spun in
from several hundred feet. The pilot survived, but has badly broken
ankles, and is currently in the hospital. The plane is totaled, and the
engine suffered a major prop strike. The pilot had ordered a BRS chute,
but had not yet received it.
This is quite a blow to me and my efforts to get up and flying in my Mrk
III because I did my instruction at Camarillo, and this pilot had helped
me out and provided much guidance and advice. He was also the president
of the local UL club, and held a private pilot license.
I had originally thought that I would test fly my Mrk III myself and
would not buy a chute, but subsequently thought better of it. I have a
test pilot lined up, and have been patiently waiting for the last 5 weeks
for the chute (it just arrived). I certainly have no doubts now that
this is the right way to go. My joy of first flight will certainly not
be lessened by having someone more skilled than me flying the plane
first, and it will be a flight with much less stress. Think I will make
those preflight checks nice and slow...
Think Safe,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RSStiegler(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Please take me off mailing list!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RSStiegler(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Please take me off mailing list!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FireFly; Taxi-Aerobatics |
While taxiing (Sp?) back to the hangar after my last flight I slowed for a
rough spot in the grass and those tiny little wheels got stuck in a little
tiny rut. I gently brought on some throttle to get her moving again. To my
amazement the movement was the tail coming up until I was in the nose-stand
position. I undid my seatbelts and eased forward and slowly reduced throttle
to let her down easy. Nothing. No one in sight to help (or ridicule) so there
I was with my tail up and frustration mounting. I finally got it down by
shutting down the engine, getting my feet over the side and sliding my butt
forward on the right side cockpit rail as far as I could. As I shifted my
weight to the ground the tail started down and with part of my weight still
on board the tail came down with no damage except to my pride. I had this
happen to my Mark lll once and learned that with elevator full up it is less
likely to happen again. This time the fuel tank was low so the weight aft of
the wheels was reduced and she came up rather easily. I only weigh 150 Lbs
and I am sure that if I weighed 200 the nose-stand would be even more likely.
New taxiing rules: 1/ elevators up, 2/ easy on the throttle, 3/ easy on the
brakes, 4/ If stuck in rut shut engine down and get out and push! Undignified
but effective.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FireFly; Taxi-Aerobatics |
> To my
> amazement the movement was the tail coming up until I was in the nose-stand
> position. I undid my seatbelts and eased forward and slowly reduced throttle
> to let her down easy. Nothing. No one in sight to help (or ridicule) so there
>
> Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL
Duane and Kolb Gang:
That's the price we pay to have an aircraft that is easy to
handle on the ground. To the best of my knowledge the
reason Homer designed his airplanes, from the Firestar on,
with most of the weight on the main gear sitting level in
the 3-pt position was for new guys and low time pilots. The
level attitude makes it difficult to fly before the airplane
is ready and one must land in the level attitude.
I didn't have brakes on my Firestar. Operating out of a 600
ft strip with the aircraft in a level attitude was difficult
to get it slowed down before I ran out of room. Remedied
that by going to much longer 4130 heat treated gear legs,
35.5 inches long. These legs butted up against the
intersection of the gear leg sockets. Raised the nose in a
nice 3-pt stance. Could rotate nicely on take off and flare
to a 3-pt landing. Turning the bottoms of the wings up
helped bleed off airspeed on landing.
In 1991, helped fly off the 40 hour test period on the
factory MK III, Fat Albert. Brother Jim and I were building
my MK III fuselage at the same time. We discussed putting
more weight on the tailwheel but had not decided on making
that mod until I watched Homer put the MK III up on its
nose. That was the deciding factor for moving the main gear
8 inches forward from the original design location. No
problem nosing over in Miss P'fer, however, she is a real
taildragger with 100+ lbs on the tailwheel. When a turn on
the ground is initiated one has to stay well ahead of the
aircraft and counter the input. The track of the main gear
is 72 inches, I think, and can be a hand full at times on
paved strips. This wide track has it's advantage though. I
landed at OSH last year to the north with a 15-25 mph 90
degree cross wind. My last takeoff was from Joliet,
Illinois. Somewhere between Joliet and OSH I lost the right
tailwheel spring. The wind was from the left. I started
losing directional control as soon as I landed. Could not
stop it and ground looped to the left right in the middle of
the Ultralight Strip at the biggest fly-in in the world.
Those ole wide track main gear kept the aircraft level as we
spun around and immediately taxied off the strip. ;-)
The down side of not having to worry about nosing over in
most landing situations is 100+ lbs is hard on tailwheel
assemblies and my back if I have to pick up the tail to
maneuver into hanger, etc. We could have probably gone with
6 or 7 inches, but we ain't engineers and sometimes it is
trial and error. Maybe one of these days we'll change the
gear position, but for right now I'm happy.
john h (hauck's holler, alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FireFly; Taxi-Aerobatics |
Sorry fellers:
Still early in the morning for me.
I forgot to mention that by raising the nose of the original
Firestar with long gear legs, back in 1986, also shifted the
cg to the rear and put more weight on the tailwheel while in
the 3-pt stance. Still had to be careful though. Had an
engine out and landed in an overgrown cow pasture. Just as
the aircraft finished rolling out (no brakes) the right main
gear connected with a huge fire ant bed and nosed over.
There were several times of near nose overs. Once up in NY
State landed in a hay field to take a little break. Never
landed out in NY. Didn't know that hay fields around
Watkins Glenn had rocks and stones as big as basket balls.
Yep, those things will get that tail up. That first flight
up to NY was in Firestar with no brakes. Next year on trip
to NY I had brakes.
The Sling Shot has nice long gear legs, and a lot of weight
on the tailwheel. One can rotate nicely on takeoff and it
will land in a 3-pt stance almost by itself. It has little
tendancy to nose over. Again though, it is a real
taildragger.
john h (hauck's holler, alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FireFly; Taxi-Aerobatics |
Nosing over a FS or FF is an easy thing to do and I would guess all
will do it at some point in figuring things out. Fortunately, it
isn't anywhere nearly as likely if the plane is moving, esp if there
is some prop wash on the tail. But if the wheel hits a rut or bump
that can appreciably slow down that wheel, the tail coming up is a
pretty sure thing. For reference, my tailwheel has 30lbs on it with
me (155 lbs) in the driver seat. Not much. One option to help is
big tundra tires ...they tolerate bigger bumps than small wheels.
Second time I nosed over I just said ok, no biggy, stuck my foot out
and pushed on ground -- didn't even shut off the engine or get out.
Call it standard op procedure. :)
See http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/15.html (with tundra tires)
or http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/mudflat.html (13" outside diam tires)
One item of caution against the interest in raising the ground
angle with longer legs ...and I've had this same thought with regard to
increased dihedral that was discussed months back. On the ground the
plane is more vulnerable to gusts while just sitting on 3 wheels. For
this reason I don't think I'll change dihedral much at all in my rebuild.
The tundra tires, at 18" outside diam, raise my ground AOA a little bit,
but this doesn't noticably affect nose-over tendency. Just careful on
the throttle while at rest is the main thing.
As you can imagine, I've thought a lot about ground gusts lately. :-/
-Ben
>
>While taxiing (Sp?) back to the hangar after my last flight I slowed for a
>rough spot in the grass and those tiny little wheels got stuck in a little
>tiny rut. I gently brought on some throttle to get her moving again. To my
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
(On Mkiii)
I have decided to try reflexing the flaps as part of my cruise speed/efficiency
improvements, and I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on a good starting
point (degrees of up angle). What will happen when I go too far? Has anyone
tried this and did it do anything?
My plan is to start using half-flaps for all take-offs, as I did last night.
That works fine, so I think I can reflex the flaps by adjusting the linkages,
for an optimum cruise position, then always use half flaps for takeoffs and at
least half flaps for landings.
I assume the stall will go up and I will experience some new trim bias (will it
tend to pitch the nose up?) with flaps reflexed.
Any info on your prior experience will help me. I will start playing with this
in a couple weeks. Thanks
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | More jabber about legs...(plane that is) |
Here is a thought ...(maybe a dumb one) can you fit a leg like the
slingshot uses to a M3 (which is angled forward , heat treated , etc.) This
would move the mains forward a few inches to turn it more into a "real"
taildragger if you are afraid of the nose over thing (I'm not calling it a
"problem" , it's just a character trait of Kolbs and there for a good
reason)
Would the "actual" slingshot leg work?? (i.e. length,socket diameter???)
That would make for an easy swap...no special parts to be custom made...
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
Kolb M3 wing & tail ...arrived!!!
EAA#583961 Local CH. #677
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: reflexing flaps |
I tried this on my FS. Results were nose up trim bias and no
noticable change in cruise speed. I didn't like the trim bias
so went back to my original config after one flight. (Leaving
"up" trim bias is generally a safety hazard too.) I think it
is worth playing with tho, just to get the feel for your own
plane's "envelope".
-Ben
>
>(On Mkiii)
>I have decided to try reflexing the flaps as part of my cruise
speed/efficiency
>improvements, and I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on a good
starting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
My memory (being what it is) is that the past threads on the subject
referred to (the MKII) having four stops on the flap handle; 1. Reflexed
position, 2. normal, 3. half 4. full. You'd use the reflexed "top stop" for
cruising only. I think people talked about gaining 5 mph on the MKII if I
remember correctly. I think the stall situation caused by this may be
something to think about, as Ben said in so many words below.
I didn't like the trim bias
so went back to my original config after one flight. (Leaving
"up" trim bias is generally a safety hazard too.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator cables and more |
I just got around to rigging the elevator cables and found that it is
next to impossible to pull the cable tight from the front end because
the turn buckle is inside the front end of the tail boom and this puts
the end I need to pull about 3 or 4 inches inside the tail boom. Anyone
have any tricks for rigging the elevator cables? I also discovered that
the elevator push pull tube is an inch or so too long, I called Kolb
and they are sending me a new shorter one, this brings to light
something I have wondered / worried about for a while. We the builder
are solely responsible for the condition of the aircraft, this includes
all the parts put together at the factory. I know there was another
builder out there that had the root steel rib tab welded on in the wrong
place and had to cut it off and have it welded after the wing was built.
This and my push pull tube become obvious that something is wrong
because the part wont fit. As a builder I have no idea what the steel
cage is suppose to look like, or if all the tubes have been welded on.
I have noticed that my cage is not symmetrical in that there are more
tubes on one side than the other. Does anyone else out there wonder if
the prebuilt parts were made the way the factory intended? I am not
talking about are the welds good, I can visually inspect them, but have
all the proper tubes been welded into my frame, I have no idea nor any
document or picture from the factory that I can check it against. Maybe
a suggestion for the new Kolb is to provide drawings and dimensions of
all the parts that come premade from the factory so if someone has a
hankering they can check their parts out before they have them powder
coated or attempt to install them. I don't want any one to read this
as me implying I have been provided inferior parts and kolb has been
great in providing me with replacement parts even though I purchased my
kit 3 or so years ago. I was just wondering if anyone else has ever
wondered about this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
How tight should I make them?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron counter weights |
Paul
It seems that some planes need them and some don't. Mine did. The first time
I
tried to test my MK III at 100 MPH, the ailerons started to flutter at 95 MPH.
I immediately reduced the power, raised the nose and started a turn and the
flutter stopped. I flew the plane a few hours and overtime I approached 95 MPH
it would start to flutter. One time the flutter progressed to a level the plane
started to shake and it scared me. I then ordered and installed the aileron
counter weights which fixed the problem.
Terry
Paul VonLindern wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm looking for opinions on the use of aileron counter weights on our
> MKIII. It has been built as per the plans, but would like some advice
> whether or not aileron counter weights would be needed.
>
> Thanks in advance
> PaulV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: reflexing flaps |
>
>(On Mkiii)
>I have decided to try reflexing the flaps as part of my cruise
speed/efficiency
>improvements, and I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on a good
starting
>point (degrees of up angle). What will happen when I go too far? Has anyone
>tried this and did it do anything?
Over the winter, one of the things I did with my MKIII was to grind out the 3
stock slots on the flap detent, and installed a modified system where I
now have 5 positions that I can have the flaps at.
The uppermost is slightly reflexed, maybe 4-5 degrees, that's enough.
then is normal, bottom of flaps parallel with wing bottom in flight,
then is very slightly down, maybe 4-5 degrees,
then is 15 degrees down
then is about 30 degrees down.
( I got rid of the 40 degrees down, because I had
an experience last fall of having to make a go-around with a heavy passenger
while I had 40 degrees of flaps in, and I was not happy with the sluggish
feel of
the elevator trying to keep the nose up at full throttle, and full flap. So
far, 30
degrees of flap seems almost as useful as 40 degrees, but not yet sure.)
So far, since I have had to fly off my new FAA time because of all my mods,
I have not had a passenger yet, so it remains to be seen what effect
this may have on everything.
One thing that is different: last year, I had the engine shimmed so that the
front of the engine (mag end) was about 1/4" higher than the rear, and it
was easier
to get it to trim out solo. But the climbout seemed worse.
This year it is by the book, and climb is great, but cannot seem to get it to
trim stably in pitch solo. Also, this is what happens when you change two
variables
at once. Will be putting the shim back into the front motor mount, and get
the flaps
sorted out, and then go back to playing engine shims.
Also modified the windshield again. Cockpit wind has decreased a bit more.
Seem to be on the right track. Retiring in 39 days, THEN I will have time
to sort
it all out.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables and more |
Jason
I don't know if you have a M / 3 or not ,but what I am referencing to is
for the M/3 only as far as I can remember the only thing that I though
that was strange was the tubes that are behind the pilot seat or the
pass. seat their seems to be a tube missing ,and the reason for that
Dennis S . told me was so one could remove the gas tank. but as far as
all the other 4130 it looks like their the same on both sides.Now on the
cable get your self a split bolt connector so you will be able to get
your cable the right length after you get the measurement REMOVE
the split bolt cont. and install your nicro press . you don't want it so
that you can play a tune on it , but you don't want it to have a lot of
sag either get it tought you may at this point think about putting
something on the cable like a ping pong balls ,foam , or what ever a lot
of the guy e's out their used to keep the cable rattle down hope this
help's you out
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>I just got around to rigging the elevator cables and found that it is
>next to impossible to pull the cable tight from the front end because
>the turn buckle is inside the front end of the tail boom and this puts
>the end I need to pull about 3 or 4 inches inside the tail boom.
>Anyone
>have any tricks for rigging the elevator cables? I also discovered
>that
>the elevator push pull tube is an inch or so too long, I called Kolb
>and they are sending me a new shorter one, this brings to light
>something I have wondered / worried about for a while. We the builder
>are solely responsible for the condition of the aircraft, this
>includes
>all the parts put together at the factory. I know there was another
>builder out there that had the root steel rib tab welded on in the
>wrong
>place and had to cut it off and have it welded after the wing was
>built.
>This and my push pull tube become obvious that something is wrong
>because the part wont fit. As a builder I have no idea what the steel
>cage is suppose to look like, or if all the tubes have been welded
>on.
>I have noticed that my cage is not symmetrical in that there are more
>tubes on one side than the other. Does anyone else out there wonder
>if
>the prebuilt parts were made the way the factory intended? I am not
>talking about are the welds good, I can visually inspect them, but
>have
>all the proper tubes been welded into my frame, I have no idea nor any
>document or picture from the factory that I can check it against.
>Maybe
>a suggestion for the new Kolb is to provide drawings and dimensions of
>all the parts that come premade from the factory so if someone has a
>hankering they can check their parts out before they have them powder
>coated or attempt to install them. I don't want any one to read this
>as me implying I have been provided inferior parts and kolb has been
>great in providing me with replacement parts even though I purchased
>my
>kit 3 or so years ago. I was just wondering if anyone else has ever
>wondered about this.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables and more |
Jason
I don't know if you have a M / 3 or not ,but what I am referencing to is
for the M/3 only as far as I can remember the only thing that I though
that was strange was the tubes that are behind the pilot seat or the
pass. seat their seems to be a tube missing ,and the reason for that
Dennis S . told me was so one could remove the gas tank. but as far as
all the other 4130 it looks like their the same on both sides.Now on the
cable get your self a split bolt connector so you will be able to get
your cable the right length after you get the measurement REMOVE
the split bolt cont. and install your nicro press . you don't want it so
that you can play a tune on it , but you don't want it to have a lot of
sag either get it tought you may at this point think about putting
something on the cable like a ping pong balls ,foam , or what ever a lot
of the guy e's out their used to keep the cable rattle down hope this
help's you out
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>I just got around to rigging the elevator cables and found that it is
>next to impossible to pull the cable tight from the front end because
>the turn buckle is inside the front end of the tail boom and this puts
>the end I need to pull about 3 or 4 inches inside the tail boom.
>Anyone
>have any tricks for rigging the elevator cables? I also discovered
>that
>the elevator push pull tube is an inch or so too long, I called Kolb
>and they are sending me a new shorter one, this brings to light
>something I have wondered / worried about for a while. We the builder
>are solely responsible for the condition of the aircraft, this
>includes
>all the parts put together at the factory. I know there was another
>builder out there that had the root steel rib tab welded on in the
>wrong
>place and had to cut it off and have it welded after the wing was
>built.
>This and my push pull tube become obvious that something is wrong
>because the part wont fit. As a builder I have no idea what the steel
>cage is suppose to look like, or if all the tubes have been welded
>on.
>I have noticed that my cage is not symmetrical in that there are more
>tubes on one side than the other. Does anyone else out there wonder
>if
>the prebuilt parts were made the way the factory intended? I am not
>talking about are the welds good, I can visually inspect them, but
>have
>all the proper tubes been welded into my frame, I have no idea nor any
>document or picture from the factory that I can check it against.
>Maybe
>a suggestion for the new Kolb is to provide drawings and dimensions of
>all the parts that come premade from the factory so if someone has a
>hankering they can check their parts out before they have them powder
>coated or attempt to install them. I don't want any one to read this
>as me implying I have been provided inferior parts and kolb has been
>great in providing me with replacement parts even though I purchased
>my
>kit 3 or so years ago. I was just wondering if anyone else has ever
>wondered about this.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FireFly; Taxi-Aerobatics |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Guys,
I wish I have a nickel (ok a dollar due to inflation) for all the times
I've put my Original FireStar on its nose during the early years. The
most likely situation for this to happen will always be taxiing in tall
grass or rough ground downwind during windy conditions. If the wheels
hit any resistance, over she goes unless the stick can go forward, in
time, to catch it. A tail-wind on the ground will force the tail down
with a lowered elevator, so I have to remember to do it before the
inevitable happens. The Original FireStar and KXP models are easier to go
over with less weight on the tailwheel. This isn't all that bad IF you
know what to expect on those windy days. It may not seem elegant, but
sometimes I will get out and turn the plane around without risking a
noseover. For those of us that fly from rough fields and snow-covered
lakes during the wintertime, the lighter weight on the tailwheel is an
advantage and I would not have it any other way. As an example, landing
in 3 feet of snow without a tail ski attached is possible. More aft
weight would not fair as well under these conditions and would make a
take off very interesting.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
writes:
>however, she is a real
>taildragger with 100+ lbs on the tailwheel. .
>
>john h (hauck's holler, alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables and more |
Hi Jason: There's an electrical connector called a "kerney." (Sp.)
It's a copper split bolt that tightens down with a single nut. I rigged my
cables with 2 crimp sleeves, thimble and all, then put the kerney below all
that, so that when it was in the tube, I could ( with great difficulty )
reach in with long nose vise grips to hold the loose end, and pull it tight,
then reach in with a wrench, ( what fun ) and snug up the kerney. Not too
tight, you Don't want to kink the cable, just keep it from slipping. I set
the turnbuckles at about 2/3 out, to give lots of adjustment room for cable
stretch, etc. Then remove the whole mess from the tube - carefully - and do
your thing on the crimp sleeves. Send the wife and kids away for the day,
and get a good nights sleep before. Mine came out very well, so I guess it
was worth it, but what a job ! ! ! Anyone come up with an easier way ??
When did who send you the shorter elevator push rod ?? Last weekend, Doc
pointed out that the push rod on mine was too long, and I said yeah, uh-huh,
and kind of glanced at it. Didn't really register what he was saying till I
saw your message. Thanks Doc; Sorry Doc. So, now I need the new rod
too, and who do I get it from ??
Big Lar.
> writes:
> >
> >I just got around to rigging the elevator cables and found that it is
> >next to impossible to pull the cable tight from the front end because
> >the turn buckle is inside the front end of the tail boom and this puts
> >the end I need to pull about 3 or 4 inches inside the tail boom.
> >Anyone
> >have any tricks for rigging the elevator cables? I also discovered
> >that
> >the elevator push pull tube is an inch or so too long, I called Kolb
> >and they are sending me a new shorter one, this brings to light
> >something I have wondered / worried about for a while. We the builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hale" <AccessToData(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FireFly; Taxi-Aerobatics |
We have a guy in our hanger that added a lawnmower type tire to the nose of
his firestar. He extended the frame inside the nose and cut out a slot in
the bottom of the nose so
that half the tire hangs out. I guess with the 503 it was common for him to
end up on his nose.
Brian Hale
Firestar 1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb wings found in garage |
From the rec.aviation.ultralight news group:
has found a set of Kolb wings in a garage.
Wants to know if they're worth anything.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | RE: FS II empenage stiffeners |
>
>
>
> I'm starting on my horizontal stabs of my FS and have a question.
> The plans
> call out for a stiffener inside one of the tubes (on the blue
> print), but the
> book just says to add stiffeners to the H.S. On the drawing it
> points out a
> stiffener under the hinge, but I also see another line on the
> blueprint and I
> don't know what that is. This line is on the forward facing tube
> within a few
> inches of the most outward tip. What is this line? Is it a mistake, or
> another stiffener? Any advice would be greatly excepted. Thanks
>
> Ron Reece
Dear Ron:
I'm sorry for taking so long to reply to your inquiry.
1. the line on the blueprint (leading edge of the horiz. stab.) appears to
be a misprint, not an extra stiffener.
2. the stiffeners in the empenage are there to accept the tail brace wires
(carry through bolts).
Special note: exercise some care here, as the kit includes one six inch
piece that is to be used as a stiffener in one of the empenage tubes. To
cut an extra one will short you out later in your project.
Good luck with your project, ask away either through the list or by direct
e-mail. This is a great resource that I was not aware of at the start of my
project.
Frank Hodson, Oxford ME
(Project Completed and awaiting N number/inspection)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike [mailto:rpike(at)preferred.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 1999 11:31 PM
Will be putting the shim back into the front motor mount,
Richard and Listers , according to my MK III documentation the "front" of
the 582 is shimmed about 3/16 or 1/4 inch higher than the "rear" (propellor
side) to give some down thrust. Has anyone on the list flown wiht an engine
parallel to the tail boom? What are the effects on the trim or pitch of
flying with no down thrust?
Coming from a FLightstar II the first time I performed a power off sall I
really scared my self. I allpied full power at the break and jammed the
stick forward. What a surprise going "over the top" like on a roller
coaster!!!!! Next time I throttled up i relaxed the stick and the nose came
down naturally and the bird flew out as nice as can be.
One thing I would like to discuss are the high aileron forces during cruise.
Is there something to I can do to lessen the stick forces? My arm gets
tired. BTW, I have dual controls so the sticks are shorter than the single
control and therefore have probably less leverage capcity. Have any of you
on the list tried aileron tip planes to assist in the deflection? Will
counter weights help or hinder?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FireFly; Taxi-Aerobatics |
I made a nosewheel assembly for my MKIII, it bolts on
in place of the hoop skid and braces solidly back to the
cage by the rear lower corners of the fairing. With the
nosewheel in place, I could lock the brakes, run the engine
to full throttle, and tip the airplane up into the 3 point attitude.
Then release the brakes, and away you go. It helped my weight
and balance, but it looked funny, and certainly added drag.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>We have a guy in our hanger that added a lawnmower type tire to the nose of
>his firestar. He extended the frame inside the nose and cut out a slot in
>the bottom of the nose so
>that half the tire hangs out. I guess with the 503 it was common for him to
>end up on his nose.
>
>
>Brian Hale
>Firestar 1
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Shimming MKIII Engine |
I was not aware of documentation concerning raising the front
of the motor. Could you elaborate please? Is it in the book?
Which book? Where?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>Richard and Listers , according to my MK III documentation the "front" of
>the 582 is shimmed about 3/16 or 1/4 inch higher than the "rear" (propellor
May 06, 1999 - May 28, 1999
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bl