Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bm
May 28, 1999 - June 21, 1999
>side) to give some down thrust.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
I had thought about adding aileron tip spades to lower
aileron force, but Dennis said that the tip vortices rolling
out from under the wing tip area make them useless.
I have thought of spades mounted under the center of the aileron,
but they would need to be quick detachable for when you
remove the wing, the aileron folds downward and they would
get in the way.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>One thing I would like to discuss are the high aileron forces during cruise.
>Is there something to I can do to lessen the stick forces? My arm gets
>tired. BTW, I have dual controls so the sticks are shorter than the single
>control and therefore have probably less leverage capacity. Have any of you
>on the list tried aileron tip planes to assist in the deflection? Will
>counter weights help or hinder?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | Shimming MKIII Engine |
I'll have to look it up but it's either on the plans or in the yellow
addendum manual. There's a picture, it seems to me, showing washers stacked
- 3 or 4 in the front and 2 in the rear on the engine mount studs-(under the
engine) NOT stacked on the engine rubber isolators/Lord mounts. MAke
sence? The engine has to be raised so it won't sit directly on the steel
plate. The position/angle of the engine on this steel plate is where the
thrust line is established or adjusted as shown...somewhere. I think I also
talked ot Dan or Dennis regarding this to clarify what they were expecting.
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike [mailto:rpike(at)preferred.com]
Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 10:28 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Shimming MKIII Engine
I was not aware of documentation concerning raising the front
of the motor. Could you elaborate please? Is it in the book?
Which book? Where?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>Richard and Listers , according to my MK III documentation the "front" of
>the 582 is shimmed about 3/16 or 1/4 inch higher than the "rear" (propellor
>side) to give some down thrust.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shimming MKIII Engine |
Mornin Gang:
I put 5/8 inch aluminum spacers under the front of the
engine mounts and 2 inch fender washers on top of the front
Lord Mounts. Can't remember when I did it, but it was
before I flew to Alaska with the 912 in Jun 94. Seemed like
a lot of difference between the thrust line and the bottom
of the wing. This angle was exagerated more when the engine
was under power. Ever notice how the thrust of the prop
pushes the engine forward and down and to the left for 912
and down and to the right for the two strokes.
The 5/8 inch spacers and the fender washers brought the
angle between the prop blades and the bottom of the wing to
aprx 90 degrees. Of course this changes some once the
engine is under power, and I do not know how much. I
figured it would be about right in flight.
I do not think there was any real remarkable difference
between with or with out the spacer, but that is the way
mine is now and has been for many hours.
john h
The fender washer keeps the spacer from depressing into the
top of the front Lord Mounts, especially the left front. I
believe it does help keep the thrust line inline with the
fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FireFly; Taxi-Aerobatics |
Thanks to all of you good folks for relieving my dented pride. I was hoping
that I wasn't the only one who has done the unscheduled nosestand trick. I
forgot to mention that when I hold the stick back while taxiing I always try
to remember to center it for takeoff :-)
Looks like a flying week end in N Fl. Duane the Plane in Tallahassee.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables and more |
Jason,
When I rigged the elevator cables I used a wire "Kerny" to clamp an
extension to the end of the cable you are trying to put tension on, and ran
that extension all the way through to the back of the boom tube where a
helper could pull it tight while I positioned the nicos for swaging.
The cage is assymetrical behind the seats so you can get the gas tanks in.
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Date: Thursday, May 27, 1999 4:35 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator cables and more
>
>I just got around to rigging the elevator cables and found that it is
>next to impossible to pull the cable tight from the front end because
>the turn buckle is inside the front end of the tail boom and this puts
>the end I need to pull about 3 or 4 inches inside the tail boom. Anyone
>have any tricks for rigging the elevator cables? I also discovered that
>the elevator push pull tube is an inch or so too long, I called Kolb
>and they are sending me a new shorter one, this brings to light
>something I have wondered / worried about for a while. We the builder
>are solely responsible for the condition of the aircraft, this includes
>all the parts put together at the factory. I know there was another
>builder out there that had the root steel rib tab welded on in the wrong
>place and had to cut it off and have it welded after the wing was built.
>This and my push pull tube become obvious that something is wrong
>because the part wont fit. As a builder I have no idea what the steel
>cage is suppose to look like, or if all the tubes have been welded on.
>I have noticed that my cage is not symmetrical in that there are more
>tubes on one side than the other. Does anyone else out there wonder if
>the prebuilt parts were made the way the factory intended? I am not
>talking about are the welds good, I can visually inspect them, but have
>all the proper tubes been welded into my frame, I have no idea nor any
>document or picture from the factory that I can check it against. Maybe
>a suggestion for the new Kolb is to provide drawings and dimensions of
>all the parts that come premade from the factory so if someone has a
>hankering they can check their parts out before they have them powder
>coated or attempt to install them. I don't want any one to read this
>as me implying I have been provided inferior parts and kolb has been
>great in providing me with replacement parts even though I purchased my
>kit 3 or so years ago. I was just wondering if anyone else has ever
>wondered about this.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FireFly; Taxi-Aerobatics |
Also, don't forget an important piece mentioned by Ralph. Holding
the stick back is recipe for nose-over if you have a tailwind while
taxi-ing. The rule(?) for taxiing a plane is to keep the stick
pointed the same direction the wind is blowing. This true for
trigear and taildragger but esp for taildraggers. My dad has
a broken prop on the wall from not knowing this simple rule on
his first Xcountry for his PPL. I think it was a PT-19. The
FBO's mechanic flew out a new prop tied to the gear of a PT-26.
No charge -- figured he learned a lesson. ...ah, the good ol days.
-Ben
>
>Thanks to all of you good folks for relieving my dented pride. I was hoping
>that I wasn't the only one who has done the unscheduled nosestand trick. I
>forgot to mention that when I hold the stick back while taxiing I always try
>to remember to center it for takeoff :-)
>Looks like a flying week end in N Fl. Duane the Plane in Tallahassee.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables and more |
Sounds like an excellent idea, Chris, easier and more secure than mine, but
how did you hold the position on the cable while you pulled it out for
swaging ?? Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Sudlow <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator cables and more
>
> Jason,
>
> When I rigged the elevator cables I used a wire "Kerny" to clamp an
> extension to the end of the cable you are trying to put tension on, and
ran
> that extension all the way through to the back of the boom tube where a
> helper could pull it tight while I positioned the nicos for swaging.
>
> The cage is assymetrical behind the seats so you can get the gas tanks in.
>
> chris
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
> To: 'Kolb builders'
> Date: Thursday, May 27, 1999 4:35 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator cables and more
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FireFly; Taxi-Aerobatics |
> installing the nose skid in case you
> ever put it up on the nose.
> Woody
> ALL KOLB pilots do that!!......they're sposed to...I think. ..........GeoR38
Never have....never will (knock on head-bone)....... ; )
J. Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables and more |
Jason -
I had the same experience, about noticing the assymetric placement of
steel tubes within the fuselage cage. Somewhere aft of the seating
area, there seems to be a particular tube on one side (pilot's), that is
noticeably missing on the other side. But I do not know the answer to
your question of whether this is s'posed to be this way or an omission
from the factory. Anybody else?
Dennis Kirby
70% built Mark-3 in New Mexico
> I have noticed that my cage is not symmetrical in that there are more
> tubes on one side than the other. Does anyone else out there wonder if
> the prebuilt parts were made the way the factory intended?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thermal Flying |
In a message dated 5/27/99 11:39:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, N51SK(at)aol.com
writes:
<< > Hey Steve, I used to glide in El Paso and Las Cruzes and was bombed by
the
> 1000 ft/min rise times and the "sand bouncin off" the bottom of my 2-33
> wings! I've tried soaring my Firestar in Ohio but can never find the
little
> puffy clouds you mentioned..........I have to look for the gaggles....of
> birds...only found 2 in 10 years and became the ugliest bird in the
> gaggle....( according to some of the raised bird eyebrows, i
got)........It
> is fun and VERY satisfying though......when sumpin wants to tip you
> over....fly right into it and keep circling!............GeoR38
>
Geo....
Thanks for the encouragement. I got a lot of time in one of those ugly old
2-33's but man you could ham fist that bird all over the sky and it would
still take care of you.
Now the next step up was quite a different bird altogether. A 1-26 would
stall-spin at the drop of a hat and I've be unintentionally upside down more
than once while circling at min sink and then getting a big upgust on one
side of the airplane. I think that must be why they made 1-26's
aerobatic....they needed to be!!!! I have often wondered why they would
make
a 1-26 the next step after the very docile 2-seat 2-33 trainer.....it's a
BIG step. In my soaring club the instructors would take anybody upgrading
from the 2-33 to the 1-26 for some spin training in the towplane (we had a
150 aerobat) It wasn't long before I realized why....I sure do miss
soaring...especially now that the summer is coming on here in Texas...that's
why I am trying to learn to soar my Mk2...
Steve Kroll >>
yea, your dead right about the 2nd glider being the I-26 (oil can), which I
have flown many times back in another life...in 79-80. but I've had some
great times in both styles...2-33 and 1-26....and I'm glad for that ol
experience of flying with no motor at all....makes me more greatful when my
447 actrually works so reliably....but I fly very defensively because of it
and essentially never really rely on the engine ....always on the plane.
Quite a few accidents seem to happen even by experienced pilots when they
forget to fly the plane...such a s Jim Lee and others....Our tow plane was a
Piper Cub with and big engine and 12 gal gas tank......where are you in
Texas? I came back from there in 80. I'll always love soaring too....man agin
Mother nature....we always lose , but we put up a fight!..I miss the boomin
thermals in Ohio...........GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Density altitude |
How closely do folks watch density altitude? Only when it gets hot &
sticky, or fly out of Denver?
Do you get out the old Koch chart, or do your joints tell you about it? I'm
going to be cutting my teeth soon in my new-to-me Mk II and am glad for the
warmth, but wonder about the performance penalty learning during the humid
summer months.
I've found a couple of interesting web sites that help.
metars: This takes has great coverage but takes several minutes to load
http://adds.awc-kc.noaa.gov/projects/adds/metars/java/index.html
Then with temp, due point and altimeter settings, go here for a density
altitude calculator:
http://nwselp.epcc.edu/elp/densityalt.html
David (getting antsy) Bruner
Mk II in Kingston, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Density altitude |
David Bruner wrote:
>
>
> How closely do folks watch density altitude? Only when it gets hot &
> sticky, or fly out of Denver?
>
Mornin David:
Normally in my little airplane I don't pay a lot of
attention to it. When summer gets here our performance a
decreased slightly over colder temps, but not really a
problem.
However, I had a rude awakening in the desert country of
West Texas, first landing I made into Terrell Co (6R6). Had
to get out the sectional to remember the name of the field
out in the middle of the bad lands at 2322 MSL, near a tiny
cross roads called Dryden. Middle of the afternoon in June,
hot, dry, and windy. To my surprise aprx a foot off the
runway at 50 MPH indicated, Miss P'fer quit flying. A
drastic change in DA since my last landing 110 miles down
the Rio Grande in Del Rio.
Lesson learned. I carried an additional 10 MPH on landings
and T/Os until I got out of the desert Southwest. Field
elevations in West Texas averaged 4000 to 5000 feet. A far
cry from field elevations in the Southeast.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thermal Flying |
In a message dated 5/29/99 12:23:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time, N51SK(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Somebody suggested ThermalStar for our
Kolb hybrid glider. I like it....
Steve Kroll >>
ThermalStar?....Kolb hybrid glider?.....que pasa Steve?....in other
words....what it be?................or is that a suggested name of the
Firestar?........I have only been successful soaring it twice in 15 years but
it is due to the lack of thermal activity in Ohio....I'm sure Dallas would be
boomin comparatively!!......my brother lives in Houston btw, and I go see
him and family once in a coons age............GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thermal Flying |
Just don't call it Flightstar ! ! ! Yuk yuk. Big Lar. Do not
Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 1999 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Thermal Flying
>
> In a message dated 5/29/99 12:23:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
N51SK(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> << Somebody suggested ThermalStar for our
> Kolb hybrid glider. I like it....
> Steve Kroll >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce" <bwf(at)wavetech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables and more |
On my M3 I have a door on the passenger side for the 3, 5 gal fuel tanks.
Bruce
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator cables and more
>
> Jason -
> I had the same experience, about noticing the assymetric placement of
> steel tubes within the fuselage cage. Somewhere aft of the seating
> area, there seems to be a particular tube on one side (pilot's), that is
> noticeably missing on the other side. But I do not know the answer to
> your question of whether this is s'posed to be this way or an omission
> from the factory. Anybody else?
> Dennis Kirby
> 70% built Mark-3 in New Mexico
>
>
> > I have noticed that my cage is not symmetrical in that there are more
> > tubes on one side than the other. Does anyone else out there wonder if
> > the prebuilt parts were made the way the factory intended?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Need Source for Rivets |
I need a source for stainless steel pop rivets - 4-1 $ 4-2's.
Since I need around 900 of them I assumed Kolb would kill me on price based
upon prior purchase so I called Aircraft Spruce.
I just hate dealing with these people based upon prior experience,
Alexander, please come back.) Got some guy on the phone. He wants my
customer number, right, I'm at work. He can't find me under my phone
number, so I tell him forget the customer number, I need a price on 900
rivet part number so and so. Next, he prompts me if am I going to order
them or just want a price. I need a price for 900 of them first then we
will see.
He quotes me a single unit price. I come back I need the discounted price
for 900 like they have in there catalog. He claims he could only quote me
single unit price. (I purchased pops from them before so I know better.)
I bring up the fact they have discount pricing based upon quantity
published in there 97 catalog. He proceeds to tell me he could not quote
me any discount price other than the single unit price until he can ID me
by my customer number. This is getting difficult. I finally terminate the
call seeing I wasn't getting anywhere with this guy. So I try to call back
in on the Customer Service number - they don't even answer that line. This
is customer service at it's best.
Any good source out there for rivets.
Also looks for good sources for sheet aluminum.
Thanks
Jerry Bidle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dorismae Wikre" <dormel(at)means.net> |
Who
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Source for Rivets |
Try Lockwood: they use 3/16" and 5/32" stainless rivits for Drifter hinge
attachments,
so I know they have them. 1-800-LA-ROTAX
Don't know if they discount for quantity.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>I need a source for stainless steel pop rivets - 4-1 $ 4-2's.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darren L Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
Group:
I removed my exhaust to weld a hairline crack, (front cyl flange to
pipe), and saw a scuffed area on both pistons, directly below the 2nd ring,
thats about 1/4" wide.The scuffed area barely catches my fingernail. The
skirts look O.K., all the rings are free, the cyl. walls look O.K. Doesn't
look normal to me though.(partial seizure??) The engine is a 2si460f-40
with 26 hrs. Any comments/ideas? (other than buying a rotax!! :)
Darren FS1 SN#594
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Source for Rivets |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> Try Lockwood: they use 3/16" and 5/32" stainless rivits for Drifter hinge
> attachments,
>
Morning Gang:
Kolb gets or got all their steel, alum, and hardware from
Dillsburg Aircraft in Dillsburg, Pa. I don't have the
number handy right now, but will go find an invoice with the
number. Haven't used them since 93 cause I haven't broken
my airplane in a while. ;-)
Dillsburg will certainly beat prices of the normal aircraft
parts houses we mail order from.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gallar" <MikeG(at)ij.net> |
Hello All,
My name is Mike Gallar, I'm a first time Kolb owner and builder, just
received my kit this week and I have a few
question for you experienced kolb builders. I want to have my fuse power
coated, but want to make sure that
I do what I need to do to minimize any excessive abuse after I get it
coated, any suggestions on were to start.
I went with the dual control sticks, But there is no reference on the
plans or the manual on the setup of the
linkages, I'm certain that I need to weld the stick mount to frame before
coating.
As an after thought I live in Seffner, Fl just about 10 Miles east of
Tampa, makes it nice for Sun-N-Fun.
Had a chance to meet a few guys at the fly in, John Hauck and Peter Volum,
meet John the day I purchased my
Kolb (fire sale) and Peter the day I went for my first ride in the plane he
purchased from Kolb. I live on a
78 acre farm where we raise hay and also have a family bussiness Ganes
Industrial Tool & Supply in
Tampa. I look forward to alot of camaraderie with you guys.
Thanks,
Mike Gallar
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need Source for Rivets |
The Dillsburg Aeroplane Works 717-432-4589
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Source for Rivets |
Dickk9(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> The Dillsburg Aeroplane Works 717-432-4589
>
Thanks Dick. I got preoccupied before I got a chance to
look up the number.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/29/99 |
To anyone who cares, I was under the understanding that the angled bar
accross the back of the seat cage really was designed to take up the same
stress as and X configuration. This way you can remove the bolt on the
linkage to the ails and pull the tank out. I have done it. It is tight but
you can do it. Had density altitude today near Phenix City, Al. Was hot and
humid this morning. Got 2000 extra rpms on the tack before even moving.
Climb was slow but satisfactory. I love my Kolb Firestar.
Anybody have any pictures of your Ultrastars hanging around, flying or not?
Got one I restored and would enjoy imput. Takeoff speed, landing, stall
etc., any differences
between firestar and ultrastar performance, other than speed of course.
Jpeg. Thanks. Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Source for Rivets |
I've been following this with total amazement. Isn't it something how one
employee can ruin the reputation of a company ?? I've been dealing with
Spruce West for 2 years now, and have placed many, many orders in building
my Mk III. They have always been great in every respect, and I can't think
of any thing at all to gripe about. Believe me, I'm picky and cranky. If
someone gives me a bad time, I'll cloud up and rain all over them - right
now ! ! ! The few problems I've had were taken care of instantly, and
with a smiling voice. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 1999 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Need Source for Rivets
>
> >
> >writes:
> >>
> >>I need a source for stainless steel pop rivets - 4-1 $ 4-2's.
> >>
> >>Since I need around 900 of them I assumed Kolb would kill me on price
> >>based
> >>upon prior purchase so I called Aircraft Spruce.
> >>I just hate dealing with these people based upon prior experience,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Breakfast flyin |
Sounds like I'm not the only one who got to play this weekend. Nice trip,
Bill, but it sure is too bad about the 2 planes crunching. Thanks much.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WVarnes(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 1999 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: EAA Breakfast flyin
>
>
> << Weather forecast looks great for EAA Breakfast Flyin at Smoketown PA on
> Sunday May 30. Hope to see some of you there. >>
>
>
> Terry,
>
> You were absolutely right. What a beautiful day.
>
> I woke up to my alarm at 4:30 A.M. The sun wasn't up yet, but there was a
> beautiful moon! After shaving, etc., drove 32 miles to Alloway airport.
> Pulled the FireStar out of the storage tent, set up the wings and tail,
then
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dorismae Wikre" <dormel(at)means.net> |
Please send the "who" list.
dormel(at)means.net
Mel Wikre
Rt 1 Box 314
Lanesboro, MN. 55949
91:53:55w
43:46:03n
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
Hi Mike
Welcome aboard this is a good list to get info from about your airplane
,hope all goes well with your project ,don't be bashful get on line you
will get an answer. good luck
Rick Libersat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
John
got the stator changed out a pice of cake don't know if I would use an
impact it went well without one. just put the locking pin in and it was
just nothing to it
their is some difference on stator DICK may be able to help with the
difference is on each coil after it has been wound it goes to the next
pole to be wound .On one stator
you will have just one wire from pole to pole on the new stator you have
2 wires leaving each pole hope this makes sense , also GREG at E I S bold
me that just recently he has been getting calls from 912 guyes saying
that the tach is not working right so what eis is doing is having the
912 guys put a 10k ris. in line with their E I S
wonder if this other wire on the stator is the reason
Rick Libersat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables and more |
Big Lar,
Once the tension was on the cable, I positioned the nicos, and tightened
them up with a kerny that held them while removing the cable for swaging.
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator cables and more
>
>Sounds like an excellent idea, Chris, easier and more secure than mine, but
>how did you hold the position on the cable while you pulled it out for
>swaging ?? Big Lar.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Chris Sudlow <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
>To:
>Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 2:57 PM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator cables and more
>
>
>>
>> Jason,
>>
>> When I rigged the elevator cables I used a wire "Kerny" to clamp an
>> extension to the end of the cable you are trying to put tension on, and
>ran
>> that extension all the way through to the back of the boom tube where a
>> helper could pull it tight while I positioned the nicos for swaging.
>>
>> The cage is assymetrical behind the seats so you can get the gas tanks
in.
>>
>> chris
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
>> To: 'Kolb builders'
>> Date: Thursday, May 27, 1999 4:35 PM
>> Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator cables and more
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
Kolbers,
FWIW...
Yesterday, took the plane out for a spin, nice and calm... visiters
watching.. Memorial holiday and all.
After lifting off, noticed that air speed was incredibly low... about 15-20.
I have short runway and cannot abort easily... engine running great.
After airborne I realized that the airspeed was completely lying and that I
had to get back FAST to mother earth cuz I didnt know how fast (or slow) I
was going! Eventually the indicator showed 65 but stayed glued to that
setting! I landed running real fast (better than real slow) and had a bad
looking but safe landing. After stopping, the indicator slowly came back
from 65 to 0 in slow motion.
The pitot was open, but about 10 inches up the tube was a clog of dirt, I
squeezed it to break it up and not only did the dirt come out, but also a
small clog of worms (larvae?) right behind it! Those buggers coulda cost me
a hospital claim!
I then took off again, (still a little scared) (try imagining no airspeed
indicator and flying safely!) and wouldnt you know it, became airborne and
STILL NO AIRSPEED indication again!! Well, I knew what to do, land FAST and
soon. I did OK (glad I learned to land FAST) and this time wasnt going to
fly anmore unless I found more blockage somewhere....
The tube all the way to the instrument was CLEAR... so I took off the
plastic barb at the back and wouldnt you know it::: another packed clog of
dirt and MORE WORMS... they were wiggling... ALIVE! I was flying just 48
hours ago...... I hangar outside ... but of all places.... what were the
chances of them using this location????
Cleaned them out, reassembled, and went flying, with a new appreciation of
that airspeed system. Now you will find a plastic cover over the pitot tube
when not flying..... and a string attached that lies in the cockpit so I can
remember to preflite it off....
SO, FWIW.... think about keeping yours covered, too... its very scary flying
with not just NO airspeed indication, but an erroneous indication form a
clogged/partially clogged system!
Jon
near Greenbay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heart stoppage |
Vince Nicely wrote:
>
> Has any one experience training with loss of VFR instruments such as
> airspeed and/or have opinions on potential problems when used for practice
> and/or emergency purposes?
Vince and Gang:
Yep. My IP, oops, CFI pulled that on me when I was getting
my private fixed wing ticket. During night orientation he
also turned out all the panel lights, nada, while shooting
T/Os and landings!!! With the CFI on board, ain't no
problem. But when it happens to me unexpected, I have to be
prepared for it.
I reckon for me, since I am not a BFI or CFI I can't tell
anybody else how to do it, however, the first thing I do is:
Stay calm.
Don't get in a hurry or rush the situation. The aircraft
will fly just fine without an ASI.
Keep the airspeed up until I can find a good place to land,
i.e., a nice airport. I don't think I would land off site
unless it was a real good hay field or someplace similar.
Fly the aircraft to the ground like normal.
Probably, number one should be practice this exercise at
altitude until you feel comfortable flying around without
the ASI. Do that a lot anyhow.
Also learn the different attitudes of the aircraft in
straight and level flight, climbing, and descending for
landing. My little red headed IP in Army Rotary Wing
Training used to pound into my head to learn the attitude of
the aircraft in relation to the horizon. Then I would be
able to maintain constant airspeed and altitude once I got
the helicopter set up for cruise. I think the same applies
for fixed wings.
I still keep a good cross check on the ASI during T/Os and
landings, and especially when maneuvering at any low
altitude that I could not recover from a stall. We have
lost more than our share of Kolb pilots to low level
stall/spin accidents. Won't happen as long as we keep it
above the stall speed for the maneuver we are executing.
john h (watching the raindrops fall in hauck's holler,
alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heart stoppage (the ASI) |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Jon,
May I mention that you should be able, with experience, to fly your Kolb
without any airspeed indicator at all. This takes practice, but please
remember the plane does not need an ASI to fly safely. I test flew a
friends FS I on its maiden flight and guess what, it didn't work! Did I
panic? No, I was able to judge the airspeed by:
1) Looking at the position of the stick relative to the AOA of wing and
engine RPM.
2) Feeling the pressure of the relative wind by sticking my hand out in
the windstream (don't laugh, it works).
This is a good example of the differences between GA and ultralight
flying. We have sufficient drag that keeps us safe from building up
excessive speed and don't have to depend on ANY of our instruments if one
goes out. One would think this would make the sport much safer. Well it
does, but there are guys that will fly a ppc (a machine that is extremely
safe - has 3 controls: left, right, throttle, and flies at only one
speed) into trees, hangers, and the like.
I'm happy to see that you made it back to the field safely. This was your
first lesson without the ASI. In the future, as you are flying along,
place your hand out in the windstream (if you have an open cockpit) and
get the feel of the wind at various speeds. You will get accustomed to
the speeds that you fly and if the ASI goes belly up, that doesn't mean
you have to follow suit.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
writes:
>SO, FWIW.... think about keeping yours covered, too... its very scary
>flying
>with not just NO airspeed indication, but an erroneous indication form
>a
>clogged/partially clogged system!
>
>Jon
>near Greenbay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dama(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re:Airspeed Indicator Failure |
As a CFI, covering the ASI is common practice and I offer students very
simple advice. Keep the nose as low as reasonably possible and you can't
get into trouble. Hardcore faith in what that little dial is not a good
idea. First because of instrument error (fast or slow). And secondly, speed
is not directly the cause of you falling out of the sky. Think of a
waterski planing the water (hey, we plane the air). The feet on the ski
which control the angle of the ski are like our hands that operate the
elevator. Both can select ski/wing angle. If either slow down, both must
increase pitch to avoid sinking. If you hit an extreme angle on the ski you
are mushing and down you go, same as the wing (stall). Bottom line, if the
ASI is out climb shallower, approach steeper, and watch that bank angle.
That should keep your skis above the water.
Kip Laurie
FS-705
Atlanta
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Heart stoppage
>
>
>Vince Nicely wrote:
>>
>
>> Has any one experience training with loss of VFR instruments such as
>> airspeed and/or have opinions on potential problems when used for
practice
>> and/or emergency purposes?
>
>
>Vince and Gang:
>
>Yep. My IP, oops, CFI pulled that on me when I was getting
>my private fixed wing ticket. During night orientation he
>also turned out all the panel lights, nada, while shooting
>T/Os and landings!!! With the CFI on board, ain't no
>problem. But when it happens to me unexpected, I have to be
>prepared for it.
>
>I reckon for me, since I am not a BFI or CFI I can't tell
>anybody else how to do it, however, the first thing I do is:
>
>Stay calm.
>
>Don't get in a hurry or rush the situation. The aircraft
>will fly just fine without an ASI.
>
>Keep the airspeed up until I can find a good place to land,
>i.e., a nice airport. I don't think I would land off site
>unless it was a real good hay field or someplace similar.
>
>Fly the aircraft to the ground like normal.
>
>Probably, number one should be practice this exercise at
>altitude until you feel comfortable flying around without
>the ASI. Do that a lot anyhow.
>
>Also learn the different attitudes of the aircraft in
>straight and level flight, climbing, and descending for
>landing. My little red headed IP in Army Rotary Wing
>Training used to pound into my head to learn the attitude of
>the aircraft in relation to the horizon. Then I would be
>able to maintain constant airspeed and altitude once I got
>the helicopter set up for cruise. I think the same applies
>for fixed wings.
>
>I still keep a good cross check on the ASI during T/Os and
>landings, and especially when maneuvering at any low
>altitude that I could not recover from a stall. We have
>lost more than our share of Kolb pilots to low level
>stall/spin accidents. Won't happen as long as we keep it
>above the stall speed for the maneuver we are executing.
>
>john h (watching the raindrops fall in hauck's holler,
>alabama)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heart stoppage |
Hi Guys;
Here is my little heart stopper story for the weekend. My wife was
going over to her sisters house for the weekend, they live over by Lacrosse
Wi. about 350 miles by car. My brother-in-law has been wanting to see my new
FS11, so I thought I would take a buzz over to there place. It is about 250
miles by air. This was my first long cross-country in the new plane and the
weather was going to be great for two days.
I found several nice little airports to stop at along the way to get
gas and take a break. If anyone ever get up to NE Wi. stop at Piso field near
Suring. Neat grass strip and little gas station convenience store, you can
pull right up to the pumps, get gas and food. To get on with the story. I
made the trip with no problems, the plane flew great and the wind was less
than 5 knots all the way.
Now for the heart part. The brother-in laws place is in a small valley
with 1800 ft of grass behind his barn. I had been there about three weeks ago
and the strip looked good, called him the night before I left and he said the
grass was a little high but not bad. So off I go, left about 1 hour after the
wife and had a couple of stops for gas and lunch. I got to his place, made
the turn up the valley over the barn and down I go. The field looked good
from the air, but as soon as I touched down I new I was in trouble. The grass
was up to the cockpit, I pulled the stick back but nothing happened, the tail
was laying on top of the grass and would not do anything. The next thing I
know she is starting to nose over like I had slammed on the brakes, still
doing about 25 mph. I saw the nose hit the ground and then the shit hit the
fan. The nosecone broke up and the front of the cage dug in and over I went.
This all happen in about 3 seconds. I was upside down in the cage so I popped
the safteybelt loose and rolled out, gas running all over the place. I
grabbed my knife and cut the tanks loose and got out of the way real fast.
This is one tough plane, the grass had wrapped up around the wheels and
brakes and stopped me in my tracks, all I got was a little skuff on my leg.
The plane wasn't so luck. Broke the tail boom in half and bent the front
of the cage pretty good and broke the prop. The top of the rudder was mashed
to the first rib, but that was it. The wings, tail and engine and the cage
behind the seat are fine. If I can get a front section of cage from Kolb I
will be back in the air in a couple of weeks
The moral of this story is don, t trust your brother-in-law to give you
field conditions The grass was not bad by the barn but got real thick up the
valley a little ways. The wife wasn't a happy camper when she got the 5
minutes later either.
I will call Kolb tomorrow and order the parts to get her in the air
again. Now I know how Ben feels.
Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heart stoppage |
Jon:
Interesting and informative tale. Happened to me too, just AFTER I installed
a VSI. Returned to airport using approach power and 500 fpm descent and it
worked great.
Bill George
Mk-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
Evenin',
Never owned a bathroom scale, so had to buy one for my new-to-me Mk II. She
weighs 327#.
Did the tail weight with it raised up to the point where the bottom of the
wings were level. Then looked at the old papers that describe the w&b
procedures. They're taken in straight & level flight attitude- and the
wings aren't level. But I can't find the height of the tail anywhere.
Anyone know how high the tail should be raised?
TIA
David (getting close! Broke in the new pistons today) Bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Had our annual spring fly in this last Saturday, and it was a dandy.
Good weather, no wind to amount to anything, good food, good turnout.
One problem: one of the club members has recently gotten a powered parachute,
and I guess maybe he also got an instructors license, because he spent the best
part of the day taking people for rides ( which is good), and the ride was
typically
a takeoff followed by an immediate turn and low pass back across the flightline
and the crowd, and then a number of turns and low passes across the runway.
Several fixed wings had to go around because of his actions, and on a couple
of his low passes, he almost clipped the rudders of the parked aircraft.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to handle this sort of thing?
Or am I just too sensitive, and maybe ought to just mind my own business and
ignore it? I know I am quick to have an opinion, but I wanted to tell him
he was
being a real pest.
Input? Feedback?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heart stoppage |
Kenmead(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
the turn up the valley over the barn and down I go. The
field looked good
> from the air, but as soon as I touched down I new I was in trouble. The grass
> was up to the cockpit, I pulled the stick back but nothing happened, the tail
> was laying on top of the grass and would not do anything. The next thing I
> know she is starting to nose over like I had slammed on the brakes, still
> doing about 25 mph. I saw the nose hit the ground and then the shit hit the
>
Ken and Kolb Gang:
Sorry to hear about your accident. The main thing is you
are all right and the plane can be rebuilt, or even in worse
case build another. Would not have been a good time for a
post crash fire.
This is another incident that reassures me I did the right
thing when I moved the main gear forward and put that weight
on the tail wheel. The closest I came to nosing over was in
Alaska. I knew I was in trouble as soon as the main gear
got in the brush, that I thought was high grass and weeds.
I went full throttle and aft stick and plowed/flew through
this stuff until it thinned a little and the MK III started
to climb out of it.
Another incident/accident happened early on, 37 hours on my
Firestar. Descending from 2,000 feet while crossing the
large lake I live on a spark plug fouled. Can't fly far on
one cylinder on an old 447 (this was 1987). I kept nursing
it looking for a good place to land without breaking my new
Firestar. I was flying over mature cotton plants, down the
rows. The Firestar finally started settling in the cotton
tops with the main gear. The rows didn't line up with my
main gear. Thought I had it made. Slowing down more and
the tail is in the cotton, especially the tail wires.
Elevators just along for the ride now. What seemed like
just before I stopped rolling the nose started going down as
if in slow motion. The nose over didn't stop when the nose
hit the ground. The nose dug in and ever so slowly over I
went inverted. I was wearing my Jim Handbury Hand Deployed
Parachute plus a four point harness. Had on one of my old
Army Helicopter Pilots Helmets. Gas was leaking from the
vented cap of the Ken Brock Seat Tank I was sitting in
running down the back of my neck and into my helmet. I was
confused and even though inverted I was thinking right side
up while trying to get the seat belt and shoulder harness
off, then trying to get the parachute bridal disconnected
from the parachute. I was near panic for fear of fire.
Finally got out from under the Firestar and clear. Had some
damage that was repairable. Next day got it out of the
cotton field and flew it home for repair.
The first repair I made was to seal the seat tank fuel cap
and make another vent with tube running out the bottom of
the fuselage so if I got into this situation again I would
not have fuel leaking on me and the airplane.
My MK III has an overboard fuel vent out the bottom of the
fuselage. Did that during the construction phase.
Again, Ken, glad you are physically ok. I know you feel
bad. When something like this happens to me I am devastated
and depressed until I start rebuilding or repairing.
Fly safe and have fun.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> > Several fixed wings had to go around because of his actions, and on a couple
> of his low passes, he almost clipped the rudders of the parked aircraft.
> Does anyone have any suggestions on how to handle this sort of thing?
> Or am I just too sensitive, and maybe ought to just mind my own business and
> ignore it? I know I am quick to have an opinion, but I wanted to tell him
> he was
> being a real pest.
> Input? Feedback?
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
Richard and Gang:
Wrap his suspension lines around his prop and him too. ;-)
Need to confront him eye ball to eye ball. Bet he didn't
have liability insurance.
Similar situation at flyin Wrens, Georgia, couple weekends
ago. Not nearly as bad as your guy, but there were a dozen
or so flying parachutes. Several started turning over my
parked airplane to land or flying right down the whole
flight line over aircraft to land.
Number one it is a cardinal rule to never overfly another
aircraft on the ground, taking off or landing aircraft
should not be overflown by an aircraft "going around." I
shook my fist at a couple parachutes and they got the
message as they flew over. I would have a hard time trying
to control myself if another airplane or parachute overflew
and accidently crashed into my airplane. Usually I am a
long way from home and my airplane is my only
transportation.
Unless ab-so-lute-ly necessary, never overfly my airplane
(or any body elses).
john h
MK III
N101AB
M3-011
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heart stoppage |
>
>Kolbers,
>
>
>FWIW...
>
>Yesterday, took the plane out for a spin, nice and calm... visiters
>watching.. Memorial holiday and all.
>
>After lifting off, noticed that air speed was incredibly low... about 15-20.
>I have short runway and cannot abort easily...
>
>The pitot was open, but about 10 inches up the tube was a clog of dirt,
Dirt dobbers. Litter black looking flying wasp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
>a takeoff followed by an immediate turn and low pass back across the
flightline
>and the crowd, and then a number of turns and low passes across the runway.
>Several fixed wings had to go around because of his actions, and on a
couple
>of his low passes, he almost clipped the rudders of the parked aircraft.
This is propbably giving us ultralighters a taste of what the GA crowd feels
like when we invaded "their" space. We fly too slow and use too small a
pattern and meny of us dont know the rules very well. My neighbor flies a
PP all around our neighborhood at about ten feet above the houses. I went
to the airport to wait for him to land so I could explain that he was being
rude, unsafe and breaking the law... when I got there he was just taking off
for another flight. to impress his passenger and spectators he flew at
about 6 feet agl straight at the spectators and the FBO that they were
standing in front of. at the last second he gunned it and first cleared the
spectators heads by about 3 feet, (thats after they ducked) cleared the roof
of the FBO by about the same and then as his zoom climb capability was used
up and he swung under the chute like a pendulum he headed for the electrical
wires that feed the FBO building and hangers. I think he just nicked em.
maybe just missed em. pretty sure he never saw them. I was at that point
just able to realize that my attitude would no longer allow a freindly
little comment on overflying houses and left before he landed. I am pretty
sure If I stayed I would no longer have a neighborly relationship with this
barnstormer. Wish I had a short neat summary of the rules I could just drop
off at his house and say "thought you would find this useful."
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
----------
> From: Larry & Karen Cottrel <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
> To:
> Subject: nuisances
> Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 10:50 PM
>
> Richard and Gang,
> There must be something about the parachutes that slows your brain. I
> went to a flyin in Christmas Valley Oregon last weekend. It was my first
> flight of the season.( the weather has been nothing less than miserable
all
> spring) The flyin was held by the Knox Butte Flying club in Albany
Oregon,
> and is put on by one of the guys that owns a bit of ground at the end of
> the runway. I had gone out for a 80 mile flight and was returning because
> of a tired butt. As I approached the airport I saw a GA plane take off,
and
> a powered parachute in the pattern for a landing. (I seemed to be the
only
> one there with a radio) I circled to give him a chance to land, upon my
> second approach to the pattern the guy is setting in the middle of the
> runway fooling with his chute. I circled again only to find him standing
in
> the middle of the runway packing his chute in its ditty bag. When I
roared
> over his head at about 5 feet and 80 mph, he began to see that he might
not
> be the only one in the world that used runways. I landed and taxied back
to
> the staging area waiting for him to reappear. When he did we had a heart
to
> heart. I must have been extra tactfull that day, because he was still
> talking to me when he left, but he damn sure didn't stop in the middle of
> the runway anymore. He actually told me that one of his instructors told
> him that when he was on the runway, it was his until he was done. The guy
> was a high school principal, I personally think that he had been educated
> to the point that he was stupid again. Another of the "chutist" was
scaring
> some of the local livestock, and triggered a complaint. Picture the high
> Desert of Oregon and see if all you can find to fly around is a bunch of
> cows.
> Larry
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heart stoppage |
In a message dated 5/31/99 12:22:11 PM Central Daylight Time,
joncroke(at)itol.com writes:
> The pitot was open, but about 10 inches up the tube was a clog of dirt, I
> squeezed it to break it up and not only did the dirt come out, but also a
> small clog of worms (larvae?) right behind it! Those buggers coulda cost
me
> a hospital claim!
Yup...pitot cover ought to be standard equipment...hornets and wasps love
those pitots to lay eggs in and they can do it in as little as a couple of
hours. You can buy pitot covers but you might have trouble fitting them if
you are using anything other than a standard size tube for your pitot.
Here's a good homemade one for just a few cents in parts.
Get a piece of rubber hose with an inside diameter the same as the outside
diameter of your pitot tube. Attach a nice bright (preferably red) cloth to
it and screw a bolt into the end of it. Wa la...pitot tube cover for
pennies.....you can't miss it either in your preflight.....assuming the tube
is on your list like it is on mine. Don't feel bad.....that ain't even close
to the first time that ever happened!!
Steve Kroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: reckless flyers |
You're right, Topher, but somehow we've got to catch up with those guys, and
somehow maintain our cool, ( and I'm a fine, explosive, one to talk ), and
read to them from the book. They're hurting all of us. Reference the
talk about buzzing cows tonight, and think of my posting a month or 2 ago
about the same thing in Sequim, WA. It takes calm, easy going people, and
turns them into Red-Eyed Ragers. GA pilots have to learn acceptance, too,
and I guess I'm lucky, cause the only problem I've had regarding U/L's was
at the FBO that ultimately taught me to fly GA. When I was their student,
there was lots of talk pro and con, and ultimately the owner's ( now
retired ) have become among my closest friends - and have become much more
receptive to U/L's. This is in spite of 1 yo-yo BFI up there who caused no
end of problems with the Coast Guard Base, Horizon Air, Port Authority, and
FAA with his U/L, including flying it directly over Port Angeles repeatedly,
a town of 20,000 people. Not to mention a minor mid-air with a Beech
Sundowner at Port Townsend. I could go on all night, but the point
remains - public relations are up to us, ultimately. Phew.
Soap Box Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Christopher John Armstrong <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 10:37 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: reckless flyers
>
>
> >a takeoff followed by an immediate turn and low pass back across the
> flightline
> >and the crowd, and then a number of turns and low passes across the
runway.
> >Several fixed wings had to go around because of his actions, and on a
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
Hi Mike, I have probably the first MKIII with dual controls in the country.
Dennis and Dan build their dual control plane to figure out how to produce
the option and I think mine was the first out of the box. I had the cage
powder coated by Kolb. Everything was powder coated and the dual controls
were installed and coated at the same time. One down side was the fact that
the powder coating worked it's way into the dual controls movements and
stiffened up the works. It's taken a lot of efforts and WD 40 to loosen
things up. Powder caoting is worth the cost. It'll save you losts of time,
it's unbeleievably durable and is a good primer if you want to paint over
it.
BTW, the big drawback on duals is entry into the plane. It's a bit
difficult for older people. You pick the age, I don't want to get into
trouble with this crowd. I also wish Kolb would move the throttle stick
forward about four inches or more. With two people in the plane it's tough
to operate it. Elbows and arms get in the way.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Gallar [mailto:MikeG(at)ij.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 1999 1:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Newby
Hello All,
My name is Mike Gallar, I'm a first time Kolb owner and builder, just
received my kit this week and I have a few
question for you experienced kolb builders. I want to have my fuse power
coated, but want to make sure that
I do what I need to do to minimize any excessive abuse after I get it
coated, any suggestions on were to start.
I went with the dual control sticks, But there is no reference on the
plans or the manual on the setup of the
linkages, I'm certain that I need to weld the stick mount to frame before
coating.
As an after thought I live in Seffner, Fl just about 10 Miles east of
Tampa, makes it nice for Sun-N-Fun.
Had a chance to meet a few guys at the fly in, John Hauck and Peter Volum,
meet John the day I purchased my
Kolb (fire sale) and Peter the day I went for my first ride in the plane he
purchased from Kolb. I live on a
78 acre farm where we raise hay and also have a family bussiness Ganes
Industrial Tool & Supply in
Tampa. I look forward to alot of camaraderie with you guys.
Thanks,
Mike Gallar
________________________________________________________________________________
Vince Nicely wrote:
>
> Has any one experience training with loss of VFR instruments such as
> airspeed and/or have opinions on potential problems when used for practice
> and/or emergency purposes?
About a month ago I took off at a local airfield in my Firestar. On takeoff
my airspeed indicator functioned normally. On climb out I noticed it had
dropped to zero. I went around the pattern and landed normally. When I
inspected the pickup tube I found a bee stuck firmly in the line. What are
the odds?
Steve Anderson
Black Hills of South Dakota
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AWIA" <awia(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 05/31/99 |
Fail airspeed indicator.
Has any one had experience with an angle-of-attack indicator such as the
"Bacon Saver" on a Kolb. This would seem the ideal backup for the airspeed
indicator since it is quite simple and angle-of-attack
is a great indicator of stall no matter what the conditions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
"Thompson, Todd" wrote:
>
>
> Hi Mike, I have probably the first MKIII with dual controls in the country.
> Dennis and Dan build their dual control plane to figure out how to produce
> the option and I think mine was the first out of the box. I had the cage
Mornin Todd and Kolb Gang:
I read with great interest the above claim to first MK III
with dual controls in the country. Maybe you can clarify
that a little. What date was that?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
"David Bruner" asks:
<>
Don't have a set of Mk II plans but the Firestars, Firefly and Mk III
all specify the bottom of the wing should be angled up 9 degrees.
Presume the Mk II is the same.
Measure the distance from the front spar tube to the rear spar tube on
the wing. Then raise the tail until the front tube is higher than the
rear by 0.1564 times the distance between them. For ease of measurement
I use the bottom edges of the tubes for reference.
Tom Kuffel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heart stoppage |
Group,
Firestars (and probably all Kolbs) can be flown safely without
airspeed indicators. Here is how I have done it: First, don't climb
withouth full power. Second maintain enough RPM to maintain altitude
until within 3 feet of the ground. This will work good unless your
runway is short like mine (500 feet). Don't land on a short runway
without airspeed. Fly to a longer runway to clean out the tube. Landing
on a short runway without an airspeed is risky. But flying without
airspeed should be no problem as long as the tach is working and you are
familiar with the plane and usual RPM's.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
David,
The Firestar angle for W&B is 9 degrees which puts the leading edge
7.5 inches higher then the trailing edge. Probably your Mark II is the
same but it should be comfirmed.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
>
> "Thompson, Todd" wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi Mike, I have probably the first MKIII with dual controls in the
> country.
Hi Todd and Kolb Gang:
Sorry. Misunderstood the above. Read like your MK III was
the first to be equipped with dual controls. We designed
and built dual controls for my MK III in March 1991, but
they were not factory designed and packaged. However, they
got Homer's blessing at the time. I must add that those
were the first set we built. Before we got what we wanted
we had modified the design quite a few times until we got to
the set I am flying with today. The first set I flew with
did not have enough throw. Was like flying a helicopter
with the hydraulics out. Minimum amount of stick movement,
maximum effort. ;-)
I fly from right seat. Removed the stick on the left
side. Really simplifies getting passengers in and out.
With the stick in place, folks had to fly with legs spread
wide during t/o's and landings to get me enough lateral
movement. Also had some incidents with people kicking
inside of windshield throwing their foot over the stick.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
David...
I bought my Mk2 in 1988 and the weight and balance sheet was pretty
sketchy....it says simply...."raise tail to level flight attitude" period.
There was a drawing on the page and I scaled it to come up with a dimension.
It turned out to be the height of my five gallon bucket with the bathroom
scale on it. It seems to me that if this dimension was extremely critical,
Kolb would have provided more information on it. The fact that my tail
weight came out to within a few pounds of the example in my drawing made me
comfortable that I was in the ballpark and the airplane flies well so there
you have my 2 cents.
I can't imagine how you got your Mk2 to come out at 327 pounds. Mine is 380.
I do have a BRS and brakes, 2 fuel tanks, full instrumentation, and heavy
duty landing gear,
but that doesn't seem to account for all the difference (53 pounds). Did you
paint it? :)
Let me know if you need me for anything. I just started flying mine last
summer so a lot of it is fresh in my mind. Crow hops.....lots and lots of
crow hops and a nice long grass field is good. I could do 2 or 3 crow hops
on the field I'm at (3500 feet) and then turn around and do 2 or 3 more in
the other direction (no wind or traffic of course) I was doing this way
early in the morning. Once I had the crow hop mastered I felt I was ready.
whether or not you are will depend on your experience. I test flew my own
airplane but then I didn't want the responsibility of somebody else crashing
in my plane.
I didn't have a lot of ultralight experience prior to this but I did have
quite a bit of time in a 1-26 Sweitzer which has a similar wing loading as
the Mk2 flown solo. I had no ttrouble at all making the transition. You're
in for a treat!!! Just take your time and be careful.
Steve Kroll........Mk2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
>I just bought new high DB rated headsets so I have for sale two
>Hush-A-Com headsets with intercom. The Hush-A-Coms were new a little
>over a year ago and I have added the Oregon Aero softtops and
>Softseals. These are the same kind as Kolb had in Fat Albert.
Funny , when I flew in Fat Albert there weren't no headsets at all!!! I was
actually glad , sorry to say , to get back on the ground. I didn't account
that to the plane just the noise...Headsets are REQUIRED equipment!!!
On that note how many of you guys fly with helmets and how many fly with
headsets alone??? I know a helmet might be cumbersome but if it keeps all
that gook in your skull in a crash it would be well worth it..(provided you
have some "gook" in your head to begin with!!!) What kind of helmets do you
guys use??? I have seen a few brands but nothing impressive. The Linx
headsets that Peter Volum mentioned a few weeks ago have a helmet but they
were proud of them. I found that Flightcom has a motorcycle helmet
conversion kit but who knows how good that works...anybody know??? I sure
wish I could find a couple of military surplus helmets (need 2) anybody
help me on that one?
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
building table and organizing tools so I can start butchering some tubing...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jhann G. Jhannsson" <johann.g(at)centrum.is> |
Hi Jeremy.
I ordered a military helmet from check6aviation.com and I like it.
It has an inbuilt sun visor and the com system. But you will have to replace the
military
speakers ( 30 ohm) to civilian (300 ohm) and get an amplified microphone. These
item you can buy at flightsuits.com The helmet type is a HGU34P Navy helmet.
The only problem is that I am 6'1" and my helmet sometimes bumps against the bow
tube for the full enclosure on my Firestar II. My seat has a thick and soft
upholstered seat cushion, so I sit a little higher than in a normal setup.
The price for the helmet was $ 225.00 and the microphone and speakers were $
129.00
Total $354.00 It may not be the cheapest helmet, but it is very nice to have
the radio and the sun visor built in.
hope this helps,
Johann G.
Iceland
Jeremy Casey wrote:
>
> >I just bought new high DB rated headsets so I have for sale two
> >Hush-A-Com headsets with intercom. The Hush-A-Coms were new a little
> >over a year ago and I have added the Oregon Aero softtops and
> >Softseals. These are the same kind as Kolb had in Fat Albert.
>
> Funny , when I flew in Fat Albert there weren't no headsets at all!!! I was
> actually glad , sorry to say , to get back on the ground. I didn't account
> that to the plane just the noise...Headsets are REQUIRED equipment!!!
>
> On that note how many of you guys fly with helmets and how many fly with
> headsets alone??? I know a helmet might be cumbersome but if it keeps all
> that gook in your skull in a crash it would be well worth it..(provided you
> have some "gook" in your head to begin with!!!) What kind of helmets do you
> guys use??? I have seen a few brands but nothing impressive. The Linx
> headsets that Peter Volum mentioned a few weeks ago have a helmet but they
> were proud of them. I found that Flightcom has a motorcycle helmet
> conversion kit but who knows how good that works...anybody know??? I sure
> wish I could find a couple of military surplus helmets (need 2) anybody
> help me on that one?
>
> Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
> building table and organizing tools so I can start butchering some tubing...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Visiting Tulsa OK |
Hi
I'll be working in Tulsa, OK for 2 weeks starting June 7. Any FireStars in
the area?
Will Uribe
WillU(at)aol.com
Building a FireStar II
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Hello, Mike:
I am located about 8 or 10 miles from you in southern Brandon. I am being
built by a FireFly (fourteen months, now...) , so I doubt I can add anything
coherent or significant to the fabrication of a Mark III. You are welcome,
however, to come gaze in astonishment at the tortured heap of synthetic
cloth and misshapen metal I laughingly refer to, when in my cups, as my
"airplane..." I will gag you with the conventional lies about the sheer,
unconstrained joy of creating this living, vibrating expression of my
indomitable will to soar freely about the heavens, from mere scraps of rag
and tube... I will proffer for your inspection my scarred and torn knubs of
fingers, ravaged by bandsaw and exotic chemicals the EPA has only whispered
of....(but recommended to we Kolbers without hesitation in the MANUAL....)
But on the up side, I will also press a can of slightly warm Red Dog into
your hand, offer you the use of a random cat or two to satisfy your passing
whim or assuage your boredom, and introduce you to my formidable Bride of 34
years, an experience which I am able to assure you will transcend your
routine fight or flight instincts and replace them with something infinitely
more primordial.... You will also be invited to sit in "the seat", don my
ancient SPH-4 helmet, and make 2-stroke noises until your lips lose their
ability to cover your teeth.... no charge.....
Seriously, come on down.... phone is 662-2210... Welcome to the club....
Bill Tuton
The Aluminum Butcher of Brandon
FF-076
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Gallar <To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com <kolb-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Sunday, May 30, 1999 1:01 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Newby
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> My name is Mike Gallar, I'm a first time Kolb owner and builder, just
>received my kit this week and I have a few
>question for you experienced kolb builders. I want to have my fuse power
>coated, but want to make sure that
>I do what I need to do to minimize any excessive abuse after I get it
>coated, any suggestions on were to start.
> I went with the dual control sticks, But there is no reference on the
>plans or the manual on the setup of the
>linkages, I'm certain that I need to weld the stick mount to frame before
>coating.
>
> As an after thought I live in Seffner, Fl just about 10 Miles east of
>Tampa, makes it nice for Sun-N-Fun.
>Had a chance to meet a few guys at the fly in, John Hauck and Peter Volum,
>meet John the day I purchased my
> Kolb (fire sale) and Peter the day I went for my first ride in the plane
he
>purchased from Kolb. I live on a
>78 acre farm where we raise hay and also have a family bussiness Ganes
>Industrial Tool & Supply in
>Tampa. I look forward to alot of camaraderie with you guys.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Mike Gallar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
<< One problem: one of the club members has recently gotten a powered
parachute,
and I guess maybe he also got an instructors license, because he spent the
best
part of the day taking people for rides ( which is good), and the ride was
typically
a takeoff followed by an immediate turn and low pass back across the
flightline
and the crowd, and then a number of turns and low passes across the runway.
Several fixed wings had to go around because of his actions, and on a couple
of his low passes, he almost clipped the rudders of the parked aircraft.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to handle this sort of thing? >>
This guy is an INSTRUCTOR? I think you should first approach him in a
friendly manner and ask him to follow the rules, because what he is doing
will probably result in an accident one day and then every one will suffer
the consequences. If that doesn't work, how about getting the owner, or the
operator of the airport facility, to have a talk with him, requesting that he
either follow the rules or be barred from using the field. A more drastic
step would be reporting him to the FAA, but that kind of action could sorta
be like opening Pandoras Box. Hopefully someone will be able to convince him
to fly like a pro, instead of a numbskull.
Bill Varnes
Audubon, NJ
Original FireStar 377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heart stoppage |
Having almost committed the major stupidity of starting
to taxi out one afternoon with the "Remove Before Flight"
pitot cover in place, I now use the following:
Get an old piece of fuel line, and melt one end shut.
Free, and makes a great pitot tube sealer-upper-cover.
Then get a ribbon of some sort, I use day glow pink
surveyors tape, attach it to the cover you just made,
and run it to the cockpit, tie a loop in it, and toss it over
the stick. Jam the little cover over the pitot tube, and
you will not take off with a dead airspeed indicator.
Since my static air is beside my pitot, I have two covers on one ribbon.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>In a message dated 5/31/99 12:22:11 PM Central Daylight Time,
>joncroke(at)itol.com writes:
>
> The pitot was open, but about 10 inches up the tube was a clog of dirt, I
> squeezed it to break it up and not only did the dirt come out, but also a
> small clog of worms (larvae?) right behind it! Those buggers coulda cost
>me a hospital claim!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Just headsets. It's a Mark III, not a dirt bike.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>On that note how many of you guys fly with helmets and how many fly with
>headsets alone???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Swihart" <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
Johann G. wrote from Iceland:
I ordered a military helmet from check6aviation.com and I like it.
It has an inbuilt sun visor and the com system. But you will have to replace
the
military
speakers ( 30 ohm) to civilian (300 ohm)
http://www.watkinsaviation.com/
and save yourself a some $$...
-Mark-
TwinStar & Chinook
ASC/EAA/USUA
Bradley, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Group: Didn't mention on my long post the other day, ( it was long
enough ) that on approach to Borrego Springs, we got talking to a guy in a
U/L Hurricane that was at 4500' over the runway. Contact started at 7 or 8
miles out, and was very spotty. By 4 -5 mi. out we could hold a reasonable
conversation, and made me think of recent talk on the List about antennas,
etc. Sorry, I don't know what radio / antenna he had, but it was Weak ! ! !
So, today I called Narco in PA., about a problem I induced for myself on my
own radios. Talked to Jim McNabb, a very pleasant and knowledgeable guy,
and asked him also about his recommendations about antennas, ground planes,
etc. He says: With a 10 W. output radio like my Narco, the standard
Cessna style angled whip, mounted under the belly, in the center of a 2' x
2' aluminum sheet ground plane, and a short - 2' - coax, will give about as
good results as you're gonna get with any amount of fooling around. Only
thing I neglected to ask, is if it HAS to be 2' of coax, or would 3' or 4'
hurt. I don't think these radios are as sensitive to coax length as a CB.
Or are they ?? Any one ?? See, if I put it under the nose, along with my
vulnerable Koostum Pitot / Static tubes, with a breakaway hinge or something
for nose dives, why, it'll do everything but talk to the Shuttle. Maybe
that too. Thanks for the plug, Doc. Does wonders for my hurtin' ego.
Go-Gittum Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrio Taucer <adrio(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Antennas |
If the antenna impedance is matched to that of the radio, then the length of
co-ax does not matter (this impedance is a function of frequency for an given
antenna). BTW this is also the case with CB. For the matched case the only
thing the length of co-ax does is increase loss with increases length, but with
the lengths and cable type involved in a Kolb it is insignificant.
For those interested, the reason the length is sometimes an issue is, when the
antenna impedance is not the same as the radio then one can build a crude
impedance transformer by using a length of cable that is a specific fraction of
a wavelength. Not a recommended practice but it works. The most efficient way
(in terms of signal out into space) is to get the antenna matched to the radio
(and the co-ax for that matter, in that a 50 ohm radio should have a 50 ohm
co-ax). This impedance stuff is more "complex" than appears in that it has a
real and imaginary component which combine to give the impedance. When you have
a match your VSWR is good (for those with a VSWR meter as was mentioned in an
earlier post).
For these simple Marconi antennae the length that matches is 1/4 wave length at
the frequency of interest and have a ground plane.
Adrio Taucer
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> Hi Group: Didn't mention on my long post the other day, ( it was long
> enough ) that on approach to Borrego Springs, we got talking to a guy in a
> U/L Hurricane that was at 4500' over the runway. Contact started at 7 or 8
> miles out, and was very spotty. By 4 -5 mi. out we could hold a reasonable
> conversation, and made me think of recent talk on the List about antennas,
> etc. Sorry, I don't know what radio / antenna he had, but it was Weak ! ! !
> So, today I called Narco in PA., about a problem I induced for myself on my
> own radios. Talked to Jim McNabb, a very pleasant and knowledgeable guy,
> and asked him also about his recommendations about antennas, ground planes,
> etc. He says: With a 10 W. output radio like my Narco, the standard
> Cessna style angled whip, mounted under the belly, in the center of a 2' x
> 2' aluminum sheet ground plane, and a short - 2' - coax, will give about as
> good results as you're gonna get with any amount of fooling around. Only
> thing I neglected to ask, is if it HAS to be 2' of coax, or would 3' or 4'
> hurt. I don't think these radios are as sensitive to coax length as a CB.
> Or are they ?? Any one ?? See, if I put it under the nose, along with my
> vulnerable Koostum Pitot / Static tubes, with a breakaway hinge or something
> for nose dives, why, it'll do everything but talk to the Shuttle. Maybe
> that too. Thanks for the plug, Doc. Does wonders for my hurtin' ego.
> Go-Gittum Lar.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
The president of our flying club called last night and wants to start
lessons. As before, I had to respectfully decline, since he weighs 300 lbs,
and I weigh 195, which puts me waaaaay over gross in my Challenger II that I
instruct in. He then said he had the use of a Mark III for a year, since
his buddy just got sent to Bosnia for an extended vacation...
The plane is a registered trainer, but the guy who currently owns it is
not a BFI, as I understand. I do not know the empty weight of it yet, but
I'd like to know what's an acceptable gross weight. If we're over gross in
it, too, the prez is going to have to go on a serious diet. :>)
J.D. Stewart
NCF Communications, Inc.
http://www.ncfcomm.com
UltraFun Airsports
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
Challenger Owners e-mail list administrator
http://challenger.maverick.net
Northeast Nebraska Flying Club
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc
ICQ # 22494032
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Gross weight of a Mk III is 1000 lbs. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: J.D. Stewart <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 7:29 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III
>
> The president of our flying club called last night and wants to start
> lessons. As before, I had to respectfully decline, since he weighs 300
lbs,
> and I weigh 195, which puts me waaaaay over gross in my Challenger II that
I
> instruct in. He then said he had the use of a Mark III for a year, since
> his buddy just got sent to Bosnia for an extended vacation...
> The plane is a registered trainer, but the guy who currently owns it
is
> not a BFI, as I understand. I do not know the empty weight of it yet, but
> I'd like to know what's an acceptable gross weight. If we're over gross
in
> it, too, the prez is going to have to go on a serious diet. :>)
>
> J.D. Stewart
> NCF Communications, Inc.
> http://www.ncfcomm.com
> UltraFun Airsports
> http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
> Challenger Owners e-mail list administrator
> http://challenger.maverick.net
> Northeast Nebraska Flying Club
> http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc
> ICQ # 22494032
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)empireone.net> |
I use a Comtronics Ultra-Pro helmet. I like it. It is pretty quiet and I
have been told I am transmitting very clearly. I can also hear transmissions
fine. The Comtronics people are very nice and I wouldn't hesitate to do
business with them again. I also have a face shield that snaps on to the
helmet for colder weather flying and that keeps my face from freezing.
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 377
Schenectady, NY http://members.aol.com/olefiresta
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: headsets
|
|
| >I just bought new high DB rated headsets so I have for sale two
| >Hush-A-Com headsets with intercom. The Hush-A-Coms were new a little
| >over a year ago and I have added the Oregon Aero softtops and
| >Softseals. These are the same kind as Kolb had in Fat Albert.
|
| Funny , when I flew in Fat Albert there weren't no headsets at all!!! I
was
| actually glad , sorry to say , to get back on the ground. I didn't
account
| that to the plane just the noise...Headsets are REQUIRED equipment!!!
|
| On that note how many of you guys fly with helmets and how many fly with
| headsets alone??? I know a helmet might be cumbersome but if it keeps all
| that gook in your skull in a crash it would be well worth it..(provided
you
| have some "gook" in your head to begin with!!!) What kind of helmets do
you
| guys use??? I have seen a few brands but nothing impressive. The Linx
| headsets that Peter Volum mentioned a few weeks ago have a helmet but they
| were proud of them. I found that Flightcom has a motorcycle helmet
| conversion kit but who knows how good that works...anybody know??? I sure
| wish I could find a couple of military surplus helmets (need 2) anybody
| help me on that one?
|
| Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
|
| building table and organizing tools so I can start butchering some
tubing...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Antennas |
Big Lar and Kolb Gang:
I probably have shared with the List my setup that has been
working for a long time, since Firestar, 1987.
I have a King KX99 (not in manufacture any more)(before that
an STS) hand held. I use the same antenna for VHF as for
ELT, a Pointer SS whip with BNC connector and mount. On
Firestar and MK III have had excellent success with
communications. Used a foot or so diameter alum disc in the
bottom of nose pod. I reckon I have communicated in about
as many different places as anybody else on the List with no
problems. Bought the KX99 in 1989. Same old radio in the
MK III now. It has worked, it is still working. The
Pointer ELT is 24 inch light weight antenna and cost about
$25 or 30 dollars ready to install.
I made my own 24 inch SS antennas for the Firestar. Got the
same excellent results. We even made the insulators for the
mount.
The ELT antenna is designed to operate best at 121.5, but
that's where we do most of our communicating in that area,
122.8, ect.
Ain't no need to reinvent something unless you just want the
extra bother or don't have anything better to do. But with
a new aircraft, you will probably have plenty to do just
working out the bugs, not counting flying that sucker. ;-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Antennas |
Hi Y'all,
On antenna and radio stuff, I had reported several months back that my
setup had unacceptable engine electrical noise. I have a Delcomm 960
+ Pilot Model 51 headset and David Clark Mic. My first tries
with this was using an antenna on the belly, connected to the standard
AL floor pan as a ground plane. Problem was, the correct length antenna
(22") hit stuff on the ground when I picked up the tail, so I went after
it with dike cutters, and made it something closer to 1/8 wavelength, or
about 14" I think. Someone knowledgble told me that was approaching the
theoretical worst length possible. So anyway, I had made the antenna long
again, although bent and a little shy of 22". On my last flight before
flip-over day (sob), brother Jim was up at the same time in a Grumman
Cheetah and I was taking pictures of him. We were having a grand time,
and a lot of it was because we were both on an open freq (122.85, if
i recall, not sure so don't shoot me). He said I Xmitted clear as any
high powered tower or airliner. This was with no noise shielding, other
than shielded engine kill switch, which I had done at initial airplane
build. So, although the Delcomms are sorta old (vacuum tubes inside??
...kidding!), they work very well. I recently read an old SportAviation
article about somebody setting altitude records in a UL-like weight class
(CloudDancer getting to wave clouds over Rockies). I was surprised to
see he had mounted his antenna on an engine cooling shroud for ground
plane. I guess it can be done.
Larry, for "break-away" pitot, you may know the standard trick is to
have cut the tube 1" outside of the airplane, and join the remaining
length of pitot with a short piece of fuel hose. This provides the
flex ...you provide the nose-over.
-Ben
>
>Hi Group: Didn't mention on my long post the other day, ( it was long
>enough ) that on approach to Borrego Springs, we got talking to a guy in a
>U/L Hurricane that was at 4500' over the runway. Contact started at 7 or 8
>miles out, and was very spotty. By 4 -5 mi. out we could hold a reasonable
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/2/99 10:31:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com writes:
<< I'd like to know what's an acceptable gross weight. >>
JD, when I was looking for instruction I talked with a BFI who had a Mk III
& he could not take me. His craft is not particularly heavy with a 582, he
weighs 180 & I was 265.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
"J.D. Stewart" wrote:
>
> it, too, the prez is going to have to go on a serious
diet. :>)
>
JD and Kolb Gang:
Put your Prez on a serious diet.
I wouldn't fly him in a MK III.
I flew a gentleman at Lakeland this year who weighed,
according to him, 285 lbs. Flying out of Lakeland South
with a long airstrip a few feet above sea level. I was not
comfortable in Fat Albert with him and the weight of the
912. I flew a gentleman some years ago off the airstrip at
Paradise City that weighed 285 when Fat Albert was powered
with 582. Felt much better than the 912 powered flight.
The aircraft has the capability to carry the weight, but
with standard main gear location and all that weight up
front, I personnally don't feel comfortable flying.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
I used a motorcycle helmet with face shield before installing the
windshield in my MKIII with the half side doors. Since then I use a headset
when flying with a passenger or just earplugs when flying solo. I also use
a 4-point restraint seatbelt system as the original lap and shoulderbelt
felt inadequate. After all that talk about antennas and radio range I am
beginning to get an appetite for a radio installation also.
But first things first. I am still flight testing the new 912 installation
and are experiencing high cooling water temperatures and occasional
boilovers caused by me placing the standard Rotax radiator in front of the
engine too close to the gapseal (3") where there is not enough airflow
through it. The airflow is also hindered by the VLS mounted low in the
front part of the gapseal but sticking up about 2" above the crown.The
addition of an airscoop 4" higher than the radiator got enough air to drop
the water temp to around 200 degr. (Boilover occurred at 250 degr temp on
the EIS during static ground tests and also once during flight testing with
80/20 mixture ). I plan to raise the radiator up 5" or as high as possible
staying below the filler neck of the expansion bottle on top. Oil temps
(without cooler installed to save weight) run comfortable at 240-250 degr.
Current installed 912 engine weight is 150 lbs incl oil and coolant and
dual exhaust and the MKIII empty weight is just under 500 lbs w VLS and no
floats.
The 72" IVO high pitch 3-blade with 2.5"extension hub and no pitch input
(17 degr) will only turn 4600 rpm at WOT and 2 turns of the quick adjust
stud brought this up to 5500 rpm. It will probably take one more turn to
get it to 5800 rpm, the max for this engine.
It is interesting to note that at the 17 degr pitch setting the engine has
enough torque to take off with a MKIII floatplane from water @ 4600 rpm and
cruise around at 50 mph with 3600 rpm on the tach.
Frank Reynen MKIII@497hrs (serial #022) back in the air after a 7 month
repair and upgrade to 912 project.
Just headsets. It's a Mark III, not a dirt bike.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>On that note how many of you guys fly with helmets and how many fly with
>headsets alone???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Hey newby
One of the unwritten rules of this list is we do not give Beauford any
information unless he writes one of his famous Beauford stories to go along
with his request ;)
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Hey Frank, is there any way you can get the radiator down below the wing at
the back of the cage? With your cutaway doors, you ought to get pretty
good airflow. When I took the radiator from atop the wing, ahead of the
engine and put it below the trailing edge at the back of the cage, temps
went way down. But not with the full doors, they block off too much air.
Bear in mind that anything you put on top of the wing that sticks up in the
air is more or less a spoiler, and can't help lift any.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>But first things first. I am still flight testing the new 912 installation
>and are experiencing high cooling water temperatures and occasional
>boilovers caused by me placing the standard Rotax radiator in front of the
>engine too close to the gapseal (3") where there is not enough airflow
>through it. The airflow is also hindered by the VLS mounted low in the
>front part of the gapseal but sticking up about 2" above the crown.The
>addition of an airscoop 4" higher than the radiator got enough air to drop
>the water temp to around 200 degr. (Boilover occurred at 250 degr temp on
>the EIS during static ground tests and also once during flight testing with
>80/20 mixture ). I plan to raise the radiator up 5" or as high as possible
>staying below the filler neck of the expansion bottle on top.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
A good friend of mine intentionally made the passenger seat belt a little on
the short side. When a gravitationally challenged friend wants to take a ride
the seatbelt won't quite reach around him (or her). He had an opportunity to
use it on one occasion just after he had finished telling all the guys how
strong and powerful his plane was, bad mistake.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Flight Test: Rear pod enclosure on MKiii. |
I was able to do initial tests on the rear enclosure assembly I spent half the
winter building for the MKiii, this weekend. Overall, it looks like a very
valuable addition to the aircraft!
PARTS DETAILS:
The enclosure consists of: Panels made of Kevlar/Fiberglass/Last-a-foam/Kevlar
& Vinyl Ester Resin, to enclose the approx 13" x 36 " area on the sides of the
cage beside the fuel tanks; A rear closure cone to streamline the extreme rear
of the cage 6-inch-flat area, bringing it to a vertical line with a 2" radius,
made of 0.032" aluminum; Side windows of 0.060" lexan to complete the
triangular areas just aft of the doors and in front of the Kevlar side panel
pcs, using Kolb-supplied curved tubes (from the Kolb flexible rear-window option
kit). The Kevlar panels have molded-in clamp-shapes on the leading and trailing
edges, and then #6 and #8 stainless bolts with nylocs also pass thru them to
fasten the rear edge of the side lexan windows and the rear cone closure (one
set of bolts hold both the windows and the panels at the front, and one set of
bolts holds the panels at the back edge and the rear cone closure assembly).
Total weight including all above pcs and all mounting hardware is under 8 lbs.
COMFORT:
NO MORE WIND! Not even a whisper, when the door window vents are closed. This
makes for less fatigue, and better microphone operation for intercomm and radio
transmission. This alone justifies the effort, to me. It is also going to be
warmer.
ACOUSTICS:
A complicated issue. Overall, the noise level is about the same. However, the
octave bands important to speech recognition are definitely lower with the
enclosure on, as the radio reception and intercomm now both are more
intelligible. This was second most important on my wish list. The low frequency
from prop and exhaust are as bad, or worse (the new "cavity" may be resonating)
than before the enclosure. More experimentation will be done with Soundcoat
foam soon, I expect some small further improvement is still possible. My hopes
to use a borrowed spectrum analyzer faded as the thing uses LEDs and they could
not be seen in daylight, so no hard data at this time.
FLIGHT PERFORMANCE:
Stall has lowered maybe 2 mph. Top speed has increased 4-5 mph. The engine rpm
now runs about 150 RPM higher than before, at WOT and so the prop will now have
to repitched slightly, which may increase speed more (582, "C" box @2.62:1, 66"
Powerfin "A" style 3-blade). I will not bother reporting actual numbers until
I
verify them with GPS. Another interesting thing that happened is that the plane
seems smoother at high speed. A small part of the drag reduction credit goes to
the streamline farings I built and applied to the jury struts, aileron push-pull
tubes, and cage diagonals at the back of the cage, and possibly a tiny amount to
the hubcaps I added. It all works together of course. Every little bit hurts.
FUTURE:
Still left for next year is to fair the gear legs and maybe Maule-type wheel
fairings ( right Tim?), and the new improved gap seal with engine fairing and 7
gallon reserve fuel tank composite project. After that, I'm out of ideas.
Judging by results of this round of improvements, top speed level flight will
exceed 90 mph (this MKiii already has aileron counterbalances) with all these
future options. That is with it pitched for reliable daily operations dual out
of a 600 foot field. Last year, 81 was all it'd do. No I'm not out to set any
speed records, but I should realize a significant cruise range increase.
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
I do not know the empty weight of it yet, but
>I'd like to know what's an acceptable gross weight. If we're over gross in
>it, too, the prez is going to have to go on a serious diet. :>)
I self impose a 220 lb limit on passengers in my twinstar. More than that
I have a hell of a time keeping the nose out of the ground as I start my
takeoff run. I took a 300 lb'er up once. Needed to take a practice run down
my grass strip to learn how to balance it with the throttle. Never again.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
Hey Frank, is there any way you can get the radiator down below the wing at
the back of the cage? With your cutaway doors, you ought to get pretty
good airflow. When I took the radiator from atop the wing, ahead of the
engine and put it below the trailing edge at the back of the cage, temps
went way down. But not with the full doors, they block off too much air.
Bear in mind that anything you put on top of the wing that sticks up in the
air is more or less a spoiler, and can't help lift any.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
Hi Rich,
Good suggestion as most everyone has it mounted there but unfortunately
would mean for me to move the oilcannister to a different location where it
would be much harder to keep an eye on the oil level.The fact that I have
floats mounted at all times and parked above the water on a drydock makes
it difficult to get at anything but the rear of the engine and that is why
I installed the oilcan there where it is also close to the oilpump and the
lines are short to save additional weight and located the radiator close to
the water in/outlets in front.In addition I had to contend with a garage
door 7' high that I need to clear to park the plane still on floats and on
wheels in the wintertime which I now clear by 1/4".The new radiator
location is even with the top of the engine and more foreward so I dont
know if it increases the frontal surface but if I continue to have problems
I will bite the bullet and bolt it to the rear.
Thanks anyway for the response
Frank
>But first things first. I am still flight testing the new 912 installation
>and are experiencing high cooling water temperatures and occasional
>boilovers caused by me placing the standard Rotax radiator in front of the
>engine too close to the gapseal (3") where there is not enough airflow
>through it. The airflow is also hindered by the VLS mounted low in the
>front part of the gapseal but sticking up about 2" above the crown.The
>addition of an airscoop 4" higher than the radiator got enough air to drop
>the water temp to around 200 degr. (Boilover occurred at 250 degr temp on
>the EIS during static ground tests and also once during flight testing
with
>80/20 mixture ). I plan to raise the radiator up 5" or as high as possible
>staying below the filler neck of the expansion bottle on top.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spruce(at)deltanet.com (Aircraft Spruce & Specialty) |
| Subject: | Aircraft Spruce Reply |
Dear Jerry,
I have reviewed all of your messages on the Kolb list expressing your
dissatisfaction with Aircraft Spruce, and I am very sorry that you have
such a poor opinion of our company. The matter of the difficulty in
getting the quantity price quted when you called was entirely the fault of
the sales rep who took the call, and I apologize for this. A quotation
does not require customer identification and quantity discounts are easily
quoted. This person was not performing acceptably and is no longer with
our company.
You mentioned a compass which you had purchased and which was leaking. Did
you contact us to obtain an RMA number to return it? It would certainly be
under warranty and we would be happy to process the warranty exchange or
credit on it. As for any other problems you indicate you have experienced,
please let me know what they were so I can address them. We want every one
of our customers to be satisfied with our service, and if you give us a
chance to make an error right, we will do so.
I am glad that you were so pleased with the service provided by Alexander
Aeroplane Co., and am surprised that you feel our service as Aircraft
Spruce East is not the same. East now carries a product line much larger
than Alexander, and strives to provide the same fast, friendly service. In
fact, almost all of the staff at East is the same as the Alexander staff in
years past. They (and West) aren't perfect, but I do receive many very
favorable comments on East's performance from our customers. As for the
descovery of Great Atlantic Aeroplane Company, be advised that this company
has created a catalog that is a DIRECT copy of the old Alexander Aeroplane
Co. catalog. Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. purchased Alexander Aeroplane
Co., including it's catalog, in 1996 and is currently pursuing action
against this new company for copying our catalog. We welcome honest, fair
competition, but this is unethical and illegal and will be stopped.
One las observation. Our Jerry Aguilar checked our computer files for your
name prior to responding to one of your postings today, and he, like the
sales rep you spoke with, could not locate any sales history under your
name. You indicate that you have had LOTS of problems with orders, so we
are puzzled as to why we cannot locate your name as a customer. If you
have not ordered for quite a while the file name may have been purged. If
this is the case, why not give us a try to measure our current level of
service?
Regards,
Jim Irwin
President, Aircraft Spruce
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
AIRCRAFT SPRUCE & SPECIALTY CO.
225 Airport Circle
Corona, CA 90270 U.S.A.
Tele: 909-372-9555
Fax: 909-372-0555
Order Desk: 800-824-1930
Customer Service: 800-861-3192
Email: info@aircraft-spruce.com
WWW: http://www.aircraft-spruce.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spruce(at)deltanet.com (Aircraft Spruce & Specialty) |
| Subject: | Aircraft Spruce Reply |
Dear Ray,
I noticed your reply to Jerry Bidle on the Kolb list and am glad to see
that you are pleased with the service provided by Aircraft Spruce East in
Georgia. Our staff there (and in California) is indeed friendly and
helpful and will do everything possible to get parts to you quickly and
correctly every time. I hope your comment on our West operation does not
indicate you have had problems with orders shipped from here; if so, please
give me some details so I can look into it immediately. We appreciate your
business and look forward to continuing to serve you.
Regards,
Jim Irwin
President, Aircraft Spruce
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
AIRCRAFT SPRUCE & SPECIALTY CO.
225 Airport Circle
Corona, CA 90270 U.S.A.
Tele: 909-372-9555
Fax: 909-372-0555
Order Desk: 800-824-1930
Customer Service: 800-861-3192
Email: info@aircraft-spruce.com
WWW: http://www.aircraft-spruce.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spruce(at)deltanet.com (Aircraft Spruce & Specialty) |
| Subject: | Aircraft Spruce Reply |
Dear Larry,
I read your reply to Jerry Bidle's posting on the Kolb list, and am glad to
hear that Aircraft Spruce West has provided you with great service on your
orders. We do our best to handle every caller in a friendly, efficient
manner and get orders out to our customers quickly and correctly. We ship
over 1000 orders every day for our California and Georgia locations, and
when something does go wrong, we do our best to resolve it quickly and
hassle free for our customers. On Jerry's call, he was connected to one of
our newer West sales reps who handled the call very poorly. Providing a
quotation does not require any customer identification, and the quantity
discounts are very easy to access and quote. We regret that this happened,
and I will let Jerry know. The person who took the call was not providing
acceptable service to Aircraft Spruce customers and is no longer with our
company. Once again, thanks for the words of support; we appreciate it and
all the business you have sent our way!
Regards,
Jim Irwin
President, Aircraft Spruce
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
AIRCRAFT SPRUCE & SPECIALTY CO.
225 Airport Circle
Corona, CA 90270 U.S.A.
Tele: 909-372-9555
Fax: 909-372-0555
Order Desk: 800-824-1930
Customer Service: 800-861-3192
Email: info@aircraft-spruce.com
WWW: http://www.aircraft-spruce.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Souder <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
>
> The president of our flying club called last night and wants to start
>lessons. As before, I had to respectfully decline, since he weighs 300 lbs,
>and I weigh 195, which puts me waaaaay over gross in my Challenger II that I
>instruct in. He then said he had the use of a Mark III for a year, since
>his buddy just got sent to Bosnia for an extended vacation...
> The plane is a registered trainer, but the guy who currently owns it is
>not a BFI, as I understand. I do not know the empty weight of it yet, but
>I'd like to know what's an acceptable gross weight. If we're over gross in
>it, too, the prez is going to have to go on a serious diet. :>)
>
Dan, the factory pilot at Kolb, has taken up passengers weighing in the 275
- 300 lb range. This was not uncommon, he would do it at the Kolb strip
without a second thought; but at Oshkosh, when taking off uphill with a
cross wind, he would sometimes decline someone in this weight range. Dan
weighed about 180 lb.
I took up a passenger in a Mark-II one time, who weight 330 lb. This was
with a Rotax 503. It did not do as badly as I was expecting. Jon Sayward
in MA has given instruction to 300 lb students with his Rotax 503 powered
Mark-III.
Just keep the stick back, when adding power to start moving or for the
take-off roll. Once you have some speed, your stabilizers and elevators
keep things from getting out of hand, but when you slow up, you are at
greater risk.
I had a KR-2 one time and it had the same problem, only in reverse. It was
light on the tail when there was no passenger. I learned the lesson about
keeping the stick back the hard and expensive way. One moments inattention
and up on the nose she went, with a shower of dirt as the wood prop became
an instand nub. Do that one time and you don't forget.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Is anyone flying with Aft C.G. near the limit, and if so how does it handle.
I,m on the edge, but haven't flown it yet. Firestar I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | afnorway(at)netwurx.net |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables and more |
Chris, Big Lar,
I don't know if this will help you any, but it pertains to the rudder and
elevator cables. I just purchased a Fire-star II used and I observed the rudder
and elevator cables scraping just as they entered the fuselage tube. I welded
another bracket to my frame just before the opening of the main tube that was
the same size as the pulley bracket found under the seat. Now the cables go over
these second set of pulley's and enter the fuselage tube with out any scraping
on the tube or rivets. The turn buckles in the elevator were changed to 4"
instead of standard 2 1/4". If this is done before the nicos are installed,
this would not be necessary. I found the rudder pedals unaffected.
Aanon-of WI Firestar II W/503
Chris Sudlow wrote:
>
> Big Lar,
>
> Once the tension was on the cable, I positioned the nicos, and tightened
> them up with a kerny that held them while removing the cable for swaging.
>
> chris
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 9:29 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator cables and more
>
> >
> >Sounds like an excellent idea, Chris, easier and more secure than mine, but
> >how did you hold the position on the cable while you pulled it out for
> >swaging ?? Big Lar.
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Chris Sudlow <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
> >To:
> >Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 2:57 PM
> >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator cables and more
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Jason,
> >>
> >> When I rigged the elevator cables I used a wire "Kerny" to clamp an
> >> extension to the end of the cable you are trying to put tension on, and
> >ran
> >> that extension all the way through to the back of the boom tube where a
> >> helper could pull it tight while I positioned the nicos for swaging.
> >>
> >> The cage is assymetrical behind the seats so you can get the gas tanks
> in.
> >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | afnorway(at)netwurx.net |
Possum,
I saw a Fire star II with this same problem this weekend. He put 30 lb of
Led weight in the nose to bring the C.G. back to a range that is acceptable. He
also said that they are all a little aft heavy so It's not uncommon problem.
Aanon- Firestar II
Possum wrote:
>
> Is anyone flying with Aft C.G. near the limit, and if so how does it handle.
> I,m on the edge, but haven't flown it yet. Firestar I
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
Scott
The COMTRONICS guy's are the some of the most help full I have delt
with I use their stuff in my M/3 and like you like it very much anyone
that has a helmet that needs to be matched up from military to civilian
they can do it .
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>
>I use a Comtronics Ultra-Pro helmet. I like it. It is pretty quiet
>and I
>have been told I am transmitting very clearly. I can also hear
>transmissions
>fine. The Comtronics people are very nice and I wouldn't hesitate to
>do
>business with them again. I also have a face shield that snaps on to
>the
>helmet for colder weather flying and that keeps my face from freezing.
>
>Scott Olendorf
>Original Firestar, Rotax 377
>Schenectady, NY http://members.aol.com/olefiresta
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
>To:
>Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 1:55 PM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: headsets
>
>
>
>|
>|
>| >I just bought new high DB rated headsets so I have for sale two
>| >Hush-A-Com headsets with intercom. The Hush-A-Coms were new a
>little
>| >over a year ago and I have added the Oregon Aero softtops and
>| >Softseals. These are the same kind as Kolb had in Fat Albert.
>
>|
>| Funny , when I flew in Fat Albert there weren't no headsets at
>all!!! I
>was
>| actually glad , sorry to say , to get back on the ground. I didn't
>account
>| that to the plane just the noise...Headsets are REQUIRED
>equipment!!!
>|
>| On that note how many of you guys fly with helmets and how many fly
>with
>| headsets alone??? I know a helmet might be cumbersome but if it
>keeps all
>| that gook in your skull in a crash it would be well worth
>it..(provided
>you
>| have some "gook" in your head to begin with!!!) What kind of helmets
>do
>you
>| guys use??? I have seen a few brands but nothing impressive. The
>Linx
>| headsets that Peter Volum mentioned a few weeks ago have a helmet
>but they
>| were proud of them. I found that Flightcom has a motorcycle helmet
>| conversion kit but who knows how good that works...anybody know???
>I sure
>| wish I could find a couple of military surplus helmets (need 2)
>anybody
>| help me on that one?
>|
>| Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>|
>| building table and organizing tools so I can start butchering some
>tubing...
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flight Test: Rear pod enclosure on MKiii. |
Hey Jim Gerkin, how can we get either pictures or drawings of your mods to
the MK III? I like your ideas. Sure would like to incorporate some into my
airship. 'Nother 2 months it may be flying.
Thanks, Bil
----- Original Message -----
From: <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 4:17 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Flight Test: Rear pod enclosure on MKiii.
>
> I was able to do initial tests on the rear enclosure assembly I spent half
the
> winter building for the MKiii, this weekend. Overall, it looks like a
very
> valuable addition to the aircraft!
>
> PARTS DETAILS:
> The enclosure consists of: Panels made of
Kevlar/Fiberglass/Last-a-foam/Kevlar
> & Vinyl Ester Resin, to enclose the approx 13" x 36 " area on the sides of
the
> cage beside the fuel tanks; A rear closure cone to streamline the extreme
rear
> of the cage 6-inch-flat area, bringing it to a vertical line with a 2"
radius,
> made of 0.032" aluminum; Side windows of 0.060" lexan to complete the
> triangular areas just aft of the doors and in front of the Kevlar side
panel
> pcs, using Kolb-supplied curved tubes (from the Kolb flexible rear-window
option
> kit). The Kevlar panels have molded-in clamp-shapes on the leading and
trailing
> edges, and then #6 and #8 stainless bolts with nylocs also pass thru them
to
> fasten the rear edge of the side lexan windows and the rear cone closure
(one
> set of bolts hold both the windows and the panels at the front, and one
set of
> bolts holds the panels at the back edge and the rear cone closure
assembly).
> Total weight including all above pcs and all mounting hardware is under 8
lbs.
>
> COMFORT:
> NO MORE WIND! Not even a whisper, when the door window vents are closed.
This
> makes for less fatigue, and better microphone operation for intercomm and
radio
> transmission. This alone justifies the effort, to me. It is also going
to be
> warmer.
>
> ACOUSTICS:
> A complicated issue. Overall, the noise level is about the same.
However, the
> octave bands important to speech recognition are definitely lower with the
> enclosure on, as the radio reception and intercomm now both are more
> intelligible. This was second most important on my wish list. The low
frequency
> from prop and exhaust are as bad, or worse (the new "cavity" may be
resonating)
> than before the enclosure. More experimentation will be done with
Soundcoat
> foam soon, I expect some small further improvement is still possible. My
hopes
> to use a borrowed spectrum analyzer faded as the thing uses LEDs and they
could
> not be seen in daylight, so no hard data at this time.
>
> FLIGHT PERFORMANCE:
> Stall has lowered maybe 2 mph. Top speed has increased 4-5 mph. The
engine rpm
> now runs about 150 RPM higher than before, at WOT and so the prop will now
have
> to repitched slightly, which may increase speed more (582, "C" box
@2.62:1, 66"
> Powerfin "A" style 3-blade). I will not bother reporting actual numbers
until I
> verify them with GPS. Another interesting thing that happened is that the
plane
> seems smoother at high speed. A small part of the drag reduction credit
goes to
> the streamline farings I built and applied to the jury struts, aileron
push-pull
> tubes, and cage diagonals at the back of the cage, and possibly a tiny
amount to
> the hubcaps I added. It all works together of course. Every little bit
hurts.
>
> FUTURE:
> Still left for next year is to fair the gear legs and maybe Maule-type
wheel
> fairings ( right Tim?), and the new improved gap seal with engine fairing
and 7
> gallon reserve fuel tank composite project. After that, I'm out of ideas.
> Judging by results of this round of improvements, top speed level flight
will
> exceed 90 mph (this MKiii already has aileron counterbalances) with all
these
> future options. That is with it pitched for reliable daily operations
dual out
> of a 600 foot field. Last year, 81 was all it'd do. No I'm not out to
set any
> speed records, but I should realize a significant cruise range increase.
>
> jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrio Taucer <adrio(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Test: Rear pod enclosure on MKiii. |
Jim,
You mentioned the need for a spectrum analyzer. I assume you mean for audio
frequencies. I have seen software the lets you use your sound card and the PC
to turn your PC into an audio spectrum analyzer. I may have the particulars at
home if you are interested (e-mail me back at the end of a business day and I
will look it up for you). As I recall it was very inexpensive and worked fine,
might even be able to get it (or something similar) for free on the internet
now.
So a borrowed lap top and there you go.
Adrio
Bil Ragsdale wrote:
>
> Hey Jim Gerkin, how can we get either pictures or drawings of your mods to
> the MK III? I like your ideas. Sure would like to incorporate some into my
> airship. 'Nother 2 months it may be flying.
>
> Thanks, Bil
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 4:17 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Flight Test: Rear pod enclosure on MKiii.
>
> >
> > I was able to do initial tests on the rear enclosure assembly I spent half
> the
> > winter building for the MKiii, this weekend. Overall, it looks like a
> very
> > valuable addition to the aircraft!
> >
> > PARTS DETAILS:
> > The enclosure consists of: Panels made of
> Kevlar/Fiberglass/Last-a-foam/Kevlar
> > & Vinyl Ester Resin, to enclose the approx 13" x 36 " area on the sides of
> the
> > cage beside the fuel tanks; A rear closure cone to streamline the extreme
> rear
> > of the cage 6-inch-flat area, bringing it to a vertical line with a 2"
> radius,
> > made of 0.032" aluminum; Side windows of 0.060" lexan to complete the
> > triangular areas just aft of the doors and in front of the Kevlar side
> panel
> > pcs, using Kolb-supplied curved tubes (from the Kolb flexible rear-window
> option
> > kit). The Kevlar panels have molded-in clamp-shapes on the leading and
> trailing
> > edges, and then #6 and #8 stainless bolts with nylocs also pass thru them
> to
> > fasten the rear edge of the side lexan windows and the rear cone closure
> (one
> > set of bolts hold both the windows and the panels at the front, and one
> set of
> > bolts holds the panels at the back edge and the rear cone closure
> assembly).
> > Total weight including all above pcs and all mounting hardware is under 8
> lbs.
> >
> > COMFORT:
> > NO MORE WIND! Not even a whisper, when the door window vents are closed.
> This
> > makes for less fatigue, and better microphone operation for intercomm and
> radio
> > transmission. This alone justifies the effort, to me. It is also going
> to be
> > warmer.
> >
> > ACOUSTICS:
> > A complicated issue. Overall, the noise level is about the same.
> However, the
> > octave bands important to speech recognition are definitely lower with the
> > enclosure on, as the radio reception and intercomm now both are more
> > intelligible. This was second most important on my wish list. The low
> frequency
> > from prop and exhaust are as bad, or worse (the new "cavity" may be
> resonating)
> > than before the enclosure. More experimentation will be done with
> Soundcoat
> > foam soon, I expect some small further improvement is still possible. My
> hopes
> > to use a borrowed spectrum analyzer faded as the thing uses LEDs and they
> could
> > not be seen in daylight, so no hard data at this time.
> >
> > FLIGHT PERFORMANCE:
> > Stall has lowered maybe 2 mph. Top speed has increased 4-5 mph. The
> engine rpm
> > now runs about 150 RPM higher than before, at WOT and so the prop will now
> have
> > to repitched slightly, which may increase speed more (582, "C" box
> @2.62:1, 66"
> > Powerfin "A" style 3-blade). I will not bother reporting actual numbers
> until I
> > verify them with GPS. Another interesting thing that happened is that the
> plane
> > seems smoother at high speed. A small part of the drag reduction credit
> goes to
> > the streamline farings I built and applied to the jury struts, aileron
> push-pull
> > tubes, and cage diagonals at the back of the cage, and possibly a tiny
> amount to
> > the hubcaps I added. It all works together of course. Every little bit
> hurts.
> >
> > FUTURE:
> > Still left for next year is to fair the gear legs and maybe Maule-type
> wheel
> > fairings ( right Tim?), and the new improved gap seal with engine fairing
> and 7
> > gallon reserve fuel tank composite project. After that, I'm out of ideas.
> > Judging by results of this round of improvements, top speed level flight
> will
> > exceed 90 mph (this MKiii already has aileron counterbalances) with all
> these
> > future options. That is with it pitched for reliable daily operations
> dual out
> > of a 600 foot field. Last year, 81 was all it'd do. No I'm not out to
> set any
> > speed records, but I should realize a significant cruise range increase.
> >
> > jim
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rigging Mark III |
Group,
A couple questions on rigging the Mark III:
1. When measuring from the tail to the outboard of the trailing edge, the
manual says, " one inch differences may be acceptable" - I'm curious what
actual tolerances planes have been completed with.
2. The hole for the main spar tabs is to be drilled 7/8" up from the bottom
of the wing. At this measurement, the tabs aren't centered vertically with
each other - is that correct?
Thanks for your help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Possum,
My suggestion is: Don't add weight unless you are over 37%. And then just
enough to bring it back to within 37%. My Firestar II is at 36.1 and flys
fine.
John Jung
SE Wisconsin
Possum wrote:
>
> Is anyone flying with Aft C.G. near the limit, and if so how does it handle.
> I,m on the edge, but haven't flown it yet. Firestar I
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rigging Mark III |
If this helps any:
>
>Group,
>
>A couple questions on rigging the Mark III:
>
>1. When measuring from the tail to the outboard of the trailing edge, the
>manual says, " one inch differences may be acceptable" - I'm curious what
>actual tolerances planes have been completed with.
1/8"-1/4" is what mine came out.
>
>2. The hole for the main spar tabs is to be drilled 7/8" up from the bottom
>of the wing. At this measurement, the tabs aren't centered vertically with
>each other - is that correct?
The main thing is that both wings are at identical angles of attack. I went
exactly by the book for the distance up, but if I had to do it again, I
would have gotten the bottoms of the wing aligned more closely with the
welded tubes that are part of the cage center section. I have a slight
angular difference.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rigging Mark III |
Chris,
My partner and I just went through this a couple of months ago and we settled
for approximately 7/8" from the tail to the outboard ends of the wing trailing
edge.
Our main spar tabs aren't exactly centered vertically but the wings have the
same Angle of Attack. We tried to ensure that the wings were as close to the
cage as possible (i.e.the main spar tabs touch the cage). One problem to watch
when doing this is that we ended up with the one drag strut horn to far in to
the drag strut. The wings are square as I stated before but when the wings are
folded one bolt on the starboard wing fold universal joint prevented the wing
from folding completely. Had to replace the original bolt with a clevis bolt as
the head on a clevis bolt is a tad shorter.
PaulV
Chris Sudlow wrote:
>
> Group,
>
> A couple questions on rigging the Mark III:
>
> 1. When measuring from the tail to the outboard of the trailing edge, the
> manual says, " one inch differences may be acceptable" - I'm curious what
> actual tolerances planes have been completed with.
>
> 2. The hole for the main spar tabs is to be drilled 7/8" up from the bottom
> of the wing. At this measurement, the tabs aren't centered vertically with
> each other - is that correct?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/02/99 |
I too have a military chopper helmet and I love it. I rewired it for two
separate plugs. One for mike and other for ears. I had a special mike from
Comtronics ( I think, at my age I have to check records) with a pre-amp built
in and seems to work ok. My problems have all been the radio. I finally
bought an SWR to check ant. and watt output. I only have about one watt out
on my delcom and I think that is wrong but I dont have my papers anywhere
(another frailty of my age). I will get it worked out. I built my firestar
(86 version) four years ago according to light plans and I weight about
160\170. I always thought I was a little light on the nose but I have never
had any problems.
My friend was flying a firestar (same year about but heavier) and had a
heart attack at 1400' . He spiraled down and went through 100' of tree hedge
and was wearing only headset. It cut the top of his ear off. A tree limb
hit him on the top temple area just above his left eye. Messed everything
up. He brain really got scrambled bad. His eye will never function right.
Both feet of course took the hit but they fixed them up pretty good. If he
would have had a helmet on he would be ok. I have a photo of his firestar if
anyone wants to see it. I will download to your email.
The front frame crushed in to about 10" and just barely got his ribs. He was
out cold and loose so his pelvis twisted 90 degrees to the left. All the
parameds did was straighten him out and pull it back. You cannot believe the
great job the frame does to protect you. I would not have anything but
cromemolly. Dennis S. I think you are a genious for making this firestar.
If you think you want to fly with a headset, I will send you the photos!
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/3/99 1:59:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jrjung(at)execpc.com
writes:
<< My suggestion is: Don't add weight unless you are over 37%. And then just
enough to bring it back to within 37%. My Firestar II is at 36.1 and flys
fine. >>
Why don't you guys just eat some good food like butter, bacon, sausage, pies,
cakes,etc. & the problem will eventually go away.
Howard Shackleford
FS I [CG dead in the middle]
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
but if they eat that find food then another problem will rear it ugly head.
It's called nosing over like we have in our FireFly.
JerryB
>
>In a message dated 6/3/99 1:59:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrjung(at)execpc.com
>writes:
>
><< My suggestion is: Don't add weight unless you are over 37%. And then just
> enough to bring it back to within 37%. My Firestar II is at 36.1 and flys
> fine. >>
>Why don't you guys just eat some good food like butter, bacon, sausage,
pies,
>cakes,etc. & the problem will eventually go away.
>
>Howard Shackleford
>FS I [CG dead in the middle]
>SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/3/99 10:02:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jbidle(at)airmail.net writes:
<< but if they eat that find food then another problem will rear it ugly head.
It's called nosing over like we have in our FireFly.
JerryB >>
Some-one taking lessons at our field just bought an almost-new Firefly.
Looks like a baby Firestar. I think it must be made for pilots under 190
lbs. Cute little thing...
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rigging Mark III |
Chris
This will be the two most important holes that you will drill so before
you drill if you are not sure THINK about what you are going to do , I
like you had questions and I an glad I asked I ended up with an old
timer comming over and after he seen the way I had the wings ridged in
2x4 cradles that good then he shook them they let the wing move ,then all
heck broke out I got a good chewing out for not being ready wings are
loose and ect ect what I would do if I were you is set the wings up
like DENNIS said with 2x4's so they are steady now get come monofilament
line not cord too, wide go from tip to tip real tight make sure line
touches both leading edges from tip to tip now is when all the walking
will take place go to tail with tape and from tailing edge of each
wingback to a common spot vertical tail post this will take several trips
back and forth don't give up a little movement goes a long way keep the
cat gut tight then you will be ready to drill make SURE the angle of
attack is the same in both wings A friend of mine in NEW JERSEY some of
the guys on the list know him had more AOA in one wing than the other HIS
TEST PILOT HAD TO FLY WITH FULL LEFT STICK just to make it go straight
. this drilling step is not hard just be sure you got it right
RICK
Mk.3 with 912 to be checked out by the fed's on the 15th.June
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>Group,
>
>A couple questions on rigging the Mark III:
>
>1. When measuring from the tail to the outboard of the trailing edge,
>the
>manual says, " one inch differences may be acceptable" - I'm curious
>what
>actual tolerances planes have been completed with.
>
>2. The hole for the main spar tabs is to be drilled 7/8" up from the
>bottom
>of the wing. At this measurement, the tabs aren't centered vertically
>with
>each other - is that correct?
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator cables and more |
Thanks for the thought, Aanon ?? Aaron ?? My problem wasn't with scraping
or touching, it was reaching into the tail boom ( Mk III ) to snug up the
cables and the kerneys to hold tension.
Big Lar.
--- Original Message ----
-
From: <afnorway(at)netwurx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator cables and more
>
> Chris, Big Lar,
>
> I don't know if this will help you any, but it pertains to the rudder
and
> elevator cables. I just purchased a Fire-star II used and I observed the
rudder
> and elevator cables scraping just as they entered the fuselage tube. I
welded
> another bracket to my frame just before the opening of the main tube that
was
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Test: Rear pod enclosure on MKiii. |
Hi Jim: Sure would like to see some pics of your enclosure when you get
them. TIA. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 2:17 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Flight Test: Rear pod enclosure on MKiii.
>
> I was able to do initial tests on the rear enclosure assembly I spent half
the
> winter building for the MKiii, this weekend. Overall, it looks like a
very
> valuable addition to the aircraft!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
When I started U/L'ing, I was fortunate in having a really great ( and
friendly ) avionics shop at my home field. It's San Juan Avionics at
Fairchild field, in Port Angeles, WA. ( CLM ) He has a box full of David
Clark pieces he let me root through, till I found enough pieces to convert
my old motorcycle helmet. Took a weekend of fairly intensive work, and
$50.00 or so, and I have a great looking, quiet, comfy, and rugged helmet,
that fits me perfectly. ( And I've seldom used it.) If you have a similar
shop nearby, it's a good option. Bought my radios from him, too, and he
gave me a great price, and pre-wired them for me to boot. Great outfit.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Olendorf <olendorf(at)empireone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: headsets
>
> I use a Comtronics Ultra-Pro helmet. I like it. It is pretty quiet and I
> have been told I am transmitting very clearly. I can also hear
transmissions
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Big Wind & Gentle Breeze" <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | FS:Original Firestar - 377 |
The time has come to sell the bird. I'll bore the list with my ad, but where else
would a prospective Kolb buyer look, but in the
Kolb-List? Also, pass info this on to the droolers next time you have your plane
at the local airport.
Kolb Original Firestar with a Rotax-377, completed January 1999. A beautifully
built, nice flying plane with around 65-hours TT.
Flight characteristics are typical Kolb, with short take off and landings, and
climbs like an elevator (I weigh 225)
Instruments include: ASI, altimeter, tach/egt, cht/cht, digital tach/hour meter.
Plane has mechanical disk brakes, 12-volt rect/reg
for radio, lights & GPS. Shielded ignition wiring.
5-gallon fuel tank with shelf for extra gas can behind seat. Remote choke & primer.
60-mph Cruise @ 2.5 to 3 gph.
All steel parts are white powder coated. Stits covered & painted using 2 coats
of Poly Brush, 3 coats of Poly Spray (UV), 2 coats of
white Poly Tone plus red Poly Tone trim.
This is an extra nice Kolb with an attractive paint job, similar to the factory
Firefly (and John Jung's beauty). It has always
been hangared and is flown regularly.
For more information or pictures, please e-mail me at:
ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net
Or for the anxious, my phone number is: (503)838-1195
NOTE! This plane is located in Oregon (a long way from the right
coast)
Price: $7800
Thanks,
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FS:Original Firestar - 377 |
Hi Folks,
I'm a new Firestar owner. Close to solo and need someone to do me a favor.
Can anyone give me the correct numbers for:
Optimum Cruise Speed......
Optimum glide speed........
Unaccelerated stall speed......
Best rate of climb speed........
I have a 503 engine, weigh 190 lbs, 1800 Ft of sod, Elevation 800 ft MSL,
85 degrees, three blade prop. What else?
Would appreciate any help.
Also have broken glass in 2.25" VSI. Anyone know where to get a glass?
I'm in Central Kentucky. One hour from the "NEWKOLB".
Thanks
Bill Beam
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Hoyt <rrh03105(at)quasar.gd-is.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rigging Mark III |
>
>A couple questions on rigging the Mark III:
>
>1. When measuring from the tail to the outboard of the trailing edge, the
>manual says, " one inch differences may be acceptable" - I'm curious what
>actual tolerances planes have been completed with.
I was able to get mine +/- 1/16 inch with a steel tape. I found the Cage
had a 1/4 inch difference in the diagonals from the Spar tabs to the lift
strut tabs.
>2. The hole for the main spar tabs is to be drilled 7/8" up from the bottom
>of the wing. At this measurement, the tabs aren't centered vertically with
>each other - is that correct?
>
My tabs on the wing spar hang below the tabs on the cage.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Broken VSI glass |
Bill, if you can tell me the EXACT diameter of the glass, I'll make you
one fer free. You'll have to take it apart first, then you'll be able to
measure the diameter to fit inside the meter ring. Also, tell me the
thickness of old glass. Not hard for me as I make a lot of stained glass
and have the right tools. Reply off line if you want to:
ronoy(at)shentel.net
And you can send FailMail address for return of new glass.
Grey (just an old cut-up) Baron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Personal Wind Limits Mk3 |
Hi Gang:
I have very little time in my bird to date and have been very conservative on
winds. I am curious as to the personal limits imposed by experienced Mk-3
fliers on themselves. Specific personal limits:
1. Max steady wind down the runway?
2. Max gust off the steady wind?
3. Max crosswind component?
Bill George
Mk-3 582- Ivo (Soon to be Powerfin)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
As an adendum to Mr. George's question what do you guys feel the airspeed
figures are for best angle of climb - and best rate of climb - Vy? .
Secondly, what is the procedure to exit a spin, God help me if I ever get
into one. Dennis and Dan refused to answer the question when I asked. Have
any of you looped a MKIII? Aileron rolled the beast? Snapped rolled the
bugger? Inquiring minds want to know.
Having, at the very least, the steps to exit a spin is, I believe, a good
safety item we all should know.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Basic steps to exit a spin are: 1. Cut the power. 2. Center, or
Neutralize the controls. 3. Hard opposite rudder and hold.
Depending on C.G. and other factors, it may take a couple of turns to
straighten out, and you'd almost certainly be in a very steep, if not
vertical dive. Pull out very carefully. If you are flying at more than
designed rear C.G., you may not be able to exit. That would most certainly
ruin your day. And all future days. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Thompson, Todd <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 1999 12:36 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Vx & Vy
>
> As an adendum to Mr. George's question what do you guys feel the airspeed
> figures are for best angle of climb - and best rate of climb - Vy? .
> Secondly, what is the procedure to exit a spin, God help me if I ever get
> into one. Dennis and Dan refused to answer the question when I asked.
Have
> any of you looped a MKIII? Aileron rolled the beast? Snapped rolled the
> bugger? Inquiring minds want to know.
>
> Having, at the very least, the steps to exit a spin is, I believe, a good
> safety item we all should know.
>
> Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 99-06-04 5:07:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Basic steps to exit a spin are: 1. Cut the power. 2. Center, or
Neutralize the controls. 3. Hard opposite rudder and hold. >>
Big Lar correctly states the general procedure procedure for exiting
a spin in a general aviation aircraft. I have some additional information.
My crazy brother used to do three turn spins from 1300 feet right over the
airport in the Mark II (I know, I know, I said he was crazy). He was in the
plane by himself with mostly full fuel, ie. it was a rearward cg. He would
exit the spin somewhere around 800 ft. He reported that ALL he needed to do
to exit the spin was release the back pressure on the stick. He further
reported that the only way to get the plane to spin was to stall it sharply
and kick hard on the rudder. He said that anything less than full back stick
would result in a nodding series of stalls with the nose coming up and then
down.
I personally have no desire to spin my mark three, but I think that
its good to know that you have to work pretty hard to spin the plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FS:Original Firestar - 377 |
Bill,
Optimum Cruise Speed......60
Optimum glide speed........40
Unaccelerated stall speed......35
Best rate of climb speed........42
These are my own numbers from the origial Firestar that I used to own.
But there is no telling what your airspeed will read at these points. Use these
as a guide and check the stall with your own indicator.
John Jung
BILLBEAM(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm a new Firestar owner. Close to solo and need someone to do me a favor.
>
> Can anyone give me the correct numbers for:
>
> Optimum Cruise Speed......
> Optimum glide speed........
> Unaccelerated stall speed......
> Best rate of climb speed........
>
> I have a 503 engine, weigh 190 lbs, 1800 Ft of sod, Elevation 800 ft MSL,
> 85 degrees, three blade prop. What else?
>
> Would appreciate any help.
>
> Also have broken glass in 2.25" VSI. Anyone know where to get a glass?
> I'm in Central Kentucky. One hour from the "NEWKOLB".
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill Beam
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Cook" <foxcook(at)semo.net> |
| Subject: | TwinStar for sale |
For Sale
Brand New 1986 TwinStar with new, never started 503 Rotex.
Instruments wired and installed. Frame and cowling painted in
metallic green and all frabric in Ag Cat Yellow. Looks nice. Never
outside but always in climate controled shop. Finished and no time
or place to fly. Excellent workmanship. Can be licensed as
Ultrilight trainer or Expermental, your choyce. $9,500.00. Located
in Southeast Missouri. Call 573-222-3679 or e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Howard:
I tell you what, Pardner.... if 190 is the limit, I am building my Bride
the most expensive petunia planter on the planet....
(we already got one of them white tractor tires in the yard....)
Do nor archive... or anything else nasty, for that matter...
Beauford of Brandon
-----Original Message-----
From: HShack(at)aol.com <HShack(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, June 03, 1999 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: W & B
>
>In a message dated 6/3/99 10:02:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>jbidle(at)airmail.net writes:
>
> bought an almost-new Firefly.
>Looks like a baby Firestar. I think it must be made for pilots under 190
>lbs. Cute little thing...
>
>Howard Shackleford
>FS I
>SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Personal Wind Limits Mk3 |
Hi Todd and Doc
Thanks for the input.
>>Why are you changing from a IVO to a Powerfin?<<
The Ivo, while a good prop, apparently is not happy at the slower turns
provided by the "C" box. Cruise is good; climb is not so good. Powerfin is
wide chord blade made for the slower turns.
>>The winds depend on your experience. You don't want to jump into winds
that other people have become accustomed to.<<
That's true. I have over 13K flight time, mostly in jet transports, and lots
of that on fairly short runways with lots of X-wind. But -- the jet ain't the
Mk-3.
>>Steady winds down the runway: I have landed and flown in about 40 mph
winds. I don't say this was fun, but I have flown in it..The plane will
handle it.<<
That is very good info and I really appreciate the insight. (That doesn't
mean I am going to go looking for 40 mph winds, although they are pretty easy
to find around here) I guess the real problem is the unfolding process. Gotta
find some shelter. Thanks again guys. The list is a heck of a resource.
Bill George
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/4/99 7:30:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< I am building my Bride
the most expensive petunia planter on the planet....
(we already got one of them white tractor tires in the yard....) >>
Glad you painted it white so it wouldn"t be tacky.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <ransom(at)mae.engr.ucdavis.edu> |
>My crazy brother used to do three turn spins from 1300 feet right over the
My $.02: I think spins are fun. The FS manual says don't do them, and that
is worthy advice. But from the next statement in my builder manual (FS KXP),
I had -- and have -- plenty of confidence in the FS easily pulling out of
a one turn spin. I took a couple of first time spins with a CFI in a
TCraft, so felt I knew what to expect of myself as well as the FS. First
time was a bigger rush than I expected, but I grew to really like whippin
a single turn spin from time to time. You really feel attached to your
plane. I don't think it was hard to make it spin. Stall and rudder, over
she goes. Comes out just as nicely. I'd recommend anybody get a CFI to
give them some spin training someday, and if the MKIII is known as a sure
thing for easy, conventional spin recovery, I'd recommend getting to that
confidence and proficiency in that plane as well. There are a lot
of conditionals, but if all are met carefully, spins are an important
(and fun) piece of the flying picture. I'll admit, I like a bank-and-yank
aircraft more than a stable (yawn) cruiser. I wouldn't want to own a
plane that was placarded against spins for practical as well as legal
reasons.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/03/99 |
For all those people who enjoyed my story about the firestar crash and would
like to see the pics, go to: http://members.aol.com/TCowan1917/page1.html
You will not believe a man survived that crash. you can also see my little
baby,
Firestar circa 1986 built in 1996 called white Lightning.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GOOCHMAC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: TwinStar for sale |
can you send photos of the plane
marty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Big Wind & Gentle Breeze" <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/03/99 |
----- Original Message -----
From: <TCowan1917(at)aol.com>
>
>You can also see my little baby, Firestar circa 1986 built in 1996 called white
Lightning.
>
I enjoyed the pictures of the accident, and hope I never do the same. It looks
like he came out pretty lucky.
I was particularly interested in your 86/96 Firestar. I completed my 1985 Original
Firestar (Kit #015) last December, and it now
has almost 80 hours on it already.
I wonder if you could tell me about your windscreen. Is it factory, or did you
design it yourself? I'd really like to make one
similar to it because I not only froze my face off this winter, but my radio
is almost un-understandable with all the wind blowing
on the mike.
Thanks for any help you can offer,
Ron
ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LLowedown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Selling FireStar project |
In the early '80's I took leave of all senses and committed the insane acts
of purchasing,assembling,and teaching myself to fly a Rotec Rally 2B.
Actually believing that years of flying model planes would be enough
training, I was fortunate enough to survive two very brief but v e r y
insightful initial launches. Nominal financial and physical pains were
overcome and the third try was a raging success. It was a crazy and wonderful
time. The great state of Texas was kind enough to clear the housing and
smooth the ground for a freeway project that wouldn't really get underway for
two more years........100yards from my garage/hanger! There will never be too
many words typed which extol the thrills of "low and slow" combined with
Ben's favorite "bank and yank" delivered as only ultralights can do. Glider
Rider gave way to Ultralight Flying, and Homer Kolb's ad for ultrastar, and
then FireStar, stole my heart again. What seemed like a lifetime of planning
and saving brought about the "delivery day" many of us have experienced. I
joyfully completed the wings and tail feathers 8 years ago.....no covering.
Needing some cash, I sold my treasures to a friend who added powder coated
factory cage and final kit package. Almost ready to cover and fly, he put it
into storage on the Gulf Coast. Last year I reacquired the total package,
thinking my dream was near at hand. A new business opportunity and personal
relationship prompt (if you get my drift) me to bless this wonderful little
near-airplane on to it's next loving home. Quality construction is evident.
Years of storage, without the Stitts job, have rendered most of the rivets
rusted. Powder coated cage is flawless. Engine was never ordered,
construction manual and blue prints lost in moves. All other "kit"
pieces...fittings,gear, wheels, tank,dacron,etc..complete.$4600. Ron Lowe,
LLowedown(at)aol.com. Austin, TX. 512-794-1975
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | BMW Engine in a Kolb? |
Dear Fellow Kolbers -
Attached is a website showing a picture of a BMW mororcycle engine
mounted in a Europa kitplane. Looks like an ideal installation of the
classic BMW horiz-opposed twin (4-stroke) for a light aircraft. I've
been told that only recently (past 3-5 years or so) has the new lighter
design of the BMW bike engine allowed for an effective installation in
an aircraft. Before, they were simply too heavy for a light plane for
the amount of power they put out. (The flywheel alone weighed 15 lb!)
Apparently, not anymore.
I think this would be an ideal engine candidate for the Mark-III. The
Europa is normally powered by the Rotax-912. The R1100RS is 90 hp. I'm
told it uses a stock Rotax gearbox (but I'm not expert enough to verify
that from this picture). The website is
http://www.loginet.nl/europa/img/bmw1100b.jpg
I've sent out for information to the Europa factory - I'll keep ya all
posted on specifics (weight, cost, etc.) when I hear back, if anybody's
interested. Does anybody know if this has been tried in a Kolb before?
Or any other small plane? Though it is only a single-ingition engine, I
have enough experience with the BMW moto engine to know this is one
reliable and smo-o-o-o-th running engine.
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
65% finished Mark-III
( yet to choose an engine )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BMW Engine in a Kolb? |
Looks very, very good. Please keep us posted. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 1999 10:23 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: BMW Engine in a Kolb?
>
> Dear Fellow Kolbers -
>
> Attached is a website showing a picture of a BMW mororcycle engine
> mounted in a Europa kitplane. Looks like an ideal installation of the
> classic BMW horiz-opposed twin (4-stroke) for a light aircraft. I've
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Cook" <foxcook(at)semo.net> |
| Subject: | 1/4 inch prop bolt torque |
I need the recommended torque for 1/4 inch prop bolts on a TwinStar. I
have a
1986 TwinStar, so don't know for sure if new TwinStars still have 6 1/4 in
prop
bolts or not, but suspect they do on the wooden props, so the torque of a
new
TwinStar would suffice. Thanks in advance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce McElhoe" <brucem(at)theworks.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/4 inch prop bolt torque |
Paul,
Generally the torque for prop bolts is specified by the prop manufacturer.
For wooden props the wood will crush before the bolts are anywhere near
rated tension. I suggest you contact the prop manufacturer because the
torque varies with type of wood and the glue used.
Bruce McElhoe
Firefly in construction.
> I need the recommended torque for 1/4 inch prop bolts on a TwinStar. I
> have a
> 1986 TwinStar, so don't know for sure if new TwinStars still have 6 1/4
in
> prop
> bolts or not, but suspect they do on the wooden props, so the torque of a
> new
> TwinStar would suffice. Thanks in advance.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I am asking this for a friend. He is not flying a Kolb (poor guy) His
problem is, he is using a R & D pipe on a rotax 618 and the exhaust pipe
(small pipe coming off the expansion chamber) came off in warm up and went
through the prop. My question is
has anyone had this problem with an R & D pipe. (I know all about the engine
problems) To me it looks like they tried to keep the weight down & made it
out of material that is too thin. the weld held up but the expansion chamber
broke around the weld.
If anyone has a R & D pipe that is working for them. I think it would be
wise to find a way to put a safety wire on this part of the system. Remember
if this happens at full power & you lose 1/2 of your prop. you may shake
your engine off the plane.
thanks
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Mhqqqqq(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> If anyone has a R & D pipe that is working for them. I think it would be
> wise to find a way to put a safety wire on this part of the system. Remember
> if this happens at full power & you lose 1/2 of your prop. you may shake
> your engine off the plane.
>
> thanks
>
> Mark
>
Hi Mark and Gang:
Also a good reason to fly with a prop that has been proven
to take that kind of abuse at full power in flight. I put
an 18 inch long piece of 1.5 inch diameter exhaust pipe with
two 90 deg bends in it thru my Warp Drive. Put a good sized
nick in the leading edge of one blade and destroyed a 912
Rotax radiator, but after landing at the next airport, I
flew it on home with a little vibration.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 1/4 inch prop bolt torque |
In a message dated 6/6/99 10:30:00 AM Central Daylight Time, foxcook(at)semo.net
writes:
> I need the recommended torque for 1/4 inch prop bolts on a TwinStar. I
> have a
> 1986 TwinStar, so don't know for sure if new TwinStars still have 6 1/4 in
> prop
> bolts or not, but suspect they do on the wooden props, so the torque of a
> new
> TwinStar would suffice. Thanks in advance.
>
>
Kolb spec is 120in/lbs. That's what I run on my 1988 Twinstar Mk2 with a
66x32 wood two-blade Tennessee Propeller....Quarter inch bolts torqued and
safetied and without nuts. 55 hours total and no problems.
Steve Kroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wally Hofmann" <whofmann(at)eudoramail.com> |
| Subject: | voltage regulators/rectifiers |
I'm to the point of getting my wiring in order on a FireFly. I've got the 447
and need to purchase a voltage regulator. About the only electrical system will
be an EIS . I will not have a battery.
In the CPS catalog they list three units.
The Key West for $60
The Rotax 264-870 for $70
The Kuntzleman for $150
Any comments on these?
How often do the regulators fail and fry the instruments?
Last year there was a thread on over voltage protection. Dick Kuntzleman said
he might be able to produce a protective circuit for ~$25 . Has this happened?
If you read the CPS catalog description of his Precision Power Supply it almost
sounds like he has added a circuit there?
Does the Key West offer any sort of over voltage protection?
Thanks.
Wally Hofmann
Wickenburg, Arizona
Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at http://www.eudoramail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: voltage regulators/rectifiers |
Wally,I've used the Key West on a couple of planes and they work great with
or without batt.
Rick Webb
MK3
-----Original Message-----
From: Wally Hofmann <whofmann(at)eudoramail.com>
Date: Sunday, June 06, 1999 11:05 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: voltage regulators/rectifiers
>
>I'm to the point of getting my wiring in order on a FireFly. I've got the
447 and need to purchase a voltage regulator. About the only electrical
system will be an EIS . I will not have a battery.
>
>In the CPS catalog they list three units.
>
>The Key West for $60
>The Rotax 264-870 for $70
>The Kuntzleman for $150
>
>Any comments on these?
>
>How often do the regulators fail and fry the instruments?
>
>Last year there was a thread on over voltage protection. Dick Kuntzleman
said he might be able to produce a protective circuit for ~$25 . Has this
happened? If you read the CPS catalog description of his Precision Power
Supply it almost sounds like he has added a circuit there?
>
>Does the Key West offer any sort of over voltage protection?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Wally Hofmann
>Wickenburg, Arizona
>
>
>Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail
account at http://www.eudoramail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: voltage regulators/rectifiers |
In a message dated 6/6/99 6:58:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
whofmann(at)eudoramail.com writes:
<< I've got the 447 and need to purchase a voltage regulator. About the only
electrical system will be an EIS . I will not have a battery.
>>
Get the Regulator/Rectifier from
grand Rapids Technologies at $49. You can use it with or without a battery.
I use it-works great.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | Selling FireStar project |
ROn, so where is the Firestar now? I'll be in Houston in three weeks. If
the aircraft is nearby I could come over to see it.
MKIII, 582 12.5 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: LLowedown(at)aol.com [mailto:LLowedown(at)aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 1999 10:56 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Selling FireStar project
In the early '80's I took leave of all senses and committed the insane acts
of purchasing,assembling,and teaching myself to fly a Rotec Rally 2B.
Actually believing that years of flying model planes would be enough
training, I was fortunate enough to survive two very brief but v e r y
insightful initial launches. Nominal financial and physical pains were
overcome and the third try was a raging success. It was a crazy and
wonderful
time. The great state of Texas was kind enough to clear the housing and
smooth the ground for a freeway project that wouldn't really get underway
for
two more years........100yards from my garage/hanger! There will never be
too
many words typed which extol the thrills of "low and slow" combined with
Ben's favorite "bank and yank" delivered as only ultralights can do. Glider
Rider gave way to Ultralight Flying, and Homer Kolb's ad for ultrastar, and
then FireStar, stole my heart again. What seemed like a lifetime of planning
and saving brought about the "delivery day" many of us have experienced. I
joyfully completed the wings and tail feathers 8 years ago.....no covering.
Needing some cash, I sold my treasures to a friend who added powder coated
factory cage and final kit package. Almost ready to cover and fly, he put it
into storage on the Gulf Coast. Last year I reacquired the total package,
thinking my dream was near at hand. A new business opportunity and personal
relationship prompt (if you get my drift) me to bless this wonderful little
near-airplane on to it's next loving home. Quality construction is evident.
Years of storage, without the Stitts job, have rendered most of the rivets
rusted. Powder coated cage is flawless. Engine was never ordered,
construction manual and blue prints lost in moves. All other "kit"
pieces...fittings,gear, wheels, tank,dacron,etc..complete.$4600. Ron Lowe,
LLowedown(at)aol.com. Austin, TX. 512-794-1975
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BMW Engine in a Kolb? |
I read on the Aero VW list that the Europa factory tinkered with the BMW
conversion to be able to offer a good engine to go along with their plane at
a good price but finally gave up on it. As I understand they had problems
with the power pulses of the engine setting up a torsional resonance problem
that fairly quickly destroyed the gearboxs. A belt drive would absorb alot
of that better than a gearbox but still is a problem there that would need
to be addressed. (A heavier flywheel is usually the answer to smooth out
power pulses but I have never seen the engine up close so I don't know any
particulars about it.) As I remember on the bike application they had some
kind of rubber dampner in the rear hub that softened out the power pulses
before the hit the wheel.. take this info for what it's worth ..it was
second hand info when I heard it and you know how details can get scrambled
along the way...
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Date: Sunday, June 06, 1999 12:25 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: BMW Engine in a Kolb?
>
>Dear Fellow Kolbers -
>
>Attached is a website showing a picture of a BMW mororcycle engine
>mounted in a Europa kitplane. Looks like an ideal installation of the
>classic BMW horiz-opposed twin (4-stroke) for a light aircraft. I've
>been told that only recently (past 3-5 years or so) has the new lighter
>design of the BMW bike engine allowed for an effective installation in
>an aircraft. Before, they were simply too heavy for a light plane for
>the amount of power they put out. (The flywheel alone weighed 15 lb!)
>Apparently, not anymore.
>I think this would be an ideal engine candidate for the Mark-III. The
>Europa is normally powered by the Rotax-912. The R1100RS is 90 hp. I'm
>told it uses a stock Rotax gearbox (but I'm not expert enough to verify
>that from this picture). The website is
>
>http://www.loginet.nl/europa/img/bmw1100b.jpg
>
>I've sent out for information to the Europa factory - I'll keep ya all
>posted on specifics (weight, cost, etc.) when I hear back, if anybody's
>interested. Does anybody know if this has been tried in a Kolb before?
>Or any other small plane? Though it is only a single-ingition engine, I
>have enough experience with the BMW moto engine to know this is one
>reliable and smo-o-o-o-th running engine.
>
>Dennis Kirby
>Cedar Crest, NM
>65% finished Mark-III
>( yet to choose an engine )
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | More info about BMW conversions |
This is an old message from the Aero VW list with a little BMW trivia for
those interested..
I know at least 3 BMW twin motorbike conversion for aircraft.
One was tried by the english kit manufacturer of the europa. I think they
stopped its devloppement because of torsionnal problems.
The second one is made by a french mechanic artisan CHAPELLE. It is the
1100cc 4 valves. He uses italian zanzoterra 3:1 gear reduction. (like the
rotax one). Seems that the engine is rather stock. The only modified thing
is the electronic ignition/injection module. This guy has got plans,
technical info and rights from BMW France to do so. He is also able to buy
new engines directly from BMW France. Weigth in the 170 lbs range. 60-80 hp.
French price is around 50000 FRF (8350$). NB Rotax 912 french price around
70 000 FRF (11 700$).
The third one is from a german firm called Take Off Power. I think they also
use the zanzoterra reduction.
FYI.
Francois.
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
Kolb M3 wing & tail ARRIVED!
EAA#583961 Local CH. #677
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWilliJill(at)aol.com |
Hello
My name is Ron Williams and I'm new to the list.
I formally had an RV-4 project that I started back
in 1994 and had completed the empenage and had started on
the wing spar but had considerable delays due to a
jog change and a move to a new location. I sold the RV-4 kit
to a friend. I've got the building bug again but this time I believe
I'd like to build a Kolb-Firestar-II. Could anyone comment on
this particular kit? I really need a 2 place aircraft as I have a
wife that enjoys flying also. I'm a licensed private pilot and have
owned a Cessna-150 and a Commance 250 B. I have attended
Sun-and-Fun 10 times over the previous years and seem to find
myself hanging out at the ultra-light area more than anywhere else.
This type of fun flying seems to appeal more to me than just flight
planning from point A to point B. I'll also be going to Oshkosh this
year and hopefully make a decision on which kit to buy. I should
already have most all the tools I would need because of my former
project. Looking forward to being a part the "Kolb family."
Any comments welcomed.
Ron Williams
Battleboro, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
I am wondering what people are using for Aileron Stops on a MKIII, the
information I saw in the manual says bend a piece of aluminum and attach
it to the steel strip at the back of the fairing. I don't understand
what they are trying to tell me to do. The sheet I have also says that
35 degrees each way from horizontal on the aileron torque tube is
sufficient for travel. What are peoples experience with how far the
ailerons need to travel, how far from the tail tube does the torque tube
arm stop?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dorismae Wikre" <dormel(at)means.net> |
The "State Line Flyers" of Southeastern Minnesota are having a Fly In at
our place on July 10th & 11th
91-53-55w
43-46-03n
Grass air strip 30 x 1300 in hayfield.
Cook out & campfire at night.
You are Welcome to come join us.
Mel is building a FireStar.
dormel(at)means.net
Melvin Wikre
Rt 1 Box 314
Lanesboro,MN 55949
If anyone gets this message please acknowledge, don't know if it is getting
through.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clive Hatcher" <clive_hatcher(at)connectfree.co.uk> |
Hi Kolbers,
Its a while since I contacted the group but I've been listening in
regularly. I now have a problem and wonder if anyone has any
experience that could help me. I have just had to replace the tyres
on my Mark III but all I was able to buy in the UK was a tubeless 15 X
6.00 - 6, 6 ply rating in the multi-rib style. Has anybody had any
experience of these and am I likely to put higher loadings on the
bearings and axle with the stiffer walls. I could have bought a 4 ply
rated tubed tyre and I am now having second thoughts ! Another case
of 20/20 hindsight.
Happy landings,
Clive Hatcher,
Peterborough, UK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | arnwine(at)toad.net |
| Subject: | Paint rollers vs spraying. |
To all, especially the gentleman in Ridge Md. I am contemplating ordering
my paint and have been torn between spraying and rolling. The spraying is
so dangerous to breathe, and I'm not too sure of my ability. Whenever I see
an auto which has Orange Peel I think, perhaps my plane will turn out that
way. I really can't spray out of doors, too many trees, (much crud falls
from them constantly)
If the gentleman or any other who has a positive experience with the
rollers, I need to hear from them. Rolling would, perhaps solve my problems
if the finish is acceptable. But the rollers were special. And I have
misplaced the information on the brand and where they can be acquired.
One other note, I plan to use Stitz process and the special rollers tolerate
that.
Thanks, Hank Arnwine, Harwood Md. doing a firestar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Dorismae Wikre wrote:
The "State Line Flyers" of Southeastern Minnesota
are having a Fly In at
> our place on July 10th & 11th
> 91-53-55w
>
Doris Mae: Your msg came thru loud and clear.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Warren, John H." <JHWARREN(at)escocorp.com> |
| Subject: | Oregon Kolb Owners |
I have recently developed an interest in ultralights, and getting tired of
spending a lot of cash renting. I'd like to see one of these Kolb III's up
close, and if anybody is in the Portland Oregon area is willing to show off
theirs, I'd be interested in seeing it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Broken VSI glass |
Got the vsi glasses and they were perfect. Now maybe I can
install one without breaking it.
I really appreciate that and will drop a little comp back to you.
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stops |
The original MKIII had a ducktail fairing around the aileron crank to which
you could attch the limiter as your instruction sheet indicates.
I dont know now since this fairing is no longer added what others are
using to limit the aileron travel.
Frank Reynen MKIII @501.6 hrs (1991 vintage ser#022)
I am wondering what people are using for Aileron Stops on a MKIII, the
information I saw in the manual says bend a piece of aluminum and attach
it to the steel strip at the back of the fairing. I don't understand
what they are trying to tell me to do. The sheet I have also says that
35 degrees each way from horizontal on the aileron torque tube is
sufficient for travel. What are peoples experience with how far the
ailerons need to travel, how far from the tail tube does the torque tube
arm stop?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint rollers vs spraying. |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Hi Hank,
I'm the guy who rolled mine on with good results. I did not dilute the
paint but used it right out of the can. I brushed on the poly-brush dope
then used UV blocked poly-tone. My choice was Insignia White #105 with
Cuby Green for trim. Now the problem is the roller. It has to be one that
stands up to the paint without falling apart. I tried one that is used
for oil-based exterior paints and it worked. Remember to roll slowly or
bubbles will develop and dry into the paint. You will have a "textured"
look, but I think it looks nice and have had compliments on the job. I
brushed the poly-tone over the leading edge ribs and rolled the rest. My
plane will be at Oshkosh this year if you want to see it. The nose and
tail are orange with a green and white sunburst on the wings.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 450 hours
>
>To all, especially the gentleman in Ridge Md. I am contemplating
>ordering
>my paint and have been torn between spraying and rolling. The
>spraying is
>so dangerous to breathe, and I'm not too sure of my ability.
>Thanks, Hank Arnwine, Harwood Md. doing a firestar.
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Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Swihart" <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Kolb Owners |
Get in touch with Fly-UL lister Paul Skaggs..He
might be able to point you
in the right direction.
----- Original Message -----
From: Warren, John H. <JHWARREN(at)escocorp.com>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 1999 2:46 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Oregon Kolb Owners
H."
>
> I have recently developed an interest in
ultralights, and getting tired of
> spending a lot of cash renting. I'd like to see
one of these Kolb III's up
> close, and if anybody is in the Portland Oregon
area is willing to show off
> theirs, I'd be interested in seeing it.
>
>
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makers of fine Aircraft
> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions
of List members.
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Swihart" <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
| Subject: | Whoops: RE: Oregon Kolb Owners |
WHooops sorry for wasting bandwith..
Sorta clicked the mousey button thingy
too fast.....
Get in touch with Portland, Oregon's Fly-UL
lister Paul Skaggs. He might be able to point you
in
the right direction. pskaggs(at)xprt.net
Mark Swihart
Bradley, CA
>
> H."
> . I'd like to see
> one of these Kolb III's up
> > close, and if anybody is in the Portland
Oregon
> area is willing to show off
> > theirs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: voltage regulators/rectifiers |
In a message dated 6/7/99 8:53:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< The EIS (Grand Rapids
Technologies) unit recommended by Brother Shackelford seems to have a couple
of advantages... it costs a little less... gets to you in three
days...(those G.R. people are on the ball...) it's purty... feels good in
yer hand... it is recommended by the EIS people... >>
Fellow EIS users...don't do what I did and try to put a fuse in the AC
[input] side of the Reg/Rect., put your fuse on the DC side[output] as per
instructions.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stops |
Jason
I cut a large washer shaped piece of scrap lexan left over from the windscreen
and attached it to the aileron bell crank with the bolt that attaches the
aileron control rods so the lexan washer comes against the tail tube and limits
the aileron travel. Hope that's clear.
Terry
Jason Omelchuck wrote:
>
> I am wondering what people are using for Aileron Stops on a MKIII, the
> information I saw in the manual says bend a piece of aluminum and attach
> it to the steel strip at the back of the fairing. I don't understand
> what they are trying to tell me to do. The sheet I have also says that
> 35 degrees each way from horizontal on the aileron torque tube is
> sufficient for travel. What are peoples experience with how far the
> ailerons need to travel, how far from the tail tube does the torque tube
> arm stop?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Howdy Kolbers:
Got to get out and do some good quality fun flying this
weekend.
Was helping our newest Sling Shot owner/pilot get some
comparison numbers in flight and got some for myself too.
Engine at idle, 60 mph indicated = 500 FPM decent with no
flaps.
Engine at idle, 60 mph indicated = 1500 FPM decent with full
flaps (aprx 40 deg).
Engine at idle, no flaps, pull back stick until in a mush,
hold that mush at 45 mph indicated = 1700 to 1800 FPM
decent.
Those numbers from a fat 630 lb 912 powered 3 blade Warp
Drive prop MKIII.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stops |
> Jason Omelchuck wrote:
>
>
> >
> > I am wondering what people are using for Aileron Stops on a MKIII,
> the
Hello Jason, how's the Argonaughts???
Listen, while I was building my MKIII, I noticed the throw of the
ailerons was more than the plans called for, so I called Dennis at
Kolb. He informed me these limitations wern't really in effect any
more.. The bellcranks nor any part of the aileron movement should come
into contact with anything, so the limitation should be the throw of the
aileron arms. He (Dennis) even complimented me on having more of a
throw than was limited in the plans. I wouldn't worry about it, unless
you are modifying the aft end of the cage...
I see Terry Swartz (a good German name) mentioned something about a
Lexon washer to protect the tail-tube.. Tell me Terry, did your aileron
mechanism come into contact with the tail-tube while connected to the
ailerons????? If so, maybe something needs looking into...
(Only kidding about the argonaughts)
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: MK III Numbers |
Hi John:
Happiness is numbers. Thanks for the ones you got this weekend. Can you
supply the power off stall speeds for whatever weight you were operating,
clean and with flaps?
Thanks
Bill George
MK-3 582 3.0 "C" Ivo (soon to be Powerfin)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <d-watson(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint rollers vs spraying. |
Hank (and The List)
When you order the paint, ask if they sell a brushing additive, also
there is an additive that is used in automotive painting that will help
prevent orange peel. The paint rollers that we painted our "sailboats" with
is made by "West System" and can be bought at most major marine stores, Boat
US, West Marine, Boaters World, even our local Ridge True Value sells them.
>>>>also, you will need a Badger Hair brush to "Tip" the paint as soon as
it's rolled on. What I'm talking about is that this paint operation is a 2
man job, one person will roll on the paint and another will stand next to
him and very very lightly stroke the paint with the Badger hair brush.
(Stroke the paint in one direction only) The purpose of the brush is to
break up any small bubbles that is generated by the roller. This procedure
came from a $25.00 book that my friend purchased so we would know how to
apply that very expensive paint. For your info, it was Awlgrip paint which
is a 2 part polyurethane, it is supposed to be a 20 year paint that you
don't have to wax. So far it's been 5 years in a very harsh marine
environment and the paint looks like new. ....We turned down many offers to
paint other boats......
Hope this general info helps, good luck on the paint.
Dennis (Ridge MD.)
P.S. Getting ready to do a couple of hours of taxi tests on the Firestar
this weekend.
-----Original Message-----
From: arnwine(at)toad.net <arnwine(at)toad.net>
Date: Monday, June 07, 1999 5:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Paint rollers vs spraying.
>
>To all, especially the gentleman in Ridge Md. I am contemplating ordering
>my paint and have been torn between spraying and rolling. The spraying is
>so dangerous to breathe, and I'm not too sure of my ability. Whenever I
see
>an auto which has Orange Peel I think, perhaps my plane will turn out that
>way. I really can't spray out of doors, too many trees, (much crud falls
>from them constantly)
>
>If the gentleman or any other who has a positive experience with the
>rollers, I need to hear from them. Rolling would, perhaps solve my
problems
>if the finish is acceptable. But the rollers were special. And I have
>misplaced the information on the brand and where they can be acquired.
>
>One other note, I plan to use Stitz process and the special rollers
tolerate
>that.
>Thanks, Hank Arnwine, Harwood Md. doing a firestar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MK III Numbers |
John
What is your idle speed rpm?
Terry
John Hauck wrote:
>
> Howdy Kolbers:
>
> Got to get out and do some good quality fun flying this
> weekend.
>
> Was helping our newest Sling Shot owner/pilot get some
> comparison numbers in flight and got some for myself too.
>
> Engine at idle, 60 mph indicated = 500 FPM decent with no
> flaps.
>
> Engine at idle, 60 mph indicated = 1500 FPM decent with full
> flaps (aprx 40 deg).
>
> Engine at idle, no flaps, pull back stick until in a mush,
> hold that mush at 45 mph indicated = 1700 to 1800 FPM
> decent.
>
> Those numbers from a fat 630 lb 912 powered 3 blade Warp
> Drive prop MKIII.
>
> john h
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MK III Numbers |
WGeorge737(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Happiness is numbers. Thanks for the ones you got this weekend. Can you
> supply the power off stall speeds for whatever weight you were operating,
> clean and with flaps?
>
Aloha Bill and Kolbers:
I was solo with aprx 10 gal fuel on board. OAT in the 90s.
The MK III was stalling aprx 40 mph clean and 38 mph 40 deg
flaps.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MK III Numbers |
Terry Swartz wrote:
>
John
>
> What is your idle speed rpm?
>
> Terry
Terry and Kolbers:
Don't remember for sure, in flight, but on the ground: 1600
rpm. In the air aprx 1800 to 2000 rpm.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | Paint rollers vs spraying. |
Dennis I'm interested in a couple of things regarding your use of Algrip
paint on your Kolb: 1. what weight dacron did you use and 2. how flexible
is the ALgrip and has it maintained it's flexibility over time, 3. have you
performed a stress test of the fabric - when new against it's current
condition?
I went the Stits route and about half way through I didn't think my wife was
going to make it. Even with 3M masks she was very nausiated and if she
remotely smelled the PolySpray, tone or whatever she'd feel ill.
So finding a cheaper less potentially dangerous method of covering and
providing long lasting durability is always of interest so thanks for this
info.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Watson [mailto:d-watson(at)erols.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 1999 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Paint rollers vs spraying.
Hank (and The List)
When you order the paint, ask if they sell a brushing additive, also
there is an additive that is used in automotive painting that will help
prevent orange peel. The paint rollers that we painted our "sailboats" with
is made by "West System" and can be bought at most major marine stores, Boat
US, West Marine, Boaters World, even our local Ridge True Value sells them.
>>>>also, you will need a Badger Hair brush to "Tip" the paint as soon as
it's rolled on. What I'm talking about is that this paint operation is a 2
man job, one person will roll on the paint and another will stand next to
him and very very lightly stroke the paint with the Badger hair brush.
(Stroke the paint in one direction only) The purpose of the brush is to
break up any small bubbles that is generated by the roller. This procedure
came from a $25.00 book that my friend purchased so we would know how to
apply that very expensive paint. For your info, it was Awlgrip paint which
is a 2 part polyurethane, it is supposed to be a 20 year paint that you
don't have to wax. So far it's been 5 years in a very harsh marine
environment and the paint looks like new. ....We turned down many offers to
paint other boats......
Hope this general info helps, good luck on the paint.
Dennis (Ridge MD.)
P.S. Getting ready to do a couple of hours of taxi tests on the Firestar
this weekend.
-----Original Message-----
From: arnwine(at)toad.net <arnwine(at)toad.net>
Date: Monday, June 07, 1999 5:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Paint rollers vs spraying.
>
>To all, especially the gentleman in Ridge Md. I am contemplating ordering
>my paint and have been torn between spraying and rolling. The spraying is
>so dangerous to breathe, and I'm not too sure of my ability. Whenever I
see
>an auto which has Orange Peel I think, perhaps my plane will turn out that
>way. I really can't spray out of doors, too many trees, (much crud falls
>from them constantly)
>
>If the gentleman or any other who has a positive experience with the
>rollers, I need to hear from them. Rolling would, perhaps solve my
problems
>if the finish is acceptable. But the rollers were special. And I have
>misplaced the information on the brand and where they can be acquired.
>
>One other note, I plan to use Stitz process and the special rollers
tolerate
>that.
>Thanks, Hank Arnwine, Harwood Md. doing a firestar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | Landing gear help |
For those of you who worry about bending your FireStar/fly or MK2/3 Ihave a
simple and very light weight "helping hand" solution whichcan be added at
any time and easily modified to meet your special needs. I can't attach the
drawing because it is sent as a mime message. So e-mail me you private
address and I can attach the file and reply to your inquiry.
Todd Thompson
Cendant Telecommunications Dept.
Trumbull, CT
203-365-5635
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G. Johannsson" <johann.g(at)centrum.is> |
| Subject: | Aileron push pull tube |
Hi Kolb listers.
I do have a question to Firestar II owners.
Has anyone experienced that the aileron push-pull tube (right side on my
plane) rubs against the bolt and nut for the fuselage tube, when the
wings are folded.
I use a hair rubber band to hold the push pull tube from falling out,
wrap the rubber band around the vertical tube on the cage, and around
the push pull tube. Can't see any better way to prevent the stick from
falling down.
This problem did not occur on my first Firestar II. I do not know what
changed, maybe the tube extending back out of the cage where the
push/pull stick bolt to, is shorter???
The bolt is craping the paint of the stick and will rust later, if not
corrected.
It does not create any problem during flight, just when folding.
No major concern, but would appreciate any input.
Best regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Swihart" <mswihart(at)tcsn.net> |
| Subject: | Oregon Mark III follow up |
Follow up on a previous thread on some one looking
for a Mk III in Oregon....
Hi Mark,
I got a message from Paul Skaggs, asking me if I
know of any Kolb Mk III's,
and he sent me a copy of the email you sent him...
There's only one flying Kolb Mk III that I know of
up there. It's owned by a
UFO member, Paul Runyon, I think. He keeps his
plane at an airport in the
Vancouver area, but I cant think of the name of it
at the moment... I've
never seen his plane, but I know it's flying
now...
There's someone in the Salem area who's building
one now, and I saw it this
past weekend at the Independance Fly-in. He just
needs to cover it, and do
some minor finishing touches. It was cool to see
it before it's covered. I
sure would like to have one of those planes.
There's a Kolb at the Sandy
River airport, I think. It's not a Mk III
though....
If you'd like me to get the name, phone #, and/or
Address of the guy in
Salem, I can do that...I don't know him personally
Sincerely,
Randy Simpson
Albany, Oregon
Carrera Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Stops |
The stops on N420P are 1 1/4" long from the surface of the tube.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>I am wondering what people are using for Aileron Stops on a MKIII, the
>information I saw in the manual says bend a piece of aluminum and attach
>it to the steel strip at the back of the fairing. I don't understand
>what they are trying to tell me to do. The sheet I have also says that
>35 degrees each way from horizontal on the aileron torque tube is
>sufficient for travel. What are peoples experience with how far the
>ailerons need to travel, how far from the tail tube does the torque tube
>arm stop?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AWIA" <awia(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/07/99 |
Looking for 2 Place - Folding Wing - 912 Engine - Ready to fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Carroll" <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Mark III follow up |
Randy, Paul Runyan flies out of Camas, WA. His home phone is: (360)834-3772.
The fellow you refer to in Salem is Ron Gilbertson (503)581-5062, and has no internet
access. He was mounting the wings at the
Independence EAA hangar today.
Also in Independence is a new Mark-III/618, just finished and ready for FAA sign-off.
If interested you can call me (503)838-1195,
or e-mail me ( ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net ) to make arrangement to see it. It
should take its maiden flight very soon.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Swihart <mswihart(at)tcsn.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 1999 1:48 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Oregon Mark III follow up
>
> Follow up on a previous thread on some one looking
> for a Mk III in Oregon....
>
> Hi Mark,
> I got a message from Paul Skaggs, asking me if I
> know of any Kolb Mk III's,
> and he sent me a copy of the email you sent him...
>
> There's only one flying Kolb Mk III that I know of
> up there. It's owned by a
> UFO member, Paul Runyon, I think. He keeps his
> plane at an airport in the
> Vancouver area, but I cant think of the name of it
> at the moment... I've
> never seen his plane, but I know it's flying
> now...
> There's someone in the Salem area who's building
> one now, and I saw it this
> past weekend at the Independance Fly-in. He just
> needs to cover it, and do
> some minor finishing touches. It was cool to see
> it before it's covered. I
> sure would like to have one of those planes.
> There's a Kolb at the Sandy
> River airport, I think. It's not a Mk III
> though....
>
> If you'd like me to get the name, phone #, and/or
> Address of the guy in
> Salem, I can do that...I don't know him personally
>
> Sincerely,
> Randy Simpson
> Albany, Oregon
> Carrera Pilot
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce McElhoe" <brucem(at)theworks.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear help |
----- Original Message -----
From: Thompson, Todd <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 1999 10:43 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Landing gear help
Todd,
I'm part-way through construction on a Firefly.....and, yes, I'm worried
about the gear. Another Kolb at our field has bent gear....I'll share your
idea with him.
Many thanks.
Bruce McElhoe FF#88
Reedley, Calif.
> For those of you who worry about bending your FireStar/fly....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Electrical Question |
Dear Kolb Newsgroup folks -
I am at the stage of preparing to install the electrical system in my
Mark-III, and I'm here to ask the all-knowing Kolb forum (that's all YOU
guys with already-done-this airplanes) a couple of basic electrical &
wiring questions.
I'll begin with the basic info on my planned system: 12v with battery, a
starter, a few instruments requiring DC current (EGT, CHT, Hobbs), and a
few DC circuits (radio, strobe, intercom, elec fuel pump).
1) What gauge stranded wiring is suitable for the following
applications:
TO STARTER. (I suspect 8-10 ga. Engine will be Rotax-582 or equiv.)
FOR ELEC POWER CONSUMERS. (Like radio, strobe, etc. 16-18 ga?)
FOR LOW-DRAW ELEC ITEMS. (Like EGT & CHT gauges, Hobbs. 20-22 ga?)
FOR SIGNAL LINES. (Like EGT & CHT probes, tach wire. 22-24 ga?)
IGNITION KILL WIRES. (Ones that lead to the ignition kill switch.
18-20 ga?)
2) I am a believer in fusing everything electric, for safety, but I
don't want to overdo it. I plan to install fuses for each elec power
consumer (radio, strobe, etc. I'm using ATC/ATO automotive-type blade
fuses - nice and compact). For the low-draw electical items (EGT, CHT
gauges, Hobbs, elec tach), is it acceptable to run ALL these from a
SINGLE FUSE, or should EACH of these instruments have their own
DEDICATED fuse?
3) Finally, what rating fuses are suitable for all these electrical
consumers?
STARTER (20amp?)
RADIO, STROBE, INTERCOM (15amp?)
EGT/CHT GAUGES (5 or 10amp?) (assuming each w/dedicated fuse)
HOBBS, ELEC TACH (3 or 5 amp?)
4) Does it help to shield all the elec wires behind the
instrument panel in order to minimize EM interference with the compass,
which is nearby (compass is 4 to 10 inches from gauges requiring DC
currrent)? Or not?
I have checked the archives already, and indeed, the subject of
electrical and wiring has been discussed (several times) over the past 3
years. Too many to thread thru each one of them for this specific
information, so I'm hopeful I'll get all the data I need from you guys
"real time."
Thanks -
Dennis Kirby
Mk-III, s/n M3-300
65% finished in Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Mark III follow up |
There is currently a Mk. 3 being worked on in the engine shop at the
Arlington Washington airport on the Ultralight side.
Jl1339(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | Helping hand file |
Looks like we're having trouble getting the drawings and MSWORD file across
firewalls. If anybody has a suggestion as to how we can send a drawing
without producing a mime conversion I'd love to here it.
In the mean time here is a text explaination of what I was trying to
"picture" for you.
Summary explaination: I used the left over rudder cable from the kit to tie
the axles together under the cage. This cable runs through a 2.5" stainless
steel ring which is bungied to the frame of the cage under the landing gear
mounting tubes on the MK#. I have a hole in the fabric to allow the ring to
stick down or in other words to remain outside the fuselage cage. I assume
you can arrange the same type of installation on any other KOLB.
1. I drilled the axle extension - opposite the wheel - out with a 3/16
drill.
2. I used a SS shackle on the end of the axle. Shackles came from a marine
supply store.
3. The SS cable is swaged and mounted to the shackle - so it's removable
from the axle and the shackle can be removed from the cable.
4. The SS ring is mounted to the frame using shock / bungie cord - 3/8 inch
and the ends secured to the frame inside the cage.
5. the SS cable is routed from one axle up through the SS ring and down to
the other axle.
This is a poor mans Piper Cub shock mount and it works really well.
Depending on the length of the cable and the number of shock cord loops
arrangement will give you varying "help" to minimise the amount of
deflection of the landing gear. Best of all the whole arrangement won't
weigh more than a half lb. The ring allows the cable to slide so if you land
hard on one wheel the other landing gear will also help minimise overflex
and possible bending.
Todd Thompson
Cendant Telecommunications Dept.
Trumbull, CT
203-365-5635
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Question |
I'll be reading responses to this with great interest myself. I've got the
panel wired, and am ready to buy and install breakers. Still researching
this myself, but it sounds to me like you're going way over size on your
breakers. Jim McNabb at Narco suggested 1 1/2 amp each, for radio and
transponder, 2 1/2 for altitude encoder. For the F.I. fuel pumps, SWAG
recommended 10 amps each; the pumps pull about 6 amps. On the crank fired
ignition, he recommended 7 1/2 amp brkrs; they draw about 4 amps each. Any
One ??? On the ignition and pumps I used 14 ga. tefzel; radios and
strobes, 18 ga. and on instruments and all, used 22 ga. and 26 ga shielded
computer cable. Again, Any One ?? Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 1999 7:31 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Electrical Question
>
> Dear Kolb Newsgroup folks -
>
> I am at the stage of preparing to install the electrical system in my
> Mark-III, and I'm here to ask the all-knowing Kolb forum (that's all YOU
> guys with already-done-this airplanes) a couple of basic electrical &
> wiring questions.
>
> I'll begin with the basic info on my planned system: 12v with battery, a
> starter, a few instruments requiring DC current (EGT, CHT, Hobbs), and a
> few DC circuits (radio, strobe, intercom, elec fuel pump).
>
> 1) What gauge stranded wiring is suitable for the following
> applications:
>
> TO STARTER. (I suspect 8-10 ga. Engine will be Rotax-582 or equiv.)
> FOR ELEC POWER CONSUMERS. (Like radio, strobe, etc. 16-18 ga?)
> FOR LOW-DRAW ELEC ITEMS. (Like EGT & CHT gauges, Hobbs. 20-22 ga?)
> FOR SIGNAL LINES. (Like EGT & CHT probes, tach wire. 22-24 ga?)
> IGNITION KILL WIRES. (Ones that lead to the ignition kill switch.
> 18-20 ga?)
>
> 2) I am a believer in fusing everything electric, for safety, but I
> don't want to overdo it. I plan to install fuses for each elec power
> consumer (radio, strobe, etc. I'm using ATC/ATO automotive-type blade
> fuses - nice and compact). For the low-draw electical items (EGT, CHT
> gauges, Hobbs, elec tach), is it acceptable to run ALL these from a
> SINGLE FUSE, or should EACH of these instruments have their own
> DEDICATED fuse?
>
> 3) Finally, what rating fuses are suitable for all these electrical
> consumers?
> STARTER (20amp?)
> RADIO, STROBE, INTERCOM (15amp?)
> EGT/CHT GAUGES (5 or 10amp?) (assuming each w/dedicated fuse)
> HOBBS, ELEC TACH (3 or 5 amp?)
>
> 4) Does it help to shield all the elec wires behind the
> instrument panel in order to minimize EM interference with the compass,
> which is nearby (compass is 4 to 10 inches from gauges requiring DC
> currrent)? Or not?
>
> I have checked the archives already, and indeed, the subject of
> electrical and wiring has been discussed (several times) over the past 3
> years. Too many to thread thru each one of them for this specific
> information, so I'm hopeful I'll get all the data I need from you guys
> "real time."
>
> Thanks -
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mk-III, s/n M3-300
> 65% finished in Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <d-watson(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Helping hand file |
Todd,
Please send it to me. I feel first flights will be happening soon.
Dennis --- djwatson(at)olg.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Thompson, Todd <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com>
Date: Wednesday, June 09, 1999 9:25 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Helping hand file
>
>Looks like we're having trouble getting the drawings and MSWORD file across
>firewalls. If anybody has a suggestion as to how we can send a drawing
>without producing a mime conversion I'd love to here it.
>
>In the mean time here is a text explaination of what I was trying to
>"picture" for you.
>
>
>Summary explaination: I used the left over rudder cable from the kit to
tie
>the axles together under the cage. This cable runs through a 2.5"
stainless
>steel ring which is bungied to the frame of the cage under the landing gear
>mounting tubes on the MK#. I have a hole in the fabric to allow the ring
to
>stick down or in other words to remain outside the fuselage cage. I assume
>you can arrange the same type of installation on any other KOLB.
>
>1. I drilled the axle extension - opposite the wheel - out with a 3/16
>drill.
>2. I used a SS shackle on the end of the axle. Shackles came from a
marine
>supply store.
>3. The SS cable is swaged and mounted to the shackle - so it's removable
>from the axle and the shackle can be removed from the cable.
>4. The SS ring is mounted to the frame using shock / bungie cord - 3/8
inch
>and the ends secured to the frame inside the cage.
>5. the SS cable is routed from one axle up through the SS ring and down to
>the other axle.
>
>This is a poor mans Piper Cub shock mount and it works really well.
>Depending on the length of the cable and the number of shock cord loops
>arrangement will give you varying "help" to minimise the amount of
>deflection of the landing gear. Best of all the whole arrangement won't
>weigh more than a half lb. The ring allows the cable to slide so if you
land
>hard on one wheel the other landing gear will also help minimise overflex
>and possible bending.
>
>Todd Thompson
>Cendant Telecommunications Dept.
>Trumbull, CT
>203-365-5635
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <d-watson(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Helping hand file |
OOPS sorry about prior posting, clicked too soon.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | Helping hand file |
Hey, Dennis, please look for a verbal explanation posted on the list this
a.m. File transfer thru e-mials got all screwed up.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Watson [mailto:d-watson(at)erols.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 1999 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Helping hand file
Todd,
Please send it to me. I feel first flights will be happening soon.
Dennis --- djwatson(at)olg.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Thompson, Todd <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com>
Date: Wednesday, June 09, 1999 9:25 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Helping hand file
>
>Looks like we're having trouble getting the drawings and MSWORD file across
>firewalls. If anybody has a suggestion as to how we can send a drawing
>without producing a mime conversion I'd love to here it.
>
>In the mean time here is a text explaination of what I was trying to
>"picture" for you.
>
>
>Summary explaination: I used the left over rudder cable from the kit to
tie
>the axles together under the cage. This cable runs through a 2.5"
stainless
>steel ring which is bungied to the frame of the cage under the landing gear
>mounting tubes on the MK#. I have a hole in the fabric to allow the ring
to
>stick down or in other words to remain outside the fuselage cage. I assume
>you can arrange the same type of installation on any other KOLB.
>
>1. I drilled the axle extension - opposite the wheel - out with a 3/16
>drill.
>2. I used a SS shackle on the end of the axle. Shackles came from a
marine
>supply store.
>3. The SS cable is swaged and mounted to the shackle - so it's removable
>from the axle and the shackle can be removed from the cable.
>4. The SS ring is mounted to the frame using shock / bungie cord - 3/8
inch
>and the ends secured to the frame inside the cage.
>5. the SS cable is routed from one axle up through the SS ring and down to
>the other axle.
>
>This is a poor mans Piper Cub shock mount and it works really well.
>Depending on the length of the cable and the number of shock cord loops
>arrangement will give you varying "help" to minimise the amount of
>deflection of the landing gear. Best of all the whole arrangement won't
>weigh more than a half lb. The ring allows the cable to slide so if you
land
>hard on one wheel the other landing gear will also help minimise overflex
>and possible bending.
>
>Todd Thompson
>Cendant Telecommunications Dept.
>Trumbull, CT
>203-365-5635
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Hoyt <rrh03105(at)quasar.gd-is.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Question |
>
>
>Dear Kolb Newsgroup folks -
>
>I am at the stage of preparing to install the electrical system in my
>Mark-III, and I'm here to ask the all-knowing Kolb forum (that's all YOU
>guys with already-done-this airplanes) a couple of basic electrical &
>wiring questions.
>
While I am still wiring I have designed the electrical system and procured
the materials for a Mark III. This will be a numbered bird and operating
in and about class B airspace. It probably has more avionics than you are
interested in and has a 912 engine. All my wire is from Boeing Surplus
store and is tefzel coated multi strand nickle plated cooper wire and must
use crimp terminal connectors. It was dirt cheap thanks to another list.
A fundamental perspective on the wiring in your vehicle; Fuses are to
protect the WIRE not the load. If the load fails, it is a done deed, you
don't want it taking anything with it like burning wires. Normally the
load is fused if it needs internal protection. The exception to this is
transient pulses from collapsing fields (like your starter solenoid) that
are too fast for fuses to block. If you have expensive avionics I would
recommend some surge protectors across their power sources. The devices
are only a couple of dollars apiece and are smaller than a penny.
>I'll begin with the basic info on my planned system: 12v with battery, a
>starter, a few instruments requiring DC current (EGT, CHT, Hobbs), and a
>few DC circuits (radio, strobe, intercom, elec fuel pump).
>
>1) What gauge stranded wiring is suitable for the following
>applications:
>
>TO STARTER. (I suspect 8-10 ga. Engine will be Rotax-582 or equiv.)
I have an 18 AH recombinant gas battery and am using AWG 6 wire in the
starter circuit.
For power consumers like landing lights (100 Watts - 8 Amps)) I use AWG 16
wire. A radio is not a power consumer in this context.
For everything else except voltage regulator, strobes and high impedance
sensors I use AWG 20 wire.
The wiring from the engine dynamo to the voltage regulator is AWG 10 wire.
This is an AC voltage that varies in amplitude and frequency according to
the engine RPM.
I use shielded wire that grounds the shield at only 1 end for all nosey
circuits like the strobes and engine ignition. I try to attenuate the
noise at the source.
The wiring for temperature probes is a special situation that requires
matching the probe wire. The gage of these wires is determined by the
mechanical requirements not the electrical requirements. In general the
probe wires generate voltage across a dissimilar metal junction in
proportion to their temperature. This occurs at every junction in the
probe circuit. To preclude an offset in the micro volt signal coming from
the sensing junction all non measuring junctions must be at the same
temperature. Making junctions with similar wire removes the voltage
generation and hence the requirement for temperature control. Inside the
display device there is a dissimilar junction to measure the ambient
temperature of the display and thus corrects the signal for ambient
temperature. The insertion of any dissimilar wire in these circuits is an
opportunity for insertion of sensor errors.
>FOR ELEC POWER CONSUMERS. (Like radio, strobe, etc. 16-18 ga?)
>FOR LOW-DRAW ELEC ITEMS. (Like EGT & CHT gauges, Hobbs. 20-22 ga?)
>FOR SIGNAL LINES. (Like EGT & CHT probes, tach wire. 22-24 ga?)
>IGNITION KILL WIRES. (Ones that lead to the ignition kill switch.
>18-20 ga?)
>
>2) I am a believer in fusing everything electric, for safety, but I
>don't want to overdo it. I plan to install fuses for each elec power
>consumer (radio, strobe, etc. I'm using ATC/ATO automotive-type blade
>fuses - nice and compact). For the low-draw electical items (EGT, CHT
>gauges, Hobbs, elec tach), is it acceptable to run ALL these from a
>SINGLE FUSE, or should EACH of these instruments have their own
>DEDICATED fuse?
>
>3) Finally, what rating fuses are suitable for all these electrical
>consumers?
>STARTER (20amp?)
>RADIO, STROBE, INTERCOM (15amp?)
>EGT/CHT GAUGES (5 or 10amp?) (assuming each w/dedicated fuse)
>HOBBS, ELEC TACH (3 or 5 amp?)
I would be very surprised to see 15 amps being used by todays avionics.
The Hand held radios run on milliamps. I am using 1.5 amp circuit breakers
for most of my avionics. I think the automotive fuses are quite satisfactory.
>
>4) Does it help to shield all the elec wires behind the
>instrument panel in order to minimize EM interference with the compass,
>which is nearby (compass is 4 to 10 inches from gauges requiring DC
>currrent)? Or not?
The wires to be shielded are the noise sources. Keep throes wires as far
away from everything as possible. The compass reacts to magnetic fields.
Every wire carrying current produces a magnetic field around itself in
proportion to the current. Twisted pair wires will cancel each others
fields provided both wires are carrying the same current. This means that
one wire carries power to the load and the other wire returns the power.
All of it!
The placement of the compass will be a gamble depending on the wire use in
the vicinity. I am going to include the compass in my panel and will have
an intercom 4 or 5 inches away. I have a plan B to move the compass off
the panel if it is disturbed.
>
>I have checked the archives already, and indeed, the subject of
>electrical and wiring has been discussed (several times) over the past 3
>years. Too many to thread thru each one of them for this specific
>information, so I'm hopeful I'll get all the data I need from you guys
>"real time."
>
>Thanks -
>
>Dennis Kirby
>Mk-III, s/n M3-300
>65% finished in Cedar Crest, NM
>
>~~************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Hoyt <rrh03105(at)quasar.gd-is.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Question |
>
> On the crank fired
>ignition, he recommended 7 1/2 amp brkrs; they draw about 4 amps each.
On my 912 the ignition is CDI and wired into the dynamo by Rotax. The
wires to the starter are grounds for killing the ignition. There are no
fuses in this circuit.
Any
>One ??? On the ignition and pumps I used 14 ga. tefzel; radios and
>strobes, 18 ga. and on instruments and all, used 22 ga. and 26 ga shielded
>computer cable. Again, Any One ??
I would recommend controlling the system noise at each source also.
Ron
Big Lar.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
>To: kolb-list
>Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 1999 7:31 PM
>Subject: Electrical Question
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Hoyt <rrh03105(at)quasar.gd-is.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Helping hand file |
This is a very clever use of the extra cable and an interesting spring
stiffener for the gear legs. I would like a copy of your idea when you
send them out.
Ron
>
>
>Looks like we're having trouble getting the drawings and MSWORD file across
>firewalls. If anybody has a suggestion as to how we can send a drawing
>without producing a mime conversion I'd love to here it.
>
>In the mean time here is a text explaination of what I was trying to
>"picture" for you.
>
>
>Summary explaination: I used the left over rudder cable from the kit to tie
>the axles together under the cage. This cable runs through a 2.5" stainless
>steel ring which is bungied to the frame of the cage under the landing gear
>mounting tubes on the MK#. I have a hole in the fabric to allow the ring to
>stick down or in other words to remain outside the fuselage cage. I assume
>you can arrange the same type of installation on any other KOLB.
>
>1. I drilled the axle extension - opposite the wheel - out with a 3/16
>drill.
>2. I used a SS shackle on the end of the axle. Shackles came from a marine
>supply store.
>3. The SS cable is swaged and mounted to the shackle - so it's removable
>from the axle and the shackle can be removed from the cable.
>4. The SS ring is mounted to the frame using shock / bungie cord - 3/8 inch
>and the ends secured to the frame inside the cage.
>5. the SS cable is routed from one axle up through the SS ring and down to
>the other axle.
>
>This is a poor mans Piper Cub shock mount and it works really well.
>Depending on the length of the cable and the number of shock cord loops
>arrangement will give you varying "help" to minimise the amount of
>deflection of the landing gear. Best of all the whole arrangement won't
>weigh more than a half lb. The ring allows the cable to slide so if you land
>hard on one wheel the other landing gear will also help minimise overflex
>and possible bending.
>
>Todd Thompson
>Cendant Telecommunications Dept.
>Trumbull, CT
>203-365-5635
>
>
>~~************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Helping hand file |
You might try zipping (compressing) the file attachments prior to sending.
You can use file compression programs such as WinZip or PKZip which are free
from their websites.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/09/99 |
Good luck on transferring MIME files. I have downloaded a bunch of these and
blow my mind each time. I dont know what program makes them but I have
busted them in the outlood express files but they usually burn a couple of my
hours. Now, I just take a quick look and get rid of them. I have asked
supposed experts around here about them and they say "whats a mime file".
G'luck. Ted By the way, sold the ULTRASTAR to as very nice guy who had his
wrecked by a storm and took his in trade so I will give new life to yet
another victim of time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marcoa(at)aviation.denel.co.za (Marco Andreani) |
| Subject: | FW: Re engine Kolb mk3 |
-----Original Message-----
From: Marco Andriani [SMTP:marcoa(at)aviation.denel.co.za]
Sent: 27 May 1999 01:11
Subject: Re engine Kolb mk3
Please can you furnish me with the consequences of installing a rotax 912
instead of a rotax 582 on my mk3 KOLB.
Mass and cg
Engine installation.
Propeller change (I have a 3 blade prop)
Engine instrumentation
I have read an article in an aircraft journal that specifies that Vne is
100 Mph instead of 90 mph as specified when I purchased the kit . Has the
envelope been expanded or is this a typing error .
Your assistance is always appreciated
Marco Andreani ( marcoa(at)aviation.denel.co.za)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AWIA" <awia(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/09/99 |
Does anyone have any information on fuel injection for the 503? There is a
reference to Triton Engineering in the archives but have not been able to
locate them or find any information about fuel injection in 2 strokes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/09/99 |
In a message dated 6/10/99 3:58:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, awia(at)vcn.com
writes:
<< Does anyone have any information on fuel injection for the 503? >>
There was a write-up in one of the "Ultralight Flying" magazines about 5-6
months ago. Be prepared to pay.....
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Dual in NJ or PA |
Group,
I'm visiting the Philadelphia area next week, and would like to get some
time in a Mark III. I would be happy to pay $50 per hour plus gas (or
more... whatever's fair). My Mark III is still a few months from completion.
Thank you.
Chris Sudlow
suds77(at)earthlink.net or 800- 652-3546 (pager- any time)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Question |
I'll be using the Geo fuel injection, and crank fired ignition systems on my
VW engine, a la SWAG. One guy on the list was going to send me some specs
on a similar system, but never did, even tho' I asked several times after he
offered. Don't know what happened. Now, with Steve Parkman of SWAG having
been killed in a crash, I don't know exactly how this is going to work out.
I DO know, that after all this, come hell or high water, this SOB is
gonna get done. The extra info would have just made it much simpler is all.
The engine is built, finally, and looks great. Starting on the final
engine mounting now. The computer cable is what I had available, for free,
so I grabbed it. 8 conductor, 26 ga stranded, tinned copper, double
shielded; such a deal. I did some jerking, tugging, scraping, etc. tests on
it, and was Very Impressed with the stuff. Also some at the hotel has been
out in the desert sun for 5 or 6 yrs now, and looks great. Still tough ,
too. Can't beat that with a stick. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Hoyt <rrh03105(at)quasar.gd-is.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 1999 8:53 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Electrical Question
>
> >
> > On the crank fired
> >ignition, he recommended 7 1/2 amp brkrs; they draw about 4 amps each.
>
> On my 912 the ignition is CDI and wired into the dynamo by Rotax. The
> wires to the starter are grounds for killing the ignition. There are no
> fuses in this circuit.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kae and Barney Ellis" <ellis(at)par1.net> |
Gentlemen-
I have read the "list" for approximately one year now, and enjoy and value
much of the input. I have a question and would appreciate any comments. I
am installing the top false ribs on my Mk III wing and notice when the nose
of the false rib is properly located on the front spar and the rear of the
false rib (main spar end) is properly elevated to match the main rib height,
that the airfoil of the false rib does not match the airfoil of the main rib
in the middle portion. That is to say that the false rib does not arch up
as high in the middle part. Is this normal?
Kae & Barney Ellis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
That's odd. My Mk III wings are hanging just outside the door from the
porch ceiling, so I went and took a look, and then straight-edged them. The
curve, or arch, of the false ribs Exactly Matches the main ribs, all the
way. I checked several points all down the wing, and from leading edge to
spar. I can't remember if I re-arched them, but I guess I must have.
It's been over 2 yrs., and I'm gettin' old, man. - CRS ) Dug out the
promo pic of the Mk III, and they look like they match in that, too. Seems
to me like they would have to. Seems like I used that straight-edge a LOT.
Any One Else ?? Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Kae and Barney Ellis <ellis(at)par1.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 1999 8:18 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: False Ribs
>
> Gentlemen-
>
> I have read the "list" for approximately one year now, and enjoy and value
> much of the input. I have a question and would appreciate any comments.
I
> am installing the top false ribs on my Mk III wing and notice when the
nose
> of the false rib is properly located on the front spar and the rear of the
> false rib (main spar end) is properly elevated to match the main rib
height,
> that the airfoil of the false rib does not match the airfoil of the main
rib
> in the middle portion. That is to say that the false rib does not arch up
> as high in the middle part. Is this normal?
>
> Kae & Barney Ellis
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
Kae and Barney Ellis wrote:
>
> --------------------------------------------
> am installing the top false ribs on my Mk III wing and notice when the
> nose
> That is to say that the false rib does not arch up as high in the
> middle part. Is this normal?
>
> Kae & Barney Ellis
Hello ;
The best info I could offer is this:
Lay and secure a few straight edges (extra pieces of tube) over a few
ribs where you wish to add the false rib. Fit the false rib up to the
straight edges and secure it at that location. Even if the front or
rear mounting isn't exactly identical, the airfoil will match..
This was the easiest method I could think of. Sometimes I had to bend
the trailing edge for mounting on the boom,, but no problems other than
that...
Hope this helps.
regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
Barney,
Mine didn't match up either. I gently hand bent them across my stomach, and
checked the bend with straight edges clamped spanwise across the main ribs
till I got it right. After doing a few, you'll know about how much to bend
them.
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Kae and Barney Ellis <ellis(at)par1.net>
Date: Thursday, June 10, 1999 10:31 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: False Ribs
>
>Gentlemen-
>
>I have read the "list" for approximately one year now, and enjoy and value
>much of the input. I have a question and would appreciate any comments. I
>am installing the top false ribs on my Mk III wing and notice when the nose
>of the false rib is properly located on the front spar and the rear of the
>false rib (main spar end) is properly elevated to match the main rib
height,
>that the airfoil of the false rib does not match the airfoil of the main
rib
>in the middle portion. That is to say that the false rib does not arch up
>as high in the middle part. Is this normal?
>
>Kae & Barney Ellis
>
>
-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/10/1999 11:30:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ellis(at)par1.net writes:
> does not match the airfoil of the main rib
> in the middle portion. That is to say that the false rib does not arch up
> as high in the middle part. Is this normal?
>
No, should be equal height. This means a little extra arc needs to be bent.
Would you believe I used my stomach as a bending anvil?
Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dual in NJ or PA |
The BFI North of Trenton is Jim Spadafora, operating out of Twin Pine
Airport. I can vouch for the fact that he is a superb instructor. I hear
his Mark II will be back on line shortly. His number is 609-499-3045.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | afnorway(at)netwurx.net |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/10/99 |
Matronics,
Please Remove me from all Kolb mailing lists. Thank you
E-mail: afnorway(at)netwurx.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GOOCHMAC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Kethuan-Zepher II |
I need some help---recently purchased a Zepher II 2 place---I'm looking for
anyone who has one or know who has one--thanks for your help.
Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Yep, it's normal. Not good, but normal. Rebend them until a straight edge
laid along the front of all ribs touches them all evenly.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Gentlemen-
>
>I have read the "list" for approximately one year now, and enjoy and value
>much of the input. I have a question and would appreciate any comments. I
>am installing the top false ribs on my Mk III wing and notice when the nose
>of the false rib is properly located on the front spar and the rear of the
>false rib (main spar end) is properly elevated to match the main rib height,
>that the airfoil of the false rib does not match the airfoil of the main rib
>in the middle portion. That is to say that the false rib does not arch up
>as high in the middle part. Is this normal?
>
>Kae & Barney Ellis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
"Kolb-List: archives" (Jun 11, 11:17am)
yak-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com,
glasair-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com
>--------------
>Does any one know if the there is a site that the entire archive could be
>downloaded from, or is that allowed?
>
>Ron
>--------------
Ron,
Go to the following URL and scroll to the bottom of the page. Here you can
download the archives of your choice.
http://www.matronics.com/archives
You can also FTP the same from the following FTP site:
ftp://www.matronics.com/pub/Archives/
Best Regards,
Matt Dralle
List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Question |
Hello Larry,
Here's 2 resources that I know of besides SWAG that offer GEO electronic
ignition systems. The below "pasted" letter is from the first one, their
website has all the specs. They also service the 4 cyl geo engine.:
Subject:
Re: Turbo Suzuki 3cyl
Date:
From:
Bill Moffitt
Organization:
Compass Avionics Incorporated
To:
Richard
References:
1
Hello Richard,
Richard wrote:
> I understand you provide an electronics system that will work with this
> engine. It is a 1988 Chevy Turbo Sprint engine with a Geo Metro head &
> GM Canada Turbo pistons. I'm planning on using stock intercooler, mass
> air/flow sensor & computer. For weight reasons, I eliminated the tunnel
> section between the throtttlebody & intake manifold and am using a
> modified Geo Metro intake manifold. Could you send me info on what you
> offer & pricing? Thank you.
>
> Richard Swiderski
> 2204 SE Lake Weir Rd.
> Ocala, FL 34771
>
> 1-352-622-4064 (Best after 4pm Eastern)
We're currently working with Raven Redrives to adapt our system to the GEO.
All of our info is on our website at http://www.connect.net/compass Let me
know if you don't have a way of viewing web sites. If not, I can mail out
the same info. Our system is a speed-density type which means we do without
the mass air sensor on your engine. The system electonics are fully
redundant. It accomodates turbos and you can customize the fuel and
ignition programs yourself.
I'd love to hear what kind of mods you've done to the intake manifold
I'll try and call Tuesday after 4pm to answer any questions you might have.
--
Bill Moffitt
Principal Engineer
Compass Avionics Incorporated
P.O.Box 747
Rowlett, TX. 75030
http://www.connect.net/compass
The 2nd one is SDS (Simple Digital Systems), they are associated with
Race Tec Engineering & are out of Alberta. I haven't had time to research their
Ph# or email address on the internet yet.
I hope this might provide you with a lead. ...Richard S
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> I'll be using the Geo fuel injection, and crank fired ignition systems on my
> VW engine, a la SWAG. One guy on the list was going to send me some specs
> on a similar system, but never did, even tho' I asked several times after he
> offered. Don't know what happened. Now, with Steve Parkman of SWAG having
> been killed in a crash, I don't know exactly how this is going to work out.
> I DO know, that after all this, come hell or high water, this SOB is
> gonna get done. The extra info would have just made it much simpler is all.
> The engine is built, finally, and looks great. Starting on the final
> engine mounting now. The computer cable is what I had available, for free,
> so I grabbed it. 8 conductor, 26 ga stranded, tinned copper, double
> shielded; such a deal. I did some jerking, tugging, scraping, etc. tests on
> it, and was Very Impressed with the stuff. Also some at the hotel has been
> out in the desert sun for 5 or 6 yrs now, and looks great. Still tough ,
> too. Can't beat that with a stick. Big Lar.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron Hoyt <rrh03105(at)quasar.gd-is.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 1999 8:53 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Electrical Question
>
> >
> > >
> > > On the crank fired
> > >ignition, he recommended 7 1/2 amp brkrs; they draw about 4 amps each.
> >
> > On my 912 the ignition is CDI and wired into the dynamo by Rotax. The
> > wires to the starter are grounds for killing the ignition. There are no
> > fuses in this circuit.
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GOOCHMAC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Kethuan Zepher--Todd thompson |
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP--!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi my name is wayne boyter
I just bought a kolb mark III, I live in ROSEBURG, OR. Does any one know
of some one in this area, That can give me some instruction in it?
I'am a private pilot, It is better to be safe than have a bent airplane.
THANK YOU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question about Camping at Oshkosh Airshow |
>
>Hi,
>
> I am thinking of attending AirVenture 99 by driving there and camping.
> Would you share with me any experience (good or bad) you may have had
> in the last few years by driving to OshKosh and camping? If I arrive on
> the 27th (day before) or 28th (day of start) what are my chances of
> being able to get a camping site at the airshow? Are there other camping
>facilities near oshkosh if airshow is full?
>
I usually camp in the area across the road from the Ultralight area at the
fork in the road. I would recommend that if you have time skip the first
weekend and arrive on Sunday morning or early afternoon. Unless of course
you like going elbow to elbow with a million people on a hot day. Crowds
diminish rapidly after Sunday and you can really get to check out the
aircraft and the displays without a hundred people in front of you.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
To reply to Barny Ellis' question about the false ribs lining up lower
than the regular ribs - This was my experience:
If the false rib is laid upon the top of the main spar tube in its
normal position, it DOES rest lower than the regular ribs, by about a
quarter inch. First, drill and cleco the front end, so that it matches
the other ribs in alignment with the leading edge spar. Now you're
ready to drill the aft part of the false rib. Instead of drilling it
with that false rib touching the TOP of the main spar tube, raise the
back end of the false rib a bit (the portion that extends downward) so
that the top arc matches the other ribs. Notice now, that your false
rib doesn't contact the main spar at the top, but at the AFT side of the
spar tube. Drill & rivet on the back side of the spar tube where this
contact occurs. Hope this helps.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III in New Mexico
( just finished my wings a few months ago - my wing construction
experience is still fresh)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/09/99 |
If you're interested in fuel injection on a two-stroke engine, Hirth now
offers fuel injection on their 2706 65-hp two-cyl two-stroke engine.
Cost for this option I'm told is about $800.
Dennis Kirby
Mk-3 in New Mexico
AWIA wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have any information on fuel injection for the 503? There is a
> reference to Triton Engineering in the archives but have not been able to
> locate them or find any information about fuel injection in 2 strokes.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Carroll" <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mark III dual |
There is an instructor in Cottage Grove who teaches with a Rans S12XL, but might
consider a Kolb taildragger. I think he is
taildragger qualified. In any event, it would be worth a call.
His name is Randy Vyff, and his number is: (541)942-7440
Ron
Independence, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: AJACKS <boyter@pioneer-net.com>
Sent: Friday, June 11, 1999 1:56 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: mark III dual
>
> Hi my name is wayne boyter
>
> I just bought a kolb mark III, I live in ROSEBURG, OR. Does any one know
> of some one in this area, That can give me some instruction in it?
> I'am a private pilot, It is better to be safe than have a bent airplane.
> THANK YOU
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
I have a question and would appreciate any comments. I
>>am installing the top false ribs on my Mk III wing and notice when the
nose
>>of the false rib is properly located on the front spar and the rear of the
>>false rib (main spar end) is properly elevated to match the main rib
height,
>>that the airfoil of the false rib does not match the airfoil of the main
rib
>>in the middle portion. That is to say that the false rib does not arch up
>>as high in the middle part. Is this normal?
>>
>>Kae & Barney Ellis
>
IS THIS BECAUSE THE mkiii HAS 6 " MAIN SPAr and the original fs had a 5"
spar? The false ribs fit on my FSII with a 5" spar without any bending. My
guess is the false rib bending tool was designed for the 5" spar and they
never made a new one for the 6 inch spar.
Ya think? of not?
TOPher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
I agree, the false ribs need to be tweaked. A couple years ago lots of
people on the list griped about this ...seems that Kolb ought to change
their template for making these things as it effects every builder and
costs him/her a significant amount of time to correct the bend. I
understand that there may need to do a little customizing to each plane
anyway, but I think TNKolb could do all builders a favor by changing that
jig to spit out something closer to the desired final shape. BTW, I
don't gripe about much as there is little to gripe about -- this
is just a simple area of possible improvement IMO. Call it construction
criticism. :)
-Ben Ransom
>
>Gentlemen-
>
>I have read the "list" for approximately one year now, and enjoy and value
>much of the input. I have a question and would appreciate any comments. I
>am installing the top false ribs on my Mk III wing and notice when the nose
>of the false rib is properly located on the front spar and the rear of the
>false rib (main spar end) is properly elevated to match the main rib height,
>that the airfoil of the false rib does not match the airfoil of the main rib
>in the middle portion. That is to say that the false rib does not arch up
>as high in the middle part. Is this normal?
>
>Kae & Barney Ellis
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | oops- bent leading edge |
Nice day of flying, but ah shit.
My Firetsr 2 has 130 hours and the first 125 with no damage, in fact the
plane was like new, not so any more. Since moving and not being able to get a
hangar yet I have beenn trailering my plane, lots of trailer rash and today i
did it big time. I have been keepnig in folded in a buddys hangar and trying
not to move 2 airplanes to get mine out today (rent is free and they are
nice) when I was rolling it out with the wings folded I went off an edge of
the concrete and put a nice dent in the leading edges. Really pisses me off
and when flying thats all I can see.
Just a story about flying today. Beside that, I skirted the rain today and
had some nice air time. The area here, outside DC, in Virginia is full of
aviation and one must keep your eyes open a lot, no more country flying in
Louisiana. And man are there a lot of little grass strips to go to.
So I guess at Oshkosh I will talk to Stits about repairing some covering.
Jusr what I want to do on my intensive paintjob.
enough rambling.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: oops- bent leading edge |
Tim,
My FS2 is full of trailer rash. Got the same gouge on leading edge.
What's the best way to repair all those little stits dings?
Bill
FS438
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Mentioned a while back that I had modified the flap handle from stock on
the MKIII.
This evening the Good Lookin' Ol Poop and I went flying for about an hour
and a half,
and in the ultra stable sunset air I got some good numbers.
At 5600 rpm constant and at constant altitude, had the following airspeeds:
Flaps normal, bottom of flap parallel with wing bottom, 62 mph
Flaps drooped 2-3 degrees, 59 mph
Flaps reflexed 2-3 degrees up, 65 mph
In each position, the trim lever was adjusted until everything stabilized
and no stick pressure was required to maintain altitude.
Food for thought
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P 942OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Reflexed flaps |
Hi Richard and Gang:
Very interesting number from you reflexed flap positions. But, in the
interest of the informal performance database I'd appreciate some additional
info (that I am sure you have posted before, but I am too lazy/tired to check
my file or the archives).
Engine?
Prop?
Static RPM, or RPM at normal climb speeds?
Stall speed clean?
Operating weight?
I appreciate the info you post and the above might also be helpful to other
neophytes.
Thanks Richard
Bill George
Mk-3 552, "C" 3:1, Ivo (soon to be Powerfin)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reflexed flaps |
>
>Hi Richard and Gang:
>
>Very interesting number from you reflexed flap positions. But, in the
>interest of the informal performance database I'd appreciate some additional
>info (that I am sure you have posted before, but I am too lazy/tired to check
>my file or the archives).
>
>Engine? /// Rotax 532 with Airscrew Performance CDI///
>Prop? //// Ivo 66" 2-blade ////
>Static RPM, or RPM at normal climb speeds? ///6400 rpm on climbout, 45 mph///
>Stall speed clean? ///solo 28 mph///
>Operating weight? ///empty weight 513, tested with 7 gals fuel , 360 lbs.
people ///
>
>I appreciate the info you post and the above might also be helpful to other
>neophytes.
>
>Thanks Richard ///Fer Shure/// rp, N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Bill George
>Mk-3 552, "C" 3:1, Ivo (soon to be Powerfin)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Re engine Kolb mk3 |
Marco, there is a LOT of info in the archives on putting a 912 on a Mk III.
I'm surprised no one has responded on the List, tho' they may have done so
privately. Where are you located ?? Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Marco Andreani <marcoa(at)aviation.denel.co.za>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 1999 5:51 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: FW: Re engine Kolb mk3
Andreani)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marco Andriani [SMTP:marcoa(at)aviation.denel.co.za]
> Sent: 27 May 1999 01:11
> To: DLSOUDER/KOLB (E-mail)
> Subject: Re engine Kolb mk3
>
> Please can you furnish me with the consequences of installing a rotax 912
> instead of a rotax 582 on my mk3 KOLB.
>
> Mass and cg
> Engine installation.
> Propeller change (I have a 3 blade prop)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Last night I was going through the Contact ! magazine archive looking up
stuff, and thought again of some of the engine questions I've seen on lthe
List. For example, I've seen curiosity about the Honda Gold Wing engine for
planes, and have thought of it myself. Issure 12 has an in-depth article
about a conversion, and it sounds absolutely great. Perfect. Power,
smoothness, price, built in re-drive, etc. So why aren't we seeing them ??
On page 5, we get the answer. The complete engine, ready to fly, without
prop, 80 -90 hp worth, weights a delicate 278 lbs. Wow ! ! ! Try
www.nonprofitnet.com/contac/ When you get it, select "Back Issues
Descriptions and Special Offer." It'll give you an index of each of the 50
issues. When I 1st subscribed, I got jazzed, and ordered all the back
issues, so I have all 50. If you see something of interest, and aren't sure
if you want to buy the issue, let me know, and I'll look in the appropriate
issue and give a synopsis, to let you know if it's worth getting. The
magazine is great.
Yesterday we made another try for Catalina Island, AVX, but from Hemet on
West it was solid overcast, so we diverted to Big Bear, L35, and had a
really excellent Brunch, looking right out on the runway. Be careful if you
go - elevation is 6748 ft., and you WILL learn about density altitude.
Coming from the 100 desert, the 68 pine scented air coming off the lake
was almost sinful. From there we flew to Hi Desert, L80, for a look around,
and found a gem. A real old time character airport, friendly and personal.
On June 26, they're having a big party, and whole pig Bar-B-Que. Think it
starts about noon, but I will be finding out for sure. Sorry I didn't
mention it when you were here today, Doc, but so much was going on, it
slipped my alleged mind. Sure, sure, you guys, I know I was flying a
Cessna, but the trip would have been easily flyable in an ultralight. It's
something like 35 air miles to Big Bear, from there to Hi Desert is about
another 30, then about 20 home, with several alternate airports along the
way, if needed, or wanted. Nice way to spend a day. Next
Sat. at noon, the 19th, is our local ultralight club meeting at Kerr Ranch
in Desert Hot Springs - with a private runway. We have a good crew, but not
enough airplanes yet, so new faces and planes would be more than welcome.
Y'all come. Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Looks like I missed a letter on that address. Should be
www.nonprofitnet.com/contact/
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 1999 10:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Contact
>
> Last night I was going through the Contact ! magazine archive looking up
> stuff, and thought again of some of the engine questions I've seen on lthe
> List. For example, I've seen curiosity about the Honda Gold Wing engine
for
> planes, and have thought of it myself. Issure 12 has an in-depth article
> about a conversion, and it sounds absolutely great. Perfect. Power,
> smoothness, price, built in re-drive, etc. So why aren't we seeing them
??
> On page 5, we get the answer. The complete engine, ready to fly, without
> prop, 80 -90 hp worth, weights a delicate 278 lbs. Wow ! ! ! Try
> www.nonprofitnet.com/contac/ When you get it, select "Back Issues
> Descriptions and Special Offer." It'll give you an index of each of the
50
> issues. When I 1st subscribed, I got jazzed, and ordered all the back
> issues, so I have all 50. If you see something of interest, and aren't
sure
> if you want to buy the issue, let me know, and I'll look in the
appropriate
> issue and give a synopsis, to let you know if it's worth getting. The
> magazine is great.
>
> Yesterday we made another try for Catalina Island, AVX, but from Hemet on
> West it was solid overcast, so we diverted to Big Bear, L35, and had a
> really excellent Brunch, looking right out on the runway. Be careful if
you
> go - elevation is 6748 ft., and you WILL learn about density altitude.
> Coming from the 100 desert, the 68 pine scented air coming off the lake
> was almost sinful. From there we flew to Hi Desert, L80, for a look
around,
> and found a gem. A real old time character airport, friendly and
personal.
> On June 26, they're having a big party, and whole pig Bar-B-Que. Think it
> starts about noon, but I will be finding out for sure. Sorry I didn't
> mention it when you were here today, Doc, but so much was going on, it
> slipped my alleged mind. Sure, sure, you guys, I know I was flying a
> Cessna, but the trip would have been easily flyable in an ultralight.
It's
> something like 35 air miles to Big Bear, from there to Hi Desert is about
> another 30, then about 20 home, with several alternate airports along the
> way, if needed, or wanted. Nice way to spend a day. Next
> Sat. at noon, the 19th, is our local ultralight club meeting at Kerr Ranch
> in Desert Hot Springs - with a private runway. We have a good crew, but
not
> enough airplanes yet, so new faces and planes would be more than welcome.
> Y'all come. Big Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oops- bent leading edge |
Re: Bondo. Try micro-balloons, they make a much lighter (wt) patch and
are quite sandible.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EGGIE511(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/13/99 |
Please unsubscribe me from your list. It is not what I was looking for.
Thanks.
eggie511(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
Since we've been giving up numbers recently and discussing air stats I
thought I'd give an update on my experience - though limited - on flying the
MKIII for whatever worth.
We now have 18.5 hours on the craft and spent a bit more time in xwind
landing & T.Off's.
When the wind finally came around to 90 xwind and I quit after my second
landing. Here are the stats: With two on board, 390 lbs. total at 920, I
couldn't hold a straight in approach at asi 50 with touch down at 45. Wind
was steady 12 gusting to almost 20. We have a line of trees to the right of
the runway and the boil really kicked and bruised us. After the first
landing I thought it was me being a rotten pilot. Second time I knew I was
finished for the day when I bounced after trying to land at 55 figuring for
better rudder authority. The bottom dropped out in turbulence off the trees
from about 5 feet, I went to full throttle and landed about 200 feet down
the runway. My passenger almost panicked because his only experience was in
a 152. He saw the end of the "ruinway" and thought I was going around. We
landed with 250 to spare. Anyway, the moral of the story is that we didn't
bend any gear legs and I now really convinced of the merit of the "Helping
Hand" setup. Without it I'm pretty sure I would be replacing the gear. A
buddy of mine has a GT 500 - may be a 400? - and saw what happened on
landing. He thought we toasted the gear. When we came in he looked and was
so impressed he's going to try a similar setup on his GT. A good learning
day and saved 80 bucks to boot!
Todd Thompson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kenneth Davies <choochoo(at)socencom.net> |
Please unsubscribe me from your list.
Thanks
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
>
> For reference: IVO uses 1" on each side and 12" long pieces
>
> Frank Reynen MKIII@506hrs
Here's a question with an answer that seems to escape my reasoning....
Why does the prop tape only go on the end 12" of the blade??
What about the other 18" or so of each blade? Cant that part also strike
rocks, dirt, water and all the other stuff that falls out of your pockets??
I know its a little thicker as you go towards the center.... but an edge is
a delicate edge no matter where it is.......??? Why don't we tape the
whole edge??
Jon
near Greenbay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Speed is greater the farther out the prop you go. Even tho' the whole thing
may be turning at, say, 2500 rpm, let's say on a 72" prop, a spot 1/2 way
out the blade only has to go around a 36" circle, or about 113". A spot on
the tip has to go around a 72" circle, or about 226", or twice as far,
therefore twice as fast, so anything hitting it, such as a raindrop, will
have far more erosive effect, and the tip will need more protection.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jon Croke <joncroke(at)itol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 1999 8:44 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Silver tape
>
>
> >
> > For reference: IVO uses 1" on each side and 12" long pieces
> >
> > Frank Reynen MKIII@506hrs
>
> Here's a question with an answer that seems to escape my reasoning....
>
> Why does the prop tape only go on the end 12" of the blade??
>
> What about the other 18" or so of each blade? Cant that part also strike
> rocks, dirt, water and all the other stuff that falls out of your
pockets??
> I know its a little thicker as you go towards the center.... but an edge
is
> a delicate edge no matter where it is.......??? Why don't we tape the
> whole edge??
>
> Jon
> near Greenbay
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | hot exhaust & props |
For all you "woody Kolbers" I have a question which I couldn't have asked
prior to actually flying and maintaining our MKIII. Our 2 blade wood prop
clear coat is being permanently blackened by the exhaust of our 582. Are
you guys finding similar results and what can I do to prevent this?
Todd Thompson
Cendant Telecommunications Dept.
Trumbull, CT
203-365-5635
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert L Doebler <bobdoebler(at)juno.com> |
To keep your prop clean, you could quit putting oil in your gas.
No more exhaust, no more engine..no more money etc.
Seriously, I think the easiest thing, is to just wipe off your prop after
every flight.
Bob (Red Baron) Doebler
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
"Thompson, Todd" wrote:
>
Our 2 blade wood prop
> clear coat is being permanently blackened by the exhaust of our 582. Are
> you guys finding similar results and what can I do to prevent this?
*************
Todd and Kolb Gang:
Naturally finished wood props look good, but two stroke
pushers put their mark on them.
Back in '87 I started painting mine flat black. Scuff
sanded with 300 or 400 sand paper after fixing any buggers,
then spray paint with cheap WalMart aerosol spray paint. I
usually added some yellow accent stripes cord-wise on the
tips. Works good. Can use the paint to balance prop.
Covers up all those ugly boo boo's one gets in a wooden prop
with time.
Got a carbon fiber Warp Drive and still painting flat
black. In fact they come from the factory that way.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | hot exhaust & props |
Hi John, luckily I asked to have the prop painted insignia blue with the
clear coat so nobody really notices except me. i'm wondering if in time the
clear coat and paint will bubble or peel off the prop because of the acid
nature or heat of the exhaust. Did you have this peeling experience or just
carbon staining? I can live with the carbon staining.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hauck [mailto:hawk36(at)mindspring.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 1999 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: hot exhaust & props
"Thompson, Todd" wrote:
>
Our 2 blade wood prop
> clear coat is being permanently blackened by the exhaust of our 582. Are
> you guys finding similar results and what can I do to prevent this?
*************
Todd and Kolb Gang:
Naturally finished wood props look good, but two stroke
pushers put their mark on them.
Back in '87 I started painting mine flat black. Scuff
sanded with 300 or 400 sand paper after fixing any buggers,
then spray paint with cheap WalMart aerosol spray paint. I
usually added some yellow accent stripes cord-wise on the
tips. Works good. Can use the paint to balance prop.
Covers up all those ugly boo boo's one gets in a wooden prop
with time.
Got a carbon fiber Warp Drive and still painting flat
black. In fact they come from the factory that way.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
Yep, that's what I'm doing. I wipe off the bug splat at the end of the day.
Bug splat is acidic and because of this I saw the blackening. I painted the
prop insignia blue with yellow tips. It's hard to see the discoloration but
I noticed it last time I cleaned the prop. I'm worried that the blackening
will result in the clear coat and ultimately the paint peeling or bubbling
off over time because of the heat. Any thoughts? Thanks,.
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L Doebler [mailto:bobdoebler(at)juno.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 1999 3:57 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: prop/exhaust
To keep your prop clean, you could quit putting oil in your gas.
No more exhaust, no more engine..no more money etc.
Seriously, I think the easiest thing, is to just wipe off your prop after
every flight.
Bob (Red Baron) Doebler
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
Todd and Kolbers:
The Jim Culver props I flew were shot with clear 2 part
polyurethane. The exhaust eventually stained the urethane
finish, but I don't believe I had the finish peel.
I flew a lot and the result of "stuff" going thru the prop,
either falling off the airplane and engine or being thrown
up by the main wheels. The flat black paint did an
excellent job of covering up these repairs.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Weekend stats |
Hi Todd and Fellow Kolbers:
Good story about the crosswind and difficulty in landing with the spillover
from the trees. That'll get the ol heart workin. Just wondered what the stall
speed is for your bird as that number provides a good reference. In larger
airplanes we used 1.3 times the stall speed in the landing configuration plus
half the wind and all of the gust. I suspect that 1.5 plus the former would
be better for airplanes with not much inertia. I used to have to worry about
floating. Now I have to be concerned about the bottom dropping out....
Bill George
Mk 3, 582 C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
> For all you "woody Kolbers" I have a question which I couldn't have asked
> prior to actually flying and maintaining our MKIII. Our 2 blade wood prop
> clear coat is being permanently blackened by the exhaust of our 582. Are
> you guys finding similar results and what can I do to prevent this?
>
> Todd Thompson
> Cendant Telecommunications Dept.
> Trumbull, CT
> 203-365-5635
>
Todd - I have found that a damp rag after each post flight inspection will take
care of the black soot marks. Make sure your not running too rich, but a quick
wipe down should clean up the prop any ways. The problem I had was nicking the
prop with the rocks off unimproved strips. I was sanding the prop and rebalancing
& refinishing every year - until - I discovered that Hipec Paint is bullet proof.
I haven't needed to do anything to the prop in four years now except rechecking
balance, tracking and prop bolt torque in my regular maintenance checks. I
painted the whole prop yellow to match my aircraft and now people keep asking me
if it is a composite or plastic prop. It is just the original RITZ wood prop that
keeps on ticking.
Hope this helps
Doug Murray - 1990 Kolb FireStar 1 #FS167
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | "bulletproof" paint. |
Doug Murray wrote:
I discovered that Hipec Paint is bullet proof.
I haven't needed to do anything to the prop in four years now except rechecking
balance, tracking and prop bolt torque in my regular maintenance checks.
Doug, can you please supply the full name and model number(s) of the Hipec
bulletproof paint.?
Thanks, jim.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "bulletproof" paint. |
> Doug Murray wrote:
> I discovered that Hipec Paint is bullet proof.
> I haven't needed to do anything to the prop in four years now except rechecking
> balance, tracking and prop bolt torque in my regular maintenance checks.
>
> Doug, can you please supply the full name and model number(s) of the Hipec
> bulletproof paint.?
> Thanks, jim.
>
Jim - This paint can be found at -- Falconair Avia, 7739 - 81- Ave., Edmonton,
Alberta, Canada. T6C 0V4
E-mail them at < falconair(at)tic.ab.ca > They ship UPS from Montana - no customs.
Hope this helps.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
Kolb gang
I got a problem with spark plugs I have the right ones for the 912
problem is I pulled them today and they are real BLACK sutty and a tad
wet I have not had it in the air yet all test are on the ground what do
you think I need to do to get the plugs right color range and to get the
sutt off. temp are all in range. idle is in 1400 /1500 rpm range gap
is 28 thousand the engine starts good and is responsive to power changes
. what do I need to do? I will try to get the Mk. III with the 912 on
it in the air this week if I can get plug problem fixed .
Rick Libersat
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
Rick,
I had the same problem 2 weeks ago with my 912, it has 2.6 hours flying time.
I made a call to Lockwood here in Florida. They said to raise the midrange
jet one notch, to make the engine run more lean. The needle has 4 notches,
and the factory sets them at the 3rd notch. My EGT's were running 1000 to
1100, so it was running cool. I put 2 more hours on it and the EGT's went up
to 1350, but I have not had a chance to look at the plugs yet. I'll let you
know this weekend.
Rich Bragassa
Mk lll N8160Z
Miami, Fl
lrb1476(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
Rick
Sounds like it could be a little rich and you can adjust the needle height like
the 2 stroke carbs. But before you do, I would tie it down good and run the
engine at 4800 rpm to simulate normal flying for maybe 30 minutes and that might
not be long enough. You need to get temps up to get a true reading from the
plugs. Your idle speed might be a little slow also. I just slowed mine down to
1800 rpm.
Terry
rick106(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Kolb gang
> I got a problem with spark plugs I have the right ones for the 912
> problem is I pulled them today and they are real BLACK sutty and a tad
> wet I have not had it in the air yet all test are on the ground what do
> you think I need to do to get the plugs right color range and to get the
> sutt off. temp are all in range. idle is in 1400 /1500 rpm range gap
> is 28 thousand the engine starts good and is responsive to power changes
> . what do I need to do? I will try to get the Mk. III with the 912 on
> it in the air this week if I can get plug problem fixed .
>
> Rick Libersat
>
> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
>Kolb gang
>I got a problem with spark plugs I have the right ones for the 912
>problem is I pulled them today and they are real BLACK sutty and a tad
>wet I have not had it in the air yet all test are on the ground what do
>. what do I need to do? I will try to get the Mk. III with the 912 on
>it in the air this week if I can get plug problem fixed .
>
>Rick Libersat
****************************
Rick and Kolbers:
Very difficult to get a good plug reading, especially in a static
situation. Don't change spark plugs even if you can get a different range
in the odd ball size we run in the 912. Unless the engine is run hard
under load at a good operating temp, the plugs will show black, sooty
condition. Not to be alarmed, it is most likely ok. Insure carbs are in
sync and adjusted to normal specs that they are delivered with. I think
you will be ok, especially if it is running good.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: 912 oil temps |
John Hauck and others,
Thanks for that advice to look in the oilcan cap for moisture present. That
way I can tell if the temps in the oilcan are high enough to vent any
moisture which, if left in, will wear the engine out prematurely. Rotax
even put out a service bulletin on this in July 1996. This seems to be the
reason to keep close control on the oil temp and this brings me to the
following question; If the temp in the oilcan are the most important temps
for the oilcircuit and engine lubrication to function properly and to
reduce engine wear, why is Rotax not requiring to monitor the oilcan
temperature directly rather than monitor and control it after it has gone
through a cooler and oilpump and where it may or may not tell what is going
on in the oilcan. It is very easy to switch this sensor to the bottom of
the oilcan as part of the drainplug assy.
Frank Reynen MKIII@506 hrs
Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi John,
> I initially did not install an oilcooler for my 912 and oiltemps went up
to
> 280 degrs on climbs and I had to abort and go home after 1/2 hrs flying
> time as the temps continued to stay high. The oil temp is measured by EIS
> at the exit of the oilpump with the standard Rotax sender.
> I installed an oilcooler and now the temps go to 240 after max climb rate
> to 5000 ft. Sofar OK. During cruise at low rpm of about 4200 and 50 mph
> ASI, and which I do a lot, the oiltemp now runs 175-185 F which is too
low.
> The intructions manual says to maintain a oiltemp of at least 190 F (at
the
> oilpump exit) to evaporate the condensate off in the oilcan which I
> suspect is much hotter than 190 F since this is measured AFTER the oil
has
> gone through the oilcooler that according to my numbers drops the
oiltemps
> by at least 40 degrs which computes to a oilcan temp of about 230 F.
> If I blank off part of the oilcooler to bring the temp up to 210 F during
> cruise at 50 mph, I cannot climb at full rate for more than a few minutes
> before I hit the max limit again. It almost looks like a no win situation
> unless a variable air deflector is used on the oilcooler to control the
> narrow range of oil temperatures allowed by Rotax.
>
> Any thoughts on this one besides always flying fast?
>
> Frank
>
>
*******************************
Hi Frank:
If you are still running 80/20 antifreeze mix, you can
reduce cyl head temps by 30+ degrees F by running 50/50. In
the winter I run 100% to get the temps up and bypass my oil
cooler.
My normal temps at 5000 rpm are 210 and 210, right in the
middle of the green arc.
My 912 is propped to turn 5500 to 5600 rpm WOT straight and
level flight. This gives me about 5300 rpm wot climb at 60
to 65 mph.
If you have the engine bogged down with too much pitch in
prop, this can lead to high operating temps. The eng runs
much warmer at 5000 and above than it does below 5000 rpm.
I don't think you will have a problem running slower rpm if
you counter it with some good hard running to burn off
moisture in oil. Check the inside of the oil tank cap after
flying. If it is milky looking, better fly it hotter and
harder. If not, you are probably doing ok.
If I can help, let me know. I'll do my best.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 oil temps |
Hi Frank: Quite a few specialty auto suppliers have thermostatically
controlled by-passes that will by-pass the cooler until temperature is high
enough. Bugpack Products at 714-979-4990, and CB Performance at
209-733-8222, both offer a unit that mounts right in the oil lines, but will
still allow full flow through the remote filter. CB is in Farmersville, CA,
which is what, 100 miles or so from you ?? Sorry, I don't have prices, but
you can bet one of those units will be going on " Vamoose."
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 1999 10:41 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 912 oil temps
>
>
> John Hauck and others,
> Thanks for that advice to look in the oilcan cap for moisture present.
That
> way I can tell if the temps in the oilcan are high enough to vent any
> moisture which, if left in, will wear the engine out prematurely. Rotax
> even put out a service bulletin on this in July 1996. This seems to be the
> reason to keep close control on the oil temp and this brings me to the
> following question; If the temp in the oilcan are the most important temps
> for the oilcircuit and engine lubrication to function properly and to
> reduce engine wear, why is Rotax not requiring to monitor the oilcan
> temperature directly rather than monitor and control it after it has gone
> through a cooler and oilpump and where it may or may not tell what is
going
> on in the oilcan. It is very easy to switch this sensor to the bottom of
> the oilcan as part of the drainplug assy.
>
> Frank Reynen MKIII@506 hrs
>
>
> Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi John,
> > I initially did not install an oilcooler for my 912 and oiltemps went up
> to
> > 280 degrs on climbs and I had to abort and go home after 1/2 hrs flying
> > time as the temps continued to stay high. The oil temp is measured by
EIS
> > at the exit of the oilpump with the standard Rotax sender.
> > I installed an oilcooler and now the temps go to 240 after max climb
rate
> > to 5000 ft. Sofar OK. During cruise at low rpm of about 4200 and 50 mph
> > ASI, and which I do a lot, the oiltemp now runs 175-185 F which is too
> low.
> > The intructions manual says to maintain a oiltemp of at least 190 F (at
> the
> > oilpump exit) to evaporate the condensate off in the oilcan which I
> > suspect is much hotter than 190 F since this is measured AFTER the oil
> has
> > gone through the oilcooler that according to my numbers drops the
> oiltemps
> > by at least 40 degrs which computes to a oilcan temp of about 230 F.
> > If I blank off part of the oilcooler to bring the temp up to 210 F
during
> > cruise at 50 mph, I cannot climb at full rate for more than a few
minutes
> > before I hit the max limit again. It almost looks like a no win
situation
> > unless a variable air deflector is used on the oilcooler to control the
> > narrow range of oil temperatures allowed by Rotax.
> >
> > Any thoughts on this one besides always flying fast?
> >
> > Frank
> >
> >
>
> *******************************
>
> Hi Frank:
>
>
> If you are still running 80/20 antifreeze mix, you can
> reduce cyl head temps by 30+ degrees F by running 50/50. In
> the winter I run 100% to get the temps up and bypass my oil
> cooler.
>
> My normal temps at 5000 rpm are 210 and 210, right in the
> middle of the green arc.
>
> My 912 is propped to turn 5500 to 5600 rpm WOT straight and
> level flight. This gives me about 5300 rpm wot climb at 60
> to 65 mph.
>
> If you have the engine bogged down with too much pitch in
> prop, this can lead to high operating temps. The eng runs
> much warmer at 5000 and above than it does below 5000 rpm.
> I don't think you will have a problem running slower rpm if
> you counter it with some good hard running to burn off
> moisture in oil. Check the inside of the oil tank cap after
> flying. If it is milky looking, better fly it hotter and
> harder. If not, you are probably doing ok.
>
> If I can help, let me know. I'll do my best.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
Terry
I have not looked at the needle yet but I will in the morning I will
raise the clip one knoch,I have the idle at 1500/1490 rpm I may have the
idle too low like you said the temp are good and the cht is good so I am
hopeing that it is just the needle do you know what your static RPM was
,and what dose your EGT/CHT and what dose your oil temp.come up to. I
hope to get my M/3 back in the air this weekend I had the FAA come out to
inspect it tuesday and I got my new airworthiness cirt. so the only thing
now is the too rich thing I hope ..Good luck on your get together hope
the weather is good for you. I will let you know how it goes . ( thanks
for the help)
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>Rick
>
>Sounds like it could be a little rich and you can adjust the needle
>height like
>the 2 stroke carbs. But before you do, I would tie it down good and
>run the
>engine at 4800 rpm to simulate normal flying for maybe 30 minutes and
>that might
>not be long enough. You need to get temps up to get a true reading
>from the
>plugs. Your idle speed might be a little slow also. I just slowed
>mine down to
>1800 rpm.
>
>Terry
>
>rick106(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Kolb gang
>> I got a problem with spark plugs I have the right ones for the 912
>> problem is I pulled them today and they are real BLACK sutty and a
>tad
>> wet I have not had it in the air yet all test are on the ground
>what do
>> you think I need to do to get the plugs right color range and to
>get the
>> sutt off. temp are all in range. idle is in 1400 /1500 rpm range
>gap
>> is 28 thousand the engine starts good and is responsive to power
>changes
>> . what do I need to do? I will try to get the Mk. III with the 912
>on
>> it in the air this week if I can get plug problem fixed .
>>
>> Rick Libersat
>>
>> Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>> Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
>> Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
John
I called Ronnie at Miss. light aircraft and got a set of the same plugs
that it came with nothing different in the plugs other than being new I
will raise the clip on the needle one koch your plugs caint look like
these I can not even see the white porslen it is black velvet looking
Terry Swartz told me that his idle RPM is higher than mine so I will
raise mine a tad how did you tune your carb.to get them to be the same ?
if I get this black plug thing straight I will take her up this weekend I
got the airworthiness cirt for the engine change Tuesday ,15 th.
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
> >Kolb gang
>>I got a problem with spark plugs I have the right ones for the 912
>>problem is I pulled them today and they are real BLACK sutty and a
>tad
>>wet I have not had it in the air yet all test are on the ground what
>do
>
>
>>. what do I need to do? I will try to get the Mk. III with the 912
>on
>>it in the air this week if I can get plug problem fixed .
>>
>>Rick Libersat
>
>****************************
>
>Rick and Kolbers:
>
>Very difficult to get a good plug reading, especially in a static
>situation. Don't change spark plugs even if you can get a different
>range
>in the odd ball size we run in the 912. Unless the engine is run
>hard
>under load at a good operating temp, the plugs will show black, sooty
>condition. Not to be alarmed, it is most likely ok. Insure carbs are
>in
>sync and adjusted to normal specs that they are delivered with. I
>think
>you will be ok, especially if it is running good.
>
>john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
Rich
In the morning I will look at the neddle to see where the clip is I have
a felling that it is an air mixture problem .The only thing that is got
me baffled is that my EGT & CHT are ok but I will raise the needle and I
will keep you posted on what happens thanks for the help,I need all I can
get
Rick Libersat
>
>Rick,
>
>I had the same problem 2 weeks ago with my 912, it has 2.6 hours
>flying time.
>I made a call to Lockwood here in Florida. They said to raise the
>midrange
>jet one notch, to make the engine run more lean. The needle has 4
>notches,
>and the factory sets them at the 3rd notch. My EGT's were running 1000
>to
>1100, so it was running cool. I put 2 more hours on it and the EGT's
>went up
>to 1350, but I have not had a chance to look at the plugs yet. I'll
>let you
>know this weekend.
>
>Rich Bragassa
>Mk lll N8160Z
>Miami, Fl
>lrb1476(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
"Kolb Builders" ,
"Dave Thomas" , "Danny Day" ,
"Buddy Carilse" ,
"Bob Moorehead" , "ASC2"
| Subject: | Fw: 2000 Annual Meeting and Air Sports Expo |
----- Original Message -----
From: <USUAHQ(at)aol.com>
; ; ;
; ; ;
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 1999 3:18 PM
Subject: 2000 Annual Meeting and Air Sports Expo
> To: Regional Representatives and Board Of Directors,
>
>
> SUBJECT: 2000 USUA Annual Meeting and Air Sports Expo
> Albuquerque, NM March 15-19, 2000
>
> In response to the recommendations of the Regional Representatives at
> Knoxville and follow-on direction by the Board of Directors, I am
submitting
> a proposed top level agenda for our Y2K Annual Meeting and Awards Ceremony
> for your comments and concurrance.
>
> As requested by the Regional Representatives, USUA intends to sponsor an
> organizational exhibit and forums in addition to conducting the annual
> meeting and awards ceremony. Our objective is to plan the agenda in such
a
> way that essential association business gets completed, and at the same
time,
> will afford our members and representatives an opportunity to participate
> substantially in the Air Sports Expo '00 exhibits, forums, and related
> activities.
>
> PROPOSED AGENDA:
>
> Wed, March 15th - Exhibit and meeting room setup
>
> Thurs, March 16th
>
> 9:00am - 6:00pm - USUA exhibit open
> 9:00 am - 12:00pm Regional Representative Meeting
> 12:00 - 1:30 pm - Moody Award Selection (Closed)
> 2:00 - 4:00 pm - USUA sponsored forums
>
> Friday, March 17th
>
> 9:00am - 6:00pm - USUA exhibit open
> 9:00 am - 12:00pm Membership Meeting
> USUA Report
> Regional Representatives Report and Recommendations
> 2:00 - 4:00 pm - USUA sponsored forums
>
>
> Saturday, March 18th
>
> 9:00am - 6:00pm - USUA exhibit open
> 10:00am - 4:00pm - USUA sponsored forums
> 7:30pm - USUA Awards Ceremony
>
> Sunday, March 19th
>
> 9:00am - 5:00pm - USUA BFI/AFI Seminars
> 9:00am - Exhibit tear-down
>
> Additional Comments and Key Dates:
>
> 1. USUA Business Agenda:
>
> Each Regional Representative is asked to prepare business items for
> discussion and recommendations in advance of the meeting. These issues
> should focus on those of 'national or multi-regional importance'. Each
> representative is asked that, in addition to submitting important issues
for
> discussion and vote, they provide clear and concise recommendations for
other
> representatives to consider and edit. Suspense for meeting agenda items
is
> January 15th, 2000. This permits USUA and all regional representatives to
> discuss and prioritize the agenda items in advance of the meeting and
allows
> sufficient time to prepare the meeting program. In this fashion,
> recommendations will have been written and agreed to by Representatives
> before the meeting begins.
>
> 2. Award Nominations.
>
> Regional Representatives are encouraged to solicit and submit
> nominations for the 2000 Moody award. Nominations must be received at
USUA
> headquarters not later than December 31, 1999. All nominations received
> after that date will not be considered.
>
> Please review the above proposed schedule and provide your comments.
> Increased involvement in the Air Sports Expo event will demand a higher
level
> of pre-meeting planning and preparation on the part of everyone if our
annual
> meeting is to be successful.
>
> I need your comments and suggestions by Wednesday, June 23rd so that I may
> complete initial coordination with the SSA host club in a timely manner to
> support their schedule. Please respond by e-mail and/or FAX.
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Larry Johnson
> Conventions/Exhibits
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
rick106(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> Rich
> In the morning I will look at the neddle to see where the clip is I have
> a felling that it is an air mixture problem .The only thing that is got
> me baffled is that my EGT & CHT are ok but I will raise the needle and I
> will keep you posted on what happens thanks for the help,I need all I can
> get
>
> Rick Libersat
**********************
Rick:
Raising fuel needle will increase/enrich mixture. Lowering
fuel needle will lean it out.
I think you missed my last reply to your question ref spark
plug color. It is very difficult to get a good color
reading on 912 spark plugs running the engine in the static
position. Intake and cyl head temp need to be high, at
least 180F for cyl head and oil temp 190 to 230F. This is
hard to get when aircraft if tied down.
On my engine, in an environment very similar to yours in
Beaumont, with a very open exhaust, fuel needle in the
"whatever position" that the engine is shipped, runs great
except from 3800 to about 4200 rpm. In this area I
experience a lean condition, but I don't fly those speeds.
I cruise 5000 and above.
I have each float bowl vent tube inserted in the rear of
their respective air cleaners. Am using flat 6 inch k&N's.
Works great. With conical K&N's I Siamese the vent line
between carbs, then drill 1/8 inch holes in the vent tube
both horizontal and vertical. That system worked well also.
When the temps get down in the 50s and below, then I raise
the fuel needle one notch because the lean area 3800-4200
gets real rough if I don't enrichen midrange. 912 carb
operates same as 2 stroke carb. Idle and a little above
controlled by idle jet, midrange to about 75% power fuel
needle and jet, and from there to full throttle the main
jet.
If you want to check plugs in static position, run engine
several minutes at rpm desired, if cruise recommend at least
5000. Don't touch that throttle and hit the kill switch to
shut down the engine. Then read all the plugs. Again, if
intake and cyl head temps don't get on up there "hot", even
with a correctly jetted carb you will get sooty/wet plugs
cause the fuel is not atomizing as it should for a good
burn.
For me and my engine: If it is running good, I leave it
alone, fly and enjoy. It is very easy to get wrapped around
the axle trying to get instruments and operation to come to
the results we think they should be. I have been down that
road before. Very easily drive one nuts. ;-)
john h (getting ready to fly back to Texas for the Lake
Texoma Flyin the end of the month. See ya'll there)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
Rick Libersat
You should balance or synchronize your carb's if you have not already.
The best way is to get about 8 ft of clear line that will fit the small
fittings under the carb's where the carb's mount to the intake
manifold. Remove the small screw in the fitting, put a couple feet of
water in the clear line and attach each end of the clear line to the
fittings in the carb's. The idea is to see which carb creates the most
vacuum and you can see this by which way the water is drawn and balance
accordingly. I heard of one that was so bad it sucked the water out of
the tube. You will need to balance the idle stops and throttle cables
so the carb's are balanced at idle and at settings other then idle.
Take the wings off and tie it down so you can make the adjustments and
stay away from the prop. Have fun flying. Remember your now flying a 4
stroke, so temps and the likely hood of spark plug fouling are not
nearly as critical. I think I would test fly it before I would make
needle adjustments. You need to get that 4 stroke warmed up.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Adrio Taucer <adrio(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: carb balance |
There is an inexpensive tool available to do this balancing. I have an old
British car with two SU carburetors which need to be balanced and I find this
tool very useful. It has no water to spill and can be clipped on to a
convenient spot for hands free operation. If you check with one of the mail
order places that sell parts for British sports cars I am sure you will find it.
If you are interested you could try either:
http://www.mossmotors.com/
http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/
Adrio
Terry Swartz wrote:
>
> Rick Libersat
>
> You should balance or synchronize your carb's if you have not already.
> The best way is to get about 8 ft of clear line that will fit the small
> fittings under the carb's where the carb's mount to the intake
> manifold. Remove the small screw in the fitting, put a couple feet of
> water in the clear line and attach each end of the clear line to the
> fittings in the carb's. The idea is to see which carb creates the most
> vacuum and you can see this by which way the water is drawn and balance
> accordingly. I heard of one that was so bad it sucked the water out of
> the tube. You will need to balance the idle stops and throttle cables
> so the carb's are balanced at idle and at settings other then idle.
> Take the wings off and tie it down so you can make the adjustments and
> stay away from the prop. Have fun flying. Remember your now flying a 4
> stroke, so temps and the likely hood of spark plug fouling are not
> nearly as critical. I think I would test fly it before I would make
> needle adjustments. You need to get that 4 stroke warmed up.
>
> Terry
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: carb balance |
You can also try any motorcycle shop. They will have Carb Stix, which
has 2~4 tubes of mercury and hose to connect to the carbs. It's been a long
time, but I would guess that they're close to the same price as what I saw
on the links below.
BTW, I got to fly my first Kolb MK III last night. If you remember a
couple of weeks ago, our club president has the use of a MK III for a year.
You guys aren't kidding about the climb rate. Impressive. After a few
T&Gs, I loaded up our 300 lb prez and took him around the patch. Still
managed 500fpm climb.
All in all, I like the plane.
J.D. Stewart
NCF Communications, Inc.
http://www.ncfcomm.com
UltraFun Airsports
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
Challenger Owners e-mail list administrator
http://challenger.maverick.net
Northeast Nebraska Flying Club
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc
ICQ # 22494032
>
>There is an inexpensive tool available to do this balancing. I have an old
>British car with two SU carburetors which need to be balanced and I find
this
>tool very useful. It has no water to spill and can be clipped on to a
>convenient spot for hands free operation. If you check with one of the mail
>order places that sell parts for British sports cars I am sure you will
find it.
>
>If you are interested you could try either:
>http://www.mossmotors.com/
>http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/
>
>Adrio
>
>Terry Swartz wrote:
>
>>
>> Rick Libersat
>>
>> You should balance or synchronize your carb's if you have not already.
>> The best way is to get about 8 ft of clear line that will fit the small
>> fittings under the carb's where the carb's mount to the intake
>> manifold. Remove the small screw in the fitting, put a couple feet of
>> water in the clear line and attach each end of the clear line to the
>> fittings in the carb's. The idea is to see which carb creates the most
>> vacuum and you can see this by which way the water is drawn and balance
>> accordingly. I heard of one that was so bad it sucked the water out of
>> the tube. You will need to balance the idle stops and throttle cables
>> so the carb's are balanced at idle and at settings other then idle.
>> Take the wings off and tie it down so you can make the adjustments and
>> stay away from the prop. Have fun flying. Remember your now flying a 4
>> stroke, so temps and the likely hood of spark plug fouling are not
>> nearly as critical. I think I would test fly it before I would make
>> needle adjustments. You need to get that 4 stroke warmed up.
>>
>> Terry
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Eng. Hi-power run-up |
In a message dated 6/18/99 8:10:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
d-watson(at)erols.com writes:
<< So, moving on, would someone on the list tell me the best way to tie down
my Firestar so that I might do a good static run up of the engine. I would >>
Dennis, I tied a 5/8" nylon rope to the tailwheel [didn't want to mar the
boom paint] and the other end to the bottom of a telephone pole-there was
about 8' between them.
At near full throttle the tail will come up; I consider this an advantage as
I was able to get a feel for how the elevator responded. When you throttle
back just do it slowly so the tail doesn't drop quickly & bend something.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Frank R please tell us more about going with the 912 |
Frank I know you had about 400 hours or so on your 2 stroke powered
MKIII, please let us know your first impressions of the 912
installation. How much heavier is your plane now? What is take off,
climb, cruise performance like? Sorry for grilling you, but I still
have not really settled on an engine yet and would like to know if going
into debt for the 912 would be worth it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: carb balance |
Adrio
Thanks I will check it out I think that I may only have a air /fuel
mixture problem and with this ballancer it should fix it
Rick Libersat
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: carb balance |
Terry
Sounds good to me I have the clear line here and I will hook it up and
see what I can do with it . Thanks
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>Rick Libersat
>
>You should balance or synchronize your carb's if you have not already.
>The best way is to get about 8 ft of clear line that will fit the
>small
>fittings under the carb's where the carb's mount to the intake
>manifold. Remove the small screw in the fitting, put a couple feet of
>water in the clear line and attach each end of the clear line to the
>fittings in the carb's. The idea is to see which carb creates the
>most
>vacuum and you can see this by which way the water is drawn and
>balance
>accordingly. I heard of one that was so bad it sucked the water out
>of
>the tube. You will need to balance the idle stops and throttle
>cables
>so the carb's are balanced at idle and at settings other then idle.
>Take the wings off and tie it down so you can make the adjustments and
>stay away from the prop. Have fun flying. Remember your now flying a
>4
>stroke, so temps and the likely hood of spark plug fouling are not
>nearly as critical. I think I would test fly it before I would make
>needle adjustments. You need to get that 4 stroke warmed up.
>
>Terry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
John
gotcha you know at this stage changing the 582 to a 912 and all the other
stuff you have to do. And when this mess comes up with the plugs it real
hard not to just say I got the engine on and all now lets go fly .You
are probley right it ,no you are right it is driving me nutts I want to
get in the air so bad but I know I got to make a stab at getting the
color at least so I can see the porslume .The FAA stuck me with 40 hr fly
off time but he told me to keep in touch with him so I need to get some
time in and in a hurry.
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>
>rick106(at)juno.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> Rich
>> In the morning I will look at the neddle to see where the clip is I
>have
>> a felling that it is an air mixture problem .The only thing that is
>got
>> me baffled is that my EGT & CHT are ok but I will raise the needle
>and I
>> will keep you posted on what happens thanks for the help,I need all
>I can
>> get
>>
>> Rick Libersat
>
>
>**********************
>
>Rick:
>
>Raising fuel needle will increase/enrich mixture. Lowering
>fuel needle will lean it out.
>
>I think you missed my last reply to your question ref spark
>plug color. It is very difficult to get a good color
>reading on 912 spark plugs running the engine in the static
>position. Intake and cyl head temp need to be high, at
>least 180F for cyl head and oil temp 190 to 230F. This is
>hard to get when aircraft if tied down.
>
>On my engine, in an environment very similar to yours in
>Beaumont, with a very open exhaust, fuel needle in the
>"whatever position" that the engine is shipped, runs great
>except from 3800 to about 4200 rpm. In this area I
>experience a lean condition, but I don't fly those speeds.
>I cruise 5000 and above.
>
>I have each float bowl vent tube inserted in the rear of
>their respective air cleaners. Am using flat 6 inch k&N's.
>Works great. With conical K&N's I Siamese the vent line
>between carbs, then drill 1/8 inch holes in the vent tube
>both horizontal and vertical. That system worked well also.
>
>When the temps get down in the 50s and below, then I raise
>the fuel needle one notch because the lean area 3800-4200
>gets real rough if I don't enrichen midrange. 912 carb
>operates same as 2 stroke carb. Idle and a little above
>controlled by idle jet, midrange to about 75% power fuel
>needle and jet, and from there to full throttle the main
>jet.
>
>If you want to check plugs in static position, run engine
>several minutes at rpm desired, if cruise recommend at least
>5000. Don't touch that throttle and hit the kill switch to
>shut down the engine. Then read all the plugs. Again, if
>intake and cyl head temps don't get on up there "hot", even
>with a correctly jetted carb you will get sooty/wet plugs
>cause the fuel is not atomizing as it should for a good
>burn.
>
>For me and my engine: If it is running good, I leave it
>alone, fly and enjoy. It is very easy to get wrapped around
>the axle trying to get instruments and operation to come to
>the results we think they should be. I have been down that
>road before. Very easily drive one nuts. ;-)
>
>john h (getting ready to fly back to Texas for the Lake
>Texoma Flyin the end of the month. See ya'll there)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: carb balance |
J D
I think I will try the clear hose thing with water if I don't get good
results off to the motorcycle shop I go. Glad you got your M/3 I know
that you will be pleased with it I know that with the 582 that I had on
mine it did a great job ! now I will see what this 912 can do . Good luck
and keep your speed up.
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
> You can also try any motorcycle shop. They will have Carb Stix,
>which
>has 2~4 tubes of mercury and hose to connect to the carbs. It's been
>a long
>time, but I would guess that they're close to the same price as what I
>saw
>on the links below.
> BTW, I got to fly my first Kolb MK III last night. If you
>remember a
>couple of weeks ago, our club president has the use of a MK III for a
>year.
>You guys aren't kidding about the climb rate. Impressive. After a
>few
>T&Gs, I loaded up our 300 lb prez and took him around the patch.
>Still
>managed 500fpm climb.
> All in all, I like the plane.
>
>J.D. Stewart
>NCF Communications, Inc.
>http://www.ncfcomm.com
>UltraFun Airsports
>http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
>Challenger Owners e-mail list administrator
>http://challenger.maverick.net
>Northeast Nebraska Flying Club
>http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc
>ICQ # 22494032
>>
>>There is an inexpensive tool available to do this balancing. I have
>an old
>>British car with two SU carburetors which need to be balanced and I
>find
>this
>>tool very useful. It has no water to spill and can be clipped on to
>a
>>convenient spot for hands free operation. If you check with one of
>the mail
>>order places that sell parts for British sports cars I am sure you
>will
>find it.
>>
>>If you are interested you could try either:
>>http://www.mossmotors.com/
>>http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/
>>
>>Adrio
>>
>>Terry Swartz wrote:
>>
>
>>>
>>> Rick Libersat
>>>
>>> You should balance or synchronize your carb's if you have not
>already.
>>> The best way is to get about 8 ft of clear line that will fit the
>small
>>> fittings under the carb's where the carb's mount to the intake
>>> manifold. Remove the small screw in the fitting, put a couple feet
>of
>>> water in the clear line and attach each end of the clear line to
>the
>>> fittings in the carb's. The idea is to see which carb creates the
>most
>>> vacuum and you can see this by which way the water is drawn and
>balance
>>> accordingly. I heard of one that was so bad it sucked the water
>out of
>>> the tube. You will need to balance the idle stops and throttle
>cables
>>> so the carb's are balanced at idle and at settings other then idle.
>>> Take the wings off and tie it down so you can make the adjustments
>and
>>> stay away from the prop. Have fun flying. Remember your now
>flying a 4
>>> stroke, so temps and the likely hood of spark plug fouling are not
>>> nearly as critical. I think I would test fly it before I would
>make
>>> needle adjustments. You need to get that 4 stroke warmed up.
>>>
>>> Terry
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eng. Hi-power run-up |
Dennis Watson wrote:
>
>
> So, moving on, would someone on the list tell me the best way to tie
> down
> my Firestar so that I might do a good static run up of the engine. I
> would
> like to go to full power this weekend. Should I use my tow strap
> somehow
> wrapped around the boom or what???
> Dennis
Hello Dennis;
Although I have a MKIII:
My method for this is easy and simple. I went to my local "Home Depot"
and bought a 100' nylon line (3/4" thk). I secured it to the tube
(inside the tail boom) you mount the folded wings to. I secured the
other end to the hitch of my pick-up, behind the plane. I utilized the
parking brake, just in case of excess power, and proceeded to rev it
up...
This tube is 4130, so you won't break it...
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <d-watson(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Hi Pwr Eng. Run-up |
Thanks to all for the quick response on the tie down question. I'm sure I
will be able to do it safely armed with the information provided from the
list. --- You guys must be having a slow day at work also.
Dennis
P.S. Just thought a few more questions, can anyone give me some ball park
figures I should expect in regards to temps and RPM's?? I'm running a 503
DCDI, 2 blade Warp Drive Prop.......Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: carb balance |
Adrio Taucer wrote:
> There is an inexpensive tool available to do this balancing. I have an old
> British car with two SU carburetors which need to be balanced and I find this
> tool very useful. It has no water to spill and can be clipped on to a
> convenient spot for hands free operation. If you check with one of the mail
> order places that sell parts for British sports cars I am sure you will find
it.
>
> If you are interested you could try either:
> http://www.mossmotors.com/
> http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/
>
> Adrio
>
Adrio - This tool is called a Uni-Syn. It has an adjustable venturi and a flow
guage
to one side of the venturi. It is very easy to use and very accurate. I found mine
at a snowmobile -ROTAX - dealership. I think that LEAF - Leading Edge Air Foils
has
them too for about $35.00
Doug Murray Firestar FS167
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: hot exhaust & props |
Need information.
Does any one have an Angle of Attack indicator on their Kolb?
Any feedback on a company called Riteangle? They sell an AOA
kit for ultra lights.
Kelp appreciated.
Bill
FS438
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Frank R please tell us more about going with the |
912
Frank I know you had about 400 hours or so on your 2 stroke powered
MKIII, please let us know your first impressions of the 912
installation. How much heavier is your plane now?
It changed the character and handling of the plane to more of a G/A
aircraft(Cessna150) than I expected but cannot explain it. Maybe the
difference in engine sounds and slight increase in weight but it definitely
feels no longer the same plane!
The weight difference between the 582C and 912 installed complete with all
peripheral equipment and fluids comes to about 32 lbs and a total empty
weight of 600 lbs incl straight(no whls)Full Lotus floats which is the way
I fly the MKIII most of the time. With 16 Gall tanks full with amphib
wheels and 170# passenger, I will be at 1082# gross take off weight.
What is take off,climb, cruise performance like?
Not noticably different sofar but I have not completely tuned the prop
pitch and flying solo. I see some improvement in the climb rate above 3000
ft ASL where the 65hp 582 was beginning to show its lack of power before
with full gross weight and Full Lotus floats attached. Stall behaviour with
engine idle is slightly more abrupt with a noticable break and about 2MPH
higher@ 38 IAS. With power added (3000rpm) with half ,full and without
flaps it is the same as before at 32 and 30 and 35 IAS respectively. Have
not simulated full power departure type stalls yet.
I have not kept track of the fuel consumption since I had other problems to
solve such as coolant and oil temps and and EIS readouts of erroneous EGT,s
etc.
I have now cleared up most of the problems of gauges and temps and will
have time to start looking more closely at performance difference.
Sorry for grilling you, but I still
have not really settled on an engine yet and would like to know if going
into debt for the 912 would be worth it.
It depends on your priorities.
The main value for me is in the increased reliability and the longer
service time expected between downtime for maintenance. I also expect the
MKIII to still outlast the engine as I have had very little maintenance on
it sofar(500 hrs). The power increase was secondary because of expected
performance offset due to the weight increase. I find myself wanting to fly
much more now than before and I do not want to tinker with it that much
anymore at the cost of flying time since my overall time spend on this
"hobby" is very limited and will continue so in the future.
After previously flying 4-stroke powered spamcans for nearly 20 years
without ever a hickup I feel a little more at ease with the 912 so I guess
it is also personal with me as after two engine/operator related forced
landings in 7 years in the MKIII costing money and time but more so grief
and missed flying opportunities have lost faith in myself to properly care
for the more critical 2-stroke and assure a safe flight for myself and
passenger every time I fly.
In summary,I share the opinion of John Hauck that the performance increase
in takeoff,climb and cruise is small at best and not worth the difference
in cost but reliability, lower fuel cost(no oilmix), increased service time
are worthwhile aspects to consider to offset the initial high investment
and I made my decision based on these factors.
Good luck with your decision.
Frank Reynen MKIII@506hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen/mark3.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: 912 oil temps |
Thanks, Larry.
This exactly what I started looking for but not found yet.
Frank R
Hi Frank: Quite a few specialty auto suppliers have thermostatically
controlled by-passes that will by-pass the cooler until temperature is high
enough. Bugpack Products at 714-979-4990, and CB Performance at
209-733-8222, both offer a unit that mounts right in the oil lines, but
will
still allow full flow through the remote filter. CB is in Farmersville,
CA,
which is what, 100 miles or so from you ?? Sorry, I don't have prices, but
you can bet one of those units will be going on " Vamoose."
Big Lar.
http://www.matronics.com/other
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Segarcts(at)aol.com |
Would like to know what you Klobs are using for the jets ect in carb. I have
a older firestar with a 503 with 100 hours on it.It came with # 8L2 jet
needle,#158 main jet,#2.74 needle jet. The problem is it has always run a
little rich.The exh. temp runs at 900 at 5000 rpms also where is the best
place to buy carb parts?I have dual carbs
THANKS CHARLIE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hi Pwr Eng. Run-up |
In a message dated 6/18/99 12:37:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
d-watson(at)erols.com writes:
<< Just thought a few more questions, can anyone give me some ball park
figures I should expect in regards to temps and RPM's?? I'm running a 503
DCDI, 2 blade Warp Drive Prop.......Thanks
>>
Not over 1200 EGT @ 350 CHT. If your WOT is more than 6500 or so, re-pitch
your prop & start over again.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)intermediatn.net> |
Charlie,
My 503 came with the #158 jet and it too seemed rich to me. I tested the
#155 and found very little difference. Then, tested the 145 and it made a
noticable difference and makes my dual carb 503 run EGT's of ~1000-1050
range in the 4500 to 6500 RPM range. I do not have the needle information
in front of me, but am still using the one that came in it. I use the #145
year round and move the clip on the needle a couple of times a year. I have
about 90 hours on the engine since the change and about 140 before the
change.
Hope this helps.
Vince
-----Original Message-----
From: Segarcts(at)aol.com <Segarcts(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, June 18, 1999 5:22 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Carb jets
>
>Would like to know what you Klobs are using for the jets ect in carb. I
have
>a older firestar with a 503 with 100 hours on it.It came with # 8L2 jet
>needle,#158 main jet,#2.74 needle jet. The problem is it has always run a
>little rich.The exh. temp runs at 900 at 5000 rpms also where is the best
>place to buy carb parts?I have dual carbs
> THANKS CHARLIE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)intermediatn.net> |
Charlie,
Do not know where the best place to buy carb parts is, but I bought from
LEAF.
Vince
-----Original Message-----
From: Segarcts(at)aol.com <Segarcts(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, June 18, 1999 5:22 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Carb jets
>
>Would like to know what you Klobs are using for the jets ect in carb. I
have
>a older firestar with a 503 with 100 hours on it.It came with # 8L2 jet
>needle,#158 main jet,#2.74 needle jet. The problem is it has always run a
>little rich.The exh. temp runs at 900 at 5000 rpms also where is the best
>place to buy carb parts?I have dual carbs
> THANKS CHARLIE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I had an interesting experience today, which brought up a question. A
couple of people gave answers on this today, but being Kolb oriented, I'd
really rather get the answer straight from the
horses'........er.........mouth. A friend and I rented the ole C 172 today
at Bermuda Dunes, (UDD), and flew up to Apple Valley, (APV) for a flying
lesson. Yah, shore, a flying lesson. I wanted to start on my taildragger
rating, and that's the only place within reasonable distance with an
available plane and instructor. Banning (BNG) has a Decathlon, but they
want $120.00/hr. without the instructor. They also have a Pitts.......for $
200.00/hr....w/o Instr. Ain't that the pits ?? Phooey on them. Any
way, APV is another good ole fashioned airport, recently refurbished, with a
great restaurant on field, (with reasonable prices), and Mid-Field Aviation
at the other end. This is another great place to visit. Homebuilts, broken
planes, parts, fixed planes, dead ones, tire kickers, and so on. What a
gas. Instructor Bruce introduced me to N83167, a 1946 Aeronca 7AC
Champ, with A-65 Continental, booted to 75 hp. After gassing up, and some
taxi practise, we headed out. 5700' density alt. Climb rate was next door
to non-existent, but that little outfit did get us air-Bourne, and after 15
or 20 mins. actually did gain 2000'. Folks, I became very aware very
quickly of the meaning of sensitive controls. This is a total turn-around
from my accustomed Spam Cans. Centering the ball was easy. Just watch
closely, and catch it on its' way from one side to the other. Cross
controlled was a way of life, but after an hour, was smoothing out - a bit.
Hah ! ! ! It was an absolute ball. You can bet I'm going back for more.
Now, the question. Bruce says this will be great practise for my Mk III,
as handling is much the same. (?????) Also ran into a guy named Ron
Caraway, and talked to him at length. ( Seems like I should know that name.
Anyone heard of him ?? ) He says he's got quite a bit of time in the Mk
III, and also said the Champ would be great training for mine. Whaddaya all
think ?? Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Eng. Hi-power run-up |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Dennis, by far the easiest way to tie down the tail for a runup is to
hook a nylon auto tow strap around the tailwheel rod and the other end
around the front tire of your car, next to the ground. The strap will be
down low where you want it. Make sure there is no debris to blast your
vehicles front end and your prop.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
writes:
> So, moving on, would someone on the list tell me the best way to tie
>down
>my Firestar so that I might do a good static run up of the engine. I
>would
>like to go to full power this weekend. Should I use my tow strap
>somehow
>wrapped around the boom or what???
> Dennis
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
For sale: Magellan 2000 GPS, with book, new batts. Like new, no
problems.
$90 including shipping PP.
Pls reply above 'net address with your USPO shipping address. bob n.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transitioning |
> I became very aware very
>quickly of the meaning of sensitive controls. This is a total turn-around
>from my accustomed Spam Cans. Centering the ball was easy. Just watch
>closely, and catch it on its' way from one side to the other. Cross
>controlled was a way of life, but after an hour, was smoothing out - a bit.
>Hah ! ! ! It was an absolute ball. You can bet I'm going back for more.
>Now, the question. Bruce says this will be great practise for my Mk III,
>as handling is much the same. (?????)
Sounds like a MKIII to me...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Frank R please tell us more about going with the 912 |
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Sent: Friday, June 18, 1999 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Frank R please tell us more about going with the 912
> The 912 costs significantly more but I anticipate that when it comes time
> to sell it (at 70, for me this can't be to far in the future) the resale
> value will offset the initial cost to a degree.
Now Ray... I met you at Sun n Fun........... and you are not 70........
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Listers:
Sold GPS. Thanks for asking.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Got another one for ya, Kolbers. The guru at Narco Radio specified a 1 1/2
amp. breaker for the radio. The other night I was going through back issues
of Contact ! and found where someone had checked things out, and found that
a regular aviation radio drew 2.8 amps on transmit. An e-mail to Narco last
week has gotten no response, but it seems to me that if it draws 2.8 amps,
then probably a 5 amp breaker would be appropriate. What do you think ??
Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Segarcts(at)aol.com |
Thanks for the input on the carb jets.I will send for the new jets monday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey Kember" <jkember(at)istar.ca> |
Does anyone have any experience with the 65 hp HKS Boxer? How does it
compare with the 912 or the 912S? The HKS seems like a nice compromise
between the 582 and the 912. Is anyone running one?
Thanks,
Jeff
jkember(at)istar.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/19/99 |
I just want to thank everyone for imput about radio problems in my firestar.
I found out the Delcom 960 transmits at just a tad above 1 watt. I must have
a bad ptt cord cause when I dont use it, it works for 15 miles as a hand held
and rubber ducky. I bought an SWR meter and it works great. Radio Shack,
$40. I found a real radio man at the Columbus, Ga airport and he sold me a
used Collins aircraft radio for a good figure and put a motorola antanae on,
mounted a Rotax reg.rect. w/17amp bat and I want you to know I cook. Got so
happy I even hooked up my strob again. I feel like a new born calf in a
field of clover. Had a little buzz from the generator coil or whatever so I
put a 2600/35V condensor in line just before the radio and it cleared it up I
think. Thanks for the imput people. Reading this is definately a learning
curve. The down side of puting a strobe in series, is if the fuse blows on
the strobs so goes the charging circuit but I have a bat so I am still going
strong. I do not think I can transmit 17 amps away! Thanks and keep it
coming. By the way, if you want to see the pics of a Kolb saving a man's
life, its on http:members.aol.com/TCowan1917/page1.html. Love that
crome-molly and that Kold cage. Man had a heart attack at 1400 ft and lived
to tell (If he had been wearing a helmet, he could also remember) about it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
"Sam Cox" ,
"Paul Spadin" ,
"Kolb Builders" ,
"Greg Moloney" ,
"Dave Thomas" , "Danny Day" ,
"Charles Waller" ,
"Buddy Carilse" ,
"Bob Moorehead" ,
"Ben Cole" , "ASC2"
| Subject: | Fw: June Yankee Newsletter |
----- Original Message -----
From: <LTSBLD1(at)aol.com>
; ; ;
; ; ;
;
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 1999 5:34 PM
Subject: June Yankee Newsletter
> YANKEE ULTRALIGHT
> FLYER
> USUA
> "SAFETY THRU EDUCATION"
> AND
> FLY FOR FUN
>
> USUA Club 202
> June 1999 EAA U/L
> Chapter 67
>
> Minutes of May Meeting
>
> Meeting opened by President Colby at 1009 hours with 2 guests present.
Ted
> Sanderson offered to arrange for dumpster, outhouses and gas. We had 7
> outhouses last year, will go with 10 for '99. Insurance sent out today.
Ted
> Sanderson named additional insured. We presented $500 check to Greenland
> School Dept. for scholarship fund. Signs to be designed and printed by
> Kinko. Tents laid out for raising and patching and reclaiming of missing
> pieces. Poles to be painted to match tents. Made arrangement for
berthing
> of our VIP visitors. Tents and campers for VIP visitors. Treasurer's
> report: $1,821.25 on hand. Fliers will be passed out at June 6 work
> session. Gave an update on our Saturday work session at Sanderson Field.
> Discussed having a pay phone installed. Necessary wires available. Tom
> Hettinger had a hard landing at Plum Island and broke right leg,
recovering
> nicely. Discussed rules for Fly-In disclaimer. T-shirt front to be
> re-designed and, because yellow shirts were in demand by public, we
decided
> to make a few light yellow ones. Kids shirts were a big seller last year.
> We will double kids quantities. T-shirt company offered two day
turnaround
> for reprints. Going to sell caps this year. Volunteers will be utilized
and
> needed very much at this year's event. Plum Island's club will be needed
> more than ever. Registration procedures discussed,again. Raffles are a
> possibility. Meeting adjourned at 2100 hrs.
> Respectfully, Gene Hill, Jr.,Secretary.
>
> 8th Annual Fly-In is named USUA Signature Event
>
> We are honored to announce that our fly-in has been named one of the 3
"must
> attend" events of the year as identified by our parent organization, the
> United States Ultralight Association. Our hard work, camaraderie, and
> professionalism ARE noticed and have been rewarded. Because of the
stature
> of this event, the list of well-known officials and business people who
will
> attend reads like a who's who in ultralights and sport aviation, to wit:
>
> John Ballantyne, President of USUA
> Timm Bogenhagen, EAA Ultralight Administrator
> Jim Stevenson, President of Aero Sports Connection
> John Wood, FAA, Portland FSDO ( he's on our side and will speak on
airspace
> regulations )
> Vern Peckham, renowned aviation commentator of Oshkosh and Sun-N-Fun fame
> Tom Peghiny and Sparky Lamontagne, Flightstar Sportsplanes
> Art Willard, Buckeye Powered Parachutes
>
> We will need all the volunteers that we can get to make this event work.
If
> you can help, especially on the first Saturday and Sunday, please contact
> Walt or Rick .( see list of club officers )
>
> Fly-In Status
>
> The first work session for this year's fly-in was on Saturday, May 22nd.
We
> rolled out the new tent and, wouldn't you know it, we had two thirds of a
40'
> by 60' tent and one third of a 50' by 75' tent. All is not lost as we can
> make a 40' by 40' tent ( still larger than the old one ) if Al Goodwin
can't
> locate our missing 20' by 40' section. Somewhere, somebody else has a
> similar problem as they have OUR parts and WE have their's. Al is working
on
> the problem and has sent out the two sections that we will use for some
minor
> seam repairs. The tent sections were all very clean, bright white and
royal
> blue in color.
>
> The Plum Island Club came through big time, AGAIN!! Dick O'Toole and Don
> MacDonald arrived with a trailer full of pre-built pressure treated deck
> sections for the shower floor landings, then proceeded to construct a
drywell
> that will collect all greywater from the showers and the sinks. Yankee
> member Russ Hayes brought his backhoe to make this chore bearable and
> everybody collected rocks from the sand pit to line the drywell. Whew,
what
> an effort!! Great job everybody!!
>
> Saturday, June 5th, was the sign making work session at Al Goodwin's
place.
> We took stock of signs on hand and sent Peter Ashley to Kinko's where he
had
> 36 11 X 17 signs printed and laminated for $36. The rest of the crew
sanded
> and primed all of the old sign frames. Then the crew sanded and primed
the
> old tent poles, then repainted them royal blue to match the new tent.
Great
> effort guys!!
>
> VP Bill Wheet found us a deal on a new (previously installed) one and a
half
> horsepower, 13 GPM deep well submersible pump. Our water supply problems
are
> no more. We will install the pump at the final Fly-In worksession on
> Saturday July 3rd . We will erect the tent and do final layouts for ALL
> fly-in facilities. BE THERE for this one !!!
>
> Member Spotlight: Wally McCue, Skyhaven Airport manager
>
> We ultralight pilots have at best a sketchy relationship with the licensed
> operators of the bigger, faster and heavier planes with whom we share the
> sky. Because of the occasional flare-ups between our two groups, we all
> understand the importance of retaining any well placed allies. Wally
McCue,
> airport manager for Skyhaven Airport, has been in our corner for almost
> twenty years. He was involved in constructing the original documents
> allowing early ultralights access to some state airports. Today he is
still
> working to improve conditions for our sport. With this in mind, Wally
> proudly introduces a new 1200-foot grass strip for ultralights at
Skyhaven.
> He calls this strip 15 Right and urges pilots to use it for test runs,
crow
> hopping or as an ultralight runway. With safety and courtesy in mind, we
can
> continue to share Skyhaven with other aircraft. Now a licensed pilot,
Wally
> (who has a long history in aviation maintenance) became an ultralight
builder
> and pilot in 1982. Since then he has built and flown three ultralights
and
> been involved in many other projects. He will always have a soft spot for
> ultralights, a pastime he calls grass roots flying.
>
> As the manager of Skyhaven and member of the Yankee Ultralight Flyers,
Wally
> is truly interested in keeping this sport a safe and economical source of
> flying. To accomplish this goal, he makes a few offers and observations.
He
> would like to see more radios in our small machines, not to talk to him
but
> to advise other aircraft of our intentions. Wally also keeps a neatly
bound
> copy of FAR Part 103 in his office for our convenience. He would also
like
> to meet and brief any pilots interested in using Skyhaven about some of
the
> unique qualities of this airport. With men like Wally on our side,
> ultralight flying is here to stay. Thank you and keep up the good work,
Wally.
> Member Spotlight was conceived and written by member Rich Lancaster
>
> Fly-In Information
>
> Sanderson field is located on the west side of Route 151 in Greenland, New
> Hampshire. It is about 5 miles south of the Pease International
Tradeport.
> (formerly Pease AFB) The grass runways are 25 and 07 with 25 almost
always
> the active. Pattern altitude is 500 feet and the field unicom for this
event
> is 122.9 Premium 92 octane auto fuel is available at the field. Bring
your
> own oil. We use the Red flag / Green flag method to control traffic. Red
> flag means NO takeoffs allowed, aircraft in the air are to land and stay
> down. Green flag means field open for all normal operations. Powered
> parachutes please use the 1000 foot field to the north of the main runway.
> Please announce your intentions if radio equipped. Upon landing, please
> register and receive a pilot briefing sheet. Please observe the following
> rules:
>
> No starting of engines in tie down area. Push aircraft to taxiway to
start
> No first flights of either Pilot or Aircraft.
> Watch out for the powered parachutes. They are fun but they are SLOW.
>
> Fly-In brochures available
>
> We have about 8000 copies of the fly-in brochure. If you need some,
contact
> Walt or Rick and they will arrange to get them to you.
>
> June Meeting
>
> Monday June 28th is the last meeting before the fly-in. We can use all
the
> help and suggestions that we can get. Just be ready to be the chairman of
> any idea or item you suggest. It's easy to Talk the Talk. We need folks
who
> can Walk the Walk. Give us a hand, we'll sure appreciate it. Be there !!
>
> Newsletter on the Web
>
> Tom Hettinger says it's almost ready to go and should be ready sometime in
> July. Stay tuned for the address. Meanwhile, please visit Fantom Jon's
web
> page at: http://members.aol.com/fantomjon/index.html
>
> Items For Sale
>
> Vector 627SR, Rotax 377 powered, a poor man's Bonanza $3800 or BO. Call
Bill
> at 603-868-2341
> Mini-Max, no engine or instruments, chute, excellent workmanship, $3000.
Call
> Tom at 518-664-3725
> Bumble-Bee Gyrocopter, Kawasaki 440 engine, nice design $2500 or BO. Call
Al
> at 207-363-4442
> AIRTECH floats with retractable gear for slow flyer, Quick Silver, etc.
The
> retracts are in board on floats and are air operated, also have nose wheel
> set up, asking $3,000.00 Call Chase Balcom
> 603-863-0583, in Claremont N.H.
> If you have something aviation related to sell, please notify our editor
Rick
> Sweeney, listed below.
>
> CURRENT OFFICERS:
>
>
> President: Walt Colby 603-742-1659
> WCOLBY2224(at)aol.com
> Vice-Pres: Bill Wheet 603-868-2341
> wheet(at)nh.ultranet.com
> Secretary: Gene Hill 603-431-6045
>
> Treasurer: Doug Shute: 603-652-7828
> jdshute(at)ttlc.net
> Historian: Jack Denison 603-332-8774 EMJAYDEE(at)webtv.net
> Editor: Rick Sweeney 207-439-5114 LTSBLD1(at)aol.com
>
>
> Application for Membership / renewal
>
>
> Name: ___________________________________ Date: ___________
>
> Street Address: ________________________
>
> City: __________________________ E-mail address: _________________________
>
> State: ___________________________________ Zip: ___________
>
> Ultralight: _______________________________ Own? Yes
No
>
> Field flown from: _____________________ USUA or EAA # __________________
>
> UL Pilot Reg # _____________________ UL Registration #
________________
>
> Make check for $ 12.00 payable to Yankee Ultralight Flyers
> Send to:
> Douglas Shute, PO Box 281, Milton, NH 03851
>
>
> Yankee Ultralight Flyer
>
> Rick Sweeney, editor
> PO Box 149
> York Harbor, Maine 03911
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Eng. Hi-power run-up |
After the stories I've heard on this list about wind gusts, I tied mine down
to both wing spars as well as the tail.
David (first test flight of my new-to-me Mk II scheduled for the 27th)
Bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hale" <AccessToData(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Into a Fence |
Well now I get my turn at bad luck(sounds better than "I did something
really stupid"). I decided to land on a road with a fence next to it. I
missed the section of road I was aiming for and landed too close to the
fence. Of course a wingtip caught on the fence and did not let go. The
plane pivoted on the fence and ended up nose first into the barbwire. The
new full height Lexan windshield sacrificed itself to save me from having a
chest full of barbwire cuts. I was up in the foothills, so I had to walk 3
miles on dirt road before I got a ride and called my wife.
The damage: Broken lift strut, all the fabric top and bottom of the wing
shredded, the aileron trailing edge is missing a 2' section, a 1' section of
the under side of the fuselage fabric shredded. The trailing edge of the
wing and a section of the leading edge of the aileron dented.
So now I get to recover one wing and the aileron. Plus I get to repair the
structure.
When I tore the fabric off, I found something interesting, on the end of the
wing at the trailing edge, there are two braces that crossover each other.
The longest piece had pulled out of it's rivet in the spar. And where the
two cross each other, they had nearly worn holes in each other.
I did have a scratch on the bottom of the wing spar between the first and
second rib. It is about 3" long and runs mostly with the length of the
spar. I cannot say how deep it is. Less than 1/64"? I took a dremel and
ground it out. Is this the right thing to do? Is it ok to have a scratch
on the wing spar at all?
Brian Hale
FS I
Sacramento, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Into a Fence |
Brian,
Misery loves company eh? Real sorry to hear your tale.
>When I tore the fabric off, I found something interesting, on the end of the
>wing at the trailing edge, there are two braces that crossover each other.
>The longest piece had pulled out of it's rivet in the spar. And where the
>two cross each other, they had nearly worn holes in each other.
On this, I believe the plans call for a tie-wrap at the cross-over place
to bind the two together. I had also used a dab of something like proseal
to act as a soft pad between the too. I stripped one wing 2 weeks ago
and like the looks of what that proseal dab does in blocking or absorbing
vibration. Of course that is one of the few good looking pieces of my
ruined wing.
>I did have a scratch on the bottom of the wing spar between the first and
>second rib. It is about 3" long and runs mostly with the length of the
I don't know enf to comment on the scratch. -BR
Maybe we should start our own AL recycling center here pretty soon.
Hang in there Brian; glad your body is unharmed. Barbed wire -- yech.
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | New Kolb-Support/Parts |
Do not expect parts (or perhaps support) for the next 4 to 6 weeks. If you
have an airplane that is AOG for parts you are SOL. Several weeks ago I
placed an order for a replacement exhaust system that I planned to have
coated. Last Monday I placed an order for several parts including a tailwheel
support tube and a gas cap. I was assured that in spite of the impending move
they would be shipped out Monday or Tuesday. I told the gentleman to phone or
e-mail me if they could not get the order out. I received no message. The
parts did not arrive.
So, this morning I tried calling Kolb. The PA phone doesn't answer. (The KY
phone number rings in PA.) I was told that the parts didn't ship and they
have no idea when they will ship. The exhaust is on order from Rotax. Since
the gas cap is an AOG item I requested the mfgr phone number so that I could
buy it direct. They "will get back to me."
I would have expected that "New Kolb" would have posted a message on this
list advising that such lack of support was imminent. Since they didn't,
listers should now consider themselves advised not to expect any service from
Kolb.
Anyone know where I can get a gas cap??
Bill George
Mk-3 582
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | : Kolb-List:Into a Fence |
Brian, soory to hear about your misfortune but glad your OK.
I saw a Kit Fox over the weekend and it was painted with a product from
Canada call High Tech. Don;t know how to spell it but the owner said it was
easy and very fast to put spray on. the recommended covering is half the
number of coats of Poly Tone, Spray , Brush that I used and it's therefore
cheaper and lighter to use. It covered very well and was more glossy than
my thinned and blush added sprayed Poly Tone. In fact, I'd say it was close
to AeroThane in luster. the Kit Fox owner trailers the plane and so far
it's held up well to sunlight and trailering. the airplane has over 300
hours on it. BTW, this aircraft weighs 477 with a 582, IVO 3 blade prop,
electric start and tundra tires. Hard to believe but that's what he claims.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Eng. Hi-power run-up |
In a message dated 6/18/99 7:10:51 AM Central Daylight Time,
d-watson(at)erols.com writes:
> So, moving on, would someone on the list tell me the best way to tie down
> my Firestar so that I might do a good static run up of the engine. I would
> like to go to full power this weekend. Should I use my tow strap somehow
> wrapped around the boom or what???
> Dennis
I tied to the h-section in the tail...
Steve Kroll Mk2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rayfield, Don" <drayfiel(at)kcc.com> |
Can anyone tell me where the Lake Texoma flyin is in relation to Dallas? I
have to fly out there (commercial) on business this weekend and might see if
I can get to it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Eng. Hi-power run-up |
Below is a web address for a picture of a Sling Shot run up. Rusty had a
rental car so if it got nicked, no problem.
http://members.aol.com/n8754k/page/runup.jpg
Regards,
Will Uribe
WillU(at)aol.com
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
Kolb-List message posted by: "Dennis Watson"
> would someone on the list tell me the best way to tie down
> my Firestar so that I might do a good static run up of the engine. I would
> like to go to full power this weekend. Should I use my tow strap somehow
> wrapped around the boom or what???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Yates" <johny(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Kolb-Support/Parts |
-----Original Message-----
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com <WGeorge737(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, June 21, 1999 10:31 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: New Kolb-Support/Parts
>
>Do not expect parts (or perhaps support) for the next 4 to 6 weeks. If you
>have an airplane that is AOG for parts you are SOL. Several weeks ago I
>placed an order for a replacement exhaust system that I planned to have
>coated. Last Monday I placed an order for several parts including a
tailwheel
>support tube and a gas cap. I was assured that in spite of the impending
move
>they would be shipped out Monday or Tuesday. I told the gentleman to phone
or
>e-mail me if they could not get the order out. I received no message. The
>parts did not arrive.
> That was our fault, someone should have called back.
>So, this morning I tried calling Kolb. The PA phone doesn't answer. (The KY
>phone number rings in PA.) I was told that the parts didn't ship and they
>have no idea when they will ship. The exhaust is on order from Rotax. Since
>the gas cap is an AOG item I requested the mfgr phone number so that I
could
>buy it direct. They "will get back to me."
>
>I would have expected that "New Kolb" would have posted a message on this
>list advising that such lack of support was imminent. Since they didn't,
>listers should now consider themselves advised not to expect any service
from
>Kolb.
> I think to say don't expect any service from Kolb is a bit unfair George,
we have a huge project at hand breaking down the whole Phoenixville shop and
moving it to KY. This consists of all our inventory, and large machines ect.
Yes maybe there would have been better ways to go about it, but we are
trying our best.
The bottom line is we never received your exhaust, so that's not our fault,
and the gas caps were all packed up already.
I would ask everyone to please be patient we will do our best to get parts
out after they are unloaded. We have a postcard going out to everyone with
new phone numbers on it. Also before posting messages to the whole world
please try to call first.
For some reason George you called and got your information and answers and
still felt the need to complain.
John
>Anyone know where I can get a gas cap??
P.S. call me at 717-362-1057 all send you one of my own.
John Yates
Chief Operating Officer
606-862-9692 610-948-4136 717-362-1057
www.tnkolbaircraft.com
tnkolbaircraft@sun-spot.com
www.kolbaircraft.com
johny(at)epix.net
>
>Bill George
>Mk-3 582
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <d-watson(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Into a Fence |
Todd,
I'm pretty sure that is what the Firestar KXP I bought last month is
painted with. Very glossy paint job, still shines like a new car. Just for
info I put the scales under it last week and was very surprised to find that
it is 295 lbs., no fuel, full instruments, large tires (Al. wheels), brakes,
full enclosure,BRS,503 DCDI, 2 blade Warp Drive, Al. prop spinner, strobes
on wing tips and heavy wheel pants. So if I deduct 25 lbs for the BRS i'm
only 16 lbs. over weight, and I'm sure I can get rid of that by taking off
the wheel pants and the strobes. I have a book that came with it that is for
the paint.........I'm still shocked about the weight,Do you think it's the
paint???
----Original Message-----
From: Thompson, Todd <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com>
Date: Monday, June 21, 1999 1:43 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List:Into a Fence
>
>Brian, soory to hear about your misfortune but glad your OK.
>
>I saw a Kit Fox over the weekend and it was painted with a product from
>Canada call High Tech. Don;t know how to spell it but the owner said it
was
>easy and very fast to put spray on. the recommended covering is half the
>number of coats of Poly Tone, Spray , Brush that I used and it's therefore
>cheaper and lighter to use. It covered very well and was more glossy than
>my thinned and blush added sprayed Poly Tone. In fact, I'd say it was
close
>to AeroThane in luster. the Kit Fox owner trailers the plane and so far
>it's held up well to sunlight and trailering. the airplane has over 300
>hours on it. BTW, this aircraft weighs 477 with a 582, IVO 3 blade prop,
>electric start and tundra tires. Hard to believe but that's what he
claims.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New Kolb-Support/Parts |
John;
If YOU had posted a message first, mine would not have been necessary.
Bill George
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/21/99 1:09:56 PM Central Daylight Time, drayfiel(at)kcc.com
writes:
> Can anyone tell me where the Lake Texoma flyin is in relation to Dallas? I
> have to fly out there (commercial) on business this weekend and might see
if
> I can get to it.
May 28, 1999 - June 21, 1999
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bm