Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bn
June 21, 1999 - July 22, 1999
North out of Dallas on I-35E to Gainsville and Hwy 82 east to hwy 377 north
to Cedar Mills resort. It's just before the bridge crossing the lake.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Kolb-Support/Parts |
>we have a huge project at hand breaking down the whole Phoenixville shop and
>moving it to KY.
>John Yates
>Chief Operating Officer
>606-862-9692 610-948-4136 717-362-1057
Hang in there John, I live just south of Clinch Mountain down here in
Blountville, Tn. (Hooterville)
and having driven through London, Ky a time or two, you have your work cut
out for you.
The rest of the world does not realize how hard it is moving Kolb parts
through West Virginia
on a mule path!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transitioning |
In a message dated 6/18/99 9:27:47 PM Central Daylight Time,
larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I, and also said the Champ would be great training for mine. Whaddaya all
> think ?? Big Lar.
Larry...
I spent time in both a J-3 and a Champ before flying my Mk2 and the
experience although helpful will not adequately prepare you for landing the
Kolb as the flare in either the Cub or the Champ starts much before you do it
in the Kolb. If you flare the same place in the Kolb that you flared the
Champ...you will be way above the ground when you run out of flying speed. I
used good speed (55 indicated) and wheel landings to start with to get used
to the Kolb feel keeping some power on all the way down final. The Kolb
feels a bunch lighter and runs out of speed much sooner than the Champ once
you get off the power. Of course I am flying at about 645 lbs all up in the
Mk2 (solo) and some of you guys with Mk3s have that much weight empty. If you
can, go fly the Factory Kolb or some other Mk3 before you fly
yours....particularly since you have been used to flying much heavier
airplanes (172) and even then be prepared for some surprises once you are
solo as losing 200# makes a huge difference in airplanes this light.
Steve Kroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 <sbaew(at)dames.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Installation of Chute |
I ordered and received a BRS chute awhile back for my Mark III. Given
the choice between the standard chute canister and the new Vertical
Launch System (VLS)I opted for the VLS because it seemed a little more
aerodynamic and it looked cool. The guy at BRS said either would work
fine. Right now, Im thinking I made a mistake. Installation per the BRS
instructions seems to require a complete gutting and re-engineering of
the wing gap seal construction. I tried to avoid most of this by
installing the unit just above the gap seal. To my dismay, BRS does not
even show or mention the gap seal in their instructions. They advised me
by telephone that they prefer the unit NOT be installed above the gap
seal so that it doesnt catch air underneath it during flight. Also, I
need to be able to easily remove the gap seal after every flight for
trailering, and this further complicates things.
Im sure there are a few gents out there who have gone through this before
me. Could we compare notes either directly or over the List to save me
some anguish and time? Alternatively, if there are others who recently
ordered or are planning on ordering the VLS, I would gladly share the
details of my difficulties with you, discuss the options, and perhaps
save you some time and trouble.
Thanks,
Erich Weaver
sbaew(at)dames.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | : Kolb-List:Installation of Chute |
Erich, I have a VLS in my MK3 and I did have to gut out the center section
of the wing gap. Just cut a big square hole the size of the box, add a 1/2
inch for clearance and then line the hole with some leftover aluminum angle
from the gap kit. Shouldn't take you more than a few hundred hours! Just
kiddin. The hardest part is cutting the Lexan cover. Inorder to have the
wing gap slide on and off you won't end up with much left. BRS didn't have
an adequate hardware pak for me at the time so I improvised and mounted the
plate with the root tube bracket(one) as far forward as I could. The front
"z" brackets clip to the wing forawrd cage spar tube. You'll have to
ddesign a spacer to prevent the forward part of the plate from moving up and
down. A spacer between the plate and the forward wing mount cage spar will
do but you have to secure it somehow. The VLSs fits very nicely into the
wing gap. The wing crown is 1/2 inch above the VLS and so most people don't
even realize the chute is there. If you have electric starter, the pack
cables at the rear of the enclosure are very close to the starter so make
sure it won't get hung up if deployed. I think we're supposed to send in
pictures of our installation to BRS. I've been lazy and haven't yet. My
red handle hangs down from the center of the windshield top support ring.
It's very easy to get to and the windshield can support the pull required to
deploy.
-----Original Message-----
From: Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 [mailto:sbaew(at)dames.com]
Sent: Monday, June 21, 1999 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List:Installation of Chute
I ordered and received a BRS chute awhile back for my Mark III. Given
the choice between the standard chute canister and the new Vertical
Launch System (VLS)I opted for the VLS because it seemed a little more
aerodynamic and it looked cool. The guy at BRS said either would work
fine. Right now, Im thinking I made a mistake. Installation per the BRS
instructions seems to require a complete gutting and re-engineering of
the wing gap seal construction. I tried to avoid most of this by
installing the unit just above the gap seal. To my dismay, BRS does not
even show or mention the gap seal in their instructions. They advised me
by telephone that they prefer the unit NOT be installed above the gap
seal so that it doesnt catch air underneath it during flight. Also, I
need to be able to easily remove the gap seal after every flight for
trailering, and this further complicates things.
Im sure there are a few gents out there who have gone through this before
me. Could we compare notes either directly or over the List to save me
some anguish and time? Alternatively, if there are others who recently
ordered or are planning on ordering the VLS, I would gladly share the
details of my difficulties with you, discuss the options, and perhaps
save you some time and trouble.
Thanks,
Erich Weaver
sbaew(at)dames.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AnvilGil(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Kolb-List Digest: |
PLEASE UNSUBSCRIBE ANVILGIL(at)AOL.COM
I am still getting the Kolb letter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hale" <AccessToData(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Kolb-Support/Parts |
----- Original Message -----
From: <WGeorge737(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 21, 1999 10:17 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: New Kolb-Support/Parts
>
> Do not expect parts (or perhaps support) for the next 4 to 6 weeks. If you
I had the same problem this morning. I tried all the numbers several times
and finally Bill answered the tech support line. I could not have picked a
worse time to need parts from Kolb. Bill said it will be at least two weeks
before they can take any orders for parts. My order is pretty small, but
aparently the place is in the process of being emptied out. Bill did answer
a couple of questions. He thought that the scratch on my wing spar would
not be a problem.
The really bright spot though is that they gave me the number for Aircraft
Technical Support. This company supplies Kolb with their covering material
for their kits. Dondy has been great. I believe sheand her husband are the
owners. All I had to tell her is that I needed enough material to cover one
wing and she put together the order for me. Since I am not the builder, I
did not know what to order. She is very experienced herself in covering and
repairing aircraft and answered all my questions. Their prices seem to be
better than others. The number is 877-877-3334.
Also, Bill gave me tthe number for the company that Kolb gets their metal
from. I plan to call them tomorrow.
I guess we are on our own for a while.
Thanks for all the messages of support, I knew you guys would understand.
Brian Hale
Firestar I
Sacramento, CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hegar wheels. |
| From: | Jon D LaVasseur <lavasseur(at)juno.com> |
Hello from Minnesota! Can anyone supply me with the actual address and
phone number of the Hegar Wheel Company? I don't need a dealer name but
the actual company for answers to a few technical questions.
Lavasseur(at)juno.com
Firestar 503
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Installation of Chute |
Hey Erich,,,
I see your not flying yet???
About the VLS and gap seal:
You don't, (repeat don't) have to cut the gap-seal around the whole
box. Only the mounting brackets. Set your VLS box height so it rests
just above the gap-seal. You must now slide the gap-seal in under thie
VLS, but it's even more aerodynamic this way.
I understand this cutting will gut your gap-seal, but an earlier listing
pointed this out for you. You will loose some bracing with the cutting,
but just add more where it becomes too flimsy... It WILL work.... The
VLS system will be your reward as well...
Hope you get into the air soon.
Have you repaired all from the prop strike??
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
Big Lar, you've heard of flying by the seat of your pants, this
pertains to the gut feeling of your body being leaned one way or another
by uncoordinated controls. Your ass will tell you that you are
uncoordinated and you are sliding one way or another in the seat,
uncoordinated controls agian.Hence, flying by the seat of your pants.
The silky controls that almost coordinate themselves in the cessnas
are a far cry from a champ. the champ and the kolb like to have the
rudder in first when making a turn, only an instant before, otherwise
you will chase the ball with the ailerons trying to center it.The champ
is a rudder airplane, my mk3 on floats is also.
Try this in the champ. I was almost 75 hrs before it came to me.
Being coordinated all the time with out looking at that ball will keep
you safer, especially when landing and taking off. You really can feel
it in your seat and stomach. Rock on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gallar" <MikeG(at)ij.net> |
| Subject: | New Kolb-Support/Parts |
Being fairly new to the kolb family I have found so far that everyboby at
Kolb has
been very attentive to my needs. Some PEOPLE must not have a clue what it
takes to move
equipment, people, inventory, and every detail of a company from one place
to another, much
less another state. Be patient and I'm sure that Kolb will still be the same
dedicated company
they always been.
Mike Gallar
MarkIII 693MS
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> WGeorge737(at)aol.com
> Sent: Monday, June 21, 1999 3:28 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: New Kolb-Support/Parts
>
>
> John;
>
> If YOU had posted a message first, mine would not have been necessary.
>
> Bill George
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Into a Fence |
Dennis,
I suspect that your scales were not the most accurate.
John Jung
Dennis Watson wrote:
>
> Todd,
> I'm pretty sure that is what the Firestar KXP I bought last month is
> painted with. Very glossy paint job, still shines like a new car. Just for
> info I put the scales under it last week and was very surprised to find that
> it is 295 lbs., no fuel, full instruments, large tires (Al. wheels), brakes,
> full enclosure,BRS,503 DCDI, 2 blade Warp Drive, Al. prop spinner, strobes
> on wing tips and heavy wheel pants. So if I deduct 25 lbs for the BRS i'm
> only 16 lbs. over weight, and I'm sure I can get rid of that by taking off
> the wheel pants and the strobes. I have a book that came with it that is for
> the paint.........I'm still shocked about the weight,Do you think it's the
> paint???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <d-watson(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Into a Fence |
You guys are no fun at all. Just want to break a guys bubble.---- I think
what your saying is that my scales are lying about my body weight also, man,
I thought I was doing good. Well, I have no choice but to buy new scales.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List:Into a Fence
>
>Dennis,
>
> I suspect that your scales were not the most accurate.
>
>John Jung
>
>Dennis Watson wrote:
>
>>
>> Todd,
>> I'm pretty sure that is what the Firestar KXP I bought last month is
>> painted with. Very glossy paint job, still shines like a new car. Just
for
>> info I put the scales under it last week and was very surprised to find
that
>> it is 295 lbs., no fuel, full instruments, large tires (Al. wheels),
brakes,
>> full enclosure,BRS,503 DCDI, 2 blade Warp Drive, Al. prop spinner,
strobes
>> on wing tips and heavy wheel pants. So if I deduct 25 lbs for the BRS i'm
>> only 16 lbs. over weight, and I'm sure I can get rid of that by taking
off
>> the wheel pants and the strobes. I have a book that came with it that is
for
>> the paint.........I'm still shocked about the weight,Do you think it's
the
>> paint???
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
"Challenger List" ,
Is anyone from the NE, SD, IA, MN area flying to Oshkosh this year? A
few of us would like to get a group going to fly there together. Leaving
around the 27th or 28th and leaving Osh on Sunday.
J.D. Stewart
NCF Communications, Inc.
http://www.ncfcomm.com
UltraFun Airsports
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
Challenger Owners e-mail list administrator
http://challenger.maverick.net
Northeast Nebraska Flying Club
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc
ICQ # 22494032
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Installation of Chute |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Doc,
"Set your VLS box height so it rests
just above the gap-seal. You must now slide the gap-seal in under thie
VLS, but it's even more aerodynamic this way."
I am interested in understanding how or why raising the VLS above the gap
seal improves the aerodynamics?
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN 312
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Kolb-Support/Parts |
George,
don't be a hack.
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com <WGeorge737(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, June 21, 1999 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: New Kolb-Support/Parts
>
>John;
>
>If YOU had posted a message first, mine would not have been necessary.
>
>Bill George
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Into a Fence |
>
>You guys are no fun at all. Just want to break a guys bubble.---- I think
>what your saying is that my scales are lying about my body weight also, man,
>I thought I was doing good. Well, I have no choice but to buy new scales.
> Dennis
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 10:20 AM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List:Into a Fence
>
>
>>
>>Dennis,
>>
>> I suspect that your scales were not the most accurate.
>>
>>John Jung
>>
Let me know when you reweigh it - & W&B?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
| Subject: | : Kolb-List:Installation of Chute |
Hey Doc, Question for you: How can the VLS be more aerodynamic on top
sticking out in the wind than burried inside the gap seal?
-----Original Message-----
From: Ray L Baker [mailto:rbaker2(at)juno.com]
Sent: Monday, June 21, 1999 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List:Installation of Chute
Doc,
"Set your VLS box height so it rests
just above the gap-seal. You must now slide the gap-seal in under thie
VLS, but it's even more aerodynamic this way."
I am interested in understanding how or why raising the VLS above the gap
seal improves the aerodynamics?
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN 312
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wally Hofmann <wally(at)foxfibre.com> |
| Subject: | drilling the cage |
I'm installing the wire harness and voltage regulator in a FireFly. Is
it totally verboten to drill a few 1/8" rivet holes in the steel cage?
Aircraft Spruce sells cable ties that can be riveted in place (catalog
pg 360).
Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Wally Hofmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: drilling the cage |
I don't know about totally verboten ...probably the only real answer
there is "it depends". No help, I know.
I personally opted for avoiding holes. Instead, you can tie-wrap wire
bundles and/or put them inside of a plastic tube perhaps. For something
bigger or requiring more hefty attachment, I got into fiberglass methods.
For my Kuntzleman strobe electronics box, I got a piece of foam board,
glassed both sides, and epoxied (with microballoons) the board to the
aircraft tubing. Worked great, looked nice. I also made fiberglass
hardpoints, epoxied to the aircraft frame for brake cable stops.
(These hardpoints were strong enf to rivet AL angle stock to, and
they held up to pretty hard brake cable forces (crummy brakes,
remember? :) ). During rebuild I may add brazed-on tabs
where I now know I would like to attach things -- but I'm not yet
sure about putting brazing heat to the middle of structural tubing
members -- may be as bad or worse than holes.
-Ben Ransom
>
>I'm installing the wire harness and voltage regulator in a FireFly. Is
>it totally verboten to drill a few 1/8" rivet holes in the steel cage?
>Aircraft Spruce sells cable ties that can be riveted in place (catalog
>pg 360).
>
>Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
>Wally Hofmann
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Installation of Chute |
Because more than one person responded to this, I shall list this
response.
I'll preface what I should say with this:
Rather than say: "even more aerodynamic this way."
Should have read: "still aerodynamic this way."
The "even more",, was refering to the comparrison.
You got me there, but you don't get off that easy....You pointed this
out, but here's where my thinking comes from:
The VLS unit cannot sit inside the gap-seal. Regardless of how low you
mount it, most of it will still be above the gap-seal. You have two
choices: you can cut a hole in the gap-seal big enough to set the VLS
unit within the hole (where it will still sit above the gap-seal), or
you can slide the gap-seal under the VLS unit over a hole that goes
around the mounting brackets. In flight, the gap-seal will have a mild
lift. This lift will close the opening in the gap-seal when it rises
into the VLS unit overhead... This cannot happen when you have a cut-out
around the unit.
This is the "more aerodynamic", refered to.
If you think this isn't so,, I will show an interest in your point of
view.
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HANGERMAN1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/09/99 |
In a message dated 6/10/99 4:10:56 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
TCowan1917(at)AOL.COM writes:
<< Good luck on transferring MIME files. I have downloaded a bunch of these
and
blow my mind each time. I dont know what program makes them but I have
busted them in the outlood express files but they usually burn a couple of
my
hours. Now, I just take a quick look and get rid of them. I have asked
supposed experts around here about them and they say "whats a mime file".
G'luck. Ted By the way, sold the ULTRASTAR to as very nice guy who had his
wrecked by a storm and took his in trade so I will give new life to yet
another victim of time. >>
I have recently discovered that the latest version of "WinZip" will decode a
MIME file. I tried it and it worked.
Jim Johnston
Looooong time lurker.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 <sbaew(at)dames.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Installation of Chute |
I would like to point out a couple more things about the VLS installation
in reference to the current discussion. First, given the configuration
of the steel cage on my Mrk III, the hardware from BRS that was a less
than perfect match with the plane, and the signficant reconfiguration of
the wing gap seal bracing required, I did what Doc has apparently done -
install the VLS just above the wing gap seal. It seems OK to me,
although it is near the maximum height possible with the hardware
provided, so maybe flexes a bit more than it would if it were lower,
closer to the attachment point on the root tube.
HOWEVER, when I called BRS, Jeff there said that they prefer that the VLS
NOT BE MOUNTED ABOVE THE WING GAP SEAL, so that it didnt "catch air"
underneath it. I personally think this is not a huge concern, especially
if I reinforced the existing hardware (no exact plan on this yet).
Apparently, Doc hasnt had any problems (checked for signs of wear lately,
Doc?)
Now, point number two. I can actually see how having the VLS above the
wing gap seal MIGHT be a little more aerodynamic than having it in the
wing gap seal. Keep in mind whats in back of the VLS - the engine - a
big 912 in my case. I think you will agree that the engine is not
aerodynamic. So maybe, just maybe, the VLS in front of the engine might
smooth out the airflow around the engine a little and have overall
aerodynamics that are better than with the VLS down in the wing gap seal?
Its a possiblity...
So right now my VLS sits atop the wing gap seal, and really doesnt look
half bad. Should I do a bunch of work to stuff it down into the wing gap
seal or not? Im still thinking that one over. My wing gap seal has three
half ribs in it to help maintain the airfoil shape in front - one on each
side, and another in the middle. Got to move that middle one to make
room for the VLS if I go that way, and probably add a fourth on the
opposite side for symmetry. Can I bend my own to match, or do I need to
order one up and wait awhile for TNKolb? But thats getting onto another
current List thread isnt it? Excuse my long windedness.
Any more insights here or should we let this die?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Installation of Chute |
Leave it above the gapseal in front of the 912 as long as you do not plan
to put the radiator in between.
Frank R (buried VLS deep in front part of gapseal for improved airflow to
front mounted radiator).
Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 on 99/06/22 04:17:24 nm
Please respond to kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List:Installation of Chute
I would like to point out a couple more things about the VLS installation
in reference to the current discussion. First, given the configuration
of the steel cage on my Mrk III, the hardware from BRS that was a less
than perfect match with the plane, and the signficant reconfiguration of
the wing gap seal bracing required, I did what Doc has apparently done -
install the VLS just above the wing gap seal. It seems OK to me,
although it is near the maximum height possible with the hardware
provided, so maybe flexes a bit more than it would if it were lower,
closer to the attachment point on the root tube.
HOWEVER, when I called BRS, Jeff there said that they prefer that the VLS
NOT BE MOUNTED ABOVE THE WING GAP SEAL, so that it didnt "catch air"
underneath it. I personally think this is not a huge concern, especially
if I reinforced the existing hardware (no exact plan on this yet).
Apparently, Doc hasnt had any problems (checked for signs of wear lately,
Doc?)
Now, point number two. I can actually see how having the VLS above the
wing gap seal MIGHT be a little more aerodynamic than having it in the
wing gap seal. Keep in mind whats in back of the VLS - the engine - a
big 912 in my case. I think you will agree that the engine is not
aerodynamic. So maybe, just maybe, the VLS in front of the engine might
smooth out the airflow around the engine a little and have overall
aerodynamics that are better than with the VLS down in the wing gap seal?
Its a possiblity...
So right now my VLS sits atop the wing gap seal, and really doesnt look
half bad. Should I do a bunch of work to stuff it down into the wing gap
seal or not? Im still thinking that one over. My wing gap seal has three
half ribs in it to help maintain the airfoil shape in front - one on each
side, and another in the middle. Got to move that middle one to make
room for the VLS if I go that way, and probably add a fourth on the
opposite side for symmetry. Can I bend my own to match, or do I need to
order one up and wait awhile for TNKolb? But thats getting onto another
current List thread isnt it? Excuse my long windedness.
Any more insights here or should we let this die?
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi All;
Does anyone one have a use for a handheld King KX 99 Transceiver and
Helmet with mike and headset. The radio is $600.00 in CPS. Will sell all for
$300.00 plus shipping. Also some news on my FS2 , I called KOLB and ordered
the parts and new front cage section, got them last week. I am glad I ordered
them three weeks age by the way things sound. I worked all weekend and the
cage and tail are done and painted. The boom tube was supposed to come from
the manufacturer by truck, but three weeks now and no tube. I think they are
sending it by muletrain. As soon as I get the tube should be back in the air
in a couple of days, I can't wait.
Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drilling the cage |
For mounting the strobe box, I use a couple of Adell clamps (looks like a
capacitor clamp with a rubber inner ring) like used on da big planes.
Mounted these on tubes and a aluminum plate to them to which I mount the
strobe box. If you can get everything right you could just use the clamps.
Works great.
As far as ty-wraps I probably cut ours off a couple times before fore done
so unless you use only the ty-wrap mounts which your then insert a ty-wrap,
I wouldn't drill rivet holes in the frame.
JerryB
>
>I don't know about totally verboten ...probably the only real answer
>there is "it depends". No help, I know.
>I personally opted for avoiding holes. Instead, you can tie-wrap wire
>bundles and/or put them inside of a plastic tube perhaps. For something
>bigger or requiring more hefty attachment, I got into fiberglass methods.
>For my Kuntzleman strobe electronics box, I got a piece of foam board,
>glassed both sides, and epoxied (with microballoons) the board to the
>aircraft tubing. Worked great, looked nice. I also made fiberglass
>hardpoints, epoxied to the aircraft frame for brake cable stops.
>(These hardpoints were strong enf to rivet AL angle stock to, and
>they held up to pretty hard brake cable forces (crummy brakes,
>remember? :) ). During rebuild I may add brazed-on tabs
>where I now know I would like to attach things -- but I'm not yet
>sure about putting brazing heat to the middle of structural tubing
>members -- may be as bad or worse than holes.
>-Ben Ransom
>
>>
>>I'm installing the wire harness and voltage regulator in a FireFly. Is
>>it totally verboten to drill a few 1/8" rivet holes in the steel cage?
>>Aircraft Spruce sells cable ties that can be riveted in place (catalog
>>pg 360).
>>
>>Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
>>
>>Wally Hofmann
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Kent,
I am interested in the radio and helmet. Please give me a few details on the
helmet: Brand, size, color? Also, does this system work good together? How old
is the radio? I understand that they haven't had any design changes but the
nicads do age.
Good luck on getting back in the air.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
Hi Group:
Kudos to Esther and Bill at Kolb. They put much effort to assist me in
obtaining a gas cap for my AOG bird. Esther was kind, courteous and very
helpful. She researched a source and ultimately Bill located a cap that would
work. All this while in the midst of moving activities. Their service is
much appreciated.
Bill George
Mk-3, 582 "C"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: drilling the cage |
> As far as ty-wraps I probably cut ours off a couple times before fore done
> so unless you use only the ty-wrap mounts which your then insert a ty-wrap,
> I wouldn't drill rivet holes in the frame.
> JerryB
Definitely use the automotive split loom plastic to enclose the wires
and a few cable ties along the way.....much easier to add/subtract
wires later (inevitable). 3/4" split loom will give plenty of room.
As for drilling.....a really nice way to introduce water to the inside of
the cage tubing.....just what you really want............. ; )
J.Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio For Sale |
I have been using a KX99 for over 4 years. The NICADS seem to be just
fine, no sign of deterioration. You can also get a dry cell battery pack
for that radio (about $35) four years ago. It takes 8 AA cells and is
handy to have when you forget to recharge.
John Jung wrote:
> Kent,
>
> I am interested in the radio and helmet. Please give me a few details on
the
> helmet: Brand, size, color? Also, does this system work good together? How old
> is the radio? I understand that they haven't had any design changes but the
> nicads do age.
>
> Good luck on getting back in the air.
>
--
***********************************************
* Bill Weber * Keep *
* Voiceboard Corp * the shiny *
* Simi Valley, CA * side up *
***********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marcoa(at)aviation.denel.co.za (Marco Andreani) |
-----Original Message-----
From: Marco Andreani [SMTP:marcoa(at)aviation.denel.co.za]
Sent: 10 June 1999 02:53
Subject:
Please can you furnish me with the consequences of installing a rotax 912
instead of a rotax 582 on my mk3 KOLB.
Mass and cg
Engine installation.
Propeller change (I have a 3 blade prop)
Engine instrumentation.
I have read an article in an aircraft journal that specifies that Vne is
100 Mph instead of 90 mph as specified when I purchased the kit . Has the
envelope been expanded or is this a typing error .
Your assistance is always appreciated
Marco Andreani ( marcoa(at)aviation.denel.co.za)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal rigging MKIII |
I have now moved on to the rudder pedals and have a couple of questions.
Question 1: The manual says to clamp the pedals so they cannot move and
are in line, I just ran a tube through all 4 pedals horizontal tube and
that locked them in place. It seems that the pedals are too far forward
in relation to the heel brakes in that I really have to point one toe to
depress the pedal all the way. I could move both pedals back so they
are even fore and aft but then they are not the same height. How did
you folks rig the pedals, are they even in both front and back as well
as height in the neutral position? Question 2: The tangs (the steel
strips that have 3 holes for pedal adjustment) seem to line up better
with the fair leads if they are on the foot side of the pedal not
towards the middle of the airplane. Which side should they be on? If
any one has any "wish they would have dones" with regards to the rudder
system, please let me know?
Thanks for the help
Jason
MKIII engine?
________________________________________________________________________________
Lar
The power consumed by a transmitter is directly related to its radiated
power. You cannot compare the transmitters until you know the radiated
power. Also the technology used in the unit will impact the power
consumed. Older technology was generally less efficient. If the amperage
quoted was for your model number I would use it. Otherwise get the
specifications for the model.
Ron
>
>
>Got another one for ya, Kolbers. The guru at Narco Radio specified a 1 1/2
>amp. breaker for the radio. The other night I was going through back issues
>of Contact ! and found where someone had checked things out, and found that
>a regular aviation radio drew 2.8 amps on transmit. An e-mail to Narco last
>week has gotten no response, but it seems to me that if it draws 2.8 amps,
>then probably a 5 amp breaker would be appropriate. What do you think ??
>Big Lar.
>
>
>~~************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: drilling the cage |
> >
> >I'm installing the wire harness and voltage regulator in a FireFly. Is
> >it totally verboten to drill a few 1/8" rivet holes in the steel cage?
> >Aircraft Spruce sells cable ties that can be riveted in place (catalog
> >pg 360).
> >
> >Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
> >
Here is a picture of tie-wrap wire bundles.
http://members.aol.com/n8754k/page/tie.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOL file transfer |
To anyone running American On Line on a real computer.
If you have pictures you want to share with the rest of the Kolb list send me
an e-mail. I will show you how to upload them to your AOL web page
area(FTP). I maybe able to help you make a small web page.
Will Uribe
Finally did some work on my FireStar last night.
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
>
> I've found that if you try to send more than 1 attachment at a time to
> someone with aol, it chokes. Aol puts it into a mime file, and there you
> sit. We'll try that WinZip idea. Thanks. Also, a Lister has sent me
> several attachments, and when I try to open them, I get a blue field, with
a
> small planet and ring in the upper left.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | One more rudder thing MKIII |
I noticed that with the pedals in line with each other, the tangs are
not even. When the springs are attached, they want to hold the tangs
even and therefore apply left rudder as the plane sits on the ground. I
have seen pictures on the web of peoples airplanes, and it would appear
that sitting on the ground the rudder is centered, am I missing
something?
________________________________________________________________________________
Brian wrote:
>Well, now I get my turn at bad luck(sounds better than "I did something
>really stupid"). I decided to land on a road with a fence next to it.
Sorry to hear of your misfortune. A couple of years ago I hit my wingtip on
a post of a barbed wire fence. Fortunately I was only taxiing but it did
bring my attention to the wing tip brace on my right wing. I could tell it
was loose so I cut open the fabric and discovered the wing tip brace had
broken at the rivet and was rubbing against the spar. To replace the brace I
would have had to really open up the fabric which I hated to do so I called
Kolb and was informed that the brace is there primarily for the purpose of
keeping the wing tip straight when tightening the fabric. I tie-wrapped the
brace so it wouldn't rub against the spar but did not replace it. I am not
recommending this temporary fix but just wanted to let you know you are not
the only one with this problem.
Prior to the discovery of the broken brace I had flown approximately 300 hrs.
Since the discovery I have flown about 120 hrs. without any further problems.
Steve Anderson
Black Hills of South Dakota
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Installation of Chute |
Erich
I made my own mounting brackets and installed the VLS half in and half out of
the gap seal. With the 912 and the oil tank on the front of the 912, I had to
move the VLS forward further then the supplied brackets allowed. I think it is
even aerodynamic. See the following pics.
http://users.desupernet.com/tswartz/para.jpg
http://users.desupernet.com/tswartz/oil_cooler.jpg
If you want pics of the brackets, let my know. I have some somewhere.
Terry
Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 wrote:
>
> I ordered and received a BRS chute awhile back for my Mark III. Given
> the choice between the standard chute canister and the new Vertical
> Launch System (VLS)I opted for the VLS because it seemed a little more
> aerodynamic and it looked cool. The guy at BRS said either would work
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One more rudder thing MKIII |
No you haven't missed anything. The tangs are not necessarily even. I
added a link to the spring to even the pedal position for a neutral rudder.
Ron
>
>
>I noticed that with the pedals in line with each other, the tangs are
>not even. When the springs are attached, they want to hold the tangs
>even and therefore apply left rudder as the plane sits on the ground. I
>have seen pictures on the web of peoples airplanes, and it would appear
>that sitting on the ground the rudder is centered, am I missing
>something?
>
>~~************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CHRISTOPHER DAVIS" <cdavis2(at)capecod.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio For Sale |
Bill , I am also interested in the radio does it come with the charger if
not , excuse my lack of knowlege, how much does a charger go for thanks ,
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 1:06 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radio For Sale
>
>I have been using a KX99 for over 4 years. The NICADS seem to be just
>fine, no sign of deterioration. You can also get a dry cell battery pack
>for that radio (about $35) four years ago. It takes 8 AA cells and is
>handy to have when you forget to recharge.
>
>John Jung wrote:
>
>> Kent,
>>
>> I am interested in the radio and helmet. Please give me a few details
on the
>> helmet: Brand, size, color? Also, does this system work good together?
How old
>> is the radio? I understand that they haven't had any design changes but
the
>> nicads do age.
>>
>> Good luck on getting back in the air.
>>
>
>--
>***********************************************
>* Bill Weber * Keep *
>* Voiceboard Corp * the shiny *
>* Simi Valley, CA * side up *
>***********************************************
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: drilling the cage |
Re attaching wire guides to your FireFly airframe. I'm against drilling holes
in thinwall tubing because it usually reduces the integrity of the structure.
I made up some loops out of lexan and epoxied them in all the places I
thought I would need to support or tie down wiring. I made them by cutting
some 1/2 wide strips into ~ 2" lengths then heating them with a heat gun and
forming them to fit against the tubing. It probably took more time but the
Radio Shack stick-on type just didn't hold very well. For what it is worth.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One more rudder thing MKIII |
Jason Omelchuck wrote:
>
>
> I noticed that with the pedals in line with each other, the tangs are
> not even.
Jason -
( I just finished hooking up rudders on my Mark-3, so the details are
still fresh in my mind! )
You are correct: When you line up all four rudder pedals (I did it by
passing a quarter-inch rod thru all 4 of 'em), the attachment points on
the two center pedals for the tangs are about a half inch different,
fore/aft. This is fixed when you actually rig & swage the rudder
cables. In other words, one rudder cable will be a half inch longer
than the other when the rudder is all hooked up. When I was ready to
attach the rudder cables, I tied the now-rigid 4 rudder pedals as
tightly as I could (with rope) to the forward brace on the cage, in
order to immobilize the pedals. Then, swaging was a snap. Hope this
helps.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3 in Cedar Crest, New Mexico (65% done)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal rigging MKIII |
Hi Jason: I tried the rod thru 4 pedals trick, too, but I left the rod
in place, and went after the attachment points. Dropped the "tangs" down
about 2", drilled thru the right pilots' pedal shaft and the left
passengers' pedal shaft, then drilled holes in the passenger side tang about
1/2" behind each of the original 3 holes, to re-line everything back up. I
put the tangs on the "center" side of each shaft, so that the bolt heads are
about 3/8" apart. Seemed like my ankles were rubbing on the cables if I put
them on the "outside" of the shaft, and I felt it would be irksome after a
while. Also, while sitting in my shiny new bucket seat making vroom, vroom
noises, and wagging my shiny new rudder around, it felt sorta uncomfortable.
Ever try pedalling a bicycle with the pedals pressing on the arches of your
feet ?? Much more comfy to push the pedals with the balls of your feet.
So, I dropped the front of the floor by adding a 2" strip of aluminum across
the front, and rivetting it to the front side of the cross-piece, and
cutting clearance slots in the floor. MUCH better. My feeling on the
brakes is that my heels sit on the floor beside, and in front of the brake
pedals while using the pedals. When going for the brakes, slip your heels
back, and onto the pedals. Might just stir up some controversy there, but
my feeling is that you'll use brakes, or rudder - not both at once. Those I
sent my trim pics to can see this on #007 & #009. On the instrument panel
pics, #023, sorta. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 7:57 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Rudder Pedal rigging MKIII
>
> I have now moved on to the rudder pedals and have a couple of questions.
> Question 1: The manual says to clamp the pedals so they cannot move and
> are in line, I just ran a tube through all 4 pedals horizontal tube and
> that locked them in place. It seems that the pedals are too far forward
> in relation to the heel brakes in that I really have to point one toe to
> depress the pedal all the way. I could move both pedals back so they
> are even fore and aft but then they are not the same height. How did
> you folks rig the pedals, are they even in both front and back as well
> as height in the neutral position? Question 2: The tangs (the steel
> strips that have 3 holes for pedal adjustment) seem to line up better
> with the fair leads if they are on the foot side of the pedal not
> towards the middle of the airplane. Which side should they be on? If
> any one has any "wish they would have dones" with regards to the rudder
> system, please let me know?
>
> Thanks for the help
> Jason
> MKIII engine?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Major Milestones |
In a message dated 6/24/99 1:09:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time, RLCPTL(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< Today, my bride of almost 44 years went with me on her first flight in the
MKIII. In spite of 15 Kt. winds, she was really excited to go and
thoroughly
enjoyed a short - 40 minute - flight. This is the second major milestone to
report.
Keep your airspeed up guys;
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
>>
Ron, you are an interesting writer....keep up the good
work!!..............GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Please send pictures |
A couple of people sent me pictures of their MKIII in response to my
rudder question. Anyone out there that has pictures of a MKIII please
send them to me at jason(at)acuityinc.com I have a very wide band width
so large files are ok. Thank you for all the responses on rudder
rigging.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Major Milestones |
Ron,
Congratulations on the milestones and I applaud your patients with the FAA.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CHRISTOPHER DAVIS" <cdavis2(at)capecod.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio For Sale |
Hi Billl; what going on did you sellyour radio to John or nis the bidding
still open ? I really need a radio as my long term loaner must be returned
, have cash in hand , lwet me know , thanks Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 1:06 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radio For Sale
>
>I have been using a KX99 for over 4 years. The NICADS seem to be just
>fine, no sign of deterioration. You can also get a dry cell battery pack
>for that radio (about $35) four years ago. It takes 8 AA cells and is
>handy to have when you forget to recharge.
>
>John Jung wrote:
>
>> Kent,
>>
>> I am interested in the radio and helmet. Please give me a few details
on the
>> helmet: Brand, size, color? Also, does this system work good together?
How old
>> is the radio? I understand that they haven't had any design changes but
the
>> nicads do age.
>>
>> Good luck on getting back in the air.
>>
>
>--
>***********************************************
>* Bill Weber * Keep *
>* Voiceboard Corp * the shiny *
>* Simi Valley, CA * side up *
>***********************************************
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patty & Phil MacGregor" <pattym(at)lushen.com> |
Here's a question for you guys. This has been hashed over in the past but,
that little in line gas filter that most of us use contains a gremlin.
Should the gas completely fill the filter with no sign of air bubbles? I
have always run with about half of the filter containing air with no
problem ----till tonight!!~ I just put a new filter on and ran the engine
on the ground in the full rpm range and every thing looked good, (filter
half full of air). Hopped on and went to east end of runway. Took off to
the west and began a climbing turn to the right with engine at full. My
turn progressed to a south heading when the engine quit with about 500' alt.
I made a 90 degree turn to the right and a 180 degree turn to the left and
landed uneventfully back on the runway. (wha! did those shorts stink)
I got off and pulled the starter rope and the engine started and ran fine
but with about 80% air in the gas filter. Time for another new filter and
some good clamps.
Does anyone else have air in their gas filter when the engine is running?
BTW, I hate those quiet moments.
Phil MacGregor
Ultrastar-cuyuna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas filters. |
Hi Phil,
> Does anyone else have air in their gas filter when the engine is running?
>BTW, I hate those quiet moments.
>
>Phil MacGregor
>Ultrastar-cuyuna
Not only do I have air in the filter, there are usually bubbles in the fuel
line going to the filter. So far, no problems. I'm glad that you brought
this up as I've often wondered if the bubbles, or half filled filter, was
normal. Dennis, among others, what does the collective wisdom decree on
this? :)
Skip Staub
UltraStar-Cuyuna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas filters. |
>Not only do I have air in the filter, there are usually bubbles in the fuel
>line going to the filter. So far, no problems.
It has been my experience that air bubbles in the fuel line indicates
an air leak somewhere. Metal hose clamps do not do a real great job
of sealing the fuel line all the way around. Nylon clamps can break.
I have had excellent luck with the urethane fuel tubing that CPS or
Lockwood (among others) sells, and securing it with safety wire.
Wrap the safety wire two turns around the Urethane tubing
where it overlaps the fitting, and spin it tight with the safety
wire pliers. Then take needle nose pliers and bend the cut off
end over so that it is aimed back toward the tube rather than out,
otherwise you will slice yourself on it eventually.
Do not use this method on vinyl or soft plastic tubing, as the
safety wire can cut through it. In my experience, safety wire
can not be made to cut through urethane tubing, it will break first.
It is not good to have bubbles in your fuel line.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas filters. |
Patty & Phil MacGregor wrote:
> Here's a question for you guys. This has been hashed over in the past but,
> that little in line gas filter that most of us use contains a gremlin.
> Should the gas completely fill the filter with no sign of air bubbles? I
> have always run with about half of the filter containing air with no
> problem ----till tonight!!~ I just put a new filter on and ran the engine
> on the ground in the full rpm range and every thing looked good, (filter
> half full of air). Hopped on and went to east end of runway. Took off to
> the west and began a climbing turn to the right with engine at full. My
> turn progressed to a south heading when the engine quit with about 500' alt.
> I made a 90 degree turn to the right and a 180 degree turn to the left and
> landed uneventfully back on the runway. (wha! did those shorts stink)
> I got off and pulled the starter rope and the engine started and ran fine
> but with about 80% air in the gas filter. Time for another new filter and
> some good clamps.
> Does anyone else have air in their gas filter when the engine is running?
> BTW, I hate those quiet moments.
>
> Phil MacGregor
> Ultrastar-cuyuna
>
Phil - I'm glad you made it back on the ground OK. I was always taught to land
straight ahead when experiencing an engine out. Those corners can really eat up
altitude especially if you get fixated on the turn and forget to watch your
airspeed.
I completely eliminated the inline filter. The paper ones have a tendancy to
clog up with the parafin waxes in the fuel. They are not meant for oil/fuel
mixes either. I solved the challange with a 'gascolator' filter from a 2-cycle
Yamaha outboard engine. I mounted it just below the motor mount on my Firestar
and it has worked flawlessly for the last ten years. I like the feature on it
that allows me to unscrew the bowl before each flight to check for contaminents.
The filter inside the bowl is a plastic mesh screen and needs only a reverse
flush every so often.
Hope this helps. Fly safe and have fun.
Doug Murray FS 1 (Things sure look small from 10,000 ASL, don't they?)
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gas filters. |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Hi Phil,
My Kolb originally had the screen filter that was sent with the kit and I
flew with that for a year when I decided to switch to a paper filter
bought from CPS. Within 18 hrs of flight time the same thing happened,
the engine quit as I was in the pattern. I liked the idea of a paper
filter because of its superior filtering over a screen but the problem
with this type of filter is the small amount of surface area for the
mixed fuel to flow through. So I looked around at the local auto stores
and found a very large "universal" translucent paper filter that would do
the job. I change this out annually and this has worked for me now for 12
years. I try to tell every pilot I come in contact with not to use those
small paper filters because of the hazard of clogging up. The large ones
have enough surface area inside where this will not be a problem. One
more thing, the filters come in 1/4" or 5/16". Choose the 5/16", they
will have a tighter fit on the fuel line.
My filter has air inside too and up until 2 years ago the fuel line into
the carb also had bubbles. I never had a problem with the bubbles but I
found one way to get rid of them was to cover the fuel line at the input
and output of the pump with heat shrink tubing, to protect the fuel line,
and use automotive screw type hose clamps. Before using the heat shrink,
black electrical tape also worked but didn't look as nice. The plastic
rachet ones don't clamp tight enough at these points and will leak air.
The pump is the only place where I use the screw clamps (in, out, and
pulse), everywhere else I use the plastic rachets.
I find that standard black auto fuel line for the pump pulse line works
great. The hose is heavy enough that heat shrink tubing is not necessary.
Hope this helps .....
I'm working on the FireStar today getting ready for a trip to AirVenture
99.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
>that little in line gas filter that most of us use contains a gremlin.
>Should the gas completely fill the filter with no sign of air bubbles?
>Phil MacGregor
>Ultrastar-cuyuna
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
I have heard on this list and elsewhere that we are supposed to use a
higher concentration of oil during engine break in. Also that we should
use mineral oil rather than a synthetic. I have not been able to find
these mentioned anywhere in the Rotax manual. On gasoline mixing, it
only says that the engine is intended to run with 2% oil.
Can someone point me to a reference giving the proper oil mixture for
break in?
Thanks.
--
***********************************************
* Bill Weber * Keep *
* Voiceboard Corp * the shiny *
* Simi Valley, CA * side up *
***********************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gas filters. |
I replaced the filter that came with the kit with one from Purolator. It
has a glass housing that allows you to see the screen and monitor it for
contaminants. I also use a Mr. Funel to filter the Amoco Ultimate between the
pump and the gas can. I have never had any problem with the fuel system. You
can get the Purolator filter at just about any auto parts store. CPS and
Aircraft Spruce also sell them, although they are more expensive
there. Rick Klebon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Break in |
<< I have heard on this list and elsewhere that we are supposed to use a
higher concentration of oil during engine break in. Also that we should
use mineral oil rather than a synthetic. >>
FWIW--------My Rotax manual says to use a high grade two cycle oil designed
for severe service in AIR COOLED engines. I chose to use Pennzoil. Rotax
reccomends gasoline not below MON 83 or RON 90. I use Amoco premium. The
mix ratio is 50 parts of fuel to 1 part oil. (50:1) That is what I used
during the break-in and for normal flying. I now have 320 hours on my Rotax
377 with no problems.
People, with more intelligence than I, have stated DO NOT use a higher
concentration of oil as it will cause the engine to run hotter. I never
fully understood why, but I know its not a good thing for the engine.
If you don't have a copy of the California Power Systems catalog, get one.
There is a wealth of information in there about "The Proper Care and Feeding
of the Rotax Engine, by Mike Stratman, CPS President and Rotax expert.
Good Luck
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ
Original FireStar 377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas filters. |
>
> I replaced the filter that came with the kit with one from Purolator. It
>has a glass housing that allows you to see the screen and monitor it for
>contaminants.
I had the same filter...but afer two years, the glass cracked and started
leaking around the "O" rings. Wastn't flying it at the time, but could
have been a Real problem.
I know it looks really neat, but after that I don't want anything glass,
"O" rings or other parts inside that they have had to send an "advisory"
out on, to have it safety wired to keep the nut inside the glass from
rotating down over the gas intake hole.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Geoff,
Thanks for pointing this out. I dug through some archives on my hardrive
and found an email you sent last January about using auto fuel line for
the pulse line. What you are saying is true, that "some" auto fuel line
has an inner lining that could come loose and inhibit the vacuum action
of the pulse line. Obviously not all automotive fuel line is the same and
if the type with a single-wall ply can be found, this is far superior to
the clear fuel line used for this purpose. This line needs to rigid
enough to withstand the pulsing action from the engine. The flexible
clear line does not have the rigid wall thickness the "single-ply" auto
fuel line has and cannot take the heat of the engine without breaking
down (ie turns black near the engine). The auto fuel line is proven to
withstand the heat and has the rigid wall thickness for this purpose.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 19:42:54 +0800
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel lines
Be careful with standard auto fuel line, with the suck and blow of pulse
line some have be known to lose some of the inner lining and get blocked
in
the line. Read the last 50 or so pages in the CPS catalogue and you will
find some very useful info.
writes:
>The black fuel line you mention for pulse line has in the past caused
>problems.
>
>Have a look at the following information.
>
>http://www.rotax-owner.com/
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gas filters. |
BKlebon(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I replaced the filter that came with the kit with one from Purolator. It
> has a glass housing that allows you to see the screen and monitor it for
***********************
Good morning:
Recommend replacing glass tube with a .058 X 7/8 alum tube,
same length.
I have used this type filter since 1984 on Ultrastar,
Firestar, and MK III. I mean I am still using the original
filter I bought in '84 for my MK III. I installed it on the
Ultrastar one afternoon, returned the next morning to fly
and all my fuel was on the ground. The glass tube cracked
by its lonesome overnight. I know that many are in use on
all types of vehicles, including some airplanes and are
having no problem. But mine crapped out before I had a
chance to fly with it and so did Possum's. Why take the
chance. I can not seen inside my filter without taking it
apart, but it only takes a minute to inspect.
My filter housing has aprx 2,500 hours on it. I change the
filter about every 100 hours or so. In all those hours and
in many different geographical areas I have had the filter
clog and cause a forced landing only once, on departure from
Lake Texoma to Alabama.
It is easy to carry a couple spare elements, they are small.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Morning Kolb Gang:
I returned from an 8 day trip last night late. Before I
went to bed something told me to scan the the FAA Accident
Rpts and the NTSB Summaries.
Last Sunday, Rick Libersat, one of our guys, crashed his MK
III. Rick is in the hospital with a broken back and
finger. He was wearing a helmet which prevented further
injury. Rick had recently replaced the 582 on his MK III
with a 912. I did some detective work and talked to him in
his hosp room this morning. He is doing well with two
titanium rods inserted in his back and a crooked finger. He
told me it was pilot error, got into a stall and didn't
recover before impact with the top of a 75 ft pine and the
ground.
For the List info the FAA web page is:
http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/iirform.htm
and the NTSB page is:
http://www.ntsb.gov/aviation/months.htm
I usually check these two sites daily. Somehow they help
keep me honest and fly with a little bit more care.
Rick's hosp rm number is: 409-899-8267
john h
PS: I wasn't able to make the Texoma Flyin this year for
several reasons. I guess it worked out ok cause the weather
between here and there has not been conducive to fun flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DRMusgrove(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Lots of fuel stuff... |
Hi guys 'n gals!
Wow! Great bunch of fuel-related stuff coming thru on the posts. BTW - if
you're wondering why my posts are slightly delayed and in bulk form - it's
because of using the List Digest Mode. I love it! Digest mode certainly
keeps my mailbox cleaner! Anyway, from both personal experience and from my
respected technical grapevine - my 2 on some of these issues:
Ralph sez:
> ...cover the fuel line
at the input
> and output of the pump with heat shrink tubing, to protect the fuel line,
> and use automotive screw type hose clamps. Before using the heat shrink,
> black electrical tape also worked but didn't look as nice. The plastic
> ratchet ones don't clamp tight enough at these points and will leak air.
A great solution, Ralph! I have found it easier to use a short piece of
snug-fitting larger tubing instead of shrink tubing or tape, i.e., for 1/4"
line I will use a piece of 1/2" line over it. As with Ralph's solution, this
'tube over tube' method helps to retain the 1/4" line, spreads the clamping
pressure evenly and protects the section from chafing or cutting by the
clamps. I *never* allow any bubbles in the fuel lines and use these sleeves
at every connection. Simple, fast and reliable.
Rick sez:
> I replaced the filter that came with the kit with one from Purolator. It
> has a glass housing that allows you to see the screen and monitor it for
> contaminants. I also use a Mr. Funnel to filter the Amoco Ultimate between
the
> pump and the gas can. I have never had any problem with the fuel system.
and then Possum sez:
> I had the same filter...but afer two years, the glass cracked and started
> leaking around the "O" rings. Wastn't flying it at the time, but could
> have been a Real problem.
> I know it looks really neat, but after that I don't want anything glass,
> "O" rings or other parts inside that they have had to send an "advisory"
> out on, to have it safety wired to keep the nut inside the glass from
> rotating down over the gas intake hole.
Hmmm. I agree with both of these guys as follows: I use the Purolator
filter *but* I service it every 50 hours and use silicone grease on the
O-rings or replace 'em. I use the safety wire too. And I don't over-tighten
on hardened seals so the glass cracks (yeah, I did that too). Pain in the
butt. However, I like to see what's going on in there and it has 'saved' me
twice because I could. Once was chunks of dragonfly (no - I don't know how
he got in there either) and once was a huge amount of water on a
cross-country refuel that, had I not seen the water filling the filter, I
would have had an engine-out. I landed on a levee and must've drained 10 or
12 ounces of water from the system. =:
O I always use a
water-seperator/filter funnel, but, didn't have it with me on the
cross-country. Now I carry one in the plane with me! BTW - you don't have
to spend big $ on a Mr. Funnel doohickey. Any funnel with a fine (I like
brass) filter screen will stop water IF the screen gets wet with fuel first -
then water won't want to pass.
If you don't want to use the renewable filters, I would agree with using
oversize ones like Ralph says and throw them away every 50 hours. Sump
drains and gascolators are good ideas too. Is this overkill or is it cheap
insurance? Been there - done that. For me it's cheap insurance.
Bill sez:
> People, with more intelligence than I, have stated DO NOT use a higher
> concentration of oil as it will cause the engine to run hotter. I never
> fully understood why, but I know its not a good thing for the engine.
Ahhhh... the reason for this List! None of us should be relying on greater
intelligence here, as common sense and intellect often do not correlate (in
an obvious way) with what actually happens in the real world. I am not
totally stupid, yet, my assumptions have occasionally gone awry for me and I
have found that shared info (like this forum) are a more reliable way to get
us where we need to go with less brain-strain. In response to your statement
(simplistic): More oil = less fuel (per volume) = leaner mixture into the
engine = hotter burning. Not to mention the loads of carbon that are added
in the process. 2-stroke oil systems are *not* a case of "if a little is
good - more is better". There goes that assumption stuff - right out the
window! :
)
Okay, I think that's about 6 of input. Now a Q. Has anyone found a fuel
shutoff that either doesn't start leaking after a while or (preferably) one
that has renewable seals?
I'm outa here - gotta fly!
David M.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire changes |
Richard Bluhm wrote:
This
> person say's the tire should just fall off the rim once you remove the
> bolts...
Richard and Kolbers:
Wish the above statement were true. The last set of tires I
removed from Matco Rims required a die grinder with cut off
disc to cut the tire's wire bead in order to remove from the
split rims.
At Sun and Fun this year, Travis (New Kolb Aircraft supply
man) and I worked up a god sweat pulling the tire off a pair
of Azusa split rims.
You buddy must be using 8 inch tires on our 6 inch rims.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lots of fuel stuff... |
> Okay, I think that's about 6 of input. Now a Q. Has anyone found a fuel
> shutoff that either doesn't start leaking after a while or (preferably) one
> that has renewable seals?
>
> I'm outa here - gotta fly!
> David M.
>
David and Kolbers:
I have been using nylon fuel shutoff valves for lawn
mowers. Hve been in use on my MK III since 1992 with no
problems. Any lawn mower shop has them for 3 or 4 dollars.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: MK III Accident |
>Last Sunday, Rick Libersat, one of our guys, crashed his MK
>III. Rick is in the hospital with a broken back and
This is tough stuff! Real sorry to hear about Rick. Hope the
recovery puts him back to good health. We had two local
aquaintenances killed a week ago in a C-182 accident. I'm having
trouble with this one because I know the pilot was very
conservative, always safety conscious. We gotta be so damn
careful!! I think the slow speed of our planes is a huge safety
feature.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire changes |
On removing tires ...yes, this is a Workout! I have Azusa 6" split
rims and have used 2 different size tires -- makes no difference, it
is a tough job. I always carried a tube patch kit on my XC flights
into the sticks, and one day at home found that was mostly a waste
as my first attempt to remove a tire took most of a Saturday.
My early efforts at this were to hammer on a piece of oak hardwood
placed on the tire, moving around the rim as I hit it down. Also
had added soapy water and placed the whole thing on a board or
rag to prevent damage to the underside of the rim. I found a
better way though, and that is to work around the rim using the
thinned down piece of hardwood as a lever. Work it (or at first a
rag covered big screwdriver) and lever the tire rim down. It also
helps to stand on the tire to add force to moving the tire rim down.
Them suckers are on there Tight, but the pry method works best for me.
BTW, I've had plenty of experience with this because I used to have
problems with the low pressure tundra tires inching the tube around
inside, eventually pulling at the valve stem. I finally solved this
problem by scuff sanding the tube and inside surface of the tire, and
applying contact cement. It is not a permanent bond, but makes it
sticky enf to solve that problem.
-Ben Ransom
>
>Hey Guys
>I have been having a discussion with a list member (off list) about
>changing tires. I am under the opinion (with experience) that it is
>difficult to remove our tires (Tundra or regular) from our rims.. This
>person (who has never changed a tire) say's it should be easy to remove
>a tire from a split rim due to the split rim itself...
>I was advised to get other opinions about this. So here's my question:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MK III Accident |
John, could you put up Rick's home address so we (or at least I) could
send him a card? Much obliged.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire changes |
Doc, ck the archives because a long discussion went on abt 10 mos. ago.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
About difficult tire changes:
I wish to thank you guys for your responses.
The (unnamed) person involved has let me know he now see's the picture.
I didn't want to use you people to prove a point, but to help someone
know the truth.
Thanks again
Doc
Do no archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skips(at)bhip.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire changes |
Gents,
>>This
>>person (who has never changed a tire) say's it should be easy to remove
>>a tire from a split rim due to the split rim itself...
What that person said is true if applied to GA wheels. Remove the bolts
holding the rims together and the wheel splits apart quite easily. This
certainly doesn't hold true for the wheels on my riding lawnmower or from
the sounds of it on most Kolb aircraft.
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: MK III Accident |
Sorry to hear about Rick's accident. I wish him a speedy recovery. I have
lost several friends to airplane accidents. These guys were probably like
Rick, competent and safety conscious, but happened to be in the wrong place
at the wrong time. I'm finding that General Aviation puts much more pressure
and responsibility on us than military or airline flying. Later on maybe Rick
can put his story up for us and we can add his experience to our knowledge
base.
Get well and get airborne again soon Rick.
Bill George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire changes |
The last set of tires I removed from Matco Rims required
a die grinder with cut off disc to cut the tire's wire bead in order
to remove from the split rims.
One of the guys I flew to Oshkosh with last year has made a "bead breaker."
Take a hunk of 3/4" to 1" plywood (thicker is better)
and cut a circle in it just a tiny bit bigger around than the wheel.
Let the air out of the tire. Lay the plywood over the wheel/tire
so that the wheel is centered in the opening.
Drive your truck onto the plywood next to the wheel.
Up here in Tennessee we don't fool around...
Disclaimer: Be careful with soft aluminum rims!
If she don't let go, you can bend things!
Richard Pike
MKIII 420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)tcac.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire changes |
>What that person said is true if applied to GA wheels. Remove the bolts
>holding the rims together and the wheel splits apart quite easily. This
>certainly doesn't hold true for the wheels on my riding lawnmower or from
>the sounds of it on most Kolb aircraft.
About GA wheels, the wheel halves will seperate, but the tire don't turn
loose of the wheel halves. I've changed many of them, and it is always a
struggle to seperate the wheel from the tire. The problem is the same with
any type of split wheel or rim I've ever worked with from Honda 3-wheelers
to Mack 18 wheelers (the old ones). Over a period of time, being inflated
on the rim, the bead of the tire sets up on the metal of the wheel, just as
if it had been glued on.
Tom King
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MK III Accident |
This is terrible news. I've spoken to " Rick106 " so many times, both on
and off the List, that I feel like we're old friends. Thank you John, for
the news. I hope future installments are all positive.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 1999 9:08 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: MK III Accident
>
> Morning Kolb Gang:
>
> I returned from an 8 day trip last night late. Before I
> went to bed something told me to scan the the FAA Accident
> Rpts and the NTSB Summaries.
>
> Last Sunday, Rick Libersat, one of our guys, crashed his MK
> III. Rick is in the hospital with a broken back and
> finger. He was wearing a helmet which prevented further
> injury. Rick had recently replaced the 582 on his MK III
> with a 912. I did some detective work and talked to him in
> his hosp room this morning. He is doing well with two
> titanium rods inserted in his back and a crooked finger. He
> told me it was pilot error, got into a stall and didn't
> recover before impact with the top of a 75 ft pine and the
> ground.
>
> For the List info the FAA web page is:
>
> http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/iirform.htm
>
> and the NTSB page is:
>
> http://www.ntsb.gov/aviation/months.htm
>
> I usually check these two sites daily. Somehow they help
> keep me honest and fly with a little bit more care.
>
> Rick's hosp rm number is: 409-899-8267
>
> john h
>
> PS: I wasn't able to make the Texoma Flyin this year for
> several reasons. I guess it worked out ok cause the weather
> between here and there has not been conducive to fun flying.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lots of fuel stuff... |
Which fuel shutoff would be a good question - if I used one. My new-to-me
Mk II has never had one. Just another item for the checklist, something
else to leak? Should I install one?
David (gonna be airborne soon - when I can't find one more thing to fix!)
Bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lots of fuel stuff... |
David,
My idea is to "Keep it simple". It is not only one more thing to forget,
but if you do forget it, it will stop your engine at the worst possible time,
right after takeoff. Besides that, when the tanks are below the engine, what do
we need with a fuel shut off?
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Firestar.html/
David Bruner wrote:
>
> Which fuel shutoff would be a good question - if I used one. My new-to-me
> Mk II has never had one. Just another item for the checklist, something
> else to leak? Should I install one?
>
> David (gonna be airborne soon - when I can't find one more thing to fix!)
> Bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lots of fuel stuff... |
In a message dated 99-06-28 9:11:39 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrjung(at)execpc.com writes:
<< Besides that, when the tanks are below the engine, what do
we need with a fuel shut off? >>
I just went through my FAA airworthiness inspection (and and passed). The
Allentown PA MIDO will require you to have a fuel shut off, as will the
Baltimore MIDO. They want to know that you have a way to shut off the fuel
in the event of some kind of emergency.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Updated Firestar page |
Group,
I have finally updated my Firestar web page to the Firestar II that I have
been flying for over a year. Previously, my home page was used to sell my
origianl Firestar, which Adan Violet bought last June. Aso on my page is the
Kolb List Map and a Garmin page that describes how I program Garmin GPS units
that come with no aviation database. My home pages is www.execpc.com/~jrjung/
Constructive comments will be appreciated.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Bill's oil question |
Bill wrote:
>I have heard on this list and elsewhere that we are supposed to use a
>higher concentration of oil during engine break in. Also that we should
>use mineral oil rather than a synthetic. I have not been able to find
>these mentioned anywhere in the Rotax manual. On gasoline mixing, it
>only says that the engine is intended to run with 2% oil.
>Can someone point me to a reference giving the proper oil mixture for
>break in?
Bill, I think you must be thinking of the oil-injected engine procedure. On the
injected engines, some people (and maybe the Rotax manual) recommend using
premixed fuel in the tank to ensure lubrication until you can verify the injex
system is pumping oil to both intakes, and all the air is out. The result is
that you have twice the normal oil rate. I did this for the first tank and had
no problems.
Check your owner's manual for your model details. As for synthetics, you're
right, they don't recommend using them until after break-in, apparently because
they don't let the rings seat as well due to their higher film strength. You
want some wear initially to make the parts polish each other to a well-sealing
fit. I found that the 582 kept gaining power for 13 operating hours using the
Rotax (mineral-based) injection oil. After that, the power output stabilized
and I switched to Synthetic. To do this, I drained and cleaned the injection
system and replaced with Syn oil, and ran some syn oil premix again, until air
out.
jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Firestar page |
Well, Hell, you're just a kid. Thought you was an old fart, like the rest
of us. I like your layout. Easy to navigate through, and quick
to download. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Monday, June 28, 1999 7:28 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Updated Firestar page
>
> Group,
>
> I have finally updated my Firestar web page to the Firestar II that I
have
> been flying for over a year. Previously, my home page was used to sell my
> origianl Firestar, which Adan Violet bought last June. Aso on my page is
the
> Kolb List Map and a Garmin page that describes how I program Garmin GPS
units
> that come with no aviation database. My home pages is
www.execpc.com/~jrjung/
> Constructive comments will be appreciated.
>
> John Jung
> Firestar II N6163J
> SE Wisconsin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Firestar page |
Group,
I should have included the full address for my web page, so that it could
just be clicked on.
Here it is: http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/
John Jung
John Jung wrote:
>
> Group,
>
> I have finally updated my Firestar web page to the Firestar II that I have
> been flying for over a year. Previously, my home page was used to sell my
> origianl Firestar, which Adan Violet bought last June. Aso on my page is the
> Kolb List Map and a Garmin page that describes how I program Garmin GPS units
> that come with no aviation database. My home pages is www.execpc.com/~jrjung/
> Constructive comments will be appreciated.
>
> John Jung
> Firestar II N6163J
> SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lots of fuel stuff... |
Cavuontop,
Do you take the fuel out the top or bottom of the tank? Maybe I could
understand their concern if it is the bottom. Mine have no holes in the botton
and pasted airworthyness last year ( Milwaukee FSDO).
John Jung
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I just went through my FAA airworthiness inspection (and and passed). The
> Allentown PA MIDO will require you to have a fuel shut off, as will the
> Baltimore MIDO. They want to know that you have a way to shut off the fuel
> in the event of some kind of emergency.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lots of fuel stuff... |
While keeping it simple is a good idea I think the addition of a fuel shutoff
is mandatory. I have never flown an airplane without one. There are many
scenarios which would indicate a need for one.
1. Fire. A fuel fed fire is a bad thing.
2. Leaks. Even on the ground a leak could fill your trailer or hangar with
fuel just waiting for a source of combustion.
3. Maintenance Changing of a sump filter, pump or other part is easier if you
can shut off the fuel.
As for forgetting to turn it on; that should be on your check list. Just my 2
cents.
Bill George
Mk-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lots of fuel stuff... |
In a message dated 99-06-28 11:27:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrjung(at)execpc.com writes:
<< Do you take the fuel out the top or bottom of the tank? >>
Yes, I feed from the bottom and have shut off valves with finger strainers.
I am generally happy with the set up and like the idea of beng able to shut
off the fuel. I also like the idea of a finger strainer in the tank. FUEL
ON is part of my preflight checklist and FUEL OFF is part of my shutdown
checklist. If there ever was a leak in the line while the plane was stored I
wouldn't spill fuel all over the inside.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Updated Firestar page |
Hi John,
My name is Bill Beams. I just read all you Web Page, and would
like to say that is looks great, even for a grandfather.
I am a new Firestar I owner, located in the middle of Kentucky, about
one hour from the New Kolb plant. The new owner is a friend of mine.
He talked me into buy an ultra light, and I am glad he did. They are a
great bunch of guys. I hope they become successful with their new
endeavor.
Thought you might put me on your map, as I see central KY is open.
You FSII looks great.
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CHRISTOPHER DAVIS" <cdavis2(at)capecod.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio For Sale |
Kent ,did you sell your radio yet ? I need one < sounds like a deal.! Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenmead(at)aol.com <Kenmead(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 8:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Radio For Sale
>
>Hi All;
> Does anyone one have a use for a handheld King KX 99 Transceiver and
>Helmet with mike and headset. The radio is $600.00 in CPS. Will sell all
for
>$300.00 plus shipping. Also some news on my FS2 , I called KOLB and ordered
>the parts and new front cage section, got them last week. I am glad I
ordered
>them three weeks age by the way things sound. I worked all weekend and the
>cage and tail are done and painted. The boom tube was supposed to come from
>the manufacturer by truck, but three weeks now and no tube. I think they
are
>sending it by muletrain. As soon as I get the tube should be back in the
air
>in a couple of days, I can't wait.
>
>
> Kent
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CHRISTOPHER DAVIS" <cdavis2(at)capecod.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio For Sale |
Hi , kolbers , well after I sent my iquirey to to wrong person it turns out
the right person," Kent"sold the radio< so does anyone else on the list
have an inexpensive radio for sale?? quiert little Chatham air port is a mad
house in the summer!!! With all the retired Drs. etc buzzing around in thier
Mooneys and such >Ireally need one Thanks Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: CHRISTOPHER DAVIS <cdavis2(at)capecod.net>
Date: Monday, June 28, 1999 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radio For Sale
>
>Kent ,did you sell your radio yet ? I need one < sounds like a deal.!
Chris
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Kenmead(at)aol.com <Kenmead(at)aol.com>
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 8:00 PM
>Subject: Kolb-List: Radio For Sale
>
>
>>
>>Hi All;
>> Does anyone one have a use for a handheld King KX 99 Transceiver and
>>Helmet with mike and headset. The radio is $600.00 in CPS. Will sell all
>for
>>$300.00 plus shipping. Also some news on my FS2 , I called KOLB and
ordered
>>the parts and new front cage section, got them last week. I am glad I
>ordered
>>them three weeks age by the way things sound. I worked all weekend and the
>>cage and tail are done and painted. The boom tube was supposed to come
from
>>the manufacturer by truck, but three weeks now and no tube. I think they
>are
>>sending it by muletrain. As soon as I get the tube should be back in the
>air
>>in a couple of days, I can't wait.
>>
>>
>> Kent
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ULPilot(at)navix.net |
I just got back from Lake Texoma and I wanted to share a few thoughts with
the list, as we have plenty of tech. stuff on the list but the FUN part
gets glossed over all to often. Delete this now if it's not your cup of tea.
I started planning to attend the Lake Texoma UL Gathering last year, after
fellow list member John Hauck wrote about his trip there. I had also met
Sam Cox, the Dallas/Ft. Worth USUA club president and the man behind the
fly-in, at the last couple of USUA annual meetings. I had promised Sam back
in Feb. that I would attend this year's fly-in and all my efforts were
focused in that direction.
Then, last week, two days before my scheduled departure in my FireStar,
disaster struck. My best friend died at age 44 of a heart attack. His
funeral would be Friday in Denver, so any chance of me taking my plane were
gone. After doing lots of soul searching and map reading, I decided to
attend the funeral then drive to the fly-in. I left Thursday, not flying my
FireStar towards Texas as planned, but driving my truck towards Denver and
a Friday morning funeral. Anyway, I finally got out of Denver at about
3:30pm Friday (I had hoped to be gone no later than 1) and drove until
dark. I spent the night somewhere in Kansas and then drove the rest of the
way to Lake Texoma on Saturday.
I got there about 2pm Saturday afternoon and I was really inpressed.
Imagine the Marshall, Michigan fly-in over Labor Day and place it on a
3,000' grass runway that ends at the edge of a huge lake. Carrier take-offs
and landings (coming in over the water) were the order of the day. More ULs
than I could count (I stopped at 50) were parked along the strip and the
strip was at a resort, so of course there was a sandy beach beside the lake
end of the strip (swim, float and watch the airplanes land while staying
cool), boats and ski-doos for rent and 8 elevated, air conditioned cabins
with shaded porches that overlooked the middle of the airstrip. Literally
one of the absolute best airports I've ever been at. The heat was bad but
not oppressive (89 with 88% humidity, last year they were in the middle of
a heat wave and it was 104 or hotter each day) but I popped out in sweat
(like everyone else) immediately. Sam Cox latched on to me and showed me
all over. He was glad I made it. I had called and told him I would be there
Sat. afternoon at the earliest.
Kolbs were VERY much in evidence. There was everything from an old
UltraStar (doing MILD aerobatics) to a FireFly, a FireStar (actually I saw
at least 3 FireStars) and even a Mark II (not a 3, a 2) and I also got to
meet several of the list members. It was very good meeting them and being
able to put faces with the names I get over my computer but I've got to
tell you guys that you sure LOOK different than how I saw you in my
imaginings. I didn't get to meet John Hauck but I ran into the rest of the
Alabama group at the campground. Lindy Linderman was holding down the fort
for the flyers from Alabama (or flyer, I should say, as only one made it
due to bad weather). I forget his name right now but he had trailered his
FireStar in from Alabama with Lindy. They had hit a railroad tie somewhere
along the road and his boom tube was dented in 3 places. He had consulted
several people and he was still flying it when I left on Sunday.
Anyway, I had time to meet lots of Texas & Oklahoma flyers and renew some
old friendships. One good thing was the Texas folks had rented ALL 8 of the
elevated, AIR-CONDITIONED cabins for the week-end and everyone was able to
come and use them as needed. It was great being able to go somewhere to
cool down when the heat got to you. I took my swimsuit but I didn't get in
the lake (just not enough time).
I stayed up until 2:30am talking with several of the great people who make
my sport so wonderful. It was a good discussion and several plans were
hatched for the upcoming "new century". As always, it seems more change is
in the air. I was planning on getting a motel for the night but due to the
late time I figured why waste $$$ to use a room for 4-5 hours so I slept in
my truck cab. Not too bad but I didn't sleep worth crap. Too many thoughts
and it was still warm & muggy. I got up at 5:15 as it was first light and
there is always one of THEM at a fly-in (you know, THEM: regulations say I
can fly at first light, BY GOD I'M FLYING at first light).
Sunday morning a couple of groups from farther away started heading home. I
decided to head home even though I had planned to stay for another day. If
I had my plane, I would have stayed as planned but I realized here I am,
stuck on the ground, wishing like hell I was flying. I made my good byes
and headed out at 8:30 and I got back to Lincoln around 5:30, not bad for a
600 mile trip. I immediately went out and flew my FireStar all around my
area. No, it WASN'T Lake Texoma but at least I was flying and I knew I had
shared in a special event.
And why am I writing this? To get all of YOU to start planning to attend
next year's Lake Texoma UL Gathering, of course. The area is beautiful,
there is lots of stuff for the whole family to do and there will be many,
many like minded people there, having fun just flying and being with each
other.
I do want to give a big THANK YOU to all the list members I met and to all
the hard working volunteers who make it all happen.
Fly safe! Back to deep lurker mode!
See you in the sky!
Ray Abbruzzese
Lincoln, Nebraska, USA
Kolb FireStar owner/pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I just got back from Lake Texoma and I wanted to share a few thoughts with
the list, >>
Good report Ray
I always like to hear what is going on at other fly-ins around the country.
Everybody, keep them coming!
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ USA
Original FireStar 377
320 + hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Check out The New Kolb Aircraft Home Page |
The New Kolb Aircraft has been updated.
http://www.tnkolbaircraft.com
Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyboy(at)sssnet.com |
People:
My friend has informed me he is selling his Mk-3. It is a beautiful
airplane, w/flaps, and tinted windows. It is also N-numbered.
He is not on the list but asked me to let people know. His name is Joe
Lapanja, and his phone number is 330-837-8580, for more information.
His asking price is 14, but a savy buyer might get it for less.
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: jung web site |
Thanks to each that has given me input on my Firestar web page. I am a little
surprised, but encouraged, by the positive responses. One of the reasons that I
didn't update it before is that I am not satisfied with the quality of the
pictures. I don't have a scanner and my digital camera has a few problems. Today
I added back a picture of the original Firestar that I sold to list member Adam
Violet. With it is the story of my flight to 17,000 ASL. Newer members, that
haven't read about it before, may be interested:
http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Original.html
The picture of the original Firestar was scanned from a photo and it has good
resolution.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hegar wheels |
| From: | Jon D LaVasseur <lavasseur(at)juno.com> |
Hi folks, A week ago I posted a note asking if anyone knew the address
for the Hegar Wheel Company. Ralph Burlingame advised me that the
message did get posted but I never received any replies. I am not
complaining about the response but I have had some trouble connecting to
my email account so it is possible that there have been replies that I
did not receive.
I am looking for the address and phone number of the manufacture of the
Hegar aluminum wheels. I have a technical question that dealers are not
able to answer.
If you were able and kind enough to help me a few days ago, will you try
again?
Thanks
Firestar 503, Plymouth and McGregor, Minnesota
lavasseur(at)juno.com.
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hegar wheels |
Jon,
Try this:
Hegar 4 Product OR
503/659-1234
fax 503/650/6953
Manufacture 6" spun aluminum wheels and disc brake assemblies. All parts are
CNC machined for perfect
fit and maximum strength.
I did a search on AltaVista.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Prop bolt specification. |
When ordering new prop bolts (maybe longer ones for use with a spacer) , what do
I ask for? The length I will determine of course, but what are the diameter and
pitch of the ones that fit the Rotax 75mm bolt circle? If I say 8mm, is that
enough to tell the supplier the desired thread pitch?
How about recommendations on the grade bolt that should be used for a propeller?
Too hard would seem like a bad idea, right? More malleable might keep it
together better than a hard brittle bolt (like grade five can bend but not break
like a grd 8 would).??? I suppose they are graded in the metric system.
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 <sbaew(at)dames.com> |
| Subject: | Re: radio compatibility |
Hey radio heads:
I purchased a David Clark headset and an Icom aviation radio several
months ago that work great. When I got it, I noted that the plug that
connects the headset to the Icom radio also fits my Radio Shack handheld
2-meter ham radio (yes, Im licensed for that). I thought this would be
great, since I already have two of the handheld Ham radios, and I would
therefore be able to yak with my wife and tell her what a great time Im
having while while flying. However, when I tried it, it doesnt work.
If I remember right, I was not able to transmit using the Ham radio,
although curiously, I could receive transmissions OK from my wife's
2-meter radio.
Im guessing maybe there is some sort of impedance mismatch here? Is
there anything simple I can do that will let me utilize my Ham radio?
Hate to buy a second aviation radio if I dont have to.
Thanks in advance,
Erich Weaver
sbaew(at)dames.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: jung web site |
Doug,
I probably went higher than I should have. I never expected to get much above
12,000 feet, becuae I had not even rejetted. Above 12,000, I was trying to
remember my altitude chamber training from 28 years earlier (Vietnam). So at each
thousand, I would decide to go for one more. At 16,000, I decided that I would
stop at 17 without considering going higher. I did that because I didn't trust
my
own decision making ability at 17,000.
Maybe I should add this part to my page. What do you think?
John Jung
Douglas G. Murray wrote:
> I was surprised that Mother Nature didn't get you - hypoxia :-))
________________________________________________________________________________
HGRAFF(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolt specification. |
>
>How about recommendations on the grade bolt that should be used for a
propeller?
>Too hard would seem like a bad idea, right? More malleable might keep it
>together better than a hard brittle bolt (like grade five can bend but not
break
>like a grd 8 would).??? I suppose they are graded in the metric system.
>Thanks!
>
I was once told by a friend more knowledgable than myself (Not really
that big a deal) that gr.8 are good everywhere except the prop where a 5
would be more appropriate for the same reasons you mentioned.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brett Gruchow" <bgruchow(at)ameritech.net> |
Just wanted to let everyone know that after 14 hours of flight training I
have soloed the Mark III. I am now looking to buy one. I am not afraid of
having to rebuild one. I have use of the instructors untill I get my
own(but have to work around his schedule :(. So Again let me know if there
are any planes avalibly. Thanks.
Brett
bgruchow(at)ameritech.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: jung web site |
> Doug,
>
> I probably went higher than I should have. I never expected to get much above
> 12,000 feet, becuae I had not even rejetted. Above 12,000, I was trying to
> remember my altitude chamber training from 28 years earlier (Vietnam). So at
each
> thousand, I would decide to go for one more. At 16,000, I decided that I would
> stop at 17 without considering going higher. I did that because I didn't trust
my
> own decision making ability at 17,000.
> Maybe I should add this part to my page. What do you think?
>
> John Jung
>
> Douglas G. Murray wrote:
>
> > I was surprised that Mother Nature didn't get you - hypoxia :-))
John - It sounds as though you were better prepared for this exercise than most
of
the rest of us. A note on your home page "don't try this at home" might be a good
idea to discourage those of us novices that think that 'if he can do it so can
I'.
I did notice that at 10,000 ASL, I was starting to think that I was pretty
insignificant in the grand scheme of things. Still, it was a super experience
and
very intoxicating. I am always amazed at the beauty that I can see from an altitude.
I thought that you might enjoy a lesson I learned while flying one day. I was
aviating over the local area and thought that I would take a look at the junk yard
that my neighbor has accumulated over the years. I had been to it many times on
the
ground and was always amazed at the mess. Well I had to fly over the yard several
times and concentrate hard to see beyond the green grass and rolling hills that
presented themselves to my vision from the air. Finally after I located the junk
yard, the thought struck me that every yard has a corner where junk gets piled.
Also
every person seems to have a closet in their life with a bit of junk in it. The
lesson I learned from this afternoon flight over the beautiful terrain was - if
we
give our friends a bit of distance they all will look good. Granted, some friends
will need a bit extra distance! I have always enjoyed the lessons to be learned
while
flying. I have never flown with out coming home with another piece of insight.
I hope that your flying also brings you pleasure.
Fly safe and have fun,
Doug Murray- FireStar flying & RV-6 getting close.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolt specification. |
Talking about bolt specs, can anyone tell me what grade "AN"
bolts are equivalent to? I can't find them locally and wondered
what grade I could use as a substitute.
Thanks
Bill Beam
FS438
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gallar" <MikeG(at)ij.net> |
| Subject: | Prop bolt specification. |
Bill,
AN bolts are slightly harder than a Grade 8 Bolt
AN Bolts have stricter quality control
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> BILLBEAM(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 1999 8:15 AM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolt specification.
>
>
>
>
> Talking about bolt specs, can anyone tell me what grade "AN"
> bolts are equivalent to? I can't find them locally and wondered
> what grade I could use as a substitute.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill Beam
> FS438
>
>
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
> ---------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolt specification. |
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the AN bolt information. I suppose that is
why they are so expensive.
Thanks
Bill Beam
FS438
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <tthompson(at)cms.cendant.com> |
Who's going to the Greenland, NH fly in 7/9-10? If the weather is good,
I'll be flying the striped tail, checker board on bottom of wings MK3. You
can't miss me. I'll be looking for Kolb owners.
Todd Thompson
Cendant Telecommunications Dept.
Trumbull, CT
203-365-5635
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
> friends, maybe someone can help me with this problem. i have a 377 on my
> firestar. at cruise the rpm will go up and down by itself, without input
> from the control in the cockpit. i can't get the engine to hold a steady rpm.
> anyone got any ideas on this ? ............ tim
>
Tim - I have found that the rpm of the engine will be varied by the propeller
loading. The propellor loading changes by changes in attitude of the aircraft
and
more so by changes in the relative air flow through the prop. If you are flying
in gusty weather the various pockets of air will meet the prop at different angles
and tend to load up or unload the prop. Because the prop is fixed pitch the rpm
of
the engine will change to reflect the load felt on the prop. . A lot of minor rpm
changes will correct themselves as you fly through the air.
Doug Murray Firestar 1
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
Hey guy's,
Last entry on this subject.
The video was sent back from the following list: There will be no
further attempts so I am sorry to the people involved in the list below.
bjones8103(at)yahoo.com
STAECS(at)AOL.COM
monte84(at)mindspring.com
kingdome(at)treac.net
HANGERMAN(at)AOL.COM
adrio(at)home.com
HGRAFF(at)AOL.COM
possums(at)mindspring.com
AV8EXP(at)AOL.COM
You only missed some nude sky-divers falling,, while the wind wagged
their dogs....
I tried,,, sorry..
Doc
do no archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolt specification. |
> Talking about bolt specs, can anyone tell me what grade "AN"
> bolts are equivalent to? I can't find them locally and wondered
> what grade I could use as a substitute.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill Beam
> FS438
>
>
Bill - for your own safety I would recommend that you make the extras effort to
obtain AN hardware. I have been taught that the AN bolt has the strength of a
grade 5 'hardware' bolt but has been tempered differently. Where the hardware
bolt will reach its maximum strength and then snap, the AN bolt is designed to
yield slowly and stretch and bend before breaking, thus giving some indication
of failure before letting go entirely ( another good reason to use a torque
wrench). A second difference is the way the threads are cut on a hardware bolt.
The hardware bolt has threads cut into the shank to an undetermined length
giving you two problems - 1. the cut threads have sharp corners - stress
risers, and 2. the different length of threads makes it difficult to be sure
that only the shank remains in the material being clamped. The AN bolt has a
predetermined length of threads and is measured out in 1/16" length differences.
This makes it easier to keep only shank in the material and thread out where the
nut will be centered on the threads. Up to three washers can be used to locate
the nut. The threads on an AN bolt are rolled and therefore have no sharp
corners to encourage stress risers. UPS ought to make it very easy for you
to obtain the correct hardware as you order what you will need. Usually I found
that Kolb or Aircraft Spruce or Wicks were very prompt in sending me hardware
needed. Get a copy of AC43-13 1B. -2B. It is the 'bible' of aviation building
and maintenance. Real good reading too.
Remember - it is your life that will be sitting in your airplane at 5000
feet in the air. Why would you want to use anything that is not proven that
would reduce your safety while you enjoy the beauties of aviation?
I hope this helps.
Doug Murray Firestar flying and RV-6 on the way
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.R.Holbrook" <jrholbrook(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fatel error's |
Sorry you had a problem emailing me. The address looks O.K. to me. It should
be;
jrholbrook(at)hotmail.com
I actually received an email from you yesterday but the attachment (short
movie) was not there...
Thanks for trying again...
Jim Holbrook
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Tim and Kolbers:
I was waiting, but no one mentioned the following:
The expansion chamber acts much the same as a cam shaft in a
4 cycle. If we try to fly between 5300 and 5500 rpm (ya'll
help me out, I haven't been doing much 2 cycle flying) the
engine will speed up and slow down notably as the engine
comes on the pipe and off the pipe. To me the engine is
saying I want to run above this speed. Two cycle engs are
much more susceptible to prop loading than 4 cycle engs.
Reckon we all beat this to death. ;-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolt specification. |
Doug,
Thanks for the info. I guess it's worth a few bucks more to
be safe and have peace of mind.
Thanks
Bill Beam
FS438
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/29/99 |
In a message dated 6/30/99 1:57:40 AM Central Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Class A airspace starts at 18,000 ft. He was legal - and lucky too.
> Hypoxia is real, and nasty. Big Lar.
What does one have to do to a Firestar to get it to 17k....altitude
compensating carb?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/29/99 |
N51SK,
Put on warm cloths, put the throttle to full, pull back the stick to keep
the speed down to 42 mph, and wait 44 minutes. It was that simple. Absolutely
no changes were made to the plane and I usually fly from 1,000 feet ASL. Oh
yeah, I was advised to warn people, "DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME".
John Jung
N51SK(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> What does one have to do to a Firestar to get it to 17k....altitude
> compensating carb?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 06/29/99 |
Hey, Kolbs are known for their climb rate. John's high flight was even
on a 377, right? Just think of 5 more HP in a 447 or 17 more in a 503!!
A little more weight, but definetly a mighty good elevator ride. (My max
is only 6k MSL and AGL ...felt way up there)
-Ben
>
>N51SK,
>
> Put on warm cloths, put the throttle to full, pull back the stick to keep
>the speed down to 42 mph, and wait 44 minutes. It was that simple. Absolutely
>no changes were made to the plane and I usually fly from 1,000 feet ASL. Oh
>yeah, I was advised to warn people, "DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME".
>
>John Jung
>
>N51SK(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>> What does one have to do to a Firestar to get it to 17k....altitude
>> compensating carb?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Gherkins" <rp3420(at)EMAIL.SPS.MOT.COM> |
This message is for Ben Ransom, but all may be interested in the answer.
How are you doing on your Firestar rebuild?
Sorry if I put you on the spot.
Tim
adr;dom: ;;;CH305;;;
tel;work: 6028144651
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flights |
>
>
> Just wanted to let everyone know that after 14 hours of flight training I
>have soloed the Mark III. I am now looking to buy one. I am not afraid of
>having to rebuild one. I have use of the instructors untill I get my
>own(but have to work around his schedule :(. So Again let me know if there
>are any planes avalibly. Thanks.
>
>Brett
>bgruchow(at)ameritech.net
>
>
Whenever posting a request buying,selling or searching it is best to know
your location.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resending video at night |
>The worst thing is that for every address that wasn't accurate,,, I had
>to wait for another hour while the (sent) video was returned... This was
>a pain in the neck.. My computer was tied up most of the day...
>Hope this evening will be better..
>Doc
>
How about sending out a test message first. That will tell you which
addresses will come back.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Phone charges for 'net |
The following, while somewhat off UL subject, may be of interest to all
'net users. Came from my s-i-l, lawyer w/ FCC. Sorry it's so long (I'm
sorry, too, as I had to Two Finger it in).
Answers from FCC Chairman Wm. E. Kennard, to questions taken 2/25/99 by
FCC concerning reciprocal compensation for dial-up internet traffic.
Order # 99-38
quote
Q: Has the FCC opened the door to Internet charges?
A: Absolutely not. The FCC has reconfirmed the Internets exemption.
Consumers will see no new charges on their Internet or phone bills.
Q: Are we going to see new long distance charges to connect to the
Internet?
A: Rumors have been spread by some people, but these rumors are false.
The FCC will not impose long distance charges for dialing up the
Internet.
Q: Is there any way that local phone cos. will be able to to start
imposing usage-sensitive access charges to ISPs?
A: No. The exemption from LD access charges is solid as a rock and has
been upheld in court.
Q: The FCC will not allow LD charges for local calls to the Internet.
But has the FCC made it easier for states to impose LD charges for local
calls to the Internet?
A:No. States have no power to impose LD charges. Only the FCC can do
that, and we declared our jurisdiction over this traffic.
Q:What changes can consumers expect to see as a result of this
decision--in the short run, and in the long run?
A: Consumers should see no changes in their Internet or phone bills,
either in the short run or long run, as a resultof this Order. The big
picture in the long run is very positive--our continued hands off
policy towards the Internet will allow it to continue growing rapidly,
unfettered by regulations.
Q: How will ISPs react to this Order? Will this be good for business or
bad for business?
A:Its good for business and consumers. We have clarified how cos. pay
each other for this traffic, and we have done so in a way that prohibits
the assessment of LD charges. This can only help consumers.
Q: Why were so many negative rumors spread around?
A The Internet has become extremely important to a lot of people in the
last few years. We get letters every week from people forwhom access to
the Internet has opene up whole new possibilities for business, social
service, and life. The very idea of paying for LD-type charges for hours
of web surfing naturally produces great anxiety. Therefore these rumors
tend to spring up anytime the FCC does anything related to LD service.
unquote
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
HI Gang:
I got inspired after viewing John Jung's neat web page so I cranked one out.
A first effort to be sure but I will update it if I get some interesting
photos or whatever. You can check it out:
Bill
Georges Kolb Pg.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Prop bolt specification. |
> AN bolts are slightly harder than a Grade 8 Bolt
No......
> AN Bolts have stricter quality control
Maybe. To be sure, you can always ask for the Fastener Quality
Act certificate for bolts used in critical areas...these have a chain of
custody and material certification that ensures the fastener is as
advertised.
> High-strength fasteners
> Those used in critical applications should have a minimum tensile
> strength 120,000 psi (830 megapascals). These fasteners are limited to
> bolts, nuts, screws, studs or direct tension-indicating washers having
> a nominal diameter of 0.25//in// (5mm) and greater, manufactured to
> standards and specifications requiring a grade mark and meeting the
> minimum specified tensile strength criterion
http://www.nist.gov/fqa/
J.Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolt specification. |
AN is SAE Grade 6. 125,000 psi tensile.
SAE Gr 5 is 120,000 tensile.
Metric 8.8 is 120,000 tensile so is closest to AN.
>
>
> Talking about bolt specs, can anyone tell me what grade "AN"
> bolts are equivalent to? I can't find them locally and wondered
> what grade I could use as a substitute.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bill Beam
> FS438
>
>
>
>
J.Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolt specification. |
Jim, Thanks for the AN bolt information. Have not seen any grade 6 items
in the stores, so I guess I will stick to AN since all the plans for my
Firstar
call for them.
Also, I think it is an ultra light thing. We may use bungie cords for trim and
yarn for turn coordination, but your bolts have to be right. HA
Thanks
Bill Beam
FS438
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/01/99 |
Just a word from the guy who tweeked his kite at the Cedar Mills Fly in at
Lake Texoma, Texas. I am not trying to slam that there Texas folks, but, I
would like to slap the guy who decided to take the wood rr tie out of the
crossing and just pour asphault in the hole. It melted down and you got a
perfectly formed one foot wide speed bump for armadillos. It was just over a
little hill going out of town on 380. By the time I saw it, I could only
slow down to about 20 - about 19 mph too fast! The RV dipped and jumped like
a texas rabit. Conversly, the trailer jumped up about two feet and wipped
the tail boom like a dog with a rat. The main rail that holds the boom
wipped down draging the boom with it on an angle and consequently, left three
dimples in the bottom of the boom ofset from each other. You could not make
a neater bunch of dents. After much evaluation from about six (authorities)
well wishing guys, we decided the damage will not affect integrity and so I
ground tested several times with crow hops and tried it in the air. The
tweek was so slight I believe it actually helped bring the plane into trim
better. It may be me but I would swear it is not so sensitive to the higher
speeds now. It doesnt want to climb "by itself". Seems to be better
actually. I am making modifications to the trailer to help avert this kind
of damage again. We had a wonderful time there and it is a great place. Met
a real nice bunch of guys and probably will be going to Nashville, Tenn as a
result of it. Wanted all to know how strong this kolb is. I would not have
taken it up if I was not absolutely sure about it. I am the worlds biggest
Chicken-S- - t pilot in the whole world. That is why I have a kolb. By the
way, one guy said us Kolbers are giving the rest of them a bad name when it
come to climbing out. G'day. Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/01/99 |
Amost forgot. As a follow up I want all to know I am putting a plate of alum
about two feel long and ten inches wide around the bottom of the boom to help
it out and to make sure it stays straight. It will be held in with rivets
across the top of the plate (making sure there is nothing on the top 30% of
the boom) This is overkill but I want to be here next week to read all the
great stuff you people have to say. I also got over all the radio problems
(so far) by using the 960 hand held on the ground where it was intended and
put a Collins in. Cost was under $650 used. Got a real deal on the radio
and could not resist it. Works great. G'day Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heritage" <heritage(at)prtel.com> |
Hello all,
I have watched this list from the sidelines for many months, absorbing
little bits of info that were helpful during the completion of a
quick-build Firefly. Thank you all!! Now is the time to participate.
I read with interest the posts concerning problems with the The New Kolb
Aircraft Co (TNK) and customer service. I had opportunity to witness first
hand the great lengths to which one of the new leaders of TNK is willing to
go to help customers of the "old" Kolb.
I did not know that my scheduled "rush to completion" happened to coincide
with Kolb's move from PA to KY. Of course I was unaware that I was missing
parts until I needed them, and I fabricated or bought many of them locally.
But Wal-Mart was fresh out of aileron horns. John Yates dropped what he
was doing, hunted for a pair, found them, and UPS blue labelled them to me
so I could complete during my vacation. Thank you John.
We crow hopped the new plane down the runway at home, tweaked a little,
crow hopped, and crashed...............Always meant to cut that little elm
tree that sprouted a few years ago on the runway edge.........
So I'll be contacting TNK for some parts, but I'm waiting for them to get
settled.
Paul Thieme
Fire Fly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron C Reece" <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com> |
Anyone know of any Kolbers in or near San Antonio? I'll be there the week of
July 5th. I wouldn't mind seeing someones project. Thanks
Ron Reece
FireStar parts owner.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Omelchuck
> Sent: Friday, July 02, 1999 8:09 AM
> To: 'Kolb builders'
> Subject: Flap handle
>
> Got around to installing the flap handle last night and discovered it
> does not fit. What I mean by this is when the flap handle by itself
> is installed it works great. When the link between the handle and the
> torque tube is installed, the nut hits the bar that is going down at
> the 45 degree angle (at the rear of the passenger compartment). A
> shorter bolt wont help because it hits the nut, the only solution I
> can see is move the hole in the flap handle (this would move the nut
> further away from the corner and provide more clearance with the 45
> degree brace). I would have to shorten the arm on the flap handle
> 7/16 of an inch in order to drill a new hole with edge distance (it
> came pre drilled from the factory). This would decrease my flap throw
> by 24%. If the maximum flap was 40 degrees before it would now be 30
> degrees. From everything everyone has posted about max flaps, it
> seems like this is not a horrible thing. OK group, let me know what
> you think.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Flap handle |
the only solution I
>> can see is move the hole in the flap handle (this would move the nut
>> further away from the corner and provide more clearance with the 45
>> degree brace). I would have to shorten the arm on the flap handle
>> 7/16 of an inch in order to drill a new hole with edge distance (it
>> came pre drilled from the factory). This would decrease my flap throw
>> by 24%. If the maximum flap was 40 degrees before it would now be 30
>> degrees. From everything everyone has posted about max flaps, it
>> seems like this is not a horrible thing. OK group, let me know what
>> you think.
I assume you have a MKIII. (If not, disregard the rest of this post)
I have drilled a new hole in my flap handle lever arm to change
the leverage, and reduce the flap angle from about 40 degrees to about
30 degrees. I had found that with a heavy person in the passenger seat,
I was not happy with the apparent reduction in elevator authority with
40 degrees of flaps.
30 degrees seems to work almost as good for short field work,
I am willing to give up the last 10 degrees of short field ability
for an increase in elevator authority at gross, and also the ability
to reflex the flaps a bit at cruise, and also droop them a tiny bit during
takeoff.
But it required fabricating a new flap detent system.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard neilsen" <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | FW: Flap handle -Reply |
I had a similar problem a few years ago when I installed mine. If I remember correctly
I ordered a shorter close clearance AN bolt and eliminated a washer or
three. It does fit but It's close. There must be some play in the welding jig
for this part I haven't heard anyone else that has had this problem???
Rick Neilsen
VW powered MKIII
>>> Jason Omelchuck 07/02/99 11:22am >>>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Omelchuck
> Sent: Friday, July 02, 1999 8:09 AM
> To: 'Kolb builders'
> Subject: Flap handle
>
> Got around to installing the flap handle last night and discovered it
> does not fit. What I mean by this is when the flap handle by itself
> is installed it works great. When the link between the handle and the
> torque tube is installed, the nut hits the bar that is going down at
> the 45 degree angle (at the rear of the passenger compartment). A
> shorter bolt wont help because it hits the nut, the only solution I
> can see is move the hole in the flap handle (this would move the nut
> further away from the corner and provide more clearance with the 45
> degree brace). I would have to shorten the arm on the flap handle
> 7/16 of an inch in order to drill a new hole with edge distance (it
> came pre drilled from the factory). This would decrease my flap throw
> by 24%. If the maximum flap was 40 degrees before it would now be 30
> degrees. From everything everyone has posted about max flaps, it
> seems like this is not a horrible thing. OK group, let me know what
> you think.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GOOCHMAC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Pitot tube info |
My airspeed indicator pitot tube has been cut flush to the fairing---there is
now just the pitot tube hole in the front of the fairing---my question is
this--------will the airspeed indicator still work or does it require more of
the actual tube out side the fairing--not flush---thank you
martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MARK CIZEK <mark.cizek(at)adtran.com> |
| Subject: | : Kolb-List:Pitot tube info |
Martin,
For accurate airspeed indication you will definitely need for
the tube
to extend beyond the fairing. Pressure will build around the hole as
air strikes the fairing and tries to get out of the way for more air.
This
will play havoc with the airflow to the airspeed indicator. The tube
gives the A.I. "clean" air. That's why its called a pitot "tube" and
not a pitot "flush"! (sorry-couldn't resist that
one.)
>
> My airspeed indicator pitot tube has been cut flush to the fairing---there
> is
> now just the pitot tube hole in the front of the fairing---my question is
> this--------will the airspeed indicator still work or does it require more
> of
> the actual tube out side the fairing--not flush---thank you
>
>
> martin
>
>
>
> -
>
> -
>
> -
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Smart" <gsmart(at)iinet.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolt specification. |
There is NO substitute to AN quality.
So stop looking.
Try any of the major aircraft suppliers, they all have a good range.
CPUs, Aircraft spruce, just to name a couple.
MAD MAX
-----Original Message-----
From: BILLBEAM(at)aol.com <BILLBEAM(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, 30 June 1999 20:20
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolt specification.
>
>
>Talking about bolt specs, can anyone tell me what grade "AN"
>bolts are equivalent to? I can't find them locally and wondered
>what grade I could use as a substitute.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bill Beam
>FS438
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolt specification. |
Some time ago - 1 or 2 yrs - it was explained to me that AN spec is not only
a grade of hardness, but also of " toughness "; that is, AN is not only
hard, but slightly resilient, or " tough." If you were to clamp a gr. 8
bolt in a vise, and smack it sideways with a hammer, it would snap, like a
drill bit or a file. Not something you want holding your struts in
turbulence. AN bolt in the same situation is just about as hard - ref. the
comparison of 1 or 2 nights ago - but would bend, or yield a bit under the
same blow. I'm not sure about the alloy, but doubt if it's the same as gr
8. Back to my old logging days; the skidding Cats had a winch line
with a hook-up on the end for up to 5 chokers, or cables, which were looped
around the logs. The winch line link, and choker bells were made of
tungsten steel, and took the most unbelievable pounding you could ever
imagine. Tons of force jerking and snapping on them constantly, day in and
day out. No such thing as taking up the slack gently. Anything brittle
would have snapped on the 1st jolt. Mighty impressive, and they weren't all
that big. Maybe finger thickness. I like to think that AN are made of
something similar. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Smart <gsmart(at)iinet.net.au>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 1999 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolt specification.
>
> There is NO substitute to AN quality.
> So stop looking.
> Try any of the major aircraft suppliers, they all have a good range.
>
> CPUs, Aircraft spruce, just to name a couple.
>
> MAD MAX
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BILLBEAM(at)aol.com <BILLBEAM(at)aol.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, 30 June 1999 20:20
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolt specification.
>
>
> >
> >
> >Talking about bolt specs, can anyone tell me what grade "AN"
> >bolts are equivalent to? I can't find them locally and wondered
> >what grade I could use as a substitute.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Bill Beam
> >FS438
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Pitot tube info |
Martin -
For the speeds we fly in our Kolbs, the pitot tube needs to extend at
least six inches in front of the fairing surface to get it out of the
boundary layer and into 'undisturbed' air to give you an accurate
airspeed reading.
Dennis Kirby
two-thirds finished Mk-3 in New Mexico
GOOCHMAC(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> My airspeed indicator pitot tube has been cut flush to the fairing---there is
> now just the pitot tube hole in the front of the fairing---my question is
> this--------will the airspeed indicator still work or does it require more of
> the actual tube out side the fairing--not flush---thank you
>
> martin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Pitot tube info |
When you extend your pitot tube, ose a short piece of soft plastic
tubing at the joint. This makes the tube kinda flexible so it doesn't
get bent or worse, broken when some dummy snags it going by.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/02/99 |
In a message dated 7/3/99 1:57:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> I am not trying to slam that there Texas folks, but, I
> would like to slap the guy who decided to take the wood rr tie out of the
> crossing and just pour asphault in the hole. It melted down and you got
And we ain't taking it personally either Ted.....sorry that happened to your
airplane here in our great state. Was a pleasure to meet you and watch your
Firestar fly each day...you definately do have a great performing Kolb. The
good news is that you didn't have to fly home on Sunday like some of us. The
weather report said 10-20 but aloft it was often more than 30 and
ROUGH!!!!!.....man was it rough. My groundspeed back to D/FW was 29-34mph.
That was the longest 2 hours I've ever spent in an airplane. Was really
happy to have 10 gallons on board as I did not want to have to attempt more
than one landing in the stuff and I wanted that to be at home so I wouldn't
have so far to drag the wreckage!!!
Anyway...sorry again that you had to ding her up here...or anyplace for that
matter. Don't hold that against us...OK? And please come back again next
year. We're just starting to get into the groove with this fly-in and it'll
get better every year...I can promise you that.
Steve Kroll Mk2 (D/FW Liteflyers)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Well, yesterday was another lesson day. Rented and flew the 172 up to Apple
Valley ( APV ) again, and had another go at the Champ. Instructor John this
time, who is at least as nice and capable a guy as CFI Bruce, the 1st time.
Wind was kicking up some, and Yours Truly got to do his 1st ground loop.
360 in the blink of an eye. No damage, except for a red face, and it led
into a very good session. Taught me some respect, I guess. 5 take-offs
and full stop landings, some a little ragged, but all with no assistance
from the back seat. What Fun ! ! ! I'd like to say Many Thanks to Dell
Vinal, and Steve Kroll, for their help and input after my last session.
What you guys said is all true, and it works ! ! ! The only thing that
didn't quite fit, and I think it'll come with experience, is the " seat of
the pants " feeling. I guess the front seat must be the center of rotation,
or something, cause I couldn't really feel the slip or yaw. What I Did
notice, was in focussing ahead of the airplane, I could SEE the nose
skidding sideways. Although I'm still over-controlling a lot, it's much
smoother, and I can see how it'll become more and more comfortable, and
natural. After that, getting into the Cessna for the flight back to Bermuda
Dunes ( UDD ), was almost an anti-climax, but a nice way to relax after the
lesson. A nice bonus is that Big Bear Lake ( L35 ) is right on the direct
line from APV to UDD. I went around last time, but made the climb to
10,500' to go over this time. What a view. Yes, I know Big Bear is at
6750', but it's in a valley bordered by massive mountains to the south.
Even at 10,5 I had to pick my route. Then the looonnngg coast down, while
talking to Palm Springs Approach. ( PSP ) UDD is at 73' msl, and
interestingly, ( I think ), Thermal, ( TRM ), just 7 or 8 miles away, is
at -114' msl. Yup, that's 114' below sea level. Getting into the Salton
Sink area. 50 miles farther south, at Calipatria, (CLR ) the airport is
at -180'. It's a real strange feeling, watching the altimeter go Way below
0, without hitting anything. Big Lar. Do not
Archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Guys,
Happy Independence Day.
I pulled the rudder and elevator cables out of the fuse tube for
inspection and I am happy to report they were in excellent condition. I
could not see any wear on them and I have the two-pulley system instead
of the teflon guides like the new ones have. The bend around each pulley,
one under the seat and the other at the forward end of the tube, is very
slight. I did one at a time starting with the rudder cable unbolting one
and tying a string to the shackle then pulling through the tube at the
front. After one is done, bolt it back together and do the other. I have
done this inspection 3 times since new in '86 and each time I see no
cable wear. The elevator bolt was replaced in '91 and I don't think it
was necessary to do that. I did see two wear marks on it where it rides
in the elevator control mechanism, but they were very slight. It would
take many hundreds of hours to wear this one out. I replaced the bolt
anyway and added a dab of grease as I bolted it in.
The control stick bolts were in excellent condition and have never been
replaced in 460 hours. I replaced them with new for the sake of saying
that I did the inspection.
For you guys that have the new teflon guides instead of pulleys, I would
think this would make for even less cable wear, but this remains to be
seen.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, Oshkosh bound
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Pitot tube info |
<< My airspeed indicator pitot tube has been cut flush to the fairing---there
is
now just the pitot tube hole in the front of the fairing---my question is
this--------will the airspeed indicator still work or does it require more
of
the actual tube out side the fairing--not flush---thank you >>
Everyone is saying the pitot tube must project out from the fuselage, BUT my
buddy in a FireStar KXP broke his off to within a 1/2" (during a nose job
landing at another airport) and on the way back home it registered just the
same as before. He and I fly in formation most of the time and always
compare notes on airspeed, etc. so we know it is registering just the same as
before it broke off. I'm not saying it will work for everyone, just pointing
out that it does work for my buddy. Mine is still protruding the normal 6"
with a flexiable joint so passersby won't bend or break it off.
Bill (hoping for some relief from the heat wave) Varnes
Audubon NJ USA
Original FireStar 377
322 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us> |
Todd
I plan to be there but I will be camping without the plane. I plan to
get there on Thursday (I hope). All depends on the weather. I will be
on the hill on the far side of the strip. Not on the lake side. I will
probably be the only guy campin with a motorcycle. I'll try and look ya up.
Fly safe.
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
gthacker(at)mciu.org
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
On Wed, 30 Jun 1999, Thompson, Todd wrote:
>
> Who's going to the Greenland, NH fly in 7/9-10? If the weather is good,
> I'll be flying the striped tail, checker board on bottom of wings MK3. You
> can't miss me. I'll be looking for Kolb owners.
>
> Todd Thompson
> Cendant Telecommunications Dept.
> Trumbull, CT
> 203-365-5635
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dleister <dleister(at)eriecoast.com> |
| Subject: | 912 Oil Reservoir |
Hi kolbers: I was just inspecting my Mark III, getting it ready for a
trip to Oshkosh this year when I noticed the bracket that holds the
912's oil reservoir to the engine was broken in three places. Thought I
had better put this on the kolb list so that others might have a good
look at their bracket. My prop is a Warp Drive and I take great care
to make sure it is
statically balanced. What I'm getting at is my engine is running as
smooth as an engine can run an yet this bracket failed. I plan to order
a new bracket and I think I'll use rubber shock mounts ( like the ones
used to hold the radiator) to mount this reservoir to the engine. This
will move it one inch forward from the engine and will interfere even
more with my BRS5 canister but I think there will be room and hopefully
eliminate the shock stress transmitter to the bracket. Anyone else
have any thoughts let me know. By the way I have 175 hrs on the kolb
and I am still using the RANS muffler that Dennis warned us about. So
far the muffler is holding up OK.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/03/99 |
I appreciate the sentiment. I did not intend to bash Texas. It could have
happened anywhere. My new modifications on the trialer will hopefully
prevent this again. We had a great time even in the heat. By the way, it
made us feel a whole lot cooler back in hot Bama land when we returned.
There is some beautiful country up there and I really enjoyed flying over the
big lake. You are a great bunch of guys and we will probably see you all
some other time. I also got to go through one of my hero's home town, Audie
Murphy. Great guy. Watch to hell and back a lot. Take care and dont worry,
I dont hold a grudge or anyone else but me responsible. G'day Ted
I flew Sunday and you are right, my wings actually dipped once or twice up
there!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Mark III Floor, sheet metal screws |
Hey, I've searched the archives and plans and I can't figure out what is
intended with the very rear of the floor as it reaches the front of the
seats. One page of the yellow plans book is very clear that the aluminum
floor is flat on the tube frame floor, but another page shows the rear edge
of the floor is being used to sandwich the seat material to the front seat
tube. In the second example, the floor would be even with the front edge of
the seat and presumably angle down to the level of the tube floor of the
cage and then bend to be parallel to and under the front part of the floor
that rivets to the rudder assembly. But that looks like a large area to
span with .032 aluminum and besides, the 14.5" x 32" piece of aluminum I got
with the kit won't stretch from the seat tube to the first tube crosspiece
on the cage. All I can do with it is position it flat on the cage tubes
from the crosspiece back to the crosspiece under the front of the seat,
making a perfectly flat floor. I've seen a few pictures that look like some
of you have another piece go from the front of the seat, angled down to the
cockpit floor about halfway to the crosspiece. What's the deal? I think
I'd rather have a flat floor, is there any advantage to having it come up to
the seat front?
I did discover in the archives the modification to use a sheet seat pan, and
temperfoam for the seat. I'm going to do this. My first thought was to use
the seat material provided for the seat back, but I'm trying to figure out
how to construct a frame to stretch the material on that I could hinge at
the bottom, allowing the back to swing forward and provide access to a small
storage area behind. Haven't thought of anything brilliant yet, and I'd
appreciate any ideas.
One last thing. I think it was Richard Pike that mentioned the use of sheet
metal screws and Tinnerman speed nuts for mounting the floor. Would the
snap-over Tinnerman nuts work for the nose fairing where it attaches to the
curved steel strips on the cage bottom? Would #10 sheet metal screws into
the speed nuts be strong enough and not vibrate loose? How far apart should
they be?
Thanks in advance - I've learned a lot from the list, and hope to be able to
contribute as I figure out what I'm doing. Duncan McBride
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ajvann" <redhill(at)rose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: buccaneer II crash |
http://www.ntsb.gov/aviation/MIA/99A183.htm
The above is a link to the NTSB accident report of a BUCCANEER II
experimental aircraft at Panacea, Fl. what is not mentioned in the report
is that the pilot was a commercial pilot of larger aircraft with over 16,000
hours. He had recently purchased this plane and had 25 hours in it at the
time of his accident. he also stated he was having trouble with the
airspeed indicator and that it was not reading correctly. He stated he was
having some difficulty in turning the plane to his left, so he gave it extra
right rudder and attempted a sharper turn to the right to avoid going over
trees ahead of him. The plane almost instantly went into a spin from his
already low altitude of 150 feet. He stated he didn't feel the impending
stall/spin before it occurred (he commented most larger aircraft have
vibrations to give some warning). He crashed into about 2 feet of water and
mud. this slowed his impact enough that he and his passenger survived. His
analysis of the cause of the accident: he allowed his airspeed to get too
slow and didn't feel the spin before it occurred and then had no time to
think before he had impacted the water nose down.
Since I interviewed the pilot for the extra details, I thought I'd pass this
information along to the rest of you. I hope this helps someone to keep
their airspeed indicator in tip top shape. It might not hurt to have two
airspeed indicators, particularly when training in a new type.
I've got a problem with the left mag periodically quitting on a 503 rotax;
I'll send some symptom information this evening for some help or report on
the solution, if we get lucky and find the problem today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G. Johannsson" <johann.g(at)centrum.is> |
| Subject: | Rotax 503 electrical problem. |
Hello "ajvann"
I had the same problem with my 503, which is a CDI.
My problem was the electronic pickup. The symptoms were similar, periodically
quitting until completely braking down. You can find out if it is broken, by
using an ohm meter.
I am not sure what the ohm reading should be, but if you test both, you should
be able to compare the result.
Check this item out, before you go on. You may get lucky.
Hope this will help you out.
Johann G.
Iceland.
ajvann wrote:
>
> http://www.ntsb.gov/aviation/MIA/99A183.htm
>
> The above is a link to the NTSB accident report of a BUCCANEER II
> experimental aircraft at Panacea, Fl. what is not mentioned in the report
> is that the pilot was a commercial pilot of larger aircraft with over 16,000
> hours. He had recently purchased this plane and had 25 hours in it at the
> time of his accident. he also stated he was having trouble with the
> airspeed indicator and that it was not reading correctly. He stated he was
> having some difficulty in turning the plane to his left, so he gave it extra
> right rudder and attempted a sharper turn to the right to avoid going over
> trees ahead of him. The plane almost instantly went into a spin from his
> already low altitude of 150 feet. He stated he didn't feel the impending
> stall/spin before it occurred (he commented most larger aircraft have
> vibrations to give some warning). He crashed into about 2 feet of water and
> mud. this slowed his impact enough that he and his passenger survived. His
> analysis of the cause of the accident: he allowed his airspeed to get too
> slow and didn't feel the spin before it occurred and then had no time to
> think before he had impacted the water nose down.
>
> Since I interviewed the pilot for the extra details, I thought I'd pass this
> information along to the rest of you. I hope this helps someone to keep
> their airspeed indicator in tip top shape. It might not hurt to have two
> airspeed indicators, particularly when training in a new type.
>
> I've got a problem with the left mag periodically quitting on a 503 rotax;
> I'll send some symptom information this evening for some help or report on
> the solution, if we get lucky and find the problem today.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Camping at Oskosh |
>
> Can anyone on the list tell me the best place to camp at Oshkosh? I'll be
------
Ron and Kolbers:
Best place to be near UL/Lt Planes is the UL Camping Area
adjacent to the UL Airstrip. Can't get any closer than
that.
I'm pulling 5th wheel this year instead of flying MK III as
I usually do. Plan to arrive OSH 22 or 23 Jul and camp in
UL Camp Ground. Will be there for the duration. New Kolb
Aircraft says I will be flying a brand new 912 powered Sling
Shot. Am looking forward to the flyin and meeting new
friends and old alike. Got an old red '92 Dodge Cummins
Diesel and a Free Spirit 5th wheel. Dodge has a Taylor Wing
air deflector on the cab. Anybody need any help or just
want to BS I should be easy to find. Please stop by and
visit with me. If I am not at 5th wheel I will be at Kolb
display or flying the pattern. Or sitting in the same old
long, boring, flight ops briefing in the tent next to the
Barn. ;-)
Hope it is cooler up there than in Alabama.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III Floor, sheet metal screws |
Duncan,
Had the same problem with mine. I rivited about a 2 inch piece to fill the
gap between the pan and the seats, and then rivited that to the edge of the
seat per the instuctions with sealing rivets. I wondered at the time if I
had been sent a firestar pan instead of a Mark III pan - don't know. I
spaced the rivets at 3/4 inch intervals, and it seems to be sturdy enough.
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles McBride <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
Date: Monday, July 05, 1999 3:33 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III Floor, sheet metal screws
>
>Hey, I've searched the archives and plans and I can't figure out what is
>intended with the very rear of the floor as it reaches the front of the
>seats. One page of the yellow plans book is very clear that the aluminum
>floor is flat on the tube frame floor, but another page shows the rear edge
>of the floor is being used to sandwich the seat material to the front seat
>tube. In the second example, the floor would be even with the front edge
of
>the seat and presumably angle down to the level of the tube floor of the
>cage and then bend to be parallel to and under the front part of the floor
>that rivets to the rudder assembly. But that looks like a large area to
>span with .032 aluminum and besides, the 14.5" x 32" piece of aluminum I
got
>with the kit won't stretch from the seat tube to the first tube crosspiece
>on the cage. All I can do with it is position it flat on the cage tubes
>from the crosspiece back to the crosspiece under the front of the seat,
>making a perfectly flat floor. I've seen a few pictures that look like
some
>of you have another piece go from the front of the seat, angled down to the
>cockpit floor about halfway to the crosspiece. What's the deal? I think
>I'd rather have a flat floor, is there any advantage to having it come up
to
>the seat front?
>
>I did discover in the archives the modification to use a sheet seat pan,
and
>temperfoam for the seat. I'm going to do this. My first thought was to
use
>the seat material provided for the seat back, but I'm trying to figure out
>how to construct a frame to stretch the material on that I could hinge at
>the bottom, allowing the back to swing forward and provide access to a
small
>storage area behind. Haven't thought of anything brilliant yet, and I'd
>appreciate any ideas.
>
>One last thing. I think it was Richard Pike that mentioned the use of
sheet
>metal screws and Tinnerman speed nuts for mounting the floor. Would the
>snap-over Tinnerman nuts work for the nose fairing where it attaches to the
>curved steel strips on the cage bottom? Would #10 sheet metal screws into
>the speed nuts be strong enough and not vibrate loose? How far apart
should
>they be?
>
>Thanks in advance - I've learned a lot from the list, and hope to be able
to
>contribute as I figure out what I'm doing. Duncan McBride
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Rotax backfiring |
Hi all,
A couple weeks ago I had an engine out and we have been looking for reasons
why it happened. By the way I landed in a field without any damage.
I have a rotax 377 with a CDI conversion.
I was running along about 10 minutes with 4800-5000 rpms. when I heard a
bang followed by my engine dropping to idle. I tried to close and open the
throttle which produced a slightly higher rpm, then I just closed the
throttle and it at some point after that it quit. I don't think it ran very
long but I had other things to do. Boy, that Firestar flies nice without
that engine.
On the ground several days later we started the engine after about 30 pulls
and it ran ok for 5 minutes from idle to 4000 rpms. Then as I advanced
throttle to about 5000 rpms a backfire caused me to shut down the engine. We
then removed the jets and found the idle jet to be partially blocked. We
cleaned it and it idled better than it had in a while. Since then the engine
has run ok from idle to 6000 rpms for about 10 minutes without a problem,
but I am not confident that we found the problem. What do you guys think?
Maybe the ignition coil or CDI black box?
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 377
Schenectady, NY http://members.aol.com/olefiresta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Hey Gang:
Just read the following in the FAA Accident Briefs. I
haven't looked at the NTSB Summaries or searched for info
from tail number. I hope it isn't one or two of ours on the
List.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
B. Reg.No.: 901JL M/M: EXP Desc:
EXP/HOMEBUILT: KOLB MK III
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Unknown GA-A/C: General
Aviation
Descr: ACFT CRASHED INTO LAKE SHENANGO JUST WEST OF A
BRIDGE, THE 2 POB
SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED,
OTHER
CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, CLARK, PA.
WX: METAR KYNG 042351Z 25006KT 10SM FEW055 31/22 A3011
Damage: Destroyed
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0
Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0
Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0
Min: 0 UNK:
D. Location City: CLARK State: PA
E. Occ Date: 07/04/1999 Time: 00:14
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: EA03 DO CTY: ALLEGHENY
CO.
DO S
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please post any info to the List.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax backfiring |
Had a similar experience years ago when I ran a Rotax 277 too lean.
Did almost exactly the same thing. Had too small of a jet needle,
and it was too lean in upper mid range. Backfired, and showed little lead balls
between the plug electrode and the side bar.
If it is the CDI, it should not come and go. Take off a big field that
is OK for a forced landing, and climb up over it for a good while
and see what it does. I would blame the idle jet.
Be careful on your test flight.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Hi all,
>
>A couple weeks ago I had an engine out and we have been looking for reasons
>why it happened. By the way I landed in a field without any damage.
>
>I have a rotax 377 with a CDI conversion.
>
>I was running along about 10 minutes with 4800-5000 rpms. when I heard a
>bang followed by my engine dropping to idle. I tried to close and open the
>throttle which produced a slightly higher rpm, then I just closed the
>throttle and it at some point after that it quit. I don't think it ran very
>long but I had other things to do. Boy, that Firestar flies nice without
>that engine.
>
>On the ground several days later we started the engine after about 30 pulls
>and it ran ok for 5 minutes from idle to 4000 rpms. Then as I advanced
>throttle to about 5000 rpms a backfire caused me to shut down the engine. We
>then removed the jets and found the idle jet to be partially blocked. We
>cleaned it and it idled better than it had in a while. Since then the engine
>has run ok from idle to 6000 rpms for about 10 minutes without a problem,
>but I am not confident that we found the problem. What do you guys think?
>Maybe the ignition coil or CDI black box?
>
>
>Scott Olendorf
>Original Firestar, Rotax 377
>Schenectady, NY http://members.aol.com/olefiresta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/05/99 |
In a message dated 7/6/99 1:57:49 AM Central Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> It might not hurt to have two
> airspeed indicators, particularly when training in a new type.
Boy is that a good idea.....most everybody in ultralights knows about the 15
dollar hall airspeed indicator sold by CPS and LEAF and many others. It's
accurate and doesn't involve any plumbing or pitot...just clamp it to a strut
on the wing and there you go...instant backup. I had one on my Mk2 early on
just to check my winter pitot setup....
Once I was sure of the winter asi....I took off the hall just to save on the
drag.
16000 hours does not necessarily make a pilot with good judgement. Only
respect and possibly a little fear will keep a pilot from doing somthing that
could endanger him and his passenger. It's sad, but some of those pilots
transferring from GA tend to think that they are flying toys that are not
subject to the same rules that ALL airplanes are subject to. Those of us
flying ultralights have an obligation to make sure that we dispell that myth.
Happy landings
Steve Kroll
________________________________________________________________________________
Well i guess you're already here in San Antonio. Haven't been doing my
homework and reading the list like I should. My name is Bil Ragsdale. I'm
rebuilding a Mk III that was dropped in from about 40 feet. If you'd like
to see it , call me at 340-1000, 573-5750 or at home in the evenings at
621-2071. All numbers are in the 210 area code. If there are any Kolbers
in San Antonio i haven't been able to locate them.
Thanks, Bil
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron C Reece <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 1999 8:56 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: San Antonio
>
>
> Anyone know of any Kolbers in or near San Antonio? I'll be there the week
of
> July 5th. I wouldn't mind seeing someones project. Thanks
>
> Ron Reece
> FireStar parts owner.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I did a search on the N number and is comes back to RJR Aviation Inc. out of
Hubbard OH. Not real sure how up to date this search is. Have not been able
to find anything from the NTSB as of yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Evening Kolbers:
Go to the following url to find a Sharon, Pa, newspaper
article on the Crash in Lake Shenango, Pa:
http://www.sharon-herald.com/localnews/recentnews/9907/ln070699a.html
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Gherkins" <rp3420(at)EMAIL.SPS.MOT.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/05/99 |
Hey Gang,
Amen to what Steve had to say: A little respect and fear is a big secret to
staying alive in a sport like ours that is so very unforgiving. I remember my
dad taught all three of his sons when we had gotten some Honda trail 90's
motorcycles, " Always stay a little afraid of them, like there going to throw
you any second". Keeping a little fear keeps you from getting cocky and
reckless on both motorcycles and aircraft, even works in marriage?...
Tim
adr;dom: ;;;CH305;;;
tel;work: 6028144651
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
I must say that those are some pretty aerial shots on Bill's web page!!! I
tell you though , you arrange a ride in your M3 around beautiful Hawaii for
some of the Kolb-Listers and I bet we could book the Bed and Breakfast out
the rear end!!! (Let me find out what a 2 way airline ticket cost from
Atlanta to Honolulu...wait ...we could make that a one way and just stay a
while!!! Yea that's an idea!!!)
Jeremy Casey
sweatin' like a dog in lower Alabama...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heritage" <heritage(at)prtel.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb/floats for sale |
Hi all,
Found this ad on a seaplane bulletin board.....
Kolb Mark II on full lotus floats, New Rotax 582, new
warp drive prop, BRS, intercom, redone in 1994, red
white and blue, pretty airplane, asking 18,000 OBO,call
601-798-7049 or email, rigaud(at)ametro.net. thanks
Maybe someone you know is ready to go lookin for water.
Paul Thieme, Minnesota
Firefly, newly finished, flown, and foundered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bill's web page |
>>you arrange a ride in your M3 around beautiful Hawaii for
some of the Kolb-Listers and I bet we could book the Bed and Breakfast out
the rear end!!!<<
Sounds good to me. And my wife thought by moving to the country she finally
escaped being around a bunch of pilots hanging out, talking flying talk.
BTW I will update the aerials from time to time when I get some good ones.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Camping at Oskosh |
We stay at the Circle R campground. It's about 2 miles away, reasonably
priced, showers are okay. We stay in the back in the wooded section. We
will be up there on the 28th (I think) and stay until August 1.
Reservations are suggested but not required.
John Bruzan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Billy Jones <bjones8103(at)yahoo.com> |
Bil & Ron, I'm South of Houston at Alvin Airpark. I've got a Firestar
II, presently disassembled for patch work and paint. I make it to San
Antonio every now and again. Would like to look you up. There is also
a Mark III here in Alvin. BJones in Houston
--- Bil Ragsdale <bilrags@world-net.net> wrote:
> <bilrags@world-net.net>
>
> Well i guess you're already here in San Antonio.
> Haven't been doing my
> homework and reading the list like I should. My
> name is Bil Ragsdale. I'm
> rebuilding a Mk III that was dropped in from about
> 40 feet. If you'd like
> to see it , call me at 340-1000, 573-5750 or at home
> in the evenings at
> 621-2071. All numbers are in the 210 area code. If
> there are any Kolbers
> in San Antonio i haven't been able to locate them.
>
> Thanks, Bil
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron C Reece <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, July 02, 1999 8:56 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: San Antonio
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > Anyone know of any Kolbers in or near San Antonio?
> I'll be there the week
> of
> > July 5th. I wouldn't mind seeing someones
> project. Thanks
> >
> > Ron Reece
> > FireStar parts owner.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> The Kolb-List is sponsored by Matronics, makers
> of fine Aircraft
> Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of
> List members.
>
>
> Matronics:
> http://www.matronics.com
> Kolb-List:
> http://www.matronics.com/kolb-list
> List Subscribe/Unsubscribe:
> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
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> Other Email Lists:
> http://www.matronics.com/other
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/05/99 |
In his post of 7/6 W George stated that his GPS check on his air speed
indicator showed the AIS was 10 mph in the 60 mph range. As readers may
remember I have been trying to get my AIS to be more accurate by trying
different static port locations. I have placed the port 1/ out through a
rivet on one side of the nosecone, 2/ in the opening at the trailing edge of
the nose cone and finally left it on the cockpit floor. I even built a static
tube probe like those used on "real" airplanes. What I have learned so far is
that the pressure in and around the cockpit depends on where it is measured.
The cockpit floor seems about as good as any but the 60 mph range results
were the same as W George's. I'm leaving it there for now because the 35/50
mph range seems to be accurate and consistent. Still working on it,
Duane the plane in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Hydraulic brakes |
I know this information may have been provided with my brakes when I
received them, but my tool box was stolen out of my garage and had a lot
of this paperwork in it. I have the Matco hydraulic brakes and was
wondering how the fill the system with 5606 hydraulic fluid. Do I fill
the reservoir and use the classic open the valve, push the pedal, close
the valve, release the pedal method? Or can I pump fluid backwards
through the system through the valve down on the pucks? As always any
suggestions, insights, comments on the hydraulic brake system is
appreciated.
Big Lar: thanks for the pictures of your brake and rudder trim systems.
I was also not going to use a reservoir with my brakes, I am using two
lengths of tubing with foam filters attached to the ends tie wrapped to
one of the pedals with the ends inserted into the horizontal part of the
pedal. This will make the "reservoir" move when the pedals are
adjusted. There is about a foot of "reservoir" tubing for the cylinders
to draw on, is this enough capacity?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic brakes |
My solution was a windshield washer motor as a pump, a couple
lengths of appropriate tubing, hook 'er up and let 'er pump in a
closed loop ( intake and outflow to the same can). All the bubbles
were soon banished. Use caution that when closing the valve the
hoses will blow off the barbs if the pump is still running.....don't
want any of that stuff in the eyes. I used DOT 5 silicone so you
might want to check whether your fluid is compatible with any
plastic or rubber parts you may devise. I pumped bottom to top of
system.
Additionally, I found that the valves would weep and not seat
the valve threads, and threads at all other fitting locations....no
leaks or air for 4 years now.
>
> I know this information may have been provided with my brakes when I
> received them, but my tool box was stolen out of my garage and had a lot
> of this paperwork in it. I have the Matco hydraulic brakes and was
> wondering how the fill the system with 5606 hydraulic fluid. Do I fill
> the reservoir and use the classic open the valve, push the pedal, close
> the valve, release the pedal method? Or can I pump fluid backwards
> through the system through the valve down on the pucks? As always any
> suggestions, insights, comments on the hydraulic brake system is
> appreciated.
>
> Big Lar: thanks for the pictures of your brake and rudder trim systems.
>
> I was also not going to use a reservoir with my brakes, I am using two
> lengths of tubing with foam filters attached to the ends tie wrapped to
> one of the pedals with the ends inserted into the horizontal part of the
> pedal. This will make the "reservoir" move when the pedals are
> adjusted. There is about a foot of "reservoir" tubing for the cylinders
> to draw on, is this enough capacity?
>
>
>
>
J.Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 <sbaew(at)dames.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic brakes |
I made a call to Matco awhile back to verify the type of fluid to use in
the brake system and remember being told that automatic transmission
fluid was a suitable substitute for the standard 5606 aircraft hydraulic
fluid. As the transmission fluid is easily available at any automotive
store, this might come in handy sometime. Mixing of the two fluids is
not recommended however, so dont use both...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic brakes |
Jason
I used a reservoir and pumped the brakes to flow the 5606 fluid through the
brakes. I found that I had to pump a lot of extra fluid around the system
to clear out the air bubbles. I then discovered that the pumping entrained
air in the fluid and I had to wait for the very small bubbles to rise to
the surface of the reservoir or I just kept making bubbles in the system.
I also had trouble purging air at the top front of the master cylinders.
There seems to be a pocket there that is only vented after the cylinder is
dismounted and oriented to vent the air. I ended up using a tube that
routed the fluid from the brake cylinder back to the reservoir where it
could be recycled. BTW I installed a second set of brakes pedals and
cylinders for the copilot.
Ron
>
>
>I know this information may have been provided with my brakes when I
>received them, but my tool box was stolen out of my garage and had a lot
>of this paperwork in it. I have the Matco hydraulic brakes and was
>wondering how the fill the system with 5606 hydraulic fluid. Do I fill
>the reservoir and use the classic open the valve, push the pedal, close
>the valve, release the pedal method? Or can I pump fluid backwards
>through the system through the valve down on the pucks? As always any
>suggestions, insights, comments on the hydraulic brake system is
>appreciated.
>
>Big Lar: thanks for the pictures of your brake and rudder trim systems.
>
>I was also not going to use a reservoir with my brakes, I am using two
>lengths of tubing with foam filters attached to the ends tie wrapped to
>one of the pedals with the ends inserted into the horizontal part of the
>pedal. This will make the "reservoir" move when the pedals are
>adjusted. There is about a foot of "reservoir" tubing for the cylinders
>to draw on, is this enough capacity?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic brakes |
In a message dated 7/8/1999 10:37:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jason(at)acuityinc.com writes:
> Or can I pump fluid backwards
> through the system through the valve down on the pucks?
The best way of not trapping air in the lines is to pump the fluid backwards
as you describe.
Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
"Ben Cole" ,
"Bob Moorehead" , "Danny Day" ,
"Dave Thomas" ,
"Fly Ultralights" ,
"Glenn Rinck" ,
"Greg Moloney" ,
"Jerry Rooks" ,
"John Hauck" ,
"Kolb Builders" ,
"Sam Cox" ,
"Scott Sharon Wilcox" ,
"Ted Cowan" , "UL REPS" ,
"USUA HQDS"
| Subject: | Fw: B V Airplane Drivers Meeting |
----- Original Message -----
From: <PaulSpadin(at)aol.com>
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 9:32 AM
Subject: Fwd: B V Airplane Drivers Meeting
>
>
name="B V Airplane Drivers Meeting.eml"
filename="B V Airplane Drivers Meeting.eml"
From: Robert_J_Donato(at)icpmech.navy.mil
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 09:39:55 -0400
Subject: B V Airplane Drivers Meeting
Hay Guys,
Wednesday night I had an informal airplane drivers meeting at BVA. Mostly to
talk about airplane noise. In attendance was Jim Poole of the Harrisburg
Flight Standards Office (FSDO). I wanted to let you know, as a member of
CALF, that Jim informed me of the possibility of Congressional Hearings on
Ultralights coming soon to a theater.....er.....chamber near you. Evidently,
the recent events at Shoestring have lead the local complainers from their
township to their congressmen / woman.
Im not sure how far it will go but, no doubt, we ultralighters are really going
to have to watch our "p's" and "q's" alot closer than ever. I have made the
analogy of the sport of Jet Skiing which at one time was unregulated. Now,
most State's have licensensing criteria for both the seaman and the craft due
to a couple of showoffs who didn't know how to behave. With that said,
ultralights may not be far behind. Given the present mentality in Washington,
I fear the worst for our sport. I took the time to call Lew Clement of USUA
to give the organization a "heads-up" on the possibility of these Congressional
hearings.
Here, in the Bermudian Valley / Shreveport / Kample area we now have one such
complainer. It is, indeed, a shame that someone with completely unfounded
problems gets a voice in a large medium, however, this is the world we live
in. A world where everyone is hungry for the "ongoing saga". The media does
not want these problems to go away. To the contrary, they want it to become
even more argumentative in an effort to sell more newspapers or airtime. This
is why my comments to the York Daily Record were used to create a problem that
did not exist and to pit my words against a fellow airport owners words.
Mike, you and Greg did a fine job with the YDR reporters that Sunday at
Shreveport and the outcome was good. I think more ultralight spokesmen need
to be informed of the residual effects of speaking with these people and how
their words may be ultimately used toward the downfall of our sport. I know
this may sound paranoid but I've been stung more than once during my years of
ultralight flying.
Well, I don't know if we solved the quagmire of ultralights at my airport with
this meeting. We did decide to have an airport picnic soon and invite the
locals. Hopefully, it will help squelch the real noise that emanates from at
least one pathetic individual.
Later guys
Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic brakes |
When I blead my my matco's , I took a dish wash plastic bottle, modified
the cap to accept a flexible hose that would fit the bleeder nipple, and I
pumped the fluid up from the caliper to the cylinder. I removed the
cylinder from its mounts so it could be orinated in different positions,
keeping it the high point during the bleeding process. Worked well.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: HGRAFF(at)aol.com <HGRAFF(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, July 08, 1999 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hydraulic brakes
>
>In a message dated 7/8/1999 10:37:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>jason(at)acuityinc.com writes:
>
>> Or can I pump fluid backwards
>> through the system through the valve down on the pucks?
>
>The best way of not trapping air in the lines is to pump the fluid
backwards
>as you describe.
>
>Herb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic brakes |
Jason
I used a pump oil can to pump the fluid backwards through the system. I have
about a foot of clear tubing looped between the cylinders for a reservoir which
seems to be plenty. I have a tee in the middle of the loop with about 3 inches
of tubing pointing straight up that is sealed off on the end and only a very
small hole for a vent. The clear tubing allows for easy preflight fluid check.
Terry
Jason Omelchuck wrote:
>
> I know this information may have been provided with my brakes when I
> received them, but my tool box was stolen out of my garage and had a lot
> of this paperwork in it. I have the Matco hydraulic brakes and was
> wondering how the fill the system with 5606 hydraulic fluid. Do I fill
> the reservoir and use the classic open the valve, push the pedal, close
> the valve, release the pedal method? Or can I pump fluid backwards
> through the system through the valve down on the pucks? As always any
> suggestions, insights, comments on the hydraulic brake system is
> appreciated.
>
> Big Lar: thanks for the pictures of your brake and rudder trim systems.
>
> I was also not going to use a reservoir with my brakes, I am using two
> lengths of tubing with foam filters attached to the ends tie wrapped to
> one of the pedals with the ends inserted into the horizontal part of the
> pedal. This will make the "reservoir" move when the pedals are
> adjusted. There is about a foot of "reservoir" tubing for the cylinders
> to draw on, is this enough capacity?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic brakes |
I used a similar method to the others, to pump the fluid from the wheels
back up through the system to the reservoir. I used Nitrogen, and a back
flush kit, cause I have it available. Very smooth, fast, and easy. Seems
to me that the Matco reservoir came with the wheels and brakes kit. I like
it, gives a reserve in case of a small leak. What I didn't like was the
plastic brake lines. I was told by several people that it's a case of when
they leak, or break, not if. Especially the idea of plastic sitting out in
the sun. With that in mind, I went to NAPA and got 1/8" steel brake lines,
and installed them, with special care toward the idea of vibration damping,
and room for flexing. Getting the right fittings was a bit of a chore.
Looks good, I feel good about it, and it should be a lifetime installation.
If you have the Matco disc brake setup, be sure to check and make sure the
wheels spin true. Mine had a problem with the bearings not pressed in
square, and they wobbled. Matco was great about repairing them, and said
they were adding another inspection point to the assembly line. Still
wouldn't hurt to check. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 7:44 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Hydraulic brakes
>
> I know this information may have been provided with my brakes when I
> received them, but my tool box was stolen out of my garage and had a lot
> of this paperwork in it. I have the Matco hydraulic brakes and was
> wondering how the fill the system with 5606 hydraulic fluid. Do I fill
> the reservoir and use the classic open the valve, push the pedal, close
> the valve, release the pedal method? Or can I pump fluid backwards
> through the system through the valve down on the pucks? As always any
> suggestions, insights, comments on the hydraulic brake system is
> appreciated.
>
> Big Lar: thanks for the pictures of your brake and rudder trim systems.
>
> I was also not going to use a reservoir with my brakes, I am using two
> lengths of tubing with foam filters attached to the ends tie wrapped to
> one of the pedals with the ends inserted into the horizontal part of the
> pedal. This will make the "reservoir" move when the pedals are
> adjusted. There is about a foot of "reservoir" tubing for the cylinders
> to draw on, is this enough capacity?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hydraulic brakes |
What I didn't like was the
> plastic brake lines. I was told by several people that it's a case of when
> they leak, or break, not if. Especially the idea of plastic sitting out in
> the sun. With that in mind, I went to NAPA and got 1/8" steel brake lines,
Big Lar.
>
***************************************************
Big Lar and Kolbers:
Maybe I can put your minds to rest about plastic brake
lines. Installed brake lines in 1991. That is 8 years
ago. Have nearly 1300 hours on them and the airframe. Many
thousand landings and max braking just about every touch
down. I like to land short and stop quick. I am still on
the original master cylinders and plastic brake lines.
However, Mattingly, head hog at MATCO, gave me some double
puck calipers and new disc to use. The old single puck
calipers had worn and the pucks were trying to rotate the
wrong way in the caliper.
Plastic much easier to work with and lighter. Just a guess
but probably much less susceptible to vibration than steel.
More than pleased with plastic performance and longevity.
john h
PS: Double pucks just about doubled the braking power of
the MATCOs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
I added new pictures of last weekend's fly-by to my webpage.
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
find the Kolb Mark III pictures page and then click on the 5 picture links
inside the yellow colored box.
Frank Reynen MKIII@522 hrs
Hi all,
Found this ad on a seaplane bulletin board.....
Kolb Mark II on full lotus floats, New Rotax 582, new
warp drive prop, BRS, intercom, redone in 1994, red
white and blue, pretty airplane, asking 18,000 OBO,call
601-798-7049 or email, rigaud(at)ametro.net. thanks
Maybe someone you know is ready to go lookin for water.
Paul Thieme, Minnesota
Firefly, newly finished, flown, and foundered
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dscott12(at)yxybecker.09.ca |
| Subject: | Search Engine Registration adv |
I saw your listing on the internet. I work
for a company that submits websites to search
engines. We can submit your website to over
350 of the worlds best search engines and
directories for a one time charge of only
$39.95. If you would like your web site
to receive more traffic call me on our
toll-free number listed below.
All work is verified!
Sincerely,
David Scott
(888) 892-7537
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Fletcher" <bwf(at)emailmn.com> |
I'll add my site to Franks..... another Kolb on floats
http://www.metroflorida.com/plane/
----- Original Message -----
From: <Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com>
Sent: Friday, July 09, 1999 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb/floats
>
> I added new pictures of last weekend's fly-by to my webpage.
>
> http://www.webcom.com/reynen
> find the Kolb Mark III pictures page and then click on the 5 picture
links
> inside the yellow colored box.
>
> Frank Reynen MKIII@522 hrs
>
>
> Hi all,
> Found this ad on a seaplane bulletin board.....
>
>
> Kolb Mark II on full lotus floats, New Rotax 582, new
> warp drive prop, BRS, intercom, redone in 1994, red
> white and blue, pretty airplane, asking 18,000 OBO,call
> 601-798-7049 or email, rigaud(at)ametro.net. thanks
> Maybe someone you know is ready to go lookin for water.
>
>
> Paul Thieme, Minnesota
> Firefly, newly finished, flown, and foundered
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
Hi Bruce,I looked at your site and the plane looks great!
What prop do you have on the MKIII?
Frank R
I'll add my site to Franks..... another Kolb on floats
http://www.metroflorida.com/plane/
----- Original Message -----
From: <Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com>
Sent: Friday, July 09, 1999 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb/floats
>
> I added new pictures of last weekend's fly-by to my webpage.
>
> http://www.webcom.com/reynen
> find the Kolb Mark III pictures page and then click on the 5 picture
links
> inside the yellow colored box.
>
> Frank Reynen MKIII@522 hrs
>
>
> Hi all,
> Found this ad on a seaplane bulletin board.....
>
>
> Kolb Mark II on full lotus floats, New Rotax 582, new
> warp drive prop, BRS, intercom, redone in 1994, red
> white and blue, pretty airplane, asking 18,000 OBO,call
> 601-798-7049 or email, rigaud(at)ametro.net. thanks
> Maybe someone you know is ready to go lookin for water.
>
>
> Paul Thieme, Minnesota
> Firefly, newly finished, flown, and foundered
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Fletcher" <bwf(at)emailmn.com> |
Frank it's an IVO magnum 70"
Bruce
----- Original Message -----
From: <Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com>
Sent: Friday, July 09, 1999 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb/floats
>
> Hi Bruce,I looked at your site and the plane looks great!
> What prop do you have on the MKIII?
> Frank R
>
>
>
> I'll add my site to Franks..... another Kolb on floats
>
>
> http://www.metroflorida.com/plane/
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, July 09, 1999 1:25 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb/floats
>
>
> >
> > I added new pictures of last weekend's fly-by to my webpage.
> >
> > http://www.webcom.com/reynen
> > find the Kolb Mark III pictures page and then click on the 5 picture
> links
> > inside the yellow colored box.
> >
> > Frank Reynen MKIII@522 hrs
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cunningham" <dave44m(at)hotmail.com> |
test
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cunningham" <dave44m(at)hotmail.com> |
I am preparing to sell my Kolb Firestar. Any suggestions on to where I can
advertise this ultralight. It is in excellent shape and a prize to fly.
Thanks Dave Cunningham
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Howdy Gang:
Chatted with Bruce Chesnut this morning reference OSH 99.
The company Fire Fly now sports little ailerons instead of
the barn doors I flew with at S&F. Seems like the new guys
are listening when we talk. The oversize ailerons were the
only real complaint I had flying the Fire Fly. The wind at
Lakeland can become quite challenging to fly in the UL
pattern. My problem was trying to hold the stick while
taxiing and waiting for takeoff with the tail in the wind.
Would wear me out before I go in the air trying to hold that
wild thing. ;-)
At S&F I quickly discovered the Fire Fly, which I had no
interest, avoided and had never flown before, to be a very
exciting little hot rod. For a 40 hp aircraft, it performs
better than my old '85 Fire Star, and the old FS with 40 hp
was no slouch.
I'll be flying the FF as well as the new Sling Shot at OSH.
Take a look at the SS under construction and see what is
sitting on top of it:
http://www.ckaviationfoundation.com/our_photo_album.htm
Those red valve covers look vaguely similar to the 912S,
100hp. Naw, they wouldn't turn me loose with that. hehehe
I plan on leaving hauck's holler on 19 Jul in my old Dodge
and 5th wheel. Should make London, Ky, same day. Will get
some time in the FF and Sling Shot prior to their departure
for OSH. After a few days will depart for OSH and should
arrive Thurs or Fri, 22 or 23 Jul.
Am looking forward to seeing all you guys in a couple
weeks. Be sure and look me up. I'll be busy flying and
getting those darned boring OSH UL briefings, but I'll be at
the Kolb trailer a lot and if not will be in my 5th wheel in
the UL Camp Ground. Stop by and chew the fat.
john h (hauck's holler, alabama)
PS: Almost forgot. "Dirty" Dick Rayhill will be flying the
Fire Star, as usual, and Bill Martin will be there to turn
the wrenches and help us keep all The New Kolb Aircraft in
the air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Dave,
Write your ad and mail it to us on this Kolb list. There are a lot of
"wanabee's" on the list. Some members are trying to learn about Kolbs so they
can decide if they want to build or buy one. Last summer, after finishing my
Firestar II, I sold my original Firestar to another list member.
John Jung
Dave Cunningham wrote:
>
> I am preparing to sell my Kolb Firestar. Any suggestions on to where I can
> advertise this ultralight. It is in excellent shape and a prize to fly.
> Thanks Dave Cunningham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Poly Fiber Aircraft Coatings |
Attn. All Kolbers
Kolb Co.'s previous supplier for Poly Fiber materials was Randy at R&R, but
he had retired from the business and I wasn't sure just where I should go to
get continued good service.
Well, someone recently posted a phone number (877-877-3334) to the list, so I
thought I would give them a try.
The company I reached is Aircraft Technical Support, Inc., located in Orient,
OH and is run by Jim and Dondi Miller.
Dondi answered the phone and although my order was only for a very small
amount of paint, she took the time to explain in detail everything I needed
to know, and then some. When I received the package via UPS a couple of days
later and opened the box, what a surprise. The peanuts they used for shock
absorbing are of a type that do not create dust. They included a new color
card, a current price list, a flyer about Invisible Glove pomade, another
flyer concerning an upcoming Alexander SportAir Center - Aircraft Builders
Workshop scheduled for July 10-11th which will be held right at their place,
and even one paint strainer for free. The invoice is professionally done
with everything spelled correctly, and Dondi even signed it with a little
smiley face inside the letter D. All of this was enclosed in a bright red
plastic bag.
Small things to be sure, but it just points out that they are committed to
providing First Class Service.
As I said earlier, someone on the list recommended them by posting their
number and I just wanted to confirm to all the Kolbers that they are one of
the good ones to do business with.
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ USA
Original FireStar 377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UL Classified URL |
Try this URL below, it has a very good list of UL related posting.
Jerryb
http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/WWW/ULTRA/class_USA.html
>
>I am preparing to sell my Kolb Firestar. Any suggestions on to where I can
>advertise this ultralight. It is in excellent shape and a prize to fly.
>Thanks Dave Cunningham
>
>
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
----------
> From: Norman Labhart <njlabhart(at)kih.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
I for one would welcome hearing from the new Kolb Company. Its kinda
like a letter from home. I personally am interested in the Laser. It looks
good so far.
You have my vote
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
<< I am preparing to sell my Kolb Firestar. Any suggestions on to where I
can
advertise this ultralight. It is in excellent shape and a prize to fly.
Thanks Dave Cunningham >>
Dave
Advertise it on this list and be sure to tell us where it is located. Do not
archive.
Bill Varnes
Audubon NJ USA
Original FireStar 377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
A once a week status from TNK would be very greatly appreciated. I want to
keep up with design updates/changes as I build.
Topher
FSII
building ailerons.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DRMusgrove(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
Hello Dana & Norm!
Another option would be to include NetMinder or other free update service to
your website so only those who wish to be updated would be. The services
generally include several options for frequency of update based on the amount
of change on the website that the list member could choose by personal
preference.
I, personally, would appreciate postings of major updates - leaving the minor
updates notified by a web-minding service in separate email.
Thanks!
David M.
>
> Greetings Kolb mailing list,
>
> My name is Norm Labhart. My wife, Dana, and I are the webmaster's
> for the New Kolb Aircraft website. I am sending this email to "test the
> waters" concerning web site announcements. While I feel the web site
> would be of interest to the mailing lists objectives, some may feel
> that it is a commercial endeavor and should not be on the list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cunningham" <dave44m(at)hotmail.com> |
Kolb Firestar KXP for sale. Rotax 503 82 hrs. TT. Dual ignition. Ground
adjustable 3 blade prop. Instruments ASI. CHT. EGT. ALT. TACH. Fuel
press.Hobbs meter. Wheel pants.Full enclosure. Stits fabric and finish.
Super nice. Always hangared. $9.000 NEW YORK Call 315 287
2759.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Ping" <hping(at)hyperaction.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
From: Norman Labhart <njlabhart(at)kih.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site
Send reply to: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
from hping(at)hyperaction.net please include me on your mailing list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber Aircraft Coatings |
Hi Gang:
I also placed a small order with Jim and Dondi and received the same
excellent service Bill did. They even sent me a partial roll of finishing
tape since I didn't need but a small amount at no charge. Very professional
and I highly recommend them.
Later,
John Cooley
----- Original Message -----
From: <WVarnes(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 10, 1999 6:18 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Poly Fiber Aircraft Coatings
>
> Attn. All Kolbers
>
> Kolb Co.'s previous supplier for Poly Fiber materials was Randy at R&R,
> Well, someone recently posted a phone number (877-877-3334) to the list,
so I thought I would give them a try.
> The company I reached is Aircraft Technical Support, Inc., located in
Orient, OH and is run by Jim and Dondi Miller.
> Dondi answered the phone and although my order was only for a very small
> amount of paint, she took the time to explain in detail everything I
needed
> to know, and then someThey included a new color
> card, a current price list, a flyer about Invisible Glove pomade, another
> flyer concerning an upcoming Alexander SportAir Center - Aircraft Builders
> Workshop scheduled for July 10-11th which will be held right at their
place,
> and even one paint strainer for free. The invoice is professionally done
> with everything spelled correctly, and Dondi even signed it with a little
> smiley face inside the letter . >
> Small things to be sure, but it just points out that they are committed to
> providing First Class Service.
> Bill Varnes
> Audubon NJ USA
> Original FireStar 377
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Is there a source where I can buy a small quantity of Poly paint for touch up
purposes?
I don't need a quart, more like half a pint, or even less.
Thanks,
KW
kw93(at)wcoil.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dleister <dleister(at)eriecoast.com> |
>
> Is there a source where I can buy a small quantity of Poly paint for touch up
> purposes?
> I don't need a quart, more like half a pint, or even less.
> Thanks,
Give Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. Jim and Dondi Miller a
call.(877-877-3334) The last time I talked to Dondi, she said she could ship
small quantities of paint without the hazardous materials cost. I wouldn't go
less then a quart, the stuff keeps for ever and even a little hanger rash will
take a pint to fix.
I live within flying distance of Millertime airport (owned by Jim and Dondi
Miller) and I think they are the nicest people you ever want to meet. If you are
ever flying in the area of Columbus Oh be sure to land and visit them.
One more thing. Dondi gave me a piece of teflon material, 6" x 4" x .006"
thick. It looks like a piece of thick plastic you would use to make temporary
storm windows, but it is pure teflon. This little piece of Teflon will save
you a lot of time and aggravation when you try to iron down little points of tape
or a bump of glue that you missed before the poly spray went on. You can iron
over paint or poly spray without leaving iron marks. You have to be patient and
wait for the teflon to cool before lifting it off, but when you pull it off there
will be no iron marks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "notusers(at)knix.net" <notusers(at)knix.net> |
| Subject: | The user does not exist |
This user does not exist at knix.net or the account has been closed.
Please check your address and try again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "notusers(at)knix.net" <notusers(at)knix.net> |
| Subject: | The user does not exist |
This user does not exist at knix.net or the account has been closed.
Please check your address and try again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "notusers(at)knix.net" <notusers(at)knix.net> |
| Subject: | The user does not exist |
This user does not exist at knix.net or the account has been closed.
Please check your address and try again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "notusers(at)knix.net" <notusers(at)knix.net> |
| Subject: | The user does not exist |
This user does not exist at knix.net or the account has been closed.
Please check your address and try again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "notusers(at)knix.net" <notusers(at)knix.net> |
| Subject: | The user does not exist |
This user does not exist at knix.net or the account has been closed.
Please check your address and try again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
The New Kolb Aircraft, London, KY
Gents:
Am doggedly building at FF 076 in this miserable Florida heat...
Yesterday, as I was running the throttle and choke cables, it suddenly
dawned
on me that there was no welded attachment bracket for the choke lever on my
fuselage cage...
I got out the photos I took of fuselage details on the Fireflys you folks
brought
to SNF this year and last... Sure 'nuff, they both have the bracket,
complete with
cable splitter tube welded to the frame. Checking the plans, they show the
bracket
and make reference to the cable splitter...
My fuselage cage has only a welded tab with a hole about the size of a
quarter,
several inches below where the photos show the bracket to be on the SNF
aircraft.
Would you please enlighten this poor 'ol country boy as to what arrangement
y'all
had in mind for the choke control on this thing...? Did I miss something
here...?
Thanks,
Bewildered in Brandon... (still...)
Bill Tuton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Ping" <hping(at)hyperaction.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
Greeting's
Please add me to the list.
hping(at)hyperaction.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
Thought it was automatic, but if not: Me too. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Howard Ping <hping(at)hyperaction.net>
Sent: Monday, July 12, 1999 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site
>
> Greeting's
> Please add me to the list.
> hping(at)hyperaction.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Dorsey <rmd-mcse(at)home.com> |
Beauford,
They forgot to weld a bracket on my cage also. Dennis sent me a nice
quality "clamp on" bracket to recieve the cable. I think I like it better
this way, it allows you to place it in a location of your choice.
>
>The New Kolb Aircraft, London, KY
>
>Gents:
>Am doggedly building at FF 076 in this miserable Florida heat...
>
>Yesterday, as I was running the throttle and choke cables, it suddenly
>dawned
>on me that there was no welded attachment bracket for the choke lever on my
>fuselage cage...
>I got out the photos I took of fuselage details on the Fireflys you folks
>brought
>to SNF this year and last... Sure 'nuff, they both have the bracket,
>complete with
>cable splitter tube welded to the frame. Checking the plans, they show the
>bracket
>and make reference to the cable splitter...
>My fuselage cage has only a welded tab with a hole about the size of a
>quarter,
>several inches below where the photos show the bracket to be on the SNF
>aircraft.
>Would you please enlighten this poor 'ol country boy as to what arrangement
>y'all
>had in mind for the choke control on this thing...? Did I miss something
>here...?
>Thanks,
>Bewildered in Brandon... (still...)
>Bill Tuton
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heritage" <heritage(at)prtel.com> |
They forgot to weld a bracket on my cage also. Dennis sent me a nice
quality "clamp on" bracket to recieve the cable. I think I like it better
this way, it allows you to place it in a location of your choice.
You guys aren't alone. The firefly we just finished had no
splitter/bracket either. But since we are straightening and welding the
cage after a bad day anyway, we are going to add one ourselves.
Another improvement we are going to make is to add a tube and move the
rudder pedals and heel brakes back about 4". I am 6'3" and can operate
those controls ok, but my more vertically challenged father in law cannot.
Paul Thieme
Firefly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tony.deb" <tony.deb(at)cwix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
sounds good to me--add to list tony.deb(at)cwix.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Howard Ping <hping(at)hyperaction.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 13, 1999 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site
>
>Greeting's
>Please add me to the list.
> hping(at)hyperaction.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
If the Firefly's are being built like my Firestar II, it has a primer
attachment point and no place for a remote choke. I had been used to a choke,
but I figured I would try it with just the primer and see if I needed a remote
choke. It took me a little while to learn the use the primer, but now I can
start the engine with fewer pulls than with a choke. And on a 503, the fewer
pulls, the better.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | JPI vs. Matronics |
Dear fellow aviators,
Received some sad words from Matt that JPI has taken their dispute to
the courts. Please check out . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/matronix.html
and help out if you can . . . Dee and I have "seeded"
this fund to the tune of $300. Matt is going to need
a lot more before this is over. First day's response
has been very good . . . it only takes a little bit
from everyone to make a BIG difference. $10 from each
of the lists members would go a long way.
We tried to embarass JPI into seeing the light, now it's
time to show them that the community of aviation consumers
will support its friends.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Tie wrapping Hydraulic lines |
I am using tie wraps to secure the hydraulic lines to various tubes,
should I put anti chafe tape between the lines and the steel tubing it
is being tie wrapped to?
________________________________________________________________________________
I've recently purchased a 1994 Firestar II from Bob Bucholz in Quincy, FL,
and am trying to find the original and past owners of this FS II. It would be
nice to find any damage history or significant info that may be of use to me.
The mailing label on the plans show "Donald Miller of St. Petersburg, FL,"
however, none of the currently listed "Donald Millers" in St. Pete is the
original pwner. Do any of you know the whereabouts of a Donald Miller, past
Firestar owner?
Also, I'm told that a second owner was a south-Georgia resident and a piece
of general mail in the builder's manual is addressed to "Resident, Route 5,
Colquitt, Georgia". Would any of you know this "resident"?
Thanks for the help.
Charlie
ulflyer(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tie wrapping Hydraulic lines |
Jason Omelchuck wrote:
>
>
> I am using tie wraps to secure the hydraulic lines to various tubes,
> should I put anti chafe tape between the lines and the steel tubing it
> is being tie wrapped to?
Jason and Kolbers:
Your call.
I didn't use anti-chafing tape. Tie wrapped those plastic
lines to tubes inside the fuselage and gear legs outside.
Working on 1300 hours with no apparent problems.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: JPI vs. Matronics |
I'm more than willing to help, but I'm a little concerned. Is that a secure
website to post my credit card #'s on ?? Let me know. Big
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 1999 4:45 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: JPI vs. Matronics
>
> Dear fellow aviators,
>
> Received some sad words from Matt that JPI has taken their dispute to
> the courts. Please check out . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/matronix.html
>
> and help out if you can . . . Dee and I have "seeded"
> this fund to the tune of $300. Matt is going to need
> a lot more before this is over. First day's response
> has been very good . . . it only takes a little bit
> from everyone to make a BIG difference. $10 from each
> of the lists members would go a long way.
>
> We tried to embarass JPI into seeing the light, now it's
> time to show them that the community of aviation consumers
> will support its friends.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> =================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douglas G. Murray" <dgmurray(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tie wrapping Hydraulic lines |
Jason Omelchuck wrote:
>
> I am using tie wraps to secure the hydraulic lines to various tubes,
> should I put anti chafe tape between the lines and the steel tubing it
> is being tie wrapped to?
>
Jason - Please consider using Adell clamps to secure your hydraulic lines to the
steel tubing. They are a little more money but are the best item for the job.
With that said, I have seen many installations with a tie wrap going around the
hydraulic line into a 1/2" piece of rubber tubing, around the steel tubing, back
through the rubber standoff piece and secured to itself. This works reasonably
well and will need to be replaced as the UV degrades the nylon tie wrap. The
Adell clamp on the other hand will probably out last the aircraft.
Doug Murray FireStar 1
Southern Alberta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator horns too tight? |
Kolb Support and the List,
I have hit a bit of a snag with the elevator horns on the Mark III. There
was a thread on this subject back in March on the list, so I know I'm not the
only one with this problem. I looked through the archives and I just never
found a definite solution to the problem. The problem is that when the steel
tube is squeezed for welding it swells about 3/16" as best I can tell. So
what you have is a 15/16" elevator horn trying to fit in a 3/4" ID elevator
leading edge tube. It has to go in a preety good ways in order to get the
1/2" gap specified between the fuselage tube and the inside edge of the
horisontal stabilizer.
I can only think of two options:
1) Sand the elevator horn sides for a couple of days. The only problem
with this is that the walls of the tubing on the sides will be paper thin if
not gone.
2) Line the horn up, measure the distance it has to go in, pray, close
eyes, and hammer it like H____ until it deforms the elevator leading edge
tube enough to go in. The only problem with this solution is that there will
be no second chances or adjustments.
Appreciate any and all help,
John Bickham
Mark III
St. Francisville, LA
N308JB (assigned)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horns too tight? |
> 2) Line the horn up, measure the distance it has to go in, pray, close
> eyes, and hammer it like H____ until it deforms the elevator leading edge
> tube enough to go in. The only problem with this solution is that there will
> be no second chances or adjustments.
>
> Appreciate any and all help,
>
> John Bickham
> Mark III
> St. Francisville, LA
> N308JB (assigned)
John:
Contact The New Kolb Aircraft (TNKA) and have them send you
a horn that fits.
john h
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Halstead" <deanbo(at)calweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TNK service, alive and well! |
I hate to rain on your parade or all the laughing and giggling but I'm in my
fifth week of phone calls to both the "Old Kolb" and "The New Kolb" in
trying to get a simple order filled.
Dean Halstead
MK-III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TNK service, alive and well! |
> I hate to rain on your parade or all the laughing and giggling but I'm in my
> fifth week of phone calls to both the "Old Kolb" and "The New Kolb" in
> trying to get a simple order filled.
>
> Dean Halstead
> MK-III
Dean:
Hang in there. 5 weeks pretty much encompasses Kolb's move
from Pa to Ky.
I experienced some problems with communications last week.
I was talking to Ester in Pa, she had to relay my msg to Ky
via FAX. Easy to get things out of kilter when trying to
operate like that. I understand they have the commo problem
corrected.
Contact me bc if you wish. I will be at TNKA Monday
evening, Lord willing and the creek don't rise. I am
willing to try and help with your problems.
I've ordered and built 3 Kolb aircraft over the last 15
years. I know the feeling of needing a part and not getting
it when I wanted it. Can become most frustrating. I am
sure you will be taken care of soon, just like me and a
whole bunch of other Kolb builders have in the past. If
not, let em know about it.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Fellow Kolbites... Kolbers...? Kolbings...??
Seem to be stuck with what oughta be a pretty simple item...
I don't seem to be able to find a valid URL for the New Kolb empire in
London....
Finally called the phone number provided as the Kentucky office... to my
surprise, gool 'ol Esther
answered in Pennsylvania... said Pa. was temporarily protecting for the Ky.
operation on the phone...
Asked her to verify the URL I had... tnkolbaircraft@sun-spot ... she said it
was good to go as read .... I ran it several times
in different variants on the net, trying to get help with the choke cable
problem... got one dummy flag after another from
the e-mail god...
Anyone have a "better" (like accurate) URL for TNK ?
Much obliged...
Beauford in Brandon
FF 076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com
>If the Firefly's are being built like my Firestar II, it has a primer
>attachment point and no place for a remote choke. I had been used to a
choke,
>but I figured I would try it with just the primer and see if I needed a
remote
>choke. It took me a little while to learn the use the primer, but now I
can
>start the engine with fewer pulls than with a choke. And on a 503, the
fewer
>pulls, the better.
>
>John Jung
Finally got the starting process down on my new-to-me MkII with 6.4 hrs on
new pistons (thanks to some tutoring from Jack, who rebuilt the 503):
Throttle closed, prime till it gets resistance, (remote) enrichener on, pull
twice with kill switch closed, switch open and with 1 pull I don't have to
make vrooom vrooom noises any more. Was mighty sore for a few days after my
first faulty attempts tho.
One problem remains - in those 6.4 hrs, the recoil rope has chewed up the
nylon wheels on 2 pulleys. Got another pulley with an alum. wheel on order
from the local boating supply. Anyone else have this problem?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/14/99 |
how about I "tink I'lbe able" to climb over that tree better than many other
planes. Could not resist it. G'day Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us> |
Kolb-List
| Subject: | Oil injection hose replacement |
I found I have a leak in the hose that runs from the oil res. to the oil
injection pump on my 503. I want to replace the hose and have two
questions.
1. What kinda hose do I replace it with? Where can I get it locally?
2. What do I have to do, if anything, after I replace the hose to insure
oil to the fuel supply. Is there some kinda purging I have to do or
will gravity take care of the problem?
I did not build the plane so I don't have these answers.
Thanks for the help
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
gthacker(at)mciu.org
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Gosling <jag(at)norquay.com> |
| Subject: | Landing on glaciers |
Charlie Russell, of the Kamchatka Grizzly Bear project, added a new
entry
to the project diary that might be of interest to the kolb crowd. It's
at
http://www.norquay.com/grizzlies/1999/July/14/index.html
If you're looking for tips on landing a Kolb on a glacier on a volcano
in Far Eastern Siberia, you'll find them here...
name="jag.vcf"
filename="jag.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Gosling;James
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:jag(at)norquay.com
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
> Please add me to the list.
Kim Steiner Saskatchewan, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Hi Gang
I have been grounded all summer with a problem and I am now giving up and
asking the list for help. My Hirth engine will not let go of it's flywheel
so I can check the point plate and some other internal workings. I have
tried pulling from the outside ring with a gear puller, from the proper
puller holes, I have beat it, I have heated it, I have damaged other parts
trying to get the SOB off. I have done a combination of all of those and it
still stays on. Does anyone else have a surefire way of getting it off? I do
not think I can cool the shaft with dry ice to the the crank end due to
surface area available. I can't even tear apart the rest of the engine and
get in behind it because the point plate is attached to the block. Hellllp
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/16/99 |
Dont know about the Hearth engine but I had a Cuyuna U20II that had a pin
driven in the gear through the crank that you could not see without a mag.
glass. Could that be a possibility? Just trying to help. G'day Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
for sale. My Mk 3. 582. Has floats and wheels. Fly's fine. Scares
hell out of me in turbulence. 23000 invested. 19000 price.
Trailer available. Enclosed, custom made for the Kolb.4000.The
plane on floats fits inside, so its a big one.Midcoast Maine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Barton <barton(at)ameslab.gov> |
Could anyone out there tell me what are the torque values to
put a 3-blade Warp Drive prop back on a Rotax? Also need a
tailwheel for a Kolb Mark II which was destroyed (the
tailwheel, not the plane) in a UHaul truck last night on the
way from New Orleans to Iowa. If I had these two things
I could be flying my new plane on this beautiful day. Incidentally
this is the Mark II with a 582 on Full Lotus amphibious floats
that someone posted a copy of the advertisement about a
week ago. Very pretty bird!
Thanks,
tom
Tom Barton
Director, Ames Laboratory
Director, Institute of Physical Research & Technology
Distinguished Professor of Chemistry
Iowa State University
Ames, Iowa 50011
Phone: 515-294-2770
Fax: 515-294-4456
________________________________________________________________________________
I used a wheel I found in a hardware store. It is plastic I wider than the
wheel Kolb used. (so it will not leave a track in soft grass). Or the wheel
that the plane came
with (mine is a twinstar) was a bogie wheel for a snowmobile.
Just as a side note. I have had my twinstar (the old open kind) for a few
years. I
was almost ready to solo & it got cold. Then the snow flew. I was almost
done
with my hanger when we had a heavy snow & the roof came down. I had to
rebuild
the hanger & the plane. I had a lot of help with the plane. Then I had to
work all the
time. When I had time off it was rainy, windy or no instructor. Well, I had
some time
in a rans s-12 last weekend. And I will have some on Sunday (tomorrow). I
things
go well I should be set to go. After 3 years of having a Kolb I will fly it
solo (hopefully).
So the lesson here is if you are building a hanger don't wait to put in bolt
to hold it
together. Don't say I can do that later. Later will come a day or two after
the hanger
falls in.
mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DRMusgrove(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Taildragger Lessons |
In a message dated 7/17/99 2:48:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Larry Bourne
writes:
> "I don't have any left aileron control," I
> hollered back, as I started feeding in throttle. "I've got the airplane,"
> John yelled. I was well trained in Port Angeles, WA. by Roger Hanson, and
> let go instantly, and held my hands up, to show it. Seconds later, he
said,
> "Ah, got it," the plane straightened out, and he landed. We went on to
give
> me back the controls, and make another take-off. Whole adventure took
maybe
> 3 or 4 seconds, start to finish, but things were really crackling there.
> What had happened, was that plywood box had slid back, and around on the
> slick floor, to jam the stick in the back seat. If we had been a few feet
> closer to the ground, or in a stronger crosswind, or in a different
> position, or some such, it could have been very nasty. Very ! ! ! So, it
> was a lesson well learned - the easy way.
Reminds me of a fly-out the local club had where a Firestar II aborted
takeoff and went off the end of the runway without incident (whew!). Turns
out the passenger's wallet had slipped out of his pocket and jammed the
controls. Fortunately, it was calm and reduced power settled it back on the
remaining runway and off the end to rest in a gulley. Check your pockets
guys!
FWIW,
David M.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
Ron, I too bought that fuel pump.I got the filter too. This thing
sucks. The thing always has some gas left in it no matter what you do to
drain it after using. A week later you go to use it and first thing
comes out is a brown quart of old fuel. And the first time the suction
hose drains down into your sneaker you ain't gonna like it. 20 minutes
later your foot going to be on fire. And I never spilled as much gas as
this thing drains out onto the floor if you don't get it put away just
so.Firehazard? I still use mine, But I pump the first fuel everytime
into another can before I put the fuel into the plane.
Man, I really needed to flame something. Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Leslie Johnston" <johnston(at)intrepid.net> |
I'm new to the list and am looking to purchase a Mark III kit when the new
prices come out of Kentucky. Any input from any Mark III Drivers would be
appreciated, also looking to purchase a GPS and would like to know what you
folks think might be the best for the money, I don't need anything fancy,
just something that is affordable and will take care of me navigation. I
look forward to hearing from you Mark III folks and will thank you in
advance!! Bill Johnston Jr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 7/18/99 12:13:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
johnston(at)intrepid.net writes:
<< I don't need anything fancy,
just something that is affordable and will take care of me navigation. >>
Some of the older garmin units with aviation databases are available quite
cheap. The 55 is a fine unit and the 95 has a decent moving map. I have
seen them for under $300.00.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/17/99 |
Just another chance to voice my views. My Wonderful Lady likes to fly
occasionally but she waited a long time until she fell for a Ferguson . She
liked the easy entry and the way it flies. The big thing is she felt
comfortable with the BFI and his abilities also. She is content (bless her
heart) to fly occasionally so we can share the beauty of the sport and the
world below. I would love to have a Ferg some day so she would ride with me.
(I really do think a MkII or III would do) but that would be only on
occasion so I would be alone in that big airplane and everyone would want
rides which I do not really like to give. I am content with my little
firestar (circa 86) built four years ago. My 447 pushes me wherever I want
and to what highths I desire. We must always remember - the feelings and
drive we have for what we do is not commonly shared with the community. What
we do is very special and the people we do it with are very special. The
others tolerate us and sometimes hate us and persecute us but they are the
loosers because they do not enjoy the majestic wonders we are able to achieve
above the earth. They are content with Football and baseball and Golf on TV
while we are achievers. I do not choose to watch. I choose to participate
and the others in my sport are as nice and wonderful as the feelings I
receive from the action of the air. My life, my choice, and my Lover enjoys
me doing it. I just wanted to share an inner feeling for you out there upon
the quest to get your mate to fly with you. Love her in a special way
because she Loves you and what you do. A lot of Ladies do not and would
not. (green eggs and ham, sam) G'day Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
Woody,
I 've been down that frustrating road! In desperation, I followed the
(crazy to me) advise of my mechanic buddy. He told me to put some oil on the
flywheel, have the gear puller installed & under pressure, then heat the
flywheel till the oil smokes. At that point, tap the flywheel with a small
hammer. I did that & it popped right off. Apparently, the small hammer induces
an effective vibration that the larger hammer I was using did not. I had spent
days on that problem & was so exasperated that would have used dynamite if it
were available. That little hammer amazed me! ...Richard S
wood wrote:
Hi Gang
I have been grounded all summer with a problem and I am now giving up and
asking the list for help. My Hirth engine will not let go of it's flywheel
so I can check the point plate and some other internal workings. I have
tried pulling from the outside ring with a gear puller, from the proper
puller holes, I have beat it, I have heated it, I have damaged other parts
trying to get the SOB off. I have done a combination of all of those and it
still stays on. Does anyone else have a surefire way of getting it off? I do
not think I can cool the shaft with dry ice to the the crank end due to
surface area available. I can't even tear apart the rest of the engine and
get in behind it because the point plate is attached to the block. Hellllp
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flying with a companion |
Hi Ted;
Thanks for the kind and thoughtful words regarding flying with your
sweetheart. My wife has no problem with my flying activities; she knows how
much I love it and she continues to encourage me to fly. It is just a pity
that we will no longer be sharing the splendor of viewing God's creation from
a few thousand feet.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
________________________________________________________________________________
Bill & Leslie Johnston wrote: quote - - -also looking to purchase a GPS and
would like to know what you folks think might be the best for the money - -
unquote.
Bill, if you fly in somewhat complex airspace, then I recommend a GPS with
moving map. It is great for knowing exactly who's airspace you are in.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flying With a Sweetie |
Richard Pike wrote: quote - - Is there any chance your sweetie might be
willing to
start back in at that level and be content on enjoying some peaceful sunset
flights with you? - - unquote.
I am afraid that her light plane flying days are over. She really has become
terrified of the process. You are correct about smooth sunset flights;
that's what we were trying to do. It just didn't work out that way. Thanks
for the kind thoughts.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
From the WarpDrive instruction sheet...
Torque 1/4" bolts to 100-120 inch lbs (= 9-10 ft lbs)
Torque 5/16" or 8mm bolts to 175 inch lbs (= 14.5 ft lbs)
-Ben Ransom
>
>Could anyone out there tell me what are the torque values to
>put a 3-blade Warp Drive prop back on a Rotax? Also need a
>tailwheel for a Kolb Mark II which was destroyed (the
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
I too thought it was automatic, but if not, please add me to the list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
To Kolb list and all...
I wanted to pass along a good experiance doing business with a company. (It
seems when you do good people rarely mention it but when you do bad
EVERYBODY mentions it so I thought I would be fair to this fellow.) I
ordered Kit 1 for a Mark 3 back during Sun-n-Fun and despite all the hoopla
that the Kolb Company is going through right now my order was shipped on
time with nothing missing or backordered (great service so far guys ,
thanks!!!) But I decided at the time that I ordered my kit that I would
just epoxy prime it myself and save a few dollars....BAD IDEA!!! When I
priced the epoxy and a spray gun and building a spray booth and etc. I
realized that that was just adding headaches and time that I already didn't
have anyway so I started trying to find someone to powdercoat my parts
locally. Well I found a fellow in Albany, Ga. who is been in business a
little over a year and is really working to please his customers to get a
good client base going. He was very knowledgable about what was required to
handle aircraft parts as he has a contract with a company called Casello
(sp) that is a subcontractor to Cessna and Piper for their welded parts
(engine mounts , etc.) and this guy powdercoats them for them. Anyway he
was willing to take my 25 pieces (That's all the steel parts in Kit 1) and
coat them for $200!!! (If that sounds expensive you obviously haven't gottn
many prices for this stuff. )When I told him that I would drive them to
Albany from Columbus,Ga on the next Saturday morning he said "Hey , I live
in Dawson (about halfway between Columbus and Albany and saved about 45
minutes of driving time) I'll just meet you in town and get the stuff from
you there , to save you some time..." Any way he also was able to
powdercoat in about 100 different colors for no extra charge over the plain
white that most people apply. (I got a fire engine red done that will just
about be a perfect match for one of the Stits polytone reds') He is a batch
shop instead of a large conveyer system production outfit (the one's that
wouldn't talk to me for less than $600 ... that's right $600 , I was really
getting worried) so he will deal with small jobs like mine. For your
information the particular line of paint that he uses (forgot the name) is
rated at 1000 hours of 70 PSI direct spray of salt water before ANY metal
will start to show through. That's about 2-3 times as long as the BEST epoxy
primers on the market. Anyway the parts look absolutly great and really
look AIRCRAFT GRADE!!! (For that matter , I'm thinking about hanging them
in my living room till I need to install them on the plane...but I don't
think the wife will let me...)
His name is Clint Hammond , Southeastern Metal Refinishing 2925 Ledo
Rd. Albany , Ga. 912-888-2842
He can handle size wise up to a Spint car chassis (which he does on a
regular basis) so our Kolb cages are easily handled. I plan on ordering my
cage plain and have Clint powdercoat it for me to match the rest of the
steel parts when the time comes.
For you guys on the "Left" coast Ups for the small parts would be about $40
or so , really not that bad.
If anyone gets him to do something for you mention my name , I told him I
was going to post his number on this list so let him know Friendly business
leads to MORE business!!!
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
P.S. To John Yates , The New Kolb Aircraft Co. If you guys haven't lined
up anyone to handle your powder coating for your new "more Southern"
location give this guy a call , he was about as nice to deal with as you
guys...and the color choices were great.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
\"Bruce Chesnut\"" <n51bc@sun-spot.com>
Dear TNK:
Got the FF add-on choke bracket yesterday... The next-day FEDEX was a nice
touch....
Thanks for the great service...
Bill Tuton
Building FF 076
Brandon, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DRMusgrove(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Finishing the quote... :-) |
In a message dated 7/18/99 2:47:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Will be keeping good thoughts for you on the morrow. Just remember,
> stick forward and houses get larger, stick back and houses get smaller.
Don't forget the last line:
"Pull the stick back farther and the houses get larger again."
:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rick106(at)juno.com |
Bill
The M/3 is a good choice it very stable and fun to fly, you have so
many things to do right now that if I were you I would focus more on the
M III and all that it takes to get her ready for flight. then I would
get my GPS if you got one now it could be some time before you have a
chance to use it in your M III just my idea I would elect to wait on the
GPS
Rick Libersat
writes:
>
>
>I'm new to the list and am looking to purchase a Mark III kit when the
>new
>prices come out of Kentucky. Any input from any Mark III Drivers
>would be
>appreciated, also looking to purchase a GPS and would like to know
>what you
>folks think might be the best for the money, I don't need anything
>fancy,
>just something that is affordable and will take care of me navigation.
> I
>look forward to hearing from you Mark III folks and will thank you in
>advance!! Bill Johnston Jr.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Is anybody home???? |
HELLO ???
I was just wondering if there were any real life forms at TNK?
I have been trying for two months to get a signed aircraft sales slip on
the proper FAA approved form.
I wrote to Kolb in PA, called both the old Kolb and the new Kolb phone
lines ( Esther answers both lines).
I sent a completed form to Kolb for a signature and included a self
addressed envelope to make it easy.
Esther assures me that all was forwarded to TNK Company.
I wrote to your web masters begging for a connection or a phone line that
would actually go through.
I even sent a direct E-mail to this address as soon as I read the posting on
my computer.
Is it only me? Have I been a bad boy? Am I too far north? Would a bribe
help (but where would I send it to?)?
PLEASE HELP ME-----I PROMISE I WILL TRY TO BE WORTHY !!!
FRANK HODSON
: OXFORD MAINE
Unregisterable/uninspectable but completed FS II
fwhodson@megalink.net http://www.megalink.net/~fwhodson
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi my boy, and me are in the market for a good mark III. Would you send me
more info and perhaps a few PICS? Would like info on the trailer too if you
don't mind.
We live in south Florida so it would be a drive to get it but it might be
worth it.
I am leaving town wed. So If you don't hear form me by then it will be at
least 15 days. I am not due back till about the 5th of Aug.
Is this an N, registered kit?
Thanks
Bill
561 394-5536
903 NE 2nd. Street
Boca Raton Fl. 33432
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating |
It's great to hear about the good ones. We have a similar operation at
Bob's Auto Body here in Cathedral City, CA. Did my Mk III tail boom for 2/3
of what I was quoted elsewhere. This guy has lots of Neat Toys of his own,
and when told what it was, and my needs for it, came in himself on a Sunday,
and did the job personally. Beautiful job. Also ran into a precision
grinding shop in Banning, CA, who spent 1 hours taking 3/10,000's off a
tight bearing race in my re-drive. They loved it, being race car owners on
the side. Charged me $ 25.00. For sure, once in a great while you run
into a good one, and they're a real pleasure. Big Lar. Do
not Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 1999 4:14 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Powder Coating
>
> To Kolb list and all...
>
> I wanted to pass along a good experiance doing business with a company.
(It
> seems when you do good people rarely mention it but when you do bad
> EVERYBODY mentions it so I thought I would be fair to this fellow.) I
> ordered Kit 1 for a Mark 3 back during Sun-n-Fun and despite all the
hoopla
> that the Kolb Company is going through right now my order was shipped on
> time with nothing missing or backordered (great service so far guys ,
> thanks!!!) But I decided at the time that I ordered my kit that I would
> just epoxy prime it myself and save a few dollars....BAD IDEA!!! When I
> priced the epoxy and a spray gun and building a spray booth and etc. I
> realized that that was just adding headaches and time that I already
didn't
> have anyway so I started trying to find someone to powdercoat my parts
> locally. Well I found a fellow in Albany, Ga. who is been in business a
> little over a year and is really working to please his customers to get a
> good client base going. He was very knowledgable about what was required
to
> handle aircraft parts as he has a contract with a company called Casello
> (sp) that is a subcontractor to Cessna and Piper for their welded parts
> (engine mounts , etc.) and this guy powdercoats them for them. Anyway he
> was willing to take my 25 pieces (That's all the steel parts in Kit 1) and
> coat them for $200!!! (If that sounds expensive you obviously haven't
gottn
> many prices for this stuff. )When I told him that I would drive them to
> Albany from Columbus,Ga on the next Saturday morning he said "Hey , I live
> in Dawson (about halfway between Columbus and Albany and saved about 45
> minutes of driving time) I'll just meet you in town and get the stuff from
> you there , to save you some time..." Any way he also was able to
> powdercoat in about 100 different colors for no extra charge over the
plain
> white that most people apply. (I got a fire engine red done that will just
> about be a perfect match for one of the Stits polytone reds') He is a
batch
> shop instead of a large conveyer system production outfit (the one's that
> wouldn't talk to me for less than $600 ... that's right $600 , I was
really
> getting worried) so he will deal with small jobs like mine. For your
> information the particular line of paint that he uses (forgot the name)
is
> rated at 1000 hours of 70 PSI direct spray of salt water before ANY metal
> will start to show through. That's about 2-3 times as long as the BEST
epoxy
> primers on the market. Anyway the parts look absolutly great and really
> look AIRCRAFT GRADE!!! (For that matter , I'm thinking about hanging them
> in my living room till I need to install them on the plane...but I don't
> think the wife will let me...)
>
> His name is Clint Hammond , Southeastern Metal Refinishing 2925 Ledo
> Rd. Albany , Ga. 912-888-2842
>
> He can handle size wise up to a Spint car chassis (which he does on a
> regular basis) so our Kolb cages are easily handled. I plan on ordering
my
> cage plain and have Clint powdercoat it for me to match the rest of the
> steel parts when the time comes.
>
> For you guys on the "Left" coast Ups for the small parts would be about
$40
> or so , really not that bad.
>
> If anyone gets him to do something for you mention my name , I told him I
> was going to post his number on this list so let him know Friendly
business
> leads to MORE business!!!
>
> Jeremy Casey
> jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
> P.S. To John Yates , The New Kolb Aircraft Co. If you guys haven't lined
> up anyone to handle your powder coating for your new "more Southern"
> location give this guy a call , he was about as nice to deal with as you
> guys...and the color choices were great.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Hale" <AccessToData(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop bolt torque |
An important thing to know about tightening bolts on a warp drive prop.
Tighten bolts in 20 in lb increments to full recommended torque. Do not
tighten all at once and make sure you tighten them equally. If you get one
that is too far behind in torque and try to bring it up to the others, POP.
It may strip all the threads right off the bolt. Speaking from experience
here.
1/4" bolts 100 -120 in lbs or 9 -10 ft lbs
5/16" bolts 175 in lbs or 14.5 ft lbs
Brian Hale
Firestar I # 439
Sacramento, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Group,
I recommend Garmin GPS units that are intended for marine use, like the 12XL
or 12. They are not expensive and can do what is needed very easily. They also
can be programmed. See my Garmin page:
http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Waypoints_and_Maps.html
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Hey Y'all, The best and cheapest tail wheel is one you get from a discarded
grocery buggy. Sometimes found behind grocery stores or the nearby woods and
ditches after a long summer weekend. Kids have a way of making good use of
them for racing across the parking lots at 3:00 in the morning when they
don't have anything else to do, for some reason the store people don't care
to retrieve them after they have been all twisted up. The wheel will give
you good ground control and it is a lot smoother than the original wheel. It
doesn't dig in quite as much. It can last as long as 700-800 hours depending
on if you fly from a grass strip or off pavement. Even if you have to buy it
a new one is only about $4-8 bucks in Northern T&E Co. I like mine. It has
700 hours on it.
Original Message-----
From: Tom Barton <barton(at)ameslab.gov>
Date: Saturday, July 17, 1999 1:14 PM
>
>Could anyone out there tell me what are the torque values to
>put a 3-blade Warp Drive prop back on a Rotax? Also need a
>tailwheel for a Kolb Mark II which was destroyed (the
>tailwheel, not the plane) in a UHaul truck last night on the
>way from New Orleans to Iowa. If I had these two things
>I could be flying my new plane on this beautiful day. Incidentally
>this is the Mark II with a 582 on Full Lotus amphibious floats
>that someone posted a copy of the advertisement about a
>week ago. Very pretty bird!
>Thanks,
>tom
>
>
>Tom Barton
>Director, Ames Laboratory
>Director, Institute of Physical Research & Technology
>Distinguished Professor of Chemistry
>Iowa State University
>Ames, Iowa 50011
>
>Phone: 515-294-2770
>Fax: 515-294-4456
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
How about a picture or explanation on how to mount it?
Geoff Thistlethwaite
almost finished firestar2
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Highsmith <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, July 19, 1999 10:25 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Tail wheel
>
> Hey Y'all, The best and cheapest tail wheel is one you get from a
discarded
> grocery buggy. Sometimes found behind grocery stores or the nearby woods
and
> ditches after a long summer weekend. Kids have a way of making good use of
> them for racing across the parking lots at 3:00 in the morning when they
> don't have anything else to do, for some reason the store people don't
care
> to retrieve them after they have been all twisted up. The wheel will give
> you good ground control and it is a lot smoother than the original wheel.
It
> doesn't dig in quite as much. It can last as long as 700-800 hours
depending
> on if you fly from a grass strip or off pavement. Even if you have to buy
it
> a new one is only about $4-8 bucks in Northern T&E Co. I like mine. It
has
> 700 hours on it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Oil injection hose replacement |
> I found I have a leak in the hose that runs from the oil res. to the oil
> injection pump on my 503. I want to replace the hose and have two
> questions.
>
> 1. What kinda hose do I replace it with? Where can I get it locally?
>
> 2. What do I have to do, if anything, after I replace the hose to insure
> oil to the fuel supply. Is there some kinda purging I have to do or
> will gravity take care of the problem?
#1 Fuel line hose from your local auto parts dealer is compatible, and if
fabric imbedded will last longer.
#2 Fill your reservoir and then disconnect the hose at the oil pump to
purge the line of air. Upon reconnecting the line the pump will take care
of the rest.
FRANK HODSON: OXFORD ME
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
Please add me to the list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Moving rudder pedals foreword |
I have finally installed my seats and it seems that my rudder pedals are
too close (even in the full foreword position). My knees are about in
line with the top of the stick. With my knees this high, it seems like
it will be uncomfortable to use much aileron at all. It seems it would
be more comfortable as well as safer for me to move the pedals foreword
some more. Has anyone done this? It seems there is room on the slider
tube, the only restriction would be in how much room there is in the
nose for feet and pedals. As always any suggestions or advice would be
welcome. Rick L tells me that a person rarely uses much aileron in a
MKIII. Have any of you ever deflected your ailerons to the stop in
flight? Can any of you deflect your ailerons to the stop on the ground
without your legs getting in the way?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
I don't understand...... We have to be added to the new Kolb list ?
If so I would like to be added.....
Rich Bragassa
Mk lll N8160Z
lrb(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
Correction,
lrb1476(at)aol.com
thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving rudder pedals foreword |
Are you using the stock sling seats, Jason ?? I found that by moving the
pedals farther forward, my left foot was held at an awkward angle by the
nose cone. Thought seriously for a bit about cutting holes, and putting
blisters on the outside to make more room. Then got to juggling seat angles
with my dune buggy seats, and was able to move them far enough back to give
the leg room I needed. At full left aileron, the stick pushes solidly
against my thigh, but this seems like it would be pretty extreme in flight.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Sent: Monday, July 19, 1999 1:45 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Moving rudder pedals foreword
>
> I have finally installed my seats and it seems that my rudder pedals are
> too close (even in the full foreword position). My knees are about in
> line with the top of the stick. With my knees this high, it seems like
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Fletcher" <bwf(at)emailmn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving rudder pedals foreword |
Just went out and checked the distance from the pedals to the front of the
seat and it is 26". Your seat may be in a different place but maybe you can
get an idea from the pictures on
www.metroflorida.com/plane/. I'm 6' 1" and have lots of room. My stick is in
the middle so I don't have any problem with the throw. I use the rudder to
pick up a wing more than the ailerons. It takes a lot of strength to use
full throw on the ailerons my are so large.
Bruce
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Sent: Monday, July 19, 1999 3:45 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Moving rudder pedals foreword
>
> I have finally installed my seats and it seems that my rudder pedals are
> too close (even in the full foreword position). My knees are about in
> line with the top of the stick. With my knees this high, it seems like
> it will be uncomfortable to use much aileron at all. It seems it would
> be more comfortable as well as safer for me to move the pedals foreword
> some more. Has anyone done this? It seems there is room on the slider
> tube, the only restriction would be in how much room there is in the
> nose for feet and pedals. As always any suggestions or advice would be
> welcome. Rick L tells me that a person rarely uses much aileron in a
> MKIII. Have any of you ever deflected your ailerons to the stop in
> flight? Can any of you deflect your ailerons to the stop on the ground
> without your legs getting in the way?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 925-606-1001) |
"Kolb-List: Re: GPS" (Jul 18, 3:04pm)
| Subject: | READ THIS - Abuse of the "do not archive" Feature... |
To All Listers:
Between the period of July 12 through July 19, 1999 there have been
roughly 1000 messages posted to the email Lists at Matronics, including
the RV-List, Kolb-List, Rocket-List, Zenith-List, and others. Of these 1000 or
so messages, 151 of them were marked with the "do not archive" tag indicating
that they shouldn't be (and weren't) appended to the respective List's archive
file. While I will be the first to agree that there is a lot of 'chatter'
on the Lists that shouldn't be archived, there are a lot of these non-archived
messages that contain valuable information and perspectives that would add
to the quality of the archive. I'm definitely not trying to single Merle
Hargis out with the example below, but it is a perfect example of a message
that should have gone into the archive.
I find the mis-use of the "do not archive" feature disturbing, and am
contemplating the disabling of it for the above mentioned reasons.
Through the financial support of the List members over the years, I have
been able to supply the List members with huge amounts of disk space and
extremely high performance computer systems making the search of the archives
incredibly fast and easy. The need to spare-the-archives is much less now
and mostly only a matter of keeping the useless stuff out.
Please use the "do not archive" feature only for obviously non-archive
type messages such as "Way to go, Bob!" or "When's OSH?".
I will be monitoring the usage patterns of the DNA feature over the next
few weeks to determine if it is being properly used.
Thank you for your support and participation,
Matt Dralle
Matronics List Admin.
>--------------
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: GPS
>
>
>I have a "Garmin GPS 45" it is made for boaters but it does a fine job for
>me.
>
>Merle Hargis
>(Twinstar) from Orlando
>do not archive
>----------
>
>>
>> Any input from any Mark III Drivers would be
>> appreciated, also looking to purchase a GPS and would like to know what you
>> folks think might be the best for the money, I don't need anything fancy,
>> just something that is affordable and will take care of me navigation.
>
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron control |
Going to test fly a new plane this weekend.
Cg is near the rear limit 36%.
If I reflex the ailerons down just a little, how does it effect the pitch -
noseup or nose down?
Similar to a firestar, or firestar II.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron control |
Wouldn't you just know it. I deleted all the old messages and now
I need to know the best way to bleed brakes. I saw several messages
about this a few days ago.
Would some kind (patient) soul mind resending their suggestions?
No need to take up space again. Maybe you could email it to me
at billbeam(at)aol.com.
Would really appreciate it.
This is for a totally awesome new bird that NK is bringing to Oshkosh.
You gotta see it. ! ! !
Thanks
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron control |
>
>
>Going to test fly a new plane this weekend.
>Cg is near the rear limit 36%.
>If I reflex the ailerons down just a little, how does it effect the pitch -
>noseup or nose down?
>Similar to a firestar, or firestar II.
Kolb ailerons drooped down a bit = acts nose heavier
Kolb ailerons raised up a bit = acts tail heavier
( At least on a MKIII )
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42Oldpoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
>
> Hi, I would like to be added.....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Leslie Johnston" <johnston(at)intrepid.net> |
Well guys and gals, I'm bout ready to place my order for a Mark III,
Airframe kit one, the price has gone up just a bit with the new Kolb, but
that's to be expected, nothin goes down in price! Have any of you out there
gone without the powder coating as an option? If nothing else, I'll just
get it done locally after gettin the kit in my hands. Any other advise you
can give before I call these guys and place my order? Something I should
know bout the company or any other considerations/options bout the Mark III.
Thanks in advance!
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Leslie Johnston" <johnston(at)intrepid.net> |
Another GPS question, if one were to purchase a non-aviation reciever, can
it be loaded with such data after the fact? I mean can you take a GPS
that's mainly used for hiking, boating, and driving and load it with
aviation data from say a web site? I have a Garmin GPS III Plus and am
wondering if this can be done. I've also sent email to Garmin on this same
subject.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> |
Bill,
Regarding the powder coating option, I would price it locally. I found
Kolb is a little pricey on this item. If possible find some one that has
service light aircraft frame before. Don't even mention airplane or you
price will increase any where from 20-100%. Consult local UL or EAA groups.
Jerryb
>
>Well guys and gals, I'm bout ready to place my order for a Mark III,
>Airframe kit one, the price has gone up just a bit with the new Kolb, but
>that's to be expected, nothin goes down in price! Have any of you out there
>gone without the powder coating as an option? If nothing else, I'll just
>get it done locally after gettin the kit in my hands. Any other advise you
>can give before I call these guys and place my order? Something I should
>know bout the company or any other considerations/options bout the Mark III.
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Bill,
I didn't go with it and because of work couldn't get to painting right away.
Well the damn thing rusted up so I had to rent a sandblaster and took two
days to get all the rust off. Then painted but after a week the rust came
back, poor paint technique I guess, so had to sand blast again, and finally
got it done.
If the company had offered the powder coat option when I bought mine I'd
have gotten it. Save your self some grief.
Have fun
Geoff Thistlethwaite
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill & Leslie Johnston <johnston(at)intrepid.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 1999 12:28 AM
>
> Well guys and gals, I'm bout ready to place my order for a Mark III,
> Airframe kit one, the price has gone up just a bit with the new Kolb, but
> that's to be expected, nothin goes down in price! Have any of you out
there
> gone without the powder coating as an option? If nothing else, I'll just
> get it done locally after gettin the kit in my hands. Any other advise
you
> can give before I call these guys and place my order? Something I should
> know bout the company or any other considerations/options bout the Mark
III.
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>
>
>Well guys and gals, I'm bout ready to place my order for a Mark III,
>Airframe kit one, the price has gone up just a bit with the new Kolb, but
>that's to be expected, nothin goes down in price! Have any of you out there
>gone without the powder coating as an option?
Did not get mine powder coated, because I wanted to weld tabs
down the left inside of the cage to mount a throttle quadrant, and
eliminate the center throttle, also other welding to add cable sockets
for the brake cable sheath ends to fit in, etc.
But if the factory had already put those good things in the right
place, powder coating would have been nice. However, the Good
Lookin' Ol' Poop and I have brushed epoxy primer on chromoly
before, and we did it again with the Kolb. Not difficult, just a little messy.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>
>
>Another GPS question, if one were to purchase a non-aviation reciever, can
>it be loaded with such data after the fact? I mean can you take a GPS
>that's mainly used for hiking, boating, and driving and load it with
>aviation data from say a web site? I have a Garmin GPS III Plus and am
>wondering if this can be done. I've also sent email to Garmin on this same
>subject.
>
>Bill
Check out the GPS article at AvWeb for this week.
http://www.avweb.com
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Thacker <gthacker(at)mciunix.mciu.k12.pa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
I understand I have to be added to the New Kolb list. If this is so
please add me to the list.
Thanks
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
gthacker(at)mciu.org
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
Hey, add me too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
In a message dated 7/20/99 9:54:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Cavuontop(at)aol.com writes:
<< Hey, add me too. >>
Howard Shackleford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AUDREY LEWIS <audreylewis(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | Fire Fly Enclosure |
I have a Fire Fly that I would like to fully enclose for winter flying.
Any pictures, plans and past experiences would be appreciated.
Audrey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
I have found the amount of information about installing the full
enclosure option on a MKIII virtually non existent. Does anyone out
there have good close up pictures of a full enclosure installed?
Including what all the Velcro on the back wrap around attaches to, the
door latch installation, the rear bow installation. I have looked at
all the web pages I can find and it seems no one has the rear enclosure
installed in the pictures.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: non-aviation GPS |
>
>Another GPS question, if one were to purchase a non-aviation reciever, can
>it be loaded with such data after the fact? I mean can you take a GPS
>that's mainly used for hiking, boating, and driving and load it with
Bill,
Yes, this is easily do-able. I have a Garmin 38. I have usually
picked Lat/Long of waypoints off the sectional when planning a flight.
This has the benefit of getting familiarized with the sectional and
route before flight, instead of just depending on only a GPS. It has
the disadvantage of being able to key in an error for a waypoint location.
I ran down fuel and time to precious levels once because I was looking for
an airport that was exactly 1 minute of longitude west of the point I had
mistakenly keyed it into my gps. As I wandered around the sky searching
for what was suppose to be an obvious runway in clear weather, I wondered
about the adage to trust thine instruments (GPS) or thine instinct.
It bugged me alot! Since both options were starting to stink, I took
option 3, which was to land on a dirt road, settle down, and study the
darn map ...er, sectional. More to the point, IMO a non-av GPS can be
fine, but lusting for an av model is understandable. Just don't give
up on dead reckoning skills either way.
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Full enclosure |
>
>I have found the amount of information about installing the full
>enclosure option on a MKIII virtually non existent. Does anyone out
>there have good close up pictures of a full enclosure installed?
>Including what all the Velcro on the back wrap around attaches to, the
>door latch installation, the rear bow installation. I have looked at
>all the web pages I can find and it seems no one has the rear enclosure
>installed in the pictures.
>
I have some old factory data sheets, and if Mustek ever gets around
to sending me a replacement AC adapter for my scanner, I will scan
them and send you something off list.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <ibimiami(at)msn.com> |
Jason,
I bought Big Bertha which is fully enclosed. If I can answer any specific
questions for you, let me know.
I haven't taken any up-close pictures, but if you would like me to I'll be
happy to.
Peter Volum
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jason Omelchuck
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 1999 11:01 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Full enclosure
I have found the amount of information about installing the full
enclosure option on a MKIII virtually non existent. Does anyone out
there have good close up pictures of a full enclosure installed?
Including what all the Velcro on the back wrap around attaches to, the
door latch installation, the rear bow installation. I have looked at
all the web pages I can find and it seems no one has the rear enclosure
installed in the pictures.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site |
Hi Folks,
I must have missed something. Is there a new list? If so, please sign me up
also.
Bill Griffin
uldad(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | STOP!!!! There is no NEW list!!!! |
Fellow Kolbers please listen for one minute...
I want to repost the message from the WEBMASTER for The New Kolb web site
posted on 7/13 when he flatly said that there was no new list!!! He said
the following >>>>
Hi Folks,
Re: Kolb-List: The New Kolb Aircraft Web Site
I am afraid a mis-understanding is happening. There is not a
list to sign up for, nothing to buy, no need to act before midnight
tonight! The new Kolb Aircraft website announcements would come here.
You are already signed up.
Thanks to everyone for their responses and input!
Norm
<<<<
Please note where he said , "The new Kolb Aircraft website announcements
would come here. YOU ARE ALREADY SIGNED UP. (i.e. to this Kolb list
maintained by Matt Dralle of Matronics.)
I just wanted to stick my neck out at the risk of sounding bold and brash to
save my fellow Kolb brethren a little worry and frustration over this "NEW"
list. Matt Dralle does an outstanding job and the New Kolb Co. has there
hands full with getting there roots resettled into some firm soil in
Kentucky...
than to be dealing with an email list full of confused people...
Sorry to sound Holier than thou , just trying to help...
Jeremy "Don't blast me , cause I mean well " Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AWIA" <awia(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/19/99 |
Need Input on 447 Vs 503 for the a single seat Firestar.
Extra ribs have been installed. Me elevation is 5000'
The 447 appears to be adequate for the single place Firestar but I like the
dual ignition of the 503 and some people seem to think the 503 is a better
and smoother running engine.
The extra power of the 503 would be nice for short take offs but can I
throttle the 503 back to get 447 type fuel burn?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/19/99 |
I opted for the 447 although I would like to have the dual ignition on the
503. I operateout of an airport at 42ft. above sea level, so I can't comment
on the 5,000 ft. altitude you will be operating at. The 447 burns just
over 2GPH at approx. 4,700RPM.Ever since I installed the plunger type primer,
it always starts on the first pull. Take off distance at this alt. is very
short and climb is exceptional. I can't imagine what the 503 would add. It
would be a real ride! If you try to get 447 like fuel burn out of a 503, you
may have to run the enginr too slowly, really letting carbon build up. I
talked to an individual who built a 447 powered FirestarII who told me he
took himself (190lbs) and his brother (230lbs) up and performance was very
good. Good luck which-ever engine you choose.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Have any of you out there
>gone without the powder coating as an option? If nothing else, I'll just
>get it done locally after gettin the kit in my hands.
Powder coating is a new technology. There are 40 yr old aircraft out
there without powder coating and are still fine. I used tremclad rust paint
on mine and it seems to be working out. In case I ever bang up the frame I
can just repaint after welding.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 <sbaew(at)dames.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab now or later? |
My Mark III with a 912 is finally about set for a test flight by an
experienced pilot. If I understand right from previous List postings, my
test pilot should expect some left roll and yaw, due to prop rotation and
left-seat-only flying. How strong is this tendency? i.e., should I be
installing a trim tab on my rudder (and ailerons?) right now, before it
even gets in the air, or would it be best to wait and see how it handles
and see if its really necessary?
Thanks for any and all opinions....
Erich Weaver
P.S. Could this be? Thought I saw a List posting from a FEMALE pilot
today! (Audrey? cant remember last name) Thats great! Should help to
keep the testosterone level down on the List!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab now or later? |
The best time to plan on trim tabs is before you cover it.
Now you need to be real careful where and how you drill holes
in your fabric covered tubing.
Go ahead and fly it first without them. It will be manageable, but
that way, you'll appreciate them more...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>My Mark III with a 912 is finally about set for a test flight by an
>experienced pilot. If I understand right from previous List postings, my
>test pilot should expect some left roll and yaw, due to prop rotation and
>left-seat-only flying. How strong is this tendency? i.e., should I be
>installing a trim tab on my rudder (and ailerons?) right now, before it
>even gets in the air, or would it be best to wait and see how it handles
>and see if its really necessary?
>
>Thanks for any and all opinions....
>
>Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Confusion? Kolb List? No Way! |
Nothing to sign up for? Shucks, and here I am retired
with all this spare time. My wife would REALLY like
me to sign up for SOMETHING, even if it's another list.
But here is something worth doing: On Saturday, Sep 4th,
there will be a fly-in at Duffield, Va as part of Duffield Days.
Duffield is a wide spot in the road about 30 miles north of Kingsport,
Tennessee, and every Labor Day Saturday they have this huge
festival. Parade, floats, everybody within 30 miles comes down
out of the hills for the tractor pulls, antique hit-n-miss engines,
lumberjack contests, and everything else associated with
small town fun.
And since the mayor is the cousin of one of the guys I flew to
Oshkosh with, there is a 1000' grass strip mowed out across
the road, and we usually get 25-30 u/l's show up.
During the parade, we make a daisy chain, and circle the parade route,
the folks really appreciate it. It's about an hour and 20 minutes SE
of the New Kolb factory.
Interested?, give me a query off list.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/19/99 |
The fuel burn for the 503 and the 447 is about the same at the same cruise
speed never mind the RPM. I have flown many hours with a 503 in a
Challenger, a 447 in a Firestar and a 582 in another kolb -like airplane and
they all burn about the same fuel so long as you are running the same cruise
with the proper temps. The 377 was the only one that burned a little less.
By the way, I have a 447 for sale if anyone is interested. It has 190 hours
on it and I went completely through it and it will probably make 300 more
hours without any problems before its' next inspection. It has a B-box
2.58-1. I have shipping crate ready for delivery.
$1250 or best offer.
Anyone interested in a beach run to Panacea on Saturday, 7/24? Let me know
for the details. MH
-----Original Message-----
From: AWIA <awia(at)vcn.com>
Date: Tuesday, July 20, 1999 3:05 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/19/99
>
>Need Input on 447 Vs 503 for the a single seat Firestar.
>
>Extra ribs have been installed. Me elevation is 5000'
>
>The 447 appears to be adequate for the single place Firestar but I like the
>dual ignition of the 503 and some people seem to think the 503 is a better
>and smoother running engine.
>
>The extra power of the 503 would be nice for short take offs but can I
>throttle the 503 back to get 447 type fuel burn?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: non-aviation GPS |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Hi guys,
Let's not forget those aviation GPS's don't have all those local private
grass strips that you end up flying to installed in them. Those
coordinates will have to be manually entered the same way they would be
entered into the cheap ones. The aviation database would only serve those
pilots interested in serious cross country trips. I have a 94 Magellan
boaters GPS (Meridian) and it serves me well. I have entered all my local
waypoints into it and that's really all I need. My Oshkosh trip waypoints
are in there now with the checkpoint coordinates taken right off the
sectional. They can be cross checked by having the GPS figure the
distances between the waypoints and then comparing those distances using
the map scale.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
>
>>
>>Another GPS question, if one were to purchase a non-aviation
>reciever, can
>>it be loaded with such data after the fact? I mean can you take a
>GPS
>>that's mainly used for hiking, boating, and driving and load it with
>Bill,
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi All
The rebuild is complete and I got my first flight in tonight. The plane
flies better than before. Don't have to use right rudder to keep her straight
anymore. I Thought it would take two weeks to rebuild, but it took six. Hard
to believe it takes six week to get a boom tube from Kentucky. Hope to see
you all at Oshkosh.
Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Adam Violett" <aviolett(at)worldinter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: non-aviation GPS |
> Since both options were starting to stink, I took
> option 3, which was to land on a dirt road, settle down, and study the
> darn map ...er, sectional. More to the point, IMO a non-av GPS can be
> fine, but lusting for an av model is understandable. Just don't give
> up on dead reckoning skills either way.
> -Ben
>
Just wanted to add my two cents on dead reckoning. I have a cheaper model of
Garmin GPS without database and have found it to be a wondrous and magic
little box that takes me where I want to go effortlessly. However, ... there
have been more than one occasion when the darn thing just wouldn't work.?
This past Saturday was such an occasion. I was going to a fly-in about fifty
miles from home and was flying under heavy Stratus. Bad idea? Maybe. Anyway
the trip started fine but I shortly lost enough satellites that the little
magic box said I quit. Any way long story short, the day was a success and a
blast (using the map) even though my the GPS gave up.
The day did finally end on a sour note. After more than forty hours in my
beautiful original Firestar, I bent the landing gear. Boooo. Let a cross
wind catch the tail during the time of transition from good flying control
to good ground control. My landing strip at home is too short and narrow for
this kind of mistake. Rolled'em over 180 degrees. Looks good, works good,
all's well that ends well.
Adam
Original Firestar
Kansas City Area
http://www.worldinter.net/~aviolett/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TNK list confusion mania worsens... |
In a message dated 7/20/99 3:25:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ibimiami(at)msn.com
writes:
<< Now... TNK, please DO correct me if I am wrong or this is going to get out
of hand.
Peter Volum
P.S. Please add me to the new list.
>>
PETER!!......you really know how to blow away your good intentions with a
natural sense of humor that yields to an imp
Did you have to add that PS?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/19/99 |
>
>Need Input on 447 Vs 503 for the a single seat Firestar.
>
>Extra ribs have been installed. Me elevation is 5000'
>
>The 447 appears to be adequate for the single place Firestar but I like the
>dual ignition of the 503 and some people seem to think the 503 is a better
>and smoother running engine.
>
>The extra power of the 503 would be nice for short take offs but can I
>throttle the 503 back to get 447 type fuel burn?
Don't know about the fuel burn yet, but just broke in a 503, dual carb,
E-Gear box (which I suggest you get if you want a starter) Monday. It's a
kickass machine compared to my old 447. Got a three blade 66 inch warp
drive prop turned to 15 degrees pitch and the thing will still turn 6200
RPM tied to the ground. When it is run up to full power, and you walk
behind it, it will almost knock you down. But the E-type gear box is
turning slower than what you probably have own your 447 - smoother & quiter
too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
Gonna be using my Firestar (503) in proximity of neighbors. Has anyone
used the Rotax intake silencer and the muffler extensions? Do they
help with the noise? Any help appreciated.
Bill
FS438 (new owner)
Wilmore, Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/20/99 |
Got an original firestar with 447. Had 377 when I installed an aftermuffler.
It really made it quieter it seems. Something about changing the beat of
the motor from the same beat of the prop. Nothing else changed. Put it on
the new 447 and seemed to be the same thing. Always had trouble idling and
starting this new 447 so I put a needle from a 532 in the carb and now it is
fine. It still does not idle worth a poop at 2000. Need to keep it at 2200
or so (I have checked rippum guage with prop tack). I have been told the
idle problem is too much prop pitch. Turned some down and it idles better.
Listen to the pros. Anyway, Mr. Pro says the 447 doesnt like its exhaust
restricted and this is the problem. 377 and 447 have dif. pistons and act
differently. My fuel consumption is just over 3gph but the engine runs great
and there is not a carbon problem. I tac 6250 on takeoff climb and it is
definately quieter. I added a sponge/plastic type of liner inside the fabric
fus. to quiet the drum and have had nothing but good comments since. Ask
people at Texoma how it sounds. All this was to anwer the question about
aftermufflers. Be prepared to change needles or settings if necessary. I
tried to find out earlier from Kolb list but got nothing so I left it on.
Hope it helps. If you want to try it, just clamp it on for awhile and test
it. I also exhaust up so there is no rebound noise from trees, etc.
G'day. Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Just added an after muffler to my 532, and the wife says
it makes a big difference on the ground, MUCH quieter.
No change to the power or jetting. Temps the same,
all RPM's the same.
Had a single carb 503 years ago, and had an intake silencer on it.
Putting the silencer on or off was worth a couple degrees worth
of Warp Drive pitch change, so it costs you some horsepower.
Also it requires a jetting change. If you can stand to lose a
little horsepower, it is quieter, and uses less fuel.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>
>Gonna be using my Firestar (503) in proximity of neighbors. Has anyone
>used the Rotax intake silencer and the muffler extensions? Do they
>help with the noise? Any help appreciated.
>
>Bill
>FS438 (new owner)
>Wilmore, Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I had a thought on the GPS subject this morning, while thrashing around
trying to pretend the alarm hadn't gone off. An article I read some time
ago, in one of the flying rags, mentioned that some of the less expensive
GPS's have a slow update time. Like, some will update every second or 2,
while some others only update - - - maybe every 15 or 20 seconds. Not real
sure, but the result is a unit that's always behind you. Fine for a hiker
on the ground, maybe less fine for a plane. Food for thought.
Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/20/99 |
Couple thoughts: The ID of the aftermuffler is the same or larger
than the ID of the normal exhaust outlet, and you should not
have a restriction problem. If it doesn't choke back my 532,
it should'nt restrict a 447.
About your idle: Try going one size smaller on the idle jet.
Rotax engines sometimes seem to be fat on those.
Fuel consumption seems to be a function of RPM.
Testing out a revised stabilizer incidence angle setting,
and a revised thrust line over the weekend, I was
puttering around at 47-4800 rpm for about an hour,
then a quick sprint home at 5600 rpm. The 532 burned
under 3 gph at that RPM. Climbout RPM is 6300.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Got an original firestar with 447. Had 377 when I installed an aftermuffler.
> It really made it quieter it seems. Something about changing the beat of
>the motor from the same beat of the prop. Nothing else changed. Put it on
>the new 447 and seemed to be the same thing. Always had trouble idling and
>starting this new 447 so I put a needle from a 532 in the carb and now it is
>fine. It still does not idle worth a poop at 2000. Need to keep it at 2200
>or so (I have checked rippum guage with prop tack). I have been told the
>idle problem is too much prop pitch. Turned some down and it idles better.
>Listen to the pros. Anyway, Mr. Pro says the 447 doesnt like its exhaust
>restricted and this is the problem. 377 and 447 have dif. pistons and act
>differently. My fuel consumption is just over 3gph but the engine runs great
>and there is not a carbon problem. I tac 6250 on takeoff climb and it is
>definately quieter. I added a sponge/plastic type of liner inside the fabric
>fus. to quiet the drum and have had nothing but good comments since. Ask
>people at Texoma how it sounds. All this was to anwer the question about
>aftermufflers. Be prepared to change needles or settings if necessary. I
>tried to find out earlier from Kolb list but got nothing so I left it on.
>Hope it helps. If you want to try it, just clamp it on for awhile and test
>it. I also exhaust up so there is no rebound noise from trees, etc.
>G'day. Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Very true. When flying to some point, it works great.
During a 360 turn, the thing gets dizzy.
You need to be in a straight line for a bit for it to
work right. When you are flying along, and you want to
punch in a landmark of some place you are flying over,
it will usually miss by a couple hundred feet, because
of the slow update time. It's a Magellan 2000.
But I got what I paid for, so that's OK.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>I had a thought on the GPS subject this morning, while thrashing around
>trying to pretend the alarm hadn't gone off. An article I read some time
>ago, in one of the flying rags, mentioned that some of the less expensive
>GPS's have a slow update time. Like, some will update every second or 2,
>while some others only update - - - maybe every 15 or 20 seconds. Not real
>sure, but the result is a unit that's always behind you. Fine for a hiker
>on the ground, maybe less fine for a plane. Food for thought.
>Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/20/99 |
In a message dated 7/21/99 3:30:55 AM, rpike(at)preferred.com writes:
<< I was
puttering around at 47-4800 rpm for about an hour,
then a quick sprint home at 5600 rpm. The 532 burned
under 3 gph at that RPM. Climbout RPM is 6300. >>
HI Richard:
What kind of climb rates are you getting (solo and 2 up) with your 532? I am
presently pitching my new Powerfin. Five changes yesterday. Last test hop,
when I was SURE it was going to be right, the climb revs were around 6400 but
the EGTs went to 1200. When I leveled off and pulled the power back they went
back to normal. Since my engine has always run on the cool side I was not
comfortable with max temps. Next calm day will add a teeny tiny bit more
pitch and try again.
Bill George
Mk-3 582 Powerfin "F"
________________________________________________________________________________
Greetings
I'm getting ready to paint the fuselage and the small parts associated with
it. I have read of parts that are hard to fit when they are painted. Any
recomendation of which areas to mask off.
Regards
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
Building a FireStar II
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Bill,
I went for powder coating on the cage. After the aggravation I have
experienced with prepping, priming and painting the small steel parts I
consider it money very well spent.
If I had it to do over, all the steel parts would be powder coated!
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN 312
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/20/99 |
Solo climb is right at 1000 FPM at 6300 RPM. Dual is
6-700 FPM, 6300 RPM.
If you adjust your prop pitch for more rpm, and the EGT's
go up too much, the engine needs more load.
No matter what Roger Zerkle may claim in Ultralight Flying magazine,
EGT's go up when the engine has insufficient load, or lean mixture.
CHT's go up with a heavy load.
CHT's go down with light load.
EGT's go down with proper load and richer mixture.
If your EGT's went up too much and you did not change jetting,
then the engine needs more load.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>In a message dated 7/21/99 3:30:55 AM, rpike(at)preferred.com writes:
I was puttering around at 47-4800 rpm for about an hour,
>then a quick sprint home at 5600 rpm. The 532 burned
>under 3 gph at that RPM. Climbout RPM is 6300. >>
>
>HI Richard:
>
>What kind of climb rates are you getting (solo and 2 up) with your 532? I am
>presently pitching my new Powerfin. Five changes yesterday. Last test hop,
>when I was SURE it was going to be right, the climb revs were around 6400 but
>the EGTs went to 1200. When I leveled off and pulled the power back they went
>back to normal. Since my engine has always run on the cool side I was not
>comfortable with max temps. Next calm day will add a teeny tiny bit more
>pitch and try again.
>
>Bill George
>Mk-3 582 Powerfin "F"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Hey guys,
One little thing that no one lately has mentioned is the fact that the Tachs
we use are notoriously off. I used a Westburg for a while and had no
problems with it so I set everything to it. I had come by a new Rotax Tach
and decided to use it instead just so I would have a longer sweep and more
accurate reading. That was a mistake from the beginning. The ambient air
temperature had a profound effect on the accuracy. At lest that is what
seemed to make the change in climb out RPM. In the early mornings when the
air temp was cool the Tach would read almost 7000 rpm on climbout although
all the engine temps were right and the airplane climbed like it had always
done. After the day temp and cockpit temp got up the tach would read 5800 or
less with the same performance. At idle and up to around 4500 rpm the tach
would check out fairly close to the correct rpm but above that it would do
some funny readings, so I never knew whether it was right or not. Before I
found this out it had given me more than one scare on take off from real
short fields although the engine would just perform as always. After some
prop pitch changes and a lot of head scratching I finally put the Westburg
back in. I haven't had any more problems since. I'm not promoting Westburg,
I just know now that the little tachs we use can't always be trusted, nor
can the engine temp gauges. I've since found out that they are also effected
a lot by ambient air temp. The hotter the cockpit temp is the lower the
gauges will read. The lower the temp the hotter they will read. Please don't
take my word for it, do the research and find out for yourself. Who knows we
may all learn something we didn't know before. MH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating |
>If I had it to do over, all the steel parts would be powder coated!
>L. Ray Baker
I used to feel this way too. But then it seemed there were some
rumors that powder coating added more weight than epoxy priming.
Some additional weight might be acceptable, but to me, not a lot.
Does anybody have good info on the weight gain difference?
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G. Johannsson" <johann.g(at)centrum.is> |
| Subject: | Idle jet smaller???? |
Hi Richard,
I saw your reply to TCowan, that you could solve a rambling rpm with a smaller
idle jet.
I am using the recommended idle jet #45 for Rotax 503 DCDI engine.
My engine has never been steady on the idle rpm. It is fluctuating down to 1500
rpm and up to 2200 rpm. I have replaced the idle jet O rings and checked for air
leaks but can not seem to find anything wrong.
I should try # 40 size idle jet to solve my problem???
If this is a common problem for all Rotax engines, why has Rotax not changed their
recommendations for the Bing Carburetors?
Just wandering :-)
Johann G.
Iceland.
Firestar II (40 hrs. and loving it.)
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> Couple thoughts: The ID of the aftermuffler is the same or larger
> than the ID of the normal exhaust outlet, and you should not
> have a restriction problem. If it doesn't choke back my 532,
> it should'nt restrict a 447.
> About your idle: Try going one size smaller on the idle jet.
> Rotax engines sometimes seem to be fat on those.
> Fuel consumption seems to be a function of RPM.
> Testing out a revised stabilizer incidence angle setting,
> and a revised thrust line over the weekend, I was
> puttering around at 47-4800 rpm for about an hour,
> then a quick sprint home at 5600 rpm. The 532 burned
> under 3 gph at that RPM. Climbout RPM is 6300.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
> >
> >Got an original firestar with 447. Had 377 when I installed an aftermuffler.
> > It really made it quieter it seems. Something about changing the beat of
> >the motor from the same beat of the prop. Nothing else changed. Put it on
> >the new 447 and seemed to be the same thing. Always had trouble idling and
> >starting this new 447 so I put a needle from a 532 in the carb and now it is
> >fine. It still does not idle worth a poop at 2000. Need to keep it at 2200
> >or so (I have checked rippum guage with prop tack). I have been told the
> >idle problem is too much prop pitch. Turned some down and it idles better.
> >Listen to the pros. Anyway, Mr. Pro says the 447 doesnt like its exhaust
> >restricted and this is the problem. 377 and 447 have dif. pistons and act
> >differently. My fuel consumption is just over 3gph but the engine runs great
> >and there is not a carbon problem. I tac 6250 on takeoff climb and it is
> >definately quieter. I added a sponge/plastic type of liner inside the fabric
> >fus. to quiet the drum and have had nothing but good comments since. Ask
> >people at Texoma how it sounds. All this was to anwer the question about
> >aftermufflers. Be prepared to change needles or settings if necessary. I
> >tried to find out earlier from Kolb list but got nothing so I left it on.
> >Hope it helps. If you want to try it, just clamp it on for awhile and test
> >it. I also exhaust up so there is no rebound noise from trees, etc.
> >G'day. Ted
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G. Johannsson" <johann.g(at)centrum.is> |
| Subject: | Clevis Pins for Mark III and Firestar II |
Dear List members.
I need some help on the Clevis Pins used on the Mark III and the
Firestar II.
I can not go and measure the pins on my plane, (am at work) but will
need to order some spare pins.
Does anyone have the correct size for the Clevis Pins needed for the
Kolb planes?
Someone on the list mentioned about a spacer for the lower wing strut.
The pins have enlarged the holes on the cage, and I would like to solve
the problem.
I can not find the solution on the archive list.
Hope you can help,
Best regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Clevis Pins for Mark III and Firestar II |
Johann G. Johannsson wrote:
> Dear List members.
>
> I need some help on the Clevis Pins used on the Mark III and the
> Firestar II.
> -----------------------------------
> -----------------------------------
> The pins have enlarged the holes on the cage, and I would like to
> solve
> the problem.
> Hope you can help,
>
> Best regards,
> Johann G.
> Iceland.
Hi there Johann;
I hope what I read here is unique to your plane only.. I would hate to
think that just flying a MKIII will cause the pins to enlarge the holes
in the cage. Tell me, are the enlarged holes in the upper part of the
cage, or where the lift strut mounts? One location is a compression
mount where the other is a stress mount. (Unless you fly upside down,
then reverse the order)
Has there been several rough landings?
Anyway!!!
The existing diameter of the pins is 1/4", but you had better measure
the "new" diameter of your holes, then order some pins for that dia.
NOTICE FOR EVERYONE ON THE LIST!!!
I have been gone for awhile, and the amount of messages in my bin were
tremendous, so rather than read them all, I deleted them... If there
were any important messages to me, please resend them, will ya???
Thanks
Regards
Doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab now or later? |
Erich Weaver wrote - - -
should I be installing a trim tab on my rudder (and ailerons?) right now,
before it
even gets in the air, or would it be best to wait and see how it handles and
see if its really necessary?
Erich;
I guess it's an almost certainty that a tab will be required on an aileron
and on the rudder. I put mine on after flying a bit to sorta determine how
much tab is needed.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating |
I agree 100%, however it makes a difference who does the powder coating. I
had all the steel parts done at the factory, and had the tail boom done
locally. The coating on the fuselage, etc. seems to be very thick in spots,
almost ripple-ey, and the adjustable pedals are coated to the point where
they were solidly non-adjustable. After a lot of work, bad language, and
scuffed knuckles, they are now adjustable with a mallet - and not coated
under the portion where the sliders were when coating was done. In spite of
this thickness, there are a couple of rust spots showing on coated welds,
which to my thinking would indicate inconsistency. Also coating over quite
a few spots of welding spatter. The local guy used a minimum of coating to
get complete coverage, and even the texture is different. Smoother. And a
lot cheaper. I told Bob's Auto Body what I was doing and what it was for,
and he really went after it. I think this is an area that TNK
really needs to look at. In some areas that I cleaned off for my doors,
the coating was almost 1/16" inch thick.
I had my gull wing door frames welded up last weekend, and will sand
blast and spray them with epoxy primer this weekend. I'll have 1st hand
exp. with both systems then, but I don't think I could say I'm looking
forward to the experience. I got the white epoxy primer from Jim and
Dondi - can anyone tell me if this is a stand alone coating, or do I need to
final paint it too ?? Regular primer is porous, and needs to be painted,
but I'm not familiar with this stuff.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 1999 9:34 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Powder Coating
>
> Bill,
>
> I went for powder coating on the cage. After the aggravation I have
> experienced with prepping, priming and painting the small steel parts I
> consider it money very well spent.
>
> If I had it to do over, all the steel parts would be powder coated!
>
> L. Ray Baker
> Lake Butler, Fl
> Building Mark III, SN 312
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Is anybody home???? |
Whazzat ?? What FAA approved form ?? Anyone else heard of this ?? All
I've got is the original receipt they sent when they received my check.
Isn't that enough ?? Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank & Winnie Hodson <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 1999 9:39 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Is anybody home????
>
> HELLO ???
>
> I was just wondering if there were any real life forms at TNK?
>
> I have been trying for two months to get a signed aircraft sales slip on
> the proper FAA approved form.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 07/20/99 High EGTs |
In a message dated 7/21/99 12:39:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
WGeorge737(at)aol.com writes:
<< Last test hop,
when I was SURE it was going to be right, the climb revs were around 6400
but
the EGTs went to 1200. When I leveled off and pulled the power back they
went
back to normal. Since my engine has always run on the cool side I was not >>
Bill, I'm no expert, but my 503 had exactly the same symptoms. I believe
that once you get the proper RPMs on climbout and your EGTs are still too
high then lower the clip on the slide needle [richen] & EGTs will probably be
perfect. Don't forget to put the clip UNDER the plastic piece.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
The cheap GPS that I talked about last night (Magellan Meridian) has an
update time of 1 second, speed limit of 951mph, and 12 channels. Pretty
good for a boating GPS and more than sufficient for my purposes. Be
careful, some of the earlier Garmin's had slow update rates.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, ready for Oshkosh
writes:
>
>
>I had a thought on the GPS subject this morning, while thrashing
>around
>trying to pretend the alarm hadn't gone off. An article I read some
>time
>ago, in one of the flying rags, mentioned that some of the less
>expensive
>GPS's have a slow update time. Like, some will update every second or
>2,
>while some others only update - - - maybe every 15 or 20 seconds. Not
>real
>sure, but the result is a unit that's always behind you. Fine for a
>hiker
>on the ground, maybe less fine for a plane. Food for thought.
>Big Lar.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating |
I got the white epoxy primer from Jim and
>Dondi - can anyone tell me if this is a stand alone coating, or do I need to
>final paint it too ?? Regular primer is porous, and needs to be painted,
>but I'm not familiar with this stuff.
> Big Lar.
Have not sprayed epoxy primer, only brushed it, and it is not porous.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
178 Seconds to Live
How long can a pilot who has little or no instrument training expect to
live after he flies into bad weather and loses visual contact?
Researchers at the University of Illinois did some tests and came up
with some very interesting data. Twenty student "guinea pigs" flew into
simulated instrument weather, and all went into graveyard spirals or
roller coasters [attribute to the U of I flight training program??]. The
outcome differed in only one respect - the time required till control was
lost. The interval ranged from 480 seconds to 20 seconds. The average
time was 178 seconds -- two seconds short of three minutes.
Here's the fatal scenario. . . . . . .
The sky is overcast and the visibility is poor. That reported five mile
visibility looks more like two, and you can't judge the height of the
overcast. Your altimeter tells you that you are at 1500 feet but your map
tells
you that there's local terrain as high as 1200 feet. There might be a
tower nearby because you're not sure how far off course you are. But
you've flown into worse weather than this, so press on.
You find yourself unconsciously easing back just a bit on the
controls to clear those towers. With no warning, you're in the soup.
You peer so hard into the milky white mist that your eyes hurt. You fight
the feeling in your stomach. You try to swallow, only to find your mouth
dry. Now you realize you should have waited for better weather. The
appointment was important, but not all that important.
Somewhere a voice is saying, "You've had it -- it's all over!"
You now have 178 seconds to live.
Your aircraft feels on even keel but your compass turns slowly. You
push a little rudder and add a little pressure on the controls to stop
the turn but this feels unnatural and you return the controls to their
original position. This feels better but now your compass is turning a
little faster and your airspeed is increasing slightly.
You scan your instruments for help but what you see looks somewhat
unfamiliar. You're sure that this is just a bad spot. You'll break out in
a few minutes.
(But you don't have a few minutes left. . .)
You now have 100 seconds to live.
You glance at your altimeter and you are shocked to see it unwinding.
You're already down to 1200 feet. Instinctively, you pull back on the
controls but the altimeter still unwinds. The engine is into the red and
the airspeed, nearly so. You have 45 seconds to live.
Now you're sweating and shaking. There must be something wrong with the
controls; pulling back only moves the airspeed indicator further into
the red. You can hear the wind tearing at the aircraft. You are about to
meet your Maker; you have 10 seconds to live. Suddenly you see the
ground. The trees rush up at you. You can see the horizon if you turn
your head far enough but it's at a weird angle --
you're almost inverted. You open your mouth to scream but. . . . . ..
you just ran our of seconds.
Think about it before you press on into marginal weather
Lucian Bartosik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Has anyone put the Jabiru 80hp on a Kolb Mark111? Results?
Has anyone put an inflight adjustable propeller on a Mark 111? Results?
Dallas Shepherd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Hi,
I'm using a silencer on my 447, it does cost a bit of power( 2 hp
supposedly) but it takes away that nasty high pitched whine that seems to
pierce the brain.
Larry
----------
> From: BILLBEAM(at)aol.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: 503 noise
> Date: Tuesday, July 20, 1999 9:43 PM
>
>
>
> Gonna be using my Firestar (503) in proximity of neighbors. Has anyone
> used the Rotax intake silencer and the muffler extensions? Do they
> help with the noise? Any help appreciated.
>
> Bill
> FS438 (new owner)
> Wilmore, Ky.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating |
I powder coated my fuse, added a starter with a gel battery, and a full
encloseur, total added weight 100 lbs. The powder coating I believe added
20 lbs. It looks nice, but I wouldn't do it again.
Larry
----------
> From: Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Powder Coating
> Date: Wednesday, July 21, 1999 1:39 PM
>
>
>
> >If I had it to do over, all the steel parts would be powder coated!
> >L. Ray Baker
>
> I used to feel this way too. But then it seemed there were some
> rumors that powder coating added more weight than epoxy priming.
> Some additional weight might be acceptable, but to me, not a lot.
> Does anybody have good info on the weight gain difference?
> -Ben Ransom
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Clevis Pins for Mark III and Firestar II |
>
> I need some help on the Clevis Pins used on the Mark III and the
> Firestar II.
> I can not go and measure the pins on my plane, (am at work) but will
> need to order some spare pins.
> Does anyone have the correct size for the Clevis Pins needed for the
> Kolb planes?
>
I can only answer for the FSII:
Wing struts Top: An 395-17
Bottom: AN 395-29
Front wing attachment: An 395-41
Aileron Horn: An 394-29
Good Luck: FRANK HODSON, OXFORD ME
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Is anybody home???? |
> Whazzat ?? What FAA approved form ?? Anyone else heard of this ?? All
> I've got is the original receipt they sent when they received my check.
> Isn't that enough ?? Big Lar.
I sent copies of my sales slips and invoices with my application for
registration to the FAA.
I did receive my N number assignment (N6399J) but was notified that the
aircraft could not be registered until I returned a completed AC FORM
#8050-2 which included the sellers name and authorized signature. The FAA
was actually rather expeditious in returning this request and even included
the required paperwork.....Now as for some assistance from KOLB/TNK, I have
made repeated calls and sent a written request with the form completed sans
signature with zero response over the last 8 weeks. Bitter? Not yet.
Frustrating? You bet!
FRANK HODSON: OXFORD ME
P.S. I again called TNK today at (606) 862-9692 and actually heard a voice,
however it was a recording promising to return my call.....I'm still
hopeful!
Is this the correct number, do the read the e-mail we send to their listed
address, or does somebody have the inside scoop on how to get to actually
reach them? I have some technical questions that I would like to discuss.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Lighting coil output: 503 Rotax |
Dear KOLBERS:
I have had some difficulty getting the proper output (12V DC) to run my EIS.
I tried all possible combinations from the rectifier thinking I had to
identify the "soft" lead to obtain the desired output. However the result
were similar in all modes. I then measured the actual output of the 503's
lighting coils. The yellow/black wire shows 12 volts but the solid yellow
wire shows 4 volts,
Is this normal? If not is their a fix? Any body with a helpful hint?
I was able, for the time being, to run the EIS for break-in data with the
help from a borrowed motorcycle battery but I sure would like to be able to
rectify the situation.
Thanks in advance: FRANK HODSON, OXFORD ME (FS II N6399J)
fwhodson@megalink.net http://www.megalink.net/~fwhodson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com> |
> I'm getting ready to paint the fuselage and the small parts
> associated with
> it. I have read of parts that are hard to fit when they are painted. Any
> recommendation of which areas to mask off.
>
Dear Will:
A good rule of thumb for surfaces that if painted may cause trouble is if
these parts need to be sleeved into another part. Aileron control horns,
horizontal stabilizer attachment horns, the inside surfaces of the tail boom
receiving rings etc.
I used a STITS (POLYFIBER) two part epoxy primer with good luck. I was able
to remove unwanted/excess coverage over the next several weeks with the
associated epoxy reducer and polyfiber reducer.
Good Luck: FRANK HODSON, Oxford ME
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating |
I got the white epoxy primer from Jim and
>Dondi - can anyone tell me if this is a stand alone coating, or do I need to
>final paint it too ?? Regular primer is porous, and needs to be painted,
>but I'm not familiar with this stuff.
> Big Lar.
My experience with the white epoxy aircraft primer is that it is marginal
and will scratch without a coat of paint on top of it. I know that is a
real pain now but a lot more trouble later. Also you should wait four days
after you prime it before you paint it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G." <johann.g(at)centrum.is> |
| Subject: | Re: Clevis Pins for Mark III and Firestar II |
Hi Richard,
Thank you for your reply. The enlargement is in the lower lift strut.
When I drilled the holes for the clevis pins, they were a tight fit. I did use
the 1/4 " drill
There has only been one rough landing where I bent the landing legs, but that
was last summer. Other than that the landings have been normal and the field
mostly grass.
I did search the archives again, and found a few letters on the subject, where
John Jung had the same experience. I also found the solution form John Hauck,
where he welded the spacer on the lift strut and used a bolt instead of the
clevis pin.
Has anyone used a rubber spacer to prevent the strut from moving or vibrating
back and forth?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Powder Coating |
> I got the white epoxy primer from Jim and
>>Dondi - can anyone tell me if this is a stand alone coating, or do I need to
>>final paint it too ?? Regular primer is porous, and needs to be painted,
>>but I'm not familiar with this stuff.
>> Big Lar.
>
>
>Have not sprayed epoxy primer, only brushed it, and it is not porous.
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
Agreed. I've sprayed epoxy primer. Smooth as glass, NOTHING will stick.
If you want the epoxy primer to have a color coat, that coat must be
sprayed on while epoxy still tacky, or after scuff sanding. I had my
first fuse tube coat peel off with practically no effort cuz I let the
epoxy coat fully cure. A learning experience :-/
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Swartz <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Is anybody home???? |
I used the signed receipt I got from Kolb with no problems.
Terry
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> Whazzat ?? What FAA approved form ?? Anyone else heard of this ?? All
> I've got is the original receipt they sent when they received my check.
> Isn't that enough ?? Big Lar.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frank & Winnie Hodson <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com>
> To: the new kolb
> Sent: Sunday, July 18, 1999 9:39 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Is anybody home????
>
>
> >
> > HELLO ???
> >
> > I was just wondering if there were any real life forms at TNK?
> >
> > I have been trying for two months to get a signed aircraft sales slip on
> > the proper FAA approved form.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Highsmith" <michael.highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Very descriptive. Thanks MH
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 21, 1999 9:59 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 178 seconds
>
>
>178 Seconds to Live
>
>How long can a pilot who has little or no instrument training expect to
>live after he flies into bad weather and loses visual contact?
>
>Researchers at the University of Illinois did some tests and came up
>with some very interesting data. Twenty student "guinea pigs" flew into
>simulated instrument weather, and all went into graveyard spirals or
>roller coasters [attribute to the U of I flight training program??]. The
>outcome differed in only one respect - the time required till control was
>lost. The interval ranged from 480 seconds to 20 seconds. The average
>time was 178 seconds -- two seconds short of three minutes.
>
>Here's the fatal scenario. . . . . . .
>The sky is overcast and the visibility is poor. That reported five mile
>visibility looks more like two, and you can't judge the height of the
>overcast. Your altimeter tells you that you are at 1500 feet but your map
>tells
>you that there's local terrain as high as 1200 feet. There might be a
>tower nearby because you're not sure how far off course you are. But
>you've flown into worse weather than this, so press on.
>You find yourself unconsciously easing back just a bit on the
>controls to clear those towers. With no warning, you're in the soup.
>You peer so hard into the milky white mist that your eyes hurt. You fight
>
>the feeling in your stomach. You try to swallow, only to find your mouth
>dry. Now you realize you should have waited for better weather. The
>appointment was important, but not all that important.
>Somewhere a voice is saying, "You've had it -- it's all over!"
>You now have 178 seconds to live.
>Your aircraft feels on even keel but your compass turns slowly. You
>push a little rudder and add a little pressure on the controls to stop
>the turn but this feels unnatural and you return the controls to their
>original position. This feels better but now your compass is turning a
>little faster and your airspeed is increasing slightly.
>You scan your instruments for help but what you see looks somewhat
>unfamiliar. You're sure that this is just a bad spot. You'll break out in
>a few minutes.
>
>(But you don't have a few minutes left. . .)
>
>You now have 100 seconds to live.
>You glance at your altimeter and you are shocked to see it unwinding.
>You're already down to 1200 feet. Instinctively, you pull back on the
>controls but the altimeter still unwinds. The engine is into the red and
>the airspeed, nearly so. You have 45 seconds to live.
>Now you're sweating and shaking. There must be something wrong with the
>controls; pulling back only moves the airspeed indicator further into
>the red. You can hear the wind tearing at the aircraft. You are about to
>meet your Maker; you have 10 seconds to live. Suddenly you see the
>ground. The trees rush up at you. You can see the horizon if you turn
>your head far enough but it's at a weird angle --
>
>you're almost inverted. You open your mouth to scream but. . . . . ..
>you just ran our of seconds.
>
>Think about it before you press on into marginal weather
>
>Lucian Bartosik
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Kolb crash in Minnesota, again. |
See:
http://www.channel4000.com/news/stories/news-990721-150015.html
Supposedly it is a Kolb Mkiii (according to last nights television news). Does
anyone know who the pilot was? My friend saw the news report and told me that
the pilot ended up with a pc of aluminum tube stuck thru his neck. Hopefully the
guy(s) is recovering OK.
I am not sure of whether the plane had floats or not. I heard he had just
taken off from across the lake and had 100' altitude when it fell off one side
and hit the water in a spiral.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Yates" <johny(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Is anybody home???? |
Hello Frank
You can call me for tech questions I will try to help you as much as I can.
As far as the paper work being filled out old Kolb and TN Kolb as to work
out a few details (A.S.A.P.)
For tech questions call me @ 717-362-1057
John Yates
Chief Operating Officer
606-862-9692 610-948-4136 717-362-1057
www.tnkolbaircraft.com
tnkolbaircraft@sun-spot.com
www.kolbaircraft.com
johny(at)epix.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Frank & Winnie Hodson <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 21, 1999 9:13 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Is anybody home????
>
>> Whazzat ?? What FAA approved form ?? Anyone else heard of this ?? All
>> I've got is the original receipt they sent when they received my check.
>> Isn't that enough ?? Big Lar.
>
>I sent copies of my sales slips and invoices with my application for
>registration to the FAA.
>I did receive my N number assignment (N6399J) but was notified that the
>aircraft could not be registered until I returned a completed AC FORM
>#8050-2 which included the sellers name and authorized signature. The FAA
>was actually rather expeditious in returning this request and even included
>the required paperwork.....Now as for some assistance from KOLB/TNK, I have
>made repeated calls and sent a written request with the form completed sans
>signature with zero response over the last 8 weeks. Bitter? Not yet.
>Frustrating? You bet!
>
>FRANK HODSON: OXFORD ME
>
>P.S. I again called TNK today at (606) 862-9692 and actually heard a
voice,
>however it was a recording promising to return my call.....I'm still
>hopeful!
>Is this the correct number, do the read the e-mail we send to their listed
>address, or does somebody have the inside scoop on how to get to actually
>reach them? I have some technical questions that I would like to discuss.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
When I painted the cage on my MKIII, Stits did not have white epoxy
primer, only pukey yellow, so I used Randolph epoxy primer.
I used three coats, brushed on, and the first coat is kind of frustrating,
because it tends to fish eye, and not lay on real consistent.
Let the first coat dry, then hit it all over with 400 wet or dry (dry)
and the next coat will go on pretty smooth. Final sand lightly all
over with 400 wet or dry. It is easy to sand, and holds up real well.
I thought it was pretty easy and gave good results. Stits Poly Tak
sticks to it real well.
Several years ago I primered another fuselage with Stits epoxy primer,
brushed on the same way, sanded, etc. and it behaved identically.
> I'm getting ready to paint the fuselage and the small parts
> associated with
> it. I have read of parts that are hard to fit when they are painted. Any
> recommendation of which areas to mask off.
>
>
>Dear Will:
>
>A good rule of thumb for surfaces that if painted may cause trouble is if
>these parts need to be sleeved into another part. Aileron control horns,
>horizontal stabilizer attachment horns, the inside surfaces of the tail boom
>receiving rings etc.
>
>I used a STITS (POLYFIBER) two part epoxy primer with good luck. I was able
>to remove unwanted/excess coverage over the next several weeks with the
>associated epoxy reducer and polyfiber reducer.
>
>Good Luck: FRANK HODSON, Oxford ME
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Is anybody home???? |
Form 8050-2 has been required for years but it was not until Aug 31, 98
that the FAA would not issue an ownership certiciate with out it. Kolb (old)
completed the form and sent it to me and included it in my package to the
FAA. I had no problem with the registration.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Frank & Winnie Hodson
Sent: 7/21/99 9:02 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Is anybody home????
> Whazzat ?? What FAA approved form ?? Anyone else heard of this ??
All
> I've got is the original receipt they sent when they received my
check.
> Isn't that enough ?? Big Lar.
I sent copies of my sales slips and invoices with my application for
registration to the FAA.
I did receive my N number assignment (N6399J) but was notified that the
aircraft could not be registered until I returned a completed AC FORM
#8050-2 which included the sellers name and authorized signature. The
FAA
was actually rather expeditious in returning this request and even
included
the required paperwork.....Now as for some assistance from KOLB/TNK, I
have
made repeated calls and sent a written request with the form completed
sans
signature with zero response over the last 8 weeks. Bitter? Not yet.
Frustrating? You bet!
FRANK HODSON: OXFORD ME
P.S. I again called TNK today at (606) 862-9692 and actually heard a
voice,
however it was a recording promising to return my call.....I'm still
hopeful!
Is this the correct number, do the read the e-mail we send to their
listed
address, or does somebody have the inside scoop on how to get to
actually
reach them? I have some technical questions that I would like to
discuss.
---
---
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: restrictions |
After you fly off your 40 hours, you make a notation
in the aircraft logbook like this:
( Nashville FSDO gave me the phraseology, so it's OK )
"I certify that the prescribed flight test hours have been
completed and the aircraft is controllable throughout it's
range of speeds and throughout all manuevers to be
executed, has no hazardous operating characteristics
or design features, and is safe for operation."
Then you sign your name as the builder.
Now: something to think about---
Have you applied for your Repairman's Certificate yet?
As long as the aircraft was under the flight test period
you could do anything you wanted to it. Once it has finished
it's 40 hour fly-off, and is signed off, now you are in the big
leagues. Anything other than minor maintainance, bigger
stuff that would normally need an A&P to sign off, you, the
builder, should have a Repairman's Certificate to legally do.
(In some regions, this is a gray area, but just to play safe)
Also, you have to have it anyway to do your annual condition
inspection, or you can't sign it off.
When you do the condition inspection, the logbook entry looks like this:
"I certify that this aircraft has been inspected on (date) in accordance
with the scope and detail of Appendix D of 14 CFR Part 43,
and found to be in condition for safe operation."
(your printed name)
(your signed name) Repairman, Experimental Aircraft Builder
(your Repairman's certificate #) Total time in service, xxxxx hours.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
Technical Counselor, EAA 442
>
> My paperwork is in my hanger desk at the airport, and I am home
>wondering. [Ain't that wonderful?] What is the next step for me now that
>I have flown off the restriction time? If I ever knew, I can't remember.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Fletcher" <bwf(at)emailmn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb crash in Minnesota, again. |
Thanks to all of all who expressed concern. Bruce's plane did go down
yesterday (7/21) afternoon; he will be OK; FAA and TSB are investigating but
the report I received from Bruce late last night indicated some problem with
the tail; "it felt loose and I couldn't control it at all so I tried to stay
over water and avoid a very crowded swimming beach". Will try and keepall of
you posted on outcome of investigation and Bruce's physical status. Took
them 30-45 minutes to extricate him from the plane.
Please respond to this address with any questions.
Thanks again for your concern and good thoughts.
Helen Fletcher
----- Original Message -----
From: <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 1999 7:11 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb crash in Minnesota, again.
>
> See:
> http://www.channel4000.com/news/stories/news-990721-150015.html
>
> Supposedly it is a Kolb Mkiii (according to last nights television news).
Does
> anyone know who the pilot was? My friend saw the news report and told me
that
> the pilot ended up with a pc of aluminum tube stuck thru his neck.
Hopefully the
> guy(s) is recovering OK.
> I am not sure of whether the plane had floats or not. I heard he had
just
> taken off from across the lake and had 100' altitude when it fell off one
side
> and hit the water in a spiral.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill & Leslie Johnston" <johnston(at)intrepid.net> |
Please remove me from the Kolb list at this time, thanks, Bill Johnston Jr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab now or later? |
Instead of adding an unsightly trim tab(at least to me ) when I installed
the 912, I decided to use the entire airplane as the counterforce and fly
it slightly sideways. If I want to correct it, I will go the route that
John Hauck went and put the vertical stab at the required angle.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Frank Reynen MKIII@525hrs
Erich Weaver wrote - - -
should I be installing a trim tab on my rudder (and ailerons?) right now,
before it
even gets in the air, or would it be best to wait and see how it handles
and
see if its really necessary?
Erich;
I guess it's an almost certainty that a tab will be required on an aileron
and on the rudder. I put mine on after flying a bit to sorta determine how
much tab is needed.
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
________________________________________________________________________________
Big Lar wrote - - - Whazzat ?? What FAA approved form ?? Anyone else heard
of this ?? All I've got is the original receipt they sent when they received
my check. Isn't that enough ?? Big Lar.
The bill of sale or receipt that came with my kit satisfied the FAA when I
submitted my registration application papers. I don't know of any special
FAA approved form for a "sales slip."
Ron Christensen
MKIII1/2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
I also used Randolph epoxy primer on my plane -- the cage, all the steel,
and the fuselage tube. I used a "touch-up" gun and these are down to about
$20 or $25 at Harbor Freight now. They will not last forever, but
certainly they are good for this type of job. They are small enf to be
able to get inside the cage to spray at odd angles, and the spray pattern
is small enf to minimize overspray to acceptable levels. It goes on fast
and smooth and is the BIG reward for all the metal prep work. I would
no-way be interested in powder coating if it added even 5 lbs, let alone
20. Epoxy is good stuff, and I feel it is plenty tough too, although not
as tough as powder coating. PolyTone color on metal parts is NOT tough
against nicks. I got around this on my cage by buying a latex from ACE
called ToughCoat. (I've mentioned this before.) The nice thing, besides
it being latex (ease to use and cleanup) and very tough, is that I think
you can get it pigment matched to your polytone! It also sprayed on nice
with the same touchup gun. Lastly, it is not dissolved
by Stits polytak unless you soak it for way too long. Geez, ToughCoat
should give me a commission for this! Perhaps the best of both worlds is
to get the cage and steel sandblasted to save on all the prep time, but take
it home and epoxy spray it. I don't know what it would cost for
sandblasting, and there are purists who would argue that sandblasting is a
negative because of its possible effects to harden and brittle the steel
(like shot-peening cranks). For the budget-minded, just stay home and do
all the prep and spraying.
Thanks Possum, Larry, and others for your confirmation on some of the
negatives of powder coating, those being weight and over-doing it. I no
longer regret having done mine the old-fashioned way.
-Ben
>
>When I painted the cage on my MKIII, Stits did not have white epoxy
>primer, only pukey yellow, so I used Randolph epoxy primer.
>I used three coats, brushed on, and the first coat is kind of frustrating,
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb crash in Minnesota, again. |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Hi All,
Commenting on Bruce's Kolb Mark III that crashed yesterday out on
Medicine Lake in Plymouth MN, this was a modified Kolb with extended all
aluminum Titan wings, Rotax 912 80hp engine, IVO Magnum ground-adjustable
prop, Lotus monofloat with outrigger, retractable electric driven
gearlegs, and was built by the late Jim Lee. I flew with Bruce this past
Saturday as he met me at the private field I set up and launch from. One
of the things I first noticed was the loose tail-bracing. The bottom
cables were slack and I recommended that we replace the bottom wing nut
with a ny-lock one right away. I gave him a new one and watched him
replace it. There was still a lot of slack and I made some other
recommendations. We took off and flew to Winsted, about 20 miles away and
cruised 60 mph together. After our stay, we both took off and flew the
remaining distance back to the field while he continued on home. I gassed
up and flew over Medicine Lake to see if he made it back ok. I confirmed
that he did and flew the rest of the evening. It was last evening while
watching the local news that I saw the plane in the water while rescuer's
hauled him out on a stretcher.
I hope Bruce is doing well and am anxious to find out the details of this
crash.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 447 powered
writes:
>
>Thanks to all of all who expressed concern. Bruce's plane did go down
>yesterday (7/21) afternoon; he will be OK; FAA and TSB are
>investigating but
>the report I received from Bruce late last night indicated some
>problem with
>the tail; "it felt loose and I couldn't control it at all so I tried
>to stay
>over water and avoid a very crowded swimming beach". Will try and
>keepall of
>you posted on outcome of investigation and Bruce's physical status.
>Took
>them 30-45 minutes to extricate him from the plane.
>Please respond to this address with any questions.
>Thanks again for your concern and good thoughts.
>Helen Fletcher
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, July 22, 1999 7:11 AM
>Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb crash in Minnesota, again.
>
>
>>
>> See:
>> http://www.channel4000.com/news/stories/news-990721-150015.html
>>
>> Supposedly it is a Kolb Mkiii (according to last nights television
>news).
>Does
>> anyone know who the pilot was? My friend saw the news report and
>told me
>that
>> the pilot ended up with a pc of aluminum tube stuck thru his neck.
>Hopefully the
>> guy(s) is recovering OK.
>> I am not sure of whether the plane had floats or not. I heard he
>had
>just
>> taken off from across the lake and had 100' altitude when it fell
>off one
>side
>> and hit the water in a spiral.
>>
>>
>
>
June 21, 1999 - July 22, 1999
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bn