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Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bt
October 30, 1999 - November 18, 1999

GeoR38(at)aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 10/29/99 2:59:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > motavia(at)olypen.com writes: > > < better, go ahead. 3000+ hrs without them says they are not needed. When > I check the tourque every 50 hours, it is ALWAYS stable (after the first > few flights). >> > > whoa!!....what does that mean Mike, during the first few flights after > torquing it is NOT stable...... I'm glad to hear that you have 3000 hrs > without locknuts though....my mere 100 hrs sans nuts is paltry......i just > can't figure out WHY, without any locknut the bolts just don't back out with > the regular vibration.....got any idea? All I do is paint a little fingernail > polish on the bolts and check the paint before each flight....for some DUMB > reason they NEVER backout..... but .....that's the way IVO wants it.... > GeoR38 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Rate Of Climb Meters
I agree with you Richard, ROC, is very important in the decision process and I have found myself in situations just like you mention--ROC tells the story --will I clear those tress, mountains, clouds whatever. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
Date: Oct 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Control Hinges
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 99-10-26 1:41:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > rbaker2(at)juno.com writes: > > << Do I paint the control surface hinges before riveting them in place? >> > > I painted my hinges completely before installation with DuPont Centauri. > Stitts polytone paint doesn't stick well to metal. To get good adhesion one has to use the procedure specified in the PolyFiber manual as to preparation of the metal surface. Will then stick fine. However, PolyTone is not intended for hard surfaces and is relatively easily scratched if used on metal. I have heard of this DuPont Centauri, and understand it works very well. This is much simpler than the above mentioned process, and would be particularly good for small projects. gil leiter MAPLEWOOD, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: RE: electrical problem
>Did you happen to notice the ammeter while in the air. If it is showing a >high rate of charge after a 'lap' or two around the pattern, then I'd look >at your battery. A dying battery will pull a lot of current from the >alternator. If this is the case, then all the current from the alternator >will heat up the circuit breaker until it trips. Batteries with a shorted cell change from a 12v to a 10v battery and will indeed draw lots of extra current while being "charged" from a 14v bus. Shorted cells result from a pile-up of flakey, conductive material shed from the plates . . . which normally fall harmlessly to the bottom of the cell cavity. Back in the good ol' days, a deep pile of this flakey stuff would get too deep and short a cell. There are a few, even more rare failure modes of the separators between plates that can produce shorted cells. Shorted cells in modern flooded batteries is extremely rare and you woul notice it immediately in poor cranking performance and dim lights with the alternator off. Further, a battery with a shorted cell is likely to be so old that its useful service life is long since passed. Most (99.99%) of battery failures manifest themselves in poor cranking performance and what appears to be a very rapid recharge time after the engine starts. The time and amplitude of ammeter "charge" indication after startup is directly related to the battery's capacity and internal resistance. As capacity goes down, resitance goes up and apparent charging time and amplitude will both go down too. In the instance under discussion, I don't belive this is the case. >A friend of mine replaced the left position light after crunching into a >hanger door. Got the part from the same make and model year complete with >lamp. Flew several months before going at night. After that flight, he >noticed the circuit breaker for the nav lights had tripped. Reset the >breaker and thought nothing of it until the next flight. 'POP' > >He asked me to look into it. We pulled the wingtip and looked for chaffed >wires; nothing. Looked at the holder, clean. Then looked at the lamp. >Nothing note worthy. Looked at the right side. Nothing out of the >ordinary their either. > >Then I noticed something; then left lamp was a 26 watt lamp. The right was >a 20 watt lamp. Assuming that all nav lights were 20 watts in a 12 volt >airplane, that makes 5 amps. The nav light breaker is a 5 amp breaker. Add >6 watts to the mix and you 5.5 amps. >The circuit breaker would not pop right away. It took about 15 minutes for >it to get hot enough to trip. The breaker was undersized . . . the minimum breaker size for nav lites in a 14v airplane is 7.5 amps. Breakers and wiring used to plumb the system should be selected with enough headroom to INSURE NO NUISANCE TRIPS . . . I've written before about breakers designed to nuisance trip in the form of a 60A breaker on a 60A alternator . . . the writer has just identified another one. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================= http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 30, 1999
Subject: Re: Rate Of Climb Meters
In a message dated 10/30/99 12:08:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, swidersk(at)digital.net writes: << The fact that I hesitated & felt confused for a few seconds made me doubt myself later. Here is the point of all this: If I had my ROC meter installed I would not have had an information gap to begin with as I would have been clearly monitoring my climb rate from lift off, & there would of been no surprises to deal with when I got to that go-no-go decision point. From that day forward, I never again considered a ROC meter just a toy. I now see it as an instrument that greatly enhances my ability to make critical decisions in the spur of the moment. For the benifits it provides me, I can not justify not having one. ...Richard Swiderski GeoR38(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 10/29/99 3:12:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > Tim.Hrib(at)carefirst.com writes: > > < climb indicator, their really unneccesary in an ultralight. >> > as a former soaring pilot, the second most important instrument to me (maybe > third) would be the rate of climb indicator. I love to soar my ul and do it > whenever there is natural lift! I don't have one but some day I will get a > variometer!.............. GeoR38 > different strokes ....different folks > >> Richard....Good story.....been there ....done that too...ie, the moment of decision....or indecision....as ....sometimes happens....So far, I've been lucky and always made the right decision, but my good flying buddy Harris, didn't just a coupla weeks ago. Some of you may remember that I made a 100 mile 3 legged trip in his N3 Pup (nice plane) and delivered it to his house by air from Barnesville Ohio to Bristolville Ohio a coupla years ago. Well, there will be no more N3 pup to blame "underpowered" on anymore!! He did very close to what you just described, Richard, only he bought the big one...or at least the N3 did. It was the first time he ever landed at a different field from his own (I wasn't there at the time) and on takeoff, he had to decide to stick with it or abort. He stuck with it too long and ended up seeing that he wasn't going to make the power lines on the other side of the paved country road and turned about 45 degrees as he was stalling in and impacted a ditch first which sheared off his 2 gear as he went sailing on to the pavement in a shower of sparks and toothpicks as his new prop went from 54 to 6 inches in a losing battle with the asphalt....bounced across the road at 45 degrees and hit the high ditch on the other side ...his wing hit a parked pickup and broke a bit of the rear end of it. Now N3 is chrome moly too and Harris ,my friend the pilot, got out and had not a scratch....in spite of the fact that one wing was broken off, , the empannage was disconnected, the fuselage was mangled...except for the cage part or at least the part where he was. He was very very lucky!! What happened?? No one really knows, except for the fact that he was following 2 other uls out of there and may have been suffering from vortex....it was also a crosswind day and there was a treeline which probably caused down swirling as he was trying to rise in a 1/2 vw underpowered airplane when compared to a 447 and a Kolb. We Kolb people are very fortunate to be powered by minimum 447's. We have the opportunity to have our own way so to speak with mother nature...up to a reasonable point. It has been 3 weeks now and I offered him a chance to hop mine yesterday, which he did and his response was...."your plane is easy to fly!" I need to stress on him the need to let the plane fly instead of snow plow...which I think is one of his main problems and may explain why he no longer has a plane. If he had looked at the variometer (which he didn't have anyway) he would have seen that he was in stall and should have dropped his nose. GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 1999
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re:Rate Of Climb/Vortex
>He was very very lucky!! What happened?? No one really knows, except for the >fact that he was following 2 other uls out of there and may have been >suffering from vortex... > GeoR38 > George brings up a good point that I have not seen discussed on the list so far, and that is vortex from other U/L's. All of us are aware of wake turbulence from large and heavy aircraft, (or we should be), but Skyhawks, Cherokees, and even flutterbugs lay down a surprising amount of vortex. Next time you go flying with another U/L, get 300-500' behind it, and a tad lower, and find his wake, and play with it for a while. Then picture finding it by surprise just after rotating on take off, or else while you are in the flare to land. Just food for thought. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42OldPoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 1999
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Wake turbulance
Richard, I was making an X TO at VNY in '66 in my old 172. A V Bonanza had just passed on TO when I taxied onto the rnwy and put the cobs to 'er. I was at gross, maybe more, hot August day. I was just airborne when I had a 60 roll left, and soon a 60 to the right--at abt 50' I didn't think a banana could do that, but it did. A UL would've inverted. bn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 1999
Subject: Re: Control Hinges
From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Re-posted per Matt's suggeston, --------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 22:32:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Control Hinges Gil, After your and other inputs, I decided that Poly-Tone was not the right finish for metal parts so, I removed the fuselage tube from the cage and spent several hours with MEK removing the Poly-Tone (not a lot of fun). Epoxy primer held up well, but I wet sanded with 400 and then applied another coat of primer followed with Centauri. I am much happier with the finish and am now back to where I was 2 weeks ago. L. Ray Baker Lake Butler, Fl Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB ********************************************** > To get good adhesion one has to use the procedure specified in the > PolyFiber manual as to preparation of the metal surface. Will then > stick fine. However, PolyTone is not intended for hard surfaces and > is > relatively easily scratched if used on metal. > > I have heard of this DuPont Centauri, and understand it works very > well. This is much simpler than the above mentioned process, and > would > be particularly good for small projects. > > gil leiter > MAPLEWOOD, MN - > > -- > Kolb-List: > > -- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ALLENB007(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 01, 1999
Subject: Re: FireFly Speed
Bruce, I weigh between 200-205 lbs and am 6ft.3in. My rpms at cruise speed of 55-60 mph were between 5100-5200 rpms. The only rpm area i had to stay out of due to high temps was between 4,000-4,800rpms. Any more questions, call, allen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WC7WAY(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 01, 1999
Subject: FireFly S/N 08 SOLD
FireFly S/N 08 was sold on 10/30/99. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 1999
From: "Wally Hofmann" <whofmann(at)eudoramail.com>
Subject: Hot Seat ?
Over the weekend I mounted my voltage regulator below where the fabric sling seat will be installed. Then I got to thinking... Why the huge cooling fins on the regulator? How hot does this baby get? Could it melt the fabric, brand my derriere, and send me crashing in a ball of flames? Wally Hofmann Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at http://www.eudoramail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org>
Subject: Tommy & Carolyn(at)centurytel.net
Date: Nov 01, 1999
Hello Tommy from Louisiana--I have tried to reply to your e-mail but there must be an error with your e-mail address. Please try again. Bruce E. Harrison ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com>
Subject: Re: Hot Seat ?
Date: Nov 01, 1999
Wally, How hot does this baby get? I would say that heat is directly proportional to the amount of load put on the regulator/rectifier. Could it melt the fabric, brand my derriere? Don't know. Send me crashing in a ball of flames? I hope not. However, as an Aviation Electronics Technician for 29 years, I would suggest NOT putting it under the seat. Mine is located on the port side of the engine below the engine shock mount area---plenty of air flows across the cooling fins and as a side benefit it has a very short wire run from the Eng. coil outputs to the regulator. Just my .02 worth. Dennis (Original Firestar) ----- Original Message ----- From: Wally Hofmann <whofmann(at)eudoramail.com> Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 11:59 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Hot Seat ? > > Over the weekend I mounted my voltage regulator below where the fabric sling seat will be installed. Then I got to thinking... Why the huge cooling fins on the regulator? > > How hot does this baby get? Could it melt the fabric, brand my derriere, and send me crashing in a ball of flames? > > > Wally Hofmann > > > Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at http://www.eudoramail.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Dupont paint
Date: Nov 01, 1999
I have read about the painting of the boom tube here lately (Ray Baker?) and had a couple of questions about it. I am famaliar with Dupont Centauri paint (painted a '71 Karmann Ghia with it about 10 years ago) but wasn't sure about the primer. Does Dupont sell a Epoxy primer that will withstand MEK or should I just buy the primer from the Millers (Aircraft Tech.). I should have bought the primer from the Millers before the Kolb fly-in as they offered to bring it in their truck and avoid all shipping costs , but I didn't at the time. Now if I can buy it locally I would rather 'cause I'm sure having it shipped would be expensive due to hazardous materials fees... Any ideas??? One other question...What extent did most of you guys go to with the corrosion protection??? I am having all steel parts powder coated , and I will epoxy prime and paint the boom tube . What about the insides of the aluminum surfaces??? The Millers recommended epoxy priming it after building as a precaution but I wanted the opinion of the list on that area. If I am going to due that then I will need to slosh the insides of the wing spars when I do the boom tube in a couple of weeks. As a note here , I intend to put the plane on a mono float in a couple of years (maybe sooner) and want it to be protected (but not overkill cause paint has weight...). What think guys??? John Hauck , your opinion? I figure yours has been all over in about every kind of enviroment and it's not rusted away , so what did you do??? Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com Mark 3 under const. Getting to first solo cross country soon in a C-152...(Hope to not get lost...) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Dupont paint
Date: Nov 01, 1999
When mine is complete, (soon now, I hope) I plan to treat all the inside areas with "Corrosion X" or similar. Weighs almost nothing, and is re-newable. ( Re Do-able ?? ) Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 12:45 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Dupont paint > > One other question...What extent did most of you guys go to with the > corrosion protection??? I am having all steel parts powder coated , and I > will epoxy prime and paint the boom tube . What about the insides of the > aluminum surfaces??? The Millers recommended epoxy priming it after > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org>
Subject: Dupont paint
Date: Nov 01, 1999
What is Corrosion X and where can I get some? Bruce E. Harrison -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 3:49 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Dupont paint When mine is complete, (soon now, I hope) I plan to treat all the inside areas with "Corrosion X" or similar. Weighs almost nothing, and is re-newable. ( Re Do-able ?? ) Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 12:45 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Dupont paint > > One other question...What extent did most of you guys go to with the > corrosion protection??? I am having all steel parts powder coated , and I > will epoxy prime and paint the boom tube . What about the insides of the > aluminum surfaces??? The Millers recommended epoxy priming it after > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Dupont paint
> > What think guys??? John Hauck , your opinion? I figure yours has been all > over in about every kind of enviroment and it's not rusted away , so what > did you do??? > > Jeremy Casey Jeremy and Gang: On a very wet Monday afternoon, I pray for sunshine. So far so good on my MK III. I hear a lot of talk about outside, but not much inside. One of the first things I do is put tube seal inside the fuselage tubes, the 4130 cage. I have been using a can (qt) of Stitts Tube seal since 1984. On the can are directions for amount in CCs per length of a given diameter tube. I did the Ultrastar, Firestar, and the MK III. I cut up the fuselage of the Ultrastar to examine the results, when it was retired. Tube seal works. No matter how well a joint is welded, it is likely pin holes exist. Moisture gets in and rust starts. Tube seal will take care of preventing rust and seal up any small holes. Also a positive indicator that a weld or tube has cracked. I poured epoxy primer inside small parts that were made of 4130 tubing, dumped it out and let it drain and dry. Aluminum, I didn't try and protect. So far, I do not have any problems. I do have drain holes at each rib on wings, ailerons, and elevators. Also holes in trailing edge of horizontal and vertical stabilizers. I think this helps to reduce condensation and corrosion of the aluminum parts. In a float plane environment, especially salt water, I think max corrosion protection would be advisable. I have found some dissimilar corrosion on the aluminum lift strut fairing where I mounted the nickel plated pitot/static system. Not a structural problem now, but it does look ugly. Other than that, my MK III is is good shape, considering it has spent many days outside in the weather. However, not a lot around salt water. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Dupont paint
Date: Nov 01, 1999
You'll see ads for it in the flying mags, such as Flying, Nov '99, page 132. (www.corrosionx.com). It's apparently a kind of wax, dissolved in a solvent. You spray it inside the wings, etc. "AFTER" all covering and painting is completed. The solvent carries it into all the little nooks and crannies, under rivet heads etc., then evaporates, leaving a waxy coating. I've read good things about it. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruce E. Harrison <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 1:18 PM Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Dupont paint > > What is Corrosion X and where can I get some? > > Bruce E. Harrison > > > -----Original Message----- > Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 3:49 PM > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Dupont paint > > > > When mine is complete, (soon now, I hope) I plan to treat all the inside > areas with "Corrosion X" or similar. Weighs almost nothing, and is > re-newable. ( Re Do-able ?? ) Big Lar. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> > To: > Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 12:45 PM > Subject: Kolb-List: Dupont paint > > > > > > One other question...What extent did most of you guys go to with the > > corrosion protection??? I am having all steel parts powder coated , and I > > will epoxy prime and paint the boom tube . What about the insides of the > > aluminum surfaces??? The Millers recommended epoxy priming it after > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 01, 1999
Subject: Re: Dupont paint
In a message dated 11/1/99 4:41:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jrcasey(at)mindspring.com writes: << One other question...What extent did most of you guys go to with the corrosion protection??? >> I have recovered a couple of Kolbs, one of them an ultrastar that was kept semi outdoors for about 10 years. When I pulled the cover off I was struck by how generally good the aluminum looked. But there was significant corrosion on the rivet heads and some evidence of aluminum corrosion around the rivets. When I put my mark 3 together I dipped each individual rivet in epoxy primer and pulled it wet. Then I would take the remainder of the small batch of primer and just brush it around. It looks kinda sloppy, but how many folks look inside your wings? I didn't bother with the insides of pipes. I had no plans to put my plane on floats. If I did, especially if it was salt water, I would have done the insides. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 01, 1999
Subject: Re: Tommy & Carolyn(at)centurytel.net
Hi, Tommy. I, too have tried to reply to you directly without success. I have a FS I and live in SC. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "townsend" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Subject: The H section and rivets
Date: Nov 01, 1999
Hi all, Tim T. here I am building a mark III and when installing the H section in the wing spar I noticed that the H section did not have the six inch reinforcement thick walled tube in it. The book says to use 1/2 inch rivets there but the plans does not show this tube in the H section and calls for 1/8 rivets there. My wings are almost finished but this still bugs me.... any thoughts. second, Does the little ball in the end of the rivet need to stay in the end after setting the rivet?? On the drag strut, the three inch spaced rivets at the root end with the last tube involved, the 1/2 inch rivets popped out the end balls. Is this a problem or should I drill them out and set a longer rivet?? Thanks for reading Our Best Tim T. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 1999
From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Subject: Vertical Speed Indicator
Kolb Gang - Very interesting recent thread on VSIs - to have 'em or not. Here's another opinion in favor of the instrument, and why: Flying out of Albuquerque (elev 5380' msl), we have the 10,300' Sandia Peaks right next to town - a long, constantly sloping ridge, rising from the local terrain level (about 6000') right up to the Peak. Lots of great ridge-lift on that piece of geography. (Home of the Sandia Peak Summer Classic Hang Glider Championships - considered among the top three best soaring locations in N.America.) And not reserved for just the hang gliders, either. Little airplanes of all sorts fly along the Sandia ridge to catch all that 'free lift' and play amongst the updrafts and sheer cliffs, with always the safety of lower terrain and the airport right there under one wingtip. I used to do 'ridge flying' often in my chubby old TriPacer-135 (which was sold to finance my current Mark-3 project. Good trade.) I'd sometimes see a 2000 fpm rate of climb ... while already above 11,000 feet! In a TriPacer! So the point of this bit of rambling is, I'm gonna have a VSI in my finished Mark-3 because there are few things that match the exhilaration of seeing (and feeling) 2000 fpm UP registering on a VSI while flying along at 12,000 feet, above these magnificent mountains. Dennis Kirby Mark-3, s/n 300, 75% finished (and itchin' to finish up!) Cedar Crest, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: The H section and rivets
Date: Nov 02, 1999
From what I remember about that stage of construction, the book gets a little confusing. There are updates, without removing the old stuff. Also, you'll want to read ALL of the material sent to you before you build. Some stuff is scattered here and there, and it's irksome to do a stage, then find an update, or alternative, later on. Correlate the plans and the books too. Go through it piece by piece. (Hmmmmm.......... the book says this, and the plans show that........! ! !) All in all it works real well, and it's a hell of a plane, but nobody's perfect. That thick walled tube, and 1/2" rivets are for the old aluminum ( I think ) re-inforcement. Doesn't apply to the newer steel H-beam. These rivets aren't designed to hold the core after popping. Some will hold it, some won't. I think if you get a good "mushroom", you'll be in good shape. I've been giving some thought to using Cherry N or Q rivets for the wing folding attachments on the ends of the spars, with washers on the inside. Seems like that would be a high shear application, and those rivets DO hold the core. I'll bet this gets some of them pawing the dirt. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: townsend <townsend(at)webound.com> Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 6:29 PM Subject: Kolb-List: The H section and rivets > > Hi all, > > Tim T. here > > I am building a mark III and when installing the H section in the wing spar > I noticed ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "sk8er" <sk8er(at)inreach.com>
Subject: KOLB TRAILER
Date: Nov 02, 1999
>-------------- >Kolb trailer for sale. Enclosed trailer 24' 11" inside, 8'wide 6' 4" >tall. Steel frame, wood covered. It has a hydraulic ram with a 12 volt >motor, that you hookup to your battery. It will push up the front of >trailer, and lower the rear to the ground, for easy loading and unloading. >It's licensed,and ready to go. I used it to hanger the Firestar, and is big >enough, to walk around and work on the plane. For more info e-mail, or call >Mike (559-332-2064) Price $ 2500.00 >-------------- : ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: LRI Group Buy and Donation to Matt
Listers, Jim Huntington has contacted me and expressed his desire to make a donation to Matt for the RV-List and has asked me if I would run another group buy on the list and make the following offer: The usual group buy offer is $670 for the analog LRI unit and $72 for heater and $20 for shipping which reflects a savings of $123 or 14% over the usual prices and shipping. Of course as usual the heater would be optional. If you want the new gauge that was posted on Paul Besing's webpage at: http://members.home.net/rv8er/copperst.htm The cost would be $750 plus the optional heater and shipping described above. Again this reflects a $123 dollar savings for the whole package. Now the part about the list contribution Jim would like to make. He will give 5% of total LRI sales to Matt during this group buy. If we buy 5 or 10 LRI's during this month it can add up to a nice donation. The RV-List is the only place you can get a discount on the LRI! Now I know that there has been some controversy about this instrument on the list but this is not the time to rekindle that thread. Suffice it to say that Jim is puting together some information and data that was requested and also has some other testing in the works that he will announce soon. So let's not look a gift horse in the mouth or bite the hand that feeds us. You should know if you want an LRI or any other AOA device and this would be a great time to buy one. I am just thrilled that Jim is willing to donate to the list in the spirit of "The Builders Bookstore" and "AAMR/AirCore". You can contact me at: prober(at)iwaynet.net or (614) 890-6301 if you have any questions or want to get in on this group buy. Sorry this is so long.........AL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Miller" <jim(at)aircrafttechsupport.com>
Subject: Hazardous shipping....
Date: Nov 02, 1999
If we send you quarts or less of anything, (as we are certified to do) there is no hazardous shipping cost imposed by UPS. The reason builders choose Polytone for their metal pieces is to get an exact color and shine match with the fabric. If you want a harder finish, impervious to fuels, etc, you should use Aerothane. And if you don't want the "wet look", it can be flattened. Thanx, Jim & Dondi Miller Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 1999
From: "Wally Hofmann" <whofmann(at)eudoramail.com>
Subject: hot seat
I mounted my voltage regulator over the weekend. Placed it under where the fabric sling seat will be installed. Then I got to wondering about those massive cooling fins on the regulator. Just how hot does this baby get? Is it going to melt the fabric, brand my derriere, and send me plumeting to earth in a ball of fire? --Wally Hofmann Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at http://www.eudoramail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Vertical Speed Indicator
In a message dated 11/2/99 12:05:14 AM Eastern Standard Time, kirbyd(at)flash.net writes: << I'd sometimes see a 2000 fpm rate of climb ... while already above 11,000 feet! In a TriPacer! So the point of this bit of rambling is, I'm gonna have a VSI in my finished Mark-3 because there are few things that match the exhilaration of seeing (and feeling) 2000 fpm UP registering on a VSI while flying along at 12,000 feet, above these magnificent mountains. Dennis Kirby Mark-3, s/n 300, 75% finished (and itchin' to finish up!) Cedar Crest, NM >> Dennis, I know the power of 1000'/min but 2000.....Whew.....far out....I learned soaring in Las Cruzes and El paso in the early 80's and love it...so I relate...and try to become a part of a rising gaggle whenever the opportunity.....arises! ..................... GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff.Teismann" <JeffTeismann(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10/29/99
Date: Nov 02, 1999
Bruce, I hesitated to respond to your request because you were looking for airspeed and rpm at full throttle, which I have only flown at for short periods on just a couple of occasions. The reason is that with the short FireFly windshield, the wind blast becomes uncomfortable at high speeds. However, since you haven't received many other responses, I thought I'd offer my limited experience: Normal cruise: 55 mph indicated air speed @ 5,000-5,200 rpm. Full throttle: 70-75 mph at 6,000 rpm Notes: 1. Fortunately my airspeed indicator tracks fairly well with my GPS, but I've never collected data using windspeeds, etc. 2. Actual full throttle for me is about 6,150 rpm static and about 6,300 in the air, but I'm only at full throttle on take-off. I've never been above 6,000 rpm on straight and level. 3. My FireFly is about 256 lbs. empty, then add 175 lbs. for me, plus gas, carry-on stuff, etc. and gross wt. is probably about 465-470 lbs. Jeff 30 hrs. in FireFly PS: I'm working on putting a full enclosure on this wonderful flying machine for some cool/cold weather flying. With the full enclosure I expect I'll do more flying at the higher speeds. If I get any new data results soon I'll pass them on. ____ > From: "Bruce McElhoe" <brucem(at)theworks.com> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FireFly Speed > > Fellow Kolbians: > > Can someone tell me the cruise speed and rpm for his Kolb FireFly? > > My partner and I are building a standard FireFly with the Rotax 477, and we > hope to keep it at standard weight, 254 lbs. We are having a 3-blade > propeller carved for us. The prop guy wants to know what our airspeed and > rpm will be at full throttle and low altitude. (We wouldn't expect to > actually cruise at full throttle, but this is the data point he uses for > prop design.) > > We sure would appreciate any real experience you all are getting. Your data > will allow us to get the prop carved right away. > > Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88 > Reedley, California > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce McElhoe" <brucem(at)theworks.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10/29/99
Date: Nov 02, 1999
Jeff, Many thanks for your response to my question about Firefly cruise speed and rpm. This will help us a lot with prop design. Perhaps you or others on this list could answer this question about Rotax engines: Is it usual to operate the Rotax engine at 5000 to 5200 rpm in cruise? Larger aircraft engines (Lycoming and Continental) specify in their engine specifications that normal cruise is at 65 to 75 percent of rated power. I have not seen the same guideline printed in Rotax specifications. In fact, I have seen no recommendation at all for cruise rpm. The specifications do say red-line is 6800 rpm. Does anyone have a suggestion on a good cruise rpm, considering fuel efficiency and engine wear? ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff.Teismann <JeffTeismann(at)email.msn.com> > > Normal cruise: 55 mph indicated air speed @ 5,000-5,200 rpm. > > Full throttle: 70-75 mph at 6,000 rpm > > Jeff > 30 hrs. in FireFly > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruzan3(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 02, 1999
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:strut camera
Hi guys, I hope to mount my 35mm camera to the strut of my firestar. Will the vibration spoil the pictures? This camera-a Canon AE1 has a fast shutter speed,1000.With 100 speed film will the pictures be blurry? Any input would be appreciated. thanks, John Bruzan FS2 18.6 hr Chicago ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 1999
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10/29/99
> >Jeff, > >Many thanks for your response to my question about Firefly cruise speed and >rpm. This will help us a lot with prop design. > >Perhaps you or others on this list could answer this question about Rotax >engines: Is it usual to operate the Rotax engine at 5000 to 5200 rpm in >cruise? No not IMHO, unless you want to decarb you engine every 50 hours. I would suggest you get an ajustable propeller. Warp drive 1st choice. Ivo, maybe 2nd. Wood props are not ajustable, and not fixable if they are cut wrong. I have two hanging on the wall that don't have 10 hours on them. We use to go through this same thing in the mid 80's when they were not any "good" composite props. Just my opinion. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:strut camera
Date: Nov 02, 1999
John The faster the shutter speed the better. If it were me I would try faster film. This will only be better if your shutter speeds will go over 1000 though. If you could shock mount the camera a bit that will help a lot. There is a difference in a buzzin type of vibration and a pulsating kinda thing. The faster the shutter speed the better the photo in a movement situation. Larger lens openings will allow faster shutter speeds. In photos taken past 30 feet put the focus on infinity and just shoot away. After 30 feet on most lenses focus really doesn't matter as long as it's on infinity. I would be more concerned about the damage to the camera and the light sensing equipment in it. That kinda stuff can be the end for cameras. Gary >From: Bruzan3(at)aol.com >Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: Kolb-List:strut camera >Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 22:47:52 EST > > >Hi guys, >I hope to mount my 35mm camera to the strut of my firestar. Will the >vibration spoil the pictures? This camera-a Canon AE1 has a fast shutter >speed,1000.With 100 speed film will the pictures be blurry? Any input would >be appreciated. >thanks, >John Bruzan FS2 18.6 hr Chicago > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 02, 1999
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10/29/99
In a message dated 11/2/99 11:02:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, possums(at)mindspring.com writes: << No not IMHO, unless you want to decarb you engine every 50 hours. >> Hey, Possum! Are you saying that cruise RPM on a 503DCDI should be higher than 5200? That's where my FS I with 3 blade Warp loves to run. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 1999
From: Richard Bluhm <irena(at)ccis.com>
Subject: Re: Vertical Speed Indicator
GeoR38(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 11/2/99 12:05:14 AM Eastern Standard Time, > kirbyd(at)flash.net writes: > I'm gonna have a VSI in my finished > Mark-3 because there are few things that match the exhilaration of > seeing (and feeling) 2000 fpm UP registering on a VSI while flying along > at 12,000 feet, above these magnificent mountains. > Dennis Kirby A point to ponder... Have you considered the possibility of a Variometer over a VLS????? It's much faster in action. While your VLS is starting to reach toward the limits of your actions, the Vario has already reached it... Most gliders use the Vario for this reason. Regards Doc ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Townsend" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Subject: The H section and rivets
Date: Nov 03, 1999
>From what I remember about that stage of construction, the book gets a little confusing. Larry, The book, plans and tech sheets sent with my kit did not say anything about them changing the H section from aluminum to steel and show the removal of the thick wall 6 inch tube in the H section. Your knowing this does put my mind to rest about it being missing form my steel wing spar H sections. Thanks. I just used 1/8 rivets in the center. The rivet thing still hangs in there. If the rivet is long enough the end ball will remain, strengthening its pull out resistance (I think). I might be worrying about nothing but has any one considered this?? I am not a straight and level flyer so strength is my first concern. Our Best Tim T. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 02, 1999
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Digital Compass...
Hi Listers, I was thumbing through the latest Jameco catalog this evening and happened across a pretty slick instrument that would seem to be a prefect fit for your basic homebuilt project, if you know what I mean... ;-) Precision Navigation Inc. now produces a nifty Electronic Compass Module that, at least according to the write up, seems like it would work well in an aircraft. They even mention installations in "RV"s in the application notes, although I think they are probably referring to the road hogging, stinky diesel burning variety... Anyway, I've listed a couple of URL below that give lots of information on the unit. I'm thinking this could replace either the wet or vertical card compass in a typical VFR installation? Seems like with a GPS backup, you'd have plenty of 'directional navigation'. Would the FAA inspector give the nod? Comments and thought's??? The only bummer is that it doesn't have backlighting, which is just a plain-old poor-design decision in my opinion. Glossy Promo http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifindermain.html Brief Feature List http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifinder.pdf Installation and Application Notes: http://www.precisionnavigation.com/nav_manual101.pdf Oh, and did I mention its only $75? Yeah, unbelievable. Oh, but they do have an aircraft version for $3000... Matt Dralle ----------- Mild Mannered List Admin. by Day, Wild Rivet Pounder by Night! (Well, some nights anyway...) -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 1999
From: Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10/29/99
The following is not my humble opinion- it is a well documented fact: The Rotax engine was NOT designed to run at 5200 rpm. It HAS to run at or near 6000 rpm, and somewhere close to 1100 egt to stay clean, and protect the bearings. At 5200, you are lugging the engine. This is hard on bearings, builds carbon, and is below the power curve. We run our flight school engines at 5900 to 6100 cruise. They always go to TBO without any decarbs, (or repairs of any kind for the most part), and when torn down for a new crank installation, they rerely need anything else. We install new seals and wrist pin bearings, hone the cylinders, and install new rings. Thats it. Slow running engines are on the bench being decarbed all the time, and remember that after the carbon gets bad enough, a seizure is right around the corner. Why cant you just fly faster? Otherwise, get a smaller engine. Bet you dont hear that too often, but you are better off with a smaller engine running at optimum rpm that with a big engine that is lugging. Mike Olympic Ultralights BTDT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike" <quick503(at)aisp.net>
Subject: 6000 RPM
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Mike, can you provide the documentation to support the need to run the engine at 6000 rpm for cruise? Running at 5200 doesn't always mean you are lugging the engine ..... depends on throttle position ( which depends on prop pitch and other factors ). Just curious. Thanks, Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Subject: Re: The H section and rivets
From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Tim and others, This past winter when I was installing the H sections in the main spars, I called the factory about the H section being all 1 thickness as opposed to 2 as described in the book. I was informed that they had gone to a heavier steel tubing for the H frame making the dual thickness for a portion of it unnecessary. L. Ray Baker Lake Butler, Fl Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB writes: > > >From what I remember about that stage of construction, the book > gets a > little confusing. > > Larry, > > The book, plans and tech sheets sent with my kit did not say > anything about > them changing the H section from aluminum to steel and show the > removal > of the thick wall 6 inch tube in the H section. Your knowing this > does put > my > mind to rest about it being missing form my steel wing spar H > sections. > Thanks. I just used 1/8 rivets in the center. The rivet thing still > hangs in > there. > If the rivet is long enough the end ball will remain, strengthening > its pull > out > resistance (I think). I might be worrying about nothing but has any > one > considered this?? I am not a straight and level flyer so strength > is my > first > concern. > > Our Best > > Tim T. > > > > > > -- > > -- > Kolb-List: > > -- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Miller" <jim(at)aircrafttechsupport.com>
Subject: shipping.....
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Yes, Ray, this applies to multiple quart shipments........ Jim & Dondi Miller Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Davis" <csearch(at)nb.net>
Subject: Re: KOLB TRAILER
Date: Nov 03, 1999
----- Original Message ----- From: sk8er <sk8er(at)inreach.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 4:14 AM Subject: Kolb-List: KOLB TRAILER > > >-------------- > >Kolb trailer for sale. Enclosed trailer 24' 11" inside, 8'wide 6' 4" > >tall. Steel frame, wood covered. It has a hydraulic ram with a 12 volt > >motor, that you hookup to your battery. It will push up the front of > >trailer, and lower the rear to the ground, for easy loading and unloading. > >It's licensed,and ready to go. I used it to hanger the Firestar, and is > big > >enough, to walk around and work on the plane. For more info e-mail, or > call > >Mike (559-332-2064) Price $ 2500.00 > >-------------- > Mike--is your trailer big enough to handle a Mark III? thanks, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gerken(at)us.ibm.com
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Subject: Maul type wheel pants
Does anyone have photos of the Maul-type wheel pant that does not fully enclose the wheel but adds a fender above and a fariing behind the wheel? Or does anyone know where on the web I could look for such a picture? I have heard of these and wish to see a picture to consider if they would be appropriate for the MKiii. Thanks. Jim G ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Digital Compass...
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Strange ??? I didn't get anything but 2 blank pages. Anyone else ?? Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> ; ; Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 11:07 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Digital Compass... > > > Hi Listers, > > I was thumbing through the latest Jameco catalog this evening and happened > across a pretty slick instrument that would seem to be a prefect fit for > your basic homebuilt project, if you know what I mean... ;-) Precision > Navigation Inc. now produces a nifty Electronic Compass Module that, at least > according to the write up, seems like it would work well in an aircraft. > They even mention installations in "RV"s in the application notes, although > I think they are probably referring to the road hogging, stinky diesel > burning variety... > > Anyway, I've listed a couple of URL below that give lots of information on > the unit. I'm thinking this could replace either the wet or vertical card > compass in a typical VFR installation? Seems like with a GPS backup, you'd > have plenty of 'directional navigation'. Would the FAA inspector give the > nod? Comments and thought's??? > > The only bummer is that it doesn't have backlighting, which is just a > plain-old poor-design decision in my opinion. > > > Glossy Promo > > http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifindermain.html > > Brief Feature List > > http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifinder.pdf > > Installation and Application Notes: > > http://www.precisionnavigation.com/nav_manual101.pdf > > > Oh, and did I mention its only $75? Yeah, unbelievable. Oh, but they do > have an aircraft version for $3000... > > > Matt Dralle > ----------- > Mild Mannered List Admin. by Day, > Wild Rivet Pounder by Night! > (Well, some nights anyway...) > > > -- > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: The H section and rivets
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Pop rivets are designed for shear loads, not tension. That's why I mentioned the "Q" rivets, that retain the mandrel. Take a look at all the stress points; you'll see what I mean. My feeling, not documented, is that under heavy load the rivets might tend to "walk" a bit in the soft aluminum. That's why I mentioned putting washers under the Q's. Stainless washers, of course. With that in mind, I did put washers under the horizontal tail mounts on the tail boom. The Kolb is designed very tough, I doubt if you'll have to worry about pulling any rivets - short of some really insane G loads - in which case something else will probably break anyway. At one point they took a Kolb, either Ultrastar or Firestar, I'm not sure, and TRIED to break it, by yanking it out of steep dives. It was almost impossible, but he finally managed to break the wing spar. So, they increased the strength of that and related components, and that's what we're getting the benefit of now. Very rugged planes. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: T. Townsend <townsend(at)webound.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 10:08 PM Subject: Kolb-List: The H section and rivets > > > >From what I remember about that stage of construction, the book gets a > little confusing. > > Larry, > > The book, plans and tech sheets sent with my kit did not say anything about > them changing the H section from aluminum to steel and show the removal > of the thick wall 6 inch tube in the H section. Your knowing this does put > my > mind to rest about it being missing form my steel wing spar H sections. > Thanks. I just used 1/8 rivets in the center. The rivet thing still hangs in > there. > If the rivet is long enough the end ball will remain, strengthening its pull > out > resistance (I think). I might be worrying about nothing but has any one > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: OKAY LET'S GET DOWN TO THE FACTS
Fact#1 You are reading this! Fact#2 You probably haven't made your LIST CONTRIBUTION yet! Fact#3 If you have done Fact #1 and Fact #2 still applies then technically you are a FREE-LOADER! Now I know that you probably don't consider yourself a free-loader. Your neighbor probably doesn't even consider you a free-loader. You have always paid for everything you ever received. You are a hard worker. You are even building your own airplane and you paid for every piece of it yourself right? Well there is still a not so small piece that you probably haven't paid for yet. (At least not this year) You know that there is at least one thing that you learned from "The List" that saved you some time, money, or even embarrassment.(Or in some cases may have caused you embarrassment if you didn't check the return address!) Any of these things have value and you should realize the value that the "The List" has for you. Think about it. For once we have a resource that you aren't getting forced to pay a fee for. Matt doesn't force anyone to pay for this service to be a part of it. He TRUSTS us to do our part. What's it worth to you? A buck a month? Two bucks a month? Three bucks a month?? Now's your chance to thank Matt and let him know how much you appreciate what he is doing for us. Look at it like a great interactive aviation magazine that you determine the subscription price of. NOW is the time to get it done. Just click on the URL below and have your credit card ready or write that check and get it in the mail today! After all once it's done you are.... NO LONGER A FREE-LOADER! To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a look at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Well now I have to go clean out all the exploded mice out of my shop.........AL (And you say you never learned anything from the list....) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: The H section and rivets
At one > point they took a Kolb, either Ultrastar or Firestar, I'm not sure, and > TRIED to break it, by yanking it out of steep dives. It was almost > impossible, but he finally managed to break the wing spar. So, they > increased the strength of that and related components, and that's what we're > getting the benefit of now. Very rugged planes. Big Lar. Big Lar and Kolbers: Let me help you out a little. When Dennis Souder was very young and adventurous, he decided to test the Ultrastar, in flight, to destruction. Figured that would give the Kolb R&D Dept a better picture of their product than using sand bags. In this case sand bags probably would not have found the weakness. He did not break the wing spar, but the left wing drag strut. His buns were saved by a Jim Handberry, Hand Deployed Parachute. Lucky for me, I was getting ready to cover the wings of my Ultra Star when they developed and started shipping the drag strut braces. Wanted to clarify that it was not the 5 inch main spar, but the drag strut that failed. I do not know of anyone who has been able to cause a main spar to fail in flight. Some have failed after they tried to fly through utility poles, wind sock towers, trees, buildings, etc. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com>
Subject: Test to destruction
Date: Nov 03, 1999
List, I watched the video of that flight just the other night. It was added at the end of one of the earlier promo videos. I have been told that Kolb stopped adding it to the promo's cause they didn't want anyone to get the impression that the Kolb was capable of aerobatics. It doesn't show the actual destruction but what it does show is really neat to watch. I know that I will never even come close to putting my Firestar through the maneuvers that Dennis S. did on that video. Dennis in MD. ----- Original Message ----- From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 9:40 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: The H section and rivets > > > At one > > point they took a Kolb, either Ultrastar or Firestar, I'm not sure, and > > TRIED to break it, by yanking it out of steep dives. It was almost > > impossible, but he finally managed to break the wing spar. So, they > > increased the strength of that and related components, and that's what we're > > getting the benefit of now. Very rugged planes. Big Lar. > > > Big Lar and Kolbers: > > Let me help you out a little. > > When Dennis Souder was very young and adventurous, he > decided to test the Ultrastar, in flight, to destruction. > Figured that would give the Kolb R&D Dept a better picture > of their product than using sand bags. In this case sand > bags probably would not have found the weakness. He did not > break the wing spar, but the left wing drag strut. His buns > were saved by a Jim Handberry, Hand Deployed Parachute. > Lucky for me, I was getting ready to cover the wings of my > Ultra Star when they developed and started shipping the drag > strut braces. > > Wanted to clarify that it was not the 5 inch main spar, but > the drag strut that failed. I do not know of anyone who has > been able to cause a main spar to fail in flight. Some have > failed after they tried to fly through utility poles, wind > sock towers, trees, buildings, etc. > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N51SK(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/02/99
In a message dated 11/3/99 1:58:55 AM Central Standard Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > Hi guys, > I hope to mount my 35mm camera to the strut of my firestar. Will the > vibration spoil the pictures? This camera-a Canon AE1 has a fast shutter > speed,1000.With 100 speed film will the pictures be blurry? Any input would > be appreciated. > thanks, > John Bruzan FS2 18.6 hr Chicago I don't know abut your struts but mine vibrate pretty good under power. I shoot pictures out of my Mk2 also but I shoot in the conventional manner.....(that is..looking through the viewfinder)with good results. Of course with the (essentially) side mounted stick that I have in the Mk2 all I have to do is hold the stick with my knee while shooting. I think you'll get better pictures if you are looking through the viewfinder when you shoot them. I would, however, love to mount a digital movie camera somewhere so that I can share my flying experience with some of my friends online. Steve Kroll Mk2 76hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:strut camera
Use a wide angle lens--24m or less. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: FireFly Speed
I completed my FireFly in July, 1999 and now have 48 hr. flying on it. Like Jeff, I haven't flown it at top RPM, only on take off. RPM during take off is about 6,300. My speed is the same as his, 50 - 55 at 5,000 - 5,200. I'm swinging the Tennessee two blade 66" prop supplied through Kolb.. I find my must comfortable cruise speed to be around 5,500 to 5,600 RPM. As Jeff mentioned, the air buffeting gets a bit much over that speed. I get great fuel economy with this prop and everyone says it sounds like a GA plane from the ground. Seems they don't recognize me as a typical ultralight sound when approaching. I'm am considering putting vortex strips on the prop also. Any comments on this everone? Wait till you get to fly this beauty. It's everything advertised and more! Terry K. FireFly # 95 Quarryville, PA Bruce McElhoe wrote: > > Fellow Kolbians: > > Can someone tell me the cruise speed and rpm for his Kolb FireFly? > > My partner and I are building a standard FireFly with the Rotax 447, and we > hope to keep it at standard weight, 254 lbs. We are having a 3-blade > propeller carved for us. The prop guy wants to know what our airspeed and > rpm will be at full throttle and low altitude. (We wouldn't expect to > actually cruise at full throttle, but this is the data point he uses for > prop design.) > > We sure would appreciate any real experience you all are getting. Your data > will allow us to get the prop carved right away. > > Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88 > Reedley, California > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Re: 6000 RPM
Mike wrote: > > > Mike, can you provide the documentation to support the need to run the > engine at 6000 rpm for cruise? Running at 5200 doesn't always mean you are > lugging the engine ..... depends on throttle position ( which depends on > prop pitch and other factors ). Just curious. Thanks, Michael > > Ok. I expected to get jumped when I said "documented", and was not dissapointed, so will be a bit more careful about that word. The "well documented" I refer to is over 3000 of my own flying hours, cruising at 5900 to 6100, with a max level full throttle rpm of not more than 6400-6450. I am not alone in this. Most experienced Rotax Repair stations will back me on this. Reg in Surry BC, was THE Rotax GURU up until his stroke a few years ago forced him to retire. He had been racing two strokes on carts since the 50`s, and had forgotten more about 2 strokes than you and I will ever learn. The main thing he tried to get accross to us newbie repair station guys, was that you could run them too slow, and too fast. Each engine has its own sweet-spot, where power/efficiency/reliability come together. He was very adament about this. He rebuilt more engines for ultralighter`s that the two "well known" rebuilders in the USA combined. Over 40 years of Reg`s experience was good enough for this newbie in 1993, and it is still on the mark as far as I, and many other high time U/L pilots are concerned. I am no GURU, (and in fact, I dont like that word, as too many self proclaimed experts with little experience attach it to themselves) but I repair lots of engines that are damaged more by OPERATOR ERROR than those that are just plain worn out. Probably 75 percent of repair/rebuilds we do are from lowtime pilots and people that decided they had a better way of doing it, or were trying to save gas, or be "nice" to their engine. There are very few engine failures that can be attributed to faulty parts produced by Rotax. This will undoubtedly get some people irate, but if you look for the true cause of the failure, it will more often than not be related to 1) Poor maintenance practices 2) Operator inexperience- this catagory includes bad fuel, lousey oil, crummy props, removing the aircleaners to make it "run better", ect. 3) Not running/flying the engine often enough. 4) Not learning from the experiences of the "old guy`s" which is usually free. Ask around to the people that fly for a living, those that rebuild Rotaxes, those that have been doing it for years, and you will get the same story (for the most part). I have nothing to gain(or lose)by passing on my experience, other than maybe keeping a couple people from wasting the potential of their engine. One thing that is a fact: There will ALWAYS be a few people that have to do it their way. They keep us repair centers in business. Mike Brown Olympic Ultralights ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HANGERMAN1(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Subject: Re: 6000 RPM--long
In a message dated 11/3/1999 9:37:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, JRWillJR(at)aol.com writes: << Subj: Re: Kolb-List: 6000 RPM--long Date: 11/3/1999 9:37:05 AM Pacific Standard Time From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com Sender: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com A> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com I tend to agree also that two stroke engines should be run in their top RPM band to prevent carboning and longest life. If you are jetted out for continuous ops at 5200 however it should not be to much worse if any. There is an old saying that two stroke engines like to be run hard--some people take that as a license to justify flogging the little buggers to death. It is true that Rotax recommends a cruise RPM of 5600-6200 and that the ground static should be 6200 and that max level flight RPM should be 6700-6800. If not your engine--cannot make maximum power, will over rev or lugg depending. One indication that you are way over pitched is that the engine will tend to be rich and non responsive to jetting changes--if you do not have to change jets from summer to winter this is an indication you are over propped. Some people like to over prop thinking that they will set a cruise pitch--like over drive in a car--thus not having to run their engines so hard. Fact is if you make, say, 60 MPH at 5400 RPM but your ground static is only 5800 for example you are over propped and are lugging the engine badly. You will not be able to pull max rated power because the engine will not be able to turn the required RPM to do so. It takes the same amount of horsepower to push your airplane at 60 MPH regardless of whether you are pitched for 5400 or 6000 at that 60 MPH level flight. Combustion pressure will be higher with the lower RPM and more damaging--because you are pulling the same power from the engine but at different RPM, more power must then be produced per cycle. People in Rotax circles sometimes equate their power to RPM thus running a lower RPM must be less harmful to the engine--sorry no free ride. The Rotax horsepower chart assumes the engine is propped per their recommendations--when it is then you can get horsepower per RPM off the chart--when you are not pitched per the specs then you cannot. If we were dealing with a four stroke we would install a manifold pressure gauge as a more useful means of setting power--that is why aircraft with cs props require them--power setting is a result of RPM, prop pitch and fuel flow which will be indicated via the manifold pressure. Two-stroke engines unfortunately do not get useful info from a manifold pressure gauge so we must resort to other means--a fuel flow gauge would be indicative but out of place in a Kolb. Best thing to do then is set your engine and prop and aircraft combination up as closely to the recommendations of 6200 ground static and 6800 max level and then set RPM to produce a reasonable airspeed of 55 or 60 what ever that RPM might be not to exceed say 6200 or so continuously and jet out accordingly to get proper EGT and CHT. Your engine will be better off, produce more power and your take off, climb and max speeds will be the optimal compromise. xx xxx xxxxxxx. JR, A&P >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Davis" <csearch(at)nb.net>
Subject: Re: Digital Compass...
Date: Nov 03, 1999
----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 8:56 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Digital Compass... > > Strange ??? I didn't get anything but 2 blank pages. Anyone else ?? > Big Lar. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> > To: ; ; > ; ; > > Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 11:07 PM > Subject: Kolb-List: Digital Compass... > > > > > > > > Hi Listers, > > > > I was thumbing through the latest Jameco catalog this evening and happened > > across a pretty slick instrument that would seem to be a prefect fit for > > your basic homebuilt project, if you know what I mean... ;-) Precision > > Navigation Inc. now produces a nifty Electronic Compass Module that, at > least > > according to the write up, seems like it would work well in an aircraft. > > They even mention installations in "RV"s in the application notes, > although > > I think they are probably referring to the road hogging, stinky diesel > > burning variety... > > > > Anyway, I've listed a couple of URL below that give lots of information on > > the unit. I'm thinking this could replace either the wet or vertical card > > compass in a typical VFR installation? Seems like with a GPS backup, > you'd > > have plenty of 'directional navigation'. Would the FAA inspector give the > > nod? Comments and thought's??? > > > > The only bummer is that it doesn't have backlighting, which is just a > > plain-old poor-design decision in my opinion. > > > > > > Glossy Promo > > > > http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifindermain.html > > > > Brief Feature List > > > > http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifinder.pdf > > > > Installation and Application Notes: > > > > http://www.precisionnavigation.com/nav_manual101.pdf > > > > > > Oh, and did I mention its only $75? Yeah, unbelievable. Oh, but they do > > have an aircraft version for $3000... > > > > > > Matt Dralle > > ----------- > > Mild Mannered List Admin. by Day, > > Wild Rivet Pounder by Night! > > (Well, some nights anyway...) > > > > > > -- > > > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: 6000 RPM--long
> >> Two-stroke engines unfortunately do not get useful info from a manifold > pressure gauge so we must resort to other means--a fuel flow gauge would be > indicative but out of > place in a Kolb. << Listers, I believe it was the late Molt Taylor, who was dealing with this very issue. He was attempting to adjust an inflight adjustable prop on a 2-stroke and make comparisons with other pitch & rpm settings and its effect on fuel consuption. He needed the load to be constant so he used a pressure gauge in the exhaust manifold to maintain it. He used a gauge that read in inches of water. An old airspeed indicator would probably do fine. ...Richard Swiderski ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike" <quick503(at)aisp.net>
Subject: Re: 6000 RPM
Date: Nov 03, 1999
----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 12:10 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 6000 RPM > > Mike wrote: > > > > > > Mike, can you provide the documentation to support the need to run the > > engine at 6000 rpm for cruise? Running at 5200 doesn't always mean you are > > lugging the engine ..... depends on throttle position ( which depends on > > prop pitch and other factors ). Just curious. Thanks, Michael > > > > > Ok. I expected to get jumped when I said "documented", and was not > dissapointed, so will be a bit more careful about that word. Mike, Thanks for the info. I'm also one of those Authorized Rotax Repair Stations ( which can mean a little or a lot ).I do a lot of teaching to the people who bring me engines. It' been a long time since I've found a rotax part that failed wholly because of poor design ( with the exception of the rotary valve seals in the 532/582 ). Poor maintenance and/or lack of information were usually the main cause. I'm sure I don't do nearly the number of engines you do and I can't imagine the good fortune to have had a mentor like your Reg. That's one of the reasons I enjoy the postings on this list. I don't always agree with the answers but if you read long enough you can sift out the answers based on knowledge and experience and those that just sound good Cheers, Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: Prop Variations
TK wrote: > >>>I get great fuel economy with this prop and everyone says it sounds like a GA > plane from the ground. Seems they don't recognize me as a typical ultralight > sound when approaching. I'm am considering putting vortex strips on the prop > also. Any comments on this everone?<<< Terry, I inlayed antivortex tips into my ground adjustable 3 blade (and it was wood, Possum ) Precision Propellor, used .032" 6061-T6, bent it with a 1/4" radius, epoxied it with JB Weld, & also used 3 SS flush-taper-headed bolts. I got a 12% increase in static thrust, 12% increase in rate of climb, 12% icrease in fuel economy & could fly the same cruise speed with about 12 % less rpm, plus it was a lot quieter. I didn't measure the before & after db levels. That was on my UltraStar with a 50" prop. Later, I went to a 60" prop & got an all around 10% increase as did my buddy who put them on his 60" prop on a gyro. ....Richard Swiderski ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Townsend" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Subject: Flight test to failure
Date: Nov 03, 1999
To All, Here is part of the article from Dennis Souder. The second phase of testing consisted of performing basic aerobatic maneuvers. The UltraStar was tested extensively doing hundreds of loops, snap rolls, and spins. Whip stalls were preformed at angles up to and including the vertical (bordering on a tail slide). Typical entry speed for a loop was 70.75 mph (shallow dive with full power) which produced an average G-load of 4 1/4 G's at the bottom when exiting the loop. Thus the limit load of 4 G's was easily substantiated. Not satisfied by just substantiating our claims, we wanted to determine how strong the UltraStar really was, and also to determine what speeds would be required to achieve the higher G-loads. Even having done many loops in the 70-75 mph range, it was a little exciting to achieve the 80 mph + speeds needed to push the G-meter up to 5 G's (the perceived effect of increasing speed is not a linear function). To obtain 5 1/2 G's required a full power dive at approximately a 40 degree angle below the horizon. The 5 1/2 G's was of much longer duration than typical loops performed at 4 to 4 1/2 G's. Incidentally, this 90 mph dive and the 5 1/2 G pullout was an exciting ride even for one accustomed to performing ultralight aerobatics. At this point, we felt that the UltraStar had been well proven to be as strong as anything in its class would ever be required to be. There is just no way that any pilot would ever accidentally get into such a high speed dive situation (to which would have to be added an abrupt pull out) to get into such a high G-loading situation. But it was decided to do one more test to 95 mph. An abrupt and sustained pullout at this speed resulted in structural failure of the left wing; the drag strut failed and the wing folded back alongside the fuselage. The parachute was deployed, and the plane and pilot were brought down safely. A very gentle (but exciting) landing in a tree resulted in minimal additional damage to the airplane. The only in-flight damage to the UltraStar was the left wing which had remained neatly in its folded position during the decent into the tree. The left wing has since been replaced and the Ultrastar is once more happily looping and rolling its way through the sky. The failure showed that the weakest link in the wing to be the drag strut. In the last high G maneuver it appears that the wing rib in the area of the center of the drag strut deformed slightly, enough to push the drag strut out of column, which resulted in a buckling of the drag strut. A steel brace has sense been added to reinforce the wing rib in this area, (This is now included as standard in the UltraStar, FireStar and TwinStar), Since the UltraStar had proven to be as strong as necessary, we did not feel it necessary to test beyond that point to see what additional strength the reinforcement would provide. Hope you enjoyed Our Best Tim T. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Townsend" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Subject: Re: The H section and rivets
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Thanks for your reply, you have been a great help. Our Best Tim T. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 8:13 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: The H section and rivets > > Pop rivets are designed for shear loads, not tension. That's why I > mentioned the "Q" rivets, that retain the mandrel. Take a look at all the > stress points; you'll see what I mean. My feeling, not documented, is that > under heavy load the rivets might tend to "walk" a bit in the soft aluminum. > That's why I mentioned putting washers under the Q's. Stainless washers, of > course. With that in mind, I did put washers under the horizontal tail > mounts on the tail boom. The Kolb is designed very tough, I doubt if you'll > have to worry about pulling any rivets - short of some really insane G > loads - in which case something else will probably break anyway. At one > point they took a Kolb, either Ultrastar or Firestar, I'm not sure, and > TRIED to break it, by yanking it out of steep dives. It was almost > impossible, but he finally managed to break the wing spar. So, they > increased the strength of that and related components, and that's what we're > getting the benefit of now. Very rugged planes. Big Lar. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: T. Townsend <townsend(at)webound.com> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 10:08 PM > Subject: Kolb-List: The H section and rivets > > > > > > > > > >From what I remember about that stage of construction, the book gets a > > little confusing. > > > > Larry, > > > > The book, plans and tech sheets sent with my kit did not say anything > about > > them changing the H section from aluminum to steel and show the removal > > of the thick wall 6 inch tube in the H section. Your knowing this does put > > my > > mind to rest about it being missing form my steel wing spar H sections. > > Thanks. I just used 1/8 rivets in the center. The rivet thing still hangs > in > > there. > > If the rivet is long enough the end ball will remain, strengthening its > pull > > out > > resistance (I think). I might be worrying about nothing but has any one > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Subject: Re: Vertical Speed Indicator
In a message dated 11/3/99 12:14:46 AM Eastern Standard Time, irena(at)ccis.com writes: << GeoR38(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 11/2/99 12:05:14 AM Eastern Standard Time, > kirbyd(at)flash.net writes: > I'm gonna have a VSI in my finished > Mark-3 because there are few things that match the exhilaration of > seeing (and feeling) 2000 fpm UP registering on a VSI while flying along > at 12,000 feet, above these magnificent mountains. > Dennis Kirby A point to ponder... Have you considered the possibility of a Variometer over a VLS????? It's much faster in action. While your VLS is starting to reach toward the limits of your actions, the Vario has already reached it... Most gliders use the Vario for this reason. Regards Doc >> thanks Doc, I didn't even know the difference...variometer is the only instrument I ever heard of and is what I'll probably get anyway as a result of my glider days and ....yes....they were very responsive! ............ GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Flight test to failure
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Sorry about that. I thought it was the spar that had failed. Red-Faced Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: T. Townsend <townsend(at)webound.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 5:29 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Flight test to failure > > To All, > > Here is part of the article from Dennis Souder. > > At this point, we felt that the UltraStar had been well proven to be as > strong as anything in its class would ever be required to be. There is just > no way that any pilot would ever accidentally get into such a high speed > dive situation (to which would have to be added an abrupt pull out) to get > into such a high G-loading situation. But it was decided to do one more > test to 95 mph. An abrupt and sustained pullout at this speed resulted in > structural failure of the left wing; the drag strut failed and the wing > folded back alongside the fuselage. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Townsend" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Subject: Re: The H section and rivets
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Thanks everyone, I am now confident that my wings are very strong and I am building it right. Our Best Tim T. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 6:48 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: The H section and rivets > > Tim and others, > > This past winter when I was installing the H sections in the main spars, > I called the factory about the H section being all 1 thickness as opposed > to 2 as described in the book. I was informed that they had gone to a > heavier steel tubing for the H frame making the dual thickness for a > portion of it unnecessary. > > L. Ray Baker > Lake Butler, Fl > Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB > > > writes: > > > > >From what I remember about that stage of construction, the book > > gets a > > little confusing. > > > > Larry, > > > > The book, plans and tech sheets sent with my kit did not say > > anything about > > them changing the H section from aluminum to steel and show the > > removal > > of the thick wall 6 inch tube in the H section. Your knowing this > > does put > > my > > mind to rest about it being missing form my steel wing spar H > > sections. > > Thanks. I just used 1/8 rivets in the center. The rivet thing still > > hangs in > > there. > > If the rivet is long enough the end ball will remain, strengthening > > its pull > > out > > resistance (I think). I might be worrying about nothing but has any > > one > > considered this?? I am not a straight and level flyer so strength > > is my > > first > > concern. > > > > Our Best > > > > Tim T. > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > -- > > Kolb-List: > > > > > -- > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Subject: mounted camera
I am a photojournalist and do a lot of aviation photography besides flying. I have mounted cameras on all kinds of airplanes, many ultralights and many others. I have mounted it on all of my airplanes and have some wonderful photos, some things about mounting the camera I have learned. I always mount the camera with either a bogen multi clamp, or a home made mount using brackets I have made. The mount on the cameras are a regular 1/4 -20 thread so making a mount is easy, I always also undo the camera strap and rap it around some part of the airplane and reattach it to the camera, use lots of duct tape to tape the strap down also to keep it from moving in the wind and causing the wind to turn the camera. Triggering the camera is with a hard line, (ie the new cameras that use a switch instead of an old cable release, or I use a radio trigger. The hard line is better, one less thing hanging in the wind. The lens choice is according to where the camera is mounted, ie how far out on the wing and how wide of a lens is needed to get the framing you want. I usually use a 14mm which on Firestar 2 mounted near the end of the strut makes a photo showing all the nose and tail. Exposure can be set to automatic, or usually I set it manually, exposing for a sunny photo and I make sure to fly so the sun illuminates my face, cockpit, etc. I also find that a steep turn banked towards the ground makes more of an interesting photo than blue skies. Unless you are on top of broken clouds, etc., or upside down in some of my aerobatic photos. 2 more things, use gaffers tape (expensive duct tape) and tape down the aperture ring, and focus ring. Another thing I have found is that on fast aircraft, you must completely tape up the camera to keep the wind/pressures from the camera. The pressure differences on the back film plane is what makes the photos not sharp, not the vibration. I usually shoot at 500/th second which will stop everything fine. I once did a shot on a Pitts, and all the images where he was pulling g's were out of focus. The pressure caused the back of the camera and film plane to move slightly, causing all the photos to be blurry, I have lived and learned. I have a lot of these photo I would be glad to email if anybody is interested to take a peek. Lots of my Ultralights including my firestar 2. Sorry for rambling, but I love this kind of photography and have done this set up for most of my friends so they have awesome photos for their walls. tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: WD40 and Powder Coating
My gosh, look for Kolbs falling out of the air. Haven't seem any yet. Chrome Moly been used in airplanes for a long time and for many years was only gas welded which means it gets very hot. Some manufacturers (certified airplane) even heat treat their engine mounts to reduce stress caused from welding and cooling. This means getting it dull red hot and cooling it down slowly. I think it will take the temps it would be exposed to in the powder coating process. Only problem I see with power coating is if you prang it and have to weld on it you have to burn off the existing powder coating the in area being welded. Since the plane may not be totally disassembled, you would have to live with a good epoxy primer and top coating. So just don't prang it. Our FireFly has been running with a good coat of Stits epoxy primer. Only problem with it is it changes to a cream color over time. Put a top coat over it. Aggressive sand blasting is likely to cause more damage. Make sure your coater understands that the tubing is very thin wall and not to use excessively coarse grit. Some of these palaces are used to doing thick automotive cages and headers and can get carried away. So for it, jerryb I like the powder coating but Kolb price is just that pricey. Check for local source. > >Hello Gang: > Got a question I would like to know if any of you have experienced. I >plan on having my fuselage cage and all other metal parts powdered coated at >a local shop. I have been bead blasting the small metal parts and then >spraying them with wd40 to prevent them from rusting till I get ready to >carry them to the shop. I thought (first mistake) that the solution that the >parts are dipped in before powder coating would clean them well enough. I >have since talked to the shop owner about this and he says that the wd40 >won't come off properly in the dipping stage. Does anyone know what the best >way to clean wd40 off is. I tried lacquer thinner and it seems to work, but >you really can't tell for sure. Any suggestions would be appreciated. > One other thing I would like to know is about powder coating the >fuselage tube. I know Kolb powder coats them from the factory but, the guy >that owns M-Squared ultralights says that the heating stage of the powder >coating process (approx 400 degrees) will kill the strength of the tube. >What gives? Is he wrong or is there different ways to powder coat? > > >Thanks, >John Cooley >building FS II > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Re: 6000 RPM
Hey Mike. Yes, Reg was a crusty ol fart, but dang he was good with a two stroke. He used to say the only time he ever screwed up on a rebuild was when I took my first 582 to him and he broke his hard and fast rule of never letting the customer watch or help during a "for real rebuild", and let me watch(and help). Well, he (and I)forgot to tourque the flywheel, and the proverbial poop hit the fan when I started it up. Actually, I dont do too many rebuilds anymore. There just isnt much money in it, and I get pissed when they take em out and run them out of oil or water. Just part of the game I know, but I guess I`m getting old. Too many years in the Coast Guard trying to do PERFECT work, and now people look at you funny and say yer being anal because perfect work isnt important in the 90`s. Do you ever wonder about the guy that brags about having 27 forced landings without a bent plane, then you ask him how many hours he has flown, and he says something like ... "25"!!!!!! ????? OK, back to lurk. Mike do mot archive > > Mike wrote: > > > > > > > > > Mike, can you provide the documentation to support the need to run the > > > engine at 6000 rpm for cruise? Running at 5200 doesn't always mean you > are > > > lugging the engine ..... depends on throttle position ( which depends on > > > prop pitch and other factors ). Just curious. Thanks, Michael > > > > > > > > Ok. I expected to get jumped when I said "documented", and was not > > dissapointed, so will be a bit more careful about that word. > > Mike, Thanks for the info. I'm also one of those Authorized Rotax Repair > Stations ( which can mean a little or a lot ).I do a lot of teaching to the > people who bring me engines. It' been a long time since I've found a rotax > part that failed wholly because of poor design ( with the exception of the > rotary valve seals in the 532/582 ). Poor maintenance and/or lack of > information were usually the main cause. I'm sure I don't do nearly the > number of engines you do and I can't imagine the good fortune to have had a > mentor like your Reg. That's one of the reasons I enjoy the postings on > this list. I don't always agree with the answers but if you read long enough > you can sift out the answers based on knowledge and experience and those > that just sound good Cheers, Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Hazardous shipping....
Is there any extra precautions you have to take spraying areothane's? I have heard that anything with "thane" on the end you better have air supply. The story goes after your done your get a beer and sit down and watch the game on TV and your gone before the games over. > >If we send you quarts or less of anything, (as we are certified to do) >there is no hazardous shipping cost imposed by UPS. > >The reason builders choose Polytone for their metal pieces is to get an >exact color and shine match with the fabric. If you want a harder finish, >impervious to fuels, etc, you should use Aerothane. And if you don't want >the "wet look", it can be flattened. > > >Thanx, >Jim & Dondi Miller >Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. >Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors >(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 >Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com >E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Vertical Speed Indicator
We got a 2-1/4" electric variometer in our FireFly and our Hawk. I love it. The variometer is the same thing they use in gliders and it very sensitive. Were running 1K/ft/Min. Sold my Sky Sports - Cost varies from $240-260. There are available for connection to 12 volt electrical system or equipped with a 9-volt battery holder for those that don't have electrical systems like gliders. jerryb > >In a message dated 11/2/99 12:05:14 AM Eastern Standard Time, >kirbyd(at)flash.net writes: > ><< I'd sometimes see a 2000 fpm rate > of climb ... while already above 11,000 feet! In a TriPacer! So the > point of this bit of rambling is, I'm gonna have a VSI in my finished > Mark-3 because there are few things that match the exhilaration of > seeing (and feeling) 2000 fpm UP registering on a VSI while flying along > at 12,000 feet, above these magnificent mountains. > Dennis Kirby > Mark-3, s/n 300, 75% finished (and itchin' to finish up!) > Cedar Crest, NM > >> >Dennis, I know the power of 1000'/min but 2000.....Whew.....far out....I >learned soaring in Las Cruzes and El paso in the early 80's and love it...so >I relate...and try to become a part of a rising gaggle whenever the >opportunity.....arises! ..................... GeoR38 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Digital Compass...
There was one written up a while back that some one was using in plane and found to be very accurate and dependable. They were having problems with magnetic interference with a whiskey compass and tried it as a last resort. Cost was reasonable and worked well. Anybody happen to see the write up and recall what it was in. jerryb > > >Hi Listers, > >I was thumbing through the latest Jameco catalog this evening and happened >across a pretty slick instrument that would seem to be a prefect fit for >your basic homebuilt project, if you know what I mean... ;-) Precision >Navigation Inc. now produces a nifty Electronic Compass Module that, at least >according to the write up, seems like it would work well in an aircraft. >They even mention installations in "RV"s in the application notes, although >I think they are probably referring to the road hogging, stinky diesel >burning variety... > >Anyway, I've listed a couple of URL below that give lots of information on >the unit. I'm thinking this could replace either the wet or vertical card >compass in a typical VFR installation? Seems like with a GPS backup, you'd >have plenty of 'directional navigation'. Would the FAA inspector give the >nod? Comments and thought's??? > >The only bummer is that it doesn't have backlighting, which is just a >plain-old poor-design decision in my opinion. > > >Glossy Promo > > http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifindermain.html > >Brief Feature List > > http://www.precisionnavigation.com/navifinder.pdf > >Installation and Application Notes: > > http://www.precisionnavigation.com/nav_manual101.pdf > > >Oh, and did I mention its only $75? Yeah, unbelievable. Oh, but they do >have an aircraft version for $3000... > > >Matt Dralle >----------- >Mild Mannered List Admin. by Day, >Wild Rivet Pounder by Night! >(Well, some nights anyway...) > > >-- > >Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 >925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email >http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Townsend" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Subject: Re: 6000 RPM
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Mike, Don't be to hard on your self, after all, your kind is what made this sport what it is to day. I will have another beer with you and go back to lurk also. Our Best Tim T. ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 11:23 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 6000 RPM > > Hey Mike. > Yes, Reg was a crusty ol fart, but dang he was good with a two stroke. > He used to say the only time he ever screwed up on a rebuild was when I > took my first 582 to him and he broke his hard and fast rule of never > letting the customer watch or help during a "for real rebuild", and let > me watch(and help). Well, he (and I)forgot to tourque the flywheel, and > the proverbial poop hit the fan when I started it up. > Actually, I dont do too many rebuilds anymore. There just isnt much > money in it, and I get pissed when they take em out and run them out of > oil or water. Just part of the game I know, but I guess I`m getting > old. Too many years in the Coast Guard trying to do PERFECT work, and > now people look at you funny and say yer being anal because perfect work > isnt important in the 90`s. > Do you ever wonder about the guy that brags about having 27 forced > landings without a bent plane, then you ask him how many hours he has > flown, and he says something like ... "25"!!!!!! ????? > OK, back to lurk. > Mike > do mot archive > > > > Mike wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike, can you provide the documentation to support the need to run the > > > > engine at 6000 rpm for cruise? Running at 5200 doesn't always mean you > > are > > > > lugging the engine ..... depends on throttle position ( which depends on > > > > prop pitch and other factors ). Just curious. Thanks, Michael > > > > > > > > > > > Ok. I expected to get jumped when I said "documented", and was not > > > dissapointed, so will be a bit more careful about that word. > > > > Mike, Thanks for the info. I'm also one of those Authorized Rotax Repair > > Stations ( which can mean a little or a lot ).I do a lot of teaching to the > > people who bring me engines. It' been a long time since I've found a rotax > > part that failed wholly because of poor design ( with the exception of the > > rotary valve seals in the 532/582 ). Poor maintenance and/or lack of > > information were usually the main cause. I'm sure I don't do nearly the > > number of engines you do and I can't imagine the good fortune to have had a > > mentor like your Reg. That's one of the reasons I enjoy the postings on > > this list. I don't always agree with the answers but if you read long enough > > you can sift out the answers based on knowledge and experience and those > > that just sound good Cheers, Michael > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 1999
From: Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Re: WD40 and Powder Coating
Hey Jerry, The subject we were warning about the temps involved in powder coating was the tail tube, not the cage. The gage can handle all the heat of powder coating no problemo`. It`s the tail tube that should not be put to heat. That would be risky at best. Powder coating is starting to get some hard looks from airplane manufacturers as it is hard, and does not have much flex to it, so it can crack with the flexing of the airframe, letting corrosion in at the weld joints where it flexes(and where you DONT want corrosion). Something to consider. Any airframes I do from now on will be painted, and even that paint will have a touch of flexative in it. It also helps prevent nicks and chips a bit better than hard paint. Mike Jerry Bidle wrote: > > > My gosh, look for Kolbs falling out of the air. Haven't seem any yet. > Chrome Moly been used in airplanes for a long time and for many years was > only gas welded which means it gets very hot. Some manufacturers > (certified airplane) even heat treat their engine mounts to reduce stress > caused from welding and cooling. This means getting it dull red hot and > cooling it down slowly. I think it will take the temps it would be exposed > to in the powder coating process. > > Only problem I see with power coating is if you prang it and have to weld > on it you have to burn off the existing powder coating the in area being > welded. Since the plane may not be totally disassembled, you would have to > live with a good epoxy primer and top coating. So just don't prang it. > Our FireFly has been running with a good coat of Stits epoxy primer. Only > problem with it is it changes to a cream color over time. Put a top coat > over it. > > Aggressive sand blasting is likely to cause more damage. Make sure your > coater understands that the tubing is very thin wall and not to use > excessively coarse grit. Some of these palaces are used to doing thick > automotive cages and headers and can get carried away. > > So for it, > jerryb > > I like the powder coating but Kolb price is just that pricey. Check for > local source. > > > > >Hello Gang: > > Got a question I would like to know if any of you have experienced. I > >plan on having my fuselage cage and all other metal parts powdered coated at > >a local shop. I have been bead blasting the small metal parts and then > >spraying them with wd40 to prevent them from rusting till I get ready to > >carry them to the shop. I thought (first mistake) that the solution that the > >parts are dipped in before powder coating would clean them well enough. I > >have since talked to the shop owner about this and he says that the wd40 > >won't come off properly in the dipping stage. Does anyone know what the best > >way to clean wd40 off is. I tried lacquer thinner and it seems to work, but > >you really can't tell for sure. Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > One other thing I would like to know is about powder coating the > >fuselage tube. I know Kolb powder coats them from the factory but, the guy > >that owns M-Squared ultralights says that the heating stage of the powder > >coating process (approx 400 degrees) will kill the strength of the tube. > >What gives? Is he wrong or is there different ways to powder coat? > > > > > >Thanks, > >John Cooley > >building FS II > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Subject: Re: mounted camera
Tim--I would like to see some of your pics. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike" <quick503(at)aisp.net>
Subject: Stuff
Date: Nov 04, 1999
I have a bunch of stuff I need to get rid of. E-mail me if you need more info. Sky-West David 60 hp 4-stroke engine Several 3-blade Warp Drive props Several 3-blade Powerfin props Rotax 532 with B drive VSI Cheers, Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Miller" <jim(at)aircrafttechsupport.com>
Subject: Re: Hazardous shipping....
Date: Nov 04, 1999
You're absolutely right about the fresh air breathing source!! PS: baseball or soccer? Jim & Dondi Miller Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 1999 12:38 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hazardous shipping.... > Is there any extra precautions you have to take spraying areothane's? I > have heard that anything with "thane" on the end you better have air > supply. The story goes after your done your get a beer and sit down and > watch the game on TV and your gone before the games over. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Subject: Kolb: Hard Starting
I recently experienced another spell of hard starting on my FireFly's 447 and as previously reported used a quick shot of starter fluid. I knew this stuff was volatile and had no lubrication so I was careful to use a minimal amount. The engine started and ran great but this was a test, not something I would do as a standard procedure. After reviewing the possibilities I concluded that my trouble might be the result of using old fuel. I have always kept a spare 5 gallons on hand, (sitting in a steel building, under the broiling Florida summer sun) while busy with other obligations. The fuel already in the tank also sat for a week or so before I used it. I now realize that keeping gas on hand during periods of infrequent flying amounts to aging (degrading) it before use. The mix in the tank was at least a month old, maybe two. I drained every drop out of the tank, line and carb bowl and refilled with fresh-from-the-pump 92 octane. I was astonished when she started on the first pull and has done so on a dozen later occassions. Take heed fellow bird-men, no more old fuel in my machine!! Duane the plane in Tallahassee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron C Reece" <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com>
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Kolb: Hard Starting
MitchMnD(at)aol.com on 11/04/99 09:32:30 AM Please respond to kolb-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb: Hard Starting I was wondering if one used an additive ( can't recall a name for it, but used to keep fuel good over long periods of time) when storing fuel if that would keep fuel in a good enough condition for flying? Ron Reece Tail done L. Wing done >I recently experienced another spell of hard starting on my FireFly's 447 and >as previously reported used a quick shot of starter fluid. >Take heed fellow bird-men, no more old fuel in my machine!! Duane the plane in >Tallahassee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Painting Fuselage
Mornin Kolbers: I always paint fuselage. I use Stitts Aerothane. The aerothane goes on after tube seal inside the tubes, prep with phosphoric acid etch and Scotch Brite Pads, 2 part epoxy primer, and finally aerothane. I try to use light colored primer to avoid changing the final color of the aerothane. Lot of work but had done a good job over the years. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Subject: Fuel & galvanized pipe
Hi Gang, I am in the process of rigging a fuel caddy to fuel my Mk-3. To facilitate connection of a Goldenrod filter I had to use a two galvanized reducers and couplers. Total length of the galvanized parts is around 8 inches. The rest of the parts are plastic and brass and the nozzle is aluminum. Is there any problem with using galvanized material with gasoline? Thanks Bill George Mk-3 582 Powerfin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Hale" <AccessToData(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10/29/99
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Mike Brown, if you run your engine at these rpm's, doesn't fuel consumption go way up? I have a Firestar I with a 447. if I run at 5000 rpm, I burn right around 3 gph. If I go above that then I start to burn considerably more fuel. Brian Hale Firestar I Sacramento, CA. -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 11:24 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10/29/99 We run our flight school engines at 5900 to 6100 cruise. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org>
Subject: Painting Fuselage
Date: Nov 04, 1999
For my benefit, how do you get tube seal inside the tubes? Do you drill a tiny pin hole? Also, does this acid etch have a brand name that paint stores might recognize? > The aerothane goes on after tube seal inside the tubes, prep with phosphoric acid etch and Scotch Brite Pads, 2 part epoxy primer, and finally aerothane. I try to use light> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)tcac.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb: Hard Starting
Date: Nov 04, 1999
----- Original Message ----- From: Ron C Reece <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com> > > I was wondering if one used an additive ( can't recall a name for it, but used > to keep fuel good over long periods of time) when storing fuel if that would > keep fuel in a good enough condition for flying? > > Ron Reece > Tail done > L. Wing done There is a material called Stabil (spelling) which I believe can be purchased at WalMart and such places that will stabilize the fuel for extended storage. I have had no experience with it, but have been told by various mechanic types that it works well in lawn mowers, chainsaws, weed trimmers, etc. Tom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Darren L Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org>
Subject: Re: Camera mounting
Date: Nov 03, 1999
Subject: Re: Kolb-List:strut camera Hi guys, I hope to mount my 35mm camera to the strut of my firestar. Will the vibration spoil the pictures? This camera-a Canon AE1 has a fast shutter speed,1000.With 100 speed film will the pictures be blurry? Any input would be appreciated. thanks,<<<<<<<<<< John, I would be very careful mounting a delicate piece of equipment on a vibrating airframe. I rubber mounted a RCA 8mm camcorder to the wing fold fitting on my right wing, flew it for 10-15 min., AND, it never was the same again!! (Funny psychedelic colors !!) Darren Smalec, FS1,104or so hrs., on 3rd engine, 2nd camcorder ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Painting Fuselage
"Bruce E. Harrison" wrote: > For my benefit, how do you get tube seal inside the tubes? Do you drill a > tiny pin hole? Also, does this acid etch have a brand name that paint stores > might recognize? Hi Bruce and Gang: I use 1/8 hole and closed end alum pop rivets. I get my supply of large syringes and needles from my Vet. Has the CCs marked on the syringe to make dosage easier. Many times tube seal can be injected while building, using a hole meant for something else other than tube seal. Naval jelly rust remover is a form of phosphoric acid. However, I like to use full strength phosphoric acid cut in half with tap water. Jim and Dondi Miller have it bottled up with the Poly Fiber logo, I am sure. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "sk8er" <sk8er(at)inreach.com>
Subject: Re: KOLB TRAILER
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Bill, I think that the trailer is big enough, the only question i would have, would be the the lenth of the plane, when it is folded. Inside the trailer is 24' 10". Check the lenth, and get back to me. Mike ---------- > From: Bill Davis <csearch(at)nb.net> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: KOLB TRAILER > Date: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 5:42 AM > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: sk8er <sk8er(at)inreach.com> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 4:14 AM > Subject: Kolb-List: KOLB TRAILER > > > > > > >-------------- > > >Kolb trailer for sale. Enclosed trailer 24' 11" inside, 8'wide 6' 4" > > >tall. Steel frame, wood covered. It has a hydraulic ram with a 12 volt > > >motor, that you hookup to your battery. It will push up the front of > > >trailer, and lower the rear to the ground, for easy loading and > unloading. > > >It's licensed,and ready to go. I used it to hanger the Firestar, and is > > big > > >enough, to walk around and work on the plane. For more info e-mail, or > > call > > >Mike (559-332-2064) Price $ 2500.00 > > >-------------- > > > > Mike--is your trailer big enough to handle a Mark III? > > thanks, > > Bill > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Camera mounting
In a message dated 11/4/99 1:07:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, smald(at)shianet.org writes: << Darren Smalec, FS1,104or so hrs., on 3rd engine, 2nd camcorder >> Hey, Darren! How come 3 engines in only 104 hrs.? Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Subject: Re: Painting Fuselage
Bruce E. Harrison wrote: > > > For my benefit, how do you get tube seal inside the tubes? Do you drill a > tiny pin hole? Also, does this acid etch have a brand name that paint stores > might recognize? > > > The > aerothane goes on after tube seal inside the tubes, prep > with phosphoric acid etch and Scotch Brite Pads, 2 part > epoxy primer, and finally aerothane. I try to use light> The procedure of phosphoric acid, followed by chromic acid, followed by epoxy primer and finish color is for aluminum, and insures good adhesion to the coatings. The use of Tube seal was originally developed for welded 4130 tube fuselages. It's nature is that it will wick through pinholes in the welds and congel on prolonged contact with the air and seal the holes, thereby preventing more moisture laden air from entering. It is installed by drilling 1/8" holes in each independent tube and inserting the tube seal via a hypodermic syrenge (usually forget the needle as it is too small for such a viscous liquid). Hole is sealed by use of closed end pop rivets. gil leiter MAPLEWOOD, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 1999
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:strut camera
I'm getting into this a little late, but here are some of my thoughts anyway... I have found the best luck in just holding the camera. There are disadvantages, mostly related to extra care needed to also fly safely while taking pictures, but it is do-able. One of the tricks is to get the camera ready before the shot, and also, you don't have to hold the camera right up to your eye for the shot. Get good at it before taking pictures down low, and even then, especially then, Be Careful! Almost an aside, I like a 75-150mm zoom and asa 200 film. Nice additions would be autofocus and motor-drive, but I am emotionally and financially stuck on my 1972 Olympus OM-1. I have experienced getting light leaks in my camera from vibration, simply by setting it down in the cockpit for part of a flight, so mounting it to the airframe without good shock absorption would probably present similar problems, if not also damage to the camera over time. I have had interests and minor experience in mounting a video camera to the airframe. This again was nixed by vibration, and in this case, the vibration prevented the camera auto-focus from locking on an image. Boy would it be nice to have a helmet-cam like the parachutists. Just think of the gun footage that would provide. I tried a side mount to my helmet but that stunk too -- just too darned awkward to have the side weight, and I didn't want to add another 3 lbs to the other side to counter balance; picture helmet squashed down on my head too far to see where I'm going. :) But I digress. My main point is that it is nice to hold the camera simply so you can point it at whatever, and your body is a good shock absorber for it. A helmet mount would be even better as it frees your hands, but there's that durn wing overhead and removing that ain't so good for pictures or flying. -Ben Ransom PS: If you are going to hold the camera, remember your priorities. PPS: Many of my flying pics are at: http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ===== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 1999
From: Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb: Hard Starting
"Thomas L. King" wrote: > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Ron C Reece <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com> > > > > I was wondering if one used an additive ( can't recall a name for it, but used > > to keep fuel good over long periods of time) when storing fuel if that would > > keep fuel in a good enough condition for flying? > > > > Ron Reece > > Tail done > > L. Wing done > > There is a material called Stabil (spelling) which I believe can be > purchased at WalMart and such places that will stabilize the fuel for > extended storage. I have had no experience with it, but have been told > by various mechanic types that it works well in lawn mowers, chainsaws, > weed trimmers, etc. > > Tom > I used to have frequent hard starting due to old fuel, especially in the winter months when they add "stuff" to it. Sometimes it would be bad in less than a month. I don't remember having a hard start problem due to fuel since I switched to avgas about 18 months ago. More expensive and you have to check your plugs more frequently due to lead deposits, but it sure saves on the arm, not too mention the headaches when the *!#@$ thing just will not start!! -- **************************************************** * Bill Weber * Thunder's just the noise * * Simi Valley, CA * Lightning does the work * **************************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jwillia9(at)farmerstel.com
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Subject: Kolb-list: trim question
Hello kolb flyers and builders I've bought a firestar 11 the guy I bought it from weight 150 and had to add some nose weight to get the C.G. right, but you had to hold some back pressure on the stick. Over time he took the weight out still had to hold some back pressure. Now here's where I come in I weight 240 now I'm wanting to get the plane to trim out a little better I'm holding a lot of back pressure and it not just at full power at 5000 rpm if you let the stick go its like going over the hill on a roller coaster.I know the first thing to do is a weight and balance but if Im in range can I move the front of the tail down a little or I'm I just going to have to put a trim tap on it .One more thing how much up do you need in the elevator. Any help would be apperciate. George ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 1999
From: Evertt Dunlap <dunlapet(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: hard starting - comments by an observer
I don't mean to butt-in, but since you're already using avblend (100LL, I suppose), I thought I might mention something to reduce lead-fouling problems. Personally, I'd remain clear of WalMart Stuff .... Unless it carries National Backing of well qualified source. I've seen motor oil and engine fuel (gasoline) blended at various refineries and -enven though "they try", the follow-up QualityControl may be "not risking your life on ....." I have been putting AVBLEND in my crankcase (TCM 0-200 in a C-150) for years - I fly about 100 hours/year and have never had any lead deposits problems through the last three annuals. This is impressive because the 0-200 is a "cool" running engine (i.e., engine doesn't get hot enough to keep lead vapor from condensing on it's way down the bore (during combustion) and out the pipes (during exhaust) .... I know, I know, you're on a 2-stroke, but keep reading - at least for a little while, ...... (2) maybe you could locate some 80LL instead of 100LL ... the lead content would be much less. (3) there is an additive "PRIEST" -I believe that is added in oz. quantities to the fuel tanks of a piper driver I know, and he (as usual ... ) swears by it ... I rode to FnS '98 and AvVent'99 and engine never missed a beat. some thoughts, hope you don't think I'm a butt-in-sky, and maybe you appreciate me expressing my thoughts. ps, i'm retired from raytheon, engineering & construction, Phila area --- Bill Weber wrote: > > > "Thomas L. King" wrote: > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Ron C Reece <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com> > > > > > > I was wondering if one used an additive ( can't > recall a name for it, but used > > > to keep fuel good over long periods of time) > when storing fuel if that would > > > keep fuel in a good enough condition for flying? > > > > > > Ron Reece > > > Tail done > > > L. Wing done > > > > There is a material called Stabil (spelling) which > I believe can be > > purchased at WalMart and such places that will > stabilize the fuel for > > extended storage. I have had no experience with > it, but have been told > > by various mechanic types that it works well in > lawn mowers, chainsaws, > > weed trimmers, etc. > > > > Tom > > > > I used to have frequent hard starting due to old > fuel, especially in the > winter months when they add "stuff" to it. Sometimes > it would be bad in > less than a month. I don't remember having a hard > start problem due to > fuel since I switched to avgas about 18 months ago. > More expensive and > you have to check your plugs more frequently due to > lead deposits, but > it sure saves on the arm, not too mention the > headaches when the *!#@$ > thing just will not start!! > > -- > **************************************************** > * Bill Weber * Thunder's just the noise * > * Simi Valley, CA * Lightning does the work * > **************************************************** > > > > > of fine Aircraft > Avionics, and by the generous Contributions of > List members. > > > Matronics: > http://www.matronics.com > Kolb-List: > Archive Search Engine: > http://www.matronics.com/search > Archive Browsing: > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/other > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:strut camera
Ben Good to know you are still lurking. Hope you are making progress on getting your bird in the air again. The Kolb is an excellent aerial platform. There was a piece on the Discovery Wings channel about the fellow in New Mexico that used a no-fairing Mk-2 to shoot spectacular scenics. He did use the gyro stabilizer though and a Pentax 67. I have obtained some nice aerials from my MK-3, some with 35 and some with a high(er) resolution digital. If you don't need anything more that 9X prints the digitals are actually pretty good. I have done professional video work in the past and decided I would check the Sony VX-1000 as a hand held in smooth air. The video is acceptable, but you really need the gyro stab for that kind of work. I do have a Pentax 67 and plan to use it the next time winds, light, etc., are perfect. My little web page has some shots that were done with a handheld digital still camera. Bill George's Kolb Pg. Bill George MK-3 582 Powerfin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net>
Subject: FireFly Speed
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Bruce, The FireFly with a 447 should do about 75 to 76 mph full power. That would have been at about 6600 rpms with wide open throttle. The prop was a 2-blade Ivo 66" dia. The last time I flew that fast I was racing Dick Rahill (greybeard) who was in the FireStar. It was not a smooth day and the turbulent air flow around the windshield sucked my glass off when I turned slightly to see if I was beating him. That was a costly race! Dennis Souder -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 10:14 PM Subject: Kolb-List: FireFly Speed Fellow Kolbians: Can someone tell me the cruise speed and rpm for his Kolb FireFly? My partner and I are building a standard FireFly with the Rotax 447, and we hope to keep it at standard weight, 254 lbs. We are having a 3-blade propeller carved for us. The prop guy wants to know what our airspeed and rpm will be at full throttle and low altitude. (We wouldn't expect to actually cruise at full throttle, but this is the data point he uses for prop design.) We sure would appreciate any real experience you all are getting. Your data will allow us to get the prop carved right away. Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88 Reedley, California ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net>
Subject: FireFly Speed
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Bruce, The speed I had given in my previous email were from memory. I looked it up and I found the following numbers: 78 mph at full power and the cruise speed at 6000 rpm was 63 mph. Static rpm was probably around 6400. I don't have the full power top speed rpms recorded, but they were probably at least 6600 and may be a bit higher. These were measured with GPS with several averaged runs back and forth over the same track in relatively calm air. So the numbers are probably pretty accurate. A 2-blade wood prop would probably do a bit better for top speed. Ivo's progressively become more inefficent at higher speeds. I learned this with careful measuring of the Laser speeds. The IVO is definitely not the way to go for faster aircraft. (I am refering to the Ivo's normally used on 2 strokes - not the Magnum.) For the speeds of the FireFly, FireStar and Mark-III, the Ivos are great. For the SlingShot and Laser, the Warp or wooden prop is a much better selection. Hope this helps. Dennis Souder Hope this helps. -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, November 04, 1999 9:10 PM Subject: RE: Kolb-List: FireFly Speed Bruce, The FireFly with a 447 should do about 75 to 76 mph full power. That would have been at about 6600 rpms with wide open throttle. The prop was a 2-blade Ivo 66" dia. The last time I flew that fast I was racing Dick Rahill (greybeard) who was in the FireStar. It was not a smooth day and the turbulent air flow around the windshield sucked my glass off when I turned slightly to see if I was beating him. That was a costly race! Dennis Souder -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruzan3(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:strut camera
Hi guys, Thanks for all of the photo feedback I am waiting for the motor drive to arrive so i don't have to advance the film manually. It is too easy to get distracted messing with the camera especially at least for a Kolb yearling such as myself. A friend from the field I fly from made the back cover of the experimenter this month. His name is Steve Rewolinski. I fly out of AeroPark in Sussex Wisconsin. They do aero-tows of hangliders (also in the experimenter magazine) from there. Bill Genteman does aero-tows in a Mark 3. He has a web site Aero-Wing.com. Really a great operation.Kolb put a picture of my plane on their website in their Oshkosh 99 section and it was great to trailer it to the show but flying in next year will be the ultimate thrill. Or maybe Sun n Fun! EAA also has a skiplane fly-in i think in January. Possum Yearling, John Bruzan FS2 18.6hr Chicago ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 1999
From: wood <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: FireFly Speed
> >Hope this helps. > >Dennis Souder > > Hey Dennis you still here I thought you gave up on us. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce McElhoe" <brucem(at)theworks.com>
Subject: Re: FireFly Speed
Date: Nov 04, 1999
Dennis, Many thanks for the data on FireFly speed. Wow!..that's a fast little machine. Sounds like a good race...bet it got your adrenaline up. I'm pleased and honored to receive this info from the designer himself....thanks again. Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88 Reedley, Calif. > The FireFly with a 447 should do about 75 to 76 mph full power. That would > have been at about 6600 rpms with wide open throttle. The prop was a > 2-blade Ivo 66" dia. The last time I flew that fast I was racing Dick > Rahill (greybeard) who was in the FireStar. It was not a smooth day and the > turbulent air flow around the windshield sucked my glass off when I turned > slightly to see if I was beating him. That was a costly race! > > Dennis Souder > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 1999
From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Powder Coating
somebody wrote: ------------------------------------------- Okay, Gang, now you got me worried. This recent thread about powder coating the aluminum tailboom, and how the heat involved in the process could weaken the structure really got my attention, because MY tailboom is powedercoated. (Airplane, a Mark-3, is 75% complete. Not flown yet.) This was an option offered by the Kolb factory when I bought my kit (year and a half ago). I would like to think that Kolb had done their homework and concluded that a one-time exposure to 400 degrees F (as happens in the powder coating process) would not degrade the structural integrity of the 6061 alum. Otherwise, they wouldn't offer it as an option. Any thoughts? Dennis Kirby s/n 300 Cedar Crest, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 1999
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:strut camera
I have done professional video work in >the past and decided I would check the Sony VX-1000 as a hand held in smooth >air. The video is acceptable, but you really need the gyro stab for that kind >of work. Have shot several hours of video out of a Firestar with a helment mounted "HitachiVM-HL100LA" Hi-8 Viedo camera. The camera seperates from the monitor and is a 1 1/2 inch cylinder and about 2 1/2 inches long, wieghs about 5 ounces. Can be mounted on your helment or wing folding bracket (it has 12 ft extension to the control panel). It also has the image stablizing chip, but the chip will not take all the vibration out of the viedo unless you damping it someother way, like mounting it on you helment, or cutting way back on the RPMS. I mount the 4" monitor and controls on a knee board. The helment has a LCD bow-sight(deer hunting stuff) that leaves a red dot image in the center of the frame, kind of like a heads-up display I guess. The Firestar full enclosure was a great platform for shooting, with a low instrument panel and no cross bars, doors to get in the way when you are panning another ultralight across you path. I can't see out of my right eye anyway, so I usually mount the camera over that side "Robocop" style. Plan on shooting more with the Possummobile. Kind of pricey, cross between professional and consumer equipment. More at <http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thomas L. King" <kingdome(at)tcac.net>
Subject: Re: hard starting - comments by an observer
Date: Nov 04, 1999
----- Original Message ----- From: Evertt Dunlap <dunlapet(at)yahoo.com> (3) there is an additive "PRIEST" -I believe > that is added in oz. quantities to the fuel tanks of a > piper driver I know, and he (as usual ... ) swears by > it ... I rode to FnS '98 and AvVent'99 and engine > never missed a beat. > Prist is an additive use to control microbial growth in turbine fuel. I have no idea what effect it would have on gasoline! Here at the local airport it is mixed at the rate of one gallon of prist to 1,000 gallons of jet A Tom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 1999
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Back in the garage
Howdy Bill, For awhile, I've barely been even lurking; busy and somewhat taking a break. I've just started getting back to my plane. I told an old list friend (Rusty) a couple weeks ago that I had started to rebuild, but I was lying ...all I had done was cleaned off my workbench. So now I've really started. Drilling out a bunch of rivets, etc. Starting is the hard part. I've got a lot of respect for all those of you who have gone back to damaged pride-and-joy and rebuilt it. -Ben Ransom > Good to know you are still lurking. Hope you are > making progress on getting > your bird in the air again. The Kolb is an excellent ===== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 05, 1999
Subject: Re: 6000 RPM--long
Interesting that you mention Molt Taylors use of an exhaust pressure gauge. I went to an antique tractor show last Saturday and I saw a beautiful brass gauge--it was an exhaust pressure gauge. I guess these were used on some old time tractors. Excellent observation of Molt's experiments and a good idea you had too. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 05, 1999
Subject: Re: hard starting - comments by an observer
I would have to check on the use of Prist in gasoline aircraft--I am pretty sure it is approved for use in Turbine fuel only. Why are you wanting to put Prist in your fuel --it is an antimicrobial additive because of the way water can remain entrained in jet fuel bacterial growth is a problem. It also helps reduce freezing of jet fuel systems where the entrained water freezes out on screens and filters etc. TCP by the way may be used in the Rotax 912 but is a big NO! in the two-stroke engines. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gerken(at)us.ibm.com
Date: Nov 05, 1999
Subject: Mkii dimensions
>Bill, I think that the trailer is big enough, the only question i would >have, would be the the lenth of the plane, when it is folded. Inside the >trailer is 24' 10". Check the lenth, and get back to me. Mike My stock Mkiii folded fits inside my 24' x24' garage (which really measures 23' inside). Width is 78 inches from outside main wheel to outside main wheel. Hope this helps... Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: SOME READING ENTERTAINMENT
The Hangar Of Rebirth I have built 3 airplanes now, or is it 5 ?? Therefore, I am wise and great of expertise and no longer make mistakes. Is that not so ?? Well, there is the odd exception as when I destroyed a simple seat pan by drilling holes in all the wrong places and compounding that by cutting a seat belt slot in entirely the wrong place.. I had some sheet stock cut-offs lying around, so I just cut a new one and set off for my local airport, there to use a shear and bending brake. Once inside, and my job done in short order, I had time to look around and talk to the brethren builders and rebuilders, for this was the house of Beavers reborn. What a place of wonder, inspiration, admiration and sadness..for here lay the broken and twisted bodies of several airplanes that once plied the airways of the world as they were meant to. Two examples, side by side, were a Beaver badly broken, lying next to one fully reborn and soon on its way out the door. When I suggested that the broken ship was a great challenge to rebuild, my friend said, "not at all,..you should see the two we just finished,..they were really disasters". But you wouldn't know it now. I have seen ships that were helicoptered out of Viet Nam, markings still there , and bullet holes still ripping the skin...Ships shot out of the skies of Colombia, rescued by men who love this airplane and work to see 50 year old airplanes born again. On a stand nearby was a radial engine, fresh and clean and new again, going into a Beaver with a fresh new paint job and glorious in all its new finery. I understand that some big names like Harrison Ford and Kenny G have had Beavers rebuilt to the nth degree for them.....seems that others still love this grand old bird too. This is a big bird..even on the water, you must climb up stairs to get aboard,...the prop and cowling stand above your head and you enter a separate door to get into the front office. Oh ! that I could loose one from the dock, hit the starter and see that shiny prop tick over and fire up the radial that shakes itself like a dog coming out of the water, throttle up, and not being able to hear your co-pilot for the roar as the prop tips break the barrier of sound, and a rooster tail the size that hydroplanes make follow us up river until we break free and climb away over the green ocean. Thanks to these craftsmen who smile a quiet knowing smile when I cry about my little boo-boo, these wonderful wrecks are coming back and giving us the joy of sight and sound of radials and bushplanes, because they aren't made anymore. I left the hangar, the smell of oil and gas and paint, the special smell of airplanes that is a narcotic I am shamelessly addicted to, and drove to the river to see old/new Beavers plying the waterways and making the sounds I came to hear...a very nice day in all. Somewhere out there, in the nether regions of the world, the jungles and the war zones, former and present, lie the remains of these birds and others, and sometimes those who flew them to their end there, the rescuers are looking for them, looking in earnest, and if they can be found, they will be returned home from whence they came, and cared for and mended and given life again. Wouldn't it be grand if we could do the same for all the lost ones we yearn to see again ? Until then, let us remember all, wish them well...and give... Thanksgiving These musings by Buster are just another one of the many reasons the RV-List is such a great value. Whether it's technical information, help with finding something you need, or just reading a neat aviation related story.....the List has it all! What a great place to spend a few minutes each day. How about doing your part today? You will feel much better for it! I know I did......... To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a look at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I had a mouse explode in my box of electrical connectors and splatter all over my digital compass.......now I have to search the archives for a good aluminum cleaner.......Oh yeah, about the mice coming back as cockroaches, let's not go there!!!!! AL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 6000 RPM--long and pressure gauges
Date: Nov 05, 1999
I've been told that pressure gauges will not work on 2 strokes to find the most power as on a 4 stroke. It has something to do with the pressure wave moving back and forth in the chamber at different rpms so the probe would be useless in only one place.????? Firehawk >From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com >Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 6000 RPM--long >Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 03:10:24 EST > > >Interesting that you mention Molt Taylors use of an exhaust pressure gauge. >I >went to an antique tractor show last Saturday and I saw a beautiful brass >gauge--it was an exhaust pressure gauge. I guess these were used on some >old >time tractors. Excellent observation of Molt's experiments and a good idea >you had too. JR > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Rotax and 100LL
Mornin Kolbers: Thought I would share some info on Rotax engines and 100LL. I got to do quite a bit of 2 stroke XC in the late 80s and 4 stroke XC in the 90s. The only difference, that I know of, between the 2 stroke then and now is CDI. Wish we had had that back then. Biggest headache was chasing point gap/ign timing. If I put a lot of hours on the old point ign 447 in a short period of time the micarta pivot bushing, not necessarily rubbing block, would wear making ign timing impossible. Also had problem with ign coils vibrating loose in their mounts. See, you guys have it made now with improved CDI. Now back to the subject. Always burned 100LL when XC with the 447. Never fouled a plug, but 447 was run at 5800 to 6200 rpm all day long. Also, plugs were changed frequently before they had a chance to lead foul. In 1994, burned 957 gal of fuel in 41 days, in the 912. More than 900 gal was 100LL. At aprx 75 hours on a set of plugs I at least one plug would lead foul. Indication would be a small thump sparadically in the airframe. A quick mag check during cruise would verify that it was an ign problem. Next landing, pull plugs, clean with pin knife, needle, straight pin, safety wire, blow out, replace and keep on flying. Never had a plug foul on mo-gas in the 912. Flew a set of plugs in the 912 for 225 plus hours. Installed new plugs and saw no difference in performance. Book says change plugs at 100 hour intervals. As far as I know, 100LL never damaged any of my engines, 2 or 4 stroke. My 912 now has 1,087.3 hours, as of yesterday, with no problems, to speak of. Will fly this same eng to Barrow, Alaska, next June, if it will make it. ;-) In fact, will be flying MK III and 912 just like they were on the 1994 17,400 mile flight, except for the added hours. I don't see any performance difference whether burning mo-gas or 100LL. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax and 100LL
Installed new plugs and saw no difference in performance. > Book says change plugs at 100 hour intervals. > john h Sorry Gang: The above should have been 200 hours plug change interval, not 100 hours. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com>
Subject: Protecting steel from corrosion
Date: Nov 05, 1999
Mornin' John! Poly-Fiber has a new process for steel tubing: Protect the steel as soon as possible right after blasting within an hour or two max. Immediately before priming, (even if you don't blast) wipe bare areas with Poly-Fiber C-2200 Metal Surface Cleaner, to remove all traces of oil, grease, and contamination. Wipe dry with a clean rag, NOT a shop towel. Then prime with Poly-Fiber EP-420 Epoxy Primer. We found that if you use phosphoric acid etch on steel, you will form a corrosion (rust) layer right away before you can get a primer on it. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to call. Jim & Dondi Miller Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BKlebon(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 05, 1999
Subject: Re: Kolb: Hard Starting
I was having problems starting my 447 Rotax if it sat for a few weeks during bad weather. Sometimes as many as 20 pulls on the rope @%*&/ !~`$*. At Sun-N-Fun a few years ago I bought a plunger type primer and since the motor starts on tke first pull 95% of the time ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike" <quick503(at)aisp.net>
Subject: Floats
Date: Nov 05, 1999
I was looking through my stuff that I got with My MKIII rebuild project and found 12v linear actuator that was used to raise and lower the amphib gear on the Full Lotus floats. I don't plan on using it and it works well. I also have the mounting brackets. Anyone interested? Cheers, Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Lotus Mono Float
Date: Nov 06, 1999
Hi, anyone have a mono float Lotus FL1000 they want to get rid of? I any going to put a float on my original model Firestar if I can get enough info on how to do it. So if anyone has done it, let me know. Scott Olendorf Original Firestar, Rotax 377 Schenectady, NY http://members.aol.com/olefiresta ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 06, 1999
Subject: Re: Back in the garage
In a message dated 11/5/99 12:53:12 AM Eastern Standard Time, bwr000(at)yahoo.com writes: << but I was lying ...all I had done was cleaned off my workbench. So now I've really started. Drilling out a bunch of rivets, etc. Starting is the hard part. I've got a lot of respect for all those of you who have gone back to damaged pride-and-joy and rebuilt it. -Ben Ransom >> Glad to see you back in the thicket again Ben, I particularly miss your perspicasiousness......bet you didn't even think you had any.....Hah! GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Powder Coating
Date: Nov 05, 1999
Kolb offered it to me as an option too, Dennis, but they wanted way too much money, so I had mine done locally - 2 1/2 yrs ago. I believed then, and now, that they had done their homework too. Some time since then we all got onto a similar thread, and it all came out as OK and approved. I can't remember now who found what, but I'm sure going to go through it again. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 1999 9:05 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Powder Coating > > somebody wrote: > was the tail tube, not the cage. The gage can handle all the heat of > powder coating no problemo`. It`s the tail tube that should not be put > to heat. That would be risky at best.> > > ------------------------------------------- > Okay, Gang, now you got me worried. > This recent thread about powder coating the aluminum tailboom, and how > the heat involved in the process could weaken the structure really got > my attention, because MY tailboom is powedercoated. (Airplane, a > Mark-3, is 75% complete. Not flown yet.) This was an option offered by > the Kolb factory when I bought my kit (year and a half ago). I would > like to think that Kolb had done their homework and concluded that a > one-time exposure to 400 degrees F (as happens in the powder coating > process) would not degrade the structural integrity of the 6061 alum. > Otherwise, they wouldn't offer it as an option. Any thoughts? > Dennis Kirby > s/n 300 > Cedar Crest, NM > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Townsend" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Subject: Vertical speed in MPH
Date: Nov 06, 1999
List, This was disturbing to me. I calculated the vertical speeds in MPH. Not a good thing in down drafts. Have you wondered why it took you so long to get to 10,000 ft. Here it is 100 feet per min.......... 1.136 MPH 200 fpm........................ 2.272 MPH 300 fpm........................ 3.409 MPH 400 fpm........................ 4.545 MPH 500 fpm........................ 5.681 MPH 600 fpm........................ 6.818 MPH 700 fpm........................ 7.954 MPH 800 fpm........................ 9.090 MPH 900 fpm........................ 10.227 MPH 1500 fpm...................... 17.045 MPH 2500 fpm...................... 28.409 MPH 4000 fpm...................... 45.454 MPH 10,000 fpm................... 113.636 MPH 50,000 fpm................... 568.181 MPH 200,000 fpm................. 2272.727 MPH Our Best Tim T. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com>
Subject: Hovering
Date: Nov 05, 1999
A new experience! Last week it was quite windy up in these parts, but I was anxious to fly and the wind was directly down the runway. The windsock was indicating anywhere from 10 to 20, depending when you looked! I took off and climbed quickly to 1000 feet and realized I was actually going no where fast. I glanced at the GPS and realized I was only moving at about 10 mph over the ground with an IAS of 60. SO, I thought, is it possible.... I reduced the throttle to give a 50 IAS and YES... I hit 0 on the GPS. And it was so SMOOTH, no bumps, which I woudl normally feel on a windy day like this. Just for the heck of it, I stood at 0 mph on the GPS for 10 MINUTES at 1000 AGL with a steady 50 IAS. My airspeed reads about 5 high, so I guess you could say I had a steady sustained wind hitting me at 45mph!! Of course, it was important that I had the nose aimed right into the wind to make this happen, but you know, it kinda wanted to aim that way whether I liked it or not! It was just so strange to sit above my house without moving an inch for so long, effortlessly. So this is what a helicopter is like??!! I think I appreciate that if I ever take a long Xcountry that its possible to burn a lot of fuel without making any headway if the destination is in the wrong direction to a strong wind. But the most difficult part was circling around and descending for landing.... the wind really played havoc with the plane esp since going sideways is not natural... but I landed without incident and wondered just how fast the GPS would have read IF I had gone full throttle (70 IAS) in the same direction of the wind! Jon Greenbay FS 50hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 1999
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Hovering
> >A new experience! SO, I thought, is it >possible.... I reduced the throttle to give a 50 IAS and YES... I hit 0 on >the GPS. And it was so SMOOTH, no bumps, which I woudl normally feel on a >windy day like this. Next time carry up a fishing line & a cold beer and lower it down to your friends on the ground-always impressed mine. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 06, 1999
Subject: Re: Hovering
You must live in Kansas--what you describe is a normal day. I have landed near verticle with zero wheel roll. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)gis.net>
Subject: Hovering
Date: Nov 06, 1999
Jon you should have slowed down and flown backwards we do it all the time here on cape cod ,sometimes on purpose sometimes not!! as for flying sideways not being natural ? it ain't?? christopher d ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Steinhagen" <bsteinhagen(at)itol.com>
Subject: Re: Hovering
Date: Nov 06, 1999
Jon, I may have been up in the same wind. My top speed (GPS) was 89mph. ---------- > From: Jon Croke <joncroke(at)itol.com> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Kolb-List: Hovering > Date: Friday, November 05, 1999 6:30 PM > > > A new experience! > > Last week it was quite windy up in these parts, but I was anxious to fly and > the wind was directly down the runway. The windsock was indicating anywhere > from 10 to 20, depending when you looked! > > I took off and climbed quickly to 1000 feet and realized I was actually > going no where fast. I glanced at the GPS and realized I was only moving at > about 10 mph over the ground with an IAS of 60. SO, I thought, is it > possible.... I reduced the throttle to give a 50 IAS and YES... I hit 0 on > the GPS. And it was so SMOOTH, no bumps, which I woudl normally feel on a > windy day like this. > > Just for the heck of it, I stood at 0 mph on the GPS for 10 MINUTES at 1000 > AGL with a steady 50 IAS. My airspeed reads about 5 high, so I guess you > could say I had a steady sustained wind hitting me at 45mph!! > Of course, it was important that I had the nose aimed right into the wind to > make this happen, but you know, it kinda wanted to aim that way whether I > liked it or not! It was just so strange to sit above my house without > moving an inch for so long, effortlessly. So this is what a helicopter is > like??!! > > I think I appreciate that if I ever take a long Xcountry that its possible > to burn a lot of fuel without making any headway if the destination is in > the wrong direction to a strong wind. But the most difficult part was > circling around and descending for landing.... the wind really played havoc > with the plane esp since going sideways is not natural... but I landed > without incident and wondered just how fast the GPS would have read IF I had > gone full throttle (70 IAS) in the same direction of the wind! > > Jon > Greenbay FS 50hrs > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 1999
From: Paul VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net>
Subject: Elevator travel on the MKIII
Hello everyone, We've started rigging the tail on our MKIII and have a question concerning the elevator travel. The book says "9-3/4" up and down travel minimum. A little more than 9-3/4" is ok, but not too much." We have more than 9-3/4" both ways and are wondering what some of you have for travel both directions before we build stops. Thanks in advance PaulV ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Hovering
From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 06, 1999
Hey Jon, interesting story, especially for a 50hr FireStar pilot! I've never got my GPS to show 0 mph although it's been quite low. Flying in these winds are ok if it's smooth, but when you come down and try a x-wind landing or get hit with all the turbulence off the trees, it does get hairy. I will carry an extra 10mph on approach to maintain control. Be sure to get the tail on the ground before losing a lot of airspeed so it doesn't go off the runway. It's definitely too windy to fly when the rudder is at the stops and the plane wants to go off the runway while taxiing. At a fly-in last year (Stanton Airfield, MN), I had to ask a volunteer out of the crowd to hold my upwind wing as I taxied out to the runway. The takeoff roll was all of 5 feet and it was a sloooooow ride home. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar, 12 years flying >I reduced the throttle to give a 50 IAS and YES... I hit >0 on the GPS. And it was so SMOOTH, no bumps, which I woudl normally feel >on a windy day like this. >Jon > Greenbay FS 50hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: The 'Connection's Website is Down . . .
Our website server has been down intermittantly for the past several days. Seems that some folk can access it while others cannot. When this all started, I was able to access it through our normal cable-modem service and had FTP access as well. Now it seems to be down 100%. Trying to find a website service tech on a weekend is about as difficult and finding your doctor. I've got several calls working to the local and corporate support numbers. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================= http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 1999
From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: Jabiru
John: I have the Jabiru ordered, but run into a snag when it was found none of the new ones delivered had the oil plug on the side. Can't change the oil on a kolb if its on the bottom. Glad they dicovered that. The prop I'm going to use is a Warp drive two blade tapered,58", ground adjustable. This is recommended by Pete Krotie of Great Lakes Light Planes in Wisconsin. I have ordered everything through him. I am also installing a EIS monitor for the Jabiru. Pete is coming down to install all of this with me. He runs a Jabiru on his Titan Tornado, which he sells, and it really drives that Titan. Cruise is around 115 mph. Won't see that with the Kolb. Pete thinks about 80 to 85. He uses the Warp Drive. Pete had built a Kolb Mark 111 before the Titan, he sold the Kolb, but its for sale by that party now, who is getting a Titan. Wants to go faster I guess. Dallas Shepherd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Elbie(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 07, 1999
Subject: AOA's
Builders: I know there has been a lot of discussion on different angle of attack (AOA) systems on the web. The mounting method of my systems are currently being modified to a much "better looking" method. If you are interested in the EM aviation RiteAngle systems, and have any questions regarding an installation in your particular aircraft, or about the system itself, please view my website at http://www.riteangle.com Go to "Frequently Asked Questions" and then fill out the easy to use inquiry form or e-mail me direclty at elbie(at)aol.com You can be assured that I do not use the information I receive from you for anything except giving you an honest answer, usually within a work day unless I am out of town at a Fly-In. The RiteAngle 1a is discontuined, with the RiteAngle Basic replacing it at a lower cost and improved display. This system is for basic primary aircraft with no flaps. The RiteAngle II systems were designed to fill a need for a system with the ability to set each LED individually as desired for your aircraft and also (IIa version) have corrections for four (4) seperate flap positions. . These two safety features I don't believe any other manufacturer's angle of attack system has. Audio warning available with each system. Since the first RiteAngle 1a system was sold in Jan. '96 and introduced at Sun n Fun that year, I consider it a compliment that many other manufacturer's systems are now using the LED display for their easy to understand "ladder of light" indications and reliability. Costs range from $ 250.00 for the RiteAngle Basic version to $ 595.00 for the RiteAngle IIa version. Thanks for your time, an please Fly the Safe Angle ! Fly the Safe Angle with the RiteAngle Elbie Mendenhall EAA 38308 EM aviation Owner ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Steinhagen" <bsteinhagen(at)itol.com>
Subject: Re: Jabiru
Date: Nov 07, 1999
Dallas, Who has Pete's Mark III? I know someone who might be interested. This guy is 6'4" 275lb. He's tried my FS-2 for size, with poor results. I've suggested a side-by-side UL converted to center-solo controls. I don't know how difficult that would be, but these big guys still want to fly! ---------- > From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> > To: Kolb-list > Subject: Kolb-List: Jabiru > Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 9:10 AM > > > John: > I have the Jabiru ordered, but run into a snag when it was found none of > the new ones delivered had the oil plug on the side. Can't change the > oil on a kolb if its on the bottom. Glad they dicovered that. The prop > I'm going to use is a Warp drive two blade tapered,58", ground > adjustable. This is recommended by Pete Krotie of Great Lakes Light > Planes in Wisconsin. I have ordered everything through him. I am also > installing a EIS monitor for the Jabiru. Pete is coming down to install > all of this with me. > He runs a Jabiru on his Titan Tornado, which he sells, and it > really drives that Titan. Cruise is around 115 mph. Won't see that > with the Kolb. Pete thinks about 80 to 85. He uses the Warp Drive. > Pete had built a Kolb Mark 111 before the Titan, he sold the Kolb, > but its for sale by that party now, who is getting a Titan. Wants to go > faster I guess. > Dallas Shepherd > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 1999
From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: Kolb for sale
Bruce: Try www.hometown.aol.com/eaau141. Thats the EAA club web page and its on it. Some others too, but well equipped with a high price, but nice. Pete's E-mail is gllplanes(at)aol.com. The club has a nice web page with lots of info. Dallas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike" <quick503(at)aisp.net>
Subject: Seats
Date: Nov 07, 1999
Anybody have any good suggestions for seats in a MKIII? Mine came with the webbing type with a life preserver for a seat cushion ( it was on floats ). I'd like something that looks a bit better. Cheers, Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cal" <cgreen(at)powerweb.net>
Subject: Re: Seats
Date: Nov 07, 1999
i had a custom upholstery shop make mine, on a 1/4 thick plywood. About 125.00 for one seat. A little expensive but looks nice. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Seats
Date: Nov 08, 1999
I used Empi dune buggy seats, with foam padded covers. Cost $168.00 for the pair, weigh about 6 lb. for the pair. Have pics if you like. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike <quick503(at)aisp.net> Sent: Sunday, November 07, 1999 7:26 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Seats > > Anybody have any good suggestions for seats in a MKIII? Mine came with the > webbing type with a life preserver for a seat cushion ( it was on floats ). > I'd like something that looks a bit better. > Cheers, Michael > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org>
Subject: Kolb: Hard Starting
Date: Nov 08, 1999
I had the same experience. Because of the high placement of the engine on a Kolb in relation to the tank, it can take quite a while to pull fuel up the line. I got tired of popping off the float bowl and filling it with fuel to get the engine to pop off and pull some fuel. The plunger was great because you could see fuel come up the line and you could be assured the float bowl was full. I originally had a ball-type hand pump on the fuel line, but threw it away after experiencing fuel starvation problems in flight. I took the in-line hand pump off and tried to blow through it . Even when oriented the right direction that in-line pump was a tremendous drag on the system. Adding the plunger-type primer allowed me to go with a fuel system with no resistance other than gravity. Bruce E. Harrison ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: THE MEANING OF VOLUNTARY
Hello Guys and Gals, Lets have a little discussion on what the meaning of VOLUNTARY is. Webster has it as: 1. Brought about by one's own free choice; given or done of one's own free will; freely chosen or undertaken.( 2. 3. 4. 5. have to do with manslaughter, muscles, and agency.) 6. Supported by contributions or freewill offerings; not supported by the state. "Voluntary implies the exercise of one's own free choice or will in an action, whether or not external influences are at work." Every April 15th I always feel like I am being FORCED to pay for a lot of things I not only don't believe in but that are outright against a lot of what I do believe in. Sure a lot of my tax dollars go to things I use and things I believe in and given the CHOICE I always say I would pay for those even if I weren't forced to.Unfortunately I don't have the opportunity to prove that. I HAVE to pay for all of it! Like it or not. Well that brings us to the Matronics Lists. Here we have a service that we use in one way or another. Whether you read it for the entertainment value or the technical content or the flying information or the occasional controversies, the point is you still read it. By being subscribed there must be something of interest here that has a value to you. This is your chance to prove that you would pay for those "services" that you use without being "forced" to pay. In this way you have the freedom to "price" out what your own "tax rate" should be. The freedom to pay for exactly what you feel you use. Of course, if you give a little extra it is appreciated, but giving SOMETHING is the whole point. To be counted in the LOC (List of Contributors) at the end of the fund raiser is an honor! It doesn't say how much you gave, it just says you gave. It says you care and you are willing to carry a part of the load. It gives you a chance to prove to yourself and others that you would pay for what you use and believe in without being FORCED to pay for it all. Of course if you don't give at all, you may not be the person you think you are. VOLUNTARY means........................YOU! Please give something today if you haven't already.............................. To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a look at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Next we may delve into what the meaning of "is" is. uh......maybe not! AL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Seats
> I used Empi dune buggy seats, with foam padded covers. Cost $168.00 for the > pair, weigh about 6 lb. for the pair. Have pics if you like. Big Lar. Larry: Have tried unsuccessfully to find an EMPI web site or some place to locate "dune buggy" seats. Will you send me the url for EMPI or a dealer? 1-800 number or what ever? Also, would like to see your installation of seats, and possibly dimensions of seats. Thanks in advance. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Seats
> Have tried unsuccessfully to find an EMPI web site or some > john h > Sorry Gang: After two years on the internet am still learning. This should have gone bc. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 1999
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org>
Subject: Hovering
Date: Nov 08, 1999
One of my most interesting flights involved high winds like you described. For several years I had attended an annual fly in at the State Line Ultraport in NC as a spectator. After I finally had my own Firestar, I was DETERMINED to make the 2 1/2 hour cross-country flight and wow the appreciative masses. Comment: Never put yourself in a situation where you HAVE to go anywhere in an UL. You tend to take more risks and push the envelope. Afternoon showers delayed my departure Friday evening till I only had a 3 hour window to complete the flight. Once aloft I realized there were strong winds above 2000 feet, and gusty winds below that. I tried flying high and I tried flying low and realized I just wasn't making my usual progress. Naturally I kept going. Stopped for fuel and to phone my flight following friends of my progress. Forty-five minutes after leaving Rock Hill, SC, I could still see the airport behind me in the distance. I knew I was only a few miles from the grass strip at York, but I just couldn't buck the wind anymore and dusk was only minutes away. I estimate the wind was 20 mph, gusting to 30 or more. The exciting part began when I accepted the inevitable and wheeled around to return to Rock Hill. (Good decision) My 60 mph cruise speed plus the tailwind resulted in a "rocket ride" that I won't soon forget. I was at 800 agl and got to watch the trees, high tension lines, and fields zoom by me. Felt like I was in an F-16. Landed fine at Rock Hill and tied down with heavy duty straps. Winds were high all that weekend so I drove to the fly-in AGAIN! Even so, the old saying still holds: "It is better to be down here, wishing you were up there, than to be up there, wishing you were down here." Bruce E. Harrison ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Seats
Date: Nov 08, 1999
Well , I went another route...I called and ordered a pair of seats from Rans that come out of the S-6S. They are a aluminum tubing frame with upholstery , map pockets behind the seat backs and everything. I originally was going to weld a set of seat runners into the cage to carry them but have decided to use a machined aluminum bar (6061-t651 3/4X3/4). It looks really slick and weighs practically nothing. (When its done I will tell you how much "nothing" weighs..have access to a postal scale..) The machining is neat but fast (the alum. is soft compared to the tool steel my buddy is used to working on..it pays to have friends with machine shops...hehehehe)...pictures in a few days. Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindpsring.com http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/home.htm P.S. Rans planes never impressed me ..but there seats are comfy!!! Go figure...I guess it's all the recumbant bike seats they make..practice makes perfectr >> I used Empi dune buggy seats, with foam padded covers. Cost $168.00 for the >> pair, weigh about 6 lb. for the pair. Have pics if you like. Big Lar. > > >Larry: > >Have tried unsuccessfully to find an EMPI web site or some >place to locate "dune buggy" seats. Will you send me the >url for EMPI or a dealer? 1-800 number or what ever? Also, >would like to see your installation of seats, and possibly >dimensions of seats. > >Thanks in advance. > >john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 08, 1999
Subject: Re: Seats
I have a pair of fiberglas seats I got from Pape Enterprises in El Cajon, CA. Cost about $90 a piece. Haven't had a chance to install them yet. I am considering clamping an aluminum plate with anchor nuts to the tubing and bolting the seat to it. Pape phone is 619-449-9720 E-mail john@pape-ent.com Bill George Mk-3 582 Powerfin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 1999
From: Cliff / Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)tetric.com>
Subject: Re: Seats
>> Anybody have any good suggestions for seats in a MKIII? I had seats made by a company in Dallas, Tx. that makes seat pads for outdoor furniture. The plasticized woven material breathes (no hot spots in the summer) and is completely washable. The pad has a foam core and is wrapped with some sort of white pillowy material before being stuffed into the casing. Comes in many colors to co-ordinate your color scheme. I gave them the dimensions, the color and the thickness I wanted and they did a really good job for $25/each. I highly recommend that kind of seat cushion for looks and comfort. It will not float though. Something else you might consider is buying a piece of light weight "auto" type carpeting (sold in several colors) sold at the auto stores. It is enough to line your cockpit by tucking between the tubes and Stits on the sides, over the center console (under an arm rest of course) and behind the seats (fastened with velcro) and even enough for the floor boards. I held down the floor board piece with a covering of Lexan on the forward part (The Lexan also provides a good heel slide for your shoes) to keep them from digging into the carpet. Later, -- Cliff & Carolyn Stripling 801 Avenida Serena, Marble Falls, Texas 78654 Vista Del Rio (Central Texas Hill Country) (830)693-9333 (voice) -7633 (fax) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BILLBEAM(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 08, 1999
Subject: Re: Jabiru
> AVIATION 101 > > Takeoff's are optional. Landings are mandatory. > > If God meant man to fly, He'd have given him more money. > > If you push the stick forward, the houses get bigger, if you pull the > stick back they get smaller. > (Unless you keep pulling the stick back --then they get bigger again.) > > > Flying is not dangerous; crashing is dangerous. > > It's better to be down here wishing you were up there, than up there > > wishing you were down here. > > The propeller is just a big fan in the front of the plane to keep the > pilot cool. Want proof? Make it stop; then watch the pilot break out into > a sweat. > > Speed is life, altitude is life insurance. No one has ever collided > with the sky. > > > It's best to keep the pointed end going forward as much as possible. > > The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire. > > Flying is the second greatest thrill known to man .... Landing is the > first! > > Every one already knows the definition of a 'good' landing is one from > which you can walk away. But very few know the definition of a 'great > landing.' It's one after which you can use the airplane another time. > > > The probability of survival is equal to the angle of arrival. > > Always remember you fly an airplane with your head, not your hands. > > Never let an airplane take you somewhere your brain didn't get to five > minutes earlier. > > You know you've landed with the wheels up when it takes full power to > taxi. > > Those who hoot with the owls by night, should not fly with the eagles > by day. > > A helicopter is a collection of rotating parts going round and round > and reciprocating parts going up and down -- all of them trying to become > random in motion. Helicopters can't really fly -- they're just so ugly > that the earth immediately repels them. > > Young man, was that a landing or were we shot down? > > Learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to make all > of them yourself. > > Trust your captain .... but keep your seat belt securely fastened. > > Any pilot who relies on a terminal forecast can be sold the Brooklyn > Bridge. If he relies on winds aloft reports he can be sold Niagara > Falls. > > Good judgment comes from experience and experience comes from bad > judgment. > > > Aviation is not so much a profession as it is a disease. > > There are three simple rules for making a smooth landing: > Unfortunately, no one knows what they are. > > The only thing worse than a captain who never flew as copilot is a > copilot who once was a captain. > > Be nice to your first officer, he may be your captain at your next > airline. > > > Any attempt to stretch fuel is guaranteed to increase head wind. > > A thunderstorm is never as bad on the inside as it appears on the > outside. It's worse. > > Son, I was flying airplanes for a living when you were still in liquid > form. > > It's easy to make a small fortune in aviation. You start with a large > fortune. > > A male pilot is a confused soul who talks about women when he's > flying, and about flying when he's with a woman. > > > A fool and his money are soon flying more airplane than he can handle. > > Remember, you're always a student in an airplane. > > Keep looking around; there's always something you've missed. > > Try to keep the number of your landings equal to the number of your > takeoffs. > > You cannot propel yourself forward by patting yourself on the back. > > > There are old pilots, and there are bold pilots, but there are no old, > bold, pilots! > > Things which do you no good in aviation: Altitude above you. Runway > behind you. Fuel in the truck. Half a second ago. Approach plates in the > car. The airspeed you don't have. > > > Flying is the perfect vocation for a man who wants to feel like a boy, > but > not for one who still is. > > Asking what a pilot thinks about the FAA is like asking a fireplug > what it thinks about dogs. > > Being an airline pilot would be great if you didn't have to go on all > those trips. > > Gravity never loses! The best you can hope for is a draw! > >vv ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 1999
From: Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 <sbaew(at)dames.com>
Subject: Re: tiny tach
Due to limited dashboard space on my Mrk III, Ive been using a "Tiny Tach" for monitoring of RPM. Its not working consistently. The tach relies on a wire that is wrapped several times around one of the spark plug wires, resulting in an induced current that is interpreted by the tach. Ive tried re-wrapping that wire several times, and changing the number of coils around the spark plug wire(2-5 times), but still get inconsistent readings - i.e., sometimes it appears to be working well (around 1200 to 5800 rpm from idle to WOT), but mostly readings are about 1/3 low. Ive got a Rotax 912; maybe this thing has a problem with four-strokes? Anybody else out there using the Tiny Tach on a 912 or other 4-stroke? thanx Erich Weaver ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Seats
Date: Nov 08, 1999
Well Group, I got into such a tangle with this, I thought I'd better reply to everyone. Apparently the kid who told me "Empi" had his wires crossed. Seats were made by Whittier Upholstery, in the L.A. area. Tried to call and their phone is disconnected. Empi seats are apparently pretty flimsy. 'Course, these guys at Indio Dune Buggy are pro desert racers, and need rugged stuff. Desert Motorsports here in Palm Springs referred me to the BugPak #7520 fiberglass seat shell for about $50.00, and the #8013 breathable cover (black only) for about $30.00. Seat looks like mine, in the picture. If you get the shell, I'd suggest having a local upholstery shop stitch up a cover for you, to make sure you get what you want. BugPak is at 1-714-979-4990. In Desert Motorsports' shop they have a really great custom seat on display, that is just about perfect. He let me bring it home to try it out, and it just don't fit. Too big, by far. Heavy too, at 12#, but I was willing to suffer that for the comfort, for the drivers' seat anyway. Spendy at $160.00 ea. but I was ready with the cash. My, it was comfy, and solid. Too bad it's so big. I rough measured the space available, and he's checking with the builder for me, (it's a custom off-road racing seat) to see if something can be made; also to see if it can be made with aluminum frame for lightness. It's been a busy morning. Guess this is why they call me Stub-Bourne. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 6:42 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Seats > > > > I used Empi dune buggy seats, with foam padded covers. Cost $168.00 for the > > pair, weigh about 6 lb. for the pair. Have pics if you like. Big Lar. > > > Larry: > > Have tried unsuccessfully to find an EMPI web site or some > place to locate "dune buggy" seats. Will you send me the > url for EMPI or a dealer? 1-800 number or what ever? Also, > would like to see your installation of seats, and possibly > dimensions of seats. > > Thanks in advance. > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: tiny tach
Date: Nov 08, 1999
I'll be real interested in replies to this, too. My tach uses 4 wrap around induction pick-ups, and I'm very interested in having it work properly. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Erich Weaver 805-683-0200 <sbaew(at)dames.com> Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 10:39 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: tiny tach > > Due to limited dashboard space on my Mrk III, Ive been using a "Tiny > Tach" for monitoring of RPM. Its not working consistently. The tach > relies on a wire that is wrapped several times around one of the spark > plug wires, resulting in an induced current that is interpreted by the > tach. Ive tried re-wrapping that wire several times, and changing the > number of coils around the spark plug wire(2-5 times), but still get > inconsistent readings - i.e., sometimes it appears to be working well > (around 1200 to 5800 rpm from idle to WOT), but mostly readings are about > 1/3 low. Ive got a Rotax 912; maybe this thing has a problem with > four-strokes? Anybody else out there using the Tiny Tach on a 912 or > other 4-stroke? > > > thanx > > Erich Weaver > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike" <quick503(at)aisp.net>
Subject: 582 case
Date: Nov 08, 1999
Thanks for all the feedback on the seats. Now I have another problem ... I need a serviceable 582 case. Just the case. Anyone have one sitting around in the "ya never know pile"? Cheers ( but not so cheerful ), Michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 08, 1999
Subject: Re: Seats
<< Well , I went another route... >> Me, too. 'N I copied it from Possum. You oughta try a desk chair - the kind with a seat base for your butt and an independent section for your back. Possum's got a real nice (expensive) base and back piece, whereas, mine is a $24 (on sale from Office Depot) but sure is comfortable. Mostly lightweight and only small modifications to attach the base to the Kolb seat frame. Seat back is more problematic but can be done. ulflyer ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 1999
Subject: Re: tiny tach
From: Robert L Doebler <robertdoebler(at)juno.com>
- I'll be real interested in replies to this, too. My tach uses 4 wrap around induction pick-ups, and I'm very interested in having it work properly. Big Lar. -I'm using a "tiny Tach". on my 503, was told when I ordered it, that there were two kinds. One for "points", and another for DCI. Told them it was a dci ignition. Been working fine for me. Bob Doebler F/S II-503 --- --- --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe Baker" <okiejoe(at)brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/07/99
Date: Nov 08, 1999
It seems, from looking at the pics of the Mark III that it has no dihedral. Are there any problems with handling because of a "straight" wing? Joe Baker ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 1999
From: Bil Ragsdale <bilrags@world-net.net>
Subject: Re: Back in the garage
To Ben Ransom and others: I've been working quietly on the MkIII rebuild for about 6 months. It is going well. Covered both wings during the past two weekends. Already rebuilt and repaired elevator, flaps and aileron. Lots of hours invested when it seemed like finishing was a long way off. What remains? Spray a little poly spray followed by poly tone and a few odds and ends like a new set of engine gauges. It's worth the effort. It is looking good now! The worst part was drilling out thousands of rivets and puttin in the new stuff. I don't envy you that Ben. As someone told me on this list when I was getting started; buy a dozen Black and Decker 1/8 inch drill bits and have at it. Looking forward from six months ago it looked like a long, long road. Looking back, it seems like time flew by. Hope you can be looking back and saying "that wasn't so bad after all" soon. Anybody out there recommend EGT and CHT gauge brands. Looking in the LEAF catalog the gauges are pretty cheap. Are they worth buying? Other catalogs seem to be more expensive. Maybe I'm comparing apples to oranges. Thanks, Bil GeoR38(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 11/5/99 12:53:12 AM Eastern Standard Time, > bwr000(at)yahoo.com writes: > > << but I > was lying ...all I had done was cleaned off my > workbench. So now I've really started. Drilling out > a bunch of rivets, etc. Starting is the hard part. > I've got a lot of respect for all those of you who > have gone back to damaged pride-and-joy and rebuilt > it. > -Ben Ransom >> > Glad to see you back in the thicket again Ben, I particularly miss your > perspicasiousness......bet you didn't even think you had any.....Hah! GeoR38 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/07/99
> > It seems, from looking at the pics of the Mark III that it has no dihedral. > Are there any problems with handling because of a "straight" wing? > Joe Baker Joe and Kolbers: Don't think so. Haven't found any in the last 1,322.7 flight hours. john h (still enjoying hell outta my old MK III) BTW: Installed a SS exhaust system from Titan Aircraft. The old 912 with 1,090+ hours gained 100 rpm in climb from the exhaust system I bought from Progressive Aerodyne. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/07/99
> > BTW: Installed a SS exhaust system from Titan Aircraft. > The old 912 with 1,090+ hours gained 100 rpm in climb from > the exhaust system I bought from Progressive Aerodyne. > > Hey Gang: Shoulda read the above before I hit the send button. Let me try again. Got a 100rpm improvement with the Titan exh over the exhaust sys from Progressive Aerodyne. Been climbing out at 60 mph and 5300 now it will turn 5400 at 60 mph. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce McElhoe" <brucem(at)theworks.com>
Subject: Re: Back in the garage
Date: Nov 08, 1999
Bil, I've had bad luck with Westberg gauges and do not recommend them....they don't hold up well in vibration. I recently bought Micro-1000 gauges from Aircraft Spruce. EGT and CHT dual gauges are $100 each plus probes....not cheap. I haven't installed them yet, but they look very nice. They claim to tolerate vibration. Japanese made, I think. Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88 Reedley, Calif. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bil Ragsdale <bilrags@world-net.net> > > Anybody out there recommend EGT and CHT gauge brands. Looking in the LEAF catalog > the gauges are pretty cheap. Are they worth buying? Other catalogs seem to be > more expensive. Maybe I'm comparing apples to oranges. > > Thanks, Bil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Davis" <csearch(at)nb.net>
Subject: Re: Mkii dimensions
Date: Nov 08, 1999
----- Original Message ----- From: <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 7:24 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Mkii dimensions > > > >Bill, I think that the trailer is big enough, the only question i would > >have, would be the the lenth of the plane, when it is folded. Inside the > >trailer is 24' 10". Check the lenth, and get back to me. Mike > > My stock Mkiii folded fits inside my 24' x24' garage (which really measures > 23' inside). > Width is 78 inches from outside main wheel to outside main wheel. > Hope this helps... > > Jim--thanks for your reply. Please give me an idea of what you are asking and your location. Thanks, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: AIRPORT BUMPER STICKERS
Bumper stickers seen at local airports: 1. I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it. I'm building my own airplane! 2. If ignorance is bliss, you must be really happy. Now is the time to make your contribution. 3. Yes, Jesus is coming ... everyone look busy. Start pounding rivets! 4. And so my therapist said, "You need a hobby" so here I am at the airport! 5. I used to have a handle on life, but it broke. So I ordered a Zenith kit. 6. Don't take life too seriously, you won't get out alive. So make your contribution really big! 7. WANTED: Meaningful overnight relationship. Need to be able to read plans. 8. You're just jealous because the voices only talk to me. And they say the Kolb is the only way to fly! 9. BEER: It's not just for breakfast anymore. (This one was on Chet's car) 10. I got a gun for my wife, best trade I ever made. Now I can buy a Rocket kit without consulting her. 11. So you're a feminist...Isn't that cute! (No comment!) 12. Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder. No wonder so many RV's have been completed! 13. Earth is the insane asylum for the universe. And airports are where they keep the really hard cases! 14. To all you virgins..thanks for nothing. Unlesss you are a good bucker! 15. I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing. (On my bumper) 16. Earth first...we'll mine the other planets later. 17. How can I be overdrawn, I still have checks! (So write one to Matronics!) 18. I'm just driving this way to piss you off. (At least until you make your contribution!) 19. Out of my mind. Back in five minutes. Out in my shop.....back in 2 years. 20. Keep honking, I'm reloading. 21. Sometimes I wake up grumpy; other times I let him sleep. (On wifes car) 22. I want to die in my sleep like my grandfather ... not screaming and yelling like the passengers in his car. (Who didn't make a contribution!) 23. God must love stupid people, he made so many. Good thing none that I know are pilots. 24. The gene pool could use a little chlorine. 25. Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine or my kit supplier! 26. It IS as BAD as you think, and they ARE out to get you. And you will contribute to Matronics! 27. I took an IQ test and the results were negative. So I sent a check for a (Choose one: RV, Kolb, Zenith, Rocket) kit. Or substitute : "So I bought a YAK" 28. It's lonely at the top, but you eat better and fly faster! 29. Give me ambiguity or give me something else. But PLEASE, no plastic airplanes! 30. We are born naked, wet and hungry. Then things get worse. We get into aviation! 31. A dirty mind is a terrible thing to waste. It could be spending hours pouring over plans! 32. Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else. Well, like everyone else in aviation anyway! 33. Lottery: A tax on people who are bad at math. Like all pilots who are also bad at finance too! 34. Very funny, Scotty. Now beam down my clothes. 35. Consciousness: that annoying time between mental lapses and another work session on "the kit"! 36. Be nice to your kids. They'll choose your nursing home. So why leave them anything...send it to Matronics. 37. 3 kinds of people: those who can count & those who can't. Oh yea, and those who build and those why buy finished, and those who choose tail draggers and those who choose nose draggers, and, and .......... 38. Ever stop to think, and forget to start again? Thats when it's time to deburr! 39. Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice Plane!' with a straight face to a spamcan owner just before you open the hanger door where your RV is kept! 40. So many idiots, so few clearances for take-off. To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a look at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 If you would just make your contribution you could put a stop to all this foolishness! AL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Steinhagen" <bsteinhagen(at)itol.com>
Subject: Re: Back in the garage
Date: Nov 08, 1999
I wouldn't give up my EIS. ---------- > From: Bil Ragsdale <bilrags@world-net.net> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Back in the garage > Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 8:51 PM > > > To Ben Ransom and others: > > I've been working quietly on the MkIII rebuild for about 6 months. It is going > well. Covered both wings during the past two weekends. Already rebuilt and > repaired elevator, flaps and aileron. Lots of hours invested when it seemed like > finishing was a long way off. What remains? Spray a little poly spray followed > by poly tone and a few odds and ends like a new set of engine gauges. > > It's worth the effort. It is looking good now! The worst part was drilling out > thousands of rivets and puttin in the new stuff. I don't envy you that Ben. As > someone told me on this list when I was getting started; buy a dozen Black and > Decker 1/8 inch drill bits and have at it. Looking forward from six months ago it > looked like a long, long road. Looking back, it seems like time flew by. Hope > you can be looking back and saying "that wasn't so bad after all" soon. > > Anybody out there recommend EGT and CHT gauge brands. Looking in the LEAF catalog > the gauges are pretty cheap. Are they worth buying? Other catalogs seem to be > more expensive. Maybe I'm comparing apples to oranges. > > Thanks, Bil > > GeoR38(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > > In a message dated 11/5/99 12:53:12 AM Eastern Standard Time, > > bwr000(at)yahoo.com writes: > > > > << but I > > was lying ...all I had done was cleaned off my > > workbench. So now I've really started. Drilling out > > a bunch of rivets, etc. Starting is the hard part. > > I've got a lot of respect for all those of you who > > have gone back to damaged pride-and-joy and rebuilt > > it. > > -Ben Ransom >> > > Glad to see you back in the thicket again Ben, I particularly miss your > > perspicasiousness......bet you didn't even think you had any.....Hah! GeoR38 > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Smart" <gsmart(at)iinet.net.au>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/07/99
Date: Nov 09, 1999
Can you give me the address either snail or e will do. Thanks Geoff -----Original Message----- From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Date: Tuesday, 9 November 1999 12:18 Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/07/99 > > >> >> BTW: Installed a SS exhaust system from Titan Aircraft. >> The old 912 with 1,090+ hours gained 100 rpm in climb from >> the exhaust system I bought from Progressive Aerodyne. >> >> > >Hey Gang: Shoulda read the above before I hit the send >button. Let me try again. Got a 100rpm improvement with >the Titan exh over the exhaust sys from Progressive >Aerodyne. Been climbing out at 60 mph and 5300 now it will >turn 5400 at 60 mph. > >john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Titan Exhaust
> Can you give me the address either snail or e will do. > > Thanks > > Geoff > >Hey Gang: Shoulda read the above before I hit the send > >button. Let me try again. Got a 100rpm improvement with > >the Titan exh over the exhaust sys from Progressive > >Aerodyne. Been climbing out at 60 mph and 5300 now it will > >turn 5400 at 60 mph. > > > >john h Geoff: Titan Aircraft 2730 Walter Main Road Geneva, Ohio 44041 (440) 466-0602 voice (440) 466-7550 fax titan(at)suite224.net Hope this helps you out. How are things in New Zealand? You guys getting ready for summer and we are getting ready for winter. Am in the serious planning stages of a return flight to Alaska with ultimate destination of Barrow, northernmost point in the North American Continent. Was 205 sm short of that goal 5 years ago. Believe I can make it this time. Am shooting for a mid June 2000 departure. This trip will be considerably shorter than the last one, aprx 8,500 sm compared to 17,400 sm. Regards, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 1999
From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: Kolb for sale
Gordon: Sorry about the L, I thought it was 141. When you get to the site,click on members list and equipment for sale. I looked at it again last night and there are several Titans and a blue Kolb Mark 111, plus some earphones. There isn't a price on the Kolb, so you would have to call Tony about it. It was built about the time I built mine and I ordered it in "94", finished it in "96". Pete Krotje built it and I believe Tony is his brother. Pete's Titan is for sale for $23,000 with a 80hp Jabiru engine on it. It goes fast. Dallas ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 1999
From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: Kolb for sale
Gordon: Checked it again and click on Members Items for sale, that will give you some nice pictures of the planes, prices, except the Kolb, and some of the equipment. Tony is not Pete's brother, Ben is. Kolb is owned by Tony Van Kampen, phone 920 982 3117. He bought a used Titan. Hope this gets you there. Dallas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Darren L Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org>
Subject: Re: tiny tach
Date: Nov 09, 1999
Group, Regarding the Tiny Tach, I had mine mounted on the instrument panel, and discovered that mine didn't like the long run of wire. I mounted it behind me on the left side of the cage, lost about 5-6' of wire, and it worked better. Darren Smalec, FS1, 460 F-40 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: . . . I think it's working.
Seems our website engineer decided that a change of directory names for our website was in order. The change was done without telling us anything about it and it seems to have caused our difficulties for the past 4 days. Seems some folk could get in while others (including yours truly) could not. Don't understand everything I've learned about this problem but I think it's working now. If anyone has trouble accessing our homepage at http://www.aeroelectric.com . . . . I'd like to hear about it. Thanks for your patience and help. By the way, this problem had NO EFFECT on our e-mail system and any orders in work were not at risk. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================= http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Herren" <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Boom in San Antonio
Date: Nov 09, 1999
Had a quick thought of you when I got my Experimenter mag today. On the table of contents page and page 25 there is a red Kolb N51KA and it took a few seconds to remember that yours is N51SK. I still hope to get over for the boom. I dinged my truck and need to pay for that before I start the rebuild. Bill >From: N51SK(at)aol.com >Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Boom in San Antonio >Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 00:49:34 EST > > >In a message dated 3/23/99 9:00:26 PM Pacific Standard Time, >wmdherren(at)hotmail.com writes: > ><< Has San Antonio become a Boom town? I am looking for a boom for an > Ultrastar. 0.50" wall 5" dia. 6063 is called for on the plans but I'd > get the 6061 T6 if I could find it. Actually I talked to a place in > Houston that might have it. Where did you find some? Are you native to > SA? I was an Army Brat and lived in SA during WWII and again when POP > went to Korea (after that war). Grad from Alamo Heights in 57. After > grad from A&M I was at Lackland in 62 and made my first solo at Stinson > Field the 8th day after my first lesson. Couldn't fly on the 7th - the > inst. went on an X/C. Lots of luck with the rivet drilling. If they > are SS you need help! BILL HERREN > >>Hey Bill... >I've got one with a ding in it I'd let go cheap....got a staple shot in it >when it was packed for shipping...it's the right size...just got the ding > >Steve K. Mk2 > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 1999
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Guages: Was back in the garage
Bil and all, Thanks for the encouragement. Even after barely starting it's not looking as formidable. I have Westach gauges. Had a problem with CHT once and Westach fixed it quickly and either free or inexpensive. I like the look of round gauges on the panel, and they are probably a little cheaper than an EIS, but for functionality EIS is the absolute best option. If you factor in the possibility of an EIS alerting you to an engine malfunction, EIS is then also way cheaper than anything else too. I'll probably keep my round gauges. Have always thought about adding my own warning buzzer circuitry to them ...a symptom of the 'do-it-yourself' disease. -Ben ===== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 1999
From: wood <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/07/99
Been climbing out at 60 mph and 5300 now it will >turn 5400 at 60 mph. > >john h > ????? That dosn't seem to be an improvement to me. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/07/99
> Been climbing out at 60 mph and 5300 now it will > >turn 5400 at 60 mph. > > > >john h > > > > ????? That dosn't seem to be an improvement to me. > > Woody Woody, Woody: How come??? john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 1999
From: wood <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/07/99
> > >> Been climbing out at 60 mph and 5300 now it will >> >turn 5400 at 60 mph. >> > >> >john h >> > >> >> ????? That dosn't seem to be an improvement to me. >> >> Woody > > > >Woody, Woody: > >How come??? > >john h > Johnny Johnny Johnny I'm not the smartest critter around but if the engine has to turn faster to go the same speed I would not think it an improvement. Would there be a corresponding increase in rate of climb to account for this increase in RPM? Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Guages: Was back in the garage
Date: Nov 09, 1999
I think we agreed on our mutual preference for gauges some time ago Ben. Just like the look of 'em. I hope I'm on the right track with mine, cause like you, I've got Westbergs, and that message the other day made my blood run cold. Like you, I've had excellent service from Westberg in the past, but would prefer not to have problems in the future. When I built my panel, I was more worried about the expensive radios being hurt by vibration, so built a complete panel to carry radios, gauges, switches and all, and mounted the whole 9 yards on 12 of the Cessna rubber panel mounts from A/C Spruce, so that it kind of floats. Why 12 mounts ?? Cause I started with 6, and they drooped under the weight. Didn't figure they'd last long. Kept adding them till it "looked good," and still had easy movement. Hope that saves my delicate instruments. Hang in there Ben, and good luck. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 12:40 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Guages: Was back in the garage > > Bil and all, > Thanks for the encouragement. Even after barely > starting it's not looking as formidable. > > I have Westach gauges. Had a problem with CHT once > and Westach fixed it quickly and either free or > inexpensive. I like the look of round gauges on the ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Corrosion
Date: Nov 09, 1999
OK guys, up and at 'em. I just got off the phone from talking with the (now retired) owner of the flight school in Port Angeles that taught me to fly. Got on to the subject of corrosion proofing, and he told me of some experiments he and others tried a while back; and we may need some help with this. Now..........they took a product called "something" 50, and sprayed it in 1 wing of a 180 on floats. (Or maybe 1/2 of the airplane) Then used LPS-3 in the other wing, (or other 1/2 ), loaded it on the back of a commercial boat and hauled it to Alaska. Dumped it in the ocean, and used it for fish spotting, etc. for quite a period of time. He says the LPS-3 was far superior. It leaves a yellow film on the structure, and needs a solvent to be removed. Leaves a "wax" coating. When removed after several years, the structure looked brand new ! ! ! Also, it's apparently available in auto parts stores for around $20.00 a gallon, so it's far cheaper than the alternatives. He doesn't remember what the "something" was in the 50, nor the mfgr of the LPS-3. They never tried Corrosion X. I'll start checking this weekend, but in the meantime, does any of this ring any bells for anybody ?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Corrosion
LPS 3 is a powerful corrosion preventative. You guys are going to have C--p dripping out of everything. What you building anyway? The Y3K Kolb? Do Not Archive. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Guages: Was back in the garage
Gentlemen: Like you I have had basically decent luck with Westberg gauges. My problem is the lousy push on connectors. My gauges survive the vibration OK, but my connectors often fall off. I try to crimp them artfully as I can, and I push them on firmly, but they still come off now and again. It is very distressing to look at one side of my egt gauge with the needle lying limp at the bottom and wonder whether the connector has fallen off, or whether I have a real problem. Cripes, this is an airplane, every important connection ought to have some positive way of locking it down, rather than relying on friction. What are the thoughts of the group? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Guages: Was back in the garage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Guages: Was back in the garage
In a message dated 99-11-10 9:57:03 AM Eastern Standard Time, rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com writes: <> All of the westberg gauges have the smooth bayonette connectors. They are little male shaped stems, no threads, no provision for attaching anything mechanically to them. The female side is a split metal tube that slips over the male stem with a provision to crimp the wire into it at the back. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Guages: Was back in the garage
From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 10, 1999
Guys, I used #22 gauge wire (stranded) from the thermocouple cable soldered to the instrument connector leaving plenty of strain relief for the wire. The connector slides on tight (crimp it with a needle-nose pliers prior to installation). The stranded wire then needs to be secured to the fiberglass nose so it won't hang from the connectors. Never had a problem and my panel is not isolated for vibration dampening. Would you believe the instruments have held up all these years? (they are from CPS). Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar, 12 years flying > >Gentlemen: > > Like you I have had basically decent luck with Westberg gauges. >My >problem is the lousy push on connectors. My gauges survive the >vibration OK, >but my connectors often fall off. I try to crimp them artfully as I >can, and >I push them on firmly, but they still come off now and again. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 1999
From: Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Re: Guages: Was back in the garage
I bundle all my wires into small "mini bundles" for lack of a better word, then those are all zip tied to small aluminum tabs bolted on to the back side of the screws holding the guages in. This "pulls" the harness towards the instruments, and we have yet to have a wire fall off. You could probably use a tiny drop of Loctite Clyndrical locking compound (green) on them if you dont bundle your wires. I doubt it would affect the current flow. Mike Brown Olympic Ultralights Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Gentlemen: > > Like you I have had basically decent luck with Westberg gauges. My > problem is the lousy push on connectors. My gauges survive the vibration OK, > but my connectors often fall off. I try to crimp them artfully as I can, and > I push them on firmly, but they still come off now and again. It is very > distressing to look at one side of my egt gauge with the needle lying limp at > the bottom and wonder whether the connector has fallen off, or whether I have > a real problem. Cripes, this is an airplane, every important connection > ought to have some positive way of locking it down, rather than relying on > friction. What are the thoughts of the group? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 1999
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Gauges
Like Ralph, I just add a little crimp to the female end before pushing in onto the instrument male end, and leave the wire bundle secured by tie-wraps to something more solid. No vibration isolation needed. Sorry about getting us started on a mispelled subject line. ...bad for the archive search. :-/ -Ben ===== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 10, 1999
Subject: Re: Back in the garage
Hi Ben et al. A few years ago I purchased some slightly cheaper dual CHT and dual EGT gages that were made in china. Saved a few bucks and bought a lot of head aches. Previously and from now on I will be using West Tachs. They answer their phone and know what they are talking about. I believe they are located in Sonoma CA. Their gages are also imported but they work and I'm sure the West Tach stands behind them if they don't. I avoided some trouble by making all of the probe-to-gage connections and testing them by heating the probes prior to final installation of the wires. It was a lot easier to work on the instrumentation before the fabric was on too. Good luck Ben. We need you back in the air and on-line. Duane the plane in Tallahassee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 1999
From: Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re:Exhaust Pressure Guage
Kolbers, Someone commented about my report of Molt Taylor using a pressure gauge in the exhaust to measure a 2 strokes power output. He said that since the resonant exhaust waves change so much that it would make little sense to use a gauge there. In fact the changes are so fast that an average would appear on the gauge, and the higher the pressure, the more load the engine is experiencing at that moment. The reading would be more analagous to torque than to horsepower. Sorry this is a little late in response. ...Richard Swiderski ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: WELL IT'S WORKING !
Well you guys, It's working. I had the opportunity to have a chat with MATT today and discovered that a LOT of you ARE contributing. That is a lot of you compared to past fund raisers. We are doing well but with about 2000 people on the lists the vast majority of you are still sand bagging. (or is that lurking?) Well although just lurking is fine and I can understand it, I still think it would be nice if you would recognize at least the entertainment value of this list and get that contribution in now. I know, I know, SOME of you have a really, really good reason NOT to contribute and for those I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say that I hope your next PAROLE HEARING is more successful. But for those of you who still have access to a valid credit card or your bank still honors your checks, make that contribution NOW.... There's never been a better time! AL To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a look at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 1999
From: Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net>
list-homebuilt , list-kolb , list-lancair , list-seaplane , list-tailwind , list-zenith
Subject: Tie wrap string
Greetings, I have a limited supply of tie wrap strimg in 500yd spools I am interested in selling. It is the flat braded, coated aircraft type that will not come untied easily. I will sell if for $12 per spool shipping included. If you are interested, contact me off the list. I also have other products I offer. If you provide your US Postal address I will send you a set of my flyers. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 1999
From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Back in the garage
Mine telling who the supplier of the poor quality gauges was so we all don't get stung by the same outfit. If they sell junk then they should reap the crop they sow. > >Hi Ben et al. A few years ago I purchased some slightly cheaper dual CHT and >dual EGT gages that were made in china. Saved a few bucks and bought a lot of >head aches. Previously and from now on I will be using West Tachs. They >answer their phone and know what they are talking about. I believe they are >located in Sonoma CA. Their gages are also imported but they work and I'm >sure the West Tach stands behind them if they don't. I avoided some trouble >by making all of the probe-to-gage connections and testing them by heating >the probes prior to final installation of the wires. It was a lot easier to >work on the instrumentation before the fabric was on too. Good luck Ben. We >need you back in the air and on-line. Duane the plane in Tallahassee > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Townsend" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Subject: VW engines
Date: Nov 11, 1999
Tim T. here I am looking for the perfect engine for my Mark III. What do you think about the VW conversions?? And does any one have an engine for sale, any brand? Our Best Tim T. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 11, 1999
Subject: Re: VW engines
I suspect that by "perfect" you mean cheap as there is nothing perfect about a VW engine. In my opinion the perfect engine, but not cheap, would be the 912S followed the "mighty" but still not perfect 582. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 11, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Found it . . .
I'd lost the original piece on Adel clamps but a helpful builder pointed me to another site where it was republished. I've captured the article and reposted it at: http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/articles/adel.html Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================= http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 11, 1999
From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: Engine for sale
T. Townsend I have an 80hp Jabiru on order and when it gets here I will have a Rotax 582 for sale. I fly a Mark 111. The Rotax has 102 hours on it after I flew this morning. Have had no problems in that 102 hours. Reason for the switch--I wear two hearing aids, want less noise. I have a short grass strip with wires at one end and trees on the other and want more climb in warm weather with two people. I am at the edge of the Ozark National Forest and there are few flat places around here. I am looking for more reliability in the Australia certified engine. I'm not sure what a 582 with that many hours is worth. Dallas Shepherd Norfork, Arkansas ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: pink fuel line
From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 11, 1999
Guys, I happened to stumble across a potential problem with the type of fuel line that I installed prior to my trip to Oshkosh. I bought some pink-colored urethane fuel line through one of the aftermarket dealers and replaced my 10 year old blue urethane (which was still very flexible) with this stuff. I noticed the wall thickness of the pink tubing was greater so some of the plastic clamps would not ratchet fully closed as they had on the blue tubing. After my return flight, I noticed a gas leak on the garage floor underneath the plane. I thought this was odd (duh), so I checked the tubing and saw that it had become less flexible and had shrunk in diameter loosening the clamps. I replaced the tubing and I could not believe how brittle it had become in such a short period of time. I called the dealer about this and they said this is a first and sent out new tubing free of charge. At least they were nice about it. From now on, it's the blue urethane and nothing else. I burned 100LL for part of my trip. Do any of you guys know if that may have affected it? This was the first time using avgas in my Rotax. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar, 12 years flying and still learning ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruzan3(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 11, 1999
Subject: Re: Tie wrap string
Please send me a list of what you have Thank you, John Bruzan 133 e. Gregory Mt Prospect,IL60056 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Engine for sale
Date: Nov 11, 1999
I'm very interested in the engine & would like to talk to you. My pager is 800-652-3546, or call me at home - 630-898-8151. Thanks. chris sudlow -----Original Message----- From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> Date: Thursday, November 11, 1999 1:17 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Engine for sale > >T. Townsend >I have an 80hp Jabiru on order and when it gets here I will have a >Rotax 582 for sale. I fly a Mark 111. The Rotax has 102 hours on it >after I flew this morning. Have had no problems in that 102 hours. >Reason for the switch--I wear two hearing aids, want less noise. I have >a short grass strip with wires at one end and trees on the other and >want more climb in warm weather with two people. I am at the edge of the >Ozark National Forest and there are few flat places around here. I am >looking for more reliability in the Australia certified engine. I'm not >sure what a 582 with that many hours is worth. >Dallas Shepherd >Norfork, Arkansas > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 11, 1999
Subject: Re: pink fuel line
In a message dated 99-11-11 6:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, ul15rhb(at)juno.com writes: <> My understanding is that the pink tubing is for the pulse line for the fuel pump. It's stiffer and does not absorb the energy of the pulse. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 11, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Navaid and DG tracking . . .
>I installed the Navaid device in N40VX and am generally satisfied with the >performance. It tracks the SL-70 Apollo GPS well, although at first I >wasn't sure that it did. The manual is not too good, and it took me some >time to realize what I had to do to get it tracking. >I would be grateful in Navaid would provide the ability in the device to >track on a ground path, as if it was tracking on a heading bug on the DG. >This would seem to be a fairly straightforward feature, and I am surprised >that it doesn't seem to be possible with the unit I have.. > See website at http://www.porcine.com/ You can purchase a coupler that will take the heading bug output from a DG and steer your wing leveler with it. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================= http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Townsend" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Subject: Re: VW engines
Date: Nov 11, 1999
I have flown the 582 and 503 for 135 hrs. in PPC's and am just looking for something different. Maybe good ol Rotax is the way to go. Our Best Tim T. ----- Original Message ----- From: <JRWillJR(at)aol.com> Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 2:34 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: VW engines > > I suspect that by "perfect" you mean cheap as there is nothing perfect about > a VW engine. In my opinion the perfect engine, but not cheap, would be the > 912S followed the "mighty" but still not perfect 582. JR > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Townsend" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Subject: Re: Engine for sale
Date: Nov 11, 1999
I am interested!! Where do you live? I live in Lebanon MO. also in the Ozark mountains. In fact we flew our PPC's over Lake of the Ozarks today. You can contact me at townsend(at)webound.com about your 582. Our best Tim T. ----- Original Message ----- From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 1:06 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Engine for sale > > T. Townsend > I have an 80hp Jabiru on order and when it gets here I will have a > Rotax 582 for sale. I fly a Mark 111. The Rotax has 102 hours on it > after I flew this morning. Have had no problems in that 102 hours. > Reason for the switch--I wear two hearing aids, want less noise. I have > a short grass strip with wires at one end and trees on the other and > want more climb in warm weather with two people. I am at the edge of the > Ozark National Forest and there are few flat places around here. I am > looking for more reliability in the Australia certified engine. I'm not > sure what a 582 with that many hours is worth. > Dallas Shepherd > Norfork, Arkansas > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: VW engines
Date: Nov 11, 1999
I don't know how "perfect" anything is going to be, but for an economical alternative, the VW has some real advantages. Most are set up for direct drive, and for that, the Great Plains version is very hard to beat. My understanding is that most Vdub failures are from using the wrong crankshaft, and/or prop hub, followed by valve problems. The Great Plains crankshaft with Force One prop hub, is just about unbreakable, and by doing regular valve adjustments, you would be in pretty good shape. Just like any other engine...............you gotta do your maintenance, and take care of it. There are at least 2 on the list flying direct drive Vdubs, (2180cc), and they report performance with pilot only to be about the same as a 912 with pilot and passenger. Not too bad, considering they're about 1/4 the price. (I'm talking about flying, complete, all up) So far, I'm the only one I know of that's building a VW with a redrive, and it's not flying yet, so all is still speculation and hope. Sounds like you're looking seriously at that 582, but keep the Vdub in mind for the future. There's a lot (! ! !) of them flying out there in Sonerais, KR's, Dragonflys, etc., and they're doing a real good job. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: T. Townsend <townsend(at)webound.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 11:16 PM Subject: Kolb-List: VW engines > > Tim T. here > > I am looking for the perfect engine for my Mark III. What do you think about > the VW conversions?? And does any one have an engine > for sale, any brand? > > Our Best > > > Tim T. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "T. Townsend" <townsend(at)webound.com>
Subject: Re: VW engines
Date: Nov 11, 1999
Thanks Larry, I am still considering all options. There is a guy doing VW conversions In Rolla, MO. so I am going to see what he is offering. Our Best Tim T. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 11:10 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: VW engines > > I don't know how "perfect" anything is going to be, but for an economical > alternative, the VW has some real advantages. Most are set up for direct > drive, and for that, the Great Plains version is very hard to beat. My > understanding is that most Vdub failures are from using the wrong > crankshaft, and/or prop hub, followed by valve problems. The Great Plains > crankshaft with Force One prop hub, is just about unbreakable, and by doing > regular valve adjustments, you would be in pretty good shape. Just like any > other engine...............you gotta do your maintenance, and take care of > it. There are at least 2 on the list flying direct drive Vdubs, (2180cc), > and they report performance with pilot only to be about the same as a 912 > with pilot and passenger. Not too bad, considering they're about 1/4 the > price. (I'm talking about flying, complete, all up) So far, I'm the only > one I know of that's building a VW with a redrive, and it's not flying yet, > so all is still speculation and hope. Sounds like you're looking seriously > at that 582, but keep the Vdub in mind for the future. There's a lot (! ! > !) of them flying out there in Sonerais, KR's, Dragonflys, etc., and they're > doing a real good job. Big Lar. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: T. Townsend <townsend(at)webound.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 11:16 PM > Subject: Kolb-List: VW engines > > > > > > Tim T. here > > > > I am looking for the perfect engine for my Mark III. What do you think > about > > the VW conversions?? And does any one have an engine > > for sale, any brand? > > > > Our Best > > > > > > Tim T. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 12, 1999
Subject: Re: pink fuel line
________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 12, 1999
Subject: Re: pink fuel line
I run 100LL in my 582 when ever I go on a cross-country. Looking for auto fuel is to much trouble. I have found no adverse affects. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Fletcher" <bwf(at)emailmn.com>
Subject: Re: Engine for sale
Date: Nov 12, 1999
I have a 912 for sale 200 Hr.. No reasonable offer refused bwf(at)emailmn.com 612 545-8722 ============================================================ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 12, 1999
Subject: Re: Back in the garage
Esp. to jbidle, Re: which Mfgr made the bad (a little cheaper) EGT Gage. I bought the gages during a Lakeland pilgramage one year and didn't get them installed on my FireFly untill the next so the reciept I needed was systematically lost. I bought them from LEAF who also sells the good ones I should have bought. The manufacturer cleverly left their name off of the instrument. I thought they were Westach and called them. They said it was not theirs and that I was not the only one having troubles with these units. Since I didn't have the receipt I just threw it in the junk box and ordered a Westach which has never failed. Two added tips on gages: I use the nylon/set screw terminal strips sold by Radio Shack to make the thermocouple extension connections. The set screws can be backed off for trouble shooting and the conection is really good when they are tight. I have never had one back off from vibration. We are dealing with millivolts here and good connections are an absolute necessity. Also my next instrument panel will be be designed using the square gages because when all the gage holes were cut for the round clamp-in type the panel was pretty flimsy. It think the four screws around each dial would help stiffen the panel. Duane the plane in Tallahassee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Navaid and DG tracking . . .
>I don't have a bug on my DG, and was hoping that the Navaid could >simply track on a heading. Don't see why not. How would it sense what heading you were on? It needs an electrical signal from a device designed to drive the pointer in a CDI instrument (deviation from a radial or ground track) or from a device like heading bug on gyro (deviation from heading). The Navaid has only a rate sensor (like a turn coordinator) that deduces heading deviation by multiplying degrees-per-second turn by seconds and then working to keep that value "zeroed". Rate devices and the electronics that integrate their signals drift, hence variable degrees of ability to hold a true heading with respect to the earth. Even if you had a heading bug on the gyro, it too will drift, abeit more slowly than a rate-based device, unless it is magnetically slaved to the earth. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================= http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 1999
From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net>
Subject: Jabiru
W. George: They are including the adaptor mount with the engine. The dealer is having it made with measurements from his Kolb he sold, but is still in his EAA club. Dallas ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 1999
From: Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: Alternative engines
Tim, You might want to chaeck out Raven Redrive at http://www.raven-rotor.com They offer 3 & 4 cyl 4 stroke engines from the Geo Metro car with their own conversion packages. I've bought one that I'll be putting on my Sling Shot & there's another guy putting one on his MkIII. ....Richard Swiderski T. Townsend wrote: > > Thanks Larry, > > I am still considering all options. There is a guy doing VW conversions > In Rolla, MO. so I am going to see what he is offering. > > Our Best > > Tim T. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 11:10 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: VW engines > > > > > > I don't know how "perfect" anything is going to be, but for an economical > > alternative, the VW has some real advantages. Most are set up for direct > > drive, and for that, the Great Plains version is very hard to beat. My > > understanding is that most Vdub failures are from using the wrong > > crankshaft, and/or prop hub, followed by valve problems. The Great Plains > > crankshaft with Force One prop hub, is just about unbreakable, and by > doing > > regular valve adjustments, you would be in pretty good shape. Just like > any > > other engine...............you gotta do your maintenance, and take care of > > it. There are at least 2 on the list flying direct drive Vdubs, > (2180cc), > > and they report performance with pilot only to be about the same as a 912 > > with pilot and passenger. Not too bad, considering they're about 1/4 the > > price. (I'm talking about flying, complete, all up) So far, I'm the only > > one I know of that's building a VW with a redrive, and it's not flying > yet, > > so all is still speculation and hope. Sounds like you're looking > seriously > > at that 582, but keep the Vdub in mind for the future. There's a lot (! ! > > !) of them flying out there in Sonerais, KR's, Dragonflys, etc., and > they're > > doing a real good job. Big Lar. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: T. Townsend <townsend(at)webound.com> > > To: > > Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 11:16 PM > > Subject: Kolb-List: VW engines > > > > > > > > > > Tim T. here > > > > > > I am looking for the perfect engine for my Mark III. What do you think > > about > > > the VW conversions?? And does any one have an engine > > > for sale, any brand? > > > > > > Our Best > > > > > > > > > Tim T. > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 12, 1999
Subject: Static port for ASI
For about the last three months I have been trying to find a good set up for my ASI static port and finally think I have it solved. I have tried the Stearman type, one side port, plopping the static tube hose in the cockpit floor and numerous others but none of them gave me a reasonable and repeatable reading throughout the speed range. I finally drilled 1/8" holes on both sides of my nose cone and made up two special fittings that are epoxied on the inside of the nose cone to interface the drilled holes with 1/4" tubing. A 1/4"ID interconnected tube is "T"ed to the ASI inlet. The fittings are made from 1" Lexan discs with holes in the center and around their perimeter. A plastic 1/4" elbow was glue-gunned to the disc using the perimeter holes for mechanical grip. The epoxy shared these holes for the same purpose. The fittings also allow the connection to be as nearly flush with the inside of the nose cone so they won't get knocked of during heavy use of rudder peddles. Note: during development of this part the glue gun joint failed a twisting test after 20 minutes in the deep freezer before the perimeter holes were incorporated in the final design. Old test engineers never die... as long as they have a challenge. Duane the plane in Tallahassee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 12, 1999
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
In a message dated 11/12/99 1:03:36 PM, MitchMnD(at)aol.com writes: <> Duane, Where are the holes located, i.e. front to back and top to bottom position?? Have you flight tested the installation yet? Bill George Mk-3 582 Powerfin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 1999
From: TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net>
Subject: Muffler bracket failure.
This message is for fellow FireFly'ers. I just experienced a failure of the forward muffler bracket mounted to the engine head after approx. 48 hr. of operation. The 1 1/4" alum. angle sheared off at the outside of the support post nearest the muffler. Thank God I happen to be checking the the isolation bushings for wear when I noticed the break. It's hard to see the brackets standing on the ground. I was standing on a stool to check the bushings because I noticed they where deforming from their normal position. I built the brackets according to the design and material provided by Kolb. Is there a problem with this design that should be known? My friend who was my mentor and inspector during the construction phase, had the same thing happen at 30 some hours on his FireFly. I thought that might have been a fluke. After evaluating the situation I decided to replace the 1 1/4"x 1/8" alum. brackets with 1" x 1/8" folded steel angles. The additional weight seemed worth it to me. I also made my own isolation bushings from shock absorber bushings which I cut to suit. These bushings are stiffer than the soft bushings provided with the kit and I'm not experiencing the creep and distortion that I had before. The rear isolation bold had cut through the old rubber bushing and was contacting the alum. bracket to which the muffler is attached. Is it just me, or have other FireFly'ers had as similar problem? Terry K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 1999
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Muffler bracket failure.
I have FF#70, and had to make new cross pcs., mainly so I could get a plug wrench down on the plugs wothout hitting the upturned edge of the L pc. I got new L angles, but could only find 1.5x1.5 instead of the 1.25 stuff. Turned them so that the upright side was to the rear. of course had to make new head bolt holes, and egg-out a crescent-shaped area for the plug. A little work where they went up to the fore/aft pc with the bushings. No sign of fractures. bn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 1999
From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Muffler bracket failure.
What kind of prop were each of you running? Any significant vibration? @ idle? @ cruise? Our FireFly has 110 hours no cracks yet but be sure I looking at it tomorrow. Any thing you two might had done differently in common to both airplanes? jerryb FireFly > >This message is for fellow FireFly'ers. I just experienced a failure of >the forward muffler bracket mounted to the engine head after approx. 48 >hr. of operation. The 1 1/4" alum. angle sheared off at the outside of >the support post nearest the muffler. > >Thank God I happen to be checking the the isolation bushings for wear >when I noticed the break. It's hard to see the brackets standing on the >ground. I was standing on a stool to check the bushings because I >noticed they where deforming from their normal position. > >I built the brackets according to the design and material provided by >Kolb. Is there a problem with this design that should be known? My >friend who was my mentor and inspector during the construction phase, >had the same thing happen at 30 some hours on his FireFly. I thought >that might have been a fluke. > >After evaluating the situation I decided to replace the 1 1/4"x 1/8" >alum. brackets with 1" x 1/8" folded steel angles. The additional >weight seemed worth it to me. I also made my own isolation bushings >from shock absorber bushings which I cut to suit. These bushings are >stiffer than the soft bushings provided with the kit and I'm not >experiencing the creep and distortion that I had before. The rear >isolation bold had cut through the old rubber bushing and was contacting >the alum. bracket to which the muffler is attached. > >Is it just me, or have other FireFly'ers had as similar problem? > >Terry K > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 1999
From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Engine for sale
Question - what will be the expected impact to take performance - run & lift off, climb? > >I am interested!! >Where do you live? I live in Lebanon MO. also in the Ozark mountains. >In fact we flew our PPC's over Lake of the Ozarks today. You can >contact me at townsend(at)webound.com about your 582. > >Our best > >Tim T. > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> >To: Kolb-list >Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 1:06 PM >Subject: Kolb-List: Engine for sale > > > >> >> T. Townsend >> I have an 80hp Jabiru on order and when it gets here I will have a >> Rotax 582 for sale. I fly a Mark 111. The Rotax has 102 hours on it >> after I flew this morning. Have had no problems in that 102 hours. >> Reason for the switch--I wear two hearing aids, want less noise. I have >> a short grass strip with wires at one end and trees on the other and >> want more climb in warm weather with two people. I am at the edge of the >> Ozark National Forest and there are few flat places around here. I am >> looking for more reliability in the Australia certified engine. I'm not >> sure what a 582 with that many hours is worth. >> Dallas Shepherd >> Norfork, Arkansas >> >> > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 1999
From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: VW engines
912 - "Geo" there expensive! > >I suspect that by "perfect" you mean cheap as there is nothing perfect about >a VW engine. In my opinion the perfect engine, but not cheap, would be the >912S followed the "mighty" but still not perfect 582. JR > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 12, 1999
Subject: JPI vs. Matronics Settlement Reached...
Dear Listers, After seven months of negotiations, JP Instruments, Inc. and Matronics have reached a mutually agreeable settlement. As most of you are aware, in February of this year, JP Instruments, Inc. alleged that Matronics' use of the trademark "FuelScan" with its aircraft fuel management system infringed upon JP Instruments, Inc's trademark "Scanner" for engine temperature indicators. JP Instruments, Inc. requested that Matronics discontinue the use of the "FuelScan" mark. After considerable negotiations, we have come to an agreement whereby JP Instruments, Inc. will purchase the FuelScan trademark and, if necessary, assist in paying the cost of Matronics' adoption of a new trademark. Matronics will continue to sell and market its aircraft fuel management system under the FuelScan trademark until a phase-out period of up to one year is completed. This will allow Matronics time to sell out its current stock of units marked with the FuelScan trademark and to develop a new trademark. While negotiations have been a bit trying at times, I would like to say that I am satisfied with the outcome, and feel that JP Instruments, Inc. has treated Matronics and me fairly in this matter. Furthermore, I would encourage you to consider JP Instruments for your aircraft avionics in the future as they manufacture an excellent product line. Finally, I would like to thank everyone from around the world for their support and consideration in this matter. I was quite moved by the support - both financial and in the form of letters and comments - that builders and pilots provided me and my company during this time. I never felt alone during this period, and so very much appreciated the encouragement from thousands of my friends! Thank you so very much! Best regards, Matt Dralle President, Matronics -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1999
From: Jerry Bidle <jbidle(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Back in the garage
Duane, Regarding your instrument mounting do you have spacing for a 2-1/4" instrument bezel. One of our airport buddies had a couple which I believe came from Sky Sports. The looked good and looked like they would work well. jerryb > >Esp. to jbidle, Re: which Mfgr made the bad (a little cheaper) EGT Gage. I >bought the gages during a Lakeland pilgramage one year and didn't get them >installed on my FireFly untill the next so the reciept I needed was >systematically lost. I bought them from LEAF who also sells the good ones I >should have bought. The manufacturer cleverly left their name off of the >instrument. I thought they were Westach and called them. They said it was not >theirs and that I was not the only one having troubles with these units. >Since I didn't have the receipt I just threw it in the junk box and ordered a >Westach which has never failed. > >Two added tips on gages: I use the nylon/set screw terminal strips sold by >Radio Shack to make the thermocouple extension connections. The set screws >can be backed off for trouble shooting and the conection is really good when >they are tight. I have never had one back off from vibration. We are dealing >with millivolts here and good connections are an absolute necessity. Also my >next instrument panel will be be designed using the square gages because when >all the gage holes were cut for the round clamp-in type the panel was pretty >flimsy. It think the four screws around each dial would help stiffen the >panel. > >Duane the plane in Tallahassee > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ajvann" <redhill(at)rose.net>
Subject: Re: JPI vs. Matronics Settlement Reached...
Date: Nov 13, 1999
Matt, It's great to hear that you and JPI have reached a settlement that you are happy with. I appreciate your recommendation and kindness towards JPI afterwards. I for one will always have a little black mark next to the name JPI for the lawsuit. Sorry, but that's just the way I feel about companies who sue over minor issues. A bunch of lawyers make some money and the public has not been well served over the issue. the settlement must have been good for you to be so good natured over all this. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1999
From: Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no>
Subject: twinstar mk1 & mk2 MTOW
hi, i'm new to the list and i'm contemplating buying a mk1 and convert it to some sort of mk2. i need to know the max take off weight of these ac. and if there is any structural difference between these two marks other than the enclosure. ole norway ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1999
From: Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no>
Subject: Re: twinstar mk1 & mk2 MTOW
Ole Noetnes wrote: > > > hi, i'm new to the list and i'm contemplating buying a mk1 and convert > it to some sort of mk2. > > i need to know the max take off weight of these ac. and if there is any > structural difference between these two marks other than the enclosure. > > ole > norway > by the way: i'd like to know at what g-load ratings these mtow figures are given at. ole > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Muffler bracket failure.
From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 13, 1999
Terry, I had my side muffler bracket fail where the bolt wore a channel through the top of the bracket. This was under the rubber isolation mounts so I couldn't see it. It must have been this was for a long time and the only way I discovered it was because I was inspecting everything for my trip to Oshkosh. After I made a new bracket, the engine idle became smoother. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar, 12 years flying >This message is for fellow FireFly'ers. I just experienced a failure >of the forward muffler bracket mounted to the engine head after approx. >48 hr. of operation. The 1 1/4" alum. angle sheared off at the outside >of the support post nearest the muffler. >Terry K ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 13, 1999
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
Bill George: The static port holes are located on the sides of the nose cone. They are 6" from the trailing edge of the nosecone and 6" up from the bottom surface of the nosecone. The objective was to get them out of any major turbulance and keep the outside of the port flush with the surface. I had tried using a fabric rivit through a small hole in one side and the result was very unreliable ASI readings. I'm not sure whether it was the the rivit protruding out into the passing air or the fact that I had it only on one side. Hope this helps... Duane the plane in Tallahassee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 13, 1999
Subject: Re: Back in the garage
jbiddle: My FireFly instrment panel has 2" dual EGT, dual CHT, tach and 3" ASI and ALT plus a Hobbs engine timer. The EGT,CHT and tach are all clamp-in and during installation I was concerned about that thin dash material not being strong enough. I have had no failures inthat area but if I build another plane I plan to try to see if I can make those four-screw gages keep the dash more ridged. Duane Mitchell, FireFly SN 007 ( I didn't pick that number ! ) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Artdog1512(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 13, 1999
Subject: Static port for ASI
MitchMnD, brother, i've had nothing but problems with accurate airspeed since i enclosed my firestar. with the shorty windshield the airspeed indicated accurately. with the cockpit enclosed the airspeed shows about 15 mph too slow , i know this because i gotta hall hanging off a lift strut. with the static vented to the inside as before doesn't work. installed a pitot/static out the nose, still not accurate. it seems that with the cockpit enclosed accurate airspeed indication is hard to get. trying to get the airspeed accurate is really pissin' me off. ............. tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1999
From: wood <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: twinstar mk1 & mk2 MTOW
> >hi, i'm new to the list and i'm contemplating buying a mk1 and convert >it to some sort of mk2. > >i need to know the max take off weight of these ac. and if there is any >structural difference between these two marks other than the enclosure. > >ole >norway > I fly a twinstar.I once flew with a 300lb guy beside me that gave almost 500lb of extra takeoff weight. I would not do it again. I now limit my passengers to 220 lbs. More than this I have a hard time keeping the nose from digging into the ground as I apply throttle. Once off the ground the little Twinstar performed quite well with the big guy in it but it sure was hard getting that first foot of altitude under me. Woody Interested in free energy? Try http://geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/lab/1135 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1999
From: "Johann G." <johann.g(at)centrum.is>
Subject: Ear drumming/vibration?
Hi list members. I have been experiencing ear drumming when flying my Firestar, from the first hour of flight. I am using the 3 blade Ivo prop with 2 1/2" spacer and a Rotax 503 DCDI engine. The ear drumming is constant, but worst at 5200-5500rpm. After reading the mail from Ralph Burlingame today, where he describes a failure of the side muffler bracket. He made a new bracket, which caused the idle to become smoother. Also have been having problems with the engine idle. Is this because of less vibration? Could this be causing my ear drumming. Or is it the Ivo prop? Could it be out of balance? I am using a good headset/helmet, but no matter how I press the ear cups to my ears or turn my head, the vibration is always there. I have mentioned this problem on the list before, but I could not find a cure for my problem, with all the suggestions from the list members, but I noticed a few days ago, that the IVO prop was on the subject list, and then this possible cause from Ralph. I hope you can help. Johann G. Iceland. Firestar II 45 hr. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 1999
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Ear drumming/vibration?
Some of the newer Ivo's have a mechanism that supposedly changes the pitch of all blades at once. Get a bubble protractor or angle checker and make sure all are at the same pitch. If that is not the problem, since you are using the 3 blade Ivo, pull one blade out (don't forget the little inserts, they only cost $5 US each)and convert it to a 2 blade for test purposes and see what happens. If the drumming goes away, it is some kind of interaction between the airflow of the airplane and the prop. If the drumming changes frequency or RPM at which it begins, it is probably still prop related. Where is your exhaust pipe outlet relative to the prop? If it is real close, are the exhaust pulses interacting with the prop? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42OldPoops) > >Hi list members. > >I have been experiencing ear drumming when flying my Firestar, from the >first hour of flight. I am using the 3 blade Ivo prop with 2 1/2" spacer >and a Rotax 503 DCDI engine. >The ear drumming is constant, but worst at 5200-5500rpm. > >After reading the mail from Ralph Burlingame today, where he describes a >failure of the side muffler bracket. He made a new bracket, which >caused the idle to become smoother. Also have been having problems with >the engine idle. >Is this because of less vibration? Could this be causing my ear >drumming. >Or is it the Ivo prop? Could it be out of balance? > >I am using a good headset/helmet, but no matter how I press the ear cups >to my ears or turn my head, the vibration is always there. > >I have mentioned this problem on the list before, but I could not find a >cure for my problem, with all the suggestions from the list members, but >I noticed a few days ago, that the IVO prop was on the subject list, and >then this possible cause from Ralph. > >I hope you can help. > >Johann G. >Iceland. >Firestar II 45 hr. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ear drumming/vibration?
From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 13, 1999
Johann, When you speak of vibration, there will always be some vibration. The question is whether the vibration is acceptable or not. You may want to try this simple experiment the next time you're up: Set your cruise at the rpm range that gives you the drumming sound, 5200-5500, and feel the airframe for excessive vibration. It's hard to explain what might be "excessive", but this might help determine if it's coming through the airframe. If you have a full enclosure, maybe the pressure changes are setting up by a resonant frequency that hums in your ears. I do know this rpm range will vibrate more than at full power. Another phenomenon that I've noticed over the years is that a quartering tailwind from the left rear will sometimes set up a vibration in the airframe that is more noticeable than usual. Like Richard (Old Poops) has suggested, try switching to a 2-blade, it won't cost you anything. What's puzzling about it is that a 3-blade is supposed to be smoother running than a 2-blade prop. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar, 12 years flying writes: >Hi list members. >I have been experiencing ear drumming when flying my Firestar, from >the first hour of flight. I am using the 3 blade Ivo prop with 2 1/2" >spacer and a Rotax 503 DCDI engine. >The ear drumming is constant, but worst at 5200-5500rpm. >Johann G. >Iceland. >Firestar II 45 hr. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Ear drumming/vibration?
From: Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 13, 1999
Johann, another thing that I remembered after I sent my first response out is that a prop needs to clean and free of bugs. A dirty prop will produce more vibration. I know this is a "no-brainer", but there are a number of guys that complain about vibration when really that's all it is. Be careful when cleaning the Ivo prop, any water or cleaning liquid that gets under the stainless prop tape will cause an "out-of-balance" condition that would make it worse until it spins itself off. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar, 12 years flying writes: >Hi list members. >I have been experiencing ear drumming when flying my Firestar, from >the first hour of flight. I am using the 3 blade Ivo prop with 2 1/2" >spacer and a Rotax 503 DCDI engine. >Johann G. >Iceland. >Firestar II 45 hr. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
My latest static port system seems to work just great. What I am most concerned with is repeatability. I want to be really sure that I keep my flying speeds above stalling during turns, on final and near touchdown. I do my best to train the seat of my pants but knowing the instrument is reliable assuring. I am suspicious of the 70 MPH shown at 6,000 RPM but I can live with some inaccuracy in the top range as long as it is is solid in the mid and lower range. With the full canopy my FireFly stalls at 34 MPH (no flaperons). Approach turns are done at 50 and best glide is about 55 according to my ROC. Duane the plane in Tallahassee. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
Tim: I know how you feel. I also started having instrument troubles when I installed my full canopy and have fiddled with this problem for months. I went over my experiences in an earlier post but the bottom line is as follows: I drilled 1/8 " holes in the middle of the flat area of both sides of the nosecone. I epoxied home made fittings on the inside of the nosecone to connect these holes to each other and to the ASI. It turned out to be the best of about 8 different trys. I am still working on interfacing the static line with my altimeter. The port on the back of the instrument doesn't wasnt to unscrew and I of course I can't really see it while it is in the panel. More later. Duane the plane in Tallahassee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
Unfortunately noticing that you wish for solid readings at low speeds, ASI are notoriously inaccurate at low speeds and improve in accuracy as speed increases. The physics are not complicated but I am not going there (ex high school teacher). JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Ear drumming/vibration?
I think some of the drumming is caused by dirty, disturbed air flow around the cabin area. The propeller is seeing an asymmetrical condition that may set up an oscillation or rhythmic flexing, a flutter of sorts. The IVO being one of the most flexible propellers I have ever seen may well be fluttering, Think of it this way--the prop blades slice through the disturbed air flow getting struck with different vector air loads and then slam into clean air, the prop loads up and flexes as it produces lift and then it slams back into the dirty air and partially unloads--back and forth over and over. Hope the Styrofoam has a good fatigue life. Seems a stiffer propeller might be in order. While normally a three blade propeller is smoother the observation by other Kolb listers that two blades are smoother on their airplanes makes sense in this light--three blades pass through the disturbed air/clean air interface more times per revolution than would a two blade prop so less drumming. I have to say that the Kolb belonging to my friend has the nosiest cabin I have ever been in but most of it is fixable as the Kolb I flew in several years back was only slightly more noisy than my Kitfox. Try a Lightspeed headset--sucks the noise right out of your head!, and you will still be able to hear the propeller come apart when the Styrofoam gives up. JR, ask me about when my spinner went through my prop last weekend! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
Take the airplane up and perform a series of stalls under the same conditions, i.e. power settings, configuration and deceleration rate. You will find a number that you can then use as a reference for everything on up the scale. Be aware that you are getting a stall speed for 1 G. The stall speed will, of course, go up in a turn and any time you put some G on the airplane. Approach speed for example will be 1.3 times the stall speed in light winds. To determine its accuracy you can use a GPS. Fly a triangular pattern or fly upwind/downwind legs. Do this at some safe speed above stall, at normal cruise power and at max cruise. Record the averaged numbers for each speed and you will have a good handle on your ASI. Bill George Mk-3 582 Powerfin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1999
From: wood <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
> >Tim: I know how you feel. I also started having instrument troubles when I >installed my full canopy and have fiddled with this problem for months. I >went over my experiences in an earlier post but the bottom line is as >follows: I drilled 1/8 " holes in the middle of the flat area of both sides >of the nosecone. I epoxied Seems like a lot of work. Whats the matter with the old tried and true method of adding another pito type tube under the original but this one has a closed end and holes drilled in the side. Are we trying to reinvent the wheel? Woody Interested in free energy? Try http://geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/lab/1135 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: SmartPlug
>In the OCTOBER issue of Sport Aviation is a notice about a new ignition >device which the company Aqualytic Technologies of Sandpoint, ID >believes is capable of replacing magnetoes and other types of ignition >systems. It screws into a standard spark plug hole. It incorporates >a small precombustion chamber containing a catalyst that ignites >the engines fuel/air mixture. >It produced normal power on 87 octane and 100 LL avgas and picked up >75 rpm using Jet -A in a Continental O-200 ! If this is thrue and >if it would be a STC, or equal, this is a dream for us in Europe >with our expensive avgas. >Any comments ? Be SKEPTICAL . . . seems this idea was floated as SBIR grant with NASA for last year. First phase grants are generally for one year with a potential for follow-on work several years later. Phase I is generally $100,000 while phase II grants of $600,000 are possible. The thing to watch for is the awarding of a Phase II grant. Did a quick search of the 'net and found the following URL's that refer to to the Aqualytic ignition product. http://sbir.gsfc.nasa.gov/SBIR-abstracts/98/sbir_html/980715.html http://www.cda.net/stories/1998/Oct/29/S474456.asp http://www.coe.isu.edu/engrg/ethanol.html I recall dozens of stories about 60+ mpg carburetors, ignition systems that boost power/mileage by umpteen percent, fuel processing systems offering amazing "improvements" in performance, etc. One guy even made national news about 40 years ago selling a tablet that would convert a tank of water into a fuel suitable for running your car. Don't get me wrong. I wish this guy all the success that the laws of physics are willing to let him have. However, just because an agency of the US Government chooses to spend $100,000 on any sort of program does not lend credance to its value. I can think of $60M that is largely going down the tubes right now on the AGATE program . . . but that's another story. Keep your eyes and ears open, stroke the web with your favorite search engines from time to time and see what happens. In the mean time, I would be very cautious about offers to buy any stock in the company . . . Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================= http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1999
From: Bob Summers <solarbob(at)gte.net>
Subject: Please remove
Sirs: Please remove my address from your list as I find the communication of little or no help. All I really want to do is let Kolb owners know I want to buy a twinstar but this has eluded me thus far! Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1999
From: "Johann G." <johann.g(at)centrum.is>
Subject: Ear drumming help
Hi list members. Thank you for the help on my ear drumming problem. Richard Pike: My IVO prop is the ground adjustable and all the pitch should be the same. But I will check the pitch with an angle checker. I will definitely try using only two blades. The exhaust outlet is facing back to the prop with 9" space between. This could be interfering the airflow around the prop. Maybe a 90 angle at the end of the exhaust could cure this? Ralph Burlingame: I have been keeping it clean, but the exhaust soot does tend to build up fast around that area on the prop. The ear drumming is still there after I clean the prop, but I notice that a clean prop does run smoother. Every small thing can add up to create this acoustic problem in my ears. I will check for the vibration in the airframe on my next flight. Mark: My Firestar has the full enclosure, but I do not use the plastic cover around the rear seat, supplied by Kolb. I did try it and it did not make any difference. JR: I am sure that all the disturbed air around the back of the cage will cause some flexing and vibration of the propeller, and also when the propeller passes the trailing edge of thewing, but I am so surprised that no one else has experienced this same problem on their Kolb Firestar. I know that there are some out there with the same configuration as I am using, i.e. Rotax 503 and the IVO prop 3 blade. with full enclosure. What is a Lightspeed headset? JR: Please tell us about the spinner problem you experienced last weekend. Thank you again for all the support. Johann G. Iceland. Firestar II 45 hr. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Artdog1512(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Static port for ASI
In a message dated 11/14/99 2:16:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, duesouth(at)iname.com writes: << Seems like a lot of work. Whats the matter with the old tried and true method of adding another pito type tube under the original but this one has a closed end and holes drilled in the side. Are we trying to reinvent the wheel? >> woody, i have a pitot/static tube sticking 6" out the nose of my firestar. why 6"? per kolb. the static tube is above the pitot tube. not accurate. i've tried it with the static tube out in the wind and i've tried it with a cover over the static tube to keep it out of the wind. still not accurate, 15 mph too slow. i've got the trusty hall meter hanging off the lift strut so i can depend on that. its frustrating flying along with the airspeed showing 30 mph and the hall meter showing 45 mph . my kingdom for a solution to this problem . .............. tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Muffler bracket failure.
In a message dated 11/12/99 8:39:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tkrolfe(at)epix.net writes: << The 1 1/4" alum. angle sheared off at the outside of the support post nearest the muffler. >> Terry: Your experience is not a fluke, the exact same thing happened to me on the muffler mount for the 503 on my mark 2, at roughly the same total time in service. I was at first concerned about Kolb's design, but in closer inspection I saw that the crack had propagated from a nick left when I drilled the hole in the bracket material. I refabricated the part in the recomended aluminum material and deburred the drilled holes and polished them to be sure they were very very smooth. Inside the hole and on the surface. That same part has been in service now for over 300 hours without further cracking. My guess is that your muffler bracket was drilled and left rough. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Ear drumming help
Gosh, I thought everyone had heard of Lightspeed headsets. It is an ANR type headset that is very effective at removing low frequecy drumming and they are relatively inexpensive--try the 15K for a few flights and I bet you like--do you have a radio and intercom? I suspect most have the drumming you speak of. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
Install aproper pitot static system. Come of the static port with polyflow tubing--run a length of it out your tailboom and somewhere near the aft end put a static port or perhaps even leave it open in the tube. Somewhere before it goes into the tailboom "Y" off it with a "T" fitting and perhaps run it to the bottom of your pod with another length of polyflow tubing. The idea is to reference ambient pressure for your ASI static port and the "Y" arrangement will allow discrepancys to balance out--small ones anyway. Static left open in the cabin--forget it--my friend has been having the similar problem--he thinks he has been cruising at 70MPH and I keep telling him my airpseed when along side him is showing 55/60 at best. My airspeed has been calibrated and is reasonably accurate in that speed range. GPS is good for calibration but a timed triangle of known size is better. Do not forget to get your stall speeds etc with the new arrangement--they could be very different. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
Woody: I call the pitot tube with the static tube attached "the Stearman type". Yes I tried that several iterations back but it required another 1/4"+ hole in the nose adjacent to the existing pitot tube hole. For the test I taped a piece of 1/8" tube from the static tube at the nose around the side and up into the back of the ASI. Maybe the static tube was too close to the pitot tube or the whole rig did not stick far enough out into the undisturbed air but the readings were all way too high. The overall amount of work required to arrive at the final solution was of course more than I expected but the final hook-up was fairly easy. I was hoping to save somebody from going through the development phase as I did. I just read my previous post and found it garbled. It should have said I am now trying to hook the altimeter up to the static system but can't get the static port plug fitting off of the back side of the altimeter. Any ideas out there ? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 1999
Subject: Re: Muffler bracket failure.
Acting on this thread I gave my 477 muffler bracket a close up inspection this afternoon. I found that after 50 hours the rear grommet bolt was loose enough to allow the washer to turn freely and the front one was not much tighter. I also noticed that the washer under the nut was in contact with the aluminum bracket. This is an 1 1/4" washer and being in contact could allow some of that 6,000 ~ vibration to be transmitted to the bracket. There were no cracks in the bracket. I have packed some smaller washers in my truck and will order some new grommets in the morning.... Is this a great list or what? Duane the plane in Tallahassee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1999
From: Brian Steiner <bks(at)netcom.ca>
Subject: Re: Ear drumming help
I did not read the first message on this subject so I do not know what kind of drive you are using. If you are using a C drive that is an older version it may have a rubber donut that is too hard. Some of the earlier ones came with a rating of 75, I replaced mine with a 55. I have forgot what the rating meant other than a hardness rating. I have a much quieter and smother running 582 with C drive after changing the rubber donut. Kim Steiner Saskatchewan, Canada "John G." wrote: > > > Hi list members. > > Thank you for the help on my ear drumming problem. > Richard Pike: My IVO prop is the ground adjustable and all the pitch > should be the same. But I will check the pitch with an angle checker. I > will definitely try using only two blades. > The exhaust outlet is facing back to the prop with 9" space between. > This could be interfering the airflow around the prop. Maybe a 90 angle > at the end of the exhaust could cure this? > > Ralph Burlingame: I have been keeping it clean, but the exhaust soot > does tend to build up fast around that area on the prop. The ear > drumming is still there after I clean the prop, but I notice that a > clean prop does run smoother. > Every small thing can add up to create this acoustic problem in my ears. > > I will check for the vibration in the airframe on my next flight. > > Mark: My Firestar has the full enclosure, but I do not use the plastic > cover around the rear seat, supplied by Kolb. I did try it and it did > not make any difference. > > JR: I am sure that all the disturbed air around the back of the cage > will cause some flexing and vibration of the propeller, and also when > the propeller passes the trailing edge of thewing, but I am so surprised > that no one else has experienced this same problem on their Kolb > Firestar. > I know that there are some out there with the same configuration as I am > using, i.e. Rotax 503 and the IVO prop 3 blade. with full enclosure. > What is a Lightspeed headset? > JR: Please tell us about the spinner problem you experienced last > weekend. > > Thank you again for all the support. > > Johann G. > Iceland. > Firestar II 45 hr. > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 1999
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
> >> >>Tim: I know how you feel. I also started having instrument troubles when I >>installed my full canopy and have fiddled with this problem for months. I >>went over my experiences in an earlier post but the bottom line is as >>follows: I drilled 1/8 " holes in the middle of the flat area of both sides >>of the nosecone. I epoxied > > Seems like a lot of work. Whats the matter with the old tried and true >method of adding another pito type tube under the original but this one has >a closed end and holes drilled in the side. Are we trying to reinvent the >wheel? > > > >Woody That is what I am using, and it has been trouble free from day one. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42OldPoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce McElhoe" <brucem(at)theworks.com>
Subject: Airspace Rules
Date: Nov 15, 1999
Fellow Kolbers, Those of us that fly "legal" ultralights without an N-number have different operating rules than GA airplanes. Unfortunately, Part 103 regulations are not always in plain English. Can someone enlighten us on interpreting the FAR (103.17) that requires prior authorization for ultralights to fly "...within the lateral boundaries of the surface area of Class E airspace designated for an airport"? I expect this regulation refers to surface-based Class E airspace (used to be called a control zone) and not to transition areas that are Class E also ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com>
Subject: Re: Airspace Rules
Date: Nov 15, 1999
Norfolk, NE's airport is surface class E, and I went through the same thing with our ultralight club. It's best to approach the airport manager, and with his blessing, go to the airport authority, and get theirs also. We had to go to the Minneapolis Center for our authorization to fly ULs here, but they went on the recommendation of the manager and board, so it was relatively painless. So it's best to have all your ducks in a row before you ask. It took us about 2 months to get it all done. I can scan our request (actually sent on the Airport Authority's letterhead :>) and the FAA's response letter and send to you privately if you like. J.D. Stewart NCF Communications, Inc. http://www.ncfcomm.com UltraFun AirSports http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports Challenger Owners Website and e-mail list administrator http://challenger.maverick.net NE Nebraska Flying Club http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc ICQ # 22494032 Fellow Kolbers, > > Those of us that fly "legal" ultralights without an N-number have different > operating rules than GA airplanes. Unfortunately, Part 103 regulations are > not always in plain English. Can someone enlighten us on interpreting the > FAR (103.17) that requires prior authorization for ultralights to fly > "...within the lateral boundaries of the surface area of Class E airspace > designated for an airport"? > > I expect this regulation refers to surface-based Class E airspace (used to > be called a control zone) and not to transition areas that are Class E also > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
Date: Nov 15, 1999
Subject: Re: Airspace Rules
Bruce McElhoe wrote: > > > Fellow Kolbers, > > Those of us that fly "legal" ultralights without an N-number have different > operating rules than GA airplanes. Unfortunately, Part 103 regulations are > not always in plain English. Can someone enlighten us on interpreting the > FAR (103.17) that requires prior authorization for ultralights to fly > "...within the lateral boundaries of the surface area of Class E airspace > designated for an airport"? > > I expect this regulation refers to surface-based Class E airspace (used to > be called a control zone) and not to transition areas that are Class E also It does indeed refer to surface area Class E airspace. This is designated by a segmented magenta circle around the airport, and in this case Class E airspace goes all the way to the ground. This means that there is some sort of ATC facility at the field, and that there is some (usually small) chance of IFR arrivals or departures. The facility is often merely automated weather information. Note that any time this is not in operation, the surface Class E goes away and Class E has a floor of 700 AGL with the airport surface Class G. As far as the meaning of elements of Part 103, most ambiguos things are clarified in AC 103-6 and AC 103-7 (particularly the latter). gil leiter MAPLEWOOD, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Waligroski, Greg" <gwaligro(at)ball.com>
Subject: Static Port
Date: Nov 15, 1999
On the thread of static ports and locations. I have a FS2 with a semi enclosed cockpit and what has been an accurate airspeed indication over most of the speed range (as verified with a GPS). The pitot source is the typical tube sticking right out of the center of the nosepod and inflight actually appears to point down slightly. The static is a 1/4" aluminum tube that sticks down through the nosepod on the left bottom just ahead of the most forward steel cage member. An inch below where it exits the nosepod it curves aft paralell to the nosepod surface for about 2". On the 2" section, 2 x 1/8" holes are drilled into the side of the tube about 1" from the very end. The end of the 1/4" tube is open and on the inside it is hooked into the static port of the airspeed and altimeter via some fuel tubing. It seems to work fine and I credit the installation to the builder Bruce Harrison. I think I have sketches I can email to anyone who requests. Gregg Waligroski Boulder, Colorado ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1999
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Flux remover
>Here's an unsolicited tip for you and everybody building the microencoder. >Don't use flux remover. The stuff that I had from Radio Shack in the can >with the little brush on the end just smears stuff around and makes a big >mess. After talking with RMI, I used lacquer thinner (the same ole stuff >you clean your spray can out with, I used medium drying, but they say any >kind is OK). You REALLY flush the board with this, and the flux comes off >easily. The only caution is to not leave the stuff on there for very long >(don't let it soak). Then just blow it off the surface. I'll let you all in on another "secret" board cleaner product. Wall-Mart stocks a carburetor cleaner that's like most of the other carburetor cleaners . . . lacquer thinner in an aerosol can. Of the three brands in my local store, they range in price from $2.50 down to $0.88 . . . as near as I can tell, they're all the same stuff . . . We buy the 0.88/can by the case and have been using it for board cleaning for the past 15 or so years. Wash off liberally then use hair dryer on LOW to evaporate both thinner and WATER that shows up as condensed humidity when the board cools under evaporation of the thinnner. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================= http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)gis.net>
Subject: Static port for ASI
Date: Nov 15, 1999
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1999
From: Warren Gretz <gretz_aero(at)h2net.net>
list-aviation , list-avionics , list-beech , list-cessna , list-ez , list-glasair , list-homebuilt , list-kolb , list-lancair , list-piper , list-rocket , list-rvcanada , list-seaplane , list-tailwind , list-warbird , list-yak , list-zenith
Subject: Heated Pitot Tubes
Greetings to the List, I just received a new supply of heated pitot tubes. They are the PH502-12CR (this used to be called the AN5812), and the AN5814-1. Both styles of these pitot tubes are 12 volt and only come in a chrome finish. The PH502-12CR has only the dynamic source for the air speed indicator, but the AN5814 has a heated static source as well and it looks good. I sell the PH502-12CR for $135 and the AN5814 is $199. I also sell the mounting bracket kits to hold the pitot to your aircraft. These are also available in the same chrome finish as the pitot tubes to make a beautiful installation. These mouning bracket kits come with all the parts needed for the installation and come with some detailed instructions and photos of the process. This kit will work on either a metal airplane or composite. The price of the mounting bracket kits is $105. All of my prices INCLUDE shipping in the US. I have other products that may be of interest to you. If you would like a set of flyers on my products, provide me with you US Postal Mail address and I will send you a set. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero 3664 East Lake Drive Littleton, CO 80121 303-770-3811 gretz_aero(at)h2net.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1999
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Airspace Rules
This question came up at one of our EAA chapter meetings one night, and since we meet in the control tower, it was pretty easy to sort out. We just called the watch desk at ATL center and asked the Chief Controller. Then we did the same thing with ZID, Indy center and asked the same thing. Similar answer. Most class E airspace will underlie either an approach control or center airspace. If it is center airspace, just call them on the appropriate frequency and ask. We don't have anything like that at TRI, so have no opinion on what various other approach controls might say, the local Supervisor demurred from having an opinion, but calling on the frequency and asking is always the easiest way, it doesn't require the controller to make long term commitments. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (42OldPoops) > >Fellow Kolbers, > >Those of us that fly "legal" ultralights without an N-number have different >operating rules than GA airplanes. Unfortunately, Part 103 regulations are >not always in plain English. Can someone enlighten us on interpreting the >FAR (103.17) that requires prior authorization for ultralights to fly >"...within the lateral boundaries of the surface area of Class E airspace >designated for an airport"? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot Tubes
Warren Gretz wrote: > > > Greetings to the List, > I just received a new supply of heated pitot tubes. They are the > Hey Kolbers and Big Lar: We better hurry and get us one or two of these heated pitot tubes for our Kolbs. Now, I wonder if they would double for cabin heat also??? :-) john h (Recuperating from 4 days of pleasant flying on the Gulf Of Mexico with a real nice group of people. Maybe Mike Highsmith will give us an after action report on our long weekend. We did nothing more than fly, eat, and sleep. Got up early and went to bed early. Weather was nearly perfect. Everybodies airplanes performed their best and nobody got hurt.) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
Date: Nov 15, 1999
>depend on that. its frustrating flying along with the airspeed showing 30 mph >and the hall meter showing 45 mph . my kingdom for a solution to this problem >. .............. tim Are you sure the problem isnt with the AS gauge itself... If you used a 6" pitot static system it should provid good data. I would have the gage calibrated. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Flux remover
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Cool ! ! ! Thank you, but why didn't you ever answer my battery question ?? Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 4:19 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Flux remover > > > >Here's an unsolicited tip for you and everybody building the microencoder. > >Don't use flux remover. The stuff that I had from Radio Shack in the can > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Subject: Re: Static port for ASI
Ahoy, Defy me eh mate. Well shiver me timbers but last time I went flying there was this phenomena called wind. Whether you perform your calibrations with the GPS or a stop watch along two way straight line or around a triangle of approx 5 miles or so per side you still have to account for the wind but, alas mate, waves are not our concern lest we crash into the deep briney. Blow me down. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)gis.net>
Subject: Static port for ASI
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Aye JR such a fool i am to assume that if you were comparing flying speeds with a wing man that you would be dealingwith the same wind speeds!Live and learn , Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Terry <tswartz(at)desupernet.net>
Subject: Heated Pitot Tubes
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Larry I used the L shaped pitot/static tube from A/C Spruce on my MK III, and it has been very accurate for me whether the cabin was partially open or fully enclosed. It is mounted under the nose cone and extends 2 to 3 inches in front of the nose guard that is used on the MK III. Keep it simple. Terry On Tuesday, November 16, 1999 3:10 AM, Larry Bourne [SMTP:larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net] wrote: > > John, you really know how to hurt a guy dontcha ?? I'm watching this pitot > tube mess with dismay, cause I bought (long ago) the L shaped pitot/static > tubes from A/C Spruce. Now, from watching all this, I really doubt if > they're gonna be long enuf to get out ahead of the compression zone in front > of the nose. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1999
From: "Johann G." <johann.g(at)centrum.is>
Subject: Re: Ear drumming help
Hi Brian, I am using the old B drive 1:2.58. Hope to replace it someday with the E drive with electric starter. Thanks for your help, Johann G. Iceland. Brian Steiner wrote: > > I did not read the first message on this subject so I do not know what > kind of drive you are using. If you are using a C drive that is an > older version it may have a rubber donut that is too hard. Some of the > earlier ones came with a rating of 75, I replaced mine with a 55. I > have forgot what the rating meant other than a hardness rating. I have > a much quieter and smother running 582 with C drive after changing the > rubber donut. > > Kim Steiner > > Saskatchewan, Canada > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot Tubes
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Thanks for the good news. What a relief. Lar. Do not Archive. ----- Original Message ----- From: Terry <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 6:30 AM Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Heated Pitot Tubes > > Larry > > I used the L shaped pitot/static tube from A/C Spruce on my MK III, and it > has been very accurate for me whether the cabin was partially open or fully > enclosed. It is mounted under the nose cone and extends 2 to 3 inches in > front of the nose guard that is used on the MK III. Keep it simple. > > Terry > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org>
Subject: Static port for ASI
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Chris: To what do you attribute the longevity and "clean" running of your 503. Oil? Mixture? Jetting? Clean living? Luck? Bruce E. Harrison -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 7:46 PM Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Static port for ASI ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vic Worthington" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/15/99
Date: Nov 16, 1999
If you haven't yet covered you Kolb make sure you check out Aircraft Finishing Supply in Ennis Montana. http://www.aircraftfinishing.com They have a water based system that you use inside without all the harsh fumes. I just got back from one of their weekend schools and I am going to finish my Kolb using their system. The school is well worth the cost. Rocketman ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Subject: Instrument Panel
From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Big Lar, What material did you use for the instrument panel that you mounted on the $50 worth of Cessna shock mounts? How much did you cut out of the fiber glas panal? One large hole or individual holes for each instrument/radio? I am planning something on the same order. L. Ray Baker Lake Butler, Fl Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EnaudZ(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Subject: oil 4 912
Hello Kolb List I would like to know what oil and filter you all are using on 912 with clutch,no Im not putting it on my firestar. FS2 503 120hr Duane zollinger rittman oh ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1999
From: Bil Ragsdale <bilrags@world-net.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/15/99
Vic, if this is the stuff called System 3 or System III, I would suggest you be careful. I bought a crashed Kolb and have just repaired the dings. Along the way I had to repair (actually lengthen) a wing tip. All I wanted to do was to replace the wing tip fabric. To repair poly-fiber you must remove all the finish down to the poly fiber and poly tack the new fabric in place over a rib that you then rib stitch (or rivet down). I couldn't get the stuff off. Result? I had to completely recover the wing. I now have to make some repairs to the fuselage fabric. I'm sure not looking forward to completely recovering that also. I tried to get to the aircraftfinishing.com web site but can't get through. If you find out how to make fabric repairs that are acceptable to poly fiber I'd sure like to know about it. Could save me a load of dough and time. Thanks, Bil Vic Worthington wrote: > > If you haven't yet covered you Kolb make sure you check out Aircraft > Finishing Supply in Ennis Montana. http://www.aircraftfinishing.com > They have a water based system that you use inside without all the harsh > fumes. > > I just got back from one of their weekend schools and I am going to finish > my Kolb using their system. The school is well worth the cost. > > Rocketman > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1999
From: Tom Kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Subject: Aircraft Finishing System
<http://www.aircraftfinishing.com >> AFS is not System III. I've been to two of their hands-on workshops and it appears much easier to repair than Poly-Fiber. Virtually all of our local EAA chapter members who restore antique aircraft have switched to AFS from Poly-Fiber (both methods use the same fabric by the way). Paul VonLindern and Henry Hoye are locals building a Mk 3. Their total prior experience was one AFS weekend workshop and their first time results are showplane quality. I'll be using AFS if/when I ever get to covering my Firestar. Tom Kuffel Whitefish, Montana PS: If the trunk lines by Ennis are anything like the "infrastructure" in this part of the state try to be patient with their website. It's not their fault if it's slow. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Can I send pictures to a juno address ?? Seems like I heard about a problem with them. Basically, I cut the fiberglass away, and left about a 1" or so rim, to have something to attach to. Then made a practise panel out of white fiberglass wall panel, and cut dummy instrument faces out of posterboard, and used those to shift around and figure out arrangement. Wound up making 2 of those. Cut the real panel out of .060 aluminum sheet, and had a local shop give it a face of wood grain formica. Looks real good and I don't have to worry about varnish. The finished panel is very stiff, and is reasonably light. Regular hole saws worked fine for the holes, but you MUST use a drill press, and take your time. A retired Canadian machinist friend showed me the trick of coating the cutting teeth with paraffin wax every few seconds of cutting. Keeps the teeth cleaner, easier to clean, and cutting is MUCH faster, smoother, and cleaner. I can't thank him enough. Freehand practise holes in scrap were a disaster, use the drill press and clamps. I'm very glad I experimented first. Biggest hassle was getting everything lined up nice and square, and all those screw holes even and square, etc. 'Bout went cross eyed, and the further I got, the more I worried about making a boo-boo. Then you get to wire the awful thing, and make wiring diagrams, and such. Whooo-eee, would I hate to have to do that over again. Got LOTS of pics if you wanna see 'em. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 10:31 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Instrument Panel > > Big Lar, > > What material did you use for the instrument panel that you mounted on > the $50 worth of Cessna shock mounts? How much did you cut out of the > fiber glas panal? One large hole or individual holes for each > instrument/radio? > I am planning something on the same order. > > L. Ray Baker > Lake Butler, Fl > Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1999
From: Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: digital compass info 3rd try
Larry & gang, I'm having trouble sending this out, sorry if this is a duplicate. Found the catalog! Its called "Heartland America", 1-800-229-2901, www.heartlandamerica.com The below compass is item # PC-9100, cost is $49.99, free shipping. It also has a timer mode. ...Richard S Richard wrote: > Larry, I looked high & low & even under & can't find that catalog. Don't > remember the name either. Sky Vision has it for $95 & Damark (800-328-31000) > has it for $69.99, called Co-Pilot LC, item # B-40360-708585. It does have > backlighting. It has 1 degree increments, not 1/2. If I find the other catalog > I'll post it. ...Richard S > > Larry Bourne wrote: > > > > > Which catalog ?? I just looked in Cabela's Fall '99 book, and they only > > show the "Brunton" for $79.99. It looks real good, but................! > > What a co-incidence. Last Saturday, I met John Woods from San Diego at > > Borrego Springs, and was really admiring his Firestar. He's done a show > > quality job all the way through, including the trailer. Among the many > > things to admire was the digital compass, which I hadn't really thought much > > about. He's very pleased with his, and spoke highly of it; got me thinking > > about it; now look at the thread we've had going the past couple of days. > > Great minds, eh ?? Big Lar. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> > > To: > > Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 5:02 PM > > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Digital Compass... > > > > > > > > Listers, I seen one in a sportsman catalog for $49, it read in 1/2 degree > > > increments, it even automatically compensated for any disturbances due to > > iron > > > obects ect., it stored the tracking data & allowed you to back track & > > find your > > > way home, its format was like a compass card that gave an analog picture > > and also > > > a digital readout. I thought is was backlighted but not sure on that. I > > might > > > ask Santa for it for Christmas. ...Richard > > > > > > WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Greetings > > > > Last weekend I updated my builder's log and also added more pictures of > > > > Dave's FireStar. You can see a picture of his panel, it has a digital > > compass. > > > > > > > > Will Uribe > > > > > > > > http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html > > > > Will.U(at)voicestream.net > > > > El Paso, TX but working in Arlington, TX... wishing I was home building > > my > > > > FireStar. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Digital Compass...
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Fantastic. Thank you Richard. I was all set to spend $80.00 for the Dunton. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 6:50 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Digital Compass... > > Larry & gang, > Found the catalog! Its called "Heartland America", 1-800-229-2901, > www.heartlandamerica.com The below compass is item # PC-9100, cost is $49.99, free > shipping. It also has a timer mode. ...Richard S > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1999
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Beach Run
>Hey, >Don't forget about the Beach Run if the weather is good. Let me know so I >can make arrangements. We may have a pile show up. >Firehawk Tell us how the "Beech Run" turned out, sorry I missed it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel
From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Big Lar, Thanks for the input. Please send any available pictures. For a mere $30 per year Juno adds the ability to send and receive attachments. L. Ray Baker Lake Butler, Fl Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Ramblings
Date: Nov 16, 1999
Couple of things kind of have me going right now. #1, I'm running out of stalling on covering my plane, so got out this old iron, and started to calibrate it. Guess I've got about 5 or 6 hours now, hovering over that awful thing, and still only 1/2 done. Temps don't seem to stay put, or be repeatable. Is there a simple way to do this ?? #2, as many of you know, I'm building Vamoose on a 7' x 40' screened porch on a mobile home in a retirement/snowbird park. Snowbirds are now in town. Recently moved the plane into the driveway, to have room to spread the wings, and ran into an unforeseen problem. These 'birds, mostly Canadians, and really great, sociable people have been following this mighty project with great interest - many bringing friends and visiting family by to show off the local nut. Last weekend, I had it 1/2 in the driveway, 1/2 in the street, with the wings up, and starting to install the center gap cover (??) seal (??). Anyway, the between the wings cover. I'm installing it permanently, ala Ron Christensen, and running into a fair tangle. Time consuming too. Anyway, soon had a procession of curious people hearing the word, and coming to take a look. Being a motor mouth myself, (has any one noticed ??) you can imagine how much work got done. Sure was fun though. One ole boy, a retired hot dog (! ! !) salesman from Seattle, got to looking at the tail end of it, where I've started mounting the folded wing attachment points, and wanted to know what the h--- is this. When I told him, he said something like, why don't you make a shaped and padded bar to fit on the steel tube that holds the aluminum tail wheel support bar. Set the leading edge of a wing on each side of it, and it'd be much more solid and secure than the pin and socket we have now. It'd hold the wing a lot higher off the ground too. Makes sense to me. How about you ???? #3, I want to install my radio antenna the way Erich Weaver did - inside the nose cone ahead of my feet, with the excess length sticking out of a grommeted hole in the top of the nose. It is FAR and AWAY the very best installation I have seen, and I'm gonna copy him. It even gives a good place to tie your yaw string. Erich's already said OK, and I say thanks. For a ground plane, I have a large piece of heavy aluminum foil that I plan on gluing to the entire lower portion of the nose cone. My questions are: will the foil be sufficient for a good ground plane, and does the antenna have to actually be mounted solidly on the ground plane, or can it sit on a bracket several inches above it ?? The fancy rudder trim assembly I invented is pretty much in the way of a simple installation of the antenna. As a parting "by the way", I ordered the prop, and exhaust system this morning. Another 1000 dollar bill gone. That's 26 of them now, and prob'ly 1 more to go. This is starting (??) to hurt. Well, that's more than enough B.S. for now. Later all. Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: digital compass info 3rd try
Date: Nov 16, 1999
You're in good shape, Richard. Came thru all 3 times. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 8:02 PM Subject: Kolb-List: digital compass info 3rd try > > Larry & gang, > I'm having trouble sending this out, sorry if this is a duplicate. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 1999
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Airspace Rules
I'm glad you brought up this question Bruce, as I've often wondered about it too. From the responses here, is it an accurate summary to say that flying an ultralight in Class E, regardless of it's floor level ( ground, 700, or 1200agl) requires prior authorization? I guess I'd also like to know if there is any communication requirement for other light aircraft (is that FAR 91?). Maybe from flying in small planes (cessnas, etc) with friends, I get used to the idea that Class E doesn't matter, i.e. do what you want. On the other hand, maybe that's exactly the sort of thing that irritates the GA rated folks. My only lame justifictions have been that a) my Kolb doesn't appear on radar any different than a Cub (i.e. they can't know I'm breaking the rule), and b), flying thru E space at 1000 agl seems like a small sin if it is a safer gliding altitude for me and I know the area is very uncrowded and very good vis. Also, there is the c) aspect to my reasoning -- that is, I've never asked anyone before right now if that actually is against the FARs. Is it? -Ben Ransom > > Fellow Kolbers, > > > > Those of us that fly "legal" ultralights without > an N-number have different > > operating rules than GA airplanes. Unfortunately, > Part 103 regulations are > > not always in plain English. Can someone > enlighten us on interpreting the > > FAR (103.17) that requires prior authorization for > ultralights to fly > > "...within the lateral boundaries of the surface > area of Class E airspace > > designated for an airport"? > > > > I expect this regulation refers to surface-based > Class E airspace (used to > > be called a control zone) and not to transition > areas that are Class E also > > > It does indeed refer to surface area Class E > airspace. This is > designated by a segmented magenta circle around the > airport, and in this > case Class E airspace goes all the way to the > ground. This means that > there is some sort of ATC facility at the field, and > that there is some > (usually small) chance of IFR arrivals or > departures. The facility is > often merely automated weather information. Note > that any time this is > not in operation, the surface Class E goes away and > Class E has a floor > of 700 AGL with the airport surface Class G. > > As far as the meaning of elements of Part 103, most > ambiguos things are > clarified in AC 103-6 and AC 103-7 (particularly the > latter). > > > gil leiter > MAPLEWOOD, MN > > > > > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > > Settlement... > http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html > > > > > ===== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Beach Run
Date: Nov 17, 1999
Well guys, you just wouldn't have believed it. I'm still basking in the after glow of 4 days in the air with people that are as much fun to be with as you think it could get. Of course I think, that every time we do the Beach Run it can't get any better, then it does. John H (Hawk 36)(Kolb MKIII)called on Wed. Said he'd be here Thur. PM. I met him in the air that afternoon right over the beach banner port as he was coming in over West Bay from the North. After a few gigs and jives and tag the tail of the new dog, Hawk 36 did a low pass and came around for a short field landing on our 900' strip to the north over 100' tall trees. "Don't forget about landing on the west side of the middle" I thought, ups too late. Hawk 36 beat and frammed right down the roughest part where the banner planes always beat it out. No problem though with those big 850 tires pretty "Ms. Pfer" wears, once down she was stuck. I'm right behind in my Ferguson FII (Firehawk). I land a little to the west where it's slightly smoother. Hawk 36 finds his spot and I pull up to my hanger space. It must have been 4:00 by this time. "Hey, how in the world are you? I'm so glad you could make it. Trip go okay? What's with this not having a radio? We'll get you one while your here". We began to unload Ms. Pfer. After John unloaded his house, his bed, a week of cloths, and the kitchen sink, I began to wonder just how he got all the stuff in there to go all the way to Alaska and back. We stuck some of it in the hanger and loaded the rest in the pick-up truck. Now it was time to relax by the pool at my place, and wait for Cindy (my best 2/3s part) to get home from work (as we say around here, "Someones got to do it") so we can go to Uncle Ernies on beautiful St. Andrews Bay for dinner. The night was clear the temperature was perfect at Uncle Ernies and the smooth water on the bay told us we were in for a good day to fly on Friday. After that meal, and "The Temple of DOOM" on home theater, it is time to get some sleep. 1st Day Are you salivating yet? More later, Firehawk > >Tell us how the "Beech Run" turned out, sorry I missed it. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
Date: Nov 17, 1999
Subject: Re: Aircraft Finishing System
Tom Kuffel wrote: > > > < stuff called System 3 or System III .. repair poly-fiber you must remove > all the finish down to the poly fiber .. couldn't get the stuff off .. > Ennis Montana .. http://www.aircraftfinishing.com >> Where did you get the idea that to repair PolyFiber covered aircraft that "...you must remove all the finish down to the poly fiber..."? You don't have to remove ANYTHING at all. Just scuff the surface in the area of the damage, apply fabric patch with PolyBrush (NOT PolyTac), heat shrink fabric loose areas, and then apply the same coats as the rest of the structure had. Can be easily rubbed out to blend in the repaired area with the old. Could'nt get it off? What were you using, water? If one does want to get it off it wipes off VERY easily using MEK. The above applies to PolyTone as the final color coat. If you used AeroThane as the final color coat than that changes everything. AeroThane, like ALL cross linked urethanes is no longer soluable and cannot be removed. It is also much more difficult to repair. gil leiter MAPLEWOOD, MN The above ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
Date: Nov 17, 1999
Subject: Re: Airspace Rules
Ben Ransom wrote: > > > I'm glad you brought up this question Bruce, as I've > often wondered about it too. From the responses here, > is it an accurate summary to say that flying an > ultralight in Class E, regardless of it's floor level > ( ground, 700, or 1200agl) requires prior > authorization? NO! ULs have to have authorization to fly in surface area Class E, but no authorization is required to fly in "regular" Class E. Between airports the floor of Class E airspace is usually 1100 AGL. As one approaches a non towered airport the floor drops to 700 AGL. Such airports are marked with a broad magenta band, "hard" on one side and "fuzzy" on the other. Below all such Class E airspace is Class G airspace. If a non towered airport has dashed magenta band (as opposed to the broad magenta band) then it is Surface Area Class E, and goes all the way to the ground. Here we must have authorization. Surface area Class E exists because some sort of ATC facility is available at the airport and some IFR traffic might be present. This is often merely automated weather reporting facility. In the midwest and west most of the airspace between airports is Class G except for the Class E airways. In the eastern part of the US this airspace between airports is almost all Class E, and the Class G airspace has a ceiling of 1100 AGL. What is the difference between Class E and Class G? The only difference is that Class G has very loose weather minimums, and Class E has more strict weather minimums. This relates to greater visibility and required distance from clouds because there might be some IFR traffic. I guess I'd also like to know if there > is any communication requirement for other light > aircraft (is that FAR 91?). Maybe from flying in > small planes (cessnas, etc) with friends, I get used > to the idea that Class E doesn't matter, i.e. do what > you want. On the other hand, maybe that's exactly the > sort of thing that irritates the GA rated folks. My > only lame justifictions have been that a) my Kolb > doesn't appear on radar any different than a Cub (i.e. > they can't know I'm breaking the rule), and b), flying > thru E space at 1000 agl seems like a small sin if it > is a safer gliding altitude for me and I know the area > is very uncrowded and very good vis. Also, there is > the c) aspect to my reasoning -- that is, I've never > asked anyone before right now if that actually is > against the FARs. Is it? > -Ben Ransom Communication is not required except in Class D or higher. HOWEVER, it is certainly good practice (and appreciated by all) to have and use a radio in the vicinity of a non towered airport. Identify yourself and your intentions. To really learn about airspace I strongly recommend the airspace video put out by King. gil leiter MAPLEWOOD, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1999
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Finishing System
> The above applies to PolyTone as the final color coat. If you used > AeroThane as the final color coat than that changes everything. > AeroThane, like ALL cross linked urethanes is no longer soluable and > cannot be removed. It is also much more difficult to repair. > > gil leiter Gil and Kolbers: Repairing aerothane hasn't been that difficult for me. If you break your airplanes often enough you get a lot of practice. ;-) After crashing thru a big red oak tree in 1992, it required more than 20 patches to repair the fuselage fabric alone. You still have to look hard to find them. I use round patches and mask for doping and painting in a square or rectangular pattern. Scuff sand the aerothane surface after trimming the area to be patched in a round or oval pattern. Make sure the patches are aligned in relation to the airframe. Makes them less noticeable. Be sure and mask the area to be sanded. Allow plenty of overlap. Use pinking shears to cut the patch after lightly ironing the patch material to get the wrinkles out. Use "Polytac" to cement the patch. Use care to mask and cover areas other than the patch to prevent overspray from ruining the gloss. Take your time. It will take several days to go thru the process to completion, but you will be happy with the results. I have never had a patch on aerothane pull loose, large or small, and they all look pretty good. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1999
From: Tom Kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Subject: Re: Ramblings
Big Lar asks: <<#3, I want to install my radio antenna the way Erich Weaver did - inside the nose cone ahead of my feet, with the excess length sticking out of a grommeted hole in the top of the nose. It is FAR and AWAY the very best installation I have seen, and I'm gonna copy him. It even gives a good place to tie your yaw string. Erich's already said OK, and I say thanks. For a ground plane, I have a large piece of heavy aluminum foil that I plan on gluing to the entire lower portion of the nose cone. My questions are: will the foil be sufficient for a good ground plane, and does the antenna have to actually be mounted solidly on the ground plane, or can it sit on a bracket several inches above it ??>> Al foil can serve as a ground plane but there are difficulties. The braided end of the cable must be connected to the ground plane at the vertical element but Al foil is very difficult to solder. Copper foil would be easier if you can find some. Be sure to keep metal as far away from the upper end of the vertical element as possible. The ground plane acts as a mirror to generate the "missing" half of your vertical antenna. The farther away from the ground plane the vertical element starts the worse the performance. No hard and fast rule but more than an inch or so would be detectable. And the farther away you start the more you will need a balun to suppress unwanted current on the shield braid. Suggest you visit Jim Wier at the RST site for more information: http://www.rst-engr.com He also sells nifty ferrite toroids which do a great job as a balun. Tom Kuffel, AL7AU, FCC Commercial 1st Class Phone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1999
From: GREENSS <GREENSS(at)Bowater.com>
Subject: Poly-Fiber repairs
A1-type: MAIL Bil wrote: I tried to get to the aircraftfinishing.com web site but can't get through. If you find out how to make fabric repairs that are acceptable to poly fiber I'd sure like to know about it. Could save me a load of dough and time. Thanks, Bil Bil, If you contact Jim or Dondi Miller at Aircraft Technical Support they will be glad to give you the answers you need. They are distributors for poly-Fiber and very knowledgeable about the product as it applies to the Kolb planes. I have made several calls with lots of questions, each time they were very friendly and helpful. Their # is 877-877-3334 . Steven Building MKIII/582 N58SG (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vic Worthington" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/16/99
Date: Nov 17, 1999
< Tom is correct. This is not system III. I didn't ask but I would guess it is not compatible with Poly-Fiber but I you should never mix systems. I have done Poly-Fiber and while it works great, I would have to wait until Summer to cover my Firestar. With AFS I will be able to cover in my closed heated garage. I highly recommend the class. It is well worth the money. Rocketman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cjc0751(at)banet.net
Date: Nov 17, 1999
Subject: Re: Airspace Rules
The FAR's are online at www.faa.gov. I agree with Gil. If it's class E airspace "designated for an airport" you need permission from the "ATC facility having juristiction" to fly through there. chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 17, 1999
Subject: Re: Poly-Fiber repairs
Call up Polyfiber and ask for their new covering manual. It does not cost much and is an excellent resource. Basically reppairs for Polyfiber are no different from the Acceptable Methods and Practices of AC43-13 with some exceptions. Certain types of holes, tears, punctures may be repaired by overlaying a patch with Polybrush without sewing unlike standard repairs. JR ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1999
From: Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net>
Subject: DON'T WAIT ANY LONGER!
If your waiting for that ultimate post that will either: A) Make you finally feel guilty enough to contribute. B) Make you laugh so hard you give up and pull out your credit card. C) Make a contribution in hopes that these pleas will just go away. Well DON'T wait any longer......It just isn't going to happen. I have been watching and waiting for something interesting to be posted like Matt's ride last year in Brian Lloyd's YAK and subsequent picture of a hairy Pillsbury Doughboy to make fun of but it just hasn't materialized. The list has been VERY active with things like bolt lengths, engine horsepower, gyro's, new web sites and flux removal. Now this stuff would give Steve Martin or Robin Williams a hard time to find material in. (Anyone want to take a stab at making an aileron bellcrank post funny?) Well I'm reading all these and it comes to me......this is what the lists are all about. Exchange of information. I read a couple of posts of new guys getting information that will help them make a decision about the airplane they choose to build and how to equip it. On the RV-List I learned how control surfaces on B-767's can be operated independently of each other and when and when not to remove solder flux from an electronic project. My point is that there is a ton of stuff that we are all learning from ALL of these lists. All you have to do is read it. You also have the added capability of asking questions if there is something you don't understand and getting a timely answer from someone for clarification. This HAS to be worth something to you. It should be. Why not dig deep right now and figure out what that amount is? I'm sure can can come up with some figure. Well, write it down and divide it by twelve and take a look at what it would cost you per month for all that entertainment/information/insight. It's really not all that much is it? Please click on the secured URL below or write a check out right now and know that you have been instrumental in making all of this possible. Thanks for reading this and sorry I couldn't think of anything better to write but I need some seed material..............AL To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a look at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce McElhoe" <brucem(at)theworks.com>
Subject: Re: Airspace Rules
Date: Nov 17, 1999
Ben, As I see it, the response from Gil Leiter is right on. There are two kinds of Class E airspace. The surface-based kind requires prior authorization to enter -- gotta' call 'em on the radio. The other kind is in airways (floor is 1200 AGL) and transition areas (floor is 700 AGL) -- these areas are free for us to use without radio contact, as long as visibility is 3-miles. >From the responses here, > is it an accurate summary to say that flying an > ultralight in Class E, regardless of it's floor level > ( ground, 700, or 1200agl) requires prior > authorization? No. You need to call in only for "surface-based Class E" -- shown on the charts as bold dashed magenta line (eg.,Yuba Co. airport & Red Bluff). The fuzzy magenta line around Yolo Co. airport is a transition area, and means you need 3-miles visibility above 700 AGL (elsewhere 1 mile is enough below 1200 AGL) -- An important distinction during these hazy valley days. > I guess I'd also like to know if there > is any communication requirement for other light > aircraft (is that FAR 91?). I understand that GA aircraft are not required to have prior authorization to enter surface-based Class E airspace -- though as a matter of practice they generally do broadcast their intentions. >flying > thru E space at 1000 agl seems like a small sin if it > is a safer gliding altitude for me and I know the area > is very uncrowded and very good vis. Also, there is > the c) aspect to my reasoning -- that is, I've never > asked anyone before right now if that actually is > against the FARs. Is it? Two answers: If you are flying at 1000 AGL outside a transition area (where the floor of Class E is 1200 AGL) then it is perfectly okay to fly (you are in Class G), and you only need 1-mile visibility and clear of clouds. If you're inside a transition area (enclosed by a fuzzy magenta line on the chart) then at 1000 AGL you are above the 700 AGL floor and it's okay as long as you have 3-miles visibility and 2000 ft from clouds. No radio contact is required in either case. I'm glad this discussion came up -- I like the confidence that comes from having to think it through. BTW, we are moving smartly toward the day our Firefly gets going. Thanks for your advice on wheels and tires. I found a couple of evenly worn 6.00 -6 Aeronca tires that weigh a little less than the balloon tires you're using. I thought we might try those on the Azusa metal wheels. . Good luck with your renovation. Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88 Reedley, Calif. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1999
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Ground plane mat'l for antennas
As Tom K says, Al is hard to solder to, and copper hard to find. Here's two sources of copper sheet/foil: try a better class roof/guttering firm for small pcs. of sheet stk--a bit heavy tho. Or try a craft shop/stained glass supplier for thin stuff. I don't mean using a zillion strips of the foil I put around stained glass construction! bn old ham, old mech, really old pile-it ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1999
From: Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: Calibrating That Iron
Larry, Most irons are notoriously unreliable, ie, they do not repeat the same tempt for the same setting. Consumer Reports said that the Black & Decker K-Mart Special was among the best in that regard. I used a Radio Shack product that is used to paste heat sinks to electronic components to paste my thermometer to the iron & eliminated any doubt due to conduction. The gooey white paste just wipes off. ...Richard Larry Bourne wrote: > > Couple of things kind of have me going right now. #1, I'm running out of > stalling on covering my plane, so got out this old iron, and started to > calibrate it. Guess I've got about 5 or 6 hours now, hovering over that > awful thing, and still only 1/2 done. Temps don't seem to stay put, or be > repeatable. Is there a simple way to do this ?? #2, as many of you know, > I'm building Vamoose on a 7' x 40' screened porch on a mobile home in a > retirement/snowbird park. Snowbirds are now in town. Recently moved the > plane into the driveway, to have room to spread the wings, and ran into an > unforeseen problem. These 'birds, mostly Canadians, and really great, > sociable people have been following this mighty project with great > interest - many bringing friends and visiting family by to show off the > local nut. Last weekend, I had it 1/2 in the driveway, 1/2 in the street, > with the wings up, and starting to install the center gap cover (??) seal > (??). Anyway, the between the wings cover. I'm installing it permanently, > ala Ron Christensen, and running into a fair tangle. Time consuming too. > Anyway, soon had a procession of curious people hearing the word, and coming > to take a look. Being a motor mouth myself, (has any one noticed ??) you > can imagine how much work got done. Sure was fun though. One ole boy, > a retired hot dog (! ! !) salesman from Seattle, got to looking at the tail > end of it, where I've started mounting the folded wing attachment points, > and wanted to know what the h--- is this. When I told him, he said > something like, why don't you make a shaped and padded bar to fit on the > steel tube that holds the aluminum tail wheel support bar. Set the leading > edge of a wing on each side of it, and it'd be much more solid and secure > than the pin and socket we have now. It'd hold the wing a lot higher off > the ground too. Makes sense to me. How about you ???? #3, I want to > install my radio antenna the way Erich Weaver did - inside the nose cone > ahead of my feet, with the excess length sticking out of a grommeted hole in > the top of the nose. It is FAR and AWAY the very best installation I have > seen, and I'm gonna copy him. It even gives a good place to tie your yaw > string. Erich's already said OK, and I say thanks. For a ground plane, I > have a large piece of heavy aluminum foil that I plan on gluing to the > entire lower portion of the nose cone. My questions are: will the foil be > sufficient for a good ground plane, and does the antenna have to actually be > mounted solidly on the ground plane, or can it sit on a bracket several > inches above it ?? The fancy rudder trim assembly I invented is pretty > much in the way of a simple installation of the antenna. As a > parting "by the way", I ordered the prop, and exhaust system this morning. > Another 1000 dollar bill gone. That's 26 of them now, and prob'ly 1 more to > go. This is starting (??) to hurt. Well, that's more than enough B.S. for > now. Later all. Big Lar. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net>
Subject: Calibrating That Iron
Date: Nov 17, 1999
Another way was suggested in the Poly-Fiber manual which I found worked very nicely. Obtain the mercurcy candy type thermometers - PolyFiber has one they sell. It looks like a regular thermometer except it is calibrated for a higher temperature range. Lay a comfortably thick stack of paper towels on your workbench, lay the thermometer on the towels and carefully set the iron on top of that. Place the iron so you can read the 200+ degree range without moving the iron. Now just set the iron to a setting and wait for awhile to see where it stabilizes. Adjust if necessary and wait for it to stabilize again. By trial and error, you'll soon be where you want to be. If you pay close attention, you'll see the temperature will vary a significant amount as the iron thermostat cycles on and off. Not much you can do to about that, the iron will also be doing this as you are ironing. Adjust so the range is centered about the setting you desire. Normally, I'll set the iron back on the thermometer as I am using it to make sure the temps stays where it is supposed to be. Never can tell when you might accidently bump the thermostat. Dennis -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 7:00 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Calibrating That Iron Larry, Most irons are notoriously unreliable, ie, they do not repeat the same tempt for the same setting. Consumer Reports said that the Black & Decker K-Mart Special was among the best in that regard. I used a Radio Shack product that is used to paste heat sinks to electronic components to paste my thermometer to the iron & eliminated any doubt due to conduction. The gooey white paste just wipes off. ...Richard Larry Bourne wrote: > > Couple of things kind of have me going right now. #1, I'm running out of > stalling on covering my plane, so got out this old iron, and started to > calibrate it. Guess I've got about 5 or 6 hours now, hovering over that > awful thing, and still only 1/2 done. Temps don't seem to stay put, or be > repeatable. Is there a simple way to do this ?? #2, as many of you know, > I'm building Vamoose on a 7' x 40' screened porch on a mobile home in a > retirement/snowbird park. Snowbirds are now in town. Recently moved the > plane into the driveway, to have room to spread the wings, and ran into an > unforeseen problem. These 'birds, mostly Canadians, and really great, > sociable people have been following this mighty project with great > interest - many bringing friends and visiting family by to show off the > local nut. Last weekend, I had it 1/2 in the driveway, 1/2 in the street, > with the wings up, and starting to install the center gap cover (??) seal > (??). Anyway, the between the wings cover. I'm installing it permanently, > ala Ron Christensen, and running into a fair tangle. Time consuming too. > Anyway, soon had a procession of curious people hearing the word, and coming > to take a look. Being a motor mouth myself, (has any one noticed ??) you > can imagine how much work got done. Sure was fun though. One ole boy, > a retired hot dog (! ! !) salesman from Seattle, got to looking at the tail > end of it, where I've started mounting the folded wing attachment points, > and wanted to know what the h--- is this. When I told him, he said > something like, why don't you make a shaped and padded bar to fit on the > steel tube that holds the aluminum tail wheel support bar. Set the leading > edge of a wing on each side of it, and it'd be much more solid and secure > than the pin and socket we have now. It'd hold the wing a lot higher off > the ground too. Makes sense to me. How about you ???? #3, I want to > install my radio antenna the way Erich Weaver did - inside the nose cone > ahead of my feet, with the excess length sticking out of a grommeted hole in > the top of the nose. It is FAR and AWAY the very best installation I have > seen, and I'm gonna copy him. It even gives a good place to tie your yaw > string. Erich's already said OK, and I say thanks. For a ground plane, I > have a large piece of heavy aluminum foil that I plan on gluing to the > entire lower portion of the nose cone. My questions are: will the foil be > sufficient for a good ground plane, and does the antenna have to actually be > mounted solidly on the ground plane, or can it sit on a bracket several > inches above it ?? The fancy rudder trim assembly I invented is pretty > much in the way of a simple installation of the antenna. As a > parting "by the way", I ordered the prop, and exhaust system this morning. > Another 1000 dollar bill gone. That's 26 of them now, and prob'ly 1 more to > go. This is starting (??) to hurt. Well, that's more than enough B.S. for > now. Later all. Big Lar. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1999
From: wood <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Calibrating That Iron
> >Another way was suggested in the Poly-Fiber manual which I found worked very >nicely. >Obtain the mercurcy candy type thermometers - PolyFiber has one they sell. >It looks like a regular thermometer except it is calibrated for a higher >temperature range. How about digging into the box of parts you will someday call an airplane and dig out the cht. Wouldn't this make a good thermometer for calibrating the iron. Woody Interested in free energy? Try http://geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/lab/1135 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Ist half Day 2; Beach Run
Date: Nov 17, 1999
Friday morning came John and I had breakfast on the tenth fairway.(I live at the Hombre Golf Course). Eggs and eggs, toast and coffee. I had a little work to do before we could get in the air. I called a new buddy that lived up the county to ask to borrow his radio for Hawk36 while he was down for adjustments with his new Firestar II. He agreed. We would have to fly up there and retrieve it, some 20 miles north. Around 10:00 or so we departed for O.E. Moon's new place where he has only had planes fly in or out for a few weeks, mostly us. Me and my wingman Richard was the first to do so. 2500' of dirt with a little grass on it but it was smooth and packed. The air was smooth and cool. Hawk36 followed me because he didn't have a clue where I was going. Our cruise was around 80-85 mph. We headed north to Crystal Village so I could show Hawk36 where I was going to move my operation next year if I can get the hanger up and the economy holds strong. We circled around the air strip and then headed for O.E.'s some 15 miles to the east. That's what we call him too, OE. Short little guy 5' about 70 years and 125 lbs. But he has the heart of a Bull. If he thinks he can do it you better get out of the way cause OE is coming through. After landing I introduce John to OE and OE invites us into his big and I mean BIG hanger. 55'x120'with a roof height of 19' for a Firestar II. Hawk36 thinks he can land in it. He also has about a dozen cars in all stages of reconstruction, his Firestar II folded out, a big laundry and sewing room, tools of all kinds and his travel trailer with the owning out just so Ms Shirley (OE's wife) will feel at home. We except a soft drink then sit and talk a spell. OE gave us his radio and it hooked right up to Ms Pfer's holder and power cord. It's time to head for the Creek as Richard would say when he's ready to fly. So we did just that. We took off for Sandy Creek Airpark where Jim (Yellow Jacket-YJ who flies a Firestar II) and we think Richard (Bluebird-BB who flies a Challenger CWS) is waiting for us. It turned out that Richard was still at home waiting for Ted (White Lighting-WL who flies a Firestar) to show up from Opelika, AL. John and I were on our way south when YJ came on the Radio and told us about BB's delay. YJ would come on down to pick us up for some lunch at Arbie's in down town Callaway. YJ lives just north of the Creek and we usually fly right over his place so he knows when to pick us up. Sandy Creek airpark runway is so smooth most of the time it's like a big green strip of carpet. Nice taxiways, nice homes, nice EAA hanger, and lots of hungry All-jaws. (You know the little set of wings with the big set of teeth that bite and run but you don't know you've been bit until you see the blood running down your arm from your unconscious scratching). By the millions, makes me itch all over just thinking about it. We park and head for the protection of the hanger where one of our EAA members is working on his Mini Max. Jim comes up and we head for town and some lunch before we can head out for a test beach run in the afternoon. Head 'm up and move 'm out to Arbie's we go. We'll try to do so more tomorrow, and I'll try to finish before I leave on our next XC to Gator Field down near Clermont, Fl. this weekend for their annual banquet and Fly-in. You sure you can't go with us John? Rut's Mom is going to put us up. More later, Firehawk ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1999
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 1999
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Ramblings
-------------------------------- >Big Lar asks: ><<#3, I want to >install my radio antenna the way Erich Weaver did - inside the nose cone >ahead of my feet, with the excess length sticking out of a grommeted >hole in >the top of the nose. It is FAR and AWAY the very best installation I >have >seen, and I'm gonna copy him ---------------------------------- >Tom Kuffel Replies >Al foil can serve as a ground plane but there are difficulties. The >braided end of the cable must be connected to the ground plane at the >vertical element but Al foil is very difficult to solder. ---------------------------------- Hey guys, I have used a "Radio Shack" rubber duck antenna ($7.95) hooked up to a "Del.Com" hand held radio ($160.00) for 4 years. The antenna is made for an automobile "FM" stereo. Last week I picked up & talked to a guy in Dalton GA.(60 miles north of me and some guys in Phoenix, Alabama (80 miles South of me) - we talked about the "Beech Run"! And how we thought it would be "too foggy" to go down there. The point is-you don't have to spend a lot of money or time up-front on your radio equipment "before" your plane is in the air. I do have an aluminum ground on the bottom of the nose cone. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1999
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Ist half Day 2; Beach Run
> > Friday morning came John and I had breakfast on the tenth fairway.(I live >at the Hombre Golf Course). Eggs and eggs, toast and coffee. I had a little >work to do before we could get in the air. Hey, did you guys land at the "light house" <http://users.erols.com/lthouse/csgtr.htm.> or not? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 1999
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Beach Run, again
> >> >> Friday morning came John and I had breakfast on the tenth fairway.(I live >>at the Hombre Golf Course). Eggs and eggs, toast and coffee. I had a little >>work to do before we could get in the air. Hey, did you guys land at the "light house"? <http://www.mexicobeach.com/apalachicola/lighthouse.html> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
Date: Nov 18, 1999
Subject: Re: Calibrating That Iron
Dennis Souder wrote: > > > Another way was suggested in the Poly-Fiber manual which I found worked very > nicely. > Obtain the mercurcy candy type thermometers - PolyFiber has one they sell. > It looks like a regular thermometer except it is calibrated for a higher > temperature range. Lay a comfortably thick stack of paper towels on your > workbench, lay the thermometer on the towels and carefully set the iron on > top of that. Place the iron so you can read the 200+ degree range without > moving the iron. Now just set the iron to a setting and wait for awhile to > see where it stabilizes. Adjust if necessary and wait for it to stabilize > again. By trial and error, you'll soon be where you want to be. > > If you pay close attention, you'll see the temperature will vary a > significant amount as the iron thermostat cycles on and off. Not much you > can do to about that, the iron will also be doing this as you are ironing. > Adjust so the range is centered about the setting you desire. Calibrating to the center of the range is OK for the lower temperatures. However, when calibrating for the 350 final temperature this could be a big problem. Remember that at about 375 bad things start to happen to polyester. First, the fabric will start to loosen at about this temperature, and a bit higher it will start to decompose. If the iron is cycling over a significant range the UPPER end of the range could put it uncomfortably close (for me, at least) to the temps where problems could take place. Keep in mind also, that the range over which it cycles is most likely NOT constant over a wide temperature span. Solution if cycle range is large? Get a better iron! How do you know if a potential candidate is indeed a better iron? Sorry, but I have no idea. Best bet is to find some other user who has found an iron that is reasonably stable and buy the same model. gil leiter MAPLEWOOD, MN > Normally, I'll set the iron back on the thermometer as I am using it to make > sure the temps stays where it is supposed to be. Never can tell when you > might accidently bump the thermostat. > > Dennis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Calibrating That Iron
Date: Nov 18, 1999
Me too. I just keep the thermometer on the papertowels all the time - gives me peace of mind. -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Souder <flykolb(at)epix.net> Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 6:47 PM Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Calibrating That Iron > >Another way was suggested in the Poly-Fiber manual which I found worked very >nicely. >Obtain the mercurcy candy type thermometers - PolyFiber has one they sell. >It looks like a regular thermometer except it is calibrated for a higher >temperature range. Lay a comfortably thick stack of paper towels on your >workbench, lay the thermometer on the towels and carefully set the iron on >top of that. Place the iron so you can read the 200+ degree range without >moving the iron. Now just set the iron to a setting and wait for awhile to >see where it stabilizes. Adjust if necessary and wait for it to stabilize >again. By trial and error, you'll soon be where you want to be. > >If you pay close attention, you'll see the temperature will vary a >significant amount as the iron thermostat cycles on and off. Not much you >can do to about that, the iron will also be doing this as you are ironing. >Adjust so the range is centered about the setting you desire. > >Normally, I'll set the iron back on the thermometer as I am using it to make >sure the temps stays where it is supposed to be. Never can tell when you >might accidently bump the thermostat. > >Dennis > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard >Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 7:00 PM >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Calibrating That Iron > > >Larry, Most irons are notoriously unreliable, ie, they do not repeat the >same >tempt for the same setting. Consumer Reports said that the Black & Decker >K-Mart Special was among the best in that regard. I used a Radio Shack >product >that is used to paste heat sinks to electronic components to paste my >thermometer to the iron & eliminated any doubt due to conduction. The gooey >white paste just wipes off. ...Richard > >Larry Bourne wrote: > > >> >> Couple of things kind of have me going right now. #1, I'm running out of >> stalling on covering my plane, so got out this old iron, and started to >> calibrate it. Guess I've got about 5 or 6 hours now, hovering over that >> awful thing, and still only 1/2 done. Temps don't seem to stay put, or be >> repeatable. Is there a simple way to do this ?? #2, as many of you >know, >> I'm building Vamoose on a 7' x 40' screened porch on a mobile home in a >> retirement/snowbird park. Snowbirds are now in town. Recently moved the >> plane into the driveway, to have room to spread the wings, and ran into an

October 30, 1999 - November 18, 1999

Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bt