Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bu
November 18, 1999 - December 12, 1999
>> unforeseen problem. These 'birds, mostly Canadians, and really great,
>> sociable people have been following this mighty project with great
>> interest - many bringing friends and visiting family by to show off the
>> local nut. Last weekend, I had it 1/2 in the driveway, 1/2 in the
street,
>> with the wings up, and starting to install the center gap cover (??) seal
>> (??). Anyway, the between the wings cover. I'm installing it
>permanently,
>> ala Ron Christensen, and running into a fair tangle. Time consuming too.
>> Anyway, soon had a procession of curious people hearing the word, and
>coming
>> to take a look. Being a motor mouth myself, (has any one noticed ??)
you
>> can imagine how much work got done. Sure was fun though. One ole
>boy,
>> a retired hot dog (! ! !) salesman from Seattle, got to looking at the
>tail
>> end of it, where I've started mounting the folded wing attachment points,
>> and wanted to know what the h--- is this. When I told him, he said
>> something like, why don't you make a shaped and padded bar to fit on the
>> steel tube that holds the aluminum tail wheel support bar. Set the
>leading
>> edge of a wing on each side of it, and it'd be much more solid and secure
>> than the pin and socket we have now. It'd hold the wing a lot higher off
>> the ground too. Makes sense to me. How about you ???? #3, I want to
>> install my radio antenna the way Erich Weaver did - inside the nose cone
>> ahead of my feet, with the excess length sticking out of a grommeted hole
>in
>> the top of the nose. It is FAR and AWAY the very best installation I
have
>> seen, and I'm gonna copy him. It even gives a good place to tie your yaw
>> string. Erich's already said OK, and I say thanks. For a ground plane,
>I
>> have a large piece of heavy aluminum foil that I plan on gluing to the
>> entire lower portion of the nose cone. My questions are: will the foil
>be
>> sufficient for a good ground plane, and does the antenna have to actually
>be
>> mounted solidly on the ground plane, or can it sit on a bracket several
>> inches above it ?? The fancy rudder trim assembly I invented is pretty
>> much in the way of a simple installation of the antenna. As a
>> parting "by the way", I ordered the prop, and exhaust system this
>morning.
>> Another 1000 dollar bill gone. That's 26 of them now, and prob'ly 1 more
>to
>> go. This is starting (??) to hurt. Well, that's more than enough B.S.
>for
>> now. Later all. Big Lar.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Noise |
>--> RV-List message posted by: Joe Czachorowski
>
> I have a small annoying problem. I have a King KY97A Comm
>radio. It was pre-wired at the factory (I guess). It works great as
>long as the electric turn coordinator is not running. When I hook up
>the turn coordinator, I get the motor(gyro?) noise in my headset with
>the squelch off. If I turn the squelch on, I don't hear it. I'm doing
>this test with the engine NOT running. Is this normal? Will this noise
>also affect my transmissions? BTW, I have individual ground wires going
>to a common ground block on the firewall as per Electric Bob. Any ideas
>out there?
>
Turn coordinators are high on the list of potential
noise generators. What you describe is consistent with
noise conducted out of the TC and onto the bus via its
14v power lead. Try putting a filter in the leadwires
to the TC. Radio Shack has an inductor, capacitor combo they
sell for about $4. It will need to mount in a small "project
box". I generally wire up the components with a pair of
goesinta and goesouta wires through grommets. The RS
part number for electrical components kit is 270-030.
I've published a copy of a drawing describing a power
conditioner we used to build at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/pwr_cnd.pdf
which you are welcome to download and use for guidance
on fabrication of your own noise filter.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ist half Day 2; Beach Run |
I'm not there yet. Firehawk
>From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ist half Day 2; Beach Run
>Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 00:47:57 -0500
>
>
>
> >
> > Friday morning came John and I had breakfast on the tenth fairway.(I
>live
> >at the Hombre Golf Course). Eggs and eggs, toast and coffee. I had a
>little
> >work to do before we could get in the air.
>
>Hey, did you guys land at the "light house"
><http://users.erols.com/lthouse/csgtr.htm.> or not?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beach Run, again |
> Hey, did you guys land at the "light house"?
> <http://www.mexicobeach.com/apalachicola/lighthouse.html>
>
> Possum
Possum and Gang:
Don't think anyone landed at Cape St George Light, but Miss
P'fer made a couple landings in dry, soft sand at the west
end of St Joe Spit. Was a test to see how she liked
operating in that environment. The 800X6 4 ply tires with 8
psi did a great job negotiating dry beach sand which
normally swollows up most vehicles. Don't need brakes on
the beach, in fact will cause the mains to dig in and create
many problems. The tail wheel is all the brake one needs.
The weather was great, lots of wild life and fish on and
around the islands. All the aircraft made it over a lot of
water with no problems. Hated to go home after eating that
big grouper sandwich at the Oakes in Panacea.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Calibrating That Iron |
First, the fabric will start to loosen at about this
> temperature, and a bit higher it will start to decompose. If the iron
> is cycling over a significant range the UPPER end of the range could put
> it uncomfortably close (for me, at least) to the temps where problems
> could take place. Keep in mind also, that the range over which it
> cycles is most likely NOT constant over a wide temperature span.
> gil leiter
Gil and Gang:
Don't worry, the cycling of the thermostat in the iron is
not that critical. If it was there would be a lot of us
falling of the sky because we had under or over heated our
fabric.
Before the fabric loosens and starts to decompose you will
get a significant warning, the structure you are covering
will collapse. There is tremendous power in polyester
dacron when it is heat shrunk.
I like my fabric tight as a drum. I try to watch the edges
of what I am covering for bending. All the trailing edges
of my ailerons, elevators, flaps, etc., are scalloped, but
the fabric is tight. Even the 4130 inboard ribs are bowed
in a little.
Now this may not be the norm but it works for me. Of course
I calibrate my iron (been using the old GE for 15+ years)
before I cover and go by instructions in the Stitts Manual
as far as temps are concerned.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
Some people like to build, some people like to fly. You want have the time
for both. Something has to give. Having one that flies and building one on
the days you can not fly would be the answer. I don't think I will be
without a flyable plane again until I can't fly at all.
As Tiny says," So much sky, so little time"
I agree with Possum on the cheap antenna, mine is made with a SS welding
rod. You can pay $60 for one from a supply house and it want work any
better. Mine cost me about $2. I might have a total of $12 in my whole
antenna from the tip to the radio. I've talked to club members (Rut
Fuller)as far as 220 miles away like he was right next to me. What I've
noticed is, somedays the reception in phenomenal on others you can't
understand com. when your wingman is 100' from you, unless of coarse you are
flying with John Hauck and he gets so close you can almost hear him speaking
through the Lexan . It has a lot to do with the atmosphere changes and
sunspots and what the Russians are doing with their weather machine.:-)
Example, return trip of the Beach Run after we all went our separate ways.
We were talking to the two Georgia Boys on their way home as far as 150
miles with our little hand held sets. We knew they were almost home after
flying for 1.5 hours in opposite directions. Sure is nice to have one that
works most of the time. The most important thing I've found is that you must
deal with any electrical engine noise first or you are wasting your time.
High tension plug wires, plugs, plug caps, any place that may cause a spark
to jump in the ignition system will cause a lot of noise and by the time you
squelch it out you have effectively reduced your range to useless. I found
one plug wire connection at one coil that was not perfect. It had slowly
burned the wire up into the insulation. It did not show up in the ignition
check but it did make the 582 harder to start, I just didn't know that was
what it was. After I did find the burned wire and repaired the end and
coated it with Dielectric grease and reinstalled it my radio was as clear as
it could possibly be.I also use a big filter across the charging system per
John Hauck. I found out also that a new set of plugs are clearer that ones
that have some time on them. It may be that they have a cleaner connection
at the cap than did the old ones. I also use dielectric grease on the plug
caps. This has almost eliminated the wear in the caps. If you put a lot of
time on the engine the caps will wear to the point that they do not have a
secure connection to the plugs. This also causes noise. I learned this the
hard way.
These are only things that have worked for me. It may or may not work for
you.
Firehawk
>From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ramblings
>Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 23:55:24 -0500
>
>
>--------------------------------
> >Big Lar asks:
> ><<#3, I want to
> >install my radio antenna the way Erich Weaver did - inside the nose cone
> >ahead of my feet, with the excess length sticking out of a grommeted
> >hole in
> >the top of the nose. It is FAR and AWAY the very best installation I
> >have
> >seen, and I'm gonna copy him
>----------------------------------
> >Tom Kuffel Replies
> >Al foil can serve as a ground plane but there are difficulties. The
> >braided end of the cable must be connected to the ground plane at the
> >vertical element but Al foil is very difficult to solder.
>----------------------------------
>Hey guys, I have used a "Radio Shack" rubber duck antenna ($7.95) hooked up
>to a "Del.Com" hand held radio ($160.00) for 4 years.
>The antenna is made for an automobile "FM" stereo. Last week I picked up &
>talked to a guy in Dalton GA.(60 miles north of me and some guys in
>Phoenix, Alabama (80 miles South of me) - we talked about the "Beech Run"!
>And how we thought it would be "too foggy" to go down there. The point
>is-you don't have to spend a lot of money or time up-front on your radio
>equipment "before" your plane is in the air. I do have an aluminum ground
>on the bottom of the nose cone.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
I learned this the
> hard way.
> These are only things that have worked for me. It may or may not work for
> you.
> Firehawk
Firehawk and Kolbers:
The above quote says a lot. Really not necessary to
reinvent the wheel. I for one am into ultralight flying as
a hobby. Part of the game is to be able to fly and enjoy
without paying thru the nose for the privilege to do so.
I use a Pointer ELT antenna, small, light weight, and was
relatively inexpensive, about $25. In fact, I have two, one
mounted on top of gap seal for ELT and one for comm mounted
under the nose pod (with .025 alum ground plane inside).
With a 45 degree bend, per instructions with the Pointer
ELT, it works great. It is easy to mount and has a BNC
connector already in place to connect your coax.
I use a King KX99 handheld mounted in the aircraft. Been
using it since Nov 89, in my old Firestar. Sometimes I get
comments from Tower Operators that my radio sounds like a
real airplane radio. hehehe Ain't that something..........
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Calibrating That Iron |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Calibrating That Iron--Gooey white stuff |
That gooey white stuff from Radio Shack is a silica heat sink compound. It is
a good method for use to get a reading on the iron and is per the Polyfiber
instructions. Just remember to thouroughly clean your iron of the silicone
with a MEK solvent and maybe a silicone remover before transfering it to your
fabric. Paint does not adhere well to silicone. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
I have a 0-6000 altimeter only 9 months old for sale 85.00 no shipping or
tax if anyone is interested let me know
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical Noise |
>Bob, does this mean that if I want a turn co-ordinator I should plan a noise
>filter from the begginning?
No, please don't add a filter just 'cause someone else
has reported a problem . . . you only need to do this IF
your sure your situation is identical to the other guy's.
A builder called me about 10 years ago and spent about
5 minutes describing all the shielding and filtering he'd
done on his airplane and then asked, "What else do I need?"
I asked, "Gee, I dunno, what kind of noise problem do you
have".
"Oh," sez he, "No problem, I haven't flown the airplane
yet."
He had hours, dollars and pounds invested in noise abatement
techniques that vast majority of which he probably didn't
need.
If your T/C is a KNOWN antagonist, meaning that a number
of people have the same make and model and fixed a noise
problem by adding a filter, then it's a good bet that you'll
need it also. But lacking that kind of situation, don't
hang filters on things until a problem manifests itself
and you've identified source, propogation path, and victim.
(See chapter on Noise Abatement in my book).
>Also, does the Navaid autopilot/turn co-ordinator need one too?
I've not heard of anyone needing to filter the Navaid. (Has
anyone else out there been aware of a Navaid noise problem?)
>Can two devices share the same noise filter?
Sometimes . . . but remember that a single power source
for two devices makes them vulnerable to single points
of failure for both devices. One device craps and takes
out the fuse for both.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Sizing (was Another How To Page) |
>I feel like I'm sending an e-mail to the two experts . . . so here goes . .
Hey, it's nice when there's more than one doctor in town when
your looking for answers . . .
>Bob and John . . . what is recommended where you want to be able to do a
>wiring disconnect (for example, tail light going into fuselage . . . nav
>lights going into wing ribs). What do you use, where do you get it . . .
>and if it needs a crimping tool, what do you recommend? I know this is
>basic, but you can save me a bunch of reading.
>Thanks in advance,
Are your talking about wing roots, etc? Do you plan folding or
removable wings? I know of very few certified ships that have
had wings removed even once in their 30+ year lifetimes. Unless
you PLAN to open and remate electrical connections a lot, then
run solid wires through the area. Put service loops in of about
6" of wire so that if you ever DO pull the wings, you have slack
to accomodate butt splices . . . the single most reliable means
for rejoining an opened wire.
For wires at fixture locations, again, the butt slice is the
#1 choice for dealing with single wires. The likelihood that
you're going to cut out and replace a splice more than once
over the lifetime of the airplane is very small.
Nav lights are unique in terms of power distribution. They
are two amps each and you could wire with 22AWG wire for each
bulb but you have to breaker the system for total loads of
6+ amps. This means that you have to use a 7A breaker/fuse
as a minimum which drives wire size to 20AWG. If it's a composite
airplane, using 18AWG will get you a little more light at the
lamps 'cause the round trip is longer for power and ground . . .
and 18AWG wire in nav light circuits wouldn't be out of line.
Stay with a 7A fuse.
Does this help?
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Big Wheels, FireFly |
About 8 flying hours ago I gave up my tiny little (8") FireFly wheels and
went to 4.80-8 tires on "narrow" aluminum wheels (Azusa Spinners). I was a
little concerned about the additional weight and drag but now I am absolutely
sure it was the right thing to do. Aside from the easy rolling and cushioning
at touchdown they take almost all of the bumps out of taxiing and reduce
probability of nose stands. The increased drag is almost unnoticeable and
when balanced against improved rough field landing ability is acceptable. In
the appearance department my FF moved from the "toy" category to the "one
tough little bear" category according to the local airport sage. Duane
the plane in Tallahassee.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Crimp, Solder or Both? |
>Robert,
>Do you recommend soldered connections always or are crimped ones
>satisfactory.
>
>Eric
Funny you should ask. I've JUST uploaded an updated article
I published about 4 years ago in Kit Aircraft Builder. Please
download:
http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/articles/terminal.pdf
. . . the short answer is leave your soldering iron in
the toolbox. Take the time to understand what crimped
terminals are about, how to use the tools for applying
them and selecting terminals for use on your project.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Our website woes . . . |
For the Nth time, my service provider's rep tells me
that they've figured out the problem . . . just checked
it myself and things seem to be working right.
If anyone is still having trouble accessing our files,
try clearing out the cache files of your browser. Seems
an attempt to get into the bogus server equipment may have
left some vestiges of bad urls on your browser's
cache files. Feedback from the field would be welcome
on this. I've been fighting it for two weeks now!
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear driven alternator |
>I'm thinking about installing a B&C gear driven alternator in my RV-6A. The
>AS&S catalog gives a brief description. It says that it is an 8 amp unit.
>Limited feedback from the List indicates that it is reliable. My
>plane-to-be will be day, VFR with a radio, turn & bank indicator,
>micro-encoder and transponder. I would use this as my only alternator. I
>have two questions. Am I crazy, or is this workable? Can I get information
>about the B&C alternator on the internet?
Sure. Day vfr loads is exactly what the SD-8 was designed for.
That was B&C's first product that came on the market about 18
years ago to support Ez builders with some day/vfr electrical
system. There are MANY sport bi-planes flying with an SD-8
as sole source of power.
The SD-8 has evolved to a 10 amp machine . . . all in all,
a robust, light and reliable alternative to more conventional
alternator/battery systems.
For more info, call B&C at 1.316.283.8000
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sk8er" <sk8er(at)inreach.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airspace Rules |
Bruce, I just got the new reg. for the Thunder Gull, A14MWB, I'm ready to
start the new club anytime, when i see you next i will tell you about the
two flights in the Gull, see ya, Mike
----------
> From: Bruce McElhoe <brucem(at)theworks.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Airspace Rules
> Date: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 9:41 AM
>
>
> Ben,
>
> As I see it, the response from Gil Leiter is right on. There are two
kinds
> of Class E airspace. The surface-based kind requires prior authorization
to
> enter -- gotta' call 'em on the radio. The other kind is in airways
(floor
> is 1200 AGL) and transition areas (floor is 700 AGL) -- these areas are
free
> for us to use without radio contact, as long as visibility is 3-miles.
>
> >From the responses here,
> > is it an accurate summary to say that flying an
> > ultralight in Class E, regardless of it's floor level
> > ( ground, 700, or 1200agl) requires prior
> > authorization?
>
> No. You need to call in only for "surface-based Class E" -- shown on the
> charts as bold dashed magenta line (eg.,Yuba Co. airport & Red Bluff).
> The fuzzy magenta line around Yolo Co. airport is a transition area, and
> means you need 3-miles visibility above 700 AGL (elsewhere 1 mile is
enough
> below 1200 AGL) -- An important distinction during these hazy valley
days.
>
> > I guess I'd also like to know if there
> > is any communication requirement for other light
> > aircraft (is that FAR 91?).
>
> I understand that GA aircraft are not required to have prior
authorization
> to enter surface-based Class E airspace -- though as a matter of practice
> they generally do broadcast their intentions.
>
> >flying
> > thru E space at 1000 agl seems like a small sin if it
> > is a safer gliding altitude for me and I know the area
> > is very uncrowded and very good vis. Also, there is
> > the c) aspect to my reasoning -- that is, I've never
> > asked anyone before right now if that actually is
> > against the FARs. Is it?
>
> Two answers: If you are flying at 1000 AGL outside a transition area
(where
> the floor of Class E is 1200 AGL) then it is perfectly okay to fly (you
are
> in Class G), and you only need 1-mile visibility and clear of clouds. If
> you're inside a transition area (enclosed by a fuzzy magenta line on the
> chart) then at 1000 AGL you are above the 700 AGL floor and it's okay as
> long as you have 3-miles visibility and 2000 ft from clouds. No radio
> contact is required in either case.
>
> I'm glad this discussion came up -- I like the confidence that comes
from
> having to think it through.
>
> BTW, we are moving smartly toward the day our Firefly gets going.
Thanks
> for your advice on wheels and tires. I found a couple of evenly worn
> 6.00 -6 Aeronca tires that weigh a little less than the balloon tires
you're
> using. I thought we might try those on the Azusa metal wheels. .
>
> Good luck with your renovation.
>
> Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88
> Reedley, Calif.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: www.aeroelectric.com |
>Is anybody else having trouble getting into Aeroelectric.com? Bob says it's
>fixed, but I still can't get in. Even dumped my caches.
>Darrel
>
As I write these words, I'm waiting for an e-mail from
a NEW service provider that will give me the IP address
to begin transfering our site to another server. The
fellow I spoke with during the signup process says our
problem is not uncommon in the industry when domains
are transfered wholesale from one machine to another.
It seems that we still exist on both machines. Depending
on which way the wind is blowing and/or other forces
unknown to me, I can FTP into the real site or the old
one. Some folks in the field are experiencing similar
variability with browser access to the site.
Given the extremely poor engineering services I've been
offered over the past three weeks, I'll be officially
pulling the plug on DTC.net (old) and bewell.net (new)
as soon as Internic can broadcast the change to the
internet community. The whole process should be done
within the next three to four days although it could
happen as early as Monday. I'll post a general note
when the new site begins to recognize aeroelectric.com
The new site will offer secure business transactions,
web site searches, and a number of other nifty features
that will help us expand our level of services to the
amateur built aviation community. My thanks to those
who have been keeping me up to date on site access and
for your patience. The light at the end of the tunnel
is NOT an oncoming train . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Question |
>> An alternator puts out dirty current, which some electronics can not
>> handle, but by running it through
>> a battery cleans it up. So if you lost your battery, 2 alternators could
>> be a whole lot of nothing.
>> But with 2 batteries you have 30 hours or more of reserve if you lost
>> your alternator.
>>
>> No two alternators!
>Bob......What's your opinion on this
Yeah but . . . . repeat after me, "I solomly swear that I will
do my best to observe the laws of physics and conduct maintenance
on my airplane to live well INSIDE the envelope of operations
for the equipment installed."
There is no reason for anyone to LOOSE a battery. If you flog
it until it doesn't crank the engine for the 4th or 5th time,
don't do periodic capacity checks or fail to replace it
periodically to insure minimal levels of servicability, -AND-
you suffer from the "if-it's-good-for-50K-Cessnas, it's-gotta-
be-good-for-my-airplane" syndrome, then indeed, 20 alternators
wouldn't do you any good. Let's reveiw the facts and physics:
(1) Most alternators do indeed need SOME form of battery on line
not so much for cleaning up "dirty current" as for stabilization
of the alternator/regulator's voltage regulatrion servo-loop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Temporary Articles Access . . . |
Folk who have been trying to download the past
several days article announcements may access them
from here:
http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Air combat simulator |
I am looking for a good WWII air combat simulator. Anyone know of a good
one?
(Please type "Gary" in the subject box so I don't miss your message.)
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
gbthacker(at)hotmail.com
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cjc0751(at)banet.net |
| Subject: | Re: Air combat simulator |
Gary Thacker wrote:
> I am looking for a good WWII air combat simulator. Anyone know of a good
> one?
Depends if you're looking for a computer simulator or
simulation using real airplanes.
For computer: www.imagiconline.com/games/warbirds.
For airplanes: www.aircombatusa.com
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air combat simulator |
I was trying to get somethin to work on my pc. I downloaded microsofts
Fighter Ace and it was pretty good but my tower had to be replaced and the
new verson I downloaded didn't allow me to engage in arial combat. I was
wondering if there was a cd or somethin out there that was pretty good I
could buy. This on line stuff could get expensive.
Gary
>From: cjc0751(at)banet.net
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Air combat simulator
>Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 19:20:41 -0500
>
>
>Gary Thacker wrote:
>
> > I am looking for a good WWII air combat simulator. Anyone know of a
>good
> > one?
>
>Depends if you're looking for a computer simulator or
>simulation using real airplanes.
>For computer: www.imagiconline.com/games/warbirds.
>For airplanes: www.aircombatusa.com
>
>chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rotax EGT-too cool is not cool |
Hi Gang,
A while back I had posted some info on my quest to pitch the new Powerfin "B"
type three blade to my 582 hung on as Mk-3. Finally got it where it was (I
thought) perfect. Climb was at 6400 Max at WOT was 6700. I had some early
problems in which the temps would increase to 1200 on power on descents. Long
story short I raised the needles to the bottom clip. Voila! Engine still ran
great temps were cool and all was wonderful.
Then, a couple of flights ago I had the vague sensation that the engine
wasn't quite as smooth as before. But, it was running fine, so maybe it was
my imagination. Next flight it wasn't turning up as much as before but still
running OK. Last flight was noticeably rougher and only turning 6000 on
climb. CHTs all normal during this time.
Pulled plugs and -- GAACK, sooty carbon on thread shell, wet looking
electrodes. All plugs same story. Cleaned and re-oiled air filter, but it
really looked quite clean.
Here's what this neophyte Rotaxer thinks. Temps at cruise settings below 1100
are too cool, and thus not cool. I think you should accept the occasional
1200 on partial power (unloaded) descents and look for minimum of 1100 at
cruise. Mine were 1060/1080. Tomorrow I install new plugs and put needle back
to stock clip (one up from bottom). BTW I usually cruise at 5800-6000.
OK Rotax gurus, Fire away...
Bill George
Un cool 582 Mk-3 Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mr. Aviation" <corsair_f4u1d(at)yahoo.com> |
Ok guys... I'm asking a loaded question and expect
whatever you send me... no need to be kind. I am
considering a Kolb Mk III, however, I am also
considering the CGS Hawk Arrow II. Why should I lean
towards the Kolb and not the Arrow? The advantages of
the Arrow is the time to build and I believe the price
is less for a comparable flying craft. The Mk III has
side by side seating and the Arrow is tandem, doesn't
matter to me.
Any reasons given to tell me I'm crazy will be
appreciated. If you want to e-mail me without
clogging up the Kolb list, please send to:
corsair_f4u1d(at)yahoo.com
Thanks in advance,
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kegebeins" <paak(at)csinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air combat simulator |
A very good WWII flight simulator is "WWII Fighters" by JANES. Go to the
janes website for info on it and screenshots. You can play online against
people, and it has most of the important planes from WWII.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Thacker <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com>
kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, November 20, 1999 6:34 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Air combat simulator
>
>I am looking for a good WWII air combat simulator. Anyone know of a good
>one?
>
>(Please type "Gary" in the subject box so I don't miss your message.)
>
>
>Gary
>
>Souderton,Pa.
>gbthacker(at)hotmail.com
>
> |
> ____F i r e S t a r____
> ___(+)___
> (_)
> \ /
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb vs Hawk |
>considering a Kolb Mk III, however, I am also
>considering the CGS Hawk Arrow II. Why should I lean
>towards the Kolb and not the Arrow
THe Kolbs welded steel cage and steel high stress points would be the bigest
differance to me. increadible differance in crash protection and the
airframe is going to hold up much better over time, because all the hard
points are steel. Bolts in thin wall aluminum tubing will wear fairly
quickly and you will need to start replacing parts.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax EGT-too cool is not cool |
What makes you think that your EGT temps are accurate to begin with? Are the
probes located correctly? I run about 1100 on my 582 often as low as 1000 at
full power climb and consider 1200 a hard ceiling. I try to jet out for about
1100 at wide open throttle in level flight at 67/6800 RPM which tends to give
me about 1150 in level flight at 6000 RPM. A slight leaning into midrange is
normal with the Bing though it can be eliminated if so desired. I have no
experiance with a Powerfin prop though my friend has one on his Kolb. What is
your ground static at full power--should be around 6200 give or take a bit?
Be carefull about letting the EGT rise while descending at reduced power--hot
seizure is a possibility. I suspect your EGT are not as high as you think or
you may be over propped a bit causing a rich midrange in conjunction with
your having lowered the needle clips. The needle jet and needle clips
primarily affect mixture in the midrange and the main jets tend to take over
progressively above 6000 RPM. CHT is about useless on the 582--take it off. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb vs Hawk |
The Kolb is built like an airplane and the Hawk is built like an ultralight.
JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb vs Hawk |
Well, I'm not totally familiar with the Hawk, but I'd sure like to hear some
of the responses. Since I'm building a Kolb, obviously I'm partial to them,
but the only thing I can say for sure about the Hawk, is that it's too small
for a man my size. I'm 6' tall and weigh 205 lbs., and the Hawk was too
narrow for my shoulders. I felt "squeezed" in the cockpit, and felt like it
would be a rough place to be in turbulence. I'd feel embarrassed if any of
our guys gave you a bad time for trying to gather information to make an
informed choice. As far as price, seems to me the Kolb is just about the
most economical of the bunch. The new Kitplanes puts it around $2000.00
less than the Hawk II Arrow. One of the most consistent comments about the
Kolb concerns the wonderful handling and manners of the planes. Haven't
heard too much about the Hawk in that respect, but they'll have to go some,
just to break even. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mr. Aviation <corsair_f4u1d(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 7:55 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb vs Hawk
>
> Ok guys... I'm asking a loaded question and expect
> whatever you send me... no need to be kind. I am
> considering a Kolb Mk III, however, I am also
> considering the CGS Hawk Arrow II. Why should I lean
> towards the Kolb and not the Arrow? The advantages of
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Ground Integrity Measurements |
I've had two requests recently on an article I did
three years ago for KAB magazine on bulding a 4-wire
milliohmmeter. I've resurected the article and updated
it. Interested builders can find this 150K .pdf file at:
http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
Okay, you asked for infor on aerial combat simulators. I have my two cents.
I loved the idea of combat on line, real time. It was a ball. I bought
micosoft combat etc and it is good. It offered on line. Okay. It also
offered the Zone. It costs $10 a month and was cool, until I got a
sidewinder stick and went six months subscription and was supposed to get a
free T-shirt. Bull Stuff. It is just a con. What you find out is as you
get kills and rank you move up and it gets harder. That is okay, I like to
push the envelope. The down side is it is just chuck full of geeks modifying
their aircraft to out turn, out climb and outshoot anything. These hackers
dominate the system now and it takes the fun out. For along time, I could
not even score no matter how many parts came off their plane. I was getting
shot and killed with one bullet and their plane was not on the radar screen
or in sight. The hackers took the fun out of it. I sound like a winer but
you pay good money for some fun and someone takes the fun out of it by
cheating. I never got my shirt and they wont answer any mail or repond. It
is a big con. I had to threaten microsoft with legal action to get my $30
rebate on my sidewinder. Even my attorneys assistant got screwed by these
people. If any one wants to take on Microscoft for fraud, my lawyer is the
man to get. By the way, if you ever buy anything with a rebate, make sure
you make a copy of everything you send and send it reg. return receipt.
Figure at least 1 million sticks and cheat 500,000 of them out of $30, lot of
money. Even if you delay the refund three months on the other 500,000, the
interest alone is staggering. Just my two cents worth. I would not buy
microsoft anything again unless I have no other choice. I dont like getting
taken that way. I am not done with the "Zone" yet. Anybody want further
details or have been cheated also, please let me know. thanks. Sorry for
taken up space on the list but this concerns everyone who buys things and
someone asked. G'day Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cjc0751(at)banet.net |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb vs Hawk |
Christopher John Armstrong wrote:
> THe Kolbs welded steel cage and steel high stress points would be the bigest
> differance to me.
Good point.
The thing I notice the most is the wing construction.
The Kolb has aluminum ribs, a big cylindrical aluminum main spar and
you cover the wings with some covering system.
The Hawk is dacron sailcloth and battons and stuff like an ultralight.
I've heard there is nothing you can do with the Mark III that will
damage the wings (excluding collisions).
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Anton Venter" <adventer(at)netactive.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Muffler bracket failure. |
please remove
-----Original Message-----
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Date: Saturday, November 13, 1999 4:03 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Muffler bracket failure.
>
>I have FF#70, and had to make new cross pcs., mainly so I could get a
>plug wrench down on the plugs wothout hitting the upturned edge of the
>L pc. I got new L angles, but could only find 1.5x1.5 instead of the
>1.25 stuff. Turned them so that the upright side was to the rear. of
>course had to make new head bolt holes, and egg-out a crescent-shaped
>area for the plug. A little work where they went up to the fore/aft pc
>with the bushings. No sign of fractures. bn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb vs Hawk |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Jim,
A friend of mine is building the Hawk Arrow and the biggest problem that
I saw was the engine mount is all aluminum and below it is a spider
gusset holding four or five tubes together with aluminum rivets. I can
imagine the tubes tweaking under the torque at full power. How long will
it take to wear the rivets out? Maybe this is why there aren't many
flying today. The wing structure has nothing to compare with Kolbs fat
5" main spar. If I had built a Hawk back in '86, today I'd be worried
about all those aluminum rivets coming loose.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
(12 years old and will be able to pass it on to the next generation
pilot)
writes:
>
>
>Ok guys... I'm asking a loaded question and expect
>whatever you send me... no need to be kind. I am
>considering a Kolb Mk III, however, I am also
>considering the CGS Hawk Arrow II. Why should I lean
>towards the Kolb and not the Arrow? The advantages of
>the Arrow is the time to build and I believe the price
>is less for a comparable flying craft. The Mk III has
>side by side seating and the Arrow is tandem, doesn't
>matter to me.
>
>Any reasons given to tell me I'm crazy will be
>appreciated. If you want to e-mail me without
>clogging up the Kolb list, please send to:
>
>corsair_f4u1d(at)yahoo.com
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | All-Electric Airplane and Website Progress |
I've just uploaded an article that mirrors some new info
that will be included in upcomming Revision 9 to the book.
It deals with all-electric airplanes for those of us who
are on a budget . . . aren't we all?
See:
http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/
I've also uploaded our entire website including articles
to a new server on the east coast. Between cable modem
here and their multiple fiber optic feeds, the whole
30+ megabyte upload took less than 30 minutes. I've still
got some bugs to work out on how to speak to their
forms mailer. I'm also pondering their secure server
features and site search capabilities . . . once I get
educated, our site should take some quantum leaps forward.
Thanks to all for the time and effort to give me
feedback while we were still wrestling with the old service
provider . . . those folks are history.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FireFly Altimeter Static Port |
Just got back from installing and testing a static port connection to my
altimeter. The first problem was that I could not get the plastic
plug(snubber) out of the inlet to the altimeter. I finally took the @&# thing
out of the panel to see why the plug would not unscrew. The answer was that
it was not threaded and had to be wrenched out like a champagne cork. Once I
got it out I could see that the thing had no threads I jambed a piece of 1/4"
Al tubing in the fitting, connected the static system tube and took her up
for a test. I flew strictly by seat of the pants not trusting the ASI or Alt
under these conditions. Surprise ! It all worked great. I couldn't really
tell how accurate the Alt is but it did not seem to be far off. All I have to
do now is fly with someone who has a calibrated Alt to confirm the accuracy
and make the installation permanent. The instrument is a 3 1/8' single
needle, 0-6,000 ft with a alt compensation knob and no window. Hope this
saves someone else some grief.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"III"
| Subject: | Re: Ground Integrity Measurements |
Brother Nuckolls:
I have observed and admired your obvious expertise with matters electric for
some time now...
As an uneducated member of the legions of the unwashed and untechnical, I
petition you for some assistance with a little matter of electronic
inconvenience which has plagued me for the past few days as I attempt to
coax life from what I laughingly refer to as my airplane.... 447 Firefly
that is....
I meticulously wired the thing per the instructions ... installed the EIS
per the instructions... Hung the Key West rectifier furnished by the EIS
folks, per the instructions...
The rectifier gleefully blows the specified 1 amp slo-blo's faster than the
institutional might of Radio Shack can manufacture and distribute the little
doobers... They know me by my mother's maiden name at the local Radio Shack
at this point... Have bought so many fuses they no longer have the heart to
make fun of me as I crawl to the counter and ask for more .... they now
merely push them over the edge and take whatever remittence I manage to lift
to the countertop...
I installed the slo-blo 1 amp fuse in the line between the Rotax lighting
coil lead (yellow one) and the yellow lead on the rectifier as instructed...
When I cranked the engine, it instantly blew the slo blo... Even with zero
load on the rectifier (EIS in "off" position and no fast blo fuse in the
holder in the line at the EIS), it blows the sol-blo... With the leads to
the EIS physically disconnected, it blows the slo blo... With the 2200 mfd
capacitor (in lieu of battery) off-line, it blows the slo blo... I double
checked the grounds to the case of the rectifier, put jumpers across to the
crankcase to verify ground, and it blew the slo-blo... I can now walk up the
thing and simply lay my gnarled hand upon the starter handle, and it blows
the slo-blo...
Had the retired double-E engineer from next door in to look at it all, he
cannot find anything overtly wrong with my liberal arts wiring job, but
marvelled at the quaint instructions and schematics provided.... He
suggested small animal sacrifices to the EIS god... (I mentioned that I had
a maintenance-float cat with bad kidneys that might serve the purpose...)
Incidently, as he was leaving, I hit the garage door opener, and it blew the
slo-blo... One more day, and I anticipate that merely switching on the
damned light in the garage will bolw the slo-blo...
My question, Good Sir, is do you know of any reason why this horrible
sequence of events should be occurring? Is there anything further I can
check before calling the EIS monarchy in Grand Rapids...? Are there any
additional tests I can make with a meter to check out the rectifier...?
The lighting unit on the Rotax is obviously putting out ample AC, witness
the cubic yard of fried fuses I have accumulated... I am baffled that the
fuses blow, even with no load or even a circuit completed on the load side
of the rectifier...
Any light you may shed on this matter would be greatly appreciated...
I am, Sir, your Humble Servant,
B. Tuton
Beauford, the Aluminum Butcher of Brandon, Florida...
Being built by FireFly #076
-----Original Message-----
Date: Sunday, November 21, 1999 2:36 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Ground Integrity Measurements
>
>I've had two requests recently on an article I did
>three years ago for KAB magazine on bulding a 4-wire
>milliohmmeter. I've resurected the article and updated
>it. Interested builders can find this 150K .pdf file at:
>
>http://home.kscable.com/aeroelectric/
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ////
> (o o)
> ===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
> < Independence Kansas: the >
> < Jurassic Park of aviation. >
> < Your source for brand new >
> < 40 year old airplanes. >
> =================================
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground Integrity Measurements |
In a message dated 11/21/99 10:16:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Hung the Key West rectifier furnished by the EIS
folks, per the instructions...
The rectifier gleefully blows the specified 1 amp slo-blo's faster than the
>>
Take the fuse out of the AC side [input] and put it on the DC [output] side.
The rectifier/reg. is probably the "shunting" type and therefore will blow
even a 5 amp fuse. If you must have a fuse on the AC side it should be about
a 20 amp slow blow.
I know all this from experience [and a call to Grand Rapids Tech.].
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb vs Hawk |
In a message dated 11/21/99 1:20:51 AM Eastern Standard Time,
larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Ok guys... I'm asking a loaded question and expect
> whatever you send me... no need to be kind. I am
> considering a Kolb Mk III, however, I am also
> considering the CGS Hawk Arrow II. Why should I lean
> towards the Kolb and not the Arrow? The advantages of >>
Don't know about the Arrow II but when I was lookin' at the CGS and compared
it to the Firestar, I really wanted to get the CGS cause they are built right
in my backyard almost but I couldn't get over how the mounting of the engine
almost included it in the cage with me (Kolb is mounted up higher) and I
imagined how noisy that would be...the other thing was that the engine
mounting dictated a smaller prop circle!!....hence the Kolb climb would be
impossible!.................. GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Integrity Measurements |
Good to hear from ya, Beauford. You might as well forget an answer; he
doesn't seem to read the mail, just posts on it from time to time.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Beauford Tuton <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 1999 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ground Integrity Measurements
>
> Brother Nuckolls:
> I have observed and admired your obvious expertise with matters electric
for
> some time now...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
OK fellow Kolbers, I seek your collective advise. I recently purchased new
Asuza aluminum wheels and 8x600 balloon tires for my Firestar II. Problem
is, I can't seem to get them balanced. This causes the airframe to shake
upon lift off. Help. Skeeter, El Paso.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel balance |
In a message dated 11/22/99 7:35:23 AM, rr(at)htg.net writes:
<<
OK fellow Kolbers, I seek your collective advise. I recently purchased new
Asuza aluminum wheels and 8x600 balloon tires for my Firestar II. Problem
is, I can't seem to get them balanced. This causes the airframe to shake
upon lift off. Help. Skeeter, El Paso.
>>
Mine are also out real bad, best fix with no weight, I apply the brakes just
after liftoff.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel balance |
Hey Dave, I balance my tires like yours by using the heavy side to the
bottom method and a lot of stick on lead weights. Make sure your wheel
doesn't drag at all before you attempt this or your effort will be in vain.
It worked great for me, it took a lot of weight. I'm happy with it.
Firehawk
>From: "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Kolb-List: Wheel balance
>Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 05:34:14 -0700
>
>
>OK fellow Kolbers, I seek your collective advise. I recently purchased new
>Asuza aluminum wheels and 8x600 balloon tires for my Firestar II. Problem
>is, I can't seem to get them balanced. This causes the airframe to shake
>upon lift off. Help. Skeeter, El Paso.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>> What is the latest thoughts on using the foil dipole antenna from S-H?
>> I already have it and want to use it. Also what is the best choice for
>> other antenna locations? Nav, transponder, marker beacon, elt? There
>> are more 'Star's out there flying now so we should have some definitive
>> answers from real world experiences. All help would be appreciated since
>> I am bonding the fuselage and this is an integral part of the job if you
>> want ot conceal the antenna.
Real world perspectives on amateur built antenna installations
run the gamut from (a) doesn't work worth a @#$@#! to (b) works
really fine! Never have I seen engineering test data to compare
a new antenna with an old one. Go ahead and install any and all
antennas you might like to try. If they're inside, there's little
harm done if you decide your experiment falls into the !@#$@#$!
category. At the worst, you'll replace them with time honored
whiskers sticking out everywhere. Odds are in your favor that
they WILL perform adequately to you task.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel balance |
In a message dated 99-11-22 7:29:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, rr(at)htg.net
writes:
<< Problem
is, I can't seem to get them balanced. This causes the airframe to shake
upon lift off. Help >>
Squeeze the brakes for a second after liftoff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel balance |
In a message dated 11/22/99 7:29:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, rr(at)htg.net
writes:
<< I can't seem to get them balanced. This causes the airframe to shake
upon lift off. Help. Skeeter, El Paso.
>>
I just quit trying to fight it & tap my brakes soon as the wheels leave the
ground.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Integrity Measurements |
Bob, Big Lar and Howard:
Thanks much to each of you for answering up....
I got on the phone with the wizardette (Sandy) at Grand Rapids Tech this
afternoon....
Seems the schematic I have is dated... as, apparently, is just about
everything else
I own or fool with, including my prostate... anyway, the current plans have
no fuse at all between the lighting coil and the rectifier... as Howard
suggested, the fuse is supposed to be downstream from the rectifier on the
load side... I took it out from between the coil and the rectifier, and
the EIS fired right up this evening... I basked in the cool green glow of
the LCD until the mosquitos made it not worth the effort...
Two days and 18 fuses down the drain.... made a friend for life at the
Radio Shack, though... (sigh...) Gotta be a better way to meet people....
Thanks again,
Beauford of Brandon
Building F.F. # 076
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 3:10 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ground Integrity Measurements
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Beauford Tuton <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net>
>To: ; ; III
>
>Sent: Sunday, November 21, 1999 7:13 PM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ground Integrity Measurements
>
>
>
>>
>> Brother Nuckolls:
>> I have observed and admired your obvious expertise with matters electric
>for
>> some time now...
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel balance |
+Brakes?
-----Original Message-----
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Wheel balance
>
>In a message dated 99-11-22 7:29:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, rr(at)htg.net
>writes:
>
><< Problem
> is, I can't seem to get them balanced. This causes the airframe to shake
> upon lift off. Help >>
>
>
>Squeeze the brakes for a second after liftoff
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
What's the best way to balance a wood prop, and what do you fill the little
nicks with Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sharp" <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Matco wheels...... |
Ok guys....
I've spent the better part of the day trying to get my matco split wheels to
seal........ UUUUGGGGHHHH!!!
Please could the grand wizards of the Kolb list PLEASE tell me the secret to
getting the "O" ring to seal.....
Spice, my dachshund, she is my bulding partner.. is tired of hearing me
yell.....
Mike
Mark III sn 294
cut first tubing 10 - 97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco wheels...... |
>
> I've spent the better part of the day trying to get my matco split wheels to
> seal........ UUUUGGGGHHHH!!!
> Mike
Mike and Kolbers:
The simple way is throw the big "O" ring away, buy a pair of
inner tubes and use them.
I have gone both ways, but tubes, for me, work better.
Without tubes I always had one tire with a slow, slow leak.
With tubes I can run lower pressure in larger tires, less
prone to punctures, and increases the overall strength of
the tire.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance & repair |
Randy,
Wipe the nicks with alcohaol to remove any oil. Pack the hole with baking
powder till its slightly rounded above surrounding wood. Then saturate the
powder with super glue. It will react & get very hot, then become hard as the
wood. Sand the hump smooth with the curve of the prop & you have an instant,
permanent repair! The density of the repair is about the same as wood so
balance is not adversely effected. I've done this in the field
many times (Carry the stuff as part of my emergency kit) & never have had a
problem with the material separating with hundreds of hours on it. One of my
dings was from a socket that impacted the prop & left a ding almost the size of
a quarter! The stuff really works!
I balance my props using clear polyurethane spray paint. Spray it a little
heavier than you need because as the solvent evaporates the blade lightens up.
If you do too much just spay the opposite end. With patience, you can balance
your prop to within a gram (about the weight of a dollar bill). Wet sand
between coats with 400 grit sandpaper. ...Richard Swiderski
Randy wrote:
>
> What's the best way to balance a wood prop, and what do you fill the little
> nicks with Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground Integrity Measurements |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Beauford,
Glad to see you back! I though the cat had done you in.
As one who is just about to put pen to check for an EIS, I am following
your dilemma with a vested interest.
Do I recall correctly that you have the PT switch plus the 3 for the EIS
on your control stick? If so, did you design your own or chicken out and
buy the product?
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
>
>What's the best way to balance a wood prop, and what do you fill the little
>nicks with Thanks
>
fill the nicks with talcum powder and then put in a couple drops of crazy
glue. Sand smooth and then using whatever balancer you have paint the light
side with spray varnish or urethane. Paint the light side untill it is a bit
heavier than the dry side to make up for the evaporation as the paint dries.
Woody
Interested in free energy? Try http://geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/lab/1135
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco wheels...... |
Mike,
I agree with John that tubes are the best & most heavy duty fix. If you are
a
fanatic for weight & can't accept the two pounds of inner tube, I had success
throwing away the o-ring & coating all the mating surfaces with RTV silicone (the
red or blue gooey stuff from the parts store for making gaskets). I even coated
the tire & rim interface. They never leaked even at low pressure. But I still
got leaks from thorns! I solved that by putting in about 4oz of that liquid
sealer from a bike shop. As an unexpected surprize, the liquid sealer also
atomatically balances the tires! I didn't have to hit the brakes after take off
anymore to stop the shakes. Richard S
John Hauck wrote:
>
> >
> > I've spent the better part of the day trying to get my matco split wheels to
> > seal........ UUUUGGGGHHHH!!!
>
> > Mike
>
>
> Mike and Kolbers:
>
> The simple way is throw the big "O" ring away, buy a pair of
> inner tubes and use them.
>
> I have gone both ways, but tubes, for me, work better.
> Without tubes I always had one tire with a slow, slow leak.
>
> With tubes I can run lower pressure in larger tires, less
> prone to punctures, and increases the overall strength of
> the tire.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel balance |
Hey guys, I have been putting up with this on my trainers for years, and
recently tried a set of new Air Hawks that were so cheap at Oshkosh I
could not pass them up. The wheel shake is now gone. no more wheel
weights. Taxi and landings are WAY more controllable. The Air Hwaks just
seem to track better. They are not quite as tall as the balloon tires,
but it didnt seem to make a difference.
Price is about 35 each with shipping, and as they are designed for
172`s, I bet they will outlast the balloon tires by a mile. (no pun
intended)
Mike Brown
Olympic Ultralights
http://www.olyair.net (under const)
back to lurk mode
michael highsmith wrote:
>
>
> Hey Dave, I balance my tires like yours by using the heavy side to the
> bottom method and a lot of stick on lead weights. Make sure your wheel
> doesn't drag at all before you attempt this or your effort will be in vain.
> It worked great for me, it took a lot of weight. I'm happy with it.
> Firehawk
>
> >From: "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net>
> >Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Kolb-List: Wheel balance
> >Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 05:34:14 -0700
> >
> >
> >OK fellow Kolbers, I seek your collective advise. I recently purchased new
> >Asuza aluminum wheels and 8x600 balloon tires for my Firestar II. Problem
> >is, I can't seem to get them balanced. This causes the airframe to shake
> >upon lift off. Help. Skeeter, El Paso.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
1) Remove the prop
2) hang it over the mantle on a nail.
3) adjust to level attitude
4) Open beer and admire prop.
5) Call Mike and buy Ivo prop :)
Lockwood sells a neat little balancer. Two peices. One fits into the
prop hole, the other is a cone that fits into the first peice. You set
the prop on it, take a measure at one tip and bring the blade around 180
degrees and measure the other tip. remove or add material to balance
accordingly.
If I have to use a wood prop(I dont- I use Ivo`s) or am doing one for a
customer, I sand the leading edges and fill dents with a mix of sawdust
and white glue or T-88. Then I varnish the whole prop with Carver Tripps
Spar Varnish (best to spray it on). Once the prop is varnished, you can
do the final balance with a spray can of clear to get it perfect. Takes
a bit of dinckin` around, but if you really get picky, even a wood prop
can be made SMOOOOOOOTH. (at least until the humidity changes).
Always use some Lemon Pledge on it after flying to remove the bugs,
grass, birds, deer and loose cockpit articles, (which also helps keep it
sealed), then level the prop horizontally. Vertical is a bad thing.
Mike
Randy wrote:
>
>
> What's the best way to balance a wood prop, and what do you fill the little
> nicks with Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco wheels...... |
If you grease up the o-ring with petrolateum, slide it over the rim and
reach in and push it into place, it will not leak. If you get a leak, it
is more likely the tire or the edge of the rim. Unless the o-ring is old
and cracked it should do fine, I have never had a leak. The Airhawks are
tube type tires, yet I dont use tubes. I just use a bead of bead sealer
from the tire store and fill em up. Never had a leak and you save a LOT
of weight.
Mike
Michael Sharp wrote:
>
>
> Ok guys....
>
> I've spent the better part of the day trying to get my matco split wheels to
> seal........ UUUUGGGGHHHH!!!
>
> Please could the grand wizards of the Kolb list PLEASE tell me the secret to
> getting the "O" ring to seal.....
>
> Spice, my dachshund, she is my bulding partner.. is tired of hearing me
> yell.....
>
> Mike
>
> Mark III sn 294
> cut first tubing 10 - 97
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Wheel Imbalance: An answer from the Kolb Archives... |
Dave asked...
>OK fellow Kolbers, I seek your collective advise. I recently purchased
new
>Asuza aluminum wheels and 8x600 balloon tires for my Firestar II. Problem
>is, I can't seem to get them balanced. This causes the airframe to shake
>upon lift off. Help. Skeeter, El Paso.
I found this in the archives...I thought I remembered posting it.
Last year I had MAJOR vibration in the wheels, most noticable just after
liftoff. It was not detectable on the ground but was quite distracting
during the first 5-8 seconds of climbout. It also shook the instrument
panel badly. This winter I balanced the wheels and it has completely cured
the problem.
The wheels are Cheng Chin 6" tires on Matco aluminum rims. These are the
ones supplied with the MKiii if you buy the hydraulic brakes system.
I used a simple bubble balancer that I had bought years ago from J.C.
Whitney for car tires and determined that to balance by adding 1/4" steel
washers to one of the bolts that hold the rim to the hub it was going to
require 25 of them for each wheel! Obviously this was because the bolts
are too close to the center for effectiveness. So I began looking for a
better way. Someone on this list had suggested putting stick-on weights on
the rims but I couldn't locate them. And I am always fanatical about
weight addition to the plane, so I decided to REMOVE weight instead, to
obtain proper balance. I actually removed tire rubber with a grinder to
obtain the proper balance! I used a 4" Makita handheld grinder to make
additional grooves in the tires, parallel to the original tire ribs. It
required grooves in each rib, 3/16" deep and 1/4" wide, for a distance of 8
or so inches around, on each tire, to balance. This does not look as crude
as it sounds and if I didn't tell you about it you may not even notice it
while looking at the plane. I was careful to keep the grooves neat and
parallel to the ribs and I waxed them after grinding to eliminate the
sticky raw rubber effect so they don't pickup dirt. These Cheng Chin tires
are real cheap and there is a noticable bump in them, presumably where some
plies overlap in their construction. Not surprisingly, this bump was on
the side of the tire that needed mass removed, in both tires I checked.
And both tires had about the same amount of imbalance.
Balance problem is gone! Instruments are thanking me for it. No more
distracting vibrations and noises at liftoff. Less than zero weight added
(I wish I could come up with more ideas that actually REMOVED weight from
the plane!). If you are having this problem, I suggest you balance,
whatever the method you'll appreciate the results.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Using oil lines for a battery cable. |
Earlier this week, there was a little bit of discussion
about combining an oil line with a ground system in
a canard pusher aircraft. The line was to bring warm
oil forward for use as a cabin heat source. The writer
wondered if the same line could be used as an electrical
conductor to replace a 2AWG ground wire.
I could see how it might be done. The potential hazard
would arise from the single point of contact between
the liquid carrying tubing and the electrical connection
to that tubing. If that joint, and the one adjacent to
it were of impecable integrity, then no electrical arcing
and subsequent damage to the liquid carrying component
could occur due to poor conduction, overheating and
arcing.
I could see a copper strap looped around the tubing at
some appropriate location, soldered to the tubing and
formed into a tab where a wire could be bolted on
to carry electrons off to a destination separate from
the oil.
I suggested that the technique might save 2.5 pounds
in the total weight of the airplane and further that
the builder consider the trade off between the ease
and confidence of a tube and wire installation versus
taking on the task of making sure the dual use
installation was technically sound.
I expected to get a flood of mail about this . . .
I have received a few responses that run in this
general flavor:
>I've been mechanicing for a while and the general formula is to keep the
>electrical and fluid lines seperate. It introduces to many oppurtunities for
>sparking which would creat hot spots that would put holes in the tubing.
Understood. That philosophy operates under the assumption that
sparking and arcing WILL occur. If one designs a system wherein
arcing CANNOT occur, then the system is intrinsically safe.
For example, certain potential electrical energy levels are
ALLOWED inside a fuel tank because we understand the physics
that supports combustion and/or explosions. Saturated vapors
cannot combust due to lack of oxygen, ignition cannot happen
below certain energy densities within an explosive atmosphere,
etc. Automobiles have depended on these simple truths for
over 60 years and we've yet to see the ass-ends of cars
being blown off by their fuel gages.
Bureaucratic posturing and rewriting of the laws of physics
to support TWA 800 soothsayers not withstanding, there are
ways to bring potentially hazardous substances into close
proximity with potentially antagonistic phenomenon with comfort.
It's like defining the weight and ballance envelope for an
airplane, stay inside and your future is bright, venture outside
and risks multiply rapidly.
Rules of thumb, general formulas and other sage advice don't
have to consider anything except the stature of the authors,
their power to promote them, and our willingness to accept them.
The amateur built airplane arena is one of the few places
left were politicians and bureaucrats have yet to take a
strangle-hold on philosophy and technology. In this venue,
no idea is unworthy of consideration under the light and
magnifying glass of physics.
Personally, I'd have no problem fabricating such a system
and flying it with confidence. An amateur builder may want
to solicit the aid of one experienced in the mechanical
skills of putting the parts together. He might even consider
backing off the oil line and using the vacuum line (if
he's unfortunate enough to need one) to do the dual task.
I took on this issue to illustrate the precious value of
the freedom we have to do good science on our airplanes.
I'm sure I came off a bit wild-eyed a few days ago when
I responded to someone's query about an FAA inspector's
request to do a detailed weight and balance document for
an amateur built airplane. It's not that doing such a
document is a BAD idea, but it's not necessary from a
regulatory perspective. Nor does it have much value in
the future operation of the airplane . . . perhaps an
exercise with EDUCATIONAL value but certainly no more.
The requestor may have been genuinely interested in
advancing the builder's understanding of airplanes. No
matter what HIS/HER motivation, should some future up-n-
coming bureaucrat find reference to or even a copy of such
a document in an FAA file, there's an opportunity for
an educational exercise to take root and grow up as
a requirement.
Ben Franklin, at the signing of the Declaration of
Independence allowed as how, "We should all hang
together or most certainly we shall all hang
separately." The future of our craft and right to
practice it is delicately balanced on our ability
to "hang together." Fly comfortably my friends
but be watchful for the noses of camels circling
our collective tent . . .
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Solid State Strobe?!?! |
Yesterday afternoon I saw a prototype of a red flashing
beacon sent in to Raytheon for evaluation. The light emitters
were an array of about 50 high intensity RED leds. The
total power draw of this beacon at 28v was .3 amps.
A 14v model would be .6 amps. Aside from the usual
glass dome over the lamps, there was only a small lump
on the bottom of the fixture to provide a housing for
flasher electronics.
As I watched the demonstration, I wondered if the intensity
and color requirements were being met but all-in-all,
the prototype was impressive. I've been pondering the
possibility of doing something similar on amateur built
airplanes. Xenon filled tubes, 300v power supplies, whining
noises in the headsets and $600 beacons need to go the
way of the dodo bird.
We may have witnessed the seeds of fulfillment of that
wish. Stay tuned.
Bob . . .
////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Independence Kansas: the >
< Jurassic Park of aviation. >
< Your source for brand new >
< 40 year old airplanes. >
=================================
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLUPSHUR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Accident Reports |
List members:
The following was reported in the FLYER of November 12, 1999, issue:
Aircraft: Kolb Twinstar TA-2.
Location: Bryan, Texas.
Injuries: One fatal.
Aircraft damage: Destroyed.
What reportedly happened:
A witness who reported seeing a shiny piece of metal trailing behind the
uitralight said the nose of the ultralight "bobbed up and down a couple of
times" and then nosed over "to the near vertical position." According to the
manufacturer, the ultralight is not equipped with an elevator trim tab. Trim
in the standard ultralight is accomplished by adjusting the spring tension on
the elevator control cable from inside the fuselage cage near the control
stick. The ultralight had been modified by the addition of a fabric-covered
trim-tab surface on the trailing edge of the left elevator. The trim tab,
which had been painted silver, measured approximately 5 by 20 inches. Paint
transfers, chaffing and rubbing found on the rudder and right elevator
indicated that the elevator trim tab had separated from the trailing edge of
the left elevator before the aircraft struck the ground. The mounting for
the outboard bracket that supported one side of the trim tab was found loose.
Paint transfer and chaffing on the trailing edge of the elevator indicated
the bracket had been loose before the accident.
Probable cause: The pilot's loss of control as a result of the partial
separation of the elevator trim tab. A factor was the improper design and
installation of the elevator trim tab.
Bill Upshur
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
I've used 5 minute epoxy to fill in the nicks with good luck. Flying off
the snow will erode the leading edge and the epoxy fills it in nicely.
Once it cures, sand it down smooth and rebalance the prop. Use a fishing
line balancer with a level to get a perfect balance that will last for a
few flights. I gave up the wood prop and got a maintenance-free Ivo. No
more filling in nicks, balancing, or re-torquing prop bolts.
Ralph
>
>What's the best way to balance a wood prop, and what do you fill the
>little
>nicks with Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | Ground Integrity Measurements |
Have no fears about the EIS system. I put one in my MK III 2 years ago.
It works great and Greg at Grand Rapids Technology is as helpful as anyone
can be if you have any problems, installation or otherwise.
Terry
On Monday, November 22, 1999 8:40 PM, Ray L Baker [SMTP:rbaker2(at)juno.com]
wrote:
>
> Beauford,
>
> Glad to see you back! I though the cat had done you in.
>
> As one who is just about to put pen to check for an EIS, I am following
> your dilemma with a vested interest.
>
> Do I recall correctly that you have the PT switch plus the 3 for the EIS
> on your control stick? If so, did you design your own or chicken out and
> buy the product?
>
> L. Ray Baker
> Lake Butler, Fl
> Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel balance |
Mike,
How does the weight Of the Air Hawks compare to the stock tires? ...Richard
S
Mike Brown wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I have been putting up with this on my trainers for years, and
> recently tried a set of new Air Hawks that were so cheap at Oshkosh I
> could not pass them up. The wheel shake is now gone. no more wheel
> weights. Taxi and landings are WAY more controllable. The Air Hwaks just
> seem to track better. They are not quite as tall as the balloon tires,
> but it didnt seem to make a difference.
> Price is about 35 each with shipping, and as they are designed for
> 172`s, I bet they will outlast the balloon tires by a mile. (no pun
> intended)
> Mike Brown
> Olympic Ultralights
> http://www.olyair.net (under const)
> back to lurk mode
>
> michael highsmith wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hey Dave, I balance my tires like yours by using the heavy side to the
> > bottom method and a lot of stick on lead weights. Make sure your wheel
> > doesn't drag at all before you attempt this or your effort will be in vain.
> > It worked great for me, it took a lot of weight. I'm happy with it.
> > Firehawk
> >
> > >From: "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net>
> > >Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To:
> > >Subject: Kolb-List: Wheel balance
> > >Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 05:34:14 -0700
> > >
> > >
> > >OK fellow Kolbers, I seek your collective advise. I recently purchased new
> > >Asuza aluminum wheels and 8x600 balloon tires for my Firestar II. Problem
> > >is, I can't seem to get them balanced. This causes the airframe to shake
> > >upon lift off. Help. Skeeter, El Paso.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Integrity Measurements |
Ray:
Good to hear from you...
Naw, I didn't put anything on the stick... Built a little bracket down the
left side of the seat, longitudinally, and put the three EIS buttons on
it... clamped it to the side tube with small hose clamps insulated with
rubber... It's out of the way, but easily reachable without leaning
forward, and I can see the suckers when I push 'em without wondering which
one is which, and which one I really pushed...(senility is comfortable, but
sometimes inconvenient).. Have not yet provided for a PTT... still
pondering that one...
The cute little EIS came to life without a hitch once I got rid of the fuse
between the lighting coil and the rectifier... silly 'ol me, I followed the
diagram I got with that sucker about a year back... Am assured by the EIS
gods in Grand Rapids that the fuse shown in my schematic is nothing but a
figment of my sour mash-sodden imagination, so I presided over a brief but
moving exorcism ceremony in the driveway and burned that imaginary document
with an imaginary zippo in trubute to the two days and many fuses I spent
trying to make it work... The neighbors were not amused, but they saw fit
to stay out of the immediate area until I was finished with the fire and the
chant...
The EIS display is very impressive... I think it will do just fine... and
you are right, they are nice folks and seem to provide excellent support for
their product...
Take care,
Beauford of Brandon....
FF # 076
-----Original Message-----
From: Ray L Baker <
Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ground Integrity Measurements
>
>Beauford,
>
>Glad to see you back! I though the cat had done you in.
>
>As one who is just about to put pen to check for an EIS, I am following
>your dilemma with a vested interest.
>
>Do I recall correctly that you have the PT switch plus the 3 for the EIS
>on your control stick? If so, did you design your own or chicken out and
>buy the product?
>
>L. Ray Baker
>Lake Butler, Fl
>Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
Has anyone mounted a soft pack on a original firestar in the wing gap area,
instead of the canister under the boom sticking out the side. Thanks again
for all the help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11/22/99 |
Thanks for the tip on static port location. I changed location of pitot tube
to floor of the nose cone just aft of the rudder pedal pivot, between the
cables. It reads the same as out of the nose and no one can walk into it if
you keep it 1" short of the nose. I took it down 4" then parallel to the
floor to the nose. Fully enclosed, my asi reads 8 mph higher. Thanks again,
G.Aman FS1274
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cunningham" <dave44m(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | selling of my Kolb |
Due to the untimely major of the motor on my Cessna 150. I am forced to sell
my Kolb KXP at a dirt cheap price. My Kolb is in excellent shape, Rotax 503
82hours T.T. fully enclosed. Always hangared with folding wings for easy
shipping. $7,000.00 is a steal for this machine. Email me for more details
dave44m(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
Through it in a river or hange it on a wall and buy a good composite prop.
The quickest way to balance a wood prop.
Firehawk
>From: "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Kolb"
>Subject: Kolb-List: prop balance
>Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:47:59 -0500
>
>
>What's the best way to balance a wood prop, and what do you fill the little
>nicks with Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground Integrity Measurements |
In a message dated 11/23/99 7:29:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< The EIS display is very impressive... I think it will do just fine... and
>>
Beauford, will you use the fuel guage Grand Rapids offers on your FF? I
highly recommend it.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
Dear Kolb Gang -
I need ideas on how to install a battery in my Mark-3.
The fuselage cage came with three small tabs, oriented horizontally,
welded to the framework near the rear of the structure. I'm assuming
these are for mounting a battery.
I plan to install the standard PowerSonic 12v, 17 amp-hour sealed
battery.
What methods have you used for securing your batteries?
Thanks in advance -
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, s/n 300, 75% finished
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack |
Randy wrote:
>
>
> Has anyone mounted a soft pack on a original firestar in the wing gap area,
> instead of the canister under the boom sticking out the side. Thanks again
> for all the help.<
I have sold (and installed) a VLS and a soft Pak system for between the
wings on Firestars. They work fine. The original zippered cover needed
to be modified a bit though, no big deal.
Mike Brown
Olympic Ultralights
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel balance |
Richard wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
> How does the weight Of the Air Hawks compare to the stock tires? ...Richard
Uh... Sorry Richard, I shoulda weighed the whole thing. As a rough
guess... seeing as how the balloons are bigger than the Airhawks, I
would guess the weight difference to be pretty much a wash due to the
thicker tread on the Airhawks. If you decide to use tubes(I dont), find
a cheap wheelbarrow tube rather than a certified ripoff.
I was amazed that I didnt have to use ANY weights to balance the new
assemblies. They also ride a LOT nicer and dont seem to want to wander
as much as tha balloons do. I dont have but about 40 landings on them
yet, but the wear is not measureable yet.
Regards,
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Battery Mount |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Dennis,
Depending on how much you weigh, you might want to consider locating the
battrery forward. I have noticed that several builders have found the
MKIII to turn out a little tail heavy. This is especially significant
for me as I go about 160/165 depending on the season of the year.
I found a picture on the web somewhere of a MKIII cockpit and it shows a
battery mounted forward of the rudder pedals. If you are interested I
will see if I can locate it again. I printed it out and pasted it on the
back of my IP mockup for future reference.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB
writes:
>
>
> Dear Kolb Gang -
> I need ideas on how to install a battery in my Mark-3.
> The fuselage cage came with three small tabs, oriented horizontally,
> welded to the framework near the rear of the structure. I'm
> assuming
> these are for mounting a battery.
> I plan to install the standard PowerSonic 12v, 17 amp-hour sealed
> battery.
> What methods have you used for securing your batteries?
> Thanks in advance -
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-3, s/n 300, 75% finished
> Cedar Crest, New Mexico
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | HAPPY THANKSGIVING.....GIVING.....GIVING..... |
Listers........
Well the Holidays are almost upon us. At least upon us here in the good old
U.S. of A. I will be traveling north to spend Thanksgiving with the In-Laws
in Cleveland. (I know, what did I do wrong in a previous life?) Since I
won't be able to post any appeals for a couple of days I thought I would
post this and say THANKS for GIVING to everyone who has done so already.
For those of you still holding out, please think about giving real soon.
I'm sure you wouldn't just pick up a magazine or paper from a news-stand
and just walk off without paying. Why would you do that here among friends.
You don't have to give a lot. Just a little for what you get out of this
fantastic list. A buck or two a month. Is that too much to ask? Sure it
would pay freight on a part or buy you lunch for 2 or 3 days but hey, I'm
sure you get a lot more long term satisfaction out of reading the List.
Lets all get on board and make this the most successful Fund Raiser yet. I
am sure Matt can use the money to cover expenses and for new equipment that
will make it an even better resource. THANKS.....for......GIVING AL
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, have a
look at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cjc0751(at)banet.net |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Mount |
Dennis & Diane Kirby wrote:
> The fuselage cage came with three small tabs, oriented horizontally,
> welded to the framework near the rear of the structure. I'm assuming
> these are for mounting a battery.
That's where we put our battery.
The battery is in an aluminum box.
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: some things i need to ask |
hello group
i am vary new to his list and i wanted to tell you what my project
is,im am gettint a kolb ultrastar nextweek end and there are some chages i
want to do to it ...only one thig really i want to put a cowl that gose
around me like on the newer mods..and i was wondering if anyone has a copie
if the plans"just"for the cage if so can you send me the meserments?
Erik baxter p.s. i would realy like it if someone would help me with this
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: some things i need to ask |
>
>hello group
>
> i am vary new to his list and i wanted to tell you what my project
>is,im am gettint a kolb ultrastar nextweek end and there are some chages i
>want to do to it ...only one thig really i want to put a cowl that gose
>around me like on the newer mods..and i was wondering if anyone has a copie
>if the plans"just"for the cage if so can you send me the meserments?
>
I would be careful with that, we tried it on a Ultrastar about 6 or seven
years ago.
Problem is-if you put the pod on with a windshield, at flying attitude the
windshield is almost perpendicular to the ground. You feel like you are
standing up when you fly these things anyway. It took off the ground but
did not climb out of ground effect. Went about 2,000 feet before it hit a
small hill and came apart. The "pod" and windshield is like pushing a 4 x
6 sheet of plywood through the air.
Goodluck, but be careful
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Mount |
>
>Dear Kolb Gang -
>I need ideas on how to install a battery in my Mark-3.
>The fuselage cage came with three small tabs, oriented horizontally,
>welded to the framework near the rear of the structure. I'm assuming
>these are for mounting a battery.
>I plan to install the standard PowerSonic 12v, 17 amp-hour sealed
>battery.
>What methods have you used for securing your batteries?
>Thanks in advance -
>
>Dennis Kirby
>Mark-3, s/n 300, 75% finished
>Cedar Crest, New Mexico
If you are talking about the three tabs that go just behind the passenger
seat, I used those three tabs to attach a little rectangular battery holder
bracket. Used some 1 1/2" aluminum angle to make it out of, and padded it
with some of the rubber that you were supposed to pad the gas tanks with.
(I didn't use those tanks) Got two big hose clamps, and rivited them to
the angles in front and back of the battery, they loop over the top and
hold it in place. There is a picture that is not real easy to see (because
I was focusing on the fuel tank) on my MKIII Tweaks and Hints page,
http://www.angelfire.com/tn/kolbmkiii/index.html
The front and back lengths of aluminum angle are tied to cross pieces at
either end to keep it rigid, and the starter solenoid is bolted to the
outboard right side. I use a motorcycle battery, and 10 gauge Monster Cable
speaker wire for all my runs. It is extra flexible and not too expensive.
Oh Yeah, the links on the page are probably outdated, maybe I'll fix that
this winter...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | [Please Read] List Fund Raiser Continues; LOC #1 December 1st! |
Greetings Listers!
Don't forget the 1999 List Fund Raiser is still in progress and there is
still plenty of time to make a Contribution and assure yourself a place
on on the first List Of Contributors (LOC)! I will post the first LOC
on December 1st and it will detail everyone that has generously made a
Contribution so far this year!!
It costs a great deal to maintain the Email and Web server systems and
high-speed Internet connection that provide the Email List services
found here. I won't even mention the many, many hours I spend each week
running the Lists, doing backups, handling subscription requests, and
creating new email and web features and services such as the Archive
Search Engine, and Archive Browser... Whoops; I think I just did! :-)
This year's Fund Raiser started out pretty slow and I was starting to
think that no one appreciated me anymore... ;-) But, in the last week
or so things have really started to pick up! So if you haven't made a
Contribution yet this year, why not join your email List friends and
make a contribution today to support the continued operation of these
Lists!
There are two easy methods for making your Contribution:
* Make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard,
surf over to:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
* Make a Contribution by check, send US Mail to:
Matronics
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
I would like to sincerely thank everyone who has already made a
Contribution so far this year! I greatly appreciate your generosity and
support and want you to know that these Lists have been made possible
directly by *YOU*!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Your Email List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: some things i need to ask |
well.
I plan on useing some aluminumsheet for the pod and fiberglass for
the cowl.
See the aluminum is real light and thin . the only reson i want to do this is
because i dont like the idea of it being that open of a cockpit but if you
can send me a copie of the cage plans on-line please i would thank you alot .
sincerly erik ha baxter p.s. sorry about all the messups in my last letter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
hello list
dose anyone on this list have a ultrastar,or a good pic of one
erik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | year-2000(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: some things i need to ask |
>
>well.
>
> I plan on useing some aluminumsheet for the pod and fiberglass for
>the cowl.
>See the aluminum is real light and thin . the only reson i want to do this
is
>because i dont like the idea of it being that open of a cockpit but if you
>can send me a copie of the cage plans on-line please i would thank you
alot .
>
>sincerly erik ha baxter p.s. sorry about all the messups in my last letter
<http://newgrounds.com/seals/index.html>
"Yo, that seal was sneaking up on me, so I turns around and I BASHES it!! I
bashes it real good.
You'd figure that yer average mammal would tend to flee at this point, but
this were the meanest baby of the meanest mother ever ( you don't think the
Navy calls their elitest fighting forces SEALS for nuttin', do ya?), and he
came back fer more I think he pulled a knife.
So's I gave it to 'em. He was getting kinda messy, but as my sainted mother
used ta tell me when I was gonna take ma nap, "Remember, seals
always fight to the death. They never give up,dont let them animal wackos
stop you!"
It brought a sentimental tear to my eye.
Have you ever considered clubbing ostriches, it's just as fun!
Wait... we were talking about dem ultralights, sorry, it's cold up here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)gis.net> |
| Subject: | Ground Integrity Measurements |
Beauford, you are killing me , great sense of humor , thank you do not
archive , chris davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: some things i need to ask |
SIR??? , I THINK I SPEAK FOR EVERYONE WHEN I SAY THIS...
HUH???
BOYS AND GIRLS THIS IS WHAT THEY HAVE BEEN TRYING TO TELL YOU..
CRACK WILL MAKE YOU CRAZY!!!
Just a friendly jab...
Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
-----Original Message-----
From: year-2000(at)mindspring.com <year-2000(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: some things i need to ask
>
>>
>>well.
>>
>> I plan on useing some aluminumsheet for the pod and fiberglass
for
>>the cowl.
>>See the aluminum is real light and thin . the only reson i want to do this
>is
>>because i dont like the idea of it being that open of a cockpit but if you
>>can send me a copie of the cage plans on-line please i would thank you
>alot .
>>
>>sincerly erik ha baxter p.s. sorry about all the messups in my last
letter
>
>
> <http://newgrounds.com/seals/index.html>
>"Yo, that seal was sneaking up on me, so I turns around and I BASHES it!! I
>bashes it real good.
>You'd figure that yer average mammal would tend to flee at this point, but
>this were the meanest baby of the meanest mother ever ( you don't think the
>Navy calls their elitest fighting forces SEALS for nuttin', do ya?), and he
>came back fer more I think he pulled a knife.
>
>So's I gave it to 'em. He was getting kinda messy, but as my sainted mother
>used ta tell me when I was gonna take ma nap, "Remember, seals
>always fight to the death. They never give up,dont let them animal wackos
>stop you!"
>
>It brought a sentimental tear to my eye.
>Have you ever considered clubbing ostriches, it's just as fun!
>
>Wait... we were talking about dem ultralights, sorry, it's cold up here.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Henry <chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu> |
| Subject: | 5/8 axel material |
Hi; I am in the process of putting on wheel skis on my Firestar I and plan
to make a new 14" by 5/8" axel so the wheel can be on the outside of the
axel fitting and the ski mount on the inside of the axel fitting.
Would 4140 be the correct metal type? does anyone know what metal is the
standard axel that kolb sent out? I remember the original axel was a bugger
to drill but it must be able to bend without breaking, right?
Thanks
Charles Henry
Hankinson ND
Firestar I, 260 Hrs., 447 Rotax, IVO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GOOCHMAC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Tail dragger to tricycle? |
Can anyone help me turm my taildragger into the full lotus tricycle amphibious
system--is this possible?---I must get back in the water and thier system has
gone from tail dragger to trigear---can you steer the nose wheel?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | year-2000(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: some things i need to ask |
>>>sincerly erik ha baxter p.s. sorry about all the messups in my last
letter.
-----------------------------
>SIR??? , I THINK I SPEAK FOR EVERYONE WHEN I SAY THIS...
>
>HUH???
>
>BOYS AND GIRLS THIS IS WHAT THEY HAVE BEEN TRYING TO TELL YOU..
>CRACK WILL MAKE YOU CRAZY!!!
>
>Just a friendly jab...
-----------------------------
>I'm sorry that was probable insensitive to erik "ha" baxter.
My ex-wife said I was insensitive, didn't talk to her, didn't listen to
her. . . something like that, I don't remember, I really wasn't paying
attention. Women, can't live with them. . . can't live with them, right Buford?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: some things i need to ask |
So what's that all about ?? Ignore him Baxter, he can't help it.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <year-2000(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: some things i need to ask
>
>
> >>>sincerly erik ha baxter p.s. sorry about all the messups in my last
> letter.
>
> -----------------------------
> >SIR??? , I THINK I SPEAK FOR EVERYONE WHEN I SAY THIS...
> >
> >HUH???
> >
> >BOYS AND GIRLS THIS IS WHAT THEY HAVE BEEN TRYING TO TELL YOU..
> >CRACK WILL MAKE YOU CRAZY!!!
> >
> >Just a friendly jab...
> -----------------------------
> >I'm sorry that was probable insensitive to erik "ha" baxter.
> My ex-wife said I was insensitive, didn't talk to her, didn't listen to
> her. . . something like that, I don't remember, I really wasn't paying
> attention. Women, can't live with them. . . can't live with them, right
Buford?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Hello Gang,
The list is mighty quite so I decided I would throw something at ya'll.
Has anybody on the list had any experience with band type brakes? I have
read somewhere that they hold better than drums. There is a internet site
http://www.airrahe-ultralights.com/legpage1.htm that says they still hold
the plane at 5800 rpm after one year of service. Looks like they could be
adapted to our fine planes without much problem. What do ya'll think?
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II 1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>
>Hello Gang,
> The list is mighty quite so I decided I would throw something at ya'll.
>Has anybody on the list had any experience with band type brakes? I have
>read somewhere that they hold better than drums. There is a internet site
>http://www.airrahe-ultralights.com/legpage1.htm that says they still hold
>the plane at 5800 rpm after one year of service. Looks like they could be
>adapted to our fine planes without much problem. What do ya'll think?
>
>Later,
>John Cooley
>Building FS II 1162
>
Looks good, good pictures, simple. It appears priced to where you could
almost afford to try it, and if it didn't work, you could afford to throw
it away. Those band type brakes are not a bad way to go. I already have
brakes, why don't you let us know how they work. : )
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
John,
It has not been my experience that bands hold better than drums. My
experience is that bands don't hold as well as expanding shoe brakes.
Another manufacturer I know, started using bands - but he used a long lever
to actuate them, so he has a lot more mechanical advantage. He went with
bands, as I recall, because he found the Azuza drums to be out of round and
was frustrated with the problems that that presented with expanding shoe
brakes. (Band brakes don't present the grabbing problems that expanding
shoes do.) I haven't tried bands with such a lever, but I would not be
surprised if it worked very well. The brakes that you are looking at
undoubtedly have the Azuza cast alum hand grip which will develop only a
fraction of the pull that a long lever will.
Also the 5800 rpm (what engine?)appears to be on a Challenger with (???)
dia prop. Probably 60" or less. The prop on your FireStar is very probably
66 or 68" dia and it will generate a lot more static thrust than a prop 60"
or smaller. So the brakes on the Challenger will not need to be as powerful
to hold 5800 rpm compared to your FS at 5800.
Hope this helps.
Dennis Souder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Cooley
Sent: Friday, November 26, 1999 3:40 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Brakes
Hello Gang,
The list is mighty quite so I decided I would throw something at ya'll.
Has anybody on the list had any experience with band type brakes? I have
read somewhere that they hold better than drums. There is a internet site
http://www.airrahe-ultralights.com/legpage1.htm that says they still hold
the plane at 5800 rpm after one year of service. Looks like they could be
adapted to our fine planes without much problem. What do ya'll think?
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II 1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Just wondering out there, but I just reread the article from Dennis about
performing loops until the Ultrastar wing folded in his tests.
I have 130 hours on my Firestar 2 and have only done wing overs, has anybody
out there done any loops and spins in their Kolbs?? I am not saying that I
will do any nor do I want to condone them to us out there, but I am just
curious. I did last weekend go into a 70mph dive under half power and a nice
pull up, it will go over in a loop with no problem. Curiosity has got me. I
have only a bit of aerobatic training in several GA airplanes and was hoping
to get some real hand info from the other kolbers. I am also as interested in
some spins, I do like them in GA airplanes.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: spins loops ??? |
>
>Just wondering out there, but I just reread the article from Dennis about
>performing loops until the Ultrastar wing folded in his tests.
>
>I have 130 hours on my Firestar 2 and have only done wing overs, has anybody
>out there done any loops and spins in their Kolbs?? I am not saying that I
>will do any nor do I want to condone them to us out there, but I am just
>curious.
Ask John Hawk, he used to do them in a Firestar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert L Doebler <robertdoebler(at)juno.com> |
Regarding band brakes. I had them on my Moni (motor glider).I had a long
actuating lever on it so it stopped just fine. However they were Azusa
drums, that I never could get perfectly round, so it did jerk slightly
when stopping. Also they rattle alot.
I installed Azusa drum brakes on my Firestar II, and had the same problem
as everyone else with "grabbing", also they would not hold on runup with
a Rotax 503.. So I took them off and installed Hagar disk brakes, and
couldn"t be happier. I guess you get what you pay for...
Hope this helps
Bob Doebler
robertdoebler(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: spins loops ??? |
Is the firestar considered by Kolb to be aerobatic? I asked the same question
some time back and the answer concerning spins was that they were normal--I
am still somewhat suspicious that the spin characteristics of an aircraft
with a center mounted pusher engine and a boom tail would behave entirely
normal in a spin. Aerobatics, I would not, while I am very impressed with the
design and structure of the Kolb, it is not up to aerobatic standards by a
long shot (opinion). My gander at the wing and lift strut attach points makes
me think that the aircraft is good for standard catagory (about 3.8g). You
could easily exceed this on a loop resulting in severe structural damage and
worse wing failure. The forward spar to cage attach point appears lacking and
the overall sizing of the pins at all locations is to small and further for
aerobatics I would replace all safety pin type fasteners with a bolt and nut
instead. Also I wonder about the integrity of the boom under unusual
circumstances. Additionally you should wear a chute and have a base of about
3000AGL before beginning aerobatic maneuvers and proper training. This is not
intended to run these airplanes down, they are wonderful for their intended
purpose which I am pretty sure is not aerobatics. You be careful now. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
JR,
Sure glad nobody told me this before .. I would have been even more scared!
Actually the items listed as being of questionable strength are among the
stonger links in the Kolb chain. Which goes to show that "ganders" do not
always serve us well. A particular design may appear to be bullet proof, but
one overlooked weak link would be your undoing. Rigorous analysis and
flight testing are the only means to such assurance. That aside, Kolb was
in comlete agreement with you regarding the suitability of Kolb Aircraft for
aerobatics: Not Recommended!
Dennis Souder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
JRWillJR(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 1999 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: spins loops ???
Is the firestar considered by Kolb to be aerobatic? I asked the same
question
some time back and the answer concerning spins was that they were normal--I
am still somewhat suspicious that the spin characteristics of an aircraft
with a center mounted pusher engine and a boom tail would behave entirely
normal in a spin. Aerobatics, I would not, while I am very impressed with
the
design and structure of the Kolb, it is not up to aerobatic standards by a
long shot (opinion). My gander at the wing and lift strut attach points
makes
me think that the aircraft is good for standard catagory (about 3.8g). You
could easily exceed this on a loop resulting in severe structural damage and
worse wing failure. The forward spar to cage attach point appears lacking
and
the overall sizing of the pins at all locations is to small and further for
aerobatics I would replace all safety pin type fasteners with a bolt and nut
instead. Also I wonder about the integrity of the boom under unusual
circumstances. Additionally you should wear a chute and have a base of about
3000AGL before beginning aerobatic maneuvers and proper training. This is
not
intended to run these airplanes down, they are wonderful for their intended
purpose which I am pretty sure is not aerobatics. You be careful now. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Sometimes it's just fun to throw something out there like my question of
aerobatics.
It never amazes me how much great knowledge is out there and on this list.
Just why we have this list, great reading.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | PAL 95 Aeromotor |
Hello,
I was just wondering what some of your thoughts are on the Pal 95
Aeromotor. It is mentioned on page 15 of the Dec. Ultralight Flying.
Their web address is
http://www.pegasusaviation.cc/
Thanks,
Monte Evans
Building Mark3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Steiner <bks(at)netcom.ca> |
| Subject: | Mark 111 prop diameter and gear ratios |
I am flying an early 90's mark 111 with a 582 rotax with C drive. The
C drive had just came out and the
582's had not been raised on the two inch rails yet so the maximum
diameter prop allowed was a 66 inch.
I wanted a quiet running prop so I ordered a 3 to 1 ratio gear box. I
do not have great takeoff performance
with skis in snow. When I have two people aboard it can sometimes be a
no go. What suggestions do you all have to improve my takeoff
performance? I am considering two things: 1. raising the engine and
installing a
72 in. prop. 2. changing the gear ratio to speed the prop up. I
currently have a 66 inch three blade Warp Drive.
Thanks for any help.
Kim Steiner
Saskatchewan, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
This brake thread got me going, so I decided to duplicate the test I did a
couple of years ago. I have the Matco disc brakes, and my prior test
involved a friend pushing me back and forth in my construction area, while I
jammed on the brakes. At that time, they were just about worthless, and I
was very upset with my $500.00 fancy brake set-up. My friend would push,
I'd hit the brakes, and the plane would keep on rolling. Now my plane is
living out in the driveway, and I haven't touched the wheels, other than to
jump up and down on a tire from time to time. ( Still no leaks )
Yesterday, I had a couple of neighbors pick up the tail, and run me down the
street. I hit the brakes, and it STOPPED ! ! ! Instantly. One old boy was
fairly P.O.ed, caused it almost cartwheeled him, and he scuffed his knee on
the pavement. We tried it a few more times, and the brakes seem great.
What's going on ?? Why would they work now, and not before ?? I know this
isn't 50 mph, but still...........! ! ! I was almost (??) looking
forward to jumping all over Matco for selling a useless product, but now I
guess I've got nothing to bitch about. What could change ?? I haven't bled
them, adjusted anything, tweaked them - - - nothing. If memory serves me,
( MY memory ?? ) there wasn't really a clear cut answer before. Some
really loved the brakes, and some hated them. Is there a later consensus
out there ?? Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Today, I finally got busy, and built a table ( 4x8 ) and got ready to start
covering. Just run out of excuses, I guess. Pulled out the Poly-Fiber
practise kit I bought in early '97 at the covering seminar, and the Poly-Tak
is like a stiff jelly. Or soft rubber. The can of MEK is 1/2 gone.
These are 1 pint cans. So, I went to the kit from R & R that came with the
rest of the plane in Nov. '96, It's not as bad, but instead of full cans
of Poly-Tak, they are about 2" low. ( 1 quart cans ) These are the screw
top cans. Haven't checked the rest of them yet - chicken, I guess. Any
way, my question is this: Poly Tak cans specify, "contains Acetone,
MEK....... How much of each ?? Should I refill the cans with 1, or
the other, or both. Seems like I've repeatedly heard that MEK will soften
up cured Poly-Anything, so seems like it should work here. Anybody ??
P.S. From the little I tried today on that nasty wooden frame, I doan
wanna ! ! ! Someone wanna make a lotta bucks covering a certain Mk III ??
Disgusted Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
What could change ?? I haven't bled
> them, adjusted anything, tweaked them - - - nothing. If memory serves me,
> ( MY memory ?? ) there wasn't really a clear cut answer before. Some
> really loved the brakes, and some hated them. Is there a later consensus
> out there ?? Big Lar.
Big Lar and Gang:
Before the brakes become effective, they must be run in, i.e., taxi up
and down the airstrip at moderate speed with brakes applied. The
brakes get hot and become more effective. Yours probably rusted the
disc or the rain or dew washed the oil off the disc.
I lost the left brake while on my XC to Panama City a couple weekends
ago. Could not figure it out. No leaks, no air in the system, but
that is the signal I was getting from them. The pedal went to nearly
the bottom. Come to find out with the help of my partner Mike
Highsmith, the pads had started sticking on their shafts. We put some
oil on the shafts, pried the pads back against the disc, and instant
full pedal. Went ahead and lubed the other side as well. Learn
something everyday. Been using MATCOs for 8+ years without any real
problems.
john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Someone wanna make a lotta bucks covering a certain Mk III ??
> Disgusted Lar.
Big Lar and Gang:
SURE!!!! How much "big bucks?"
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I have the standard Kolb offered drum brakes and they are weak and out of
round etc, but even after a lot of taxing and flying when the drums are warm
and less effective they are still enough to put the airplane on its nose. I
love the idea of strong brakes, but at least on the FS2, it's real easy to go
up on the nose. They will also hold on runup to test the mags at 4000rpm and
they will hold with more rpm than this, but my tail comes up.
My 2cents worth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I have always just added MEK to the jar of Poly Tak I am using and it makes
it like new. Like magic.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spins loops ??? |
Dennis, it sure is good to see you are still out there! I got to meet you
when I was taking lessons from Dan at Kolb during the summer of '96. We can
certainly all benefit from your wealth of experience. I hope all is going
well in youe new job!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PAL 95 Aeromotor |
>
>Hello,
> I was just wondering what some of your thoughts are on the Pal 95
>Aeromotor. It is mentioned on page 15 of the Dec. Ultralight Flying.
>Their web address is
>http://www.pegasusaviation.cc/
>
>Thanks,
>
>Monte Evans
>Building Mark3
Two thoughts: First, anybody claiming to get 65-70 RELIABLE HP out of a
924cc 1/2 VW type two cylinder four stroke is really talented, because
that means that if it had 4 cylinders, and about 1850cc, it would be making
120-130 RELIABLE HP. Anybody that has ever fooled around with VW's would
probably raise their eyebrows at that figure.
Second thought: the web page says they started on this project because
they had had 13 forced landings due to failures in two stroke engines. If
they couldn't get a simple two stroke to run right, why would you suppose
they could design, engineer, and produce a four stoke that would be better,
much less last for 1,500 hours without an overhaul?
The Skeptical, and possibly Cynical Old Poop, rp
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark 111 prop diameter and gear ratios |
>
>I am flying an early 90's mark 111 with a 582 rotax with C drive. The
>C drive had just came out and the
>582's had not been raised on the two inch rails yet so the maximum
>diameter prop allowed was a 66 inch.
>I wanted a quiet running prop so I ordered a 3 to 1 ratio gear box. I
>do not have great takeoff performance
>with skis in snow. When I have two people aboard it can sometimes be a
>no go. What suggestions do you all have to improve my takeoff
>performance? I am considering two things: 1. raising the engine and
>installing a
>72 in. prop. 2. changing the gear ratio to speed the prop up. I
>currently have a 66 inch three blade Warp Drive.
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>Kim Steiner
>Saskatchewan, Canada
Probably either one would help. I am using a 66" 2-blade IVO with a 2.58:1
B box, Rotax 532, and the MKIII comes off the ground at over 1,000 pounds
takeoff weight in about 250-300". Climb around 900' minute solo, about
500-600 FPM at gross. Top speed just over 90. Two years ago I was using a
three blade prop, and did not have the speed range I have now. I could have
good climb and slow, high RPM cruise, or good cruise and crummy take off
and climb out. The two blade gives a better all around performance, but it
is a bit louder. I am well satisfied with it's performance.
One other thing: the 582 has a better torque spread than the 532, but the
532 is a lot "happier" with the two blade. It just did not run as well with
the three blade. That may not be true on the 582. (?)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Yes, cjc, a lot of spectators seem to think so. It's all in the
attitude. bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>I worked through it, Lar.... like Crazy Louise in high school... like Viet
>Nam... like hepatitis... like marriage.... You will eventually find your
>way, too... Covering is just something a man need to work out for himself...
>no one else can really help... kinda like a sick indian going off by
>himself to die... Be of stout heart and good demeanor... you will
>triumph...
>Well put Buford, I can see you enjoy the "covering" process as much as I do.
However, it is better shared a bit at a time. You'll likely cause a panic
amongst
the great unwashed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Now, just wait a gosh-durned minute here ! ! ! I'm just plain old "Big
Lar," not "Great," or un-anything. Thought we were friends, Possum ??
Hmmmmm..............all 3 replies came from the Deep South. Do ya think
that MEK stuff settles downhill, like everthin' else ?? Maybe that
accounts for it. Hah ! ! ! Sniffin' Lar. Do
not Archive.
> >
>>I worked through it, Lar.... like Crazy Louise in high school... like Viet
> >Nam... like hepatitis... like marriage.... You will eventually find your
> >way, too... Covering is just something a man need to work out for
himself...
> >no one else can really help... kinda like a sick indian going off by
> >himself to die... Be of stout heart and good demeanor... you will
> >triumph...
>
> >Well put Buford, I can see you enjoy the "covering" process as much as I
do.
> However, it is better shared a bit at a time. You'll likely cause a panic
> amongst
> the great unwashed.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey Bil Lar,, fear not! The covering job is not nearly as daunting as it first
appears. I recommend you do the tail feathers first to get the hang of the
covering process. After you see how well they come out you will be heartened to
press on with the flaps, ailerons, wings and fuselage.
I was leery of doing the covering of my repaired MkIII sn 213 but it looks so
good I can't believe it. I haven't covered anything since I was 14 or 15 years
old. Think how lucky you are; you don't even have to rib stitch. Pop rivets
are a marvelous thing. Jim and Dondi Miller are one of the best assets this
list has to offer. Call them for advice or poly-anything. They also have the
large headed pop rivets that replace rib stitching.
Also remember that the stuff is repairable if something should punch a hole in
the fabric it is easy to fix with the poly-stuff. Also as Beauford has pointed
out MEK is a wondserful thing. It can make you happy and you can forget all
your troubles and your family and your name and you tend to run on and on and on
and wander through the desert on a horse with no name and who needs a Kolb to go
flying when you can do it with MEK anyway..........
Really, you will be amazed and very happy with the finished product. Look at
the video repeatedly and it will help you to figure things out. I kept
forgetting details (musta been the MEK) like wiping down with a tack rag before
spraying or once or twice I poured the paint into the gun without straining it
first. In spite of all that it came out surprisingly good. One of my A & P
buddies came over and said it looked great. He is an old hand at dope and
fabric so I feel really good even without my daily MEK fix.
For the final coat of poly-tone I added retarder to make it dry slowly. It has
more gloss than the unrepaired parts of the airship. It also looks better and
has more gloss by far than my friends Tri Pacer. The hardest thing for me was
to get in a position when spraying to be able to see how the spray was going
on. Getting the light just right was difficult. Actually some times I just
couldn't get the glare where I could watch the finish go on. In those cases I
would time myself and follow the same spray pattern that I used successfully
when putting on the poly-spray. I would spray vertically on the wings for about
5 panels with a mist coat, refill the gun and spray the rear 60% of the same 5
panels horizontally one panel at a time and spray the front 5. I'd usually have
to refill the gun before I finished the 5 panels in front.
I had one wing on a saw horse at normal height. My back would kill me after
spraying. I built another set of horses that were 24 inches high for the other
wing. It was much easier to see the spray go on and hold the gun with the wing
lower down. It was easier on my 62 year old back also.
At first I'd spray all of the rear and go to the front and finish up. I found
that the rear would have a lot of over spray on it and would look like the
aforementioned Tri Pacer. I wet sanded the Poly-Spray final coat and it came
out really smooth with minimal 400 grit wet sanding. Caleful! Don't sand over
the rivets or any hard stuff. It will look great when you finish even without
sanding in between the panels at the ribs. I never had to sand the poly-tone
finish coats.
If I had it to do all over again I'd put pipe wrap over the wing diagonal and
the lower tube going from the main spar to the wing tip brace prior to
covering. I kept sanding through the silver at those points. I read on the
Challenger list that is a trick they use.
I bought a total of three gallons of the stuff to clean the gun and brushes.
That was enough to do the wings, flaps ailerons and one elevator. Those were
the parts I had to repair. One wing I could have avoided covering except I had
to extend the wing tip. It had clipped wings when I bought it. My original
plan was to just cover the tip up to the outermost rib. Couldn't do it because
the builder had used something called System 3 to finish all the fabric. The
tech reps at poly-stuff said it is not repairable using poly-stuff. The end
result was I had to recover the whole wing. I used 4 gallons of poly-brush. 4
gallons of poly-spray and 4 gallons of poly-tone to cover those parts. 2 quarts
of poly-tack was more than enough to glue the fabric in place.
Good luck and enjoy the MEK. Bil
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> Today, I finally got busy, and built a table ( 4x8 ) and got ready to start
> covering. Just run out of excuses, I guess. Pulled out the Poly-Fiber
> practise kit I bought in early '97 at the covering seminar, and the Poly-Tak
> is like a stiff jelly. Or soft rubber. The can of MEK is 1/2 gone.
> These are 1 pint cans. So, I went to the kit from R & R that came with the
> rest of the plane in Nov. '96, It's not as bad, but instead of full cans
> of Poly-Tak, they are about 2" low. ( 1 quart cans ) These are the screw
> top cans. Haven't checked the rest of them yet - chicken, I guess. Any
> way, my question is this: Poly Tak cans specify, "contains Acetone,
> MEK....... How much of each ?? Should I refill the cans with 1, or
> the other, or both. Seems like I've repeatedly heard that MEK will soften
> up cured Poly-Anything, so seems like it should work here. Anybody ??
> P.S. From the little I tried today on that nasty wooden frame, I doan
> wanna ! ! ! Someone wanna make a lotta bucks covering a certain Mk III ??
> Disgusted Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Now, just wait a gosh-durned minute here ! ! ! I'm just plain old "Big
>Lar," not "Great," or un-anything. Thought we were friends, Possum ??
I use "Cliff/Carolyn's" method below, although I hate to recomend something
that is not "exactly" like the book says. I'm glad to see that we down here
in Possumville are not the only ones.
I do put a coat of "poly brush" on the metal tubes and let it dry before
applying the "poly tack", as was suggested by "my" covering class. Seems
that the poly tack drys brittle and the poly brush lets it adhere better to
the metal. I would also advise you to use "invisible gloves" or something
like it on your hands, or you will be peeling poly tack off of your skin
for the next few weeks (some pelple like that, it gives them something to
chew on besides their nails). Mine has stood the test of time and I heated
the fabric up to 325 degrees. P.S. this is enough to bend your inboard
steel rib unless you put in an extra brace-also enough to scallop all you
rudders, ailerons and elevator unless you used trailing edge material.
Careful with that iron.
Covering tip- you can drill the fabric rivet holes in the ribs BEFORE you
cover the wings, you can still burn through the fabric & the reinforcment
tape after you cover.
You can "feel" the holes. Saves you from punching holes through the fabric
& keeps all the metal shaving from getting between the fabric and the ribs.
Also much easier to center these hole if you use a drill guide & a #30
pilot-tip bit. Try it first if you like, saved me a lot of trouble.
>Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net
You might want to consider the alternative method of gluing down the fabric
than the lay down 6" of Polytac and stick method described in the plans.
Some call it the MEK method. Apply two coats of Polytac to the tubing you
plan to glue the fabric to and let dry enough to not be tacky and grab the
cloth. Arrange the cloth around the piece so that there are no wrinkles and
wet out the contact point with a liberal amout of MEK applied with a sash
brush. The re-liquified Polytac beneath the fabric soaks right into the
fabric. Give it a swipe with the heal of your hand to make sure it makes
good contact. Try to work in a well ventilated area. No mistakes and no
wrinkles to iron out.
You will also have finishing tape glued over these seams so it does hold.
Your Friend
Possum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Now, just wait a gosh-durned minute here ! ! ! I'm just plain old "Big
>Lar," not "Great," or un-anything. Thought we were friends, Possum ??
I use "Cliff/Carolyn's" method below, although I hate to recomend something
that is not "exactly" like the book says. I'm glad to see that we down here
in Possumville are not the only ones.
I do put a coat of "poly brush" on the metal tubes and let it dry before
applying the "poly tack", as was suggested by "my" covering class. Seems
that the poly tack drys brittle and the poly brush lets it adhere better to
the metal. I would also advise you to use "invisible gloves" or something
like it on your hands, or you will be peeling poly tack off of your skin
for the next few weeks (some pelple like that, it gives them something to
chew on besides their nails). Mine has stood the test of time and I heated
the fabric up to 325 degrees. P.S. this is enough to bend your inboard
steel rib unless you put in an extra brace-also enough to scallop all you
rudders, ailerons and elevator unless you used trailing edge material.
Careful with that iron.
Covering tip- you can drill the fabric rivet holes in the ribs BEFORE you
cover the wings, you can still burn through the fabric & the reinforcment
tape after you cover.
You can "feel" the holes. Saves you from punching holes through the fabric
& keeps all the metal shaving from getting between the fabric and the ribs.
Also much easier to center these hole if you use a drill guide & a #30
pilot-tip bit. Try it first if you like, saved me a lot of trouble.
>Cliff / Carolyn Stripling He - Kolb MK III builder (100%) - N582CC
striplic(at)flash.net
You might want to consider the alternative method of gluing down the fabric
than the lay down 6" of Polytac and stick method described in the plans.
Some call it the MEK method. Apply two coats of Polytac to the tubing you
plan to glue the fabric to and let dry enough to not be tacky and grab the
cloth. Arrange the cloth around the piece so that there are no wrinkles and
wet out the contact point with a liberal amout of MEK applied with a sash
brush. The re-liquified Polytac beneath the fabric soaks right into the
fabric. Give it a swipe with the heal of your hand to make sure it makes
good contact. Try to work in a well ventilated area. No mistakes and no
wrinkles to iron out.
You will also have finishing tape glued over these seams so it does hold.
Your Friend
Possum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
>I already have brakes, why don't you let us know how they work. : )
> also the 5800 rpm (what engine?)appears to be on a Challenger with (???)
dia prop. Probably 60" or less. The prop on your FireStar is very probably
66 or 68" dia and it will generate a lot more static thrust than a prop 60"
or smaller. So the brakes on the Challenger will not need to be as powerful
to hold 5800 rpm compared to your FS at 5800.<
>I have the standard Kolb offered drum brakes and they are weak and out of
round etc, but even after a lot of taxing and flying when the drums are warm
and less effective <
Hello Gang:
Thanks for the responses on the band brakes Ya'll made some good
observations about this type of brakes that I hadn't thought of (ain't this
list great). I too already have the factory brakes that came with the kit
that I bought second hand so I will probably use them. I may try the bands
on my next project which will probably be a MK III. As to the weights for
balance, I have the factory steel wheels that came with the FS II kits in
1994. While trying to fit the brakes and trying to get everything lined up
and not rubbing in the drum I noticed that the wheels are very out of
balance while spinning them on the axle's. I experimented with regular wheel
weights and it took about three ounces to balance. Will probably use
wheel weights in the final assembly to balance. The MK II that I had
vibrated pretty bad. I imagine that it could be pretty scary for a first
time rider when the pilot doesn't stop the wheels spinning as soon as they
clear the ground and the whole plane starts shuddering. Good to see Dennis
Souder is still watching the list. Hope you continue to contribute. Your
imput is greatly appreciated.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II 1162
PS ---- I tried to send this yesterday and for some reason I just sent my
address, sorry!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exide Orbital Recombinant Battery ? |
>Exide is selling a "recombinant" battery. See www.exideworld.com. How does
>it compare to the recombinant aircraft batteries sold by Concorde and B&C ?
Took a look at this site and it appears that the product
is a descendant of the jelly-roll cells originally
developed and patented over 20 years ago. The cells
were (and still are) marketed under Gate's Energy Products
Cyclon brand for about the past 15 years or more.
When the Gate's patents expired a number of folk
took interest in the technology. When Gates sold
off the battery division, a company in Denver got the
tooling for the big jelly-roll cells while another
company (Hawker I think) took over the litte version.
We use the 2 a.h. cells to this day in our MQM
series targets.
We should expect to see more of the "silo" batteries
to pop up. Exide is a very old and respected name in
rechargable batteries. The technology used in the Orbital
battery is quite mature. These are reasons to believe
their offering is technically near if not at the
top of the heap in the growing field of portable
energy storage devices.
I did get the following from their website:
THE ORBITAL BATTERY IS SENSITIVE TO HIGH VOLTAGE
CHARGING (ABOVE 14.4 VOLTS).THE RECOMMENDATION IS
TO USE A 6 TO 12 AMP, 12 VOLT AUTOMATIC CHARGER SET
AT THE REGULAR SETTING. IF YOU USE A NON- AUTOMATIC
CHARGER, YOU NEED TO MONITOR THE VOLTAGE SO IT
DOES NOT EXCEED 14.4 VOLTS AND/OR 12 AMPS ANYTIME
DURING RECHARGE. THIS BATTERY ONLY NEEDS
RECHARGING IF THE OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE (O.C.V.) IS
BELOW 12.5 VOLTS.
Unlke the Gates-now-Hawker products, their recommendations
are more conservative with respect to care and feeding
of the battery. That 14.4V/12A limit is, I believe,
NOT a red-line where exceeding the values means instant
or even accelerated demise of the battery. In automotive
applications where you are encouraged to flog-it-til-
it-dies, the 14.4/12 limits will optomize service life.
This is NOT an inexpensive battery. Further, it's probably
only offered in automotive sizes (24 a.h. or there-abouts)
so it's not a lightweight. Nor is it going to be in-expensive.
In the grand picture of our need for reliable cranking,
and RESERVE energy storage, I would encourage builders
to think lighter, less expensive and REPLACE based on
capacity than to sink a lot of bux into an expensive,
classy car battery and suffer the temptation to flog-
it-til-it-dies.
I found this tid bit on their website too . . .
Because Exide Select orbital can withstand abuses that kill
conventional batteries, it's a perfect choice for many vehicles,
including classic cars, RVs, boats (starting only), taxis, seasonal
and farm equipment.
. . . an interesting contrast to the charging instructions
cited above. The #1 "abuse" suffered by airplane batteries
is long periods of inattention. The very low self-discharge
rates of EVERYBODY's RG battery makes them less susceptable
to loss in storage. But if one interprets the charging
recommendations paragraph as oh-my-gosh-gospel then I'll
suggest the Exide Orbital is no more rugged than most
other RG products on the market.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gel Cell Battery |
>Bob:
>
>Where can I get one of the 17-amp gel cells you mentioned?
>
>Dick Carden
>
Ain't no such thing as a gel cell any more. The recombinant
gas batteries are sold by EVERYBODY. There are a half
dozen consumer battery stores in Wichita that handle
the 17 a.h. class battery. Look for brands like Panasonic,
Yuasa, Powersonic, etc. If the battery is "sealed lead
acid", has dimensions on the order of 3" x 6.5" x 6.5"
and has terminals that will accept 4AWG wire attached with
1/4" bolts, then it's what you want. They shouldn't cost
you more than $65.
Don't buy your flight battery until you're ready to fly
the airplane. Jury-rig a car or garden tractor battery
into your system for ground testing or use a ground
power supply like . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/tools/tools.html#gpu14-23
Go buy your flight battery the day before you take the
airplane to the airport.
Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 15:31:08 -0500 |
Todd,
It is a 68" three blade "B" model, which is the new planform. Fairly wide
chord. The performance is quite good. Changing pitch is not quite as easy as
advertised. I must have done it ten times to get revs and temps where I
wanted them. Workmanship is good.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [Fwd: STOLEN ENGINE ALERT!] |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
Hey Ralph...
Got this from Jerry ...thought you might forward it to your Kolb list.
Don
Subject: STOLEN ENGINE ALERT!
Sometime during the night of November 24, 1999 a 912 ULS engine (serial
number 4425105) was stolen from an aircraft at Airflow Ultralights in
Langley, British Columbia, Canada. Several other engine components
including a stainless steel exhaust system were stolen.
Anyone coming across this engine is asked to contact their local
authorities.
--------- End forwarded message ----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
Larry Bourne wrote:
> Any way, my question is this: Poly Tak cans specify, "contains Acetone,
> MEK....... How much of each ?? Should I refill the cans with 1, or
> the other, or both. Seems like I've repeatedly heard that MEK will soften
> up cured Poly-Anything, so seems like it should work here. Anybody ??
> P.S. From the little I tried today on that nasty wooden frame, I doan
> wanna ! ! ! Someone wanna make a lotta bucks covering a certain Mk III ??
> Disgusted Lar.
See no problem with using MEK to thin PolyTak. HOWEVER. Strongly
recommend that MEK NOT be used to thin PolyBrush, PolySpray, or
PolyTone. Use only PolyFiber reducers such as 65-75 or 8500. These
contain MEK, but also contain other solvents blended to control drying
rate. This is VERY important. If you are using an HVLP sprayer, use
8500 reducer even when at lower temperatures. If the temp is over 80 F
or so, add a bit of 8600 reducer/retarder. The heated air of the
turbine tends to dry the coating too fast.
My PolyFiber dealer devised a nifty way to apply PolyTak. Use a
plastic container with a nozzel type of spout. This would be similar to
what one often sees in restaurants to dispense ketchup. The one I use
is a Revlon bottle. The hole in the nozzel is small enough that there
is practically no loss of solvent when working with it, in contrast to
what happens when one uses a small jar and a brush. In addition, the
brush quickly gets gunked up and tends to leave dried lumps of PolyTak
on the surface. With the nozzle type holder one can dispense it
directly on the surface and then spread it out. When putting it on a
vertical surface (leading edge of wing, etc), place the finger against
the surface with the nozzle against the finger. Move both finger and
nozzle along the surface while squeezing out a bead of PolyTak. The
finger acts as a "dam" and keeps PT from running down. Make a bead
about 2 ft long, then spread the bead out evenly with the finger and lay
the fabric down and press in place. Proceed to the next two feet, etc.
Kind of hard to explain in words, but this method works MUCH better than
applying it with a brush.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Well, I seem to have unleashed a monster ! ! ! My mechanic buddy from the
car dealership came over last Saturday, and wound up spending all afternoon.
He really got into it. Turns out he's a fanatical drag racer and hot
rodder, and even raced VW's some time ago, and, of course, Vamoose' engine
is a 2110 cc VW. He seemed interested. Hah ! ! ! The guy went nuts. He
called a while ago, and it sounds like he's got the whole service department
over there wound up. He's got a box full of components to work our way
through, including ECU's, throttle bodys, a complete wiring harness and
sensors from a low milage wreck, lots of paperwork, and LOTS of advice.
They also picked some holes in the SWAG system, which is known to work, and
which I had planned on using. Say they can do it better. Service manager
and a couple of others want to come over and see as well. This is getting
to be fun. When the dust settles I'll have part numbers, etc. for those
who've expressed interest in fuel injection for their VW powered Kolbs. I
also talked to a company that builds VW engines for aircraft, and they came
up with a fail safe idea for what to do if the fuel injection quits.
Basically a BIG injector on the throttle body, to be powered thru a toggle
switch from the battery. Properly sized it should give full power in an
emergency. We are definitely going to work on it. They also have built 2
versions of an alternator that's built right into the flywheel, and also a
wasted spark ignition trigger built into same. He's digging thru the parts
bin now, and I'm going up there Friday, ( my Saturday ) to pick up the
pieces. Should be interesting, and of course, I'll share it and keep you
all informed. Sat. morning, I'll fly with an instructor for 2 hrs. to check
out in the Piper Cherokee 140, which I'll then have the use of, ( not free,
of course, but VERY reasonable ), then Sat. afternoon, up to Big Bear
( L35 ) for lunch with the mechanic friend and his brother - in the 180 hp.
172 Super Skyhawk. Sunday, the mechanics are coming over, and that should
be fun. You can imagine how much covering is going to get done. Aw shucks,
but dammit Lar, it's gotta be done. You KNOW that. Well, maybe next
weekend ?? This is turning into quite an education, as well as being
stimulating and a lot of fun. Guess this proves I'm a mechanic, and not a
painter. Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | 1999 List of Contributors #1 and a Special Thank You Message!! |
Dear Listers,
I would like to personally thank each and everyone that has contributed
this year to 1999 List Fund Raiser! As you can see from the list of
names below, there were many, many generous people from the Lists this
time around and I want everyone to know just how much your support has
meant to me. The list of members below includes those that have
contributed during this year's List Fund Raiser as well as those that
have contributed throughout the year and also those that made a donation
to my Legal Defense Fund earlier in the year that was sponsored my our
own Bob Nuckolls of Aero Electric.
I want everyone to know just how much it means to me to receive the type
of financial support for these Lists that I have this year. As the Lists
have grown so much over the last few years, so have the equipment costs
as well as the monthly costs such as the Internet connectivity. Your
generosity during the Fund Raiser and throughout the year, truly makes
the continued operation, and more importantly, the continued upgrade and
improvement of these aviation-related services directly possible. That
is the bottom line. Please accept my most sincere appreciation of the
amazing and, at times, overwhelming generosity of so many of you
wonderful people! Thank you!!
For those of you that didn't quite get your contribution in on time for
this first List of Contributors - be it by check or by credit card - I
will be posting a followup List of Contributors #2 for 1999 in a few
weeks to make sure that I properly acknowledge each and everyone of the
generous List members. One last time, the addresses to make a contribution
are:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or
Matt Dralle
c/o Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Finally, thank you all so much for your support this year both in terms
of the financial contribution but also in the form of the letters and
moral support during what can only be categorized as a very stressful and
unsettling time. And I think you know what I'm referring to... Your
support and encouragement meant more to me than you'll ever know. I felt
as if I had 2500 friends all behind me, and that's a *powerful* force!
Well done one and all! Thank you!
Best regards for the upcoming year.
Your Email List Administrator,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 Builder #1763
=================== 1999 List of Contributors #1 ====================
Abell, John
Acker, Rob
Adams, Bob
Adamson, Larry
Ahamer, Karl
Albachten, Rudy III
Alcazar, Jesus
Allen, Brent
Allison, Steven
Ammeter, John
Amundsen, Blair
Anderson, Edward
Armstrong, Robert
Arnold, James
Aronson, David
Ashford, James
Ashton, Kent
Atkinson, Harold
Baggett, Robert
Baker, Gary
Baker, Ray
Baldwin, James
Barlow, Melvin
Barnes, Thomas
Barnes, Tom
Barnhart, Dave
Barrenechea, Godo
Battles, Brenton
BB Diversified Services, LTD
Bechtel, Amos
Bell, Bruce
Belted Air Power LTD.
Benhan, Dallas
Bennett, Peter
Besing, Paul
Bieber, Mike
Bilodeau, Paul
Bird, Carroll
Blanton, Stan
Bleier, Roger
Blomgren, Jack
Blum, Ronald
Boadright, Kyle
Boardman, Don III
Boatright, Kyle
Boatright, Robert
Bodie, Pete
Bonesteel, Wayne
Booze, Gregory
Borne, Charles
Bourgeois, Rion
Bourne, Larry
Bovan Pe, Vaso
Bowen, Larry
Bowen, Miles
Bower, Bob
Bowhay, Eustace
Bowman, Brian R
Boyd, Rodney
Branscomb, Warren
Bray, Garrett
Brian Lloyd
Brick, John
Bridgham, David
Brogley, Mike
Brooks, Chris
Brooks, John
Brott, Marvin
Brown, Kent
Brown, Scott
Buckwalter, David - Avionics Systems
Burlingame, Ralph
Burnham, Dave
Calhoun, Ronald
Calvert, Jerry
Cantrell, Ken
Capen, Ralph
Cardinal, Gregory
Carey, Christopher
Carr, David
Carter, Jerry
Carter, Ron
Casey, Jeremy
Chapple, Glen
Chesnut, Bruce
Chesnut, William
Christensen, Peter
Christie, William
Churchill, Frank
Ciolino, John
Clabots, Gerald
Clark, Howard
Clark, James
Clary, Buck
Clay, Dennis
Cloughley, Bill
Cole, Ed
Colontonio, Moe
Colucci, Anthoney
Conaway, James
Cook, David Sr.
Cooley, John
Copeland, Forrest
Corder, Michael
Corriveau, Grant
Cotter, Timothy
Cox, Carson
Croby, Harry
Crosley, Richard
Cullen, Chuck
Czinkota, Garnet
Dall, Richard
Daudt, Larry
Davidson, Jeff
Davis, Christopher
Davis, Jared
Davis, Steve - The Panel Pilot
Davis, William
Day, Robert
Deffner, David
Del Peso, Jose
Derrik, Chuck
Desmond, Richard
Devine, Steven
Devlin, John
Dewees, Ron
Dial, J.R.
Dominey, Clifford
Dorsey, Bob
Downing, Jeff
Dubroc, Tommy
Dudley, Richard
Duffy, Russell
Duncan, John
Dunlap, E.T.
Dziewiontkoski, Bob
Eagleston, Ron
Eagleston, Ronald
Eastburn, James
Elder, William
Elhai, Irv
Emrath, Marty
Ensing, Dale
Ervin, Thomas
Erwin, Chip - Czech Aircraft Works
Evans, Monte
Exstrom, Daniel
Faile, David
Farrar, Jeffrey
Farris, Paul
Fetzer, George
Fiedler, Mike
Filucci, Michael - Red Dragon Aviaion
Finch, K
Flaherty, Edward
Floyd, Joseph
Ford, David
Forrest, Gerald
Forsting, Robert
Fortner, Earl
Four Star Products
Frank, Dan
Franz, Carl
Frazier, Vince
Frederick, Mark
French, Edwin
Friedman, Frank
Froehlich, Carl
Fromm, John
Fry, John
Funk, Edwin Jr.
Funnell, Augustus
George, William
Gilbert, Mark
Giusti, Roberto
Glaser, Arthur
Glass, Roy
Glover, Ken
Gold, Andy - Builder's Book Store
Goldberg, Mark
Good, Chris
Gooding, Lawrence
Goolsby, Jim
Gott, Shelby
Goudreault, Jacques
Graham, James Jr.
Grant, Jordan
Griffin, Bill
Griffin, Randy
Groom, Larry
Guillosso, Alain
Hale, Michael
Hales, Sherman
Hall, Bob
Hall, Thomas
Hamer, Steven
Hamilton, Thom
Hamilton, William
Hand, Chris
Hansen, Ronald
Hargis, Merle
Harmon, John
Harper, Malcom
Harrill, Roy
Harris, John
Hart, Daniel
Harvey, Doug
Hassall, J.C.
Hastedt, Margaret
Hatch, Fletcher III
Hatcher, Clive
Hatfield, Cecil
Hays, Wes
Henderson, George
Henderson, Randall
Heritch, Ian
Herndon, Richard
Herren, Bill
Hevern, Jerry
Hiatt, Mark
Hiers, Craig
Hinch, Christopher
Hine, Joe
Hinkley, Curtis
Hinrichsen, James
Hodge, Jack
Hodgson, Bob
Hodson, Frank
Hoffman, Carl
Holcombe, Richard
Horton, Kevin
Hoshowski, Ken
Hrycauk, Dave
Hughes, Robert
Hulen, Fred
Hundley, Richard
Hurd, James
Hurlbut, Steve
Hutcheson, Ken
Ihlenburg, Fred
Ingram, Jim
Irace, Bill
Irwin, Eric
Isler, Jerry
Ivers, James
James, Larry
Janes, Bob
Janicki, Steven
Japundza, Bob
Jeens, Ken
Johannsson, Johann
Johnson, Jackie
Johnson, Stephen
Jones, Bryan
Jones, Rob
Jones, Russ
Jonker, Bill
Jordan, Thomas
Jory, Rick
Kampthorne, Hal
Kayner, Dennis
Keithley, Rick
King, Da Ve
Kirby, Dennis
Kirby, Graham
Kirtland, Charles
Kitz, John
Knezacek, Dan
Knievel, Gerald
Knoll, Bruce
Kosta, Michael
Kowalski, Ed
Krueger, Dan
Krueger, Scott
Kuss, Charlie
Laczko, Frank Sr.
Lamb, Richard
Lane, Kevin
Lassen, Finn
Laurence, Peter
Laverty, Mike
Lawson, John
Leaf, Dave
Lee, John
Lee, Ric
LeGare, Garry
Leggette, Len
Leonard, William
Lerohl, Gaylen
Lervold, Randy
Lewis, Terry
Lewis, Tim
Ligon, Howard
Lind, Laird
Linebaugh, Jeffrey
Loeber, Wayne
Ludeman, Bruce
Lutes, Rick
Mac Donald, Lawrence
MacKay, Alex
Malczynski, Francis
Mandell, Tom
Marino, Anthony
Marion, Chris
Markert, Michael
Marshall, Robert
Martin, Tom
Maxson, Phil
Mazatuad, Mme Hyun Sook
McElhoe, Bruce
McFarlane, Lloyd
McGee, Michael
McHarry, Joe
McHenry, Tedd
McKibben, Gerald
McNamara, Don
Melder, Frank
Melia, Tom
Metzger, Stephen
Meyers, John
Miller, Jim & Dondi - Aircraft Technical Support
Mitchell, Duane
Moen, Craig
Mojzisik, Allan
Molzen, Jason
Mondy, Malia
Moore, Thomas
Moore, Warren
Morelli, Bill
Morelli, William
Morris, Daniel III
Morrison, Mark
Morrow, Dan
Moulin, Roger
Munn, Mike
Murphy, Ray Jr.
Neal, Danny
Nellis, Michael
Nelson, James
Nelson, Jim
Newell, Alan
Nguyen, Thomas
Nice, James
Nicely, Vincent
Norris, Rob
Nowakowski, Donald
Noyer, Robert
Nuckolls, Robert
Olendorf, Scott
Olson, Larry
Olson, Tom
Orear, Jeffrey
Owens, Laird
Palinkas, Gary
Pardue, Larry
Paulson, Craig
Peck, Bill & Kathy
Peer, Michael - Jem Aviation
Peryk, Dennis
Peternel, Stanley
Petersen, Eric
Petersen, Paul
Peterson, Alex
Pflanzer, Randy
Phillips, Mark
Pickrell, Jim
Pike, Richard
Pinneo, George
Pittenger, Dick
Plathey, Claude
Point, Jeff
Polstra, Philip
Porter, Richard
Porter, Robert
Potter, Mark
Pretzsch, Robert
Ragsdale, Bill
Randolph, George
Ransom, Ben
Rathbun, Richard
Reeck, Jay
Reed, Derek
Reed, Frank
Reisdorfer, Mark
Reynolds, Richard
Richardson, Ray - Powersport Aviation Inc.
Riedlinger, Paul
Riley, Stuart
Roach, Brian
Rodgers, Brian
Rosales, Paul
Rowbotham, Charles
Rowles, Les
Rozendaal, Doug
Rutherford, Ted
Sa, Carlos
Sager, Jim
Sailer, Martin
SanClemente, Andrew
Sapp, Doug
Sargent, Tom
Sax, Samuel
Schemmel, Grant
Schippers, John
Schmitt, Clayton
Schneeflock, Robert
Schrimmer, Mark
Schwarz, Guillermo
Selby, Jim - JKL Aviation Sales
Seward, Douglas
Shackleford, Howard
Shafer, Jim
Shank, Bill
Sheets, Douglas
Shenk, Doug
Shepherd, Dallas
Shettel, Maurice
Shipley, Walter
Sigmon, Harvey
Silverstein, Chuck
Sipp, Dick
Slaughter, Mike
Small, Thomas
Smith, Clayton
Smith, Edmund
Smith, Philip
Smith, Shelby
Smithey, Lloyd
Snyder, David
Solecki, John
Sparks, Timothy
Stafford, David
Staub, Skip
Steer, Bill
Stobbe, Bruce
Stoffers, Larry
Stone, James
Strandjord, Eric
Swaney, Mark
Tauch, Eric
Tauchen, Bryan
Taylor, Tod
Team Rocket
Thayer, George
Therrien, Michel
Thistelthwaite, Geoffrey
Thoman, Daniel
Thomas, Lee
Thomas, Tim
Thompson, Michael
Todd, John
Tompkins, Jeff
Tower, John
True, George
Tucker, Harold
Tuton, Beauford
Tyrrel, Charles
Upshur, Bill
Uribe, Guillermo
Uribe, Gullermo
Utterback, Thomas
Van Der Sanden, Gert
Vandervort, Ronald
VanGrunsven, Stanley
Varnes, William
Volum, Peter
Von Ruden, Dennis
VonLindern, Paul
Vosberg, Roy
Waligroski, Gregg
Walker, Tommy
Walrath, Howard
Ward, Ed
Warren, John
Washburn, Oliver
Watson, Dennis
Watson, Terrence
Watson, William
Webb, Randol
Weber, Ed
Weber, Edward
Weller, Michael
Wendel, Jim
Wentzell, David
Werner, Russ
Werner, Russell
Westridge, David
Whelan, Thomas
Whiler, Douglas
Whitehead, Arthur
Wiesel, Dan
Wigney, John
Williams, Jimmy
Williams, Keith
Williams, Lawrence
Willig, Louis
Wills, Mike
Wilson, Billy
Wittman, James
Wood, Denton
Wood, John
Wood, Mark
Worstell, Glen
Worthington, Victor
Wotring, Dale
Wymer, Gerald
Young, Charles
Young, Rollin
Youngblood, Barry
Zeidman, Richard
Zigaitis, Kestutis
Zinkham, Ralph
Zwart, Frank
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Links to Pictures |
Hey Gang, Here is a few photos that our wingman Jim (Firestar II)took
recently of our local flying area. It is by no means nearly all of what we
get to see and as the days and the seasons change so does the bays and the
landscape. You might want to check out our web site while your at it. Click
on Main Page at the photo site.
Just thought you might want to know we do this year round.
Firehawk
>From: "J.R. Holbrook" <jrholbrook(at)hotmail.com>
>To: firehawk54(at)hotmail.com
>Subject: Links to Pictures
>Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 20:37:13 CST
>
>Try these:
>http://www.homestead.com/southernflyers/Photo20.html
>http://www.homestead.com/southernflyers/Photo21.html
>http://www.homestead.com/southernflyers/Photo22.html
>http://www.homestead.com/southernflyers/Photo24.html
>http://www.homestead.com/southernflyers/Photo25.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
>One thing though - the rubber gloves (surgical type) are a bit of a pain in
>the a_ _ , to say the least. I bought a jug of barrier cream, but I'm not
>sure how much to trust it. Does it really give the same protection as the
>gloves ?? How much do you apply ?? Really glop it on ?? How do you know
>when you need to apply more ?? I found, when building boats, that if you
>get acetone on your hands, you can quickly taste it. That means absorption
>and circulation of the stuff is very fast - not good. Not good at all. I
>understand that MEK is even worse. So, how good is the cream ??
I am not sure if it will keep MEK out of your system or not, but I used
barrier cream when covering the J-6, and also the MKIII. I used the
"Invisible Gloves" brand, dig out and smear on enough to get both hands
very moist with it, and then wave your hands around, or hold them in front
of the fan until it completely dries. You can tell if you got enough on by
how easy it is to peel the dope, Stits, Randolph, etc. off after you get
done. If it peels off easy after it dries, you got enough on. If it is hard
to peel the dried gunk off, then you needed to have used more. I thought it
worked pretty good. Not perfect, but pretty good.
As far as when to apply more, the stuff is water soluable. If your hands
start to sweat, or you get them wet, it messes it up, you will need to
start over.
I never noticed being able to taste acetone, but if you can, why not load
up on the barrier cream, and then put some acetone on your hand and see if
you can taste it? Would that be a reasonable test?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
| Subject: | Invisible gloves |
Hi Big Lar!
When using the invisible glove cream, put enough on to get your hands &
wrists slightly white....
Let it dry for sure, if you have too much on, just shake hands with someone!
When we are doing anything with straight MEK, we use the barrier cream and
latex gloves together, in case the gloves come apart.
We send a page with each container that describes the stuff, if you or
anyone else needs a copy, just e-mail us.
Thanx,
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
If you were one of the 5 people in the November LRI group buy, I just sent
out a confirming e-mail directly to you.
So if you ordered an LRI in this current deal and do not recieve this
confirming e-mail by this evening please contact me off list. Thanks, AL
prober(at)iwaynet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: LRI Group Buy |
Al Mojzisik wrote:
>
>
> If you were one of the 5 people in the November LRI group buy, I just sent
> out a confirming e-mail directly to you.
>
> So if you ordered an LRI in this current deal and do not recieve this
> confirming e-mail by this evening please contact me off list. Thanks, AL
Hate to show up my ignorance, but what is an "LRI"?
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Contribution Auction |
Dear Listers,
Steven DiNieri has generously offered to donate a CoolStart RS 700-II to
support the Lists this year. As he has discribed below, this unit
retails for $299. I have put a brochure for the product up on the web
server and you can have a look at it here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution/rsflyer.jpg
"lm4(at)juno.com" has already opened the bidding at $50 for this handy
device. If you would like bid on this unit, please email your bid to
the following email address:
bids(at)matronics.com
I will give it about a week for the bids to all come in and I will
inform the winning bidder on or about 12/9.
Thanks to Steven DiNieri for offering this unit!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
===========================================================================
--> RV-List message posted by: lm4(at)juno.com
I'll start the bidding at $50.00.
lm4(at)juno.com
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri"
>
> I know it's getting late in the official fund raiser and I was
>thinking of a creative way to contribute.
>...christmas gift for the misses. It normally retails for 299.00. I will
>include (to the winning bidder) wiring color codes for easy install
>in yourspecific vehicle and help on the phone if need be.
>Steve DiNieri
>Capsteve(at)wzrd.com
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Re: Contribution Auction" (Dec 2, 8:42pm)
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Bids for Equipment Donated by Archie... |
Dear Listers,
Archie (archie97(at)earthlink.net) has generously donated a number of
interesting items to the Support the List cause this year. Each of
them are described below. If you have additional questions, please
email Archie directly at:
archie97(at)earthlink.net
If there is an item that you wish to bid on, please send your BID along
with the DESCRIPTION OF THE ITEM you are bidding on to the following
email address:
bids(at)matronics.com
I will give it about a week for the bids to all come in and then I will
inform the winning bidder(s) on or about 12/9.
Here is the description of the items as provided by Archie:
======================================================================
- Upon receipt of donation amount, items will be shipped.
- No reasonable offer refused!
- Unreasonable ones considered!
NEW:
* Heated Pitot Tube, 24v. "L" shaped.
* Aero Instruments #5814-2
* Flap Motor w/ adjustable stops. 24v.
* Comm.Aircraft Prods. #D145-00-35-7
USED:
* Narco Transponder AT5-A
* Astronautics amplifier servo 53-005-214 mod#P1SA
* Narco altitude reporter. to 25k' Model# AR500
* King KS-505 power supply modulator
* RCA AVQ55 Weather radar antenna MI 591000
======================================================================
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Powerfin Props question |
Question about PowerFin props.
Heard rumor that they will not sell them for Firestars. Any one know
anything about this?
Bill Beams
FSKXP, 503, Powerfin
Wilmore, Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Since these things always happen on Friday afternoon on the West Coast,
it's too late to call anybody anywhere ) here's yet another question for
the pros on the List. The exhaust system for my engine ( VW ) came
yesterday, so this afternoon I trial mounted it. Beautiful ! ! ! Pipes
curve up to a muffler section with replaceable fiberglass inserts, light,
simple, shiny chrome, reasonable price, etc, and they point straight back
parallel to the thrust line. Really looks GOOD ! ! ! This is a dual
exhaust system, and almost ( ?? ) looks great on my engine. The stacks go
back too far to work on a direct drive engine - they'd stick a foot past the
prop - and there's the question on mine. The redrive is pretty long, and
the prop will clear the ends of the stacks. Since the cylinders in the
right bank are offset rearward from the left bank, the end of the left
exhaust stack clears the prop by about 4 1/2 inches. I would think that
would be sufficient. However, the right stack only clears the prop by about
2". Ends of the stacks are about 16" from the center of the propeller hub,
almost at the middle of the blades. Is that enough clearance ?? Each pipe
has a bell mouth on it that extends about 4 1/2" past the end of the
fiberglass liner, and if necessary, that could be trimmed off. Kinda hate
to, cause they look so sexy, but if necessary.....................! ! ! If
I trim only the right side, they'd both end at the same distance from the
prop, and might look more balanced, but would that change the flow
characteristics ?? Can't see how it would, but ya never know.
Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:Powerfin Props question |
<< Question about PowerFin props.
Heard rumor that they will not sell them for Firestars. Any one know
anything about this? >>
I called the Powerfin folks a few weeks ago about a powerfin prop for my
Firestar and the guy said they were in the process of obtaining a new mold
for blades that were specifically designed for low-drag, pusher-type ULs like
the Firestar. He gave a a several minute answer on the current designed
Powerfins and their application and would not recommend me purchasing one of
the current Powerfin prop models. He said the new props would be ready
sometime after the first of the year. Personally, I thought this was an
honest answer to my needs. I've never encountered a salesman that would tell
me "not yet, but soon". Typically, a sale would be lost. However, my need is
such that I can wait.
Hope this helps.
Ulflyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Powerfin Props question |
Yes, I received a e-mail form Stuart Gort of Power Fin. He should have the
first prototype done this months and production soon. It's a 3 blade 64"
job designed for the Kolb Firestar, 503, 2.58. He says it's very stiff and
light and requires no spacer for clearance. Sounds good. Skeeter
-----Original Message-----
From: BILLBEAM(at)aol.com <BILLBEAM(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 5:26 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re:Powerfin Props question
>
>
>Question about PowerFin props.
>
>Heard rumor that they will not sell them for Firestars. Any one know
>anything about this?
>
>Bill Beams
>FSKXP, 503, Powerfin
>Wilmore, Ky.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Powerfin Props question |
Thanks for all the feedback about the Powerfin/Firestar question. I will rest
easier now.
Bill Beams
KXP, 503, Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Powerfin Props question |
Regarding Powerfin props ...I had bought one of their
new mold props last Feb and had a very brief bit of
testing with it. It was just a little too much prop
for my 447, which was what Stuart guessed it might be,
and after I trimmed off 1/2" from each blade it
performed substantially better. Still however, I
didn't get quite as good a cruise speed as I had
gotten with my Warp prop, and climb was about equal.
The improvement was in smoother and quieter operation
-- noticable but not enf to make me want to sell my
Warp. Both my Warp and Powerfin were 2-bladers.
Stuart will argue that a 3 blader on a pusher isn't
necessarily less efficient than a 2 blader, but my
limited experience still supported the superiority of
a 2-blade (bigger diameter) prop. It will be
interesting to see what Stuart comes up with next, and
if I were buying, I'd be curious if the new design is
applicable in a 2-blade configuration as well. BTW,
Powerfins have always been light, and plenty stiff enf
to not require spacers; that is only on the IVOs. It
is great to have a knowledgable, composite prop
company out there always trying to improve things.
-Ben Ransom
--- Dave Rains wrote:
>
>
> Yes, I received a e-mail form Stuart Gort of Power
> Fin. He should have the
> first prototype done this months and production
> soon. It's a 3 blade 64"
> job designed for the Kolb Firestar, 503, 2.58. He
> says it's very stiff and
> light and requires no spacer for clearance. Sounds
> good. Skeeter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BILLBEAM(at)aol.com <BILLBEAM(at)aol.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Date: Friday, December 03, 1999 5:26 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re:Powerfin Props question
>
>
> >
> >
> >Question about PowerFin props.
> >
> >Heard rumor that they will not sell them for
> Firestars. Any one know
> >anything about this?
> >
> >Bill Beams
> >FSKXP, 503, Powerfin
> >Wilmore, Ky.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>
> Settlement...
> http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: Your home page |
INFO wrote:
>
>
> No problem with storage in the middle of the PolyFiber process, you can go
> for several years if you want to! But....... don't cover anything with
> vinyl for storage within at least a month of applying Poly anything,
> because the evaporating solvents might also soften the vinyl, and your wing
> might become one with it!!
>
> use something like bed sheets, etc.
>
> Thanx for the "heads up" on the web site, we're putting together a catalogue
> for ordering over e-mail & the web. I'll talk to the web master, & at
> least get our pictures & e-mail address back on!!
>
> thanx!!!!!!
> Jim & Dondi Miller
> Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
> Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
> (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
> Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
> E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, December 03, 1999 9:05 PM
> Subject: Your home page
>
> > Jim & Dondi,
There have also been reports of problems when covering the partially
finished parts with polyethylene thin film. I experienced some minor
problems of this, and Ray mentioned one time of someone who had big time
problems but don't remember the details as this was a long time ago.
Something from the polyethylene leached out onto the surface and
contaminated it. Think the bed sheets would be a good idea.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Powerfin Props question |
. It
>is great to have a knowledgable, composite prop
>company out there always trying to improve things.
>-Ben Ransom
Too bad they do not seem to want to deal with Canadians.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JCBuckeridge" <buckeridge(at)stlnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack |
I have mounted the BRS VLS softpact in the wing gap area (had to find a new
place to store my sleeping bag) in my 1993 KXP Firestar. As for this being
an "original", I'm not sure what that means. BRS did not make a unit for
my plane so I was left to my own devises. I made a new tray to use in
conjunction with the one they supplied. It has a one inch flange that rests
on the square tube over my head, comes down about three inches and then goes
forward to rest very lightly on the hoop used for the top of the windshield.
The two trays were nested and bolted to the little triangle pieces that
support the square tube. I had to reposition the rocket to the other side
because, as you probably know, the aileron controls are in the way. Also had
to remake a gap cover with a flap, much like the Velcro cover on the
softpack itself. I sent a video of what I had done to the folks at BRS and
never heard back, so it must have been OK. Anyway, after two years it's
still up there and I hope I never have to find out if it works.
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy <yamaha(at)cvn.net>
Date: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 6:44 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: BRS soft pack
>
>Has anyone mounted a soft pack on a original firestar in the wing gap area,
>instead of the canister under the boom sticking out the side. Thanks again
>for all the help.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Powerfin Props question |
Too bad. Canadians are people too. I oughta know - I are one. For my
.02, I've been very impressed with my dealings with Warp Drive.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: wood <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 1999 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re:Powerfin Props question
>
> . It
> >is great to have a knowledgable, composite prop
> >company out there always trying to improve things.
> >-Ben Ransom
>
>
> Too bad they do not seem to want to deal with Canadians.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/03/99 |
-->>the Matco Split rim sealing saga.
when i put mine together they sealed without any problems. as a plumbing contractor
i have found that a bit of lubricant on orings works wonders. and mine came
with
a bit allready on ,,,,, no problem,,,,,, the other secret is to keep things
clean, a speck of dirt or dust will hold a oring off the sealing surface.
boyd young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Links to Pictures |
>
>Hey Gang, Here is a few photos that our wingman Jim (Firestar II)took
>recently of our local flying area.
Great pictures, but you didn't finish telling us about the rest of the trip.
It's almost Christmas, and I'm sitting by the fireplace, so go ahead.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb Gearheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack |
Fellows
Would it be proper to advertise a Kolb MkIII for sale on these pages??
Herb in KY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack |
What would really be proper would be to advertise a Firefly.
Woody
Herb Gearheart wrote:
>
>
> Fellows
> Would it be proper to advertise a Kolb MkIII for sale on these pages??
> Herb in KY.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack |
On the original Firestar the pivot arm for the aileron is right under the
top tube, Brs said that it would be in the way of the soft pack. So I was
trying to find someone that figured out how to mount it in that area,
because to me that seems to be the best place to mount it. Mike Brown who
is very helpful on this list said he thought it would be no problem I'm
waiting to here back from him. I'm really not sure how close the KXP and my
Firestar are to each other in the cage construction. Thanks for your help
-----Original Message-----
From: JCBuckeridge <buckeridge(at)stlnet.com>
Date: Saturday, December 04, 1999 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: BRS soft pack
>
>I have mounted the BRS VLS softpact in the wing gap area (had to find a new
>place to store my sleeping bag) in my 1993 KXP Firestar. As for this being
>an "original", I'm not sure what that means. BRS did not make a unit for
>my plane so I was left to my own devises. I made a new tray to use in
>conjunction with the one they supplied. It has a one inch flange that rests
>on the square tube over my head, comes down about three inches and then
goes
>forward to rest very lightly on the hoop used for the top of the
windshield.
>The two trays were nested and bolted to the little triangle pieces that
>support the square tube. I had to reposition the rocket to the other side
>because, as you probably know, the aileron controls are in the way. Also
had
>to remake a gap cover with a flap, much like the Velcro cover on the
>softpack itself. I sent a video of what I had done to the folks at BRS and
>never heard back, so it must have been OK. Anyway, after two years it's
>still up there and I hope I never have to find out if it works.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Randy <yamaha(at)cvn.net>
>To: Kolb
>Date: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 6:44 PM
>Subject: Kolb-List: BRS soft pack
>
>
>>
>>Has anyone mounted a soft pack on a original firestar in the wing gap
area,
>>instead of the canister under the boom sticking out the side. Thanks
again
>>for all the help.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack |
Hi Randy, yes, it is a problem if your linkage is the old style between
the wings. It really wont fit without a lot of ugly modifications. I
thought you had the newer model. The only other suggestion I have would
be the tail tube as per BRS, or a VLS mounted above and between the
wings...?
Mike Brown
Olympic Ultralights
Full Lotus
Lynx Communication Systems
Vortex Generators
Ivoprops
BRS
Randy wrote:
>
>
> On the original Firestar the pivot arm for the aileron is right under the
> top tube, Brs said that it would be in the way of the soft pack. So I was
> trying to find someone that figured out how to mount it in that area,
> because to me that seems to be the best place to mount it. Mike Brown who
> is very helpful on this list said he thought it would be no problem I'm
> waiting to here back from him. I'm really not sure how close the KXP and my
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Second Half, Second Day -Beach run |
Ok, here is a little bit more of the fun we had way back in Nov.I hope you
don't mind me attaching it. I had all of it done before but somehow it got
lost in cyberspace and I just now have been able to finish it again. I will
send more later. I also have a River Ranch XC from back in May, with my old
wingman Bluebird if anyone is interested. That was a fun trip too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
>
>Fellows
> Would it be proper to advertise a Kolb MkIII for sale on these pages??
>Herb in KY.
>
I think it is a great idea. I am looking for an unassembled MK111 kit.
does anyone know where there is one available?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Beach Run Problems |
Ok, I did try to send it but it is too large and will not be excepted so I
will try to give you a web site to read it from there. It will take me some
time so bear with me. I think this will be better anyway.
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | List Support Auction Continues... |
Dear Listers,
The List Support Auction is still underway with about 5 or 6 days left.
I have been receiving a number of nice bids on the items generously
donated by Steven and Archie. I've listed the items up for auction
again below and have included the current high-bid.
If there is an item that you wish to bid on, please send your BID along
with the DESCRIPTION OF THE ITEM you are bidding on to the following
email address:
bids(at)matronics.com
Thanks again to Steven and Archie for donating these items to support
the List. And thank you to those that have sent in bids so far!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
======================================================================
Steven DiNieri (capsteve(at)wzrd.com) has generously offered to donate a
CoolStart RS 700-II to support the Lists this year. This unit retails
for $299. I have put a brochure for the product up on the web server
and you can have a look at it here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution/rsflyer.jpg
NEW:
$175 * CoolStart RS 700-II
======================================================================
Archie (archie97(at)earthlink.net) has generously donated a number of
interesting items to the Support the List cause this year. Each of
them are described below. If you have additional questions, please
email Archie directly at:
archie97(at)earthlink.net
> Upon receipt of the donation amount, items will be shipped.
> No reasonable offer refused!
> Unreasonable ones considered!
NEW:
- * Heated Pitot Tube, 24v. "L" shaped.
- * Aero Instruments #5814-2
- * Flap Motor w/ adjustable stops. 24v.
- * Comm.Aircraft Prods. #D145-00-35-7
USED:
$45 * Narco Transponder AT5-A
- * Astronautics amplifier servo 53-005-214 mod#P1SA
$15 * Narco altitude reporter. to 25k' Model# AR500
- * King KS-505 power supply modulator
- * RCA AVQ55 Weather radar antenna MI 591000
======================================================================
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack |
In a message dated 12/5/99 12:25:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,
motavia(at)olypen.com writes:
<< Hi Randy, yes, it is a problem if your linkage is the old style between
the wings. It really wont fit without a lot of ugly modifications. I
thought you had the newer model. The only other suggestion I have would
be the tail tube as per BRS, or a VLS mounted above and between the
wings...?
Mike Brown
Olympic Ultralights >>
I have a Firestar KX and mounted my softpak below the main tube (under the
gas tank) and haven't had any problems with it....course...I haven't used it
...either...and ....maybe it won't even .....work.....
I think the only problem with it is that it will probably pull off my
carburator if it is ever deployed....but ...so what ... if I really need it!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ajvann" <redhill(at)rose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: test, sorry please ignore |
test 1, 2, 3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cjc0751(at)banet.net |
I was wondering today what everybody thinks about the gear struts on their Mk III.
I think I bent the starboard gear leg a little today.
Granted, I have a total of 2 hrs in the Mk III and I need more practice with this
plane.
I was by myself, gusty crosswind, 60 mph final (I think) and just before I got
down
I started sinking real fast. Still, I didn't think I came down all that hard.
A couple of guys on the ground said it looked ok.
So, what about the landing gear struts?
Is anybody thinking about an alternate landing gear arrangement with
bungee cords or something?
Do I just have to chalk it up to experience and try to be more careful next time?
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
I agree with you--I think I might have slightly tweaked my friends kolb gear
on my first landing in that machine also. The landing was not great but not
that bad so I think the landing gear is either improperly sized or improperly
heat treated. Improvement is definitly in order. I think a gear should not
bend till you get reports back of an earthquake after you land. Jr--well may
be not that bad but they should be more durable
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
JRHolbrook(at)hotmail.com
| Subject: | Beach Run- one more time |
Here goes one more time for this story. Do you ever get the feeling someone
is trying to tell you something?
Firehawk
FRIDAY 11/12/1999 SECOND HALF OF DAY II- BEACH
RUN
Well I did try to finish the beach run but I kept getting interrupted.
I even did do the
rest of the 2nd day but it got lost in the mirth. So I will try to remember the
rest of the story
now.
As you may recall, Jim (Yellow Jacket) or (YJ) had come to the
EAA hanger to pick
John (Hawk 36) or (H36) and I up for some lunch. We all piled into Jim's car and
headed for
town and a sandwich at Arby's. No gas or oil needed on this trip so it was back
to the Creek for
some more flying.
Richard (Bluebird) or (BB) and Ted (White Lightning) or (WL) had finally
arrived at the
EAA hanger and were unloading Teds Firestar. YJ and H36 were anxious to get into
the air and
get a look at the beach before the real thing the next day. BB and WL would be
left at the
hanger to finish the Firestar assembly and walk around. We were going to have to
stop back by the
creek
for fuel on our way to the banner port. H36 and I told them we would talk about
maybe flying up
to O.E. Moons strip for a visit when we got back.
YJ took off a few minutes ahead of H36 and me. As we do for any short or
long XC YJ
was circling above until we could loosely form up to cross the 10 miles of trees
and water on our
way to Mexico Beach. (A note of caution here, if you ever come down to fly with
us remember
to please fly with plenty of altitude and try to always keep an ELZ in site. They
are few and
sometimes far between. The next best thing to an open field down here is a fairly
straight
logging road that is cut through a freshly chopped field of forest. Been there,
done that).
H36 and I depart 09. Soon we are heading south for the beach. Tyndall
Airforce Base is
just to our west and from 2500it is entirely visible. We have only one MOA to be
concerned
with and our course took us to its eastern edge. There is a forest road that marks
the eastern
boundary from the waters of East Bay to the beach so it is fairly easy to see even
without GPS.
Our descent was lazy with big 270-degree right turns. We had arrived over
the beach and
headed for Port St. Joe by way of our usual 10 to 250 off the sand and breakers.
The wind was
from the north so the air was just a tad rough for beach flying. We didnt care
though, we were
flying and thats what counted. The sea life was abundant. We saw, for the fist
time in the wild,
a sea cow or Manatee lazily swimming about 30 off the beach. There were porpoises,
schools of
banita, jellyfish, cigar minnows, thousands of rays in large schools, hundreds
of sea birds
including an Osprey looking for dinner. It was the first time H36 had gotten to
fly the beach in
control of the airplane. (Take that anyway you want.) He was having a ball, we
all were. We
could fly as low as we wanted without worrying too much about a place to land in
case of an
emergency. We had miles of beach for a runway. We flew on past the St. Joe paper
mill where
we were to do our past the next day, did a 180 and retraced our route back to Sandy
Creek.
Back at the Ranch, BB and WL are waiting for our return and to fuel up
so we could all
fly up to O.E. Moons place about 25 miles north. After refueling and radio checks
were off
again this time with that altitude over nothing but trees for the next 15 miles.
Very few places
to put down but we all are looking intently. We had our head wind so the GS was
a bit slow. We
didnt care though we were flying and in a larger group (5) now.
O.E. is our new member of the Southern Flyers. His strip is 2500 long north
and south,
mile west of Highway 231 and some 7 miles north of highway 20. He has a large
55x120
quansun hut hanger that he uses as his yard and home.
We all land to the north and find him and his buddy that flies RCs waiting for
us. After
introductions of the new ones we had a great visit in the hanger with O.E. serving
cold drinks.It
was getting late but with a little bit of a tail wind we were all going to be at
our homeports in
plenty of time before dark.
H36 took off first then did a low high speed pass. The rest followed. H36
and I turned
straight into the blazingly bright and hazy sunlight for the beach while YJ, WL,
and BB headed
back to the Ranch. Man was that sun intense. I had constructed me a pair of movable
shades to
cover my face in times like this from a piece of cardboard and a suction cup to
stick on the
inside of the wind screen. I was glad I had it with me. H36 radioed he couldnt
see a thing. Down
here at the beach and especially the banner port, you get not only the sun from
above but also
the sun from the reflection off the water. So it is twice as intense.
I want leave home without my shades. I found that they help me see a lot
clearer also if
Im looking towards the sun to see other aircraft. Sometimes around Panama City
there is a lot of
activity in the air and you dont want to miss seeing one, if you do you will have
to clean out
your pants after landing or someone will have to clean out your airplane after
they find it.
Hawk36 and I made it to the beach banner port coming in over West Bay making
sure we
were clear of Panama Citys Class D. After tying down, a fellow aviator (Skip) came
over to
look at Johns Miss Pfer and its912. He asked if he would be interested in some
new parts he
had for sale. John and I drove to the Helo Port on the beach to investigate. Skip
and John talked
about flying and 912s for a while then it was to the gas station and back to the
banner port for
a fill up. After we left the gas station we both saw what looked like a SeaRay
on down wind for
the north runway. It was and it was John Hiess with a friend. We introduced ourselves
while
John (SeaRay) or (SR) tied down. He would be back in the morning to fly the beach
with us. It
was a new toy for him and he was having a ball with it. It had a 914 Turbo 115
HP. It was
impressive.
Back at the Hombre house, we all got ready for the dinner at The Golden
Coral over in
town. I had called everyone that might want to come and invited them for our get
together. 12
people showed up. It was all the important ones for the Beach Run the next day.
What a feast
those people prepare. We could hardly walk out of there. Now it was time to head
home for
some needed rest for the next morning. It would be fly, fly, fly, as much as we
could stand.
End of Day II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
I have 4 bent landing gears on my list of sins. Two of them in separate
landing in very high crosswinds and the other two on a hard landing. The
left strut I have on now looks a bit peaked. I do think they bend to
easly, but whats the alternative? Kolb told me it saves bending the
frame which is pretty hard to fix. I wish one of you genuses would come
up with a better way and tell all of us about it. At Sun & Fun this
year,Dan Johnson bent both gear on a landing with the owners plane, with
the owner in it. Heavy load. Thats the Kolb Company Plane. I just
bought two back ups at $46 bucks each and thats not cheap. Before the
company was sold, i was told by Dan, who flew for them, that they were
going to try steel. Don't know what happened to it. The new Sonex
plane is using Titanium with great success. There ought to be something
that would take the shock and return to normal instead of all out of
shape. The bent ones don't even make good book ends.
Dallas Shepherd
Mark 3 105 hours on it. 4 1/4 landing gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "merle hargis" <merlepilar(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beach Run- one more time |
Enjoyed your recounting the Beach Run. Hope to join you maybe next year.
-----Original Message-----
From: michael highsmith <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com>
; possums(at)mindspring.com ;
JRHolbrook(at)hotmail.com
Date: Sunday, December 05, 1999 9:06 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Beach Run- one more time
>
>
>Here goes one more time for this story. Do you ever get the feeling someone
>is trying to tell you something?
>Firehawk
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | location water temp sensor? |
I am building a mark 3 with the 912 using the eis. the instructions from eis says
to
replace the the cylinder head temp thermistors with thermocouples then install
one of
the thermistors for water temp sensing. where and how has anyone mounted this
sensor?
tnx boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Some time ago the topic of titanium gear legs came up, and comments should
be in the archives, which I don't get along with. I'd be most lucky to find
my name in there. I'm Very Interested in the titanium too. I also
believe John Hauck is using steel gear legs, and if memory serves, there was
some reason he didn't recommend them. John ???? I also like the
taller stance that John's gear gives his plane. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 1999 6:30 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 7076 struts
>
> I have 4 bent landing gears on my list of sins. Two of them in separate
> landing in very high crosswinds and the other two on a hard landing. The
> left strut I have on now looks a bit peaked. I do think they bend to
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beach Run- one more time |
Boy, does that ever sound like a trip ! ! ! Good for you. And here, our
little club is dying on the vine. Just 1 (1) little S-4 Rans that's
flyable. 1 GT400 parked 40 miles away at Perris. A couple broke downs.
Crashed ) Several, including mine, under construction. Oh well.
Lonesome Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: michael highsmith <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 1999 6:03 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Beach Run- one more time
>
>
> Here goes one more time for this story. Do you ever get the feeling
someone
> is trying to tell you something?
> Firehawk
>
>
> FRIDAY 11/12/1999 SECOND HALF OF DAY II-
BEACH RUN
>
> Well I did try to finish the beach run but I kept getting
interrupted. I even did do the
> rest of the 2nd day but it got lost in the mirth. So I will try to
remember the rest of the story
> now.
>
> As you may recall, Jim (Yellow Jacket) or (YJ) had come to
the EAA hanger to pick
> John (Hawk 36) or (H36) and I up for some lunch. We all piled into Jim's
car and headed for
> town and a sandwich at Arby's. No gas or oil needed on this trip so it was
back to the Creek for
> some more flying.
>
> Richard (Bluebird) or (BB) and Ted (White Lightning) or (WL) had
finally arrived at the
> EAA hanger and were unloading Teds Firestar. YJ and H36 were anxious to
get into the air and
> get a look at the beach before the real thing the next day. BB and WL
would be left at the
> hanger to finish the Firestar assembly and walk around. We were going to
have to stop back by the
> creek
> for fuel on our way to the banner port. H36 and I told them we would talk
about maybe flying up
> to O.E. Moons strip for a visit when we got back.
>
> YJ took off a few minutes ahead of H36 and me. As we do for any
short or long XC YJ
> was circling above until we could loosely form up to cross the 10 miles of
trees and water on our
> way to Mexico Beach. (A note of caution here, if you ever come down to fly
with us remember
> to please fly with plenty of altitude and try to always keep an ELZ in
site. They are few and
> sometimes far between. The next best thing to an open field down here is a
fairly straight
> logging road that is cut through a freshly chopped field of forest. Been
there, done that).
>
> H36 and I depart 09. Soon we are heading south for the beach.
Tyndall Airforce Base is
> just to our west and from 2500it is entirely visible. We have only one MOA
to be concerned
> with and our course took us to its eastern edge. There is a forest road
that marks the eastern
> boundary from the waters of East Bay to the beach so it is fairly easy to
see even without GPS.
> Our descent was lazy with big 270-degree right turns. We had
arrived over the beach and
> headed for Port St. Joe by way of our usual 10 to 250 off the sand and
breakers. The wind was
> from the north so the air was just a tad rough for beach flying. We didnt
care though, we were
> flying and thats what counted. The sea life was abundant. We saw, for the
fist time in the wild,
> a sea cow or Manatee lazily swimming about 30 off the beach. There were
porpoises, schools of
> banita, jellyfish, cigar minnows, thousands of rays in large schools,
hundreds of sea birds
> including an Osprey looking for dinner. It was the first time H36 had
gotten to fly the beach in
> control of the airplane. (Take that anyway you want.) He was having a
ball, we all were. We
> could fly as low as we wanted without worrying too much about a place to
land in case of an
> emergency. We had miles of beach for a runway. We flew on past the St. Joe
paper mill where
> we were to do our past the next day, did a 180 and retraced our route back
to Sandy Creek.
> Back at the Ranch, BB and WL are waiting for our return and to
fuel up so we could all
> fly up to O.E. Moons place about 25 miles north. After refueling and radio
checks were off
> again this time with that altitude over nothing but trees for the next 15
miles. Very few places
> to put down but we all are looking intently. We had our head wind so the
GS was a bit slow. We
> didnt care though we were flying and in a larger group (5) now.
> O.E. is our new member of the Southern Flyers. His strip is 2500
long north and south,
> mile west of Highway 231 and some 7 miles north of highway 20. He has a
large 55x120
> quansun hut hanger that he uses as his yard and home.
> We all land to the north and find him and his buddy that flies RCs waiting
for us. After
> introductions of the new ones we had a great visit in the hanger with O.E.
serving cold drinks.It
> was getting late but with a little bit of a tail wind we were all going to
be at our homeports in
> plenty of time before dark.
> H36 took off first then did a low high speed pass. The rest
followed. H36 and I turned
> straight into the blazingly bright and hazy sunlight for the beach while
YJ, WL, and BB headed
> back to the Ranch. Man was that sun intense. I had constructed me a pair
of movable shades to
> cover my face in times like this from a piece of cardboard and a suction
cup to stick on the
> inside of the wind screen. I was glad I had it with me. H36 radioed he
couldnt see a thing. Down
> here at the beach and especially the banner port, you get not only the sun
from above but also
> the sun from the reflection off the water. So it is twice as intense.
> I want leave home without my shades. I found that they help me see
a lot clearer also if
> Im looking towards the sun to see other aircraft. Sometimes around Panama
City there is a lot of
> activity in the air and you dont want to miss seeing one, if you do you
will have to clean out
> your pants after landing or someone will have to clean out your airplane
after they find it.
> Hawk36 and I made it to the beach banner port coming in over West
Bay making sure we
> were clear of Panama Citys Class D. After tying down, a fellow aviator
(Skip) came over to
> look at Johns Miss Pfer and its912. He asked if he would be interested in
some new parts he
> had for sale. John and I drove to the Helo Port on the beach to
investigate. Skip and John talked
> about flying and 912s for a while then it was to the gas station and back
to the banner port for
> a fill up. After we left the gas station we both saw what looked like a
SeaRay on down wind for
> the north runway. It was and it was John Hiess with a friend. We
introduced ourselves while
> John (SeaRay) or (SR) tied down. He would be back in the morning to fly
the beach with us. It
> was a new toy for him and he was having a ball with it. It had a 914 Turbo
115 HP. It was
> impressive.
> Back at the Hombre house, we all got ready for the dinner at The
Golden Coral over in
> town. I had called everyone that might want to come and invited them for
our get together. 12
> people showed up. It was all the important ones for the Beach Run the next
day. What a feast
> those people prepare. We could hardly walk out of there. Now it was time
to head home for
> some needed rest for the next morning. It would be fly, fly, fly, as much
as we could stand.
> End of Day II
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <ibimiami(at)msn.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wood
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 1999 1:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: advertising
>
>Fellows
> Would it be proper to advertise a Kolb MkIII for sale on these
pages??
>Herb in KY.
>
I think it is a great idea. I am looking for an unassembled MK111 kit.
does anyone know where there is one available?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <ibimiami(at)msn.com> |
I have a 3/4 completed "Kit One" that I put to one side when I bought a
finished model in April and haven't worked on it since. Tail and ribs are
finished but wings have not been assembled. All parts are complete.
Best offer (minimum 50 cents on the dollar) takes it. My hours of sweat
and
labor will cost you a cold beer when you come to collect it.
Peter Volum
Miami, Florida
Days: (305) 255-4044
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wood
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 1999 1:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: advertising
>
>Fellows
> Would it be proper to advertise a Kolb MkIII for sale on these
pages??
>Herb in KY.
>
I think it is a great idea. I am looking for an unassembled MK111 kit.
does anyone know where there is one available?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
I also
> believe John Hauck is using steel gear legs, and if memory serves, there was
> some reason he didn't recommend them. John ???? I also like the
> taller stance that John's gear gives his plane. Big Lar.
Morning Gang:
Been using heat treated 4130 legs since 1987, on my
"original" Firestar and presently on my MK III. Thousands
of landings, some soft, and some not so soft, and they are
still giving me good service.
Have written to the List about these legs previously.
For the Firestar we used 1 1/8 X .0120 X 35.5 inches 4130
heat treated (by professional heat treat facility) to 48
Rockwell. Requires removing alum sleeves in gear leg
sockets. Drill all hole before heat treating. Legs are
inserted all the way in socket until they butt against the
joint. Requires axle sockets to be fabricated to attach
axles to gear legs. Legs must be heat treated. 4130 in its
normalized state is not very flexible. When bent, it will
remain bent. After heat treating the 4130 changes into a
extremely flexible spring. Puts aircraft in a natural 3-pt
stance. Land and takeoff shorter. No sweat 3-pt landings
to full stall. Also shifts more weight on tailwheel in the
3-pt stance. Helps prevent nose overs. ;-(
For the MK III we developed new landing gear leg sockets
forward of the stock location. Changed the angle of gear
legs. Took about 1/2 the angle out, straightening them up
somewhat, rather than flat in the stock configuration. Does
not seem to load up gear legs nearly as much as when angle
is flat. Axles are 8 inches forward of stock location. End
result is 100+ lbs on tailwheel. Can go full throttle with
brakes on and keep the tail on the ground. No problem
landing in tall weeds, mud, rocks, or beautiful Gulf Coast
sugar white sand. My MK III is a true tail dragger, in the
sense that it will get away from you on the ground if you do
not stay on top of it. With more than 100 lbs swinging out
on that tailwheel, when a turn is initiated, better be
putting some input in to stop it or it will keep on going.
No problem ground handling once you get accustomed to its
habits. Also use 1 1/8 X .0120 wall 4130 22 inches long
with 8.00X6 tires. With 15,00X6X6 tires we used 24 inch
legs. Puts the aircraft in a natural 3-pt stance. It takes
off and lands in this attitude. 3-pt landings are a cinch.
I am completely satisfied with my gear leg set up, and have
been for the last 6+ years. Same gear legs I flew the
Alaska flight with T/O weights exceeding 1100 lbs on that
trip.
I also use a shorted 4130 tailwheel strut, .090 wall heat
treated to 48 Rockwell. We fabricated a small flange with
single bushing to attach either Scott or Maule tailwheels.
I have flown with everything up to and including a Maule 8
inch pneumatic tailwheel. Presently, I am flying with a
Maule 6 inch solid wheel. It is providing good service, but
does transmit bumps to the airframe more than the pneumatic
setup. However, it is lighter and two inches shorter. I
like the added nose up position for landing and taking off.
Before I came up with the present set up for Firestar and MK
III, I experimented with most everything else, or had
experience flying those aircraft. What I have now works for
me. My airplanes do not live a life of luxury. They all
work hard cause I love to do short field landings into
confined areas on all types of terrain. It is exciting and
I get a sense of accomplishment when I am able to perform
these maneuvers that others only dream about. A landing on
a short sand bar in the Tallapoosa River or on the beaches
of the Gulf Coast are a "cup of tea" for Miss P'fer. Plus
it puts a smile on my face when we do a good one.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
The new Sonex
>plane is using Titanium with great success.
The sonex gear are about 350 bucks apiece! But they are working great from
what I hear.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> The sonex gear are about 350 bucks apiece! But they are working great from
> what I hear.
>
> Topher
Topher and Gang:
That is a little out of my price range. $700.00 a pair! I
could make a buncha 4130 gear legs. BTW, heat treater
usually have a bulk price fee. It cost as much for two legs
as it does for a dozen. The facility in Birmingham,
Alabama, charged me $50 or $60 back in 1993, for a pair of
legs.
I wouldn't mind testing a pair of those titanium legs for
them........
john h
BTW: Litespeed titanium mountain bikes makes one model that
uses the two chain stay tubes (lower rear frame tubes) for
rear suspension. Must be some good stuff to handle that
kind of flexing. Have talked to one man who rides this
model. He has no complaints.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard neilsen" <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
Two years ago I flew Fat Albert with steel gear legs. These were super, The legs
were longer, wider and very springy. The longer legs allowed for a higher angle
of attack on landing. It was surprising how small diameter a spring steel
leg can be. Dennis Souder seem to think they were stiffer but over small bumps
they felt much softer. Dennis was concerned about the legs being too long for
the people that might want to put the MKIII in a trailer. If they were available
I wouldn't have a second thought as a replacement.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
| Subject: | Powerfin new prop |
Here is a response from Powerfin regarding their new - being developed prop
which opened up a discussion thread this weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
| Subject: | Powerfin props and a new one for KOLBS? |
Oops! looks like i scrrewed up. Sorry, don't know what happen to my paste
- it looked ok prior to kmy sending it along to you guys - so here is Stuart
Gort's response:
Hi Todd,
The basic facts are true as supplied with minor corrections. The prop we are
designing is specifically for the Kolb with a 503/2.58. We chose a Kolb
because
it is in the center of the range of pusher airplanes we expect to prop with
this
model. Kolb owners may be excited because I'm saying the prop is
specifically
designed for their airplanes. So be it! There are a lot of them out there
and I
had to pick something to design for when compiling design parameters for the
engineer we work with.
We will extend the blades beyond their target design of 64" in order to
accommodate larger diameters and thus, more horsepower, but the 582 is not
the
target design. In the long run it may be theoretically more efficient than
the
B-Model we sold you but that will only be a technical matter discovered
after
testing it and the differences would be expect to be minimal. I expect the
B-Model is a far better match for the 582 than anything we offer now and
will
stack up very nicely against the rest of the competition. The low efficiency
issue I referred to with the gentlemen would only be for the B-Model on a
503 as
a three blade 60" prop. That has proven out to be somewhat lackluster (it
does
OK but doesn't stick out like some of our other designs do from the
competition)
although the two blade 65" works very well. The B-model works quite well on
the
582/2.58 as a 64" three blade and is recommended highly for the Kolb.
The term "low drag prop" was never used in my conversations and I wouldn't
want
that circulated as an advertising gimmick or slogan. Perhaps the gentleman
was
referring to a comment I may have made on the Kolb being a "low drag"
airframe.
In that context the design is quite specific to the Kolb although other,
"high
drag" airframes will run the prop well. Conversely, if we designed a prop
for
"high drag" airplanes and put it on a Kolb it won't work so good.
I believe you will be quite satisfied with the B-Model on your application
but I
will also understand if this situation makes you uncomfortable. Without
having
the new props in my hands and without knowing exactly when I'll have it
ready, I
fully recommend the B-Model.
Thanks for allowing me to clear up any issue and please feel free to contact
me
or place this e-mail on the Kolb list.
Sincerely,
Stuart Gort - Powerfin Inc.
Thompson, Todd wrote:
> Stuart, saw this on the Kolb- list (builders e-mail service) and thought
> you'd like to confirm or deny:
>
> "called the Powerfin folks a few weeks ago about a powerfin prop for my
> Firestar and the guy said they were in the process of obtaining a new mold
> for blades that were specifically designed for low-drag, pusher-type ULs
> like
> the Firestar. He gave a a several minute answer on the current designed
> Powerfins and their application and would not recommend me purchasing one
of
>
> the current Powerfin prop models. He said the new props would be ready
> sometime after the first of the year. "
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: location water temp sensor? |
I mounted my watertemp sender in the radiator hose between the engine return and
the radiator. The sender is mounted in a 1" diam. SS sleeve with a welded boss
and threaded (M-10). Others have welded a threaded connection directly into the
Rotax expansion tank housing.
Frank Reynen MKIII@565hrs
Subject: Kolb-List: location water temp sensor?
I am building a mark 3 with the 912 using the eis. the instructions from eis
says to
replace the the cylinder head temp thermistors with thermocouples then install
one of
the thermistors for water temp sensing. where and how has anyone mounted this
sensor?
tnx boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Clearance |
Hi Larry,
I think that 2" clearance is to close.
Hold a thermometer 2" away from a VW exhaust and have someone floor the
throttle to see what the minimum temperatures are created at full rpm and would
you like to expose your propblades to this even for a short time as the blades
whizz by . A fully loaded engine creates much higher exhaust temps. I would
think a min. clearance of 6" at least to get some air mixed in with the exhaust
gas to dilute the temp. My 912 dual exhausts are more than 12 inch foreward of
the prop blades to give you some idea.
Frank Reynen MKIII@565hrs
http://www.webcom.com/reynen/mark3.html
Subject: Kolb-List: Prop Clearance
Since these things always happen on Friday afternoon on the West Coast,
it's too late to call anybody anywhere ) here's yet another question for
the pros on the List. The exhaust system for my engine ( VW ) came
yesterday, so this afternoon I trial mounted it. Beautiful ! ! ! Pipes
curve up to a muffler section with replaceable fiberglass inserts, light,
simple, shiny chrome, reasonable price, etc, and they point straight back
parallel to the thrust line. Really looks GOOD ! ! ! This is a dual
exhaust system, and almost ( ?? ) looks great on my engine. The stacks go
back too far to work on a direct drive engine - they'd stick a foot past the
prop - and there's the question on mine. The redrive is pretty long, and
the prop will clear the ends of the stacks. Since the cylinders in the
right bank are offset rearward from the left bank, the end of the left
exhaust stack clears the prop by about 4 1/2 inches. I would think that
would be sufficient. However, the right stack only clears the prop by about
2". Ends of the stacks are about 16" from the center of the propeller hub,
almost at the middle of the blades. Is that enough clearance ?? Each pipe
has a bell mouth on it that extends about 4 1/2" past the end of the
fiberglass liner, and if necessary, that could be trimmed off. Kinda hate
to, cause they look so sexy, but if necessary.....................! ! ! If
I trim only the right side, they'd both end at the same distance from the
prop, and might look more balanced, but would that change the flow
characteristics ?? Can't see how it would, but ya never know.
Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Dallas,
Old Kolb developed a set of 6150 tapered spring steel rod gear legs. It was
my understanding that New Kolb was going to continue the project and market
them. They worked very well. These gear legs had a double taper, the
outside taper you see, plus the part in the gear leg socket was also
tapered. This resulted in even more deflection. Also the bottom was one
piece - no separate axle fittings. You may want to check with New Kolb to
see where they are at with the project, if you haven't already.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dallas
Shepherd
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 1999 9:30 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 7076 struts
I have 4 bent landing gears on my list of sins. Two of them in separate
landing in very high crosswinds and the other two on a hard landing. The
left strut I have on now looks a bit peaked. I do think they bend to
easly, but whats the alternative? Kolb told me it saves bending the
frame which is pretty hard to fix. I wish one of you genuses would come
up with a better way and tell all of us about it. At Sun & Fun this
year,Dan Johnson bent both gear on a landing with the owners plane, with
the owner in it. Heavy load. Thats the Kolb Company Plane. I just
bought two back ups at $46 bucks each and thats not cheap. Before the
company was sold, i was told by Dan, who flew for them, that they were
going to try steel. Don't know what happened to it. The new Sonex
plane is using Titanium with great success. There ought to be something
that would take the shock and return to normal instead of all out of
shape. The bent ones don't even make good book ends.
Dallas Shepherd
Mark 3 105 hours on it. 4 1/4 landing gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
A Kolb without bent gear is a Kolb that hasn't been flown much.
Duane the Plane in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack |
What would the vls system cost, and do you have a picture of one mounted on
a Firestar Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com>
Date: Sunday, December 05, 1999 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: BRS soft pack
>
>Hi Randy, yes, it is a problem if your linkage is the old style between
>the wings. It really wont fit without a lot of ugly modifications. I
>thought you had the newer model. The only other suggestion I have would
>be the tail tube as per BRS, or a VLS mounted above and between the
>wings...?
>Mike Brown
>Olympic Ultralights
>Full Lotus
>Lynx Communication Systems
>Vortex Generators
>Ivoprops
>BRS
>
>Randy wrote:
>>
>>
>> On the original Firestar the pivot arm for the aileron is right under the
>> top tube, Brs said that it would be in the way of the soft pack. So I
was
>> trying to find someone that figured out how to mount it in that area,
>> because to me that seems to be the best place to mount it. Mike Brown
who
>> is very helpful on this list said he thought it would be no problem I'm
>> waiting to here back from him. I'm really not sure how close the KXP and
my
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jwillia9(at)farmerstel.com |
| Subject: | lb-List:new guy question |
I have one of the older firestar 11, the rear seat has a tube that goes
a cross in the lower part of the seat, the newer ones I've seen don't
have this.The guy I bought it from said he was told by the company to
cut the tube out I would like to know a little more about this before I
go cutting on my new toy.One other thing he gave me a new set of landing
gear legs and said the top part is longer then the ones in it any help
would be welcome. thanks,George.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com> |
Hello all,
My question is about the hinges on the ailerons and flaps on the
MarkIII. I searched the archives with no luck. Did anyone else have a
problem with the ribs on the ailerons and flaps being in the way of
where the hinge should lay. Its seems the only thing I could do would
be to cut a small notch in the hinge to clear the ribs. The notch would
need to be about 1\4 inch deep by 3\8 inch wide in the hinge to clear
the ribs. Any help would be appreciated. Monte Evans
MarkIII
Dallas, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/6/99 9:03:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Monte84(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Did anyone else have a
problem with the ribs on the ailerons and flaps being in the way of
where the hinge should lay. Its seems the only thing I could do would
be to cut a small notch in the hinge to clear the ribs. The notch would
need to be about 1\4 inch deep by 3\8 inch wide in the hinge to clear
the ribs. Any help would be appreciated. >>
I had that problem and I cut a couple of notches in the trailing edge of the
hinge.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jacques Goudreault <jgoudrea(at)netrover.com> |
Sorry Duane, my MKII has 450 hrs with stock gears.
Jacques
MitchMnD(at)aol.com a crit :
>
> A Kolb without bent gear is a Kolb that hasn't been flown much.
> Duane the Plane in Tallahassee
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb Gearheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack |
List
What's in a name? A Kolb by any other name is still an insect. Still
awaiting permission. Herb in Ky
Woody Weaver wrote:
>
> What would really be proper would be to advertise a Firefly.
> Woody
>
> Herb Gearheart wrote:
> >
> >
> > Fellows
> > Would it be proper to advertise a Kolb MkIII for sale on these pages??
> > Herb in KY.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
re; Kolb w/o bent gear--my FF isn't bent, but I sure don't why! bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Its seems the only thing I could do would
> be to cut a small notch in the hinge to clear the ribs. The notch would
> need to be about 1\4 inch deep by 3\8 inch wide in the hinge to clear
> the ribs. Any help would be appreciated. Monte Evans
> MarkIII
> Dallas, GA
Monte and Gang:
That is what I did. Trimmed just enough to clear the end of
the rib.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Clearance |
Thanks Frank, it's nice to hear from you again. I'm going to check with
Scat, and with Warp Drive; then make the decision how much to cut.
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com>
Sent: Monday, December 06, 1999 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop Clearance
>
> Hi Larry,
> I think that 2" clearance is to close.
> Hold a thermometer 2" away from a VW exhaust and have someone floor the
> throttle to see what the minimum temperatures are created at full rpm and
would
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/6/99 8:03:41 PM Central Standard Time,
Monte84(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Its seems the only thing I could do would
be to cut a small notch in the hinge to clear the ribs. The notch would
need to be about 1\4 inch deep by 3\8 inch wide in the hinge to clear
the ribs. Any help would be appreciated. Monte Evans >>
I cut notches in my hinges just as you are suggesting. One thing you may
want to consider is clearance for the fabric. I am just starting the fabric
covering and realizing the the notches will need to be a bit bigger since the
fabric doesn't follow the exact contour of the rib once it is shrunk. I will
go back and make the notches a bit bigger. Something to think about.
John Bickham
Mark III
455 hours
M3-308 (N308JB reserved)
St. Francisville, LA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack |
Randy and Gang:
Check out the this link http://members.aol.com/GuillermoU/Johann.html and
see if it is the installation that you are talking about. I believe that it
is.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com>
Sent: Monday, December 06, 1999 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: BRS soft pack
>
> Randy wrote:
> >
> >
> > What would the vls system cost, and do you have a picture of one mounted
on
> > a Firestar Thanks
> > -----Original Message-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS soft pack |
Randy and Gang,
After looking some more at the pictures of the VLS on the Firestar I
noticed it doesn't have a center gap seal. The VLS sets higher than the top
of the wing, so some type of custom gap seal would have to be made if you
want one. Sorry!
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cooley <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 6:28 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: BRS soft pack
>
> Randy and Gang:
>
> Check out the this link http://members.aol.com/GuillermoU/Johann.html
and
> see if it is the installation that you are talking about. I believe that
it
> is.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <quick503(at)aisp.net> |
Thought I'd throw this out to the list. I'm getting ready to re-cover the
fuselage of my MKIII and am wondering how far to go up on the sides ( aft of
the cabin ). I am using an aluminum fuel tank with a filler I can put about
anywhere. I was thinking of adding a tube right under the wing in line with
the fuselage longerons and continue the fabric to the top. Any ideas?
Cheers, Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Caps and filler necks for aluminum tank |
Hello list,
I am designing an aluminum fuel tank for my Mark III. I have hit a bit a
snag with the fuel cap and filler neck. I plan on mounting my fuel cap on
top of the gap seal. The rear portion of my gap seal is .035 aluminum so
fuel spills won't kill the lexan. Have any of you used a fuel cap with
filler hose connected. Looking for possible sources. Was hoping for 1"
filler hose but can go bigger. I looked in the catalogs AS&S, LEAF, etc.
but I don't see enough detail to know what I'd be getting and if it would
work.
Any info appreciated,
John Bickham
Mark III
455 Hrs
M3-308 (N308JB reserved)
St. Francisville, LA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard neilsen" <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: MKIII Covering |
I had Kolb add to the original fuselage two tubes just as you suggested. I then fully enclosed the rear of my fuselage. I also added a luggage tray just above the original tanks for light storage (sleeping bag, cloths etc.). I did have to build a remote fuel filler. This works well for me. I have some photos on my web site http://pweb.netcom.com/~neilsenr/my_pages.html
Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII 20Hrs.
>>> "Mike" 12/07 8:14 AM >>>
Thought I'd throw this out to the list. I'm getting ready to re-cover the
fuselage of my MKIII and am wondering how far to go up on the sides ( aft of
the cabin ). I am using an aluminum fuel tank with a filler I can put about
anywhere. I was thinking of adding a tube right under the wing in line with
the fuselage longerons and continue the fabric to the top. Any ideas?
Cheers, Michael
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MKIII Covering |
I was thinking of adding a tube right under the wing in
line with
> the fuselage longerons and continue the fabric to the top. Any ideas?
> Cheers, Michael
Michael and Gang:
Sounds good to me. My MK III has been covered in that
configuration since day one.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Caps and filler necks for aluminum tank |
Have any of you used a fuel cap with
> filler hose connected. Looking for possible sources. Was hoping for 1"
> filler hose but can go bigger.
> John Bickham
John and Gang:
I have that set up on my MK III. I use standard 1 1/2 inch
filler hose. Can get it at any auto parts store. Filler
cap and hardward are Atwood nylon flip top marine type.
Remember the old racing motorcycle flip top fuel caps? This
marine set up is same same. Need to go at least 1 1/2
inches or you will have problems getting fuel at airports,
especially those that have those big C5A fuel nozzles.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
How are things going? Lindy in LA.
Lindy(at)snowhill.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BERNDSENCO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Slingshot recommendations |
Hi everyone,
I am new to ultralights but have been flying sailplanes and taildraggers for
years. Currently flying a Maule. I am interested in a plane that has great
stol capability and also a fast cruise speed. It would be used mostly solo
but I would like to have the ability to carry a passenger. The Slingshot
appears to fit these requirements very well. What is your opinion of the
Slingshot and, as far as engines is the 912 really worth the extra cost over
the 582? The factory tells me there is no difference in performance between
the two engines. Is this really true? I understand that a 4-stroke is more
reliable than a 2-stroke but is this really an issue? Are there any
partially completed kits out there for sale?
Thanks for your input.
Jon Berndsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Slingshot recommendations |
Jon,
It sounds like the SS might fit your requirements very well. One of the
things not commnly known about the SS is how stable it is in turbulence and
wind. It laughs at turbulence! For its weight and wing area, I don't think
there is a more stable aircraft in its class.
If you do lots of distance crusing, the 4-stroke is pretty hard to beat.
The more you fly the more sense a 912 makes. The less you fly, the better
the 582 looks. The SS will be faster with a 912, but take off and climb are
not improved. Plus the non-quantifables ... you'll feel better flying with
a 912.
Good luck!
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
BERNDSENCO(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 1:32 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Slingshot recommendations
Hi everyone,
I am new to ultralights but have been flying sailplanes and taildraggers for
years. Currently flying a Maule. I am interested in a plane that has great
stol capability and also a fast cruise speed. It would be used mostly solo
but I would like to have the ability to carry a passenger. The Slingshot
appears to fit these requirements very well. What is your opinion of the
Slingshot and, as far as engines is the 912 really worth the extra cost over
the 582? The factory tells me there is no difference in performance between
the two engines. Is this really true? I understand that a 4-stroke is more
reliable than a 2-stroke but is this really an issue? Are there any
partially completed kits out there for sale?
Thanks for your input.
Jon Berndsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
JRWillJR(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I agree with you--I think I might have slightly tweaked my friends kolb gear
> on my first landing in that machine also. The landing was not great but not
> that bad so I think the landing gear is either improperly sized or improperly
> heat treated. Improvement is definitly in order. I think a gear should not
> bend till you get reports back of an earthquake after you land. Jr--well may
> be not that bad but they should be more durable
There are also questions raised from time to time about the Challenger
landing gear. There are reports of the gear tube bending in hard
landings, and sometimes when the pilot felt it was not so hard. No
question that the gear legs are relatively delicate.
One thing to remember, however. A bent gear leg is a $30 replacement.
A very strong gear leg that simply would not bend COULD result in
serious non-repairable damage to the fuselage, which is a $3000
replacement. It is true that one could also design a gear that would be
both strong and would not transmit high stress to the fuselage. Such an
aftermarket gear exists for the Challenger. Problem is that
this gear is both $$$ and ###.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
hello list,
I was just wondering if anyone on the list haa a kawasaki 440
for sale or trade?
sincerly erik h baxter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com> |
Just a quick note to say thanks for the responses to my question about
the hinges. I'm headed to the garage to notch the hinges. Monte
MarkIII
Dallas, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sharp" <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Alignment, covering |
Folks,
I am at the point of Wing alignment for my Mark III. Any body have any
tricks or blunders they could share to help a fellow builder do it right the
first time.??
On covering, how much plumbing and electrical should I complete prior to
covering the fusalage?? I have the Kulzmen strobes, any thoughts on
mounting/wiring???????
Thanks,
Mike (i cut it twice and it's still too short!) Sharp
Mark III
N6490J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Good Day Listers:
Have just procured one of Herr Kuntzleman's little self-contained strobe
units... the SC-103... and am playing around with where to put it on the
slowly emerging Firefly.
Mr. K, the Man himself, told me via phone earlier today, that he thought the
top of the vertical fin was the way to go... sez he has a Mark II, and
that's where he installed it on his machine. I went ahead and built a
little fin mounting bracket per his advice. From a pure visibility
standpoint, the fin obviously makes sense... But I cannot help but wonder
whether the collective wisdom, cunning, expertise, and occasional
hard-headedness of the Kolb Choir might save me some grief here... Before I
actually drill any holes in this lawn chair aluminum, Is there a better
place I ought to consider putting this thing...? (No, Possum, that's a
totally obscene suggestion, and besides, you'd have to be directly under the
airplane to even see it...)
Your thoughts, please... are there any technical considerations which make
the top of the fin a bad idea...? Is there a better location...?
By the way... Had a nice visit with the good folks over at Lockwood Aviation
Supply in Sebring, FL earlier today... Very friendly and competent
people... I'll go back.
Beauford, The aluminum butcher of Brandon, FL
Hacking at FF #076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Alignment, covering |
> On covering, how much plumbing and electrical should I complete prior to
> covering the fusalage?? I have the Kulzmen strobes, any thoughts on
> mounting/wiring???????
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike (i cut it twice and it's still too short!) Sharp
Mike and Gang:
I do everything I can before covering. Once the covering is
on, it is a whole nuther ball game. Along those lines,
anything that requires access for maintenance, try to
install so you can get to it without tearing the aircraft
apart.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Nope
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Beauford Tuton
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 7:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Strobe Mounting
- Is there a better
place I ought to consider putting this thing...?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Clearance |
In a message dated 12/07/1999 9:22:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
todd.thompson(at)dsl.net writes:
<< Properly timed,
the blades can miss the exhaust pulse exiting the muffler and so not be as
effected by the heat. (I haven't figured out how to tell when my blades are
properly timed to miss the exhaust pulses.) >>
I thought about this for a few minutes, but then came to the conclusion that
since the propeller speed reduction system (gear Box) is turning the prop at
a different RPM than the crankshaft, the prop would not stay in sync with the
exhaust pulse, assuming you could figure out how to do that in the first
place. Kinda like the old lady who, having her car serviced, wanted all of
the valve stems on the tires positioned in the same location.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
350 hrs
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb mark III hinges |
"""" My question is about the hinges on the ailerons and flaps on the
MarkIII. I searched the archives with no luck. Did anyone else have a
problem with the ribs on the ailerons and flaps being in the way of
where the hinge should lay. """" Monte Evans
MarkIII
Dallas, GA
yup i had the same problem and after you get the fabric on you will find that the
notches in the hinges will need to be wider than you think to keep the fabric
cutting.
keep the notches in the hinges from having any shapr corners or edges so that
the metal doesn't fatigue and crack from viberation.
boyd markIII utah
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Alignment, covering |
>Folks,
>
>I am at the point of Wing alignment for my Mark III. Any body have any
>tricks or blunders they could share to help a fellow builder do it right
the
>first time.??
Just do it like the book sez.....over and over and over and over:)
>On covering, how much plumbing and electrical should I complete prior to
>covering the fusalage?? I have the Kulzmen strobes, any thoughts on
>mounting/wiring???????
Do EVERYTHING, especially anything that will be covered up. One thought on
the strobes: Make sure that you run the wires and drill the holes for
wingtip strobes far enough forward on the bow tip so that the aleron
balancers can be moved out far enough to balance the aleron without hitting
the strobes ....sheesh
>Thanks,
>
>Mike (i cut it twice and it's still too short!) Sharp
>
>Mark III
>N6490J
your welcome
Geoff (it actually flies) Thistlethwaite
============================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"List Support Auction Continues..." (Dec 5, 12:21pm)
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Final Days to Make Your Bid! |
Dear Listers,
The List Support Auction is still underway with only 2 or 3 days left to
make your bid! I've received a number of new bids on the items
generously donated by Steven and Archie. I've listed the items up for
auction below and have updated the current high-bids. If your bid was
lower than the one shown below on a given item, it means that someone
else has bid a greater amount. If you still would like the item, please
feel free to send in a new bid.
If there is an item that you wish to bid on, please send your BID along
with the DESCRIPTION OF THE ITEM you are bidding on to the following
email address:
bids(at)matronics.com
Thanks again to Steven and Archie for donating these items to support
the List. And thank you to those that have sent in bids so far!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
======================================================================
Steven DiNieri (capsteve(at)wzrd.com) has generously offered to donate a
CoolStart RS 700-II to support the Lists this year. This unit retails
for $299. I have put a brochure for the product up on the web server
and you can have a look at it here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution/rsflyer.jpg
NEW:
$175 * CoolStart RS 700-II
======================================================================
Archie (archie97(at)earthlink.net) has generously donated a number of
interesting items to the Support the List cause this year. Each of
them are described below. If you have additional questions, please
email Archie directly at:
archie97(at)earthlink.net
> Upon receipt of the donation amount, items will be shipped.
> No reasonable offer refused!
> Unreasonable ones considered!
NEW:
- * Heated Pitot Tube, 24v. "L" shaped.
- * Aero Instruments #5814-2
- * Flap Motor w/ adjustable stops. 24v.
- * Comm.Aircraft Prods. #D145-00-35-7
USED:
$95 * Narco Transponder AT5-A
- * Astronautics amplifier servo 53-005-214 mod#P1SA
$75 * Narco altitude reporter. to 25k' Model# AR500
- * King KS-505 power supply modulator
$10 * RCA AVQ55 Weather radar antenna MI 591000
======================================================================
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MKIII Covering |
I've thought much about this too, Mike. The extra room sounds real good.
I've also given a LOT of thought to tapering it down from head level behind
the seats to mid level at the rear, following the existing tubes. Seems
like it might give a little, or a lot, better airflow back to the prop.
That would solve your filler location problem too. I'll probably use the
Titan Tornado fuel filler system. It's similar to what John was describing.
Also will probably follow Cliff & Carol (??) Striplings' idea of tapering
the rear of the fuselage back to a point, also for better airflow to the
prop. I just took a fast look through my files, trying to find their
website to the pics of it, and can't find them. Help ! ! ! They did a
beautiful job, and it's well worthy of consideration.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike <quick503(at)aisp.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 5:14 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: MKIII Covering
>
> Thought I'd throw this out to the list. I'm getting ready to re-cover the
> fuselage of my MKIII and am wondering how far to go up on the sides ( aft
of
> the cabin ). I am using an aluminum fuel tank with a filler I can put
about
> anywhere. I was thinking of adding a tube right under the wing in line
with
> the fuselage longerons and continue the fabric to the top. Any ideas?
> Cheers, Michael
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MKIII Covering |
My Mk II has an aluminum tank also - the filler tube extends to the rear,
right under the prop.
But I'm really curious to know what would make you want to recovering it, or
have I not been paying attention.
David Bruner
Mk II #202
Kingston, NY
>
>Thought I'd throw this out to the list. I'm getting ready to re-cover the
>fuselage of my MKIII and am wondering how far to go up on the sides ( aft
of
>the cabin ). I am using an aluminum fuel tank with a filler I can put about
>anywhere. I was thinking of adding a tube right under the wing in line with
>the fuselage longerons and continue the fabric to the top. Any ideas?
>Cheers, Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <quick503(at)aisp.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MKIII Covering |
----- Original Message -----
From: David Bruner <brunerd(at)hvi.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 5:26 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MKIII Covering
>
> My Mk II has an aluminum tank also - the filler tube extends to the rear,
> right under the prop.
>
> But I'm really curious to know what would make you want to recovering it,
or
> have I not been paying attention.
>
> David Bruner
> Mk II #202
> Kingston, NY
>
Long, sad story. I bought a MKIII on floats to replace my Quicksilver Sport
II Trainer. I knew it needed work but it was in worse shape than I thought.
I threw away everything from the fuselage aft and even found a few rusted
tubes (rusted from the inside out )in the fuselage. The wings have corrosion
on the aft spars and the flap and aileron spars. There is corrosion
everywhere steel and aluminum touch .... some repairable, some not. I most
likely could have repaired more of the pieces but I guess I am too much of a
perfectionist ( read anal ). Everything aluminum is now acid etched,
alodined, epoxy primed where glue will touch and zinc chromate where it
won't. It will also have inspection plates in the wings and float plane
drain grommets at the trailing edges. I am setting up a web page and will
have pictures of this project as well as a new Challenger II I am building
....... if this Kolb project doesn't kill me first!
Cheers, Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | RE: rear enclosure ideas |
(Referencing two posts below)
I enclosed the rear of the Mkiii to the lower gap seal with composite
panels. After using it awhile, I am now planning a change. I will be
changing the enclosure to more like what Larry is suggesting below. As
Larry suggested, I too have a hunch it might feed prop air just as well,
but the real reason will be to get less in-cabin noise. By enclosing all
the way up I have built a cavity with one wall being a sound-radiating
rotax, and it is a very efficient noise maker! The low-frequency is
killing me inside there. I wish to add a barrier between my ears in the
cabin and that loud engine. I will do that by following those diagonal
tubes down and back from the top of your heads with a composite panel,
should be better than fabric cause it has internal damping (less drumming),
and later will probably stick on some soundfoam. Another thing that is
making a racket up there is the gap seal. It has a couple rattles in it
and they happily buzz and hum and rattle all thru the flight. Ultimately,
the gap seal will be replaced with a composite structure providing gap seal
function with less interference drag at interface to windshield, also
provide 8 gallons fuel storage, also provide fairing for front of engine.
Cliff's great page is: http://members.tripod.com/~froghair/cliffs/
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MKIII Covering
I've thought much about this too, Mike. The extra room sounds real good.
I've also given a LOT of thought to tapering it down from head level behind
the seats to mid level at the rear, following the existing tubes. Seems
like it might give a little, or a lot, better airflow back to the prop.
That would solve your filler location problem too. I'll probably use the
Titan Tornado fuel filler system. It's similar to what John was
describing.
Also will probably follow Cliff & Carol (??) Striplings' idea of tapering
the rear of the fuselage back to a point, also for better airflow to the
prop. I just took a fast look through my files, trying to find their
website to the pics of it, and can't find them. Help ! ! ! They did a
beautiful job, and it's well worthy of consideration.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike <quick503(at)aisp.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 5:14 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: MKIII Covering
>
> Thought I'd throw this out to the list. I'm getting ready to re-cover the
> fuselage of my MKIII and am wondering how far to go up on the sides ( aft
of
> the cabin ). I am using an aluminum fuel tank with a filler I can put
about
> anywhere. I was thinking of adding a tube right under the wing in line
with
> the fuselage longerons and continue the fabric to the top. Any ideas?
> Cheers, Michael
>
>
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Spence, Steve" <Steve.E.Spence(at)usdoj.gov> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Beauford Tuton [SMTP:beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 7:22 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Strobe Mounting
I mounted my strobe on forward side of BRS rocket tube with rubber and a hose
clamp. BRS unit is mounted between engine and wing gap seal. I chose that location
for visibility and ease of wiring sake, seems to work well for me.
Steve Spence FF013
Auburn Hills, MI
Is there a better location...?
Beauford, The aluminum butcher of Brandon, FL
Hacking at FF #076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Wing Alignment, covering |
On the wing alignment, my only advice is to take your time and do it right.
Once those holes are drilled on the tabs on the inboard end of the spar, it
is very tough to go back. I spent a whole Saturday with a couple friends
setting up my Firestar, building some adjustable stands to hold the wings in
place, measuring, measuring, and completing the procedure. I used wooden
H-structures like the Firestar manual suggests. Clamps on the stands allow
you to raise and lower the leading or trailing edge and the entire wing. It
is fiddly work but very satisfying when you do your first flight and find
that the plane stalls straight ahead. When you drill the holes for the pins
make sure you don't enlarge the hole. My A&P friend had me drill the hole
and then he used a special attachment from his machine shop to dress the
insides of the hole. I have no idea what it was called, but for the first
few months it was WORK to get the pins through those holes(which is a good
thing).
As far as plumbing and electrical, I didn't do any of that until the plane
was covered and painted. Of course, you may have more extensive plumbing in
a Mark III. My thought is always that you will need to do maintenance on
things eventually, why bury them where you have to tear up your plane to get
at them?
Bruce E. Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Sharp [mailto:mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 7:05 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Wing Alignment, covering
I am at the point of Wing alignment for my Mark III. Any body have any
tricks or blunders they could share to help a fellow builder do it right the
first time.??
On covering, how much plumbing and electrical should I complete prior to
covering the fusalage?? I have the Kulzmen strobes, any thoughts on
mounting/wiring???????
Thanks,
Mike (i cut it twice and it's still too short!) Sharp
Mark III
N6490J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Worthington" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mysterious Lindy |
I believe you can view the mysterious on page 35 of the November 99
Ultralight Flying magazine. Second from the left in the bottom picture.
Rocketman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Worthington" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/07/99 |
I don't care for the heal brakes in my Kolb Firestar. I am working on a
differential brake that mounts on the stick for my Firestar. The brake
uses two side by side BMX bike brake handles mounted on a homemade bracket.
The problem I have is the bike handles move only about 3/4 of an inch but I
need to move the brake arm 1 1/4 inches. I have some ideas but I am looking
for suggestions from the collective kolb-list mind.
Vic Worthington
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/07/99 |
In a message dated 12/8/99 11:50:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, vicw(at)vcn.com
writes:
<< The problem I have is the bike handles move only about 3/4 of an inch but I
need to move the brake arm 1 1/4 inches. I have some ideas but I am looking
for suggestions from the collective kolb-list mind.
>>
Vic, how about change from mechanical to Matco hydraulic disc brakes, use
two go-cart master cylinders which would be actuated by your bike levers. I
guarantee you will like the Matco's better [and they are pretty].
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hawk172(at)webtv.net.ETAsAhQP8U8SLfDYIJfbsHpU/VO2ESLsRQIUVvBpnfmUXebzbr5mjUVlQEod0K8Date: |
I am new to the list and would like to know if there are any list
menbers in the up state New York area? would very much like to talk to
them if there is.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
"UPstate" NY is a large place, where are you located? It will help people
respond who are close to you.
do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/07/99 |
HShack(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 12/8/99 11:50:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, vicw(at)vcn.com
> writes:
>
> << The problem I have is the bike handles move only about 3/4 of an inch but
I
> need to move the brake arm 1 1/4 inches. I have some ideas but I am looking
> for suggestions from the collective kolb-list mind.
> >>
if you're not i any weight trouble, you could install some kind of
bellcranks with the output arm twice as long as the input arm. this
gives the handle movement an amplification of two. added benefit is that
shorter quality cables are cheaper to come by than longer ones.
ole in norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Mounting |
Beauford,
A Kit Plane article said that the top of the tail is the worst place to put
it
as far as drag is concerned. Richard Swiderski
Beauford Tuton wrote:
>
> Good Day Listers:
> Have just procured one of Herr Kuntzleman's little self-contained strobe
> units... the SC-103... and am playing around with where to put it on the
> slowly emerging Firefly.
> Mr. K, the Man himself, told me via phone earlier today, that he thought the
> top of the vertical fin was the way to go... sez he has a Mark II, and
> that's where he installed it on his machine. I went ahead and built a
> little fin mounting bracket per his advice. From a pure visibility
> standpoint, the fin obviously makes sense... But I cannot help but wonder
> whether the collective wisdom, cunning, expertise, and occasional
> hard-headedness of the Kolb Choir might save me some grief here... Before I
> actually drill any holes in this lawn chair aluminum, Is there a better
> place I ought to consider putting this thing...? (No, Possum, that's a
> totally obscene suggestion, and besides, you'd have to be directly under the
> airplane to even see it...)
> Your thoughts, please... are there any technical considerations which make
> the top of the fin a bad idea...? Is there a better location...?
>
> By the way... Had a nice visit with the good folks over at Lockwood Aviation
> Supply in Sebring, FL earlier today... Very friendly and competent
> people... I'll go back.
>
> Beauford, The aluminum butcher of Brandon, FL
> Hacking at FF #076
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: "ENGINE"!!!!!!! |
HOW MUCH IS HE ASKING?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: "ENGINE"!!!!!!! |
HOW MUCH DOSE HE WANT FOR IT...... WOULD HE DO A TRADE IN FOR A COSTOM MADE
GAS TANK THAT WORTH $350?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gordona(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | looking for a MK III |
I'm looking for a 912-powered MK III, in good shape. I'm currently
considering a nice 582-powered machine (found through this list) but I'd
rather have a 4-stroke. Please contact me if you know of one for sale.
I'm located in central Texas but would be willing to work on the logistics
of a long distance purchase, for the right bird.
Gordon
512-260-1592
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Mounting |
Hi Beauford et al: The strobe on all three of my Kolbs has been mounted on
the top side of the boom tube ~ half way between the back of the cage and
beginning of the vertical fin. It is held in place with a single SS hose
clamp around the boom tube. The strobe driver is mounted in the cage and the
wire is stretched along the top of the boom tube and held in place under a
piece of fabric tape then painted. Kunzleman will supply a long lead if
needed or you can extend the one you have. Clean looking installation that
has very high visibility. Duane the plane in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Mounting |
Thanks, Dennis... Duly noted... appreciate your experienced thoughts...
Beauford
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Souder <flykolb(at)epix.net>
Date: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 8:42 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Strobe Mounting
>
>Nope
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Beauford Tuton
>Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 7:16 PM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Strobe Mounting
>
>
>- Is there a better
>place I ought to consider putting this thing...?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
affordaplane(at)listbot.com
Hello,
I have a costom made gas tank 12 gal.... 12'' deep 14''
long...22'' wide will sell for $200 its worth $350 in Aircraft Spruce and
Wicks Aircraft the hole tank is there the tank is ready to go. the tank is
$200 o.b.o.
Sincerly,
Erik H Baxter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | edchmiel(at)mindspring.com |
FromName: Ed Chmielewski
FromAddress: edchmiel(at)mindspring.com
I have recently bought a Twinstar and would appreciate any help in buying the following:
1. New nosecone (present aluminum one is dented).
2. Assembly / parts catalog.
3. Weight & balance data / gross / etc.
4. It is serial #1374; is it a MkII? No flaps, SCSI 503.
Much thanks, I enjoy lurking this fine site.
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon- (stei0302)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | Foam Spacer For Aelorons During Transit |
My aelerons (original Firestar) were flopping against each other during
transit on my trailer and had wore holes in each other. Bungee cords on
the horns were insufficient so I hung rectangular high density foam blocks
from the tail collector to keep the aelerons from moving too much.
I had another experience with an FAA inspector at the River Falls WI
Airport-2 inspections in 2 months. He did not have a scale and said I
better have it weighed to make sure it was 254 lbs. or under. I probably
should not have admitted I did not know the weight of the plane-it has no
brakes, points ignition, IVO prop, single carb 447 and very basic
instruments-so I think it is very close. I bought the plane used in late
summer and have 20 hours of experience in it. We talked about his
definition of "congested areas" and he seemed to be outwardly friendly.
He was on his way to church on a beautiful fall Sunday morning and I was
enjoying calm skies and clear visibility over the Wisconsin farm country.
Are others examined this closely? What is the fine if I am over 254lbs.?
Should I find another place to fly from? The grass runway will be a
hockey arena next fall anyway.
Dale Seitzer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
My apologies to the list. I have been infected with the Happy 99 virus and
have unwittingly been sending it on. Since I have already sent a posting to
the list since being infected The damage may have been allready done. This
is a nusience virus. It attaches itself to emails and is passed along
without the sender being aware. If you see an attachment saying happy99
please delete it without opening it. I have tried anti virus and hopefully
have caught it. Just in case I feel it is my duty to inform you of my
unintentional passing of the virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank, Christie, Frank & Meagan Hodson" <fchodson(at)bigfoot.com> |
Well, the nice thing (and bad thing sometimes) is that you can't post any
virus' to this email list because you can't post any files here. Even if
you send an email with a file attached to the Kolb list, the file will be
stripped from the message before the text is posted.
Sorry you got bit!! Listen up everyone...you know the old saying "It's
never too late"...Well that saying doesn't go with viruses. It's ALWAYS too
late if you don't get a virus protector when you had the chance. Less than
$30 to protect your $2000 computer and Priceless data.
Franklin E. Hodson III
fchodson(at)bigfoot.com
http://www.hodsonhome.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of wood
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 11:57 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: virus
My apologies to the list. I have been infected with the Happy 99 virus and
have unwittingly been sending it on. Since I have already sent a posting to
the list since being infected The damage may have been allready done. This
is a nusience virus. It attaches itself to emails and is passed along
without the sender being aware. If you see an attachment saying happy99
please delete it without opening it. I have tried anti virus and hopefully
have caught it. Just in case I feel it is my duty to inform you of my
unintentional passing of the virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: for sale...... |
yes the hole tank is there selling it for 200 or trade for rotax 440
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Kolb-List: virus" (Dec 9, 9:32am)
| Subject: | Re: Sharing Enclosures (was: virus) |
>--------------
>
>My apologies to the list. I have been infected with the Happy 99 virus and
>have unwittingly been sending it on. Since I have already sent a posting to
>the list since being infected The damage may have been already done. This
>is a nusience virus. It attaches itself to emails and is passed along
>without the sender being aware. If you see an attachment saying happy99
>please delete it without opening it. I have tried anti virus and hopefully
>have caught it. Just in case I feel it is my duty to inform you of my
>unintentional passing of the virus.
>
>--------------
Listers,
The Kolb-List and other Lists here at Matronics are setup such that
messages posted with enclosures are not reposted. There are a number of
reasons I have chosen to run the Lists in this manner. Protecting
everyone from receiving computer viruses is one main one. Another is to
hold the archive size down. And another is to conserve the network
bandwidth required to resend messages.
I do have a couple of methods for Listers to share files with other
members, however. The process basically involves either FTPing the
file to my server, where I will move it to a public area for all to
download from, or emailing the enclosure to a special address setup
to receive them where I will then move them to the public area.
Here are the instructions for using FTP to upload data files for
sharing with other members:
http://www.matronics.com/enclosures.html
Or, you may email them to:
enclosures(at)matronics.com
It usually takes me about a day to move the files and I will let you
know via return email when the files have been made available.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Joined The Ranks |
Not at all. There is only one "first flight," and for many ul pilots it is
often their first solo. I had soloed a trike just a few weeks before my
first solo in my squeaky clean Firestar. I remember it well. The plane
grooved and inspired confidence right away. I had only one instrument in the
panel at the time, an ASI, with a hall meter on one lift strut for backup.
Of course, I had an experienced pilot fly the plane several times to make
sure it was trimmed out. That made me feel a whole lot better about going
up, up, and away. Like many of you, I was a little shook up by the vibration
through the airframe right after takeoff until I realized the wheels were
out of balance. Some stick-on weights took care of that and I started
greasing the landings. What a day! A day I hope to repeat in 2000 or 2001!
Bruce E. Harrison
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
If the "hole" is 200 how much for the tank without the hole???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flatwood" <flatwood(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Joined The Ranks |
dennis:
you're a good writer thanks for sharing that story. i've been thinking about
going a similar route. i soloed in my dads cessna 140 in 1970, my dad died
the next year in a twin commanche crash, then my mom made me promise to stop
flying and sealed it by selling the 140. well, i did stop but a few months
ago (i'm now 54) she finally let me off the hook (i've been a good son and
take promises to my mom very seriously), so....
after looking at a lot of the ultralights on the internet i found out about
the kolb line and they look like the way to go. i've started working on a
thousand foot grass runway on some property i own behind my house. when i
get that done i want to start using it.
if theres a kolb dealer within a half days drive of 36.06.51N 086.22.61W
give me a shout (better yet, email me) or are they just available from the
factory???
keep up the good work (and good stories)..
your friend,
-=tab
flatwood studio
http://questx.com/flatwood
http://questx.com/airstrip
From: Dennis Watson <djwatson(at)olg.com>
>
> I didn't mean for this E-mail to be so long, and I hope I havn't bored all
> the "Old Salts" on the list with my story, but, I know there must be some
> new guys out there who like to read about these first time stories like I
> do.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: for sale...... |
there is no hole im just saying the tank is 200 all spouts are there ready
to go on yuor aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Joined The Ranks |
My dream has always been to have my own airstrip and T-hangar. Could you use
a neighbor?
As far as Kolb dealers are concerned, I'd recommend ordering direct from the
new factory located in London, KY.
Bruce E. Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: flatwood [mailto:flatwood(at)bellsouth.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Joined The Ranks
dennis:
you're a good writer thanks for sharing that story. i've been thinking about
going a similar route. i soloed in my dads cessna 140 in 1970, my dad died
the next year in a twin commanche crash, then my mom made me promise to stop
flying and sealed it by selling the 140. well, i did stop but a few months
ago (i'm now 54) she finally let me off the hook (i've been a good son and
take promises to my mom very seriously), so....
after looking at a lot of the ultralights on the internet i found out about
the kolb line and they look like the way to go. i've started working on a
thousand foot grass runway on some property i own behind my house. when i
get that done i want to start using it.
if theres a kolb dealer within a half days drive of 36.06.51N 086.22.61W
give me a shout (better yet, email me) or are they just available from the
factory???
keep up the good work (and good stories)..
your friend,
-=tab
flatwood studio
http://questx.com/flatwood
http://questx.com/airstrip
From: Dennis Watson <djwatson(at)olg.com>
>
> I didn't mean for this E-mail to be so long, and I hope I havn't bored all
> the "Old Salts" on the list with my story, but, I know there must be some
> new guys out there who like to read about these first time stories like I
> do.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: for sale...... |
"YOUR"
is that better
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flatwood" <flatwood(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Joined The Ranks |
kolb is in london kentucky?? that cant be too far from me in central tenn.
i've got 40 acres and am thinking about developing five or six two acre lots
(while i've still got the dozer) in the woods just south of my proposed
airstrip and selling them off so i can finance this airplane thing (i've got
a lot of catching up to do). i would only sell with restrictions for log
houses and ultralight flyers and theres plenty of room for community hangers
etc. my house and recording studio business are on the north side of the
strip. the area is developing into multiple sports complexes in a rural
area. nashville paintball club is a few miles down the road with their 40
acres. tennessee biplane club five or six miles to the southeast with their
2500' grass strip. nascar to the southwest. the strip here would be about
1000' with a 400' buffer into the prevailing wind coming up from the
southeast. class g airspace from the deck up. its in the cedars of lebanon
state forest which is one of the oldest forests on the planet. i've been
trying to figure out how to preserve some trees while still being able to
get some utility from it. the front half of the property is pretty much open
where the strip will be. but i dunno. i've gotten pretty lazy over the
years. sounds like a lot of work but it would be cool if i could pull it
off.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce E. Harrison <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 2:55 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Joined The Ranks
>
> My dream has always been to have my own airstrip and T-hangar. Could you
use
> a neighbor?
>
> As far as Kolb dealers are concerned, I'd recommend ordering direct from
the
> new factory located in London, KY.
>
> Bruce E. Harrison
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: flatwood [mailto:flatwood(at)bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 3:13 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Joined The Ranks
>
>
> dennis:
>
> you're a good writer thanks for sharing that story. i've been thinking
about
> going a similar route. i soloed in my dads cessna 140 in 1970, my dad died
> the next year in a twin commanche crash, then my mom made me promise to
stop
> flying and sealed it by selling the 140. well, i did stop but a few months
> ago (i'm now 54) she finally let me off the hook (i've been a good son and
> take promises to my mom very seriously), so....
>
> after looking at a lot of the ultralights on the internet i found out
about
> the kolb line and they look like the way to go. i've started working on a
> thousand foot grass runway on some property i own behind my house. when i
> get that done i want to start using it.
>
> if theres a kolb dealer within a half days drive of 36.06.51N 086.22.61W
> give me a shout (better yet, email me) or are they just available from the
> factory???
>
> keep up the good work (and good stories)..
>
> your friend,
>
> -=tab
> flatwood studio
> http://questx.com/flatwood
> http://questx.com/airstrip
>
>
> From: Dennis Watson <djwatson(at)olg.com>
> >
> > I didn't mean for this E-mail to be so long, and I hope I havn't bored
all
> > the "Old Salts" on the list with my story, but, I know there must be
some
> > new guys out there who like to read about these first time stories like
I
> > do.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Joined The Ranks |
Hi Dennis and Gang:
Congratulations on your first flight in your Firestar. I know how great a
feeling it is as I just soloed this past Aug. 1999 in a Twinstar MK II. I
can't wait (well, guess I'll have too) till I get my Firestar built and
flying.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II
< I finally got to fly my Firestar!!!>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From:
hawk172(at)webtv.net.ETAsAhQP8U8SLfDYIJfbsHpU/VO2ESLsRQIUVvBpnfmUXebzbr5mjUVlQE
od0K8
Date: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 1:52 PM
ETAsAhQP8U8SLfDYIJfbsHpU/VO2ESLsRQIUVvBpnfmUXebzbr5mjUVlQEod0K8>
>I am new to the list and would like to know if there are any list
>menbers in the up state New York area? would very much like to talk to
>them if there is.
I'm not too far up, in Kingston, NY. You may receive another reply from
(can't remember his name) from the Albany area.
What's on your mind?
David Bruner
Mk II
914-340-1626
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GEORGE ALEXANDER <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Joined The Ranks |
"Thompson, Todd" wrote:
>
>
> Any body else interested in a "Kolb convoy" let me know.
>
Todd:
Don't know if we would have anyone join you on the trip, but
you are more than welcome to stop by Newton, NJ (3N5) on
your way. We have a couple of Kolbs. Another point you
may want to consider is Sha-Wan-Ga Valley Airport (8NY7).
Home of South Mountain Ultralights and Ramapo Valley
Ultralight Club (USUA 022). No Kolbs, but a great bunch of
people.
The particulars for these two fields can be seen at:
Newton, NJ http://www.airnav.com/airport/3N5
Sha-Wan-Ga Valley http://www.airnav.com/airport/8NY7
Let me know as your plans take shape.
George Alexander
http://gtalexander.home.att.net (Personal Web Site)
http://southmountainul.com (Web Master)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arnwines <arnwine(at)toad.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Alignment, covering |
Mike, The only thing I would ask you to consider is before you drill the
holes for the pins at the wing front attachment point is consider the fact
that the fusalage is not level. Everything is braced up in the air in the
rear, and this makes the alignment of the two three tabs something to
consider. You aren't drilling a hole level with the ground but level with
the wing. The positioning of the drill on the front tab is a given, but the
alignment of the tab behind it is tougher as the wing tab is blocking it
somewhat. just remember "straight through the tabs", which might not
necessarilly be level.
Hank Arnwine,
>
>On the wing alignment, my only advice is to take your time and do it right.
>Once those holes are drilled on the tabs on the inboard end of the spar, it
>is very tough to go back. I spent a whole Saturday with a couple friends
>setting up my Firestar, building some adjustable stands to hold the wings in
>place, measuring, measuring, and completing the procedure. I used wooden
>H-structures like the Firestar manual suggests. Clamps on the stands allow
>you to raise and lower the leading or trailing edge and the entire wing. It
>is fiddly work but very satisfying when you do your first flight and find
>that the plane stalls straight ahead. When you drill the holes for the pins
>make sure you don't enlarge the hole. My A&P friend had me drill the hole
>and then he used a special attachment from his machine shop to dress the
>insides of the hole. I have no idea what it was called, but for the first
>few months it was WORK to get the pins through those holes(which is a good
>thing).
>
>As far as plumbing and electrical, I didn't do any of that until the plane
>was covered and painted. Of course, you may have more extensive plumbing in
>a Mark III. My thought is always that you will need to do maintenance on
>things eventually, why bury them where you have to tear up your plane to get
>at them?
>
>Bruce E. Harrison
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Sharp [mailto:mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 7:05 PM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Wing Alignment, covering
>
>
>I am at the point of Wing alignment for my Mark III. Any body have any
>tricks or blunders they could share to help a fellow builder do it right the
>
>first time.??
>
>On covering, how much plumbing and electrical should I complete prior to
>covering the fusalage?? I have the Kulzmen strobes, any thoughts on
>mounting/wiring???????
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike (i cut it twice and it's still too short!) Sharp
>
>Mark III
>N6490J
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Alignment, covering |
One other small thing that I haven't seen mentioned yet.................When
I finally got my fuselage levelled both ways, and bolted to the floor, I
made a set of hangers to hold the wing from the ceiling of my building area
that also gave the capability of fine adjustment. Then I stretched
parachute cord TIGHTLY from wingtip to wingtip - both on the leading edges
and the trailing edges. This made it possible to see quickly and easily how
each adjustment affected the overall alignment. When I figured I had it, I
got the retired machinist next door to check my work, then, when we agreed,
we walked away and left it sit overnight. Next day - double and triple
check - then Caaarrreeefffuulllyyyy start drilling holes. Read the book 6
times, and read it some more. Look at the strings, and twang the strings.
Chew on your tongue. Start with a small drill and work up in size. If
something shifts, you could take a round file and make a small correction.
Ream to final size. Am I EVER going to be P.O.ed if this thing
doesn't fly true ! ! !
Finicky Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Arnwines <arnwine(at)toad.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 5:54 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Wing Alignment, covering
>
> Mike, The only thing I would ask you to consider is before you drill the
> holes for the pins at the wing front attachment point is consider the
fact
> that the fusalage is not level. Everything is braced up in the air in the
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Joined The Ranks |
We need more stories like this. Thanks. Vicarious Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Watson <djwatson(at)olg.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 10:47 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Joined The Ranks
>
> To the list.
> Just wanted to tell everyone that I finally finished my training and did
my
> solo in a Rans S-12. Have been chalking up the solo time in the S-12. But
> yesterday was the icing on the cake, I finally got to fly my Firestar!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Joined The Ranks |
Todd,
I'm only 40 miles north of London, Ky, but would like to join the convoy.
Suggestion. make a stop in Stanton, Ky. Airport. It's 3,000 Ft asphalt and
very U/L friendly. Many of the Kolb "quick Kits" are built there and I'm sure
Danny
would be delighted to have you see their work. Just a thought.
Bill Beams
FS #438, 503, Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rod Vacura" <rod.vacura(at)pemstar.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Joined The Ranks |
Just wanted to say that I was extremely inspired by your story "Joined the
Ranks" because yes, I am one of those new-be's out there. I recently purchased
an already built and flying Twinstar that has a 503 and is fully enclosed. It's
the plane I've been dreamin about for the past seven years. I finally got the
"ok" from the wife and bought the plane. Whats even better is the guy I bought
it from, Bruce, is a great friend and also a CFI. Can you believe my luck? Not
only is he teaching me to fly but is also teaching me about the plane as well.
There is a lot of things to learn about since this is my first plane. I have
only logged four hours of dual so far due to work, family, and that darn
wheather. I thought training would be easy but heck no, Bruce keeps me busy all
the time. No time for sight seeing yet, except the other day when we were doing
take-offs and landings, going around the pattern I actually did get a couple of
seconds to look down and see if there were any deer or turkey scrubbin around in
the woods. (We fly off a grass strip on a Minnesota farm). I am now working
towards a private ticket and plan to log as much time in the Kolb possible. I
will probably need to do some time in a certified but to tell you the truth,
planes with steering wheels dont really turn me on. A tail dragger with a stick
flying low and slow over farms and hayfields here in Minnesota is what flying
is all about. The Kolb is definitley a dream come true.
Rod Vacura
Rochester MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rod's twin star |
Rod Vacura wrote:
>
> Just wanted to say that I was extremely inspired by your story "Joined the
> Ranks" because yes, I am one of those new-be's out there. I recently purchased
> an already built and flying Twinstar that has a 503 and is fully enclosed. It's
> the plane I've been dreamin about for the past seven years.
All right Rod. Glad to hear you're learning to fly. We all love to fly. Keep
your
eyes out for other airships though. Turkeys and deer are ok to watch but remember
you can't hear another airplane, you can only see to avoid them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/09/99 |
In response to the gentleman who is considering constructing and selling lots
to his very own airpark, am there. I have a beautify 60 acrea estate, 40
flat, 20 with trees, approx. 2000 feet to roll inone direction and 1600 the
other. We have an rc club with their own runway and a split hanger situation
holding four ultralites flying and two shaping up. It is a little bit of
heaven walking out the back door and going for a ride for an hour or so. I
retired at 40-ish and do not have a lot of money but the fun and pride of
doing all this, is worth everydime you can make. We really enjoy having our
friends fly over and we make a great refueling stop for Floridians lost in
Bama. For anyone who wants to stop or fly over, the coords are: Lat.
32-24-58 North ---- Long 85-17-57 West. We are about 15 miles South of
Opelika/Auburn, Alabama and 20 miles West of Columbus, Ga. All are welcome.
My email is tcowan1917(at)aol.com. Come share our enjoyment on the Flying C's
Planetation. We are on the map. G'day Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <quick503(at)aisp.net> |
| Subject: | Customer Service |
Back in Oct. I posted a couple of letters to the list about poor customer
service at TNK. I tried to be as concise as I could about what improvements
I thought would help the company. I must admit that I was in a slight state
of panic at the thought of not being able to get factory support for the
rebuilding of my MKIII. On Oct 20th I received this email from Bruce
Chesnut. I finally was able to get ahold of him on the phone this week. I
wanted to actually talk to him ( no email ).He is so busy I don't know how
he has time to breath let alone chat. He runs a grocery supply business by
day and dons a Kolb Superman outfit by night. I put a lot of hours in at my
business but I don't know that I could do what he does. Anyway as an update
to my continued exposure to TNK ......... Absolutely no complaints! Every
item I have ordered has come as promised, when promised. The people I have
talked to since in the past month or so have bent over backwards to help me.
They want to see as many Kolbs flying as possible ... new or from downstream
owners. I can say that I am truly impressed (and I will). So credit where
credit is due and I now think these people deserve a lot of credit. Below is
the email Bruce sent to me.
Cheers, Michael
Thanks for your sensible remarks about our company on the Kolb list. Our
goal is to give the best customer service in the industry. We are shipping
kits in 2 or 3 weeks from orders, and that is unheard of in the industry.
We have and continue to make many improvements to the kits, and now have an
engineer to look over all aspects of the designs. It does not mean there is
a problem, but can it be better.
We have had one heck of a summer trying to get the plant up and running.
You may not know, but John Yates who was to run the plant notified me the
day 4 truck loads of machines and inventory showed up at the door of our new
empty plant, that he was not going to take the position. That was the first
of July.
Customer Service is very important, extremely, but getting some thing out
the door was actually on my priority list. That's over now. You will see
what real customer service is now. Our staff is finally complete, with Kris
Jerome at the head. He only started in Sept. The next week the lady that
took Esters place that was trained in Penn, decided she could not take
dealing with some of the customers and quite. Sue, our new best hire is now
trained and doing a great job.
The manuals and plans that you referred to are the product of the Old Kolb
Co. That is about what they have been sending out for the past 10 years. I
do not think the Mark III has been revised since the original print. We are
working on this. I built the company Sling Shot, so I have rewritten the
manual for it with load of pictures. We are keeping it on a disk, and with
each order, print out a new manual with the latest changes. Yes some of
these pictures will be on the web site. We have already put in frequently
ask questions. Because of the errors in plans, and manuals, we get a lot of
phone calls, and emails. John Yates answers the emails from Penn. Surf is
on the phone here in Kentucky about 6 hours a day answering questions. We
will correct this. But this all takes time, and add to this the normal
pressures of business, plus a lot of changes in Kits and trying to get the
Laser on line and another plane on the drawing board has us stretched a
little thin.
I do appreciate good criticism, and we do monitor the list for such as this,
and make adjustments according to comments, but this thing has gotten
completely out of hand. Our web manager who is building a Fire Star and
does demo flights, does make a comment on the list, but as a company we do
not. This list is the builders ground, and we want to keep it that way. We
get a lot of good ideas from it, and we also make sure no one is putting out
bad info that would effect safe flying and good building practice.
Any time you have a question, or comment, or problem let me know,, or Kris
at the plant. I think you will find a lot of customer service.
Sorry to be so wordy, but the last 4 months have been long hours and lots of
strain, I wanted you to know that we listen, and we do care. Down stream or
not, once you own a Kolb, you are our customer and our responsibility to see
to it that you are served. Why not give Kris a call tomorrow and discuss
any problems you are having and lets get them fixed.
Thanks again
Bruce Chesnut
The New Kolb Co.
London, Kentucky
My office # 606 878 6601 ext. 102
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Customer Service |
Mike,
Thank you for writing the message about Bruce and New Kolb. I was glad to
see
someone expound on his merits.
I believe he was more upset with my accident than me. He traded my new gear
legs that would not fit for the correct ones, and gave me lots of help
getting back in the air.
Between him and the quality of products, the New Kolb Co., will soon be the
industry leader.
Bill
FS438, 503, Powerfin
Wilmore, Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
We're EAA chapter 246, Poughkeepsie, NY area, building a Mark III
Give a call if the right neighborhood, Herb
914-297-2449, hgraff(at)aol.com
In a message dated 12/09/1999 8:10:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
brunerd(at)hvi.net writes:
>
> >I am new to the list and would like to know if there are any list
> >menbers in the up state New York area? would very much like to talk to
> >them if there is.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Joining the ranks.......... |
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Miller
Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 11:05 AM
Subject: Joining the ranks..........
> Congrats on "joining the ranks"!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> What a fantastic feeling, soloing in something that you built WITH YOUR
OWN
> HANDS!!!!
>
>
> Jim & Dondi Miller
> Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
> Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
> (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
> Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
> E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Alignment, covering |
FYI
During the alignment of my wing I was having trouble establishing symmetry
of the wing positions. I tracked this down to a skew in the cage. The
diagonals from the wing spar tab to the opposite side lift strut tab at the
wheel strut was at least 0.25 different. After recognizing where the
measurement error occurred I was able to align the wings to my satisfaction.
Ron
>
>One other small thing that I haven't seen mentioned yet.................When
>I finally got my fuselage levelled both ways, and bolted to the floor, I
>made a set of hangers to hold the wing from the ceiling of my building area
>that also gave the capability of fine adjustment. Then I stretched
>parachute cord TIGHTLY from wingtip to wingtip - both on the leading edges
>and the trailing edges. This made it possible to see quickly and easily how
>each adjustment affected the overall alignment. When I figured I had it, I
>got the retired machinist next door to check my work, then, when we agreed,
>we walked away and left it sit overnight. Next day - double and triple
>check - then Caaarrreeefffuulllyyyy start drilling holes. Read the book 6
>times, and read it some more. Look at the strings, and twang the strings.
>Chew on your tongue. Start with a small drill and work up in size. If
>something shifts, you could take a round file and make a small correction.
>Ream to final size. Am I EVER going to be P.O.ed if this thing
>doesn't fly true ! ! !
> Finicky Lar.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Arnwines <arnwine(at)toad.net>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 5:54 PM
>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Wing Alignment, covering
>
>
>>
>> Mike, The only thing I would ask you to consider is before you drill the
>> holes for the pins at the wing front attachment point is consider the
>fact
>> that the fusalage is not level. Everything is braced up in the air in the
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Joined The Ranks |
In a message dated 12/9/99 1:56:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, djwatson(at)olg.com
writes:
<< I didn't mean for this E-mail to be so long, and I hope I havn't bored all
the "Old Salts" on the list with my story, but, I know there must be some
new guys out there who like to read about these first time stories like I
do.
Hope you enjoyed it.
Dennis
>>
Dennis...no apologies please....here is an old fart who LIKED your
story...... GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Joined The Ranks |
In a message dated 12/9/99 5:18:56 PM Eastern Standard Time,
todd.thompson(at)dsl.net writes:
<< looks really easy except the last leg to London.
We're working on this. Our route will depend on who's coming along with us.
If your up to it let me know.
Any body else interested in a "Kolb convoy" let me know. >>
Hey Todd! ....sounds like something I would like to do....I'm just south of
Bristolville in Ohio and could put up some of you at a side yard airstrip
there of 2000 ft ....sounds like a great idea to have a convoy down
there....to the NKC? ....count me in .... I think!
GeoR38
By George! the firestar...
driver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
Where are you guys flying out of near Poughkeepsie?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Foam Spacer For Aelorons During Transit |
>I had another experience with an FAA inspector at the River Falls WI
>Airport-2 inspections in 2 months. He did not have a scale and said I
>better have it weighed to make sure it was 254 lbs. or under. I probably
>should not have admitted I did not know the weight of the plane-it has no
>brakes, points ignition, IVO prop, single carb 447 and very basic
>instruments-so I think it is very close. I bought the plane used in late
>summer and have 20 hours of experience in it. We talked about his
>definition of "congested areas" and he seemed to be outwardly friendly.
> He was on his way to church on a beautiful fall Sunday morning and I was
>enjoying calm skies and clear visibility over the Wisconsin farm country.
>
>Are others examined this closely? What is the fine if I am over 254lbs.?
> Should I find another place to fly from? The grass runway will be a
>hockey arena next fall anyway.
>
>Dale Seitzer
>
There is a form in the back of the U/L Advisory Circular that the FAA has
on ultralights that has a lot of graphs, charts, and things for an A&P to
determine if your vehicle is a legal ultralight. Also the A&P can weigh it,
then he signs the form, and if you just carry it around with you, if you
ever get "ramp checked", you just show the form, and as long as you have
not obviously altered your machine frow the way it is described on the
form, you should be good to go.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Ping" <hping(at)hyperaction.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Joined The Ranks |
Kolbers
The cross country to TNK . Once you enter Ky.
the Bluegrass Ultralight Group ( BUG's) will assist
with anything you'll need, Just let us know.
As for the last leg of the trip being a problem.Lite Speed
Aviation is located at Stanton, a small airport that's
U L friendly,their doing the quick-build kit's
for KOLB.
From Stanton to TNK is 65 air miles
Stanton 3751--8351
TNK 3709--8415
Howard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
| Subject: | Joined The Ranks |
Stanton 3751--8351
TNK 3709--8415
Howard
Howard what it this notation you provided for Stanton and TNK?
thanks
do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Hi Gang:
I have a question pertaining to the use of "x" hinges. Maybe Doc and
Michael Highsmith or anyone with knowledge of them can help me. I mentioned
Doc and Michael because I think both of them use this type hinge. Do you use
these hinges on all the control surfaces or just the ailerons. I'm not to
the point of installing them yet (wish I was) but I like to try and get the
details worked out ahead of time. I really like the concept of the "x"
hinges and they seem to make the surface stay centered relative to the wing
or stab. Also do you use twice as many rivets since you have two more
surfaces or do you reduce the number of rivets per surface.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <joncroke(at)itol.com> |
| Subject: | Dont get me started.... |
Dale,
Isnt that something.... our government official (read OUR money Tax dollars)
appears to be overly concerned about the one nearly intangible aspect that
cant be seen or verified with our eyeballs.... WEIGHT!
Would have loved to hear how he was concerned about your SAFETY in that
Firestar... whether bolts were TIGHT, whether you knew the rules of the road
for air safety...to co-exist with other traffic... whether your engine was
RELIABLE... even ito determine if you were ENJOYING this feat of flight.....
but NO... WEIGHT! not SAFETY! Sounds like he was looking to catch you on
something...
My advice (and note its value proportional to its cost) AVOID this guy like
the plague... fly from somewhere else where you wont be hassled by
short-sighted officials who ruin the percpetion of what the FAA should be
really accomplishing....
Lets not argue about the letter of the law.... we got lawyers for that...
what ever happened to the SPIRIT of the law??? Isnt the science of SAFETY
the supreme concern of pilots and FAA alike?? How does 10, 20 event 50
pounds overweight decrease SAFETY??
OK, Ill sit down and get a drink in me and cool off....
A fellow Wisconsinite (near Greenbay)
Jon / Firestar
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
Sent: Friday, December 10, 1999 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Foam Spacer For Aelorons During Transit
>
>
> >I had another experience with an FAA inspector at the River Falls WI
> >Airport-2 inspections in 2 months. He did not have a scale and said I
> >better have it weighed to make sure it was 254 lbs. or under. I
probably
> >should not have admitted I did not know the weight of the plane-it has no
> >brakes, points ignition, IVO prop, single carb 447 and very basic
> >instruments-so I think it is very close. I bought the plane used in
late
> >summer and have 20 hours of experience in it. We talked about his
> >definition of "congested areas" and he seemed to be outwardly friendly.
> > He was on his way to church on a beautiful fall Sunday morning and I
was
> >enjoying calm skies and clear visibility over the Wisconsin farm country.
> >
> >Are others examined this closely? What is the fine if I am over
254lbs.?
> > Should I find another place to fly from? The grass runway will be
a
> >hockey arena next fall anyway.
> >
> >Dale Seitzer
> >
> There is a form in the back of the U/L Advisory Circular that the FAA has
> on ultralights that has a lot of graphs, charts, and things for an A&P to
> determine if your vehicle is a legal ultralight. Also the A&P can weigh
it,
> then he signs the form, and if you just carry it around with you, if you
> ever get "ramp checked", you just show the form, and as long as you have
> not obviously altered your machine frow the way it is described on the
> form, you should be good to go.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ReHaving an A&P weight form |
Not to encourage public disobedience to the wise and benevolent (malevolent?)
bureaucracy, since your ultralight has no N number or other form of
registration and since I do not think your SS# or Pilots Lic number are
engraved on your forehead (yet) why not tell the pompous official to bug off
or suffer your foot up his wazoo. On the other hand, the law is the law and
you should make every effort to actually be within regulation. I am not sure
what form you guys are talking about--as an A&P I would be reluctant to sign
off such a form because how would I know if the machine I inspected is in the
actual condition it is used in and why should I be responsible for
determining that (for free). I once had a lawyer try to get me to sign of
some work he had done on his aircraft and I refused and I told him when was
the last time he signed his name for free. JR, always willing to give a
fellow aviator a hand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Here we go again. |
>
>Frankly, I think the Inspector did very well with the spirit of the law.
>If he had wanted to stick to the letter of the law, anyone that
>cannot prove that their vehicle conforms to Part 103 is flying
>an illegal AIRPLANE, not Part 103 vehicle, and he could
>have busted Dale's chops on the spot.
>Just retired from 30 years FAA time and glad of it.
>MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>P.S. Yur Kolb ain't fat ur nuthin is it?
>
Show me Kolb that ain't fat.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Part 103 Compliance |
I took my FireFly to a certified scale (local scrape metal buyer) and paid to
have it weighed. I now keep the weight ticket along with the Part 103 AC
103-7 Appendix I used to calculate max speed in a watertight display in my
cockpit. I know this is not exactly what it takes according to the letter of
the law but I believe that it would show a reasonable effort to comply with
the FAA's regulation and may give me a fair chance in court. If you run into
an FAA inspector who is bent on wreaking your fun there is no ultimate
defense (i.e. Bob Hoover) or crash land in a school yard full of lawyer's
kids you will be condemned to the whims of our legal system and that's a part
of our sport.
Happy Flying, Flame now and avoid the rush, Duane the plane in Tallahassee.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ReHaving an A&P weight form |
You are entirely correct. The form is contained within AC 103-7 ,
Appendixes 1-4. Appendix 1,2 & 3 give the data and charts
for making the determination, Appendix 4 is the actual form
that is signed off and carried in the vehicle. It has a space for
a "list of installed instruments and equipment", so if the operator
had blatently added a bunch of obvious stuff that was not on the list...
As far as signing it off for free, the going rate around here was $25,
and typically took about 30 minutes for the mechanic to look the
machine over, look at the scales, fill in the form, and sign his name.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Not to encourage public disobedience to the wise and benevolent (malevolent?)
>bureaucracy, since your ultralight has no N number or other form of
>registration and since I do not think your SS# or Pilots Lic number are
>engraved on your forehead (yet) why not tell the pompous official to bug off
>or suffer your foot up his wazoo. On the other hand, the law is the law and
>you should make every effort to actually be within regulation. I am not sure
>what form you guys are talking about--as an A&P I would be reluctant to sign
>off such a form because how would I know if the machine I inspected is in the
>actual condition it is used in and why should I be responsible for
>determining that (for free). I once had a lawyer try to get me to sign of
>some work he had done on his aircraft and I refused and I told him when was
>the last time he signed his name for free. JR, always willing to give a
>fellow aviator a hand
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Here we go again. |
Possum wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Frankly, I think the Inspector did very well with the spirit of the law.
> >If he had wanted to stick to the letter of the law, anyone that
> >cannot prove that their vehicle conforms to Part 103 is flying
> >an illegal AIRPLANE, not Part 103 vehicle, and he could
> >have busted Dale's chops on the spot.
> >Just retired from 30 years FAA time and glad of it.
> >MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
> >
> >P.S. Yur Kolb ain't fat ur nuthin is it?
> >
>
> Show me Kolb that ain't fat.
>
Kolb published the weight of the Firestar as over 270 pounds.
They never claimed that it made the UL weight.
They DO claim that for the Firefly however.......
ww
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Part 103 Compliance |
MitchMnD(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I took my FireFly to a certified scale (local scrape metal buyer) and paid to
> have it weighed. I now keep the weight ticket along with the Part 103 AC
> 103-7 Appendix I used to calculate max speed in a watertight display in my
> cockpit.
SNIP
What did it weigh?
Sounds like it made the 254...
It this with a 447?
Thanks,
ww
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't get me started |
Dale and others,
This is surprising to see FAA enforcement or
harrassment, whatever you may want to call it. It is
difficult to know the best response to make at the
time an FAA guy might come around ...torn between
telling him to go do something more important OR be
nice so he won't bust you. The good news for us
fatties is that a) the UL safety record is pretty good
b) FAA inspections are nearly unheard of.
On the 'spirit of the law' issue, weight IS an
important safety factor, and the fact that it cannot
be readily "seen" has killed a lot of pilots of all
ratings. The point still tho is: why is the FAA guy
stopping on his way to church to bother you? I can
see it if it is a busy airport or if it is possibly
densely populated (congested) in your flying location.
Whether it is or not, your very best move IMO is to
fly somewhere else. You cannot win on a weight
technicality, and this FAA person has started with
that as The Issue. Also, if your flying area really
is sparsely populated and ULers in your area haven't
annoyed somebody by a dumb act, I think it could be
worthwhile to talk to this FAA guy as a member of a
large group (such as a USUA club). The discussion
would need to avoid "weight", focus on safety, and
bring up the need to safety inspect all the GA
aircraft there along with the ULs ...descrimination
ain't fair you know. The GA guys don't want to come
under a magnifying glass either, and the result is the
possibilty of a negotiated UL policy at that airport.
It is a ton of politics and work tho.
As you can see, the best tactic is to move over to the
next block and just safely enjoy your airplane
(vehicle).
-Ben Ransom
--- Dale Seitzer wrote:
>
>
> I had another experience with an FAA inspector at
> the River Falls WI
> Airport-2 inspections in 2 months. He did not have
> a scale and said I
> better have it weighed to make sure it was 254 lbs.
> or under. I probably
>
> Dale Seitzer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ReHaving an A&P weight form |
Richard, as a mech I knew that, and was just asking a retorical
question. Don't want to start a thread/discussion/flaming on 103s. bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Part 103 Compliance |
I do not know for sure where the 254.5 lb weight limit was agreed upon but I
suspect that the FAA types were very hopeful that machines could not be built
to comply with that limit and therefore would have to register as
airplanes--carrot dangling. I am sure also somewhere (deep within the
bureaucratic machine where the wise men live) there has been sent up a great
cry and much wailing and gnashing of teeth and hand wringing dismayed at the
existence of completely legal ultralights like the Firefly, Kitfox lite etc.
I personally would like to see the limit increased by 100 lbs, top speed
raise to 80MPH, still single seat, 12 gallons fuel useable for adequate 30
min reserves, stall speed less than 30 MPH, exclusive of BRS chutes etc. This
would allow a more rugged and durable airframe (safer) and would allow brakes
adequate tires, inertia safety reels for five point harnesses,
strobes/anti-collision lighting and a battery for electric starters etc. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Part 103 Compliance |
Well Mike I like to speculate, and while it is true that ultralighters came
up with the number with coaching from the FAA, I am of the mindset that the
FAA jumped on it still with the belief that no practical flying machine could
be built to that limit. You have noticed some feet dragging whenever attempts
to change the regulation come up. I further suspect that if early
ultralighters had said 500 lbs, top speed 120, 20 gallons fuel the FAA would
have said NO. Therefore I stay with what I said. In the meantime those people
flying illegal aircraft without pilots licenses should then, according to
Mike, hang the "Early Ultralighters" or at least moon them for their lack of
foresight. JR, not an ultralighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cjc0751(at)banet.net |
| Subject: | Re: Part 103 Compliance |
Mike Brown wrote:
> Beechcraft driver that rear-ended me in mid-air while I
> > was on approach three years ago, because it was dangerous to set a
> > "right of way" precedent.
>
> > Back to lurk
whoa! come back here!
rear-ended? REAR_ENDED?
And what is that about precedents?
Right of way stuff is already FAR's, as I'm sure you know.
They ignored the FAR or what?
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Hi Guys & Gals?
Just spent the day installing the Jabiru 2200 on my Kolb with the
great help from Pete Kortje of Great Lake Light Planes. If anyone is
thinking of doing this, remember, the engine must be ordered with the
oil plug on the side. The standard engine has the oil plug on the
bottom and thats right over the main tube of the Kolb. YOU CAN'T DRAIN
THE OIL. Pete caught this when I ordered my engine through him because
he made the mount with measurements from a Kolb he had built. There is
one person with a Kolb Mark 111 who has this problem. Let you know how
is works out. It was dark by the time we got it started, talk about a
sweet sounding engine,wow!!
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Render" <drender(at)wpcusrgrp.org> |
On dwg. 10, I spilt Coor's coffee on the top right hand corner of the
dwg. and can't read the required rivet size where it says " note - hinge
rivets are 1\8" x1\8" except at inboard end, in region of the horns.
Here 1\8" x 1\?" rivets must be used". Can someone tell me the length.
Thanks
Doug Render
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Part 103 Compliance |
Answers to WW's questions on my FireFly's weight. It is powered by a single
carb. 447. Yes she made the 254.5 with about six pounds to spare but it cost
me some effort. The paint is so thin you can see light through it. I used the
chemical additve to resist UV and skipped the aluminum sun block coat. My
plane only sees the sun when we are flying. I junked all the klunky BRS
mounting hardware and designed, built and tested my own which was about 4
pounds lighter. I can wear my radio and GPS so they are not part of the
plane. I later added bigger wheels and longer windshield. The increased
weight ought to put me right on the 254 limit. everything else is minimum,
stock, per the drawings/manual. Duane the plane in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't get me started |
> Dale and others,
> This is surprising to see FAA enforcement or
> harrassment, whatever you may want to call it. It is
> difficult to know the best response to make at the
> time an FAA guy might come around ...torn between
> telling him to go do something more important OR be
> nice so he won't bust you.
Well, here's the wonderful side of this equation....at a recent fly-in
at Fairview, OK, there were some comments by attendees that an
FAA type was making the rounds asking for papers from the
experimental, UL, and GA types. Then it turns out that I happen
into a conversation between several pilots with another individual
who, upon questioning, produces an FAA badge, and says he was
sent to the fly-in SPECIFICALLY by the local FSDO to bust the
chops of the other FAA guy making a pest of himself.
Ain't life grand!!!!
J.Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rivet length |
If you're building a Mk III, the rivet length is 1/4". Big
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Render <drender(at)wpcusrgrp.org>
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 1999 7:34 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: rivet length
>
> On dwg. 10, I spilt Coor's coffee on the top right hand corner of the
> dwg. and can't read the required rivet size where it says " note - hinge
> rivets are 1\8" x1\8" except at inboard end, in region of the horns.
> Here 1\8" x 1\?" rivets must be used". Can someone tell me the length.
>
> Thanks
> Doug Render
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Don't get me started |
Wish our FSDO was like that. At Arlington this year, I was there full
time working the Quicksilver booth, and I watched the FAA cruising
around like sharks sniffing for blood. Was really sad to watch the
people we hire do this. They only got one guy. He was saying the "Ride"
word, so he had it coming. Four GA plane crashes on the other side of
the field(all fatals)and here they are in the U/L area bothering the
safest people on the airport.
Does this make you wonder, or what?
Mike
> Well, here's the wonderful side of this equation....at a recent fly-in
> at Fairview, OK, there were some comments by attendees that an
> FAA type was making the rounds asking for papers from the
> experimental, UL, and GA types. Then it turns out that I happen
> into a conversation between several pilots with another individual
> who, upon questioning, produces an FAA badge, and says he was
> sent to the fly-in SPECIFICALLY by the local FSDO to bust the
> chops of the other FAA guy making a pest of himself.
>
> Ain't life grand!!!!
>
> J.Baker
>
________________________________________________________________________________
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: List Support Bidding Closed... |
Dear Listers,
If you made a winning bid on one of the items generously donated by Steven
DiNieri (capsteve(at)wzrd.com) and Archie (archie97(at)earthlink.net) this year,
then you should have already received an email message from me with
instructions on how to obtain each of your items. You will be receiving a
separate email for each item.
I want to thank everyone that sent in a bid, and especially Steven and
Archie for their generous contribution donation this year, as well as those
that made the winning high bids!
Thanks again to everyone that made a Contribution this year to support the
Lists. The LOC #2 will be coming out at the end of the month, and there
will be quite a few additional contributors on it!
Thank you to one and all!
Best regards
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. R. Rodebush" <JRODEBUSH(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Hello everyone,
I have been following the list for sometime; it seems to be a great
resource!
I ordered a Mark III wing kit at the Kolb fly-in. Received the ribs&
fittings within a few weeks but still waiting for the "big tube". Seems I
was caught in the middle of the manufacturing transfer from Pennsylvania to
Kentucky. Hopefully it will arrive by Christmas.
If there are any builders/flyers in the Cincinnati area let me know. Do
not archive.
Rex Rodebush
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim T99" <townsend(at)webound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru Engine |
Dallas,
Thanks for selling me your 582. I feel you gave me a great deal and have
made it possable for me to have it flying by spring. I enjoyed talking
with you and looking over your plane and new engine. You sure have
a nice set up there. Good luck.
Our Best
Tim T.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 11, 1999 7:36 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Jabiru Engine
>
> Hi Guys & Gals?
> Just spent the day installing the Jabiru 2200 on my Kolb with the
> great help from Pete Kortje of Great Lake Light Planes. If anyone is
> thinking of doing this, remember, the engine must be ordered with the
> oil plug on the side. The standard engine has the oil plug on the
> bottom and thats right over the main tube of the Kolb. YOU CAN'T DRAIN
> THE OIL. Pete caught this when I ordered my engine through him because
> he made the mount with measurements from a Kolb he had built. There is
> one person with a Kolb Mark 111 who has this problem. Let you know how
> is works out. It was dark by the time we got it started, talk about a
> sweet sounding engine,wow!!
> Dallas Shepherd
> Norfork, Arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Differential brakes |
I don't care for the heal brakes in my Kolb Firestar. I am working on a
differential brake that mounts on the stick for my Firestar.
DEAR VIC: I ALSO DON'T CARE FOR THE HEEL BRAKES, THEY CONTRIBUTED TO A VERY
November 18, 1999 - December 12, 1999
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bu