Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bv
December 12, 1999 - January 05, 2000
EXPENSIVE PROBLEM DUE TO MY BIG FEET GETTING HUNG UP ON THEM RATHER THAN
BEING USEFUL TO RUDDER IMPUT. LET ME KNOW IF YOU COME UP WITH A WORKING
SOLUTION THAT MAINTAINS DIFFERENTIAL BRAKING.
THANKS: FRANK HODSON, OXFORD ME / FSII N6399J
fwhodson@megalink.net http://www.megalink.net/~fwhodson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
kolbers,
hello list, yesterday i bought my kolb ultrastar ..... When i
brought it home i was looking at the boom and i was looking for some dents or
dings on it...
and i did theres about a 1/2 deep ding betwean the wing mounts....."this has
to be replaced" anyway i was just wondering if anyone has a 5inch by 14 foot
boom for sale if so how much ?
sincerly,
Erik H Baxter
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/12/99 8:48:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
JRODEBUSH(at)cinci.rr.com writes:
<< If there are any builders/flyers in the Cincinnati area let me know. Do
not archive.
Rex Rodebush >>
Rex, I'm not very near Cincinnati, but I am in Ohio....Akron as a matter of
fact and fly my Firestar in Warren during the "warm" months.....hope to meet
you sometime. GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Differential brakes |
No need to shout. Quiet Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank & Winnie Hodson <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 7:24 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Differential brakes
>
>
> I don't care for the heal brakes in my Kolb Firestar. I am working on a
>
> differential brake that mounts on the stick for my Firestar.
>
> DEAR VIC: I ALSO DON'T CARE FOR THE HEEL BRAKES, THEY CONTRIBUTED TO A
VERY
> EXPENSIVE PROBLEM DUE TO MY BIG FEET GETTING HUNG UP ON THEM RATHER THAN
> BEING USEFUL TO RUDDER IMPUT. LET ME KNOW IF YOU COME UP WITH A WORKING
> SOLUTION THAT MAINTAINS DIFFERENTIAL BRAKING.
>
> THANKS: FRANK HODSON, OXFORD ME / FSII N6399J
>
>
> fwhodson@megalink.net http://www.megalink.net/~fwhodson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gascolator and auto fuel |
Dear list,
I was about to order a gascolator for my fuel system from the "new" Aircraft
Spruce Catalog when I ran into a problem. It seems they have added a line in
the description that reads "Not for use with auto fuel". That wasn't in the
old catalog that I remember. I was wondering if any of you knew why they
might have added that little disclaimer. The gascolator uses a Buna-N
gasket. I'm guessing that this gasket might not be compatible with methanol
and ethanol additives that some corn growing states are promoting.
Any help would be appreciated,
John Bickham
Mark III
M3-308 (N308JB reserved)
St. Francisville, LA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | StOrMiN3(at)aol.com |
list,
Hello list, I was wondering what size are the booms on the newer
kolbs ? could i go with a 4 ich boom ?would that be strong anough ?
ploease help me with this.
Sincerly ,
Erik H Baxter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Worthington" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
In regards to TNK service.
Sue is a real sweet-heart. I have challenged her on more than one occasion
lately and she came thought with flying colors. TNK - give her a raise so
she doesn't get another job.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Mk III tailboom is 6", with a .058" wall. I believe the single seaters use
a 5" boom. Anyone ?? I don't think - in fact, I'm real sure - I wouldn't
go any smaller. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <StOrMiN3(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 7:08 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: kolbs
>
> list,
>
> Hello list, I was wondering what size are the booms on the newer
> kolbs ? could i go with a 4 ich boom ?would that be strong anough ?
> ploease help me with this.
>
> Sincerly ,
>
> Erik H Baxter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Here we go again. Seems like I'm always after you guys for something these
days. When I built my wing gap center section about 2 1/2 yrs. ago, I
peeled back the protective paper on the lexan far enough to drill and rivet
it all together, and left the rest of the paper on, to protect the plastic
from scratches, etc. Now, after all that time in the Palm Springs sun, it's
time to remove the paper. Uh-oh ! ! ! The paper is just about
disintegrated, and won't peel off; it just crumbles. Scratching with a
thumbnail is tedious, and fairly ineffective. How can I remove that stuff
without scratching, or melting the plastic ?? P.O.'ed Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
Try cleaning the paper off the Lexan with "Citra-Sol". It loosens the glue
and does not harm the
plastic. Try small area first.
Bill Beams
FS, 503, powerfin
Wilmore, Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
>
> Here we go again. Seems like I'm always after you guys for something these
> days. When I built my wing gap center section about 2 1/2 yrs. ago, I
> peeled back the protective paper on the lexan far enough to drill and rivet
> it all together, and left the rest of the paper on, to protect the plastic
> from scratches, etc. Now, after all that time in the Palm Springs sun, it's
> time to remove the paper. Uh-oh ! ! ! The paper is just about
> disintegrated, and won't peel off; it just crumbles. Scratching with a
> thumbnail is tedious, and fairly ineffective. How can I remove that stuff
> without scratching, or melting the plastic ?? P.O.'ed Lar.
I suggest alcohol, preferably ETOH. Many, if not most, adhesives of that
type are alcohol based. I know that this works well on standard
plexiglas as I had to remove stubborn paper for my Stits Playmate.
Problem is alcohol tends to evaporate BEFORE it can really work its job
on the adhesive. This trick helps. Liberaly brush LOTS of ETOH on the
surface, then quickly cover it with an impervious thin film. Don't
remember what I used, but SaranWrap, thin film polyethylene, or
aluminum foil come to mine. Would probably try the first, since it has
cling properties and conforming properties and the closer it gets to the
surface, the more it will retard evaporation. Will probably have to use
several cycles of this process.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
Thompson, Todd wrote:
>
>
> MEK works very well on taking off the paper layer...
>
> Of course MEK will destroy the lexan.
>
> TRy a heat gun to soften the plastic coating layer of the paper. Who knows,
> maybe it will work.
Do NOT recommend a heat gun! See my reply recommending ETOH.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Muralmaker(at)aol.com |
Removing the old paper from Lexan? Try De-natured Alcohol and a soft cloth.
This should not melt the Lexan! Try a small, out-of-the-way spot as a test.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Hey Big Lar! Use some WD-40--or plain kero to loosen the paper&glue on
the plastic. Try a small spot first. Pls note: I'm usually rong. bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Hair drier only good if it has hair on it. I use a pencil-sized one on
my hair (singular) bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
ggleiter(at)minn.net wrote:
>
>
> Larry Bourne wrote:
> >
> >
> > Here we go again. Seems like I'm always after you guys for something these
> > days. When I built my wing gap center section about 2 1/2 yrs. ago, I
> > peeled back the protective paper on the lexan far enough to drill and rivet
> > it all together, and left the rest of the paper on, to protect the plastic
> > from scratches, etc. Now, after all that time in the Palm Springs sun, it's
> > time to remove the paper. Uh-oh ! ! ! The paper is just about
> > disintegrated, and won't peel off; it just crumbles. Scratching with a
> > thumbnail is tedious, and fairly ineffective. How can I remove that stuff
> > without scratching, or melting the plastic ?? P.O.'ed Lar.
>
> I suggest alcohol, preferably ETOH. Many, if not most, adhesives of that
> type are alcohol based. I know that this works well on standard
> plexiglas as I had to remove stubborn paper for my Stits Playmate.
> Problem is alcohol tends to evaporate BEFORE it can really work its job
> on the adhesive. This trick helps. Liberaly brush LOTS of ETOH on the
> surface, then quickly cover it with an impervious thin film. Don't
> remember what I used, but SaranWrap, thin film polyethylene, or
> aluminum foil come to mine. Would probably try the first, since it has
> cling properties and conforming properties and the closer it gets to the
> surface, the more it will retard evaporation. Will probably have to use
> several cycles of this process.
>
> gil leiter
Thinking about it further, I believe I also put a piece of absorbent
cloth over the paper and thoroughly saturated it prior to applying the
vapor blocking cover. Do not be impatiant and attempt to remove paper
too soon - let it soak! Adhesive backed paper that has been on for a
significant time does take a fair time to soften up. After the paper
has been removed, it will probably necessary to do a final clean up with
a SOFT cloth saturated with ETOH and work over the surface to remove the
final residue of adhesive.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
Larry Bourne wrote:
How can I remove that stuff
> without scratching, or melting the plastic ?? P.O.'ed Lar.
>
Plain ol mineral spirts. Paint thinner. Soak the paper w/a wet rag and
let it rehydrate a while.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
Use the paint thinner for cryin out loud. It WILL NOT hurt the Lexan.
Lets dont make everything harder than it has to be.
Mineral spirts
Been there, still do it.
Mike
Olympic U/L
Thompson, Todd wrote:
>
>
> OOPS! Guess a heat gun is not the way to go. SO somebody tell me why? HOw
> about a hair dryer?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
>
>list,
>
> Hello list, I was wondering what size are the booms on the newer
>kolbs ? could i go with a 4 ich boom ?would that be strong anough ?
>ploease help me with this.
>
> Sincerly ,
>
> Erik H Baxter
>
I had a 4" boom an my Flyer. I didn't notice anything wrong with it as I
was flying but looking at home movies of it in the air was kind of scary. My
twinstar uses a 5" tube.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
>
>kolbers,
>
>
> hello list, yesterday i bought my kolb ultrastar ..... When i
>brought it home i was looking at the boom and i was looking for some dents or
>dings on it...
>and i did theres about a 1/2 deep ding betwean the wing mounts....."this has
>to be replaced" anyway i was just wondering if anyone has a 5inch by 14 foot
>boom for sale if so how much ?
>
> sincerly,
>
> Erik H Baxter
>
Why do you think it has to be replaced? I may be thinking of the wrong
area but I don't think there is a lot of stress in that area as compared to
the rest of the boom. Perhaps Dennis could answer this one better. Look for
irrigation pipe if you feel the need to replace the tube.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
Erik,
You definitely want to stay with the 5" 6061 T-6 Aluminum tube. As it
is, the 5" flexes quite a bit, also, it would not be practical to adapt the
4". You have the best Kolb there is when it comes to just pure flying.
Restore her to factory specs & she'll serve you well.
...Richard S
StOrMiN3(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> list,
>
> Hello list, I was wondering what size are the booms on the newer
> kolbs ? could i go with a 4 ich boom ?would that be strong anough ?
> ploease help me with this.
>
> Sincerly ,
>
> Erik H Baxter
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Gordon:
At this time I have the engine mounted on a Mark 3 and have it
running, but haven't static tested it or finished up all the things I
have to do before I fly with it. I purchased the engine through Great
Lakes Light Planes(Pete Kortje) and the price was $8950.00, plus a prop
extension hub at $175.00. I have a Warp Drive Prop recommended by Pete
and an EIS engine monitor for the Jabiru. I have been busy with other
things and haven't gotten back to the barn to start putting it all back
together. Will let everyone know what happens when i get flying. GLLP
made an engine mount for the Mark 3, and it fit fine. If ;you are
putting a Jabiru on a Kolb,get the oil plug on the side. This engine is
quiet and has a sweet sound. GLLP phone is 920-757-0871. Lots of help,
lots of information, and he did everything he said he would, and more.
Really went out of his way, all the way to Arkansas.
Dallas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim O'Day" <Jim-ODay(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Feed Back Request |
Hello Kolb List
Good news. My wife said that she would buy me a Kolb for Christmas. What a
woman!
My specs: I want a tandem style airplane. I want brakes and other frills so
I will license the plane. I have tools, shop and building skills. I have a
pilots licence and fly a multi engine plane and log 200 hours per year. I
love all kinds of airplanes. I have wanted to fly an ultralight for a long
time and feel the Kolb design is the best of the fleet.
With my type of spousal cooperation, I need to finish the plane and not let
it clutter up my shop like my RV-4 has. So, considering the shortage of
spare time I have with business demands, I feel that the Quick Build option
is my best choice.
My questions to you:
1. Has anyone done the Quick Build option and if so, how much time does it
take to complete? Is it really a Quick Build?
2. The Fire Star has been my 1st choice but what about the Sling Shot? The
say the SS is for transitioning GA pilots, what does this mean?
3. A used plane would speed up the process for me; all my GA planes have
been used after all. What are the drawbacks to a used Kolb?
My primary question is #1, any feed back on the other two would be
appreciated too.
Thank you.
Jim ODay
jim-oday(at)excite.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cjc0751(at)banet.net |
| Subject: | Re: Feed Back Request |
Jim O'Day wrote:
> 1. Has anyone done the Quick Build
We got the wing ribs. It makes no sense not to get the preformed ribs
unless you have some kind of thing where you have to do everything yourself.
> 2. The Fire Star has been my 1st choice but what about the Sling Shot? The
> say the SS is for transitioning GA pilots, what does this mean?
don't know but it sounds like fun.
> 3. ...What are the drawbacks to a used Kolb?
If it's registered, no repairman's certificate.
You have to build 51% to get repairman's certificate.
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Feed Back Request |
>3. A used plane would speed up the process for me; all my GA planes have
>been used after all. What are the drawbacks to a used Kolb?
>
>
You wouldn't have the joy and sense of accomplishment of building it yourself.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Thanks to ALMOST all who replied to my Lexan problem. And here I thought we
>was friends, Todd. Boy, I'm glad Possum didn't reply to that, don't think
>it would fit.
>
> I suggest alcohol, preferably ETOH. Many, if not most, adhesives of that
> type are alcohol based. I know that this works well on standard
> plexiglas as I had to remove stubborn paper for my Stits Playmate.
> gil leiter
I also suggest alcohol, as I had a similar problem with my first Kolb,
peeled back the protective paper on the lexan, and couldn't remove the dam
stuff.
Try this simple recipe, I can guarantee it worked for me.
2 fine horsehair brushes
1 or 2 quarts rum
1 cup butter
3 cups baking powder
3 cups feather fill-primer
1 tsp MEK
1 tsp lemon juice
2 large eggs
2 cups dried fruit (citrus-ie. oranges etc.)
1 tsp sugar
Before you start, sample rum to check quality. Now go to it! Select a
large mixing bowl, measuring cup, etc. Check the rum again--it must be
just right. To be sure the rum is of the highest quality, pour one level
cup into a glass and drink it quickly. Repeat. Now, with an electric
mixer, beat one cup of butter along with 1 tsp of MEK in a large, fluffy
bowl. Add one seaspoon of thugar and beat again. Meanwhile, make sure the
rum is of the finest quality. Drink another glass. Let stand 10 minutes:
repeat. Open second quart if necessary. Add 2 arge leggs, 1 teaspoon
paking bowder, 2 cups fried druit, and beat till high. If druit get stuck
in beaters, just pry it loose with a drewscriver. Sample rum to check for
toxicistricy. Next sift 3 cups of baking soda or feather fill (it
doessn't really matter), sapling the rum as you work. Sift pint of
lemmon juice as you fold in chopped butter and strained fruit. Add one
bablespoon of brown sugar, or whatever color you can find. Wix well, till
thoroughly brownish.. Now, liberaly brush the whole mess on the patective
proper & wrap in sran wrap. Check the rum again and bo to bed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Yah, see, I asked for it all right. Howdy Poss ! ! ! Do not
Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Lexan
>
> >
> >Thanks to ALMOST all who replied to my Lexan problem. And here I thought
we
> >was friends, Todd. Boy, I'm glad Possum didn't reply to that, don't
think
> >it would fit.
>
> >
> > I suggest alcohol, preferably ETOH. Many, if not most, adhesives of that
> > type are alcohol based. I know that this works well on standard
> > plexiglas as I had to remove stubborn paper for my Stits Playmate.
> > gil leiter
>
>
> I also suggest alcohol, as I had a similar problem with my first Kolb,
> peeled back the protective paper on the lexan, and couldn't remove the dam
> stuff.
> Try this simple recipe, I can guarantee it worked for me.
>
> 2 fine horsehair brushes
> 1 or 2 quarts rum
> 1 cup butter
> 3 cups baking powder
> 3 cups feather fill-primer
> 1 tsp MEK
> 1 tsp lemon juice
> 2 large eggs
> 2 cups dried fruit (citrus-ie. oranges etc.)
> 1 tsp sugar
>
> Before you start, sample rum to check quality. Now go to it! Select a
> large mixing bowl, measuring cup, etc. Check the rum again--it must be
> just right. To be sure the rum is of the highest quality, pour one level
> cup into a glass and drink it quickly. Repeat. Now, with an electric
> mixer, beat one cup of butter along with 1 tsp of MEK in a large, fluffy
> bowl. Add one seaspoon of thugar and beat again. Meanwhile, make sure
the
> rum is of the finest quality. Drink another glass. Let stand 10 minutes:
> repeat. Open second quart if necessary. Add 2 arge leggs, 1 teaspoon
> paking bowder, 2 cups fried druit, and beat till high. If druit get stuck
> in beaters, just pry it loose with a drewscriver. Sample rum to check for
> toxicistricy. Next sift 3 cups of baking soda or feather fill (it
> doessn't really matter), sapling the rum as you work. Sift pint of
> lemmon juice as you fold in chopped butter and strained fruit. Add one
> bablespoon of brown sugar, or whatever color you can find. Wix well, till
> thoroughly brownish.. Now, liberaly brush the whole mess on the patective
> proper & wrap in sran wrap. Check the rum again and bo to bed.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Feed Back Request |
I'm not too sure about the rest of the quick build, but the $200.00 for the
factory built ribs is among the best money I ever spent. THAT would have
been tedious, for sure. Chuck's point about the repairman certificate is
very well taken. It's worth a lot. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim O'Day <Jim-ODay(at)excite.com>
Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 5:35 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Feed Back Request
>
> Hello Kolb List
>
> Good news. My wife said that she would buy me a Kolb for Christmas. What
a
> woman!
>
> My specs: I want a tandem style airplane. I want brakes and other frills
so
> I will license the plane. I have tools, shop and building skills. I have
a
> pilots licence and fly a multi engine plane and log 200 hours per year. I
> love all kinds of airplanes. I have wanted to fly an ultralight for a
long
> time and feel the Kolb design is the best of the fleet.
>
> With my type of spousal cooperation, I need to finish the plane and not
let
> it clutter up my shop like my RV-4 has. So, considering the shortage of
> spare time I have with business demands, I feel that the Quick Build
option
> is my best choice.
>
> My questions to you:
> 1. Has anyone done the Quick Build option and if so, how much time does it
> take to complete? Is it really a Quick Build?
> 2. The Fire Star has been my 1st choice but what about the Sling Shot?
The
> say the SS is for transitioning GA pilots, what does this mean?
> 3. A used plane would speed up the process for me; all my GA planes have
> been used after all. What are the drawbacks to a used Kolb?
>
> My primary question is #1, any feed back on the other two would be
> appreciated too.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Jim ODay
> jim-oday(at)excite.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
Thats odd I have often used a similar formula for this process but here
in california we substitute tequila for the rum and sometimes avocados
are involved but I can't really say for sure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard neilsen" <NEILSENR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Feed Back Request |
<<<< 2. The Fire Star has been my 1st choice but what about the Sling Shot? The
say the SS is for transitioning GA pilots, what does this mean?>>>>
The reason the SS is a good plane for transitioning GA pilots is that it has less
drag than the other models and it flies faster. GA pilots are accustom to planes
that have a lot of inertia combined with low drag and have been trained
to start your flair almost 200' agl. In most ultralight/light planes you start
you flair around 2-10' AGL depending on speed flaps etc. I had a experience with
my MKIII were I was doing an approach at 45- 50 mph with full flaps and idle
power, the stabilized decent angle is close to 45 degrees. When I got to 50'
the closer rate to ground level was unbelievable. My GA experience kicked in
and I started my flar, in no time the stick was warning of a stall. I nosed down
and flaired at 1', landing hard which bent my landing gear.
Also look at the empty weight as apposed to gross weight most planes have a finished
weight much higher than advertised especially if you ar considering a 4
stroke engine.
Richard Neilsen
VW powered MKIII 20Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re:differential brake |
>>>>> DEAR VIC: I ALSO DON'T CARE FOR THE HEEL BRAKES,
i havent got to ltry things out yet,,, stil mounting the engine.
when i have sat in the mark 3 the heal brakes dont seem natural.
i intent to try and if i am not happy i was thinking about mounting
a hinge and a small plate on the top of the rudder and actuate the
brakes with a small bellcrank. havent designed it yet only a
picture in my mind.
b young forever.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re:differential brake |
Hi all
At first the heel brakes seem a little awkward, but you get used to them in
no time. I have the Matco hydra lock brakes on my MK III. I sometimes wish
the brake peddles were a little longer which would give me more leverage and
allow me to brake harder, but then I would probably skin up the nose or
something. I have 180 hours of trouble free flying my 912 MK III in the
last two years. I fly out of controlled paved airports, grass strips and
hayfields and have yet to bend the landing gear. The little tail wheel is
about wore out and I replaced the stator on the 912 as per Rotax and I had
an exhaust tube crake a couple of times, but otherwise I fly fly fly,
usually with two people. Someone was asking about the amount of time to
build. I got the quick build kit and worked about full time from May 97
till October 97 (450 hrs. aprox.)
Happy Holidays!
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of b young
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 8:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re:differential brake
>>>>> DEAR VIC: I ALSO DON'T CARE FOR THE HEEL BRAKES,
i havent got to ltry things out yet,,, stil mounting the engine.
when i have sat in the mark 3 the heal brakes dont seem natural.
i intent to try and if i am not happy i was thinking about mounting
a hinge and a small plate on the top of the rudder and actuate the
brakes with a small bellcrank. havent designed it yet only a
picture in my mind.
b young forever.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAllphin(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dont get me started.... |
Please! Please! Tell me who to get off of this list Please!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dont get me started.... |
>
> Please! Please! Tell me who to get off of this list Please!
Well, try this:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re:differential brake |
The rudder pedals in the Kolbs are a lot like the Fergy. I mounted mine with
hinges on the pedals, but I hung them down so to accuate them as I turned
right and left. They work so well I do not think about them as I turn on the
ground because they automaticlly engage the break on the wheel that needs
it. As far as straight forward goes it takes a little preparation to get
your feet in the right position but once you do, that work great also. I
have no drawings and I have no pictures but I do have breaks on both sides
of the cockpit that work egually well. With over 1200 landings, I am still
on the first set of expanding break shoes. I'll probably go for another 500
before I have to replace them.
I say all this because I would like someone else to try this set up so it
can be improved on. Two reasons: It's cheap and uncomplicated.
Most parts are found locally. My kind of set up.
Firehawk
>From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Re:differential brake
>Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:00:28 -0700
>
>
> >>>>> DEAR VIC: I ALSO DON'T CARE FOR THE HEEL BRAKES,
>
>i havent got to ltry things out yet,,, stil mounting the engine.
>when i have sat in the mark 3 the heal brakes dont seem natural.
>i intent to try and if i am not happy i was thinking about mounting
>a hinge and a small plate on the top of the rudder and actuate the
>brakes with a small bellcrank. havent designed it yet only a
>picture in my mind.
>
>b young forever.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:differential brake |
The main purpose of my hand lever operated brakes is to keep her still while
I am getting on board. The local CFI told me I did not need brakes. I found
that he was very wrong after several Roy Rogers type cockpit entrys. I can
pull the starter rope from in the cockpit but I'm afraid my hernias would pop
out like pea coat sleeves. The need for brakes was confirmed when I met a
giant Stearman (he had no radio) coming around the corner of the hangars. If
you can't come up with differential brakes plain old Ford mechanical type are
better than none. Duane the plane in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re:differential brake |
Firehawk,
I don't know what kind of brakes you have and am
interested. All I can tell so far is that they are
hinged down from the pedal. But ...
- where is the cable stop? on the floor pan?
- what do you use for the brakes themselves (i.e.
which manufacturer? drum or ?)
Thanks,
-Ben "brakes rev 3" Ransom
--- michael highsmith wrote:
>
>
> The rudder pedals in the Kolbs are a lot like the
> Fergy. I mounted mine with
> hinges on the pedals, but I hung them down so to
> accuate them as I turned
> right and left. They work so well I do not think
> about them as I turn on the
> ground because they automaticlly engage the break on
> the wheel that needs
> it. As far as straight forward goes it takes a
> little preparation to get
> your feet in the right position but once you do,
> that work great also. I
> have no drawings and I have no pictures but I do
> have breaks on both sides
> of the cockpit that work egually well. With over
> 1200 landings, I am still
> on the first set of expanding break shoes. I'll
> probably go for another 500
> before I have to replace them.
> I say all this because I would like someone else to
> try this set up so it
> can be improved on. Two reasons: It's cheap and
> uncomplicated.
> Most parts are found locally. My kind of set up.
> Firehawk
>
>
> >From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
> >Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Kolb-List: Re:differential brake
> >Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:00:28 -0700
> >
>
> >
> > >>>>> DEAR VIC: I ALSO DON'T CARE FOR THE HEEL
> BRAKES,
> >
> >i havent got to ltry things out yet,,, stil
> mounting the engine.
> >when i have sat in the mark 3 the heal brakes dont
> seem natural.
> >i intent to try and if i am not happy i was
> thinking about mounting
> >a hinge and a small plate on the top of the rudder
> and actuate the
> >brakes with a small bellcrank. havent designed it
> yet only a
> >picture in my mind.
> >
> >b young forever.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>
> Settlement...
> http://www.matronics.com/jpi.html
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re:differential brake |
Duane, didn't you ever read of my method for starting and getting into
my FF? Will send off line so as to not bother the big boys and their
parking brakes! bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:differential brake |
Glad to see all the brake talk. My Firestar has single lever on
stick/mechanical brakes.
I found one thing...never hit the brakes on the ground unless the throttle is
closed.
Brakes+half throttle=bent pitot tube. It said one the blue prints that I am
supposed
to do this at least once. Darndist rule I ever heard.
Bill
FS438
Wilmore, Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
I have a flying buddy that is changing engines on his Mark III from a R503 to
a R582. The new setup with the Warp drive prop has only 1" clearance from
prop tip to tail boom. Is this enough?
ulflyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Yes, that is normal.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 7:18 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Prop clearance
Kolbers,
I have a flying buddy that is changing engines on his Mark III from a R503
to
a R582. The new setup with the Warp drive prop has only 1" clearance from
prop tip to tail boom. Is this enough?
ulflyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "youngblood" <barry(at)hcis.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:13:48 -0500 |
Can anyone help me find a supplier for power line markers (Orange
balls).Thank you.
> Barry
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:13:48 -0500 |
> Can anyone help me find a supplier for power line markers (Orange
> balls).Thank you.
> > Barry
> >
>
Barry and Gang:
Think they go by the name of Tana Balls, "Your balls saved
mine." If I remember correctly, they usually advertise in
Trade-a-Plane.
john h
PS: Try a www search for "Tana Balls".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:13:48 -0500 |
Contact Don Wilson in Geneva Alabama-He was making them a couple of years
ago-took them down to fly-market at Sun-Fun.
You may have to verify this number- he lives on County road 9 outside of
Geneva Alabama. His airfield is known as Ruby Field--a bunch on this net
also know him and correct his phone number if mine incorrect
Don Wilson--area 334-684-3066
his flying buddy--Randy Goodman 334-898-2682 . Randy lives in Samson Al--the
next town .
Lindy in LA ( lower Alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce McElhoe" <brucem(at)theworks.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:13:48 -0500 |
Barry,
Try P & R Technologies in Portland, Oregon.
http://www.pr-tech.com/
Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88
Reedley, Calif.
>
>
> Can anyone help me find a supplier for power line markers (Orange
> balls).Thank you.
> > Barry
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:13:48 -0500 |
John, they told me you were a pretty sharp feller, and now I have to believe
them. Hit'em on the 1st try. They're at www.tanawiremarker.com . Now,
that's service. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 1999 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:13:48 -0500
>
>
> > Can anyone help me find a supplier for power line markers (Orange
> > balls).Thank you.
> > > Barry
> > >
> >
>
> Barry and Gang:
>
> Think they go by the name of Tana Balls, "Your balls saved
> mine." If I remember correctly, they usually advertise in
> Trade-a-Plane.
>
> john h
>
> PS: Try a www search for "Tana Balls".
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop clearance |
You might need to raise the engine another inch with a spacer for those hard
at idle landings. I have 2 inches clearance. Excess turbulance in flight
with the power off may also cause a boom strike. My prop moves up and to the
left under power so the prop has more distance from the boom, but with the
power at idle an hard landing, the weight of the engine could cause the prop
to move down and strike the boom. By pulling down on the prop, you can see
what I am explaining. If you rock the engine up and down you can see what
might be happening in turbulance.
Just thinking out loud.
Firehawk
>From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Prop clearance
>Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 19:17:45 EST
>
>
>Kolbers,
>
>I have a flying buddy that is changing engines on his Mark III from a R503
>to
>a R582. The new setup with the Warp drive prop has only 1" clearance from
>prop tip to tail boom. Is this enough?
>
>ulflyer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:differential brake |
Static port(s) are on both sides sticking out of the rear of the nose cone.
Seems to
work fine. Plan to clean it up with some tiny pin hole plugs so critters
can't crawl up
the tubes.
Bill
FSI, 503, powerfin
Wilmore, Ky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Andre:
Great Lakes Light Planes address is gllplanes(at)aol.com. Phone is
920-757-0871. Pete Krotje(Corotie). My experience with him-Excellent!
Dallas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Power Line Markers |
Tana Wire Markers, P.O. Box C370, California, Mo 65018
Phone 573-796-3812
Fax 573-796-3770
John Moziey told them,"Your balls saved my life". A St. Louis Pilot.
Dallas Shepherd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:13:48 -0500 |
You're a very lucky man ! ! ! Should be some way to Force them to ball up
the other one. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:13:48 -0500
>
>
> > John, they told me you were a pretty sharp feller, and now I have to
believe
> > them. Lar.
>
> Lar and Gang:
>
> I thought I was too. ;-) That was until I snagged a 7600
> volt line with the tail wheel of my new Ultrastar in 1985.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Carurator Iceing |
I'm sure this subject has been hashed out on the list
before.
For the benefit of us newbies, I would appreciate any wisdom
concerning the avoiding of carburetor icing.
Last week had a friend do a forced landing because his
engine quit. He made a good dead stick landing, but wasn't
able to stop in time to avoid running into trees at the end
of the field. The field sloped towards the trees and he
doesn't have brakes. He has considerable damage to his
wing. He is fine!
We were flying in 50 to 55 degree temps. with visible haze.
We had just skirted the edge of the bay and were headed back
north away from the bay when he said his rpm dropped. He
applied throttle and was able to get some increase in rpm
but then it continued to die. He said he checked his bulb on
the fuel line and said it was firm indicating gas was to the
carb. I asked him if he tried to use the choke and he said
he didn't think of that.
I didn't experience any problem then and after landing to
see if he was OK, I took off for home to get my car to come
and pick him up. On the flight back home I noticed that I
had elevated EGT's, so I'm wondering if I had some icing
occurring? One thing more, We both are flying Rotax 447's,
but he has a foam air filter and I'm using the K&N that came
with the engine if that makes any difference. He is of the
opinion that has engine seized up, but hasen't torn it apart
yet to confirm. I would sure like to know!
I have since reread the article in the UL Flying Magazine,
June 1999, on carburetor icing and about dew point effecting
this problem. Was wondering if when we approached the edge
of the bay, we had reached the critical combination of temp
and dew point.
Looking to avoid a simular situation myself and would
appreciate any and all input regarding this problem.
P.S. Anyone know where he can find either a used single
seat Drifter or parts for one?
Terry K. FF # 95 52hr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Carburetor Icing |
I have flown year round and fortunately have never experienced any icing.
However, I have seen the effects of carb icing while commuting to work in a
pickup truck in PA a number of years back. The pipe which is supposed to
take warm air off the exhaust system and direct it toward the carb mouth had
rusted out on my truck. On days with the right humidity conditions, the
airflow around the carb mouth is fast enough to create ice. I'd be driving
along, and the engine would begin to lose power and then would suddenly
quit. The first few times I was frustrated at not being able to find
anything wrong. Naturally, after a few minutes without that frigid,
moisture-laden air rushing into the carburetor mouth, the ice would melt,
the engine would start normally and I would proceed to work (a little late).
It would have been interesting to see if your friend's engine would have
started up after a few minutes on the ground. If it runs fine now I would
suspect icing. If it seized then I believe there would be evidence of it
when he does the tear down, plus I wouldn't expect it to run as well now.
Get with some of the experts on this list. I'd be interested to hear what
one should look for to determine a seizure. All I would know to do is look
to see if the rings are stuck in the grooves due to excess carbon.
Bruce E. Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: TK [mailto:tkrolfe(at)epix.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 12:30 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Carurator Iceing
I'm sure this subject has been hashed out on the list
before.
For the benefit of us newbies, I would appreciate any wisdom
concerning the avoiding of carburetor icing.
Last week had a friend do a forced landing because his
engine quit. He made a good dead stick landing, but wasn't
able to stop in time to avoid running into trees at the end
of the field. The field sloped towards the trees and he
doesn't have brakes. He has considerable damage to his
wing. He is fine!
We were flying in 50 to 55 degree temps. with visible haze.
We had just skirted the edge of the bay and were headed back
north away from the bay when he said his rpm dropped. He
applied throttle and was able to get some increase in rpm
but then it continued to die. He said he checked his bulb on
the fuel line and said it was firm indicating gas was to the
carb. I asked him if he tried to use the choke and he said
he didn't think of that.
I didn't experience any problem then and after landing to
see if he was OK, I took off for home to get my car to come
and pick him up. On the flight back home I noticed that I
had elevated EGT's, so I'm wondering if I had some icing
occurring? One thing more, We both are flying Rotax 447's,
but he has a foam air filter and I'm using the K&N that came
with the engine if that makes any difference. He is of the
opinion that has engine seized up, but hasen't torn it apart
yet to confirm. I would sure like to know!
I have since reread the article in the UL Flying Magazine,
June 1999, on carburetor icing and about dew point effecting
this problem. Was wondering if when we approached the edge
of the bay, we had reached the critical combination of temp
and dew point.
Looking to avoid a simular situation myself and would
appreciate any and all input regarding this problem.
P.S. Anyone know where he can find either a used single
seat Drifter or parts for one?
Terry K. FF # 95 52hr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john todd" <toddatlucile(at)alltel.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: john todd <toddatlucile(at)alltel.net>
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thursday, December 16, 1999 6:24 AM
Subject: brakes
I used the original Kolb hand brake control (read motorcycle
hand brake) and discarded the large single handle. I went to the local
bicycle shop and obtained two short bicycle hand brake levers. I used an AN
4 bolt and some spacers to mount them side by side on the Kolb mount. They
are very effective and make the plane turn well. John Todd Firestar # 30
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Icing |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
I have experienced carb icing once in my 377 years ago when the OAT
(outside air temps) was right at the freezing point. The engine hesitated
on the takeoff roll, then caught again and took off. I didn't have a
problem the remainder of the day. I have never experienced it during
cruise. There seems to be many reasons why carb icing isn't as prevalent
in 2-cycle engines and one of them is the oil in the fuel appears to keep
the ice from forming. If your friends engine quit due to stuck rings, he
will see evidence of this when he takes it apart. When the OAT drops,
the engine idle needs to be turned up to maintain 2000 RPM at idle. Even
then, there is a tendency tor the engine to quit when throttled back to
idle, so I always maintain about 3500 RPM's on final during the winter
months. Another guy on this list had his engine quit on final and this is
a normal thing to happen if the engine RPM's are not kept high enough
during these colder months. Do be careful of thermal shock too, where the
engine is throttled back to idle suddenly from cruise RPM's. This could
crack a cylinder or bearing. Your friend could have tried slowing down in
tall grass off the side of the runway or slipped the plane to lose some
altitude and leave more runway to slow down. I've never had brakes and
all of this takes practice, of course. 20/20 is always hindsight. I
almost hit a tree during landing on a short runway with a light tailwind
in front of 5 other UL pilots. They all called me "Tailwind Charlie" for
a long time after that. We all live and learn with this UL stuff.
Ralph
Original FS, 12 years flying
>
> I'm sure this subject has been hashed out on the list
> before.
>
> For the benefit of us newbies, I would appreciate any wisdom
> concerning the avoiding of carburetor icing.
>
> Last week had a friend do a forced landing because his
> engine quit. He made a good dead stick landing, but wasn't
> able to stop in time to avoid running into trees at the end
> of the field. The field sloped towards the trees and he
> doesn't have brakes. He has considerable damage to his
> wing. He is fine!
>
> We were flying in 50 to 55 degree temps. with visible haze.
> We had just skirted the edge of the bay and were headed back
> north away from the bay when he said his rpm dropped. He
> applied throttle and was able to get some increase in rpm
> but then it continued to die. He said he checked his bulb on
> the fuel line and said it was firm indicating gas was to the
> carb. I asked him if he tried to use the choke and he said
> he didn't think of that.
>
> I didn't experience any problem then and after landing to
> see if he was OK, I took off for home to get my car to come
> and pick him up. On the flight back home I noticed that I
> had elevated EGT's, so I'm wondering if I had some icing
> occurring? One thing more, We both are flying Rotax 447's,
> but he has a foam air filter and I'm using the K&N that came
> with the engine if that makes any difference. He is of the
> opinion that has engine seized up, but hasen't torn it apart
> yet to confirm. I would sure like to know!
>
> I have since reread the article in the UL Flying Magazine,
> June 1999, on carburetor icing and about dew point effecting
> this problem. Was wondering if when we approached the edge
> of the bay, we had reached the critical combination of temp
> and dew point.
>
> Looking to avoid a simular situation myself and would
> appreciate any and all input regarding this problem.
>
> P.S. Anyone know where he can find either a used single
> seat Drifter or parts for one?
>
> Terry K. FF # 95 52hr.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Mounting |
Duane:
Have been wrestling some more today with the strobe location on this Fly,
and
have just about decided to discard the little mounting bracket I made for
the top of the fin and instead, take your advice and put it on the boom
with a ss hose clamp... I can't quite bring myself to go drilling all those
nasty holes in that fin...besides, snaking that wire from up there could be
a problem and I already have aplenty of those without manufacturing any
synthetic ones... I'm going to put this animal about a foot ahead of the
fin, drill a small hole in the boom and run the power leads inside it...
I wanted to ask you about how you did the clamp... I plan to hook the little
ss mounting tang on the strobe under the clamp, padding it with a small bit
of rubber... Did you pad your clamp in any way...? especially under the
screw? or did you just put it on there barefooted...? I worry about
damaging the boom...
Thanks,
Beauford
-----Original Message-----
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com <>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Strobe Mounting
>
>Hi Beauford et al: The strobe on all three of my Kolbs has been mounted on
>the top side of the boom tube ~ half way between the back of the cage and
>beginning of the vertical fin. It is held in place with a single SS hose
>clamp around the boom tube.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <olendorf(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Paper airplane Firefly |
Hi all,
If you are done flying for the season and are a little bored or if you are
currently building and need a break then I have something for you. It would
be especially fun for those building a Firefly but everyone should enjoy it.
ftp://members.aol.com/olefirest1/paperfly.jpg
This is a paper model of a Firefly. This is great to experiment with paint
schemes. It will really fly too! Click on image to get the full size file,
save it to disk, then print with a utility that provides a "fit to page"
option. It is best to use card stock if you want to fly it.
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 377
Schenectady, NY http://members.aol.com/olefiresta
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Mounting |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Beauford,
I am planning to run a wire for a nav light on the tail fin. I am pre
wiring the vertical before covering so have that problem whipped. What I
am trying to figure now is how to run the wire forward thru the fuselage
tube and making sure that it does not come in contact with a cable which
could abrade the insulation and cause excitement.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB
writes:
>
>
> Duane:
> Have been wrestling some more today with the strobe location on this
> fin, drill a small hole in the boom and run the power leads inside
> it...
Beauford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Icing |
One of the main reasons carb icing is not such a big problem with two-stroke
engines is the result of the slide valve type carbs we use. Trust me--if
there was a butterfly valve in the carbs instead it would try to ice up. do
not archive. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Seized, or freezed? |
Someone wrote;
>It would have been interesting to see if your friend's engine would have
>started up after a few minutes on the ground. If it runs fine now I would
>suspect icing. If it seized then I believe there would be evidence of it
>when he does the tear down, plus I wouldn't expect it to run as well now.
Be very careful about these assumptions.
"...runs fine now...suspect icing"--WRONG!!! I have experienced
first-hand several 2-stroke seizures that allowed engine restart after a
few minutes' cooldown and then the engine ran full RPM. There WAS damage,
however, in the form of smeared metal, just not enough to cause excessive
ring leakage. In 400 2-stroke hours in the air and thousands more on the
ground I have never experienced carb icing on a 2-stroke, and I live in
Minnesota. I am sure it is possible to have icing, but thankfully I have
never experienced any.
PLEASE encourage your friend to tear it down now. He has the time (his
Drifter is bent anyway), and he needs to know what happened for sure.
Without any other evidence, I would guess that its at least 5 times more
likely he seized than freezed.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
I have a wire on the North side of my airstrip. I have contacted the
tallapoosa River Electric Coop several times and talked with engineers about
it, but they will NOT insstall or permit installation of these safety
devices. They claim they have none in their whole system and will not set a
precidence. I offered to pay for the balls and the installation but no
avail. I have had the Alabama Aeronautical Safety people tell them they must
but they still wont. They claim putting the balls there admits liability but
I believe by not putting them there they become liable for not correcting
what could be a hazzardous situation. Any comments? If you fly around my
place and want to land fron the North or take off to the North, beware of the
lines. They are single and very hard to see. They are a distance back from
the road and I discourage landing or taking off from that direction. How do
I educate these people before someone snags it? G'day Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen " <NeilsenR(at)state.mi.us> |
I ran into a similar situation in Michigan. I have power lines on east end of my
strip. I made the same offers to Consumers Power but they said they found that
the balls caused a higher frequence of power lines damage due to wind and ice.
End of discussion.
<<<<>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
| Subject: | More on the icing thread |
Hello Evertt:
I think you explained scientifically what we have all seen--that frosty
snowbound carburetor venturi. I have also flown several Cessnas and that is
why it made me nervous flying my Rotax in the winter. It would add a small
amount of complexity, but it might be worth fabricating a duct which would
take some of the warm air flowing off the top of the Rotax cylinder heads
and direct it to the carburetor. Of course, it would need to be something
with a cable control to the cockpit so it could be turned on and off. Hey,
if I develop this thing for the Rotax engines I could make a small fortune
(providing I start out with a large fortune). Thanks for the input--next
time send it to the whole list so all can benefit. Hope you don't mind if I
forward it to the list.
Bruce E. Harrison
Copied from Evertt's Reply:
Dear BEH, I've been flying C-150 with the TCM 0-200 engine for about 10
years (600 hours) and that engine is well known for carb.icing problems. The
C-152 w/lycoming engine isn't as subject to carb.icing as the Teledyne
Contennential 0-200.
Carb.ice (pardon me if i'm preaching to the choir) occurs in the induction
air for two reasons. First reason is reduction of pressure brought about by
reduction of area which the air experiences by going from the carb. inlet (a
large area) to the annular area between the carb. throat and venturi (a
smaller area, causing the air to flow faster, and at less pressure = partial
vacuum). The reduction of pressure causes the air to (a) have less moisture
holding ability (the relative humidity goes up, condensation is more apt to
occur) and (b) the temperature is reduced (just as air temp is increased
when air -or any gas, for that matter- is compressed). In diesel engines,
the "heat of compression" is enough to ignite the fuel as it passes the
injectors into the combustion chamber. (that's why "spark plugs" aren't
needed in diesel engines) This phenom. with the venturi and air pressure and
air flow in carburators cannot be avoided and o! ccurs in both carb.engines
and fuel injected engines. Does not happen on diesels because the induction
air of a diesel is "wide open" all the time -power is regulated in diesels
by the amount of fuel passing the injectors - but -- I degress..... the
second phenom. is the evaporation of fuel. When the fuel evaporates, the
temp. is reduced and this is evident in "evaporative cooling" of some
primative airconditioning systems used in climates with low humidity.
The two phenoms combine to make a deadly combination; sensible moisture from
condensation and reduced temperature can ice up a carb. venturi in only a
few minutes. One of the "trouble shooting" techniques would be to very
carefully stroke the throttle plate and see if resistance if felt when
closing the throttle plate. (I guess "trouble shooting" is a good work for
this action, at this time, for those reasons. Without aux. heat (like the
Cessna has "carb-heat", etc.) icing can occur even when "visible" moisture
(i.e., clouds or haze) is not present. Cessna Clubs and Cessna organization
have tables which cross-reference tem. and relative humidity VS probability
of icing. Many a Cessna pilot went down because they procrastinated to pull
on "carb.heat" -- once the engine stops, carb. heat isn't available any more
(i.e. there is not longer any combustion gases in the muffler to heat the
Carb.H! eat!) Pull on carb. heat BEFORE you need it --
Incidentally, when one pulls carb.heat on an 0-200 TCM engine that isn't
"icing up" the RPM goes down and STAYS down If RPM goes down -engine
sputters- and RPM goes part-way back up, then you've cleared carb.ice!.
Checking Carb heat is a pre-takeoff checklist item., there is a reduction of
power because the induction air is warmer (less dense) and hence, mix. goes
richer, air flow goes lesser, power is 10% reduced.
Hope my diatribe isn't too boring, I just thought I'd pass along my rambling
thoughts on the matter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
How do
> I educate these people before someone snags it? G'day Ted
Ted:
That is where EAA and AOPA come in handy. Both
organizations have enough clout to get things like
installing Tana Balls done.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Seized, or freezed? |
In a message dated 99-12-17 7:48:00 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gerken(at)us.ibm.com writes:
<< PLEASE encourage your friend to tear it down now. He has the time (his
Drifter is bent anyway), and he needs to know what happened for sure.
Without any other evidence, I would guess that its at least 5 times more
likely he seized than freezed.
>>
The Golden Rule of two stroke flying can be stated as follows: "After
any unexplained stoppage of your engine thou shalt remove the exhaust
manifold and inspect for evidence of seizure."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Mounting |
Morning Beauford, I clamped the SS tab directly to the Al boom tube with no
padding. The theory was that if it was pretty tight and didn't move it would
not hog out any metal from the tube. I'm sure it would not hurt to put a
piece of gasket material to prevent any scuffing at the point(s) of contact.
I agree on keeping the number of holes in the boom tube to a minimum. In
talks with Dennis S. he said that the highest stress is in the area of the
tail boom connection to the fusilage. The maximum forces the tail surfaces
are able to impose on the tail boom are concentrated there by the moment arm
of the boom itself. No extra holes there but you are probably ok back near
the tail. Happy Hollidays, Duane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Mounting |
That's why I ran mine outside the tube, along about the 7 o'clock position
near the bottom of the tube. That way the control cables never touch it.
Then if you wrap your tube with a piece of fabric to cover up the wire, it
won't show, and then you can paint the tube with the regular Stits, and it
matches. No need to play with the enamel stuff.
Does add a litle bit of labor.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Beauford,
>
>I am planning to run a wire for a nav light on the tail fin. I am pre
>wiring the vertical before covering so have that problem whipped. What I
>am trying to figure now is how to run the wire forward thru the fuselage
>tube and making sure that it does not come in contact with a cable which
>could abrade the insulation and cause excitement.
>
>L. Ray Baker
>Lake Butler, Fl
>Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seized, or freezed? |
I agree whole heartedly. Let us know what you find. I've experienced the
same thing and it was seizure.
Firehawk
>From: gerken(at)us.ibm.com
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Seized, or freezed?
>Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 06:46:18 -0600
>
>
>Someone wrote;
>
> >It would have been interesting to see if your friend's engine would have
> >started up after a few minutes on the ground. If it runs fine now I would
> >suspect icing. If it seized then I believe there would be evidence of it
> >when he does the tear down, plus I wouldn't expect it to run as well now.
>
>Be very careful about these assumptions.
> "...runs fine now...suspect icing"--WRONG!!! I have experienced
>first-hand several 2-stroke seizures that allowed engine restart after a
>few minutes' cooldown and then the engine ran full RPM. There WAS damage,
>however, in the form of smeared metal, just not enough to cause excessive
>ring leakage. In 400 2-stroke hours in the air and thousands more on the
>ground I have never experienced carb icing on a 2-stroke, and I live in
>Minnesota. I am sure it is possible to have icing, but thankfully I have
>never experienced any.
>
>PLEASE encourage your friend to tear it down now. He has the time (his
>Drifter is bent anyway), and he needs to know what happened for sure.
>Without any other evidence, I would guess that its at least 5 times more
>likely he seized than freezed.
>
>Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Part 103 Compliance |
In a message dated 12/11/1999 11:36:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
MitchMnD(at)aol.com writes:
<< I junked all the klunky BRS mounting hardware and designed, built and
tested my own which was about 4 pounds lighter. I can wear my radio and GPS
so they are not part of the plane. I later added bigger wheels and longer
windshield. The increased weight ought to put me right on the 254 limit.
everything else is minimum,
stock, per the drawings/manual. Duane the plane in Tallahassee >>
Duane and Kolbers,
It is my understanding, that if one installs a BRS (or other brand of
parachute system), then you are allowed an additional 24 lbs. (to the 254
lbs.), which would then permit a total UL weight of 278 lbs. If the BRS
weighs only, say, 18 lbs., then could you use the six pound difference to
install some other gadget(s)?
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377 - 354 Hours
Second Chantz Soft Pack between the wings
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: More on the icing thread |
Rotax makes a carb heater or CPS sells one just for Rotax engines
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More on the icing thread |
Rotaxes and Lycomings are not the same animal and they don't operate the
same way in cool damp weather. Rotaxes in my opinion do not need carb heat.
Now the pilot might need Cockpit heat but not the Rotax.
Think about this: Low time engine or low wear engine on take off or any
situation that causes the engine to make heat rapidly. The outside air is a
lot cooler in cool climate winter time situations therefore the cooling
ability is enhanced. The piston heats up and expands at a faster rate than
the cylinder. The throttle is pulled back to cruise which cuts off the
supply of fuel that has been cooling the piston and the cylinder. The lean
mixture is hotter and has less oil, the piston keeps expanding at an even
higher rate while the cylinder is cooling off. Seizure, it all happens in a
split second and the piston stops because it has expanded to the cylinder
wall with little or no oil to protect it.
The solution to this problem can be accomplished by simple remembering to
always move the throttle slowly and give the engine time to adjust to the
differences in temperatures and settings by allowing it to cool off and heat
up slower. Remember too that our engines are a lot tighter than our old
motorcycle engines were and they want take the same abuse if you want to get
any time out of them.
My belief is if the engine stops, be 100% sure why it stopped before you fly
it again. A wrong educated guess will not do you any good over a pine
thicket.
Flame away,
Firehawk
>From: "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: More on the icing thread
>Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:43:28 -0500
>
>
>
>Hello Evertt:
>
>I think you explained scientifically what we have all seen--that frosty
>snowbound carburetor venturi. I have also flown several Cessnas and that is
>why it made me nervous flying my Rotax in the winter. It would add a small
>amount of complexity, but it might be worth fabricating a duct which would
>take some of the warm air flowing off the top of the Rotax cylinder heads
>and direct it to the carburetor. Of course, it would need to be something
>with a cable control to the cockpit so it could be turned on and off. Hey,
>if I develop this thing for the Rotax engines I could make a small fortune
>(providing I start out with a large fortune). Thanks for the input--next
>time send it to the whole list so all can benefit. Hope you don't mind if I
>forward it to the list.
>
>Bruce E. Harrison
>Copied from Evertt's Reply:
>Dear BEH, I've been flying C-150 with the TCM 0-200 engine for about 10
>years (600 hours) and that engine is well known for carb.icing problems.
>The
>C-152 w/lycoming engine isn't as subject to carb.icing as the Teledyne
>Contennential 0-200.
>Carb.ice (pardon me if i'm preaching to the choir) occurs in the induction
>air for two reasons. First reason is reduction of pressure brought about by
>reduction of area which the air experiences by going from the carb. inlet
>(a
>large area) to the annular area between the carb. throat and venturi (a
>smaller area, causing the air to flow faster, and at less pressure =
>partial
>vacuum). The reduction of pressure causes the air to (a) have less moisture
>holding ability (the relative humidity goes up, condensation is more apt to
>occur) and (b) the temperature is reduced (just as air temp is increased
>when air -or any gas, for that matter- is compressed). In diesel engines,
>the "heat of compression" is enough to ignite the fuel as it passes the
>injectors into the combustion chamber. (that's why "spark plugs" aren't
>needed in diesel engines) This phenom. with the venturi and air pressure
>and
>air flow in carburators cannot be avoided and o! ccurs in both carb.engines
>and fuel injected engines. Does not happen on diesels because the induction
>air of a diesel is "wide open" all the time -power is regulated in diesels
>by the amount of fuel passing the injectors - but -- I degress..... the
>second phenom. is the evaporation of fuel. When the fuel evaporates, the
>temp. is reduced and this is evident in "evaporative cooling" of some
>primative airconditioning systems used in climates with low humidity.
>The two phenoms combine to make a deadly combination; sensible moisture
>from
>condensation and reduced temperature can ice up a carb. venturi in only a
>few minutes. One of the "trouble shooting" techniques would be to very
>carefully stroke the throttle plate and see if resistance if felt when
>closing the throttle plate. (I guess "trouble shooting" is a good work for
>this action, at this time, for those reasons. Without aux. heat (like the
>Cessna has "carb-heat", etc.) icing can occur even when "visible" moisture
>(i.e., clouds or haze) is not present. Cessna Clubs and Cessna organization
>have tables which cross-reference tem. and relative humidity VS probability
>of icing. Many a Cessna pilot went down because they procrastinated to pull
>on "carb.heat" -- once the engine stops, carb. heat isn't available any
>more
>(i.e. there is not longer any combustion gases in the muffler to heat the
>Carb.H! eat!) Pull on carb. heat BEFORE you need it --
>Incidentally, when one pulls carb.heat on an 0-200 TCM engine that isn't
>"icing up" the RPM goes down and STAYS down If RPM goes down -engine
>sputters- and RPM goes part-way back up, then you've cleared carb.ice!.
>Checking Carb heat is a pre-takeoff checklist item., there is a reduction
>of
>power because the induction air is warmer (less dense) and hence, mix. goes
>richer, air flow goes lesser, power is 10% reduced.
>Hope my diatribe isn't too boring, I just thought I'd pass along my
>rambling
>thoughts on the matter.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
| Subject: | Seized, or freezed? |
Forgot to mention -
"rapid changes in throttle setting" : I mean that rapid throttling down on
two strokes will cause icing sometimes. This is because when you throttle
down rapidly you decrease the amount of gas going into the carburator but
the engine is still up at high rpms, "prop wind milling" and the engine is
still sucking in great quantities of air. The moisture is condensed out
onto the cold carb walls and there is less/ no gasoline to displace the
water and so ice can form restricting the carb opening, impairing the jet
from atomizing gasoline and causing a decrease in power.
Moral: on days when icing is of concern don't do rapid decrease of the
throttle. Ease into lowering the throttle and allow the engine to decrease
rpms gradually. It will help to minimise the chance for icing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Zenith-List: Nav light grounding |
>> I'm building a 701 but the answer should apply to a 601 as well. Do I
>> need to run a separate ground wire to my wing and tail nav lights and
>> strobe power supplies (mounted in the wing tips) or can I rely on the
>> aluminum airframe and pick up the tail light ground from the rear
>> fuselage and also put a wire between the wing structure and fuselage, to
>> assure no loss in the wing bolts, for the wing lights and strobes?
>The airframe is a good enough ground. Only concern is the corrossion caused
>by electric current (there should be information about this in the
>archieve).
This caveat has a very tiny support in the laws of
physics. IF a joint is likely to corrode due to any
chemical stress OTHER than flow of electrons through
a ground, then the stresses are increased by causing
a flow of electrons across the joint.
In actual practice, I've never seen it happen nor have
I found any other individual who has seen it happen and
properly indentified the physics that caused the problem.
The amount of time that any lighting or pitot heater is
turned ON compared to the total lifetime of an airframe
makes this a trivial concern.
>I participated on a workshop during Sun'n Fun last year. The guy told us,
>that there will be some corrosion when using the airframe as a ground, but
>it will be insignificant. The only ground cable that is really needed is
>from the starter (again, that was his opinion).
"Some" corrosion isn't a quantified statement. If he's
talking about stuff you might find with a microscope in
a poorly assembled joint then we can agree that "some"
corrosion will occur. If you've bolted everything together
werein all electrical and mechanical joints are gas tight
then no corrosion will occur . . . ever.
The strongest grounding concerns deal with voltage
drop due to poor ground pathway selection and dependence
upon mechanical joints for integrity of the electrical
system. Starter current and battery charging pathways
are the most critical because they are the highest currents
in the system (200A for some starters, 60A for lots of
alternators).
A bond strap between crankcase and a firewall ground
stud is a good thing. A healty wire connection between
battery minus and the same ground stud is another good
thing. Using this ground stud as the gathering point
for all electrical goodies behind the panel is a good
thing. If you've come this far, the use of airframe to
ground a few outlying components like nav lights, landing
light, pitot heat and strobes is a perfectly sensible
thing to do.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Battery size |
r.navy.mil>
> Bob,
> The problem has been discussed about the 12 AMP battery not being strong
>enough to "start" the 582 (in all cases). From your answer, it sounds like
>you are saying, "The 12 AMP is not sufficient". "The 14 AMP is the next
>size up so, get that one". Correct??????????????
This is a problem with pat answers based on past
experience and/or ol' mechanic's tales. I can
show you a 1.2 a.h. battery that will crank an
engine perfectly well . . . . several times!
Bottom line is that EACH battery needs to be
evaluated on its own merits.
Given the rapid advance of the science in battery
technologies, I'd hesitate to discount ANY
idea until it's tried. A fairly general answer
to using low a.h. batteries to crank engines is
related to terminal sizes . . . many RG batteries
have sufficiently low internal impedance to crank
and engine . . . ya just can't hood a 4 or 6AWG
wire to them.
B&C has an itty bitty 10 a.h. that he cranked
a cold IO-360 through a 5 blade starting sequence
7-8 times in a row before the battery faded. It's
terminals are about equal to a 10-30 screw. With
some care in termination and bolt torque attention,
this guy could work just fine in a 912 powered
airplane.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: More on the icing thread |
michael highsmith wrote:
>
>
> Rotaxes and Lycomings are not the same animal and they don't operate the
> same way in cool damp weather. Rotaxes in my opinion do not need carb heat.
> Now the pilot might need Cockpit heat but not the Rotax.
yes, the pilot does need heat, but so does the carb on a rotax.
up here in Norway we have both reindeer, ice and snow. all of them are
o.k. providing they don't get into the cockpit or the carbs. carb icing
on rotaxes occur even at temps above freezing providing you have the
right relative humidity, temperature and thence dew point. an open
engine installation like a kolb is more prone to carb icing than an
cowled installation.
what we use , is a gadget manufactured by a british company called
cyclone airsports. it's a sleeve that goes on the intake between the
carb and the air filter, and works by heating the carb body and throat.
there is no power loss as with hot air carb heat. the gadget is made in
two versions; one electrical unit, and one that uses coolant on 582's
et.al.
i'm enclosing a url to the British companys price-list.
http://www.pegasusaviation.co.uk/prices1.htm#rotaxess
ole
(always switching on carb heat when doing my lowpass in order to chase
the reindeer off our strip before landing.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I think I would be very quick to get their response in writing. Seems like
they are leaving themselves wide open by refusing to install a safety device
that is widely - and successfully - used elsewhere. Many elsewheres.
Probably wouldn't help the guy who hits the wire - very few are as lucky as
John - but it would be nice to retire on their money. Thought we had a
lawyer type on the List, that some jumped on a while back. What's his
opinion ?? Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TCowan1917(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 5:02 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: tana balls
>
> I have a wire on the North side of my airstrip. I have contacted the
> tallapoosa River Electric Coop several times and talked with engineers
about
> it, but they will NOT insstall or permit installation of these safety
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: More on the icing thread |
I'll bet it would be interesting to hear some of Ole's flying stories. The
same for Johann in Iceland, who we haven't heard too much from lately.
Johann ?? Ole ?? Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no>
> yes, the pilot does need heat, but so does the carb on a rotax.
> up here in Norway we have both reindeer, ice and snow. all of them are
> o.k. providing they don't get into the cockpit or the carbs. carb icing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Carburetor Icing |
JR: Can you expand on your first post? By butterfly valve do you mean the
plate you see when you look down into an automotive carburetor?
Bruce E. Harrison
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: Part 103 Compliance |
WVarnes(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 12/11/1999 11:36:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> MitchMnD(at)aol.com writes:
>
> << I junked all the klunky BRS mounting hardware and designed, built and
> tested my own which was about 4 pounds lighter. I can wear my radio and GPS
> so they are not part of the plane. I later added bigger wheels and longer
> windshield. The increased weight ought to put me right on the 254 limit.
> everything else is minimum,
> stock, per the drawings/manual. Duane the plane in Tallahassee >>
>
> Duane and Kolbers,
>
> It is my understanding, that if one installs a BRS (or other brand of
> parachute system), then you are allowed an additional 24 lbs. (to the 254
> lbs.), which would then permit a total UL weight of 278 lbs. If the BRS
> weighs only, say, 18 lbs., then could you use the six pound difference to
> install some other gadget(s)?
>
> Bill Varnes
The way it works is this. You are allowed extra weight for the BRS, and
any FAA inspector can allow 24 lb without question. If it actually
weighs more than 24 lb, than that too can be allowed but you are
required to prove the greater weight.
So yes, if you install a BRS and a weight test comes in at say 270 lb,
then you could get by with adding some goody that weighs up to 8 lb.
Look in AC 103-7, as quoted below:
Section 18. POWERED VEHICLE WEIGHT
a. Items Excluded From the Computation of the Empty weight of a
Powered Ultralight Vehicle.
(1) Safety Devices Which are Intended for Deployment in a Potentially
Catastrophic Situation.
(i) Up to 24 pounds of weight associated with the parachute system may
be excluded by the FAA without requiring a separate weighing of the
system components.
Note that (1) allows exclusion of parachute weight WITHOUT ANY LIMITS.
Note that (i) then you get 24 without question, and strongly implies
that greater weight can be allowed if the greater value can be
extablished by actual weighing.
AC 103-7 answers many of the questions that one comes up with concerning
Part 103.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Part 103 Compliance |
Hi Bill,
To answer your question: The most important word in (i) below is "may".
The inspector "may" allow up to 24 lbs without a separate weighing. If the
inspector "may" allow this, then, logically, he also "may" not allow this
too. If he does not allow this, then he has every right according to this
regulation to tell you to remove the parachute and then weigh the ultralight
separately.
The best you can do, if an inspector were to ask you to remove the parachute
so as to determine the actual weight of the ultralight, is to have the
regulation with you and point out to the inspector that according to (i) he,
the inspector, does not need to require a separate weighing. He may not be
aware of it.
Basically (i) lets it up to the inspector whether he wants to weigh the
ultralight and add the 24 lb. allowance, or whether he wants to weigh the
ultralight separately by removing the parachute.
(i) Up to 24 pounds of weight associated with the parachute system may
be excluded by the FAA without requiring a separate weighing of the
system components.
Hope this helps
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
WVarnes(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Part 103 Compliance
In a message dated 12/11/1999 11:36:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
MitchMnD(at)aol.com writes:
<< I junked all the klunky BRS mounting hardware and designed, built and
tested my own which was about 4 pounds lighter. I can wear my radio and GPS
so they are not part of the plane. I later added bigger wheels and longer
windshield. The increased weight ought to put me right on the 254 limit.
everything else is minimum,
stock, per the drawings/manual. Duane the plane in Tallahassee >>
Duane and Kolbers,
It is my understanding, that if one installs a BRS (or other brand of
parachute system), then you are allowed an additional 24 lbs. (to the 254
lbs.), which would then permit a total UL weight of 278 lbs. If the BRS
weighs only, say, 18 lbs., then could you use the six pound difference to
install some other gadget(s)?
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377 - 354 Hours
Second Chantz Soft Pack between the wings
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
How far out of balance would a wood prop have to be to notice the vibration.
Would one gram out be noticeable. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Icing |
Yes Bruce, that is what I mean. Ice is possible on a slide valve/venturi carb
like most Mikunis, Bings etc but it is rare and usually not as severe. Do not
archive. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Its a high copper alloyed aluminum,3 to 4 percent, such as 2024. It has
other elements in it, but the primary alloying agent is copper. Makes
it stronger.
Dallas Shepherd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLUPSHUR(at)aol.com |
Have you asked them to run the wires underground?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/16/99 |
Please remove me from the list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I tried to email you back Skip, and your provider wouldn't accept it. I'll
go ahead and forward this to the List, and hope that's what you wanted. I
think it's good info, and worthy of thought. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 3:11 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: tana balls
>
> Larry,
>
> For whatever reason I can't post to the list. It must be this new URL
> name. I'll figure it out at a later time. :)
>
> As far as the "balls" are concerned around here the solution is to have
the
> electric company bury the line off the end of the runway. That's what had
> to be done here at a small private local airport. It works, but it ain't
> cheap!
>
> Skip
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wbrans" <wbrans(at)provide.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carburetor Icing |
JR, Would you please tell me the name of the FAA 'Mechanics bible.. such as
AC 43 something. I'd like to buy a copy. I need to do a weight and balance
on a Kolb Twinstar.
Where would I find a good book on weight and balance?
Warren Branscomb Detroit, MI Kolb Twinstar wbrans(at)provide.Net
Pleas answer OFF the Kolb list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carurator Iceing |
Get the carb heaters from Leaf in colorado.$300 well spent.
everyone on the kist wants a chute , but I am a firm beliver in carb
heaters first. I have them an my mk3. All events of " she was running
fine and then she just quit[almost always on a trailing throttle or low
powersetting] and now it runs fine agian " are icing.Spend the bucks.
Del Vinal.207 372 8181 evenings.
TK wrote:
>
> I'm sure this subject has been hashed out on the list
> before.
>
> For the benefit of us newbies, I would appreciate any wisdom
> concerning the avoiding of carburetor icing.
>
> Last week had a friend do a forced landing because his
> engine quit. He made a good dead stick landing, but wasn't
> able to stop in time to avoid running into trees at the end
> of the field. The field sloped towards the trees and he
> doesn't have brakes. He has considerable damage to his
> wing. He is fine!
>
> We were flying in 50 to 55 degree temps. with visible haze.
> We had just skirted the edge of the bay and were headed back
> north away from the bay when he said his rpm dropped. He
> applied throttle and was able to get some increase in rpm
> but then it continued to die. He said he checked his bulb on
> the fuel line and said it was firm indicating gas was to the
> carb. I asked him if he tried to use the choke and he said
> he didn't think of that.
>
> I didn't experience any problem then and after landing to
> see if he was OK, I took off for home to get my car to come
> and pick him up. On the flight back home I noticed that I
> had elevated EGT's, so I'm wondering if I had some icing
> occurring? One thing more, We both are flying Rotax 447's,
> but he has a foam air filter and I'm using the K&N that came
> with the engine if that makes any difference. He is of the
> opinion that has engine seized up, but hasen't torn it apart
> yet to confirm. I would sure like to know!
>
> I have since reread the article in the UL Flying Magazine,
> June 1999, on carburetor icing and about dew point effecting
> this problem. Was wondering if when we approached the edge
> of the bay, we had reached the critical combination of temp
> and dew point.
>
> Looking to avoid a simular situation myself and would
> appreciate any and all input regarding this problem.
>
> P.S. Anyone know where he can find either a used single
> seat Drifter or parts for one?
>
> Terry K. FF # 95 52hr.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/17/99 |
Okay, good people. The area where the wires are located are to the North of
my airstrip. (I generally have about 2000' East/West but there is about 1600'
North/South area where we usually taxi, etc.) The wires are across the road
on my neighbor's land inward about 150' and not all that high. Approaching
and landing from the North requires a good deal of experience because you
must "stall" in and land short. Taking off is no problem except if you have
a flame-out. There would be bad news at this. My neighbor is not really
"user-friendly" and these are his wires. This may be my problem, he doesnot
want them there. I dont think he would agree with much of anything that I
would want. (people living around air ports would probably prefer they not
be there even if they were there first) I have large tall pampus grass
plants across the end of the property by the road. You would have to come in
high and drop in anyway, but the balls would be nice as a reminder, land E/W.
Burying them? Out of the question. It is my neighbor's land. I dont really
want to start a big ruckus. That end is not marked for a landing zone and
people should just respect this. I guess you cannot protect the stupid. I
do land that direction occasionally just for drill and emergency training but
not as a rule. Even for a firestar, it is a difficult landing. I appreciate
all the input. Thanks. Ted. The answer: Use East/West approach.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cjc0751(at)banet.net |
| Subject: | Re: More on the icing thread |
There is some good info about carb icing at www.ez.org/carb_ice.htm
Nice color graph and all.
The last sentance is a quote which reads:
The use of ethylene glycol mononmethyl ether
(in conjunction) with the Teflon-coated (throttle) plate and shaft
eliminated all ice deposition".
Lots of other good aticles at this site.
Be sure to read the article called "The Flight To Remember".
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
Randy wrote:
>
>
> How far out of balance would a wood prop have to be to notice the vibration.
> Would one gram out be noticeable. Thanks
VERY NOTICABLE!
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
" Any private pilot knows you do not fly over any area you cannot
glide
over in case of equipment failure."
Knowing the above, and practicing it are two wholly different things.
You must remember that most GA pilots do not fly with the thought that
their engine may quit at any moment. That is ONE of the reasons that GA
engine failures have a high fatality rate.
Mike
Olympic Ultralights
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Part 103 Compliance |
Thompson, Todd wrote:
BTW, if you fly without radio handheld batteries do'nt
> let the FAA guy know this because he may ask if you have a 12 volt source
> for the batteryless radio. ie. you are admitting to - "electrical system"
> since this is part of an electrical distribution wiring system - and this is
> could be construed as illegal in a Part 103 vehicle.<
Where did you find THIS? ....
And here I have been teaching U/L students since 1994, telling them they
can mount a 12KW Diesel generator and a 5 million candlepower spotlight
on their U/L as long as they keep it under 254....
No electrical system......? Hmmmm.
Cheers,
Mike
Olympic Ultralights
And back to lurk...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
Mike
I filled the nicks and spayed the prop and then I mounted it on a
computer spin balancer for motorcycle tires and it showed it was balanced
the balancer will measure down to 1 Gram do you think that is good enough or
what should I do . Also did you ever figure anything out on the VLS system
for the Firestar Thanks Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 1:48 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: prop balance
>
>1) Remove the prop
>2) hang it over the mantle on a nail.
>3) adjust to level attitude
>4) Open beer and admire prop.
>5) Call Mike and buy Ivo prop :)
>Lockwood sells a neat little balancer. Two peices. One fits into the
>prop hole, the other is a cone that fits into the first peice. You set
>the prop on it, take a measure at one tip and bring the blade around 180
>degrees and measure the other tip. remove or add material to balance
>accordingly.
> If I have to use a wood prop(I dont- I use Ivo`s) or am doing one for a
>customer, I sand the leading edges and fill dents with a mix of sawdust
>and white glue or T-88. Then I varnish the whole prop with Carver Tripps
>Spar Varnish (best to spray it on). Once the prop is varnished, you can
>do the final balance with a spray can of clear to get it perfect. Takes
>a bit of dinckin` around, but if you really get picky, even a wood prop
>can be made SMOOOOOOOTH. (at least until the humidity changes).
>Always use some Lemon Pledge on it after flying to remove the bugs,
>grass, birds, deer and loose cockpit articles, (which also helps keep it
>sealed), then level the prop horizontally. Vertical is a bad thing.
>Mike
>Randy wrote:
>>
>>
>> What's the best way to balance a wood prop, and what do you fill the
little
>> nicks with Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Part 103 Compliance |
>Thompson, Todd wrote:
> BTW, if you fly without radio handheld batteries do'nt
>> let the FAA guy know this because he may ask if you have a 12 volt source
>> for the batteryless radio. ie. you are admitting to - "electrical system"
>> since this is part of an electrical distribution wiring system - and this is
>> could be construed as illegal in a Part 103 vehicle.<
Unless they have revised Part 103 lately, I sure don't remember that part...
You can have a TV, a microwave, and a coffeepot as long as it's not too heavy.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Common Sense |
>
>" Any private pilot knows you do not fly over any area you cannot
>glide
>over in case of equipment failure."
>
>Knowing the above, and practicing it are two wholly different things.
>You must remember that most GA pilots do not fly with the thought that
>their engine may quit at any moment. That is ONE of the reasons that GA
>engine failures have a high fatality rate.
> Mike
>Olympic Ultralights
There are old pilots and bold pilots but no old bold pilots. If more GA
pilots remembered that little rule from their training days and kept their
altitude lest the ground rise up and smite them there may be fewer
fatalities. Sometimes the rules make sense.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Common Sense |
In a message dated 12/19/99 12:04:58 PM, duesouth(at)iname.com writes:
<<>" Any private pilot knows you do not fly over any area you cannot
>glide
>over in case of equipment failure."
>
>Knowing the above, and practicing it are two wholly different things.
>You must remember that most GA pilots do not fly with the thought that
>their engine may quit at any moment. That is ONE of the reasons that GA
>engine failures have a high fatality rate.
> Mike
>Olympic Ultralights
There are old pilots and bold pilots but no old bold pilots. If more GA
pilots remembered that little rule from their training days and kept their
altitude lest the ground rise up and smite them there may be fewer
fatalities. Sometimes the rules make sense.
>>
Have you ever noticed how wide of a pattern most GA pilots fly, if they had
an engine out they would never make the field. And sometimes they fly so wide
you can barely see them. I find most instructors don't teach this very well.
I am glad mine did.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clive Hatcher" <clive_hatcher(at)connectfree.co.uk> |
Hi Kolbers,
I have one of the Carb Heat systems mentioned by Ole on my 582
Twinstar and have not had any problems since. The system heats the
carb and not the air, so that any ice that forms does not stick to the
side and block the "throat" of the carb. The system for the 582 uses
the cooling water as the heat source and the system for the air cooled
engines uses an electrical heater (about 20 watts I think). As the
temperature rise of the air is negligible there is no need to turn it
on and off in flight, most pilots in UK leave it on all the time.
The manufacturer of this system is Skydrive (e-mail :-
skydrive(at)avnet.co.uk)
If anybody is interested I could make a drawing of the heater.
Although I did not have an engine stop before I fitted the carb
heaters, I have had icing on several occasions.
Clive
G-MYLN
Previous message
------------------
From: Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: More on the icing thread
"what we use , is a gadget manufactured by a british company called
cyclone airsports. it's a sleeve that goes on the intake between the
carb and the air filter, and works by heating the carb body and
throat.
there is no power loss as with hot air carb heat. the gadget is made
in
two versions; one electrical unit, and one that uses coolant on 582's
et.al.
i'm enclosing a url to the British companys price-list.
http://www.pegasusaviation.co.uk/prices1.htm#rotaxess
ole
(always switching on carb heat when doing my lowpass in order to chase
the reindeer off our strip before landing.)"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
Randy wrote:
>
>
> Mike
> I filled the nicks and spayed the prop and then I mounted it on a
> computer spin balancer for motorcycle tires and it showed it was balanced
> the balancer will measure down to 1 Gram do you think that is good enough or
> what should I do . Also did you ever figure anything out on the VLS system
> for the Firestar Thanks Randy
Hi Randy.
I would invest in at least a cheap 'cone type' balancer. I think I have
seen them in the USUA mag for about 25 bucks. One end fits into the 1"
hole on the prop, and the other piece sits on the bench, pointy end up,
and you set the prop down over it. The motorcycle tire isnt turning
anywhere as fast as the prop is, so a 1 gram difference wont amount to
much on a bike,(unless yer doing 650 to 750 mph on the thing).
A gram is 1/28 th of an ounce, and will shake yer plane something
fierce. When I palance a wood prop, even tho I use Carver Tripps on the
whole prop to seal it up after the initial balance, I then put it back
on the balancer and use a can of cheap spray clear to add the
appropriate wisp of varnish to get it perfect. So you can see that even
a hundredth of a gram will matter when you are shooting for a
"Smoothie".
Mike
Olympic Ultralights
PS. Some of my messages must be on the surfaces of Mars with a bunch of
NASA equipment. My answer to you on the VLS for a older Kolb with the
linkage up front between the wings, was that you would have to fashion a
bracket to hold it above the linkage an inch or two of clearance, and
let the rest of the system protrude through the wing gap. You would then
modify the gap seal to fit over this. The result would be a bulge
between the wings, and how good or bad it looked would depend on how
well you fitted the cloth or vynel cover. I would figure a lump would be
worth the added safety....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aviation Screen Savers Calendar |
A while back I asked for some screen savers. Someone got back to me with an
address that changed planes each month with a calendar for use as a screen
save. Could you get back to me with the address again? I lost the thing.
Thanks for the help
(Please type "Thumbs" in the subject box so I don't miss your message.)
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
gbthacker(at)hotmail.com
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Noel Bouchard <noelbou(at)CAM.ORG> |
| Subject: | Problem in cold temp. |
Hello and Merry Christmas to all list readers ...
I have experienced a problem when flying by about 10 F ( -10 C) outside temp. The
motor (Rotax 503 DC) started without problem and the warmup was normal ... let
the
motor run for about 5 mins. and checkec the EGT temp at 4000 RMP and everything
normal ...
On the take off course when applying full power, the RPM would go to about 5000
RMP
and then go down to 4000 and sounded like "choking" ... I cut power immediately
and
tried 2 more time with same result ...
A friend of mine who owned the plane before (A Twinstar Mark II) had a similar
problem because of a carbon debris caught in a spark plug electrode ... so i checked
the plug which look ok (somewhat rich but normal after a 5 min warmup at low RPM)
and the carb cup were ok ...
I did another take off attempt ... with same result ... checked carburator cup
and
opened them to inspect for any ice ... or else ...
everything seemed normal.
We the tied the plane down and tried up to 6000 RPM (static) so i whent and this
time the RPM reached it 6500 RPM on take off
andf i was off ... for an uneventfull 1 hour flight. I landed at Sorel airport
and
took a 1/2 brake or so and left again ....
I was a bit worried that i would have the same problem and yes when applying full
power ... same thing BUT this time i just eased down on the throttle and then when
to full power but slowly and it went all right to 6500 RPM ... took off for a
problemless 1 hourt flight ...
I have adjusted the Needle position and recently changed the main jet from 158
to
165 and everything was fine in the
previous flight.
The temps were just perfect in this flight too (EGT = 1150 F) ... just that problem
when applying full power ...
This got me somewhat worried because the previous owner of the plane never
experienced this ...
Does anyone has experienced a similar problem in cold temps ?
Is this a normal behaviour and if not ... any tips to fix this ?
Sorry for the lenght of my post and forgive my ignorance of some o the subtelities
of the english language ...
Noel from Montreal
Kolb Mark II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Bing-floats that don't |
Hi Gang,
Thought I'd pass along a little tidbit that might be of some use. I have been
chasing down a gradually increasing mid range roughness. Without boring you
with the many, and futile, troubleshooting efforts I'll cut to the chase. I
found that one of the floats didn't float. It sat 3/4 submerged in fuel while
the other floated merrily at a reasonable level. Due to the fact that fuel
level is critical in these carbs this is a biggie. If you are experiencing
mid range problems you might check your floats. I do not have a clue how one
of these could become fuel-logged or whatever, but it surely don't float.
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
Someone wrote:
>I would invest in at least a cheap 'cone type' balancer. I think I have
>seen them in the USUA mag for about 25 bucks. One end fits into the 1"
>hole on the prop, and the other piece sits on the bench, pointy end up,
>and you set the prop down over it. The motorcycle tire isnt turning
>anywhere as fast as the prop is, so a 1 gram difference wont amount to
>much on a bike,(unless yer doing 650 to 750 mph on the thing).
>A gram is 1/28 th of an ounce, and will shake yer plane something
>fierce. When I palance a wood prop, even tho I use Carver Tripps on the
>whole prop to seal it up after the initial balance, I then put it back
>on the balancer and use a can of cheap spray clear to add the
>appropriate wisp of varnish to get it perfect. So you can see that even
>a hundredth of a gram will matter when you are shooting for a
>"Smoothie".
Prop balance is sometimes more complicated than it seems. A simple static
balance as described above will not positively gaurantee a smooth running
prop. Weight distribution plays a huge part in the picture. For example
you could have the following situation: You notice some big nicks in your
prop so you decide to balance it. The nicks are mostly on one blade, near
the root end. After sanding them smooth, you hang the prop for a static
balance and notice that (of course) the non-nicked blade is now heaver. So
you sand a little off the tip with your beltsander to make it balanced
statically. The problem you have now is that even though the two blades
weigh the same, the weight is distributed improperly. The blade that was
nicked weighs more at the tip, and the blade you sanded the tip of now
weighs more at the root. It will appear to hang perfectly, and show a nice
static balance on a bubble balancer. But when you spin it, it will be
wildly out of balance and shake you and your airframe. The reason is that
imbalance is really the centrifugal force created by a weight spinning a
certain distance from a center point. The idea is to have that weight AND
DISTANCE the same on each blade, so they cancel. Distance outward from
center multiplies the force.
A statically-balanced blade is not neccesarily dynamically balanced, but on
the other hand, a blade that is out of balance statically is definitely out
of balance dynamically.
Anyone have a plan for a home-built dynamic balance setup?
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
| Subject: | More on the icing thread |
After reading "The flight to remember" I noticed my heart was pounding and I
was in a cold sweat. Any pilot can relate to what this gentleman was
feeling, but few are that lucky. This article made me more determined than
ever to have (good) brakes on my next Firestar. He makes some good points in
his conclusion as well: especially, PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE.
You may think you can glide forever, but when the engine goes quiet you get
the opportunity to show what a quick decision maker you are. My rule of
thumb was; look for a touchdown point in the arc formed by looking down at a
45 degree angle from your present altitude. Slip and S-turn as needed if you
are too high. If you have to make a choice between hitting something at the
beginning of the landing or at the final part of rollout, always take the
latter like the gentlemen who recently bent his Drifter. Your speed and
inertia bleed off quite quickly in a Kolb and damage will be minimal. My
mentor (a lifetime bush pilot) also passed on this advice. If you have to go
down in a hostile area, select two matched objects like trees, electric
poles, fence posts, silos, etc., and aim for right between them. The wings
will absorb most of the impact and spare your precious payload.
Bruce E. Harrison
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem in cold temp. |
Possibly there is a load relationship between the prop and the engines
ability to put out power caused by the very dense cold air.If the air is
extra dense, then it would put an extra load on the prop, but that would
normally be balanced by the engines extra horsepower created by the denser air.
However it might be that the prop loads up faster than the engines
horsepower increases. Perhaps the prop is trying to pull more load at
4000-5000 RPM's before the engine has made a commensurate increase in
horsepower.
Or to put it another way, the load curve is now steeper, sooner, than the
power curve.
Are you are flying a three blade prop? A three blade prop seems to load up
the engine sooner in midrange, whereas a two blade seems to wait till
higher in the engines power curve before it starts to really load the
engine down IMHO.
If you are fortunate enough to be running a three blade IVO, change it to
a two-blade, add the little spacer blocks, repitch for your usual static
RPM's, and see what happens.
You can also do the same with a Warp, but you'll need to buy the two blade
hub plates.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Hello and Merry Christmas to all list readers ...
>
>I have experienced a problem when flying by about 10 F ( -10 C) outside
>temp. The
>motor (Rotax 503 DC) started without problem and the warmup was normal ...
>let the
>motor run for about 5 mins. and checkec the EGT temp at 4000 RMP and
everything
>normal ...
>
>On the take off course when applying full power, the RPM would go to about
>5000 RMP
>and then go down to 4000 and sounded like "choking" ... I cut power
>immediately and
>tried 2 more time with same result ...
>
>A friend of mine who owned the plane before (A Twinstar Mark II) had a similar
>problem because of a carbon debris caught in a spark plug electrode ... so i
>checked
>the plug which look ok (somewhat rich but normal after a 5 min warmup at low
>RPM)
>and the carb cup were ok ...
>
>I did another take off attempt ... with same result ... checked carburator
>cup and
>opened them to inspect for any ice ... or else ...
>everything seemed normal.
>
>We the tied the plane down and tried up to 6000 RPM (static) so i whent and
>this
>time the RPM reached it 6500 RPM on take off
>andf i was off ... for an uneventfull 1 hour flight. I landed at Sorel
>airport and
>took a 1/2 brake or so and left again ....
>
>I was a bit worried that i would have the same problem and yes when applying
>full
>power ... same thing BUT this time i just eased down on the throttle and
>then when
>to full power but slowly and it went all right to 6500 RPM ... took off for a
>problemless 1 hourt flight ...
>
>I have adjusted the Needle position and recently changed the main jet from
>158 to
>165 and everything was fine in the
>previous flight.
>
>The temps were just perfect in this flight too (EGT = 1150 F) ... just that
>problem
>when applying full power ...
>
>This got me somewhat worried because the previous owner of the plane never
>experienced this ...
>
>Does anyone has experienced a similar problem in cold temps ?
>Is this a normal behaviour and if not ... any tips to fix this ?
>
>Sorry for the lenght of my post and forgive my ignorance of some o the
>subtelities
>of the english language ...
>
>Noel from Montreal
>Kolb Mark II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Problem in cold temp. |
>I was a bit worried that i would have the same problem
and yes when applying
> >full
> >power ... same thing BUT this time i just eased down on the throttle and
> >then when
> >to full power but slowly and it went all right to 6500 RPM ...
> >Noel from Montreal
Noel and Gang:
Don't know if something was lost in translation or not, but
seemed like he might have been going full throttle too fast
too soon.
Reference above, when he eased the throtte in slowly, "it
went all right to 6500 rpm"..........
I get into the habit of going full throttle to quickly
because the 2 and 4 stroke Rotax engines will for the most
part operate under these circumstances. But at times when
slamming the throttle full open, the engine will balk
momentarily causing a severe "pucker factor." Montreal is
much colder than Alabama which would probably increase the
possibility of this symptom.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
Disclaimer: This will not work for a one piece wood prop. This applies to
multi-blade composite props that are out of balance.
This reminds me of the stuff that Radio Control helicopter pilots go through
to get a smooth running rotor head. What I used to do was balance the blades
individually and then balance the whole rotor head (in our case the whole
prop). I will describe the procedure and you decide if you think it is
applicable to Kolb props.
Start by making sure the total weight of each blade is the same (obvious,
right?). Then put each blade on a balance point and determine the cg of each
blade spanwise. See below. Use tracking tape on the light blade to bring the
cg of both blades to the same location.
root ___________________________________ tip
|
|
Now put the blades back in the hub and balance the whole unit. If you have
to add weight to either side, add it at the cg point. That way you won't
disturb the balance spanwise. It works for choppers. Have at it, Kolbers.
Bruce E. Harrison
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
Bruce E. Harrison wrote:
>
>
> Disclaimer: This will not work for a one piece wood prop. This applies to
> multi-blade composite props that are out of balance.
>
> balance as described above will not positively gaurantee a smooth running
> prop. Weight distribution plays a huge part in the picture.>
>
> This reminds me of the stuff that Radio Control helicopter pilots go through
> to get a smooth running rotor head. What I used to do was balance the blades
> individually and then balance the whole rotor head (in our case the whole
> prop). I will describe the procedure and you decide if you think it is
> applicable to Kolb props.
>
> Start by making sure the total weight of each blade is the same (obvious,
> right?). Then put each blade on a balance point and determine the cg of each
> blade spanwise. See below. Use tracking tape on the light blade to bring the
> cg of both blades to the same location.
>
> root ___________________________________ tip
> |
> |
>
> Now put the blades back in the hub and balance the whole unit. If you have
> to add weight to either side, add it at the cg point. That way you won't
> disturb the balance spanwise. It works for choppers. Have at it, Kolbers.
>
> Bruce E. Harrison
What is tracking tape?
What does one use to determine the individual blade weights to the
required precision (some have reported that a 1g difference will be a
significant problem)?
Does locate the balance point of the individual blades, using a knife
edge?
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Spark Plug Gapping |
Rotax 503 manual calls for spark plug gap of 0.016 +- 0.002.
Looked at my gapping tool and it only goes down to 0.025. Checked at
auto store and 0.020 was the smallest on the ones they sell. Called a
SkiDoo snowmobile place and they do not have any plug gappers. Looked
in the CPS catalogue and0.020 is the smallest size on their tool.
Where can one find a gapping tool to meet the Rotax specs?
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
To answer your 3 questions, Gil:
Tracking tape for helicopters is brightly colored and extremely sticky. It
allows you to watch the rotating blades and see if the tips are tracking
together. For checking tip tracking on an IVO/Warp/etc, rather than getting
their heads anywhere near the rotating prop, most people would tape a piece
of paper to the top of the boom directly underneath the prop. Rotate the
prop until one tip is over the paper, carefully mark it, then rotate and do
the same with the next blade. Tips should be tracking very close to
identical or I would check with manufacturer on how to improve tracking via
shims, bolt torque, etc. I assume a judicious amount of the stainless steel
leading edge tape would work well for balancing in place of the heli
tracking tape.
To weigh blades I use a beam balance (like chemistry teachers and drug
dealers use). Pawn shops usually have these for cheap $. I used to be the
former, not the latter, by the way.
On balancing the individual blades, yes, use a knife or other sharp edge to
determine the cg. These are just things that have helped me get smoother.
Bruce E. Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: prop balance
Bruce E. Harrison wrote:
>
See below. Use tracking tape on the light blade to bring the
> cg of both blades to the same location.
>
> root ___________________________________ tip
> |
> |
What is tracking tape?
What does one use to determine the individual blade weights to the
required precision (some have reported that a 1g difference will be a
significant problem)?
Does locate the balance point of the individual blades, using a knife
edge?
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gapping |
ggleiter(at)minn.net wrote:
>
>
> Where can one find a gapping tool to meet the Rotax specs?
>
> gil leiter
> MAPLEWOOD, MN
in europe, but thats so far away from you, you'd be better off by filing
it yourself using a micrometer to check for acceptable result. this plug
gapping is essential to easy starting,especially if you have ducati
ignition.
ole
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gapping |
I use a feeler guage.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gapping |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Gil, use a feeler gauge.
>
> Rotax 503 manual calls for spark plug gap of 0.016 +- 0.002.
> Looked at my gapping tool and it only goes down to 0.025. Checked
> at auto store and 0.020 was the smallest on the ones they sell.
> Called a SkiDoo snowmobile place and they do not have any plug gappers.
> Looked in the CPS catalogue and0.020 is the smallest size on their
tool.
>
> Where can one find a gapping tool to meet the Rotax specs?
>
> gil leiter
> MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
Jim is absolutely correct. Some years ago, I tangled with balancing a
customers' large "Casablanca" style ceiling fan that was wobbling at high
speed. With that, the blades are removable, so it would be simple just to
use a beam balancer, and match up 2 blades at a time, right ?? Sure ! ! !
It turns slowly enough that you could fairly easily see which blade was the
problem. I wound up using the back of a kitchen chair to teeter each blade
on, to find the center of balance of each, then using strips of duct tape to
add weight. Then more strips to make the total weights equal. Spent hours
at it, soaked with sweat, and swearing a blue streak, out of pure
stubbornness, ( stub-Bourne-ness ??) with only mediocre results. It still
swayed, but not nearly as bad. Frustrated Lar. Do
not Archive.
----- Original Message -----
> Prop balance is sometimes more complicated than it seems. A simple
static
> balance as described above will not positively gaurantee a smooth running
> prop. Weight distribution plays a huge part in the picture. For example
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gapping |
You'll find the wire type feeler gauges to be a little more accurate for
setting points and/or plugs. You should be able to find a set at most auto
parts stores. Let your fingers do the walking. Ole's idea should work too,
but use wire instead of flat pieces. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ggleiter(at)minn.net>
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 1:26 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Spark Plug Gapping
>
> Rotax 503 manual calls for spark plug gap of 0.016 +- 0.002.
>
> Looked at my gapping tool and it only goes down to 0.025. Checked at
> auto store and 0.020 was the smallest on the ones they sell. Called a
=====================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
I'm sure glad you clarified that, Bruce. Chuckle. Lar. Do not
Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce E. Harrison <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org>
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 1:21 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: prop balance
>
> To answer your 3 questions, Gil:
>
> Tracking tape for helicopters is brightly colored and extremely sticky. It
> allows you to watch the rotating blades and see if the tips are tracking
> together. For checking tip tracking on an IVO/Warp/etc, rather than
getting
> their heads anywhere near the rotating prop, most people would tape a
piece
> of paper to the top of the boom directly underneath the prop. Rotate the
> prop until one tip is over the paper, carefully mark it, then rotate and
do
> the same with the next blade. Tips should be tracking very close to
> identical or I would check with manufacturer on how to improve tracking
via
> shims, bolt torque, etc. I assume a judicious amount of the stainless
steel
> leading edge tape would work well for balancing in place of the heli
> tracking tape.
>
> To weigh blades I use a beam balance (like chemistry teachers and drug
> dealers use). Pawn shops usually have these for cheap $. I used to be the
> former, not the latter, by the way.
>
> On balancing the individual blades, yes, use a knife or other sharp edge
to
> determine the cg. These are just things that have helped me get smoother.
>
> Bruce E. Harrison
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
> Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 4:21 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: prop balance
>
>
> Bruce E. Harrison wrote:
> >
> See below. Use tracking tape on the light blade to bring the
> > cg of both blades to the same location.
> >
> > root ___________________________________ tip
> > |
> > |
> What is tracking tape?
>
> What does one use to determine the individual blade weights to the
> required precision (some have reported that a 1g difference will be a
> significant problem)?
>
> Does locate the balance point of the individual blades, using a knife
> edge?
>
> gil leiter
> MAPLEWOOD, MN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)gis.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/17/99 |
who ,but ulralight pilots,maybe bush pilots , would talk about stalling in ,
and they say we cant fly???C.D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)gis.net> |
| Subject: | Part 103 Compliance |
Dennis ; You must have nerves of steel to have put up with this prt.103
nonsense for so long !!! As a commercial fisherman constantly under fire
from the feds I am so tired of looking over my shoulder its easy to guess
why you might have decided to move on ! Much luck in the future and thanks
for hanging around the list your experence and wisdom is muchly
appreaciated . chris davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
Before I spend the money for a tool would like to know if I'm wasting my
money trying to balance a wooden prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gapping and feeler gauges |
I have use a feeler gauge for plug gapping for near 37 years. They have
always served me well. Cheap too. I still have the same one I bought back in
'67 when I use to work on my 55 Pontiac. Lots of places to use a feeler
gauge on those ol' cars. Just make sure that the electrode surfaces are
parallel after you think you are at your setting. If they are not, slide the
gauge in between the electrodes and take a light hammer and tap the ground
electrode at the bend. After you think you have it parallel check your
setting again.
Just thinking.
Firehawk
>From: HShack(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spark Plug Gapping
>Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 16:59:35 EST
>
>
>I use a feeler guage.
>
>Howard Shackleford
>FS I
>SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
Larry,
The way to really get a well balanced ceiling fan? --------
is to take the fan down and turn it on it's side with the blades attached to
the fan motor. As you know the heavy blade will always move to the bottom. I
have taught several electricians that have worked for me this trick before
I would let them hang one in a new house I build. Impresses most of the new
home buyers to see that the fans don't wobble. Now that you know my little
secret, you can go impress some of your friends.
This doesn't work at all on a prop if the blade CG is not at the same place
on each blade.
Passing it along,
Firehawk
>From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: prop balance
>Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 08:28:22 -0800
>
>
>Jim is absolutely correct. Some years ago, I tangled with balancing a
>customers' large "Casablanca" style ceiling fan that was wobbling at high
>speed. With that, the blades are removable, so it would be simple just to
>use a beam balancer, and match up 2 blades at a time, right ?? Sure ! ! !
>It turns slowly enough that you could fairly easily see which blade was the
>problem. I wound up using the back of a kitchen chair to teeter each blade
>on, to find the center of balance of each, then using strips of duct tape
>to
>add weight. Then more strips to make the total weights equal. Spent hours
>at it, soaked with sweat, and swearing a blue streak, out of pure
>stubbornness, ( stub-Bourne-ness ??) with only mediocre results. It still
>swayed, but not nearly as bad. Frustrated Lar.
>Do
>not Archive.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
> > Prop balance is sometimes more complicated than it seems. A simple
>static
> > balance as described above will not positively gaurantee a smooth
>running
> > prop. Weight distribution plays a huge part in the picture. For
>example
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Randy,
Not at all, balancing the prop is a necessity. I have never found that even
brand new propellers were properly balanced to my satisfaction. I have
always been pretty sentitive to vibration and I am simply not comfortable
flying something that has excessive vibration. Get some nicks, some
moisture accumulation, etc. and it only gets worse.
A simple bubble type balancer, usually available for less than $20 does a
great job - well worth the money.
For balancing in the tip-to-tip direction, spray can varnish does a good
job - just apply to the lighter tip. If the tips are painted red, then some
red paint would be called for. It takes some time because when you spray on
enough paint or varnish to balance it, it will not be balanced after the
paint dries. So it takes a number of applications.
For balance in the other axis perpendicular to the length of the prop, I
usually drilled a hole in the prop circle and added a piece of cut-off bolt
shank. This is held captive between the drive flange and the face plate.
On some props I needed to drill a hole through the hub and install a full
length piece of bolt shank.
Alternately you could use a longer prop bolt on the light side and add some
washers to establish balance.
Hope this helps
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 10:27 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: prop balance
Before I spend the money for a tool would like to know if I'm wasting my
money trying to balance a wooden prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
Pretty much. Especially if you can just buy a good composite prop.
I got a wood prop for my 582 in the beginning. I thought I had it balanced
and flew it for about 30 hours before I decided to try the IVO. Was I ever
supprized in the difference in smoothness and noise.
My plane by now would be worn out if I had stuck with the wood prop.
By the way I will sale it to anyone who will give me $100 and pay the
shipping. 70/46 Tennessee Prop
Firehawk
>From: "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Kolb"
>Subject: Kolb-List: prop balance
>Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 22:27:06 -0500
>
>
>Before I spend the money for a tool would like to know if I'm wasting my
>money trying to balance a wooden prop.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
>
> Before I spend the money for a tool would like to know if I'm wasting my
> money trying to balance a wooden prop.
Randy and Gang:
I flew with fixed pitch wooden props for many years. Trying
to keep them balanced was a way of life. Sorta like trying
to keep those old point ignition Rotax's timed correctly.
It was almost a constant thing.
Since 1993, and well over 1,100 hours I have been flying a
funny looking carbon fiber prop with little skinny blades.
I have yet to balance the blades. Why? Don't need to. That
is one problem I do not have, unbalanced prop blades.
john h
BTW: Warp Drive is sending me new 72 inch blades with 13
inch nickel edges. My old blades are 70 inchs with 11 inch
nickel edges. The extra two inches of leading edge
protection (these edges are not SS tape) will cover the 1.5
inches of rain erosion I presently get. Yep, rain will
erode carbon fiber. And yep, it will chew up an unprotected
wooden blade in a flash.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
Really enjoyed the articles about balancing props. Been flying RC planes
seems most of my live and I have a prop balancer built for the Big RC Planes.
It has a stand and rollers and the section that goes through your prop hub
hole has to have a modification but when you put it in the stand, a fly can
change the weight! I saw one land on my prop and it sank! You would have to
put very tall stand wires to rotate it for tracking but it will balance end
to end perfect. You then use your bubble balancer to balance side to side
and track it in on your plane. If you get vibration fro that, you have
something else wrong. I like the idea of CG balancing the Ivo first so I am
going to take mine back off and redo it. Takes a while but I have a 447 and
that shakes enough, dont need the prop doing it too. Great ideas guys. That
is why I like the Kolb list or rather the people who send in ideas. You were
right about Dennis S. having nerves of steel. Just with my questions alone,
would have turned the Pope. Good work guys. G'day Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Exhaust part question |
IF I remember correctly, there is a Rotax exhaust part that is a 90 degree
elbow and fits on the output end of the muffler, for the standard Kolb-type
Rotax side-mount exhaust system. Does anyone else remember seeing this
part? It also seems to me that I remember someone on this list is running
that part (on a 532?), and reports lower noise with its use. Am I right
there? I am thinking about trying this part, to reduce the exhaust
impinging on the prop as it does today, in hopes of lowering the noise
level. Any suggestions, input, experience?
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust part question |
I have a 532, and tried both the 90 degree outlet stubby pipe, and cut it
off, no noticable difference. Bit the bullet and got the Rotax weld-on
after muffler. Very satisfied, and the wife says that the airplane is way
quieter when I fly over. No jetting changes required.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>IF I remember correctly, there is a Rotax exhaust part that is a 90 degree
>elbow and fits on the output end of the muffler, for the standard Kolb-type
>Rotax side-mount exhaust system. Does anyone else remember seeing this
>part? It also seems to me that I remember someone on this list is running
>that part (on a 532?), and reports lower noise with its use. Am I right
>there? I am thinking about trying this part, to reduce the exhaust
>impinging on the prop as it does today, in hopes of lowering the noise
>level. Any suggestions, input, experience?
>
>Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
Hi John,
You may want to add an extra1/2 inch to the 13 " edge to cover the 1.5 inch
area inside the current nickle edge of your new 72 inch blade.
Current unprotected lenght is 35-11=24"
New unprotected lenght is 36-13=23 " ; the 13" is only covering 1" of the 1.5
"
area you wish to cover on the inside.
Is this correct?
Frank Reynen MKIII ser#022
http://www.webcom.com/reynen/mark3/html
Please respond to kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: prop balance
>
> Before I spend the money for a tool would like to know if I'm wasting my
> money trying to balance a wooden prop.
Randy and Gang:
I flew with fixed pitch wooden props for many years. Trying
to keep them balanced was a way of life. Sorta like trying
to keep those old point ignition Rotax's timed correctly.
It was almost a constant thing.
Since 1993, and well over 1,100 hours I have been flying a
funny looking carbon fiber prop with little skinny blades.
I have yet to balance the blades. Why? Don't need to. That
is one problem I do not have, unbalanced prop blades.
john h
BTW: Warp Drive is sending me new 72 inch blades with 13
inch nickel edges. My old blades are 70 inchs with 11 inch
nickel edges. The extra two inches of leading edge
protection (these edges are not SS tape) will cover the 1.5
inches of rain erosion I presently get. Yep, rain will
erode carbon fiber. And yep, it will chew up an unprotected
wooden blade in a flash.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
I also flew with a wood prop for many years and it is not a
maintenance-free prop. What is maintenance-free are the composite props.
I have an Ivo and I have never had to do any balancing except the first
time to verify it's precision. One other very important aspect to
consider is the fact that we are flying pushers. If anything center and
ahead of the prop decides to come off, guess where it's going? The
composites stand a much better chance of holding together than any wooden
prop under those circumstances.
Ralph
Original FS, 12 years flying
> Randy wrote:
> >
> >
> > Before I spend the money for a tool would like to know if I'm
> wasting my
> > money trying to balance a wooden prop.
> > <
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop balance |
the 13" is only covering 1" of the 1.5 "
> area you wish to cover on the inside.
> Is this correct?
>
> Frank Reynen MKIII ser#022
>
Frank and Kolbers:
I hope you are not correct. :-)
According to the "horses mouth" Darrel at Warp Drive, the
longer nickle edge will take care of the problem I have with
my old blades and rain.
I don't normally have a rain problem, except on these long
flights, especially the ones into Canada and Alaska. Even
then on my arrival back from Alaska to Arlington,
Washington, I was able to do a "field repair" on the erroded
areas with J&B Weld and some 400 grit wet/dry paper. Used
avgas to clean it up, applied the J&B Weld with a plastic
picnic knife before I went to bed. Got up the next morning,
sanded off the excess, and headed for the East Coast. No
problem.
Bob, who used to work for Warp Drive, was at Arlington when
I got there for the flyin. He took a look at the blades and
was concerned that air might get under the eroded area next
to the nickle edge and lift it. He even had some J&B Weld
with him.
john h
BTW: It takes a lot of hours flying in rain to make the
unprotected areas of the leading edge of the solid carbon
fiber blades erode. A heap more than a little rain shower.
On my arrival at Arlington I had flown 7 days straight in
the rain. It was good to see the sun in Arlington, dry out
and warm up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
Kolbers,
This morning I opened my home E-mail account at work, one of the E-mails
said it was from the Kolb list and that it was a bounced message. If you
guys see anything like this, don't open it!!! It was a new worm virus that
will send it self out to everyone in your address book and eat up your hard
drive files. I was lucky that I opened it at work, our company computer geek
was able to download the latest anti-virus program and finally get rid of it
before it started to send anything out of my computer. It took her close to
an hour to take care of it. She told me that it could pick various subjects
at will for the subject line. The anti-virus software is on line, so if I
were you, download it now.
I don't know for sure if it came from the Kolb list or not. I was sure
that Matt had a Firewall in place to take care of this sort of thing.
Later, and Happy Holidays!!
Dennis in Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
List,
A while back someone on the list said they could provide the amount of
federal funds an airport was receiving if we provided the airport ID. I sure
would like to find out how much our county airport is getting, the ID is
"2W6" also "FME" which is an ex military field. Any help would be
appreciated.
Thanks,
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)desupernet.net> |
Dennis
Did it have a blue page and say something like Hypercool Happy New Year 2000
funny programs etc. If so it came to me several time from the Kolb list,
once from you. It looked suspicious and I didn't open it.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Watson
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 1:48 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Virus Warning
Kolbers,
This morning I opened my home E-mail account at work, one of the E-mails
said it was from the Kolb list and that it was a bounced message. If you
guys see anything like this, don't open it!!! It was a new worm virus that
will send it self out to everyone in your address book and eat up your hard
drive files. I was lucky that I opened it at work, our company computer geek
was able to download the latest anti-virus program and finally get rid of it
before it started to send anything out of my computer. It took her close to
an hour to take care of it. She told me that it could pick various subjects
at will for the subject line. The anti-virus software is on line, so if I
were you, download it now.
I don't know for sure if it came from the Kolb list or not. I was sure
that Matt had a Firewall in place to take care of this sort of thing.
Later, and Happy Holidays!!
Dennis in Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Virus Warning |
Terry,
Yep, that's it, please don't think that I sent it. Our administrator said it
has that capability. The only e-mail I have sent today was to our government
office and my last two to the list.
Good Luck
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry <tswartz(at)desupernet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 2:32 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Virus Warning
>
> Dennis
>
> Did it have a blue page and say something like Hypercool Happy New Year
2000
> funny programs etc. If so it came to me several time from the Kolb list,
> once from you. It looked suspicious and I didn't open it.
>
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Watson
> Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 1:48 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Virus Warning
>
>
> Kolbers,
> This morning I opened my home E-mail account at work, one of the E-mails
> said it was from the Kolb list and that it was a bounced message. If you
> guys see anything like this, don't open it!!! It was a new worm virus that
> will send it self out to everyone in your address book and eat up your
hard
> drive files. I was lucky that I opened it at work, our company computer
geek
> was able to download the latest anti-virus program and finally get rid of
it
> before it started to send anything out of my computer. It took her close
to
> an hour to take care of it. She told me that it could pick various
subjects
> at will for the subject line. The anti-virus software is on line, so if I
> were you, download it now.
> I don't know for sure if it came from the Kolb list or not. I was sure
> that Matt had a Firewall in place to take care of this sort of thing.
>
> Later, and Happy Holidays!!
> Dennis in Maryland
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: Virus Warning |
Dennis Watson wrote:
>
>
> Terry,
> Yep, that's it, please don't think that I sent it. Our administrator said it
> has that capability. The only e-mail I have sent today was to our government
> office and my last two to the list.
> Good Luck
> Dennis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Terry <tswartz(at)desupernet.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 2:32 PM
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Virus Warning
>
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> > Did it have a blue page and say something like Hypercool Happy New Year
> 2000
> > funny programs etc. If so it came to me several time from the Kolb list,
> > once from you. It looked suspicious and I didn't open it.
> >
> > Terry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Watson
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 1:48 PM
> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Kolb-List: Virus Warning
> >
> >
> >
> > Kolbers,
> > This morning I opened my home E-mail account at work, one of the E-mails
> > said it was from the Kolb list and that it was a bounced message. If you
> > guys see anything like this, don't open it!!! It was a new worm virus that
> > will send it self out to everyone in your address book and eat up your
> hard
> > drive files. I was lucky that I opened it at work, our company computer
> geek
> > was able to download the latest anti-virus program and finally get rid of
> it
> > before it started to send anything out of my computer. It took her close
> to
> > an hour to take care of it. She told me that it could pick various
> subjects
> > at will for the subject line. The anti-virus software is on line, so if I
> > were you, download it now.
> > I don't know for sure if it came from the Kolb list or not. I was sure
> > that Matt had a Firewall in place to take care of this sort of thing.
> >
> > Later, and Happy Holidays!!
> > Dennis in Maryland
Are you refering to an attatchment to the e-mail? As a general
protection NEVER open an attatchment from someone you don't know.
Also, if an e-mail frome someone you DO know arrives with an attatchment
and your friend did not mention that it would be there check with
him/her about it before opening it.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Kolb-List: Virus Warning" (Dec 21, 11:14am)
| Subject: | Re: More On Virus Attack... [PLEASE READ] |
>--------------
>
>Kolbers,
>This morning I opened my home E-mail account at work, one of the E-mails
>said it was from the Kolb list and that it was a bounced message. If you
>guys see anything like this, don't open it!!! It was a new worm virus that
>will send it self out to everyone in your address book and eat up your hard
>drive files. I was lucky that I opened it at work, our company computer geek
>was able to download the latest anti-virus program and finally get rid of it
>before it started to send anything out of my computer. It took her close to
>an hour to take care of it. She told me that it could pick various subjects
>at will for the subject line. The anti-virus software is on line, so if I
>were you, download it now.
> I don't know for sure if it came from the Kolb list or not. I was sure
>that Matt had a Firewall in place to take care of this sort of thing.
>
>Later, and Happy Holidays!!
>Dennis in Maryland
>--------------
Dear Kolb Listers,
This exact thing happeded on the Zenith-List this weekend. Below is a
message I posted to the Zenith-List regarding the specifics and how to
tell if the message *really* came from Matronics or not. The bottom
line is that you cannot recieve a enclosure from the Matronics List
server because I have a filter in place that restricts this. Someone is
forging their email headers making it look like the message is coming
from the List, but it in fact is not. Please read the message below for
more detail.
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
===============================================================================
Dear Listers,
A couple of List members have forwarded copies of the messages that
contained the virus. I have examined the headers and have come to an
interesting conclusion. Below, I have included the headers and first
few lines from three separate messages supposedly from the Zenith-List.
The first message is a genuine List message sent by Matronics. The
second two are Virus messages. Note the following characteristics
of these messages:
* The "From " line in the valid message is shown as
"owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com". This header was not
included in the two Virus examples I was sent, but I'm willing to bet
it wasn't set to the "owner-zenith-list-server" address.
* The "From: " line in the valid message is show as "Chuck Deiterich
" the actual SENDER of the message. The Virus
messages show "zenith-list(at)matronics.com" as the sender.
* The "To: " line in the valid message is shown as "zenith-list
". The Virus messages show the specific
person it was delivered to in the "To:" line.
* The Tag Line "--> Zenith-List message posted by..." is always
prepended to the beginning of each message sent by the Zenith-List.
This is missing from both of the virus messages.
So, the bottom line is it appears that someone is masquerading as the
zenith-list by changing the headers on their message and sending it to
some subset of the members on the zenith-list. Not everyone is
receiving these messages; I for one did not. Munging around with email
headers to make the mail look like it came from somewhere else is pretty
easy to do and a common thing done by spammers these days. It would
appear that whoever is doing this particular Virus job is pretty
clueless when it comes to the whole process as the only thing they have
emulated correctly was including the string "Zenith-List:" in the
subject line.
Since I'm not connected in anyway to the person or persons doing this,
and they are doing it from systems that aren't here at Matronics, there
isn't anything I can really do to stop it. About the only thing you can
do to protect yourself is to verify that the messages that show up in
your email box are "from the zenith-list", have the "--> Zenith-List"
tag line, and are addressed *TO* the zenith-list, and not to you
directly. Also, if the message contains an enclosure of any kind, it
definitely didn't come from the Lists here at Matronics.
My apologies for this hassle. It's really ashame that people have to
act this way.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
### MESSAGE HEADER EXAMPLES ###
=============== REAL MSG RECEIVED FROM ZENITH-LIST ===============
>From owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com Sat Dec 18 11:20:12 1999
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 13:05:52 -0600
From: Chuck Deiterich <cfd(at)tstar.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: CH 701
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Chuck Deiterich
My tail feathers except for horns are done, so are wing skeletons, and
<...snip...>
==================================================================
====================== VIRUS MSG - EXAMPLE #1 =====================
From: zenith-list(at)matronics.com <zenith-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Saturday, December 18, 1999 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Nav light grounding
http://stuart.messagemates.com/index.html
<...snip...>
==================================================================
====================== VIRUS MSG - EXAMPLE #2 =====================
From: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 1999 12:02 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 701 changes, weight, cg, plumbing
http://stuart.messagemates.com/index.html
<...snip...>
==================================================================
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | carb heat for 912 |
i have read a bit lately about carb heat on 2 strokes. what about 912, are
the
heaters that heat the carb body ok or do i need to duct in some hot air?
byoung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sharp" <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Electrical question. |
Folks,
When I try the archives they become Demon Possesed... Have we ever talked
about which battery everyone recomends?? I'm installing a 582 with electric
start and a hotbox with strobes. etc......... I'm starting to collect my
"stuff" for installation.....
thanks,
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Flying Santa |
Merry Christmas to all on the Kolb list.
Thought you would all enjoy this !
Kent
From: "k md" <firestar41(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Fwd: Flying Santa
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 00:43:56 GMT
>From: f1606d(at)excite.com
>Reply-To:
>Subject: Flying Santa
>Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 19:33:43 -0800 (PST)
>
>
>Santa Renews His Pilots License
> --------------------
>Santa Claus, like all pilots, gets regular visits from
>the Federal Aviation Administration, and it was shortly before
>Christmas when the FAA examiner arrived. In preparation, Santa
>had the elves wash the sled and bathe all the reindeer. Santa got his
>logbook out and made sure all his paperwork was in order.
>The examiner walked slowly around the sled. He checked the reindeer
>harnesses, the landing gear, and Rudolf's nose. He painstakingly
>reviewed Santa's weight and balance calculations for the sled's
>enormous payload.
>
>Finally, they were ready for the checkride. Santa got in and fastened
>his seatbelt and shoulder harness and checked the compass. Then the
>examiner hopped in carrying, to Santa's surprise, a shotgun.
>
>"What's that for?" asked Santa incredulously.
>
>The examiner winked and said, "I'm not supposed to tell you this, but
>you're gonna lose an engine on takeoff."
>
>
>Visit Excite Shopping at http://shopping.excite.com
> The fastest way to find your Holiday gift this season
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Bruner <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: virus damage = low traffic |
If you ran the attached file, like the dummy I am, then I'd strongly
suggest you go to:
http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/worm.newapt.html
for info about how to remove this worm virus from your PC. You may THINK
it's gone...
David Bruner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spark Plug Gapping |
In case nobody mentioned it, look for a set of valve clearance feeler
gauges. They get very tiny. However, with those you might have to put
two of them together to get the .016!
ggleiter(at)minn.net wrote:
>
>
> Rotax 503 manual calls for spark plug gap of 0.016 +- 0.002.
>
> Looked at my gapping tool and it only goes down to 0.025. Checked at
> auto store and 0.020 was the smallest on the ones they sell. Called a
> SkiDoo snowmobile place and they do not have any plug gappers. Looked
> in the CPS catalogue and0.020 is the smallest size on their tool.
>
> Where can one find a gapping tool to meet the Rotax specs?
>
> gil leiter
> MAPLEWOOD, MN
>
--
****************************************************
* Bill Weber * Thunder's just the noise *
* Simi Valley, CA * Lightning does the work *
****************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
Hey Gang,
I am replacing my 582 with a 912 on my SlingShot , I have searched
the manuals, but found no information on the oil return line fitting on the
bottom
side of engine. It appears there are two locations this fitting can go, at
the
bottom front or bottom rear(prop end) it comes installed in the front , it
makes
sense to me that it ought to be moved to the bottom rear(prop end) I think ?
The rear would be the lowest point while on ground and climbout.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical question. |
>
>
>Folks,
>
>When I try the archives they become Demon Possesed... Have we ever talked
>about which battery everyone recomends?? I'm installing a 582 with electric
>start and a hotbox with strobes. etc......... I'm starting to collect my
>"stuff" for installation.....
>
>thanks,
>
>mike
The 15-17 a.h. sealed lead acid batteries offered by
Panasonic, Powersonic, Yuasa, and others is an excellent
value. Approx 3 x 7 x 7 inches and 13 -15 pounds, you
can get these batteries from most Battery Mart type
storefonts for $60 or so.
Bob . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical question. |
Have we ever talked
> about which battery everyone recomends?? I
> mike
Don't know Mike:
I have been using the 14 amp motorcycle bat from Wal-Mart
since I got my first elec start in 1991. Biggest problem on
the 912 was above the Arctic Circle, below freezing temps,
if I didn't fly the airplane every day the battery would not
have enough umph! to get it turning the 200 rpm plus
required to fire the 912 ign. Then a little help from a
friend was in order.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Oil Return |
John Russell wrote:
>
>
it
> makes
> sense to me that it ought to be moved to the bottom rear(prop end) I think ?
> Thanks John
John and Kolbers:
Yep. That is what I figured also. Engine is shipped in the
tractor configuration. I moved mine to the rear, nearest
the prop, in the pusher config. Look at the parts blowup.
There is an oil tube that drains oil from the high side of
the crank case to the low side so it can scavenge as much as
possible to the oil tank, oil cooler, and oil pump.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brain Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical question. |
I have read a number of posts stating that the 582 with Ducati ignition
need a fast spin speed to start in summer. I live in Canada and fly all
winter. A summer battery will not cut it in the winter when the 582 needs
extra battery energy to start. I have a gel cell that puts out over 500
cold cranking amps. The darn thing is over 25 lbs. but will do the job
with lots to spare.
Kim Steiner
Saskatchewan, Canada
----------
> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Electrical question.
> Date: Thursday, December 23, 1999 8:39 AM
>
>
> >
> >
> >Folks,
> >
> >When I try the archives they become Demon Possesed... Have we ever
talked
> >about which battery everyone recomends?? I'm installing a 582 with
electric
> >start and a hotbox with strobes. etc......... I'm starting to collect my
> >"stuff" for installation.....
> >
> >thanks,
> >
> >mike
>
> The 15-17 a.h. sealed lead acid batteries offered by
> Panasonic, Powersonic, Yuasa, and others is an excellent
> value. Approx 3 x 7 x 7 inches and 13 -15 pounds, you
> can get these batteries from most Battery Mart type
> storefonts for $60 or so.
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Kolb-List Digest: 12/21/99 |
> Too late!! The prop has already tasted the wrath of a Northwest
>Rainshower! She swelled so fast I never had time to hit the mag
>switches! I heard the agonizing slam as a prop blade, now two or three
>feet longer, hit the tail boom and cut er` off, clean as any good Makita
>chopsaw ever could!
>
A friend of mine had a similar experience but with the loss of the boom he
remembered the words of his instructor and started praying to Budda.
Suddenly a big red hand came out of the sky and grabbed his airplane and set
it down gently as you please on a nice green meadow. My friend then opened
his eyes looked around, saw he was safe and promptly exclaimed "Thank God".
The giant red hand then just as promptly squashed him.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Flying Santa |
Peter Volum wrote:
>
>
> You are missing the point entirely Woody!
>
yes, i'm missing it enrirely !
when i'm flyging in the wintertime, the reindeer ar something thats clog
up my landing area and has to be removed in a shepheardly lowpass on my
behalf, not something that interferes with my airworthiness !!!!!
merry x-mas to ya all from Norway, the land where Santa buys his
reideer..
ole
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Flying Santa |
Hey Ole, Know any good Swedish jokes?
Ole Noetnes wrote:
>
> Peter Volum wrote:
> >
> >
> > You are missing the point entirely Woody!
> >
> yes, i'm missing it enrirely !
> when i'm flyging in the wintertime, the reindeer ar something thats clog
> up my landing area and has to be removed in a shepheardly lowpass on my
> behalf, not something that interferes with my airworthiness !!!!!
>
> merry x-mas to ya all from Norway, the land where Santa buys his
> reideer..
>
> ole
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Kolb-List Digest: 12/21/99 |
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
>
> Obviously talented men who have been there, done that. No B.S. in this
> crowd. Now if we could only resolve the Santa question so neatly. A quick
> glance at the trusty globe shows me that he's close to Danish and Norske
> territory. Whaddaya say Ole ?? Either way he's a Scandahoovian, right ??
> Well yah, Canadian too, eh ?? But worst of all - look for yourselves -
> Could It Be ?? A Russian Santa ?? Oh No ! ! !
> Sad Lar.
rest assured, Lar: the main discussion in our part of the world is
whether he has his homebase in Finland or in Norway.
ole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "merle hargis" <merlepilar(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Happy Holiday |
Happy Holiday to all and may you all have tail winds and beautful blue skys.
Merle & Pilar Hargis
Twinstar in Orlando, Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Happy Holiday |
Merry Christmas to all. You reckon Santa rides a Kolb?
Bil Mk III sn 213 The "Millennium Bug"
merle hargis wrote:
>
> Happy Holiday to all and may you all have tail winds and beautful blue skys.
> Merle & Pilar Hargis
> Twinstar in Orlando, Florida
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Worthington" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/23/99 |
The battery being tested by Flightstar weighs only 4 pounds. The cost is
$70-$80
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/23/99 |
That's been my understanding too, but it's not on their website, Bob
Nuckolls ignores questions on it, and nobody else knows nuthin'.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Vic Worthington <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Sent: Friday, December 24, 1999 8:45 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/23/99
>
> The battery being tested by Flightstar weighs only 4 pounds. The cost is
> $70-$80
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Ping" <hping(at)hyperaction.net> |
| Subject: | SOMEBODY STOLE MY ULTRALIGHT.COM |
Early this morning, after I opened my present, a shiny pair of
B8ES's, from my over gracious wife, I went out on the porch for
a breath of fresh air. I heard my neighbor's coon hound barking
ferociously. As I looked towards the barn or (hangar where I
keep the Blackbird), I noticed the hound jumping as far up on
the side of the barn as he could, and each time he came down
his toenails peeled off more white paint from my new
aluminum siding. He was swinging about ten feet of log chain
from his neck, and each time he jumped up the chain would
knock more dent's in the aluminum. I threw rocks at him,
kicked him, he just wouldn't stop!!!
I walked around to the front of the barn. I couldn't believe it!!!
My Plane Is Missing!!!
Then I noticed a bright light on top of the barn. I ain't believing
this!!! Somebody stuck a single flash Kuntzleman on a goat's
nose, and on top of that painted it red. No wonder the ole
hound was destroying my aluminum siding. Well strange
things have happened down in this hollar but this ones headed
towards the top of the list. I backed off from the barn a little so
I could see down the roofline of the barn. OH ME !! more of
them!! There must be a dozen inter-breed goats on the roof and
about once each minute a black marble sized object rolls
out of their exhaust pipe and rolls down the tin roof
and ker-plop on the ground, the hangar's beginning to smell like a
hog lot.
And farther back behind the goats was the most unairworthy
vehicle I've ever seen in my life!! Couldn't find the N number
(probably flying under 103 no wonder we get a bad rap), but he
did have a KYU number (I guess that's for stopping in rest
areas). Anyway, his air-vehicle looked like a wrecked coal truck
less the engine nacelle and someone had taken the wheels off
and replaced them with 2x6's about 20 feet long for sled
runners. I could see that this contraption didn't have any
business near my ultralight strip with that idiot goat up there
blinking his nose, it won't be long until the FAA gets wind of it
and then I'll be in trouble. Us ultralighters are forced to keep a
low profile.
My guess is, his animals got tired and he still had a lot of
presents to deliver so he borrowed my plane. If he don't come
back soon, I'm going to take those inter-breed goats he calls
reindeer over to the stockyard at London and get rid of them
and bust up that sled he calls an air-vehicle for firewood.
Even if he don't bring my plane back I have too much heart to
get a warrant for Santa Claus!
Howard
http://www.hyperaction.net/hping
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Ping" <hping(at)hyperaction.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/23/99 |
Steve
I ran oil pumps on two trail bikes a 115 h.p. Johnson outboard
and I am running them on my 503 and a Polaris 4 wheeler. No
problems yet!
Howard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/23/99 |
In a message dated 12/25/99 2:10:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, N51SK(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Anybody care to comment on the idea? >>
Bad idea in my view. The metering pump decreases the oil in the mixture at
idle and lower throttle settings and thus prevents carbon build up. If you
are worried about starving you engine for oil go out and get the large rotax
oil reservoir. They make them translucent so you can see how much you have
and they have a provision for an idiot light if it gets below a certain level.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Oil injection disable, 582 |
In a message dated 12/24/99 9:15:32 PM, N51SK(at)aol.com writes:
<< But on another front.....Has anybody ever taken the oil injection off a
582?
Seems like that might be one less thing to worry about in flight (is the
oil pump metering properly) Anybody care to comment on the idea? I'm sure
there's stuff in the archives but it's been awhile since I've been there and
I forgot how. A friend of mine just cooked his 582 by starving it for oil.
That doesn't happen to those of us who fly engines
that require mixing the oil (assuming we're careful in the mixing process)
>>
Steve and Gang,
Was going to pose the question myself. Oil injection IMHO is "a good thing".
It meters the oil ratio releative to throttle opening giving less when you
don't need it more when you do. It also precludes having a mix get stale and
gunk up the fuel system
However, I have had a midrange roughness problem and have eliminated all
other possibilities, i.e., carbs, boots, exhaust, prop, plugs, etc. It seems
like the arm does not completely return to idle when the throttle is reduced.
The spring seems weak and there is a binding feel to the arm at lower angles.
EGTs are good and plugs are good color, but are wet with oil.
I would like to disable the injection system for testing purposes, but a note
in the manual says to keep oil flowing to the pump to keep it from being
damaged. So where does one cap it off? I'd like to test it with a pre mix
before I go any further.
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil injection disable, 582 |
WGeorge737(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 12/24/99 9:15:32 PM, N51SK(at)aol.com writes:
>
> << But on another front.....Has anybody ever taken the oil injection off a
> 582?
> Seems like that might be one less thing to worry about in flight (is the
> oil pump metering properly) Anybody care to comment on the idea? I'm sure
> there's stuff in the archives but it's been awhile since I've been there and
> I forgot how. A friend of mine just cooked his 582 by starving it for oil.
> That doesn't happen to those of us who fly engines
> that require mixing the oil (assuming we're careful in the mixing process)
> >>
>
> Steve and Gang,
>
> Was going to pose the question myself. Oil injection IMHO is "a good thing".
> It meters the oil ratio releative to throttle opening giving less when you
> don't need it more when you do. It also precludes having a mix get stale and
> gunk up the fuel system
>
> However, I have had a midrange roughness problem and have eliminated all
> other possibilities, i.e., carbs, boots, exhaust, prop, plugs, etc. It seems
> like the arm does not completely return to idle when the throttle is reduced.
> The spring seems weak and there is a binding feel to the arm at lower angles.
> EGTs are good and plugs are good color, but are wet with oil.
>
> I would like to disable the injection system for testing purposes, but a note
> in the manual says to keep oil flowing to the pump to keep it from being
> damaged. So where does one cap it off? I'd like to test it with a pr
Hi Bill. The pump cable is possibly frayed inside. Check it out. The
pump spring is agreeably not very strong, so one of my trainers has a
coil spring I added, but do remove, clean, and inspect the pump cable.
The right frequency vibration will cause them to fray inside. Ruin yer
day if it broke.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil injection disable, 582 |
Why cap it off? Just unplug the two small lines at the point where they
enter the intakes, plug the intake holes, hook the now loose oil lines to a
little "T", run an overflow line to a catch botttle tie wrapped to a
convenient place, add pre mix, go fly. Land, dump catch bottle back in the
main tank, think about results. Small "T's" available at WalMart goldfish
supply area.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>I would like to disable the injection system for testing purposes, but a note
>in the manual says to keep oil flowing to the pump to keep it from being
>damaged. So where does one cap it off? I'd like to test it with a pre mix
>before I go any further.
>
>Bill George
>Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil injection disable, 582 |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> Why cap it off? Just unplug the two small lines at the point where they
> enter the intakes, plug the intake holes, hook the now loose oil lines<
Dont forget to remove the CDI ignition and throw it away too, as it may
also fail. Lets see, ... get rid of the liquid balancer(extra weight),
and toss the radiator too. We can build a free air duct and keep it cool
enough. Way too many complex parts on that sucker anyway.
Lets see now.... about that 1999 car out there in the driveway...
Mike Brown
The least knowlageable Rotax mech in the USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brain Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil injection disable, 582 |
when I set my 582 up about 8 years ago I soldered all cable ends to the
holder that fits
in the 3 to 1 junction. All cables slide as one unit. I noticed that the
return spring for the oil injection
cable was not quite strong enough to provide a positive cable return. I
have disassembled the 3 to 1 junction
a number of times and have found no abnormal wear. When cable replacement
is required additional work
is involved as the cable ends must be de-soldered. I have replaced the
main cable several years ago as
I felt it was under the most tension. I did not find any abnormal wear on
it.
Kim Steiner
Saskatchewan, Canada
>
> Hi Bill. The pump cable is possibly frayed inside. Check it out. The
> pump spring is agreeably not very strong, so one of my trainers has a
> coil spring I added, but do remove, clean, and inspect the pump cable.
> The right frequency vibration will cause them to fray inside. Ruin yer
> day if it broke.
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Friend in Tallahassee |
I promptly lost your E-mail while trying to print on my balky computer. I
believe I met Jim at our last EAA Xmas dinner meeting. He asked me to send
him some info but I have not been able to make his E-mail address work. I'll
see him at the next meeting if not at the airport. I live on the East side of
Tallahassee and have a hangar at the Quincy/Gadsden County Airport where I
keep my FireFly. Right now I am fighting off a Xmas cold and not able to do
much else. I'm dying to get back to the airport and get in some flight time.
Stay in touch and let me know if you ever get up our way. Duane Mitchell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil injection disable, 582 |
> Why cap it off? Just unplug the two small lines at the point where they
> Richard Pike
> >I would like to disable the injection system for testing purposes, but a note
> >in the manual says to keep oil flowing to the pump to keep it from being
> >damaged. So where does one cap it off? I'd like to test it with a pre mix
> >before I go any further.
> >
> >Bill George
Morning Gang:
I don't have but a couple hundred hours flying my own 582
with oil injection, but I have flown quite a bit in the
factory MK III and SS that were 582 oil injected. I
personally like the system. I was amazed the first cross
country I made to Sun and Fun 93. Made my first fuel stop
at Perry, Florida, and was surprised how little oil was used
from the oil tank. It seemed to be so little I was
concerned the Mikuni oil pump was doing its job. I also
flew that engine to Old Kolb Co in Penn and to OSH 93. Took
all the guess work out of mixing fuel. Simplified fuel
stops. All the advantages, to me, far out weighed the
additional cable, tubing, and tank. I can not back this up
but, I believe the fuel mix formula as well as the oil pump
to fuel ratio are bracketed. 50 to 1 is optimum for premix
and when the marks line up on the oil pump you are in the
ball park. If either premix or oil pump adj deviates up or
down in these brackets a little, it will not make or break
the engine. I believe it will operate best when we try to
operate as described in the book.
I don't think Rotax or any other 2 cycle eng manufacturer
will ever build an eng that will act and perform like a 4
cycle. I can not make them run smoothly throughout their
entire RPM band. Somewhere they will get a little rich, a
little too much fuel and not quite enough load, and they
will "two cycle" or sound like they are not running
smoothly. We interpret this condition as being incorrect
and start trying to fix it. By trying to fix it we upset
something else, and on and on. Without a load, at midrange,
my weed eater, chain saw, outboard motor, all "two cycle".
But when I put a load on them and they need that extra fuel,
they clean right up and run as smoothly as a 4 cycle.
My philosophy for setting up and flying a 2 stroke is:
Take the engine out of the box and put it on the airplane.
Break it in like Rotax describes.
Prop the eng to the aircraft - bump the red line WOT
straight and level flight.
Forget about "precision" adjustments of EGT and CHT (don't
think anyone is flying with precision gauges).
Don't "baby it", keep it happy by feeding it fresh fuel,
oil, clean air, and give it a lot of exercise.
Operate the engine above 5300 to 5500 RPM. The engine
"comes on the pipe" (similar to coming up on the cam shaft
in a 4 cycle) at these RPM and operates more efficiently,
puts out more HP, and runs smoother and cleaner.
The engine is set up at the factory to operate at: sea level
to 1500 feet or meters (don't remember), and 32F to 90F (or
there abouts). It is up to us to load the prop accordingly
to adj the EGT. I don't concern myself with cyl head temp
unless it is on the high side. I am not going to bet a $5
or $6 thousand dollar engine on a "toy" eng gauge. Besides,
I have no gauges on my weed eater, chain saw, or Evinrude
20HP. They don't care either. ;-)
I do not see anything wrong with "experimenting" with
engines and airplanes. Heck, I thought that was what it was
all about. Not much of my "stuff" is stock out of the box,
that includes airplanes, trucks, tractors, boats, mountain
bikes, etc. Experimenting is half the fun.
Some of us can accept others' results from "experimenting"
and some of us have to "see for ourselves".
Personally I do not think Bill G's rough eng at midrange is
being caused by the Mikuni Oil Pump.
Better let you guys have the List. I am working on day 7 of
a "good" case of bronchitis. The weather is cool and clear
as a bell in Alabama. Got a new Lite Speed 20XL headset I
want to "experiment" with in the air. But it will be a
while before I get to do that. Guess I can go down stairs
in the shop and make loud noises and see it they work.
hehehe
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil injection disable, 582 |
Hi John,
Sorry you are having the winter style illness. Agree totally with your
comments. I wouldn't have started messing with it if it had always been thus.
But this condition slowly crept up on me and, like the proverbial bull dog,
I'm after it.
It's probably not the pump itself. I think that if the little arm stays in
the high flow position when throttle is reduced the mix is going to be at too
low a ratio. When I pulled the carbs I saw two stroke oil in the bottom of
the intake ports and there is always a drop or two coming out of the hole in
the case that connects engine to drive box. Being a Rotax neophyte, I don't
know if this is normal or not.
If I can get the system disconnected for a test hop I will be able to
determine if that is the problem. Naturally, today is bright and clear with
light winds. By the time I get this sorted out it'll be back to the usual
25-30 ;-(
Get well.
Bill George
Mountain Meadow Ranch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil injection disable, 582 |
Bill:
Oil residue is going to be a way of life with 2 cycle
engines, especially at low power settings and idle. It
sticks to the inside of things and the fuel evaporates or is
sucked thru the eng cause it is lighter. Oil is doing the
same thing throughout the eng. That is why we see a cloud
of blue smoke when we go full throttle. The engine is
clearing itself of that excess oil.
Good luck with your engine. Screwing around with it is the
way you are gonna learn. Sometimes we make mistakes and
sometimes we don't, but we learn in the process.
Is it me or what? This guy "Mike Brown" rubs me the wrong
way and I can not help it. I am cautious anytime I meet a
condescending instant expert. This is just between me and
you. I respect your mature judgment and years of dealing
with the public in your type of work.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil injection disable, 582 |
John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> Bill:
>
>
Hey Gang:
The referenced msg was intended to be a bc msg to Bill. Was
not intended to be sent to the List.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Frank Beagle's Email |
Hey Gang:
Anybody got an email address for Frank Beagle, "The Mouth"
down on the farm at Oshkosh, hometown: Kankakee, Il??
Thanks,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil injection disable, 582 |
Yeah John. I figure my perfectionist attitude will cause more problems that
it solves :-) I have a penchant for getting the max out my motors, etc. I
had it really nice for a time after I put on the new Powerfin and got it
pitched right. I'll post the results when I get this sorted out.
Re Mike Brown, I don't have enough experience in these things to be too
discerning but he seems to have spent a lot of time in ultralights.
Also, haven't seen a recent post from the guy who installed the Jabiru. Very
curious about that engine in the Mk-3 config.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/25/99 |
>>>>3000+ hours with 1 engine failure(not oil related)(also never seen an
oil pump failure), but what do I know?<<<<
I have had a oil pump fail on a snowmobile ingine, it can happen
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Oil injection disable |
>>>>>I would like to disable the injection system for testing purposes, but a note
in the manual says to keep oil flowing to the pump to keep it from being
damaged. So where does one cap it off? I'd like to test it with a pre mix
before I go any further.<<<<<
you can cut a tee in the oil suction line and route the outlet from the oil pump
into the tee. that way the pump gets a fresh suply of oil and y ou can try the
pemix, remember to cap the oil opening at the carb so you dont create a air leak
and
run lien.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Bill:I'm still running up and down my field with fast taxi's. I run
into bad gas with water & dirt. Took out the tanks, gas line and
replaced everything. Have had other things to iron out, so haven't
gotten off the ground yet. I had bad grounds on the electrical, and was
going to see if I solved it today, but lots of company, christmas and so
on has slowed me down. Now I have to see where the bad gas is coming
from. Got my 2900 rpms static on the ground, but havn't gotten over
2400 on the taxi's as I'm off the ground and at the end of my short
field to quick and its not time to fly yet, but boy does that engine
prop combination push you fast. I never had to put in rudder for take
off before. The first taxi looked like bunch of Z's trying to keep it
straight going up the field. I'll keep checking it and not go until the
pucker factor has been reduced. So I have "P" factor two ways to work
out yet. I'll let you know, but I'm slow and not much of a mechanic.
Sure could use John H. here, but he's out of my price range.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Ar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/25/99 |
In a message dated 12/26/99 2:00:01 AM Central Standard Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> I have too much heart to
> get a warrant for Santa Claus!
> Howard
thanks Howard...enjoyed that
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com, tailwind-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Cool Fuel Cap Service... |
Hi Listers,
I wanted to pass on something I've found really handy and I'm sure
will be of use to many others. Steve Davis of The Panel Pilot offers
a exceptionally nice Fuel Cap Engraving service where he will engrave
the octane requirements into your aircraft fuel caps. I find this
particularly nice because I then don't have to put those cheesy
circular octane stickers around the fuel tank filling ports. I sent
my caps to Steve and received them back in a week or so as shown in
the Fuel Cap photos below. A very nice service that is quite
affordable and one that I would highly recommend. Steve will actually
engrave just about anything, and also offers a Instrument Panel
cutting service that is top notch. He is cutting the Panel for my
RV-4 and I am working on a web page that will detail the process.
Here are a couple of pictures of the fuel caps Steve did for my RV-4:
http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/NewPanel/FuelCap1.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/NewPanel/FuelCap2.jpg
Also have a look at Steve's Panel Pilot web page found at:
http://members.aol.com/panelcut
or you can email him directly at:
panelcut(at)aol.com
Best regards to all,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 Builder by night...
Email List Admin pretty much 24 & 7...
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Frank Beagle's Email |
ICOM 21 gave me a lot of problems flying yesterday. Need latest info on were
to get it repaired and returned in a reasonable amount of time.Following for
John H.
will be Flying S of you today-with S-6--Hawk down for leaky gaskets on
carbs--CPS sent wrong ones.HKS performing well in pusher config excellent
fuel consumption. Winds past 3 days 10-20 WNW.--Occasional Gusts.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Frank Beagle's Email |
frankbeagle(at)hotmail.com
J.D. Stewart
NCF Communications, Inc.
http://www.ncfcomm.com
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
Challenger Owners Website and e-mail list administrator
http://challenger.maverick.net
NE Nebraska Flying Club
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc
ICQ # 22494032
>
> Hey Gang:
>
> Anybody got an email address for Frank Beagle, "The Mouth"
> down on the farm at Oshkosh, hometown: Kankakee, Il??
>
> Thanks,
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Latest on engine failure. |
My friend (the one with the damaged Drifter) had me over to
his place when he pulled the crank out of his 447. Four of
the five main bearings were bad. The one center bearing is
locked. The only good bearing is the one towards the
starter pulley. There wasn't any signs of seizure on the
pistons or cylinder walls. He had been saying for some time
that he thought the engine sounded rattlely. I couldn't
tell, seeing how new I am at this sport. He had this engine
overhauled about 80 hr. ago. Also he found a small piece of
metal from one of the bearings shorted out the one plug.
This apparently is when the power failed and he had to make
a forced landing. So I guess it wasn't carb icing or
seizing that brought him down.
Now my big question is about what oil to use. I have been
using Kendall, but observed carbon building on the top of
the pistons. My friend was using Amsoil at 100 to 1 and had
convinced me to change. After seeing his main bearing I'm
not too sure I want to use it. I have asked around and get
different answers from everybody I talk to. Tried the
Rotax-owners page and still didn't find a solid
recommendation. What gives!! Why can't a new guy in this
sport get straight information on good mixing oil to
use?!!! The Amsoil dealer is big into snowmobiles and
claims to get superior results. At Oshkosh the big Rotax
dealer there said to use only Pennsoil which he said Rotax
recommended. Didn't say so in the manual I got with the
engine!
I started with Kendall because of my great experience with
their auto oils. Have consistently run up long mileage
without problems. Their 2 cycle oil meets the standards
that my Rotax manual stated.
Do I have to have problems before I learn by experience the
skinny on which is the best oil? Hopefully, with all of the
experience that is available on this list, someone can steer
me in the right direction.
Thanks for any advice.
Terry K. FF #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest on engine failure. |
Terry, you'll want to take a look at the archives. There's been a lot about
this in the past. Hope you're a little smarter than me when you "surf" the
archives. I can never seem to find what I want. Some of the guys seem to
find everything. Give it a go ! ! ! Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net>
Sent: Monday, December 27, 1999 10:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Latest on engine failure.
>
> My friend (the one with the damaged Drifter) had me over to
> his place when he pulled the crank out of his 447. Four of
> the five main bearings were bad. The one center bearing is
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
| Subject: | Latest on engine failure. |
HA!! Oil recommendations...
I gatta hear this thread. So, who's going to start?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest on engine failure. |
Terry, You got a straight answer you just didn't know it. Take the Rotax
dealers advice and use Pennzoil 2 cycle "air-cooled" oil. It has been tested
extensively on Rotaxs in blind test. It came out the winner.
When I pulled down my 582 after 450 hours using Pennzoil 2 cycle
"air-cooled" oil with oil injection I might add,(it now has 875 hours on it)
the rings were free, the pistons showed little sign of wear, there was very
little carbon on the piston skirts, and the crank did not show any sign of
wear at all. Is this straight enough? :-))
Now on the 447 demise. This sounds like a bad batch of crank bearings to me
being we know of others that have had the similar experience with the 447.
Do you know for sure that the rebuilt engine had a new factory crank
installed?
Firehawk
>Why can't a new guy in this
>sport get straight information on good mixing oil to
>use?!!! At Oshkosh the big Rotax
>dealer there said to use only Pennzoil which he said Rotax
>recommended.
>
>
>Thanks for any advice.
>
>Terry K. FF #95
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest on engine failure. |
ballenger wrote:
>
>
> Terry,
> I have been flying the 2 stroke rotax since 1988. I use pennzoil and highly
> recommend it. It leaves a lot less residue than the rest.
In our club, we have been using pennzoil semisyntetic(synt-o-mix)
exclusively for 8-9 years,except for one or two sticking with the rotax
factory oil obtained at snowmobile dealers.
we have amassed several thousand flight hours collectively on our
aircraft, and have experienced no lubrication related engine problems
except one bearing failure which happened because owner put in the wrong
type of bearing .
what pussles me is that this guy has deviated from the factory mixing
ratio of 50:1 and used 100:1 instead. i know that this is common
practice on rotax powered go-carts when using full syntetic oil, but
i've heard that these engines have a shorter lifespan(less hours than i
need to get my engines ready for decarbonizing) .
Not knowing much about us-oilbrands, it would be interesting to know if
this guys oil was fully synt.
ole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest on engine failure. |
> Now my big question is about what oil to use. I have been
> using Kendall, but observed carbon building on the top of
> the pistons. My friend was using Amsoil at 100 to 1 and had
> convinced me to change. After seeing his main bearing I'm
> not too sure I want to use it. I have asked around and get
> different answers from everybody I talk to. >
Terry,
I cast my vote for the Pennzoil for "air cooled 2 stroke engines". I haven't
got a lot of time in u/l's yet, but seems to me the majority of folks with
lots of time flying Rotax engines use this oil. South Mississippi Ultralight
is about 2 miles from me and they are one of the authorized service centers
for Rotax engines ( I believe there is six total authorized dealers) and
they use Pennzoil exclusively in the 2 stroke engines.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/25/99 |
N51SK(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 12/26/99 2:00:01 AM Central Standard Time,
> kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> > Who designed the engine? Why second guess the designer and manufacturer?
> > Mike Brown
> > Olympic Ultralights
> > Rotax Repair Center
> > 3000+ hours with 1 engine failure(not oil related)(also never seen an
> > oil pump failure), but what do I know?
> >
> I agree with you Mike...I've trusted Homer explicitly...didn't change a
> single rivit. I'm talking theory here about the oil injection. thanks for
> the input.<
Steve. You are right on target! Even tho I have designed my own
trainer(and flown it 500 hours), I didnt change a thing when I rebuilt
the FSII. Homer knew what he was doing, just like Rotax does. I dont
like two stroke engines for a number of reasons, but if one is stuck
with the fact that it is a two stroke or no fly-- then Rotax is the way
to go. Stock Rotax is hard to beat. I do NO mods to the engines on my
trainers. They are jetted as per the book, plugs are stock, and the
engines are tuned by the book. We do violate the book by not tearing the
engines down between the 300 hour tbo`s. Using Penz, we have found this
to be unnecessary. That is just us. I dont push anyone to do different,
and I dont ridicule anyone that does different(I might wonder about
their experience or sanity tho` :) and if 3000 hours with one engine
failure is just average, then so be it.
While we respect the fact that this is an experimental type sport, (or
business for some of us), we also can learn from those who have been
there and done it before, without feeling paranoid about weather someone
is being condescending, or worrying whether everyone else on the list is
feeling "rubbed the wrong way", so they can justify their insecurities.
So sad, Too bad.
I sure dont know it all. Never have claimed to know it all. I joined
this list a while back to see if I could find out why my FSII didnt fly
just right, and a lot of great people pitched in with good advice, which
I appreciated. If I was a condescending know it all, I doubt that I
would have felt compelled to join this list.
I got some good advice, and have found that with thousands of hours in
U/L`s, I can also give back some good info based on experience. I ask
nothing in return (except mutual respect that I try to show others) for
sharing my knowlege, and I am convinced that most of the people on the
list feel the same. The others dont count anyway. They have so little
respect for themselves that they have to "accidentally" post hateful
crap on the list to pump up their own fragile egos.
I will leave it at that.
Thanks, Steve.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest on engine failure. |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Terry, If I had to use a mineral oil it would be the Pennzoil 2-cycle for
air-cooled engines. I switched to all synthetic Klotz KL-216, 50:1 and
the plugs have never been cleaner. Flying over no-mans lands to Oshkosh
gave me confidence using the Klotz, but then the other trike pilots that
flew with me had no trouble using Pennzoil. Everyone has an opinion on
this and that is the straight answer. Good Luck.
Ralph
Original FS, 12 years flying
> Do I have to have problems before I learn by experience the
> skinny on which is the best oil? Hopefully, with all of the
> experience that is available on this list, someone can steer
> me in the right direction.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Terry K. FF #95
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest on engine failure. |
In a message dated 12/27/99 1:37:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tkrolfe(at)epix.net writes:
<< Why can't a new guy in this
sport get straight information on good mixing oil to
use?!!! >>
I'm sure there are lots of good oils but I have personal experience only with
Pennzoil
Air Cooled oil. Nearly 100 hours on my 503-no problem. Another 503 at our
field uses it and has over 200 hours and says very little carbon buildup.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
I bought the prop balancer from CPS, and balanced the prop tip to tip. The
next step they say is to balance the hub in the opposite direction to
achieve this I have to add a 3/8 by 1 7/8 long steel slug between two of the
mounting holes of the prop. Is this the proper way of doing this. thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/25/99 |
In a message dated 12/27/99 4:06:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
motavia(at)olypen.com writes:
<< While we respect the fact that this is an experimental type sport, (or
business for some of us), we also can learn from those who have been
there and done it before, without feeling paranoid about weather someone
is being condescending, or worrying whether everyone else on the list is
feeling "rubbed the wrong way", so they can justify their insecurities.
So sad, Too bad. >>
Mike...hang in there pal ....you make a lot of sense to
me!........................ GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest on engine failure. |
I have commented on this before, but suffer me to do it again. Back in 1984
I had a Hummer with a Rotax 277 on it, broke it in with Amsoil at 50:1, and
then, at the persuasion of a "knowledgeable" Amsoil dealer, began to lean
out the oil ratio. No problems through 75:1, but when I got to 100:1, I had
flown for about 35-45 minutes, and while climbing out from a touch and go,
I could hear a rattle from the engine. Throttled back as much as I could,
and got back and landed. The engine seemed to have a lot of slop and
looseness in it, (I used to make a living as a motorcycle mechanic) and I
assumed the bearings had gone bad, due to lack of lubrication. Just for the
heck of it, I drained the gas, and refilled it with a 50:1 mix. Started it
up and let it idle for several minutes, then wound it up. No rattle.
Changed to Phillips 66 two stroke oil.The engine had over 500 hours with no
trouble when I sold the airplane a couple years ago. The Amsoil might be
capable of lubricating the piston/cylinder successfully at 100:1, but the
Rotax needs a 50:1 mix to maintain the proper oil film thickness on the
bearings. Too little oil = excess bearing clearances.
I have used Phillips Injex (premixing it) for 16 years with no trouble,
used Pennzoil for 1 year, similar results, but it costs twice as much, and
leaves a sootier mess on the tail.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>My friend (the one with the damaged Drifter) had me over to
>his place when he pulled the crank out of his 447. Four of
>the five main bearings were bad. The one center bearing is
>locked. The only good bearing is the one towards the
>starter pulley. There wasn't any signs of seizure on the
>pistons or cylinder walls. He had been saying for some time
>that he thought the engine sounded rattlely.
My friend was using Amsoil at 100 to 1 and had
>convinced me to change. After seeing his main bearing I'm
>not too sure I want to use it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/25/99 |
>
> Mike...hang in there pal ....you make a lot of sense to
> me!........................ GeoR38<
Thanks! The feeling is mutual.
Mike
Olympic Ultralights
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb fuel tank repair? |
I've got practically everything a Kolber could ask for. I've got as 5
hp air compressor, lathe, drill press, welding equipment and a garage
full of tools. It seems that what I lack is manual dexterity and
brains. So what does a brainless klutz do? Goes to the Kolb list and
asks for help.
I was soldering connector pins on the fuel transmitter wires from one
of the Kolb plastic fuel tanks. I accidentally touched the tank with
the hot soldering iron. Actually I laid the iron on the work table and
it rotated underneath the tank while I was fussing with the wiring.
Melted a hole in the darn fool tank. Actually it melted it so that it
looks really thin. I don't know if it will leak or not but don't want
to risk it. It smelled like hot wax. Now I know they don't make those
tanks out of wax but when they melt they sure smell like it.
Is the darn fool tank repairable or do I have to buy a new darn fool
tank? What are those darn fool tanks made of anyway? I have some of
the repair goo that is used to repair the plastic on the vacuum formed
parts of Cessna's like the instrument panel cover and stabilizer tips.
Is the darn fool tank made out of the same stuff as the Cessna parts?
Will that work to repair the darn fool tank? Is there something you all
would recommend to fix this darn fool tank?
Thanks in advance for any help, Bil Mk III sn 213 The
"Millennium Bug"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | monte84(at)mindspring.com |
Hello list,
Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas. Got a question about covering. I'm
just ready to start covering the elevators and notice that the Kolb manual says
nothing about finishing tapes on them. The Poly Fiber manual says all cemented
seams must be covered with a finishing tape at least 2" wide. Did y-all put
tape on every edge?
Thanks for the help. P.S. Ordered the 912 package from Kolb the other day so
be prepaired for questions concerning installing that in the near future. Monte
Mark III
________________________________________________________________________________
Happy new year, Century and Millennium to all,
To Monte:
I taped all cemented seams. It is a real chore to get the tape to lay down on
the elevators, ailerons and flaps because of the way the ribs stick up. I finally
wound up cutting a small V out of the tape at each rib so I could get the
tape to lay down flat. I don't recommend it, just my solution to the problem.
Ready for the Millennium, Bil Mk III sn 213
monte84(at)mindspring.com wrote:
>
> Hello list,
>
> Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas. Got a question about covering. I'm
just ready to start covering the elevators and notice that the Kolb manual says
nothing about finishing tapes on them. The Poly Fiber manual says all cemented
seams must be covered with a finishing tape at least 2" wide. Did y-all
put tape on every edge?
> Thanks for the help. P.S. Ordered the 912 package from Kolb the other day so
be prepaired for questions concerning installing that in the near future. Monte
> Mark III
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
monte84(at)mindspring.com wrote:
>
>
> Hello list,
>
> Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas. Got a question about covering. I'm
just ready to start covering the elevators and notice that the Kolb manual says
nothing about finishing tapes on them. The Poly Fiber manual says all cemented
seams must be covered with a finishing tape at least 2" wide. Did y-all
put tape on every edge?
> Thanks for the help. P.S. Ordered the 912 package from Kolb the other day so
be prepaired for questions concerning installing that in the near future. Monte
> Mark III
Finishing tapes should be put over all cemented edges, both for
additional structural strength and appearance. One point, you use the
word "cemented" in refering to application of tapes. In PolyFiber
process tapes are applied using PolyBrush and NOT PolyTak.
If you use the PolyFiber process (wise choice) follow the PolyFiber
manual explicitedly. Otherwise, use some other system and use THEIR
manual explicitedly. There are fundamental differences in the covering
systems and mixing procedures can only lead to problems.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
Does anyone have the URL to the site that had the pictures of a Kolb
Ultrastar doing loops. I had it on my computer but lost it and would
like to recover it.
Eugene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb fuel tank repair? |
Hey Bil and Kolbers,
If the tank is made of polypropylene, you can repair it with a tank repair
kit from any place that sells RVs. It is for the water tank in the RVs but
it works on any poly tank. Make sure you clean all if any oil or gas off it
with MEK or like solvent. I have used this kit and found it to be the only
thing that works. It usually comes in black.
Firehawk
Is there something you all
>would recommend to fix this darn fool tank?
>
>Thanks in advance for any help, Bil Mk III sn 213 The
>"Millennium Bug"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
The trick is to use 2" wide bias tape, and pre crease it by folding it in
half length wise first, and then running it back and forth across the edge
of the workbench or something to crease it and make it want to stay folded
over. When you go around a corner, use the iron to shrink the fabric into a
compound curve as you go.
It is true that the small trailing edges probably do not need the covering
tape for glue integrity, but that extra layer of cloth helps abrasion
resistance and helps keep hangar rash from cutting through an edge, and
then needing a patch. But it is tedious to apply.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Monte:
>I did not cover the glued edge seams on the elevator, ailerons or rudder.
>The trailing edge tubing is just to small to accomodate the covering tapes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Latest on engine failure. |
TK wrote:
>
> snip
he pulled the crank out of his 447. Four of
> the five main bearings were bad. The one center bearing is
> locked. The only good bearing is the one towards the
> starter pulley. There wasn't any signs of seizure on the
> pistons or cylinder walls.
snip
He had this engine
> overhauled about 80 hr. ago.
snip
> Now my big question is about what oil to use.
Cause of problem??
Bad batch of bearings is not impossible but highly unlikely. Inferior
lubrication not likely, as the engine can run without any oil until the
engine virtually self-destructs and the main ball bearings will be the
only internal parts left OK.
IMHO the more likely cause would be material contamination, or a
mis-alignment of the crank ,at the time of engine overhaul, or if belt
reduction excessive belt tension.
We humans are often our own worst enemies but we sure do love to place
the responsibility some where else.
Eugene (it was the oil )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
Thompson, Todd wrote:
>
>
> Monte:
> I did not cover the glued edge seams on the elevator, ailerons or rudder.
> The trailing edge tubing is just to small to accomodate the covering tapes.
> Bob Barry - Kolb lister - however, did using covering tapes down each rib
> on the ailerons and rudder and it looks great. I don't think it's
> absolutely needed but it looks good. It might add some more weight and if
> wieght is a concern of yours then think twice.
The primary reason for tapes over ribs is anti-chafe. The reason for
tape over glued tape overlap areas is to prevent failure of the adhesive
bond. Try getting away with leaving this off on an aircraft you are
going to register experimental. I am well aware that as ULs we do not
have to conform to standard practices, but some (many?) "standard
practices" are there for good reasons. Maybe at the Reynolds numbers
our surfces see you can get away with it, but frankly it also makes
things look better. Ever calculate (estimate) the impact on total
weight? As for the tube being too small to tape, many aircraft having
1/4" tubing in this area are taped with no problems at all.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> The trick is to use 2" wide bias tape, and pre crease it by folding it in
> half length wise first, and then running it back and forth across the edge
> of the workbench or something to crease it and make it want to stay folded
> over. When you go around a corner, use the iron to shrink the fabric into a
> compound curve as you go.
> It is true that the small trailing edges probably do not need the covering
> tape for glue integrity, but that extra layer of cloth helps abrasion
> resistance and helps keep hangar rash from cutting through an edge, and
> then needing a patch. But it is tedious to apply.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
> >
> >Monte:
> >I did not cover the glued edge seams on the elevator, ailerons or rudder.
> >The trailing edge tubing is just to small to accomodate the covering tapes.
Bias tapes need no special treatment to conform to curves - just tac one
end (very short section 1" max), let dry, apply PolyBrush and lay the
tape down while pulling. Keep in mind that the tape will shrink in
width about 1/3 as a result of the pulling.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Rotax 912 and piston kits |
Hey gang, this was sent to me by an interested friend, and I kinda thought
it would be of interest to some. See whatcha think.
Interested Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 1999 2:35 PM
Subject: Rotax 912 and piston kits
> News Release
>
> For Immediate Release
>
> Kodiak Research Ltd. Releases Service Letter SL-1-KUL-1999 Covering The
Use Of
> After-market 'High Performance' Piston Kits.
>
> Sept. 9, 1999
>
> Kodiak Research Ltd. - Nassau, Bahamas, the American distributor of Rotax
> aircraft engines, released an important Service Letter covering the use of
> third party 'high performance' piston kits to improve the performance of
912
> / 914 series engines.
>
> Service Letter SL-1-KUL-1999 can be downloaded free of charge via the
> Internet from:
>
> http://www.rotax-owner.com
>
> The release of this service letter was prompted by both the recent
> availability of at least one after-market 'high compression' piston kit
for
> the 81 HP 912 UL engine, and the apparent confusion on the part of some
> engine owners that these kits are in some way approved by Rotax.
>
> The Service Letter SL-1-KUL-1999 clearly states that use of any third
party
> piston in any Rotax 912 / 914 series engine is not approved by Rotax, is
> dangerous, and will void the engine warranty.
>
> In developing the 100 HP 912 ULS (non-certified) and the 100 HP 912 S
> (certified) engines, Rotax carefully investigated ways to increase the
> performance of the proven 912 UL engine without substantial increases in
> weight or changes to external dimensions. While the 912 ULS/S series
engines
> do have a higher compression ratio compared to the 81 HP 912 UL, Rotax
> realized that simply boosting the compression ration was not the complete
> answer. Rotax has carefully engineered in many changes to create an
engine
> that does not sacrifice reliability or serviceability for increased
> performance. The following is a list of just a few of the differences
> between the 912ULS/S series engines and the standard 81 HP 912:
>
> engine displacement increased from 1211 cc to 1352 cc
>
> new engine camshaft
>
> reinforced crankcase design with steel inserts instead of
heli-coils
>
> reinforced crankcase gear reduction drive
>
> use of 2.43 to 1 gear reduction ratio and wider reduction gears
>
> carburetors calibrated for increased performance
>
> crankshaft redesigned for increased engine displacement
>
> redesigned cylinder heads
>
> new optimized exhaust system design
>
> new flow optimized air intake system
>
> It is the total sum of these changes that makes the 912 ULS/S special.
>
> In internal combustion engines, there is always a compromise between
> performance and reliability. Engines designed or modified for racing
often
> sacrifice reliability or life for the sake of performance. A stock car
> engine may only run a few hundred miles between overhauls. The engine in
a
> top fuel dragster may only run a few seconds before failing. Given the
> nature of the application, aircraft engines are designed to be at the
other
> end of this spectrum. A premium is placed on reliability and long engine
> life. Very often some performance must be sacrificed to achieve the
desired
> engine life and reliability. An aircraft engine that would only run a few
> seconds before failing would not be considered acceptable no matter how
much
> power it produced.
>
> It takes many man hours of careful engineering and many more hours of
> exhaustive, well documented testing to modify the performance of a
aircraft
> engine. This is the type of investment that Rotax has made in the
> development of the 912 ULS/S series.
>
> The research, development and testing invested by the manufacturers of
third
> party replacement piston kits is not known. What is apparent is that
> manufacturers of these 'high performance' piston kits do not appear to be
> taking all of the relevant factors into consideration when they propose to
> increase engine performance by simply increasing the compression ratio.
The
> question must be raised, are they simply increasing performance at the
> expense of engine reliability or engine life?
>
> Increasing compression ratios creates additional loading on the crankshaft
> and the crankcase. In the case of a 912 UL engine with non - approved
high
> compression piston installed, crankshaft failure or damage to the
crankcase
> can be the result of these increased loads.
>
> Increasing the performance of a engine through increases in compression
ratio
> requires adjustments to the engine induction system. The manufacturers of
the
> available 'high compression' piston kits do not make mention of this in
their
> literature or instructions. Failure to modify the 912 UL carburetors in
> light of the additional fuel demands created by the use of a higher
> compression piston can lead to lean running conditions resulting in valve
> burning and rough running.
>
> Pre - ignition and detonation are also serious concerns when these kits
are
> installed. Detonation can cause severe engine damage in a very short
period
> of time. In aircraft applications, noise from propellers and airflow
coupled
> with the use of noise blocking headsets can make detonation more difficult
to
> detect.
>
> The installation of this type of after market 'high performance' pistons
can
> also reduce the piston to valve clearance. Reducing this clearance can
make
> the engine more susceptible to a valve strike in cases of engine over
speed.
> The 912 UL and the 912 S series engines have been design to handle
moderate
> over speed conditions with minimal risk of engine damage. With the
reduced
> piston to valve clearance introduced by the installation of 'high
> performance' pistons, the possibility of a valve strike may increase even
> during minor over speed incidents.
>
> Ease of operation and engine serviceability can also be adversely effected
by
> the installation of third party 'high performance' pistons. Higher
> compression engines can be more difficult to start creating extra demands
on
> starter components. The 912 UL must have a minimum starting crank speed
of
> 250 RPM for the electronic ignition modules to fire. Below 250 RPM, the
> ignition system will not fire the spark plugs and the engine will not
start.
> Installing after market 'high performance' pistons may increase the load
on
> the starting system reducing starting crank speeds. This could result in
> engine starting difficulties particularly in cold weather conditions.
>
> In addition to concerns of possible engine damaged caused by the use of
these
> piston, there are also issues regarding the possibility of engine damage
> during the installation of these kits by owners / operators.
>
> The removal and replacement of pistons in the 912 UL engine is not a task
the
> should be taken lightly, nor is it an operation that should be attempted
by
> the inexperienced. Kodiak Research Ltd. and Rotax strongly advise that
> procedures as complex as the replacement of 912 UL pistons should only be
> performed by an authorized Service Center or Repair Station. Only
authorized
> Service Centers and Repair Stations have the tools and training to insure
the
> proper completion of advanced engine repair.
>
> In an effort to help sell their product, the manufacturers of these after
> market piston kits are implying that any 912 UL owner can successfully
> replace the pistons in his or her engine. These piston manufacturers do
this
> by providing incomplete, over simplified and misleading instructions with
> their product.
>
> The installation instructions provide by one of the 'high compression'
piston
> suppliers were downloaded from the manufacturer's web site and reviewed by
> factory trained, highly experienced aircraft mechanics thoroughly familiar
> with the 912 UL engine. The following are just a few of their comments:
>
>
> Reuse of O-rings - This is not recommended as the reuse of the
> O-rings on the intake manifolds may result in vacuum leaks and rough
running.
> Reuse of O-rings on the push rod tubes and cylinder barrels can result in
> oil leaks.
>
> Use of rags to pack off crankcase opening while cylinder is
> removed. - This practice has been abandoned in the aviation engine repair
> industry for many years. The use of rags to block off crankcase openings
has
> caused severe engine damage and failure when a part of a rag is
accidentally
> left in the crankcase.
>
> Reuse of piston rings - One of the reviewing mechanics described
> this practice as "absolutely ridiculous". When reusing old piston rings,
> there is a very good chance that the old rings will not properly seal on
the
> cylinder wall. This will lead to poor compression, high oil consumption
and
> reduced performance.
>
> Required tools - The instructions reviewed state that a wrist
pin
> puller, circlip installer and split type ring compressor are tools that
will
> help with the installation, but are not necessary. Suggesting that this
type
> of engine work can be successfully completed without the proper tools is
> ludicrous and dangerous.
>
> Attempting to install third party replacement pistons relying on these
> incorrect, incomplete and misleading instructions can lead to very serious
> and very expensive engine damage.
>
> Most owners of Rotax 912 UL engines have many hours of work and tens of
> thousands of dollars invested in their aircraft. Any 912 UL owner or
> operator using or considering the use of any unproven, unapproved after
> market piston kits should carefully assess the risk to this investment and
> possibly their lives.
>
> For more information on Service Letter SL-1-KUL-1999 and the risks created
by
> the installation and use of third party 'high performance' piston kits,
> please contact your nearest Kodiak Research Ltd. authorized Service Center
> for Rotax aircraft Engines.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim T99" <townsend(at)webound.com> |
Just passing this on
Tim T.
> >> Local Kolb flyer Danny Byrd had his new Powerfin fail after a
> >>short time in the air.
> >>This was discussed on the Fly-UL list last week but I didn't
> >>notice the posting. The prop slung an internal weight but the
> >>actual blade stayed intact. Severe vibration set in and Danny
> >>had to hit the kill switch. He set it down in a muddy wheat
> >>field. The thrown weight put a dent in the boom tube.
> >>The mnfg. at first denied there was a problem (sounds familiar :)
> >>but has realized it was a quality control problem. See response
> >>on fly ul archives.
> >
> >The factories reply was quite interesting, and I happen to have
> >it readily available for anyone who'd like to read it! (below)
> >Others (not interested) are invited to delete now, thanks! ;-)
> >
> >Powerfin Reply:
> >*********************************************************************
> >Hi Andy,
> >I had an issue with the Kolb recently. The fellow who owned it was named
> >Danny Byrd. Make sure you get first hand names before you buy into any
> >stories about my products because I'll discuss every example that I have
of
> >my propeller problems with you or anyone else who asks. The more open I
am
> >on the subject, the more motivated I'll be to fix them quickly and
> >thoroughly. This is a self imposed discpline that I require to battle
> >complacency. Bear in mind that every single manufacturer out there has
had
> >failures. The honest ones will tell you about them.
> >
> >Mr. Byrd has yet to return his propeller to me but I attribute the
failure
> >he had to a craftsmanship error which caused the balance weight to become
> >dislodged and get slung out of the blade through the trailing edge near
the
> >end. The blade remained entirely structurally intact according to Mr.
Byrd.
> >He experienced the instant loss of balance in his prop. I've never had a
> >full blade failure where the blade departed the airplane entirely. At
least
> >I've never had one where the pilot didn't admit what he had done to cause
> >it. On the new style blade, the design precludes the possibility of full
> >abject failure (slinging a blade). I've not had any example of abject or
> >pilot induced failure of this nature on the new design.
> >
> >I understand, through the testing process that those weights will
traverse
> >the length of the blade through the foam core and depart out the end if
> >they become dislodged. They cannot become dislodged, however, without an
> >error occurring in the manufacturing process. I won't know if that error
> >was committed until I receive the propeller back and dissect the blade
but
> >I'm pretty certain I will see one. The other two blades are flawless
> >according to Mr. Byrd.
> >
> >Right now, assuming I understand what happened, I've taken steps in our
> >process to assure that error, if committed, will be manifest during the
> >process and the craftsmen cannot continue fabricating that blade until
the
> >error is corrected. We had a meeting which included every employee in our
> >company (10 people) in which I discussed the issue and the changes I made
> >to the process. Without belaboring the details, the process now controls
> >this factor and the craftsman is relieved of a small burden of decision
> >making that, if poorly made, will result in the possibility of those
> >weights becoming dislodged.
> >
> >The issue of the S-12 I am not certain of. I did have a similar issue
with
> >a slight delamination of a prop which I sold to Wild Air down in Oregon.
On
> >that one there was a minor delamination of the trailing edge of the blade
> >which wasn't reported to have caused any vibration at all. I assume if
that
> >was the another example of balance weight ejection I would have been told
> >of a serious vibration. At any rate, I don't recall if the plane was an
> >S-12 though it might have been. If you get this fellow's name I'll
discuss
> >it more with you.
> >
> >Andy, bear in mind that I have over 2500 propellers out there flying
right
> >now. I have nearly 1000 of the new style propellers (about 2500 blades)
> >flying. Most of those sales have gone to O.E.M. manufacturers who won't
> >think twice about dropping a company that issues defective products in a
> >haphazard manner. Also bear in mind that I have made a few enemies in the
> >prop business through determined competition. Make sure the source of
your
> >info isn't biased toward one of them or even worse - is one of them.
> >
> >I'd guess around 30 people have wanted their money back since I've
started
> >in business. Most of them are due to me not picking the best diameter or
> >blade type. I count 9 incidences of failure on over 2500 units sold with
> >none resulting in injury and only Mr. Byrd's resulting in any damage
> >whatsoever. Out of those 9, I ascribe 3 of them to mishandling the
> >propeller as they remain unexplained by any other means. Our methods of
> >analysis can include X-ray, die penatrant, magnaflux, micro inspection,
and
> >chemical analysis. All these methods have been used in the past to
> >determine the cause of failures and I assure you that if there is an
abject
> >blade failure, one of those methods will be certain to find the reason
for
> >it. The 6 incidents of abject blade failure generate a failure rate of
0.2%
> >(two tenths of one percent) which rivals any manufacturer in the general
> >aviation industry.
> >
> >We have refunded money to Mr. Byrd for his prop, the original shipping,
his
> >damaged boom tube, and the cost of returning his prop to me. You can see
I
> >take full responsibility for my errors and that is the best that can be
> >expected of me. I react immediately to correct any known problem that
> >comes to my attention. I test our products thoroughly before sales to the
> >public. I document that testing.
> >
> >You will see my company grow in this business because of my commitment to
> >improving process and quality. I am currently researching and traveling
to
> >see a new process that I can apply to blade making to improve delivery
> >times, quality, and consistency. This is a fully computer controlled
> >process that removes craftsmen entirely and replaces handwork with
process
> >management. It's fast! It is a system widely used by aerospace companies
to
> >produce such things as tail rotors, stator vanes (for use in jet
engines),
> >and other critical airplane parts. We could certify our propellers if we
> >aquire this equipment. I'm not sure I'm that ambitious but I certainly
want
> >to make props that can run on large, direct drive engines for the
> >experimental market.
> >
> >I deeply regret and I'm greatly embarrassed by Mr. Byrd's and the few
> >negative experiences of other's with Powerfin propellers. I have great
> >empathy for anyone who has had such an experience in an airplane with any
> >manufacter's propeller. I have over 2500 hours of flight time in
everything
> >from a B1-RD to a twin engine Cessna 310 which I owned. I am a Multi
Engine
> >Instrument Flight Instructor (CFI - CFII - MEI) as well with many hours
> >instruction given at a professional 141 flight school . I say all this to
> >let you and anyone else that may read this know that I have spent enough
> >hours aloft to generate a healthy respect for the art of flight and a
keen
> >empathy for those in trouble. I am not without my own terrorizing
> >experiences nor am I free of the memory of friends lost to this sport. I
> >will never casually dismiss a report of failure or fail to react quickly
to
> >it. I simply can't sleep at night if I've left something undone that
> >exposes someone to undue risk. I'll always be thinking of the next best
way
> >to do things and every one of them will improve quality for you guys.
> >
> >I am a bit long winded here but only because I take this seriously and I
> >assume you would want to republish this wherever you got the orginal
> >accounts of the failures. I encourage you to publish this response and I
am
> >eager to have this matter out in the light of day. Try to get as much
from
> >my competitors. I'll seem honest in hindsight of that endeavour.
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >
> >Stuart Gort - Powerfin Inc.
>
>***************************************************************************
*
> >
> >For those who've read this far, you may also be interested in this site,
> >which reports on the incident about 2 weeks back when 2 light aircraft
> >attached themselves to each other while on final approach, and landed
safely:
> >
> >http://www.avweb.com/newswire/news9950b.html
> >
> >Cheers!
> >Mike H.
> >
> >
> Subscribe: powerchutes-subscribe(at)onelist.com
> Unsubscribe: powerchutes-unsubscribe(at)onelist.com
> Web Page: http://www.powerchutes.com
> Hearme Chat: http://www.powerchutes.com/popup_simple.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Latest on engine failure--not oil related |
I knew this was not an icing problem but I was wrong also as it was probably
not a seizure either and I can tell you also that it is not an oil problem.
Kendell?? what's that? Anyway your friend needs to find a better engine
rebuilder--like one that might know what he is doing! Your friends selection
of Amsoil is a good choice as are several other types including the Pennzoil.
Pennzoil has actually run a test bed engines with their oils to accumulate
data--our kinda engines being operated to simulate flying conditions. Good
enough reason after seeing actual published, scientifically gathered data
which is a rarity in this sport/activity. Of course in my automobiles I use
Mobil 1 and also never wear an engine out but what does that have to do with
a two-stroke aircraft engine--very little I fear. My bet--Pennzoil because
it is cheap, available from local supply houses by the case and has a decent
track record and is actually recommended by Pennzoil for two-stroke aircraft
engines and major Rotax shops, oh, and do not let the local lawn mower repair
yard do your overhaul. The rattling sound was probably piston slap which will
become increasingly loud as piston/wall clearances increase. Some slap is
normal because our aero engines are set up fairly loose to begin with to help
prevent seizure but excessive slap indicates a worn engine or one that is at
least trying to tell some one that inspection is in order. The bearings most
likely were not replaced at the so called overhaul or were improperly set and
aligned or other damage such as corrosion or foreign material caused their
failure. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb fuel tank repair? |
In a message dated 12/28/99 12:10:31 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bilrags@world-net.net writes:
<< Is the darn fool tank repairable or do I have to buy a new darn fool
tank? What are those darn fool tanks made of anyway? I have some of
the repair goo that is used to repair the plastic on the vacuum formed
parts of Cessna's like the instrument panel cover and stabilizer tips.
Is the darn fool tank made out of the same stuff as the Cessna parts?
Will that work to repair the darn fool tank? Is there something you all
would recommend to fix this darn fool tank?
Thanks in advance for any help, Bil Mk III sn 213 The
"Millennium Bug" >>
Your frustration is so evident Bil that I only wish to God that I could
help.....but you see, I am a brainless Klutz too!!............. some of the
time.......only when it counts.....I think
GeoR38
driver of by George! the Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
>>>>>Hello list,
Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas. Got a question about covering. I'm
just ready to start covering the elevators and notice that the Kolb manual says
nothing about finishing tapes on them. The Poly Fiber manual says all cemented
seams must be covered with a finishing tape at least 2" wide. Did y-all put
tape on every edge?
Thanks for the help. P.S. Ordered the 912 package from Kolb the other day so
be prepaired for questions concerning installing that in the near future. Monte
Mark III<<<<<<
if you figur it out let me know,, i havent found a support group so figuring it
is slow.
boyd
ps tonight i have been treated with 2 cycle oil recomendations...... help with
oil recomendations for the 912
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb fuel tank repair? |
A few years ago, being real bright and intelligent, I drilled a hole in the
poly side tank in a '72 Bronco. The kit I used was suited for that type of
repair; punctures etc. and did a great job. I don't think it would've done
the job on a larger hole, which is what it sounds like you have, 'cause it
just melted the edges together. I'd check it out very carefully.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 1999 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb fuel tank repair?
>
> In a message dated 12/28/99 12:10:31 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> bilrags@world-net.net writes:
>
> << Is the darn fool tank repairable or do I have to buy a new darn fool
> tank? What are those darn fool tanks made of anyway? I have some of
> the repair goo that is used to repair the plastic on the vacuum formed
> parts of Cessna's like the instrument panel cover and stabilizer tips.
> Is the darn fool tank made out of the same stuff as the Cessna parts?
> Will that work to repair the darn fool tank? Is there something you all
> would recommend to fix this darn fool tank?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help, Bil Mk III sn 213 The
> "Millennium Bug" >>
>
> Your frustration is so evident Bil that I only wish to God that I could
> help.....but you see, I am a brainless Klutz too!!............. some of
the
> time.......only when it counts.....I think
> GeoR38
> driver of by George! the Firestar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
In a message dated 12/28/99 1:59:41 AM Central Standard Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Do I have to have problems before I learn by experience the
> > skinny on which is the best oil? Hopefully, with all of the
> > experience that is available on this list, someone can steer
> > me in the right direction.
Terry
I'm running Pennzoil for air cooled 2 cycle engines in my 503 and pushing
100 hours without a hitch. I'll be checking for carbon soon though so maybe
I'll have more input at that time.
Steve Kroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb fuel tank repair? |
I think for about 10 bucks I would order another tank.
I had to after my holes drilles in the tank for the outlet would not seal
properly. I remember them being real cheap from the Old Kolb.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
Can anyone tell me the way to balance the prop hub. I bought a balancer and
balanced tip to tip and then checked balance the opposite direction for the
prop hub and I need to add a 3/8 by 1 7/8 steel bolt to the one side of hub
to balance it, do I drill a hole in the hub and place the steel stud.
Thanks for your help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
| Subject: | Finishing tapes........ |
Hi to the list, and HAPPY HOLIDAYS to all of you!!
About those finishing tapes..... the main reason for taping all fabric
edges is to give a "plywood" or "sandwich" effect. This helps to insure
strenth and integrity to the fabric edges.
I have some techniques for applying the tapes, that almost eliminate the
need for cutting "darts" or wedges in the fabric or tapes when you're
attempting to make them lay down over such protrusions as "Holmer's bumps",
as well as ideas for taping the edges of the control surfaces.
Here's an open invitation to all of you to call me anytime toll free to talk
these techniques over!!
We do this stuff everyday here at Millertime airport, if any of you are in
the area, give us a call & come on over!!
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
your answer was well written and logical but you forgot one important thing
about the 582. Let me explain. I do not want to get into a pissing contest
with all the Rotax experts on this list but the 582 has a few major
problems. Let me explain.I just found water in the oil-my new 582-total time
30 hours.
Water getting into the oil--It is not the boiling point of the water that is
the question-it is how much pressure the rotary valve seals can hold in the
water side. They are rated to hold approximately 9 lbs. of water pressure.
Most caps are = to 15 psi in metric conversion.
Example on my 582--has just 30 hours-fuel injection disconnected-the cap on
the split radiator-after the 2 sets of tighten-remove the following 0.9.
stamped on cap-analysis of cap will indicate it has a brass pressure relief
system--to open cap. Many make the false assumption that the purpose of the
cap is to raise the boiling point of the water like on a car --it is--but
they forget what Rotax designed into the system rotary valve seals rated at
approx. 9 PSI.
Years ago we had the same problem on water pumps that go on cars--a system
exists on these water pumps to get rid of the water-a simple drain
hole.German Engineers are noted for their knowledge and educational
backgrounds-don't you think they know about centrifugal type water pumps?
They use them on all their high performance engines--BMW-Mercedes-etc.Who
are they kidding?
What is needed on the 582 is a 7 PSI cap--try to find one--my flying buddy
on this list also has a 582 and has modified his tank--I have not been able
to find a 7 PSI cap in any parts stores or foreign car places,in 4 states to
date. Been looking for one since I installed the 582.Installing an extra
radiator also a good idea---remember all the problems with 582's on Kit Fox
when they first came out. Engine after engine failed!
With the current 15 PSI caps in use you need to use a puke bottle-as the 15
PSI cap will push water into the rotary valve oil side and destroy the brass
gear.
Note: The new 582's and 618 have a ceramic seal and they also will leak if
pushed to high temp.
Water will screw up the brass gears. I know of 50 sets of gears that were
destroyed from water in the rotary valve oil side.I will not comment on what
happens when the brass gears fail-I will leave that to the experts! I have
experience a 582 stopping in flight--reason -no oil! I anxiously await the
technical response-and copy of repair bill!
If your water reaches 15PSI and your water temp above 80 deg C=176 deg F.
You will push water into the oil. This is well known --and that includes
ROTAX--did they announce to the world-why they decided to change the type
seal? Hell no- I have flow Rotax from the beginning -all makes and
models-Their bottom line is the American Buck-they are selling engines-and
remember we are not suppose to use them for flying if my memory serves me
correctly-sold through Canada for liability reasons.If a snowmobile stops
along the trail-whats the problem-in flight a different set of rapid events!
I stated I was not interested in getting into a big technical argument-I
have over 50 years experience in the jet/missile engine field and have sent
stuff on many one way flights.
The important thing or bottom line is this--How do we protect our
investment and our lives.? American ingenuity.Utilize our
experience,talent,common sense and maintenance experiences. When a problem
exists a solution or alternate solution can be found. What I have stated
here is what I consider a reasonable course of action to take. Take this
information for what it is worth. Like reading a book-agree-disagree-with
author-follow your own course of action.
I have started the following quick fix today--drained oil out of small tank
on top.
Easier said than done-you may have to raise one wing -etc-- check on bottom
of engine case (bottom part) you will find a 10mm little bolt with a copper
gasket. You can use this hole to flush out the milky or contaminated
oil.Bolt it located on water pump side.Slow but will do the job! Lines must
be drained
The idea is to thicken the oil--I am mixing starting today 50-50--- Danny
Day's UL oil-and 85-140 Gear oil. Thats what I am going to do. Will it
work.? The chemical composition leads me to believe by changing to a thicker
viscosity it will definitely help . Remember the engineering fix from Rotax
does not correct the problem.They definitely are aware of but keeping it to
themselves.If I missed their Maintenance bulletin-please forward a copy!
Again I have seen plenty of messed up on one end 582 cranks--again I made
the personal decision to disconnect the oil injection system.My decision was
based on facts! Not opinions!
I have read much on this net and will close with one piece of advice--do not
confuse time with proficiency. I do not doubt someone got 3000 hours on a
582 but I would have to see the internal parts,bearings, crank etc.
Hopefully you do not have this problem on the 582--but you will if you are
not extremely careful.
If anyone knows were I can buy a 7 PSI cap-or has a field fix for the split
582 Rotax radiators I would appreciate hearing from you.
Lindy
Mark 3 # 043
LA-- Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Rotax 912 and piston kits |
Hi Lar,
Why are you interested in this mod? Are you changing your mind on the VW engine
you currently building up for your MKIII.
Personally I would not touch this mod for the same reasons Rotax states since it
"may" degrade the excellent endurance record of the 912 and this is precisely
the reason why I choose it over other cheaper 4-strokers for my MKIII .
Frank Reynen MKIII@565hrs
Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: Rotax 912 and piston kits
Hey gang, this was sent to me by an interested friend, and I kinda thought
it would be of interest to some. See whatcha think.
Interested Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 1999 2:35 PM
Subject: Rotax 912 and piston kits
> News Release
>
> For Immediate Release
>
> Kodiak Research Ltd. Releases Service Letter SL-1-KUL-1999 Covering The
Use Of
> After-market 'High Performance' Piston Kits.
>
> Sept. 9, 1999
>
> Kodiak Research Ltd. - Nassau, Bahamas, the American distributor of Rotax
> aircraft engines, released an important Service Letter covering the use of
> third party 'high performance' piston kits to improve the performance of
912
> / 914 series engines.
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GEORGE ALEXANDER <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: loop pictures |
Eugene H Zimmerman wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone have the URL to the site that had the pictures of a Kolb
> Ultrastar doing loops. I had it on my computer but lost it and would
> like to recover it.
>
> Eugene
>
<<>>
There is one at:
http://www.rewindplay.com/mxjournal/hangar.htm
George Alexander
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
Please respond to kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99
Steve, the oil pump on the 582 as far as I know is mechanically driven. Onlt
the fuek pump is pulse diaphram driven. I've not actaully studied the
schematics.
Oil pump related failures are so few that I don't think removing this
"failure point" is a good thing. Mixing oil only serves to improve carbon
deposits and run the risk of plug fowling in my humble and limited opinion.
If Rotax didn't think that the reliabliltiy and performance would be
improved they wouldn't have put it on the engine. Remember, Rotax has a
vested interest in lessening their libilities. Think about it.
Todd is correct in my opinion.I used it for eight years and 481 hrs without fail
with a see-thru tank.
Since I have not seen anybody describe the internal design of the oil injector
pump on this list, I will explain it as I took mine apart and studied its design
several years ago during an engine rebuild.
The pump is driven from the 582 cross shaft by a plastic gear which drives a
wormgear inside the bottom of the pump. The worm gear rotates a sleeve type
valve inside the pump body providing for the oilinlet and outletfunctions. The
total reduction of the plastic gear and the wormgear combined is 57:1 which
means that an engine running at 5700 RPM will drive this pump at 100 RPM.
Inside the sleeve and rotating with it is the springloaded piston which has a
double cam designed on its underside. The double cam rotates over a pin which
height is varied by the lever position connected to the oilpump cable and causes
two up and down piston strokes for every rotation of the sleeve.
The sleeve has two inlet ports and a single outletport.
The outletport of the sleeve is lined up alternately with the Mag cylinder port
and the PTO port everytime the piston hits TDC and pushes a small volume of oil
through the checkvalve and oil supply line to the air intake.
This means that each cylinder gets oil independently from this pump on and
alternate basis about 100 times per minute at 5700 RPM.
The inlet connection is shared but the outlets are seperated for even oil
distribution between the two cylinders.
The pump stroke is infinitely variable between 70-100 % of its stroke and
controlled by adjusting the height of the pin, not letting the piston go down
the full stroke during idle conditions.
The pump needs gravity to fill it during the inlet stroke since the pump
basically functions more as a metering device than a pump(it is not a precision
type and has fairly loose fitting parts) but it creates enough pressure to open
the springloaded checkvalves which require about 6" of mercury to operate
properly.
The pump is internally lubricated by "blow-by"oil untill full and has no visible
means of other lubrication of the gears. Any oil leaking from the small shaft
seal inside will run into the rotating valve cavity on the carbside and be
absorbed by the engine.
If you have a hard starting engine and find excessive amount of injection oil in
one or both of the carbs/air intake after a prolonged interval(several weeks)
you may have worn or stuck open checkvalves.
Frank Reynen MKIII@565hrs (stored till spring)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "merle hargis" <merlepilar(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I will be traveling to Torremolinos Spain the first week of Jan. 2000. Does
anyone on the list live or fly there? If so maybe I could visit.
Merle & Pilar Hargis
Twinstar in Orlando, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Rotax 912 and piston kits |
Hi Frank, and no-no-no-no ! ! ! The Vdub is alive (almost) and well.
We've pretty well narrowed down the electronics, and the built engine is
ready to mount. I passed on the 912 info as a public (??) service, cause I
thought others might be interested. It's good to hear from you. How do you
like the 912, now that you have some hours on it ?? Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 1999 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fw: Rotax 912 and piston kits
>
> Hi Lar,
> Why are you interested in this mod? Are you changing your mind on the VW
engine
> you currently building up for your MKIII.
> Personally I would not touch this mod for the same reasons Rotax states
since it
> "may" degrade the excellent endurance record of the 912 and this is
precisely
> the reason why I choose it over other cheaper 4-strokers for my MKIII .
>
> Frank Reynen MKIII@565hrs
>
>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: Rotax 912 and piston kits
>
>
>
> Hey gang, this was sent to me by an interested friend, and I kinda thought
> it would be of interest to some. See whatcha think.
> Interested Lar.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 1999 2:35 PM
> Subject: Rotax 912 and piston kits
>
>
> > News Release
> >
> > For Immediate Release
> >
> > Kodiak Research Ltd. Releases Service Letter SL-1-KUL-1999 Covering The
> Use Of
> > After-market 'High Performance' Piston Kits.
> >
> > Sept. 9, 1999
> >
> > Kodiak Research Ltd. - Nassau, Bahamas, the American distributor of
Rotax
> > aircraft engines, released an important Service Letter covering the use
of
> > third party 'high performance' piston kits to improve the performance of
> 912
> > / 914 series engines.
>
> _
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: hole in fuel tank |
Is there something you all
>would recommend to fix this darn fool tank?
>
>Thanks in advance for any help, Bil Mk III sn 213 The
>"Millennium Bug"
>
>
a vew years ago we bought some water tanks from a local suply store, they look
the same as what i see in the photos, (i bought the alum tank)
anyway the tanks were only 5 or 6 bucks. even if they have gone up to 10 or 12
it is probably as eaasy to go and buy a new one and save all the trouble. you
could probably spend most of that on a repair kit. maby check with kolb and
if it a special tank,,,, maby i am full of hot air.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
I want to put my two cents in here. As I understand it from trying to get a
replacement tank cap, they are really chemical jugs. I am not sure where or
what chemicals come in them but that is what they are. If you want to, try
to contact chemical factories and find out. One of the hardest things to
find is a replacement cap for a firestar tank. All Kolb would tell me is
they only have tanks and no caps. What kind of carbage is that? Why wont
they stock a few caps. They stock tanks. What are we supposed to do for
caps. Maybe I am missing the boat there but what do I know. I had to find a
used one and steal the cap. Do they stock them now? Let me know. thanks.
G'day Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
Lindy brings up a worthwhile point, excessive water pressure can destroy
the best oil seals. Just in the For What It's Worth department, I had a 532
on my J-6, and it had plenty of radiator, so I used a non-pressurized cap,
zero water pressure. Worked just fine, temperatures normal, and never had
to worry about the seals again. Experiment carefully. If you have a non
stock radiator with extra cooling ability, you may be able to improve your
odds. As long as you keep the coolant mixed 50/50, and don't fly too high,
it won't boil at recommended Rotax temperatures. I did have an extra large
coolant reserve tank, so I didn't have to worry about evaporation in an
unpressurized system.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>your answer was well written and logical but you forgot one important thing
>about the 582. Let me explain. I do not want to get into a pissing contest
>with all the Rotax experts on this list but the 582 has a few major
>problems. Let me explain.I just found water in the oil-my new 582-total time
>30 hours.
>
>Water getting into the oil--It is not the boiling point of the water that is
>the question-it is how much pressure the rotary valve seals can hold in the
>water side. They are rated to hold approximately 9 lbs. of water pressure.
>Most caps are = to 15 psi in metric conversion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Worthington" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/29/99 |
I have started covering my Firestar and hope to be flying in about three
months. I am looking for someone that can provide some dual instruction in
a Kolb. Anyone know of a Kolb instructor west of the Mississippi?
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Rotax 912 on MKIII progress report |
Hi Larry, glad you asked.
I managed to rack up 75 hrs on the 912 engine since new and have felt much safer
flying this engine compared to the 582 because of the tremenduous reliability it
has shown since its inception in 1989/90. I only wished it had a better gearbox
design such as the C- or E-model with the rubber donut to isolate the engine and
prop vibrations. The 912 package is decidedly noisier and has a peculiar rithmic
sound in the 4-5K rpm that you cannot adjust out (per J Hauck) and may be one of
the reasons he does not cruise in this range.
The design of the oilcan could be better since its shape does not lend itself to
an easy component integration for a Kolb design.
I deviated from the Rotax preferred installation and mounted the can under the
engine against the back of the cage together with the oilcooler which increases
the suction height to the oilpump past Rotax limits by a few inches but this has
not caused a problem and the oilpressure is normal.( use EIS engine monitor)The
radiator is mounted in front of the engine on a bracket bolted to the cage to
minimise vibration.
The extra power to the 72" IVO is evident and the savings in gas and 2-stroke
oil almost makes me forget the high initial cost.
I think that I save about one gall of gas for every hour of flying compared to
the 582 and with the 16 Gall tanks have more than 4 hours range.The dual exhaust
pipes make for a compact low height engine installation.
The higher trustline of the 912 is noticable when you increase power and it
requires more backpressure during takeoff.
The take-off "roll" ( I have a float plane as some of you know) is about the
same and maybe due to the increased weight of the 912(about 32lbs in my case).
When flying solo,the lefthand turning prop balances the pilots weight better and
the aileron control pressure is much reduced.
The extra torque available in the 4-strokes in the midrange cannot be absorbed
by a fixed prop design and causes a worse speedcontrol and I find it harder to
set a specific rpm to balance the trim setting for constant altitude.( Yes
Larry, I come from the school that uses the throtlle as an altitude control).
One other major change I made to the std 912 engine configuration (with idea
borrowed from John H) is to turn the carbs and intakes around to the back where
they sit nice and compact next to the gearbox and the flat Rotax airfilters are
about 3-4" distance from the IVO with the 3" extension. This mod lowered my max.
height to less than 7' (on the Full Lotus amphib wheels)
(no prop) or 2-blade Magnum to roll it in the garage for the winter. The
carbs/airfilters are extra secured by L-brackets to the gearbox to prevent going
through the prop if they broke loose.This mod also required an extra "Z" bracket
to secure the ignition modules normally held by the intake manifold.
This way, the carbs are in the slipstream of the warm engine and have less
tendency for carb ice buildup such as in a tractor design.
In conclusion, I am very happy with the overall performance of the 912mkIII and
hope to be flying it for many hours in the future.
Have a Happy New year.
Frank Reynen MKIII@565hrs(ser#022)
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
PS; All airplane pictures still show 582 engine but a new digital camera is on
hand for updating webpage. I promise! !
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fw: Rotax 912 and piston kits
Hi Frank, and no-no-no-no ! ! ! The Vdub is alive (almost) and well.
We've pretty well narrowed down the electronics, and the built engine is
ready to mount. I passed on the 912 info as a public (??) service, cause I
thought others might be interested. It's good to hear from you. How do you
like the 912, now that you have some hours on it ?? Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
>From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
>
>
>Lindy brings up a worthwhile point, excessive water pressure can destroy
>the best oil seals. Just in the For What It's Worth department, I had a 532
>on my J-6, Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
Richard, May I ask you how many hours you put on your 532 with that set up?
Firehawk
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | More on the icing thread |
Hi Larry and list members.
I am sorry for not responding sooner to your request for a flying story.
I have been very busy lately, mostly preparing for the x-mas holiday, with
lost of honey dos around the house. No FLYING and No BUILDING aircraft.
Lots of unread mail from the Kolb and Zenith lists.
My Firestar II is sitting in the garage with my Zenith 701 parts and I have
not had a chance to fly my Firestar since Oct 16.
Too transport my plane from home to the garage to the airport is just too
much hassle without an enclosed trailer. (Like the one Duane from Tallahasse
has for his Firefly. Nice Trailer)
I could fly all year round, if I had a Hangar or a Trailer, but this will
hopefully change before next winter, when I have built my trailer.
But at this time, sorry, not interesting flying stories from Iceland.
Thank you all for a great year on the list and all the help from you
experianced flyers. Happy new flying year 2000.
Johann G.
Iceland.
Firestar II 47 hours
Zenith 701, 50 hours building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
Okay folks, here's your chance. I am a student ultralight pilot. Should be
finished my training within 90 days, weather permitting. I truly love flying
and intend to purchase an ultralight in the Spring/Summer.
I have been watching this group for several weeks and there seems to be a
fair amount of knowledge floating around out here. Would like any input on
the following models: Kolb FF and FS, single Hawk Arrow and single Drifter.
The only one I've flown is the Drifter so That's it as far as hands-on
experience.
Also, most of the models I'm interested in come with a Rotax 447. I am
inclined to upgrade to a dual carb 503, any thoughts? Any input on these
subjects would be greatly appreciated.
WCC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
WCC,
You might look in the new Ultralight Flying Magazine (paper). I saw Kolb
advertising on Page 38. They must be selling their demos. There have FSII,
Slingshot and a MarkIII. I know all these birds and their prices are very
reasonable. That Slingshot is my dream. It climbs like a Space Shuttle and
you could run it in the house it is so quite.
Bill Beam
FS, 503, Powerfin
Wilmore, Ky.
billbeam(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
In a message dated 12/30/99 7:50:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, Curbut(at)aol.com
writes:
<< : Kolb FF and FS, single Hawk Arrow and single Drifter.
>>
'WCC.....I looked at CGS also and picked the Kolb over it because:
Kolb mounts engine higher allowing the swing of a larger prop for a better
drive circle..more options on pitch/torque/horsepower for steeper climb
versus faster speeds
and
the engine on the Kolb is farther away from your ears!! for the same
reason...engine is mounted OUTSIDE and above instead of nearly inside for the
CGS....I'll grant you the drive line is more in line with the wing on the CGS
but the extra moment on the Kolb has never been a real problem...only
something to be aware of on fast torque change and speed change. ....I really
wanted to get a CGS too, cause they are manufactured no more than 15 miles
away from me. .......................Needless to say, I am the only Kolb
around here......... GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
Not sure. Just did an annual on it last month with the current owner, and
wrote the hours down, I think in the 300 hour range.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>
>>From: Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com>
>>
>>
>>Lindy brings up a worthwhile point, excessive water pressure can destroy
>>the best oil seals. Just in the For What It's Worth department, I had a 532
>>on my J-6, Richard Pike
>>MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Richard, May I ask you how many hours you put on your 532 with that set up?
>Firehawk
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil injection |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
| Subject: | ALERT! tonight's the nite |
WARNING
12:00 O'CLOCK MIDNIGHT TONIGHT ALL NON COMPLIANT KOLB AIRCRAFT (y2k not
fat), REVERT BACK INTO
PTERODACTYLS !
Happy Y2K,
Eugene Z (bugGGedd)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
>
www.mindspring.com/~possums
>Okay folks, here's your chance. I am a student ultralight pilot. Should be
>finished my training within 90 days, weather permitting. I truly love
flying
>and intend to purchase an ultralight in the Spring/Summer.
>
>I have been watching this group for several weeks and there seems to be a
>fair amount of knowledge floating around out here. Would like any input on
>the following models: Kolb FF and FS, single Hawk Arrow and single Drifter.
>The only one I've flown is the Drifter so That's it as far as hands-on
>experience.
>
>Also, most of the models I'm interested in come with a Rotax 447. I am
>inclined to upgrade to a dual carb 503, any thoughts? Any input on these
>subjects would be greatly appreciated.
> WCC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: replacement tank cap |
Subject: Kolb-List: re: tanks
I want to put my two cents in here. As I understand it from trying to get a
replacement tank cap, they are really chemical jugs. <<<<
i have seen this type of jug at dairy barns, the local airport, crop dusting
services, machine shops , janitorial supply just use your imagination.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
WCC,
Ill toss in 2 cents worth too. Keep in mind that the suggestions you get
are based on peoples experience and personal opinions, and everyone will
like or dislike different characteristics of each plane. Same with me.
I have some hours in a Hawk Arrow that I finished for a customer(then
rebuilt after a shear got him on approach and slammed him to the deck. I
saw that one and couldnt believe my eyes). The Hawk had the Hirth engine
and was a real powerhouse. Great climb. Mediocre roll rate, but not as
slow as a challenger by any means. The metalized leading edge helped the
top speed a lot. The thing would cruise at 85, and topped out a 95!(IAS)
The nose gear was a joke(like the Challenger)and we ended up fabbing a
new one with a knuckle and bungee cord. It was the ONLY part that was
undamaged in the accident. An important thing to remember is that if you
hit hard enough to bend the main gear leg sockets, you will probably
also ruin the fuselage/tail tube, which is a HUGE job to repair.
Overall, I like the plane. It handles well and is real wide and comfy.
Much roomier than a Kolb FSII.
I also have a brand new FSII. It also was wrecked by the owner on
takeoff(nobody ever brings me "un-wrecked planes! :} ) It literally was
cartwheeled across a pasture, and we were shocked that the pilot was
uninjured! The tail snapped off near the fuselage, the wing tips bent,
bent ribs, mains snapped off, and slightly twisted the fuselage. For
what it went through, the plane should have been a total write off, but
I had her like new in two months (TNK company was "Johnny on the Spot").
My first impression (listers may remember me whining about the soft
rudder) was that the plane needed a larger rudder or more dihedral. I
added Velcro gap seals to the tail feathers and got a tremendous
improvement. Also, the plane really is different to fly than a lot of
the U/L`s out there that have lots of dihedral. You have to FLY the
plane! It is really a sharp handling bird! It climbs(with a 503 DCDI)
like a rocket with my 280 lbs, but as I am 6'4" tall, the wing is WAY
too close to my head, so I have to remove the gap seal to fly it. Looks
funny, but works fine(rumors abound that like the Halloween story of the
headless horseman,..........)
I think the landing gear on the FSII is better because there is clearly
less chance of damaging the airframe in a "bad one" than with the Hawk.
The gearlegs are a lot easier(and cheaper) to replace than the fuselage
tube on the Hawk, in the event of a crunch. Additionally, the Hawks
fuselage is all pop rivited, and when Kip crunched his, it sheared 50 to
60% of the rivits in the fuselage, destroying a lot of gussets and tubes
in the process.
IMHO, the Kolb is much more crashworthy, Both planes fly well, handle
well, and are priced right. If the Hawk has an advantage, it is in the
roomy cabin, and nose wheel steering. Taildraggers are my favorite, but
some people dont want to invest a little extra effort to learn to fly a
taildragger. The Kolb is easy actually (try the Pitts S2). For folding
the plane up, nothing beats a Kolb. The Hawk has folding wings, but they
take an hour to fold. Major pain in the rear.
I hate to do it, but I am selling the Kolb as it is just not big enough
for me to be able to really enjoy the plane. Guess Ill have to stick
with driving a bus(S12) for awhile. Better than walking.....
Wish someone would build a FSII with the wing 12 inches farther above
the fuselage....
Disclaimer--- Before you drag out the flamethrowers- remember that these
are just my opinions, and you know what they say about opinions.....
Mike
Olympic Ultralights
> Okay folks, here's your chance. I am a student ultralight pilot. Should be
> finished my training within 90 days, weather permitting. I truly love flying
> and intend to purchase an ultralight in the Spring/Summer.
>
> I have been watching this group for several weeks and there seems to be a
> fair amount of knowledge floating around out here. Would like any input on
> the following models: Kolb FF and FS, single Hawk Arrow and single Drifter.
> The only one I've flown is the Drifter so That's it as far as hands-on
> experience.
>
> Also, most of the models I'm interested in come with a Rotax 447. I am
> inclined to upgrade to a dual carb 503, any thoughts? Any input on these
> subjects would be greatly appreciated.
> WCC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
Gettin to the realization that I probably won't get much more flyin for a
while, winter and everything else. What is the deal with foggin the engine.
What do you guys use? Will it las till spring?
(Please type "Thumbs" in the subject box so I don't miss your message.)
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
gbthacker(at)hotmail.com
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
For your information-Located at Waldan Field-the home of the Southern Flyers
USUA club 409-their is a Hawk Arrow with the Jap HKS 71 installed-it was the
first hawk with the HKS installed in pusher configuration.Problems-many-that
have been solved-sure saved Chuck a bundle! R&D that is!
Many on this list have seen it fly and aware of the performance capabilities
also its problems.both airframe and especially cooling problems cause by oil
cooled valves.Excellent fuel consumption! A very expensive engine!
Lindy
LA- Lower Alabama
Mark3 #043
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "merle hargis" <merlepilar(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine fogging |
Happy new year to all. Fly safe and enjoy.
Merle & Pilar Hargis
Twinstar in Orlando
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
Possum wrote:
>
>
> >
>
> www.mindspring.com/~possums
>
> >Okay folks, here's your chance. I am a student ultralight pilot. Should be
> >finished my training within 90 days, weather permitting. I truly love
> flying
> >and intend to purchase an ultralight in the Spring/Summer.
> >
> >I have been watching this group for several weeks and there seems to be a
> >fair amount of knowledge floating around out here. Would like any input on
> >the following models: Kolb FF and FS, single Hawk Arrow and single Drifter.
> >The only one I've flown is the Drifter so That's it as far as hands-on
> >experience.
> >
> >Also, most of the models I'm interested in come with a Rotax 447. I am
> >inclined to upgrade to a dual carb 503, any thoughts? Any input on these
> >subjects would be greatly appreciated.
> > WCC
Would suggest that you also consider a single place Challenger. Most
common power for CL I is the dual carb 503. It has many of the same
features of the Kolbs and the Hawk, but is very different from a Drifter
of course. Very nice feature is the ease with which the doors can be
put on or taken off to fit the day's weather.
All of these are fine Uls, and you won't go wrong with any of them.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine fogging |
>Sounds like a personal problem to me.
>Firehawk
You said a mouth full there. ;-{
(Please type "Thumbs" in the subject box so I don't miss your message.)
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
gbthacker(at)hotmail.com
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Brown <motavia(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine fogging |
Go to yer boat supply shop and get outboard engine fogger oil.
We pull the air cleaners and shoot it into the carbs, with the throttle
wide open, with the ignition switches off, or the plug wires off, and
spin it with the electric starter or the pull start. Spray it in with
the engine turning and it will coat everything pretty well.
CAUTION!!!! The engine will run on this stuff! If you have the ignition
on while doing this, yer asking for it! I just get on a ladder in front
of the wing and lean over and spray it in while a helper spins the
engine.
Happy new year and God bless all of ya`s!
Mike Brown
Oly Ultra
(I gotta go warm up the generator and load the guns now.....Heh, Heh!!!)
Just kidding. Maybe
Gary Thacker wrote:
>
>
> Gettin to the realization that I probably won't get much more flyin for a
> while, winter and everything else. What is the deal with foggin the engine.
> What do you guys use? Will it las till spring?
>
> (Please type "Thumbs" in the subject box so I don't miss your message.)
>
> Gary
>
> Souderton,Pa.
> gbthacker(at)hotmail.com
>
> |
> ____F i r e S t a r____
> ___(+)___
> (_)
> \ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sharp" <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com> |
Folks,
I have tried on numerous occations to get the info from old and new kolb..
can anyone out there supply me with drawings and or pictures of the plumbing
for the 16 gal Aluminum fuel tank that is an option for the Mark III???????
Hope this gets thru..... Y2K Ya'll.....
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Al fuel tank |
Tried to email you twice, using different configurations of your address.
Try emailing me, so I can try a reply. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Sharp <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, December 31, 1999 10:31 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Al fuel tank
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I have tried on numerous occations to get the info from old and new kolb..
> can anyone out there supply me with drawings and or pictures of the
plumbing
> for the 16 gal Aluminum fuel tank that is an option for the Mark
III???????
>
> Hope this gets thru..... Y2K Ya'll.....
>
> mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Al fuel tank |
I'd like to be copied the same info Mike Sharp is requesting. I'm ready to
cover the fuselage and I'm trying to figure out whether to go with the
aluminum tank. Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Saturday, January 01, 2000 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Al fuel tank
>
>Tried to email you twice, using different configurations of your address.
>Try emailing me, so I can try a reply. Big Lar.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Michael Sharp <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Friday, December 31, 1999 10:31 PM
>Subject: Kolb-List: Al fuel tank
>
>
>>
>>
>> Folks,
>>
>> I have tried on numerous occations to get the info from old and new
kolb..
>> can anyone out there supply me with drawings and or pictures of the
>plumbing
>> for the 16 gal Aluminum fuel tank that is an option for the Mark
>III???????
>>
>> Hope this gets thru..... Y2K Ya'll.....
>>
>> mike
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: replacement tank cap |
In a message dated 12/31/99 11:24:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,
byoung(at)brigham.net writes:
<< As I understand it from trying to get a
replacement tank cap, they are really chemical jugs. <<<< >>
When I bought my almost completed Firestar it had a 5 gal. Kolb tank and a 6
gal. tank of unknown manufacture; I thought "Kool, no-one will notice it's
not 5 gal" but then I noticed the thickness was only about half of the Kolb
tank. I began to think of the consequences of a ruptured tank, so Kolb tank
it is.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/27/99 |
In a message dated 12/31/99 1:01:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
motavia(at)olypen.com writes:
<< Wish someone would build a FSII with the wing 12 inches farther above
the fuselage.... >>
Hey Mike!!!
I'm only 6' tall & my helmet rubs the solid gap seal on my Firestar I also.
What I am going to do is to cut about a 12" diameter hole in the bottom of
the gap seal and then pop rivet in a Tupperware type bowl for my helmet to
fit up in. This mod. should work for even a 6'4 guy.
Are the rudder pedals workable with your height? A friend of mine has just
ordered a FS I and is 6'4 and is wondering about that.
I think the only thing I would change on the Firestar I design is to make
the seat adjustable [on rails] for short or tall guys.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net> |
I want to thank all that responded to my question regarding
what type of oil is best for my Rotax 447. As expected,
there was a wide range of opinions concerning the type and
ratio of mixture to be used. It's a little bit like asking
which is the best automobile out there.
But, I do appreciate all of the input being a newbie that
doesn't want to have a failure as I witnessed a few weeks
ago. Best conclusion I can come up with is that I'm going
to switch to Pennzoil Air Cooled as soon as I can get some,
they don't seem to know what I'm talking about around here.
If that is what the Rotax certified dealers are pushing and
if it produces lest carbon, I will stick with it. I'm
getting great performance now with the Kendall that I'm
using, but don't know how much carbon is too much on top of
cylinder.
As an update on my friends 447 from the damaged Drifter. He
pulled the engine apart and showed me the crankshaft. Four
of the five main bearings are gone with one frozen in the
center. The only good one was the one at the starter pulley
end. There was no carbon build up on the piston skirts, a
little in the ring grooves and on the piston top. No sign
of seizing on the cylinder walls. He checked his records
and found that he had about 180 hr. on the engine since it
was rebuilt. As stated before, he has been using Amsoil at
100 to 1. Here's the scary part for me! When looking
closely at the main bearings, notice that they were made in
the Republic of China. Still can't examine the bearings
internally because we have no way of separating the crank.
One last thing, his engine is mounted inverted if that makes
any difference.
So!!!!!! I guess I'll give the Pennzoil a try and see if
there any improvement on carbon deposits. If not I will
either go back to my Kendall (Penna Oil Refinery) or
reconsider a synthetic.
Hey Ole! Didn't even know about Pennzoil synt-o-mix.
Thanks! You ought to see the queer looks I get when asking
about that. I'm still trying to find a supplier other than
catalogs because of shipping charges.
Got to fly on Dec. 31 and had a great time. A tad chilly
here in Penna.this time of year. But you know these new
guys, fly when ever possible. Disappointed I couldn't fly
the first day of the new millennium, but weather and a visit
from in-laws decided that.
Again thanks to everyone on the list for your concern and
advice.
Terry K. FF# 95 57 hr.and counting!
P.S. Why do my postings always show up twice on the list.
Help!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Discussion-supplier |
Terry, I am not sure where you live but Pennzoil should have a distributor in
your area. Locate them and explain that no retailer carry the oil. They will
supply it to you or occasionally recommend an outlet. They have never failed
to sell direct to me in several different locales I have lived. It will also
be very cheap by the case. Get out the phone book and find the distributor,
call Penn. Co. and ask them for a distributor or outlet. No need for
subterfuge, they know what you are going to use the oil in and will be happy
to help you. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Discussion-supplier |
If you can't find pennzoil locally check out this web page to buy PENNZOIL
2-CYCLE AIR-COOLED ENGINE OIL
http://store.yahoo.com/oilstore/penaircool2c.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Discussion |
Let's say a 447 burns 3 gallons of gas per hour. At a 50:1 fuel/oil mix,
that's 7.8 ounces of oil going through the engine per hour to lubricate it.
But at 100:1, you only have 3.9 ounces available to lubricate it. Picture
five main bearings, two big end bearings, two wrist pin bearings, and two
cylinders bearing lubricated for an hour while running between 5-6000 rpm,
and generating 1,000 degrees of heat, and you wonder how the thing survives
on just under 8 ounces, much less half as much. Since it lasted 180 hours
at that ratio, Amsoil must not be too shabby. If he had run it at 50:1 like
Rotax calls for, I bet it would still be running.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>I want to thank all that responded to my question regarding
>what type of oil is best for my Rotax 447.
>As an update on my friends 447 from the damaged Drifter. He
>pulled the engine apart and showed me the crankshaft. Four
>of the five main bearings are gone with one frozen in the
>center. The only good one was the one at the starter pulley
>end. There was no carbon build up on the piston skirts, a
>little in the ring grooves and on the piston top. No sign
>of seizing on the cylinder walls. He checked his records
>and found that he had about 180 hr. on the engine since it
>was rebuilt. As stated before, he has been using Amsoil at
>100 to 1.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Discussion |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> Let's say a 447 burns 3 gallons of gas per hour. At a 50:1 fuel/oil mix,
> that's 7.8 ounces of oil going through the engine per hour to lubricate it.
> But at 100:1, you only have 3.9 ounces available to lubricate it. Picture
> five main bearings, two big end bearings, two wrist pin bearings, and two
> cylinders bearing lubricated for an hour while running between 5-6000 rpm,
> and generating 1,000 degrees of heat, and you wonder how the thing survives
> on just under 8 ounces, much less half as much. Since it lasted 180 hours
> at that ratio, Amsoil must not be too shabby. If he had run it at 50:1 like
> Rotax calls for, I bet it would still be running.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
> >
> >I want to thank all that responded to my question regarding
> >what type of oil is best for my Rotax 447.
> >As an update on my friends 447 from the damaged Drifter. He
> >pulled the engine apart and showed me the crankshaft. Four
> >of the five main bearings are gone with one frozen in the
> >center. The only good one was the one at the starter pulley
> >end. There was no carbon build up on the piston skirts, a
> >little in the ring grooves and on the piston top. No sign
> >of seizing on the cylinder walls. He checked his records
> >and found that he had about 180 hr. on the engine since it
> >was rebuilt. As stated before, he has been using Amsoil at
> >100 to 1.
Problems of this type rarely (IMHO) take place a "little at a time"
until finally the "threshold of tolerance" is passed and it fails.
More likely the whole problem took place in the final hour(s).
Do we know FOR CERTAIN that the final tank of 100 to 1 was REALLY 100 to
1? Is it not possible that just this once an error in preparing the mix
took place? It is not unheard of for a mix up of fuel cans has resulted
in straight gas being added to the tank of a two cycle engine.
Do we know FOR CERTAIN that the engine was operated in the normal manner
and that on this last flight?
Not accusing anyone of goofing up or anything like that. Errors can
happen with all of us. Amsoil has been used for a very long very
successfully without developing a reputation for problems of this sort.
The main question that most have had about Amsoil has been its
lubricating ability of the engine parts when it sits a long period of
time without running.
Not that I am not particularly a backer of Amsoil, and am currently in
the process of deciding between Amsoil and Penzoil for air cooled
engines. I am fully convinced that either of them will work very well,
and decision will probably be based on convenience.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Discussion |
TK wrote:
>
>
> I want to thank all that responded to my question regarding
> what type of oil is best for my Rotax 447. As expected,
> there was a wide range of opinions concerning the type and
> ratio of mixture to be used. It's a little bit like asking
> which is the best automobile out there.
>
> But, I do appreciate all of the input being a newbie that
> doesn't want to have a failure as I witnessed a few weeks
> ago. Best conclusion I can come up with is that I'm going
> to switch to Pennzoil Air Cooled as soon as I can get some,
> they don't seem to know what I'm talking about around here.
One warning! Pennzoil for 2 cycle Air Cooled engines IS NOT REPEAT IS
NOT the same as the Pennzoil 2 cycle oil you will find at K-Mart,
WalMart or other such places. These are designed primarily for outboard
motors where there is GOBS of cooling capacity from the constantly
circulating water.
Most UL dealers have Pennzoil available, and most people buy by the
case.
> Again thanks to everyone on the list for your concern and
> advice.
>
> Terry K. FF# 95 57 hr.and counting!
>
> P.S. Why do my postings always show up twice on the list.
> Help!
Don't know the reason for the double posts, but you are not alone.
There are two or three others on lists that I am on that have the same
trouble. None have been able to figure out just why it happens.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Discussion |
A When looking
>closely at the main bearings, notice that they were made in
>the Republic of China. Still can't examine the bearings
>internally because we have no way of separating the crank.
I don't know if it is a fact but in my experience with bearingss the asian
ones do not seem to hold up near as well as the German or American. I will
allways pay the couple bucks extra for a good bearing. I will find another
bearing store if they will not sell me a non asian bearing.
Woody
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brain Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Discussion |
Has anyone tried Rotax synthetic oil as recommended in their personal water
craft? A snowmobile dealer told me that
snowmobiles are haveing great results with it.
Kim Steiner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Discussion |
This really concerns me. Rotax doesn't use Chinese bearings in their
Austrian made and overpriced engines do they?
That might be OK in a snowmobile engine
or personal watercraft (which the UL engines are derived from) but not
in something this costly and with potential for death.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Discussion |
dann mann wrote:
>
>
> This really concerns me. Rotax doesn't use Chinese bearings in their
> Austrian made and overpriced engines do they?
no, thats right. always use the original FAG-bearings. at the sime time
;i read that this particular engine was operated inverted. we have out
of our experience concluded that inverted installations do have a higher
bearing failure rate than uprights. we think that this is caused by the
engines lesser lubrication when stored for loger periods.
ole
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rotax 582 high EGT |
I have a Kolb Mark III with 582 Rotax engine with approx. 100 hours of total
time. I am experiencing high EGT readings ( 1250 deg.) at cruise power. I
have increased the fuel jet to no avail. The sparkplugs indicate a rich
mixture ( black base). Any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rotax 582 high EGT |
ALL EGT temperatures are relative. EGT is relative to the altitude, the air
density, the power, the humidity, location of the probe, and the probe
itself.
1250 is not high. Your exhaust stack is a better reference than the EGT.
EGT is a means to lean using the temperature shown on the gage.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: AULSU(at)aol.com <AULSU(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, January 02, 2000 3:37 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: rotax 582 high EGT
>
>I have a Kolb Mark III with 582 Rotax engine with approx. 100 hours of
total
>time. I am experiencing high EGT readings ( 1250 deg.) at cruise power. I
>have increased the fuel jet to no avail. The sparkplugs indicate a rich
>mixture ( black base). Any suggestions?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/30/99 |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12/30/99 |
Matt, E- Mail me your post office address. It's about time I sent you some
support. Could you also unsubscribe me from all lists except Kolb? Thanks G.
Aman Akron Ohio FS2 30hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rotax 582 high EGT |
I must disagree with Cy. EGT is the primary indicator for what is happening
in your engine in a two-stroke engine and is not a means of 'leaning by the
gauge". I also think that 1250 is very much to high if in fact that is the
actual EGT, assuming your probes are correctly mounted and the gauge is
reasonably accurate. In fact I disagree with most of that post. The Rotax
manual is specific about desired EGT range and can assure you that 1300
degrees is a very unlucky number for Rotax two-stroke engines. You probably
need to increase prop loading--what was your static RPM? EGT is used to lean
for economy, peak and so on with four stroke aircraft engines but not so with
two-stroke Rotax--it is a primary indicator just like coolant temp or oil
pressure/oil temp in a Lycoming. 1050-1150-OK, 1125-1175--very good,
1200-1250, getting too lean, 1250-1300, not good and 1300 plus you might say
a prayer. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody Weaver <mts0140(at)ibm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rotax 582 high EGT |
AULSU(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I have a Kolb Mark III with 582 Rotax engine with approx. 100 hours of total
> time. I am experiencing high EGT readings ( 1250 deg.) at cruise power. I
> have increased the fuel jet to no avail. The sparkplugs indicate a rich
> mixture ( black base). Any suggestions?
>
> _-
Aw Geez! Not you too!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 10,000 ft. flight |
Today here in the Dc area, Virginia area it was beautiful so I went flying
for the first time in a month. I was getting 1000 feet a minute climb at
50mph in my Firestar2, what an awsome day flying. The temp on the ground was
in the mid 60's.
I always wanted to climb to 10,000 feet and today I did just that. I was
climbing at 5-700 feet a minute at 5500rpm until about 7000 feet, then my
climb went down to 2-300 feet a minute all the way until 10,000. Had a nice
headwind and at 8000 feet my GPS said my ground speed was about 10mph. What a
lot of fun. Thats the highest I have been so far, kinda spooky up there and a
long ride down.
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I want to remove some of the velcro I have attached to my wing for the gap
seal and clean it up and replace it with some more. Does anybody have an idea
of a solvent that will soften the glue and help me remove the velcro without
attacking the Poly Tone paint. Or does anybody have a better tide??
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rotax 582 high EGT |
| From: | Ralph H Burlingame <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
AULSU,
You may want to check the archives because this has been discussed many
times in the past. One question for you: have you experienced normal EGT
readings in the past and is this the first time flying it on a colder
day? EGT will rise on colder days because the sensor is calibrated at 70
deg F. The difference between 70 and OAT will be the higher reading above
the norm. I have an Original FireStar where the normal reading on a 30
deg day is 1250. Why? Because I am using an older muffler where the
sensor placement is in the "Y" of the exhaust manifold. I drilled the
hole there years ago before there was a specification for sensor
distance. I use the EGT as a reference indication only and know by
looking at the plugs, that things are fine in the cylinders. I fly weekly
year round and have not noticed any problems. I have the stock jetting
and placement on the jet needle. I do not change anything from summer to
winter because the cooler and denser air will compensate the mixture
automatically (look at the Bing jetting charts). During the summer
months, the jetting is slightly rich and will cool the engine better.
Earlier in my flying days I experimented with changing the jetting and
decided not to do this because I have sooty plug readings using the
mineral oil. No, of course, I use Klotz (KL-216) all-synthetic (50:1) and
things all running very smooth.
Ralph
Original FS, 12 years flying
>
> I have a Kolb Mark III with 582 Rotax engine with approx. 100 hours
> of total
> time. I am experiencing high EGT readings ( 1250 deg.) at cruise
> power. I
> have increased the fuel jet to no avail. The sparkplugs indicate a
> rich
> mixture ( black base). Any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | rotax 582 high EGT |
Its sounds like your engine is actually running very rich - but reading lean
on the EGT. Probably the EGT probe is located in the wrong position in the
exhaust manifold. It should be 100 mm from the piston. I have heard of
similiar scenarios and it turns out the probe was located at the Y. For
some reason, when lacking specific instruction, folks tend to place them
there. Anyway, the first thing to check is the locatation of the EGT probe.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of AULSU(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 4:21 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: rotax 582 high EGT
I have a Kolb Mark III with 582 Rotax engine with approx. 100 hours of total
time. I am experiencing high EGT readings ( 1250 deg.) at cruise power. I
have increased the fuel jet to no avail. The sparkplugs indicate a rich
mixture ( black base). Any suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: velcro removal |
How about using a hairdryer to warm the adhesive? It might just peel off
when warm.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, January 02, 2000 8:04 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: velcro removal
>
>I want to remove some of the velcro I have attached to my wing for the gap
>seal and clean it up and replace it with some more. Does anybody have an
idea
>of a solvent that will soften the glue and help me remove the velcro
without
>attacking the Poly Tone paint. Or does anybody have a better tide??
>
>tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: velcro removal |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Goo-Gone, a citrus based product available at Wal-mart etc. will soften
most adhesives. Very inexpensive and will not hurt the paint. I have
not tried it on Poly-Tack. Will do so tomorrow.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN 312--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
Best bearings money can buy is the swedish "SKF", supplier to Ferrari Formula One
racecars and others.
Hakan
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Frn: wood [SMTP:duesouth(at)iname.com]
Skickat: den 2 januari 2000 17:18
Till: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
mne: Re: Kolb-List: Oil Discussion
A When looking
>closely at the main bearings, notice that they were made in
>the Republic of China. Still can't examine the bearings
>internally because we have no way of separating the crank.
I don't know if it is a fact but in my experience with bearingss the asian
ones do not seem to hold up near as well as the German or American. I will
allways pay the couple bucks extra for a good bearing. I will find another
bearing store if they will not sell me a non asian bearing.
Woody
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: velcro removal |
Timandjan(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I want to remove some of the velcro I have attached to my wing for the gap
> seal and clean it up and replace it with some more. Does anybody have an idea
> of a solvent that will soften the glue and help me remove the velcro without
> attacking the Poly Tone paint. Or does anybody have a better tide??
>
> tim
I assume that the hook and loop fasteners you used were made with
pressure sensative adhesives already in place. If so, I would first try
alcohol, preferably ETOH. This will not hurt PolyTone, and many
adhesives are alcohol soluable. Any ketones will harm the PolyTone, so
avoid them for sure. If you have any of the material still left, or if
you can go to the original source and get some you might experiment on
this first with other solvents to see which will work.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: velcro removal |
Tim,
I did the same thing a few months ago, I used the GooGone (sp) and just
about everything else Walmart had to offer. I found the best results were
using the GooGone. Take your time, and let the citrus do it's thing. After a
while you will get the hang of it. I also used a small plastic scraper to
remove the soft gooey mess. Have plenty of clean rags on hand and keep
telling yourself it's fun to work on your toy.
Dennis in Md.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 8:51 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: velcro removal
>
> I want to remove some of the velcro I have attached to my wing for the gap
> seal and clean it up and replace it with some more. Does anybody have an
idea
> of a solvent that will soften the glue and help me remove the velcro
without
> attacking the Poly Tone paint. Or does anybody have a better tide??
>
> tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: velcro removal |
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> How about using a hairdryer to warm the adhesive? It might just peel off
> when warm.
>
> Cy Galley
Remember that PolyTone itself softens at about 225 F! Might try using
a calibrated iron and keep it at lower temp and work on the fasteners -
might be able to soften adhesive enough to remove. Even if some damage
is done to the PolyTone in the area of the fastener strip (but none to
sourounding area) this might not hurt as new strip will be applied in
the same place. But a hair drier might damage PolyTone in areas where
it would show.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Timandjan(at)aol.com <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, January 02, 2000 8:04 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: velcro removal
>
> >
> >I want to remove some of the velcro I have attached to my wing for the gap
> >seal and clean it up and replace it with some more. Does anybody have an
> idea
> >of a solvent that will soften the glue and help me remove the velcro
> without
> >attacking the Poly Tone paint. Or does anybody have a better tide??
> >
> >tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 10,000 ft. flight |
Great flying if you re in the right place for it. Only problem is the
possibility of getting speared by departing/arriving traffic. Possibility
reduced if you have a Mode "C" transponder. ;-)
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
| Subject: | rotax 582 high EGT |
I also agreee that you should probably try to up the pitch on the engine
WITH all the jetting and needle posiitons back at standard factory
positions.
If this doesn'rt work try to return to the original jets and try moving the
jet needle up one clip position to richen the midrange a bit.
1200 is the edge of piston meltdown so be carefull your gauages are correct
and keep close tabs on your plugs. they can help you with the diagnosis of
your engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
Goo Gone! Great stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | 582 coolant pressure discussion |
A lot of good discussion about the 582 cooling system. I also have
searched for a replacement radiator cap for the Rotax split radiator,
locally at the auto parts stores, to no luck. It is a different animal.
My last cap was purchased from LEAF, and dosen't appear to be a Rotax
genuine part. It is stamped "13 psi" instead of the "0.9 bar" the Rotax
part came with.
I have been having problems with high coolant pressure for a few months
now. Here is the story: The pressure starts to rise as soon as the engine
is started. Pressure will reach 18 psi by the time the temp reaches 160.
After the engine runs for about 20 minutes in flight, the pressure comes
down to 13 psi and stays there. I have tried a new cap, a new
better-quality pressure gauge, removal of the Rotax Thermostat (it is still
out), and I retorqued the head nuts, but nothing changes the symptoms.
HOW CAN THE PRESSURE EVER GET TO 18 psi? The cap should relieve the
pressure at 13?! What am I missing here?
Why did this start happening? It did not do it for the first 90 hours, now
it is happening. My next attempt to repair will be to pull the head and
cyls and put in all new gaskets. So far, there is no coolant in the RV oil
tank, and the tank remains constant in level. So, can I assume that my RV
shaft/waterpump shaft seals are holding? They are tested to 18psi each
flight!
Anybody have any additional suggestions?
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Todd" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
| Subject: | Antifreeze leakage in the 582/532 - another side to the coin |
I just got off the phone with Jerry of GreenSky Adventures discussing the
leakage issue recently posted on the list. Here is a short version of what
he said:
The issue of the cap pressure versus RV shaft o-ring pressure limits is not
the concern.
The real issue is running antifreeze with silicates and tap water or
distilled water. The silicates along with tap water minerals and crap pack
up on the shaft infront of the o-rings and over time grind away either the
o-rings or the actual saft. According to Jerry this is what is causing the
leakage. Virtually every 532/582 he has fixed and asked the owner to run
"no silicate" antifreeze and distilled water has not come back for repair.
End of story.
One other point. The radiator cap is rated to 13/15 lbs and the engines
come from the factory runnning perfectly well. If the o-ring were only 9
lbs then the engine would leak once the pressure came up to 10 lbs and
contaminate the RV oil well. However, the only time the coolant system will
potentially develop 13 lbs or more is when you turn off an engine which has
been running hot and you turn it off. Now the stored residual temps form
1100 degree exhasut temps and such build up and this is when you could
potentially blow antifreeze by the o-rings. A new engine won't do this.
The antifreeeze expands out the radiator cap. If the o-rings or shaft has
worn then the antifreeeze could expand and leak into the RV oil tank.
The no silicate antifreeze is orange in color and identified on the label as
"no silicates". It also cost a lot more that the regulate silicate type
antifreeze. So change your antifreeze and mix 50/50 with distilled water and
you won't have leakage past the o rings or shaft. Leave the std.rotax cap on
the radiator.
BTW, Captipiller had the same problems when the silicate antifreezes came
onto the markets. They traced their leakage to the same silicates that
Green sky has traced them to. Thought you guys would like to know this
side of the coin. Now you can decide for yourself with just a bit more
information.
Todd Thompson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antifreeze leakage in the 582/532 - another side to |
the coin
Todd:
Thanks for some great info on coolant. My question is this: The Rotax
spec for antifreeze just says that the anti freeze is supposed to be aluminum
compatible. It doesn't say anything about "no silicate" anti freeze. On of
the great things about dating a cancer researcher is that I get to run triple
distilled purified water for medical experiments in my 582, but I am using
off the shelf motorcycle antifreeze (recommended by Lockwood). Has Rotax
changed its recommendation?
Do you have brand name for the "no silicate" stuff you are using?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
>I want to remove some of the velcro I have attached to my
wing for the gap
>seal and clean it up and replace it with some more. Does
anybody have an idea
>of a solvent that will soften the glue and help me remove
the velcro without
>attacking the Poly Tone paint. Or does anybody have a
better tide??
>>>>tim
i visited with someone at kolb i think it was surf. if it
was not him i am sorry. anyway he said that they use
bookbinding tape, he said to buy a roll of 2" and a roll of
1" put the 1" sticky side to sticky side down the center
of the 2" then tape the 2" to the gapseal, and when it
starts to come off or rip........ just pull it off and do it
again. i bought both the 1 and 2" rolls for about $22 and
it is enough to do it twice
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antifreeze leakage in the 582/532 - antifreeze |
Prestone Extended Life antifreeze is the most modern and advanced antifreeze
available. It is an orange colored stock and the bottle is silver. It looks
like orange drink so please keep away from kids and animals because it is
still poisonous to them. It is silicate, borate and all that stuff free and
is intended for use with all types of metal, esp aluminum! It has extra
protection for rubber seals and is a superior product--that along with
distilled water in a 50/50 mix or I use a 60 water/40 antifreeze with a touch
of Prestone water pump lubricant should do you well. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 00-01-03 7:44:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
byoung(at)brigham.net writes:
<< anyway he said that they use
bookbinding tape, >>
The company recommendation notwithstanding I think book binding tape is a
mistake. It shrinks over time and where it shrinks from it leaves residual
adhesive from the tape. This picks up dirt and dust and looks like hell
after a while. If you put new tape on you have a heck of a time getting the
dirt off. Why not use stitts tape?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | coolant pressure |
Todd wrote:
> However, the only time the coolant system will
>potentially develop 13 lbs or more is when you turn off an engine which
has
>been running hot and you turn it off. Now the stored residual temps form
>1100 degree exhasut temps and such build up and this is when you could
>potentially blow antifreeze by the o-rings. A new engine won't do this.
>The antifreeeze expands out the radiator cap.
But wait! I am seeing pressures to 18 psi today with almost cold engine.
Two different caps work the same (both rated at 13psi/0.9 bar). How can
the pressure exceed 13 psi? Are the caps temperature sensitive? Why dd
this not happen in the first 90 hours?
Todd, thanks for the info on the "no silicate" antifreeze. I will switch
to it soon. I am draining my system every few weeks these days to try one
thing or another to get this pressure thing under control.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyColt45(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Really Neat Wing Gap Seal |
For anyone's info, a guy by the name of Glenn Rinck (in FL) has a great
design for a wing gap seal. It's light but sturdy and see through. I've
seen others but his is framed very well. Comes off in seconds. I have one
on my MK III. I don't shill for him, but have been extremely satisfied with
his design. His e mail address is: grinck(at)rocketmail.com
Happy building,
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Powerfin Prop Spacer |
Gentlemen:
I have recently ordered a 72" three bladed Powerfin prop to replace a 72"
high pitched Ivo that wasn't compatible with the 3.47:1 E-box on my 582.
Powerfin recommends that I use a spacer, unfortunately Kolb doesn't sell one.
Is anyone out there with a Powerfin using a spacer? And if so where did
you get it?
Mark Sellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Really Neat Wing Gap Seal |
Jim,
Do you have any pics of the Wing gap seal???
Dennis
Original Firestar in Md.
----- Original Message -----
From: <FlyColt45(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 11:53 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Really Neat Wing Gap Seal
>
> For anyone's info, a guy by the name of Glenn Rinck (in FL) has a great
> design for a wing gap seal. It's light but sturdy and see through. I've
> seen others but his is framed very well. Comes off in seconds. I have
one
> on my MK III. I don't shill for him, but have been extremely satisfied
with
> his design. His e mail address is: grinck(at)rocketmail.com
> Happy building,
> Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brain Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Prop Spacer |
I am using an Ivo prop spacer on my warp drive and it has performed
flawlessly for
about 200 hours.
Kim Steiner
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 11:26 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Powerfin Prop Spacer
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> I have recently ordered a 72" three bladed Powerfin prop to replace a
72"
> high pitched Ivo that wasn't compatible with the 3.47:1 E-box on my 582.
> Powerfin recommends that I use a spacer, unfortunately Kolb doesn't sell
one.
> Is anyone out there with a Powerfin using a spacer? And if so where did
> you get it?
>
> Mark Sellers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRWillJR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: coolant pressure--wackos |
Rotax Service Centers (now there is a joke) are about clueless to these type
questions--you are better off asking us wackos. JR, just speculating
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Prop Spacer |
Why not use an Ivo spacer?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Gentlemen:
>
> I have recently ordered a 72" three bladed Powerfin prop to replace a 72"
>high pitched Ivo that wasn't compatible with the 3.47:1 E-box on my 582.
>Powerfin recommends that I use a spacer, unfortunately Kolb doesn't sell one.
> Is anyone out there with a Powerfin using a spacer? And if so where did
>you get it?
>
>Mark Sellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Really Neat Wing Gap Seal |
I have been a fan of Glenn Rinck's for ten years. He is a true master builder
of Kolbs, Tornadoes and other small planes. His total number of completion's
must now be in the thirties. He has a strip at his place in Grand Ridge FL
(~40 miles west of Tallahassee) and is always glad to see drop-ins. It's
humiliating to see what beautiful work he does with so few tools. One
caution, there is a major bump in the eastern end of the strip that will wipe
out your landing gear if you try to land from the East on the first part of
his runway. He had flags marking the clear-to-touch-down point. A low pass
before landing may be in order.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | coolant pressure, puzzle coming together |
Todd wrote:
>SO people are reading pressures of 18 lbs. at the radiator cap? How are
you
>measuring this? The device you are using allows for this measurement but
>the normal Rotax cap lets loose at 13/15 lbs. so what are worried about?
Yup, 18 lbs measured with a pretty good quality liquid-filled hard line
gauge (it agrees nicely with the old gauge I used to use). The measurement
point is tapped into the cooling system between the radiators. When the
system was new, it never went over 13 lbs. (15 if you count the "head"
seen by the mounting position of the gauge). Now, since 90 hours TT, it
reaches 18-19 lbs as the engine warms up, for the first 20 minutes. So
(here's a hint) the cap is not doing its job, even though it is functioning
"normally". The original cap and the new LEAF cap do the same thing. More
later, when theory is proven. Stay tuned.
WHAT AM I WORRIED ABOUT? It does not stop me from flying but it does make
me continue to explore fixes and ask questions of this group and others to
cure the problem before it manifests itself as blown RV shaft seals. Or
blown other stuff.
As for the suggestion to send it to the service center:
I did forwarded my questions to both Greensky and Leaf service centers,
bytheway. I am not too hopefull for even a response, let alone any value
in the answer. If they do respond, I will append their responses to the
Kolb List, for those interested.
My thanks again to Michael Highsmith for some very good logic and a theory
I will be checking this weekend. Thanks to Michael, I may have half the
answer I am (and the Rotax company is) looking for, and I believe the other
half came to us yesterday with the news of the non-silicate antifreeze.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | powerfin spacer request |
Mark wrote:
> I have recently ordered a 72" three bladed Powerfin prop to replace a
72"
>high pitched Ivo that wasn't compatible with the 3.47:1 E-box on my 582.
>Powerfin recommends that I use a spacer, unfortunately Kolb doesn't sell
one.
> Is anyone out there with a Powerfin using a spacer?
Mark, what part of the plane is too close to the prop, to make Powerfin ask
you to run a spacer? When I was mounting my own Powerfin 68" to the Rotax
with "C" box I noticed the flap control horns were only about 2.5" away and
called Powerfin. They said that was too close, marginally. I called Kolb
and Dennis suggested removing the flap control horns and remounting them in
a new position so they did not angle backwards, more like straight down.
He said they were recommending this on all the MKiiis with 912 engines.
When I did this, it was like 25-30 degrees, and that bought me another 1.5"
of clearance, I remember. I run no spacer. I did have to modify the
actuating tubes to make them shorter, but no big problem there.
If your clearance problem is the flap horns, call Kolb and ask.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Prop Spacer |
In a message dated 00-01-05 12:48:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rpike(at)preferred.com writes:
<< Why not use an Ivo spacer? >>
The Ivo spacer uses long bolts that go through the prop hub, through the
spacer and then into the hub on the Rotax re-drive. Stuart Gort at Powerfin
disapproves of this installation for reasons that I do not fully understand.
I suppose it could twist, especially with the 72" prop I was using.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: powerfin spacer request |
In a message dated 00-01-05 9:38:16 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gerken(at)us.ibm.com writes:
<< When I was mounting my own Powerfin 68" to the Rotax
with "C" box I noticed the flap control horns were only about 2.5" away and
called Powerfin. They said that was too close, marginally. >>
Jim:
I don't have my prop in hand just yet, so I can't say what my clearances
are for sure. 2.5" from the flap horns strokes me as marginal as well. But
the flap horns are quite a ways in board from the tips, which are my big
concern. If the prop was going to flex, and Powerfin assures me it will not
flex significantly, it would be most observable at the tips. My plan at the
moment is to put the prop on and see if it works. It looks satisfactory I
will spend the extra money for an extension.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Prop Spacer |
I had made my own prop spacer on 582 to warp prop, worked great. It has the
1.000" centering boss and emboss on the ends with clearance holes for prop
bolts. Mine was a 1.75 extension. I would be happy to fax a print of the
extension,
any good machine shop can turn this up.
John R.
-----Original Message-----
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Powerfin Prop Spacer
>
>In a message dated 00-01-05 12:48:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>rpike(at)preferred.com writes:
>
><< Why not use an Ivo spacer? >>
>
> The Ivo spacer uses long bolts that go through the prop hub, through
the
>spacer and then into the hub on the Rotax re-drive. Stuart Gort at
Powerfin
>disapproves of this installation for reasons that I do not fully
understand.
>I suppose it could twist, especially with the 72" prop I was using.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Discussion-supplier |
WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> If you can't find pennzoil locally check out this web page to buy PENNZOIL
> 2-CYCLE AIR-COOLED ENGINE OIL
> http://store.yahoo.com/oilstore/penaircool2c.html
>
Thanks for the good steer on locating Pennzoil 2 cycle
Air-cooled. seeing how nobody around here wants to stock it
or order it in I'm going to place an order with them.
Terry K. FF #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darren L Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 01/04/00 Coolant Pressure |
>>>>But wait! I am seeing pressures to 18 psi today with almost cold
engine.
Two different caps work the same (both rated at 13psi/0.9 bar). How
can
the pressure exceed 13 psi? Are the caps temperature sensitive? Why
dd
this not happen in the first 90 hours?<<<<
Jim<<<<
Jim/ list:
I have been following this thread, and wondered, Could a leaking
cylinder head gasket cause this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Kolb list:
To the person looking for the 5 gallon fuel tank caps and said you
couldn't get them from Kolb. Try again. I just order 4 of them and
they have them in stock. I'm going to do some experimenting on getting
a better way of getting gas into them. Rig up something to put the 11/2
inch inlet on.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork,Ar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyColt45(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Really Neat Wing Gap Seal |
Agreed, Glenn is a master builder and has designed other things like gas
tanks for Kolbs. I didn't want to toot his horn too much. I've been to his
shop a few times and was a joy to see him work.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Really Neat Wing Gap Seal |
Not only does he have a hump at the east end, he also has one at the west
end and both will wipe out your gear. Been there done that.
Low pass is definately in order with plenty of speed to correct, my mistake.
Glenn is in the process of building a 200 horsepower AirCam right now. He
will have a line waiting to be test ginnie pigs when he finishes that thing.
2700'/min. at 70 mph. wheeeeeuuuwww
Firehawk
>I have been a fan of Glenn Rinck's for ten years. He is a true master
>builder
>of Kolbs, Tornadoes and other small planes. His total number of
>completion's
>must now be in the thirties. He has a strip at his place in Grand Ridge FL
>(~40 miles west of Tallahassee) and is always glad to see drop-ins. It's
>humiliating to see what beautiful work he does with so few tools. One
>caution, there is a major bump in the eastern end of the strip that will
>wipe
>out your landing gear if you try to land from the East on the first part of
>his runway. He had flags marking the clear-to-touch-down point. A low pass
>before landing may be in order.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank caps. |
You might want to try the local plumbers supply or a good hardware store for
the rubber reducers for that size tak inlet. I found one at our local store
that fits perfectly over where the cap screws on the tank. The reduced end
fits over a 1 1/2" gas filler hose. You can use the gray PVC fitting in the
hose and a pvc cap that fits that, I use this setup for 3 years with out any
problems. Eventually though the rubber will dry out and crack like the carb
sockets.
Firehawk
I'm going to do some experimenting on getting
>a better way of getting gas into them. Rig up something to put the 11/2
>inch inlet on.
>Dallas Shepherd
>Norfork,Ar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Prop Spacer |
Properly torqued, it doesn't seem like twisting should be too much of a
problem. The builder of my re-drive expressed concern about gyroscopic
effects on the output shaft if using a prop extension. He wants to know
length of extension, and which prop, so he can do a stress analysis. It
gives me pause, cause the output shaft on that Aero-Kinetics re-drive is
massive; seems like it should stand anything. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 6:37 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Powerfin Prop Spacer
>
> In a message dated 00-01-05 12:48:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> rpike(at)preferred.com writes:
>
> << Why not use an Ivo spacer? >>
>
> The Ivo spacer uses long bolts that go through the prop hub, through
the
> spacer and then into the hub on the Rotax re-drive. Stuart Gort at
Powerfin
> disapproves of this installation for reasons that I do not fully
understand.
> I suppose it could twist, especially with the 72" prop I was using.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICKN106(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Really Neat Wing Gap Seal |
Mitch
Ihave been at Gleen house and you are right he is a good guy and a very good
builder of KOLBS
RICK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim T99" <townsend(at)webound.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: When to Cover |
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim T99
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 11:02 PM
Subject: When to Cover
Man I am getting close. When should I cover what??
I have every thing built but nothing mounted. Looks like I will need
to mount and rig all the tail feathers to get everything right and straight,
and the final riveting (except the attachment gussets) before I cover them.
My big question is, can I complete all hinge installation then remove the
pins and cover everything being careful around the hinges?
December 12, 1999 - January 05, 2000
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bv