Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-by
February 14, 2000 - March 06, 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICKN106(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing fold bracket tube |
LAR
On the wing brackets..... on my MIII I had Dennis make foe me 2 Z
brackets that were from top to bottom is 4in. high the top of the Z fits in
the tube that the wing bracket goes in and the other end goes in the wing
bracket, I drilled a hole in this Z thing that Dennis made and put a home
made pin in that I made out of a welding rod but this Z thing works better if
on the inboard rib you do this. Bend a 90 in a piece of 3/8 steel tubing
flatten the end on the 90 drill a hole in if so that a pin the sane size as
the pin that goes through the wing tang that holds the wing to the top of the
cage will go through it. Now remove the 3/8 long bolt that holds the boom
tube, make a tang and bend it in a L shape put this on the 3/8 long bolt put
it back through the boom tube with the L tang, now the other end on the 3/8
steel tube get your wings where you want them mark this steel tube cut and
flatten it out like the other end of this tube drill it out so a pin will go
through it and your wings WILL not move what the Z bracket dose is get the
bottom of the wing off the ground 4in. so you can get your KOLB in the
trailer with out scuffing the leading edge this works just think about a
Z bracket that is 4 in high what it will di for the leading edge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Henry <chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: in-flight mixture adjust |
Hi
I have used the in-flight mixture control on my 447 rotax for about 150
hours and think it is great. It does have a springy feel when adjusting,
twist about 1/2 turn then it moves, but you can adjust the EGT to within 50
degrees. Its nice to adjust during a flight for temperature change as well
as altitude. I mounted the control by the choke lever so I have to reach
over my left shoulder but that is not a problem.
Charles Henry Firestar I, 285 hrs, compression and visual ring check very good.
Wheel Skis are working great we have 6inches of new fluffy snow in south
east ND.
His claim in this is the in-flight mixture
>control that he developed for the Rotax carb. It consists of a brass
>screw, with a cable attached, that is soldered to the jet needle and
>screws into the bottom of the carb slide. By turning the screw via the
>cable, the jet needle moves up or down thereby adjusting the mixture. It
>seems like a very ingenious way to control the mixture from the cockpit
>and keep the engine running at its peak.
>Is there anyone in the group who has the Jacober mixture control on their
>carburetor and/or what have you experienced with the setup?
>Ralph
>Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Micah Froese" <mfroese(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Contemplating Kolb purchase |
Hello all,
I'm new to the board and would like to get some feedback form the group. I
am a Commercial pilot ASE, and have owned an ultralight before,(Advanced
Aviation Cobra). Currently I am contemplating buying a Kolb Mark III kit and
equipping it with a Rotax 912. The paln is to license it in the
Experimental category. As my only familiarity with Kolbs are what I have
garnered from seeing them at Sun-n-Fun and the sales brochures, some help
from you folks would be greatly appreciated. Any advice at all is helpful.
Engine advice, options advice, general things to look out for, to quick
build or not to quick build, and anything else you can come up with.
Thanks in advance,
Micah Froese
(803) 755-7845
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and balance |
>
Bill,
There is a way to do weight and balance without estimating "p". You do the
plane
empty and the do it again with you sitting in the seat. Then you weight yourself.
Then
you will be able to solve for "p", mathimatically. I did this on my Firestar II
and it
came out within 0.1" of the "belly-button" method. If you of anyone else on the
list, is
interested in an EXCEL program that does weight and balance for Kolbs, I have one
that I
wrote. It has you weigh the plane with the pilot in and out and does not need to
know
where the seats are. Then it will tell you the minimum and maximun pilot weights
to stay
within the cg limits. The program is currently set up for Firestars, but I would
be
willing to add Mark III's, if someone would provide me the data from their plans.
If anyone wonders why I have such an interest in weight and balance, it's
because it
used to be my job, during Vietnam. I was a loadmaster on C141's. My job was to
decide
where to put the cargo to keep the plane within cg limits, and then provide cg
information to the pilot, so that he could trim the plane for takeoff.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Firestar.html
Wisconsin
> _____________________
> From: Bil Ragsdale <bilrags(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Weight and balance
>
>
> Did the weight and balance today. My weight and balance calculations
> come up with an empty weight of 488 pounds. I can't figure how to
> measure the pilots cg from the datum sitting in the seat. It is only
> listed in the Kolb manual as the distance "p". Everything else is
> straight forward and like any other airship I've ever weighed. Anybody
> got any ideas for the distance "p"?
>
> Cranked the engine up for the first time today. The EIS is not
> calibrated correctly for RPM and I got no indication of EGT or CHT. I
> was afraid to pull any power with it without temps showing. That Hirth
> sure sounds good though. Thought sure I'd be ready to fly today,
> but....... Always new problems to overcome. Maybe next weekend.
>
> Bil Kolb Mk III sn 213 The millennium bug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Contemplating Kolb purchase |
Get the ribs pre built. I thought it was an easy airplane to build, most of
the time was spent plumbing, wiring, and covering/painting.
Built the airplane ready to cover in 3 months, that was the quick part.
(The last 10% of the job takes 90% of the time!)
It is an excellent airplane, but is almost impossible to get to fly hands off.
I really like mine, and cannot think of any other low and slow airplane
that I would be happier with.
Lots of stuff in the archives about how to ice the cake, and make a good
airplane even better.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>
>Hello all,
>
>I'm new to the board and would like to get some feedback form the group. I
>am a Commercial pilot ASE, and have owned an ultralight before,(Advanced
>Aviation Cobra). Currently I am contemplating buying a Kolb Mark III kit and
>equipping it with a Rotax 912. The paln is to license it in the
>Experimental category. As my only familiarity with Kolbs are what I have
>garnered from seeing them at Sun-n-Fun and the sales brochures, some help
>from you folks would be greatly appreciated. Any advice at all is helpful.
>Engine advice, options advice, general things to look out for, to quick
>build or not to quick build, and anything else you can come up with.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Micah Froese
>
>(803) 755-7845
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Charles" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
How about $30 for the whole shootin match of tail wheels and brackets?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Charles" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
Dennis, thanks for the reply. If they have built the new legs as you have
described them then I understand the costs as applied. I guess we all
thought they'd be a replacement to the aluminum legs and would bolt up the
same. When I called Kolb any regarding the new steel legs they didn't have
anyone to explain the set up and didn't have any info sheets to fax or email
me about the probduct hense my assumption - poor excuse but a reasonable
outcome. Even when I reacted to the quoted price nobody there tried to
correct my thinking by explaining the product differences.
Maybe now - two weeks later- they have a better handle on the marketing/info
side of the product.
thanks again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and balance |
I am interested for the firestar and the Mark 3.
I realize u only have firestar at present time (Data)
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Contemplating Kolb purchase |
I've been in touch with TNK recently, getting prices on pieces I need
to rebuild my FS. I asked for prices on rib flanges and Sue said they
have not been selling rib pieces separately. I think that is the same
thing as saying pre-built ribs are standard now. She said, however,
that she would ask about selling me the pieces anyway. This is good in
my case because a) i have several ribs where only a couple pieces need
replacement, and b) I have a slight preference to build all the ribs on
the same jig I used in the first place.
Micah, in contemplating quick-build vs "you-build", Richard makes a
good point, i.e., in homebuilding, the systems part (after the
structure is done) is at least half the battle. But on a simple plane
with only a few instruments, it is not nearly so bad. For the
shortest, least hassle build, stick to a standard plans built plane as
much as possible. Some variations may sound good, but I think it is
best to leave those for later, if ever. A huge part of the value in a
kit is that everything is laid out in front of you and you just have to
more or less connect the dots. And if you want to hear about great
"new" ideas in a Kolb, go back and read some of the early magazine
reviews that came out when the FS or Mk III were introduced. That will
remind you that they basically didn't leave much room for improvement.
- Ben Ransom
--- Richard Pike wrote:
>
> Get the ribs pre built. I thought it was an easy airplane to build,
> most of
> the time was spent plumbing, wiring, and covering/painting.
> Built the airplane ready to cover in 3 months, that was the quick
> part.
> (The last 10% of the job takes 90% of the time!)
> It is an excellent airplane, but is almost impossible to get to fly
> hands off.
> I really like mine, and cannot think of any other low and slow
> airplane
> that I would be happier with.
> Lots of stuff in the archives about how to ice the cake, and make a
> good
> airplane even better.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >Hello all,
> >
> >I'm new to the board and would like to get some feedback form the
> group. I
> >am a Commercial pilot ASE, and have owned an ultralight
> before,(Advanced
> >Aviation Cobra). Currently I am contemplating buying a Kolb Mark III
> kit and
> >equipping it with a Rotax 912. The paln is to license it in the
> >Experimental category. As my only familiarity with Kolbs are what I
> have
> >garnered from seeing them at Sun-n-Fun and the sales brochures, some
> help
> >from you folks would be greatly appreciated. Any advice at all is
> helpful.
> >Engine advice, options advice, general things to look out for, to
> quick
> >build or not to quick build, and anything else you can come up with.
> >
> >Thanks in advance,
> >
> >Micah Froese
> >
> >(803) 755-7845
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <quick503(at)aisp.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail whells M3 |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2000 8:18 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Tail whells M3
>
> I an always use a spare one--how much-how do I get you the money-and how
are
> you going to ship?
>
> Lindy
> La-Lower Alabama
>
Hey Lindy,
Someone just barely got there before you but if he changes his mind I'll let
you know. You never did answer my e-mail. I've got the MK III that is one sn
from yours.
Cheers, Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Charles" <todd.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
| Subject: | Contemplating Kolb purchase |
Mr. Baker is correct about the powder coating and you should know that this
is a VERY durable coating in addition to the time savings it provides over
painting by hand.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keeboman2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Contemplating Kolb purchase |
Ben that is correct, the ribs are prebuilt at no additional charge other than
the kit price increase that i believe has happened.
Keebo
Dallas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail whells M3 |
I sent you a long reply. You suprised me when you said you knew Danny Day
etc.
I just deleted my sent files yesterday-the weather was so bad here I had
plenty of time on my hands this weekend..Have about 385 messages to read,I
always reply to people who send me E-mail. Sorry about the cyber space
error-Let me know if you get this one--the last time I wrote your address
down and send reply-this time I punched in your address on your E-mail
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
Mark 3 # 043
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce E Harrison <bharrison(at)juno.com> |
Howard Shackleford, Jeff Yonce, and the rest of the Edgefield, SC gang:
Do any of you know of any shops in the area that could handle
powdercoating the steel parts from a FS Kit? I would like to do all
drilling, fitting, etc. of H-sections and other parts before they are
coated--then have the parts coated right before final installation.
Bruce Harrison
Lexington, SC (Looking at building a hangar at Gaston UL field)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Powdercoating |
In a message dated 2/14/00 7:56:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bharrison(at)juno.com writes:
<< Do any of you know of any shops in the area that could handle
powdercoating the steel parts from a FS Kit? I would like to do all >>
Bruce, don/t know of any. Mine was painted when I got it, so was Jeff's &
David's.
Bill had his done at the factory. I like your idea, though. When you coming
to Trenton? Next Sat. probably a good time[weather permitting].
Shack
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: My absence and ice flying. |
In a message dated 2/13/00 11:04:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
swidersk(at)digital.net writes:
<< ..Richard Swiderski, 352-622-4064 >>
thanks for the Invite Richard.....I won't be down there for another year now
but come next January....I'll send you an E-mail......... GeoR38
KX
447
'92
yel, bluish purple, and pink? yyyeghh! but that's it!!!
By George!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Powdercoating |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Bruce,
Let your fingers do the walking and check with the motor cycle and any
auto speed shops around. That is how I found one in Gainesville, FL.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
writes:
>
>
> Howard Shackleford, Jeff Yonce, and the rest of the Edgefield, SC
> gang:
>
> Do any of you know of any shops in the area that could handle
> powdercoating the steel parts from a FS Kit? I would like to do all
> drilling, fitting, etc. of H-sections and other parts before they
> are
> coated--then have the parts coated right before final installation.
>
> Bruce Harrison
> Lexington, SC (Looking at building a hangar at Gaston UL field)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/13/00 |
lar wrote
Just a little food for thought..............I've had a 3 in
1 bender for
years,
i found a 3 in 1 tubeing bender at harbor frieght for about
$6.00 it was not built for everyday all day use but has
done a real good job on the mk III
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UL:Hirth 2703 Engine |
Have chance to buy 2703 new but no gearbox. Is this engine pretty much a
changeout for a Rotax 503 DCDI? Anything I should know?
Howard Shackleford
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Wing Fold Tube / Holder |
I purchased a 1/4" 19"x84" sheet of aluminum. Bent it over the fuselage
boom and up and around the wings. I used 1"high density foam to pad the
boom tube and the leading edge of the wing. I have a 2 wheel- outrigger-
boom- holder that holds the tailwheel and the wings off the ground for
transport and the aluminum saddle is bolted to that. The wing holders
are longer to keep the strap away from the wing fabric. 2 small pieces of
foam keep the strap away from the trailing edge. The aluminum cost
$44.00, the foam was $7.00 and the bolt and wing nut $3.45. The
replacement tube is $20.00. The fuselage tube was really damaged --the
hjole os elongated and ther are 2 cracks fromthe tube hole to the rivet
holes--I would not fell comfortable installing the folding wing tube again.
Thanks for the good ideas. Dale Seitzer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 00-02-09 7:25:49 AM Eastern Standard Time, brunerd(at)hvi.net
writes:
<< On
the other hand, I'm now based on a paved runway so I need something tougher
than wheelbarrow tires. >>
Dave:
How are you? The Pa dept of motor vehicles has just rejected my
application to register my trailer for the second time. What can I say other
than "Welcome to aviation"?
Are you getting any flying time in? I have the new Powerfin on my plane
but haven't run it yet. Doing lots of off season fiddling.
Mark Sellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Back Issues of 'Experimenter' |
Does anyone have any back issues of the EAA 'Experimenter' you'd like to
pass on? I'm happy to pay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Internet Explorer and List Subscription Page Problem... |
Listers,
I have just identified a problem between any version of Microsoft's
Internet Explorer and the email List Subscription Form found at
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Please note that this problem
*ONLY* affects users of Internet Explorer! Netscape users are
*not* affected by the issue. Users of Internet Explorer should
use the Netscape browser for now until a work around can be
developed.
IMPORTANT:
If you have tried to subscribe *or* unsubscribe from any of the
following email lists using *Internet Explorer* since the announcement of
the 7 new Email Lists this past weekend, your request was not properly
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Please note that the Netscape Browser *IS NOT* affected by this problem
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I will post a message to the Lists when I have come up with a solution
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Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lawrence Dorn" <ldorn(at)sinclair.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UL:Hirth 2703 Engine |
Yes it a change out, but i would call Matt at rec power and make sure its
one of the newer models. the older ones had some problem but are
correctable. Matt can help you determine if it an old one or not. He's gone
on a trip this week though.
www.recpower.com
Lawrence Dorn
Silverdale,Wa
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 2218
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: UL:Hirth 2703 Engine
>
> Have chance to buy 2703 new but no gearbox. Is this engine pretty much a
> changeout for a Rotax 503 DCDI? Anything I should know?
>
> Howard Shackleford
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UL:Hirth 2703 Engine |
>
>Have chance to buy 2703 new but no gearbox. Is this engine pretty much a
>changeout for a Rotax 503 DCDI? Anything I should know?
>
I like mine. You will have to drill the aluminum mounting plates out to a
different hole pattern. Other than that there should be no problem. Mine has
a belt drive and I have had no problem with it.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb Sling Shot For Sale |
Good Evening Kolbers:
One of my flying buddies, here in the local area, Ronnie
Collins, asked me to post a message to the Kolb List.
He has decided to sell his relatively new Kolb Sling Shot,
powered by a Rotax 582, pushed by a 3-blade Warp Drive
prop. The SS is yellow, good looking airplane, upholstered,
and flies well. I have test flown Ronnie's SS which flies
as good or better than the old Kolb factory SS.
If you are interested in Ronnie's SS, give him a call at:
1-334-567-9276. He is anxious to sell. The aircraft is
located at Wetumpka Airport (08A), Alabama.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Measurement help: Firestar KXP |
Howdy gang,
If any of you have access to a Firestar KX or KXP, I need some help
with just a couple of measurements. The most important measurement I
need, is the vertical distance from the top of the 5" steel ring that
holds the front end of the fuselage, to the top of the main spar carry
thru tube (3/4" square tube that the main wing spars clevis pin to).
There are a couple other dimensions that might be helpful, but I'm
asking for this one because it is probably easy to measure (no fabric
to measure thru, etc), and will do me the most good. If you think you
can get me that measurement, please email me direct. I will be most
appreciative. Remember, this is for a KX/KXP, not a I, II, original,
or crispy. :)
I have had a tough time figuring out cage repair. I'll spare you all
my thoughts and quandries ...i'm just not good at this part. The good
news is that I believe I am starting to understand what needs to be
done, and to a large extent, how to do it.
-Ben Ransom
For those who might not have seen the cause of this, it is at: http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/jun99/spring99g.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Internet Explorer and List Subscription Page Problem..." (Feb 15, 10:19am)
| Subject: | Re: Web Subscription Page Operation for Internet Explorer Restored... |
Dear Listers,
I have rewritten the web page and CGI code for processing List
Subscription Requests to now be more compatible with command line
limitations of Microsoft's Internet Explorer and some very
old versions of Netscape. The page seems to be working fine
now on whatever browser I try. Please feel free to resume
your normal List Subscription habits.
The URL is: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
>--------------
>
>
>Listers,
>
>I have just identified a problem between any version of Microsoft's
>Internet Explorer and the email List Subscription Form found at
>http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Please note that this problem
>*ONLY* affects users of Internet Explorer! Netscape users are
>*not* affected by the issue. Users of Internet Explorer should
>use the Netscape browser for now until a work around can be
>developed.
>
>IMPORTANT:
>
>If you have tried to subscribe *or* unsubscribe from any of the
>following email lists using *Internet Explorer* since the announcement of
>the 7 new Email Lists this past weekend, your request was not properly
>received and you should resubmit the request using the Netscape
>Browser, or wait until a solution for the problem with Internet Explorer
>is completed. The Lists affected by the Internet Explorer issue are:
>
> RVCanada-List
> RVEurope-List
> Sailplane-List
> Seaplane-List
> Skymaster-List
> SmithMini-List
> Sonerai-List
> Tailwind-List
> Ultralight-List
> Warbird-List
> Yak-List
> Zenith-List
>
>
>Please note that the Netscape Browser *IS NOT* affected by this problem
>and all lists can be subscribed to and unsubscribed from without a
>problem.
>
>I will post a message to the Lists when I have come up with a solution
>to this problem.
>
>Sorry for the inconvenience,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Admin.
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Sling Shot For Sale |
> Did Ronnie have the Slingshot at the Kolb fly in back in the fall?
>
> Bill
Bill:
If we are talking about Ronnie Smith's, South Mississippi Lt
Aircraft,Lucedale, yes.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Boom tube installation |
I got a question. Last night my father and I temporarily installed the boom
tube to locate the H-section holes. I checked the squareness of the boom
tube like the manual said but when I slide the tube in the ring there was
about a 1/4" of ring showing on the bottom (looking from in front of the
cage down on the ring) and the tube was "bottomed out" on the top of the
ring. My guess is that the ring warped a little during welding and is not
perpendicular to the centerline coming through the back H-section mount
holes. It was off about 5 degrees by my figuring. I pulled the tube out
and trimmed the front end of the boom tube at a taper (measured back the
1/4" on the top and drew a line around the tube and cut) to get the tube to
sink all the way into the ring all the way around. It worked except for a
area between about 4 o'clock and 6 o'clock that has about 1/16 of ring still
showing. My question is this , is this ring being a few degrees off of
perpendicular a big deal and did I do the right thing by cutting the taper
on the tube to get it in more. I figured the critical thing was going to be
edge distance for the bolts going through the aluminum tube so I wanted more
"meat" past the holes. At the part that is still showing steel ring I have
about 5/16 or so , is this enough edge distance? I can't imagine enough
pull on the tail to pull the H-section out even without the 6 - 3/16" bolts
being there.
Dennis Souder care to comment? I'd appreciate any input on this
one...Thanks
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
web page:
http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/home.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
What the heck, I'll cc you Kolbers too... -Mike
It's fun to watch the crop dusters here. One came in as I arrived this
a.m. and had to hold off while a twin Otter (I think) did it's long
approach. The duster got it's flaps down and still did a slightly smaller
than std. pattern, but hung out at about 400' clear until the end of the
runway (waiting for the Otter to get it's butt off the runway). Then it
pulled full flaps and dove, maybe in a slip too.
Those guys don't mess around, and you can tell that everything they do is
designed to minimize turnaround time. After takeoff, they never climb
higher than about 200' (takes time!). I've also seen them turn onto the
runway at the first turnout, rather than the end of the runway, to save on
taxi time. On landing, they typicallly have a *very* small pattern at
about 400' AGL. The guy this morning was, I'm sure, leaving options open
for a quicker go around, should the Otter turn out to be slower than
expected. There was another one earlier this a.m. (seen from home) flying
a more typical pattern, but doing probably well over 100mph. Their
landings, no matter which one of the highly varied approaches I seen, are
always greasers at exactly the intended touchdown points. Those guys are
right up there with glider pilots in my admiration and envy. You gotta
remember too, that this is all done in an aircraft that is essentially a
flying 1 ton poison tank. (Kinda like the quip that Ginger Rogers did
everything Fred Astair did, only in high heels and backwards!) :)
Okay, back to work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Powdercoating |
| From: | Bruce E Harrison <bharrison(at)juno.com> |
I'd love to come, but I can't do it this weekend. I'll be in Charlotte
for my parents' birthdays. I'll be watching for my chance, however. How
about organizing a mass flight down to Gaston/Lexington, the small UL
field just outside of Gaston? It'd be a 40 minute jaunt or so for you. If
you do it let me know and I'll meet you there.
>
> In a message dated 2/14/00 7:56:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> bharrison(at)juno.com writes:
>
> << Do any of you know of any shops in the area that could handle
> powdercoating the steel parts from a FS Kit? I would like to do all
> >>
> Bruce, don/t know of any. Mine was painted when I got it, so was
> Jeff's &
> David's.
> Bill had his done at the factory. I like your idea, though. When
> you coming
> to Trenton? Next Sat. probably a good time[weather permitting].
>
> Shack
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
On the way back from Glamis, CA sand dunes last weekend, we stopped near
Calipatria to watch 2 planes and a helicopter doing their thing. You're
right - it's really impressive to watch these guys. They had to do
everything you're saying, and know where each other was as well. This ole
boy will stay well clear thanks. Big Lar. Do not
Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 9:51 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: dusters
>
> What the heck, I'll cc you Kolbers too... -Mike
>
> It's fun to watch the crop dusters here. One came in as I arrived this
> a.m. and had to hold off while a twin Otter (I think) did it's long
> approach. The duster got it's flaps down and still did a slightly smaller
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Powdercoating |
I had a powdercoater in Akron Ohio do all my steel and the aluminum tail boom
tube as well for a FS2. Got to pick my color too.G. Aman FS1274 35hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zanzoterra Engine |
Topher asked about the Zanzoterra 2-stroke engine.
Here's what I have learned about it.
Made in Spain, it's essentially an exact copy of the Hirth-2706 engine.
If you compare all the specs (bore, stroke, displ.) you'll see what I
mean. The engine even LOOKS identical to the Hirth. Zanzoterra bought
a large quantity of old Hirth engines (mostly cases & cranks) some time
ago that Hirth had discontinued after they upgraded to the newer-design
of their 2700-series engines. Hirth upgraded because the newer engines
are improved over their old design (makes sense). So what you're
getting from Zanzoterra is an old-design, leftover Hirth core. But they
are cheaper than a new Hirth. I do not have any performance or
reliability figures, but I wouldn't feel comfortable flying with another
company's discarded engines. You be the judge.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, s/n 300
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark-III Power Plants |
To Jim B in Viginia Beach and fellow Kolbers,
I, too, have heard good things about the Geo Metro engine. (It's
actually a Suzuki engine.) It was one engine I was contemplating using
for my yet-to-be-finished Mark-III, as I also am leaning toward 4-stroke
engine.
Presently, I am looking seriously at the Verner-1400 2-cyl air cooled 80
hp engine made in the Czech Republic. Advertises to be the same weight
& power as the Rotax-912, but at half the complexity. US distributor is
Steve Flynn, of Central Florida Flyers in Coleman, Florida (about 40 mi
NW of Orlando). He has this engine on a Mark-III and reports that it is
a great combination. He had the same engine on a Dragonfly (looks like
a Drifter) that he used for towing hang gliders for a couple hundred
hours, and the engine has performed flawlessly so far. That seems like
a good test to me - that engine was really working!
Does anybody on the list know of any other airplanes using the Verner
motor and those owners' experiences? I've learned that there are only
about 150 of these engines produced and in use so far, mostly in Europe,
but that production has really taking off recently as its popularity
grows. (The engine is JAR-certified in Europe.) I'd like to know all I
can before committing to the purchase of one of these (about $7500, all
up).
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, s/n 300, about 78 percent finished in
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Bruner <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
>
>In a message dated 00-02-09 7:25:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,
brunerd(at)hvi.net
>writes:
>
><< On
> the other hand, I'm now based on a paved runway so I need something tougher
> than wheelbarrow tires. >>
>
>Dave:
>
> How are you? The Pa dept of motor vehicles has just rejected my
>application to register my trailer for the second time. What can I say
other
>than "Welcome to aviation"?
Well, at least your not under any pressure from me or a need to move your
Mk III or are you?
> Are you getting any flying time in? I have the new Powerfin on my plane
>but haven't run it yet. Doing lots of off season fiddling.
Nope, not in this weather. The guys in the Chapter helped me reinforce the
inboard end
of the struts - welded some chromolly spacers - because the pin holes had
elongated a bit.
There's also a good chance that I've found a buyer. We'll see.
There's quite a bit of skepticism here about Ivo props, because of problems
like you had and
an opinion that they're too liable to throw a blade. How did you select
the Powerfin? I'm still
not real happy with the 3 blade GSC I've got. Seems too heavy and doesn't
seem to overcome
the lack of performance that Jim noticed on my Mk II. Think I should go
with a 2-blade of some
kind. Any opinions?
Good weather won't be too much longer!
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Hundley" <rhundley(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Lock nuts and matco brakes |
I just started bolting stuff to my fuselage. I noticed that the nylon lock
nuts stripe out very easily with very little torque. Should I be using
Lock-Tite on every bolt since I'm not getting the torque I want? Is it
normal for the hardware to stripe so easily?
Also, should the brake lines enter the caliber from the rear or the front(it
depends on which wheel assembly you put on what side of the plane)? Does
anyone have any pictures of their brake line install. Where does the small
vertical loop go and how small is small? Thanks.
Rick Hundley
MK III N350RH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: Lock nuts and matco brakes |
Rick Hundley wrote:
> I just started bolting stuff to my fuselage. I noticed that the nylon lock
> nuts stripe out very easily with very little torque. Should I be using
> Lock-Tite on every bolt since I'm not getting the torque I want? Is it
> normal for the hardware to stripe so easily?
Not sure what you mean by "...stripe out...". Do you mean that they
turn onto the bolts very easily" If you are using AN 365-x nylock nuts
you should NOT be able to turn the nut onto the bolt by hand, even after
putting it on and off several times with a wrench. Not sure about
"hardware store nylon lock nuts" since I never use them. Is it the
metal, or the nylon insert that is "striping out" ? If it is the metal
there is something drastically wrong.
Are you saying that you are tightening with a torque wrench but the nut
fails before you reach the desired torque? If this is the case is it
possibible that the specs were given in inch-lbs but you are using a
foot-lb torque wrench? If this is the case either the nut or the bolt
would almost certainly fail.
In any case there should be no need to use LocTite with nylock nuts.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
> Rick Hundley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Boom tube installation |
Jeremy,
Had the same experience on mine last spring...did the same thing you did -
wanted to make sure the edge distance was right for all of the bolts going
through the boom tube. Took some time to get the fit even, but am happy with
the outcome.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 11:11 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Boom tube installation
>
>I got a question. Last night my father and I temporarily installed the
boom
>tube to locate the H-section holes. I checked the squareness of the boom
>tube like the manual said but when I slide the tube in the ring there was
>about a 1/4" of ring showing on the bottom (looking from in front of the
>cage down on the ring) and the tube was "bottomed out" on the top of the
>ring. My guess is that the ring warped a little during welding and is not
>perpendicular to the centerline coming through the back H-section mount
>holes. It was off about 5 degrees by my figuring. I pulled the tube out
>and trimmed the front end of the boom tube at a taper (measured back the
>1/4" on the top and drew a line around the tube and cut) to get the tube to
>sink all the way into the ring all the way around. It worked except for a
>area between about 4 o'clock and 6 o'clock that has about 1/16 of ring
still
>showing. My question is this , is this ring being a few degrees off of
>perpendicular a big deal and did I do the right thing by cutting the taper
>on the tube to get it in more. I figured the critical thing was going to
be
>edge distance for the bolts going through the aluminum tube so I wanted
more
>"meat" past the holes. At the part that is still showing steel ring I have
>about 5/16 or so , is this enough edge distance? I can't imagine enough
>pull on the tail to pull the H-section out even without the 6 - 3/16" bolts
>being there.
>Dennis Souder care to comment? I'd appreciate any input on this
>one...Thanks
>
>Jeremy Casey
>jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
>web page:
>
>http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/home.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net> |
Hello Fellow Kolbers,
I am in dire need of a couple of parts for my MKIII so I can start the
engine for the first time. Called "TNK" the other day and talked to this
wonderful lady named Sue. She had me straightened out in no time and the
parts are in the mail.
She told me that the location of "TNK" is in a dry county (can't even
imagine) and if I ever made it there to bring her a Coors Light. I don't
think I'll be there any time soon, but I know allot of you guys on the
list will be so maybe you could help her out.
Thanks so much for your help Sue, Your a sweet heart :)
PaulV
p.s. If Sue's boss reads this she deserves a pay raise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 00-02-17 6:46:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, brunerd(at)hvi.net
writes:
<< There's quite a bit of skepticism here about Ivo props, because of problems
like you had and
an opinion that they're too liable to throw a blade. How did you select
the Powerfin? I'm still
not real happy with the 3 blade GSC I've got. Seems too heavy and doesn't
seem to overcome
the lack of performance that Jim noticed on my Mk II. Think I should go
with a 2-blade of some
kind. Any opinions? >>
Well, opinions are cheap, here's mine: my sense is that the IVo is very
good in the shorter lengths and at 2.68:1 on the box. In the longer lengths
and at the higher reductions the flexibility of the prop begins to cause real
problems.
I went with the Powerfin because its stiffer and doesn't cost as much as
the warp. I'm going to do a product review for the list soon after I get a
little more experience with it.
I suspect your performance problems arise from your engine, not your
prop. You have the single plug heads and a single carb together with a home
made ignition system. Obviously I have no idea what kind of horsepower it is
producing but it seems fair to suspect it is quite a bit less than the stock
503 DCCDI that most folks use as a benchmark. Remember, the book horsepower
for a 503 DCCDI is 52, while the book horsepower for a single carb single
ignition 503 is 47-48. That is a difference of ten percent right there.
You've heard my rant on this before, but by introducing a non-stock
ignition system into the mix you have backed yourself into a corner where no
one is likely to be able to authoritatively diagnose your problems because
your ignition is a one off thing. You have been on the list long enough to
know that diagnosing problems on a straight stock Rotax can be maddening.
Even on the engines that the world has a lot of experience with like the 582
quirky problems arise. Throw in a non-stock system in and you are likely to
scratch furrows in your head.
One of the funny things about aviation is that all problems are soluble
in money. Good luck.
MRS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Mark-III Power Plants |
I have seen the Verner on one airplane. The pilot was giving rides that
day in 100 degree heat. The plane was the most impressive of all the 2
place birds that day. This was at Perris Ca about a year ago. The Czechs
know how to build engines. In the model airplane arena ask someone about
MVVS. None more powerful. Was even true when the communists ruled.
Thanks
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
"Kolb-List Digest Server"
| Subject: | Re: Lock nuts and matco brakes |
You are probably over tightening everything. For example an AN-4 which is a
1/4" bolt has a range of only 50 to 70 INCH pounds or 4 to 6 Foot pounds.
AN-3 which is 3/16" is much less being only 20-25 INCH pounds or about 2
foot pounds. If you are using a thin shear nut AN-320 it drops about in
half. It is not that the nuts are easy to shear, you are just exceeding the
design limits.
Get a copy of AC 43-13-1B Section 7 explains everything that you need to
know about bolts.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Hundley <rhundley(at)erols.com>
Date: Thursday, February 17, 2000 6:41 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Lock nuts and matco brakes
>
>I just started bolting stuff to my fuselage. I noticed that the nylon lock
>nuts stripe out very easily with very little torque. Should I be using
>Lock-Tite on every bolt since I'm not getting the torque I want? Is it
>normal for the hardware to stripe so easily?
>
>Also, should the brake lines enter the caliber from the rear or the
front(it
>depends on which wheel assembly you put on what side of the plane)? Does
>anyone have any pictures of their brake line install. Where does the small
>vertical loop go and how small is small? Thanks.
>
>Rick Hundley
>MK III N350RH
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ballenger" <ballenger(at)gateway.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark-III Power Plants |
Dennis,
Thanks for the info. Sounds interesting. If you get one , I would really
be interested in your evaluation. By the way I was born and raised in New
Mexico.
Thanks
Jim
Virginia Beach
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis & Diane Kirby" <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 11:40 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Mark-III Power Plants
>
> To Jim B in Viginia Beach and fellow Kolbers,
> I, too, have heard good things about the Geo Metro engine. (It's
> actually a Suzuki engine.) It was one engine I was contemplating using
> for my yet-to-be-finished Mark-III, as I also am leaning toward 4-stroke
> engine.
> Presently, I am looking seriously at the Verner-1400 2-cyl air cooled 80
> hp engine made in the Czech Republic. Advertises to be the same weight
> & power as the Rotax-912, but at half the complexity. US distributor is
> Steve Flynn, of Central Florida Flyers in Coleman, Florida (about 40 mi
> NW of Orlando). He has this engine on a Mark-III and reports that it is
> a great combination. He had the same engine on a Dragonfly (looks like
> a Drifter) that he used for towing hang gliders for a couple hundred
> hours, and the engine has performed flawlessly so far. That seems like
> a good test to me - that engine was really working!
> Does anybody on the list know of any other airplanes using the Verner
> motor and those owners' experiences? I've learned that there are only
> about 150 of these engines produced and in use so far, mostly in Europe,
> but that production has really taking off recently as its popularity
> grows. (The engine is JAR-certified in Europe.) I'd like to know all I
> can before committing to the purchase of one of these (about $7500, all
> up).
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-III, s/n 300, about 78 percent finished in
> Cedar Crest, New Mexico
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Conversion |
Cavuontop/MRS:
For your info: The ignition system installed by Arizonz Ultralights in
David's & 100's of 1000's other 2-stroke engines is not a "one of a kind"
system. Nipendenso (not sure of spelling) makes it & Rotax/Bombardier, Cuyuna,
2SI, & Kawasaki are but few of the major companies using it. It is in fact
superior to what Rotax is using in their aviation motors because the stock Ducati
system does not have a timing curve built in to it like the Nipendenso does. That
is why stock Rotax engines idle so rough (watch them shake & listen to them
rattle) & are harder to start. That is because they always are running with full
spark advance. Most (99%) of all modern engines, both 2 & 4 stroke retard the
ignition at lower rpm's so they are easier to start & idle smoother. Why Rotax
uses an inferior setup on their aviation engines has never been explained. Rotax
uses Nipendenso on their 503/582 versions of water sport engines for example.
I
can only surmise that they don't use it on aviation engines for the same reason
Micuni (Spelling?) carburators are no longer sold as "stock" carburators on
aviation engines, & many claim they are superior to Bing as well. The reason is
liability & litigation. People are paying Arizona Ultralights to change out
their ignition systems that are still working as good as new because they don't
like the way their engines shake at idle & they prefer to have an engine that
starts easiser. I am not con.nected with Arizonz Ultralights, nor have I done
business with them, but I have changed my ignition from Ducati to Nipendenso &
my
carbs from Bing to Micuni and have seen an increase in performance in both cases.
...Richard Swiderski
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 00-02-17 6:46:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, brunerd(at)hvi.net
> writes:
>
> << There's quite a bit of skepticism here about Ivo props, because of problems
> like you had and
> an opinion that they're too liable to throw a blade. How did you select
> the Powerfin? I'm still
> not real happy with the 3 blade GSC I've got. Seems too heavy and doesn't
> seem to overcome
> the lack of performance that Jim noticed on my Mk II. Think I should go
> with a 2-blade of some
> kind. Any opinions? >>
>
> Well, opinions are cheap, here's mine: my sense is that the IVo is very
> good in the shorter lengths and at 2.68:1 on the box. In the longer lengths
> and at the higher reductions the flexibility of the prop begins to cause real
> problems.
>
> I went with the Powerfin because its stiffer and doesn't cost as much as
> the warp. I'm going to do a product review for the list soon after I get a
> little more experience with it.
>
> I suspect your performance problems arise from your engine, not your
> prop. You have the single plug heads and a single carb together with a home
> made ignition system. Obviously I have no idea what kind of horsepower it is
> producing but it seems fair to suspect it is quite a bit less than the stock
> 503 DCCDI that most folks use as a benchmark. Remember, the book horsepower
> for a 503 DCCDI is 52, while the book horsepower for a single carb single
> ignition 503 is 47-48. That is a difference of ten percent right there.
>
> You've heard my rant on this before, but by introducing a non-stock
> ignition system into the mix you have backed yourself into a corner where no
> one is likely to be able to authoritatively diagnose your problems because
> your ignition is a one off thing. You have been on the list long enough to
> know that diagnosing problems on a straight stock Rotax can be maddening.
> Even on the engines that the world has a lot of experience with like the 582
> quirky problems arise. Throw in a non-stock system in and you are likely to
> scratch furrows in your head.
>
> One of the funny things about aviation is that all problems are soluble
> in money. Good luck.
>
> MRS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Boom tube installation |
> I got a question. Last night my father and I temporarily installed the
boom
> tube to locate the H-section holes. I checked the squareness of the boom
> tube like the manual said but when I slide the tube in the ring there was
> about a 1/4" of ring showing on the bottom (looking from in front of the
> cage down on the ring) and the tube was "bottomed out" on the top of the
> ring. My guess is that the ring warped a little during welding and is not
> perpendicular to the centerline coming through the back H-section mount
> holes. It was off about 5 degrees by my figuring. I pulled the tube out
> and trimmed the front end of the boom tube at a taper (measured back the
> 1/4" on the top and drew a line around the tube and cut) to get the tube
to
> sink all the way into the ring all the way around. It worked except for a
> area between about 4 o'clock and 6 o'clock that has about 1/16 of ring
still
> showing.
Hi Jeremy and Kolb Gang,
I had a very similar problem on my cage. I was just test fitting the
tube to make sure it would fit when I get to the point of installing it. I
had to use a piece of wood on the end of the tube and tap it into the ring
along with alot of fussing because it didn't want to go in. After I got it
into the ring the tube was pressing real hard against the right side of the
cage. When I tried to shim the tube to be in the center of the of the cage
where the "H" section bolts up, it would actually deform the sides of the
cage somewhat. At the ring the tube had bottomed out on the right side and
the left side was not all the way in the ring. Then things got really good!
No matter how hard myself and my son tried, we could not get the tube out.
Out of desperation I took the hacksaw to it. MY tube is now about 1" shorter
(I don't think this is a problem) and the only thing I could figure to do
was to reposition the ring. So out comes the hacksaw again and I cut the
tabs loose where they are welded to the ring(should have cut these loose
first then the tube would have come out-hindsight is 20/20 ya know) . I'm
not a welder and don't have the equipment either so off to South Mississippi
Lightaircraft I go where Thomas Smith kindly TIG welded the ring in
straight. I called John Yates to discuss the problem and he was surprised
that I had this problem. I thought it must have been one of a kind till I
read Jeremy's post. The tube fits real good now and hopefully it won't be
too long before I put the tube in again with the tail feathers attached. I'm
building the wings right now and am probably 75% complete with them. I hope
to get in the air sometime this summer.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Worthington" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/17/00 |
I have had made several phone calls to TNK and I am happy when Sue answerers
the phone because I know I will get a prompt solution to my problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Baker" <okiejoe(at)brightok.net> |
| Subject: | Nice bunch of people |
I guess I've lurked on just about every list that has any activitiy at all
and I've just got to say this. The Kolb list is the friendliest and most
informative of all that I've seen. You guys (and gals?) are evidently a
very intelligent bunch of people and you use your intelligence in a very
constructive way without burning anyone down, yet, I've seen some very stern
and and to the point admonishments to individuals at different times about
different subjects that always seem to be taken as good advice.
I have learned much about homebuilding and look forward to the time when I
can start my own plane. I have my shop ready now with all the tools I need
and I'm armed with much good information thanks to you guys. When the time
is right, I'll start building.
Keep up with what you're doing...
Joe Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Conversion |
In a message dated 00-02-17 4:57:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
swidersk(at)digital.net writes:
<< It is in fact
superior to what Rotax is using in their aviation motors because the stock
Ducati
system does not have a timing curve built in to it like the Nipendenso does.
That
is why stock Rotax engines idle so rough (watch them shake & listen to them
rattle) & are harder to start. >>
Rich:
Please don't get the impression that am trying to run down Dave's (or
your) ignition system. You can't argue with success. All of us are
tinkerers and experimenters or we wouldn't be building our own planes. I was
trying to make a different point, which is that I think that there are some
things which are better left alone, especially on airplanes where changes to
even simple systems can often interact in unexpected, and occasionally
tragic, ways.
Let me illustrate what I mean. When we installed the computer network in
my office there were three players; the hardware guy, the software guy and
the network guy. All three of them claimed their product was just dandy.
But it didn't work. The network guy said the hardware guy screwed up, the
hardware guy said his stuff was fine, and the software guy screwed up . .
you can imagine the rest. It was a complex system that interacted in a funny
way that the three individual experts couldn't figure out. (So I had to do
it myself.)
Rotax engines are a little like that. There are no end of vendors who
promise me improved performance with their aftermarket products: tuned
mufflers, spark advanced ignition system, cockpit adjustable mixture system,
controllable prop etc. But if you put all that stuff on your engine and
problems develop none of those individual vendors are going to be able to
straighten you out. In fact, the presence of that non stock stuff makes
diagnosing a problem and fixing it that much harder.
It sounds like you are having great luck with your mikuni carbs and
nipondenso ignition system. God bless you. But poor Dave, who used to be my
hangarmate, has had his plane for nearly a year and hasn't ever been able to
get his engine to run right. He's tried three props that I know of, had the
cylinders redone, put a lot of money into his panel, and you can still count
his total hours of flying time in the plane on one hand. I bet that on a
dollars for hours flown basis he could be riding on the Concorde.
I suspect that one of the problems is that his nonstandard ignition
system makes it harder to diagnose the situation. When I don't like what I'm
getting from my 100% stock 582 I call up Kerry at Lockwood. He has an
accurate benchmark to think about my problems because they have run a lot of
stock 582's. So I use the plugs he recommends, the gas he recommends, the
oil he recommends etc etc. That way when something goes wrong, his
diagnostic hunches and suggested fixes have some real meaningful experience
to back them up. Dave's engine is a one-of-a-kind, which has to make the
process of figuring out what the problem is that much harder, not impossible,
but harder.
I come by my opinion honestly. I am the world's biggest chicken.
Another illustration: I have a 3.47:1 Ebox on my 582. I had a 72" quick
adjust IVO. The prop ran great, but there were problems with blade movement
in the hub. I sent it back to IVO. He knurled the inside of the hub and
promised it would solve my problem. It didn't. I called him up. He said
he'd come up with another fix. He called back a few days later and started
to describe the fix. It very quickly became apparent to me that he had zero
experience with turning a prop that big that slow and I was going to be his
guinea pig. I stopped the conversation and politely told him that I wasn't
with the program and could I get my money back. To his credit, he refunded
me the entire purchase price 4 YEARS AFTER I BOUGHT THE PROP. You know the
old saying that "I don't want to be the first guy to do something in an
airplane"? My corollary of that is that I don't want to be the only guy to
be doing something in an airplane. There is safety in numbers.
Mark Sellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel brakes |
Good looking bird you picked up.
Merle
Twinstar in Orlando
In a message dated 2/18/00 11:03:00 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rsettle(at)flash.net writes:
<<
One of many questions, I'm a the proud owner of an Original Firestar as
of last week. 377 Rotax. The original wheels have no brake system on
them and I would like to inquire from you what would be my best and
least expensive way to install brakes on my new Firestar. These wheels
are 5" and are no bolt solid steel.
Thanks in advance.
Picture page:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=111951&a=819423&p=15531703
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin hobbs" <tonibec(at)hotmail.com> |
I have My Twinstar Mk lll for sale all options
Engine is 503 with blown con rod bearing.
sell whitout engine.
$10,000 US.
Martin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beaufordw(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Boom tube installation |
Brother Cooley:
My major tube is about 2 inches shorter than advertised...( my 'ol lady knew
that well in advance of the wedding, so she has no case...) anyway, I
dropped that sucker (the tube) when I was fitting her up to the ring...
(which, by the way, didn't fit too well anyway...see the Kolb archives ref
the ice-capades ring fitting festival of 1998)... I trimmed off the affected
portion... the shortened tube hasn't caused a single problem as yet, so I
would not be too concerned... course I ain't tried to actually fly what I
laughingly refer to as my "airplane" as yet, so there may well be some
additional aerodynamic impacts down the road... heh, heh, heh,....but it
looks right presentable perched in the driveway... will give you a first
hand report directly from the orthopedic ward on the kinetic consequences of
inadvertant tube shortening as soon as I get this trailer welded together
and get this wad of dacron covered kleenex out to a flat spot to attempt
aviation... Only two welding fires (both minor) in the garage so far...
In the meantime, think positively and be of good cheer and stout demeanor...
I retain a child-like optimism that any competent physician can deal with
boom deficiencies...
I remain, Sir, your humble servant....
Beauford, The aluminum butcher of Brandon, Florida...
Still hacking away at Firefly #076
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Boom tube installation
>
> > I got a question. Last night my father and I temporarily installed the
> boom
> > tube to locate the H-section holes. I checked the squareness of the
boom
> > tube like the manual said but when I slide the tube in the ring there
was
> > about a 1/4" of ring showing on the bottom (looking from in front of the
> > cage down on the ring) and the tube was "bottomed out" on the top of the
> > ring. My guess is that the ring warped a little during welding and is
not
> > perpendicular to the centerline coming through the back H-section mount
> > holes. It was off about 5 degrees by my figuring. I pulled the tube
out
> > and trimmed the front end of the boom tube at a taper (measured back the
> > 1/4" on the top and drew a line around the tube and cut) to get the tube
> to
> > sink all the way into the ring all the way around. It worked except for
a
> > area between about 4 o'clock and 6 o'clock that has about 1/16 of ring
> still
> > showing.
>
>
> Hi Jeremy and Kolb Gang,
> I had a very similar problem on my cage. I was just test fitting the
> tube to make sure it would fit when I get to the point of installing it. I
> had to use a piece of wood on the end of the tube and tap it into the ring
> along with alot of fussing because it didn't want to go in. After I got it
> into the ring the tube was pressing real hard against the right side of
the
> cage. When I tried to shim the tube to be in the center of the of the cage
> where the "H" section bolts up, it would actually deform the sides of the
> cage somewhat. At the ring the tube had bottomed out on the right side and
> the left side was not all the way in the ring. Then things got really
good!
> No matter how hard myself and my son tried, we could not get the tube out.
> Out of desperation I took the hacksaw to it. MY tube is now about 1"
shorter
> (I don't think this is a problem) and the only thing I could figure to do
> was to reposition the ring. So out comes the hacksaw again and I cut the
> tabs loose where they are welded to the ring(should have cut these loose
> first then the tube would have come out-hindsight is 20/20 ya know) . I'm
> not a welder and don't have the equipment either so off to South
Mississippi
> Lightaircraft I go where Thomas Smith kindly TIG welded the ring in
> straight. I called John Yates to discuss the problem and he was surprised
> that I had this problem. I thought it must have been one of a kind till I
> read Jeremy's post. The tube fits real good now and hopefully it won't be
> too long before I put the tube in again with the tail feathers attached.
I'm
> building the wings right now and am probably 75% complete with them. I
hope
> to get in the air sometime this summer.
>
> Later,
> John Cooley
> Building FS II #1162
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Coggins, Josh, NNO" <joshcoggins(at)att.com> |
Fellow Kolbers,
I just moved my Firestar I to a controlled airport and need to buy a
radio to be able to fly. My dad uses a KX99 and has had good luck with it
so far. But I like the Icom and Yaesu radios looks better. I am leaning
more towards the Yaesu because of it's small size. What kind of luck have
you all had with the Icom and Yaesu brands? I don't know anyone in my area
that has used a Yaesu, so I have no knowledge to draw from. Any response is
appreciated.
BTW I am eagerly waiting on the results of the Powerfin prop testing, as I
may be in the market for a new prop soon.
Josh
Firestar I
Prescott, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lock nuts and matco brakes |
Rick -
Regarding making the "loop reservoir" for your Matco brakes, here's how
I did mine:
I installed a single piece of brake line (about 16 inches long - long
enough to pass around the front of the brake pedals) connecting the two
reservoir fittings (one fitting per brake cyl). This piece
of tubing loops toward the front, with the middle ending up just forward
of the brake pedals. At this center point, I cut the brake
line and installed a tee fitting, with the middle arm of the fitting
pointing straight up. On this middle arm of the tee, I installed
another piece of brake line, about three inches long, extending upward
thru the notch you cut in your floorpan, just forward of the brake
pedals. I capped the end of the short vertical tube with a plastic cap,
and drilled a tiny (3/64") hole in the side of the tube just under
the cap. This is the breather hole. There is no pressure in this
section, so no need for a high pressure cap - just a cheap plastic cap
will do. You fill the system thru this little vertical tube. Hope this
works for you.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, s/n 300 in
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Settle <rsettle(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: handheld radios |
>"Coggins, Josh, NNO" wrote:
> What kind of luck have you all had with the Icom and Yaesu brands?
> Josh
> Firestar I
> Prescott, AZ
Josh, I have been using the little Icom IC-A4 for about two years now
and found it to be a great little talker. Controls are harder to use at
first than the Yeasu. I have dropped it many times in the grass. Lost
the little rubber plug covers twice. Icom booth people at Sun & Fun will
replace them for free! Talks just as well I have found, and costs a
little less. Mine was $275.00 at S&F 2 years ago from Tropic Aero booth.
Once you get used to the controls, and how to use it, I would rate it an
8 on a 10 scale. Also, usage has been with a Lazair, with no resister
anything and a Pro-com helmet with the Expensive icom push to talk
adapter.
Randy
Original Firestar I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Conversion |
Mark,
No offense taken, I'm just trying to point out that what you refer to as
"nonstock" is in fact stock on tens of thousands of engines & many of those are
Rotaxes. Nipendenso is a stock system. There is nothing mysterious, magical or
eccentric about it. There are no subtle interfacing variables involved. You
diagnose it like any Ducati system. They are essentially the same except
Nipendenso's black box has a timing curve built in. If any of the subsystems
fail in the Nipendenso or Ducati, they will produce identical symptoms,
regardless if it was a trigger coil or secondary coil or plug wire or ect. ect.
...Richard Swiderski
>
>
> Rich:
>
> Please don't get the impression that am trying to run down Dave's (or
> your) ignition system. .....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Micah Froese" <mfroese(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handheld radios |
I use an ICOM as a backup radio for IFR, (Cessna 177 RG), and have found it
to be an absolutely outstanding radio. Easy to use, reliable, and comes with
lots of extras, i.e. cords, holster, charger, etc.
Micah Froese
>Fellow Kolbers,
> I just moved my Firestar I to a controlled airport and need to buy
>a
>radio to be able to fly. My dad uses a KX99 and has had good luck with it
>so far. But I like the Icom and Yaesu radios looks better. I am leaning
>more towards the Yaesu because of it's small size. What kind of luck have
>you all had with the Icom and Yaesu brands? I don't know anyone in my area
>that has used a Yaesu, so I have no knowledge to draw from. Any response
>is
>appreciated.
>
>BTW I am eagerly waiting on the results of the Powerfin prop testing, as I
>may be in the market for a new prop soon.
>
>Josh
>Firestar I
>Prescott, AZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
Martin,
You have a picture you could e-mail??
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: martin hobbs <tonibec(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 9:43 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk lll
>
>
> I have My Twinstar Mk lll for sale all options
> Engine is 503 with blown con rod bearing.
> sell whitout engine.
> $10,000 US.
> Martin.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Halstead" <deanbo(at)calweb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handheld radios |
I'm a licensed Radio Amateur and have owned Yaesu hand-held radios in the
past. They were always very reliable and had far more capability than I
ever needed or used.
The problem now is that there are so many features packed into the very
compact containers of these contemporary radios that the little buttons are
hard to deal with. (They have nearly grown TOO small)
Just envision yourself bouncing around up there and test whether you can
operate the radio controls that you need.
Yaesu, ICOM and Alinco are all very good radios.
Dean Halstead
MK-III (under construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handheld radios |
Happy Weekend Kolbers:
I have been using a King KX99 since 1989, mounted in my
Firestar and MK III. Very seldom use VOR capability,
however it is there as a backup. Reckon I like it OK or I
would have replaced it with one of these newer models.
Talked to folks all over the country and Canada. Only
problem is moisture getting into the plugs and sockets that
are mounted on top of the radio. Just got it overhauled and
realized after all these years I have to be more careful
keeping it dry. I will try to remember to carry a small
plastic bag or even have a vinyl cover made to protect it
when I am washing aircraft or it is in inclement weather.
There is probably a lot of info on handhelds in the Kolb
Archives:
http://www.matronics.com/search/
Beautiful day to fly, but I got to work on Miss P'fer and
try to get thing repaired and engine installed.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Butchered aluminum and Kleenex wonder bird |
Hey Beauford
I will be in Florida in a couple weeks picking up some Mk111 parts. Could
This big dumb Canook drop in to say hey and inspect this flyin machine of
yours. Perhaps we can discuss the merits of overhand vs underhand Cat-a-pult
tosses while I am there. Perhaps your little kitty would volenteer to assist.
Hey Lar... are you in Florida also?
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How To convert Fuse Blocks to RINGS |
>>Would you like to see a way to convert an ATC Fuse Block with Push On Tabs,
>>to use RINGS?
>>AAMR/AirCore Fuse Block With Rings
>
Please don't do this folks. There is no basis either
in 30+ years experience on aircraft (Cessna rocker
switches) nor in the physics of this wiring technology
to shy away from Fast-Ons . . . see:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/faston3.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com> |
Hey John, quick wing question, when building my main wings, I used two saw horses
which were level, placed the inboard steel rib on the one and at the other
end, had the trailing edge spar and the main spar resting on that saw horse, this
left the leading edge spar without support. I've got both wings almost done
at this point and seem to have a slight twist in the wing, I'm hoping that
this is acceptable, please tell me I don't have to rebuild these things! Is
it allowable to have some twist in the wing? I'm thinkin that having the main
and trailing edge spar resting on the level sawhorse should have given me a
good wing, let me know what you think, thanks in advance!
Hey John, just went to measure the amount of twist on that wing of mine, when I
place the steel inboard rib and the outer most wing rib on the level sawhorses,
the trailing edge of the outer most wing rib is stickin up bout 0.5 inches
off the level surface. Tell me I can counter this somehow when rigging the wings?
---
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Bill and others,
If you don't mind me sharing my opinion too I might be able to help.
Any wing twist is not good and even though I've heard others building the
wings on sawhorses, nothing compares to a nice level table. I have seen
other FireStars with wing twist, so all is not lost. Sometimes the other
wing may offset the twist and cancel it out. If this does not happen you
can drill an offset into the universal joint thereby raising or lowering
the trailing edge of that wing. You would have to order new joints and
drill them accordingly. The only way that you will know if there is a
roll tendency is to fly it. Be very careful here, without Kolb experience
it could ruin your day, so you would need someone with the experience to
fly it for you. Because these are not fast planes, a slight twist will
not put the plane into a dangerous snap-roll. The amount of roll
tendency, of course, would be determined by the amount of twist.
Just my opinion ....
Ralph
Original FireStar
writes:
>>
> Hey John, quick wing question, when building my main wings, I used
> two saw horses which were level, placed the inboard steel rib on the
> one and at the other end, had the trailing edge spar and the main
> spar resting on that saw horse, this left the leading edge spar
> without support. I've got both wings almost done at this point and
> seem to have a slight twist in the wing> ---
> Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Yo Bill; saw your query to John, but you got my interest up, so here's my 2
cents:
If I understand the situation correctly, you have about 1/2" of washout in
the outboard wing panel, and the trailing edge of the wing is 1/2" higher
than it should be. If that is the case, you are not in any danger.
However: if I were you, I would now go to great pains to make the other
wing exactly identical in washout to your present wing. If both wings each
have 1/2" of washout, each one being symmetrical to the other, (very
important!) it will fly fine.
Take pains that any curve in the trailing edge does not introduce a bind
into the aileron as it attaches, you do not want the hinges in a bind, so
that it strains against itself as the aileron goes up and down.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Hey John, quick wing question, when building my main wings, I used two saw
>horses which were level, placed the inboard steel rib on the one and at the
>other end, had the trailing edge spar and the main spar resting on that saw
>horse, this left the leading edge spar without support. I've got both
>wings almost done at this point and seem to have a slight twist in the wing,
>I'm hoping that this is acceptable, please tell me I don't have to rebuild
>these things! Is it allowable to have some twist in the wing? I'm thinkin
>that having the main and trailing edge spar resting on the level sawhorse
>should have given me a good wing, let me know what you think, thanks in
>advance!
>
>
>Hey John, just went to measure the amount of twist on that wing of mine,
>when I place the steel inboard rib and the outer most wing rib on the level
>sawhorses, the trailing edge of the outer most wing rib is stickin up bout
>0.5 inches off the level surface. Tell me I can counter this somehow when
>rigging the wings?
>---
>Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Hand Held Radio's |
Bought an ICOM 21 at sun-n-fun in 1994--have used it almost daily since I
got it-Never have had a problem-and the antenna on my Mark 3 -not the best
one in the world-had a small ground plane.
Just installed the new 760 channel made in Australia.Installed new Antenna
and a bigger ground plane. Quite a difference in price-The ICOM 21
definitely did its job-found wiring it in to 12V direct definitely improved
performance-as u all know does not take much to receive -but you need a lot
to transmit.Maximum range I ever got out of ICOM 21 at 1000 feet-was approx.
150 miles-talked to a Lake Seaplane flying approx. 50 miles out in the Gulf.
Early one morning last year.The ICOM sold in 5 minutes-even 6 years old.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/19/00 7:59:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rpike(at)preferred.com writes:
<< I would now go to great pains to make the other
wing exactly identical in washout to your present wing. If both wings each
have 1/2" of washout, each one being symmetrical to the other, (very
important!) it will fly fine. >>
Richard is exactly right, a little washout is a good thing if in both wings.
The stall will be much better in that it will have less tendency to drop a
wing tip. We do this on purpose with Radio Control planes.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I agree 100% with Howard. Sorta. If you truly do have washout, then it
seems to me that stalls would be gentler and more controllable. Making both
wings the same would give even, balanced control, etc. My interpretation
of washout is having slightly less angle of attack at the wingtips than at
the roots. That way, as the root of the wing begins to stall, the tips
would still be flying, and maintain control. This is desirable, and I
understand that it's designed into many certified planes. The opposite
would, or could, be very dangerous. Hang gliders are designed with a lot
of washout - the ones I've flown anyway - and the stalls are almost
undetectable. Very gentle and smooth - much fun. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2000 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Warped Wing
>
> In a message dated 2/19/00 7:59:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> rpike(at)preferred.com writes:
>
> << I would now go to great pains to make the other
> wing exactly identical in washout to your present wing. If both wings
each
> have 1/2" of washout, each one being symmetrical to the other, (very
> important!) it will fly fine. >>
> Richard is exactly right, a little washout is a good thing if in both
wings.
> The stall will be much better in that it will have less tendency to drop a
> wing tip. We do this on purpose with Radio Control planes.
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS I
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Anybody on the list have any experience with a fuel injected Hirth 2706. If
so, would love to hear your opinion/comments.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com> |
I'm also wondering if there is a little twist in the wing and one notices some
roll, can't it be taken care of by adjusting the ailerons when they are rigged?
Oh by the way, both my wings are done at this point and the twist I believe will
be opposite in the other wing, but very slight.
---
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
On Sat, 19 Feb 2000 17:42:43 ul15rhb wrote:
>
>Bill and others,
>
>If you don't mind me sharing my opinion too I might be able to help.
>Any wing twist is not good and even though I've heard others building the
>wings on sawhorses, nothing compares to a nice level table. I have seen
>other FireStars with wing twist, so all is not lost. Sometimes the other
>wing may offset the twist and cancel it out. If this does not happen you
>can drill an offset into the universal joint thereby raising or lowering
>the trailing edge of that wing. You would have to order new joints and
>drill them accordingly. The only way that you will know if there is a
>roll tendency is to fly it. Be very careful here, without Kolb experience
>it could ruin your day, so you would need someone with the experience to
>fly it for you. Because these are not fast planes, a slight twist will
>not put the plane into a dangerous snap-roll. The amount of roll
>tendency, of course, would be determined by the amount of twist.
>
>Just my opinion ....
>
>Ralph
>Original FireStar
>
>
> writes:
>>>
>> Hey John, quick wing question, when building my main wings, I used
>> two saw horses which were level, placed the inboard steel rib on the
>> one and at the other end, had the trailing edge spar and the main
>> spar resting on that saw horse, this left the leading edge spar
>> without support. I've got both wings almost done at this point and
>> seem to have a slight twist in the wing> ---
>> Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
>
>
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Larry and Gang:
Homer Kolb designed a wing that does all that, if you build
it like the plans call for. The airfoil is Homer's and the
wing tip is Homer's. He designed them that way for the
purpose of gentle stall, high lift, and fantastic climb.
You can get away with a lot of things flying Homer's
airplanes than you can't with most others.
If we do not build them quite straight, maybe a little twist
(like mine), they still fly good. If it wants to roll one
way or the other, stick a trim tab on the aileron. I have
never built one perfect yet.
john h
PS: However, if washout would have made the Kolb wing fly
better, Homer would have built it that way. If the wings
didn't look like they were drooping, Homer would have not
put any dihedral in them. Flat equals performance. Won't
fly hands off that way, but I built the airplane to fly. If
I didn't want to fly it, I would hire me a pilot to fly it
for me. Then I could fly hands off all the time. hehehe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
>
> I'm also wondering if there is a little twist in the wing and one notices some
roll, can't it be taken care of by adjusting the ailerons when they are rigged?
> Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
>
Bill J and Gang:
Don't think so. You can adjust stick position with
ailerons, but not adverse roll.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
Remember---Airelon is a French word for little wing--agree with John 100%
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
I'm using a ground adjustable warp drive 58" on my Jabiru. Nice, and it
really scats. Took a few tries to get the rpms right, but now its on
the money. It doesn't take long to make the adjustment either.. Warp
sends a nice protracter, but I still don't know how to use it properly,
so just go by how many marks I turn each blade. Works.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
OOP!! wrong list. Sorry
Dallas in Ar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "plane" <plane(at)atomic.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Johnston Jr. <wingmen(at)hotbot.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2000 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: wing twist
>
> I'm also wondering if there is a little twist in the wing and one notices
some roll, can't it be taken care of by adjusting the ailerons when they are
rigged?
> Oh by the way, both my wings are done at this point and the twist I
believe will be opposite in the other wing, but very slight.
> ---
> Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
>
>
> On Sat, 19 Feb 2000 17:42:43 ul15rhb wrote:
> >
> >Bill and others,
> >
> >If you don't mind me sharing my opinion too I might be able to help.
> >Any wing twist is not good and even though I've heard others building the
> >wings on sawhorses, nothing compares to a nice level table. I have seen
> >other FireStars with wing twist, so all is not lost. Sometimes the other
> >wing may offset the twist and cancel it out. If this does not happen you
> >can drill an offset into the universal joint thereby raising or lowering
> >the trailing edge of that wing. You would have to order new joints and
> >drill them accordingly. The only way that you will know if there is a
> >roll tendency is to fly it. Be very careful here, without Kolb experience
> >it could ruin your day, so you would need someone with the experience to
> >fly it for you. Because these are not fast planes, a slight twist will
> >not put the plane into a dangerous snap-roll. The amount of roll
> >tendency, of course, would be determined by the amount of twist.
> >
> >Just my opinion ....
> >
> >Ralph
> >Original FireStar
> >
> >
> > writes:
> >>>
> >> Hey John, quick wing question, when building my main wings, I used
> >> two saw horses which were level, placed the inboard steel rib on the
> >> one and at the other end, had the trailing edge spar and the main
> >> spar resting on that saw horse, this left the leading edge spar
> >> without support. I've got both wings almost done at this point and
> >> seem to have a slight twist in the wing> ---
> >> Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
> >
> >Bill
I had a wing that did not have the same amount of wash out as the
other side,
> I tried to adjust with aielarons I could not get it to stop trying to roll
all that would happen when I adjusted the aielarons was my stick posetion
would change and I would still have the roll. I was lucky that I had two
struts as I could adjust the wash out with them. I added more wash out and
it fix it. You will have to fix your wing, better now then latter, more
wash out is ok.
Randy kolb ultrastar
>
> HotBot - Search smarter.
> http://www.hotbot.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Not trying to 2nd guess Homer, John. Just trying to help someone feel
> their way thru a problem. Lar.
Lar and Gang:
Sorry. Was not my intent to make a correction. Only
thinking out loud. Wasn't the way I intended the last msg
to be interpreted.
It is easy to write something one way that is interpreted
another way by the recepients. I knew you were trying to
ease a builders mind. I remember how disheartened I was the
first wing I built that was about 1/8 inch out. Could not
believe it could happen. My saw horses were parallel,
weighted down, solid as a rock. I thin I built the second
wing the same way. Still didn't make any difference how it
flew.
My brother Jim welded up saw horses, then bolted them to the
floor. Next time I build wings, that is the way I am going
to do it.
Again, my appologies if you took my msg the wrong way.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
AUF front page 2.2Take the time to see what our Australian friends are doing
this summer 2000.This is their latest update-just received from AU.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
----- Original Message -----
From: greg moloney
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2000 5:18 AM
Subject: AUF front page 2 (http://www.auf.asn.au/index.html)
Welcome to the
AUSTRALIAN ULTRALIGHT FEDERATION
Web Service
This web service is operated by the Australian Ultralight Federation
for its members, and for all those interested in flying just for the fun of
it - or in buying or building their own aircraft - or just interested in
learning a little about grass-roots aviation.
What's an ultralight? Well there appears to be no recognised
definition but it's a powered aircraft intended for experimental,
educational or recreational purposes - usually designed to operate at low
speeds - which may be totally factory designed and manufactured, or
assembled at home from a factory supplied kit, or totally designed and built
at home by an experimental enthusiast. Have a look at the photo gallery
and marvel at the airframe configurations covered in the various ultralight
categories - the only thing these craft have in common is that they fly
safely and - in Australia - they must weigh less than a stipulated standard
when fully loaded, 300 kilograms (660 pounds) for the non-certificated
single-seater you design and build yourself up to 544 kg (1200 lbs) for an
experimental, amateur built two-seater where a minimum of 51% of the
construction is done by the owner/builders. The latter can be extended to
614 kg if floats are fitted.
At the heart of the ultralight movement in Australia, as elsewhere, are
those non-professionals who build and fly their own - often very
successful - designs. However many excellent ultralight aircraft are also
conventionally designed and built in Australia and available to the
community as finished aircraft from the factory or as kits for you to
complete the assembly at home. The manufacturers of these aircraft have
established an effective - and growing - export industry, and usually have
agents in Asia, Europe and North America. We suggest you read a little of
the history of ultralighting in Australia.
If you intend coming to Australia for a holiday why not include flight
training in your schedule? The highly competent ultralight instructors, the
excellent weather, the wide open spaces and the uncluttered skies are most
conducive to gaining your pilot certificate quickly and enjoyably.
Australians too can utilise a vacation period to learn to fly, away from
their home state or you can extend your training over a longer period at an
AUF approved local flight training facility. Have a look at the learn to fly
and the ultralight flight school pages.
The Australian Ultralight Federation promotes, stimulates and develops
the international activity of ultralight flying, for experiment, sport and
recreation. The elected councillors, backed up by our very effective
managers, are responsible to the Civil Aviation Safety Authority for the
administration of ultralight aviation in Australia, including the issue of
pilots' certifications, aircraft registrations and the approval of flight
training facilities. The AUF also acts as the advocate of the ultralight
community within the public arena. The Federation is affiliated to the FAI -
Fdration Aronautique Internationale - through the Australian Sport
Aviation Confederation.
Pic of the month: Storch by Nestor Slepcev of Storch Aviation Australia.
Nestor can't keep up with the demand, particularly from outback Australia,
for this STOL aircraft - which may be registered as an AUF ultralight or as
a general aviation aircraft.
Some ULTRALIGHT services which may interest you
Want to learn to fly at the lowest possible cost - short of enlisting in the
Royal Australian Air Force?.
Why not contact your nearest Australian ultralight flight school - and maybe
arrange a 30 minute trial instructional flight? It will cost $40 or less.
Are you interested in checking out the nearest Australian ultralight flying
club? Saturday is a good time to drive over and listen to the tales of
daring.
And why not view our on-line ground school modules which will give you an
introduction to the principles of flight, aviation meteorology, navigation
and other topics?
How about a look at the Australian factory built ultralights currently in
production?
Or you can ascertain the costs, and hours to build, for home-built kits
Also it may be of interest to see what services are provided by the various
ultralight maintenance organisations around Australia.
There are a number of good manuals dealing with ultralight and general
aviation, have a look at our recommendations. The sources of other devices,
flight planning software and other merchandise that the well equipped
ultralight aviator might use, or wear, are also listed.
And we have produced a compendium of frequently asked questions which you
may find helpful.
Browser settings:- The pages within this website have been laid out so that
a horizontal screen resolution of 800 pixels will just fill the frame. Most
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displayed in this box. If you find this too large or too small then you must
adjust your browser's base font size.
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telephone: international +61 2 6280 4700
national: 02 6280 4700
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Receive email when this page changes
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AUF members page Learn to fly Flight training facilities
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2000 John Brandon - mail to: webmaster(at)auf.asn.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re:"loop reservoir" |
Rick -
Regarding making the "loop reservoir" for your Matco brakes,
here's how
I did mine:
===============
from the left cylinder i went forward 6 to 8 inches and
installed a tee, the branch outlet of the tee runs back
with a curve to the right cylinder. in the straight part of
the tee i installed a short piece of tubing and epoxied a
plastic syringe needle holder with the needle removed. the
resivor is the syringe that twists onto the needle holder. i
cut the plunger off at about 1/2 the original length. if i
need to add fluid, i will twist the syringe off the holder
and fill it up again, and twist it back on. i hold the
syringe on with velcro
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Warped Wing & Short Boom Tube |
Hello Beauford, John, Lar, Bill and Gang:
If I may add my 2 cents worth, I have just got through installing the
ribs, leading edge and trailing edge on my FS II wings. I searched archives
and browsed web sites to try to figure the best way to do it. Finally
decided on the saw horse method. Bought metal saw horses from Lowes and hung
concrete blocks between the legs and screwed 2x4's 5 ft long up edgeways on
the top of horse. Of course I sanded the top of the 2x4's smooth and leveled
them. Then slid ribs on wings and installed inboard steel rib perpendicular
to the "H" section. Here's the kicker, with the leading and trailing edge
tubing tie wrapped to the ribs and resting on the 2x4's I used a Smart Tool
digital readout level http://www.instsales.com/prod06.htm to check each rib.
This is a great tool and is very easy to use. There is no guessing as to
when it is perfectly level. Would highly recommend it to anyone building one
of these great planes. I double checked and checked again as I riveted each
rib to the main spar. The wing as best I can tell is perfectly flat.
Brother Beauford, I would like to thank you for consoling me about my
short tube. If I remember correctly Brother Ben Ransom had a short tube
also, so maybe we will be ok.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
> > Not trying to 2nd guess Homer, John. Just trying to help someone feel
> > their way thru a problem
I remember how disheartened I was the
> first wing I built that was about 1/8 inch out. Could not
> believe it could happen. My saw horses were parallel,
> weighted down, solid as a rock. I thin I built the second
> wing the same way. Still didn't make any difference how it
> flew.
>
> My brother Jim welded up saw horses, then bolted them to the
> floor. Next time I build wings, that is the way I am going
> to do it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Wing trailing edge |
I have a odd question. My prints from Kolb have a hand written change on
the print that changed the wall thickness of the trailing edge tube from
.028 to .035. (It is a 1.125" tube obviously) Now this is a half hearted
question cause all I have is .035 left in the tubing rack but I don't
remember making the change and oddly enough after all the hours of looking
at the prints , I don't ever remember seeing it!?!? I have the worst memory
in the world but I don't remember making the change so I'm assuming that
"Old" Kolb did it before they sent me my prints. Anyway I want to attach it
tomorrow so unless I hear otherwise I will go for it. Anyone got a second
to look at your own prints and tell what they give for wall thickness???
This is a MARK 3
Thanks a ton.
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing trailing edge |
Anyone got a second
> to look at your own prints and tell what they give for wall thickness???
> This is a MARK 3
>
> Thanks a ton.
> Jeremy Casey
Jeremy and Gang:
I don't have the prints or change, but if I was building a
new wing I would go with .035, especially on the MK III.
Lots of stuff hanging and working on the trailing edge of
the wing. Might help stiffen it up a little.
I reiterate that that is what I would do if it were mine. I
have no data, prints, changes, etc., to back me up. I am
not telling anybody else to do this.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug <snyder47(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm new, I'm wondering if its possible to put a tri gear on a Mark111?
The MK111 is going to be the plane I've setteled on, but not the first
by choice.
Before ya'll hammmer on me too hard, I ridden Motercycles for 40
years,racing
in just about every form thats possible.
I wanted a tandem set up,aka Talon XP,
But my 15 yearold Daughter is going to get the most input by my choice.
She wanted side by side, with tri gear, Kolb is the choice, just asking
about the possiblility.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
Were are you located North of the Mason-Dixon line?.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lawrence dorn" <ltdorn(at)hotmail.com> |
i have one that should be here next week. I am putting mine on a gyrocopter.
email me later and i will give you an update.
Lawrence Dorn
silverdale,wa
----Original Message Follows----
From: Curbut(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Hirth 2706
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 22:19:38 EST
(v1.31 1998/05/13) Sun Feb 20 06:40:15 2000)
mail.sinclair.net (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id TAA32320for
Anybody on the list have any experience with a fuel injected Hirth 2706. If
so, would love to hear your opinion/comments.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com> |
I just don't wanna tear these two wings apart at this stage of the game, I used
two sawhorses that were nice and level, with the weights, just that the assembly
manuel didn't make it all too clear where to rest the outboard end of the
wing. In hindsight, I know what to do and know why the twist is there, in looking
at the amount of twist, can't see where it will be too bad, and there has
to be a way to compensate it either in adjusting the drag stut, lift strut, or
even putting tabs on the ailerons if need be. At this point my mind is being
put at ease a bit and I'm not sick about it like I have been for the past couple
weeks thinkin bout all this!! Thanks guys for the help and for the upcoming
assistance! Sure glad you folks are out there!
---
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
On Sat, 19 Feb 2000 23:17:50 John Hauck wrote:
>
>
>> Not trying to 2nd guess Homer, John. Just trying to help someone feel
>> their way thru a problem. Lar.
>
>Lar and Gang:
>
>Sorry. Was not my intent to make a correction. Only
>thinking out loud. Wasn't the way I intended the last msg
>to be interpreted.
>
>It is easy to write something one way that is interpreted
>another way by the recepients. I knew you were trying to
>ease a builders mind. I remember how disheartened I was the
>first wing I built that was about 1/8 inch out. Could not
>believe it could happen. My saw horses were parallel,
>weighted down, solid as a rock. I thin I built the second
>wing the same way. Still didn't make any difference how it
>flew.
>
>My brother Jim welded up saw horses, then bolted them to the
>floor. Next time I build wings, that is the way I am going
>to do it.
>
>Again, my appologies if you took my msg the wrong way.
>
>john h
>
>
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hand Held Radio's |
I could use some advice on my handheld.
I have a Garmin 190, GPS/navcom. Have had trouble with good reception and
almost no transmission results (lots of noise). I have installed a new
antenna, an aluminium foil ground plane (suggested by local ultralighters),
and have received my best results after installing resistor plugs and low
resistor metal caps for the plugs.
Now I can hear real well and pick up transmissions from about 75 miles away.
But yesterday I was just 5 miles from a control tower and they said that my
transmission was weak. When I press the PTT switch I get a lot of noise.
Any ideas on how to beef up my transmission?? I do not have a power hook-up
so I use the internal battery of the radio.
Jim in Charlotte, NC
Mark 111, Rotax 503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Bill,
I am not sure I read all there was to read on your wings. The one questions
that I still have unanswered in my mind is: do both wings have the same
direction and magnitude of twist. You said that one was washed out - is the
other washed out too? If they are both washed out, then you are in much
better shape than if one has wash-out and the other wash-in. Then you need
to determine if they are of the same magnitude. If they are are washed out
the same direction and magnitude, then you will fly just fine. Perhaps your
stall will be incremintally higher, but that will be acceptable.
You will not correct a twisted wing induced roll by adjusting your ailerons.
If you try to adjust things with your ailerons, you will only change one
thing: the neutral position of your control stick. The ailerons will not
change the roll of the aircraft unless you put pressure on them to do so.
Now an aileron trim tab is another story, it will apply that pressure for
you. They question then becomes, is the amount of pressure needed
appropriate for the trim tab to handle or should other means be sought.
If you have, for instance, 1/2" twist measured at the outboard trailing edge
on wing wing only, then that is quite a bit. It might be corrected with a
trim tab, but that might not be the best way to do it. Probably the angle
of attachment should be adjusted slightly and then a trim tab could be used
to fine tune it afterwards.
It also might be instructive to examine the wings carefully and determine
exactly where the twist is. If it is uniformily distributed along the
length of the wing that is one situation. But if it is twisted only from
the H-section toward the outboard end of the wing, then perhaps you may
consider drilling out the flange rivets and untwisting the outboard section
of wing. If you do this, the outboard wing rib, for instance, will have to
be twisted more than the ribs closer to the H-section; and this presents
more a problem of the holes being offset after the twisting. This has been
done in the past and the builders have drilled the 1/8" to 5/32" dia. This
allows for a correcting a suprising amount of misalignment of the holes.
A coule options you may wish to consider - good luck.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Johnston
Jr.
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Warped Wing
I just don't wanna tear these two wings apart at this stage of the game, I
used two sawhorses that were nice and level, with the weights, just that the
assembly manuel didn't make it all too clear where to rest the outboard end
of the wing. In hindsight, I know what to do and know why the twist is
there, in looking at the amount of twist, can't see where it will be too
bad, and there has to be a way to compensate it either in adjusting the drag
stut, lift strut, or even putting tabs on the ailerons if need be. At this
point my mind is being put at ease a bit and I'm not sick about it like I
have been for the past couple weeks thinkin bout all this!! Thanks guys for
the help and for the upcoming assistance! Sure glad you folks are out
there!
---
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
On Sat, 19 Feb 2000 23:17:50 John Hauck wrote:
>
>
>> Not trying to 2nd guess Homer, John. Just trying to help someone feel
>> their way thru a problem. Lar.
>
>Lar and Gang:
>
>Sorry. Was not my intent to make a correction. Only
>thinking out loud. Wasn't the way I intended the last msg
>to be interpreted.
>
>It is easy to write something one way that is interpreted
>another way by the recepients. I knew you were trying to
>ease a builders mind. I remember how disheartened I was the
>first wing I built that was about 1/8 inch out. Could not
>believe it could happen. My saw horses were parallel,
>weighted down, solid as a rock. I thin I built the second
>wing the same way. Still didn't make any difference how it
>flew.
>
>My brother Jim welded up saw horses, then bolted them to the
>floor. Next time I build wings, that is the way I am going
>to do it.
>
>Again, my appologies if you took my msg the wrong way.
>
>john h
>
>
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Wing trailing edge |
Both .035 and .028 do just fine. As I recall, the wings started with .028
but were later changed to .035 simply because of material availability. The
.028 saves a couple pounds if used in the leading and trailing edges. It is
plenty strong enough.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeremy Casey
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 8:19 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Wing trailing edge
I have a odd question. My prints from Kolb have a hand written change on
the print that changed the wall thickness of the trailing edge tube from
.028 to .035. (It is a 1.125" tube obviously) Now this is a half hearted
question cause all I have is .035 left in the tubing rack but I don't
remember making the change and oddly enough after all the hours of looking
at the prints , I don't ever remember seeing it!?!? I have the worst memory
in the world but I don't remember making the change so I'm assuming that
"Old" Kolb did it before they sent me my prints. Anyway I want to attach it
tomorrow so unless I hear otherwise I will go for it. Anyone got a second
to look at your own prints and tell what they give for wall thickness???
This is a MARK 3
Thanks a ton.
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Boom tube installation |
Jeremy
You did the same thing I would have done with my own airplane.
Dennis
My question is this , is this ring being a few degrees off of
perpendicular a big deal and did I do the right thing by cutting the taper
on the tube to get it in more. I figured the critical thing was going to be
edge distance for the bolts going through the aluminum tube so I wanted more
"meat" past the holes. At the part that is still showing steel ring I have
about 5/16 or so , is this enough edge distance? I can't imagine enough
pull on the tail to pull the H-section out even without the 6 - 3/16" bolts
being there.
Dennis Souder care to comment? I'd appreciate any input on this
one...Thanks
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
web page:
http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/home.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com> |
Thanks Dennis, I've got to recheck the left wing yet, but think the twist will
be a washin for the left and a washout for the right wing, I think I can correct
this partially when I attach the wings to the cage, also I'm sure the twist
is gradual throughout the wing, what happened was the inboard steel rib was resting
on the one sawhorse and i had the outboard resting only on the main and
trailing edge spar tubes, this gave me the 0.5 inch twist. I think I can attach
both wings in such a way where the washout and washin will be maybe .25 inches
on either wing, I should be ok, maybe having to add an aileron trim tab.
What do you guys think? I'll have to get the left wing down off the wall to
measure the exact amount of twist but I built it using the same setup so the twist
should be opposite what I'm seeing with the right wing.
---
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
On Sun, 20 Feb 2000 12:52:48 Dennis Souder wrote:
>
>Bill,
>
>I am not sure I read all there was to read on your wings. The one questions
>that I still have unanswered in my mind is: do both wings have the same
>direction and magnitude of twist. You said that one was washed out - is the
>other washed out too? If they are both washed out, then you are in much
>better shape than if one has wash-out and the other wash-in. Then you need
>to determine if they are of the same magnitude. If they are are washed out
>the same direction and magnitude, then you will fly just fine. Perhaps your
>stall will be incremintally higher, but that will be acceptable.
>
>You will not correct a twisted wing induced roll by adjusting your ailerons.
>If you try to adjust things with your ailerons, you will only change one
>thing: the neutral position of your control stick. The ailerons will not
>change the roll of the aircraft unless you put pressure on them to do so.
>Now an aileron trim tab is another story, it will apply that pressure for
>you. They question then becomes, is the amount of pressure needed
>appropriate for the trim tab to handle or should other means be sought.
>
>If you have, for instance, 1/2" twist measured at the outboard trailing edge
>on wing wing only, then that is quite a bit. It might be corrected with a
>trim tab, but that might not be the best way to do it. Probably the angle
>of attachment should be adjusted slightly and then a trim tab could be used
>to fine tune it afterwards.
>
>It also might be instructive to examine the wings carefully and determine
>exactly where the twist is. If it is uniformily distributed along the
>length of the wing that is one situation. But if it is twisted only from
>the H-section toward the outboard end of the wing, then perhaps you may
>consider drilling out the flange rivets and untwisting the outboard section
>of wing. If you do this, the outboard wing rib, for instance, will have to
>be twisted more than the ribs closer to the H-section; and this presents
>more a problem of the holes being offset after the twisting. This has been
>done in the past and the builders have drilled the 1/8" to 5/32" dia. This
>allows for a correcting a suprising amount of misalignment of the holes.
>
>A coule options you may wish to consider - good luck.
>Dennis
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Johnston
>Jr.
>Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 11:15 AM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Warped Wing
>
>
>I just don't wanna tear these two wings apart at this stage of the game, I
>used two sawhorses that were nice and level, with the weights, just that the
>assembly manuel didn't make it all too clear where to rest the outboard end
>of the wing. In hindsight, I know what to do and know why the twist is
>there, in looking at the amount of twist, can't see where it will be too
>bad, and there has to be a way to compensate it either in adjusting the drag
>stut, lift strut, or even putting tabs on the ailerons if need be. At this
>point my mind is being put at ease a bit and I'm not sick about it like I
>have been for the past couple weeks thinkin bout all this!! Thanks guys for
>the help and for the upcoming assistance! Sure glad you folks are out
>there!
>---
>Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
>
>
>On Sat, 19 Feb 2000 23:17:50 John Hauck wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Not trying to 2nd guess Homer, John. Just trying to help someone feel
>>> their way thru a problem. Lar.
>>
>>Lar and Gang:
>>
>>Sorry. Was not my intent to make a correction. Only
>>thinking out loud. Wasn't the way I intended the last msg
>>to be interpreted.
>>
>>It is easy to write something one way that is interpreted
>>another way by the recepients. I knew you were trying to
>>ease a builders mind. I remember how disheartened I was the
>>first wing I built that was about 1/8 inch out. Could not
>>believe it could happen. My saw horses were parallel,
>>weighted down, solid as a rock. I thin I built the second
>>wing the same way. Still didn't make any difference how it
>>flew.
>>
>>My brother Jim welded up saw horses, then bolted them to the
>>floor. Next time I build wings, that is the way I am going
>>to do it.
>>
>>Again, my appologies if you took my msg the wrong way.
>>
>>john h
>>
>>
>
>
>HotBot - Search smarter.
>http://www.hotbot.com
>
>
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Some of that warp may be removed by tightening up the fabric a bit more in
some areas. Can you unwarp the wing by twisting it by hand? If so then you
may be able to do it with the fabric tightness.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing trailing edge |
>I have a odd question. My prints from Kolb have a hand written change on
>the print that changed the wall thickness of the trailing edge tube from
>.028 to .035. (
We had the same handwritten note on Andy's plans. There is a plug to join
the rear tube to an 18" extension. If this fitted then you should be okay.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing trailing edge |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Jeremy,
The .035 is correct. My Kit #1 was shipped in Nov 98. Prints are Rev
3-96, and like yours show .028 for the rear spar. Page 17, par 5, under
Rear Spar and Aileron Tube calls for .035 when splicing the rear wing
spar. Also, they shipped .035 instead of .028.
Have at it!
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
tHANKS FOR THE REPLY. i'LL GET BACK W/ YOU IN A FEW WEEKS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How To convert Fuse Blocks to RINGS |
> . . .message posted by: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
>
>>In a message dated 2/19/00 10:34:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>>nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
>>
>> Please don't do this folks. There is no basis either
>> in 30+ years experience on aircraft (Cessna rocker
>> switches) nor in the physics of this wiring technology
>> to shy away from Fast-Ons . . . see:
>Bob:
>I was at the airport in Ellensburg Washington calling on a FOB certified
>aircraft mechanic who was working on a Cessna set of rocker switches in a
>panel.
>
>And as has been true with all the APs I've called on in my capacity with AMP
>and with another company selling Mil Spec Aircraft Rated connectors. His
>couldn't curse those things enough as to what a poor and dangerous choice
>they were for aircraft! His experience...not mine.
Experience or opinion? What were the prevailing conditions that produced
any failures he may have witnessed? Were they conditions that might have
pushed ANY terminal to failure? I've heard many a derogatory remark
about fast-ons, some from folk with a long history aircraft. We have
to insist on knowing the physics behind their opinion or it doesn't
account for much. My hero C.F. Kettering said, "You can know a lot
and yet understand nothing."
If you have reason to discount the fast-on as it applies to the fuse
holders, then you have reason to discount the entire fuse holder.
The same technology is used inside the holder to retain fuses as that
which is used to attach wires to the holder's tabs.
>I sold him some Amp #640917 and #640903 Fastons. Since his regular supplier
>Aircraft parts supplier did not and would not carry this item for usage on
>aircraft.
Again, by what argument of fact does the supplier refuse to carry a
product . . . and was he making his decision based on what he sees
in hardware stores (soft copper, plasti-grip clones) or on PIDG
devices or equal?
>I think we need to look at the generic name of this item "Push Ons...and if
>it will Push On will Pull Off? As I said on the page. Is it hard to come
off,
>YES...Is it impossible that they will come off...NO.
Have you read the piece I published on fast-ons? If your aircraft
is subjected to 1/10th the g-loading required to dislodge one of these
terminals, I'll suggest that loose wiring is the least of your
worries. The last fast-on failure I was told about on a Cessna
rocker was where the pitot-heat switch suffered severe meltdown.
The mechanic thought it was fast-on terminal failure which was
was indeed loose . . . until he took the switch apart and found
badly fried contacts and charing internal to the switch housing
. . . the switch failure killed the fast-on, not the other way
around.
>As usual your opinion is welcome and highly respected. But I really think it
>would be better for you and more informative for us if you addressed from
>what you see wrong with the idea of substituting rings for Push On if it's
an
>easy fix.
>I am not telling folks to "shy away from Fast-Ons", but I am saying there is
>another choice for using ATC Fuse Blocks...Which are a really good simple
>idea. . . . for me I'd rather error on the side of safety.
How is it safer? The joint is now process sensitive to the installer's
"feel" for tightening. You've substituted a threaded fastener with a
definite propensity for loosening under vibration while quality
fast-ons dig in deeper under vibration. You have to be extra careful
not to subject the fuseholder's tabs to mate-up forces (twisting) it
was not designed for . . . if you use metal locknuts, the risk of
damage is still greater.
>Also folks might give AMP a call at 1-800-522-6752 take Que #2 for techical
>service and ask them if the two AMP part #s shown above are spec'd by AMP to
>use on aircraft and then ask them if their rings # 8-36150-1 and # 8-320619-1
> . . .
A tech rep for any company would be foolish to either recommend or
discourage the use of his/her product on "aircraft" or any other
non-quantified application. They should be prepared to offer test
results that qualify their product to some specification but it's
ALWAYS up to the system designer to determine if the intended
use falls inside those criteria. The terms "aircraft quality" and
"suitable for use on aircraft" are meaningless and fraught with
hazard for those who have faith in them.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Bill,
You may find out that the twist is in the same direction for the other wing.
If you supported both wings the way you described, I think they would have
twisted with the trailing edge high, ie. with washout. Its okay to expect
some luck in your building.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Johnston
Jr.
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 1:30 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Warped Wing
Thanks Dennis, I've got to recheck the left wing yet, but think the twist
will be a washin for the left and a washout for the right wing, I think I
can correct this partially when I attach the wings to the cage, also I'm
sure the twist is gradual throughout the wing, what happened was the inboard
steel rib was resting on the one sawhorse and i had the outboard resting
only on the main and trailing edge spar tubes, this gave me the 0.5 inch
twist. I think I can attach both wings in such a way where the washout and
washin will be maybe .25 inches on either wing, I should be ok, maybe having
to add an aileron trim tab. What do you guys think? I'll have to get the
left wing down off the wall to measure the exact amount of twist but I built
it using the same setup so the twist should be opposite what I'm seeing with
the right wing.
---
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
On Sun, 20 Feb 2000 12:52:48 Dennis Souder wrote:
>
>Bill,
>
>I am not sure I read all there was to read on your wings. The one
questions
>that I still have unanswered in my mind is: do both wings have the same
>direction and magnitude of twist. You said that one was washed out - is
the
>other washed out too? If they are both washed out, then you are in much
>better shape than if one has wash-out and the other wash-in. Then you need
>to determine if they are of the same magnitude. If they are are washed out
>the same direction and magnitude, then you will fly just fine. Perhaps
your
>stall will be incremintally higher, but that will be acceptable.
>
>You will not correct a twisted wing induced roll by adjusting your
ailerons.
>If you try to adjust things with your ailerons, you will only change one
>thing: the neutral position of your control stick. The ailerons will not
>change the roll of the aircraft unless you put pressure on them to do so.
>Now an aileron trim tab is another story, it will apply that pressure for
>you. They question then becomes, is the amount of pressure needed
>appropriate for the trim tab to handle or should other means be sought.
>
>If you have, for instance, 1/2" twist measured at the outboard trailing
edge
>on wing wing only, then that is quite a bit. It might be corrected with a
>trim tab, but that might not be the best way to do it. Probably the angle
>of attachment should be adjusted slightly and then a trim tab could be used
>to fine tune it afterwards.
>
>It also might be instructive to examine the wings carefully and determine
>exactly where the twist is. If it is uniformily distributed along the
>length of the wing that is one situation. But if it is twisted only from
>the H-section toward the outboard end of the wing, then perhaps you may
>consider drilling out the flange rivets and untwisting the outboard section
>of wing. If you do this, the outboard wing rib, for instance, will have to
>be twisted more than the ribs closer to the H-section; and this presents
>more a problem of the holes being offset after the twisting. This has been
>done in the past and the builders have drilled the 1/8" to 5/32" dia. This
>allows for a correcting a suprising amount of misalignment of the holes.
>
>A coule options you may wish to consider - good luck.
>Dennis
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Johnston
>Jr.
>Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 11:15 AM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Warped Wing
>
>
>I just don't wanna tear these two wings apart at this stage of the game, I
>used two sawhorses that were nice and level, with the weights, just that
the
>assembly manuel didn't make it all too clear where to rest the outboard end
>of the wing. In hindsight, I know what to do and know why the twist is
>there, in looking at the amount of twist, can't see where it will be too
>bad, and there has to be a way to compensate it either in adjusting the
drag
>stut, lift strut, or even putting tabs on the ailerons if need be. At this
>point my mind is being put at ease a bit and I'm not sick about it like I
>have been for the past couple weeks thinkin bout all this!! Thanks guys
for
>the help and for the upcoming assistance! Sure glad you folks are out
>there!
>---
>Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
>
>
>On Sat, 19 Feb 2000 23:17:50 John Hauck wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Not trying to 2nd guess Homer, John. Just trying to help someone feel
>>> their way thru a problem. Lar.
>>
>>Lar and Gang:
>>
>>Sorry. Was not my intent to make a correction. Only
>>thinking out loud. Wasn't the way I intended the last msg
>>to be interpreted.
>>
>>It is easy to write something one way that is interpreted
>>another way by the recepients. I knew you were trying to
>>ease a builders mind. I remember how disheartened I was the
>>first wing I built that was about 1/8 inch out. Could not
>>believe it could happen. My saw horses were parallel,
>>weighted down, solid as a rock. I thin I built the second
>>wing the same way. Still didn't make any difference how it
>>flew.
>>
>>My brother Jim welded up saw horses, then bolted them to the
>>floor. Next time I build wings, that is the way I am going
>>to do it.
>>
>>Again, my appologies if you took my msg the wrong way.
>>
>>john h
>>
>>
>
>
>HotBot - Search smarter.
>http://www.hotbot.com
>
>
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
If you have a Jabiru engine you will find the carbruater is held on to
the engine simular to the Rotax, but it has only one clamp and will not
hold. When you safety wire it,not only must you hold it in, but the
wires must be put in such away as to hold it up. This is the one fault I
find with this engine. Its not a good set up and with a pusher its hard
to reach to do anything. I didn't have mind safety wired properly and it
fell right out of the rubber adapter. I was trying to start it to check
the engine after setting the valves when I found it. I will be putting
my safety wires on much differently if I have to swing from a rope over
that wing.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hand Held Radio's |
| From: | Bruce E Harrison <bharrison(at)juno.com> |
Where do you fly from in the Charlotte area? I used to fly from the JAARS
airfield in Waxhaw and regularly flew into Monroe, Goose Creek,
Lancaster, Rock Hill, and York. I just spent the weekend in Waxhaw, but
now I live in Columbia, SC and am starting my second FS project. See
bruceharrison.homestead.com for past and present. Also, send me a pic if
you can that I can put on my "color schemes" page. Thanks.
>
> I could use some advice on my handheld.
>
> I have a Garmin 190, GPS/navcom. Have had trouble with good
> reception and
> almost no transmission results (lots of noise). I have installed a
> new
> antenna, an aluminium foil ground plane (suggested by local
> ultralighters),
> and have received my best results after installing resistor plugs
> and low
> resistor metal caps for the plugs.
>
> Now I can hear real well and pick up transmissions from about 75
> miles away.
>
> But yesterday I was just 5 miles from a control tower and they said
> that my
> transmission was weak. When I press the PTT switch I get a lot of
> noise.
>
> Any ideas on how to beef up my transmission?? I do not have a power
> hook-up
> so I use the internal battery of the radio.
>
> Jim in Charlotte, NC
> Mark 111, Rotax 503
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Warp drive prop. |
Kris:
My Warp Drive prop was reccommended by Pete at Great Lakes Light
Planes. gllplanes(at)aol.com. He had a Titan Tornado, sells them, is
President of the flying club with several more Titans. He gets 120 out
of his Titan. He is a Warp Drive man and sells them also. He gave me
first class treatment. Even came to Arkansas and mounted my engine with
me on a weekend. You ought to talk to him. He has the experience with
the prop on Titans and its not just talk. He will ;answer your E-mail. I
have a phone number somewhere here if I can find it.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork,Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Kris: I forgot to mention that Petes Titan has a Jabiru engine, he sells
them also. Warp Drive prop. Goes like a bandit.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | re: Grounding to airframe . . . |
>--> Zenith-List message posted by: "tom tiedman"
>
>I'm wondering if a product like 'alnox' could be used between the electrical
>terminal and the aircraft structure to eliminate corrosion. We use it in
>electrical construction all the time where aluminum conductors terminate at
>lugs in various panels. It is a dark grey electrically conductive paste,
>that we spread all over the bare aluminum end of the conductor before
>inserting it into the lug (lugs may or may not be made of aluminum). It
>keeps the aluminum wire and the lugs from corroding. You could smear a dab
>of it on the side of the terminal that touches the aircraft structure and
>fasten down the terminal. Readily available at any electrical supply house
>worth its salt. I believe their is another brand of the same corrosion
>proofing paste known as 'noalox' available also if memory serves me
>correctly. Tom
It wouldn't hurt. Consider the following:
K
Ba
Sr
Ca
Na
Mg
A (Aluminum)
Mn
Z (Zinc)
Cr
Fe (Iron)
Cd (Cadmium)
Co
Ni (Nickle)
Sn (Tin)
Pb (Lead)
--H-- (Hydrogen)
Sb
As
Bi
Cu (Copper)
Hg (Mercury)
Ag (Silver)
Pd
Pt
Au (Gold)
This is a ranking of the elements in accordance with their
electromotive potential with respect to Hydrogen. The usefulness
of this table is to illustrate the tendency of two materials
to react in each other's presence while in metalic connection
(electrons can flow from one material to the other) and moisture
(atoms can become active in a liquid and combine with other
stuff - like oxygen and in essence rust).
The further apart the two materials are in the table
the more antagonistic they are to each other. Note that aluminum
is quite far removed from copper. Note further that tin is
between the two antagonists. By coating the copper terminals
with a layer of tin plating, the tin provides a buffer
between the aluminum and copper to mitigate their anti-social
tendencies.
"Noalox" and similar products provide some moisture barrier
in the vicinity of a dissimilar metals joint to reduce the
rate of corrosion.
A terminal bolted down to the airframe would probably benefit
from a variety of moisture barriers such as silicon grease,
Vasaline, Noalox or even a coat of paint. If you live in a
humid region of the country, especially coastal regions where
the moisture can contain salt, a little judicious moisture
proofing wouldn't hurt.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
>>"Coggins, Josh, NNO" wrote:
>> What kind of luck have you all had with the Icom and Yaesu brands?
>> Josh
>> Firestar I
>> Prescott, AZ
>Josh, I have been using the little Icom IC-A4 for about two years now
>and found it to be a great little talker. Controls are harder to use at
>first than the Yeasu. I have dropped it many times in the grass. Lost
>the little rubber plug covers twice. Icom booth people at Sun & Fun will
>replace them for free! Talks just as well I have found, and costs a
>little less. Mine was $275.00 at S&F 2 years ago from Tropic Aero booth.
>Once you get used to the controls, and how to use it, I would rate it an
>8 on a 10 scale. Also, usage has been with a Lazair, with no resister
>anything and a Pro-com helmet with the Expensive icom push to talk
>adapter.
I considered the IC-A4 and the Yaesu 6-key, and eventually bought the
Yaesu. The price was lower at the time but the real feature that sold it
was that the internal Ni-cad battery will charge from the external 12volt
input while the radio is operating on the Yaesu. According to the
literature I have read, this does not work on the IC-A4, although it does
work on the more expensive ICOMs. This feature was important to me, so the
radio battery can charge while the plane is running (no battery in plane),
and I can operate it while flying or later on the ground on its battery.
The alternative is to charge the battery at home at night when not using
the radio, and this should work OK too.
The Yaesu has turned out to be a great little radio and recently a few
other flying buddies bought them too. One of my buddies (Brian) read the
whole owner's manual in one evening and came to the airpark to teach me all
about the radio I'd owned for a year. I never thought of reading the
manual. He was especially impressed with the scan and dual watch features.
Also, be sure to buy a radio that receives all the weather channels. I
can't remember if the IC-A4 does or not. The Yaesu does, and comes with
the headphone adaptor (Icom wants another 75 bucks for this part alone).
Buy a 14 dollar push to talk from Aircraft Spruce and you're in business.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: re: Grounding to airframe . . . |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
>
> >--> Zenith-List message posted by: "tom tiedman"
> >
> >I'm wondering if a product like 'alnox' could be used between the electrical
> >terminal and the aircraft structure to eliminate corrosion. We use it in
> >electrical construction all the time where aluminum conductors terminate at
> >lugs in various panels. It is a dark grey electrically conductive paste,
> >that we spread all over the bare aluminum end of the conductor before
> >inserting it into the lug (lugs may or may not be made of aluminum). It
> >keeps the aluminum wire and the lugs from corroding. You could smear a dab
> >of it on the side of the terminal that touches the aircraft structure and
> >fasten down the terminal. Readily available at any electrical supply house
> >worth its salt. I believe their is another brand of the same corrosion
> >proofing paste known as 'noalox' available also if memory serves me
> >correctly. Tom
>
> It wouldn't hurt. Consider the following:
>
> K
> Ba
> Sr
> Ca
> Na
> Mg
> A (Aluminum)
> Mn
> Z (Zinc)
> Cr
> Fe (Iron)
> Cd (Cadmium)
> Co
> Ni (Nickle)
> Sn (Tin)
> Pb (Lead)
> --H-- (Hydrogen)
> Sb
> As
> Bi
> Cu (Copper)
> Hg (Mercury)
> Ag (Silver)
> Pd
> Pt
> Au (Gold)
>
> This is a ranking of the elements in accordance with their
> electromotive potential with respect to Hydrogen. The usefulness
> of this table is to illustrate the tendency of two materials
> to react in each other's presence while in metalic connection
> (electrons can flow from one material to the other) and moisture
> (atoms can become active in a liquid and combine with other
> stuff - like oxygen and in essence rust).
>
> The further apart the two materials are in the table
> the more antagonistic they are to each other. Note that aluminum
> is quite far removed from copper. Note further that tin is
> between the two antagonists. By coating the copper terminals
> with a layer of tin plating, the tin provides a buffer
> between the aluminum and copper to mitigate their anti-social
> tendencies.
>
> "Noalox" and similar products provide some moisture barrier
> in the vicinity of a dissimilar metals joint to reduce the
> rate of corrosion.
>
> A terminal bolted down to the airframe would probably benefit
> from a variety of moisture barriers such as silicon grease,
> Vasaline, Noalox or even a coat of paint. If you live in a
> humid region of the country, especially coastal regions where
> the moisture can contain salt, a little judicious moisture
> proofing wouldn't hurt.
>
> Bob . . .
Good information, Bob. Been a long time since I have seen the
eletromotive series. However, one small typo. Aluminum is "Al", not
"A".
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Noel Bouchard <noelbou(at)CAM.ORG> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/20/00 |
I tought the list readers might enjoy the following:
Ken Tager offers this:
"Squawks" are problems noted by U. S. Air Force pilots and
left for maintenance crews to fix before the next flight.
Here are some actual maintenance complaints logged by those
Air Force pilots and the replies from the maintenance
crews.
(P) = Problem (complaint)
(S) = Solution (reply)
(P) Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
(S) Evidence removed.
(P) DME volume unbelievably loud.
(S) Volume set to more believable level.
(P) Autopilot in altitude hold mode produces a 200fpm
descent.
(S) Cannot reproduce problems on ground.
(P) IFF inoperative.
(S) IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.
(P) Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
(S) That's what they're there for.
(P) Number three engine missing.
(S) Engine found on right wing after brief search.
(P) Aircraft handles funny.
(S) Aircraft warned to straighten up, "fly right," and be
serious.
(P) Left inside main tire almost needs replacement.
(S) Almost replaced left inside main tire.
(P) Test flight OK, except auto land very rough.
(S) Auto land not installed on this aircraft.
(P) # 2 propeller seeping prop fluid.
(S) #2 propeller seepage normal 1, #3, and #4 propellers
lack normal seepage.
(P) Something loose in cockpit.
(S) Something tightened in cockpit.
(P) Dead bugs on windshield.
(S) Live bugs on order.
(P) Target Radar hums.
(S) Reprogrammed Target Radar with the words.
Have a nice Day !
Noel
Twinstar Mark II
name="noelbou.vcf"
filename="noelbou.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Bouchard;Nol
tel;work:(514) 527-1201
url:www.cam.org/~noelbou
org:TELE DATA Inc.
adr:;;4600 de Lanaudiere;Montreal;Quebec;H2J 3P7;Canada
version:2.1
email;internet:noel(at)teledata.qc.ca
title:Pres.
fn:Nol Bouchard
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Grounding to airframe . . . |
>
>Good information, Bob. Been a long time since I have seen the
>eletromotive series. However, one small typo. Aluminum is "Al", not
>"A".
>
>gil leiter
>MAPLEWOOD, MN
Your right. It started out as Al (the table came from a
website) and when I was adding the names after selected
materials, it appears I whacked the "l" . . . thanks for
the heads up.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How To convert Fuse Blocks to RINGS |
>In a message dated 2/20/00 2:23:40 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
>
>> My hero C.F. Kettering said, "You can know a lot
>> and yet understand nothing."
>
>Bob: I gave up trying to know everything along time ago, it was way to much
>work...how about you?
>
>Regards,
>John
John, My apologies sir if you thought the Kettering quote was
directed at you. My intention was to point out the virtual
ocean of knowledge in which we are immersed. There are thousands
of our fellow citizens who dip from this ocean and splash it
around, not the least of which are "certified mechanics" and
"degreed engineers".
I used to cross paths with a local expert witness in the accident
invesigation business who was a driving school instructor after
having retired from 20+ years as a highway patrolman. His credential
for getting on the witness stand was for having "seen and investigated
tons of accidents." We used to call him "20g Stackley" . . . no
matter how the vehicles behaved or the circumstances of the
collision, an acceleration value of 20g's showed up in the calculations
for EVERY case. He was not only incompetent but could be shown to
lie a lot too . . . none-the-less he enjoyed a pretty successful
career in local courts. We can find plenty of grey-beards roaming
the confines of our airports who are no better at understanding
the physics of what they do than trooper Stackley was.
My fondest wishes for these discussions is to discover the physics
of our art and share the knowledge with the most ludid explanations
we can devise. I was not shucking rocks at you my friend and I truly
regret that it came across in that manner.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: handheld radios |
John,
Just picked up the 6 button Yaesu, and got over 12 miles range with it on a
test run. I like the sound & clarity, and am planning to use it in the MIII.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Coggins, Josh, NNO <joshcoggins(at)att.com>
Date: Friday, February 18, 2000 9:56 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: handheld radios
>
>Fellow Kolbers,
> I just moved my Firestar I to a controlled airport and need to buy
a
>radio to be able to fly. My dad uses a KX99 and has had good luck with it
>so far. But I like the Icom and Yaesu radios looks better. I am leaning
>more towards the Yaesu because of it's small size. What kind of luck have
>you all had with the Icom and Yaesu brands? I don't know anyone in my area
>that has used a Yaesu, so I have no knowledge to draw from. Any response
is
>appreciated.
>
>BTW I am eagerly waiting on the results of the Powerfin prop testing, as I
>may be in the market for a new prop soon.
>
>Josh
>Firestar I
>Prescott, AZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb Web Page Update |
Morning Gang:
Got some updates to the Kolb Aircraft Web Site:
Dana posted the full article I wrote for the Experimenter
Mag about my 1994 flight. It is at:
http://www.tnkolbaircraft.com/hauck94.htm
Also have a web page to buy commemorative patches for the
flight to help out this old retired Army guy who has been
living off what Uncle Sucker has been giving him for
retirement pay for the last 20 years:
https://www.kih.net/kolb/kolbgear/patch.htm
If you haven't read the Experimenter article yet, hope you
enjoy. There are also some color pics I made during that
flight.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing trailing edge |
Jeremy,
Had the same question - called Kolb & said that they made the change to the
heavier wall thickness mostly for hangar rash reasons, and that either
thickness is acceptable.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Sunday, February 20, 2000 7:22 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Wing trailing edge
>
>I have a odd question. My prints from Kolb have a hand written change on
>the print that changed the wall thickness of the trailing edge tube from
>.028 to .035. (It is a 1.125" tube obviously) Now this is a half hearted
>question cause all I have is .035 left in the tubing rack but I don't
>remember making the change and oddly enough after all the hours of looking
>at the prints , I don't ever remember seeing it!?!? I have the worst
memory
>in the world but I don't remember making the change so I'm assuming that
>"Old" Kolb did it before they sent me my prints. Anyway I want to attach
it
>tomorrow so unless I hear otherwise I will go for it. Anyone got a second
>to look at your own prints and tell what they give for wall thickness???
>This is a MARK 3
>
>Thanks a ton.
>Jeremy Casey
>jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Re: help on handheld |
>I could use some advice on my handheld.
>I have a Garmin 190, GPS/navcom. Have had trouble with good reception and
>almost no transmission results (lots of noise). I have installed a new
>antenna, an aluminium foil ground plane (suggested by local
ultralighters),
>and have received my best results after installing resistor plugs and low
>resistor metal caps for the plugs.
>Now I can hear real well and pick up transmissions from about 75 miles
away.
>But yesterday I was just 5 miles from a control tower and they said that
my
>transmission was weak. When I press the PTT switch I get a lot of noise.
First, check your radio-to-antenna cable continuity and SWR. This will
make you radio last longer and improve performance in general. Trim the
antenna for lowest SWR, or best compromise across the band. Do you have a
good ground connection from the shield of the coax to the aluminum foil gnd
plane? This is hard to do with real thin aluminum. It should also be
grounded to the plane here. Next, suspect your connection to the radio
from the headset you're using. Troubleshoot this by setting on the ground,
engine off, try communication with a friend with radio, by speaking
directly into the handheld and pressing the push to talk on the handheld,
only connecting to the SWR-checked antenna on the plane. If this gives
good results, your problem could be in the interface of your headset/mic to
the radio. I have seen some junk in this area. I assume you are using the
Garmin headset adaptor cord to connect to the headset. If not, you're in
uncharted waters and the sharks are going to eat your radio. If you are
using the correct Garmin cable, next I would suspect the headset. Please
don't tell us your using Comtronics. Borrow someone's headset with
standard connectors and try it. You must also be using a remote PTT, to
trigger the mic in the headset. If you have an intercomm installed in
between there, be sure you are using a remote PTT button plugged between
the intercomm and the radio, in the mic circuit. You should know this
already but, if you use a headset adaptor cord and external PTT button, the
headset mic is the active one , not the mic in the handheld anymore. Try
some of these things, note us back and this time give us a complete list of
what you're trying to make work, and we'll have some fun getting it working
well for you.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
I have a nice MK3 low time 582 for sale with all options.If interested call
302-422-3741,I am located in Delaware.
Thanks,
Richard Webb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Samuel Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
Good afternoon friends and other listers.
Being new to the list I thought I would introduce myself. My name is Sam
Cox and I live in Saginaw which is a suburb of Ft. Worth, TX. I'm the
president of the D/FW Lite Flyers a 95 member organization affiliated with
ASC / EAA UL / USUA. I'm the USUA Asst. Representive for region 5. I'm the
co-organizer of the Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering which has grown into
being one of three USUA siginature events.
I currently own a Starflight TX-1000 (a MX type) but because of health
problems haven't flown much in the last two years. I think,and hope, that
the problems have been solved and I'm back on the road to health. The
Starflight with it's 50 mph cruise is fun to fly but isn't going to stay up
with my buddies in Kolbs and Hurricanes. Not being a normal size pilot I
will need lots of lift capasity in my second plane. With that in mind I
have been thinking of the Perceptor Super Pup or the Firestar II built as a
single seater. At the present time I'm leaning heavily in the direction of
the Firestar thus my intrest in this list.
Of course not everything goes smooth, my wife (who said she wouldn't fly
in anything but an airliner) now indicates a "willingness" to fly in a
Cessna 172. Just in case she desides to start flying with me I may
consider a Spacewalker II Sportplane.
John Hauck tells me ther is a member of this list who has built one and I
would like to communicate with him/her off list.
The Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering is a great event in a fantastic
location. Were very proud of what we have accomplished so expect a few
"Ya'll come see us in Texas" posts from time to time. :-)
Sam Cox
Saginaw, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Bill,
If the wing warp is pretty different between the two wings,
*especially* if it is wash-in on one and washout on the other, I would
lean heavily (pun?) toward fixing it now. I am of the persnickity type
tho, so realize that is my perspective. A little math will show that
this is almost completely correctable by drilling out the flange to
main spar (MS) rivets and replacing with 5/32" rivets.
Your Trailing Edge (TE) is 0.5" down. Here's the deal: I just made a
quick approx measurement of MS to TE, center to center. It is 32".
Center of MS to MS tube wall is 2.5". This is a trig, or more simply,
a ratio problem. You need to figure out what movement at the MS tube
wall is needed to move the TE up or down 0.5".
0.5 / 32 = X / 2.5, find X
X = .039"
If you could drill out the 1/8 and replace with 5/32, AND are able to
pressure the drill so that you effectively move the hole in the right
direction (instead of just make it bigger), you need only move those
rivet holes 0.039".
The diameter difference in 5/32 and 1/8 is
0.1563 - 0.125 = .0313
So, you don't quite have as much as needed, and it will be a little
awkward to really move the 1/8" hole instead of just enlarging it.
But, I think it is very do-able. Even if you only got the 0.313
movement at the spar, that translates to correcting the 0.5" error by
0.4" (working the above ratio again). ALSO, this is worst case only at
the outer end of the wing, and the problem is less as you move inward.
I would go further to suggest that enlarging the holes to .039 on the
outer rib flange is probably not a compromise to spar structure, so the
problem may be completely correctable. (Check on maximum allowable
hole diam for 5/32 rivets and feel free to check other's thoughts on
going to .039 holes. ...I would not do this except on outer ribs)
Anyway, I hope this helps. Some time spent now correcting it will give
you a lot less to fret about while you invest all the upcoming hours
covering, and wonder if it might fly crooked or compromised with trim
tabs here and there. That's my feeling anyway.
-Ben Ransom
--- Dennis Souder wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> You may find out that the twist is in the same direction for the
> other wing.
> If you supported both wings the way you described, I think they would
> have
> twisted with the trailing edge high, ie. with washout. Its okay to
> expect
> some luck in your building.
>
> Dennis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill
> Johnston
> Jr.
> Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 1:30 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Warped Wing
>
>
>
>
> Thanks Dennis, I've got to recheck the left wing yet, but think the
> twist
> will be a washin for the left and a washout for the right wing, I
> think I
> can correct this partially when I attach the wings to the cage, also
> I'm
> sure the twist is gradual throughout the wing, what happened was the
> inboard
> steel rib was resting on the one sawhorse and i had the outboard
> resting
> only on the main and trailing edge spar tubes, this gave me the 0.5
> inch
> twist. I think I can attach both wings in such a way where the
> washout and
> washin will be maybe .25 inches on either wing, I should be ok, maybe
> having
> to add an aileron trim tab. What do you guys think? I'll have to
> get the
> left wing down off the wall to measure the exact amount of twist but
> I built
> it using the same setup so the twist should be opposite what I'm
> seeing with
> the right wing.
> ---
> Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
>
>
> On Sun, 20 Feb 2000 12:52:48 Dennis Souder wrote:
> >
> >Bill,
> >
> >I am not sure I read all there was to read on your wings. The one
> questions
> >that I still have unanswered in my mind is: do both wings have the
> same
> >direction and magnitude of twist. You said that one was washed out
> - is
> the
> >other washed out too? If they are both washed out, then you are in
> much
> >better shape than if one has wash-out and the other wash-in. Then
> you need
> >to determine if they are of the same magnitude. If they are are
> washed out
> >the same direction and magnitude, then you will fly just fine.
> Perhaps
> your
> >stall will be incremintally higher, but that will be acceptable.
> >
> >You will not correct a twisted wing induced roll by adjusting your
> ailerons.
> >If you try to adjust things with your ailerons, you will only change
> one
> >thing: the neutral position of your control stick. The ailerons
> will not
> >change the roll of the aircraft unless you put pressure on them to
> do so.
> >Now an aileron trim tab is another story, it will apply that
> pressure for
> >you. They question then becomes, is the amount of pressure needed
> >appropriate for the trim tab to handle or should other means be
> sought.
> >
> >If you have, for instance, 1/2" twist measured at the outboard
> trailing
> edge
> >on wing wing only, then that is quite a bit. It might be corrected
> with a
> >trim tab, but that might not be the best way to do it. Probably the
> angle
> >of attachment should be adjusted slightly and then a trim tab could
> be used
> >to fine tune it afterwards.
> >
> >It also might be instructive to examine the wings carefully and
> determine
> >exactly where the twist is. If it is uniformily distributed along
> the
> >length of the wing that is one situation. But if it is twisted only
> from
> >the H-section toward the outboard end of the wing, then perhaps you
> may
> >consider drilling out the flange rivets and untwisting the outboard
> section
> >of wing. If you do this, the outboard wing rib, for instance, will
> have to
> >be twisted more than the ribs closer to the H-section; and this
> presents
> >more a problem of the holes being offset after the twisting. This
> has been
> >done in the past and the builders have drilled the 1/8" to 5/32"
> dia. This
> >allows for a correcting a suprising amount of misalignment of the
> holes.
> >
> >A coule options you may wish to consider - good luck.
> >Dennis
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill
> Johnston
> >Jr.
> >Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 11:15 AM
> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Warped Wing
> >
> >
>
> >
> >I just don't wanna tear these two wings apart at this stage of the
> game, I
> >used two sawhorses that were nice and level, with the weights, just
> that
> the
> >assembly manuel didn't make it all too clear where to rest the
> outboard end
> >of the wing. In hindsight, I know what to do and know why the twist
> is
> >there, in looking at the amount of twist, can't see where it will be
> too
> >bad, and there has to be a way to compensate it either in adjusting
> the
> drag
> >stut, lift strut, or even putting tabs on the ailerons if need be.
> At this
> >point my mind is being put at ease a bit and I'm not sick about it
> like I
> >have been for the past couple weeks thinkin bout all this!! Thanks
> guys
> for
> >the help and for the upcoming assistance! Sure glad you folks are
> out
> >there!
> >---
> >Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
> >
> >
> >On Sat, 19 Feb 2000 23:17:50 John Hauck wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>> Not trying to 2nd guess Homer, John. Just trying to help
> someone feel
> >>> their way thru a problem. Lar.
> >>
> >>Lar and Gang:
> >>
> >>Sorry. Was not my intent to make a correction. Only
> >>thinking out loud. Wasn't the way I intended the last msg
> >>to be interpreted.
> >>
> >>It is easy to write something one way that is interpreted
> >>another way by the recepients. I knew you were trying to
> >>ease a builders mind. I remember how disheartened I was the
> >>first wing I built that was about 1/8 inch out. Could not
> >>believe it could happen. My saw horses were parallel,
> >>weighted down, solid as a rock. I thin I built the second
> >>wing the same way. Still didn't make any difference how it
> >>flew.
> >>
> >>My brother Jim welded up saw horses, then bolted them to the
> >>floor. Next time I build wings, that is the way I am going
> >>to do it.
> >>
> >>Again, my appologies if you took my msg the wrong way.
> >>
> >>john h
> >>
> >>
> >
>
=== message truncated ===
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb Gearheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk 3 For Sale |
I also have a mkIII for sale . I live in Ky. 9k. Has 532 engine. Herb
Richard C Webb wrote:
>
> I have a nice MK3 low time 582 for sale with all options.If interested call
> 302-422-3741,I am located in Delaware.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Richard Webb
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good afternoon |
For new member of the list and old friend--Sam
Just remember the real Kolb Country is Lower Alabama. Out of the goodness of
our hearts we allow John H and Ted C-also contributors to consider
themselves in LA.Please remember that especially when u wear the world
renown Southern Flyers cap.in Texas!
.Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com> |
I still have to check the left wing out to see where the twist is, If I find washout
in both wings, that is twist in same direction, I may just leave things
alone, If the twist is opposite, that is, washout in one and washin with the other,
I'm gonna fix the wings by drilling out the flange rivets on the outer ribs
and make the correction. Thanks for all the input on this guys/gals, I was
really feelin pretty sick here for bout a week or two thinkin I was gonna have
to tear both these wings completely apart and replace the main spars!! Not
a very nice thought to say the least!! Anybody out there got some 5/32 rivets
they wanna unload? Might be needin some here in the next couple days!
Thanks again and you folks, stay outta the trees!
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
On Mon, 21 Feb 2000 12:56:17 Ben Ransom wrote:
>
>Bill,
>If the wing warp is pretty different between the two wings,
>*especially* if it is wash-in on one and washout on the other, I would
>lean heavily (pun?) toward fixing it now. I am of the persnickity type
>tho, so realize that is my perspective. A little math will show that
>this is almost completely correctable by drilling out the flange to
>main spar (MS) rivets and replacing with 5/32" rivets.
>
>Your Trailing Edge (TE) is 0.5" down. Here's the deal: I just made a
>quick approx measurement of MS to TE, center to center. It is 32".
>Center of MS to MS tube wall is 2.5". This is a trig, or more simply,
>a ratio problem. You need to figure out what movement at the MS tube
>wall is needed to move the TE up or down 0.5".
>
> 0.5 / 32 = X / 2.5, find X
>
> X = .039"
>
>If you could drill out the 1/8 and replace with 5/32, AND are able to
>pressure the drill so that you effectively move the hole in the right
>direction (instead of just make it bigger), you need only move those
>rivet holes 0.039".
>
>The diameter difference in 5/32 and 1/8 is
> 0.1563 - 0.125 = .0313
>So, you don't quite have as much as needed, and it will be a little
>awkward to really move the 1/8" hole instead of just enlarging it.
>But, I think it is very do-able. Even if you only got the 0.313
>movement at the spar, that translates to correcting the 0.5" error by
>0.4" (working the above ratio again). ALSO, this is worst case only at
>the outer end of the wing, and the problem is less as you move inward.
>I would go further to suggest that enlarging the holes to .039 on the
>outer rib flange is probably not a compromise to spar structure, so the
>problem may be completely correctable. (Check on maximum allowable
>hole diam for 5/32 rivets and feel free to check other's thoughts on
>going to .039 holes. ...I would not do this except on outer ribs)
>
>Anyway, I hope this helps. Some time spent now correcting it will give
>you a lot less to fret about while you invest all the upcoming hours
>covering, and wonder if it might fly crooked or compromised with trim
>tabs here and there. That's my feeling anyway.
>-Ben Ransom
>
>
>--- Dennis Souder wrote:
>>
>> Bill,
>>
>> You may find out that the twist is in the same direction for the
>> other wing.
>> If you supported both wings the way you described, I think they would
>> have
>> twisted with the trailing edge high, ie. with washout. Its okay to
>> expect
>> some luck in your building.
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill
>> Johnston
>> Jr.
>> Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 1:30 PM
>> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Warped Wing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks Dennis, I've got to recheck the left wing yet, but think the
>> twist
>> will be a washin for the left and a washout for the right wing, I
>> think I
>> can correct this partially when I attach the wings to the cage, also
>> I'm
>> sure the twist is gradual throughout the wing, what happened was the
>> inboard
>> steel rib was resting on the one sawhorse and i had the outboard
>> resting
>> only on the main and trailing edge spar tubes, this gave me the 0.5
>> inch
>> twist. I think I can attach both wings in such a way where the
>> washout and
>> washin will be maybe .25 inches on either wing, I should be ok, maybe
>> having
>> to add an aileron trim tab. What do you guys think? I'll have to
>> get the
>> left wing down off the wall to measure the exact amount of twist but
>> I built
>> it using the same setup so the twist should be opposite what I'm
>> seeing with
>> the right wing.
>> ---
>> Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
>>
>>
>> On Sun, 20 Feb 2000 12:52:48 Dennis Souder wrote:
>> >
>> >Bill,
>> >
>> >I am not sure I read all there was to read on your wings. The one
>> questions
>> >that I still have unanswered in my mind is: do both wings have the
>> same
>> >direction and magnitude of twist. You said that one was washed out
>> - is
>> the
>> >other washed out too? If they are both washed out, then you are in
>> much
>> >better shape than if one has wash-out and the other wash-in. Then
>> you need
>> >to determine if they are of the same magnitude. If they are are
>> washed out
>> >the same direction and magnitude, then you will fly just fine.
>> Perhaps
>> your
>> >stall will be incremintally higher, but that will be acceptable.
>> >
>> >You will not correct a twisted wing induced roll by adjusting your
>> ailerons.
>> >If you try to adjust things with your ailerons, you will only change
>> one
>> >thing: the neutral position of your control stick. The ailerons
>> will not
>> >change the roll of the aircraft unless you put pressure on them to
>> do so.
>> >Now an aileron trim tab is another story, it will apply that
>> pressure for
>> >you. They question then becomes, is the amount of pressure needed
>> >appropriate for the trim tab to handle or should other means be
>> sought.
>> >
>> >If you have, for instance, 1/2" twist measured at the outboard
>> trailing
>> edge
>> >on wing wing only, then that is quite a bit. It might be corrected
>> with a
>> >trim tab, but that might not be the best way to do it. Probably the
>> angle
>> >of attachment should be adjusted slightly and then a trim tab could
>> be used
>> >to fine tune it afterwards.
>> >
>> >It also might be instructive to examine the wings carefully and
>> determine
>> >exactly where the twist is. If it is uniformily distributed along
>> the
>> >length of the wing that is one situation. But if it is twisted only
>> from
>> >the H-section toward the outboard end of the wing, then perhaps you
>> may
>> >consider drilling out the flange rivets and untwisting the outboard
>> section
>> >of wing. If you do this, the outboard wing rib, for instance, will
>> have to
>> >be twisted more than the ribs closer to the H-section; and this
>> presents
>> >more a problem of the holes being offset after the twisting. This
>> has been
>> >done in the past and the builders have drilled the 1/8" to 5/32"
>> dia. This
>> >allows for a correcting a suprising amount of misalignment of the
>> holes.
>> >
>> >A coule options you may wish to consider - good luck.
>> >Dennis
>> >
>> >
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> >[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill
>> Johnston
>> >Jr.
>> >Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 11:15 AM
>> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>> >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Warped Wing
>> >
>> >
>>
>> >
>> >I just don't wanna tear these two wings apart at this stage of the
>> game, I
>> >used two sawhorses that were nice and level, with the weights, just
>> that
>> the
>> >assembly manuel didn't make it all too clear where to rest the
>> outboard end
>> >of the wing. In hindsight, I know what to do and know why the twist
>> is
>> >there, in looking at the amount of twist, can't see where it will be
>> too
>> >bad, and there has to be a way to compensate it either in adjusting
>> the
>> drag
>> >stut, lift strut, or even putting tabs on the ailerons if need be.
>> At this
>> >point my mind is being put at ease a bit and I'm not sick about it
>> like I
>> >have been for the past couple weeks thinkin bout all this!! Thanks
>> guys
>> for
>> >the help and for the upcoming assistance! Sure glad you folks are
>> out
>> >there!
>> >---
>> >Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
>> >
>> >
>> >On Sat, 19 Feb 2000 23:17:50 John Hauck wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>> Not trying to 2nd guess Homer, John. Just trying to help
>> someone feel
>> >>> their way thru a problem. Lar.
>> >>
>> >>Lar and Gang:
>> >>
>> >>Sorry. Was not my intent to make a correction. Only
>> >>thinking out loud. Wasn't the way I intended the last msg
>> >>to be interpreted.
>> >>
>> >>It is easy to write something one way that is interpreted
>> >>another way by the recepients. I knew you were trying to
>> >>ease a builders mind. I remember how disheartened I was the
>> >>first wing I built that was about 1/8 inch out. Could not
>> >>believe it could happen. My saw horses were parallel,
>> >>weighted down, solid as a rock. I thin I built the second
>> >>wing the same way. Still didn't make any difference how it
>> >>flew.
>> >>
>> >>My brother Jim welded up saw horses, then bolted them to the
>> >>floor. Next time I build wings, that is the way I am going
>> >>to do it.
>> >>
>> >>Again, my appologies if you took my msg the wrong way.
>> >>
>> >>john h
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>>
>=== message truncated ===
>
>
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. R. Rodebush" <JRODEBUSH(at)cinci.rr.com> |
I recently received the wing kit for my Kolb Mark III. Unfortunately, both
the wing spars were flattened on one end due to shipping damage. I
contacted Kolb and they asked what I wanted to do. I said that since I live
in the Cincinnati area (about 2 1/2 hours from the factory), I would like to
bring them down in my van and exchange. It was a pleasant surprise to hear
"bring them down, no problem!" No hassles, no arguments about the damage,
no "it's FOB factory, you talk to the shipper".
The factory looks a lot different than it was at the fly in. It is
completely full of parts and fabrication equipment, well laid out and very
busy. Everyone was very helpful. Yes, Sue is as pretty as she sounds on
the phone.
Kolb appears to be serious about making the company a first class operation.
I don't mean to sound like their P.R. guy, but I had enough bad experiences
with another aircraft company to appreciate a good one.
"Rody" in Cinci
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Micah Froese" <mfroese(at)hotmail.com> |
In the latest issue of "Kitplanes", March 2000, there is an article on
covering. It involves a University study that compared 5 major covering
systems. A lot of extensive testing was done. Though it is rather dry
reading, it would be worth looking at before plunging into the covering
phase.
Micah Froese
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keeboman2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mk 3 For Sale |
Anyone interested
My buddy has a MarkIII w/low time, I think around 80hrs dual throttle, 503,
come w/a custom built aluminium trailer,perfect condition for around 16k.
Email if intereste.
Keebo
the guy w/the Rans S-12 but who loves Kolbs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keeboman2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mk 3 For Sale |
Kolbhomeys
I forgot to mention the plane is located in DFW, Texas. Welcome Sam Cox my
Texas brethren!
Keebo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/20/00 |
to look at your own prints and tell what they give for wall
thickness???
This is a MARK 3
Thanks a ton.
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
========================================
my plans used a 1.250 (1 1/4) .028
the 1.125 is 1 1/8 the change sounds like
a smaller diameter thicker wall.
the stiffens you loose by a smaller tubing is made up by the
thicker wall.
i am not sure exactly what the trade off is.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/20/00 |
Doug
I'm new, I'm wondering if its possible to put a tri gear on
a Mark111?
================
i saw one up in washington a year ago november.. the gent
had made his own gear sockets and braced them in somewhere
about half way between the stock sockets and the back of the
cage. also made the nose wheel supports under the rudder
petals. he shortened the tail boom aprox 2 ft. it
looked like it added quite a bit of weight. and what i hear
about the stock setup is that is really good the way it is.
course i havent been in the air yet. 45 days or so from
now i hope.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bil Ragsdale <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/20/00 |
I was faced with a similar problem when repairing my Mk III sn 213. The
prints call out 1.25 in X .028 wall leading and trailing edge spars.
During the repair process I discovered the airship was originally built
with .035 X 1.250 material. I called the factory and they simply told
me the material spec had been changed from the original .028 to the
current .035 wall thickness. I made all repair pieces from the .035 X
1.250 6061-T6 material.
Thanks, Bil
b young wrote:
>
> to look at your own prints and tell what they give for wall
> thickness???
> This is a MARK 3
>
> Thanks a ton.
> Jeremy Casey
> jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
> ========================================
> my plans used a 1.250 (1 1/4) .028
>
> the 1.125 is 1 1/8 the change sounds like
> a smaller diameter thicker wall.
> the stiffens you loose by a smaller tubing is made up by the
> thicker wall.
> i am not sure exactly what the trade off is.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bil Ragsdale <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Hirth 2706 with EIS |
I learned something interesting today. This thanks to a very pleasant
lady at EIS. I have run my engine now about 10 minutes total over a
period of about a week. Never was trusting enough to get over 3000 RPM
because I had no EGT or CHT indication. Both EGT's and CHT's would read
72 or 53 or some other number dependent on the OAT. The EIS lady told
me not to connect the black wire on the EIS to the black wire on the
thermocouple. After reversing the leads on all thermocouple connections
I now have EGT's and CHT's.
That's the good news. The bad news is that the wind was out of the
South at 20+. My runway is East West. I was afraid to even taxi out
to the runway to try a full power run up. Kept it tied down and never
got above 3200 RPM. EGT was about 1125 on 1 cyl. and 1150 on the other
at 3200 RPM. Will the numbers continue to climb as RPM increases? Do 2
cycles flatten out on EGT as the RPM continues to climb? Are those
numbers acceptable? I definitely do not speak 2 cycle. All this is
very new to me. I've always flown behind Continentals or Lycomings
before.
Really getting anxious to fly this contraption but I want the engine to
be right before I try it. Guess I'm going to wear out the pins folding
and unfolding the wings every day. What do you all use to safety the
wing, strut, aileron and flap pins in place. I have been using the
safety pin looking wires that came with the machine. So far I've lost
about 4 of them during engine runs. I swear I had them installed
correctly but when I shut the engine down and started to put the bird
away I found one or more safety pins missing out of the flaps and
aileron connections. My eyes are not what they used to be so maybe I
missed getting the thing hooked right. My wife came behind me to double
check. Maybe we both missed the loose ones. I find it hard to believe
though. The thought is really scary. If I'd have gotten airborne you
all would be reading about me in the NTSB reporter.
Thanks, Bil Kolb Mk III sn 213 The millennium
bug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
| Subject: | Great Lakes Light Planes |
Kris: I sent an E-mail to Pete, gave him your address. His phone
number is 920-757-0871. Maybe that will work for you.
Dallas
Norfork,Ar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hirth 2706 with EIS |
> The bad news is that the wind was out of the
>South at 20+. My runway is East West. I was afraid to even taxi out
>to the runway to try a full power run up. Kept it tied down and never
>got above 3200 RPM. EGT was about 1125 on 1 cyl. and 1150 on the other
>at 3200 RPM. Will the numbers continue to climb as RPM increases? Do 2
>cycles flatten out on EGT as the RPM continues to climb?
Depends. If your jets are right, they will not get hotter, but will
probably stabilize (or even start back down). If not, they will continue to
climb.
>
>Really getting anxious to fly this contraption but I want the engine to
>be right before I try it. Guess I'm going to wear out the pins folding
>and unfolding the wings every day. What do you all use to safety the
>wing, strut, aileron and flap pins in place. I have been using the
>safety pin looking wires that came with the machine. So far I've lost
>about 4 of them during engine runs. I swear I had them installed
>correctly but when I shut the engine down and started to put the bird
>away I found one or more safety pins missing out of the flaps and
>aileron connections. My eyes are not what they used to be so maybe I
>missed getting the thing hooked right. My wife came behind me to double
>check. Maybe we both missed the loose ones. I find it hard to believe
>though. The thought is really scary. If I'd have gotten airborne you
>all would be reading about me in the NTSB reporter.
>
>Thanks, Bil Kolb Mk III sn 213 The millennium
>bug
Bill, that is odd. Normally those pins are reliable, I have used them for
years. But there are also round circle pins available, and if you are
concerned, they are even more reliable. You can even make your own out of
1" round springs from the hardware store while you are waiting for the ones
from the mail order. Also, if you use the round ones, wrap a 3" length of
electrical tape around the circle, and then it absolutely, positively,
cannot come off until you take it off. And from the sound of your luck so
far, that might not be a bad idea!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
> -- Ray L Baker wrote:
>
> Bill/Ben,
> The precision of your math is super. My ability to
> physically implement to those measurements would be
> questionable.
>
> How about if I were to drill out the flange to spar rivets,
> support the wing by the leading and trailing spars as they
> should have been and then drilling the larger holes to fit
> the positions as required.
This is what I intended. No way am I trying to say we measure closer
than 1/32. Th math simply was to point out that moving the TE up 0.5"
would only barely exceed a 5/32" hole. In a practical sense, if .039"
is an acceptable hole size for a 5/32" rivet, you could move the TE up
the full 0.5", drill the .039 hole with pressure in the moved
direction, and get a straight wing. Without the math, it is a by
guess, by golly crap shoot trying to decide whether to untwist the
wings, maybe end up with rivet holes too big for structural soundness,
or instead just cover warped wings and either fly in circles or add
trim tabs till the cows come home.
> I just had another thought (rare happening). Wouldn't the center rib
> be
> correct and the degree of error increase as you move each way, away
> from
> that rib?
In theory maybe so. But it probably aint fun to try to re-drill the
umpteen rivets in the root rib to spar ring. Ugh.
-Ben
=== message truncated ===
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
Hi, Gang -
I'm gonna be ready to paint my Mark-3 soon, and need to order some
PolyTone from Jim & Dondi Miller.
Anybody know how much it takes to paint a Mark-3?
Related question: I think I will Poly-Spray (silver) the tops of the
wings and the tail surfaces. How much of that will I need?
Thanks -
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Re: Affordable SWR meter suitable for a/c band |
Someone asked about affordable SWR meters. Here is a link to MFJ
enterprises which produces a few SWR meters. I have one of their model
812B and it is small, light, simple to operate, seems accurate and
repeatable, good quality, rated for 14 thru 200 Mhz. For 35 bucks you
can't beat it, in my opinion. Should be a valuable addition to any
ultralight clubhouse. I was amazed at the difference cables and cable
length alone made. I have my homemade antenna and cable setup tuned at SWR
of 1.55 or below across the a/c band now, after a little carefull tuning.
One more thing for you to tweak.
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/watt/mfj812b.html
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Much Paint |
Dennis,
4 gallons paint & 1 gallon reducer - I finished the flaps last night, and
only have the ailerons & cage to go - have a little less than one gallon
remaining, but I think I'll have enough. Ask Jim about the poly spray - I
think he'll tell you to do 2 cross coats top & bottom of each
urface( manual says polyfiber will deteriorate in a year if unprotected - I
would rather polyspray everything now, than have to redo everything in a
couple of years - that would be expensive and disrupt the flying I've been
looking forward to for a long, long time). Listen to him - he's honest, very
reachable, will answer all of your questions, and will ship you fast
everytime. Jim & Dondi have given the best customer service of any company
I've ever dealt with.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 7:08 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: How Much Paint
>
>Hi, Gang -
>I'm gonna be ready to paint my Mark-3 soon, and need to order some
>PolyTone from Jim & Dondi Miller.
>Anybody know how much it takes to paint a Mark-3?
>Related question: I think I will Poly-Spray (silver) the tops of the
>wings and the tail surfaces. How much of that will I need?
>Thanks -
>Dennis Kirby
>Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Affordable SWR meter suitable for a/c band |
Jim--Thanks for the info- I was just getting ready to go about 50 miles to a
electronics wholesaler to look in their catalogs.
Agree-one time use-will pay for the item.
Going to pass the info along to many I know that need one that are not on
this list.
Did you get my messages?
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: help on handheld |
On my FireStar I use a "regular" whip antenna mounted under the nose pod
(ground plane mounted inside the pod floor and an Icom A-21. On my Corbin I
use an A-22 with the rubber duckie mounted on top in the gap seal with
practically no ground plane. Really can't tell any difference between the
two. I have a buddy who also uses an A-22 with the rubber duckie mounted on
top of his Cub and he also has had good results.
Bill Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen " <NeilsenR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: MKIII Quick Build and other misc info... |
Kolb tail draggers take very little adjustment from what you are accustom to. The
problem is the FAA says you need a tail dragger indorsement. If you check with
your local FBO they will most likely say 10hours minium in one of their airplanes
which is spelled $$$. You don't need it. I went to the Old Kolb got my
biannual check ride and a tail dragger indorsement for less than the cost of
the tail dragger indorsement at the local FBO and I did it in a MKIII. Check with
the New Kolb their instructor is good.
The old Kolb had a open trailer design specifically for Kolbs. It seemed like any
trailer I found big(long) enough to put a MKIII in has springs strong enough
to handle 6,000-10,000lbs (rough ride) and would take a major towing rig to
pull it.
>>> steve_scott(at)mcg.mot.com 02/22 1:19 PM >>>
Does anyone know if the MKIII quick build kit would qualify for
the FAA 51% rule?
Any info on trailers that people have built? I'm looking for a
dual axle, fully enclosed, light weight, regular hitch.
Any thoughts on how to fly tail draggers? Do you get lessons
first or just taxi around on the pavement for a couple hours to
get used to it? :
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
does anyone know of a web page that will let me look up
specific tail numbers without downloadint the entire faa
data base?
also what are the types of numbers coming off the default
computer listing for tail numbers?
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard C Webb" <RICKWW(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MKIII Quick Build and other misc info... |
I had a CFI tell me that you don't need a tailwheel indorsement for
experimental airplanes.
Richard Webb
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Neilsen <NeilsenR(at)state.mi.us>
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MKIII Quick Build and other misc info...
>
> Kolb tail draggers take very little adjustment from what you are accustom
to. The problem is the FAA says you need a tail dragger indorsement. If you
check with your local FBO they will most likely say 10hours minium in one of
their airplanes which is spelled $$$. You don't need it. I went to the Old
Kolb got my biannual check ride and a tail dragger indorsement for less than
the cost of the tail dragger indorsement at the local FBO and I did it in a
MKIII. Check with the New Kolb their instructor is good.
>
> The old Kolb had a open trailer design specifically for Kolbs. It seemed
like any trailer I found big(long) enough to put a MKIII in has springs
strong enough to handle 6,000-10,000lbs (rough ride) and would take a major
towing rig to pull it.
>
>
> >>> steve_scott(at)mcg.mot.com 02/22 1:19 PM >>>
>
> Does anyone know if the MKIII quick build kit would qualify for
> the FAA 51% rule?
>
> Any info on trailers that people have built? I'm looking for a
> dual axle, fully enclosed, light weight, regular hitch.
>
> Any thoughts on how to fly tail draggers? Do you get lessons
> first or just taxi around on the pavement for a couple hours to
> get used to it? :
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: tail numbers |
Go to AVWEB, register if not registered, then data base, then N-number data.
Plug in the number and see if it comes up. If It doesn't, it might be
available.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
-----Original Message-----
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 4:09 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: tail numbers
>
>does anyone know of a web page that will let me look up
>specific tail numbers without downloadint the entire faa
>data base?
>also what are the types of numbers coming off the default
>computer listing for tail numbers?
>
>boyd
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sharp" <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How Much Paint |
I second that Chris... the BEST.. i talked to jim for about 30 min the other
day.. about polyspray.. i bought 4 gal. and 1 gal of reducer... 3 cross
coats...... is what he told me for max. protection.. he is very nice to
talk to and has a wealth of information, all you have to do is ask... and it
won't cost you a dime... has a toll free line.....
mike
>From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How Much Paint
>Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 09:50:15 -0600
>
>
>Dennis,
>
>4 gallons paint & 1 gallon reducer - I finished the flaps last night, and
>only have the ailerons & cage to go - have a little less than one gallon
>remaining, but I think I'll have enough. Ask Jim about the poly spray - I
>think he'll tell you to do 2 cross coats top & bottom of each
>urface( manual says polyfiber will deteriorate in a year if unprotected - I
>would rather polyspray everything now, than have to redo everything in a
>couple of years - that would be expensive and disrupt the flying I've been
>looking forward to for a long, long time). Listen to him - he's honest,
>very
>reachable, will answer all of your questions, and will ship you fast
>everytime. Jim & Dondi have given the best customer service of any company
>I've ever dealt with.
>
>Chris
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
>To: kolb-list
>Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 7:08 AM
>Subject: Kolb-List: How Much Paint
>
>
> >
> >Hi, Gang -
> >I'm gonna be ready to paint my Mark-3 soon, and need to order some
> >PolyTone from Jim & Dondi Miller.
> >Anybody know how much it takes to paint a Mark-3?
> >Related question: I think I will Poly-Spray (silver) the tops of the
> >wings and the tail surfaces. How much of that will I need?
> >Thanks -
> >Dennis Kirby
> >Cedar Crest, NM
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bil Ragsdale <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hirth 2706 with EIS |
Thanks Richard, good to hear from you. When the wind dies down (its blowing
30+ right now) I'll try to run it up again.
The rings, do they look like the rings that you put keys on? Do you order them
from Kolb or one of the other ultralight places?
Thanks Again, Bil.
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> Depends. If your jets are right, they will not get hotter, but will
> probably stabilize (or even start back down). If not, they will continue to
> climb.
>
>
> Bill, that is odd. Normally those pins are reliable, I have used them for
> years. But there are also round circle pins available, and if you are
> concerned, they are even more reliable.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com> |
Ok folks, more on the warped wing saga! Got the left wing down tonite and it is
almost perfect! Go figure! So I'm gonna fix the right wing, it has the washout,
I'm gonna drill out the rib flanges for the outer 5 ribs and replace them
with the 5/32 rivets as suggested. My question now is in looking at the Aircraft
spruce catalog, I'm not sure of which rivets to use, grip strength, etc.
The original rivets used were 1/8 by 1/8 as per plans. Would one of the Kolbers
out there help me out here again, just wanna make sure I use the right rivet
here!
I can see that the ribs will not have to be moved much at all to get rid of the
0.5 inch twist, thanks again to all you folks for the help!!
---
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
Building Kolb Mark III
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Halstead" <deanbo(at)calweb.com> |
I have one 6" tube with a slight dent. It's not a sharp dent but more like
a smooth indentation. It's located 6 feet in from one end and 9 feet from
the other. When I lay a straight edge across it, is appears to be 3/32 to
1/8 inch deep and about 2 fingers in width or about 1.75 inches. The width
is hard to establish since it is a smooth indentation with gradual slope.
Should I:
Use it and not worry about it?
Cut it up and make a blueprint storage container?
Sell it for irrigation pipe?
Make a Lamp out of it?
Try to work the indentation out with a makeshift expandable wedge?
If I do use it, where should I use it and in what orientation? Wing spar
inboard, outboard, front facing, rear facing or boom tube side facing?
I'd appreciate any comments.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Worthington" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/21/00 |
Is Sue Married?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: (No Subject) |
I can help on this one...
I called Kolb a week or so ago with this very question and was told that
there is no particular brand just stainless steel (SS) rivet with a SS
mandrel. And I don't think that Aircraft spruce carries any 5/32. I called
a local Fastenal store (nationwide chain...if not one local about any
fastner or industrial supply store could get them I suspect.) and ordered
them from them. 2 days and back in business.
In case your wondering I drilled out a few rivets and let the _____bit
waller out the ____hole and wanted it right. I ordered a 100 to fix about 2
holes figuring that if I actually had the rivets I would never actually need
them anymore...(a derivative of Murphy's Law) Also Fastenal wouldn't sell
less than a 100....(sigh)
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
Mark 3 hacker/builder/kind of person...
P.S. Your post the last few days have made me be REALLY careful as I'm
building my first wing right now...thanks in a weird kind of way...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 9:47 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: (No Subject)
>
> Ok folks, more on the warped wing saga! Got the left wing down tonite and
it is almost perfect! Go figure! So I'm gonna fix the right wing, it has
the washout, I'm gonna drill out the rib flanges for the outer 5 ribs and
replace them with the 5/32 rivets as suggested. My question now is in
looking at the Aircraft spruce catalog, I'm not sure of which rivets to use,
grip strength, etc.
>
> The original rivets used were 1/8 by 1/8 as per plans. Would one of the
Kolbers out there help me out here again, just wanna make sure I use the
right rivet here!
>
> I can see that the ribs will not have to be moved much at all to get rid
of the 0.5 inch twist, thanks again to all you folks for the help!!
> ---
> Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
> Building Kolb Mark III
>
>
> HotBot - Search smarter.
> http://www.hotbot.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/21/00 |
Is Sue Married?
from Vic Worthington
She watches this list to some extent , so I think you just ask her...
hehehehe
I will certainly agree with the "Sue's great" thread. She gets
answers...RIGHT NOW!!! And does it with a giggle and a good joke or
something. I have to say that between TNK and Jim and Dondi Miller I'm
getting used to great customer service and a cheerful voice on the other end
of the phone. It only takes a couple calls on my regular job to SHOCK me
back to the real world!!!!
They are great though.
Jeremy "Suck up" Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
Dean,
This happened to me too. My fuse boom has a very similar couple of dents.
Sent photos to Kolb & called Dennis - said to orient the tube so that the
dent(s) are towards the tail - the most stress on the tube is immediately
aft of the cage, so orient the dents away from that area. Also, the top and
bottom of the tube takes the most stress, so orient the dent on the side,
not the top or bottom of the tube.
There is a way to get the dent out if you wish...Dennis told me another
builder slid a piece of wood into the tube with a pivot on it - by gradually
adding shims of wood to the end of the pivot, he was able to work the dent
out by pushing and pulling the pivot with the additional shims glued to it.
Took me a few minutes to realize what he meant - it's very simple once you
catch on.
It's funny how similar the building experience is...things I got stuck on,
and then got through, seem come up time and time again. The upside is that
they build confidence.
Take MEKY-LAR for instance...I had a very similar start to what he
describes, but now that I'm almost wrapped up with covering & painting, I've
really come to enjoy the covering & painting, and am getting much better at
it (not that I'm going to win awards for my covering, but I'm happy with the
looks overall, and more importantly, I'm confident I'm doing it right -
thanks to Jim & Dondi).
On the other hand, I'm basically lost when it comes to radio antenna,
electrical, & engine discussions (thank the good Lord we have people like
Richard Pike on the list) , but I'm sure those will come into focus as I get
into them. That's what has made the building experience so rewarding.
Haven't flown my plane yet, but I'm already looking forward to building
another one.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Dean Halstead <deanbo(at)calweb.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 9:04 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Tube Dent
>
>I have one 6" tube with a slight dent. It's not a sharp dent but more like
>a smooth indentation. It's located 6 feet in from one end and 9 feet from
>the other. When I lay a straight edge across it, is appears to be 3/32 to
>1/8 inch deep and about 2 fingers in width or about 1.75 inches. The width
>is hard to establish since it is a smooth indentation with gradual slope.
>
>Should I:
>Use it and not worry about it?
>Cut it up and make a blueprint storage container?
>Sell it for irrigation pipe?
>Make a Lamp out of it?
>Try to work the indentation out with a makeshift expandable wedge?
>
>If I do use it, where should I use it and in what orientation? Wing spar
>inboard, outboard, front facing, rear facing or boom tube side facing?
>
>I'd appreciate any comments.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
Dean,
This happened to me too. My fuse boom has a very similar couple of dents.
Sent photos to Kolb & called Dennis - said to orient the tube so that the
dent(s) are towards the tail - the most stress on the tube is immediately
aft of the cage, so orient the dents away from that area. Also, the top and
bottom of the tube takes the most stress, so orient the dent on the side,
not the top or bottom of the tube.
There is a way to get the dent out if you wish...Dennis told me another
builder slid a piece of wood into the tube with a pivot on it - by gradually
adding shims of wood to the end of the pivot, he was able to work the dent
out by pushing and pulling the pivot with the additional shims glued to it.
Took me a few minutes to realize what he meant - it's very simple once you
catch on.
It's funny how similar the building experience is...things I got stuck on,
and then got through, seem come up time and time again. The upside is that
they build confidence.
Take MEKY-LAR for instance...I had a very similar start to what he
describes, but now that I'm almost wrapped up with covering & painting, I've
really come to enjoy the covering & painting, and am getting much better at
it (not that I'm going to win awards for my covering, but I'm happy with the
looks overall, and more importantly, I'm confident I'm doing it right -
thanks to Jim & Dondi).
On the other hand, I'm basically lost when it comes to radio antenna,
electrical, & engine discussions (thank the good Lord we have people like
Richard Pike on the list) , but I'm sure those will come into focus as I get
into them. That's what has made the building experience so rewarding.
Haven't flown my plane yet, but I'm already looking forward to building
another one.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Dean Halstead <deanbo(at)calweb.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 9:04 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Tube Dent
>
>I have one 6" tube with a slight dent. It's not a sharp dent but more like
>a smooth indentation. It's located 6 feet in from one end and 9 feet from
>the other. When I lay a straight edge across it, is appears to be 3/32 to
>1/8 inch deep and about 2 fingers in width or about 1.75 inches. The width
>is hard to establish since it is a smooth indentation with gradual slope.
>
>Should I:
>Use it and not worry about it?
>Cut it up and make a blueprint storage container?
>Sell it for irrigation pipe?
>Make a Lamp out of it?
>Try to work the indentation out with a makeshift expandable wedge?
>
>If I do use it, where should I use it and in what orientation? Wing spar
>inboard, outboard, front facing, rear facing or boom tube side facing?
>
>I'd appreciate any comments.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hirth 2706 with EIS |
Don't know about Kolb.
CPS (old catalog) is part #16119, about .20 each, about $12 for 100
LEAF (old catalog) has a part # of FS140, similar prices.
And yes, they do look like the rings that you put keys on, CPS catalog says
they are 5/8" OD, you can make your own from a 5/8" spring and a pair of
side cutters, but if you don't moto-tool the sharp ends, they will probably
cause you to get blood on your airplane.
If you do make your own, leave a non overlapped area a little bit bigger
than the diameter of the pin that you are planning to use it in.
Or buy 100 1/16"X1" AN380-2-4 Cad plated cotter pins from Aircraft Spruce
for $1.40, use them once, and throw them away. The 1" ones are long enough
that you shouldn't even need pliers to take them out with. The actual size
of the hole in the clevis pins is 5/64", so 1/16" pins fit pretty good.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420p (42OldPoops)
>
>Thanks Richard, good to hear from you. When the wind dies down (its blowing
>30+ right now) I'll try to run it up again.
>
>The rings, do they look like the rings that you put keys on? Do you order
them
>from Kolb or one of the other ultralight places?
>
>Thanks Again, Bil.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Dean: I had one like that, only worse. Used it in the wing, flys great
for 108 hours now. I wouldn't worry about it.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Scott <steve_scott(at)mcg.mot.com> |
| Subject: | How well does MkIII fly? |
I don't want to start a flame war, but I want to know how the
MkIII flys compared to other similar planes. Rans S-12,
Flightstar, Challenger II, others? I am making plans to go to Sun
n'Fun so I can look at the planes before I buy, and hopefully get
rides in each of them.
What do you think about the MkIII? How does it handle stalls,
coordinated tight turns, slipping, cross winds, minimum safe
airspeed flight, pitch stability, hands-off flight? I've heard
that the hands-off flying is not possible in a MkIII, is this
true?
Thanks,
Steve Scott
Tempe, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re:antenna coax legnth |
on a properly tuned antenna the coax legnth makes no
difference.
a coax cut to the porper legnth will be resenonant at 50
ohms, makes the swr meter happy, but wont transmit.
boyd amature extra n7wfm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: help on handheld |
Thanks to Lindy and Jim G. and others the problem seems to be solved for now!
I will replace the "foil" ground plane with real alum and see what that does
but it is pretty good right now.
'til next problem,
thanks
Jim in Charlotte
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
I was scanning through an 'Ultralights News" magazine and they discussed a
new version of the Rotax 582 recently introduced. It has blue heads on the
motor to distinguish it from previous configurations. I can't recall the
new features or improvements, but it might be worth waiting for.
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sharp" <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/21/00 |
yes... sniff.... she is..... i asked her first........ pout!!!
>From: "Vic Worthington" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/21/00
>Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 20:16:33 -0700
>
>
>Is Sue Married?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHe1144783(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gllplanes(at)aol.com |
Dallas: Yes thanks. Pete says the Warp is louder and slower by a good 5-8
Mph. as I recall. Looks like I will try the new mid-chord Ivo if I go to
composite blades which I prefer over any wood. I think the wood will be a
rock magnet and need to be balanced often, but thats O.K. for a starter prop.
Thanks for the input-Kris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hirth 2706 with EIS |
In a message dated 02/21/2000 11:35:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bilrags(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< What do you all use to safety the
wing, strut, aileron and flap pins in place. I have been using the
safety pin looking wires that came with the machine. So far I've lost
about 4 of them during engine runs. >>
Bil,
Due to arthritis, I don't have enough strength in my fingers to squeeze those
pesky safety pins and get them locked in place. So, I changed to the
circular rings, similar to a key ring, but am using stainless steel rings
available at sailboat store. I've used them successfuly for more than 350
hours. I too fold and unfold every flight.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How well does MkIII fly? |
I'm semi unqualified to answer as I've never flown the MkIII ...just my
FS and a few other ULs and light planes. But tonight I'm a little
bored, the garage is cold, and I feel like daydraming about flying my
FS. Thought I'd just say that if a plane flew real well hands off, I'm
not sure it would be much fun.
I've flown a Quicksilver GT500 -- rudder pedals so stiff I couldn't
tell if I was pushing on the frame or the pedals (honest!), and 747
type steering wheel with sorta stiff pitch and roll -- blech. Kolbs,
at least the FS are sport planes, not big time distance travelers
(unless your initials are JH), so light controls is much more important
to me than hands-off. I've also flown my FS for almost 6 hours in a
day and not even thought about too light a control feel. In fact, part
of the reason some of my day flights have been long is due to the
Kolb's superier STOL and handling capbilities, allowing me to go places
most other planes cannot. I've flown perhaps only a dozen types of
planes but the Kolb is by far the funnest as far as 'handling' and
promptly, easily, doing exactly what you ask of it. I'd answer more
specifically to the flight qualities you ask about, but that obviously
is better left to the MKIII pilots here.
-Ben Ransom
> What do you think about the MkIII? How does it handle stalls,
> coordinated tight turns, slipping, cross winds, minimum safe
> airspeed flight, pitch stability, hands-off flight? I've heard
> that the hands-off flying is not possible in a MkIII, is this
> true?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How well does MkIII fly? |
Steve,
I have flown the Mark II, Mark III, original Firestar and Firestar II. To
me,
they all share certain flying qualities. While I wouldn't consider them "hands
off"
flying machines, they are not touchy or difficult. And they don't need much rudder,
except under full power climb. The stick control is so light, and the planes are
right there doing whatever is asked, that I am suprised how quickly they will
change course after I take my hand off the stick. When I fly a Kolb, it fells like
the plane is on automatic, reading my mind. It doesn't feel like a struggle to
control. Only when I take my hand off the stick, am I reminded how much control
I
had been giving.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Wisconsin
http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Rans S12 VS: Kolb MKiii |
>I don't want to start a flame war, but I want to know how the
>MkIII flys compared to other similar planes. Rans S-12,
>Flightstar, Challenger II, others? I am making plans to go to Sun
>n'Fun so I can look at the planes before I buy, and hopefully get
>rides in each of them.
>What do you think about the MkIII? How does it handle stalls,
>coordinated tight turns, slipping, cross winds, minimum safe
>airspeed flight, pitch stability, hands-off flight? I've heard
>that the hands-off flying is not possible in a MkIII, is this
>true?
I will try to be fair and objective, untill the last paragraph...
S12 and Mkiii are not all that different. The Rans uses a more-symetrical
wing (has curvature on the bottom), so the airfoil produces less drag and
less low speed lift. This plus the fact that some of the S12s are weighing
in at 700 pounds makes for a higher stall speed. I cannot say exact
figures for the Rans but judging by the way my buddies takes about one and
a half times as much runway as my Mkiii, it is significant. The rans flaps
are also very small compared to the mkiii. Top speed is higher in the S12,
given equal horsepower (mine does 84 top speed in level flight with 3-blade
prop pitched for daily operations out of a 500 foot field, buddies does
about ten mph faster). Again I beleive that is due in part to the
more-symetrical wing, some to the prop setting. Rans has wing tanks and
carries more fuel, that is a plus. Rans are very easy to build compared to
Kolbs, but unfortunately rans uses sailcloth. Kolbs are all Stits and will
outlast sailcloth planes. The Rans wing structure is more ultralight-like
with two little main spars and two lift struts. The mkiii uses a single 6"
diameter load-carrying main spar and single lift strut and has great
strength. Rans has nicer seating than Kolbs, but you pay the price in
dollars and weight for this kind of luxury. The comfort of both seems
equal. Price on Rans is higher (bring us the actual retail prices from
sun-n-fun please), but then you don't have to put in 500-900 hours labor
after you get it home either. That has to be worth something. Of course
both planes have side-by-side seating and dual controls. The S12 has its
radiator under the plane's belly, so coolant is routed down there thru long
hoses. This is bad for weight but good for adding cabin heat. The Rans
choice will free the builder from making individual and creative decisions
in the appearance, especially paint schemes since there is no painting.
The Rans is like a drive-up hamburger from Mcdonald's, the Kolb is more
like a homemade beef-roast (where did I read that?). The Rans comes with
trigear, which may be more to your liking, but is always heavier and causes
more maintenance than a tailwheel airplane like the mkiii. Don't let the
taildragger scare you. There is so very little weight on that tailwheel,
and it is so far back there, and the prop blast hits the tail for very
positive control authority, the taildragger transition will be uneventful.
Don't get comfortable thinking you could fly a GA taildragger after having
learned in the Kolb mkiii, it is not true. You will groundloop the GA bird
upon landing it and slowing down. Kolbs don't have heavy tails.
Flying: The mkiii can fly hands off in still air if you want. Mine needs
a little left pedal so I let my left foot rest on the pedal and my right
foot relaxes on the floor (I wake it up before landing). Mine also needs a
little right roll, so I end up resting my right knee up against the
(padded) control stick. This leaves my hands free to mix drinks, etc.
Stalls are very smooth and predictable and aircraft stays flat and roll
control is maintained. Slipping, in my experience, has been a waste of
time. The flaps are SO effective that slipping feels like gliding in
comparison. The mkiii can decend at about 45 degrees down when full flaps
are used. If you need more than that, you need a parachute. Cross winds
are a matter of experience level. I can now handle 20 mph at 90 degrees to
runway. The plane can handle a little more than that I suspect. Stall
speed is 35 solo without flaps, 33 with flaps, goes up a couple with
passenger, probably. Approach is made at 50, typically. Runway I am
working from has 500 level feet, and 300 more that rolls off, no
obstructions. I can always take off and land in the 500.
I guess it depends on which direction you're coming from. If you are a GA
pilot now, you may be more happy in a Rans. You can go a little faster
with the same horsepower. The ground roll won't bother you if you're
flying from 2500 feet of asphalt. But, if you wish to spend less money,
have a plane with much better climb rate, own a plane that will last a long
time if cared for, and would enjoy building your own plane instead of
simply assembling a kit of pre-cut pre-drilled parts and slipping on a
sailcloth, you may wish to take the Kolb. I am very happy with my
decision, probably because I am not afraid to learn new things and build
things. If I was unable to do this, I would be frustrated with the kit
build time of the Kolb I am sure.
If you are able to get a flight in each of the two, you will end up buying
the Kolb. Do this- Arrange for your test flights around mid-day when the
weather is the roughest. Each flight, look out the side window and watch
the wing for flexure during flight (while the pilot is in control), if
there is any turbulance. Then you'll buy the Kolb. I 've seen the Rans
planes head for home when the weather gets too rough. The Kolbs keep
flying. Why is this?
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How well does MkIII fly? |
Have not flown a Challenger II, but I have flown a Rans S-12, and also a
very heavy Phantom single seater, and have flown a MKIII from Tennessee to
Oshkosh and back, so for what it's worth...
The Rans S-12 I flew was several years ago, early model, and I remember it
as having very heavy ailerons and very light elevators. I also remember it
as being somewhat neutral in stability, it would stay aimed where ever you
pointed it. If you had the nose a bit low, it would pick up speed with no
apparent feedback, and seemed an easy airplane to quickly get going too
fast in with out realizing it. At the time, myself and two friends were
thinking of a three way partnership in a two seater, and since one of the
others was a student, I did not like the idea of a low time person flying
such an airplane. This was when the S-12 first came out, so this opinion is
probably no longer valid, the airplane has almost certainly changed since then.
The MKIII has excellent control authority, light rudder and elevators,
somewhat heavy ailerons, however the aileron linkage can be easily modified
for lighter aileron control feel for those who wish to experiment. Control
authority after the mod appears unchanged.
The MKIII has excellent slow flight charicteristics, solo or dual, but will
readily spin if provoked. Pitch stability is good, but it is also a
function of how you trim your thrust line and flap angle settings when the
flaps are retracted. It is capable of very tight coordinated turns and is
extremely agile, especially solo. Control authority is excellent. When you
have a heavy passenger and full flaps, the elevator feels somewhat mushy at
high power settings, due to the increased nose down pitching moment caused
by center of pressure travel caused by the flaps. Elevator authority
remains acceptable, but notably less than normal.
Slips are as easy or radical as you want.
Cross wind ability is limited by pilot ability, I still have a lot to learn
in that area. The MKIII is good enough to get a pilot with mediocre
crosswind ability to Oshkosh and back.
Hands off is an odd area. Sometimes when the air is smooth, I get the
aileron trim tab set just right, and it will go for minutes at a time hands
off. Other times, it seems impossible to find the right combination, and
when you turn it loose, it gradually ends up rolling off to one side or the
other. For what it's worth, coming back from Oshkosh, just north of London,
Kentucky, middle of the afternoon, I kept nodding off and jerking back
awake, the airplane was always at the same speed, still level, same
heading. Obviously that is not the best way to prove the stability of any
airplane (or the intelligence of the pilot), that's just how it was.
The MKIII has a broad speed range. Solo, it will readily trim for
comfortable speeds between 45 and 85. Dual, it likes 55 to 85. That is with
a Rotax 532, other engines will probably be different. Economy cruise,
dual, is about 63 in mine, that is around 5600 RPM, and about 4.5 GPH. Solo
stall, 28 indicated, dual is at 32 indicated. Plenty of advance warning.
There is a corporate pilot in our EAA chapter that bought a Challenger II,
flew it a couple times and sold it, was very unhappy with the rudder
control authority. I've noticed over the years that a lot of Challenger
II's end up having extra vertical fins added to the end of the horizontal
stabilizers, and some have turbulators around the edge of the windshield,
that might be an indicator of something.
I had seriously considered getting a Challenger until the wife and I tried
climbing in and out of one. If you and your wife (or whoever) are young and
sleek and agile, it might look good. Our situation looked somewhat less
than good...We could have sold tickets and paid the thing off in a month.
The Phantom I flew was a very heavy single seater, had a custom pod/fairing
that weighed over 100 pounds, the airplane weighed around 450 pounds, and
had a Rotax 503 dual carb. It struck me as being like flying a Cessna 150,
it seemed a very nice airplane.
Except that the prop gets the best view, and accelerates extra bugs onto
your windshield. MKIII's (and other pushers) don't do that. They will
however, punish poor maintainance by accelerating loose hardware into the
flaps, ailerons, and adjacent structure.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>I don't want to start a flame war, but I want to know how the
>MkIII flys compared to other similar planes. Rans S-12,
>Flightstar, Challenger II, others? I am making plans to go to Sun
>n'Fun so I can look at the planes before I buy, and hopefully get
>rides in each of them.
>
>What do you think about the MkIII? How does it handle stalls,
>coordinated tight turns, slipping, cross winds, minimum safe
>airspeed flight, pitch stability, hands-off flight? I've heard
>that the hands-off flying is not possible in a MkIII, is this
>true?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve Scott
>Tempe, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Drag strut clearance |
I got a Mark 3 question. On the first rib out from the inboard steel rib ,
it is framed slightly different at the rear for clearance for the drag strut
, but I still had to snip out a half moon in the rib gusset for the drag
strut to get through and hit out on the proper spot on the drag strut
gusset. Is ir normal to have to clearance the rib gusset a little or have I
done something terribly wrong??? I have measured all the rib spacing at
LEAST a dozen times and they are on the money per the plans. HELP!!!
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
Mark 3 builder/head scratcher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drag strut clearance |
In a message dated 00-02-24 1:12:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Is ir normal to have to clearance the rib gusset a little or have I
done something terribly wrong??? >>
You are ok. Just use some anti chafe tape on the parts that might
conflict so they can't make metal to metal contact. I had the same problem
on my Mark three with the drag strut braces. There is some variation in the
welding.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Does anyone know where I can get an aluminum lift strut for a Mk 111. I
need the streamlined one. While I'm asking for stuff how about a boom tube
or some 6"irrigation pipe?
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag strut clearance |
Jeremy,
I had to do the same thing on my MarkIII wing. Just make sure you make the
cutout large enough that it doesn't rub.
Monte
MarkIII
Dallas, GA
Jeremy Casey wrote:
>
> I got a Mark 3 question. On the first rib out from the inboard steel rib ,
> it is framed slightly different at the rear for clearance for the drag strut
> , but I still had to snip out a half moon in the rib gusset for the drag
> strut
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lawrence Dorn" <ldorn(at)sinclair.net> |
| Subject: | Any slingshot guys out there? |
I have been seeing a ton of stuff on the mark 3 but none on the slingshot. i
am thinging about geting a slingshot. come on slingshot owner let me here
some air sea stories. problems, performance. How does it compair to the mark
3? What engine do you guys recommend.
Any slingshots in Seattle,Wa area?
Thanks,
Lawrence
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag strut clearance |
I had same trouble with my Mark III wing, called Kolb and talked to John, sent
him a picture of what I was workin on, said to just cut it out, I used a dremel
cutting tool! It's what all of us had to do! Good Luck!
---
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
On Thu, 24 Feb 2000 18:59:29 Monte Evans wrote:
>
>Jeremy,
>
> I had to do the same thing on my MarkIII wing. Just make sure you make the
>cutout large enough that it doesn't rub.
>
>Monte
>MarkIII
>Dallas, GA
>
>Jeremy Casey wrote:
>
>>
>> I got a Mark 3 question. On the first rib out from the inboard steel rib ,
>> it is framed slightly different at the rear for clearance for the drag strut
>> , but I still had to snip out a half moon in the rib gusset for the drag
>> strut
>>
>>
>
>
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Well, it's all in fun anyway. Does all this mean we've got a TAKy job ??
Ha, TAKy taste for sure. Cornball Bourne. Do
not Archive.
P.S. Just happen to have an extra Mk III wing spar tube out there with a
pretty good dent about 5' from one end, courtesy of the truck line.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Sudlow <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tube Dent
>
> Big Lar,
>
> Don't be "Humphed!!!" I just think MEKY-LAR was an excellent description
of
> what happens when you start covering as a novice. We're in the same boat
> when it comes to covering.
>
> POLYBRUSHY-CHRIS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BERNDSENCO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: Flying the taildragger |
<| Date: | Feb 25, 2000 |
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: COZY: Re: CHT Lead Length |
t.au>
>I have a Rocky Mountains engine monitor and plan to set it up to monitor all
>four cht's and egt's. An electronics savvy friend of mine modified a video
>switching/sequencing kit which has 8 small relays so that I could take 8
>thermocouples and drive them through to the monitor and it would cycle
>through each one in turn (with adjustable delay set by a potentiometer).
>I'm just about to install it now. Would you anticipate any problems with
>this set-up?
Can't tell. I think there's a risk that it will not. Video is
generally carried on coaxial cable with all signals sharing
a common ground via chassis connections and shielding. Switching
in this product may well be carried out in manner I've depicted
in Figure 14-7A of the thermocouple article found at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
For error free switching of thermocouples, you need two pole
switching with resonable care to to exactly the same thing to
both sides of the thermocouple path to avoid introduction
of un-compensated new thermocouples that cause error.
>Can I mount it above the radio stack or should I put it
>further away from the panel to avoid any noise getting into the audio
>system?
Thermocouple wiring carries no noise . . . it may be routed
with other wires and close to potential noise victims.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven S. Green" <GREENSS(at)Bowater.com> |
A1-type: MAIL
Ray,
The process that Larry describes as recommended by Jim Miller works well on the
leading edge of the control surfaces, that's the way I put mine on. Jim also
recommends putting finish tapes on the control surface ribs and he demonstrated
a procedure for this also at the Kolb fly-in last September. To put tapes on
the ribs of the control surfaces: 1) Cut tapes long enough to wrap from the
trailing edge around the leading and back to the trailing edge with about 2"
extra. 2) Starting on the top of the surface at the trailing edge polybrush
where the tape will be laid stopping about 4" from the leading edge. 3) Lay
the tape in the polybrush and brush over it as you normally do but leaving
about 4" loose toward the leading edge. 4) After these have completely dried
stretch the tape around the leading edge over the "bumps" until the edges pull
down to the leading edge then clamp the tape at the trailing edge to hold it
tight (spring clamps with rubber jaws from Walmart is what I used). 5)
Polybrush over the tape very slowly so that the polybrush saturates the tape
and soaks through without trapping air underneath. Let it dry completely before
removing the clamps.
Steven Green
Building MKIII
East TN
N58SG (reserved)
PS Thanks again Richard.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
Dallas-
Like lots of folks on the list I'm interested in some performance info on
your new Jabiru compared to the 582. Don't know if you have a had a chance to
look at all the performance yet, but when you do we're real curious ;-)
Some items of interest:
Acceleration
Rate of climb
Cruise speed
Fuel consumption
Vibration/Smoothness
Stall characteristics
"P" factor, torque, prop swirl trim issues
Noise
Other handling characteristics
Cooling, ground/air
Congrats on getting it installed and running.
Bill George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
For Dallas S.
Where were you in Korea.? I spent a little time there-approx. 50 years ago.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
For All living North of Dothan, Alabama--Eastern US
Note: Earlier than most years. Birds departed to NE prior to dark. The
possibility exists that all you on the Eastern seaboard may be getting an
early spring and getting in some UL flying earlier than normal.
Lindy
LA-lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "plane" <plane(at)atomic.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: Lindy <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 11:01 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Birds
>
> For All living North of Dothan, Alabama--Eastern US
>
>
> Note: Earlier than most years. Birds departed to NE prior to dark. The
> possibility exists that all you on the Eastern seaboard may be getting an
> early spring and getting in some UL flying earlier than normal.
>
> Lindy
> LA-lower Alabama
>
> the robins have been here for two weeks, they got here same time last
year. It hit 76 deg. today here in middle of NC,
RANDY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Musta bin them thar Robins, as it hit the Big Eight-Oh here in northern
Shenandoah Valley today.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
WGeorge737:
I have already put my first comments on this list about some of the
speeds and impressions of the Jabiru. You must have missed them. I
haven't flown much since then due to weather and circumstances. Except
for the carb attachment, I like the engine. Smooth, only time I checked
climb it was 900 feet a minute at 60mph indicated. Top speed was
85mph,ground,95 indicated. I didn't do any stalls, but did slow down to
44 indicated with no hint of stall. It has torque up to the ying yang
and had to put a big ugly trim on the rudder for now to compensate. It
will suprise you on take off with no trim. My first fast taxi was a zig
zag and was ahead of me for a bit. I have only guessed at the gas
comsumption. It looked like I was using about 3 gallons an hour or a
little better. My 582 used 4.5 per hour.
There have been several comments about my experience of the carb
falling off and it must be some mechanical problem. Yes! Its the set up
and none of you will convince me that is a good one. One rubber adaptor
held on with one clamp and only about 5/8 of an inch of the carb going
into the rubber adaptor. Put the clamp on just a little wrong and tight,
and it pops the carb out. Thats a lot of weight being held by too
little fastner. That rubber will start to rot from day one and will fail
unless you check it very regularly. My 582 rubber adaptors lasted just
a little over two years and less then 100 hours and they fell apart and
the plane was always hangered. And yes Jabiru had better look at it and
correct it. Such a fine engine and then stick the carb on like that.
So I have 4 safety wires on it, holding it in and holding it up and its
solid. You guy who think its just fine better be checking it very close
and think about it a little more.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
And yes Jabiru had better look at it and
> correct it. Such a fine engine and then stick the carb on like that.
> So I have 4 safety wires on it, holding it in and holding it up and its
> solid. You guy who think its just fine better be checking it very close
> and think about it a little more.
> Dallas Shepherd
> Norfork, Arkansas
Dallas and Kolbers:
Thanks for the above input.
This was what I was trying to tell you in answer to your
first msg. There may be others out there that have not lost
a carb, but may be on the verge of it and do not realize it.
We have to help each other, folks. Most of the time we get
info from the manufacturers after the fact. I found out
about the cageless wrist pin bearing update one year after
Rotax was aware of the problem. Cost me an entire 447,
minus a couple parts. Had I gotten ahold of the letter,
dated one year prior to my engine coming apart, I would have
updated and saved myself a bunch of money I did not have.
This was 1988 and 1989. Rotax is doing better, if you have
a computer and can monitor their web site. No computer for
me back then.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi All,
Got a question about installing the 912 on my MarkIII. I received
two L-angles and the leg that mounts to the rubber mounts has only 3/4
inch of flat area to drill through and it seems to me that will not
allow much edge distance. I have only a few pictures to go buy and it
appears that there is a flat plate under the L-angles which I don't have
but could make. Any information about hanging this 912 would be of
great help and I would love to receive any pictures that anyone has.
Not only of mounting but placement of radiators ect. Thanks for your
help. Monte, Dallas GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 mounting |
Monte:
I'll help you out. The way I mounted my engine, radiator,
and oil cooler worked well, was pretty simple to fabricate
and install. I am in the process of mounting a 912S to
replace my 912. You are welcome to come over and take a
look for yourself, or I can dig up some pics to help you
through your project.
Contact me b/c or 334-567-6280.
john h
> Got a question about installing the 912 on my
MarkIII.
> Monte, Dallas GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Kris: I can't tell you the degrees on my prop. I don't know how to
read the the thing they sent with it. It sure looks nice, but I didn't
understand the directions. Must be a bit retarded there. I adjusted the
prop until I got the static rpms right, flew it, rpms exceeded 3300, so
set it back until I hit it right. Rotax has two clamps on each carb on
the 582, but is basicly the same set up. One clamp holds the card to
the adaptor, the second holds the adaptor to the engine. I had an intake
silencer on my carbs and I safety wired the whole thing. At about 90
hours I found the adaptors almost in two where they had split between
the clamps. The saftety wires was all that was holding them on. Those
rubber adaptors have a short life I think. By the way, I had 7 hours
on the jabiru before the carb came off,and at the time I had two safety
wires on it, but only holding it in, the carb weight pulled it down and
out of the rubber. I now have it wired both ways. What did Pete at Gll
tell you about props?
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork,Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/25/00 11:53:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ronoy(at)shentel.net writes:
<< Musta bin them thar Robins, as it hit the Big Eight-Oh here in northern
Shenandoah Valley today.
bn >>
Bob, where is the Shenandoah valley, is it in or below Pa. ....Todd is going
to fly downyour way to Konvoy to Kentucky and I would like to meet up with
him....I'm from Akron O
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Well, I'm sure there are those who will grumble about content, etc., but for
myself, and I'm sure for many others, I say "Keep 'em coming Lindy."
That's a heck of a story, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. How 'bout some of
you other guys with aviation backgrounds ?? Thanks. Big
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Lindy <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2000 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Korea
>
> For K-8 I was at Ashia-commonly Called Ashia Machi-an old jap
> fighter strip. It was the home of the C-119's-A complete wing---314th TC
> Wing-50th TCS-which I was in-red tails-61st TCS Green Tails, and 62 Blue
> Tails--Flew from Syrma Tenn to Japan-low level-in flights of 3 aircraft.
Our
> wing commander was the mayor of Miami Florida --Maurice F Casey-Never have
> seen him since. Found my old aircraft in Kinetra, Morocco-just north of
> Rabat-Moroccans were living in it! Found it in 1977.
>
> I was a crewchief of a C-119 with 2 -4360 recips. Some of the 119 in the
> other wing --If my memory serves me correctly the 403rd-had 3350
compounds,
>
> I spend 18 months flying ash,trash,food,people, in --bodies out --not
> commonly know is their was a big Army Morgue in Kukora--just North of
> Ashiya.
>
> Ashiya AFB was on the Island of Kyushu.Probably still there-a short hop
> across the pond to K-2-K-9
>
> We did a lot of support and air drops for the 187th Regimental combat
team.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shenandoah Valley |
In a message dated 2/26/00 11:34:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ronoy(at)shentel.net writes:
<< Shenandoah Valley is S of PA, with a wedge of MD in between.
I'm in Winchester VA-- OKV. Abt 100mi WNW Wash DC, 50 S PA border, right
on I-81 if you fly IFR (the non-instrument type).
OKV friendly to all, including ULs. No twr, just Unicom 122.7, AWOS
124.85. 5600, 32/14. 100LL. Free car sometimes available.
I'm retired and around most of the time. Call 540-722-3628
bn >>
thanks for the response, Bob, ...it sounds as if you are way southeast of me
and frigid Akron, so I probably won't get on over that far this summer
anyhow. But I'll put your data on file for quick fetch if I ever do go over
there....I was asking cause Todd Thompson is going to be flying right by you
I guess on his way to TNK in Kentucky this summer...you may want to join up
with us and make it look like the Amish air force flying to
Kentucky...shoot....we would be at least 3!!................... GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHe1144783(at)aol.com |
Dallas: Pete is hooked on Culver props which work better than other props
he's tried. He said the Warp was much noiseier and slower. There must be a
composite that will work better than wood. Im tempted to try the 68" Warp or
maybe a 56" mid-chord Ivo right now. Your would think someone would have this
figured out by now. Kris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/26/00 |
Damn, Lindy, that was a great story. I envy people like you. You could write
a great book. Thanks for everything.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/26/00 10:03:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
lindy(at)snowhill.com writes:
<< Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama >>
Sure enjoyed your story Lindy.
Merle
Twinstar in Orlando
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | engine die at idle |
I have a problem. I flew on Friday for about 3/4 of an hour and everything
was fine.
Today I took off and flew around the pattern, when I had the field made I
throttled back to idle and the old girl went silent. I have a 447, single
carburetor, and ignition points. I didn't change any settings. Use the same
gas. It started good and ran fine at all setting except idle. Any
suggestions would be appreciated.
Merle
Twinstar in Orlando
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Gee Lindy, you're been around a lot of places. Must have passed you
somewhere. Spent a week at Ashiya with a few hundred other guys
sleeping in the gym and moved into the steam room to keep warm at night.
That was in October of 1951. I thought, what a nice place to be, with
all japanese doing KP and girls serving the tables, boy did that change
in a hurry. C-119 to K-8, rain, mud, and tents, and the worst coffee I
ever tasted. The Red Cross donuts sat in your stomach like river rocks,
but bless their hearts, they were there and was nice to see them. Hope
I run into you somewhere.
Take Care
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Machining Work Needed... |
Listers,
I am currently in need of some aluminum machining work that involves
milling the faceplate for the FuelScan instrument manufactured by
Matronics. I have done this work in-house on our own CNC vertical mill
in the past and this has proved cost affective and allowed for the
fine tuning of the design. I am now in need of a rather large lot of
units and would like to farm the work out if I can obtain a reasonable
cost point.
I have compiled a detailed set of files that include a DXF drawing of
the faceplate, the GCodes that I have used to create the piece, a number
of very clear photos of the finished unit, and a text file of general
notes on milling the faceplate. These are contained within the Zip
file below:
http://www.matronics.com/fuelscan/faceplate.zip
If you have the necessary CNC capability and would be interested quoting
on the job, please contact me via email at the following address:
dralle(at)matronics.com
I will provide you with quantities and needed delivery schedule.
Thank you for your assistance.
Matt Dralle
Matronics
Email List Admin.
RV-4 Builder
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: engine die at idle |
Merle,
This sounds like the classic cold air syndrome of the 2-cycle engine. You
might adjust your idle speed higher and/or drop a notch on the jet needle
to richen it. Were the temps a little cooler than the last time you flew?
Ralph
Original FireStar
>
> I have a problem. I flew on Friday for about 3/4 of an hour and
> everything
> was fine.
> Today I took off and flew around the pattern, when I had the field
> made I
> throttled back to idle and the old girl went silent. I have a 447,
> single
> carburetor, and ignition points. I didn't change any settings. Use
> the same
> gas. It started good and ran fine at all setting except idle. Any
> suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>
> Merle
> Twinstar in Orlando
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
Cannot help you with Vector Sails, double check everything in my hangar .
Thanks for the request for parts!
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/27/00 |
Merle,
Did it go silent right away, after pulling back the throttle? How much time
do
you have on this engine? Has the engine ever quit before at idle? All this stuff
matters, because it helps to know what changed, in order to analyze the problem.
Is
the jetting stock? How quickly did you pull the throttle back? When the nose is
put
down in a Kolb, the engines tend to run lean. If the throttle is pulled all the
way
to idle at that point, and held there during decent, I would expect the engine
to
quit before landing. I only pull back to idle when necessary, not as a general
practice, and when I do, I blip the throttle about every 20 seconds to keep the
plugs warm. Even if the engine doesn't quit, holding a Rotax at idle too long can
delay throttle response for a posssible go-around.
If it did quit right away, it could be a sign of a real problem. So I recommend
that you don't fly it anywhere where you can't make an emergency landing until,
you
either solve the problem, or get some confidence back.
John Jung
> From: Go5for4(at)aol.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: engine die at idle
>
>
> I have a problem. I flew on Friday for about 3/4 of an hour and everything
> was fine.
> Today I took off and flew around the pattern, when I had the field made I
> throttled back to idle and the old girl went silent. I have a 447, single
> carburetor, and ignition points. I didn't change any settings. Use the same
> gas. It started good and ran fine at all setting except idle. Any
> suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Merle
> Twinstar in Orlando
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert L Doebler <robertdoebler(at)juno.com> |
Speaking of critters under the work bench.
I started to reach under my work bench for a part I dropped, then though
better of it.
I live in "sunny California" where all sorts of critters abound. So
thought I'd better look first, just in case there might be a black widow
spider or scorpion there. Nothing there but a rattlesnake! Needless to
say, he-or she, (how can you tell on a snake? and no, I didn't look)
life's expectancy was quickly shortened.
Moral of the story, look before you reach!
It's more fun to spend money on airplane stuff. than medical bills!
later
Bob Doebler- F/S II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine die at idle |
Merle
I have a 377 and have the same problem. Everything is fine, but after one
hour of flying if I shut the throttle back when coming in for a landing it
will shut off. I turn the idle up and then it is fine again. The only
thing I didn't check yet is if the idle screw itself is backing out while
flying the next time I fly I will mark the idle screw and check it when I
land. It's not a good feeling when the engine goes silent. Let me know if
you come up with anything else. Thanks Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: Go5for4(at)aol.com <Go5for4(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, February 27, 2000 1:48 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: engine die at idle
>
>I have a problem. I flew on Friday for about 3/4 of an hour and everything
>was fine.
>Today I took off and flew around the pattern, when I had the field made I
>throttled back to idle and the old girl went silent. I have a 447, single
>carburetor, and ignition points. I didn't change any settings. Use the
same
>gas. It started good and ran fine at all setting except idle. Any
>suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>
>Merle
>Twinstar in Orlando
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
Had the fun experience of rigging up the plane as the sun was going down
today to balance the ailerons. They balanced, but the solid piece of steel
is only sticking into the hollow piece about 3/4 of an inch. Is this
normal???
Seems like the solid piece should go further in...I tried it with the flaps
connected and unconnected to the push rods - the result was the same either
way. Had the ailerons disconnected from the rods for the balance.
Had the balance weight true to the wing tip. That's about it.
Ready for the advice...let it rip.
chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/27/00 |
In a message dated 2/28/00 7:24:32 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jrjung(at)execpc.com writes:
Merle,
>Did it go silent right away, after pulling back the throttle? >
Yes it went silent right away.
>How much time do you have on this engine?>
I have about 200 hours on the engine.
>Has the engine ever quit before at idle?
No, it hasn't.
>All this stuff matters, because it helps to know what changed, in order to
analyze the problem. Is the jetting stock? >
Yes the Jetting is stock.
>How quickly did you pull the throttle back? When the nose is put
down in a Kolb, the engines tend to run lean. If the throttle is pulled all
the way
to idle at that point, and held there during decent, I would expect the
engine to
quit before landing. I only pull back to idle when necessary, not as a
general
practice, and when I do, I blip the throttle about every 20 seconds to keep
the
plugs warm. Even if the engine doesn't quit, holding a Rotax at idle too
long can
delay throttle response for a possible go-around.>
I keep the rpm at about 3000 on my decent until if have the field made. Then
I pull back to idle, which is not over 3 minutes.
> If it did quit right away, it could be a sign of a real problem. So I
recommend
that you don't fly it anywhere where you can't make an emergency landing
until, you
either solve the problem, or get some confidence back.>
I worked with it some and flew around the patch again. She flew fine but
when I turned off the runway onto the taxi way and pulling back the throttle
to idle she died. It runs fine at anything over 1000 rpm. Before she did
idle at 1000 +or - but now the rpm just keeps dropping off. Below 1000 rpm
it seems to load up and die. The thing is I didn't change a thing, same gas
& all. It is always put away in an enclosed trailer after each day of flying.
I have looked in the California Power Systems "The Proper Care And Feeding of
the Rotax Motor" and can't find the proper setting of the idle adjustments.
Thanks to all for the helpful hints you have given. I will get this thing
solved with all your help. Again thanks.
John I am still referring to your map of all the Kolb owners.
Merle
Twinstar in Orlando
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/27/00 |
I thought the idle should be at 2000 + on a Rotax. Unless I'm reading the
post wrong you are trying to get it to idle at 1000 rpm?
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: <Go5for4(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/27/00
>
> In a message dated 2/28/00 7:24:32 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> jrjung(at)execpc.com writes:
>
>
> Merle,
>
> >Did it go silent right away, after pulling back the throttle? >
> Yes it went silent right away.
>
> >How much time do you have on this engine?>
> I have about 200 hours on the engine.
>
> >Has the engine ever quit before at idle?
> No, it hasn't.
>
> >All this stuff matters, because it helps to know what changed, in order
to
> analyze the problem. Is the jetting stock? >
> Yes the Jetting is stock.
>
> >How quickly did you pull the throttle back? When the nose is put
> down in a Kolb, the engines tend to run lean. If the throttle is pulled
all
> the way
> to idle at that point, and held there during decent, I would expect the
> engine to
> quit before landing. I only pull back to idle when necessary, not as a
> general
> practice, and when I do, I blip the throttle about every 20 seconds to
keep
> the
> plugs warm. Even if the engine doesn't quit, holding a Rotax at idle too
> long can
> delay throttle response for a possible go-around.>
>
> I keep the rpm at about 3000 on my decent until if have the field made.
Then
> I pull back to idle, which is not over 3 minutes.
>
> > If it did quit right away, it could be a sign of a real problem. So
I
> recommend
> that you don't fly it anywhere where you can't make an emergency landing
> until, you
> either solve the problem, or get some confidence back.>
> I worked with it some and flew around the patch again. She flew fine but
> when I turned off the runway onto the taxi way and pulling back the
throttle
> to idle she died. It runs fine at anything over 1000 rpm. Before she did
> idle at 1000 +or - but now the rpm just keeps dropping off. Below 1000
rpm
> it seems to load up and die. The thing is I didn't change a thing, same
gas
> & all. It is always put away in an enclosed trailer after each day of
flying.
>
> I have looked in the California Power Systems "The Proper Care And Feeding
of
> the Rotax Motor" and can't find the proper setting of the idle
adjustments.
>
> Thanks to all for the helpful hints you have given. I will get this thing
> solved with all your help. Again thanks.
>
> John I am still referring to your map of all the Kolb owners.
>
>
> Merle
> Twinstar in Orlando
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/27/00 |
In a message dated 2/28/00 9:06:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, Go5for4(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Before she did
idle at 1000 +or - but now the rpm just keeps dropping off. Below 1000 rpm
>>
You were idling at 1000 rpm?? Man, crank that thing up to 2000rpm [at least]
& your problem may go away.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
My 447 starts at abt 1600, but shakes so bad I fear for the welds! At
2000min it's starting to smooth out, 2200 OK
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Bob,
Check your muffler bolts under the donuts for tightness and the muffler
bracket for cracks. I found one and it made a huge difference in idle
smoothness.
Ralph
Original FireStar
>
> My 447 starts at abt 1600, but shakes so bad I fear for the welds!
> At
> 2000min it's starting to smooth out, 2200 OK
>
> bn
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
In a message dated 2/28/00 8:42:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
suds77(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< They balanced, but the solid piece of steel
is only sticking into the hollow piece about 3/4 of an inch. Is this
normal??? >>
Chris: Kolb had just recently started shipping 20" steel counterweights to
balance the Mark three ailerons. I got my set free from the company shortly
after I had the 10" ones that come with the kit fitted up, powerdercoated and
installed. My luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/27/00 |
In a message dated 2/28/00 9:06:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, Go5for4(at)aol.com
writes:
<< It runs fine at anything over 1000 rpm. Before she did
idle at 1000 +or - but now the rpm just keeps dropping off. Below 1000 rpm
it seems to load up and die. >>
What sort of box do you have? Phil Lockwood once told me never to idle my
503 with a B box at less than 2200. He said the power pulses banged up the
gears badly at idle rpms less than that. Maybe all you have to do is pick up
the pace. I think the book does not recommend idle less than 2000.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brain Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
Chris;
My steel rods are in about 3/4 to 1 inch (that is my estimate, I installed
them several years ago).
I have not had a flutter since installing them. There was a fair bit of
discussion a year or so ago about having the ailerons in perfect balance
after installing the balancing kit. I do not think that if the ailerons are
still just a bit heavy after installing the kit any flutter will result
(just my opinion). Some Kolb aircraft never have aileron flutter and that
may be due to using lighter paint more sparingly. I was a bit too generous
with paint in order to get a glossy finish.
Kim Steiner
Saskatchewan, Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>
> In a message dated 2/28/00 8:42:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> suds77(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> << They balanced, but the solid piece of steel
> is only sticking into the hollow piece about 3/4 of an inch. Is this
> normal??? >>
>
>
> Chris: Kolb had just recently started shipping 20" steel counterweights
to
> balance the Mark three ailerons. I got my set free from the company
shortly
> after I had the 10" ones that come with the kit fitted up, powerdercoated
and
> installed. My luck.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I thought skunks were bad. The pucker factor goes way up with snakes.
Where do you live in CA. ?? Lar. Do not
Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L Doebler <robertdoebler(at)juno.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 3:17 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: critters
>
> Speaking of critters under the work bench.
> I started to reach under my work bench for a part I dropped, then though
> better of it.
> I live in "sunny California" where all sorts of critters abound. So
> thought I'd better look first, just in case there might be a black widow
> spider or scorpion there. Nothing there but a rattlesnake! Needless to
> say, he-or she, (how can you tell on a snake? and no, I didn't look)
> life's expectancy was quickly shortened.
> Moral of the story, look before you reach!
> It's more fun to spend money on airplane stuff. than medical bills!
>
> later
> Bob Doebler- F/S II
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine die at idle |
>
Merle,
First, I agree with the others: 1,000 rpm's is too slow to expect it to stay
running. But since you didn't just change the idle rpm's, something changed in
your
engine.
Here is something to consider:
The idle jet may be clogged. Remove it and make sure that it is clean. Believe
me when
I say that this will cause the problem that you described. It happened to me.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/28/00 |
Lindy, I will be coming down to Maxwell AFB to pin on my son's new gold bars
in April. Maybe we could meet? cppjh(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: wants to fly |
Got a friend wanting a Rans S6 tail or nose wheel. While it not a Kolb, he
always flys his challenger with us. Sold the challenger and now wants the
S6. I think that is steping up and maybe someday he will get all the way to
a Kolb. It takes time to develope the best of class! Email me if you have
one or know where one is. I am in Alabama next to Columbus, Ga. G'day Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
the solid piece of steel
is only sticking into the hollow piece about 3/4 of an inch.
chris
when i did mine i asked kolb and was told to remove the
flaps from the hinges and put them on a shelf while
installing the balancing rods. anyway as i recall my steel
rods stick out about 3 to 4 inches. does anyone have
different instructions?
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/28/00 |
Possibly-our club is planning a x-country down to South Lakeland for
Sun-n-Fun. They want to stay a week but I have a lot on my schedule in
April-probably will only be able to stay Thursday through Monday opening
weekend.
Insure you brink your camera to Maxwell-a lot of aircraft sitting around on
static display-your son probably knows were they are on the base.
Also at Gunter-a short drive away--take a picture of the WW2 bird that is
sitting to the left of the Gate--also a gooney bird not to far away-over by
the NCO Club.
Worth it!.
Let me know the graduation date---I am in Montgomery a least one day a week
on business. An old friend of mine a Medal of Honor winner-lives about 3
miles from me -in Enterprise, Alabama---Flew B-29's at end of WW2---came
back in from the reserves to the US Army-became a medical air ambulance
pilot--commonly called med-evac or dustoff. Name is Mike Novesel. He speaks
to most of the classes at Maxwell.
Lindy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I done it again |
>
>Wood,
>
>Was the plane from Lousiana - Steve Hampton?
>
Thats the one. He even delivered it right to my door.
woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
Mine are 10" too...are they supposed to be 20"?
-----Original Message-----
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>
>In a message dated 2/28/00 8:42:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>suds77(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
><< They balanced, but the solid piece of steel
> is only sticking into the hollow piece about 3/4 of an inch. Is this
> normal??? >>
>
>
>Chris: Kolb had just recently started shipping 20" steel counterweights to
>balance the Mark three ailerons. I got my set free from the company
shortly
>after I had the 10" ones that come with the kit fitted up, powerdercoated
and
>installed. My luck.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 02/29/00 |
Lindy, April 7 is graduation date, and I will be in Lakeland too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
Does Kolb send the weights automatically or do ya have to ask for em? Aileron
weights that is!
---
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
Building Mark III
Serial # MT99-3-00003
On Wed, 1 Mar 2000 05:04:36 Chris Sudlow wrote:
>
>Mine are 10" too...are they supposed to be 20"?
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:09 PM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>
>
>>
>>In a message dated 2/28/00 8:42:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>>suds77(at)earthlink.net writes:
>>
>><< They balanced, but the solid piece of steel
>> is only sticking into the hollow piece about 3/4 of an inch. Is this
>> normal??? >>
>>
>>
>>Chris: Kolb had just recently started shipping 20" steel counterweights to
>>balance the Mark three ailerons. I got my set free from the company
>shortly
>>after I had the 10" ones that come with the kit fitted up, powerdercoated
>and
>>installed. My luck.
>>
>>
>
>
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
In a message dated 3/1/00 6:03:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
suds77(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Mine are 10" too...are they supposed to be 20"? >>
On my mark three the ten inch counterweights were inadequate to 100% balance
the ailerons with the flaps attached. This is purely a mark three problem.
I called this to the attention of the folks at kolb. They has simply assumed
that the counterweight arrangement from the firestar would be adequate, but
the firestar has no flaps and thus does not need as much weight to fully
balance them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
In a message dated 3/1/00 7:20:53 AM Eastern Standard Time,
wingmen(at)hotbot.com writes:
<< Does Kolb send the weights automatically or do ya have to ask for em?
Aileron weights that is! >>
Don't know. Give them a call.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
I'm building the Mark III too - Sent an email to the factory, thanks for the
input.
-----Original Message-----
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 6:23 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>
>In a message dated 3/1/00 6:03:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>suds77(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
><< Mine are 10" too...are they supposed to be 20"? >>
>
>On my mark three the ten inch counterweights were inadequate to 100%
balance
>the ailerons with the flaps attached. This is purely a mark three problem.
>I called this to the attention of the folks at kolb. They has simply
assumed
>that the counterweight arrangement from the firestar would be adequate, but
>the firestar has no flaps and thus does not need as much weight to fully
>balance them.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Sun and Fun 2000 |
I live 33 miles from Maxwell AFB. Would like to meet you,
but will be in Lakeland by that time. In fact, will
probably be there the Monday or Tuesday before it starts
getting cranked up on Saturday.
How many of you Kolbers are going to S&F?
I will be pulling 5th wheel and camping in the main camping
area, like I did last year. Bill Griffin and several of the
local guys around Montgomery, Alabama, will be camping there
with me. We are going to try and get a place on the west
side of the pond in the shade near a water faucet. :-)
Sound good? Maybe too good to be true. Wanted to get a
place up on the flight line last year, but even a week early
was not enough. It was filled when we got there.
If you come down to Lakeland be sure and stop in to see us
either in the main camp ground, on the UL flight line at
Paradise City or both. We will be there for the duration.
Maybe we could get a Kolb mini-camp ground going. I take my
bicycle to ride back and forth. Only takes a couple minutes
travel time plus I get a little exercise.
Times a flying! Only one month to go.
john h
PS: Tried camping in the UL camp ground for a couple
years. Too many stickers, too much dust, dirt, and mud, and
couldn't see the flight line. Main camp ground is better
established, same price.
Cppjh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Lindy, April 7 is graduation date, and I will be in Lakeland too.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
Not only did I have to call them and ask for the counterweights,
they actually wanted money for them!! :)
Will be installing them today.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Does Kolb send the weights automatically or do ya have to ask for em?
>Aileron weights that is!
>
>---
>Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
>Building Mark III
>Serial # MT99-3-00003
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun and Fun 2000 |
John H
Just sent a message related to Sun-and Fun--If it went. See message
Lindy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
Bill and Kolbers:
There is an easy method of installing, even after the
aircraft is covered and painted. I can not remember if I
sent my procedure out to the List or bc to Richard Pike or
both. Anyhow, anybody that wants to know how to do it the
easy way, let me know.
If you have not encountered aileron flutter, and do not have
the counterbalance weights installed, still recommend
installing them. A razor knife, die grinder, 4 rivets each
side, and a few minutes time is all that is required to
balance ailerons. Won't be able to tell whether you
installed them before or after the fact.
john h
> What is involved in installing these things?
>
> Bill George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
In a message dated 00-03-01 10:55:51 AM Eastern Standard Time,
WGeorge737(at)aol.com writes:
<< What is involved in installing these things? >>
Bill:
The first question you have to answer is do you need them? If you can
reliably get to Vne without your ailerons jumping around on you don't bother.
Installation: I started by cutting the fabric off the outboard end of
the aileron tube. Then I drilled out the end rib rivets. I held the aileron
in the level position and inserted the L shaped welded fixture that holds the
weight and aligned it level. Then I drilled the fixture at the holes for the
end rivets, using them as a guide. I inserted clecos in those holes and then
drilled four more holes in line with the top rivet and four in line with the
bottom rivet. Ten rivets total. Use half inch rivets on the end ribs and
quarter inch on the others.
Then I disconnected the push rods for the flaps and aileron and supported
the flap in the level position. Then I inserted the counterweight and pulled
it out until it balanced the aileron. Note: in my case I got the ten inch
weights and could not fully balance the aileron. Then drilled the fitting
and weight and bolted through them to hold the weight in place. Works great.
No more flutter tendency.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen " <NeilsenR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
The Old Kolb told me that the aileron balance wasn't needed on a MKIII unless the
ailerons were built too heavy. I built my ailerons a bit heavy and the Old
Kolb sent me the 10 inch weight balance kits. I installed two inch weights one
inch in and one out. My theory was that flutter has occurred only when the ailerons
were too heavy and the weights I installed MORE that off sets the extra
weight I added over what was recommenced. I have seen 90MPH so far without a
hint of flutter. I just didn't want to hang 2 lbs of steel on the wing tips that
wasn't needed. I also ran this by Dennis Souder and he didn't see any problem
with my theory. Also if you static balance with the flaps on are you running
the risk of too much weight and creating more of a flutter problem?????
Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII 22hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen " <NeilsenR(at)state.mi.us> |
I have been flying around in the cold Michigan air and feel like I'm in a wind
tunnel. I have a fully enclosed cockpit and found that the wind is coming from
the tail boom tube. Has anyone come up with a safe way to seal the tube at the
tail end??? It seems that all that air being sucked in from the tail would create
a lot of drag. Added benefits might be warmer flying and less likely to
get critters in the airplane.
Any thoughts on the subject????
Rick Neilsen VW powerd MKIII 22hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Streamlining |
Has anyone come up with a safe way to seal the tube at the
tail end??? It seems that all that air being sucked in from
the tail would create a lot of drag. Added benefits might be
warmer flying and less likely to get critters in the
airplane.
> Rick Neilsen VW powerd MKIII 22hours
Rick and Kolbers:
Haven't even thought about that, but quite possible. That
is a good size vent. Might help keep the "ice snakes" out
of my unheated cockpit during my flight this summer.
I just had a problem with critters. A squirrel got in my MK
III either tail boom or down under and thru the hole under
the engine. Decided to make a warm happy home for himself.
Sampled most items made of plastic and nylon to include my
shoulder harness, cargo door cover, Rotax tool bag, cotton
bag for tie downs, kevlar bridal for prcht, battery tie down
strap, seat cover draw strings, and last but not least the
intercom and radio wiring under the deck. Would not have
known he ate the wires but found a two inch piece of
intercom wire he had cut off when I was cleaning out his
nest from under the deck (floor board). Thought at first it
was a rat, but found a half eaten hickory nut on the bottom
of the fuselage. First problem with "animules" in 16 years
of hangering at Gantt International Airport. As if I did
not have enough to do just updating the airplane and
installing the new engine. Oh well, part of homebuilding
and experimental airplane fun. BTW, no hull insurance. Boo
hoo! Will have hull insurance soon, even though I will have
to mortgage my house to get it.
Let me know what you come up with to seal the boom tube.
How about a can of insulating foam? shot into the tail boom
just ahead of the elevator control mechanism and rudder
cable hardware???
Waiting for some good ideas, Gang.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
> The first question you have to answer is do you need them? If you can
> reliably get to Vne without your ailerons jumping around on you don't bother.
Hey Gang:
I wrote a couple msgs last Aug ref aileron flutter and
counterbalance weights. Go to the Archive Search. Look for
"Kolbs and Aileron Flutter."
I'll share with you all how I did my installation of
counterbalance weights after the fact shortly. Got to get
to work.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Counterbalance Weight Installation Tip |
Hi Gang:
You can save the agony of drilling out old rivets by doing
the following:
After the fabric is trimmed out of the end of the aileron
tube, there are two rivets sticking inside the tube that
prevent the counterbalance weight from being inserted.
It is not necessary to drill these two rivets out of the rib
ends. If you have a die grinder and a carbide burr, or
Dremel tool, or whatever, simply remove the part of the
rivets that are sticking down into the inside of the aileron
tube. The fabric will hold what is left of the two rivets
and the rib ends securely, from now on. I guarantee!!!
Mine have been holding since 1993 and over 1,100 hours.
Follow the other instructions for installation.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Streamlining |
John,
Would have been interesting if you'd took that little critter for an
unexpected "ride". Bet it would have made a good Ray Stevens song!!!
hehehehe (Some won't get that joke....)
Ask Mike Highsmith about that sealing of the boom tube. If i remember right
he cut some fairly stiff foam to fit the cockpit end of the tube and stuck
it in. His comment was that if the rats can't see light then they won't
come up the tube (and leave you all those little "prizes" everywhere.)
Another idea would be to cut a plywood form block and form a piece of thin
al. (.020?) into a 6" circle with a flange , locate holes for the cables to
come through and put some grommets/ferrules to prevent chafing and attach
with a couple of rivets through the boom tube.
Have to think that the foam would do the job and certainly be easier. Also
the alum. route would REQUIRE the ferrules be located accurately or you
could get cable chafing (actually the stainless cables would win if rubbed
on .020 6061 but it wouldn't be good for it anyway...)
Jeremy "thinking too much" Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Streamlining
>
> Has anyone come up with a safe way to seal the tube at the
>tail end??? It seems that all that air being sucked in from
>the tail would create a lot of drag. Added benefits might be
>warmer flying and less likely to get critters in the
>airplane.
>
>> Rick Neilsen VW powerd MKIII 22hours
>
>
>Rick and Kolbers:
>
>Haven't even thought about that, but quite possible. That
>is a good size vent. Might help keep the "ice snakes" out
>of my unheated cockpit during my flight this summer.
>
>I just had a problem with critters. A squirrel got in my MK
>III either tail boom or down under and thru the hole under
>the engine. Decided to make a warm happy home for himself.
>Sampled most items made of plastic and nylon to include my
>shoulder harness, cargo door cover, Rotax tool bag, cotton
>bag for tie downs, kevlar bridal for prcht, battery tie down
>strap, seat cover draw strings, and last but not least the
>intercom and radio wiring under the deck. Would not have
>known he ate the wires but found a two inch piece of
>intercom wire he had cut off when I was cleaning out his
>nest from under the deck (floor board). Thought at first it
>was a rat, but found a half eaten hickory nut on the bottom
>of the fuselage. First problem with "animules" in 16 years
>of hangering at Gantt International Airport. As if I did
>not have enough to do just updating the airplane and
>installing the new engine. Oh well, part of homebuilding
>and experimental airplane fun. BTW, no hull insurance. Boo
>hoo! Will have hull insurance soon, even though I will have
>to mortgage my house to get it.
>
>Let me know what you come up with to seal the boom tube.
>How about a can of insulating foam? shot into the tail boom
>just ahead of the elevator control mechanism and rudder
>cable hardware???
>
>Waiting for some good ideas, Gang.
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Sealing Boom Tube |
> Have to think that the foam would do the job and certainly be easier. Also
> the alum. route would REQUIRE the ferrules be located accurately or you
> could get cable chafing (actually the stainless cables would win if rubbed
> on .020 6061 but it wouldn't be good for it anyway...)
>
> Jeremy "thinking too much" Casey
Jeremy and Gang:
Yep, I think a can of foam insulation would do the trick, if
it is not corrosive to aluminum and SS cable. Easy enough
to squirt it up in the tail end of the boom tube, let it
set, then work the controls thru their full range of travel,
and "walla" end of another draft problem. Now only 99 more
holes to plug, but I do need some of them for venilation.
:-)
Logical ole common horse sense says the SS cable will win
over a rubbing contest with aluminum sheet, but experience
says it probably won't in the long run. Least ways, the
nylon cable fairlead inserts won out over the 3/32 SS rudder
cables on my MK III. An item that needs regular
inspection. Pretty sure the SS will win out over sprayed
foam insulation.
Was just thinking about dirt and crud and water inside the
boom tube. Might be a good idea to seal both fore and aft
ends to kept this stuff out, just far enough inside the tube
to clear elevator control mechanism and turnbuckles on the
front end.
Take care,
john h
PS: Wonder if there will be a condensation problem inside
the boom tube if I seal it up, both ends?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jimh474(at)nettally.com |
| Subject: | Sealing Boom Tube |
Bro, Yep! you would make a bunch of water. Especially on these warm days
and cool nights. But put a weep hole in the bottom of the foam to let
the water run out and out you should be okay.Or fill the entire tube
with foam. Very little weight envolved and you wouldn't have the moister
problem. Rudder and elevator cables wouldn't beat against the inside of
the tail tube.
Jim H
john h
PS: Wonder if there will be a condensation problem inside
the boom tube if I seal it up, both ends?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Boom Tube |
>PS: Wonder if there will be a condensation problem inside
>the boom tube if I seal it up, both ends?
>
Good question , I would think that a weep hole just like when you seal up
your wings with Poly-everything would be in order but Wings are not a
metallic surface that chills so quickly either. I suspect the alum. would
be more susceptible to condensation. What about a 1/8 weep hole drilled in
the bottom of the boom tube right in front of the "seal" (Sitting on the
ground any visible moisture that would form would run downhill out the
drain... makes good 'ole horse sense but we all know what that's worth.
Jeremy
P.S. I'm sloshing the inside of my boom tube with good ole poly-something
epoxy primer...probably would stop any corrosive effect of the foam. I
think once it's cured it is practically harmless and I've gotten it on my
fingers wet before and other than being next to impossible to get off had no
ill effects. I know someone who might know about whether the foam has any
corrosive properties...(composite plane guy) I'll post it when I find out
something...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard_Harris(at)albemarle.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Boom Tube |
Hay John: Why don't you just put a rat trap in the boon tube ?
RH MK3 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Must be the time of the year. Following Big Lar's comments about a
skunk, I sent him a private jibe about how to handle the problem (involved
live trapping so he could shoot it at his leisure) I managed to get a Civit
cat, (small striped one) under my house. I am not sure if its because of
the breeding season or he just has a little problem with incontinence, but
he managed to give us a good shot under the house with out any provocation.
So out comes the live trap! I caught him this morning. I look at him in
the trap, thinking to myself that I have had a few problems with my
hormones over the years, so I decide to release him. I managed to pick up
the trap without any problem and carry him out to my new truck. Put him
inside (the back of course) and take off to work. I get far enough away
that he can't find his way back and stop the truck. Well you guessed it---
the cute little darling managed to dribble enough out of his butt that my
truck smelled pretty bad. I picked him out of the truck, regreting that I
had left the shotgun home, and managed to release him without getting a
parting shot from him.(wasn't sure for a bit there). So anyway the moral of
this story is that NO GOOD DEED GOES UNPUNISHED.
Larry
PS
carb cleaner does a pretty good job on Civit cat odor.
They stink a lot less than regular skunks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sharp" <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
I spoke to norm the other day he's the new CEO head honcho dude... had a
problem with e-mail. said they have been having problems with e-mail...
might want to call also.....
later
>From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 08:04:33 -0600
>
>
>I'm building the Mark III too - Sent an email to the factory, thanks for
>the
>input.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 6:23 AM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>
>
> >
> >In a message dated 3/1/00 6:03:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> >suds77(at)earthlink.net writes:
> >
> ><< Mine are 10" too...are they supposed to be 20"? >>
> >
> >On my mark three the ten inch counterweights were inadequate to 100%
>balance
> >the ailerons with the flaps attached. This is purely a mark three
>problem.
> >I called this to the attention of the folks at kolb. They has simply
>assumed
> >that the counterweight arrangement from the firestar would be adequate,
>but
> >the firestar has no flaps and thus does not need as much weight to fully
> >balance them.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine shut off at idle |
Try setting your base idle speed to 2000 RPM. This gives about 700 prop RPM
which is about the same idle speed as most 4 stroke direct drive engines so
it won't want to move the aircraft much. I read an article from one of our
Rotax experts who said never let the engine speed fall below 2500 for best
engine and gearbox life. Mine stays smooth at 2000 so that's where it is set.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Boom Tube |
Ok, This is what has been working for me in the Fergy for over 2 years. I
cut a 1 1/2" thick piece of polyurethan foam slightly larger than the boom
tube with slits cut for the control cables. Slipped the foam in the tube at
the forward end and flushed it with the tube end. The larger size and the
rivot ends make for a secure fit. It has never moved since I put it in
except for my periodical inspections.
No draft, but you have to seal the rest of the cockpit to make it work well.
Firehawk
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Sealing Boom Tube
>Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 15:15:27 -0500
>
>
> >PS: Wonder if there will be a condensation problem inside
> >the boom tube if I seal it up, both ends?
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Boom Tube |
Ok, This is what has been working for me in the Fergy for over 2 years. I
cut a 1 1/2" thick piece of polyurethan foam slightly larger than the boom
tube with slits cut for the control cables. Slipped the foam in the tube at
the forward end and flushed it with the tube end. The larger size and the
rivet ends make for a secure fit. It has never moved since I put it in
except for my periodical inspections.
No draft, but you have to seal the rest of the cockpit to make it work well.
Firehawk
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Sealing Boom Tube
>Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 15:15:27 -0500
>
>
> >PS: Wonder if there will be a condensation problem inside
> >the boom tube if I seal it up, both ends?
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Hoo, Boy ! ! ! Talk about a co-incidence, eh ?? I think I'm gonna leave
this one alone. That was the question I had earlier, on how to get him OUT
of the trap. You're a brave man, Charlie Brown. I've been
wanting to ask you if you were at Alvord when Jack McCornack had his land
sailer experience. Musta been fun. Big Lar. Do
not Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry & Karen Cottrel <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 4:34 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: critters
>
> Must be the time of the year. Following Big Lar's comments about a
> skunk, I sent him a private jibe about how to handle the problem (involved
> live trapping so he could shoot it at his leisure) I managed to get a
Civit
> cat, (small striped one) under my house. I am not sure if its because of
> the breeding season or he just has a little problem with incontinence, but
> he managed to give us a good shot under the house with out any
provocation.
> So out comes the live trap! I caught him this morning. I look at him in
> the trap, thinking to myself that I have had a few problems with my
> hormones over the years, so I decide to release him. I managed to pick up
> the trap without any problem and carry him out to my new truck. Put him
> inside (the back of course) and take off to work. I get far enough away
> that he can't find his way back and stop the truck. Well you guessed it---
> the cute little darling managed to dribble enough out of his butt that my
> truck smelled pretty bad. I picked him out of the truck, regreting that I
> had left the shotgun home, and managed to release him without getting a
> parting shot from him.(wasn't sure for a bit there). So anyway the moral
of
> this story is that NO GOOD DEED GOES UNPUNISHED.
> Larry
>
> PS
> carb cleaner does a pretty good job on Civit cat odor.
> They stink a lot less than regular skunks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Boom Tube |
How about 1/4" mesh hardware cloth ?? It would keep ANY critters out, and
would ventilate too. To restrict ventilation, staple some plastic over a
portion. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 11:36 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Sealing Boom Tube
>
>
> > Have to think that the foam would do the job and certainly be easier.
Also
> > the alum. route would REQUIRE the ferrules be located accurately or you
> > could get cable chafing (actually the stainless cables would win if
rubbed
> > on .020 6061 but it wouldn't be good for it anyway...)
> >
> > Jeremy "thinking too much" Casey
>
> Jeremy and Gang:
>
> Yep, I think a can of foam insulation would do the trick, if
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Boom Tube |
> I have the Sigtronics SPA400N and it does help the high noise situation.
>
> Terry
Terry and Gang:
Thanks for the info. First report I have had on the
SPA400N. Glad it works. I have been using the SPA400 since
I first started flying the MK III (8 yrs). It works well,
except in a high noise environment. Best feature to me is
the side tone. My King KX99 handheld is supposed to have
side tone, but not so, or my hearing is really bad. I leave
the intercom on all the time for the side tone feature. Do
not have passengers that often. With the intercom on, and I
get tired, bored, sleepy, etc., I can sing to myself. Wow!
That will wake up anything.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
No I missed that one. I went the week that it was listed in the UL news,
which happened to be the week before. My neighbor recieved my UL News mag
in the mail and wouldn't give it back, so I have been wondering what
happened to him. His writing seems a bit vague sometimes, now we know the
reason.
Larry
----------
> From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: critters
> Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 6:02 PM
>
>
> Hoo, Boy ! ! ! Talk about a co-incidence, eh ?? I think I'm gonna
leave
> this one alone. That was the question I had earlier, on how to get him
OUT
> of the trap. You're a brave man, Charlie Brown. I've been
> wanting to ask you if you were at Alvord when Jack McCornack had his land
> sailer experience. Musta been fun. Big Lar.
Do
> not Archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flatwood" <flatwood(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | KOLB FIRESTAR Ultralight- Rotax 377 |
theres a KOLB FIRESTAR Ultralight- Rotax 377 up on eBay at this link
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=272228203
has anybody looked at it. i was thinking about bidding on it. it starts at
$5000 and looks like a nice plane. its way out on the left coast though and
i cant go see it.
has anybody looked at it??? even with the 377 it should be worth five or six
thousand wouldnt you think.
-=tab
http://questx.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Halstead" <deanbo(at)calweb.com> |
| Subject: | Tube Dent Solution |
This is a general post for anyone who may have a dented tube or who may
experience a dented tube in the future. It works for small dents but I
wouldn't recommend it for a salvage job if you really have a deep crease.
A few days ago I posted a question on how to remove a dent from a 6" tube.
The solution that finally came to me was very simple and effective.
The scissor jack from my wife's car! It's a Japanese auto (Acura) and has a
small jack. The jack is only 3 1/2" high and 3 1/2" wide in its collapsed
state. I made a small wooden semi-circular longitudinal pad about 12" long
for the jack to sit on so it would not deform the good side of the tube as
it pressed against the opposite side. I made a smaller wooden rounded pad
about the size of the dent that attached to the top of the jack. By sliding
this assembly down the tube to the offending area and then cranking /
expanding the jack, it was possible to remove the dent in its entirety.
This method was very simple and the degree of pressure applied to the dent
area was easily adjustable and focused without using brute force. If anyone
is interested, I can scan a drawing of the assembly and forward it to you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Boom Tube |
Geo.,
You gotta admit yer rats have excellent taste.
bn
do archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing the boom tube |
I sealed the boom tube, for winter flying, a couple years ago and its still
working so I will explain it to you. It is simply Stits fabric leftover
from patches making. You know, the stuff you pre-shrink and poly brush, to
be used for patches and reinforcements. Glue a pc of this stuff over the
end of the tube, inside the cabin. Its pretty simple. Then take your
soldering iron and burn holes/slots for the control cables. If you want,
make the slots first, so you can add the fabric without taking off the
control cables. This seals it pretty well and there's no question about
which would win the rubbing contest, the cable or the fabric. It won't
keep out rats though, I would guess.
A lot of air pours in thru this hole if left open. If you want to have
cabin heat, all the major leaks must be sealed first.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
I emailed the fellow I mentioned and he says that sure nuff , the 2 part
urethane foam is practically harmless. (Unless you ate it or something...)
Anyway it doesn't have any corrosive agents and if the tube was dry where
you sprayed it , it shouldn't trap any moisture against the surface. Don't
know if everyone did but I sloshed the inside of the tube anyway so I think
I'm gonna go that way. Simple and definetly sealed.
If the rat gets through at least he'll get a belly ache...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Tube Dent Solution |
Very ingenious Dean. Your idea reminds me of the fact that some builders
have to come up with their own solutions if they are not part of an EAA
chapter or don't have some friends to help out with certain "ticklish"
assembly tasks. I often worked alone on my Firestar and came to rely on a
"come-along" winch for jobs like lifting the engine up onto the engine mount
and getting it positioned. I also became adept at building special holding
fixtures and racks to hold wings in position, etc.
The funniest experience I had was fitting the 5" fuselage tube into the
cage. After pushing, pulling, pounding on the end of the tube with a 2X4,
etc. I decided what I needed to do was let gravity help me do the job. I
carefully heated the steel ring in the fuse to expand it a bit, got the
aluminum tube started into the ring, then picked up the whole cage with the
tube and tail feathers installed and carried it out into the yard. Picture
this: the bare, unfinished cage with the aluminum tube and the tail feathers
(before covering). Stood the whole thing up on its nose and wiggled the
aluminum tube until it seated all the way in the ring.
About this time an older gentleman was passing by while walking his
Dalmatian. He took a long look and said; "That is the strangest ham radio
antenna I have ever seen, but it looks like it will do the job." It was all
I could do to keep from dropping the whole thing, but since I didn't want to
offend him I played along. "Yeah, if I could just get it up on top of the
house my range would be even better." This gentleman became a regular
visitor on his walks and he was very surprised when my antenna turned into
an airplane.
Had another good laugh a year later when I had to temporarily park my FS on
its trailer in my sister's garage. (If you're blonde or know a blonde, don't
be offended). One of my sister's blonde friends (a nurse) came to get some
items she had stored in my sister's garage. She wanted to be able to back in
and load the stuff in her SUV, so she came over and asked me if I could move
my "boat." LOL, but I wouldn't want her anywhere near me in an operating
room.
Bruce E. Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: Dean Halstead [mailto:deanbo(at)calweb.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 10:49 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Tube Dent Solution
This is a general post for anyone who may have a dented tube or who may
experience a dented tube in the future. It works for small dents but I
wouldn't recommend it for a salvage job if you really have a deep crease.
A few days ago I posted a question on how to remove a dent from a 6" tube.
The solution that finally came to me was very simple and effective.
The scissor jack from my wife's car! It's a Japanese auto (Acura) and has a
small jack. The jack is only 3 1/2" high and 3 1/2" wide in its collapsed
state. I made a small wooden semi-circular longitudinal pad about 12" long
for the jack to sit on so it would not deform the good side of the tube as
it pressed against the opposite side. I made a smaller wooden rounded pad
about the size of the dent that attached to the top of the jack. By sliding
this assembly down the tube to the offending area and then cranking /
expanding the jack, it was possible to remove the dent in its entirety.
This method was very simple and the degree of pressure applied to the dent
area was easily adjustable and focused without using brute force. If anyone
is interested, I can scan a drawing of the assembly and forward it to you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron balance |
Group,
Got an email back the same day from TNK on this. Sue says they've ordered
stock for the 20" weights (solid pieces) and will ship asap. I'm assuming
the 20" weights are for the MIII, and the 10" for the other models.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Sharp <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>
>I spoke to norm the other day he's the new CEO head honcho dude... had a
>problem with e-mail. said they have been having problems with e-mail...
>might want to call also.....
>
>later
>
>
>>From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
>>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>>Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 08:04:33 -0600
>>
>>
>>I'm building the Mark III too - Sent an email to the factory, thanks for
>>the
>>input.
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
>>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>>Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 6:23 AM
>>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>>
>>
>> >
>> >In a message dated 3/1/00 6:03:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>> >suds77(at)earthlink.net writes:
>> >
>> ><< Mine are 10" too...are they supposed to be 20"? >>
>> >
>> >On my mark three the ten inch counterweights were inadequate to 100%
>>balance
>> >the ailerons with the flaps attached. This is purely a mark three
>>problem.
>> >I called this to the attention of the folks at kolb. They has simply
>>assumed
>> >that the counterweight arrangement from the firestar would be adequate,
>>but
>> >the firestar has no flaps and thus does not need as much weight to fully
>> >balance them.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: IMPORTANT MESSAGE |
Guys: the banana message is pure crap, and has been circulating on the
Internet for a while. Right up there with albino alligators in the sewers,
and Elvis sightings at the mall, and claims of 700 hours between
decarbonizations with synthetic 2 stroke oil. I showed it to my girlfriend
who is a surgeon at one of the top hospitals in New York City (what she is
doing with a guy who flies a mark 3 instead of, say, a Bonanza is another
story). She rolled her eyes and explained in language appropriate for a
three year old that necrotizing fasicitis, better known as flesh eating
bacteria in the National Inquirer, cannot be transmitted by contact with
bananas.
So go right ahead and rub those bannas all over yourself.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard_Harris(at)albemarle.com |
| Subject: | [Fwd: Fw: The Ant & The Grasshopper] |
---------------------- Forwarded by Richard Harris/Magnolia/Chem/Albemarle on
03/02/2000 12:32 PM ---------------------------
From: Steve Hampton on 03/02/2000 12:19 PM
cc:
Subject: [Fwd: Fw: The Ant & The Grasshopper]
Some of this sure does sound familiar, doesn't it?!
---------------------- Forwarded by Steve Hampton/Magnolia/Chem/Albemarle on
03/02/2000 12:18 PM ---------------------------
> Old Chinese Version
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> The ant works hard in the heat all summer long, building his house and
> laying up supplies for the winter. The grasshopper thinks the ant is a
fool
> and laughs and dances and plays the summer away. Come winter the ant is
> warm and well fed. The grasshopper, by contrast, has no food or shelter
so
> he dies out in the cold.
>
> *********************************************************
> Modern American Version
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> The ant works hard in the heat all summer long, building his house and
> laying up supplies for the winter. The grasshopper thinks the ant is a
fool
> and laughs and dances and plays the summer away. Come winter, the
> shivering grasshopper calls a press conference and demands to know why the
> ant should be allowed to be warm and well fed while others are cold and
> starving?
>
> CBS, NBC and ABC show up to provide pictures of the shivering grasshopper,
> next to the video of the ant in his comfortable home with a table filled
> with food. America is stunned by the sharp contrast. How is it possible
in
> a country of such wealth, that a poor grasshopper is allowed to suffer
like
> this?
>
> Next, a representative of the NAGB (national association of green bugs)
> appeared on Nightline and charged the ant with green bias. He makes the
> case that the grasshopper is the victim of 30 million years of greenism.
>
> Kermit the Frog appears on Oprah with the grasshopper and everybody cries
> and he sings the song "It's not easy being green."
>
> Bill and Hillary Clinton make a special guest appearance on the CBS
Evening
> News to tell a concerned Dan Rather that they will do everything they can
> for the grasshopper who has been denied the prosperity he deserves by
those
> who benefitted unfairly during the Reagan summers.
>
> Richard Gephardt exclaimed in an interview with Peter Jennings that the
ant
> has gotten rich by unfairly profiting from the grasshopper and calls for
an
> immediate tax hike on the ant to make him pay his "fair share".
>
> Finally the EEOC drafts the "Economic Equity and Anti-Greenism Act,"
> retroactive to the beginning of the summer. The ant is fined for failing
to
> hire a proportionate number of green bugs and, having nothing left to pay
> his retroactive taxes, his home is confiscated by the government.
>
> Hillary enlists her old law firm to represent the grasshopper in a
> defamation suit against the ant, and the case is tried before a panel of
> federal hearing officers that Bill appointed from a list of single-parent
> welfare moms who can only hear cases on Thursdays between 1330 and 1500.
>
> The ant loses the case. The story ends as we see the grasshopper finishing
> up the last bits of the ant's food while the government house he's living
> in, which just happens to be the ant's old house, crumbles around him
> because the grasshopper lacks the means or motivation to maintain it. The
> ant has disappeared in the snow.
>
> On the TV, which the grasshopper bought by selling most of the ant's food,
> Bill Clinton can be seen standing before a wildly applauding group of
> Democrats announcing that new era of "fairness" has finally dawned in
> America.
>
>
******************************************************************************************
IMPORTANT NOTICE: This email message and any files transmitted with it may be
confidential, may be legally privileged, and are for the intended recipient
only. If obtained in error, please delete this message and confirm the deletion
in an email to the sender.
******************************************************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
You could probably purchase material you need from your local metal supply
house.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Sudlow [mailto:suds77(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 7:17 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
Group,
Got an email back the same day from TNK on this. Sue says they've ordered
stock for the 20" weights (solid pieces) and will ship asap. I'm assuming
the 20" weights are for the MIII, and the 10" for the other models.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Sharp <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>
>I spoke to norm the other day he's the new CEO head honcho dude... had a
>problem with e-mail. said they have been having problems with e-mail...
>might want to call also.....
>
>later
>
>
>>From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
>>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>>Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 08:04:33 -0600
>>
>>
>>I'm building the Mark III too - Sent an email to the factory, thanks for
>>the
>>input.
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
>>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>>Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 6:23 AM
>>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron balance
>>
>>
>> >
>> >In a message dated 3/1/00 6:03:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>> >suds77(at)earthlink.net writes:
>> >
>> ><< Mine are 10" too...are they supposed to be 20"? >>
>> >
>> >On my mark three the ten inch counterweights were inadequate to 100%
>>balance
>> >the ailerons with the flaps attached. This is purely a mark three
>>problem.
>> >I called this to the attention of the folks at kolb. They has simply
>>assumed
>> >that the counterweight arrangement from the firestar would be adequate,
>>but
>> >the firestar has no flaps and thus does not need as much weight to fully
>> >balance them.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mark III Owners near Jackson, MS ? |
Hello group,
I was wondering if there are any Mark III owners in or around Jackson,
Mississippi. I'll be going up next week (3/7 - 3/11) for fire training. I'm
in the covering and plumbing stages and would like to get a first hand look
if possible. Just a check - this is a first for me.
Let me know if any takers,
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Mark III - 912
M3-308 (N308JB reserved)
P.S. I don't mind some of the stories that have been shared by some on the
list (especially the veterens). It is our country's history and I appreciate
the sacrifices they and their companions made.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard_Harris(at)albemarle.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sealing Boom Tube |
Scott , duct tape can and is used , but be sure to get the 100mph type used only
by ultralight & motorcycle drivers .
RH
MK3 #233 - 912ul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Now that's customer service |
Kolbers:
I was just sitting here at my desk at about 8:30 a.m. minding my own
business. Nobody else around. The phone rings. It's Sue from Kolb, just
calling to say she was putting the choke cable I ordered the other day in the
express mail this morning. Now that's customer service.
Mark Sellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net> |
Ok Fellow Kolbers I am in need of some advice.
We started the Rotax 618 the other day and did the 1 hour break-in as
per Rotax Owners Manual. Engine started right away and ran great
through-out the break-in procedure.
I would like your opinions on prop pitch.
The manual states:
"Max rpm 7000rpm/min"
"Max power developed @ 6750rpm/min"
"Match propellor to obtain maximum power"(doesn't state on the ground
or in the air)
We currently have 8 of pitch and get 6650rpm/min
1. Should we leave it?
2. Should we increase pitch?
3. Should we decrease pitch?
All opinions are welcome.
Paul V.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 00-03-03 10:15:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
paulv(at)digisys.net writes:
<< 3. Should we decrease pitch?
>>
You want to decrease your pitch so you get 7000rpm at wide open throttle
going straight and level.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard_Harris(at)albemarle.com |
Paul : If the 6650 is static you are probable just right , as you gain 200 to
300 rpm in flight.
RH MK3 #233 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin hobbs" <tonibec(at)hotmail.com> |
Thank you, Blue skyes.
Can we also keep it short.
Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | APilot(at)webtv.net (Vic Gibson) |
| Subject: | Re: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly |
Posting]
The suggested rules seem appropriate. By the way, are there any Mark
III builders planning to attend the Arlington Fly-in which begins on
July 5th? We are try to get our Mark III completed by then which is to
be powered by a fuel injected Suzuki one litre engine with the Raven
re-drive and an in-cockpit controllable Ivo 72" 3-blade propeller.
Jeron at Raven may have his bolt on super charger ready by then and can,
hopefully, demonstrate it at the fly-in.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Leave it alone for now, it will be close enough, and a hair too much pitch
will not hurt you, you will still have plenty of power to have a good climb
out. But if there is not enough pitch, your egt's may be too high. You can
always tweak it after you get a few hours.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Ok Fellow Kolbers I am in need of some advice.
>
>We started the Rotax 618 the other day and did the 1 hour break-in as
>per Rotax Owners Manual. Engine started right away and ran great
>through-out the break-in procedure.
>
>I would like your opinions on prop pitch.
>The manual states:
> "Max rpm 7000rpm/min"
> "Max power developed @ 6750rpm/min"
> "Match propellor to obtain maximum power"(doesn't state on the ground
>or in the air)
>
>We currently have 8 of pitch and get 6650rpm/min
>
>1. Should we leave it?
>2. Should we increase pitch?
>3. Should we decrease pitch?
>
>All opinions are welcome.
>
>Paul V.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Now that's customer service |
In a message dated 3/3/00 9:18:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, Cavuontop(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Cavuontop(at)aol.com >>
Mark Sellers is a name out of my past, but I can't remember exactly where. I
was in the air force a long time ago ...were you?......... GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Bruner <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Mk II Plans & docs |
Hey Kolbers,
Received a request a while back - sorry I didn't respond - and last week
another one off list from a Mk II owner without the plans and manuals for
the Mk II. My manuals aren't in great shape and there are some separate
and incomplete "addenda" too. The plans I have are a copy from an original
set that was in fair condition and I no longer have available. (Glad to
have the plans too - my hangar mate pointed out that the elevator trim was
dangerous as the deflection would change with elevator movement and would
allow nose up [or is it down] trim - the plans showed me that the original
builder had mounted the cable stay on the tail incorrectly.)
Anyway, wondering if there's a Mk II owner that has a good set of plans,
manuals and whatever addendum available for copying. Anyone ever made
acceptable copies of the picture manual? Since TNK doesn't have this
material the ideal solution would be a complete package that's
downloadable. The latest request is from Lee, who will
reimburse the costs if anyone can easily send them to him.
David Bruner
Kingston, NY
FS: Mk II: see at
<http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/www/ultra/class_USA_Feb.html>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Samuel Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | "Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering" 2000 |
As some on this list know, the Dallas/Ft. Worth Lite Flyers ultralight club
each June presents the "Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering" at Cedar Mills
Resort in Gordonville, Texas. Lake Texoma is on the Texas/Oklahoma border
north of Dallas.
The event annually draws 150 planes or more. This fly-in is about fun
flying and gathering those who love the sport of ultralight flying together
in a beautiful lake side setting for 4 days. We regulary draw people from
FL., AL., MO., AR., MS., OK., KS., Neb., CO., and other states. It is
rapidly becoming the premier ultralight event in the country. We would
invite you to join us at Cedar Mills Resort this year.
The "Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering" will be expanding again this year. A
new site has been established 6 air miles away that provides a safe place
from which the PPC/PPG pilots can fly as well as any ultralights needing
into-the-wind runway conditions. The new site has 40 cabin units,
restaurant, and RV sites.
To any of you that might be thinking of coming year, it is important that
you make reservations as early as possible as rooms/cabins/ RV sites will
go quickly.
State specifically in your request that you are with the ultralight fly-in
as we have reserved all cabins at Sheppard for LTUG participants.
Cedar Mills Resort (main area ) (903)523-4222
Sheppard AFB Annex (main PPC area) (903)523-4613
Victorian Inn (10 miles south ) 1-800-761-8111
Sam Cox
D/FW Lite Flyers 393
ASC / EAA UL / USUA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Samuel Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | "Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering" |
OOppss! The LTUG will be June 8-11, 2000. Information will soon be
available at http://www.dfwliteflyers.org You can go there now to view
pictures of last years LTUG.
Sam Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
We currently have 8 of pitch and get 6650rpm/min
1. Should we leave it?
2. Should we increase pitch?
3. Should we decrease pitch?
All opinions are welcome.
Paul V.
=============
it seems to me that you are fairly close.
for max take off and climb power you want to get to maximum
rpm during takeoff roll and climb but doing that you will
loose some speed in cruse. however if you want it set for
cruse you want to set the rpm a bit lower than max on
takeoff roll, by doing so you will loose some of the
takeoff performance but will gain speed at cruse. there is
no right or wrong it is personal preference. with the 618
you should have about 200 ft takeoff roll. if you set the
prop for cruse and cause the takeoff roll to go to 250 ft in
order to get a bit more speed at cruse the question is. "is
that acceptable?"
hope this helps
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 03/04/00 |
--- Kolb-List Digest Server
wrote:
> *
why don't you call this the "Kolb Mark III" page...
It seems nobody gives a rats ass about the Firestar,
I'm outa here..., I thought this page would help me,
but it wastes more time than it saves!
> K.M.A. I don't care if you "archive" or not.....
Good Bye Gotta Fly...
>
> Kolb-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sat
> 03/04/00: 5
>
>
>
>
>
> From: David Bruner <brunerd(at)hvi.net>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Mk II Plans & docs
>
>
>
> Hey Kolbers,
> Received a request a while back - sorry I didn't
> respond - and last week
> another one off list from a Mk II owner without the
> plans and manuals for
> the Mk II. My manuals aren't in great shape and
> there are some separate
> and incomplete "addenda" too. The plans I have are
> a copy from an original
> set that was in fair condition and I no longer have
> available. (Glad to
> have the plans too - my hangar mate pointed out that
> the elevator trim was
> dangerous as the deflection would change with
> elevator movement and would
> allow nose up [or is it down] trim - the plans
> showed me that the original
> builder had mounted the cable stay on the tail
> incorrectly.)
>
> Anyway, wondering if there's a Mk II owner that has
> a good set of plans,
> manuals and whatever addendum available for copying.
> Anyone ever made
> acceptable copies of the picture manual? Since TNK
> doesn't have this
> material the ideal solution would be a complete
> package that's
> downloadable. The latest request is from Lee,
> who will
> reimburse the costs if anyone can easily send them
> to him.
>
> David Bruner
> Kingston, NY
> FS: Mk II: see at
>
<http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/www/ultra/class_USA_Feb.html>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: "Samuel Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com>
> Subject: Kolb-List: "Lake Texoma Ultralight
> Gathering" 2000
>
>
>
> As some on this list know, the Dallas/Ft. Worth Lite
> Flyers ultralight club
> each June presents the "Lake Texoma Ultralight
> Gathering" at Cedar Mills
> Resort in Gordonville, Texas. Lake Texoma is on the
> Texas/Oklahoma border
> north of Dallas.
>
> The event annually draws 150 planes or more. This
> fly-in is about fun
> flying and gathering those who love the sport of
> ultralight flying together
> in a beautiful lake side setting for 4 days. We
> regulary draw people from
> FL., AL., MO., AR., MS., OK., KS., Neb., CO., and
> other states. It is
> rapidly becoming the premier ultralight event in the
> country. We would
> invite you to join us at Cedar Mills Resort this
> year.
>
> The "Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering" will be
> expanding again this year. A
> new site has been established 6 air miles away that
> provides a safe place
> from which the PPC/PPG pilots can fly as well as any
> ultralights needing
> into-the-wind runway conditions. The new site has
> 40 cabin units,
> restaurant, and RV sites.
>
> To any of you that might be thinking of coming
> year, it is important that
> you make reservations as early as possible as
> rooms/cabins/ RV sites will
> go quickly.
>
> State specifically in your request that you are with
> the ultralight fly-in
> as we have reserved all cabins at Sheppard for LTUG
> participants.
>
> Cedar Mills Resort (main area )
> (903)523-4222
> Sheppard AFB Annex (main PPC area)
> (903)523-4613
> Victorian Inn (10 miles south )
> 1-800-761-8111
>
> Sam Cox
> D/FW Lite Flyers 393
> ASC / EAA UL / USUA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: "Samuel Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com>
> Subject: Kolb-List: "Lake Texoma Ultralight
> Gathering"
>
>
>
> OOppss! The LTUG will be June 8-11, 2000.
> Information will soon be
> available at http://www.dfwliteflyers.org You can
> go there now to view
> pictures of last years LTUG.
>
>
> Sam Cox
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re:prop pitch
>
>
>
>
> We currently have 8 of pitch and get 6650rpm/min
>
> 1. Should we leave it?
> 2. Should we increase pitch?
> 3. Should we decrease pitch?
>
> All opinions are welcome.
>
> Paul V.
> =============
> it seems to me that you are fairly close.
> for max take off and climb power you want to get to
> maximum
> rpm during takeoff roll and climb but doing that you
> will
> loose some speed in cruse. however if you want it
> set for
> cruse you want to set the rpm a bit lower than max
> on
> takeoff roll, by doing so you will loose some of
> the
> takeoff performance but will gain speed at cruse.
> there is
> no right or wrong it is personal preference. with
> the 618
> you should have about 200 ft takeoff roll. if you
> set the
> prop for cruse and cause the takeoff roll to go to
> 250 ft in
> order to get a bit more speed at cruse the question
> is. "is
> that acceptable?"
>
> hope this helps
>
> boyd
>
>
=== message truncated ===
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <quick503(at)aisp.net> |
Desperation forces sale! I guess I'm going to have to sell off parts of my
MKIII. Here goes:
BRS-5 900 Repacked 4/97. Never out of it's shipping box except to
inspect. Looks absolutely brand new! With mounting hardware for a MKIII. New
is $2495.00 Will sell for$1900 or B.O.
Rotax 582, C box with 3.47:1 gears. Clutch, intake silencer, Rotax electric
start, Exhaust with black Jet Hot Coating, Side mount exhaust kit,
Warp Drive 3 blade prop with extended nickel leading edge, just overhauled
by Warp Drive. Dual radiator system with mounts.
This is the engine I built to put on my personal MKIII ( I'm an Authorized
Rotax Repair Station ). The engine case, cylinders, head and gearbox have
been acid etched, alodined and then painted black. It has a new crankshaft,
rotary valve shaft, pistons, rings, pins and bearings. New seals, carb boots
and new intake silencer. The electric starter is rebuilt and all the o'rings
replaced. The carbs have been acid etched and clear alodined ( no more
corrosion ) worn parts replaced and jetted for the intake silencer. The
gearbox has been inspected and all the seals replaced. The clutch has about
100 hrs. This engine is better than new.
Rotax 582, 'C' box (3.47:1), with Rotax electric start --- $5508.00
Intake Silencer w/mounts ---
167.00
Jet Hot
--- 162.00 (entire exhaust new in May of 97, only used 1
season since )
Side exhaust
--- 150.00
Clutch
--- 470.00
Dual Radiator system w/mounts ---
600.00
Warp Drive prop with nickel LE ---
595.00
--------------
Total $7652.00 ( Adds up quick don't it ? )
Everything is new or in excellent condition except for one of the radiators
which has been repaired.
SAVE over $2000.00 and get all of this for $5500.00!!!!!
Also have a good assortment of Rotax engine tools. Just give me a part # and
if I have one it's yours for 30% off of new !
Call me @ (337) 367-8725 or e-mail at quick503(at)aisp.net
Thanks, Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety Seminar |
Hi Kolbers,
Ijust returned from the wisconsin ultralight safety seminar. Last week we
went to the illinois seminar. Frank Beagle hosted both of these events and he
was hilarious. Flying and building aside,people like him are the reason I got
into this thing. I also met the FAA guy who will be inspecting my
firestar.The business of certification is'nt as big of a deal as I thought .
Pretty soon I will be racking up hours in the test area.I read an article in
Kitplanes about a guy who flew across South America in a FS11 before my wife
and I went on a two week vacation to Brasil. The only bad thing about the
trip was that we didn't bring the Kolb! Maybe someday as my daughter will be
going in July for a year as an exchange student.
well,time to go. Happy flying!
John Bruzan FS11 503SCDI 20.8 hr
P.S.Please keep talking about your MK 111s,war stories,garage
critters,wives,etc. IMHO I think It's all good
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Friendly reminder |
Hmmmm............we must be reading something different here, Larry. I
don't think I can remember anyone ever putting you down. If I remember
right, it seems like everything I've read by you has been well thought out
and to the point. The couple of stories you've told were very much to the
February 14, 2000 - March 06, 2000
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-by