Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bz
March 06, 2000 - March 31, 2000
point, and very enjoyable. My .02 ! ! ! Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
| From: | Larry & Karen Cottrel <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2000 8:57 PM
| Subject: | Re: Friendly reminder |
>
> If I may interject a thing or two here. I have been shot down a few
> times, well most of the time that I write to this list. However I believe
> on this occasion I may be a bit more in line with the general concensus. I
> believe that the "war story" in this case is revelant. Here we have (just
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Re: initial prop pitch setting for 618 |
>We currently have 8 of pitch and get 6650rpm/min
>1. Should we leave it?
>2. Should we increase pitch?
>3. Should we decrease pitch?
>All opinions are welcome.
Leave it where it is for now. You will change it about three times in the
next 15 hours of operation anyway, as your engine breaks in and gains
power. At 13 hours, mine seemed completely loosend up and as this happens
it gains power and will spin the same prop/pitch faster and faster. Yours
should be a good place to start.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Friendly reminder |
In a message dated 3/5/00 11:58:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
lcottrel(at)kfalls.net writes:
<< Here we have (just
guessing, never met the man) a "harmless old man", flying one of these Kolb
ULs. However it was just a instant ago in time that this "harmless Old Man"
was doing some pretty important, vital stuff. Stuff that we hope to hell
never has to be done again. I personally think that if you met him face to
face and opened your mind and your ears you would be as impressed by his
past as I am. I am sure that he went through hell many times. The fact that
after all of that he can recapture some of the love of flying that has to
have developed during that time, is to me pretty damn wonderful. I don't
mean to be a flag waver, but I do enjoy hearing about some of these peoples
back grounds, much better than a "advertisement" from Nuckols. :-) Sorry,
I couldn't resist.
Larry
>>
So what's WRONG with being a flag waver, and what's WRONG with sharing your
experiences...especially the ones that define WHO you ARE!!........
UMWITCHALARRY!!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Following from FAA "Preliminary Accident and Incident
> Brief":
>
> UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT WAS REPORTEDLY FLYING 50 FEET ABOVE
> THE RWY
>
Sorry Guys:
Forgot to tell you this accident happened this past
weekend. Sin Loi! Vietnamese for: "Sorry about that."
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Inspection Covers & Drain Holes |
Kolbers -
Looking for advice on where / how many inspection covers and drain holes
need to be installed after fabric covering is on.
Where have Kolb owners put inspection covers on your wing undersides?
For drains, I'm doing the simple dollar-patch method with a hole poked
thru using a soldering pen tip. How many of these need to be on the
airplane? For wings and each each control surface, shall I install a
drain at each rib? What's the accepted practice?
-----------------------
On a different subject:
I recall a couple months back on the List was discussion about serial
numbers of our Kolbs. Seems there was some question about the number
that is stamped on the aft end of the big top tube under the engine
mount - whether that number was the aircraft's serial number or not.
I spoke with Norm Labhart (new chief at TNK) this week and got it
cleared up. Here's the scoop: For the airplanes that were delivered
from "Old Kolb," that number stamped on the tube was some sort of
routing number, internal to the company, and had nothing to do with the
airplane's serial number. They gave you a s/n when you took delivery of
your airplane kit.
At TNK, they figured it would be easy to just use that number as a
serial number, so airplanes from London KY have been issuing that stamp
number as a serial number. Norm said nobody's s/n should change - if
you received a number from Old Kolb, stick with it.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, s/n M3-300, approx 80% finished
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Covers & Drain Holes |
Dennis & Diane Kirby wrote:
>
> Kolbers -
>
> Looking for advice on where / how many inspection covers and drain holes
> need to be installed after fabric covering is on.
A drain grommet should be put in each rib bay at the low point so each bay
can drain. This usually means the trailing edge on the outboard side of the
rib as the dihedral will cause water to flow toward the fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Covers & Drain Holes |
In a message dated 00-03-06 2:30:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kirbyd(at)flash.net writes:
<< Looking for advice on where / how many inspection covers and drain holes
need to be installed after fabric covering is on.
Where have Kolb owners put inspection covers on your wing undersides?
For drains, I'm doing the simple dollar-patch method with a hole poked
thru using a soldering pen tip. How many of these need to be on the
airplane? For wings and each control surface, shall I install a
drain at each rib? What's the accepted practice?
>>
There is no real accepted practice. I put inspection rings in each bay on my
wings alternating between the leading edge and the trailing edge. I put one
on the wing tip. I put two on the butt end by the inboard rib. I did not
cut them open. They are just there in case.
I have recovered a few old kolbs that haven't had good storage. I found
corrosion at the trailing edge on either side of the rib because the water
seems to run down hill and pool on either side of the rib. So I put a drain
hole on either side of the rib. They go in pairs across the trailing edge.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johann <johann-g(at)tal.is> |
| Subject: | Backup fuel pump installation |
Hi listers.
I am considering installing a Facet fuel pump in my Firestar II, as a
backup for the pulse pump. Has anyone installed this kind of fuel pump
in a Firestar, and if so, where did you place it? I know there are not
many places to put it, somewhere around the fuel tanks or under the
second seat. But the problem is to make some sort of bracket in the
cabin. If anyone has a good solution I would be very interested in your
installation method.
Thank you in advance.
Johann G
Firestar II
40 hrs flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
Johann,
I have a facet fuel pump mounted in my Firestar II. I made the back seat
out of a piece of alum. ( not so much to sit in as to stack stuff on) I
mounted the pump to the bottom using carriage bolts on it so that it
wouldnt snag stuff. I also have two fuel tanks and have routed them to a
three position fuel switch located on a panel by my seat bottom, then to
the fuel pump then to a Pressure regulator on to a squeeze bulb then to the
fuel pulse pump that came with the 447. I have also put a "on - off
swi;tch in the panel. With it routed under the seat, ( I wanted to be able
to see my gauges and see the position of the selector switch) I do not turn
off the fuel pump. Be aware that you can get a facet that will supply as
much fuel pressure as you could want. ( mine is 5 psi I think) I also set
the pressure regulator so that too much fuel pressure would not be
delivered to the carb. I have flown one season with the above set up, and I
am satisfied with it. I did try to use it as a "boost pump" at first, but
on a steep climb out, it coughed once. I have never shut it off since. Not
a recommendation, just what I have done and it works for me.
Larry
----------
> From: Johann <johann-g(at)tal.is>
> To: Kolb fans
> Subject: Kolb-List: Backup fuel pump installation
> Date: Monday, March 06, 2000 5:06 PM
>
>
> Hi listers.
>
> I am considering installing a Facet fuel pump in my Firestar II, as a
> backup for the pulse pump. Has anyone installed this kind of fuel pump
> in a Firestar, and if so, where did you place it? I know there are not
> many places to put it, somewhere around the fuel tanks or under the
> second seat. But the problem is to make some sort of bracket in the
> cabin. If anyone has a good solution I would be very interested in your
> installation method.
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Johann G
> Firestar II
> 40 hrs flying.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How slow can U go? |
>
>Good fun today. Early morning flight. Clear, crisp and unlimited vis. Wind
>around 20 kts down the runway at departure. Cruising in smooooth air. GPS
>says 34 mph. Now, I know that I should be running around 65 with no wind,
>soooo dropped a notch of flaps, slowed 'er up and finally got down to 4.3
mph
>ground speed. Who needs a helicopter?
Yes you can fly backwards on the "Beech"
We have done it,"Highsmith" and his "group" I am sure have
done it too.
Too impress you friends, tie a 20# test line on a beer can pop-top and
lower it down.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rats bee-hind ... |
>
>In a message dated 3/6/00 3:01:31 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
><<
> why don't you call this the "Kolb Mark III" page...
> It seems nobody gives a rats ass about the Firestar,
Actually I feel sorry for you MIII drivers I have been on the
"middle-side". When I look out of my cockpit, I feel like I am flying an
"X-Wing" from the 'StarWars" movies -(Buford you will feel the same thing).
1983 CGS Hawk 526 hrs, 1989 Firestar 583 hrs, 1999 half & half 72 hrs (so
far}. It's not the same as a two-seater.----It's better.
Nice touchdown-Nice rollout! Way to go Sullivan!
Last Weekend I landed "downwind", I didn't know it was "downwind" since we
were landing in a valley to the WEST with a 20K cross wind from the
NORTH-"I thought"-Funny how things get turned around in a "valley"-I was
set up for a cross-wind to my right/north.
Coming in at 10Mph over stall speed to make a nice easy landing -read that
- dumb-move on my part-"grease-it-in" - landing. Got hit with a 15mph gust
from the back and took out the first two wires of a bob-wire fence---I
should get extra points for almost snaging the "3rd" wire-right Hawk?
Heard the first "PING" Didn't feel any thing. Landing felt like normal,
except I couldn't climb over the fence.
Nice touchdown-Nice rollout!
Lost my right horizontal stabilizer, right elevator etc. on a fence post.
Had to borrow a friend of mine's parts to fly it home the next day.
Nice to have parts that are interchangeable. I don't feel I can complain!
Hell it's nice to feel really alive once in a while. I've tried to explain
to my son that's it like playing a viedo game game-except you don't have an
extra man.
I don't think I want my son-"18 years old" to fly these things. Most of you
guys are my age "40's"-geee-- you would think the the average age would be
younger, but it's not.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Miller" <jim(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
| Subject: | Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 09:39:27 -0500 |
From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Inspection Covers & Drain Holes
Kolbers -
Looking for advice on where / how many inspection covers and drain holes
need to be installed after fabric covering is on.
Where have Kolb owners put inspection covers on your wing undersides?
For drains, I'm doing the simple dollar-patch method with a hole poked
thru using a soldering pen tip. How many of these need to be on the
airplane? For wings and each control surface, shall I install a
drain at each rib? What's the accepted practice?
-----------------------
I recommend a drain hole on both sides of each rib, in the above manor, and
don't forget one on both sides of the "keel" at the lowest point of the
fuselage cage, (two sets, one set in a flying attitude, and one set in the
three point attitude lowest point). (We recommend going thru at least two
layers of fabric, so plan ahead, & install either finishing tape, or a
"dollar patch to burn a hole thru)
Inspection holes -- where ever you might think you would need to get in
later..... installing holes later is no big deal, so if you forget one, no
problem!
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Spence, Steve" <Steve.E.Spence(at)usdoj.gov> |
| Subject: | Exhaust silencer kits |
I dropped my exhaust system off at a friends house last night to be sent
with other exhausts for ceramicoating. Had the opportunity to listen to his
582 with an exhaust silencer installed. Seemed much quieter than my 447. I
am considering having a silencer added on to my exhaust prior to the coating process.
Does anyone know if these are effective on 447's and what impact such
a system would have on performance. The CPS catalog indicates that the straight
through design does not increase back pressure, nor require jetting changes.
What are your thoughts?
Steve Spence FF013
Auburn Hills, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust silencer kits |
Seems like any aftermarket motorcycle silecer would be very effective.
Likely less expensive, very light. Get one for a 440-500cc 2 stroke
bike. Should have plenty of flow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Bad Day at Black Rock |
Gents,
For close to 50 years I've flown behind wooden props, mostly in a tractor
configuration, and for the past 15 years in my Kolb UltraStar. I've never
had any complaints with the wooden prop's balance and they certainly were
smoother running than metal props, especially on an engine such as the
Continental A-65.
Late Sunday evening (5 Mar) things changed. I was flying at about 200' in
smooth air returning to the airport and everything was just great until the
most severe shake that I've ever experienced in an airplane started. Until
I got the prop stopped, (just a few seconds, at most) I couldn't even focus
my eyes. My immediate concern was that the airplane would shake itself to
pieces before I could land.
I had one landing option, which looked like a good one until halfway
through roll out the main wheels went through some raised muddy tracks
caused by a farm tractor. When stopped, the poor 'lil UltraStar was
missing its left main gear and the left wing tip was damaged where it
struck the ground. The right wing has a large gaping hole in it just
forward of the right aileron where half of one prop blade (it was a
longitudinal break from near the hub to the prop tip) went up through the
bottom of the wing and out the top. I was very lucky that it didn't hit or
tear the aileron off.
After landing, the engine was still in place and attached to it's mount,
but the muffler and carb were just attached by safety wire as they were
shaken loose when the prop came apart. Had the airplane been other than a
Kolb design, I believe that I might not be here typing the story. :-)
Why the prop came apart I'm not sure of at this time. More attention to
the prop was paid on preflight than usual as I had just come from talking
to a group of powered parachute people that were discussing various prop
options. For that reason, I looked my prop and belt reduction drive over
more carefully than usual prior to start up. My best guess is that
something came off the airplane/engine and went through the prop.... but
what, I don't know.
Will it fly again? Probably not. As it stands, my first flight in it was
Jan 1985 and the last 5 Mar 2000.
Regards,
Skip
1984 Kolb UltraStar
1946 Globe Swift
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net> |
>UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT WAS REPORTEDLY FLYING 50 FEET ABOVE
>THE RWY
> FROM WEST TO EAST WHEN IT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN
>CIRCUMSTANCES AND
> WAS DESTROYED, THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT SUFFERED FATAL
>INJURIES,
> OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, PALMETTO, FL.
>
>Anybody in that area have any info on what type aircraft and
>who, what, when, where involved?
It happened at Airport Manatee, the same airport that had a fatal Kolb
crash a few years ago. It was a 79 year old man flying a 2 seat (side by
side) aircraft solo in what looks to be an aircraft with a single surface
wing. The pilot (as I've been told by an eye witness) was flying at about
40' down the runway and was porpoising. The eye witness then said that the
airplane pitched up to almost vertical and at about 80' stalled and
descended vertically. He crashed in the middle and about half way down the
3000' () sod runway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Trailer Electrical Connector |
For those of you with trailers. What do you do to protect the electrical
connector from weather and corrosion? I have tried covering it with a
plastic bag, but the resulting condensation seems to be causing more
corrosion than just letting it hang. What other protection is available?
Thanks.
--
****************************************************
* Bill Weber * Thunder's just the noise *
* Simi Valley, CA * Lightning does the work *
****************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
| Subject: | Bad Day at Black Rock |
{Safety tip}
Skip, I am really glad you are all right, but sorry to hear about the
Ultrastar. Thanks very much for sharing the details of this tragedy with all
of us. The Kolb designs are very strong and feature the advantage of great
visibility and a slightly quieter cockpit for the pilot due to the pusher
engine setup. However, that pusher prop wants to pull any loose item through
the prop arc.
It is something that any Kolb owner has to be very aware of.
Yours is the second case I have heard of where an item came off the plane
and went through the prop. The other incident involved a bolt going through
the prop of a FS on takeoff. The prop partially cut through the aileron
torque tube, but the pilot was able to complete a forced landing with
relatively minor damage (like yours). I'm encouraged that with all the Kolbs
out
there, these are the only two cases I'm aware of.
A few follow-up questions: In looking over the engine and airframe, have you
found any missing bolts, screws, or washers yet? Did the prop split on a
grain line, or is there any evidence of an impact? When the landing gear
broke, did it shear off at the cage or was the axle/wheel pulled off the
gear strut?
You are now a part of that exclusive club started by Dennis Souder: the
"test to destruction" club. Because of Dennis' tests, we know exactly how
many g's an Ultrastar wing can take. Because of John Hauck, we know that you
can fly through shrubs and bushes and not tear out the tail wires or tear
off the tail feathers. Because of Skip Staub, we know you can survive a
catastrophic prop failure and imbalance condition.
Listers, it is exactly because of the possibility of the engine departing
the plane that I recommend a safety cable to secure the engine. Some would
say it is unnecessary and a hassle, but I didn't think it was either. Take a
nylon coated cable and swage one end around the large frame member on the
top of cage, pass the other end through one of the convenient loops on the
rotax case, loop it around and swage it fast. This way even if the engine
tore off, you wouldn't experience the drastic cg change caused by losing
80-120 lbs about 2 feet behind the normal cg. This is one I've never heard
of anyone surviving, but we've all heard stories from ga of engines
departing the firewall. If you need to remove the engine, cut the cable with
your Dremel tool, and re-swage it when you reinstall.
Bruce E. Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Staub [mailto:skipnann(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 10:28 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Bad Day at Black Rock
Gents,
For close to 50 years I've flown behind wooden props, mostly in a tractor
configuration, and for the past 15 years in my Kolb UltraStar. I've never
had any complaints with the wooden prop's balance and they certainly were
smoother running than metal props, especially on an engine such as the
Continental A-65.
Late Sunday evening (5 Mar) things changed. I was flying at about 200' in
smooth air returning to the airport and everything was just great until the
most severe shake that I've ever experienced in an airplane started. Until
I got the prop stopped, (just a few seconds, at most) I couldn't even focus
my eyes. My immediate concern was that the airplane would shake itself to
pieces before I could land.
I had one landing option, which looked like a good one until halfway
through roll out the main wheels went through some raised muddy tracks
caused by a farm tractor. When stopped, the poor 'lil UltraStar was
missing its left main gear and the left wing tip was damaged where it
struck the ground. The right wing has a large gaping hole in it just
forward of the right aileron where half of one prop blade (it was a
longitudinal break from near the hub to the prop tip) went up through the
bottom of the wing and out the top. I was very lucky that it didn't hit or
tear the aileron off.
After landing, the engine was still in place and attached to it's mount,
but the muffler and carb were just attached by safety wire as they were
shaken loose when the prop came apart. Had the airplane been other than a
Kolb design, I believe that I might not be here typing the story. :-)
Why the prop came apart I'm not sure of at this time. More attention to
the prop was paid on preflight than usual as I had just come from talking
to a group of powered parachute people that were discussing various prop
options. For that reason, I looked my prop and belt reduction drive over
more carefully than usual prior to start up. My best guess is that
something came off the airplane/engine and went through the prop.... but
what, I don't know.
Will it fly again? Probably not. As it stands, my first flight in it was
Jan 1985 and the last 5 Mar 2000.
Regards,
Skip
1984 Kolb UltraStar
1946 Globe Swift
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust silencer kits |
Added one to my Rotax 532. No jetting change, no rpm change, no repitch of
prop necessary.
Wife says it sounds much quieter from the ground as I fly by. Very satisfied.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
> I dropped my exhaust system off at a friends house last night to be
>sent with other exhausts for ceramicoating. Had the opportunity to listen
>to his 582 with an exhaust silencer installed. Seemed much quieter than my
>447. I am considering having a silencer added on to my exhaust prior to the
>coating process. Does anyone know if these are effective on 447's and what
>impact such a system would have on performance. The CPS catalog indicates
>that the straight through design does not increase back pressure, nor
>require jetting changes. What are your thoughts?
>
>Steve Spence FF013
>Auburn Hills, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer Electrical Connector |
Speaking of trailers, can anyone give me any feedback on the Kolb, open
trailer?
I plan to carry my Firestar about 200 miles on one of these rigs. How do you
suggest
I secure the long tube down to the pedestal provided?
How about the wings staying in place with only the Kolb pin/tube?
Any other information appreciated.
Thanks
Bill Beam
FS, 503, Power Fin
Wilmore, Kentucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron C Reece" <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer Electrical Connector |
Bill
If you are talking about when the conn. is not in use, they make a rubber boot
that fits over the pig tail to protect it from the weather.
I purchased mine from the local auto parts store.
Good luck.
Ron Reece
Firestar II
Tail finished
Left wing finished
still hanger flying too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Spence, Steve" <Steve.E.Spence(at)usdoj.gov> |
| Subject: | Trailer Electrical Connector |
Bill:
Although I have an enclosed trailer, I use a nylon strap with a spring
buckle(alligator jaw sideways) wrapped around the tube and the pedestal where
it contacts the tube. Flat stock with pins at each end fits into the aileron
tubes, bungeed to long tube, to hold wings together on top. Saddle arrangement
at bottom supports leading edge.
This seems to work well for my enclosed trailer situation, however, I do
not think I would be comfortable transporting my FF 200 miles out in the open
at any kind of reasonable highway type speeds. I can imagine all sorts of evil
lurking out there ready to do damage to my FF.
-----Original Message-----
From: BILLBEAM(at)aol.com@inetgw [mailto:BILLBEAM(at)aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Trailer Electrical Connector
Speaking of trailers, can anyone give me any feedback on the Kolb, open
trailer?
I plan to carry my Firestar about 200 miles on one of these rigs. How do you
suggest
I secure the long tube down to the pedestal provided?
How about the wings staying in place with only the Kolb pin/tube?
Any other information appreciated.
Thanks
Bill Beam
FS, 503, Power Fin
Wilmore, Kentucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | Trailer Electrical Connector |
[] I have an open trailer for my Firestar and I haul it at least 13 miles
one way each time I fly. The boom tube can be supported with a simple
padded cradle [] resting on a stand or outrigger wheels. There is alot
of extra weight of the wings on the tail wheel when folded. The folding
wing tube can become loose and damage the tube [] . [] There are some
creative cradles designed into the trailer. I haul mine backwards but had
the wings flapping to much--I made a wind screen from Conduit and tarp--it
lasted about 7 months before it broke. Maybe a smaller screen to keep
most of the heavy wind off it would help. I built a wing cradle out of
aluminum and use straps to hold the hole thing together. I also have
heavy bungees from the wing attach holes and around the tube and another
bungee around the leading edge tubes. I have blocks of high density foam
between the folded aeleron and the tail feathers to reduce the movement and
Heavier bungees on the pipe insulator tail holder. [] I haul mine
backwards --maybe less problems if going into the wind. Use light weight
springs and lower the airpressure in the trailer tires to get as much
suspension as possible. I have another block of foam between the prop and
the wing to keep the prop from moving. For long distances use the tie down
straps not rubber bungee cords.
Dale Seitzer
[]
Speaking of trailers, can anyone give me any feedback on the Kolb, open
trailer?
I plan to carry my Firestar about 200 miles on one of these rigs. How do
you
suggest
I secure the long tube down to the pedestal provided?
How about the wings staying in place with only the Kolb pin/tube?
Any other information appreciated.
Thanks
Bill Beam
FS, 503, Power Fin
Wilmore, Kentucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Powerfin Product Review |
Gentlemen:
Annexed is a product review of a 72" three bladed Powerfin prop I
recently installed.
Summary:
Fit and finish-- A
Instructions-- B+
Customer Service-- A
Hardware-- C
Performance- B+
Discussion
Background-- I decided to replace my three bladed IVO and elected to go with
a 72" Powerfin. I was influenced by the fact that it is both cheaper and
lighter than the comparable Warp Drive prop. I have a 582 with a 3.47:1 e
box. From a pricing standpoint Powerfin has positioned itself between Warp
and IVO. I paid $575.00 for my 3 bladed 72" Powerfin.
Fit and Finish-- The finish on the Powerfin blades is excellent. The
surface gloss is uniform and the sanding at the seamline of the mold is good.
The finish on the cast hub is good and the machining looks well done. The
prop looks great, and gives an overall impression of a very professional
package.
Instructions-- The Powerfin directions were quite clear and came with good
pictures. Stuart Gort, president of Powerfin, did not have a published pitch
setting for my particular engine/prop combination. I can't hold this against
him, as my particular set-up is a relative rarity. The Powerfin pitch
setting method is not as convenient as the quick adjust system on the IVO,
but on reflection I don't think this should be a real issue. The vast
majority of folks set their props once and never touch them again.
The Powerfin hub splits and the blades are laid into the hub, then the
top is put on. The top half of the hub has a small square window which
exposes a portion of the butt end of the blade which is captured in the hub.
The hub is made finger tight and then a steel pin, which is provided, is
shoved into a hole in the end of the blade which can be seen through the
window. The pin is pulled against the against the edge of the window and you
insert feeler gauges between the edge of the window and the pin to set the
pitch. The thickness of the feeler gauges controls the pitch and the
directions provide a chart correlating feeler gauge thickness and pitch.
This system is no where near as fast as the IVO quick adjust system, and
requires loosening of all the bolts on the prop. With my slow turning prop I
required 16.5 degrees of pitch, which actually placed the alignment hole
partially outside the window. I used a borrowed digital level to set the
pitch and it was quite easy. I would recommend the use of one of these
wonderful tools to anyone setting up a Powerfin. I was able to achieve the
desired static/dynamic numbers in three trial and error attempts.
It has been reported that the blades can actually turn slightly during
tightening which will move the pitch setting. This situation is made more
problematic because it's impossible to move the pin in the window when the
bolts are fully torqued. The Powerfin pitch setting system is generally
accurate, but sticklers who want to guarantee their blades are equally
pitched must cross check with another system. Stuart Gort reports that a
laser pointer rubber banded to the blade tip and shining on a piece of white
paper on the floor has also been used.
Customer service-- I had several telephone conversations with Stuart Gort
and found him to be pleasant, well informed, helpful and accessible. I had a
4 week wait for my prop, but it was delivered when promised.
Hardware-- The hardware that came with my prop was a disappointment. The
hub is held together with 6mm socket head grade 8 bolts. This is not an AN
bolt, though I am told it is comparable to that spec. It is an odd choice
for hardware, but as anyone who has a Rotax engine must also have a set of
metric socket head drivers to get off their exhaust manifold I cannot say
that the selection is irrational. My principal gripe is that the heads are
not drilled to accept safety wire. The instructions mention that you can
drill the heads if you like, but I know of no commercially available fixture
to accomplish that.
With no option for safety wire, locking washers and jam nuts are
provided. My beef with lock washers is that the aluminum hub has a slight
sand finish and the chisel-like beveled edge of the lock washers peels up
shavings of aluminum as they are tightened down, which is rather
disconcerting to watch. It also puts a scratch in the aluminum in a highly
stressed place which might crack down the road. I plan to install flat
washers between the hub and the lock washers. Powerfin also provides jam
nuts to go on the threads of the bolts projecting through the hub. This is
fine if you are satisfied with the system as delivered, but I think safety
wire is more reliable and more inspectable.
Performance-- A scientifically meaningful comparison between my old IVO
three blade and my current Powerfin is beyond the scope of this report, and
beyond my ability. Suffice it to say that I think they are generally
comparable. The principal performance parameter that I am interested in is
smoothness. Vibration is never a good thing in an airplane, and one of the
reasons I got rid of my IVO was a noticeable vibration between 5900 and 6000
rpm, which is right about where I like to cruise. It was a pain in the neck
to have to avoid that place in the RPM band. The Powerfin is smooth right up
to 6800, no resonance anywhere in the RPM curve. I should caution here that
no conclusions about vibration can be drawn generally about IVOs or Powerfins
from my experience. Different planes will resonate at different places.
There are simply too many variables in the equation to make blanket
statements.
Flexibility/weight. I had a three inch aluminum spacer on my IVO, which
was required because the 72" IVO is quite flexible and might contact the
trailing edge under load. So, while the IVO prop itself may be lighter than
the Powerfin, when you factor in the weight of the spacer, which is no longer
necessary because the Powerfin is quite stiff, the weights are roughly
comparable.
Sound. The comment from folks standing on the ground is that the noise
level is roughly the same as with the IVO, but a couple of people have
commented that the Powerfin has a slightly lower note. The three inch spacer
was reported by Kolb to have made the IVO much quieter, as well as providing
the necessary clearance. I do not detect a significant difference in noise
level.
Stuart Gort, president of Powerfin, responded to my review as follows:
Thanks for the unbiased review.
I'll address only two issues.
The hardware cannot be AN because it is metric. AN is an American standard.
The
zinc coating on the bolts supplied is as durable as the cadium II finish on
IVO's
or Warp's. They both purchase raw bolts and have the cad II finish applied to
make them LOOK like AN hardware. Rest assured they are not. I used to manage
Ivoprop and know this. Both companies run standard soft metric (grade 8.8
metric)
bolts with a cad II finish.
The drilled heads are far too difficult to get in any constistent supply.
There
is no company that supplies drilled head metric allan head cap screws in the
United States that I've ever been able to find. We did supply them once but it
required waiting for the bolts and then waiting for the drilling (seperate
companies). This was always a logistical nightmare and I discontinued the
service. You'll note that neither Warp or Ivo sells them. On top of that,
drilled
heads on the outside retaining bolts are useless. You can't get a piece of
wire
through the bolt head because of the design of the hub depending on the
position
of the screw head .
[Stuart is referring to the bolts that grip the blades where they go into
the flange, and he has a point. But I still wish I could safety wire the
bolts going into the flange. Maybe I'll buy an extra one from him and
experiment with drilling it myself. MRS]
I tested and had some movement of the screws with falat washers. I didn't get
a
chance to experiment much with different torque settings. When I used the
split
washers the problem disappeared.
[I am disappointed that Stuart did not address the problem of the scaring
of the hub by the lock washers. I think I will get thin AN washers and put
them between the lock washer and the hub. If I am able to drill the socket
head bolts I won't need the jam nuts on the other side and the additional
thickness won't make a difference. MRS]
Respectfully submitted to the group,
Mark Sellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer Electrical Connector |
>
>
> Speaking of trailers, can anyone give me any feedback on the Kolb, open
> trailer?
>
> I plan to carry my Firestar about 200 miles on one of these rigs. How do
you
> suggest
> I secure the long tube down to the pedestal provided?
>
> How about the wings staying in place with only the Kolb pin/tube?
Hi Bill,
I talked to a fellow this past October at the South Ms Fly-in that
bought a FS II and hauled it from way up the east coast to Florida. He
showed me some pictures of the plane after he had it ready to travel on a
open trailer and I believe I would do the same thing if hauling on a open
trailer. He purchase some plastic wrap from one of the big building supply
stores and completely wrapped the wings from tip to the fuselage cabin. If I
remember correctly it is approximately 12" wide and it will adhere to itself
where it overlaps. Once wrapped up everything is very secure. Good luck.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer Electrical Connector |
Thanks for all the trailer tips. I will give a progress report when I get
back.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Bad Day at Black Rock |
Hi Skip,
Sorry to hear about your misfortune! I am so glad you are okay! I would
agree with your conclusion that something went into the prop. Great job in
keeping your wits about you and flying the airplane. I'll comment more
later, but just wanted to say how glad I am you were able to walk away.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Skip Staub
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 10:28 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Bad Day at Black Rock
Gents,
For close to 50 years I've flown behind wooden props, mostly in a tractor
configuration, and for the past 15 years in my Kolb UltraStar. I've never
had any complaints with the wooden prop's balance and they certainly were
smoother running than metal props, especially on an engine such as the
Continental A-65.
Late Sunday evening (5 Mar) things changed. I was flying at about 200' in
smooth air returning to the airport and everything was just great until the
most severe shake that I've ever experienced in an airplane started. Until
I got the prop stopped, (just a few seconds, at most) I couldn't even focus
my eyes. My immediate concern was that the airplane would shake itself to
pieces before I could land.
I had one landing option, which looked like a good one until halfway
through roll out the main wheels went through some raised muddy tracks
caused by a farm tractor. When stopped, the poor 'lil UltraStar was
missing its left main gear and the left wing tip was damaged where it
struck the ground. The right wing has a large gaping hole in it just
forward of the right aileron where half of one prop blade (it was a
longitudinal break from near the hub to the prop tip) went up through the
bottom of the wing and out the top. I was very lucky that it didn't hit or
tear the aileron off.
After landing, the engine was still in place and attached to it's mount,
but the muffler and carb were just attached by safety wire as they were
shaken loose when the prop came apart. Had the airplane been other than a
Kolb design, I believe that I might not be here typing the story. :-)
Why the prop came apart I'm not sure of at this time. More attention to
the prop was paid on preflight than usual as I had just come from talking
to a group of powered parachute people that were discussing various prop
options. For that reason, I looked my prop and belt reduction drive over
more carefully than usual prior to start up. My best guess is that
something came off the airplane/engine and went through the prop.... but
what, I don't know.
Will it fly again? Probably not. As it stands, my first flight in it was
Jan 1985 and the last 5 Mar 2000.
Regards,
Skip
1984 Kolb UltraStar
1946 Globe Swift
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer Electrical Connector |
Bill, I'am still kolbless, but I do quite a bit of hauling of antique john
deere engines. the best advice i can give you is go with the 7- pole bargman
connector if you have electric brakes, if you don't which it sounds like, you
can still go with a 5-pole. this is a little time to set up as far as wiring
goes but well worth it. it consists of a male and a female large dia.
connector. the male connector is attached under the bumper of the vehicle and
female of course to the trailer. you have no wires hanging from the truck at
all. also a spring loaded cover on the male end protects any and all dust,
rain, moisture, anything. in the wintertime I put a little j.b. 80 inside to
protect it more, just as a preventive maintance measure. let me know if you
need a pic and i can sent you one. btw you can purchase these at northern
tool.
p.s. anyone want to trade a firestar for some antique engines.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
612-474-3540
BILLBEAM(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the trailer tips. I will give a progress report when I get
> back.
>
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling 8.8 and 12.2 Metric Bolts |
Mark and Kolbers:
Good report (Powerfin Prop).
No problem drilling 8.8 socket head bolts. I drill them
with a 3/32 drill bit and tapping oil. Slow the drill press
down to the slowest speed and take your time. They are not
grade 8, but softer. I just drilled some 12.2
(12.......something?) for mounting the 912S. No sweat.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johann G Johannsson <johann-g(at)tal.is> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
Hi Larry.
Thank you very much for you reply to my question about the Facet fuel pump.
I do not have a fuel gauge for my two tanks. It would be enough for me to have
only one gauge in one tank, because my tanks feed evenly to my engine, so there
is
always the same amount of fuel in both tanks. This is like John Jung suggested
to
the list, how he connected his tanks. It work great. The only thing I need to do
is install the facet pump and a on/off switch in the dash. No battery, just the
Key West regulator/rectifier. My pump is the max 5 psi.
I was told that I would not need the pressure regulator. ???
My plan was to install the Facet pump in parallel to the puls pump, bypassing the
squeeze pump and also the puls pump. Any comment about this setup would be good,
if there are any known problems or disadvantages with this setup.
Thank you again for your help.
Johann G.
Iceland.
FirestarII 40 hrs flying.
Larry & Karen Cottrel wrote:
>
> Johann,
> I have a facet fuel pump mounted in my Firestar II. I made the back seat
> out of a piece of alum. ( not so much to sit in as to stack stuff on) I
> mounted the pump to the bottom using carriage bolts on it so that it
> wouldnt snag stuff. I also have two fuel tanks and have routed them to a
> three position fuel switch located on a panel by my seat bottom, then to
> the fuel pump then to a Pressure regulator on to a squeeze bulb then to the
> fuel pulse pump that came with the 447. I have also put a "on - off
> swi;tch in the panel. With it routed under the seat, ( I wanted to be able
> to see my gauges and see the position of the selector switch) I do not turn
> off the fuel pump. Be aware that you can get a facet that will supply as
> much fuel pressure as you could want. ( mine is 5 psi I think) I also set
> the pressure regulator so that too much fuel pressure would not be
> delivered to the carb. I have flown one season with the above set up, and I
> am satisfied with it. I did try to use it as a "boost pump" at first, but
> on a steep climb out, it coughed once. I have never shut it off since. Not
> a recommendation, just what I have done and it works for me.
> Larry
>
> ----------
> > From: Johann <johann-g(at)tal.is>
> > To: Kolb fans
> > Subject: Kolb-List: Backup fuel pump installation
> > Date: Monday, March 06, 2000 5:06 PM
> >
> >
> > Hi listers.
> >
> > I am considering installing a Facet fuel pump in my Firestar II, as a
> > backup for the pulse pump. Has anyone installed this kind of fuel pump
> > in a Firestar, and if so, where did you place it? I know there are not
> > many places to put it, somewhere around the fuel tanks or under the
> > second seat. But the problem is to make some sort of bracket in the
> > cabin. If anyone has a good solution I would be very interested in your
> > installation method.
> >
> > Thank you in advance.
> >
> > Johann G
> > Firestar II
> > 40 hrs flying.
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
In a message dated 3/7/00 8:46:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, johann-g(at)tal.is
writes:
<< My pump is the max 5 psi.
I was told that I would not need the pressure regulator. ??? >>
Johan:
I would not recommend the 5 lb pump. I have a facet pump in my mark
three and after considerable digging around I learned that facet makes a 1.5
lb pump. That is the one you want. It is more than adequate to move the
fuel. What you want to avoid is a situation where the pump would overpower
the needle valve in the carb and flood the engine and stop it. As I
understand it the needle valve is good to 7 lbs. You don't want to get
anywhere near that number.
With a 1.5 lb pump I can forget to turn it off and not run a serious risk
of being anywhere near the edge of the envelope. As I recall the 1.5 lb pump
is identical to the more powerful ones. The only way you can tell is by the
serial number.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com> |
| Subject: | Trailer Electrical Connector |
How much is this Kolb open trailer going for?---
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
Building Mark III
Serial # MT99-3-00003
On Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:22:19 Spence, Steve wrote:
>
>Bill:
> Although I have an enclosed trailer, I use a nylon strap with a spring
buckle(alligator jaw sideways) wrapped around the tube and the pedestal where
it contacts the tube. Flat stock with pins at each end fits into the aileron
tubes, bungeed to long tube, to hold wings together on top. Saddle arrangement
at bottom supports leading edge.
> This seems to work well for my enclosed trailer situation, however, I
do not think I would be comfortable transporting my FF 200 miles out in the open
at any kind of reasonable highway type speeds. I can imagine all sorts of
evil lurking out there ready to do damage to my FF.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: BILLBEAM(at)aol.com@inetgw [mailto:BILLBEAM(at)aol.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 12:35 PM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com@inetgw
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Trailer Electrical Connector
>
>
>Speaking of trailers, can anyone give me any feedback on the Kolb, open
>trailer?
>
>I plan to carry my Firestar about 200 miles on one of these rigs. How do you
>suggest
>I secure the long tube down to the pedestal provided?
>
>How about the wings staying in place with only the Kolb pin/tube?
>
>Any other information appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>
>Bill Beam
>FS, 503, Power Fin
>Wilmore, Kentucky
>
>
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bad Day at Black Rock |
Skip,
Sorry to hear about your misfortune and am glad you are ok. You may want
to check the 8mm head bolts that secure the muffler bracket. Are all four
intact? I had one come loose and I replaced all of them with drilled
heads that can be secured with safety wire. The problem here is that it's
on top of the engine which makes it difficult to preflight. Secure them
with safety wire and the worries are gone.
Ralph
Original FireStar
writes:
>
>
> Gents,
>
> For close to 50 years I've flown behind wooden props, mostly in a
> tractor
> configuration, and for the past 15 years in my Kolb UltraStar. I've
> never
> had any complaints with the wooden prop's balance and they certainly
> were
> smoother running than metal props, especially on an engine such as
> the
> Continental A-65.
>
> Late Sunday evening (5 Mar) things changed. I was flying at about
> 200' in
> smooth air returning to the airport and everything was just great
> until the
> most severe shake that I've ever experienced in an airplane started.
> Until
> I got the prop stopped, (just a few seconds, at most) I couldn't
> even focus
> my eyes. My immediate concern was that the airplane would shake
> itself to
> pieces before I could land.
>
> I had one landing option, which looked like a good one until halfway
> through roll out the main wheels went through some raised muddy
> tracks
> caused by a farm tractor. When stopped, the poor 'lil UltraStar was
> missing its left main gear and the left wing tip was damaged where
> it
> struck the ground. The right wing has a large gaping hole in it
> just
> forward of the right aileron where half of one prop blade (it was a
> longitudinal break from near the hub to the prop tip) went up
> through the
> bottom of the wing and out the top. I was very lucky that it didn't
> hit or
> tear the aileron off.
>
> After landing, the engine was still in place and attached to it's
> mount,
> but the muffler and carb were just attached by safety wire as they
> were
> shaken loose when the prop came apart. Had the airplane been other
> than a
> Kolb design, I believe that I might not be here typing the story.
> :-)
>
> Why the prop came apart I'm not sure of at this time. More
> attention to
> the prop was paid on preflight than usual as I had just come from
> talking
> to a group of powered parachute people that were discussing various
> prop
> options. For that reason, I looked my prop and belt reduction drive
> over
> more carefully than usual prior to start up. My best guess is that
> something came off the airplane/engine and went through the prop....
> but
> what, I don't know.
>
> Will it fly again? Probably not. As it stands, my first flight in
> it was
> Jan 1985 and the last 5 Mar 2000.
>
> Regards,
> Skip
> 1984 Kolb UltraStar
> 1946 Globe Swift
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | APilot(at)webtv.net (Vic Gibson) |
| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Product Review |
good report.......thank you Mark. Vic Gibson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bad Day at Black Rock |
In a message dated 03/07/2000 10:43:09 AM Eastern Standard Time,
skipnann(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< For close to 50 years I've flown behind wooden props, >>
Skip,
Sorry to hear about your bad day with the UltraStar prop, but glad to see
that you made it safely back to mother earth.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
Hi,
I caught a bit of heat regarding using the two lines, making a redundant
system. I cannot speak for anyone but myself, but it seemed to me that if
one of the lines fail then they both have a chance of failing due to the
failure of the other one. Richard Pike believes that two lines should be
run, Hauck doesn't. I just disliked having that many fuel lines running all
over the plane. I put the squeeze bulb in to cut down on the time that I
had to wait for the fuel pump to presurize the system. To start I just turn
on the master, when the fuel pump starts to labor, I give the bulb a
squeeze and it is ready to start. I also felt that if there was a blockage
in the fuel system then I might be able to force some fuel into the carb
and keep my butt in the air a bit longer. As for the regulator, I wasn't
sure if overpressurization would be a problem and I had the regulator, so I
put it on and set it for 4 lbs. I believe that if anything will fail, it is
most likely to be the diaphram in the pulse pump. As for the
regulator/rectifier, I hope that you have better luck than I. I tried one
and it never was right, sent it back got another and I don't think that it
was workable either. I ended up having a close thing with a fire melting
the wiring off of my gps on takeoff. Seems that the things aren't able to
withstand 167 volts ac. It was pretty interesting for a while because my
takeoffs are pretty interesting too. Power lines, trees, down wind take off
stuff, like that. :-) I did put a starter in mine because of the hazardous
area that I have to fly in, so I have a 17 amp battery, but even if I
didn't plan on running a starter, I think that I would consider a 3 amp
battery just so that I could run my 12 volt stuff. I don't think that they
weigh that much.
Good luck
Larry
----------
> From: Johann G Johannsson <johann-g(at)tal.is>
> To: lcottrel(at)kfalls.ne; kolb fans
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Backup fuel pump installation
> Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 5:49 PM
>
>
> Hi Larry.
>
> Thank you very much for you reply to my question about the Facet fuel
pump.
> I do not have a fuel gauge for my two tanks. It would be enough for me to
have
> only one gauge in one tank, because my tanks feed evenly to my engine, so
there is
> always the same amount of fuel in both tanks. This is like John Jung
suggested to
> the list, how he connected his tanks. It work great. The only thing I
need to do
> is install the facet pump and a on/off switch in the dash. No battery,
just the
> Key West regulator/rectifier. My pump is the max 5 psi.
> I was told that I would not need the pressure regulator. ???
> My plan was to install the Facet pump in parallel to the puls pump,
bypassing the
> squeeze pump and also the puls pump. Any comment about this setup would
be good,
> if there are any known problems or disadvantages with this setup.
>
> Thank you again for your help.
>
> Johann G.
> Iceland.
> FirestarII 40 hrs flying.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trailer Electrical Connector |
In a message dated 03/07/2000 9:03:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
johndeereantique(at)uswest.net writes:
<< in the wintertime I put a little j.b. 80 inside to
protect it more, just as a preventive maintance measure. >>
Say Gary,
I know what WD 40 is, but never heard of j.b. 80. Is that something similar
or might it be an acronym for Jim Bean 80 proof?
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johann G Johannsson <johann-g(at)tal.is> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
Thank you Cavuontop.
I will definitely check the pump and make sure that I do not have too much
pressure.
A new pump or the pressure regulator.
Best regards.
Johann G.
Iceland.
Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/7/00 8:46:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, johann-g(at)tal.is
> writes:
>
> << My pump is the max 5 psi.
> I was told that I would not need the pressure regulator. ??? >>
>
> Johan:
>
> I would not recommend the 5 lb pump. I have a facet pump in my mark
> three and after considerable digging around I learned that facet makes a 1.5
> lb pump. That is the one you want. It is more than adequate to move the
> fuel. What you want to avoid is a situation where the pump would overpower
> the needle valve in the carb and flood the engine and stop it. As I
> understand it the needle valve is good to 7 lbs. You don't want to get
> anywhere near that number.
>
> With a 1.5 lb pump I can forget to turn it off and not run a serious risk
> of being anywhere near the edge of the envelope. As I recall the 1.5 lb pump
> is identical to the more powerful ones. The only way you can tell is by the
> serial number.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Product Review |
Avery Tool in Texas ( www.averytools.com ) makes a jig for drilling thru the
corners of nuts and bolts, and also one for drilling thru the threads. They
are Extremely Nice, and decent folks to do business with, too. I had
difficulty getting cutting oil down the tiny (1/16") hole to ease the
cutting, and being famously stub-bourne, broke a lot of those little 1/16"
bits. Gets expensive. Then a local veterinary who is also a member of my
EAA group gave me a syringe with a #18 needle. I ground the end of the
needle square - mainly to avoid any possible accidents; those things are
Sharp ! ! ! - and used it to put the cutting oil down where it was needed.
Works like a champ. I went from 1 - 2 bits per hole, to 12 holes per bit.
Good deal. For drilling the socket head screws on my re-drive, I had
trouble starting the bit on the round head, so came up with this - after
many broken bits............carefully mark the circumference of the head to
show where the flat is on the inside. Use a round file to make a groove in
the head, parallel to the flat for a place to start the bit. If the bit
doesn't come thru the first side squarely, it'll break when it tries to
start thru the off-square flat on the other side. Does that make sense ??
Sounds funny, but I don't know how else to describe it. Anyway, then I
drilled and tapped a hole in the end of a scrap of 3/8" aluminum , put a
nut on the socket head, threaded it into the hole almost all the way until
the filed flat was square to the bit, then tightened down the nut to hold it
there. Careful drilling on the press, and plenty of oil made it go like a
breeze. No more broken bits, and tho' it sounds like a chore, I had a lot
of them to do. It was very worth the effort. For the business
with the washers saving the aluminum from the lock washers, I ran into this
on boat motors, and tried the same thing. Trouble is, sometimes the washers
would turn, slipping on the aluminum. The effect was of having no lock
washer at all. I cured that by putting a little dab of the tough (red, I
think) loc-tite under the washer. It glued the washer to the aluminum, and
stopped the slipping. Don't use too much. If it oozes up under the nut,
you'll play hell getting AnyThing loose. If it runs down the shank of the
bolt, you'll have fun pulling the part off the stud. Hope all this
helps. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 12:48 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Powerfin Product Review
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> Annexed is a product review of a 72" three bladed Powerfin prop I
> recently installed.
>
. My principal gripe is that the heads are
> not drilled to accept safety wire. The instructions mention that you can
> drill the heads if you like, but I know of no commercially available
fixture
> to accomplish that.
>
> With no option for safety wire, locking washers and jam nuts are
> provided. My beef with lock washers is that the aluminum hub has a slight
> sand finish and the chisel-like beveled edge of the lock washers peels up
> shavings of aluminum as they are tightened down, which is rather
> disconcerting to watch. It also puts a scratch in the aluminum in a
highly
> stressed place which might crack down the road. I plan to install flat
> washers between the hub and the lock washers. Powerfin also provides jam
> nuts to go on the threads of the bolts projecting through the hub. This
is
> fine if you are satisfied with the system as delivered, but I think safety
> wire is more reliable and more inspectable.
>
> Performance-- A scientifically meaningful comparison between my old IVO
> three blade and my current Powerfin is beyond the scope of this report,
and
> beyond my ability. Suffice it to say that I think they are generally
> comparable. The principal performance parameter that I am interested in
is
> smoothness. Vibration is never a good thing in an airplane, and one of
the
> reasons I got rid of my IVO was a noticeable vibration between 5900 and
6000
> rpm, which is right about where I like to cruise. It was a pain in the
neck
> to have to avoid that place in the RPM band. The Powerfin is smooth right
up
> to 6800, no resonance anywhere in the RPM curve. I should caution here
that
> no conclusions about vibration can be drawn generally about IVOs or
Powerfins
> from my experience. Different planes will resonate at different places.
> There are simply too many variables in the equation to make blanket
> statements.
>
> Flexibility/weight. I had a three inch aluminum spacer on my IVO,
which
> was required because the 72" IVO is quite flexible and might contact the
> trailing edge under load. So, while the IVO prop itself may be lighter
than
> the Powerfin, when you factor in the weight of the spacer, which is no
longer
> necessary because the Powerfin is quite stiff, the weights are roughly
> comparable.
>
> Sound. The comment from folks standing on the ground is that the
noise
> level is roughly the same as with the IVO, but a couple of people have
> commented that the Powerfin has a slightly lower note. The three inch
spacer
> was reported by Kolb to have made the IVO much quieter, as well as
providing
> the necessary clearance. I do not detect a significant difference in
noise
> level.
>
> Stuart Gort, president of Powerfin, responded to my review as follows:
>
> Thanks for the unbiased review.
>
> I'll address only two issues.
>
> The hardware cannot be AN because it is metric. AN is an American
standard.
> The
> zinc coating on the bolts supplied is as durable as the cadium II finish
on
> IVO's
> or Warp's. They both purchase raw bolts and have the cad II finish applied
to
> make them LOOK like AN hardware. Rest assured they are not. I used to
manage
> Ivoprop and know this. Both companies run standard soft metric (grade 8.8
> metric)
> bolts with a cad II finish.
>
> The drilled heads are far too difficult to get in any constistent supply.
> There
> is no company that supplies drilled head metric allan head cap screws in
the
> United States that I've ever been able to find. We did supply them once
but it
> required waiting for the bolts and then waiting for the drilling (seperate
> companies). This was always a logistical nightmare and I discontinued the
> service. You'll note that neither Warp or Ivo sells them. On top of that,
> drilled
> heads on the outside retaining bolts are useless. You can't get a piece of
> wire
> through the bolt head because of the design of the hub depending on the
> position
> of the screw head .
>
> [Stuart is referring to the bolts that grip the blades where they go
into
> the flange, and he has a point. But I still wish I could safety wire the
> bolts going into the flange. Maybe I'll buy an extra one from him and
> experiment with drilling it myself. MRS]
>
> I tested and had some movement of the screws with falat washers. I didn't
get
> a
> chance to experiment much with different torque settings. When I used the
> split
> washers the problem disappeared.
>
> [I am disappointed that Stuart did not address the problem of the
scaring
> of the hub by the lock washers. I think I will get thin AN washers and
put
> them between the lock washer and the hub. If I am able to drill the
socket
> head bolts I won't need the jam nuts on the other side and the additional
> thickness won't make a difference. MRS]
>
> Respectfully submitted to the group,
>
> Mark Sellers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
I added up my builders log tonight and wondered how I compared. I totaled
61 1/2 hours. I have completed both elevators,both horizontal
stabs,vertical stab,rudder, and the big boy...left wing (whew!) The boom
tube has been temporarly installed for hole location and the tail surface
hinges are made and attached(temporarly). The nose cone has been fitted and
rivet holes located and drilled. I didn't include time making my custom seat
setup , or head scratching for the float mounts. Also didn't include times
I rewatched the demo video and making airplane noises.
Sound about right???
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com
P.S. Didn't include web page making time either.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
Richard Pike no longer believes that two lines are necessary. I set it up
originally according to the diagram in the back of the CPS book, with dual
parallel systems and a regulator, but after talking to Hauck at Oshkosh,
redid it the following winter, eliminating the dual fuel lines and the
pressure regulator, and it works just fine. I have the Facet pump down at
the lower sump area of the tank behind the passenger seat, it feeds the
pulse pump which is next to the engine. The Facet pump shows three pounds
pressure on the fuel pressure gauge, and I let it run continuously while
the engine is running, although I do flip it off during runup to check if
the pulse pump is still working. It primes the carbs nicely to start. So I
am a convert to the Facet pump to pulse pump to carbs "straight shot" system.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Hi,
> I caught a bit of heat regarding using the two lines, making a redundant
>system. I cannot speak for anyone but myself, but it seemed to me that if
>one of the lines fail then they both have a chance of failing due to the
>failure of the other one. Richard Pike believes that two lines should be
>run, Hauck doesn't. I just disliked having that many fuel lines running all
>over the plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brain Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
I have a fuel gauge and a 5 lb. facet pump. The impulse pump will run at
about 7 psi at maximum rpm.
I have not had a problem overpowering the needle valve in the carb, maybe I
am just lucky but I have run this
setup for 300 hours. I like the fuel gauge on my dash as it keeps me
informed on the condition of my fuel delivery
system.
Kim Steiner (Mark 111, 582 Rotax)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Backup fuel pump installation
>
> In a message dated 3/7/00 8:46:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
johann-g(at)tal.is
> writes:
>
> << My pump is the max 5 psi.
> I was told that I would not need the pressure regulator. ??? >>
>
>
> Johan:
>
> I would not recommend the 5 lb pump. I have a facet pump in my mark
> three and after considerable digging around I learned that facet makes a
1.5
> lb pump. That is the one you want. It is more than adequate to move the
> fuel. What you want to avoid is a situation where the pump would
overpower
> the needle valve in the carb and flood the engine and stop it. As I
> understand it the needle valve is good to 7 lbs. You don't want to get
> anywhere near that number.
>
> With a 1.5 lb pump I can forget to turn it off and not run a serious
risk
> of being anywhere near the edge of the envelope. As I recall the 1.5 lb
pump
> is identical to the more powerful ones. The only way you can tell is by
the
> serial number.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
So I
> am a convert to the Facet pump to pulse pump to carbs "straight shot" system.
> Richard Pike
Folks:
I ran this same set up on 447, 582, 912, and it will run on
the 912S. Never had a problem. I use the Facet to prime
and start, on takeoff, landing, and when flying low level.
I have also converted from vinyl, urethane, and/or clear
plastic fuel line, to automotive black neoprene fuel line.
Neoprene is not nearly so UV sensitive and last almost
indefinitely. The clear/blue stuff has a habit of
deteriorating quickly and will fail even when it looks like
it is still serviceable. I got the factory Fire Fly ready
to fly last Sep at London, Ky. During my preflight I
noticed the fuel line had separated at the fuel inlet to the
carb. I had flown this airplane at Oshkosh the month
before. This is only one incident among many with this type
fuel line that I have used since the beginning of my
ultralighting, 1984. I do not use the clear stuff on any
other application, i.e., boat, truck, tractor. I did use it
on my Onan generator I have mounted in the back of my truck
for my 5th wheel. The line was constantly exposed to the
sun from the fuel tank forward to the generator in the
rear. Was unusual to get six months life out of it. On the
other hand, I still have some blue urethane fuel line in my
MK III that has been there since the airplane was built in
1992. It runs from the bottom of the fuel tank to the Facet
pump, also under the tank. It is still nearly as good as
new, but it never sees sunlight. However, it is coming out
and being replaced with neoprene before I fly again.
Another example of vinyl tubing: Used it for pitot/static
lines for instruments. Recently had problems with high
indicated air speeds. After 8 years or less, the tubing had
separated between the static source of the altimeter, VSI,
and ASI. These are hidden from the sun, but exposed to high
heat from the sun under the nose pod behind the instrument
panel. I am also switching to neoprene vacuum line for
pitot and static pressure lines.
Still getting loose ends tied up on the MK III. Also
getting ready for Sun and Fun which is right around the
corner. Hope to see everybody down there. We are gonna
have a good time. Should be in for some pleasant surprises
this year.
If you missed seeing the Oshkosh Grand Champion Light Plane
in 1998, you will have a chance to see it at Lakeland this
year. Dan Horton will be flying it down to have it judged.
It is a beautiful scratch built Jenny with Geo Metro 3 cyl
engine. We have high hopes for Dan's Jenny.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <NeilsenR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
I also use a facet pump in series with my engine pump on my VW powered MKIII with
Weber carbs. I have no problems over powereing the floats.
It may have been a fluke but I put a facet pump in my son's old Honda the pump
lasted about three weeks and it was dead.
Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII 23hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | Ultralight Crash |
Kolbers,
Just caught on local radio station about a ultralight crash in Murry
county Ga.
N.W. Ga. near Ga. Tenn. Line, taking the lives of 2, names being withheld.
Witness observed aircraft nose down on impact.
JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Morning Gang:
Looks like the boys in North Georgia and North Tennessee are
keeping the Feds busy this morning. Both aircraft
unregistered UL's??? A Titan and a two place (unk type).
The two fatalities in Chatsworth, Ga, are just up the road
from John Russell's location in Rome, Ga. John tell's me
there is another 912S powered Sling Shot and Mark III flying
in his area. Both new airplanes are show quality, including
John's (my comment about John's Sling Shot, and his comment
about the two new Kolbs).
john h
**** 03/08/2000 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data
Record RECORD 1 ****
A. Type: Accident Mid Air:N Missing:N Entry date:
03/08/2000
From: SOUTHERN REGION OPERATIONS CENTER
B. Reg.No.: UNREG M/M: ULTR Desc: ULTRALIGHT
(TITAN)
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Unknown GA-A/C: Other
Descr: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT CRASHED ON GLOVER ROAD UNDER
UNKNOWN
CIRCUMSTANCES AND WAS DESTROYED, OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES
ARE UNKNOWN,
SPRINGFIELD, TN.
WX: METAR KBNA 071953Z 22008KT 10SM BNK250 25/05 A3017
Damage: Destroyed
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0
Min: 1 Unk:
# Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0
Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0
Min: 0 UNK:
D. Location City: SPRINGFIELD State: TN
E. Occ Date: 03/07/2000 Time: 21:20
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: SO03 DO CTY: NASHVILLE
DO State: TN Others:
G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: UNKN Dep Date: / /
Time:
Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: N
Other:
AAI IIC:
**** 03/08/2000 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data
Record RECORD 2 ****
A. Type: Accident Mid Air:N Missing:N Entry date:
03/08/2000
From: SOUTHERN REGION OPERATIONS CENTER
B. Reg.No.: UNREG M/M: ULTR Desc: ULTRALIGHT
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Unknown GA-A/C: Other
Descr: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT CLIPPED TREES AND CRASHED,
THE 2 POB
SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES ARE
UNKNOWN,
CHATSWORTH, GA.
WX: DNN 080000Z AUTO 00000KT 10SM CLR 19/03 A3018 Damage:
Unknown
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0
Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0
Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0
Min: 0 UNK:
D. Location City: CHATSWORTH State: GA
E. Occ Date: 03/07/2000 Time: 23:40
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: SO11 DO CTY: ATLANTA
DO State: GA Others:
G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: UNKN Dep Date: / /
Time:
Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: N
Other:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brain Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
Let me clarify my previous post;
It should have read:
I like the fuel "PRESSURE" gauge on my dash --------
The facet pump runs very close to 5 psi.
>
> I have a fuel "PRESSURE" gauge and a 5 lb. facet pump. The impulse pump
will run at
> about 7 psi at maximum rpm.
> I have not had a problem overpowering the needle valve in the carb, maybe
I
> am just lucky but I have run this
> setup for 300 hours. I like the fuel "PRESSURE" gauge on my dash as it
keeps me
> informed on the condition of my fuel delivery
> system.
>
> Kim Steiner (Mark 111, 582 Rotax)
>
The facet pump
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
is it possible
> to run one of these pumps from the electric output from the engine like many
> Bruce E. Harrison
Bruce and Gang:
On the 447, I ran the Facet pump, without battery, from the
12V side of the reg/rec thru a toggle switch to the pump.
Works well. Only penalty, without battery, is the
requirement to keep the primer bulb in the system to fill
the float bowl after the aircraft has sat for a period of
time (days).
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bil Ragsdale" <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
The pumps designed for the old English auto's like MG's and Healy's used low
pressure electric fuel pumps. The pressure was typically 3.5 to 4 psi.
That's all the umph the old SU carbs could take without lifting the needle
off the seat. I installed a low pressure facet pump on the Mk III. I
intend to only use it for start, take off and landing. Can't tell the
difference in EGT at any power setting with it on or off. Must be about the
same pressure as the little diaphragm pump that came with the Hirth engine.
----- Original Message -----
From: Brain Kim Steiner <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Backup fuel pump installation
>
> Let me clarify my previous post;
> It should have read:
>
> I like the fuel "PRESSURE" gauge on my dash --------
>
> The facet pump runs very close to 5 psi.
>
>
>
> >
> > I have a fuel "PRESSURE" gauge and a 5 lb. facet pump. The impulse
pump
> will run at
> > about 7 psi at maximum rpm.
> > I have not had a problem overpowering the needle valve in the carb,
maybe
> I
> > am just lucky but I have run this
> > setup for 300 hours. I like the fuel "PRESSURE" gauge on my dash as it
> keeps me
> > informed on the condition of my fuel delivery
> > system.
> >
> > Kim Steiner (Mark 111, 582 Rotax)
> >
>
> The facet pump
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
Attach it to the boom tube below and in front of the the fuel tank(s).
Install a seperate switch to operate. Run fuel lines in series with the
pulse pump. Install per your own risk.
Firehawk
>From: Johann <johann-g(at)tal.is>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: Kolb fans
>Subject: Kolb-List: Backup fuel pump installation
>Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 01:06:32 +0000
>
>
>Hi listers.
>
>I am considering installing a Facet fuel pump in my Firestar II, as a
>backup for the pulse pump. Has anyone installed this kind of fuel pump
>in a Firestar, and if so, where did you place it? I know there are not
>many places to put it, somewhere around the fuel tanks or under the
>second seat. But the problem is to make some sort of bracket in the
>cabin. If anyone has a good solution I would be very interested in your
>installation method.
>
>Thank you in advance.
>
>Johann G
>Firestar II
>40 hrs flying.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
I am kicking around what to do with instruments for my M3. I am considering
price vs. panel space vs. function for individual instruments vs. EIS
system. Depending on where you buy the individual instruments and what you
buy then the EIS isn't too pricey. I have heard good things about the
Westach units , any comments??? What would be essential and what would be
"nice to have" with a 912 package??? I am going to build a stepped out
panel for my plane ala Cliff Stripling so room won't be as tight as in the
stock nose cone panel...but still won't have room for a TV or nothing. Any
experience with the Microflight guages that Aircraft Spruce sells???
Don't intend this to be a huge discussion so if you would like you could
respond off list and I will summarize what I'm told back to the list...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/home.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
>
>I added up my builders log tonight and wondered how I compared.
I built a little stop clock when building my Twinstar. Started it every
time I went to work on the project and truned it off when I finished. I then
wrote down what I accomplished. Grand total 147hrs add less than 10hrs more
for painting. Sounds like you are right on target. Doing a lot better than
some on the list. Big Lar has that much time just in covering.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
I couldn't help but do some thinking about the fact that there isn't much
firestar stuff on the list. I have a few ideas, pick the one that suits
you.
---Firestars are simpler and therefore do not need detailed instruction to
fly and build?
---Firestar builders are much smarter than the guys that build the large
Mark III.?
---Firestar builders are not as likely to whine and complain when things
don't go their way?
---Not everyone who has a problem identifies the type of plane that they
are working on. So therefore a lot of "problems" are about Kolbs in
general?
---Or, some people like to bitch?
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
In a message dated 3/7/00 8:03:02 PM, rpike(at)preferred.com writes:
<< Richard Pike no longer believes that two lines are necessary. I set it up
originally according to the diagram in the back of the CPS book, with dual
parallel systems and a regulator, but after talking to Hauck at Oshkosh,
redid it the following winter, eliminating the dual fuel lines and the
pressure regulator, and it works just fine. >>
Richard and fellow Kolbers,
I too have a "series" connection which works just fine. I use it to fill the
carb bowls prior to start and turn it off for warm up and taxi. I turn it
back on for takeoff and other low altitude flying and turn it off as part of
the after takeoff check.
My only nagging concern would be: What happens if the diaphragm on the pulse
pump gives out? Of course you would be supplying fuel with the facet pump,
but would you be squirting fuel out the weep hole, or worse yet into the
pulse line??
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I can't find my rotax manual, can someone tell me the correct flex/tension
for the fan belt on the 503. Might anybody also remember the nut size as long
as we are at it to losen the fan pulley.
thanks
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | another new 4 stroke engine |
A little advertisement on page 45 of the march Experimenter magixine from
the EAA has a 60 HP 4 stroke 2 cylander opposed engine with a total
installed weight of 98 pounds. It is called the Hexadyne P60 from a company
called Hexatron. Anybody heard of this one? ad says making its world debut
at Oshkosh 2000.
Topher
Engine hunting for My FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Backup fuel pump installation |
The Facet fuel pump runs on 12V DC. Try a Key West Regulator/Rectifier,
they apparently do not need a battery to do their thing, hook the Facet to it.
I just got one, replaced the original reg/rect, hooking it up soon.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>I am getting in late on this facet fuel pump discussion, but is it possible
>to run one of these pumps from the electric output from the engine like many
>people do with strobes? Or is it necessary to have a battery, filtered
>power, etc? I would like to have one, but not at the weight penalty of full
>electrical system.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Having used a Facet pump on my (undesignated model Kolb) for three years
now, let me share a couple things.
I originally planned to use it as a back up in case the pulse pump failed,
and as a boost pump on takeoffs and landings.
Not a chance.
I turn it on before starting, and it fills the carb float bowls nice as you
please, you can hear it clicking busily until the float bowls fill up, then
the float needles seat, and the pump lugs down a bit. Cannot imagine
wanting a primer bulb, this 532 starts WAY easier than the last one I had
on the J-6 (which used a primer bulb). Are there some Kolbers on the list
that have Facet pumps, and still need a primer bulb? If you do, then by all
means use one, it just seems to me that a primer bulb is merely a crude
hand pump...
After I get the engine warmed up, I turn the Facet off, to check if the
pulse pump is working, then I turn it back on.
Until the flight ends at the next parking slot.
I do not think of it as back up, I think of it as redundancy.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
Good question. Seems like the maintainance page calls for replacing that
puppy annually, and I am due.
If I can remember to order a new one, I will poke a little hole in the old
one and see what it does.
Will post to the list if/when I find out.
Or maybe someone else is getting ready to replace theirs, and will try a
test and let us all know?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>My only nagging concern would be: What happens if the diaphragm on the pulse
>pump gives out? Of course you would be supplying fuel with the facet pump,
>but would you be squirting fuel out the weep hole, or worse yet into the
>pulse line??
>
>Bill George
>Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
You can read about it at:
http://www.dougstone.com/new/news/news.htm
> Does anyone on the list know of an accident in Tennessee that was reported
> this morning on the Atlanta TV stations. They reported that country singer
> Doug Stone was injured in the crash of a single seat ultralight. Injuries
> were fairly serious but not life threatening. One picture was in the woods
> of a fuselage without the wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
In a message dated 3/8/00 9:04:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
WGeorge737(at)aol.com writes:
<< Of course you would be supplying fuel with the facet pump,
but would you be squirting fuel out the weep hole, or worse yet into the
pulse line?? >>
Bill:
That is a very interesting question. Keep in mind that under normal
circumstances the fuel does not go out the pulse side-- either out the weep
hole or up the pulse line. But in the event of a catastrophic failure of the
mikuni pump I have no idea what would happen. I have a suspicion based on
the position of the exit of the pulse line that if it was pressurized by the
facet pump that fuel would not be able to get into the engine. But I have no
idea really. Interesting possible failure mode. I have never heard of it
happening.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | APilot(at)webtv.net (Vic Gibson) |
| Subject: | Re: primer bulb bypass |
Primer or fuel bulbs fail also because some are not resistant to alcohol
contamination. Those old type bulbs will get hard and crack and the
vacuum required to pull the fuel from non-gravity systems will go away
and so will the fuel supply. Only happen to me once on a Hummer.
Landed in a tomato field. Lucky me, they just harvested the week
before. Life is good. Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad Day at Black Rock |
Skip,
Sorry to hear about your frightening mishap. Very glad you came out
okay. As you describe a damaged left wing tip area and a big ol hole
in the right wing, that doesn't sound too bad to me. Maybe it is just
not something you are all too crazy about at this point in time?
As for Ultrastars in particular, I would sure think they are a good
plane for tougher skinned composite props, what with the prop turning
so close to the gravel and tire trash. As well, the prop is right
behind the pilot and a typically uncovered cage -- so the prop gets it
all. Brother Mike learned that he needed to clear his pockets as part
of his US pre-flight. I would add that Foreign Object paranoia is the
main reason I fly with a composite prop, and the FS has fewer of the
pusher prop risks than the US. This is not to sound judgemental of
those flying wood prop pushers -- but what with more composite options
out there now, their good track record, and in light of Skip's rough
ride, isn't it time to reconsider? A few more bucks for safety is
money well spent.
-Ben Ransom
--- Skip Staub wrote:
>
>
> Gents,
>
> For close to 50 years I've flown behind wooden props, mostly in a
> tractor
> configuration, and for the past 15 years in my Kolb UltraStar. I've
> never
> had any complaints with the wooden prop's balance and they certainly
> were
> smoother running than metal props, especially on an engine such as
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
| Subject: | Wood vs. Composite (from: Bad Day at Black Rock) |
Thanks for the report Skip. In 50 years of flying, you're bound to have a
couple of these. Like all the rest on the list, I am very glad nothing
more serious happened.
My reactions include the following:
1) Glad you're still around.
2) Does your plane have a ballistic 'chute?
3) Re-iterate to myself the importance of a thorough pre-flight.
4) I am going to seriously re-think my opinion that a wood prop was a
better choice for my UltraStar.
I had been of the opinion that with the weak landing gear and proximity of
the prop to the ground, I would stick with a cheaper wooden prop for my
UltraStar. I figured sooner or later I would likely break the prop and
need to replace it. I did, however, choose to use one with the urethane
leading edge, as somewhat of a compromise--the votex on the ground *does*
suck up small to course-sized sand that pits the leading edge.
I broke a prop once during an engine test run. A loose bungee cord swung
down and just ticked the propeller, maybe twice. One hit put a moderate
dent in the leading edge, but the more destructive one occurred where the
blade was struck in the middle of the flat side. The latter produced a
quite a long longitudinal crack, which of course opens up the possibility
of losing a very large chunk of the prop. Mine stayed mostly together,
even tho it occurred at full power. So, with John's comment about the
urethane L/E delaminating, and the combination of your story and my
experience above, I'm thinking now that a composite prop is probably a
better idea.
Another thought on the composite vs. wood is that I myself *have* had prop
ballance problems with the wood prop that could have been avoided with a
composite. The UltraStar in particular necessesitates storing the prop in
the vertical position if it must be stored in the wings-folded mode.
Moisture (maybe) and any oils absorbed by the prop would then migrate to
the lower prop, particularly if the plane doesn't get out much. (That's
me! :) )
I'm a little dismayed to hear the reports of muffler mount items being
known to come off on the U/S. I myself haven't lost anything, but I have
experienced muffler mount cracks. The worst thing I did once was to forget
to remove a 1/4" bolt from my jacket pocket once. I can't remember now if
that came out or not, but it's a sobering thought even now just thinking
about the possibility. Given the pusher configuration, the absense of any
enclosure, and the vertical storage position of the prop, I think now that
the UltraStar probably *should* be set up with a composite prop, regardless
of the expense and risk of loosing it.
I'm also thinking that the retrofit of the U/S with the F/S gear legs would
be a good idea, especially if greater prop clearance is also achieved--the
idea being that you would be less likely to wreck the prop due to gear
breakage or lack of clearance. I would have done this but for the fact
that I've long wanted to re-design / re-build the landing gear on my U/S
myself.
Side note: There was a thread a month or two ago regarding CrMo / Ti
landing gear. I missed the chance to chime in. Just want to mention that
Experimenter had a cover page article once about a re-built Ultrastar which
got a nice gear mod. I'll try to get back with the issue number.
Basically, the designer nested 3 different lengths of 4130 tubing to
effectively achieve a tapered structure, then had it heat treated to a
springier temper. Also went longer. Don't know about the weight. Almost
certainly more, but perhaps not--if you can absorb load over gear travel
distance, you can potentially absorb greater impact with same weight. With
the stock (rigid) U/S gear, it's very strong but tends to fail completely
once it goes. I think something that goes beyond elastic limit while still
absorbing lots of energy (eg. steel or Al) is good, because you can still
avoid complete structure failure while only designing up to normal
operating load limits, saving weight (tho you bend a part). The tapered Al
shaft of the more recent Kolbs is a very good design--light, simple to
build, cheap, strong. My opinion is that you would have to sacrifice in
one of those areas to do better. Many of us toy around with ideas of how
to improve the Kolb design here and there, but it is an amazingly difficult
thing to do given those criteria. The UltraStar has it's problems but it's
a great plane; the Firestar, etc. have "fixed" those problems.
I think it's extremely unfortunate when our discussions have to deal with
this largely artificial trade off between weight and safety. Weight/safety
items that have come up in this thread include landing gear strength,
engine safety cable and ballistic parachute. Propeller weight could have
been in there too. Thank goodness the FAA has at least given us the
allowance for the 'chute. Skip came damn close to the point where a 'chute
would have been his saving grace. Right up there with the slow landing
speed, the ballistic 'chute is the ultralight's saving grace and I think
everyone should have one.
Skip, I'm not a religious person, but it's one of those "There but before
the grace of God go I" kind of things. 50 years of flying has got to have
made for a lot of interesting and fun experiences. You're one of the lucky
ones and you should be proud and thankful for it, which I'm sure you are.
Sounds like your plane is repairable. Is it? Did the cage get bent/broke?
Be sure to let us know what the prop or anything else tells you.
Thanks again for the info. I'm sure it will have a positive effect on the
safety of my flying as well as the others on the list.
-Mike Ransom
>
>Skip,
>Sorry to hear about your frightening mishap. Very glad you came out
>okay. As you describe a damaged left wing tip area and a big ol hole
>in the right wing, that doesn't sound too bad to me. Maybe it is just
>not something you are all too crazy about at this point in time?
>
>As for Ultrastars in particular, I would sure think they are a good
>plane for tougher skinned composite props, what with the prop turning
>so close to the gravel and tire trash. As well, the prop is right
>behind the pilot and a typically uncovered cage -- so the prop gets it
>all. Brother Mike learned that he needed to clear his pockets as part
>of his US pre-flight. I would add that Foreign Object paranoia is the
>main reason I fly with a composite prop, and the FS has fewer of the
>pusher prop risks than the US. This is not to sound judgemental of
>those flying wood prop pushers -- but what with more composite options
>out there now, their good track record, and in light of Skip's rough
>ride, isn't it time to reconsider? A few more bucks for safety is
>money well spent.
>-Ben Ransom
>
>--- Skip Staub wrote:
>>
>>
>> Gents,
>>
>> For close to 50 years I've flown behind wooden props, mostly in a
>> tractor
>> configuration, and for the past 15 years in my Kolb UltraStar. I've
>> never
>> had any complaints with the wooden prop's balance and they certainly
>> were
>> smoother running than metal props, especially on an engine such as
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood vs. Composite (from: Bad Day at Black |
Rock)
Hello Mike,
I wish to thank you and all of the others that have sent me messages, many
through the list and many more private.
Thanks for the genuine concern and thank you for your collective wisdom in
the trouble shooting area.
>My reactions include the following:
>1) Glad you're still around.
Me too! :-)
>2) Does your plane have a ballistic 'chute?
No it doesn't. I never thought that I would need one due to the structural
integrity of the UltraStar's design. In this case, I was getting pretty
close to needing one.
>3) Re-iterate to myself the importance of a thorough pre-flight.
Ditto.
>4) I am going to seriously re-think my opinion that a wood prop was a
>better choice for my UltraStar.
I stuck with the wood prop for EXACTLY the same reasons you did. The prop
that came apart was a good prop made by "Culver" with the reenforced
leading edge. If I rebuild, you can bet "your bottom dollar" that the new
prop will be a composite prop of some kind.
>Another thought on the composite vs. wood is that I myself *have* had prop
>ballance problems with the wood prop that could have been avoided with a
>composite.
This certainly can be a problem if the aircraft is stored outside. My
aircraft has always been hangared, and for the most part, it has only had
to have one wing folded to fit in the hangar; thus allowing the prop to
stow in the horizontal position. Again balance has never been a problem.
>I'm a little dismayed to hear the reports of muffler mount items being
>known to come off on the U/S.
I had never heard of this either! I just came back from the airport and
brought the wings home with me. While at the airport I looked over the
muffler and am pretty sure that it was one of those large bolts/bushings
that bolt the muffler to the muffler mount on the airframe.. One
bolt/bushing is completely missing and the other has the rubber bushing
destroyed and is about to fall out. The mounts to the cylinder head are
intact. The springs that hold the flexible couplings on the exhaust
together all have one end broken off and were retained only by safety wire.
> II think now that
>the UltraStar probably *should* be set up with a composite prop, regardless
>of the expense and risk of loosing it.
I totally agree.
>I'm also thinking that the retrofit of the U/S with the F/S gear legs would
>be a good idea, especially if greater prop clearance is also achieved--
In retrospect, I too think that it would be a good idea. I have toyed with
that idea in the past and even discussed it with Dennis. If I had the new
gear, I doubt that it would have folded when the tire ran through the tire
track. I didn't have the new gear and it wasn't installed only because it
would add a bit more weight, which I didn't want, and the fact that I
trusted my ability to land without causing damage to what all UltraStar
owners agree is a weak point in the design. Even so, it is better to have
a gear fold than to have a good gear and a bent cage. :-)
>I think it's extremely unfortunate when our discussions have to deal with
>this largely artificial trade off between weight and safety.
In my case, (my aircraft weighs 242#) I chose not to make it heavier not
because of safety so much as performance.
>Sounds like your plane is repairable. Is it? Did the cage get bent/broke?
> Be sure to let us know what the prop or anything else tells you.
The plane is definitely repairable. The left wing will have to have the
tip rebuilt and possibly splice another section of tubing into the leading
edge. I'll know more when I get the fabric off. The right wing will need
at least one new rib (destroyed by the prop) and not much else. When I
have time I'll look at the engine mounts and the cage more closely. At
this time, it looks like they survived in good shape. The left gear will
have to be completely rebuilt and while I'm at it, I'll probably do the
right gear also as it has a slight bend in it.
There is not much that I can say with regard to the prop. About 2 or 3
inches from the prop tip there is evidence of something striking the
leading edge. The prop split from that point longitudinally almost all the
way to the prop hub. There are also a few other minor dings and scrapes on
the prop that weren't there before the flight. It looks as if more than
one thing went through the prop.
Regards,
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G. Johannsson" <johann-g(at)tal.is> |
| Subject: | Help with Facet pump appreciated. |
Hi to all Kolb helpers.
I would like to thank you all who responded to my problem with the Facet
pump installation. Lots of great installation methods. Now we do have a
good source of information on this subject in the archives. It is just
sooooo good to know of all the good people on this list, that are always
ready to help a fellow builder.
Best regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
Firestar II. 40 hrs. flying. (soon again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dama Riddick <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
A note about build times, I have a FS II, factory powdercoat job and
pre-built ribs. I too have kept track of only labor hours and did not count
mistakes where I had to repeat tasks. In other words, I hope to have time
figure representing strictly the construction of the airplane. Things
remaining include: painting tail pieces, covering wings, installing engine
and hopefully not many finishing details. Total time thus far 278.2 hours.
(P.S. If one counts mistake and pondering time, It seems that the
advertised time of about 500 hours is about right)
Kip Laurie
FS-705
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Backup fuel pump installation |
Johan -
I installed a Facet electric fuel pump as a backup for my Mark-3. (Darn
thing is kinda heavy - but I hear they're fairly rugged.) Here's how I
did it: I mounted the pump to a bracket (basically, just a flat
aluminum plate, 1-inch by 4-inches by .063 thick.)
Then I mounted that bracket between a couple of the steel tubes of the
cage sidewall, near the fuel tanks and somewhat level with the bottom of
the fuel tanks. (This worked for a Mark-3; hopefully the Firestar cage
structure offers a similar opportunity.) The bracket is attached using
4 Adel clamps, two on each end of the alum bracket.
Orient the bracket so that the flow axis of the pump points 45 degrees
upward, per instructions that came with the pump. I used rubber
grommets between the pump and the bracket for vibration isolation. Hope
this helps.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, s/n 300, 80 finished
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Question was asked about rumors of Doug Stone crashing. It was on Av Web
today. He did indeed crash a Titan UL? He was reported to be flying about
125 feet above trees and lost power. He was able to "limp" away.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cajwoods(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: rats bee-hind ... |
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rats bee-hind ...
>
> Kinda makes you wonder. I would have said that FireStars and Mk IIIs
were
> about evenly covered. Some days there's more on one, some days more on
the
> other. If that yo-yo had watched for a few days, he mighta learned
> something. The ones I haven't noticed much talk about are the FireFly
and
> SlingShot
Hi Lar,
new to the kolb list but thought I would reply. Just finished building and
flowned for about 10 hrs Slingshot with 912S, man I cant describe to you
what this thing is like, but I'll try anyway. Climbout on cool mornings,
About 23-25 fpm, 4800 rpm cruise, about 90-95 indicated. Flying into the
wind at 5500 rpm for about 10 miles, 98 kts gs. Turn around and come
straight back. 134 kts gs according to trusty magellen GPS. What an
adrenaline RUSH! My brother has 912S powered MkIII which is also equally
impressive. Finished both within a week apart. I test flew both aircraft.
Both been flying for about 2-3 weeks. Hope to see you and all the gang at
sun-n-fun,
Bill Woods
cajwoods(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cajwoods(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need a home. |
----- Original Message -----
From: <monte84(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 12:51 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Need a home.
>
> Hi All,
>
> I should have my plane done around June and I was wondering if anyone
on this list knows of a place I could call home
HI Monte,
Don't have a place for your plane but would like to see it, My brother and
I live in cartersville Ga. He has MkIII and I have slingshot both powered by
912S engines.We need to get together and fly when your done. Stay in touch,
Bill Woods
cajwoods(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood vs. Composite (from: Bad Day at Black |
Rock)
Gents,
I just reread my last message and I'd like to clarify a point I made
concerning my aircraft and wood prop balancing.
>This certainly can be a problem if the aircraft is stored outside. My
aircraft has always been hangared, and for the most >part, it has only had
to have one wing folded to fit in the hangar; thus allowing the prop to
stow in the horizontal position. >Again balance has never been a problem.
What I really meant to say was: The aircraft has for most of it's life
been stored in a hangar with it's wings spread and the prop horizontal.
For the last couple of years, since I moved to a new hangar, I've had to
fold one wing to get things to fit. Obviously, the prop was then vertical.
:-) Regardless, prop balance hasn't been a problem.
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Book status and Groton Seminar Info |
Got shipped to Charlottesville VA early this week and didn't
get as much done on R9 book as I'd planned but I've got the
work in the laptop and we're making good use of the 6 mile
high office. Leaving again in the morning for Groton CT for
our second weekend seminar of the year. If anyone not already
registered chooses to attend you're welcome to just show up.
We're doing something a little different this trip. We've got
a suitcase full of tools that will be used for some real time
demonstrations. Attendee names will be drawn for taking some
of them home.
>The directions to Survival Systems at the Groton, CT airport are as follows:
>From the North ( Providence, RI): RT 95 South > take Exit 88 > Left onto RT
>117 > follow to end > at "T" turn right onto US 1 South > (follow signs to
>Groton Airport) > turn Left onto Tower Ave.
>
> Survival Systems is the large Blue Bldg across from the terminal.
>
>
>>From the South (New York): RT 95 North > take Exit 88 > at the bottom of
the
>exit ramp take a Right > follow to end > at "T" turn right onto US 1 South >
>(follow signs to Groton Airport) > turn Left onto Tower Ave.
>
> Survival Systems is the large Blue Bldg across from the terminal.
>
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brain Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood vs. Composite (from: Bad Day at Black Rock) |
I had an Ultrastar during the mid to late eighties. Broke the landing gear
and smashed several props. One of the props flew apart during a ground
run-up. After examining the prop
it appeared that the inlaid leading edge had separated causing the prop to
self destruct. Another incident involved picking up a short piece of barbed
wire and flinging it through the wing and aileron. A length of barbed wire
fell off a friends cultivator the previous day and I hooked it with the
Ultrastar's low prop as I was entering his yard.
I built bungy cord suspension on my Ultrastar and had no further gear
problems. I did a considerable amount of winter flying on skis and a better
suspension with some give was essential. Snowdrifts on fields and lakes can
bend the best of landing gear.
I used the same outside diameter tubes but one size heavier. They were
attached to the same points with a hinge assembly built in. I would assume
a 3 to 4 pound weight increase. My Mark 111 needs some landing gear
straightening after flying with wheel skis this past winter.
Kim Steiner
P.S. I never had anything fall off the Ultrastar and damage a prop.
>
> I stuck with the wood prop for EXACTLY the same reasons you did. The prop
> that came apart was a good prop made by "Culver" with the reenforced
> leading edge. If I rebuild, you can bet "your bottom dollar" that the new
> prop will be a composite prop of some kind.
>
> >I'm a little dismayed to hear the reports of muffler mount items being
> >known to come off on the U/S.
>
>
> >I'm also thinking that the retrofit of the U/S with the F/S gear legs
would
> >be a good idea, especially if greater prop clearance is also achieved--
>
> In retrospect, I too think that it would be a good idea. I have toyed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rats bee-hind ... |
If you mean 2300 to 2500 fpm, I'm impressed ! ! ! Does the Mk III do the
same ?? What speed does the Mk III run at ?? Hoo-ee ! ! ! Maybe I'll
finish this durned covering after all. That sounds like fun.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <cajwoods(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rats bee-hind ...
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 5:49 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rats bee-hind ...
>
>
>
> >
> > Kinda makes you wonder. I would have said that FireStars and Mk IIIs
> were
> > about evenly covered. Some days there's more on one, some days more on
> the
> > other. If that yo-yo had watched for a few days, he mighta learned
> > something. The ones I haven't noticed much talk about are the FireFly
> and
> > SlingShot
>
> Hi Lar,
> new to the kolb list but thought I would reply. Just finished building and
> flowned for about 10 hrs Slingshot with 912S, man I cant describe to you
> what this thing is like, but I'll try anyway. Climbout on cool mornings,
> About 23-25 fpm, 4800 rpm cruise, about 90-95 indicated. Flying into the
> wind at 5500 rpm for about 10 miles, 98 kts gs. Turn around and come
> straight back. 134 kts gs according to trusty magellen GPS. What an
> adrenaline RUSH! My brother has 912S powered MkIII which is also equally
> impressive. Finished both within a week apart. I test flew both aircraft.
> Both been flying for about 2-3 weeks. Hope to see you and all the gang at
> sun-n-fun,
> Bill Woods
>
>
> cajwoods(at)mindspring.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad Day at Black Rock |
>
>Guess ole Possum oughta join that club too, with his Firestar Submarine.
>Whaddaya say Possum ?? Where ya been, anyway ?? Lar
--------------------------
Trying to fly through barbwire fences. Doing a little detailing on my
Horiztal Stablizers.
<http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/>
---------------------------
->New to the kolb list but thought I would reply. Just finished building and
>flowned for about 10 hrs Slingshot with 912S, I test flew both aircraft.
>Both been flying for about 2-3 weeks. Hope to see you and all the gang at
>sun-n-fun,
Bill Woods
---------------------------
You guys are going to have to bring them down to the club meeting and show
them off before you tear them up. How does John Russell's climb--I heard
about 1600 fpm a 70 mph?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | monte84(at)mindspring.com |
Hello,
Got a quick question. Kolb sent me four black bolts with my 912 engine package
that seem to be the only ones that could be used for mounting the engine.
What method is everyone using to safety these since there is no hole for safety
wire. Thanks for you help.
Monte.
P.S. One day maybe I will be able to answer a question instead of just asking them.
Thanks again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rpike(at)preferred.com> |
Over the last couple years, several strings on the list have involved the
fairly short service life of wheel bearings, especially the ones that go
into standard MKIII wheels. I think I have found some good ones.
Last year I bought four bearings from Northern Equipment, the part # is
499502H, and the price last year was $4.60 each. They are slightly
different from original, instead of a lip on one side, there is a machined
groove near one edge, and a snap ring fits into it, so it's dimensions are
slightly different in terms of shimming axle length, I had to make up new
axle spacers to get the wheel aligned correctly with the brake backing
plate. Not much change, but enough to require a modification. The snap ring
takes the place of the lip on the original bearings.
I am doing the annual now, took the wheels off, the bearings are still like
new.
The annual revealed a minor problem with the wheels. The hub loosens up a
bit around the bearings, and the bearings begin to slop in the hub.
Obtained a sheet of thin shim stock from the local machine shop, and used
it to wrap around the bearings before tapping them into the hub. No slop,
everything now is as tight as new.
Something I have tried using to get a constant tension between the axle nut
and the hub bearings is to use a lock washer between the axle nut and the
large washer that fits against the hub bearing. I tighten the axle nut down
until the lock washer is about 2/3's compressed, and you can just start to
feel the bearings tighten up enough to notice when you spin the wheel. Then
I put the cotter key in and leave it like that, now I have a good amount of
tension without having too much, and if things change because something
seats out or moves a hair, the lock washer will expand enough to still keep
the slop out. Hope this is useful to someone, I think the MKIII is not the
only Kolb to use these wheels, so perhaps this might also benefit any
deprived (other Kolb) owners.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
Is there a preferred lubrication for the standard wheel bearings? I was
thinking of using wheel bearing grease but maybe that is too thick and will
maybe cause dirt and dust to stick to it. I could take them off the
wheel --soak in a good parts cleaner and re-lube them--what does everybody
else do? Dale Seitzer--original Firestar with funky wheelbarrow tires and
no brakes (don't need them).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel bearings |
Dale,
You can get sealed high speed bearings from Gopher Bearing Co. at 94 and
280 in Mpls. Never need to lube ...... $10 each, you need 4 of them.
Ralph
>
> Is there a preferred lubrication for the standard wheel bearings?
> I was
> thinking of using wheel bearing grease but maybe that is too thick
> and will
> maybe cause dirt and dust to stick to it. I could take them off
> the
> wheel --soak in a good parts cleaner and re-lube them--what does
> everybody
> else do? Dale Seitzer--original Firestar with funky wheelbarrow
> tires and
> no brakes (don't need them).
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Bruce and others,
I have a couple of questions for you.
1) How did you install the primer pump so it fills the float bowl.
2) If the pulse pump develops a problem like a ruptured diaphragm (which
is very likely if it goes bad), won't the facet pump send fuel backwards
into the crankcase through the pulse port, killing the engine? Maybe I
missed the comments on this, but it seems two single pulse pumps in
parallel each with their own check valves would make more sense. The dual
pulse pumps have a common diaphragm that does not provide redundancy.
Please set me straight on this.
Ralph
Original FireStar
> I just got rid of the bulb entirely and installed a plunger primer to
fill the
> float bowls. The plunger primer uses a separate fuel line entirely, so
the
> main fuel line is a straight shot from tank to pulse pump to
carburetor.
> Worked great, but I will install the Facet
> on my next FIRESTAR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Bad Day at Black Rock |
>
>Woody: Let's hear some more about this maneuver. Were you shooting for
>points or consistency? I'd also like to hear more about Possum and his
>"submarine Firestar" experience. I also hope I never get anywhere near
>membership in this exclusive club.
>
>
It was the old maintain thine airspeed lest the ground rise up and smite
thee. Got in a difficult situation between 2 bushlots when one of my
Chrysler 820's got weak. Too busy watching the nearby trees to keep an eye
on the airspeed. Anyhow I stalled in a turn at 75 ft and went straight in
nose first and have a photo to prove it. I guess you could say I landed on a
dime. Walked around with my shoulder stuck in my ear for a few weeks but
just fine after that. Ordered the repair parts for it the same night. Dennis
was not impressed with my flying ability but sold me the parts anyway. I am
impressed with the way the steel frame took the shock and saved my miserable
hide.
Woody
I am off to florida today to pick up a preowned but unbuilt kit 1 for a
Mk111. I will be stopping in Kentucky to get Kit 2. Another fun project on
the go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tony-deb" <tony.deb(at)prodigy.net> |
Hi Group,
Due To Not Being Able To Fly As Often As I'd Like I'm Offering My Kolb Up
For Sale--It's a 1995 Kit Completed In '97 By Lakeland. It Has
Altimeter-rpm-hours-slip indicater-air speed-compass-cht-egt combo-egt -dual
throttles-center console-water temp.-magelan gps with outside mounted
antenna- Cb Radio with push to talk button on the stick an headset- extra
set of landing gear-solid state rectfier with battery an amp. meter.all in
all it's a nice bird with a 582 an 3 blade IVO. always hangared.Not looking
For Big Bucks -It Seems 13000. is a fair price-we can talk off list an will
give phone # if needed. If your in New Jersey theres a real nice hangar
available Also.
Tony
PS -A Bonus Only 48 Hours total
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 03/07/00 |
>>>>>>>For those of you with trailers. What do you do to
protect the electrical
connector from weather and corrosion? I have tried covering
it with a
plastic bag, but the resulting condensation seems to be
causing more
corrosion than just letting it hang. What other protection
is available?>>>>>>>
i have used an electrical dielectric gell.. i have used
it on a boat traailor, use to have to clean contacts once
or twice a year till i discovered the stuff. now it is
every 5 years or so.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | VHF Radio options |
Hi Gang,
I am currently using Comtronics headsets and intercom box with an interface
cable for my Sporty's JD-200 hand held transceiver. External antenna is
mounted under th right seat with an aluminum plate ground plane. Reception is
excellent. I get other airplanes loud and clear for 100 miles at 5000 ft.
Transmit, however, is another story. I have been told by a couple of my
fellow aviators that my transmissions are usually impossible to read. Today,
I stuck a cassette recorder next to my friend's handheld inside the hangar
and went flying. Boy, were they right. When the radio is run off airplane
power there is a feedback squeal that even I can hear as sidetone. When on
the radio's internal battery the squeal is gone, but the transmissions are
weak and full of airplane noise
The range is only about 3 miles and the mic is picking up more prop noise
than voice. I am think of getting the Microair 760, a 4 watt carrier
transceiver, that will fit in a 2 1/4 instrument hole. But I would still need
a good intercom and maybe a headset with a better noise canceling mic.
Curious as to what our best "communicators" are using. (The guys that towers
and other airplanes call 5 by 5 when you transmit.)
Squawking--0000
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jwillia9(at)farmerstel.com |
I have a duel carb 503 with a 66-34 prop but it won't turn up to 6700
about 6200 is it. Im wanting to try a 68-32 is anyone use this size prop
on a firestar 11 would hate to have prop and boom tube to meet some how.
thanks.George.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VHF Radio options |
Bill:
I use Sigtronics SPA400 intercom (has artificial side tone
that works whether your xmitter has side tone or not). It
is presently at the factory being upgraded to a SPA400N,
designed for high noise environments. One of the guys on
this List has that setup and claims it makes worlds of
difference.
I also use a King KX99 handheld. It xmits and receives
5X5. Been talking to towers, controllers, and others for
almost 11 years. Get good comments, e.g., "your radio
sounds like a real airplane." :-)
A lot of RF noise is being emitted by the alternator. A
large capacitor, 20,000 more or less, installed to the plus
and minus 12V wires coming out of the Reg/Rectifier will
soak up most of this noise and a lot of ign noise. Resistor
plugs will also help and you can run them without realizing
any power loss or engine outs along with the resistor plug
wire caps.
BTW: I mentioned to Sigtronics about my past and upcoming
flights when I inquired about the upgrade on the intercom
and a new wiring harness that Mr Squirrel tried to eat.
They have agreed to sponsor me with those services. Did not
hesitate, but agreed to help. That is my kind of people.
Here is the reply I got reference Sigtronics SPA400N from
Richard Harris, Kolb List Member:
*************************************************************
Subject:
INTERCOM NOISE
Date:
From:
Richard_Harris(at)albemarle.com
To:
hawk36(at)mindspring.com
John:
Now that you are down for maint , It would a good
time to send that
sigtronics in for the "N" mod. You will not regret it.
It really makes a
difference.
Richard Harris MK3 912
RH
PS Tell them what kind of plane, and noise you have.
*********************************************************
Am steadily progressing with my engine installation/aircraft
upgrade. The engine will be mounted tomorrow, barring any
unforseen problems.
Got to have a new parachute, which will take 4 to 5 weeks to
deliver once I pay for it, which will be when they get the
info necessary to build it to my specs. Things are coming
together and looking much better.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "\"Cy Galley\" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
\"Ragwing\"" ,
"Bob and Kathy Schrieber" ,
"O-ring Seals" ,
"Kolb-List Digest Server" ,
"Woodplanes \(E-mail\)" <woodplanes@northwest-aero.com>,
"beech-owners" ,
"Chapter 111 Dick Walling"
| Subject: | Fw: Aircraft for Sale |
need some tail dragger time or just a nice tail dragger?
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <VicRicLowe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 7:00 AM
Subject: Aircraft for Sale
> Cy-
>
> If you get a chance, can you put this out to your undisclosed rec net?
Thanks
>
> Richard Lowe
>
>
> The following aircraft located in Davenport Iowa is for sale.
>
> 1967 Citabria, 7ECA, lyc 0235, TT 3400, SMOH 1400, Ky97A Com, KT76A
w/mode
> C, Apollo Flybuddy 800 Loran, Intercom, DG, Attitude. Wheel Pants, Tanis
> heater, Auto gas STC, White and Gold starburst paint, Excellent Paint,
> Interior redone since new, Always Hangared. Richard Lowe 319 355-3424
> vicriclowe(at)aol.com $25,000
>
> Reason for Sale...upgrade to more crosscountry capable aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VHF Radio options |
Had to put in a new intercom system and buy a pair of new headsets w
760----waited 4 weeks for part needed to make present intercom work--in the
radio instructions--not available---760- real efficient-but plan on new head
sets--what you have for a helmet will not work.Also installed new antenna
w/micro 760.The 760 is not cheap!
Lindy
LA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>
> Hate to be ignorant but what the Heck does "BTW" mean?
"By the way"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 03/08/00 |
I got a room at the Brandon Motor Lodge near Tampa ($55). Phone
813-689-1261. I didn't call until a couple of weeks ago.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: VHF Radio options |
In a message dated 3/12/00 8:01:41 AM, lindy(at)snowhill.com writes:
<< Had to put in a new intercom system and buy a pair of new headsets w
760----waited 4 weeks for part needed to make present intercom work--in the
radio instructions--not available---760- real efficient-but plan on new head
sets--what you have for a helmet will not work.Also installed new antenna
w/micro 760.The 760 is not cheap! >>
Thanks Lindy,
Sounds like the installation was a bit of a pain to get it right, but presume
it works really well. What kind of headsets are you now using with the
Microair??
Bill G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VHF Radio options |
Bill,
You didn't say what kind of antenna you had, or if the problem has been
consistently bad from the very first, or if it has gotten worse. I would
suspect from the little bit that you have furnished that the difficulty is
with your antenna. You can hear with nothing more than a coat hanger,
however to transmitt it takes a good "matched antenna" I believe that I
would check the wattage of the radio on output, and the antenna "standing
wave ratio". There has been quite a few threads in the archives on the
matching of antenna's with radios, some just recently that were very good.
I believe that I would start there.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Poor Radio Performance |
Bill:
You are making me jealous now. I haven't flown since
January. If I don't get my flying fix I get real cranky.
:-)
Just thought of this when I read your post. Get out your
ohm meter and check continuity and resistance in the coax
and bnc connections. I had a poorly installed bnc on my
coax once upon a time and got the same symptom you
describe. Good reception and "doggy doodie" xmit.
Sometimes one of those little bitty hair-like copper wires
in the shielding can short out the bnc or the soldier joint
on the tip may be bad, or it may have a poor ground
connection to the shielding. Sometimes it doesn't take much
to screw up your whole communications system.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VHF Radio options |
>Had to put in a new intercom system and buy a pair of new headsets w
>760----waited 4 weeks for part needed to make present intercom work--in the
>radio instructions--not available---760- real efficient-but plan on new head
>sets--what you have for a helmet will not work.Also installed new antenna
>w/micro 760.The 760 is not cheap!
>
>Lindy
>LA
Can you tell me a bit more about this? What combination
of components didn't work and what did you do to fix and/or
work around it? I take it that you were unable to make
the intercom in the Micro 760 work?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Elevator Gap Tapes |
Every pilot should know that the man up stairs gives us some bad weather days
so that we can do unhurried maintenance on our flying machines. I used some
of this time to apply book binding tape to close the elevator gaps on my
FireFly. On the next good day I took her for a 40 minute flight over some of
the local farm lands and didn't notice any differences through my usual
stalls and turns flight test routine. The surprise came during landing. With
full flaperons and my usual ~ 45mph landing speed I made a small decent
correction and found myself ballooning ten feet in the air. I went around
again just to confirm and sure enough it did make a significant difference in
elevator performance.
Many of the "improvements" we try are marginal at best (painted drywall tape
on my struts to reduce drag comes to mind) but this one really worked on the
FireFly and probably will work on the others. The tape looks a little shabby
and I will now replace it with Stits. The rudder gap is next.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FF sn 007, 447, IVOprop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Henry <chhenry(at)plains.nodak.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: prop question |
>
. Im wanting to try a 68-32 is anyone use this size prop
>on a firestar 11 would hate to have prop and boom tube to meet some how.
>thanks.George.
I am using a 68" 2 blade IVO on my Firestar I.
It gives about 1.5 inch clearance from the fuse tube. I believe there is
some info about this in the archives from
Dennis Souder.
Charles Henry
Back on wheels in SE ND
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: VHF Radio options |
In a message dated 3/12/00 7:45:03 PM, nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
<< Can you tell me a bit more about this? What combination
of components didn't work and what did you do to fix and/or
work around it? I take it that you were unable to make
the intercom in the Micro 760 work? >>
Bob,
Lindy hasn't had a chance to respond yet, but I am interested in what you
might know about the Microair 760. I am currently using a Comtronics
headset/inercom box with a Sporty's JD-200 transceiver. On airplane power the
transmitter howls with feedback when keyed. On internal battery there is no
feedback but it is puny and the prop noise is as loud as the voice. I will
replace any or all components to get proper transmit.
As I mentioned in a previous post, the JD-200 shows a little less than a watt
of power and an SWR of 1.5. I plugged in a King KX-99 and it showed over two
watts of power and SWR of 1.5
Even with the KX-99 the noise canceling Comtronics mic admits as much
engine/prop noise as voice. Need a really good noise canceling mic.
Your opinion:
1. What about the Microair?
2. What is the best noise canx mic?
Thanks,
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
<<< No Message Collected >>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | radio stuff for Bill |
>
>I am currently using Comtronics headsets and intercom box with an
interface
>cable for my Sporty's JD-200 hand held transceiver. External antenna is
>mounted under th right seat with an aluminum plate ground plane. Reception
is
>excellent. I get other airplanes loud and clear for 100 miles at 5000 ft.
>
>Transmit, however, is another story. I have been told by a couple of my
>fellow aviators that my transmissions are usually impossible to read.
Today,
>I stuck a cassette recorder next to my friend's handheld inside the hangar
>and went flying. Boy, were they right. When the radio is run off airplane
>power there is a feedback squeal that even I can hear as sidetone. When on
>the radio's internal battery the squeal is gone, but the transmissions are
>weak and full of airplane noise
>
>The range is only about 3 miles and the mic is picking up more prop noise
>than voice. I am think of getting the Microair 760, a 4 watt carrier
>transceiver, that will fit in a 2 1/4 instrument hole. But I would still
need
>a good intercom and maybe a headset with a better noise canceling mic.
>
>Curious as to what our best "communicators" are using. (The guys that
towers
>and other airplanes call 5 by 5 when you transmit.)
>
>Squawking--0000
>
>Bill George
>Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
Bill, a good diagnostic plan would be the following:
1. Check the 50-ohm cable from radio to antenna for continuity. there
should be no contact between center and shield (connector metal). there
should be no resistance between ends of the cable, checking center
conductor to center conductor,,, and connector metal body to metal body.
Do not proceed until this is correct.
2. Make sure the ground plane of the antenna is grounded to the plane.
check it again, this time with an ohmmeter. Correct if needed before
proceeding.
3. Beg, borrow or buy a SWR meter and check the cable and antenna. This
step requires the radio be connected to the SWR meter, and the meter
connected to the antenna cable and antenna. Do this step with the bare
radio, operating on its own internal battery only, no headset or any other
cables connected. Correct any problems before going on.
4. Connect your handheld radio operating on its own internal battery to
the antenna cable after doing steps 1-3 above. Engine of aircraft is off,
no headset or intercomm or anything is installed, just the radio hooked to
the antenna cable (and the cable connected to the antenna). Push the
radio's PTT button, and speak in to the mic in the handheld, transmitting
to your friend monitoring a 1/4 mile away. If OK, proceed to #5. If not,
radio needs service. Double check by trying another radio.
5. Connect ONE headset directly (thru the interface cable and push to talk
switch remote cable) to the radio, transmit to a friend (engine still off,
handheld internal battery only, no intercomm, speaking into the mic on the
headset, push to talk in series with mic, using remote push to talk switch
when speaking). If OK, goto step 6. If problems, either the remote push-to
talk cable is bad or the interface cable is bad or incompatible with
radio/headset. Check by removing push to talk, then you must use radio
push-to-talk switch, and you may have to speak into the radio mic, or into
the headset mic, it could be either way, due to radio differences. If OK,
get new PTT cable. If not, get new interface cable. If still problems or
you are lost, borrow a friends STANDARD AIRCRAFT HEADSET, with the normal
standard plugs, etc. Comtronics uses their own plugs, their own ideas, and
their own schematics, and I have seen this cause problems which were fixed
by switching to standard stuff.
6. Lastly, add the intercomm. Good luck. If you get it going, you should
consider adding a CD player and a cellphone too (just kidding).
7. If the system works with engine off, starting the engine will add
background noise, and electrical interference. If you have a noise
cancelling mic (I don't think the Comtronics is an electret noise
cancelling mic!), the background noise will make very little difference.
The electrical interference is another story and may make you put in a
filter if you are getting 12V power from the plane. Connect to this last,
and if everything is OK until you do this 12 volt power connection, suspect
poor power filtration (add battery or huge capacitance thru fuse) or ground
loop (ground everything like radio 12 v minus and antenna ground plane
together, then run one pc of stranded copper wire between radio system and
plane chassis for ground connection).
When you decide to go to standard aircraft type headset and intercomm,
please consider DRE brand. In my opinion, there is no better value
available. They sell 125 dollar headsets which fit and sound as good as
anything I've tried for less than 450 dollars, and DRE sells the best
two-place portable intercomm made--period. See article in last months
Kitplanes for more detail about DRE. I've owned DRE stuff for three years
and I'm still very happy with it.
Let us know what you find...we're all learning here.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: radio stuff for Bill |
Hi Jim and Gang,
Thanks for the very complete troubleshooting guide! It will make good
archive material.
I have done much of what you suggest. I will print out your suggestions and
make sure all was done.
Update. Today, went flying using a friend's KX-99 with his David Clark
Headset and Telex portable intercom. Transceiver fits in the same place as
mine and was connected to the regular external antenna. Surprisingly the
squelch VOX type intercom worked perfectly, never opening on engine noise.
Radio check with a handheld on the ground and several airplanes got a "loud
and clear." The only thing was that when I was transmitting my sidetone was a
bit distorted, almost what I get with my own setup. Probably EMI sneaking in
somewhere. So, I was surprised to hear that my transmissions "sounded like an
airliner."
Further check on my JD-200 with power/SWR meter showed an intermittent
connection at the antenna connection. If I wiggled it the less-than-1-watt
went up to 4 watts. The problem is inside the unit so it will be sent back
today.
I will look into the DRE headsets
Thanks again for the info.
Bill G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kegebeins" <paak(at)csinet.net> |
| Subject: | Prestone Coolent |
Does anyone know why my Prestone antifreeze would gel like jelly and clog my
radiator and hoses, my outside temp. was around 45 degrees. Two weeks ago
everything was fine, then all of the sudden the EGT lights came on and temp.
The overflow bottle hose had come out, and was full of the Prestone jelly as
were the radiator and hoses. (Why did this Prestone gel up?) I would also
like to know what kinds of anitfreeze you use, and what mixture. I have a
912.
Thanks,
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jwillia9(at)farmerstel.com |
| Subject: | Re: prop question |
Charles Henry wrote:
>
>
> >
> . Im wanting to try a 68-32 is anyone use this size prop
> >on a firestar 11 would hate to have prop and boom tube to meet some how.
> >thanks.George.
>
> I am using a 68" 2 blade IVO on my Firestar I.
> It gives about 1.5 inch clearance from the fuse tube. I believe there is
> some info about this in the archives from
> Dennis Souder.
>
> Charles Henry
> Back on wheels in SE ND
>
Thanks,George.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VHF Radio options |
>
>
>In a message dated 3/12/00 7:45:03 PM, nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
>
><< Can you tell me a bit more about this? What combination
> of components didn't work and what did you do to fix and/or
> work around it? I take it that you were unable to make
> the intercom in the Micro 760 work? >>
>
>Bob,
>Lindy hasn't had a chance to respond yet, but I am interested in what you
>might know about the Microair 760. I am currently using a Comtronics
>headset/inercom box with a Sporty's JD-200 transceiver. On airplane power
the
>transmitter howls with feedback when keyed. On internal battery there is no
>feedback but it is puny and the prop noise is as loud as the voice. I will
>replace any or all components to get proper transmit.
>
>As I mentioned in a previous post, the JD-200 shows a little less than a
watt
>of power and an SWR of 1.5. I plugged in a King KX-99 and it showed over
two
>watts of power and SWR of 1.5
>
>Even with the KX-99 the noise canceling Comtronics mic admits as much
>engine/prop noise as voice. Need a really good noise canceling mic.
Hmmmm . . . sounds like you do need a better headset.
I've been using a pair of the Telex cheapies for several
years and found them satisfactory . . . there are probably
better ones but it takes some testing to ferret out the
best ones. I plan to stock the Microair and sell it complete
with a harness ready to install. I've ordered our first
unit and plan to test it a bit myself before we offer it
up on our website. I'm impressed with the size and features,
I need to see how it works electrically. If it looks like
a product I want to market, we'll put it up on our website.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: VHF Radio options |
In a message dated 3/13/00 6:02:22 PM, nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com writes:
<< I'm impressed with the size and features,
I need to see how it works electrically. If it looks like
a product I want to market, we'll put it up on our website.
>>
I'd be real interested in your evaluation..
Bill
do no archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
>Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator Gap Tapes
>
>
>Every pilot should know that the man up stairs gives us some bad weather
days
>so that we can do unhurried maintenance on our flying machines. I used
some
>of this time to apply book binding tape to close the elevator gaps on my
>FireFly. On the next good day I took her for a 40 minute flight over some
of
>the local farm lands and didn't notice any differences through my usual
>stalls and turns flight test routine. The surprise came during landing.
With
>full flaperons and my usual ~ 45mph landing speed I made a small decent
>correction and found myself ballooning ten feet in the air. I went around
>again just to confirm and sure enough it did make a significant difference
in
>elevator performance.
>
>Many of the "improvements" we try are marginal at best (painted drywall
tape
>on my struts to reduce drag comes to mind) but this one really worked on
the
>FireFly and probably will work on the others. The tape looks a little
shabby
>and I will now replace it with Stits. The rudder gap is next.
>
>Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FF sn 007, 447, IVOprop
Cool. I did this last winter but really could never say for sure it was
worth the time. This months Experimenter (I think it was) had an article
about trim-induced drag (maybe it was in Kitplanes), and the author was
suggesting that efficiency or elevator effectiveness improvements would be
made by sealing any gap between the horizontal stabilizer and fuselage. On
my plane ( a Kolb, generic), this is a big gap, maybe an inch. The author
stated if it was sealed the whole tailplane would act as one, instead of
two individual tailplanes. Sounds believable.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Ping" <hping(at)hyperaction.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb handshake |
I couldn't agree more, Since landing at the Pucker Patch
I don't need a seat belt. If you don't believe it ck.out
my pictures.
Howard
http://www.hyperaction.net/hping
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb handshake |
Howard,
Nice site. The patch is indeed a pucker maker. Looks like an awesome place
to live.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Howard Ping <hping(at)hyperaction.net>
Date: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb handshake
>
>I couldn't agree more, Since landing at the Pucker Patch
>I don't need a seat belt. If you don't believe it ck.out
>my pictures.
>Howard
>http://www.hyperaction.net/hping
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Gap Tapes |
. The surprise came during landing. With
> full flaperons and my usual ~ 45mph landing speed I made a small decent
> correction and found myself ballooning ten feet in the air. I went around
> again just to confirm and sure enough it did make a significant difference in
> elevator performance.
=================================================
Hey Duane!
You beat me to the punch. I was going to write about
doing
the exact same thing on my FireFly. I put gap seals on
both
the elevators and rudder two weeks ago. I had discussed
this
with a pilot at the local airport and he encouraged me to
do
so. Said it makes a big difference on GA planes as well.
He had done it to his plane. I had also read some place
about
the improved authority it produces on the control
surfaces.
Soooo! I decided to try it. My first flight was last
Wednesday when the weather here in southern Lancaster Co.
allowed me to fly for the first time since January 2nd.
First my field was to muddy with the frost leaving and
then
the winds took over. Immediately on take off I noticed
that
climb rate was less that usual. Then upon leveling off I
found I had to hold back on the stick to keep from
descending. Before adding the gap seals I had the FireFly
perfectly trimmed to hands off flying. Some of you may
recall my asking about trimming the bird and how I had
placed 17 lb.'s. of lead shot in the nose to accomplish
this.
Some didn't like this solution. I didn't want to put a
trim tab on the elevator.
There I am flying around the first time in two months
wondering what had changed or was it me!!! It finally
dawned on me it must be the gap seals. Smart huh?!!!
I then considered landing and stripping them off, but
after
further thought decided to see what would happen if I took
the 17 lb.'s. of lead out of the nose. I landed having to
hold up on the stick firmly.
Took out the lead and took off again. Wow!!!!! what a
Difference!!!! My FireFly climbed like never before and
was in perfect trim without the lead in the nose. Now I
need to get use to a whole new aircraft. The response to
control input has improved and I haven't been able to get
enough time flying since to fully appreciate or evaluate.
March winds again. Comments please!!!!
So Duane you had the same idea and got to the list ahead
of me. Funny how great minds, or is that feeble minds,
work in the same way!
Terry K. Das Fliege #95 65 hr.'s
P.S. Who says nobody writes anything about FireFly's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Powerfin Eval. Update |
Hi Gang,
Thought I would add a tidbit to Cavuontop's excellent evaluation of the new
model Powerfin propellers.
I recently balanced my 68 inch 3 blade and installed it with my refaced 2
inch spacer. I had set the pitch with a digital level so that ll three blades
were at 13.6 degrees.
Prop is smooth and takes full advantage of the powerband on the 582. After
flying today I decided to check the torque on the bolts. I'd put about five
hours or so on the installation. The torque was correct on the mounting bolts
and the blade bolts. Almost as an afterthought I decided to check the pitch
also. Results follow: blade #1=13.3, blade #2= 13.1, blade #3= 12.0.
Obviously the blades tend to "fine out" after being loaded for a time, even
with the torque at the recommended 175 inch pounds.
It would seem that either the torque values on the blade bolts are too low or
there needs to be some sort of material placed in the hub cavities that would
provide some friction to deter rotation. Splines would be best but that would
require retooling on Powerfins' part. I will pass the above on to Stuart at
Powerfin.
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Eval. Update |
Just a suggestion. Many years ago we had problems with the solid
aluminum handlebars rotating in their clamps on motorcycles. The trick
was to take multistrand copper wire and tape it to the bars. Just a few
strands when clamped would prevent slippage. Acted like splines in the
application. Might work to keep prop blades from slipping if the hub is
like the Warp Drive style.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prestone Coolant |
Bruce,
Are there any more developments or clues to this gel formation. Did this
happen inflight or during warm-up?
I have also a Rotax 912 with about 75 hrs and use regular Prestone 80/20
mix per instructions and just drained and refilled the upfront mounted
radiator again after the stator exchange but did not see anything
suspiciuos.
Frank Reynen MKIII@565hrs
www.webcom.com/reynen
Subject: Kolb-List: Prestone Coolent
Does anyone know why my Prestone antifreeze would gel like jelly and clog
my
radiator and hoses, my outside temp. was around 45 degrees. Two weeks ago
everything was fine, then all of the sudden the EGT lights came on and
temp.
The overflow bottle hose had come out, and was full of the Prestone jelly
as
were the radiator and hoses. (Why did this Prestone gel up?) I would also
like to know what kinds of anitfreeze you use, and what mixture. I have a
912.
Thanks,
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: St. Elmo Al. Fly-In |
Welcome to EAA Chapter 1209, Saint Elmo Al
Third Annual Spring Fly-In
March 25-26, 2000
(Rain Date April 1-2)
Saint Elmo Alabama Airport (2R5)
7 Miles south of Mobile Al Regional Airport
FREE LUNCH - Hot Dogs, Hamburgers and Brisket (Donations Appreciated)
FAA Safety Seminar Saturday Night 7:00 PM
Presented by Birmingham Flight Standards District Office
Camping on the field Friday & Saturday night or stay at an area Motel
Transportation to motels and special rates have been arranged. Call
334-865-4071 for details.
Free Breakfast - Continental Breakfast Sunday Morning
Ultimate Flight Simulator for your PC demonstration
By Paul Johnson
Spot Landing Contest
Young Eagles Flights
Raffle tickets for 50/50 split the pot and a Framed sheet of Classic American
Aviation Stamps.
Door Prizes Drawings
Must register to be eligible
Bring a lawn chair and come have some fun!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hands off flying |
tkrolf in a response to my post on elevator gap tapes said his FireFly flew
hands off with 17 Lbs of shot in the nose. My Fly has the opposite problem.
If I let go of the stick at any throttle setting she heads for mother earth.
I even attached a spring from the stick to the back of the seat. The spring
is strong enough to hold the elevator up to the horizontal when on the ground
but it was not much help for hands off. My original weight and balance showed
the plane w/ pilot fuel etc to be just within the aft limit of balance. Am I
out of trim or should I just leave her alone in case I have an engine failure
during climbout and need to get that nose down pronto ? Thoughts and
recommendations cheerfully accepted.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com |
| Subject: | =?us-ascii?B?UmU6IGNvb2xhbnQgZ2VsAA==?Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 |
Todd wrote:
Frank, I don't have upload capability to the kolb list. Something is
screwed
up. Can you forward this to the list? I think the cooleant issue is one
of silicates in the antifreeze.. If you remember, we had a discussion a
couple of months ago and should be archived for retrieval. He should drain
his antifreeze, flush with distilled water and reload silicate free
antifreeze immediately.
thanks
Todd Thompson
Sales Engineer
DSL.net, Inc.
Charles.Thompson(at)dsl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Bruner <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Powerfin Eval. Update |
>
>
>In a message dated 3/14/00 4:38:37 PM, aquila33(at)webtv.net writes:
>
><< The trick
>was to take multistrand copper wire and tape it to the bars. Just a few
>strands when clamped would prevent slippage. Acted like splines in the
>application. >>
>
>Sounds like a great idea. Wonder if it would tend to booger up the plastic
>material on the blades.
>
Bill G,
Here's my .02: I wouldn't do it - at least until you checked with the factory.
Don't know how similar your hubs and blade roots are to GSC's but I do know
that simply
over-torqueing the hubs destroyed the prop blades on a used prop I was
going to buy.
Compression on the plastic roots causes them to seperate from the wood blades.
Flew with them for an hour or so too, but when I sent 'em back for
balancing, GSC
declared them "not airworthy".
FWIW,
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 03/14/00 |
>The tape looks a little
>shabby
>and I will now replace it with Stits. The rudder gap is
next.
>
did you put the tape on the top or bottom?
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Kolb caps are a myth ! ! ! I've tried for 2 years to get one. Begged for
>it. Even offered to pay for the bloody thing.
How much?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Kolb caps are a myth ! ! ! I've tried for 2 years to get one. Begged for
> it. Even offered to pay for the bloody thing. Phooey on them ! ! !
> Disgusted Lar.
Disgusted Lar and Gang:
Do like I did, buy one. Try this url:
https://www.kih.net/kolb/kolbgear/hats.htm
They have all kinds. :-)
Be happy,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hands off flying |
Hello Jim,
Thanks for the response. Your suggestion of adjusting my ailerons upwards is
easy to do and sounds logical so I will give it an incremental try next time
I get to the hangar. My FireStar was the only one I have been able to fly
hands off. It was really handy for taking pics and watching scenery. With the
Fly's short wings I was afraid the nose dive was a standard function.
Continuiously chasing the horizon gets tiresome after a while.
I plan to be at Lakeland the Monday and Tuesday after the big weekend. I'll
be checking in at the Kolb display regularly. Hope to meet you and some of
the others in person.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hands off flying |
In a message dated 3/15/00 9:55:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
byoung(at)brigham.net writes:
<< did you put the tape on the top or bottom? >>
The elevator gap tape was applied to the top of the gap. This was the most
convenient way and good enough for the test of this modification. The
permanent installation will be just like the aileron gap seal.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FF sn007,447,IVO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sue" <sue(at)tnkolbaircraft.com> |
We sell all kinds of hats and products. If you get on the shopping cart
on our web site you can buy just about anything from hats to leather
bags, jackets, golf shirts, etc. I promise if I have it I will send it,
it will not take 2 years or plus to get it.
We have bunch of khaki low ride hats and khaki golf hats right now. The
golf hats are $15, and the low ride hat is $15.75. We also have
sunvisors and straw hats too.
Well guys it's nice talking with everyone, I usually don't get on here so
this is a start for me. Keep my fan club going, I LOVE ALL MY KOLBERS.
Sue
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hands off flying |
In a message dated 3/16/00 2:48:11 AM, MitchMnD(at)aol.com writes:
<< The elevator gap tape was applied to the top of the gap. This was the most
convenient way and good enough for the test of this modification. The
permanent installation will be just like the aileron gap seal.
>>
Found a teeny slit (1/2 inch long) in one of my aileron gap seals at the
fold. What's best way to fix?
Bill G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darren L Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
________
>>From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
>>Subject: Kolb-List: Hands off flying
>>tkrolf in a response to my post on elevator gap tapes said his
FireFly flew
hands off with 17 Lbs of shot in the nose. My Fly has the opposite
problem.
If I let go of the stick at any throttle setting she heads for mother
earth.
I even attached a spring from the stick to the back of the seat. The
spring
is strong enough to hold the elevator up to the horizontal when on the
ground
but it was not much help for hands off. My original weight and balance
showed
the plane w/ pilot fuel etc to be just within the aft limit of balance.
Am I
out of trim or should I just leave her alone in case I have an engine
failure
during climbout and need to get that nose down pronto ? Thoughts and
recommendations cheerfully accepted.<<
Duane:
Try adjusting your ailerons upward, about two turns on the ball end
to start , as I had the same nose down problem on my FS 1. Still not
hands off, but made it much better.
Darren Smalec, FS 1 104.8 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Big Lar: reason you can't get Kolb CAPS is because you're lower case.
BN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Crack in aileron gap seal fabric |
One of the respondants to my elevator gap seal thread asked how to repair a
1/2" slit in his aileron gap seal. My first concern would be what caused it.
Take a real close look to see if it may have been broken by contact with
hinge, a slip of the Exacto knife during installation or died of old age (UV
exposure). If the rest of the fabric is in good shape and the rest of the
seal is in tact a local repair is in order.
If it were my plane I would use heat/MEK to remove an ~4" section in the area
of the crack and replace it with a new piece of fabric that overlaps the
section that was removed and proceed with the standard fabric finish process.
An air brush is really handy in a job like this. A "showplane" job would
require removal and replacement of the whole gap seal.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FF sn007,447, IVO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Flap & Aileron Gap Seal Cracks |
Hey Gang:
Part of living and flying with a Kolb, especially the MK III
with big props and engines, is splits and cracks in gap
seal. Drumming and vibrating fabric caused by the prop and
turbulent air will do it in time.
Had a chance to chat with Ray Stitts at Sun and Fun 1993,
and show him the cracked paint and beginnings of split
fabric on the very aft end of the fuselage. Had aprx 100
hours on the fuselage. He explained to me that paint and
dope were just like a piece of coat hanger wire. When bent
enough times in opposite directions, eventually both will
break. When I got home I cut the tail end of the fuselage
off and replaced with sheet metal. No more problems.
Here is how I repair the painted and doped fabric gap
seals. I use two inch wide black vinyl electrical tape.
Just the right size to take care of the gap seal.
Completely covers it up. This fix will last for many
hours. When the tape cracks/splits, replace with another
piece. My old MK III has won a few awards with black
electrical tape on the gap seals inboard from the end of the
flap to the flap horn.
Beats messing with the aerothane repairs.
Other small repairs to my fabric are done with decals of all
sorts. Started that after I buggered up the horizontal stab
fabric in Alaska. Put black tape on the holes til I got
home. The replaced the black tape with all kinds of decals
and stickers.
Again, beats messing with the aerothane repairs, and does
not look bad.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: kolb hats
> And We Love You To Sue
>
> PaulV
> Lifetime Member of the "Sue Fan Club"
> Sue wrote:
> Keep my fan club going, I LOVE ALL MY KOLBERS.
> >
> > Sue
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked gap seal |
In a message dated 3/16/00 1:20:53 PM, ronoy(at)shentel.net writes:
<< Gotta quit those coordinated turns, Geo >>
Heck, the yaw string is all over the place. :-)
Bill G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap & Aileron Gap Seal Cracks |
In a message dated 3/16/00 1:46:38 PM, hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Here is how I repair the painted and doped fabric gap
seals. I use two inch wide black vinyl electrical tape.
Just the right size to take care of the gap seal.
Completely covers it up. This fix will last for many
hours. When the tape cracks/splits, replace with another
piece. My old MK III has won a few awards with black
electrical tape on the gap seals inboard from the end of the
flap to the flap horn.
Beats messing with the aerothane repairs.
Other small repairs to my fabric are done with decals of all
sorts. Started that after I buggered up the horizontal stab
fabric in Alaska. Put black tape on the holes til I got
home. The replaced the black tape with all kinds of decals
and stickers. >>
Thanks John. Good advice as always. Makes you start thinking about all the
neat decals you could accumulate for just these "emergencies."
Bill G
________________________________________________________________________________
Some time back I inquired from the list help on engine not idling and going
quiet. I found my problem. It was dirt in the Idler Jet. It runs just fine
now. Thanks to all for your help.
Merle
Twinstar in Orlando
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | File under "Stupid" |
Gentlemen:
I had an experience the other day which I will pass along to the group
for comment. I was out at the airport and was talking to a guy who owns a
firestar. He bought it from someone else and it is loaded with every
available option you could think of, including 2 axis electric trim on the
stick grip. Anyway, proudly showed me his replacements for the clevis pins
at the wing root. He said he had been having a hard time doing the safety
pins with his fingers so when he was at the local marine supply store be
bought a pair of those quick release pins with the button on the top that you
push and the two tiny ball bearings retract and then you pull it out.
He was quite proud of this change. When I pointed out that airplanes
vibrate quite a bit more than boats and the only thing between him and
spinning into the ground was a couple of teeny tiny ball bearings that he
could hardly inspect as part of the preflight, and further that the pin had
to be hollow and therefore could not be as strong as the clevis it replaced,
he just blew me off.
Someone once told me that there is an inscription over the door of the
soviet academy of sciences which translates as "Better Is The Enemy Of Good."
I think the change my friend made is a perfect example of that. Comments
gentlemen?
P.S. I have 4 hours in the left seat of an Antonov An-2 and can attest that
the Ruskies use that philosophy in their aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: File under "Stupid" |
Unfortunately, he may be lining up well for a Darwin award. Another
bad aspect of the plane you mention is that someday he might impress
the next unknowing buyer with all the bells and whistles. The 2-axis
trim is somewhat laughable, the non-clevis-pins are really just what
you said -- Stupid. I would suggest showing him the shear strength of
clevis pins versus Ace bolts. Maybe real numbers might convince him
that he's living on the edge. Another idea would be to saw a "pin"
like his in half so he can see the air inside, and just give it to him
-- let him think on it. I guess 'Better is the enemy of good' is true
because of the human factor: There are simple mistakes to make, and
then human stubborness that prevents us from recognizing them even if
plainly pointed out by others. One time at a fly-in I was really
hoppin mad cuz some 'know-it-all' told me the braided fuel pump pulse
line I used would deteriorate and bring me down for sure. It took me
awhile to realize I was unreasonably mad at this "presumptuous jerk" --
was there maybe just a proverbial snowball's chance he might be right?
I figured I'd at least check on my pulse line often enf to make sure I
wasn't the one to be the idiot. I think the lesson is to put pride on
hold for a bit even when people are giving us unsolicited advice.
Thanks for the reminder.
-Ben Ransom
> that he
> could hardly inspect as part of the preflight, and further that the
> pin had
> to be hollow and therefore could not be as strong as the clevis it
> replaced,
> he just blew me off.
>
> Someone once told me that there is an inscription over the door
> of the
> soviet academy of sciences which translates as "Better Is The Enemy
> Of Good."
> I think the change my friend made is a perfect example of that.
> Comments
> gentlemen?
>
>
> P.S. I have 4 hours in the left seat of an Antonov An-2 and can
> attest that
> the Ruskies use that philosophy in their aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
| Subject: | File under "Stupid" |
Cavuontop:
Even though your friend blew you off, I encourage you to try again for the
sake of a human life and the reputation of Kolb aircraft. If he still
ignores your advice, ask him if his BRS is current and his life insurance
policy paid up.
Bruce E. Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb Gearheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: File under "Stupid" |
Hi Guys
I gotta say that I think those pins may be avi bank types/brand and are
not
hollow in the middle. They have an outer sleeve that slides to allow the balls
to
fall into some holes in the center pin. They come in several sizes and are used
to
hold the wings on the Monnett designed Moni and Monerai motor gliders. I don't
think that they would be very succeptible to vibration. Herb in Ky
"Bruce E. Harrison" wrote:
>
> Cavuontop:
>
> Even though your friend blew you off, I encourage you to try again for the
> sake of a human life and the reputation of Kolb aircraft. If he still
> ignores your advice, ask him if his BRS is current and his life insurance
> policy paid up.
>
> Bruce E. Harrison
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
> you
> push and the two tiny ball bearings retract and then you pull it out.
>
> He was quite proud of this change. When I pointed out that airplanes
> vibrate quite a bit more than boats and the only thing between him and
> spinning into the ground was a couple of teeny tiny ball bearings that he
> could hardly inspect as part of the preflight, and further that the pin had
> to be hollow and therefore could not be as strong as the clevis it replaced,
>
> he just blew me off.
>
> I think the change my friend made is a perfect example of that. Comments
> gentlemen?>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: File under "Stupid" |
Back in UL archaeological times those push button fasteners were used on
Quicksilvers. I think they were called "Pip pins". Beyond the fact that they
were never meant to carry the shear loads seen in Kolb wing root and strut
applications there was another problem. I have heard of them falling out when
the hole they were in was hogged out by vibration and wear.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard_Harris(at)albemarle.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flap & Aileron Gap Seal Cracks |
John: Do you have gap seals on the rudder and elevator ?
RH MK3 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap & Aileron Gap Seal Cracks |
>
> John: Do you have gap seals on the rudder and elevator ?
>
> RH MK3 912
Richard and Kolbers:
Negative gap seals on rudder and elevator.
Probably improve control and performance if the gaps between
the horiz and vert stabs and tail boom were sealed, in
addition to elevators and rudder.
So far, have had no real requirement to go to all that work
to design and fabricate.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
Hey listers.....
We will both be at Sun 'N Fun this year. Most of the time we''ll be at
trhe
fabric workshop tent, or at the Poly-Fiber booth.
We'll get out to the Kolb area a few times, with hopes of seeing some of
you!
Please look us up in the above places!!
Thanx, & see ya there!!
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DBTappan" <dbtappan(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: File under "Stupid" |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 10:15 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: File under "Stupid"
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> Anyway, proudly showed me his replacements for the clevis pins
> at the wing root. He said he had been having a hard time doing the safety
> pins with his fingers so when he was at the local marine supply store be
> bought a pair of those quick release pins with the button on the top that
you
> push and the two tiny ball bearings retract and then you pull it out.
>
> He was quite proud of this change. When I pointed out that airplanes
> vibrate quite a bit more than boats and the only thing between him and
> spinning into the ground was a couple of teeny tiny ball bearings that he
> could hardly inspect as part of the preflight, and further that the pin
had
> to be hollow and therefore could not be as strong as the clevis it
replaced,
> he just blew me off.
>
> Hi List
I just joined this list because I fell in love with the Laser.One of my
best friends also flies a kolb. Will be watching for inf. on the laser.
About the above post. The good news and the bad news about our sport are
one in the same. No one regulates it. It is perfectly O.K. for a owner to
make stupid changes in his own aircraft. I have seen dumb dips like this
with licenses and flying certified aircraft. I even trained a few.The price
we pay for freedom is a few abusing it!
>
TldrgrDan Rochester N.Y.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Twinstar for sale. |
I have just purchased a FireFly kit from a local builder who because of ill
health cannot finish it. My Twin Star has approximately 150 hours on the
plane and engine. It has always been stored in an enclosed metal trailer.
It has
Rotax 447
duel cht
duel egt
tack
airspeed
alt.
compass
I keep her at Bob White airport in Zellwood, FL.
Merle Hargis Orlando, Fl.
phone 407- 648-9074
e-mail go5for4(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
Okay, guys, here is the deal. We here at the Flying C's Planetation have a
deal for you all. Everyone is invited to attend our little get together this
year. On June 17, you are invited to come and visit each other at our little
planetation. It will have a concession and jons. We have approx. 2000' E/W
with a lot of parking. There may be raindeer games or not, depending on what
you want. We expect people from Fla, Ga, Al and maybe Tenn. No fees. Sign
in waiver. You can come in anytime you want and leave when you want. Stay
the weekend. Our coords are N32 24 58 - W85 17 57. We are located about 15
miles S. of Opelika/Auburn and or 18 miles W. of Phenix City, Al/Columbus,
Ga. Free camping. The public is not invited. This is strickly for the
fliers to enjoy without the public to worry about. One restriction - NO
POWERED PARAPLANES OR SHUTES! Sorry, go crash into a tree somewhere else.
Need further info: Contact: Ted Cowan 1-334-480-0822 or email at
tcowan1917(at)aol.com. Happy to help. Maybe see you there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | The Verner 80 hp Engine |
Dear Fellow Kolbers -
After two years of researching for an engine choice for my
almost-finished Mark-3, I have finally made a decision and would like to
share the positive experience of meeting & dealing with the engine
distributor. So all you Slingshot and Mark-3 builders who have yet to
buy your engines, read on.
I'm purchasing the 80 hp Verner SVS-1400 Motor, which is made in the
Czech Republic. It is a 4-stroke, air-cooled, 2-cylinder,
horizontally-opposed engine. It displaces 1400cc, has dual ignition,
dual Bing-64 carbs (altitude-compensating), 4 valves per cylinder, and
uses a cog belt reduction with ratio choices 1.85 and 2.2. Max rpm is
5000, cruise rpm is 3500. In this rpm range, the torque is in the 90s
(ft-lbs) and burns 2 gph. The engine weighs 160 lbs total and costs
$7500 for everything. TBO is 1000 hrs.
As far as I know, there are 2 Kolbs using this engine in the US. One of
them is a Mark-3 owned by Al Sasser of Orlando FL. I flew Al's
Verner-powered Kolb this week in Florida and it seems like an ideal
aircraft for this engine. With two of us and full tanks, we were off
the ground in 200 feet and climbed out at 800 fpm. Once level, we were
able to maintain level flight, loafing at 3500 engine rpm, yielding 65
mph with Al's 3-blade 72-inch Warp Drive prop (2.2 gear reduction). He
thinks some experimentation with different prop & pitch combinations
will likely offer higher cruise speeds.
The sole US distributor for the Verner Motor is Steve Flynn, of Central
Florida Flyers based in Orlando. I met with Steve, flew the Kolb,
discussed his relatively new role as US distributor for the engine (2
yrs), and his philosophy for the future market for the Verner Motor. I
believe this engine's popularity will skyrocket in the next year or two,
based entirely on its own merit as a simple, rugged, efficient and
reliable 80 hp powerplant for light aircraft. Europe has already
discovered this, with 200 or so flying to date. It is believed that 50
or so are flying in the US.
Steve told me how he researched the Verner Motorworks background and
manufacturing plant thoroughly before committing to be a US
distributor. He traveled to the Czech Republic and met with Slavic
Verner himself, founder and president of the company. Steve's primary
goals were to be convinced that the Verner Company would stand behind
their product in terms of service and customer support, and that the
company's future appeared stable, before Steve would take on the role as
the US distributor.
When Steve made the decision to begin selling engines in the US, instead
of proceeding headlong in a massive advertising blitz, he instead chose
to contact all existing Verner engine owners (who bought their engines
from the previous distributor) and let them know that he was the new guy
for parts, service and customer support, and what could he do for them
today to help with any problems. It was important to Steve Flynn that
existing owners did not feel abandoned, before putting his efforts to
sell new engines to new owners.
Steve was at Oshkosh and Sun'N'Fun last year displaying the Verner
Motor. He'll be at those conventions again this year. He wants people
to see the same guy selling the same engine year after year to convince
them that he's in it for the long haul and can be counted on for parts,
service and future customer support. His theory is that once builders
are comfortable that the engine is here to stay, and they begin buying
Verner engines, the popularity will grow rapidly, fueled primarily by
word of mouth from satisfied owners. I admire his style. This
philosophy must be working - he sold only 2 engines last year, but has
sold 4 since Dec 99. And his order list is piling up. We may see more
prominent advertising in the homebuilding publications within the next
year for the Verner, or we may not. Word is out: Builders are
recognizing that this is an excellent engine that offers equivalent
performance to the Rotax-912 at two-thirds the cost. Yeah it's a bit on
the heavy side at 160 lbs, but it is still within Homer's limits for an
acceptable engine weight for the Mark-3 and Slingshot.
For future plans, Steve is in discussions with The New Kolb and
Quicksilver for plans to sell these aircraft equipped with a Verner
Motor as OEM equipment. We'll see what the future holds.
Steve Flynn and Slavic Verner will be offering a free engine rebuild
seminar at next month's Sun'N'Fun. If you plan to attend SNF, check out
the Verner Motor booth and meet Steve for yourself. He'll have two
aircraft on display with this engine installed, one of them a Kolb. I
believe you'll agree that his integrity and commitment to providing us
with an excellent and supportable product is above most other engine
dealers.
I'll conclude this long-winded post by saying that I'm writing this
under no obligation to Steve Flynn or Verner Motors. These are my
observations only, and I simply felt it was worth sharing with you. If
any of you are interested to know more, see Steve Flynn's website at
http://www.centralfloridaflyers.com/Verner.htm or e-mail me if you'd
like to see some pictures of the Verner Motor installed in a Mark-3.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, s/n 300, approx 80% finished in
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Smith" <jrsmith3(at)nr.infi.net> |
Never mind my email... I got this further down the list so I know now and
thanks for posting the email message, JR
----- Original Message -----
From: Sue <sue(at)tnkolbaircraft.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 10:24 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: kolb hats
>
>
> We sell all kinds of hats and products. If you get on the shopping cart
> on our web site you can buy just about anything from hats to leather
> bags, jackets, golf shirts, etc. I promise if I have it I will send it,
> it will not take 2 years or plus to get it.
>
> We have bunch of khaki low ride hats and khaki golf hats right now. The
> golf hats are $15, and the low ride hat is $15.75. We also have
> sunvisors and straw hats too.
>
> Well guys it's nice talking with everyone, I usually don't get on here so
> this is a start for me. Keep my fan club going, I LOVE ALL MY KOLBERS.
>
> Sue
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Last word on arcing |
For a real thrill, try burning 5/16ths and 3/8th stainless rods at 700
amps on a 12 hr shift. 1942, Pullman Std Car works, Sherman tank
turrets.
ol' bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Verner 80 hp Engine |
> I'm purchasing the 80 hp Verner SVS-1400 Motor, which is made in the
> Czech Republic. It is a 4-stroke, air-cooled, 2-cylinder,
> horizontally-opposed engine. It displaces 1400cc, has dual ignition,
> dual Bing-64 carbs (altitude-compensating), 4 valves per cylinder, and
> uses a cog belt reduction with ratio choices 1.85 and 2.2. Max rpm is
> 5000, cruise rpm is 3500. In this rpm range, the torque is in the 90s
> (ft-lbs) and burns 2 gph. The engine weighs 160 lbs total and costs
> $7500 for everything. TBO is 1000 hrs.
> Dennis Kirby
Dennis and Kolbers;
Sounds like a good engine.
As a prosective buyer there are a few things I would look at
to insure this is the engine I want. PLEASE, do not get me
wrong. I am only trying to critique the engine based on my
requirements, desires, and what I know about it, which is
what Dennis included in his very comprehensive email and the
info available on their web site.
1. Advertised 80 hp. In the specs this is described as
limited to 5 minutes maximum. This is what we in the
military referred to as "military power" which is limited to
5 minutes maximum. Since this engine looks like a
competitor to the Rotax 912, I'll add that "mil pwr" for the
912 is 81 hp at 5800, and 912S is 100 hp at 5800.
2. Maximum continuous hp is 70. This is what you can run
the eng all day long without hurting it. Running an
inflight adjustable prop is the only way you can utilize the
80 hp and still maintain any kind of acceptable cruise at
max continuous pwr, 70 hp. By comparison, the 912 max cont
pwr is 80 hp at 5500, the 912S is 95 hp. Because I fly with
a Warp Drive ground adjustable prop, I prop my airplane for
5500 rpm. This gives me the best climb and cruise combo.
However, I can only see 95 of those 100 hp available. On
the other hand, the 914 Turbo max cont pwr is 100 hp at
5500. I am able to cruise with 5 hp less than the 914
available hp.
3. Alternator output is 80 watts. This may be a typo. If
not, this is not much DC power. The 912/912S/914 only puts
out 250W and of that only 80% continuous duty is all you can
expect. That is about 200W which will operate Whelen
Strobes, electric fuel pump, instruments and keep the
battery charged. Turn on the nav lights and landing light,
the volt meter drops to about 11.5 to 12V. I can get away
with using the lights for a short time, but when I do I am
pulling down the charge in my battery. In cold country,
this is not a good idea unless you have a "jump start"
available in the morning.
Again, please do not take this email the wrong way. I am
not trying to sell Rotax engines. I do not owe Rotax
anything, not even the time of day. Just trying to point
out some things I need to look at when contemplating
purchase of a new engine.
I am anxious to see the Verner engine perform at Sun and
Fun. Also look forward to looking at the engine close up
and personal. Would like to have an opportunity to fly the
MK III with the Verner. Would really be able to make an
educated first hand report.
Fly safe,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Our e-mail server crashed |
Our e-mail server was out from Wednesday night last until late
Friday afternoon. Items directed to me were NOT spooled. Letters
direct to me during that interval went into the black
hole of cyberspace . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( The only time you don't fail is the last )
( time you try something, and it works. )
( One fails forward toward success. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GOOCHMAC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Twinstar for sale. |
how much are you asking---how far are you from Tampa?
Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Calling All Kolbers |
Gentlemen:
I need a hand from some of you. I now have 26.5 trouble free hours on my
Mark 3. My restriction period is 40 hours. I had such a difficult time
getting the Allentown FSDO to come out to inspect my plane that when the
inspector, who was a truly decent guy, said he was supposed to give me a 40
hour restriction period I decided not to argue.
I had a 25 hour restriction period from the Baltimore FSDO when I built
the Mark 2, and I know from informal discussions that most folks flying Kolbs
get 25 hours. I plan to petition the FSDO to make my restriction period 25.
To do this I would like to present Allentown with copies of other operating
restrictions for Kolbs issued by other FSDOs that show 25 hours (or some
other number lower than 40) to give the cowardly bureaucrats a reason to say
something other than no, and give me a break.
So here is the deal: if you would like to help me out please respond to
me offline at CAVUONTOP(at)aol.com with your name and address. I will send you
a self addressed stamped envelope for you to mail me a copy of your operating
restrictions. I will even include another stamp to cover your copying costs.
By the way, if this works I would be happy to send copy of the collected
package to others who are applying for their airworthiness certificate so
they can make a convincing argument to their inspector that they should only
get 25
Thank you,
Mark Sellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Calling All Kolbers |
Sorry I can't help, but I'll be watching with great interest, since my FSDO
also wants a 40 hr restriction period. I didn't complain because when I
read the rules, I understood them to say that an experimental with a
certified engine was set for 25 hr, where one with a non-certified engine
had to go the 40 - to prove the engine, not the aircraft. Maybe the 25 hr
guys are flying 912's ?? Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2000 4:19 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Calling All Kolbers
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> I need a hand from some of you. I now have 26.5 trouble free hours on
my
> Mark 3. My restriction period is 40 hours. I had such a difficult time
> getting the Allentown FSDO to come out to inspect my plane that when the
> inspector, who was a truly decent guy, said he was supposed to give me a
40
> hour restriction period I decided not to argue.
>
> I had a 25 hour restriction period from the Baltimore FSDO when I
built
> the Mark 2, and I know from informal discussions that most folks flying
Kolbs
> get 25 hours. I plan to petition the FSDO to make my restriction period
25.
> To do this I would like to present Allentown with copies of other
operating
> restrictions for Kolbs issued by other FSDOs that show 25 hours (or some
> other number lower than 40) to give the cowardly bureaucrats a reason to
say
> something other than no, and give me a break.
>
> So here is the deal: if you would like to help me out please respond
to
> me offline at CAVUONTOP(at)aol.com with your name and address. I will send
you
> a self addressed stamped envelope for you to mail me a copy of your
operating
> restrictions. I will even include another stamp to cover your copying
costs.
>
> By the way, if this works I would be happy to send copy of the
collected
> package to others who are applying for their airworthiness certificate so
> they can make a convincing argument to their inspector that they should
only
> get 25
>
> Thank you,
>
> Mark Sellers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Calling All Kolbers |
> Maybe the 25 hr
> guys are flying 912's ?? Big Lar.
Big Lar and Kolbers:
I got a 40 hour restriction with 912. Everybody in my area
got the 40 hours.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Hodes <hodesrus(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | change from digest format to individual messages |
If possible, please change my subscription from the digest format to the
receipt of individual messages.
Thanks and regards,
Bob Hodes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ashley Dale Kearbey" <Ashley(at)cncnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Calling All Kolbers |
What I did was make my restricted area so large that the 40 restriction
wasn't a factor. The inspector agreed. It was about 70 miles in one
direction and 60 in another.
Bob Kearbey MKIII N52BK
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2000 4:19 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Calling All Kolbers
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> I need a hand from some of you. I now have 26.5 trouble free hours on
my
> Mark 3. My restriction period is 40 hours. I had such a difficult time
> getting the Allentown FSDO to come out to inspect my plane that when the
> inspector, who was a truly decent guy, said he was supposed to give me a
40
> hour restriction period I decided not to argue.
>
> I had a 25 hour restriction period from the Baltimore FSDO when I
built
> the Mark 2, and I know from informal discussions that most folks flying
Kolbs
> get 25 hours. I plan to petition the FSDO to make my restriction period
25.
> To do this I would like to present Allentown with copies of other
operating
> restrictions for Kolbs issued by other FSDOs that show 25 hours (or some
> other number lower than 40) to give the cowardly bureaucrats a reason to
say
> something other than no, and give me a break.
>
> So here is the deal: if you would like to help me out please respond
to
> me offline at CAVUONTOP(at)aol.com with your name and address. I will send
you
> a self addressed stamped envelope for you to mail me a copy of your
operating
> restrictions. I will even include another stamp to cover your copying
costs.
>
> By the way, if this works I would be happy to send copy of the
collected
> package to others who are applying for their airworthiness certificate so
> they can make a convincing argument to their inspector that they should
only
> get 25
>
> Thank you,
>
> Mark Sellers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
Could someone forward me a copy of the digest dated March 19th. I was
off-site and inadvertently deleted it. Thanks.
I have been lurking on this site. I am considering building a Mark III, but
I have concerns about life insurance. I believe most policies have an
exemption for flying experimental aircraft. Has this been a concern for
others? If so, is there any work-around? I believe that my disability
policy would be void also. I am a self-employed dentist. I have a private
ticket that I earned in Alaska 25 years ago. Total log time about 55 hours
in Cessna 150. I am interested in flying slow and low, but insurance seems
to be a hurdle.
TIA (thanks in advance)
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Micah Froese" <mfroese(at)hotmail.com> |
Contact the AOPA or the EAA, they have various policies available. Of
course they may be somewhat more expensive, but what can you expect.
Micah Froese
>
>I have been lurking on this site. I am considering building a Mark III,
>but
>I have concerns about life insurance. I believe most policies have an
>exemption for flying experimental aircraft. Has this been a concern for
>others? If so, is there any work-around? I believe that my disability
>policy would be void also. I am a self-employed dentist. I have a private
>ticket that I earned in Alaska 25 years ago. Total log time about 55 hours
>in Cessna 150. I am interested in flying slow and low, but insurance seems
>to be a hurdle.
>
>TIA (thanks in advance)
>
>Clay Stuart
>Danville KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Calling All Kolbers |
It is to the descretion of the FSDO or DAR as to how much time is in your
test period. I had 40 hrs in my Firestar and it went fast. If your area
restriction is so small that you cannot go anywhere, the FSDO might be
willing to expand it. THe 40 hr is an opportuninty for you to test every
aspect of your airplane's performance and limitations. Use IT. It's not like
you are being restricted from flying. Have fun flying off your 40 hrs.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com [mailto:Cavuontop(at)aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2000 4:20 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Calling All Kolbers
Gentlemen:
I need a hand from some of you. I now have 26.5 trouble free hours on
my
Mark 3. My restriction period is 40 hours. I had such a difficult time
getting the Allentown FSDO to come out to inspect my plane that when the
inspector, who was a truly decent guy, said he was supposed to give me a 40
hour restriction period I decided not to argue.
I had a 25 hour restriction period from the Baltimore FSDO when I built
the Mark 2, and I know from informal discussions that most folks flying
Kolbs
get 25 hours. I plan to petition the FSDO to make my restriction period 25.
To do this I would like to present Allentown with copies of other operating
restrictions for Kolbs issued by other FSDOs that show 25 hours (or some
other number lower than 40) to give the cowardly bureaucrats a reason to say
something other than no, and give me a break.
So here is the deal: if you would like to help me out please respond to
me offline at CAVUONTOP(at)aol.com with your name and address. I will send you
a self addressed stamped envelope for you to mail me a copy of your
operating
restrictions. I will even include another stamp to cover your copying costs.
By the way, if this works I would be happy to send copy of the collected
package to others who are applying for their airworthiness certificate so
they can make a convincing argument to their inspector that they should only
get 25
Thank you,
Mark Sellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Calling All Kolbers |
Advisory Circular AC 20-27, Par 13 a. reads "Amateur-built airplanes and
rotorcraft will initially be limited to operation within an assigned flight
test area for at least 25 hours when a type certificated (FAA - approved)
engine/propeller combination is installed, or 40 hours when a
non-certificated (i.e., modified type certificated or automobile)
engine/propeller combination is installed."
If I was the FSDO guy doing the paperwork, and you could show me where you
had the exact same engine/propeller combination as some other type
certificated airplane, I would go for the 25 hours. Otherwise, I would be
sticking my neck out a mile to give you just 25 hours, because if something
went bad, who do you think would get a blue letter in their file? The dodo
FSDO guy that assigned the wrong hours, that's who.
Having said all that, I don't know if you have a Rotax 582, or a 912, but
if a 582, check to see what the Certificated 2 seat Quicksilver is using.
If you have the exact same engine/prop combination, that fits the above
requirements perfectly, and you could certainly talk the guy into 25 hours
based on that. I am not aware of any Certificated 912 pusher type aircraft,
but it might be helpful to know.
Anybody know of any?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
A Happily Retired FAA guy :)
>
>Gentlemen:
>
> I need a hand from some of you. I now have 26.5 trouble free hours on my
>Mark 3. My restriction period is 40 hours. I had such a difficult time
>getting the Allentown FSDO to come out to inspect my plane that when the
>inspector, who was a truly decent guy, said he was supposed to give me a 40
>hour restriction period I decided not to argue.
>
> I had a 25 hour restriction period from the Baltimore FSDO when I built
>the Mark 2, and I know from informal discussions that most folks flying Kolbs
>get 25 hours. I plan to petition the FSDO to make my restriction period 25.
>To do this I would like to present Allentown with copies of other operating
>restrictions for Kolbs issued by other FSDOs that show 25 hours (or some
>other number lower than 40) to give the cowardly bureaucrats a reason to say
>something other than no, and give me a break.
>
> So here is the deal: if you would like to help me out please respond to
>me offline at CAVUONTOP(at)aol.com with your name and address. I will send you
>a self addressed stamped envelope for you to mail me a copy of your operating
>restrictions. I will even include another stamp to cover your copying costs.
>
> By the way, if this works I would be happy to send copy of the collected
>package to others who are applying for their airworthiness certificate so
>they can make a convincing argument to their inspector that they should only
>get 25
>
>Thank you,
>
>Mark Sellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce E. Harrison" <beharrison(at)lexhealth.org> |
Check around and find another company. I can't believe they would
discriminate against experimentals. I was self-employed for 12 years, 2 1/2
of which were as a teacher. I bought a policy for a very reasonable amount
that covers me, no questions asked. The insurance companies I've worked with
on this issue seem to see a difference between flying ultra lights
(moderately dangerous) and sky-diving (extremely dangerous) and skin-diving
(many fatalities, evidently). I haven't checked on whether I am covered for
pulling the BRS while flying over the ocean in my Firestar, parachuting down
into the water, and then immediately transitioning to the role of salvage
diver. Don't plan to try that one, though.
Bruce E. Harrison
"I'm covered"
-----Original Message-----
From: Clay Stuart [mailto:cstuart(at)searnet.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2000 4:05 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Digest
Could someone forward me a copy of the digest dated March 19th. I was
off-site and inadvertently deleted it. Thanks.
I have been lurking on this site. I am considering building a Mark III, but
I have concerns about life insurance. I believe most policies have an
exemption for flying experimental aircraft. Has this been a concern for
others? If so, is there any work-around? I believe that my disability
policy would be void also. I am a self-employed dentist. I have a private
ticket that I earned in Alaska 25 years ago. Total log time about 55 hours
in Cessna 150. I am interested in flying slow and low, but insurance seems
to be a hurdle.
TIA (thanks in advance)
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I was thinking about our Alaskan dentist a bit ago, and got to digging thru
old mail in the throw out bin. You know what us ole bachelors are
like.......... Anyway, came up with a thing sent out by AOPA a while back
offering term Life Insurance, underwritten by Minnesota Life Insurance Co.
Guess I'd better check my own, cause I'm not sure about aviation clauses
either. Hope this helps. Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Dateline NBC Tuesday nite-AMASS |
While this is somewhat off-UL, it does concern people using towered
airports.
(pls pardon use of this heavy type; my wife's computer has it for her
vision)
Dateline NBC Tuesday 3/21 will air an interview with an ex-coworker of
mine when we worked for a major Think Tank. He, Bob Bales, created a
system to prevent runway incursions by both AC and surface vehicles,
under contract with FAA : Airport Movements Area Safety System
--AMASS--in 1986!!! Supposedly FAA let a Fast Track contract in 1990 ,
but delivery has been delayed many times- understatement? Pls note, this
Think Tank does/did not produce any systems, merely produced the concept
and some of the software in '86.
AMASS provides verbal warnings to Tower cab controllers when unsafe
conditions exist between two AC or AC and gnd vehicles when approaching
rnwy. To be deployed at 38 major arpts where new ASDE (Airport Surface
Detection Equipment) is being installed.
If any of us think the FAA is slow in handling UL matters, think abt
the delay of MORE than 14 years on this most needed system!
bn
pee ess We first worked together on schemes for reducing police vehicle
reponse times, using versions of the present ATC beacon sytem--in 1969.
Then came LORAN C, and GPS. So simple now, just like flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Kolbers:
Has anyone on the list had any experience with the five gallon wing
tanks several of the catalogs are showing? It looks like they would be
nice for cross country if they could be removed easly for local flying.
I wonder how much drag they cause? anyone?
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenneth Glen Aubrey" <kgaubrey(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi guys, I have another question for the Kolb forum. I had my airplane
inspected by the local EAA tech advisor and he wants me to change all the
bolts that hold the control cables to the stick, rudder and elevator from
the nylon luck nuts to the castle nuts with cotter pins. He said the FAA
will not approve it. He also want the castle nuts on the brake peddles and
the aileron torque tube, the wing hinge .... Basically any place that the
bolts are not very tight.
Any one else have this problem?
Confused
Glen
PS
Sue I did not know you were on the list. It sure would be nice to have an
engine :)
(Ken Glen)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
>Kolbers:
> Has anyone on the list had any experience with the five gallon wing
>tanks several of the catalogs are showing? It looks like they would be
>nice for cross country if they could be removed easly for local flying.
>I wonder how much drag they cause? anyone?
If they are the ones that can also be used as a sponson I am considering
them for when using a monofloat. There is enough room in the cabin to store
another ten gallons so I wouldnt think you would need to put it out on the
wing unless you needed them as sponsons anyway. probably a bit of drag but
mostly a fair bit of attachment hardware and fuel lines out to the wing. If
you need them for sponsons then they seam like a great idea, otherwise i
would leave the fuel in the fuselage.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/22/00 12:09:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kgaubrey(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< He said the FAA
will not approve it. He also want the castle nuts on the brake peddles and
the aileron torque tube, the wing hinge .... Basically any place that the
bolts are not very tight.
Any one else have this problem? >>
Yes, I have had this argument with Dennis Souder a couple of times. The
rule of thumb in the aircraft business is that any bolt subject to rotation
should have a castle nut and cotter pin. Dennis' view was that by requiring
two steps instead of one (nut and pin vs. just nut) that the builder had more
opportunities to make a mistake, and that in the end it was actually safer to
have a nylock nut in most applications.
My response to that was "where the hell were you when my plane was being
inspected?" Or, put another way, Dennis may well have been right, but that
did me no good when confronted with a pissed off MIDO guy who doesn't like
"ultralights" anyway, who thought he had something better to do that day than
look at my chickenshit little airplane, and just wanted to see things the way
he was used to looking at them.
At one point I actually think I won the argument and Dennis agreed that,
even though he was right, it might be a good idea to change the drawings to
show castle nuts so as to avoid inspectors hassling kolb builders on the
subject. I don't know whether he ever did it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <NeilsenR(at)state.mi.us> |
I got the same advise from the local EAA tech advisor and I made all the recommended
changes. As it turned out the FAA was only interested in the paper work.
He spent 15 min verifying that ALL the data on the forms matched, data plate
matched the forms, N number was the same on both sides of the plane etc. When
I forced him to look in the cockpit he indicated that the seat belts weren't
TSOed, I got the message and quit pushing. Then he signed off!!!!!!
>>> kgaubrey(at)hotmail.com 03/22/00 12:07AM >>>
Hi guys, I have another question for the Kolb forum. I had my airplane
inspected by the local EAA tech advisor and he wants me to change all the
bolts that hold the control cables to the stick, rudder and elevator from
the nylon luck nuts to the castle nuts with cotter pins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard_Harris(at)albemarle.com |
Glen : I built my mk3 just like Homer said to , nuts, bolts and everything
else . FAA inspectors (two at the same time) passed everything . Wrote me
off in about 1&1/2 hours . Have 160hrs on it now, fly's great , with no
problems .
Richard
MK3 #233 912ul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fly-In This Weekend! |
Welcome to EAA Chapter 1209, Saint Elmo Al
Third Annual Spring Fly-In
March 25-26, 2000
(Rain Date April 1-2)
Saint Elmo Alabama Airport (2R5)
7 Miles south of Mobile Al Regional Airport
FREE LUNCH - Hot Dogs, Hamburgers and Brisket (Donations Appreciated)
FAA Safety Seminar Saturday Night 7:00 PM
Presented by Birmingham Flight Standards District Office
Camping on the field Friday & Saturday night or stay at an area Motel
Transportation to motels and special rates have been arranged. Call
334-865-4071 for details.
Free Breakfast - Continental Breakfast Sunday Morning
Ultimate Flight Simulator for your PC demonstration
By Paul Johnson
Spot Landing Contest
Young Eagles Flights
Raffle tickets for 50/50 split the pot and a Framed sheet of Classic American
Aviation Stamps.
Door Prizes Drawings
Must register to be eligible
Bring a lawn chair and come have some fun!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
>
>Kolbers:
> Has anyone on the list had any experience with the five gallon wing
>tanks several of the catalogs are showing? It looks like they would be
>nice for cross country if they could be removed easly for local flying.
>I wonder how much drag they cause? anyone?
>Dallas Shepherd
>Norfork, Arkansas
On a related note, ...
I recently purchased a new tank from Airstar Discount Sales, the 8.5 gallon
root tube tank they advertise. A few companies have this tank, but these
guys were the lowest price. It is 18" square and 8" tapering to 6" tall.
I just finished installing it on top of the cage, with a "bracket" made of
1" tubing, padded with foam, bolting between the gap seal holdown small
tube in front of the engine, and the flap control area bolts and tubes, (on
a MKiii). It fits there quite well, and sets right at the CG. The tank is
quite nice, a very tough poly construction. The only challenge is the gap
seal must be rebuilt around the tank. The tank is taller than the old
gapseal. I was going to build a new seal anyway, so this was good timing.
The new seal will blend to the windsheild better, cover the tank, fair the
front of the engine, and will not be built of rattly and crack-prone lexan
with rivets. It will be a composite pc, due to the many compound curves
needed.
Tank plumbing plan: keep it simple. Two tank outlets, to two valves,
then one line to each stock tank, dumping into the tank thru a new fitting
and grommet. This way it is completely seperate from the stock system. It
is used to simply refill the stock tanks at any time it is needed. 8.5
gallons more, all useable, effectively doubles my present range, since 10
1/2 minus about 1 1/2 unuseable and "reserve" about equals the 8.5.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bonomo <bonomo(at)hawke.com> |
| Subject: | Seat tanks for M3? |
I'm looking for seat tanks that will fit my Mark III. The ones LEAF has
are nice, but too wide. If there are none available, I'll be making
some. Anyone have pointers?
Cheers!
Tom Bonomo
N582XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bonomo <bonomo(at)hawke.com> |
| Subject: | VFR package for Mark III? |
I'm in the process of refitting the instrument panel for VFR on my
recently purchased Mark III. Rocky Mountain Instrument has nice monitor
and encoder units. I'll likely put in the Garmin GTX327 transponder.
Any leads on a decent package?
Cheers!
Tom Bonomo
N582XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
There is a huge variation in what the individual inspectors focus on. The
several inspectors I saw in action didn't pay much attention to the nuts and
bolts, but were sticker crazy ... just like the Brother P-touch or whatever
it was called, the commercial with the man (Rodney Dangerfield?)with labels
all over his face. That is what made the inspector smile, labels and
stickers everywhere on everything. I think he would have been happy with
hardware store bolts ... if they had a label attached. Another was a W&B
fanatic, could do too many w&b scenarios to suit him. I have heard there are
some that do pay attention to the tradition details of airplane mechanics,
etc. Never met one of those.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Richard_Harris(at)albemarle.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Castle Nuts
Glen : I built my mk3 just like Homer said to , nuts, bolts and everything
else . FAA inspectors (two at the same time) passed everything . Wrote
me
off in about 1&1/2 hours . Have 160hrs on it now, fly's great , with no
problems .
Richard
MK3 #233 912ul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com> |
Hey guys, I'm researching for engine selection for my Mark III, doing it real early,
was lookin at the Raven ReDrives for the Geo Metro 3 cylinder 1.0 litre
engines. Was wondering if there was a Mark III out there with this engine setup?
Anybody interested in checking out the site and giving their input here the
addy:
http://www.raven-rotor.com/html/redrive.html
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
Building Mark III
Serial # MT99400017
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat tanks for M3? |
You'll want to do some careful measuring and thinking. I wanted to do the
same thing, but there just isn't enuf room for my legs, and the tanks too.
I used dune buggy seats, which are thin, and I wear a 31" leg in pants,
which I think is fairly average, and there's just no room left over. Then
too, behind the passenger seat is the battery, and relocating that can be a
struggle. I know others have put the battery in the nose, but I'd rather
avoid that if I can. I figure on the space behind the drivers' seat for
soft stowage - jackets etc. Recently found a custom racing seat for VW's,
and fell all over it. Sexy, super comfy, Great Support, etc., but just
couldn't make it fit without major surgery to the side and center frames, or
jacking my head clear up into the wing roots. Uh - Uh ! ! ! Try
mocking it up and see how it all fits. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: bonomo <bonomo(at)hawke.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 3:23 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Seat tanks for M3?
>
> I'm looking for seat tanks that will fit my Mark III. The ones LEAF has
> are nice, but too wide. If there are none available, I'll be making
> some. Anyone have pointers?
>
> Cheers!
>
> Tom Bonomo
> N582XL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a MKIII ride |
| From: | Robert L Doebler <robertdoebler(at)juno.com> |
Paul
I'm 10 minutes from Calabases, Ca. ( I know, I can't spell). I have a F/S
II. If your're interested, call me at 818-348-7075
Bob Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat tanks for M3? |
Hey Big Lar and Kolbers,
Would the racing seat fit a Firestar II? How much is it and do they have
a web site. I'm trying to consider all options for the FS II I'm building
and welcome all recommendations.
Thanks,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
Recently found a custom racing seat for VW's,
> and fell all over it. Sexy, super comfy, Great Support, etc., but just
> couldn't make it fit without major surgery to the side and center frames,
or
> jacking my head clear up into the wing roots. Uh - Uh ! ! ! Try
> mocking it up and see how it all fits. Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Life with my new Firefly |
I brought my new partially built FF home today. The gentleman I purchased it
from did a fine job on what he built. He was 84 years young today. His
health caused him to quit the project. I find it sad when a person has to
give on a project like an airplane that you have dreamed of for a long time.
Nobody said life was fair.
I will be asking you FF builders and flyers questions so I want to thank you
in advance. Having built the Twin Star from scratch is going to be a big
help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat tanks for M3? |
Seems to me the seat was around $150.00 - 200.00. Each. I'll be seeing
those guys tomorrow, ( my Saturday ) and will find out more about them. Had
about 2" of firm foam, lumbar support, seat belt slots - for wide 4 point
racing belts, the works. It was about 2" too wide to fit between the
aileron torque rod and the outside frame rail on my Mk III. Too Bad ! ! !
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cooley <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Seat tanks for M3?
>
> Hey Big Lar and Kolbers,
> Would the racing seat fit a Firestar II? How much is it and do they
have
> a web site. I'm trying to consider all options for the FS II I'm building
> and welcome all recommendations.
>
> Thanks,
> John Cooley
> Building FS II #1162
>
>
> Recently found a custom racing seat for VW's,
> > and fell all over it. Sexy, super comfy, Great Support, etc., but just
> > couldn't make it fit without major surgery to the side and center
frames,
> or
> > jacking my head clear up into the wing roots. Uh - Uh ! ! !
Try
> > mocking it up and see how it all fits. Big Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wbrans" <wbrans(at)provide.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Life with my new Firefly |
Your FF project is interesting. Where do you live? Ever built before? What
do you fly now, if anything?
I live in SE Michigan and would like to build a FF
Warren Branscomb
Detroit, MI
Twin Star
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lightflyer" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
This is a test and only a test. Were it not information would have been
passed.
Sam Cox
http://www.dfwliteflyer.org
Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering
June 8 - 11, 2000
Cedar Mills Resort / Sheppard AFB Annex
Gordonville, Texas
(90 miles north of Dallas)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Raven ReDrives |
Bill & Group,
I called raven after I got your message. It's very interesting. For about
3.5 to 4k you can get four stroke power on your Kolb. They say:
1. Geo/suzuki is very reliable
2. Parts at your local hardware store
3. under or about 3GPH
4. A bit less take-off power than 582 - would like to hear thoughts on this!
5. Better Cruise than 582 @3950RPM
6. Mount to attach to MIII
7. New harnesses/computer
8. Much quieter than 2 stroke
9. HEAVY - about 180lbs dry weight - need to confirm this, but is that high
or what?
I'm waiting for the info pack. They say 8 or 9 guys are putting them on Kolb
MIII's, but no one is flying them to date. Also say they've had the geo &
the redrive in the air for "millions" of trouble-free hours - I'll get the
details on that.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Johnston Jr. <wingmen(at)hotbot.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 6:47 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Raven ReDrives
>
>Hey guys, I'm researching for engine selection for my Mark III, doing it
real early, was lookin at the Raven ReDrives for the Geo Metro 3 cylinder
1.0 litre engines. Was wondering if there was a Mark III out there with
this engine setup? Anybody interested in checking out the site and giving
their input here the addy:
>
>http://www.raven-rotor.com/html/redrive.html
>
>Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
>Building Mark III
>Serial # MT99400017
>
>
>HotBot - Search smarter.
>http://www.hotbot.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Johnston Jr." <wingmen(at)hotbot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Raven ReDrives |
yea 180 lbs sounds pretty heavy to me!! doubt it will be that heavy, I got the
literature in the mail myself, I emailed Raven bout sending me info specifically
bout the Re-drive setup for the Mark III, haven't gotten any response as of
yet, told em I wanted entire package and prices. Also asked for list of other's
using this setup on the Mark III. I think it would be a great setup and
not a bad price either!!
---
Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
Building Mark III
Serial # MT99400017
On Sat, 25 Mar 2000 10:55:39 Chris Sudlow wrote:
>
>Bill & Group,
>
>I called raven after I got your message. It's very interesting. For about
>3.5 to 4k you can get four stroke power on your Kolb. They say:
>
>1. Geo/suzuki is very reliable
>2. Parts at your local hardware store
>3. under or about 3GPH
>4. A bit less take-off power than 582 - would like to hear thoughts on this!
>5. Better Cruise than 582 @3950RPM
>6. Mount to attach to MIII
>7. New harnesses/computer
>8. Much quieter than 2 stroke
>9. HEAVY - about 180lbs dry weight - need to confirm this, but is that high
>or what?
>
>I'm waiting for the info pack. They say 8 or 9 guys are putting them on Kolb
>MIII's, but no one is flying them to date. Also say they've had the geo &
>the redrive in the air for "millions" of trouble-free hours - I'll get the
>details on that.
>
>Chris
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Johnston Jr. <wingmen(at)hotbot.com>
>To: Kolb List
>Date: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 6:47 PM
>Subject: Kolb-List: Raven ReDrives
>
>
>>
>>Hey guys, I'm researching for engine selection for my Mark III, doing it
>real early, was lookin at the Raven ReDrives for the Geo Metro 3 cylinder
>1.0 litre engines. Was wondering if there was a Mark III out there with
>this engine setup? Anybody interested in checking out the site and giving
>their input here the addy:
>>
>>http://www.raven-rotor.com/html/redrive.html
>>
>>Bill J. (aka-WingMan)
>>Building Mark III
>>Serial # MT99400017
>>
>>
>>HotBot - Search smarter.
>>http://www.hotbot.com
>>
>>
>
>
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Raven ReDrives |
In a message dated 3/25/00 3:41:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wingmen(at)hotbot.com writes:
<< yea 180 lbs sounds pretty heavy to me!! doubt it will be that heavy >>
More like 150 LBS>
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
Took my FireFly for a spin this AM to practice some short approaches. I
washed her before putting her in the hangar last nite and she looked
beautiful. After going through my preflight she cranked up on the first pull.
She took off smartly and climbed to pattern altitude right on schedule. On
the first approach for touch and go I applied full flaperons and pointed her
down to maintain my air speed. All went very well and I while I was
congratulating myself I increased throttle and started to climb. I noticed
she was very sluggish and took a lot of stick back pressure to hold the
climb. At about half way to pattern altitude I noticed that the flaperons
were still down (please no recriminations, I punish myself enough). I have
always heard that retracting flaps in that situation was dangerous and I was
holding my own so I left them down until I was back at pattern altitude. You
can bet I won't make that mistake again. Conclusion: the FirFly forgave me
this time but it was because I only weigh 155 Lbs and the plane is still
right at Part 103 UL weight with a 447 providing plenty of thrust.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Still learning |
In a message dated 3/25/00 2:56:17 PM, MitchMnD(at)aol.com writes:
<< I noticed
she was very sluggish and took a lot of stick back pressure to hold the
climb. At about half way to pattern altitude I noticed that the flaperons
were still down (please no recriminations, I punish myself enough). I have
always heard that retracting flaps in that situation was dangerous and I was
holding my own so I left them down until I was back at pattern altitude. >>
Good narrative. The Kolb Mk-3 pitches down with flaps. It also pitches down
with the application of power. It seems to me that one could run out of "up"
elevator control during a go-around at forward CG. Since the airplane (unlike
some) does not "sag" with flap retraction, just push up the power and quickly
suck up the flaps.
FWIW
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 20:22:33 -0600 |
In a message dated 3/25/00 9:32:34 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ronaldpe(at)shenessex.heartland.net writes:
<< Maybe a stupid question, but are there any
4-strokes available for the FireFly? Would appreciate any comments and
information. >>
If you want to be a legal ultralight per FAR 103, the answer is "no"; but be
patient- check out the Amtec Buddy Twin. It should be available toward the
end of this year and should keep your Firefly legal.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hey Larry -Still hangliding? |
Check this Out.
How to loop a trike (not):
<http://www.motolotnie.rsi.pl/mpg/film1s.mpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
The weather here in my part of the Pacific Northwest is finally getting
"springy" (that means I don't have to wear long johns anymore) and the
place that I fly out of has dried up enough to support the planes weight.
So I finally dig out the Firestar to see how it wintered, and to do my prep
so that I can fly when we get another decent day. When I put it up in
November, I had 5 gal of gas that I had not used. I added the proper amount
of oil and "Briggs and Stratton Fresh start" to the fuel, just to see if
it would do what it says. I of course ran the engine out of fuel and
emptied the carb. not being that trusting. When I got ready to start the
engine, I took off the fuel cap and the smell of the fuel was the same as
it would have been if I had just mixed it. No sign of decay or nasty smell
that usually goes with old gas. I filled the carb, applied a bit of
pressure with the squeeze bulb, pulled it twice, turned the switch on and
it fired on the first pull, and ran just as smooth and clean as if I had
mixed it this morning. While I don't intend to take this batch of gas off
the ground, it is gratifiying to know that the stuff will keep the gas from
going bad once it has been mixed. I worry about the condition of the raw
gas in the summer when it gets hot. The trailer I am sure gets pretty hot
with the doors closed.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hey Larry -Still hangliding? |
In a message dated 3/25/00 11:11:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
possums(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Check this Out.
How to loop a trike (not):
<http://www.motolotnie.rsi.pl/mpg/film1s.mpg>
>>
Wow! I see what you mean with the NOT!........I assume the poor guy passed
intothe great beyond, as his wing even folded as he tumbled from the stalled
loop. How did you find this??
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Bruner <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Raven ReDrives |
>
>Bill & Group,
>
>I called raven after I got your message. It's very interesting. For about
>3.5 to 4k you can get four stroke power on your Kolb. They say:
Folks interested in this engine might also want to check out the Suziair
version
at Joplin Light Aircraft's site:
<http://www.compnmore.com/jla/suziair.htm>
It's $5495 complete, and of course they don't list the weight on this page,
but when pressed via email they say it's 140# dry.
David Bruner
Kingsotn, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Paul,
Don't apologize for a long post. The list could use more of this. You
are helping to motivate those that are building, and I enjoyed reading it
too. Thanks for taking the time to share.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
Paul VonLindern wrote:
>
> Ok gang I hope I don't bore you,
>
> Woke up Saturday morning.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
I looked at the ingredints on a can of gas preservative/ stabilizer and
it read "Mineral Spirits". Is this stuff just plain old
paint thinner packaged at incredible markup in tiny bottles?
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
How much does a 912 weigh ready to go?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Pulled a 912 of an airplane one time and weighed the complete package. Its
"wet" weight was 167 lb. If the Raven folk say their engine weighs 180 lb.,
you can know for certainty that it will weigh at least that much. Haven't
yet seen an engine weigh less than its advertised weight - most weigh more.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of wood
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 1:31 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Raven ReDrives
How much does a 912 weigh ready to go?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Still learning |
A good observation. I had noticed my MKIII with 40 degrees of flaps, two
people and go-around power had "enough" up elevator authority, but it felt
very mushy and abnormal. When I redid my flap actuating handle, I changed
the linkage ratios so that now I only have about 30 degrees of max flap
instead of the original 40. Cannot tell any difference when landing, it
still comes in at a horrendous approach angle, and the airspeed still dies
like a dog when you flare, but it does not affect the elevator's control
authority quite as much.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>Good narrative. The Kolb Mk-3 pitches down with flaps. It also pitches down
>with the application of power. It seems to me that one could run out of "up"
>elevator control during a go-around at forward CG. Since the airplane (unlike
>some) does not "sag" with flap retraction, just push up the power and quickly
>suck up the flaps.
>
>FWIW
>
>Bill George
>Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Raven ReDrives |
> How much does a 912 weigh ready to go?
Wood:
121 lb basic eng.
With radiator and oil cooler 125 lb.
I didn't weigh the Titan exh sys I am using, but probably 5
to 10 lbs.
The 912S basic weight is 125 lb.
With radiator and oil cooler 128 lb.
Go to this url for all the Rotax 4 strokes:
http://www.kodiakbs.com/4intro.htm
From that page you can link to other pages to find all the
data on each engine.
Hope this helps.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Baker" <okiejoe(at)brightok.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 03/25/00 |
John,
Just turned 61 myself, I thought you to be a much younger man. This gives
me much hope and I really look forward to your trip. I have my Favorites
set up so I can immediatly go to your trip progress report and just can't
wait till it happens. Take care and stay away from "tall grass".
Joe B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | forward progress |
Hi all,
I'm feeling pretty good for finally getting to some forward progress on
my FS rebuild. Since the blow over, mostly all I had done was tearing
apart some of the broken things, figuring out how to repair and what to
replace, and ordering parts. This wknd, though, I got 90% completion
on my cage repair. This was a result of my finding a great local A&P
and welder extraodinaire, Andy Cobb. After finding him, we had met a
couple times to think out how to fix things. The cage is now back
straight, and it wasn't really all that bad. :) All that is left there
is a doubler Andy will make and weld on to the left landing gear tube
this next week. I also had ordered materials to make a new left wing
(using a few salvaged, undamaged parts from the old one). TNKolb was
very prompt and helpful in getting me the right stuff there -- so
thanks if you're listening! This afternoon I re-made some wing ribs
and am awaiting one more small order from Dillsburg before being able
to continue with that. I've still got a ways to go, but having most of
the materials and momentum is really nice. It is real fun to be making
an airplane again.
I've enjoyed catching the snippets of what the rest of you are up to,
the first taxi news, JH getting Miss Pfer all prettied up, seeing John
Jung reporting in occassionally (Hi John), and you too Ralph, even tho
the fun of frozen flying times must be drawing short.
-Cheers,
Ben Ransom
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
SWAG? Does this stand for "Scientific Wild Ass Guess"?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Raven ReDrives |
I've got the SWAG book on fuel injection, etc. too, ( 50 bucks worth ) but
now that Steve Parkman is dead, his 2nd in command doesn't seem too sure
about what's going on. To work properly, the Geo ECU has to be reprogrammed
to Parkman's parameters, and after talking to the new guy, I have my doubts
about his capabilities........if he's even found the software. "Let the
Buyer Beware." I guarantee that I'm gonna eat that "50", and go to the
SDS system, ( www.sdsefi.com ) even given the huge price tag.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 11:37 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Raven ReDrives
FLEMING)
>
> SWAG? Does this stand for "Scientific Wild Ass Guess"?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: forward progress |
Ben,
Great news!
I figured that you would get to this point sooner or later. Keep us
informed as you progress. Rebuilding is just another form of building. My
Firestar II is the best of 6 planes that I have owned, and it was built
from salvaged parts.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Firestar.html
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I'm feeling pretty good for finally getting to some forward progress on
> my FS rebuild. ....................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Martin:
Thanks for the invite.
If the flight turns out good, and I am ahead of schedule, I
want to return via Watson Lake then down the Cassiar/Stewart
Hwy. If so, that will put me near your area. I will
certainly take you up on the offer.
Send me your phone number please.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Sorry Gang:
Was asleep at the stick on that last one. Didn't look at
the address and thought I was sending it bc.
Appologize!!!
john h
> Martin:
>
> Thanks for the invite.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I just called PRP in Hemet, CA., and asked about customizing their seats.
Had a very pleasant conversation with the 2 principals, but unfortunately
they say that attempts to build a narrower seat in the past have resulted in
a less than ideal product, so they've quit trying it. They did suggest
taking my dune buggy seats, cutting out the center portion of the bottom,
and rivetting resilient webbing across the opening. My feeling is that
strength of the seat would be compromised. ( ?? ) I suggested using
TemperFoam in the bottom, and working out a lumbar support of it too. They
felt that might be the best solution, but hadn't thought of it previously.
Sorry guys, I really thought we had something going there. Bony
Butt Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm sorry Kolbers, but this has been eating at me for months now. In the
Jan. 2000 issue of Experimenter Magazine, is an article titled "Building on
a Budget." On page 41, section 2., Scrounge, is the statement that he saved
$800.00 on his lift struts (for a Pietenpol) by substituting aluminum
extrusions from a friends' chair factory for the specified chromoly. Am I
missing something here ?? I've looked at the struts supplied by Kolb, and
sure, they're aluminum, but they're massive. You'll never see anything like
that in any chair I've ever seen, not even for elephants. I watched for 2
months, and there hasn't been a word about that article, and it's been
driving me nuts, so I just fired off an e-mail to EAA asking about it.
Someone please tell me I'm reading that wrong. If that guy breaks his neck,
or worse, so be it. But what about some dumb yo-yo that takes his advice,
or the passengers he may take for a ride ?? Worried Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Substitutions |
In a message dated 00-03-27 4:31:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< But what about some dumb yo-yo that takes his advice,
or the passengers he may take for a ride ?? >>
Lar:
As builders of aircraft we take on enormous legal liability. Just like
Piper or Boeing or Beech. But no one will sell us the kind of insurance they
have. Think about it before you take your friend the wealthy doctor for a
ride. I know of two Kolb accidents which have resulted in suits between the
passenger and the builder/pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Substitutions |
I hear you, and agree with you, and that's true where everything is done by
the book, and to the highest standards. My concern in this subs. thing is
that someone is going to get killed, and it'll probably be some innocent
person "going for a ride." Lawsuit won't do them a bit of good.
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Substitutions
>
> In a message dated 00-03-27 4:31:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> << But what about some dumb yo-yo that takes his advice,
> or the passengers he may take for a ride ?? >>
>
> Lar:
>
> As builders of aircraft we take on enormous legal liability. Just
like
> Piper or Boeing or Beech. But no one will sell us the kind of insurance
they
> have. Think about it before you take your friend the wealthy doctor for a
> ride. I know of two Kolb accidents which have resulted in suits between
the
> passenger and the builder/pilot.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Taking a friend(?) along for a ride |
Just thot I'd start a flaming situation here.
What is this "Taking a friend for ride" deal? What you ought to say is:
taking a student for a fam ride/lesson. Gotta keep legal.
bn
exclaimer: I have even less knowledge than those who always say they
have none. Why write?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi All
I would be lost sometimes without this list. The blue prints shows
a spring on the hydraulic cylinders for the brakes but mine didn't come
with any. Does anyone else have these springs on theirs? One more
question. Is the simple loop method for the reservoir working all right
for anyone. Thanks for your help.
Monte
N65ME
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: matco brakes |
Is the simple loop method for the reservoir working all
right
> for anyone.
Monte
Monte and Gang:
Works for me.
I can't remember if the master cyls have springs or not.
CRS is tough. I replaced the master cyls 6 months ago.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
One thing I'm considering in my rebuild is shortening my wings, if even
by just 3" each. I am not interested in more speed and I definetly
don't want to increase my stall and landing speed -- maybe 1-2mph is
acceptable, but I'd have to think on it. It is simply that 3" shorter
would really make a much easier fit into my garage. If anyone can
offer any info on expected change in performance from slightly shorter
wings I'd be interested, especially if you have done this on a
Firestar. Thanks,
-Ben Ransom
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Micah Froese" <mfroese(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
3" is approximately 0.8% of 30 feet. Don't see that making much of a
difference.
>
>One thing I'm considering in my rebuild is shortening my wings, if even
>by just 3" each. I am not interested in more speed and I definetly
>don't want to increase my stall and landing speed -- maybe 1-2mph is
>acceptable, but I'd have to think on it. It is simply that 3" shorter
>would really make a much easier fit into my garage. If anyone can
>offer any info on expected change in performance from slightly shorter
>wings I'd be interested, especially if you have done this on a
>Firestar. Thanks,
>-Ben Ransom
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce McElhoe" <brucem(at)theworks.com> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
Ben,
Lift and Drag are proportional to area (plus a small end effect). You won't
even notice 3 inches off the wing if you give up one lunch a month.
Good luck with your rebuild.
Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88
Reedley, Calif.
>
> One thing I'm considering in my rebuild is shortening my wings, if even
> by just 3" each. I am not interested in more speed and I definetly
> don't want to increase my stall and landing speed -- maybe 1-2mph is
> acceptable, but I'd have to think on it. It is simply that 3" shorter
> would really make a much easier fit into my garage. If anyone can
> offer any info on expected change in performance from slightly shorter
> wings I'd be interested, especially if you have done this on a
> Firestar. Thanks,
> -Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bil Ragsdale <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: forward progress |
Hey Ben, really glad to hear you are making headway. When I was
working on the Mk III rebuild, one of the things that helped make me get
out to the garage every day was the pictures on your web site. Seeing
the Kolb tracks in the soft sand and you "rolling in" on a boat for a
strafing run stirred my imagination and kept me working.
No I still haven't made any kolb tire prints in the sand nor "rolled in"
on any targets. Reason? I am still a little leery of this airship and
2 cycle engines. I have the engine pretty well ironed out as far as
EGT's and CHT's. I was out taxiing the other day and the right main
fell in a badger hole. Needless to say I came to a sudden halt. I went
to town and got some of those 800 x 6's that JH suggested. They won't
disappear in a badger hole like the 600 x 6's did. I also built a new
tail wheel that will float on the sand here at the farm. Just copied
the original Kolb idea except with an inflatable tire.
I called the Kolb factory a couple of weeks ago to see about getting
checked out in a Mk III. They told me that the factory Mk III was down
for mods and repairs and wouldn't be ready till Sun 'n' Fun. Said I
could get some dual then. As it turns out I will have to be in Daytona
on business a few days before Sun 'n' Fun so I will stay there and get
the dual in the factory machine. First real vacation I've had in a long
time. I think it'll be a great one though.
Thanks for the web site photos and really glad to hear you are on the
way to getting the Kolb in the air again. I'll be looking forward to
seeing updates on your web site when you are flying again.
Thanks, Bil Mk III sn 213
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
> I'm feeling pretty good for finally getting to some forward progress on
> my FS rebuild......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
Perhaps you should consider a "bay window" in your garage. :-)
Larry
----------
> From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: shorter wings?
> Date: Monday, March 27, 2000 6:30 PM
>
>
> One thing I'm considering in my rebuild is shortening my wings, if even
> by just 3" each. I am not interested in more speed and I definetly
> don't want to increase my stall and landing speed -- maybe 1-2mph is
> acceptable, but I'd have to think on it. It is simply that 3" shorter
> would really make a much easier fit into my garage. If anyone can
> offer any info on expected change in performance from slightly shorter
> wings I'd be interested, especially if you have done this on a
> Firestar. Thanks,
> -Ben Ransom
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
I might just be jumping into a can of worms here Ben, but Ron Christensen
cut back the wings of his Mk III 1/2, and it gave him fits. He tried
several combinations of wingtip lengths and shapes, and finally found that
the stock, original configuration flew the best. He really put a lot of
thought and effort into it, and documented everything. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 6:30 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: shorter wings?
>
> One thing I'm considering in my rebuild is shortening my wings, if even
> by just 3" each. I am not interested in more speed and I definetly
> don't want to increase my stall and landing speed -- maybe 1-2mph is
> acceptable, but I'd have to think on it. It is simply that 3" shorter
> would really make a much easier fit into my garage. If anyone can
> offer any info on expected change in performance from slightly shorter
> wings I'd be interested, especially if you have done this on a
> Firestar. Thanks,
> -Ben Ransom
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
Ben,
My Firestar II has clipped wings. Each wing tip is 14" shorter. My
original Firestar had standard wings. I don't notice any difference in
flight charactoristics except stall speed. I can still land in 200 feet.
If I built new wings for my Firestar II, I would make them longer than
stock, mainly for the improved safety of a slow stall speed. But if I had
a space problem, I wouldn't worry about a slight clip. Hope this helps.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Firestar.html
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> One thing I'm considering in my rebuild is shortening my wings, if even
> by just 3" each. I am not interested in more speed and I definetly
> don't want to increase my stall and landing speed -- maybe 1-2mph is
> acceptable, but I'd have to think on it. It is simply that 3" shorter
> would really make a much easier fit into my garage. If anyone can
> offer any info on expected change in performance from slightly shorter
> wings I'd be interested, especially if you have done this on a
> Firestar. Thanks,
> -Ben Ransom
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <NeilsenR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Plugging the Fuselage Tube |
Just wanted to do a followup and thanks for everyone's suggestions
I used a product called Great Stuff, its a can of insulating foam for the housing
market to plug my fuselage tube. It was a big mistake. I sprayed the foam
into the back of the tube. The foam expanded out the back of the tube and dried
over night (I thought). The rudder cables and the top elevator cable were freed
up quickly and easily the next day, the foam was cut flush with the end of
the tube, and the foam was fairly easily picked away form the hinge points and
were the elevator bell crank goes into the tube. The problem was the bottom
of the foam pile were the bottom elevator cable passes through took three weeks
to dry. I freed up the cable 1-4 times a day over the three weeks till the end
were it stuck so hard that I wasn't able to move it without damaging the airplane.
I spent most of last weekend carefully shoving probes along the cable
in a effort to free the elevator cable. I was finally able to free it up but trust
me you don't want to do the same.
As for the results. I feel much less of a draft in the cockpit, no difference in
performance (drag related), and it remains to be seen if I will have fewer mouse
visits.
Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII 23 Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plugging the Fuselage Tube |
Okay Richard ,
How about slipping a bpiece of say 1/4 fuel line or something over the
cables to keep the foam off the cables (tunnels for the cables???) From
what you've seen on yours would something like that work or do you have
another suggestion...(how you would have done it differently???) I would
think that over sized tubing would not be able to trap moisture against the
cables as I've heard can be a problem with corrision. I'm only talking
about 8-12 inches of tubing as well...just where you put the foam.
The curing thing never occured to me. Maybe do a layer, let cure
overnight then finish filling the next day???
Can I beat a dead horse or what!?!?!?
Jeremy "foamy" Casey
> Just wanted to do a followup and thanks for everyone's suggestions
>
> I used a product called Great Stuff, its a can of insulating foam for the
housing market to plug my fuselage tube. It was a big mistake. I sprayed
the foam into the back of the tube. The foam expanded out the back of the
tube and dried over night (I thought). The rudder cables and the top
elevator cable were freed up quickly and easily the next day, the foam was
cut flush with the end of the tube, and the foam was fairly easily picked
away form the hinge points and were the elevator bell crank goes into the
tube. The problem was the bottom of the foam pile were the bottom elevator
cable passes through took three weeks to dry. I freed up the cable 1-4 times
a day over the three weeks till the end were it stuck so hard that I wasn't
able to move it without damaging the airplane. I spent most of last weekend
carefully shoving probes along the cable in a effort to free the elevator
cable. I was finally able to free it up but trust me you don't want to do
the same.
>
> As for the results. I feel much less of a draft in the cockpit, no
difference in performance (drag related), and it remains to be seen if I
will have fewer mouse visits.
>
> Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII 23 Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <NeilsenR(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Plugging the Fuselage Tube |
The first thing I would do is put the foam in, in layers. If I had the bottom would
not have been so large an area to grab the cable and it would have dried
quicker. I don't know about fuel line, would it add some drag to the control cables
moving through it? It might be a real pain dealing with a fuel line that
could crushed or dissolved on to the control cables.
Someone suggested a piece of rigid foam cut to a press fit and shoved into place.
This wouldn't be easy afer the tail is on but would be the best overall solution.
>>> jrcasey(at)mindspring.com 03/28/00 01:34PM >>>
Okay Richard ,
How about slipping a bpiece of say 1/4 fuel line or something over the
cables to keep the foam off the cables (tunnels for the cables???) From
what you've seen on yours would something like that work or do you have
another suggestion...(how you would have done it differently???) I would
think that over sized tubing would not be able to trap moisture against the
cables as I've heard can be a problem with corrision. I'm only talking
about 8-12 inches of tubing as well...just where you put the foam.
The curing thing never occured to me. Maybe do a layer, let cure
overnight then finish filling the next day???
Can I beat a dead horse or what!?!?!?
Jeremy "foamy" Casey
________________________________________________________________________________
Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
| From: | "Spence, Steve" <Steve.E.Spence(at)usdoj.gov> |
| Subject: | Plugging the Fuselage Tube |
How about testing foam on samples of stainless cables that have had a lubricant
such as grease
applied to them. If cables easily slip out of foam after it is dried, I would
think it would work inside fuselage tube.
Steve Spence FF 013
Auburn Hills MI
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Casey
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Plugging the Fuselage Tube
Okay Richard ,
How about slipping a bpiece of say 1/4 fuel line or something over the
cables to keep the foam off the cables (tunnels for the cables???) From
what you've seen on yours would something like that work or do you have
another suggestion...(how you would have done it differently???) I would
think that over sized tubing would not be able to trap moisture against the
cables as I've heard can be a problem with corrision. I'm only talking
about 8-12 inches of tubing as well...just where you put the foam.
The curing thing never occured to me. Maybe do a layer, let cure
overnight then finish filling the next day???
Can I beat a dead horse or what!?!?!?
Jeremy "foamy" Casey
> Just wanted to do a followup and thanks for everyone's suggestions
>
> I used a product called Great Stuff, its a can of insulating foam for the
housing market to plug my fuselage tube. It was a big mistake. I sprayed
the foam into the back of the tube. The foam expanded out the back of the
tube and dried over night (I thought). The rudder cables and the top
elevator cable were freed up quickly and easily the next day, the foam was
cut flush with the end of the tube, and the foam was fairly easily picked
away form the hinge points and were the elevator bell crank goes into the
tube. The problem was the bottom of the foam pile were the bottom elevator
cable passes through took three weeks to dry. I freed up the cable 1-4 times
a day over the three weeks till the end were it stuck so hard that I wasn't
able to move it without damaging the airplane. I spent most of last weekend
carefully shoving probes along the cable in a effort to free the elevator
cable. I was finally able to free it up but trust me you don't want to do
the same.
>
> As for the results. I feel much less of a draft in the cockpit, no
difference in performance (drag related), and it remains to be seen if I
will have fewer mouse visits.
>
> Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII 23 Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: forward progress |
>I called the Kolb factory a couple of weeks ago to see about getting
>checked out in a Mk III. They told me that the factory Mk III was down
>for mods and repairs and wouldn't be ready till Sun 'n' Fun.
Wait till ya see the mods. It is refered to as the Mk111-B. (3B)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
>
>I just called PRP in Hemet, CA., and asked about customizing their seats.
>Had a very pleasant conversation with the 2 principals, but unfortunately
>they say that attempts to build a narrower seat in the past have resulted in
>a less than ideal product, so they've quit trying it. They did suggest
>taking my dune buggy seats, cutting out the center portion of the bottom,
>and rivetting resilient webbing across the opening. My feeling is that
>strength of the seat would be compromised. ( ?? ) I suggested using
>TemperFoam in the bottom, and working out a lumbar support of it too. They
>felt that might be the best solution, but hadn't thought of it previously.
>Sorry guys, I really thought we had something going there. Bony
>Butt Lar.
How about building your own seats out of foam and fiberglass? You could
get them perfect that way.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Gentlemen:
A friend by the name of Roger Tuttle, who is not on the list, has a Mark
3 for sale and asked me to put up this message. The plane has a 582 with a
three bladed warp drive and a nice panel. Total time about 80 hours. No
damage history. A nice plane. A recent move forces the sale. He is in
South Carolina and his phone number is 252 974 2089.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
Ben,
So you want to turn a FireStar into a FireFly, huh? Well, it will
increase your sink rate on descents, stall and cruise will increase
slightly too. But then you pay a price with increased rpms in cruise to
keep the plane in the air with less lift. With a little less drag, maybe
not. Where will you put the wing fold holding plate in the wing? As I
recall, it's getting near the end of the spar.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
writes:
>
> One thing I'm considering in my rebuild is shortening my wings, if
> even
> by just 3" each.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Plugging the Fuselage Tube |
Right plan, wrong kind of tubing. What you want is called Nylaflow nylon
tubing, also called Polypenco.
Check page 110 on the 1997-1998 Aircraft Spruce Catalog. The blurb says;
"It is super tough, low friction, high flexibility tubing that can be used
for cable protectors or in short pieces, as small bushings and washers.
Resists abrasion - wears better than aluminum or steel tubing. Has an
extremely smooth inner surface ...yada yada....used as a conduit for the
rudder cables in the Rutan Varieze and Longeze."
I have used this stuff as a protector for cables and it works as advertised.
And it's less than .20 a foot. If your cables are already installed, you
can slit it down one side with a razor blade, slip it over the cable, and
it pops back into shape. A strip of electrical tape will keep the
expandofoam out of the slit. Be careful! It is nasty to try and split
lengthwise down one side, the razor will try and go every which way.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Okay Richard ,
> How about slipping a bpiece of say 1/4 fuel line or something over the
>cables to keep the foam off the cables (tunnels for the cables???) From
>what you've seen on yours would something like that work or do you have
>another suggestion...(how you would have done it differently???) I would
>think that over sized tubing would not be able to trap moisture against the
>cables as I've heard can be a problem with corrision. I'm only talking
>about 8-12 inches of tubing as well...just where you put the foam.
> The curing thing never occured to me. Maybe do a layer, let cure
>overnight then finish filling the next day???
>Can I beat a dead horse or what!?!?!?
>
>Jeremy "foamy" Casey
>
>
>> Just wanted to do a followup and thanks for everyone's suggestions
>>
>> I used a product called Great Stuff, its a can of insulating foam for the
>housing market to plug my fuselage tube. It was a big mistake. I sprayed
>the foam into the back of the tube. The foam expanded out the back of the
>tube and dried over night (I thought). The rudder cables and the top
>elevator cable were freed up quickly and easily the next day, the foam was
>cut flush with the end of the tube, and the foam was fairly easily picked
>away form the hinge points and were the elevator bell crank goes into the
>tube. The problem was the bottom of the foam pile were the bottom elevator
>cable passes through took three weeks to dry. I freed up the cable 1-4 times
>a day over the three weeks till the end were it stuck so hard that I wasn't
>able to move it without damaging the airplane. I spent most of last weekend
>carefully shoving probes along the cable in a effort to free the elevator
>cable. I was finally able to free it up but trust me you don't want to do
>the same.
>>
>> As for the results. I feel much less of a draft in the cockpit, no
>difference in performance (drag related), and it remains to be seen if I
>will have fewer mouse visits.
>>
>> Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII 23 Hrs.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
In a message dated 3/28/00 7:46:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, ul15rhb(at)juno.com
writes:
<< Where will you put the wing fold holding plate in the wing? As I
recall, it's getting near the end of the spar. >>
Good grief!! can't he just modify the wing tip a little [he only wants 3"
shorter per wing]?
Howard Shackleford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chris davis" <scrounge(at)gis.net> |
Good lord, Bens talking about three inches!Go for it , thats 300 apx.
square inches or alittle over two square feet out of 140 thats less than
what you loose puting on a full encloser opposed to having the whole wing
exposed!!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> ul15rhb(at)juno.com
> Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 7:24 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: shorter wings?
>
>
> Ben,
>
> So you want to turn a FireStar into a FireFly, huh? Well, it will
> increase your sink rate on descents, stall and cruise will increase
> slightly too. But then you pay a price with increased rpms in cruise to
> keep the plane in the air with less lift. With a little less drag, maybe
> not. Where will you put the wing fold holding plate in the wing? As I
> recall, it's getting near the end of the spar.
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original FireStar
>
> writes:
> >
> > One thing I'm considering in my rebuild is shortening my wings, if
> > even
> > by just 3" each.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
By golly ! ! ! The Ole Lar stands corrected. Well, 1/2 corrected anyway.
Tonight, when I got home from work, there's a box by the door just waiting
for me. Inside was my very own, VERY OWN, Kolb Hat ! ! ! Wows-ers,
Man ! ! ! Guess they do exist after all. 'Course we knew that all along,
but it sure has been fun. But sadly, I guess I must not be one of the "good
guys from Kolb." The good guys always wear the white hats, right ?? Right
! ! ! Mine's beige. Sob ! ! ! Bad Guy Lar. Do not
Archive.
( For Pete' Sake, please don't take me serious, I'm VERY happy with
my new hat.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
>
>One thing I'm considering in my rebuild is shortening my wings, if even
>by just 3" each.
Yes-- I did it when I rebuilt my FireStar. I don't know if you are
completely rebuilding your wings or just "fixing" them. I extended the wing
spar 6 inches, and shortened the "wing bow". The wing tip turns "up",
instead of "down". It gives lift almost out to the tip, and greatly
increases the wing tip strength. Also increased the lift.
You can almost pick up the whole plane by the wing tip with out breaking
anything (that "rattle" you get after 20 hours is the broken wing tip brace).
Don't have any good pictures of the wing tips-but can take pictures with a
digital camera.
If you want-I'll send you pictures and plans. Uncovered and covered.
Also if you want them, after you see the pictures, I can probably send you
the wing tip bows for this mod.
I think we still have the jig, and it is only one compound curve tube.
Maybe $20.00 @.
I can get Furguson to make them for you if you are interested.
< http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Good morning guys:
Big Lar mentioned temper foam. The magic seat bottoms.
Before I got a piece of temper foam, my buttocks would begin
cramping in less than 30 minutes. The pain was unbearable.
No way I could have ever flown a long XC. Got a piece from
Aircraft Spruce or somewhere, think it is 1.5 inches thick,
just big enough to cover the seat bottom. Have not had a
pain in the butt since then, summer or winter. Winter takes
a little longer to warm up the foam to conform to ones
shape, but works just as well. I do not leave home without
it.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings/AOA Ind |
When I was building my FireFly wings I considered installing an AOA/ stall
warning device that may work. It would rely on my unproven theory that the
fabric on top side of the wing billows slightly when the wing is lifting and
sags when the wing is stalled. It consisted of an electric switch, located at
the part of the wing that stalls first, that sensed fabric position and
sounded a warning or lit a light. I did not want to fiddle with it while I
was building so I installed an inspection plate that will give me access for
possible later use.
My recommendation to any builders who consider this device is to install it
while the wing is being built to accommodate switch position adjustment, wire
routing, indicator location etc. Before anybody does anything I would like to
hear from some folks who have more experience (AE's ?) than I do on the
feasibility of this idea.
Thanks in advance, Duane the plane in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
> You can almost pick up the whole plane by the wing tip with out breaking
> anything (that "rattle" you get after 20 hours is the broken wing tip brace).
possum
Possum and gang:
My wing tips are "stock" outside, but not inside. Learned
from the Ultrastar that the little 5/16 braces were not
doing the job for that wing. Did not take long for them to
break from vibration or whatever, that included the 5/16
leading edge braces. Beefed up the Firestar wings with
larger bracing. When I built the MK III wings I built the
wing tips "beefier" with 1/2 inch tubes for bracing,
followed by .032 alum web on the 1/2 inch tubes. In
addition to the original brace location, in line with main
spar, I put another brace of 1/2" tubes and alum web, at a
45 deg angle from the main spar, forward to the bow tip.
Yes, it adds a little weight, but the bow tip is locked in.
I can lift my "fat" MK III with the bow tip. Used 1/2 inch
tubing for leading edge bracing also.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi Gang:
Found this web site while snooping around looking for info
on Barrow, Alaska. There are some good photos, it is large,
and will take a while to download completely:
http://www.kingeider.net/king5.html
I was particularly interested in several shots of polar
bears. Also one of whaling. The whaling season ends the
first part of July. There is a slight chance I may get to
witness a whale harvest. That would be unique.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Scott <steve_scott(at)mcg.mot.com> |
I think we all understand how a plane flies, but for those who
don't t
here is a quick explanation: The shape of the wing, flat on the
bottom
and curved on top, causes air to move faster across the top than
the
bottom. This, in turn, causes lower air pressure above the wing
than
below, creating lift as the high air pressure pushes harder than
the
low pressure air.
The above is accurate, but incomplete.
The real (final) reason you get lift is because you push air
DOWN. The air you push down is directly creating lift. The reason
the air goes down is that the wing surface efficiently creates a
down wash behind the wing. No magic, just the result of the
curved wing surface. In fact, if you could measure the weight by
volume and the acceleration of the down washed air, it would
equal the lift force!
This comes from "Stick and Rudder", which I consider required
reading for all real flyers. It is true the down wash is created
by a lower pressure on the top of the wing than the bottom, but
this is also true of a flat piece of plywood held at an angle to
the oncoming wind. A wing is just the ideal lift generator
compared to a piece of plywood. The curved wing surface creates a
smooth, efficient down wash with the least amount of drag.
- Steve Scott, Phoenix, AZ
Sorry Kolbers, I couldn't resist the topic even though it is
general aero, not Kolb specific.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings/AOA Ind |
Duane,
I think that your idea wouls work provided the switch was in the correct
location and adjusted properly. But it's warning might be too late to count on.
From my experience flying Kolbs (about 200 hours), the only problem with a stall
is with low power on landing, and then by time it starts, it's too late. What I
mean is that when the wing starts to stall with the power down, you had better
be close enough to the ground, because you are going sink quickly for a ways. If
that sensor could warn you before you could "feel" the stall, then it would be
very helpfull to a lot of people. But if it didn't get us more time, then I
doubt it value. I think you should try it and let us know how it works.
John Jung
MitchMnD(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> When I was building my FireFly wings I considered installing an AOA/ stall
> warning device that may work. It would rely on my unproven theory that the
> fabric on top side of the wing billows slightly when the wing is lifting and
> sags when the wing is stalled. It consisted of an electric switch, located at
> the part of the wing that stalls first, that sensed fabric position and
> sounded a warning or lit a light. I did not want to fiddle with it while I
> was building so I installed an inspection plate that will give me access for
> possible later use.
>
> My recommendation to any builders who consider this device is to install it
> while the wing is being built to accommodate switch position adjustment, wire
> routing, indicator location etc. Before anybody does anything I would like to
> hear from some folks who have more experience (AE's ?) than I do on the
> feasibility of this idea.
>
> Thanks in advance, Duane the plane in Tallahassee
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Smith" <jrsmith3(at)nr.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Barrow, Alaska |
Thanks for sharing JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Barrow, Alaska |
John--quite a bit of stuff on Alaska rain forests available-most think rain
forests only in the tropics or Africa.
Tip--- use the word GO-before you search--saves time and fast-irrespective
of search engine.
You probably saw info on restored Huey on Heli-Vets--since the 258 Message
virus sent to all on that list by my computer Xmas day 1998. All I get is
forwarded messages from old army buddy's--need to fly it to Sun-Fun-if gas
prices drop!
What date a re you leaving?
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Was over at Vince Nicely's yesterday, and looked at his angle of attack
indicator. It is a piece of yarn taped to the outside of the side window
on his Firestar II about 1/3 of the way back from the front. It is about 10
inches long. At the aft end he has calibrated it with some little
indicators made from tape, and stuck on the window. At cruise, the yarn
indicates the lowest one, and just before stall, it indicates the highest
one. He suggested one on each side of the airplane, and calibrate them for
the effects of slipping, as he says it makes a difference.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
I guess from the comments so far I will limit my clipping job to the
neighborhood of 3" each. Like I said, I really don't want to change
the flying characteristics -- just want to be able to walk around the
tail of the plane when folded in my garage. I will probably just make
a tighter turn to the bow tip tube. BTW, I had no problems with wing
tip internal braces breaking in the standard wing as mentioned by
Possum. I am just a little curious Possum about how you know that the
turned up wing-tips improve lift. Any possibility that it is due
instead to carrying the airfoil shape further out (as opposed to the
airfoil going flat as in standard tips)? Anyway, I think I won't mess
with turned up tips. On the somewhat separate notion of installing
vortex generators, yeah, that might really be worth a try. I saw them
on a Flightstar II and talked to the owner. I was very skeptical until
hearing his flight report. If trying these I would make them instead
of buying them. Best thing about the idea is that they are easy to
change or remove in experimenting to find what works.
I sure don't mind the extra possible gotchas brought up such as wing
fold attach, etc. Its good to know that people are thinking of the
other possibilities. As an example, i did in fact screw up my wing fold
attach location on original build. This was from shortening the
fuselage 3.5" and locating the wing fold support tube measured from the
shorter fuselage end. Forgot about that when I mounted the angle
pieces on the wing spar a couple months later, and had to move them in
a little to match the shorter support tube location.
Thanks all,
-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I change my gear oil as part of my yearly conditional inspection, I was
reading an old posting on this list about the benefits and recommendation of
using Mobil Synthetic gear oil. Does anybody have any expertise on whether or
not I can switch to this after now having 140 hours on non synthetic gear oil.
Just thinking about the advice of using either synthetic/or regular oil in
your normal 4 cycle engine. I understand that the molecular structure of the
two are different and that for instance if you switch a leak, etc., might
happen in seals, etc., because of the difference.
So I was just thinking about switching and want some advice.
thanks
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Tim,
It may have been me that wrote that post on using Mobil 1 synthetic gear
oil. I switched after using a mineral gear oil for many years. I noticed
the gear box is actually cooler to the touch after a long flight using
the synthetic oil. I know this is very unscientific, but others who have
switched over have confirmed this too. Anything that will improve the
reliability of my engine and gearbox, I'm interested in. I was getting
ready to go out into the garage tonight and change the gearbox oil (part
of my annual).
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>
> I change my gear oil as part of my yearly conditional inspection, I
> was
> reading an old posting on this list about the benefits and
> recommendation of
> using Mobil Synthetic gear oil. Does anybody have any expertise on
> whether or
> not I can switch to this after now having 140 hours on non synthetic
> gear oil.
>
> Just thinking about the advice of using either synthetic/or regular
> oil in
> your normal 4 cycle engine. I understand that the molecular
> structure of the
> two are different and that for instance if you switch a leak, etc.,
> might
> happen in seals, etc., because of the difference.
>
> So I was just thinking about switching and want some advice.
>
> thanks
>
> tim
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Brakes for Original FS] |
Randy:
There is a virtual library in the Kolb Archives. I just
found 421 msgs ref "brakes."
I have no experience with mechanical brakes on Kolbs.
Take care,
john h
http://www.matronics.com/archives
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
In a message dated 3/29/00 3:30:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, bwr000(at)yahoo.com
writes:
<< On the somewhat separate notion of installing
vortex generators, yeah, that might really be worth a try. I saw them
on a Flightstar II and talked to the owner. I was very skeptical until
hearing his flight report. If trying these I would make them instead
of buying them. Best thing about the idea is that they are easy to
change or remove in experimenting to find what works. >>
I made my own Vortex Generators & installed them on my Firestar I wing,
lowered stall speed by 5 MPH. If you want more info just let me know.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/29/00 8:15:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, ul15rhb(at)juno.com
writes:
<< It may have been me that wrote that post on using Mobil 1 synthetic gear
oil. I switched after using a mineral gear oil for many years. I noticed >>
Hey, Ralph!! That gear oil you are using- what weight is it? I seem to
remember a thread where someone said use 135-140 weight instead of 85-90.
Howard Shackleford
FS I C Box
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wood <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Brakes for Original FS] |
>
>
>Randy Settle wrote:
>>
>> Hi, Still working on getting brakes for the FS, and would like to
>> request pictures of your setups be sent to me if at all possible. Single
>> handle stick mounting, cable routing, and wheel drum brake close ups
>> would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
Have you purchased the brakes yet? Under most circumstances the
mechanical brakes work fine but if you want true lock up the wheel stopping
power you should get the hydrolics. I think Kolb has a fair price on either
set up. I fly with the mechanical brakes and have had no problems yet. My
Twinstar has no brakes and I have only wished for them a couple of times.
But those are tales of soy bean harvests I do not wish to get into at the
present time.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
I checked the Rotax manual and it says API-GL5 or GL6, SAE 140EP or
85w-140EP for the gearbox oil. I'll check the Mobil 1 synthetic. I think
it's 85w-90. After changing it tonight, it drained clear. I cannot say
that about the heavy mineral oils I've used in the past. I've been using
the synthetics for the last 6 years.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>
> In a message dated 3/29/00 8:15:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> ul15rhb(at)juno.com
> writes:
>
> << It may have been me that wrote that post on using Mobil 1
> synthetic gear
> oil. I switched after using a mineral gear oil for many years. I
> noticed >>
> Hey, Ralph!! That gear oil you are using- what weight is it? I
> seem to
> remember a thread where someone said use 135-140 weight instead of
> 85-90.
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS I C Box
> SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Barrow, Alaska |
To John H. and all: On page 43 of the new ( Apr 2000 ) issue of AOPA
Pilot, they list a site called www.flynorth.com as a source for a broad
range of info on flying to, and in, Alaska. Haven't had a chance to look at
it myself yet, but thought you might be interested. Also, on page 57 is a
good article about a 24 day trip from Virginia to "all over Alaska" in a
Super Cub. Made my mouth water. What a trip that must have been.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 6:15 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Barrow, Alaska
>
> Hi Gang:
>
> Found this web site while snooping around looking for info
> on Barrow, Alaska. There are some good photos, it is large,
> and will take a while to download completely:
>
> http://www.kingeider.net/king5.html
>
> I was particularly interested in several shots of polar
> bears. Also one of whaling. The whaling season ends the
> first part of July. There is a slight chance I may get to
> witness a whale harvest. That would be unique.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | AOA sensor shorter wings |
THis would be a stall sensor not an AOA indicator. the power of an AOA
indicator is it tells you exactly how close to stall you are, no matter what
the flight condition or loading of the aircraft. A stall warning is to tell
people that they are stalled. this may have significant value in a 747
where there isnt a huge amount of feel in flying the whale, but in an
ultralight, if you dont know your stalled you deserve to crash. they shake
and drop like stones and your stomach comes up in your throat. the point is
that you want to avoid the stall in the situations where stalling will kill
you and where you are pushing the aircraft close to stall. low altitude
engine problems or tight low altitude turns or whatever. with an AOA
indicator you can very confidently pull the plane to max lift and hold it
right there while manuvering around crashing in on top of the corn or just
having fun cranking and banking. if you keep below stall AOA your not going
to stall. period.
I shortened my wings on FSII 1 foot on per side, but made up for some of
theat wing area loss buy increasing the ailerons inboard and making them
flaperons. I did this because I believe that the very low wing loading of
most ultralights results in too much sensitivity to winds. a very low stall
speed is great and makes for a very safe aircraft until there is wind
around. a 15 mile per hour gust from the side will toss an ultralight
around dangerously. My first plane had 210 square feet of wing and an empty
weight under 200 pounds. it also had tiny little spoiler for roll control!
it was simply dangerous in the wind. I landed it going backwards once,
which is amusing but fairly dangerous ( consider what would have happened to
me at around 20 feet with zero ground speed if the wind decided to stop for
a few seconds). I am more then happy to gain a touch of stall speed if it
buys my better penatration of winds, and a touch of cruise speed/range. I
also feel the wingtip bows are undersuported and my spar is now within a
foot of them. I am also using a built up spar out to the bow from the end
of the 5 inch tube. I will be using large brace tubes as per JH but havent
put those in yet. when I get the beast done I will tell you all if my
changes work!
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
Yes Howard I want to know too. I had hope that we might get Mike (Oly ULs)
to try them out, but he never did. Any information that you might have
would be greatly appreciated.
Larry
----------
> From: HShack(at)aol.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: shorter wings?
> Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 5:19 PM
>
> I made my own Vortex Generators & installed them on my Firestar I wing,
> lowered stall speed by 5 MPH. If you want more info just let me know.
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS I
> SC
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Halstead" <deanbo(at)calweb.com> |
If the down-wash theory is correct, then why does a sailboat move toward the
wind when close hauled? There is a low pressure area in front of the sail
pulling it forward. Sailboats under sail have no power source pushing them
through the air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
In a message dated 3/29/00 11:33:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
lcottrel(at)kfalls.net writes:
<< Yes Howard I want to know too. I had hope that we might get Mike (Oly ULs)
to try them out, but he never did. Any information that you might have
would be greatly appreciated.
Larry >>
Do you mean to tell me that Mike sells those VG's & never tried them???? I'm
flabbergasted!!
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: matco brakes |
I have the hydraulic brakes too, Monty. No external springs on mine either.
Don't know about the loop, mine came with the little reservoir, and I
mounted it in front of the rudder pedals on a homemade bracket.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 3:51 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: matco brakes
>
> Hi All
>
> I would be lost sometimes without this list. The blue prints shows
> a spring on the hydraulic cylinders for the brakes but mine didn't come
> with any. Does anyone else have these springs on theirs? One more
> question. Is the simple loop method for the reservoir working all right
> for anyone. Thanks for your help.
> Monte
> N65ME
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | sythnthetic question |
>
>I change my gear oil as part of my yearly conditional inspection, I was
>reading an old posting on this list about the benefits and recommendation
of
>using Mobil Synthetic gear oil. Does anybody have any expertise on whether
or
>not I can switch to this after now having 140 hours on non synthetic gear
oil.
When switching oils, refer to the oil manufacturer's recommendations. Most
of the synthetics say fully compatible with all mineral based oils, and
they tell you to simply drain old oil and pour in the new synthetic. For
Injection system, I drain more completely, way down to the pump inlet, when
switching. For premix, go ahead and siphon all the old premix out of your
tank (it gets the dirt off the bottom too!), before dumping in the new.
I notice cooler temps too, with synthetic in gearbox, and I am guessing it
is due in large part to the much lower viscosity. My mineral based oil was
the Amoco 85-140 , my sythetic is Amsoil 75-90. Be sure to use an oil
rated "EP". EP= extreme pressure, meaning it resists foaming. Foaming is
entrained air, and this is very important because air will not keep parts
from contacting like a continuous oil film will do for you. The lower
viscosity seems acceptable to me, since the film strength of synthetics is
huge compared to minerals, and does not fall apart due to temp increases
like minerals do. But consult your owner's manual, and some of the oil
companies have help lines you could call when deciding on the vis range.
Lower viscosity should give a little better power transmission with lower
losses (we're talking about 5% gains in efficiency, of the gearbox losses
only, probably not real significant).
Someone asked about seal leakage. Seals are actually swelled by additives
engineered into the oil intentionally by the oil company. The amount of
these additives, determines the seal swelling amount. It is possible to
switch between two oils (synthetic OR mineral oils) and have more or less
leakage, due to this additive engineering. After I changed my aging Buick
four-cylinder engine over to Ams synth, it actually leaked less than when
using Valvoline. And it quieted down a bit. At 189,000 she can use all
the help she can get.
There are more new brands and viscosity ranges available every year in the
synthetics, shop around.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights |
Topher,
I know you are probably the most qualified in the group on aero-dymamics, but
it
sound like you have not yet flown a Kolb. I would like to give my opinion on one
point:
Kolbs do not always give a warning on stall.
If the power is low, they can slow down so quickly, that by time the pilot
recognizes
a stall, it will be too late to stop it. The plane will loose enough altitude that
you
don't want to be close to the ground. This is so different than a power-on stall
that it
is likely to suprise a new Kolb pilot.
Stalling a Kolb with power on is like you described. There is plenty of warning,
an
the plane seens to resist stalling. Even after starting a stall, with power on,
a slight
forward movement of the stick will likely stop the stall. It is because the power
on
charactoristics are so good, that pilots could be surprised at landing. Even keeping
3500
rpm, helps a lot. But pull it back to idle and watch out.
If anyone doubts me, try this (I have): Shut the engine off and do several
stalls. Then tell me if you can feel a warning. I have done engine off stalls at
in
perfectly still air, at over 15,000 ASL, in an original Firestar, and felt no warning.
Sorry about the long post, but I feel this is an important point.
John Jung
200 hours in Kolbs
Christopher John Armstrong wrote:
clip.......
> A stall warning is to tell
> people that they are stalled. this may have significant value in a 747
> where there isnt a huge amount of feel in flying the whale, but in an
> ultralight, if you dont know your stalled you deserve to crash. they shake
> and drop like stones and your stomach comes up in your throat.
clip.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: Brakes for Original FS] |
Guys,
I have the mechanical brakes that Kolb sells on my Firestar II with heal
levers. I can rotate on a dime, by locking a wheel, adding power, and letting
just enough pressure off the stick. My previous original Firestar had the same
type brakes with three levers on the stick. It could do the same thing, but not
as easily.
John Jung
WGeorge737(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/29/00 4:15:37 PM, duesouth(at)iname.com writes:
>
> << if you want true lock up the wheel stopping
> power you should get the hydrolics. >>
>
> Woody and Gang,
>
> Hydraulic brakes (Matco) will not give you lock up capability on a Mk-3. They
> are OK, but to lock one up for a tight swivel tailwheel turn your butt will
> be well off the seat.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
Possum,
Nice pics! I had imagined something different on turned up tips. From
the pics it looks great and very nicely done. Not only that, what did
you use for paint? ...looks fantastic!
-Ben Ransom
--- Possum wrote:
> I am just a little curious Possum about how you know that the
> >turned up wing-tips improve lift. Any possibility that it is due
> >instead to carrying the airfoil shape further out (as opposed to the
> >airfoil going flat as in standard tips)?
>
> Yeah, your probably right. The airfoil goes almost out to the tip,
> guess it makes up for the shorter wings?
> ATTACHMENT part 2 application/octet-stream name=Wing tip.jpg
> ATTACHMENT part 3 application/octet-stream name=Wing back.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights |
John Jung wrote:
>
>
.
>
> If anyone doubts me, try this (I have): Shut the engine off and do several
> stalls. Then tell me if you can feel a warning. I have done engine off stalls
at in
> perfectly still air, at over 15,000 ASL, in an original Firestar, and felt no
warning.
> John Jung
> 200 hours in Kolbs
John,
Are you sure that what you thought you felt or didn't feel at 15,000 ASL
has any relevance to what one feels at a few hundred ASL?
Eugene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DBTappan" <dbtappan(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Hi there kolbers. Is there anyone out there that is interested in the new
laser? Looks like the perfect airplane for my needs. Plan on building a
single place first then fly it for a while and sell it to get going on the
Laser.I am in Upstate ( Rochester) N.Y.
TldrgrDan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights |
In a message dated 3/30/00 8:34:36 AM, tehz(at)redrose.net writes:
<< Are you sure that what you thought you felt or didn't feel at 15,000 ASL
has any relevance to what one feels at a few hundred ASL? >>
A stall is a stall is stall, as long as it occurs at 1 G. If your plane stall
at 35 indicated at 1000 feet it will stall at 35 indicated at 8000 feet. TAS
of course would be higher. If the Kolb was certified it would have to have a
stall warning device installed. My Mk-3 elicits no airframe buffet or other
aerodynamic notification prior to the actual stall. The good news is that the
stalls are benign and stick held full back produces no unusual control
problems. If power is up you will hear the prop cavitate but that's about it.
Recovery is almost instant. Relax a bit of back pressure, with or without
adding power, and you have recovered. Problems occur if the subject stall
occurs three or more feet above the runway. Recovery is then problematic. :-)
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | synthetic gearbox oil |
My kolb friends,
Here is some info on this Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil taken from the
bottle it came in:
Viscosity 75W 90.
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant is a race proven 100% synthetic product
that outperforms ALL conventional extreme pressure type lubricants.
Formulated to exceed the most severe performance requirements of all auto
and truck rear axles.
Minimizes wear and spalling under high speed, high torque and high
horsepower conditions (sounds familiar except for the 40hp that a Rotax
447 generates .... rb).
Maximum resistance to oil breakdown form heat and extended high speed
operation (like propeller gearboxes ... rb)
Extreme cold temperature flow down to -50 deg (nice for idling and winter
flying .... rb)
Compatible with conventional gear lubricants.
Exceeds performance requirements of API GL5 (as the Rotax recommended
gear oil ... rb).
As I said last evening, this oil drained clear after 10 months of service
including winter flying and a flight to Oshkosh and back last summer.
Unlike the heavy viscosity oil that I flew with for many years, it's
proving itself every time I fly.
BTW, I run an "all-synthetic" engine with the Klotz (KL-216) mix.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 13 years flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights |
WGeorge737(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 3/30/00 8:34:36 AM, tehz(at)redrose.net writes:
>
> << Are you sure that what you thought you felt or didn't feel at 15,000 ASL
> has any relevance to what one feels at a few hundred ASL? >>
>
A stall is a stall is stall, as long as it occurs at 1 G. If your plane stall
> at 35 indicated at 1000 feet it will stall at 35 indicated at 8000 feet. TAS
> of course would be higher. If the Kolb was certified it would have to have a
> stall warning device installed. My Mk-3 elicits no airframe buffet or other
> aerodynamic notification prior to the actual stall. The good news is that the
> stalls are benign and stick held full back produces no unusual control
> problems. If power is up you will hear the prop cavitate but that's about it.
>
> Recovery is almost instant. Relax a bit of back pressure, with or without
> adding power, and you have recovered. Problems occur if the subject stall
> occurs three or more feet above the runway. Recovery is then problematic. :-)
I agree, "A stall is a stall is stall," but my point is "feelings" at
1000 ASL and "feelings" at 15000 ASL may another matter entirely.
Eugene Z
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bil Ragsdale <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings? |
Hey Howard we all (I think) want to know about those Vortex generators,
Can you provide details to a bunch of us somehow?
Thanks, Bil Mk III sn 213
Larry & Karen Cottrel wrote:
>
>
> Yes Howard I want to know too. I had hope that we might get Mike (Oly ULs)
> to try them out, but he never did. Any information that you might have
> would be greatly appreciated.
> Larry
>
> ----------
> > From: HShack(at)aol.com
> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: shorter wings?
> > Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 5:19 PM
> >
>
> > I made my own Vortex Generators & installed them on my Firestar I wing,
> > lowered stall speed by 5 MPH. If you want more info just let me know.
> >
> > Howard Shackleford
> > FS I
> > SC
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
>
> By golly ! ! ! The Ole Lar stands corrected. Well, 1/2 corrected
anyway.
> Tonight, when I got home from work, there's a box by the door just waiting
> for me. Inside was my very own, VERY OWN, Kolb Hat ! ! ! Wows-ers,
> Man ! ! ! Guess they do exist after all. 'Course we knew that all
along,
> but it sure has been fun. But sadly, I guess I must not be one of the
"good
> guys from Kolb." The good guys always wear the white hats, right ??
Right
> ! ! ! Mine's beige. Sob ! ! ! Bad Guy Lar.
Well Big Lar I wish I had a Beige Kolb hat. I sweat so much a white hat
last me about two weeks then it is white and brown.
Sam Cox
Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering
June 8 - 11, 2000
Gordonville, Texas
(817)232-3379
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights |
Eugene,
The difference at high altitude is that the air is very very smooth, so that
any little vibration or change could be felt. At landing there usually is some
turbulance to "mask" signs of a stall.
John Jung
Eugene H Zimmerman wrote:
>
> I agree, "A stall is a stall is stall," but my point is "feelings" at
> 1000 ASL and "feelings" at 15000 ASL may another matter entirely.
>
> Eugene Z
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Barrow, Alaska |
Bil and Gang:
Dead Horse and Barrow have warmed up a lot since January and
February. I follow the weather daily at a lot of the places
I have flown to and will fly to this summer. It was not
unusual to see -50F and lower at Barrow, Dead Horse, and
Fairbanks. Fairbanks is usually colder than Barrow in the
Winter, but not in the Summer. In 1964, the first morning I
woke up in Dead Horse, it was 28F and snowing, winds 15 to
20 mph out of the north, right off the Polar Ice Cap.
Barren, yes. There are no trees north of the Brooks Range.
Desolate and unpopulated more aptly describes the North
Slope, the area north of the Brooks. Slopes down hill 150
miles from the Brooks to the Arctic Ocean. Most unforgiving
factor in the Arctic is the weather. It changes in a heart
beat. Can go from CAVU to zero/zero with no warning. Winds
are always a factor. It is an awesome, beautiful, exciting
place. That is why I like it. Nell, my girl friend, Ernie,
my Bassett Hound, and I drove the Dalton Highway to Dead
Horse summer of 1997. It was almost as exciting as flying
it. If you have not driven or flown the "pipe line haul
road" (Dalton Hwy), do it!!! If you like beautiful country,
lots of wild animals, and the feeling one gets when there is
not another human being within a hundred miles of you, then
you need to get on up there to BC, YT, and Alaska, and
enjoy!
My MK III is configured just like it was for the 1994 flight
with the exception of the upgrade from 912 to 912S, and from
my old Garmin 55AVD GPS to a year younger 1994 Garmin 95XL.
I have replaced most of the components, e.g., fuel lines,
throttle cables, upgraded from 14 amp to 20 amp bat,
replaced master and starter solenoids, ELT bat. Any item
that I feel may give me a problem on my flight. Still using
the original Facet fuel pump. If it goes belly up I can
still continue with the mission. Course, it is easy to
replace, if need be.
Overall, the airplane and I are better prepared, based on
the 1994 flight and what we learned from it and the six
years since we made that flight. When I departed Gantt
International Air Port 7 Jun 1994, I had very little
experience with the new 912 engine. What little I had was
all warm weather. Did not take long once I got into British
Columbia to discover the 912 was not real happy at temps
below 50F. I was getting indications it was unhappy in
midrange, but they were not at all truthful or realistic to
the real problem. I had never been into the carbs and was
not about to take one apart, where I was, only to drop a
tiny part, like a fuel needle clip or something, and loose
it in the gravel. This trip I am pretty well read into most
of the little quirks of the engine and how to address them.
Now that I have said that I will probably encounter some
other problem that is entirely new and mysterious to me.
hehehe But that is what makes this sort of adventure
interesting and exciting. It is not always blue skies, tail
winds, and smooth sailing. If it was it would become boring
very quickly. Like flying from here to Oshkosh and back.
:-)
I have rambled enough, but I enjoy sharing my thoughts with
people who enjoy building and flying my kind of airplanes.
See you all at Lakeland.
john h
> It may be a beautiful place to visit but did you look at the high temp
> today?
> I had no real idea how barren that place really is. I thought about
> volunteering to fly wing man with you (just kidding) but after seeing
> those pictures, NO WAY!
> Bil Mk III sn 213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Bil:
No sweat. Been called much worse than that. :-)
john h
> Poligize for the mis spelling of your name in my earlier post.
>
> Thanks, Bil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Substitutions |
Here's a follow up on the note I sent the other day about "substitutions."
It's nice to know that EAA is that quick to follow up on members concerns.
I'm impressed. She makes the point that he "found" the tubing at an
aluminum chair factory, not that it "was" aluminum chair tubing. True, but
does anyone blame me for making the assumption ?? ( Boy, the words I
pick for myself - has anyone tried typing "substitutions" ?? How 'bout
"aluminum" ?? Try it several times. ) Concerned
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mary Jones <mjones(at)eaa.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 11:52 AM
Subject: RE: Substitutions
> Mr. Bourne,
>
> As I read the article, and from info I received from Mr. Eldredge, it was
an
> aluminum extrusion he found a chair factory, but wasn't "chair tubing."
I'd
> agree that's a little vague.
>
> Unfortunately,I've lost track of Mr. Eldredge's e-mail address, so I'm
going
> to send him your note/comments and ask him to clarify that item for both
of
> us.
>
> Thank you for writing with your concern. It's certainly a valid one.
>
> M. Jones
> Editor - EXPERIMENTER
>
> > ----------
> > From: Larry Bourne
> > Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 3:14 PM
> > To: experimenter(at)eaa.org
> > Subject: Substitutions
> >
> > I read the article in your Jan. 2000 issue, "Building on a Budget," with
a
> > fair amount of shock. More shock since I haven't seen any comment in
the
> > 2
> > subsequent issues. On page 41, section 2., Scrounge; the author tells
> > of
> > saving money by substituting aluminum chair tubing for chromoly ( ??? )
> > in
> > the lift struts. This makes my blood run cold. What about his neck
??
> > What about someone else that takes his advice, and has an accident ??
> > When
> > I went to school, the lift struts were the components on a high wing
> > aircraft that keep the wings from folding up in flight. If one were to
> > break, the occupant(s) of the aircraft would have a serious problem, to
> > say
> > the least. Am I reading this wrong ?? Did I miss something ?? I sure
> > hope so. Larry Bourne. EAA 474411
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
>If the down-wash theory is correct, then why does a sailboat move toward
the
>wind when close hauled? There is a low pressure area in front of the sail
>pulling it forward.
I was going to let this thread go but you've forced me into it!
A sailboat moves just like a wing flies, by throwing air backward (in the
airplane down), which by equal and oposite reactions of Newton's laws forces
the boat forwards (airplane up). How does the wing/sail throw the air?
via pressure differential created by angle of attack with or without camber.
a flat plate at an angle of attack develops higher pressure on the bottem
and lower pressure on the top, due entirely to ram effect, and makes a lot
of lift. a cambered (curved) thin airfoil with parallel top and bottem will
develop some lift at zero AOA. the top being curved more then the bottem on
a thick wing is simply a reflection of camber. the wing is only thick for
structural and storage reasons, and for minmum drag.
the thing to remember is that the wing throws air , the air puts pressure on
the wing. all of the pressure on the wing is positive. there is no such
thing as negative pressure. only low and high pressure, but they are all
positive. so the top of a wing does not suck the plane into the sky. that
would be imposible, cause there is no negative pressure. the difference in
pressure between the top and bottem results in a net force up. this
differance in pressure and the throwing of the air down by the wing are not
independent or one caused by the other. they are both the result of the
wing moving through the air.
Sailboats under sail have no power source pushing them
>through the air.
yes they do, the wind is the powersource, just like updrafts are the
powersource for sail planes. this is why a sailboat goes the fastest close
hauled, its own speed adds to the wind speed developing more thrust. it
never can go straight at the wind though!!!
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights |
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Date: Thursday, March 30, 2000 9:46 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights
>
>Topher, it
>sound like you have not yet flown a Kolb.
In my one flight in a Kolb so far we did only power on stalls. your right
power off stalls would be sneakier. all the more reason for the AOA gage. I
have done power off stalls and dead stick landings in my old Rotec Rally 2B,
you want to talk about slowing down fast. 210 square feet of single
surface wing with 8 flying and 8 landing wires and 4 more wires going to the
tail. a pilot cage that looks like a 2 big U's and 2 big triangles held
together with bungie cord, ( I am not kidding) and a big prop with a clutch
that allowed it to freewheel after engine shutdown. Power off I could go
down steeper then 30 degrees and never exceed 50 MPH indicated. stall speed
was around 18 MPH. I actually foot launched it once in a stiff wind by
taking only two steps and a hop. Really taught me that when the noise stops
put the nose down now!
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights |
>
>Eugene,
>
> The difference at high altitude is that the air is very very smooth, so
that
>any little vibration or change could be felt. At landing there usually is
some
>turbulance to "mask" signs of a stall.
>
>John Jung
once you are stalled you would feel the same downward acceleration to your
sink rate, even if the plane is very smooth in the stall.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings/AOA Ind |
BILLBEAM(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Duane,
>
> Your sagging fabric idea gave me another similar thought (watch out)!!!
>
> If lift is generated by a lower pressure on top of the wing than the lower
> side,
> why not install a probe on the top of the wing, flush with the surface, with
> tubing running inside to a vacuum gauge? Or maybe one on top and one on
> the bottom to measure the pressure differential of the wing surfaces.
In theory this might work. However, the pressure on the top of the wing
will vary all over the map both span wise and chord wise. It is the
integration of the pressure over the entire surface that would have to
be compared to the same on the bottom to achieve the result you want.
Take one helluva lot of sensors. Also, how do you make a truly "flush"
senson? Remember that to measure or observe something you change it.
>
> In static condition the Pd would be zero, and as lift increases the Pd would
> decrease.
> Would this equate to Angle of Attack?
>
> I tried the yarn on the side of the window, but it was just too unstable to be
> reliable.
>
> I talked to a man from Rite Angle Company about AOA systems for U/L planes.
> He will be at Fun-n-Sun with some systems he sells. I think they are a bit
> expensive, but if AOA was good enough for Orville and Wilbur, it's good
> enough for me.
>
> Bill
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: shorter wings/AOA Ind |
Gil,
Good questions. I will have to consult with one of the "Wizards" to get some
opinions.
Seems like a hole like GA planes use for pitot static outlet placed in the
mid point
of the camber of the top of the wing and one on the center of the bottom would
work. Use an old airspeed indicator with the top line running to the static
port
and the lower to the pitot port. The lower pressure on the upper surface would
tend to pull the ASI needle up as lift increases.
I'd better stop here before my head explodes.
Bill Beams
Wilmore, Ky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> A sailboat moves just like a wing flies, by throwing air backward (in the
> airplane down), which by equal and oposite reactions of Newton's laws forces
> the boat forwards (airplane up).
>
> Topher
Topher:
Thanks for the explanation. Never heard it explained like
you did. Even I can understand that.
We are extremely lucky to have this List and the wide
variety of expertise by its members. Not many questions
that can not be answered correctly here.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights |
I chatted with a Lear 45 pilot a while back who made the comment at max.
altitude, that the stall/cruise/top speed are about 10 knots apart... I
took my hat off to a guy that can maintain that good of airspeed control
(That $100,000 worth of avionics in the dash probably helps , autopilot ,
etc....) Still impressive...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
> << I agree, "A stall is a stall is stall," but my point is "feelings" at
> 1000 ASL and "feelings" at 15000 ASL may another matter entirely. >>
>
> "Feelings" has to do with "Q," which is dynamic pressure. Take a jet to
the
> "coffin corner of its envelope and you have 'feelings" as if you were
sitting
> on a pin point. Early jet transports suffered several upsets in this
regime.
> An old jet instructor of mine, a former BAC test pilot, once described the
> control inputs required as "milking a mouse." A couple of knots more and
you
> are in mach buffet, a couple less and you are near stall.
>
> Of course we have little need for "milking" technique in our airplanes,
but
> it is true that at higher altitudes the airplane "feels" different.
>
> FWIW
>
> Bill George
> Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
On the stall indicator thread , I have one other suggestion. I examined a
"stall strip" on the leading edge of the wing of a Piper Seminole
(twin-engine). I had never seen this type (haven't seen alot of things ,
but I do keep looking...) of sensor before. It was a thin piece of
aluminum about 1/2" wide and about 1" long stuck out in front of the leading
edge of the wing. It had a bend in it angling it down slightly. The theory
here I believe is that as you are in normal flight air pressure forces the
strip down , but as the wing approachs critical angle of attack then the
airflow would get under the strip and lift it up , thus pressing some sort
of microswitch , setting of a stall warning device. Fairly simple I
thought..biggest concern I could see though would be airport rash. Curious
people playing with it or accidently bumping it could bend it slightly and
hence affect how it read. Wouldn't be AS BIG of a danger on the leading
edge of a high wing as it would be on a low wing , but still...
On the fabric "lift" idea , wouldn't the fabric "unload" only AFTER the
stall??? I'm just thinking out loud here , not trying to shoot holes in
ideas , it just seems that that would just tell you that you had JUST
STALLED and of course you would already know it at that point... I might not
fully grasp what is happening there though...I guess part of the wing would
"unload" first.
On the power off stall thing...I certainly am not advocating changing things
against the plans but here is a thought...The old Ercoupes were "elevator
limited" meaning that their range of motion was limited to the point that
you didn't have enough up elevator travel to MAKE it stall even if you
wanted to!!! Now in something like a Kolb this would be tricky to do even
if you wanted to due to the offset high thrust line and all but while we're
kicking around ideas I thought I'd mention it. It is my understanding
(never flew an Ercoupe) that this limiting didn't affect any other
performance or handling charactistic due to the fact that at higher speeds
you don't need near the range of motion as you do at low speeds (near power
off stall speeds...) but once again in a Kolb with the high thrust line it
would seem that at high power settings that you might need progressivly more
up elevator to balance the increased thrust. Any thoughts or comments
beyond the obvious , "DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT , JUST FLY THE PLANE!!!!" . On
of the big things I love about this list is the exchange of ideas. We can
kick them around in cyberspace and have people more knowledgeable than
yourself point out things you might have missed.
I remember hearing someone on Discovery channel or somewhere make a comment
that engineers/designers can come up with great ideas all day long but
sooner or later someone has to get in it and FLY IT!!! And my business
card doesn't say "Test pilot"
Sorry for being so long-winded. Avoiding going to work here as long as
possible this morning...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stall indicator |
Hey Gang:
I always fly with a stall warning device. Have since day
one, flying fixed wing. Rotary wing didn't concern myself
to much on approaches with the air speed indicator. But
fixed wings are different. If I get too slow on short final
I am going to fall right out of the sky. I know. I have
done just that. It is an awesome, helpless feeling to stop
being a pilot and become a passenger at 30 feet while flying
solo. No sweat though. The Kolb has full aileron,
elevator, and rudder control right through the stall. Big
problem: No lift. At least I crashed in a level attitude.
:-)
All pilots are different. I know I am because I keep cross
checking my ASI every time I shoot an approach or am playing
around at low level and low air speeds. I for one can not
always differentiate the difference between perceived ground
and air speed, especially on a day when it is windy and
gusty. Especially when I am making a low level, down wind
turn. If I keep an eye on the ASI and keep my air speed 5
or 10 mph over indicated stall speed, I ain't gonna stall.
Flying factory airplanes at S&F is not all that much fun.
Not counting the crowded skies and other pilots, some who
fly like city folks drive in rush hour traffic. To make the
factory airplanes look good we like to make impressive max
performance takeoffs and slow, steep approaches with little
as possible roll out. Lakeland Airport and Paradise City
grass strip are always windy, always a 90 deg cross wind.
Add to that all shapes and sizes of airplanes contantly
taking off and landing. Now we have a real mix mash of air
as it tumbles and rolls over that big ditch and high hedge
row that parallels the south edge of the air strip.
Takeoffs aren't that much of a problem. It is the slowwwwww
landings that can bite us in the butt. But with one eye on
the ASI, one hand on the throttle, we can ride just a notch
or two above stall and make impressively short landings.
Really impressive if the wind stops momentarily on short
final. Sometimes we are blessed with a 10 to 20 mph
quartering headwind or a direct headwind. Then we can
really make folks think we know what we are doing, pulling
those Kolbs up short. If you watch us, we will use every
bit of that wide grass strip to our advantage to get the
nose of the aircraft into the wind as much as possible. Of
course this aggrevates the other pilots and the Air Ops
volunteers. We get counseled and make long B-52 approaches
again until things cool off. Can't wait to get to
Lakeland. :-)
Will be there next Tuesday in the Main Camp Ground. Old
1992 red Dodge/Cummins with a big aluminum Taylor Wing
(inverted airfoil wind deflector) on the cab, and a white
Free Spirit 5th Wheel, parked somewhere close to and on the
west side of the pond near a water faucet.
Ya'll come.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rayfield, Don" <drayfiel(at)kcc.com> |
To Topher. It is nice to hear of another UL pilot who actually admits to
having had and flown a Rotec Ralley 2B. I had one in 1980-1981 . Your
description was very accurate of the stall characteristics and the airplane
in general except that it was IMHO a piece of lawn chair junk with sailboat
controls. I feel fortunate that I survived it ,but it was a unique flying
experience.
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged,
confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure
under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly
by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy.
Thank you.
==============================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights |
Topher,
Yes, that was kind of my point. Most people think that Kolbs have a mild stall
because they tend to keep the wings level and are smooth and recover quickly. But
they
have no idea how much altitude they lost, until it happens close to the ground.
Then they
buy new gear legs if they are lucky.
John Jung
Christopher John Armstrong wrote:
>
>
> once you are stalled you would feel the same downward acceleration to your
> sink rate, even if the plane is very smooth in the stall.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Perry" <ronaldpe(at)shenessex.heartland.net> |
| Subject: | LIFT, AS IN AIRPLANE WING |
OK Everyone,
Found an interesting web-site that discusses lift generated by an airfoil.
Seems, as I read it, that it validates those who say air being forced
downward generates lift, not the "vacuum" above the airfoil.
Go to: http://www.aa.washington.edu/faculty/eberhardt/lift/htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Perry" <ronaldpe(at)shenessex.heartland.net> |
| Subject: | Lift of an airfoil |
Interesting web-site to visit. Explains lift quite extensively.
http://www.aa.washington.edu/faculty/eberhardt/lift.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald Perry" <ronaldpe(at)shenessex.heartland.net> |
This is the 3rd time I've tried to send this e-mail, but kept getting it
returned because I was using Rich HTML. I think I've disabled that, so
maybe this time.
Found an interesting web-site that discusses lift of a wing and seems to
validate those who believe air being forced downward is what generates lift
and not the "vacuum" above the wing. Read it and come to your own
conclusion. Interesting.
http://www.aa.washington.edu/faculty/eberhardt/lift.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
> A stall warning is to tell
> people that they are stalled. this may have significant
value in a 747
> where there isn't a huge amount of feel in flying the
whale, but in an
> ultralight, if you dont know your stalled you deserve to
crash. they shake
> and drop like stones and your stomach comes up in your
throat.
it seems to me that the stall warning horn in a cesna 150
would go off about 5 mph above the stall and would give
warning of an impending stall with enough time to do
something about it. the switch was mounted on the leading
edge in such a position as to detect the aoa not the
airspeed. maybe it is more correct to say that the horn
would go off a couple of degrees before a stall and not
necessarily 5 mph above the stall. during flight training
i was given an hour or so on accelerated stall. which is
when you are well above stall speed and pull hard back on
the stick and increase the aoa above the stall point.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert L Doebler <robertdoebler(at)juno.com> |
I always thought , as a rule of thumb. 30% of lift was developed under
the wing and 70% from above. This will vary with type of air foil. The
way I interpret this is 30% lift is from air being compressed under the
wing and 70% of lift from the difference between the low air pressure
above the wing, and the high pressure below the wing.
Bernoull's principle states "as the velocity of a fluid (gas) increases,
the pressure in the fluid decreases. The air on the top of the wing must
increase, as it has farther to go, to meet the air from under the wing as
it reaches the trailing edge of the wing.
I know a wing can't be "sucked" up, because a vacuum cannot produce work.
Therefor all of
the lift vector is produced from under the wing, and it is a composite of
compression and pressure differential. I'm no aeronautical engineer, but
this is my humble opinion.
Topher...am I all wet , or was my science class from high school
correct--and that was some 40 years ago. Now if I could only remember
what I did with my car keys 3 minutes ago! Gettin old ain't so
hot....but it beats the alternative!
Bob Doebler
F/S II-503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights |
John Jung, I can vouch for those sudden stalls at low altitude. I did several
when I was trying to do flaired landings in my FireFly. It's a neat trick and
I know it would really be handy if you had to get her in a short field but
you had better be on your toes !!!
Duane the plane in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rayfield, Don" <drayfiel(at)kcc.com> |
To Topher : It is nice to hear of another UL pilot who actually admits
having had and flown a Rotec Ralley 2B. I had one in 1980-1981. Your
description was very accurate of the stall characteristics and the plane in
general. InMHO it was a piece of junk compared to todays planes and I think
it was mostly lawn chair type construction with sailboat controls. I feel
fortunate I survived about 25 hours in one, but it was a unique flying
experience.
Don Rayfield
E-mail drayfiel(at)kcc.com
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged,
confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure
under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly
by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy.
Thank you.
==============================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Stalls in Kolbs vs other ultralights |
I appreciate all the responses on this thread. No one has mentioned that most
wings start the stall at one point (the root, the tip) before it loses all
lift. 1/ The fabric sag detector/stall detector should be located at that
point to provide the max warning time. If the wing total stall is really
quick then even this warning would still be too late. 2/ The suggested fabric
detector would be activated whenever the plane is not flying which means
another switch. Bummer I don't need any more chores. Time for fabrication,
installation and testing.....Yuk!... maybe in the Fall....
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FF sn 007, 447, IVO, Stits Poly, 8" Spinner
wheels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
| Subject: | Original Firestar kolb |
Does anyone have any pictures of a BRS VLS chute mounted on Firestar, BRS
claims it hasn't been done. Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 912 Installation |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Fellow Kolbers,
I am trying to lay out the installation of this beautiful piece of metal.
I have no documentation which shows the location of mounting holes in
the "L" brackets which attach to the engine. Also there is no
direction/documentation as to which mounting holes in the engine are to
be used and the consequential x axis of the engine.
If I have missed something I would appreciate anyone/everyone pointing me
in the right direction.
Thanks in advance.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Rayfield, Don <drayfiel(at)kcc.com>
Date: Friday, March 31, 2000 9:52 AM
March 06, 2000 - March 31, 2000
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-bz