Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cc
May 17, 2000 - June 10, 2000
Take care,
john h (hauck's holler, alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 05/16/00 |
>>>>The eng seems to be dialed in correctly. I actuated the
enricher at cruise, immediately lost rpm. If the eng is
running real close to over lean, by opening the enricher eng
rpm will increase about 200 rpm.>>>>>
question for john
on the disk for the enrichening valve there is a small hole(
smaller than the enrichening jet) that is activated by
pulling the enrichening valve 1/2 pull. and a larger hole
when pulling the valve full. is the 1/2 pull to lean
the mix and the full pull to enrichen the mix???
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 05/16/00 |
> on the disk for the enrichening valve there is a small hole(
> smaller than the enrichening jet) that is activated by
> pulling the enrichening valve 1/2 pull. and a larger hole
> when pulling the valve full. is the 1/2 pull to lean
> the mix and the full pull to enrichen the mix???
>
> boyd
Boyd and Gang:
Got me on that one.
I didn't know there was but one way to operate the enricher,
closed or wide open. Did not know there was an inbetween.
I do know that this little trick works on 2 and 4 cycle
Rotax engines to see if they are running rich or lean.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: faa inspection |
I think I would ask him to justify why his attachment plan is better.
Obviously it is more "airplaney", inasmuch as that's how standard category
airplanes are done, but what makes it better?
My initial reaction to the Kolb installation method was that it was tacky,
perhaps an afterthought, but it is actually the best solution.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
Technical Counselor EAA 442
>
>had the faa inspection this week and the inspector did not
>like the way the seat belts attached to the airframe. i
>showed him the drawings in the booklet. he still was not
>impressed. he wanted a metal bracket sewed to the belt and
>bolted to the airframe. Anyone else had this problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
Couple years ago I still had points on my 532 powered MKIII, and just
before heading to Oshkosh I replaced them with a set from those discount
guys that run the multi paged pink ads in the middle of Ultralight Flying
magazine. When they started to go bad after only 8 hours, and close up, it
retarded the ignition, the 532 ran smooth but puny. A MKIII with 64 HP is a
joy, a MKIII with notably less than that is not near as much fun. I don't
know how much less horsepower I had, but it turned a great airplane into a
real bowser. The best part is that several people suggested it might be
timing, but since I had just checked the points 2 days before I set out, I
"knew" that couldn't be the problem...DUH!
A local about 40 miles south of here built a MKIII that was real bare
bones, very nice, I think he got it in at about 450 pounds with a 503 DCDI,
flew off the 40 hours and sold it, East Tennessee is mountainous enough
that he was dissatisfied with the climb rate when he had his wife along.
(Neither of them were all that big)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Anybody out there running a 503 Rotax on a Mark III? My budget might force
>me to consider this powerplant and was wondering if Kolb's advertized
>performance is close? 52 hp doesn't sound like alot to me! Any input would
>be appreciated! Thanks guys!
>
>Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
| Subject: | Original Firestar |
Can anyone tell me how high the bottom of the cage at the wheel struts
should be off the ground. I put different wheels and new struts on last year
and since then It's been difficult to put the wing clevis pin in, by putting
the bigger wheels on I know it has raised the height of the plane, and is
there any advantage or disadvantage to being higher or lower. Thanks Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Two Up MK III/912S |
Hi Gang:
Spent two hours this morning flying my son on a VR (visual
recon) of an area 30 miles north of my airfield, looking
for areas to hunt indian relics. Was a good test for Miss
P'fer.
We took off with 360 lbs of pilot and passenger, plus 20
gals of fuel, another 120 lbs, for a grand total of 480
lbs. The airplane weighs well over 600 lbs (Dennis Souder
weighed it during my stop over at Homer Kolb's in 1994, 630
lbs) for a gross weight, this morning, of about 1,110 lbs.
Temps in the 80s, wind out of the south 10 gusting to 20
mph. No sweat. Got airborne after a very short ground
roll. At 1000 ft had 20 to 30 mph wind. Rough as Hell.
Climbed between 1500 and 2000 ft a minute, but that was with
some help from all those thermals we were banging around
in. ;-)
The engine now has 5.3 hours on it. Oil temps are coming
down some as the engine runs in. I remember the 912 did the
same thing when it was new. It took about 75 to 100 hours
to get it loosened up and running cooler. The 912S runs
very smoothly at all speeds, still idles right on 1600 rpm
after it gets hot. Has a little gear back lash during start
sequence. More pronounced after the engine is hot.
Combination of high compression, 10.5 to 1 compared to 9.0
to 1 for the 912 and weight of the Warp Drive, so I am
told. Probably going to have to live with this.
The update on the Sigtronics SPA400 to a SPA400N has made a
remarkable difference to intercom communication and also
noise level during transmissions on the KX99. In addition,
I am using Sigtronics M80H mics on the DC H10-40 head sets.
I am extremely happy with the new setup. What a difference.
It feels good to fly with neutral pressure on the rudder
pedals, yet I still catch myself unconsciously putting
pressure on the right pedal. Guess it is going to take a
few hours to get used to this.
Cooling system is working good. Not getting any coolant
dumped overboard, except thru the 1/8 inch hole in the cap
on my recovery bottle. This little bit is caused by
overfilling the bottle and also extremely steep angles of
climb. I think once all the air is bled from the coolant
system and I find the best level for the recovery bottle, I
will have no more coolant loss.
Overall, I am impressed with my new 912S, the 72 inch Warp
Drive, and the complete MK III package. I had a good set up
for the 1994 flight, and this one is much better. Should
not have any excuse for not making a successful flight to
Oshkosh by way of Barrow, Alaska.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Two Up MK III/912S |
John you just keep making me more and more envious , really sounds great.
Hope everything keeps going well. If you get a chance you can stop by
southwest Arkansas ( Lewisville) for as long as you want. We will treat you
in so many ways you are bound to like some of them.
Take Care RH MK3 912.
DO NOT ACCHIVE
> Hi Gang:
>
> Spent two hours this morning flying my son on a VR (visual
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: helmets & intercom |
Group,
If anyone would like to save some money on an intercom system, I
will sell a complete set for $300. It's a Comtronics Ultra-Com and two
Ultra-Pro helmets. The intercon is less than one year old. The helmets
are older. One is blue, large and in good condition. The other is
white, extra large and excellent condition. This system cost about $600
when new.
If interested, e-mail me at jrjung(at)execpc.com
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Artdog1512(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | randy at gettysburg ... |
<< Kolb-List message posted by: "Randy" >>
yo randy ! when you gonna come by and see us at Shoestring?
............................... tim (firestar 377)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Re Carbon Removal Tips |
Hello Clive,
Thanks for the encouragement. I often wonder if anyone out there cares. The
UK is way out there for those of us in the States.
I have always heard how tough it is to fly in your country and respect anyone
who can cut through a beaurocracy. Where do you base your plane? Is there a
lot of air space available and can you go touring in your plane? Most of our
folks don't really know how lucky we are here. All we have to do is stay out
of the way of the airliners and try not to crash in a school yard full of
lawyer's kids.
Regards, Duane Mitchell, Tallahassee, Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Original Firestar |
In a message dated 05/18/2000 9:23:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
yamaha(at)cvn.net writes:
<< It's been difficult to put the wing clevis pin in, >>
Hi Randy,
I think I know exactly what you are talking about. On my original FireStar,
the bottom part of that inboard wing rib hits against the fuselage/cage down
tube (while the outboard end of the wing is lying on the ground) preventing
alignment of the clevis pin holes. My clevis pin hole is located exactly in
the center of the tab (measured up and down) and if I were doing it again, I
would locate that hole lower on the tab, which would give just a little more
clearance. If the ground is exactly level, then it just barely makes it, but
if the ground slopes away from the fuselage cage, then the wing rib hits and
there is no way the pin can line up. The ground sloping upward from the
fuselage to the wingtips would be ideal.
To overcome the problem, I dug a couple of small dished out holes in the
ground (3 to 4" deep) for each wheel to sit in (but not at the same time).
To set the wings up for flying, I first push the plane out of the hangar,
placing ONE wheel in a dugout. Now the plane leans over to one side,
permitting plenty of clearance to get the pin in on that side. After that is
done, I roll the plane forward until the other wheel goes into the other
dugout and do that wing.
I had originally made a ramp out of wood, so when one wheel was up on the
ramp, the opposite side was down enough to get the pin in, but the plane
would roll off the ramp on occasion. The small dugouts work a lot better and
they also act as a chock to keep the plane still.
I know it sounds like a goofy answer for the problem and people are always
asking me "why the holes in the ground", but it works for me!
By the way, there's a breakfast fly-in at Smoketown, Pa on Sun 5/28 and
weather permitting I'll be there. How about you?
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Original Firestar |
Bill and Randy and Group,
I may be misunderstanding the problem, but it sounds like it has been
addressed in the plans as a modification (if needed). The lower corner of the
tab can be cut off to allow the wings to be lowered to the ground, before
pulling the pins. The other method that people use is a stand. I used a stand on
my original Firestar and didn't learn of the mod until I built my Firestar II.
It is so much easier, that they all should be that way. But they don't come with
the mod in case someone needs to drill the hole lower. Then they would need the
metal there, and would not need the mod.
I hope that this helps.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
WVarnes(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 05/18/2000 9:23:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> yamaha(at)cvn.net writes:
>
> << It's been difficult to put the wing clevis pin in, >>
>
> Hi Randy,
>
> I think I know exactly what you are talking about. On my original FireStar,
> the bottom part of that inboard wing rib hits against the fuselage/cage down
> tube (while the outboard end of the wing is lying on the ground) preventing
> alignment of the clevis pin holes. My clevis pin hole is located exactly in
> the center of the tab (measured up and down) and if I were doing it again, I
> would locate that hole lower on the tab, which would give just a little more
> clearance. If the ground is exactly level, then it just barely makes it, but
> if the ground slopes away from the fuselage cage, then the wing rib hits and
> there is no way the pin can line up. The ground sloping upward from the
> fuselage to the wingtips would be ideal.
>
> To overcome the problem, I dug a couple of small dished out holes in the
> ground (3 to 4" deep) for each wheel to sit in (but not at the same time).
> To set the wings up for flying, I first push the plane out of the hangar,
> placing ONE wheel in a dugout. Now the plane leans over to one side,
> permitting plenty of clearance to get the pin in on that side. After that is
> done, I roll the plane forward until the other wheel goes into the other
> dugout and do that wing.
>
> I had originally made a ramp out of wood, so when one wheel was up on the
> ramp, the opposite side was down enough to get the pin in, but the plane
> would roll off the ramp on occasion. The small dugouts work a lot better and
> they also act as a chock to keep the plane still.
>
> I know it sounds like a goofy answer for the problem and people are always
> asking me "why the holes in the ground", but it works for me!
>
> By the way, there's a breakfast fly-in at Smoketown, Pa on Sun 5/28 and
> weather permitting I'll be there. How about you?
>
> Bill Varnes
> Original FireStar 377
> Audubon NJ USA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
| Subject: | Original Firestar |
-Bill
I will be there with my MK III if it is rained out on Sunday and they go to
the rain date which is Monday 5/29. I'll be out of town on Sunday.
Terry
By the way, there's a breakfast fly-in at Smoketown, Pa on Sun 5/28 and
weather permitting I'll be there. How about you?
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dallas Shepherd <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net> |
Boyd:
Bought the flightcom intercom and headsets at the 1996 Sun & Fun fly in,
and after having so much trouble with them, I bought the Lightspeed 20K
at the 1997 S&F flyin. My radio(Icom-22A) works well with it, but the
flightcom intercom still wouldn't overcome the noise. I thought maybe
it was my intercom box, so bought another intercom from Aircraft Spruce,
but the same results. I then ask the Kolb list for help and Richard
Harris told me about Sigtronics that he was using in his Kolb, so I
bought them(this was getting expensive), and they work.
Will sell the two Flightcom intercoms, and the two headsets for
$150.00, and the Lightspeed 20K for the same amount,$150.00. No
intercom with it.
On the Jabiru, I do not have an oil cooler on it. So far it hasn't
exceeded the limit. My flight two days ago indicated a oil temp of 162
degrees. Maybe that will change in the real hot weather, don't know. I
have 21 hours on the engine right now. The flight the other night with
weight at gross gave me an indicated air speed of 95 at 3100 rpm. I
didn't have my gps on to check ground speed. I had one of those 225+
pounders with me(big one) and it was kinda crowded. We were just going
for a short flight around the area. I still have the breakin oil in it,
which is mineral oil. It says to change it at 25 hours to regular
aircraft engine oil.
I have been flying solo for sometime and when I got the extra
weight in, on the second landing, I bent another gear, on his side. I
still have two more of the aluminum as spares, but I think I want to go
to the steel ones. I just can't seem to grease those landings.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cjcullen" <cjcullen(at)mediaone.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centuryinter.net>
> ... I want to practice some cross countrys with the
> jabiru engine before the Kolb fly in this September.
I've been unsubscribed from the Kolb list for a while.
Does the message above refer to a flyin at Kolb HQ in Kentucky?
Is there anything else going on?
I thought I read there might be a group of Kolb aircraft flying to Oshkosh
this July
from the East coast. I fly out of Cranland Airport, Hanson, MA.
The EAA 279 built Kolb MkIII is under repair at the moment but it ought to
be back in the air in a couple of weeks. We had a problem this winter
involving
a snow storm and a new club hanger with the Kolb in it.
The hanger got blown down and there are a few holes in the wings that we are
patching.
I have read a lot about how nasty MEK is. Whoever said that was right.
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Original Firestar |
I carry a 3'x4' piece of foam 6'' thick to lay the wing tip on.that might
give you the added clearance you need.G..Aman FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WingManBill2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: randy at gettysburg ... |
Is Shoestring open again?? Any Kolbs up there? Sure wish there was a Mark
III here in the DC metro area!!
Bill J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd's Email" <todd(at)tnkolbaircraft.com> |
Hi Gang.
I have arrived! Got to Kolb Factory yesterday afternoon.
Departed hauck's holler Friday afternoon aprx 1700. Arrived Moon Town AP,
Alabama, at 1830. Moon Town is a beautiful grass airport aprx 7 miles east
of Huntsville in the Alabama mountains. Stayed there until Sunday morning
aprx 1030. Had a ball. The EAA and ultralight guys are great. Have lots
of participation, even in the rain and fog. BTW: That was 143 miles in 1
hr and 30 min. :-)
Sunday afternoon made my first landing at Pucker Patch, enroute to Chesnut
Knolls Air Foundation. What a blast. I went in there fully loaded. No
Sweat. Howard Ping fed me some lunch and good coffee. He has a beautiful
home place in the Kentucky mountains on the old family homestead. When I
left for the Kolb Factory, I enjoyed Pucker Patch so much I shot another
landing and takeoff before I finally departed for Kolb.
Took me and Miss P'fer 2.5 hrs to fly 207 miles from Moon Town to Kolb.
Weather was marginal, but exciting. Flew direct but once in a while had to
deviate around mountains in order to stay out of the overcast. Some mighty
purty country crossing Alabama, Tennessee, and Kentucky mountains.
I flew 5000 rpm which produced 85 to 88 mph. Do not have a handle on fuel
burn yet. So far only refueled at Moon Town out of 5 gal cans. Wonder how
much fuel I have poured out of 5 gal can over the last 16 yrs. The 912S is
performing great. Only little problem is a slight oil leak out of the two
weep holes in the fuel pump. Can not remember how the pump is sealed from
the gear box, but it is an easy fix.
Intercom, Sigtronics SPA400N intercom works splendidly. No problem picking
us cockpit noise on the intercom or transmitting on the radio. Highly
recommend this system.
Should be heading home about Wed or Thurs.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Original Firestar |
In a message dated 05/20/2000 9:28:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrjung(at)execpc.com writes:
<< The lower corner of the
tab can be cut off to allow the wings to be lowered to the ground, >>
John,
You are right, that cutaway is mentioned in the plans as a way to keep the
"tab" itself from contacting the end of the square tubing.
So now I'm not sure if that is Randys' problem or not.
My problem was the bottom, horizontal part of the rib itself, contacted the
round fuselage downtube. (This round tube is the vertical member which goes
from the square tube down to the landing gear/strut joint.) I had already
done the cutout per plans so that part does not interfere.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>Somewhere in the recess of my mind, I recall something being said about a
>difference between store bought switches and aviation quality switches. I
>have looked through all my library and cannot find any reference that
>directs an answer to this ponderence. Tony Bingelis says that there are
>probably many 'Radio Shack' switches out there in homebuilt aircraft, but it
>bothers me to go 'downtown' for switches if I am supposed to be getting
>aircraft switches.
What's an "aircraft" switch? Never saw one with that
terminology marked on it. There's plenty of advertising
hype designed to convince folk that a particular offering
is more suited to aircraft than another product . . .
but no matter how much you spend for a switch, does that
guarantee that it will never fail? If it might fail,
what is your "plan-b" for dealing with the failure? If
you've GOT a plan-b, then is the absolute quality of the
switch all that important?
I can tell you that the row of rockers that went into
tens of thousands of single engine Cessnas cost them
under $1.00 each. The vast majority of those installed
at the factory are still operating 20+ years later.
> . . . Even 'Electric Bob' seems quiet on this topic other than
>to say that the switch should be heavy duty and a snap action switch which
>is rated for the load to be placed on it. Where is the reference that I
>remember about AC and DC rated switches? Can anyone point the way?
I just got back to Wichita after a week of errant electron
stomping in CT . . . working a proble with the de-ice
system on the Beechjet. Took the day off from RAC to try
and catch up on duties at home.
You can download a copy of an article I did for Sport
Aviation a few years ago at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sue" <sue(at)tnkolbaircraft.com> |
| Subject: | Double Out of Pucker Patch |
Hi Gang:
Forgot to mention in my previous post this afternoon that I flew back over
to Pucker Patch, after I unloaded the MK III at the Kolb Factory. After
another cup of coffee with Howard Ping, King of Pucker Patch, I invited
Howard to fly with me and Miss P'fer. Howard readily climbed on board the
"awesome ultralight" from hauck's holler, alabama, and we departed Pucker
Patch. Don't know what the heading was coming in or going out. Doesn't
matter. Also doesn't matter which way the wind is blowing. Still land one
direction only, and take off the other direction only. What a blast!!!
Hit the throttle, the 912S kicks you in the butt, and we were off quick with
a notch of flaps to get us off the bumps a little early. Climbed out at
1200 fpm, straight up and over the mountain which is perpendicular and
straight ahead of the departure end (BTW the only departure end) of the
runway. Howard says I normally make a left hand turn after lift off. I
never climb staight out, up the mountain. :-) He never stopped grinning.
After we got over the mountain, we flew at 85 to 90 mph to a beautiful
waterfall, CRS the name of it, aprx 16 miles away. Checked the stall on the
way home, aprx 45 clean (this may have been a little lower, but beg CRS
once again), and 37 with full flaps. Eased thru the gap in the ridge
directly in front of Howard's airstrip, chopped power, went to full flaps,
and slipped right back into Pucker Patch.
It was very late in the evening and I had just enough time to fly the 12
miles back to the Kolb Factory before dark. Did not want to lose my
daylight and attempt a night landing at the unlighted grass field. It gets
really dark in those mountains in the Daniel Boone National Forrest.
What a day! What a flight! Howard and I had a ball.
Take care,
john h
PS: Flew up to Stanton, Ky, (53 miles north east) to see the gang at Lite
Speed Quick Build, the folks that do the quick build for Kolb Aircraft. A
number one group of aircraft craftsmen. They have a great facility and on
top of that, they turn out professional work. Nothing but professional
quality products come out their door. I am also told they are not only
good, but quick. If you need something special fabricated, give them a
call.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Original Firestar |
Bill
My problem is the bottom part of the rib hits the cage, I know if you hold
the wing up with a box or stand it gives it enough clearance. My question
was how high the bottom of the cage should be above the ground, I thought
maybe I could cut the wheel legs to lower the plane and that would line the
holes up with the wing tips on the ground. Let me know if you have any
ideas Thanks Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: WVarnes(at)aol.com <WVarnes(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, May 22, 2000 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Original Firestar
>
>In a message dated 05/20/2000 9:28:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>jrjung(at)execpc.com writes:
>
><< The lower corner of the
> tab can be cut off to allow the wings to be lowered to the ground, >>
>
>John,
>
>You are right, that cutaway is mentioned in the plans as a way to keep the
>"tab" itself from contacting the end of the square tubing.
>
>So now I'm not sure if that is Randys' problem or not.
>
>My problem was the bottom, horizontal part of the rib itself, contacted the
>round fuselage downtube. (This round tube is the vertical member which
goes
>from the square tube down to the landing gear/strut joint.) I had already
>done the cutout per plans so that part does not interfere.
>
>Bill Varnes
>Original FireStar 377
>Audubon NJ USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
dchristi(at)ala.net, lcorser(at)yahoo.com, drcowan(at)mindspring.com,
bluebird2(at)sprintmail.com, dfdefelix(at)digitalexp.com, rfuller(at)rose.net,
griffeyj(at)home.com, LRPS29a(at)prodigy.com, bharris(at)totalsystem.com,
hawk36(at)mindspring.com, Michael.Highsmith(at)worldnet.att.net,
Robertandjune(at)juno.com, jrholbrook(at)hotmail.com, n357dk(at)mindspring.com,
chrisandcarole(at)mail.com, grayk(at)surfsouth.com, lindy(at)snowhill.com,
Bluebirdlovel(at)aol.com, jaydog(at)ala.net, RJMATHEWS(at)aol.com,
mccomb28(at)earthlink.net, warppman(at)mciworld.com, Carey0658(at)aol.com,
grinck(at)rocketmail.com, DSmith4445(at)aol.com, flysmla(at)datasync.com,
Edselcar(at)aol.com, LASERJ2(at)aol.com, FSTAR(at)webtv.net,
rstumpf(at)catinet.com, dthomas(at)compumise.com, toddatlucile(at)alltel.net,
cristucker(at)webtv.net, tyre(at)surfsouth.com, chuck(at)ctenterprises.com,
crwall(at)graceba.net, LOSLOPILOT(at)aol.com, sziegler(at)mindspring.com
Just wanted to remind everyone that here at The Flying C's Planetation we are
having a open fly-in on June 17, 2000. Everyone is welcome (except powered
chutes) to come and enjoy a day of relax'n and fly'n. We will have a
concession of some sort and cold drinks etc. plenty of room to park.
Probably no raindeer games but hopefully will get you guys to compare notes
and give each other rides. Ask Mike Highsmith about "show me yours and I'll
show you mine" type thing. We are rated for 55 knots landing, about 1450' on
top flat with a slight slope to the West to total 2000', East/West. Will be
on 122850 and you can email me for site location any time. We are 15 miles
South of Opelika, Al and about 20 miles West of Columbus, Ga. You can check
Airnav.com at AL51. Will have gas available. Hope to see you. Venders
welcome but spectators are not being invited. Only close friends and our RC
Club. We will keep it relaxed and informal and low keyed. Email for further
details and phone number. Ted Cowan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
Send me the best route to bring my RV-towing the bug. By E-Mail--with the
landmark BP gas station I believe to turn into your place.
Lindy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Original Firestar |
I've loosley lurked this particular thread. My $.02 is that the
problem is much better dealt with by using something to rest the wing
tips on than modifying the airplane. Cutting the gear shorter will
result in a strong[er] tendency to hit tailwheel first on landing. An
earlier suggestion (i think) was to change the angle of incidence by
the root rib tab hole location, at least on new planes. Changing the
wing incidence angle obviously affects flying characteristics, which
should be thought out with way more priority than the problem of
folding the wings.
Not sure if anyone has suggested, but another option might be to leave
the trailing edge tube of the wing open at the end. That way you could
stick a pole in there, effectively giving you a longer wing resting on
the ground. Longer wing= shallower angle. This way you wouldn't have
to guess the correct location of a box on the ground. Either way, the
problem seems minor and I wouldn't mess with the plane itself as a
solution. BTW, is this a per-plans Orig Firestar? I didn't have the
problem on my KXP, even with 18" tundra tires raising my cage 2.5".
-Ben Ransom
--- Randy wrote:
>
> Bill
> My problem is the bottom part of the rib hits the cage, I know if
> you hold
> the wing up with a box or stand it gives it enough clearance. My
> question
> was how high the bottom of the cage should be above the ground, I
> thought
> maybe I could cut the wheel legs to lower the plane and that would
> line the
> holes up with the wing tips on the ground. Let me know if you have
> any
> ideas Thanks Randy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WVarnes(at)aol.com <WVarnes(at)aol.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, May 22, 2000 7:44 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Original Firestar
>
>
> >
> >In a message dated 05/20/2000 9:28:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> >jrjung(at)execpc.com writes:
> >
> ><< The lower corner of the
> > tab can be cut off to allow the wings to be lowered to the ground,
> >>
> >
> >John,
> >
> >You are right, that cutaway is mentioned in the plans as a way to
> keep the
> >"tab" itself from contacting the end of the square tubing.
> >
> >So now I'm not sure if that is Randys' problem or not.
> >
> >My problem was the bottom, horizontal part of the rib itself,
> contacted the
> >round fuselage downtube. (This round tube is the vertical member
> which
> goes
> >from the square tube down to the landing gear/strut joint.) I had
> already
> >done the cutout per plans so that part does not interfere.
> >
> >Bill Varnes
> >Original FireStar 377
> >Audubon NJ USA
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
| Subject: | UPSs at lower prices |
Listees--
Try www.apcc.com for their el cheapo UPSs: factory close-outs, refurbs,
etc.
I bot two 250VA units for $25 each. A few left. Bidding closes 11:00PM
eastern. There were 24 units, now abt 16 gone at $25.
I only need to get thru a few seconds, even a couple of cycles of line
dropout, so the small units are OK for that.
bn
http://members.xoom.com/ronoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
Robert
I am no expert either but recall that a switch must be
rated for the DC load planned. Many switches are
rated for AC (or AC only) and this is not the same. A
switch rated for 2amps AC is not equal to one rated
for 2 amps DC.
As for Radio Sh-- switches, I would check OTHER
electronic suppliers in your area. RS may be OK for
home and auto needs but I would NOT use them in an
airplane.
Regards
Ed
--- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
wrote:
> Nuckolls, III"
>
> >Somewhere in the recess of my mind, I recall
> something being said about a
> >difference between store bought switches and
> aviation quality switches. I
> >have looked through all my library and cannot find
> any reference that
> >directs an answer to this ponderence. Tony Bingelis
> says that there are
> >probably many 'Radio Shack' switches out there in
> homebuilt aircraft, but it
> >bothers me to go 'downtown' for switches if I am
> supposed to be getting
> >aircraft switches.
>
> What's an "aircraft" switch? Never saw one with
> that
> terminology marked on it. There's plenty of
> advertising
> hype designed to convince folk that a particular
> offering
> is more suited to aircraft than another product .
> . .
> but no matter how much you spend for a switch,
> does that
> guarantee that it will never fail? If it might
> fail,
> what is your "plan-b" for dealing with the
> failure? If
> you've GOT a plan-b, then is the absolute quality
> of the
> switch all that important?
>
> I can tell you that the row of rockers that went
> into
> tens of thousands of single engine Cessnas cost
> them
> under $1.00 each. The vast majority of those
> installed
> at the factory are still operating 20+ years
> later.
>
> > . . . Even 'Electric Bob' seems quiet on this
> topic other than
> >to say that the switch should be heavy duty and a
> snap action switch which
> >is rated for the load to be placed on it. Where is
> the reference that I
> >remember about AC and DC rated switches? Can
> anyone point the way?
>
> I just got back to Wichita after a week of errant
> electron
> stomping in CT . . . working a proble with the
> de-ice
> system on the Beechjet. Took the day off from RAC
> to try
> and catch up on duties at home.
>
> You can download a copy of an article I did for
> Sport
> Aviation a few years ago at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( still understand knothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sharp" <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | UV Protection, Interior??? |
Folks..
Well, Dad and I hung a great deal of plastic tonight.. Putting a paint booth
together.. (recieved my citation HVLP from Jim and Dondi)... and Dad had a
question i couldn't answer... which isn't all that unusual... ;-)
What are you guys doing about UV protection to the interior of the kolb???
through the lexan etc. some of the interior of the plane is subject to
sunlight???
Told dad i didn't know, but there were some experts who would.....
Thanks in advance...
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection, Interior??? |
Now, there is a good and valid question. How 'bout it guys ?? I kinda
figured that when I'm not flying, Vamoose will be covered in a silver
wrapper - like ya see on "real" airplanes - but hadn't really got into it
yet. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Sharp <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 7:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: UV Protection, Interior???
>
> Folks..
>
> Well, Dad and I hung a great deal of plastic tonight.. Putting a paint
booth
> together.. (recieved my citation HVLP from Jim and Dondi)... and Dad had a
> question i couldn't answer... which isn't all that unusual... ;-)
>
> What are you guys doing about UV protection to the interior of the
kolb???
> through the lexan etc. some of the interior of the plane is subject to
> sunlight???
>
> Told dad i didn't know, but there were some experts who would.....
>
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> Mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey : You guys reckon Big Lar is still alive. Sure haven't heard from him.
suspect MEK...
You got to get use'ta it Lar. Just watch the visions........
do not achieve
RH MK3 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection, Interior??? |
Silver.
Everywhere the sunlight can be.
Inside.
Outside.
Everywhere.
Then the finish color.
However;... trying to spray the inside rear of the cage, where it narrows,
and you can't get the paint pot in, or aim it correctly, will just give you
an orange peeled/dried out/sorry looking mess. (Guess how I know that?)
Use a brush to paint the inside rear of the cage fabric.
It probably doesn't need to be silver inside there, the wing shades it
pretty well.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
Dad had a
>question i couldn't answer... which isn't all that unusual... ;-)
>
>What are you guys doing about UV protection to the interior of the kolb???
>through the lexan etc. some of the interior of the plane is subject to
>sunlight???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | reply first flight |
>
> Hi Boyd, I have a couple questions. How could you change
> the wing angle
> after it has been rigged, looks like a trim tab would be
> the answer. Did you
> mount the vertical stab on the center line or do you have
> it off to the
> left. About the noise, do you have the full enclosure? I
> think that should
> cut down on some of it. Where do you have the pitot-tube
> located and did you
> fabricate one, or what kind do you have on there. Thanks
> BF
>
bill
i could change the wing angle after rigging by rotating the
universal joint parts. been out to the airport and got
that done tonight. i got about 1/16 in on each side. have
not yet flown it to see how much it changed things yet.
yes the vert stab is in the center. i do have the full
enclosure but have not yet installed the back window. i
am not sure it will fit. need to make sure soon. the
reason is that kolb sent the wrong nose cone (that is a
story in itself.) the nose cone they sent me is to the
firestar, (i think) it is 1/2 inch narrower thus the
1/4 inch i had to bend in the cage on each side, and the
angle on the dash is further forward. i had to reshape the
door frames to fit the angle. and i think the enclosure is
not going to reach the tube at the rear of the door.
SUE are you taking notes??????? the pito static is
coming right out of the front of the nose of the plane.
in some test i did with a blower i could not detect any
pressure or vacuum on the static line however i think that
is the problem, i will try the next time i get in the air
with the static line disconnected. then will try to
manufacture a system that is in use by piper on the newer
super cubs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 05/22/00 |
clive
was flying from the left seat. that is where the brakes
are.
as to the noise, it is coming through the air. working
on internal bateries in the intercom and radio.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Vortex generators |
Howard Shackleford and gang,
Just came back from my second flight with the VG's installed, Everything
happened the same way this time so I guess that I can make a report on
them. It appears that I have decreased my stall by 3 to 4 mph. This is with
the vg's at 11 inches back from the leading edge and on each rib with the
exception of the tips and the inside of the wing. I have them on the false
ribs at the end and at the gap seal. There are two things about them that
improve it tremendously. One is the climb. At full throttle it will climb
seriously at 42 to 43 mph. You can hear the prop begin to burble below that
speed, but it will not stall, just mushes and then starts climbing again.
The second thing is the landings. Granted I have only made two since I
installed them, but the ones before that, were my usual ones, ie difficulty
holding it on the ground due to angle of attack changing with touch down,
there fore the tendency to balloon. You see I have a one way in and one out
strip, and the ground is so rough that I cannot land very far out. The
landings with the generators have been power on attempting to get as close
to the touch down point as I can and keeping it just above stall. All the
landings so far (two) have been a light touch down of the tail wheel and
gently settling of the mains with hardly a bump and no tendency of the
plane to balloon. When the mains touch, it is done flying. The decreased
speed helps a lot too, since I have trees to contend with if I get to far
down the runway. I really like them a lot, and would recommend them to
anyone on the list. I intend to do some experimenting and put some about 3
inches in front of the others to see if that will help a bit more. (I saw a
super cub than had them further in front of the highest point of the wing).
these are now on the highest point of the wing. I could find no ill effects
from them, It flys hands off, and seems that the speed is a bit faster
although I could not say for sure, but seems that way. It did not fly that
well hands off before.
Howard, thanks ever so much for sharing this information. It has made the
firestar a even better plane than before.
Now, someone mentioned a streamlined tubing to go over the struts, I
would like to hear more about that and if they perhaps wanted to share the
cost, since as I recall they said that they came in 10 ft tubes of four to
a package. Would also be interested in hearing the answer to someones
question about what angle they are set at, wing? If I missed the answer (
been gone a lot) I am sorry.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | intercom & headsets |
john
i got the sigronics spa400n for the intercom what
make and model headsets do you have????
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
If you going to be carrying much current at all (strobes, lights, radio)
and you want reliability, I strongly urge you get DC rated switches. Like
the message states below, many switches are rated in Amps AC current, you
need Amps DC.
Reason to make it short and sweet without getting into a lot of technical
detail, an AC switch contacts are made different and cheaper because it can
benefit from the AC power wave crossing zero point (zero current flow) to
help the contacts break without arching. A DC switch does not have this
benefit thus contacts are made of different material which makes them cost
a little more.
I used Cal-Tec switches that CPS sells on two planes and they have worked
great. There size is slightly smaller than a regular size toggle switch.
Cal-Tec makes there parts for resale by auto parts stores. I seen them in
some local auto part stores but not all of them carry them.
jerryb
>
>Robert
>I am no expert either but recall that a switch must be
>rated for the DC load planned. Many switches are
>rated for AC (or AC only) and this is not the same. A
>switch rated for 2amps AC is not equal to one rated
>for 2 amps DC.
>As for Radio Sh-- switches, I would check OTHER
>electronic suppliers in your area. RS may be OK for
>home and auto needs but I would NOT use them in an
>airplane.
>Regards
>Ed
>--- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> wrote:
>> Nuckolls, III"
>>
>> >Somewhere in the recess of my mind, I recall
>> something being said about a
>> >difference between store bought switches and
>> aviation quality switches. I
>> >have looked through all my library and cannot find
>> any reference that
>> >directs an answer to this ponderence. Tony Bingelis
>> says that there are
>> >probably many 'Radio Shack' switches out there in
>> homebuilt aircraft, but it
>> >bothers me to go 'downtown' for switches if I am
>> supposed to be getting
>> >aircraft switches.
>>
>> What's an "aircraft" switch? Never saw one with
>> that
>> terminology marked on it. There's plenty of
>> advertising
>> hype designed to convince folk that a particular
>> offering
>> is more suited to aircraft than another product .
>> . .
>> but no matter how much you spend for a switch,
>> does that
>> guarantee that it will never fail? If it might
>> fail,
>> what is your "plan-b" for dealing with the
>> failure? If
>> you've GOT a plan-b, then is the absolute quality
>> of the
>> switch all that important?
>>
>> I can tell you that the row of rockers that went
>> into
>> tens of thousands of single engine Cessnas cost
>> them
>> under $1.00 each. The vast majority of those
>> installed
>> at the factory are still operating 20+ years
>> later.
>>
>> > . . . Even 'Electric Bob' seems quiet on this
>> topic other than
>> >to say that the switch should be heavy duty and a
>> snap action switch which
>> >is rated for the load to be placed on it. Where is
>> the reference that I
>> >remember about AC and DC rated switches? Can
>> anyone point the way?
>>
>> I just got back to Wichita after a week of errant
>> electron
>> stomping in CT . . . working a proble with the
>> de-ice
>> system on the Beechjet. Took the day off from RAC
>> to try
>> and catch up on duties at home.
>>
>> You can download a copy of an article I did for
>> Sport
>> Aviation a few years ago at:
>>
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf
>>
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> --------------------------------------------
>> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
>> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
>> ( still understand knothing. )
>> ( C.F. Kettering )
>> --------------------------------------------
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim T99" <townsend(at)webound.com> |
Jerry,
Very cool to see people are thinking, I am an EE and
Liked that post. Good info for all who didn't know.
Our Best
Tim T99
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 12:44 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Switches
>
> If you going to be carrying much current at all (strobes, lights, radio)
> and you want reliability, I strongly urge you get DC rated switches. Like
> the message states below, many switches are rated in Amps AC current, you
> need Amps DC.
>
> Reason to make it short and sweet without getting into a lot of technical
> detail, an AC switch contacts are made different and cheaper because it
can
> benefit from the AC power wave crossing zero point (zero current flow) to
> help the contacts break without arching. A DC switch does not have this
> benefit thus contacts are made of different material which makes them cost
> a little more.
>
> I used Cal-Tec switches that CPS sells on two planes and they have worked
> great. There size is slightly smaller than a regular size toggle switch.
>
> Cal-Tec makes there parts for resale by auto parts stores. I seen them in
> some local auto part stores but not all of them carry them.
>
>
> jerryb
>
> >
> >Robert
> >I am no expert either but recall that a switch must be
> >rated for the DC load planned. Many switches are
> >rated for AC (or AC only) and this is not the same. A
> >switch rated for 2amps AC is not equal to one rated
> >for 2 amps DC.
> >As for Radio Sh-- switches, I would check OTHER
> >electronic suppliers in your area. RS may be OK for
> >home and auto needs but I would NOT use them in an
> >airplane.
> >Regards
> >Ed
> >--- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> > wrote:
> >> Nuckolls, III"
> >>
> >> >Somewhere in the recess of my mind, I recall
> >> something being said about a
> >> >difference between store bought switches and
> >> aviation quality switches. I
> >> >have looked through all my library and cannot find
> >> any reference that
> >> >directs an answer to this ponderence. Tony Bingelis
> >> says that there are
> >> >probably many 'Radio Shack' switches out there in
> >> homebuilt aircraft, but it
> >> >bothers me to go 'downtown' for switches if I am
> >> supposed to be getting
> >> >aircraft switches.
> >>
> >> What's an "aircraft" switch? Never saw one with
> >> that
> >> terminology marked on it. There's plenty of
> >> advertising
> >> hype designed to convince folk that a particular
> >> offering
> >> is more suited to aircraft than another product .
> >> . .
> >> but no matter how much you spend for a switch,
> >> does that
> >> guarantee that it will never fail? If it might
> >> fail,
> >> what is your "plan-b" for dealing with the
> >> failure? If
> >> you've GOT a plan-b, then is the absolute quality
> >> of the
> >> switch all that important?
> >>
> >> I can tell you that the row of rockers that went
> >> into
> >> tens of thousands of single engine Cessnas cost
> >> them
> >> under $1.00 each. The vast majority of those
> >> installed
> >> at the factory are still operating 20+ years
> >> later.
> >>
> >> > . . . Even 'Electric Bob' seems quiet on this
> >> topic other than
> >> >to say that the switch should be heavy duty and a
> >> snap action switch which
> >> >is rated for the load to be placed on it. Where is
> >> the reference that I
> >> >remember about AC and DC rated switches? Can
> >> anyone point the way?
> >>
> >> I just got back to Wichita after a week of errant
> >> electron
> >> stomping in CT . . . working a proble with the
> >> de-ice
> >> system on the Beechjet. Took the day off from RAC
> >> to try
> >> and catch up on duties at home.
> >>
> >> You can download a copy of an article I did for
> >> Sport
> >> Aviation a few years ago at:
> >>
> >> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf
> >>
> >>
> >> Bob . . .
> >>
> >> --------------------------------------------
> >> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> >> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> >> ( still understand knothing. )
> >> ( C.F. Kettering )
> >> --------------------------------------------
> >> http://www.aeroelectric.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> through
> >>
> >> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> >> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >>
> >> Matronics!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim T99" <townsend(at)webound.com> |
Hummmmm,
No PPC's, Would you mind telling me why. Just being
nosey. I fly Fixed wing and PPC's, Just wondering.
Tim T99
----- Original Message -----
From: <TCowan1917(at)aol.com>
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ; ;
; ;
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 6:41 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: flyin
>
> Just wanted to remind everyone that here at The Flying C's Planetation we
are
> having a open fly-in on June 17, 2000. Everyone is welcome (except
powered
> chutes) to come and enjoy a day of relax'n and fly'n. We will have a
> concession of some sort and cold drinks etc. plenty of room to park.
> Probably no raindeer games but hopefully will get you guys to compare
notes
> and give each other rides. Ask Mike Highsmith about "show me yours and
I'll
> show you mine" type thing. We are rated for 55 knots landing, about 1450'
on
> top flat with a slight slope to the West to total 2000', East/West. Will
be
> on 122850 and you can email me for site location any time. We are 15
miles
> South of Opelika, Al and about 20 miles West of Columbus, Ga. You can
check
> Airnav.com at AL51. Will have gas available. Hope to see you. Venders
> welcome but spectators are not being invited. Only close friends and our
RC
> Club. We will keep it relaxed and informal and low keyed. Email for
further
> details and phone number. Ted Cowan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom & headsets |
Boyd,
I bought a DRE intercom and DRE 2000 headsets at Sun-N-Fun. I will
be adding Comtronics helmets that fit over the headsets. I had read
about DRE in Kitplanes, then researched them on the web, and finally
talked to them at Sun-N-Fun. I haven't tested then yet. After I do, I
plan to report the results to the group. I picked DRE because it
appeared that I could get top peformance without paying an outragious
price. We'll see.
John Jung
b young wrote:
>
> john
>
> i got the sigronics spa400n for the intercom what
> make and model headsets do you have????
>
> boyd
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sue" <sue(at)tnkolbaircraft.com> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom & headsets |
> i got the sigronics spa400n for the intercom what
> make and model headsets do you have????
>
> boyd
Boyd and Kolbers:
I use David Clark H10-40 and H13.4. Sigtronics sent me some M80H mics for
the 10-40s, but the intercom operates satisfactorily without them. They are
interchangeable with the 10-40s but not the 13.4. I am flying with the
10-40s this trip.
Do you have a 22,000 mf capacitor wired into you 12vdc system at the
reg/rec? The capacitor helps soak up a lot of alternator and ign noise.
Take a look at the diagram in your installation manual. It shows where to
hook it up in the wiring diagram. I used the same capacitor, way back when,
flying the point ign 447's. Made a tremendous difference. Without it I
could not communicate.
Your SPA400N sounds like my system operated before I had it upgraded to the
SPA400N.
Mark Kelly is my contact at Sigtronics. Got to talk to him at Sun and Fun.
Sigtronics does not have experience with the noise problems of ultralight
aircraft, open or closed cockpits, but wants to learn and modify their
system to operate effectively for us. I will be working with him in the
future. Keep me informed of your problems and I will feed them to him.
Maybe we will all be able to communicate comfortably in the future.
Take care,
john h
PS: The windshield/leading edge fairing is laid up. Randy will pop it off
this morning, finish it up in the next couple days and ship to me at hauck's
holler. Wanted to fly home with it, but need to get back and get things
done for the flight next month. It is gonna look good and improve
performance, I hope. How much? I will not know 'til try it. Weather
permitting, will probably depart here this morning, and be home in 4 or 5
hours depending on the wind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
I am going to purchase a BRS for my Firestar II. I was wondering which
style (softpack, canister) chute other firestar pilots purchased. Where
did you install it? Why did you choose your particular style? Do you
have any good / bad experience with your choice of chute or
installation? Any other comments, advise or help would be appreciated.
Thanks for you help in advance.
John N670JW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Ha, you wanna try sniffin' it at 115. Hic ! ! ! Workin' on Lexan
now. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: R. Harris <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 8:06 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: BIG LAR
>
> Hey : You guys reckon Big Lar is still alive. Sure haven't heard from him.
> suspect MEK...
> You got to get use'ta it Lar. Just watch the visions........
>
> do not achieve
> RH MK3 912
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Hi Gang,
Does anyone have any white epoxy primer (poly fiber brand) that they
wouldn't mind getting rid of for a reasonable price or swap for the green
epoxy primer? I bought the green primer and later decided that the white
would work better under the yellow paint that I plan on using. Please
contact me off list or my phone number is (601) 947-6789.
Thanks,
John Cooley
Building FS 1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 05/23/00 |
mike
What are you guys doing about UV protection to the interior
of the kolb???
through the lexan etc. some of the interior of the plane is
subject to
sunlight???
i painted the inside with polly spray silver both outside
and inside where the sunlight could hit just figured it
to be the right thing to do
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BRS parachute |
In a message dated 5/24/00 8:52:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil writes:
<< I am going to purchase a BRS for my Firestar II. I was wondering which
style (softpack, canister) chute other firestar pilots purchased. Where
did you install it? Why did you choose your particular style? Do you
have any good / bad experience with your choice of chute or
installation? Any other comments, advise or help would be appreciated.
Thanks for you help in advance.
John N670JW >>
softpak was cheapest...that was my motivation for buying something that
hopefully I will never use!....also it fits well where I put it under the
boom.]
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators |
In a message dated 5/24/00 1:14:13 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lcottrel(at)kfalls.net writes:
<< Just came back from my second flight with the VG's installed, Everything
happened the same way this time so I guess that I can make a report on
them. It appears that I have decreased my stall by 3 to 4 mph. >>
Way to go, Larry!! Reading posts such as yours makes my efforts worthwhile.
I've heard back from two others who's stall speed dropped by 2 & 5 mph. You
will probably discover some additional benefits of the VG's, such as being
able to turn
your plane 180 degrees using rudder only and make a reasonably good landing
without ever touching the stick [this all takes some careful planning &
practice, but it can be done].
I want to take this opportunity to thank John Jung for re-drawing my VG
plans & posting them as Bitmap & Jpeg.
I still believe this is the best thing you can do to improve the performance
of your plane for under $1,000.
Larry, how long did it take you to fabricate and install your VG's?
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators |
Where are they posted I'd like to try them on my Firestar! I'll take them as
Bitmap or Jpeg
Geoff Thistlethwaite
-----Original Message-----
From: HShack(at)aol.com <HShack(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 11:38 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Vortex generators
>
>I want to take this opportunity to thank John Jung for re-drawing my VG
>plans & posting them as Bitmap & Jpeg.
>
>>Howard Shackleford
>FS I
>SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS parachute |
John and Group,
The chute on my Firestar II is a BRS 750, soft pack, and is located in
the gap seal. Only the rocket sticks up, and it is straight up. The rigging
is kept sinple this way and the chute is protected and out of the way. I
like it there. It is covered by an aluminum gap seal that has a three sided
opening for deployment, kept closed with velcro. I did have to modify BRS's
installation, because their method reduced headroom and I could not wear a
helmet. If there is an interest in someone else doing what I did, I can
provide pictures and answer questions.
John Jung
SE Wisconsin
Wood, John T. wrote:
>
> I am going to purchase a BRS for my Firestar II. I was wondering which
> style (softpack, canister) chute other firestar pilots purchased. Where
> did you install it? Why did you choose your particular style? Do you
> have any good / bad experience with your choice of chute or
> installation? Any other comments, advise or help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks for you help in advance.
>
> John N670JW
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators |
<< I want to take this opportunity to thank John Jung for re-drawing my VG plans
& posting them as Bitmap & Jpeg. >>
And where would we find this, please?
Charlie
ulflyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS parachute |
John, Charlie and others interested,
One picture is here: http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/GapSeal.html
It will take me a little time to find the other pictures.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>Robert
>I am no expert either but recall that a switch must be
>rated for the DC load planned. Many switches are
>rated for AC (or AC only) and this is not the same. A
>switch rated for 2amps AC is not equal to one rated
>for 2 amps DC.
>As for Radio Sh-- switches, I would check OTHER
>electronic suppliers in your area. RS may be OK for
>home and auto needs but I would NOT use them in an
>airplane.
>Regards
>Ed
Have you seen the piece I did at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf
This discussion surfaces from time to time and a lot
of information is diseminated out of context or mis-quoted.
It's not difficult to find switches that perform quite
nicely in airplanes that have no DC markings on them.
Further, there should be no single switch in an airplane
that has the duty of carrying a critical function . . . i.e.
if the switch craps, we crash. If our systems are failure
tolerant, then the absolute quality of any switch becomes
a matter of maintenancem, cost of ownership and convenience.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( still understand knothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators |
Howard,
the hardest part was painting them the same color as the wing. It took
a lot longer to get some decent flying weather that did not require
"survival skills". Actually I put mine on with "servo tape" from a hobby
shop.(two sided tape) I also felt that the plane was able to turn sharper
without the feeling that it was just going to flop over. I was making some
50 to 60 degree turns that felt quite stable. I do have a active
imagination however and this could be plain old crs too.
Larry
----------
> From: HShack(at)aol.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Vortex generators
> Date: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 9:24 AM
>
>
> In a message dated 5/24/00 1:14:13 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> lcottrel(at)kfalls.net writes:
>
>. It appears that I have decreased my stall by 3 to 4 mph. >>
>
> Way to go, Larry!! Reading posts such as yours makes my efforts
worthwhile.
> I've heard back from two others who's stall speed dropped by 2 & 5 mph.
You
> will probably discover some additional benefits of the VG's, such as
being
> able to turn
> your plane 180 degrees using rudder only and make a reasonably good
landing
> without ever touching the stick [this all takes some careful planning &
> practice, but it can be done].
>
> I want to take this opportunity to thank John Jung for re-drawing my VG
> plans & posting them as Bitmap & Jpeg.
>
>>
> Larry, how long did it take you to fabricate and install your VG's?
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS I
> SC
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators |
In a message dated 5/24/00 10:12:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lcottrel(at)kfalls.net writes:
<< I also felt that the plane was able to turn sharper
without the feeling that it was just going to flop over. I was making some
50 to 60 degree turns that felt quite stable. I do have a active
imagination however and this could be plain old crs too. >>
No, not your imagination; The VG's should help almost everything you ask
your plane to do. In my Firestar, I can pull the throttle back to idle and
and then ease the stick all the way back to the seat-the plane will not drop
the nose but will just "parachute" almost straight down at about 800 feet per
minute [I do have to dance on the rudder pedals some to keep the wings
level]. I regularly make turns with the wing at or near
90 degrees [with plenty of altitude].
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Let me think about this minute, da IGNITION Switch, isn't that about as
critical function as you can get on a single switch Bob, speaking for
single ignition engines. Bob's right there is a lot of bad info.
Could you go home, face the wife and admit to her you busted up the $10K
bird because you used a 59 cent lamp switch. Use a good one for the
ignition switch. Anything that sucks power like the strobes, radio, fuel
pumps, are cases where it may be wise to use a DC rated switch. If you
have a master power switch remember all power going through it, you for
sure need a DC switch here. Drink ice water instead of beer a few nigths
while working on the airplane and you'll save enough money to buy the 2-4
switches it will take.
You should be able to DC switches at a good auto parts store.
There are AC rated switches and DC rated switches, use a good quality DC
switch for powering any thing consumes more than 100-ma if you desire it to
be reliable. Even 100-ma of DC on most AC switches can be pushing things
reducing it's life and reliability. This is a fact.
jerryb
>
>>
>>Robert
>>I am no expert either but recall that a switch must be
>>rated for the DC load planned. Many switches are
>>rated for AC (or AC only) and this is not the same. A
>>switch rated for 2amps AC is not equal to one rated
>>for 2 amps DC.
>>As for Radio Sh-- switches, I would check OTHER
>>electronic suppliers in your area. RS may be OK for
>>home and auto needs but I would NOT use them in an
>>airplane.
>>Regards
>>Ed
>
> Have you seen the piece I did at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf
>
> This discussion surfaces from time to time and a lot
> of information is diseminated out of context or mis-quoted.
> It's not difficult to find switches that perform quite
> nicely in airplanes that have no DC markings on them.
> Further, there should be no single switch in an airplane
> that has the duty of carrying a critical function . . . i.e.
> if the switch craps, we crash. If our systems are failure
> tolerant, then the absolute quality of any switch becomes
> a matter of maintenancem, cost of ownership and convenience.
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( still understand knothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sue" <sue(at)tnkolbaircraft.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators |
> << I also felt that the plane was able to turn sharper
> without the feeling that it was just going to flop over. I was making
some
> 50 to 60 degree turns that felt quite stable.
Larry
----------------------------
> No, not your imagination; The VG's should help almost everything you ask
> your plane to do. In my Firestar, I can pull the throttle back to idle
and
> and then ease the stick all the way back to the seat-the plane will not
drop
> the nose but will just "parachute" almost straight down at about 800 feet
per
> minute [I do have to dance on the rudder pedals some to keep the wings
> level]. I regularly make turns with the wing at or near
> 90 degrees [with plenty of altitude].
>
> Howard Shackleford
-------------------------------
Larry, Howard, and Gang:
Don't want to bust your bubble, but all my Kolbs and Kolbs of other owners,
including factory Kolbs (all models) I have flown, will do the maneuvers you
describe without vortex generators. As big and heavy as my MK III is, she
does those same things. I do not remember what the rate of decent is, but
will try and remember to check it out when I get home.
Weather is starting off a little marginal at Chesnut Knolls Air Foundation
this morning. Still have to call
FSS, but believe I will be able to fly back to hauck's holler this morning.
Was going to give it a try yesterday, but had 20 mph wind out of the SW, my
general heading home. Decided not to push that headwind all day long. Am
glad I didn't. Talked to my son in Montgomery, Alabama, last night. He
would not put his canoe in the water yesterday because of high wind.
By staying over an extra day I was able to do some little things to the
airplane I probably would not take time to do at home. Found a roll (well,
Travis gave me a roll) of book binding tape. Ran a strip of two inch tape
down the hinge line of each entrance door. I believe that alone will stop
90% of the wind and water that gets to me through the cracks.
Randy got the windshield/leading edge fairing laid up. Will take him a few
days to finish it up and paint. Am anxious to see what kind of improvements
this will make to performance. For one thing, I will be able to better seal
between wing and windshield. This will help stop more wind and water.
Usually have to cover up my camera with a sectional to keep the rain off it
when flying in the rain.
I've picked up so many odds and ends while here at the Factory, I may have
trouble loading Miss P'fer. We are looking at about 4 weeks now until time
to fly to Kentucky, then on to Alaska. Everything seems to be falling into
place. I think I will have a much better flight this time than in 1994, and
the '94 flight was a good one. This XC has been good training, but still
have not pinned down my fuel burn, since I have only refueled once from 5
gal cans. I'll top off here this morning, then probably refuel with 100LL
in Rome, Ga. That leg will give me a good readout on fuel burn at 5000 and
85-90 mph.
Take care,
john h
PS Sorry to disappoint you guys when you see Sue's email address and find
out it is me sending the email. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming starter ring gear/pulley options |
>speaking of starter ring gears, why is there 2 types, what are the advantages
>and disadvantages of the 2, i need to know soon as i may purchase an engine
>tommorrow.
>>There are (at least) two ring castings for the lycomming (the casting is
about
>>the size of a dinner plate and dished shaped). The difference is the
casted-in
>>pulley diameter, The other variable in the mix is the steel tooth ring
that is
>>fitted (interference) onto the casting ...one being 144 tooth the other
being
>>122 tooth. It really makes no major difference which your engine has
other than
>>the starter drive gear needs to match your tooth-ed ring. Starters come in 2
>>options 144 & 122 tooth
Early 60's everything 122 teeth. 149 tooth gears came along
later on some engines to get a better cranking ratio.
Current production O-235 and IO-720 have 122 tooth gears
stock. All other engines leave factory with 149 tooth
gears.
Pinion gear on all starters have 9 teeth.
When this info was repeated to the Lycoming rep at OSH last
year, the rep was unaware of the 122 tooth gear on the
larger engine. He went to the parts catalog for the
IO-720 and confirmed Bill's observation.
B&C recommends that every engine be fitted with 122 tooth
ring gear. The tooth engagement is better and the system
runs smoother. Be aware of the fact that either casting
can be fitted with any ring gear . . . the mating diameters
are the same. If you put a 122 tooth gear on a casting
designed for 149 tooth, the gear moves 0.060" too close
to the starter.
>>........ My last post just mentioned a vendor who has a
>>inexpensive pulley for the alternator of slightly larger diameter that
reduces
>>the rpm's of the starter a little ( 10 to 12 % if I recall) no mater what
>>casting you have on your ring gear......
B&C has offered the small pulley on their ND alternators since
day one. IF the rotor is balanced well then the positives
for running the alternator faster outweigh the negatives.
You get better output from the alternator at ground operating
RPMs and better cowl clearances. The exemplary demonstrated
service life of these alternators shows there are no life
issues to be addressed by running the alternator slower.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UV Protection, Interior??? |
> What are you guys doing about UV protection to the interior of the kolb???
> Mike
Mike,
I did nothing. Used untinted polybrush to to the fuselage
on the MK III so the flesh tone stuff would note bleed
thru. In 8 yrs, a lot of that outside, have had no problem
from UV.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Just wanted to remind everyone that here at The Flying C's Planetation we
are
>having a open fly-in on June 17, 2000.
Send me the stuff-I'd like to come if I can keep from flying thru fences
between now and then.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: It's Tuesday Night! Story Time |
>Tuesdays Story Hour
>
>Since this is a bit long, Im making it a two-part story, with the
>second part Friday night. If you gentle readers dont like a truncated
>story, please tell me--and I wont do anymore cutting. May have to have
>a long one once in a while. Ok, settle down, and listen:
>
>Eyes Toward the Skies
>
>The bleak Nebraska plain had few interruptions to the monotonous sight
>of prairie meeting endless sky. A lonely cottonwood tree breached the
>near horizon, keeping company with the barn and other outbuildings.
>Otherwise nothing. Robbie's father said he could see fifteen miles
>sitting in the saddle, ten more of the same standing in the stirrups.
did i miss part two or is it still coming?
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Dear John, :-)
Perhaps I didn;t read your message Poo Pooing (yea verily) the positive
effects of VG's correctly, but if It did mean to say what I thought it
meant to say. Then I disagree. While I have tremendous respect for your
knowledge of Kolb aircraft, and I have learned to be cautious of my fading
memory. I have to go with my "butt" feeling. The plane just feels better
and is more stable in all aspects of flying. The reduction in stall speed
is for sure, and it is easier to land. While I am aware of the minds
ability to delude, (there was this girl once-----) the automatic muscle
response cannot be fooled and my muscles were really happy with the change.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Dear John, :-)
> Perhaps I didn;t read your message Poo Pooing (yea verily) the positive
> effects of VG's correctly, but if It did mean to say what I thought it
> meant to say. Then I disagree.
> Larry
Mornin Larry and Gang:
Now I dun got me a "dear john" letter. :-)
If VG's reduce stall speed, that is great!!! However, what
you describe as improvements in the maneuvering of your Kolb
was there before you installed VG's, i.e., climbing 40-45
mph and stalling at the same time with the stick all the way
back to the stop, extremely tight/steep turns, and again
mushing with the stick all the way aft to the stop. Maybe
the VG's improve these maneuvers, but they can safely be
performed without VG's. These three maneuvers were part of
my MK III demonstration at Sun & Fun and Oshkosh if I felt
the passenger was interested in the true performance of the
aircraft.
As for improved landing performance, I don't know. To me
best landings are full stall landings in the three point
position. If you land on the mains only, a little too hard,
and don't compensate with forward stick, the tail will drop
and the airplane will balloon. Then ya gotta add power and
land a little further down the strip or go around.
Did not mean to "poo poo" your VG's and I don't think I
"burst your bubble." I am sorry if it came across the wrong
way. My point was that Kolbs will do all the maneuvers you
describe without VG's. With VG's maybe they will do them
better.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | MK III Flight From London, Ky |
Morning Gang:
Had a good flight from Kolb Factory to Gant Int AP, Al.
Pushed a head wind most of the way, which is psychologically
defeating, but the beautiful Ky, Tn, and Al mountains made
up for it.
The 912S now has 20.2 hours, stills performs great, and is
burning aprx 4.5 gph at 5000 rpm at 88 mph IAS. I topped
off the tank before I left London and again at Rome, Ga.
Used 12 gal even. I believe the fuel burn will come down a
tad after about 100 hours on the eng, after it gets run in
good. We started off on Mobil I 100% Synthetic at 0.0 hours
rather than 25 hours on mineral oil. May take longer to get
the engine loosened up. Anyhow, will be on my way to Barrow
when the hour meter sees 100 hours. Only problem with the
912S, so far, is a weeping fuel pump. It is leaking oil
from the bottom two weep holes. The only way to correct
this is replacement with a new one. However, it has not
leaked enough to be noticeable on the dip stick.
When I departed Rome, it was so hot in the cockpit I climbed
to 8000 feet to cool off. The headwind was much worse at
8000, but before I decended back into the heat, turbulence,
and lighter headwind, I climbed on up to 10,000 feet. The
912S cranked out 5200 rpm WOT all the way. Never wavered
off 5200. Miss P'fer was still climbing 500 fpm when I
reached 10,000. While I was up there in the 50F thin air, I
experimented at all power settings, but the 912S ran
smoothly from full power down to 1500 rpm idle. Was very
happy to see this performance. Hopefully, when I get into
cold country I will not experience the same "lean" problems
with this eng that I did with the 912 in 1994.
This 12 gals of 100LL was the first avn fuel to go in the
tank for the 912S. Could not tell the difference in
performance from mo gas. However, it was mixed about 50/50.
I am hoping the new wing leading edge/windshield fairing
will give Miss P'fer a couple mph increase in cruise. I am
looking for a good solid 90 mph at 5000 rpm. If I can get
this, I will be saving 1000 miles in 100 hours of flight
time over the old 912. Right now I am saving 500 to 800
miles in 100 hours. That could mean two days of flying
saved during the flight.
The book binding tape I installed on the door hinge lines
has stopped all the air and rain leaks in that area. I am
going to install two more pop vents in the doors to make up
for the ventilation I was getting from the air leaks. I got
hot at 3000 feet yesterday with both vents wide open. That
is a first, except for flying in the desert SW in the
summer.
I contacted Rome UNICOM exactly 25 sm from the field. They
received me loud and clear. I received them the same. That
really made me feel good. I have to thank Sigtronics for
that great improvement.
BTW: If any of you all are interested in having one of the
Barrow Flight Patches that makes the entire flight with me
from Alabama and back to Alabama, let me know and I will put
them on board the aircraft for the flight. Every little bit
helps. For those of you that already have a patch and want
one that makes the flight, send me the old one and I will
send you a "travel weary" one. Or sumthin like that. We
can work it out.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | UV through plastic? |
>What are you guys doing about UV protection to the interior
>of the kolb???
>through the lexan etc. some of the interior of the plane is
>subject to sunlight???
I am pretty sure that lexan polycarb already blocks 80-90 % of UV. When
you buy eyeware, they will sell you coatings that add UV protection for
your eyes. But be aware that the plastic lenses alone are stopping 80-90
%, and the coating that probly costs you $20 adds another 5-8 %.
When you buy hi-tech windows for your house, if you get "energy wall" type
window glass with UV-block ratings, you will see that to accomplish this
they stretch a thin sheet of "plastic" of some kind inside the thermopane
unit.
Maybe one of the scientists on our list would care to expand/correct me???
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | LTUG Airline Tickets |
OK SO I SCREWED UP! The airline tickets are from Americian Trans Air.
See their website at http://www.ata.com
Sam Cox
LAKE TEXOMA ULTRALIGHT GATHERING 2000
June 8 - 11th Gordonville, Texas
http://www.dfwliteflyers.org
Could you use a pair of free round trip airline tickets to any place in the
continental US that is served by Alantic Trans Airways? One lucky UL pilot
and one lucky LTUG volunteer will each leave Lake Texoma this year with just
that. It could be you! Each ultralight type vehicle/airplane that is
registered (free) and flown at the fly-in will earn it's pilot entry into
the pilot's drawing. People who volunteer to help at the fly-in will be
given one drawing ticket for each hour they serve in volunteer status toward
the volunteer's drawing. NO TICKETS FOR THE DRAWINGS WILL BE SOLD.
These tickets will go to one pilot and one volunteer. Your chances to be a
winner are good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
| Subject: | Tuesday nite story, delayed 'til Friday |
Since I have no basis for trying Miz Arty in absentia, with or without
using any rope, I've waited til now for another Story Time. This one has
nothing to do with flying and politics, and only a little with religion
and guns. I wrote this for the editorial page of our local *Astonisher &
Daily Blatt.*
Decoration Day
Now comes another Federally-mandated holiday, dedicated to the merchants
of America. This holiday, conveniently hooked on to a weekend, allows us
extra time off from our jobs so that we may celebrate The Memorial Day
Sale, as well as get in a little extra time behind the wheelsomething
we do all week anyway!
A glance at the calendar shows two Memorial Daysone observed, the
other just plain old Memorial Day. Can any of us remember when there was
just one such day, and what was memorialized then?
For many years May 30th was set aside to honor the memories of fallen
servicemen in all the wars. Many of the Southern states have a different
day, however the observance is the same. Perhaps it was a Virginia
woman, Cassandra Oliver Moncure, a distant relative of mine, who during
the War between the States first dedicated this day to the dead.
In my family, and no doubt in many others, May 30th was called
Decoration Day. On this day we went to the country cemeteries where our
ancestors were buried and clipped the new grass around the headstones,
taking care to weed the just-blooming peonies, and placing fresh-cut
flowers from our own gardens in jars on the plots. My grandmothers
always knew which graves might not be tended for lack of living
relatives, and so brought flowers for these plots, tending them as well.
And I remember the very small parades in these tiny country towns.The
entire Boy Scout troop of seven, including what appeared to be the
smallest scout, carrying The Colors with forty-eight stars. A somewhat
off-tune but determined Town Band wheezing out The Stars And Stripes
Forever. Only a couple of very old Civil War veterans, riding in an open
car, leading a few more from the Spanish-American War. And maybe a dozen
from the World War (The War to End All Wars).
Most of the veterans still had a piece or two of their old uniforms, and
all had a few medals. Some of the World War doughboys had their odd
flat brimmed tin hats and tightly wound puttees, but all who marched
did so in spite of age and pain. Each may have thought it might be their
last time to follow The Flag.
At Old Town Cemetery all the old vets stood at attention, with the
younger men at each side of the Civil War soldiers. The several widows,
all in black, dotted the crowd of a couple of dozen, standing near a few
graves.Three volleys were fired from two old hunting rifles. The
preacher gave a long prayer, the Decoration Day ceremonies were over.
Later we entertained old friends with real home cranked ice cream and
chocolate cake while bringing back the memories of past times and the
people in them. Perhaps it was Memorial Day after all.
Reprinted from The Winchester (VA) Star, Memorial Day, 1997
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
> Did not mean to "poo poo" your VG's and I don't think I
> "burst your bubble." I am sorry if it came across the wrong
> way. My point was that Kolbs will do all the maneuvers you
> describe without VG's. With VG's maybe they will do them
> better.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
Dear John or Sue, ( which ever alias you are using today)
You didn't do any of the above, I just figured it was plain ole
loyalty.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tuesday nite story, delayed 'til Friday |
> nothing to do with flying and politics, and only a little with
> religion
> and guns. I wrote this for the editorial page of our local
> *Astonisher &
> Daily Blatt.*
So therefore it is something you should NOT print here! And no, I
didn't read beyond the above splat.
-Ben Ransom
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | FW: BRS parachute |
I am going to purchase a BRS for my Firestar II. I was wondering which
style (softpack, canister) chute other firestar pilots purchased. Where
did you install it? Why did you choose your particular style? Do you
have any good / bad experience with your choice of chute or
installation? Any other comments, advise or help would be
appreciated.
Thanks for you help in advance.
John N670JW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Can't get the control stick in the vertical positon |
Greetings
We installed the aileron control fitting to the base of the control stick but
when the aileron bell crank is in the horizontal position (see photo1) the
control stick is tilted to the left (see photo2). We tried rotating the
aileron torque tube. We even took the stick out and compared it to Dave
Rains FireStar and it looked the same.
Has anyone run into this problem, if so how did you correct it?
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo1.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo2.jpg
Regards,
Will Uribe
building a FireStar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get the control stick in the vertical positon |
Will,
My Firestar II is not near that I can check for you, but my question is: "Do
you need to correct it?" I suggest that the real test is to adjust the pushrods
to make up the difference and then see if you have full control. If you do then
there is no problem that needs to be fixed.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Greetings
> We installed the aileron control fitting to the base of the control stick but
> when the aileron bell crank is in the horizontal position (see photo1) the
> control stick is tilted to the left (see photo2). We tried rotating the
> aileron torque tube. We even took the stick out and compared it to Dave
> Rains FireStar and it looked the same.
> Has anyone run into this problem, if so how did you correct it?
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo1.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo2.jpg
> Regards,
> Will Uribe
> building a FireStar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get the control stick in the vertical positon |
We did try the push rod adjustment and we did not have full aileron
deflection. One good suggestion was to cut the aileron torque tube and
realign.
In a message dated 5/28/00 11:09:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrjung(at)execpc.com writes:
>
> Will,
>
> My Firestar II is not near that I can check for you, but my question
is:
> "Do
> you need to correct it?" I suggest that the real test is to adjust the
> pushrods
> to make up the difference and then see if you have full control. If you do
> then
> there is no problem that needs to be fixed.
>
> John Jung
> Firestar II N6163J
> SE Wisconsin
>
> WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Greetings
> > We installed the aileron control fitting to the base of the control
stick
> but
> > when the aileron bell crank is in the horizontal position (see photo1)
the
> > control stick is tilted to the left (see photo2). We tried rotating the
> > aileron torque tube. We even took the stick out and compared it to Dave
> > Rains FireStar and it looked the same.
> > Has anyone run into this problem, if so how did you correct it?
> > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo1.jpg
> > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo2.jpg
> > Regards,
> > Will Uribe
> > building a FireStar II
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FW: BRS parachute |
John,
I order the BRS softpack on Thursday. BRS said they have a special bag for
the FireStar that will fit in the wing gap. With the softpack I don't have
to send it to BRS for repacking, I can take it to a local rigger (save on
shipping cost). I live in the desert southwest so I don't have to worry
about getting it wet.
And the number one reason I got the softpack, it cost less.
Will Uribe
building a FireStar II
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
In a message dated 5/27/00 2:53:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil writes:
> I am going to purchase a BRS for my Firestar II. I was wondering which
> style (softpack, canister) chute other firestar pilots purchased. Where
> did you install it? Why did you choose your particular style? Do you
> have any good / bad experience with your choice of chute or
> installation? Any other comments, advise or help would be
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks for you help in advance.
>
> John N670JW
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWilliJill(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get the control stick in the vertical positon |
Will
I just went outside and looked at the attachment point for the control
stick that
is welded under the front lip of the front seat. Mine is welded offset to the
left of the
centerline of the seat. The weldment measures 7" from right to left and 5.5"
from left to right. This in itself is going to make my stick several inches
to the left
of the seated position between my legs I guess that is done for clearance of
the
torque tube from some respective part of the cage, but you are saying that
the center part of your stick is tilted to the left from the vertical with
ailerons in neutral position? You might want to check the bottom weldment on
the stick itself and make sure its not welded 180 degrees out. The bottom of
my stick starts off to the right of vertical then the center section tilts
left of vertical and finally the top tilts forward toward the nose. Will,
I'm not trying to tell you anything about the stick you can't see yourself
but making sure yours is welded like mine. Thanks for posting any problems
you might encounter
during the building process because it helps guys like me who aren't as far
along.
I would also like to tell all the current owners of Kolbs and future builders
that
I think that The New Kolb Aircraft Company has a great staff that will bend
over
backwards to resolve any problems you might have with kit materials or what
ever. I can truly say I was treated very fairly and a step beyond on a minor
boom tube glich. Thanks again Norm if you get to read this and I can also
say that Sue gets an A+ for a "bubbly" personally in person as well as over
the
phone and thanks to the kind lady for the raspberry muffin.
Ron W
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators Attn: John Hauck |
In a message dated 5/28/00 6:21:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< BTW: Would be glad to demonstrate all those maneuvers with
you on board in my airplane. :-) >>
Oh, Boy!! Would I love to have those maneauvers demonstrated with me on
board!!
But John, [I can't help it...] I'm willing to bet they'd all be just a teeny
bit better with the VG's installed. And you just might burn 40 or 50
gallons less gas between Hauck's Holler and Barrow.
Respectfully,
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert F. Bean" <rfbean(at)rochester.infi.net> |
Hello all, much as I admire the Kolb (and this may be considered heresy)
but has
anyone seen plans available for a similar type a/c......that is tube
spars,tail, pusher,
taildragger? I suspect there were some for the ultra once, but I think
the firefly
is about as close to my ideal as I've seen. Obviously I could go
measure up some-
one else's project but I'm just shopping for alternative possibilities.
thanx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get the control stick in the vertical positon |
WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Greetings
> We installed the aileron control fitting to the base of the control stick but
> when the aileron bell crank is in the horizontal position (see photo1) the
> control stick is tilted to the left (see photo2).
Will,
For what it's worth. I had a similar problem with my FireFly. To correct
the problem by adjusting the push rods caused the ball fitting on one rod
to be too far out on the threads for comfort or safety. I took my control
stick back up to Phoenixville, home of the original Kolb, and had Bill cut
and reposition the stick before welding it again. Took two tries to get it
right, but worth it. Now my stick is centered with the push rod
adjustments almost equal. I think the problem was in the alignment of the
torque tube end fittings that are part of the tube that is welded into the
cage.
Anyway that worked for me. What do I know, just a beginner.
Terry K.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Hi Gang,
I posted a message a week or so ago and got one response. I'm not
complaining so don't get the wrong idea. I know there has been some
discussion lately about what covering system to use and I just want any new
comers to know what kind of service Jim and Dondi Miller provide. The one
response I got was from Jim Miller. I don't know of a very many companies
that would actually contact you to help you out. Please read the following
post and the response that I got. Pass the MEK please.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Epoxy primer
Hi Gang,
Does anyone have any white epoxy primer (poly fiber brand) that they
wouldn't mind getting rid of for a reasonable price or swap for the green
epoxy primer? I bought the green primer and later decided that the white
would work better under the yellow paint that I plan on using. Please
contact me off list or my phone number is (601) 947-6789.
Thanks,
John Cooley
Building FS 1162
Hi, John,
We left a message on your answering machine,
Give us a call, we'll send you a quart of white epoxy primer base, &
instructions for you to return the green in the same box.
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get the control stick in the vertical positon |
Hi Will and Gang,
I checked my FS II after looking at your pictures and my control stick
leans to the left also. I don't believe it's is as far out as yours though.
It shows about 3 1/2 degrees left tilt at the control stick handle using my
Smart Tool level.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
> We installed the aileron control fitting to the base of the control stick
but
> when the aileron bell crank is in the horizontal position (see photo1) the
> control stick is tilted to the left (see photo2).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd McFarlane <lrmcf(at)ix.netcom.com> |
rom: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Can't get the control stick in the vertical position
Greetings
We installed the aileron control fitting to the base of the control
stick but
when the aileron bell crank is in the horizontal position (see photo1)
the
control stick is tilted to the left (see photo2). We
Will,
Check out the 3 components that control the crank. Mine are as
follows: the holes in the U at the opposite end of the torque tube are
90 deg to the horizontal centerline of the crank. On the torque tube
extension the holes in the U are at 90 deg to the sleeve on the opposite
end. The control stick is perpendicular to the mounting holes. From
this hopefully you can determine which piece is off.
What is your distance from the top of the crank to the bottom of the
fuselage tube. I had to to lower my tube 9/16" instead of called for
7/16 to get the bolt through the center of the tube. This puts the
torque tube closer to the fuselage tube an limits the rotation of the
crank. I can get only about 23 deg up and down, which gives me about 5"
aileron travel up and down. Is the 7.5" travel as called out in the
manual required for proper flying?
I certainly enjoy and reference your home page. Keep up the good work!
Lloyd McFarlane
Fullerton, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sender: owner-kolb-list-server |
Hello, Doug
I have a Twinstar Mk II in similar shape that would go in the $5-6K
range. I likewise am very impressed with all Kolb products, but keep in
mind the factory does not support older (not current production) aircraft
like mine. Nonetheless, I will be restoring this one soon. If you do get
the Mk II, I am badly in need of a replacement nosecone and would like to
make a plug from anyone's that may be removed and available.
Ed C.
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "DOUG & KIMBERLY SMITH" <o2cool(at)usit.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2000 1:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Sender: owner-kolb-list-server
>
>
> Hello all, Just joined the list in hopes of talking to some people with
> helpfull info. I've been shopping for a used 2-place U/L type
experimental
> and have heard good things about Kolb.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Hi all.
I made a scary realization yesterday on my MK III. I was doing a preflight,
getting ready to take my son's girlfriends mother for a ride, when I notice
some unpainted metal showing on the rear drag strut fitting where it
attaches to the wing. My son grabbed the end of the wing and pushed back
and the rear drag strut slid into the wing. He pushed forward on the wing
and the drag strut slid out. Next we tried the same thing on the other
wing. Same thing. The drag strut would slide in and out of the wing.
Needless to say I didn't go flying. Instead, I went home and took a look at
the blue prints and figured that the bolt that holds the drag strut in was
never installed. I took the wings off today, cut the fabric in the end of
the wing and sure enough. I have 180+ hours on this thing with two bolts
missing. This was a quick build kit built by the Old Kolb Co. In fact my
quick build kit was on display at Sun-and-Fun in 97. I remember checking
the wings before I covered them, noticing the rivets in the drag strut
assuming that is what held everything together. I must have missed the two
bolts and the powder coating must have held things together during assembly,
during painting and during many wing foldings in the first couple of months.
I guess the powder coating finally let go. Also, since the quick build kits
are factory rigged I never dreamed that any wing attachment point could be
left unfinished. I remember Dennis Souder telling me to make sure the big
bolt through the main spar was installed. He told me of a fellow that flew
for a little while without the bolt and only a few pop rivets. Fortunately
for me, the wings never moved far enough forward for the strut fittings to
come completely out, and maybe the wings can't move that far forward. I'm
glad I didn't find out. I know this seems pretty ignorant on my part but
you may want to check your plane on your next pre flight.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vendor48(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Non-Kolb related posts |
In a message dated 29-May-00 2:05:24 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< > I have grown a little weary of some of the personal and wide wondering
> posts to the Kolb list >>
Hi Group,
Just a (another) non-Kolb related post. One man's opinion...While I have
found some interesting and helpful posts on here, I have also found a long
list of posts which are in direct conflict with Matronic's suggested
guidelines. I canceled my real-time subscription due to the large amount of
"chat room type" comments/conversation. Examples: LENGTHY dialogues re
helmets, cross wind landings, detailed first flights, whether or not to UV
proof a cockpit.....and story time!? While I am sure the group is composed
of "good people", I personally would much rather wade through less ..... to
find usable Kolb information. While I consider wearing a helmet a very
simple yes/no kind of thing, and cross wind landings....well don't fly beyond
your current comfort level/proficency but by small increments. But, I don't
fault those who would prefer to talk about all of the above in GREAT (and
exhaustive) detail. I just don't think that general hangar talk is best
served on this site, nor is the desired Kolb info truly available, but amidst
LOTS of "filler". Ever notice the number of posts where someone cannot find
a reference??? I know I'd hate to have to find something specific looking at
the size of the file! Certainly don't mean to piss anyone off here, just my
comments, Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyColt45(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | MK III Parts For Sale |
I have some major parts of my MKIII (parting out) that may get you into the
air cheaply. My MK was a show piece (before a hard landing). Parts
available: Both wings (1 bowed). Wing kit & new spar to replace the bent
one; boom and all tail assembly intact (including tail wheel); control
cables attached to stick new wheels, tires and brakes; both wing
struts and 2 new landing gear; 3 blade warp drive prop (tips scraped);
control stick, center wing gap area (lexan damaged, but frame is good) and
other misc. parts. Basically besides fixing the wing, a cage, pod & engine
are needed.
Best offer on all.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get the control stick in the vertical position |
Greetings,
After setting the control stick to the vertical position (see photo3) I
adjusting the push rods (see photo4) to move the ailerons to the neutral
position. after the adjustment I pushing the control stick to the left, the
right aileron gave me a 5.00" down deflection and the left one gave me a
9.38" up deflection. When I moved the control stick to the right, the right
aileron gave me a 5.38" up deflection and the left one gave me a 3.63" down
deflection. The builder's manual calls for a 7.25" up and down deflection,
as you can see this is not acceptable.
I don't have access to a welder so I'm going to cut the torque tube, align
the control stick to the aileron bell crank, then put a sleeve on the torque
tube and rivet it in place. This was done by someone on the list and has
worked with no problems for a year and a half of flying.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo3.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo4.jpg
I got some good advice from the list and I thank you.
Will Uribe
building a FireStar II
El Paso, TX
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Waligroski, Greg" <gwaligro(at)ball.com> |
Well this past Saturday I took a shot at using the vortex generators that
Howard Shackleford sent me the information on (thanks again Howard). Any
way the preliminary results were that there was some improvement in stall
speed (i.e slower). Unfortunately air conditions (kinda bumpy, late day
thermals) and technical difficulties (gotta use better tape) limited my
ability to get precise data. What I could tell was that my angle of attack
seemed a wee bit higher before the stall break power off and the stall speed
indicated went from about 35 mph to 33mph. Power on I wasn't able to get a
break just the full stick back mush. I didn't see any change in normal
cruise speed. No significant change in climb performance although air
conditions made that difficult to judge unless it would have been huge.
Handling seemed about the same. On landing it did seem to float less but I
am not sure that would necessarily be a characteristic of the VG's (I
typically do 3 pointers with light winds and little cross). After a few
touch and goes I finally landed and took a look on top of the wing and
noticed I had shed a couple of the VG's (oops, glad I didn't put them on the
wing inside of the prop arc), not sure what point in the tests this
happened. I intend to repeat the experiments in smoother air and with a
better indication of angle of attack and better tape. Also need to dig up
my notes from school where I actually did some wind tunnel work on VG's
although it was related to delta wing configurations but maybe a few nuggets
there. Will report when I do a better test unless folks think I am loading
up the bandwidth...
Gregg Waligroski
Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Identify a part left over |
Greetings.
I have a tube thats 11" long X 5/8 dia. with a welded tab 8" from the end
(see photo 5). At first I thought it was used to hole the springs for the
rudder pedals (see photo 6) but the plans calls for the use of a 8 3/4" long
X 3/8 dia. alum tube (see photo 7).
Can anyone identify this part? I looked through all the plans and I didn't
find any mention of it.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo5.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo6.jpg
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo7.jpg
Thanks
Will Uribe
building a FireStar II
El Paso, TX
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Identify a part left over |
Hi Will: That's the tube that goes thru the rear of the fuselage tube,
under the front of the vertical stabilizer. The wing fold sockets fit onto
it when transporting. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2000 11:19 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Identify a part left over
>
> Greetings.
> I have a tube thats 11" long X 5/8 dia. with a welded tab 8" from the end
> (see photo 5). At first I thought it was used to hole the springs for the
> rudder pedals (see photo 6) but the plans calls for the use of a 8 3/4"
long
> X 3/8 dia. alum tube (see photo 7).
> Can anyone identify this part? I looked through all the plans and I
didn't
> find any mention of it.
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo5.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo6.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo7.jpg
>
> Thanks
> Will Uribe
> building a FireStar II
> El Paso, TX
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorence Peters" <LorencePeters(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Identify a part left over |
-----Original Message-----
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, May 29, 2000 11:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Identify a part left over
>
>Greetings.
>I have a tube thats 11" long X 5/8 dia. with a welded tab 8" from the end
>(see photo 5). At first I thought it was used to hole the springs for the
>rudder pedals (see photo 6) but the plans calls for the use of a 8 3/4"
long
>X 3/8 dia. alum tube (see photo 7).
>Can anyone identify this part? I looked through all the plans and I didn't
>find any mention of it.
>http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo5.jpg
>http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo6.jpg
>http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo7.jpg
>
>Thanks
>Will Uribe
>building a FireStar II
>El Paso, TX
>http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
Will,
Building a Mark III, but part looks more or less the same. It's inserted
throught the rear of the tail boom and riveted throught the small tab; mates
with the wing fold brackets and holds the wings in place once they are
folded back.
Regards
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WingManBill2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Identify a part left over |
In a message dated 5/30/00 2:34:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
WillUribe(at)aol.com writes:
<< http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo5.jpg >>
That part is the tube that is installed through the main fuselage tube to
enable you to connect the other wing fold pieces. You have two wing fold
brackets that mount under the outboard portion of each wing, as the wings are
folded, they slide into this un-identified tube in question, there's a
picture in the plans, hope this helps!
Bill J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johann G Johannsson <johann-g(at)tal.is> |
| Subject: | Re: Identify a part left over |
Hi Will
This tube is used for your wing folding. You will need to drill a hole through
your tail boom tube below the horizontal stabilizer, or where the wing folding
brackets are positioned on your wings. You need to install a small pensil into
the tubes on the wing bottom and mark the position for this tube.
The tube will then we inserted through the tail boom and riveted with two rivets
to the tail boom. This is the reason for the welded small plate on the tube.
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
Johann G
Iceland.
WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Greetings.
> I have a tube thats 11" long X 5/8 dia. with a welded tab 8" from the end
> (see photo 5). At first I thought it was used to hole the springs for the
> rudder pedals (see photo 6) but the plans calls for the use of a 8 3/4" long
> X 3/8 dia. alum tube (see photo 7).
> Can anyone identify this part? I looked through all the plans and I didn't
> find any mention of it.
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo5.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo6.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo7.jpg
>
> Thanks
> Will Uribe
> building a FireStar II
> El Paso, TX
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Identify a part left over |
Hi Will and Gang,
It is the wing fold tube as several have described already. I bought a
new set of plans when I purchased my kit because the old ones got wet. It is
a 1994 model plane but the plans were purchased in Nov. 1999. The revision
date on the plans is 8-96. I have 30 pages in the plans and the wing fold
tube is on page 5.
Use the pencil as Johann described but be sure you have the motor or
similar weight on the cage as it will flex the boom tube and effect how the
parts line up. Also the plans say to locate the center line of the wing fold
tube where it just clears the tube on the horizontal stabilizer with the
stabilizer down (flying position) and finally to drill the holes using
successively larger drill bits to 5/8".
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2000 1:19 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Identify a part left over
>
> Greetings.
> I have a tube thats 11" long X 5/8 dia. with a welded tab 8" from the end
> (see photo 5
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Non-Kolb related posts |
Group,
Here are my thoughts on this subject. Lately, I have noticed that the level
of activity on the list has been lower than normal. So I wouldn't want to
discourage participation at this time. I haven't noticed what I would call "wide
wondering".
John Jung
SE Wisconsin
Firestar II N6163J
3 year list member
Firestar web page http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Firestar.html
Vendor48(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 29-May-00 2:05:24 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> << > I have grown a little weary of some of the personal and wide wondering
> > posts to the Kolb list >>
snip...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: drag strut bolt |
In a message dated 00-05-29 10:26:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net writes:
<< My son grabbed the end of the wing and pushed back
and the rear drag strut slid into the wing. He pushed forward on the wing
and the drag strut slid out. Next we tried the same thing on the other
wing. Same thing. The drag strut would slide in and out of the wing.
Needless to say I didn't go flying. >>
Terry:
You are a lucky guy. The last guy who did something like that is dead.
This is a little bit of old time Kolb lore, but back in the 80's a second
time Kolb builder forgot to put the big bolts through the wing tangs and the
spar. All that held the tangs to the spars was the 4 or 5 rivets that are
only there to prevent the tang from rotating on the bolt. The rivets held
things together for his taxi testing. He got a couple of hundred feet in the
air before the wings folded straight up.
In the quick build kit the drag strut fitting was left unfinished because
you might need to adjust it to get the leading edges in a straight line.
Good thing you didn't try to fly backwards or you would have been in for a
tough time.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drag strut bolt |
Terry wrote:
>
>
> Hi all.
>
> I made a scary realization yesterday on my MK III. I was doing a preflight,
Hello Terry,
God was very good to you!
Eugene Zimmerman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Non-Kolb related posts |
I am on your side Jerry.
Some individuals just can not follow the guidelines laid out by Matronic's.
This topic seems to go around every several months
with Matt asking everyone to get back on Kolb information but to no avail
as the crap just keeps on coming.
Thanks for your opinion Jerry, you hit the nail right on its head.
Kim Steiner (Mark 111 with just over 300 hours on it)
> Just a (another) non-Kolb related post. One man's opinion...While I have
> found some interesting and helpful posts on here, I have also found a long
> list of posts which are in direct conflict with Matronic's suggested
> guidelines. I canceled my real-time subscription due to the large amount
of
> "chat room type" comments/conversation. Examples: LENGTHY dialogues re
> helmets, cross wind landings, detailed first flights, whether or not to UV
> proof a cockpit.....and story time!? While I am sure the group is
composed
> of "good people", I personally would much rather wade through less .....
to
> find usable Kolb information. While I consider wearing a helmet a very
> simple yes/no kind of thing, and cross wind landings....well don't fly
beyond
> your current comfort level/proficency but by small increments. But, I
don't
> fault those who would prefer to talk about all of the above in GREAT (and
> exhaustive) detail. I just don't think that general hangar talk is best
> served on this site, nor is the desired Kolb info truly available, but
amidst
> LOTS of "filler". Ever notice the number of posts where someone cannot
find
> a reference??? I know I'd hate to have to find something specific looking
at
> the size of the file! Certainly don't mean to piss anyone off here, just
my
> comments, Jerry
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Motor Mount Plates |
Richard, Could you make the mount plate if you had the dimentions? Also, you
stated plates,plural.Do you require on your model more than is needed on my
FS2? G. Aman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyColt45(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: MK III Parts For Sale |
The plane is not on the landing gear so it will be easier to move. (I cut
the cage away when I thought that I would get another.) I'm located just
west of Valley Forge, PA. (10 mins off of Rt. 422 which runs off of 202, the
PA Turnpike and the Schuylkill Expressway 76). I travel also but if
interested, the plane can be seen from the 15th though the 18th of June. I
have to get $2000. for everything.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Non-Kolb related posts |
There is nothing wrong with this list...it's just great so quit jawboning
about it unless you want to tear it apart like an english composition
course....which of course it is NOT!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> |
>
>
>anyone seen plans available for a similar type a/c......that is tube
>spars,tail, pusher,
>taildragger?
There may be some old Ultrastar plans around from when they first were
built. Perhaps you could advertise to find them.
Woody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
Hey Gang,
I am in the design stage of a hangar for my Kolb play toy and need some
collective wisdom...(Is KOLB hangars to far off topic for this
list???...Sorry couldn't resist)
Without going into a lengthy unnecessary explanation I have the material to
build a hanger 26' wide X upwards of around 50' long fairly inexpensively.
BUT the problem is the door width will be 25'! Obviously the Kolb Mark 3
(Knew I should have built a 22' wingspan Slingshot) has a wingspan of right
at 30' and will not fit. My question is this...to get the door opening wide
enough I have to put it in the 50' side of the building which will require a
35' +/- steel beam to the tune of $1000 or so for all associated framing or
do something like this...
http://freespace.virgin.net/shadow.owners/trolley.htm
A trolley or similar mechanism would be very cheap to make just take some of
that time that I already don't have and would mean some sort of extra step
besides open door, roll out plane. The door would be nice but more
expensive.
Question 1. All things being equal (Once plane is actually in the hangar)
is 26' enough to get around the ends of the plan comfortably? In other
words ... "How big are your hangars , and how much bigger would you like/or
smaller could you get away with???"
Question 2. Would a $1000 beam/columns , etc. for a 35' door be worth the
aggravation of not having to fool with some kind of trolley to wheel the
plane in sideways with??? Opinion here as I know money is more value to
some than to others...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb hangar
Hi, Jeremy
Don't know if this will help, but we routinely hangar planes that
"won't fit" by pivoting them through the door at an angle, i.e. with the
door open, taxi up or park with the nose next to and just inside the door
opening, then pivot the tail around with the nose/wing root stationary (this
is one of those processes that is easier to see than describe). IMHO, your
25' door should be plenty big, but the "wiggling" may grow aggravating, and
may increase the chances of hangar rash. I've seen many taildragger folks
use a small dolly under the tailwheel for this purpose - makes for tight
turns, etc. Hope this helps you avoid unneeded expense, and allocate funds
for more worthwhile purposes (GPS, beer ...).
Ed C.
Twinstar in JXN
> Hey Gang,
>
> I am in the design stage of a hangar for my Kolb play toy and need some
> collective wisdom...(Is KOLB hangars to far off topic for this
> list???...Sorry couldn't resist)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Motor Mount Plates |
Hello,
Thanks for your response. I finially got the dimensions & am reproducing
one now. I mentioned plates plural because most models used 2 rectangular
plates instead of the single X shaped plate. Either one will work, though the
X
is better & that is what I am making. Your kindness & concern is appreciated.
...Richard S
ZepRep251(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Richard, Could you make the mount plate if you had the dimentions? Also, you
> stated plates,plural.Do you require on your model more than is needed on my
> FS2? G. Aman
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
Jeremy, I crab my firestar II through a 20 ft door! It isn't necessary to
have a door larger than the wing span. Just a thought,
Dave Rains
(skeeter)
El Paso.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 3:39 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb hangar
>
>Hey Gang,
>
>I am in the design stage of a hangar for my Kolb play toy and need some
>collective wisdom...(Is KOLB hangars to far off topic for this
>list???...Sorry couldn't resist)
>
>Without going into a lengthy unnecessary explanation I have the material to
>build a hanger 26' wide X upwards of around 50' long fairly inexpensively.
>BUT the problem is the door width will be 25'! Obviously the Kolb Mark 3
>(Knew I should have built a 22' wingspan Slingshot) has a wingspan of
right
>at 30' and will not fit. My question is this...to get the door opening
wide
>enough I have to put it in the 50' side of the building which will require
a
>35' +/- steel beam to the tune of $1000 or so for all associated framing or
>do something like this...
>
>http://freespace.virgin.net/shadow.owners/trolley.htm
>
>A trolley or similar mechanism would be very cheap to make just take some
of
>that time that I already don't have and would mean some sort of extra step
>besides open door, roll out plane. The door would be nice but more
>expensive.
>
>Question 1. All things being equal (Once plane is actually in the hangar)
>is 26' enough to get around the ends of the plan comfortably? In other
>words ... "How big are your hangars , and how much bigger would you like/or
>smaller could you get away with???"
>
>Question 2. Would a $1000 beam/columns , etc. for a 35' door be worth the
>aggravation of not having to fool with some kind of trolley to wheel the
>plane in sideways with??? Opinion here as I know money is more value to
>some than to others...
>
>Jeremy Casey
>jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monday's Flight |
Hey guys,
I just wanted to tell you about a flight I made with two other firestars on
monday.
Since I am a low time pilot it seems everything I do is new and exiting.
Iwent on a loose formation flight wih John Jung and another guy named Pat.
What a feeling to be part of a squadron flying a mission! We Flew about an
hour over a big church or monastary in southern Wisc. called Holy Hill.The
size and beauty of this place and the Wisc. countryside made a lasting
impression on me. There is 35 hr. left of my test period(phase 1) so I will
be getting pretty familiar with this area.Well, I just had to tell someone.
Thanks,John Bruzan FSII 503 EIS BRS Shuttle
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil Tank Bracket on 912 |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Kolbers,
I have arrived at the grand moment when I prepare the 912 for
installation on the Mark III. When I mounted the oil tank on the rear of
the engine, I discovered that lack of arc in the braces which run between
the mounting holes caused the plastic cover over the mags to be distorted
to the point of being in contact with the outer lobe.
Shims under the feet of the bracket to reduce the distortion of the cover
reduces the thread of the bolts in the casting to 1/4th inch and
clearance is still questionable. This is a high vibration area and I am
NOT comfortable with this arrangement.
Has anyone else encountered this problem and or have a solution? I
suspect the solution is a new bracket with sufficient arc in the cross
braces.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
> >
> >anyone seen plans available for a similar type a/c......that is tube
> >spars,tail, pusher,
> >taildragger?
>
> There may be some old Ultrastar plans around from when they first were
> built. Perhaps you could advertise to find them.
>
> Woody
I'll suggest that the Mk II is also up for grabs or at least in limbo. Not
so delicately put, but I'd like to see someone wholeheartedly adopt the
model. Also, I think the Mk II plans don't include the cage since it was
prebuilt.
David Bruner
Kingston, NY
Mk II m2-202
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
>
> Hey Gang,
>
> I am in the design stage of a hangar for my Kolb play toy and need some
> collective wisdom...(Is KOLB hangars to far off topic for this
> list???...Sorry couldn't resist)
>
> Without going into a lengthy unnecessary explanation I have the material
to
> build a hanger 26' wide X upwards of around 50' long fairly inexpensively.
> BUT the problem is the door width will be 25'! Obviously the Kolb Mark 3
> (Knew I should have built a 22' wingspan Slingshot) has a wingspan of
right
There's a character in my neck of the woods that's advertising a 36x36 tube
and fabric covered shelter in the current issue of UL Flying. $2500. He's
got the prototype at Resnick airport, Ellenville, NY. 2 Flightstar IISL's
roll right in. The last strong winds changed the quonset shape into
something more like wing-shaped, but after some more gussets it weathered
the next storm OK. Don't know about the fabric tho - it would have to be
guaranteed for some # of years for that much $. I could take a pic next
time I'm there if you're interested.
david bruner
Kingston, NY
Mk II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Monday's Flight |
Good for you John. I'd be interested in your reactions to flying your
plane. How it handles, what it felt like the 1st time up, what experience
you have, and so on. Enjoy ! ! ! Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bruzan3(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Monday's Flight
>
> Hey guys,
> I just wanted to tell you about a flight I made with two other firestars
on
> monday.
> Since I am a low time pilot it seems everything I do is new and exiting.
> Iwent on a loose formation flight wih John Jung and another guy named Pat.
> What a feeling to be part of a squadron flying a mission! We Flew about an
> hour over a big church or monastary in southern Wisc. called Holy Hill.The
> size and beauty of this place and the Wisc. countryside made a lasting
> impression on me. There is 35 hr. left of my test period(phase 1) so I
will
> be getting pretty familiar with this area.Well, I just had to tell
someone.
> Thanks,John Bruzan FSII 503 EIS BRS Shuttle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Do you need to have a door? I do not have a door, but I do not have a high
risk of wind, and security is not (so far) a consideration.
If you do not need a door, and you are interested, you can take a look at
my home made hangar at
http://www.ultralightnews.com/features/hangar/hangar.html
(hope I spelled it right-getting sleepy)
My son and I built it in about 5 days for under $1400
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>Hey Gang,
>
>I am in the design stage of a hangar for my Kolb play toy and need some
>collective wisdom...(Is KOLB hangars to far off topic for this
>list???...Sorry couldn't resist)
>
>Without going into a lengthy unnecessary explanation I have the material to
>build a hanger 26' wide X upwards of around 50' long fairly inexpensively.
>BUT the problem is the door width will be 25'! Obviously the Kolb Mark 3
>(Knew I should have built a 22' wingspan Slingshot) has a wingspan of right
>at 30' and will not fit. My question is this...to get the door opening wide
>enough I have to put it in the 50' side of the building which will require a
>35' +/- steel beam to the tune of $1000 or so for all associated framing or
>do something like this...
>
>http://freespace.virgin.net/shadow.owners/trolley.htm
>
>A trolley or similar mechanism would be very cheap to make just take some of
>that time that I already don't have and would mean some sort of extra step
>besides open door, roll out plane. The door would be nice but more
>expensive.
>
>Question 1. All things being equal (Once plane is actually in the hangar)
>is 26' enough to get around the ends of the plan comfortably? In other
>words ... "How big are your hangars , and how much bigger would you like/or
>smaller could you get away with???"
>
>Question 2. Would a $1000 beam/columns , etc. for a 35' door be worth the
>aggravation of not having to fool with some kind of trolley to wheel the
>plane in sideways with??? Opinion here as I know money is more value to
>some than to others...
>
>Jeremy Casey
>jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vendor48(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 05/31/00 |
In a message dated 01-Jun-00 2:36:48 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< I am in the design stage of a hangar >>
If you want a good solution to the open side of the hangar and a possible
door, consider this. Check with local construction companies, or those that
fab metal buildings, and buy a bent or damaged steel truss. You can pick
them up cheap (I did). As for a door, I saw an article with a pivoting
center pole, that consisted of two overhead door rails, back to back.
Purchase two 16 overheads (scratch and dent sales provide bargains). Each
can be opened independently, or both to remove the plane. The center "pole"
is made to pivot with a light weight boat trailer winch, to pull it up out of
the way. It can also be reinforced to provide support (such as snow load)
during the winter. I could go on about how I mowed the grass after fixing my
mower deck, and that I had to move some Kolb parts to get to the
welder....but I won't! Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vendor48(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Hangar solutions |
In a message dated 01-Jun-00 2:36:48 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< I am in the design stage of a hangar >>
If you want a good solution to the open side of the hangar and a possible
door, consider this. Check with local construction companies, or those that
fab metal buildings, and buy a bent or damaged steel truss. You can pick
them up cheap (I did). As for a door, I saw an article with a pivoting
center pole, that consisted of two overhead door rails, back to back.
Purchase two 16 overheads (scratch and dent sales provide bargains). Each
can be opened independently, or both to remove the plane. The center "pole"
is made to pivot with a light weight boat trailer winch, to pull it up out of
the way. It can also be reinforced to provide support (such as snow load)
during the winter. I could go on about how I mowed the grass after fixing my
mower deck, and that I had to move some Kolb parts to get to the
welder....but I won't! Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <NeilsenR(at)state.mi.us> |
I have a 32' X 40' pole barn, it has four sliding doors on the 32' end that slide
out past the sides of the barn into a pocket. The cost of the 32 foot trusses
wasn't that much more than the 25' trusses (the cost per sq. ft. was about
the same). As with any barn the inside size isn't as wide as you think, with my
32' barn I have app 2" clearance for each wing tip for my MKIII. I find the
setup works will but is too narrow. If I were to do it again I would go for at
least a 34' barn.
Other considerations are if your in snow country a side opening door will have
large piles of snow right were you want move the plane in and out.
Rick Neilsen
VW powered MKIII 29.4 hours
>>> jrcasey(at)mindspring.com 05/31/00 05:29PM >>>
Hey Gang,
I am in the design stage of a hangar for my Kolb play toy and need some
collective wisdom...(Is KOLB hangars to far off topic for this
list???...Sorry couldn't resist)
Without going into a lengthy unnecessary explanation I have the material to
build a hanger 26' wide X upwards of around 50' long fairly inexpensively.
BUT the problem is the door width will be 25'!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monday's Flight |
Group,
I was in one of the three Firestar II's, in John Bruzan's Monday flight,
and I have two comments:
1) I would like to encourage others to share your "new and exciting"
experiences like John did. I think that it helps to inspire those that are
still building. It also helps others, like myself to keep a perspective, that
tends to get lost over the years of flying.
2) For those that haven't painted their planes yet, consider making them "high
visability" colors. John's Firestar II is mostly white and Pat's is yellow. It
was easy to keep them in view while flying together. But I have flown
with planes painted primarily dark colors or grey or blue, that just disappear.
The difference in colors and
visability is like "night and day". It makes way more difference than having a
strobe.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Bruzan3(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
> I just wanted to tell you about a flight I made with two other firestars on
> monday.
> Since I am a low time pilot it seems everything I do is new and exiting.
snip................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
>Question 1. All things being equal (Once plane is actually in the hangar)
>is 26' enough to get around the ends of the plan comfortably? In other
>words ... "How big are your hangars , and how much bigger would you
like/or
>smaller could you get away with???"
>
>Question 2. Would a $1000 beam/columns , etc. for a 35' door be worth the
>aggravation of not having to fool with some kind of trolley to wheel the
>plane in sideways with??? Opinion here as I know money is more value to
>some than to others...
I followed the link and read about the ingenious trolley and think it is
pretty cool for an existing building. However, if you are building from
scratch, try to make a "T" hangar style building, I think it will be more
versatile over the course of its lifetime. Here's a few facts that may
help:
I-beam door header - I have seen these made of wood, mounted on the outside
of the building, like an upside down roof truss, I have also seen
re-utilized bridge steel welded together, and my own solution was to
purchase segments of salvage industrial floor support trusses in fourteen
foot pieces and weld them into a 36 foot beam. The floor trusses are an
open-web with two 1/4" x 2" x 2" top angle iron pcs, and a single 2" x 2"
angle bottom pc, and 1" trussing rod bent back and forth and welded between
the top and bottom. To join the segments we cut them to match up the
trussing rod, overlapped and welded the trussing rod, butt welded the top
and bottom elements, then added 1/4 x 2" x 2 foot plates across the top and
bottom joints, skip welded and not welded across the ends of these plates.
If you don't know why we did not weld across the plates, hire this done by
a professional. Across the top, every two feet, we welded on a 1 inch
segment of 1/4" x 4" x 4" angle with a hole drilled thru to later bolt on a
2 x 6 roof rafter. At the ends we welded on some 1/4" x 6" x 6" angle pcs
a couple feet long, vertically to bolt thru to fasten the beam to the tops
of a couple 6x6 pressure treated posts. We made a 36 foot span building,
and eventually the door design I chose took a foot off each side so now it
opens 34 feet which is plenty big for a KOLB MKiii, and should be big
enough for most small aircraft to roll straight in and out of without rash.
The beam completed with fittings to bolt onto the posts cost me less than
$50 and one afternoon's welding work, plus painting. The rest of the
building cost less than $1200 for all new materials, EXCEPT for the doors.
The doors are a built of four door segments, hinged together in sets, each
set hinging from the front corner posts, just like a normal household
closet bifold door. At the tip of the inner door to control the motion and
help hold up some weight I added a roller. The door sements are welded of
18 gauge 1.5" square tube, with pole-building steel screwed on. Latches
are added in the form of 4 foot pcs of 1 inch square tube sliding thru
guides to drop into cemented-in steel receivers in the ground, or upward to
catch on the bottom of the I-beam. I also added a couple short posts
outside the hanger to act as door stops and I chain the doors to the posts
when they are open. This door design was copied from a couple friends'
hangars at a local airpark. They work smoothly and effortlessly. I spent
about three hundred dollars on the doors, hinges, latches, paint, screws,
etc.
I was fortunate to have many examples of hangars and doors to view to get
ideas for this project. Rough-sawn lumber can save you money but cost you
construction time, and some of the guys have found real nice used sheet
steel at pretty cheap prices too (especially if you aren't too fussy about
the color).
To get a better deal on the beam, start looking into salvaged materials.
Salvage steel is at a very low price right now (36 dollars per ton, in my
area). If you are lucky you can get the beam put together from salvage pcs
and only have to do some work or hire someone to do the welding for you,
for a very good price. It makes for a very strong dependable building. If
you are in doubt, find an engineer friend to give some advice. Or copy
something that has been working for someone else. Good luck, if you want
any more detail, just ask.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Thursday's Flight |
The wind has been blowing in my area every evening all week so I decided to
try it earlier in the morning. The plane was rolled out and preflighted as
the sun came up and the wind was dead calm. I failed to hit the enricher just
as the engine started so it sputtered and died. Gave her more pulls with
extra shot of prime, no joy. Went to the last resort starter fluid and she
started beautifully. Don't like to use that stuff but it really works.
Off and running after a quick call to Quincy (Florida) Unicom and found that
I had the whole airport to myself. From 2,500' visibility was in light years.
Did my usual warm up flying "S" turns over a country road then a few fly-bys,
touch 'n goes and short approaches.
Next I got down to the serious stuff of what is my best distance glide
airspeed in the current plane configuation. After flying flying the same
measured distance at various speeds with the engine at 2,500 RPM and
recording the altitude lost each time I found my best glide distance speed to
be 40 MPH. My ROC was indicating Approx 400'/min loss. This is straight ahead
gliding so turns will cost more altitude and prevailing wind will have to be
allowed for but I now have a pretty good idea of how to get the most distance
from a glide if things go quiet some day.
My wife had asked me to see if the tomatoes were available at the farms in
the area. I obliged her by flying over some of the fields for a look. When I
told her the answer was "yes" she told me she had expected me to go to the
processing plants and buy some of their best. It's the dog house again for
me.
Used up 1.3 hours and 3.3 Gal. so I am using a little over 2.5 gal/ Hr.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL FireFly,447,IVO,full canopy, big wheels
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thursday's Flight |
In a message dated 6/1/00 12:11:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, MitchMnD(at)aol.com
writes:
<< I found my best glide distance speed to
be 40 MPH. My ROC was indicating Approx 400'/min loss. This is straight
ahead
gliding so turns will cost more altitude and prevailing wind will have to be
allowed for but I now have a pretty good idea of how to get the most
distance
from a glide if things go quiet some day.
My wife had asked me to see if the tomatoes were available at the farms in
the area. I obliged her by flying over some of the fields for a look. When I
told her the answer was "yes" she told me she had expected me to go to the
processing plants and buy some of their best. It's the dog house again for
me.
Used up 1.3 hours and 3.3 Gal. so I am using a little over 2.5 gal/ Hr.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL FireFly,447,IVO,full canopy, big wheels
Good story Duane, | STILL can't fly up here in Ohio due to the wind and
rain....
GeoR38
Firestar By George! driver, since 92
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can you cut EGT &CHT sensor wires? |
>
>According to Bob's book and the uMonitor instructions, it is important
>to use the same type/size of wire and connectors for the intermediate
>cable runs. Each connection of different metals creates another
>thermocouple junction. By using the same materials in the intermediate
>cables, the effects of these extra junctions will cancle out.
See http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
If the floor is finished and there is an exterior apron trolleys work well.
If the floor is rough or unfinished larger air filled tires will make it
smoother. The weight of the plane is managable if you lift one wheel at
a time. I have seen pilots wiggle their ultralights through relativley
small doors on castered dollys.
Dale Seitzer Original Firestar
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Casey
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 4:29 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb hangar
Hey Gang,
I am in the design stage of a hangar for my Kolb play toy and need some
collective wisdom...(Is KOLB hangars to far off topic for this
list???...Sorry couldn't resist)
Without going into a lengthy unnecessary explanation I have the material to
build a hanger 26' wide X upwards of around 50' long fairly inexpensively.
BUT the problem is the door width will be 25'! Obviously the Kolb Mark 3
(Knew I should have built a 22' wingspan Slingshot) has a wingspan of
right
at 30' and will not fit. My question is this...to get the door opening
wide
enough I have to put it in the 50' side of the building which will require
a
35' +/- steel beam to the tune of $1000 or so for all associated framing or
do something like this...
http://freespace.virgin.net/shadow.owners/trolley.htm
A trolley or similar mechanism would be very cheap to make just take some
of
that time that I already don't have and would mean some sort of extra step
besides open door, roll out plane. The door would be nice but more
expensive.
Question 1. All things being equal (Once plane is actually in the hangar)
is 26' enough to get around the ends of the plan comfortably? In other
words ... "How big are your hangars , and how much bigger would you like/or
smaller could you get away with???"
Question 2. Would a $1000 beam/columns , etc. for a 35' door be worth the
aggravation of not having to fool with some kind of trolley to wheel the
plane in sideways with??? Opinion here as I know money is more value to
some than to others...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Watch out for Kolbs |
Everyone brings joy to a room.Some when they enter, some when they leave.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
I am in the planning process of enclosing a shed on my barn to make a
building shop, and later, a hanger for a Mark IIIXtra. My question is: how
feasible is it to fold the wings on the Mark III every time you fly it? What
is a realistic time required to unfold and fold the wings?
My room would be 32' x 10'. I am planning to insulate it, so I can heat and
possibly cool it when necessary to work on the plane. Do you think that a
vapor barrier would be a good idea? Kentucky has a lot of humidity and
tools in my barn seem to rust easily. I am thinking that a dehumidifier in
the room would help limit any rust/corrosion problems.
Thank you for your responses,
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
If you plan to fold/unfold the wings every time, the gap seal is the item
to get perfect. Figure out a gap seal that you can leave in place and you
will reduce your assembly time a lot. This will be quite a challenge.
Folding and unfolding the wings can be done in ten minutes. Depending on
your gap seal, that's where the time adds up. Mine fits over/around a
parachute and launcher, and takes a minimum of fifteen minutes. I stay set
up, but if I had to set up each time, I'd give the parachute away and make
a new gap seal.
On vapor barriers? I'm unqualified to voice an opinion.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>
>I am in the planning process of enclosing a shed on my barn to make a
>building shop, and later, a hanger for a Mark IIIXtra. My question is: how
>feasible is it to fold the wings on the Mark III every time you fly it? What
>is a realistic time required to unfold and fold the wings?
>
>My room would be 32' x 10'. I am planning to insulate it, so I can heat and
>possibly cool it when necessary to work on the plane. Do you think that a
>vapor barrier would be a good idea? Kentucky has a lot of humidity and
>tools in my barn seem to rust easily. I am thinking that a dehumidifier in
>the room would help limit any rust/corrosion problems.
>
>Thank you for your responses,
>Clay Stuart
>Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Clay,
Folding the wings on a Kolb each time you fly IS feasible. Plan on 10 to 20
minutes each way. There are a number of flyers on the list that do this.
But if you are going to build, build it bigger. Having a plane sitting
there ready to go is "where its at" in my opinion. I like to fly in the
evening, and folding the plane as it is getting dark and the mosquitos are
biting gets old fast. I have done it both ways, and I won't go bact to folding
unless I have to.
John Jung
SE Wisconsin
Clay Stuart wrote:
>
> I am in the planning process of enclosing a shed on my barn to make a
> building shop, and later, a hanger for a Mark IIIXtra. My question is: how
> feasible is it to fold the wings on the Mark III every time you fly it? What
> is a realistic time required to unfold and fold the wings?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Bigger is better. I'm building my Mk III on a 7' x 40' screened in mobile
home porch in the desert, and it's been a real struggle. Obviously it CAN
be done, but it's awkward. I have 2 friends building planes in 2 car
garages, ( Titan and Sea Ray ) and I have to admit being envious. Even in
the desert, I've had problems with rusting, and dirt ( blow sand ) on my
tools, etc. I'd say go with the vapor barrier while you're at it. Heat and
a/c are a real plus. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Clay Stuart <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 6:11 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Shop/hanger
>
>
> I am in the planning process of enclosing a shed on my barn to make a
> building shop, and later, a hanger for a Mark IIIXtra. My question is:
how
> feasible is it to fold the wings on the Mark III every time you fly it?
What
> is a realistic time required to unfold and fold the wings?
>
> My room would be 32' x 10'. I am planning to insulate it, so I can heat
and
> possibly cool it when necessary to work on the plane. Do you think that a
> vapor barrier would be a good idea? Kentucky has a lot of humidity and
> tools in my barn seem to rust easily. I am thinking that a dehumidifier
in
> the room would help limit any rust/corrosion problems.
>
> Thank you for your responses,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert F. Bean" <rfbean(at)rochester.infi.net> |
A good shelter can be built cheaply. Mine (40x25) has a box beam front
span created from
2x6's flat (that's the WIDE way) faced off with 4x8 plywood, recommend
min 5/8".
my edge 2x6's are scarf spliced end to end with short internaldoublers
Internally p ut verticals every 4' and diagonals in compression, and
for areas with snow load
an internal cable strung in a V. The roof beams are 3 sideways V's
composed of 2x4's
laid skinny way faced with ply. transverse supporting joists are 2x6's
placed with joist hangers.
Of course if you can get a nice welded truss beam that's the way to go,
this is just an alternative.
and mine safely sheltered an Aeronca for 20 yrs. Recommend vapor
barrier floor even if
only gravel over plastic. And BACK TO THE WIND!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darren Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
| Subject: | Either/Starting Fluid |
Duane/ Group
Some of my thoughts on the recent starting fluid post-
>>Went to the last resort starter fluid and she
>>started beautifully. Don't like to use that stuff but it really works.
This is from archive--
>> I too made that discovery with same results but my mechanic buddy says
that
>>it is a bad idea as the Either washes the lubrication off the cyl. walls,
can
>>cause gulling & severe detonation. Why is it if its fun or easy its
always
>>bad?!
This also from archive---
>>The 532 in my J-6 was an absolute bear to start, and would never hit a
lick
>>without a shot of ether to tickle it. Never seemed to adversely affect it.
>>That was a good engine, and would have been even better if the previous
>>owner had not seen fit to have left ball-peen hammer marks on the crank
>>journals for some unknown reason. Even so it had the courtesy to break the
>>crank on the ground when it did let go, I thought that was kinda nice. But
>>anyway, I always gave it a shot of ether on the air filter, and away it
>>went
I have seen pistons shattered from this evil stuff, (not in a two-stroke
motor)"severe detonation" wont help other parts like cranks, rods, &
bearings either.
My older U/L was starting hard one day. A shot of either- started right up,
even though the rings were stuck on the intake side. (unknown to me, duh!) I
flew about 30 minuets, and had enough of a seizure to scare the ---- outa me
, but not enough to kill the engine.
My point? if your engine won't start-- FIND OUT WHY.
There more than likely is something wrong, and why risk stressing engine
parts that you are trusting with your well being.
Darren Smalec, either-free, 5 years!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Either/Starting Fluid |
Group,
Proper running Rotax engines are easy to start. When the are difficult to
start, there is something wrong. And usually it means that the rings are stuck.
And a Rotax with stuck rings is likely to sieze. I base this on being in the
sport for 13 years, being a member of an ultralight club of over 100 members,
and owning / operating 5 different Rotax engines. Also , I learned for people
that were in the sport much longer than myself.
Be careful out there!
John Jung
SE Wisconsin
>>Went to the last resort starter fluid and she
>>started beautifully. Don't like to use that stuff but it really works.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Either/Starting Fluid |
Kolbers:
On the subject of hard starting. My hangarmate has a Mark 2 with a 503
that started on the third pull for years. Never failed. A while back it
became difficult to start and over time got worse. He pulled his hair out
changing plugs, looking at the rings, checking compression, retorquing the
heads etc. Turns out that the brown plastic right angle plug cap is supposed
to have a resistance of 5 ohms. When checked it turned out that two of his
caps had gone to infinity, though, oddly enough, the mag check was OK.
The Rotax maintenance schedule merely suggests that you check the plug
cap, it doesn't give much detail on what you should do. My recommendation is
this: 1) check the brass fitting inside the cap for evidence of burning; 2)
unscrew the plug cap from the plug wire and check the threaded screw on the
plug and the wires visible in the end of the plug wire for burning; 3) test
the cap with your multi meter.
With two new caps my buddy's plane was back to starting on the third pull
every time.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Watch out for Kolbs |
In a message dated 6/1/00 9:16:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ZepRep251(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Everyone brings joy to a room.Some when they enter, some when they leave.
>>
Good for you Zep, and you are obviously one who makes the effort to bring
that joy, as opposed to some few others. .....just like marriage ....ya gotta
work at it.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Recharging AA batteries.... Thumbs |
This is a general all around question but I thought I would ask you guys and
see what you have come up with.
I'm getting to the point where I use a lot of double A batteries. This has
to do with a Kolb list because I used them for my GPS while flying. Like you
guys I use them in a whole bunch of other things like cameras and
communicators. A question is, what is the best set up for rechargeable
double A batteries? I remember not too long ago they came out with new
batteries and new charging system that was supposed to be so much better
than the regular rechargeable batteries. Have you guys found this to be the
way to go? Or are these just something new that really aren't any better
than the old ones?
What is the best way to go for recharging double A batteries?
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Recharging double A batteries |
This is a general all around question but I thought I would ask you guys and
see what you have come up with.
I'm getting to the point where I use a lot of double A batteries. This has
to do with a Kolb list because I used them for my GPS while flying. Like you
guys I use them in a whole bunch of other things like cameras and
communicators. A question is, what is the best set up for rechargeable
double A batteries? I remember not too long ago they came out with new
batteries and new charging system that was supposed to be so much better
than the regular rechargeable batteries. Have you guys found this to be the
way to go? Or are these just something new that really aren't any better
than the old ones?
What is the best way to go for recharging double A batteries?
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Recharging AA batteries. |
Gary,
Being the original el cheapo, I don't buy many AAs if my gizmo has an
ext pwr jack. I get a RS 4-D cell holder (for a 6V pack) and fill it
with leftover D cells scavanged from ELT batt packs that have to tossed
out abt every coupla years, whether used or not.Any shop has these that
you can get. may have to bust open the original pack, but it isn't hi
voltage, nor is it chemically dangerous. Originally written in my column
*Shade Tree Mechanic* in old Aviation Digest.
Get a matching pwr plug, a few ft of wire--and there's a practically zip
cost source of cheap pwr. Can stick the pack in ur coat/jacket pocket.
Mine aren't pretty, but pretty cheap!
bn
http://members.xoom.com/ronoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Recharging AA batteries... Thumbs |
I guess what I was really asking was about that in new charging system that
came out a year or so ago. That was a one that the new batteries and the new
chargers that were supposed to be so much more powerful and last longer than
the other rechargeables on the market. Do you know anything about these?
I clicked into your Web site and saw that you have a couple of books that a
pretty interesting. I'm going to keep the wed site and drop a hint at birth
daytime.
Thanks again for the info
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Fly-in |
Forwarded from GSF Club.
Subject: [gsfa] Etowah Bend Fly-In June 10 Ultralight and Lightplanes
Etowah Bend Fly-In June 10 Ultralight and Lightplanes
Once again, the Air Rally will be held at Etowah Bend, Kingston, Ga. We are
guests once again at Etowah Bend, the old Glider Port near Rome, GA
with a 3000 ft grass runway. ( see photo attached )
This is our annual flying competition of bowling, bomb drop,
torpedo etc. The Air Rally begins at 10am. Lunch will be
served at 12:00 and dinner at approx. 4pm. This is an all day event.
Please spread the word come and share the day with us.
Last year we had over 85 airplanes attending with planes from Florida,
Alabama
and Tenenssee attending including several dozen General Aviation Type
Airplanes.
and over a thousand in attendance ! ! !
We hope to have an access to the river to enjoy the cool waters.
Also, we are going to have a bon fire in the early evening to celebrate the
sunset.
Steve Green and Mark Kell have been invited to play their guitars and perform
- live once again, "The Doctors Magic" in concert!
Any others out there that wish to join in, come on. Don't forget; bring your
smile,
suntan lotion, hat, camera and your chairs! We will have plenty of food &
beverages
on sale, as well as commemorative T-shirts, Club hats and tickets for raffle
drawings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Either/Starting Fluid |
>
> Kolbers:
> Turns out that the brown plastic right angle plug cap is supposed to
> have a resistance of 5 ohms. When checked it turned out that two of
>his caps had gone to infinity, though, oddly enough, the mag check was >
OK.
I believe the resistor plug cap should be 5K ohms which is 5000 ohms.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Recharging AA batteries.... Thumbs |
Tonight's my night, I guess. 2 thoughts.......... 1. Several years ago I
bought a rechargeable AA setup that used special yellow batteries. Don't
remember the brand. The thing to check for is that the batteries were 1.2
volt, or very close. Standard AA's are 1.5 volt. My Magellan GPS ate those
batteries like candy - 3 every 20 minutes. Drove me nuts. Same with the
AAA's in my mini-mini-maglite. Gotta have 1.5 volt, or you'll have grief.
2. In the same vein, my solution for the GPS in those many rental planes
without a working lighter socket, I put a 4.0 Ah motorcycle battery in a
fanny pack, with the appropriate connectors, etc., and it also holds my 2/4
place intercom. Very handy, and it'll run that GPS and/or intercom for a
couple of days, then just takes a recharge to start over. I'm ashamed to
say I can't remember the name of the List-er back east who was good enuf to
send me a new battery a year or 2 ago, when the original one died.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Thacker <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 5:42 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Recharging AA batteries.... Thumbs
>
> This is a general all around question but I thought I would ask you guys
and
> see what you have come up with.
>
> I'm getting to the point where I use a lot of double A batteries. This has
> to do with a Kolb list because I used them for my GPS while flying. Like
you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Long message - prepare to hit delete. For those interested in working with
Lexan only
I finally gave up trying to get the paper off my wing center section. Tried
paint thinner, alcohol, soap and water, goo gone, (dulled the surface) and
strong, rich language. Center section is now aluminum. As many of
you know, I built gullwing doors for my Mk III. Noodled for a long time on
sealing the front around the nose cone, and the center hinge. Finally hit
on the idea of making it flush, instead of on top of the nose, so I needed
to install "bumper strips" on the inside edge of the nose cone, for the
doors to close against. I cut strips of cardboard for patterns, and glad I
did. The instrument panel is bonded to the inside of the nose cone, and it
goes in at an angle from the panel to the lip of the nose cone. The
patterns are pretty well curved arcs. Used them to cut out the proper shape
of lexan strips, about an inch wide. Ace Hardware has an epoxy kit in a
double syringe that is brutal stuff. Smells just like the stuff the dentist
uses to install a crown on a tooth. It's "Devcon High Strength Plastic
Welder." # S-220 22045. Hard Plastics and Fiberglass are checked off on
the package. It works so fast that I keep it in the fridge, and chill the
plastic as well. Then go at a literal RUN when I start. I epoxied the
curved lexan strips to the inside edge of the nose cone, and trimmed them
back after curing, so that about 3/8" sticks out for the door plastic to
close against. Really looks good ! ! ! Sorry to say though, that the
epoxy takes the paint right off. Gotta sand it first. Also pulled out some
of the real sloppy looking bondo under the paint, around the trailing edge
of the nose cone. Shame on you, Old Kolb. Lexan is not sensitive to tools,
as is plexiglass. Standard drills work fine - I use the B&D Power Point
bits, and love 'em. For cutting lexan, my good old carpenter's hand saw
does just fine. Fast and smooth - for curves too. Saber saw does well too,
but tends to beat up the plastic pretty bad. Care is needed; I prefer the
hand saw for all but sharp curves. For fine cuts, I used an Exacto back
saw, for modelers' use. They cut fingers good, too. For trimming down to a
line, nothing I've found works nearly as good as a Stanley Surform Shaver,
#21-115. It has a curved foot, 1 5/8" x 2 1/2", and it's set up to cut on
the pull stroke. This thing removes edge material fast and smooth. Great !
! ! This time I pulled off the protective paper as soon as I was done ! !
! Can't believe the difference it makes. Suddenly it looks like an actual
airplane. Hoo-ee, I was durned near dancing around that thing this
afternoon, and grinning fit to hurt my jaws. Still gotta cover it
tho'................. Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm on a roll tonight ! ! ! This is for radio antennas. Rest of ya hit
Delete.
Recently Boyd Young and I were talking about radios, off List. I also have
a friend in Port Angeles who's been a CB and Ham bug all his life. We
talked about replacing the ground plane, which can be awkward in a Kolb,
with a dipole setup. Boyd built one out of a piece of co-ax, as he said the
other day, and now tells me that he was able to talk about 150 miles with
his homebrew antenna. Good work, Boyd. Who needs that fancy high priced
stuff ?? Now, old Richard, my P.A. buddy has been coaching me on the
following: Apparently there's a constant that works out to 11811. Choose
the frequency you'll most often use - for me that's 122.8 or 123.00 How
'bout 123 for easier numbers ?? Divide 11811 by 123, and the result by 4.
Should get 24.006...... That's your 1/4 wave length. You need 2 stainless
steel whips, 24.00.... and a bit long. Mount them back to back, separated,
on an insulated base, so that you have a total antenna length of 48" & the
separating distance, say 1 or 2 inches. Hook the center wire of the co-ax
to one, the braid to the other. Make it waterproof, rain will get into the
braid and mess up the SWR. For best results, he says to make the co-ax in
multiples of the 1/2 wave length. (48") But it's not that simple. Seems
each co-ax has its' own "Velocity Factor." If you use RG8M co-ax, that V.F.
is 78%. So, 1/2 wave of 48" x 78% = 37.44". The length of your co-ax
should be in multiples of 37.44 inches. Hook your SWR meter between co-ax
and radio, and start trimming the 2 antenna ends - not the co-ax. They MUST
be exactly the same length. Trim just a fraction of an inch at a time.
Small Fraction. Richard says you should be able to get a "dead" meter. SWR
of 1 ! ! ! Think I said that right. I guarantee ya, Sports Fans, I'm a
gonna build one, and mount it on the strut on the passenger side. Oh yeah,
he says for best results, to mount the whole thing vertically. If all
this sounds like too much work, build a 48" co-ax dipole. Boyd told us how
the other day, and it's simple, and cheap. Have at 'er. Big
Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder spring attach point |
Hi Gang,
I have a problem and a question. The problem is I'm not sure about how
to attach the rudder springs or what to attach them to. In the plans it
shows a tube extending out from the cross tube that the rudder pedals swivel
on but it is a side view and does not give any detail. Am I missing
something that's right in front of me? I can't see an easy way to attach a
alum. tube at this point. How have other list members attached their rudder
springs on late model Firestars? I had planned on attaching the springs to
the bracket that holds the pitot tube on front of the pod. I made the
bracket out of heavy alum. stock but am wondering if the fiberglass will
hold the tension of the springs without pulling the rivets through the
fiberglass. Please share your ideas and experiences with me. Thanks.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/3/00 1:50:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< For best results, he says to make the co-ax in
multiples of the 1/2 wave length. (48") But it's not that simple. Seems
each co-ax has its' own "Velocity Factor." If you use RG8M co-ax, that V.F.
is 78%. So, 1/2 wave of 48" x 78% = 37.44". >>
But what if your coax is RG58; what's the VF then??
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Recharging double A batteries |
Gary and other interested,
I learned this in recent months. For recharable batteries, use
nickel-metal hydride. They outperform alkaline and NiCad easily, and they have
no "memory" like NiCad. But like NiCad they don't hold there charge for long
periods of time. You may not want them in a GPS if you let it sit for months
over the winter, but they are great in those battery eating applications like
digital cameras.
John Jung
Gary Thacker wrote:
> snip....
> A question is, what is the best set up for rechargeable
> double A batteries?
> snip....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder spring attach point |
John,
My Firestar II has a short tube welded on the front. It angles up and
forward so that a tube can be inserted and will hold the rudder pedal springs.
My original Firestar had the springs attached to a bracket that was riveted to
the pod, so that should work, if they forgot to weld on your short tube.
John Jung
John Cooley wrote:
>
> Hi Gang,
> I have a problem and a question. The problem is I'm not sure about how
> to attach the rudder springs or what to attach them to.snip....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder spring attach point |
John C.
The web link below is a picture of my rudder spring attach point. Ignore the
half-round file wedged between the bottom pedals and the short tube, I used
it to temporally hold the pedals upright. My FireStar II was assigned serial
number FS-650 by the old Kolb, it's not the same as the number stamped on the
rear, engine mount tube, cage. If your serial number is 1162 it should have
the short tube welded on, unless, like John J. said, someone forgot to weld
it on. The 3/8X.058X8.75 alum. tube slides into the, welded on, short tube
then just hook the springs to the end of the alum. tube. The earlier
FireStars didn't have the welded on short tube.
http://members.aol.com/willuribe/149.jpg
Will Uribe
building a FireStar II
El Paso, TX
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
BTW; Thanks to all who responded to my question on the 5/8" X 11" tube that
mounts through the rear fuselage tube used to hold the folded wings.
In a message dated 6/3/00 8:44:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time, jrjung(at)execpc.com
writes:
> John,
>
> My Firestar II has a short tube welded on the front. It angles up and
> forward so that a tube can be inserted and will hold the rudder pedal
> springs.
> My original Firestar had the springs attached to a bracket that was
riveted
> to
> the pod, so that should work, if they forgot to weld on your short tube.
>
> John Jung
>
> John Cooley wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Gang,
> > I have a problem and a question. The problem is I'm not sure about
how
> > to attach the rudder springs or what to attach them to.snip....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I dunno. Time to get on the phone, or the internet, and find out, I guess.
Unhelpful Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, June 02, 2000 11:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Antennas
>
> In a message dated 6/3/00 1:50:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> << For best results, he says to make the co-ax in
> multiples of the 1/2 wave length. (48") But it's not that simple. Seems
> each co-ax has its' own "Velocity Factor." If you use RG8M co-ax, that
V.F.
> is 78%. So, 1/2 wave of 48" x 78% = 37.44". >>
>
> But what if your coax is RG58; what's the VF then??
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS I
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder spring attach point |
In a message dated 6/3/00 2:12:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
johnc(at)datasync.com writes:
<< I made the
bracket out of heavy alum. stock but am wondering if the fiberglass will
hold the tension of the springs without pulling the rivets through the
fiberglass. Please share your ideas and experiences with me. Thanks. >>
I made an aluminum "backing plate" for the rivets to go thru [on the outside
of the pod]. About 3" long X 3/4" hi.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net> |
>
. Finally hit
>on the idea of making it flush, instead of on top of the nose, so I needed
>to install "bumper strips" on the inside edge of the nose cone, for the
>doors to close against
> Can't believe the difference it makes. Suddenly it looks like an actual
>airplane. Big Lar.
>
I wish I'd done that. Nice going. I just finished the windshield and
enclosure, and didn't have a problem with the protective paper, but I kept
the lexan in the air-conditioned house instead of the 120-degree summertime
garage - maybe that made a difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Recharging AA batteries. |
In a message dated 6/3/00 3:21:27 AM, rbaker2(at)juno.com writes:
<< I use 2 AA's for the GPS, 4 for the Digital Camera (It eats batteries)
and 8 in the ICOM-4A, 4 in the desk calculator, 4 in the Furby and at a
couple of dozen D's in various flash lights, tape players and radios.
One of the benefits is that unlike NiCads they do not degrade when not in
use. >>
I have some Nickel Metal Hydride batteries from a company called Telepower
that are outstanding. My guess is that mine last five or six time longer in
my digital camera. They come with a small one piece plug in charger. I think
I got mine from B&H.
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I have a simple question that has been bugging me. I'm planning to install
a 912 in my Mark III, but I'm not real familiar with hooking one up (yet).
But I understand it comes with electronic ignition - so how is everyone
using the standard keyed ignition L-R-Both-Start switch, which is open to
leave mags on, and connects L and R to ground to turn off the ignition?
Doesn't the electronic ignition on the 912 need +voltage to work? I know
I'm missing something, somebody take pity and give me a clue. TIA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stuff for sale |
| From: | Bruce E Harrison <bharrison(at)juno.com> |
Hey Mike:
Do you still have the Rotax 532 listed below for sale? What about the
Warp drive 3-blade? Thanks.
>
> Well, if you want to make a small fortune in aviation ..........
> start off
> with a large fortune. I didn't have a large fortune to start off
> with so all
> I have now is a lot of bills and some parts to sell. Anyone who has
> ever had
> a small business die a premature death knows how sad it can be, but
> .......
> anyway here a list of the things I have for sale. I will consider
> almost any
> offer. Email me at quick503(at)aisp.net or call me @ (337) 365-3214.
> The only
> thing I won't part with is my MK III !
>
> 1. Powerfin 3 blade prop, 65", 'B' blades. Less than 10 hrs use. I
> had it on
> my Quicksilver Sport II with a 503 and 3:1. Great prop! I kept it
> when I
> sold the airplane a few months ago. $395.00
>
> 2. Warp Drive 3 blade 66" with nickel leading edge Right turning
> tractor.
> Came off of a Kit Fox with a Rotax 532. Excellent condition. $375.00
>
> 3. New Warp Drive blade with nickel leading edge. Never used. 70"
> right
> turning pusher. $75.00
>
> 4. 3 1/4" VDO tach for point ignition. Very good condition. 2 5/8"
> hole. $
> 40.00
>
> 5. Westach single EGT, new, 2 1/4 square. With threaded probe
> $50.00,
> without probe $40.00.
>
> 6. Single CHT, 2 1/4 square, used. Good condition. $30.00 with
> probe, $25.00
> without probe.
>
> 7. Towable Rotax Engine Test Stand. First Class design. Comes with
> Powerfin
> 3 blade prop and extra 2 blade hub. About 90% complete. A steal at
> $1800.00.
> Email me for pictures.
>
> 8. Rotax 532 wit exhaust. Came off of a Kit Fox. Appears to be in
> very good
> condition. Owner said it was very low hours. Takes a prov 4 'B' box.
> $750.00
>
> 9. Sky-West David 620 V-Twin 4-stroke. 60 hp @ 6500 rpm. Bent intake
> valve
> but the rest is good. Less than 5 hrs. Uses stock Honda 620 parts.
> Includes
> Honda Manual. $250.00 or BO.
>
> 10. Warner Electric Linear Actuator. Used on amphib retract on my MK
> III.
> 12DC, 250 lb load. $75.00
>
> 11. 12V Stewart Warner fuel pump. $20.00
>
> 12. Mercury carb synchronizer sold by Bing. $30.00
>
> 13. Muffler assay p.n. 973-191 for 377-503. Very good condition.
> $125.00.
>
> 14.TEGAM Model 819 Digital Microprocessor Thermometer for Type K, J,
> and T
> thermocouples. Never used. Very accurate. Handheld and battery
> powered. Quit
> guessing if your CHT and Egt are accurate! $200.00
>
> 15. Shimpo DT-205B Hand held digital Tachometer. Battery operated,
> computer-circuitry-controlled, both contact and non-contact. Used 3
> times.
> Very accurate and sturdy. Why guess if your tach is accurate?
> $200.00.
>
> 16. Rotax 503 single ignition, single carb for parts only. Has
> electronic
> ignition. Crank is bad and the intake flanges are damaged. Make
> Offer!
>
> Please let me know if any of this interest anyone. Cheers, Mike
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
Velocity factors for various coaxs
RG-8/U, RG-58/U, RG-11/U, RG-59/U---all 0.66
From Radio Amateur's Handbook
bn--K4JMG
http://members.xoom,com/ronoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Nothing to worry about. Your 912 should come with an installation manual
which includes a wiring diagram. The 912 ignition system has a lead from
each module to ground the ignition and shut it off.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Duncan McBride
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2000 12:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 912 ignition
I have a simple question that has been bugging me. I'm planning to install
a 912 in my Mark III, but I'm not real familiar with hooking one up (yet).
But I understand it comes with electronic ignition - so how is everyone
using the standard keyed ignition L-R-Both-Start switch, which is open to
leave mags on, and connects L and R to ground to turn off the ignition?
Doesn't the electronic ignition on the 912 need +voltage to work? I know
I'm missing something, somebody take pity and give me a clue. TIA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | bifold doors, etc |
Dear Jim and Kolb contributors,
I have reconsidered my barn renovation to hold a folded Kolb and now I am
planning a T-hanger plan modification of my barn so I won't have to fold
each time I fly. Thanks to everyone who answered my questions about the
feasibility of folding the wings each time. It sounds possible, but I think
it would be a deterrent to getting the plane out, especially on a
spur-of-the-moment flight near sunset.
I talked to Norm at a local fly-in two weeks ago and he said that Kolb does
not fold their Mark III, but they remove the wings to trailer it. That
tells me something.
Jim, on your bifold doors, do they have tracks on them similar to closet
doors? If so, on the top or bottom or both? Do they have rollers or
wheels? I have noticed that commercial hangers have bifold doors that break
horizontally and fold up to the top. From your description, yours obviously
break vertically. If I have a steel beam welded, would it be practical to
incorporate some type of door track hardware on the bottom of the beam?
Item of interest: At the Bluegrass Ultralight Group fly-in and meeting two
weeks ago, Norm Labhart told me that the Kolb factory Firefly didn't make it
and he was concerned. On my drive back home, I rounded a corner and there
was the Firefly beside the road in a hayfield. The pilot was lost and had
landed to ask a fella mowing his yard where the airport was. I told him
that Norm was looking for him and gave him directions to the airport. I
parked while he made his short roll and takeoff.
Our group is having a fly-in at the Lebanon-Springfield KY airport on June
24th. Factory Kolb is supposed to be there with the Mark IIIXtra, trailer,
etc. There should be a least one gyrocopter and numerous ultralights,
experimentals and GA planes. Everyone is welcome, fuel is available, food
and many activities.
Thanks everyone,
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I don't know if you read my original whining about that lexan center
section. I built it 3 yrs. ago, when starting this 1 yr. project, and left
it out on the porch in that nice desert sun. The protective paper became a
part of the lexan. Phooey ! ! ! Wiser Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Duncan McBride <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2000 8:50 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Lexan
>
>
> >
> . Finally hit
> >on the idea of making it flush, instead of on top of the nose, so I
needed
> >to install "bumper strips" on the inside edge of the nose cone, for the
> >doors to close against
> > Can't believe the difference it makes. Suddenly it looks like an
actual
> >airplane. Big Lar.
> >
>
> I wish I'd done that. Nice going. I just finished the windshield and
> enclosure, and didn't have a problem with the protective paper, but I kept
> the lexan in the air-conditioned house instead of the 120-degree
summertime
> garage - maybe that made a difference.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Many thanks. Does your book agree with Richard on .78 for RG8M ??
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2000 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Antennas
>
> Velocity factors for various coaxs
> RG-8/U, RG-58/U, RG-11/U, RG-59/U---all 0.66
>
> >From Radio Amateur's Handbook
>
> bn--K4JMG
>
> http://members.xoom,com/ronoyer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder spring attach point |
I sure hope so, I've been flying mine like that. I did reinforce the nose
behind the pitot tube for the rudder springs. No problems so far, (289
hours).
Dave Rains
FS II #435
El Paso.
-----Original Message-----
From: HShack(at)aol.com <HShack(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, June 03, 2000 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rudder spring attach point
>
>In a message dated 6/3/00 2:12:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>johnc(at)datasync.com writes:
>
><< I made the
> bracket out of heavy alum. stock but am wondering if the fiberglass will
> hold the tension of the springs without pulling the rivets through the
> fiberglass. Please share your ideas and experiences with me. Thanks. >>
>
>I made an aluminum "backing plate" for the rivets to go thru [on the
outside
>of the pod]. About 3" long X 3/4" hi.
>
>Howard Shackleford
>FS I
>SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
Big Lar,
Quick look on 'net shows we both are correct! RG-8 with foam dielectric
has VF of .78
RG-8 with solid poly dielectric has VF of .66.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd McFarlane <lrmcf(at)ix.netcom.com> |
rom: "John Cooley"
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rudder spring attach point
Hi Gang,
I have a problem and a question. The problem is I'm not sure about
how
to attach the rudder springs or what to attach them to. In the plans it
shows a tube extending out from the cross tube that the rudder pedals
swivel
on but it is a side view and does not give any detail.
John,
I have a 3/8" OD steel tube X 8 3/8" long which fits into the tube
socket welded to the cross member between the rudder pedals. Springs
attached to nose end of tube.
Lloyd
Fullerton, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Has anyone put gap-seals between their horizontal stablizers/elevators and
does it make any major difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
Possum: The answers are yes, yes, and yes...
RH MK3 912
DO NOT ACHIEVE
> Has anyone put gap-seals between their horizontal stablizers/elevators and
> does it make any major difference.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Where do you find that info ??
----- Original Message -----
From: <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2000 4:25 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Antennas
>
> Big Lar,
>
> Quick look on 'net shows we both are correct! RG-8 with foam dielectric
> has VF of .78
>
> RG-8 with solid poly dielectric has VF of .66.
>
> bn
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Benson" <jimben(at)clear.lakes.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Recharging double A batteries |
Dear Gary: I have been using the Ray-O-Vac Renewal AA batteries in quite a
few applications with great success. They need a special charger just for
those batteries. They do hold their charge while just sitting around. The
thing I found is that they do like to be charged regularly and don't let
them get completely run down or they just don't charge back up again to
full capacity.
Jim Benson, Glencoe MN Mark III, M3-224 - 53 hours
> What is the best way to go for recharging double A batteries?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder spring attach point |
>
> John C.
> The web link below is a picture of my rudder spring attach point. Ignore
the
> half-round file wedged between the bottom pedals and the short tube, I
used
> it to temporally hold the pedals upright. My FireStar II was assigned
serial
> number FS-650 by the old Kolb, it's not the same as the number stamped on
the
> rear, engine mount tube, cage. If your serial number is 1162 it should
have
> the short tube welded on, unless, like John J. said, someone forgot to
weld
> it on. The 3/8X.058X8.75 alum. tube slides into the, welded on, short
tube
> then just hook the springs to the end of the alum. tube. The earlier
> FireStars didn't have the welded on short tube.
>
> http://members.aol.com/willuribe/149.jpg
Hello Gang,
First of all thanks for the tremendous response on the rudder spring
question. It is clear to me now how it is supposed to attach. The serial
number that I refer to and the only one I have #1162 is stamped on the aft
end of the tube that the motor supports are welded to. Either I have the
earlier version that didn't have the socket welded on or it or it was
forgotten. I bought the plane from the original owner still wrapped in the
factory cartons. The invoices with the kit stated that it was purchased in
October 1994. The round tube that the rudder pedals are welded to that
serves as a bearing meet in the middle on my plane. I see and understand
that the bearing surface inboard of the two verticals on the rudder pedals
is normally removed and a short steel tube is welded to the frame between
the rudder pedals and a aluminum tube slips in it for the springs to attach
to. I will probably just attach the springs to the pitot tube support as
mentioned earlier and as some of the list members stated that they do. Once
again thanks for the help.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
>Hi Gang,
>Tried to reply to Gary's post a couple days ago about batteries and somehow
>sent it to the unsubscribe address and got a dirty reply from Matt Dralle
>(sorry Matt). Any way here it is.
>>
>>> I guess what I was really asking was about that in new charging system
>>that
>>> came out a year or so ago. That was a one that the new batteries and the
>>new
>>> chargers that were supposed to be so much more powerful and last longer
>>than
>>> the other rechargeables on the market. Do you know anything about these?
>>
>>
Hi Gary and Gang,
I think your referring to the batteries known as Duralites. I am also on
a Giant Scale Aerobatic list which covers big r/c airplanes. All of the top
competitors use this new battery system. Just from what I read the Duralites
last about twice as long as ni-cads or longer and are very light weight. The
down side is they are very expensive and require a different charger than
ni-cads. They receive a lot of praise from the people that use them. Here is
a link http://www.performanceprod.com/ for
the Duralites if your interested. They use to give info about using them in
cameras etc. on the old site they had but this site just refers to using
them in r/c aircraft. Good luck.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
The tail surface gap seals made a big difference on my FireFly. The first
time I tried to land after they were installed I kept ballooning up because I
was not used to the elevator being so effective.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL. FireFly, 447, IVO, full canopy, big wheels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
After I removed the air cooling cowl from my engine to do the two hour
retorque of the head nuts I apparently failed to adequately tighten one of
the self-tapping cowl screws. Of course it came off and went through the
prop. One blade has a nick about 14" from the hub where the gel coat is gone
and two or three of what looks like fiber strands are broken. The nick is ~
1/4" radius half circle on the back side of the leading edge. The damage is a
max of 1/16" deep. My hangar pals say patch it and go. I place a high value
on peace of mind so I am leaning towards replacing it. I am sure I'm not the
first one to have this problem and would like to hear from some others re
their experience. The prop is a two blade 66" IVO purchased in '97.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
I am no expert on prop repairs but I have seen a few pretty rough
looking props flying out there. You never know when the time will come
that it fractures. Talk to the factory or send it in for inspection.
Do the safe thing.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
How is this for Kolb support:
I emailed Norm Sat afternoon about a measurement on the Mark IIIXtra. I got
the answer back on Sunday morning! I also want to send Norm's explanation
and clarification of our wing folding discussion.
I had posted:
"I talked to Norm at a local fly-in two weeks ago and he said that Kolb does
not fold their Mark III, but they remove the wings to trailer it. That
tells me something."
Norm replied:
"I would like to talk a little bit about folding the
wings. On the Kolb list you said that I had stated that
we take the wings off to trailer the planes to shows. This
led you to consider leaving the wings on the plane all the
time too. This probably should be considered in context. If
I had the plane at home, (and I will have my FireStar), and
wanted to save space, I would fold the wings between
flights, (and I will). But moving 5 airplanes and all
the equipment for airshows across the country is a different
story. This is where we remove the wings and put them
in wing racks in the trailers. The reason I brought that
up is, (if I remember correctly), you asked how fast
the wings can be folded. I was trying to say I could not
fold them fast due to lack of practice.
There are folks who fold the wings every time they
fly. They have a better idea of realistic times for
wing folding.
Still, the best option is the one I think you
are looking at now. Leaving the wings on all the time will
no doubt let you fly more."
Norm Labhart
President,CEO
The New Kolb Aircraft Co.
norm(at)tnkolbaircraft.com
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Coax cables VF |
Biglar,
Went to yahoo, coaxial cables, then saw abt 4 citations. Used one for
some mfr. Cobbed data from him. Didn't bookmark, but it must be easy if
I did it!
bn
http://members.xoom.ronoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
Can anyone tell me what to use to glue the velcro to the lexan gap seal and
to the wing. I tried just putting it on with the adhesive that is on the
velcro but when it heats up it won't hold. Thanks Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Recharable batteries |
Hi Gang,
Tried to reply to Gary's post a couple days ago about batteries and the post
got lost somewhere.Any way here it is.
>>
>>> I guess what I was really asking was about that in new charging system
>>that
>>> came out a year or so ago. That was a one that the new batteries and the
>>new
>>> chargers that were supposed to be so much more powerful and last longer
>>than
>>> the other rechargeables on the market. Do you know anything about these?
>>
>>
Hi Gary and Gang,
I think your referring to the batteries known as Duralites. I am also on
a Giant Scale Aerobatic list which covers big r/c airplanes. All of the top
competitors use this new battery system. Just from what I read the Duralites
last about twice as long as ni-cads or longer and are very light weight. The
down side is they are very expensive and require a different charger than
ni-cads. They receive a lot of praise from the people that use them. Here is
a link http://www.performanceprod.com/ for the Duralites if your interested.
They use to give info about using them in cameras etc. on the old site they
had but this site just refers to using them in r/c aircraft. Good luck.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder spring attach point |
> John C.
> The web link below is a picture of my rudder spring attach point. Ignore
>the half-round file wedged between the bottom pedals and the short tube, I
>used it to temporally hold the pedals upright. My FireStar II was assigned
>serial number FS-650 by the old Kolb, it's not the same as the number
stamped >on the rear, engine mount tube, cage. If your serial number is
1162 it should
>have the short tube welded on, unless, like John J. said, someone forgot to
>weld it on. The 3/8X.058X8.75 alum. tube slides into the, welded on, short
>tube then just hook the springs to the end of the alum. tube. The earlier
> FireStars didn't have the welded on short tube.
>
> http://members.aol.com/willuribe/149.jpg
Hello Gang,
First of all thanks for the tremendous response on the rudder spring
question. It is clear to me now how it is supposed to attach. The serial
number that I refer to and the only one I have #1162 is stamped on the aft
end of the tube that the motor supports are welded to. Either I have the
earlier version that didn't have the socket welded on or it or it was
forgotten. I bought the plane from the original owner still wrapped in the
factory cartons. The invoices with the kit stated that it was purchased in
October 1994. The round tube that the rudder pedals are welded to that
serves as a bearing meet in the middle on my plane. I see and understand
that the bearing surface inboard of the two verticals on the rudder pedals
is normally removed and a short steel tube is welded to the frame between
the rudder pedals and a aluminum tube slips in it for the springs to attach
to. I will probably just attach the springs to the pitot tube support as
mentioned earlier and as some of the list members stated that they do. Once
again thanks for the help.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
________________________________________________________________________________
NEED INFORMATION ON MAKING A TRIM TAB FOR THE ELEVATOR CONTROL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Randy, Are you using the white velcro or the black?The white stuff has been
good for over a year for me.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 06/04/2000 3:56:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
yamaha(at)cvn.net writes:
<< Can anyone tell me what to use to glue the velcro to the lexan gap seal and
to the wing. I tried just putting it on with the adhesive that is on the
velcro but when it heats up it won't hold. Thanks Randy >>
Randy and others,
Its really odd the way things work. I used the self sticking velcro (Velcro
brand) and its been on there for 5 years. In fact, I mistakenly got one
piece on the stits polytone a little crooked and couldn't get it to come off,
so left it that way. And it also seems to be sticking to the lexan just as
well.
Make sure there is no wax or silicon on the surface. You might try using
polytack as it seems to be a pretty good glue.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
What is the space between your horizontal stab. and your elevators on a
Firestar.
The space that a gap seal would cover up? Anybody.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: oil out the intake filter .... |
Too rich might do it, but there is another possibility: if the engine is
lugging and having trouble pulling a given load, the intake charge will
pulse back out the carburetor and really oil up the air filter. If you ever
think you have too much prop on an engine, (or too much carburetion) and it
won't rev up, and sounds like it is bogging down somewhere around 4000-5000
RPM, pull the filter off, and see what happens. Sometimes it will go ahead
and rev up, but if not, there will probably be a fog coming back out the
carb for 6-8" at the point in the RPM band when it really starts to bog
down. You can imagine how that will really oil up a filter. Of course, it
is also rinsing it out with gas, and all the crud that was in the filter is
now eroding away your rings...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>
> fellow listers,
> "after" flying this weekend my buddy noticed oil dripping out of his
>intake filter and exhaust pipe on his 503 firestar. there is no auto lube.
>pulled the plugs and they were black so its obviously running a little rich.
>solving the running rich problem involves simply changing the jets. does
>anyone have any comments about the dripping from the air filter ?
>................. tim
________________________________________________________________________________
NEEDD SIZES FOR ELEVATOR TRIM TAB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Re: bifold doors, etc |
Jim, on your bifold doors, do they have tracks on them similar to closet
doors? If so, on the top or bottom or both? Do they have rollers or
wheels? I have noticed that commercial hangers have bifold doors that
break
horizontally and fold up to the top. From your description, yours
obviously
break vertically. If I have a steel beam welded, would it be practical to
incorporate some type of door track hardware on the bottom of the beam?
Clay,
Yes, they break vertically. The outer ones are hinged to the front poles
of the building (four 4 1/2" heavy hinges). These outer dorrs also contain
a threaded-rod (adjustable) diagonal which allows them to be squared-up
after hanging. The outer door carries all the load. The inner doors are
each hinged to the outer doors, just like your household closet bifold.
There is only a top track, standard roller track as supplied for farm pole
buildings, one continuous track all the length of the header beam. The
stock farm roller was welded to a 1/2" x 6" bolt. The bolt was put thru a
hole in the inner door, at the tip, to help hold it up a little, control
the motion. etc. A compression spring was added to the bolt under the door
frame before nutting the bolt, to allow some room for tolerances. The bolt
is allowed to turn in the hole as the door opens, and the roller follows
the track. Limiters were added last, on the outside of the doors, so they
wouldn't go inward upon closing. Latches are 1" square tube sliding thru
larger tubes, four downward into concrete in the ground, two upward at the
splices between the inner and outer doors, latching to the beam.
I have seen the horizontal-breaking doors and like them, but could not
imagine how to do one without electrical power to raise it ( I have no
electrical power at my strip). As for adding the doortrack hardware to
the beam during manufacture, maybe drill some holes, but stop there until
it is all standing so you can see where you want the track to be. The
desired location is right above the door frames (when they are closed).
The very last thing you do after the door frames are hung and working
well, is to screw on the sheet steel siding panels.
My bifolds may not be a good choice for a building you want to open and
close everyday, in possibly very windy days. They could be damaged by high
winds, if open. I have added short posts with old ATV tire bumpers to act
as limiters but it is something to think about. Luckily, we like to fly on
days that have low winds, and the doors work just fine below 20 mph winds.
So you might say the designer has placed a VNE of 25 mph on these doors.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drag strut bolt |
Wow.
I got scared just reading this.
Wondering if there were any changes in the flight characteristics before
discovering the problem. I'ld want to take a good look at what may have been
absorbing the load...inboard rib damage, bent push rods or anything else in
the linkages.
Don't mean to sound snotty, but this is one reason I wanted to build myself
so I 'ld have a complete understanding of the construction & design etc...
I'm very glad things turned out the way they did. God was watching over you.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Date: Monday, May 29, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: drag strut bolt
>
>Hi all.
>
>I made a scary realization yesterday on my MK III. I was doing a
preflight,
>getting ready to take my son's girlfriends mother for a ride, when I notice
>some unpainted metal showing on the rear drag strut fitting where it
>attaches to the wing. My son grabbed the end of the wing and pushed back
>and the rear drag strut slid into the wing. He pushed forward on the wing
>and the drag strut slid out. Next we tried the same thing on the other
>wing. Same thing. The drag strut would slide in and out of the wing.
>Needless to say I didn't go flying. Instead, I went home and took a look
at
>the blue prints and figured that the bolt that holds the drag strut in was
>never installed. I took the wings off today, cut the fabric in the end of
>the wing and sure enough. I have 180+ hours on this thing with two bolts
>missing. This was a quick build kit built by the Old Kolb Co. In fact my
>quick build kit was on display at Sun-and-Fun in 97. I remember checking
>the wings before I covered them, noticing the rivets in the drag strut
>assuming that is what held everything together. I must have missed the two
>bolts and the powder coating must have held things together during
assembly,
>during painting and during many wing foldings in the first couple of
months.
>I guess the powder coating finally let go. Also, since the quick build
kits
>are factory rigged I never dreamed that any wing attachment point could be
>left unfinished. I remember Dennis Souder telling me to make sure the big
>bolt through the main spar was installed. He told me of a fellow that flew
>for a little while without the bolt and only a few pop rivets. Fortunately
>for me, the wings never moved far enough forward for the strut fittings to
>come completely out, and maybe the wings can't move that far forward. I'm
>glad I didn't find out. I know this seems pretty ignorant on my part but
>you may want to check your plane on your next pre flight.
>
>Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
What glue is used to make Velcro stick probably depends on what finish
process was used on the plane. I used Stits to finish my plane and Polytack
did very well. Here's a tip you may want to consider. The most common failure
of the glue bond in this application is at the edges of both ends of the
Velcro. I used a soldering iron to burn (eliminate) the loops along those
edges leaving a 1/4" "bald" strip of Velcro base at the ends. When you pull
the gap cover off the first loops to be disengaged don't lift the end because
they are 1/4" back from the edge of the glued-on Velcro base. It worked for
me.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly, 447, IVO, full canopy, big wheels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gtalexander(at)att.net.by.mtiwmhc25.worldnet.att.net.with.SMTP (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 |
201-229-119-122)
A great example of a non-Kolb specific item that is can
be of great benefit to most readers. Thanks Duane!
George Alexander
Quick flyer-Looking for a Kolb.
>
> What glue is used to make Velcro stick probably depends on what finish
> process was used on the plane. I used Stits to finish my plane and Polytack
> did very well. Here's a tip you may want to consider. The most common failure
> of the glue bond in this application is at the edges of both ends of the
> Velcro. I used a soldering iron to burn (eliminate) the loops along those
> edges leaving a 1/4" "bald" strip of Velcro base at the ends. When you pull
> the gap cover off the first loops to be disengaged don't lift the end because
> they are 1/4" back from the edge of the glued-on Velcro base. It worked for
> me.
> Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly, 447, IVO, full canopy, big wheels
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Either/Starting Fluid |
In a message dated 00-06-02 10:53:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ul15rhb(at)juno.com writes:
<< I believe the resistor plug cap should be 5K ohms which is 5000 ohms.
>>
I stand corrected. Section 7.11 of the 582 repair manual says that the
resistance value of the standard plugs should be between 4.5 and 5.5 K ohms.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "martin P" <tonibec(at)hotmail.com> |
There is no question. Replace it!
Martin.
the self-tapping cowl screws. Of course it came off and went through the
prop. One blade has a nick about 14" from the hub where the gel coat is
gone
and two or three of what looks like fiber strands are broken. The nick
is ~
1/4" radius half circle on the back side of the leading edge. The damage
is a
max of 1/16" deep.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
If anyone out there has a lke-new standard Ivo for a Kolb I would be very
interested in buying it for use while mine is being repaired at the factory.
Will consider other carbon fiber props if I can't get an Ivo.
Duane the plane, FireFly, 447, Grounded in Tallahassee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> |
| Subject: | Re: drag strut bolt |
>
>Wow.
>
>I got scared just reading this I'm very glad things turned out the way
>they did. God was watching over you.
I don't want to start a flame war or get off topic on the list but
could we leave out our religious convictions and beliefs? Why did your god
allow the bolts to be missing in the first place? Maybe your god was trying
to kill him but didn't succeed. A discussion like this could go on forever
and no solution is possible. It is also definitely not Kolb related.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bifold doors, etc |
>
>
>Jim, on your bifold doors, do they have tracks on them similar to closet
>doors? If so, on the top or bottom or both? Do they have rollers or
>wheels? I have noticed that commercial hangers have bifold doors that
>break
>horizontally and fold up to the top. From your description, yours
>obviously
>break vertically. If I have a steel beam welded, would it be practical to
>incorporate some type of door track hardware on the bottom of the beam?
>
>Clay,
>Yes, they break vertically. The outer ones are hinged to the front poles
>of the building (four 4 1/2" heavy hinges).
I did something similar. I used 4 old garage doors (2 0n the right and
2 on the left) held together with barn door hinges. I do not have a top
track. This allows me to fold the doors straight out from the hanger rather
than 90* to the door opening. I did have to reenforce the doors a bit and
rerivet some of the old bracing on tighter but it has been working fine for
years. I also put a bottom pin in to support the doors from being blown in
or out during a storm. best of all it was cheap. just like me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Chris
There are no changes in the way the plane fly's after repair. The only
thing I noticed that was related was a little problem with the gap seal
between the wings. I installed two metal screws in the leading edge of the
gap seal into the leading edge of the wing tube to insure the gap seal
remained centered. I was unable to keep both screws in because of the fore
and aft movement of the wings. Since the repair that problem is corrected.
It seems the rear attachments were never close to coming out. I tried
pushing the wing forward and it seemed like something needed to bend long
before the drag strut came out of the tube. I have put this plane through
high + G's and some - G's. Like someone else said, it's probably good I
didn't fly backwards or do a tail slide. I'm still thankful however, for my
God's protection! Furthermore, my Wife has been healed from cancer and my
one Son from Crohns disease in the last six months. God is good.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris Sudlow
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: drag strut bolt
Wow.
I got scared just reading this.
Wondering if there were any changes in the flight characteristics before
discovering the problem. I'ld want to take a good look at what may have been
absorbing the load...inboard rib damage, bent push rods or anything else in
the linkages.
Don't mean to sound snotty, but this is one reason I wanted to build myself
so I 'ld have a complete understanding of the construction & design etc...
I'm very glad things turned out the way they did. God was watching over you.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Date: Monday, May 29, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: drag strut bolt
>
>Hi all.
>
>I made a scary realization yesterday on my MK III. I was doing a
preflight,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine identity |
>
>Greetings
>Can anyone identify the engine on the following pictures?
I may be wrong but it could be a Lloyd. They used to be advertised a
lot back in the heydays of the 80's. I don't think any production plane
ever used them. I do remember they had electric start which is why I will
hazard the guess it is a Lloyd. I think J Bird may have information on them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Woody
I replied to the e-mail before I read yours and I added a little more of my
religious convictions. Sorry. I certainly didn't want to offend you or
anyone else on this list. Some of us live and speak this way without a
second thought, just as others would curse without a second thought. Your
right, this discussion could go on forever, and that is a long time, and at
some point we won't even need e-mail to continue it, and we probably won't
be flying Kolb's. I hope you and I are at the same place at that time! I
remain grateful!
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Woody
Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: drag strut bolt
>
>Wow.
>
>I got scared just reading this I'm very glad things turned out the way
>they did. God was watching over you.
I don't want to start a flame war or get off topic on the list but
could we leave out our religious convictions and beliefs? Why did your god
allow the bolts to be missing in the first place? Maybe your god was trying
to kill him but didn't succeed. A discussion like this could go on forever
and no solution is possible. It is also definitely not Kolb related.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> |
Thanks for the tip. One other thing what do you use to release the polytack
when you need to replace the velcro. Thanks again and as far as I'm
concerned this is what this list is all about getting good advise when you
have a question about your Kolb
-----Original Message-----
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com <MitchMnD(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, June 05, 2000 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: gap seal
>
>What glue is used to make Velcro stick probably depends on what finish
>process was used on the plane. I used Stits to finish my plane and Polytack
>did very well. Here's a tip you may want to consider. The most common
failure
>of the glue bond in this application is at the edges of both ends of the
>Velcro. I used a soldering iron to burn (eliminate) the loops along those
>edges leaving a 1/4" "bald" strip of Velcro base at the ends. When you pull
>the gap cover off the first loops to be disengaged don't lift the end
because
>they are 1/4" back from the edge of the glued-on Velcro base. It worked for
>me.
>Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly, 447, IVO, full canopy, big
wheels
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder spring attach point |
Well since no one else has mentioned this. The builder of my plane (not me)
used some sort of springy wire for the rudder pedal springs. Looks like it
was a coat hanger. Well the wire wraps around the tube that the pedals ride
on a couple times. Then one end is straight about 3 inches long and rests on
the floor board. The other end is about 3 inches long and has a little bend
in the end to go into a hold in the side of the pedal. This part is also
secured with a hose clamp. It is plenty springy enough to hold the pedals
back and has the additional benefit of having nothing attached to the node
cone. My nose cone comes off without the rudder pedals or instrument panel
having to be touched. I could even remove it and go flying.
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 377
Schenectady, NY
http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar/
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2000 12:20 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rudder spring attach point
>
>
> >
> > John C.
> > The web link below is a picture of my rudder spring attach point.
Ignore
> the
> > half-round file wedged between the bottom pedals and the short tube, I
> used
> > it to temporally hold the pedals upright. My FireStar II was assigned
> serial
> > number FS-650 by the old Kolb, it's not the same as the number stamped
on
> the
> > rear, engine mount tube, cage. If your serial number is 1162 it should
> have
> > the short tube welded on, unless, like John J. said, someone forgot to
> weld
> > it on. The 3/8X.058X8.75 alum. tube slides into the, welded on, short
> tube
> > then just hook the springs to the end of the alum. tube. The earlier
> > FireStars didn't have the welded on short tube.
> >
> > http://members.aol.com/willuribe/149.jpg
>
>
> Hello Gang,
> First of all thanks for the tremendous response on the rudder spring
> question. It is clear to me now how it is supposed to attach. The serial
> number that I refer to and the only one I have #1162 is stamped on the aft
> end of the tube that the motor supports are welded to. Either I have the
> earlier version that didn't have the socket welded on or it or it was
> forgotten. I bought the plane from the original owner still wrapped in the
> factory cartons. The invoices with the kit stated that it was purchased in
> October 1994. The round tube that the rudder pedals are welded to that
> serves as a bearing meet in the middle on my plane. I see and understand
> that the bearing surface inboard of the two verticals on the rudder pedals
> is normally removed and a short steel tube is welded to the frame between
> the rudder pedals and a aluminum tube slips in it for the springs to
attach
> to. I will probably just attach the springs to the pitot tube support as
> mentioned earlier and as some of the list members stated that they do.
Once
> again thanks for the help.
>
>
> Later,
> John Cooley
> Building FS II #1162
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
Just a tip. I cover my cowl screws with a dab of blue silicone sealant
covering the head and part of the cowl. This is not the prettiest thing but
will definitely keep a screw from falling out.
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 377
Schenectady, NY
http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar/
----- Original Message -----
From: <MitchMnD(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2000 10:23 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Prop Ding
>
> After I removed the air cooling cowl from my engine to do the two hour
> retorque of the head nuts I apparently failed to adequately tighten one of
> the self-tapping cowl screws. Of course it came off and went through the
> prop. One blade has a nick about 14" from the hub where the gel coat is
gone
> and two or three of what looks like fiber strands are broken. The nick is
~
> 1/4" radius half circle on the back side of the leading edge. The damage
is a
> max of 1/16" deep. My hangar pals say patch it and go. I place a high
value
> on peace of mind so I am leaning towards replacing it. I am sure I'm not
the
> first one to have this problem and would like to hear from some others re
> their experience. The prop is a two blade 66" IVO purchased in '97.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drag strut bolt |
Terry,
I am deeply impressed with your wisdom & gentleness.
Woody,
Since you asked the question about separating our religious beliefs from
the content of this list, I thought I would offer a response. You can hit
"delete" now if you wish.
One day in 1973 I told God that I no longer believed he existed, that he
was merely a phenomenon of social evolution & a crutch for the weak. Within
minutes after that declaration of my new religious belief or unbelief, a
miraculous event occurred that unequivocally proofed to me that God not only
existed but that he had a personal interest in my life. Since that day I try
very hard not to separate God from my daily actions or decisions. Call me
collect, 352-622-4064, & I'll share the story with you. As far as how this is
related to Kolbs & flying, I'll make the point as quickly as I can.
For many of us, flying is a profoundly religious experience. I expect it
is for you as well, but you interpret it differently. It is a fact that my joy
of flying Kolbs is much greater when I intentionally share it with God &
acknowledge his hand in creating the laws of physics & the beauty of this
planet. I thank him for gifting his servants Homer & Dennis with the ability
to create & economically provide these unique aircraft that we enjoy. For some
of us God & religion are inseparatable from Kolbs & flying.
Many, if not most, of the people on this list are God fearing. Probably,
the same is true for the staff at New Kolb. If you meant what you said about
not wanting to start a flame war, may I suggest that you refrain from using
insulting content in your letters on this list? I do not presume to know your
intentions, but the words you chose (suggesting that our God is capable of
doing evil) is inflammatory to the God fearing people on this list. I don't
know you Woody, but I'd bet it would be good! Give me a call & I'll tell you
the rest of the story. ...Richard Swiderski
Terry wrote:
>
> Woody
>
> I replied to the e-mail before I read yours and I added a little more of my
> religious convictions. Sorry. I certainly didn't want to offend you or
> anyone else on this list. Some of us live and speak this way without a
> second thought, just as others would curse without a second thought. Your
> right, this discussion could go on forever, and that is a long time, and at
> some point we won't even need e-mail to continue it, and we probably won't
> be flying Kolb's. I hope you and I are at the same place at that time! I
> remain grateful!
>
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Woody
> Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 4:12 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: drag strut bolt
>
>
> >
> >Wow.
> >
> >I got scared just reading this I'm very glad things turned out the way
> >they did. God was watching over you.
> I don't want to start a flame war or get off topic on the list but
> could we leave out our religious convictions and beliefs? Why did your god
> allow the bolts to be missing in the first place? Maybe your god was trying
> to kill him but didn't succeed. A discussion like this could go on forever
> and no solution is possible. It is also definitely not Kolb related.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bifold doors, etc |
We have some people here using vertical accordion fold doors. Each has a
frame with black fiberglass panels on them. They move easy and let some
light in when closed. Much less expensive than a bi-fold.
>
>
>Jim, on your bifold doors, do they have tracks on them similar to closet
>doors? If so, on the top or bottom or both? Do they have rollers or
>wheels? I have noticed that commercial hangers have bifold doors that
>break
>horizontally and fold up to the top. From your description, yours
>obviously
>break vertically. If I have a steel beam welded, would it be practical to
>incorporate some type of door track hardware on the bottom of the beam?
>
>Clay,
>Yes, they break vertically. The outer ones are hinged to the front poles
>of the building (four 4 1/2" heavy hinges). These outer dorrs also contain
>a threaded-rod (adjustable) diagonal which allows them to be squared-up
>after hanging. The outer door carries all the load. The inner doors are
>each hinged to the outer doors, just like your household closet bifold.
>There is only a top track, standard roller track as supplied for farm pole
>buildings, one continuous track all the length of the header beam. The
>stock farm roller was welded to a 1/2" x 6" bolt. The bolt was put thru a
>hole in the inner door, at the tip, to help hold it up a little, control
>the motion. etc. A compression spring was added to the bolt under the door
>frame before nutting the bolt, to allow some room for tolerances. The bolt
>is allowed to turn in the hole as the door opens, and the roller follows
>the track. Limiters were added last, on the outside of the doors, so they
>wouldn't go inward upon closing. Latches are 1" square tube sliding thru
>larger tubes, four downward into concrete in the ground, two upward at the
>splices between the inner and outer doors, latching to the beam.
>I have seen the horizontal-breaking doors and like them, but could not
>imagine how to do one without electrical power to raise it ( I have no
>electrical power at my strip). As for adding the doortrack hardware to
>the beam during manufacture, maybe drill some holes, but stop there until
>it is all standing so you can see where you want the track to be. The
>desired location is right above the door frames (when they are closed).
> The very last thing you do after the door frames are hung and working
>well, is to screw on the sheet steel siding panels.
>My bifolds may not be a good choice for a building you want to open and
>close everyday, in possibly very windy days. They could be damaged by high
>winds, if open. I have added short posts with old ATV tire bumpers to act
>as limiters but it is something to think about. Luckily, we like to fly on
>days that have low winds, and the doors work just fine below 20 mph winds.
>So you might say the designer has placed a VNE of 25 mph on these doors.
>Jim G
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
MitchMnD(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> What glue is used to make Velcro stick probably depends on what finish
> process was used on the plane. I used Stits to finish my plane and Polytack
> did very well. Here's a tip you may want to consider. The most common failure
> of the glue bond in this application is at the edges of both ends of the
> Velcro. I used a soldering iron to burn (eliminate) the loops along those
> edges leaving a 1/4" "bald" strip of Velcro base at the ends. When you pull
> the gap cover off the first loops to be disengaged don't lift the end because
> they are 1/4" back from the edge of the glued-on Velcro base. It worked for
> me.
> Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL
Very intuitive thinking! At our grocery store the paper bags have paper
handles that at stuck on the bag sides with an adhesive. Frequently the
bag tears, right at the edge of the handle-bag junction. Classical case
of stress risers. Have told management several times that if their bag
manufacturer would leave about a half inch of the handle with no
adhesive, it would solve the problem, but they won't believe it.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: drag strut bolt |
In a message dated 6/5/00 8:59:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net writes:
<< Woody
I replied to the e-mail before I read yours and I added a little more of my
religious convictions. Sorry. I certainly didn't want to offend you or
anyone else on this list. Some of us live and speak this way without a
second thought, just as others would curse without a second thought. Your
right, this discussion could go on forever, and that is a long time, and at
some point we won't even need e-mail to continue it, and we probably won't
be flying Kolb's. I hope you and I are at the same place at that time! I
remain grateful!
Terry >>
Terry...very well said..........GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> |
>
>MitchMnD(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
>
> > did very well. Here's a tip you may want to consider. The most common
> failure
> > of the glue bond in this application is at the edges of both ends of the
> > Velcro.
My dear old mother taught me that if you are going to put a patch on
something don't let it have square corners. The corners will always lift
off first. I always round off the corners before I apply a patch of any
kind. I imagine the same philosophy would work when trying to lay down the
ends of the Velcro.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
"kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | ignition switch for 912 |
I have a simple question that has been bugging me. I'm
planning to install
a 912 in my Mark III, but I'm not real familiar with hooking
one up (yet).
But I understand it comes with electronic ignition - so how
is everyone
using the standard keyed ignition L-R-Both-Start switch,
which is open to
leave mags on, and connects L and R to ground to turn off
the ignition?
Doesn't the electronic ignition on the 912 need +voltage to
work? I know
I'm missing something, somebody take pity and give me a
clue. TIA
i ran the ignition switches to the motor with coax. i
ran the connector from the cdi to the center conductor to
the switch. which is open to run. then run the brade
of the coax from the switch back to the engine and grounded
it. that way the ignition wire is shielded in the
grounded brade of coax trying to eliminate the rf
noise. the cdi needs no external power. it gets
power from the coils in the engine which are seperate from
the lighting coils.
boyd if ????? reply
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 06/02/00 |
Re: VF for RG-58---same as RG-8, 78% using foam, 66% with solid poly
dielectric
bn
http://members.xoom.com/ronoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 06/04/00 |
Exhaust gas temps will tell you if you are rich or lean. Does it run OK? Have
you made any modifications to the exhaust system?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
> I need opinions on how far back from the leading edge of the wing
>to put my vg's. I have 12 vg's on each wing 15'' back now.
A good guess would be to put them just in front of the highest part of the
top of the wing when it is at its stall angle of attack, which will be
forward of the highest part of the top of the wing when it is level. the
idea is to have them far enough forward so they are in the high energy air
before the boundary layer grows, and certainly before the boundary layer
separates. another approach is to make bigger vgs and stick them back
farther. they need to be tall enough to reach the high velocity air out of
the boundary layer. smaller farther forward will probably preserve top end
better, but you never know until you try.
If people want to babble on and on I can delete it, but I think this forum
works best in the form of questions and answers, and tips and stories about
building and flying. I think it is great that some are more spiritually
motivated, but I dont quite see that we need to share it here. I am amused
that every request by someone to stay on topic generates about 50 off topic
responses. sort of like saying shhhhh at the theater... and now I've done
it to!
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Nicely said, Topher. There comes a limit. Big Lar.
> If people want to babble on and on I can delete it, but I think this forum
> works best in the form of questions and answers, and tips and stories
about
> building and flying. I think it is great that some are more spiritually
> motivated, but I dont quite see that we need to share it here. I am
amused
> that every request by someone to stay on topic generates about 50 off
topic
> responses. sort of like saying shhhhh at the theater... and now I've
done
> it to!
>
> Topher
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/6/00 11:33:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Tophera(at)centurytel.net writes:
<< > I need opinions on how far back from the leading edge of the wing
>to put my vg's. I have 12 vg's on each wing 15'' back now.
A good guess would be to put them just in front of the highest part of the
top of the wing when it is at its stall angle of attack, which will be
forward of the highest part of the top of the wing when it is level. the
idea is to have them far enough forward so they are in the high energy air
before the boundary layer grows, and certainly before the boundary layer.
separates.
Dell, Topher is right on. When I read your post I thought you had them too
far back; at or near stall with the high angle of attack the 'wind' won't
touch the VG's, but at cruise-it does,hence the increase in cruise speed. My
VG's are 11" back from the leading edge on my Firestar; maybe someone can
tell you what percentage of chord that is & you put yours on at same %
[probably about 12-13"]. I may have put mine on a little far back; I'd like
to see someone try them at maybe 10" from LE.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630)
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 06/04/00 |
| From: | Pam & Scott Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
on 6/5/00 1:58 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server at kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com
wrote:
> From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Wing folding
>
>
> How is this for Kolb support:
>
> I emailed Norm Sat afternoon about a measurement on the Mark IIIXtra. I got
> the answer back on Sunday morning! I also want to send Norm's explanation
> and clarification of our wing folding discussion.
>
> I had posted:
>
> "I talked to Norm at a local fly-in two weeks ago and he said that Kolb does
> not fold their Mark III, but they remove the wings to trailer it. That
> tells me something."
>
> Norm replied:
>
> "I would like to talk a little bit about folding the
> wings. On the Kolb list you said that I had stated that
> we take the wings off to trailer the planes to shows. This
> led you to consider leaving the wings on the plane all the
> time too. This probably should be considered in context. If
> I had the plane at home, (and I will have my FireStar), and
> wanted to save space, I would fold the wings between
> flights, (and I will). But moving 5 airplanes and all
> the equipment for airshows across the country is a different
> story. This is where we remove the wings and put them
> in wing racks in the trailers. The reason I brought that
> up is, (if I remember correctly), you asked how fast
> the wings can be folded. I was trying to say I could not
> fold them fast due to lack of practice.
> There are folks who fold the wings every time they
> fly. They have a better idea of realistic times for
> wing folding.
> Still, the best option is the one I think you
> are looking at now. Leaving the wings on all the time will
> no doubt let you fly more."
>
> Norm Labhart
> President,CEO
> The New Kolb Aircraft Co.
> norm(at)tnkolbaircraft.com
>
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drag strut bolt |
Good Morning Listers,
I got in late last night as I spent all day yesterday in the hospital with my wife
of 24 years who just had surgery on the disks in her neck. I thank God all went
perfectly. I had lots of time to think about what's really important in life...
Anyway, found several requests in my email box & on my answering machine to hear
the rest of my story. As it might not be appropriate to post it on this content
specific list, would anyone be willing to offer me a spot on your personal web
page? I could temporarily list it for those interested. It would be an honor
for
me to share it. I will be sitting in the hospital a lot & will use the time to
put
it to pen. ...Richard S
Richard Swiderski wrote:
> snip>.... One day in 1973 I told God that I no longer believed he existed,
> that he
> was merely a phenomenon of social evolution & a crutch for the weak. Within
> minutes after that declaration of my new religious belief or unbelief, a
> miraculous event occurred that unequivocally proofed to me that God not only
> existed but that he had a personal interest in my life. Since that day I try
> very hard not to separate God from my daily actions or decisions. Call me
> collect, 352-622-4064, & I'll share the story with you. As far as how this is
> related to Kolbs & flying, I'll make the point as quickly as I can.......
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I have an opportunity to pick up a 20 amp hour battery for a very low price.
It seemed very heavy, so I hung it from a digital scale, and came up with
19.8 lbs. Is this in line with batteries the rest of you are using ?? Is
this usable, or should I find something else ?? What would you recommend ??
Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 06/04/00 |
b young wrote:
>
>
> any comments about the dripping from the air filter ?
>
> could be that the floatbowl needles and seats are leaking
> and alowing too much fuel in the carbs.
>
> boyd
Danny Tyre (Challenger II) had this problem with his DCDI 503 with the
single (2 carb) airfilter. It would drip fuel/oil which would end up
messing up the horizontal stabilizer. He put duct tape over the bottom
rear portion of the air filter. Started half way up the curved portion
and went about 3" forward on the bottom. Said this solved the problem.
Danny's Challenger is the one pictured in the SnF summary in the latest
Experimenter.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/7/00 9:30:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< I have an opportunity to pick up a 20 amp hour battery for a very low
price.
It seemed very heavy, so I hung it from a digital scale, and came up with
19.8 lbs. Is this in line with batteries the rest of you are using ?? Is >>
A 17 amp hour battery weighs about 13 lbs. If you can stand the extra weight
you get some extra cranking capacity on those cold days. Also, 17 AH
batteries are about
$69.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
At one point someone was going to put a diagram and/or instructions for the VGs
on a web site were we could view and down load the information. Did that happen?
Did I miss the posting? Could someone get me this information. If you need
a web site to post this information I would be happy to put it on my site.
I keep hearing about these things and I couldn't stand it any longer.
Rick Neilsen
VW Powered MKIII 29.2Hrs
Do not arcive
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/7/00 11:05:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
neilsenr(at)state.mi.us writes:
<< Could someone get me this information. If you need a web site to post this
information I would be happy to put it on my site. >>
Richard, will send the VG plans to you as a bitmap; if you can't download,
let me know & I' ll mail it to you.
You are welcome to put it on your web-site; you may want to redraw or correct
some of the spelling first.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenneth Glen Aubrey" <kgaubrey(at)hotmail.com> |
Ok Firestar piolets lets here ya. I am about to fly my Firestar II for the
very first time and wanted to know what people are using for climb out
speeds and approach speeds. I was also wondering how close to 26 is the
stall speed going to be. I have a FSII with a 503 and it weighs 340 lbs
empty. I know the speeds for the quicksilver ( I am taking lessons in) are
going to be pretty far off.
Glen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
Ken. Rotation speed is around 45 mph for my ASI--I tend to hang out in
ground effect raising my speed then do a serious climb. Take off follows a
pretty predictable routine--I do not quickly open up the throttle--I take
about 2 seconds to go from idle to wide open. At the same time About 1
second is with the tail wheel on the ground then control stick froward to
raise the tail for 1 second and then rotate to get out of the long grass.
I fly out of a very bumpy and uneven strip so I have to try to miss the
gopher holes and hills and valleys.
Landing is also about 45 mph, maybe a little lower. This is my first year
flying so I tend to land a little faster than the very experienced pilots.
I probably use rpms as a guide more than mph. I am at 5000 rpm in the
pattern and down to 4000-4500 on base and 4000 or a little less on final.
I don not cut to idle on landing I keep about 3000 rpm to the ground--I
want to make sure I have a ready and willing engine incase I need to go
around.
[] Good Luck, Dale Seitzer--Original Firestar 447
Subject: Kolb-List: Flying Speeds
stall speed going to be. I have a FSII with a 503 and it weighs 340 lbs
empty. I know the speeds for the quicksilver ( I am taking lessons in) are
going to be pretty far off.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Speeds |
Glen,
Your stall speed should be about 33-35 mph. But your airspeed will probably
be wrong, so don't count on it. One solution is to do stalls before your first
landing. Then you will know when to expect a stall in your plane. Another
solution is to not let the rpm's get below 4,500 until you are within 5 feet of
the ground. Then pull the throttle back, don't let it come back up, and the
plane will land when it is ready. Also you could use both suggestions.
Good luck,
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J with a 503 Rotax
SE Wisconsin
Kenneth Glen Aubrey wrote:
>
> Ok Firestar piolets lets here ya. I am about to fly my Firestar II for the
> very first time and wanted to know what people are using for climb out
> speeds and approach speeds. I was also wondering how close to 26 is the
> stall speed going to be. I have a FSII with a 503 and it weighs 340 lbs
> empty. I know the speeds for the quicksilver ( I am taking lessons in) are
> going to be pretty far off.
>
> Glen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
Sounds very heavy to me! My 18 amp hour only weighs 6 pounds.
Dave Rains
FS II
El Paso
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 7:23 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Batteries
>
>I have an opportunity to pick up a 20 amp hour battery for a very low
price.
>It seemed very heavy, so I hung it from a digital scale, and came up with
>19.8 lbs. Is this in line with batteries the rest of you are using ?? Is
>this usable, or should I find something else ?? What would you recommend
??
> Big Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>
>In a message dated 6/7/00 9:30:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
><< I have an opportunity to pick up a 20 amp hour battery for a very low
>price.
> It seemed very heavy, so I hung it from a digital scale, and came up with
> 19.8 lbs. Is this in line with batteries the rest of you are using ??
Is >>
>A 17 amp hour battery weighs about 13 lbs. If you can stand the extra
weight
>you get some extra cranking capacity on those cold days. Also, 17 AH
>batteries are about
>$69.
>
>Howard Shackleford
>FS I
>SC
Check out hte following battery links . . . you can now get a 20 a.h.
battery from Panasonic that weighs the same as the older 17 a.y. devices.
Powersonic: PS-12180
http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html
Hawker: Check out the first 6 batteries on this page . . .
http://www.hepi.com/products/genesis/genprod.htm
Panasonic: particularly the LCRD1271P
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-rd
1217p.pdf
. . . and this new 20 a.h. battery in a 17 a.h. package . . .
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-x1
220p.pdf
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/chem/seal/seal.htm
Yuasa-Exide: Check out the NP18-12B at this site . . .
http://www.yuasa-exide.com/np-prod.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Speeds |
Glen, I fly a FireStar II with 503 that weighs in at 374 lbs. I'm at 4100
feet. My plane stalls at 28 mph. This figure has been checked both by a
certified air speed indicator and GPS. I don't believe your going to see 26
before it quits. Question: Can you tell the difference without looking at
your ASI? Your bigger problem is the transition from tri-gear to tail
dragger, not the air speed. I climb out at about 50 mph. I approach at 60
and land at about 45 to 50. (We have to deal with considerable X-wind here
in the desert). The important thing to remember is to maintain some power.
At risk of starting an opinion war, why do people want to land at near stall
speed?
Dave Rains
FS II
El Paso
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenneth Glen Aubrey <kgaubrey(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 12:49 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Flying Speeds
>
>Ok Firestar piolets lets here ya. I am about to fly my Firestar II for the
>very first time and wanted to know what people are using for climb out
>speeds and approach speeds. I was also wondering how close to 26 is the
>stall speed going to be. I have a FSII with a 503 and it weighs 340 lbs
>empty. I know the speeds for the quicksilver ( I am taking lessons in) are
>going to be pretty far off.
>
>
>Glen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Speeds |
Glen, You probably already know this but for the benefit of some of those
thinking about their first Kolb landing: don't depend on your ASI on a new
plane without knowing how accurate it is. The ASI can vary wildy depending on
how it is connected.The recommendation of doing stalls at altitude is a good
one. This will tell you what your stall speeds are according to your
particular ASI installation.
Good luck, I know it's great fun.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly, 447, dinged Ivo, full canopy,
big wheels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Speeds |
> At risk of starting an opinion war, why do people want to land at near stall
> speed?
> Dave Rains
Dave and Gang:
All of us do not have the luxury of a 3000 ft air strip. I
have been flying out of a 600 ft grass field (cow pasture),
now stretched to 750 ft when I want to brag about my big
airport, for the past 16 years. Did not have brakes in the
beginning. The slower I land the less wear and tear on
brakes and airframe. I enjoy attempting to fly into very
confined areas. If I have an engine out and have to put
Miss P'fer in a shoe box, I want to know that I can do it.
I ain't flying a 747. :-) I am just a slow lander. Got my
start landing slow in Army helicopters. Can't seem to break
the habit. There is a time for full stall landings,
especially in an emergency.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Speeds |
Dave, When you land three point, stalled, you have landed in the shortest
distance possible and it will stay landed. The trick is to stall it one inch
off the ground. The Kolb gear will handle stalls at a couple of feet but you
usually get an exciting bounce if it touches down on one gear more than the
other.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Well...................Hmmmmmm ! ! ! Guess I'll hafta break down and pay
for one. The good price on the 20 ah is "free." So, there's the
temptation. But, 14 lb. penalty is just too much. What brand and model is
your 6 lb./ 18 ah battery ?? How much did it cost ?? While on the
subject, has anyone heard any more about the new thin film batteries that
FlightStar was supposed to be introducing ?? Sounded good, but ya gotta be
able to get them. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Batteries
>
> Sounds very heavy to me! My 18 amp hour only weighs 6 pounds.
> Dave Rains
> FS II
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Don't waste time
> trusting
> an airspeed indicator unless you're one of those buck rogers "instrument
> pilots"
> ...we're talkin' Kolb here. Fly attitude (or the wing). An airplane in
> a level attitude
> will not stall. simple: just approach in a level attitude 'til close and
> ease back.
> I flew for years without a functional asi , damn spider always plugged
> my pitot,
> so I just quit cleaning it.
"Robert F. Bean"
Robert and Kolbers:
Reckon I have been wasting my time for the last few years,
trusting an ASI. Maybe I am one of those buck rogers
"instrument pilots."
Robert, I am extremely interested in hearing more on flying
attitude (or the wing). Especially that which pertains to
"an airplane in a level attitude will not stall." If what
you say is true, I can throw away my ASI. Damn, just bought
and installed a new one to fly to Alaska.
Always ready to learn something new, especially if it
pertains to flying.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Speeds |
Glen,
All of these comments are good. I once test flew a FireStar where the ASI
only went up to 30 mph. Once you learn how to fly, try to keep your head
"out-of-the-cockpit" because you may someday be without the ASI. I very
seldom look at the ASI close to touchdown because I'm concentrating on
the landing. As Dale S. and John J. mentioned, it's best to keep the
engine rpm higher on landings. If you have to abort, the engine will be
ready. Nothing worse than idling it on landing and having it "load up"
and choke right at the moment you need it. There are more 2-cycle pilots
that ended up in the hospital by not adhering to this simple rule. This
is not to say the engine cannot be idled on landing, but leave that until
you get the experience. Be sure to carry more airspeed as the winds
increase, so they don't try and tip you over with turbulence. 40 mph
(best glide speed) is a good approach speed for the experienced pilot, 50
mph for you.
While we are on the subject of first flights, please do be aware of IBC,
(Instant Birdman Complex). Over the years I have seen more first time
pilots wreck their planes because of IBC. What is it? It's the
adrenaline rush from the excitement of getting it ready for flight.
Experienced pilots suffer from this phenomenon too. Here's a typical
scenario: The would-be pilot gets ready for his first flight and had
planned to have an experienced pilot take his ship for the ride. He calls
the pilot up only to find out he cannot make it for reason or another.
The would-be pilot decides to take it out anyway for a taxi test (at
least that's what he says it is). He fires it up and the adrenaline gets
pumping. As he gets in, he really wants to take to the air and decides to
go ahead and taxi it around. One or two runs down the runway and before
you know it, he's up in the air and now the IBC has moved into its final
stages because he's committed. You can only guess what the outcome will
be and it usually is not good.
IBC for the experienced pilot: During preflight the pilot notices a
slight leak in the fuel line. It's a beautiful day and he has planned to
meet a buddy for a great day of flying. He says to himself, "Ah this
shouldn't be a problem and I'll fix when I get back". During the flight,
the leak has increased and now he is low on fuel. Our pilot decides to
make a forced landing and the pressure is on to find a suitable landing
site. The adrenaline begins to take affect and again we see what kind of
a mess IBC has got us into. We can only guess again at the outcome, but
it could spell disaster.
Do be careful out there .....
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>
> Glen, You probably already know this but for the benefit of some of
> those
> thinking about their first Kolb landing: don't depend on your ASI on
> a new
> plane without knowing how accurate it is. The ASI can vary wildy
> depending on
> how it is connected.The recommendation of doing stalls at altitude
> is a good
> one. This will tell you what your stall speeds are according to your
>
> particular ASI installation.
> Good luck, I know it's great fun.
> Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly, 447, dinged Ivo, full
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Larry and Gang:
Tom Pehigny, Flight Star, gave me two ATP batteries at Sun
and Fun to use for the Alaska flight. One is 5 AH and the
other is 13 AH. I have the 13 AH in the airplane now. It
spins the 912S right up, no hesitation. But the 912S has an
updated improved mechanical advantage over the start system
in my old 912. We will find out how good they are after I
get into cold country, especially above the Arctic Circle.
Here is where I had problems with a new 14 AH lead acid
battery. I could not overcome freezing temps. I am
thinking about taking the 5 AH bat as a back up, just in
case. Not being able to start the 912S because of
inadequate battery power is one of my biggest possible
problems, especially if I am alone in a sparsely populated
area. Then I will have to wait for a jump start from some
friendly passerby. :-) Can not take the risk of trying to
hand prop the 912S with 10.5 to 1 compression ration alone.
If I got hit with the prop, I would really be in a hurt.
Think I just talked myself into taking the little bat too.
I found a sealed lead acid bat at Wal*Mart, 20 AH. I was
going to use it until I got the bats from Tom. The Wal*Mart
bat was same size as the 14 AH Wal*Mart bats I ran with the
912. Maybe an inch or so wider and just a little heavier.
If I have to I would choose this battery next. Easy to
obtain at any Wal*Mart anywhere.
Take care,
john h
PS: Flying up to Etowah Bend Glider Port, Georgia, this
weekend, for the UL flyin. Etowah Bend is between Rome and
Cartersville, Ga. Ya'll come.
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
>
> Well...................Hmmmmmm ! ! ! Guess I'll hafta break down and pay
> for one. The good price on the 20 ah is "free." So, there's the
> temptation. But, 14 lb. penalty is just too much. What brand and model is
> your 6 lb./ 18 ah battery ?? How much did it cost ?? While on the
> subject, has anyone heard any more about the new thin film batteries that
> FlightStar was supposed to be introducing ?? Sounded good, but ya gotta be
> able to get them. Big Lar.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 4:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Batteries
>
> >
> > Sounds very heavy to me! My 18 amp hour only weighs 6 pounds.
> > Dave Rains
> > FS II
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Big Lar: Go with powersonic, they are tried and proven. Also will give
good service.
PS. the Glasair is still there..
RH MK3 912
>
> Well...................Hmmmmmm ! ! ! Guess I'll hafta break down and pay
> for one. The good price on the 20 ah is "free." So, there's the
> temptation. But, 14 lb. penalty is just too much. What brand and model
is
> your 6 lb./ 18 ah battery ?? How much did it cost ?? Big Lar
> > Sounds very heavy to me! My 18 amp hour only weighs 6 pounds.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Very interested to see that Dell's airspeed went up, apparently because he
had his VG's a little bit too far back. Topher (the professional
aerodynamics guy) says that for max effect at/near stall, they need to be
where they will be at the highest point of the airfoil as it is at max
angle of attack prior to flow separation.
My question: is it possible to have the best of both worlds?
What if you have the VG's a little further forward toward the tips, and a
little further back toward the center section, could this lower the stall
speed and improve the stall characteristics, and also pick up a tiny bit of
top end because of the VG's toward the middle of the wing? Or at least not
loose any top end?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ld Poops)
>
> I need opinions on how far back from the leading edge of the wing
>to put my vg's. I have 12 vg's on each wing 15'' back now. I made them
>from flashing and according to plan. They look good. I used a fiberglass
>outdoor carpet tape from ace hardware to keep them on. First I made sure
>that rubbing alcohol did indeed soften the stuff.Works great.
> On my first try with these things installed The thing I
>noticed most was a gain in top speed. I haven't flown for 8 mos, and I
>can't really remember much over 85. The thing went 95 and gaining when I
>ran out of courage[ no counter weights. ] Level as I could keep it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
a few months ago i bought some headsets on an auction
"pilot pa 11-60" and figured i was set. well they have
been so noisy that i could not communicate to others on the
ground. first i tried deadening the noise by building a
new mike cuff out of refrigeration line insulation ,
well that helped but was not as good as i had hoped for, i
could kind of communicate below 4000 rpm. so i called
the manufacture and told them of the problem with the high
noise and asked if they had a mike that was more suitable.
well the good people at pilot sent me 2 new mikes at no
cost. the old mikes were pa-7 and the new mikes are
pa-9. they have made all the diference in the world. i am
still using the flightcom intercom. the comment from the
people at the local fbo was "what did you do to get rid of
the background noise.?"
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
try it, the
> best you
> will get is a nice smooth descent in an average gen. aviation a/c
Robert and Gang:
I fly an average UL type aircraft. When I'm close enough to
the ground that I can not recover from a stall, I got one
eye cross checking my airspeed, especially if I am flying
near stall speed. The ASI is my insurance policy so I'll be
able to fly another day. Maybe one of these days if I keep
practicing, I will be able to fly comfortably without the
use of the ASI. Reckon I haven't advanced that far yet.
Too many other factors thrown in that confuse the mind into
thinking the aircraft is actually flying faster thru the air
than it is, i.e., downwind turns close to the ground. More
Kolb pilots have bit the dust thru this maneuver than any
other that I know of. A common mistake of not cross
checking airspeed, stalling with insufficient altitude to
recover. It ain't easy, in fact damn near impossible to
push the nose over from a level attitude at low level when
the aircraft is in a full stall.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> |
>
> I need opinions on how far back from the leading edge of the wing
>to put my vg's. I have 12 vg's on each wing 15'' back now.
I am not sure this is relevant to finding the right vg spot on a wing
but some guys were doing it for propellers. they would smear the prop with
dirty oil and then run it. The oil would leave a track where it lifted off
the prop. The vg bumps were installed at that point. Perhaps a modification
of this technique could be done to work on the wing?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
Kolbers and all,
>
An airplane in a level attitude will not stall.
>
One simple way to stall a wing in a level attitude is to let the airspeed
get too slow.
An airplane can be stalled at "any" attitude. And if for some reason I am
proven wrong it will mean I didn't miss that question on the UL test I took
7 years ago because I thought the same thing. I went up and tested for
myself. I couldn't find an attitude that it wouldn't stall. Given the right
conditions (not paying attention being one), it will stall.
Another thing, "never" trust the ASI on the first first flight. The first
flight will tell you if the ASI is working at all and it is on that first
flight you should establish where stall will be using that ASI. I use
colored aches on mine to help me stay in a safe AS range. The exact AS is
not as important as knowing where the needle is pointing on the ASI. I can
blank out all the numbers on my ASI and with the arches still fly safe. Try
this. You will see it will take a lot of the anxiety out of trying if you
fly by "Numbers". It will give you a little more freedom in the cockpit, and
freedom in this sport is going fast.
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/8/00 12:14:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
richard(at)BCChapel.org writes:
<< What if you have the VG's a little further forward toward the tips, and a
little further back toward the center section, could this lower the stall
speed and improve the stall characteristics, and also pick up a tiny bit of
top end because of the VG's toward the middle of the wing? Or at least not
loose any top end?
Richard Pike >>
What an interesting idea!! I bet that would work; also would probably be
like putting washout in the wings. I don't think you will loose any top end
though even if they are placed mainly for stall enhancement.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Dave, Can you tell me the brand and part number of this
battery?
Bob . . .
>>
>> Sounds very heavy to me! My 18 amp hour only weighs 6 pounds.
>> Dave Rains
>> FS II
>
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Group,
I fell very strongly about this. The most important thing in a Kolb
is AIRSPEED. Lack of airspeed destroys more Kolbs and injures more Kolb
pilots than any other thing. So don't be temped to believe that it isn't
necessary to pay attention to airspeed.
John Hauck expressed this very well whe he wrote,
"The ASI is my insurance policy so I'll be able to fly another day."
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
by smtp102.urscorp.com (Lotus Domino Release 5.0.2c (Intl))
with ESMTP id 2000060812031233":151514(at)matronics.com;
2000) at 06/08/2000 12:10:29 PM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on SMTP102/URSCorp(Release 5.0.2c (Intl)|2 February
2000) at 06/08/2000 12:03:12 PM,
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2000) at 06/08/2000 12:06:15 PM,
Serialize complete at 06/08/2000 12:06:15 PM
Hey guys.
People tell me my prop is really loud on take off. I have a 72-inch, three
blade warp drive on a Rotax 912 mounted on a Mrk III. I figured maybe my
prop tip speed is too high, but when I do the math (gear reduction 2.273,
and 5500 rpm), I get a maximum prop tip speed of "only" 518 mph. That isnt
high enough to cause cavitation is it? Any other ideas? Maybe check my
tach?
Thanks in advance
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
5383 Hollister Avenue, Suite 120
Santa Barbara, California 93111
805-683-0200
805-683-0201 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert E. Kearbey, D.D.S." <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
To the group
As a flight instructor for 30 years I have always told my students
"kearbey's three main rules of flying":maintain airspeed, maintain airspeed,
maintain airspeed. It is so critical not only to safety but to a stabilized
approach.
Bob cfii asmel 1582106
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Erich
Check your tach and confirm your engine RPM. I have a 912 with a 72 inch
warp also and when I first set it up I had the tach set wrong and turned the
prop a little too fast and it made a terrible noise.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com by smtp102.urscorp.com (Lotus Domino Release
5.0.2c (Intl)) with ESMTP id 2000060812031233
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: loud prop.
smtp102.urscorp.com (Lotus Domino Release 5.0.2c (Intl)) with ESMTP id
2000060812031233:151514 ;
Hey guys.
People tell me my prop is really loud on take off. I have a 72-inch, three
blade warp drive on a Rotax 912 mounted on a Mrk III. I figured maybe my
prop tip speed is too high, but when I do the math (gear reduction 2.273,
and 5500 rpm), I get a maximum prop tip speed of "only" 518 mph. That isnt
high enough to cause cavitation is it? Any other ideas? Maybe check my
tach?
Thanks in advance
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
5383 Hollister Avenue, Suite 120
Santa Barbara, California 93111
805-683-0200
805-683-0201 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/8/00 4:36:52 PM, jrjung(at)execpc.com writes:
<< I fell very strongly about this. The most important thing in a Kolb
is AIRSPEED. Lack of airspeed destroys more Kolbs and injures more Kolb
pilots than any other thing. So don't be temped to believe that it isn't
necessary to pay attention to airspeed.
>>
Concur John. With lots of instrument time behind me I find the airspeed
extremely important for safe flight. In my Mk-3 I found myself airborne on
two occasions with no airspeed (maintenance glitch) and used power setting
and the vertical speed indicator to land the airplane. Amazingly they were
both squeakers. (Go figure.) Once you have the airspeed calibrated as close
as you can you will know on every takeoff and climb if its working correctly.
You will also know best rate and best angle of climb and be able to nail down
an approach speed for existing conditions.
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
I agree. If your afraid to stall it on that first flight, at least go to a
safe altitude and slow down until your controls get mushy, note the AIS on
your AIS indicator in your plane, add at least 10 MPH, then never go below
that speed on your approach down to the runway. Don't try to make a short
field landing on your fist flight. You can hone your skills later. I am
assuming your are taking your test flight from a long runway so you will
have plenty of room plane like a Kolb.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert E.
Kearbey, D.D.S.
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 12:31 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: ASI
To the group
As a flight instructor for 30 years I have always told my students
"kearbey's three main rules of flying":maintain airspeed, maintain airspeed,
maintain airspeed. It is so critical not only to safety but to a stabilized
approach.
Bob cfii asmel 1582106
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: dripping from air cleaner ... |
too much fuel
> pressure to the carb. i know its far more than 3 lbs. a pressure regulator is
> probably the answer. ....................... tim
Tim:
Just a thought, for what it is worth. Well, maybe more than
one thought......... :-)
My own personal opinion, of course, but......if your
electric and engine driven fuel pumps were overpowering the
float needle in the carb bowls, there would be fuel flowing
out the vent tubes, plus enough fuel being consumed to flood
the engine. Facet pumps start at aprx 3 to 4.5 psi. I have
flown both Facet and engine driven pumps on my single carb
447, 582, 912 and 912S. Never had a problem with fuel
overpressure.
All recip engines have what is commonly referred to as fuel
vapor standoff. Take the aircleaner off a single cyl Briggs
eng, crank it up to operating rpm (3600) and look closely.
You will see a small cloud of fuel vapor a few inches from
the carb intake. It just sits there and does nothing.
Now turn a Rotax 2 cycle engine sideways to a terrific wind
storm, and what happens? The high velocity wind blows the
fuel vapor out of the air filter. When you land, taxi to
tie down, the engine is working slower and slower, then you
shut it down. Fuel and oil residue is captured in the
cotton element of the air filter. Then gravity does its
thing while your worthy sky steed is resting in its stall.
I also have that problem with the new 912S and had it with
the old 912. About the only way to cure the problem is put
the air intake inside the fuselage out of the wind blast or
maybe inside a properly designed cowling. Seems like a lot
of work. I'll fly with one orange and one silver carb
body. :-)
I personally do not think you have a problem except
cosmetic.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Banjo fitting for 912 oil return? |
Dear List:
I was wondering if it is common practice to relocate the banjo fitting for
the oil return to the oil tank to the rear of the engine. I thought I had
remembered a discussion of this a while back. I could not find it when I
checked the archives. There is a plug in the rear that seems to be the same
size. I wanted to check with the list's knowledge bank before I gave it a
try. It seems like the rear location would be the lowest point and therefore
should be the best location for the return line.
As usual, any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Mark III - M3-308
N308JB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax-type EGT fittings on exhaust manifold for 503 |
Can anyone please tell me what size thread is used for the bayonette type
[screw in]
EGT sensors? I have to tap mine. Sorta looks like maybe an 8mm-1.25.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dama Riddick <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
attention to airspeed at all. Just fly low angles of attack initially until
your ASI is known to display correct speeds. Dual in type or similar is
always best to get to know the new sensations.
Sincereley,
Kip Laurie
N111KX FS-705
Atlanta
-----Original Message-----
From: Kenneth Glen Aubrey [SMTP:kgaubrey(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 1:39 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Flying Speeds
Ok Firestar piolets lets here ya. I am about to fly my Firestar II for the
very first time and wanted to know what people are using for climb out
speeds and approach speeds. I was also wondering how close to 26 is the
stall speed going to be. I have a FSII with a 503 and it weighs 340 lbs
empty. I know the speeds for the quicksilver ( I am taking lessons in) are
going to be pretty far off.
Glen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: drag strut bolt |
Well said Terry. I don't know why Woody got upset with that one, I'm just
glad nothing bad happened when something really bad easily could have
happened. No sermon implied.
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Date: Monday, June 05, 2000 7:59 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: drag strut bolt
>
>Woody
>
>I replied to the e-mail before I read yours and I added a little more of my
>religious convictions. Sorry. I certainly didn't want to offend you or
>anyone else on this list. Some of us live and speak this way without a
>second thought, just as others would curse without a second thought. Your
>right, this discussion could go on forever, and that is a long time, and at
>some point we won't even need e-mail to continue it, and we probably won't
>be flying Kolb's. I hope you and I are at the same place at that time! I
>remain grateful!
>
>Terry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Woody
>Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 4:12 PM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: drag strut bolt
>
>
>>
>>Wow.
>>
>>I got scared just reading this I'm very glad things turned out the way
>>they did. God was watching over you.
> I don't want to start a flame war or get off topic on the list but
>could we leave out our religious convictions and beliefs? Why did your god
>allow the bolts to be missing in the first place? Maybe your god was trying
>to kill him but didn't succeed. A discussion like this could go on forever
>and no solution is possible. It is also definitely not Kolb related.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Speeds |
>
> >
> > Ok Firestar piolets lets here ya. I am about to fly my Firestar II for the
> > very first time and wanted to know what people are using for climb out
> > speeds and approach speeds. I was also wondering how close to 26 is
In my old crude way all I have ever done on a first flight is check the
speed the wheels leave the ground and add a few more mph when I first land.
Don't worry about what the numbers indicate, just fly what they tell you on
your airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Also noted on my first flight,FS2,at just above stall you can really hear the
prop cavitate as it mushes down through the air as the sink rate increases.
Speed fell 2 or 3 more mph before the nose dropped at stall, not a real sharp
break but very definite. The power setting was close to 3000 rpms so I
approached the stall very slowly.G.Aman FS2 43Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cjcullen" <cjcullen(at)mediaone.net> |
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)quik.com>
> I am not sure this is relevant to finding the right vg spot on a wing
> but some guys were doing it for propellers. they would smear the prop with
> dirty oil and then run it. The oil would leave a track where it lifted off
> the prop. The vg bumps were installed at that point. Perhaps a
modification
> of this technique could be done to work on the wing?
I suppose you could use oil but it would be messy.
A more typical method is to use strands of yarn or something
that are taped or stuck (somehow) to a wing in horizontal rows.
By visual observation you can get a pretty good
idea where the boundry layer is etc.
I read a good article about how one pilot dramatically increased the
effectivness of his ailerons with vortex generators by first analyzing the
airflow over the wings of his Long EZ with yarn strings.
I think he had a friend fly along in another plane so his friend could
get a look at the yarn strings from a better angle.
The oil on the prop is used because you can't observe the airflow over
the prop while in flight. You have to mark the prop somehow (oil streaks)
and analyze the results when you get back on the ground.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | antenna for cheep |
for the last couple of weeks there has been mention of my
cheep and easy antenna. well sorry it took so long to get
a page up so you could see it.
http://www.brigham.net/~byoung/antenna.html
if anyone has questions let me know
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
i just flew my mark III a couple of weeks ago for the first
time and if i had been looking for an exact speed i would
have been in for a big suprize
i had set up a peto static line and apparently the static
line was not working properly. my first flights were
showing 40 mph on best climb and 50 at cruse the pre stall
buffeting was about 15, i unhooked the static line and
the speeds jumped to 70 for best climb and 90 for cruse.
the pre stall buffeting come at 55. since then i built a
new peto static system and the best climb is about 55 to 60
curse at 70 75 and stall at 35 clean 29 with 20 deg flaps.
what i am saying is for a figure to be accurate the peto
static system would have to be the same. for me to say
55 would have been anywhere from full max to best climb
to stall depending on setup. that is where an experienced
text pilot in type is invaluable.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Banjo fitting for 912 oil return? |
> I was wondering if it is common practice to relocate the banjo fitting for
> the oil return to the oil tank to the rear of the engine.
> John Bickham
John and Gang:
No it is not. Nothing in the books talk about it. In 1994,
when I mounted the 912 on my MK III I noticed the set up and
changed mine to the rear (PTO) and lowest point of the
engine case.
912s are shipped in the tractor configuration. Therefore
the banjo fitting is located in the lowest point for
tractors. If the fitting is not moved to the rear or PTO
end of the case in the pusher configuration, it leaves a lot
of oil in the crank case.
I asked Eric Tucker at the 912 school about relocating. He
agreed it should be done. There is no info in the books
reference changing locations.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | air speed indicator |
in my humble opinion ( imho) the airspeed indicator is one
instrument i would not do without. coming out of the sky
withnot knowing how fast you are going is one way to spell
disaster. i fly the asi through the approach till i am
within a couple feet of the ground then i fly the plane to
position it just above the runway while the speed bleeds off
and it stalls. almost all of my landings are tail wheel
first.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
prop tip speed of "only" 518 mph. That isnt
>high enough to cause cavitation is it? Any other ideas? Maybe check my
>tach?
that is to low for "cavitation" (actully you mean going past criticle mach
where the excelerated flow locally on the airfoil goes super sonic and
causes shock waves and noise. Cavitation is something that happens in
liquids, where the pressure drop is high enough locally that the water
reaches its vapour pressure and turns to steam, making a steam filled cavity
in the water. Props can make noise also cause they are stalled or because
they are interfering with some other airflow. I would lower your pitch and
increase rpm a bit to see if you can unstall the blades, or add a spacer to
your prop if that is allowed to get it farther from the wing trailing edge
to reduce interferance. Warp drives are very stiff and respond poorly to
desturbed air flow.
Topher
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
> I am not sure this is relevant to finding the right vg spot on a wing
>but some guys were doing it for propellers. they would smear the prop with
>dirty oil and then run it. The oil would leave a track where it lifted off
>the prop. The vg bumps were installed at that point. Perhaps a modification
>of this technique could be done to work on the wing?
This does work but it is tricky, you have to use just the right thickness of
oil and the right flight profile so that the oil doesn't just run right back
over the wing during the takeoff run or stay glooped on the wing until you
fly so fast that your not near stall. with just the right amount and
thickness of oil you takeoff, fly very slowly to safe altitude, stall and
then fly slowly right back and land. if you get lucky you will see streaks
of oil going to the rear and then jumping off the airfoil. or going to the
rear turning around and coming forward and then going back again. when it
works it works great. we used this in the wind tunnel on the f-16 to see
how the large vortex over the wing was moved by the application of nose
chines. Turnsout a little 3 by 6 inch piece of sheet metal on the pitot
tube can generate a huge side force on the plane that can be used to control
the plane at above 60 degrees AOA. Dont try this at home though, it makes
the plane very unstable, and you need a flyby wire to control the thing.
At Cessna we tried to find the transition point on the laminar flow wing of
the citation jet by using liquid crystals in a thick oil. the crystals
would change color depending on the shear forces on the oil. It made for
some fairly good pictures but the tests also where very expensive. a
couple ounce jar of the liquid crystals was around $10,000.00, 2 citations
flying in formation for hours isn't cheep either.
Putting the VG's at different locations on the wing depending on span makes
sense if the aoa at different parts of the wing is different which is
probably true, but the delta will be small. Or if you want more stall
prevention outboard then inboard it might work. but if the goal is to get
the most reduction in stall speed with the least cost then put them all at
the optimum location. As far as an increase in cruise speed due to the
addition of vg's I would have to see some really good data to buy that. if
the wing is flying around with separated flow at the cruise attitude then
there is something wrong with the wing. vg's will increase speed where they
prevent separated flow. the back of the MK III fuselage would be a great
place for those. the wing at cruise should not be separated, cause that is
a stall, so you are disrupting the airflow without anything to gain.
shouldn't go faster.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
> I fell very strongly about this. The most important thing in a Kolb
>is AIRSPEED. Lack of airspeed destroys more Kolbs and injures more Kolb
>pilots than any other thing. So don't be temped to believe that it isn't
>necessary to pay attention to airspeed.
If you dont have an AOAI then you have to pay attention to the ASI or you
will die.
Attitude has nothing to do with stall. flying in a level attitude does not
prevent stall. not at all. dont pass this rumor on to anyone else. you
might kill them. keep the wing below stall aoa and you wont stall. keep AS
above the stall airspeed for you current configuration and loading and you
wont stall. keep the plane at a level attitude without power and you will
slow down until you reach stall speed and stall.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
Hey, Topher.. Sounds to me that you ought to be in on this vg
experiment. I'll send you the 40 odd vg's that I haven't used yet if
you'll share your observations with us all.They're all taped up and
ready to stick on. All free. Del Vinal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vg's/washout |
In a message dated 6/8/00 12:01:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
richard(at)BCChapel.org writes:
<< What if you have the VG's a little further forward toward the tips, and a
little further back toward the center section, could this lower the stall
speed and improve the stall characteristics, and also pick up a tiny bit of
top end because of the VG's toward the middle of the wing? Or at least not
loose any top end?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ld Poops) >>
Do I pick up a concept of VIRTUAL WASHOUT happening here??
I had a pterodactyl before the Firestar and it was very docile and
antistallish. I thought it might be due to the canard configuration, but the
more I looked at that wing which was designed to have a lot of washout, the
more I concluded that the sinking character of the stall was due largely to
the variable angle of attack presented by the construction of the wing.
Your concept makes a lot of sense to me for a Virtual or unreal washout
effect by adding the VG's at different locations back from the leading edge
to accomplish the same wing stall sequence, ie, the wing root stalls first ,
then the tips.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DataBuilder" <DataBuilder(at)rcsis.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax-type EGT fittings on exhaust manifold for 503 |
The tap I used was an 8mm 1.0
Brian Hale
Sacramento, CA
Firestar I
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of HShack(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax-type EGT fittings on exhaust manifold for 503
Can anyone please tell me what size thread is used for the bayonette type
[screw in]
EGT sensors? I have to tap mine. Sorta looks like maybe an 8mm-1.25.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> wondering if anyone has ever used the product "Rain-X" on the windscreen
> of their Kolb.
>
> PaulV
PaulV and Gang:
Thanks for the reminder. I will put that on my list for my
Alaska flight.
I haven't used it on the MK III because I never think about
it until I am caught in the rain. However, I have used it
on my boat and it works wonders. Rain sheets right off. I
did a comparison, not intentionally, just lazy. Put RainX
on one side of split windshield and not the other. The
untreated side was very difficult to see through, most
especially at night.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net> |
John,
The reason I posted this question is that I have used "Rain-X" on my
autos and my motorcycle years ago and it seems to me that it worked
great on auto glass but would fog up on my motorcycle (plexiglass) in
cold weather. I can't say for sure if it was the "Rain-X" on plexiglass
that was the problem or not or if it was just the conditions I was in. I
would like to make sure before I put it on my MK III.
PaulV
(p.s. 39 hrs on the MK III with no problems :) )
John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> > wondering if anyone has ever used the product "Rain-X" on the windscreen
> > of their Kolb.
> >
> > PaulV
>
> PaulV and Gang:
>
> Thanks for the reminder. I will put that on my list for my
> Alaska flight.
>
> I haven't used it on the MK III because I never think about
> it until I am caught in the rain. However, I have used it
> on my boat and it works wonders. Rain sheets right off. I
> did a comparison, not intentionally, just lazy. Put RainX
> on one side of split windshield and not the other. The
> untreated side was very difficult to see through, most
> especially at night.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Mixing AVGAS and MOGAS |
Good Morning Gang:
Need some professional advice. During my flight to Barrow
and back I will have the opportunity to fuel with, in
addition to 100LL, 89 octane in Canada and 87 octane in
Alaska. MOGAS is much cheaper than 100LL, plus, when fuel
is available I like to top off the tank.
Here's my question: How do I figure what octane is in the
tank when I mix different fuel with different octane
ratings?
Off the top of my head I would say add equal ratios together
and divide by two. I.e., 100 + 87 divided by 2 = 187 = 93.5
octane.
Please let me know if I am on the right track. I do not
want to ruin a high compression engine to detonation because
of some stupid act on my part.
Has anyone used "octane boosters"? I plan on taking some of
this along with me also, just in case.
Take care,
john h
PS: It is a beautiful Friday morning. No wind, clear sky.
I think I better go do a test flight before I depart for
Etowah Bend in the morning. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Now, THERE'S an idea. I've looked at the rear of my fuelage a 100 times -
at least - trying to figure a way to get better airflow to the prop. This
could well be the reason for Erich Weaver's noisy prop as well. I have in
mind extending the rear of the fuselage to a point, the way that Cliff
Stripling did. Looks real good, but I think it's only a partial cure. Any
high powered engineers out there want to take a swing at this ?? How 'bout
it, Topher ?? Hopeful Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Christopher John Armstrong <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: vg's
>vg's will increase speed where they
> prevent separated flow.
the back of the MK III fuselage would be a great
> place for those.
>
Topher
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/9/00 10:32:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< >vg's will increase speed where they
> prevent separated flow.
the back of the MK III fuselage would be a great
> place for those.
>
Topher >>
Larry, you need to read more- I suggested this about six weeks ago.
If you look down at the top of your cage, it looks like a big fat symetrical
airfoil [maybe with a bob-tail]. I will soon put three VG's on the widest
part of that airfoil on each side & will let you know results.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Speeds |
Talking about full stall landings. Dave had to land his FireStar with two
flat tires and no breaks.
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
building a FireStar II
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
In a message dated 6/9/00 8:23:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rr(at)htg.net writes:
> No, I did not have the breaks in the beginning, yes, I can, and do, stall my
> plane onto dirt roads around the range nearly every day! (I have landed
> into many places I really shouldn't have).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven S. Green" <GREENSS(at)Bowater.com> |
A1-type: MAIL
When I built my pitot/static tube I used the tube inside a tube design
like some "real planes" use with the inner tube being the pitot and the
outer the static. After completed I took the pitot/static fastened it
to a broom stick, connected it to the ASI and got in the car and tested
the system at various speeds and found it to be very close. I also
checked for changes in IAS at different angles to the relative wind (AOA
if in a plane) and saw very little if any change. I also plan to build
an AOA stall warning device for my Mark III.
Steven Green
East TN
N58SG
Hope to be flying by Oct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
I think that Rain-X is silicon based. I remember Jim Miller saying that
silicon anything on your Poly-stuff causes fisheye if you every have to
patch and repaint (I'm paraphrasing what he said of course...) Anyway yes
you are putting it on your windshield and not your fabric but I seem to
remember that it is kind of like tube seal (linseed oil) , it "crawls"
around .... it just might crawl up on the fabric. Now there are more holes
in this theory than Swiss cheese but you might want to get the Miller's
opinion on it...Heck for what I know it might be fine!!!
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
P.S. Yes have used Rain-X before (on glass) and I have to say it really
works. You just have to reapply every couple of months cause it disappears
or something...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul
VonLindern
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rain-X
John,
The reason I posted this question is that I have used "Rain-X" on my
autos and my motorcycle years ago and it seems to me that it worked
great on auto glass but would fog up on my motorcycle (plexiglass) in
cold weather. I can't say for sure if it was the "Rain-X" on plexiglass
that was the problem or not or if it was just the conditions I was in. I
would like to make sure before I put it on my MK III.
PaulV
(p.s. 39 hrs on the MK III with no problems :) )
John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> > wondering if anyone has ever used the product "Rain-X" on the windscreen
> > of their Kolb.
> >
> > PaulV
>
> PaulV and Gang:
>
> Thanks for the reminder. I will put that on my list for my
> Alaska flight.
>
> I haven't used it on the MK III because I never think about
> it until I am caught in the rain. However, I have used it
> on my boat and it works wonders. Rain sheets right off. I
> did a comparison, not intentionally, just lazy. Put RainX
> on one side of split windshield and not the other. The
> untreated side was very difficult to see through, most
> especially at night.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Web Page Post |
Hello Kolbers,
Mike wrote back (below) with the address. If you want to read the rest of
the story just click on it. Its been a great thread! ...Richard Swiderski
Michael Sharp wrote:
> Richard,
>
> Thank you for your trust in me to be able to get the HTML to work...Ha ha
>
> The site is located at
>
> http://www.geocities.com/n6490j/Richards_Story.html
>
> Check it out and if you are happy with it, post it to the group.....
>
> I appologize, but some of the formats wouldn't come across... everytime a '
> was entered we get a box instead of the ' sorry.. however, the rest of the
> message is intact...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/9/00 3:43:18 AM, Tophera(at)centurytel.net writes:
<< As far as an increase in cruise speed due to the
addition of vg's I would have to see some really good data to buy that. if
the wing is flying around with separated flow at the cruise attitude then
there is something wrong with the wing. vg's will increase speed where they
prevent separated flow. the back of the MK III fuselage would be a great
place for those. >>
Excellent comment. Was wondering if the best place for VGs might be on the
gap seal to keep the flow laminar as it enters the hodge podge area of the
engine??
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
This
> could well be the reason for Erich Weaver's noisy prop as well. I have in
> mind extending the rear of the fuselage to a point, the way that Cliff
> Stripling did. Hopeful Lar.
Erich, Big Lar, and Gang:
Probably is one of the contributing factors. While you are
extending the rear of the fuselage to a point, you can also
paint your airplane the same colors and scheme as mine.
hehehe :-) Just kidding guys. No offense intended. But
don't blame me if I go out to fly and get in the wrong
airplane cause it looks like mine. ;-)
Just got back from bashing the air molecules to bits for an
hour. When I left home it was dead calm and cool. When I
took off the "wind hawk" was kicking butt. Anyhow, wanted
to fly a little with full fuel tanks. Hot and gusty, but
looks like she is climbing 1400-1500 fpm at 65 mph. Not bad
for a big fat hog.
The MK III is ready to go to Alaska, and back I hope. Now
all I have to do is take care of all the administrative
details, finalize packing and loading supplies, equipment,
clothing, 38 sectionals (US and Canadian), and on and on.
Reckon I can get that done in two weeks.
Back to prop noise. My MK III and 912S with 72 inch 3 blade
prop seems to make more noise than the 912 and 70 inch
prop. This morning during preflight I noticed that the prop
tips come within a couple inches of the inboard end of the
flaps. I am pretty sure this is where a lot of noise is
generated. I am running a two inch prop extension. A 4
inch extension would probably help, but the low placement of
my engine might prove a problem with prop tips too close to
tailboom. Oh well, as long at the prop is making a lot of
noise I know the engine is running and that is good. :-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net>
Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 11:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: vg's
>
> Hey, Topher.. Sounds to me that you ought to be in on this vg
>experiment. I'll send you the 40 odd vg's that I haven't used yet if
>you'll share your observations with us all.They're all taped up and
>ready to stick on. All free. Del Vinal.
My plane needs to be covered and then engine and systems installed and then
I can worry about vgs and the other touch ups. I haven't been in the shop
in almost a year but I am planning on getting back on it after Oshkosh.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
>Excellent comment. Was wondering if the best place for VGs might be on the
>gap seal to keep the flow laminar as it enters the hodge podge area of the
>engine??
Vortex generators destroy laminar flow. They generate vortexes (about as
turbulent a flow as you can get) which add energy to the air and allow it to
remain unseparated when it has to fight its way up an adverse pressure
gradient. Adverse pressure gradients are anywhere that the pressure is
getting greater in the direction the air is moving. air obviously doesn't
like to flow from low to high pressure so in rebellion is stops flowing and
bunches up in a ball. this results is lots of drag and very little lift in
the case of a stalling wing. a fairing around the engine would smooth the
flow out around the engine and then VGS could be used to help the flow go
around the sharp curves that made up the sides of the fairing. The forward
top of the gap seal is not a bad shape (better then the fabric covered wing)
but I could see two big v shaped vgs deflecting the flow to the sides of the
engine and then the vortex's generated by them curling the flow tightly
around the back of the motor. could maybe get better air to the prop then
just a big ball of mush that is behind the engine now. or it might make it
worse..... just guessing.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixing AVGAS and MOGAS |
During my flight to Barrow
>and back I will have the opportunity to fuel with, in
>addition to 100LL, 89 octane in Canada and 87 octane in
>Alaska. MOGAS is much cheaper than 100LL, plus, when fuel
>is available I like to top off the tank.
>
>Here's my question: How do I figure what octane is in the
>tank when I mix different fuel with different octane
>ratings?
>
>Off the top of my head I would say add equal ratios together
>and divide by two. I.e., 100 + 87 divided by 2 = 187 = 93.5
>octane.
John check out octane on a web search...
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/octane.htm
This one is not great but has some numbers to call with questions
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
Two of my flying friends (one a Kolb pilot, the other a Piper Colt pilot) met
at he Quincy Florida airport late yesterday afternoon. I got there early and
it looked like maybe 8 mph were blowing straight across the only runway. I
took off and flew the pattern. On final I found that the breeze blew me right
out of my grass landing approach and into to a runway approach. Not wanting
the airport landing society to condemn me I tried to make it look like I was
aiming for the runway all along. Everything went fine until just before I got
to the ground effect. It was a really squirly approach but I got her into the
ground effect I found that it too was also moving across the runway. I
crabbed for a ways then got her upwind wheel down followed by the other two.
Note to myself: don't always try to keep avoiding those situations, learn how
to handle them!
Back at the hangar we all did maintenance for about an hour while the wind
slowed considerably. The other Kolb and the Colt took off first then I
followed. At about 1800' we flew 3 abreast through several slow turns then
headed to another friends strip. We dropped down for a low pass over his
field then turned for home not wanting to irritate his neighbors with
landings and takeoffs. We went back to Quincy still talking over our radios
about landmarks, comparing ASIs, altimeters and commenting how lucky we are.
The landings were easy and we all put our planes up, debriefed and went our
separate ways.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly,447, repaired Ivo, full canopy.
big wheels.
In the light of day the dings in my prop were not nearly as serious as I
first thought. I repaired them with marine epoxy (not military, boaty).
Beautiful.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 45 help.... Thumbs |
I seem to have " temporarily misplaced " my owners manual for my Garmin 45.
This is just a plain old Garmin 45, not any of the newer models. I have to
do the set up again acquiring the satellites from scratch. I this takes
about 20 minutes or so but I cannot remember exactly how to do it. I know I
have to find a place with as much open sky as possible. I also know what of
the bonds have to be pushed for a couple of seconds for the special paged to
appear. Can anyone help me with this?
Thanks for the help
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
|
____F i r e S t a r____
___(+)___
(_)
\ /
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 45 help.... Thumbs |
> I seem to have " temporarily misplaced " my owners manual for my Garmin 45.
Gary:
Go to this page, click on GPS 45, then download the manual
from Garmin for free.
http://www.garmin.com/support/userManual.html
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 45 help.... Thumbs |
I sent this message before but I'm afraid it did not get out. If it turns
out as a duplicate please excuse.
I have to start over setting up my garment 45. This unit is the straight
Garmin 45 not any of the newer models of the 45. I have to start the
acquiring satellites procedure again. This is the procedure that is first
done when you first get the unit. This is not the procedure of the daylight
searching the sky process. This is the one they usually takes 15 to 20
minutes upon original start up. unfortunately I seem to have " temporarily
misplaced " my owners manual for this unit. Can anyone will owns one of
these look in their manual and tell me how this procedure is done? I know I
have to push a button down for about two seconds and special screen will
appear. I have pushed a bunch of buttons down but can't seem to get the
thing to work properly. The unit works fine, its operator error. LOL
Thanks for the help
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
|
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 36 Msgs - 06/08/00 |
In a message dated 06/09/2000 12:04:14 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< I was impressed with the peformance of the Kolb...so that's why
I've choosen the Kolb list to begin my learning process. >>
Charlie:
I started in Cessna 172's and now fly a Firestar. Kind of like the
difference between the family station wagon and a Harley. I love my
firestar. Flying it is truly a religious experience. I find myself smiling
for the rest of the day. Flew with a Quicksilver for the first time last
week. I covered twice the ground on half the fuel. (not to mention that the
Kolb looks better!) you can't go wrong with a Kolb.
Roger Hankins
firestar1 503 - 2blade -ivo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> |
>
>Now, THERE'S an idea. I've looked at the rear of my fuelage a 100 times -
>at least - trying to figure a way to get better airflow to the prop. This
>could well be the reason for Erich Weaver's noisy prop as well. I have in
>mind extending the rear of the fuselage to a point, the way that Cliff
>Stripling did. Looks real good, but I think it's only a partial cure. Any
>high powered engineers out there want to take a swing at this ?? How 'bout
>it, Topher ?? Hopeful Lar.
When I build my MK X I will be trying to reduce the drag back there also. I
intend on tapering the back end 3:1 and then square it off when it gets to
the prop. This will give a wider rear than most guys would think normal but
the air will still be attached when it got there. Is The 3:1 ratio right or
is it 4:1 for proper aerodynamics? Anyhow I will also add a step into the
side at the half way distance to the end of the cage from the widest point
of the cage. This step will be about 4 inches deep and take up 1/4 of the
side area and extend to the rear cage members. This step will act as a
vortex generator and keep the flow attached. For more info on this
phenomena you could read the book "The Ultimate Paper Airplane" by Dick
Kline. Anyhow that is my theory for now. I'll send you a scan of my MK X
model Lar so you can see what I mean. I hope I explained this clearly if
not ask and I will try again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
A few days ago someone (Miz broomie?) wanted the *178 seconds to live*
thing.
Just found it, submitted by Ralph Burlingame 7/21/99. was on an old HD
that I just fixed.
>
178 Seconds to Live
How long can a pilot who has little or no instrument training expect to
live after he flies into bad weather and loses visual contact?
Researchers at the University of Illinois did some tests and came up
with some very interesting data. Twenty student "guinea pigs" flew into
simulated instrument weather, and all went into graveyard spirals or
roller coasters [attribute to the U of I flight training program??]. The
outcome differed in only one respect - the time required till control
was
lost. The interval ranged from 480 seconds to 20 seconds. The average
time was 178 seconds -- two seconds short of three minutes.
Here's the fatal scenario. . . . . . .
The sky is overcast and the visibility is poor. That reported five mile
visibility looks more like two, and you can't judge the height of the
overcast. Your altimeter tells you that you are at 1500 feet but your
map
tells
you that there's local terrain as high as 1200 feet. There might be a
tower nearby because you're not sure how far off course you are. But
you've flown into worse weather than this, so press on.
You find yourself unconsciously easing back just a bit on the
controls to clear those towers. With no warning, you're in the soup.
You peer so hard into the milky white mist that your eyes hurt. You
fight
the feeling in your stomach. You try to swallow, only to find your mouth
dry. Now you realize you should have waited for better weather. The
appointment was important, but not all that important.
Somewhere a voice is saying, "You've had it -- it's all over!"
You now have 178 seconds to live.
Your aircraft feels on even keel but your compass turns slowly. You
push a little rudder and add a little pressure on the controls to stop
the turn but this feels unnatural and you return the controls to their
original position. This feels better but now your compass is turning a
little faster and your airspeed is increasing slightly.
You scan your instruments for help but what you see looks somewhat
unfamiliar. You're sure that this is just a bad spot. You'll break out
in
a few minutes.
(But you don't have a few minutes left. . .)
You now have 100 seconds to live.
You glance at your altimeter and you are shocked to see it unwinding.
You're already down to 1200 feet. Instinctively, you pull back on the
controls but the altimeter still unwinds. The engine is into the red and
the airspeed, nearly so. You have 45 seconds to live.
Now you're sweating and shaking. There must be something wrong with the
controls; pulling back only moves the airspeed indicator further into
the red. You can hear the wind tearing at the aircraft. You are about to
meet your Maker; you have 10 seconds to live. Suddenly you see the
ground. The trees rush up at you. You can see the horizon if you turn
your head far enough but it's at a weird angle --
you're almost inverted. You open your mouth to scream but. . . . . ..
you just ran out of seconds.
Think about it before you press on into marginal weather
Lucian Bartosik>
bn
http:/members.xoom.com/ronoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil & Sara Lohiser" <philsara(at)modex.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: Phil & Sara Lohiser
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 11:11 PM
Subject: Spar Tube
Kolb Builders
Have plans for Kolb Ultra Star , original spar had 6063 alum. tubing ,
talked to Kolb people at Osh. several years ago and they said they were
going to 6061-T6 instead of the 6063 irrigation pipe , just talked to tube
supplier and he said Kolb had gone back to irrigation pipe again, wonder if
the new kit's are pipe or 6061-T6 for main spar.
Thanks
Phil Lohiser
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
If I didn't know what you're flying, John, I'd say that sounds like wishful
thinking. Not when Miss P'fer is involved tho'. The other week,
I took a serious look at the aft end of the cage, then looked up my archived
pics of Cliff's plane. That pointy fuselage end sounds real neat in theory,
but looks like it may just be a bear to build. 'Course, isn't everything ??
The aileron activator is in just about exactly the wrong place. Does
anyone have any experienced words of wisdom on how to go about building this
thing ?? Cliff ?? I'll also be watching with great interest for Howard's
results with the VG's mounted on the pod. I had the dummy
engine, redrive, and shiny new Warp Drive prop mounted up on Vamoose a few
weeks ago, anticipating a visit, and found my clearance problem to be the
opposite of everyone else's. That 72" prop clears the boom by about 7", so
I'll have to try and get it a little lower. Long ago, Dennis expressed
concern about my thrust line, thinking it may be too high. I poo-pooed the
idea then, but looks like it's come back to bite me. The best I can see to
do will drop that thing about 2", so I guess prop noise may be one of my
lesser problems. We'll see. Big Lar. Do not
Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: vg's
>
>
> This
> > could well be the reason for Erich Weaver's noisy prop as well. I have
in
> > mind extending the rear of the fuselage to a point, the way that Cliff
> > Stripling did. Hopeful Lar.
>
>
> Erich, Big Lar, and Gang:
>
> Probably is one of the contributing factors. While you are
> extending the rear of the fuselage to a point, you can also
> paint your airplane the same colors and scheme as mine.
> hehehe :-) Just kidding guys. No offense intended. But
> don't blame me if I go out to fly and get in the wrong
> airplane cause it looks like mine. ;-)
>
> Back to prop noise. My MK III and 912S with 72 inch 3 blade
> prop seems to make more noise than the 912 and 70 inch
> prop. This morning during preflight I noticed that the prop
> tips come within a couple inches of the inboard end of the
> flaps. I am pretty sure this is where a lot of noise is
> generated. I am running a two inch prop extension. A 4
> inch extension would probably help, but the low placement of
> my engine might prove a problem with prop tips too close to
> tailboom. Oh well, as long at the prop is making a lot of
> noise I know the engine is running and that is good. :-)
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cjcullen" <cjcullen(at)mediaone.net> |
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
> Vortex generators destroy laminar flow. They generate vortexes (about as
> turbulent a flow as you can get) which add energy to the air and allow it
to
> remain unseparated when it has to fight its way up an adverse pressure
> gradient.
Not sure what you mean.
I've always heard vg's add a few small vortices at appropriate places on the
top of an airfoil which has the effect of moving the separation bubble
back father toward the trailing edge of the wing.
This is an increase in laminar flow.
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
Is The 3:1 ratio right or
>is it 4:1 for proper aerodynamics? Anyhow I will also add a step into the
>side at the half way distance to the end of the cage from the widest point
>of the cage. This step will be about 4 inches deep and take up 1/4 of the
>side area and extend to the rear cage members. This step will act as a
>vortex generator and keep the flow attached. For more info on this
>phenomena you could read the book "The Ultimate Paper Airplane" by Dick
>Kline
3 to 1 taper is about the best for a cylindrical tailcone. The back end of
the MK III is not quite a cone, and it has a big flat plate on top of it
(the wing). Whether it is better to have attached turbulent flow to the big
flat plate right in front of the prop or separated flow to a pointy end is
an interesting question. the brand new deltahawk gyroplane uses this exact
idea, but I haven't heard if they are getting the performance they wanted.
The stepped airfoils do work really well in the target Reynolds number
range, but that RN range is very low, even compared to "Ultralights".
RN paper airplane (13.6 mph =rho*Velocity(ft/sec)*length(ft)/mu
=.00237*20*.75/.000000375=94800
RN ultralight (70 mph) =.00237*100*5/.000000375=3160000
RN RV-6 (200 mph) =.00237*300*4/.000000375=7584000
so think about it before you use them on your plane. the size of the step
should not scale directly. 4 inches is more then you need to trip the flow.
a similar airfoil that has a nicer looking shape but functions the same way
is the Leibeck turbulent rooftop series. these are also intended for RN
below around 1 million
topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
>I've always heard vg's add a few small vortices at appropriate places on
the
>top of an airfoil which has the effect of moving the separation bubble
>back father toward the trailing edge of the wing.
>This is an increase in laminar flow.
>
>chuck
There is laminar flow, turbulent flow and separated flow. laminar flow is a
very tricky beast that will give you the very least amount of drag, but it
requires an absolutely smooth, evenly curved, unflexable surface. when
laminar flow hits an adverse pressure gradient it tends to separate, jumping
drag up by a factor of as much as 10 times. the same low velocity at the
skin surface that creates low drag in laminar flow causes the flow to
separate because it has no energy to push its way through the high pressure
region.
Turbulent flow is about twice as draggy as laminar flow but it has much more
resistance to separation. the air from an inch or two above the surface is
constantly mixing with the air at the surface keeping it going faster and
giving it more energy and more drag. The added energy allows turbulent flow
to push its way through the high pressure region and not separate.
a perfectly smooth golf ball has laminar flow to about the halfway point and
a bit farther, but then transitions to separated flow. it has very high drag
and doesn't go very far. a dimpled golf ball has turbulent flow and the
energetic air stays attached to the golf ball much farther around the back
side before it separates. ( the spin on the ball really magnifies this
effect, keeping the flow on the top of the ball attached nearly all the way
around.) it has much less drag, generates more lift due to spin and goes
much farther.
so yes, vortex generators prevent separated flow, reducing drag, but they
do it by creating turbulent flow, not by maintaining laminar flow.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Brake Fluid Leaks |
Has anyone figured out a way to stop the plastic brake line fittings from
"weeping" ?? I've already replaced 1 reservoir (for $20.00) after
tightening the fitting in the bottom of it too tightly. Now the "T" below
the reservoir has started up, and I've already re-snugged them once. Clean
up is a struggle, and it shouldn't do it anyway. Help.
Leaky Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Topher
As a golfer, I really enjoyed this description. However, you failed to
explain why some of my golf shots make a hard left turn! :)
Terry
a perfectly smooth golf ball has laminar flow to about the halfway point and
a bit farther, but then transitions to separated flow. it has very high drag
and doesn't go very far. a dimpled golf ball has turbulent flow and the
energetic air stays attached to the golf ball much farther around the back
side before it separates. ( the spin on the ball really magnifies this
effect, keeping the flow on the top of the ball attached nearly all the way
around.) it has much less drag, generates more lift due to spin and goes
much farther.
so yes, vortex generators prevent separated flow, reducing drag, but they
do it by creating turbulent flow, not by maintaining laminar flow.
Topher
May 17, 2000 - June 10, 2000
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cc