Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cd

June 10, 2000 - June 28, 2000



      
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From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: Spar Tube
Date: Jun 10, 2000
> Kolb Builders > Have plans for Kolb Ultra Star , original spar had 6063 alum. tubing , > talked to Kolb people at Osh. several years ago and they said they were > going to 6061-T6 instead of the 6063 irrigation pipe , just talked to tube > supplier and he said Kolb had gone back to irrigation pipe again, wonder if > the new kit's are pipe or 6061-T6 for main spar. Hi Phil and Gang, When I bought my 1994 model FS II kit in 1999 it was still wrapped in the factory boxes and wrapping paper. The original owner had never even inventoried the parts. I placed many calls to the Kolb co. asking questions and found out in one of these calls with John Yates (if I recall correctly) that my main spars was 6061-T6 and the current models had the 6063 spar tubes. My first thought was that they had gone to a better tube but when John kindly offered to swap some current tubes for my tubes I realized I had the better tube. I was under the impression the 5" 6061-T6 was no longer available and the 6063 was the next best alternative. If the 6061- T6 is still available, why did they swap? How about it Kolb guru's. Later, John Cooley Building FS II #1162 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Evening Flight
Good post. It is possible that the split happened after your preflight. Last year I had flown to an airport about 30 miles away and was leaving for home, had just taken off and was leveling out at about 1000' AGL when I heard a change in the ambient noise. Could not figure out what it was, all the temps were normal, and RPM did not change. Flew on home, keeping alternate fields more in mind than usual, and when I landed, and shut off, discovered that the curved header pipe that runs from the elbow to the muffler cannister (Rotax 532) had split full length on one side, and part way on the other. Oddly enough, it was not possible to identify the sound in flight, but my wife heard me coming home a couple miles away. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ld Poops) > > >Last evening I had a "learning experience" type of flight. Upon takeoff, I >had only 6000 rpms on my 503 instead of the usual 6500. Climbed very slowly >and seemed a little more noise than usual. I was going for just a short >flight, about 10 minutes, to land at a grass strip so I figured I would >adjust the throttle a bit after landing. >After I landed, a pilot friend came over and said my engine sure sounded loud >- maybe something in the exhaust? Upon a closer look, it was kind of >frightening. My muffler had split apart at the seams, had two tears about 3 >inches each, and had broken a spring. Fortunately, the springs were safety >wired and none of the muffler came off to go into the prop. But what a >scare!!! >We removed the exhaust and my friend welded all the seams and the tears. >After reinstalling it and checking very carefully, I took off for my return >flight. the engine performed just great, climbed nicely at 6500 rpm, and >since it was after 8pm I had a very smooth and great flight back to m home >field. >I know I checked the exhaust system on preflight but I not have seen the >muffler coming apart - or it might have done this after takeoff. Anyway, I >consider myself very fortunate that this trip did not turn into a disaster. >My preflight inspections will be even more careful in the future!! > >Jim >Mark III #003 >Charlote, NC > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 10, 2000
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Evening Flight
>Flew on home, keeping >alternate fields more in mind than usual, and when I landed, and shut off, >discovered that the curved header pipe that runs from the elbow to the >muffler cannister (Rotax 532) had split full length on one side, and part >way on the other. That has happened to several people. You probably didn't notice, but your fuel consumption will go up about 300% while your running with a split muffler/elbow. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: vg's
Date: Jun 10, 2000
if I leave it as is, I'll probably have to watch >for excessive nose down pitching on adding power Lar the worst thing in a high thrust line is pitching up on reduced power. If you lose power in climb you will nose up sharply and might stall. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: vg's
Date: Jun 10, 2000
>As a golfer, I really enjoyed this description. However, you failed to >explain why some of my golf shots make a hard left turn! :) If this was a rhetorical question never mind... but its cause your putting spin on the ball in the vertical axis and the turbulent flow sticks to the side as it spins away making sideforce. so keep the golf swing straight and club head flat , eliminate the spin and your tiger woods ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: vg's
Date: Jun 10, 2000
Now, THAT'S good to know. Thanks. I'll get it as low as I can. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Christopher John Armstrong <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2000 7:31 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: vg's > > if I leave it as is, I'll probably have to watch > >for excessive nose down pitching on adding power > > Lar > > the worst thing in a high thrust line is pitching up on reduced power. If > you lose power in climb you will nose up sharply and might stall. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dixieshack(at)webtv.net (orie shackelford)
Date: Jun 11, 2000
Don't have a particular subject fellas, just wanted to add my 2 cents. I've been monitoring the Kolb List for a while and as a new FS II builder (not flying yet) trying to learn as much from you guys as possible. Most of the questions that have come to mind about handling, maintenance, things to look for or be aware of have been answered by Kolb List members.....all I had to do was read. Vortex generators and lower stall speeds were an old interest of mine and Howard Shackleford came through with plans for VGs for the Firestar. Thanks again, Howard. I have cage number 1257 FS II covered in Polyfiber, silver UV protection, and finished in white polytone (no trim yet). Heel brakes, Kolbs larger option tires, BRS 750 cannister (mounted in the Slingshot position, with BRS's blessing), EIS, and a 68" ground adjustable 3 blade Powerfin. I've pretty much decided on a 503, w/3.47 "C" box. I'm open for suggestions and criticisms. I'm a private pilot w/tailwheel endorsement but I've never flown a Kolb except for the demo ride in Phoenixville Pa. and am a little anxious about the first flight when the engine is finally installed. Thanks to all the contributors ....you guys have helped answer questions through your experiences that couldn't have been answered any where else. Mike Shackelford aka "Two Dawgs" in WV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 11, 2000
Subject: Re:
In a message dated 6/11/00 9:53:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dixieshack(at)webtv.net writes: << Thanks to all the contributors ....you guys have helped answer questions through your experiences that couldn't have been answered any where else. Mike Shackelford aka "Two Dawgs" in WV >> Mike, where in WV are you, I flew an N3 pup up from Barnesville Ohio once...since deceased...the plane that is....and just wondered if you were nearby. GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
> >Listers, > >As I am using the 912 and I weight 170 pounds I am anticipating that The >CG is going to be a little heavy on the tail end. If I have to add lead >to the front I would like it to be in a battery and useful. > >Therefore it seems like a good idea to locate the battery as far forward >as possible. I have chosen the area in front of the rudder pedals on the >starboard side. > >Problem: There is very little room and due to the curvature I have been >unable to fabricate a suitable battery box/rack for the max battery I >wanted to use. (5" deep, 7" high, and 6.5" wide, 28 AH and 21 pounds) Why so big a battery? 28 a.h. is prteey good for a C-210 or a Cherokee 235 . . . how about a 7 x 7 x 3" battery that weighs about 14 pounds and needs no battery box . . . Powersonic: PS-12180 http://www.power-sonic.com/12180.html Hawker: Check out the first 6 batteries on this page . . . http://www.hepi.com/products/genesis/genprod.htm Panasonic: particularly the LCRD1271P http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/images/pdf/lc-rd 1217p.pdf http://www.panasonic.com/industrial_oem/battery/battery_oem/chem/seal/seal.htm Yuasa-Exide: Check out the NP18-12B at this site . . . http://www.yuasa-exide.com/np-prod.html >1: Can I let the battery rest on the fiberglass nose cone and secure it >to the steel cage member in front of the rudder pedals? > >2: How about using 2 smaller batteries in parallel? (7 AH each). I am >checking out the Wmart battery that John Hauck mentioned. I suspect that >it is too large? Paralleling batteries is most useful if you have an electrically dependent airplane with two electronic ignition systems, etc. When you want to run the battery to total service depletion, paralleling two batteries to take the place of one never surpasses the value of a single, larger battery. If you need that much ballast, then by all means make it useful ballast and go with the larger battery. One of my readers was showing me his beautifully crafted Long-Ez at OSH about 10 years ago . . he had a 10# piece of $!@## motor cycle battery up front with about 15# of birdshot packed around it. We sold him a new 24 a.h. RG battery from the booth. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different than ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: vg's
> the worst thing in a high thrust line is pitching up on reduced power. If > you lose power in climb you will nose up sharply and might stall. > topher Topher and Gang: Pitch up is easy enough to overcome, push the stick forward. I think overpowering the elevator on takeoff ranks right up there with "the worst thing." I have noticed a notable lack of up elevator authority since upgrading to 912S and 72 inch prop. Especially when flying at gross weight and over on high DA days. Sometimes I think it would be nice having a big prop pull me up and off the ground, rather than using extra power to overcome the high thrust line to break ground. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
> Problem: There is very little room and due to the curvature I have been > unable to fabricate a suitable battery box/rack for the max battery I > wanted to use. (5" deep, 7" high, and 6.5" wide, 28 AH and 21 pounds) L. Ray Baker Ray and Gang: Whoa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Whatcha gonna power with a 24 AH bat? 21 lbs is a heapa lead to be toting around for nuthin. I flew to Dead Horse, Alaska, with a 14 AH wet lead acid battery from Wal-Mart. Only had to get jumped off twice. :-) Unless you are planning on flying in "cold country" you can make do with a 14 AH battery. That is all I ever flew with for the 912. I admit I had to jump start pretty often when I flew up here in Alabama in the winter time, but it had to get uncomfortably cold before the little 912 would not crank. My 14 AH bat, which I still have down in the basement, is 5.25 inches W, 6.5 inches H, and 3.5 inches Deep. The larger 20 AH bat is about 1.5 inches wider than the 14 AH bat. Both weigh much less than 21 lbs. Don't think you are going to have a cg problem with your MK III. You only weigh 10 lbs less than I do and I have a lot more weight in the back than you do, I theeeeeeeenk. Besides, the 912 doesn't have enough alternator power to keep that big bat charged. :-) Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
I believe > Kolb always flew this plane with two people on board (or at least, "one > large one") to keep the CG in check. > > Peter Volum Peter and Gang: Nope. Ole Fat Albert was flown in all kinds of passenger configurations. I personnaly put a lot of hours solo (180 lbs) and hauling "all" kinds of passengers. However, those hours were flown with the 582. I only flew a couple hours at Sun and Fun 99 with the 912 installed. Again, no problem with cg. That particular day I flew the largest, heaviest passenger in my career of people hauling in the MK III. After that I felt the MK III could do about anything. I have never had a cg problem with any of my three different Kolb aircraft. I have been known to stuff some large heavy loads on all my aircraft and they never refused to haul them. In less than two weeks I will do it again, haul it around for 5 to 6 weeks, and she will do it for me. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
Date: Jun 11, 2000
Think I've said this before, but let's try again. My engine is quite a bit heavier than the 912's, and CG is a major concern. With this in mind, when I built my engine mount, ( it's really a long plate with angles on top to contain the engine ) I made it much longer than necessary, so that I could slide the whole engine/redrive/prop assembly forward as far as needed to bring the CG into line. Engine package is the heaviest component on the airplane, right ?? Moving it forward will bring the CG forward, right ?? Seems to me that moving the engine a couple of inches would have the same effect as moving the battery several feet. When my CG is correct, I'll just cut off the excess engine mount, if any, and bolt it down solid. Neat theory, anyway. My point is, why not do something similar with your 912 ?? I haven't seen the mounts for the 912, but even if they're non-moveable, possibly you could make a plate ( or rails, or something ) that would bolt to the airframe Lord mounts. Set your engine on that, and move it where-ever you want, then drill thru and bolt it down. As I say, I haven't seen the standard set-up, so I throw this out there strictly as food for thought. If you like, I have pics of mine that would really illlustrate what I'm saying. Remember the old saying: "The difficult takes a while, the impossible just takes a little longer." Don't remember who said it, ( Seabees ?? ) but it's not that far off. Especially on airplanes named "Vamoose." Are these things boys or girls ?? Is Vamoose a he, she, or it ?? Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 7:40 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III Battery Location > > Listers, > > As I am using the 912 and I weight 170 pounds I am anticipating that The > CG is going to be a little heavy on the tail end. If I have to add lead > to the front I would like it to be in a battery and useful. ===================================================== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 11, 2000
Subject: Re:
In a message dated 6/11/00 9:53:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dixieshack(at)webtv.net writes: << 68" ground adjustable 3 blade Powerfin. I've pretty much decided on a 503, w/3.47 "C" box. >> Mike: I'm running a 3.47 E box with a 72 Powerfin and have had no problems. The prop looks great and is quite smooth. You might look in the archive for my Powerfin product review. I am a big fan of the c/e boxes. Quite smooth and the high ratio slows the prop and is pretty quiet. Much less of that annoying vacuum cleaner whine. Mark Sellers ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2000
From: Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: 912 oil return
Hi All, I have moved my oil line on the bottom of the 912 to the rear position as was talked about on the list. Was just wondering about the plug. It has no way of safetying it like the drain. Are you guys replacing that plug with a bolt that can be safetyed or using something like locktight. Thanks for the help. Monte P.S. Went to the Georgia Sport Flyers Rally yesterday and counted at least 8 Kolbs. I think they had all other brands outnumbered. Also got to tell John hello and wish him good luck on his upcoming trip to Alaska. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Subject: Mark III Battery Location
Date: Jun 11, 2000
Lar The biggest problem moving the 912 forward is having enough room left for the prop to turn. I've considered adding a prop spacer to move the warp drive back, some have said it will lower the prop noise. But the pro's and con's of adding spacers have been discussed to some length in previous post. John H. did you put the prop spacer on the 912S? Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bourne Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 3:23 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Battery Location Think I've said this before, but let's try again. My engine is quite a bit heavier than the 912's, and CG is a major concern. With this in mind, when I built my engine mount, ( it's really a long plate with angles on top to contain the engine ) I made it much longer than necessary, so that I could slide the whole engine/redrive/prop assembly forward as far as needed to bring the CG into line. Engine package is the heaviest component on the airplane, right ?? Moving it forward will bring the CG forward, right ?? Seems to me that moving the engine a couple of inches would have the same effect as moving the battery several feet. When my CG is correct, I'll just cut off the excess engine mount, if any, and bolt it down solid. Neat theory, anyway. My point is, why not do something similar with your 912 ?? I haven't seen the mounts for the 912, but even if they're non-moveable, possibly you could make a plate ( or rails, or something ) that would bolt to the airframe Lord mounts. Set your engine on that, and move it where-ever you want, then drill thru and bolt it down. As I say, I haven't seen the standard set-up, so I throw this out there strictly as food for thought. If you like, I have pics of mine that would really illlustrate what I'm saying. Remember the old saying: "The difficult takes a while, the impossible just takes a little longer." Don't remember who said it, ( Seabees ?? ) but it's not that far off. Especially on airplanes named "Vamoose." Are these things boys or girls ?? Is Vamoose a he, she, or it ?? Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 7:40 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III Battery Location > > Listers, > > As I am using the 912 and I weight 170 pounds I am anticipating that The > CG is going to be a little heavy on the tail end. If I have to add lead > to the front I would like it to be in a battery and useful. ===================================================== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Subject: vg's
Date: Jun 11, 2000
John H. Have you considered relaxing the flaps slightly. Maybe you could add notch of negative flaps for take off. Now there's a wild thought. I remember taking off with one notch of flaps and thinking about the lack of up elevator authority and I guess the extra power of the 912S acts the same way. Some have said elevator gap seals make a big difference. Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hauck Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 2:36 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: vg's > the worst thing in a high thrust line is pitching up on reduced power. If > you lose power in climb you will nose up sharply and might stall. > topher Topher and Gang: Pitch up is easy enough to overcome, push the stick forward. I think overpowering the elevator on takeoff ranks right up there with "the worst thing." I have noticed a notable lack of up elevator authority since upgrading to 912S and 72 inch prop. Especially when flying at gross weight and over on high DA days. Sometimes I think it would be nice having a big prop pull me up and off the ground, rather than using extra power to overcome the high thrust line to break ground. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
> John H. did you put the prop spacer on the 912S? > > Terry Terry and Gang: Yes sir. Put a spacer on the 912 in 1994, after I flew to Sun and Fun without one. When I got to Lakeland I discovered the prop had whacked the back of the leading edge of the left flap. Ouch! I thought maybe the engine had rocked around on a rough landing at Lakeland, but later found out it was hitting at start up. I heard it hit while at S&F. My big problem was there were no spacers except that tube looking thing that Ivo had and I was not going to risk my airplane with that. One of my old airplane friend turned me one a few weeks before I departed for Alaska. It was 1 7/8 inches. The spacer on the 912S I got from Ronnie Smith, SMLA. It is 2 inches. When I mounted the 912 and the 912S I moved the engine as far forward and as low as I could get away with. I believe in lowering the thrust line as much as possible. Have had no prop strikes since adding extension. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: vg's
> Have you considered relaxing the flaps slightly. Maybe you could add notch > of negative flaps for take off. Some have said elevator gap seals make a big difference. > > Terry I have the ailerons and flaps reflexed slightly. However, the flaps naturally are lowered at flying speeds. I think I will try the gap seals on the elevators and rudder. I got some book binding tape from the Factory to do my door hinge line. It will be easy enough to install. Maybe make a difference. The horizontal stabilizers are already flying in a negative angle which also help keep the tail down a little on take off. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
Date: Jun 11, 2000
I believed it would be necessary to mount the battery forward using the 912. I also went to the full-swivel tailwheel, which added two pounds at the rearmost extremity. I also modified the rudder to have a small extension forward of the hinge line. I thought some aerodynamic balance to the rudder would make a trim tab more effective. It also provides an internal location for about 11 oz. of lead for static balance. So to mount the battery in the nose cone, I built up the bottom and sides of the nose cone with fiberglass cloth and mat so it would support the battery, and built in a battery tray/retainer to hold the battery in place, lying flat. I built it to the size of the Powersonic 12180, the 18ah size. I modified some auto battery holddowns to clamp it in place. The biggest problem was hooking it up after mounting the nose cone. The nose cone is bolted on with 3/16 bolts. I just got it on about an hour ago. I grounded the master switch line and the contactor clicked. Then I touched the power lead for the EIS to the main power cable and the EIS lit up like Christmas. Hot dog! This thing might actually fly. And if it ends up nose-heavy, I'll just wrap some lead foil around the tailwheel spring.....;<) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Re: Flying Speeds
Date: Jun 11, 2000
For John H.----Firehawk Arrived back in Oplieka about the same time your 3 flying buddies arrived-you all must have flown to S Carolina for breakfast? Firehawk we enjoyed the chow you recommended -all 4 of us had it for lunch-right after you all took off! Just checking mail and aware of your cow pasture-remember the approach distance on a 747 is 250 miles. Driving motorhome around Atlanta towing a bug-with 18 wheelers passing on each side at 90 MPH plus is like landing a Mark 3 in a 25 knot crosswind.Lanes only 11 Feet wide now--last year 12'.Depth perception training today will help in future. Noticed Mark 3 at flyin had Co-pilot Electronic Compass installed--These sell in Wal-Mart for 49.93---but I bought 3 on sale at $25 ea.--followed directions on ground -found compass to be 20 degrees off--took of -did 2 -360 slow turns to let the compass find itself--cross checked with GPS--still 20 degrees off. Directions -or better put no way to correct or adjust/calibrate compass.About all it is good for is a timer-Have tried to contact manufacture---Precision Navigation (in Calif. someplace) Telephone 1-888-422-6672--no luck other than answering machine recorded message to date. Do not recommend anyone buying one even at Sale price of $25 until a fix is available to adjust/correct/calibrate compass.The Mark 3 at flyin had same problem approx. 20 degrees off See you next weekend. Lindy LA-Lower Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2000
From: Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Aileron Gap Seal with Bookbinding Tape
I am about to put on the aileron gap seal on my Firestar and have purchased the recommended bookbinding tape. However, I have a couple of questions. 1. Do I need to seal the full length of the aileron tube or just the outer section where the aileron is? 2. Can I seal just between the hinges or do I have to make it continous over the hinges? Any tips on cutting and handling the tape to make things go easier? If anyone has some close up photos of the bookbinding aileron gap, I would appreciate seeing them. Thanks. -- **************************************************** * Bill Weber * Thunder's just the noise * * Simi Valley, CA * Lightning does the work * **************************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
Date: Jun 12, 2000
I may be risking a war here, but seems to me from looking at mine, that if you were to make the inner edge of the flap square, rather than angled in, you'd have all the room you needed to move the engine. I'm persisting only because it seems like this is a constant concern, and has come up repeatedly over time. Instead of forever building something that's going to be marginal for aft CG, why not plan on it from the get-go ?? And please - I'm not pointing a finger at anyone in particular - this has come up many times. All right guys, have at 'er. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Terry <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 4:20 PM Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Mark III Battery Location > > Lar > > The biggest problem moving the 912 forward is having enough room left for > the prop to turn. I've considered adding a prop spacer to move the warp > drive back, some have said it will lower the prop noise. But the pro's and > con's of adding spacers have been discussed to some length in previous post. > John H. did you put the prop spacer on the 912S? > > Terry > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bourne > Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 3:23 PM > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Battery Location > > > > Think I've said this before, but let's try again. My engine is quite a bit > heavier than the 912's, and CG is a major concern. With this in mind, when > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
You DO have a gift for obvious solutions, don't you? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >I may be risking a war here, but seems to me from looking at mine, that if >you were to make the inner edge of the flap square, rather than angled in, >you'd have all the room you needed to move the engine. I'm persisting only >because it seems like this is a constant concern, and has come up repeatedly >over time. Instead of forever building something that's going to be >marginal for aft CG, why not plan on it from the get-go ?? And please - >I'm not pointing a finger at anyone in particular - this has come up many >times. All right guys, have at 'er. Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Subject: Re: vg's
In a message dated 00-06-11 8:31:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes: << I got some book binding tape from the Factory to do my door hinge line. It will be easy enough to install. Maybe make a difference. >> John: I am a big supporter of gap seals. I have fully gap sealed the entire tail on my mark three and have no problems with control authority. My suggestion to you is that you NOT use book binding tape. A buddy of mine used it on his challenger. It looked great to start, but after a while the tape started to shrink and as it shrunk it left the adhesive from the tape on the fabric. That, in turn, attracted dirt and after a while it looked like hell. After a couple of years the tape yellowed from the UV and started to crack and the exhaust and dirt stuck in the exposed adhesive. It was a real mess to clean up. In my view the right way to do it is just like the stitts manual says which is to take 2 inch straight tapes and paint them with a brush with your stitts color. Then carefully poly tack them in. This is quite a bit more work, but it will look good forever and you won't be kicking yourself in a year or two. Mark R. Sellers Kolb Twinstar Mark III N496BM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: vg's
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Here I go again..............Mark, you're absolutely right ! ! ! This subject has come up many times too, and so has the comment about the bookbinding tape shrinking and leaving a dirty line. I haven't had any experience with bookbinding tape, but I HAVE spent a LOT of time around and working on boats in the NorthWest. Sail repair tape is made in some colors, it's dacron, I believe rip-stop, very strong, real sticky, and I can't recall ever seeing any of it shrink. Anyone have any other experience with it ?? There's no question the Stits tape, and PolyFiber coating is the best way to go, but as you say, it IS a lot of work. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 7:28 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: vg's > > In a message dated 00-06-11 8:31:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes: > > << I got > some book binding tape from the Factory to do my door hinge > line. It will be easy enough to install. Maybe make a > difference. >> > > John: > > I am a big supporter of gap seals. I have fully gap sealed the entire > tail on my mark three and have no problems with control authority. My > suggestion to you is that you NOT use book binding tape. A buddy of mine > used ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
In a message dated 6/12/00 12:38:08 AM, hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes: << My big problem was there were no spacers except that tube looking thing that Ivo had and I was not going to risk my airplane with that >> Hi John, Thanks for your informative post. (As usual.) I had an Ivo spacer and prop. When I switched to the Powerfin I needed to have it cut down to accommodate the thicker housing on the Powerfin and maintain the same distance from the flange. Machine shop simply cut one end and I ended up with a vibration. Had the spacer checked again and found that the walls were not parallel. It is just a piece of tubing. Had the faces trued to each other and it is fine. If anyone needs a spacer, get a machine shop to make a "real" one. Bill George Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
by smtp102.urscorp.com (Lotus Domino Release 5.0.2c (Intl)) with ESMTP id 2000061212423006":181344(at)matronics.com;
Subject: Re: prop noise, gear boxes, etc
Date: Jun 12, 2000
2000) at 06/12/2000 12:49:48 PM, Itemize by SMTP Server on SMTP102/URSCorp(Release 5.0.2c (Intl)|2 February 2000) at 06/12/2000 12:42:30 PM, Serialize by Router on SMTP102/URSCorp(Release 5.0.2c (Intl)|2 February 2000) at 06/12/2000 12:43:47 PM, Serialize complete at 06/12/2000 12:43:47 PM Got a message offline from Boyd Young, suggesting that Muffler noise might be part of my noise problem. Thought I would share my reply with the List. Thanks for the response Boyd. For me at least, it appears the noise is primarily from the prop, not the muffler. Up until a few months ago, I was using an older style Titan-type muffler that had a large expansion area. Exhaust manifold pipes kept cracking, so I laid out a bunch of cash for the new Titan-type 912 muffler. No cracking, but still noisy for people on the ground. After experimenting some with the prop pitch, my best guess now is the disturbed air theory. That 912 has got to make a mess of the air flowing by it, and the clearance between the flaps and prop is pretty tight, as Mr. Hauck has indicated. When I had my prop extension made I was really worried about having it too long and damaging the gear box, so I minimized it at two inches. It would be interesting to try a 4-inch extension to see how that affected noise, but Im unwilling to pay for that bit science at this point. A different prop might be the ticket as well, but geez I paid a lot for that warp drive. By the way, I just completed the 3-day 912 engine class from Eric Tucker, which was very worthwhile. Eric indicated that my 72-inch Warp Drive is definitely on the heavy side for the gear box. The 72-inch Warp Drive with the enlayed (sp?) Nickel leading edge are even heavier and are to be avoided for that reason according to Eric. Another tid bit: idle speeds should really be up to AT LEAST 1600 rpm or more. Lower idle speeds really strain the gear box hardware due to the pulses of power from the engine that smooth out at higher RPM. Notice how awful the 912 sounds and feels just as it starts up? Thats the pulsing at very low rpm. Oh my god, (sorry, I mean gosh) its starting to sound like I know what Im talking about. Erich Weaver erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com 5383 Hollister Avenue, Suite 120 Santa Barbara, California 93111 805-683-0200 805-683-0201 fax ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Volum" <ibimiami(at)msn.com>
Subject: vg's
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Rich Bragassa who finished building a beautiful Mk III (but who is no longer on the list), used sail repair tape with very good results. There should be a couple of posts from him about this subject in the archives. PV Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" Here I go again..............Mark, you're absolutely right ! ! ! This subject has come up many times too, and so has the comment about the bookbinding tape shrinking and leaving a dirty line. I haven't had any experience with bookbinding tape, but I HAVE spent a LOT of time around and working on boats in the NorthWest. Sail repair tape is made in some colors, it's dacron, I believe rip-stop, very strong, real sticky, and I can't recall ever seeing any of it shrink. Anyone have any other experience with it ?? There's no question the Stits tape, and PolyFiber coating is the best way to go, but as you say, it IS a lot of work. Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Asusa nylon wheels
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Hi Kolbers, Does anyone have any experience with the Asusalite nylon wheels? Considering using them and painting to match plane. Aircraft Spruce advertises them as being much lighter (60~70%) than aluminum wheels and the cost is about 22 dollars cheaper for the pair. I have the original steel wheels that came in the earlier Firestar kits. Thanks. Later, John Cooley Building FS II #1162 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2000
From: Paul VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net>
Subject: Re: vg's
Big Lar, We used the Sail repair tape on the aileron and flap gap seals of our MK III. It is easy to install and looks good. So far, after 39 hrs, it shows no signs of coming off. We will probably use it on the Elevator and Rudder this summer when we get around to doing it (Too Busy Flying It Now :) ). Paul V Larry Bourne wrote: > > > Here I go again..............Mark, you're absolutely right ! ! ! This > subject has come up many times too, and so has the comment about the > bookbinding tape shrinking and leaving a dirty line. I haven't had any > experience with bookbinding tape, but I HAVE spent a LOT of time around and > working on boats in the NorthWest. Sail repair tape is made in some colors, > it's dacron, I believe rip-stop, very strong, real sticky, and I can't > recall ever seeing any of it shrink. Anyone have any other experience with > it ?? There's no question the Stits tape, and PolyFiber coating is the > best way to go, but as you say, it IS a lot of work. Big > Lar. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com> > To: > Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 7:28 AM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: vg's > > > > > In a message dated 00-06-11 8:31:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > > hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes: > > > > << I got > > some book binding tape from the Factory to do my door hinge > > line. It will be easy enough to install. Maybe make a > > difference. >> > > > > John: > > > > I am a big supporter of gap seals. I have fully gap sealed the entire > > tail on my mark three and have no problems with control authority. My > > suggestion to you is that you NOT use book binding tape. A buddy of mine > > used > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Subject: vg's
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Larry I went the easy route. Get some 3 inch wide 2 mil clear tape. Got mine at a shipping place like mailboxes for a coupe bucks. Put it on the bottom of the wings, and ailerons, sprinkle a little baby powder on the exposed adhesive so you don't attract dirt and bugs. Lot easier then trying to stick a narrower piece to the center of the wide piece. Should last at least two years. When it needs replacing, pull it off, wipe of the adhesive with some degreaser like DX-300. and put on the new. Doesn't take long. You will find it comes loose first near the prop. I used 2 inch wide tape the first time which only gives you about one quarter inch of attachment, and that lasted two years. Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bourne Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 10:57 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: vg's Here I go again..............Mark, you're absolutely right ! ! ! This subject has come up many times too, and so has the comment about the bookbinding tape shrinking and leaving a dirty line. I haven't had any experience with bookbinding tape, but I HAVE spent a LOT of time around and working on boats in the NorthWest. Sail repair tape is made in some colors, it's dacron, I believe rip-stop, very strong, real sticky, and I can't recall ever seeing any of it shrink. Anyone have any other experience with it ?? There's no question the Stits tape, and PolyFiber coating is the best way to go, but as you say, it IS a lot of work. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 7:28 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: vg's > > In a message dated 00-06-11 8:31:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes: > > << I got > some book binding tape from the Factory to do my door hinge > line. It will be easy enough to install. Maybe make a > difference. >> > > John: > > I am a big supporter of gap seals. I have fully gap sealed the entire > tail on my mark three and have no problems with control authority. My > suggestion to you is that you NOT use book binding tape. A buddy of mine > used ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Subject: Re: Asusa nylon wheels
In a message dated 00-06-12 3:54:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time, johnc(at)datasync.com writes: << Does anyone have any experience with the Asusalite nylon wheels? >> A friend with a challenger had them. He recently landed crabbed and put a side load on one. It shattered. He has replaced them with metal hubs. Mark R. Sellers Kolb Twinstar Mark III N496BM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Keeboman2(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Subject: 582 oil injection spring
Has anyone w/oil injection had any problems w/ the oil injection lever going back into proper positioning. this is where the cable and the spring are. cant figure out if my spring came unwound during engine rebuild Keebo Dallas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 06/11/00
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Gear Case Oil Fill and Vent: How do you safety wire the Cap? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Hauck's fuel --mixture-
Date: Jun 12, 2000
John H. John the big problem you must plan for-have a solution or alternate solution for is water in the fuel when you mix--believe me water becomes a critical problem-or can become a critical problem-in any/all type engines. Do not what to get into a big technical discussion but as you cross the country you will find different standards established by states on what regular and premium are.I know from testing the fuel --we use here in Lower Alabama--Shell checks out consistently at 93 Octane--next is Amoco-92-Important you read the labels on pumps--some say $% &*&* added to clean your fuel injectors--when you break this down into plain English it is basically soap-and cheap at that.The idea is to get the water to go out the tailpipe.Another thing is in the Wichita Falls ,Texas area-FINA has the refinery--all oil company's tankers fill up there--they add dye---Shell--Actually the Queens family owns all the storage locations world wide so you should find shell in most areas.Check the Rotax manual for recommended octane-not familiar with what they recommend in 912---they probably tested it on alcohol from potatoes to insure it would run worldwide.I remember 232 marketing area's and forget what the Feds require --a blend-for clean air standards-it varies by location.Read the labels on the pumps if you can--you will get educated and save money!The way we made believers in the old days was to take off the carburetor--tell the student pilots we were going to make this engine run on regular gas-they did not believe---remember the old bug/fly sprayer--you pumped and sprayed--this is a simple carburetor--and the engine ran as long as we sprayed fuel into it-then we used one with approx. 5% water mixed it--they got the message-the engine stopped!!!!And would not restart.A word to the wise is sufficient! Remember the rule---on internal combustion engines for every gallon of gas you burn you create a gallon of water--in the engine design the engineers vent the crankcase to get rid of the water--also as you well know we test all fuel before it goes into the Helicopters here at Mother Rucker.A damn good reason for it and it is water--caused by condensation-old fuel--anyother things that humans might do to get rid of fuel on hand. Same problem-different location-that u will face sooner or later in a remote location--water-excessive amount in fuel irrespective of LL. or regular MOGAS..the bottom line the water goes out the tailpipe/exhaust.If the engine will run! In high performance Jet engines--at altitude we pump in the cheapest cracked kerosene we can buy as the basic problem is solved -the engine is running all we have to do is keep it running.--I fully realize turbines operate differently from internal combustion but the chemical change is the same .-mass x velocity change=thrust. Big flap at present time is high fuel costs in mid-West-farmers everyone bitching-Quality of fuel at present????Worst fuel problem -in Zaire when I had my vehicle refueled out of a barrel--got 1/2 80 octane and 1/2 mineral spirits or paint thinner but the Subaru E-71 engine ran but was knocking like hell---that is another basic rule with fuel--I know you cannot hear the engine in the cockpit but Richard L and the rest of the PC Bunch have used 100 LL. for years going cross country.To the best of my knowledge Richard L has never had a problem mixing !( in 447 and 503). Will depart here for Ted's Planetation on Friday morning--forgot to ask u--will you carry approx. 5 special Dodo Bird patches with you on your trip?--remember the Flight of the Vihn Fizz!.If so I will bring with me as I will not see you again before you depart. Lindy Lower Alabama L ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2000
From: Eldon L Morrison <eldon(at)gwi.net>
Subject: Kolb Mark III
We are building a Kolb Mark III Extra and plan to put it on Full Lotus Floats. Looking for other builders who have put Mark III's on floats with amphibious wheels. Is there a supplier of light weight kits to add the wheels to the Full Lotus Floats? What experiences between a tricyle gear and tail dragger configuations are out there? Eldon Morrison eldon(at)gwi.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "flatwood" <flatwood(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Hauck's fuel --mixture-
Date: Jun 12, 2000
sorry if i missed the info but how do we make a donation. i will send $20. -=tab http://questx.com/southernlandings > room. I must give priority to those sponsors who donated > $20 or more. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Arlyn G. Moen" <amoen(at)ndak.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Gap Seal with Bookbinding Tape
Date: Jun 13, 2000
I am using this on my ultrastar. 4" clear book binding tape. I went between the hinges. Just on the under side . Clean the fabric good befor putting it on. It has been on going on 2 years and no sign of needing to be replaced My airplane is always hangered though. ---- Original Message ----- From: Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2000 7:44 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Aileron Gap Seal with Bookbinding Tape > > I am about to put on the aileron gap seal on my Firestar and have > purchased the recommended bookbinding tape. However, I have a couple of > questions. > > 1. Do I need to seal the full length of the aileron tube or just the > outer section where the aileron is? > > 2. Can I seal just between the hinges or do I have to make it continous > over the hinges? > > Any tips on cutting and handling the tape to make things go easier? > > If anyone has some close up photos of the bookbinding aileron gap, I > would appreciate seeing them. > > Thanks. > > -- > **************************************************** > * Bill Weber * Thunder's just the noise * > * Simi Valley, CA * Lightning does the work * > **************************************************** > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Hauck's fuel --mixture-
> sorry if i missed the info but how do we make a donation. i will send $20. "flatwood" Flatwood and Gang: Info follows: You can find a copy of the patch on my web pages on The New Kolb Aircraft Company web site. There is a web page dedicated to donating and receiving a patch. https://www.kih.net/kolb/kolbgear/patch.htm Your help is very much appreciated. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R. Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Hey Big Lar: My concern was with the flap tube not the flap itself.. With the 912 and a warp drive 72" I am only clearing the tube about 3",but a long from the flap itself , no room for flex, but the warp doesn't have any.. But sure can't move the engine forward any.. Hope this explains something.. RH MK3 912 N912RH - Original Message ----- > I may be risking a war here, but seems to me from looking at mine, that if > you were to make the inner edge of the flap square, rather than angled in, > you'd have all the room you needed to move the engine. . All right guys, have at 'er. Big Lar. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2000
From: Randy Settle <rsettle(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Hauck's fuel --mixture-
> You can find a copy of the patch on my web pages > on The New Kolb Aircraft Company web site. There is a web > page dedicated to donating and receiving a patch. > > https://www.kih.net/kolb/kolbgear/patch.htm > > Your help is very much appreciated. > > john h > Did it today! John, You the Man...good luck and be safe! Randy & Val Settle Original Firestar 377 The Lazair News Letter http://www.flash.net/~rsettle/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N51SK(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Subject: parts for older Kolbs
Hey list, The other day I lost the tailwheel off my Mk2. Anybody know where I might get one or some kind of replacement for the original? Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: Parting out FS II
Date: Jun 12, 2000
Dear Kolbers: I find it necessary to part out my Kolb Firestar II following a particularly hard landing. The parts that are no good are the landing gear legs, fuselage pod, nose cone, and fuselage tube for sure. The parts that need minor repairs are the wings (need new aileron balancers and strut mounting tangs / there is no damage to the fabric, ribs, or spars) The remainder of the parts are not damaged, including a 503 DCDI Rotax and ground adjustable Ivo Prop Additional parts that were added but not included in the kit are: Front and rear aviation quality 4 point harnesses (saved my life!) E.I.S. Altimeter Air speed indicator with pitot tube Compass Fuel tank sender probe BRS 5 (new canister type) 750 with harness Full swivel steerable tailwheel with compression springs Ameri-King ELT HPC coated exhaust system Drum brakes A custom built open trailer to accommodate the FS II There are less than 5 total hours on all systems...so give away prices should not be expected, but deeply discounted offers are being solicited. Great plane with a not so great pilot. E-mail me direct for parts availability, amount you are offering, and present list prices for percentage comparison. I will consider all offers and promise to not get insulted as long as you don't. FRANK HODSON: OXFORD MAINE fwhodson@megalink.net http://www.megalink.net/~fwhodson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "flatwood" <flatwood(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Hauck's fuel --mixture-
Date: Jun 12, 2000
will do. thanks. wish i was going with you!! good luck!! > > > > sorry if i missed the info but how do we make a donation. i will send $20. > > "flatwood" > > Flatwood and Gang: > > Info follows: > > > You can find a copy of the patch on my web pages > on The New Kolb Aircraft Company web site. There is a web > page dedicated to donating and receiving a patch. > > https://www.kih.net/kolb/kolbgear/patch.htm > > > Your help is very much appreciated. > > john h > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 11, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Asusa nylon wheels
John, I have used Asusalitewheels on other ultralights and they have one problem: They flex so much that they pinch the tube and leak. After having steel and aluninum on my Kolbs, I wouldn't go back. John Jung John Cooley wrote: > > Hi Kolbers, > Does anyone have any experience with the Asusalite nylon wheels? > snip.... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
no room for flex, but the warp doesn't have any.. But sure > can't move the engine forward any.. > Hope this explains something.. > > RH MK3 912 RH and Gang: Can't speak for your 72" Warp not flexing, but my 70" Warp flexed into the flap leading edge tube on start up on the 912 in 1994. I wrote about that a short time ago, or maybe that was in a bc msg to one of you guys. Had no problem with prop blades hitting flap except during start up when there was no much centrifugal force to help keep the blades in line. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: parts for older Kolbs
> The other day I lost the tailwheel off my Mk2. Anybody know where I might > get one or some kind of replacement for the original? > Steve Steve: Try TNK. The MK III tailwheel should probably work. I just gave a friend the strut and tailwheel assembly off my old Firestar to put on his Ultrastar. It worked. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2000
From: Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net>
Subject: vg's
tonite I installed vg's 8 1/2'' up from the leading edge center. I put 13 on each wing. Upon take off the impression immediately was of stability. The plane seemed more solid. Using 4000 rpm, my stall speeds were -clean-34-33, and with 1/2 flap and full flap was around 30-29. The prop lets you know you're real close to stalling by its burbling and buzzing. The stall is even more of a non event than before, just a nod up and down. Slow flight is rock solid And fun. Why the same stall speed at 1/2 and full flaps? Next I'll relocate the row of vg's that are 15'' back to 81/2''like my new ones, install gap tapes, and a row of vg's under my horz stabilizer. Those dammed powered chutes still flew slower than me and they turn tighter too. Also the clime angle at 35 mph is a real kick. Without a guage I can't supply a number, but I used my favorite runway as for all these flights and I have never been at pattern altitude at midfield untill tonight. Nearly calm wind too. Any way, You don't need an aoa guage on this plane because the prop tells you to put the nose down a little once you learn to listen. Mk3 582 warp w/ stainless c-box. and 26 vg's. Keep it coming. Topher, your imput is great. Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2000
From: Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net>
Subject: spelling.
Sorry about not doing spell check on my other message. Do not archive. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Batteries
With all the questions about batteries and the 912S lately, here's just a little info on what works with the 2-cycles: I have used a 12N7-3B motorcycle battery in my MKIII since it was new, and it spins the 532 over great winter or summer. It makes 7 amp-hours, and weighs 5 pounds. It is located on those little tab brackets just behind the passenger seat. With the 532/582, that works out about right for the CG. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2000
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: vg's
Howdy all, I just read thru all the VG thread. Pretty interesting comments there. I recall someone earlier mentioning posting specific info on where to mount vgs, best vg shape, etc, but I've not ever seen that particular information. Can anyone repost where (if) that is? Mounting location of course will differ with airplane and I have the impression that most of the experience with them on this list is with the Mk III. Can anyone (Howard, Dell, others?) post on location of the VGs in terms of % chord? I look forward to trying them on my Firestar ...eventually. Also, there was a bit of mention about cleaning up airflow around the engine to feed the prop cleaner air. I made a stab at this once. (see http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/BensAlbum/build/a7cowling.html ) Resulted in no noticable improvement in engine noise, rpms, or performance. However, I think that improvements would likely only be possible if the air flow cleanup was done on back as well as front of the engine. But then there is that big ol muffler can which pretty much louses up the whole idea. :/ -Ben Ransom Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints! http://photos.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
Date: Jun 13, 2000
Guess that ends that, then. I had thought the 912 was longer. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: R. Harris <rharris@magnolia-net.com> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 5:40 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III Battery Location > > Hey Big Lar: > My concern was with the flap tube not the flap itself.. With the 912 and > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: Jun 13, 2000
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
> Can't speak for your 72" Warp not flexing, but my 70" Warp > flexed into the flap leading edge tube on start up on the > 912 in 1994. I wrote about that a short time ago, or maybe > that was in a bc msg to one of you guys. Had no problem > with prop blades hitting flap except during start up when > there was no much centrifugal force to help keep the blades > in line. > > john h Ditto on most engines at low idle with a Warp....it flails but not nearly as much as that other St Vitus prop....... J.Baker ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: Jun 13, 2000
Subject: Re: parts for older Kolbs
> > The other day I lost the tailwheel off my Mk2. Anybody know where I might > > get one or some kind of replacement for the original? I've always wanted to try a snowmobile bogie idler wheel. These things take beating, come in lots of sizes, widths, colors, styles, and they've got bearings pressed into them. Dennis Kirk snow catalog has a bunch of options..... J.Baker ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2000
From: Paul VonLindern <paulv(at)digisys.net>
Subject: Re: parts for older Kolbs
Jim and Kolbers, A snowmobile idler wheel works great. We put one on our MK III just because it looked better than the one that came with the kit. The only problem was we had to have a bushing made for it so it would fit on the tailwheel assembly. Paul V > I've always wanted to try a snowmobile bogie idler wheel. These > things take beating, come in lots of sizes, widths, colors, styles, > and they've got bearings pressed into them. Dennis Kirk snow > catalog has a bunch of options..... > > J.Baker ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III Battery Location
> Ditto on most engines at low idle with a Warp....it flails but not > nearly as much as that other St Vitus prop....... > J.Baker Jim and Gang: Negative. The only flex I encountered was on initial startup, when the engine first fires, the acceleration is great enough to flex the blade into the rear of the leading edge of the flap. Had no problem at low/slow idle with blade flex. Also, this was 6 years ago. Maybe those blades were more flexible than current ones. Just guessing on that. However, I am sold on Warp Drive. Have been flying them since 1993 on my MK III with 582, 912, and 912S with much success. Even though they have sponsored me with props since 1993, I would still use their props if they decided to drop me. My airplane is here today because of my Warp Drive Prop. The reason is spelled out in detail in my article in Experimenter Mag about the 1994 flight. Any other prop would have left me sitting upside down in the Alaska bush. In a couple weeks I will be flying over some of the most remote, uninhabited, hazardous, inhospitable terrain in the world. That little Warp Drive prop will be pushing me right across it and back. Could not get along without it. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com>
Subject: Attn mike sharp
Hey mike if you are still on the list please send me an email. Woody ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: BUG Blast
Hey Kolbers: The BUGs are having a flyin 24 Jun. I plan on flying up there when I leave Gantt International Airport, then back down to the Kolb Factory. Hope to see some of you there or down at Kolb's: BUG Blast 2000 Saturday, June 24, 2000 Lebanon-Springfield Airport, Kentucky The Bluegrass Ultralight Group (BUG) proudly announces its seventh annual fly-in. BUG Blast 2000 promises to be the best yet. Saturday will see ultralight aircraft of all configurations fill the skies around Springfield, KY. Fixed wing, rotorcraft, trikes, parafoils, general aviationyou name it, it will be there! Last year 59 ultralights filled the field, and this year looks even more promising! Springfield is 50 miles from either Louisville or Lexington, near Bardstown, KY. Camping will be available on the field Friday and Saturday nights. Food will be available on site. Hotels and bed & breakfasts can be found within ten miles in Lebanon and Springfield. Shuttles will be available to pilots flying in. For more information, telephone Alan Laymon at (606)734-5965, write to BUG(at)dlmail.ket.org, or visit www.cvb-1.com/BUG. Airport information: Lebanon-Springfield Airport (6I2) Lat/Long: 37-38-00.800N / 085-14-31.800W Elevation: 866 ft. UNICOM: 122.8 Runway: 11/29, 4000 asphalt Airport phone: (606)336-3818 -- David Hempy Internet Database Administrator Kentucky Educational Television -- (606)258-7164 -- (800)333-9764 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2000
From: Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: vg's
Kolbers, I have long wondered about reattatching the airflow around the rear of the fuselage using vortex generators. At Sun & Fun I took some pics of some vr's used for this vary application on a slick biplane amphibian pusher. The designer said it didn't make a big difference on cruise performance but that it did make a significant improvement on the climb rate. Anyway, they have been stuck on my hardrive unable to be opened. I got them opened today. They show the layout in general & close up details. If someone want to put them on their web page, I'll send them to you so the list can check them out. As soon as I can come up for air, I'm going to learn how to build my own! ...Richard Swiderski ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2000
From: Audrey Lewis <audreylewis(at)planters.net>
Subject: Fuel tank wear
Fellow Kolbers, On my Firefly hundred inspection I discovered the 3/16 inch bracing around the fuel tank had worn about half way through the plastic tank. I split 1/4 inch neopream fuel and slipped it on the bracing. This should prevent any further chaffing. One hundred hours and only had to replace one CHT sensor and do normal spark plug changes. It has been pure pleasure all the way! Audrey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 13, 2000
Subject: Re: Parting out FS II
I'd be interested in the flight instuments, give me a price off list! Bill (wingman) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dixieshack(at)webtv.net (orie shackelford)
Date: Jun 14, 2000
Subject: Kolb list--Parting out the Firestar
Hi Frank, "It's me again Margaret"....let me know please what you want for the components on the FS--I need a 503 DCDI for mine. Prefer "C" box w/3.47 ratio..will consider others. May also be interested in the ASI and your trailer. Please respond off-list. PLEASE tell us what happened. Mike (Two Dawgs) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 14, 2000
From: Carlos <chatten(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank wear
Audrey Lewis wrote: > Fellow Kolbers, > > On my Firefly hundred inspection...... "I split 1/4 inch neopream fuel and slipped it on the bracing. " You mean you split a 1/4 inch fuel LINE and put it on bracing? just checking.... - Carlos ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gerken(at)us.ibm.com
Date: Jun 14, 2000
Subject: VG placement question
Topher and Howard and Dell, and others experienced with the VG placement, After what I 've read this week on Dell's experience, this idea came to me. Can you make some generalization concerning VG placement on the wing, based on your training or experience, to help the rest of us Experimenters clear this up and cut thru some of the many possible iterations? Specifically, would it be safe to say that a person should be able to expect good results after placing the VG at the very "top" of the airfoil, as determined when the airfoil was in the flight attitude for the speed range in which you were trying to improve airflow? In other words, if you want to affect stall, find the very highest part of the wing when you are at your present stall speed, and place the VGs there. IF this idea seems valid, finding this highest point is easy: Next flight take your Warp prop protractor along. With engine idle, aircraft in slight descent, fly at the airspeed near stall, and measure the angle the aileron torque tube is making to the ground. Land, duplicate the angle by raising the tail till you see the same angle. Using any bubble-level, you can now find the very highest point on the wing, by setting the bubble level on the top of the wing and moving it fore and aft on the wing until it reads level. The "point" of contact is the highest point. Perhaps one should then adjust the position slightly back, to account for the actual improvement which will happen when the VGs are in place.??? Well, what do you think? at least a good starting point? Jim G "Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers." - Bernhard Haisch, astrophysicist ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "xxx xxx" <markotanninen(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: VG placement question
Date: Jun 14, 2000
Hey, can you get me removed from the Kolb List? I don't know how to do it. Thanks, markotanninen(at)hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2000
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2000
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: antenna
last week i posted an url to my page where i had a picture of the antenna i built. the new antenna (the one in the picture, full dipole configuration) has worked out real well. it took me a couple of installation tries to get it located where the swr was good but after doing that the reports i received were " that is the very best your signal has been, " " loud and clear." i am happy with that, shucks with the old one i was able to talk 120 miles to another plane. the radio i am using has only a 1 watt carrier. i moved the old antenna to the other side of the nose and i am using it for the elt. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2000
Subject: Parts for Original TwinStar?
From: Will M Tatham <wmtatham(at)juno.com>
I'm looking for control stick assembly parts for a TwinStar. Does anyone have a line on an original TwinStar (the open-cockpit version) that has been parted out? Please respond to e-mail address or give me a call. Thanks Will Tatham (419) 423-7075 Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dixieshack(at)webtv.net (orie shackelford)
Date: Jun 16, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 06/15/00
Morning listers. Has anyone out there been able to reach the fella parting out the Firestar following a "hard landing?" I've tried both on and off list and haven't had a reply. Like a dummy I didn't save his e-mail address. Think his name was Frank Hodson but I could be wrong. Hillbilly Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ronoy(at)shentel.net
Date: Jun 16, 2000
Subject: *Real* airplanes
A coupla years ago I sent Dennis S. a newspaper clipping of me and my FireFly with my quote that flying an ultralight was almost as good as flying a real plane. He shot off a quick reply, saying Kolbs WERE Real airplanes. Now that's from The Head Horse's Mouth! Been both places, Bob N. http://members.xoom.com/ronoyer ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2000
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: (no subject)
lets try this again. Hello kolbers, I'am still working on my firestar, 90% done and 60% to go, anyway my question is, I would like to know what most people have done to their dash board surface, mine is painted white by the fellow I bought it from and I'am trying to finish the kit, I would like to have the surface of the Instrument panel be black for reflection purposes, I could paint this with flat black, or my first choice would be something like formica in black that I could cut out the correct size and bond it to the original dash panel, I want this plane to be purrrrrfect. please let me know your Ideas and how you went about planning yours out. thanks, Gary r. voigt s.o.s. (sulton of steel)-----and still cranking those john deere engines ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Flat black works, but I did mine in black wrinkle paint, it looks nice, and hides cosmetic imperfections pretty well. There are several companies that you can buy very fancy wood veneers from also, kind of whatever rows ur boat. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > lets try this again. Hello kolbers, I'am still working >on my firestar, 90% >done and 60% to go, anyway my question is, I would like to >know what most people have done to their dash board surface, > >mine is painted white by the fellow I bought it from and >I'am trying to finish the kit, I would like to have the >surface of the Instrument panel be black for reflection >purposes, I could paint this with flat black, or my first >choice would be something like formica in black that I could > >cut out the correct size and bond it to the original dash >panel, I want this plane to be purrrrrfect. please let me >know your Ideas and how you went about planning yours out. > > thanks, > Gary r. voigt > s.o.s. (sulton of steel)-----and still cranking those > >john deere engines > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Panels
Date: Jun 16, 2000
Reply to Gary Voight. You're lucky ! ! ! I think I'm about 80% done, and 95% to go. The custom touches take soooooo long. Right now I'm building sliding latches out of hard stainless, to hold the gull wing doors open on the ground. Over the past week, I've probably got 5 or 6 hrs. in a S.S. trial piece, and 2 (so far) aluminum patterns based on the 1st try. The super sexy door latch mechanisms I spent umpteen hours lovingly (???) hand crafting on the heavy cardboard patterns just don't fit, now that the permanent lexan is installed. Howcum ?? I Dunno, but they just don't. You shoulda heard the squalling when I realized THAT ! ! ! Any way, for the instrument panel, my effort was to cut away the stock fiberglass blank area, leaving a rim to attach to. Built a cardboard pattern, then a fiberglass wallboard pattern; then an aluminum panel from the patterns. Used the patterns to get instrument placement, etc. down solid before committing. Took the aluminum blank to a local cabinet shop, and had them bond a wood grain formica face to it. He charged $20.00 for the whole job, and it looks beautiful, and no worries about re-finishing in a year or 3. Rivetted a strip of 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/16" aluminum angle on the back side of the lower edge for stiffness, then mounted the whole mess on rubber Cessna style panel mounts from A/C Spruce. Whole thing is very rigid, quite light, and sure looks good. The instruments and radios are insulated from vibration by the rubber mounts. I used a whole catalog full of instruments, but this could be adapted to any configuration. I have pics ( of course ) if you're interested. Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 16, 2000
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel
In a message dated 6/16/00 10:27:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, johndeereantique(at)uswest.net writes: << I would like to have the surface of the Instrument panel be black for reflection purposes, I could paint this with flat black, or my first choice would be something like formica in black that I could cut out the correct size and bond it to the original dash panel, I want this plane to be purrrrrfect. please let me >> I laminated a nice piece of Formica with a wood grain to a piece of 1/16" aluminum, used an EIS [one of my better decisions], ASI, & compass. If I had it to do again, I would extend it out toward the seat a few inches & have it hinged for easy access to the instruments & wiring. I remember reading about this on this list, can't remember who did it. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: RE: Parting out FS II
Date: Jun 16, 2000
Dear Kolbers: Thanks for the responses for FS II parts. I am self employed and am away from home (and my computer) much of the time. If it seems that your requests have not been recognized, not so! I hope to be home again This Sunday afternoon and will write or call everybody who left an e-mail address or phone number. Thanks again: Frank Hodson, Oxford Maine fwhodson@megalink.net http://www.megalink.net/~fwhodson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Mark III
Date: Jun 16, 2000
Haven't seen any answers to this, so here's my .10. Eldon, you'll want to talk to Frank Reynen. He's got tremendous experience with Full Lotus on a Mk III, and he built a custom retract mechanism that's superior to the stock setup. He's at Frank_R_Reynen(at)notes.seagate.com I hope that's up to date, I've had it a couple of years. Anyone ?? Frank's a real nice fella, and very sharp. I hope he doesn't mind me volunteering him, but I feel pretty safe. As I said, a nice guy. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Eldon L Morrison <eldon(at)gwi.net> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 2:33 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb Mark III > > We are building a Kolb Mark III Extra and plan to put it on Full Lotus > Floats. Looking for other builders who have put Mark III's on floats > with amphibious wheels. > > Is there a supplier of light weight kits to add the wheels to the Full > Lotus Floats? > > What experiences between a tricyle gear and tail dragger configuations > are out there? > > Eldon Morrison > eldon(at)gwi.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel
Date: Jun 16, 2000
Great minds run in the same circles. I started to move my panel toward the seat, and balled myself up in complex ways to cover the gap, and support the panel, so left it in the stock location. Just made it a lot larger. The patterns came in handy for this. Switching the altimeter, (longer) and the ASI, (shorter) gave "just" enuf room for my right toes at full left rudder. Putting the radio higher in the panel did the same. Tenny runners only, no big boots in this ride. Sliding the radio out to the balance point, and tilting it toward me made it a natural reach when I'm belted in, and it's also angled to look straight at me. Also made the instruments to the right of the radio easy to see. Tried the hinges, but the radio is too long and interfered with the top of the nose cone, so just made the whole panel quick removeable. Quick disconnects on all wires, tubes, and co-ax's. Took a long time, and much fussing, but I think it's well worth the effort. I really like the rubber mounts. Vibration kills instruments. Have at 'er. Lar. > > If I had it to do again, I would extend it out toward the seat a few inches & > have it hinged for easy access to the instruments & wiring. I remember > reading about this on this list, can't remember who did it. > > Howard Shackleford > FS I > SC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2000
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
IMO, you could get to a darker panel and prrrfection by removing the instruments, fine sanding, then masking off, and spraying in a dark color of choice. DONE, before Y3K. My plane is (was :( ) cub yellow with steel blue trim and I used the same blue for my dash, aka panel, so it seems to have a color scheme and gets the nonreflection goal. If I were to re-arrange my instruments, I would go as Lar, so far as to cut out the existing panel except for the rim, and replace with a new plate of chosen layout, material, and color. One advantage of doing that is that you could unscrew the panel to get to the back of the instruments -- a heckofalot easier than fumbling around blindly trying to feel for connections etc. I would also epoxy the nuts on the back side of the rim so that all you have to fret about is the screws on the front. Like I said at the outset tho, just paint over the white (prrrfectly) and go flying -- upgrading instrument panels is good for December, unless you are Ralph Burlingame. -Ben Ransom --- "Gary r. voigt" wrote: > > > lets try this again. Hello kolbers, I'am still working > on my firestar, 90% > done and 60% to go, anyway my question is, I would like to > know what most people have done to their dash board surface, > > mine is painted white by the fellow I bought it from and > I'am trying to finish the kit, I would like to have the > surface of the Instrument panel be black for reflection > purposes, I could paint this with flat black, or my first > choice would be something like formica in black that I could > > cut out the correct size and bond it to the original dash > panel, I want this plane to be purrrrrfect. please let me > know your Ideas and how you went about planning yours out. > > thanks, > Gary r. voigt > s.o.s. (sulton of steel)-----and still cranking those > > john deere engines > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2000
From: Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: pictures
Hi all, Just a quick note to say that I added a link page to my website with a few pictures I took at the Georgia Sport Flyers Rally this past weekend. I scanned them large so give them time to load. Thought someone might like them. Thanks. Monte http://monte84.home.mindspring.com/page56.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 17, 2000
Subject: Re: Panel
Panel Planners, You got the right idea about making your panel in some anti-glare mode. While I was refurbishing my FSII, Possum suggested that I make the interior of the cockpit as anti-glare as I could since everything would reflect onto the windshield if I didn't. So I did. My whole interior is black in some way - the panel and floor pans are black crinkle finish and the interior sidewalls are flat black auto headliner material (soft, lightweight, and non-reflective). You can see most of this at: http://members.aol.com/ulflyer click on - panel1.jpg My panel is extended toward me about 8 " and I can reach everything on it. It's mounted to the original fiberglass panel with 4 rubber isolators and can be removed for servicing by removing 4 nuts. Works for me. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2000
Subject: Looking for Original TwinStar Parts
From: Will M Tatham <wmtatham(at)juno.com>
I'm looking for control stick assembly parts for a TwinStar. Does anyone have a line on an original TwinStar (the open-cockpit version) that has been parted out? Please respond to e-mail address or give me a call. Thanks. Will Tatham (419) 423-7075 Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 16, 2000
Subject: Maintenance day
Went to the hangar this AM to take advantage of the morning cool. Job one was to patch a cut in the topside outer most panel of my left wing. The cut was made by the sharp edge of the bracket that ties together those two angle braces at the trailing edge. When I built the plane I bent the edge of the bracket over and measured the clearance with a straight edge across the framework that forms the perimeter of the panel. I apparently missed this and after about 50 hours of flying it cut a nice neat 1 1/2" gash in the fabric. The cure was to cut away the surrounding fabric (ouch), use the Roto-tool to grind the sharp edges of the bracket away and cover what was left of the bracket with layer of tape. A fabric patch was then Poly-brushed in place, ironed flat and finished with Polyspray using an airbrush. It looks OK but the new paint seems to be a lighter shade of white. Second item was to install a mirror to help see my flying comrads when they are behind me. I wouldn't have tried this but I saw this little mirror at Pep Boy's and it looked just right. It is sold for clipping on a car visor so that mommas can watch there little ones in the back seat without turning around while driving. It comes with both a suction cup and clip for attachment. It is slightly convex for wide viewing an worked great in the hangar. It was wa-a-y too windy and I ran out of time so I did not get a chance to test it. If it works I will find a better way to attach it and report in later post. One last item. I went to a jetski dealer and looked over their fuel filters. I found one that really looks promising. It is a combination filter and water separator. It has a see- through bowl that displays a red line at the top of any water it traps. Since I don't have a fuel tank sump to drain and those $65 Gascolators look so crude and the Rotax marine part is $37, I ordered one. It is used on engines in the 80 HP range so it should have plenty of flow capacity. I'll cover this in a later post also. Duane the plane in Tallassee, FL FireFly, 447, IVO, full canopy, big wheels. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
> Flat black works, but I did mine in black wrinkle paint, > it looks nice, and hides cosmetic imperfections pretty well. > There are several companies that you can buy very fancy > wood veneers from also, > kind of whatever rows ur boat. > Richard Pike > Richardo and Gang: I did mine just like Richard. Wrinkle paint on .050 alum sheet. Get wrinkle paint at most auto parts stores. Lay it on thick and use a hair dryer to dry it. It was fun watching the stuff start to wrinkle. Mines been on there 8 years and still looks purty good. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dixieshack(at)webtv.net (orie shackelford)
Date: Jun 17, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 06/16/00
I agree with Howard. Made mine using the existing panel area painted with automotie flat black trim paint. Used EIS, ASI and compass. Looks good. Drawback: when belted in I can't reach the panel. Moving the panel face toward the pilot and putting it on hinges or studs to make it removable would also increase the toe room under and behind the panel. I haven't flown yet but will have to wear tenny runners too.....size 12 wide. Too windy to fly in WV Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Date: Jun 17, 2000
If you don't have a hair dryer, just park your car in the sun for a while, spray the panel and put it in your car to dry. Wrinkles up just fine. -----Original Message----- From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Date: Saturday, June 17, 2000 8:16 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: (no subject) > > >> Flat black works, but I did mine in black wrinkle paint, >> it looks nice, and hides cosmetic imperfections pretty well. >> There are several companies that you can buy very fancy >> wood veneers from also, >> kind of whatever rows ur boat. >> Richard Pike >> > >Richardo and Gang: > >I did mine just like Richard. Wrinkle paint on .050 alum >sheet. Get wrinkle paint at most auto parts stores. Lay it >on thick and use a hair dryer to dry it. It was fun >watching the stuff start to wrinkle. Mines been on there 8 >years and still looks purty good. > >john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: pictures
Date: Jun 17, 2000
Sure looks like fun. Is one of those a FireStar with a 912 ?? What a ride that would be. ----- Original Message ----- From: Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 1:17 AM Subject: Kolb-List: pictures > > Hi all, > > Just a quick note to say that I added a link page to my website > with a few pictures I took at the Georgia Sport Flyers Rally this past ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 17, 2000
Subject: Flight test
Arrived at the airport just before sun up, no wind, clear with a 3,000' ceiling. As usual for that time of day I had the whole sky to myself. Rolled my FireFly out, set the hand brake and did a preflight by my list. Enricher on, 20% throttle, pumped squeeze pump to fill the fuel system, 2 solid pumps on the primer, switch on, CLEAR PROP, and pull. She started on the first pull. Today's flight was to confirm the operation of a CHT probe I had to replace, see if my Pep Boys "Baby Watch " mirror would help me see if anyone is behind me and see if my throttle mod would make the throttle hold a setting. The CHT had to be replaced because the ring got crossways on the spark plug and the wire was wrenched off the last time I screwed a new plug in place. The new one was properly installed and after double checking the connections on the back side of the gage it worked AOK in flight. The mirror worked great until the slip-fit mounting vibrated loose dropping it to the cockpit floor. The fix for this will be to make a simple aluminum bracket to replace the original. The concept is good. The throttle setting held good and I was out of test objectives, So-o--o I decided to try some emergency shut down drills. I went to 2,200', cleared the air, cut power to 3,000 rpm and did some tight turns to get the feel of how much I would have to drop the nose to get the speed required to make those turns. I scared myself a couple of times as she headed for mother earth but I learned how to do it and repeated the exercise several times. I then went into a simulated engine out and made some approaches just for practice. All of this took about an hour of hard flying and it was getting to work so I spent another 20 minutes just flying and looking. What a morning.... Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly, 447, Ivo, full canopy, big wheels ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for Original TwinStar Parts
> >I'm looking for control stick assembly parts for a TwinStar. I don't know about used parts but if you need dimensions I will go out and measure mine for you. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2000
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Gang, thanks for all the good ideas, if I used them all I never would get this fs completed. I plan not to cut the original panel out at this time, (I wanna fly) my question is; should I cut out the .050 aluminum and fs panel for my gauges first then paint, or do I paint the aluminum with black wrinkle paint then bond it to the fs panel then cut thru everything at once. your information is greatly appreciated. I will send some pics whenI get a chance. thanks, Gary r. voigt John Hauck wrote: > > > Flat black works, but I did mine in black wrinkle paint, > > it looks nice, and hides cosmetic imperfections pretty well. > > There are several companies that you can buy very fancy > > wood veneers from also, > > kind of whatever rows ur boat. > > Richard Pike > > > > Richardo and Gang: > > I did mine just like Richard. Wrinkle paint on .050 alum > sheet. Get wrinkle paint at most auto parts stores. Lay it > on thick and use a hair dryer to dry it. It was fun > watching the stuff start to wrinkle. Mines been on there 8 > years and still looks purty good. > > john h > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2000
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
sounds like a good Idea. thanks, Gary r. voigt Duncan McBride wrote: > > If you don't have a hair dryer, just park your car in the sun for a while, > spray the panel and put it in your car to dry. Wrinkles up just fine. > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Saturday, June 17, 2000 8:16 AM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: (no subject) > > > > > > >> Flat black works, but I did mine in black wrinkle paint, > >> it looks nice, and hides cosmetic imperfections pretty well. > >> There are several companies that you can buy very fancy > >> wood veneers from also, > >> kind of whatever rows ur boat. > >> Richard Pike > >> > > > >Richardo and Gang: > > > >I did mine just like Richard. Wrinkle paint on .050 alum > >sheet. Get wrinkle paint at most auto parts stores. Lay it > >on thick and use a hair dryer to dry it. It was fun > >watching the stuff start to wrinkle. Mines been on there 8 > >years and still looks purty good. > > > >john h > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Date: Jun 17, 2000
Gary, I recommend you build your panel cut the holes then use shock mount standoffs to mount it. you can get them from Aircraft Spruce pg 258 P/N 10-14700 $3.30ea. Also for greater strength I cut out a second panel just like the first and used it as a backing plate behind the fiberglass nosecone. good luck and have fun Geoff Thistlethwaite -----Original Message----- From: Gary r. voigt <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> Date: Saturday, June 17, 2000 1:50 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: (no subject) > > Gang, thanks for all the good ideas, if I used them all I never >would get this fs completed. >I plan not to cut the original panel out at this time, (I wanna fly) my >question is; should I cut out the .050 aluminum and fs panel for my >gauges first then paint, or do I paint the aluminum with black wrinkle >paint then bond it to the fs panel then cut thru everything at once. >your information is greatly appreciated. I will send some pics whenI >get a chance. > > thanks, > Gary r. voigt > > >John Hauck wrote: > >> >> > Flat black works, but I did mine in black wrinkle paint, >> > it looks nice, and hides cosmetic imperfections pretty well. >> > There are several companies that you can buy very fancy >> > wood veneers from also, >> > kind of whatever rows ur boat. >> > Richard Pike >> > >> >> Richardo and Gang: >> >> I did mine just like Richard. Wrinkle paint on .050 alum >> sheet. Get wrinkle paint at most auto parts stores. Lay it >> on thick and use a hair dryer to dry it. It was fun >> watching the stuff start to wrinkle. Mines been on there 8 >> years and still looks purty good. >> >> john h >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 17, 2000
Subject: Re: Panels
My panel is wood with a nice finish. However, it can't be reached when the shoulder harness is snug and there is no room for any more instruments. I am trying to install the tiny Microair VHF transceiver in the panel and it looks like I will have to make a wooden spacer to pooch it out of the panel aways. The back of it is hitting the inside of the nose cone. Big hassle. So, take your time and try to predict the future in terms of what you might want to stick in there. My panel (looks good, don't work so good) can be seen at: Bill George's Kolb Pg. Bill G Mk-3 582 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2000
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Sorry I got in late on this. If your going to the trouble of making a subpanel you might consider making it out of the instrument plastic Sky Sports sells. The stuff cost about $5 SQ. FT. It is ABS plastic about 1/8" thick, has wrinkle finish on one side and smooth on the other. Very easy to work with and looks GREAT. I did this on our FireFly it has worked out great. > > Gang, thanks for all the good ideas, if I used them all I never >would get this fs completed. >I plan not to cut the original panel out at this time, (I wanna fly) my >question is; should I cut out the .050 aluminum and fs panel for my >gauges first then paint, or do I paint the aluminum with black wrinkle >paint then bond it to the fs panel then cut thru everything at once. >your information is greatly appreciated. I will send some pics whenI >get a chance. > > thanks, > Gary r. voigt > > >John Hauck wrote: > >> >> > Flat black works, but I did mine in black wrinkle paint, >> > it looks nice, and hides cosmetic imperfections pretty well. >> > There are several companies that you can buy very fancy >> > wood veneers from also, >> > kind of whatever rows ur boat. >> > Richard Pike >> > >> >> Richardo and Gang: >> >> I did mine just like Richard. Wrinkle paint on .050 alum >> sheet. Get wrinkle paint at most auto parts stores. Lay it >> on thick and use a hair dryer to dry it. It was fun >> watching the stuff start to wrinkle. Mines been on there 8 >> years and still looks purty good. >> >> john h >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2000
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
thanks for the info. Gary r. voigt Geoff Thistlethwaite wrote: > > Gary, > I recommend you build your panel cut the holes then use shock mount > standoffs to mount it. > you can get them from Aircraft Spruce pg 258 P/N 10-14700 $3.30ea. > Also for greater strength I cut out a second panel just like the first and > used it as a backing plate behind the fiberglass nosecone. > good luck and have fun > Geoff Thistlethwaite > > -----Original Message----- > From: Gary r. voigt <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Saturday, June 17, 2000 1:50 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: (no subject) > > > > > > Gang, thanks for all the good ideas, if I used them all I never > >would get this fs completed. > >I plan not to cut the original panel out at this time, (I wanna fly) my > >question is; should I cut out the .050 aluminum and fs panel for my > >gauges first then paint, or do I paint the aluminum with black wrinkle > >paint then bond it to the fs panel then cut thru everything at once. > >your information is greatly appreciated. I will send some pics whenI > >get a chance. > > > > thanks, > > Gary r. voigt > > > > > >John Hauck wrote: > > > >> > >> > Flat black works, but I did mine in black wrinkle paint, > >> > it looks nice, and hides cosmetic imperfections pretty well. > >> > There are several companies that you can buy very fancy > >> > wood veneers from also, > >> > kind of whatever rows ur boat. > >> > Richard Pike > >> > > >> > >> Richardo and Gang: > >> > >> I did mine just like Richard. Wrinkle paint on .050 alum > >> sheet. Get wrinkle paint at most auto parts stores. Lay it > >> on thick and use a hair dryer to dry it. It was fun > >> watching the stuff start to wrinkle. Mines been on there 8 > >> years and still looks purty good. > >> > >> john h > >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2000
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
that's ok, you have had the best Idea yet, this way I will not have to mess painting anything. thanks, Gary r. voigt jerryb wrote: > > Sorry I got in late on this. If your going to the trouble of making a > subpanel you might consider making it out of the instrument plastic Sky > Sports sells. The stuff cost about $5 SQ. FT. It is ABS plastic about > 1/8" thick, has wrinkle finish on one side and smooth on the other. Very > easy to work with and looks GREAT. I did this on our FireFly it has worked > out great. > > > > > > Gang, thanks for all the good ideas, if I used them all I never > >would get this fs completed. > >I plan not to cut the original panel out at this time, (I wanna fly) my > >question is; should I cut out the .050 aluminum and fs panel for my > >gauges first then paint, or do I paint the aluminum with black wrinkle > >paint then bond it to the fs panel then cut thru everything at once. > >your information is greatly appreciated. I will send some pics whenI > >get a chance. > > > > thanks, > > Gary r. voigt > > > > > >John Hauck wrote: > > > >> > >> > Flat black works, but I did mine in black wrinkle paint, > >> > it looks nice, and hides cosmetic imperfections pretty well. > >> > There are several companies that you can buy very fancy > >> > wood veneers from also, > >> > kind of whatever rows ur boat. > >> > Richard Pike > >> > > >> > >> Richardo and Gang: > >> > >> I did mine just like Richard. Wrinkle paint on .050 alum > >> sheet. Get wrinkle paint at most auto parts stores. Lay it > >> on thick and use a hair dryer to dry it. It was fun > >> watching the stuff start to wrinkle. Mines been on there 8 > >> years and still looks purty good. > >> > >> john h > >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 18, 2000
Subject: Instrument panels
When I mounted all the instuments in my panel I noticed that all those big holes had weakened the panel. If I had it to do over again I would seriously consider using the instruments that are mounted using four little screws instead of the clamp-in type that are now on my plane. I'm sure it takes longer to drill the screw holes but the overall panel integity may be worth it if the instruments are crowded together. I suspect that the single panel display would also be an answer. Mine is still holding together after 64 hours but it's worth thinking about. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: MK III for sale
Date: Jun 18, 2000
Hey Gang, If anyone is interested in a Mark III with 582 there is one for sale in North Carolina. IT was just reposted the other day at
http://www.barnstormers.com/ABC/ABC9900/ultr9900.html . Was asking 12,500 for it and now is asking 10,500. It is a 1993 model with quick build option and he has digital pictures that he can send or If you would like to contact me off list I will forward them to anyone interested. Later, John Cooley Building FS II #1162 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2000
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Panels
Looked at Bill's page, his panel looks nice. By comparison our FireFly panel is cramped to his. We used the instrument panel plastic I had described in previous message. Couldn't of done it with wood I don't think. FireFly panel is much smaller than the FireStar. Bill brings up a good point. Watch the placement of the instruments for clearance with the curve shape of the nose cone behind the panel. Don't forget depth for the pitot fittings on the back of the Airspeed/Altimeter. jerryb > >My panel is wood with a nice finish. However, it can't be reached when the >shoulder harness is snug and there is no room for any more instruments. I am >trying to install the tiny Microair VHF transceiver in the panel and it looks >like I will have to make a wooden spacer to pooch it out of the panel aways. >The back of it is hitting the inside of the nose cone. Big hassle. So, take >your time and try to predict the future in terms of what you might want to >stick in there. >My panel (looks good, don't work so good) can be seen at: HREF="http://members.aol.com/wgeorge737/kolbpage/kolbplane.html">Bill >George's Kolb Pg. > >Bill G > >Mk-3 582 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net>
Subject: patch cord helmet
Date: Jun 18, 2000
Does anyone know if they make a patch cord for a helicopter helmet that would work with a Motorola dps radio. This helmet has a single male pin. Thanks Randy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: formica
> Thankfully they > don't make that hideous old "wrinkle paint" stuff in laminate. BB BB and Gang: Glad those judges at Sun and Fun 1993 and Oshkosh 1993 did not feel the same way. I still like my "hideous old wrinkle paint" after more than 8 yrs and 1,390.3 flight hours. Hope to be looking at it for a long time to come. :-) john h (getting ready to swap 100F+ for 30s and 40Fs) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
> I recommend you build your panel cut the holes then use shock mount > standoffs to mount it. > you can get them from Aircraft Spruce pg 258 P/N 10-14700 $3.30ea. > Geoff Thistlethwaite Gang: I used some spare Rotax radiator shock mounts that had broken one stud off. Drilled and tapped the broken part of 10-32. Got some nice ss screws and mounted panel on four broken shock mounts. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 18, 2000
Subject: Tire pressure ??
I need an opinion - I'm using the usual 15 x 6.00 - 6" tires and rims on my FSII. I usually fly from grass but , at times, I visit airports with asphalt. What tire pressure should I be using? Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2000
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument panels
Here's what we have in our FireFly panel using subpanel mounting method: The subpanel is same size as the original panel and is held by 6 small shock mount standoff sold by Sky Sport along with the wrinkle plastic material we used for the subpanel. While the FireFly panel is smaller than the FireStar, you'll be surprised what you can get in it if you lay it out right. The way I wired it, I can remove the panel in about 5 minutes. There are connectors to the EIS, and another Molex for other wires leaving the panel. The pitot system has a small plastic disconnect. Works great, looks even better. 2-1/4" Air Speed 3-1/8" Altimeter 2-1/4" VSI (Electric Varoimeter) 2-1/4" G-Meter Larger EIS w/the big red warning light - by Grand Rapids Tech. Hobbs Meter 4-DC Power Switches > >When I mounted all the instuments in my panel I noticed that all those big >holes had weakened the panel. If I had it to do over again I would seriously >consider using the instruments that are mounted using four little screws >instead of the clamp-in type that are now on my plane. I'm sure it takes >longer to drill the screw holes but the overall panel integity may be worth >it if the instruments are crowded together. I suspect that the single panel >display would also be an answer. Mine is still holding together after 64 >hours but it's worth thinking about. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2000
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: prop balance
well guys, I need more info. thanks for all the good panel information, I could not wait to get my prop out of the box and mount it when it came time. after I mounted it and was preparing to torque it down to 22 ft. lbs. opps!!! I mean 11 ft. lbs. snap!!! thank god for the crush plate. I think I read this as 20 newton meters, not lbs. anyway I ordered all new 6 drilled head bolts. I have a 66" wood Tennessee prop, I know about how to check it for run-out when it's mounted, but ralph mentioned to me that I have to also check it for balance when it is off the engine, so he gave me this prop balancer which he received with his kit in 1985. it is a long piece of string with a spacer that goes through the hub with a tiny level at the bottom. the idea is to put the string through the prop and hang it from a cup hook or eyebolt somewhere inside the house where there is no wind, the spacer fills the center of the prop, and with the tiny level at the bottom it is supposed to tell you which end is heavy and then you just add weight to the opposite side as in paint or nail polish, I hope your getting the Idea. Is there an easier way to go about this, and/or how critical is this and what is acceptable. my prop was still moving in the morning and it was not level. I write protocols and machine qualifications all the time at work, and this method would not even come close to passing because there is too much operator error involved. I can make the prop level by playing with the system and that is failure in my book. can I pay someone to balance this prop. frustrated Gary!!! Gary r. voigt ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2000
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument panels
Jerry, would you by any chance have a pic you could send me of your panel. also would you recommed the 2" gauges or the 3". I see you have done both. thanks, Gary r. voigt jerryb wrote: > > Here's what we have in our FireFly panel using subpanel mounting method: > The subpanel is same size as the original panel and is held by 6 small > shock mount standoff sold by Sky Sport along with the wrinkle plastic > material we used for the subpanel. While the FireFly panel is smaller than > the FireStar, you'll be surprised what you can get in it if you lay it out > right. The way I wired it, I can remove the panel in about 5 minutes. > There are connectors to the EIS, and another Molex for other wires leaving > the panel. The pitot system has a small plastic disconnect. Works great, > looks even better. > > 2-1/4" Air Speed > 3-1/8" Altimeter > 2-1/4" VSI (Electric Varoimeter) > 2-1/4" G-Meter > Larger EIS w/the big red warning light - by Grand Rapids Tech. > Hobbs Meter > 4-DC Power Switches > > > > >When I mounted all the instuments in my panel I noticed that all those big > >holes had weakened the panel. If I had it to do over again I would seriously > >consider using the instruments that are mounted using four little screws > >instead of the clamp-in type that are now on my plane. I'm sure it takes > >longer to drill the screw holes but the overall panel integity may be worth > >it if the instruments are crowded together. I suspect that the single panel > >display would also be an answer. Mine is still holding together after 64 > >hours but it's worth thinking about. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________ User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630)
Date: Jun 18, 2000
Subject:
From: Pam & Scott Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org>
In some of the postings I read , there seem to be some concern about transporting your Kolb . I've done it for a number of years once or twice a year. Hauling it for many miles ,with no trouble . A few years ago we were out at the Yankee fly in . A big storm was coming , and we were away from the field . We got back to the field , and my wife and I had the my MKIII folded and in the trailer less then 6 minutes (not ready for transport). That's one of the many nice things about owning a Kolb . It's nice to trailer, we haul our camper on the back of our truck and pull the plane behind(Makes the wife happy). In trailering, there's always a risk (loading and unloading) of a little trailer rash. It's worth it! --Scott Trask N38ST (UP of Michigan) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Flight To Barrow
Hey Gang: Just discovered I can access my normal email account thru the internet. So, if you guys have a msg for me, send it to my normal hawk36(at)mindspring.com address, or if it is of interest to the majority of the Kolb List, maybe they will let you send it there. When I have access to a computer and the internet I will take time and try to answer. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "flatwood" <flatwood(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Alaska Trip
Date: Jun 18, 2000
this is great!! i've bookmarked the John Hauck Adventures webpage and sent in for my patch!! good luck, good speed and best wishes for a successful adventure!! -=tab crabb lebanon, tn
http://questx.com/southernlandings ----- Original Message ----- From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> > page that has the map of the North American continent: > > http://www.tnkolbaircraft.com/wheresjohn.htm > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Tire pressure ??
I try and keep the MKIII at 20 pounds, grass or asphalt. Richard Pike MKIII N420P{ (420ldPoops) > >I need an opinion - I'm using the usual 15 x 6.00 - 6" tires and rims on my >FSII. I usually fly from grass but , at times, I visit airports with asphalt. >What tire pressure should I be using? > >Charlie > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 18, 2000
From: Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: building a web page
Kolbers, Someone was kind enough to send me an address for building a web page. I lost that letter, sure would appreciate it if you'd send it again, who ever you are! I can't remember the last time I was so forgetful. Thanks. ...Richard S ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: The conclusion to my FS II saga
Date: Jun 19, 2000
Dear Kolbers: I'm sorry for taking so long to reply to your inquires, business keeps me away from home to often. All parts of the Firestar have less than five hours use and are basically brand new. I am asking 40% less than my original invoice costs for each part. Shipping costs would be the responsibility of the purchaser. The parts that remain unsold are; -Full swivel/steerable tailwheel (Aircraft Spruce P/N L 693) wt: 3# My cost: $223 Your cost: $133 -Replacement tailwheel for above (unused/new) My cost: $17.50 Your cost: $10 -Ameri-King AK 450 ELT (uses standard alkaline batteries) My cost: $189 Your cost: $113 -The BRS-5 has a repack date of 09/04 My cost: $2148 Your cost: $1288 -503 Rotax DCDI (S/N 5170733)With 'B' reduction box and HPC treated exhaust system, and 2-blade IVO ground adjustable prop with ss leading edge (There was no engine damage or prop strike) . My cost: $3450 Your cost: $2070 -EIS system. My cost: $980 Your cost: $588 (includes probes) -Open 'T' trailer including winch, ramps, and wheeled tongue jack. My cost: $1200 Your cost: $720 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: The conclusion of my FS II saga
Date: Jun 19, 2000
Dear Kolbers: I'm sorry for taking so long to reply to your inquires, business keeps me away from home to often. All parts of the Firestar have less than five hours use and are basically brand new. I am asking 40% less than my original invoice costs for each part. Shipping costs would be the responsibility of the purchaser. The parts that remain unsold are; -Full swivel/steerable tailwheel (Aircraft Spruce P/N L 693) wt: 3# My cost: $223 Your cost: $133 -Replacement tailwheel for above (unused/new) My cost: $17.50 Your cost: $10 -Ameri-King AK 450 ELT (uses standard alkaline batteries) My cost: $189 Your cost: $113 -The BRS-5 has a repack date of 09/04 My cost: $2148 Your cost: $1288 -503 Rotax DCDI (S/N 5170733)With 'B' reduction box and HPC treated exhaust system, and 2-blade IVO ground adjustable prop with ss leading edge (There was no engine damage or prop strike) . My cost: $3450 Your cost: $2070 -EIS system. My cost: $980 Your cost: $588 (includes probes) -Open 'T' trailer including winch, ramps, and wheeled tongue jack. My cost: $1200 Your cost: $720 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2000
From: "JOHN M. COOLEY" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: The conclusion of my FS II saga
Frank, I would like to buy the engine and prop combo if your confident that there is no damage to it. It is oil injected isn't it? Do you have a crate or do you know how to ship it. Let me know what the shipping cost would be. Thanks, John Cooley ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Benson" <jimben(at)clear.lakes.com>
Subject: Re: building a web page
Date: Jun 19, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 10:42 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: building a web page > > > Kolbers, > > Someone was kind enough to send me an address for building a web > page. I lost that letter, sure would appreciate it if you'd send it > again, who ever you are! I can't remember the last time I was so > forgetful. Thanks. ...Richard S Richard S. There is also a site that you can build up a web site at http://xoom.com/home/ that someone recently had on the list. Jim Benson Mark III ss:224, 62 hrs, Glencoe MN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 19, 2000
Subject: Re: The conclusion to my FS II saga
any pictures of the trailer available? I'm guessin it's open? Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: The conclusion of my FS II saga
Date: Jun 19, 2000
>-Full swivel/steerable tailwheel (Aircraft Spruce P/N L 693) wt: 3# >My cost: $223 Your cost: $133 > > >-Replacement tailwheel for above (unused/new) >My cost: $17.50 Your cost: $10 If you still have it go ahead and sign me up for the tail wheel and extra wheel. If you can send the tail gear leg and any mods you made to get the tailwheel onto the Firestar it would save me figuring it out. Thanks Chris Armstrong. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "xxx xxx" <markotanninen(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 06/18/00
Date: Jun 19, 2000
please delete me from the list, thanks, markotanninen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "xxx xxx" <markotanninen(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 06/18/00
Date: Jun 19, 2000
please delete me from the list, thanks, markotanninen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net>
Subject: Firestar
Date: Jun 20, 2000
Has anyone ever towed a Firestar with the wings folded by the tail wheel. I have about 1 mile to tow it to the airstrip and was trying to avoid putting it on a trailer. I thought I could make a bracket to hold the tail wheel and slide it into the 2" receiver. Thanks Randy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dixieshack(at)webtv.net (orie shackelford)
Date: Jun 20, 2000
Subject: Tundra tires
G'morning Kolbers.....I'm getting near completion with FSII number 1257 and after reading the advice from those of you that have gone before me, have toyed with the notion of larger tires on the Firestar. It has the larger factory option installed now although my field is fairly rough and the larger tires handle bumps better or so I hear and the chances for nose over in off-field landings are lessened with the larger diameter "tundra" tires. Any first-hand pros and cons? Where is the best source for the tundras and what size best applies to the Firestar? The catalogs that I've seen and tire shops that I've looked at carry ATV tires that are HEAVY!! Also need a good 503 DCDI w/"C" box and 3.47. Frank Hodson's was wrong box and ratio....by the time correct parts were installed....and wrong parts sold....you get the picture. Trying to sell a pickup to avoid going to the bank for the 503. Selling the truck would also avoid legal fees.....("either it goes or I go") could go either way.... Blue skys... Hillbilly in a glider. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Internet Connectivity To Matronics Restored...
Date: Jun 20, 2000
Hi, Matt, I hope you can help me. My name is Dennis Rowe and I have been receiving the Kolb list for a couple weeks now. In this time I have attempted to post a couple messages to the list at kolb-list(at)maltronics.com. These messages never make it on the list, nor do they bounce back to me. They must be going somwhere else. What gives? What am I doing wrong? Denny Rowe rowedl(at)alltel.net -----Original Message----- From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> Date: Thursday, June 15, 2000 6:25 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Internet Connectivity To Matronics Restored... > >Listers: > >A DSL line card went out in the Livermore CO last night at 1:40am pst, >and Internet connectivity to Matronics was down until about 3:pm pst. >Connectivity seems to be fine now and email and web services should >again be available. > >Matt Dralle >Email List Admin. > > >-- > > >Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 >925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email >http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > Great minds discuss ideas, > Average minds discuss events, > Small minds discuss people... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 20, 2000
Subject: Re: Internet Connectivity To Matronics Restored...
In a message dated 6/20/00 8:10:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rowedl(at)alltel.net writes: << My name is Dennis Rowe and I have been receiving the Kolb list for a couple weeks now. In this time I have attempted to post a couple messages to the list at kolb-list(at)maltronics.com. These messages never make it on the list, nor do they bounce back to me. They must be going somwhere else. What gives? What am I doing wrong? >> You must be doing something right, as I got it. GeoR38 from Akron Oh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 20, 2000
In a message dated 6/20/00 7:44:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dixieshack(at)webtv.net writes: << Any first-hand pros and cons? Where is the best source for the tundras and what size best applies to the Firestar? The catalogs that I've seen and tire shops that I've looked at carry ATV tires that are HEAVY!! >> I bought 4 ply 6.00 X 156 X 6 [?] Golf Cart tires with the straight ribs from my local cheapo tire store, used tubes in them. Yes, they are heavy, but we have lots of sand spurs here. I have no problems, everyone else is constantly fixing leaks. This size looks about right on the Firestar [especially on the Matco gold rims with hydraulic disc brakes.] Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Firestar
> Has anyone ever towed a Firestar with the wings folded by the tail wheel. I > have about 1 mile to tow it to the airstrip and was trying to avoid putting > it on a trailer. I thought I could make a bracket to hold the tail wheel > and slide it into the 2" receiver. Thanks Randy Randy and Kolbers: Yep. I tow mine to and from my airstrip when necessary. All of them: Ultrastar, Firestar, and MK III. However, I haul the wings seperately to keep from overloading the tail wheel assembly. I take the tailwheel off, bolt a piece of flat plate to the tractor or jeep, slip the tailwheel assembly over the hole, then stick a bolt and nut thru it. I have to tow mine about 3 miles. Always afraid some nut will run over me on the big county road. Hold my breath until I can get on the little roads again. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com>
Subject: Fw:
Date: Jun 20, 2000
----- From: Jim Miller <jim(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 11:11 AM > Hey Bob the electrical guy on the Kolb list, how 'bout contacting us off > the list, we have a friend with an electrical question, & need some help. > > Thanx, > Jim & Dondi Miller > Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. > Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors > (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 > Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com > E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Flight to Barrow
Hi Gang: If I am boring you all with some of this stuff let me know and I will cease sharing it with you. This morning's weather was a record in Barrow, Alaska. The first ever recorded thunderstorm in their history. This forecast calls for a chance of thunderstorms: City Date Temp Hum. Press. Wind Wthr Fct Barrow 20 Jun 2000 08:53 AM ADT +37 93% 29.51 WEST 10 partly cloudy Deadhorse Jun 20 2000 0900 AM ADT +53 71% 29.49 0 mostlycldy Anaktuvuk Jun 20 2000 0900 AM ADT +48 65% 29.62 SOUTH 9 cloudy Bettles Jun 20 2000 0900 AM ADT +56 74% 29.65 SOUTH 8 mostlycldy Fairbanks 20 Jun 2000 08:53 AM ADT +57 55% 29.74 WSW 10 partly cloudy The above was at 0853 this morning Alaska time. Calling for highs in the 50sF today. Wow. A heat wave. Hope it stays that way, but..........not likely. Been busy piling gear in the living room and inventorying it. Doesn't look like it will fit in the MK III, but I know that where there is a will there is a way. Did a good test flight to Ted Cowan's flyin this past weekend. Dan Horton was my pac, goes about 220. The MK III didn't seem to mind as we climbed out of Wetumpka Airport Saturday morning at 1100 fpm. On the way home we landed in a private grass strip on top of a high hill to wait out a thunderstorm. Strip goes up hill to the center and then down hill. It is steap as airstrips go. After storm passage, Dan and I took off up hill and were flying in the light rain before we crested the hill. I am extremely happy with Miss P'fer's performance. Now have 47.6 hours on the 912S. Will change oil again at 50.0 before I depart for London and Barrow. Everything is looking good for the flight. I pray for good weather, favorable winds, and a safe flight. I am not a religious man, but I live one day at a time with a lot of spirituality. I have a confession to make. I have never done a true solo cross country flight. I alsways have someone much bigger than me riding shotgun. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 20, 2000
In a message dated 6/20/00 8:56:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time, HShack(at)aol.com writes: << I bought 4 ply 6.00 X 156 X 6 [?] Golf Cart tires with the straight ribs from >> Obviosly I meant 6.00 X 15 X 6. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charlie Martin" <chuggs(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Flight to Barrow
Date: Jun 20, 2000
John, It's smart that you're keeping an eye on this stuff. I'd keep an extremely close eye on the Altimeter setting from airfields on both sides of the mountains that you're flying near. If you see a significant pressure differential...look out for rotors coming off the mountain on the low pressure side. I used to do a bit of flying down around the Andes...and we'd keep a lookout for it. It could make for a really bad flight!! Have a GREAT journey!!! Charlie Martin >Hi Gang: > >If I am boring you all with some of this stuff let me know >and I will cease sharing it with you. > >This morning's weather was a record in Barrow, Alaska. The >first ever recorded thunderstorm in their history. This >forecast calls for a chance of thunderstorms: > >City Date Temp Hum. Press. Wind Wthr Fct > >Barrow 20 Jun 2000 08:53 AM ADT +37 93% 29.51 WEST 10 >partly cloudy >Deadhorse Jun 20 2000 0900 AM ADT +53 71% 29.49 0 >mostlycldy >Anaktuvuk Jun 20 2000 0900 AM ADT +48 65% 29.62 SOUTH 9 >cloudy >Bettles Jun 20 2000 0900 AM ADT +56 74% 29.65 SOUTH 8 >mostlycldy >Fairbanks 20 Jun 2000 08:53 AM ADT +57 55% 29.74 WSW 10 >partly cloudy > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "flatwood" <flatwood(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Flight to Barrow
Date: Jun 20, 2000
amen!! From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> for the flight. I pray for good weather, > favorable winds, and a safe flight. I am not a religious > man, but I live one day at a time with a lot of > spirituality. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2000
From: Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net>
Subject: Flight Test Schedule
Dear Kolb Listeners - It's been exciting reading about the First Flights of our Kolbs, as folks share their experiences with us as their airplanes get finished. We've already had 3 or 4 on this list finish their Kolbs just since the beginning of the year. Way to go, guys! As my Mark-III nears completion, I'm thinking more and more about the 40-hour flight test period I'll be needing to fly off for the FAA. I've read the published Advisory Circular that gives flight testing guidelines (AC 90-89a), and it provides good information on what kinds of flight test data we should be collecting during those first 40 hours. Like anyone else, I'd like to make the most effective use of my time while loitering around the local airspace, figuring out how well my new airplane really flies. What the AC does NOT offer is a flight-by-flight description of what to do and how exactly to go about collecting data. So my question to the group is: Does anyone have a detailed list of the flight manuvers and data collection list for your first 40 hours? Here's what I have so far: First Two Flights - Determine Engine Reliability; Determine Flight Control Characteristics. Hours 4-10 - Climbs Airspeed Accuracy Tests. Hours 11-20 - Stall Speed Tests; Best Rate of Climb; Best Angle of Climb; Slow Flight (Minimum Controllable Airspeed). Hours 21-35 - Stability & Control Tests: Static Stability, Dynamic Stability, Lateral-Directional Stability, Spiral Stability, Flutter Tests, Spins ( maybe ), Accelerated Stalls, Max Gross Weight Tests, Weight / CG Range Tests, Service Ceiling Tests, Fuel Consumption Tests. Looking forward to learning some new stuff from you experienced flyers! Dennis Kirby Mk-3, s/n 300, approx 80 percent finished in Cedar Crest, New Mexico P.S. -If you have not yet seen the cover plane on the June issue of EAA's 'Experimenter' magazine, check it out. The new Mark-III Extra factory demonstrator, photographed flying near Lakeland during Sun'n'Fun this year. Do we fly some good-looking airplanes or what?! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 20, 2000
Subject: Re: prop balance
Gary, that BuzzMaster balance is really very accurate. You need absolutely non-moving air when you use it. If you move your hands too quickly when you rub your nose the wind you generate will swing the prop. You have to have NO air movement. Balance the prop both ways. Set the scribed line parallel with the blades first and then at 90 degrees to the blades. My Tennessee prop was so far out at 90 degrees the Factory had to reshape it. It was balanced when I got it back but it lost some thrust. Good luck. G. Aman FS2 1274 48hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Flight Test Schedule
Dennis, My suggestion is to move the stall tests up to before the first landing. I would be more concerned about how ready I am to fly a Kolb, and how quickly I can adjust to it. I would be less concerned about the plane and the engine. I would test the engine on the ground, then not fly where I couldn't land dead-stick for at least a few hours. John Jung Dennis & Diane Kirby wrote: > snip.... > > First Two Flights - Determine Engine Reliability; Determine Flight > Control Characteristics. > > Hours 4-10 - Climbs > Airspeed Accuracy Tests. snip.... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2000
From: Herb Gearheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Re: Flight Test Schedule
Hi List The Mark III extra is one nice plane.. Wait til you see the next thing in the model shop!! Not on the drawing board , but will be flying by the end of July I would bet!!:-). It is going to be a honey!! Taxiing my Kolb MkIII for the last couple of days. About ready to fly. Can someone tell me about dead stick landings in a MkIII? Just in case! Herb in Ky Dennis & Diane Kirby wrote: > > Dear Kolb Listeners - > > It's been exciting reading about the First Flights of our Kolbs, as > folks share their experiences with us as their airplanes > get finished. We've already had 3 or 4 on this list finish their Kolbs > just since the beginning of the year. Way to go, guys! > > As my Mark-III nears completion, I'm thinking more and more about the > 40-hour flight test period I'll be needing to fly off for > the FAA. I've read the published Advisory Circular that gives flight > testing guidelines (AC 90-89a), and it provides good > information on what kinds of flight test data we should be collecting > during those first 40 hours. Like anyone else, I'd like > to make the most effective use of my time while loitering around the > local airspace, figuring out how well my new airplane > really flies. What the AC does NOT offer is a flight-by-flight > description of what to do and how exactly to go about > collecting data. > > So my question to the group is: Does anyone have a detailed list of the > flight manuvers and data collection list for your > first 40 hours? > > Here's what I have so far: > > First Two Flights - Determine Engine Reliability; Determine Flight > Control Characteristics. > > Hours 4-10 - Climbs > Airspeed Accuracy Tests. > > Hours 11-20 - Stall Speed Tests; Best Rate of Climb; Best Angle of > Climb; Slow Flight (Minimum Controllable > Airspeed). > > Hours 21-35 - Stability & Control Tests: Static Stability, > Dynamic Stability, Lateral-Directional Stability, Spiral > Stability, Flutter Tests, Spins ( maybe ), Accelerated Stalls, Max > Gross Weight Tests, Weight / CG Range Tests, Service > Ceiling Tests, Fuel Consumption Tests. > > Looking forward to learning some new stuff from you experienced flyers! > > Dennis Kirby > Mk-3, s/n 300, approx 80 percent finished in > Cedar Crest, New Mexico > > P.S. -If you have not yet seen the cover plane on the June issue of > EAA's 'Experimenter' magazine, check it out. The new > Mark-III Extra factory demonstrator, photographed flying near Lakeland > during Sun'n'Fun this year. Do we fly some > good-looking airplanes or what?! > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Flight to Barrow
Date: Jun 20, 2000
John, there's no boredom at all, just a lot of envy. Keep 'em coming. Charlie, thanks for the tip, it's a good one. Never heard or thought of that before, but seeing it spelled out like this makes it seem obvious. I'm going to make a little game out of checking some of the local airports on different sides of the local ( BIG ) mountains. Smarter Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Charlie Martin <chuggs(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 12:47 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Flight to Barrow > > John, > > It's smart that you're keeping an eye on this stuff. I'd keep an extremely > close eye on the Altimeter setting from airfields on both sides of the > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Halstead" <deanbo(at)calweb.com>
Subject: Boring?
Date: Jun 20, 2000
Not at all John. I can see you're gearing up for the mission and it's interesting to see the progress. Dean Halstead Sacramento MK-III ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 20, 2000
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Flight to Barrow
I spose I might be the one who instilled some sour feelings on what gets posted ...dang, still regret that. But for the record John, flying a Kolb to Barrow and back is definetly INTERESTING! Hey, those temperatures look appealing but only if in Celsius. I guess this might make for smoother air than the warmer lower 48. PS: Any of you remember Russell Duffy? He bought and built the first customer Kolb Slingshot, but sold it not long after flying when he realized his true passion was for an RV. Well, he just flew his RV8 after 2.5 years of work. (He's not one to sit around.) All went perfect and by now he has ~8 hours and has done some rolls too. -Ben Ransom --- John Hauck wrote: > If I am boring you all with some of this stuff let me know > and I will cease sharing it with you. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Subject: Flight to Barrow
Date: Jun 21, 2000
I remember Russell. He finished his Slingshot about a week before I finished my MK III. I'm still enjoying my MK III. Now have 193.7 hours. I was surprised when he sold his Slingshot. I took a test ride in a RV last year at Oshkosh and what a ride. That would be my next plane if I build another. I really think a guy needs two. A MK III to buzz the local county and an RV to go someplace. But then you have guys like John H that fly a MK III to Alaska. Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ben Ransom Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 1:59 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Flight to Barrow I spose I might be the one who instilled some sour feelings on what gets posted ...dang, still regret that. But for the record John, flying a Kolb to Barrow and back is definetly INTERESTING! Hey, those temperatures look appealing but only if in Celsius. I guess this might make for smoother air than the warmer lower 48. PS: Any of you remember Russell Duffy? He bought and built the first customer Kolb Slingshot, but sold it not long after flying when he realized his true passion was for an RV. Well, he just flew his RV8 after 2.5 years of work. (He's not one to sit around.) All went perfect and by now he has ~8 hours and has done some rolls too. -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 21, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Flight to Barrow
> Do you leave Kentucky this comming Monday? When do you leave home? > > John Jung John and Gang: Depart Gantt International Airport Saturday morning, 24 Jun, for Kolb Factory. Will make an op stop at the BUG Flyin, Lebanon/Springfield Airport, Ky, then back SE to Kolb Factory. Official departure from Chesnut Knolls Air Foundation Monday morning. Route of flight: Most direct route to Dawson Creek, BC (Just south of Indianapolis, In; Joliet, Il; Minneapolis, Mn; Fargo, ND; Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan; Saskaatoon, Sas; Edmonton, Alberta). Then up the Alaska Highway to Fairbanks, Alaska; up the Dalton Highway (Pipeline Haul Road) to Dead Horse/Prudhoe Bay, and the final leg to Barrow. I'll fly over Point Barrow, a sand spit that is the northern-most point on the North American Continent. Also so want to fly south 15 miles and see the Wiley Post/Will Rogers Memorial, a monument on the beach. I think I can land both places, but will check that out with the locals. The local bush pilots are the experts on the North Slope. If the weather is good and I am ahead of schedule, I may attempt to fly all the villages of the North Slope Borough. There are 7 or 8 very small villages in the entire North Slope. My return flight will take me back to Fairbanks via Anaktuvuk Pass and Bettles (for a good meal and fuel)(paid 3.45 a gal in 1994). From Fairbanks west to Nenana, Mt McKinley, Talkeetna, Willow, and Birchwood (just north of Anchorage). Will visit with Mike Jacober and his wife (Arctic Sparrow ULs). Ronnie Smith, South Miss Lt Acft, and a couple of his friends departed Lucedale, Ms, 17 Jun for Birchwood, Alaska. They may still be there when I arrive. They flew up in real airplanes. If I have time I will fly the local area and around the Kenai Peninsula before heading south. Will also try to make Valdez (800 miles from Dead Horse on the south end of the Alaska Pipeline) and Skagway, Alaska. At Watson Lake,YT, on the Alaska Highway, I will turn south down the Stewart/Cassiar Hwy. Plan to stop at Stewart, BC/Hyder, Alaska. Then to Prince George, BC, south to Kamloops, BC, east to Salmon Arm, BC, Vernon, BC, Oroville, Wa, Tonasket, Wa, Twisp, Wa. Then either thru Glacier National Park and over Logan Pass again, or down thru Wyoming, near Yellowstone Nat Park, S Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, to Oshkosh. A week at Oshkosh, hope to arrive 26 July, then back to London, Ky, and finally home to Titus, Al. Heck, that takes a long time to type, much less fly, and the weather is much better here in front of the computer. :-) Three more days of prep. Will load the airplane Friday, if I can get all this stuff in it. Hope I get to see some of you along the way or at Oshkosh. I am scheduled to give a briefing at the UL Seminar Tent by the UL Barn at 1000, Saturday, 29 July 2000. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Not a Good Day
Morning Gang: Not a good day for some folks. The following is a fatal accident of a Hudson Air Cessna 185 out of Talkeetna, Alaska. Four dead. I bought fuel from these folks (oldest air service for landing on Ruth Glacier, Mt Mckinley) in 1994. Will stop to eat and refuel there in a couple weeks. ************************ **** 06/21/2000 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record 1 **** A. Type: A Mid Air: N Missing: N Entry date: 06/21/2000 From: ALASKAN REGION OPERATIONS CENTER B. Reg. No.: 1589F M/M: C185 Desc: 185, A185 Skywagon, Skywagon 1 Activity: Business Phase: Unknown GA-A/C: Air Taxi (On Demand) Descr: HUDSON AIR SERVICE ACFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES AND WAS DESTROYED, ALL 4 PARK SERVICE EMPLOYEES ON BOARD SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, OTHER CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, SKWENTA, AK. WX: UNKN Damage: Destroyed C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: # Pass: 3 Fat: 3 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: D. Location. City: SKWENTA State: AK Country: US E. Event Date: 06/20/2000 Time: 0300 F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: AL03 DO City: ANCHORAGE DO State: AK Others: NTSB G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: TALKEETNA, AK Dep Date: 06/20/2000 Time: 0111 Dest: TALKEETNA, AK Last Radio Cont: UNKN Flt Plan: VFR Last Clearance: UNKN WX Briefing: Other: **************************** The next one we do not like for sure: ********************************* **** 06/21/2000 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record 6 **** A. Type: A Mid Air: N Missing: N Entry date: 06/21/2000 From: NORTHWEST MOUNTAIN REGION OPERATIONS CENTER B. Reg. No.: 618HP M/M: EXP Desc: EXP-1999 KOLB TWINSTR MARK III Activity: Pleasure Phase: Unknown GA-A/C: General Aviation Descr: EXPERIMENTAL ACFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES, THE 2 POB SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED, FLATHEAD, MT. WX: UNKN Damage: Destroyed C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: # Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: D. Location. City: FLATHEAD State: MT Country: US E. Event Date: 06/21/2000 Time: 0230 F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: NM05 DO City: HELENA DO State: MT Others: NTSB (ANDERSON) G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: WHITE FISH ARPT, MT Dep Date: 06/21/2000 Time: Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: UNKN Flt Plan: UNK Last Clearance: UNKN WX Briefing: U Oth ************************************** The MK III was registered to: ************************************** N-Number 618HP Amateur-Built? Yes Aircraft Make Hoye Henry M Aircraft Model KOLB TWNSTR MARK III Serial Number 1143 Year Manufactured Aircraft Type Fixed Wing Single Engine Land Engine Type Reciprocating Engine Make Engine Model Horsepower Airworthiness Class Approved Operations Seats 2 Type of Ownership Co-Owner Owner Name Hoye Henry M Street 460 Hodgson Rd City Columbia Falls, MT 59912-9024 FAA Region Northwest-Mountain Country US Registration Date 08-Sep-1999 Last Activity Date 08-Sep-1999 ****************************************** Do not know who was on board or any other info on accident. Does anyone know if Henry M Hoye is on the Kolb List? Take care and fly safe, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: MK III Crash In Montana
Hello Gang: Here is the url for the Kalispell Newspaper artcle on the MK III crash: http://www.newsdirectory.com/go/?f=&r=mt&u=www.dailyinterlake.com Names have not been released as of yet. I do not think I have ever seen a MK III come apart like this one did. Article indicated it cut a 6 inch diameter treee. Pic is on the above page. If it does not load, make sure you copy and paste the entire url, to include the last little "m". My heart felt sympathy goes out to the friends and family of these two, whoever they are. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Wingtip overkill
Date: Jun 21, 2000
A while back there was some discussion about making the wingtip of the various Kolb aircraft rigid. There was also some mention of vibration breaking a couple of the braces in the wingtip. I had an itch to try my hand at forming aluminum from reading the Bible (Tony Bingelis books...) so I decided to kill a couple of hours. I had my wingtip finished per the plans with the exception of the last false rib that attaches to the 2 tube braces and yes there was flex... This took about 6 hours to make including the 2 sets of plywood form blocks. The other side will probably only take 2 (if that...with a little experience the forming is quite easy...) Food for thought...fire away Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com Here are the links... http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/FD801009.JPG http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/FD801007.JPG http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/FD801005.JPG P.S. YES the wingtip is now RIGID!!! And NO this hasn't been completely assembled to see if you can lift a main wheel of the ground without the wingtip flexing , but I personally think that will NOT be a problem. And yes I know that there are thousands of Kolbs flying fine that didn't need this kind of treatment but....I learned a few things and had fun doing it. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. P.P.S. It should make for a nice smooth tapered/rounded/semi-elliptical surface.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: 2si 690L-70
Date: Jun 21, 2000
Hello list, My name is Dennis Rowe and I am from western PA. I am currently flying a Loehle Sport Parasol, and am building a Mark 3 that I purchased a couple years ago from Gerry Hefner of Humbolt, PA. If any of you folks passed up this plane when Gerry advertised it in Kitplanes, I would like to take this opportunity to THANK YOU. I have three young children, so my building is progressing very slowly, I hope to finish the covering and paint it this fall. As I near completion, the question of which engine to use comes to the forefront. Hirth has been totally eliminated, the 912 is to heavy and expensive, the 503 would not allow me to carry heavier passengers, the 618 is overpriced and disscontinued, that leaves the 582 as the front runner. A used 582 seems like the best compromise of power and money. Then there is the 2SI 690L-70. On paper this engine looks great. I have talked to a fellow in TX that replaced his S-12s 582 with a 690 and he loves it. He went through all the teething problems that they had with the early models and now has 130hrs on it and tells me that it is better than the 582 in every way. I am also conversing with Luray Wehcter of York, PA who is almost ready to fly his Slingshot with a 690. Well what I need to hear before I drop the cash on such a new engine, is a whole lot more happy 690l stories. If any of you have flown this engine on anything, please let me know your feelings. Do you think it is worth it, or would you stick with a used 582? Thanks Denny Rowe rowedl(at)alltel.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Wingtip overkill
Looks very good. Looks "airplaney" for sure. It is hard to guess from looking at the pictures, but bear in mind that the fabric will try to concave and dish out when you shrink it. I would wonder if you might not want one more false rib to keep the fabric from dishing down and laying over the top of your new brace? Maybe stretch something real tight across the tip for a test to make sure it will clear the brace? (It's easier to make sure now than after the PolyTak is dry...) Or maybe you've already done that, and you're way ahead of me? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > A while back there was some discussion about making the wingtip of the >various Kolb aircraft rigid. There was also some mention of vibration >breaking a couple of the braces in the wingtip. I had an itch to try my hand >at forming aluminum from reading the Bible (Tony Bingelis books...) so I >decided to kill a couple of hours. I had my wingtip finished per the plans >with the exception of the last false rib that attaches to the 2 tube braces >and yes there was flex... This took about 6 hours to make including the 2 >sets of plywood form blocks. The other side will probably only take 2 (if >that...with a little experience the forming is quite easy...) > >Food for thought...fire away > >Jeremy Casey >jrcasey(at)mindspring.com > >Here are the links... > >http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/FD801009.JPG > >http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/FD801007.JPG > >http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/FD801005.JPG > >P.S. YES the wingtip is now RIGID!!! And NO this hasn't been completely >assembled to see if you can lift a main wheel of the ground without the >wingtip flexing , but I personally think that will NOT be a problem. And >yes I know that there are thousands of Kolbs flying fine that didn't need >this kind of treatment but....I learned a few things and had fun doing it. >That's my story and I'm sticking to it. > >P.P.S. It should make for a nice smooth tapered/rounded/semi-elliptical >surface.... > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 21, 2000
Subject: Re: 2si 690L-70
Is there a web site for this 690 engine company? I'm still open about engine selection as well for the Mark III, still considering the geo metro conversion offered by Raven re-drives or the 582. Anybody out there with a slightly used 582 they'd like to part with? Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2000
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: prop balance
thanks for the info. right now I'am spraying on polyurethane to the last 8" or so of the light side of the prop. It may take several coats, I have to put these on thin according to the directions, this may take a few nights. thanks, Gary r. voigt ZepRep251(at)aol.com wrote: > > Gary, that BuzzMaster balance is really very accurate. You need absolutely > non-moving air when you use it. If you move your hands too quickly when you > rub your nose the wind you generate will swing the prop. You have to have NO > air movement. Balance the prop both ways. Set the scribed line parallel with > the blades first and then at 90 degrees to the blades. My Tennessee prop was > so far out at 90 degrees the Factory had to reshape it. It was balanced when > I got it back but it lost some thrust. Good luck. G. Aman FS2 1274 48hrs > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank & Winnie Hodson" <fwhodson(at)bigfoot.com>
Subject: How to make a FS II into a parts donor
Date: Jun 21, 2000
Dear Kolbers: I apologize for not sending this earlier (I had a text problem on two previous tries) Many of you have expressed an interest in hearing how I devalued a perfectly good Firestar in such short order. It really was not direct equipment problems, but was 'Pilot error' in the way they were operated. I am a big pilot (6' 3" / 250#) and the FS II is designed to accommodate me pretty well. Where I got into trouble is by wearing big hiking boots. This accompanied with heel brake actuators in the rather confined nose pod was to start a series of events / choices that led to a hard off field landing. The aircraft veered slowly to the right during my take-off roll, at which point I added some more left "rudder" and lifted off. The aircraft continued its right hand turn which did not respond to further vigorous left "rudder" input. Believing that I was experiencing directional control problems and seeing vast expanses of very tall timber, I chose a very small area with a hill almost directly below me and put it down hard. This was to avoid doing endless uncontrolled circles over heavily wooded and hilly terrain. Upon extracting myself (undamaged) from the FS II (not undamaged) and further review with my son and his video I formed the following conclusion: The rudder did not deflect fully to the left as my input would suggest. Much of the effort and feel of the "rudder" impute was actually caused by my big foot actuating the heel brake and its related mechanisms. Lessons learned: (1) Be aware of the confined space within the FS II nosecone pod. (2) Consider another method of obtaining direction braking other than heel brakes. (3) Know when to quit financially if you didn't pay attention to the first two lessons and prior to going broke. I hope this story is of use to someone: FRANK HODSON P.S. I am in the process of answering e-mail asking about parts availability in the order that they were received. Thanks for your patience. fwhodson@megalink.net http://www.megalink.net/~fwhodson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Wingtip overkill
Date: Jun 21, 2000
Not only looks good, it looks hell for stout, Jeremy. Good for you, and don't let 'em tell you different. Isn't it amazing how much time something like that will eat up ?? Admiring Lar. Do not Archive. ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeremy Casey <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 10:49 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Wingtip overkill > > A while back there was some discussion about making the wingtip of the > various Kolb aircraft rigid. There was also some mention of vibration ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2000
From: Tom Kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Subject: Re: MK III Crash In Montana
John and the list, My good friend, Henry Hoye, and his passenger, a long-time friend of his visiting from North Carolina, were killed yesterday in the crash of Kolb Mk III, N618HP. The Co-Owner, Co-Builder and list member Paul Von Lindern is very busy right now with the details of handling all the issues involved in such a tragedy. The aircraft had recently finished its 40 hour test phase and carried several passengers. Witnesses to the crash describe a classic circle on a point / stall / spin / recovery-overcorrection / opposite stall / spin. Currently no structural failures or design features appear to be related to the accident. Besides being the most cheerful person I ever met (favorite quote: "life is good"), Henry was the President of EAA Chapter 102 and active in local aviation. He leaves behind a wife and two daughters and will be sorely missed on many levels. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: MK III Crash In Montana
> Besides being the most cheerful person I ever met (favorite quote: "life > is good"), Henry was the President of EAA Chapter 102 and active in > local aviation. He leaves behind a wife and two daughters and will be > sorely missed on many levels. Tom: Would like to make arrangements to stop by your area to pay my respects on my return from Alaska, aprx 3d week in July. I have no special requirements except a point of contact when I arrive in the general area. Name and phone number will suffice. Maybe a ride to a resturant for real food. You all have my sincere sympathy. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: How to make a FS II into a parts donor
Thank you, Frank, for sharing your story. I'm sure that it wasn't easy, but I believe it will help others. Group, Choose your footwear carefully. I wish that I would have thought of this warning before. Watch out for boots in your Firestar, especially with heal brakes. Wear tennis shoes until you are comfortable with the plane. I don't even have large feet and I have experienced limited rudder control because of my choice of footwear. It's not that I was really limited, just that the "feel" was lost, so that I thought that there was no more rudder. I really like my heal brakes, but they do take some getting used to. John Jung Firestar II N6163J SE Wisconsin Frank & Winnie Hodson wrote: > > Dear Kolbers: snip.... > Upon extracting myself (undamaged) from the FS II (not undamaged) and > further review with my son and his video I formed the following conclusion: > The rudder did not deflect fully to the left as my input would suggest. Much > of the effort and feel of the "rudder" impute was actually caused by my big > foot actuating the heel brake and its related mechanisms. > > Lessons learned: (1) Be aware of the confined space within the FS II > nosecone pod. (2) Consider another method of obtaining direction braking > other than heel brakes. (3) Know when to quit financially if you didn't pay > attention to the first two lessons and prior to going broke. > > I hope this story is of use to someone: FRANK HODSON ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Wingtip overkill
Builders take note: Most builders find that the modifications that they make take much more time then they thought. I keep close track of my time and I built the standard plane "fast". Then I couldn't believe how much time a few small modifications took. I'm not trying to discourage changes. Most of us want to get a little of our own design in the plane. Just be aware that it will take TIME. John Jung Firestar II N6163J SE Wisconsin Larry Bourne wrote: > snip..... > Isn't it amazing how much time something > like that will eat up ?? snip..... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com>
Subject: Fw: Kolb
Date: Jun 22, 2000
From: INFO Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 7:54 AM Subject: Kolb Hi Denny, Sounds like you're having a great time building!! If you have any covering questions, don't hesitate to call. Jim & Dondi Miller Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com>
Subject: Modification to wingtip
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Hi Kolbers! I would like to hitch hike on what Richard Pike says to Jeremy Casey.... If you don't add another rib, be sure to anti-chaffe tape the brace, and put a finish tape on top of the fabric over the brace area. Also, when you are ready to shrink the fabric, give me a call for a real neat proceedure for reducing the "troughing" between the ribs to a minimum. Thanx, Jim Miller Looks very good. Looks "airplaney" for sure. It is hard to guess from looking at the pictures, but bear in mind that the fabric will try to concave and dish out when you shrink it. I would wonder if you might not want one more false rib to keep the fabric from dishing down and laying over the top of your new brace? Maybe stretch something real tight across the tip for a test to make sure it will clear the brace? (It's easier to make sure now than after the PolyTak is dry...) Or maybe you've already done that, and you're way ahead of me? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Jim & Dondi Miller Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Low fuel burn
Group, Here is something that I found interesting. Last Saturday, I burned 2.25 gph, on my 503 powered Firestar II. It was the lowest ever for me with the 503. How did I do it? By flying about 46 mph and 4500 rpm for 60 miles. I flew back from the Pioneer Fly-In at Oshkosh, with a friend in a Quicksilver MXII. I would have guessed that flying that slow would give poorer fuel burn, because the plane feels less efficient and uses almost the same throttle setting as going much faster. I guess there is always more to learn. John Jung Firestar II N6163J SE Wisconsin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Montana MK III Crash
Gents: Here is the url for the followup story on the Henry Hoye MK III crash: http://www.dailyinterlake.com/news_lo1.html-ssi Of significance is the fact that the balistic recovery system was not deployed!!! I would speculate that Henry never thought about that little red handle that could have saved him and his friend's life. Most of us never accept the fact that we might have to use "that little red handle." Some of us fly without parachutes. That is our choice and our freedom to fly the way we want to. On this subject I can speak from experience, two saves with the same old Jim Handbury hand deployed parachute. Thanks to my Brother, Jim Hauck, I trained for the time, should it arise, to deploy the parachute. During a periodic repack, Jim asked me if I had ever practiced deploying the parachute. Of course, I had not. He sat me down on an air conditioning unit with my parachute strapped on. I practiced throwing the deployment bag down and to the left. Exactly 7 days later the parachute saved my life, but totaled my Ultrastar. The thought did flash thru my mind that I was going to destroy my airplane, but at that split second, it did not matter. Felt the same way the second time around. I will not attempt to tell you all what to do, but I will share with you what I do to prepare for the chance that I might need to deploy my parachute to save my life and the life of my passenger, if I have one on board. First: I know that parachutes work. In my mind I have accepted this fact and will pull the "red handle" if necessary, no matter how low, how fast, or what attitude I am in at that moment. I will do everything I can to save my life. I will not give up and become a passenger to await my doom. Second: I have practiced in my mind and in my seat in the cockpit exactly what I will do to deploy the parachute if necessary. I realize the aircraft may be spinning, rolling, tumbling, at a high rate of speed. That it may be difficult to reach the red handle because of centrifugal force. I know exactly where the red handle is with my eyes closed. I can reach and pull the red handle with left, right, or both hands. Third: If it is obvious that I can fly the airplane to the ground safely, I will not deploy the parachute. If there is any question in my mind that I am gonna hurt myself, I will pull the red handle. Fourth: If I do not have an engine kill system installed to automatically stop the engine on parachute deployment, I will practice in my mind to hit the kill switch or at least get the throttle to idle. Folks, if I do not practice the above, I will not do what is necessary to save my life the split second I have to do it if the need arises. Again, I am not telling anyone what they should do, only what I find necessary to do to get the most out of my ballistic recovery system. Fly safe, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: 503 Spark Plug Gap
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Question on Spark Plug Gap The Rotax book calls for setting the spark plug gap with a .016 wire gauge. The smallest gauge I have been able to find is .020. All of the other Rotax engines call for a .020 gap so thought it might be a misprint. I call New Kolb and they recommend .017 but I can't find a .017 gauge either. What are all you 503 drives using for plug gap and where do you get the correct gauge? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: New pics
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Well gang , I have been a web page posting son of a gun lately...2 updates in 2 days!!! Actually I had a bunch of pics that I wanted to post and just finally got around to it. Due to web space limitations I have culled out some old stuff... All links on these pages are good... Go to the update directly here http://d-bcasey.home.mindspring.com/misc.htm or to the home page here... http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/home.htm Back to the basement to get that A/C unit in. The heat index is about 105 today and that's the limit. Can't imagine how Larry Bourne must feel over there on the left coast. It's got to be ROUGH!!! Actually Alaska sounds pretty good right now!!! Sweating Jer... Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 2si 690L-70
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Bill, You can find 2SIs web page by lookig up Two Stroke International on your search engine. They only list engine specs, and prices. Roger Zerkle at ZDE sells them but I want to talk to many more happy customers before I buy a 690L. When Luray gets his Slingshot flying, I'll let you all know how he likes the engine. He has it mounted and has run it and tells me it seems awfully powerful, but he needs to get the Feds out to inspect it before he flys. I bought the Raven manual about a year ago, and also fiddled around with a friends blown up Metro engine, It seems a little to heavy for my taste, and I like the simplicity of the 2-strokes. Like you, I am leaning toward a good used 582 if the 690l doesn't pan out, but from talking to that fellow with one on the RANS, it really sounds good. Denny Rowe -----Original Message----- From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com <WingManBill2(at)aol.com> Date: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 8:18 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2si 690L-70 > >Is there a web site for this 690 engine company? I'm still open about engine >selection as well for the Mark III, still considering the geo metro >conversion offered by Raven re-drives or the 582. Anybody out there with a >slightly used 582 they'd like to part with? Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com>
"Kolb List"
Subject: Alaska trip!
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Have a GREAT trip, John. We'll be watching the e-mail to hear from you! We wish you good tail winds both ways (a pilot's dream that we've never experienced!) Good Luck & enjoy the trip!!!!!! Jim & Dondi Miller Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Subject: Re: 503 Spark Plug Gap
In a message dated 6/22/00 12:45:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time, vicw(at)vcn.com writes: << What are all you 503 drives using for plug gap and where do you get the correct gauge? >> I couldn't find a wire gauge either; I just use a flat-type foldout feeler gauge; I set one plug on each cylinder to .016 [stronger spark], and one on each cylinder to .018 [better resistance to fouling]. JMHO, work's for me. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EnaudZ(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Subject: Re: 503 Spark Plug Gap
I f you cant find a wire gauge use a flat feeler gage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N51SK(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Subject: Re: Johns Flight to Alaska
John, Just a quick one before you go. How much gas can you carry? Probably a lot of folks on this list know that already so if you don't have time, somebody will answer me. We missed you at Lake Texoma this year. Hopefully next year we will be at the Sheppard Recreational Annex which is right next door to Cedar Mills and has a North/South runway. Really nice facility with cabins, camping, restaurant, driving range, boat rentals, slip rentals, fishing. This place is NEAT!!!! Hope a lot of you guys can make it next year. This year we got rained on but we still had a lot of fun. Safe trip John. We're all riding with you. Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Johns Flight to Alaska
Steve: Sorry you all got rained out. I considered flying out, but just did not have time. My fuel capacity is 25 gal ultimate and 25 gal useable. I can get every drop out of that single alum tank. We built the 25 gal tank to make the 1994 flight with a 582 which burned 5 to 5.5 gph. The 912 burned 4 gph at cruise and the 912S is burning 4.5 gph at 5500 rpm cruise. Doesn't take much flying to close the gap of initial purchase when you start comparing fuel and oil burn. The 912 series engines will pay for the difference in price with reliability, overhaul, fuel and oil burn. Times a wasting!!! Still got some thing to get done before Saturday morning. john h > Just a quick one before you go. How much gas can you carry? > Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R. Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: How to make a FS II into a parts donor
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Franf; if you are letting your plane go away because of this small miscalulacation,...god knows you need to rethink, because the whole bunch of us might think also RH MK3 912 N912RH > > I apologize for not sending this earlier (I had a text problem on two > previous tries) > > 'Pilot error' This was to avoid doing foot actuating the heel brake and its related mechanisms. FRANK HODSON > Thanks for your patience. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Subject: Re: 503 Spark Plug Gap
Vic, I use a feeler gauge. Ralph Original FireStar > > Question on Spark Plug Gap > > The Rotax book calls for setting the spark plug gap with a .016 wire > gauge. > The smallest gauge I have been able to find is .020. All of the > other Rotax > engines call for a .020 gap so thought it might be a misprint. I > call New > Kolb and they recommend .017 but I can't find a .017 gauge either. > > What are all you 503 drives using for plug gap and where do you get > the > correct gauge? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Wingtip overkill
Date: Jun 22, 2000
> I would wonder if you might not want one more false rib to keep the fabric > from dishing down and laying over the top of your new brace? Maybe stretch > something real tight across the tip for a test to make sure it will clear > the brace? > (It's easier to make sure now than after the PolyTak is dry...) > Or maybe you've already done that, and you're way ahead of me? > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Point well taken....have given it some thought and think it will be alright...might just stick a 4-5 inch piece between each of the false ribs that attach to the formed rib , that is bent down on each end to hold up the fabric if the test piece shows possible trouble Will let you know in a couple months when I get towards covering... Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Mark III crash
Date: Jun 22, 2000
It was very upsetting to read of the fatalities in Montana. My sympathies and condolences to the involved. I went to the newspaper link and learned that the passenger was a sound technician for "Hootie and the Blowfish". The article described the rescue squad disarming the parachute. I also recently read an article about a trike fatality in which the pilot tried to fly out of his situation and not deploying the chute. Do the pilots hesitate to use the chute in trying to prevent any damage to their plane at the expense of their lives? This news comes the day after I have ordered a 33' steel I-beam to begin converting my barn to a T-hanger before beginning to build. I guess I am looking for some assurance that this won't happen to me. Although I have a pilots license, my 25 years of inactivity has made me unclear about the sequence of stall, spin, overcorrection, stall and spin situation. Could someone elaborate? Thanks, Clay Stuart Danville KY ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 2000
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III crash
> >It was very upsetting to read of the fatalities in Montana. My sympathies >and condolences to the involved. >Do the pilots hesitate to use the chute in trying to >prevent any damage to their plane at the expense of their lives? No and Yes: IMHO most pilots forget the chute is there, everything is happening so fast, unless you pactice-like Hawk says. The second reason most pilots won't pull the "red" handle is that it takes you out of the "loop". YOU are no longer the pilot-you are just a PASSENGER. I personally do not like to fly-or even ride in other people's planes. It is a "control" thing that I thing most pilots can understand. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Wrong Way Wind
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Get the Delete button ready, B.S. session to follow.............Do not Archive. Don't you guys know that the wind is ALWAYS bass-ackwards ?? This was finally proven to me 20 or so years ago, when I was learning ( uh, sorta.............) to fly fish in the high mountain lakes in the Bitterroot Mountains, on the Idaho/Montana border. Magnificent country, but anyway, these lakes ( mostly tarns ) are generally small, and the wind is always in your face. I've gone all the way around several, reasoning that the wind had to be coming from "SomeWhere." It was - In My Face - all the way round the lakes. Obviously a message, right ?? As a matter of fact, the pieces of that fly rod and reel are probably still scattered around a rock beside the Clearwater River near Kamiah, Idaho. ( Pronounce it "Kamee-eye" ) Just like the town I lived in - Weippe, ID. ( Pronounced "Wee-Yipe") That's Idaho for ya. Love it. Anyhow, years later, during Flying Lessons, of all places, I found out why the wind was always in my face around those little lakes. Thought I was making it up didn't ya ?? In the warm days of summer, the ground around the lakes is heated by that feeble little sun, causing the air to warm up and rise. Meanwhile, the ice cold lake is cooling the air, causing it to sink. Gives you a local "pocket" weather system in a teacup. Makes me picture a doughnut. This makes me think further, in that small local weather systems could affect a small plane close to the ground and going slow. Food for thought, as well as great memories. Nostalgic Lar. Do not Archive. ----- Original Message ----- From: INFO <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 12:32 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Alaska trip! > > Have a GREAT trip, John. We'll be watching the e-mail to hear from you! > > We wish you good tail winds both ways (a pilot's dream that we've never > experienced!) > > Good Luck & enjoy the trip!!!!!! > Jim & Dondi Miller > Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. > Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors > (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 > Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com > E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 2000
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Flight to Barrow
Stay tuned >and see what happens when "the hauck" gets ready to fly from >Dead Horse to Barrow. Taking bets on good weather and wind >or just the opposite. :-) I got five bucks that says the helicopter pilot makes it. BTW if those things are so safe, how come I've never heard of any "vintage" helicopter flyins. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Mark III crash
Date: Jun 22, 2000
Looks like this is crusade night for Lar again, can't let this pass. When flying straight and level, your airplane will stall at a given speed, at a given low throttle setting. Hopefully low, anyway, cause if it stalls straight and level at high throttle settings, you've got lots of problems. Anyway, as you bank the plane, the upper wing tends to gain lift, ( greater effective angle of attack ), and the lower wing will lose lift ( lower effective AOA ) This will increase the speed the plane will stall at, and is also the lead-in to a "graveyard spiral." When on approach, typically the throttle will be retarded, speed will be decreasing, and the pilot is focussing on his landing area. When turning base or final, if the plane is banked too much, the lower wing will stall, the upper wing will lift on over, and the plane enters a spin - straight down. If the pilot stomps the rudder to try and get out of the turn, adverse yaw will accelerate the process. Spins typically take 1000+ feet to recover from. If one occurs on base or final, you've had it. The old saying - "Maintain Thy Airspeed, Lest the Earth Rise Up and Smite Thee" is very true. If you think you're in danger, add power, and Gently use ailerons and rudder in a carefully co-ordinated turn to straight and level. It's real easy to do a go-around. Soap Box Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Clay Stuart <cstuart(at)searnet.com> Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 8:21 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III crash > looking for some assurance that this won't happen to me. Although I have a > pilots license, my 25 years of inactivity has made me unclear about the > sequence of stall, spin, overcorrection, stall and spin situation. Could > someone elaborate? > > Thanks, > Clay Stuart > Danville KY > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Mark III crash
Date: Jun 22, 2000
>sequence of stall, spin, overcorrection, stall and spin situation. Could >someone elaborate? I'm just a rookie pilot but the typical stall spin restall goes something like this: The pilot increases the AOA of the wing to the point of stall, wither by slowing down or by pulling too many g's or a combination of the two. If a stall happens fairly unexpectedly often a wing can drop and a spin will start before the pilot gets his head back in the game. then the pilot lowers the nose and applies opposite rudder to stop the spin. now the plane unstalls, and stops spinning but what the pilot sees is a fairly large planet coming at him very fast. so he pulls the stick back and restalls the wing, and usually he still has his foot on the rudder so he quickly enters a spin in the other direction. At this point there is often no altitude left to recover and the plane hits the ground about as hard as it can, in a nose low attitude and is usually very bad. In this particular accident, I will offer the opinion that the pilot had been flying with passengers for only a limited time, and did not have the feel for how the plane would stall with the extra load yet. stall speed is increased with weight. the pilot was apparently maneuvering at significant g's. doing a turn around a point. Stall speed increases with g's. I would guess the stall completely surprised him, and having only flown the Kolb for a little over 40 hours, I would guess he had not practiced spins or spin recoveries much. An AOA indicator allows the pilot to know how close to stall he is at any loading any cg location and any g. It may have saved this pilot and passengers lives. On the chute usage, you have to have made the decision to use the chute before you fly, or you wont even get to it. this whole crash probably took less then 15-20 seconds. for the first 5 he probably was going "what the hell?". In the next 5 seconds he probably recovered from the stall spin and was starting to relax. the last 5 seconds might have been spent frozen in fear. That is when having planned ahead for using the chute and practicing and making the decision before hand of when to use the chute would have allowed his body to automatically react to the panic by pulling the chute. Thinking and deciding is not possible at this point, it has to be a reaction to the situation. your body ducks when it suddenly sees a rock tossed at your head. you dont think about ducking your body takes care of it. Using the chute has to be a reaction that you practice and that is based on logically good decisions, but is performed by instinctive reaction when the time comes. I spent a few years doing F-16 flight testing, the training to use the ejection seat is based on this idea. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Update on Wingtip Overkill
Date: Jun 23, 2000
At the good advice of Richard Pike and Jim Miller I did a stretch test and sure nuff , the wingtip rib got into the fabric. SOOOO , one extra rib was called for. It will just be a little truer curve around to the tip...yea , that's my story and I'm still sticking to it!!! Here's what it looks like... http://d-bcasey.home.mindspring.com/w6.jpg Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Mark III crash
Date: Jun 23, 2000
Has anyone on the list done 45, and 60 degree turns with stalls? What has been the stall speed at these angle of banks? -----Original Message----- From: Christopher John Armstrong <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> Date: Thursday, June 22, 2000 11:45 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III crash > >>sequence of stall, spin, overcorrection, stall and spin situation. Could >>someone elaborate? > > >I'm just a rookie pilot but the typical stall spin restall goes something >like this: The pilot increases the AOA of the wing to the point of stall, >wither by slowing down or by pulling too many g's or a combination of the >two. If a stall happens fairly unexpectedly often a wing can drop and a >spin will start before the pilot gets his head back in the game. then the >pilot lowers the nose and applies opposite rudder to stop the spin. now the >plane unstalls, and stops spinning but what the pilot sees is a fairly large >planet coming at him very fast. so he pulls the stick back and restalls the >wing, and usually he still has his foot on the rudder so he quickly enters a >spin in the other direction. At this point there is often no altitude left >to recover and the plane hits the ground about as hard as it can, in a nose >low attitude and is usually very bad. > >In this particular accident, I will offer the opinion that the pilot had >been flying with passengers for only a limited time, and did not have the >feel for how the plane would stall with the extra load yet. stall speed is >increased with weight. the pilot was apparently maneuvering at significant >g's. doing a turn around a point. Stall speed increases with g's. I would >guess the stall completely surprised him, and having only flown the Kolb for >a little over 40 hours, I would guess he had not practiced spins or spin >recoveries much. >An AOA indicator allows the pilot to know how close to stall he is at any >loading any cg location and any g. It may have saved this pilot and >passengers lives. > >On the chute usage, you have to have made the decision to use the chute >before you fly, or you wont even get to it. this whole crash probably took >less then 15-20 seconds. for the first 5 he probably was going "what the >hell?". In the next 5 seconds he probably recovered from the stall spin and >was starting to relax. the last 5 seconds might have been spent frozen in >fear. That is when having planned ahead for using the chute and practicing >and making the decision before hand of when to use the chute would have >allowed his body to automatically react to the panic by pulling the chute. >Thinking and deciding is not possible at this point, it has to be a reaction >to the situation. your body ducks when it suddenly sees a rock tossed at >your head. you dont think about ducking your body takes care of it. Using >the chute has to be a reaction that you practice and that is based on >logically good decisions, but is performed by instinctive reaction when the >time comes. I spent a few years doing F-16 flight testing, the training to >use the ejection seat is based on this idea. > >Topher > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Radio Stuff
ear.navy.mil> > A couple weeks ago, Michael Harter, John King, and I flew to the Va. >State Fly-in. I flew with John, in his plane, and we followed Michael. We >flew off his aft stbd quarter (nautical talk) most of the way and Mikes >transmissions were very weak and garbbled to the point, we could barely >understand him. John said, they had experienced the problem before when >flying in formation. We were well within visual distance of Mikes plane. >If we changed position a little, the problem seemed to get better. > Is this mearly a "positioning" problem? Both radios in question were >built in and not handhelds. It is not uncommon for closely positioned radios NOT to communicate well with each other . . . the receivers are designed to pick very tiny signals out of the etherial trash. After going to a lot of trouble to hear the weak signals, the radio may be prone to overloading from VERY strong signals. Try an experiment where you back off from the transmitter that's difficult to hear in incerments. You may find some separation where the receiver "recovers" and you can now hear what used to be garbled. Further, radiation patters around an airplane can have marked peaks and valleys in their intensity, you may discover that your position in azimuth around the > Speaking of handhelds, I saw in, one of the catalog's, an "amplifier" >for handhelds. Are they worth the money to improve comms with a handheld? >If I remember, they weren't cheap???? Generally these devices only boost your transmitter performance although some may have receiving pre-amps built in too. By-in-large, receivers in hand helds are nearly as capable as receivers in panel-mounted radios when it comes to sensitivity. It may lack capabilities in overload resistance but generally speaking there is little gain to be realized by puting a pre-amp on a hand held radio's receiver. Transmit amplifiers will indeed make you heard further but there are cautions. Low power hand held radios, because they are low power, don't have to work so hard to suppress UNWANTED output from their transmitters . . . and EVERY transmitter puts out energy on frequencies other than the one you're using to communicate. An amplifier will boost both the desired and undesired outputs which may cause you to become a nuisance to folk using other parts of the spectrum. An external antenna is much less expensive, needs no power from ship's systems, and will generally let you talk to any station you can hear. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different than ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 23, 2000
Subject: Re: crash/stall/spin
In a message dated 6/23/00 8:12:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time, zoper(at)mint.net writes: << The recent fatal stall of the mk3 would be called a moose stall in the northern parts. You as the pilot[ entertainer?] want your passenger[s] to see the moose and begin circling the object tighter and tighter and begin watching it yourself until something happens. I try to make it a habit that when a passenger our even myself wants to see something for awhile on the ground, to get nervous. Don't moose stall. >> Dell, I call it the photo stall, as it happens also when you are concentrating on taking a picture of something on the ground and you forget to fly the airplane ....Boo! Happened to me once...or almost...as the plane was not responding to right aileron as I spiralled down to the left...scared the & %&$&$ out of me so I did what most don't do....I neutralled the controls and lowered the nose even MORE!!...WOW...talk about goin against the grain when you only have 150 ft between you and the tree tops...needless to say........it worked!! I have a friend who did what comes naturally and kept trying to raise the nose in an N3 Pup against the Pup's wishes and he totalled it...boy that was a sweet flyin airplane to...and it went to the graveyard over a little argument with the pilot over whether to climb or not. GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Update on Wingtip Overkill
Looks good from the top. Looking at the underside of the tip area, I bet you will also need to add some bottom false ribs to keep the lower fabric from pushing up against your new wingtip rib from the bottom too. Essentially, Kolb has the rib/false rib spacing about right along the bottom, probably need to maintain that all the way out to the tip to keep the fabric off your new brace. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >At the good advice of Richard Pike and Jim Miller I did a stretch test and >sure nuff , the wingtip rib got into the fabric. SOOOO , one extra rib was >called for. It will just be a little truer curve around to the tip...yea , >that's my story and I'm still sticking to it!!! > >Here's what it looks like... > >http://d-bcasey.home.mindspring.com/w6.jpg > >Jeremy Casey >jrcasey(at)mindspring.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "PFI" <redhill(at)rose.net>
Subject: Re: spins 06/22/00
Date: Jun 23, 2000
Big Lar wrote: If you haven't been there, you can't believe how fast that airplane can spin, and how disorienting it is. I agree that if you haven't done a spin with an instructor, you should. I got a license in the 60's but never actually did spins until last year when I purchased a Champ to train in. My first spin caught me grabbing the support frame to hold on instead of following on the control stick with my instructor. Actually doing a spin will enlighten you as to how dramatic it can be. Once you do a few, they are great fun and will not shock you so much anymore. I think I actually could recover from an unexpected one as long as I had plenty of altitude. I recommend any of you without spin training, get some lessons actually doing several spins. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Update on Wingtip Overkill
Date: Jun 23, 2000
The plans don't show a bottom false rib anywhere on the wingtip bow section as best I can tell and the bottom of my brace is the same elevation as the lower tube would be on the standard brace , so I didn't think the fabric would be a concern on the bottom. I put one on there just to brace off the bottom flange of the formed aluminum brace to add to the rigidity. Did you put in bottom false ribs on your wingtip??? I've not seen on any M3's I've seen but then again there is a lot that I haven't seen.... Jeremy "curiosity aroused" Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 11:59 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Update on Wingtip Overkill Looks good from the top. Looking at the underside of the tip area, I bet you will also need to add some bottom false ribs to keep the lower fabric from pushing up against your new wingtip rib from the bottom too. Essentially, Kolb has the rib/false rib spacing about right along the bottom, probably need to maintain that all the way out to the tip to keep the fabric off your new brace. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >At the good advice of Richard Pike and Jim Miller I did a stretch test and >sure nuff , the wingtip rib got into the fabric. SOOOO , one extra rib was >called for. It will just be a little truer curve around to the tip...yea , >that's my story and I'm still sticking to it!!! > >Here's what it looks like... > >http://d-bcasey.home.mindspring.com/w6.jpg > >Jeremy Casey >jrcasey(at)mindspring.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: spins
The > Kolb airfoil > is a Very high lift/high drag type as found on most ultralights The low, > sharp > leading edge gives it the characteristic of sudden stall. > If you want fun, have John H. do settling with power at 3000agl in a > TH33 (damn right seaters) Bob and Gang: Still in that right seat in my MK III. That's a Hughes TH-55. Got to dramatically disagree with you on your comment, "gives it the characteristic of sudden stall". No way in all the hours I have flown Kolbs, which all use the same identical airfoil, have I found on to make a "sudden stall." Never. If you ease up to it (the stall) it will just sit there and nibble away, but never actually break. If it does stall, it goes into a controlable mush, most of the time. A hint of forward stick and it is flying. As long as the stick is held back it will think it is an elevator. To demonstrate a classic stall (like regular airplanes) one must pull the nose of the Kolb up to a very high angle of attack without power. When it slows almost to a stop, push the stick will forward. Then the nose will drop. People on the ground will think you did a "real" stall. Although a very forgiving airplane, if the aircraft is stalled/mushed close to the ground, there will not be sufficient altitude to recover. Accelerated stalls are very difficult to perform. I used to try and demonstrate them in Fat Albert at Sun and Fun. Never was successful. Tight turn, lack of airspeed and it will fall out of the turn. If you don't get the nose down, at low altitude it could fall side ways right into the ground. Not a good idea to do high G steep banked turns if you do not have the altitude to recover. I try to keep up my airspeed, keep one eye on the ASI, and enjoy my airplane. Got to have sufficient airspeed to fly. No one or no aircraft is exempt from gravity. Got to finish loading my airplane and go for a ride in the morning. Take care, fly safe. john h PS Don't have time to proof read this, so if there is a mistake/typo, forgive me and chew me out when I get back home. :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net>
Subject: Kolb Trailer
Date: Jun 23, 2000
Does anyone have a good picture of the open Kolb trailer that they could email me. Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Radios
Date: Jun 23, 2000
Strange, I didn't get the original message, and I went back and looked. Current state of the radio testing is this: Boyd Young's little co-ax antenna is real interesting, and I kind of think my old friends' bipole will work, and work well, but is a little overkill - especially after a bit of testing. Boyd's is 1000% easier to mount, too. Just tape it inside the nose cone. I tried the little $34.95 SWR meter that was recommended on the list, ( bought it thru Ham Radio Outlet ) and didn't like it. I found it to be twitchy and erratic. So I called the HRO store in Anaheim, about 100 mi. away, and drove over there last Saturday, to trade the meter for a better one. Really GREAT people to deal with. Came away with a 2 needle Diamond Antenna Mod. SX40C Cross Needle SWR-Power Meter. 80 bucks all told, but WHAT a difference. This is a real instrument. It measures forward power on 1 needle, and reflected power on the other. Where the needles cross is the SWR. Basically, it seems that the lower the reflected power, the better the SWR. Some of you radio guys will probably tear me apart on this, but I'm learning, honest. Took about a 10 ft. length of RG-58 co-ax, with a BNC connector at one end, and attached an alligator clip to each lead at the other. While experimenting with clipping wires, it makes it much easier to hook on a new wire. Just used lengths of insulated 18 ga. stranded wire. Going with the calculated bipole lengths of 24" on the center wire, ( actually started at 25" ) and on the braid, closest I could get was about an SWR of 4. Started trimming a 1/4" at a time off both, and at about 21", came up with an SWR of 2. Hmmmm..............not the way it's supposed to work. This is tedious, as well. Several hrs. of fiddling so far. Then, just noodling, I thought, "Well, a ground plane is supposed to reflect the transmitted wave, right ??" Maybe not, but anyway, I tied a loose loop in the lower ( braid ) side, held it with a clothes pin, and ---------Voila ! ! ! ------ SWR of 1.2. Excited now, I tried different shapes and configurations of that magic loop, and have it now to where the reflected wave needle barely moves. Upper wire doesn't seem to care if it's straight or curved. This is on flat ground, 4 miles from the airport, inside an aluminum mobile home, with the "antenna" clothes pinned to the drapes. While fooling with this, I forgot I was listening to P.S. approach, until a Bonanza driver complained that a carrier wave was blotting out the approach controllers instructions. I'll deny this to the death ! ! ! Interesting thing is that I'm using an ancient Narco HT 830 handheld for these tests. Meter shows my output at 1.2 watts. You can believe I instantly changed channels too. Question for you radio types ---- why would that loop make such a difference ?? How can I trim the antenna to get the same effect ?? You may sincerely believe that I'll be buying no antennas, when a few feet of co-ax does at least as good a job, if not better. Good on you, Boyd. Experimenter Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 7:35 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Radio Stuffear.navy.mil> > > > A couple weeks ago, Michael Harter, John King, and I flew to the Va. > >State Fly-in. I flew with John, in his plane, and we followed Michael. We > >flew off his aft stbd quarter (nautical talk) most of the way and Mikes > >transmissions were very weak and garbbled to the point, we could barely > >understand him. John said, they had experienced the problem before when ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Fw: Request for assistance/Fligh info
Date: Jun 23, 2000
----- Original Message ----- From: Lindy Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 3:30 PM Subject: Request for assistance/Fligh info Recommended to a friend to get the new Mark3 with 912--he is seriously considering getting a pelican w/912 w/approx. 8 hours for a very good price. Have seen Pelican at a few airshows w/VW engines--would appreciate it greatly if anyone on list can provide me an info-god,bad, or otherwise on this bird. I got 8 pages of pictures but know nothing about Pelican-or were I can get good info on this experimental bird. Read about MK3 crash in Big sky country before I went flying yesterday afternoon late.. Temp here for past month have been in high 90"s--no rain-most of the time high humidity---did a modification on 582--moved radiators to front of engine. Water pump housing rotated 180 with no problem. Only major change was a little xtra water hose needed. Been 180F on climb out--big improvement in temp on climbout--a drop of 15F---flew at 6000 RPM---4500---5000 to see if any major changes in temp-made long 1000-to 1500 climbs----yesterday ground temp after a slight drizzle was in low 90's---definite improvement noted in high temp-high humidity environment.Wil make additional checks early Sat morning on Flight to Grand Ridge,Florida before the temp gets real hot--expected 91F by noon.Using Orange antifreeze properly mixed. It looks like the bottom line for 582 operation w/2 on board in Deep South is early morning or late afternoon flying in summer months when high temps 90 plus. On many occasions I have stated to many newcomers to either get a ride with someone that has flown a Mark3 or get formal instruction.Did not want to hurt anyone's feelings on the list but wanted to give an honest answer.I fully understand someone who has built/bought a Mark3 wanting to fly it--which is a lot different from taxiing it!Remember in this business never confuse time and proficiency! Also did a dead stick landing from 1500 feet--not over field-approx. 1/2 mile from field -grass approx. 1260 feet-flying speed 65-turned engine off-lowered nose-1 notch of flaps-when flying speed dropped to 50-raised flaps-and landed between 55-60--a little hot but more than adequate speed to make a safe engine out landing--immediately used full flaps on ground and brakes-used approx. 400-425 feet of grass runway--time of landing 752PM CST--approx. weight of passengers 400lbs -approx. 5 gallons of fuel.Wind SW--5MPH Calm. Again tried to fly it with the rudder during straight and level flight-properly trimmed. Interesting experience! If you have not tried it-try it next chance you get.-everything against you from P factor to ????. Lindy LA-Lower Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Date: Jun 23, 2000
Subject: banking stalls/cross-control
Clay, All of the responses that I read are very good to keep out of a stall while banking the plane, especially at low altitude. I believe this can sneak up on you since stalling the plane while banked is quite a bit different than when straight and level. The banking stall will happen quick, and it almost wants to do a snap roll. Hit the opposite rudder hard and it comes right out of it. In a slip, the controls are crossed, right aileron and left rudder. If the slip is on the edge of a stall and in a bank, the stage is set for a spin. For some reason, that spin can be aggravated even more if the controls are left aileron and right rudder close to stall. When at low altitudes, the two things that keep the plane from falling out of the air are: 1) airspeed (keep the stick forward and carry lots of power so the plane is nowhere near stall .... 50-60mph) 2) watch that little instrument (the one everyone should have on their plane that costs about a penny) .......... the yaw string. That little string has saved my butt many times by letting me know when the plane is slipping. Put it in the center of the windscreen where the nose joins the lexan. It should be about 5" long and it can be taped in place in about 2 minutes. If the string is to the left, hit right rudder. To the right, use left rudder. Do this and you will be safe ...... and not to worry about falling down and hurting yourself ..... Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar > I am looking for some assurance that this won't happen to me. >Although I have a pilots license, my 25 years of inactivity has made me >unclear about the sequence of stall, spin, overcorrection, stall and spin >situation. Could > someone elaborate? > > Thanks, > Clay Stuart > Danville KY ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 2000
From: Randy Settle <rsettle(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Mark III crash
Hi all, From here in Michigan Just wanted to let everyone know I made my first flight in my 1986 Firestar 377 on fathers day, all went well and I now have 4.3 hours on the little bugger. Thanks for all the advice. Lurking helps alot and your experience is invaluable. Thanks again. Randy Randy & Val Settle Original Firestar I The Lazair News Letter http://www.flash.net/~rsettle/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 23, 2000
Subject: Re: FireFly Glide Ratio
Woke up at 5 o'clock this morning and could not hear any wind outside so I checked the outback visibility. Perfect. At the airport everything was quiet except my hangar door. When I announced my departure I am sure no one heard me, the whole place was mine again. The one thing I have not explored was the glide ratio of my FireFly. I climbed to 2,000' cleared the air, set the throttle at ~2,500rpm, lined up with my GPS destination and started a 40 mph glide. It took a couple of tries to get this all coordinated but I did get one clean run. According to my GPS and my altimeter I lost ~ 600' over a one mile run. The glide ratio works out to be about 8.8:1. This means that if my plane suddenly becomes a glider someday while I am flying at 2,000' I will have find a place to set her down within about 3 miles of my location at the time. This applies to my plane, in it's current flight configuration, with me (155 Lbs) and ~ 4 gallons of fuel and no wind and no turns. Granted that's a lot of conditions but before this test all I had was intuition which can always use help. Confirming tests will be conducted and posted. After the testing I did a couple of simulated engine out approaches some touch and goes (gotta work on raising the flaps after the touch part). Got home in time to make my 10:30 appointment too! Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly, 447, Ivo, big wheels, full canopy. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: wing
Date: Jun 23, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Robert F. Bean <rfbean(at)rochester.infi.net> Date: Friday, June 23, 2000 5:45 PM Subject: Kolb-List: wing > >Thanks to John for his description of stall response of the Kolb wing. >As I >haven't flown one yet, but plan to, it gives me good assurance. What >was meant >by "sudden stall" characteristics is that if a u/l hi lift airfoil and a >more common gen av airfoil are subjected to fast/hi loading stall, the >gen av will give an earlier >warning, burble,tremors, shudders, etc. before actual stall. Since most of the reason GA planes stall with lots of warning is that the wings have lots of washout. The outboard portion of the wing is at much less angle of attack then the inboard portion. the inboard part of the wing stalls and makes a loud rumbling on the fuslage while the outboard part of the wing, including the ailerons, is still flying along. the airfoils help a bit but it is the washout that is the main improvement in stall characteristics. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Spins
Date: Jun 23, 2000
In my C-152 training we did all kinds of stalls but no spins. Tried to do spins one time with my instructor but with the 152 you had to really force it and we only did 1 or 2 that were more like tight spirals. The best thing I ever did was to get about 5 hours of acrobatic training in a Decathlon. The first time I was inverted I was scared stiff. The same thing when in a tight spin. But the more you do it the fear goes away and you are able to think about what is happening and to apply the controls correctly. After awhile your reactions are automatic and the panic of being in an unusual attitude is completely gone. I would in no way consider myself an acrobatic pilot. However, I think it was one of the best learning experiences I have had and would recommend that any pilot should consider having the training. Money well spent! Rody (building a Mark III) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: FireFly Glide Ratio
According to my GPS > and my altimeter I lost ~ 600' over a one mile run. The glide ratio works out > to be about 8.8:1. This means that if my plane suddenly becomes a glider > someday while I am flying at 2,000' I will have find a place to set her down > within about 3 miles of my location at the time. > Duane Duane and Gang: As you progress to actual engine off/dead stick landings, you will find that your Firefly is suddenly a much more efficient glider. I find it necessary for me to practice dead stick so I will know what my airplane is going to do when it suddenly gets very quite. At that time there is not much time to think and make decisions. Probably get a 10 to 20 percent glide increas once that big disc is reduced to two or three skinny blades. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cal" <cgreen(at)powerweb.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Trailer
Date: Jun 23, 2000
Yes I do, and it is for sale. Cal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 3:40 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb Trailer > > Does anyone have a good picture of the open Kolb trailer that they could > email me. Thanks > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 23, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb Trailer
I'd like to see this picture as well, how much you asking for yours, will it carry a Mark III? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Trailer
Date: Jun 23, 2000
Cal where are you located and how much do you want for the trailer. Thanks Randy -----Original Message----- From: Cal <cgreen(at)powerweb.net> Date: Friday, June 23, 2000 10:28 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Trailer > >Yes I do, and it is for sale. Cal >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> >To: "Kolb" >Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 3:40 PM >Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb Trailer > > >> >> Does anyone have a good picture of the open Kolb trailer that they could >> email me. Thanks >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Wing storage
Date: Jun 24, 2000
I have been too chatty lately and I apologize... I have got 1 wing completely finished now and need to store it while I build the second one. Is there any problem with standing it up on the trailing edge??? This might sound stupid I just looked across the shop at a sheet of plywood that had been leaning against the wall for awhile and the warp that was in it now made me think...I have put it on scraps of carpet were it is kept off the rather uneven concrete on 3 blocks (all placed under a rib) Does this sound OK??? Hanging it from the ceiling would be hard for me and there's no where that I can lay it flat.... Jeremy "Don't want to build it twice" Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Subject: Re: Wing storage
I think most of us just stored the wings on the floor, propped up, resting on the trailing edge. I didn't see any problems with mine! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cal" <cgreen(at)powerweb.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Trailer
Date: Jun 23, 2000
the trailer i'm selling was built for a firestar II , I don't think a mark III will fit because of the wider wheels. I'm asking $300.00 it has less than 50 miles on it, I'm located in waupun wisconsin, which is 60 miles north of milwaukee. Cal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 10:33 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Trailer > > Cal > where are you located and how much do you want for the trailer. Thanks > Randy > -----Original Message----- > From: Cal <cgreen(at)powerweb.net> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Friday, June 23, 2000 10:28 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Trailer > > > > > >Yes I do, and it is for sale. Cal > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Randy" <yamaha(at)cvn.net> > >To: "Kolb" > >Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 3:40 PM > >Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb Trailer > > > > > >> > >> Does anyone have a good picture of the open Kolb trailer that they could > >> email me. Thanks > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Radios
Date: Jun 23, 2000
A quick update: today I talked to my antenna mentor up in Washington, and he chewed me out for being lazy. I guess that loop that I was so happy about is a "choke", and downgrades performance, even tho' it shows good on the meter. So, I built another antenna out of coat hangers and co-ax, and got to trimming it. From where the co-ax splits it should be 24" each way. Takes a while, but before the batteries went dead, I managed to get the SWR down to 1.2 with straight elements. It sure listens good; it's going to be interesting to talk on it. Probably more than good enuf, but will keep fiddling with it, just because. Learning Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Bourne <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 1:40 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Radios > > Strange, I didn't get the original message, and I went back and looked. > Current state of the radio testing is this: Boyd Young's little co-ax > antenna is real interesting, and I kind of think my old friends' bipole will > work, and work well, but is a little overkill - especially after a bit of > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Subject: Re: banking stalls/cross-control
In a message dated 6/23/00 6:29:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ul15rhb(at)juno.com writes: << 1) airspeed (keep the stick forward and carry lots of power so the plane is nowhere near stall .... 50-60mph) 2) watch that little instrument (the one everyone should have on their plane that costs about a penny) .......... the yaw string. That little string has saved my butt many times by letting me know when the plane is slipping. Put it in the center of the windscreen where the nose joins the lexan. It should be about 5" long and it can be taped in place in about 2 minutes. If the string is to the left, hit right rudder. To the right, use left rudder. Do this and you will be safe ...... and not to worry about falling down and hurting yourself ..... Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar >> Ralph, you must be an old glider pilot too, and that is the way I feel about it as well, if the plane is flying coordinated then each wing is flying the same speed and your chances of stalling right or left are minimal. Wouldn't go without my yaw string!!...after all, we have all that do nothing space up front in our pushers ...may as well use it for something really important, something that helps us fine tune! GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Subject: Re: Mark III crash
In a message dated 6/23/00 7:08:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rsettle(at)flash.net writes: << Hi all, From here in Michigan Just wanted to let everyone know I made my first flight in my 1986 Firestar 377 on fathers day, all went well and I now have 4.3 hours on the little bugger. Thanks for all the advice. Lurking helps alot and your experience is invaluable. Thanks again. Randy >> Randy!...Wow! what a great web page you have! Your first love is a Lazair and I can see why...that puppy is CUTE with its 2 little engines and weird tail. But isn't the tail a problem on landing? Please don't lurk and make a comparison of the Firestar and Lazair....you have a lot to offer this list. Its my guess that the lazair would be like flying a bomber compared to the flying tiger Firestar. eh, what? GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Subject: Re: FireFly Glide Ratio
In a message dated 6/23/00 7:20:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time, MitchMnD(at)aol.com writes: << According to my GPS and my altimeter I lost ~ 600' over a one mile run. The glide ratio works out to be about 8.8:1. >> Duane the plane in Tal... you have concluded the same as I have on L/D ratio that the Firestar gets around 9:1 glide ratio...I've done mine the same way you have and proven the same thing on a windless or windy day (just a little bit windy) several times. I suspect that the L/D is a little higher in reality when the engine goes completely silent as the drag is supposed to reduce when the prop is not rotating. 2500 rpm would probably be about neutral though. GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: Wing storage
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Hi Jeremy and Gang, This is exactly the way I have been keeping mine for the past couple of months. I don't believe aluminum is going to have the same properties as wood when it comes to taking a set or bow. Anyway I haven't worried about mine and anytime I put my Smart Tool on them they have been flat. I will be covering mine in the next week or so I hope. Almost finished with the tail feathers and have one aileron done. Later, John Cooley Building FS II #1162 > I have got 1 wing completely finished now and need to store it while I build > the second one. Is there any problem with standing it up on the trailing > edge ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 24, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Day One
Morning Gang: My MK III, Miss P'fer, was loaded last night after some deep thought and a little pushing and shoving. I packed on the heavy side here at the house. When it came time to load I realized that some of those extras would not make the trip, i.e., extra clothes, oil, and some items I did not have to have. It is just getting gray light and I am ready to make the 5 minute drive to Gantt International Airport. Time to pinch myself and get a reality check. It is true. I am ready to go. I'll see some of you along the way. The rest of you when I get back home and back on line. I'll try to make ya'll proud of Kolb and our little nitch in sport aviation. Take care and fly safe, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Subject: Re: Wing storage
Jeremy, If you are building in a garage or shed, get some bicycle storage hooks that screw into the ceiling joists. Then get some nylon ribbon strap (they sell it off the roll at most hardware stores) and loop it around each end of the wing tieing off the end that hangs on the hook using two straps. This way the wing is up and out of the way next to a wall. Ralph Original FireStar completely finished now and need to store it while > I build > the second one. Is > Jeremy "Don't want to build it twice" Casey > jrcasey(at)mindspring.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 24, 2000
From: Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tanks
Kolbers, Some where, I read about an ingenious fuel tank setup where two 5 gal tanks where used in such a way that after the 1st tank was used up, it proceeded to draw fuel from the 2nd tank & empty it. This was all done without switching a valve. Anyone know the details? ...Richard S ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Day One
Date: Jun 24, 2000
YOU fly safe, John. Our thoughts are with you. Envious Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2000 3:45 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Day One > > Morning Gang: > > My MK III, Miss P'fer, was loaded last night after some deep > thought and a little pushing and shoving. I packed on the > heavy side here at the house. When it came time to load I > realized that some of those extras would not make the trip, > i.e., extra clothes, oil, and some items I did not have to > have. > > It is just getting gray light and I am ready to make the 5 > minute drive to Gantt International Airport. Time to pinch > myself and get a reality check. It is true. I am ready to > go. I'll see some of you along the way. The rest of you > when I get back home and back on line. > > I'll try to make ya'll proud of Kolb and our little nitch in > sport aviation. > > Take care and fly safe, > > john h > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Strobe Mounting
Date: Jun 24, 2000
I'm installing the Aeroflash strobes. They have individual power units for each wingtip strobe, andI thought it would be good to mount them out in each wing to minimize the high-power line length, to minimize rf noise. The problem is that they are a little too big to fit through a 4 3/8" inspection ring, so getting to them to remove and replace would involve some fabric destruction and repair. The alternative is to mount them in the fuselage and run shielded wire out to the strobes. I could use a good idea how to mount them in the wing so they would be accessible later. Any of you doing this? TIA - Duncan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Phil & Sara Lohiser" <philsara(at)modex.com>
Subject: Fire Fly
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Fire Fly Builders Would like to contact someone in northeast Ohio who is building a fire Fly , would prefer one that has just been started or in early stage of construction , I live approx. 30 mi. east of Cleve. Thanks Phil L. EAA # 12873 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tanks
Richard, I believe that I'm the one, because I did it to my Firestar II and I know of no one else doing it. Here is how it works: The front tank has the air vent pluged. It also feeds the fuel pump and has a top line connected to the pickup from the rear tank. The rear tank is vented normally. What happens is; the rear tank empties first and then the front tank. When I fill the tanks, the front is always filled first. This has two advantages, in my mind. 1) The CG will be farther forward, except when I have both tanks full. 2) I can run both tanks almost dry. With the standard setup, I worry about the tanks draining unevenly, and starving for gas before the tanks are really empty. If this isn't clear, let me know and I will try again. John Jung Richard Swiderski wrote: > > Kolbers, > > Some where, I read about an ingenious fuel tank setup where two 5 gal tanks > where used in such a way that after the 1st tank was used up, it proceeded to > draw fuel from the 2nd tank & empty it. This was all done without switching a > valve. > Anyone know the details? ...Richard S ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AV8REXP(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Subject: Re: Day One
Wishing you blue skys and tailwinds! I will try and find you at Oshkosh. Jay Stevens EAA 1209 St. Elmo Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tanks
Date: Jun 24, 2000
>Here is how it works: The front tank has the air vent pluged. It also feeds the >fuel pump and has a top line connected to the pickup from the rear tank. The rear >tank is vented normally. What happens is; the rear tank empties first and then the >front tank. When I fill the tanks, the front is always filled first. I read this back when you first posted it and it worried me a bit because if you get even a small air leak in the front tank or the line between front and rear tank then you will not draw from the rear tank at all. I dont think I would trust the cap on one of these tanks to be airtight or I lose half my fuel capacity. Trying to monitor the rear tank for fuel is difficult, so it would be hard to tell that you were not drawing fuel from way back there. Never fly by time you think you have left, alway fly by what you actually have in the tank that is drawing at the time. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: banking stalls/cross-control
Date: Jun 24, 2000
if the plane is flying coordinated then each wing is flying the >same speed and your chances of stalling right or left are minimal Even if your flying coordinated the wing on the outside of a turn is going a greater distance then the wing on the inside, and is at a lower angle of attack, and the inboard wing will stall first if you get to stall aoa. flying uncoordinated will make this much worse so the yaw string or other slip indicator is a great way to help prevent the inboard wing from stalling, but you can still do it. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: How to make a FS II into a parts donor
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Frank, >Upon extracting myself (undamaged) from the FS II (not undamaged) and >further review with my son and his video... Any chance of us seeing the video... I think it would bring the lesson home by seeing what happens if we are not perfect when we fly. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 24, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com>
Subject: firestar
Where abouts in Michigan? > >Hi all, From here in Michigan >Just wanted to let everyone know I made my first flight in my 1986 >Firestar 377 >on fathers day, all went well and I now have 4.3 hours on the little bugger. >Thanks for all the advice. Lurking helps alot and your experience is >invaluable. > >Thanks again. >Randy > >Randy & Val Settle >Original Firestar I > >The Lazair News Letter >http://www.flash.net/~rsettle/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "plane" <plane(at)atomic.net>
Subject: prop wanted
Date: Jun 24, 2000
I need a prop for a ultrastar 50X30 If you have one that you would like to sell please contact me. Randy soob poward ultrastar 336 857 2440 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Re: Lindy's radiator
Date: Jun 24, 2000
The split radiators were on the rear of the 582. Made 2nd test flight today-had to delay take off for a short time do to fog-ceiling max approx. 500ft. Really tested system today in 91F --100 % humidity--flew from Ashford, Alabama to Marianna, Florida--had to put down for coffee as fog and visibility a problem--max temp on climbout with 2 on board to approx. 1500 feet--170--throttled back cruised about 65---temp dropped to approx. 150-155.F--made a long slow climb to 3000 -watched temp gauge very closely--temp stayed about 155.steady-no fluctuations on needle ( Gauge) Met Panama City Gang-many on this list at Glen Rincks place in Grand Ridge Florida--he like the VGs on Mark3--probably will put 8 more--4 on each side on the doors --Mark 3 is fully enclosed--to improve air flow in prop area.Aware that many have not considered this --but being an old timer I have put VG's on rudders and it is like having power steering--some put under the vertical stabilizer--also works. As many of you know Glen Rinch is known as the master Kolb Builder-had him look at this one--Ser # 043 and see what will be required to convert it to the new Mark 3--wider-longer nose etc.He has built many Mark 3's but not the new one. 2.1 hours in high temp high humidity weather here in Lower Alabama--100% improvement in Temp from what it was--by moving split radiators to front-eliminated the following problems--heat from muffler--being transferred to one radiator--this heat-would not allow the (1) radiator to let water cool in top tank which is very small or through cores to bottom-the bottom line was hot water entering engine-when it could have or should be a lot less --also find it a lot easier to pre-flight engine. As u probably know the small plastic centrifugal impeller inside the water pump housing was probably designed for a kids toy.--minimal in my opinion. Bottom line a major improvement!. Lindy LA-Lower Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tanks
Topher, All I can say is I haven't had a problem yet with a air leak. And if I did, I would see the front tank getting lower and be able to stop and fix the leak. Also, I don't monitor the rear tank. If my front tank is full, then I know I am still drawing on the rear tank. I can fly 100 miles before I start to draw on the front tank. I know my fuel burn accurate enough that I don't need to chect it for the first 5 gallons. John Jung Christopher John Armstrong wrote: > > I read this back when you first posted it and it worried me a bit because if > you get even a small air leak in the front tank or the line between front > and rear tank then you will not draw from the rear tank at all. I dont > think I would trust the cap on one of these tanks to be airtight or I lose > half my fuel capacity. Trying to monitor the rear tank for fuel is > difficult, so it would be hard to tell that you were not drawing fuel from > way back there. Never fly by time you think you have left, alway fly by > what you actually have in the tank that is drawing at the time. > > Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 24, 2000
From: Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tanks
John, Thanks for the reply. That is the setup I was thinking of. It is such a simple idea. I hope you don't mind if I steal it! ...Richard S do not archeve John Jung wrote: > > Richard, > > I believe that I'm the one, because I did it to my Firestar II and I know of no > one else doing it. > > Here is how it works: The front tank has the air vent pluged. It also feeds the > fuel pump and has a top line connected to the pickup from the rear tank. The rear > tank is vented normally. What happens is; the rear tank empties first and then the > front tank. When I fill the tanks, the front is always filled first. > > This has two advantages, in my mind. > > 1) The CG will be farther forward, except when I have both tanks full. > > 2) I can run both tanks almost dry. With the standard setup, I worry about the > tanks draining unevenly, and starving for gas before the tanks are really empty. > > If this isn't clear, let me know and I will try again. > > John Jung > > Richard Swiderski wrote: > > > > > Kolbers, > > > > Some where, I read about an ingenious fuel tank setup where two 5 gal tanks > > where used in such a way that after the 1st tank was used up, it proceeded to > > draw fuel from the 2nd tank & empty it. This was all done without switching a > > valve. > > Anyone know the details? ...Richard S > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Subject: Re: FireFly Glide Ratio
Hello Geo, Thanks for the response. I was pleased to hear that someone else has helped confirm my conclusion. I think we swapped E-mails a few years ago when I was planning a trip up your way. I am going Tallmadge OH for my grand daughter's wedding the week of July 22. Maybe we can get together for a cup of coffee or an adult beverage sometime near the middle of that week. We are driving there this time so I'll have my own car and be able to get around without imposing on my hosts. Duane Mitchell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Subject: Re: prop wanted
Randy, I have a 52 1/2" Precision, ground adjustable, laminated maple prop you may be interested in. It is a right handed prop. Standing at the tail of the plane looking Fwd the top goes to the right. I'll sell it for $150 plus shipping. Duane Mitchell, Tallahassee, FL,(850) 878-9047 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Subject: Re: 503 Spark Plug Gap
Go to your local model airplane shop and buy some spring steel wire they sell for their landing gear push rods etc. Take your micrometer along and make sure you get .018 in. wire. You will have about 3' of material you can cut into suitable lengths and make enough plug gap gages to have several spares and give the rest to your flying pals. Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL,FireFly, 447, Ivo, full canopy, big wheels. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Subject: blimp & barn fire
Date: Jun 24, 2000
Hi all. I had some interesting flights this week. On Wednesday, I noticed the Good Year Blimp in the area so I jumped in the plane and chased him around for a while. On Friday night I was taking a couple friends for a ride and noticed some smoke. Checked it out and it was a big barn fire. I've gotten in the habit of taking my camera along. You never know what you might see. I posted a few pictures of the blimp and the fire if any of you care to check them out. This is a doorway page to my wife's web site. Just click on the links at the bottom of the page and take a look at Lancaster County PA. http://www.hydrosoft.net/tswartz/ Terry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 24, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tanks
Richard, If I didn't want anyone to use it, I would have never posted it. Just let me know if you ever have a problem with it. It has worked well for me for around 130 hours. John Jung Richard Swiderski wrote: > > John, > > Thanks for the reply. That is the setup I was thinking of. It is such a simple > idea. I hope you don't mind if I steal it! ...Richard S > > do not archeve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Subject: Re: Day One
Hey John, I think we at Shannon caught you passing on your first day. As you left Russell Field, Jack and myself had just landed at Shannon. You passed over the ridge just northeast of Russell Field and were about 1/8 mile north of our place. Too bad we didn't have radios handy before you got out of sight. It appeared you circled about 1 mile north of us for some reason but we could barely see you. Good luck. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 25, 2000
From: Randy Settle <rsettle(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:Forward stick pressure
GeoR38 and Gang Thanks for the nice comments about the web page. That's what makes those 1 am web repairs and such worth while. In regards to the Lazair being a "Bomber compared to the flying tiger Firestar" . I think you hit the mark. Been flying the Lazair for 5 years now and was ready to move up. Landing is basically the same (except for speed) attitude seems about the same. The tail has castering wheels. Comes in at a nice 3 point(4) landing or mains first. Settle's right back on the tail with differential power steering, ruttavatior assist. You can also use the "Flintstone brake method". I have many times! I have a question though, When flying flat and level @ 60 indicated, should my "Original Firestar" force me to apply forward stick pressure. Nothing extreme but, just not used to having to do that. Thanks. Randy ps. I have set up a picture page e on the website below. You just click on the Kolb Aircraft banner at the bottom of the first page. Thanks again. -- Randy & Val Settle Original Firestar 377 The Lazair News Letter http://www.flash.net/~rsettle/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GDLedbette(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Subject: Re: blimp & barn fire
In a message dated 6/24/00 10:12:01 PM, tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net writes: << http://www.hydrosoft.net/tswartz/ >> Fabulous pictures. What brand digital camera? Gene ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Subject: blimp & barn fire
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Gene I know camera discussion is off topic, so those not interested, delete now. The camera is an Olympus DL-600 with a 3 X optical zoom. It is about a year and half old when 1.4 Mega Pixels was something to talk about, so the technology is outdated by now. they were taken with the lowest resolution through the lexan door of my MK III and then loaded directly to the web page. The pictures probably load a little slow because I didn't take the time to optimize them for a web site, a process that takes the jpg files to a lower resolution, thus smaller file, yet good enough for most computer monitors. Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of GDLedbette(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 8:43 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: blimp & barn fire In a message dated 6/24/00 10:12:01 PM, tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net writes: << http://www.hydrosoft.net/tswartz/ >> Fabulous pictures. What brand digital camera? Gene ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:Forward stick pressure
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Randy, I've got a Firestar 2 that has the same symptoms. It always requires forward pressure on the stick to keep it from trying to climb. I tried changing the incidence of the horizontal tail by adding brackets to the Kolb supplied supports. Didn't work. I'm told by the local "experts" that I'd need to change the wing incidence to correct this. I'm going to put on a trim tab. Geoff Thistlethwaite Anyone else have this problem? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Settle" <rsettle(at)flash.net> > I have a question though, When flying flat and level @ 60 indicated, should my > "Original Firestar" force me to apply forward stick pressure. Nothing extreme > but, just not used to having to do that. Thanks. > Randy > ps. I have set up a picture page e on the website below. > You just click on the Kolb Aircraft banner at the bottom of the first page. > Thanks again. > > -- > Randy & Val Settle > Original Firestar 377 > > The Lazair News Letter > http://www.flash.net/~rsettle/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:Forward stick pressure
In a message dated 6/25/00 1:21:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net writes: << Anyone else have this problem? >> Yep - me, too. I added a trim tab and it solved the problem. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Subject: Re: Ultra-prop
Have been trying to find a Website or address or phone # for Ultra-prop as I need 13 can anyone help? Howard Shackleford SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 25, 2000
From: Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net>
Subject: Re: blimp & barn fire
Terry wrote: > > > Hi all. > > I had some interesting flights this week. On Wednesday, I noticed the Good > Year Blimp in the area so I jumped in the plane and chased him around for a > while. On Friday night I was taking a couple friends for a ride and noticed > some smoke. Checked it out and it was a big barn fire. I've gotten in the > habit of taking my camera along. You never know what you might see. snip take a look at Lancaster County PA. > > http://www.hydrosoft.net/tswartz/ Terry, Great Picts. I also flew around that fire. I probably arrived just as you were departing. It took me wail to get there after I first noticed it. I stayed mostly on the upwind side but noticed a plane to the south. I didn't recognize it but it was probably you. When I was there there many more people and fire equipment at the site. I missed the blimp though. It was a beautiful evening to be flying. I'm going to have get me an Olympus. | _____|_____ *============================R============================* \ / \ / (/---\) \___/ / \ () () Eugene Zimmerman ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 25, 2000
From: Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net>
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:Forward stick pressure
Geoff Thistlethwaite wrote: > > > Randy, > I've got a Firestar 2 that has the same symptoms. It always requires forward > pressure on the stick to keep it from trying to climb. I tried changing the > incidence of the horizontal tail by adding brackets to the Kolb supplied > supports. Didn't work. > I'm told by the local "experts" that I'd need to change the wing incidence > to correct this. > I'm going to put on a trim tab. > Geoff Thistlethwaite Before you add trim tabs try adjusting the ailerons down a few turns. No trim tabs should be needed. Pitch trim is easily adjusted in this way. | _____|_____ *============================R============================* \ / \ / (/---\) \___/ / \ () () Eugene Zimmerman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Wing storage
Date: Jun 25, 2000
I put mine on two 2x6 brackets attached to the wall, and put the wing on the brackets so the main spar was resting on them...seemed like the best place to put the weight and also got them up and out of the way. Ran a couple of bungees to a couple of lag bolts above main spar to make sure the wing wouldn't come off of the brackets. -----Original Message----- From: John Cooley <johnc(at)datasync.com> Date: Saturday, June 24, 2000 4:14 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Wing storage > >Hi Jeremy and Gang, > This is exactly the way I have been keeping mine for the past couple of >months. I don't believe aluminum is going to have the same properties as >wood when it comes to taking a set or bow. Anyway I haven't worried about >mine and anytime I put my Smart Tool on them they have been flat. I will be >covering mine in the next week or so I hope. Almost finished with the tail >feathers and have one aileron done. > >Later, >John Cooley >Building FS II #1162 > > >> I have got 1 wing completely finished now and need to store it while I >build >> the second one. Is there any problem with standing it up on the trailing >> edge > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Subject: blimp & barn fire
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Eugene Sorry I missed you. After I took those pictures, I went to Smoketown. Wilmer Zimmerman in his Ultrastar had circled the fire and then went to Smoketown also. Steve Lapp was going to jump and Wilmer was doing a candy drop for someone close to Smoketown. I then went back to Lancaster, picked up another passenger and flew by the fire one more time, on my way back in to Lancaster, about 8:15 pm. Did you stop at Smoketown? Seem like if there are any UL flyers around, they stop in at Smoketown. On Wednesday night, the night I chased the Blimp, there were two UL's at Smoketown. The one guy was the short heavy set fellow that fly's that little looking UL, I think he was at Shreveport last week also. See ya later. Terry Terry, Great Picts. I also flew around that fire. I probably arrived just as you were departing. It took me wail to get there after I first noticed it. I stayed mostly on the upwind side but noticed a plane to the south. I didn't recognize it but it was probably you. When I was there there many more people and fire equipment at the site. I missed the blimp though. It was a beautiful evening to be flying. I'm going to have get me an Olympus. | _____|_____ *============================R============================* \ / \ / (/---\) \___/ / \ () () Eugene Zimmerman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Hudson" <phudson(at)iwvisp.com>
Subject: Rotax troubleshooting quiz
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Hi gang, So I've had my FS II now for a few months with but one flight. I want to tell you of my Rotax 477 problem and troubleshooting to see if there is some sage advice or lessons learned that will get me back in the air. It's a long saga but hopefully that wont put you off reading it. 1st flight: Good power on climb out with about 6100 on the tach for the first 100 feet at when I throttled back to 5500. Major excitement as it was my first Kolb flight. Big grin and climb over the airfield to about 2500 feet AGL (3900 ASL) 90 deg F. EGT at 1050 and ...Damn the CHT stopped working...was about 300 F at take off. While cruising at 5000 RPM looking around and loving life...the RPM dropped to 4000RPM and the EGT dropped to 950 F. It sounded smooth enough but like it just leaned out or had a fuel obstruction. Just as I decided to throttle back and glide home (still right over the field) it reved back to 5000 and sounded good. Boy those kind of things keep your butt a little firm! I decided against the stall series I was planning (first flight test program). Then the RPM dropped again. This time I tried the choke to see if a little more fuel was needed. no change! I throttled back to 3500 (which took a lot of lever movement) then everything sounded smooth again. I throttled up to 4500 RPM and it was okay for a few minutes. then dropped RPM and EGT again. OKAY no more trouble shooting in the air! I pulled back to 3000 rpm and brought her in. Now as I say this was my first flight in her. I had changed the fuel, checked the filters and pulled the bowl and changed the plugs before that flight. 1st thoughts: So I thought maybe some sludgy remnants from the down time before I bought her. I changed all the fuel lines, bulb and filters pulled the float bowl for inspection...no water or bugs. I pulled the jets and needles and made sure they were clean. On the advice of a local flyer I changed the pulse line to a clear one to allow visual inspection. I also put on a new fuel pump (square one) as cheap insurance. Engine run up time: I stapped her down and fired her up. this time 3300 RPM was all I could pull on the ground. ran smooth and nice right up till 3300 then more throttle just changed the tone but not the RPM. (with some loss in EGT...CHT still in-op.) thoughts: maybe clear fuel line for the pulse pump was loosing to much pulse. Maybe the bulb is too restricted. (maybe the gap on the plugs is too big). As a fan of overkill when it comes to flying I opted to put on the bigger round pump and provide a bulb bypass route. I also got some of the Pulse line from CPS and kept it short. I pulled the carb apart again looking for oddities but it looked good. The float valve would stop the flow of fuel from the bulb pressure, open jets, no dirt. I re-gapped the plugs to 0.018" (they were close). Engine run up again: same problems. Damn no flying today either. So I did some power on tests. I tried moving the needle...nope. I tried adding fuel pressure by squezzing the bulb and by blowing in the tank vent...nope. tried the mixture with the choke again...nope. I tried a little squirt from the primer...NOPE!. The one thing that did work was to hang a little bottle of fuel above the carb and gravity feed to by-pass all the fuel system. That let me rev right on up. I change the CHT sensor since the old one looked rough...it still didn't work though. Current thoughts: Maybe I'm overpowering the float valve at the higher RPMs. I'm about to order a carb rebuild kit which will allow me to change the float needle valve...Lets just say I'm not too confident after all the failed attempts. Big ticket solutions: I could buy a new carb all together but I want to now what the problem really is. If I buy a new carb I might go for an alt-compensating one...The catalogs say for the 503 but a local guy has one on his 477 any thoughts? Well thats enough for now I'm looking for any advice. Thanks in advance, -Peter- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charlie Martin" <chuggs(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Homestead General Air Fair?
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Just checking to see if anybody on the Kolb list is going to be at the Homestead General Aviation Airport Air Fair on the Weekend of July 1st & 2nd? Homestead, Florida Charlie Martin Jupiter, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: hawk36(at)mindspring.com
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Subject: Re: Day One
Hey John, I think we at Shannon caught you passing on your first day. As you left Russell Field, Jack and myself had just landed at Shannon. You passed over the ridge just northeast of Russell Field and were about 1/8 mile north of our place. Too bad we didn't have radios handy before you got out of sight. It appeared you circled about 1 mile north of us for some reason but we could barely see you. Good luck. Charlie Charlie and Kolbers: Yep, that was me. I had stopped to eat breakfast at RMG. Thought I might find ya'll's strip. Flew east out of RMG to the RR track and then north. Did a 360 to see why I had not seen you all, but still could not find the strip. Sorry I missed you all. Flew up to the BUG Blast at Springfield/Lebbanon Airport, Kentucky, then bact to the SE to Kolb Factory. Did 421 miles in 5.0 hours yesterday. Blessed with a good tailwind and clear skies. Am anxious to get on my way "officially" in the morning. In fact, I am getting down right antsey. Will try to keep Dana Labhart, the Kolb web master posted each day. Wish you were all going with me. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Experimenter
Date: Jun 25, 2000
This is a link to see the cover of the newest Experimenter magazine June 2000: http://www.eaa.org/benefits/experimenter/index.html The legend inside the cover says: "The new Kolb Mark III Xtra piloted by Company President Norm Labhart, scoots over some of the inland lakes around Lakeland Florida. (Photo by EAA Chief Photographer Jim Koepnick from a Cessna 210). Yesterday, I had the priviledge of flying with Norm over Springfield KY in that same Mark IIIXtra. He even let me "fly" it for awhile. (OK-guide it somewhat). It was rather bumpy, but the plane felt very solid. The visibility from the cockpit was fantastic. Norm made a nice landing with a 90 degree 10-15 knot crosswind. Unfortunately, the airport (Springfield-Lebanon KY) only has the one runway. That kept down the number of planes there and activity for the ones that did come. Lots of attention was paid to the Kolbs, especially the Xtra. It is a beautiful plane with a very attractive paint scheme. The event was the 7th annual Bluegrass Ultralight Group. Last year had 59 aircraft, but I believe the numbers were down this year because of the winds. We did have 4-5 trikes, 4-5 gyrocopters, factory Kolb Firestar and Xtra, 3-4 Rans, 3-4 Challengers, half dozen GA, several Quicksilvers, 1 Kolb Firestar, and a 4-place canard Cozy-type among others. I was looking forward to John Hauck being there, but he didn't make it. I think he flew on to London KY to begin his journey. I would hope that everyone could get a chance to talk and visit with Norm Labhart. He is most approachable and pleasant to be around. I am still off the ground with yesterday's experience. Clay Stuart Danville KY ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 25, 2000
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Need Measurement of FireFly
I need some one to take a measurement off there "FireFly" having a "three" blade prop. Please measure what would be the least height for the 3 blade pro, one blade up or one blade down post ion measure from the floor to the highest point of the prop. Also note if you have 5 inch or 6 inch wheels. I need this to verify the height of the height requirement for a enclosed trailer. I got a trailer but I suddenly came to me that it may not be high enough for a FireFly. Thanks, jerryb ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 25, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com>
Subject: Re: Ultra-prop
> >Have been trying to find a Website or address or phone # for Ultra-prop I think Sky sports still handles ultra props ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:Forward stick pressure
Randy, my FS2 also needed forward stick and the faster you go the more it needs I spoke to Yates at old Kolb and he said it was not uncommon. Trim of some sort will be needed. I raised the leading edge of the horizontal stab.and it helped but still required more trim which was done with a spring, cable and pulley system installed under the front seat and adjustable in flight. If you would like a drawing, holler G.Aman FS2 50Hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Grand Rapids web address?
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Can someone give me the web address for the EIS company? Thanks Denny Rowe Mk-3 under construction Vandergrift PA rowedl(at)alltel.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 25, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax troubleshooting quiz
> > >1st thoughts: So I thought maybe some sludgy remnants from the down time >before I bought her. I changed all the fuel lines, bulb and filters pulled >the float bowl for inspection...no water or bugs. I pulled the jets and >needles and made sure they were clean. On the advice of a local flyer I >changed the pulse line to a clear one to allow visual inspection. I also >put on a new fuel pump (square one) as cheap insurance. first put another new set of plugs in. That is my first rule of trouble shooting a 2 cycle no matter how new the plugs are. Next I would put a solid black fuel line on the pulse port. My Twinstar was grounded all last year because I didn't notice I had the wrong tube on the pulse port ( there were other reasons but that was the dumb one that ticked me off the most) I would run fine but slow down and cough on full throttle. Smooth out a bit if throttle reduced but still coughed a bit. Another problem I had was a ground wire in the ignition coil. It failed and the engine would only run on one cylinder. Check for a short or perhaps a loose connection on the coils. Speaking of coils could that be the problem. Once it warms up the coil changes and no longer gives a proper spark to one cylinder? Could you borrow a couple induction Tachs. Those little ones that run off a wire wound around the ignition wire. When the engine misfires there may be a difference on the 2 tachs to indicate something going wrong. Perhaps your cht does not work because there is a short some where and that is affecting the ignition some how. Of course if it runs good with a gravity feed fuel system then it could be the fuel pump itself being weak or blocked. Is the vent hole at the lowest part of the pump. There are to many variables but I hope some of these ideas may help you narrow your problem down. But as I said at the beginning try some new plugs no matter how good the others look. Perhaps a carb could be borrowed to try out on your engine. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Grand Rapids web address?
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Here you go. http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys/index.htm -----Original Message----- From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net> Date: Sunday, June 25, 2000 10:16 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Grand Rapids web address? > >Can someone give me the web address for the EIS company? >Thanks >Denny Rowe >Mk-3 under construction >Vandergrift PA >rowedl(at)alltel.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Rotax troubleshooting quiz
Date: Jun 25, 2000
If it runs ok in the three point stance on the ground, but gives you trouble in the level flight attitude, maybe you have a float level problem. Denny Rowe -----Original Message----- From: Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> Date: Sunday, June 25, 2000 10:54 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax troubleshooting quiz > > >> >> >>1st thoughts: So I thought maybe some sludgy remnants from the down time >>before I bought her. I changed all the fuel lines, bulb and filters pulled >>the float bowl for inspection...no water or bugs. I pulled the jets and >>needles and made sure they were clean. On the advice of a local flyer I >>changed the pulse line to a clear one to allow visual inspection. I also >>put on a new fuel pump (square one) as cheap insurance. > > > first put another new set of plugs in. That is my first rule of trouble >shooting a 2 cycle no matter how new the plugs are. Next I would put a >solid black fuel line on the pulse port. My Twinstar was grounded all last >year because I didn't notice I had the wrong tube on the pulse port ( there >were other reasons but that was the dumb one that ticked me off the most) I >would run fine but slow down and cough on full throttle. Smooth out a bit >if throttle reduced but still coughed a bit. Another problem I had was a >ground wire in the ignition coil. It failed and the engine would only run >on one cylinder. Check for a short or perhaps a loose connection on the >coils. Speaking of coils could that be the problem. Once it warms up the >coil changes and no longer gives a proper spark to one cylinder? Could you >borrow a couple induction Tachs. Those little ones that run off a wire >wound around the ignition wire. When the engine misfires there may be a >difference on the 2 tachs to indicate something going wrong. Perhaps your >cht does not work because there is a short some where and that is affecting >the ignition some how. Of course if it runs good with a gravity feed fuel >system then it could be the fuel pump itself being weak or blocked. Is the >vent hole at the lowest part of the pump. There are to many variables but I >hope some of these ideas may help you narrow your problem down. But as I >said at the beginning try some new plugs no matter how good the others >look. Perhaps a carb could be borrowed to try out on your engine. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DataBuilder" <DataBuilder(at)rcsis.com>
Subject: Grand Rapids web address?
Date: Jun 25, 2000
The web address for the Grand Rapids is: http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/enginfosys/index.htm Brian Hale Sacramento, CA Firestar I ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 25, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Rotax 447 troubleshooting quiz
This is gonna' take a while... Pull the exhaust manifold off and look at the side of your pistons and your rings. Look for a partial seizure, or any indication that the engine has gotten too hot and monetarily damaged the piston or rings. If the piston and rings are entirely normal, verify that you have the proper propeller for that engine. An engine that is over propped will act exactly as you describe. Get your CHT gauge fixed. If the engine is overpropped, that will help you figure it out. Here are the EGT and CHT trends to indicate an overpropped or underpropped engine: If the engine is underpropped (insufficient load) it will typically show a low CHT at most any RPM, and a high EGT at higher RPM's regardless of how you jet it, and it will tend to over rev. If the engine is overpropped (excessive load) the CHT will read normally assuming correct jet size until you get up around cruise power, and then it will probably start to read a little high, even if the jet size is correct. If the jets are the least bit too small, it should read abnormally high from cruise on up, but may still pull the load, until it starts to stick the rings. At that point, all bets are off. (Get out your wallet) The EGT will read a little bit low, even if jetting is normal. Sometimes the engine will pull an excessive prop load for a bit, and then fall off it's ability to pull the load, and lose a couple thousand RPM. This is due to a 2-cycle engine being very heat critical. A 2-cycle that is at a normal or slightly cool temperature will pull more horsepower than one that is hotter. If the engine is pulling the load successfully and then heat soaks itself to a higher temperature, it may lose it's ability to pull that load and will fall off the pipe and drop down to where everything balances out. If you are in flight and the engine starts to slow down, immediately check your EGT gauge: if the load is excessive, the EGT gauge should be falling, probably stabilize around 800-950 degrees. CHT will be constant for a bit, and then fall also as RPM's stabilize at the lower figure. (Assuming normal jetting, and no piston/ring damage) My Rotax 532 with a 3-blade prop would not sustain low cruise power. It would sustain high cruise power, but if the throttle setting was for RPM's around 52-5400, it would gradually start to slow down, cool and finally stabilize around 4500 RPM. Lowering the nose, unloading the prop, and advancing the throttle to get the tach back up to 5800 would get the numbers right, and it was happy. Mine was not overheating, it's just that a three blade prop loads up the torque curve faster than a 2 blade prop does, and a 532 has a weaker midrange than a 582. My solution: swap the 3-blade 64" prop for a 2-blade 66" prop. Perfect. If the 532 is happy, then I'm happy. You might ask somebody else that is using a 447 what size/pitch the prop should be, and make sure yours is no bigger, and that you have the same gearbox ratio they do. (that makes a LOT of difference) I never had a 447, so can't help you there. Hope this is some help. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >Hi gang, > >So I've had my FS II now for a few months with but one flight. I want to >tell you of my Rotax 477 problem and troubleshooting to see if there is some >sage advice or lessons learned that will get me back in the air. It's a long >saga but hopefully that wont put you off reading it. > >1st flight: Good power on climb out with about 6100 on the tach for the >first 100 feet at when I throttled back to 5500. Major excitement as it was >my first Kolb flight. Big grin and climb over the airfield to about 2500 >feet AGL (3900 ASL) 90 deg F. EGT at 1050 and ...Damn the CHT stopped >working...was about 300 F at take off. > >While cruising at 5000 RPM looking around and loving life...the RPM dropped >to 4000RPM and the EGT dropped to 950 F. It sounded smooth enough but like >it just leaned out or had a fuel obstruction. Just as I decided to throttle >back and glide home (still right over the field) it reved back to 5000 and >sounded good. Boy those kind of things keep your butt a little firm! I >decided against the stall series I was planning (first flight test program). >Then the RPM dropped again. This time I tried the choke to see if a little >more fuel was needed. no change! I throttled back to 3500 (which took a lot >of lever movement) then everything sounded smooth again. I throttled up to >4500 RPM and it was okay for a few minutes. then dropped RPM and EGT again. >OKAY no more trouble shooting in the air! I pulled back to 3000 rpm and >brought her in. > >Now as I say this was my first flight in her. I had changed the fuel, >checked the filters and pulled the bowl and changed the plugs before that >flight. > >1st thoughts: So I thought maybe some sludgy remnants from the down time >before I bought her. I changed all the fuel lines, bulb and filters pulled >the float bowl for inspection...no water or bugs. I pulled the jets and >needles and made sure they were clean. On the advice of a local flyer I >changed the pulse line to a clear one to allow visual inspection. I also >put on a new fuel pump (square one) as cheap insurance. > >Engine run up time: I stapped her down and fired her up. this time 3300 RPM >was all I could pull on the ground. ran smooth and nice right up till 3300 >then more throttle just changed the tone but not the RPM. (with some loss in >EGT...CHT still in-op.) > >thoughts: maybe clear fuel line for the pulse pump was loosing to much >pulse. Maybe the bulb is too restricted. (maybe the gap on the plugs is too >big). As a fan of overkill when it comes to flying I opted to put on the >bigger round pump and provide a bulb bypass route. I also got some of the >Pulse line from CPS and kept it short. I pulled the carb apart again >looking for oddities but it looked good. The float valve would stop the >flow of fuel from the bulb pressure, open jets, no dirt. >I re-gapped the plugs to 0.018" (they were close). > >Engine run up again: same problems. Damn no flying today either. So I did >some power on tests. I tried moving the needle...nope. I tried adding fuel >pressure by squezzing the bulb and by blowing in the tank vent...nope. >tried the mixture with the choke again...nope. I tried a little squirt from >the primer...NOPE!. The one thing that did work was to hang a little >bottle of fuel above the carb and gravity feed to by-pass all the fuel >system. That let me rev right on up. > >I change the CHT sensor since the old one looked rough...it still didn't >work though. > >Current thoughts: Maybe I'm overpowering the float valve at the higher >RPMs. I'm about to order a carb rebuild kit which will allow me to change >the float needle valve...Lets just say I'm not too confident after all the >failed attempts. > >Big ticket solutions: I could buy a new carb all together but I want to now >what the problem really is. If I buy a new carb I might go for an >alt-compensating one...The catalogs say for the 503 but a local guy has one >on his 477 any thoughts? > >Well thats enough for now I'm looking for any advice. > >Thanks in advance, >-Peter- > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 25, 2000
Subject: glider pilots
Ralph, you had me buffaloed...I Thought you spent time gliding...I just thought I would add the other thing that I do with my kolb that many others may not do...that is to land that light massless plane hotter than I cruise it to punch through any ground turbulence and provide the best chance of my control of the plane instead of mother nature having control due to shear, eddy's or whatever that beautiful lady's whim throws at you when you are the most vulnerable ...ie when you are near the ground and therefore in a smitable (sic) condition. GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: Re: banking stalls/cross-control
In a message dated 6/24/00 2:21:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Tophera(at)centurytel.net writes: << Even if your flying coordinated the wing on the outside of a turn is going a greater distance then the wing on the inside, and is at a lower angle of attack, and the inboard wing will stall first if you get to stall aoa. flying uncoordinated will make this much worse so the yaw string or other slip indicator is a great way to help prevent the inboard wing from stalling, but you can still do it. Topher >> Thank's Topher...the key word was "minimized". ....GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: FireFly Gliding Turns
Bill Beam et al, While continuing the glide testing of my FireFly this PM I found that dropping the nose to get my IAS up to turning speed, ~ 50 mph, then executing a 180 degree turn I lost about 300' of altitude. You can go a long ways just gliding straight ahead but you must allow for a big loss of altitude for any turns to be made. All flight testing is done at 1,500 to 2,000 feet while making sure my sweaty little hand can reach that chute handle if things get too hairy. Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FireFly, 447, IVO, full canopy, big wheels. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 24, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: EIS sold?
Fank, Did you find a buyer for the EIS yet? John Jung ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: Re: blimp & barn fire
In a message dated 6/24/00 10:00:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net writes: << On Wednesday, I noticed the Good Year Blimp in the area so I jumped in the plane and chased him around for a while. On Friday night I was taking a couple friends for a ride and noticed some smoke. Checked it out and it was a big barn fire. I've gotten in the habit of taking my camera along. You never know what you might see. I posted a few pictures of the blimp and the fire if any of you care to check them out. This is a doorway page to my wife's web site. Just click on the links at the bottom of the page and take a look at Lancaster County PA. http://www.hydrosoft.net/tswartz/ Terry >> Terry ...what Beautiful pictures you got....bet you didn't fly through that puff of smoke! Be careful with MY blimp though...that baby docks no more than 3 miles away from me here at Akron Ohio! GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:Forward stick pressure
In a message dated 6/25/00 8:34:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rsettle(at)flash.net writes: << I have a question though, When flying flat and level @ 60 indicated, should my "Original Firestar" force me to apply forward stick pressure. Nothing extreme but, just not used to having to do that. Thanks. Randy >> Well, Randy I see you must be a pretty light puppy!!...I had to put a trim tab on my elevator to add more up as my problem was that it was necessary for me to add back pressure all the time .....but that is after I gained weight...I feel like a whale at 290 lbs, but I actually weigh 212 lbs..much more than 190 that I originally trimmed the plane for. I wanted to make sure that I could still land that baby if my elevator quit working for some reason, ie., I could control it with throttle alone!...I added the trim tab and now can go up or down depending on the throttle. You can also adjust your ailerons to change the effective CG or moment about the CG more precisely. I learned that one after the trim tab was already installed. GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:Forward stick pressure
In a message dated 6/25/00 8:34:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rsettle(at)flash.net writes: << I have a question though, When flying flat and level @ 60 indicated, should my "Original Firestar" force me to apply forward stick pressure. Nothing extreme but, just not used to having to do that. Thanks. Randy ps. I have set up a picture page e on the website below. You just click on the Kolb Aircraft banner at the bottom of the first page. Thanks again. -- Randy & Val Settle Original Firestar 377 The Lazair News Letter http://www.flash.net/~rsettle/ >> Yep! ...I see your problem on the web page....just as I said in the previous message, Randy you have a trim tab on your elevator and the plane was set up for a heavier fella. 1. remove or straighten your trim tab 2. Tell Mike he can't wear his hat when flying a Firestar.... 3. you are too smiley puny and light to have a trim tab...:-) 4 You have the best web page I have ever seen!! 5. You have a VERY NICE KOLB! GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: Re: Photos online
<< I wish all you guys that take pictures and have a way to put them on the net would put more pictures on and tell us where to view them. >> There's a few of our flying site and Kolbs (plus some other stuff) at : http://members.aol.com/ulflyer This is the beginnings of a web site and you'll just have to click on the .jpg file to see the photos. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net>
Subject: Engine Overhal?
Date: Jun 26, 2000
I would like your collective thoughts. I now have 309 hours on my trusty 503DCDI. Accordingly, I should do a general overhaul of the engine. However, my compression is still 119lbs in both cylinders, very little carbon buildup, rings are free. It runs between 1000 and 1050 degrees EGT and about 280 CHT. I typically cruise at 5500 RPM. I use Pennzoil Outboard Supreme and the plane is flown almost daily. When viewing the cylinders through the exhaust ports, everything looks real good. Whatever the reason, it just doesn't buildup many deposits. Consensus? Dave Rains El Paso ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Price check on an EIS
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Hi folks, I need some opinions on the price a friend is asking for an EIS unit that I am considering buying. He is asking $300. It is a model-2000-Altimeter-Ext CJ"what does Ext CJ mean?", SW version 1.2. It is brand new, never installed, it was for a Buckeye 582 Dream machine. It is mounted in a Buckeye EIS pod, complete with power button, warning light, duel mag test momentary push buttons, and on-off ignition switch for the engine. It has the wiring harness for the Buckeye attached and a three prong connector that is labled Fuel level. It appears that there are several optional connections that are taped-backed at the engine end of the harness. There are no probes with it, and I may have to extend the harness to reach the engine in my Mark-3. I have not yet decided between the 582, or the 690L for my plane, but I am pretty sure the EIS could be rewired for the 690L. Could you guys tell me if you think it is worth $300, or would I be further ahead to buy exactly what I need from the start. Thanks, Denny ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Re: Evening Flight
Date: Jun 26, 2000
For Duane---your getting close to Kolb Country in Lower Alabama when you go into Quincy---come up and see us--If you need coordinates E-mail---Waldan Field 8 miles East of Dothan--Grass 1260ft---all Kolbers flying in area welcome when passing through---our meetings in summer 2nd Sunday at 2PM --planes fly in from Panama City Beach--Sandy Creek East of Panama City-slightly North of Tyndall AFB--and Enterprise, Al--a few from Georgia.We have every make model series of Kolb's from clipped wing firestars to Mark3's and a Fergy 2.--Also quite a few challengers single and 2 place.Even the 2nd one Homer ever made is still flying in the Enterprise area--bottom line is we know kolbs and for years the old kolb referred to us as the Southeast Kolb demo flight team. We fly all the time--even let Hauck fly with us once in awhile! We will treat you right! Lindy LA-Lower Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: covering supplies ...
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Hi Tim and Gang, The FS I and II use 40 yards of material. I have the complete list of what is needed but it would take to long to type and bore folks. Please contact Jim and Dondi Miller (1-877-877-3334) at Aircraft Tech Support if you are planning on using the Poly Fiber system. They are great folks who will go out of their way to help you and keep you happy. They are also the recommended source for the covering kits for new Kolbs. You will not be disappointed with their service if you use them. Later, John Cooley Building FS II #1162 > here be a question for you builders. i'm gonna recover and paint my > '84 Firestar. anyone know how much material ( sq.yards ) i'll need to buy and > how much paint, etc. i'll need to do this? ................... tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BILLBEAM(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: Re: John Hauck Departure
God speed John. Hope those keys don't put you over gross weight. Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Engine Overhal?
If it was mine, I would check the end gap on the rings and replace them if necessary, and I would replace the small end rod bearings and wrist pins, clips, gaskets , probably the crank end seals, and then just keep running it. But then I'm flying with an old 532, so that tells you where I'm coming from... Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >I would like your collective thoughts. I now have 309 hours on my trusty >503DCDI. Accordingly, I should do a general overhaul of the engine. >However, my compression is still 119lbs in both cylinders, very little >carbon buildup, rings are free. It runs between 1000 and 1050 degrees EGT >and about 280 CHT. I typically cruise at 5500 RPM. I use Pennzoil Outboard >Supreme and the plane is flown almost daily. When viewing the cylinders >through the exhaust ports, everything looks real good. Whatever the reason, >it just doesn't buildup many deposits. Consensus? >Dave Rains >El Paso ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "martin P" <tonibec(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Coolant overflow
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Would someone please tell me where they are mounting their coolant overflow bottle on a Mk 111 with a 582? Martin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: becoming a glider
George, Being you are an 'ol glider pilot, I recommend that you and others do some dead stick routines as much as you can. When on final approach, shut it down and land. After awhile it becomes fun. I occasionally hang out with the glider pilots and I once got out 2 miles at 2700 feet and shut the engine down and glided back. It was a good experience and the landings seemed easier than with power. The Kolb flies well without the prop spinning, try it you'll like it. It would be fun to shut it down and do some soaring, but I don't like the idea of having to make an off-field landing if it doesn't start, so I'll do it at 3500 rpm. Throttle back the engine to idle and hold there for few seconds before shutting down. Summertime is the only time to do it, otherwise it would be hard on the engine and could crack a cylinder or bearing with thermal shock. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar > > Ralph, you had me buffaloed...I Thought you spent time gliding...I > just > thought I would add the other thing that I do with my kolb that > many others > may not do...that is to land that light massless plane hotter than I > cruise > it to punch through any ground turbulence and provide the best > chance of my > control of the plane instead of mother nature having control due to > shear, > eddy's or whatever that beautiful lady's whim throws at you when you > are the > most vulnerable ...ie when you are near the ground and therefore in > a > smitable (sic) condition. > GeoR38 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "vincenicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net>
Subject: Re: banking stalls/cross-control
Date: Jun 26, 2000
A recent message said: > if the plane is flying coordinated then each wing is flying the > >same speed and your chances of stalling right or left are minimal > and another said > Even if your flying coordinated the wing on the outside of a turn is going a > greater distance then the wing on the inside, and is at a lower angle of > attack, and the inboard wing will stall first if you get to stall aoa My Firestar II stalls in stratight and level flight without dropping a wing if the controls are coordinated. If it has a little rudder but no aileron input, then the expected wing drops. The more rudder, the faster the wing drops. It will enter a spin if the rudder is held uncoordinated. However, if it is in a slip, that is the rudder and the aileron are set in opposite directions, it does not drop a wing. Even more interesting is its behavior when stalled in a bank of 30 to 60 degrees. If the controls are coordinated according to the ball, it will drop the high wing and tend to roll over the top. It is a rather gentle roll so it is easy to stop. It will do this when banked for turns in either direction and at low to moderate power. It has not been done at high power. The behavior in a slip and in turns is a little unexpected. I have done these maneauvers many time over the last several years. The only unusual aspect of my airplane is the dihedral angle of 3 degrees (wing tips each raised 10 inches relative to center). Would be interested in others experience and any explanations of the behavior. Vince ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: glider pilots
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Yeah, hang-glider pilots fly around at 25-35 mph, but will fly the approach at 40. They call it "gettting low enough to crash without dying" -----Original Message----- From: GeoR38(at)aol.com <GeoR38(at)aol.com> Date: Sunday, June 25, 2000 11:57 PM Subject: Kolb-List: glider pilots > >Ralph, you had me buffaloed...I Thought you spent time gliding...I just >thought I would add the other thing that I do with my kolb that many others >may not do...that is to land that light massless plane hotter than I cruise >it to punch through any ground turbulence and provide the best chance of my >control of the plane instead of mother nature having control due to shear, >eddy's or whatever that beautiful lady's whim throws at you when you are the >most vulnerable ...ie when you are near the ground and therefore in a >smitable (sic) condition. >GeoR38 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: Re: becoming a glider
In a message dated 6/26/00 6:22:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ul15rhb(at)juno.com writes: << with the glider pilots and I once got out 2 miles at 2700 feet and shut the engine down and glided back. It was a good experience and the landings seemed easier than with power. The Kolb flies well without the prop spinning, try it you'll like it. It would be fun to shut it down and do some soaring, but I don't like the idea of having to make an off-field landing if it doesn't start, so I'll do it at 3500 rpm. Throttle back the engine to idle and hold there for few seconds before shutting down. Summertime is the only time to do it, otherwise it would be hard on the engine and could crack a cylinder or bearing with thermal shock. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar Ralph...I would do what you say in a JIF...if I had...either a non boxed in field, or spoilers.....I'll be dad blamed if I can feel comfortable with side slippin my Firestar puppy to assure a quick loss of altitude when I know I've made the field (which is guarded by pretty high power lines on one end and high trees at the other! I do it all the time, but compared to the spoilers on a glider the Firestar seems almost to fly as well sideways as straight ahead...It is comforting to have that speed or altitude when approaching the power lines...but ya gotta be able to dump it fast once you've made them. Maybe this is just an excuse for me to hang on to to explain why I have never actually KILLED a perfect running Rotax, but now I'm actually believing it! GeoR38 > > Ralph, you had me buffaloed...I Thought you spent time gliding...I > just > thought I would add the other thing that I do with my kolb that > many others > may not do...that is to land that light massless plane hotter than I > cruise > it to punch through any ground turbulence and provide the best > chance of my > control of the plane instead of mother nature having control due to > shear, > eddy's or whatever that beautiful lady's whim throws at you when you > are the > most vulnerable ...ie when you are near the ground and therefore in > a > smitable (sic) condition. > GeoR38 > > >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Overhal?
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Dave, At 309 hours you haven't even gotten the 503 broke in yet. If you are not having any other problems just keep on flying. You will probably have even less problems in the next 300 hours. You may even do more damage taking it apart and putting it back together. If the compression gets to low or the rings stick it will be harder to crank. That will be your sign to go into it. It is all the external systems you have to keep your eyes on. Like carb sockets, cables, nuts bolts,springs, and the like. IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT. Hey but don't let me talk you into anything. It's your butt up there. Just my opinion. That's all the thoughts I could collect. Firehawk > >I would like your collective thoughts. Dave Rains >El Paso > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: Re: Engine Overhal?
Dave, is it oil injected? What fuel do you use? G. Aman FS2 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: Re: banking stalls/cross-control
In a message dated 6/26/00 9:48:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, vincenicely(at)chartertn.net writes: << Even more interesting is its behavior when stalled in a bank of 30 to 60 degrees. If the controls are coordinated according to the ball, it will drop the high wing and tend to roll over the top. It is a rather gentle roll so it is easy to stop. It will do this when banked for turns in either direction and at low to moderate power. It has not been done at high power. The behavior in a slip and in turns is a little unexpected. I have done these maneauvers many time over the last several years. The only unusual aspect of my airplane is the dihedral angle of 3 degrees (wing tips each raised 10 inches relative to center). Would be interested in others experience and any explanations of the behavior. Vince >> Very nice report, Vince, ....I have never spun my Firestar intentionally but did have that one "scare at low altitude" while taking pictures. I agree that your plane goes completely against the theory that the outside wing is flying faster and therefore more protected from stall than the other inside tip if it wants to "go over the top" when stalled at 30 to 60 degree bank angle!! All I can say is Hey...wha hoppin??...It is the only redneck I can think of right now. I also put some Dihedral in my wings when I assembled the puppy, but not quite as much as you ....I think I have about 6 inches on either tip above the horizontal line. After all those models I built as a kid, I just couldn't tear my beliefs apart and follow the plans so completely...I think I do understand now that it probably was not as necessary for stability as I thought it was at the build time due to the angle of incidence of the horizontal stab that Homer built into the firestar.There's no question about it, the design is a stable one with the long chord between the cg and horizontal stab, the thick camber in the wing and the angles on the flying surfaces, After all, it was supposed to be a 63 mph airplane, with good authority over mother nature at such slow speeds...hence huge ailerons, and big tail. ...sorry about the rambling.... GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2000
Subject: Re: glider pilots
In a message dated 6/26/00 9:51:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time, duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net writes: << Yeah, hang-glider pilots fly around at 25-35 mph, but will fly the approach at 40. They call it "gettting low enough to crash without dying" LOL....Gawd! I wish I had said that!!.......you're a funny man Duncan!,,,and I believe you!! -----Original Message----- From: GeoR38(at)aol.com <GeoR38(at)aol.com> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Date: Sunday, June 25, 2000 11:57 PM Subject: Kolb-List: glider pilots > >Ralph, you had me buffaloed...I Thought you spent time gliding...I just >thought I would add the other thing that I do with my kolb that many others >may not do...that is to land that light massless plane hotter than I cruise >it to punch through any ground turbulence and provide the best chance of my >control of the plane instead of mother nature having control due to shear, >eddy's or whatever that beautiful lady's whim throws at you when you are the >most vulnerable ...ie when you are near the ground and therefore in a >smitable (sic) condition. >GeoR38 > > Gawd ...I wish I had said that!!.. ============================== >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2000
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: blimp & barn fire
You got some beautiful pictures. Mine me asking what your using for a camera and how you putting them on the web. jerryb > >In a message dated 6/24/00 10:00:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net writes: > ><< On Wednesday, I noticed the Good > Year Blimp in the area so I jumped in the plane and chased him around for a > while. On Friday night I was taking a couple friends for a ride and noticed > some smoke. Checked it out and it was a big barn fire. I've gotten in the > habit of taking my camera along. You never know what you might see. I > posted a few pictures of the blimp and the fire if any of you care to check > them out. This is a doorway page to my wife's web site. Just click on the > links at the bottom of the page and take a look at Lancaster County PA. > > http://www.hydrosoft.net/tswartz/ > > Terry >> >Terry ...what Beautiful pictures you got....bet you didn't fly through that >puff of smoke! Be careful with MY blimp though...that baby docks no more >than 3 miles away from me here at Akron Ohio! GeoR38 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2000
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Rotax troubleshooting quiz
It's usually those simple things that get you. One you said you changed the pulse line, did you replace it with thick walled tubing. The thin walled stuff used for fuel line gives too much thus the pulses end up weak to the fuel pump. Weak pulses, weak fuel flow. Try raising the tail (tie it off well so it can't creep) does it run well in that position on the ground. You probably will have difficulty achieving full power with the tail elevated while holding it in a spot. Last is the squeeze bulb installed in the correct direction - is the check value sticking - do you have a bypass hose around the squeeze bulb. A stuck check valve and they do stick will bring you down quicker than rabbit going down a hole. Is fuel filter installed in the proper flow direction - tank flow--> to engine. Did you assemble the carb correctly - many newies including yours truly put the needle, clip, and that plastic piece in wrong at least once. They run that way but usually don't run well at full throttle. Make sure when adjusting the carb settings your turning the correct screws, many people want to adjust the wrong screws for mixture and idle. Notice any change of EGT on either cylinder when it starts running bad, they both go up, both go down, or one cylinder change from the other. What are your EGT temps running say at 3000 RPM? Did you run it at all before you make all these changes? jerryb > >If it runs ok in the three point stance on the ground, but gives you trouble >in the level flight attitude, maybe you have a float level problem. >Denny Rowe >-----Original Message----- >From: Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >Date: Sunday, June 25, 2000 10:54 PM >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax troubleshooting quiz > > >> >> >>> >>> >>>1st thoughts: So I thought maybe some sludgy remnants from the down time >>>before I bought her. I changed all the fuel lines, bulb and filters >pulled >>>the float bowl for inspection...no water or bugs. I pulled the jets and >>>needles and made sure they were clean. On the advice of a local flyer I >>>changed the pulse line to a clear one to allow visual inspection. I also >>>put on a new fuel pump (square one) as cheap insurance. >> >> >> first put another new set of plugs in. That is my first rule of trouble >>shooting a 2 cycle no matter how new the plugs are. Next I would put a >>solid black fuel line on the pulse port. My Twinstar was grounded all last >>year because I didn't notice I had the wrong tube on the pulse port ( there >>were other reasons but that was the dumb one that ticked me off the most) I >>would run fine but slow down and cough on full throttle. Smooth out a bit >>if throttle reduced but still coughed a bit. Another problem I had was a >>ground wire in the ignition coil. It failed and the engine would only run >>on one cylinder. Check for a short or perhaps a loose connection on the >>coils. Speaking of coils could that be the problem. Once it warms up the >>coil changes and no longer gives a proper spark to one cylinder? Could you >>borrow a couple induction Tachs. Those little ones that run off a wire >>wound around the ignition wire. When the engine misfires there may be a >>difference on the 2 tachs to indicate something going wrong. Perhaps your >>cht does not work because there is a short some where and that is affecting >>the ignition some how. Of course if it runs good with a gravity feed fuel >>system then it could be the fuel pump itself being weak or blocked. Is the >>vent hole at the lowest part of the pump. There are to many variables but I >>hope some of these ideas may help you narrow your problem down. But as I >>said at the beginning try some new plugs no matter how good the others >>look. Perhaps a carb could be borrowed to try out on your engine. >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N51SK(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 27, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Dual Fuel Tanks
Richard S, You can buy that mod directly from Kolb (I think it's still available although I'm not sure about the single place planes) I did for my Mk2. The tanks drain simultaneously to a tee then to the sqeeze bulb and back up to the fuel pump on the engine. It was an option on the Mk2 and probably standard fare on the Mk3s. Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Overhal?
Date: Jun 27, 2000
No, it's not injected. However I was considering putting a oil injection system on it. I use regular gas, I found it doesn't carbon up the plugs as fast as premium. Go figure. Anyway, I stay away from alcohol added fuel. Usually it's Chevron. Dave. -----Original Message----- From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com <ZepRep251(at)aol.com> Date: Monday, June 26, 2000 8:44 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Overhal? > >Dave, is it oil injected? What fuel do you use? G. Aman FS2 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TCowan1917(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 27, 2000
Subject: Re: no high rpms
Subj: duesouth. sent you an email but would like to respond on line. Had a muffler re-done with the ceramic stuff. Had rattles in it which were bee bees from the buffing they give it. could not get all out. when we did run-up, the bee bees actually got into the lower chamber of the muffler and blocked SIXTY percent of the holes. It would run but when it got to five grand, it cut back. after awhile, it would not to go over thirty-five. gotta cut the little buggers out. If we were not running up a rebuild, it would have been disasterous out there with the coyote. If your muffler has these little goodies in them - CUT THEM OUT. It may not happen right away I guarantee you there could be trouble latter. Also had a muffler that sat around for a coupld of years get clogged up with those little mud dobbers nests. takes a long time to accumulate into an exhaust clog but it does happen. Might actually have a nest of some sort inside the muffler. That is where my money is, the muffler did it! Ted Cowan p.s. have a couple of friends say mine has been that way for years and no proble. "yet" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Flight Test Schedule
Date: Jun 27, 2000
Hi Dennis; Your local EAA chapter Is a good place to get the information you seek. The Technical Counselors and Flight Advisors are an excellent source of information for test proceedures and test plans, and assistance in checking your airplane for structural integrity. Complying with these programs will also get you better insurance rates from participating companies and in some cases coverage for the first 10 hours which is where they have determined most airplane damage occurs in the experimental world. Good Luck and Safe Flying!! JMO John -----Original Message----- From: Dennis & Diane Kirby [mailto:kirbyd(at)flash.net] Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 7:18 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Flight Test Schedule Dear Kolb Listeners - It's been exciting reading about the First Flights of our Kolbs, as folks share their experiences with us as their airplanes get finished. We've already had 3 or 4 on this list finish their Kolbs just since the beginning of the year. Way to go, guys! As my Mark-III nears completion, I'm thinking more and more about the 40-hour flight test period I'll be needing to fly off for the FAA. I've read the published Advisory Circular that gives flight testing guidelines (AC 90-89a), and it provides good information on what kinds of flight test data we should be collecting during those first 40 hours. Like anyone else, I'd like to make the most effective use of my time while loitering around the local airspace, figuring out how well my new airplane really flies. What the AC does NOT offer is a flight-by-flight description of what to do and how exactly to go about collecting data. So my question to the group is: Does anyone have a detailed list of the flight manuvers and data collection list for your first 40 hours? Here's what I have so far: First Two Flights - Determine Engine Reliability; Determine Flight Control Characteristics. Hours 4-10 - Climbs Airspeed Accuracy Tests. Hours 11-20 - Stall Speed Tests; Best Rate of Climb; Best Angle of Climb; Slow Flight (Minimum Controllable Airspeed). Hours 21-35 - Stability & Control Tests: Static Stability, Dynamic Stability, Lateral-Directional Stability, Spiral Stability, Flutter Tests, Spins ( maybe ), Accelerated Stalls, Max Gross Weight Tests, Weight / CG Range Tests, Service Ceiling Tests, Fuel Consumption Tests. Looking forward to learning some new stuff from you experienced flyers! Dennis Kirby Mk-3, s/n 300, approx 80 percent finished in Cedar Crest, New Mexico P.S. -If you have not yet seen the cover plane on the June issue of EAA's 'Experimenter' magazine, check it out. The new Mark-III Extra factory demonstrator, photographed flying near Lakeland during Sun'n'Fun this year. Do we fly some good-looking airplanes or what?! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Subject: blimp & barn fire
Date: Jun 27, 2000
Jerryb I talked about the camera in a previous post, an Olympus DL 600L. There a better ones available now for the amount of money I paid, but that's the way it works with this kind of technology. I use Microsoft Front Page 2000 for page layout, however these two pages required no layout work as the photos were just inserted on the page and then published to the web site, very simple and easy. Photo editing software is very helpful if you get at all serious about your web page. Color correction, cropping, rotating and saving them as small jpg files and many more things are done with this software. For basic stuff, Microsoft Photo draw which is one of the easiest to use, Photoshop deluxe, and if you get more serious, PhotoShop LE, and for the pro, Photoshop 5.5. These photos were not edited, only the two vertical ones were rotated. You can rotate, adjust contrast, and crop with Front Page 2000 also. Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerryb Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 10:56 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: blimp & barn fire You got some beautiful pictures. Mine me asking what your using for a camera and how you putting them on the web. jerryb ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: banking stalls/cross-control
Date: Jun 27, 2000
However, >if it is in a slip, that is the rudder and the aileron are set in opposite >directions, it does not drop a wing. > >Even more interesting is its behavior when stalled in a bank of 30 to 60 >degrees. If the controls are coordinated according to the ball, it will >drop the high wing and tend to roll over the top. It is a rather gentle >roll so it is easy to stop. It will do this when banked for turns in either >direction and at low to moderate power. It has not been done at high power. A wing with the aileron deflected down has more camber and is at higher effective AOA then a wing with the aileron deflected up, or neutral. In both these cases you are drooping the wing that is at higher aoa. this means that you are holding some aileron through the turn. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2000
From: Alice and Robert Berrie <rberrie(at)snet.net>
Subject: Stall/Spin
Hi Kolbers I usually lurk on the list but had an incident happen the other day that I thought would be of interest. I have been flying my Mark 111 for 83 hrs, was up doing some slow flight and stalls at 2000 ft. over the airport. My stall speeds are as follows, no flaps 40 mph, half flaps 35 mph, full flaps 31 mph. I was flying with full flaps stright and level, had stalled several times , recovered and was at stall speed when the flap handle slipped out of the notch holding it in the full flap position, instantly went to no flaps at 31 mph. The left wing dropped and went into a nose down spin to the left. Took a second for the brain to engage and figure out what had happened, pushed the nose down and right rudder and flew it out of the spin. I was amazed at how fast this happened and feel that if it were to take place close to the ground such as a turn from base to final you could not recover or have time to pull the chute handle. I have reworked the notch that holds the flap handle. This also reafirms the need to keep your speed up, especially when low to the ground or in steep banks. Stuff happens quick. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gerken(at)us.ibm.com
Date: Jun 27, 2000
Subject: overhaul time?
I would like your collective thoughts. I now have 309 hours on my trusty 503DCDI. Accordingly, I should do a general overhaul of the engine. However, my compression is still 119lbs in both cylinders, very little carbon buildup, rings are free. It runs between 1000 and 1050 degrees EGT and about 280 CHT. I typically cruise at 5500 RPM. I use Pennzoil Outboard Supreme and the plane is flown almost daily. When viewing the cylinders through the exhaust ports, everything looks real good. Whatever the reason, it just doesn't buildup many deposits. Consensus? I cannot tell you what to do, but I will warn you that compression is useless in determining how far the cylinders, pistons, bearings have worn, until it is so bad the ring cannot flex enough anymore. I bored a Honda cylinder 0.020" over and re-pistoned it after years of abuse because the piston-to-cylinder clearance way exceeded wear tolerances, and was out of round. The compression was measured before and after and changed very little (about 10 lbs.). If it were mine, I would dismantle, have crank inspected, renew the PTO bearing if using a "B" box, replace all seals, measure the bores to decide if boring needed, if not reboring then check ring end gaps to determine ring life left, if replacing rings and not pistons I would ball-hone for plateau finish, replace pistons if bore diameter wear exceeds limits(boring and ball-honing)and also replace pistons if wrist-pin bore exceeds max allowable or if ring grooves have widened, replace the wrist pins and needle-bearings and clips whether new pistons or not, rebuild the carbs and fuel pump and carefullly reset the timing. Why not plan to do this every 200 hundred hours (after the first 300)? Assuming nothing has worn out , it is not all that costly to do after you've paid for the Rotax tools. Jim Gerken Operational Vibration and Static DASD Performance Dept. 575S, Rochester MN team Office 253-2454, Vibe lab 3-5101 "Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers." - Bernhard Haisch, astrophysicist ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: 72" IVO two blade IVO
Group, I saw an interesting prop on a Mark III a couple of years ago. It was a 72", two blade IVO. In order to make clearance for the prop, the engine had 2" aluminum channel between the motor mounting plate and the shock mounts. Longer bolts were used, so that the channel was really a spacer. Does anyone in the group have any experience with this? I am thinking of changing from a three blade IVO to a two blade on my 503 powered Firestar II. John Jung ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Artdog1512(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 27, 2000
Subject: covering supplies ....
<< Hi Tim and Gang, The FS I and II use 40 yards of material. I have the complete list of what is needed but it would take to long to type and bore folks. >> john, thank you for the info. ............... tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Aeroplace(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 27, 2000
Subject: Good Luck
John: Good Luck John on your adventure. Look forward to your progress reports. I was fortunate enough to sign your tail at Arlington on your last flight to Alaska. Didn't really realize at the time you were making history. Now I know! God Speed. Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2000
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stall/Spin
Wow, that's pretty alarming! Do you know how close to stock the notch that holds the flap handle is? Did it release because of not being fully engaged, from wear, from poor design, from being bumped? -Ben Ransom --- Alice and Robert Berrie wrote: > > > Hi > Kolbers > > > I usually lurk on the list but had an incident happen the other day > that > I thought would be of interest. I have been flying my Mark 111 for > 83 > hrs, was up doing some slow flight and stalls at 2000 ft. over the > airport. My stall speeds are as follows, no flaps 40 mph, half flaps > 35 > mph, full flaps 31 mph. I was flying with full flaps stright and > level, > had stalled several times , recovered and was at stall speed when the > flap handle slipped out of the notch holding it in the full flap > position, instantly went to no flaps at 31 mph. The left wing > dropped > and went into a nose down spin to the left. Took a second for the > brain > to engage and figure out what had happened, pushed the nose down and > right rudder and flew it out of the spin. I was amazed at how fast > this > happened and feel that if it were to take place close to the ground > such > as a turn from base to final you could not recover or have time to > pull > the chute handle. I have reworked the notch that holds the flap > handle. > This also reafirms the need to keep your speed up, especially when > low > to the ground or in steep banks. Stuff happens > quick. > > Bob > > > > > Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2000
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 72" IVO two blade IVO
> >Group, > > I saw an interesting prop on a Mark III a couple of years ago. It was a >72", two blade IVO. In order to make clearance for the prop, the engine had 2" >aluminum channel between the motor mounting plate and the shock mounts. Longer >bolts were used, so that the channel was really a spacer. Does anyone in the >group have any experience with this? I am thinking of changing from a three >blade IVO to a two blade on my 503 powered Firestar II. > >John Jung Ferguson uses them on some their 503s mounted with 2 inch "round" spacers I think to clear the starters on the E gear box-if you want I'll take some pictures today or tommorrow and send them to you. Looks easy to do. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: E S I probes... Thumbs
Date: Jun 27, 2000
This may sound like a dumb question but I am going ahead and ask it anyway. I'd hate to admit this but I am just now getting my FireStar ready for this summer. Long story, boring, who cares anyway. The question is, do the probes for the ESI go under the spark plug ring or over top of it? you would think it would go on top so that the spark plug would seat tight against to the cylinder head. But it is it possible that the difference in space make a difference in the temperature reading? How are you guys running them? Does anybody have a number for the company, or a web site, so I can contact them and get the information? Thanks for the help Gary Souderton,Pa. | ____F i r e S t a r____ ___(+)___ (_) \ / ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2000
From: Randy Settle <rsettle(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: : Kolb-List:Forward stick pressure
> > 4 You have the best web page I have ever seen!! > 5. You have a VERY NICE KOLB! > GeoR38 You guy's are too nice. I can't tell ya what a difference moving the trim tab did for the fly ability of my Firestar! See, flying a Lazair is just so non tech. You can trim the Lazair by just moving your legs. Thanks again for the advice. Also, just wanted to say, I flew my bird home to Settle's Landing yesterday morning @ 7:36am. 210' roll out and 200' take off. Should be able to get the take off much shorter than that I would guess with some practice. Thanks again.. Randy & Val Settle Original Firestar 377 The Lazair News Letter http://www.flash.net/~rsettle/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: E S I probes... Thumbs
Gary, Click on this for Grand Rapids Technologies (EIS): http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/enginfosys/index.htm John Jung Gary Thacker wrote: > > snip.... > > Does anybody have a number for the company, or a > web site, so I can contact them and get the information? > snip.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net>
Subject: aileron adjustment
Date: Jun 27, 2000
Thanks Eugene! While lurking on the list I noticed your suggestion to adjust the ailerons for trim. Tried it today and---it worked!!! There goes my plan for spending a wad for a trim tab. I owe you. Dave Rains FS II El Paso, Texas ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ULflyer86(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 27, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 06/26/00
Hi there, I'm new to this list so I'll go ahead and introduce my self as I expect to be asking an awfull lot of questions from now on. I'm a 14 year old guy from florida who at the time is Co-piloting and taking lessons in a number of different aircraft including: A Butterfly Trike, A Twin Commanchee and soon to be a Super Emeraude. My reason for joining this list is that it is my plan to buy an Ultralight and I need to find one that is affordable and more like an airplane than the trike that I'm flying now..........If any of ya'll have any ideas please e-mail me or the list! Also if you have any advice that you could give please do! Thanks ~Eric Chalet Suzanne Arpt. Central Florida ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 27, 2000
Subject: Re: E S I probes... Thumbs
Gary, have mine against the head and I believe thats how the instructions read. Also believe it is EIS, engine information systems. G. Aman FS2 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax troubleshooting quiz
Date: Jun 27, 2000
Yes, I was going to say try replacing fuel filter. You are not getting enough gas. Also check the take to be sure it is venting properly. The cap on my tank has a vent hole but I seem to remember the first year I had it the hole was closed off by turning the top of the cap. Blow through the hole and see if it is open. Try fresh gas. Scott Olendorf Original Firestar, Rotax 377 Schenectady, NY http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 11:33 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax troubleshooting quiz > > It's usually those simple things that get you. > > One you said you changed the pulse line, did you replace it with thick > walled tubing. The thin walled stuff used for fuel line gives too much > thus the pulses end up weak to the fuel pump. Weak pulses, weak fuel flow. > > Try raising the tail (tie it off well so it can't creep) does it run well > in that position on the ground. You probably will have difficulty > achieving full power with the tail elevated while holding it in a spot. > > Last is the squeeze bulb installed in the correct direction - is the check > value sticking - do you have a bypass hose around the squeeze bulb. A > stuck check valve and they do stick will bring you down quicker than rabbit > going down a hole. > > Is fuel filter installed in the proper flow direction - tank flow--> to > engine. > > Did you assemble the carb correctly - many newies including yours truly put > the needle, clip, and that plastic piece in wrong at least once. They run > that way but usually don't run well at full throttle. > > Make sure when adjusting the carb settings your turning the correct screws, > many people want to adjust the wrong screws for mixture and idle. > > Notice any change of EGT on either cylinder when it starts running bad, > they both go up, both go down, or one cylinder change from the other. > > What are your EGT temps running say at 3000 RPM? > > Did you run it at all before you make all these changes? > > > jerryb > > > > > >If it runs ok in the three point stance on the ground, but gives you trouble > >in the level flight attitude, maybe you have a float level problem. > >Denny Rowe > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> > >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > >Date: Sunday, June 25, 2000 10:54 PM > >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax troubleshooting quiz > > > > > >> > >> > >>> > >>> > >>>1st thoughts: So I thought maybe some sludgy remnants from the down time > >>>before I bought her. I changed all the fuel lines, bulb and filters > >pulled > >>>the float bowl for inspection...no water or bugs. I pulled the jets and > >>>needles and made sure they were clean. On the advice of a local flyer I > >>>changed the pulse line to a clear one to allow visual inspection. I also > >>>put on a new fuel pump (square one) as cheap insurance. > >> > >> > >> first put another new set of plugs in. That is my first rule of trouble > >>shooting a 2 cycle no matter how new the plugs are. Next I would put a > >>solid black fuel line on the pulse port. My Twinstar was grounded all last > >>year because I didn't notice I had the wrong tube on the pulse port there > >>were other reasons but that was the dumb one that ticked me off the most) I > >>would run fine but slow down and cough on full throttle. Smooth out a bit > >>if throttle reduced but still coughed a bit. Another problem I had was a > >>ground wire in the ignition coil. It failed and the engine would only run > >>on one cylinder. Check for a short or perhaps a loose connection on the > >>coils. Speaking of coils could that be the problem. Once it warms up the > >>coil changes and no longer gives a proper spark to one cylinder? Could you > >>borrow a couple induction Tachs. Those little ones that run off a wire > >>wound around the ignition wire. When the engine misfires there may be a > >>difference on the 2 tachs to indicate something going wrong. Perhaps your > >>cht does not work because there is a short some where and that is affecting > >>the ignition some how. Of course if it runs good with a gravity feed fuel > >>system then it could be the fuel pump itself being weak or blocked. Is the > >>vent hole at the lowest part of the pump. There are to many variables but I > >>hope some of these ideas may help you narrow your problem down. But as I > >>said at the beginning try some new plugs no matter how good the others > >>look. Perhaps a carb could be borrowed to try out on your engine. > >> > >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 06/26/00
A Kolb is very airplane-y, I never flew a trike, but I do have a bit of flex wing and weight shift time, and I bet the Kolbs are closer to a very light and agile Super Emeraude. (I wanted to build one of those once, I still have the info kit, it's 30 years old!) Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >Hi there, >I'm new to this list so I'll go ahead and introduce my self as I expect to be >asking an awfull lot of questions from now on. I'm a 14 year old guy from >florida who at the time is Co-piloting and taking lessons in a number of >different aircraft including: A Butterfly Trike, A Twin Commanchee and soon >to be a Super Emeraude. My reason for joining this list is that it is my plan >to buy an Ultralight and I need to find one that is affordable and more like >an airplane than the trike that I'm flying now..........If any of ya'll have >any ideas please e-mail me or the list! Also if you have any advice that you >could give please do! Thanks >~Eric >Chalet Suzanne Arpt. Central Florida ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2000
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 37 Msgs - 06/23/00
Question for you radio types ---- why would that loop make such a difference ?? How can I trim the antenna to get the same effect ?? You may sincerely believe that I'll be buying no antennas, when a few feet of co-ax does at least as good a job, if not better. Good on you, Boyd. Experimenter Lar. lar i am not sure what kink of loop you have, how big or configuration ect. each antenna needs to be checked at its final location and cut to match best swr. on my last coax antenna when i installed it for the first time i had the braid angle to the front and right and it would not work well. i then angled the braid back and to the right and it worked real good. those on the ground said that my transmissions were as clear as they have ever heard me. have been able to talk to planes over 100 miles. i guess what i am trying to say is that for every antenna installation there is going to be a possibility of a "radiation resistance" problem. in which case the answer can be as easy as moving something 8 to 9 inches. radiation resistance is the results of how the radiated signals interact with the surroundings of the antenna. maybe i should be a technical writer that was about as clear as mud. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2000
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 06/22/00
Question on Spark Plug Gap The Rotax book calls for setting the spark plug gap with a .016 wire gauge. The smallest gauge I have been able to find is .020. All of the other Rotax engines call for a .020 gap so thought it might be a misprint. I call New Kolb and they recommend .017 but I can't find a .017 gauge either. What are all you 503 drives using for plug gap and where do you get the correct gauge? put some .020 wire in a drill and turn the drill on and put some sandpaper to it and measure. when it gets down to .017 stop boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2000
From: Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net>
Subject: Re: aileron adjustment
Dave Rains wrote: > > > Thanks Eugene! While lurking on the list I noticed your suggestion to > adjust the ailerons for trim. Tried it today and---it worked!!! There goes > my plan for spending a wad for a trim tab. I owe you. > Dave Rains > FS II > El Paso, Texas > I'm glad I could help. Eugene ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
Date: Jun 28, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 06/22/00
b young wrote: > > > Question on Spark Plug Gap > > The Rotax book calls for setting the spark plug gap with a > .016 wire gauge. > The smallest gauge I have been able to find is .020. All of > the other Rotax > engines call for a .020 gap so thought it might be a > misprint. I call New > Kolb and they recommend .017 but I can't find a .017 gauge > either. > > What are all you 503 drives using for plug gap and where do > you get the > correct gauge? > > put some .020 wire in a drill and turn the drill on and put > some sandpaper to it and measure. when it gets down to > .017 stop > > boyd Aircraft Spruce sells a special wire plug gap gauge made especially for this purpose. It has a 0.014 wire on one end and a 0.018 wire on the other. Gap so the 0.018 wire will NOT go through, and the 0.014 Will go through. gil leiter MAPLEWOOD, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: 503 carb
Date: Jun 28, 2000
When I took my training class from the certified Rotax instructor, I posed this question because someone on the user group discussed this once before. His answer was it did not make any difference. My are pointing down and I am sure there are other facing up. He was very absolute about this point. do not archive John -----Original Message----- From: Dave Leaf [mailto:705460(at)ican.net] Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 3:18 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 503 carb Here is a unusual problem I am hoping someone on the list can help with. I am putting together a new 503 DCDI engine for my firestar. If you look at the engine from the end with the motor mount level with the bench the carbs are leaning down 3 or 5 degrees. The picture of the engine in the manual show the carbs as being parallel with the motor mount. What have I done wrong ?. The rubber carb sockets are installed as far as they can go so there is no gap when you look in through the rubber socket to the cast alum. manifold. They appear to be tight. I even called the distributor of the engine in BC and they told me the carbs should be level with the motor mount. I have had it apart to check this 3 times. Does any body have a recent version of a 503 engine with oil injection intake manifolds that can have look at their carb angle ? Thanks in advance Dave Leaf Port Perry , Ontario, Canada. -----Original Message----- From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> Date: April 19, 2000 6:14 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Tyvek


June 10, 2000 - June 28, 2000

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