Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ce
June 28, 2000 - July 18, 2000
>
>You guys got me interested in your funky fabric.
>Typed in "tyvek" in the Google search engine, and spent some quality time
>reading about the stuff.
>Don't know if it's any good for airplanes or not, but it sounds neat.
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Hathaway <steveh(at)gdi.net> |
| Subject: | Wheel Bearing on a FireStar II |
Dear Kolb List,
I have a FireStar II with fairly large sized tires and brakes. I have
been having problems with the
brakes in that they seem to be grabbing without applying them. After
investigation I discovered the
two bearing that support both sides of the tire were somewhat worn and
sloppy. I replaced the
bearings with the exact size and that helped take some of the play out
and seems to have eliminated
the brakes grabbing problem. There seems to be some play still noticable
and it looks to be due to
the axal diameter and bearing inner race diameter.
Since then I have been doing some taxi practicing at approx. 20 mph on a
grass strip that is not
smooth. I did this for about 3 hours total. After getting the plane back
on pavement, I noticed
the grabbing problem again.
My questions are the following:
1. Is this normal for the bearings to wear due to the stresses of weight
at a rough field?
2. Is there a better design or upgrade that helps this problem?
3. Is it better to have more bearings between the two outer ones? It
seems to be a lot of weight
on just two bearings in such a harsh environment.
4. It seems that the design doesn't allow for any slop without some sort
of rubbing occurring.
Comments are very much appreciated. Thanks.
Signed,
Steve Hathaway (Orlando, Fl)
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi List..
At 118 hours now, my trusty 503 SCSI is starting to blow carbon. (by that I
mean my propp is "sooty" with carbon after I fly) My next step is to take
off the exhaust manifold and check the rings. Can anybody walk me through
the proceedure of decarbon as my manual is very sketchy about it. Maybe you
know of a website I could go to recieve this information.
Thanks
Steve Kroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Steve,
Call CPS and order their catalog. The information that it contains is like
the bible on Rotax engines. It has what you want. 1-800-AIRWOLF
John Jung
N51SK(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi List..
> At 118 hours now, my trusty 503 SCSI is starting to blow carbon. (by that I
> mean my propp is "sooty" with carbon after I fly) My next step is to take
> off the exhaust manifold and check the rings. Can anybody walk me through
> the proceedure of decarbon as my manual is very sketchy about it. Maybe you
> know of a website I could go to recieve this information.
> Thanks
> Steve Kroll
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Regulator Info |
Kolbers,
I have a regulator that originally was with a 503. The only identification
is
the name Tympanium Corporation cast in it with very small letters. It is about
1.5" X 3.75" X 2.5". It has a black anodized aluminum case. It has 15 fins on
the
top 1/2 inch, & the top edge of the fins are bare aluminum color. It has 4 wires
coming out the long side, the 1st is black & the next 3 are all yellow.
If anyone knows who sells or makes it, how it is wired, or its specifications
I
sure would appreciate that info!
I am temporarily mounting a modified Rotax 587 out of a SeaDoo as the 3
cylinder turbocharged Suzuki will take me some time to finish. I've got the BRS
installed, a VW Rabbit radiator mounted & plumbed, and a motorcycle throttle
installed on the joy stick. I need to finish up the electrical & fuel system &
refinish & balance my old 3 blade 60" Precision prop off my UltraStar. The inlayed
aluminum p-tips should make the prop perform like a 68". I can almost smell those
clouds!
PS: I am also looking for resources that provide electronic fuel management and
electronic ignition timing (distributorless) for 3 cylinder, 4 stroke engines.
...Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
mine was from simple use--wear---see previous post on this subject Do not
archive
Lindy
LA--Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Zigaitis, KZ" <KZ.Zigaitis(at)mw.boeing.com> |
Kolbers,
My pride and joy is for sale to make way for a new project. Photos and info
at the following link:
http://www.geocities.com/kz_zigaitis/Z-Star.html
Thanks for looking it over.
KZ Zigaitis
EAA Technical Counselor & Flight Advisor
St. Louis, Missouri
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
Hello gang, I have ordered my gauges, they include, 3
1/8" tach, 3 1/8" cht/egt, 3 1/8" alt. 3" asi. 2 1/4"
compass and a hobbs hour meter. I'am also going to put in a
small thermometer, that spells no room on my fs panel.
1) do I go with smaller gauges that I can not see (2
1/4")
2) do I eliminate some gauges.
3) or do I enlarge my panel downward.
all comments appreciated.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Bearing on a FireStar II |
In a message dated 6/28/00 9:23:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time, steveh(at)gdi.net
writes:
<< Since then I have been doing some taxi practicing at approx. 20 mph on a
grass strip that is not
smooth. I did this for about 3 hours total. After getting the plane back
on pavement, I noticed
the grabbing problem again.
>>
Steve...if the braking action is happening without applying them, are you
100% sure it is not due to a toe in/ toe out adjustment problem.... I've had
that one (I have big tires too) and I would have sworn the brakes that I have
on my plane were the culprit but it was toe in! When I pulled the plane
backwards out of the garage there was a large squealing sound and the plane
was hard to move..... Just a thought
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Regulator Info |
Not sure about the 3 cyl., but it would be worth it to check www.sdsefi.com
I'll be using their complete system on Vamoose; should have it running by
the end of summer. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Regulator Info
>
> Kolbers,
>
> PS: I am also looking for resources that provide electronic fuel
management and
> electronic ignition timing (distributorless) for 3 cylinder, 4 stroke
engines.
>
> ...Richard Swiderski
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: room for gauges |
Gary, what the heck do you want to take up space with a thermometer for?
Ralph
Original FireStar
writes:
>
>
> Hello gang, I have ordered my gauges, they include, 3
> 1/8" tach, 3 1/8" cht/egt, 3 1/8" alt. 3" asi. 2 1/4"
> compass and a hobbs hour meter. I'am also going to put in a
> small thermometer, that spells no room on my fs panel.
>
> 1) do I go with smaller gauges that I can not see (2
> 1/4")
> 2) do I eliminate some gauges.
> 3) or do I enlarge my panel downward.
>
> all comments appreciated.
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: room for gauges |
In a message dated 6/28/00 10:53:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
johndeereantique(at)uswest.net writes:
<< 1) do I go with smaller gauges that I can not see (2
1/4")
2) do I eliminate some gauges.
3) or do I enlarge my panel downward.
all comments appreciated. >>
4)Get an EIS [Large] and do away with everything except the ASI and
Compass.
You'll be glad you did.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Bearing on a FireStar II |
Take one of your old bearings and go to a Kaman Bearing store, or a Bearings
Inc. store, or similar in your area. They'll be able to match it up with
industrial grade bearings. There should also be quite a bit in the
archives. This has come up several times. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Hathaway <steveh(at)gdi.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 6:14 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Wheel Bearing on a FireStar II
>
> Dear Kolb List,
>
> I have a FireStar II with fairly large sized tires and brakes. I have
> been having problems with the
> brakes in that they seem to be grabbing without applying them. After
> investigation I discovered the
> two bearing that support both sides of the tire were somewhat worn and
> sloppy. I replaced the
> bearings with the exact size and that helped take some of the play out
> and seems to have eliminated
> the brakes grabbing problem. There seems to be some play still noticable
> and it looks to be due to
> the axal diameter and bearing inner race diameter.
>
> Since then I have been doing some taxi practicing at approx. 20 mph on a
> grass strip that is not
> smooth. I did this for about 3 hours total. After getting the plane back
> on pavement, I noticed
> the grabbing problem again.
>
> My questions are the following:
>
> 1. Is this normal for the bearings to wear due to the stresses of weight
> at a rough field?
> 2. Is there a better design or upgrade that helps this problem?
> 3. Is it better to have more bearings between the two outer ones? It
> seems to be a lot of weight
> on just two bearings in such a harsh environment.
> 4. It seems that the design doesn't allow for any slop without some sort
> of rubbing occurring.
>
> Comments are very much appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Signed,
>
> Steve Hathaway (Orlando, Fl)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel/Ignition Management Info |
Big Lar,
Thanks for the reply, I checked them out & they do not offer a 3cyl
version. What they do offer is exactly what I need. Richard S
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> Not sure about the 3 cyl., but it would be worth it to check www.sdsefi.com
> I'll be using their complete system on Vamoose; should have it running by
> the end of summer. Big Lar.
>
> >
> > Kolbers,
> >
> > PS: I am also looking for resources that provide electronic fuel
> management and
> > electronic ignition timing (distributorless) for 3 cylinder, 4 stroke
> engines.
> >
> > ...Richard Swiderski
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: room for gauges |
Gary r. voigt wrote:
>
>
> Hello gang, I have ordered my gauges, they include, 3
> 1/8" tach, 3 1/8" cht/egt, 3 1/8" alt. 3" asi. 2 1/4"
> compass and a hobbs hour meter. I'am also going to put in a
> small thermometer, that spells no room on my fs panel.
>
> 1) do I go with smaller gauges that I can not see (2
> 1/4")
> 2) do I eliminate some gauges.
> 3) or do I enlarge my panel downward.
>
> all comments appreciated.
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
Get an EIS.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel/Ignition Management Info |
OK, how about Raven Re-Drives ??
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel/Ignition Management Info
>
> Big Lar,
>
> Thanks for the reply, I checked them out & they do not offer a 3cyl
> version. What they do offer is exactly what I need. Richard S
>
>
> Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> >
> > Not sure about the 3 cyl., but it would be worth it to check
www.sdsefi.com
> > I'll be using their complete system on Vamoose; should have it running
by
> > the end of summer. Big Lar.
> >
> > >
> > > Kolbers,
> > >
> > > PS: I am also looking for resources that provide electronic fuel
> > management and
> > > electronic ignition timing (distributorless) for 3 cylinder, 4 stroke
> > engines.
> > >
> > > ...Richard Swiderski
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billie Futrell" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: room for gauges |
Gary I suggest you extend the panel and go down with it ,you will be glad
you did. John Hawk has the best lay out I have seen. If you cant find a
pictur I can e-mail you one. Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <ggleiter(at)minn.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 4:54 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: room for gauges
>
> Gary r. voigt wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello gang, I have ordered my gauges, they include, 3
> > 1/8" tach, 3 1/8" cht/egt, 3 1/8" alt. 3" asi. 2 1/4"
> > compass and a hobbs hour meter. I'am also going to put in a
> > small thermometer, that spells no room on my fs panel.
> >
> > 1) do I go with smaller gauges that I can not see (2
> > 1/4")
> > 2) do I eliminate some gauges.
> > 3) or do I enlarge my panel downward.
> >
> > all comments appreciated.
> >
> > thanks,
> > Gary r. voigt
>
>
> Get an EIS.
>
> gil leiter
> MAPLEWOOD, MN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alice and Robert Berrie <rberrie(at)snet.net> |
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
>
> Wow, that's pretty alarming! Do you know how close to stock the notch
> that holds the flap handle is? Did it release because of not being
> fully engaged, from wear, from poor design, from being bumped?
> -Ben Ransom
>
> --- Alice and Robert Berrie wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi
> > Kolbers
> >
> >
> > I usually lurk on the list but had an incident happen the other day
> > that
> > I thought would be of interest. I have been flying my Mark 111 for
> > 83
> > hrs, was up doing some slow flight and stalls at 2000 ft. over the
> > airport. My stall speeds are as follows, no flaps 40 mph, half flaps
> > 35
> > mph, full flaps 31 mph. I was flying with full flaps stright and
> > level,
> > had stalled several times , recovered and was at stall speed when the
> > flap handle slipped out of the notch holding it in the full flap
> > position, instantly went to no flaps at 31 mph. The left wing
> > dropped
> > and went into a nose down spin to the left. Took a second for the
> > brain
> > to engage and figure out what had happened, pushed the nose down and
> > right rudder and flew it out of the spin. I was amazed at how fast
> > this
> > happened and feel that if it were to take place close to the ground
> > such
> > as a turn from base to final you could not recover or have time to
> > pull
> > the chute handle. I have reworked the notch that holds the flap
> > handle.
> > This also reafirms the need to keep your speed up, especially when
> > low
> > to the ground or in steep banks. Stuff happens
> > quick.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/
>
Ben
The flap detent was as it came from Kolb, fix was simply to make the
notch deeper
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
Gary, I give all list members 10% off, on the EIS system. Howard is one
of
my customers. :>) http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports/eis.htm
is the place to look. Let me know what you'd like and I'll get the ball
rolling for you.
EVERYONE I know who has the EIS LOVES it. Space saving, easy to read,
backlit, and extremely accurate. You can even get a thermometer probe. :>)
J.D. Stewart
NCF Communications, Inc.
http://www.ncfcomm.com
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/challenger
GET PAID TO SURF THE NET
http://www.alladvantage.com/home.asp?refid=hoz585
> all comments appreciated. >>
> 4)Get an EIS [Large] and do away with everything except the ASI and
> Compass.
> You'll be glad you did.
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS I
> SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Benson" <jimben(at)clear.lakes.com> |
| Subject: | Re: E S I probes... Thumbs |
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Thacker <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com>
>
> The question is, do the probes for the ESI go under the spark plug ring or
> over top of it?
>
> Dear Gary: I asked a very similar question and was told to cut the spark
plug ring off and only use the probe ring. Perhaps others have had that
same experience.
Jim Benson, Mark III 224, 63 hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: E S I probes... Thumbs |
Hey Gang,
I for one have for 2000 hours put the probe ring under the plug seal ring
after installing and removing the new plugs to depress the ring. I always
use anti-seize on the plug threads. This helps in two ways; one to make the
threads in the head last and also to help seal the plug from oil seepage.
I've never been able to tell any difference in the Head Temps, beside there
are too many other things that effect the temps and gauges such as outside
air temerature, and slightly loose connections at the pins.
> > The question is, do the probes for the ESI go under the spark plug ring
>or
> > over top of it?
> >
> > Dear Gary: I asked a very similar question and was told to cut the
>spark
>plug ring off and only use the probe ring. Perhaps others have had that
>same experience.
>
>Jim Benson, Mark III 224, 63 hrs.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
Gary, I have both a regular tach and the tiny tach--I don't look at the
regular tach--I would choose just the tiny tach--very easy to read and very
small. I am not sure I would use a compass--I do not have one now and use
GPS on long flights--compass is expendable. I also have a small digital
clock stuck to the dash--I wouldn't fly with out it now. Dale Seitzer
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary r. voigt
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: room for gauges
Hello gang, I have ordered my gauges, they include, 3
1/8" tach, 3 1/8" cht/egt, 3 1/8" alt. 3" asi. 2 1/4"
compass and a hobbs hour meter. I'am also going to put in a
small thermometer, that spells no room on my fs panel.
1) do I go with smaller gauges that I can not see (2
1/4")
2) do I eliminate some gauges.
3) or do I enlarge my panel downward.
all comments appreciated.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
Randy, I have mounted my single Kuntzleman strobe on the top side of my boom
tube about four feet behind the prop arc. It is held in place by a single SS
hose clamp and the wire to it runs along the top of the tube to the power
unit located in the back of the fuselage. The wire was attached to the tube
by 1" wide fabric tape applied prior to painting. I have never had any
problems with this location it can be seen from almost any angle. I'm sure
the dual strobes are better for visibility but they give you one more thing
to do during folding and they were a lot more $.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FireFly, 447, Ivo, full canopy, big wheels.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Radio Power, SWR?? |
Hi Gang,
I was intrigued by the posts a while back on constructing a poor man's dipole
antenna from coax. One of the posters had great results with his.
So, today I constructed one and checked it with my Mickey Mouse Power/SWR
meter. The meter has a freq range of 144 to 400 MHz so I don't know how
accurate it would be at the freq I used for the test(123.0).
I then checked it with my onboard antenna with the "too small" ground plane,
about 16 x 18 inches. Here are the results:
Dipole at 24 inch lengths-
Power 5.8 watts SWR 4.0
On board antenna-
Power 3.0 watts SWR 1.05
Is it better to tune for max power and let the SWR fall where it may, or
accept the lower power with low SWR??
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
I got mine from Airstar, 1 (800) 247-7827. $47, free shipping.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: room for gauges |
Just make sure you do not spend $59 from Precision Navigation for their
co-pilot electronic compass. Same compass in Wally world on one side of town
$49.93 across town on sale for $25,
Problem is with calibration--after following instructions very carefully on
ground-example--make 2---360 degree slow turns---found compass to be 20
Degrees off when checked against GPS---
Took off -very carefully followed directions-only difference 2 --360 degree
turns in air----still 20 degrees off.
Finally got ahold of their tech support for fix--listen to this---I did it
all wrong --on the ground and in the air--their solution to problem--start
all over again on the ground--use a wooden table or bench--insure compass is
perfectly level--follow the instructions which is basically make 2 ---360
degree slow turns and the compass will correct itself--
Currently installing compass in motorhome--the timer works real weel-have
seen a few mounted in Kolbs at Fly ins the past month and everyone has the
same problem--compass way off.
Sent 3 cans of BBQ black spray paint to Australia today--postage
$32.40---total cost of paint $3.56 a can. Approx. $11.Info
Info for those with stock mufflers-
BBQ Spray Paint--Item # 84410 Bar code 20066 00680,
Premium Rust-oleum-resist heat up to 1200F-Can 15.6 Oz--$3.56 cost in Lowe's
Manuf-Rust-oleum Corp
11 Hawthorn Pkwy
Vernon Hills IL 61061
On web at www.rustoleum.com
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Power, SWR?? |
I'm told that the 24" is a starting point. I started at 25", and starting
trimming a 1/16" at a time from each side, and carefully kept them even.
Very tedious. Got it down to 1.2 SWR, and batteries died in the radio.
Haven't fooled with it since, but I think each side is down to a little over
23". I'm not sure which would be preferable. Boyd ??
Beginner Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WGeorge737(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 5:20 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Radio Power, SWR??
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> I was intrigued by the posts a while back on constructing a poor man's
dipole
> antenna from coax. One of the posters had great results with his.
>
> So, today I constructed one and checked it with my Mickey Mouse Power/SWR
> meter. The meter has a freq range of 144 to 400 MHz so I don't know how
> accurate it would be at the freq I used for the test(123.0).
>
> I then checked it with my onboard antenna with the "too small" ground
plane,
> about 16 x 18 inches. Here are the results:
>
> Dipole at 24 inch lengths-
> Power 5.8 watts SWR 4.0
>
> On board antenna-
> Power 3.0 watts SWR 1.05
>
> Is it better to tune for max power and let the SWR fall where it may, or
> accept the lower power with low SWR??
>
> Bill George
> Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Where's John Hauck? |
Here is the site to follow John's progress:
http://www.tnkolbaircraft.com/wheresjohn.htm
Below is a copy of todays report from that site.
THURSDAY: After having a hot breakfast at Esso Truck Stop, John started out
this day with a light tail wind until it
warmed up and started blowing out of the west. The population is starting to
thin out. The headwinds picked up by
the afternoon, so John is retiring in Vegreville, Alberta for a few hours.
Vegreville is about 40 miles east of
Edmonton.
John has calculated he is about 160 miles from Whitecourt; 303 miles from
Grande Prairie; and 367 from Dawson
Creek which is mile "0" of the Alaska Highway.
He met the local flying club during a meeting and gave a talk with them about
his trip, and they all enjoyed looking at
Miss P'fer after the meeting. The flying club offered John a place to pitch
his sleeping bag for a few hours before he
resumes his flight. John anticipates flying until about midnight. He
indicated he would make it to Whitecourt tonight
and possibly Grande Prairie. West of Edmonton the population will become
sparse, so he will have to carefully
choose how far to try and get.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel bearings |
What's the part number?
>
>Dale,
>
>You can get sealed high speed bearings from Gopher Bearing Co. at 94 and
>280 in Mpls. Never need to lube ...... $10 each, you need 4 of them.
>
>Ralph
>
>>
>> Is there a preferred lubrication for the standard wheel bearings?
>> I was
>> thinking of using wheel bearing grease but maybe that is too thick
>> and will
>> maybe cause dirt and dust to stick to it. I could take them off
>> the
>> wheel --soak in a good parts cleaner and re-lube them--what does
>> everybody
>> else do? Dale Seitzer--original Firestar with funky wheelbarrow
>> tires and
>> no brakes (don't need them).
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
"Ez List" ,
"Glasair List" ,
"Glastar List" ,
"Kitfox Lists" ,
"Kolb List (Matronics)" ,
"Lancair-List (Matronics)" ,
"Rocket List" ,
"RV List" ,
"Zenith List"
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Low cost tool for open barrel pins . . . |
I've been looking at several sources for a low cost tool
to install the open barrel (sheet metal pins) common to
the Whelen strobe kits, and available from Radio Shack
in blister-paked mating pairs.
I've decide on a tool to stock. You can see a preliminary
instruction sheet on its use at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
As soon as we have the OBC-1 in stock for shipment, we'll add
them to the website catalog index and drop a note to the
lists. In the mean time, if the instructions prompt
any questions for which answers are not obvious, let me
know. I'll be pleased to adjust the text and photos as necessary
to maximize understanding of the tool's utility for everyone.
BTW, this tool will also install the open barrel standard
d-sub pins. Been learning to use a new digital camera that
makes it MUCH easier to produce the illustrated instruction
sheets. Let me know what you think.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SWR vs. Power |
>> Is it better to tune for max power and let the SWR fall where it may, or
>> accept the lower power with low SWR??
Always tune for lowest SWR at the center of the range
of frequencies to be used.
There's another instrument designed for antenna optimizing.
You can see an example at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/tools/tools.html#raa-1
and instructions on how it is used at:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/ant_anal.pdf
This device is a combination tunable signal generator,
antenna impedance bridge and frequency counter in a
single package.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: room for gauges |
>
> Gary, I give all list members 10% off, on the EIS system. Howard
is one of
> my customers. :>) http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports/eis.htm
> is the place to look. Let me know what you'd like and I'll get the ball
> rolling for you.
> EVERYONE I know who has the EIS LOVES it. Space saving, easy to
read,
> backlit, and extremely accurate. You can even get a thermometer probe.
:>)
JD, I'm mostly very happy w/ my large size EIS. No way to get this much info
into a small panel. The only disappointment I've got won't occur for most
folks - RPM resolution on my 503 with an Airscrewy single CDI conversion is
60 RPM. But do you have a fix for false alarms? The red light occasionally
starts blinking when erratic temp and rpm readings peg. It begins to happen
after an hour of continuous flight time, and I believe it's because my 2
phase regulator starts to over charge the tiny battery I use.
I'll visit your site tho, maybe I'll finally spring for the OAT probe -
handy for calculating density alt on these soggy days.
David Bruner
Mk II sn 202
Kingston, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SWR vs. Power |
Bob,
Why is it better for the SWR to be at the lowest and center of the range??
> >> Is it better to tune for max power and let the SWR fall where it may,
>or
> >> accept the lower power with low SWR??
>
> Always tune for lowest SWR at the center of the range
> of frequencies to be used.
>
>
Firehawk
Do not Arhive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
Contact Greg at GRT. If he won't fix it for free (seen that done even
out
of warranty), it won't cost much either. Grand Rapids Technologies is a
first-class outfit.
J.D. Stewart
NCF Communications, Inc.
http://www.ncfcomm.com
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/challenger
GET PAID TO SURF THE NET
http://www.alladvantage.com/home.asp?refid=hoz585
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Bruner
> Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 5:47 AM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: room for gauges
>
>
> >
> > Gary, I give all list members 10% off, on the EIS
> system. Howard
> is one of
> > my customers. :>)
> http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports/eis.htm
> > is the place to look. Let me know what you'd like and I'll get the ball
> > rolling for you.
> > EVERYONE I know who has the EIS LOVES it. Space saving, easy to
> read,
> > backlit, and extremely accurate. You can even get a thermometer probe.
> :>)
>
> JD, I'm mostly very happy w/ my large size EIS. No way to get
> this much info
> into a small panel. The only disappointment I've got won't occur for most
> folks - RPM resolution on my 503 with an Airscrewy single CDI
> conversion is
> 60 RPM. But do you have a fix for false alarms? The red light
> occasionally
> starts blinking when erratic temp and rpm readings peg. It
> begins to happen
> after an hour of continuous flight time, and I believe it's because my 2
> phase regulator starts to over charge the tiny battery I use.
>
> I'll visit your site tho, maybe I'll finally spring for the OAT probe -
> handy for calculating density alt on these soggy days.
>
> David Bruner
> Mk II sn 202
> Kingston, NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | mark III/Xtra advice |
I have just been informed that my wing kit ships
today.
Am anxiously awaiting the arrival. Would appreciate
any and all building or preparation tips from you guys
that have already been there(on any project).
I would also like to correspond directly with anyone
that is also building a Mk3/x.
Thanks guys
Ed
Dallas Tx..
Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Radio Power, SWR?? |
In a message dated 6/30/00 4:10:49 AM, larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< I'm told that the 24" is a starting point. I started at 25", and starting
trimming a 1/16" at a time from each side, and carefully kept them even.
Very tedious. Got it down to 1.2 SWR, and batteries died in the radio.
Haven't fooled with it since, but I think each side is down to a little over
23". >>
What was the power relative to the SWR at each length? Could it be that as
your battery was expiring the radio power was too? Just hypothesizing here. I
don't know poop about SWR vs. power out either :-)
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: mark III/Xtra advice |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off-topic...flying story |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
> Now get this...the crop
> dusters NORMAL operating field had a 1 way in or out approach that went
> UNDER the main power feed into the area...that's right boys and girls this
> idiot flys under a 110,000 volt power line everyday of his life!!!!
Gee Jeremy do you like to eat?
Next time you sit down to dinner you should say a special prayer for the
safety of the "idiots" that help the farmers put food on your table!
Calling ag pilots Idiots is not a way to endear yourself to those of us who
know how hard these guys work. You should only wish you could fly as well as
most of these pilots do!!
Geoff Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Off topic ; another story |
Hey Gang and Gangetts,
While we are on the subject of stories. I have one from the Etowah Bend
Fly-in that I wrote after the fact. If any of you on the list would like to
know my account of the fly-in and what we do as the result of a fly-in let
me know "off-list" and I'll send it right on to you as soon as I get back
from flying this weekend. I will give an account of this weekend also. This
is all to let you guys that fear leaving the patch know that it is done on a
regular basis and without incident. It beats driving the Highways. I worry
more about my family on the ground driving from one place to another than I
do about me in the air. You don't see many drunks in the air for long
anyhow.
Thanks and let me know.
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Off-topic...flying story |
The local cropdusters here that fly out of our airport do not carry radios
(they break down too frequently from the dust, apparently), and will use
whatever runway that cuts down their time, regardless of wind direction.
Two actions that spell danger for the rest of us. Lots of time, they're
reaching the end of a 5000' runway at 50'AGL on takeoff. I've had one try
to land right in front of me while I was taking off because it was from the
direction of the field he was spraying. He had a 10mph tailwind also. I
wouldn't have minded if he had a radio and called it in. I could have held,
or he would have known someone was taking off (I use a radio) towards him.
Fortunately, I was a hundred feet above him when he crossed the fence.
I'm sure they're good pilots. My dad did some crop dusting at one time
also. He also took out a power line once, and it came with a hefty bill to
put it back up there. :>( Just around here, everyone keeps a sharp eye out
for spray pilots during this time of year.... :>)
J.D. Stewart
>
> > Now get this...the crop
> > dusters NORMAL operating field had a 1 way in or out approach that went
> > UNDER the main power feed into the area...that's right boys and
> girls this
> > idiot flys under a 110,000 volt power line everyday of his life!!!!
>
> Gee Jeremy do you like to eat?
> Next time you sit down to dinner you should say a special prayer for the
> safety of the "idiots" that help the farmers put food on your table!
> Calling ag pilots Idiots is not a way to endear yourself to those
> of us who
> know how hard these guys work. You should only wish you could fly
> as well as
> most of these pilots do!!
>
> Geoff Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WingManBill2(at)aol.com |
Hey guys/gals, need your input on the 532 rotax, I've seen a few up for sale
lately, one is actually new in the box for $3k Anybody out there with
experience in using this engine I'd like to hear what ya got to say!
Building Mark III
Bill J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Off-topic...flying story |
> Now get this...the crop
> dusters NORMAL operating field had a 1 way in or out approach that went
> UNDER the main power feed into the area...that's right boys and girls this
> idiot flys under a 110,000 volt power line everyday of his life!!!!
Gee Jeremy do you like to eat?
Next time you sit down to dinner you should say a special prayer for the
safety of the "idiots" that help the farmers put food on your table!
Calling ag pilots Idiots is not a way to endear yourself to those of us who
know how hard these guys work. You should only wish you could fly as well as
most of these pilots do!!
Geoff Thistlethwaite
WOW!!! I must apologize for my loose use of the English language. I am
from a age group who does loosely use a few terms with much less "harsh"
intentions then the Webster's definition would lead you to believe. My
intention was a more expression of shock or feeling of amazement at his
boldness then questioning his mental state of mind. I guess the explanation
probably makes me look like a "real idiot" but I didn't want to leave the
impression that my remark was a blatant insult.
Bottom line while I do not think flying under a line like that is a real
"great" idea , you gotta do what you gotta do. And I certainly don't
compare my piloting ability anywhere near these guys level. So Mr.
Thistlethwaite I will say that prayer tonight for their safety and I do hope
that one day I progress to their level of pilotage.
I certainly did not mean to offend anyone with my flagrant expression of
ignorance and I do beg your forgiveness.
Jeremy "foot in mouth" Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
P.S. This will teach me to keep my mouth shut so as to keep my foot out of
it...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)tetric.com> |
To all,
I just re-subscribed recently for a brief time and have been lurking for a
day or two. Many of the same guys are still here plus a bunch of new
people also. It has been exciting reading the progress on John H's trip up
north. Changes have occured with the sale of the company. The new guys
have injected a lot of energy into Kolb development. I was sorry to see
Dennis S. and the people I knew gone, but evidently all is well and good
with the new company. I look forward to meeting them sometime. Anyone
flying up to Oshkosh from central Texas who needs someone to carry their bags?
I have been off the list for a good while. I had decided to try to sell my
MK III and I couldn't bear to continue to read all the Kolb goings on while
trying to psyche myself to the task.
The news is that I did sell my plane - yesterday - to a fellow in eastern
Tennessee. I want to thank all of you who have been my friends.... for
being my friends, and for being so helpful when help was needed. I will
miss my Kolb and reading the mail.
Sincerely,
Cliff Stripling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Off-topic...flying story |
>WOW!!! I must apologize for my loose use of the English language.
>I certainly did not mean to offend anyone with my flagrant expression of
>ignorance and I do beg your forgiveness.
Go and sin nor more.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel bearings |
JerryB
How about a Phone number ---I also need some high speed bearings,unless I
missed something on the list-I am not familiar with the supplier you
mentioned or how to contact them
Reply at your earliest possible convenience.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billie Futrell" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mark III/Xtra advice |
Hi Ed i am building a mark11Xtra. I have just completed the wings and tail
group. I hope to get my cage in a week or so . Keep in touch
--- Original Message -----
From: ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 7:19 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: mark III/Xtra advice
>
> I have just been informed that my wing kit ships
> today.
> Am anxiously awaiting the arrival. Would appreciate
> any and all building or preparation tips from you guys
> that have already been there(on any project).
>
> I would also like to correspond directly with anyone
> that is also building a Mk3/x.
>
> Thanks guys
> Ed
> Dallas Tx..
>
>
> Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off topic ; another story |
You bet, count me in. "Gangettes" huh ?? Love it. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: michael highsmith <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 11:45 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Off topic ; another story
>
> Hey Gang and Gangetts,
>
> While we are on the subject of stories. I have one from the Etowah Bend
> Fly-in that I wrote after the fact. If any of you on the list would like
to
> know my account of the fly-in and what we do as the result of a fly-in let
> me know "off-list" and I'll send it right on to you as soon as I get back
> from flying this weekend. I will give an account of this weekend also.
This
> is all to let you guys that fear leaving the patch know that it is done on
a
> regular basis and without incident. It beats driving the Highways. I worry
> more about my family on the ground driving from one place to another than
I
> do about me in the air. You don't see many drunks in the air for long
> anyhow.
> Thanks and let me know.
> Firehawk
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim T99" <townsend(at)webound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: covering supplies ... |
Man I will Second that .....
They have to be the nicest people in the business.
Tim T99
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: covering supplies ...
>
> Hi Tim and Gang,
> The FS I and II use 40 yards of material. I have the complete list of
> what is needed but it would take to long to type and bore folks. Please
> contact Jim and Dondi Miller (1-877-877-3334) at Aircraft Tech Support if
> you are planning on using the Poly Fiber system. They are great folks who
> will go out of their way to help you and keep you happy. They are also the
> recommended source for the covering kits for new Kolbs. You will not be
> disappointed with their service if you use them.
>
> Later,
> John Cooley
> Building FS II #1162
>
>
> > here be a question for you builders. i'm gonna recover and paint
> my
> > '84 Firestar. anyone know how much material ( sq.yards ) i'll need to
buy
> and
> > how much paint, etc. i'll need to do this? ................... tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/30/00 7:14:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
striplic(at)tetric.com writes:
<< The news is that I did sell my plane - yesterday - to a fellow in eastern
Tennessee. I want to thank all of you who have been my friends.... for
being my friends, and for being so helpful when help was needed. I will
miss my Kolb and reading the mail.
Sincerely,
Cliff Stripling
>>
Cliff! ....you can't leave....you're one ot the GOOD Guys!...We need you here
!!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off-topic...flying story |
----- Original Message -----
> Jeremy "foot in mouth" Casey
> jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
>
> P.S. This will teach me to keep my mouth shut so as to keep my foot out of
> it...
No problem, I've used my shoe laces for dental floss on lots of occasions.
Geoff "size 10 seems to fit well" Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SWR vs. Power |
Where can I find a decent inexpensive SWR/Power meter for aircraft
radios? I have seen some on ebay and elsewhere, but they all seem to be
for CB band 28-30Mhz.
Thanks
--
****************************************************
* Bill Weber * Thunder's just the noise *
* Simi Valley, CA * Lightning does the work *
****************************************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
| Subject: | Re: SWR vs. Power |
Radio Crap has one for $55 (good for our freqs I think) in addition to
the $30 CB box.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SWR vs. Power |
Yah, Radio Shack has them, also Ham Radio Outlet, where I got mine. Good
Folks, and they're on the Web. I was told the 144 mHz units will work fine
at our freqs. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2000 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: SWR vs. Power
>
> Where can I find a decent inexpensive SWR/Power meter for aircraft
> radios? I have seen some on ebay and elsewhere, but they all seem to be
> for CB band 28-30Mhz.
>
> Thanks
> --
> ****************************************************
> * Bill Weber * Thunder's just the noise *
> * Simi Valley, CA * Lightning does the work *
> ****************************************************
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
with regard to the flaps letting go
i was not happy with the detents for the flap handle bit did
not want to do a complete remodel so i took out the
grinder and cut the top part of the handle to a point where
it engages the detent then cut a small "v" in the top of
the detent. when the two parts are engaged the handle has
to be pulled down to get it it out of the detent.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
<<<<<<<>>>>>>
many power meters will add the reflected power to the
forward power thus making it look like there is more power
than there is. when the swr is low a one to one
match then all of the power generated by the radio is
emitted by the antenna. and not reflected back to the radio
and burnt up as extra heat. the extra heat can destroy the
finals in the radio
making an antenna transmit well is 1/2 science and 1/2
art. cutting the elements to the correct length is a
science. installing it to work properly is an art.
some installations are much easier to install than others
but they dont look as good. some that look good are not as
easy to install. a lot depends on what you want.
i took a 48 inch coax dipole, 24 inch for the center
conductor and 24 inch for the braid, and taped it to a 48
inch by 1/4 inch dowel i took it to the airport and showed
it to the operator of a fbo as a demonstration. by
holding it at arms length the swr is 1 to 1 by bringing
it close to other objects i could get it to go into the red
on the meter. the difference is caused by what is called
"radiation resistance." that is where the "art" of antenna
installation comes in to play.
if anyone would like help installing an antenna i would
recommend contacting a ham radio club. (dont ask the first
ham but rather ask some members of the club who is best on
antennas) most hams would love the challenge of working on
an airplane antenna.
boyd amateur extra N7WFM
coments and ????? feel free to ask on or off the list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
>> Is it better to tune for max power and let the SWR fall
where it may, or
>> accept the lower power with low SWR??
Always tune for lowest SWR at the center of the range
of frequencies to be used.
There's another instrument designed for antenna
optimizing.
You can see an example at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/tools/tools.html#raa-1
===============================================
robert you said it very well and that is the instrument i
have been using. it is so easy well it is almost
like cheating.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Why is it better for the SWR to be at the lowest and center
of the range??
in a properly matched antenna the antenna swr curve will be
in the shape of a "V" the bottom of the :"V" is the area
of the best swr( 1 to 1 match) both sides of the "V" will
be increasing swr. by placing the center of the "V" (swr
curve) at the center of the frequency band it will make a
larger portion of the band useable . because the aircraft
band is so broad (the transmit portion 118 to 136
mhz) it is quite difficult to get the entire band below 2
to 1. the 2 meter ham band for example is 144 to 148
mhz and it is much easier to get the swr below 2 to 1 for
a 4 mhz split than the 18 mhz split in the aircraft band.
another thing that i want to try is using some 1/2 inch wide
copper foil tape (commonly used in stain glass work) for
the elements of the antenna. by using the wider elements
the bottom of the swr curve would look more like a "U" than
a "V" and make it easier to get the entire band below 2 to
1 swr. by doing that the "Q" (in simple terms the "Q" is a
measurement of quality in an electronic circuit) of the
signal would go down slightly but the increased band width
would lincrease. in short the quality of the signal would
go down a tiny amount for all frequencies. but more
frequencies would be available to use with a swr that is low
enough that it wont harm the radio.
clear as mud???? again questions are welcome on or off
the list.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
The 532 is a good engine, has some limitations, but the price may compensate.
There is an upgrade on the water pump shaft. You need to upgrade to the
latest version if the previous owner (if any) has not done it.
The engine has less mid range torque than the 582. I have had two
different engines and both behaved similarly. You can expect a flat spot
about 400 RPM wide somewhere between 4800-5500 RPM where the engine will
not maintain a constant RPM, it will settle down just below or just above
that area. I could not get mine to be entirely happy with a 3 blade 64" IVO
Prop, but it works very well with a 66" 2-blade IVO Prop. I strongly
suspect that the 3 blade loads up the torque curve faster in mid range than
a two blade.
I flew Cliff Stripling's MKIII with a 582 and 3-blade IVO yesterday, and it
was much better on acceleration and climb out, and smoother on vibration
with the 3-blade. More mid range torque is handy, but you pays yer money,
and takes yer choice.
I would recommend replacing the 532's point ignition with a CDI ignition
from Airscrew Performance. The only problems I ever had from either of my
532's were ignition related. I have had Airscrew's CDI conversion for about
a year now and it has been flawless.
Now that I have the CDI ignition, I wish I still had the 3-blade, would
like to see if the CDI makes any difference.
You will have to premix fuel/oil. No oil injection pump.
You can run EGT's a tad hotter with the 532 than the 582, that will help
keep the mung from growing behind the rings.
My MKIII weighs 513 pounds empty, and the 532 will give me a solo top end
straight and level of 92.
Last Monday I flew up to New Kolb to see John take off, and burned 4.7 GPH
@ 72 MPH @ 56-5700 RPM up and back.
It is also happy to let me go up and poke around solo at 52 MPH @ 4800 RPM
for a quiet and lazy ride.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hey guys/gals, need your input on the 532 rotax, I've seen a few up for sale
>lately, one is actually new in the box for $3k Anybody out there with
>experience in using this engine I'd like to hear what ya got to say!
>
>Building Mark III
>
>Bill J
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WingManBill2(at)aol.com |
Thanks Richard for the info, choosing an engine is really the hardest part I
think of this whole project! I really think I'm getting away from the two
stroke engine and heading toward the 4 stroke regardless of cost, think i'm
just gonna bite the bullet and get a auto conversion, really lookin hard at
the SuziAir right at the moment! Anybody out there using the SuziAir on a
Kolb Mark III or similar aircraft?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Hudson" <phudson(at)iwvisp.com> |
| Subject: | More on the rotax 477 quiz |
Hi gang,
A short while ago I posted a story of my trouble shooting problems on my
newly aquired 477 on a firestar 2.
Several of you offer lots of good advice..Thanks guys (Richard, Woody,
Jerryb)
Here's some more info...I'm sending to the list cause you never know who's
been there before.
When I last left off, the little engine that couldn't ...couldn't rev up
passed 3500 RPM.
At the time my primary suspect was fuel delivery to the carb...too much
mostly.
I was out tinkering this weekend and here's what I found out.
1) I rebuilt the carb mostly to be sure the float needle was new and no
hidden dirt was there.
run-up...no change.I aslo checked the float level was 1/2 inch without the
floats in.
2) I added a full pressure regulator set at 2,3,4,5 psi none of the setting
had any effect
conclusion: I had good flow, no overpowering the carb (no fuel out the
overflow etc.)
3) I checked the muffler for obstruction (based on good bee story!) no
obstructions were found.
4) I tried it without the air filter. CHANGE! this was the first hint. the
max RPM went up to 4500 (with the throttle lever from about 1/2 to full
throttle). I cleaned the airfilter again with extra care and reinstalled
it. still 4400-4500 RPM . Conclusion...It was dirty, and the fuel mixture
is probably still too rich.
Current temps looked like this. (I fixed the CHT!)
at 4500 and full throttle cht 375, egt 1020
at 1/2 throttle (down to 4000 rpm) cht 350 egt 900
at Idle (1400 rpm) there was no measurable egt and it runs a little
rough...(air screw tried between 1/2 and 4 turns with just a little
improvement in smoothness out at 3-4 turns
5) I moved the needle to the leanest setting (e clip at the top) temps same
except 925 egt at 4000 rpm.
I pulled out the trusty CPS book and found that the needle, needle jet and
idler jet were as recommended, but my main jet was a 185 where as the book
says I should have a 165 (nominal), a 160 on the ground (1900 ASL) in the
morning and a 155 at 1000 AGL in this desert heat.
I'm a little puzzled why the temps looked better at full throttle than in
the mid range though. I also found that the needle was a little worn around
the numbers (15K2) looked like 151- I guess the needle has worn there and
therefore maybe down at the taper too.
I removed the fuel pressure regulator (no change I just don't want it if I
dont need it.)
I checked the compression...105 PSI front, 106 PSI rear (this was on a cold
engine this morning so it's probably a little better than that.) I didn't
have the right size allen wrench for the exhaust bolts so I didn't peak at
the piston skirts.
I plan on buying some main jets and replacing the needle. Once the temps
look better across the range I check the prop pitch (IVO ground adjustable).
I guess some one may have messed with it or the original owner liked it set
for serious cruise.
I feel I'm getting closer but it's not yet airworthy. Any comments on my
current line of thinking and plan of attack?
Thanks in advance,
-Peter-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
Re: broadbanding antennas--within certain limits, the larger the
diameter (or x-section) of an ant., the broader its BW. I have used up
to 1" Cu pipe for VHF ham ants. I think a nice pc of 3/8 pipe, faired
around would be a both a nice looking ant and a good BB ant. And quit
obsessing with swrs below 3!
The idea of using Cu sticky-back tape (I make a lot of stained glass) is
fine, especially if you want to stick your tape ant to the inside of
nose cone.
bn using 50+ yr old *knowledge*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
You might consider the Verner 1400 which is a Czech made 4 stroke
opposed twin.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More on the rotax 477 quiz |
Peter,
When you had the aircleaner off, did you check that the throttle was
opening all the way?
John Jung
Peter Hudson wrote:
> snip...
>
> I feel I'm getting closer but it's not yet airworthy. Any comments on my
> current line of thinking and plan of attack?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Just read on the Kolb-site about John Hauck's trip. What a bloody shame ! !
! How could you ever plan on such a thing. Sorry, John.
Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
There was an article in Kit Planes a few months ago about using 2 slightly
different lengths of copper tape for an antenna. I'll dig around in the
next few days, and see what I can come up with. So far, I think Boyd's
co-ax dipole has my vote. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 1:06 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: swr
>
> Re: broadbanding antennas--within certain limits, the larger the
> diameter (or x-section) of an ant., the broader its BW. I have used up
> to 1" Cu pipe for VHF ham ants. I think a nice pc of 3/8 pipe, faired
> around would be a both a nice looking ant and a good BB ant. And quit
> obsessing with swrs below 3!
>
> The idea of using Cu sticky-back tape (I make a lot of stained glass) is
> fine, especially if you want to stick your tape ant to the inside of
> nose cone.
>
> bn using 50+ yr old *knowledge*
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More on the rotax 477 quiz |
In a message dated 7/2/00 3:37:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
phudson(at)iwvisp.com writes:
<< I plan on buying some main jets and replacing the needle. Once the temps
look better across the range I check the prop pitch (IVO ground adjustable).
I guess some one may have messed with it or the original owner liked it set
for serious cruise.
I feel I'm getting closer but it's not yet airworthy. Any comments on my
current line of thinking and plan of attack?
Thanks in advance,
-Peter-
>>
Just sounds like too much pitch to me Peter, unless I'm missin sompin.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hawk's Flight |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
John,
What can we say? Glad you are OK! Will be keeping good thoughts for you
and the recovery process.
Ray Baker
writes:
>
>
> Just read on the Kolb-site about John Hauck's trip. What a bloody
> shame ! !
> ! How could you ever plan on such a thing. Sorry, John.
> Big Lar.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WingManBill2(at)aol.com |
Is there a web site for the Verner engine? Might as well add it to my list
of possible engines!
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>Bob.. the URL you showed is bogus...
>Dennis Douglas
Oops . . . was logged into the hard-drive version when I
captured the URL to my clipboard. You can find it on my website
at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
Thanks for the heads up!
>"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
>> >Amp makes a tool available through Newark Electronics or you can order
>> >direct from Amp on their web page. I recall that both of these connectors
>> >take the same crimper. It's called a Service Tool II but I don't have a
>> >part number.
>>
>> I was going to stock this tool . . . tried to order a couple
>> dozen and was informed that AMP has discontinued it. It was
>> one of best values around in a low-cost open-barrel crimper.
>> Very well made compared to some of the tools I've been evaluating
>> over the past month.
>>
>> We've finally decided on one and have inquiries out to
>> several warehouses that stock them. See how it works at:
>>
>> file:///D|/0_WEBSIT/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
>>
>> I hope to put this tool in our website catalog for about the
>> same price as what the Service Tool II would have cost.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
>Re: broadbanding antennas--within certain limits, the larger the
>diameter (or x-section) of an ant., the broader its BW. I have used up
>to 1" Cu pipe for VHF ham ants. I think a nice pc of 3/8 pipe, faired
>around would be a both a nice looking ant and a good BB ant. And quit
>obsessing with swrs below 3!
>
>The idea of using Cu sticky-back tape (I make a lot of stained glass) is
>fine, especially if you want to stick your tape ant to the inside of
>nose cone.
if you use a wide strip material for your antena and cut it at an angle you
create an antena that is optimised for a range of frequencies. effectivly
your making an antena that has a part tuned to 24" and a part that is tuned
to 23 inches and everywhere in between. That is how I plan on building mine
when I get to it.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Bruner" <brunerd(at)hvi.net> |
>
> Is there a web site for the Verner engine? Might as well add it to my
list
> of possible engines!
>
Bill,
Here it is:
http://www.teleport.com/~zlinak/engine/engine.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
Okay Petter. One more try. I usually do not tell people this cause they all
think I am wrong but I have been using the 11G2 (582) needle in my carb on my
single carb, 447 mounted on my 86' circa firestar. This is the second "new"
447 from Smith in Mississippi that I have had and both run great on this
needle. Be careful not to get the 11K2 - 503 needle. It is different at the
mid-range and wont work. Every other needle I have tried (all recommende by
rotax) (factory installed) were way to wet. mid-range bad, hardly would idle
and missed on mid range bad. smoke. My needle is in the third down position
and my chts are usually 335 and egs usually at 1100 to 1130. On decent at
about 4500 or so the egs go to 1200 but this is good cause the engine stays
hot. Try it. I have an old 11G2 I could send in an envelope if you want to
try. Remember one thing, the needle governs mid-range pretty much and if it
is too wet, it wont rev up or might be too hot. The taper is the judge. Got
a G50 zenoa that wont rev up when it is too wet. hope this helps. Ted Cowan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RUnder1680(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: mark III/Xtra advice |
Ed,
My name is Lee Underwood,Im building a Mk 3 extra here in Albuquerque, NM.
I actually upgraded my Mk 3 classic before they sent out my fus kit. I have 1
wing 1 flap and 1 aileron finished with 80% of my other wing done, I also
have the tail finished but as soon as the Xtra fus gets here I'll have to
build a new tail. You can call me at home @ (505)890-5426 or e-mail me at
RUnder1680(at)aol.com I have some jigs and some ideas that made my life a lot
easier if you are interested.LEE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Gassmann <agassmann(at)earthlink.net> |
The Verner 1400 webpage is at:
http://www.teleport.com/~zlinak/index.html
It is listed at 80 HP @ 5000 rpm. Weight 165 pounds complete.
$7250 complete except battery + $250 shipping
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: More on the rotax 477 quiz |
Your noticing that the needle might have some wear is a good clue. That
will richen up your midrange, which is the point that the engine does not
want to pull past. The removal of the air cleaner helping at that point
indicates that mid range mixture may be a contributor to the problem.
Needle jets normally wear to the point of notably changing the run
characteristics of the engine within 300 hours or less.
Something else: My 532 is down about 300 RPM on climb out over the last
several months, and I have changed nothing. I have an IVO Prop, and am
wondering if the prop is sitting out in that hot hangar, and something is
gradually "relaxing" and letting the prop ease itself to a slightly higher
pitch?
I am going to have to take some pitch out of mine, or it will soon be doing
what yours is doing...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hi gang,
>
>A short while ago I posted a story of my trouble shooting problems on my
>newly aquired 477 on a firestar 2.
>Several of you offer lots of good advice..Thanks guys (Richard, Woody,
>Jerryb)
>
>Here's some more info...I'm sending to the list cause you never know who's
>been there before.
>
>When I last left off, the little engine that couldn't ...couldn't rev up
>passed 3500 RPM.
>At the time my primary suspect was fuel delivery to the carb...too much
>mostly.
>
>I was out tinkering this weekend and here's what I found out.
>
>1) I rebuilt the carb mostly to be sure the float needle was new and no
>hidden dirt was there.
>run-up...no change.I aslo checked the float level was 1/2 inch without the
>floats in.
>
>2) I added a full pressure regulator set at 2,3,4,5 psi none of the setting
>had any effect
>conclusion: I had good flow, no overpowering the carb (no fuel out the
>overflow etc.)
>
>3) I checked the muffler for obstruction (based on good bee story!) no
>obstructions were found.
>
>4) I tried it without the air filter. CHANGE! this was the first hint. the
>max RPM went up to 4500 (with the throttle lever from about 1/2 to full
>throttle). I cleaned the airfilter again with extra care and reinstalled
>it. still 4400-4500 RPM . Conclusion...It was dirty, and the fuel mixture
>is probably still too rich.
>
>Current temps looked like this. (I fixed the CHT!)
>at 4500 and full throttle cht 375, egt 1020
>at 1/2 throttle (down to 4000 rpm) cht 350 egt 900
>at Idle (1400 rpm) there was no measurable egt and it runs a little
>rough...(air screw tried between 1/2 and 4 turns with just a little
>improvement in smoothness out at 3-4 turns
>
>5) I moved the needle to the leanest setting (e clip at the top) temps same
>except 925 egt at 4000 rpm.
>
>I pulled out the trusty CPS book and found that the needle, needle jet and
>idler jet were as recommended, but my main jet was a 185 where as the book
>says I should have a 165 (nominal), a 160 on the ground (1900 ASL) in the
>morning and a 155 at 1000 AGL in this desert heat.
>
>I'm a little puzzled why the temps looked better at full throttle than in
>the mid range though. I also found that the needle was a little worn around
>the numbers (15K2) looked like 151- I guess the needle has worn there and
>therefore maybe down at the taper too.
>
>I removed the fuel pressure regulator (no change I just don't want it if I
>dont need it.)
>
>I checked the compression...105 PSI front, 106 PSI rear (this was on a cold
>engine this morning so it's probably a little better than that.) I didn't
>have the right size allen wrench for the exhaust bolts so I didn't peak at
>the piston skirts.
>
>I plan on buying some main jets and replacing the needle. Once the temps
>look better across the range I check the prop pitch (IVO ground adjustable).
>I guess some one may have messed with it or the original owner liked it set
>for serious cruise.
>
>I feel I'm getting closer but it's not yet airworthy. Any comments on my
>current line of thinking and plan of attack?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>-Peter-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)tetric.com> |
To all,
Anyone needing a trailer that can be used to transport a Kolb or as a
hanger might consider this one. It is a 32' (24' lower floor & 8' upper
floor) by 8' wide by 7' high, tandem axle, rear cable/spring assist ramp
door, curbside door, interior and running lights, electric brakes, high
lift front jack, steel framed, prepainted white aluminum sheet exterior,
luan interior walls, plywood floor, almost new tires, new spare, one piece
steel roof, 5th wheel (can be a gooseneck) trailer. I paid $8K Plus TTL 18
months ago. I would sell for $6.5K. It is located in central Texas.
Thanks!
Cliff Stripling striplic(at)tetric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Branscomb" <wbrans(at)provide.net> |
Richard "Woody" Wood, of LaSalle Ontario, Canada, piloted my 1986 Kolb
Twinstar on its maiden flight at 12 noon on July 2, 2000 from the Rahe
Airstrip at Petersburg, Michigan. The 25 minute flight was witnessed Woody's
sidekick and fellow builder, Andy Bondy. Along with the joyful owner, me,
were Kolb lovers Bill and Joyce Futrell, who are building a Mark III Extra.
The skies were clear but the wind was 90 degrees across the runway at 10 to
15 mph. As Woody parked the airplane after its first flight, he said, "The
airplane flies beautifully but the air is rough out there today."
Warren Branscomb
1986 Kolb Twinstar
Belleville, Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Maiden flight |
Congratulations ! ! ! Good for you, and Woody, too. See, I'm a poet and
didn't know it. Have fun with your new toy, and say hi to Woody for me.
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Branscomb <wbrans(at)provide.net>
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2000 5:28 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Maiden flight
>
> Richard "Woody" Wood, of LaSalle Ontario, Canada, piloted my 1986 Kolb
> Twinstar on its maiden flight at 12 noon on July 2, 2000 from the Rahe
> Airstrip at Petersburg, Michigan. The 25 minute flight was witnessed
Woody's
> sidekick and fellow builder, Andy Bondy. Along with the joyful owner, me,
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 07/02/00 |
<<<<<<<<<
if you use a wide strip material for your antena and cut it
at an angle you
create an antena that is optimised for a range of
frequencies. effectivly
your making an antena that has a part tuned to 24" and a
part that is tuned
to 23 inches and everywhere in between. That is how I plan
on building mine
when I get to it.
Topher
>>>>>>>>>>
tnx topher when i mentioned the copper foil antenna i had
forgot to mention the angle cut on the ends... good work.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | SWRs and Radio Signal strength |
Hey Kolber Gang and Lurkers,
All this talk about SWRs and power waves and such gives me a headache. I
haven't ever tested my radio with an SWR meter but it works very well just
the same. I'm not saying it wouldn't help but when I can talk for sometimes
over 200 miles why would I change it even if it were off a little? Stay with
me for a moment.
I had a older EAA pilot tell me once back when I was having a lot of radio
problems and trying different things with my radio that if I would cut my
antenna 21 and 3/16ths inches that would be about as close as I could get to
optimum with my Icom A-22. I did what he suggested and eliminated all the
testing and cutting. Now, one of my flying buddies that has just completed a
long (1230 mile) Cross-country with me picked up and transmitted to another
member of our club on Sunday, you got to remember he's using an older hand
held, it sort'a looks like a brick, but that distance was an unbelievable
290 miles/per GPS. I could here both transmitions but he was the only one
that could talk to them. We were only 1000' MSL so was our club member.
I say all that to say this. If you are having a lot of engine ignition noise
in your reception and you can't turn your squelch up very much you probably
won't ever be able to transmit very far or receive very far because the
noise will blank your signal out or make it useless. For some reason my
buddies radio doesn't pick up or trnsmit very much engine ignition noise. He
is the one who has always been able to get out there.
When we can bearly here he talks to them like they are in the cockpit with
him.
Radios and radio signals a quirky things to me. I just won't to be able to
communicate while in the air mainly to be safe.
I'll keep reading and maybe I'll learn something here.
Happy 4th
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel bearings |
I just got back in town to night. The bearings should be available from,
most bearing supply houses. There should be one near you. For sure cost
should be $5 or less for them. I try to get you phone number for the
bearing company near me in Dallas.
jerryb
>
>JerryB
>
>How about a Phone number ---I also need some high speed bearings,unless I
>missed something on the list-I am not familiar with the supplier you
>mentioned or how to contact them
>
>Reply at your earliest possible convenience.
>
>Lindy
>LA-Lower Alabama
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antenna angle |
<< if you use a wide strip material for your antena and cut it at an angle you
...[snip].... that has a part tuned to 24" and a part that is tuned to 23 inches
and everywhere in between. >>
,, when i mentioned the copper foil antenna i had
forgot to mention the angle cut on the ends... >>
How much of an angle, guys?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ahearn" <dahearn(at)home.com> |
Greetings all from a lurker ....
I've recently switched my homebuilding daydreams to
the Kolb channel!
For years I've been thinking about an RV however I
really think the Kolb offers more of the kind of
flying I'm looking for these days. Low cost, low
altitude, low speed, and a lower build time.
So I'm sitting here in the middle of NJ wondering if
there is anyone building a Mark III Xtra or any Kolb product for that
matter? I'd sure
appreciate a chance to learn more about the kit, and the airplane.
I'm also curious about flying characteristics. Most of my experience is in
DOD equipment however I did manage a transition to gliders with no problem.
TIA
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
Dan,
You have switched to the RIGHT channel! You will find quite a few different
models of Kolbs being built on the list, just hang in there for a while. You
might want to check out the archives, a very good source of information and
amusement.
Dennis (In Southern MD.)
"Original Firestar"
Love my Kolb but not getting much flying time.
PS. Welcome to the List.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Ahearn" <dahearn(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 8:15 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: New Guy
>
> Greetings all from a lurker ....
>
> I've recently switched my homebuilding daydreams to
> the Kolb channel!
>
> For years I've been thinking about an RV however I
> really think the Kolb offers more of the kind of
> flying I'm looking for these days. Low cost, low
> altitude, low speed, and a lower build time.
>
> So I'm sitting here in the middle of NJ wondering if
> there is anyone building a Mark III Xtra or any Kolb product for that
> matter? I'd sure
> appreciate a chance to learn more about the kit, and the airplane.
>
> I'm also curious about flying characteristics. Most of my experience is in
> DOD equipment however I did manage a transition to gliders with no
problem.
>
> TIA
>
> Dan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: flaps releasing |
I have been listening to the discussions on flaps slipping out of the notch and
moving to less/no flaps. I guess I don't understand what really happens when
the flap position changes. Flaps increase drag, lift, and reduce the stall speed.
They also increase the effective angle of attack.
I use the flaps on my MKIII to control my approach to landing and have never experienced
stalling problems when reducing the flap settings. Now I always fly
a 50KTS approach on final which is well above stall. What I experience when reducing
flaps is reduced drag and a pitch up trim change. The pitch trim change
is more than you really want in both adding and reducing flaps but doesn't require
much stick pressure adjustment. What I'm trying to say is if the flap popped
up on approach it might effect your touch down point but shouldn't ruin your
day. If the flap popped off as you were rounding out for touch down it might
cause a hard landing but......
I made the change to a more secure flap detent when I built my plane but I don't
see this as a big problem. What am I missing?
Rick Neilsen
VW powered MKIII 33Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <jon(at)twistedbits.net> |
| Subject: | Clevis pins source |
I would like to replace the clevis pins for the wing struts, the pins
near the leading edge, and the flaperon clevis pins. (6 total) I checked
through the plans and builder's manual, but I don't see any sizes
listed. I measured mine with a micrometer and checked out CPS's web site,
but they only list 2 different sizes, neither of which seem to fit the
bill. I thought about using an 18-8 stainless pin from a hardware store,
but I DEFINITELY don't want to cut any corners as these pins are the only
things keeping my wings from folding up in flight. The pins that came with
the kit say "AN" on the head. Do I need AN pins? If so, where can I get them?
Thanks very much in advance!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Clevis pins source |
In a message dated 7/5/00 4:13:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jon(at)twistedbits.net writes:
<< The pins that came with
the kit say "AN" on the head. Do I need AN pins? If so, where can I get
them? >>
Kolb should have them. Do you fold the wings? If not, why don't you replace
the pins with AN bolts, washers, & nuts? You'll feel safer....
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charlie Martin" <chuggs(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Clevis pins source |
Here's one place:
http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/spruce/pages.cgi/metaltoc?
Type the word clevis in the search box...and bingo, you'll get a listing
of all the clevis pins that they carry.
Charlie
> I would like to replace the clevis pins for the wing struts, the pins
>near the leading edge, and the flaperon clevis pins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flaps releasing |
>
The problem is flying close to the stall speed with full flaps and then
the flaps pop up to zero and suddenly you are far below stall speed. This
will be a different reaction than when you slowly sneak up on a stall. If
you are close to the ground you may not have time to correct.
>I made the change to a more secure flap detent when I built my plane but I
>don't see this as a big problem. What am I missing?
>
>Rick Neilsen
>VW powered MKIII 33Hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <jon(at)twistedbits.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Clevis pins source |
>
>
>Here's one place:
>
>http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/spruce/pages.cgi/metaltoc?
>
>Type the word clevis in the search box...and bingo, you'll get a listing
>of all the clevis pins that they carry.
Thanks, guys! I'll give Aircraft Spruce a try. Howard, yep I do fold
my wings. I just finished putting in a hangar at my house though so I
won't need to fold them anywhere near as much as I used to. I suppose I
could use bolts and just swap in the clevis pins whenever I trailer it to a
fly-in or something. Does anyone else have an opinion on this? Is the
strength of the clevis vs bolt the main issue, or is it the safety pin?
Thanks again!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: flaps releasing |
OK
But when you are flying with full flaps you will be flying level with a LOT of
power, no power and pointed down BIG TIME or some where in between. In this mode
when you go to zero flaps your angle of attack is reduced and you will likely
pass your stall speed very quickly. The angle of attack is reduced enough that
you will not stall unless you yank the stick back and cause it to stall.
>>> duesouth(at)quik.com 07/05/00 03:52PM >>>
>
The problem is flying close to the stall speed with full flaps and then
the flaps pop up to zero and suddenly you are far below stall speed. This
will be a different reaction than when you slowly sneak up on a stall. If
you are close to the ground you may not have time to correct.
>I made the change to a more secure flap detent when I built my plane but I
>don't see this as a big problem. What am I missing?
>
>Rick Neilsen
>VW powered MKIII 33Hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Fletcher" <bwf(at)emailmn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: no motor required |
Check out www.rubberbandit.com Just for fun.
============================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Clevis pins source |
Hi Jon and all,
I got mine from "Boaters World" or "West Marine Supply". They are Stainless
Steel and you can find the SS safety pins or the safety rings. They have
them in lots of sizes and lengths. I use to sail and I used the same pins on
my sail boat. I don't believe that my plane will ever incounter near the
stress that my sailboat could put on a 1/4" pin and I never broke or had to
replace one. I had other parts of my boat break but not the pins. I use the
rings and run them through a clip of fuel line I slip over the extra pin
that sticks out. The fuel line will keep the pin from spinning or vibrating
which reduces the wear in the hole. I keep a little oil on them and the fuel
line also helps hold the oil longer where the wear occurs. With over 1000
hours and close to 2000 landings on my plane, I am still using the same pins
and clips with very little wear.
Just my experience,
Firehawk
I would like to replace the clevis pins for the wing struts, the pins
>near the leading edge, and the flaperon clevis pins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna angle |
>How much of an angle, guys?
Depends on the width of the material and the range you want to cover. if
you want to cover from 23 to 24 inches then cutting a 1 inch wide copper
strip at 45 degrees will do it. ( that is just an example)
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SWRs and Radio Signal strength |
>
>Hey Kolber Gang and Lurkers,
> All this talk about SWRs and power waves and such gives me a headache. I
>haven't ever tested my radio with an SWR meter but it works very well just
>the same. I'm not saying it wouldn't help but when I can talk for sometimes
>over 200 miles why would I change it even if it were off a little? Stay with
>me for a moment.
> I had a older EAA pilot tell me once back when I was having a lot of radio
>problems and trying different things with my radio that if I would cut my
>antenna 21 and 3/16ths inches that would be about as close as I could get to
>optimum with my Icom A-22. I did what he suggested and eliminated all the
>testing and cutting. Now, one of my flying buddies that has just completed a
>long (1230 mile) Cross-country with me picked up and transmitted to another
>member of our club on Sunday, you got to remember he's using an older hand
>held, it sort'a looks like a brick, but that distance was an unbelievable
>290 miles/per GPS. I could here both transmitions but he was the only one
>that could talk to them. We were only 1000' MSL so was our club member.
>I say all that to say this. If you are having a lot of engine ignition noise
>in your reception and you can't turn your squelch up very much you probably
>won't ever be able to transmit very far or receive very far because the
>noise will blank your signal out or make it useless. For some reason my
>buddies radio doesn't pick up or trnsmit very much engine ignition noise. He
>is the one who has always been able to get out there.
>When we can bearly here he talks to them like they are in the cockpit with
>him.
>Radios and radio signals a quirky things to me. I just won't to be able to
>communicate while in the air mainly to be safe.
>I'll keep reading and maybe I'll learn something here.
>Happy 4th
>Firehawk
I'm working on an article about SWR and aviation antennas . . . but
suffice it to say for now that an SWR of up to 3:1 produces so small
an effect at the receiving end as to be barely noticed.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flaps releasing |
>But when you are flying with full flaps you will be flying level with a LOT
of power, no power and pointed down BIG TIME or some where in between. In
this mode when you go to zero flaps your angle of attack is reduced and you
will likely pass your stall speed very quickly. The angle of attack is
reduced enough that you will not stall unless you yank the stick back and
cause it to stall.
The point is to make sure your flap detents are working solidly so that you
dont end up with a surprise flap retraction at a time when you cant afford
it. the reason to use flaps is to allow for shorter field landings and to
do that you use their stall speed lowering capabilities. if they retract
your wing will instantly stall and you will find yourself in a suddenly
shorter cockpit in a small trench in the ground. dont think this is
something most of use want to try.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SWRs and Radio Signal strength |
>
> I'm working on an article about SWR and aviation antennas . . . but
> suffice it to say for now that an SWR of up to 3:1 produces so small
> an effect at the receiving end as to be barely noticed.
>
>
> Bob . . .
Thanks Bob,
See, I didn't know that. I knew I could learn something here.
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
"FlyChallenger" ,
Just wanted to remind everyone that the All Nebraska Ultralight Gathering
is this weekend in David City, NE. Details @
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc/anug.pdf
If you want to come and you're not from NE, we won't tell anyone. :>)
J.D. Stewart
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/challenger
N.E. Nebraska Flying Club
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Haines" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
----- Original Message -----
Hello gang, I have ordered my gauges, they include...
...that spells no room...
...Gary r. voigt
Gary,
It's seems that everyone agrees that a EIS is the best way to go. But in
your message, you state that you have ordered your gages, so I assume that
it's a little too late to completely change your course.
My suggestion is to get creative placing your gages. The thermometer and
compass don't have to be on the panel (unless they are only panel
mountable). I like how Piper sticks these on the windshield post. Also, if
you are only going to use the Hobbs for scheduling maintenance, stick that
somewhere else as well.
This is somewhat tongue-in-cheek but some hot-rods/muscle-cars put their
tachometer on the hood right in front of the driver. Try that. :)
Robert Haines
SlingShot in progress
St. Louis, MO
http://roberthaines.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Clevis pins source |
When I went looking for a set of spare pins I dug out some that were
purchased at Sun 'N Fun the year before. Several were too long so I decided
to just whack them off and be happy. About the third swipe with a hacksaw I
noticed that all of the hacksaw blade teeth were gone. The point is that the
hardness of the pins may vary significantly. I would prefer to have those
hard ones and be careful of any available at hardware stores, lawnmower shops
etc.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FireFly, 447, Ivo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flaps releasing |
>
>OK
>
>But when you are flying with full flaps you will be flying level with a
>LOT of power, no power and pointed down BIG TIME or some where in between.
>In this mode when you go to zero flaps your angle of attack is reduced and
>you will likely pass your stall speed very quickly. The angle of attack is
>reduced enough that you will not stall unless you yank the stick back and
>cause it to stall.
If you are flying full flaps you will probably be at a very reduced
power level other wise why would you have the flaps full down unless you
use the first notch for take off. Usually you do not use full flaps to take
off with. When you go to zero flaps instantaniously you are well below
stall speed instantaniously.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
by smtp102.urscorp.com (Lotus Domino Release 5.0.2c (Intl))
with ESMTP id 2000070616205537":11349(at)matronics.com;
2000) at 07/06/2000 04:28:24 PM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on SMTP102/URSCorp(Release 5.0.2c (Intl)|2 February
2000) at 07/06/2000 04:20:55 PM,
Serialize by Router on SMTP102/URSCorp(Release 5.0.2c (Intl)|2 February
2000) at 07/06/2000 04:20:58 PM,
Serialize complete at 07/06/2000 04:20:58 PM
Hey guys
Am planning on ordering EIS and re-doing my instrument panel. Found out
that within the next weekor so, a new EIS model will be available for the
912 that allows altitude and air speed as options for those willingto shell
out more $ (altitude and airspeed previously available only on 2-stroke EIS
model). I really like the idea of having an "all in one" instrument, but
got me to thinking..... do I really want to depend on the EIS for airspeed,
the single most critical display? Seems entirely posible that an in-flight
electrical problem would leave me hanging with no airspeed indicator.
Furthermore, it seems that my existing mechanical airspeed gauge is very
unlikely to have a total failure in flight, and so whats the point of
spending $ to use the EIS as a backup airspeed indicator?
What do you guys think?
Decisions, decisions....
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
5383 Hollister Avenue, Suite 120
Santa Barbara, California 93111
805-683-0200
805-683-0201 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
Airspeed is the ONE instrument I wanted to be analog on my plane. Too
hard
to get the numbers to register, when they're really needed. Grand Rapids
sells an analog airspeed indicator for cost ($110, and it's USA made) so
they have a complete package.
J.D. Stewart
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/challenger
>
> Hey guys
> Am planning on ordering EIS and re-doing my instrument panel. Found out
> that within the next weekor so, a new EIS model will be available for the
> 912 that allows altitude and air speed as options for those
> willingto shell
> out more $ (altitude and airspeed previously available only on
> 2-stroke EIS
> model). I really like the idea of having an "all in one" instrument, but
> got me to thinking..... do I really want to depend on the EIS for
> airspeed,
> the single most critical display? Seems entirely posible that an
> in-flight
> electrical problem would leave me hanging with no airspeed indicator.
> Furthermore, it seems that my existing mechanical airspeed gauge is very
> unlikely to have a total failure in flight, and so whats the point of
> spending $ to use the EIS as a backup airspeed indicator?
>
> What do you guys think?
> Decisions, decisions....
>
> Erich Weaver
> erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
> 5383 Hollister Avenue, Suite 120
> Santa Barbara, California 93111
>
> 805-683-0200
> 805-683-0201 fax
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: John H Is Home, He Needs Some Help |
John H.
Does the trailer absolutely have to be enclosed? What about a car hauler or
even a roll-back? I'll ask some guys around here.
Bill Beams
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ahearn" <dahearn(at)home.com> |
I find the analog Airspeed indicator much better in the patttern. It's
easier to scan the position of the needle.
With a Hud, well never mind :)
I agree with the concerns of power failure.
Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com by smtp102.urscorp.com (Lotus Domino Release
5.0.2c (Intl)) with ESMTP id do I really want to depend on the EIS for
airspeed,
> the single most critical display? Seems entirely posible that an
in-flight
> electrical problem would leave me hanging with no airspeed indicator.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: room for gauges |
My Hobbs meter sits on a little rubber mounted bracket between the left
rear spar carry-through, and the left rear motor mount bracket. Works fine,
is close to the wind switch that turns it off and on, and keeps it off the
panel and out of the way.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>----- Original Message -----
>Hello gang, I have ordered my gauges, they include...
>...that spells no room...
>...Gary r. voigt
>
>Gary,
>
>It's seems that everyone agrees that a EIS is the best way to go. But in
>your message, you state that you have ordered your gages, so I assume that
>it's a little too late to completely change your course.
>
>My suggestion is to get creative placing your gages. The thermometer and
>compass don't have to be on the panel (unless they are only panel
>mountable). I like how Piper sticks these on the windshield post. Also, if
>you are only going to use the Hobbs for scheduling maintenance, stick that
>somewhere else as well.
>
>This is somewhat tongue-in-cheek but some hot-rods/muscle-cars put their
>tachometer on the hood right in front of the driver. Try that. :)
>
>Robert Haines
>SlingShot in progress
>St. Louis, MO
>http://roberthaines.tripod.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 07/05/00 |
<< if you use a wide strip material for your antena and cut
it at an angle you
...[snip].... that has a part tuned to 24" and a part that
is tuned to 23
inches and everywhere in between. >>
,, when i mentioned the copper foil antenna i had
forgot to mention the angle cut on the ends... >>
How much of an angle, guys?
for 1/2 inch wide copper foil tape the short side should be
about 3/4 inches shorter than the long side.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: room for gauges |
In a message dated 7/7/00 5:01:24 AM, richard(at)BCChapel.org writes:
<< My Hobbs meter sits on a little rubber mounted bracket between the left
rear spar carry-through, and the left rear motor mount bracket. Works fine,
is close to the wind switch that turns it off and on, and keeps it off the
panel and out of the way. >>
Continuing with the "not enough panel room" thread I finally got my Microair
transceiver to fit in the panel. To accomplish that feat I put it in the hole
where my quad engine gauge was (EGT, EGT, CHT, CHT). Then I purchased a 2
inch EGT/EGT gauge and stuck that where the water temp gauge used to be.
Bottom line is now I have no CHT or water temperature. Would like to have at
least one of those indicators.
There is not enough room left for even a two incher so I am wondering if
there is a tiny temp gauge I can get for either the CHT or water temperature.
It could even be an idiot light I guess. Couldn't find one in LEAF or CPS
catalogs. Any ideas?
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
Bill;
They make a single 2" with EGT and CHT. Use your PTO since it is usually
the hottest. Try Aircraft Spruce or CPS. Can you post a picture of you
panel? One of the smart kolb people may be able to help with your space
problem.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com [mailto:WGeorge737(at)aol.com]
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: room for gauges
In a message dated 7/7/00 5:01:24 AM, richard(at)BCChapel.org writes:
<< My Hobbs meter sits on a little rubber mounted bracket between the left
rear spar carry-through, and the left rear motor mount bracket. Works fine,
is close to the wind switch that turns it off and on, and keeps it off the
panel and out of the way. >>
Continuing with the "not enough panel room" thread I finally got my Microair
transceiver to fit in the panel. To accomplish that feat I put it in the
hole
where my quad engine gauge was (EGT, EGT, CHT, CHT). Then I purchased a 2
inch EGT/EGT gauge and stuck that where the water temp gauge used to be.
Bottom line is now I have no CHT or water temperature. Would like to have at
least one of those indicators.
There is not enough room left for even a two incher so I am wondering if
there is a tiny temp gauge I can get for either the CHT or water
temperature.
It could even be an idiot light I guess. Couldn't find one in LEAF or CPS
catalogs. Any ideas?
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: room for gauges |
In a message dated 7/7/00 5:22:46 PM, woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil writes:
<< They make a single 2" with EGT and CHT. Use your PTO since it is usually
the hottest. Try Aircraft Spruce or CPS. Can you post a picture of you
panel? One of the smart kolb people may be able to help with your space
problem. >>
Hey John,
I'm committed to the dual EGTs as they are the prime indictor of engine
health. They indicate carb problems, intake or exhaust leaks, etc. My web
page does show my panel as it was. Just substitute the radio for the quad
gauge and the dual EGT for the water temp.
Bill G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: room for gauges |
In a message dated 7/7/00 5:22:46 PM, woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil writes:
<< They make a single 2" with EGT and CHT. Use your PTO since it is usually
the hottest. Try Aircraft Spruce or CPS. Can you post a picture of you
panel? One of the smart kolb people may be able to help with your space
problem. >>
Forgot to give the URL for my page. It is: Bill
George's Kolb Pg.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Benson" <jimben(at)clear.lakes.com> |
| Subject: | Re: John H Is Home, He Needs Some Help |
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 7:22 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: John H Is Home, He Needs Some Help
>
> Hi Gang:
>
> Home again. Trying to get all the paperwork together for
> the insurance company, find an inclosed 24 ft long or
> longer (inside measurement) trailer, 5th wheel or bumper
> hitch type.
>
John:
I may have what you need in the line of a trailer, although it is here in
Minnesota, fairly close to your flight route to Alaska. It is a 26'
enclosed Pace American with tandem axle with trailer brakes. It needs a 2
5/16" ball hitch. It is 8 1/2' wide. I recently purchased this to haul my
Mark III to Phoenix this coming winter, but it would be available for a
couple of months if need be.
I live in Glencoe, MN, which is about 50 miles west of Mpls. If this may be
of interest to you, you can e-mail me or let know over the Kolb-list,
whatever is convenient. My phone is 320-864-5257.
Jim Benson
407 13th Street E.
Glencoe MN 55336-1302
Mark III - 224, 68.1 hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Trailer Support for Miss P'fer |
Howdy Gang:
As of right now, I have a trailer lined up to retrieve Miss
P'fer and my personal gear from Muncho Lake, BC. A friend
and fellow retired Army Aviator has offered me his 24 ft
inclosed trailer. Am driving down to Enterprise, Al, in the
morning to pick it up and get it ready for the trip.
I want all of you to know how much I appreciate your concern
and support. I would like to answer each email personnaly
and individually, but I am pressed for time and just can not
do that now. The clock is ticking. Monday after next the
Swiss proprietor of the Northern Rockies Lodge will start
charging me $20.00 per day. That adds up quick, even in
Canadian dollars. If I get out of here Monday I will
probably arrive Muncho Lake 8 days later if I have no
problems enroute. A couple days at Muncho to get loaded,
squared away, and a little rest, then back down the highway
to Alabama. Trip will involve approximately 7,600 miles in
its entirety. One high light will be a trip to the Liard
River Hot Springs about 25 miles north of Muncho. The water
is so hot you have to get down stream from the source to
keep from getting boiled like a lobster. However, it even
makes old bones and muscles feel good.
Again, thanks for your help and support. Makes an old guy
feel good to know he has so many friends out there. Maybe I
can make it all up to you all one of these days.
I am sorry we (me and Miss P'fer) could not have finished
our flight. Everything was going so good. However, we
still have an unofficial record from the 1994 flight. No
one has come close to that flight in any type of aircraft
that I know of. I have a feeling it will stand for a long
time. A tribute to our little Kolb airplanes that can do
just about anything we want them to do. They are safe,
strong, fun, and for the most part, will always get you
home. :-) Even the best horses get sore ankles once in a
while.
Thanks gang,
john h
PS: Do not know if I will have time to make Oshkosh this
year. If I do not make it, I will see you all in Lakeland
or Osh next year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mark III Parts for Sale |
| From: | Will M Tatham <wmtatham(at)juno.com> |
A friend of mine died in an accident in his Mark III about a year ago.
He was flying with a buddy of his at the time of the crash and the cause
remains a baffling mystery. This guy was a very cautious pilot and no
problem was found in the airplane. A machinist inspector by trade, this
guy was meticulous in his building technique. He was the type that, if
the covering wasn't just right (i.e.-perfect), he'd pull it off and start
over. And this wasn't done for show, he just wanted it done right. This
was his first homebuilt project and a real tribute to his skill.
Tragically, he left behind a wife and a couple young kids. The widow
asked me to handle selling his airplane stash so I'll list it here for
your consideration. Contact me for prices. Again, all parts are new
surplus from the Mark III project:
+ tubing +
x .035 x 12'
1 x .058 x 12'
6" full-length spar
some 5/16
+ other +
Mikuni dual fuel pump
set of gear legs
good supply of spark plugs
clecos and pliers
misc. Stits coatings
1, 2 & 3" fabric tapes
fuselage bottom skid
vertical speed indicator 2 " opening (used)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)quik.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III Parts for Sale |
>
>Please send me a price list
Woody
>+ tubing +
> x .035 x 12'
>1 x .058 x 12'
>6" full-length spar
>some 5/16
>
>+ other +
>Mikuni dual fuel pump
>set of gear legs
>good supply of spark plugs
>clecos and pliers
>misc. Stits coatings
>1, 2 & 3" fabric tapes
>fuselage bottom skid
>vertical speed indicator 2 " opening (used)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Thought this may be of some interest to you 2-strokers out there. This is
in KitPlanes, June, 2000, page 36, lower right side of the
page................"Hill modified the Rotax 447 with ceramic-coated pistons
and combustion chamber porting, and he installed a lightweight forged
piston, pin and rod bearing. Hill notes that the basic concept of ceramic
coating has been used by NASCAR racing for a dozen years. He reports a fuel
savings of 22% at the higher rpm where the Rotax is designed to operate. He
has observed a 50 lower CHT and an increase of 300 rpm. He feels that the
lighter weight reciprocating mass should increase engine life even with
higher rpm." Enjoy. Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
In Ultralight Flying for July 2000, is a good article by "Lister" Vic
Worthington from Wyoming, about the water based fabric covering system.
Good article, and serious food for thought. Thanks Vic. Also,
while I'm on articles, in Flying magazine for July 2000, in an article
called "Aftermath, Out of the Frying Pan" by Peter Garrison is an
interesting comment. The article starts on page 111, and at the end of page
112, he's talking about ultralights with BRS chutes............."If one can
trust the BSR (sic) "saves" list, however, parachutes seem to have been a
great boon to recreational aviation. The number of losses of control and
structural failures is astonishing - and those are only the airplanes that
happened to have parachutes. Either many recreational airplanes must be
very poorly made or maintained, or many of their pilots are very inept.
Come to think of it, perhaps that's why pilot training, pilot's licenses,
and airframe and engine certification were invented in the first place."
The bloody arrogance of the man is astonishing. What do YOU think ??
Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
These claims sound realistic to me. Perhaps the fuel savings is slightly
exagerrated. The Rotax 447 is basically a snowmobile engine. I am sure
the sled guys found out a long time ago how to wring some extra ponies
out of them. In modern racing motorcycles to get 65 hp out of a motor
like this would be reasonable and still have some longevity.
That would involve the lightweight pistons and rods and some very
accurate carburetion.
The 250cc grand prix racing motorcycles are capable of nearly 80 hp at
about 12,000 rpm and they really abuse these things in the longer
races. Engine failures are not too common.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Lar,
I am not suprised by his reaction to the BRS "save" reports. He is probably
a general aviation pilot so he has some bias to start with. Then the BRS claims
are just that. They "claim" a "save" every time a chute is deployed without a
death. In addition to that, BRS uses second person reports. Further, a lot of
the reports came from the earlier days of ultralighting, when his assumtions
where probably true.
John Jung
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> snip....
> Also,
> while I'm on articles, in Flying magazine for July 2000, in an article
> called "Aftermath, Out of the Frying Pan" by Peter Garrison is an
> interesting comment. The article starts on page 111, and at the end of page
> 112, he's talking about ultralights with BRS chutes............."If one can
> trust the BSR (sic) "saves" list, however, parachutes seem to have been a
> great boon to recreational aviation. The number of losses of control and
> structural failures is astonishing - and those are only the airplanes that
> happened to have parachutes. Either many recreational airplanes must be
> very poorly made or maintained, or many of their pilots are very inept.
> Come to think of it, perhaps that's why pilot training, pilot's licenses,
> and airframe and engine certification were invented in the first place."
> The bloody arrogance of the man is astonishing. What do YOU think ??
> Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Waligroski, Greg" <gwaligro(at)ball.com> |
There is not enough room left for even a two incher so I am wondering if
there is a tiny temp gauge I can get for either the CHT or water
temperature.
It could even be an idiot light I guess. Couldn't find one in LEAF or CPS
catalogs. Any ideas?
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
Bill, I used a CHT/EGT gauge and rigged a switch from the 2 CHT and 2 EGT
senders through a Dual Pole Dual Throw (DPDT) switch (small Radio Shack one)
and toggle between reading the CHT/EGT of the rear cylinder and then the
front cylinder. Seems to work fine. I typically leave it reading the
hotter of the two (front) and check the other occaisionally. I put the
toggle switch near my throttle so when that hand gets bored I just flick the
switch back and forth.......If you want I can send you a wiring chart for
doing it.
Gregg Waligroski
Kolb'n in Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
"Hill modified the Rotax 447 with ceramic-coated pistons
> and combustion chamber porting, and he installed a lightweight forged
> piston, pin and rod bearing. Hill notes that the basic concept of ceramic
> coating has been used by NASCAR racing for a dozen years. He reports a fuel
> savings of 22% at the higher rpm where the Rotax is designed to operate. He
> has observed a 50 lower CHT and an increase of 300 rpm. He feels that the
> lighter weight reciprocating mass should increase engine life even with
> higher rpm."
At what EGT?
J.Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT gauge space |
I did exactly the same thing on Vamoose, though in my case it hasn't been
run yet. Before doing this, I called Westach to see if it was OK, and the
engineer I talked to said fine, go ahead. Shouldn't be any problem. Wiring
is easy - bring a sensor output wire to each of the outer terminals on the
switch, ( hold the switch vertically, and figure the top and bottom leads as
"outer." ) and take the center wire of the switch to the gauge. Best to
have an "on - on" switch with no "off" position, though an "on-off-on" would
work. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Waligroski, Greg <gwaligro(at)ball.com>
k-3 582 "C" Powerfin
>
>
> Bill, I used a CHT/EGT gauge and rigged a switch from the 2 CHT and 2 EGT
> senders through a Dual Pole Dual Throw (DPDT) switch (small Radio Shack
one)
> and toggle between reading the CHT/EGT of the rear cylinder and then the
> front cylinder. Seems to work fine. I typically leave it reading the
> hotter of the two (front) and check the other occaisionally. I put the
> toggle switch near my throttle so when that hand gets bored I just flick
the
> switch back and forth.......If you want I can send you a wiring chart for
> doing it.
>
> Gregg Waligroski
> Kolb'n in Colorado
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
He doesn't say. I copied the article verbatim, but now you've got me
thinking. Ha Ha. Ceramic coating reflects heat from the piston doesn't it
?? Wouldn't that allow higher EGT's, and more efficient running ?? Or am I
all wet - again ??
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Baker <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 447
>
> "Hill modified the Rotax 447 with ceramic-coated pistons
> > and combustion chamber porting, and he installed a lightweight forged
> > piston, pin and rod bearing. Hill notes that the basic concept of
ceramic
> > coating has been used by NASCAR racing for a dozen years. He reports a
fuel
> > savings of 22% at the higher rpm where the Rotax is designed to operate.
He
> > has observed a 50 lower CHT and an increase of 300 rpm. He feels that
the
> > lighter weight reciprocating mass should increase engine life even with
> > higher rpm."
>
> At what EGT?
>
>
> J.Baker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CHT gauge space |
In a message dated 7/8/00 9:49:26 PM, gwaligro(at)ball.com writes:
<< Bill, I used a CHT/EGT gauge and rigged a switch from the 2 CHT and 2 EGT
senders through a Dual Pole Dual Throw (DPDT) switch (small Radio Shack one)
and toggle between reading the CHT/EGT of the rear cylinder and then the
front cylinder. Seems to work fine. I typically leave it reading the
hotter of the two (front) and check the other occaisionally. >>
A definite possibility. However, I'm kind of hung up on being able to look at
the two EGTs at the same time. Old airline habit I guess. Must be great
weather for Kolb'n in Colorado. :-)
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CHT SENDER UNDER A HEAD BOLT |
Anybody done this?? [R-503 DCDI]. Work PK?
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
I am having trouble remembering much of anything...but if heat is conducted
out of the piston through the sides and piston skirt from the piston to the
cylinder walls, through the piston side surface, then a ceramic coating on
the piston sides would seem counterproductive. But maybe a ceramic coating
on the piston dome would be helpful?
Comments?
Richarde Pike
MKIII N420P 420ldPoops)
>
>He doesn't say. I copied the article verbatim, but now you've got me
>thinking. Ha Ha. Ceramic coating reflects heat from the piston doesn't it
>?? Wouldn't that allow higher EGT's, and more efficient running ?? Or am I
>all wet - again ??
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Jim Baker <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 2:47 PM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 447
>
>
>>
>> "Hill modified the Rotax 447 with ceramic-coated pistons
>> > and combustion chamber porting, and he installed a lightweight forged
>> > piston, pin and rod bearing. Hill notes that the basic concept of
>ceramic
>> > coating has been used by NASCAR racing for a dozen years. He reports a
>fuel
>> > savings of 22% at the higher rpm where the Rotax is designed to operate.
>He
>> > has observed a 50 lower CHT and an increase of 300 rpm. He feels that
>the
>> > lighter weight reciprocating mass should increase engine life even with
>> > higher rpm."
>>
>> At what EGT?
>>
>>
>> J.Baker
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Date: Saturday, July 08, 2000 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 447
>
>I am having trouble remembering much of anything...but if heat is conducted
>out of the piston through the sides and piston skirt from the piston to the
>cylinder walls, through the piston side surface, then a ceramic coating on
>the piston sides would seem counterproductive. But maybe a ceramic coating
>on the piston dome would be helpful?
>Comments?
>Richarde Pike
>MKIII N420P 420ldPoops)
The idea with the ceramic coating is that it keeps the heat out of the
piston entirely, and in the charge where it can do work. this is why it
can increase fuel efficiency for a given output, and increase top RPM. If
the heat doesn't get into the piston then you dont need to get it out, so
coating the sides is helping keep the heat out not keeping it in.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
From what I've read elsewhere, I believe the ceramic coating IS on the
dome. I didn't ceramic coat my own pistons, cause it was just getting to be
too much. You have to stop somewhere. The Maule pistons did come from the
factory with teflon coated skirts, though, and this is supposed to reduce
friction too. Be interesting to see how well they hold up.
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 447
>
> I am having trouble remembering much of anything...but if heat is
conducted
> out of the piston through the sides and piston skirt from the piston to
the
> cylinder walls, through the piston side surface, then a ceramic coating on
> the piston sides would seem counterproductive. But maybe a ceramic coating
> on the piston dome would be helpful?
> Comments?
> Richarde Pike
> MKIII N420P 420ldPoops)
>
> >
> >He doesn't say. I copied the article verbatim, but now you've got me
> >thinking. Ha Ha. Ceramic coating reflects heat from the piston doesn't
it
> >?? Wouldn't that allow higher EGT's, and more efficient running ?? Or
am I
> >all wet - again ??
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Jim Baker <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
> >To:
> >Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 2:47 PM
> >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 447
> >
> >
> >>
> >> "Hill modified the Rotax 447 with ceramic-coated pistons
> >> > and combustion chamber porting, and he installed a lightweight forged
> >> > piston, pin and rod bearing. Hill notes that the basic concept of
> >ceramic
> >> > coating has been used by NASCAR racing for a dozen years. He reports
a
> >fuel
> >> > savings of 22% at the higher rpm where the Rotax is designed to
operate.
> >He
> >> > has observed a 50 lower CHT and an increase of 300 rpm. He feels
that
> >the
> >> > lighter weight reciprocating mass should increase engine life even
with
> >> > higher rpm."
> >>
> >> At what EGT?
> >>
> >>
> >> J.Baker
> >>
> >>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
"Kolb-List Digest List"
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 07/08/00 |
(...The article starts on page 111.........."If one can
trust the BSR (sic) "saves" list, however, parachutes seem to have been a
great boon to recreational aviation....Either many recreational airplanes
must be very poorly made or maintained, or many of their pilots are very
inept...
Big Lar.)
The real question is how many Kolbs fall out of the sky per year. That
would be a very interesting piece of information.
Robert Haines
SlingShot
Saint Louis, MO
http://roberthaines.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
"Kolb-List Digest List"
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 07/08/00 |
(...The article starts on page 111.........."If one can
trust the BSR (sic) "saves" list, however, parachutes seem to have been a
great boon to recreational aviation....Either many recreational airplanes
must be very poorly made or maintained, or many of their pilots are very
inept...
Big Lar.)
The real question is how many Kolbs fall out of the sky per year. That
would be a very interesting piece of information.
Robert Haines
SlingShot
Saint Louis, MO
http://roberthaines.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 07/08/00 |
Yah, that concerns us directly, doesn't it. But "fall out of the sky" is a
touchy phrase. Seems to me that all the Kolb problems I've heard about for
the last 2+ yrs that I've been on the list were due to pilot error, or
engine stoppage. Does anyone recall an accident caused by a failure of the
airframe ?? 'Course, John H.'s recent problem comes to mind, but his
landing gear failed on touch down; wasn't really an airframe failure. I'm
not jumping you, Robert, but trying to point up what a good airplane we've
all chosen. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 5:07 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 07/08/00
>
> (...The article starts on page 111.........."If one can
> trust the BSR (sic) "saves" list, however, parachutes seem to have been a
> great boon to recreational aviation....Either many recreational airplanes
> must be very poorly made or maintained, or many of their pilots are very
> inept...
> Big Lar.)
>
>
> The real question is how many Kolbs fall out of the sky per year. That
> would be a very interesting piece of information.
>
> Robert Haines
> SlingShot
> Saint Louis, MO
> http://roberthaines.tripod.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 07/08/00 |
Was not the origianl Kolb gear either if I correct based upon the post by him.
>
>Yah, that concerns us directly, doesn't it. But "fall out of the sky" is a
>touchy phrase. Seems to me that all the Kolb problems I've heard about for
>the last 2+ yrs that I've been on the list were due to pilot error, or
>engine stoppage. Does anyone recall an accident caused by a failure of the
>airframe ?? 'Course, John H.'s recent problem comes to mind, but his
>landing gear failed on touch down; wasn't really an airframe failure. I'm
>not jumping you, Robert, but trying to point up what a good airplane we've
>all chosen. Big Lar.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Robert <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com>
>To: ; Kolb-List Digest List
>
>Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 5:07 AM
>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 07/08/00
>
>
>>
>> (...The article starts on page 111.........."If one can
>> trust the BSR (sic) "saves" list, however, parachutes seem to have been a
>> great boon to recreational aviation....Either many recreational airplanes
>> must be very poorly made or maintained, or many of their pilots are very
>> inept...
>> Big Lar.)
>>
>>
>> The real question is how many Kolbs fall out of the sky per year. That
>> would be a very interesting piece of information.
>>
>> Robert Haines
>> SlingShot
>> Saint Louis, MO
>> http://roberthaines.tripod.com
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Hudson" <phudson(at)iwvisp.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax 477 quiz (round 3) |
Hi Gang,
More data on my trouble shooting and lots more questions.
Last time I completely eliminated the fuel delivery as a possible culprit to
my low RPM. The prop pitch and mixtures were then next plan of attack.
Also the main jet was a 185 whereas the "chart" says I need a 150 to 155.
Yesterday I burned through a whole tank of gas, a little at a time, to get
the following results.
I put in the 155 main (and replaced the needle jet with the same size but
new)
4500 RPM max 1125 EGT
4000 RPM 950 egt
3500 RPM 900 egt
Next try 160 main and an 11g2 needle (set full rich)
4500 RPM max 1090 egt
4000 RPM 950 egt
3500 RPM 925 egt
Now my recollection said I was shooting for 1100 EGT and i assumed that was
for the full rpm range. I was still not happy with max RPM even though the
temp was good at full throttle so I went to the prop. It's an Ivo Prop
ground adjustable. Once I figured out which way to turn the adjustment I
turned it in 1.25 turns from the "natural pitch" (where the adjustment shaft
feels free of any load from twisting prop blades). I didn't have a
protractor so I'll give the adjustments in number of turns in for now.
The Max RPM went up a lot but I don't now how much because I throttled back
when the EGT went to 1200 and cht to 410 (I chickened out!)
at 4500 it was 1075 egt
4000 rpm 1050 egt
3500 rpm 1010 egt
Went to the 165 main and 15k2 needle (stock set up) to get the full throttle
temp under control
5200 RPM (max) 1150 egt (425 cht!)
Repitched to 1.75 turns in and put in the 185 main that was in before.
5300 rpm 1125 egt
5000 rpm 1100 egt
4000 rpm 975 egt
Well this is getting long so I'll skip some and show the last setting.
Pitch in 4.5 turns 185 main 15k2 (set rich)
6000 RPM max 1180 egt
5500 rpm 1150 egt
5000 rpm 1100 egt
4500 rpm 1050 egt
4000 rpm 1000 egt
3000 rpm 850 egt
Now this seems close to normal. But I need some help on what normal is...
My CHT was often 425, the CPS book says 325 to 375 is normal but I'm
running tied down to the ground and its 95 degrees out. Is 425 normal?
The CPS book on page 171 says above 1100 egt is too lean (below is too rich)
on page 211 it says above 1200 is lean (and below is rich) (which is it?).
Is my 1180 egt at 6000 rpm good or perilously hot?
Is the fact the temps drop steadily with RPM until they're in the mud at
3000 rpm normal or should I be trying for 1100 (or 1200?) throughout the
range.
Is 6000 RPM a good max RPM static (the book says 6250 RPM at full throttle
but that might mean at climb when the props unloaded)?
Why do I need a 185 main jet to stay below 1200 egt (when the chart says 165
x factors for my 1900 feet elevation and 95 degrees is a 150 -155) Is that
normal? Is my carb so far out of whack?
Well that's a lot of questions and if you've stuck with it so far...Thanks.
It really helps to know you guys are here and I'm not doing this uninformed
or isolated. Thanks for sharing your advice.
-Peter Hudson-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT SENDER UNDER A HEAD BOLT |
>
>Anybody done this?? [R-503 DCDI]. Work PK?
>
>Howard Shackleford
I'll suggest caution about removing and replacing
one head-bolt in an engine with any time on it. Overhaul
procedures on many engines call for specific tightening
sequences to certain torques . . . sometimes followed up
by a retightening after first few hours. These procedures
are generated to avoid passing undue stresses to bolts
that fall (or are driven) outside specific stress
boundries. The removal and replacement of a single bolt
might put this or other bolts outside acceptable boundries
by upsetting a prescribed tightening sequence.
Check with someone who knows the engine VERY WELL before
you do this.
From an instrumentation perspective, a thermocouple
gasket under the spark plug is ALWAYS safe, easy
to repair and will probably read hotter thereby
giving a more useful reading of max CHT.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 532/SuziAir |
Bill,
Was surfing net today & came across this address ( Mailgate.ORG Web Server:
rec.aviation.ultralight) that has several pieces on SuziAir engine & planes
with it for sale. I personally am going with the Raven system. I looked at
both at Sun & Fun. SuziAir had some exagerated statistics & claims in my
opinion. Jeron at Raven, has proven to me to be a man of integrety, he has gone
way out of his way to help me. He is very knowledgeable and has the best method
of dealing with resonance.
...Richard Swiderski
WingManBill2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks Richard for the info, choosing an engine is really the hardest part I
> think of this whole project! I really think I'm getting away from the two
> stroke engine and heading toward the 4 stroke regardless of cost, think i'm
> just gonna bite the bullet and get a auto conversion, really lookin hard at
> the SuziAir right at the moment! Anybody out there using the SuziAir on a
> Kolb Mark III or similar aircraft?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jay" <jdewberry(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 477 quiz (round 3) |
I would suggest, make sure your tach is reading right. Verify it with a Tiny
Tach. I like to keep temps between 1050 and 1100 for all throttle settings
between cruise and WOT. It is normal for the egt to go sky high when you
take prop pitch out. It is not normal to run a 180 jet in a 447! Iwould take
the carb off and tear down-clean all the passages. I would make sure the
intake manifold is sealed good. You need to perform a leak down test to see
if you have air leaks in the case, or anywhere.
Jay TN
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Hudson <phudson(at)iwvisp.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 4:23 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Rotax 477 quiz (round 3)
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> More data on my trouble shooting and lots more questions.
>
> Last time I completely eliminated the fuel delivery as a possible culprit
to
> my low RPM. The prop pitch and mixtures were then next plan of attack.
> Also the main jet was a 185 whereas the "chart" says I need a 150 to 155.
>
> Yesterday I burned through a whole tank of gas, a little at a time, to get
> the following results.
>
> I put in the 155 main (and replaced the needle jet with the same size but
> new)
> 4500 RPM max 1125 EGT
> 4000 RPM 950 egt
> 3500 RPM 900 egt
>
> Next try 160 main and an 11g2 needle (set full rich)
> 4500 RPM max 1090 egt
> 4000 RPM 950 egt
> 3500 RPM 925 egt
>
> Now my recollection said I was shooting for 1100 EGT and i assumed that
was
> for the full rpm range. I was still not happy with max RPM even though the
> temp was good at full throttle so I went to the prop. It's an Ivo Prop
> ground adjustable. Once I figured out which way to turn the adjustment I
> turned it in 1.25 turns from the "natural pitch" (where the adjustment
shaft
> feels free of any load from twisting prop blades). I didn't have a
> protractor so I'll give the adjustments in number of turns in for now.
>
> The Max RPM went up a lot but I don't now how much because I throttled
back
> when the EGT went to 1200 and cht to 410 (I chickened out!)
> at 4500 it was 1075 egt
> 4000 rpm 1050 egt
> 3500 rpm 1010 egt
>
> Went to the 165 main and 15k2 needle (stock set up) to get the full
throttle
> temp under control
> 5200 RPM (max) 1150 egt (425 cht!)
>
> Repitched to 1.75 turns in and put in the 185 main that was in before.
> 5300 rpm 1125 egt
> 5000 rpm 1100 egt
> 4000 rpm 975 egt
>
> Well this is getting long so I'll skip some and show the last setting.
>
> Pitch in 4.5 turns 185 main 15k2 (set rich)
> 6000 RPM max 1180 egt
> 5500 rpm 1150 egt
> 5000 rpm 1100 egt
> 4500 rpm 1050 egt
> 4000 rpm 1000 egt
> 3000 rpm 850 egt
>
> Now this seems close to normal. But I need some help on what normal is...
>
> My CHT was often 425, the CPS book says 325 to 375 is normal but I'm
> running tied down to the ground and its 95 degrees out. Is 425 normal?
>
> The CPS book on page 171 says above 1100 egt is too lean (below is too
rich)
> on page 211 it says above 1200 is lean (and below is rich) (which is
it?).
>
> Is my 1180 egt at 6000 rpm good or perilously hot?
>
> Is the fact the temps drop steadily with RPM until they're in the mud at
> 3000 rpm normal or should I be trying for 1100 (or 1200?) throughout the
> range.
>
> Is 6000 RPM a good max RPM static (the book says 6250 RPM at full throttle
> but that might mean at climb when the props unloaded)?
>
> Why do I need a 185 main jet to stay below 1200 egt (when the chart says
165
> x factors for my 1900 feet elevation and 95 degrees is a 150 -155) Is that
> normal? Is my carb so far out of whack?
>
> Well that's a lot of questions and if you've stuck with it so
far...Thanks.
> It really helps to know you guys are here and I'm not doing this
uninformed
> or isolated. Thanks for sharing your advice.
>
> -Peter Hudson-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 477 quiz (round 3) |
Peter, you are doing good. You are correctly analyzing and learning how
your engine works, and what it takes to make it work.
I love posts like yours, they are genuinely challenging, and really give
the rest of us something to think about.
I will use this as an excuse to stick my neck out and tell you what I think
you ought to do next.
Stick a 190 main jet in it and see what happens.
I am suspecting that you will see a drop in CHT to down around 375-400 degrees.
Your EGT's may drop some at full throttle, but should stay the same from
4500 RPM down, and your present EGT's at 5000 and below are normal, at
least I would be very happy with them.
Bear in mind that the figures that we want for EGT temperatures are very
conservative, and for two reasons: 1.) Our EGT gauges are not the most
accurate things in the world, and 2.) We can't afford to play too close to
the edge. I have seen EGT's over 1400 degrees with no apparent damage, but
unless you are on a high downwind alongside 6,000' of runway, don't do
that. I like to keep my 532 between 1150 and 1200 degrees EGT at cruise,
recommended, so I won't recommend it to you.
If I remember correctly, EGT's vary with ambient air temperature, and CHT's
do not.
Your 6000 RPM static will get you in the ball park, several listers
recommend propping so that the engine hits red line at full throttle in
level flight. I am currently running about 200-300 RPM below that, giving
away a little climb out, but it sure is nice and quiet at cruise.
I am looking at a five year old CPS book, and from the 447
horsepower/torque graph in it, I would want at least 6200 RPM on climb out
for best performance. You are probably going to get that if you are turning
6000 RPM static.
For your last question, why do you need a bigger jet than the book calls
for? Who knows? But what does the spark plug look like?
Whenever possible, cross check the EGT's with a spark plug reading, and see
if the plugs look like what the EGT tells you they should be looking like.
EGT gauges can lie, spark plug readings are harder to fake.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hi Gang,
>
>More data on my trouble shooting and lots more questions.
>
>Last time I completely eliminated the fuel delivery as a possible culprit to
>my low RPM. The prop pitch and mixtures were then next plan of attack.
>Also the main jet was a 185 whereas the "chart" says I need a 150 to 155.
>
>Yesterday I burned through a whole tank of gas, a little at a time, to get
>the following results.
>
>I put in the 155 main (and replaced the needle jet with the same size but
>new)
> 4500 RPM max 1125 EGT
> 4000 RPM 950 egt
> 3500 RPM 900 egt
>
>Next try 160 main and an 11g2 needle (set full rich)
> 4500 RPM max 1090 egt
> 4000 RPM 950 egt
> 3500 RPM 925 egt
>
>Now my recollection said I was shooting for 1100 EGT and i assumed that was
>for the full rpm range. I was still not happy with max RPM even though the
>temp was good at full throttle so I went to the prop. It's an Ivo Prop
>ground adjustable. Once I figured out which way to turn the adjustment I
>turned it in 1.25 turns from the "natural pitch" (where the adjustment shaft
>feels free of any load from twisting prop blades). I didn't have a
>protractor so I'll give the adjustments in number of turns in for now.
>
>The Max RPM went up a lot but I don't now how much because I throttled back
>when the EGT went to 1200 and cht to 410 (I chickened out!)
>at 4500 it was 1075 egt
> 4000 rpm 1050 egt
> 3500 rpm 1010 egt
>
>Went to the 165 main and 15k2 needle (stock set up) to get the full throttle
>temp under control
>5200 RPM (max) 1150 egt (425 cht!)
>
>Repitched to 1.75 turns in and put in the 185 main that was in before.
> 5300 rpm 1125 egt
> 5000 rpm 1100 egt
> 4000 rpm 975 egt
>
>Well this is getting long so I'll skip some and show the last setting.
>
>Pitch in 4.5 turns 185 main 15k2 (set rich)
> 6000 RPM max 1180 egt
> 5500 rpm 1150 egt
> 5000 rpm 1100 egt
> 4500 rpm 1050 egt
> 4000 rpm 1000 egt
> 3000 rpm 850 egt
>
>Now this seems close to normal. But I need some help on what normal is...
>
>My CHT was often 425, the CPS book says 325 to 375 is normal but I'm
>running tied down to the ground and its 95 degrees out. Is 425 normal?
>
>The CPS book on page 171 says above 1100 egt is too lean (below is too rich)
>on page 211 it says above 1200 is lean (and below is rich) (which is it?).
>
>Is my 1180 egt at 6000 rpm good or perilously hot?
>
>Is the fact the temps drop steadily with RPM until they're in the mud at
>3000 rpm normal or should I be trying for 1100 (or 1200?) throughout the
>range.
>
>Is 6000 RPM a good max RPM static (the book says 6250 RPM at full throttle
>but that might mean at climb when the props unloaded)?
>
>Why do I need a 185 main jet to stay below 1200 egt (when the chart says 165
>x factors for my 1900 feet elevation and 95 degrees is a 150 -155) Is that
>normal? Is my carb so far out of whack?
>
>Well that's a lot of questions and if you've stuck with it so far...Thanks.
>It really helps to know you guys are here and I'm not doing this uninformed
>or isolated. Thanks for sharing your advice.
>
>-Peter Hudson-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 07/08/00 |
>Seems to me that all the Kolb problems I've heard about for
>the last 2+ yrs that I've been on the list were due to pilot error, or
>engine stoppage. Does anyone recall an accident caused by a failure of the
>airframe ??
> > The real question is how many Kolbs fall out of the sky per year. That
> > would be a very interesting piece of information.
Catastrophic failures of the airframe can happen even in a Kolb. I never
thought that it would happen to me and thought that I would never need a
BRS. Engine stoppage never really concerned me as I trusted my flying
ability more than I would trust a BRS. My thinking has now changed!
When a muffler mounting bolt came loose and went back through the propeller
of my UltraStar, causing one blade to shatter, the vibration was so severe
as to cause the muffler and carburetor to separate from the engine. A
lesser airframe would have shaken itself apart. The potential catastrophic
failure that never occurred, but very easily could have, was when the
broken prop blade went up into and out the top of the right wing. Two
wing ribs were demolished and a very large hole was torn in the wing. Had
the prop entered the wing only a few inches further aft, it would have
destroyed the aileron and my ability to make a controlled emergency
landing, a landing that required a steep turn from a low altitude.
I know that when I rebuild the UltraStar, I will do two things
differently. One, I will install a BRS, and two, I will install a
composite prop rather than a wood prop. Just like some that say that they
will never make a gear up landing (and then do) there will be some that say
that nothing will ever go back through their prop (and then does).
Lucky Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Variable Transformers (Variacs) and Shop Safety |
>I am moving into that portion of Cozy building which requires the hotwire
>cutting of foam. It's been 20+ years since I've had to worry about a
>suitable power supply for a hotwire saw (note: remember to whom you loan
>tools to). The great extent of my knowledge in regards to such a power
>supply is that, Amps kill and Volts heat:)
>
>So not wanting to hook a light dimmer switch up to the house power supply, I
>decided to start looking for a Variable Transformer(Variac), I have located
>a company (All Electronics Corp) that is selling 2-types of these Variable
>Transformers, URL
>(http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/c
>-Variacs.html?L+scstore+jdcw2965fff8d9f8+963471892). Would you take a look
>at the 2-Variacs listed, and tell me if these are suitable of producing in
>Safety the heat needed for hotwire cutting the Cozy wing and canard parts.
>The Variac that interests me the most is their 5 Amp Variable (Input: 110
>Vac. Output: 0 - 130 Vac) Transformer (#SC-5M). I am also open to
>suggestions and other possibilities, but with my children assisting me in
>plane building I am not comfortable with the practice of plugging an
>non-insulated dimmer switch into an outlet and the other end attached to a
>hot wire.
>
>Could someone please shad some light on this problem:
Variacs (an acronym trade name derived from "VARIable AC") are very
handy devices for generating a source of adjustable AC voltage in
the shop. They can adjust the speed of motor driven power tools,
vary the output from small heaters, -AND- many builders have reported
success with using VARIACs to control the power to a hot-wire foam
cutter.
By-in-large, used with understanding and some caution, these critters
can be most useful. However, be aware that these are not isolation
transformers . . . they have but one winding and operate as sort of
an AC potentiometer. Just because the "OUTPUT" is a few, seemingly
non-hazardous volts, there are ways they can be mis-wired such that
terminal output voltages with respect to earth ground is equal to
your 115 vac line voltage. Take a peek at a wiring diagrams I've
just uploaded to:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/variac.pdf
Most VARIACs come already enclosed and internally wired
at the factory. However, there are lots of surplus components for
sale out there that require the user to mount them in an enclosure
and/or wire them up . . . It's not difficult to wire these guys
up so that they do not present a hazard for driving your hot-wire
cutters or other exposed conductor applications. Further, its
always a good idea to operate your shop's wall outlets from a
ground fault interrupter . . . they are really inexpensive. One
GFI can be wired to supply all of the miscelaneous outlets in your
shop.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WingManBill2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 532/SuziAir |
Does Raven have a handle on mounting their engine to the Kolb Mark III?
Would be nice to have a bolt on engine, without having to fabricate things!
I'd like to hear more bout what you found with the Raven that you didn't like
with the SuziAir!
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 477 quiz (round 3) |
Peter,
Both those guages are relative to 70 or 75 degrees, I forget which. This
means that your correct temperatures are 20 - 25 degrees hotter at 95 than the
guages show. Watch out!
Further, it is my opinion that an Rotax that requires that much more jet
than stock, has something wrong with it. I would try a different carb to be
able to rule that out. If it is not the carb, it is probably the engine. An
intake leak would be a likely problem. It could be as simple as the pulse line
not being tight, or it could be crank seals.
Have you checked that the guages/senders are accurate?
One more suggestion: Don't fly with it until you solve it.
Good luck.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 532/SuziAir |
In a message dated 7/9/00 5:02:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
WingManBill2(at)aol.com writes:
<< Does Raven have a handle on mounting their engine to the Kolb Mark III?
Would be nice to have a bolt on engine, without having to fabricate things!
>>
Raven sent me a picture of his package mounted to a Mk III.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | looking for for abs plastic that sky sports sells |
I cannot locate the abs black crinkle plastic that skt
sports sells for $5.00 a square ft. someone mentioned that
they had it, but upon looking in their catalog and calling
them they told me they do not sell any such thing, did I get
a new rep or does someone have a part #.
I should be getting my first flight my kolb in about 6
to 8 weeks. can't wait.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 17:46:37 -0500
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: (no subject)
Jerry, I have a catalog from skysports and I cannot locate the "abs"
plastic that you are talking about, I even called them and they told me they do
not sell anything like that. do you have a part # you could give me.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
952-474-3540
jerryb wrote:
>
> Sorry I got in late on this. If your going to the trouble of making a
> subpanel you might consider making it out of the instrument plastic Sky
> Sports sells. The stuff cost about $5 SQ. FT. It is ABS plastic about
> 1/8" thick, has wrinkle finish on one side and smooth on the other. Very
> easy to work with and looks GREAT. I did this on our FireFly it has worked
> out great.
>
>
> >
> > Gang, thanks for all the good ideas, if I used them all I never
> >would get this fs completed.
> >I plan not to cut the original panel out at this time, (I wanna fly) my
> >question is; should I cut out the .050 aluminum and fs panel for my
> >gauges first then paint, or do I paint the aluminum with black wrinkle
> >paint then bond it to the fs panel then cut thru everything at once.
> >your information is greatly appreciated. I will send some pics whenI
> >get a chance.
> >
> > thanks,
> > Gary r. voigt
> >
> >
> >John Hauck wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> > Flat black works, but I did mine in black wrinkle paint,
> >> > it looks nice, and hides cosmetic imperfections pretty well.
> >> > There are several companies that you can buy very fancy
> >> > wood veneers from also,
> >> > kind of whatever rows ur boat.
> >> > Richard Pike
> >> >
> >>
> >> Richardo and Gang:
> >>
> >> I did mine just like Richard. Wrinkle paint on .050 alum
> >> sheet. Get wrinkle paint at most auto parts stores. Lay it
> >> on thick and use a hair dryer to dry it. It was fun
> >> watching the stuff start to wrinkle. Mines been on there 8
> >> years and still looks purty good.
> >>
> >> john h
> >>
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III 912 Installation |
Ray---was in Grand Ridge Florida this morning--Glen Rinck's place --he is
building a new challenger for a club member--He just finished building
Air-Cam-w/2 912's--flew it about 4 hours to assure everything was OK--his
policy is to fly at least 10 hours before he turns plane over to owner--new
owner insisted--he wanted to go to a fly-in with his new bird---problem
developed--could not shut down(1)912---finally got a pair of vice grips and
pinched fuel line--temp about 220F---no damage-max 260F If my memory serves
me correctly.
Two (2) separate systems-by design--but more than obvious ground wire at
switch--or wire on engine the problem--just passing on info to u and other
912 owners--may or may not happen --but if it does you know the solution to
the problem.Minor if handled correctly!
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Test Message |
----- Original Message -----
From: Lindy
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 8:40 PM
Subject: Test Message
Can reply to sender on list but every posting-new message in last
week-rejected--reason bad address-Checked everything ----nothing seems to be
wrong--will watch list to see if this message is posted.
Rejected messages were pictures showing 582 split radiator Mod--moved to
front of engine---also digital pictures of instrument
panel--takeoff-climboutout cruise--purpose was to show test results to
others flying the 582 in hot high temp area's what could be done to lower
water temp-cylinder head temp.
Not trying to impress anyone on list but went through the 7 PSI radiator
cap-seal leaking problems-and since mod--have not had any problems.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey Lar: You still got a ride in L. A, (lower Arkansas) If you you ever get
this far east
RH MK3 912
Vacation Plans - Prepare
DO NOT ACHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mark III 912 Installation |
RAY: The washers are to get the thrust line correct, which is still a
matter of question, however when I built my MKIII Dan at the old Kolb said
the front of the engine needed to be 3/4" inch higher than the back,that's
where mine is.. But some (J Haulk for one) say the prop arc should be
perpendicular to the trailing edge of the wing.
Having said that I think you should have good air flow over the tail.. Mine
works great..
RH MK3 #233
N 912RH
Mark III 912 Installation
have a number of
> (3 or more) washers between the aluminum angle mounts and the lord
> mounts. Some have more fore than aft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Test Message |
Lindy, I don't think you can post pics on the list, all of those messages
will be rejected, However everything else you wrote has been posted.
RH MK3 912
N912RH
rharris@magnolia-net.com
DO NOT ACHIEVE
> Subject: Test Message
> Can reply to sender on list but every posting-new message in last
> week-rejected
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
> But maybe a ceramic coating
> on the piston dome would be helpful?
> Comments?
It would, and is. The idea is to keep the heat above the piston
where it does useful work and not radiating into the crown. As an
insulator, ceramic would be a nice choice. An even better choice is
the carbon-carbon matrix piston that will allow temperatures up to
2300F, vice the paltry 8-900 F limits of the current aluminum plugs.
Additionally C-C conducts heat much like shuttle tiles.....i.e. it
doesn't. Several experimental pistons have been made and used
successfully but are frightfully expensive. I believe AMW has a
couple of engines running well with them.
J.Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | 2-Stroke Jetting, Sparkplugs |
Spent the afternoon making an addition to the web page.
Added some basic concepts of jetting, CHT's EGT's, and how they are
affected by prop loads.
Also added some pictures of good and bad spark plugs, what to look for,
what to avoid.
I realize that generalized jetting of 2-strokes and spark plugs is not
totally Kolb specific (although I can't understand why anybody would want
to fly some other brand...), but maybe it will be of use to somebody.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg11.htm
[DEFAULT]
BASEURL=http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg11.htm
[InternetShortcut]
URL=http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg11.htm
Modified=E005D4D91FEABF015B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 532/SuziAir |
Bill,
Yes, Raven has a bolt on engine mount built specifically for kolbs! Check
out their website at http://www.raven-rotor.com The most significant
thing that Raven has that I feel SuziAir doesn't have is a robust reduction
drive. SuziAir uses a gear box used on a 65hp 2-stroke engine. A 4-stroke
delivers all of its power in one 1/2 the strokes of an equivilent hp 2-stroke.
Therefore, a 4-stroke hits much harder. That is why you don't see composite
props on direct drive engines...they break where wood can absorb the increased
shock. I would want to see a 130hp 2-stroke gear box on a 65hp 4-stroke, plus
gears don't absorb shock like a belt can, SuziAir does have a dampner but it is
after the gears. Besides the belt, Raven has a dampner as well. I think it is
all around more professionally designed. ...Richard Swiderski
WingManBill2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Does Raven have a handle on mounting their engine to the Kolb Mark III?
> Would be nice to have a bolt on engine, without having to fabricate things!
> I'd like to hear more bout what you found with the Raven that you didn't like
> with the SuziAir!
>
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PAUL JOHNSON" <pjsquar(at)goodnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The UNDULATING Kolb (The Mystry[at least to me]) |
To all those Kolb flyer, builders and otherwise enthusiast I have a mystery
for you.
BACKGROUND: In 1991 I bought a Kolb "Twinstar Mark II", it was totally as
it came from Homer around 1990. To make a long story shorter I did a
beautiful job of building and had its first flight Nov. 1998.
EQUIPMENT; Not being one to build just the minimum airplane and somewhat
out of need (the airport is 5000' altitude), I added a few things not per
original plan I deemed necessary. I made absolutely no structural changes,
however I included and ELT, a battery in the nose cone so I would have power
even with and engine out, a floor board out of .050 al, and electrical
system of course, Matco heal breaks. Instrument panel consist of and EIS
engine monitor, Rocky Mnt. encoder (provides lots of air data information),
standard alt. a std. airspeed indicator, hard mounted hand held xceiver and
strobes.
ENGINE: Partly because of my altitude (5000') and partly because it was
available I employed a Rotax 583 engine (note I said a 583). (For those who
may not know, a 583 is virtually identical to a 582 except it has the "RAVE"
(variable exhaust port geometry system), it has Micuni carburetors and a
Ducoti CDI. The perported disadvantage to the 583 is it dose not have "dual
ignition") It dose and has performed very well using an 3 bladed IVO ground
adjustable prop. Empty weight is 410#.
During flight test, with elevator trim fully applied I still had to hold a
substantial back pressure on the stick to fly level. Solution: Adjust the
horizontal stabilizer 1/2 inch up, I had seen it done on some Kolbs at
Oshkosh and checked with Kolb on the idea, they said OK. I incorporated the
change and it worked, fly hands off. Resumed flight test, gradually added
weight to work it up to gross weight. This is when I began to notice my
problem.
The condition did not demonstrate itself before I altered the horizontal
stabilizer even with weight, it had just became increasingly uncomfortable
holding up elevator. After the stabilizer change, with weight 90# I
experienced and "undulation motion". At first I thought is was some kind of
flutter but the stick was not being effected, it felt like the entire tail
epenage was oscillating up and down at a rate of about 1 cycle per second
and it felt like the fuselage was the pivot point. At higher speeds, 65mph
it would start, and usually stop when I reduced power, although in one turn
to final it seemed for a moment it would not stop.
I am at my wits end to try to figure out what is going on, called the
factory, they had no suggestions, I built the bird precisely to drawing and
manual instructions, had it looked at many times by during the build by EAA
designees so I feel nothing is a mis with the build.
So, I turn to you gentlemen, with all your accumulative knowledge and
experience, got any ideas?
Thanking you in advance, Paul Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The UNDULATING Kolb (The Mystry[at least to me]) |
Paul,
My only guess is an aft CG. Did your CG come out within limits? I hope that
you checked it after making all those changes.
John Jung
PAUL JOHNSON wrote:
>
> To all those Kolb flyer, builders and otherwise enthusiast I have a mystery
> for you.
snip......
> After the stabilizer change, with weight 90# I
> experienced and "undulation motion". At first I thought is was some kind of
> flutter but the stick was not being effected, it felt like the entire tail
> epenage was oscillating up and down at a rate of about 1 cycle per second
> and it felt like the fuselage was the pivot point. At higher speeds, 65mph
> it would start, and usually stop when I reduced power, although in one turn
> to final it seemed for a moment it would not stop.
snip....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The UNDULATING Kolb (The Mystry[at least to me]) |
First thing that enters my mind is that you say you had to hold BACK stick
to hold it straight. That tells me you're holding "Up Elevator," which I
would think means the plane is nose heavy, or out of rig to act nose heavy.
Then, as I understand you, you moved the horizontal stabilizer 1/2" up,
which I take to mean you moved the leading edge of the horiz stab. up. To
my thinking, you should've moved the leading edge of the horiz stab. DOWN,
to help balance the heavy nose. Moving the leading edge of the horiz stab
down would have the same effect as holding back stick, ( up elevator ) or
removing weight from the nose. Our planes are supposed to have fwd CG,
which means the tail is designed to push Down. Sounds to me like you need
more downward push at the tail. One other slight possibility may be loose
wires, bolts, or rivets somewhere on your empennage, which might let things
"flap" back there. Possibly a control wire hookup, or stabilizer mounting
bracket could be flexing as well. If so, I think you'd be in real danger
from metal fatigue. Big Lar.
P.S. It just hit me - Undulating ?? Like Flexing ?? Are you REAL sure
your tail boom is Solidly Mounted ?? If rivets are sheared, or mounting
bolt holes enlarged, the whole tail boom could "walk" in the frame. That's
Spooky. Boy, I've got an imagination, eh ?? Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: PAUL JOHNSON <pjsquar(at)goodnet.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 10:33 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: The UNDULATING Kolb (The Mystry[at least to me])
>
> To all those Kolb flyer, builders and otherwise enthusiast I have a
mystery
> for you.
> BACKGROUND: In 1991 I bought a Kolb "Twinstar Mark II", it was totally
as
> it came from Homer around 1990. To make a long story shorter I did a
> beautiful job of building and had its first flight Nov. 1998.
> EQUIPMENT; Not being one to build just the minimum airplane and somewhat
> out of need (the airport is 5000' altitude), I added a few things not per
> original plan I deemed necessary. I made absolutely no structural
changes,
> however I included and ELT, a battery in the nose cone so I would have
power
> even with and engine out, a floor board out of .050 al, and electrical
> system of course, Matco heal breaks. Instrument panel consist of and EIS
> engine monitor, Rocky Mnt. encoder (provides lots of air data
information),
> standard alt. a std. airspeed indicator, hard mounted hand held xceiver
and
> strobes.
> ENGINE: Partly because of my altitude (5000') and partly because it was
> available I employed a Rotax 583 engine (note I said a 583). (For those
who
> may not know, a 583 is virtually identical to a 582 except it has the
"RAVE"
> (variable exhaust port geometry system), it has Micuni carburetors and a
> Ducoti CDI. The perported disadvantage to the 583 is it dose not have
"dual
> ignition") It dose and has performed very well using an 3 bladed IVO
ground
> adjustable prop. Empty weight is 410#.
>
> During flight test, with elevator trim fully applied I still had to hold a
> substantial back pressure on the stick to fly level. Solution: Adjust
the
> horizontal stabilizer 1/2 inch up, I had seen it done on some Kolbs at
> Oshkosh and checked with Kolb on the idea, they said OK. I incorporated
the
> change and it worked, fly hands off. Resumed flight test, gradually added
> weight to work it up to gross weight. This is when I began to notice my
> problem.
>
> The condition did not demonstrate itself before I altered the horizontal
> stabilizer even with weight, it had just became increasingly uncomfortable
> holding up elevator. After the stabilizer change, with weight 90# I
> experienced and "undulation motion". At first I thought is was some kind
of
> flutter but the stick was not being effected, it felt like the entire tail
> epenage was oscillating up and down at a rate of about 1 cycle per second
> and it felt like the fuselage was the pivot point. At higher speeds,
65mph
> it would start, and usually stop when I reduced power, although in one
turn
> to final it seemed for a moment it would not stop.
>
> I am at my wits end to try to figure out what is going on, called the
> factory, they had no suggestions, I built the bird precisely to drawing
and
> manual instructions, had it looked at many times by during the build by
EAA
> designees so I feel nothing is a mis with the build.
>
> So, I turn to you gentlemen, with all your accumulative knowledge and
> experience, got any ideas?
>
> Thanking you in advance, Paul Johnson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cjcullen" <cjcullen(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 07/08/00 |
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
> Yah, that concerns us directly, doesn't it. But "fall out of the sky" is
a
> touchy phrase. Seems to me that all the Kolb problems I've heard about
for
> the last 2+ yrs that I've been on the list were due to pilot error, or
> engine stoppage. Does anyone recall an accident caused by a failure of
the
> airframe ??
I recall hearing about one 10 yr old Kolb that had an airframe failure due
to corrosion.
The 2 passengers might have lived but the ballistic chute was apparently not
installed correctly.
It would have taken 100 lbs. of force to pull the red handle and fire the
chute.
I am trying to figure out how to verify this. Maybe tnkolb knows.
If you get your frame powder coated then that will proably take care of
any problem you might have with corrosion.
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Server glitch - lost orders |
We're finding that some orders placed with us approx 7-10 days
ago slid off the edge of the world. With few exceptions, every
order in hand has been shipped and acknowledged by e-mail.
If anyone has an order pending with us for which you HAVE NOT
received an acknowledgment showing a ship date, please drop
us a note.
Thanks!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The UNDULATING Kolb (The Mystry[at least to me]) |
"undulation motion". At first I thought is was some kind of
>flutter but the stick was not being effected, it felt like the entire tail
>epenage was oscillating up and down at a rate of about 1 cycle per second
>and it felt like the fuselage was the pivot point.
Hey Gang,
That is scary ain't it? Well, I had the exact thing happen to my Ferguson.
That scared the #!%&* out of me :-) I wasn't real sure I wanted to fly it
again. Bill at Ferguson didn't know either. I put on aileron counter weights
thinking that the occilation could be induced by aileron flutter and that
didn't help. I was grasping at straws. I took them off. Then I started
checking the incident of the tail feathers with the main wing by looking
from the back to the front. I found everything was close but not perfect. I
realined all the surfaces. It had several hundred hours on it since I had
built it and the brace cables had gotten a little loose. After I snugged up
the brace cables, the control stick cables t the elevator and had the tail
feathers in line again,and eventually I took it up to 100 MPH without any
adverse effect. It felt solid as a rock. It still flys perfect today but I
keep an eye on those brace cables, especially during preflight.
What I discovered was that when the brace cables got loose the tail
feathers could be induced to cause the tailboom occilation and unless I
reduced speed it would just get worse real quick. They were just flapping in
the wind like a bird's wing. At the time all I had to do was give the stick
a quick jerk forwards and back if I was flying below 70 MPH and the
occilation would start. It was easier at higher speeds. It would start all
by itself around 75-80 MPH. I have over 400 hours on it since then and it
has never occured again.
I have talked to other MKIII owners that have had this same problem with
the same solution. I hope this solves yours.
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alice and Robert Berrie <rberrie(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | 582 Engine for sale |
Anybody interested in a Rotax 582, C box, 3:1, 151 hours, perfect
condition, with electric start and after muffler. All cables are
included.
It has been run on silicate free antifreeze and Pensoil. Let me know.
I'll let it go for $3995, you pay shipping charges from Connecticut.
E-mail me here or at work, Todd.Thompson(at)dsl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The UNDULATING Kolb (The Mystry[at least to me]) |
>During flight test, with elevator trim fully applied I still had to hold a
>substantial back pressure on the stick to fly level. Solution: Adjust the
>horizontal stabilizer 1/2 inch up, I had seen it done on some Kolbs at
>Oshkosh and checked with Kolb on the idea, they said OK. I incorporated
the
>change and it worked, fly hands off. Resumed flight test, gradually added
>weight to work it up to gross weight. This is when I began to notice my
>problem.
>
>The condition did not demonstrate itself before I altered the horizontal
>stabilizer even with weight, it had just became increasingly uncomfortable
>holding up elevator. After the stabilizer change, with weight 90# I
>experienced and "undulation motion". At first I thought is was some kind
of
>flutter but the stick was not being effected, it felt like the entire tail
>epenage was oscillating up and down at a rate of about 1 cycle per second
>and it felt like the fuselage was the pivot point. At higher speeds, 65mph
>it would start, and usually stop when I reduced power, although in one turn
>to final it seemed for a moment it would not stop.
This could be a stall of the elevator. I agree with Larry that you seam to
have moved the stabilizer the wrong way from your descriptions but you say
it flies hands off now. If the elevator is at a large deflection angle then
is might be stalling and unstalling. You dont want tail deflections to
exceed around 30 degrees. you can check that easily. make sure the rigging
cables on the tail are tight, as well as the control cables. grab the tail,
pick it up and wiggle the plane. it should feel like a single piece, not
mushy and wobbly. check your aileron and flap trim. if they are not
trailing straight behind the plane then you need to fix that before you set
the tail incidence.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Test Message |
For R Harris
Thanks for Info--sent pictures -digital - as an attachment --to save space.
Thanks for the reply. Fully realize that for every 1000 suggestions to
improve aviation only 1 adopted---gained a lot of experience installing and
testing new HKS 700E -the 1st one in a pusher configuration.Trying to keep
it cool.
Moved spilt radiators from rear to front--of 582---definitely a major
improvement--only trying to pass the info on to help some other Kolbers I
know are having problems keeping the 582 cool in the high heat and
humidity-worst conditions in 100 years here in the deep South.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The UNDULATING Kolb (The Mystry[at least to me]) |
In a message dated 7/9/00 10:33:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
pjsquar(at)goodnet.com writes:
<< So, I turn to you gentlemen, with all your accumulative knowledge and
experience, got any ideas? >>
Paul:
I suspect that my comments will not be particularly helpful.
First, the Mark 2 was never designed to accept anything bigger than a
503. A 583, not the 582, as I recall has upwards of 90 horses. I put 135
hours on a mark 2 and spoke with Dennis Souder once about the possibility of
putting a 582 on the plane. He was emphatic that I should do no such thing.
Second, the 583 is a SCARY engine. There is reason why Rotax will not
sell them to folks with airplanes. A friend of mine built a tricked up Titan
for full out aerobatics and used a 583. His vertical penetration was
outstanding and he actually used the plane for competition. Predictably, he
threw a rod someplace over Connecticut and spent 8 weeks in a clamshell brace
after the crash.
Third, don't need all that power. My father, who weighs well over 200
lbs, and I flew the mark 2 with a 503 with full fuel and well over the 750
gross weight limit set by homer on hot days and got out of short grass field
very well. With one guy the plane is a rocket.
You don't need that scary engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Evening Flight |
P.S. Making a 30 mile lone eagle cross-country really helps to make me
appreciate the long haulers like Jon H., Mike Highsmith et. al. If Kolb is
still taking Hauck's trip contributions I'm calling one in today.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, Florida, FireFly, 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Layout |
My Firestar panel is quite full and contains a 2" Dual EGT; Dual CHT and
Tach-Hour Meter along with 3.5" Altimeter and Airspeed. Old GA Pilots seem
to think they have to have all that stuff or the plane won't fly.
I made the panel from 1/8" plywood - the kind you get at RC model airplane
shops - and I mounted the plywood panel on 4.5" extension so I could
reach/read it. The plywood is very strong, easy to work with and is cheap.
I used Corel Draw to lay out my panel. This made it easy to move everything
around to get everything to fit. I made the drawing full size and then
used the printout as a template. If anyone wants a photo of then finished
panel e-mail me directly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
Once again this is a non-Kolb specific flying story...delete now if you are
a strict Kolb-lister...
My father was a Army OV-1D "Mohawk" pilot in the late 60's-70's , was
stationed in Fort Sheridan , Il. Fellow 'hawk pilot there had a Piper Super
Cub as a personal "kick up his heels plane" Well fellow decided to make a
little side money spraying crops for local farmers and mounted a tank in the
back seat area of the Super Cub. Was spraying a guys field and landing on
the county road parallel to the field to refill the tank in the back. After
doing this for several hours and nearly done he made his standard approach
to the road by flying a base leg across the end of the field with a 90
degree turn to final on the county road. (Note here that the landing
attitude visibility in a Cub of any kind is not quite as "Wide Open" as a
KOLB. Hey I did work Kolbs into this story!!!) Anyway the fellow kept
coming down to touchdown looking out the side window like you do in a
taildragger of that configuration when he made a touchdown that was
"interesting" too say the least....He plopped the main gear down in the bed
of a unsuspecting pickup truck that happen to be coming down the road at the
WRONG time!!! The "club" of a prop that the Super Cub swings ripped through
the roof of the truck right in front of the steering wheel , right behind
the top edge of the windshield. Needless to say that got the drivers
attention who immediately applied aggressive braking and came to a
screeching halt. Short ending was this ,no one hurt ,1 completely ripped
up truck cab, slightly damaged Super Cub with trashed engine prop and VERY
SURPRISED pilot!!! After the police wrote up the accident and all
statements were taken the driver of the truck told police that he had been
driving along leaning over the steering wheel for miles and had just leaned
back to straighten up his back when the unsuspecting Cub pilot dropped in
for a visit!!! You can insert you're own explanation for that part
yourself... Ever heard the old saying , "The Lord looks after drunks and
fools." ??? Don't know if these guys here were either of those 2
categories , but.....
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
I have heard of guys wrapping a piece of alum. around the boom tube were the
propeller arc would hit the tube if it was to sling a blade for protection
but more practically to provide a good solid place on the boom that you
could step up on to get to the engine. Has anyone on the list done this
and/or not done this and why??? I'm fishing for opinions here. My thought
is to just get a 12-14 inch piece of 6" boom tube (drop from TNK) and split
it down the bottom and pull it apart enough to slide it over the boom before
I insert it in the cage for the last time. Does anyone out there step on
the boom anyway without something there to stiffen it up??? Ever cause
problems??? I saw John Hauck step up on the boom of the TNK's slingshot
last Oct. at their fly-in and Mrs. P'fer even has grip tape were he steps up
on the tube there. I do remember he stepped out of his shoes before he
did...might have been worried about paint scratching for all I know....
"Curious" Jeremy
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
>I have heard of guys wrapping a piece of alum. around the boom tube were
>the
>propeller arc would hit the tube if it was to sling a blade for protection
>
>
>"Curious" Jeremy
>jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
Hey Jeremy and Kolbers,
John told me that the none skid was boo boo tape. You know from when you
drop that slippery wrinch or screw driver and it always hits the boom tube
right below the prop? Uh oh, a boo boo. I have none skid on mine and I step
on it quiet often. I don't think my weight will ever cause a problem to the
boom tube just below the engine. I know that because I saw a 300# woman sit
on my boom tube just in front of the vertical stabilizer down at SNF. It
buried the tail wheel in the ground but it didn't hurt the boom tube.
Needless to say I was too far away to say anything to her or the so called
security gaurd that was standing by my plane who didn't say anything to her
either. No matter what you do, evenually you will drop that first tool or
part and then you will know what the none skid tape is really for.
Is it hot up there yet? 99 degrees and feels like 110 down here.
Firehawk.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
Hello kolbers and john deere fans, I,am near completion on my fs and what
I
plan to do for a step is spray a small oval area of "rino liner" on the upper
half of the boom tube near the prop. this stuff comes in a can and you just spray
it on, the application is for pick-up truck beds, but will stick to just about
anything, and talk about durable, wow!!! put it on any thickness you want. I have
no experience at the following but can only visalize. If you split lets say a 6"
diameter piece of aluminum about 12" to 14" long and it has a wall of .030 -
.060" and you try and spread it around the boom won't it kink at the lower half.
just a thought and I can only visalize this happening.
jack of all trades & master of none!!!!!
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
michael highsmith wrote:
>
> >I have heard of guys wrapping a piece of alum. around the boom tube were
> >the
> >propeller arc would hit the tube if it was to sling a blade for protection
> >
> >
> >"Curious" Jeremy
> >jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
> >
>
> Hey Jeremy and Kolbers,
> John told me that the none skid was boo boo tape. You know from when you
> drop that slippery wrinch or screw driver and it always hits the boom tube
> right below the prop? Uh oh, a boo boo. I have none skid on mine and I step
> on it quiet often. I don't think my weight will ever cause a problem to the
> boom tube just below the engine. I know that because I saw a 300# woman sit
> on my boom tube just in front of the vertical stabilizer down at SNF. It
> buried the tail wheel in the ground but it didn't hurt the boom tube.
> Needless to say I was too far away to say anything to her or the so called
> security gaurd that was standing by my plane who didn't say anything to her
> either. No matter what you do, evenually you will drop that first tool or
> part and then you will know what the none skid tape is really for.
> Is it hot up there yet? 99 degrees and feels like 110 down here.
> Firehawk.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Recovery of Miss P'fer |
Hey Gang:
Am trying to get ready to depart for Muncho Lake in the
morning to recover Miss P'fer and the rest of my gear. Nell
is going with me. She jumps at a chance to get up into BC
and northern Canada. Will probably take 7 to 8 days to
drive up.
I have been reading the mail when I can, but have not taken
time to respond to some good questions.
I see no reason to reinforce the boom tube in the area of
the prop. I had a prop strike when a GSC wooden blade came
loose and collected the other two blades on the tail boom.
Severe dent that knocked the tailboom out of column a few
degrees, but no problem in coming apart. The tailboom has a
hefty aluminum or 4130 steel "H" brace in that area.
I have been standing on tailbooms since Firestar days. How
else to get up there to do the things that need to be done
on the engine? When I built the MK III I put some non-skid
tape, can buy from the aircraft parts folks in 12 inch wide
sheets in lengths as long as you want it. One sheet, self
adhesive, has lasted for many hours. Never had to replace
unless I had to replace the tailboom. :-) I put decals
(stickers) on fabric to cover up holes. Quick fix for that
kind of boo boo. Much faster than patches, dope and paint.
Loose tailwires will cause a lot of problems. The new tail
section/elevator folding device is condusive to loose
wires. The piano hinges take all the thrust/side load from
the wires. The hinges wear a little and the wires are
loose. I put some nylon thrust washers on the boom tube to
carry this load and it works. Also put a turnbuckle on each
wire to aid and speed up the fitting and tightening
procedure. Much easier and convenient than fixed wires.
Down side is I can not fold the tail section unless I remove
the nylon blocks. :-(
Ya'll take care of each other while I am gone. Be thinking
about you all and of the Kolb Flyin in September. Make
plans to attend.
Take care and fly safe.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 07/09/00 |
I have read a great number of ideas about engines, especially Rotax and I
wonder if anyone would like to expound on the difference in Rotax and
aircraft engines like
Continental or Lycoming??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Hudson" <phudson(at)iwvisp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2-Stroke Jetting, Sparkplugs |
Very nice Richard,
I especially like the plug pix...I've seen them a lot of times but only in
dodgy reproductions so it's good to see some digitals.
I talked to the CPS tech support line and he seemed not at all surprised at
my 185 main (in my unhappy 477 quiz) and suggested a 190 or 195. Then he
added "or somethings wrong with the fuel supply, crankcase, seals or
something else" .
I'd like to run a pressure leak test...Is there a spec on doing it? any
tips?
Question?...could the fact I'm at about 10% humidity be what's driving the
need for the BIG jets.
(less moisture = more air= needs more fuel AND low humidity = less cooling
from the air=needs more fuel to stay cool) Any other desert dwellers out
there know how the "dry heat" changes the "normal" readings.
One more question...The service manual says 300 hours and it's total
overhaul time. Does anyone follow that? or is that just Rotax's way of
saying ca-ching. (I'm at about 280 so I'll be looking for a service center
close to Mojave pretty soon).
Subject: Kolb-List: 2-Stroke Jetting, Sparkplugs
>
>
> Spent the afternoon making an addition to the web page.
> Added some basic concepts of jetting, CHT's EGT's, and how they are
> affected by prop loads.
> Also added some pictures of good and bad spark plugs, what to look for,
> what to avoid.
> I realize that generalized jetting of 2-strokes and spark plugs is not
> totally Kolb specific (although I can't understand why anybody would want
> to fly some other brand...), but maybe it will be of use to somebody.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg11.htm
>
> [DEFAULT]
> BASEURL=http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg11.htm
>
> [InternetShortcut]
> URL=http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg11.htm
> Modified=E005D4D91FEABF015B
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 2-Stroke Jetting, Sparkplugs |
CPS sells a crankcase pressure/vacuum tester, it works very well. I forget
the specs, but I think it should hold 5 pounds of pressure/vacuum for 30
seconds. I can't go read the sheet that comes with it because it's loaned out.
That figure is a bona fide wag, but it will get you in the ballpark.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Very nice Richard,
>
>I especially like the plug pix...I've seen them a lot of times but only in
>dodgy reproductions so it's good to see some digitals.
>
>I talked to the CPS tech support line and he seemed not at all surprised at
>my 185 main (in my unhappy 477 quiz) and suggested a 190 or 195. Then he
>added "or somethings wrong with the fuel supply, crankcase, seals or
>something else" .
>
>I'd like to run a pressure leak test...Is there a spec on doing it? any
>tips?
>
>Question?...could the fact I'm at about 10% humidity be what's driving the
>need for the BIG jets.
>(less moisture = more air= needs more fuel AND low humidity = less cooling
>from the air=needs more fuel to stay cool) Any other desert dwellers out
>there know how the "dry heat" changes the "normal" readings.
>
>One more question...The service manual says 300 hours and it's total
>overhaul time. Does anyone follow that? or is that just Rotax's way of
>saying ca-ching. (I'm at about 280 so I'll be looking for a service center
>close to Mojave pretty soon).
>
>
>Subject: Kolb-List: 2-Stroke Jetting, Sparkplugs
>
>
>>
>>
>> Spent the afternoon making an addition to the web page.
>> Added some basic concepts of jetting, CHT's EGT's, and how they are
>> affected by prop loads.
>> Also added some pictures of good and bad spark plugs, what to look for,
>> what to avoid.
>> I realize that generalized jetting of 2-strokes and spark plugs is not
>> totally Kolb specific (although I can't understand why anybody would want
>> to fly some other brand...), but maybe it will be of use to somebody.
>> Richard Pike
>> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>>
>>
>> http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg11.htm
>>
>> [DEFAULT]
>> BASEURL=http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg11.htm
>>
>> [InternetShortcut]
>> URL=http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg11.htm
>> Modified=E005D4D91FEABF015B
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Recovery of Miss P'fer |
John H---send money--Good Luck!!!
Lindy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2-Stroke Jetting, Sparkplugs |
----------
> From: Peter Hudson <phudson(at)iwvisp.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2-Stroke Jetting, Sparkplugs
> Date: Monday, July 10, 2000 8:14 PM
>
>>
> I talked to the CPS tech support line and he seemed not at all surprised
at
> my 185 main (in my unhappy 477 quiz) and suggested a 190 or 195. Then he
> added "or somethings wrong with the fuel supply, crankcase, seals or
> something else" .
>
> I'd like to run a pressure leak test...Is there a spec on doing it? any
> tips?
>
> Question?...could the fact I'm at about 10% humidity be what's driving
the
> need for the BIG jets.
> (less moisture = more air= needs more fuel AND low humidity = less
cooling
> from the air=needs more fuel to stay cool) Any other desert dwellers out
> there know how the "dry heat" changes the "normal" readings.
Here is one for you concerning jetting, (and failing memory.) About 5
hours ago I noticed that my EGTs were getting a bit low. I checked my main
jet, which was 145. That was also the leanest one that I have. Before you
get too exicited I am running a "silencer" on the intake, that means that
you need to lower your main jet by about 10, thus 145. I am also at 4500
feet ground level, another reduction in jet for that. (Chart for jetting
suggested 155 for my altitude) Anyway I am standing on my STEPLADDER trying
to get all the springs and other stuff inside the carb put into all the
right holes and as usual my fingers get tired and my grip is slipping, so
my buddy put it together for me. I was rather surprised to find that there
was no change, still in the 1000 degree range. I made a couple of short
flights and was surprised to note that I seemed to be burning more gas than
I thought I should. I shrugged and kept on flying. It seemed to be a bit
"doggy". Sat. I decided that I needed to change the setting on the needle
to get the temps up a bit more. I took it apart and it didn't look right to
me. Looked in the Rotax book and what do you know, the needle is on top of
the plastic cup instead of the bottom where it is supposed to be. Took it
for a flight and other than better gas consumption not a whole lot of
change. Temps are better but need to go up on the needle still.
When I first started getting the engine in the proper heat range I had
to go to a different needle, I believe one for a 503 (running a 447)
because I couldn't get the temps below 1250 at 57-to 5900 rpms. Point of
this whole story is that the blasted engines will run, but not perfect,
with some of the wierdest configurations you could find. As for the
humidity, I live in the desert and humidity is always low, perhaps that is
why I needed to change needles.
Larry ( a bit embarrased)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 07/09/00 |
Continental and Lycoming are certified, direct drive, 4 cycle engines.
Rotaxes are 2 stroke engines with reduction drives, with the exception of
the 912 which is a 4 stroke with re-drive, and is also certified.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cppjh(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 5:04 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 07/09/00
>
> I have read a great number of ideas about engines, especially Rotax and I
> wonder if anyone would like to expound on the difference in Rotax and
> aircraft engines like
> Continental or Lycoming??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
List,
Yesterday while taking off from the strip where I keep my plane a fuel line
broke at the primer bulb, causing a landing in a wet soybean field. No one
was hurt but because I stalled just above the beans I am going to need:
Fusealage cage, nosecone, landing gear, and boom tube w/ H section. Anyone
know how much this will cost? Everything else, wings and tailfeathers are
undamaged.
Geoff "frustrated beyond belief" Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Instrument bashing! |
>If your alternator goes out, your battery dies or your buss fries, a
>few suck type instruments would look mighty good up there in a murky sky.
The 'dark panel' syndrome has been topic of many a hair-raising,
wing-and-a-prayer hangar tale for decades. Virtually all of these
experiences happend in a government approved, certified aircraft
where the technology and design philosophy are carved into
1960's era regulatory stone.
>With all electric, you could lose all instrments at once unless you have a
>lot of back up electrical systems in place.
There is no reason for a modern aircraft to suffer an electrical
emergency of any kind. Wires are no longer cotton-covered-rubber
or nylon-over-PVC insulation. Reasonably maintained batteries are
dependable sources of power when and if the alternator craps. A second
alternator capable of extended endurance engine powered flight
costs less than a vacuum system and weighs 1/2 to 1/3 the pounds.
Certified alternators repeately demonstrate 50-200 hrs limits before
something breaks . . . modern alternators that ran the lifetime of
the automobile they came out of are ready to go another thousand
hours or so in your airplane. Simple departures from system architectures
revered for decades provide operational alternatives to every
simple failure of any component.
Physics and facts don't support the rhetoric. Busses don't "fry",
any battery that enjoys a modicum of preventative maintenance doesn't
die in flight, and alternators (particulary two of them) are going
to be there in one form or another when you need them. MOST importantly,
YOUR airplane is going to be fabricated and maintined under aviation's
finest traditions of craftsmanship and attention to detail.
On an assembly line, the kid bucking rivets has been working there two
weeks. If something doesn't quite line up, he'll stick an awl
into the hole and MAKE them line up. If something gets bent or broke,
3 supervisors and 5 inspectors will stand around for an hour and
deduce the MINIMUM effort and expense that will allow the factory
to LEGALLY put the airplane out the door. Is that how your
airplane goes together?
>So you install double alternators, double batteries, seperate busses and so
>on. Also, if I am not off the bubble, electric instruments cost a lot more.
True. But you save on vacuum system weight and installation time.
The rat's nest of plumbing and hoses behind panel go away. Weight of
system goes down. In 1965 while working at Cessna single engine
engineering I was told that it was worth $100/pound to the end user
to reduce the weight of an airplane. Each pound left OUT didn't have
to be fabricated, installed, maintained nor was fuel burned carrying
that extra pound of stuff around in the sky for the lifetime of the
airplane. What is a pound of excess weight worth to you 35 years
later? What's it worth to have reliability in a single engine airplane
that rivals or exceeds that of a LearJet? What's it worth NOT to
fabricate, install and maintain several pounds of plumbing?
>Vac. pumps have been around for ever and to suddenly say they are no good
>makes little sense. With Vac. pumps as with most other things, you get what
>you pay for. Even one supposedly good for only three hundred hours would
>run most pilots three years.
It runs deeper than getting what you pay for . . . you can pay
a lot of money for trash. If you endorse the "been around forever"
philosophy then how about keeping dual VOR and an ADF in the
panel? I know some folks that would make you a really good deal
on a DME.
I work daily within the morass of regulated aviation. A substantial
portion of my time is expended trying to figure out how to fix
a problem without opening the Pandora's box of recertification.
The system works against truly effective solutions to problems.
The very reguations offered up in the quest for aviation utopia
are in fact making airplanes less friendly to the people who
own, maintain and fly them. You don't know how refreshing it is to come
home and work the folks who are building the finest airplanes to have
ever flown.
You may find comfort in a familiarity with "the devil
you know". However a little study of aviation's history
and some observation of truly modern and (more important)
UNREGULATED evolution of aviation technology proves that
"the devil you don't know" is really a pretty nice guy.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Haines" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 07/10/00 |
***********
I have read a great number of ideas about engines, especially Rotax and I
wonder if anyone would like to expound on the difference in Rotax and
aircraft engines like Continental or Lycoming??
***********
Very general question. Let me try to give you a answer (read: opinion).
If your question is about the design and quality of construction, I feel,
with my limited experience, that the three referenced engines are all in the
same ballpark. They have all been building engines long enough to work out
even the finest details.
As far as general design, the primary difference between Rotax engines and
Cont./Lyc. engines is their design objective. Piston engines are simply air
pumps where the quantity of air pumped is equal to power output. It is also
equivelant to the wear imposed on the engine or, stated another way, the
time between overhauls. These two items are inversly related. Rotax and
Cont./Lyc. engines are at opposite sides of the scale with this
relationship. To futher illustrate, lets say you had two identical engines.
You ran one at 2400 rpm and the other at 6000 rpm. It is obvious that the
6000 rpm engine would produce more power. On the other hand, the 2400 rpm
engine would last many more hours before it required an overhaul.
The answer is then based on what you want the engine to do. Cont./Lyc.
engines are put in general aviation aircraft and are workhorses. They
perform in an area where reliability and long life are the major
consideration. Rotax engines are built for recreational vehicles
(snowmobiles, jet skis, small aircraft). They need to be light and
powerfull to provide the maximum amount of fun for the least amount of
weight and cost.
It sounds like you are shopping for an engine. Just remember, there is
always a trade-off.
Robert Haines
Slingshot in progress (actually in storage)
St. Louis, MO
http://roberthaines.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
Geoff,
If it is a Firestar II, you are in the ballpark of $3200. Call Kolb for real
prices. Good luck with the rebuild. And keep reminding yourself, "At least I wasn't
hurt".
Group,
I currently own my second Kolb and they are great planes. But this is one
problem.
They are made light to perform.Stall one near the ground, and it can be very expensive.
And that doesn't consider your time.
John Jung
Geoff Thistlethwaite wrote:
>
> List,
> Yesterday while taking off from the strip where I keep my plane a fuel line
> broke at the primer bulb, causing a landing in a wet soybean field. No one
> was hurt but because I stalled just above the beans I am going to need:
> Fusealage cage, nosecone, landing gear, and boom tube w/ H section. Anyone
> know how much this will cost? Everything else, wings and tailfeathers are
> undamaged.
>
> Geoff "frustrated beyond belief" Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
>From: "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net>
>a fuel line broke at the primer bulb, Geoff "frustrated beyond belief"
>Thistlethwaite
Hi Geoff,
Really sorry to hear of your mishap.
For all of our information, this would be a good opportuity to learn from
someone elses mistakes, I.E. as well all make them.
Please tell us what type of fuel line were you using?
Was it the blue line?
How long had it been since last changed?
Was it hardened and cracked?
Where was the primer bulb located?
Did you check this during preflight?
I know it may be a little embarassing, but you just might save someone else
from getting really hurt.
A buddy of ours had a pulse line break at the engine. He had seldom ever
checked it. It was only hard about 2" out but that was all it took to put
him in the weeds and break his back. I check mine often since then.
Thanks,
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
What kind of Kolb are you flying? Please reply off list. Do not
archive. Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Instrument bashing! |
>Bob,
> I know a guy who was flying an Arrow from Orlando, FL, to Corpus
>Christ, TX. As he was getting into the pattern, he dropped his retractable
>gear. Suddenly he found that he had no electrical power, and the lights
>weren't going green -- he heard the thumps but no light indication. He went
>to NORDO procedures and the airport rolled out the red carpet in the way of
>emergency vehicles and foam machines. It turns out that his gear was down,
>and he made a safe landing. Later he found out that the problem was caused
>by his flying for 3.5 hours with the alternator switch off. He had been
>running on the battery the whole time and didn't even know it!
EXACTLY!!!!!!! Not one single certified light aircraft I'm
aware of ever left the factory with the most rudimentary
of electrical systems instrumentation - ACTIVE NOTIFICATION
OF ALTENRATOR FAILURE - in the form of low volts warning for
bus below 13.0 volts. . . .
Sometimes we get so enamored of all the things we CAN do in
terms of whippy avionics we forget the basics. I'm working a
problem right now on a certified aircraft that has cost about
$10,000,000 in warranty service in the field . . . the study
is zeroing in on a change in MATERIAL about 10 years ago
that cost under $1.
> So I say that there are still reasons for modern aircraft to suffer an
>electrical emergency of some kind. If you factor in pilot error, there
>could be an emergency, just like above. And I am sure that are other ways
>of having electrical emergencies. After all, they were invented and built
>by humans, so electrical systems, just like other systems, are prone to
>failure.
I disagree . . . certified aircraft are NOT modern . . . Independence
KS and company are the Jurassic Parks of aviation. Your #1 sources
for brand new 40 year old airplanes. Airplanes built in people's
basements and garages CAN be modern if the builder so chooses. The
guy's Arrow would have benefited greatly from the addition of a
simple, $50 warning light.
> To be fair, I plan on going all electric with redundancy, just like you
>say below. But I do plan on having emergency procedures in case those
>redundant systems fail.
Please do everything you can to strike the word "EMERGENCY" from
the lexicon of electrical system speech . . . it's high school
physics and application of rudimentary logic to design a system
that is failure tolerant of any single component failure. Electrical
sytem PARTS failures should not precipitate flight SYSTEM failures.
> . . . When I get to the instruments and electrical system
>on my Aerocanard, I would like to talk to you about it. I want a highly
>reliable redundant electrical system and instruments with good lighting for
>night operations. I'm sick and tired of these production aircraft that have
>poorly lit instruments that can't hardly be seen at night.
Good for you! Please reste assured that it's not difficult . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
Group,
Thanks to all for the kind words that I've received.
Well here's the embarrising details.
The fuel line was installed a couple of years ago as I was building. It was
the clear line that came with the kit. I don't think the new blue line was
available back when I ordered the kit. My first mistake was thinking that
having done all the plumbing before covering that the lines were going to
still be good(no gas in them and they were not in the sun). The plane had
only 50 hours on it but the build time was a few years. I had ordered and
received some new Blue line from CPS and was going to install it this
weekend. (Mistake #2)
Mistake #3 was not changing all lines when one of them leaked. During
preflight I changed one line that was suspect and pulled and squeezed all
the others and they seemed good, I should have just gone ahead and changed
them all. (lesson to the list-change them all every year)
So there you have it, an hour of prevention could have saved thousands of
dollars and kept me in the air the rest of the summer and beyond.
disgusted with myself
Geoff Thistlethwaite
PS the silver lining in this is I get to do some improvements as I rebuild.
For instance the cross brace behind the pilots seat was bending with the
load and I was looking to find a way to brace it up. Also now maybe I can
find the money to put in an EIS.
I'll keep the list posted as I rebuild.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: extra plate on boom |
Hey Jeromy Casey. I have what is close to ten guage T60-61 rolled and
installed around my boom about ten inches from the tail. Had to fix a Texas
boo boo. Take a look at my installation before you try it. I dont think I
would want a fix at the prop because the flex of the boom is pretty great
right there and the edge of the rolled tube might actually cut the boom. My
imagination. The boo boo tape (sic) is about the best solution and looks
good too. Us short guys use a ladder to get to the top of the engine. Of
course I could see if I could stand on yellow jacket's shoulders, that would
do it. I could polish the end of the prop. As a matter of remembering for
most Kolbers who started out a little smaller, when you have your full
windscreen on, it feels a little nose heavy and when you put a short
windshield on for summer, the speed increases and the nose comes back up.
Delicate little buggers aint they. Well, my two cents worth. Ted Cowan Do
not archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
In a message dated 7/11/00 1:47:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< During
preflight I changed one line that was suspect and pulled and squeezed all
the others and they seemed good, I should have just gone ahead and changed
them all. (lesson to the list-change them all every year)
So there you have it, an hour of prevention could have saved thousands of
dollars and kept me in the air the rest of the summer and beyond.
disgusted with myself
Geoff Thistlethwaite >>
Geoff, thanks for sharing .....I'm going right out and change some of my
clear ...(brown) tubing right now!!...It's only about 4 year old!! Oh, btw,
why did you stall above the beans?
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
Geoff Thistlethwaite >>
>Geoff, thanks for sharing .....I'm going right out and change some of my
>clear ...(brown) tubing right now!!...It's only about 4 year old!!
>
>GeoR38
George and flyers,
This is for the record about the blue fuel line. This comes from experience.
It ain't what it is cracked up to be. For example: When I was flying the
MKIII I use to own, it came with blue line installed. Maybe two years old.
At a fly-in I discovered it had gas showing up on the primer line as I
primed. I pulled and squeezed it, but it felt OK. Under closer inspection
of that line it had deteriorated only half way around the line with little
micro splits in only one spot about 12 inches long. That part just happened
to be out in the elements. I thought that it was caused by the sun also. You
could bend it and the splits would get bigger and finally the line would
just come apart. I had bought new blue fuel line to replace all the old line
but now I was skeptical of the blue line and wanted to try and find the
clear line I had on my Quicksilver. It was clear, thick walled fuel line
that had been on my plane for 4 years without any sign of deterioration. I
couldn't find any so I replaced the fuel lines with the blue line I had
bought at SNF from Lockwood. I had bought a 25 foot roll so I had plenty
left over so I left it in the plastic bag it came it and placed it in a
plastic storage box. It has hardly ever seen the light of day much less the
sunrays on it. I sold the MKIII and the new owner soon replaced the fuel
lines with premium automotive fuel lines. As far as I know he hasn't had any
problems at all. I, on the other hand, did find the good clear fuel line at
a local M/C shop and ordered 2/25 foot rolls of it, one for each size. It
was marked "Helix Racing Fuel Line". It was the right stuff so I put it on
my new plane. After two years I replaced it just as a precaution. The old
line was still like new. It had gotten darker but it was still strong and
flexable and stiff enough to use as pulse line.
It has been about 4 years since I bought the roll of blue line from
Lockwood. The other day I had pulled it out looking for something else. I
wondered what to do with this never been used fuel line. Upon closer
inspection of the blue line I found that it too had deteriorated to the
point the inside was chaulky. I cut a piece off with my side cutters. There
wasn't much resistance in the wall material. It came apart quiet easily. So
I took out a piece of the old clear fuel line I had replaced that had been
in service for at least two years. It cut like new. It makes that grit sound
as you go through with the side cutters. Much more resistant than the blue
line. The blue line even in the original package and stored dry and clean
will deteriorate regardless of whether you run fuel through it or not. I
don't use it and I don't promote it but I will tell you that the fuel line
is one of the most important if not the most important componant on your
airplane, so take care as to what you use as a fuel line. Then check it
often, all of it.
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
| Subject: | Really Bad News Dept |
Kolbsters,
How abt we ALL send a few$ to our Downed Pilot John H. Just think of
having a few beers (root or what floats yer boat) with John, only he's
not at the bar. It's not charity--he'd thump me fer that--it's just a
bit of help with some of his many Big Expenses he's having to get his
beloved plane back to Hauck's Holler. You'd all help him if he had
landed in your area, but since he didn't, let's send a coupla $. John
has been (and still is) one of the premier exponents of Kolbs, both old
(but still good) and New. C'mon!
John Hauck
355 Coosa Rd.
TITUS AL 36080
Bob N. The Grey Baron
http:members.xoom.com/ronoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
How about a kit. If your flying a FireStar I know a guy (his name also)
that has a old FireStar kit. He was going to sell it a while back. Should
be less than a new one and you have parts for a wings and tail you could
sell to the next guy.
Email direct if you might be interested. It's located in North Dallas TX
area.
He also has a older 503 but has been unwilling to sell it, might if he
would sell the rest.
jerryb
>
>List,
>Yesterday while taking off from the strip where I keep my plane a fuel line
>broke at the primer bulb, causing a landing in a wet soybean field. No one
>was hurt but because I stalled just above the beans I am going to need:
>Fusealage cage, nosecone, landing gear, and boom tube w/ H section. Anyone
>know how much this will cost? Everything else, wings and tailfeathers are
>undamaged.
>
>Geoff "frustrated beyond belief" Thistlethwaite
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
No body likes to hear this but it does happen.
We had close to two years on our fuel system components when it came time
to decarbon the engine. Since its easier to decarbon by pulling the engine
on the FireFly, we choose to replace all hoses, squeeze bulb, fuel filter,
fuel pump, and pulse line tubing at the same time. The fuel pump was the
biggest cost $30, we use only the name brand one. It was surprising to see
just how hard and brittle the fuel line had become in 2 years. We watching
even closer now.
jerryb
>
>
>>From: "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net>
>
>>a fuel line broke at the primer bulb, Geoff "frustrated beyond belief"
>>Thistlethwaite
>
>Hi Geoff,
>Really sorry to hear of your mishap.
>For all of our information, this would be a good opportuity to learn from
>someone elses mistakes, I.E. as well all make them.
>Please tell us what type of fuel line were you using?
>Was it the blue line?
>How long had it been since last changed?
>Was it hardened and cracked?
>Where was the primer bulb located?
>Did you check this during preflight?
>
>I know it may be a little embarassing, but you just might save someone else
>from getting really hurt.
>A buddy of ours had a pulse line break at the engine. He had seldom ever
>checked it. It was only hard about 2" out but that was all it took to put
>him in the weeds and break his back. I check mine often since then.
>Thanks,
>Firehawk
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
Yes, Yes, the blue fuel isn't any better. My partner used it on his
N3-Pup. After a off field landing when taking the Global engine off ( the
reason for the forced landing), we found that the blue fuel line which was
only about a year old was hard and would crack (break) easily. What that
blue line.
jerryb
>
>
>Geoff Thistlethwaite >>
>>Geoff, thanks for sharing .....I'm going right out and change some of my
>>clear ...(brown) tubing right now!!...It's only about 4 year old!!
>>
>>GeoR38
>George and flyers,
>
>This is for the record about the blue fuel line. This comes from experience.
>
>It ain't what it is cracked up to be. For example: When I was flying the
>MKIII I use to own, it came with blue line installed. Maybe two years old.
>At a fly-in I discovered it had gas showing up on the primer line as I
>primed. I pulled and squeezed it, but it felt OK. Under closer inspection
>of that line it had deteriorated only half way around the line with little
>micro splits in only one spot about 12 inches long. That part just happened
>to be out in the elements. I thought that it was caused by the sun also. You
>could bend it and the splits would get bigger and finally the line would
>just come apart. I had bought new blue fuel line to replace all the old line
>but now I was skeptical of the blue line and wanted to try and find the
>clear line I had on my Quicksilver. It was clear, thick walled fuel line
>that had been on my plane for 4 years without any sign of deterioration. I
>couldn't find any so I replaced the fuel lines with the blue line I had
>bought at SNF from Lockwood. I had bought a 25 foot roll so I had plenty
>left over so I left it in the plastic bag it came it and placed it in a
>plastic storage box. It has hardly ever seen the light of day much less the
>sunrays on it. I sold the MKIII and the new owner soon replaced the fuel
>lines with premium automotive fuel lines. As far as I know he hasn't had any
>problems at all. I, on the other hand, did find the good clear fuel line at
>a local M/C shop and ordered 2/25 foot rolls of it, one for each size. It
>was marked "Helix Racing Fuel Line". It was the right stuff so I put it on
>my new plane. After two years I replaced it just as a precaution. The old
>line was still like new. It had gotten darker but it was still strong and
>flexable and stiff enough to use as pulse line.
> It has been about 4 years since I bought the roll of blue line from
>Lockwood. The other day I had pulled it out looking for something else. I
>wondered what to do with this never been used fuel line. Upon closer
>inspection of the blue line I found that it too had deteriorated to the
>point the inside was chaulky. I cut a piece off with my side cutters. There
>wasn't much resistance in the wall material. It came apart quiet easily. So
>I took out a piece of the old clear fuel line I had replaced that had been
>in service for at least two years. It cut like new. It makes that grit sound
>as you go through with the side cutters. Much more resistant than the blue
>line. The blue line even in the original package and stored dry and clean
>will deteriorate regardless of whether you run fuel through it or not. I
>don't use it and I don't promote it but I will tell you that the fuel line
>is one of the most important if not the most important componant on your
>airplane, so take care as to what you use as a fuel line. Then check it
>often, all of it.
>
>Firehawk
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Hudson" <phudson(at)iwvisp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2-Stroke Jetting, Sparkplugs |
This brings up another "whats normal" type question..
I'm hitting my max RPM at about 1/2 throttle. More lever does't really
change power much. It's as though the engine can't suck any more than what
it gets at 1/2 throttle. It very nonlinear. 0 to 4500 RPM in the first 1/2
inch of throttle cable pull. It sure does keep me guessing.
I'm at the point now where if the engnie leak test is good and the fan belt
is good I'm just going to put whatever it takes to run at 1100 Full throttle
and 1100 cruise then go flying.
-Peter-
> When I first started getting the engine in the proper heat range I had
> to go to a different needle, I believe one for a 503 (running a 447)
> because I couldn't get the temps below 1250 at 57-to 5900 rpms. Point of
> this whole story is that the blasted engines will run, but not perfect,
> with some of the wierdest configurations you could find. As for the
> humidity, I live in the desert and humidity is always low, perhaps that is
> why I needed to change needles.
>
> Larry ( a bit embarrased)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
There are certain types of blue fuel line that is of very good quality. I
had some on my plane for over 10 years without any cracking or
deterioration. It was as flexible as the new stuff I put on. Speaking of
the new stuff, it was pink and I flew out to Osh and back and noticed
leaks on the garage floor about 2 weeks later. That pink stuff had
shrunk, lost it's color, and got very brittle. Needless to say, I
replaced it with new blue stuff and I'll keep it until I see a problem.
By the way, I left my cage open (no covering on the rear) when I built it
for reasons like this, I can inspect it on every flight.
The blue fuel line was called 'Lemans' and I got it from LEAF.
Add a bypass around the primer bulb.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>
>
> I'm not sure, but I haven't seen any blue line that I would use,
> CPS or otherwise. They may have changed the formula to correct it but
>it's not worth the risk for me to test their product with my butt. The
older
> it gets the darker it gets and the harder to tell if it is cracking or
see
> any other potential problems.
>Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Or use a large universal paper filter and change it annually. I get them
for $3.77 at the local auto stores (made in Israel). There was a pilot
with a nice Titan Tornado w/912 in this area who had a case of IBC
(Instant Birdman Complex) and borrowed a small fuel filter from a hanger
buddy. The engine quit at 200' on takeoff and no place to go except back
to the field. He was fortunate to lose his plane but spare himself and
his passenger's life. Even a 912 is as reliable as the type of fuel
filter in series with the engine. Please stay away from those small
filters, give the engine a chance to work for you.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>> (quote)
> "I had installed a filter with a paper
> element and a batch of poor gas from the local service station
> plugged it."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: blue fuel line |
Hey Ralph and gang,
They must have made better blue line back then. I've seen blue line on other
engines and planes that have a lot of hours on it without any of the
problems I have experienced but I'd keep a close eye on the new blue line. I
have used some of the orange line too. It did the same thing yours did. Got
hard and shrunk. I replaced it in a month. The green line is the same way. I
did test a few pieces of different fuel line a couple years ago by placing
them in a can of gas and leaving them for a couple of weeks. The green line
got so hard that you could snap it into. It was amazing how much different
one line is from another. The Helix Racing fuel line came out on top.
Another reason I use it. If you have doubts about your fuel line try this
test.
From reading your post it sounds as though you have a lot of hours and
experience in ultralights. I hope we can meet someday and compare notes.
Firehawk
>I had some on my plane for over 10 years without any cracking or
>deterioration. Add a bypass around the primer bulb.
>
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original FireStar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel filters |
>
>Or use a large universal paper filter and change it annually.
Hey again Ralph,
You're right about the big fuel filter. I use the biggest see through paper
filter I can find. One that would probably work on a large SUV with a 300
HP engine. If I pour bad gas in my tank, I figure it will give me enough
time to make a rational decision if I have an emergency.
Of course I do check that filter during preflight. It is standing on end so
all the debries will be at the bottom of the element. It would take a lot of
debrie to stop it up between inspections. I also have a finger filter in my
tank to keep out any large pieces from stopping up the kick-up line. I also
have a loop in my line below the tank to let me know if there is any water
in the fuel. If there is I can drain it out with a drain valve I installed.
It comes in handy also when you are flying with your buds and one of them
needs a little fuel to get home or to the next fuel stop.
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel filters |
A few weeks ago I bought a fuel filter/water trap from my local jet ski
dealer. It has a see-through bowl that shows any trapped water and a very
fine mesh screen. It was for an 80 HP jet-ski engine and the cost was less
than $40. Mounting this unit turned out to be the problem but I think I will
attach it to a bracket I have made for the tube at the top of the cage. It
will be upstream from the fuel pump rather than at the fuel system low point
but I think the unit's flow capacity will let the fuel in that big bowl slow
down enough to allow any water to separate out. The bowl unscrews like a
Mason jar with an O-ring seal and emptying it from the low point location
would be a sloppy chore. I'm betting my bacon it will work (after some full
throttle testing on the ground). Purchased at Florida Motor Sports, (904)
575-0305, Jason Vaughn.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly, 447, Ivo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron adjustment |
Richard- Excellent answer. 1 comment-on heavy metal-years back--the VG's
everyone on list has been making and installing-were used on ailerons
Military Fighters)--just a comment-that might help the person with the
aileron adjustment..
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "plane" <plane(at)atomic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Thistlethwaite <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Bad News Dept
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
>
> > Oh, btw,
> > why did you stall above the beans?
> > GeoR38
>
> Well if you ever walked though a soybean field you'll find that the plant
is
> like a very strong vine. If you try a standard landing say at 40 mph the
> beans will grab your gear and stop you immediately but the plane will keep
> going ...right on over...
>
> So landing in a soybean field it's best to stall just above the field and
> drop in ...you will wipe out your landing gear but most likely you won't
> flip all the way over...You hope...
>
Hi gang
I had a motor failure on my ultrastar last fall and had to land in a
soybean field. I had to dive down to the field so that i would not over
shoot it. I flew the plane right to the ground made a high speed wheel
landing and waited for the nose over but it never happened my touch down
speed must have been well over 50 mph as my roll out was over 300 ft in knee
high beans. i did land with the rows that may have been a factor. the
ultrastar had no damage other then a burnd piston. engine had to go
(cyuna ) for a subaru ea 71 will test fly in a few weeks
>
Randy Soob poward ultrastar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
It comes in handy also when you are flying with your buds and one of them
needs a little fuel to get home or to the next fuel stop.
Firehawk
WOW! I knew you "Fly for Food" guys were good , but AIR-TO-AIR refueling is
IMPRESSIVE!!!! I know what you meant...just pickin' at ya....
Another angle on the fuel line discussion could be that different areas of
the country and different brands of gas put "Different" additives in. Some
might be harmless to a particular brand of fuel line , while others are
"DEADLY"!!! I remember a Kolb-lister from long ago named Russell Duffy that
told us about a 90 degree barbed fuel line connector that melted in a matter
of days after the neighborhood gas station started putting some weird
additive in their gas...Makes me "WONDER" to say the least!!!
Sounds like a good argument for solid wall fuel line and metal fittings ,
but then again people have flown lots of safe hours with the UL stuff , so
who knows???
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 7/13/00 7:29:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
edgmills(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< I need some input before I make a costly decision
that could be the wrong one! >>
Go with the 582.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <jon(at)joncroke.com> |
| Subject: | EGT probes and Temps |
More on EGT temps....
I noticed my front cylinder gradually loosing EGT temperature over period of
several months, to the point it was 200 degrees less than rear! But the CHTs
never changed and engine in general still running like a top.
After close inspection, I noticed that the braided shield wire that goes
thru the
crimp on the EGT probe of the front cylinder had slipped (pulled) thru the
crimp and was about 1/2" lower than the other probe in the rear. I pushed
it
back up into the probe (never came completely off) and found the temps back
within reason of the rear cylinder.
Installed a new probe and both cylinder temps are matched for the first
time!.... but just dont blindly trust these things for
asccuracy.... If the shield cables aren't aligned in relation to the crimp
(cant
adjust this easily) or by sliding the probe in the housing before
tightening the compression
nut (the part you CAN adjust) , they wont read equal.
Some of you have mentioned this before so I thought I would experiment... I
haven't touched (squeezed!) my primer bulb (at least not in public!) after
reading about those of you without bulbs, and sure enough.... I THINK IM
GONNA REMOVE it! In other words, my normal starting procedure of goosing the
primer PLUNGER (no choke on this 503) for about 30 secs until running smooth
seems to draw the fuel right up from the tank past the primer (I have a
bypass hose). No need to squeeze the bulb. I suppose the time Ill be in
trouble will be if my carbs are empty (at begining of season), as I don't
know if they'll fill using this method......
Jon
FS 75 hrs
Greenbay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flycrazy8(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
I too had a engine out except it was over a cotton feild. Was also flying a" kolb
ultrastar "with a "cyuana" engine.Problem was i was only about 100 feet high.
Had to drop the nose and go cotton picking without a sack.lol... No problem
on the landing just rolled about 50 ft and stopped. Had cotton hanging all over
the kolb. A farmer came by to ask what kind of coton picker that was....lol
To this day haven't found the reason for the engine stoppage...Still flying
with the Cyuana.....hasn't missed a lick...Maybe it don't like the taste of
cotton....lol
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EGT probes and Temps& gauges |
>
>
>More on EGT temps....
>
>I noticed my front cylinder gradually loosing EGT temperature over period
>of several months, to the point it was 200 degrees less than rear! but just
>dont blindly trust these things for accuracy
It doesn't take much to get them off a little. The terminal connectors at
the back of my gauges are usually my problem although I have had the same
type of problem you discribed. I usually pull them off and slide them back
on to solve the erronious readings unless I know it is the ambient air
temperature. Then I just wait until the nose cone air cools and the gauges
cool. Things tend to correct themselves after a while.
>Some of you have mentioned this before
Ill be in trouble will be if my carbs are empty (at begining of season), as
I don't know if they'll fill using this method......
You won't have to fill the bowls if you keep using the start primer until
the pulse pump has time to fill them after you start the engine. Clear fuel
line will help in this case. Make sure you take the bowls off before you
ever start it in the spring just to make sure there isn't any varnish or
other debrie in the bowl to fowl the jets. The engine will start 4-cycling
when it is time to stop priming. Then it will run on it's own.
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firerstar ID and structure question |
Sam,
The difference in the Firestar I and II is that the II has two extra ribs
in each wing and a smaller aileron. At least that is what my plans show.
John Jung
Sam Cox wrote:
>
> I intend to look at a Firestar project that was abandoned in a rental hangar
> and the hangar owner has taken ownership of it to settle the back rent.
> Does Kolb put an ID number or other identifing marks on their kits?
>
> What is the structural differences between the Firestar I and Firestar II
> that accounts for the FS II's higher G.W. limit? In other words, can a FS
> I airframe be upgraded to the FS II G.W. capability.
>
> Sam Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
I am building a mark3/xtra and ... I will be using a
short field, 800 ft. usable and will have two people
on board some of the time.(30%)
The 503 was originally offered in the Mk3 but is no
longer offered in the XTRA.
What do you experts think?
At least a 582!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Hi Guys
Time to tap into the collected wisdom of the list. I am still working on
my MK3 rebuild. I have rewelded all the bent or broken pieces after the
hanger fell on it and the wings are almost done with the new airfoil.
Problem now is I was looking at the cage from a distance for the first time
and noticed a droop in the rear wing attach tube. This square tube is down
about 1 inch from one tip to the other. It is still straight.No distortion
on any other part of the cage. No obvious signs of a twist. That 2 inch
tube down the center would be awfull hard to twist.Measuring shows the
front of the cage is nice and square. The boom tube fits in nice and
square. Just that the one tube is down. Almost like it came out of the
factory that way. Could that be possible? I can find no evidence to the
contrary. There are extra holes in the front cage tangs and front wing
tangs and can be adjusted to get the same angle of attack on both wings.
Almost like it has been that way for a long time.
So I have 2 questions
1. Could the cage have slipped out of the old Kolb factory like that
2. Some one on the list knew the original owners down in Arkansa or
Louisiana. Perhaps they could provide an insight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The UNDULATING Kolb |
Paul,
Three things could possibly be contributing to the tail wagging:
1. Excess weight (and its longitudinal distribution)
2. Excess power
3. Some protuberance around the fuselage which creates turbulence at the
tail.
It might be all three combined.
I think there was one or two float equipped TwinStars that would
occasionally display a mild tailwagging. In this case it was probably
related to the longitudinal distribution of excess weight which could have
changed the natural frequency of the aircraft structure.
There was a Mark-III that had a similar wagging of the tail in the lateral
direction - not the vertical.
The owner tried almost everything to no avail. After a year of monk eying
with it, he discovered the problem. The owner had a float mounting bracket
attached just underneath the bottom of the fuselage between the gear legs,
(it was attached to the top of the gear legs). It was a 1" square tube
which attached a monofloat. (The tail wagging existed without the float
attached.) When he removed this tube, the tail wagging stopped. Evidently
is was creating turbulence which affected the tail.
It could be your radiator or something else could be causing turbulence.
The battery in the nose is increasing the moment of inertial of the aircraft
as a whole and could be contributing to the effect. It sounds, based upon
the back stick pressure you describe, that the battery does not need to be
in the nose. You did not describe the results of your weight and balance,
but it appears your body weight is on the light side to require a battery in
the nose along with all the other avionics installed there.
By the way, if you weigh 190 lbs., with the 90 lb load you describe, you
will be at gross weight with normal full fuel of 10 gals.
You also have much more power than Homer ever dreamed would be installed in
the Mark-II. Homer said 52 HP max. You have exceeded that by a significant
amount. For this reason alone ... all by itself, it is not correct to say
that you built "precisely to drawing and manual instructions" or "it was
totally as it came from Homer around 1990".
What to do??
Examine your radiator, and any other added objects not anticipated in the
Mark-II design, for turbulence generation.
Do a careful weight and balance and re-distribute weight as required.
It would appear that great caution should be exercised in the usage of all
that power. Few mortals are capable of restraining themselves with such
power - best to take it out and install a more rational engine.
Hope this helps,
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of PAUL JOHNSON
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 1:34 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: The UNDULATING Kolb (The Mystry[at least to me])
To all those Kolb flyer, builders and otherwise enthusiast I have a mystery
for you.
BACKGROUND: In 1991 I bought a Kolb "Twinstar Mark II", it was totally as
it came from Homer around 1990. To make a long story shorter I did a
beautiful job of building and had its first flight Nov. 1998.
EQUIPMENT; Not being one to build just the minimum airplane and somewhat
out of need (the airport is 5000' altitude), I added a few things not per
original plan I deemed necessary. I made absolutely no structural changes,
however I included and ELT, a battery in the nose cone so I would have power
even with and engine out, a floor board out of .050 al, and electrical
system of course, Matco heal breaks. Instrument panel consist of and EIS
engine monitor, Rocky Mnt. encoder (provides lots of air data information),
standard alt. a std. airspeed indicator, hard mounted hand held xceiver and
strobes.
ENGINE: Partly because of my altitude (5000') and partly because it was
available I employed a Rotax 583 engine (note I said a 583). (For those who
may not know, a 583 is virtually identical to a 582 except it has the "RAVE"
(variable exhaust port geometry system), it has Micuni carburetors and a
Ducoti CDI. The perported disadvantage to the 583 is it dose not have "dual
ignition") It dose and has performed very well using an 3 bladed IVO ground
adjustable prop. Empty weight is 410#.
During flight test, with elevator trim fully applied I still had to hold a
substantial back pressure on the stick to fly level. Solution: Adjust the
horizontal stabilizer 1/2 inch up, I had seen it done on some Kolbs at
Oshkosh and checked with Kolb on the idea, they said OK. I incorporated the
change and it worked, fly hands off. Resumed flight test, gradually added
weight to work it up to gross weight. This is when I began to notice my
problem.
The condition did not demonstrate itself before I altered the horizontal
stabilizer even with weight, it had just became increasingly uncomfortable
holding up elevator. After the stabilizer change, with weight 90# I
experienced and "undulation motion". At first I thought is was some kind of
flutter but the stick was not being effected, it felt like the entire tail
epenage was oscillating up and down at a rate of about 1 cycle per second
and it felt like the fuselage was the pivot point. At higher speeds, 65mph
it would start, and usually stop when I reduced power, although in one turn
to final it seemed for a moment it would not stop.
I am at my wits end to try to figure out what is going on, called the
factory, they had no suggestions, I built the bird precisely to drawing and
manual instructions, had it looked at many times by during the build by EAA
designees so I feel nothing is a mis with the build.
So, I turn to you gentlemen, with all your accumulative knowledge and
experience, got any ideas?
Thanking you in advance, Paul Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Elder" <billelder(at)denver.net> |
| Subject: | Strobe Wing Wiring |
Request from Colorado regarding installation of Kuntzleman dual strobe
wiring on my Mark III. Talked to the quick build guys and they run the wire
through the trailing edge wing tube out to the wing tip. I was worried
about this approach as there are so many rivets in the tube that the wire
might chafe after time, but it would be relatively easy to replace with
minimum tearing into the fabric. But the wire is substantial, and using
wiring ties, it seems like running the wire inside the wing out to the
wingtip would be an OK approach. The consequences of a wire malfunction
however may require massive recovering. How have you all approached this
issue?
BTW I'm getting close to the wing/tail feather covering phase and hope to
have her flying by this winter. Thanks so much for all your daily inputs -
lots of knowledge out there and it is much appreciated by a novice builder.
Bill Elder, Conifer, Colorado
Mark III SN N523MY - 912 - "Wild Wabbit"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: blue fuel line |
I do not want to beat this hose thing to death but no one has mentioned the
fact what I think the real problem is, and that is when this tubing is extruded
in an extrusion machine you can change the properties of the pebax (plastic) by
adding pellets such as if you want to give the tubing some flexibility you would
add an elastomer pellets to it. If you don't want your tubing to breakdown under
uv conditions, then you would put an uv stabilizer in it, this all comes with an
expense and to be competitive in this hose market you have to cut corners, if you
have some hose that is selling for .83 a ft. vs. $1.23 a ft. which one would you
buy being you think they look the same. the truth is the one that cost you .83
they probably won't tell that it does not contain a uv stabilizer and it will not
last as long one that does assuming the conditions are the same.
only an expert on john deere stationary engines.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
michael highsmith wrote:
>
> Hey Ralph and gang,
> They must have made better blue line back then. I've seen blue line on other
> engines and planes that have a lot of hours on it without any of the
> problems I have experienced but I'd keep a close eye on the new blue line. I
> have used some of the orange line too. It did the same thing yours did. Got
> hard and shrunk. I replaced it in a month. The green line is the same way. I
> did test a few pieces of different fuel line a couple years ago by placing
> them in a can of gas and leaving them for a couple of weeks. The green line
> got so hard that you could snap it into. It was amazing how much different
> one line is from another. The Helix Racing fuel line came out on top.
> Another reason I use it. If you have doubts about your fuel line try this
> test.
> >From reading your post it sounds as though you have a lot of hours and
> experience in ultralights. I hope we can meet someday and compare notes.
>
> Firehawk
>
> >I had some on my plane for over 10 years without any cracking or
> >deterioration. Add a bypass around the primer bulb.
> >
> >Ralph Burlingame
> >Original FireStar
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DC Powered Vacuum Pump |
>a while back somebody (I believe it was John) suggested a small electrical
>driven compressor as an alternative to a vacuum pump or venturi. He
>especially recommended the UNMP50 from KNF. Their brushless type (for
>permanent operation) costs $ 213.00. The pump will make 2.7 l per min at 4
>Hg. I'm ready to order one from KNF, but I'm somewhat reluctant. Has anybody
>tried such a pump yet?
Is this for normal operations of vacuum instruments? I used
to work for a company that sold STANDBY electrically driven
vacuum pumps . . . they take a LOT of snort . . . like
125 to 300 watts. Got that much extra available full time
from your alternator? . . .
Found this on the internet:
(3) Vacuum loads may be calculated as follows:
(a) Gyroscopic instruments require optimum value of airflow to
produce their rated rotor speed. For instance, a bank and pitch
indicator requires approximately 2.30 cubic feet per minute for its
operation
. . . 2.3 cu feet per minute is about 65 liters per minute
and a resistance or pressure drop of 4.00 inches Hg. Therefore, operating
an instrument requiring 4.00 inches Hg from oneventuri would be marginal.
Similarly, the directional gyro indicator consumes approximately 1.30 cubic
feet per minute and a pressure drop of 4.00 in Hg. . . . It should be noted
that the negative pressure air source must not only deliver the optimum value
of vacuum to the instruments, but must also have sufficient volume capacity
to accommodate the total flow requirements of the various instruments which
it serves.
. . . adding 1.3 cu-ft/min (37 more liters/min) brings the total
up to more than 3.6 cu/ft or 100 liters per minute at 4 in-hg or
better.
Looking at KNF's website, the only pumps capable of this
performance have to plug in the wall. It taks a LOT of
suck to run a vacuum instrument. This may be why those little
engine driven pumps in airplanes are so hard pressed to run
for very long. . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | which compass to buy |
I have my choices down to 2 styles of compasses both
sold by cps inc. the first one is the 2 1/4" airpath flush
mount with adjusting screws, stock # 4305 and the other is
the pedestal mount airpath compass which btw you can not
adjust with screws instead you get an adustment card of some
sort stock # 4307. ok guys whats the diff. and which do you
prefer.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bad News Dept |
In a message dated 7/13/00 3:12:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Flycrazy8(at)aol.com writes:
<<
I too had a engine out except it was over a cotton feild. Was also flying a"
kolb ultrastar "with a "cyuana" engine.Problem was i was only about 100 feet
high. Had to drop the nose and go cotton picking without a sack.lol... No
problem on the landing just rolled about 50 ft and stopped. Had cotton
hanging all over the kolb. A farmer came by to ask what kind of coton picker
that was....lol To this day haven't found the reason for the engine
stoppage...Still flying with the Cyuana.....hasn't missed a lick...Maybe it
don't like the taste of cotton....lol >>
Well Flycrazy ...I better put my cuyunna story in here too cause it is about
the same as the other 4 recent stories. I had a pterodactyl then and had a
resonator on the exhaust outlet of my 30 hp cuyunna which was supposed to
then yield 35 hp or so. A friend of mine had a 503 in his T bird and could
blow me away on speed...but just after takeoff, I tried to catch him
anyway...and I did...just barely catch him and as I was in midwave to him to
show him how fast my pterodactyl could go...shoot i even CAUGHT UP with him
and his BIG engine, my loud resonating 35 hp maker changed its tone to
...silence!...and down I went. I had the option to pick a brown field on the
right or a green one on the left...I could see furrows in the brown one so I
unwisely chose the green one. I dove to the ground to bleed off some energy
and glided up over the protecting tree line and back down to the green field
and came in for a perfect landing ...or a perfect ...really short landing as
the plants ...what ever they were grabbed at my axle and pulled me down fast!
... No damage to anything or anyone!
Never did figure what caused the engine to go silent, so ...I unwisely
again...started the engine (I could smell burnt oil) and took off going back
the same way I had landed and made it safely up over those protective trees
and flew back to my field.
end of story
Morale....I don't really know ...except that now I know that I was
really...lucky! I never found out why the Cuyunna quit on me, I only guess
that it was putting out more HP than it was designed for due to the resonater
muffler overheated and siezed enough to stop. Cooled down on the ground,
unseized and allowed me torestart and fly away. That all happened about 12
years ago.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DC Powered Vacuum Pump |
My understanding is that the "dry" type pump is a little "delicate" due to
the use of sliding carbon vanes that are light, and self lubricating. The
ones I've fooled with had vanes that looked like they were made of the same
material as electric motor brushes. Fragile. The oil type pumps have metal
vanes that are MUCH stronger - they last almost forever - as reference the
vacuum pumps I use in refrigeration, but you pay a weight penalty.
Personally, I think I'd take a 1 or 2 lb penalty for the peace of mind, but
I guess I'm in a minority. Don't think I've ever even seen one for sale -
for aircraft, anyway. Refer Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: DC Powered Vacuum Pump
>
> >a while back somebody (I believe it was John) suggested a small
electrical
> >driven compressor as an alternative to a vacuum pump or venturi. He
> >especially recommended the UNMP50 from KNF. Their brushless type (for
> >permanent operation) costs $ 213.00. The pump will make 2.7 l per min at
4
> >Hg. I'm ready to order one from KNF, but I'm somewhat reluctant. Has
anybody
> >tried such a pump yet?
>
> Is this for normal operations of vacuum instruments? I used
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
This talk of the strobe wires got me to thinking, ha ha. I bought the
Kuntzleman strobes along with the rest of the kit, and ran my fancy wires,
etc. a few months ago. Did a trial mounting of the strobe heads out on the
wing tips, and fussed a bit over mounting methods. My solution is like
everything else of mine - probably over engineered, and a little primitive
looking, but at least it's hell for stout. I even angled them up a little,
to allow the wing tip to rest on the ground during folding/unfolding,
without damaging the strobe head, and also to keep them out of my range of
vision while flying. I think THAT would be a real aggravation. Anyway, my
question(s)..........1. that soft, blue "rubber" that the clear lens
presses over turns out to be very delicate, and I carved one of them up some
with my fingernails. Are they supposed to be that delicate ?? Can you
replace them ?? 2. The clear lenses press on fairly easily over that
soft rubber. Seems like they'd also pop right off again in the slipstream
at speed. How do you guys hold them on ?? Don't think I like the idea of
replacing them for each flight. Cheapskate Lar.
P.S. A vote for the strobes: Quite a few times, I've watched
airplanes, both GA, and UL take off and be silhouetted against a mountain or
whatever. After a few seconds, blink twice, and see if you can find it
again. Even a white one, though they are better. Me for the strobes.
Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
10;19 pm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firerstar ID and structure question |
> Sam,
>
> The difference in the Firestar I and II is that the II has two extra
ribs
> in each wing and a smaller aileron. At least that is what my plans show.
>
> John Jung
> > What is the structural differences between the Firestar I and Firestar
II
> > that accounts for the FS II's higher G.W. limit? In other words, can
a FS
> > I airframe be upgraded to the FS II G.W. capability.
Hi Sam & Kolb gang,
According to the "Book of Kolb" the Firestar has been in production
since 1985. In 1990 some minor styling changes resulted in the KX series.
The rear cage of the original Firestar was covered all the way up to the
bottom of the wing and the KX series only goes about halfway up leaving the
cage open for 360 degree visibility. The cockpit sides were lowered on the
KX series to allow easier entry. The KXP series was the KX with a stronger
wing to accommodate the more powerful Rotax 503. The KXP had 7 ribs per wing
panel versus 5 for the KX. The KXP also has a stronger drag strut. The
current Firestar I and II are identical. The FS I may be built with 5 ribs
per wing panel if you are trying to keep weight to a minimum but you cannot
carry a passenger or use the 503 engine. If you order the FS I kit or have
the FS I kit you can upgrade it to the FS II by adding "The Second Seat
Option" which includes heavy duty gear legs, 2 passenger floor pans, 10
gallon gas capacity, and larger 6" wide tires providing of course that you
have the 7 rib wing. Hope this helps.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Hi Ed,
Don't know how long you have been on the list or how familiar you are with
Dennis Souder, but he is the past President of the Kolb Co. and is
responsible for many of the refinements on the Kolb aircraft. He also tested
a Kolb in high speed dives till he finally broke the wing (drag strut
collapsed if I remember correctly way beyond what the plane is rated at and
has since been strengthened more) and then deployed a BRS. He is one of the
Kolb guru's and you should heed his advice on using the 582 in my humble
opinion. BTW it is great to see that Dennis still peeks at the list
occasionally as his experience is invaluable. Take care.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
>
> I am building a mark3/xtra and ... I will be using a
> short field, 800 ft. usable and will have two people
> on board some of the time.(30%)
>
> The 503 was originally offered in the Mk3 but is no
> longer offered in the XTRA.
> What do you experts think?
>
> At least a 582!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven S. Green" <GREENSS(at)Bowater.com> |
A1-type: MAIL
Bill,
I Shared all your same concerns about the strobe light wiring. I
finally ran mine through the ribs just behind the main spar and secured
it to the first diagonal rib brace behind the spar. I secured it with
multiple wraps on sewing thread and then thinned some 30 min. epoxy with
denatured alcohol and saturated the thread. I don't like plastic wire
ties on aluminum tubing, because of chafing, especially when it is out
of sight. For access later I installed several inspection rings on the
bottom of the wing.
Steven Green
From: "Bill Elder" <billelder(at)denver.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Strobe Wing Wiring
Request from Colorado regarding installation of Kuntzleman dual strobe
wiring on my Mark III. Talked to the quick build guys and they run the
wire through the trailing edge wing tube out to the wing tip. I was
worried about this approach as there are so many rivets in the tube that
the wire might chafe after time, but it would be relatively easy to
replace with minimum tearing into the fabric. But the wire is
substantial, and using wiring ties, it seems like running the wire
inside the wing out to the wingtip would be an OK approach. The
consequences of a wire malfunction however may require massive
recovering. How have you all approached this issue?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill-Jo" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net> |
Woody your test is ok B F
----- Original Message -----
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 7:19 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: test
>
> 10;19 pm
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: which compass to buy |
Gary,
I don't think that the pedestal mount fits in a Kolb with the windshield.
At least I don't recall seeing one. If you need a good compass, and have panel
space, the other one that you mentioned is good. It is like the one that I
currently have. But I don't use it. If I don't know where I am, I turn on my GPS.
I almost never look at the compass, and it seems a shame to waste that panel
space and $50 on a compass. For $100, I could have a spare GPS, or for $2, I
could have a cheap compass for back-up.
John Jung
Gary r. voigt wrote:
>
> I have my choices down to 2 styles of compasses both
> sold by cps inc. the first one is the 2 1/4" airpath flush
> mount with adjusting screws, stock # 4305 and the other is
> the pedestal mount airpath compass which btw you can not
> adjust with screws instead you get an adustment card of some
> sort stock # 4307. ok guys whats the diff. and which do you
> prefer.
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe Wing Wiring |
Bill,
My strobe wires go through the main tube but the trailing edge tube is probably
better.
Make sure that you run the wire along the wing fold joint so that you can fold
it without disconnecting it. You may also want to consider a connector at that
point, so that if you ever need to remove the wings, it will make it easier.
John Jung
Bill Elder wrote:
>
> Request from Colorado regarding installation of Kuntzleman dual strobe
> wiring on my Mark III. Talked to the quick build guys and they run the wire
> through the trailing edge wing tube out to the wing tip. I was worried
> about this approach as there are so many rivets in the tube that the wire
> might chafe after time, but it would be relatively easy to replace with
> minimum tearing into the fabric. But the wire is substantial, and using
> wiring ties, it seems like running the wire inside the wing out to the
> wingtip would be an OK approach. The consequences of a wire malfunction
> however may require massive recovering. How have you all approached this
> issue?
>
> snip...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Hoyt <rrhoyt(at)ieee.org> |
| Subject: | RR: Brake Fluid Leaks |
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Brake Fluid Leaks
Leaky Lar.
I too have had cases of weeping brake fluid. My fix has been to open up
the joint and use two wraps of Teflon pipe joint tape on the pipe threads
and reassemble the joints. The brass to plastic tube joints were fixed
with more compression of the packing gland in the nut. I had to use a
wrench to get them tight enough. At this time all joints are dry.
------------------- Original Message -------------------------------------
Has anyone figured out a way to stop the plastic brake line fittings from
"weeping" ?? I've already replaced 1 reservoir (for $20.00) after
tightening the fitting in the bottom of it too tightly. Now the "T" below
the reservoir has started up, and I've already re-snugged them once. Clean
up is a struggle, and it shouldn't do it anyway. Help.
Leaky Lar.
Mark III N232S
95% built 90% work to do
rrhoyt(at)ieee.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mark III/Xtra advice |
I would like to thank everyone for the great advice on
engines.
If I stay with Rotax, I will definitely go with the
582 based on all the advice received.
Thanks again to all.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: mark III/Xtra advice |
>From: ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com>
>If I stay with Rotax, I will definitely go with the
>582 based on all the advice received.
>Thanks again to all.
>Ed
>
Ed,
When you get the 582 on your MKIII, it maybe a good idea to consult this
list for break-in, care, maintainance, oils to use, coolant to use, and a
host of other things to get you off to a good start for a long of enjoyable
trouble free engine history. I know I have a few things to say about the
582. One is; I like it.
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey fellow flying gangster buds,
I'm looking for information on ultralight insurance other than that
offered by USUA. Some of the property owners at our private airstrip are
asking for liability insurance to cover any "ultralight operation". I was
wondering if any of you have ever needed it, if you got it, what it cost and
through what insurance Company. The airstrip majority is GA. Some have
outright said they didn't like or want anything to do with "ultralights".
They say they are dangerous, like guns and motorcycles :-).
So I guess when I move there I will have to build a fence and tie down my
"ultralight" so it can't get out and attack some of them. Funny, they don't
seem to think that way about their dogs running around on the airstrip.
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe Wing Wiring |
I got a question for the quick build guys, I guess but will throw it out
here as well as food for thought. If you mount your strobe more forward on
the wingtip like most do (and some HAVE to do due to the aileron counter
weights...) how do you get the wire from the trailing edge tube to the
light??? The tube opens on the end and that's where there will be
fabric...Loop it over the outside edge back to the inside of the wing?
Maybe drill a little hole and bend the wire up into the wingtip bow tube
then to your lights???
One other question...I understand that most wingtip strobes/position lights
have a power supply that sends HIGH voltage from the supply to the actual
light...It was my understanding that these needed to be mounted as close as
possible to the strobe itself (i.e. mounted inside the wingtip
somewhere....rivet to back of spar tube???) Anyway the system I am thinking
about is the AeroFlash system that Aircraft Spruce sells (Part no. 156-0049)
I understand the Whelen system is similar. I believe the Kuntzleman system
has a central power supply and keeps all the high voltage current in the
light head itself??? What have you guys done??? Anyone got a power supply
mounted in there wingtip???
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
Bill,
My strobe wires go through the main tube but the trailing edge tube is
probably
better.
Make sure that you run the wire along the wing fold joint so that you can
fold
it without disconnecting it. You may also want to consider a connector at
that
point, so that if you ever need to remove the wings, it will make it easier.
John Jung
Bill Elder wrote:
>
> Request from Colorado regarding installation of Kuntzleman dual strobe
> wiring on my Mark III. Talked to the quick build guys and they run the
wire
> through the trailing edge wing tube out to the wing tip. I was worried
> about this approach as there are so many rivets in the tube that the wire
> might chafe after time, but it would be relatively easy to replace with
> minimum tearing into the fabric. But the wire is substantial, and using
> wiring ties, it seems like running the wire inside the wing out to the
> wingtip would be an OK approach. The consequences of a wire malfunction
> however may require massive recovering. How have you all approached this
> issue?
>
> snip...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Strobe Wing Wiring |
Lots of ways will work. lay the wire under the fabric and glue the fabric
over it to hold it in place. (put it on top so that you won't chafe it on
the ground, etc)
Run it down the inside of the wing and tie it to the ribs with rib
stitching cord.
All you really want is anything that will keep the wire from chafing, as
long as you protect it, anything will work.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I got a question for the quick build guys, I guess but will throw it out
>here as well as food for thought. If you mount your strobe more forward on
>the wingtip like most do (and some HAVE to do due to the aileron counter
>weights...) how do you get the wire from the trailing edge tube to the
>light??? The tube opens on the end and that's where there will be
>fabric...Loop it over the outside edge back to the inside of the wing?
>Maybe drill a little hole and bend the wire up into the wingtip bow tube
>then to your lights???
>One other question...I understand that most wingtip strobes/position lights
>have a power supply that sends HIGH voltage from the supply to the actual
>light...It was my understanding that these needed to be mounted as close as
>possible to the strobe itself (i.e. mounted inside the wingtip
>somewhere....rivet to back of spar tube???) Anyway the system I am thinking
>about is the AeroFlash system that Aircraft Spruce sells (Part no. 156-0049)
>I understand the Whelen system is similar. I believe the Kuntzleman system
>has a central power supply and keeps all the high voltage current in the
>light head itself??? What have you guys done??? Anyone got a power supply
>mounted in there wingtip???
>
>Jeremy Casey
>jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
>
>
>
>Bill,
>
>My strobe wires go through the main tube but the trailing edge tube is
>probably
>better.
>
>Make sure that you run the wire along the wing fold joint so that you can
>fold
>it without disconnecting it. You may also want to consider a connector at
>that
>point, so that if you ever need to remove the wings, it will make it easier.
>
>John Jung
>
>
>Bill Elder wrote:
>
>>
>> Request from Colorado regarding installation of Kuntzleman dual strobe
>> wiring on my Mark III. Talked to the quick build guys and they run the
>wire
>> through the trailing edge wing tube out to the wing tip. I was worried
>> about this approach as there are so many rivets in the tube that the wire
>> might chafe after time, but it would be relatively easy to replace with
>> minimum tearing into the fabric. But the wire is substantial, and using
>> wiring ties, it seems like running the wire inside the wing out to the
>> wingtip would be an OK approach. The consequences of a wire malfunction
>> however may require massive recovering. How have you all approached this
>> issue?
>>
>> snip...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 582 and airplane performance #s |
Hey gang I got some thinking for you,
This may not be what you come up with as numbers for your perticular
application and airplane but for me and my plane with a 582 this is what I
found by doing a little math and using the figures I have accumilated from
numerous XC flights. I had an engineer check my figures and with a few
adjustments this is what we found::
My 582 turning 6000 RPM will propel my airplane at 80 MPH
At 6000 RPM my 582 burns a consistant 4-4.2 GPH.(I know this is lower than
the Rotax Fuel burn chart shows but I have done a few minor modifications to
my engine to make it more fuel efficient.)
If I fly 100 miles at 80 MPH/6000 RPM it will take me 1.17 hours to cover
that distance.
OK, SO FAR?
My 582 turning 5200 RPM will propel my airplane at 65 MPH
At 5200 RPM my 582 burns a consistant 3-3.2 GPH
If I fly 100 miles at 65 MPH/ 5200 RPM it will take me 1.5 hours to cover
that distance.
Here is the surprise:
At 5200 RPM/65 MPH my 582 turns 468,000 revolutions in the 100 miles (+-)
At 6000 RPM/80 MPH my 582 turns 432,000 revolutions in the 100 miles
For the same 100 miles distance covered my 582 turns 36,000 revolutions
"more" at 5200 RPM than it does at 6000 RPM.
The stroke,up and down, on my 582 is 5.04"/ revolution X 36,000 RPM =
181440"
That in turn means: The piston travels a whopping 15120' or 2.8 miles
"farther" at 5200 RPM for the 100 miles than it does at 6000 RPM.
The fuel burn for that distance is only .13 GPH more at 80 MPH.
So, now we all have more to think about. If we can cut down on drag and
lighten our airplanes up a bit we can get even more miles and hours from our
engines. We can also through out the 300 hour rebuilds theary because wear
has as much to do with what RPM you run your engine as the overall hours you
put on your engine. I wonder what RPM Rotax ran their engines to come to the
conclusion that 300 hours would be long enough to need a rebuild?
All I can say for myself is my 582 really puurrs at 6000 RPM and it likes to
run there, so does my airplane. I have approxamately 500 hours on my 582
running it between 5800-6000 in cruise with the same crank and pistons. No,
I haven't decarboned it yet. I will go into it to check it at 600 hours
hobbs time.
I would like to hear from those who have high hours on their engines. It
might make some on the list feel a little better about running Rotax engines
and 2 strokes in general.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
"Dennis Souder"
I am about ready to rig my Mark 3 and spent some time looking through the
plans and manual for all the "don't make a big mess" information. What I
came up with was in the manual where it says to level the 2 square tubes of
the cage by lifting up the tail and level the bottom of the wing. This
means then that the bottom edge of the wing is parallel with the 2 square
tubes (dahhh). Anyway if you mount the tail per the plans , with the
leading edge of the horizontal stab even with the top edge of the boom tube
you are ready to go.
Buuuuutttt there is a remark in the builders manual that says you can lower
or raise the tail to get the tabs welded to the cage to match up (and not
violate the edge distances) of the tab on the steel inboard rib?!?! This
would change the angle of the horizontal tail??? Now the REAL question is
this...I have one of these fancy,smansy digital levels that I have to have
for work that reads out in 1/10's of degrees (very accurate) and wanted to
get the angles right but can't find the actual angles listed anywhere???
Have I missed that piece of trivia somewhere??? Basically if the bottom of
the wing is level then what angle should the horizontal tail be???
Heck I might be swatting at a fly with a barn door but hey, I have the fancy
tool , I might as well use it?!?!?!
Jeremy "Getting picky , again" Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 582 and airplane performance #s |
In a message dated 7/14/00 9:16:11 PM, firehawk54(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< My 582 turning 6000 RPM will propel my airplane at 80 MPH >>
Man, you have a fast bird there! My airplane has half doors and is open above
the gas tanks so it might slow me down some. But, I have some very accurate
true air speeds for you. Indicated of course will be a bit less, depending on
altitude. I suspect some of the speed demons out there are getting high
airspeeds (mach numbers) from their static line/port position being subject
to air flow past the cockpit.
5000 53
5200 55
5500 62
5800 65
6000 68
6700 77 (Flat out)
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 and airplane performance #s |
Yeah ! ! ! That really is food for thought. Thanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: michael highsmith <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 2:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 582 and airplane performance #s
>
> Hey gang I got some thinking for you,
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 and airplane performance #s |
Hi Firehawk;
What year was your 582 built? I have been told that a better crank shaft
was introduced sometime in the mid nineties. My 582 was purchased in
1991 and has the older style crankshaft. I have just over 300 hours and am
starting to question the reliability of the crank, other than the crank
reliability
question, it purrs along just like new. If I was building a new Mark111
I would seriously consider the new 100 hp 912s that is out. I find my 582
underpowered when flying wheel-skis in deep snow with 2 people on board.
Brian "Kim" Steiner
Saskatchewan, Canada
> Hey gang I got some thinking for you,
> This may not be what you come up with as numbers for your perticular
> application and airplane but for me and my plane with a 582 this is what I
> found by doing a little math and using the figures I have accumilated from
> numerous XC flights. I had an engineer check my figures and with a few
> adjustments this is what we found::
>
> My 582 turning 6000 RPM will propel my airplane at 80 MPH
> At 6000 RPM my 582 burns a consistant 4-4.2 GPH.(I know this is lower than
> the Rotax Fuel burn chart shows but I have done a few minor modifications
to
> my engine to make it more fuel efficient.)
> If I fly 100 miles at 80 MPH/6000 RPM it will take me 1.17 hours to cover
> that distance.
>
> OK, SO FAR?
>
> My 582 turning 5200 RPM will propel my airplane at 65 MPH
> At 5200 RPM my 582 burns a consistant 3-3.2 GPH
> If I fly 100 miles at 65 MPH/ 5200 RPM it will take me 1.5 hours to cover
> that distance.
>
> Here is the surprise:
> At 5200 RPM/65 MPH my 582 turns 468,000 revolutions in the 100 miles (+-)
> At 6000 RPM/80 MPH my 582 turns 432,000 revolutions in the 100 miles
> For the same 100 miles distance covered my 582 turns 36,000 revolutions
> "more" at 5200 RPM than it does at 6000 RPM.
>
> The stroke,up and down, on my 582 is 5.04"/ revolution X 36,000 RPM
> 181440"
>
> That in turn means: The piston travels a whopping 15120' or 2.8 miles
> "farther" at 5200 RPM for the 100 miles than it does at 6000 RPM.
>
> The fuel burn for that distance is only .13 GPH more at 80 MPH.
>
> So, now we all have more to think about. If we can cut down on drag and
> lighten our airplanes up a bit we can get even more miles and hours from
our
> engines. We can also through out the 300 hour rebuilds theary because wear
> has as much to do with what RPM you run your engine as the overall hours
you
> put on your engine. I wonder what RPM Rotax ran their engines to come to
the
> conclusion that 300 hours would be long enough to need a rebuild?
> All I can say for myself is my 582 really puurrs at 6000 RPM and it likes
to
> run there, so does my airplane. I have approxamately 500 hours on my 582
> running it between 5800-6000 in cruise with the same crank and pistons.
No,
> I haven't decarboned it yet. I will go into it to check it at 600 hours
> hobbs time.
> I would like to hear from those who have high hours on their engines. It
> might make some on the list feel a little better about running Rotax
engines
> and 2 strokes in general.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rigging angles |
I have only used a smart level once setting up a friends Rans ( no
accounting for bad taste) What a pain in the butt. Trying to get everything
perfect. A bubble level makes everything a lot easier and it will fly just
as good. Of course I may be known on the list as being rude and crude but
heck I can get things to work.
>Heck I might be swatting at a fly with a barn door but hey, I have the fancy
>tool , I might as well use it?!?!?!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 and airplane performance #s |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Denny,
Once the engine is on, rotating the fuselage becomes very problematic. I
do not know about others, but I rolled mine over many times during the
covering, taping, coating process.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
writes:
> Mark 3 ready to cover.
> PS: is covering my fuslage before I have the engine going to cause
> any
> problems?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firerstar ID and structure question |
For Sam Cox.
Sam get you a Mark3 w/582-you will not regret it--believe me! Do not
archive
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 and airplane performance #s |
>
>
>Hi Firehawk;
>What year was your 582 built
Mine is a 95/96. I replaced the crank in it in 98. It had a little over 600
hours on it. I probably could have run it a few more hours but like you I
was concerned about the reliability. I haven't had any problems with the
newer crank either which is pushing 500 hours. I'll take measurements on it
at 600 also.
Thanks
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 and airplane performance #s |
There is a lot of drag around the windshield/door/wing interface that
really slows the MKIII down, and when cleaned up a bit, really speeds it
up. My GPS verifies my airspeeds, corrected for wind and drift. Best top
end so far is 93, no wind, straight and level. It will always get 85, and
usually 88. Some days it just seems to run better than others. Rotax 532, B
box, 2.58:1, 66" 2-blade Ivoprop. The static port is abeam the pitot, 5"
below and even with the front end of the nose fairing.
My project for this next winter (if old age and inertia don't overcome me)
is to make fairing cuffs for the top and bottom of the lift struts,
streamline fairings for the landing gear, and cowl the engine.
The reason? I would love to be the first Old Poop on the block to get a
MKIII to do 100 top end with a clapped out old 532. Probably not possible,
but it keeps me out of worse mischief.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>
>In a message dated 7/14/00 9:16:11 PM, firehawk54(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
><< My 582 turning 6000 RPM will propel my airplane at 80 MPH >>
>
>Man, you have a fast bird there! My airplane has half doors and is open above
>the gas tanks so it might slow me down some. But, I have some very accurate
>true air speeds for you. Indicated of course will be a bit less, depending on
>altitude. I suspect some of the speed demons out there are getting high
>airspeeds (mach numbers) from their static line/port position being subject
>to air flow past the cockpit.
>
>5000 53
>5200 55
>5500 62
>5800 65
>6000 68
>6700 77 (Flat out)
>
>Bill George
>Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
For J Casey.--additional comments -adding to his------
Had a 503DCDI--Magnum--one hell of a engine-built by Danny Day in Tubac
Arizona. Recommend the 582 w/clutch if you can afford it. Only problem
in-High temp-High Humidity area--(Summertime) was getting the cooling
down-with split radiators mounted in rear-one was close to
muffler-definitely heat from muffler was effecting cooling on one radiator.I
disconnected -oil injection-will not discuss reasons why here at this time.
moving split radiators to front of 582-very easy---water pump rotates
perfectly-no problem w/.water pump gasket--a little extra water hose but
weight not a problem.Have digital pictures of installation to include how to
mount radiators in Front--you can see -change -modify- definite improvement
in performance.--Also show VG's on both wings--you can see VG's with your
own eyes.How far back from leading edge of wing-etc--also see mounting
tape.-The VG's were made by John Todd-also on this list-also a club member-
and flies a firestar.
Took digital pictures of instrument panel on Mark3 takeoff,2 on board
cruise-1000'-2000'-3500'cruise--by the way I fly with firehawk and if you
think his is fast-we both have problems keeping up with a clipped wing Rans
S-6--I know we cruise along at 80-on rare occasions 85---and the S-6 flys
circles around us--by the way it is powered by a 582. Firehawks wingman-a
former Kolber flies a challenger-1300 Hrs-Is having a new one--a
hybrid-part-challenger-part Kolb-part Air Cam. Also have it on Digital --in
construction.
Could not send test-performance data to Kolb list because pictures are in
Mime? format and list rejects the message.
I posted a message on list -if anyone wanted test data I would send
pictures to the e-mail address-Have received 374 messages today-Went out of
office as a UL rep almost a year ago and still receive heavy national /
international traffic.Plus 5 rejects from Kolb list---related to
format.Never change anything -day-to day- cyberspace?
You think we have it rough--read this a few minutes ago--from a buddy flying
the 447 on a open-no pod---A model Cobra-that our club helped him get
certified to fly in Australia--Great flight last week. Went up into the
mountains to see a friend.Snow on top of highest peak-6000 feet-Landed right
on top of a table top hill--marginal strip-Had to approach at tree top
level-up the side of the hill-and land on top of the hill--Strip runs steep
down hill-Had to zig-Zag across the hill until I came to a stop.Cold as
hell.Engine temp ( he has a 447) up a bit but OK. Hands and face numb-even
with good gloves on!
Get this-His friend was not home!Going back tomorrow--For those not familiar
with weather conditions in Australia--their season are reversed--summer in
US--winter there.
All U Mountain bad terrain flying Kolbers-come on down to Lower Alabama.
Plenty of Flat --360 acre flat fields -routine! Firehawk will let you see
all his outstanding Aerial Video's shot on numerous XC's and also low level
flights along the Gulf of Mexico.Outstanding Aerial Video's-I have seen a
lot of them! Also routes around alligator infested swamps-and location of
all unknown UN-advertised nudist colonies.
Anyone wanting flight test data with 582--let me know as I will wipe smart
digital card Tuesday or Wednesday. DO NOT ACHIEVE
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BERNDSENCO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Cutting vent hole in lexan |
Hi all,
I have a couple of 3-1/4" vents that I want to install in my Lexan canopy.
Any recommendations on the proper way to cut the holes? Will a regular hole
saw work of do I need a special tool? Any tips would be appreciated.
Jon Berndsen
berndsenco(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting vent hole in lexan |
The hole saw will work fine as long as it's a sharp one. Practice on a
piece of scrap to be sure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting vent hole in lexan |
Jon,
A regular hole saw will work. Take your time to keep it cool, for the best
hole.
John Jung
BERNDSENCO(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I have a couple of 3-1/4" vents that I want to install in my Lexan canopy.
> Any recommendations on the proper way to cut the holes? Will a regular hole
> saw work of do I need a special tool? Any tips would be appreciated.
>
> Jon Berndsen
> berndsenco(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 and airplane performance #s |
Tell us more about those "minor modifications"
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>At 6000 RPM my 582 burns a consistant 4-4.2 GPH.(I know this is lower than
>the Rotax Fuel burn chart shows but I have done a few minor modifications to
>my engine to make it more fuel efficient.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Norhtern CA Seminar 2000 date set |
We have enough interest in a northern California to set a date
for a weekend seminar. The weekend of September 30/October 1 has
been selected. The site will be in Santa Rosa, California. Builders
and aircraft owners are invited to check over the course description
found at http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html
Reservations for this presentation may be entered on the same page.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Elder" <billelder(at)denver.net> |
| Subject: | Strobe Light Wing Wiring |
Listers - thanks for all the advice - I'm installing the wire in the
trailing edge tube, the wire mounted through several wooden balls (got them
at the Hobby store and drilled a hole for the wire) in the area of rivets to
prevent chafing. For Jeremy, the quick build guys drill a hole out at the
end of the tube, then run the wire into the bow tip forward to where the
light mounts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | first flight of the year (3rd solo of my life) |
Well, it was a great day to try it out. Last fall was my first solo in my
open
cockpit twinstar. I also had my second solo flight last year, but I broke a
landing gear. That was it for the year.
Well, after working way too much this summer I finally had time to fly again.
No wind, air temp was about 75 but high humidity. Well, I did a few taxi runs
and then took off. I had a radio & told the airpark owner that the runway
sure
looks small. The got a good laugh.
Well, I was up for about 1 hour & then I came down & didn't break anything.
By the way did I say the wind started blowing across the runway. Not much
but enough to make me (remember I don't have that much flying time yet)
nervous.
Ps. One more note. Another guy did his first solo last night in an mx. He
is still
in one piece as well.
Tomorrow we have one more who wants to solo his first time. weather
permitting. It should bee a good weekend for Cherry Grove Airpark,
Wannamingo MN
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
Deleters, get ready. I'm gonna talk abt GA speed mods.
In a former life I had a stock straight-leg Cardinal. In cleaning it up
with new nose and main gear fairings I found that the Cessna gear leg
strut fairings were fully stalled at cruise attitude--as evidenced by
tufting. Made new fairings from 0.025 Al and attached, after several
tuft-runs, so that they were same angle of incidence as wings. Only
added a little over 1 kt, but maybe they gave enough lift to overcome
the 6-pack in the bag room.
Just a thought for any of you wishing to exceed my 63 mph!!!
bn
http://members.xoom.com/ronoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 and airplane performance #s |
I did Andy's Mk 3 on the gear . I did not have to rotate it. It does
require 2 people on occasion to feed the fabric from one side to the other.
It was a very simple process.
>
>Denny,
>
>Once the engine is on, rotating the fuselage becomes very problematic. I
>do not know about others, but I rolled mine over many times during the
>covering, taping, coating process.
>
>L. Ray Baker
>Lake Butler, Fl
>Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
>
>
>writes:
> > Mark 3 ready to cover.
> > PS: is covering my fuslage before I have the engine going to cause
> > any
> > problems?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting vent hole in lexan |
Score the lexan with a sharp knife before using a hole saw to prevent it
from cracking.
----- Original Message -----
From: <BERNDSENCO(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 5:46 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Cutting vent hole in lexan
>
> Hi all,
> I have a couple of 3-1/4" vents that I want to install in my Lexan canopy.
> Any recommendations on the proper way to cut the holes? Will a regular
hole
> saw work of do I need a special tool? Any tips would be appreciated.
>
> Jon Berndsen
> berndsenco(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cessna21(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron adjustment |
Thanks for the advise! Do not achive!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting vent hole in lexan |
Put a larger flat board behind it. Go slow -
jerryb
>
>Hi all,
>I have a couple of 3-1/4" vents that I want to install in my Lexan canopy.
>Any recommendations on the proper way to cut the holes? Will a regular hole
>saw work of do I need a special tool? Any tips would be appreciated.
>
>Jon Berndsen
>berndsenco(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: She Flew Today! |
Hello Listers,
The ol SlingShot & I finially punched a hole in the sky today. Using a
converted 587 Rotax was a lot of trouble but she has successfully transitioned
from water to air. It was a blustery day & thunder showers came & went. but we
got it dialed in & I'm looking forward to fine tuning the plane & engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 912 Throttle/Choke Cable |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Listers,
In proceeding with the instruction less installation of the 912, I have
ascertained which pair of cables is for the choke and which is for the
throttle, by the small parts included in the respective plastic packages.
Both sets have a very small metal donut, the hole in which is just large
enough to admit the bare cable. Can anyone give me a clue as to how and
where these are used.
The fitting of the throttle cable sleeve to the adjustable knurled
fitting at the carburetor seems very "loosey goosey" (high tech term).
Apparently all that keeps it seated therein is the tension of the cable
and pressure from the splitter housing. I am thinking about enclosing
with shrink tubing.
All or any suggestions, advice or comments on the above will be
appreciated by this bewildered and befuddled first time builder.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ronoy(at)shentel.net |
| Subject: | Info on Discovery/Wings program |
<389E3E01.7D3AB17A(at)warwick.net>
<20000206.212644.8655.4.flybug1(at)juno.com> <389E6247.9C4BD100(at)warwick.net> <396FFDBB.69FC59F8(at)warwick.net>
<397043E5.5E82(at)trikite.com> <39715C4E.5EB8AD18(at)warwick.net>
Listees:
Does anyone know Andy Fields of the Discovery Channel's Wings program?
Does Wings present info in a fairly unbiased form, or does it go along
with the rest of the stupid *news* media, spewing out half-truths?
Have a friend who has been asked to be interviewed on an
aviation-oriented subject, and doesn't want to get *mediaed*.
Thanks
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Kolbers,
While checking out the 912S's on a friends newly built AirCam I noticed
that the choke is not cabled up. I was told that the choke is not
necessary. Just hit the primer and fire them up. He does and they do.
(Boy do they sound sweet!)
This plane was built and is operated in Florida where as a general rule
we do not encounter extreme cold.
Anyone have any experience or comments that would cause me to discredit
this please fire away. At this point I am inclined try it without the
choke.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Ray
Might work in FL, but I doubt it would work well in cold weather. Here in
SE PA, I've flown in 20 degree weather with the 912. I don't have primers
and it takes a little cranking to start and if you turn of the choke off
right after starting, the engine will die. I need to turn the choke of
gradually, 30 to 45 seconds. Summer time primers would probably be fine. I
turn the choke off as soon as the engine starts.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ray L Baker
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2000 2:24 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: More 912 ?'s
Kolbers,
While checking out the 912S's on a friends newly built AirCam I noticed
that the choke is not cabled up. I was told that the choke is not
necessary. Just hit the primer and fire them up. He does and they do.
(Boy do they sound sweet!)
This plane was built and is operated in Florida where as a general rule
we do not encounter extreme cold.
Anyone have any experience or comments that would cause me to discredit
this please fire away. At this point I am inclined try it without the
choke.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Info on Discovery/Wings program <389E3E01.7D3AB17A(at)warwick.net> |
<20000206.212644.8655.4.flybug1(at)juno.com> <389E6247.9C4BD100(at)warwick.net>
<396FFDBB.69FC59F8(at)warwick.net> <397043E5.5E82(at)trikite.com> <39715C4E.5EB8AD18(at)warwick.net>
In a message dated 7/16/00 8:23:30, ronoy(at)shentel.net writes:
<< Does anyone know Andy Fields of the Discovery Channel's Wings program?
Does Wings present info in a fairly unbiased form, or does it go along
with the rest of the stupid *news* media, spewing out half-truths?
>>
Dont know any people associated with Discovery Wings channel but watch it a
lot. they have had good programs on ultralights, EAA, military, etc.
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GOOCHMAC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tail dragger to tricycle? |
Has any body converted a tail dragger to tricycle (on floats?)
Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven S. Green" <GREENSS(at)Bowater.com> |
A1-type: MAIL
**** 07/17/2000 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record 1 ****
A. Type: A Mid Air: N Missing: N Entry date: 07/17/2000
| From: | GREAT LAKES REGION OPERATIONS CENTER |
B. Reg. No.: UNREG M/M: ULTR Desc: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: Other
Descr: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT (KOLB MARK III WITH 2 SEATS) CRASHED ON
TAKE-OFF FROM THE OWNER'S YARD, AND THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT
SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED, OTHER
CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, GWINN, MI.WX: UNKNDamage: Substantial
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
D. Location. City: GWINN State: MI Country: US
E. Event Date: 07/17/2000 Time: 0050
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: GL09 DO City: GRAND RAPIDS
DO State: MI Others: NTSB
G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: GWINN, MI Dep Date: 07/17/2000 Time: 0050
Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: NOther:
Does anyone who this was?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darren Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
| Subject: | 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
Hi group.
Had another interesting experience with my 2SI 460-F-40 last night.
I was flying with a buddy who just purchased a new T-bird around his strip
for about 20 minuets, when I felt the engine "sag". Temps were normal. I
reduced throttle, and reapplied, and could only get about 5000 rpm @ WOT.. I
reduced throttle some, and 30 seconds later I was flying a glider, as the
engine stopped. Luckily I was above 1000', and another buddy's strip. The
landing was good, if a little fast. After calming down, I tried to turn
engine over-- no way. I removed the plugs, found the front plug with the
electrodes smashed togther. Pulled the front cyl. head, and found it full of
ground up needle bearings--Hmmmm. I haven't torn it down any further, but
suspect the wrist pin bearings.
SO-- I may be a slow learner sometimes, but I know I will not be using a
2SI/Cyuna anymore.
Why?? --
*UL II02-- Totally went through,everything, Ran 9 hrs. rear cyl. seizure.
*2SI 460-F-40-- Brand new, went 36.9 hrs, rear cyl. seizure. returned to
2SI, it was out of warranty, but they repaired it N/C. they said the wrist
pin bearing failed. Also, they replaced both cylinders, pistons, and wrispin
bearings.
*Same engine-- 64.4 hrs later, front cyl. needle beairing failure.
I do not abuse my equipment, maintain it properly, and am not a stranger to
2-strokes.
If you fly with one of these, be careful.
If anyone is interested in these, I will be selling them CHEAP. contact me
offlist for more info.
Daren Smalec.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail dragger to tricycle? |
>
>Has any body converted a tail dragger to tricycle (on floats?)
>
>Martin
I suppose you could if you are some kind of girly boy. Real men fly tail
draggers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Finishing tapes & access holes |
Hey Gang,
I am finished covering and have applied the first coat of polybrush. I
plan on putting finishing tapes on all edges of wings and tail pieces
including the ribs of the tail pieces. I would like to know what most folks
on the list do and what size tape is recommended for the leading edges of
the tail pieces. Do you use the same size tape on the leading edge of a
elevator where you have Homer's bumps as you use on the leading edge of the
horizontal stabilizer where there is no bumps? I think 2" tape would be the
right size for the trailing edges of the elev., rudder and ailerons and of
course for the ribs in the tail pieces. Also where do folks recommend
putting access holes? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
If you fly with one of these, be careful.
> If anyone is interested in these, I will be selling them CHEAP. contact
>me
>offlist for more info.
>Daren Smalec.
Darren, Thank you for sharing that experience with us. All of us plane
drivers needs to know about these things. It sounds as though 2SI still has
a long way to go before they have a good engine. Maybe that's why they are
so cheap.
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle/Choke Cable |
Ray,
I thought it was just me that was struggling a bit with the "instruction
less" installation of the 912. I thought I was "just dumb". Thanks for make
me feel not so alone.
Anyway I'll tell you what I think and not what I know for sure. I was going
to put the "shiny metal donuts" inside the particular tubes that they
terminate in. My guess was that they keep the cable centered and prevent
cable abrasion from rubbing on the tube edges when the cables and arms are
moved to their limits.
I also made a mistake that we might both be able to get some help on from
your questions. Being a first time builder, I made an effort to pre-assemble
most everything prior to covering to make sure I had covered all my bases.
One of the cables has a brass sleeve that slides over the choke end. I ended
up screwing the cable up by fraying it. This is like trying to put your
wedding ring down over head and around your neck like your wife thinks it
should be. Maybe someone out there has one of the "piss you off so simple"
ideas on how to get that little brass sleeve on the end of choke cable
without fraying the end of the cable. Also any sources for the 29" choke
cable that I want to replace?
Struggling too,
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Mark III - 912
N308JB (painting)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert F. Bean" <rfbean(at)rochester.infi.net> |
The right tape to put on your tail is the one that looks best to you.
After making
the bend around the tube there should be enough flat surface, top and
bottom
to help hold it down while drying and to look "right". Try a small strip
of each
to judge for yourself. It is only there, if not covering a seam or
overlap, to
provide an abrasion taking function. If you land on a lot of long
grass, eventually
you'll notice the paint wearing off the leading edge of your tail (not
to mention
the stiff brush punching an occasional hole in the bottom of the horiz.
stab.)
On the plus side, tires last forever on grass, at least the tread. BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finishing tapes & access holes |
John,
I also attempted putting finishing tapes on the edges of the small control
surfaces. I think I was a little over confident with how well I had done
with the finishing tapes on the wings. Nice and straight and FLAT. Covering
Homer's bumps was a real challenge for me. I just was not as happy with the
edges over those bumps. I ended up cheating (right or wrong). I put a tape
on the bottom and another tape from the top over those bumps. Only way I
could get the look I wanted. If I had to do it over again I would have
listened to the great John Hauck (who is on a rescue/recovery mission) and
only taped the leading edges that are exposed to rocks, tall grass, bird
parts, and other abrasive/abusive things.
You may not have a problem. Just think about it and good luck. Be sure and
talk to Jim and Dondi at Aircraft Technical. Jim has a method that other
people have been succesful at. I just struggled with it.
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Mark III - 912 (painting)
N308JB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle/Choke Cable |
Not sure if your little brass sleeves are like the ones that CPS sells, but
on theirs, one end has a chamfer to enable it to slide over the cable
easier, while the other end is cut of at 90 degrees. Might be worth a look.
A good source for replacing those little choke cables is a bicycle shop.
Get one of the cables they use for their gear changing cables, etc. That
cable is the right diameter, very tight wound, and solders very well.
A trick to use when soldering your throttle or choke cables:
After putting the cable through the little brass end ferrule, before you
solder it, stick about 3/32" of cable out the cutoff end and take an Exacto
knife or similar and really rats-nest the end of the cable until it will
not readily pull back through the ferrule. Now solder it. You have a much
tighter fit and are using a much thinner layer of solder to provide your grip.
If you do it right (make up a few scraps and practice?) it is almost
impossible to pull the cable through even without soldering.
Makes sense to me that it ought to be stronger and less likely to pull out
that way.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P{ (420ldPoops)
>
>Ray,
>
>I thought it was just me that was struggling a bit with the "instruction
>less" installation of the 912. I thought I was "just dumb". Thanks for make
>me feel not so alone.
>
>I also made a mistake that we might both be able to get some help on from
>your questions. Being a first time builder, I made an effort to pre-assemble
>most everything prior to covering to make sure I had covered all my bases.
>One of the cables has a brass sleeve that slides over the choke end. I ended
>up screwing the cable up by fraying it. This is like trying to put your
>wedding ring down over head and around your neck like your wife thinks it
>should be. Maybe someone out there has one of the "piss you off so simple"
>ideas on how to get that little brass sleeve on the end of choke cable
>without fraying the end of the cable. Also any sources for the 29" choke
>cable that I want to replace?
>
>Struggling too,
>
>John Bickham
>St. Francisville, LA
>Mark III - 912
>N308JB (painting)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Hudson" <phudson(at)iwvisp.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax quiz (getting closer) |
Hi gang,
The latest installment on the 447 quiz.
Last time I'd de-pitched the prop till I saw 6100 RPM..then went after the
temperatures with the jetting.
I began to worry I'd just masked a problem by making it to easy to get the
RPM up.
Sunday I did a leak down test.
I plugged the exhaust (rubber gasket and aluminum plates)
I plugged the intake at the rubber boot (3 oz dixie cup full of epoxy makes
the perfect plug)
pumped up through the pulse port with a syringe pump made for motorcycle
forks (syringe, tube and gauge)
She held 5 psi with no signs off loss for 2 full minutes
after 10 additional minutes she dropped down to 4.5 psi
I'm convinced that's not a problem. I also checked the fan belt and it
seemed about right (a little less than 1/2 inch deflection with about 10
pounds of force)
I also had a look at the rings and pistons. They're clean and free to move.
Plugs didn't look to far off from that last round of testing.
So here I am...Absolutley convinced the fuel delivery is sound, The engine
is healthy (good compression and leak test, etc.) Worried about the prop
setting being to low and the temps too high.
Now as far as the prop goes I had it in about 4 turns (which of course means
nothing) That was 6 to 7 degrees at the tip. The book said to expect about
14 degrees for the rotax 447. Well it turns out that's for a 60 in prop and
mine is a 68 incher. It's hard to find a recommended pitch for the 447 with
a 68 in ivo prop. The couple of hints I've seen indicate it should be about
28 inches of pitch.
Well measuring out to 75% of the blade and doing a little math the 28 in
pitch happens at about 3.5 "turns in" (which is 7+ degrees at the tip.)
I feel a lot better that I'm indeed making the HPs now it's just the high
temps and big jets problem.
After all this I'll probably be more confident in my engine than anyone.
Since the carb is the last unknown potential problem and they only cost $150
I'm just going to get a new one before tuning the jets for good.
One question in the interest of cool headedness..does anyone run with rubber
boots to seal the big spark plug access hole in the shroud? I imagine that
would be good for a few degrees off the CHT. I'd even consider a mister
system in front of the fan for our three digit days out here in the desert,
just for CHT emergengies and max power climbs
That's all for now,
-Peter-
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finishing tapes & access holes |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
John,
I used 3" on all edges and 2" on all the rest.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patty M" <pattym(at)lushen.com> |
Our fellow pilot was Kent Mead.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven S. Green <GREENSS(at)Bowater.com>
Date: Monday, July 17, 2000 12:42 PM
>
>**** 07/17/2000 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record 1 ****
>A. Type: A Mid Air: N Missing: N Entry date: 07/17/2000
>From: GREAT LAKES REGION OPERATIONS CENTER
>B. Reg. No.: UNREG M/M: ULTR Desc: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT
>Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: Other
>Descr: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT (KOLB MARK III WITH 2 SEATS) CRASHED ON
> TAKE-OFF FROM THE OWNER'S YARD, AND THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT
> SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED, OTHER
> CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, GWINN, MI.WX: UNKNDamage: Substantial
>C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> # Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
>D. Location. City: GWINN State: MI Country: US
>E. Event Date: 07/17/2000 Time: 0050
>F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: GL09 DO City: GRAND RAPIDS
>DO State: MI Others: NTSB
>G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: GWINN, MI Dep Date: 07/17/2000 Time: 0050
>Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
>Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: NOther:
>
>Does anyone who this was?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle/Choke Cable |
Just right, and one more small thing for thought..............cable is made
with a lubricant in between the strands, to promote sliding of the strands
when going around a pulley, etc. After frazzling the end of the cable,
degrease it thoroughly, then flux and solder it. You'll get much better
flow and adhesion at a much lower temperature. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 912 Throttle/Choke Cable
>
> Not sure if your little brass sleeves are like the ones that CPS sells,
but
> on theirs, one end has a chamfer to enable it to slide over the cable
> easier, while the other end is cut of at 90 degrees. Might be worth a
look.
> A good source for replacing those little choke cables is a bicycle shop.
> Get one of the cables they use for their gear changing cables, etc. That
> cable is the right diameter, very tight wound, and solders very well.
> A trick to use when soldering your throttle or choke cables:
> After putting the cable through the little brass end ferrule, before you
> solder it, stick about 3/32" of cable out the cutoff end and take an
Exacto
> knife or similar and really rats-nest the end of the cable until it will
> not readily pull back through the ferrule. Now solder it. You have a much
> tighter fit and are using a much thinner layer of solder to provide your
grip.
> If you do it right (make up a few scraps and practice?) it is almost
> impossible to pull the cable through even without soldering.
> Makes sense to me that it ought to be stronger and less likely to pull out
> that way.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P{ (420ldPoops)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing tapes & access holes |
Here's a long'un. If not covering, prepare to Delete.
Boy, here's my favorite part of building............! ! ! Jim Miller's
method of taping - as interpreted by me - ( how's that for a disclaimer ?? )
is this: Put the tape in position dry, and mark the high points with a
pencil. That is, hold the tape over the "bumps" on each side of the
surface, in the position it'll be in when glued down. This will make it
snug over the bumps, and slack in between. After marking the high points,
"connect the dots" in a straight line. Now experience talks........... I
used too much poly brush on the 1st try, and made an awful
mess.........spread JUST a 1/2" line of poly brush down the pencil line,
no more, and stick the tape down, keeping the edges right on the pencil
line. This will give you straight tape edges, with baggy sections. Use the
iron at increasing temps to shrink the tape, and DON'T heat the edges.
Only the center portion of the tape, or you'll pull the glue loose. After
shrinking, go ahead and poly brush the whole thing. OK, now for the
controversy. On mine, I used 2" tape, and had intermittent problems with
not enuf shrinkage - probably due to my skill level, and sloppy gluing -
leaving hard, tight creases that were impossible to remove, so I removed the
tape and started over. Twice. When I went whining to Jim, he suggested
using the 3" tape - more shrinkage available. Makes sense, but I haven't
tried it yet. Also, going around a corner, ( bad enuf ) and over a bump,
too.............as on the lower trailing edge of the rudder..............is,
so far.............beyond my simple skills. Oh yeah, I did it..........and
tore it off.........twice..........and that's where Vamoose sits today.
The reason I feel good about presenting this, even tho' I'm not happy with
mine so far, is that I can clearly see, that with a little more practise, it
really will do a beautiful job. Another suggestion of Jim's, is
that in going around corners, don't worry too much about doing the whole
thing by shrinking the tape. Shrink it part way, then carefully cut darts
out of the fabric, so that the cut edges lay smoothly together, then goober
them down. When painted, the cuts won't show. I've already found out that
this, too, needs some practise. Don't let the drying glue, and short work
time stampede you. Take your time, and don't be shy about talking to Jim
Miller. He's a great resource, and a really great person - as well as being
a Corporate Jet Pilot. Sorry Jim, hadda get that in there.
Mekky Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <BICUM(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Finishing tapes & access holes
>
> John,
>
> I also attempted putting finishing tapes on the edges of the small control
> surfaces. I think I was a little over confident with how well I had done
> with the finishing tapes on the wings. Nice and straight and FLAT.
Covering
> Homer's bumps was a real challenge for me. I just was not as happy with
the
> edges over those bumps. I ended up cheating (right or wrong). I put a
tape
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon Steiger <jon(at)twistedbits.net> |
| Subject: | Inactive engine prep |
My 447 powered FireFly has been sitting for over a year without having
been flown or even having the engine run. I was just wondering what you
listers recommend I do to it prior to firing it up again and prior to
flight? I was already planning to replace all of the fuel lines as a
matter of course, and I'm planning to install fresh spark plugs, but was
wondering what else should be done? Will I need to go inside the
engine? Should I pour some oil down the plug holes for initial
lubrication? Unfortunately, the engine was not prepped for storage in any
way. (Long story; basically I didn't plan for it to sit this long, one
thing led to another, yadda yadda yadda...) The engine has about 70 hours
on it.
Many thanks in advance for any advice you can give me!
-Jon-
.--- Jon Steiger ---- jon(at)dakota-truck.net or stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu ---.
| Affiliations: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA; Rec & UL Pilot - SEL |
| '92 Ram 150 4x4 V8, '96 Dakota V8, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly 447 |
`------------------------------ http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ----'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: She Flew Today! |
Congratulations, Richard, but I'm surprised. I thought you were flying long
ago. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 7:45 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: She Flew Today!
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> The ol SlingShot & I finially punched a hole in the sky today. Using
a
> converted 587 Rotax was a lot of trouble but she has successfully
transitioned
> from water to air. It was a blustery day & thunder showers came & went.
but we
> got it dialed in & I'm looking forward to fine tuning the plane & engine.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)tetric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing tapes & access holes |
>Hi,
>I plan on putting finishing tapes on all edges of wings and tail pieces
>including the ribs of the tail pieces.
Tape only overlaps. Don't do the trailing edges. Only tape ribs or
fuselage braces that might cause vibration (drumming) cuts in the
Stits. That eliminates all outside corners. Use Stits tape to protect any
potential sharp edge. Use false rib stitching on vert.stab where drumming
will occur.
>...leading edges of
>the tail pieces.
>2" most everywhere. Isn't 3" used for the leading edge and bow of the
>main wing?
>Do you use the same size tape on the leading edge of a
>elevator where you have Homer's bumps as you use on the leading edge of the
>horizontal stabilizer where there is no bumps?
>Yes.
>I think 2" tape would be the
>right size for the trailing edges of the elev., rudder and ailerons
None needed... please. All that does is add mass exactly where you do not
want it... possibly causing flutter.
>...for the ribs in the tail pieces.
Maybe... maybe not. I didn't put any tapes on ribs that I did not also
rivet like the main wing. I figured if it need a tape it also needed to be
fastened to the rib to prevent vibration (drumming) damage.
> Also where do folks recommend
>putting access holes?
None needed unless you want one to inspect the drag strut brace bolt.
Burn some drain holes into the lowest point of all parts... fuse too. You
will spill fuel sooner or later.
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: first flight of the year (3rd solo of my life) |
Just right, take your time, and be careful. Good luck. Envious
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Mhqqqqq(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2000 2:27 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: first flight of the year (3rd solo of my life)
>
> Well, it was a great day to try it out. Last fall was my first solo in my
> open
> cockpit twinstar. I also had my second solo flight last year, but I broke
a
> landing gear. That was it for the year.
>
> Well, after working way too much this summer I finally had time to fly
again.
> No wind, air temp was about 75 but high humidity. Well, I did a few taxi
runs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Attaching the Tailboom Last |
Hey, Kolb Gang -
I'd like to pass on a construction tip that I discovered which some
folks may find helpful. It deals with the timing of the construction
process - specifically, when in the process do you permanently attach
the tailboom ? Or, my question was: Can I attach the tailboom
AFTER the fuselage cage is covered?
Here's why this question is important to me: (Those of you with the
wonderful luxury of large shops & big hangars, hit 'delete' now.)
Simply, it's a matter of building space.
I'm building my Mark-III in a one-car garage. That's my whole shop.
One of the (several) wonderful things about the Kolb, is that you
can build it modularly (a piece at a time) in a relatively small space.
Biggest single component is a wing. And we usually work on only one
piece at a time, so with the other pieces stored somewhere else, a
one-car garage shop can actually be adequate to build an airplane! (Of
course, there are the couple of times in mid-build where all pieces must
come together, like for wing-rigging, fuselage tube attach't drills,
etc.) So, until I'm ready for the trailer/airport routine (which I'm
not), limited-space builders like me want to keep the pieces apart until
the last possible minute.
The instructions say to attach the tailboom tube permanently to the cage
prior to fabric covering. For me, that exceeds the length of my
garage - can't work there anymore if I cannot close the garage door. I
wished I could finish the fuselage pod completely - fabric covered,
engine installed, electrical installed, nosecone, instrument panel,
windshield, seats, brakes, fuel system, all of it - before attaching the
tailboom.
Well, as it turned out, that's exactly what I did - put the tailboom on
last, and here's the easy way to do it:
Get a piece of six-inch PVC pipe (used in big irrigation & wells),
approx 3 ft long, and jam that right in place in the cage bottom where
the real tube would go, and drill thru and install the 3/8" bolt, as it
would go through the real tube. Secured in place, that PVC now gives
you the form that allows you to fabric cover over it. The plastic tube
then comes out when final assembly occurs, way at the end of the
building timeline. (By then, hopefully, I'd have a trailer!)
Now I can finish most of the fuselage details (and there are LOTS of
'em) by keeping the pod separate from the tailboom until the end.
I hope somebody finds this helpful.
( Am I the first one to discover this, or is this old news? )
Dennis Kirby
first-time-builder, Mk-III s/n 300, in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 07/17/00 |
Trick on Applying finishing tapes:
First - don't use bias tape - use regular tape. Glue the tape to the
straight portion on both sides of the curve area but stop about two inches
before the curve starts and about two inches after the curve stop. Working
slowly, iron the tape until it fits nicely. Then glue the tape down.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching the Tailboom Last |
Dennis,
I sound like you haven't finished the installation of the real boom
yet. Did you install and drill the aluminum boom before covering? You
didn't mention it, but I think that it is an important step.
John Jung
Dennis & Diane Kirby wrote:
>
> Hey, Kolb Gang -
>
> I'd like to pass on a construction tip that I discovered which some
> folks may find helpful. It deals with the timing of the construction
> process - specifically, when in the process do you permanently attach
> the tailboom ? Or, my question was: Can I attach the tailboom
> AFTER the fuselage cage is covered?
snip....
> Get a piece of six-inch PVC pipe (used in big irrigation & wells),
> approx 3 ft long, and jam that right in place in the cage bottom where
> the real tube would go, and drill thru and install the 3/8" bolt, as it
> would go through the real tube. Secured in place, that PVC now gives
> you the form that allows you to fabric cover over it. The plastic tube
> then comes out when final assembly occurs, way at the end of the
> building timeline. (By then, hopefully, I'd have a trailer!)
>
> Now I can finish most of the fuselage details (and there are LOTS of
> 'em) by keeping the pod separate from the tailboom until the end.
>
> I hope somebody finds this helpful.
> ( Am I the first one to discover this, or is this old news? )
>
> Dennis Kirby
> first-time-builder, Mk-III s/n 300, in
> Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: She Flew Today!(Saturday) |
Kolbers,
I was exhausted Saturday nite & didn't give much details on my 1st flight
with
SlingShot #003. So you 582 pilots can compare, the 587 motor was originally in
a
SeaDoo personal watercraft. The bore/stroke & most of its parts are identical to
the 582. The rear 1/3 of the crankshaft had to be pressed off & replaced with
one that had a tapered end. The case had to be machined, drilled & tapped to
accept a Rotax gear box. We put a 582 water pump & thermostat housing on it,
with a 180 dgree auto thermostat that we cut to fit & drilled two 1/8" holes in
to allow constant circulation & bleeding of air. We had to completely rejet all
three sections of the two Mikuni BN altitude compensating, diaphram
carburators. We exchanged the stock 132 degree rotary valve (which is also in
the 582) with a little higher performance 147 degree valve. The radiator is
from a VW Rabbit.
Because the carbs have a returning fuel line, that complicated my goal to
have the
rear tank empty 1st without using valves. Coming up with a way to refuel the
inaccessable fuel tanks without crawling into the back with small gas cans was
also
a challenge. I am shamefully proud of the elegant but simple solution I ended
up
with. I'll post pics of it when I get my webpage up.
I did the 1st flight on a private 1/2 mile grass strip. We spent 3 days
making
sure the engine will live at full throttle without any worry & that was a major
ace
in the hole when it all came down to the wire to fly it for the 1st time. The
60",
3 blade, wide paddle Precision Propellor with p-tips inlaid, was set at 16
degrees
of pitch, yielding a full throtle static pull of 6000rpm with 315 degree CHT &
980
degree EGT on the mag cylinder (hottest). The wind was a gusting 10- 20mph as
a
45
degree cross wind. It was 98 degrees F & 100% humidity, 100ft above sea level.
I
taxied with the tail up to get used to the rudder & throttle ( a motor cycle
throttle on the joy stick), did a couple of crow hops, flew down the runway
about a
foot off the ground for awhile, then went for it. Full throttle climb out at
50mph
had CHT of 315, EGT of 960 & 6000rpm (interestingly the prop didnot unload at
all). Climbed to the 1200ft ceiling & tried to do some stalls. It wouldn't
break,
just mushed at 35mph indicated, with a 350fpm sinkrate, using a 5000rpm throttle
&
about 3 degrees of flaperon. It maintained controlable flight at 41mph &
4000rpm.
5500rpm showed 60mph. Straight & level full throttle yielded 6300rpm, 980 EGT &
310 CHT & a speed of 75mph. In all settings the water tempt never exceeded 180
degrees. The prop had too much pitch & we dropped it to 14 degrees. Static
pull
full throttle then yielded 6300rpm, 312 CHT, & 1050 EGT. The take off rolled
was
dramatically reduced & it leaped into the air. Full throttle climbout at 50mph
showed 6540rpm (here prop unloaded 200rpm from static) 315 CHT & 1040 EGT.
Straight & level wide open throttle got up to 6850rpm & stopped & backed off.
CHT
was 320, EGT was 1080 & ASI showed 85 mph & the windshield was bowing in.
The weather broke & I played around a little bit. The controls are very fast
& lite in
roll & pitch. It feels instantaneous yet there is no tendency to over control.
It
seemed like I just had to think it & the plane would do it. I did some 3/4
power
near vertical stalls & rotated 180 degrees as the nose fell through. Speed went
from 20mph on top to 80mph after a gentle pull up. The visibility was stunning.
As the horizon rotated, I felt like I was just stuck out in front of the wing
with
no cabin at all. At cruise I could see above & behind the leading edge, below
&
behind the wing, straight down below each shoulder & with just a touch of bank,
even below & to the other side. The plane flys smooth & rock solid. Dennis
should
be aweful proud of this incredible flying machine.
Two parameters do not seem to fall in line. The rate of climb showed 600fpm
on
both prop settings even though the 1st had a long take off role & the 2nd it
leaped
up after about 150ft. The 2nd anomaly is that my buddy in a Piper Cherokee said
he
chased me around the pattern twice, trying to catch up & there is no way I could
of
only been doing 70mph. The ASI & VSI share the same static port & it may have
a
problem.
With 2 hr of day light left, we packed it up. I was exhausted. It was an
emotionally gruelling day. The intensity & extreme focus did not lend to a
sense
of having fun but it was exciting & immensely satisfying. I can't wait for a
better day & learn more about the plane. ...Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record |
Group,
I did a search on "Kent" and found that he was from the UP of Michigan
and he bought a 1985 Firestar in 1997. In 1998 he started flew it for the
first time. I met him at the Kolb tent that year. He brought foam for seats
to give to any fellow Kolbers that wanted it. Last year he was replacing the
front of the nose and gear on the Firestar. He had written about his own
strip with trees on the end. I didn't find any mention of a Mark III.
John Jung
Patty M wrote:
>
> Our fellow pilot was Kent Mead.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steven S. Green <GREENSS(at)Bowater.com>
> To: Kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, July 17, 2000 12:42 PM
>
> >
> >**** 07/17/2000 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record 1 ****
> >A. Type: A Mid Air: N Missing: N Entry date: 07/17/2000
> >From: GREAT LAKES REGION OPERATIONS CENTER
> >B. Reg. No.: UNREG M/M: ULTR Desc: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT
> >Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: Other
> >Descr: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT (KOLB MARK III WITH 2 SEATS) CRASHED ON
> > TAKE-OFF FROM THE OWNER'S YARD, AND THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT
> > SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED, OTHER
> > CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, GWINN, MI.WX: UNKNDamage: Substantial
> >C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> > # Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> > # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> >D. Location. City: GWINN State: MI Country: US
> >E. Event Date: 07/17/2000 Time: 0050
> >F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: GL09 DO City: GRAND RAPIDS
> >DO State: MI Others: NTSB
> >G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: GWINN, MI Dep Date: 07/17/2000 Time: 0050
> >Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
> >Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: NOther:
> >
> >Does anyone who this was?
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle/Choke Cable |
Good catch. I'd forgotten that they pre-lube those things.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Just right, and one more small thing for thought..............cable is made
>with a lubricant in between the strands, to promote sliding of the strands
>when going around a pulley, etc. After frazzling the end of the cable,
>degrease it thoroughly, then flux and solder it. You'll get much better
>flow and adhesion at a much lower temperature. Big Lar.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 7:06 PM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 912 Throttle/Choke Cable
>
>
>>
>> Not sure if your little brass sleeves are like the ones that CPS sells,
>but
>> on theirs, one end has a chamfer to enable it to slide over the cable
>> easier, while the other end is cut of at 90 degrees. Might be worth a
>look.
>> A good source for replacing those little choke cables is a bicycle shop.
>> Get one of the cables they use for their gear changing cables, etc. That
>> cable is the right diameter, very tight wound, and solders very well.
>> A trick to use when soldering your throttle or choke cables:
>> After putting the cable through the little brass end ferrule, before you
>> solder it, stick about 3/32" of cable out the cutoff end and take an
>Exacto
>> knife or similar and really rats-nest the end of the cable until it will
>> not readily pull back through the ferrule. Now solder it. You have a much
>> tighter fit and are using a much thinner layer of solder to provide your
>grip.
>> If you do it right (make up a few scraps and practice?) it is almost
>> impossible to pull the cable through even without soldering.
>> Makes sense to me that it ought to be stronger and less likely to pull out
>> that way.
>> Richard Pike
>> MKIII N420P{ (420ldPoops)
>>
>>
>
>
June 28, 2000 - July 18, 2000
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ce