Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cf
July 18, 2000 - August 03, 2000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Inactive engine prep |
There is a good chance that your idle jets are gummed closed.
I'd disassemble the carb and clean everything real good.
I would leave the old plugs in for the initial start up,
and run it at about 3,000 RPM with the choke on a while to get an
extra dose of oil everywhere, especially up around the wrist pin bearings.
Then shut it down and put in the new plugs.
Unless you have had an oil seal dry out, or some rust form somewhere,
I would expect it to be OK.
But I would also stay over the big friendly landing strip for the first 15
minutes,
just to be on the safe side. It can't hurt.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> My 447 powered FireFly has been sitting for over a year without having
>been flown or even having the engine run. I was just wondering what you
>listers recommend I do to it prior to firing it up again and prior to
>flight? I was already planning to replace all of the fuel lines as a
>matter of course, and I'm planning to install fresh spark plugs, but was
>wondering what else should be done? Will I need to go inside the
>engine? Should I pour some oil down the plug holes for initial
>lubrication? Unfortunately, the engine was not prepped for storage in any
>way. (Long story; basically I didn't plan for it to sit this long, one
>thing led to another, yadda yadda yadda...) The engine has about 70 hours
>on it.
>
> Many thanks in advance for any advice you can give me!
>
> -Jon-
>
> .--- Jon Steiger ---- jon(at)dakota-truck.net or stei0302(at)cs.fredonia.edu ---.
> | Affiliations: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA; Rec & UL Pilot - SEL |
> | '92 Ram 150 4x4 V8, '96 Dakota V8, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly 447 |
> `------------------------------ http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/ ----'
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inactive engine prep |
> My 447 powered FireFly has been sitting for over a year
> Many thanks in advance for any advice you can give me!
>
> -Jon-
Hey Jon,
Do what Richard said, good advice. Also if it were mine I'd take a good look
at the fuel pump. Not always, but sometimes the diaphram will dry out and
crack. It will then either give the engine a lean mixture at full throttle
thus the possibility of seizure or it may start leaking into the crankcase
which might cause a failure anyway. For my butt I'd at least consider it
before I flew with it very far. A new fuel pump would be cheap insurance.
Then if you find the old one OK you would always have a spare.
Jus' thin'n
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax quiz (getting closer) |
>
>
>Now as far as the prop goes I had it in about 4 turns (which of course means
>nothing) That was 6 to 7 degrees at the tip. The book said to expect about
>14 degrees for the rotax 447. Well it turns out that's for a 60 in prop and
>mine is a 68 incher. It's hard to find a recommended pitch for the 447 with
>a 68 in ivo prop. The couple of hints I've seen indicate it should be about
>28 inches of pitch.
Sounds like you are trying to turn to big a prop. any chance you could
borrow a smaller prop to try out.
The desert conditions are far removed from the 60* sea level readings
used to set the original performance jettings. Vastly different climate
will result in vastly different jetting I would think. The carb itself is
probably not in need of replacement.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inactive engine prep |
----- Original Message -----
From: "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com>
> Hey Jon,
> Do what Richard said, good advice. Also if it were mine I'd take a good
look
> at the fuel pump. Not always, but sometimes the diaphram will dry out and
> crack. It will then either give the engine a lean mixture at full throttle
> thus the possibility of seizure or it may start leaking into the crankcase
> which might cause a failure anyway. For my butt I'd at least consider it
> before I flew with it very far. A new fuel pump would be cheap insurance.
> Then if you find the old one OK you would always have a spare.
> Jus' thin'n
> Firehawk
Good advice, but if you have a Mikuni pump it's cheaper to rebuild it. get a
new diaphragm, clean the pump real good, install it, and change the pulse
line.
Geoff Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inactive engine prep |
>Good advice, but if you have a Mikuni pump it's cheaper to rebuild it. get
>a
>new diaphragm, clean the pump real good, install it, and change the pulse
>line.
>
>Geoff Thistlethwaite
>
Hey Geoff and gang,
Yes it is cheaper to rebuild it but I have found that everybody, for some
unknown reason, can't seem to reassemble the pump so that it operates
properly. I use to give the same advice until one of our club members almost
had a real problem with one he had rebuilt. After, that I advise to buy new
and have the old one as a spare just in case it is a last resort. It is only
a few bucks more for the whole pump and the shipping is about the same for
either. If you fly a lot there is the possibility that you might not have to
replace the pump for hundreds of hours, or several years, at least I
haven't. I replaced my pulse pump around 400 hours, not because it had
failed but because it had not failed. I replaced it with a new one, I
cleaned the old one and I have it as a spare in a plastic zip lock bag. The
newest one I installed has around 650 hours on it. All this to say, that the
pumps are usually very dependable unless you ever let them dry completely
out.
Keep on thin'n
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon" <jon(at)joncroke.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record |
Hi all,
I am sorry to lose a friend and flying buddy in this tragic accident. Kent
lived in the UP of Michigan and on several occasions flew over the waters of
Green Bay in his Firestar to land in my back yard. I first met Kent at Sun
n Fun 2 years ago all the way down in Fla only to discover that we were
practically neighbors.
Apparently, no one saw him go down Sunday night, and his wrecked plane was
found not far from his home. It appears his chute was partially deployed.
The FAA made a mistake in identifying the make of plane (it was not a Mark).
Be careful out there..... !
Jon
Near Green Bay
www.ultralightpilot.com
>
> Group,
>
> I did a search on "Kent" and found that he was from the UP of
Michigan
> and he bought a 1985 Firestar in 1997. In 1998 he started flew it for the
> first time. I met him at the Kolb tent that year. He brought foam for
seats
> to give to any fellow Kolbers that wanted it. Last year he was replacing
the
> front of the nose and gear on the Firestar. He had written about his own
> strip with trees on the end. I didn't find any mention of a Mark III.
>
> John Jung
>
> Patty M wrote:
>
> >
> > Our fellow pilot was Kent Mead.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Steven S. Green <GREENSS(at)Bowater.com>
> > To: Kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Monday, July 17, 2000 12:42 PM
> >
> > >
> > >**** 07/17/2000 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record 1 ****
> > >A. Type: A Mid Air: N Missing: N Entry date: 07/17/2000
> > >From: GREAT LAKES REGION OPERATIONS CENTER
> > >B. Reg. No.: UNREG M/M: ULTR Desc: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT
> > >Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: Other
> > >Descr: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT (KOLB MARK III WITH 2 SEATS) CRASHED ON
> > > TAKE-OFF FROM THE OWNER'S YARD, AND THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT
> > > SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED, OTHER
> > > CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, GWINN, MI.WX: UNKNDamage: Substantial
> > >C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> > > # Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> > > # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
> > >D. Location. City: GWINN State: MI Country: US
> > >E. Event Date: 07/17/2000 Time: 0050
> > >F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: GL09 DO City: GRAND RAPIDS
> > >DO State: MI Others: NTSB
> > >G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: GWINN, MI Dep Date: 07/17/2000 Time: 0050
> > >Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
> > >Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: NOther:
> > >
> > >Does anyone who this was?
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing tapes & access holes |
John C. -
I asked this same question six months ago on the list. Regarding the
locations of inspection covers, here's the advice I went with:
For Wings - Install 3 per wing: 1) On inboard face of root rib, just
aft of the spar attach lug; 2) On wing bottom, just aft of the lift
strut attachment fitting; 3) On wing bottom, just outboard of spar end
and slightly forward of spar centerline. These locations (with the use
of a small pocket mirror) will give you visibility to pretty much all
you need to look at inside your wing for the normal life of your plane.
For Fuselage - I installed 2 inspection covers: One directly under the
Matco hydraulic brake cylinders (for maintenance access/removal);
and the other cover is under the passenger-side seat. Reason for this
one is for access to my electrical system, which is installed there. (I
installed an electrical panel - switches, fuse panel, etc. - on the
sloping floor panel directly under passenger's knees. I don't need to
see it while flying, but my right hand "knows" where all the switches
are by feel. An easy reach.)
Hope this helps -
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, s/n 300, about 80 percent finished
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Very interesting! I'm building a Mark III Extra and have been thinking
about the Jabiru engine. No gears for speed reduction, no liquid cooling
system & parts, lighter weight, etc. A number of other kitplanes are using
it. It would be nice to hear from Kolb what their thoughts and decisions
were on using the Jabiru.
Rody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
Very interesting! I'm building a Mark III Extra and have been thinking
about the Jabiru engine. No gears for speed reduction, no liquid cooling
system & parts, lighter weight, etc. A number of other kitplanes are using
it. It would be nice to hear from Kolb what their thoughts and decisions
were on using the Jabiru.
Rody
My thoughts on the Jabiru/Kolb combo...
direct drive engine that needs to spin up somewhere near 3000 RPM to make
good HP (similar to VW conversions) That is fine and dandy in itself , but
due to propeller design and the fact that you have to limit the tip speeds
to no more than approx. .8 mach to stay efficient you have to run a smaller
diameter propeller. Second basic fact is that at slower speeds like our
Kolbs fly at , a big slow turning prop is more efficient than a small fast
turning prop. SOOOOOOO , with a narrow fuselage like the Firestar or now
Kolbra the smaller prop might be a acceptable choice as there is less
"dirty" (or disturbed) air going into the prop but on something like the
Mark3 I think the smaller prop would take a performance hit. The whole
point of the redesign of the Mark3X was more to clean up the flow of air
into the prop than to "reduce drag". Yea it reduced drag , especially at
the wing to windshield joint but cleaning up the flow into the prop
increased the prop efficiency...like getting extra HP for free.
As far as the reason TNK put a Jabiru on the Kolbra I have 2 guesses...AND
THEY ARE MY GUESSES , HAVEN'T TALKED TO NORM OR CHRIS ABOUT IT , JUST MY
GUESSES...
1. The Jabiru is a pretty lightweight engine...They might have been close to
the 496 lbs. 2-place trainer weight limit and needed to shave a few pounds
off the 912 installation weight...Being air-cooled the Jabiru is a lighter
installation.
2. They were trying to get the thing ready to introduce at Oshkosh and the
Jabiru was a SIMPLE installation...no hoses or thermostats or radiators or
overflow bottles , etc... I think the Jabiru sometimes has an oil cooler is
about it.
There is my 2 cents worth , an worth every penny you paid for it:)
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
P.S. Maybe TNK is using the Jabiru to send a message to Rotax to be nicer or
we'll all go fly somebody else's engine!!! ;)
I'm sure Rotax is shaking in their bank vault now!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Building web pages |
OK Larry, here is a link to some free programs to build Kolb web pages
with, upload them, etc.
Also, Netscape Communicator has a web page building function in it.
Microsoft Front Page Express has one also.
Word Perfect 8 & 9 also have one, but not as good.
I used Adobe Page Mill for mine, easy to use, but hard to learn because the
instructions stink.
Cost about $60 at the local college bookstore. (soft ware is always cheaper
at such places I think)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
NOW LETS SEE THAT KOLB PAGE!
http://www.preferred.com/software_updates.html#html
Do Nor Archive
[DEFAULT]
BASEURL=http://www.preferred.com/software_updates.html
[InternetShortcut]
URL=http://www.preferred.com/software_updates.html#html
Modified=4020237D8DF1BF013E
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Building web pages |
In a message dated 7/19/00 4:50:13, richard(at)BCChapel.org writes:
<< I used Adobe Page Mill for mine, easy to use, but hard to learn because the
instructions stink. >>
Pagemill is the easiest and quickest but lacks some of the gee whiz stuff. I
am using Adobe GoLive 4.0, which is expensive and has a pretty healthy
learning curve.
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
I was able to find this link to the loss of the Kolb pilot:
http://www.upgroup.com/journal/loclnews.html
Condolences to his family.
Clay Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
Seems like I heard someone grumbling that they were having trouble putting a stranded
cable thru a small hole. This is a trick I found. Cut the cable as clean
as possible (sharp cable cutters, chisel etc.). Then wrap the cable with a small
piece of masking tape, overlapping (hanging over) the end of the cable by
.25-.5 inch. Be sure to wrap the cable the same direction as the cable is already
twisted. Then twist the masking tape overhanging the cable. It should form
to almost a point or at least such a small diameter that it will easily slide
thru a nicropress sleeve or any thing else it is designed to fit thru. Be careful
not to use too long a piece of tape or it will add too much to the diameter
of the cable and not fit thru the hole.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Haines" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Larry and his web page |
Larry,
Microsoft Frontpage Express (free) and Microsoft Web Publishing Wizard (work
on your files on your computer and send the final revision to the web
provider).
Don't try to edit your files on the web provider's edit tool. It's too
funky. Frontpage makes it like working with a Word document. Also, save
your pages on your computer and send final revisions to the web provider
using Web Publishing Wizard.
I don't mind helping you off list if need it. First step, write the pages,
worry about publishing them later.
Robert Haines
SlingShot in progress
http://roberthaines.tripod.com
*******
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Help
Help ! ! ! I've started trying to put a website together, and tried the
Earthlink, free, click-n-build, 6 mb website thing. Good name for it -
thing - if you want to avoid profanity. It's pretty much useless, and a
real pain to navigate in. I see all kinds of outfits offering this and
that website constructors, and am not sure just how to choose. I would
*******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing tapes & access holes |
Hi Gang,
Thanks for all the imput and suggestions on applying finishing tapes and
access holes. One reason I plan on taping all the edges is because I had a
1988 model Twinstar Mark II and the leading edges of the elevators and
ailerons was getting pretty ragged where the fabric and the rivet made
contact on top of the ribs. Granted there wasn't any anti-chafe tape under
the fabric that would probably have prevented it, but I believe a little
extra work now may save me some headaches down the road and the tapes really
look nice. I'm going to use 4" tape on the leading edge of the wings to
provide plenty of overwrap of the seam and to allow the tape to come up
over the nose of the main ribs(one place I forgot to put anti-chafe tape)
The nose of the main ribs dig into the fabric pretty good when the fabric is
shrunk. BTW Big Lar, I talk to Jim and Dondi on a regular basis. As soon as
they here my Redneck voice they know who's calling. I can reiterate what you
said about them, they're great people to deal with and always willing to
take the time necessary to get you straightened out. I don't see how they
get any work done on the projects they have to do if folks call half as much
as I do. Ya'll have a great day.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Mason <CaptainKugel(at)excite.com> |
>
> Very interesting! I'm building a Mark III Extra and have been thinking
> about the Jabiru engine. No gears for speed reduction, no liquid cooling
> system & parts, lighter weight, etc. A number of other kitplanes are
using
> it. It would be nice to hear from Kolb what their thoughts and decisions
> were on using the Jabiru.
>
> Rody
>
>
> I just ordered Kit #1 for the xtra. How far along are you? is there
anything to report about the kit. This is my first kit build project so I am
excited and aprehensive.(g)
I have been wanting to Build me a Kolb since the first one came out back in
79 or so. I am most interested in knowing about the weight. Will it meet the
496 limit or not. I am also thinking and in fact just about settled on the
2si engine. Seems to be as good as the Rotax for half the money.
>
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Mason <CaptainKugel(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
>
> Hi group.
> Had another interesting experience with my 2SI 460-F-40 last night.
> I was flying with a buddy who just purchased a new T-bird around his
strip
> for about 20 minuets, when I felt the engine "sag". Temps were normal. I
> reduced throttle, and reapplied, and could only get about 5000 rpm @
WOT.. I
> reduced throttle some, and 30 seconds later I was flying a glider, as the
> engine stopped. Luckily I was above 1000', and another buddy's strip. The
> landing was good, if a little fast. After calming down, I tried to turn
> engine over-- no way. I removed the plugs, found the front plug with the
> electrodes smashed togther. Pulled the front cyl. head, and found it full
of
> ground up needle bearings--Hmmmm. I haven't torn it down any further, but
> suspect the wrist pin bearings.
> SO-- I may be a slow learner sometimes, but I know I will not be using a
> 2SI/Cyuna anymore.
> Why?? --
> *UL II02-- Totally went through,everything, Ran 9 hrs. rear cyl. seizure.
> *2SI 460-F-40-- Brand new, went 36.9 hrs, rear cyl. seizure. returned to
> 2SI, it was out of warranty, but they repaired it N/C. they said the
wrist
> pin bearing failed. Also, they replaced both cylinders, pistons, and
wrispin
> bearings.
> *Same engine-- 64.4 hrs later, front cyl. needle beairing failure.
> I do not abuse my equipment, maintain it properly, and am not a stranger
to
> 2-strokes.
> If you fly with one of these, be careful.
> If anyone is interested in these, I will be selling them CHEAP. contact
me
> offlist for more info.
> Daren Smalec.
>
>
> Could it be you have not used the right oil or ratio??
I am thinking of getting the 2SI for the Extra I am building.
>
>
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
Dear Ralph,
I guess that the link may have expired. Many papers only keep information
on-line for a day. This is from a search on the Detroit Free Press:
"FORSYTH TOWNSHIP, Mich. (AP) -- A Federal Aviation Administration official
was scheduled to be in Forsyth Township Monday evening to investigate an
airplane crash.
The accident happened at 8:50 p.m. Sunday just north of Michigan 35 in the
Gwinn area. A resident of the area called authorities to the crash that
occurred on private property.
Forsyth Township Police officers found Kent Mead, 53, in the wreckage. He
was taken to a local hospital where he was pronounced dead upon arrival.
Police could not determine the cause of the crash, so an FAA official from
Grand Rapids was beginning an investigation between 5 and 6 p.m. Monday.
The aircraft was fully equipped and more sophisticated than the small
aircraft police initially believed Mead was navigating.
The pilot was alone in the plane at the time of the crash, The Mining
Journal of Marquette reported. "
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kent Mead
> Clay, I went to this website for the news and could not see anything
> about Kent. I happened to meet Kent at Oshkosh a few years ago and he
> impressed me as being a very nice guy. I'm deeply sorry to hear about his
> death and very interested to find out 'why', as I fly an Original
> FireStar as he did.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Burlingame
>
> writes:
> >
> > I was able to find this link to the loss of the Kolb pilot:
> >
> > http://www.upgroup.com/journal/loclnews.html
> >
> > Condolences to his family.
> >
> > Clay Stuart
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ULflyer86(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 07/17/00 |
Hello again list,
I was also wondering if any of you have any Ultralights for sale?
I would prefer Kolb but if you have ANYTHING please post it! Thanks!
~Eric Farewell
Chalet Suzanne Airport, Lake Wales Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ULflyer86(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 07/17/00 |
Hello All,
Are any of you from the Santa Fe - Las Vegas New Mexico area?
I will be in that area for about 3-4 weeks starting next week and I was
wondering if there was any quantity of UL flyers in the area. Now on to more
questions I'm not very well versed on Kolbs but that is the type of aircraft
I've pretty much decided to buy: On Kolbs web site they never mentioned
whether or not the Slingshot can be used a s a licensed UL trainer are there
any of you out there with one for this use? Well, please get in touch with me
as soon as possible. Thanks
~Eric Farewell
Chalet Suzanne Airport Lake Wales Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andy Gassmann <agassmann(at)earthlink.net> |
Larry,
I've been reading the multitude of help messages you got.
You do NOT need any kind of fancy editor. Use the simple notepad that
comes with windows. find a page that you like, and copy the source, as I
showed you. Put it into a folder. Pull your pictures into the folder.
then start modifying. You can check your progress with either Netscape or
explorer by loading your page. Make corrections, save, then check again.
Have 3 things open, folder, notepad and browser. No going onto the web, do
it all local.
As many others have said, write for help.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Prop pitch & bogus tach |
Interesting experience yesterday with changing prop pitch.
About three weeks ago began to notice an odd noise from the prop when going
to full throttle at takeoff.
(MKIII, 532, B box, 2.58:1, 66" Ivo 2 blade)
Prop sounded like it was cavitating. Also, full throttle RPM has been about
300 RPM low for several months, but the climb rate and top speed were still
great, and everything else was working so well I hated to change anything,
and also I could not figure out why the RPM's were down.
So yesterday I checked the prop, and one blade had more pitch than the
other. That was the cause of the odd noise. One blade was biting more than
the other, running ahead of the other, one was running in fouled air.
Disassembled the prop, found a worn spot relative to one cam, easy fix.
Re shimmed the prop to get the RPM's back up to where they should be. (Old
style Ivo, stack-the-shims)
Test flight yesterday evening the RPM numbers were ideal, but the EGT was
up to almost 1300 degrees at all the usual cruise speeds, the water temp
was about 15 degrees colder than usual, and top speed was down about 9 MPH.
Conclusion? The tach reads about 300 RPM low at full throttle. Repitching
the prop to make the tach read "normal" resulted in insufficient prop pitch
and an underloaded engine.
Will put the prop back to the previous pitch and placard the tach.
(Why doesn't he just buy a new tach you ask? Because it's the fourth one so
far this year!)
Perhaps this will be of use to someone trying to make sense out of a
similar situation.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aluminum parts, polish or paint? |
How do you guys treat the aluminum parts to prevent corrosion?
I would like to retain a polished aluminum finish on the engine mount plate,
gear legs and a few other small parts, but my past efforts haven't been too
successful.
Every type of clear coat finish I've tried from the local hardware stores
just doesn't last very long. After a few exposures to the wet grass, sun,
etc., it loses its luster and then its not too long after that when to starts
to get those white dotted corrosion spots on it.
Anybody have an inexpensive idea on how to keep it shiny?
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Helpfull Hint |
Hi Richard, your web site is a good one. Another trick for
getting a wire thru a tight hole is to use a sharp cutter, ( I use an
electricians' cutter/stripper ) and cut the wire at as sharp an angle as you
can. Kinda like making a spear out of it. Ease the sharp point thru the
hole, and grab it on the other side with a pair of needlenosers. Works like
a charm. Sharp Lar. ( Pointy-headed Lar ?? )
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Neilsen <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 11:09 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Helpfull Hint
>
> Seems like I heard someone grumbling that they were having trouble putting
a stranded cable thru a small hole. This is a trick I found. Cut the cable
as clean as possible (sharp >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thumb" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 07/17/00 |
Take a look at the new Kolbra, it could be used as a 2 place trainer. Do
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <ULflyer86(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 6:47 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 07/17/00
>
> Hello All,
> Are any of you from the Santa Fe - Las Vegas New Mexico area?
> I will be in that area for about 3-4 weeks starting next week and I was
> wondering if there was any quantity of UL flyers in the area. Now on to
more
> questions I'm not very well versed on Kolbs but that is the type of
aircraft
> I've pretty much decided to buy: On Kolbs web site they never mentioned
> whether or not the Slingshot can be used a s a licensed UL trainer are
there
> any of you out there with one for this use? Well, please get in touch with
me
> as soon as possible. Thanks
>
> ~Eric Farewell
> Chalet Suzanne Airport Lake Wales Florida
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
I think your going to have an uphill fight to get the Extra under 496...Have
you asked the TNK guys about that??? I suspect you would have to put the
lightest engine you could find and really skimp on the equipment,paint,etc.
I'd be curious to know the facts on that one...keep us posted.
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Mason
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolbra
>
> Very interesting! I'm building a Mark III Extra and have been thinking
> about the Jabiru engine. No gears for speed reduction, no liquid cooling
> system & parts, lighter weight, etc. A number of other kitplanes are
using
> it. It would be nice to hear from Kolb what their thoughts and decisions
> were on using the Jabiru.
>
> Rody
>
>
> I just ordered Kit #1 for the xtra. How far along are you? is there
anything to report about the kit. This is my first kit build project so I am
excited and aprehensive.(g)
I have been wanting to Build me a Kolb since the first one came out back in
79 or so. I am most interested in knowing about the weight. Will it meet the
496 limit or not. I am also thinking and in fact just about settled on the
2si engine. Seems to be as good as the Rotax for half the money.
>
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Haines" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
The Jabiru engine looks great but it will cost as much as the airframe.
Ain't that always the case!
Jabiru Engines Website:
http://www.jabiru.net.au
Robert Haines
SlingShot (no engine, no worrys)
Saint Louis, MO
http://roberthaines.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darren Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors
>>Could it be you have not used the right oil or ratio??<<
>>I am thinking of getting the 2SI for the Extra I am building.<<
Ron / group:
The first two engine failures happened while using Penzoil air cooled. The
last failure happened while using Istaca (Quaker State) Synthetic. Both @
50:1.
Do a search in the archives, lots of info there.
Darren Smalec, FS1, 118 hrs, 3 Cuyuna/ 2SI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flycrazy8(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
In a message dated Thu, 20 Jul 2000 12:09:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Darren
Smalec" writes:
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors
>>Could it be you have not used the right oil or ratio??<<
>>I am thinking of getting the 2SI for the Extra I am building.<<
Ron / group:
The first two engine failures happened while using Penzoil air cooled. The
last failure happened while using Istaca (Quaker State) Synthetic. Both @
50:1.
Do a search in the archives, lots of info there.
Darren Smalec, FS1, 118 hrs, 3 Cuyuna/ 2SI
Been flying with the UL1102 for over 150 hours and never had a problem........but
i'm using a 40:1 mixture..according to the service manual I got this is the
correct mixture..
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630)
| Subject: | Re:Kent Mead--funeral today |
| From: | Pam & Scott Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
on 7/19/00 1:58 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server at
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com wrote:
> Our fellow pilot was Kent Mead.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Steven S. Green <GREENSS(at)Bowater.com>
>> To: Kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Monday, July 17, 2000 12:42 PM
>>
>>>
>>> **** 07/17/2000 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record 1 ****
>>> A. Type: A Mid Air: N Missing: N Entry date: 07/17/2000
>>> From: GREAT LAKES REGION OPERATIONS CENTER
>>> B. Reg. No.: UNREG M/M: ULTR Desc: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT
>>> Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off GA-A/C: Other
>>> Descr: UNREGISTERED ULTRALIGHT (KOLB MARK III WITH 2 SEATS) CRASHED ON
>>> TAKE-OFF FROM THE OWNER'S YARD, AND THE PILOT/SOLE OCCUPANT
>>> SUFFERED FATAL INJURIES, THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED, OTHER
>>> CIRCUMSTANCES ARE UNKNOWN, GWINN, MI.WX: UNKNDamage: Substantial
>>> C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
>>> # Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
>>> # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
>>> D. Location. City: GWINN State: MI Country: US
>>> E. Event Date: 07/17/2000 Time: 0050
>>> F. Invest Coverage. IIC: Reg/DO: GL09 DO City: GRAND RAPIDS
>>> DO State: MI Others: NTSB
>>> G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: GWINN, MI Dep Date: 07/17/2000 Time: 0050
>>> Dest: UNKN Last Radio Cont: NONE Flt Plan: NONE
>>> Last Clearance: NONE WX Briefing: NOther:
>>>
>>> Does anyone who this was?
>>>
>
Hi guys,
I met Kent and started flying with him last summer, since we live within 40
miles apart (in the U.P of Michigan). My wife and I were out in New
Hampshire at the Yankee Fly-in last week and arrived home to hear of the sad
news of Kent's accident.
The news media doesn't seem to get anything straight. First they called his
plane a Mark III (when it's really a Firestar II), then they said his age
was 56 in one report and 53 in another. They claimed at first it was an
ultra-light, then they said it was a more sophisticated and completely
equipped aircraft. Way to go, media! In one report, they made it sound as
if he was in the wrong for not having a piece of paper (license) saying he
could fly his own plane. (Nothing wrong with being a licensed pilot--I'm
one myself. But a piece of paper from the government doesn't make the
pilot!)
The FAA was going to leave it alone, until an anonymous tip said it wasn't a
true ultra-light. He had his extra fuel tank in the plane when he
crashed, so I don't know if that's what made it not a legal ultra-light.
They didn't weigh it, in any case. Why would someone want to do this? Kent
is no longer with us and sicking the feds on him won't do any good now, will
it?
I was asked to look at the wreckaged to see if I could find any structural
or control failure on the aircraft. I flew up there yesterday to look at it
and found that it appeared nothing really failed--everything seemed to be
intact. The wings struck trees, destroying the wings. The engine was
running when it hit. The first person at the scene took his pulse and there
was none. His arms were crossed over his chest. Kent had a history of
heart disease and had had two heart attacks prior to the accident. It
appears that he may have had a heart attack on take-off. The coroner's
report states he had blockage in his heart, saying he may have had a heart
attack, but it's uncertain.
Kent was a good pilot, enthusiastic about flying and very energetic. We had
plans to fly to a number of fly-ins this summer and to the New Kolb Kentucky
fly-in in September. I will miss him.
--Scott Trask N38ST
Mark III
Iron Mountain, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
>Hey speaking of Oshkosh is anyone from the group attending this year? In
the past we set a time like maybe 1:00PM everyday to meet at the Kolb site,
is there anyone interested this year? I will be there 7/26-29/2000.
I will be there working at the Powersport Aviation Booth. Hope you all
wonder down and say hi. You will want to see our engine management and
navigation systems. They are turning out real good. The engine management
is digital with a bar graph for each function that changes color for the as
appropriate for the variable. It records all engine data form the whole
flight and if you click on the bars the data pops up and is zoomable and
scrollable. Runs on any windows laptop PC and we might port it to run on
the new pocket PC's if there is interest.
THe GPS system has some of the best maps around and when displayed on a VGA
sunlight readable flat panel 10 inches diagonal is awesome. then we have
full 3D Terrain mapping that show you height above the terrain based on GPS.
This will really help people who stumble into ifr conditions get through
safely.
Our RV-6A is flying and has fairly awesome performance. we have hit 190 MPH
and still need a bit more prop. also need to clean up the whole airframe.
should be able to get 210 MPH when we are all cleaned up.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flycrazy8(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Kent Mead--funeral today |
.......Tho I never knew or met kent......I do share your grief in losing a
friend.......I lost one in almost the same way two years ago this
september...Dan too had a heart attack while flying his Hiperlight and
crashed....what a way to go doing what you enjoy.......my true sympathy goes
with you.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
HI all
Have a question about my altimeter. Last time I flew, when I set the
altimeter to the barometric pressure as per ATIS, the altimeter said I was
about 300 feet in the air when I was on the ground. So I set the altimeter
to the ground altitude and went flying. Tonight when I went to fly the
altimeter was about 1500 feet off. Anyone know what's wrong?
Thanks
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
> Setting your altimeter as per atis should give you highth above sea
> level. I don't know where you are but this could be possible. The next
> time I suspect there was a major weather change. The Altimeter is just a
> barometer and will change with the air pressure. That is why you can
> adjust the altimeter in flight to atis, so if the weather changes while
> on route you will know how high you are above sea level. Myself I just
> set it to zero on the ground, I don't care where the ocean is. If the
> weather is that variable I'm not flying either.
>
>
>Have a question about my altimeter. Last time I flew, when I set the
>altimeter to the barometric pressure as per ATIS, the altimeter said I was
>about 300 feet in the air when I was on the ground. So I set the altimeter
>to the ground altitude and went flying. Tonight when I went to fly the
>altimeter was about 1500 feet off. Anyone know what's wrong?
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Kent Mead--funeral today |
For Flycrazy---
were are you located?-We had a club member named Dan flying a
Hiperlight--same situation.No to many hyperlights around-
Lindy
Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 07/17/00 |
All we have for sale in Lower Alabama and NW Florida is a single place
challanger-in excellent shape-If you are interested-reply and will provide
E-mail address and phone number.No Kolbs!
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 07/08/00 |
John Hauck used to do aerobatics in a kolb-he had a material failure-ask him
when he gets back from B.C..
Noticed from that point on-and he is airborne qualified--he quit doing
aerobatics.From what I observed on many occasions-The kolbs-all makes and
models-except the original--twin engine model which had the strength in the
fabric--have excellent wings!!!!Strong-I rate UL wings as
follows--Kolb-Rans--also aware of capabilities and performances of clipped
wing firestars.
Just remember the first firestar was rolled on take off-Homer almost had a
heart attack-with this Prototype-Firestar# 1.Know the pilot who did it very
well.
Just remember the rule-anything mechanical or electrical is subject to
immediate failure-that is the basic reason for pre-post-flight inspections
and scheduled maintenance.
105 F Here today--Enough.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting vent hole in lexan |
use 2 on each side--take advantage of boundary layer airflow----have had 2
for the past 3 years they work very well-especially in 100F Temps..Do not
archive
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolbs for sale |
| From: | Bruce L Borg <blborg(at)juno.com> |
Kolb Ultrastar for sale in southern MN. Contact me off list.
Bruce Borg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | [YOUR BAROMETER AT BREAKFAST - 07/20/2000] |
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 11:49 AM
Subject: Kolb Barometer...
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Picked up while surfing the net-- Do not
archive ========================================================
> Want a simple way to check the weather each day? Stare into your
> coffee cup (before you pour the milk). If you see bubbles floating
> toward the rim of the cup, it means that the pressure is low and you
> should look for clouds and stormy weather. If the bubbles float
> toward the center of the cup, it means that the pressure is high and
> you can expect fair weather.
Keep in mind that bubbles will always float to the lowest point on the
surface of coffee. So, with high pressure, the center of the coffee is
pushed down and the surface of the drink is low in the center and high
on the sides. When pressure is low, the center rises relative to the
edge of the coffee.
So there you go, impress the Rans,Quicksilver,Challanger drivers. with your
scienific knowledge.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Noyer <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [YOUR BAROMETER AT BREAKFAST - 07/20/2000] |
Geez, only a few more hours till I can ck the baro press with my decaf.
Until then.....wait, just saw three pigs fly over in left echelon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 582 ignition problem |
Hi Gang,
Bird has been in it's little nest (a fully enclosed, really tight trailer)
for about three months since its last flight. In the interim I put in a noise
filter after the master switch, which feeds a buss bar with fuses for
electrical stuff, and installed a Microair 760 transceiver in the panel. Also
put in a portable Sigtronics intercom. These were checked out on battery and
worked fine. Been waiting for the winds to drop to reasonable levels to haul
out to the airport and give the radio a test hop.
Today was the day. Winds calm. Hauled to the airport, got her unfolded and
preflighted three times. Cranked her up; started quick and ran smooth. Turned
on the master and checked the radio and intercom. Worked fine and noise free.
Then I did the runup and, lo and behold, no ignition on "L." Just about quit.
Runs fine on "both" and "R." Now I get to thinking what could I have done to
affect one of the CDI ignitions. Disconnected everything, including
tachometer: same story.
Checked the coils physically. The aft (PTO) coil has kind of an oily coating
on it but there is no oil on any of the adjacent parts and no leaks. The
lower boot is all boogered up around the periphery like it might have been
arcing at one time, but the wires look good.
Checked the ignition switch and it does what it is supposed to do; OFF had
ground on both ignitions, "Left has ground on right ignition, "Right" has
ground on left ignition and "Both" has no ground on either.
I tried to check the archive but didn't get anything on 582 ignition
problems. Could a coil have let go on the last flight three months ago? Or
could changing the load on the lighting coil (not much) cause a problem with
ignition? If any of you Kolbers out there have some input and are not
thoroughly confused with the preceding, let 'er rip. I'm going to order a new
coil tomorrow anyway, just in case.
Thanks
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
Gents,
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors
>Been flying with the UL1102 for over 150 hours and never had a
>problem........but i'm using a 40:1 mixture..according to the service
>manual I got this is the correct mixture..
Same here. In 15 years my Cuyuna has never had an engine related problem
that wasn't avoidable. The engine was broken in with Mercury outboard 2
cycle oil (it was handy at the time) and has been flown exclusively with
Pennsoil 2 cycle oil. The last several years have been with Pennsoil air
cooled 2 cycle oil. The Cuyuna manual says 40:1 and that's what I have
always used.
A telephone call to the 2SI factory a few years ago left me with the
impression that 50:1 might be OK for the Cuyuna, but I thought why mess
with success and I stayed with the 40:1 with EGT around 1050 F
(uncalibrated).
IMO, there are reasons that the Cuyuna engine had it's share of problems
many years ago, but most were caused by operator error.
Regards,
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
> Been flying with the UL1102 for over 150 hours and never had a problem........but
i'm using a 40:1 mixture..according to the service manual I got this is the
correct mixture..
To those temped by 2SI:
While the ULII02 and earlier models are the same basic design as one currently
produced by 2SI, I believe that the difference is in the manufacturing. I was
a manufacturing
engineer at one time so it might be worth considering my opinion. In addition to
that, I have many friends that have used the original Cuyuna's successfully
with less maintenance
than the Rotaxes. (They didn't seem to need to be de-carboned). Since 2SI bought
the rights to the engine it has been a disaster. When 2SI first brought the
design back to the
market, some ultralight companies gave them a try. The advantage was weight and
cost. But a brand new engine didn't even last for the show and an ultralight
went down when a 2SI
quit. That was just the beginning. Their failures, that I know about, make for
a long story. If you are still tempted, read the archives about 2SI.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
HI Kolb listers!
We'll be at the Poly-Fiber booth for most of Oshkosh, stop in & see us, we
would like to meet you all!
We'll be available on the phone through out the convention, so just call the
number below.
Thanx,
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Mason <CaptainKugel(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
>
> > Been flying with the UL1102 for over 150 hours and never had a
problem........but i'm using a 40:1 mixture..according to the service manual
I got this is the correct mixture..
>
> To those temped by 2SI:
>
> While the ULII02 and earlier models are the same basic design as one
currently produced by 2SI, I believe that the difference is in the
manufacturing. I was a manufacturing
> engineer at one time so it might be worth considering my opinion. In
addition to that, I have many friends that have used the original Cuyuna's
successfully with less maintenance
> than the Rotaxes. (They didn't seem to need to be de-carboned). Since 2SI
bought the rights to the engine it has been a disaster. When 2SI first
brought the design back to the
> market, some ultralight companies gave them a try. The advantage was
weight and cost. But a brand new engine didn't even last for the show and an
ultralight went down when a 2SI
> quit. That was just the beginning. Their failures, that I know about,
make for a long story. If you are still tempted, read the archives about
2SI.
>
> John Jung
>
>
>
> I am one of those guys who is very leary of the "sky is falling" claims.
I wonder if people simply use 50/1 mixture when the correct one maybe 40/1
and then they blame the engine for their stupidity. Just because a
manufacturer wrecks an airplane is not proof that it was the engine. it
could be a concerted effort by Rotax deallers to malign their competition
that would not be the first time that has happned. So far I have not been
told by anyone what exactly is the *design fault* with the 2si motor. Does I
cannot believe in good faith that what is said here is not self serving
criticisms. For example one fellow just said his new engine run for 67 hrs
or so before it developed problems. That tells me that the failure was was
gradual and most likely related to wrong lub. if the design was flawed the
failure would have happened right away.
I would like some specific comparisons as to why the 2si moter has an
***alleged*** higher failure rate than the Rotax.
>
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Mason <CaptainKugel(at)excite.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
>>>>>IMO, there are reasons that the Cuyuna engine had it's share of
problems
many years ago, but most were caused by operator
error.
Regards,
Skip <<<<<
This is what I tend to believe. Some people are just too dumb to go and read
the instruction manual that came from with their motor, or do not know how
to figure out correct mixture ratios, and when the engine goes T.U. its the
engines fault not theirs.(g)
If the mixture is 40/1 they gotta burn 40/1 not 50/1. I am still awaiting
some hard data (scientific) to convince me that the 2si motor is less
relaible than a Rotax. So far nada! thus I will get the 2si motor instead of
that over priced Rotax.
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
In a message dated 7/21/00 1:46:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
CaptainKugel(at)excite.com writes:
<< So far I have not been
told by anyone what exactly is the *design fault* with the 2si motor. Does I
cannot believe in good faith that what is said here is not self serving
criticisms. For example one fellow just said his new engine run for 67 hrs
or so before it developed problems. That tells me that the failure was was
gradual and most likely related to wrong lub. if the design was flawed the
failure would have happened right away.
I would like some specific comparisons as to why the 2si moter has an
***alleged*** higher failure rate than the Rotax.
> >>
I had a 30hp cuyuna engine on my pterydactle which I sold in '91. I flew that
puppy and never felt bad about the engine in spite of rhe fact that it was
driving a belt to the prop which was lubricated only by a friction bearing
(sleeve type) and had a special resonator on instead of the stock muffler
which was supposed to provide 5 more extra hp than the engine was designed
for. I also found that more Cuyuna owners worked on their own engines than
Rotax owners ...at least around this area in Ohio.
operator abuse is definitely a major contributor to the bad press of the
Cuyuna...I always pulled for it cause it was built in the good ol us of a..
In the 8 years of use of my Cuyuna, I had two freezeups and had to leave the
sky. Both occurred at takeoff and both could probably ...I say probably....
have been avoided! I also was dumber and didn't have an egt as most in those
days did not have...or a tach for that matter. So I was flying fat, dumb,
and risky! Since I've had my rotax on the Firestar I have been flying with
1. gearbox instead of belt with slip bearings (not antifriction)
2 egt
3 proper muffler
4 same carburator and fuel pump as the other one
and my experience with the rotax has been only 1 flameout due to a plug wire
wandering ...engine didn't stop but I stopped it as it vibrated too
much...and I got a chance to expose myself to my own old gliding skills
...which btw ...weren't bad at all!!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
In a message dated 7/21/00 1:46:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
CaptainKugel(at)excite.com writes:
<< So far I have not been
told by anyone what exactly is the *design fault* with the 2si motor. Does I
cannot believe in good faith that what is said here is not self serving
criticisms. For example one fellow just said his new engine run for 67 hrs
or so before it developed problems. That tells me that the failure was was
gradual and most likely related to wrong lub. if the design was flawed the
failure would have happened right away.
I would like some specific comparisons as to why the 2si moter has an
***alleged*** higher failure rate than the Rotax.
> >>
Oh, I forgot to add...I was mixing 50:1...so that might have contributed to
the freezeups also
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
I don't have any stake in any 2 stroke engine I fly a VW. If you don't believe
the reports posted here that is your option. Please refrain from any name calling.
I have been around ultralights since the weedhopper days. I put almost 200 hours
in the weedhopper with my share of quiet moments. What I did see was that when
Rotax came on the market the Cuyuna engines dropped out . If the problems have
been fixed that's fine.
Please for the industries sake and yours keep an open mind and be careful out there.
>>> CaptainKugel(at)excite.com 07/21/00 01:44PM >>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RF exposure hazards . . . |
> . . . . Considering the transponder only
>transmits a low duty cycle burst and is receiving most of the time, it's
>probably not a problem. This also would fall under the guidelines for a
>controlled environment, meaning the occupants can be told they are sitting in
>an RF field, and the transmitter can be turned off if so desired. Between
>the low power and intermittent low power transmit, I would be pretty certain
>everybody will be fine. It certainly is an area worth learning a little bit
>about. It's a complex concept, and isn't always fully understood by even the
>experts. I still think getting the antennas as far away from the
occupants is
>a good idea.
>> . . . . . In the prototype we installed it outside the
>> shell, below the passenger seat, and then had the whole area above the
>> composite shell covered with a thin alum sheet to act as the ground plane
>> and to protect the passenger from any radiation. (Remember, I was the
>> one who sat on the passenger side in all those demos). I always wondered
>> how effective the alum sheet was in protecting my body. So far, so good.
Concerns for radiation safety and transponders surface from
time to time in aviation circles . . . especially when some
folk read that certain models of tranpsonders put out "600 Watts".
Flags go up and statements are made to the effect, "Gee, my microwave
oven is only 600 watts and it will really toast things . . ."
The "600 Watt Out" and the "toasty foods" are both true statments
but unrelated to each other. Tranponders are rated for PEAK power
output during the few tens of microseconds/second while replying to
an interrogation. Microwave ovens are rated in CONTINUOUS or
HEATING power output which will indeed "toast things".
A transponder's very low AVERAGE power output, presents no
hazard even at 600 watts peak. Most modern transponders
are rated at only 100 to 200 watts peak . . . the need for big
transmitters has evaporated given improvements in solid
state receiving amplifers used at modern radar sites.
Long and Vari-Ez builders were oft cautioned about shielding
the family jewels from ravages of "tranponsder onslaught"
and the practice were unfounded in physics.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
Good name for them, if you ask me. I burned two of them up and was working
on the 3rd-
in the old days. Never had one last more than 200 hours. But it didn't
matter, cause you could always buy a used one-with about 40 hours on it-for
3 or 4 hundred dollars.
________________________________________________________________________________
Anyone know when the Kolb fly-in is this year?
Bill Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | EIS wiring harness |
Hi Gang,
I've got a question to ask the group. Literature I have from the old
Kolb list a "Custom Wiring Harness" for use with the EIS that consist of a
bundle of twenty-seven wires with plugs, switches, thermocouple wire, and a
remote switch panel to mount in the seat area. The harness comes ready to
install in your aircraft and simply plugs into all of the mounted
components. It contains the ignition on/off switch and a spring loaded
left-right mag switch which are wired to the harness. Also included are the
"next/previous screen" push button switches for the EIS. Extra wires are
provided to allow for additional instruments or custom requirements. The
harness is designed to eliminate the wiring nightmares associated with kit
building; it is designed for pull start installations only, not for electric
starting. Cost is listed as 195 dollars. The New Kolb list a custom wiring
harness also. Does anyone on the list have this option and is it worth the
money. I plan on buying a EIS and was wondering if this is worthwhile. It
sure sounds good.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flycrazy8(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
I'd like to say one more thing about the Cyuna engine. I know a pilot that flew
the old Cobra with a Cyuna engine and the only way he knew how to fly it was
wide open....lol.....No egt or cht gauges just full throttle where ever he went.
As of today that engine is still running and flyable...Probably has over
a 1000 hours...has never been rebuilt.......Can Rotax make the same claim....?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Let me make myself clear. Normally when you set your altimeter to the ATIS
setting, it reads your altitude above sea level. Mine now reads way to
high. When I set the altimeter to ATIS barometric pressure my altimeter
says I'm 1500 feet above sea level when I'm actually 340 ft above sea level.
Is there a way to recalibrate an altimeter?
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Woody
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: altimeter
>
> Setting your altimeter as per atis should give you highth above sea
> level. I don't know where you are but this could be possible. The next
> time I suspect there was a major weather change. The Altimeter is just a
> barometer and will change with the air pressure. That is why you can
> adjust the altimeter in flight to atis, so if the weather changes while
> on route you will know how high you are above sea level. Myself I just
> set it to zero on the ground, I don't care where the ocean is. If the
> weather is that variable I'm not flying either.
>
>
>Have a question about my altimeter. Last time I flew, when I set the
>altimeter to the barometric pressure as per ATIS, the altimeter said I was
>about 300 feet in the air when I was on the ground. So I set the altimeter
>to the ground altitude and went flying. Tonight when I went to fly the
>altimeter was about 1500 feet off. Anyone know what's wrong?
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
I feel the same way about Hirth. People bad mouth them without
research. I went on the challenger list awhile ago just to find out about
the Hirth. No one could nail down any specifics. Just friend of a friend
knew a guy that had one kind of stories.It does seem they do not like to
run inverted. they do not like to run with water in the gas and the gear
boxes are prone to seizure if you run them with out oil.
>IMO, there are reasons that the Cuyuna engine had it's share of problems
>many years ago, but most were caused by operator error.
>
>Regards,
>Skip
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Guys,
I bought a 2SI engine a few years back and had nothing but problems with
it.I could never get decent egts out of it (under 1200-1350) until the first
one seized. They sent me another engine and i could'nt get get the egt down
either.I am not a bad mechanic and I tried every jet\needle combo I could
think of to no avail. But, if anyone would like to try i will sell the whole
package for a grand delivered at Oshkosh. Please reply If you are interested
and I will bring it up.I lost a summer messing with it and chose a 503 to
replace it.This was a good choice.So good that i flew off my 40 hours and
will,weather permitting, fly into Oshkosh wed. morning !
I hope to see all of you Kolb convicts at 1:00 PM at the Kolb tent. I will
have a black and white FSII #N25029 I really wished that 2SI worked because I
prefer to buy American and would like to see their success.
See you guys soon,
John Bruzan FSII 503,EIS BRS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
One more thing, I forgot to mention that I feel that 2SI and Cuyuna are two
different animals and cannot accurately be compared.They use a bing carb as
opposed to a Mikuni and that might have something to do with it.
See you guys soon, John Bruzan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
For Woody--
Cayuna operator error-you must be kidding-more than obvious you never flew
the engine and had them seize--especially on takeoff. Problem with old
cayuna's was not enough rear cooling to rear cylinder.We found out by trial
and error to remove the cooling fins-forget how many-from the front
cylinder-to get more cooling air to rear cylinder---spent 5 years at
Paradise City showing fellow ultralight pilots why cayuna's were
seizing..Not one damn bit of advice from the engineers at Cayuna-explain
why-they had the market and lost it--whatever they call their engine-it
still translates to boat anchor--they are the cause of the bad
reputation-not ultralight pilots--try and make a 180 degree dead man turn on
takeoff -then comment on operator error.
If you think I am kidding I have 3 crashes on Video with the Cayuna--best
turn 179Degrees-3 feet above ground wing tip hit tree branch--a
disaster--pilot was flying 45 years--When I use the term boat anchor I have
a reason backed up by years of experience with the cayuna-to include gearbox
problems.My personal opinion anyone currently flying whatever they call it
took the cheap way out-hope they have their insurance policy paid up.
I have yet to see a cayuna on Kolb and I have been to hundreds of fly-ins
and airshows..To clarify on a Kolb-original firestar up!
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
First of all, how far are you from the location where the barometer reading
is taken? Distance from the measuring site can have a great effect on
changes in pressure readings. Verify your exact height above MSL. Check
the back of the altimeter for any blockage of ports. If it still isn't
coming out right, set your altimeter to field elevation and not the
barometric pressure. If all this fails I'd think you need a new altimeter.
Ken (soon to began building a Firestar)
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 2:11 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: altimeter
>
> Let me make myself clear. Normally when you set your altimeter to the
ATIS
> setting, it reads your altitude above sea level. Mine now reads way to
> high. When I set the altimeter to ATIS barometric pressure my altimeter
> says I'm 1500 feet above sea level when I'm actually 340 ft above sea
level.
> Is there a way to recalibrate an altimeter?
>
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Woody
> Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2000 10:10 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: altimeter
>
>
> >
> > Setting your altimeter as per atis should give you highth above sea
> > level. I don't know where you are but this could be possible. The next
> > time I suspect there was a major weather change. The Altimeter is just a
> > barometer and will change with the air pressure. That is why you can
> > adjust the altimeter in flight to atis, so if the weather changes while
> > on route you will know how high you are above sea level. Myself I just
> > set it to zero on the ground, I don't care where the ocean is. If the
> > weather is that variable I'm not flying either.
> >
> >
> >Have a question about my altimeter. Last time I flew, when I set the
> >altimeter to the barometric pressure as per ATIS, the altimeter said I
was
> >about 300 feet in the air when I was on the ground. So I set the
altimeter
> >to the ground altitude and went flying. Tonight when I went to fly the
> >altimeter was about 1500 feet off. Anyone know what's wrong?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >
> >Terry
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
>
>For Woody--
>
>Cayuna operator error-you must be kidding-more than obvious you never flew
>the engine and had them seize-
>You're right I have no experience with the cuyuna
> The point of my letter was that sometimes people have an negative
> opinion based on less than truth and hearsay. I based my letter on my
> experiences with a non Rotax (Hirth) engine. Others on the list had more
> favourable opinions of the Cuyuna.
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks for the message of sympathy for the loss of my husband, Kent.
Hopefully someday when we are all in heaven, he will tell us all the tale of
his last flight. I know for a fact that he was intending to surprise me and
fly over the lake I was at. He often liked to "buzz over" places he knew.
For those who fly, the windsock will always be up and you are of course
welcome to visit.
We all know that he went on to the next life the way he wanted to go - in his
beloved Firestar II.
Sincerely,
Kathy Mead,
Kent's widow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolbs for sale |
I understand and you have my sympathy. I felt scared of trash air for
years, but I was flying a Hummer, and it is a gentle weather airplane, it
lacks the control authority of a Kolb, and would be in over it's abilities
in turbulence that a Kolb can deal with. When I first started flying the
MKIII, it looks a lot like my Hummer looked from inside the cockpit, and I
had a lot of apprehension in turbulence. But after flying it to Oshkosh and
back, it no longer bothers me. There is something about committing yourself
to a situation in an airplane,and then discovering that it is worthy of
your confidence that is very reassuring. I don't enjoy turbulence, but it
is no longer distressing.
Contact me off list with the particulars on your airplane, I know someone
that might be interested in a MKIII.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard(at)bcchapel.org
>
>
> I recently found out why I don't much care for my mk3-its me. I am
>scared ****less by clear air turbulence, or cat. After 600+hrs of
>sneaking around in the best of weather I finally found out about my fear
>of bouncing around. It is in us all, somewhere, a fear of falling.When I
>go bouncing around in the air I do not like it. If I'm only going to fly
>in the best of air, for the few hours that I fly, an ultralight that
>folds easily and doesn't require the private pilot papers every two
>years is the way to go for me. Any fireflys out there?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI/Cyuna Boat Anchors |
>While the ULII02 and earlier models are the same basic design as one
currently produced by 2SI, I believe that the difference is in the
manufacturing. I was a manufacturing
>engineer at one time so it might be worth considering my opinion. In
addition to that, I have many friends that have used the original Cuyuna's
successfully with less maintenance
>than the Rotaxes. (They didn't seem to need to be de-carboned). Since 2SI
bought the rights to the engine it has been a disaster. When 2SI first
brought the design back to the
>market, some ultralight companies gave them a try. The advantage was weight
and cost. But a brand new engine didn't even last for the show and an
ultralight went down when a 2SI
>quit. That was just the beginning. Their failures, that I know about, make
for a long story. If you are still tempted, read the archives about 2SI.
>
>John Jung
I flew with a Cuyuna back in 1983 and did so without knowing anything about
2 stroke engines with fairly good success. I agree that when they were made
in Minnesota they were fairly good engines. I dont know what 2SI is doing
to them but have heard nothing but bad news about there line of engines
since they took it over.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 7/21/00 11:00:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Kenmead(at)aol.com
writes:
<< We all know that he went on to the next life the way he wanted to go - in
his
beloved Firestar II.
Sincerely,
Kathy Mead,
Kent's widow
>>
very nice letter Kathy, I don't know you, but with your well thought out
letter, I feel now, that I know you and Kent instead of only his airplane. I
think Kolbers are all nice people ....especially the ones on this list.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolbs for sale |
I think I've mentioned a couple of times, my uneasiness about the wing/strut
attach bolts. I've seen many examples of metal fatigue in my career(s), and
when the plane starts to bounce, I can't help thinking of X pounds of
airplane dangling from that little bolt. Even on a 2300 lb. C-172, it's
only a 3/8 bolt. I know, I know, I've never heard of one breaking, and
never talked to anyone who has, but still.............. So, now I very
carefully put it out of my mind when flying, aside from a quick look during
preflight. If I DO hit turbulence, I get that slightly sick feeling, and
if it really starts to bounce, my manhood tries to crawl up into my stomach.
Recognize that hollow, sick feeling ?? BUT.........hang in there for a bit,
and you'll actually get used to it. After a while, it becomes an irritant,
'cause it's difficult to tune radios, adjust or set GPS', and so on. A
couple of times, it's become a joke; fun; started me laughing - "This damn
thing is every which way but up." It's been 6 years and 300 hours now, and
I still don't like it, but it can be lived with. Shaky Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolbs for sale
>
> I understand and you have my sympathy. I felt scared of trash air for
> years, but I was flying a Hummer, and it is a gentle weather airplane, it
> lacks the control authority of a Kolb, and would be in over it's abilities
> in turbulence that a Kolb can deal with. When I first started flying the
> I recently found out why I don't much care for my mk3-its me. I am
> >scared ****less by clear air turbulence, or cat. After 600+hrs of
> >sneaking around in the best of weather I finally found out about my fear
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I was going to leave this lay, but got thinking about it while thrashing
around trying to sleep last night. I'm sure that by now, the guy who wanted
to install the vents has cut the holes in his doors. While working with
the lexan on Vamoose, I got ( and am getting ) lots of practise with lexan.
Quite a bit of it has been ruined - my fault, not the lexan's. This has
left me with quite a bit of scrap to play with, and to give to my Dad's
neighbor, who makes lawn ornaments. Both of us have jumped that stuff thru
hoops, trying to mess it up. Relax, you can't - read that as "cannot" hurt
it - except by scratching or scuffing. I've taken a sabre saw with medium
woodcutting blade at full speed, and cut a 1/16" slice off a 2' section.
.063 and .090 thicknesses ) The thin piece turned white, but was nearly as
strong as a piece of fish line. For a while, I carefully sawed the stuff,
then not so carefully. Best saw was ( is ) the Stanley full size
carpenter's hand saw with the picture of the shark. What I finally wound up
doing was using tin snips to cut and trim the doors, etc. Works fine, and
no "saw"dust. Very fast and leaves a pretty good edge. As part of my new
gap seal, I had to bend a piece 90, and couldn't do it by hand. Ruined a
good sized piece by heating it and trying to bend it, so took the new piece
to a sheet metal shop and had them bend it on their brake. Guy couldn't
believe it, and the lexan is still clear thru the bend. That's a hard,
tight 90, folks. Only place it ( I ) fell down, was in trying to glue 2
pieces together. Oh, it worked OK, but looks real bad, and unless the joint
is "Perfect" it isn't very strong. Spilling that solvent is what finally
killed my gap seal. Big Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darren Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
Group:
-- More fuel to the fire!!--
I finally got into my 460-F 40 today SN# 60034, and it wasn't pretty. The
front lower rod bearing (mag end) disentergrated and needle bearings were
everywhere. Some of them were sucked back through the intake into the rear
cylinder, damaging the piston skirt.
SO- 36.9 hrs.-rear wrist pin brg. failure- returned to factory, new
cyl/pistons.
64.4 hrs later- front rod brg. failure
The cylinders still have crosshatch in them, the rear piston crown is still
shiny clean.
I was using Penzoil air cooled, mixed 50:1 per 2SI., later, at 40 hrs.
switched to Istaca Synthetic @50:1.
Flame away! :)
Darren Smalec, FS1
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EIS wiring harness |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
John,
If you are going to use the Kuntzleman Hot Box, the cable that can be
ordered with it ($120) if specified will include all the wires for the
EIS with the multi-pin connector already wired.
I purchased my EIS before I was aware of this and as a consequence blew
$53.20 on a prewired connector and extended cable. I will gladly part
with it for half of that amount.
writes:
>
> Hi Gang,
> I've got a question to ask the group. Literature I have from the
> old
> Kolb list a "Custom Wiring Harness" for use with the EIS that
> consist of a
> bundle of twenty-seven wires with plugs, switches, thermocouple
> wire, and a
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb Instrument Panel For Sale |
Group,
Who is building a Firestar or FireFly and wants to save time and money on
instruments?
I am selling a panel built by Kolb, complete with instruments, wiring harness
and 2 EGT plus 2 CHT sending units. It attaches to the nose cone with 4 wing
nuts and can be installed in about an hour. You could take weeks off your build
time with this panel, plus save about $300 on instruments.
See a picture at: http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Inflight.html
It includes an 100 mph airspeed indicator, digital tach with reset able hour
meter and flight time, altimeter, slip indicator, compass, key switch, switch
for testing dual ignition, and a switch to change temperature gauge from front
to back cylinders. Everything has worked perfectly for the two years that I
used it but I am selling because I bought an EIS.
Price is $450 for everything, or $350 without the airspeed indicator.
If you are interested, contact me off-list at: jrjung(at)execpc.com
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Hi Kolb gang,
Ive been watching the list for a while now in silence. Im building a
Firefly & have everything covered & painted with tail feathers installed &
cables hooked up. I will be needing an engine purty soon. I had over 100
hours on Wizard J-3 W/ Kawasaki 440. super easy to start & never any
problems.
Question: Anyone know or heard of anybody using a k. 440 on
a Kolb or who makes a redrive for it?
Hope I did this right! Ed Diebel (Building
Firefly in Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 |
Ed,
Welcome to the Kolb List.
About using a 440 on a FireFly: Yes, you could do it if you solved the redrive
problem. But here is why you shouldn't. Trying something new at the same time
that you will be transitioning to a new plane increases the risk too much. If
you were an experienced Kolb pilot, it would be different. But for you, there
would be a risk that you would be having an unplanned landing before your
skills are up to it.
John Jung
DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Kolb gang,
> Ive been watching the list for a while now in silence. Im building a
> Firefly & have everything covered & painted with tail feathers installed &
> cables hooked up. I will be needing an engine purty soon. I had over 100
> hours on Wizard J-3 W/ Kawasaki 440. super easy to start & never any
> problems.
>
> Question: Anyone know or heard of anybody using a k. 440 on
> a Kolb or who makes a redrive for it?
>
> Hope I did this right! Ed Diebel (Building
> Firefly in Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 |
One of the guys in our EAA chapter has a Kaw 440 on an old Drifter, will
ask him who made the redrive.
Can't think of why it wouldn't work just fine.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hi Kolb gang,
> Ive been watching the list for a while now in silence. Im building a
>Firefly & have everything covered & painted with tail feathers installed &
>cables hooked up. I will be needing an engine purty soon. I had over 100
>hours on Wizard J-3 W/ Kawasaki 440. super easy to start & never any
>problems.
>
> Question: Anyone know or heard of anybody using a k. 440 on
>a Kolb or who makes a redrive for it?
>
> Hope I did this right! Ed Diebel (Building
>Firefly in Houston)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 |
Ed,
J-Bird is the Kawasaki guru. Its been a while since I've used his services
but I remember that he had redrives for kawas.
J Bird
PO Box 438
210 Main Street
Kewaskum WI 53040
262-626-2611
good luck
Geoff Thistlethwaite
> >
> >Hi Kolb gang,
> > Ive been watching the list for a while now in silence. Im building
a
> >Firefly & have everything covered & painted with tail feathers installed
&
> >cables hooked up. I will be needing an engine purty soon. I had over 100
> >hours on Wizard J-3 W/ Kawasaki 440. super easy to start & never any
> >problems.
> >
> > Question: Anyone know or heard of anybody using a k. 440
on
> >a Kolb or who makes a redrive for it?
> >
> > Hope I did this right! Ed Diebel (Building
> >Firefly in Houston)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS wiring harness |
Hi Gang,
Thanks for the responses of the wiring harness issue. I was pretty sure I
was going to get it and now I'm convinced it's the correct thing to do. I
guess this solves the issue of not being able to reach the instrument dash
if all the buttons to change screens are under the edge of the seat.
On a different subject I would like to bring up a issue that was being
discussed a couple of weeks ago--fuel lines. I have a 1994 kit that I'm
building and was planning on using the fuel lines that came with the kit.
After the fuel line discussion I got concerned about the lines since they
were almost six years old so I got to inspecting them closely and still plan
on using them. They look like new lines and the material is very tuff, clear
and not the least bit dry rotted or show any signs of deteration. The label
on the line reads Superthane Ether. Does anyone know where this line can be
purchased? May want to buy some more to keep on standby. Maybe someone has
some experience with this line good or bad. Again thanks and with ya'lls
continued advice maybe I'll be in the air before the end of the year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS wiring harness |
Trying to reply to this list, but keep getting a rejection notice??
John,
If your in doubt, for the few $$ in cost of new lines, buy new. California
Power Systems or LEAF, Aircraft Spruce, all carry lines and at a fairly low
cost.
Mike Heit A&P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS wiring harness |
I purchased additional fuel line material from Aircraft Spruce when I built
my Mark111 in 1991. I required additional material as I have a more
complex fuel system than the original Mark111 had (supplementary
electric pump, two large aluminum tanks that are individually
switchable, and two sight fuel gages located between the seats that are
made from clear fuel line). The fuel line that I purchased from A/S was
approved by Burt Rutan for use in one of his canards. It has lasted for
9 years and is still soft and pliable (I just gave my entire fuel system a
careful checkup several days ago). I had one small problem about a year
ago with a 1/8th inch line that went to my fuel pressure gage, it developed
a hard spot and cracked. The crack appeared where the air and gas line
was maintained. Pressure from my fuel pump would force gas through
the 1/8th inch line until the air pressure in the remaining line to the
gauge
would equalize.
This experience has taught me to keep my fuel lines full of gas as the
most damage seems to occur where air and gas are both present
within the line.
Brian "Kim" Steiner
Saskatchewan, Canada
Mark111, 582, 301.7 hours
> John,
> If your in doubt, for the few $$ in cost of new lines, buy new.
California
> Power Systems or LEAF, Aircraft Spruce, all carry lines and at a fairly
low
> cost.
>
> Mike Heit A&P
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Room at OSH available |
Well, my on-again off-again plans for OSH are off again, at least for most
of it, so the room I had reserved will be available. This is a room with a
queen bed in a nice house with central air. The hostess, Sharon Hawkins,
provides continental breakfast. She works the EAA too so it should be
possible to catch a ride with her to and from the show when she goes. The
house is close to a bus line so you can get to/from that way too. Its
available for the whole show.
If interested, contact Sharon Hawkins, 920-232-8554.
Please email me if you get the room so I can get my deposit back.
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 |
The Kawasaki 440 is an exceptional engine that should provide plenty of
power for a Firefly. My friend got one from J-bird for my old Pterodactyl
along with a four belt reduction drive, he loves it. It only burns about a
gallon and a quart an hour at 45mph and is smooth and reliable. I believe
the entire engine and beltdrive package only cost around $1200. He has been
flying it for quite a few years with no problems. Pennzoil air cooled at 30
to 1.
The biggest problem you will have is the mounting of the redrive. The
Kawis don't have a provision to mount the redrive to the engine like the
Rotax, Hirth, and 2si does. With the Kolb setup, you'll need to find an
engine with a crankcase provision for a redrive. I believe I have heard in
the past that either J-bird or Steve Beatty could supply these, but I might
be mistaken.
Let me know what you find out, I always thought that the 440 and the Firefly
would make the perfect UL, if you could bolt a gearbox to it. I am thinking
that the 2si 3.06 to 1 Nova gearmate would be an ideal gearbox for this
setup, its smooth and light.
Good Luck,
Denny Rowe
rowedl(at)alltel.net
Western PA
Building Mark-3
Flying Loehle SP
-----Original Message-----
From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com <DAquaNut(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 7:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kawasaki 440
>
>Hi Kolb gang,
> Ive been watching the list for a while now in silence. Im building
a
>Firefly & have everything covered & painted with tail feathers installed
&
>cables hooked up. I will be needing an engine purty soon. I had over 100
>hours on Wizard J-3 W/ Kawasaki 440. super easy to start & never any
>problems.
>
> Question: Anyone know or heard of anybody using a k. 440
on
>a Kolb or who makes a redrive for it?
>
> Hope I did this right! Ed Diebel (Building
>Firefly in Houston)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Room at OSH taken |
Looks like the room I posted at OSH (Sharon Hawkins') has been taken
(Charlie, be sure to let me and/or the list know if anything changes.)
I will in fact be going but not until Friday or Saturday, and I'll just
camp. Look forward to seeing y'all!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Does anybody have any good photos of the doors and door latches on the
Mark-3, that they could e-mail to me. I am thinking about building my own
doors, and none of my photographs from Lakeland have the details of the
latches.
Thanks a bunch,
Denny Rowe
rowedl(at)alltel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 |
Ed,
Another engine that you should consider for your Firefly is the 377 Rotax,
You can find these really cheap from older Skidoo sleds, and they already
should have CDI ignitions, I'll bet Airscrew Performance would have one in
stock with a gearbox. They are a 447 with smaller bore cylinders, this
makes them as sturdy as the 503, and they should be really easy on fuel.
Ask everyone on the list who is flying the 377 to chime in on how they like
it, I'll bet they are all happy with it.
Denny rowe
rowedl@alltel,net
-----Original Message-----
From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com <DAquaNut(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 7:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kawasaki 440
>
>Hi Kolb gang,
> Ive been watching the list for a while now in silence. Im building
a
>Firefly & have everything covered & painted with tail feathers installed
&
>cables hooked up. I will be needing an engine purty soon. I had over 100
>hours on Wizard J-3 W/ Kawasaki 440. super easy to start & never any
>problems.
>
> Question: Anyone know or heard of anybody using a k. 440
on
>a Kolb or who makes a redrive for it?
>
> Hope I did this right! Ed Diebel (Building
>Firefly in Houston)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WingManBill2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | finishing tapes on control surfaces |
I'm debating on putting finishing tapes on all my control surfaces, I'm told
it's optional, I know it would give extra strength and make them look nicer,
but concerned bout the extra weight and possible flutter especially with the
aileron. So what you guys think? I'm well into the covering process, it's
really not all that bad for those of you that are apprehensive bout the whole
process!
Bill J
Building Mark III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
by smtp102.urscorp.com (Lotus Domino Release 5.0.2c (Intl))
with ESMTP id 2000072414574876":183543(at)matronics.com;
| Subject: | Re: more on Mark-3 Doors |
2000) at 07/24/2000 03:05:25 PM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on SMTP102/URSCorp(Release 5.0.2c (Intl)|2 February
2000) at 07/24/2000 02:57:48 PM,
Serialize by Router on SMTP102/URSCorp(Release 5.0.2c (Intl)|2 February
2000) at 07/24/2000 02:57:52 PM,
Serialize complete at 07/24/2000 02:57:52 PM
Can you use the same rivet holes for the the windscreen as for the door
hinges?
I would be interested in the door and latch photos as well.
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
5383 Hollister Avenue, Suite 120
Santa Barbara, California 93111
805-683-0200
805-683-0201 fax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Group,
Anybody have a Rotax 377 on a firefly or fire star that would like to
discuss your experience with it? Such as likes & dislikes. Maybe someone
has done some research on gal per hr , in the real world.
( All info is appreciated)
Ed Diebel
( building firefly in Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Group,
I had a 377 on my original Firestar and now I have a 503 Firestar II. The
503 will almost match the 377 for fuel burn, and easily outclimbs it. Not
that you need more climb. The 377 could climb at 900 fpm for the first 1000.
The advantage of a 377 would be price. But be careful. A lot of them are old
enough to need crank seals even if they had little use.
The 377 burned 2 - 2.75 gph and the 503 burns 2.25 - 3 gallons per hour.
John Jung
DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Group,
> Anybody have a Rotax 377 on a firefly or fire star that would like to
> discuss your experience with it? Such as likes & dislikes. Maybe someone
> has done some research on gal per hr , in the real world.
> ( All info is appreciated)
>
> Ed Diebel
> ( building firefly in Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: finishing tapes on control surfaces |
Bill and Gang,
I'm putting my tapes on now and am putting them on all the edges of all
control surfaces and the ribs on the ailerons and elevators. Have completed
all the tail pieces and am working on the ailerons now and then I'll start
on the wings. The process that Jim Miller describes to put tapes on the
leading edges of the elevators and ailerons over Homer's bumps works well. I
have never heard of tapes on the tail surfaces and ailerons causing flutter.
The extra weight is not an issue in my opinion. Also I had a 1988 model
Twinstar that didn't have any kind of reinforcement on the rib noses on the
elevators and ailerons and the fabric was getting pretty bad rashes in these
spots.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
>
> I'm debating on putting finishing tapes on all my control surfaces, I'm
told
> it's optional, I know it would give extra strength and make them look
nicer,
> but concerned bout the extra weight and possible flutter especially with
the
> aileron. So what you guys think?
> Bill J
> Building Mark III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Epbonsell(at)aol.com |
Hi,
I've been on the list for about 6 months but i haven't said much so far. I've
been really busy. I have an 86 Firestar with a 377 and 66" a warp drive prop
and i couldn't be happier. I have about 350 hrs on it. It has a spot around
4800 rpm where it really like to run. On a good day it'll purr along all day
at about 1.9 gallons per gallons hour. Of coarse weight is always a factor
with fuel consumption. I weigh about 130. Another thing is fuel/air mixture.
I have mine set so at 4800 rpm it runs at about 1100 to 1150 egt. 1200 is
maximim. When i first got it it ran good but cooler. The rings carboned up
after about 100 hrs. Ever since i've been running it hotter I haven' had any
problems. I've been using penzoil air cooled oil.You'll notice in the summer
when it gets hot the egt will go down. 100LL will also make the engine run
cooler. When the temp gets too low you not only start loosing power, carbon
starts building up. The spark plugs will verify what the egt says. Mine are a
nice brown. Unfortunately my plane was in a fire in the hanger it was in and
got a little crispy around the edges. Not too bad but it will need a some
rebuilding and new fabric. The plane sat out in the hanger for over a year.
Got rain, snow and birdcrap on it. When I finally got it home the engine was
a little stiff when i turned the prop around. I poured some straight oil in
each cylinder and cranked it around a few times. Then i poured in some
regular gas/oil mix. Believe it or not it started first pull. I ran it for 5
or 10 minutes and everything ran as it did the last time Flew it. I took off
the exuast manifold and the pistons and cylinder walls were still clean and
you can still see some of the cross marks from honing the cylinders. I hope
to have it in the air again by spring 2001. I love that 377.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 7/24/00 3:33:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, DAquaNut(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Anybody have a Rotax 377 on a firefly or fire star that would like to
discuss your experience with it? Such as likes & dislikes. >>
There is an Original Firestar [circa 1985, approx,] flying at our field with
a 377 that outclimbs any other UL there. The pilot is about 175 lbs. Can't
say about fuel burn.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: finishing tapes on control surfaces |
John,
Your twin star... I just bought a Ultra Star in the box unbuilt... but no
drawings or plans... any ideas on this bird? Love to get her flying soon..
Mike Heit
A&P
John Cooley wrote:
>
> Bill and Gang,
> I'm putting my tapes on now and am putting them on all the edges of all
> control surfaces and the ribs on the ailerons and elevators. Have completed
> all the tail pieces and am working on the ailerons now and then I'll start
> on the wings. The process that Jim Miller describes to put tapes on the
> leading edges of the elevators and ailerons over Homer's bumps works well. I
> have never heard of tapes on the tail surfaces and ailerons causing flutter.
> The extra weight is not an issue in my opinion. Also I had a 1988 model
> Twinstar that didn't have any kind of reinforcement on the rib noses on the
> elevators and ailerons and the fabric was getting pretty bad rashes in these
> spots.
>
> Later,
> John Cooley
> Building FS II #1162
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert F. Bean" <rfbean(at)rochester.infi.net> |
Well, here's where I admit to no actual ultralight experience, unless
you count
my attempt this spring to fly a ragwing ultrapiet. It looked pretty good
(new)
and the builder, age 78, has built and crashed many a homebuilt in the
past.
---Volksplane, engine seized maiden flight...hyperlight, a thing of
beauty, flown
successfully by EAA pres, stalled and spun in. Amazingly, this guy's
still alive,
although a little shorter. ---so anyway I looked the baby piet over,
didn't like
the way the up aileron cables went slack, the harness fit crappy, but
after the
tail was lifted to prime the engine, it started and ran great. Me with
2-stroke
experience limited to poulan and stiehl! Nice long runway, so I
advanced the
cheezy little throttle and it pulled STRONG! At liftoff, between the
meager
aileron response and the horrendous torque twist, it felt like it would
roll right
over, ditto on throttle retard, only it the other direction. After a
couple more
tries, with a max altitude achieved of maybe 2 feet, I headed back to
the
garage. ---'nuff excitment for one day. Oh, by the way, that Kawasaki
440
is a great little engine. (next, he's bring over to my strip one of
those little
ultra j-3 thingys with a 277 pulling, we'll see what happens) BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)tetric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: finishing tapes on control surfaces |
>All,
>I have never heard of tapes on the tail surfaces and ailerons causing flutter.
>The extra weight is not an issue in my opinion.
I think adding unnecessary weight at the trailing edge (where there are no
seams) of rudder, elevators or ailerons potentially makes a difference in a
tendency to cause flutter. Build it light.
Later,
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 |
I love my Rotax 377. I get 850-1000 fpm climb depending on conditions. I
don't need any more power than that. I get between 1.7 and 2.5 GPH
depending on how fast I want to go.
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 377
Schenectady, NY
http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kawasaki 440
>
> Ed,
> Another engine that you should consider for your Firefly is the 377 Rotax,
> You can find these really cheap from older Skidoo sleds, and they already
> should have CDI ignitions, I'll bet Airscrew Performance would have one in
> stock with a gearbox. They are a 447 with smaller bore cylinders, this
> makes them as sturdy as the 503, and they should be really easy on fuel.
> Ask everyone on the list who is flying the 377 to chime in on how they
like
> it, I'll bet they are all happy with it.
> Denny rowe
> rowedl@alltel,net
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com <DAquaNut(at)aol.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, July 23, 2000 7:33 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Kawasaki 440
>
>
> >
> >Hi Kolb gang,
> > Ive been watching the list for a while now in silence. Im building
> a
> >Firefly & have everything covered & painted with tail feathers installed
> &
> >cables hooked up. I will be needing an engine purty soon. I had over 100
> >hours on Wizard J-3 W/ Kawasaki 440. super easy to start & never any
> >problems.
> >
> > Question: Anyone know or heard of anybody using a k. 440
> on
> >a Kolb or who makes a redrive for it?
> >
> > Hope I did this right! Ed Diebel (Building
> >Firefly in Houston)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | She Flew Today!(Saturday) |
Richard,
Great to hear about your SS flying! I remember the very first SlingShot
flight very well! It was just before SNF and it was either rain, snow or
wind - I choose the wind. My first tentative hop became a full flight as I
quicly felt it out and rapidly discovered how well it handled the
turbulence. EASY! It laughed at the wind. Effortless handling and plenty
of power. Good to hear you have come to the same conclusions.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard
Swiderski
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: She Flew Today!(Saturday)
Kolbers,
I was exhausted Saturday nite & didn't give much details on my 1st
flight
with
SlingShot #003. So you 582 pilots can compare, the 587 motor was originally
in
a
SeaDoo personal watercraft. The bore/stroke & most of its parts are
identical to
the 582. The rear 1/3 of the crankshaft had to be pressed off & replaced
with
one that had a tapered end. The case had to be machined, drilled & tapped
to
accept a Rotax gear box. We put a 582 water pump & thermostat housing on
it,
with a 180 dgree auto thermostat that we cut to fit & drilled two 1/8" holes
in
to allow constant circulation & bleeding of air. We had to completely rejet
all
three sections of the two Mikuni BN altitude compensating, diaphram
carburators. We exchanged the stock 132 degree rotary valve (which is also
in
the 582) with a little higher performance 147 degree valve. The radiator is
from a VW Rabbit.
Because the carbs have a returning fuel line, that complicated my goal
to
have the
rear tank empty 1st without using valves. Coming up with a way to refuel
the
inaccessable fuel tanks without crawling into the back with small gas cans
was
also
a challenge. I am shamefully proud of the elegant but simple solution I
ended
up
with. I'll post pics of it when I get my webpage up.
I did the 1st flight on a private 1/2 mile grass strip. We spent 3 days
making
sure the engine will live at full throttle without any worry & that was a
major
ace
in the hole when it all came down to the wire to fly it for the 1st time.
The
60",
3 blade, wide paddle Precision Propellor with p-tips inlaid, was set at 16
degrees
of pitch, yielding a full throtle static pull of 6000rpm with 315 degree CHT
&
980
degree EGT on the mag cylinder (hottest). The wind was a gusting 10- 20mph
as a
45
degree cross wind. It was 98 degrees F & 100% humidity, 100ft above sea
level. I
taxied with the tail up to get used to the rudder & throttle ( a motor cycle
throttle on the joy stick), did a couple of crow hops, flew down the runway
about a
foot off the ground for awhile, then went for it. Full throttle climb out at
50mph
had CHT of 315, EGT of 960 & 6000rpm (interestingly the prop didnot unload
at
all). Climbed to the 1200ft ceiling & tried to do some stalls. It wouldn't
break,
just mushed at 35mph indicated, with a 350fpm sinkrate, using a 5000rpm
throttle
&
about 3 degrees of flaperon. It maintained controlable flight at 41mph &
4000rpm.
5500rpm showed 60mph. Straight & level full throttle yielded 6300rpm, 980
EGT &
310 CHT & a speed of 75mph. In all settings the water tempt never exceeded
180
degrees. The prop had too much pitch & we dropped it to 14 degrees. Static
pull
full throttle then yielded 6300rpm, 312 CHT, & 1050 EGT. The take off
rolled
was
dramatically reduced & it leaped into the air. Full throttle climbout at
50mph
showed 6540rpm (here prop unloaded 200rpm from static) 315 CHT & 1040 EGT.
Straight & level wide open throttle got up to 6850rpm & stopped & backed
off.
CHT
was 320, EGT was 1080 & ASI showed 85 mph & the windshield was bowing in.
The weather broke & I played around a little bit. The controls are very
fast
& lite in
roll & pitch. It feels instantaneous yet there is no tendency to over
control.
It
seemed like I just had to think it & the plane would do it. I did some 3/4
power
near vertical stalls & rotated 180 degrees as the nose fell through. Speed
went
from 20mph on top to 80mph after a gentle pull up. The visibility was
stunning.
As the horizon rotated, I felt like I was just stuck out in front of the
wing
with
no cabin at all. At cruise I could see above & behind the leading edge,
below &
behind the wing, straight down below each shoulder & with just a touch of
bank,
even below & to the other side. The plane flys smooth & rock solid. Dennis
should
be aweful proud of this incredible flying machine.
Two parameters do not seem to fall in line. The rate of climb showed
600fpm
on
both prop settings even though the 1st had a long take off role & the 2nd it
leaped
up after about 150ft. The 2nd anomaly is that my buddy in a Piper Cherokee
said
he
chased me around the pattern twice, trying to catch up & there is no way I
could
of
only been doing 70mph. The ASI & VSI share the same static port & it may
have a
problem.
With 2 hr of day light left, we packed it up. I was exhausted. It was
an
emotionally gruelling day. The intensity & extreme focus did not lend to a
sense
of having fun but it was exciting & immensely satisfying. I can't wait for
a
better day & learn more about the plane. ...Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: She Flew Today!(Saturday) |
Dennis,
Hello. I left a phone message earlier. The New Kolb company sent me your #.
I just bought a Kolb UltraStar in the boxes for $2,500.00 in an estate sale.
But, no drawings or documents! The factory suggested maybe you would have copies
of the plans/builders manual for this bird?
It came with a Cyuna 430, belt drive and 2 blade wood prop. A two page color
brochure with the photo of the UltraStar on it. I am quite excited about
building the bird and flying it. Can you help?
Mike Heit
A&P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: more on Mark-3 Doors |
Yes.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>Can you use the same rivet holes for the the windscreen as for the door
>hinges?
>Erich Weaver
>erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
>5383 Hollister Avenue, Suite 120
>Santa Barbara, California 93111
>
>805-683-0200
>805-683-0201 fax
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: more on Mark-3 Doors |
Just for planning purposes: use aluminum rivets when you put the windscreen
and doors on because the Lexan will get scratched up, and you can more
readily drill out the aluminum rivets to replace the Lexan.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: more on Mark-3 Doors |
Be sure to deburr the holes as well as use a drill bit modified for Lexan use
and deburr the holes in the Lexan, which should be drilled out about 1/8th"
larger than the rivet hole size to keep the lexan from cracking under vibration
and flight loads. Be very careful with any petroleum vapors or fluids around
the lexan, one swipe and it's toast!
Aluminum (2024 series) rivets should be easy to drill out when replacement is
needed. I use a #800 grit cloth used for plastic polishing to finish the edges
of the lexan, this keeps it from forming stress points along the long edges.
It's also great for removing small surface scratches later on... use lots of
water in that process.
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> Just for planning purposes: use aluminum rivets when you put the windscreen
> and doors on because the Lexan will get scratched up, and you can more
> readily drill out the aluminum rivets to replace the Lexan.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Hudson" <phudson(at)iwvisp.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax 447 quiz (some answers!) |
Hi gang,
Well I finally had my firestar II up yesterday (yeah!). For those who have
followed the this thread and provided so many helpful hints... here's what I
learned yesterday.
First off, I forget who it was, but way back in the beginning of this saga
someone said I was over-propped.
I wasn't too sure about that one...at the time I was convinced it was fuel
related. Well over-propped it was so I'm waiting for my "I told you so" to
come in :)
So the 68 inch Ivo-prop is now turned down to about 26-28 inches of pitch.
and she runs consistantly.
While setting the jetting one last time on Saturday I went to a very rich
main jet (195) I found it would turn up nicely to 5500 RPM then cool off and
slow down to 4500 as the throttle was slowly opened. This gave me a nice
indication of where the main jet comes on!
The final settings for the weekend where
185 main jet; and the 15K2 needle set rich (lowest groove)
ON THE GROUND were:
6000 RPM static (MAX) 1125 egt 410 cht
5000 RPM 1150 egt 400 cht
this is still pretty warm but I wanted to see the difference in the air
before deciding what next.
IN THE AIR (3000 asl)
6000 RPM max (I really thought this would go up?) climb at 45-50MPH egt 1100
cht 380 (sweet!)
5000 RPM (I actually needed 5200 or so to maintain altitude at 45-50 mph)
egt 1200 cht 360-375
even less RPM lowered the temps, and full throttle lowered EGT and raised
CHT back to previous values
So several things stand out here. The temps were consistant on the ground
and in the air but the EGT came down on full throttle settings and went up
on cruise RPMs. The CHT went down on both by about 30 degrees. Oddly
enough the RPMs didn't go up noticably between ground runs and climb.
I think I'll try a larger needle jet to bring down that cruise EGT.
She flew beautifully and is in hands off trim at 47 MPH indicated. Stalls
at 37 indicated (GPS said about 34)
The stalls were the mildest I've ever felt (kind of anti-climatic really).
The stick just got sloppy and the nose drops about 5 or 10 degrees Several
full stop touch and gos ...the 447 did what it was told, when it was told,
so that made all these trials and tests a little more worth it.
One thing though. I couldn't get a 60 MPH cruise even at full throttle...I
suspect this flattened out big prop just isn't ideal for the Firestar II
with a 447. I'd love to try a 60" with a bit more bite...maybe if I'm
really nice to my wife...
Thanks for listening,
-Peter-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Martin" <don_martin(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Instrument Panel For Sale |
>From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb Instrument Panel For Sale
>Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 19:42:30 +0100
>
>
>Group,
>
>Who is building a Firestar or FireFly and wants to save time and money on
>instruments?
>
>I am selling a panel built by Kolb, complete with instruments, wiring
>harness
>and 2 EGT plus 2 CHT sending units. It attaches to the nose cone with 4
>wing
>nuts and can be installed in about an hour. You could take weeks off your
>build
>time with this panel, plus save about $300 on instruments.
>
>See a picture at: http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Inflight.html
>
>It includes an 100 mph airspeed indicator, digital tach with reset able
>hour
>meter and flight time, altimeter, slip indicator, compass, key switch,
>switch
>for testing dual ignition, and a switch to change temperature gauge from
>front
>to back cylinders. Everything has worked perfectly for the two years that I
>used it but I am selling because I bought an EIS.
>
>Price is $450 for everything, or $350 without the airspeed indicator.
>
>If you are interested, contact me off-list at: jrjung(at)execpc.com
>
>John Jung
>
>
Hello John,
Am very much interested. Is the panel still for sale? Please contact me
don_martin(at)hotmail.com.
Thanks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark-3 Doors |
I made my own latches and installed them in the bottom rear corners of the
doors. I made triangular aluminum plates
from .032 aluminum and pop riveted them to the bottom rear corners of the
doors. My latches pas through the plates.
By doing it this way I did not weaken the bottom tubing, the original
instructions called for drilling holes about mid way
in the bottom door tubing.
Brian "Kim" Steiner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 12:06 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark-3 Doors
>
> Does anybody have any good photos of the doors and door latches on the
> Mark-3, that they could e-mail to me. I am thinking about building my own
> doors, and none of my photographs from Lakeland have the details of the
> latches.
> Thanks a bunch,
> Denny Rowe
> rowedl(at)alltel.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 447 quiz (some answers!) |
Think you are right about 68" maybe being too much prop. I have only a 66"
Ivoprop on the 532 with 64 HP, that 447 is probably all tapped out static,
and unable to unload the prop any in flight.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hi gang,
>
>Well I finally had my firestar II up yesterday (yeah!). For those who have
>followed the this thread and provided so many helpful hints... here's what I
>learned yesterday.
>
>First off, I forget who it was, but way back in the beginning of this saga
>someone said I was over-propped.
>I wasn't too sure about that one...at the time I was convinced it was fuel
>related. Well over-propped it was so I'm waiting for my "I told you so" to
>come in :)
>
>So the 68 inch Ivo-prop is now turned down to about 26-28 inches of pitch.
>and she runs consistantly.
>While setting the jetting one last time on Saturday I went to a very rich
>main jet (195) I found it would turn up nicely to 5500 RPM then cool off and
>slow down to 4500 as the throttle was slowly opened. This gave me a nice
>indication of where the main jet comes on!
>
>The final settings for the weekend where
>185 main jet; and the 15K2 needle set rich (lowest groove)
>
>ON THE GROUND were:
>6000 RPM static (MAX) 1125 egt 410 cht
>5000 RPM 1150 egt 400 cht
>
>this is still pretty warm but I wanted to see the difference in the air
>before deciding what next.
>
>IN THE AIR (3000 asl)
>6000 RPM max (I really thought this would go up?) climb at 45-50MPH egt 1100
>cht 380 (sweet!)
>5000 RPM (I actually needed 5200 or so to maintain altitude at 45-50 mph)
>egt 1200 cht 360-375
>
>even less RPM lowered the temps, and full throttle lowered EGT and raised
>CHT back to previous values
>
>So several things stand out here. The temps were consistant on the ground
>and in the air but the EGT came down on full throttle settings and went up
>on cruise RPMs. The CHT went down on both by about 30 degrees. Oddly
>enough the RPMs didn't go up noticably between ground runs and climb.
>
>I think I'll try a larger needle jet to bring down that cruise EGT.
>
>She flew beautifully and is in hands off trim at 47 MPH indicated. Stalls
>at 37 indicated (GPS said about 34)
>The stalls were the mildest I've ever felt (kind of anti-climatic really).
>The stick just got sloppy and the nose drops about 5 or 10 degrees Several
>full stop touch and gos ...the 447 did what it was told, when it was told,
>so that made all these trials and tests a little more worth it.
>
>One thing though. I couldn't get a 60 MPH cruise even at full throttle...I
>suspect this flattened out big prop just isn't ideal for the Firestar II
>with a 447. I'd love to try a 60" with a bit more bite...maybe if I'm
>really nice to my wife...
>
>Thanks for listening,
>-Peter-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 447 quiz (some answers!) |
Peter,
If you have three blades, the prop is limiting your speed.
And it sound like you have a well built Kolb.
But I would be worried about any Rotax that needs different jetting that
recommended for your altitude. I have own 5 different Rotaxes and they all run
well on stock jetting. I believe that a significant change in jetting is a sign
of more serious engine trouble. Be carefull where you fly, and remember: If
that engine quits on takeoff, get the nose down fast. Those mild stalls can
give a Kolb pilot a false sense of security. They do stall and spin and you
don't want it to happen close to the ground.
John Jung
Peter Hudson wrote:
>
> Hi gang,
>
> Well I finally had my firestar II up yesterday (yeah!).
snip...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark-3 Doors |
You can save a lot of time and effort by contacting Glenn Rinch in Grand
Ridge Fl-His phone number is 850-592-8547. Many on this list know him or
have had Kolbs built by him-If anyone knows he does.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Finishing tapes on control surfaces |
"I'm debating on putting finishing tapes on all my control surfaces, I'm
told"
Since the ailerons are counterbalanced I don't see where this would be a
factor for flutter. Couldn't say for the tail surfaces although the weight
increase would seem minimal.
Rody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing tapes on control surfaces |
In all the kit planes I have built, only the Avid Magnum had balanced tail
surfaces. I put anti chafe tapes on them too. All, kitfoxes, etc. used the
tapes. No flutter problems either way.
jrodebush wrote:
>
>
> "I'm debating on putting finishing tapes on all my control surfaces, I'm
> told"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: av-gas query |
KW
100LL--add and forget about it.The engine will perform well with no
adjustments in mixture.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ULflyer86(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 07/19/00 |
Ya'! Use HOMESTEAD!!!!!! www.homestead.com is the best and easiest site to
use.......I've used Dreamweaver 3, Fireworks 3,
Adobe Photoshop 5.5 TONS of other Adobe, Microsoft and just plain downloads
like geocities. Don't believe that it's good? Check out there aviation sites!
I've only put about 4-5 hours into mine and it came out OK. check it out!
http://Erics_Plane_Page.homestead.com
~Eric
Chalet Suzanne Airport, Lake Wales FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 07/19/00 |
URL inoperative ?
ULflyer86(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Ya'! Use HOMESTEAD!!!!!! www.homestead.com is the best and easiest site to
> use.......I've used Dreamweaver 3, Fireworks 3,
> Adobe Photoshop 5.5 TONS of other Adobe, Microsoft and just plain downloads
> like geocities. Don't believe that it's good? Check out there aviation sites!
> I've only put about 4-5 hours into mine and it came out OK. check it out!
> http://Erics_Plane_Page.homestead.com
>
> ~Eric
> Chalet Suzanne Airport, Lake Wales FL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 07/19/00 |
Sorry Eric, it won't go thru. Can't access your site. Big
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 07/19/00
>
> URL inoperative ?
>
> ULflyer86(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Ya'! Use HOMESTEAD!!!!!! www.homestead.com is the best and easiest site
to
> > use.......I've used Dreamweaver 3, Fireworks 3,
> > Adobe Photoshop 5.5 TONS of other Adobe, Microsoft and just plain
downloads
> > like geocities. Don't believe that it's good? Check out there aviation
sites!
> > I've only put about 4-5 hours into mine and it came out OK. check it
out!
> > http://Erics_Plane_Page.homestead.com
> >
> > ~Eric
> > Chalet Suzanne Airport, Lake Wales FL
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: gps palm pilot |
Has anyone else used a Garmin GPS12? I bought one last year at Office Depot
for 138.00 and it does everything I need it to.G.Aman FS2 55.5 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
Is there an expert out there who can explain how the Balun works!
There is no physical electical connection of the center wire
of the coax as explained in the Kitfox assembly manual and it
just does not look like it should work! The shield is split and
the VOR cat's whiskers are connected to each of the split ends of
the shielded wire.
There are three or four commonly used "balun" (short for balanced
to unbalanced) fabrication techniques using coaxial cable. You can
also do the job with little ferrite core transformers . . in fact
an antenna company in MO used to offer some antennas to amateur
airplane builders that used small transformers inside a molded
plastic center insulator on their products.
It's not easy to explain. Some excellent info on transmission line
theory and grass-roots practice can be gleaned from American Radio
Relay League's publications on antennas and feedlines for radio
amateurs.
I understand the purpose of the balun is to balance the impedance of the
feedline to that of the antenna.
Correct . . .
Is there another way to feed a VOR antenna?
Sure . . . hook the shield to one whisker and the center conductor
to the other whisker. Putting a balun in the system is a mixed bag.
It adds complexity . . . more solder joints . . . should be checked
with an antenna analyzer to see if everything is cut to proper
length . . . bottom line is that you'll not be able to percieve
any difference in performance by simply judging how well your VOR
receiver works. Other airframe effects such as electrical system noise,
p-static and atmospherics can have worse effects on VOR reciver performance
than the fact that you failed to "properly" terminate your coax cable
There's a popular kit offered where ferrite beads or toroids are
slipped over the coax in immediate vicinity of the feedline attachment
to the antenna. I illlustrate this in my book's chapter on antennas
and feedlines. I've since learned (and seen demonstrated in the
lab) that a few toroids are not enough to make a difference. It takes
several dozen to equal the effects of a properly implemented balun.
VHF is line of sight stuff. If you can "see" the station you can
hear it or talk to it and a wet string would probably suffice for
an antenna. The ol' vacuum tube radios of yesteryear needed EVERY
advantage we could give them . . . modern solid state receiver
technology will work with very marginal signals compared to 40
years ago.
Make it easy on yourself. Hook 'er up, make sure you do a good job
with the connections and protect them from stresses of vibration
and environment and call it quits . . . it'll work just fine.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 ignition problem |
For WGeorge---
Running basically the same setup you described-without problems--test range
on radio at 1000 ft----295 miles- to a club member on this list--
Wired everything in to get a steady ( Min) 12 volts--from reading your post
my conclusion is you did everything right--the solution or alternate
solution is to re-connect/one item at a time-check out complete system and
add (1) item at a time--again from your post it seems your grounds are
ok.--but double check.-Aware of problem on 912 were one engine could not be
shut down--the basic rule is it is at the switch or on the engine-take your
time. Don't loose confidence.!
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Hudson" <phudson(at)iwvisp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 447 quiz (some answers!) |
John,
> If you have three blades, the prop is limiting your speed.
It's a two blade 68" prop. I'm thinking about buying a couple of
60 inch blades to try.
> But I would be worried about any Rotax that needs different jetting that
> recommended for your altitude.
I was worried for a while but after all this looking inside, leak testing,
compression testing, plug reading, carb tuning, fuel system renovation,
etc.
I just dont believe anything is wrong with her. I asked the Rotax service
guy
directly "...and it doesn't surprise you that I'm running a 185 main jet
at a 1700 ft ASL airfield
in the desert". He said "nope not at all...especial in a hot dry
climate...or there is something wrong with your engine."
Thanks for the reminder not to take the gentle stall as permission for
carelessness!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 440 |
Reply for D---
never have seen the 440 on any make model or series of kolb---a very
reliable engine-had it on my spitfire--basically designed as an industrial
pump engine to run 24 hours a day--if me memory serves me correctly--2
models -- A-B.
Different ignitions -but both models very reliable--my personal opinion and
experiences.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
<<<>>>
i did. and i can if you dont get any other reply. let me
know
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 447 quiz (some answers!) |
Hey,
I don't think that you should drop all the way down to a 60inch blade from
your 68". Mabe try a 66" or a 64". Ask around on the list and I'll bet
most Kolbers will tell you the 60 inch is a little short for best
performance on your 2.58 to 1 reduction.
Denny Rowe
rowedl(at)alltel.net
PS: I have found on my 503 powered Loehle, 2.58 to 1, that the 66" is better
performing in all ways, than the 60".
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Hudson <phudson(at)iwvisp.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 12:23 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax 447 quiz (some answers!)
>
>John,
>
>
>> If you have three blades, the prop is limiting your speed.
>
>It's a two blade 68" prop. I'm thinking about buying a couple of
>60 inch blades to try.
>
>> But I would be worried about any Rotax that needs different jetting that
>> recommended for your altitude.
>
>I was worried for a while but after all this looking inside, leak testing,
> compression testing, plug reading, carb tuning, fuel system renovation,
>etc.
> I just dont believe anything is wrong with her. I asked the Rotax service
>guy
>directly "...and it doesn't surprise you that I'm running a 185 main jet
>at a 1700 ft ASL airfield
> in the desert". He said "nope not at all...especial in a hot dry
>climate...or there is something wrong with your engine."
>
>
>Thanks for the reminder not to take the gentle stall as permission for
>carelessness!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 447 quiz (some answers!) |
Concerning a 2 blade 68 " prop on a 447 firestar II. I am running a IVO
68 inch prop that I bought used from TOkolb (the old Kolb company) that
Dennis recommended. I have never had any problems with it either in speed
or rpms. I did have to (shims) unload it a bit to get 6300 static rpms on
it. My cruise at 6000 is 63 (gps) mph. At full power it turns between 65
and 6700 rpms. At neutral position- no shims it was too much for the motor.
So I had to put the shims on the side that forced it flatter. I have at
least 100 hours on it in that configuration. Before you make a investment
in a new blade, make sure that you have it adjusted so that you are turning
6300 static.
If any of you get the UL Flying mag. the article in there by Artie Trost
about the Alvord Desert is worth looking at.
Larry (the other one)
----------
> From: Peter Hudson <phudson(at)iwvisp.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax 447 quiz (some answers!)
> Date: Tuesday, July 25, 2000 9:03 PM
>
>
> John,
>
>
> > If you have three blades, the prop is limiting your speed.
>
> It's a two blade 68" prop. I'm thinking about buying a couple of
> 60 inch blades to try.
>
> > But I would be worried about any Rotax that needs different jetting
that
> > recommended for your altitude.
>
> I was worried for a while but after all this looking inside, leak
testing,
> compression testing, plug reading, carb tuning, fuel system renovation,
> etc.
> I just dont believe anything is wrong with her. I asked the Rotax
service
> guy
> directly "...and it doesn't surprise you that I'm running a 185 main
jet
> at a 1700 ft ASL airfield
> in the desert". He said "nope not at all...especial in a hot dry
> climate...or there is something wrong with your engine."
>
>
> Thanks for the reminder not to take the gentle stall as permission for
> carelessness!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 447 quiz (some answers!) |
Peter,
Don't waste your money going to shorter blades. A 377 Firestar uses a 66"
two blade prop, so a 447 caan certainly turn a 68".
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Waligroski, Greg" <gwaligro(at)ball.com> |
Ed,
I have been flying my 377 powered Firestar 2 in Colorado ( home field
elevation ~ 5000ft) for about 150 hours now and it has worked fine. I weigh
in at about 210 and my Firestar isn't particularly light (full windscreen,
brakes). I climb about as well as the other ULs at the airport with larger
engines and it looks like about 400-500fpm. I have been up as high as 12k
feet with it and was still climbing. Cruise speeds are good at around 58mph
at 5500rprm. I am not sure what my fuel burn is. I know if I cut back to
fly with my friends Quicksilver at 43mph and about 4800rpm I get pretty low
fuel burns (<2 gph?) My 377's history isn't real clear. The original owner
put about 140 hours on it, and I am not sure if he knew the original hours
on it, I have put another 150 on it since then. Has a unique? 3 bolt
gearbox to engine attachment. The engine has run quite well as long as fuel
has been running to it. The original owner ran pennzoil 50:1 and I have
been running 100:1 CAU with good results and little carbon build up (reminds
me I need to take another look in there..). I imagine in Houston your
performance would be better in the thicker air. I will confess though I just
purchased a 503 to boost my high altitude performance and increase the
climb. Nothing wrong with the 377 just had the opportunity to up the power.
Gregg
Boulder,Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
G.Aman,
I use the Garmin 12XL. If you want to know what else these Garmins can do,
check out my website: http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Waypoints_and_Maps.html
John Jung
ZepRep251(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Has anyone else used a Garmin GPS12? I bought one last year at Office Depot
> for 138.00 and it does everything I need it to.G.Aman FS2 55.5 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing |
> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several areas
>where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can use
>terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and add
>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
Each three steps in wire gage is about a 2x change in copper
cross section. For example, three 22AWG wires would have about
the same copper as a 17AWG . . . A blue (14-16AWG) butt splice
would be fine for what you propose . . .
The PROBLEM is that the circuit you've described must be protected
for 22AWG wire . . . it's okay to use 14AWG to extend a long circuit
for the purpose of lowering voltage drop but the circuit protection
needs to be sized for the SMALLEST wire in the circuit.
What is your application where the three way split seems necessary?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Armstrong
>
>
>Bob Nuckolls' explanation is (as usual) excellent and correctly points
>out that the KISS method will probably serve you well in this
>installation.
>
>For more detailed info on Baluns, you can find a good article at
>http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/pdf/8004019.pdf
>
>Bob RV-9A
>(AE0B, ARRL Technical Coordinator, Colorado Section)
Bob, Thank you for the heads-up on the article. I've
stashed it in my growing file of .pdf "savers".
It was interesting to note the pattern distortion
generated by the "improper" antenna feed . . . I've
seen patterns about as bad on airplanes when the antenna
WAS properly feed and matched . . . all the sticky-out
things on airplanes can do some amazing damage to an
otherwise perfectly good antenna pattern!
Bob . . .
K0DYH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Thanks for the K440 & rotax 377 replys,
Im still not sure which engine I want for my Firefly.
Question 1: Anyone have a Firefly , that could give me info on (REAL)
fuel burn per hr along with cruise speed &rpms and which engine and gear box
they are using.
Question 2: Is it better to go with the factory engine package or is
there a better route.
Question 3: Do they still make the rotax engine.
Sorry if I ask too many questions.
Thanks, Ed Diebel (building Firefly in Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
I really hate to add '"my two cents here" but --- I have an original firestar
and have had two 447s. At this altitude and my type of flying, both needed
the standard jet but had to use the 11G2 need (582 needle). tried a lot of
different combos but that one works for me. keeps chs up around 350 or so
and the egs up around 1100+. You can probably make the 447 work with any
blade but -- how much clearance do you have on the boom? not much I will
bet. I am running a 66"ivo on both engines and it works great. Gotta set it
for static at 6200-6250. Take off and climb-out should be around static. At
the altitude you are you need the long blade but when you have to depitch you
loose it. It is still too long to turn without straining the old girl. I
was told by Kolb (old Kolb) and Ivo to use the 66 and it has been great. If
anyone disagrees with my idea of runs great, should talk to Highsmith, Lovel,
and the rest of the gang from the Southern Flyers Ass. I can climb with the
best of them and if I add a little more pitch could cruise with the fastest.
(dont want to cruise that fast in the old firestar (five rib wing you know)
I fly RCs most of my life and I CAN tell you that longer blades raise heating
problems even when they are pitched down. A little shorter and more pitch is
easier for the engine to handle. My two cents. Ted Cowan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | elevator controls |
Group,
Anyone had any problems contol cables rubbing at the stick?
Mine do .
Would it hurt anything to bend the lower end of elevator control horn
at the stick about 1/8 in. I think this would solve my problem. Comments?
Ed Diebel (Building Firefly in Hou.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator controls |
Ed:
Yes, mine did too... I studied bending the horn, but decided I still might
have a rub there... Ended up putting a small aircraft control cable pulley
on the vertical tube brace to hold the left rudder cable down out of the way
of the horn... Ain't exactly elegant, but appears to solve the problem.
Good luck...
Beauford, the aluminum butcher of Brandon, FL
Firefly #76
----- Original Message -----
From: <>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 4:04 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: elevator controls
>
> Group,
> Anyone had any problems contol cables rubbing at the stick?
> Mine do
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | 912 oil radiator |
Hello,
This question is for anyone who got their 912 package from Kolb.
Did you get the fittings and nuts that are required to mount and hook up
the oil radiator or did you have to go find them yourself. I'm talking
about the 7/8 inch nuts for mounting and the fitting that screws into
the radiator inlet and outlet to hook up the hoses. I don't want to go
buy them if I already paid for them. Thanks for the help.
Monte
N65ME
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Epbonsell(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator controls |
Hi,
I have a piece of clear plastic tubing about a foot long over the cable the
place where it rubs. Works good. I've seen this on a few other firestars.
Ed - 86 firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rotax engines |
Hello Ed et al, Yes they are still making Rotax engines and I would recommend
using the Kolb engine package. All the R&D is done and there are plenty of
them flying with no significant problems. If you install some orphan engine
you will be the engineer and test pilot. Pioneering is fun if you know what
you are doing and have a lot of time, money and luck.
My FireFly, with the ~ 2 1/2 : 1 gearbox, averages about three gal per hour.
It climbs @ 1,000/min (max) and cruises @ just under 70 mph. This does not
mean I can go a distance of 70 miles on three gallons of gas. I'm sure she is
guzzling the fuel during climbout and a 10 knot wind makes a big difference
during an hour in the air. Her 3,000 rpm glide ratio is ~ 9:1. My figures
apply to my 270 Lb plane with all 155 Lbs of me in it and were made using the
ASI, ROC and GPS over repeated tests.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee FL, FireFly, 447, IVO, full canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 oil radiator |
Monte: My MK3 kit and 912 came from the real KOLB co. All the fittings
and mounting hardware came with the package.
RH MK3 912
N912RH
----- Original Message -----
From: Monte Evans <Monte84(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 5:53 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 912 oil radiator
>
> Hello,
>
> This question is for anyone who got their 912 package from Kolb.
> Did you get the fittings and nuts that are required to mount and hook up
> the oil radiator or did you have to go find them yourself. I'm talking
> about the 7/8 inch nuts for mounting and the fitting that screws into
> the radiator inlet and outlet to hook up the hoses. I don't want to go
> buy them if I already paid for them. Thanks for the help.
>
> Monte
> N65ME
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SDCOLLINS2(at)aol.com |
My name is Darrell Collins from Bailey, Co. I just bought a late 80's or
early 90 kolb twinstar. I need a set of construction plans and owner's
manuel. Can anyone help me? Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Hudson" <phudson(at)iwvisp.com> |
Hi gang,
>
>At this altitude and my type of flying, both needed
> the standard jet but had to use the 11G2 need (582 needle).
I bought one of these when I thought I was running rich. I seem to need
even more fuel than the 15K2 needle and 2.70 jet. (I just bought a 2.72 and
2.74 to try out) as it's runing now.
>-- how much clearance do you have on the boom? not much I will
> bet.
1 inch of clearance (pretty damn close if you ask me!) I'm actually
considering nipping an inch off each blade just for the clearance and to see
if a smaller prop is heading in the right direction. A 60" prop will keep
the rocks thrown off the wheels from hitting the blade (if the marks 3
incheds in on my 68" blade are an acurate gauge). The "ROTAX recommended"
props for the 447 and a 2.58 B-Box don't exceed 62" according to the CPS
catalog.
I'll try setting for a ground RPM of 6250 next and see what happens... What
are you guys really seeing for cruise (speed/rpm). A 60 MPH cruise would be
awfully handy out here compared to a 47 MPH one. With an adjustable prop
pitch I still can't tell if my motor is really a dog or if it's "normal".
(yeah back to "what the hell is normal" questions).
Thanks,
-Peter-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Group,
Well I spent the day a Oshkosh, and here is the Kolb news:
First, John Hauck is there. He picked up his plane and made it back to
Oshkosh. He will finish his trip home after the convention.
Second, Jim and Dondi have a Poly Fiber booth there, and they are even better
in person then on the phone. I enjoyed talking to both of them.
Third, and you may find this suprising, the Mark III Extra sat alone all day
while the new Kolbra got flown and all kinds of attention. The New Kolb
people that have flown it, are raving over it, saying things like "it handles
more like a Firestar thaen a Mark III", and "there is nothing that even
compares to it". At Sun-N-Fun the Extra got all the attention, but today the
Kolbra got much more.
If you are wondering how I can go Oshkosh for a day, I live 60 miles south.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BILLBEAM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Report |
John,
How much does it cost to get in this year???
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Anyone looking for a 377 Rotax might be interested in this note from
Airscrew performance.
Denny Rowe
-----Original Message-----
From: AIRSCREWS(at)aol.com <AIRSCREWS(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 10:02 AM
Subject: Re: 377 rotax
> yep i have one Steve (623) 931-6667
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | how many loose rivet stems in your plane? |
Hi all,
I'm making my typical good progress -- good on the geologic time scale
that is! Am finally finished building a new wing, which was in many
ways harder than the first time because of re-using some ribs and then
later finding something just slightly not so. For example, in some
cases I'd find myself needing a new rib nose flange (rib to front spar
tube), and feeling a little bold, I'd figure out how to make one of
those durn little things instead of taking the sane route and ordering
one from TNK! Well, time consuming, but kinda fun in a way too!
OK, getting closer to my question... I've thought that I would
re-cover the other wing after making minor repairs to the bow tip end.
I'm thinking re-cover the whole wing instead of just the repaired end,
partly just to get a good full structural inspection of the thing
naked. (Plane kinda cartwheeled off it I think.) But re-covering
means that all the rivet stems from the wide flange AL rivets (for the
fabric to rib attachment) will be left inside the ribs. You can't
shake them out because of the rib flange rivets still poking into the
rib tubes. Perhaps then I should remove/replace enf flange rivets so
as to be able to shake out all the AL rivet stems? This, in my mind is
enf to make me wish I had used stiching in the first place, especially
when adding the consideration that all those rivet holes for fabric to
rib are also weak spots in the ribs. Yes, I know, the ribs are
certainly strong enf anyway.
I'm curious how others who have recoverd have handled the issue of
rivet stems left behind in the ribs.
Thanks,
Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how many loose rivet stems in your plane? |
They shouldn't really hurt anything, should they ?? I know there's a few
temp rivet ends rattling around inside my doors, etc., but it makes none to
me. Won't hear 'em with the engine running anyway. Besides, the more you
drill out, the more possibilities for loose replacements. I sure played
hell with that wing gap center section. Drilled out the rivets holding the
lexan, and replaced the lexan with aluminum. What a struggle. I wish now
that I'd taken the suggestion on the List, and just sanded the paper/plastic
smooth and painted it. Lazy Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 11:10 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: how many loose rivet stems in your plane?
>
> Hi all,
> I'm making my typical good progress -- good on the geologic time scale
> that is! Am finally finished building a new wing, which was in many
> ways harder than the first time because of re-using some ribs and then
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)tetric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how many loose rivet stems in your plane? |
>I'm curious how others who have recoverd have handled the issue of
>rivet stems left behind in the ribs.
>Thanks,
Ben and all,
Stuff a little bit of fluffy cotton in each end of the 3/16th tubing... no
problem.
I got a last minute offer of a ride to Oshkosh in the morning. How
luckey! We'll be plane camping in the North 40. Be back Sun or Mon. It
has been a couple of years for me. Gotta see what's new... and the new
Kolbs too.
Later,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert F. Bean" <rfbean(at)rochester.infi.net> |
I guess I'm faced with the rib/rivet problem also ( rebuilding one wing,
recovering two) I don't see anything wrong with using short stainless
screws i nstead, like in the Champion/citabria/aeronca series
aircraft.
seems it would make it a little easier for the next guy, and if YOU ever
do a little boo boo (groundloop,etc) easier for you too. negatives
anyone?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Report |
Bill and Group,
It cost $16. per day to get in. The good news is that, once in, all the
gates are open. There is no separation of flight line from the rest.
Maybe in a few years they will remoce the fences.
John Jung
BILLBEAM(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> John,
>
> How much does it cost to get in this year???
>
> Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how many loose rivet stems in your plane? |
Suppose one could use PK screws just like Citrabria, et. al ... rivets are
cheaper in production, but screws are what the big boy's use... and not all
that much more expensive. One should coat the screws with something to
block the stainless screw material from corroding the aluminum being
attached into...
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I'm making my typical good progress -- good on the geologic time scale
> that is! Am finally finished building a new wing, which was in many
> ways harder than the first time because of re-using some ribs and then
> later finding something just slightly not so. For example, in some
> cases I'd find myself needing a new rib nose flange (rib to front spar
> tube), and feeling a little bold, I'd figure out how to make one of
> those durn little things instead of taking the sane route and ordering
> one from TNK! Well, time consuming, but kinda fun in a way too!
>
> OK, getting closer to my question... I've thought that I would
> re-cover the other wing after making minor repairs to the bow tip end.
> I'm thinking re-cover the whole wing instead of just the repaired end,
> partly just to get a good full structural inspection of the thing
> naked. (Plane kinda cartwheeled off it I think.) But re-covering
> means that all the rivet stems from the wide flange AL rivets (for the
> fabric to rib attachment) will be left inside the ribs. You can't
> shake them out because of the rib flange rivets still poking into the
> rib tubes. Perhaps then I should remove/replace enf flange rivets so
> as to be able to shake out all the AL rivet stems? This, in my mind is
> enf to make me wish I had used stiching in the first place, especially
> when adding the consideration that all those rivet holes for fabric to
> rib are also weak spots in the ribs. Yes, I know, the ribs are
> certainly strong enf anyway.
>
> I'm curious how others who have recoverd have handled the issue of
> rivet stems left behind in the ribs.
> Thanks,
> Ben Ransom
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how many loose rivet stems in your plane? |
Hi Ben and Gang,
Good to hear from you Ben! I wasn't quite satisfied with my wings when I
got through covering them in the respect that when I did my first heat
shrink at 250 it bowed the ribs. Considered tearing all the covering off and
starting again but decided against it. Got most of the bow out by pushing
the ribs in place and then burning holes in fabric and putting in rivets.
Anyway I pondered the dilemma you described about the rivet stems being in
the ribs if I had recovered and rattling around when folding/unfolding wings
etc. The Twinstar I had did this and it bothered me. I believe you can get
the stems shook down next to one of the gusset rivets and then pour some
polytak in the closest rivet hole or maybe stuff some cotton in the closest
hole and take a piece of wire and shove the cotton down next to the rivet
stems or a combination of both. I would make some kind of effort to secure
them. I don't think they would cause a problem other than being a annoyance.
I guess I rattled enough.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
. Perhaps then I should remove/replace enf flange rivets so
> as to be able to shake out all the AL rivet stems? > I'm curious how
others who have recoverd have handled the issue of
> rivet stems left behind in the ribs.
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630)
| From: | Pam & Scott Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
Hi All,
I'm helping Kathy Mead (Kent's widow) to sell off his plane and parts. On
Kent's plane, there are parts that are salvageable. He has a 503 and a 447
as far as engines. There's a ballistic chute--has to be repacked. Helmets,
headsets. You can contact Kathy Mead through e-mail at Kenmead(at)aol.com
The most difficult thing is pricing out everything, so not everything has a
price tag on it as of now.
The 503 was on the aircraft and still running as it crashed, so it would
have to be gone over. My guess is that the damage is next to nothing.
--Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how many loose rivet stems in your plane? |
Ben,
I am glad that I can help. I used mostly salvaged ribs on the wing that I
built for my Firestar II. No problem with the rivet ends. You can only
hear them when you fold it. So I don't know what the problem would be.
John Jung
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> snip.....
>
> I'm curious how others who have recoverd have handled the issue of
> rivet stems left behind in the ribs.
> Thanks,
> Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how many loose rivet stems in your plane? |
Ben,
One more thing. I saved one wing by making a new wing tip and doing fabric
repairs. After I finished, I decided that it would not have taken much
longer to recove the whole wing. So don't hesitate to recover.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Has anyone rib stitched their wings? What are the pros and cons, besides
being more labor intensive? I have not drilled my ribs yet and was
wondering if the rib tape would cover the divits that stitching would make
pulling the fabric over the tube ribs.
Also thanks to everyone who gave me Duanes info.
Denny Rowe
western pa
Building Mark 3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing (driving multiple loads from one output) |
>> I am laying out my wiring diagram and have several areas
>>where I will want to splice one wire into several others. I know this can
>>be done with solder seal splices as well as crimped butt splices. What I
>>can't seem to find any information on is how to determine what size crimp
>>barrel to use. For instance, if I want to splice one 14 ga. wire to three
>>22 ga. wires do I use a 14 ga. crimp barrel? Is there some way to convert
>>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can
>>use terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space and
add
>>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
>I don't know about the original poster's application, but in my case it's
>panel and instrument lights. I can run all the grounds to the ground block
>but what's the accepted way of getting 6-8 22ga wires connected at one
>dimmer or switch? Multiple 3-to-1 butt splices? Ring terminals bolted
>together?
Here's the compact, low cost alternative to terminal strips . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/minibus.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rib stitching |
We in our EAA chapter project agonized over this choice for some time. Until
we practised on a mock-up piece of wing both ways. No contest! Go with the
rivets.
BTW, it pays to make a little drill tool setup, which straddles the rib, to
accurately center as well orient the rivet holes.
Herb
In a message dated 07/27/2000 10:01:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rowedl(at)alltel.net writes:
<< Has anyone rib stitched their wings? What are the pros and cons, besides
being more labor intensive? I have not drilled my ribs yet and was
wondering if the rib tape would cover the divits that stitching would make
pulling the fabric over the tube ribs.
Also thanks to everyone who gave me Duanes info.
Denny Rowe
western pa
Building Mark 3
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
Denny,
I have rib laced a lot of aircraft over the years. I like it, it is labor
intensive. If the Kolb has aluminum ribs they can be rib laced, I haven't yet
built my kit since I bought it in an estate sale with no info or drawings.
Depending upon rib design it should be possible to rib lace. It's not
difficult to learn. As for the process: when the wing is covered, and the
final coat of Polybrush is applied, before the PolySpray process is applied,
using a BLUE chalk marking ( snap line) to mark rib lace position, ( this blue
color will not show up in the final coating of Polytone) this ensures a good
looking lace job.
(1) At the root rib and at the last rib before the wing tips, make a tick mark
every 3 " from the leading edge to the trailing edge on the red Polybrush
surface. Assuming the ribs are all the same chord at both ends of the wing,
these tick marks will become the points of reference for the chalk line. Do
this on both the top and bottom of the wing, being sure to always start from
the leading edge to the trailing edge. Since this is a high lift wing, and no
part is impinged upon by the prop wash, even lacing spacing should do.
(2) Once you have made your tic marks at the rib ends, using the ROOT rib as
the base point, ( this is where I use my wife to hold the chalk line catch...)
snap a line (in Blue chalk...) ... at each point where the line runs from root
rib to wing tip and crosses a MAIN rib ( not any false ribs or partial
ribs...) is where you'll lace the rib. This should keep all laces in a good
line and look good when finished.
(3) Once you have identified the points of lacing, apply a layer of rib lace
tape. Polyfiber tape is adhesive backed, thin and will serve to protect the
fabric under it and laying on the rib, from chafing.
(4) Using a long straight lacing needle ( you'll need two needles, one
straight and one curved..) pierce the fabric at each side of the point where
the rib is to be laced, making the holes about 1/4" out on each side of the
rib lace tape applied. Start at the top of the wing, and if the thickness
allows, pierce the bottom hole too. You'll need to do this in the sunlight to
see through the top to the bottom, or, you can also just pierce the top then
proceed to do the bottom next.
(5) now your ready to lace. From the top of the wing down is the process. I
like to start at the leading edge and work my way back to the trailing edge.
Some guy's reverse... I don't think it makes much difference either way.
It is best to use enough string to lace at least four or five points at a
time... the whole length would be quite difficult and cumbersome to do in one
attempt. Remember, each rib will receive maybe 10 to 12 laces ...
(6) Once you finish lacing, apply pinked edged (1") covering tape over the
laces using Polybrush thinned with MEK, use the correct amount of MEK in this
step and any subsequent step, as it can soften the glue in the fabric and mess
us a good job.
Now your ready to apply the PolySpray. I use apply two coats before I wet
sand, then a final coat. This is assuming you applied the Polybrush properly
and filled all the weave. No amount of PolySpray or Polytone will fill pin
holes or other contaminants in the finish stage. All the beauty and glory of
the covering process is done in the proper application of the fabric and the
Polybrush stage! Cleaning the fabric after gluing and ironing is essential.
MEK on a CLEAN lint free rag is the best way. But be very careful and use
precautions against skin exposure and fumes in all steps. I use a Hoby Air
breathing system, and an HVLP when covering. The real quality of workmanship
in the smallest of details shows up in the final product. Properly applied
Polyfiber system should last about 30 years or more if the Aircraft is not
stored outside all year. easy to store a Kolb with folding wings. And from
Mountain flying experience, it is easy to repair (never leave home without a
roll of 200 mile per hour duct tape!) and is impervious to cow dung on the
bottom surfaces ! But watch out, Moose & Elk love to eat the fabric!
Hope this has helped, when I get to that stage, I plan to rib lace the
UltraStar project... I'll make digital photos of the project and build a
website to put the photo's on. If there is an EAA chapter near you, there
should be someone there to teach you how to rib lace (knots, etc.) Polyfiber
has a wonderful manual ( loose-leaf binder type) that sells for about $5.00 I
highly recommend you use it. The folks that are linked to the Kolb site can be
of great help too. If your near Montana, I can teach you how to do it...
In the past I have covered about 25 or so aircraft, both experimental and
certificated (STC'd) using the Polyfiber system, love it and recommend it to
anyone.
Mike Heit A&P
Denny Rowe wrote:
>
> Has anyone rib stitched their wings? What are the pros and cons, besides
> being more labor intensive? I have not drilled my ribs yet and was
> wondering if the rib tape would cover the divits that stitching would make
> pulling the fabric over the tube ribs.
> Also thanks to everyone who gave me Duanes info.
> Denny Rowe
> western pa
> Building Mark 3
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | elevator controls |
I had the same problem. Found a turnbuckle with a smaller head thickness and
used thin shims on the stick side of the horn. No bending or plastic
required.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com [mailto:DAquaNut(at)aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 1:05 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: elevator controls
Group,
Anyone had any problems contol cables rubbing at the stick?
Mine do .
Would it hurt anything to bend the lower end of elevator control horn
at the stick about 1/8 in. I think this would solve my problem. Comments?
Ed Diebel (Building Firefly in Hou.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing (driving multiple loads from one output) |
This is a great idea. If you didn't bother opening it, you may want to take
a look, just for interest value. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
>>multiple wire sizes into the equivalent single wire gauge? I know I can
> >>use terminal strips for some of this, but they take up a lot of space
and
> add
> >>weight. Has anyone out there conquered this problem?
>
> >I don't know about the original poster's application, but in my case it's
> >panel and instrument lights. I can run all the grounds to the ground
block
> >but what's the accepted way of getting 6-8 22ga wires connected at one
> >dimmer or switch? Multiple 3-to-1 butt splices? Ring terminals bolted
> >together?
>
> Here's the compact, low cost alternative to terminal strips . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/minibus.jpg
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rib stitching |
Jim and Dondi sell a little jig for just that. Haven't used it yet, but it
looks good. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HGRAFF(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rib stitching
>
> We in our EAA chapter project agonized over this choice for some time.
Until
> we practised on a mock-up piece of wing both ways. No contest! Go with
the
> rivets.
>
> BTW, it pays to make a little drill tool setup, which straddles the rib,
to
> accurately center as well orient the rivet holes.
>
> Herb
>
> In a message dated 07/27/2000 10:01:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> rowedl(at)alltel.net writes:
>
> << Has anyone rib stitched their wings? What are the pros and cons,
besides
> being more labor intensive? I have not drilled my ribs yet and was
> wondering if the rib tape would cover the divits that stitching would
make
> pulling the fabric over the tube ribs.
> Also thanks to everyone who gave me Duanes info.
> Denny Rowe
> western pa
> Building Mark 3
> >>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 447 vs 68" IVO |
Again, I will part with some info. I cruise usually around 5800 - 6000 RPM
and maintains about 65 to 68 airspeed. Temps are in the 335-350 and 1100
range. I can go to 6200 and really zoom up there - usually reserved for
higher altitudes and keeping up with fergies and challengers. That makes
about 70 - 75 or so. The Kolb as I understand it likes a larger blade and of
course smaller ones need more pitch and this makes torque a problem. I think
that 66" would be just about right for you. I understand from IVO you simply
measure very acurately and cut very acurately and clean off the end of the
blade. No worries mate! I would really think that only 1' of boom clearance
would be a hazzard. If you take heavy turbulance the engine might jump
enough to get really close to the boom. scary. Your call. Had my firestar
for about six years and three engines and love the 447/ivo 66" rocket
combination. Compared to the 377 I started with, wow!!! You cannot believe
the difference in climbout. I can really challenge a firestar II with 503 on
ground to heaven climbout. Hope this helps. If you want to discuss it
further, contact me an email and we will get ma bell involved. Hope I can
help. Remember, small steps and only make one currection at a time. Ted
Cowan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: rib stitching |
Check the archives. I rib stitched mine, both wings takes one day. Stand it
on the leading edge, wife/helper/whoever sits on one side, you sit on the
other. Put on some good music, fix a pot of coffee, and talk about stuff.
Works for me.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Has anyone rib stitched their wings? What are the pros and cons, besides
>being more labor intensive? I have not drilled my ribs yet and was
>wondering if the rib tape would cover the divits that stitching would make
>pulling the fabric over the tube ribs.
> Also thanks to everyone who gave me Duanes info.
>Denny Rowe
>western pa
>Building Mark 3
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rib stitching |
Now here's a man that's rib laced before. Got to start early ( o-dark-thirty) ,
lot's a good dark coffee and the misses there to help me keep myself from
lacing myself to the ribs !( makes the plane hard to fly from that position...)
an occasional doughnut ot two helps a lot in this process... but adds to the
loaded weight of the completed aircraft.
Mike Heit
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> Check the archives. I rib stitched mine, both wings takes one day. Stand it
> on the leading edge, wife/helper/whoever sits on one side, you sit on the
> other. Put on some good music, fix a pot of coffee, and talk about stuff.
> Works for me.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Charles" <charles.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Splicing (driving multiple loads from one |
output)
Here is a link which may help some of you:
http://www.hut.fi/Misc/Electronics/docs/wiring/wire_resistance.html
Hope this helpps.
Todd Thompson
MKIII,Ultratec, Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Charles" <charles.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
Rib stiching takes less time than drilling and maintains a stronger rib,
lays flat and aerodynamically should be better. Beside it looks better and
bring smiles of appreciation when knowing visitors look at your plane.
Women usually make better stichers than men and of your wife/friend is
inclined makes for good quality time with your significant other. I agree
with Mr. Pike - stichings the best and it is easy to do... just ask my
wife. Ha Ha!!
________________________________________________________________________________
I would any and all input about a static port for a MK3. Mine is not
working well , and I'm going to redo.
RH MK3 912
N912RH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator controls |
John, The Factory set up on the firefly has no turnbuckles on the rudder
cables. Only the elevator cables have turnbuckles. The left rudder cable is
about 1/ 8 too high & 1/8 too far towards the lower elevator horn at the
stick. The lower turnbuckle at the stick is where it is rubbing on the left
side. (turnbuckle bolt head) The turnbuckle in use has thin sides on the
head. (approx. 3/64 in.) Still not certain what remedy to use but thanks
for your suggestion & everyone elses too.
Ed (In Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 3-blade V/ 2 blade |
Group. I think im going with the 447 on my firefly.
Question: What is the advantage of three blades. Is there
any advantage to 2 blades other than cost?
Thanks , (Ed In Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
If you go with rib stitching you don't have to worry about the rivet gun slipping
and punching a hold on the fabric.
I hate when that happens
Will Uribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rib stitching |
Here is a picture of the jig I got from Jim & Dondi. It sure makes it easy to dill
the holes. I added the extra long brazing rod
http://members.aol.com/FS2Kolb/178.jpg
Regards,
Will Uribe
Building a FireStar
EL Paso, TX
Working in Hermosillo, Sonora
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
Jim and Dondi sell a little jig for just that. Haven't used it yet, but it
looks good. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HGRAFF(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rib stitching
>
> We in our EAA chapter project agonized over this choice for some time.
Until
> we practised on a mock-up piece of wing both ways. No contest! Go with
the
> rivets.
>
> BTW, it pays to make a little drill tool setup, which straddles the rib,
to
> accurately center as well orient the rivet holes.
>
> Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-blade V/ 2 blade |
Ed,
In your application, 3 blades would be wuieter, two blades would perform
better.
John Jung
DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Group. I think im going with the 447 on my firefly.
>
> Question: What is the advantage of three blades. Is there
> any advantage to 2 blades other than cost?
>
> Thanks , (Ed In Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Noyer <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3-blade V/ 2 blade |
Quieter, more $
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator controls |
On the horizontal tube that the stick pivot bolt passes through, grind .030
off of the left end of the tube, and place a .030 thick washer on the right
side when you assemble. A little grease makes the washer stay put while you
slide the 1/4 in bolt through.G.aman FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: elevator controls |
G. Amen, Thats the best solution I have heard yet . I can see how that
would give some clearance.
Thanks,
Ed (In Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I was fascinated by the descriptions of the "Laser" method of pitching a
prop a while back. As I mentioned at the time, a friend had used a digital
level, with really good success. Much better than with the bubble level.
My own experience with bubble levels has been OK, for the purpose - like
framing a wall, or hanging pictures - but not too precise for our needs.
Trouble is, you gotta buy a digital level at who knows how much money, for a
1 time use, or at least, infrequent use. So, when a couple of you gave
URL's for laser levels, I jumped on the internet......................and
REALLY got sticker shock. We're talking 100's of dollars, folks. So, Adios
laser..............but wait..............someone ( here, I think, bless
them ) mentioned Harbor Freight, so I took a chance and typed in "harbor
freight.com" and got 'em, 1st try. Wound up ordering their Item no. 37431,
Laser Pointer - Hi Output, for $9.99. It came in today, and after they'd
finished with handling, insurance, etc., it still only came to $18.66 at my
door. It's quite the tool - not a toy. This afternoon, in the blasting
Palm Springs sun, I could fairly easily see the dot 50 ft away. Just now,
at twilight, it was easily visible 200 ft. down the street. I can see why
they'd make a good gunsight. It will be simple to make a jig to position it
accurately on the prop blades, and I can't imagine ( here I go sticking my
neck out again ) anything being simpler or more accurate. Going from a
horizontal blade to the ground will give about a 5 ft ( ?? ) line, which
would be great. For the fanatics amongst us, ( Me ?? ) how about aiming off
a vertical blade at the side of a building " x " number of feet away. At
50' you would be totally accurate to a fraction of a degree.
Harrrrr...................at a 1/4 mile..............Awright, Awright, I
know I'm being silly, but it's fun. Just don't look at the thing when you
press the button. It is REALLY bright ! ! ! Precision Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
I have had good luck with both the pitot and static ports being about 5"
below the nose fairing and even with the front end of it. Seems to be clean
air.
I use two 1/4" steel brake lines for the tubes. (cheap, holds the bend
well, brazes)
One just has an open end facing into the oncoming air, the other has the
end welded shut, and a 1/16" hole drilled in through one side and out the
other for the static source.
There is a picture at
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg7.htm
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I would any and all input about a static port for a MK3. Mine is not
>working well , and I'm going to redo.
>
>RH MK3 912
>
>N912RH
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor Pitch |
Thanks for the thought, Denny. Just minutes ago, I got off the phone from a
call to my old friend, the radio antenna precisioneer, in Port Angeles, WA.
He came up with the idea of taping small, identical mirrors to the prop
blades, and mounting the laser solid on a bench or some such, then bounce
the beam off the mirrors to a target. Sounds good to me. Simple, accurate,
and Larry proof. I'm not going to fool with the thing tonight, but
tomorrow, I'll do your test, and get back to you about concentricity. Be
interesting anyway. One other thing - how long are these little lasers
designed to stay on per use ?? It's designed as a pointer, so is it meant
for quick blinks, or bursts of a few seconds at a time, or can you just tape
the button down, and let 'er rip ?? Laser Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Propellor Pitch
>
> Lar,
> You might want to spin your laser pointer in a chuck of a drill with the
> drill fixed in a vise and pointed at a distant wall. You will need to find
a
> way to hold the push button on while you do this.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
Hello Listers:
Please go to my Home Page and read the announcement. I am closing AAMR/AirCore/
Reasons for this move are on this page. I am leaving the How To Pages up for
your info finding needs.
So it's been fun and work.
Please support Electric Bob...He's a great guy and a valuable asset. Send him
your orders and maybe he can keep his doors open.
Best regards,
John Caldwell @ AAMR/Ai
rCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)AOL.COM.Fri, |
(EMWAC SMTPRS 0.83) with SMTP id" <B0004527366@mail-2.lbay.net>;
Thu,
27 Jul 2000 22:59:38.-0700(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | RV-List: (no subject) |
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
--> RV-List message posted by: AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com
Hello Listers:
Please go to my Home Page and read the announcement. I am closing AAMR/AirCore/
Reasons for this move are on this page. I am leaving the How To Pages up for
your info finding needs.
So it's been fun and work.
Please support Electric Bob...He's a great guy and a valuable asset. Send him
your orders and maybe he can keep his doors open.
Best regards,
John Caldwell @ AAMR/Ai
rCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
| Subject: | horizontal stabilizers |
I recently got my mk3 trimed up to fly solo hands off. And have
been enjoying it on these fine calm summer evenings.I even reached the
point where I signed the logbooks with the proper phrase that makes it
legal for me to carry passengers.
Now, I need more rear triming. Solo , in level flight, the elevator
is slightly below level with the horizontal stab. With my 190 lb
passengers I have full up trim and a firm pull back on the stick to keep
level
Upon landing,I use full aft stick and a good dose of throttle to
get a flare. If the motor didn't respond it would be ugly, but the 582
has never missed a beat, don't get me wrong.
My question. Should I reposition the horizontal stab down some,
and how much?, or simply raise the flaps and ailerons a little? Anyone
been here before?
My passengers love this plane.Keep it coming. Anyone gets to Maine
look me up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizers |
Dell,
It sounds like your at ( or possibly beyond) the aft extreme CG limit when
loaded. I would redo very carefully the CG check. If you want to send me the
date, I can do a balance report for you. If your in this condition, and
stall at altitude, you'll possibly never be able to recover from the stall
and crash tail first. You can send me the data, as accurate as possible to
do the report...no charge of course. The fact that your having to use power
to flare is the give away that not all is correct in the CG department. At
190 Lbs ( real weight) as opposed to the FAA 170 ( I wish) weight shows this
as a CG problem too.
Mike Heit A&P
If you choose to respond, send all the CG data using real ( as accurate) a
figure for weight as you can. Measure moment arms accurately, which I am
certain you did ? I'll be out of town till Sunday, so, I ask you this, if
this is a CG problem, does adding weight forward help? If your rigging is
off ??? then the problem is different...
Dell Vinal wrote:
>
> I recently got my mk3 trimed up to fly solo hands off. And have
> been enjoying it on these fine calm summer evenings.I even reached the
> point where I signed the logbooks with the proper phrase that makes it
> legal for me to carry passengers.
> Now, I need more rear triming. Solo , in level flight, the elevator
> is slightly below level with the horizontal stab. With my 190 lb
> passengers I have full up trim and a firm pull back on the stick to keep
> level
> Upon landing,I use full aft stick and a good dose of throttle to
> get a flare. If the motor didn't respond it would be ugly, but the 582
> has never missed a beat, don't get me wrong.
> My question. Should I reposition the horizontal stab down some,
> and how much?, or simply raise the flaps and ailerons a little? Anyone
> been here before?
> My passengers love this plane.Keep it coming. Anyone gets to Maine
> look me up.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: horizontal stabilizers |
We need a bit more information:
With the weight and balance correct, (and I'm assuming that your is, if
not, all bets are off)
when you are landing and need full aft stick and a good dose of throttle,
what is the load?
Is it at gross weight and full flaps, or 15 degrees of flaps, or no flaps?
Solo?
If it is at no flaps, something is major wrong.
If it is at full flaps, big passenger, it is not too unusual, but could
probably stand some improvement...
My MKIII with the flaps and ailerons set to lay parallel with the bottom of
the wing while in level cruise, solo, will stabilize in a nose up attitude
at about 35 MPH, with the trim lever at full forward.
With the flaps drooped a bit, and no change to the ailerons, the speed will
stabilize hands off according to the throttle setting, with the trim lever
at full forward. My weight about 195.
With a 190 pound passenger, and the flaps parallel to the bottom of the
wing, it takes almost full aft trim to get the stick pressure to the hands
off point. With the flaps reflexed up a bit, it takes 1/2 trim to get to
hands off.
When landing with 40 degrees of flap and a passenger over 220 pounds,
control authority of the elevator to raise the nose becomes limited as you
describe, on my airplane. At that point, I have to carry extra speed on
final, or give it a shot of power. Even then, it is soggy. (Interesting
that the MKIII Xtra has a bigger stab)
For this reason, I have redone my flap linkage to give maximum flap
deflection at 30 degrees instead of 40.
This improves elevator authority in the flare with big passengers & full flaps.
If that is also your situation, here's how it's remedied:
take off the flap handle, drill a new hole for the actuating linkage 1/2"
closer to the pivot bolt, reassemble and readjust.
You are reducing your linkage throw, it also makes the handle easier to
pull down.
Now you will have about 10-12 degrees of flap partial, and about 30 degrees
max.
It will float a tiny bit more at touchdown with full flaps, but it will
also have more elevator authority in the flare.
If you don't like it, put it back like it was, you are only out a couple
hours fiddling time.
I modified the flap handle mechanism so that I have three "up" positions
for solo and dual.
Gives drooped, flat, and reflexed, really makes a huge difference in the
amount of trim needed at cruise.
There is a picture at
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg3.htm
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> I recently got my mk3 trimed up to fly solo hands off. And have
>been enjoying it on these fine calm summer evenings.I even reached the
>point where I signed the logbooks with the proper phrase that makes it
>legal for me to carry passengers.
> Now, I need more rear triming. Solo , in level flight, the elevator
>is slightly below level with the horizontal stab. With my 190 lb
>passengers I have full up trim and a firm pull back on the stick to keep
>level
> Upon landing,I use full aft stick and a good dose of throttle to
>get a flare. If the motor didn't respond it would be ugly, but the 582
>has never missed a beat, don't get me wrong.
> My question. Should I reposition the horizontal stab down some,
>and how much?, or simply raise the flaps and ailerons a little? Anyone
>been here before?
> My passengers love this plane.Keep it coming. Anyone gets to Maine
>look me up.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Charles" <charles.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
Ultratec is the 80 hp, new twin, fuel injected, counterbalanced, water
cooled, 8 valve, computerized, twin ignition, dry sump wonder from England.
Mounts in same holes that my 582 had. Pop off the 582 and pop on the
Ultratec. Burns 2.5 gal. per hours at cruise - 89 octane. It even comes
with a complete wiring harness and a gear reduction drive and stainless
steel exhaust system. $7900.00 intro price. You can use their gauges or
add your own. If you add their integrated instrumentation package you get a
24 month warranty. Engine is being shown and orders taken at OSHKOSH now.
Engine is running on a KOLb MKIII in Europe and I am installing mine as we
speak. Interesting item: the engine is based on standard FORD parts.
ULtratec provides the Ford part numbers so I can go to NAPA for most of the
parts needed for a rebuild. ALthough the specs show the engine at 160 lbs.
it's actually 137.
check it out:
http://www.motavia.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ahearn" <dahearn(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Fin |
Listers,
Why is there no cowling around the powerplants of Kolbs, and for that matter
most light pusher configurations? Is this a cooling thing?
It would seem one could clean up the air and reduce drag quite a bit.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Ahearn" <dahearn(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Kobra vs. MKIIIXtra |
Those who've seen (or maybe even flow) both can you offer some insight on
the differences in performance.
Kobra looks like a more nimble mount.
Does it have rudder pedals in the back?
Looked like a pod type instrument panel in the lite speed pictures?
Is the flap handle configured like the Slingshot?
Any OSH pics yet :)
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
My mk3 is built to plans with a 582 and 10 gals gas. Battery behind
the pass seat. How could the weight and bal be off? The no's all came
out ok. I'm going to raise the flaps and ailerons a little at a time and
see if that helps.
The plane is nose heavy on the controls, not tail heavy.
I go 200 lbs with helmet and clothes. My passengers have weighed
between 150 and 190+.
The horizontal stab front edges are about level with the top of the
tube.
Thanks for the replies.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kobra vs. MKIIIXtra |
Dan Ahearn wrote:
>
> Does it have rudder pedals in the back?
Sort of. They are actually along side of the front pilot.
> Looked like a pod type instrument panel in the lite speed pictures?
The prototype with the wide pod had a panel beyween the pilots legs. They
have two different prototypes of the Kolbra. One uses the same pod as the
Slingshot, and the other has a new wider pod.
> Is the flap handle configured like the Slingshot?
I think so. It is just to the right of the front stick and has many notches.
> Any OSH pics yet :)
I have pictures of the flap mechanism, because I have been considering
adding flaps to my Firestar II. I didn't think to take pictures of the whole
plane for you guys until after I got home. I'll get some pictures for the
group when I go back.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor Pitch |
>
> Just minutes ago, I got off the phone from a
>call to my old friend, the radio antenna precisioneer, in Port Angeles, WA.
>He came up with the idea of taping small, identical mirrors to the prop
>blades, and mounting the laser solid on a bench or some such, then bounce
>the beam off the mirrors to a target. Sounds good to me.
Very good Larry-but we use the "Blum Laser System" to set all of our props.
It is similar to a high-precision photoelectric barrier type laser with an
output signal that can be evaluated by any CNC or PLC. As our props are
passed through the stationary laser beam, the electronics react to the
shading of the beam by each single cutting edge of the prop blade. After
recognizing the longest (maximum) edge of the blade, an output signal is
issued for "static," "dynamic," "laser OK" (operating condition), plus an
analogue value.
The system can monitor angles within our excepted values, utilizing a
visible red light laser with a wave length of 670 nanometers and output
capacity of <1 mW, which falls within the laser Class 2 VDE 0837 and, thus,
requires no specific protective measures. Optical components are protected
from coolant and chips by a pneumatically operated shutter and air barrier.
Results are repeatably better than 1 micron. Installed in a CNC machining
center, precision of a few microns in measuring and prop pitch setting is
common.
KISS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Fin |
I agree. If I can be industrious enough this winter, I will remedy that
lack on my MKIII.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Listers,
>
>Why is there no cowling around the powerplants of Kolbs, and for that matter
>most light pusher configurations? Is this a cooling thing?
>
>It would seem one could clean up the air and reduce drag quite a bit.
>
>Dan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Herren" <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor Pitch |
I think you are going to get basted again. There are pointers at 1/3 that
price I do believe. Don't you have a Wally World? (Wal-Mart) Don't worry
about it you have a good tool - put it to work! Bill
>From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "Kolb"
>Subject: Kolb-List: Propellor Pitch
>Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 20:24:47 -0700
>
>
>I was fascinated by the descriptions of the "Laser" method of pitching a
>prop a while back. As I mentioned at the time, a friend had used a digital
>level, with really good success. Much better than with the bubble level.
>My own experience with bubble levels has been OK, for the purpose - like
>framing a wall, or hanging pictures - but not too precise for our needs.
>Trouble is, you gotta buy a digital level at who knows how much money, for
>a
>1 time use, or at least, infrequent use. So, when a couple of you gave
>URL's for laser levels, I jumped on the internet......................and
>REALLY got sticker shock. We're talking 100's of dollars, folks. So,
>Adios
>laser..............but wait..............someone ( here, I think, bless
>them ) mentioned Harbor Freight, so I took a chance and typed in "harbor
>freight.com" and got 'em, 1st try. Wound up ordering their Item no. 37431,
>Laser Pointer - Hi Output, for $9.99. It came in today, and after they'd
>finished with handling, insurance, etc., it still only came to $18.66 at my
>door. It's quite the tool - not a toy. This afternoon, in the blasting
>Palm Springs sun, I could fairly easily see the dot 50 ft away. Just now,
>at twilight, it was easily visible 200 ft. down the street. I can see why
>they'd make a good gunsight. It will be simple to make a jig to position
>it
>accurately on the prop blades, and I can't imagine ( here I go sticking my
>neck out again ) anything being simpler or more accurate. Going from a
>horizontal blade to the ground will give about a 5 ft ( ?? ) line, which
>would be great. For the fanatics amongst us, ( Me ?? ) how about aiming
>off
>a vertical blade at the side of a building " x " number of feet away. At
>50' you would be totally accurate to a fraction of a degree.
>Harrrrr...................at a 1/4 mile..............Awright, Awright, I
>know I'm being silly, but it's fun. Just don't look at the thing when you
>press the button. It is REALLY bright ! ! ! Precision Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor Pitch |
K.........K..........K...........Kiss my what ?? Smart-ass ! ! ! And here
I was so proud of myself. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 10:18 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Propellor Pitch
>
> >
> > Just minutes ago, I got off the phone from a
> >call to my old friend, the radio antenna precisioneer, in Port Angeles,
WA.
> >He came up with the idea of taping small, identical mirrors to the prop
> >blades, and mounting the laser solid on a bench or some such, then bounce
> >the beam off the mirrors to a target. Sounds good to me.
>
> Very good Larry-but we use the "Blum Laser System" to set all of our
props.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Sometimes the simple things get to ya. In the July, 2000 Experimenter, page
33, there are some really great pics of a Subaru engine on a GyroCopter.
Looks like they did a really nice, sanitary job - with one exception. And
it bothers me. It's covered with "White" ty-raps. Which is fine for indoor
electrical or somesuch. In my experience, the white ones don't last but a
few weeks in the sun, and turn as brittle as glass, then break off. Ty-raps
are great, and very handy, but for outdoor use, use the "Black" ones. They
last far, far longer. Food for thought. Chomp on me if you want, but this
time I'm sticking to my guns. Electrical Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cjcullen" <cjcullen(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine cowling |
From: "Dan Ahearn" <dahearn(at)home.com>
>
> Why is there no cowling around the powerplants of Kolbs, and for that
matter
> most light pusher configurations? Is this a cooling thing?
>
In Experimenter May 2000 there is an article about the Flightstar IISC.
The IISC is powered by a Rotax 503.
Flightstar has a thingamajig they call the Supercowl they put
around the cylinder heads of the Rotax so it's not exactly a full cowling.
They say it reduces engine operating temperatures 35-50 degrees.
Intuitively, it seems like a cowling couldn't hurt.
On the other hand, I also wonder how much it would help to
reduce the total drag of the aircraft.
The Mk III we have is so draggy around the cage that
I'm not sure an engine cowling alone would improve performance.
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
I think you're on to something. Some of the white ty-wraps I've used in the
past have lasted, and others not. And what is the difference between the
white and black ones, other than color. Are they made of different stuff?
Anybody?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Sometimes the simple things get to ya. In the July, 2000 Experimenter, page
>33, there are some really great pics of a Subaru engine on a GyroCopter.
>Looks like they did a really nice, sanitary job - with one exception. And
>it bothers me. It's covered with "White" ty-raps. Which is fine for indoor
>electrical or somesuch. In my experience, the white ones don't last but a
>few weeks in the sun, and turn as brittle as glass, then break off. Ty-raps
>are great, and very handy, but for outdoor use, use the "Black" ones. They
>last far, far longer. Food for thought. Chomp on me if you want, but this
>time I'm sticking to my guns. Electrical Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine cowling |
The FlightStar is a "tractor" configuration - engine up front which means
the engine is installed in the reveresed direction of a pusher. The air
intake on Rotax pushers faces into the airstream generated by the forward
motion of the aircraft. This helps, if anything, move a little more air
through the engine's cooling system.
The opposite is true on the Flight Star, the Rotax fan is on the "leeward"
side of the airstream and trying to pull air from the low pressure area
behind the engine. This decreases the airflow through the engine.
In short, the stock fan cooling system on aircooled Rotax engines does
not
work as well as it should on tractor installations (with exposed engines).
FlightStar, Hurricane and others discovered this early on and developed
"free air" (no fan) engine cowlings that helped utilize the air from the
"big fan" and the prevailing airstream.
When they say that they drop the temps 50 degrees, they probably are making
a comparison to a standard fan cooled Rotax trying to operate as a tractor -
and probably running too hot already. Or they may be making a comparison to
a free air Rotax with no cooling shroud at all - which does run to hot.
On the other subject you raised: Some faster pushers have developed
complete engine cowlings, but these are complicated, heavy and still not
very streamlined and since they are necessarily larger than the engines they
enclose, and are still are pretty draggy. But the biggest negative of such
full enclosures is lack of engine access. Now you really have to work to
get to your engine and its all up on top the wing and hard to reach.
Hope this helps.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of cjcullen
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 7:39 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: engine cowling
From: "Dan Ahearn" <dahearn(at)home.com>
>
> Why is there no cowling around the powerplants of Kolbs, and for that
matter
> most light pusher configurations? Is this a cooling thing?
>
In Experimenter May 2000 there is an article about the Flightstar IISC.
The IISC is powered by a Rotax 503.
Flightstar has a thingamajig they call the Supercowl they put
around the cylinder heads of the Rotax so it's not exactly a full cowling.
They say it reduces engine operating temperatures 35-50 degrees.
Intuitively, it seems like a cowling couldn't hurt.
On the other hand, I also wonder how much it would help to
reduce the total drag of the aircraft.
The Mk III we have is so draggy around the cage that
I'm not sure an engine cowling alone would improve performance.
chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyColt45(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engine cowling |
Hey Dennis,
Thanks for that explanation. Been one of my long time questions.
Jim Cote
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | tail wheel flutter |
the last two flights i have noticed some flutter in the tail
wheel on roleout. the first time i could not determine what
it was. but last night was able to pinpoint it. has
anyone elce had that problem and what did you do to solve
it?
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
>I think you're on to something. Some of the white ty-wraps I've used in the
>past have lasted, and others not. And what is the difference between the
>white and black ones, other than color. Are they made of different stuff?
>Anybody?
The white guys are subject to ultra-violet degredation . . .
they also don't take kindly to hyro-carbon and ozone exposure
both of which are found in fair quantity under the cowl.
Ty-wraps treated for better resistance to environmental
stresses are always colored . . . most of the ones I've seen
are either dark green or black. However, it's possible to make
a ty-wrap from funky plastic of ANY color. When you buy them
new in original manufacturer's packaging, it will state on the
lable whether or not the critter is resistant to UV and/or
chemical attack.
My personal preference under the cowl is MS21919DGxx clamps
and/or Dacron flat-lace (string) . . . I've seen both of these
products work well for decades under the cowl.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine cowling |
Hi folks,
In the speed ranges that Kolbs fly, cowlings won't help much.
Flightstars, Phantoms, and other tractor configured ULs use Free-Air scoops
or cowlings to catch the prop blast and prevailing wind to cool the engine,
so the fan can be removed and a little more power gets to the prop plus you
save a couple pounds by removing the fan hardware.
These free-air coulings actually ad a little drag to the airframe. {refere
to my opening statement}
My thoughts on adding a cowling to the mark 3 or other slow pushers is WHY
WOULD YOU WANT TO ADD SOMTHING ELSE THAT COULD COME LOOSE AND BLOW THROUGH
THE PROP?
-----Original Message-----
From: cjcullen <cjcullen(at)mediaone.net>
Date: Saturday, July 29, 2000 7:49 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: engine cowling
>
>
>From: "Dan Ahearn" <dahearn(at)home.com>
>>
>> Why is there no cowling around the powerplants of Kolbs, and for that
>matter
>> most light pusher configurations? Is this a cooling thing?
>>
>In Experimenter May 2000 there is an article about the Flightstar IISC.
>The IISC is powered by a Rotax 503.
>Flightstar has a thingamajig they call the Supercowl they put
>around the cylinder heads of the Rotax so it's not exactly a full cowling.
>They say it reduces engine operating temperatures 35-50 degrees.
>
>Intuitively, it seems like a cowling couldn't hurt.
>On the other hand, I also wonder how much it would help to
>reduce the total drag of the aircraft.
>The Mk III we have is so draggy around the cage that
>I'm not sure an engine cowling alone would improve performance.
>
>chuck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clive Hatcher" <clive_hatcher(at)lineone.net> |
| Subject: | tail wheel flutter |
Boyd and All,
Yes, I had the problem that you describe. I tried different spring
types and tensions but no significant change, then I replaced the
wheel and the problem was cured. My old wheel was worn down almost to
the plastic rim, I can only assume that the flutter is critical to
either the diameter, or more likely the mass of the wheel. My local
airfield has a 1.25 mile long concrete runway so I wear out tailwheels
quickly - especially if I have to backtrack the whole length.
Clive. Mk III / 582
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of b young
> Sent: 29 July 2000 16:24
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: tail wheel flutter
>
>
> the last two flights i have noticed some flutter in the tail
> wheel on roleout. the first time i could not determine what
> it was. but last night was able to pinpoint it. has
> anyone elce had that problem and what did you do to solve
> it?
>
> boyd
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Kennedy <ken.kennedy(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | TwinStar Landing Gear and Landing Technique |
I am an oldie in ultralights, but a newbie to Kolb. I have been checking
out an old customer who has purchased a used 503 TwinStar.
Both of us are having trouble greasing it on (tarmac doesn't help the
matter). We have been reducing throttle to idle on short final. What do the
experienced Kolbers do? Carry a little power 'til on the ground?
On taxiing in the other night, we were definitely listing to the right.
Turns out the right gear leg has bent. I searched the archives and got the
impression that this is not uncommon. I understand that people have just
straightened them as a short, or even long term fix. This seems OK to me,
as I doubt the solid leg would break off in a hard arrival, even if
weakened.
Unlike some others from the archives, we had no problem removing the leg.
However we were unable to straighten it. Any tips out there? Would a bit of
heat help without wrecking the temper? How much does a new leg cost? Are
there tricks to drilling out a new leg to fit the LG tube in the cage?
In the archives, someone advocated using a new leg, but not cutting it off,
so as to make the gear longer and allow full stall landings. Comments?
Ken Kennedy
Part time Kolber
Full time Quicksilver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | Re: TwinStar Landing Gear and Landing Technique |
Hi Ken (old-time Kolbers can ignore this post about landing the Kolb),
The landing discussion has gone on many times over on this list, but I
can give you a few tips. I was trained in a Quicksilver and now have
flown the Kolb for many years. All ultralights can make smooth landings
and it's strictly up to the pilot and his or her skill to make it that
way. Most ultralights will lose airspeed quickly as power is brought
back, so the stick goes forward to drop the nose. If in smooth air, the
plane will almost land itself with a 40mph approach speed. Once in ground
effect, the plane will level itself out some without moving the stick. To
grease it in, just a little more back stick is required, 'at the proper
moment'. Herein lies the problem with most new Kolbers. Flare too soon
and it will stall, then drop to the ground. Flare too late and it will
hit on the mains, the tail drops raising the AOA, followed by a stall and
a few bounces down the runway. So, what's the secret? Here's what I do:
maintain about 3000-3500 rpm all the way down and cut it just prior to
touchdown. Move the stick about 2" back to flare at the proper moment.
The timing of that flare is the secret and this requires practice. Once
down and rolling, come all the way back on the stick to keep the tail
planted. Here again the timing factor is crucial. If the stick comes back
too early, before losing flying speed, it will want to fly. Too late, and
in a crosswind, the plane is off the runway weathervaning into the wind.
The reason I carry the extra power is because the 2-cycle engine tends to
load up in a long decent at idle and should the power be necessary to
abort and make a go-around, it will be there instead of hesitating and
risk the possibility of quitting on you. Under windy conditions I carry
the power through touchdown to keep in control. In cold winter flying
conditions, the higher rpms will keep the engine warm, not to thermal
shock it.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, 13 years
writes:
>
>
> I am an oldie in ultralights, but a newbie to Kolb. I have been
> checking
> out an old customer who has purchased a used 503 TwinStar.
>
> Both of us are having trouble greasing it on (tarmac doesn't help
> the
> matter). We have been reducing throttle to idle on short final. What
> do the
> experienced Kolbers do? Carry a little power 'til on the ground?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
>
>My name is Darrell Collins from Bailey, Co. I just bought a late 80's or
>early 90 kolb twinstar. I need a set of construction plans and owner's
>manuel. Can anyone help me? Thanks.
I may be able to scan a few pages of the manual or small sections of the
plans if you could tell me what you are hunting for.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TwinStar Landing Gear and Landing Technique |
>
>
>Both of us are having trouble greasing it on (tarmac doesn't help the
>matter). We have been reducing throttle to idle on short final. What do the
>experienced Kolbers do? Carry a little power 'til on the ground?
I usualy carry a bit of power untill I am over the strip about 10 ft. Keep
the speed up and then let it settle when it wants to. Unless you are in a
tight spot don't worry about full stall or short landings
>However we were unable to straighten it. Any tips out there? Would a bit of
>heat help without wrecking the temper?
I have been able to straighten them in a steel frame with a 5 ton jack.
Perhaps you could make such a frame using your car on top and the leg
blocked up underneath. Sounds like a hick way but it may just work. The
temper may come back if you let it sit a few days.
>In the archives, someone advocated using a new leg, but not cutting it off,
>so as to make the gear longer and allow full stall landings. Comments?
Huh??????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Kennedy <ken.kennedy(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: TwinStar Landing Gear and Landing Technique |
Woody wrote:
>
> I have been able to straighten them in a steel frame with a 5 ton jack.
> Perhaps you could make such a frame using your car on top and the leg
> blocked up underneath. Sounds like a hick way but it may just work. The
> temper may come back if you let it sit a few days.
We tried a 2 ton jack in a frame. I guess we're off to a machine shop.
Thanx for the advice.
>
> >In the archives, someone advocated using a new leg, but not cutting it off,
> >so as to make the gear longer and allow full stall landings. Comments?
>
> Huh??????
I relooked at the archive postings and now realize that the posters were
talking about TwinStar legs being supplied as replacements for an Original
FireStar. Sorry about that. All those Kolbs look the same to me.
kk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi Darrell,
I have copies of blueprints for the Twinstar and MkII if that
helps. Other listers were kind enough to share them. How far is Bailey from
Aspen? I'll be there briefly Aug. 10. Let me know if you would like a
copy.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: (no subject)
>
> >
> >My name is Darrell Collins from Bailey, Co. I just bought a late 80's or
> >early 90 kolb twinstar. I need a set of construction plans and owner's
> >manuel. Can anyone help me? Thanks.
>
>
> I may be able to scan a few pages of the manual or small sections of
the
> plans if you could tell me what you are hunting for.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Ties - Good Source for Material |
The following is a list of recommended sources (with the exception of one)
for various material you will need during building and maintaining a UL.
You should find majority of the materials you need available through these
sources. They all have met the test of time and have proven themselves. I
hope you all find this useful. The only ones I know lacking are Kolb
source for Stits covering material, source for boom tube material, the
rivets Kolbs use, aluminum sheet metal, and chrome moly tubing, and seat
belts. I've had these but changing machines 3 times over last few years I
lost track of these locations.
jerryb
If you all need Ty-Wraps (Black UV resistant) or natural nylon (Not UV
resistant-for inside use) at a good price check out Altex Electronics.
Their URL is http://www.altex.com/
If you need nylon snap in insulating bushings see Mouser Electronics. Good
service and prices.
URL is http://www.mouser.com/catalog/cat_602/350.pdf
Strobes for UL's -
Aircraft Hardware, rivets, covering supplies - Great Atlantic Aircraft
Company, good service and prompt turn around - orders have been filled
accurately in a timely manner.
URL is http://www.great-atlantic1.com/
UL misc. type parts, tires & tubes, Rotax parts, Lockwood Aviation Supply.
URL is http://www.lockwood-aviation.com/
UL type materials - Leading Edge Air Foils
URL is http://www.leadingedge-airfoils.com/
UL type materials - CPS (California Power Systems)
Their catalog is an excellent reference source for Rotax maintenance
information and well worth the $6-7 they ask for it - refundable with $50
order. We have experience slower turn around than some places but they
have a excellent variety of goods.
URL is http://www.800-airwolf.com/pressrelease.htm
Titanium Ti-Downs - Airtime Mfg.
Made from TITANIUM (6AL-4V alloy, the toughest available & light weight)
http://airtimemfg.com/
Gary VanRemortel's RV Builders' Yeller Pages
Good source directory for many aircraft oriented parts - like full swivel
tail wheels and titanium (strong light weight) tie down stakes
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm
UL and Experimental Aircraft Supplies - AIRCRAFT SPRUCE AND SPECIALTY (ACS)
Not my favorite vendor due to problems I've have with multiple orders but
they are a source for some unique materials.
http://www.aircraft-spruce.com
Not recommended is Airstar Discount Sales
A friend has been dissatisfied with the probes of the temperature
instruments they sell. Myself I have experienced a attitude of little care
about the customer.
http://www.800-airstar.com/
Engine Electronic Instrumentation System & sells BRS systems - offers
discounted packages for BRS and EIS - Grand Rapids Technologies
Manufactures a great little box to monitor your Rotax - have two of them
and very happy with them, there great. Replaces Tach, dual CHT, dual EGT,
hour meter.
http://www.hometown.aol.com/enginfosys
UL Strobes - KUNTZLEMAN ELECTRONICS, Inc.
Good strobes and good company.
http://www.kestrobes.com/
Instruments, ABS instrument panel material - wrinkle finish good stuff -
good company to deal with, have purchased a lot of instruments from them
with no failures.
SKYSports
http://www.airstuff.com/
Good quality wheel bearings for Kolb steel wheels - P/N 499502H
These are a little different - they have something like a snap ring around
one side of them which acts like the retainer ring on the ones being
replaced - good bearing will help reduce random brake grabbing - cost
should be less than $5 each or $20 for two wheels. Source - most any
bearing sales.
End of List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
I am getting ready to build a Firefly ultralite. Being new to the ultralite
group, what do most people do if regards to liability insurance? Where is
the best place to shop for insurance?
Ron Payne
Golbertsville, Ky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Ties - Good Source for Material |
Jerry,
Nice idea, and good work. Thanks.
I'll add our covering supply and support:
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
Anyone else want to help finish Jerrys list?
John Jung
jerryb wrote:
>
> The following is a list of recommended sources (with the exception of one)
> for various material you will need during building and maintaining a UL.
> You should find majority of the materials you need available through these
> sources. They all have met the test of time and have proven themselves. I
> hope you all find this useful. The only ones I know lacking are Kolb
> source for Stits covering material, source for boom tube material, the
> rivets Kolbs use, aluminum sheet metal, and chrome moly tubing, and seat
> belts. I've had these but changing machines 3 times over last few years I
> lost track of these locations.
>
> jerryb
snip....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Ron,
That I know of, there is only one company insuring ultralights and it is
Avemco.
John Jung
Ron or Mary Payne wrote:
>
> I am getting ready to build a Firefly ultralite. Being new to the ultralite
> group, what do most people do if regards to liability insurance? Where is
> the best place to shop for insurance?
>
> Ron Payne
>
> Golbertsville, Ky
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Use of archive search |
Group,
It occurs to me that many on the list may not be aware how easy it is to
search the archives.
Here is a short "how to":
1) Click on the Search engine line a the bottom of each message.
= Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
2) Change the default "RV List" to "Kolb"
3) Type in what you want to search on and click the "Begin Search"
button.
4) A list of messages will appear. Each time you click on one, a new
window will open so that you can read it. Close the window to be able to
select the next message.
That's all there is to it!
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Kennedy <ken.kennedy(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | New Kolb Models and GT-500 Comparisons |
This may be old news to the Kolbers on the list. If so, I apologize for
cluttering your bandwidth. If not, or if there are other newbie Kolb
enthusiasts, here are two excerpts from the controversial Jim Campbell's
daily aviation news digest, aero-news.net.
For myself, I like the tandem configuration of the Kolbra. My GT-500 is a
tandem, and for me, this is the preferred way to go. Outstanding view for
the front seater, roomier cockpit, less drag, less pusher prop
inefficiency, and the CofG doesn't change when you add the second person.
Disadvantages are less interaction with passenger, poor backseat view and
instructional issues.
My initial impressions of the TwinStar compared to my GT are as follows.
Side-by-seating (above), flies with excellent stability (like the GT,
unlike the squirrelly ChallengerII), lighter weight (good), much less
expensive (good), less rugged (e.g., Landing Gear!!!!), climbs OK with 503
(see lighter weight), cruises slower (probably side-by-side drag), tougher
to land. All in all, a nice combination of the compromises inherent in all
aircraft designs.
Killer Kolbra!!
A NEW KOLB DESIGN! The Kolbra is a high-wing, conventional geared, two seat
tandem scooter from the folks at New Kolb Aircraft. It can handle the Rotax
582, or the 80 HP Four-stroke Jabiru (a bitchin' little engine). Buildable
as an ultralight trainer (called the Kolbra) or an experimental bird (as
the KING Kolbra), the Kolbra series sport quick-fold wings and an optional
quick-build kit for those who want to do more flying and less building.
For the WHOLE story, http://www.aero-news.net
Sleek New Lines for Kolb Mk III
WOW... these NEW Kolb guys are serious. A pretty aggressive redesign of the
venerable Kolb Mk III has resulted in a MUCH sharper look for this docile
two seat ultralight trainer. The new bird boasts a boost in cruise speed of
10-15 mph which means some 77 mph with the 65 HP Rotax 582 and 90 mph with
a Rotax 912. Other mods include an 18" longer fuselage, more baggage space,
and more leg room. The bird has mounted the panel closer to the pilot and
the new windscreen has really improved visibility. For the WHOLE story,
http://www.aero-news.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | AMR has been sold! |
Hello listers
AAMR has been sold and will reopen shortly as Terminal Town.
The new URL will be http://terminaltown.com
If you care to be notified of opening please send your E mail address to
terminaltown(at)aol.com
Best regards.
John Caldwell @ AAMR/Ai
rCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AAMRELECTR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | AMR has been sold! |
Hello listers
AAMR has been sold and will reopen shortly as Terminal Town.
The new URL will be http://terminaltown.com
If you care to be notified of opening please send your E mail address to
terminaltown(at)aol.com
Best regards.
John Caldwell @ AAMR/Ai
rCore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | landing on asphalt |
<<<>>>
with my mark III i would run about 3200 rpm till the wheels
touch the ground then cut power. the kolbs loose their
airspeed rather quickly and by running a little power it
was easy to set it in softly. at 3200 rpm the approach
speeds and angles were not affected too much but it made
for easier energy management in the flair. ( what i am
trying to say is that it gives you more time.) with more
time and landings i kept reducing the power till at idle.
and depending who is in the pattern i will go to idle when i
turn base. if things are not lining up like you want dont be
afraid to add a bit of power on short final or go to full
power and go around. the runway i am using is 7000 ft and it
is much easier to go to 3800 to 4000 rpm at the beginning of
the flair and fly 3/4 down the runway at 2 to 3 ft off the
ground so i dont have to taxi for ever to get back to the
ramp. hope that helps.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Kolb-List: Use of archive search" (Jul 30, 4:26am)
| Subject: | Re: Use of archive search (Clairfication) |
>--------------
>
>Group,
>
>It occurs to me that many on the list may not be aware how easy it is to
>search the archives.
>
>Here is a short "how to":
>
>1) Click on the Search engine line a the bottom of each message.
>= Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
>
>2) Change the default "RV List" to "Kolb"
>
>3) Type in what you want to search on and click the "Begin Search"
>button.
>
>4) A list of messages will appear. Each time you click on one, a new
>window will open so that you can read it. Close the window to be able to
>select the next message.
>
>That's all there is to it!
>
>John Jung
>--------------
Actually, if you just resize and position the viewing window so that you
can see both it and the window with the list of subjects, you don't have
to close it. Each time you click on a subject line, it will bring up
the message in that same viewing window. You can also click on the
"Next" or "Previous" button from the viewing window to select the next
or previous search match.
Also note that you can use the logical AND and OR in your search by
using the '&' and '|' symbols respectivly in your search string. Here
are some examples:
rotax engine & prop
rotax engine | lycoming engine | auto conversion
You can put as many AND or ORs in the search string as you like. For
now, you can't mix AND and ORs in a search string, however.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wire Ties - Good Source for Material |
| From: | Bruce E Harrison <bharrison(at)juno.com> |
Thanks for the very helpful post--I was aware of some of the "biggies"
but saw a few very useful sites I was not familiar with. I will put this
post in my own archives.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TwinStar Landing Gear and Landing Technique |
On the landing gear for the twinstar, if it is slightly bent, turn it over.
Take the axle off and turn the gear 1/2 turn and put the axle back on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Wire labels . . . |
Hi Bob! May I ask you how you print your wire labels from the computer?
What labels stuff do you print onto? Thanks . . .
I print onto full sheets of Avery label material . . . 8.5 x 11" sheets
in columns. Then stick the full sheet to one of those white plastic
cutting boards. Use an x-acto knife to cut out individual labels
to stick on wire and then cover with heat shrink.
see: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/wiring/s817c.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TwinStar Landing Gear and Landing Technique |
And double check the wheel alignment. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Mhqqqqq(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: TwinStar Landing Gear and Landing Technique
>
> On the landing gear for the twinstar, if it is slightly bent, turn it
over.
> Take the axle off and turn the gear 1/2 turn and put the axle back on.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "deckard" <deckard(at)sheltonbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Fly in at Reelfoot Lake TN |
A group of local flyers are getting together at Reelfoot Lake State Park,
TN. It is located in the western part of state next the MS river. We will be
there Aug 12-13th. I have info on it at the following link.
http://www.sheltonlink.com/~deckard/Reelfoot.html
Jerry Deckard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
Just after roll out for my morning flight one of my airport friends who is
attending A& P school did a courtesy exam of my plane. He showed me a place
where the heat-shrink on one of the engine electrical interface connectors
had split open. A closer look showed the same problem on two of the remaining
connectors. When I engaged these connectors I used a mini torch to do the
shrinking and was very satisfied with the tight appearance when I had
finished. Now there is bare metal showing because this was the only
insulation for these connectors. Apparently the shrinking continued untill
the tube split during the 20 months since it was installed. I think this was
the shrink tube I bought at Radio Shack. The temporary fix was good old
(actually fresh, new) electrical tape. The permanent fix will probably be to
strip off the split shrink tube and use pieces of fuel line over the
connections as I have done in the past.
The flight was limitted to an altitude of about 1,500 because of low overcast
but the air was calm and I got in some good simulated power off landings and
a tour over the local country club. Do those folks really believe that golf
is thrilling? I'm glad they don't know about flying. The air would really be
crowded.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly, 447, 2 blade IVO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff and Carolyn Stripling <striplic(at)tetric.com> |
| Subject: | Trip to Heaven (otherwise known as Oshkosh) |
>All,
>I got a last minute offer of a ride to Oshkosh in the morning. How
>luckey! We'll be plane camping in the North 40. Be back Sun or Mon. It
>has been a couple of years for me. Gotta see what's new... and the new
>Kolbs too.
Sunday... just got back. I met some of the New Kolb Guys... all were very
helpful and friendly. New Kolb is taking the tried and true and making it
better... it ain't cheap thought. I fell in love with the Kolbra (love the
name and really bought the sizzle) and the report from John Hauck that it
is the best flyer of all the designs he has flown... and I think he has
flown them all. I think this has been said by someone else before and it
was meant as a complement... it is so ugly it is beautiful! The cockpit is
sleek and tandem, up high (kinda like an AgCat) and forward with Lexan all
around. Talk about a view. I brought all the literature home to
consider. My wife is hoping that "like gas" the urge to buy will eventully
pass. They put a jabaru engine on the Kolbra and call it a Super
Kolbra. For those interested: Price: $16,288 base with 582. $20,540
base with Jabiru. Add on for covering, paint, options, and freight.
The MKIII Xtra is a nice improvement to the fuselage. There may have been
other changes to the MKIII design (bigger emphenage someone said), but it
looks like most of the changes have been to the fuselage cage and there
mostly on the nose area. It provides a lot more foot room so you sit
straight on and really looks aerodynamic. Full enclosure and dual control
sticks are standard. Prices: $15,306 base for 582. $21,388 base for
912. Add on for covering, paint, options and freight.
Of course, they still offer the Firefly, the Firestar (single or dual),
Slingshot and the MKIIIC (classic). Hopefully, they will offer the low
wing Laser (Lazer) sp??? or whatever they may rename it before too long.
Being practical, I personally have decided to look for an unfinished or
possibly damaged FSII with a 503 to replace my sold Kolb. Anybody know of
one that has not been finished, has been neglected, or is only slightly
damaged? I would appreciate a heads up. Obviously, I am looking for a
bargain.
As mentioned in the short post before I left, I caught a ride up and back
with a Mooney 231 driver - that means turbo, fast and fully equiped. I
have never flown in a Mooney, or IFR with so much equipment and such an
experience pilot to use it. 16K feet over the weather and competence in
and out of the soup. I learned an awfully lot and enjoyed a magic carpet
trip with a real pro pilot. I think I am set up for a ride next
year. Hope so.
Later,
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Plane |
>
>Kolbers,
>
>I plane to install the radio antenna on the top of the nose cone, in
>front of the windscreen. (Sort of a Gun sight). I have lined the inside
>top of the nose cone with a 2 foot square or .002 aluminum.
>
>Question. Should I tie this to the frame/engine ground?
NO
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
"I am in the process of rigging my Mark111Extra and i would
like to hear from other builders on where to put the leading edge of the
stab"
I asked the Kolb factory guys at Oshkosh that exact question on Thursday.
Answer was to put it in the middle & use trim tab on rudder.
Rody
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 07/30/2000 6:07:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ronormar(at)apex.net writes:
<< what do most people do if regards to liability insurance? >>
Ultralight third party liability insurance is also available thru the USUA at
a cost of $154.50 for coverage of $1,000,000.00. Requirements are:
1. You must be a member of USUA ($46.95 annual dues, includes monthly
magazine).
2. You must hold a current UL pilot registration (either USUA or EAA or other
FAA recognized competency program).
3. You must register your UL vehicle/plane either (USUA or EAA or other FAA
recognized vehicle registration program).
CONTACT:
United States Ultralight Association
PO Box 667
Frederick MD 21705
voice 301-695-9100
fax 301-695-0763
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar 377
Audubon NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Plane |
Bob,
Why No? ...Richard S
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ground Plane
>
> >
> >Kolbers,
> >
> >I plane to install the radio antenna on the top of the nose cone, in
> >front of the windscreen. (Sort of a Gun sight). I have lined the inside
> >top of the nose cone with a 2 foot square or .002 aluminum.
> >
> >Question. Should I tie this to the frame/engine ground?
>
> NO
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS Demensions |
Kolbers,
EIS says you need 3 1/8 to 3 7/8 inches of depth to mount their
instrument. I built mine with 4 1/4". Spent a week making one that floats
on rubber, hinges down & unplugs from the plane. The last step was plugging
in the sub D connectors & I found out I am still about 3/8" short. I'm low
on rivots & clean out of patience.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Plane |
Dave's FireStar antenna doesn't have the ground plane tied to the frame, take
a look.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/photo4.jpg
In a message dated 7/30/00 9:03:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rbaker2(at)juno.com
writes:
>
> Kolbers,
>
> I plane to install the radio antenna on the top of the nose cone, in
> front of the windscreen. (Sort of a Gun sight). I have lined the inside
> top of the nose cone with a 2 foot square or .002 aluminum.
>
> Question. Should I tie this to the frame/engine ground?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Morning Flight |
Duane,
Why did you go to the two blade prop & which do you like better
(2 or 3 blades) & why. I dont know which I should get? What is your
opinion?
Ed Diebel (building Firefly in Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
"kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | peto static port |
my first experiment on static peto system was a flop.
while at the airport i saw a 51 super cub with a peto static
setup that i copied and have been real happy with it.
i started with 2 pieces of 3/16 copper tubing. starting
from the top come strait down about 5 inches and make a 45
deg bend, angle at a 45 for about 1 1/2 inches and make
another 45 deg bend, go forward about 3 inches and plug the
end of the tube with solder. back about 1/2 inch and 1
inch from the plug drill two holes clear through the tube,
use as small a drill as you can find.
starting again from the top come down about 5 inches and
bend a 90 deg bend and go forward about 3 inches leaving the
end open.
cut a piece of copper plate.( a piece of 3/4 in copper tube
cut open and hammered flat) to about 1 1/2 inches from front
to back and 1 1/4 from side to side and drill 2 3/16 holes
right next to each other in the front to back direction.
slide the plate over the 2 tubes with the peto tube in front
so that there is about 3 inches to the bends below the plate
and solder the 2 tubes together from the plate down to the
bends and also solder the tubes to the plate but leave the
tubes above the plate separated so you can get tubing pushed
over them. drill holes in the corner of the plate and
mount next to the nose skid. my stall speeds have been
within a mph or so of those advertised by kolb.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | New Windows Utility For SkyMap II/IIIC... |
Listers,
For those of you that have had the pleasure of flying with one of the
new Skyforce/King Skymap II or IIICs, I've been working on a Windows
application that you might be interested in. Its call SkyComm and
allows you to connect up your Windows 95/98/NT/2000 PC or laptop to
the RS232 serial port on the Skymap and manage a number of its internal
datasets. Some of SkyComm's features include Screen Shot Capture,
Upload/Download of up to 4000 characters to the Skymap's internal
Notepad for something like an online checklists etc., Upload/Download of
Waypoint and Route data, and Download of the Skymap's Logger database.
There's even a built in wiring diagram for the requisite RS232 cable! I
have just finished Version 1.0 and am considering this Beta 1. I have
setup a rather extensive web site for information on the application and
for its download.
If you have a SkyMap, you're going to want this program! Best of all,
its FREE! Well, I do ask that those that like it make a voluntary
List contribution... :-)
The URL for the site is listed below and can also now be found off the
main Matronics web site as well as the specific List web pages.
Please download the program and let me know what you think! Comments
should be directed to support(at)matronics.com
SkyComm Web Site
----------------
http://www.matronics.com/skycomm/
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Morning Flight |
Duane, there's a real good chance you burned them with that torch, even tho'
they looked good at the time. Try using a heat gun, or even a hair dryer.
Much gentler, more even heat. There's also a possibility of U/V
degradation, depending on which heat shrink. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <MitchMnD(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2000 3:59 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Morning Flight
>
> Just after roll out for my morning flight one of my airport friends who is
> attending A& P school did a courtesy exam of my plane. He showed me a
place
> where the heat-shrink on one of the engine electrical interface connectors
> had split open. A closer look showed the same problem on two of the
remaining
> connectors. When I engaged these connectors I used a mini torch to do the
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Does anyone know anything about an insurance company out of Canada by the
name of Insurmans. They will insure ultralites for liability and storage
with no pilot requirements. 50 hours of flight time if you want full flight
coverage of the aircraft.
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Charles" <charles.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
Avemco will no longer insure ultralights. I know because they informed me of
this just as I made the switch to USUA. Lucky for me I had made the move.
It takes 8 weeks to process USUA insurance, however it is easy. One point
of change, this policy is in line with European standards for microlights.
Gross weight is restrict to 992# so MKIII owners must be careful of
passenger weights. USUA is the only organization to offer insurance to UL's
at this moment that I know of.
Canadian firms cannot offer insurance here in the states. They are not
licensed to do so. At 150.00 / year, USUA is a no brainer. Just do it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thompson, Charles" <charles.thompson(at)dsl.net> |
Good morning Ben and listers: I just got off the phone with the Klaymour /
Ultratec people and asked about the two different weights they publish. I
now understand the manufactured weight to be 161#. The 137 weight was a
prepro - weight. Sorry for the mistake here.
This weight will come down over the next few months because they are looking
into building the oil tank out of carbon fiber, along with changes in the SS
exhaust system to lighten it's weight. The oil tank is now constructed out
of heat resistant fiberglass.
Ultratec has the engine at Oshkosh running on a modified Slingshot.
Adequate cooling/positioning of the radiator has been the only issue of them
- so I hear.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
This engine is kinda neat. What is the origin? Is it some British Ford
industrial engine with a redrive attached? Is it built for airplanes.
Perhaps it is a Ford Escort motor cut in half. You here lots about half
vw engines. Why not cut a Honda in half.
Just curious because it uses Ford parts.
Makes sense not to start from scratch.
Dan Peterman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | A Kolbra Picture |
Those interested in seeing a completed Kolbra, at Oshkosh,
click here: http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Kolbra.JPG
Picture was taken with an Olympus DL-620, last evening.
If you want the picture, save it to your computer,
because it won't stay on my website forever.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
I just got back from Osh Kosh--My first time. Very cool. No one was
giving rides--I wanted to check out the Xtra and the Kolbra. The Kolbra
looks more llike a Sling Shot Plus. Hard to get in and out of but the
finish on the Light Speed Aviation and the Kolb version is perfect! Poly
Fiber has a tent and were running covering seminars contantly. The
Kolbra climbs well and looks very stable in the pattern but the Xtra seemed
to climb better. No flaps on the Kolbra--lands at 50-55 mph--with the 582
it sounds great. The Xtra with that big 912 sounds like a rocket. I
went to a seminar by Phil Lockwood on Rotax engine maintenance-- well done
he no longer sells the clear blue fuel line--now sells a clear line but
recomends changing yearly. Also wrap the end of the line under your clamps
with a short peice of larger diameted line to protect the line from the
clamp. He recommends overhauls at 300 hours, Pennzoil, and lots of safety
wire on everything. He talked about jetting and even changing the idle
jets from summer to winter to get a better idle. He talked alot on 582
problems with the shaaft seal and possible fixes. Talking to people I
heard about a hose clamp tail that vibrated and broke off in flight ruining
a prop. The clamps with long tails on the engine and frame were most
likely to break of due to the vibration--they recommend cutting the extra
off. The Hirth rep had a seminar as did the HKS rep they were mostly sales
pitches--the Rotax was mainly repair and maintenance.
I saw a powered parachute almost hit the announcers stand--they put 582 in
them now and a pilot wanted to show of and gunned it from a standing start
and started rocking and swinging out over the fence--he never cut power and
kinda came closer than I would have wanted to. There were other planes
there I wanted to see but they were not flying. I saw a Tierra that took
forever to get up and a VW powered plane owned by the guy who designed the
mini max that climbed very fast and landed incredably slow. I would like
to fly there next year. Dale Seitzer--original Firestar
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jung
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 5:43 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Oshkosh Report
Group,
Well I spent the day a Oshkosh, and here is the Kolb news:
First, John Hauck is there. He picked up his plane and made it back to
Oshkosh. He will finish his trip home after the convention.
Second, Jim and Dondi have a Poly Fiber booth there, and they are even
better
in person then on the phone. I enjoyed talking to both of them.
Third, and you may find this suprising, the Mark III Extra sat alone all
day
while the new Kolbra got flown and all kinds of attention. The New Kolb
people that have flown it, are raving over it, saying things like "it
handles
more like a Firestar thaen a Mark III", and "there is nothing that even
compares to it". At Sun-N-Fun the Extra got all the attention, but today
the
Kolbra got much more.
If you are wondering how I can go Oshkosh for a day, I live 60 miles south.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
I just talked to Avemco and they said they would no longer insure two place
ultralites but one place ultralites that were on their approved list, which
the firefly and firestar are, would still be insurable.
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
A little extra information about the Ultratec running on the Kolb:
The Slingshot using the Ultratec was a special built for towing hang gliders. It
replaced a modified Mark III that had been used for the same purpose. The plane
flys out of a local airport and I know the people that run it. They like the
engine but had gear box problems right away. Their heavier than normal prop may
have contributed to the problem. I think that before anyone orders an Ultratec,
they should have all the information, not just what the sales people offer.
John Jung
Thompson, Charles wrote:
>
> snip...
> Ultratec has the engine at Oshkosh running on a modified Slingshot.
> Adequate cooling/positioning of the radiator has been the only issue of them
> - so I hear.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-Firestat II lexan gap seal |
The fabric gap seal in my 1995 Firestar II has finally given up the ghost.
List member Howard Ping was kind enough to send me a spare gap seal he had
(THANKS HOWARD!!). I have been giving serious thought to making the lexan gap
seal as I still have the blueprints and manual. I am interested in any
comments/suggestions members may have that may not be covered in the
blueprints/manual. I disassemble my Firestar each time I fly and store it in
a trailer at the field. Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
RICK KLEBON
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gil mcgarity" <gilmcgarity(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello to all. I am building a Mk3 582 on Eastern Long Island (Hampton Bays).
The kit was mostly built at the factory, I need to mount the 582 w/IVO
3-blade & EIS. I was a Quicksilver dealer/instructor in the early 80's and
built several MX's. I have come to realize that although I am a decent pilot
I am also a lousy craftsman. Lurking on the list I now see the complexity of
the project. I would like to know if there are any Kolb people in my area
that might be willing to help me. It has been a real pleasure to read the
list postings each day.Thank you all.
Gil Mcgarity(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-Lexan gap seal |
The fabric gap seal on my 1995 Firestar II finally gave up the ghost.
Howard Ping was kind enough to send me a spare one he had (THANKS HOWARD!!).
I have been seriously considering making and installing a lexan gap seal (I
still have the blueprints and manual) instead of simply replacing the fabric
gap seal. I would appreciate any comments/suggestions from list members on
the positives/negatives of the lexan gap seal. I am particularly interested
in how to form the .025 aluminum "nose" piece. I fold the plane each time I
fly and store it in a trailer at the field.Thanks in advance for your ideas.
RICK KLEBON
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | engine fairing in use, test report |
Engine fairings...
>
> Why is there no cowling around the powerplants of Kolbs, and for that
matter
> most light pusher configurations? Is this a cooling thing?
>
Others have already answered this but I will add my experience. I don't
think the engine accounts for a large percentage of the total airframe drag
on our planes. Example: I built a fairing for an auxillary fuel tank, and
the same fairing replaces the original gapseal and fairs the face of the
engine. Fairing the engine is a tall order because the engine is a moving
target. It rocks fore and aft and side to side on its shock mounts so you
cannot get the fairing as close as you'd like to. Then there is the hot
exhaust system to work around, which also has a lot of movement. The
trade-off is to make it big enough to fair the big flat face of the front
cylinder and recoil (for less drag), without making it bigger (because
bigger means more wetted area and more drag) so the carbs and exhaust must
end up sticking out the sides, this also makes airflow thru the radiators
acceptable (582 Rotax).
So mine is built like this: imagine the gap seal made of aluminum sheet,
with a square cut out of the center starting at the wing apex going all the
way to the back edge (of the gap seal), cutout is 18 inches wide (gap seal
total width is 36"). The fairing then "grows" out of this cut-out square,
rivetted flush to the front edge of the cutout, and forming a line straight
to the top of the cylinder head, curving on the sides and rivetted in along
the sides. Even with light gauge aluminum (0.030") the thing is way stiff
because of the shape. And in-flight detachment is not a concern as it is
held to the gap seal by about 45 rivets (in fact, the fairing shape is
attached to the bottom of the main gapseal pc, so it cannot come off even
without the rivets).
Performance improvement: None measureable. No top speed change detectable.
However, the unit does enclose the 8.5 gallon tank very nicely. With this
tank, range is now about doubled (18 total useable gallons @ 4.5 gallons
per hour @ 70 mph equals 4 hours duration or 270 miles range assuming zero
wind) . CG unchanged from full to empty as aux tank sets at center of
lift. Empty weight increased only about 6 pounds. Re-fueling the main
tanks from the aux tank is accomplished by opening two fuel petcocks, each
one feeding a main tank by gravity flow. This can be done any time, even
in-flight. If mains are overflowed by use of aux, the main tank caps are
vented by a line to outside the cabin, ending on the gear leg with a
screen, so fuel would run overboard.
It is SO nice to return from a day of flying around with the guys, and
still have a few gallons left in the tank. Stress free.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert F. Bean" <rfbean(at)rochester.infi.net> |
Prediction: next improvement will be a trailing link suspension as per
dirt
bike or four wheeler. Springing can be kept internal. BB do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-Firestat II lexan gap seal |
In a message dated 7/31/00 3:07:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Bklebon4(at)cs.com
writes:
<< I am interested in any
comments/suggestions members may have that may not be covered in the >>
Use aluminum rivets. Make sure where you place the rivets won't hit the
wing. Wherever the gap seal hits the wing put 2" wide Velcro on the wing-it
will the stick out about 1" past the gap seal. Don't cut the Velcro too
short, leave it about 2" past the back of the GS [this will all keep the
Velcro from pulling up when you remove the GS].
Also put 2" Velcro on the GS; only about 1" will hit the wing but the extra
gives you some "meat" for the next step. Pop rivet the GS Velcro to the
Lexan from the inside-out on the corners of the Velcro. For this step, I
used the same big-head rivets as on the ribs. Wherever rivets go thru lexan,
put washers on ; if you don't, the Lexan will eventually crack. Have a good
selection of rivet lengths so your job will look good.
Most importan!! The vertical piece of Lexan supplied was too short [ found
this out after I built the GS] and nothing fit good. I drilled out rivets
and added about 3/4" and put it back togethet but still not enough...... I
suggest you build all of the GS except putting in the vertical piece, slide
it on and mark the location of the vertical piece, remove the GS & measure
the thickness of the wing where the vertical goes. Then cut the vertical to
that dimension.
If you are a tall person, you may want to consider this- my helmet hit the
bottom of the GS and the vibration was bad [I am 6' 0"]. My solution was to
go to Wal-mart & buy a set of plastic bowles with lids [ 3 in the set, cost
about $3, used the largest one as a template. It would just slide inside the
GS. I marked around the inside of the rim of the bowl on the Lexan then cut
out with a sabre saw on the mark. I then riveted the rim of the bowl to the
Lexan [don't forget to use washers]. This bowl, as I recall, is about 12" in
diameter and was opague; clear would be better but I couldn't find one.
Put wide making tape on the Lexan wherever you are going to cut.
I hope this keeps you from making the same mistakes I did.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-Lexan gap seal |
In a message dated 7/31/00 3:58:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Bklebon4(at)cs.com
writes:
<< I am particularly interested
in how to form the .025 aluminum "nose" piece. I fold the plane each time I
fly and store it in a trailer at the field.Thanks in advance for your ideas.
>
I bought the GS kit from Kolb- it's already formed. .025 is pretty thin &
should be easy to hand shape over a tube the same size as the LE.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Why Two Blade |
Reply to Ed Diebel et al: I chose to use a 2 Blade IVO for three reasons. 1/
I am strongly in favor of keeping the weight to a minimum right up to the
point where it starts to effect performance or reliability, 2/ I accept the
common belief that 2-blades are most efficient, 3/ I have used 2-blades on
all three of my Kolbs and have always been able to with the extra vibration
and noise they are reputed to generate. A look at the engine mounting
hardware is a part of every preflight check.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly, 447, IVO 2-blade.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Plane |
>
>Bob,
>
> Why No?
"ground" for power and "ground" for antennas can be totally independent
of each other. The reason for a ground-plane is to provide a reference for
radio frequency antenna currents that are local to the antenna . . . Once
your ground-plane extends away from the antenna by a distance equal to its
height, the benefits of adding more metal fall away rapidly. Look at the
radial sticky-outs around the base of the antennas at airports. You never
see
less than 4 nor more than 8 radials at the base of the antenna. Adding
more only increases weight and cost without improving on the antenna's
ability
to function.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Trying to see if I can get on board with you guys. For a week now I have
enjoyed reading the kolb list. I live in upstate N.Y. and fly a kolb MK111.
It has a 618 with a warp drive 72 in. prop., electric flaps and trim, second
chance, mono float system,and 24 gal. fuel. This past winter I scrappedhe
dual radiator for a chrysler rad. whiI mounted up front. I now see constant
temps of 150* all day long instead of 180* to 190*.. I also had an engine
quit on me as a result of a coil (stator) grounding out on me,.Lately I've
been chasing my tach readings all over. I changed wires, pick up points off
the hot box, etc, to no avail. Finally with the use of a prop tach and my new
"tiny tach" from Air star, which both agree, I can fly with confidence again.
Well I'll check tomarrow to see if this makes the list.. Safe flying to all.
Bob Griffin 528PY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: parts of plane |
I have a large piece of Lexan - enough to re do a whole windshield for
Firestar II.
I also have a 66" wooden prop.
I do not have a price set for them.
Also does any one know the worth of plans for the Kolb Firestar II ?
Kathy Mead
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS Demensions |
What are you putting it in. I got the larger one in a FireFly panel which
is small along with 20# of other stuff. In other words I got a lot packed
into it and it still fits. I did use a subpanel mounted in 1/2" shock
mounts. Works good, looks good.
jerryb
>
>Kolbers,
>
> EIS says you need 3 1/8 to 3 7/8 inches of depth to mount their
>instrument. I built mine with 4 1/4". Spent a week making one that floats
>on rubber, hinges down & unplugs from the plane. The last step was plugging
>in the sub D connectors & I found out I am still about 3/8" short. I'm low
>on rivots & clean out of patience.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Kolbs and other ultralights.. |
Michael Heit wrote:
> I hope this will be as entertaining for the members of this list, as
> it is for me.
>
> http://www.rewindplay.com/mxjournal/hangar.htm
>
> --
> Michael Heit
> Candidate House District 74
> The Constitution Party of Montana
> http://www.ahpom.org
>
>
> "Put on the whole armour of God, that ye may be able to stand against
> the assaults of the devil. For
> we wrestle not (only) against flesh and blood but against
> principalities, against powers, and against
> the worldly governors, (who are) the princes of the darkness of this
> world, against spiritual
> wickedness, which are in the high places."
>
> Ephesians 6:11-12, Cambridge Geneva Bible, 1591 edition.
>
>
> "Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed, as they
> are in almost every kingdom in Europe. The supreme power in America
> cannot enforce unjust laws by the sword, because the whole body of the
> people are armed, and constitute a force superior to any band of
> regular troops that can be, on any pretense, raised in the United
> States. A military force, at the command of Congress, can execute no
> laws, but such as the people perceive to be just and constitutional;
> for they will possess the power, and jealousy will instantly inspire
> the inclination, to resist the execution of a law which appears to the
> unjust and oppressive."
>
> Noah Webster: An Examination of the Leading Principles of the Federal
> Constitution October 17, 1787
>
--
Michael Heit
Candidate House District 74
The Constitution Party of Montana
http://www.ahpom.org
"Put on the whole armour of God, that ye may be able to stand against
the assaults of the devil. For
we wrestle not (only) against flesh and blood but against
principalities, against powers, and against
the worldly governors, (who are) the princes of the darkness of this
world, against spiritual
wickedness, which are in the high places."
Ephesians 6:11-12, Cambridge Geneva Bible, 1591 edition.
"Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed, as they
are in almost every kingdom in Europe. The supreme power in America
cannot enforce unjust laws by the sword, because the whole body of the
people are armed, and constitute a force superior to any band of regular
troops that can be, on any pretense, raised in the United States. A
military force, at the command of Congress, can execute no laws, but
such as the people perceive to be just and constitutional; for they will
possess the power, and jealousy will instantly inspire the inclination,
to resist the execution of a law which appears to the unjust and
oppressive."
Noah Webster: An Examination of the Leading Principles of the Federal
Constitution October 17, 1787
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Why Two Blade |
Duane, Thanks for the input . Have you had a chance to see if the 2-blade
changed cruise or top speed?
Ed Diebel ( Firefly in Hou.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | fine-tuning the needle |
I have found an answer to a problem I've had, and maybe you are having. In
tuning the Bing carb needle position, one clip groove was too rich (EGT was
1000) and the next groove up made it run too lean (EGT touched 1200). So I
added 0.030" shims under the clip, to move the needle position about one
third of a whole groove change. Now I am running almost 1100, pretty
close, at cruise. The shims are aluminum, built like little washers. I
was prepared with another set of 0.030" shims but did not need to run two
one each needle, one on each did the trick.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 7/31/00 7:03:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Airgriff2(at)aol.com writes:
<< This past winter I scrappedhe
dual radiator for a chrysler rad. whiI mounted up front. >>
Bob:
I was interested in your post and your decision to go with a different
radiator. I have been studying the Rotax cooling system, and Rotax 582
cooling related accidents, for a while and have come to a different
conclusion. I'm committed to the stock radiators, at least for the 582. My
reasons are as follows: the operator's manual that came with my 1996 582 said
the "green" range for the water temps was 140 to 180 degrees. In the recent
revision of the 582 operator's manual (available on the web) they have
narrowed the range from 155 to 175.
The message from the Austrians is that they want us to run our engines in
a narrower temperature range. And if you look at the recent changes to the
582, they are virtually all cooling related. That suggests to me that the
cooling system on the 582 is the weak link in the chain, and any changes must
be made cautiously. Indeed, the majority of the cooling related accidents
I've had a chance to study first hand have had one of two characteristics:
first, no thermostat; second, modifications of the stock system, which
usually involve a larger radiator and an increase in the volume of fluid in
the system.
After some thought I am convinced that cooler is not better in this
context. What we need is steady temps, not lower temps. When I throttle
back on final, even with OATs as high as 70 I have seen the water temp
plunge, right out of the "green". That, of course, implicates the whole
"cold seizure" scenario which has been much discussed here. If I had to come
back in with full power to go around I would be outside the recommended
operating range and would be at risk.
I have been carrying around a roll of duct tape and using it to block off
my radiator one strip at a time. I'm making a little chart showing OAT and
numbers of strips needed to stay in range. What I find is that the normal
swing in temps from climb out to low power decent is around 30 to 35 degrees.
In order to stay in the green at the bottom end I have to move up the
average. Put another way, If I have a water temp of 150 degrees at cruise
and transition to a low power decent the temps will decline about 20 degrees
and put me at 130, which is out of the green arc. So I add duct tape strips
to raise my cruise water temps into the 165 range. That way, figuring in a
20 degree decline for decent I'm still in the operating range or close to it.
Keep in mind that all of this is a work in progress. But my observation
thus far is that the stock radiator is more than adequate. I find that with
OATs of under 50 that I am almost completely blocking off one radiator. I
note that I only have 50 hours on my engine and that it may loosen up a
little more as it wears in and the numbers could come down further as the
internal friction declines.
Anyway, glad to hear from you again, and be careful.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: gps palm pilot |
Dave-- Version 6.0 Street Atlas USA can be easily tied into your GPS.
All info in Guide when you purchase program.
If you purchase program-it contains all the steps and operations to guide
you in using-lists all cables-accessories-bells and whistles-covers
everything--also a very good tech support system to assist you.
I do not own any stock in the DeLorme company but know from experience they
are dedicated to detail and accuracy.
data(at)delorme.com or DeLorme,P.O. Box 298, Yarmouth,Me. 04096.
Fax-207-846-7051
Website--www.delorme.com offers general info
Program sells for approx. $9.95 to $19.95 depending on were u buy it.
Very cheap update and gives u unlimited capability--program works on most
GPS's.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Do not D/L Budweiser Frogs S.S (Virus) |
From a very reliable source.Take appropriate action! Advance info.
Lindy
LA-Lower Alabama
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tedbarb" <tedbarb(at)jps.net>
; "Arthur & Nancy Hill" ; "Ellie
Arnie Stone" ; "Les Ginny Chapman"
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 5:30 PM
Subject: Fw: Do not D/L Budweiser Frogs S.S (Virus)
>
> ----- >
> > >
> > > -----: Do not D/L Budweiser Frogs S.S (Virus)
> > >
> > >
> > > > READ IMMEDIATELY AND PASS ON
> > > > Someone is sending out a very cute screensaver of the Budweiser
frogs.
> > If
> > > > you download it, you will lose everything! Your hard drive will
crash
> > and
> > > > someone from the Internet will get your screen name and password.
> > > > DO NOT DOWNLOAD IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES! It just went into
> > circulation
> > > > yesterday. Please distribute this message. This is a new, very
> malicious
> > > > virus and not many people know about it.
> > > > This information was announced yesterday morning from Microsoft.
> Please
> > > > share it with everyone that might access the Internet.
> > > > Once again, pass this along to EVERYONE in your address book so that
> > this
> > > > may be stopped. AOL has said that this is a very dangerous virus and
> > that
> > > > there is NO remedy for it at this time.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Do not D/L Budweiser Frogs S.S (Virus) |
One Word .... HOAX
J.D. Stewart
NCF Communications, Inc.
http://www.ncfcomm.com
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/challenger
GET PAID TO SURF THE NET
http://www.alladvantage.com/home.asp?refid=hoz585
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lindy
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 9:52 AM
> To: Undisclosed-Recipient:@frost.snowhill.com;
> Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: Do not D/L Budweiser Frogs S.S (Virus)
>
>
>
> >From a very reliable source.Take appropriate action! Advance info.
>
> Lindy
> LA-Lower Alabama
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tedbarb" <tedbarb(at)jps.net>
> To: "Dennis Tami Farber"
> ; "Arthur & Nancy Hill" ; "Ellie
> Arnie Stone" ; "Les Ginny Chapman"
> Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 5:30 PM
> Subject: Fw: Do not D/L Budweiser Frogs S.S (Virus)
>
>
> >
> > ----- >
> > > >
> > > > -----: Do not D/L Budweiser Frogs S.S (Virus)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > READ IMMEDIATELY AND PASS ON
> > > > > Someone is sending out a very cute screensaver of the Budweiser
> frogs.
> > > If
> > > > > you download it, you will lose everything! Your hard drive will
> crash
> > > and
> > > > > someone from the Internet will get your screen name and password.
> > > > > DO NOT DOWNLOAD IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES! It just went into
> > > circulation
> > > > > yesterday. Please distribute this message. This is a new, very
> > malicious
> > > > > virus and not many people know about it.
> > > > > This information was announced yesterday morning from Microsoft.
> > Please
> > > > > share it with everyone that might access the Internet.
> > > > > Once again, pass this along to EVERYONE in your address
> book so that
> > > this
> > > > > may be stopped. AOL has said that this is a very
> dangerous virus and
> > > that
> > > > > there is NO remedy for it at this time.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fine-tuning the needle |
Kolbers and Flyers,
It would be interesting to know if your temps stay the same in various
ambient air temps at the same RPM.
I recently flew an XC for 20 hours plus, landed at 22 different airports,
that were at altitudes ranging from 20'-1800'. On that one XC the EGTs
ranged from 900-1150 degrees at the same RPM after the engine had settled
into its' normal operating temperature range. The only difference was the
cockpit air temps which ranged from 60 degrees to 140 degrees. I have come
to the conclusion that the EGT is almost useless as for knowing the exact
EGT temps unless you calculate in the difference in ambient air temps after
you know the cockpit temp has settled. I have also found that with the
instruments in the nose cone, flying into the summer sun, the readings are
always lower and flying in the winter and cooler temps the EGTs are always
higher. Sometimes as much as 100 degrees in both directions. The EGTs do
however give me the opportunity to consider whether or not the engine is
performing as it should. The needle clip position only gives me about 25
degrees difference up or down consistantly for the EGT. The EGT temps change
more from one day to the next if the ambient air temp is dramaticly
different.
The plug reading is still the best indicator as to whether or not the
mixture is close to being correct. The only problem with the plug reading is
the fact that from a cruise RPM through a landing and shut down, the plug
tip can change somewhat to a darker or lighter color. The best senario would
be to stop the engine at cruise and land dead stick, then check the plugs
for the most accurate reading.
Some more things to think about.
Firehawk
>
>I have found an answer to a problem I've had, and maybe you are having. In
>tuning the Bing carb needle position, one clip groove was too rich (EGT was
>1000) and the next groove up made it run too lean (EGT touched 1200). So I
>added 0.030" shims under the clip, to move the needle position about one
>third of a whole groove change. Now I am running almost 1100, pretty
>close, at cruise. The shims are aluminum, built like little washers. I
>was prepared with another set of 0.030" shims but did not need to run two
>one each needle, one on each did the trick.
>Jim G
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | crad238(at)wirefire.com (J. Carl Radcliffe) |
| Subject: | [Fwd: Kolb Firefly for sale] |
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Kolb Firefly for sale
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 15:10:01 -0400
From: crad238 <crad238(at)wirefire.com>
Rebuilt from damage on landing. New wing and fuselage cage. Cage
powdercoated white. Rotax 447, 2 blade Ivo grnd adj prop. Panel: full
size alt, compass, A.S., tach, EGT/CHT both cylinders. No chute. Plane
and engine total time 8 hrs. New plane for less than cost to build.
#11,900. Trailer $800.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Plane |
Bob,
So if I understand you correctly, grounding an an antenna to the
electrical graound wound not make it any worse, its just not going to make
it any better, that is to say, one would not go thru extra trouble to
isolate the antenna ground from chasis ground?
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ground Plane
>
> >
> >Bob,
> >
> > Why No?
>
> "ground" for power and "ground" for antennas can be totally independent
> of each other. The reason for a ground-plane is to provide a reference
for
> radio frequency antenna currents that are local to the antenna . . .
Once
> your ground-plane extends away from the antenna by a distance equal to
its
> height, the benefits of adding more metal fall away rapidly. Look at
the
> radial sticky-outs around the base of the antennas at airports. You
never
> see
> less than 4 nor more than 8 radials at the base of the antenna. Adding
> more only increases weight and cost without improving on the antenna's
> ability
> to function.
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fine-tuning the needle |
>
>I have found an answer to a problem I've had, and maybe you are having. In
>tuning the Bing carb needle position, one clip groove was too rich (EGT was
>1000) and the next groove up made it run too lean (EGT touched 1200).
Don't depend on your egt to much. There is a great variation in temps
depending on where your probe is. Use it as a reference if something starts
to go wrong. Your spark plugs will tell you if you are in the right range.
Use your cht to find the right needle setting for daily use.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS Demensions |
Jerry,
I'm putting it in a SlingShot. The reason it didn't fit is because its
mounted in a 4.25" deep box that hinges on the front of the original
instrument panel surface. The brochure says it needs at most 3 7/8" of
depth. The original installation was impossible to work on, not isolated
from vibration, & I couldn't reach it from the seat.
----- Original Message -----
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: EIS Demensions
>
> What are you putting it in. I got the larger one in a FireFly panel which
> is small along with 20# of other stuff. In other words I got a lot packed
> into it and it still fits. I did use a subpanel mounted in 1/2" shock
> mounts. Works good, looks good.
> jerryb
>
>
> >
> >Kolbers,
> >
> > EIS says you need 3 1/8 to 3 7/8 inches of depth to mount their
> >instrument. I built mine with 4 1/4". Spent a week making one that
floats
> >on rubber, hinges down & unplugs from the plane. The last step was
plugging
> >in the sub D connectors & I found out I am still about 3/8" short. I'm
low
> >on rivots & clean out of patience.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-Firestat II lexan gap seal |
Rick, if I had it to do again I would have made it a 1/4 in wider per
side.G.Aman FS 2 55.5 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Why Two Blade |
Hello Ed, My statement that 3-bladed props are less efficient was based on
hearsay. My FireFly has a 2-blade Ivo. The only 3-blade I have ever used was
on a Tieira I once owned. It was an Ultraprop/Rotax 277 but there is no basis
between that plane and the 3 Kolbs I have owned.
Duane Mitchell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert L Doebler <robertdoebler(at)juno.com> |
I have flown my Firestar 2 , (503) with the original 2 blade factory wood
prop; and with the 3 bladed IVO-Prop.
The 2 bladed factory prop offered a little better takeoff performance,
plus a lot more vibration and prop noise. The 3 bladed IVO was much
smoother and quieter. Yes , due to power matching; the diameters and
pitch were different. And this all effects performance, noise etc.
Would I ever go back to the 2 bladed wood prop? NO WAY!
and that's the bottom line for me. Hope this helps you.
Bob Doebler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2-3 blade prop |
>
>I have flown my Firestar 2 , (503) with the original 2 blade factory wood
>prop; and with the 3 bladed IVO-Prop.
>The 2 bladed factory prop offered a little better takeoff performance,
>plus a lot more vibration and prop noise. The 3 bladed IVO was much
>smoother and quieter. Yes , due to power matching; the diameters and
>pitch were different. And this all effects performance, noise etc.
>
>Would I ever go back to the 2 bladed wood prop? NO WAY!
>and that's the bottom line for me. Hope this helps you.
>
>Bob Doebler
I agree with Bob. When I switched from a 447 to a 503 dual carb (and
switched planes) I also switched to a 3 blade 68" warp drive, now that I
have the engine to turn it.
You can tell the difference. If your engine won't turn a 3 bladed prop
without taking
too much pitch out of it, you may have to stick with a 2 blade.
Has anyone tried the "Bose" active noise-reduction headsets. Think I'm
going to order one.
Give the list a review. <http://www.bose.com/anrheadset/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Plane |
>
>Bob,
>
> So if I understand you correctly, grounding an an antenna to the
>electrical graound wound not make it any worse, its just not going to make
>it any better, that is to say, one would not go thru extra trouble to
>isolate the antenna ground from chasis ground?
It's unnecessary and I has been known to create other problems
if the extra connection causes currents unrelated to the transcevier
to flow in the coax shield. In an all metal airplane, you haven't
got the option but due to the gross amount of contuctor in a metal
ship, voltage drops due to circulating currents are generally low.
Some years ago, it was a popular thing for fiberglas canard-pusher
builders to "ground everything to everything". The airplane had
a sort of spider-web matrix of wires that were supposed to prevent/cure
every ill from p-static, to radio noise, to poor antenna performance.
In fact, it could do little to fix any of these problems and often
created new ones.
With respect to ground planes - either use existing metalic skin,
metalic tube structure or a fabricated ground plane on the under-surface
of a composite/rag surface surrounding the base of the antenna.
There is no need nor advantage to connect a fabricated ground plane
to anything except the antenna base and the coax shield leading away
from the antenna.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ground Plane |
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Richard,
Right now I would settle for a taxi run sans wings. Not having done this
before and without anything/any body to refer to, you cannot believe how
many things I have done and then redone etc.
My son (A&P) was here for a couple of hours the 16th (he brought our
G'daughter for the week), managed in 45 minutes to point out enough
things requiring change to take care of the week.
Still wiring and plumbing.
Ray
writes:
>
>
> Ray,
>
> With all this explanation, I still don't understand why you want to
> build a
> ground plane, isn't that 912 strong enough to lift your plane into
> the air?
> Seems like you spent a lot of money to just taxi your plane on the
> ground!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Matco heel brake oil tank? |
Hi Folks,
Just wondering what you guys with hydraulic heel brakes used for the oil
tank?
I am trying to locate a reservoir from a rear brake of a motocross bike,
or a quad, but the prices they want for these things are insane.
Any suggestions?
Denny Rowe
Mark 3
Western PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fine-tuning the needle |
>
>I have found an answer to a problem I've had, and maybe you are having. In
>tuning the Bing carb needle position, one clip groove was too rich (EGT was
>1000) and the next groove up made it run too lean (EGT touched 1200).
Don't depend on your egt to much. There is a great variation in temps
depending on where your probe is. Use it as a reference if something starts
to go wrong. Your spark plugs will tell you if you are in the right range.
Use your cht to find the right needle setting for daily use.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco heel brake oil tank? |
Thought it came with it. Oh well, I used the Matco Brake Fluid Reservoir
kit from A/C Spruce. Reservoir only is p/n 06-11225 for $19.10, and the
full kit with all the goodies is p/n 06-11230 for $33.70. DON'T pull a
Lar and tighten the fitting in the bottom too much. The reservoir WILL
crack, believe me. Quick waste of a 20. Wiser Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 5:34 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Matco heel brake oil tank?
>
> Hi Folks,
> Just wondering what you guys with hydraulic heel brakes used for the oil
> tank?
> I am trying to locate a reservoir from a rear brake of a motocross bike,
> or a quad, but the prices they want for these things are insane.
> Any suggestions?
> Denny Rowe
> Mark 3
> Western PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
The fabric gap seal in my 1995 Firestar II has finally
given up the ghost.
when i built the mark III i put in the vls chute. it
seemed almost unfeasible to remove the gap seal every time
to fold the wings. so i cut the lexan gap seal about 1/2
inch narrower than the gap and bolted it in perminant.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Possum,
I have not tried the Bose headsets but I imagine they would work well. The
very best setup I have tried is the Lynx system. A friend has this setup in
a 582 Dream Machine and it is unreal. I highly recommend it. I'll be
putting one in my Mark 3 when its done.
I understand that Lynx has a single place unit that has the push to talk
button right on the one earcup. It plugs directly into your transeiver with
no extra wires dangling everywhere.
Good luck,
Denny Rowe
Mark-3
western PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco heel brake oil tank? |
My 1991 Mark 111 instructions suggested using a short length of brake line
connected between the two brake cylinders. My length of tubing is about 1.5
feet long, is about 1/2 full of oil, and has worked just fine for over 300
hours. You do not need a set of expensive Matco oil tanks.
Brian "Kim" Steiner
Saskatchewan, Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 6:34 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Matco heel brake oil tank?
>
> Hi Folks,
> Just wondering what you guys with hydraulic heel brakes used for the oil
> tank?
> I am trying to locate a reservoir from a rear brake of a motocross bike,
> or a quad, but the prices they want for these things are insane.
> Any suggestions?
> Denny Rowe
> Mark 3
> Western PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco heel brake oil tank? |
Any reason you couldn't get a little tin can with a screw on lid and solder
a short length of brass tubing into the bottom of it?
Dump the brake fluid into that?
Just a thought, but us retirees are cheap ya know...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hi Folks,
>Just wondering what you guys with hydraulic heel brakes used for the oil
>tank?
>I am trying to locate a reservoir from a rear brake of a motocross bike,
>or a quad, but the prices they want for these things are insane.
>Any suggestions?
>Denny Rowe
>Mark 3
>Western PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Hudson" <phudson(at)iwvisp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fine-tuning the needle |
Hi gang,
This one brings up some questions and comments,
>[snip] ...I have come
> to the conclusion that the EGT is almost useless as for knowing the exact
> EGT temps unless you calculate in the difference in ambient air temps
after
> you know the cockpit temp has settled.
Are you saying that the difference in the ambient (cockpit) air effects the
gauge reading based on the gauge it being a thermocouple type sensor with
the cockpit air as the reference temperature. [Or is the EGT probe and
"millivolt reading" display always going to read out the same number of
millivolts for the same Exhaust temp.]
>I have also found that with the
> instruments in the nose cone, flying into the summer sun, the readings are
> always lower and flying in the winter and cooler temps the EGTs are always
> higher. Sometimes as much as 100 degrees in both directions.
This could be from the increased air density in cooler weather (therefore
leaner mixture and warmer temps in winter)
Ah gauges...the only helpful thing is most of us are using the same kind of
gauge so when we're comparing temperatures at least thats a constant.
-Peter Hudson-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert F. Bean" <rfbean(at)rochester.infi.net> |
Denny R, early vw bugs have a really nice little tank, try Rocky Mtn
parts
for a new one. BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | egt variations, plug reading, CHT too? |
I wrote...
>>
>>I have found an answer to a problem I've had, and maybe you are having.
In
>>tuning the Bing carb needle position, one clip groove was too rich (EGT
was
>>1000) and the next groove up made it run too lean (EGT touched 1200).
Michael responded...
>I recently flew an XC for 20 hours plus, landed at 22 different airports,
>that were at altitudes ranging from 20'-1800'. On that one XC the EGTs
>ranged from 900-1150 degrees at the same RPM after the engine had settled
>into its' normal operating temperature range. The only difference was the
>cockpit air temps which ranged from 60 degrees to 140 degrees. I have come
>to the conclusion that the EGT is almost useless as for knowing the exact
>EGT temps unless you calculate in the difference in ambient air temps
after
Wow! that's variation. Mine are WAY more consistant. Reread the
instructions that came with the EGT and senders, there is some advice about
minimizing ambient temp influence in there (something about routing or
covering the wires at every connection, because differences in the
connections leads to potential inaccuracies). Our thermocouples are
affected by ambient swings, but 250 degree swings seems impossible. From
memory, the box said something like """the units are calibrated for 70
degrees F, for every degree lower than 70 the gauge will read one degree
too high, and vice versa""" (very rough quote). Michael you have something
else going on here. Mine vary so little from swings in ambient that until
it gets below 45 degrees I don't really see any effect. Now you also
mentioned altitude ranges from 20-1800'. This could be some of your
effect. I do not see any change due to altitude as I am running Rotax HAC.
Mixture is supposed to be held constant thruogh 10000' and the thing does
work great, in my experience. You may wish to compare identical altitudes
(barometric pressures) in future tests.
You are right about calculating in the ambient. The closer to the extremes
you get, the more important it would become.
Woody responded...
> Don't depend on your egt to much. There is a great variation in
temps
>depending on where your probe is. Use it as a reference if something
starts
>to go wrong. Your spark plugs will tell you if you are in the right range.
>Use your cht to find the right needle setting for daily use.
Right Woody, good reminder to always "calibrate" your EGT indicator with
spark plug readings. I prefer to do a full-power 2 minute blast while tied
to the hangar, shut down with throttle open, pull the plugs. Once you've
done this check, the gauges are a good daily reference.
This is a liquid cooled engine. Are there some of you who are using CHT
readings on liquid cooled engines? My panel is plumb out o room already!
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
| Subject: | Matco heel brake oil tank? |
Denny
I used a 12 inch piece of clear fuel line looped up between the master
cylinders. I put a tee at the top with a two inch piece of clear fuel line
pointed straight up. I heated the end of the two inch piece and sealed it
shut, then put a tiny hole in the side for a vent. Has worked great for 200
hrs. and can been viewed instantly on preflight.
Terry
South Eastern PA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Denny Rowe
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 8:34 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Matco heel brake oil tank?
Hi Folks,
Just wondering what you guys with hydraulic heel brakes used for the oil
tank?
I am trying to locate a reservoir from a rear brake of a motocross bike,
or a quad, but the prices they want for these things are insane.
Any suggestions?
Denny Rowe
Mark 3
Western PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Denny
AC part # 15144 for pitot-static.
Terry
BTW, I live just a few miles from Luray Wecter. We flew together several
times before he sold his MK II.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Denny Rowe
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: static port
Terry,
What was your pitot/static tubes part number? I was looking through Aircaft
Spruces catalog and trying to determine which unit you were using.
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
| Subject: | shutting engine down |
Jim, do you think this is a good idea (shutting down the engine under
full power)? The engine is running for a few seconds without ignition
and will leave unburned fuel and oil in the cylinders. This would collect
in the rings causing unnecessary carbon buildup leading to premature ring
sticking. I think this procedure would be fine for storage, but not
after every flight. What do you think?
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar, Mound MN
> I prefer to do a full-power 2 minute blast
> while tied to the hangar, shut down with throttle open, pull the plugs.
> Jim G
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 08/01/00 brake fluid |
In a message dated 8/2/00 3:13:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< rowedl >>I rebuilt one of Matco's master cylinders this past winter. In
checking with them and reading their literature, my model was ok to use
automatic transmission fluid in it. Best to check with them depending on what
you have. Bob G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fine-tuning the needle |
About those cheap little gauges,
Let me try to communicate this another way.
The EGT and CHT has a standard temperature as I understand it which is about
70-72 degrees. ( This is where it is suppose to read accurately) Any degree
above or below that standard at the gauge (cockpit ambient air temperature,
the air around the gauge)will effect the true reading. I understand that the
difference is suppose to be one degree to one degree. That may be true for
certified gauges but my gauges read off somewhere between 2-3 degrees for
every one degree difference.
To test for yourself what I am trying to convey, all you need to do is
turn the nose cone of your aircraft into the sun, let it heat up until you
know the gauge is warmer than usual, then take off. Get to altitude and go
to your normal cruise. This is where it will be obvious. The EGT will always
read lower until the gauge cools down to a normal ambient air temperature.
It is according to what the air temperature is but mine will take as long as
15-20 minutes before it starts reading normal again because of the enclosed
cockpit. An open cockpit will take less time. Climbs and descents don't
count, your reading can be anything during these procedures.
On cool days when the cockpit temperature is lower than normal, the gauges
will always read higher. Again because of the difference in ambient air
temperature and the standard gauge temperature.
Yes, it may be true that the fuel/air mixture is leaner and therefore can
cause the tempts to be higher, but you still won't know for sure until you
find out what your gauges read at that illusive standard temperature. Take
into consideration also that for every 1000' there is about 3 degrees in air
temperature difference. If you are flying in to the sun and the cockpit is
enclosed on a warm summer day, the gauge reading may never read correct
because the nose cone may be holding more heat. Sometimes I have noticed
that flying into and away from the sun for any length of time will give me a
difference in reading.
I say all this so you can be aware that it is not necessary to split hairs
in order to fly our ultralight and light planes with the engines we use. Our
engines have a wider range of tolerence than we understand. But it doesn't
give us the freedom to take those tolerences for granted.
The basic understanding of how our gauges work is enough to keep our engines
within those numbers and for us to fly safe.
More to think about,
Firehawk
>Hi gang,
>
>This one brings up some questions and comments,
>
> > to the conclusion that the EGT is almost useless as for knowing the
>exact
> > EGT temps unless you calculate in the difference in ambient air temps
>after
> > you know the cockpit temp has settled.
>
>Are you saying that the difference in the ambient (cockpit) air effects the
>gauge reading based on the gauge it being a thermocouple type sensor with
>the cockpit air as the reference temperature. [Or is the EGT probe and
>"millivolt reading" display always going to read out the same number of
>millivolts for the same Exhaust temp.]
>
> >I have also found that with the
> > instruments in the nose cone, flying into the summer sun, the readings
>are
> > always lower and flying in the winter and cooler temps the EGTs are
>always
> > higher. Sometimes as much as 100 degrees in both directions.
>
>This could be from the increased air density in cooler weather (therefore
>leaner mixture and warmer temps in winter)
>
>Ah gauges...the only helpful thing is most of us are using the same kind of
>gauge so when we're comparing temperatures at least thats a constant.
>
>-Peter Hudson-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 2-3 blade prop |
In a message dated 8/1/00 6:02:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
possums(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Has anyone tried the "Bose" active noise-reduction headsets. Think I'm
going to order one. >>
I flew an A-36 with the Bose set up. It was astonishingly good.
However, I was always under the impression that the GA headsets were
optimized for the lower sounds of lycoming/continentals, and so did not think
of them as applicable for the Kolb. I recently went around the patch with a
borrowed Dave Clark headset retrofitted with the $169.00 do-it-yourself ANC
kit that you see advertised and was flabergasted. For the money the DIY kit
is unbeatable.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: egt variations, plug reading, CHT too? |
. On that one XC the EGTs
> >ranged from 900-1150 degrees at the same RPM after the engine had settled
>into its' normal operating temperature range.
Sorry, the range should have read 900-1050 degrees. My normal cruise temp
for the EGT is around 1000-1025 degrees. When the thermometer in my cockpit
reads 140 degrees I suspect that the gauge is around 150 degrees.
The temps do not stay at those extremes. The gauges only read off as long as
the cockpit temps are off standard. The plugs are still readings perfect.
Our thermocouples are
>affected by ambient swings, but 250 degree swings seems impossible.
>
>This is a liquid cooled engine. Are there some of you who are using CHT
>readings on liquid cooled engines? My panel is plumb out o room already!
I use CHT as a back up for the water temp reading. The differences are about
10-20 degrees form CHT to water temps. I had a thermostat to come apart in
the engine once, and the CHT was all I had to tell me I wasn't burning the
engine up. The water temp went off the scale. I landed safely with out any
damage to the engine. I also use a water pressure gauge to let me know if
the Rad cap is stuck of if I have a blown head gasket/oring. These have
saved me a lot of worry on long XCs.
>Jim G
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: egt variations, plug reading, CHT too? |
,
> >that were at altitudes ranging from 20'-1800'. On that one XC the EGTs
> >ranged from 900-1150 degrees at the same RPM after the engine had settled
> >into its' normal operating temperature range.
Sorry, the temps should have been 900-1050 not 900-1150
Firehawk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | ANR headset review |
Someone wrote:
>Has anyone tried the "Bose" active noise-reduction headsets. Think I'm
>going to order one. Give the list a review.
I have not had the good "fortune" to try the Bose brand in flight. I tried
on a set at OK, and they were comfortable although they felt kinda big on
my head. I did not seriously consider purchasing them as they are a bit
expensive for my budget at about $900 each.
If you are interested in Active Noise Reduction (ANR) at less than half
that price, please go see the Lightspeed page:
http://www.anrheadsets.com/
I have been using a Lightspeed Aviation 20XL for about 35 hours now in a
582 Mkiii with full enclosure. My full enclosure amplifies the low
frequencies a bit so the noise is pretty bad. I have the stock muffler
(no aftermuffler) and no intake silencer on this 582. The prop is a
three-blade Powerfin 66" . Homemade review of 20XL, in a nutshell;
Lightspeed Aviation 20XL ( i paid $429)
VERY comfortable headset. Not noticeably heavier than my DRE 4000 standard
headset. Earcups deep and foam (not gel) pads very comforming to
eyeglasses frames, etc, and a good fit without extreme clamping pressure on
the head. Headband very comfortable, very adjustable. Mic on swivel, plus
mic boom is flexible tubing type. Construction of headset is mostly
plastic but very nice and feels like you've bought quality. Three year
warranty adds to the feeling. Audio sound quality absolutely great, and
it seems to get even better when ANR is switched on, voices sound natural
and full, this adds greatly to radio communications effectiveness. The ANR
circuitry of the 20XL is totally effective on the exhaust and intake roar
of the 582. It is soo amazing to stand next to the cabin with the engine
idling, put on the headsets and switch on the ANR. Suddenly you can hear
the swish of air by the prop! In-flight, the low prop frequencies are also
cancelled nicely. ANR cannot cancel frequencies above about 500 HZ, so
there is still noise but the passive reduction rating on the 20XL is 22 dB.
One thing that still bugs me is a 6000 RPM ringing sound which may be
coming from the gearbox. If I turn off the ANR circuitry, the exhaust
roar, intake roar, and prop frequencies are so loud I cannot hear the 6000
RPM ring anymore. Note: actually this is the ANR advantage: Once the
symptoms of the engine operation are canceled by the ANR circuitry, you can
actually hear better the other subtile engine sounds. In other words, with
the roar gone, you can hear the important stuff better. You don't need to
hear the roar. But you'd like to hear the engine.
The 20XL runs on 2 AA batteries. Life of batteries is rated at +50 hours.
I have 35 on the first set of Alkalines so far. There is a gauge to show
battery life left, mine still reads full. I I leave it turned on, it
turns itself off about two minutes after I hang it on the flap lever of the
Mkiii.
The 20XL is a stereo set, with mono/stereo selector switch, and volume
control slide potentiometers on the battery box. The batt box is 3" long,
about 1.25" square, located about 2 feet from the plugs-end of the 6 foot
cord. Compatibility is fine for all standard aircraft installs. 0.25"
diameter phone plug and 0.21" dia mic plug are the standard AC stuff and
will plug to your intercomm or radio or handheld adaptor cord. If
batteries go dead, it is supposed to play through for safety. I have not
had this happen yet, but I know if I turn off the batteries, it does still
play through for transmit and receive.
Overall impression at this point-- a good investment. Standard non-ANR
headsets cost 125 to 350, so 429 isn't too far out of the picture. In
hindsight, I should have bought ANR right away. My ears were ringing for a
while there, now I am flying more and can hear radio and intercomm
communications in the plane better, can hear the important engine sounds
better, and my ears don't ring afterwords.
I just checked and Avionics West has the 20XL on sale for $419 today.
http://www.avionicswest.com/lightspeed.html#SPEED
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GDLedbette(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 2-3 blade prop |
Mark,
Tell me more about the David Clark do it yourself ANC kit. I have a David
Clark headset and will be getting a Firefly in September.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fine-tuning the needle |
Group,
I suspect that there my be some confusion about how the temperature guages work,
and why the error is there. Here is how I understand the situation:
Current will flow to the guage and vary with the difference in temperature
between the probe and the wire near the probe. It would not matter what
temperature the guage is. But it will matter where the wire is located. When I
say wire, I mean the wire that came attached to the probe. If it where located
in heated air, then the guage would read low. When I got my 503, slightly used,
the CHT probes were coiled up inside the engine air shroud. Wrong. One might as
well fly without guages as make them ineffective. I relocated the wires to the
airstream.
If I have this wrong, then I would appreciate it if someone would let me know.
I
want to understand it correctly myself, and I don't want to mislead others.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Firestar.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco heel brake oil tank? |
Larry / and others
I have not made a decision on which brakes to use on
my Mk-3 project.
The hydraulic type sounds like the way to go but
should I use the Kolb option or go for one of the
other available sources?
One thing that I would like is to have is wheels with
tapered bareings to try an avoid some of the issues
which I have read about on the list like loose fit
bearings/wheels to axle causing brakes to grab...
Have seen adds for brake systems in UL magazines for
complete systems for about the same price as the Kolb
units offered but have not checked on bearing type .
Any suggestions or input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Ed. Dallas TX>
--- Larry Bourne wrote:
>
>
> Thought it came with it. Oh well, I used the Matco
> Brake Fluid Reservoir
> kit from A/C Spruce. Reservoir only is p/n 06-11225
> for $19.10, and the
> full kit with all the goodies is p/n 06-11230 for
> $33.70. DON'T pull a
> Lar and tighten the fitting in the bottom too much.
> The reservoir WILL
> crack, believe me. Quick waste of a 20.
> Wiser Lar.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
> To: kolb-list
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 5:34 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Matco heel brake oil tank?
>
>
>
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> > Just wondering what you guys with hydraulic heel
> brakes used for the oil
> > tank?
> > I am trying to locate a reservoir from a rear
> brake of a motocross bike,
> > or a quad, but the prices they want for these
> things are insane.
> > Any suggestions?
> > Denny Rowe
> > Mark 3
> > Western PA
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://invites.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 8/1/00 5:59:42 PM, byoung(at)brigham.net writes:
<< when i built the mark III i put in the vls chute. it
seemed almost unfeasible to remove the gap seal every time
to fold the wings. so i cut the lexan gap seal about 1/2
inch narrower than the gap and bolted it in perminant. >>
How easy (hard) is it to get the spar pins in and out when you fold?
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
Hawaii
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 2-3 blade prop |
In a message dated 8/2/00 3:00:56 AM, Cavuontop(at)aol.com writes:
<< I recently went around the patch with a
borrowed Dave Clark headset retrofitted with the $169.00 do-it-yourself ANC
kit that you see advertised and was flabergasted. For the money the DIY kit
is unbeatable. >>
Hey Mark,
Finally got to fly some the last couple of days. The Microair 760 worked
great. I have two headsets, a David Clark and a Sigtronics. The Sigtronics is
much better at keeping engine nose out of my ears. Its mic has a raspy sound
in the sidetone but I get "loud and clear" from other stations. The David
Clark mic is super clear in sidetone but I think it picks up more ambient
noise. Where is the ANC kit available from?
Bill George
Mk-3 582 "C" Powerfin
Hawaii
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: 2-3 blade prop |
I have a active noise reduction kit from Headsets Inc. (I think this is the name)
installed in a Sigtronics headset and it works very well in my VW powered MKIII.
They are most effective in the <1000mz noise range.
Rick Neilsen
VW powered MKIII 39.4 hrs
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 2-3 blade prop |
In a message dated 8/2/00 7:29:55 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
WGeorge737(at)aol.com writes:
<< Where is the ANC kit available from? >>
The company is www.anr-headsets.com/ . Just to expand on my earlier
point, the remark that was made earlier that flying with one of these gizmoes
is actually safer because you can hear what your engine is doing is quite
right. I flew around amazed and listening to sounds I'd never heard before
coming from my engine because the roar was canceled out. I flew around for a
half an hour turning the ANC on and off. It was strangely peaceful with it
on.
In the negative side the side tone struck me as a little thin and tinny.
The thing runs off a 9 volt battery in a tiny plastic box with an off on
switch. My first question was "so what happens when the battery dies?" With
the ANR off it acts just like a regular headset. Again, I didn't think the
audio quality of the new speaker was as good as the original Dave Clark, but
the difference wasn't worth $600.00. When you compare the $900.00 for the
Bose unit, or $500.00 for Dave Clark you simply cannot beat the kit.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Kolbs and other ultralights.. |
For Michael in Montana.
Good luck in your campaign. Have a lot of relations in the State.Need more
UL friendly airports in big sky country!
Lindy Linderman
LA-Lower Alabama
Candidate for Mayor
Level Plains Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Lots of new goodies . . . |
We've added quite a few new goodies which I won't list here
except for one item . . . we've checked out a dozen or so
sample tools from various sources trying to replace the
discontinued AMP Service Tool II. It did a nice job on
both open-barrel D-sub pins -AND- the white plastic nylon
connectors from AMP and Molex that are popular with the
Whelan et. als. Best part was that it didn't cost an arm
and a leg.
We've selected a tool that does a nice job on the full range
of pins from the 20 AWG D-sub pins up through the .093"
pins used in the larger Molex connectors. Our stocking
order has been placed so we can take orders for the tool now.
Check out this and other additions to:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/whatsnew.html
-and-
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/catalog.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Homemade Air Dryer |
>I would guess anything that will absorb moisture would work. Some diapers
>have exterior linings to prevent moisture from passing through the outer
>layer. That may hinder moisture absorption. The person I know that used
this
>homemade dryer used the cheapest napkins he could find. Get the girl friend
>or neighbor lady to make the purchase for you. Waded paper towel may also
>work. At any rate put the dryer at the end of a hose and not directly at the
>compressor. This will give the moisture a chance to condense in the hose.
Getting the moisture out of compressed air is a pretty rudimentary
science. There are a number of things you can do to "wet" air to
make it give up disolved water molecules. Contact with LOTS of
surface area (like the fiber filters cited) will take out SOME
moisture . . . but once it becomes saturated, it's not going to
take any more out. Same thing with hygroscopic materials like
silica gels, kitty-litter, etc. The hygroscopic traps need to
be periodically regenrated by baking the absorbtion medium
in an oven at 250F + degrees.
Having wrestled with the wet air problems in two facilities
I'll have to suggest that COOLING the compressed air is the
BEST way to get it dry. Our large volume air distribution
system at Electro-Mech took the warm compressed air right out
of the compressor through a fan cooled heat exchanger. The
inner tubes were sloped so that water condensing on inside walls
of the exchanger ran downhill into a trap at the low point.
There was an automatic drain at the bottom of the main storage
tank. This exchanger trap and tank drain removed the vast majority
of air ingested. The next step was to slope all horizontal runs
of distribution piping downward at about 2" per 10' so that
water condensing out on piping was swept toward far end where
there were more traps with drains. Branches off the main distribution
were T-connections pointing UP were a 6" upward stub made a
u-turn with two elbows before dropping to the factory floor.
This prevented water lying on the bottom of the distribution
pipe from being swept into the final distribution drop line.
When the air needs to VERY dry, you cool it as much below room
temperature as possible. I had an ice bath in one lab that
surrounded about 50" of 3/4" copper tubing. Again, down-sloped
tubing feeds a lowpoint trap and drain. The final step was
a hygroscopic filter that would push the moisture content down
to a few milligrams per liter at 100 psi.
For higher volume flows like for spray painting, log runs
of distribution piping at room temperature (air conditioning
in your shop does wonders for drying air in the lines) is pretty
inexpensive and easy to build. You need to use copper line for
this . . . plastic is okay pressure wise but doesn't cool the
contents fast enough to precipitate out the water. You can build
a dryer out of 3/4" copper and zig-zag a run on the wall for
as much length as you care to buy and assemble . . . I'd
suggest 40' as a minimum. Space off the wall and blow ambient
air over it with a fan. Put a low point trap and a good riser
from the trap to your supply line and you'll be surprised how
much water you can drain from the trap every hour.
One builder I met at a fly-in told me about a dryer he made
with an ordinary refrigerator. He build a loosely coiled
copper "still" trap from 100' of soft copper. He installed
it in the cold-box volume of the reefer and put some circulating
fans inside. With the fans running and the box set for max cold,
he was able spray very water sensitive paints in his Houston TX
shop with outside humidities running in the 60s . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fine-tuning the needle |
Peter & All,
The EIS system compensates for ambient tempt on the CHT & EGT & even the
length of the extension wires which is usually needed on Kolbs. I checked
the temps on a 98 degree day with a certified digital pyrometer & the EIS
readings were within 1 degree. None of my Westach guauges fell within 10%.
My EGT was off 75 degrees & my rpm was off 800 at 6,200rpm (it was really
turning 5400).
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Hudson <phudson(at)iwvisp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 1:39 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: fine-tuning the needle
>
> Hi gang,
>
> This one brings up some questions and comments,
>
>
> >[snip] ...I have come
> > to the conclusion that the EGT is almost useless as for knowing the
exact
> > EGT temps unless you calculate in the difference in ambient air temps
> after
> > you know the cockpit temp has settled.
>
> Are you saying that the difference in the ambient (cockpit) air effects
the
> gauge reading based on the gauge it being a thermocouple type sensor with
> the cockpit air as the reference temperature. [Or is the EGT probe and
> "millivolt reading" display always going to read out the same number of
> millivolts for the same Exhaust temp.]
>
> >I have also found that with the
> > instruments in the nose cone, flying into the summer sun, the readings
are
> > always lower and flying in the winter and cooler temps the EGTs are
always
> > higher. Sometimes as much as 100 degrees in both directions.
>
> This could be from the increased air density in cooler weather (therefore
> leaner mixture and warmer temps in winter)
>
> Ah gauges...the only helpful thing is most of us are using the same kind
of
> gauge so when we're comparing temperatures at least thats a constant.
>
> -Peter Hudson-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Heit <bearman(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Kolbs and other ultralights.. |
I recall Level Plains, from my student WOC days at Rucker. 1967. When
elected, I plan to introduce a bill for the Montana Department of Highways to
measure off and mark clearly, appropriate length of road for "unscheduled"
landings, and open rural roads to landing. Also, any "Public property" owned
by the State to be open to UL operations...
Lindy wrote:
>
> For Michael in Montana.
>
> Good luck in your campaign. Have a lot of relations in the State.Need more
> UL friendly airports in big sky country!
>
> Lindy Linderman
> LA-Lower Alabama
> Candidate for Mayor
> Level Plains Alabama
>
--
Michael Heit
Candidate House District 74
The Constitution Party of Montana
http://www.ahpom.org
"Put on the whole armour of God, that ye may be able to stand against the
assaults of the devil. For
we wrestle not (only) against flesh and blood but against principalities,
against powers, and against
the worldly governors, (who are) the princes of the darkness of this world,
against spiritual
wickedness, which are in the high places."
Ephesians 6:11-12, Cambridge Geneva Bible, 1591 edition.
"Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed, as they are in
almost every kingdom in Europe. The supreme power in America cannot enforce
unjust laws by the sword, because the whole body of the people are armed, and
constitute a force superior to any band of regular troops that can be, on any
pretense, raised in the United States. A military force, at the command of
Congress, can execute no laws, but such as the people perceive to be just and
constitutional; for they will possess the power, and jealousy will instantly
inspire the inclination, to resist the execution of a law which appears to the
unjust and oppressive."
Noah Webster: An Examination of the Leading Principles of the Federal
Constitution October 17, 1787
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR headsets |
Gene,
FWIW, I've used the Headsets, Inc. ANR product in my H10-80 David
Clarks for over 2 years and can attest to the fact that they are one of the
best-kept secrets in aviation. Work great, easy to install and worth every
penny. I also have used Sennheisers and Bose, no discernible difference.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: <GDLedbette(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2-3 blade prop
>
> Mark,
> Tell me more about the David Clark do it yourself ANC kit. I have a David
> Clark headset and will be getting a Firefly in September.
> Gene
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco heel brake oil tank? |
For myself, I can't say too much. I bought mine ( Matco hydraulic discs )
through Kolb as an extra price option on the kit. Didn't research any of
the others. I did find that on earlier brakes, ( mine ) that some weren't
assembled correctly, and the bearings were pressed in crooked. Made for an
interesting wobble. Matco fixed it immediately, and for free, then told me
they'd added an extra inspection point to prevent further occurences. Good
outfit to deal with. Apparently those brakes are meant for racing go-karts.
Should hold up for us. I had a lesson in the Champ at Apple Valley this
morning. Champ is set up with cable brakes, and if they're representative
of the breed, you can have them. Junk ! ! ! Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 7:02 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Matco heel brake oil tank?
>
> Larry / and others
> I have not made a decision on which brakes to use on
> my Mk-3 project.
> The hydraulic type sounds like the way to go but
> should I use the Kolb option or go for one of the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flying Kolbs and other ultralights.. |
Honest, representee government has nothing to fear from an armed populace.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Hauck is Back! |
For John H
Welcome Home--all is well in Lower Alabama-only UL news is warpman is moving
to Las Vegas--we are already planning x/c . We took his plane apart Sunday
after a good weekend flying out of the Marianna Airport--Hauled it to his
house in Dothan on my 26' acft trailer..Afro-engineered and got it and wings
into garage-his wife not to happy!
Glen Rinck is build Richard a new Challenger single place--I say it is a
combination of Kolb -Challenger and Air Cam..
They finally flew air cam out before Glenn wanted them to---someplace at a
fly in they could not shut one engine down. Interesting!
Again welcome back.!If you need any help do not hesitate to call or send an
E-mail-I am busy-running for mayor of the speed trap capital of Alabama. If
elected will build an UL strip between Daleville and Enterprise!
Lindy
Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Kolbers,
Installing 4" prop extension on 912. How much torque do I put on the
5/16 th bolts securing the extension to the flange on the engine?
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fine-tuning the needle |
In a message dated 8/2/00 1:36:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
phudson(at)iwvisp.com writes:
<< instruments in the nose cone, flying into the summer sun, the readings are
> always lower and flying in the winter and cooler temps the EGTs are always
> higher. Sometimes as much as 100 degrees in both directions.
This could be from the increased air density in cooler weather (therefore
leaner mixture and warmer temps in winter)
Ah gauges...the only helpful thing is most of us are using the same kind of
gauge so when we're comparing temperatures at least thats a constant.
-Peter Hudson-
>>
Don't forget the "wrong" reading caused by the second two thermocouples
created by the "extra" connections required when your EGT meter leads were
found to be too short and you used Copper wire to extend them! You should
have the correct reading ,however, if you went out and purchased the
"correct" type of thermocouple wire.
GeoR38
driver of By George!
the Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Group , Which make prop is the best and why? Anyone had a 2- blade then
switch to a 3-blade prop of same make& materials? Finally, anyone know what
the fan cooled 447 Rotax W / " B " Box weighs ?
Thanks for all info,
Ed Diebel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael highsmith" <firehawk54(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fine-tuning the needle |
>
> The EIS system compensates for ambient tempt on the CHT & EGT & even
July 18, 2000 - August 03, 2000
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cf