Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ck
October 09, 2000 - October 23, 2000
> in this manner with the errors being in the side of
> safety. for starters figure that the internal resistance
> of the battery pack is 0 (zero) then figure the charge
> rate you want to run through the batteries. (usually 1/10
> of the rated capacity.) for 600 ma hour batteries use 60 ma
> charge rate. using the formula volts/amps=resistance
> start the math. say you have a 13.8 volt source divide
> that by .06 and you get 230 ohms. now to find out what watt
> rating of resistor to use the following formula helps.
> watts = volt x amps 13.8volts X .06amps gives you .828
> watts now anything over a 1 watt resistor should not over
> heat and burn up. i would probably use at least 1.5 watt
> resistor or larger for a bit more safety. now remember
> that we assumed the nicads had a resistance of 0
> when in fact their internal resistance is greater than
> that. so the total resistance of the circuit will be
> greater than the 230 ohms of the resistor. and thus the
> current will be less than the .06 we figured for. thus we
> have erred on the side of safety. now for the charge
> time. you have to put into the batteries 1.4 times their
> rated power in order to charge them so by charging at
> 1/10 th the amphour rating you have to charge for 14
> hours. some batteries will take a charge rate of 1/5 th
> the amphour rating in which case you would charge for 7
> hours. at 1/5 the amphour charge rate the nicads will
> over heat after the 7 hours and this will shorten their life
> span. at 1/10 th the amphour charge rate, you can normaly
> leave the charge on for much longer times with no damage.
> after getting the battery fully charged you can further
> reduce the charge rate by increasing the value of the
> resistor by two times, and maintain the battery at full
> charge by leaving the charger on with no time limits.
>
> any questions boyd
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: charging NiCads |
My two cents. I have been in RC planes for a long time and the ongoing
thought on this is charge the bats at 10% of their capacity. i.e., 600 mil
amp at 60 mil to charge normally and 1% to trickle, i.e. 600 mil amp at 6 mil
to maintain charge and not overheat. Remember, you cannot trickle and keep a
surface charge, only the real charge or sustained charge on the bats. So,
when you hot charge to 1.3 volts or so, it will actually drop when on
sustained trickle. You can also buy a pulsing unit you plug into your wall
socket and put a regular charger, 10% charger on itand it will pulse and keep
a trickle going. We use them for models and keep bats for years without
fail. If you want further info please email me. Our experience is you
cannot keep a liquid bat. on trickle. The liquid does not like this and will
overheat it and kill it. Many might say I am all wet but the RC world has
been doing this for years and saved many of airplanes from sure disaster.
Ted Cowan, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 10/08/00 |
In a message dated 10/9/00 3:00:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Folks,
Just joined your list and am enjoying the wonderful spirit of sharing
between passionate pilots. I am looking for a Mark III. I am in
Louisville, Ky. If you know of one please pass it along.
Thank you.
Bob Brocious
Tenacity Farm
>>
I know a Bob Brocious from the Warren Ohio area....are you the same?
GeoR38........ George Randolph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Batteries - Warning to Gel battery owners |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>> RG batteries are quite tolerant of
>> high recharge rates and the few seconds of connection needed
>> to crank an engine are not likely to heat things up even in
>> a relatively tired battery.
>>
>
>That's good to know. I recently jumped mine and can attest it suffered no
>apparent ill effects. At least I think it is an RG Battery. It's a "Gill
>Aero 30 Sealed Battery" which Aircraft Spruce terms a "Gell Cell Battery".
>However, I would infer from Bob's comments that it's really an RG.
>
>I do have one nagging concern about my Gill Aero 30, assuming it's really an
>RG: Aircraft Spruce's catalogue has some language in it (see p. 362 under
>"Sealed immobilized Electrolyte Batteries (Gel Type)") suggesting that the
>charging voltage must be precisely regulated at 13.8 v. +- 0.2 volts to
>avoid shortening the life of these batteries. They recommend a $200
>regulator to accomplish this. My question is, is this true? Does it apply
>only to bona fide gel cells or does it apply also to RG batteries? My
>charging system charges at about 14.5 v. Do I need a $200.00 regulator?
>Finally, if I forget and leave the master on and need to recharge the
>battery in the hanger, do I need a special charger to avoid zonking it? The
>Aircraft Spruce Catalogue implies that this is the case for "gell cell and
>sealed batteries" --see the write up for the "Electronic Power Systems"
>charger, same page.
The conventional wisdom being circulated conforms to
the fondest wishes of the folk who build and sell batteries.
"Treat my product with tender loving care and it will
give you the best performance possible." This always
begs the question, "how far outside the envelope of
TLC will the product still provide satisfactory performance?"
We know that an RG battery (or any other lead-acid battery)
will eventually achieve 100% charge when maintained at 13.8
volts at room temperature. We also know that automotive and
aircraft OEMs have favored 14.2 to 14.4 volts as a level
that speeds up recovery of a battery's state of charge soon
after the engine starts . . . the higher voltage also favors
performance in cold weather.
A couple of years ago, I purchased a used GMC Saffari van
and until September a year ago, had no occasion to check on
the health of the electrical system. When the flooded battery
barfed, I stuck in a used and several times deep-cycled RG
battery I had purchased from B&C to power portable test
equipment in some testing I was doing on the Beechjet. The
battery was just laying around the shop so I decided to
use it up in my van.
After installation, I did a quick check of the charging
voltage and was astounded to find it running 15.1 volts!
Hmmmmm . . . how long had it been that high? Did the
elevated voltage barf the flooded battery? The date
code on the flooded battery was over three years old.
The regulator was built in to a 100A alternator and I
wasn't eager to replace the thing. I decided to leave it
and see what happened.
14 months later, the alternator barfed and I had to replace
it. The new charging voltage is 14.4 volts. The RG battery
is still there and about to enter its second winter
of operation. I also know that when we tested the RG
batteries for B&C's STC, one of the tests the FAA asked
for was to show resistance to thermal runaway. This involves
putting 16.0 volts on the battery and see what happens.
Well . . . not much. The battery soaked up some more charge
but in less than an hour, the current going into the battery
dropped to less than 100 milliamperes. The battery warmed up
less than 1 degree C.
Now, all of the above is anecdotal. The experience I
can share speaks to observations on two batteries. However,
there is a strong suggestion from these observations that
RG batteries are not fragile creatures to be pampered
lest they sigh and die.
The short answer to the question above is, "no" a $200
regulator is not required . . . it may "help" but I'm
beginning to suspect that "helping" means 24 months of
service as opposed to perhaps 22 months of service. The
real bottom line of battery reliability in airplanes is
to KNOW what it's capacity is by either periodic testing
after one year -OR- periodic replacement at cycles which
insure e-bus capacity equal to or greater than fuel
capacity. The real trick here is consdiered preventative
maintenance, not agonizing over how well your regulator
works.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [c-a] Panel power jack for hand-helds . . . |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>>
>> >What size wire and fuse for cigar lighter
>> >type 12v outlet? to be used for portable radio or gps.
>>
>I just had to replace the fuse of the cigar lighter in my Caddillac.
>It's 20A.
>
But don't forget . . . fuses and breakers protect wire.
Wire carries current for the loads you anticipate running
from the circuit. A hand-held radio would be very hard
pressed to draw more than 1 amp from any source. Wiring
your hand held power jack with 22AWG wire fused at 2A
will be quite adequate to the task for which the jack
was installed. That is unless you plan to light cigaretts
from it when not using the radios in which case you'll
need 14AWG and 15A . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
Scott would you happen to have any more shots taken from your wing like that
one??? Would love to get a few ...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pam & Scott
Trask
Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 5:41 PM
Subject: Kolb-List:
Hi,
Thought this might be of interest to some. It's a nice photo of my Young
Eagle passenger last weekend.
http://www.upgroup.com/dnews/loclnews.html (October 7, 2000)
Scott Trask
Iron Mountain, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
"Kolb List"
----- Original Message -----
From: William Herren <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 10:38 PM
Subject: Drains
> You do still recommend using a soldering iron to make the holes don't you?
Bill in
> Lousyana
>
Yes, we sure do! The "pencil point" soldering iron "quarterizes" the fabric
around the hole.
Also, our Poly-Fiber manual says install holes with the soldering iron
through two layers of fabric.......finishing tape counts for this.
Be careful with a long soldering iron, we don't need drain holes in the top
of anything!
Thanx
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com
www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
Ok, Ok, so the size of the hole depends on how hard it's rainin'!!
I wrote that answer BC (before coffee) this AM......
Thanks for the correction!!
Jim
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com
www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Noyer <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 11:49 AM
Subject: Hole sizes
> Friends Jim&Dondi,
>
> As a writer I dearly love puns, and your answer regarding drain holes
> was Great! "...quarterizes...' Dang, that would need an old-fashioned
> plumber's soldering iron to make a quarter-sized hole. Think of all the
> young pilots getting caught in the Draft (from such a hole). Perhaps
> cauterized?
>
> Seriously, when my factory-built FireFly was delivered sans wings, I
> heard a sloshing noise in both wings. Did the 40W pencil iron treatment
> and got more than a large coffee mug of stale water out of each side.
>
> best regards,
>
> bn
>
> http://members.xoom.com/ronoyer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Mark III |
>
>Folks,
>Just joined your list and am enjoying the wonderful spirit of sharing
>between passionate pilots. I am looking for a Mark III. I am in
>Louisville, Ky. If you know of one please pass it along.
Gosh I asked the same question last year and found 2 of them. You
should have good luck finding one. Even a total rebuild is not hard to do
once you get started.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: New Web Site of Interest to Builders |
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com, kolb-list(at)matronics.com,
homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com
Thanks Jack for the nice Ad.
Terminal town is up and running. You can find it at http://terminaltown.com
or click here Terminal Town's
I am still tweaking the pages and the pricing...So look us over and let me
know what you folks think.
I will be running a Special for List Members and will announce it when it's
up.
All the How To Pages are on Terminal Town's site now.
________________________________________________________________________________
Fellow Listers:
Thanks for all of the replies, It's nice to know I'm not the only Kolb pilot
that suffers from brain farts now and then.
My prop looks good as new now. I started by putting thin CA glue (used for
building RC airplanes) on the loosened fibers and pressed them into place for
30 secs or so till it set. I then filed off the high spots and filled in the
low spots with J-B Weld. Be sure to clean each spot to be epoxied with
alcohol or MEK and scuff sand with scotch-bright or equivaIant to get good
adhesion. This morning I filed the J-B weld to match the prop profile and
installed new stainless tape.
The tape hid all of by boo-boos nicely. By the way, always use pliers to
peel off of the old tape. The instructions on www.ivoprop.com recommended
it, but being a mechanic by trade and impatient by nature I started by using
my fingers. Next thing I know, I'm using the CA glue on my finger to stop
the bleeding. Use the pliers. I was pleasantly surprised to find that all
of the random small dings in the tape did not telescope through to the prop.
I had expected to find a lot of small pits in the leading edge, but the blade
looked like new after the tape was removed. I think I'll add prop tape
replacement to my list of annual change outs. Maybe I should get some wheel
pants to keep the tires from kicking up dirt and small rocks?
Robert: I got my prop tape from CPS. I comes cut to shape for about $5 a
blade. You might also be able to get it direct from IVO at their website.
The sight also has great illustrated instructions for installing new tape.
Roger in Ashland, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
Dillsburg Aeroplane 717-432-4589
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | decisions database? |
Here I'm anguishing about what Kolb to get, and all of you have the
information, experience, and answers I probably need!
Would you mind sharing the whats and whys of your planes for me ?
Please fill in the following, and send it back to me (off list if you
want).
What plane have you?
Building or under construction?
Which engine?
Which prop?
Which instruments?
Have you a BRS chute or similar?
What overall cost roughly?
Have you a trailer?
Anything else special?
Why did you choose this aircraft?
What do you like most about it?
What do you like least about it?
Anything else you'd like to share?
Would you like this info shared in a master database matrix on the Kolb
list?
If so, anonymously?
THANKS A BUNCH !!!
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III Door Hinges |
Ray
Highly recommend you give Glen Rinck a call at 850-592-5891. I am sure he
can help you out. He is well know to many on this list. Not to much about
all make/s and model/s Kolbs he does not know.
Lindy
Level Plains, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
I am almost at the point where I need to make some decisions about covering.
I am going with Poly-Fiber but not real sure about which cloth to select or
the number of coats of PolyBrush / PolySpray / PolyTone.
If y'all would, please ring out what you combination was used on your birds.
I would like to get a consensus.
Robert Haines
St. Louis, MO
SlingShot wannabe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
Sure will share the database info Jerry! May need a little help with a
webpage though.
Got 3 responses so far, I think it will be very enlightening. Any of
you not respond yet, please do. This type of stuff really helps
green-horns.
I'll keep the info up'data'd, say, twice a year?
Pictures will work too, ya'll. Send'em if you got'em.
--- Flyul01(at)aol.com wrote:
> John,
>
> I'd be very interested in seeing the database when you get it
> finished, as
> I'm in the same boat. I'm looking into getting a crashed Ultrastar
> and
> rebuilding the cage as I'm on a semi-tight budget. Perhaps you could
> put the
> database on a webpage.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jerry
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Mark III |
| From: | Bruce E Harrison <bharrison(at)juno.com> |
There is a Mark III kit available for sale here in Columbia, SC. The
wing and tail kit is mostly complete. The covering kit is available, but
not the fuselage kit. Contact me for details and the owner's e-mail
address if interested.
Kolbless in Kolumbia
writes:
>
>
> Folks,
> Just joined your list and am enjoying the wonderful spirit of
> sharing
> between passionate pilots. I am looking for a Mark III. I am in
> Louisville, Ky. If you know of one please pass it along.
> Thank you.
> Bob Brocious
> Tenacity Farm
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: Mark III |
I've an interest too, what are the details and who can I contact?
Thanks
--- Bruce E Harrison wrote:
>
>
> There is a Mark III kit available for sale here in Columbia, SC. The
> wing and tail kit is mostly complete. The covering kit is available,
> but
> not the fuselage kit. Contact me for details and the owner's e-mail
> address if interested.
>
> Kolbless in Kolumbia
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 10/08/00 |
In a message dated 10/9/00 2:00:33 AM Central Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> yes it is possible to use the cb antenna with your new narco
> nav/com------- if you want to buy another new nav/com in the
> near future. or at least get it repaired after you burn
> out the finals.
Hey boyd...what are the finals and how do you know when you burn them out?
Steve......Mk2
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/9/00 8:56:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
NealMcCann(at)aol.com writes:
<< That's my next project
though. Retainers for caps. >>
How would one go about doing that?
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Talk to Jim and Dondi. They'll walk you thru the whole thing.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 3:14 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: covering
>
> I am almost at the point where I need to make some decisions about
covering.
> I am going with Poly-Fiber but not real sure about which cloth to select
or
> the number of coats of PolyBrush / PolySpray / PolyTone.
>
> If y'all would, please ring out what you combination was used on your
birds.
> I would like to get a consensus.
>
>
> Robert Haines
> St. Louis, MO
> SlingShot wannabe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: decisions database? |
>
>Here I'm anguishing about what Kolb to get, and all of you have the
>information, experience, and answers I probably need!
>
>Would you mind sharing the whats and whys of your planes for me ?
>Please fill in the following, and send it back to me (off list if you
>want).
>
>What plane have you?
>MKIII
>
>Building or under construction?
>Built 1996
>
>Which engine?
>Rotax 532
>
>Which prop?
>Ivo 66" 2-blade/3" hub extension
>
>Which instruments?
>small steam gauge
>
>Have you a BRS chute or similar?
>2nd Chantz soft
>
>What overall cost roughly?
>$13,000
>
>Have you a trailer?
>no
>
>Anything else special?
>Modified windshield, fuel tanks, aileron linkage
>
>Why did you choose this aircraft?
>STOL, side by side, reputation
>
>What do you like most about it?
>STOL, performance spread slow flight to top end, agility, visibility
>
>What do you like least about it?
>I would like a nose that is a compromise between the Xtra front end, and
the standard MKIII
>
>Anything else you'd like to share?
>
>
>Would you like this info shared in a master database matrix on the Kolb
>list?
>Go for it
>
>If so, anonymously?
>
>
>THANKS A BUNCH !!!
>
>=====
>John & Lynn Richmond :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: charging NiCads |
Ted-White Lightning
Read your informative accurate post. Noticed your putting your location
on/at end of message.Latest upgrade on what you discussed is AA NI-MH---a
little expensive but very reliable.
As a dedicated Yankee transplant to Alabama please be more accurate in your
address- Alabama a very large place---
since the Kolb list is read by individuals worldwide- Highly recommend you
add the following to your signature block--
I researched all flying ultralight or similar type UL vehicles in this area
of Alabama and should not be a conflict of interest and it will also help us
improve our State image nationally and internationally. ( In UL flying that
is) I realize many do not know flying in LA-Lower Alabama is one of the best
kept secrets in UL flying. 12 months and flat terrain.!!!! we are approx.
100 miles below freeze line.
Some recommended additions to your name line--I.E- 2nd-3rdLine.I am sure you
can come up with a few also.
War Eagle Country ( Auburn-Oplieka, Alabama)
White Lightning--Not the real sipping Stuff
Central Alabama Kolb Sales/Demo team
Candy Drop Kid---by the way when we landed at Sadies Flea Market-they wanted
to know when you were coming back--with the candy!
Heard Hauck is using Tommy Hawk-but since they got whipped down in Miami I
guess he will have to stick with the "Titus Kid" handle
Additional digital photo's being transmitted tonight-low level recon
flights in Mark 3.
Lindy
Dodo 2
*Level Plains, Alabama
5 miles West of the Home of Army Aviation-Fort Rucker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: decisions database? |
>
>Here I'm anguishing about what Kolb to get, and all of you have the
>information, experience, and answers I probably need!
>
>Would you mind sharing the whats and whys of your planes for me ?
>Please fill in the following, and send it back to me (off list if you
>want).
>
>What plane have you?
FireFly
>
>Building or under construction?
In the air for a year plus
>
>Which engine?
447
>
>
>Which prop?
IVO 60 inch - Started with a three blade and switched to a two blade to get
rid of low frequency rumble on cross countries, and to save weight to stay
a legal ul. Have since discovered the rumble may have been caused by loose
rear wing spar hinge swivel joints. I do not plan to switch back to the
three blade prop because the two blade prop has much less inertia and it is
much easier on the gear box when the engine is running at low speeds.
>
>
>Which instruments?
I have a rather full panel for going cross country. Air speed, vertical
speed, ball, altimeter, air temp, CHT & EGT, tach, hour meter, and adding a
fuel flow rate meter. Also I have a cross wind string.
>
>
>Have you a BRS chute or similar
No
>
>
>What overall cost roughly?
$10K
>
>
>Have you a trailer?
Yes but has not been converted
>
>
>Anything else special?
This is a very good little fun plane. If you are careful you can get it
built at ten pounds under the legal weight. Currently I am four pounds
under with small wheels with brakes, strobe lights top and bottom, an
external antenna and enclosed luggage compartments behind the gas tank. I
am flying with the short windshield.
The ailerons were very heavy which made it a bear to fly in the middle of
the day and tiring to fly cross country, but by moving the aileron push rod
tube attachments in toward the center of rotation on the "T" bar 13/16 of
an inch, (20 degree down max aileron deflection) it has become a two finger
stick airplane. You can fly it any time of day and through just about
anything without the wings or the plane getting a head of you and feel
fresh when you arrive. Also it side slips well so that during cross wind
landings is it is just like you are on a string.
The Firefly has a short wing, and so it is a little roll sensitive or
twitchy. To give it a better feel and to get a better climb, I installed
vortex generators, one between each rib. It gives about 200 fpm better
climb, and bigger (higher aspect ratio) wing feel. Also with stick held
back against the stop on take off, the plane will fly off at 27 mphi into
the ground effect. And on landing you can use the same ground effect.
The only negative, if you want to call it that, is that you must put it
down straight. Do not fly it until you can keep it straight with the
rudder with out having to think about it. You must not let it get a head
of you. People who say ul's are easier to fly than ga planes should be
shot. Ul's are just different. The Firefly flies just like a ga plane
control wise, but it has very little mass. Therefore if the engine quits,
you must get the nose down immediately. You do not have to lower the nose
in a bank, because there so little weight it will not normally drop a wing.
You can fly down to the runway and then cut back the power and land. You
do not have to worry about rotation and energy to keep from smacking the
ground.
>
>
>Why did you choose this aircraft?
Old and FAA gave me trouble on my last medical
>
>
>What do you like most about it?
If I don't like it I can change it. I like flying with my head out (I wear
a soft helmet with radio headset for sound suppression). I like flying
cross country with it. It is fun, costs less and is safer that a Harley.
>
>
>What do you like least about it?
The front seat support is too high. It should be lowered about two to
three inches. I am short legged and long in the trunk. As result I have
had to move my rear forward four inches so that I can get on the rudder
pedals, and to get the stick forward. This took 3 pounds of foam to get me
there. I have since gone to a sling seat where it is not attached in the
lower bottom and it is working well with out the foam. But my head is
almost touching the bottom of the wing. I may remove the front tube and
rework it at some future time.
Not being able to lean out the engine while flying to maintain a stable EGT
and good mileage.
>
>
>Anything else you'd like to share?
When building always look at everything to judge if that is the lightest
way to do it. And if it is not change it. For example, the joint strength
using a pop rivet is not dependent upon the center remaining in the rivet.
Punch them out and you can save weight. If you feather in tubes instead of
squashing them you can use shorter rivets with out sacrificing strength,
and trim off gusset plates that have corners sticking out that do nothing
but add weight, ETC, etc. Once you decide it is ready for cover, that
component weight is fixed forever, and you have to fly with it forever.
>
>
>Would you like this info shared in a master database matrix on the Kolb
>list?
I don't care
>
>
>If so, anonymously?
Yes, opinions differ
>
>
>THANKS A BUNCH !!!
>
>=====
>John & Lynn Richmond :-)
>
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wally Hofmann" <whofmann(at)eudoramail.com> |
| Subject: | Adriel Heisey Photos |
I'm sure many of you know of the exploits of Adriel Heisey flying his Kolb and
taking photos of Arizona ? Here is a nice link describing his work and new book:
http://www.azcentral.com:80/rep/books/articles/1008sonoran08.html
Wally Hofmann
Wickenburg, Arizona
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at http://www.eudoramail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Finally started to build |
After two weeks of cleaning parts and primming them (wish now I had went the
powder coat route)I started to actually build the FireStar today. I am
doing the horizantal stab first. Right off the bat a small problem. What
do you guys use to cut the .032 aluminum to make the gussets? I used
regular tin snips and thought they did a sloppy job. Took a lot of filing
before I was satisfied and also wasted a few gussets.
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wally Hofmann" <whofmann(at)eudoramail.com> |
| Subject: | national geographic kolb pics |
Ultimate pics taken from a Twin Star in the current issue of National Geographic
(October)
http://www.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0010/feature2/index.html
Wally Hofmann
Wickenburg, Arizona
Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account at http://www.eudoramail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finally started to build |
What
> do you guys use to cut the .032 aluminum to make the gussets?
> Ron Payne
Ron:
I used a band saw last time I built. Have also used hack
saw. Best is a sheet metal shear. You can cut all of them
at one time.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Kolb-List Digest Server
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 28 Msgs - 10/09/00 |
> yes it is possible to use the cb antenna with your new
narco
> nav/com------- if you want to buy another new nav/com in
the
> near future. or at least get it repaired after you burn
> out the finals.
Hey boyd...what are the finals and how do you know when you
burn them out?
Steve......Mk2
the transmit portion of the radio uses very small amounts
of power until you get to the final amplifier section. it
is much easier to control the small electrical curents in
the exciter section then amplify the signal for output to
the antenna. when the finals go bad (you let the smoke out
of them [all electronics work on smoke and when the smoke
gets out they quit working] ) it means that the
transistors that do the final amplification on the broadcast
signal dont work any more (no more smoke) you will know
when the smoke leaves when you cant talk to far away
stations anymore. where i am hangering my plane the
operators of the spray plane business were using a handheld
and they could communicate when the plane was within 1/8
mile maybe 1/4 mile but when they were further away
you could not hear them. when i checked the radio it had
an output so low that i did not have equipment sensitive
enough to measure it. the fact that you could here at
close range told me that the exciter was working but the
finals were dead.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Kolbers...
It's all I can bring myself to do to talk about this sorry event... so bear
with me...
Last Saturday evening, following an all-day running fight with my first
wife... and a really bad early afternoon moving "experience" with my
back-in-the-back-bedroom boomerang son and his child-like wife, I decided I
needed to get out of the house or run the risk of later answering to
homicide charges... pausing only to scrub the thick splattering of love-bugs
off the windshield off the 'ol Chevy truck with the hose and my wife's
foppish long haired cat, whom I caught carelessly napping on the hood,
(actually, the Scotch tuff pads were handy, but since the time he urinated
on the folded Stits just before I covered, I don't make a habit of cutting
him any slack... He's slowing down... don't think
I'd a caught him this time last year... ) I motored on out to the Airport
Manatee, just down the road to the south... had a load of concrete blocks
and some lumber... thinking I would jack up the ugly 'ol Kolb trailer and
level it, just to get what remains of my shattered mind off'n the events
there at the house... right up to this time, everything was pretty much
normal....
Well, whaddya think but 'ol Skip Staub, ex-Naval fighter pilot
extraordinaire, and his lovely bride Ann, happened to be down there fooling
around, and seeing I was somewhat distraught and not completely in control
of what remains of my already constrained faculties, commenced to helping me
sort out the leveling and positioning of the big ugly trailer...I suspect by
that time they had already sent one of the mouthbreathing locals standing
around there to phone the authorities while they kept me occupied... (later,
an official looking goon in a big pickup with some lights on top actually
did show up, but by then it was too late...) But I digress... Well anyway,
it was just a touch too much trouble leveling it with all that junk in 'er,
so we just unloaded it, the Kolb and the junk, all right there on the
ground behind it... At that point, while I was a'lyin up under the
trailer, trying real hard to ignore him, Skip kept finding things wrong with
what I laughingly refer to as my "airplane"... You know... the Kleenex
Komet.... the Kolb... It finally got on my already totally raw nerves so
bad I crawled out, snorted the fireants out of my honk, and we put it
together so he could get at it better and quit naggin' me... I reminded him
that had he not developed the unsanitary habit of feeding occasional muffler
mounting nuts and bolts to his wood-propped Rotax earlier this year, he
might have his own Kolb to fool with and would not feel this obsessive need
to point out all the shoddy workmanship in mine... I went back under the
trailer... Right up to this time, everything was still normal...
Next thing I know I hear somebody a' crankin on my Rotax... believe me
that'll send cold chills down a body's backside... I got out from under
just in time to see the Komet, shrouded in a cloud of Pennzoil... it was all
I could do to get over there and jump in before it motored off .... Managed
to get 'er turned around down by the end... thats where the accident
happened.... I leaned over trying to read the upside-down writing on the
ignition switch so I could shut that thing off... banged my head on
something or another... the noise got REAL big... I woke up, peeked over the
edge and that sucker was a' leavin the pattern... scared the fool outa me,
I don't mind sayin... At that point, there wasn't anything much normal in
any direction I could see...
Since I had it up there, and had got 'shed of most of the rest of the fire
ants by that time, thought I might just as well see how she did... It
stayed right side up, mostly.... made my eyes tear up a might though...
kinda breezy, but not so's to blow a man's stogie completely out of his
mouth...I would point out that it does tend to frazzle up the end of one
pretty bad, though... (took some gasoline to light that sucker later... but
it burned like a fuze once it was lit) Anyway, near as I could tell, it
was neutral in roll and pitch level at 6000 revs... (obviously a rigging
mistake) ... but needed just a tad of left rudder at same... was getting 65
to 70 indicated on my made in PyongYang steam guage... Seemed to stall
kinda straight ahead at about 34 indicated... happened real quick three or
four times before I realized what was a'happenin... kept gettin them levers
mixed up...
It was getting nigh 'onto sundown, so I followed all them red and blue
lights back over to the airport and blacked out....That too, was normal...
When I come to, the Komet was sittin behind the trailer shut-down with me in
it, and Skip was fannin me, and Miss Ann was cryin.... That's all I
remember... The officers were all real nice fellas... the paperwork didn't
take long at all....
My 'ol Army buddy Luther and me are plannin to slip back out there real
early Saturday mornin and see if'n we can re-create the circumstances...
just to see if'n it happens again... the Hobbs sez that 14 minutes went
somewheres last Saturday evenin... I just gotta know fer sure what it was
that happened.... mebbe I'll sit in it with my head up and look outside
when we start it this time...
Beauford
FF 076
14 minutes.... sigh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finally started to build |
If you or any of the others gets into a situation where you have many, or
awkward, parts to clean, a small sandblaster does a quick, easy, superior
job with little effort, or time. Use glass beads for light stuff, sand for
the heavier. When cutting the sheet metal with snips, one side will
curl up, the other will stay fairly straight. Make sure the "curly" side is
away from the part you are making. In really critical areas, cut 1/4"
outside the line on the 1st cut, then trim almost to the line on a 2nd cut,
then polish to the line. Polish the points off the corners. Looks better,
and much safer. In MY Opinion.................a bench mounted belt sander
with a 4" x 28" belt is an ABSOLUTE Necessity. That final polishing is
faster, smoother, easier than a file, and you won't be slashing your
knuckles when the file slips - and it will. I bought one early on, and I
don't think I'd want to even try building a plane without it. I use a Fine
grit belt for most work, switch to a medium for heavy cutting. Faster, and
smoother than a grinder. Coarse belt is just too violent. Back to
the snips..........I have the right and left aviation snips, and for
straight cuts, I use the large aluminum framed ones, with steel inserts.
You really get the leverage. Just for fun............the other day, I got
the tank for the dry sump oil system, and it has to mount fairly high, and
in front of the engine. No other practical place to put it, so I had to cut
a 10" diameter hole in my aluminum center gap cover. On this, you're
cutting to an INSIDE curve, and it's gonna be right out in public, where
everybody and their brother will be looking at it. Just about went wacko.
Chop, chop, hack, hack, cuss, swear, sweat..........oh mercy ! ! !
Started an inch inside the line with aviation snips, and worked both ways.
Being ambidextrous would be a plus. Worked down in a spiral, almost to the
line, then used a rounded file - carefully - to come to the line. Won't win
any prizes, but it won't embarrass me either. What Fun ! ! !
Wiser Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron or Mary Payne <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 1:45 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Finally started to build
>
> After two weeks of cleaning parts and primming them (wish now I had went
the
> powder coat route)I started to actually build the FireStar today. I am
> doing the horizantal stab first. Right off the bat a small problem. What
> do you guys use to cut the .032 aluminum to make the gussets? I used
> regular tin snips and thought they did a sloppy job. Took a lot of filing
> before I was satisfied and also wasted a few gussets.
> Ron Payne
> Gilbertsville, Ky.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: national geographic kolb pics |
Good Stuff, Wally. This is why we get hooked on flying. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Wally Hofmann <whofmann(at)eudoramail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 3:55 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: national geographic kolb pics
>
>
> Ultimate pics taken from a Twin Star in the current issue of National
Geographic (October)
>
> http://www.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0010/feature2/index.html
>
>
> Wally Hofmann
> Wickenburg, Arizona
>
>
> Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail
account at http://www.eudoramail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finally started to build |
I used a bandsaw with a metal blade. You can pick up a fair bandsaw that
will do a nice job for $200 or less.
Ken
Tucson
Building a Firestar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 1:45 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Finally started to build
>
> After two weeks of cleaning parts and primming them (wish now I had went
the
> powder coat route)I started to actually build the FireStar today. I am
> doing the horizantal stab first. Right off the bat a small problem. What
> do you guys use to cut the .032 aluminum to make the gussets? I used
> regular tin snips and thought they did a sloppy job. Took a lot of filing
> before I was satisfied and also wasted a few gussets.
> Ron Payne
> Gilbertsville, Ky.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
By Golly, Beauford, ya had me fooled. With all that folderol, I thought you
musta got a raise or something, to get you back in gear like that after all
this time. Then come to find out............all it was, was just that
nasty ole airplane your sweet little other 1/2 has been grumbling about all
this time. I bet ya just jumped in that thing outa pure terror, tryin' to
get away, and found out the sorry thing would fly after all. But
wait...............seems to me you sent me a picture of that thing one time,
and it actually looked pretty fair to these old eyes. Flew straight and
level, you say ?? Stalled clean at 34 mph ?? Well, old son, guess you
musta done somethin' right after all. Ya manage to wipe that silly smirk
offa your face yet ?? Congratulations ! ! !
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Beauford Tuton <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 5:59 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Accident
>
> Kolbers...
> It's all I can bring myself to do to talk about this sorry event... so
bear
> with me...
>
> Last Saturday evening, following an all-day running fight with my first
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NealMcCann(at)aol.com |
I think by drilling a screw with a washer attached to a chain might work.
The chain could be fastened around the handle on the jug or any other close
spot.
Anyone else have ideas that worked?
Neal
Lemont,Il
FSII w/503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finally started to build |
>Took a lot of filing
>before I was satisfied and also wasted a few gussets.
I don't know if this applies to you but a lot of guys try to file with
the family heirloom file. The one that has been handed down for
generations.Splurge and get a couple new files. You will be amazed how fast
a new one works. This little tidbit is often ignored in recommendations to
newbees. This also applies to tin snips, hack saw blades and drill bits.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Finally started to build |
One of the best tools for getting a good smooth edge on a straight
aluminum cut is a metal shear, and one of the cheapest places
to buy one is an office supply store, Office Depot has a 15" one for $50.
Of course they don't call it that, they call it a paper cutter, but if you
pick out one that is a little on the beefy side, it will work just dandy.
I paid $10 for a used one years ago, works fine on thin aluminum, .040
is about the limit, and that's kinda' marginal.
Since mine was only plastic, I screwed a couple angle iron flanges
along it's lower edges to beef it up, & just don't try and cut anything too
thick.
Also, when cutting out a strip longer than the blade, stop cutting just before
you get to the end of the blade and move the work farther in for a fresh cut,
or you will get a little bird's eye where the end of the blade cuts through.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, Tn
>
>After two weeks of cleaning parts and primming them (wish now I had went the
>powder coat route)I started to actually build the FireStar today. I am
>doing the horizantal stab first. Right off the bat a small problem. What
>do you guys use to cut the .032 aluminum to make the gussets? I used
>regular tin snips and thought they did a sloppy job. Took a lot of filing
>before I was satisfied and also wasted a few gussets.
>Ron Payne
>Gilbertsville, Ky.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finally started to build |
You ain't said poop, Woody. Truer words were never spoken. Good tools are
an absolute necessity. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Finally started to build
>
>
>
> >Took a lot of filing
> >before I was satisfied and also wasted a few gussets.
>
> I don't know if this applies to you but a lot of guys try to file with
> the family heirloom file. The one that has been handed down
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finally started to build |
That reminds me, Richard: A couple of years ago, I bought one of those
little $20 sheet metal brakes from A/C Spruce. Figured I could use it for
small pieces, etc. Nothing against ACS, but don't waste your money. For
anything heavier than aluminum foil, it's about useless. Like the man said
a bit ago, buy the good stuff. It pays. Wiser Again Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Finally started to build
>
> One of the best tools for getting a good smooth edge on a straight
> aluminum cut is a metal shear, and one of the cheapest places
> to buy one is an office supply store, Office Depot has a 15" one for $50.
> Of course they don't call it that, they call it a paper cutter, but if
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Confound it Beauford, you got my wife all upset, she thought you'd hurt
yourself!
Congratulations!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolbers...
>It's all I can bring myself to do to talk about this sorry event... so bear
>with me...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
"Christopher John Armstrong"
>Kolbers...
>It's all I can bring myself to do to talk about this sorry event... so bear
>with me...
>Beauford
>FF 076
>14 minutes.... sigh
Ha HA ha ha ahhahaahhahahahaha.
Your the onlyone in this list that can turn a first flight report into a
soap operaette. Congratulations.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Nothin's ever right ! ! ! Here, I've been bitching about the furnace heat
I'm stuck with - up to 2 days ago, and now the temps down into the '50's,
and the wind's screaming thru like a banshee, rocking this poor old trailer
almost off it's blocks. That's all well and good - you sure won't hear me
moan about the cooler temps, but I sure hope things quiet down for the
week-end. Be a shame to get blown, or rained out of Copperstate. Seems
strange to be hoping for nice weather here in the desert. It's ALWAYS nice
weather - mostly. John, I really hope you can make the flight there
from San Diego. It'd be great to see you again. Beauford - you take
it easy with that new toy, hear ?? Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com |
In a message dated 10/10/00 3:01:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Would you mind sharing the whats and whys of your planes for me ?
Please fill in the following, and send it back to me (off list if you
want).
What plane have you? Firestar KX probably the first one sold by Kolb in '92
Building or under construction?
done
Which engine? 447 Has way more power than I need and I'm 210 Lbs
Which prop?
Ivo 3 blade...60" I THINK!!
Which instruments?
ASI, EGT/tach combo, with probe mounted at the "Y"
...
Have you a BRS chute or similar?
Yes, mounted Under the fuselage in a little foam box I designed
What overall cost roughly?
$7000....in '92
Have you a trailer?
no
Anything else special?
tried coronado urethane latex 3 color paint job....unique., but should have
added hardner as paint is too tacky in hot weather
Why did you choose this aircraft? best wing fold feature of all UL, and
Homer believes in God
What do you like most about it? climb rate
and fact that it is a pusher and I can use yaw string
What do you like least about it?
that things can go through prop easily because
of the fact that it is a pusher
Anything else you'd like to share?
very safe record and easy to fly due to long fuselage and hi lift wing
Would you like this info shared in a master database matrix on the Kolb
list?
yes
If so, anonymously?
use name if you like
THANKS A BUNCH !!!
=====
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
"'Larry Bourne'"@matronics.com
Im keepin an eye on it. At first I thought there was no chance with the
winds and rain but the storm came through earlier than expected. I'll give
flight service a call this evening and get the lastest scoop. I'm thinking
even if I can't fly, I may bring my trailer anyway. Looking forward to
seeing all of you.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bourne [mailto:larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 10:18 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Weather
Nothin's ever right ! ! ! Here, I've been bitching about the furnace heat
I'm stuck with - up to 2 days ago, and now the temps down into the '50's,
and the wind's screaming thru like a banshee, rocking this poor old trailer
almost off it's blocks. That's all well and good - you sure won't hear me
moan about the cooler temps, but I sure hope things quiet down for the
week-end. Be a shame to get blown, or rained out of Copperstate. Seems
strange to be hoping for nice weather here in the desert. It's ALWAYS nice
weather - mostly. John, I really hope you can make the flight there
from San Diego. It'd be great to see you again. Beauford - you take
it easy with that new toy, hear ?? Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | "original" original Firestar |
Tom Kuffel from Whitefish Montana sent his un used original Firestar frame
cage to me and now as I rebuild I have some choices and am soliciting
comments regarding covering options. (Thank you Tom)
On the original there was a fairing on the end of the fuselage leading to
the propeller arc--I think t looks cool but does it fly better with out it?
My old frame had some changes so the fabric covering went half way up the
side like the FIrestarII--should I go all the way up again--is there any
advantages or disadvantages. I have even seen one Firestar with no
covering on the back end. Aerodynamically is it better to keep it open or
close it to the underside of the wing--I can make a case for either.
Perhaps someone out there has tried both ways and has a report.
Dale Seitzer, St. Paul MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert A. Haines" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
"Robert A. Haines"
I HATED cutting gussets. Your facing all your tubing, rivets, instructions
and you really want to start making the tail surfaces but can you? NO. You
first have to cut all these little triangles!! AAAAARGH!! (my best
Charlie Brown immitation)
I used an electric jig saw, did a horrible job but did it quickly. My
saving grace was my tabletop belt sander. You can straighten/debur/polish
all those suckers, I even used the top pulley to raduis out the notch on
horizontal stabilizer gusset. I wrote all this down with pictures included
in my web site: http://roberthaines.tripod.com. Sorry if it takes some
time to get all the pictures, there are several.
Hope I could be some help.
Robert Haines
St. Louis, MO
SlingShot
*****
After two weeks of cleaning parts and primming them (wish now I had went the
powder coat route)I started to actually build the FireStar today. I am
doing the horizantal stab first. Right off the bat a small problem. What
do you guys use to cut the .032 aluminum to make the gussets? I used
regular tin snips and thought they did a sloppy job. Took a lot of filing
before I was satisfied and also wasted a few gussets.
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky.
*****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Beauford you old coon dog. You scared the beejeebers out of me. I thought I
would have to go into mourning thinkin a Firefly had been hurt.
Woody
ps How come we all start sounding like back country hicks when we
answer Beaufords posts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
Bauford--
High winds prevented a flight to the EAA fly in at Evergreen Al this past
weekend -before I read your message -I was told--very reliable source--that
an UL pilot was doing --outside loops----knew it could not be u-as you were
in Gatorland--not Evergreen, Al.
Was getting ready to send you -old ballistic chute I have in
hangar-obviously u do not need it. Hang in there-I sent you a bunch of low
level aerial recon shots-being an old pro-hope you appreciate them. Some of
us will be at fly in in Thomasville, GA--North of Tallahassee this weekend.
Very good flyin- If you come up look for my red antique VW with our club
mascot-in front seat--(Dave Dodo) stop by and visit---FSU has a home game-no
motels will be available for 75 miles from Tallahassee.
Lindy
Level Plains, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Got the first horizontal stabilizer all drilled and clecoed together. I
took special care to hold all dimensions to the drawing. After drilling
all the holes, I re-checked the drawings and a mistake shows up. The
dimension for the side of the stabilizer that goes against the fuselage
tube is 30 inches. I took this to mean 30 inches from the forward end
to the back of the trailing edge. This is how I built it. On closer
inspection the 30 inch dimension is from the leading tip to the back of
the gusset that holds the trailing edge to the side tube, not the
trailing edge of the rear tube itself. First shot out of the box and I
screw up. I got ahold of Ray in Kolb tech support and after a long
discussion he found that the drawing is wrong. The 30 inch dimension
was intended to go to the rear edge of the trailing edge tube. My
mistake compensated for a mistake on the drawing and I built the thing
right. I hope this is a sign of things to come.
Ron Payne
FireStar II
Gilbertsville, Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jabiru <mark(at)jabiruaircraft.com> |
Kolbers ::::
Thanks for attending my presentation at the Kolb Fly In and asking great
questions.
We are currently running an engine special that can be seen at
www.jabiruaircraft.com. Our engines are able to replace the Rotax in
most Kolb applications. Ask Norm what he thinks of the Jabiru 2200 in
the King Kolbra !
Thanks ... Mark Sarkowsky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Jean (Las Vegas?) Nevada Air Show |
The November issue of Kit Planes lists an air show at Jean, Nevada, Oct 13th
to 15th. I will be in Las Vegas this week end and would like to hear more
about it. The "Calendar" in Kit Planes gives an E-mail address but their
server says they have no info at that site. I sure hope their computer guy
isn't one of their air controllers.
Are there any Kolbers in Las Vegas?
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 447, Ivo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)aol.com |
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Hello Fellow Listers:
As promised a Fuse Block Kit with a really good price and a pretty darn big
selection of sizes. You can find at
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page11.html or click here Terminal Town's
/Electrical Connector Fuse Block Kits or click the link next to my
signature and follow the link from our home page.
Got questions...The lights are always on and the doors are always open on our
site.
John @ Terminal Town
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III Door Hinges |
Ray,
I am building Gull doors for my Mark 3 and am done with the frames and ready
to put the Lexan in. The hinges I used were type MS 20001-5 extruded
hinge, this type is very heavy duty and should hold up well. Its width when
opened up flat is 1 and 3/4 inches. My alternative was the non extruded MS20
257-5 that is used on the flaps and ailerons. It is a full 2 inches wide
and is easier to form to a tube. I feel either would have worked fine, but I
went with the narrower stronger extruded stuff to minimize the width of my
center post, and because I did not have enough of the other type.
I am sure you could use even narrower hinge than these, after all, the
standard doors are hinged a lot like the rudder to verticle stabilizer
joint, and this area uses very narrow hinge.
I hope this helps.
Denny Rowe
-----Original Message-----
From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Date: Sunday, October 08, 2000 5:17 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III Door Hinges
>
>Fellow Listers,
>
>I have made a pattern of Plexiglas for the windshield (Might save
>screwing up the Lexan). I am trying to fit the doors using the 1 1/16th
>inch hinges that came with the kit. They appear to me to be too small to
>be able to rivet them correctly. The blueprints call for even smaller
>3/4th inch hinges and the angle of the windshield shown is different from
>any I have been able to achieve.
>
>I took a number of pictures at SNF but unfortunately I do not have and
>cannot find any close ups of these hinges. What size hinges have you
>used? Are these hinges big enough? I am considering using 2 inch
>hinges. Can anyone direct me to some close up pictures that will give me
>the necessary detail?
>
>L. Ray Baker
>Lake Butler, Fl
>Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jean (Las Vegas?) Nevada Air Show |
Duane
One of our club members-called warpman---actual name bob Moorehead moved
their about a month ago- He is in the Aviation maint/Repair business-Big
Commercial birds---do not have his new phone number --but his e-mail is
warpman877(at)cs.com.
He also is a ASC BFI--if anyone knows he does or can find out the details.
Your going to miss Thomasville?
Lindy
Level Plains, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Things to Come |
Watch yer tongue, Mister ! ! ! Murphy's Law is in full effect on these
projects. Boy, do I ever know. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron or Mary Payne <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 2:03 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Things to Come
>
>
> Got the first horizontal stabilizer all drilled and clecoed together. I
> took special care to hold all dimensions to the drawing. After drilling
> all the holes, I re-checked the drawings and a mistake shows up. The
> dimension for the side of the stabilizer that goes against the fuselage
> tube is 30 inches. I took this to mean 30 inches from the forward end
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jean (Las Vegas?) Nevada Air Show |
If you're gonna be in Vegas, you oughta give a thought to Copperstate.
Ain't all that far to Phoenix. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <MitchMnD(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2000 6:09 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Jean (Las Vegas?) Nevada Air Show
>
> The November issue of Kit Planes lists an air show at Jean, Nevada, Oct
13th
> to 15th. I will be in Las Vegas this week end and would like to hear more
> about it. The "Calendar" in Kit Planes gives an E-mail address but their
> server says they have no info at that site. I sure hope their computer guy
> isn't one of their air controllers.
>
> Are there any Kolbers in Las Vegas?
>
> Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 447, Ivo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 18 Amp Powersonic |
ear.navy.mil>
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> I just experienced a battery failure with my new 18 Amp Powersonic.
>Yesterday, I stopped by the airport and flipped on the "master" to find
>almost total darkness on everything. The battery had a grand total of 5 VDC
>indicating voltage (no, I did not leave my master on). I got out the
>battery charger and set it to 12VDC @ 15 AMPS for about 30 minutes or so
>then switched it to 12VDC @ 2 AMPS for several hours. At that time, I
>showed 12.2 VDC static on the EIS. An hour later, I showed 12 VDC static.
>I've been told that I toasted the battery when
>I first put the charger at 15 AMPS. Also, I should "NEVER" select more than
>2 AMPS at the charger. The battery already had a problem so, charging
>wasn't the main cause (that was the first time I've ever put a charger on
>the battery. My Key West charging system is putting out 14.2 VDC normally.
I'm not sure this is a valid deduction. By-in-large, vent-regulated,
sealed lead-acid, recombinant-gas batteries are quite tolerant of
high rate recharge.
Consider that "charging" reverses a chemical reaction by pushing electrons
into as system that was discharged by pulling electrons out. Starting
and engine can take hundreds of amps of current flow (albeit for seconds)
that causes a whole lot of molecules to change state as they give up
their available electrons. The battery is not a perfect device . . . it
has some internal resistance that adds to external resistances in the
system (like wire, contactors, bolted joints, etc) to reduce the amount
of energy available to crank the engine.
The VERY low internal resistance of RG batteries is what makes them
so powerful for their size. This same internal resistance has an
effect on recharging too . . . some of the energy that might otherwise
be used to trip some molecules to their charged state will warm the
battery up internally . . . resistors do one and one thing only with
energy that moves through them . . . warm up.
The admonition "never select more that 2 amps at the charger" argues
with how things work in the airplane (or any other vehicle). As soon
as the engine starts, the bus voltage goes to whatever the regulator is
set for . . . current flowing into the battery's chemistry is whatever
it is going to be at that bus voltage. If the battery is only partially
discharged due to normal cranking, the current goes up pretty high because
the battery's internal resistance is still quite low and it will readily
accept charging. If the battery is flat from a total discharge, connecting
it to a constant voltage like a running alternator may not produce much
inital charge . . . the battery's internal resistance is much higher
when it's completely discharge.
The internal resistance can do only one thing with the energy you're
trying to stuff back into the battery . . . get warm. This
is a transient condition . . As the battery begins to charge,
the resistance drops which improves on the energy conversion
efficiency. Internal heating during initial phases of charging
a totally flat battery can be detrimental to the cells in some
cases: Very small batteries (camcorder, cellphone, etc) may have
some initial charging limits due to their inherent higher internal
resistances and low mass. Batteries used to crank engines are pretty
hard to
warm up and much more tolerant of increased losses during rapid
recharge.
Consider the case where an engine has been hard to start and you've
used up most of the battery's capacity trying to get it going. When
you finally do get it started, the bus jumps to 14.2 (or wherever the
regulator is set) and recharging of the battery will begin . . . limited
only by internal resistance of the battery and the output rating of
your alternator . . . sometimes this current is well over 20 amps
even for a small battery.
The concern about battery chargers is how well their voltage is
regulated while a totally discharged battery is getting its chemistry
awake and ready to go to work. Unless the charger mentioned soared
really up there . . . like over 15-16 volts during initial phases
of recharge, I think it unlikely that the recharge scenario described
toasted the battery . . . the way to check is to put a voltmeter
on the battery and watch it for the first few minutes of rechaged.
Depending on voltage regulation built into the charger it MAY
go pretty high initially (like over 15 volts) but it should come
down in ten minutes or so as the battery beings stirring back to
life.
I think most RG batteries roll belly-up because they loose some of
the water from a cell. Remember, these batteries have very little
moisture in them . . . the fiberglas separators are only 80-90%
saturated when the battery is new. If the factory was having a bad-
battery-day and didn't get the cells wet enough, the battery may
be pretty fragile. Also, the cell might be compromised and liquid
may have been expelled causing pre-mature failure. The battery
in this story wasn't run down by leaving a load on it . . . it was
DOA for a routine start up. This suggests the battery had already
departed to where all good batteries go when they die . . . this
makes charger behavior irrelevant to the story.
It would be interesting to do a diagnosis on how this battery
failed. If you're not going to turn it back in for recycling
and/or warranty claim, I'd like to have it to disect.
As an interesting aside to this discussion, check out Bolder
TMF batteries and some of the things coming over the hill
at: http://www.boldertmf.com/news/news_details.asp?ID=25
These are VERY tiny cells with VERY low internal resistances.
If there was ever a seal lead-acid battery that might favor
being pampered, this has to be a good candidate. Yet they
are finding their way into some pretty heavy-duty applications.
They are not going to be beneficiaries of smart charging
systems. They'll get stuck on a constant voltage bus and the
recharge current will be what it will be . . .
I have seen a few battery sites caution about rapid recharge
of RG batteries . . . Hawker (Genesis, Oddysey, Cyclon battery
guys) doesn't caution the system designer to pamper these batteries
with itty-bitty chargers. In fact, there's a statement in
the engineering manual specifically allowing the battery to
be recharged at whatever rate it will accept on a constant
voltage bus. I think the cautions come from dealers and
distributors that don't understand their products (like
calling them "gel cells") . . . and may be looking for
ways to mitigate their warranty hassles . . . there's nothing
WRONG with soft recharging but it's not necessary either.
When in doubt . . . go to the engieering data for the brand
of battery you're working with and see what the manufacturer
says. Dealers are among the most unreliable sources of good
info on batteries.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce E Harrison <bharrison(at)juno.com> |
If any of you had trouble e-mailing the gentleman in SC with a MKIII kit
and a built Mark II, his phone # is 803-359-3886. Happy hunting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)aol.com |
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com, zenith-list(at)matronics.com,
rv-list(at)matronics.com.smithmini-list@matronics.com
Hello Listers:
Two new pages.
Click the link for our Home Page
Terminal Town or drag and drop the URLs shown.
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page104.html Terminal Town's
Electrical Connector High Amp Circuit Breakers
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page17.html
Terminal Town's
Electrical Connector High Amp Fuses
John @ Terminal Town
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Cutting Aluminum |
I take some classes at our local Community College. They have a metal break
in both the Jewelry Class room that is a 48 inch, and in the welding dept
they have a six foot. I spoke with the instructors in each about cutting
aluminum of various thickness and they said to go right ahead. The aircraft
dept has everything for building aircraft, and the instructor said that if
there was someone around I could go right ahead and work on my aircraft
parts. Couldn't ask for better people.
I am trying to get all my ducks in a row before actually getting the kit for
the Mark III Xtra.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Cutting |
Just got my computer so I am sure msgs going out to list. Will try not to be
a pain.
I have cut a lot of aluminum stock and had really the best results when
cutting tubing to use a standard table saw with carbide tipped blade. It
really requires very little deburring, and the cuts are perfect.
I would caution you however to use a face shield and close your shirt to the
top button. Aluminum chips smart.
I have cut angle stock and tubing, with sheet stock probably not thinner
than one eighth inch. I like shearing the thinner stock because it gives me
better edges with little or no problem edges.
Julian Warrem
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Cutting |
This is where a chop saw (compound miter saw) is PERFECT. Overkill...yes ,
but if you already have one for the workshop then I'll let you know that it
does a great job on all that aluminum tubing. Does leave a sharp edge
sometimes though...a couple of quick swirls with a little deburring tool
like the one with the little bent blade on the end that swivels is all it
takes...and the chop saw throws the little aluminum dust out the back.
Also in regards to using a table saw for cutting alum. I'll just ask this ,
"Have you ever seen what a table saw will do to a piece of wood when it
kicksback?" I've seen one throw a piece of wood through a hollow core wood
door (plywood face over cardboard core...but still stronger than your
skin...) I would have SERIOUS reservation about cutting alum. with it...I
can't imagine Norm Abram doing it on the "New Yankee aircraft factory"..
my $.02 worth...
Let's all be safe out there...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jgw300
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 2:27 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Aluminum Cutting
Just got my computer so I am sure msgs going out to list. Will try not to be
a pain.
I have cut a lot of aluminum stock and had really the best results when
cutting tubing to use a standard table saw with carbide tipped blade. It
really requires very little deburring, and the cuts are perfect.
I would caution you however to use a face shield and close your shirt to the
top button. Aluminum chips smart.
I have cut angle stock and tubing, with sheet stock probably not thinner
than one eighth inch. I like shearing the thinner stock because it gives me
better edges with little or no problem edges.
Julian Warrem
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Johann G Johannsson <johann(at)caa.is> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: KOLB database] |
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 22:16:51 +0000
From: Johann G Johannsson <johann(at)caa.is>
Subject: KOLB database
Would you mind sharing the whats and whys of your planes for me ?
Please fill in the following, and send it back to me (off list if you
want).
What plane have you?
Firestar II
Building or under construction?
Flying 50 hrs.
Which engine?
Rotax 503 DCDI
Which prop?
IVOPROP 3 blade
Which instruments?
Speed, Altimeter and EIS
Have you a BRS chute or similar?
BRS VLS 750
What overall cost roughly?
$20.000 (high taxes)
Have you a trailer?
Yes, enclosed and the best hangar.
Anything else special?
Why did you choose this aircraft?
When I saw a picture of a MARK III in 1993, I was hooked. Did not have
PPL, so I choose the Firestar II. Built one in 1994-5 and the present
flying in 1996-7.
What do you like most about it?
The easy handling and flying characeristics. Easy storing. Strong cage
gives a good security.
What do you like least about it?
Instrument panel too far away from pilots reach. (I am tall, 6 feet 1")
This is an easy fix, but have not had the time to make another panel.
Anything else you'd like to share?
New Kolb Company is a great support.
Would you like this info shared in a master database matrix on the Kolb
list?
YES
If so, anonymously?
Name info is OK
Johann Gestur Johannsson
Iceland.
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Oh no he's back! |
rv-list(at)matronics.com, zenith-list(at)matronics.com,
glasair-list(at)matronics.com
Hello Listers:
I am interested in talking with folks building airplanes and are close to or
into the wiring stage. If you are in a 50 mile radius of Seattle and wouldn't
mind a bit of company I would enjoy seeing your project and talking with
you...Not selling you anything...I am just trying to add to my knowledge
level.
Also I am sorry I didn't add this to my first E mails to the list. The John
at Terminal Town is the John from AAMR/AirCore. The person who was buying
AMMR messed it up and backed out of the deal. So here I am, glad to back!
I put up more pages today...one with bus bar predrlled stock...If my page
announcements are becoming a pain feel free to tell me to shut up.
Best regards,
John Caldwell @ Terminal Town
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
To John Richmond:
What plane have you?
Twinstar Kolb Mark 3
Building or under construction?
Have 136 hours at this time
Which engine?
Used a Rotax 582 for 105 hours with no
problems. Moved to Norfork, Arkansas
in an area wih lots of hills and few flat places,made
me nervous so have a 2200 Jabiru with 32 hours on
it now. Feel a bit better.
Which prop?
With the 582 I had a 3 blade wood CGS. 66"
With the Jabiru I have a Warp Drive,58"
Which instruments?
With the Jabiru I put in an EIS. Also have a ASI, Variometer
Gas gage, altimeter, and a yaw string. I use a hand held radio,ICom A22
and finally found after info from the list, Sigtronic earphones and intercom
that I can hear with. Have a compass, but use maps and Garmin 90.
Fartherest
I've flown in one day was 330 miles. Love that Garmin!
Have you a BRS chute or similar?
BRS 950
What overall cost roughly?
With the 582 in 1994, around $15000.
EIS added the same time as the Jabiru added just
a little over $9000 and sold the 582 too cheap, but
made Tim very happy for the deal he got.
Have you a trailer?
No. When in Kansas I rented a hangar at
a private strip. I retired, moved to Arkansas
and have my own grass strip and hangar. Dream
come true. My front yard is my strip, but when I mow
my yard, its 14 acres.
Anything else special?
I am going to install the steel landing gear as I
now have 5 bent gear. Met Geo 38 at TNK who had
7, made me feel better. I think he has the record unless
someone wants to fess up. I fly by my self most of the
time and when I get another 200 pounder in there, i let it
sink too much on the landing. Slow learner. Wife says
I'm not retarded, so there is hope.
Why did you choose the Aircraft?
It was a debate between the Rans S12 and theMark 3. Choose the
Mark 3 because I couldn't find a hanger at the time and thought I
was going to have to tow or trailer so liked the folding wings, which
they made look so easy in the video, with the covering off, i didn't
catch that until I tried to fold wings with the covering on and its a
bitch and you have to have arms like an Orangatang to put that pin
in the tail. I had talked to a Rans owner who said he had to remove the
wings if you had a full canopy. I was going to buy his until he told me
that. This was in 94. I have a private pilots license, but a GA plane was
out of the question for the putsy around flying I do and no flying fun. I
Did have a Weedhopper at one time. Adventures in the wind.
What do you like most about it?
It flys good. Climbs like the dickens and I can slow down to 45 miles an
hour and
just look out that wonderful view. I can take someone with me to share when
I
find someone, and thats more fun. I love taking young people on their
first flight
with that great view you get with the Kolb. If I would quit bending gear it
couldn't
be better, unless i had the Extra!
What do you like least about it?
Instrument panel too far away. Can't seem to
find a good seat. Hate the heel brakes, but wouldn't want
to be with out them. Need a place for my hand held radio, and
the Garmin 90.
Anything else you'd like to share?
I like the New Kolb Company and I wish I was
flying the Extra. My Jabiru would fit real nice
on there. I am going to try votex generaters I
have been reading about on the list. Might make it
easier on the gear.
Would you like this info shared in a master database matrix on
the Kolb list?
YES
If so, anonymously?
Name & address are okay
with me.
Dallas Shepherd
983 Sheid Road
Norfork, Arkansas
cen23954(at)centurytel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
Dear Dallas Shepherd,
I was standing by you at the Jabiru seminar. Did you check the opening
inside your oil filter base that has the spring to collect any metal debris
during the break-in period of your engine? What were your findings and did
it help your engine temperature?
To everyone else:
The Jabiru speaker was advocating a fixed prop, the Prince P-tip
specifically. Does anyone know much about it. They don't have a web-site.
From their ads, they claim their prop has automatic pitch adjustment. Does
it work, and if so, how does it work? I'll have a couple of years to decide
on my powerplant, but I am intrigued with the Jabiru engine. I understand
the pro's of a gearbox and a slower-turning larger prop, but the Jabiru has
so much upside, I hope this configuration will be feasible on the Xtra.
I just ordered kit #1 for the Kolb Mark IIIXtra yesterday. I am having it
powder coated in aero yellow. They gave me an eight week time frame before
I will go to the factory to pick it up since London is only an hour away.
No shipping charges, but sales tax, since I live in-state.
I am still working on my build-shop/hanger. I recently had a 33' I-beam
erected and welded to two vertical 7'5" I-beams. This will be the height of
my door opening. I plan to put 8-4 foot bifold doors on the opening. My
barn is 44' wide, so I can fold each set of two doors and push them down the
track, past the overall opening, and accordion and stack them out of the
way. From several of you Kolber's, I was advised to design construction
where I wouldn't have to fold the wings each time and I am already
appreciating that advice. Just planning and building the T-hanger is
enjoyable.
At the fly-in, Litespeed Aviation suggested a 4x12 table for building. Any
suggestions from anyone else on benches or tables. It was suggested to use
3-4x4 sheets of OSB board and place 2x4s on top of the joints so you could
work with the tubing off the table if more convenient. At least, that is
what I think they meant.
Thanks for any feedback.
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: decisions database? |
"Duncan McBride"
Fort Myers, Florida
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Richmond" <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 3:49 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: decisions database?
>
> Here I'm anguishing about what Kolb to get, and all of you have the
> information, experience, and answers I probably need!
>
> Would you mind sharing the whats and whys of your planes for me ?
> Please fill in the following, and send it back to me (off list if you
> want).
>
> What plane have you?
>
About to install a 912 on a Mark III
>
> Building or under construction?
>
?
>
> Which engine?
>
Rotax 912 - thought I could find a decent used one, but saved enough for a
new one before a used one came on the market
>
> Which prop?
>
Ivo three blade
>
> Which instruments?\
Grand Rapids 912 package, airspeed, altimeter and compass from Aircraft
Spruce
>
>
> Have you a BRS chute or similar?
BRS VLS, but after reading John Haucks letter I wish I'd gone with the fully
encolsed softpack. I'm still figuring out how I'm going to mount the VLS
>
>
> What overall cost roughly?
20k +-
>
>
> Have you a trailer?
>
Not yet. I'd like an enclosed one but it will depend on where I end up
keeping it. If at home I can get by with an open trailer. If I can base it
somewhere aggreable, I'll try to find or build an enclosed trailer I can
anchor at the field.
>
> Anything else special?
>
I tried to kep it mainly stock just to finish it in less than several years.
I modified the rudder to add an aerodynamic and static balance to make the
trim more effective, who knows?
>
> Why did you choose this aircraft?
>
Foldability, STOL, proven performance, track record, configuration - two
place side by side, designed around the Rotax 912 which may be a little
overpriced but is one reliable strong proven powerplant >
> What do you like most about it?
>
Configuration, visibility, foldability, price
>
> What do you like least about it?
>
It's a little fragile. You don't really want to leave it tied down outside
>
> Anything else you'd like to share?
>
>
The old Kold compane and the New Kold company have been good companies to
deal with. No problems fixing mistakes, good service.
> Would you like this info shared in a master database matrix on the Kolb
> list?
Sure
>
>
> If so, anonymously?
Whatever
>
>
> THANKS A BUNCH !!!
>
> =====
> John & Lynn Richmond :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Oil filter spring |
Clay:
I did check that spring behind the oil filter, found nothing. Oil temp
didn't change until the weather got cooler. Flew a half an hour this
morning with outside temp at 70 plus and my oil temp stayed at 200. Before
it was going above the recommended max of 212 and ranged up to 220 on a
climb. May need that cooler in the warmer temps.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
12 ft. sounds a little cramped to me, Clay. I built my table out of 4
sheets of 3/4" plywood, with 1 sheet split in 1/2 to make 2 4x4's, and
staggered the joints. Put it on a 2 x 4 frame with several cross pieces,
and 8 legs. Shimmed it level with cedar tapers from Home Depot. It was
Solid ! ! !, and I never felt it was too large.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 7:36 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Jabiru
>
> Dear Dallas Shepherd,
>
> I was standing by you at the Jabiru seminar. Did you check the opening
> inside your oil filter base that has the spring to collect any metal
debris
> during the break-in period of your engine? What were your findings and
did
> it help your engine temperature?
>
> To everyone else:
>
> The Jabiru speaker was advocating a fixed prop, the Prince P-tip
> specifically. Does anyone know much about it. They don't have a
web-site.
> >From their ads, they claim their prop has automatic pitch adjustment.
Does
> it work, and if so, how does it work? I'll have a couple of years to
decide
> on my powerplant, but I am intrigued with the Jabiru engine. I understand
> the pro's of a gearbox and a slower-turning larger prop, but the Jabiru
has
> so much upside, I hope this configuration will be feasible on the Xtra.
>
> I just ordered kit #1 for the Kolb Mark IIIXtra yesterday. I am having it
> powder coated in aero yellow. They gave me an eight week time frame
before
> I will go to the factory to pick it up since London is only an hour away.
> No shipping charges, but sales tax, since I live in-state.
>
> I am still working on my build-shop/hanger. I recently had a 33' I-beam
> erected and welded to two vertical 7'5" I-beams. This will be the height
of
> my door opening. I plan to put 8-4 foot bifold doors on the opening. My
> barn is 44' wide, so I can fold each set of two doors and push them down
the
> track, past the overall opening, and accordion and stack them out of the
> way. From several of you Kolber's, I was advised to design construction
> where I wouldn't have to fold the wings each time and I am already
> appreciating that advice. Just planning and building the T-hanger is
> enjoyable.
>
> At the fly-in, Litespeed Aviation suggested a 4x12 table for building.
Any
> suggestions from anyone else on benches or tables. It was suggested to
use
> 3-4x4 sheets of OSB board and place 2x4s on top of the joints so you could
> work with the tubing off the table if more convenient. At least, that is
> what I think they meant.
>
> Thanks for any feedback.
>
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Maybe I should also have said that this made a 4 x 16 ft table, 2 layers
thick. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru
>
> 12 ft. sounds a little cramped to me, Clay. I built my table out of 4
> sheets of 3/4" plywood, with 1 sheet split in 1/2 to make 2 4x4's, and
> staggered the joints. Put it on a 2 x 4 frame with several cross pieces,
> and 8 legs. Shimmed it level with cedar tapers from Home Depot. It was
> Solid ! ! !, and I never felt it was too large.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 7:36 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Jabiru
>
>
> >
> > At the fly-in, Litespeed Aviation suggested a 4x12 table for building.
> Any
> > suggestions from anyone else on benches or tables. It was suggested to
> use
> > 3-4x4 sheets of OSB board and place 2x4s on top of the joints so you
could
> > work with the tubing off the table if more convenient. At least, that
is
> > what I think they meant.
> >
> > Thanks for any feedback.
> >
> > Clay Stuart
> > Danville KY
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
I used two interior doors, used, cheap, hollow core.
Build a table and attach them on top, put shelves below and keep the
tubing, supplies, etc.
Put lag screws into the bottom of each table leg and you can run them in
and out to shim the table perfectly flat full length, the wings will come
out perfectly true.
Make little wooden blocks, drill a hole through the middle, and then use
phillips head sheet metal screws to hold the blocks in place to hold your
tubing in place while you attach the gussets and rivet them. Just screw
them to the door, when you get finished with a part, pull them up and move
them to the next spot, ignore the holes.
You will need a roll of masking paper when the time comes to paint your
bird, buy it now and cover the table over the area you are working every
time you start a new part. That way you are never working in yesterday's
metal filings, draw the part full size on the paper, rip it off and start
fresh every time you start a new part, makes you feel really professional!!!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>At the fly-in, Litespeed Aviation suggested a 4x12 table for building. Any
>suggestions from anyone else on benches or tables. It was suggested to use
>3-4x4 sheets of OSB board and place 2x4s on top of the joints so you could
>work with the tubing off the table if more convenient. At least, that is
>what I think they meant.
>
>Thanks for any feedback.
>
>Clay Stuart
>Danville KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | addition: building table |
I used two interior doors, used, cheap, hollow core.
Build a table and attach them on top, put shelves below and keep the
tubing, supplies, etc.
Forgot to add, the two doors are attached to the table so that they are end
to end, the table is 3' wide and 14' long.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>At the fly-in, Litespeed Aviation suggested a 4x12 table for building. Any
>suggestions from anyone else on benches or tables. It was suggested to use
>3-4x4 sheets of OSB board and place 2x4s on top of the joints so you could
>work with the tubing off the table if more convenient. At least, that is
>what I think they meant.
>
>Thanks for any feedback.
>
>Clay Stuart
>Danville KY
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Sorry folks, trying to get the bugs out of the new server, and it's becoming
a struggle. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru
>
> Maybe I should also have said that this made a 4 x 16 ft table, 2 layers
> thick. Lar.
>
> ----- Original Message >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rayfield, Don" <drayfiel(at)kcc.com> |
| Subject: | Aluminum Cutting |
My neighbor is a machinist at an aluminum facility and he works a lot on
their cutting equipment. Due to the nature of aluminum to "load " up in the
cutter wheels and then bind or kick back, they go to great pains to clamp
down the material they are cutting. They clamp both ends, even with a chop
saw. They do not even consider the use of a table saw because of the danger.
My $0.02 worth.I personally bought a nibbler at Oshkosh that works on the
end of a hand drill and it works great for straight lines and intricate
curves once you get used to it. It only wastes about 1/8 inch of material
and makes a smooth, flat,burr free cut. Can't remember the name of it right
now, but if anyone needs it, I can get it. Cost was about $90 at OSH.
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeremy Casey [mailto:jrcasey(at)mindspring.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 3:58 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Aluminum Cutting
This is where a chop saw (compound miter saw) is PERFECT. Overkill...yes ,
but if you already have one for the workshop then I'll let you know that it
does a great job on all that aluminum tubing. Does leave a sharp edge
sometimes though...a couple of quick swirls with a little deburring tool
like the one with the little bent blade on the end that swivels is all it
takes...and the chop saw throws the little aluminum dust out the back.
Also in regards to using a table saw for cutting alum. I'll just ask this ,
"Have you ever seen what a table saw will do to a piece of wood when it
kicksback?" I've seen one throw a piece of wood through a hollow core wood
door (plywood face over cardboard core...but still stronger than your
skin...) I would have SERIOUS reservation about cutting alum. with it...I
can't imagine Norm Abram doing it on the "New Yankee aircraft factory"..
my $.02 worth...
Let's all be safe out there...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)mindspring.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jgw300
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 2:27 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Aluminum Cutting
Just got my computer so I am sure msgs going out to list. Will try not to be
a pain.
I have cut a lot of aluminum stock and had really the best results when
cutting tubing to use a standard table saw with carbide tipped blade. It
really requires very little deburring, and the cuts are perfect.
I would caution you however to use a face shield and close your shirt to the
top button. Aluminum chips smart.
I have cut angle stock and tubing, with sheet stock probably not thinner
than one eighth inch. I like shearing the thinner stock because it gives me
better edges with little or no problem edges.
Julian Warrem
Eugene, Oregon
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged,
confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure
under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly
by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy.
Thank you.
==============================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Kolb building table |
There are two camps on this one. One group likes the big flat table,
others have done it successfully on two large sawhorses. I am in the
latter camp. I made a couple big sawhorses (normal heigth, but top pcs
were 6 feet long, made of some real straight 2x8 I had around awhile so it
was dry and straight) and built the wings and ailerons and flaps on these.
The exact height isn't important, and they don't even have to be the same.
The important thing is that when they are set in your work area, you site
across the top of one and see that that the top of the other one is
perfectly parallel to the first one. In other words, they describe a flat
plane, no twist. Doesn't mater if they are level, but a very sensitive
level may be the easiest tool to compare their angles with respect to each
other. If they are heavy enough, you are set. If not, You can hang bricks
under them to weigh them down, or epoxy or silicone the legs to the
concrete floor for stability. The really cool thing about two sawhorses
over a big table is that you can work on the bottom too. I found that it
was easier to put in the rivets on the bottom of the wing while sitting in
a legless beach folding chair, with all the tools around me on the floor.
For the only time in the process, the tools were always in reach. Both
wings turned out as perfect as I can detect through sight or aircraft
performance.
Whatever method you choose, before working each day you want to verify that
your table is still a very flat plane. I think the Kolb plans showed how
to do this with string and spacer blocks for the big work table, and the
sawhorses can be sited across, or a level used. To me, the big table
looked like a lot of work to build really flat, and would take some time to
get it right. The horses were easy and I still use them today. If you
have a big shop, the big table can be used for a lot of things besides wing
building, it might be worth the time to build it real nice and flat and
strong. Up to you...Either way you choose make sure it is big enough to
lay the completed flaps and ailerons behind the completed wings, so hinge
installation can be accomplished easiest. Check the plans for all the
dimensions, and add it up leaving 5/8" between surfaces. This will help
you at one of the most demanding parts of the process (the hinges).
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric on a Budget... a proposal |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> . . . . I want an IFR capable, all electric
>plane. The only architecture that has an automatic full scale backup uses
>the B&C SD-20 with their standby regulator that senses when the main bus
>voltage drops off due to a primary alternator failure and thereby gets
>activated. No thoughts, no pilot action, seamless transition, lots of money
>and weight. Overkill for my application. The architecture I am proposing
>does have many options that provide for three independent pathways to power
>the essential bus.
>Where did I end up on this issue? I am buying all the parts to "make it
>so." I have also sent a hard copy of this architecture to Bob Nuckolls
>asking for feedback. I still am a year or so away from completion so all is
>subject to change based on better information.
>> Anyway, here are my thoughts: what you are proposing should work, and it
>> looks like you have planned for most contingencies, but I *personally*
>> still have a problem with ANY of these multi-bus approaches...
simplicity. My
>> thinking is that any sort of electrical malfunction or failure is a
>> stressful event. It will undoubtedly happen at an inopportune time thus
>> adding to the stress. I have experienced enough stressful times when
>> flying . . .
"most contingencies?" . . . "three independent pathways?"
Guys . . . you're letting decades of "dark and stormy night"
stories played out in certified aircraft drive unfounded
fears and scenearios to the top of your architecture decisions.
Virtually every known reason for an electrical system malfunction
has been addressed in the variety of system architectures
we've illustrated over the years. Yes, things MIGHT break
but there is no reason for any failure of an electrical system
component to precipitate an electrical emergency. Please review
chapter 18 in our book. You guys are building the best airplanes
to have ever flown. Certified ships smoke a lot because they
are BUILT and MAINTAINED that way. Further, they feature components
overhaulable only to ORIGNAL configuation as designed in 1965.
Please do your best to use our experience in certified aviation
to evolve AWAY from their mistakes . . . not ACCOMODATE them.
It's not difficult. Before you start pushing things around on the
wiring diagrams, tell me of any single failure event with
any of our power distribution diagrams that creates a tense
situation in flight that has no simple resolution. If you have
good reason to depart from the published suggestions, then
we need to fix the drawings.
Let's do this like critical thinking scientists, not pilots
and mechanics educated and trained to government standards.
This isn't a "not invented here" protest rather an invitation
to participate in critical review of contemporary thinking
to advance the state of our art . . . Bottom line is, wire
your airplane any way you wish . . . but be aware that lots
of folks are listening in. I get a couple of wiring diagrams
a month from folks asking, "what's wrong with THIS way?"
If we don't have solid advice to give, let's fix the advice
before we create dozens of variations on a theme based on
nothing better than our distrust of aviation hardware
and a lack of understanding about how to fix it.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: building table |
Remember when you are building your table the job is to build an airplane.
You can spend a year researching and building the table for this one
project or build something quick cheap and temporary. Of course the list
knows I am some what crude and cheap. A tiny bit of skill and patience will
save more time than trying to build something perfectly accurate and super
heavy duty for this one major project. A lot of us work in a small garage
where a large permanent table will not really work out. I have built 4
Kolbs recently using just 2 sawhorses and a full sheet of plywood (good one
side). I can put it on the saw horses when I need a table.(Make the saw
horses high so you are not bending over to do your work. Mine are about 42
inches high) Draw your parts on the table with a sharpie marker and you can
be sure of identical parts. Another little tip,Cut the gussets out of
cardboard first to check size and fit then transfer it to metal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
I produced a Pin Router called a Duz-All made from Aluminum Angle, Bar and
six inch I Beam stock. Cutting of solid 6 inch bar stock was used for the
Router Mount, and was cut by Band Saw. Angle and bar stock were cut by a 10
inch Table Saw. The only thing I did not mention was that I used CRC spray
on the blades for lubrication and improved finish cuts. I also used CRC
spray on 100 and 120 grit emery paper on an Orbit Sander for cleaning flat
surfaces. I used a 10 inch disc sander on one of my own design stands for
sanding raw edges and cleaning angles.
I produced a bunch of Disc hubs that fit on 5/8 shafted electric motors.
With a little imagination you can produce a really nice disc sander.
I think I have about 30 hubs out in the shop, and some smaller signed discs.
If you can use one.....let me know. I enjoy helping people who are just
starting out, or who otherwise can't afford equipment. E-mail me, it is
going to cost you the expense of my postage, which you can pay after you get
it. Otherwise I could not tell you in advance, because I am not looking to
make any money from them.
This will not be OSHA approved equipment when you are thru, and you could
sustain injury when sanding if you do not use the proper safety equipment.
I've never seen anyone advertising this unit.
I sold my sanders with 1 hp electric motors, stand, and assortment of
Sanding Discs for $370. They were not profitable enough to keep
manufacturing.
Julian Warren,
Eugene, Oregon
Why pay for something you could get for free?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WILLIAM D BRADSHAW <PIPERJ5(at)shtc.net> |
| Subject: | Firestar First Flight |
Kolb-List Digest Server
My first flight report is going to be kinda boring after reading Beauford's,
but here goes.
A year and three months after the kit arrived my Firestar was ready to
fly.
On 9-17-00 after a through checking over by my dad and myself I taxied
out to the far side of the field in my front yard (1100 feet ) and opened
the
throttle. Everything got blurry for a few seconds, and then I was 20 feet in
the air !! Well it stayed right side up and nothing seemed to be falling off
so I went on. What a ride !! Flies great, not hands off but no stick or
rudder
pressure is noticeable. I have an EIS and air speed in the panel and a
GPS 12 (not mounted yet ). I used the Super Flite System 1 with 1.8 oz
Dacron. With the sliver coat, brakes,starter, battery & hot box it weighted
out empty at 360 lbs... I have the 503 with an IVO 2 blade prop. I am very
happy
with the plane and love the climb out. I would recommend the EIS and
starter
to everyone.
Danny Bradshaw
McBee, S.C.
BTW Last Saturday 10-07 at the Eaa chapter 3 flyin Darlington County (SC)
airport , I got to meet and have my picture made with Mr. Paul
Poberezny
founder of the Eaa . He took time to chat with everyone , really
nice guy.
No ultralights there, to windy. I flew the J-5.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar First Flight |
Congratulations. That first flight in a newly completed airplane is
memorable and I envy you.
Julian Warren
Eugene,Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "WILLIAM D BRADSHAW" <PIPERJ5(at)shtc.net>
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 8:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar First Flight
>
> My first flight report is going to be kinda boring after reading
Beauford's,
> but here goes.
> A year and three months after the kit arrived my Firestar was ready to
> fly.
> On 9-17-00 after a through checking over by my dad and myself I taxied
> out to the far side of the field in my front yard (1100 feet ) and opened
> the
> throttle. Everything got blurry for a few seconds, and then I was 20 feet
in
> the air !! Well it stayed right side up and nothing seemed to be falling
off
> so I went on. What a ride !! Flies great, not hands off but no stick or
> rudder
> pressure is noticeable. I have an EIS and air speed in the panel and a
> GPS 12 (not mounted yet ). I used the Super Flite System 1 with 1.8 oz
> Dacron. With the sliver coat, brakes,starter, battery & hot box it
weighted
> out empty at 360 lbs... I have the 503 with an IVO 2 blade prop. I am very
> happy
> with the plane and love the climb out. I would recommend the EIS and
> starter
> to everyone.
>
> Danny Bradshaw
> McBee, S.C.
>
>
> BTW Last Saturday 10-07 at the Eaa chapter 3 flyin Darlington County
(SC)
> airport , I got to meet and have my picture made with Mr. Paul
> Poberezny
> founder of the Eaa . He took time to chat with everyone ,
really
> nice guy.
> No ultralights there, to windy. I flew the J-5.
>
>
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ggleiter(at)minn.net |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Cutting |
Rayfield, Don wrote:
>
>
> My neighbor is a machinist at an aluminum facility and he works a lot on
> their cutting equipment. Due to the nature of aluminum to "load " up in the
> cutter wheels and then bind or kick back, they go to great pains to clamp
> down the material they are cutting. They clamp both ends, even with a chop
> saw. They do not even consider the use of a table saw because of the danger.
> My $0.02 worth.I personally bought a nibbler at Oshkosh that works on the
> end of a hand drill and it works great for straight lines and intricate
> curves once you get used to it. It only wastes about 1/8 inch of material
> and makes a smooth, flat,burr free cut. Can't remember the name of it right
> now, but if anyone needs it, I can get it. Cost was about $90 at OSH.
> do not archive
It is called the "Rodman Nibbler". Believe the cost is closer to $150,
including carrying case, extra cutting heads, and the two brackets to
hold nibbler and hand drill. There is also a cheaply made copy
available that costs almost the same price.
gil leiter
MAPLEWOOD, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb building table |
Group,
Put me in the saw hourse camp. I built a 4 X 8 table and two tall saw horses.
The table turned out to be bigger than I needed. Most of the work was on the
saw horses. Sometimes I was standing between the ribs to make riveting easier.
You can't do that with a table.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb building table |
Let me get in on this building table thing.. My Wife's flower shop is in
an old Ford dealer building ..service bay / airplane building shop is 60 ft
x 120 ft (eat your heart out Lar.) . My table was 4ft x 20ft , worked
really good , but I had a lot of room to spare. Saw horses might be better
for some..
Richard Harris MK3 912 SN233
Lewisville , Ar.
: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb building table
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb building table |
"Christopher John Armstrong"
I used the saw horses for the wings and would not do it any other way.
sitting on a wheeled stool I could zoom around under the wing with all the
tools in my lap, and riveting took much less time and was very comfortable
compared to bending out over a table trying to get to the main spar to rivet
the ribs on.
Just got my DRE 600 ANR headset, based on John Jung recommendation of DRE
being good equipment. Have not flown it yet but will on Monday in an
aircoupe. Might get some time in the Powersport Aviation Rotary powered
RV-6A, which is louder then a 503!
Topher
Firestar II
Mounting engine and instruments.
( and fixing landng gear. has toe in without the engine... will see what it
looks like with engine and pilot weight soon. For those who are putting the
gear together, dont mount the legs without engine and pilot weight and dont
use the clamp an angle iron to the side method as it doesn't work very well.
use a very stiff rod that fits right in the axle tubes to get better
alignment.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Halstead" <deanbo(at)calweb.com> |
A band saw works very well also. I have an inexpensive Craftsman 9" bandsaw
that is made for wood. There are no metal cutting blades for that
particular model and size but I decided to expend one blade just for cutting
aluminum. (Blades are only about $8.00 so it's no big loss)
I used one blade to cut all gussets and tubing for my Mark III. Once cut,
edges can be cleaned and straightened with a disk or belt sander and finally
polished with a fiber disk on a die grinder.
Wear ear protectors... The sound is painful and you'll think you died and
came back as a dentist.
Dean Halstead
Fair Oaks, CA
Mark III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
I am looking for a good design to put toe brakes on a Mark III Xtra. It is
just what I am used to.
I saw the gas tank that was placed in the space between the wings and that
looked promising. I would like to have the potential of at least four hours
flying time, and more if practical for cross country trips.
There was also transceivers spoken of as good bargains, and I did not save
message. Would like that info. I believe the individual said it was a 1
watt and he had communicated with another aircraft 150 miles distance. I am
not knowledgeable about radios, but that sound impressive. I have had
problems in certified aircraft bringing up towers much closer than that.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
Why pay for something you could get for free?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
There are no metal cutting blades for that
> particular model and size but I decided to expend one blade just for cutting
> aluminum.
> Dean Halstead
Dean and Kolbers:
I also have a Craftsman Band Saw. It is an "oldie" given to
me by one of our List members. I couldn't find anything to
fit it at the local Sears Store, but we have a saw shop in
Montgomery, Alabama, that specializes in saw sharpening and
replacement blades for band saws, among many other things.
I had them make up some blades for my band saw. Also when I
would break one, they would weld them back together for me,
at a price of course. :-) The band saw saved many hours of
cutting gussets, tubes, angle, or most any aluminum parts
that would fit under the guide.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
This building table thing has me a little concerned. Saw horse would seem
to be a good way, but I am more concerned about the total space I need. My
shop is 32x36, but it has other equipment in it also. How much space am I
going to have to clear away to build in.
Who is building in a cramped space, and how cramped! I want to build at
home, because I last worked in a hanger 14 miles away and that was a real
hassle. I spent many hours just driving to and from the site. This time I
would like to just walk out to the shop and work when the spirit hits me.
I am retired and have a few old flying buddies who enjoy hanger flying. Of
course they also have a lot of advise. I'm not complaining they are great
people and fun to have around. My 400 hour building project will probably
end up over 600 however.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Hello again:
> I had them make up some blades for my band saw.
That is what I said about band saw blades, but I should have
said:
"I had them made up some metal cutting blades for my band
saw."
Better proof before I punch the "send" button. :-)
john h
titus, al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | testing my message |
let me know if you recive this message
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
Looking for a mkII kit that someone lost intrested will buy cheap i dont
have much money to spend thanks. paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Building space. |
I'm building my FireStar II in a 24 by 24 shop. I haven't started the wings
yet but according to my messurments I should be OK. I also have a lot of
equipment such as band saw, radial sas. miter saw, etc. I will not be able
to put the wings on without taking it outside.
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 12:02 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Building space.
>
> This building table thing has me a little concerned. Saw horse would seem
> to be a good way, but I am more concerned about the total space I need.
My
> shop is 32x36, but it has other equipment in it also. How much space am I
> going to have to clear away to build in.
> Who is building in a cramped space, and how cramped! I want to build at
> home, because I last worked in a hanger 14 miles away and that was a real
> hassle. I spent many hours just driving to and from the site. This time
I
> would like to just walk out to the shop and work when the spirit hits me.
> I am retired and have a few old flying buddies who enjoy hanger flying.
Of
> course they also have a lot of advise. I'm not complaining they are great
> people and fun to have around. My 400 hour building project will probably
> end up over 600 however.
>
> Julian Warren
> Eugene, Oregon
>
>
> Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: testing my message |
Got your message fine. A lot of mine don't go through because I can rember
to turn off that HTML thing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Robinson" <kb8wlu(at)tir.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 12:49 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: testing my message
>
> let me know if you recive this message
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
Is the kolb mkII easy to build what tools are need to put this fine
aircraft together?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb Firestar value?? |
I'm trying to make an appointment with a guy who has a older Firestar, I'm
wondering if anyone could help in decieding what to offer him? About all I
know at this point is it was built from a kit about 10 years ago, single
seat, 5 gal gas tank. The engine is a Rotax 318 ?? I have not heard of this
one but I'm new to ultralights. Also the engine was rebuilt recently. Can
anyone give me any ideas of how much a plane like this goes for?
Thanks
Jerry in SD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Building space. |
I built in half of a two car garage, and it was plenty of room, more than
enough. Build the wings and tailfeathers first, and then hang them up out
of the way while you do the fuselage.
Richard Pike
MkIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, Tn
>
>This building table thing has me a little concerned. Saw horse would seem
>to be a good way, but I am more concerned about the total space I need. My
>shop is 32x36, but it has other equipment in it also. How much space am I
>going to have to clear away to build in.
>Who is building in a cramped space, and how cramped! I want to build at
>home, because I last worked in a hanger 14 miles away and that was a real
>hassle. I spent many hours just driving to and from the site. This time I
>would like to just walk out to the shop and work when the spirit hits me.
>I am retired and have a few old flying buddies who enjoy hanger flying. Of
>course they also have a lot of advise. I'm not complaining they are great
>people and fun to have around. My 400 hour building project will probably
>end up over 600 however.
>
>Julian Warren
>Eugene, Oregon
>
>
>Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: testing my message |
Only if you say "Please"
rp
>
>let me know if you recive this message
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Firestar value?? |
>
>I'm trying to make an appointment with a guy who has a older Firestar, I'm
>wondering if anyone could help in decieding what to offer him? About all I
>know at this point is it was built from a kit about 10 years ago, single
>seat, 5 gal gas tank.
We have a 1986-7 Firestar for sale with rotax 447, brs chute, starter,
about 300+
hrs on engine (2nd engine-had 377 but bad wrist pin bearings). All
instruments - priced at $6,500.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | tools and how easy |
Hey guys what tools are needed to build a mkII and is it easy to build?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Kolbers:
Have spent the day fooling around with the usual small stuff one messes with
breaking in an airplane...
The 447 wants to run hot... at 5800 got EGT's up around 1250 at times...
richened up the metering rod one notch... better for about 5 minutes level
at 5800, then number 1 began heating up again... both CHT and EGT went
high...460 and 1240 respectively... other cyl was a tad hot, but not as hot
as number 1....
Called it a bad deal, cut the juice and put it on the ground...
Question: what next? Got it propped to turn 6150 static... turns about 6450
level at WOT... that seems to be pretty much in the ball park, ain't it???
Should I go ahead and pull the metering rod another notch richer...?
Why only one cylinder afflicted with the major hots?
Over?
Beauford
Bewildered in Brandon...
(as much as I hated that Franklin, wish I still had the Stinson... never a
single overheat in 900 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building space. |
Julian:
Only "built" a Friefly... small... tempted, in the overwhelmong spirit of
one-uppsmanship, to tell you I did it in the 4x4 closet shared with the
water heater for dramatic impact, but I actually used an average 2 car
garage...
Have bandsaw (recommended with bi-metallic metal cutting blade) to make
short work of gussets and tubes... also a cheap Ryobi drill press...
(Invaluable for the tough holes)...
Strongly recommend a good (large) vise and a power disc/belt sander to dress
ends of cut stuff.
Used a 4x8 table on rollers with shelf below for "stuff"...Rollers will save
yer butt... you will need to frequently reconfigure your shop... double
particle board top... "jigged" out everything on top of table... screwed jig
blocks right into particle board... I urgently recommend that if you are at
least approaching "old-fart" status, that you build table top just short of
nipple high to avoid the inevitable back paralysis endemic to these
projects....(Only gin will save you once the seizure strikes...)
I wish you well, my Son...
Beauford of Brandon
Overheated FF-076
From: "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 1:02 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Building space.
>
> This building table thing has me a little concerned. Saw horse would seem
> to be a good way, but I am more concerned about the total space I need.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb building table |
>
>Let me get in on this building table thing.. My Wife's flower shop is in
>an old Ford dealer building ..service bay / airplane building shop is 60 ft
>x 120 ft (eat your heart out Lar.) . My table was 4ft x 20ft , worked
>really good
I don't mean to complain, but "Down South", the year before last - 1998,
it got so hot that the air-conditioning in the shop would just "barely"
pull the temperature down to 78 degrees and I had to turn on the ceiling
fans almost every day that month!
In fact the cable TV would go out every other week, just like clockwork,
usually right in the middle of a "Sprit of St. Louis" ,or some such, and I
would have to stop what I'm doing, walk 500 yards down to the house to see
if Jimmy Stuart even made it to Paris or not - if you know what I mean! I
could only stand so much of this at a time, like "Beauford" says so
eloquently, "A man has to know his limits". Enthusiasm is the illusion that
occurs to the "naive".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Engine overheating (again) |
Beauford et al, I have always had heat problems with my 447. Raised the
needle one notch and increased the main jet by one size. It still climbs up
to the redline when I cut the throttle for a descent. All of the engine gurus
claim it should run cool just as it came from the factory. My engine
apparently is not aware of it's responsibility to do so. I always have one
eye on the EGT on the way down. I must say that it is both cylinders on mine.
It may be due to the fact that I had to trim the air deflector on the
underside of the shroud to make it fit. Those things are a little on the
crude side. It may be worth a look on your part. My 503's never overheated!
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FireFly SN 007, 447, Ivo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
>
>At the fly-in, Litespeed Aviation suggested a 4x12 table for building. Any
>suggestions from anyone else on benches or tables. It was suggested to use
>3-4x4 sheets of OSB board and place 2x4s on top of the joints so you could
>work with the tubing off the table if more convenient. At least, that is
>what I think they meant.
>
>Thanks for any feedback.
>
>Clay Stuart
>Danville KY
>
>
I built my wings on a vertical wall. I attached a plate to the overhead
truss in my shop and then used two by fours to make an open wall. I used
lag screws with washers to attach some short horizontal pieces to a couple
of the studs to support the main spare tube. I used a water level to level
the tube and two plumb bobs to align the bottom surface of the wing and a
third plumb bob to ensure the ribs are perpendicular to the main spare
axis. Other supports are screwed to the studs to hold the trailing edge at
the correct position. You can build the wing in space 5 feet wide and as
long as the wing.
The major advantage of this approach is that you can drill the holes and
pop rivet on the bottom and top side of the wing while standing and
sitting. For an old duffer like me not having to bend over is a plus.
Also you can build the wing so that the bottom surface will be flat within
1/8 to 1/16 of and inch.
I used lag screws to attach the studs to the plates. The studs were
numbered, and so when I was done I disassembled the wall and slipped it up
on top of the truss so that I can use it again for the next project.
I temporarily stored all of the aluminum tubing in a ten foot long six inch
PVC drain pipe that was tied just below the shop truss just high enough so
I would not hit my head but low enough so that I could pull out the tube
size I wanted. My shop is small so the PVC end that you pull it out from
should be pointed at the door. That gave me the room I needed to get it out.
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
What size is your main jet. Since you are getting high head temps, I
believe it would be worth your time to install a larger main jet.
>
>Kolbers:
>Have spent the day fooling around with the usual small stuff one messes with
>breaking in an airplane...
>The 447 wants to run hot... at 5800 got EGT's up around 1250 at times...
>richened up the metering rod one notch... better for about 5 minutes level
>at 5800, then number 1 began heating up again... both CHT and EGT went
>high...460 and 1240 respectively... other cyl was a tad hot, but not as hot
>as number 1....
>Called it a bad deal, cut the juice and put it on the ground...
>Question: what next? Got it propped to turn 6150 static... turns about 6450
>level at WOT... that seems to be pretty much in the ball park, ain't it???
>Should I go ahead and pull the metering rod another notch richer...?
>Why only one cylinder afflicted with the major hots?
>Over?
>Beauford
>Bewildered in Brandon...
>(as much as I hated that Franklin, wish I still had the Stinson... never a
>single overheat in 900 hrs)
>
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
If one cylinder got way hotter than the other, pull the exhaust manifold at
look at it, make sure it is not burned/seized/scored.
Will it get hot running tied down on the ground? If it is a mechanical
problem such as an air leak or a problem with airflow, then it ought to get
hot wether you are in flight or tied down. If you tie it down and run it up
and it begins to get hot, try pulling the choke on. That will give it a
little extra fuel, then if the temps go down to normal and the engine does
not drop off in RPM's, you know it is too lean. If the temps go down and
the RPM falls way off, then it is probably not too lean, possibly your
gauges are reading hot, check the appearance of the spark plugs.
My 5 year old CPS book (out of date?) shows the single carb 447 to use a
165 main jet, a 2.70 Needle Jet, and a 15K2 Jet Needle.
If it gets too hot at full throttle, but cools down and loses no RPM's when
you add a little choke, go to a bigger main jet.
If the engine runs at normal temps at full throttle and then gets hot below
6,000 RPM, 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, your main jet is OK, keep raising the Jet
Needle in the clip until it cools, if it won't get cooler, then you need to
go to the next bigger Needle Jet.
If you decide that you need a different Jet Needle, (probably not, last
resort) the Bing needle codes are interpreted thusly:
The first number on the needle will usually be from one to 15. The higher
the number, the richer it is ABOVE 1/2 throttle.
Next comes a letter, the higher the letter, the richer it is BELOW 1/2
throttle.
If you are currently using a 15K2, then you can't hardly get a richer
needle for 5800 RPM, you have to go to a bigger Needle Jet.
If it will not get hot on the ground but only in the air, it is load
related, verify that the tach is reading correct, because that determines
if the prop load is correct, and the prop load affects temperatures.
Errata: If the wires to the EGT short together, the gauge will read very high.
If you have any doubts on the Whys and Hows of jetting, check out
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg11.htm
Sorry for the length of this, but you're a treasure Beauford, we need to
take good care of you...
Keep us posted.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolbers:
>Have spent the day fooling around with the usual small stuff one messes with
>breaking in an airplane...
>The 447 wants to run hot... at 5800 got EGT's up around 1250 at times...
>richened up the metering rod one notch... better for about 5 minutes level
>at 5800, then number 1 began heating up again... both CHT and EGT went
>high...460 and 1240 respectively... other cyl was a tad hot, but not as hot
>as number 1....
>Called it a bad deal, cut the juice and put it on the ground...
>Question: what next? Got it propped to turn 6150 static... turns about 6450
>level at WOT... that seems to be pretty much in the ball park, ain't it???
>Should I go ahead and pull the metering rod another notch richer...?
>Why only one cylinder afflicted with the major hots?
>Over?
>Beauford
>Bewildered in Brandon...
>(as much as I hated that Franklin, wish I still had the Stinson... never a
>single overheat in 900 hrs)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Mark 3 build report |
Hellow everyone,
Here is an update on the basement goings on at the Rowe- house.
Linda and I drove straight home last Sunday night after the race in
Charlotte, it took 8.5 hours to get there, and 12.5 to get home. Crawled
into my mothers place just in time to get Jeremiah home for the school bus
monday morning. Monday was a wash.
Since than, we have cut one rear enclosure piece of lexan that fits, and one
that doesn't. I have enough of the stuff left for one more side piece, and
the rear top piece so I have to get those two parts right. No more mistakes.
I can't wait to get some photos of my enclosure off to you folks, it is
pretty different and I want to here the lists opinions of it. Otherwise the
Gull doors and the side gap area is pretty much the same as Duanes and Lars
design. It looks awfully streamlined and I am hopefull the bird will be a
little quicker than average.
I mounted the wingtip strobes and routed the wire through the main spar
using a garden hose to pull it through. By riveting a P-clamp at both ends
of the spar, I have prevented the strobe wires from chaffing on the ends of
the tube. The wires will exit the wings at the universal joint through the
fabric. The light fixtures have been removed from the wingtips and a 1/4"
bolt inserted through the wire holes to hang the wing by during painting, an
inspection hole in the bottom fabric will allow me to butt splice the
strobes after covering.
I finally added the tip rib reinforcement angles today so the wings are just
about ready to close up. We belt sanded the corners of the tailfeather
hinges today, labled them with a marker and made drawings detailing where
all the control hinges belong and which direction they should be installed.
Next we have to stamp them with their ID # and pull the pins out so we can
anodize them and drill for cotter pins. I have to locate some tiny
stainless steel cotter pins for this.
Next up we will remove the ailerons and flaps and stamp and detail those
hinges.
Seems like time just flys when you get to working at the small details.
Hey, thanks to everyone on the advise for patching my Loehles prop, Linda
finally got sick of it sitting on the kitchen counter and fixed it herself.
She used the baking soda- super glue method and it turned out great, now we
only need to seal it and balance. I have been so wrapped up in building the
past couple weeks that I havn't missed flying.
Later,
Denny
Mark 3 classic in Leechburg PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Building space. |
>
>Who is building in a cramped space, and how cramped!
I did a Twinstar in my basement. The fuselage was built in an area 35 ft
long and about 6 wide. Had to fold one half of the tail to walk into the area.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
>I used one blade to cut all gussets and tubing for my Mark III.
What kind of gussets are you cutting that needs a band saw? I had no
problem doing mine with cheap snips.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Is the kolb mkII easy to build what tools are need to put this fine
>aircraft together?
A real man can do it with a drill, pop riveter, a few hand tools, a
couple saw horses and a sheet of plywood. Anything else is just a luxury to
afford as you see fit. Don't listen to Beauford. He thinks having a cat to
kick around is an essential tool in building.
Aw what the hell get a cat too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Julian: I'd sure like to have one of those hubs/assemblies. Let me
know how much it is, and I'll send it in advance if you like. How are you
coming on your VW engine research ?? I now have all the electronics, etc.,
for mine, and it should be running in a few weeks. I'll let you know how it
works out. Just got in from Copperstate. Good Show ! ! ! Lot's of
Kolbers. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net>
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 5:30 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Aluminum
>
> I produced a Pin Router called a Duz-All made from Aluminum Angle, Bar and
> six inch I Beam stock. Cutting of solid 6 inch bar stock was used for
the
> Router Mount, and was cut by Band Saw. Angle and bar stock were cut by a
10
> inch Table Saw. The only thing I did not mention was that I used CRC
spray
> on the blades for lubrication and improved finish cuts. I also used CRC
> spray on 100 and 120 grit emery paper on an Orbit Sander for cleaning flat
> surfaces. I used a 10 inch disc sander on one of my own design stands for
> sanding raw edges and cleaning angles.
> I produced a bunch of Disc hubs that fit on 5/8 shafted electric motors.
> With a little imagination you can produce a really nice disc sander.
> I think I have about 30 hubs out in the shop, and some smaller signed
discs.
> If you can use one.....let me know. I enjoy helping people who are just
> starting out, or who otherwise can't afford equipment. E-mail me, it is
> going to cost you the expense of my postage, which you can pay after you
get
> it. Otherwise I could not tell you in advance, because I am not looking
to
> make any money from them.
> This will not be OSHA approved equipment when you are thru, and you could
> sustain injury when sanding if you do not use the proper safety equipment.
> I've never seen anyone advertising this unit.
> I sold my sanders with 1 hp electric motors, stand, and assortment of
> Sanding Discs for $370. They were not profitable enough to keep
> manufacturing.
>
> Julian Warren,
> Eugene, Oregon
>
> Why pay for something you could get for free?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar First Flight |
No 1st flight is ever boring, Dan. Congratulations. Don't pay any
attention to Beauford, he gets that way. Just wait'll you hear the
hoo-raw-ing, and screaming when Vamoose flies.................and she
will...........in spite of you nay-sayers of little faith from Copperstate.
Ha ! ! ! BIG Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "WILLIAM D BRADSHAW" <PIPERJ5(at)shtc.net>
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 8:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar First Flight
>
> My first flight report is going to be kinda boring after reading
Beauford's,
> but here goes.
> A year and three months after the kit arrived my Firestar was ready to
> fly.
> On 9-17-00 after a through checking over by my dad and myself I taxied
> out to the far side of the field in my front yard (1100 feet ) and opened
> the
> throttle. Everything got blurry for a few seconds, and then I was 20 feet
in
> the air !! Well it stayed right side up and nothing seemed to be falling
off
> so I went on. What a ride !! Flies great, not hands off but no stick or
> rudder
> pressure is noticeable. I have an EIS and air speed in the panel and a
> GPS 12 (not mounted yet ). I used the Super Flite System 1 with 1.8 oz
> Dacron. With the sliver coat, brakes,starter, battery & hot box it
weighted
> out empty at 360 lbs... I have the 503 with an IVO 2 blade prop. I am very
> happy
> with the plane and love the climb out. I would recommend the EIS and
> starter
> to everyone.
>
> Danny Bradshaw
> McBee, S.C.
>
>
> BTW Last Saturday 10-07 at the Eaa chapter 3 flyin Darlington County
(SC)
> airport , I got to meet and have my picture made with Mr. Paul
> Poberezny
> founder of the Eaa . He took time to chat with everyone ,
really
> nice guy.
> No ultralights there, to windy. I flew the J-5.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Vortex generaters |
Thanks Rick: I have the print out on the vortex generaters.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb building table |
What's that old song say ?? Rub it in, rub it in................! ! !
Those of you with lots of room are very fortunate, but ol' Lar got his day
of fame when some people from the EAA group came by to take some pics of my
work area with the wings hanging from the ceiling. They couldn't believe
someone built ( most of ) a plane in a 7' x 40' area. So there.
Talented Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "R. Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb building table
bay / airplane building shop is 60 ft
> x 120 ft (eat your heart out Lar.) . My table was 4ft x 20ft , worked
> really good , but I had a lot of room to spare. Saw >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Building space. |
Yah, Shore, ol' son............but have you ever tried AquaVit ??
Guaranteed to cure the flying heebie-jeebies, and other assorted & strange
ailments. Possibly a leetle sniff of MEK for dessert ??
Scandahoovian Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
> least approaching "old-fart" status, that you build table top just short
of
> nipple high to avoid the inevitable back paralysis endemic to these
> projects....
(Only gin will save you once the seizure strikes...)
> I wish you well, my Son...
> Beauford of Brandon
> Overheated FF-076
> From: "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 1:02 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Building space.
>
>
> >
> > This building table thing has me a little concerned. Saw horse would
seem
> > to be a good way, but I am more concerned about the total space I need.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Halstead" <deanbo(at)calweb.com> |
I'd sell you mine but since it is such a "Fine" aircraft, you would have to
pay me for what I put in to it. I don't have a lot of cash either but if
you think you can walk in and get one of these for a song, you better look
for something with a little less quality.
By the sound of your offer, you don't qualify as a buyer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
OK, OK, I know the Copperstate gang is busting at the seams, waiting
forthis. It were a Jolly Good Show, folks, and highly enjoyable. Several
of us Kolbers - in uniform, no less - and a few friends and wannabes. And 1
( one ) Kolb-er out of uniform. How could you do this to us, Wally ?? The
only planes ( that count ) that showed up were John Wood's FireStar from San
Diego, ( and John, of course ) and "Larry from Phoenix," with his FireStar.
Unfortunately, that Larry isn't on the List. Unfortunately, this one is.
Interestingly, both FireStars are all yellow, with polished boom tubes.
Great Minds..........?? The great thing was the inspiration; now I'm all
hyped - again - and hot to go on Vamoose. How many times have I said that
?? I'm also pleased to report that Tim Gherkin followed thru on his promise
to supply the troops with soda pop. It was well appreciated. Now, I know
Tim, and John, are going to be deeply disappointed,
but..........this..........is...........all...........I'm..........going....
.......to............say............! ! ! Restrained Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
I seem to be able to answer mail to the List with the new computer, but when
I try a new message, Matronics kicks it back as containing HTML. I don't
know how to turn it off ( ?? ) and msn tech was no help. Help ! ! !
Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
As an add-on to this, my new e-mail address is larrybiglar(at)msn.com . If I
can figure out how to send to everyone in my address book at once, I'll do a
mass mailing. ( ?? ) I'm going to keep earthlink till the end of the
month, then let it expire. Couldn't let msn keep all of that good money,
now could I ?? Thrifty Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 10:38 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Help
>
> I seem to be able to answer mail to the List with the new computer, but
when
> I try a new message, Matronics kicks it back as containing HTML. I don't
> know how to turn it off ( ?? ) and msn tech was no help. Help ! ! !
> Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
On mine you go to "new mail" then click on "format" You will then see a box
with a dot on "rich text". Click on "plain text" and that will disable HTML
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 12:38 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Help
>
> I seem to be able to answer mail to the List with the new computer, but
when
> I try a new message, Matronics kicks it back as containing HTML. I don't
> know how to turn it off ( ?? ) and msn tech was no help. Help ! ! !
> Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: Building space. |
larrybiglar wrote:
>
>
> Yah, Shore, ol' son............but have you ever tried AquaVit ??
> Guaranteed to cure the flying heebie-jeebies, and other assorted & strange
> ailments. Possibly a leetle sniff of MEK for dessert ??
> Scandahoovian Lar.
akevitt (correct norwegian spelling) is an old good-for-all remedy that
has kept the intestines of the people in my country from freezing solid
for centuries. the best brands are shipped by ship over the ekvator and
back in barrels, thus maturing and developing the qualities it's claimed
to have.
one bottle of this, and ypu won't be concerned of buliding table height,
stiff backs ore anything else since you'll be able to build the wing
right on the floor which is the elevation you're most likely will be
occupying for the next couple of days.
mixing akevitt with MEK ?????
may our ancient spirits and Odin and Tor forbid !!!!!!!
ole in Norway
ps Akevitt makes a good anti carb ice additive to, although your engine
may sound a bit strange while consuming it !!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | anyone have a unfinished kit that want to sell |
Need a kit cheap cheap anyone have a unfinished kit they want to sell?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | anyone have a unfinished kit that want to sell |
I've seen some ads for Fisher I think that said "these birds go cheap -
cheap".
They were referring to one of their toothpick (wood) type kits.
You do see some wooden ul's go cheap ... but exceedingly unusual for a Kolb.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Robinson
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 5:31 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: anyone have a unfinished kit that want to sell
Need a kit cheap cheap anyone have a unfinished kit they want to sell?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PFI" <redhill(at)rose.net> |
"Kolb-List Digest Server"
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 43 Msgs - 10/14/00 |
Larry, you didn't say which browser you are using. If it is Microsoft outlook
express, then click on "tools" then "options" then "send" and select plain text
over the Html text.
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Help
I seem to be able to answer mail to the List with the new computer, but when
I try a new message, Matronics kicks it back as containing HTML. I don't
know how to turn it off ( ?? ) and msn tech was no help. Help ! ! !
Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
Got it, Thanks. Now, I have to re-subscribe to Matronics with the new name.
Never thought of that. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Help
>
> On mine you go to "new mail" then click on "format" You will then see a
box
> with a dot on "rich text". Click on "plain text" and that will disable
HTML
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
> To: "Kolb"
> Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 12:38 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Help
>
>
>
> >
> > I seem to be able to answer mail to the List with the new computer, but
> when
> > I try a new message, Matronics kicks it back as containing HTML. I
don't
> > know how to turn it off ( ?? ) and msn tech was no help. Help ! ! !
> > Lar.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Brother Pike:
Great explanation... sure appreciate it...
I'll get into this thing and take a look... gonna strap it to the back of
the pickup and see what happens... Next course of action is probably going
to be backing the metering rod out one more notch... am also going ahead to
order next size larger jet...
And also, thanks to alll you other guys who offered advice, too... will let
you know what happens...
May be a week or three before I get to it... gotta go back in to work...
Thanks again to all...
Regards,
Beauford
FF076
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 11:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Heat
>
> If one cylinder got way hotter than the other, pull the exhaust manifold
at
> look at it, make sure it is not burned/seized/scored.
> Will it get hot running tied down on the ground? If it is a mechanical
> problem such as an air leak or a problem with airflow, then it ought to
get
> hot wether you are in flight or tied down. If you tie it down and run >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thumb" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net> |
Larry you have to go up and click on tools. then go down to internet
options,then click on connections,go down that page and change it fromHTML
to plain text and you should be in business. Any that works with mine.
Bill Futrell
Garden City Mich MK111- Extra
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 10:38 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Help
>
> I seem to be able to answer mail to the List with the new computer, but
when
> I try a new message, Matronics kicks it back as containing HTML. I don't
> know how to turn it off ( ?? ) and msn tech was no help. Help ! ! !
> Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Firestar value?? |
Jerry,
You really need to know more about it to put a value on it. But I will get you
in the ballpark. The engine is probably a 377 Rotax. The cheapest one, flying,
that I have heard about sold for $4,000. If it is really good looking, it
could get $7,500 or $9,000 for one that won an award several years ago. That
is a big range but here is what makes the difference: If it is flyable, $4000.
If it is well maintained and needs no work and looks respectable, $6,500. If
is looks sharp, too, $7,500. And to be worth more than that it must be show
quality. The other things to consider are the age and hours on the engine and
if it has a chute and how current the chute is. Also find out who rebuilt the
engine and why.
John Jung
Flyul01(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I'm trying to make an appointment with a guy who has a older Firestar, I'm
> wondering if anyone could help in decieding what to offer him?
> snip....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine overheating (again) |
Beauford,
Here is something that I learned recently (since I installed an EIS) that may
help. The pitch of the prop will make a BIG difference in EGT's. If I allow my
static RPM to vary from 6,000, to 6,500, my EGT's will go from 1,000 to over
1,200, with no other changes. My solution, and what I recommend, is to change
the pitch to control the EGT's, and run stock jetting for your altitude. If you
have to go below 6,000 static, then you probably have an intake leak, and it is
probably at the pulse line.
You might as well eliminate a pulse line leak as a problem before you fly
again. Get good black gas line, of fuel injection line and use those stainless
connectors with worm gears in them. Make sure that they are tight enough that
you cannot rotate the connections and they will not leak.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Lancaster Seminar Date Set |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
The Lancaster weekend seminar date has been set at Nov 18/19, 2000.
Facilities arrangments are being finalized and folks that have already
signed up will be asked to re-confirm their reservations and to watch
the website for published driving directions to the program facility
along with a list of nearyby motels for those who need them.
Anyone who has not considered taking advantage of this program (or
others around the country like it) are invited to check out the
seminars description and sign-up page at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyColt45(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Big GPS for sale |
Anyone interested in a Magellan EC-10X GPS/moving map. Used it about 3
times in my MKIII. North American and Northeastern data base cartridges.
Cig lighter adapter. Display is 6"x4.5". I paid $1600. for it about 5 yrs
ago. Been sitting on a shelf ever since. In original case.
Jim SE/PA & SE/FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Special AUTOCAD offer to our friends on the lists . . . |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
If you'd like to get your feet wet with the world's most
popular PC based CAD system REALLY cheap, check out . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/acadr12.html
This will stay up on the website for a few days only and
is not linked by any other pages on the internet.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | looking for can for windows |
need cad for windows
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
I could step by step tell you how to do it, but go to "Help"
on your Main E-Mail screen, and search HTML...It will tell
you exactly how to disconnect it. Then when you need it
later you will have the knowledge to turn it off and on with
ease.
Julian Warren
Eugene,Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 10:38 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Help
>
> I seem to be able to answer mail to the List with the new computer, but
when
> I try a new message, Matronics kicks it back as containing HTML. I don't
> know how to turn it off ( ?? ) and msn tech was no help. Help ! ! !
> Lar.
>
>
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: looking for can for windows |
I have keycad. Usually in the $9.99 bin at the computer store. It does
everything I need to do.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine overheating (again) |
Trouble is with black line you're not going to be able to see any air pulled
into the line.
Ken
Tucson
Building a Firestar
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jung" <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine overheating (again)
>
> Beauford,
>
> Here is something that I learned recently (since I installed an EIS) that
may
> help. The pitch of the prop will make a BIG difference in EGT's. If I
allow my
> static RPM to vary from 6,000, to 6,500, my EGT's will go from 1,000 to
over
> 1,200, with no other changes. My solution, and what I recommend, is to
change
> the pitch to control the EGT's, and run stock jetting for your altitude.
If you
> have to go below 6,000 static, then you probably have an intake leak, and
it is
> probably at the pulse line.
>
> You might as well eliminate a pulse line leak as a problem before you fly
> again. Get good black gas line, of fuel injection line and use those
stainless
> connectors with worm gears in them. Make sure that they are tight enough
that
> you cannot rotate the connections and they will not leak.
>
> John Jung
> Firestar II N6163J
> SE Wisconsin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Herren" <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com> |
Had 2 good fly-ins in Lousyana this month. If you aren't far from us I hope
you can attend one or both next year. First was the Allen Parish Fly-in Nov
3&4. About 100 A/C with the most famous was the purpose built time to climb
record craft the EXXON TIGER flown by Bruce Bohannon. It makes a lot of
noise and climbs almost at the angle of a hot sling shot.(at a higher rate
of speed) Three Kolb FireStars from N. LA. were there - none were listers.
I saw a Kolb fly in LA for the first time ever. (not counting the one I
was flying) Second was the Chapter 614 Fly-in Nov 13&14. This year held at
Buhlow Airport in Pineville LA. World records in some classes of power boat
have been set just off the end of the runway. I didn't get an A/C count but
we had a good time. Dell Cross was showing the Kolb Flyer that he has been
flying for about 20 yrs. Dell thinks the Solos have around 2000 hours each.
WX great for both events. Al Womack brought his 1941 Waco Cabin to both
events; he refused to show saying it was too soon since his best of show
award at our spring fly-in. A truly spectacular restoration which was done
for Frank Bohrman of astronaut and Eastern Airlines fame.
Bill in Lousyana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
Had hoped to see you at Copperstate, Ken. Lar.
>
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | kolb mk11 kit builders manuals |
Was wondering how many pages is the mkII builders manuals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals |
Paul Robinson wrote:
>
>
> Was wondering how many pages is the mkII builders manuals?
>
53 pages for the manual, as for the dwg's, i don't know.
ole
mk2 in norway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: black pulse line. |
I do not mean to "butt in" but, many years as a diesel truck mech gave me
really interesting experiences with hose lines. If you use black line with
the inner rubber core and outer brade and then another rubber outside (this
is pretty much the way it is built) you risk the problem of the inner core
coming loose and become a "valve". This means the pulse actually just sucks
the inner core loose and pulses and not actually change the air pressure to
the pump. It can break loose inside and when either pressure or suction is
applied, it can close like a valve. Very hard to find and evaluate.
Sometimes it just restricts the flow and not close it up. Almost imposible
to find if you are not looking for it. Just imagine putting a radiator
overflow tube - very light thin rubber - on a pulse line and think how it
would suck together and all. That is exactly what can happen to the black
pulse line. Not very often but it can happen so be aware of this when
trouble shooting fuel problems. Hope this helps someone. p.s. the only way
to find it usually is to by-pass the line or replace it. Ted Cowan Opelike,
Alabama. I believe air craft quality hose is manufactured in one continuous
molding to prevent this -- is that right Hawk?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals |
39 in the PICTURE assembly manual and 59 in the CONSTRUCTION manual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert A. Haines" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
"Robert A. Haines"
Regarding cutting aluminum gussets... This weekend I had to cut some
gussets and used a tool I completly forgot about. I bought a pair of shears
at Lowes when I installed some heating ductwork and they worked great.
They are different from the right hand cut or left hand cut shears (red
handled and green handled, I believe) with the two inch blades that I think
several of you use. Those are great because they make cutting curves easy,
but this can also lead to problems. The problem I didn't like is that you
end up rolling the metal that gets cut away.
The shears from Lowes look more like scissors as they are symetrical about
the centerline. They only cut straight lines but the cut leaves both pieces
of metal in good condition. I think they were $15-$25 bucks and they work
great as general purpose cutters.
Robert Haines
St. Louis, MO - Murphysboro, IL
SlingShot (still mostly in storage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Aircraft Spruce and others sell 1/4" OD soft aluminum fuel line tubing. It
is easy to cut and bend, and doesn't work harden. If you are going to use
the clear urethane tubing, you can cut the urethane to length, and then cut
a length of the aluminum tubing about one and one quarter inches shorter,
wet it down with WD40, and slide the aluminum inside the clear tubing, bend
it to shape and it will hold that bend and not flop over and rub on things
you don't want it to. Now you have a "reinforced" tube that cannot have the
inside wall collapse.
I have had good results with this method. You can also just use the
aluminum tubing for the pulse line, fuel lines, etc and eliminate the
urethane oversleeve, but you double the number of clamps because you still
need a short length of rubber or urethane fuel line at all the nipple
connections.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, Tn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert A. Haines" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
"Robert A. Haines"
Julian,
I have only worked on the wings but I built them in the living room of an
empty apartment. I used just saw horses for the wings and put a cheap,
unfinished, hollow core interior door on the saw horses for a table. I
built all the smaller parts on this. I had to rearrange when working on
different parts but very few of us have the room to do otherwise. I would
guess I had a 10' x 16' space.
Robert Haines
St. Louis, MO - Murphysboro, IL
SlingShot
******
This building table thing has me a little concerned. Saw horse would seem
to be a good way, but I am more concerned about the total space I need. My
shop is 32x36...
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert A. Haines" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
"Robert A. Haines"
Julian,
I have only worked on the wings but I built them in the living room of an
empty apartment. I used just saw horses for the wings and put a cheap,
unfinished, hollow core interior door on the saw horses for a table. I
built all the smaller parts on this. I had to rearrange when working on
different parts but very few of us have the room to do otherwise. I would
guess I had a 10' x 16' space.
I'm not trying to win the Small Workshop Award but I think that this would
be the smallest allowable space. You would need a true shop to do the
covering, assembly, and painting.
Robert Haines
St. Louis, MO - Murphysboro, IL
SlingShot
******
This building table thing has me a little concerned. Saw horse would seem
to be a good way, but I am more concerned about the total space I need. My
shop is 32x36...
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bonnie Juneau <bjuneau(at)megagate.com> |
hey Kolbers, anybody attending Lucedale,Ms. fly-in at So.Mississippit
Light Aircraft Oct.21 & 22
Ron (Firestar II N717RJ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert A. Haines" <robertsjunk(at)hotmail.com> |
"Robert A. Haines"
The AutoCad 12 that Bob Nuckolls should work on Windows in a DOS window. If
I hadn't just bought CAD software, I would be considering it.
I use AutoCad 2000 at work and am somewhat experienced. I learned on
AutoCad 10 a decade ago and use the same basic commands now. Not that
AutoCad hasn't changed in 10 years but the fundamentals with CAD drawing
remains the same. Simply put, for any CAD software, you'll end up using
these commands 90% of the time: Line, Circle, Erase, Trim, Extend, Offset,
Mirror, Undo. So far, I have use AutoCad 10, 12, 14, 2000, and LT (a cheap
windows based version), CadKey, and own DesignCad.
What sets software apart is the ease in you get to imput these commands.
It's nice to have these on a menu on the screen and that may be all you
need. I find that if are doing a lot of work, having the ability to enter
commands on the keyboard is crutial. This way, your left hand is on the
mouse, and your right hand is entering commands (e for erase, c for circle,
l for line, etc...) and your eyes are concentrating on the drawing.
Otherwise, my analogy would be like trying to type when you don't know where
the keys are; constantly looking down trying to find the correct key. THE
BIG PROBLEM is that the software companies know this and usually only sell
this functionalilty with the professional version which means $$$.
The only other criteria that is important is Windows vs. DOS and 2D vs. 3D
(2D equates to plans only - 3D allows 3 dimension modeling, a tool most
people never use). There are several $50-$120 packages out there. I have
DesignCad at home because I am one of those rare people that use 3D and it
has it. Don't get too caught up with 3D, it is NOT quicker to generate all
drafting views with this tool, old-school drafting methods are more
appropriate.
Oops, maximum words-per-email setpoint exceeded, must terminate message.
(Hope this helps)
Robert Haines
St. Louis, MO
SlingShot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
La--check format in message--look at top--open--click on plain
text-----send.
Lindy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALLENB007(at)aol.com |
Danny,
I got your post and it was great to see you this weekend. YOur firestar
looks super and you did a very, good job in the completion of it. Makes me
yearn for another ultralight. Hope you have many hours of enjoyment.
Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
I am in surch of a radio & headset for an open air twinstar. I fly solo & I
have no
need to talk to a pasenger. but i do need a headset that will handle wind
noise
and a radio to hook it to.
anyone who has had any luck finding such a setup I would like to know.
mark
flying from wanamingo mn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: black pulse line. |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Ted,
I've been using black auto fuel line for the pulse line for 14 years with
no problems. I've looked at mine and it appears there are no layers as
you have described in the wall of the line. Is some fuel line
manufactured with solid walls? Even though black fuel line is heavier
duty, it would last for years. As for the bubbles, I had them for a long
time with clear urethane line until I found they were coming from the
fuel pump. The plastic rachet clamps would not clamp tight enough on the
pump and allow air into the line. I now use hose clamps on the pump (the
line covered with heat shrink to protect it) and plastic clamps
everywhere else.
Ralph Burlingame
Original FireStar
>
> I do not mean to "butt in" but, many years as a diesel truck mech
> gave me
> really interesting experiences with hose lines. If you use black
> line with
> the inner rubber core and outer brade and then another rubber
> outside (this
> is pretty much the way it is built) you risk the problem of the
> inner core
> coming loose and become a "valve".
>Ted Cowan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals |
>
>, $30 for copying per set plus
>shipping.
>
>Ed in JXN, restoring MkII #1374
>MkII/503
I don't know but I think you guys may be getting into copyright
infringement. Dennis will probably have a comment on this. Perhaps the
Fergy company can tell you how to get away with it. I hope no one is going
to try and scratch build from the info he collects from the net. The plans
and instructions don't allways give proper tube dia. and thicknesses.
Airplanes cost money. Get used to it. A good dependable kit will cost money
but if done right you will have a great performer and safe flyer.
Purchasing a partially built kit is economical and you will get the prints
and instructions with it. And this is from one of the cheapest guys on the list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: clear tubing |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>I remember seeing at a trade show booth a few years ago
>a sample card with short pieces of flexible, clear tubing mounted
>on it, each a different kind of plastic, with different qualities.
>I wish I had one of those cards----the point is, there is manufactured
>clear, flexible tubing that will safely serve the purpose of non-
>collapsing gas line. The problem is that they all look very similar
>--vinyl varieties being the most supple. --propylene, ethylene,
>even teflon tubing having a milky look. Try an industrial supplier,
>NOT a hardware store. I'll see what I can turn up BB
I think the stuff you're looking for is called TYGON.
It is water clear. Fairly heavy walled (i.e. won't collapse
with high vacuum) and I believe it's gasoline resistant.
See:
http://www.integraco.com/chemfluor.htm where I extracted
the quote, "Unlike metal and rubber alternatives,
Chemfluor tubings are non-corroding and non-oxidizing.
Unlike other plastic materials, they are unaffected by
solvents, acids and fuels."
My local hardware store sells this stuff in various
diameters from big spools.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
I just want a set to look at and see if this is something i can build i
dont want to make the aircraft from scratch or kill myself. i just want
to see if this is something i could build easy and fun for myself
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | Waht kit is better markIII or markIII extra |
What kit should i buy markIII or MarkIIIextra?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finally started to build |
In a message dated 10/10/2000 9:58:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< I had to cut
a 10" diameter hole in my aluminum center gap cover. >>
Shouda used one of those Circle Cutters in a drill, Lar.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar-Rotax 377
Audubon, NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
"Christopher John Armstrong"
Don't get too caught up with 3D, it is NOT quicker to generate all
>drafting views with this tool, old-school drafting methods are more
>appropriate.
I use Solidworks 3D solid modeling CAD software exclusively now. For every
thing from a tiny simple part to a full gearbox model I find it much faster
then any other program that I have used. It is probably to pricey for part
timers but if your going to be doing lots of CAD it is fantastic. I do not
agree that "old-school drafting methods are more appropriate." Software is
a evolving thing and the early forms of CAD software copied what the
draftsman did with a lead holder and vellum. the newest round of software
takes full advantage of the powerful computers out there and lets the user
blast off complicated 3d solid models in a matter of minutes. after that it
will nearly instantly generate any view with or without hidden lines,
section views along any section, details... anything. If you have not tried
a modern solid modeler like solidworks then I suggest you do. it takes a
while to learn the new techniques but after that it is drastically more
productive for anything other then a fairly simple 2D sketch. I used
AutoCAD years ago, and never thought it was a very easy to use piece of
software. Catia was fun but Solid works can do most of what Catia can do
and is much easier to use, not to mention about $60k less! ( Do you really
use the mouse in your left hand and keyboard in your right?)
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Hudson" <phudson(at)iwvisp.com> |
Hi gang,
Here's a few of my comments learned from my recent 477 single carb tune
up...
I've interspersed them with some of Richards comments...
First off the big stuff
First I tuned the jets then fixed the prop pitch...that;'s the wrong order
as the pitch made a big diference in EGTs (more static RPM...Higher EGTs)
>
> Will it get hot running tied down on the ground? If it is a mechanical
> problem such as an air leak or a problem with airflow, then it ought to
get
> hot wether you are in flight or tied down
I found I got about 30-50 degrees hotter CHTs on the ground (hot desert air)
than flying.
> My 5 year old CPS book (out of date?) shows the single carb 447 to use a
> 165 main jet, a 2.70 Needle Jet, and a 15K2 Jet Needle.
I started there but wound up at a 185 main and a 2.72 needle jet (and I'm
operating at 1790 feet)
Now it gages are fine (1100 max power, 1125 at 6000 RPM cruise) and the
plugs still look good.
> If you decide that you need a different Jet Needle, (probably not, last
resort)
> If you are currently using a 15K2, then you can't hardly get a richer
> needle for 5800 RPM, you have to go to a bigger Needle Jet.
Yup,
In my case the timing on the needle was fine I needed more fuel throughout
mid range so the needle JET was replaced (the 2.72 vice 2.70)
I'd recommend getting it close (on the cool side) then fly around over the
patch to fine tune the temps...It is a little different in the air.
-Peter Hudson-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Lynx has a headset with a push to talk switch built into the one headset
earcup. It adapts straight to a handheld radio and they are the best units I
have ever tried. I would also recommend one of the ICOM radios.
Denny Rowe
-----Original Message-----
From: Mhqqqqq(at)aol.com <Mhqqqqq(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, October 16, 2000 5:40 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: radio
>
>I am in surch of a radio & headset for an open air twinstar. I fly solo &
I
>have no
>need to talk to a pasenger. but i do need a headset that will handle wind
>noise
>and a radio to hook it to.
>
>anyone who has had any luck finding such a setup I would like to know.
>
>mark
>flying from wanamingo mn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lucedale, Miss |
My Lady and I are getting ready to leave on Wednesday for Lucedale. Hope the
weather pattern clears by Friday and Sat. Wont stop us, we need to get away.
This retirement thing is tough. Have to take a vacation now and then.
Anyway, I am White Lightning and it is an 86' Firestar, white with lightning
hits - of course. Hope to see someone there. Ted Cowan, Opelika, Al. (White
Lightning) p.s. Hope to join the raindeer games.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Waligroski, Gregg" <Gregg.Waligroski(at)pantellos.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb Performance |
"Waligroski, Gregg"
Well I recently performed some upgrades on my FSII. The most significant
was the change from a 377 to a DCDI 503. In the process we test fit and ran
a converted Czech APU unit with the generator removed. We're guessing it
puts out about 250lbs thrust. It ran a bit hot so until we get that solved I
will run the 503. At the 5000 ft. takeoff altitude I get about 900 to
1000fpm. A tremendous increase from the 400-500fpm with the 377. Top end
goes up as well but interestingly the fuel burn initially seems about the
same as the 377 at the same speed. It was a beautiful day in Boulder this
past Sunday morning so when I took off I pointed towards Longs Peak (one of
Colorado's 14ers) about 20 miles away. The Kolb cruise climbed right on up
to 14,000ft. About halfway to the peak the terrain below looked pretty
forbidding and I noticed I was shaking. Turned out the outside air temp had
dropped from the 44F at takeoff to about 20F once I reached 14000. I had
not dressed well enough for this unplanned trip. As I approached the peak
my groundspeed dropped from the initial 60mph down low to about 28mph at
14000. I apparently was encountering some upper level winds. I decided not
to fly too close or around the west side as there could be a lot of lee side
turbulence. About 2 miles out my toes finally signed off and my fingers
were getting numb so it was time to turn back. The scenery was fantastic
and the Kolb performed great at altitude! Temps were pretty stable so the
change in pressure must have been offset somewhat by the drop in OAT. I
don't know if I will get a chance to circle the peak on another low wind day
since I am soon to be in Houston area. Will try to publish some pics on a
website soon.
Gregg Waligroski
Kolbn in Colorado only a few more times..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy & Carolyn" <TommyandCarolyn(at)centurytel.net> |
"Tommy & Carolyn"
Bill,
Sorry I had to run off, Carolyn has classes on Monday nite and I was
going with her to run some errands.
You did a very good service and job of describing our fly-ins. I hate
I missed 614's. Would really have enjoyed seeing Dell Cross again.
I met him years ago I think at a fly-in in Lake Charles or there about.
Next time your coming thru, would you bring my tapes. I'm especially
protective of my welding and torch tape. If you're not able to make a
copy, let me know and I'll make one for you.
Take care, catch you later.
Tommy
-----Original Message-----
From: William Herren <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Monday, October 16, 2000 12:17 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fly-ins
>
>Had 2 good fly-ins in Lousyana this month. If you aren't far from us I
hope
>you can attend one or both next year. First was the Allen Parish Fly-in
Nov
>3&4. About 100 A/C with the most famous was the purpose built time to
climb
>record craft the EXXON TIGER flown by Bruce Bohannon. It makes a lot of
>noise and climbs almost at the angle of a hot sling shot.(at a higher rate
>of speed) Three Kolb FireStars from N. LA. were there - none were
listers.
> I saw a Kolb fly in LA for the first time ever. (not counting the one I
>was flying) Second was the Chapter 614 Fly-in Nov 13&14. This year held at
>Buhlow Airport in Pineville LA. World records in some classes of power
boat
>have been set just off the end of the runway. I didn't get an A/C count
but
>we had a good time. Dell Cross was showing the Kolb Flyer that he has been
>flying for about 20 yrs. Dell thinks the Solos have around 2000 hours
each.
> WX great for both events. Al Womack brought his 1941 Waco Cabin to both
>events; he refused to show saying it was too soon since his best of show
>award at our spring fly-in. A truly spectacular restoration which was done
>for Frank Bohrman of astronaut and Eastern Airlines fame.
> Bill in Lousyana
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | edchmiel(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals |
Woody,
My offer on the list for blueprints is only to cover out-of-pocket
expenses for copying. The plans are for others like myself who have bought
a used Kolb and need some form of documentation to restore it and keep it
airborne. Prior to becoming a corporate pilot, I was a custom machinery
builder. Even with my skills in that area, I would never attempt to build
something as sophisticated as a Kolb from "plans on the net". Hopefully,
Homer and Dennis will understand and not view our actions as any type of
"copyright infringement". The New Kolb folks do not support these older
birds, so we vintage Kolb owners must rely on each other for most of this
info. It is my experience that some factory info, albeit second-hand, is
better than guessing.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals
>
>
> >
> >, $30 for copying per set plus
> >shipping.
> >
> >Ed in JXN, restoring MkII #1374
> >MkII/503
> I don't know but I think you guys may be getting into copyright
> infringement. Dennis will probably have a comment on this. Perhaps the
> Fergy company can tell you how to get away with it.>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
| Subject: | Re: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals |
edchmiel(at)mindspring.com wrote:
>
>
> Woody,
>
> My offer on the list for blueprints is only to cover out-of-pocket
> expenses for copying. The plans are for others like myself who have bought
> a used Kolb and need some form of documentation to restore it and keep it
> airborne. Prior to becoming a corporate pilot, I was a custom machinery
> builder. Even with my skills in that area, I would never attempt to build
> something as sophisticated as a Kolb from "plans on the net". Hopefully,
> Homer and Dennis will understand and not view our actions as any type of
> "copyright infringement". The New Kolb folks do not support these older
> birds, so we vintage Kolb owners must rely on each other for most of this
> info. It is my experience that some factory info, albeit second-hand, is
> better than guessing.
>
> Ed in JXN
> MkII/503
>
very very much better indeed. i have a mk2 myself which i bought
secondhand including the construction manual. as my bird has gotten 12
years old and the time to do an airframe major is getting near, i might
be needing a set of those prints myself.
could you check what shipping for this printed matter to norway by USPS
would be and mail me your findings off list ?
regards
ole noetnes
mk2 in norway
===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Construction manuel and plans |
I have been following the posts about Mark II manuel and plans. I may have
an opertunity to purchase a Firestar II of unknown year model that doesn't
have all of the control surface conection parts with it. I don't think it
has plans or a manuel with it either. I was hopeing to make a deal on this
machine before Ms. Ken Mead sold the set that she had. Any thoughts on some
place to purchase plans? This plane kit was purchased at least 6 years ago,
I assume that The New Kolb supports Firestar planes produced by Homer and
Dennis?
Sam Cox
hopefully soon to be a Kolb owner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Building space. |
Greetings,
I built the first kit in my dinning room 10'X12'. The table I used is 4'X8'
and its frame was built by a general contractor friend, it only took him 15
minutes to cut and nail the frame together with a cutoff saw and pneumatic
nail gun. He made the frame smaller then the plywood so I could clamp parts
on the edge of the table.
http://members.aol.com/fs2kolb/pictures/tail.jpg
http://members.aol.com/fs2kolb/pictures/18.jpg
The wings were built on sawhorses this made it easier to drill from under the
wing without having to turn it around before I was done riveting. I think
this contributed to my FireStar flying hand off.
http://members.aol.com/guillermou/69.jpg
On another note;
After 3 weeks we finally repaired Dave Rains FireStar, his back in the air.
The wing bow had some ugly damage after running into the side the hanger door
frame. You can't even notice the repairs unless you look hard, we repainted
the trim and it looks very nice.
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
BTW: I just updated my builder's log web page with new pictures.
In a message dated 10/14/00 1:01:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jgw300(at)netzero.net writes:
> This building table thing has me a little concerned. Saw horse would seem
> to be a good way, but I am more concerned about the total space I need. My
> shop is 32x36, but it has other equipment in it also. How much space am I
> going to have to clear away to build in.
> Who is building in a cramped space, and how cramped! I want to build at
> home, because I last worked in a hanger 14 miles away and that was a real
> hassle. I spent many hours just driving to and from the site. This time
I
> would like to just walk out to the shop and work when the spirit hits me.
> I am retired and have a few old flying buddies who enjoy hanger flying. Of
> course they also have a lot of advise. I'm not complaining they are great
> people and fun to have around. My 400 hour building project will probably
> end up over 600 however.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | FireFly Photos and Mods |
My son gave me some space on a server that he rents. I have been keeping a
little photo log of my progress on my FireFly. I do not have any early
construction pictures, but I have been taking some of modifications to the
plane and during fly abouts.
You may find them interesting. The link follows:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly01.html
Jack B. Hart
FF-004, Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
"'Jack & Louise Hart'"
| Subject: | FireFly Photos and Mods |
Wow--very cool modifications--I can learn from your hard work. Dale Seitzer
little photo log of my progress on my FireFly. I do not have any early
construction pictures, but I have been taking some of modifications to the
plane and during fly abouts.
Jack B. Hart
FF-004, Jackson, MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: black pulse line. |
Ralph-agree with u 1000%-have been using the black line for approx. 10
years-never have had a problem.Even on missile engines designed for a 1 time
flight-never used plastic line--for anything!
Lindy
Level Plains , Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals |
>Woody,
>
> My offer on the list for blueprints is only to cover out-of-pocket
>expenses for copying. The plans are for others like myself who have bought
>a used Kolb
I understand that and think your offer is very kind for vintage Kolb
owners or even to study and dream. It is a good way to decide if you could
handle the building process. I did get the impression ( I could be wrong
and that is not an uncommon occurrence) that one list member may be trying
to build a Mk11 with out benefit of a kit. I was just pointing out there
may be a safety concern in doing it this way. At the bottom of the prints
or somewhere there is a disclaimer that only one aircraft can be built from
a set of plans. This is pretty well standard on any aircraft kit. What this
does is to protect the intellectual rights of the designer and also limits
his liability. I know of one guy who took many measurements of my Kolb
flyer and built a copy. He used whatever material he could find including
steel pipe and tv antennas. I was able to discourage him from flying it. If
it had flown (briefly) and crashed it would have probably been called a
Kolb aircraft and Homer and Dennis would have had to defend themselves
because one of their aircraft crashed. Dennis and Homer stopped selling
plans only so they could be sure of the quality of components going into
Kolb aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Waht kit is better markIII or markIII extra |
>
>The Mk 111 is a good aircraft but the extra is the best looking Ultralight
>on the market right now. It does cost more.
>
>What kit should i buy markIII or MarkIIIextra?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | Trade jacuzzi for aircraft kit |
I would like to trade my jacuzzi plus some cash for a aircraft kit email
me for more details thanks paul......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dell Vinal <zoper(at)mint.net> |
I've been investigating search diving equipment lately, while my
mk3 sits in her hanger. To be brief, an item I've found is home made
electric clothing. You can do it for almost free. My personal
experiments have been quick and dirty, using old electric blanket wire.
Just put battery voltage through the stuff after you thread it through
the item to be heated. Its great! Go to
http//www.ibmwr.org/otech/vestrepair.html
This is where I got some of my info. On the bottom of this page
are several sites with lots more info. Beyond a certain level of
exposure to cold while motionless, heat must be put into a man for him
to safely function or maybe even have fun flying. I am preoccupied now
but I hope someone runs with this. Mk3 N9698Z all pickled for storage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
"Waligroski, Gregg"
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Performance |
That's why we're building these things, Gregg. Keep the stories coming.
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Waligroski, Gregg" <Gregg.Waligroski(at)pantellos.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 6:27 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb Performance
>
> Well I recently performed some upgrades on my FSII. The most significant
> was the change from a 377 to a DCDI 503. In the process we test fit and
ran
> a converted Czech APU unit with the generator removed. We're guessing it
> puts out about 250lbs thrust. It ran a bit hot so until we get that solved
I
> will run the 503. At the 5000 ft. takeoff altitude I get about 900 to
> 1000fpm. A tremendous increase from the 400-500fpm with the 377. Top end
> goes up as well but interestingly the fuel burn initially seems about the
> same as the 377 at the same speed. It was a beautiful day in Boulder this
> past Sunday morning so when I took off I pointed towards Longs Peak (one
of
> Colorado's 14ers) about 20 miles away. The Kolb cruise climbed right on
up
> to 14,000ft. About halfway to the peak the terrain below looked pretty
> forbidding and I noticed I was shaking. Turned out the outside air temp
had
> dropped from the 44F at takeoff to about 20F once I reached 14000. I had
> not dressed well enough for this unplanned trip. As I approached the peak
> my groundspeed dropped from the initial 60mph down low to about 28mph at
> 14000. I apparently was encountering some upper level winds. I decided
not
> to fly too close or around the west side as there could be a lot of lee
side
> turbulence. About 2 miles out my toes finally signed off and my fingers
> were getting numb so it was time to turn back. The scenery was fantastic
> and the Kolb performed great at altitude! Temps were pretty stable so the
> change in pressure must have been offset somewhat by the drop in OAT. I
> don't know if I will get a chance to circle the peak on another low wind
day
> since I am soon to be in Houston area. Will try to publish some pics on a
> website soon.
>
> Gregg Waligroski
> Kolbn in Colorado only a few more times..........
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis & Diane Kirby <kirbyd(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: decisions database? |
To John Richmond:
=============
Would you mind sharing the whats and whys of your planes for me ?
Please fill in the following, and send it back to me (off list if you
want).
What plane have you?
Mark-III, purchased in 1998.
Building or under construction?
Still building - approx 90% complete. All construction is done. Still
need to paint it, and install engine, instruments & interior. I expect
first flight next spring or summer.
Which engine?
Verner-1400. 80 hp, 2-cyl, 4-stroke, air-cooled, cog belt reduction.
Which prop?
PowerFin composite, 3-blade, 72"
Which instruments?
Airspeed, Altimeter, VSI, compass, tach, CHT, oil temp, Hobbs.
I have also installed 3 power jacks (12v) to power an intercom, handheld
radio and GPS.
Have you a BRS chute or similar?
No. That decision came from my years of flying Cessnas, Pipers, etc.
without BRS-type parachutes. I'm not worried about a wing falling off
my Kolb, or overstressing the airframe by flying it crazy. I'm
confident enough in the design of this airplane and my building skills
that, if flown the way Homer intended, this airplane isn't going to fall
apart in flight. Most likely flight emergency will be an engine that
quits, in which case I'd rather take my chances gliding in at a
controlled 35mph rather than deploy a BRS, which pretty much guarantees
a broken airframe
after the hitting the ground.
What overall cost roughly?
$15-16K. (estimate at completion)
Have you a trailer?
Not yet, but am planning to build and enclosed, one-axle trailer.
Anything else special?
Two modifications in the cockpit I've built:
Displaced instrument panel. (i.e., built a panel that is 6 inches
closer to the pilot, per Cliff Stripling's design.) Instruments are not
mounted to the fiberglass panel of the nosecone, but rather on a
shock-mounted alum panel. Everything is within reach and my instruments
should last longer on the vibration-isolated panel.
I also built an auxilliary electrical panel, recess-mounted, in the
sloping alum floorpan just below the passenger's legs. Contains the
starter button, master switch, strobe and elec fuel pump switches, fuse
block, and 3 power jacks (for plugging in my handheld, intercom & GPS).
Why did you choose this aircraft?
Folding wing design & transportability, conventional construction
methods, proven history (over 2000 various Kolb kits sold in the past
20+ years), safe airplane, STOL capabilities. Options I chose were full
enclosure, hydraulic brakes, quick-build ribs and "plush" interior.
What do you like most about it?
Easy storage - no more airport hangar fees. Strong chromoly steel
cage. Low stall speed.
Able to build it in half of a 2-car garage using 2 sawhorses. Very
straightforward construction techniques - good
for a first-time builder like me. Can be built with common shop tools.
I did my whole airplane using an electric drill, hacksaw, tin snips,
files and a hand-squeeze riveter. No band saw, drill press, grinder,
pneumatic rivet gun, or other such power tools. Yeah they help, but are
not necessary. I like that it's fabric covered, not 'ultralight'
sailcloth.
Can't speak to flying qualities yet, as it is not yet flying. But
looking forward to the possibilities
offered by it's STOL performance.
What do you like least about it?
Not the shortest build time. Other similar kits on the market (RANS
S-12, for example) can be
built in somewhat less time. I'll have to get used to the heel brakes.
I've heard folding the wings
isn't as easy as Kolb makes it out to be.
Anything else you'd like to share?
Have always had excellent customer support from Kolb Company - both old
and new. The Kolb-List is also an excellent source of info - I've drawn
from the collective smarts of these folks
for MANY building & flying ideas and tips.
Would you like this info shared in a master database matrix on the Kolb
list?
YES
If so, anonymously?
Please use my name.
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steiner <steiner(at)icenter.net> |
"'Dell Vinal'"@matronics.com
Go to a auto supply store and get an electric seat cushion, they keep your
back and bottom toasty warm. The one that I use is thermostat controlled
(a small thermostat is imbedded in the cushion). It draws 5 amps when the
thermostat is calling for heat. I purchased mine at Sears.
Brian Kim Steiner
Saskatchewan, Canada
-----Original Message-----
From: Dell Vinal [SMTP:zoper(at)mint.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 8:11 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: heated clothing
I've been investigating search diving equipment lately, while my
mk3 sits in her hanger. To be brief, an item I've found is home made
electric clothing. You can do it for almost free. My personal
experiments have been quick and dirty, using old electric blanket wire.
Just put battery voltage through the stuff after you thread it through
the item to be heated. Its great! Go to
http//www.ibmwr.org/otech/vestrepair.html
This is where I got some of my info. On the bottom of this page
are several sites with lots more info. Beyond a certain level of
exposure to cold while motionless, heat must be put into a man for him
to safely function or maybe even have fun flying. I am preoccupied now
but I hope someone runs with this. Mk3 N9698Z all pickled for storage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | edchmiel(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals |
Woody,
Nice try, but it's too late for back-pedalling. When you say things
like "you guys may be getting into copyright infringement" and "perhaps the
Fergy company can help you get away with it", I don't take it as concern
for the safety of others. Especially the Fergy remark. As for "airplanes
cost money, get used to it", I paid for and got a Kolb that I would like to
maintain with the help of other Kolbers. If you're so worried about the
safety of others, why did you stand idly by as "one guy... took many
measurements of my Kolb flyer and built a copy " using "whatever material he
could find"? Did he tie you up, or did you think he was an FAA inspector
with a penchant for tape measures? Spare me the dime-store lawyering about
disclaimers and intellectual rights, OK? If I want to share my blueprints
with other Kolb owners, then I will.
Deal with it.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals
>
> >
> > I did get the impression ( I could be wrong
> and that is not an uncommon occurrence) that one list member may be trying
> to build a Mk11 with out benefit of a kit. I was just pointing out there
> may be a safety concern in doing it this way.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
What gives? I received over twenty messages about the western cow fiasco,
ENOUGH ALREADY!.
Denny "my delete key is worn out" Rowe.
Hang the dirty devils from a Pterodactyl kingpost and make em do an outside
loop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
Bonnie---White lightning left this morning--he flies a firestar--Look for
Winnebago Motorhome-he normally parks on Right N side of camping area---Do
not know how many of our club--USUA 409 are flying over.
Firehawk is leaving tomorrow morning--also on this list.
We will look u up.
Lindy
Level Plains, Alabama
Southern Flyers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals |
>Woody,
>
> Nice try, but it's too late for back-pedalling. When you say things
>like "you guys may be getting into copyright infringement"
Was that an incorrect statement?
Damm it's gettin hot in here.
I do not see me as back pedalling. I have a concern for safety and
intellectual property rights. Both are important to me.
> If you're so worried about the
>safety of others, why did you stand idly by as "one guy... took many
>measurements of my Kolb flyer and built a copy "
Now who is making assumptions. It could be that while my plane was tied
down and I was 20 miles away he showed up and took down the dimensions and
only called me to show me his handy work after he had it almost built. At
the time I was a dealer for Kolb and would have been happy to sell him some
prints. He probably would have still built it out of pipe and tv antennas
and I still would have dissuaded him from continuing the project.
> If I want to share my blueprints
>with other Kolb owners, then I will.
>Deal with it.
Go for it. I never objected to sharing with Kolb owners. I have been
known to do it myself on the rare occasion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | A new Kolb owner |
As of this afternoon I joined the ranks of proud Kolb owners. I purchased a
post 1991 Firestar II kit 75% completed with only 90% left to go. It came
with plans but not a construction manuel. Anyone with a manuel they want to
sell?
Sam Cox
Saginaw, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals |
I wish you guys would go somewhere else to settle your differences. This is
not helping me build my FireStar and I need a lot of help.,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals
>
> >Woody,
> >
> > Nice try, but it's too late for back-pedalling. When you say
things
> >like "you guys may be getting into copyright infringement"
>
>
> Was that an incorrect statement?
>
> Damm it's gettin hot in here.
> I do not see me as back pedalling. I have a concern for safety and
> intellectual property rights. Both are important to me.
>
>
> > If you're so worried about the
> >safety of others, why did you stand idly by as "one guy... took many
> >measurements of my Kolb flyer and built a copy "
>
> Now who is making assumptions. It could be that while my plane was tied
> down and I was 20 miles away he showed up and took down the dimensions and
> only called me to show me his handy work after he had it almost built. At
> the time I was a dealer for Kolb and would have been happy to sell him
some
> prints. He probably would have still built it out of pipe and tv antennas
> and I still would have dissuaded him from continuing the project.
>
>
> > If I want to share my blueprints
> >with other Kolb owners, then I will.
> >Deal with it.
>
> Go for it. I never objected to sharing with Kolb owners. I have been
> known to do it myself on the rare occasion.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cajwoods(at)mindspring.com |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: SMLA fly-in
Does anyone have lat.-long. coordinates to SMLA flyin?
Bill Woods
912S Slingshot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Annamarie <vincentam(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | 2 Cycle gasoline |
On page 63, of the September 2000 Ultralight Flying Magazine, Arnold
Anderson says it is better to use regular low octane gasoline in 2
strokes.
I have been flying 2 strokes for 10 years, I had a Rotax 503 on my
T-Bird and now I have a Rotax 503 on my Kolb Firestar II. I have always
used premium gasoline.
Which octane should I be using?
P.S. The Kolb files 100 times better than the T-Bird.
Also, thank you for all the responses on the "Water in the aileron"
message: the responses were very helpful!
Bill Vincent
Quinnesec, Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | edchmiel(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: A new Kolb owner |
Sam,
Congratulations on the bird! Maybe we should start a vintage club.
Good luck on the project, this list is a great source of info.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 7:51 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: A new Kolb owner
>
> As of this afternoon I joined the ranks of proud Kolb owners. I purchased
a
> post 1991 Firestar II kit 75% completed with only 90% left to go. It came
> with plans but not a construction manuel. Anyone with a manuel they want
to
> sell?
>
> Sam Cox
> Saginaw, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | year-2000(at)mindspring.com |
I'll apologize in advance for putting political views on this site.
While they are burying the 17 dead, while I am listening to Clinton's
B.S.
-------
<http://www.drudgereport.com/state.htm>
STATE DEPT MEMO: DEATH OF US SAILORS DOES NOT COMPARE TO PALESTINIAN TOLL
The United States State Department believes the "17 or so dead sailors" on
the U.S.S. Cole "does not compare to the 100+ Palestinians who have died in
recent weeks" in Mideast violence, a stunning government memo reveals.
MORE
The Clinton/Gore Administration disapproved a VOICE OF AMERICA broadcast
condemning the attack on the Cole. A memo from the Executive Secretariat
Staff at the State Department stated:
"The Department of State does not clear on the referenced VOA editorial.
"This editorial will reach an audience that is caught up in the violence in
Israel and the Occupied Territories. The 17 or so dead sailors does not
compare to the 100+ Palestinians who have died in recent weeks where we
have remained silent. The people that hear this will not see the separation
we are trying to make and relate it directly to the violence.
"Either VOA adds something in there to take the edge off and mention the
Palestinians or we should kill this editorial until the violence has calmed
for a while.
"S/CT [Secy. for counterterrorism] concurred with this. If you have
questions concerning this editorial, please contact NEA/P (unintelligible)
FROM: Swadia Sarkis, Interagency Coordinator
RE: VOA Editorial: Terrorism Will Fail
OCTOBER 16, 2000
END
copy of the memo: <http://64.89.103.205/>
Filed by Matt Drudge
Reports are moved when circumstances warrant
http://www.drudgereport.com for updates
(c)DRUDGE REPORT 2000
Not for reproduction without permission of the author
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A new Kolb owner |
I think your numbers may be a little off, Sam. If your plane is 75% done,
you've got at least 95% to go. Or is that just me ?? It What ?? C'mon
guys ! ! ! Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 4:51 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: A new Kolb owner
>
> As of this afternoon I joined the ranks of proud Kolb owners. I purchased
a
> post 1991 Firestar II kit 75% completed with only 90% left to go. It came
> with plans but not a construction manuel. Anyone with a manuel they want
to
> sell?
>
> Sam Cox
> Saginaw, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Any Prop experience for a VW powered Mark III ? |
Seems it is time to buy a propeller for our Revmaster VW engine, which is
supposed to get 70 HP out of a 2074 displacement at 3200 RPM. (Got to run 100
Octane in it.)
What parameters, in the way of a wooden prop, should be specified for it?
If there any experience out there, I would sure love to hear what length,
pitch, Hub thickness, Prop manufacture, $$s, etc., was selected.
Also, what level of performance and satisfaction was obtained with your prop
choice.
It will be of interest to find out how you arrived at your choices.
Perhaps even mention who was your mentor, because I'm looking for one.
Thanks with anticipation, Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 2 Cycle gasoline |
Don't believe everything you read in Ultralight Flying. A lot of guys say
they are happy with 87 octane, but my 532 runs better on at least 89, and
so does my buddy's 503. One thing's for sure, you won't hurt it using premium.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>On page 63, of the September 2000 Ultralight Flying Magazine, Arnold
>Anderson says it is better to use regular low octane gasoline in 2
>strokes.
>
>I have been flying 2 strokes for 10 years, I had a Rotax 503 on my
>T-Bird and now I have a Rotax 503 on my Kolb Firestar II. I have always
>used premium gasoline.
>
>Which octane should I be using?
>
>P.S. The Kolb files 100 times better than the T-Bird.
>
>Also, thank you for all the responses on the "Water in the aileron"
>message: the responses were very helpful!
>
>Bill Vincent
>
>Quinnesec, Michigan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron" <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Prop experience for a VW powered Mark III ? |
I know a very good prop maker in Newport, Oregon, owner/operator of Props
Inc. He is quite knowledgeable on such matters and is friendly and easy
going. His name is Jeff and his e-mail address is:
propsinc(at)newportnet.com
Tell him I referred you, I think you will enjoy his friendly nature.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <HGRAFF(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 9:23 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Any Prop experience for a VW powered Mark III ?
>
>
> Seems it is time to buy a propeller for our Revmaster VW engine, which is
> supposed to get 70 HP out of a 2074 displacement at 3200 RPM. (Got to run
100
> Octane in it.)
>
> What parameters, in the way of a wooden prop, should be specified for it?
>
> If there any experience out there, I would sure love to hear what length,
> pitch, Hub thickness, Prop manufacture, $$s, etc., was selected.
>
> Also, what level of performance and satisfaction was obtained with your
prop
> choice.
>
> It will be of interest to find out how you arrived at your choices.
> Perhaps even mention who was your mentor, because I'm looking for one.
>
> Thanks with anticipation, Herb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Prop experience for a VW powered Mark III ? |
I was just reading this morning's AvMail from AvWeb, and came across this
note. Hartzell propellers is offering a free, downloadable brochure
detailing the way they go about choosing a prop for a customer. You can
look it up at www.avweb.com/sponsors/hartzell/tech . Good luck.
Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HGRAFF(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 9:23 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Any Prop experience for a VW powered Mark III ?
>
>
> Seems it is time to buy a propeller for our Revmaster VW engine, which is
> supposed to get 70 HP out of a 2074 displacement at 3200 RPM. (Got to run
100
> Octane in it.)
>
> What parameters, in the way of a wooden prop, should be specified for it?
>
> If there any experience out there, I would sure love to hear what length,
> pitch, Hub thickness, Prop manufacture, $$s, etc., was selected.
>
> Also, what level of performance and satisfaction was obtained with your
prop
> choice.
>
> It will be of interest to find out how you arrived at your choices.
> Perhaps even mention who was your mentor, because I'm looking for one.
>
> Thanks with anticipation, Herb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
You don't need to apologize, JUST DON'T DO IT!
THIS POLITICAL STUFF HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS LIST.
--- year-2000(at)mindspring.com wrote:
> year-2000(at)mindspring.com
>
>
> I'll apologize in advance for putting political
> views on this site.
> While they are burying the 17 dead, while I am
> listening to Clinton's
> B.S.
> -------
>
>
> <http://www.drudgereport.com/state.htm>
>
> STATE DEPT MEMO: DEATH OF US SAILORS DOES NOT
> COMPARE TO PALESTINIAN TOLL
>
> The United States State Department believes the "17
> or so dead sailors" on
> the U.S.S. Cole "does not compare to the 100+
> Palestinians who have died in
> recent weeks" in Mideast violence, a stunning
> government memo reveals.
>
> MORE
>
> The Clinton/Gore Administration disapproved a VOICE
> OF AMERICA broadcast
> condemning the attack on the Cole. A memo from the
> Executive Secretariat
> Staff at the State Department stated:
>
> "The Department of State does not clear on the
> referenced VOA editorial.
>
> "This editorial will reach an audience that is
> caught up in the violence in
> Israel and the Occupied Territories. The 17 or so
> dead sailors does not
> compare to the 100+ Palestinians who have died in
> recent weeks where we
> have remained silent. The people that hear this will
> not see the separation
> we are trying to make and relate it directly to the
> violence.
>
> "Either VOA adds something in there to take the edge
> off and mention the
> Palestinians or we should kill this editorial until
> the violence has calmed
> for a while.
>
> "S/CT [Secy. for counterterrorism] concurred with
> this. If you have
> questions concerning this editorial, please contact
> NEA/P (unintelligible)
>
>
> FROM: Swadia Sarkis, Interagency Coordinator
> TO: Voice of America (VOA), Office of Policy
> RE: VOA Editorial: Terrorism Will Fail
> OCTOBER 16, 2000
>
> END
>
> copy of the memo: <http://64.89.103.205/>
>
> Filed by Matt Drudge
> Reports are moved when circumstances warrant
> http://www.drudgereport.com for updates
> (c)DRUDGE REPORT 2000
> Not for reproduction without permission of the
> author
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | RE: Drudge/Airstrip |
Yup, it's Matt Drudge.
http://www.drudgereport.com
Politically incorrect, his page specializes in the latest DC snafu's, has
links to all the international news wires.
Now for the Kolb stuff: I have had my own airstrip since 1983, it is in a
hayfield right next to a subdivision, and it would be very easy to make
myself unpopular. But with a lot of discretion, I have been able to make it
work.
Noise/nuisance factor: I have always had either an intake silencer or an
aftermuffler on all my Rotax powered craft, the after muffler takes away no
horsepower, the intake silencer does. If you have neighbors close at all,
quiet is good. I let it be known to anybody who might use my strip that
because of the subdivision, there is no "local flying", if any of my
friends come over, they know to fly over the fields away from the houses,
come straight in and land. Take offs the same way, fly away from the
subdivision and leave. Uninvited "drop-ins" are forbidden, not being
unsocial, but I have learned the hard way that idiots can ruin things for
you quickly. Remember the Wizard, used a Yamaha 100cc engine with a tuned
pipe? LOUD. And the dimwit that had it flew three laps around the
subdivision at 50', waving to everybody before he landed at my strip. And
Boy did we get phone calls!!! (People thought it was me, non-flyers think
all u/l's are the same) I told him if he ever came near again I would
personally call the FAA and the sheriff.
Big consideration of any proposed strip is overflight: what does the
approach/departure area look like? If the engine quits during the first 30
seconds after takeoff, what will that do to you?
Prevailing wind: One of the locals that bought my old Hummer had himself a
strip that laid crossways to the wind with a couple big knobs upwind to
create turbulence. Result: one hanger queen Hummer.
Length: I have 750' but you takeoff downhill into the prevailing wind and
land uphill with a tailwind. Since there is a treeline at the uphill end,
there is no choice. That is about the minimum for having a good safe
margin, I would like a little more.
Obstacles: what you can takeoff and clear on a cool fall day with a 5 knot
headwind is really different than what happens in July with a 5 knot
tailwind, give yourself enough margin. A 99% success rate is unacceptable.
Do any of your proposed neighbors raise chickens or turkeys? Don't laugh,
you could be hated/in court/shot at the day after you first fly. Around
here, it's fighting roosters. When you fly over those yards back up in the
hollers' where they have all the individual little pens, you can see those
birds go nuts, flailing, beating, thrashing around, and anybody that raises
fighting roosters could probably also raise small arms fire. (Hey, it's the
mountains of Tennessee, folks take the health of their fighting chickens
seriously...)
Restrictive local laws: Virginia regulates everything, (Virginia is for
Bureaucrats) Tennessee could care less, check it out where you live. And
the FAA requires you to tell them if you use any "landing area" for more
than 30 days, big fine if you don't, they find out, and they have no bigger
fish to fry. They just send you a form, fill it out and send it back, they
really don't care, they just need the count to sustain their budget.
Besides, if some idiot local zoning board comes along some day and tries to
close you down, if you make and keep a copy of the FAA's annual update
form, you can prove that you have been a "registered airport" for a long
time, plan ahead.
19 acres sounds wonderful, plan to buy a good mower with a big deck and
take good care of it. We have a normal size house & lot next to the
hayfield, I think our strip is only around an acre.
Hope this is what you wanted, enjoy your farm and airstrip.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, Tn
>
>Is Drudge his real name--that's a cool name. I am looking for a house
>and farm to put in a landing strip--to all you guys who have your own
>place--what would you recommend--we are ready to make an offer on 19 acres.
> My wife is close to soloing and we are looking forward to flying again.
> I painted the new old frame cage and removed the old gear legs sleeves
>and I am ready to re assemble and recover. Should be a couple weeks and I
>can be in the air again. Original Firestar, St. Paul MN Dale Seitzer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 10/18/00 |
In a message dated 10/19/00 1:59:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> s of this afternoon I joined the ranks of proud Kolb owners. I purchased a
> post 1991 Firestar II kit 75% completed with only 90% left to go. It came
> with plans but not a construction manuel. Anyone with a manuel they want
to
> sell?
Way to go Sam....My Mk2 plans arn't going to help you much but i might be
able to myself this winter. Welcome aboard...you're going to like it.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 10/18/00 |
In a message dated 10/19/00 1:59:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Does anyone have lat.-long. coordinates to SMLA flyin?
> Bill Woods
> 912S Slingshot
can't help you with the coordinates but damn, I'd love to fly that Slingshot
you got!!!!!
Steve Mk2 #171 in Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ultralight editorial |
Denny--only reason I posted messages was to inform all on this list of
current UL events.Fwd 3 related to situation in Calif.Also requested Sam
Cox-who I know and on this list for specific UL violations-buzzing-low
level-what the problem was-no answer to date.
I received UL Traffic daily ( UL Reps List-USUA) I never have received
anything about mad cows.Checked my files back to April 00. I did not send
you anything about mad cows or anyone else on the list-or the list..I have
sent pictures of VG"s on Mark 3 --firestar wings-and other related
stuff -and aerial photo's taken from Mark 3-to only individuals who
requested them-not the complete kolb list.
I doubled checked the 3 messages I forwarded with my server--I run 3
anti-virus programs on incoming traffic-I sent them to tech support and no
viruses.Do not know what your problem is-repeat messages normally come from
the server-or when you do not let--receiving mail-complete it's cycle.
Concerned about your comment of receiving 60 messages--approx. 4 years ago
on Christmas morning I checked my E-mail and shut down my computer--
about an hour later my phone rang off the hook-a virus sent my sent E-mail
files to 258 people all over the world. One hell of a mess-especially when
some sent them back.
Sorry for the inconvenience-just trying to keep everyone informed of current
UL events. Hopefully you can correct the problem at your server.If you have
not contacted--Support-u need to. I did not send you or the list 60
messages.
Lindy
Level Plains, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
| Subject: | Another plans request. |
Hi Kolbers,
It's not often that I post to the list but I do look forward to reading
every post on a daily basis. I don't want to start anything with this
request, but I would really love to get a copy of the construction manual
for an "Original" Firestar. When I became the proud owner of mine last
year, I received the original plans and another small booklet but not the
construction manual. I would like to get a copy so I could become more
familiar with the construction of mine. I am also looking to replace the
sling seat if anyone happens to have one they would like to sell. I would
of course pay for the construction manual also.
Thanks everyone!
Dennis
Original Firestar
Maryland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thats better. |
Denny----Just received your message explaining you found the problem
Cyberspace?????
Leaving for flyin at Ronnie Smiths place in Lucedale, Miss--will shoot some
digital photo's if I see anything new or modified on Kolbs that attend. Know
most of the Kolbers in that area.
Lindy
Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A new Kolb owner |
Sam---
keep the following info for future reference.
If u run into any problems--contact Glen Rinck---his telephone # (850)
592-5891
E-mail--grinck(at)rocketmail.com
Sam,he can solve any construction problems u will encounter and not to much
he does not know about all makes and models of Kolbs He has custom built
many.
Sent u an E-mail--this list--requesting info on situation in Calif.---
anti-UL editorial--and facts as you know them--please post at your earliest
possible convenience.
Lindy
Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: kolb mk11 kit builders manuals |
>I wish you guys would go somewhere else to settle your differences. This is
>not helping me build my FireStar and I need a lot of help.,
Sorry. It has been taken off list and ended now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Prop experience for a VW powered Mark III ? |
Herb,
I think you'd be hard pressed to find a wooden prop that will out
perform a Precision Propellor. They are out of Vernal UT. Mr Reynolds is
the guys name. Its a 2nd gerneration family business & they a real
friendly. All their props are ground adjustable, so you won't have to worry
about buying the wrong prop, plus you can adjust for climb or cruise or EGT.
They use 16 layers of maple wood & each prop is a work of art. They also
have a unique leading edge option that is a soft polyurethane-- it absorbs
an amazing amount of shock from nuts, bolts ect. & just bounces back. They
offer 2 & 3 blade versions of various configuartions & hp ratings.
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: <HGRAFF(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 12:23 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Any Prop experience for a VW powered Mark III ?
>
>
> Seems it is time to buy a propeller for our Revmaster VW engine, which is
> supposed to get 70 HP out of a 2074 displacement at 3200 RPM. (Got to run
100
> Octane in it.)
>
> What parameters, in the way of a wooden prop, should be specified for it?
>
> If there any experience out there, I would sure love to hear what length,
> pitch, Hub thickness, Prop manufacture, $$s, etc., was selected.
>
> Also, what level of performance and satisfaction was obtained with your
prop
> choice.
>
> It will be of interest to find out how you arrived at your choices.
> Perhaps even mention who was your mentor, because I'm looking for one.
>
> Thanks with anticipation, Herb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | CHT's/EGT's on a Rotax 447 |
During my last few flights I have noticed a marked decrease in CHT and
EGT temps. Barely 275 on the CHT and 10000 on the EGT. Dual probes, very
little difference between cylinders. There has also been a noticable increase
in fuel cunsumption. I am obviously running a richer mixture, but I haven't
changed anything. I haven't pulled the plugs yet to check them, at this point
I'm looking for ideas.HELP!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Well I did it again--posted this without disabling HTML
Well I started building my elevators yesterday. I was real proud of
myself with the first one. I got to the point where only two pieces
remained to be installed. The little diagonal braces at the inboard and
out board ends. The elevator was absolutely true. It laid flat on my
table no matter which way I turned it. I installed the first diagonal
brace by riveting it to the leading edge first then tried to line up the
three 5/16 pieces where the come together at the other end of the brace.
Trouble drilling holes. When I popped the first rivet it pulled
through the diagonal brace. To make a long story short I needed to
remove a rivet from the trailing edge to replace a damaged rib stringer.
I thought I was going to have to scrap the entire elevator but Kolb
decided that this was not in a critical area and I could work around it.
My question is does anyone have a way of removing a rivet that has been
set inside a 5/16 tube?
The manual sugjests using a number 30 drill bit for 1/8 inch rivets. I
dropped that
idea very quickly as the holes were a little to large. After the above
problem I am now
drilling the holes 7/64 inches and using a hand reamer of 1/8 inch in
diameter. I am getting perfect 1/8 inch holes
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky.
Building FireStar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CHT's/EGT's on a Rotax 447 |
THAT 10000 ON EGT IS GOING TO BE THE PROBLEM...
RH
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bklebon4(at)cs.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 4:37 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: CHT's/EGT's on a Rotax 447
>
> During my last few flights I have noticed a marked decrease in CHT and
> EGT temps. Barely 275 on the CHT and 10000 on the EGT. Dual probes, very
> little difference between cylinders. There has also been a noticable
increase
> in fuel cunsumption. I am obviously running a richer mixture, but I
haven't
> changed anything. I haven't pulled the plugs yet to check them, at this
point
> I'm looking for ideas.HELP!!!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT's/EGT's on a Rotax 447 |
Since you haven't knowingly done anything, then: your air filter got
clogged partially, or your choke is just barely on all the time, or your
floats are getting fuel saturated and sinking.
Your float air equalization tubes are pointing into the wind and
pressurizing the float bowl. (unlikely)
Remote possibility: the main jet or it's holder has come partially
unscrewed and fuel is leaking up around it (unlikely).
Ivoprop? Cams broke and the prop went to coarse pitch? (The tach should
have changed A BUNCH and you didn't mention that, so also unlikely)
Maybe something else, but look at those first.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> During my last few flights I have noticed a marked decrease in CHT and
>EGT temps. Barely 275 on the CHT and 10000 on the EGT. Dual probes, very
>little difference between cylinders. There has also been a noticable increase
>in fuel cunsumption. I am obviously running a richer mixture, but I haven't
>changed anything. I haven't pulled the plugs yet to check them, at this point
>I'm looking for ideas.HELP!!!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> |
Beauford-
Will send you some pictures later tonight to include-- the cockpit of a
clipped wing firestar-w 503dcdi.Let you see a 360 acre landing field! Put
off departure to South Mississippi until morning-going the long route--via
the Las Vegas of the South--Biloxi---approx. 60 miles to Lucedale.
Lindy
Lower Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Odd...that's the same thing the head elder at church says...
And on a more Kolb related note: (must become relevant again here)
Went flying today, broke an exhaust spring by the ball joint, and developed
a crack where the expansion pipe is welded to the muffler can. What's the
chances that the two incidents are related? Anyway, need to weld it up in
the morning, I think I'm booked to take people for rides and look at leaves
for the next week. Yeah!
Keep it coming Beauford, I love it.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>BAD Old Poops Pike...!!
>Beauford
>FF076
>Government Bureaucrat... (I go any way required...in a way)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
"Larry & Karen Cottrel"
Gang,
some of you put vg's on the elevator, how far back from the front edge
seemed to work the best?
larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 10/18/00 |
Tim's a perty nice
fella, and I guess I'd visit with him, even if he didn't
bring the soda pop.>>>>>
hay meeky tim didnt bring me any soda and i took him
for a ride. what did you do that i didnt????
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 10/18/00 |
herb wrote
Seems it is time to buy a propeller for our Revmaster VW
engine, which is
supposed to get 70 HP out of a 2074 displacement at 3200
RPM. (Got to run 100
Octane in it.)
What parameters, in the way of a wooden prop, should be
specified for it?
herb. i put on a 68 inch 3 blade wood prop. infinantly
ground adjustable prop by precision props in vernal ut.
the reason for that choice was that during a trip to
washington state to see my brother, i was taken around to
all the ul flyers hangers. during the inspections i
noticed all sorts of props hanging on walls and or for
sale. the prop i saw mounted on the birds of those (of
which it seamed had no shortage of money) was the precision
prop. so i asked why. the answer was that they had done
experiments on every kind of pro known and found that they
could produce more push per hp with this prop than with any
other. when i called the prop manufacture we went over
the needs of my project and with his recommendation i
bought the 68 inch prop. he mentioned that he built props
with three different helixes (the twist rate) for
different planes using the same engine. the difference
being is that the twist in the blade should match the
airspeed of the plane. he seemed to know his stuff.
the composite props seem to hold up better when parts go
through the fan. but i guess it is a trade off
efficency for longevity.
my $0.02 worth.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 10/18/00 |
Whadd HE do that I didn't ?? HE got to go for a ride. I got soda pop.
Hmmmmmmmm...............YLA Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "b young" <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 9:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 10/18/00
>
> Tim's a perty nice
> fella, and I guess I'd visit with him, even if he didn't
> bring the soda pop.>>>>>
>
> hay meeky tim didnt bring me any soda and i took him
> for a ride. what did you do that i didnt????
>
> boyd
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Prop experience |
Hi Gang,
I will be purchasing a prop soon. I would like any imput and comparisons
between a Powerfin and a Warp. I understand that Powerfin is developing/has
developed a new blade planform and the test plane is a Firestar II. Does
anyone know any info on this?
Thanks,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
Lucedale, Ms.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Any Prop experience for a VW powered Mark III ?
>
> Herb,
>
> I think you'd be hard pressed to find a wooden prop that will out
> perform a Precision Propellor. They are out of Vernal UT. Mr Reynolds is
> the guys name. Its a 2nd gerneration family business & they a real
> friendly. All their props are ground adjustable, so you won't have to
worry
> about buying the wrong prop, plus you can adjust for climb or cruise or
EGT.
> They use 16 layers of maple wood & each prop is a work of art. They also
> have a unique leading edge option that is a soft polyurethane-- it absorbs
> an amazing amount of shock from nuts, bolts ect. & just bounces back.
They
> offer 2 & 3 blade versions of various configuartions & hp ratings.
> ...Richard Swiderski
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HGRAFF(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, October 19, 2000 12:23 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Any Prop experience for a VW powered Mark III ?
>
>
> >
> >
> > Seems it is time to buy a propeller for our Revmaster VW engine, which
is
> > supposed to get 70 HP out of a 2074 displacement at 3200 RPM. (Got to
run
> 100
> > Octane in it.)
> >
> > What parameters, in the way of a wooden prop, should be specified for
it?
> >
> > If there any experience out there, I would sure love to hear what
length,
> > pitch, Hub thickness, Prop manufacture, $$s, etc., was selected.
> >
> > Also, what level of performance and satisfaction was obtained with your
> prop
> > choice.
> >
> > It will be of interest to find out how you arrived at your choices.
> > Perhaps even mention who was your mentor, because I'm looking for one.
> >
> > Thanks with anticipation, Herb
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ultralight Insurance |
Hey Kolbers, I'm a Kolber wannbe and will be in the next few months. Part of my
insurance says it won't cover me in the event of an accident if my aircraft is
not FAA certified. When in the experimental category can it be FAA certified or
carry an FAA airworthiness certificate?
Monte in Georgetown Tx
mlotts1(at)mmm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good wiring practice |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>Do you have any views about locating starter and battery contactors on the
>cabin side of the firewall? Some RV builders are doing or considering this.
>However the counter argument is that if one fails it would dump toxic smoke
>into the cockpit.
The more compelling reason for putting starter contactor
on firewall is to reduce number of firewall penetrations
of FAT wires . . . you tie the alternator into the system
using in-line fused jumper on the powered side of the battery
contactor (as per diagrams on website and in book). If
you put contactor inside, both starter and alternator wires
have to come through firewall.
>I guess you will have a good view on failure rates, and will know for sure
>whether it's possible for them to create toxic fumes.
>
A whole lot of decisions have been driven by the
toxic fumes scenario in a machine where one is
several orders of magntitude more likely to break
a sweat because of failure of of some appliances due
to poor system architecture and lack of backups.
It's sweating pilots that are more likely to make
poor decisions or find themselves tasked beyond
skills and equipment . . . if you don't smoke in
the cockpit, don't upholster your seats in
double-knit nylon material and use plenty of fuses
to protect little wires, the liklihood of serious
smoke is very close to zero.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Ultralight Insurance |
Hi Monty. Wehave a KolbIII that we built several years ago. Its tail number
is N52BK. You need to go to or call your local FSDO and talk to the
individual who inspects your project. At the end of you project, he/she will
inspect your work and if everything is ok will sign it of and give you an
airworthiness certificate. You will need to contact FAA(oklahoma)for a tail
number. It is then a certificated aircraft.
Bob Kearbey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
mlotts1(at)mmm.com
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2000 6:40 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Ultralight Insurance
Hey Kolbers, I'm a Kolber wannbe and will be in the next few months. Part
of my
insurance says it won't cover me in the event of an accident if my aircraft
is
not FAA certified. When in the experimental category can it be FAA
certified or
carry an FAA airworthiness certificate?
Monte in Georgetown Tx
mlotts1(at)mmm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Prop experience for a VW powered Mark III ? |
I have a 2180cc VW on my Kolb MKIII with 75HP at 3600RPM. I'm using a 60 X 28 two
bladed wood prop. I was mentored by Steve Bennet at Great Plains Aircraft,
who was the supplier of my engine. I selected the longest prop I could run to
get to 3600 RPM using standard calculations to keep the tips from going supersonic.
If you are really getting your rated power at 3200RPM you may want to go
with alonger prop. It might be quieter for my setup if I had selected a 58-59
length but this would reduce my thrust so.... Everything is a trade off. The
28 pitch seems right for my engine but mine is slightly bigger than yours. You
may want to use less pitch to get to the RPMs where your engine get rated power.
You may also want to consider putting a reduction drive on that engine. The reports
I'm getting are that you can expect almost double the thrust with a bigger
(72"- 84") slower turning prop on the same engine at the same RPMs. A number
of us have seen a VW on a 600LB airplane with a 80" prop and reduction drive
climb at almost 45 degrees, VERY impressive.
My concern is that you, like me will not be happy with your direct drive VW performance
in your Kolb.
>>> HGRAFF(at)aol.com 10/19/00 12:23AM >>>
Seems it is time to buy a propeller for our Revmaster VW engine, which is
supposed to get 70 HP out of a 2074 displacement at 3200 RPM. (Got to run 100
Octane in it.)
What parameters, in the way of a wooden prop, should be specified for it?
If there any experience out there, I would sure love to hear what length,
pitch, Hub thickness, Prop manufacture, $$s, etc., was selected.
Also, what level of performance and satisfaction was obtained with your prop
choice.
It will be of interest to find out how you arrived at your choices.
Perhaps even mention who was your mentor, because I'm looking for one.
Thanks with anticipation, Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Prop experience |
John,
Check the archives on Powerfin. I know of at least one very unsatisfied
customer. It appears that Powrfin has had some problems and will not stand by
their warrantee. I have used a Warp myself and have never heard anything bad
about them. I have heard plenty of good things about Warp, so of the two, I
recommend Warp. But for a Firestar II, you can't beat an IVO on an extension.
Any other prop, without the extension, is very loud on a Firestar II.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
SE Wisconsin
John Cooley wrote:
>
> Hi Gang,
> I will be purchasing a prop soon. I would like any imput and comparisons
> between a Powerfin and a Warp. I understand that Powerfin is developing/has
> developed a new blade planform and the test plane is a Firestar II. Does
> anyone know any info on this?
>
> Thanks,
> John Cooley
> Building FS II #1162
> Lucedale, Ms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT's/EGT's on a Rotax 447 |
Bklebon4,
Check the air filter for dirt or wet, and make sure that you choke is able to
come all the way off.
John Jung
Bklebon4(at)cs.com wrote:
>
> During my last few flights I have noticed a marked decrease in CHT and
> EGT temps. Barely 275 on the CHT and 10000 on the EGT. Dual probes, very
> little difference between cylinders. There has also been a noticable increase
> in fuel cunsumption. I am obviously running a richer mixture, but I haven't
> changed anything. I haven't pulled the plugs yet to check them, at this point
> I'm looking for ideas.HELP!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | New Power Distribution Diagram |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
I've had several requests over the past few weeks to incorporate
separate concepts described with individual articles into a power
distribution diagram illustrating their relationships to the whole
airplane.
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/errata.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
> My question is does anyone have a way of removing a rivet that has been
> set inside a 5/16 tube?
Could you ignore it and put another rivet an inch farther away? I
usually have no problem drilling out rivits with a 1/8 drill. I have
drilled out a lot of rivets
>drilling the holes 7/64 inches and using a hand reamer of 1/8 inch in
>diameter. I am getting perfect 1/8 inch holes
Yer building an airplane not a watch. Drill the 1/8 hole and pop a
rivit into it. The rivit swells up and fits whatever size or shape hole you
have within reason.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Prop experience for a VW powered Mark III ? |
One more thing direct drive VWs have a log history of breaking crank shafts when
there is too much prop on the engine. Steve Bennet at Great Plains says as a
guidline use 100% wood and only two blades. But if you do something else and
you get more than 200hrs on the engine he would like to know.
Rick Neilsen VW powered MKIII
Grand Ledge MI
>>> HGRAFF(at)aol.com 10/19/00 12:23AM >>>
Seems it is time to buy a propeller for our Revmaster VW engine, which is
supposed to get 70 HP out of a 2074 displacement at 3200 RPM. (Got to run 100
Octane in it.)
What parameters, in the way of a wooden prop, should be specified for it?
If there any experience out there, I would sure love to hear what length,
pitch, Hub thickness, Prop manufacture, $$s, etc., was selected.
Also, what level of performance and satisfaction was obtained with your prop
choice.
It will be of interest to find out how you arrived at your choices.
Perhaps even mention who was your mentor, because I'm looking for one.
Thanks with anticipation, Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>How did my name "brother Mills" get linked to the
>building / drawings & manuale issue/mess?
I think ( but I could be wrong so don't jump on me in case I am) that you
tagged your political position onto an ongoing subject line. It may be
better (again this is only my opinion) if you want to post something like
that then you should have a separate subject heading.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
Looking at the kit price of $15,000 for the MarkIII extra. what if the
price after you add the instruments, ect, i need to know what the final
price after completed.
thanks Paul Robinson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Annamarie <vincentam(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Drudge/Airstrip |
I have an exceptionally noisy Rotax 503 (my previous 503 was not as
noisy).
To help quiet the Rotax would it be sufficient to just put the after
muffler on or would it require both the after muffler and intake
silencer? I would like to preserve my horsepower; I am hoping just the
after muffler will help.
What do you suggest?
Bill Vincent
Quinnesec, Michigan
Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> Yup, it's Matt Drudge.
> http://www.drudgereport.com
> Politically incorrect, his page specializes in the latest DC snafu's, has
> links to all the international news wires.
>
> Now for the Kolb stuff: I have had my own airstrip since 1983, it is in a
> hayfield right next to a subdivision, and it would be very easy to make
> myself unpopular. But with a lot of discretion, I have been able to make it
> work.
>
> Noise/nuisance factor: I have always had either an intake silencer or an
> aftermuffler on all my Rotax powered craft, the after muffler takes away no
> horsepower, the intake silencer does. If you have neighbors close at all,
> quiet is good. I let it be known to anybody who might use my strip that
> because of the subdivision, there is no "local flying", if any of my
> friends come over, they know to fly over the fields away from the houses,
> come straight in and land. Take offs the same way, fly away from the
> subdivision and leave. Uninvited "drop-ins" are forbidden, not being
> unsocial, but I have learned the hard way that idiots can ruin things for
> you quickly. Remember the Wizard, used a Yamaha 100cc engine with a tuned
> pipe? LOUD. And the dimwit that had it flew three laps around the
> subdivision at 50', waving to everybody before he landed at my strip. And
> Boy did we get phone calls!!! (People thought it was me, non-flyers think
> all u/l's are the same) I told him if he ever came near again I would
> personally call the FAA and the sheriff.
>
> Big consideration of any proposed strip is overflight: what does the
> approach/departure area look like? If the engine quits during the first 30
> seconds after takeoff, what will that do to you?
>
> Prevailing wind: One of the locals that bought my old Hummer had himself a
> strip that laid crossways to the wind with a couple big knobs upwind to
> create turbulence. Result: one hanger queen Hummer.
>
> Length: I have 750' but you takeoff downhill into the prevailing wind and
> land uphill with a tailwind. Since there is a treeline at the uphill end,
> there is no choice. That is about the minimum for having a good safe
> margin, I would like a little more.
>
> Obstacles: what you can takeoff and clear on a cool fall day with a 5 knot
> headwind is really different than what happens in July with a 5 knot
> tailwind, give yourself enough margin. A 99% success rate is unacceptable.
>
> Do any of your proposed neighbors raise chickens or turkeys? Don't laugh,
> you could be hated/in court/shot at the day after you first fly. Around
> here, it's fighting roosters. When you fly over those yards back up in the
> hollers' where they have all the individual little pens, you can see those
> birds go nuts, flailing, beating, thrashing around, and anybody that raises
> fighting roosters could probably also raise small arms fire. (Hey, it's the
> mountains of Tennessee, folks take the health of their fighting chickens
> seriously...)
>
> Restrictive local laws: Virginia regulates everything, (Virginia is for
> Bureaucrats) Tennessee could care less, check it out where you live. And
> the FAA requires you to tell them if you use any "landing area" for more
> than 30 days, big fine if you don't, they find out, and they have no bigger
> fish to fry. They just send you a form, fill it out and send it back, they
> really don't care, they just need the count to sustain their budget.
> Besides, if some idiot local zoning board comes along some day and tries to
> close you down, if you make and keep a copy of the FAA's annual update
> form, you can prove that you have been a "registered airport" for a long
> time, plan ahead.
>
> 19 acres sounds wonderful, plan to buy a good mower with a big deck and
> take good care of it. We have a normal size house & lot next to the
> hayfield, I think our strip is only around an acre.
> Hope this is what you wanted, enjoy your farm and airstrip.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> Kingsport, Tn
>
> >
> >Is Drudge his real name--that's a cool name. I am looking for a house
> >and farm to put in a landing strip--to all you guys who have your own
> >place--what would you recommend--we are ready to make an offer on 19 acres.
> > My wife is close to soloing and we are looking forward to flying again.
> > I painted the new old frame cage and removed the old gear legs sleeves
> >and I am ready to re assemble and recover. Should be a couple weeks and I
> >can be in the air again. Original Firestar, St. Paul MN Dale Seitzer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re:Quieter/power |
The after muffler will help. Try that first, if you need quieter, then do
the intake silencer, but you will then lose some power.
Figure it out, look at the CPS jet chart, it shows smaller main jets for
the engines with the intake silencers. The only reason for going to smaller
jets is you are pumping less air. If there is less air, there is less
horsepower.
Horsepower is a function of how much fuel/air mixture you are burning, if
the airflow is less, and the jet chart indicates that it is, the horsepower
has to be less. The CPS jet chart shows no jet change for the aftermuffler,
that is a good sign that the horsepower has not changed. Noise on a Kolb is
frequently a function of how close the prop is to the trailing edge of the
wing, the quietest setup is an Ivo with a 3" extension to move it away from
the wing.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I have an exceptionally noisy Rotax 503 (my previous 503 was not as
>noisy).
>
>To help quiet the Rotax would it be sufficient to just put the after
>muffler on or would it require both the after muffler and intake
>silencer? I would like to preserve my horsepower; I am hoping just the
>after muffler will help.
>
>What do you suggest?
>
>Bill Vincent
>Quinnesec, Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Source for 8mm prop bolts? |
Hello list,
I am nearing the completion of my Mark III and was hooping to run the engine
for the first time this coming week. However, as my daughter and I were
installing the Ivo prop we soon discovered that the 8 MM bolts that were
shipped with the prop were too short. Now I need some new longer 8 MM prop
bolts and nylocs. Anyone know of a good source for these.
Thanks again,
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Mark III - 912
N308JB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for 8mm prop bolts? |
I had the same problem, called Ivo, told them what I needed, exchanged them
out.
Ivo has them, they just don't always ship the right length the first time.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hello list,
>
>I am nearing the completion of my Mark III and was hooping to run the engine
>for the first time this coming week. However, as my daughter and I were
>installing the Ivo prop we soon discovered that the 8 MM bolts that were
>shipped with the prop were too short. Now I need some new longer 8 MM prop
>bolts and nylocs. Anyone know of a good source for these.
>
>Thanks again,
>
>John Bickham
>St. Francisville, LA
>Mark III - 912
>N308JB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Drudge/Airstrip |
>
>I have an exceptionally noisy Rotax 503 (my previous 503 was not as
>noisy).
>
>To help quiet the Rotax would it be sufficient to just put the after
>muffler on or would it require both the after muffler and intake
>silencer? I would like to preserve my horsepower; I am hoping just the
>after muffler will help.
>
>What do you suggest?
>
>Bill Vincent
>Quinnesec, Michigan
>
I have tried both before and after silencers on 447 on a Firefly. The
before silencer gave an impressive amount of noise suppression. I did not
notice that much difference when adding the after silencer. I believe that
is in part because it runs the exhaust outlet foward closer to the pilot.
I did not notice any reduction in power. The intake silencer is tuned and
if anything may improve engine breathing.
I removed the after silencer because I didn't think it was worth the weight
for what I was getting. I removed the before silencer because I could not
figure out how to keep it on. No installation kit comes with the 447
intake silencer, and I found out why. The struts and brackets I made kept
breaking due to the vibration loads. Also one could not fold the wings
with the intake silencer attached.
To reduce the noise level to my ears, I changed from a full face hard
helmet with ear plugs to a soft flying helmet with allows me to wear my
radio headset and goggles. Saved about five pounds and reduced the noise
level to a very tolerable level.
Jack B. Hart
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good wiring practice - ERROR CORRECTION |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>>Do you have any views about locating starter and battery contactors on the
>>cabin side of the firewall? Some RV builders are doing or considering this.
>>However the counter argument is that if one fails it would dump toxic smoke
>>into the cockpit.
>
> The more compelling reason for putting starter contactor
> on firewall is to reduce number of firewall penetrations
> of FAT wires . . . you tie the alternator into the system
> using in-line fused jumper on the powered side of the STARTER [was
"battery"]
> contactor (as per diagrams on website and in book). If
> you put contactor inside, both starter and alternator wires
> have to come through firewall.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different from )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Engine silencer |
Bill,
The intake silencer significantly helps attenuate the noise coming out of the
carbs. What I like about the after muffler silencer is it keeps the hot
gases from directly hitting the prop and the sound is different.
Dave and I use the intake silencer on both our FireStar's Rotax 503 with no
noticeable loss in horsepower but our field elevation is 4000'. On my
FireStar we originally installed the intake silencer with the air filter on
the bottom pointing towards the rear but I couldn't fold the wing. We turned
it around with the air filter on top and pointing forward so the wing
wouldn't hit the filter during folding of the wing. We didn't buy the
optional mounting bracket for the intake silencer, we secure it with safety
wire.
http://members.aol.com/cesaru/KolbFSII/246.jpg
http://members.aol.com/cesaru/KolbFSII/268.jpg
I think the intake silencer will help your noise problem better then the
after muffler silencer.
Just my opinion,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
In a message dated 10/20/00 10:47:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
vincentam(at)chartermi.net writes:
> I have an exceptionally noisy Rotax 503 (my previous 503 was not as
> noisy).
>
> To help quiet the Rotax would it be sufficient to just put the after
> muffler on or would it require both the after muffler and intake
> silencer? I would like to preserve my horsepower; I am hoping just the
> after muffler will help.
>
> What do you suggest?
>
> Bill Vincent
> Quinnesec, Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Quieter/power |
I agree, Dave tried my Ivo on his FireStar before I installed it in my plane.
He said it was a lot quieter and smother then his wooden prop but he lost
performance. When he installed his new Power fin prop it still had some kind
of thumping noise until he installed the 3" extension. The 3" extension also
moves the prop away from the exhaust gases.
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
In a message dated 10/20/00 11:41:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
richard(at)BCChapel.org writes:
> Noise on a Kolb is
> frequently a function of how close the prop is to the trailing edge of the
> wing, the quietest setup is an Ivo with a 3" extension to move it away from
> the wing.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Source for 8mm prop bolts? |
I got mine from Metric Screw and Fastener near Pittsburgh, PA. Phone
412-487-4989.
They had em long enough for my IVO extention plus a thick wood prop on the
503 0n my Loehle.
Good Luck,
Denny
-----Original Message-----
From: BICUM(at)aol.com <BICUM(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, October 21, 2000 6:59 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Source for 8mm prop bolts?
>
>Hello list,
>
>I am nearing the completion of my Mark III and was hooping to run the
engine
>for the first time this coming week. However, as my daughter and I were
>installing the Ivo prop we soon discovered that the 8 MM bolts that were
>shipped with the prop were too short. Now I need some new longer 8 MM prop
>bolts and nylocs. Anyone know of a good source for these.
>
>Thanks again,
>
>John Bickham
>St. Francisville, LA
>Mark III - 912
>N308JB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Source for 8mm prop bolts? |
John,
You can try your local nuts and bolts wholesale store.
My Ivo prop uses 8mm x 130mm x 1.25 metric pitch, metric grade 8.8 (equiv. US
grade 5)
Ivo's recommendation is not use nylox on the bolts if the flange is threaded
because there is a chance you could back the torque off.
I would rather safety wire the bolt heads but Ivo says If you use safety wire
you will not check the torque so often. They also say it is more important to
maintain the torque on the Ivoprop.
Hope this helps,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
In a message dated 10/21/00 6:53:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, BICUM(at)aol.com
writes:
> I am nearing the completion of my Mark III and was hooping to run the
engine
> for the first time this coming week. However, as my daughter and I were
> installing the Ivo prop we soon discovered that the 8 MM bolts that were
> shipped with the prop were too short. Now I need some new longer 8 MM
prop
> bolts and nylocs. Anyone know of a good source for these.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> John Bickham
> St. Francisville, LA
> Mark III - 912
> N308JB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Would like to see! |
Is there anyone within 100 to 150 miles of Rapid City who has either a
Firestar or Firefly? I'd like to visit with you and see your plane. I'm
really concerned about being able to reach the rudder pedals. I'm 5'2" and
have short legs! I'm learning to fly in a Flightstar II, and have to have a
7' cushion behind my back, and 2X4's placed on the rudder pedals in order to
reach them. With all that its still a chore sometimes getting full rudder
pedal deflection at times. I've just about decieded on what airplane I want,
either a Firestar or Firefly, can't make up my mind!
Jerry in SD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | 447 Heat Resolved |
Kolbers:
Problem with this 447 heat turned out to be pulse line air leak, I think...
Pulled the made in Hanoi plastic clamps off and replaced with stainless per
suggestion of someone on this list earlier in the week... cannot recall who
you were, but that was it...bless 'yer heart... thanks...
Had the plastic clamps as tight as I could possibly get them using pliers...
hose would still rotate slightly on fitting... but not after the steel ones
were installed... Kolb works take note... IMHO would be well worth raising
the cost of the kits a buck or two to get rid of those sorry plastic fuel
/pulse line clamps...
Skip Staub assisted in resetting the IVO for a few more turns... does 6300
static now... and we went to fly...
EGT's stayed down below 1100 regardless of throttle play... Head temps
stayed in mid 300's... Solid. The temps went down and became stable
there, despite the higher static revs we tuned in on prop... Only other
factor changed was the tightening of the lines with the new steel clamps...
no metering rod or jet changes... seems pretty clear to me the determining
element here was the better clamps sealing off leaks...'cause the prop
adjustment should have caused them to go higher, not lower... Thoughts,
anyone...?
Skip's pretty 180 hp Swift had a tough time keeping up with the supercooled
Fly on the test hop, but I pulled back the power so he could get by to go
home.... Later in the afternoon played on the grass in the crosswind a
little while to feel this toy out some more... am impressed with the control
authority of Firefly in the fairly poopy (for UL) little x-wind today... was
70 to 90 degrees across runway puffing about 8-12 or so over some
t-hangars.... The Fly hops around some with the burbles, but overall it
hangs in there right well... and one never gets the feeling it is on the
verge of getting away from you because you are running out of control
effectiveness... at least not today.... (...mebbe it bite later when Tonto
overpush envelope in little bigger x-wind...) Rudder is especially
powerful... Am NOT impressed with the itty bitty wheels and tires taxiing
across ruts... got bogged in crossing over some just moderate sized ones
attempting to get out onto the grass strip from the taxiway today... power
only brings the tail up... sure won't make those little tires roll over
those ruts... I think some substantially bigger wheels are in this Fly's
future... soon.
Thanks again to all the Kolbers who offered inputs on the heat problem...
Kool Beauford... FF076 ... still gassy, but well below 1200 for the
moment....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Would like to see! |
Hi Jerry and Gang,
If you order a new plane from The New Kolb Co. you can get them to move
the rudder pedals back to the next cross member in the frame. Just guessing
off the top of my head I would say it moves them back about six to eight
inches. Will Uribe of this list has or had photos of a Kolb owned by Tim
Loehrke that has this modification. This is in a Firestar. Don't know about
the Firefly but TNK can probably work something out for you. If you buy a
kit from someone that needs assembling you should be able to move the pedals
back yourself and have a certified welder do the welding.
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
----- Original Message -----
From: <Flyul01(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 3:34 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Would like to see!
>
> Is there anyone within 100 to 150 miles of Rapid City who has either a
> Firestar or Firefly? I'd like to visit with you and see your plane. I'm
> really concerned about being able to reach the rudder pedals. I'm 5'2" and
> have short legs! I'm learning to fly in a Flightstar II, and have to have
a
> 7' cushion behind my back, and 2X4's placed on the rudder pedals in order
to
> reach them. With all that its still a chore sometimes getting full rudder
> pedal deflection at times. I've just about decieded on what airplane I
want,
> either a Firestar or Firefly, can't make up my mind!
>
> Jerry in SD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keeboman2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: markIIIextra |
please unsubscribe
thanks to everyone
keebo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net> |
I thought I read an E-Mail about someone with a VW doing a 45 degree climb
out. I may have the wrong combo, but would certainly like to talk to anyone
who has had that type of success with a VW regardless.
If anyone remembers where they witnessed this feat please let me know and I
will do further follow-up.
Julian Warren,
Eugene, Oregon
Why pay for something you could get for free?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MitchMnD(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly Wheels |
Beauford et al,
Those Aspirin-sized wheels that came with my FireFly kit are strictly for
weight savings. They also cause less drag and no one makes brakes for them so
you also save the weight of the brakes whether you want to or not.
I used the small wheels with no brakes for about the first ten hours. Then I
met the biggest Stearman I ever saw coming around the corner of a hangar one
day and decided brakes were essential. I built a set of band brakes from
go-cart parts and went for another 20 hours before I decided to go to bigger
wheels. I bought a set of Azusa 8"x 13" aluminum spinner wheels, tires and
tubes from Southeast Regional Ultralight Supply (912) 941-2490 and haven't
had a bad landing since ( well maybe one or two). The cost was about $115 and
well worth it. My weight went up some and my drag went up a little but I can
land in fields that would surely nose my Fly over and on its back.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FireFly SN 007, 447, Ivo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel & Oil Lines |
I gotta sympathize with you, Beauford. I'm at the stage of plumbing the oil
& fuel lines on Vamoose, ( no, still haven't covered the thing, but will
start soon ) and have given a lot of thought to configurations. You guys on
the List have made me real spooky about clear, sorta clear, and colored
clear fuel lines, etc., so they're out of the running. I really like the
steel braid covered hoses, and while the hose itself is quite spendy, it's
not completely out of reach. What kills it is the price of the fittings. I
don't think it would be too difficult to spend $300 - $500.00 - just on the
fittings ! ! ! Ridiculous ! ! ! The simulated stuff with the slip-on
braid covered hose, and the cups/hose clamps on the end seems to be
acceptable to people I've talked to, but I'm not real happy about those
little 1/4" drive hose clamps that go with them. Over the years, I've
broken many of those things, with light to moderate pressure. Now, in the
course of my work, there have been many times that I've used the special
clamps the Coca-Cola & Pepsi dispensers use on the braid re-inforced plastic
tubing. They're a ring clamp with an overlap to protect the hose, and a
sort of "hump" on one side. They come in all sizes. Slide the clamp into
position, crush the hump with a pair of dykes, (side cutters) and they pull
up rock solid. Absolutely no slippage. Only problem is getting them off -
I generally use a Dremel tool with a carbide wheel. I imagine you could cut
the hump right off with a sharp pair of cutters, but haven't tried it. I
plan on using 2 of those per barb, and am debating the idea of slipping a
piece of colored heat shrink tubing over the hose before crimping. Slip the
tubing over the completed end, and shrink it tight. It would look quite
good, and protect the cut end of the hose. Generally, if you catch the Coke
or Pepsi technician at his truck, a polite request will net you a handful of
the clamps. I'm not sure where to look to buy them. P.S. That
Dremel tool with the cutting wheel does the best job I've ever seen of
cutting that steel braid covered hose. Big Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 2:59 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 447 Heat Resolved
>
> Kolbers:
> Problem with this 447 heat turned out to be pulse line air leak, I
think...
> Pulled the made in Hanoi plastic clamps off and replaced with stainless
per
> suggestion of someone on this list earlier in the week... cannot recall
who
> you were, but that was it...bless 'yer heart... thanks...
>
> Had the plastic clamps as tight as I could possibly get them using
pliers...
> hose would still rotate slightly on fitting... but not after the steel
ones
> were installed... Kolb works take note... IMHO would be well worth
raising
> the cost of the kits a buck or two to get rid of those sorry plastic fuel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
I just re-read my last message about the hose clamps, and might should make
1 more small point. I'm not advcocating that everyone go out and buy the
high priced hose, even tho' I plan on it.. I think that no matter which
hose you use, the Pepsi Clamps will be superior to almost anything else out
there. Sure, they're a bitch to get off, but how often do you take them off
?? I'm real interested in things staying tight while I'm in the air - if I
ever get there. Speaking of which - it looks like I'll be getting a couple
of weeks extra vacation next month, and it sure would be nice to take
Vamoose. Unfortunately, she ( he, it ?? ) won't fly too well without
fabric, so am stuck with the ground bound 'Bird. Gonna make at least one
big loop up thru parts of Nevada and Utah, that I haven't seen yet. Folks,
there is some really spectacular country up there.
Ground Poundin' Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Would like to see! |
I weigh close to 200 pounds, and my CG of my Firefly is toward the back
limit. I believe it might be best for you to move your seat forward to
keep your CG more centered. If you can get into a Firefly, take wheel
weights and do the CG calculations it should help you determine what you
should do to keep the CG centered.
I have short legs and I used cushions to get me forward, but then I got to
looking and I realized that I could take the rivets out of the lower back
part of the seat and raise up the back of the seat and make a true sling
seat. I have been flying with the sling seat for the last two hours and it
is working well. I got rid of three pounds of cushions.
Jack B. Hart
Jackson, MO FF-004
>
>Is there anyone within 100 to 150 miles of Rapid City who has either a
>Firestar or Firefly? I'd like to visit with you and see your plane. I'm
>really concerned about being able to reach the rudder pedals. I'm 5'2" and
>have short legs! I'm learning to fly in a Flightstar II, and have to have a
>7' cushion behind my back, and 2X4's placed on the rudder pedals in order to
>reach them. With all that its still a chore sometimes getting full rudder
>pedal deflection at times. I've just about decieded on what airplane I want,
>either a Firestar or Firefly, can't make up my mind!
>
>Jerry in SD
>
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Lines |
You guys on
> the List have made me real spooky about clear, sorta clear, and colored
> clear fuel lines, etc., so they're out of the running. Big Lar.
Big Lar and Kolbers:
I use Gates 1/4" ID neophrene (sp) fuel line. It works and
has a lot more life than urethane, clear, or whatever. It
is not as prone to crimp from tight bends and UV does not
require that it be replaced nearly as often as the clear or
blue stuff. I don't know what the difference in weight is,
but probably not much. I try to use aircraft aluminum 1/8"
pipe X 1/4" ID hose barbs and secure the hose to the barbs
with SS hose clamps. This system is reliable, cheap,
locally available as the nearest auto parts store, less the
aircraft fittings, of course. Those can be obtained from
Aircraft Spruce or any of the other mail order aircraft
parts houses.
For years I used the clear or blue stuff because that is
what everybody else used on ultralights. I bet my "buns" on
the old fashioned black neophrene now.
I did have some of the blue stuff on the MK III from 1992
until this Spring. It was a carry over from the 582 I
originally had installed. This particular fuel line was
inside the fuselage, under the fuel tank, out of the light
and UV. It survived the years, and was reasonably
serviceable when I pulled it out. However, any of this
stuff that is exposed to UV does not have a very long life
span.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Would like to see! |
A FireStar for short legged drivers is doable.
Unfortunately I'm running out of web space so I had to remove most of the
pictures I had posted of other Kolbs.
I uploaded the picture John is talking about but I think the old Kolb company
welded an extra cross member for the rudder pedals.
The picture below shows Tim's FireStar, rudder pedals, modification and for
comparing I also posted a picture of my rudder pedals.
Note the extra cross member between the original and the brake pedals.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/tl19.jpg
http://members.aol.com/guillermou/229.jpg
Hope this helps,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
In a message dated 10/21/00 6:49:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
johnc(at)datasync.com writes:
> Hi Jerry and Gang,
> If you order a new plane from The New Kolb Co. you can get them to move
> the rudder pedals back to the next cross member in the frame. Just guessing
> off the top of my head I would say it moves them back about six to eight
> inches. Will Uribe of this list has or had photos of a Kolb owned by Tim
> Loehrke that has this modification. This is in a Firestar. Don't know about
> the Firefly but TNK can probably work something out for you. If you buy a
> kit from someone that needs assembling you should be able to move the
pedals
> back yourself and have a certified welder do the welding.
>
> Later,
> John Cooley
> Building FS II #1162
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Flyul01(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 3:34 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Would like to see!
>
>
> >
> > Is there anyone within 100 to 150 miles of Rapid City who has either a
> > Firestar or Firefly? I'd like to visit with you and see your plane. I'm
> > really concerned about being able to reach the rudder pedals. I'm 5'2"
and
> > have short legs! I'm learning to fly in a Flightstar II, and have to have
> a
> > 7' cushion behind my back, and 2X4's placed on the rudder pedals in order
> to
> > reach them. With all that its still a chore sometimes getting full rudder
> > pedal deflection at times. I've just about decieded on what airplane I
> want,
> > either a Firestar or Firefly, can't make up my mind!
> >
> > Jerry in SD
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Beauford's Firefly |
I was looking at some old pictures and found this one Beauford's Firefly.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Kolb1.jpg
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beauford's Firefly |
Yah, and that's butchered aluminum, eh ?? And cat-peed fabric. Must have
him a rainbow cat. Nice job, Beauford, mine should look so good.
Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 10:38 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Beauford's Firefly
>
> I was looking at some old pictures and found this one Beauford's Firefly.
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Kolb1.jpg
>
> Regards,
> Will Uribe
> El Paso, TX
> FireStar II N4GU
> http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 447 Heat Resolved |
Beauford,
I'll take credit for the solution to the heat problem. Here is what I said:
"You might as well eliminate a pulse line leak as a problem before you fly
again. Get good black gas line, of fuel injection line and use those stainless
connectors with worm gears in them. Make sure that they are tight enough that
you cannot rotate the connections and they will not leak."
John Jung
Beauford Tuton wrote:
>
> Kolbers:
> Problem with this 447 heat turned out to be pulse line air leak, I think...
> Pulled the made in Hanoi plastic clamps off and replaced with stainless per
> suggestion of someone on this list earlier in the week... cannot recall who
> you were, but that was it...bless 'yer heart... thanks...
>
> Had the plastic clamps as tight as I could possibly get them using pliers...
> hose would still rotate slightly on fitting... but not after the steel ones
> were installed... Kolb works take note... IMHO would be well worth raising
> the cost of the kits a buck or two to get rid of those sorry plastic fuel
> /pulse line clamps...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Kolb fly-in pictures |
I finally got around to posting pictures of the Kolb fly-in. Lets see who
can spot themselves in the pictures.
Pictures of the food table.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231495.JPG
AOL users click here
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231496.JPG
AOL users click here
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231497.JPG
AOL users click here
The fabric covering workshop given by Aircraft Technical Support.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231493.JPG
AOL users click here
Picture of Homer Kolb with a very distinguish list member.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231474.JPG
AOL users click here
In the back ground to the right you can almost see a new kit someone just
picked up
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231460.JPG
AOL users click here
I like this paint job.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231458.JPG
AOL users click here
Enjoy,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Annamarie <vincentam(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Engine silencer |
Thank you everyone who responded to my noisy Rotax 503 problem. I will
try some of your ideas, and hopefully I will have quieter flights...I
may even be able to hear myself think!
Will, thanks for sharing your pictures with us; they are a big help.
Bill Vincent
Quinnesec, Michigan
WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Bill,
> The intake silencer significantly helps attenuate the noise coming out of the
> carbs. What I like about the after muffler silencer is it keeps the hot
> gases from directly hitting the prop and the sound is different.
> Dave and I use the intake silencer on both our FireStar's Rotax 503 with no
> noticeable loss in horsepower but our field elevation is 4000'. On my
> FireStar we originally installed the intake silencer with the air filter on
> the bottom pointing towards the rear but I couldn't fold the wing. We turned
> it around with the air filter on top and pointing forward so the wing
> wouldn't hit the filter during folding of the wing. We didn't buy the
> optional mounting bracket for the intake silencer, we secure it with safety
> wire.
> http://members.aol.com/cesaru/KolbFSII/246.jpg
> http://members.aol.com/cesaru/KolbFSII/268.jpg
>
> I think the intake silencer will help your noise problem better then the
> after muffler silencer.
>
> Just my opinion,
> Will Uribe
> El Paso, TX
> http://members.aol.com/WillU/index.html
>
> In a message dated 10/20/00 10:47:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> vincentam(at)chartermi.net writes:
>
> > I have an exceptionally noisy Rotax 503 (my previous 503 was not as
> > noisy).
> >
> > To help quiet the Rotax would it be sufficient to just put the after
> > muffler on or would it require both the after muffler and intake
> > silencer? I would like to preserve my horsepower; I am hoping just the
> > after muffler will help.
> >
> > What do you suggest?
> >
> > Bill Vincent
> > Quinnesec, Michigan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Annamarie <vincentam(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb fly-in pictures |
Sure looks like everyone had a great time.
A few of us ultralight pilots flew for breakfast Saturday morning and
Scott Trask was with us. Scott told us how much fun he had at the Kolb
fly-in. Hopefully, in the future I will be able to get there and meet
some of you!
WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I finally got around to posting pictures of the Kolb fly-in. Lets see who
> can spot themselves in the pictures.
>
> Pictures of the food table.
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231495.JPG
> AOL users click here
>
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231496.JPG
> AOL users click here
>
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231497.JPG
> AOL users click here
>
>
> The fabric covering workshop given by Aircraft Technical Support.
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231493.JPG
> AOL users click here
>
>
> Picture of Homer Kolb with a very distinguish list member.
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231474.JPG
> AOL users click here
>
>
> In the back ground to the right you can almost see a new kit someone just
> picked up
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231460.JPG
> AOL users click here
>
>
> I like this paint job.
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P9231458.JPG
> AOL users click here
>
>
> Enjoy,
> Will Uribe
> El Paso, TX
> FireStar II N4GU
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Engine Silencer |
> hopefully I will have quieter flights...I
> may even be able to hear myself think!
> Bill Vincent
Bill and gang:
Only when you find out how to silence the prop. That is
where most of your noise is coming from.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 22 Msgs - 10/21/00 |
In a message dated 10/22/00 3:01:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< I have short legs and I used cushions to get me forward, but then I got to
looking and I realized that I could take the rivets out of the lower back
part of the seat and raise up the back of the seat and make a true sling
seat. I have been flying with the sling seat for the last two hours and it
is working well. I got rid of three pounds of cushions.
>>
I wouldn't part with my sling seat ...which I put in from the git go in 92 in
my Firestar.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 912 w/ EIS Install Questions |
Boyd and the List,
I am putting the finishing touches on my Mark III. Hope to run the engine
real soon if I can get all these questions figured out.
I am installing an EIS on my 912. I have been very happy with the guidance
and instructions on the plans and the manual on the plane. However, the
instructions for installing the 912 that came from the Old Kolb are basically
a few pictures and I'm struggling through it. The instructions that came
with the EIS aren't a lot better. There are no 912 installations in the
immediate area so I'm on my own.
Question #1 - What type of terminal or connector do you use to connect on to
the oil temp sensor? It has a tiny little brass mushroom that I'm not sure
what the best method for connection is.
Question #2 - I'm supposed to take the two CHT sensors out and use one for
coolant temp. I'm making an educated guess and assume that the sensor should
be on the hose running from the collection bottle on top back to the
radiator. This would be the highest temp of the system. What type of
fitting would I use that will couple the 1" hose and have a 10 mm threaded
nut for the sensor to screw into?
Any help would be appreciated. Who is the closest to me with a 912 and EIS
combo? I'm going on the phone in the morning with the EIS people but thought
I'd seek your expertise too.
Thanks as always,
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Mark III - 912
N308JB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
| Subject: | 912 w/ EIS Install Questions |
Boyd
#1. A female spade wire connector will fit on the oil temp sensor, don't
remember what size.
#2. Water temp sensor is not real necessary as head temp will monitor the
same thing. I did install one by using a brass elbow in the 1" the hose for
the engine to the radiator, found in the plumbing dept of a hardware store.
The elbow was square, which allowed me to drill, tap and install one of the
sensors. If I recall correctly the threads of the sensor were long enough
for me to install a nut on the inside of the fitting. I doubt if the
overflow would be very accurate since the flow volume is very minimal.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BICUM(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 1:29 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: 912 w/ EIS Install Questions
Boyd and the List,
I am putting the finishing touches on my Mark III. Hope to run the engine
real soon if I can get all these questions figured out.
I am installing an EIS on my 912. I have been very happy with the guidance
and instructions on the plans and the manual on the plane. However, the
instructions for installing the 912 that came from the Old Kolb are
basically
a few pictures and I'm struggling through it. The instructions that came
with the EIS aren't a lot better. There are no 912 installations in the
immediate area so I'm on my own.
Question #1 - What type of terminal or connector do you use to connect on to
the oil temp sensor? It has a tiny little brass mushroom that I'm not sure
what the best method for connection is.
Question #2 - I'm supposed to take the two CHT sensors out and use one for
coolant temp. I'm making an educated guess and assume that the sensor
should
be on the hose running from the collection bottle on top back to the
radiator. This would be the highest temp of the system. What type of
fitting would I use that will couple the 1" hose and have a 10 mm threaded
nut for the sensor to screw into?
Any help would be appreciated. Who is the closest to me with a 912 and EIS
combo? I'm going on the phone in the morning with the EIS people but
thought
I'd seek your expertise too.
Thanks as always,
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Mark III - 912
N308JB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerken(at)us.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Powerfin vs Warp prop |
>John,
>Check the archives on Powerfin. I know of at least one very unsatisfied
>customer. It appears that Powrfin has had some problems and will not stand
by
>their warrantee. I have used a Warp myself and have never heard anything
bad
>about them. I have heard plenty of good things about Warp, so of the two,
I
>recommend Warp. But for a Firestar II, you can't beat an IVO on an
extension.
>Any other prop, without the extension, is very loud on a Firestar II.
>John Jung
>Firestar II N6163J
>SE Wisconsin
>John Cooley wrote:
>>
>> Hi Gang,
>> I will be purchasing a prop soon. I would like any imput and
comparisons
>> between a Powerfin and a Warp. I understand that Powerfin is
developing/has
>> developed a new blade planform and the test plane is a Firestar II. Does
>> anyone know any info on this?
John, I couldn't resist responding, especially since this was the only
on-List response you received to your Warp vs. PowerFin question. I have
run Powerfin since before anyone heard of them. I would have purchased
Warp except for the weight. A three-blade Warp exceeds Rotax requirements
for inertial mass for their "B" box. Warp is an outstanding prop, tougher
than any other I know of. But are we flying or weed-wacking out there?
With normal use, a prop does not usually ingest spark plugs and bolts, so
how much toughness is overkill in the form of weight? Powerfin is made by
Stuart Gort, a very friendly, open, honest guy who you can call anytime and
get a straight answer. He will give you as much technical detail as you
can swallow. Stuart has worked for Ivo prop as a ?Quality Engineer? and
has purposely designed the Powerfin to have flexibility and mass between
Ivo and Warp. So you see you now have the full range from which to choose-
Ivo is lightest but flexes a lot, Powerfin flexes less and weighs a little
more, Warp flexes even less and is the heaviest. Also, read the CPS
article on rotational inertia before deciding. And give a call to each of
the three and get their recommendations. That in itself will be an
interesting education.
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 w/ EIS Install Questions |
Morning John and Kolbers:
I'll try and answer your questions, although I do not use
the EIS System.
> Question #1 - What type of terminal or connector do you use to connect on to
> the oil temp sensor?
Aircraft Spruce Catalog, on page 373, calls the connectors
PIDG FASTON. I call them "push on". They are the same as
came with the small parts bag that came in you Rotax 912
engine card board box. Same as the push on connectors for
the regulator/rectifier. All your temperature senders use
the same size: 1/4 inch. Simply push them right on the
little mushrooms as though they were tabs.
> Question #2 - I'm supposed to take the two CHT sensors out and use one for
> coolant temp. > John Bickham
I was lucky to get a seat in Erick Tucker's 912 Course last
January. Erick states there is no need to monitor coolant
temp. For the 912 we are interested in Cylinder Head Metal
Temp and Engine Oil Temp. The two senders in the number 2
and number 3 cylinder heads do not measure coolant temps,
but the temp of the metal of the cylinder head. Normally,
only need to monitor the cylinder head that will run the
hottest. In the pusher configuration that will be the
number 2 cyl head. We are not concerned what the coolant
temp is. No where in the owner's or shop manual for the
912, 912S, or 914, are there limits or reference to coolant
temps. Here's what the Rotax 912 Shop Manual says on page
111:
"The two sensors for cylinders 2 and 3 are screwed into the
bottom side of the cylinder heads. On the cylinder head
only the material temperature of the head is measured and
not the temperature of the cooling liquid. The operational
temperature is 194F to 250F and must not exceed 300F."
So, it really makes no difference where the sensor is
located, if you still want to measure and monitor temp of
cooling liquid. The important temp is cyl head metal temp,
not to exceed 300F. However, Rotax did an operational test
of the 912 without cooling liquid, i.e., loss of radiator
hose, header tank cap, for a period of two hours. The 912
suffered no damage during the test. Remember, only the
heads are cooled with liquid. Most of the cooling of the
engine is from engine oil. Should you blow a radiator hose
in flight, do not shut the engine down. Come back on the
power. A slight reduction in power makes a lot of
difference in cyl head temps. Don't break your airplane and
hurt yourself to save the expensive 912. It has happened
more than once. Of course, if you have a field made, use
your discretion and shut it down or let it run. I
personally will not shut my 912S down. Most 912 powered
Kolb aircraft will will fly at very low power settings.
John, if you have any questions, give me a call:
334-567-6280.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 w/ EIS Install Questions |
> #2. Water temp sensor is not real necessary as head temp will monitor the
> same thing.
> Terry
Terry and Gang:
The above statement is not entirely correct. The cyl head
sending unit is not installed in the water jacket of the cyl
head, but in the cyl head metal. Sender has no contact with
the coolant. It does not read coolant temp, but does read
temp of the cyl head metal. Why add an additional number on
your EIS display that has nothing to do with the operation
of the engine. The books don't give limits for coolant
temps. On an air cooled engine we do not measure air temp
that is used for cooling.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
"'larrybiglar'"@matronics.com
One more comment on hose clamps--at Oshkosh I talked with two gentleman who
had a Marklll and they said the ends of the hose clamps should be kept
short. They reported a long tail on the tightened clamp vibrated and
eventually broke--went throught the prop and put a nick in the leading
edge. Smaller fuel line clamps might not be as big a problem but the
coolant and oil line clamps are bigger. Use the right size clamp--not too
long and tighten them all regulalry. Dale Seitzer
Tubing Clamps
I just re-read my last message about the hose clamps, and might should make
1 more small point. I'm not advcocating that everyone go out and buy the
high priced hose, even tho' I plan on it.. I think that no matter which
hose you use, the Pepsi Clamps will be superior to almost anything else out
there. Sure, they're a bitch to get off, but how often do you take them
off
?? I'm real interested in things staying tight while I'm in the air - if I
ever get there. Speaking of which - it looks like I'll be getting a
couple
of weeks extra vacation next month, and it sure would be nice to take
Vamoose. Unfortunately, she ( he, it ?? ) won't fly too well without
fabric, so am stuck with the ground bound 'Bird. Gonna make at least one
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | sources for .093 lexan? |
HI folks,
Just about done with the rear enclosure and ready to put the lexan on the
gull doors.
Now I found out the other day that Commercial plastics, where I got my .060
lexan does not offer the .093 gauge.
I gave Kolb and am waiting to hear their price.
A local metal supplier can get a sheet for $98.00, its a little high but
right now its the only source I have.
Any suggestions.
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Big GPS for sale |
| From: | earl pontillo <epontillo(at)juno.com> |
did you ever sell the gps? if not, what is your asking price? earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: sources for .093 lexan? |
Check to see if you have a Regal Plastics in your area. If they don't have
the right thickness they will order it.
http://www.regalplastics.com
1-800-637-3425
In a message dated 10/23/00 9:44:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rowedl(at)alltel.net writes:
> HI folks,
> Just about done with the rear enclosure and ready to put the lexan on the
> gull doors.
> Now I found out the other day that Commercial plastics, where I got my .060
> lexan does not offer the .093 gauge.
> I gave Kolb and am waiting to hear their price.
> A local metal supplier can get a sheet for $98.00, its a little high but
> right now its the only source I have.
> Any suggestions.
> Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powerfin vs Warp prop |
> Warp is an outstanding prop, tougher
> than any other I know of. But are we flying or weed-wacking out there?
> With normal use, a prop does not usually ingest spark plugs and bolts, so
> how much toughness is overkill in the form of weight?
Jim G and Gang:
Maybe you should rephrase the above to read: "Under ideal
conditions we do not expect a prop to ingest spark plugs and
bolts, fender washers and exhaust pipes, cigarettes and
cameras."
Of all the junk that has gone thru my Kolb pusher props over
the years, I never expected any of it to go thru when it
did. Therefore, I personally, want to be prepared for the
unexpected. I never had an engine failure when I expected
it. Never had a gear leg socket break, when I expected it.
:-)
So I fly Warp and have for the last 7 years. Also tested
that old Warp Drive prop with Alaska bush, rocks, and an 18
inch section of 1.5 inch OD exhaust pipe with a 180 deg and
a 90 degree bend in it. My Warp Drive always got me home.
Forgot about all the rain it has penetrated.
I can not speak for Powerfin. All I know about it is what I
read on this List.
A two blade Warp Drive works well on a Firestar with 447 and
B Gearbox. Check with Bill Griffin on this List. He has
been flying one. Besides, I like the sound of the Original
Firestar with any kind of two blade prop. People used to
say it sounds like a real airplane. :-)
So to answer your question: "how much toughness is overkill
in the form of weight?", I will say: "Enough to get me home
safely." Maybe I demand more from my equipment than other
folks. Long before I started flying for Kolb, Homer Kolb
told me I was his best test bed. Reckon I wore out, broke,
and bent more stuff than most folks. hehehe
john h
PS: I have been sponsored by Warp Drive for the last seven
years. But, even if I was not, I would still fly Warp,
unless, of course, someone comes along with a better prop.
:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Howdy Kolbers:
Here is the url for access to all the Rotax engine manuals,
to include Parts, Maintence, and Operators. They will be
the most current issues also. You can download and print
them out for free. That is really a big change for Rotax in
the right direction. These manuals come at a very high
price if bought from a Rotax dealer.
http://www.kodiakbs.com/tiintro.htm
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ROTAX Manuals |
These manuals come at a very high
> price if bought from a Rotax dealer.
>
> http://www.kodiakbs.com/tiintro.htm
Hey Guys:
Let me add: The 912 Maint Man fits on a floppie so you
don't have to print it out or use hard drive space. I am in
the process of putting all the 912/912S stuff on floppies.
Easy to negotiate with Adobe.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: sources for .093 lexan? |
Aircraft Spruce carries it, and so does Home Depot, for about the same
price. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 7:05 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: sources for .093 lexan?
>
> HI folks,
> Just about done with the rear enclosure and ready to put the lexan on the
> gull doors.
> Now I found out the other day that Commercial plastics, where I got my
.060
> lexan does not offer the .093 gauge.
> I gave Kolb and am waiting to hear their price.
> A local metal supplier can get a sheet for $98.00, its a little high but
> right now its the only source I have.
> Any suggestions.
> Denny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
John Bickham asked boyd young answered
Question #1 - What type of terminal or connector do you use
to connect on to
the oil temp sensor? It has a tiny little brass mushroom
that I'm not sure
what the best method for connection is.
answer i used a 1/4 inch spade type connector i cut a
small hole in a piece of shrink tube i slid the
mushroom top through the hole then slid the 1/4 inch spade
connector up through the tubing to engage the mushroom
top. then heated the shrink tube. insulated
conection that wont come off.
Question #2 - I'm supposed to take the two CHT sensors out
and use one for
coolant temp. I'm making an educated guess and assume that
the sensor should
be on the hose running from the collection bottle on top
back to the
radiator. This would be the highest temp of the system.
What type of
fitting would I use that will couple the 1" hose and have a
10 mm threaded
nut for the sensor to screw into?
answer that is what is says to do but i never followed
that path. it seams that the rotax instructions were
clear that the coolent temp was not needed. what i gained
from reading the rotax manual was that the cht give
enough information as to be usefull in figuring the water
temps. what i did was to remove one of the temp sensors
and install the thermocouple under the sensor and used both
the thermocouple for the cht and the thermistor for the
water temp both in the same location. not that my choice
is correct but it told me that the gages were calibrated the
same. i suppose that the correct way is to get a short
piece of 1" stainless tube and weld a 10 mm nut on it
then drill out the opening for the thermistor and screw it
in. and yes the outlet of the collection bottle would be
the correct place to do this.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 10/20/00 |
>
>
> Brother Beauford
> Please note: The obverse itteration of the transfiguration of the
> query in consideration does not warrant the indoctrination of the
> institution to the full manifestation of it's premises. I'm very sorry.
>
Don't use big words it just confuses me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHe1144783(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: sources for .093 lexan? |
I think I got mine from Cadillac Plastics. Its .093 BRONZE. If you can find
single sheets of it, Id like one. Took me 3 years of calling plastic companys
before I found one selling single sheets. They had it but only by the pallet.
Kris Henkel-Palm Springs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Powerfin vs Warp prop |
John, I put a Power Fin prop on my FireStar 2 after trying an Ivo. I must
say that I'm confident I made the right decision. The Power Fin is
finished better, is stiffer requiring no spacer, and I believe performs
better throughout the power band. I did install a 2.5 inch spacer to reduce
noise (OK, fire away dooms day'rs), and am very satisfied overall. I
remember a story about a Power Fin Prop that was extensively modified by the
purchaser without the consultation of Stuart Gort, resulting in a blade
separation. I believe Mr.. Gort refused to replace the prop and this
individual made it his mission in life to ruin the Power Fin name. Perhaps
another list member will recall the incident better than I, having occurred
at Osh in 97, I think. All new Power Fins are the "new" plane form, Mine is
a 3 blade 60 inch.
Best Regards,
Dave Rains
FireStar 2
El Paso,
Republic of Texas.
-----Original Message-----
From: gerken(at)us.ibm.com <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: Monday, October 23, 2000 6:42 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Powerfin vs Warp prop
>
>
>>John,
>
>>Check the archives on Powerfin. I know of at least one very unsatisfied
>>customer. It appears that Powrfin has had some problems and will not stand
>by
>>their warrantee. I have used a Warp myself and have never heard anything
>bad
>>about them. I have heard plenty of good things about Warp, so of the two,
>I
>>recommend Warp. But for a Firestar II, you can't beat an IVO on an
>extension.
>>Any other prop, without the extension, is very loud on a Firestar II.
>
>>John Jung
>>Firestar II N6163J
>>SE Wisconsin
>
>>John Cooley wrote:
>
>>>
>>> Hi Gang,
>>> I will be purchasing a prop soon. I would like any imput and
>comparisons
>>> between a Powerfin and a Warp. I understand that Powerfin is
>developing/has
>>> developed a new blade planform and the test plane is a Firestar II. Does
>>> anyone know any info on this?
>
>John, I couldn't resist responding, especially since this was the only
>on-List response you received to your Warp vs. PowerFin question. I have
>run Powerfin since before anyone heard of them. I would have purchased
>Warp except for the weight. A three-blade Warp exceeds Rotax requirements
>for inertial mass for their "B" box. Warp is an outstanding prop, tougher
>than any other I know of. But are we flying or weed-wacking out there?
>With normal use, a prop does not usually ingest spark plugs and bolts, so
>how much toughness is overkill in the form of weight? Powerfin is made by
>Stuart Gort, a very friendly, open, honest guy who you can call anytime and
>get a straight answer. He will give you as much technical detail as you
>can swallow. Stuart has worked for Ivo prop as a ?Quality Engineer? and
>has purposely designed the Powerfin to have flexibility and mass between
>Ivo and Warp. So you see you now have the full range from which to choose-
>Ivo is lightest but flexes a lot, Powerfin flexes less and weighs a little
>more, Warp flexes even less and is the heaviest. Also, read the CPS
>article on rotational inertia before deciding. And give a call to each of
>the three and get their recommendations. That in itself will be an
>interesting education.
>Jim G
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Listers,
I am covering the wings and it has occured to me that maybe I should
consider putting drain holes below both the leading and trailing edges.
This would make it possible for moisture to escape in both
configurations, extended and stored.
We have a lot of humidity here in FL.
I would appreciate any thoughts on this.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> I am covering the wings and it has occured to me that maybe I should
> consider putting drain holes below both the leading and trailing edges.
> L. Ray Baker
Ray and Gang:
I personally would not put them except in the rear of wings
and tail section, unless I was going to store the MK III
outside in the folded configuration. :-) I could have used
forward drain holes in both wings that were stored outside
leaning up against a hanger at Muncho Lake, BC. It rained
the two weeks it took me to return and retrieve. Both had
mucho agua.
I took a look inside the damaged wing yesterday. Good
news. No water damage and no dirt daubers. I was
pleasantly surprised. If the left (broken) wing is ok, the
right wing should also be good. I'll take a peek anyhow,
just to make sure. While I am in there, I will also make
sure the inboard drag struck attaching bolt and sleeve are
in good condition and tight. They have a habit of loosening
up after a period of flight time. Also plan on snubbing up
the fuselage portion of the universal joint to get the slop
out of them. Kolb Aircraft had some thin 1/2 inch washers
that will make adjustment a little easier and do'able. It
was impossible to get them snugged up and still be able to
rotate them with the normal thickness washer.
Call Jim and Dondi Miller and get their professional opinion
before you start punching holes. :-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Would like to see! |
You might ask the people at kolb to install the pedals on the second cross
tube instead of the first.That should move them back 5 to 6" toward the seat.
I can't believe they would not do that for you.G.Aman FS2 66hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 10/20/00 |
Woody , I don't think its the big words...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 10/20/00
>
>
> >
> >
> > Brother Beauford
> > Please note: The obverse itteration of the transfiguration of the
> > query in consideration does not warrant the indoctrination of the
> > institution to the full manifestation of it's premises. I'm very
sorry.
> >
>
> Don't use big words it just confuses me.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: sources for .093 lexan? |
Thanks for the tip Will, but their nearest outlet is in Colorado, and I am
near Pittsburgh PA. I ordered from a local metal supply house today, should
be hear by the end of the week.
See YA,
Denny
-----Original Message-----
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, October 23, 2000 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: sources for .093 lexan?
>
>Check to see if you have a Regal Plastics in your area. If they don't have
>the right thickness they will order it.
>http://www.regalplastics.com
>1-800-637-3425
>In a message dated 10/23/00 9:44:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>rowedl(at)alltel.net writes:
>
>> HI folks,
>> Just about done with the rear enclosure and ready to put the lexan on
the
>> gull doors.
>> Now I found out the other day that Commercial plastics, where I got my
.060
>> lexan does not offer the .093 gauge.
>> I gave Kolb and am waiting to hear their price.
>> A local metal supplier can get a sheet for $98.00, its a little high but
>> right now its the only source I have.
>> Any suggestions.
>> Denny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wanted 66" X 32" Wood Prop |
Does any one on the list have a good, used, wood prop for sale? I prefer a
Tennessee Prop and it must be in useable condition. It will be installed on a
Kolb Firestar KXP with Rotax 447, RH rotation, as viewed from the aft end of
aircraft. Contact Alan Mancus, southern NJ
via e-mail: highflyerdad(at)aol.com
Via Phone: 856-358-7743 after 5 pm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
as i have been reading the list about the problems with the
fuel lines ,,,,,, well i have to admit i was a bit
skeptical,,,,,,, well the last time we went flying my wife
said that she could smell gas, well to make a long story
short, the brand new clear plastic lines i installed in
may of this year have already reached the point that they
are leaking. tomorrow i go and try to find black rubber
hoses and stainless clamps.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/23/2000 6:52:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< Also plan on snubbing up
the fuselage portion of the universal joint to get the slop
out of them. Kolb Aircraft had some thin 1/2 inch washers
that will make adjustment a little easier and do'able. It
was impossible to get them snugged up and still be able to
rotate them with the normal thickness washer. >>
John H and other Kolbers,
My friend Kenny Mancus (now gone with the angels) taught me a slick trick to
adjust these nuts to just the right tension. He simply laid a flat file down
on a sturdy surface, then took the nut and moved it back and forth on the
file, thus removing some material. You will be surprised at how little it
takes to make the nut tension just right so there is no slop.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar-Rotax 377
Audubon, NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | N number placement |
According to regulations if I live near the border (ADIZ) I have to use 12"
registration numbers and they have to be painted (No stick-ons).
I don't know where I can paint the big numbers. Or are light experimental
airplanes exempt from this regulation?
I was looking to paint them on the rudder but I don't know if the bureaucRATs
will approve.
Check it out and let me know what you all think.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/PA231528.JPG
I cut out some patterns to check for fit.
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | How do you guys afford expensife aircraft |
just wondering how you guys can afford these expensife kits just
wondering what kind of jobs or tricks you can pass along to me maybe i
will be able to afford one.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N number placement |
> Check it out and let me know what you all think.
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/PA231528.JPG
> I cut out some patterns to check for fit.
>
> Regards,
> Will Uribe
Will and Gang:
Sounds like a question for your local FSDO. They are the
guys that will write you up if they do not like what they
see.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft |
One kit at a time. Start building kit number one, by the time your done with
it you should have saved up for your second kit and so on.
In a message dated 10/23/00 11:45:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kb8wlu(at)tir.com
writes:
> just wondering how you guys can afford these expensife kits just
> wondering what kind of jobs or tricks you can pass along to me maybe i
> will be able to afford one.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
DO YOU THINK KOLB WOULD DO A I OWE YOU ON A KIT?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
DO YOU HAVE TO PAINT THE WING SKINS OR DO THEY COME PAINTED?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | Donations please |
anyone looking to donate a mkIII can donate to Paul Robinson
2661 S. Seaton Circuit Warren, MI 48091 thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | resale on a kolb |
Was wondering whats the reasale on a kolb used verses buying the kit for
15,000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Herren" <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N number placement |
Do the math Will it is more than 15" around that boom - if they can be
rediculous why can't we?
Bill
>From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com, WillUribe(at)aol.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: N number placement
>Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 23:35:31 EDT
>
>
>According to regulations if I live near the border (ADIZ) I have to use 12"
>registration numbers and they have to be painted (No stick-ons).
>I don't know where I can paint the big numbers. Or are light experimental
>airplanes exempt from this regulation?
>I was looking to paint them on the rudder but I don't know if the
>bureaucRATs
>will approve.
>Check it out and let me know what you all think.
>http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/PA231528.JPG
>I cut out some patterns to check for fit.
>
>Regards,
>Will Uribe
>El Paso, TX
>FireStar II N4GU
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | More 912 Questions - Tapered K&N filter? |
October 09, 2000 - October 23, 2000
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ck