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Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cl
October 23, 2000 - November 08, 2000

Thanks to everyone that responded to my questions yesterday. Those that replied with phone numbers, expect a call during the week. Today I tried to put the offset K&N air filters on. These are the ones that came with the engine kit form the OLD Kolb. The left one goes on OK. The right one won't fit between the oil reservoir and the choke/throttle cables on the carb. It will fit but the cables are deflected hard right and the filter is rubbing on the oil reservoir. Not good. Got to looking at all my pictures from Sun-n-Fun, 1st Kolb Fly-in, etc and 99% are using the tapered K&N filters. I then checked the catalogs and can't find a tapered K&N with a 2" throat. Where do you guys purchase the tapered K&N and which part number do you use? Anyone need two offset K&N's that have never been used? I did remeber reading on the list a while back that there was a preference for the tapered due the negative effective off airflow over the straight filters creating a partial vacuum. I did try to get the tapered from the Old Kolb. They were in the middle of negotiations with the New Kolb then and they weren't too enthusiastic about swapping them out.. It was top secret (to me) then but now I know. Second question - There is a aluminum tube that runs between the two intake manifolds on my 912. I think this is a balance line. On this balance line is a 1/4" barbed fitting. I don't know what goes on this if anything. Will it be OK to just leave the little plastic protective covering on the fitting? Thanks again and again, John Bickham St. Francisville, LA Mark III - 912 N308JB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Universal Joints
Date: Oct 23, 2000
The idea of removing a bit of metal is a good, simple one. KISS, remember. Thanks. When I was setting up my wings, I crawled thru the bins at Eagle Hardware, and found several thicknesses of nylon washers. Thought they might be a little easier on the paint ( powder coat ) when I fold the wings. Shouldn't have worried, there's a fair amount of rust showing thru several places on the powder coat, all over the fuselage pod. Next time ( shudder ) I'll use epoxy primer, instead of powder coat. Also, will use 1 medium nylon washer, and hone the nut, as below. Wiser Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: <WVarnes(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:22 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Drain holes > > In a message dated 10/23/2000 6:52:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes: > > << Also plan on snubbing up > the fuselage portion of the universal joint to get the slop > out of them. Kolb Aircraft had some thin 1/2 inch washers > that will make adjustment a little easier and do'able. It > was impossible to get them snugged up and still be able to > rotate them with the normal thickness washer. >> > > John H and other Kolbers, > > My friend Kenny Mancus (now gone with the angels) taught me a slick trick to > adjust these nuts to just the right tension. He simply laid a flat file down > on a sturdy surface, then took the nut and moved it back and forth on the > file, thus removing some material. You will be surprised at how little it > takes to make the nut tension just right so there is no slop. > > Bill Varnes > Original FireStar-Rotax 377 > Audubon, NJ USA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft
Date: Oct 24, 2000
I dunno - how's your bank robbing skills ?? Seriously, I work for wages too, and live in a mobile home. When I lived in Port Angeles, WA, I bought several junker boats over a period of time, rebuilt them, and sold them. Then built a duck boat for a friend, a dinghy, and a cedar strip canoe. The story is much more involved, but basically, the profit from the boats bought the basic Mk III kit. The big pieces take a lot of saving; it gets to where every thing else you buy makes you feel guilty - a bit - cause it comes out of the radio kitty, or the engine fund, or.............or................or................... The 1st year, I did nothing, went no-where. Nose to the ol' grindstone, build the bird ! ! ! Got the entire structure done. Finally decided to get a life, and go play a bit, so now it's been 4 yrs. Yeah, yeah, you guys, I know, there's been a fair amount ( a lot ?? ) of goofing off in there too, but I REALLY am ready now to start covering. Honest ! ! ! Plus, the engine is almost ready to start up. Does it ever look good. Spent today running fuel lines................ My feeling is that it's really worth it. I wouldn't trade the experience for anything. Or the education, or the people I've met, and continue to meet. OR..............the ego trip when I tell people I'm building an airplane, and watch their faces. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Robinson" <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:43 AM Subject: Kolb-List: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft > > just wondering how you guys can afford these expensife kits just > wondering what kind of jobs or tricks you can pass along to me maybe i > will be able to afford one. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Donations please
Date: Oct 24, 2000
I bet he still believes in the Easter Bunny, too. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Robinson" <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 9:21 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Donations please > > anyone looking to donate a mkIII can donate to Paul Robinson > 2661 S. Seaton Circuit Warren, MI 48091 thanks > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: Powerfin vs Warp prop
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Hi Gang, Thanks for the responses to the prop question. I've just got to make up my mind now. I think it will be between the 2 blade Warp or 3 blade Powerfin. If I understand things correctly the 2 blade is going to have better performace and the 3 blade would be somewhat smoother. Even the guys a SMLA will give different opinions. One says 3 blade Powerfin, another says 2 blade constant speed Warp. I will be using the plane mostly just beating around the pea patch here in Lucedale with a occasional trip here and there. Thanks Again, John Cooley Building FS II #1162 Lucedale, Ms. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Powerfin vs Warp prop
John C, On the three blade vs two blade issue, I recently changed to a two blade 68" IVO from a 63" three blade. It is still on an extension and I like the sound better although it is not quieter. It has a slight thumping sound, more like a conventional aircraft. The three blade was more like a buzz. The buzz is less comfortable to my ears. I did have a two blade Warp on my plane for about an hour and it was way too loud. It was not on an extension because I think that the Warp is too heavy for an extension on a B box. John Jung Firestar II N6163J SE Wisconsin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Subject: Re: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft
It"s easy. Worked hard all my life also married a rich and beautiful woman. If you are really, really lucky you may avoid the first part. Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly, SN 007, 447, Ivo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: More 912 Questions - Tapered K&N filter?
Will > it be OK to just leave the little plastic protective covering on the fitting? > John Bickham John and Gang: The small port of the balance tube is a vacuum port. The plastic cap will not seal it. It needs to be sealed. On the factory Sling Shot I used a piece of tygon tubing long enough to slip over the port and then bent back on itself, with a couple wraps of safety wire to secure it in place. It could also be welded shut or replaced with another piece of aluminum tubing, as I did on my 912S. This is a source for possible vacuum leak is not sealed properly. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Universal Joints
> When I was setting up my wings, I crawled thru the bins at > Eagle > Hardware, and found several thicknesses of nylon washers. > I'll use epoxy primer, instead of powder coat. Also, will use > 1 medium nylon washer, and hone the nut, as below. Wiser > Lar. Lar and Gang: Don't recommend using nylon washers in the place of steel A&E washers, especially where there is a lot of load. They probably will compress and wear rapidly. I learned the hard way about priming and painting areas of contact where there will be a lot of stress and vibration, like engine mount pads and also drag strut universal fittings (the rotating part on the fuselage) where there is rotation. My engine mounts, which were primed and painted for show, in a matter of several hundred hours, the primer and paint had worn away under the four contact pads of the 912, effectively giving the engine mounts (aluminum angle) enough slop to begin wearing the mounting pads on the engine cases. Now I don't paint areas of this nature. If there is concern for rust on steel parts, a little grease takes care of that. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dickk9(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Subject: Re: N number placement
Hi Kolb builders and owners, I took this form the FAR part 45.29 Sec. 45.29 Size of marks. (a) Except as provided in paragraph (f) of this section, each operator of an aircraft shall display marks on the aircraft meeting the size requirements of this section. (b) Height. Except as provided in paragraph (h) of this part, the nationality and registration marks must be of equal height and on-- (1) Fixed-wing aircraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that: (i) An aircraft displaying marks at least 2 inches high before November 1, 1981 and an aircraft manufactured after November 2, 1981, but before January 1, 1983, may display those marks until the aircraft is repainted or the marks are repainted, restored, or changed; (ii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on a glider; (iii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on an aircraft for which an experimental certificate has been issued under Sec. 21.191(d) or 21.191(g) for operating as an exhibition aircraft or as an amateur-built aircraft when the maximum cruising speed of the aircraft does not exceed 180 knots CAS; and (iv) Marks may be displayed on an exhibition, antique, or other aircraft in accordance with Sec. 45.22. Hope this helps, Dick ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: resale on a kolb
Add another $5,000 and I'll sell you mine and build myself an Xtra. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Kingsport Tn > >Was wondering whats the reasale on a kolb used verses buying the kit for >15,000 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
"'WillUribe(at)aol.com'"
Subject: N number placement
Date: Oct 25, 2000
Don't the numbers have to be neon? You need a bigger rudder. Dale Seitzer -----Original Message----- From: WillUribe(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 10:36 PM Subject: Kolb-List: N number placement According to regulations if I live near the border (ADIZ) I have to use 12" registration numbers and they have to be painted (No stick-ons). I don't know where I can paint the big numbers. Or are light experimental airplanes exempt from this regulation? I was looking to paint them on the rudder but I don't know if the bureaucRATs will approve. Check it out and let me know what you all think. http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/PA231528.JPG I cut out some patterns to check for fit. Regards, Will Uribe El Paso, TX FireStar II N4GU ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
"'Paul Robinson'"@matronics.com
Subject: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft
Date: Oct 25, 2000
Buy a used Kolb--a great value and if you keep it well maintained you can get back what you paid for it when you sell it the get a new Kolb. Dale Seitzer -----Original Message----- From: Paul Robinson Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 10:44 AM Subject: Kolb-List: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft just wondering how you guys can afford these expensife kits just wondering what kind of jobs or tricks you can pass along to me maybe i will be able to afford one. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Subject: Re: N number placement
I did read the same regs but the locals here tell me it's not the FAA but US Customs that expect you to have the 12" numbers when on a return flight from Mexico. I'd rather use the 3" numbers on the tail tube and if Customs ever gives me a hard time about it I just ask them where do they suggest I put them. Thanks Will Uribe El Paso, TX FireStar II N4GU In a message dated 10/24/00 8:58:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Dickk9(at)aol.com writes: > > Sec. 45.29 Size of marks. > > (a) Except as provided in paragraph (f) of this section, each operator > of > an aircraft shall display marks on the aircraft meeting the size > requirements > of this section. > (b) Height. Except as provided in paragraph (h) of this part, the > nationality and registration marks must be of equal height and on-- > (1) Fixed-wing aircraft, must be at least 12 inches high, except that: > (i) An aircraft displaying marks at least 2 inches high before November > 1, > 1981 and an aircraft manufactured after November 2, 1981, but before > January > 1, 1983, may display those marks until the aircraft is repainted or the > marks > are repainted, restored, or changed; > (ii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on a glider; > (iii) Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on an aircraft for > which an experimental certificate has been issued under Sec. 21.191(d) or > 21.191(g) for operating as an exhibition aircraft or as an amateur-built > aircraft when the maximum cruising speed of the aircraft does not exceed > 180 > knots CAS; and > (iv) Marks may be displayed on an exhibition, antique, or other aircraft > > in > accordance with Sec. 45.22. > > Hope this helps, > Dick > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Re: FireFly Wheels
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Beauford-all- another source of wheels-@ 1/2 the kolb cost is Northern Tool and equipment co.Bearings are removable. 1-800-533-5545--get their catalog or flyer Just arrived home from Octoberlite-for all on this list that I said I would send pictures-later tonight-or tomorrow at the latest. Lindy LA-Lower Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Subject: More 912 Questions - Tapered K&N filter?
Date: Oct 24, 2000
John I have two barely used tapered K&N filters that came with my 912 MKIII. Make me an offer. I couldn't use them because the ram air would lean the mixture and cause the 912 to run rough. The flat front offset filters fixed the problem and fit ok on mine. Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BICUM(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 2:30 AM Subject: Kolb-List: More 912 Questions - Tapered K&N filter? Thanks to everyone that responded to my questions yesterday. Those that replied with phone numbers, expect a call during the week. Today I tried to put the offset K&N air filters on. These are the ones that came with the engine kit form the OLD Kolb. The left one goes on OK. The right one won't fit between the oil reservoir and the choke/throttle cables on the carb. It will fit but the cables are deflected hard right and the filter is rubbing on the oil reservoir. Not good. Got to looking at all my pictures from Sun-n-Fun, 1st Kolb Fly-in, etc and 99% are using the tapered K&N filters. I then checked the catalogs and can't find a tapered K&N with a 2" throat. Where do you guys purchase the tapered K&N and which part number do you use? Anyone need two offset K&N's that have never been used? I did remeber reading on the list a while back that there was a preference for the tapered due the negative effective off airflow over the straight filters creating a partial vacuum. I did try to get the tapered from the Old Kolb. They were in the middle of negotiations with the New Kolb then and they weren't too enthusiastic about swapping them out.. It was top secret (to me) then but now I know. Second question - There is a aluminum tube that runs between the two intake manifolds on my 912. I think this is a balance line. On this balance line is a 1/4" barbed fitting. I don't know what goes on this if anything. Will it be OK to just leave the little plastic protective covering on the fitting? Thanks again and again, John Bickham St. Francisville, LA Mark III - 912 N308JB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: WING SKINS
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Paul, All Kolbs are covered by the builder with heat shrinkable polyester fabric just like the fabric used on certified aircraft such as a Cub or Citabria. This fabric must be sealed, than you apply a couple coats of a ultraviolet resistant base, than your finish color. The fabric is glued to the airframe with a special fabric cement. So to answer your question, YOU MUST PAINT THE WING SKNS. The Kolb video can help explain the complete building process for you. I recommend it. Good Luck, Denny Rowe rowedl(at)alltel.net Building Mark-3 in PA -----Original Message----- From: Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> Date: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 12:34 AM Subject: Kolb-List: WING SKINS > >DO YOU HAVE TO PAINT THE WING SKINS OR DO THEY COME PAINTED? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Lancaster CA seminar - Postponed
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" I'm sorry to have to announce that only 5 of the ordiginal 35 people who signed up for the Lancaster program have confirmed their resesrvations. I'm now past the deadline for getting inexpensive airfares and renting the meeting room facilities. We'll be e-mailing all of the confirmed reservation holders today. I'm going to pick a new date after the first of the year and see what happens the second time around. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb i owe you
Date: Oct 24, 2000
NO! -----Original Message----- From: Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> Date: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 12:26 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb i owe you > >DO YOU THINK KOLB WOULD DO A I OWE YOU ON A KIT? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
"'Robert L. Nuckolls, III'"
Subject: Lancaster CA seminar - Postponed
Date: Oct 25, 2000
What is a Lancaster? A plane or a city? An instrument or a supply? Something electrical? Dale Seitzer -----Original Message----- From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 9:47 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Lancaster CA seminar - Postponed I'm sorry to have to announce that only 5 of the ordiginal 35 people who signed up for the Lancaster program have confirmed their resesrvations. I'm now past the deadline for getting inexpensive airfares and renting the meeting room facilities. We'll be e-mailing all of the confirmed reservation holders today. I'm going to pick a new date after the first of the year and see what happens the second time around. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron" <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
"Paul Robinson"
Subject: Re: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft
Date: Oct 24, 2000
VERY cool story, Larry. You've done well and you'll be rewarded soon Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: larrybiglar <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 12:11 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft > > I dunno - how's your bank robbing skills ?? Seriously, I work for wages > too, and live in a mobile home. When I lived in Port Angeles, WA, I bought > several junker boats over a period of time, rebuilt them, and sold them. > Then built a duck boat for a friend, a dinghy, and a cedar strip canoe. The > story is much more involved, but basically, the profit from the boats bought > the basic Mk III kit. The big pieces take a lot of saving; it gets to where > every thing else you buy makes you feel guilty - a bit - cause it comes out > of the radio kitty, or the engine fund, > or.............or................or................... The 1st year, I > did nothing, went no-where. Nose to the ol' grindstone, build the bird ! ! > ! Got the entire structure done. Finally decided to get a life, and go > play a bit, so now it's been 4 yrs. Yeah, yeah, you guys, I know, there's > been a fair amount ( a lot ?? ) of goofing off in there too, but I REALLY > am ready now to start covering. Honest ! ! ! Plus, the engine is almost > ready to start up. Does it ever look good. Spent today running fuel > lines................ My feeling is that it's really > worth it. I wouldn't trade the experience for anything. Or the education, > or the people I've met, and continue to meet. OR..............the ego trip > when I tell people I'm building an airplane, and watch their faces. > Big Lar. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Paul Robinson" <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> > To: > Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:43 AM > Subject: Kolb-List: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft > > > > > > just wondering how you guys can afford these expensife kits just > > wondering what kind of jobs or tricks you can pass along to me maybe i > > will be able to afford one. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com>
Subject: Drain Holes.....
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Yes, this would work, are you planning on storing your flying machine out in the rain? If not, just holes in the trailing edge area should suffice. These drain holes are mainly for airflow, for keeping the wings and flight controls dry. Don't forget to put holes in the fuselage on both sides of the "keel", in both a flying and a ground attitude. Lots of drain holes are a great idea, but you might consider (1) mud daubers and (2) sounding like a piccolo during a high speed fly-by! Jim & Dondi Miller Listers, I am covering the wings and it has occurred to me that maybe I should consider putting drain holes below both the leading and trailing edges. This would make it possible for moisture to escape in both configurations, extended and stored. We have a lot of humidity here in FL. I would appreciate any thoughts on this. L. Ray Baker Lake Butler, Fl Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB Jim & Dondi Miller Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com www.aircrafttechsupport.com E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
From: Tom Kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Subject: Re: N number placement
Dick, What you quoted was true but the source of the problem for Will is further down: Sec. 45.29 Size of marks. .... (h) After March 7, 1988, each operator of an aircraft penetrating an ADIZ or DEWIZ shall display on that aircraft temporary or permanent nationality and registration marks at least 12 inches high. Since such a zone surrounds the lower 48, in theory you are in violation if you only just cross over the border while in a landing pattern for a US airport. Up north, we have the same problem going to Canada. It is common to see transient aircraft around here with masking tape 12 inch numbers. Fortunately, for Kolbs, we have an out: Sec. 45.25 Location of marks on fixed-wing aircraft. (a) The operator of a fixed-wing aircraft shall display the required marks on either the vertical tail surfaces or the sides of the fuselage, except as provided in Sec. 45.29(f). Sec. 45.29 Size of marks. (a) Except as provided in paragraph (f) of this section .... (f) ... If any surface authorized to be marked by Sec. 45.27 is not large enough for full-size marks, marks as large as practicable shall be placed on the largest of the authorized surfaces. So the question boils down to a bureaucratic interpretation of whether 45.29(h) takes precedence over 45.29(f). If you want to be beyond such capricious actions (why does Customs care about FAA rules anyway), you could put 3 inch numbers on the fin (slow experimental exemption) and one set of 12 inch numbers anywhere else such as the wing (45.29(h) doesn't mention "authorized surfaces"). Ugly solution but meets the letter of all regulations. As a practical matter, I have never heard in 25 years of flying to and from Alaska of a small homebuilt being hassled by US or Canadian officials for 3 inch numbers. Tom, building Original Firestar Whitefish, MT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
From: Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: N number placement
Gents, >I did read the same regs but the locals here tell me it's not the FAA but US >Customs that expect you to have the 12" numbers when on a return flight from >Mexico. >I'd rather use the 3" numbers on the tail tube and if Customs ever gives me a >hard time about it I just ask them where do they suggest I put them. I have 3" N numbers only on the rudder of my Swift and I have never had a problem with the FAA. I believe it is correct that you are supposed to have the 12" numbers (smaller if necessary to make them fit the airframe). That said, not one person or Customs Officer (U.S.,Canada, Mexico, Bahamas) has given me any problem or even made mention of the number size. Skip ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Benson" <jimben(at)clear.lakes.com>
Subject: Kolb Firestar for sale
Date: Oct 24, 2000
A friend of mine has a 1996 Kolb Firestar that he wishes to sell. It has a 503 Rotax with 2-blade Ivo prop. It was completed in 1998 and has a mere 35 hours on it. He just never got the hang of this flying business and now wants out. I blieve he will part with it for about $11,000 and is probably willing to take the test offer in that area. Let me know if anyone might be interested. It is locate at the Glencoe Airport (GYL) in Minnesota. E-mail or call and leave message if I am out flying. 320-864-5257 or jimben(at)clear.lakes.com Jim Benson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Another fuel line comment
Date: Oct 24, 2000
I am nowhere near plumbing my FireStar but I have been following the comments on the fuel line problems. When I was involved with marine engines we used a lot of teflon lines that were covered with stainless steel braid. These lines lasted forever and were very strong. A rated working pressure of around 1000 psi. 1/4 inch line costs about $4.50 a foot and 3/8 inch line is about $5.75 a foot. Fittings run around $5.50 each. How many feet of line and how many fittings will it take to plumb a FireStar or a Mark III. Another choice might be push lock hose at around $2.50 a foot. This has a working pressure of 300 psi. I am not sure of UV protection of the push lock, but the teflon with the stainless steel cover should last far longer than most of us will live. Ron Payne Gilbertsville, Ky. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Subject: Re: N number placement
Tom, If I remember correctly, Customs asked the FAA for the 12" number requirement. They like to sneak in and fly on your six to run your numbers through their computers. Although I would like to see a citation slow down to a FireStar's flying speed. Some where in the regs it states N-numbers on the wings have to be 18". My doctor does missionary work in Mexico and had just purchased a used airplane. One time he was coming back from Mexico and because his airplane had been flagged in the computer due to the previous owner, Customs took the airplane apart. Lucky for you guys on the Canadian border, don't have the drug smuggling operations like here on the Mexican border. It's so bad, every week, people across the border are getting gunned down in turf battles, AL Capon style. I'm gong with the 3" numbers. Will In a message dated 10/24/00 1:27:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kuffel(at)cyberport.net writes: > (why does Customs care about FAA rules anyway), you > could put 3 inch numbers on the fin (slow experimental exemption) and > one set of 12 inch numbers anywhere else such as the wing (45.29(h) > doesn't mention "authorized surfaces"). Ugly solution but meets the > letter of all regulations. > > As a practical matter, I have never heard in 25 years of flying to and > from Alaska of a small homebuilt being hassled by US or Canadian > officials for 3 inch numbers. > > Tom, building Original Firestar > Whitefish, MT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 10/20/00
> >Woody , I don't think its the big words... Then it could be I am just genetically predisposed to confusion. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Powerfin vs Warp prop
>. I >remember a story about a Power Fin Prop that was extensively modified by the >purchaser without the consultation of Stuart Gort, resulting in a blade >separation. I believe Mr.. Gort refused to replace the prop and this >individual made it his mission in life to ruin the Power Fin name. I think that is something that happened to IVO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb i owe you
> >DO YOU THINK KOLB WOULD DO A I OWE YOU ON A KIT? I am sure they would, why don't you ask them. ;) Call them and ask for Sue ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft
> >just wondering how you guys can afford these expensife kits I drove my $50 VW Rabbit winter car year round for almost 3 years. You have to set your priorities straight. It's hard to make the airplane payments if you are making car payments too. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Subject: Re: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft
Us is mostly profesonal riters by trade and we make large mony. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R. Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Big Lar , I belive all of your story except the part about you starting to cover... You just went too far there.. c-ya Buddy RH > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How do you guys afford expensife > > > > I dunno - how's your bank robbing skills ?? Seriously, I work for > wages > > too, and live in a mobile home. When I lived in Port Angeles, WA, I > bought > > several junker boats over a period of time, rebuilt them, and sold them. > > Then built a duck boat for a friend, a dinghy, and a cedar strip canoe. > The > > story is much more involved, but basically, the profit from the boats > bought > > the basic Mk III kit. The big pieces take a lot of saving; it gets to > where > > every thing else you buy makes you feel guilty - a bit - cause it comes > out > > of the radio kitty, or the engine fund, > > or.............or................or................... The 1st year, > I > > did nothing, went no-where. Nose to the ol' grindstone, build the bird ! > ! > > ! Got the entire structure done. Finally decided to get a life, and go > > play a bit, so now it's been 4 yrs. Yeah, yeah, you guys, I know, > there's > > been a fair amount ( a lot ?? ) of goofing off in there too, but I > REALLY > > am ready now to start covering. Honest ! ! ! Plus, the engine is almost > > ready to start up. Does it ever look good. Spent today running fuel > > lines................ My feeling is that it's > really > > worth it. I wouldn't trade the experience for anything. Or the > education, > > or the people I've met, and continue to meet. OR..............the ego > trip > Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Flycrazy8(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb i owe you
I thought that Helen Waite was the credit manager at Kolb....lol ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Subject: Re: How do you guys afford expensive aircraft
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Well, it's like this, I wanted to fly and Homer came out with a winner in 1985 called the FireStar and it was love at first sight. I went to the banker and showed him a picture and told him that I didn't want a boat, an RV, or a car, but this FireStar. He gave a loan for the full amount of $4995.00 the cost of a FireStar in 1986. I paid back the loan in full and have never regretted it. Still flying and loving it ...... Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar > just wondering how you guys can afford these expensife kits just > wondering what kind of jobs or tricks you can pass along to me maybe > i will be able to afford one. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: reply to questions for John Bickham
john i have the same filters you describe on my 912 and they work ok,,,,,,, was not able to mount them with the word rotax horizontal but they fit between the oil res and cables ok. as per the 1/4 in tube on the cross over between the carbs. this could be used to install a manifold pressure gauge. what i did was to put it in a drawer and install a piece of 1/2 inch alum tube left over from building the wings and dont have to worry about something going through the fan. boyd utah ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Kit costs
Date: Oct 24, 2000
I am just now ordering my Mark III Xtra. It is not $15,000. You will be paying at least $1,000 more just for the kit. I think everyone will agree that $18,000 to $20,000 isn't unreasonable. Julian Warren Eugene,Oregon Why pay for something you could get for free? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
Subject: Re: How do you guys afford expensife aircraft
From: Bruce E Harrison <bharrison(at)juno.com>
It's all done by money laundering. In my case, lunch money, the money I don't spend on cigarettes, the money I was supposed to spend on voice lessons, and the money everyone thought I spent on my education. After a while, you develop very sophisticated techniques to make your aircraft related credit charges look like bills for gasoline, business consulting, and groceries. If this method doesn't work for you, I'd suggest scaling back your lifestyle--smaller house, older cars, and cheaper vacations. My last vacation was a trip with a trailer to pick up Kolb parts. You can't have it all and have a Kolb too. That should get you a Kit #1. After that, it's time for the smoke and mirrors. > > just wondering how you guys can afford these expensife kits just > wondering what kind of jobs or tricks you can pass along to me maybe > i > will be able to afford one. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 24, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb i owe you
> >I thought that Helen Waite was the credit manager at Kolb....lol Now that you mention it I think I asked Sue for a beer at the picnic and she told me to go to Helen Waite. That must be the credit manager. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no>
Subject: Re: Radio & GPS
Thumb wrote: > What is a good transceiver that has a good range.And do all of > these work with a set head phones and mike. Is there any way to use a hand > held with head phones and a push to talk switch on the control stick? > I need advice. Thanks Range is a function of tranmitter output and antenna efficiency. Handhelds have mostly 1.5 watts output, so the best way of getting range is to use a properly located external antenna with them. I myself use a delcom 960, which is a simple but good no frills radio. as it has all controls on the top, you can mount it into your panel with a delcom supplied 3 1/8 " instrument hole adapter, which is what i've done. This is connected to a home-made external antenna. As a backup and ground radio, i use a king kx-99. this one has slightly better audio and digital cdi on the nav channels, but has to be mounted with the front visible for operation. both radios are tied to my intercom via an home made audio panel. PTT is by means of the intercom. most manufacturers offer headset adapters with PTT for their handhelds, but check out delcom: They have an extensive range of accessories for their units and with a less than 300 $ tag on their air 960, they're hard to beat. http://delc.com/index.htm btw: found out that Batteries America are offering replacement pacs for both brands with Ni-Mh cells; 3 times the capacity of the original battery pacs. check them out : http://www.mrnicd-ehyostco.com/newpage71.htm ole twinstar mk2 in norway ________________________________________________________________________________
From: mlotts1(at)mmm.com
Date: Oct 25, 2000
Subject: Kolbras vs the Extra
Hey folks, are there any flying Kolbras out there now. I haven't been flying for a few years but I am about to do something about that. I am looking very close at the Extra and the Kolbra. I guess it might be the same as comparing the MK111 to the Slingshot. Any comments? Or is it a little too early because there isn't enough of them out there. Has anyone had a ride in the Kolbra and Extra? Is the Kolbra any more responsive than the Extra? Also are there any lightweight enclosed trailers for them? I had a Weedhopper years back and put more wear and tear on it trailering it than from flying it. Can you really get an honest 90mph cruise with a 912 on the Extra? Also are the Kolbs spin worthy? Are there any Kolbs close to central Texas? Monte Georgetown Tx. (Austin area) mlotts1(at)mmm.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Sticking relay with B&C starter.
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" >Benoit > >There are two parts to a relay and these must not be confused. > >1) a coil - to activate a high current switch >2) the high current switch > >The diode is used on the coil to stop the reverse current pulse, this only happens when the coil is released and does not effect the switch part of the relay. > >If the switch part of the relay cannot handle the current being drawn >by the starter it will have a tendency to weld close or stick. Not the whole story. It's true that contacts overheat and degrade when loaded with too much current but 90% of the time it's not an overcurrent issue. As I write these words, I've got a test setup running on my workbench to deduce the reason for sticking relays in the roll trim system of a bizjet . . . current rating: 5A, motor draw: 1A life of relay in service: 100-200 hrs and then they stick. >The best option my be to get a relay with a higher current rating. >Check the current rating of the starter and multiply this by 1.5 to 2 >(Safety factor), then look for a relay to handle this current. I've had customers force me to drop a 5A relay in a slot where I had tested and qualified a 2A relay to tens of thousands of cycles over full temperature range for the system. My protests went unheaded and the government blessed DER's signed off on the change without further testing. They reasoned that if 2A was "good", 5A was "better". Within weeks of delivery of first units to the customer and before the airplanes could be delivered to customers, 5A relays began to stick . . . Here's what started this thread . . . . >>>> Benot LECOQ <lecoqben@club-internet.fr> 10/25/00 11:30AM >>> > Hello from France > > I still get lots of fun flying around my new Cozy and everything is fine. > > Nevertherless there a few squawks that come up from time to time.The biggy >for me is the starter relay that is sticking after releasing the start push >button after engine start from time to time.This of course keeps the starter >engaged with the engine running and you have to shut everything down to >avoid any damage.Up to now, I had no real trouble with coping with that but >it starts to be a real hassle. > Here is what I tried: > - Apply aeroelectric connection recommandations: big cable gauge and a >diode to minimize the spark. > - Change the relay a few time but after a while it starts again. > The configuration is : > - Lycoming O360 A3a, > - Lightweight BC starter, wiring for the start part per Nat's >recommandations including aeroelectric connection features, > - 2 switches for the ignition system: one is grounding a magnetoand the >other one switching on and off a Jeff rose electronic ignition. > - A push button triggering the starter relay. > I hear from a friend that the BC starter is pulling a lot more amps on the >battery than other starters and occasionnally triggers a big spark inside >the relay that would lead quickly to a sticking relay. > As I said I included a diode between the ground and the output of the relay >toward the starter (obviously in the inverted direction )to try to minimize >the spark inside the relay. It looks like it does not play its role. I don't have enough information yet. Scenario 1: Is the sticking "relay" a starter contactor with fat wires to carry starter current and light wiring to accept control voltage via the start switch? What kind of contactor? Did you purchase it from either B&C or from AeroElectric Connection? Is the system wired such that the built in into the B&C starter is jumpered to the main terminal as-supplied from B&C? If the the "relay" being discussed is a starter contactor external to the B&C starter then I suspect it's not a device purchased from either Bill or myself and is not rated for the task. The contactors we sell have been installed by the hundreds and I'm yet to be notified of any sticking problems . . . although it CAN happen, we would not expect it in less than hundreds of hours of service. Scenario 2: Is the "relay" an auxiliary device used to take advantage of the starter's built in contactor? Many folk have used some 30A rated, plastic relays as an amplifier to buffer the built in starter contactor's horrible inrush currents. See: www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf Even tho these relays are rated sufficiently to withstand the high inrush requirements, the load they switch is VERY inductive and has a strong potential for burning the contacts of the aux control relay. Going to a 70A rated relay would not solve the problem. Missing or in-appropriately applied arc suppression is the cause of problems. Both problems are easy to fix. Benot, it would help if you could fax me a sketch of your wiring so that I can accurately deduce the problem and recommend a solution. Send it to 316.685.8617 and I'll publish the diagnosis and prescription on the lists. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
Subject: GPS
From: Robert L Doebler <robertdoebler(at)juno.com>
I have a Lowrance Air Map 300 GPS, that I've had for afew years. I've only used it about 4 times. It mostly sits in the case, on the shelf, as I only fly about 20 miles from our field. It has the hard carring case, charger, NiMH battery pack, extra empty case for regular batterries, instruction book, plus an angled special bracket that I made ,to strap it to my thigh. I will let it go for $650, including shipping if anyone is interested. However I will be out of town until Sunday, so can't respone to any e-mails until then. Robert Doebler robertdoebler(at)juno.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: gerken(at)us.ibm.com
Date: Oct 25, 2000
Subject: props again
>Hi Gang, > Thanks for the responses to the prop question. I've just got to make up my >mind now. I think it will be between the 2 blade Warp or 3 blade Powerfin. >If I understand things correctly the 2 blade is going to have better >performace and the 3 blade would be somewhat smoother. Even the guys a SMLA >will give different opinions. One says 3 blade Powerfin, another says 2 >blade constant speed Warp. I will be using the plane mostly just beating >around the pea patch here in Lucedale with a occasional trip here and there. You've got it about right, on the 2 vs 3 blade. Three blades will give slightly better climb, and two blades should give more efficiency so faster cruise. However, given a fixed max diameter, for a given reduction ratio, you may be forced to use three blades for the power you have available. Once you've decided on 2 or 3, your prop manufacturer of choice will be able to recommend which gearset you want in your box, and what diameter is best (probably the biggest that clears the fuse tube, but manufacturrer will know what works best). One thing, the name "constant speed Warp" is kind of a fantasy. According to an article by Andy Gold (I think it was Andy), the thing does not flex enough to really change pitch. Anyway, you don't want it to change pitch. After you've been through a year of screwing around with it, you'll realize that the 2-stroke has a max RPM it must run to, and once the pitch is carefully set up (on the ground) to allow this target wide open throttle RPM in straight and level flight, the jetting will be easy and predictable. Change pitch and all temps go haywire. Run too much pitch and you'll run cold EGTs and carbon up, run too little pitch and it overspeeds and overtemps on the EGTs, and you'll never catch it. This is why I don't believe the in-air variable pitch props (IVO electric adjustable...) are worth buying for use on a 2-stroke. This is my opinion, after experience with five different brands of props on three different 2-strokes. Jim G ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
Subject: Re: RE: GPS
Sam Cox wrote: > > > " I've been researching for last several days myself. So far here's what > I found: Aircraft Spruce has best prices with noone even close ($485 for > Garmin III). " > > My choice was the Garmin III + at Walmart and outdoor stores for $369. > > Sam Cox The Garmin III at Walmart for $369 does NOT have the aviation data base. Does the Garmin III from ACS have the aviation data base? Believe the one that DOES have the data base is called the "Garmin III Pilot" gil leiter MAPLEWOOD, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FlyColt45(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 2000
Subject: Re: RE: GPS FOR SALE
I have a Magellan EC 10X for sale. Purchased about 4 yrs ago at Sun & Fun for $1600. Color viewing display is 6.0" x 4.5." Has cig lighter connection. Used about 3-4 times. Has North American & Northeastern "detailed" data base. In original case w/ manual. Like new condition. First offer of $600. will sell. (561)533-1356 or (561)252-1233. Jim MKIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: light weight batteries
Date: Oct 25, 2000
Kolbers, A couple years ago I read about a new lightweight battery that was being introduced. I will be needing a battery for the Mark-3 this Spring and would like to learn more about these new ones. How much do they cost? Where can you buy them? What do they weigh? How do they hold up, ie lifespan? Compare to regular wet cell. I will be using either a 690L or a 582 engine so I figure I'll need around a 12-15 amp hr rating. Is this correct? Thanks, Denny Rowe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: RST intercom
Date: Oct 25, 2000
Has anyone tried the $80.00 RST intercom kit in a Kolb? I am in the process of figuring out my wiring on the Mark-3 and am looking at intercoms. I would rather go with a dual Lynx set up as I have used it in a friends Buckeye and it is worlds better than anything else I have tried, but $80 sounds ten times better than $800. Plus we already own two regular headsets. I need to know if the RST works OK in the ultralight type aircraft. Thanks Denny ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: GPS
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" >Hi all , I think with all he talk that the Garmin 111+ seems to be >the best for the money. If some one knows of a better one I would like to >know. sure . . . for about $115 you can purchase a GPS receiver that operates quite well in airplanes. Holds 200 waypoints (i've been flying my "dual gps" system for about three years and have a grand total of perhaps 40 waypoints stored). Presents excellent back-lighted display for night flight. Works even when the rest of the electrical system is OFF. In terms of bang for the buck, it's hard to beat the Magellan GPS310. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: RE: GPS
Date: Oct 25, 2000
Gil, Yes, they quoted me $485 for the Garmin III Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: <ggleiter(at)minn.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 3:36 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RE: GPS > > Sam Cox wrote: > > > > > > " I've been researching for last several days myself. So far here's what > > I found: Aircraft Spruce has best prices with noone even close ($485 for > > Garmin III). " > > > > My choice was the Garmin III + at Walmart and outdoor stores for $369. > > > > Sam Cox > > > The Garmin III at Walmart for $369 does NOT have the aviation data > base. Does the Garmin III from ACS have the aviation data base? > Believe the one that DOES have the data base is called the "Garmin III > Pilot" > > gil leiter > MAPLEWOOD, MN > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: light weight batteries
Date: Oct 25, 2000
Denny, I am using the UltrStart-Red, see: http://www.startstick.com/Products.html#UltraStartRed It weighs 4.4lbs & cranks my 582 like a car battery. I believe I paid almost $90 for it. I'm sold on it. ....Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 4:19 PM Subject: Kolb-List: light weight batteries > > Kolbers, > A couple years ago I read about a new lightweight battery that was being > introduced. > I will be needing a battery for the Mark-3 this Spring and would like to > learn more about these new ones. > How much do they cost? > Where can you buy them? > What do they weigh? > How do they hold up, ie lifespan? Compare to regular wet cell. > I will be using either a 690L or a 582 engine so I figure I'll need around a > 12-15 amp hr rating. Is this correct? > Thanks, > Denny Rowe > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Sticking relay with B&C starter.
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" >There are two more considerations in connection with solenoids that you >should be aware of. >1) If you have low battery voltage, like too much resistance in the line, >or maybe one of the old-style lead-acid batteries, or do too much >cranking, you can weld the contacts together. Quite true . . . and it can happen to ANY style contactor. >2) The commonly used solenoids (Wicks et al) have bolt heads inside for the >contacts. If you twist the posts by tightening the electrical cables too >tight on the outside, the bolt head on the inside can turn, so instead of >the contacts being the flat of the bolthead, it is one of the points, and >that greatly reduces the contact area, and could cause welding of the >contacts. Not sure about what Wicks is selling if it looks like: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/s701-1l.jpg then IT IS important to hold the nut up next to the contactor shell and keep it from turning while you tighten the wiring nut. ANY rotation of the threaded stud will render the contactor trash. If the contactor looks like: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/s702-1l.jpg Then the studs are captive in the contactors molded housing. With this style, twisting the stud will break the housing but at least you KNOW when you've cranked down on it too hard. >B and C Specialties has a special contactor where the posts can't turn, and >it avoids this problem. Benoit, would you like Bill Bainbridge to send you >one of these which is garaunteed not to stick? Don't know about "guaranteed" but they're really hard to stick. However, starters with failed wiring inside or low battery voltage can weld the best contactor . . . > To amplify what I said in one of my earlier posts, the battery >solenoid is energized when you turn on the master switch, and nothing else >should be on at that time, so you aren't switching any current. Most airplanes have several amps of things that are on all the time but a battery contactor is generally rated to SWITCH 70 amps or better. Normal bus loads don't errode the battery master contactor to any significant degree. > . . . .But when >you energize the starter solenoid, you could be switching as much as 600 >amps, which is the cranking power of the battery. That is why the starter >circuit goes directly from the battery to the starter . . . This is not recommended. All of our drawings and virtually every certified airplane takes starter current through the battery master contactor . . . if the starter contactor DOES stick, then the battery master gives you a way to shut things down. While a battery master contactor is rated to SWITCH 70 amps, it will nicely CARRY the 200-250 amps common to starting an engine. I've had builders try to use one of my S701-1 battery contactors as a starter contactor and didn't get very good service life . . . however the battery contactor was ALWAYS there to bring a potentially bad situation under control. > . . . and not through the power bus and the 50 amp circuit breaker. Not sure what breaker this is . . . some folks have a fat breaker in their alternator b-lead output to the bus. By-in-large, there's no practical application for fat breakers anywhere else in the system. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Sticking Contactors . . .
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" >There is something else to consider in installing solenoids (besides making >sure you have the right one in each application). You should install them >so that gravity assists the magnetic force in holding the contacts >together. Do not install them upside down! I recall a story circulated around OSH about ten years ago. Seems some show pilot landed and found a chewed up starter ring gear and his starter contactor was stuck shut. Some arm-chair engineering on the spot deduced that high g-loading during aerobatic maneuvers were responsible for "teasing" the contacts in flight and causing welding much like low battery voltage. The word went out like wildfire . . . tho shalt mount thy contactors UPSIDE down so that positive g-loading would not tend to close an open relay. The physics don't bear out any particular admonitions for orientation in the airplane. Once energized, a contactor has about 10x the force holding it closed than it takes to first move the contacts from a fully open position. Since a battery contact is ALWAYS closed, it's likely that you'll pull the wings off your airplane before you force the contactor open during a flight maneuver. Starter contactors (like our S702-1) have extra heavy springs to open them (to offset sticking tendencies) and extra heavy coils to close them (to offset contact bounce and subsequent damage from arcing while closing the high current load). G-loading effects on these contactors is even less significant than for the S701-1 continuous duty part. Further, starter contactors are normally mounted on firewall with base on vertical plane. This orientation puts g-loading sensitivity parallel to the longtitudinal axis of the airplane . . . don't fly into the side of a mountain, you might cause your starter contactor to close when you didn't want it to. By in large, all of the stories being circulated about contactor orientation and are not founded in the application or physics of the matter. IF the airshow pilot was using a poorly choosen device as a starter contactor (like our S701-1) AND it was oriented such that gravity helps close or keep the contacts closed, then it's thinkable that a 10g maneuver might have teased his starter contacts closed in flight. If he were using a REAL starter contactor installed accoding to recommendations, it would never happen. Maneuvering g-loads in airplanes you and I like to fly are not a risk to your various contactors. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RST intercom
Gents, > I need to know if the RST works OK in the ultralight type aircraft. I haven't tried a RST intercom in an ultralight, but have built two of them. One was installed in a Spezio Sport (2 place tandem open cockpit homebuilt biplane) and I use one in my GA Globe Swift. IMO, the price was right and they do work well. Skip ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Halstead" <deanbo(at)calweb.com>
Subject: Re: RST intercom
Date: Oct 25, 2000
I built and have used an RST intercom for several years but only in General Aviation aircraft. (Cessnas and Pipers). It has been very dependable and reliable. I use it with David Clark headsets. Can't give you any advise for using it in a Kolb since mine is not completely constructed but I'm intending on trying it next summer. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Robinson Kolb Donation
Dam fine job. I wish I was there to take you up on it. >Have a job opening--catching gators by hand. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Radio & GPS
Is there any way to use a hand >held with head phones and a push to talk switch on the control stick? > I need advice. Thanks > Bill Futrell > Garden City Mich > Mk111Extra > Hey Bill next time you come over I will show you my delcom set up from Sky sports. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Drain holes
Date: Oct 25, 2000
that's a good one -----Original Message----- From: WVarnes(at)aol.com <WVarnes(at)aol.com> Date: Monday, October 23, 2000 10:27 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Drain holes > >In a message dated 10/23/2000 6:52:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes: > ><< Also plan on snubbing up > the fuselage portion of the universal joint to get the slop > out of them. Kolb Aircraft had some thin 1/2 inch washers > that will make adjustment a little easier and do'able. It > was impossible to get them snugged up and still be able to > rotate them with the normal thickness washer. >> > >John H and other Kolbers, > >My friend Kenny Mancus (now gone with the angels) taught me a slick trick to >adjust these nuts to just the right tension. He simply laid a flat file down >on a sturdy surface, then took the nut and moved it back and forth on the >file, thus removing some material. You will be surprised at how little it >takes to make the nut tension just right so there is no slop. > >Bill Varnes >Original FireStar-Rotax 377 >Audubon, NJ USA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re:radio
<<<<< What is a good transceiver that has a good range.And do all of these work with a set head phones and mike. Is there any way to use a hand held with head phones and a push to talk switch on the control stick? I need advice. Thanks Bill Futrell>>>>>> i think all of the handhelds will do a good job if connected to a good antenna. as for the connection between the headset and the radio,,,,, most of the radio manufactures make a ptt switch that can be stick mounted to go between the radio and headset. as for me i picked up some jacks and mounted them in a small plastic project box from rad shack and wired them to fit . boyd utah ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: fabric rivits
We started to rivit the wing fabric to the ribs tonight. Didn't get to far. We can't seem to get a good tight rivet. The rivets seem to long. I tried squeezing and pushing without much luck. Am I missing something here. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: light weight batteries
Date: Oct 25, 2000
Richard, Thanks for the info on the battery. Thats the one I was thinking of. Four pounds sounds great, but $99.00 dollars is a little to steep, Linda said nope not enough bang for the buck, just get the ten pound $25.00 special down the road. Oh well maybe someday. I can't complain, today she let me place an Aircraft Spruce order. 1) 4.5 psi Facet fuel pump 2) Fuel flow valve 3) ACS Brake fluid tank, (Just like on Bill Woods AWsome Slingshot.) 4) Microflight spacemiser slip indicator 5) Pitot Static tube 6) 1/4" Curtiss drain valve 7) Glass fuel filter Total = $108.65 Its gonna be better than Christmas when that stuff arrives. Take Care, Denny Rowe -----Original Message----- From: Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> Date: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 5:41 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: light weight batteries > >Denny, > > I am using the UltrStart-Red, see: > >http://www.startstick.com/Products.html#UltraStartRed > >It weighs 4.4lbs & cranks my 582 like a car battery. I believe I paid >almost $90 for it. I'm sold on it. > ....Richard Swiderski >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> >To: "kolb-list" >Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 4:19 PM >Subject: Kolb-List: light weight batteries > > >> >> Kolbers, >> A couple years ago I read about a new lightweight battery that was being >> introduced. >> I will be needing a battery for the Mark-3 this Spring and would like to >> learn more about these new ones. >> How much do they cost? >> Where can you buy them? >> What do they weigh? >> How do they hold up, ie lifespan? Compare to regular wet cell. >> I will be using either a 690L or a 582 engine so I figure I'll need around >a >> 12-15 amp hr rating. Is this correct? >> Thanks, >> Denny Rowe >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2000
From: Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; m18) Gecko/20000929 Netscape6/6.0b3
Subject: Re: Universal Joints
One thing to remember when taking material off AN hardware - you are also taking off the cadmium coating which protects from the part from corrosion and stops any electrolysis between dissimilar metals. larrybiglar wrote: > > The idea of removing a bit of metal is a good, simple one. KISS, remember. > Thanks. When I was setting up my wings, I crawled thru the bins at Eagle > Hardware, and found several thicknesses of nylon washers. Thought they > might be a little easier on the paint ( powder coat ) when I fold the wings. > Shouldn't have worried, there's a fair amount of rust showing thru several > places on the powder coat, all over the fuselage pod. Next time > ( shudder ) I'll use epoxy primer, instead of powder coat. Also, will use > 1 medium nylon washer, and hone the nut, as below. Wiser > Lar. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <WVarnes(at)aol.com> > To: > Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:22 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Drain holes > > > >> >> In a message dated 10/23/2000 6:52:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >> hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes: >> >> << Also plan on snubbing up >> the fuselage portion of the universal joint to get the slop >> out of them. Kolb Aircraft had some thin 1/2 inch washers >> that will make adjustment a little easier and do'able. It >> was impossible to get them snugged up and still be able to >> rotate them with the normal thickness washer. >> >> >> John H and other Kolbers, >> >> My friend Kenny Mancus (now gone with the angels) taught me a slick trick > > to > >> adjust these nuts to just the right tension. He simply laid a flat file > > down > >> on a sturdy surface, then took the nut and moved it back and forth on the >> file, thus removing some material. You will be surprised at how little it >> takes to make the nut tension just right so there is no slop. >> >> Bill Varnes >> Original FireStar-Rotax 377 >> Audubon, NJ USA >> >> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Sticking relay
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" > Thanks for the overwhelming quantity of answers. It looks like it might be >a real problem. > I will answer to everybody in one message. > To be more precise on my configuration: > - The first starter relay I was using was the one sold by ACS (p/n 22735 on >their catalog) for homebuilders .It started to stick lets say after 3 months >of my initial testing ( I was already flying by that time) and was the one >used for the initial start of the engine when it was sometime a bit >difficult to start with a low battery. > - The second relay was bought in France to a company called Aerostock in Le >bourget airport. It started sticking after 15 days of use. I am now flying >quite often and the engine is firing very quickly and very nicely due to the >jeff rose ignition with a fully loaded battery ( I am flying a lot). > -I took it out and found out it a was a 24v relay. So I went back to >Aerostock and they changed it for a 12v one. The one I got looks very much >alike the master relay ( p/n 111-226 in ACS catalog). It started not doing >its job after a week. This explains it. NONE of heavy duty contactors in that package are suited to starter contactor service . . . for a time, RBM Controls, later White-Rogers, now Stancore built a series of intermittant duty relays with heavier coil wires and stronger closure forces but the way that contactor is designed internally, it just doesn't get the contact PRESSURE that modern automotive starter contactors enjoy. The contactor we sell (S702-1) is of this family of devices. > I know have two plans to attack that problem: > 1-A friend of mine gave me a brand new ACS 22735 relay he had in his >hangar. I might put that one on and keep the diodes that I had added on the >previous relay ( The first relay had a diode between the coil and ground but >not between the output and ground). Our conactor has the arc supression diode built into the contactor coil assembly. > 2-I recently bought a renault truck starter relay which looks impressive >(not to say massive) and very strong. I did not use it yet because I >measured the coil resistance and found out that it was 4 ohms. This would >mean that I would be pulling at least 3 amps through the triggering push >button and given the size of that button this would be way too much. So I >can decide to use it but I would have to trigger the coil of that new relay >through another relay, maybe the previous one that could accept that 3 amp >current easily. Is this overkill? No, the fact that you read the low resistance is FIRST indication that this is an intermittant duty contactor probably designed for higher contact pressures therefore much more suited to working with starters. Our S702-1 contactor is also a 4 ohm coil . . . The starter push-button we recommend is heaftier than most . . . or you can rig your magnetos to use switches and built the starter function into the switches. This is illustrated several ways in the diagrams at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/errata/R9Z_0400.pdf > I would like to thank for the LED advice. It is a very good one because I >had already implemented that in my bird and this is what allowed me to do >the identification of the problem.In fact , every switch has a Led that >lights up when it is on and the information is picked up trough a wire that >is coming from the back of the equipment the given switch is supposed to >energise.I like that set up a lot because I have an emergency power switch >that power a very minimum of what is needed ( to cover the alternator >failure) and when the switch is on "alternate" the LED's give me exactly >what is on. Do you also have some form of automatic disabling of the alternator in case of a failed regulator runaway? This needs to be an automatic function that operates in tens of milliseonds. Pilot monitoring of any instrumentation with the hope of adequately controlling a runaway > Well, this is were I am . It is late now and I am going to bed as you guys >are now working. > May be I will find out more to morrow morning with maybe a direct advice >from Bill bainbridge. Just burry in mind that I am now so happy to fly that >bird that waiting 3 or more days for a part coming from the states is too >much. I want to fly to-morrow except if the wheather is bad (it might >happen). Bill is going to tell you that you need a REAL starter contactor like his, like mine or probably like the one you just bought . . . however, it's possible that our contactors are smaller and lighter. My S701-1 is 280 gm and fits inside a 6 x 6 x 6 cm cube. Bill's is very close to the same dimensions. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WVarnes(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 2000
Subject: Re: Universal Joints
In a message dated 10/25/2000 11:42:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bweber2(at)earthlink.net writes: << One thing to remember when taking material off AN hardware - you are also taking off the cadmium coating which protects from the part from corrosion and stops any electrolysis between dissimilar metals. >> Very true. But in this particular case, since the surface is being rotated, the coating will be rubbed off anyway. Also, it is lubed and that will help prevent any rust or corrosion. BTW, I have done this on most of the control joints (where ever a castellated nut is being used) in order to eliminate slop there too. My Kolb is six years old with 375 hours and I haven't seen any problems in that area to date. Bill Varnes Original FireStar-Rotax 377 Audubon, NJ USA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Kolbras vs the Extra
If I can get a 90 mph top end, and an easy 75mph cruise on my MKIII with an antique 532, how could you NOT get a 90 mph cruise on an Extra with a 912? (Leave the flaps down?) Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) >Can you really get an honest 90mph cruise with a 912 on the Extra? > >Monte >Georgetown Tx. (Austin area) >mlotts1(at)mmm.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Brake Fluid
Date: Oct 25, 2000
On your #3, brake fluid tank: is that the clear one with the metal cap ?? 1/8" pipe fitting screws in the bottom ?? If it is, how do you permanently stop the leaks ?? My 1st one, if you'all remember a couple of years ago, I cracked the bottom by tightening the fitting too much. Used that "Tite-Seal" stuff on the 2nd one, and thought I had it whupped. Now, last weekend, John Wood came up from San Diego to look at my mighty project, and there's brake fluid all over the inside of the nose cone again. S.O.a.B. ! ! ! Also, the remaining fluid in the reservoir used to be red, now it's kinda pale orange. What gives ?? Why me ?? Again ?? Tarnation ! ! ! Frustrated Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 8:48 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: light weight batteries > > Richard, > Thanks for the info on the battery. Thats the one I was thinking of. > Four pounds sounds great, but $99.00 dollars is a little to steep, Linda > said nope not enough bang for the buck, just get the ten pound $25.00 > special down the road. Oh well maybe someday. > I can't complain, today she let me place an Aircraft Spruce order. > 1) 4.5 psi Facet fuel pump > 2) Fuel flow valve > 3) ACS Brake fluid tank, (Just like on Bill Woods AWsome Slingshot.) > 4) Microflight spacemiser slip indicator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2000
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RST intercom
Denny, Hey there buddy! Guess what! I went ahead and bought a Mk III yesterday!! Has a 582, adjustable prop, and a fair paint job, $14,000. I'll be picking it up around Thanksgiving! (from southern Indiana) But, the seller is keeping the radio so I'll need the whole works. Please keep me informed as to what you find out, or share what you think I need. More soon! --- Denny Rowe wrote: > > Has anyone tried the $80.00 RST intercom kit in a Kolb? > I am in the process of figuring out my wiring on the Mark-3 and am > looking > at intercoms. > I would rather go with a dual Lynx set up as I have used it in a > friends > Buckeye and it is worlds better than anything else I have tried, but > $80 > sounds ten times better than $800. Plus we already own two regular > headsets. > I need to know if the RST works OK in the ultralight type aircraft. > Thanks > Denny > > > > > > ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 26, 2000
Subject: used prop
I'm gonna be buying a Rotax 582 for my Mark III here soon and was wondering if anybody out there had a good used prop for sale? Thanks in advance ___!___ -----------( / )----------- " " Bill Johnston Jr Building Mark III Classic Harpers Ferry, WV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Fw: Brake Fluid
Date: Oct 26, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net> Date: Thursday, October 26, 2000 9:33 AM Subject: Re: Brake Fluid > >-----Original Message----- >From: larrybiglar <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com ; Denny Rowe > >Date: Thursday, October 26, 2000 2:58 AM >Subject: Brake Fluid > > >>On your #3, brake fluid tank: is that the clear one with the metal cap ?? > >No, mine is the ACS brand welded alluminum reservoir that is pictured above >your unit in the 99-00 Aircraft Spruce catalog $11.60 each part# A-600. >They have a 1/8 male nipple that the folks with toe brakes can thread right >into each master cylinder and the resovoir will move with the rudder pedals, >no other mounting required. However since my brakes are the regular Kolb >heel units, I am mounting only one resovoir somwhere between the two master >cylinders and teeing the line, ( another weight saving step) :-) > These alluminum units have a really Tricked out hand made look to them, >that really caught mine and Lindas eye at the Kolb fly-in. > >Check them out, Bill had no complaints with them at all. > > >>1/8" pipe fitting screws in the bottom ?? If it is, how do you permanently >>stop the leaks ?? My 1st one, if you'all remember a couple of years ago, I >>cracked the bottom by tightening the fitting too much. Used that >>"Tite-Seal" stuff on the 2nd one, and thought I had it whupped. Now, last >>weekend, John Wood came up from San Diego to look at my mighty project, and >>there's brake fluid all over the inside of the nose cone again. S.O.a.B. ! >>! ! Also, the remaining fluid in the reservoir used to be red, now it's >>kinda pale orange. What gives ?? Why me ?? Again ?? Tarnation ! ! ! >>Frustrated Lar. >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> >>To: ; "Richard Swiderski" >>Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 8:48 PM >>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: light weight batteries >> >> >>> >>> Richard, >>> Thanks for the info on the battery. Thats the one I was thinking of. >>> Four pounds sounds great, but $99.00 dollars is a little to steep, Linda >>> said nope not enough bang for the buck, just get the ten pound $25.00 >>> special down the road. Oh well maybe someday. >>> I can't complain, today she let me place an Aircraft Spruce order. >>> 1) 4.5 psi Facet fuel pump >>> 2) Fuel flow valve >>> 3) ACS Brake fluid tank, (Just like on Bill Woods AWsome Slingshot.) >>> 4) Microflight spacemiser slip indicator >> >> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com>
Subject: Rib fabric rivets.....
Date: Oct 26, 2000
____ From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> Subject: Kolb-List: fabric rivits We started to rivit the wing fabric to the ribs tonight. Didn't get to far. We can't seem to get a good tight rivet. The rivets seem to long. I tried squeezing and pushing without much luck. Am I missing something here. Woody... You're probably using a 1/8 inch drill for the holes, use a #30 drill, it's .003 larger. The extra clearance will solve the problem. Jim & Dondi Miller Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com www.aircrafttechsupport.com E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2000
From: ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: fabric rivits
Woody Try a #30 bit if you are using a 1/8". Have heard that this will make a difference. Don't have first hand experience but something about the larger hole (.1285)allows the rivet to pull down. I am sure that there are people on the list that know and can advise you. Ed MK3/X Dallas, Tx --- Woody wrote: > > > We started to rivit the wing fabric to the ribs > tonight. Didn't get to far. > We can't seem to get a good tight rivet. The rivets > seem to long. I tried > squeezing and pushing without much luck. Am I > missing something here. > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2000
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Sorry guys, I cheated - got a donation
I found someone to DONATE a Mk III to me !!! It has a 582 with 25 hours, IVO g/u prop, new glass, brakes, and a fair paint job! I was so happy I donated back to him some cash for him to buy 7,000 one dollar lottery tickets! It jumps nicely off ol' terra firma. I'll be picking it up around Thanksgiving when I'll be so excited I'll donate to him more cash to buy another 7,000 one dollar lottery tickets! Although I love building planes & stuff like this, I couldn't stand the thought of losing out on the great winter weather in Florida. (I know it's not an u/l, but hope to have my PPL by the end of year - just solo'd Sunday :-) Getting back......the "donator" is keeping the radio so I'll need the whole works. What are you finding is the best for full radio options? Also, it has no lights, beacon, nuttin', has anyone put lights at the end of wings that were not built in? Next, he took off the oil injection system, and uses premixed 50:1. It exhausts into the prop of course, but oil gets blown all over. Is this normal? Is there a way to strain out out the oil from the exhaust? More, has anyone put wheel pants over the 600 size tires on a MkIII? It has the extended axels for them What about, trailering with the wings attached (950 miles of Interstate)? I'm thinking it's too much weight/bouncing, etc., and want to take them off.............your thoughts? Finally (for now) where shall I install my 8-track player? THANKS you all, it's a wonderful thing having you experts so close p.s. This is why I haven't finished the Kolb Owners Database, but will this weekend....just did 1,900 miles in 37 hours chasing down this donation! ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Sorry guys, I cheated - got a donation
Date: Oct 26, 2000
Congrats again John, and Lynn has my sympathy. Big Grin. Some comments below. -----Original Message----- From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> Date: Thursday, October 26, 2000 10:23 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Sorry guys, I cheated - got a donation > >I found someone to DONATE a Mk III to me !!! > >It has a 582 with 25 hours, IVO g/u prop, new glass, brakes, and a fair >paint job! I was so happy I donated back to him some cash for him to >buy 7,000 one dollar lottery tickets! It jumps nicely off ol' terra >firma. I'll be picking it up around Thanksgiving when I'll be so >excited I'll donate to him more cash to buy another 7,000 one dollar >lottery tickets! > >Although I love building planes & stuff like this, I couldn't stand the >thought of losing out on the great winter weather in Florida. (I know >it's not an u/l, but hope to have my PPL by the end of year - just >solo'd Sunday :-) > Thats more Great news, and more Congratulations from the Rowehouse! >Getting back......the "donator" is keeping the radio so I'll need the >whole works. What are you finding is the best for full radio options? > >Also, it has no lights, beacon, nuttin', has anyone put lights at the >end of wings that were not built in? > If you have inspection plates near the wingtips, you can cut a hole in the fabric at the inboard end just in front of the mainspar attatch fitting, with the wings folded and the leading edge facing the floor you can fish a garden hose through the wing spar and retrieve it at the wing tip inspection hole. Than the hose can be used to pull your strobe lead wire through. If you don't have the tip end inspection holes, Jim and Dondi can help you with how to add them. In a couple days, I should have some photos to e-mail you that will show where to locate the the inspection holes so you can butt splice the Kuntzleman tip strobes. >Next, he took off the oil injection system, and uses premixed 50:1. >It exhausts into the prop of course, but oil gets blown all over. Is >this normal? Is there a way to strain out out the oil from the >exhaust? >Check your plugs and EGT to make sure you are not jetted to rich, by getting your jetting correct, you sould minimize the drooling. But nothing will eliminate it. >More, has anyone put wheel pants over the 600 size tires on a MkIII? >It has the extended axels for them > >What about, trailering with the wings attached (950 miles of >Interstate)? I'm thinking it's too much weight/bouncing, etc., and >want to take them off.............your thoughts? > TAKE THEM OFF AND TAKE LOTS OF PADDING BUNGEE CORDS AND TIE DOWN STRAPS WITH YOU. If the trailer is enclosed stand the wings against the walls with the leading edge down. You will need to tie them in a way that will keep the ailerons and flaps against the wall so they do not flap. If it is an open trailer, Take two by fours, a saw , hammer and nails with you so you can build racks under the tailboom for the wings to stack flat under the tail, you will also have to build a rack under the tail wheel to raise it enough for the wings to fit. Disregard this info upon receipt of better ideas. :-) >Finally (for now) where shall I install my 8-track player? > Just under the fuzzy dice hanging from your rearview mirror. > >THANKS you all, it's a wonderful thing having you experts so close > Experts? Me? whoops maybe I should have kept my comments to myself. Good Luck, Denny > >p.s. This is why I haven't finished the Kolb Owners Database, but will >this weekend....just did 1,900 miles in 37 hours chasing down this >donation! > > >===== >John & Lynn Richmond :-) > >Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Some thoughts spike catcher diodes . . .
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" A reader comments on the practice of putting diodes across the coil of a contactor . . > A diode connected in this way is usually suggested to clamp the inductive > voltage spike resulting from de-energizing the relay coil. The problem is > that it provides a path for the current caused by the collapsing magnetic > field. The net result is that the amount of time it takes to open the > relay *increases*. This exacerbates the issue of a sticking relay in that > a slower release time causes more arcing at the contacts. Yeeeaaahhh BUT . . . I've never been able to document much change in the contact spreading velocity of the contactors we sell and recommend when a diode is included in the contactor's coil circuit. I have been able to document wear and tear on the switch that controls the contactor and it's much worse if the diode is left off. On starter contactors, the spring tension that opens contacts is MUCH larger than for the continuous duty contacts. Further, given the higher coil current, it's more important that this stored energy be calmly dealt with than with battery contactors. Hence, our starter contactors come with the diode BUILT IN. I have to believe that the folks who make these by the millions for ground based vehicles find this a useful thing to do. Battery contactors are generally opened up with VERY mild loads on the main terminals . . . so again, it's more useful to tame the contactor's stored coil energy than to be concerned with contact opening velocity. > A better way is to dump the current of the collapsing field into the > battery. You can do this by connecting the diode across the starter > switch (cathode band to the battery side of the switch) rather than the > coil. This is a higher impedance path, and it allows the coil magnetic > field to collapse faster while still clamping the voltage. Not so. I've done an article on spike catching diodes and posted it to: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/spikecatcher.pdf It's rather large (500K .pdf file) and I appologize for the size but it has 4 pictures of oscilloscope traces taken from test setups on my bench this morning. If you want to get the straight skinny on this topic, I'll suggest it's worth the download time. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Darren Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org>
"Kolb-List Digest Server"
Subject: fabric riveting
Date: Oct 26, 2000
> >>We started to rivit the wing fabric to the ribs tonight. Didn't get to > far. > >>We can't seem to get a good tight rivet. The rivets seem to long. I tried > >>squeezing and pushing without much luck. Am I missing something here. Hi Woody: Had a problem doin that also- stuck the rivet gun thru the fabric on my first rivet- :( Don't use a air rivet gun, use a hand squeeze, and pull slowly while gently wiggling the rivet. this shortens the rivet, and will alow the rivet to come up to the fabric. Darren Smalec, Central MI, FS1, 121 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Darren Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org>
"Kolb-List Digest Server"
Subject: fabric riveting
Date: Oct 26, 2000
> >>We started to rivit the wing fabric to the ribs tonight. Didn't get to > far. > >>We can't seem to get a good tight rivet. The rivets seem to long. I tried > >>squeezing and pushing without much luck. Am I missing something here. Hi Woody: Had a problem doin that also- stuck the rivet gun thru the fabric on my first rivet- :( Don't use a air rivet gun, use a hand squeeze, and pull slowly while gently wiggling the rivet. this shortens the rivet, and will alow the rivet to come up to the fabric. Darren Smalec, Central MI, FS1, 121 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: fabric riveting
Date: Oct 26, 2000
Hi Woody and Gang, I used the #30 drill bit and didn't have any problem. Please be very careful when installing these rivets. I don't know if it was just the batch of rivets I had or what, but when the shank of the rivet popped off it would leave a small portion of the stem sticking out of the rivet gun. If your pressing down and the gun slides off to the side it will tear a hole in the fabric. I've got two patches for testimony. Later, John Coolly Building FS II #1162 Lucedale, Ms. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darren Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 1:50 PM Subject: Kolb-List: fabric riveting > > > > >>We started to rivit the wing fabric to the ribs tonight. Didn't get to > > far. > > >>We can't seem to get a good tight rivet. The rivets seem to long. I > tried > > >>squeezing and pushing without much luck. Am I missing something here. > > Hi Woody: > Had a problem doin that also- stuck the rivet gun thru the fabric on my > first rivet- :( > Don't use a air rivet gun, use a hand squeeze, and pull slowly while gently > wiggling the rivet. this shortens the rivet, and will alow the rivet to come > up to the fabric. > Darren Smalec, Central MI, FS1, 121 hrs. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: light weight batteries
Date: Oct 26, 2000
Denny, I've not found a 10 lb. conventional battery that would adequately spin a 582. My experience is that they are all in the 14-16 lb. range & well above $25. The UltraStart-Red at 1/4 the weight and less than double the cost is not really an outrageous price. If you have actually found a 10 lb. conventional battery for $25 that will spin a 582 I would appreciate that info, as I would opt for it myself on my next purchase. Thanks. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 11:48 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: light weight batteries > > Richard, > Thanks for the info on the battery. Thats the one I was thinking of. > Four pounds sounds great, but $99.00 dollars is a little to steep, Linda > said nope not enough bang for the buck, just get the ten pound $25.00 > special down the road. Oh well maybe someday. > I can't complain, today she let me place an Aircraft Spruce order. > 1) 4.5 psi Facet fuel pump > 2) Fuel flow valve > 3) ACS Brake fluid tank, (Just like on Bill Woods AWsome Slingshot.) > 4) Microflight spacemiser slip indicator > 5) Pitot Static tube > 6) 1/4" Curtiss drain valve > 7) Glass fuel filter > Total = $108.65 > Its gonna be better than Christmas when that stuff arrives. > Take Care, > Denny Rowe > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Swiderski <swidersk(at)digital.net> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com ; Denny Rowe > > Date: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 5:41 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: light weight batteries > > > > > >Denny, > > > > I am using the UltrStart-Red, see: > > > >http://www.startstick.com/Products.html#UltraStartRed > > > >It weighs 4.4lbs & cranks my 582 like a car battery. I believe I paid > >almost $90 for it. I'm sold on it. > > ....Richard Swiderski > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> > >To: "kolb-list" > >Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2000 4:19 PM > >Subject: Kolb-List: light weight batteries > > > > > >> > >> Kolbers, > >> A couple years ago I read about a new lightweight battery that was being > >> introduced. > >> I will be needing a battery for the Mark-3 this Spring and would like to > >> learn more about these new ones. > >> How much do they cost? > >> Where can you buy them? > >> What do they weigh? > >> How do they hold up, ie lifespan? Compare to regular wet cell. > >> I will be using either a 690L or a 582 engine so I figure I'll need > around > >a > >> 12-15 amp hr rating. Is this correct? > >> Thanks, > >> Denny Rowe > >> > >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thumb" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: GPS
Date: Oct 26, 2000
Hi All Just a couple more questions about hand held GPS.From what I have read The Garmin 111+ does not have a aviation data base like the Garmin 111 Pilot.What does the aviation data base give you? Looks like the Garmin 111+ would give a better ground detail showing all roads, lakes,airports,city's and everything we would normally use. Like reading a sectional chart. So what does the Garmin 111 Pilot with the aviation data base give you that the 111+ does not have?. What is the difference? Thanks Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Sorry guys, I cheated - got a donation
> > >Finally (for now) where shall I install my 8-track player? > Put it below and to the right of the fuzzy dice. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: GPS
Date: Oct 26, 2000
Bill, I'm no authority on how they are different because I've not had either one. What I personally am looking for is something to help me stay out of airspace I'm not suppose to be in. It's getting complicated & I have to zig zag to go from point A to point B. Having the airport frequencies & runway numbers is real nice as well. With a Garmin III, you still need a sectional in your hand. Good luck. I just placed a bid on eBay for a Lowance AirMap. So far, at $180.00, I have the high bid. And this will do almost everything that a new, top of the line, Garmin 195 for $1100 will do. This is my best guess way to go. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thumb" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 10:38 PM Subject: Kolb-List: GPS > > Hi All > Just a couple more questions about hand held GPS.From > what I have read The Garmin 111+ does not have a aviation data base like the > Garmin 111 Pilot.What does the aviation data base give you? > Looks like the Garmin 111+ would give a better ground detail showing all > roads, lakes,airports,city's and everything we would normally use. Like > reading a sectional chart. > So what does the Garmin 111 Pilot with the aviation data base give you > that the 111+ does not have?. > What is the difference? > Thanks Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: fabric rivits
Thanks all for the input on the rivits. I will try it out next Wednesday. 26 weeks of working on the mk111 one night per week and we are almost at a standstill waiting for a plan to purchase an engine and instruments. Any one wanna make a donation? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: fabric rivits
Date: Oct 26, 2000
Woody, I have a geo engine plus 2 full sets of wiring harnesses & brains (E3 computers). I was going with the Geo, but found a used 582. I've got $500 into the geo...if it's something you're interested in, I'll make it a good deal for you. Chris -----Original Message----- From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> Date: Thursday, October 26, 2000 9:51 PM Subject: Kolb-List: fabric rivits > >Thanks all for the input on the rivits. I will try it out next Wednesday. >26 weeks of working on the mk111 one night per week and we are almost at a >standstill waiting for a plan to purchase an engine and instruments. Any >one wanna make a donation? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Help! I blew it!!!
Date: Oct 26, 2000
I missed with the 3/8 hole for the H section through the 5" wing spar, came off by about 3/4 ". Will having an extra 3/8" hole at this area weaken the spar too much to be safely used? Anyone else do this? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Re: fabric rivits
Date: Oct 26, 2000
Bless you my son! Go forth and build. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 7:30 PM Subject: Kolb-List: fabric rivits > > Thanks all for the input on the rivits. I will try it out next Wednesday. > 26 weeks of working on the mk111 one night per week and we are almost at a > standstill waiting for a plan to purchase an engine and instruments. Any > one wanna make a donation? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2000
From: Tom Kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Subject: Re: Help! I blew it!!!
Ken, <> If you rotate the H section 90 degrees, the excess holes will be at a point of essentially zero stress. In theory you could put a series of lightening holes on the front and rear faces of the tubular spar. How big and how close together would need some serious stress analysis however. <> Yep, been there, done that. Different circumstance, same situation. Tom Kuffel, building Original FireStar Whitefish, MT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2000
From: Ken Chellis <chellis(at)theofficenet.com>
Subject: Re: stop e-mail
please stop all e-mail to me--all--K Chellis ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 2000
From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
Subject: Re: fabric riveting
John Cooley wrote: > > > Hi Woody and Gang, > I used the #30 drill bit and didn't have any problem. Please be very > careful when installing these rivets. I don't know if it was just the batch > of rivets I had or what, but when the shank of the rivet popped off it would > leave a small portion of the stem sticking out of the rivet gun. If your > pressing down and the gun slides off to the side it will tear a hole in the > fabric. I've got two patches for testimony. > > Later, > John Coolly Real bummer when the mandril breaks off and leaves a bit sticking out. Only solution I know is CAREFUL use of a Dremel tool, followed by even more careful use of a micro file. Good idea to punch a hole the size of the rivet head in masking tape and use it as a protective mask when doing the surgery. gil leiter MAPLEWOOD, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 2000
From: ggleiter(at)minn.net
Subject: Re: fabric rivits
WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Woody, > I was having same problem and when I punched a hole on the wing's fabric I > was so mad I took it out on the rivets. > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080746.JPG HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080746.JPG">Click here. > > My problem was the rivets were bottoming out on the inside lower part of the > rib tube. > I put an old rivet gun on a vice, slid the rivets into the rivet gun. > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080749.JPG HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080749.JPG">Click here > > I then used a file to take the round tip off the shank. > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080748.JPG HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080748.JPG">Click here > > This helped the rivet go further into the hole, it still bottomed out but at > least I got a good tight fit when I pulled it. > Don't take off too much or you'll weaken the shank and then it won't pull the > rivet. > The patch job came out OK and is not noticeable after painting. > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7090772.JPG HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7090772.JPG">Click here > > Good luck > Will Uribe > El Paso, TX > > In a message dated 10/25/00 11:07:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > duesouth(at)govital.net writes: > > > We started to rivit the wing fabric to the ribs tonight. Didn't get to far. > > We can't seem to get a good tight rivet. The rivets seem to long. I tried > > squeezing and pushing without much luck. Am I missing something here. Sometimes if one has a problem of the "rivets bottoming out" the problem can be solved by: First squeeze the rivet tool VERY GENTLY. Just enough to start to pull up the end of the rivet, but not far enough to start to distort the rivet where it goes through the hole. Then push down on the gun head , and and the rivet will go in a little farther. Then complete the squeeze and set of the rivet. Of course, this only works when the amount of excess length is small. gil leiter MAPLEWOOD, MN. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron C Reece" <rcreec(at)ftw.rsc.raytheon.com>
Date: Oct 27, 2000
Bill As others have said, the only real important thing I can think of that the "pilot" will give you, where the others (land base) will not, is the display of controlled airspace areas. The pilot model displays the control zone information (ring) around various airports. You might find this handy so that one wouldn't venture into someone's airspace by accident. : ( Their might be other differences, but for ME, this one is the biggie size difference. I have check-out various GPS units (land Vs. air) and have always stuck with the air model. Another thought is what are you going to use it for? Local area or cross country? If I were going to use it for local stuff, I might buy the land base model. You get your roads and other stuff and like all good pilots, you should already know where your airspace restrictions are in your area. If cross country is your thing, well I think I would pick the air model for the reason stated above. I hope I muddied the water a little for ya. Good luck. Ron Reece Fort Wayne, IN FSII tail and L. wing done. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BICUM(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 27, 2000
Subject: 22KuF Capacitor on Voltage Regulator
Hello List, Yesterday I started wiring things up on my Mark III (912 w/ EIS). I must confess to be electronically illiterate (i.e. stupid). I was wondering if anyone could give me a simpleton explanation on what the 22,000 uF / 25V capacitor does between the +B lead on the Ducati regulator and ground. I kinda like to understand why things are on my airplane, call me picky. I realized I messed up the other day and bought a 22,000 uF / 16V capacitor. I'll see if I can exchange it for a 25V today. If anyone is in the mood and would like to explain what function the R , +B, L, and C leads serve on the regulator, I'd be interested. Bob N. please type slow, I have trouble keeping up with your post sometimes. I puchased your book and and still working on a lot of that reading. On the schematic in the Rotax installation manual all these (R, +B, L, and C) leads are pretty much jumped together and then go to ground through the capacitor. Maybe if you speak italian these letters mean something obvious to you. I'd kinda like to understand some of this stuff in case I get into a troubleshooting situation, especially in the air. Thanks again as always, John Bickham St. Francisville, LA Mark III - 912 N308JB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: 22KuF Capacitor on Voltage Regulator
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" >Yesterday I started wiring things up on my Mark III (912 w/ EIS). I must >confess to be electronically illiterate (i.e. stupid). I was wondering if >anyone could give me a simpleton explanation on what the 22,000 uF / 25V >capacitor does between the +B lead on the Ducati regulator and ground. I >kinda like to understand why things are on my airplane, call me picky. I >realized I messed up the other day and bought a 22,000 uF / 16V capacitor. >I'll see if I can exchange it for a 25V today. This capacitor is a filter to remove the LARGE amount of noise that rides on the output of these alternators. 22,000/16V is probably okay but it doesn't hurt to have a tad higher votlage rating. We stock a 47,000/16V device. Make sure it's a COMPUTER GRADE electrolytic. It needs to have 10-32 threaded terminals. Capacitors with wires or small solder terminals are not suited to this task. Also, when selecting capacitors, long and skinny is better than short and fat. These critters come in several form factors and the smaller the diameter the better . . . it dumps heat better. >If anyone is in the mood and would like to explain what function the R , +B, >L, and C leads serve on the regulator, I'd be interested. Bob N. please type >slow, I have trouble keeping up with your post sometimes. I puchased your >book and and still working on a lot of that reading. On the schematic in the >Rotax installation manual all these (R, +B, L, and C) leads are pretty much >jumped together and then go to ground through the capacitor. Maybe if you >speak italian these letters mean something obvious to you. I'm guessing because I've not been able to get real information from Rotax . . . I'm not sure they know. If I were to bet on the labels: +B = power output from alternator to the airplane R ?=? Sense lead to let the regulator know what the alternator's output voltage is . . . L = Idiot light output - NOT a substitute for at least a good voltmeter in the sytem to know what the alternator is REALLY doing. C = Control lead that turns the altenrator ON/OFF via remote switch. >I'd kinda like to understand some of this stuff in case I get into a >troubleshooting situation, especially in the air. > >Thanks again as always, > >John Bickham >St. Francisville, LA >Mark III - 912 >N308JB > > Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: stop e-mail
Date: Oct 27, 2000
"Christopher John Armstrong" Ken Chellis Ken you need to go to this web page and request to be unsubscribed from the list. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 2000
From: Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com>
Subject: Re: Help! I blew it!!!
Sure it will weken it plus i wouldn't fly it if i was you i would sell it? i will buy the whole kit and kabottle for say $ 5.00 call me or email me if intrested? Ken Broste wrote: > > I missed with the 3/8 hole for the H section through the 5" wing spar, came > off by about 3/4 ". Will having an extra 3/8" hole at this area weaken the > spar too much to be safely used? Anyone else do this? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 2000
From: Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com>
Subject: Re: GPS
save your money! i wouln't buy one hell just fly in the airspace? no one will no plus who cares maybe you will get on tv? Richard Swiderski wrote: > > Bill, > > I'm no authority on how they are different because I've not had either > one. What I personally am looking for is something to help me stay out of > airspace I'm not suppose to be in. It's getting complicated & I have to zig > zag to go from point A to point B. Having the airport frequencies & runway > numbers is real nice as well. With a Garmin III, you still need a sectional > in your hand. Good luck. > I just placed a bid on eBay for a Lowance AirMap. So far, at $180.00, I > have the high bid. And this will do almost everything that a new, top of the > line, Garmin 195 for $1100 will do. This is my best guess way to go. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Thumb" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 10:38 PM > Subject: Kolb-List: GPS > > > > > Hi All > > Just a couple more questions about hand held GPS.From > > what I have read The Garmin 111+ does not have a aviation data base like > the > > Garmin 111 Pilot.What does the aviation data base give you? > > Looks like the Garmin 111+ would give a better ground detail showing all > > roads, lakes,airports,city's and everything we would normally use. Like > > reading a sectional chart. > > So what does the Garmin 111 Pilot with the aviation data base give you > > that the 111+ does not have?. > > What is the difference? > > Thanks Bill > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 2000
From: Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com>
Subject: Re: fabric rivits
Dont worry about it besides who going to see the rivets? and dont worry about the fabric just paint it use screws #8 then find a sucker to by it. but make sure they have plenty of life insurance maybe you should get some too. tell them to buy some real good crazy glue you can find it at any hardware store but make sure it has oxynaol#9 so that when it rain's the glue will come apart. also you should tell him it needs #9 nails to hold the fabric together. even tell him that you will start the engine for him and make sure its running good maybe even pull the oil plug to show him there's no oil in the motor. also make sure you take the prop bolts off so he can see the prop turn while the engine is running. p.s let me know the outcome. ggleiter(at)minn.net wrote: > > WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > > > Woody, > > I was having same problem and when I punched a hole on the wing's fabric I > > was so mad I took it out on the rivets. > > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080746.JPG > HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080746.JPG">Click here. > > > > My problem was the rivets were bottoming out on the inside lower part of the > > rib tube. > > I put an old rivet gun on a vice, slid the rivets into the rivet gun. > > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080749.JPG > HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080749.JPG">Click here > > > > I then used a file to take the round tip off the shank. > > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080748.JPG > HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7080748.JPG">Click here > > > > This helped the rivet go further into the hole, it still bottomed out but at > > least I got a good tight fit when I pulled it. > > Don't take off too much or you'll weaken the shank and then it won't pull the > > rivet. > > The patch job came out OK and is not noticeable after painting. > > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7090772.JPG > HREF="http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/P7090772.JPG">Click here > > > > Good luck > > Will Uribe > > El Paso, TX > > > > In a message dated 10/25/00 11:07:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > > duesouth(at)govital.net writes: > > > > > We started to rivit the wing fabric to the ribs tonight. Didn't get to far. > > > We can't seem to get a good tight rivet. The rivets seem to long. I tried > > > squeezing and pushing without much luck. Am I missing something here. > > Sometimes if one has a problem of the "rivets bottoming out" the problem > can be solved by: > > First squeeze the rivet tool VERY GENTLY. Just enough to start to pull > up the end of the rivet, but not far enough to start to distort the > rivet where it goes through the hole. Then push down on the gun head , > and and the rivet will go in a little farther. Then complete the > squeeze and set of the rivet. Of course, this only works when the > amount of excess length is small. > > gil leiter > MAPLEWOOD, MN. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 2000
From: Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com>
Subject: Re: fabric riveting
you guys have it all wrong the plans call for a 2inch wood bit just drill and use 3inch rivets they work real good that should't take to long. when you have that done go to the hardware store and get you some of that elmers glue. buy 4 gallons and dump it all over the wing and then apply the fabric with a regular clothes iron. make sure the fabric is real tight you woulnd't want it to come off in flight let me know how it turn out.... ggleiter(at)minn.net wrote: > > John Cooley wrote: > > > > > > Hi Woody and Gang, > > I used the #30 drill bit and didn't have any problem. Please be very > > careful when installing these rivets. I don't know if it was just the batch > > of rivets I had or what, but when the shank of the rivet popped off it would > > leave a small portion of the stem sticking out of the rivet gun. If your > > pressing down and the gun slides off to the side it will tear a hole in the > > fabric. I've got two patches for testimony. > > > > Later, > > John Coolly > > > > Real bummer when the mandril breaks off and leaves a bit sticking out. > Only solution I know is CAREFUL use of a Dremel tool, followed by even > more careful use of a micro file. Good idea to punch a hole the size of > the rivet head in masking tape and use it as a protective mask when > doing the surgery. > > gil leiter > MAPLEWOOD, MN > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BICUM(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 27, 2000
Subject: Re: 22KuF Capacitor on Voltage Regulator
Thanks Bob. I did not know about the computer grade terminals. What would be the difference between the 22K and 47K uF capaictors as far as how they perform and the function they serve in filtering out the noise. Thanks again, John Bickham St. Francisville, LA Mark III -912 N308JB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com>
Subject: fabric rivits
Date: Oct 27, 2000
Why you posting such crap to this list? The thing that scares me is that someone out there dummber than you might actually believe some of this garbage. The first post was cute. The rest is a waste of time and bandwidth. Go flying or something, please. > > Dont worry about it besides who going to see the rivets? and dont > worry about the > fabric just paint it use screws #8 then find a sucker to by it. > but make sure they > have plenty of life insurance maybe you should get some too. tell > them to buy some > real good crazy glue you can find it at any hardware store but > make sure it has > oxynaol#9 > so that when it rain's the glue will come apart. also you should > tell him it needs > #9 nails to hold the fabric together. even tell him that you will > start the engine > for him and make sure its running good maybe even pull the oil > plug to show him > there's no oil in the motor. also make sure you take the prop > bolts off so he can > see the prop turn while the engine is running. p.s let me know > the outcome. > And more worthless Drivel... you guys have it all wrong the plans call for a 2inch wood bit just drill and use 3inch rivets they work real good that should't take to long. when you have that done go to the hardware store and get you some of that elmers glue. buy 4 gallons and dump it all over the wing and then apply the fabric with a regular clothes iron. make sure the fabric is real tight you woulnd't want it to come off in flight let me know how it turn out.... and it goes on and on... Sure it will weken it plus i wouldn't fly it if i was you i would sell it? i will buy the whole kit and kabottle for say $ 5.00 call me or email me if intrested? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Help! I blew it!!!
You smokin sometin illegal today Paul? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TCowan1917(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 27, 2000
Subject: Re: 5" tube hole
Well, my rule of thumb is if I put an extra hole, I put a rivet in it. Thats your answer Tom Kuffel, put a three quarter inch ss rivet in it. a cherry max if you can get one. Ted Cowan. I bet Arnold S. could do it for you. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 27, 2000
From: Annamarie <vincentam(at)chartermi.net>
Subject: Lexan gap seal
I bought a used Firestar II with a cloth gap seal between the wings. While flying last summer the gap seal blew off, I lost a tremendous amount of lift. I then made a gap seal out of Lexan. I am not sure but...it seems like I have allot more lift with the Lexon than I did with the cloth gap seal. I thought perhaps someone may be interested in this information. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Help! I blew it!!!
Date: Oct 27, 2000
I broke the kabottle last week. I got mad and threw it against the wall. I'm sure you wouldn't want it now. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Robinson" <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2000 10:13 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Help! I blew it!!! > Sure it will weken it plus i wouldn't fly it if i was you i would sell it? i > will buy the whole kit and kabottle for say $ 5.00 call me or email me if > intrested? > > Ken Broste wrote: > > > > > I missed with the 3/8 hole for the H section through the 5" wing spar, came > > off by about 3/4 ". Will having an extra 3/8" hole at this area weaken the > > spar too much to be safely used? Anyone else do this? > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 27, 2000
Subject: Re: fabric rivits
In a message dated 10/27/00 3:16:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jstewart(at)ncfcomm.com writes: << Why you posting such crap to this list? The thing that scares me is that someone out there dummber than you might actually believe some of this garbage. The first post was cute. The rest is a waste of time and bandwidth. Go flying or something, please. >> He can't; no-one donated a Mk III to him yet. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: HELP! Gull Wing door builders! I need advice.
Date: Oct 27, 2000
Gull wing door builders, Tonight Linda and I began installing the Gull wing door Lexan on the passenger side of the Mark 3. It appears that I built the rear door bows a little long and thus the lexan will not pull up snug at the joint between the door and the fixed bow that runs from the lower door frame up to the center post. I am considering removing the rear bottom door gussets and cutting 3/4" fom the rear door bow in order to pull the gap closed. Where we are at right now is we have a rough piece of lexan riveted to the center hinge along a factory cut edge. It is cut roughly to shape but way oversized on all edges but the hinge. The front appears to fit nicely when the lexan is pulled up tight against the front door frame tube. The bottom door frame tube seems like it will be about an inch or less from the fuselage tube at the front corner when the door is closed. This seems fine. However the rear end of the bottom door frame tube appears as though it will bottom on the door frame before the lexan pulls tight over the rear enclosure. Here is my question: How exactly did you Gull wingers install your lexan to make sure you did not get any waves in it ? Advise please, I am not drilling anothe hole until I know I won't ruin this sheet. Sorry about the rambling. Denny aka: worried Yankee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Mark-3 lexan rear enclosure
Date: Oct 27, 2000
Kolbers, My buddy just scanned some of my rear enclosure photos for me tonight and e-mailed them to me. If any of you would like to see them let me know off list and I'll e-mail them to you. I'll try to include a little blurb about what each photo is. Take Care, Denny rowedl(at)alltel.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 27, 2000
Subject: Flying pictures
Here are some pictures Dave Rains took of my bird over water. http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/RioGrande1.jpg Click here http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/RioGrande2.jpg Click here http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/RioGrande3.jpg Click here Enjoy, Will Uribe El Paso, TX FireStar II N4GU http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 5" tube hole
Date: Oct 27, 2000
Bet he can't. 3/16" are a bitch. King Kong would have a problem. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: <TCowan1917(at)aol.com> Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 4:49 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 5" tube hole > > Well, my rule of thumb is if I put an extra hole, I put a rivet in it. Thats > your answer Tom Kuffel, put a three quarter inch ss rivet in it. a cherry > max if you can get one. Ted Cowan. I bet Arnold S. could do it for you. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: HELP! Gull Wing door builders! I need advice.
Date: Oct 28, 2000
I came up with the same gap. Heart-felt swearing and cursing didn't shrink it any, so there it sits. At this point, I'm real reluctant to cut, trim, re-weld, re-paint, and re-everything the bloody thing, so have been considering types of foam weatherstripping to seal it against air leaks. I dunno. Hate to leave it like that, hate to fool with the tarnation thing anymore, I must have 100 hrs in those doors. Besides..............it's only a LEETLE gap, like 1/4". On the attaching, had to do some soul searching, after listening to pros and cons. So...............top front, and top rear - of the hinge side - drilled 1/8" locating holes, and cleco-ed them. Spring clamped the rest of the line, then drilled 3/16" holes and cleco-ed those. Hopefully, that'll take care of expansion and contraction, and still keep it located precisely. Then bent it over the frames and clamped the bottom and sides, and 3/16" drilled those too. Keep in mind - the door frames are drilled 1/8", only the lexan is drilled 3/16. Then I used the wide headed aluminum fabric rivets to lock it down. Didn't want too much force on the lexan, wanted the wide heads to cover those 3/16 holes, and wanted it to be able to move a bit. Can always buy more fabric rivets if necessary. Hope this helps. Anyone else ?? Did I already say once, that for every Yank-ee, there's gotta be a Yank-er ?? Hoooo.............glad I'm way out this end of the country. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 7:45 PM Subject: Kolb-List: HELP! Gull Wing door builders! I need advice. > > Gull wing door builders, > Tonight Linda and I began installing the Gull wing door Lexan on the > passenger side of the Mark 3. > It appears that I built the rear door bows a little long and thus the lexan > will not pull up snug at the joint between the door and the fixed bow that > runs from the lower door frame up to the center post. > I am considering removing the rear bottom door gussets and cutting 3/4" fom > the rear door bow in order to pull the gap closed. > Where we are at right now is we have a rough piece of lexan riveted to the > center hinge along a factory cut edge. It is cut roughly to shape but way > oversized on all edges but the hinge. > The front appears to fit nicely when the lexan is pulled up tight against > the front door frame tube. > The bottom door frame tube seems like it will be about an inch or less from > the fuselage tube at the front corner when the door is closed. This seems > fine. > However the rear end of the bottom door frame tube appears as though it will > bottom on the door frame before the lexan pulls tight over the rear > enclosure. > Here is my question: How exactly did you Gull wingers install your lexan to > make sure you did not get any waves in it ? > Advise please, I am not drilling anothe hole until I know I won't ruin this > sheet. > Sorry about the rambling. > Denny > aka: worried Yankee > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 5" tube hole
Date: Oct 28, 2000
Is anybody else getting double and triple sends from me ?? What the phooey is going on with this thing ?? I've been getting 2 and 3 of every message from everybody, for a couple of weeks now. Is it just me ?? Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 11:56 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: 5" tube hole > > Bet he can't. 3/16" are a bitch. King Kong would have a problem. > Lar. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <TCowan1917(at)aol.com> > To: ; > Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 4:49 PM > Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 5" tube hole > > > > > > Well, my rule of thumb is if I put an extra hole, I put a rivet in it. > Thats > > your answer Tom Kuffel, put a three quarter inch ss rivet in it. a cherry > > max if you can get one. Ted Cowan. I bet Arnold S. could do it for you. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: HELP! Gull Wing door builders! I need advice.
Date: Oct 28, 2000
Hold 'er Newt - - - - - Denny, I just hit the sack, and got to thinking about rivetting those doors, and have to modify my exp. a bit. At 1st, I clamped the whole thing as best I could, drilled and cleco-ed the top rear of the hinge and lexan, then drilled and cleco-ed down the hinge line - one at a time - 1/8" all the way. THEN, when all looked good, drilled all but the 1st and last - one at a time - to 3/16 and cleco-ed them again. When the whole door looked like a porcupine, and all else looked good, then started putting in the fabric rivets. Didn't really notice the gap at the rear until I was cleco-ing the rear of the frame. Boy, did I turn the air blue for a bit. It's a natural mistake, I guess.................look at the lines when laying it out, figure where the ends of the lexan would be, and so on. Just didn't figure on quite enuf of an angle. More thought. Thunk out Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2000 12:38 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HELP! Gull Wing door builders! I need advice. > > I came up with the same gap. Heart-felt swearing and cursing didn't shrink > it any, so there it sits. At this point, I'm real reluctant to cut, trim, > re-weld, re-paint, and re-everything the bloody thing, so have been > considering types of foam weatherstripping to seal it against air leaks. I > dunno. Hate to leave it like that, hate to fool with the tarnation thing > anymore, I must have 100 hrs in those doors. Besides..............it's only > a LEETLE gap, like 1/4". On the attaching, had to do some soul searching, > after listening to pros and cons. So...............top front, and top > rear - of the hinge side - drilled 1/8" locating holes, and cleco-ed them. > Spring clamped the rest of the line, then drilled 3/16" holes and cleco-ed > those. Hopefully, that'll take care of expansion and contraction, and still > keep it located precisely. Then bent it over the frames and clamped the > bottom and sides, and 3/16" drilled those too. Keep in mind - the door > frames are drilled 1/8", only the lexan is drilled 3/16. Then I used the > wide headed aluminum fabric rivets to lock it down. Didn't want too much > force on the lexan, wanted the wide heads to cover those 3/16 holes, and > wanted it to be able to move a bit. Can always buy more fabric rivets if > necessary. Hope this helps. Anyone else ?? Did I already say once, that > for every Yank-ee, there's gotta be a Yank-er ?? Hoooo.............glad > I'm way out this end of the country. Lar. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> > To: "kolb-list" > Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 7:45 PM > Subject: Kolb-List: HELP! Gull Wing door builders! I need advice. > > > > > > Gull wing door builders, > > Tonight Linda and I began installing the Gull wing door Lexan on the > > passenger side of the Mark 3. > > It appears that I built the rear door bows a little long and thus the > lexan > > will not pull up snug at the joint between the door and the fixed bow that > > runs from the lower door frame up to the center post. > > I am considering removing the rear bottom door gussets and cutting 3/4" > fom > > the rear door bow in order to pull the gap closed. > > Where we are at right now is we have a rough piece of lexan riveted to > the > > center hinge along a factory cut edge. It is cut roughly to shape but way > > oversized on all edges but the hinge. > > The front appears to fit nicely when the lexan is pulled up tight against > > the front door frame tube. > > The bottom door frame tube seems like it will be about an inch or less > from > > the fuselage tube at the front corner when the door is closed. This see ms > > fine. > > However the rear end of the bottom door frame tube appears as though it > will > > bottom on the door frame before the lexan pulls tight over the rear > > enclosure. > > Here is my question: How exactly did you Gull wingers install your lexan > to > > make sure you did not get any waves in it ? > > Advise please, I am not drilling anothe hole until I know I won't ruin > this > > sheet. > > Sorry about the rambling. > > Denny > > aka: worried Yankee > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TCowan1917(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 2000
Subject: Re: Reo Grande
Great, Will Uribe. I guess when we fly the Gulf down at Panama City, Florida, we see about the same great stuff. Love the Beach Fly when we can get the people to do it. We have had up to 17 planes go 85 miles down the beach to get a Grouper sandwich and back. We fly for FOOD. Pure Heaven. Ted Cowan, Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: 22KuF Capacitor on Voltage Regulator
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" > >Thanks Bob. > >I did not know about the computer grade terminals. > >What would be the difference between the 22K and 47K uF capaictors as far as >how they perform and the function they serve in filtering out the noise. > >Thanks again, > >John Bickham >St. Francisville, LA >Mark III -912 >N308JB the 47k will be slightly better . . . I picked that value because it was as big or bigger than the recommended value and it happened to be in stock in quantity with my distributor. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: E-mail replies to Lar
Do you suppose it has anything to do with having your address plus the matronics Kolb list address both in the posting header? That way everybody that replies to whatever you send gets you a reply from the Kolb list plus a reply straight to you. That may not be it, but it's the first place I would check... Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >Is anybody else getting double and triple sends from me ?? What the phooey >is going on with this thing ?? >I've been getting 2 and 3 of every message from everybody, for a couple of >weeks now. Is it just me ?? Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron" <ron.carroll(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: E-mail replies to Lar
Date: Oct 28, 2000
I have the same problem, but the double messages are setup before I ever download them. If I look at the "Properties" for all incoming ' Re:' (reply) messages from the Kolb-List I see: "Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com, Richard Pike > > Do you suppose it has anything to do with having your address plus the > matronics Kolb list address both in the posting header? That way everybody > that replies to whatever you send gets you a reply from the Kolb list plus > a reply straight to you. That may not be it, but it's the first place I > would check... > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2000
From: Tom Kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Subject: Re: 5" tube hole
Ted & Sam, <> <> Assuming you aren't completely joking, must strongly disagree in this case. The hole is in the highest stress portion of the spar. It is never a good idea to have an unplanned hole in this area, filled or not. Rotating the spar 90 degrees will place the holes where the stress on the spar changes from compression to tension. In other words the stress at that point is almost zero. Then if you want to add the unneeded weight of a bolt be my guest. Have fun tightening the locknut. Of course, you could always cut a 2 inch hole in the face of the spar to give you access to the nut. 8 ) Tom Kuffel, building Original FireStar Whitefish, MT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2000
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: capasitor
I was wondering if anyone could give me a simpleton explanation on what the 22,000 uF / 25V capacitor does between the +B lead on the Ducati regulator and ground. the capacitor helps to eliminate the pulses of the dc output of the regulator to a more even or constant voltage without it the regulator will be in a constant state of trying to set the proper voltage as it sees a hi voltage the regulator would try to lower the output and at the same time the output would go down and the regulator would try to increase the voltage thus making the regulator in a constant fight with itself. if you connect the electrical system to a radio for example it will help eliminate the alternator whine on your signal. the voltage output would change from something that looks like to something like ------------------- as for the r +b l c inputs real quickly i could not find the definition for the r input the +b is the main output of the regulator the L is an output where you can put a charge light so you will know whether the system is charging. if you are putting in the eis it has a battery voltage display and low level alarm so the L connection can be left undone. and the c is the input of the regulator sense line. for example if the battery is a long distance from the regulator then there will be some voltage loss because of the distance and the resistance in the wire say for example 1 volt . in this case the c wire should be connected near the battery and would cause the regulator to increase the voltage output from 13.8 which is normal to 14.8 the extra 1 volt would be used up in the wire and the battery would only see the 13.8 and would maintain the battery voltage at the proper level if the battery is close to the regulator then the c can be connected to the b+ right at the regulator. hope the rambling have helped if more info needed pleas feel free to ask. boyd utah ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2000
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
"kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
Subject: sorry if i goofed
i just read robert explanation of the r b+ l and c terminals and after just answering with my explanation i found some differences. if i led anyone astray please forgive. in reading in the 912 install manual it states "ATTENTION: the difference between the battery voltage and rectifier regulator input terminal c should be less then 0.2 volt. in this area cables of sufficient cross section but as short as possible should be used." i took that to mean this was the sense line. the next paragraph says "ATTENTION in case of fuse inserted between rectifier-regulator terminal c and terminal +b , the fuse must not be able to be set inactive manually , in order to maintain the rectifier function." i also took this to mean that it was the sense line. because without a sense voltage the regulator would not know where to regulate to. if i am mistaken please accept my apologies. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 5" tube hole
Date: Oct 28, 2000
I do too! But not everyone. ----- Original Message ----- From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2000 12:42 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: 5" tube hole > > Is anybody else getting double and triple sends from me ?? What the phooey > is going on with this thing ?? > I've been getting 2 and 3 of every message from everybody, for a couple of > weeks now. Is it just me ?? Lar. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> > To: ; > Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 11:56 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: 5" tube hole > > > > > > Bet he can't. 3/16" are a bitch. King Kong would have a problem. > > Lar. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: <TCowan1917(at)aol.com> > > To: ; > > Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 4:49 PM > > Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 5" tube hole > > > > > > > > > > Well, my rule of thumb is if I put an extra hole, I put a rivet in it. > > Thats > > > your answer Tom Kuffel, put a three quarter inch ss rivet in it. a > cherry > > > max if you can get one. Ted Cowan. I bet Arnold S. could do it for > you. > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 10/27/00
In a message dated 10/28/00 3:01:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: << Here are some pictures Dave Rains took of my bird over water. http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/RioGrande1.jpg Click here >> Looks like heaven to me buddy!!!.........GeoR38 We have mosquito lake near hear that is the same except it has trees, a county fair,and a model airplane airport. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 28, 2000
Subject: Re: 5" tube hole
If your problem is that the holes were not directly opposite each other You might consider swapping ends with the tube keeping the hole on the bottom inline with the "H" section, bridging it with the lower leg of the steel tube. The hole in my firestar is 2" short of center of tube length.D. Swiderski; Would this still be to high of a stress area to try this approach?G.Aman FS2 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 10/27/00
From: "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com>
Any of you folks know of an UltraStar with a 1/2 VW? Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2000
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: questions
Remember me? The guy who cheated and was "donated" the Mk III? I'll be going to get it Thanksgiving week, and have some wonders. Any of you feel like getting a visit that week? I would like to find some Kolbers to hop in on from Indiana to Florida, to make the trip more do-able by a greenhorn like me (although I may have another with me). I think I'll take the bird straight to Kolb from SE Indiana, probably for when they're at work on November 20th, so they can give it a going over with me. From there I'd like to bump into some of you if possible. I'm sure we'll be needing gas, 93 or better, and probably a motel. If you are in an advantageous area for our stop, and would be able to offer some hospitality, please write back. Also say if you'd rather just offer in an emergency, so I can mark out some "bail-out" sites that are Kolb friendly instead of a strange FBO. Also, any of you x-country-ers, do you have suggestions on spare parts to take for my 582? Thanks ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Gull Wings
Date: Oct 28, 2000
I got back from L.A. earlier than expected today, so went out to the mighty project with last nights' messages in mind. I think maybe I was making a mountain out of a molehill in one area. The "gap" between the door and frame isn't that bad, and I think there should be a cushion where they meet anyway. Home Depot has some white closed cell foam that's meant to seal a camper shell to a pickup. It's 3/8" thick, so that should be plenty. Also, by extending the rear enclosure lexan forward, it'll meet the door lexan right behind the door frame. Possibly combining the 2 would give a better fit, with cushioning too. We'll see, but now I KNOW I'm not cutting those frames. Big Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: questions
The only recurring weak link seems to be exhaust springs, and exhaust related problems, that is the only thing I have had bug me in the last three years. Exhaust springs come in two lengths, and if you are buying this bird without knowing which of the two sizes it has, or it may be a mix and match, I would probably want two or three of both sizes. Along with that, the most common problem around here is exhaust expansion pipes splitting between the female socket and the muffler, sometimes along the seam, and sometimes out in the plain sheet metal part of the curve, several guys around here have been bitten by that particular bug. Might not hurt to carry two or three big hose clamps and a length of safety wire just in case you need to clamp it together for thirty miles or so. If it splits it will still run OK, but once it starts it seems the splits get bigger quickly and progressively, you really don't need to throw an 18" slab of sheet metal through the prop. On the other hand, some engine/muffler combinations run forever and never have any problems with the mufflers, go figure. At least if you take the springs and don't use them, you will use them eventually, it is not money wasted. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) >Also, any of you x-country-ers, do you have suggestions on spare parts >to take for my 582? > >Thanks > > >===== >John & Lynn Richmond :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 28, 2000
From: Tom Kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Subject: Re: Prejudice
Disgusted Lar: <> Next time, tell the truth. You are building an "off-road" vehicle. Saves a lot of hassles. Been-there-also Tom Whitefish, MT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: springs
The reason for the silicone is to dampen the springs vibrations. The vibrations tend to embrittle the springs, make them break sooner, and also make them cut through the welded loops quicker. Maintainance tip: when it comes time to repair the loops after the springs have cut deeply into them, braze up the inside curve instead of welding. The brass is softer and is less likely to damage the springs. Oddly enough, even though the brass is softer, it seems to last as good or better than the steel, however the main thing is to keep the springs from breaking. Will look at the braided leader, sounds like a good idea, but if successful, would put an end to sticking my finger on the safety wire and bleeding on the exhaust pipe, hate to ruin an old tradition ya know. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) >I have wondered for some time if anyone is using a braided steel fishing >leader with a snap on the end to safetie the exhaust springs. Anytime you >wanted you could unsnap to remove a spring. Might look better than the >silicone goop I have seen. Bill in Lousyana ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "PFI" <redhill(at)rose.net>
"Kolb-List Digest Server"
Subject: Re: questions
Date: Oct 29, 2000
I have a spare car parked at the airport in SW Georgia. If you make it this way (TVI) just let me know and I'll be glad to put you or ya'll up for the night. Give me some notice if you think you might come. Email me off list and I'll give you some phone numbers to reach me if needed. congratulations on your purchase. I've never flown in a Kolb and would love the opportunity to fly in one someday. I monitor the list here because I might be in the market for one within a year or so. From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> Subject: Kolb-List: questions Remember me? The guy who cheated and was "donated" the Mk III? I'll be going to get it Thanksgiving week, and have some wonders. Any of you feel like getting a visit that week? I would like to find some Kolbers to hop in on from Indiana to Florida, to make the trip more do-able by a greenhorn like me (although I may have another with me). I think I'll take the bird straight to Kolb from SE Indiana, probably for when they're at work on November 20th, so they can give it a going over with me. From there I'd like to bump into some of you if possible. I'm sure we'll be needing gas, 93 or better, and probably a motel. If you are in an advantageous area for our stop, and would be able to offer some hospitality, please write back. Also say if you'd rather just offer in an emergency, so I can mark out some "bail-out" sites that are Kolb friendly instead of a strange FBO. Also, any of you x-country-ers, do you have suggestions on spare parts to take for my 582? Thanks ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: 5" tube hole
Date: Oct 29, 2000
I agree that being on the neutral axis the stresses around the hole due to lift bending should be very low (you may also have some torsion and drag loads which may add some stress). I would radius the inside and outside edges of the holes to a SMOOTH surface. You might also consider inspecton covers fore and aft so you can keep an eye out for any developing cracks just in case. Not sure if pluging the hole would do much for the stresses. However, it shouldn't hurt. You may want to check with TNK on the $ of a new spar if that would help you sleep better. Rody ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 2000
Subject: (no subject)
i have a couple of items that may be of use to builders. will fit rotax 582 or 618. used a short time. 1. dual intake silencer with brackets. (new $168) 2. twin radiator (new $693) will sell for 1/2 price . contact me off line at airgriff(at)aol.com safe flying mk 111 albany n.y. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2000
From: Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: springs
Gents, >The reason for the silicone is to dampen the springs vibrations. >vibrations tend to embrittle the springs, make them break sooner, >however the main thing is to keep the springs from breaking. Something else that can cause you to have broken springs..... This following happened to me: In addition to the silicone, I like most others, ran safety wire inside of the springs which was then tied to the same fittings that the end of the springs are attached. When, due to an errant bolt going back through the prop, half of one of my prop blades separated. The ensuing vibration was so great that it caused the springs to stretch past the length of the safety wire. The net result was that the ends of all the springs were broken off and they too went through what was left of the prop. Skip Ellenton, FL 1984 UltraStar ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Oct 29, 2000
yak-list(at)matronics.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: List REPLY-TO Fuction Restored...
Hi Listers, I noticed a bit of discussion on the List regarding how the Reply-To field was working and there appeared to be some confusion. A couple of months ago I got this great idea to change the way the Reply-To email header was configured so that when a person did a Reply to a message they received from the List, it would by default go back to 1) The List, and 2) the Poster. This would mean in most cases the poster would get two copies of the message. The reason it seemed like a good idea was in the case where someone posted a message to another list that they weren't subscribed to, they would still get a reply back. (You only have to be subscribed to one List to be able to post to any of them.) Anyway, it seemed like a good idea at the time, but it seems to have caused a lot more confusion than it was worth. So, I've returned the configuration back to the way it used to be where a reply will just go back to the List. Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: springs
> >Will look at the braided leader, sounds like a good idea, but if >successful, would put an end to sticking my finger on the safety wire and >bleeding on the exhaust pipe, hate to ruin an old tradition ya know. I just use a nylon safety tie. Haven't seen one melt yet. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: paranoid???
>I hope I don't come across as a nut case here but I could use some advice. >I am having a grand time building the tail section of an RV9-A. (Wings are >on order) I am an expert woodworker - so I am not new to tools or >craftsmanship. However, as I build this plane I catch myself becoming >paranoid about the quality and safety of what I am doing. With each hole I >drill and rivit I place, following the plans to the letter, I get tense that >if I screw up, someone could die. Is this normal? I open my weekend seminars with the observation that amateur airplane builders are fabricating the finest airplanes to have ever flown. I support that statment as follows: The folk pounding rivets on an assembly line of an airplane factory would love to be doing anything DIFFERENT that what they are doing now. If something gets bent, a little whack here or some prybar there might make that rivet go into the hole with a few SMALL hammer whacks . . . if someting breaks, two supervisors and three inspectors will stand around discussing the MINIMUM effort needed to LEAGALY push that airplane out the door. I've visted some builder's shops where the airplane under construction had some pretty scary craftsmanship . . . further, the builder was making modifications to "correct some perceived screwups in the original design." I'm pleased to note that after 10 or 12 years, those airplanes are STILL under construction and not much further along than when I last saw them. You guys are doing a good job because you DO worry. If you don't know about some aspect of the task, you get on the list, call another bulder, call the factory, etc. etc. IF and WHEN your airplane breaks ground for the first time, the MAJOR risks to it's success will be from silly mistakes (cotter key left out, fuel line fitting not tightened, pilot skills poorly adapted to type, etc.) . . . your risk to suffering an consequence of poor craftsmanship is nil. The mechanics of putting an airplane together is very conducive to the "look and feel" method of inspection. If it's smooth, went together without hammering or sawing, then the completed task is 100% likely to meet the intent of the designer. It's right that you question what you don't understand. At some time in the past we were all right where you are. You're in right crowd for acquiring understanding and your going to do just fine. At some time in the future, I predict your biggest "worry" is picking the right color scheme for paint and upholstery . . . after all you don't want a machine of this caliber pulling up to the ramp looking like a teenager's street rod . . . Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Electronically illiterate
> >Many times, when you're at the hair pulling stage, it really helps to draw >your own wiring diagram of what you've done, then add where you want to go, >or do. Sometimes you can re-draw theirs, or a portion of, to clear up a >rough spot. I work with factory wiring diagrams every day, and some of them >are a nightmare, especially those that show wires from different terminals >in different areas joining a common "trunk" to get to another area. How are >you supposed to trace a wire if they're not separated ?? Nobody in the aircraft industry has made drawings like that in decades. The very best drawings are page-per-system of the style you find in Cessna's service manuals and as illustrated in our book and wiring diagrams. Each wire is shown in its entirity and never run into a "bundle" on the schematic. Stop at a local FBO and ask to look through the service manual for a C-172 and note how the diagrams are drawn and organized at the back of the book. Schematics are just roadmaps for electrons instead of cars. They're a little strange when you first pick them up but what did you think the first time you picked up an aeronautical chart? How about a high altitude IFR enroute chart? Approach plates? They're all just maps with some symbology and terminology to be learned. Know what a "vernatherm" is, unless you're putting a Lycoming on your airplane, you may not know . . . and don't need to know . . . the wiring diagrams are no more difficult than many other new methods of communications you've already mastered or will in the future. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Compasses
Date: Oct 29, 2000
A while back we had a thread regarding compasses, and electronic compasses. Since then, I've kinda looked over a few in sporting goods stores, etc., but with no real urgency, and found none that really impressed me, anyway. Besides, Vamoose is a long way from needing one of those yet. Today, I wandered into a Brookstone store, ( gifts, etc. ) and found an electronic compass that really impressed me. Fast update, nice readout, timer, all the goodies, so turned it over for the price tag...................$100.00. Well it's a dandy, but I don't need it $100.00 worth. Noted the mfg'er, and came home to the handy internet, found the mfg'er at www.precisionnav.com , and looked over their products; then went ahead and ordered the one I'd tried - the V1000 Co-Pilot..................for $60.00. Pretty good discount for 10 minutes work, eh, what ?? A small thing, that I liked............it feels solid, and substantial, tho' not heavy. The others I've looked at were.............flimsy ?? They also have a doo-dad that plugs into a Palm Pilot/GPS, to give a constant compass heading, for more thought on that thread. Don't know how bad we need that, but it shows they're trying. So, Vamoose may not be flying yet, but I'm sure gonna know which direction she's pointed in. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SSPRING83(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 26 Msgs - 10/28/00
Please stop my subscription. No longer interested!!!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2000
From: Annamarie <vincentam(at)chartermi.net>
Subject: Nice to hear from Kolb flyers
The place where I work, during lunch and break times everyone talks about baseballs, basketball, football, they also talk non-stop about 4 wheelers, snowmobiles, and boats...BUT nobody wants to talk about airplanes. In my home area there are very few ultralighters. So it is very good to hear from other people who enjoy flying ultralights especially Kolbs! Bill Vincent Quinnesec, Michigan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 26 Msgs - 10/28/00
Date: Oct 29, 2000
Us too.... Bye!!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: <SSPRING83(at)aol.com> Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2000 6:36 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 26 Msgs - 10/28/00 > > Please stop my subscription. No longer interested!!!!! > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Compasses
Date: Oct 29, 2000
Lar, Aircraft Spruce has a panel mount aircraft compass for $49.00. If you need the part # let me know. Its in their latest UL-Flyer add. Denny -----Original Message----- From: larrybiglar <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> Date: Sunday, October 29, 2000 5:14 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Compasses > >A while back we had a thread regarding compasses, and electronic compasses. >Since then, I've kinda looked over a few in sporting goods stores, etc., but >with no real urgency, and found none that really impressed me, anyway. >Besides, Vamoose is a long way from needing one of those yet. Today, I >wandered into a Brookstone store, ( gifts, etc. ) and found an electronic >compass that really impressed me. Fast update, nice readout, timer, all the >goodies, so turned it over for the price tag...................$100.00. >Well it's a dandy, but I don't need it $100.00 worth. Noted the mfg'er, and >came home to the handy internet, found the mfg'er at www.precisionnav.com , >and looked over their products; then went ahead and ordered the one I'd >tried - the V1000 Co-Pilot..................for $60.00. Pretty good >discount for 10 minutes work, eh, what ?? A small thing, that I >liked............it feels solid, and substantial, tho' not heavy. The >others I've looked at were.............flimsy ?? They also have a doo-dad >that plugs into a Palm Pilot/GPS, to give a constant compass heading, for >more thought on that thread. Don't know how bad we need that, but it shows >they're trying. So, Vamoose may not be flying yet, but I'm sure gonna know >which direction she's pointed in. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: Fly-in by the Florida Flying Gators
Date: Oct 29, 2000
FL Kolbers, Any one going to the FL Flying Gators flyin on Nov. 11th? Its about a mile from the intersection of US 27 & US 19. They have a website at http://flyinggators.com/ . I am planning on being there. Hope I have some Kolb company. Richard Swiderski, Ocala FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Kolb fly in 2001
Date: Oct 29, 2000
Kolbers, Anyone know the date for next years factory fly-in? Need to pick my vacation dates this week. Denny ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 2000
Subject: Re: Compasses
In a message dated 10/29/00 9:16:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, rowedl(at)alltel.net writes: << Lar, Aircraft Spruce has a panel mount aircraft compass for $49.00. If you need the part # let me know. Its in their latest UL-Flyer add. Denny >> They also carry the same compass Lar bought, it's $59. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Nice to hear from Kolb flyers
Date: Oct 29, 2000
Now, you just gotta pull a "Lar," and butt in with airplane talk. You'll be amazed how many people are fascinated about planes, but carry the fear of ignorance. One day I'll have to count 'em up in my log book, but I'll bet I've taken 30 or 40 people for their 1st ( light ) airplane rides in the last 4 yrs. I've had 3 get sick, so now I carry barf bags - 1 qt. zip locs, with 2 paper towels folded up inside. Even the sickies enjoyed themselves. Just make sure you give them a nice gentle experience. Don't let some hot shot talk you into doing wing-overs, when his wife is nervous in the back seat. Cuts the price of rentals down, keeps me from getting bored, I practise my skills, and they have a new experience and a lot of fun. Talk about win-win. Big Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Annamarie" <vincentam(at)chartermi.net> Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2000 4:10 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Nice to hear from Kolb flyers > > The place where I work, during lunch and break times everyone talks > about baseballs, basketball, football, they also talk non-stop about 4 > wheelers, snowmobiles, and boats...BUT nobody wants to talk about > airplanes. In my home area there are very few ultralighters. > > So it is very good to hear from other people who enjoy flying > ultralights especially Kolbs! > > Bill Vincent > Quinnesec, Michigan > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Compasses
Date: Oct 30, 2000
Thanks Denny, but I've already ordered it. I don't know which one ACS is offering, but this one today was the "crispest" I've seen. Course that's only about a 1/2 doz. but still............ Feels solid, and as you turn in a circle, the numbers, rose, and letters are almost instant. Good enuf for me. Quite compact size, too. Look it up on that website. As much stuff as I buy from ACS, and as much as I stick up for them, you'd think I'd be on their mailing list, but uh-uh. Go figure. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2000 6:12 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Compasses > > Lar, > Aircraft Spruce has a panel mount aircraft compass for $49.00. If you need > the part # let me know. Its in their latest UL-Flyer add. > Denny > -----Original Message----- > From: larrybiglar <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> > To: Kolb > Date: Sunday, October 29, 2000 5:14 PM > Subject: Kolb-List: Compasses > > > > > >A while back we had a thread regarding compasses, and electronic compasses. > >Since then, I've kinda looked over a few in sporting goods stores, etc., > but > >with no real urgency, and found none that really impressed me, anyway. > >Besides, Vamoose is a long way from needing one of those yet. Today, I > >wandered into a Brookstone store, ( gifts, etc. ) and found an electronic > >compass that really impressed me. Fast update, nice readout, timer, all > the > >goodies, so turned it over for the price tag...................$100.00. > >Well it's a dandy, but I don't need it $100.00 worth. Noted the mfg'er, > and > >came home to the handy internet, found the mfg'er at www.precisionnav.com > , > >and looked over their products; then went ahead and ordered the one I'd > >tried - the V1000 Co-Pilot..................for $60.00. Pretty good > >discount for 10 minutes work, eh, what ?? A small thing, that I > >liked............it feels solid, and substantial, tho' not heavy. The > >others I've looked at were.............flimsy ?? They also have a doo-dad > >that plugs into a Palm Pilot/GPS, to give a constant compass heading, for > >more thought on that thread. Don't know how bad we need that, but it shows > >they're trying. So, Vamoose may not be flying yet, but I'm sure gonna know > >which direction she's pointed in. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Compasses
Date: Oct 30, 2000
Well, ya see, Denny ?? And I paid $59.95. ( And probably more shipping ) I'll bet that now ACS regrets not putting their greatest fan on their mailing list. Humph ! ! ! Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: <HShack(at)aol.com> Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2000 8:55 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Compasses > > In a message dated 10/29/00 9:16:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, > rowedl(at)alltel.net writes: > > << Lar, > Aircraft Spruce has a panel mount aircraft compass for $49.00. If you need > the part # let me know. Its in their latest UL-Flyer add. > Denny >> > > They also carry the same compass Lar bought, it's $59. > > Howard Shackleford > FS I > SC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Compasses
In a message dated 10/30/00 6:43:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, rowedl(at)alltel.net writes: << I didn't mean to imply I got a special flyer from them, I meant that it was in their multi page add in ULTRALIGHT FLYING magazine, I didn't see it in their catalog when I looked, only a more expensive Airpath. Denny >> Check out Nov. 2000 issue ULTRALIGHT FLYING, page 42, bottom right, "Co-Pilot V1000 Digital Compass", $59. I just ordered one because of Lar's glowing report. It can't work any worse than the 2 1/4" panel mount I have. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Our website is down . . .
Our website was mis-behaving off and on several days last week and now has been down 100% since late Saturday night. I've been getting a ton of e-mail from folks who have been trying to access it unsuccessfully. I'll publish a notice when we're back up. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Compasses
Date: Oct 30, 2000
That sucker had better work, and GOOD, or I'll really have egg on my face. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: <HShack(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 6:07 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Compasses > > In a message dated 10/30/00 6:43:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, > rowedl(at)alltel.net writes: > > << I didn't mean to imply I got a special flyer from them, I meant that it was > in their multi page add in ULTRALIGHT FLYING magazine, I didn't see it in > their catalog when I looked, only a more expensive Airpath. > Denny >> > > Check out Nov. 2000 issue ULTRALIGHT FLYING, page 42, bottom right, "Co-Pilot > V1000 Digital Compass", $59. > > I just ordered one because of Lar's glowing report. It can't work any worse > than the 2 1/4" panel mount I have. > > Howard Shackleford > FS I > SC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Keeboman2(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 30, 2000
Subject: Please remove me from list
Please remove me from list, but i will be back. Good luck to all Keebo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: year-2000(at)mindspring.com
Date: Oct 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Please remove me from list
> >Please remove me from list, I'm Sorry Hal, but I cant't do that. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 30, 2000
Subject: More flying pictures we took yesterday
AOL users scroll to the bottom Yesterday we did some great flying and picture do speak a thousand works. Mount Cristo Rey http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/CristoRey1.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/CristoRey2.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/CristoRey3.jpg Some pictures of Southwestern wildlife. http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Orix.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/coyote.jpg African Orix were imported to New Mexico back in the 20's and 30's for Big Game hunters. http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Orix1.jpg When we landing on this dirt runway there was a clutter of debris. http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Debris1.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Debris2.jpg After closer inspection it was wreckage from a drone. This is what a patriot missile does to a drone. http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/impact.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Wreckage1.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Wreckage2.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Wreckage3.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Wreckage4.jpg Dave's personal heater setup. http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Heater1.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Heater2.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Heater3.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Heater4.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/CristoRey1.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/CristoRey2.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/CristoRey3.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Heater1.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Heater2.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Heater3.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Heater4.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/coyote.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Orix.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Orix1.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Debris1.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Debris2.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/impact.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Wreckage1.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Wreckage2.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Wreckage3.jpg http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Wreckage4.jpg Enjoy, Will ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jgw300" <jgw300(at)netzero.net>
Subject: Bought it..Mark III Xtra
Date: Oct 30, 2000
I dropped by Tim Gormon of Aloha, Oregon and he showed me his Xtra and he is obviously excited about flying it. So I came right home and ordered Kit #1 today. Tim has about the same space as I do for construction and got along fine...although he had to use his living room for storage of finished wings. Sort of sets a decor for the home. I have much enjoyed the conversations about parts, problems, and the answers that have been given. I have about six weeks before kit arrives so I am going to be finishing a few woodworking projects, and putting my shop in order. Tim is putting a 912 in his Xtra, and I hope to put a VW in mine, that is if the conversion produces the thrust that I am hoping for. Anyway thanks and I eventually anticipate seeing some of you in person. Julian Warren, Eugene, Oregon Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Re: questions
Date: Oct 30, 2000
John R. Do not know were your heading for in Florida -this late in the year.East-West Coast or Central Florida. Many on this list are members of the Southern Flyers---we are located basically from Dothan Alabama to Panama City Florida. Know the area well to include just about all of Florida-best flying routes-what to avoid etc. The first piece of advice is at this time of the year the winds Normally blow from w-Nw--1st freeze does not come until approx. 12 Nov. What you need to know is this--an old Indian adage-and all adages are old---when the wind blows from the East the fish bite the least.--Translated into Kolb flying English--this means Rain!!!!. The warm moist air flowing in from the Gulf of Mexico-is going to stop someplace-were not important-was is important is --the airflow coming back means rain to you.,possibly along your route. If your serious like I said many on this list-white Lighting,Firehawk, can provide you will a lot of valuable info that will save you time ,etc.Radio frequencies-UL landing locations and what services are available or not available. Let us know if you're serious--a lot of bad terrain to fly over before you get to Lower Alabama and a lot more you need to avoid enroute to ??? your Florida destination. Lindy Level Plains, Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2000
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: questions
Oops, Still didn't tell you where I am....NE florida, flagler airport area, between Daytona Beach and St. Augustine. :-) ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: questions
Date: Oct 30, 2000
John: Give me some specific dates you might be in the Tampa area... would be happy to help you in any way I can... Nice little airport south of tampa bout 20 miles... Manatee Airport... 3500 ft grass... gas available... will help with motel if you want... Beauford ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Richmond" <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2000 6:42 PM Subject: Kolb-List: questions > > Remember me? The guy who cheated and was "donated" the Mk III? > I'll be going to get it Thanksgiving week, and have some wonders. > > Any of you feel like getting a visit that week? I would like to find > some Kolbers to hop in on from Indiana to Florida, to make the trip > more do-able by a greenhorn like me (although I may have another with > me). I think I'll take the bird straight to Kolb from SE Indiana, > probably for when they're at work on November 20th, so they can give it > a going over with me. From there I'd like to bump into some of you if > possible. > > I'm sure we'll be needing gas, 93 or better, and probably a motel. If > you are in an advantageous area for our stop, and would be able to > offer some hospitality, please write back. Also say if you'd rather > just offer in an emergency, so I can mark out some "bail-out" sites > that are Kolb friendly instead of a strange FBO. > > Also, any of you x-country-ers, do you have suggestions on spare parts > to take for my 582? > > Thanks > > > ===== > John & Lynn Richmond :-) > > Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 10/29/00
<< FL Kolbers, Any one going to the FL Flying Gators flyin on Nov. 11th? Its about a mile from the intersection of US 27 & US 19. They have a website at http://flyinggators.com/ . I am planning on being there. Hope I have some Kolb company. Richard Swiderski, Ocala FL >> Richard, my wife keeps wanting me to go to the "Villages" just south of Ocala, and I usually take it in stride without much enthusiasm as the one time I was there I looked for UL people and only found a place 24 miles south of there.....are there other places around you...up north for instance?? GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 30, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 10/29/00
<< < Lar, Aircraft Spruce has a panel mount aircraft compass for $49.00. If you need the part # let me know. Its in their latest UL-Flyer add. Denny >> They also carry the same compass Lar bought, it's $59. Howard Shackleford FS I SC >> THIS can't possibly be!!!....Har har.... GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Compasses
Date: Oct 30, 2000
>That sucker had better work, and GOOD, or I'll really have egg on my face. >Lar. We bought one of these to put in our RV-6a but were told that some inspectors doing the airworthiness inspection would not accept it as being an adjustable compass so we never put it in. in playing with it the one thing I dint like about it was that it seamed to have very significant error at high pitch or roll angles. All compasses have these and I am betting in a real plane they wouldn't be near as bad or swing after the fact. the self calibrating features look like they might be a bit difficult to use for a tail dragger. you have to mount the device in place and then spin the plane around smoothly in the flight attitude. once that is done then the thing is corrected for the local electronic and metallic environ ment. anyway let us know what you think. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: More flying pictures we took yesterday
Date: Oct 30, 2000
those are some great photos, but how did you get the close up of the ORIX? you must have been at about 10 feet! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 30, 2000
From: "Robert F. Bean" <rfbean(at)rochester.infi.net>
Subject: compass
That v-1000 looks pretty good, but it appears to have the arrow moving---would be nice if it has option for stationary arrow and rotating rose, so heading is always straight ahead like gyro comp. (picky, picky,eh?) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 10/29/00
Date: Oct 30, 2000
Geo, I've been out of the UL scene for about 5+ years, but in the last few months I found only 2 active UL clubs in this region. The Flying Gators about 1mile due south of US27 and US 19, and the Dunellon gang, see below. Dunnellon Sport Flyers, (Ultralight & Paramotor Club) 10AM Meets at the office in the main hanger. Dunnellon Airport (352) 489-9969 days, (352)245-8263 eves. Greg McNamee There might be others, if there is , I'd like to know as well. Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 7:46 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 10/29/00 > > > << FL Kolbers, > > Any one going to the FL Flying Gators flyin on Nov. 11th? Its about a > mile from the intersection of US 27 & US 19. They have a website at > http://flyinggators.com/ . > I am planning on being there. Hope I have some Kolb company. > Richard Swiderski, Ocala FL > > >> > Richard, my wife keeps wanting me to go to the "Villages" just south of > Ocala, and I usually take it in stride without much enthusiasm as the one > time I was there I looked for UL people and only found a place 24 miles south > of there.....are there other places around you...up north for instance?? > GeoR38 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Herren" <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Compasses
Date: Oct 31, 2000
I just bought an electronic digital compass at Wally World. Under $50 and for me it was only about $5 because I needed a new watch anyway. Timex Expedition Digital compass. Only for use as a standby or backup compass. It can be swung for the location you expect to be in most. And re-done over and over. Point and push the button and there is a readout immediately. It does not update - push the button and read a new heading. Bill in Lousyana ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: flying for a reason!
Date: Oct 30, 2000
Most of the time I just fly for the fun of it, but recently my firestar II has earned its keep. I am also a falconer and am currently flying a Peregrine Falcon. A friend in the same area is flying a Prairie Falcon, and we both hunt ducks with them. My mishap began last tuesday when my falcon, a young inexperienced bird disappeared over a low hill in pursuit of another bird. Normally they come back, but not that day. The area where I lost her is a large and mostly inaccessable spot. The weather was really stormy and unsettled so the first time that I had that I felt that it was safe to fly was friday. Well I covered the area that I thought she might still be in pretty thouroughly. Every hawk in the area got a good low pass, some of them two or three. In 45 min I was able to scout the area enough that I was sure that she was no longer there. I was then going to extend the search pattern more easterly, having a hawks eye view and being able to see the world as she would see it, I could easily pick out the next area to search. Fortunately I did not have to, since a farmer in that area called a mutual friend and reported a hawk with bells on its legs sitting on his house. My wife was able to pick her up for me. Then saturday the other friend lost her bird in a hunting situation also. The weather was really too bad to fly with mountain tops obscured with clouds and nasty winds, so we looked in the car. I should mention that she had telementry transmitters on her bird that should have given a signal up to 10 miles away. We searched the area for sixty miles around with out getting a solitary signal. Since the fall and storms sometimes trigger the urge to migrate we were sure that the bird had either been killed by one of the Eagles in the area or had decided to go see southern Cal. The gal had given up on her bird and was no longer looking. When I was driving back to my work headquarters today I noticed that it was definately a flying type day. I called her and asked if she would like for me to fly and look for her bird one more time. She eagerly agreed, we met at my plane and and installed the antenna between the enclosure and the wings. The planes nose would point at the strongest signal. (It works by being directional.) I then warmed "Dart" up and took off climbing as high as I could so that I could make it across Klamath Lake,(about 3miles across at that point) and listen for the transmitters beep. I cranked up to 7500 feet (about 2500 agl) since these things work "line of sight". I had just gotten over Arnold Palmers Latest golf course and thought that I might have heard a signal. I had to throttle way back to be sure that I had in fact heard the transmitter and then started spiraling down, using the nose of the airplane as the direction finder on the telementry. I finally got down to about 200 feet and then the signal finally got strong enough that I could track it. I managed to narrow it down to either a clump of uncut weeds,(it was in a cut wheat field) or a small ditch. I cut back and forth above it at about 20 feet until I was sure of the spot and then started my return. This place is a new "Resort developement" and us common people generally don't hang out there much. ( I can't afford the greens fees) On the trip back I did some recon so that I could find my was back through the maze. What with this wonderful daylight saving time having got the axe, It was a race to get the Plane folded and stored and then drive back out there before it got too dark to do anything. Upon our arrival the signal was still in the same spot, I was sure that the bird was dead, but when we finally got across all the ditches and drove down the field She was sitting on the ground as if she was waiting on a bus. Both of us were very happy. I especially so for having decided that It might not be wise to land in the cut wheat field. ( It was way too soft) Apparently the telementry transmitters are defective or there is some problem with the recievers. She had been by the area earlier in the day and did not get a signal at all. Oh by the way the hawk was happy and full of duck. She had feathers on her feet and and duck on her breath. I have used the little plane for scouting for suitable places to hunt, and there is nothing better. Fun too, but you guys know that! Still high in Klamath Falls, Or Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Compasses
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Speaking from the depths of my ignorance, I think you're probably right about the roll angles. Something on their web-site mentioned something to that effect, but in their defense, I think ANY compass is going to have problems under those conditions. Standard wet compasses also have problems when climbing, descending, turning away from north, toward north, and so on - besides ( most of them ) being quite difficult to read. I really like the vertical card type, tho' they're in the $250.00 range. One of the rental planes I use has one, and it's a great product, and works very well, but.......................REAL spendy ! ! ! I was back in Palm Desert Town Center Mall today, for some stuff I forgot yesterday, and went back into Brookstone to double check myself. Paranoia time. I boo-boo'ed on the price - I said $100.00 yesterday, but it's only $99.00. Played with it a bit more, and it still seems solid and quite fast to me. Turning in a fast circle, it fell about 90 deg. behind, but if you ever turn a plane that fast, I DO NOT want to be aboard with you. Looks like a goody to me. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 4:57 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Compasses > > >That sucker had better work, and GOOD, or I'll really have egg on my face. > >Lar. > > > We bought one of these to put in our RV-6a but were told that some > inspectors doing the airworthiness inspection would not accept it as being > an adjustable compass so we never put it in. in playing with it the one > thing I dint like about it was that it seamed to have very significant error > at high pitch or roll angles. All compasses have these and I am betting in > a real plane they wouldn't be near as bad or swing after the fact. the self > calibrating features look like they might be a bit difficult to use for a > tail dragger. you have to mount the device in place and then spin the plane > around smoothly in the flight attitude. once that is done then the thing is > corrected for the local electronic and metallic environ ment. anyway let us > know what you think. > > Topher > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: compass
Date: Oct 31, 2000
That's a good point, and one I didn't think of. Your point is made when I think of the trip 2 weeks ago, when I took my buddy and his girlfriend down to Glamis. I have my GPS set so that track is always "Up." Kinda like looking thru a window, while someone stands on the other side, and turns the chart around, and back and forth, so that when you're going south, south is up, etc. For a while, going east in a corridor between Restricted areas, it was a little ( very ! ! ! ) confusing, till I turned the sectional 90 deg., and correlated all the lines on the GPS moving map with some of the lines on the sectional. THEN, all became clear, and we flew on with clear consciences. I'll have to see, when I get it, if it has both modes. If not, I'll just have to get used to it. We'll see. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert F. Bean" <rfbean(at)rochester.infi.net> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 5:39 PM Subject: Kolb-List: compass > > That v-1000 looks pretty good, but it appears to have the > arrow moving---would be nice if it has option for > stationary arrow and rotating rose, so heading is always > straight ahead like gyro comp. (picky, picky,eh?) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
Subject: Unsuccessful Unsubscribers?
Date: Oct 31, 2000
[] Flying in T shirts and shorts--here in Minnesota it is time to get the snowmobile suits out. Cabin heat? Real pilots don't need no stinkin' cabin heat! (That's a joke) Fall flying means being able to see the hunters and the deer on opposite sides of the hill--seeing turkeys and lots of landing areas in the harvested fields [] . Dale Seitzer St. Paul MN Original Firestar. [] flying in Florida - the haze is mostly gone but it's still warm enough to fly in shorts and a t-shirt. I floated around for an hour and a half and never left the field. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Steve & Kathy Allred <sallred(at)trellis.net>
Subject: change in email address
Date: Oct 31, 2000
As of today I am changing my email provider. My new email address is: Smallred815(at)msn.com I would like to still receive the kolb digest. Please change my email address in your files. Thanks, Steve Allred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Open Barrel Pin Connectors
My 4 month arm-wrestling match with the supplier has ended in victory . . . the tools we thought we were going to get back in August are here. Whether you use our tool or not, here's a comic book on installing the open barrel pins as used in Mate-n-Lock, Molex, and D-subminature connectors. http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: Use of Proximity type switches in aircraft?
>Good-day all- looking to the many fabulous engineering talents within this >forum- Does anyone have any experience with inductive proximity switches >used as limit switches within an aircraft? Wondering if anyone who has >tried prox switches in aircraft if they have ever had interference with the >performance of the switch while operating radio or other equipment? I have >experience using these switches in the development of tooling and machines >within a dirty and vibrating environment but not around other possible noise >creators like radios or the like. I think your risks are low. I've used these devices for decades in some hi-end aircraft and industrial applications with no difficulties . . . however, having said that, I've NOT tested any of these things in the RF lab . . . The major threat is from transmitters. Play with one on the bench while irradiating it with a hand-held and rubber-duck antenna from about a foot away. If keying the transmitter doesn't affect operation, it's probably going to be just fine in your airplane. This kind of exposure from a handheld is MUCH more than it would see in a typical installation. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Re: Compasses
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Approx. 3 months ago I posted info on the co-pilot V1000 compass--u guys are wasting your money--they still have approx. 6 at Wally World on US 231 in Dothan Alabama for $29.Been on sale for 5 or 6 months.Recommended not to buy-listed in detail -flight tests.--with GPS-etc.;to include compass in plane. In simple English so all would know what was wrong with them. In the interest of brevity---flight tested it--turned 360 degree circles ---at least 30 (followed their instruction) times---left and right turns I know we are not shooting missiles-and accuracy is not that important..but it could not be calibrated in the air or on the ground.After recording flight test data -decided it was time to call their tech support for a solution or fix and to double check --their instructions. Not going to list all the instructions--under calibration---this is important--turn your vehicle in two circles and then press the compass button.bla bla--well aware that PNI is in Santa Rosa Cal.(Precesion Navigation Inc) Note: Did this on the ground at least 6 times-knew it was off----took off and tried it in air---still off.Even had my buddy a Ph.D. electrical engineer check it out-- Called their Tech support---their answer to problem--I did not have it on a level table when I turned it.---Level Table?-the broad must be nuts.Their web site www.precisionnav.com. They developed this for the military? Probably for Sadam-read on.The lady said I got a steal getting it for 29 bucks.Just put it on a level table and start all over again. They must have thought I fell off a turnip wagon or something-I explained the flight testing.Again put it on a level table -turn it and it will work--Knew the 1st one did not--tried the 2nd one--same problem's---maybe that is why they were 50% off in Wal-Mart. Save $30 bucks call the Wal-Mart Store in Dothan---Al----on rack at Auto parts--been their for 6 months on sale. I have 2 I will sell for $29 each plus postage-what I paid for them. Their statement on back of the Co-pilot Electronic Box Accurate and easy to use! Most compasses can't handle the magnetic fields of a vehicle. The co-pilot solves this problem by using a patented,advanced magnetic sensor technology originally developed for the U.S. military and now used in GM,Ford and Chrysler Vehicles. Bar code 44869 10027 found in small print made in China---probably the junk Clinton sold them. Lindy Level Plains Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Rudder Hinges
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Started to install my rudder hinges today. The drawing calls for a 15 inch hinge at the bottom. This hinge is to run from 7/8 inches above the lower end of the rudder leading edge up 15 inches. This will cause the hinge to overlap the trailing edge tube of the vertical stabilizer that slips over the steel post on the tail piece by about 2 and 1/2 inches. The drawing shows it doing this also. I don't see how I can get a good fit on the hinge with it going over a step at the upper end. Am I missing something? Ron Payne Gilbertsville, Ky Building FireStar II ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Rudder Hinges
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Ron; There are 2 solutions to your problem. 1) simply trim the hinge so it does not overlay the two surfaces. This is what I did and it works just fine. 2) cut the hinge at the junction point so the both surface of the the tailpost make contact with and hinge face. John -----Original Message----- From: Ron or Mary Payne [mailto:ronormar(at)apex.net] Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 8:18 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Rudder Hinges Started to install my rudder hinges today. The drawing calls for a 15 inch hinge at the bottom. This hinge is to run from 7/8 inches above the lower end of the rudder leading edge up 15 inches. This will cause the hinge to overlap the trailing edge tube of the vertical stabilizer that slips over the steel post on the tail piece by about 2 and 1/2 inches. The drawing shows it doing this also. I don't see how I can get a good fit on the hinge with it going over a step at the upper end. Am I missing something? Ron Payne Gilbertsville, Ky Building FireStar II ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: ELT Installation
>I have a question concerning the ELT installation. The installation manual >for our Ameri-King Model AK-450 ELT says "The Antenna must be within 20 >degrees of vertical when the aircraft is in a normal flight attitude." It >goes on to say "The Antenna should be placed a minimum distance of 3 feet (1 >meter) from any vertically polarized communication Antennas (i.e. Antennas >radiating in the 118-137 MHz band)." >My understanding of the ELT use is that it would never be used in flight so >then why would their be a requirement for it to be installed "within 20 >degrees of vertical"? Further, it is not likely that the aircraft would be >in such an attitude when use of the ELT was necessary. On top of that, a recent article in AOPA Pilot suggests that ELTs figure in a TINY percentage of aircraft accidents wherein lives are saved . . . like under 10% if I recall. The numbers COULD be better but the hardware reliability is poor and the technology used to track downed aircraft is antiquated. >The other question is why should it be placed 3 feet from the VHF antenna? >Again, the VHF antenna would presumably not be used at the same time as the >ELT antenna. > >I would presume that the ELT installation requirements would be only for >certificated aircraft and not applicable to home-builts. However, some times >there may be some wisdom in certification requirements. Excellent critical review questions. In my not so humble opinion, install it any way that works but plan your actions such that you don't need to depend on the system to be useful. Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: andy.cumming(at)gov.ab.ca
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 10/30/00
Hi, I'm a new (new to me) owner of a Kolb Firestar Mk 1. It's a blast to fly and I'm having a lot of fun with it. I do, however, have one issue which I'd like to address over the winter, and that is it's fuel capacity. My plane presently has the standard 5 gal tank which I'd like to increase to at least 10 gal. Have any of you done this on your planes? If so I need to ask the basic questions of how and where you installed the tank(s), as well as to find out where you bought your tank(s) or if you fabricated them. I look forward to hearing from you. Regards Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 10/30/00
Date: Oct 31, 2000
I am not sure of Canada laws regarding ultralights--can you carry a ten gallon fuel tank? The fuel tank is located near the center of gravity --perhaps the best thing is to install a larger tray, more supports to the boom and frame system. I think the original setup is intended to support the weight of 5 gallons so be carefull to work to keep it in the right place. Many people simply carry 2 - 2 1/2 gallon containers and fill it up as needed. The previous owner built a bracket and stand behing the seat in front of the boom tube for extra gas. You should also consider gross weight when added to the pilot and plane weight. Hi, I'm a new (new to me) owner of a Kolb Firestar Mk 1. It's a blast to fly and I'm having a lot of fun with it. I do, however, have one issue which I'd like to address over the winter, and that is it's fuel capacity. My plane presently has the standard 5 gal tank which I'd like to increase to at least 10 gal. Have any of you done this on your planes? If so I need to ask the basic questions of how and where you installed the tank(s), as well as to find out where you bought your tank(s) or if you fabricated them. I look forward to hearing from you. Regards Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 10/30/00
Andy, Before we can answer your question, we need to know which model Firestar that you have. There are 3 different models. The first is now referred to as an original, the second was either a Firestar KX or a KXP and the third is a Firestar I or II. There was no Mk 1. John Jung andy.cumming(at)gov.ab.ca wrote: > > Hi, I'm a new (new to me) owner of a Kolb Firestar Mk 1. It's a blast to fly and > I'm having a lot of fun with it. I do, however, have one issue which I'd like to > address over the winter, and that is it's fuel capacity. My plane presently has > the standard 5 gal tank which I'd like to increase to at least 10 gal. Have any > of you done this on your planes? If so I need to ask the basic questions of how > and where you installed the tank(s), as well as to find out where you bought > your tank(s) or if you fabricated them. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Compasses
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Lindy, I'm sorry. I remember the thread, but not the details, models, etc. Thanks for the heads up. Charlie, the same. Howard, I'm sorry for leading you astray. In the store, it looks like a real winner. I just e-mailed Precision Navigation a cancel order, and checked my card history. They haven't processed the order yet, and I'll make sure they don't. As soon as I sign off, I'll follow up with a phone call. Thanks again. Howard, sorry Again. Humble Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: 2001 Kolb factory fly-in
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Ok Kolbers, Just got a note from the factory, the fly-in is going to be the 3rd Saturday in September. Mark your calenders today and we'll see you all there. Denny ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: To all new Kolb owners
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Been thinking about mentioning this since John Richmond let us know he found his Mark-3. If there is one book that everyone who flys a 2-cycle Rotax should have, it would be the California Power Systems catalog. It is the Bible of rotax troubleshooting and repair. Call 1-800-AIR- WOLF today and order one, its a deal at twice the price. I've used it as a guide since the days when Cuyuna dominated the industry and won't be without it. It's full of all sorts of tech tips that will keep your Rotax healthy and happy. And they all said.... AMEN. Denny ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dorismae Wikre" <dormel(at)means.net>
Subject: Another Kolb Flys
Date: Oct 31, 2000
1986 Firestar Kit with 377 engine. Test pilot Bruce Borg. Everything went swell. Mel Wikre Southeastern Minn. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: Re: Another Kolb Flys
Date: Oct 31, 2000
Congratulations, I thought the build time was somewhere around 400 hours??????? larry :-) ---------- > From: Dorismae Wikre <dormel(at)means.net> > To: kolb > Subject: Kolb-List: Another Kolb Flys > Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 7:34 PM > > > > 1986 Firestar Kit with 377 engine. > Test pilot Bruce Borg. > Everything went swell. > > Mel Wikre > Southeastern Minn. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 31, 2000
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 10/30/00
> why the original precepts of Part 103 >haven't worked according to the FAA. i.e., you are a contributing reason >for the demise of 103 and have only yourself to blame. I trust you are on >the "up & up". You probably missed the ca at the end of his email address. This means he is Canadian and has less to worry about. Yes our ultra lights are registered and numbered. But we are not restricted to 5 gal of fuel and our takeoff weight can get up to 1200 lbs. What he proposes is legal in Canada. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 10/30/00
Date: Oct 31, 2000
we have been using a tank (between the wings) approx. capacity 3 gallon--gives u approx. 1 hour additional flight time.Probably get 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 gallon in tank.(Temp and how plane it sitting-when u fill extra tank)always a factor. Do not know if I still have plans for it--we have made them out of sheetmetal and Fiberglas. Gravity flow--to main tank.We also have added a shutoff valve ---we call it a long range tank.Again approx. 1 hour additional time on a 447, approx. same on 503--insurance-especially on x-country's. Started using them in 1989---Someone in our club or in this area has the plans. I will see what I can put together for u. Lindy Level Plains,Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Compasses
Date: Oct 31, 2000
So much for that idea. They shipped it yesterday. Possibly it was the same girl Lindy talked to, but she told me to Puh-leeze try it for a week or 2 in my car, or rental plane, etc. 30 day money back guarantee. Don't do this, try that................! ! ! Well, what the hell ?? Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 3:07 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Compasses > > Lindy, I'm sorry. I remember the thread, but not the details, models, etc. > Thanks for the heads up. Charlie, the same. Howard, I'm sorry for leading > you astray. In the store, it looks like a real winner. I just e-mailed > Precision Navigation a cancel order, and checked my card history. They > haven't processed the order yet, and I'll make sure they don't. As soon as > I sign off, I'll follow up with a phone call. Thanks again. Howard, sorry > Again. Humble Lar. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
Subject: Another Kolb Flys
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Mel! Congratulations! I have seen Mel's work and it is great--he made a very nice seat modification that looks great. I still want to fly down to see ya. The Firestar will be alot different than your old Teradactyl--but you will love it! Dale Seitzer -----Original Message----- From: Dorismae Wikre Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 9:34 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Another Kolb Flys 1986 Firestar Kit with 377 engine. Test pilot Bruce Borg. Everything went swell. Mel Wikre Southeastern Minn. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Zanzottera engines
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Has anyone heard any first hand news about the new Italian built Zanzottera engines? The new Experimenter magazine shows a couple photos of a two cylinder one on a Thunder Gull, it looks nice. I checked out their web page this morning and the 62hp two cylinder carburated version is around $4100.00 all up. This is competitive with the 690L-70 pricing and you don't need a radiator. I also like the idea of running the cooling fan directly on the crankshaft, no belt to adjust or worry about breaking. They don't have the pricing yet on the triple, and this engine also looks promising. Big Power! Lastly, they have a very slick looking gearbox with the built in clutch that is adaptable to Rotaxs, this could be a good alternative to the expensive but nice C-box for folks looking to upgrade from their B-box. Just thinking out loud, Have a good day! Denny PS: Their web page is www.mzengines.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Fw: MZ202 and 301 engines
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Kolbers, Just got this reply from the Zonzottera importer. Sounds like they are not ready for prime time. Later Denny -----Original Message----- From: ASAP <asap(at)junction.net> Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 10:21 AM Subject: Re: MZ202 and 301 engines >Denny, > >The MZ301 is not yet available. > >We also do not have a side mount exhaust available for these engines all we >have for the MZ202 is what can be seen on our web site at www.mzengines.com > >Sorry this is all I can help you for now > >Regards >Brent >----- Original Message ----- >From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net> >To: >Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 5:53 AM >Subject: MZ202 and 301 engines > > >> Dear Sirs, >> I am interested in your 202 and 303 engines for on my nearly complete Kolb >> Mark-3. >> Do you have a side mount exhaust for use on the Kolb aircraft, and also do >> you have fuel consumption figures for these two engines? >> Thanks, >> Denny Rowe >> rowedl(at)alltel.net >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Zanzottera engines
Date: Nov 01, 2000
OK, now I'm talking to myself. Hear goes, I decided to give Mark Beierle at Earthstar a call to pick his brain about the Zanzottera engines. He gave the 60 hp 202R engine a big thumbs up, said it burned less fuel than a 503, ran smooth and really had a wide power band. He had a 1000mile cross country flight and 30+ hrs of local flying on a Gull 2000 and said it would run the plane up to the 120mph vne with a fixed pitch prop. Said it was the lightest 60hp engine he has tested and he would highly recomend it. A very simple installation due to the air cooling and it has reed valves instead of rotary valve, being a motocrosser, I like reed induction. Also said that the factory is currently moving from Italy to Canada. Well sounds like if they get a Kolb ready exhaust figured out, we have a new engine choice available. Any thoughts? Denny -----Original Message----- From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net> Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 10:52 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Zanzottera engines > >Has anyone heard any first hand news about the new Italian built Zanzottera >engines? >The new Experimenter magazine shows a couple photos of a two cylinder one on >a Thunder Gull, it looks nice. >I checked out their web page this morning and the 62hp two cylinder >carburated version is around $4100.00 all up. This is competitive with the >690L-70 pricing and you don't need a radiator. I also like the idea of >running the cooling fan directly on the crankshaft, no belt to adjust or >worry about breaking. > They don't have the pricing yet on the triple, and this engine also looks >promising. Big Power! >Lastly, they have a very slick looking gearbox with the built in clutch that >is adaptable to Rotaxs, this could be a good alternative to the expensive >but nice C-box for folks looking to upgrade from their B-box. >Just thinking out loud, >Have a good day! >Denny >PS: Their web page is www.mzengines.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
Subject: Zanzottera engines
Date: Nov 01, 2000
I talked to the sales rep at OshKosh and he ezplained the engine is desighned for airplanes--the 40 horse engine weighs less than the Rotax 277. I read somewhere of a connection between MZ and Hirth engines but that may be a rumor/myth. I am impressed with the light weight and air cooling. I am not sure of parts availability, service centers, warrantees and resale value. How come when the dollar does so well compaired to the Euro the prices never go down on Rotax. No one I know of has an MZ engine -- all Rotax. Dale Seitzer Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Zanzottera engines Hear goes, I decided to give Mark Beierle at Earthstar a call to pick his brain about the Zanzottera engines. He gave the 60 hp 202R engine a big thumbs up, said it burned less fuel than a 503, ran smooth and really had a wide power band. He had a 1000mile cross country flight and 30+ hrs of local flying on a Gull 2000 and said it would run the plane up to the 120mph vne with a fixed pitch prop. Said it was the lightest 60hp engine he has tested and he would highly recomend it. A very simple installation due to the air cooling and it has reed valves instead of rotary valve, being a motocrosser, I like reed induction. Also said that the factory is currently moving from Italy to Canada. Well sounds like if they get a Kolb ready exhaust figured out, we have a new engine choice available. Any thoughts? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: "Chips Anderson" <canderson(at)go2vanguard.com>
Subject: fuel question
I have been monitoring the Kolb list for several months now gathering invaluable information. However, there is one item that I have not seen discussed. What kind of fuel do most of you use (i.e. avgas or mogas)? If its mogas, do you worry about it having alcohol added? We here in Denver CO now have the pleasure of having our gas oxagenated year round and with the MTBE scare, all of the gas stations seem to be using ethanol. From all that I've read, mogas is ok as long as it doesn't have alcohol in it. Can you please tell me (and the rest of the list) what your experiences have been. Chips Anderson Denver, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Zanzottera engines
Denny and Group, I toured the Slipstream factory this Summer and they have been testing the Zanzottera engines. Slipstream is located in Watoma, WI, and I was at a flying near there. (No I am not thinking of changing from Kolb) The picture that I got was that the Zanzottera engines are very promising, but still some things to be worked out. The gearbox is one thing that was being worked on. Fuel injections is available on some models, too, although it's not cheap. Slipstream is selling the engines. John Jung ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: A Season of Giving - Please Support Your List!
Dear Listers, As my good friend Al Mojzisik from the RV-List forum has pointed out in his humorous style this morning, its time for the Annual List Fund Raiser! For those that are new to the Lists since last year, I'd like to just mention what its all about. I have always run the List services here completely free of charge to the members. This includes the Email Lists, Archive Search Engine, as well as some of the other goodies found on the servers. My policy has always been that I will never charge a 'fee' to sign up for any of the email Lists and I have also turned down a number potentially lucrative of 'commercial' offers to provide advertising space either on the various web pages or on in each of the outgoing emails. I have always graciously declined these offers, however, because I have felt that the friendly, homey feeling of the commercial-free site was very appealing. I have also felt that offering the services here for free is the best way to stimulate the greatest membership, and in my opinion, this is the most important element in the success of a forum such as this. So, once again, I will restate my commitment to always keeping all of the services here on the Matronics servers free to everyone. That being said, I must also say that running this system is far from free for me, however. I am continually trying to provide the best, most reliable service possible and have continued to upgrade the systems as necessary to maintain or improve the level of service I provide. Quite aside from the "real costs" involved in the maintenance of a service like this, however, is the time commitment necessary to keep everything running and time required to produce new and improved software enhancements to make the whole experience more enjoyable for everyone. On the average I spend 10 to 20 hours a week handling subscription requests and related problems, maintaining the existing computer code base, and developing new utilities for the List community. The whole List site (web server and email server) continue to run across the 768kb/sec DSL-based Internet connection. Connections to the servers have generally been pretty reliable and performance has been good. Up time for the connection has approached the 99% mark. If you regularly enjoy the services provided here, I would ask that you make a Contribution in any amount in which you are comfortable. Your Contribution will be used to directly support the continued operation and improvement of all these services, and as always, I will turn your Contributions back into more upgrades and improvements. It is truly an investment in the future of these Lists. To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 As I have done in the past, I will post a "Contributors List" at the end of the Fund Raiser, personally acknowledging each and everyone that has generously made a Contribution this year! Finally, I just want to say *Thank You* to everyone that has supported me and my operation here this year. Your support and encouragement means a great deal to me and I feel like I have friends literally from all around the world! Sincerely, Matt Dralle Your Email List Administrator dralle(at)matronics.com ============================================================================ >-------------- >--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik > >Well folks, > >I hate to spring this on you without much advance warning and all but it's >November already. For you newer List members you may not know but this is >the time of year we all give "thanks" for all that Matte Dralle has done >for us with this RV-List. the customary way of saying "thanks" is with a >voluntary donation of cash through Matte's own simple and safe contribution >hot-line at: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > >It's really rather painless and actually gives you a good warm and fuzzy >feeling inside after you have made your contribution. Now last year I >relied heavily on guilt to get some of you harder nuts to crack to ante >up. This year I hope that in keeping with the election year theme I can >learn something from the experts........"It's for the children." > >Yes your contribution will help children everywhere learn about the high >moral values that are inherent in the RV family of aircraft. As our young >charges surf the Internet for information on various things that we don't >want them to know about, they may stumble across the Matronics Website and >become aware of the RV-List and other interesting forums that Matte >provides. This in turn may change there lives as they see what can be >achieved through hard work and perseverance. They will learn how the polite >exchange of idea's between consenting adults can result in the birth of one >(or more) of the finest aircraft in existence today. They can become aware >of a whole world out there that had previously been unknown or out of reach >to them. So in the interest of our children, send your contribution to >Matte to help the RV-List live long and prosper.............Darn, got my >tongue caught in my cheek there for a moment. > >Once again, you can make your contribution through credit card at: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > c/o Matt Dralle > Matronics > P.O. Box 347 > Livermore, CA. 94551 > >I would like to pledge at this time that I will not place any negative >advertising in the hope of raising funds for RV-List support. (Unless you >folks hold out too long, then look out!) Let's have a real clean campaign >this November and get out the contributions! AL >-------------- -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gregory W. Moravan" <moravan(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Emergency Locator Transmitter (ELT) For Sale
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Dear Kolbers, I have an Emergency Beacon Corporation ELT (Emergency Locator Transmitter) model # EBC-502 for sale. See page 407 Spruce 2000 catalogue for description. My project didn't work out and so I don't need the ELT any more. Comes with a mounting bracket I made for a Mark III to mount the ELT to the left side of the fuselage cage just behind the pilot's seat. New: $333.000 Sale price: $200.00 or best offer. Did you know that FAA regulations require you to have an ELT if you are carrying a passenger? Be legal -- buy my ELT! The EBC-502 is unique because it does NOT require an external antenna mounted on the outside of your aircraft. The ELT's built-in short whip antenna is all it requires, and fits easily inside a Mark III fuselage cage. Give me an e-mail if you are interested or if you have any questions. Greg Moravan moravan(at)seanet.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net>
Subject: fuel question
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Chip, I have a Quicksilver MXLII and a Kolb MarkIII, both with 582s on them. I have been using 100LL for five years because I don't want anything with alcohol in it for all the various reasons. I have had no problems. Bob CFII ASMEL -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chips Anderson Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 10:07 AM Subject: Kolb-List: fuel question I have been monitoring the Kolb list for several months now gathering invaluable information. However, there is one item that I have not seen discussed. What kind of fuel do most of you use (i.e. avgas or mogas)? If its mogas, do you worry about it having alcohol added? We here in Denver CO now have the pleasure of having our gas oxagenated year round and with the MTBE scare, all of the gas stations seem to be using ethanol. From all that I've read, mogas is ok as long as it doesn't have alcohol in it. Can you please tell me (and the rest of the list) what your experiences have been. Chips Anderson Denver, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R. Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: Emergency Locator Transmitter (ELT) For Sale
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Greg , The faa also requires the ELT have remote control & test button . Does the EBC-502 have these. RH ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gregory W. Moravan" <moravan(at)seanet.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 12:54 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Emergency Locator Transmitter (ELT) For Sale > > Dear Kolbers, > > I have an Emergency Beacon Corporation ELT (Emergency Locator Transmitter) > model # EBC-502 for sale. > See page 407 Spruce 2000 catalogue for description. > > My project didn't work out and so I don't need the ELT any more. > > Comes with a mounting bracket I made for a Mark III to mount the ELT to the > left side of the fuselage cage just behind the pilot's seat. > > New: $333.000 > > Sale price: $200.00 or best offer. > > Did you know that FAA regulations require you to have an ELT if you are > carrying a passenger? Be legal -- buy my ELT! > > The EBC-502 is unique because it does NOT require an external antenna > mounted on the outside of your aircraft. > > The ELT's built-in short whip antenna is all it requires, and fits easily > inside a Mark III fuselage cage. > > Give me an e-mail if you are interested or if you have any questions. > > Greg Moravan > moravan(at)seanet.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
"Steve Martin" , "Skip Staub" , "Raymond R. Kielhofer" , "Possum Sullivan" , "Pat. Ryan" , "Mike Long" , "Luther L Potter" , "Lindy" , "Ken Williams" , , "John Hauck" , "Jeff Barnhill" , "Duane Mitchell"
Subject: Fw: Makes Flying Sound Like Fun.
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Can use some of this... Beauford ----- Original Message ----- From: <WHan66(at)aol.com> ; Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 11:34 AM Subject: Makes Flying Sound Like Fun. > Here's some 'flying funnies' for you. > 1. There's a story about the military pilot calling for a priority > landing because his single-engine jet fighter was running "a bit > peaked". ATC told the fighter jock that he was number two behind a B-52 > that had one engine shut down. "Ah", the pilot remarked, " the dreaded > seven-engine approach". > 2. A student became lost during a solo cross-country flight. While > attempting to locate the aircraft on radar, ATC asked, > "What was your last known position?" Student: "When I was number one > for takeoff". > 3. One day, the pilot of a Cherokee 180 was told by the tower to hold > short of the runway while a DC-8 landed. The > DC-8 landed, rolled out, turned around, and taxied back past the > Cherokee. Some quick-witted comedian in the DC-8 crew got on the radio > and said, "What a cute little plane. Did you make it yourself?" Our > hero the Cherokee pilot, not about to let the insult go by, came back > with a real zinger: "I made it out of DC-8 parts. Another landing like > that and I'll have enough parts for another one." > 4. During the heat of the space race in the 1960s, the U.S. National > Aeronautics and Space Administration decided it > needed a ball point pen to write with in the zero gravity confines of > its space capsules. After considerable research and > development, the Astronaut Pen was developed at a cost of about US $1 > million. The pen worked and also enjoyed some > modest success as a novelty item back here on earth. The Soviet Union, > faced with the same problem, used a pencil. > 5. Tower: "Delta 351, you have traffic at 10 o'clock, 6 miles!" Delta > 351: "Give us another hint! We have digital watches!" > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 10/30/00
<< From: "Larry & Karen Cottrel" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> Subject: Kolb-List: flying for a reason! Most of the time I just fly for the fun of it, but recently my firestar II has earned its keep. I am also a falconer and am currently flying a Peregrine Falcon. A friend in the same area is flying a Prairie Falcon, and we both hunt ducks with them. My mishap began last tuesday when my falcon, a young inexperienced bird disappeared over a low hill in pursuit of another bird. Normally they come back, but not that day. The area where I lost her is a large and mostly inaccessable spot. The weather was really stormy and unsettled so the first time that I had that I felt that it was safe to fly was friday. Well I covered the area that I thought she might still be in pretty thouroughly. Every hawk in the area got a good low pass, some of them two or three. In 45 min I was able to scout the area enough that I was sure that she was no longer there. I was then going to extend the search pattern more easterly, having a hawks eye view and being able to see the world as she would see it, I could easily pick out the next area to search. Fortunately I did not have to, since a farmer in that area called a mutual friend and reported a hawk with bells on its legs sitting on his house. My wife was able to pick her up for me. Then saturday the other friend lost her bird in a hunting situation also. The weather was really too bad to fly with mountain tops obscured with clouds and nasty winds, so we looked in the car. I should mention that she had telementry transmitters on her bird that should have given a signal up to 10 miles away. We searched the area for sixty miles around with out getting a solitary signal. Since the fall and storms sometimes trigger the urge to migrate we were sure that the bird had either been killed by one of the Eagles in the area or had decided to go see southern Cal. The gal had given up on her bird and was no longer looking. When I was driving back to my work headquarters today I noticed that it was definately a flying type day. I called her and asked if she would like for me to fly and look for her bird one more time. She eagerly agreed, we met at my plane and and installed the antenna between the enclosure and the wings. The planes nose would point at the strongest signal. (It works by being directional.) I then warmed "Dart" up and took off climbing as high as I could so that I could make it across Klamath Lake,(about 3miles across at that point) and listen for the transmitters beep. I cranked up to 7500 feet (about 2500 agl) since these things work "line of sight". I had just gotten over Arnold Palmers Latest golf course and thought that I might have heard a signal. I had to throttle way back to be sure that I had in fact heard the transmitter and then started spiraling down, using the nose of the airplane as the direction finder on the telementry. I finally got down to about 200 feet and then the signal finally got strong enough that I could track it. I managed to narrow it down to either a clump of uncut weeds,(it was in a cut wheat field) or a small ditch. I cut back and forth above it at about 20 feet until I was sure of the spot and then started my return. This place is a new "Resort developement" and us common people generally don't hang out there much. ( I can't afford the greens fees) On the trip back I did some recon so that I could find my was back through the maze. What with this wonderful daylight saving time having got the axe, It was a race to get the Plane folded and stored and then drive back out there before it got too dark to do anything. Upon our arrival the signal was still in the same spot, I was sure that the bird was dead, but when we finally got across all the ditches and drove down the field She was sitting on the ground as if she was waiting on a bus. Both of us were very happy. I especially so for having decided that It might not be wise to land in the cut wheat field. ( It was way too soft) Apparently the telementry transmitters are defective or there is some problem with the recievers. She had been by the area earlier in the day and did not get a signal at all. Oh by the way the hawk was happy and full of duck. She had feathers on her feet and and duck on her breath. I have used the little plane for scouting for suitable places to hunt, and there is nothing better. Fun too, but you guys know that! Still high in Klamath Falls, Or Larry >> Wow...what a neat story....almost makes me want to tell mine about the time I chased 2 ducks....in my pterodactyl....15 years ago GeoR38 Akron O ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Compasses
In a message dated 11/1/00 2:51:07 AM Eastern Standard Time, larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com writes: << So much for that idea. They shipped it yesterday. Possibly it was the same girl Lindy talked to, but she told me to Puh-leeze try it for a week or 2 in my car, or rental plane, etc. 30 day money back guarantee. Don't do this, try that................! ! ! Well, what the hell ?? Lar. >> Well, I recieved mine today; I sure hope it works as good on the Firestar as it does in my Lazy Boy. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: Zanzottera engines
In a message dated 11/1/00 12:20:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, rowedl(at)alltel.net writes: << Well sounds like if they get a Kolb ready exhaust figured out, we have a new engine choice available. Any thoughts? Denny >> I thought about putting one on my Firestar, but when I emailed them for info they told me about the muffler problem & weren't sure when it would be solved. Very light engine with electric start. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Subject: Re: fuel question
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Chips, I've used autogas with ethanol for years in my Rotax with no problems. I only switched to ethanol-free in the past couple of years because I thought it might be better for the engine. I'm not sure if this is a good decision as the ethanol gas was ok and will soak up any moisture in the tank while the ethanol-free will not. The ethanol-free gas is also a dime more per gallon. Ralph Burlingame Original FireStar > I have been monitoring the Kolb list for several months now > gathering invaluable information. > > However, there is one item that I have not seen discussed. What > kind of fuel do most of you use (i.e. avgas or mogas)? If its > mogas, do you worry about it having alcohol added? > > We here in Denver CO now have the pleasure of having our gas > oxagenated year round and with the MTBE scare, all of the gas > stations seem to be using ethanol. > > From all that I've read, mogas is ok as long as it doesn't have > alcohol in it. Can you please tell me (and the rest of the list) > what your experiences have been. > > Chips Anderson > Denver, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Re: fuel question
Date: Nov 01, 2000
Have used the following Fuel in Mark2, Mark 3, firestar--following Rotax engines--Rotax 447,503,582 Preferred---Shell--93 Octane Amoco 92 Octane Chevron 92 Octane Have used 100LL--Low Lead--from airports when no gas available. No problems -to include friends that also have used 100 LL. The government has so many requirement/regulations/policies/procedures due to smog-etc--octane many vary slightly by marketing area's---approx. ????different market areas in states---Have personally observed all major oil companies fueling their tankers from FINA refinery--what they added- who knows? Highly recommend u talk to UL pilots in your area-they know---biggest problem we all have -to be aware of and check for constantly is water in fuel-were ever we get it from. Lindy Level Plains, Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: 10% for Matronics
Builder's Bookstore and eCharts is happy to do again, what we did successfully last year. That is to donate a portion of our sales for the month of November to the maintenance of the Kolb list. 10% FOR MATRONICS Starting now, 10% of any purchase from either Builder's Bookstore or eCharts will be put aside as a donation to the Kolb list, as our thanks for this excellent resource for Kolb builders and pilots. We will run this special throughout November with a check for the total amount presented to Matt on December 1st 2000. To designate your share, please write the words "10% for Matronics" in the Special Instructions box on the on-line order form. Or, if you order something by phone, just tell me when you call. Thank you Matt for this excellent service. Andy Gold Builder's Bookstore http://buildersbooks.com eCharts http://eCharts.cc ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Jabiru
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Kolb has updated its web site. They are now listing the Jabiru as an engine option on the Mark III and Mark IIIXtra. The performance figures are the same as the Rotax 912. I wonder if they have flown this configuration, or are just extrapolating from the Kolbra installation? Does anyone know anything about the Prince P-tip prop. Jabiru recommends this prop for many applications according to the factory rep at the Kolb fly-in. Clay Stuart Danville KY Mark IIIXtra kit on order ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Extraction tool for Amp-Leaf Connectors
A list server participant just sent me a picture of the connector used on the back of his MicroMonitor to ask if we stock an extraction tool for it. Actually, I have a tool . . . which I fabricated about 20 years ago. You can see a picture of the tool along with instructions on its fabrication and use at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/amplefxt.jpg Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________ User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Lubricant (hinges and controls)
From: Pam & Scott Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org>
Hi I think, I found good lube for your hinges, controls and exhaust joints. Its made by LPS called Force 842 dry moly lubricant. Check it out , its black in color so watch out for over spray. Scott Trask Iron Mt. MI ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 10/30/00
Hey Denny, Just ordered a custom trailer for me to haul the Mk3 back here. What is the diameter of the tailboom? (or circumference is fine, just roll a tape around it) I want to add a support to the frame to rest it in. Thanks ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer. http://experts.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Re: Lubricant (hinges and controls)
Zep mfg.makes a clear waterproof teflon laced lube called 2000. It comes out of an aerosol can,with a tiny red extension tube, liquid and cures to a light grease with the consistency of warm vasoline in about 30 seconds. It is heat stable from -105 to+600degrees.G.Aman FS2 70Hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Re:Mel Wikres New 1986 Fire Star
From: Bruce L Borg <blborg(at)juno.com>
I can't help but come out of lurking to say how much I enjoyed flight testing Mel Wikres FireStar. It literally flew hands off on the first flight. Nice job Mel! This was my first chance to fly a FireStar. Previous Kolb time is in UltraStar and Twin Star. Very nice flying airplane! I was very impressed with the performance with the 377. Mel is a Dactyl pilot and is now busy re-training his feet for "push right go right". Don't let him fool you. He has not been building since 1986, he purchased the unbuilt kit only a couple years ago (or less). Bruce Borg 1983 UltraStar ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2000
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
"kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
Subject: gas
However, there is one item that I have not seen discussed. What kind of fuel do most of you use (i.e. avgas or mogas)? If its mogas, do you worry about it having alcohol added? i went down to the local amaco station and asked about alcohol and mtbe. the manager had no clue and i asked the manager if there was a way to get the info from the owner. we called him and his first response was "no way no shape no how get out of here" he was not going to give me the answers as to the additives. when i explained that i was going to use it in an aircraft and was trying to make sure that it did not have anything in it that the rotax was allergic to and that rotax recommended mo gas instead of av gas. well he came around, i guess he figured that i was not going into competition with him, only that i wanted to use his fuel safely, he gave me the additive list. he mentioned that if the alcohol or mtbe were over 10 or 15 % that it had to be labeled on the pump. boyd utah ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kenmead(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Subject: Helmet for sale
I have a helmet for sale that is like a Comtronics Ultra Pro - in size medium. It has a snap on the inside top of it and a double D strap under the chin. Email me if interested or for more information. Kathy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 10/30/00
Date: Nov 02, 2000
For John Richmond The 8x25' enclosed trailer with roll up door. Guy asking $500 for it--have not had time to go look at it--all I know he used it for a storage shed. Phone Number 334-983-1218--- He started advertising it in the Dothan Eagle that covers Lower Alabama, Georgia SW Part to Bainbridge, and The panhandle--Panama City to Pensacola. Bought quite a few trailers over the years-and price is definitely right if in above average condition. Our fly in is this weekend-I will try to contact the individual--The roll up door and insulation must be worth approx. $300. Lindy Level Plains, Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Clamps
Date: Nov 02, 2000
The education continues. A couple of days ago, I went to the local Ace Hardware Aircraft Supply, and bought a handful of clamps. I think they're called "Adel Clamps," or some such. These are gonna hold my shiny new fuel and oil lines in position, neat and tight for evermore...............and look sexy to boot. Right ?? Right ! ! ! I know A.C. Spruce has the aluminum ones for a reasonable price, but I'm a little mad at them, and besides, I wanted to jump right on this, and get it going. Riiiight ! ! ! So, now that my money's safely spent, tonight I read the new Nov. 2000 issue of Custom Planes, ( this is an Excellent Magazine, folks ! ! ! ) and lo and behold, there's a full article on..........................Adel Clamps. All kinds. Didn't even know there were "all kinds." Now I do, and they're even stamped with a code, telling you what you have. The article has a key, telling which code signifies what, and the properties of each. My shiny new clamps are stamped " G10," which turns out to be "low carbon steel band, with chloroprene cushion, good to 212 degrees F." 10 is the size in 16th's. No - these aren't a "perfect 10." Well, the cushion is good, but the band is not recommended for aircraft use. Wouldn't ya know it. This is twice in a week. I'm still smarting from the compass fiasco, and now this. Speaking of that, since the compass is on its' way, I'll go ahead and work with it a bit, and see what happens. Head Shakin' Lar. P.S. The Aircraft Spruce version are coded "DF," which means aluminum band, nitrile cushion, 212 degrees." Recommended for most applications, especially in fuel systems, good resistance to ozone. Oh well, I guess the others can go in the grab box, for another use, another time. Live and Learn. Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 10/30/00
Date: Nov 02, 2000
Man, I wish that was out here on the Best Coast. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lindy" <lindy(at)snowhill.com> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 9:25 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 10/30/00 > > For John Richmond > > The 8x25' enclosed trailer with roll up door. > > Guy asking $500 for it--have not had time to go look at it--all I know he > used it for a storage shed. > > Phone Number 334-983-1218--- He started advertising it in the Dothan Eagle > that covers Lower Alabama, Georgia SW Part to Bainbridge, and The > panhandle--Panama City to Pensacola. > > Bought quite a few trailers over the years-and price is definitely right if > in above average condition. > > Our fly in is this weekend-I will try to contact the individual--The roll up > door and insulation must be worth approx. $300. > > Lindy > Level Plains, Alabama > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Jabiru
Clay, Kolb has a Jabiru on one of the Kolbras. They weren't allowed to fly it at Oshkosh because it had less than 40 hours. But it was flown there from Kentucky. John Jung Clay Stuart wrote: > > Kolb has updated its web site. They are now listing the Jabiru as an engine > option on the Mark III and Mark IIIXtra. The performance figures are the > same as the Rotax 912. I wonder if they have flown this configuration, or > are just extrapolating from the Kolbra installation? > > Does anyone know anything about the Prince P-tip prop. Jabiru recommends > this prop for many applications according to the factory rep at the Kolb > fly-in. > > Clay Stuart > Danville KY > Mark IIIXtra kit on order ________________________________________________________________________________
From: aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann)
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Re: gas
So....... What are the additives in the Amoco gas? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 11/01/00
In a message dated 11/2/00 3:01:11 AM Eastern Standard Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: << I will turn your Contributions back into more upgrades and improvements. It is truly an investment in the future of these Lists. To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard, please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 >> Matt, when I went to this page it could not be displayed..... GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
Subject: Rudder pedal
Date: Nov 03, 2000
I have used a 2 inch foam cushion behind my back in my Firestar because I need it to reach the rudder pedals. My wife is even shorter so we needed another way to reach the pedals. I found a swimming pool toy called Fun Noodle--a cylyndrical closed foam floatation toy. I drilled a smallhole in a 5 inch section and slipped it over the rudder pedal. I used double stick carpet tape to hold it in place and it works great to get a littl bit of an extension on the pedals. I do not need the foam in back of me but my wife needs both. It is light and cheap. Dale Seitzer ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Clamps [and Co-Pilot Compass]
In a message dated 11/3/00 1:49:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com writes: << Wouldn't ya know it. This is twice in a week. I'm still smarting from the compass fiasco, and now this. Speaking of that, since the compass is on its' way, I'll go ahead and work with it a bit, and see what happens. Head Shakin' Lar. >> Lar, don't give up on the Co-pilot compass yet!! I installed mine yesterday, taxied the Firestar in a few circles, and was no more than 5 degrees off on all 4 runways. Today, I will re-calibrate with the tail raised to flying attitude; I expect good things. With your compass you will get a cigarette lighter adapter for external 12vdc power. Since my radio & GPS are powered the same way, I went to Radio Shack and bought an adapter that gives me 3 places to plug in to; it also has 3 neat looking LED's to tell you the condition of your battery. I believe the important thing is to follow the instructions for your compass to a "T" and be sure to calibrate it at FLYING ATTITUDE. Note: The Co-pilot shuts itself off after 10 minutes or so if it doesn't see any course changes. On a long straight road, while testing it in my car, it shut itself off. Very precise flyers may need to make a small "S" turn every now & then. Howard "Shack" Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kenmead(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Strut for Firestar II
I have for sale one stream lined strut (white) for a Firestar II Best offer. Kathy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: "bob n." <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Rudder pedal
More on rudder pedal extensions: If you are unlucky enough to have heel brakes, make certain you can still get yer heels on the brakes---after you have the rudder pedals extended to the rear. bn short in stature, long on advice ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
Subject: Rudder pedal
Date: Nov 03, 2000
I have air brakes--I hold my arms out. Dale -----Original Message----- From: bob n. Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 10:01 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rudder pedal More on rudder pedal extensions: If you are unlucky enough to have heel brakes, make certain you can still get yer heels on the brakes---after you have the rudder pedals extended to the rear. bn short in stature, long on advice ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Terminaltown(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Clamps
homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com, rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com, zenith-list(at)matronics.com In a message dated 11/2/00 10:49:29 PM Pacific Standard Time, larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com writes: << The education continues. A couple of days ago, I went to the local Ace Hardware Aircraft Supply, and bought a handful of clamps. I think they're called "Adel Clamps," or some such. So, now that my money's safely spent, tonight I read the new Nov. 2000 issue of Custom Planes, the article has a key, telling which code signifies what, and the properties of each. My shiny new clamps are stamped " G10," which turns out to be "low carbon steel band, with chloroprene cushion, good to 212 degrees F." 10 is the size in 16th's. No - these aren't a "perfect 10." Well, the cushion is good, but the band is not recommended for aircraft use. Wouldn't ya know it. >> Hello Big Lar: DG = Aluminum band, (212F) Chloroprene Cushion Chloroprene - Used in general purpose areas where there is a possibilty of contaminated with petroleum based hydraulic fluids and occasional fuel splash. Excellent ozone resistant. Not resistant to phosphate-ester based fluids. Color of cushion is black with a blue identifier marking. Do not use on titanium tubing. Also cushion has a wegge to stop over tightening We carry DG Adel Mil Spec clamps and they will fit your needs. They are at http://www.terminaltown.com or click here Terminal Town's Electrical Connectors Mil Spec Adel Clamps Also Bob N. has a very good page of info on Adels at http://www.aeroelectric/articles/adel.com or click here Adel Clamps John @ Terminal Town ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: List Fund Raiser Continues...
Hello Listers! This is just a reminder that the Annual List Fund Raiser is currently underway. Won't you make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of this valuable resource? Your Contribution can be made via a Secure SSL Internet Transaction with your Visa or MasterCard at the URL shown below or you may send it via US Mail to the address also listed below. http://www.matronics.com/contribution or c/o Matt Dralle Matronics P.O. Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you for your support! Your generosity directly makes this List possible. Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Rudder pedal
Sometimes you can find Fun Noodles with a 5/8" hole lengthwise down the middle. Cut off a length and slip it over the aileron torque tube that runs between the seats on the MKIII. Makes a good elbow cushion. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >I have used a 2 inch foam cushion behind my back in my Firestar because I >need it to reach the rudder pedals. My wife is even shorter so we needed >another way to reach the pedals. I found a swimming pool toy called Fun >Noodle--a cylyndrical closed foam floatation toy. I drilled a smallhole >in a 5 inch section and slipped it over the rudder pedal. I used double >stick carpet tape to hold it in place and it works great to get a littl bit >of an extension on the pedals. I do not need the foam in back of me but my >wife needs both. It is light and cheap. >Dale Seitzer > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Rudder pedal
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Go to a bike shop that sells BMX bike accessories (Sometimes Wally world). They make pads complete with leather or vinyl covers that wrap around the cushion and velcro together. They are intended to keep junior from damaging important parts when he wrecks his bike and hits the tubes. That's what I'm gonna use for a elbow rest... Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 2:04 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rudder pedal Sometimes you can find Fun Noodles with a 5/8" hole lengthwise down the middle. Cut off a length and slip it over the aileron torque tube that runs between the seats on the MKIII. Makes a good elbow cushion. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >I have used a 2 inch foam cushion behind my back in my Firestar because I >need it to reach the rudder pedals. My wife is even shorter so we needed >another way to reach the pedals. I found a swimming pool toy called Fun >Noodle--a cylyndrical closed foam floatation toy. I drilled a smallhole >in a 5 inch section and slipped it over the rudder pedal. I used double >stick carpet tape to hold it in place and it works great to get a littl bit >of an extension on the pedals. I do not need the foam in back of me but my >wife needs both. It is light and cheap. >Dale Seitzer > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: 2 ducks
Worse than that, when you fly behind a flock of geese, do not get lower than they are and then close up on the flock. If you do, and they freak out, geese will pull in one wing and do a "falling maple leaf", where they suddenly fall out of the formation and spin down about 50 feet, then stick the wing back out and recover. I first experienced that trick in my Hummer years ago, and I was low enough and close enough behind the Vee that one of them just missed hitting the leading edge of the right wing. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >One note of caution:::: Never Never fly BEHIND ducks or geese. If you do, >DO NOT OPEN YOUR MOUTH... > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 03, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 11/02/00
In a message dated 11/3/00 10:05:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, GeoR38 writes: << Well Dave, ...only cause you are from El Paso, ...my ol "home" on Orizaba on the west side and Denny .... only cause you used to be a 'Dactyl' driver.....and cause I can't remember if I told it before on this list and cause I feel a little...actually a LOT like RED SKELTON...(remember him?)...naw...youns guys are probably too young..... ...So I'm flyin along and happen to see these 2 ducks floppin along and tried to catch up to them...have you ever been behind a duck's behind....while in flight...HAH! Now that is a funny sight as that white rear end goes humpin about with every wing stroke....especially when the poor beastlet is....curious...namely looking back at you, obviously Wondering as much as a DUCK can wonder....."what an ugly bird you are!" I couldn't hear him saying that, I could only surmise that is what he was thinking to himself....because of the perplexed expression on his face. You know , I'm sure you have all seen the deep furrows on the sloped (feathered?) forehead of a working duck.....looking back at you passed his own humping bottom! Well, he quit clearly decided that I was not to fly with him and his female friend as he pulled his head up front for more aerodynamics, looked down to the right, spotted his favorite swamp, and spun slowly with his mate down towards the protecting flora 400 ft below. Well, don't forget, I'm kinda like a duck (the ugly kind) too, and proceeded to follow as close to them as possible almost all the way down to the beckoning green and reflecting waters and lillies. The same lead duck needed to confirm to himself that he had successfully dumped me before dropping leg and preparing for final, so he looked back again. I swear I COULD see SURPRISE registered on fowl frown as they both, without so much as a confirming "quack" attacked the thick air down there with their strong reliable wings to regain altitude and devise another escape idea!! After taking 3 minutes to follow them back up to altitude (probably 500 feet) I followed them in a straight line now as they aimed their sleek bodies towards Mosquito Lake about a mile away. Wait! did I say 'sleek bodies'? Yea, that's it, they actually changed the shape of their planeform for this new plan that they so silently communicated to each other as they became more aerodynamic! Hey! I know ! ...I was there! The neck stuck out farther, the body seemed to go slimmer , and the white bobbing tail seemed to bob less as the two ducks seemed to "bear down" to leave the dirty Dac behind. And leave it behind they did as I could not give it more than max throttle to keep up to them. They left me in their streamlined dust as they sought shelter from the ugliest looking Dac that I'm sure they had ever seen and disappeared in the mile distance to the lake. GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Rudder pedal
Date: Nov 03, 2000
I'm told some of them fly on hot air. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dale Seitzer" <dale(at)gmada.com> Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 9:31 AM Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Rudder pedal > > I have air brakes--I hold my arms out. Dale > > -----Original Message----- > From: bob n. > Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 10:01 AM > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rudder pedal > > > More on rudder pedal extensions: > > If you are unlucky enough to have heel brakes, make certain you can still get > yer heels on the brakes---after you have the rudder pedals extended to the > rear. > > bn short in stature, long on advice > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 11/02/00
Date: Nov 04, 2000
What makes you thing I don't remember Red Skelton? Had to be the funniest guy that ever lived! Thanks for the story, I don't remember the early UL's as I was in the army, overseas, and raising a family on little pay, but I understand they did not perform to today's standard. Funny Story, we however chase coyotes around sand dunes here, you should see the look on their faces when unable to shake their tormentor! Best regards, Dave. FS II Republic of Texas -----Original Message----- From: GeoR38(at)aol.com <GeoR38(at)aol.com> Date: Friday, November 03, 2000 5:53 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 11/02/00 > >In a message dated 11/3/00 10:05:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, GeoR38 writes: > ><< Well Dave, ...only cause you are from El Paso, ...my ol "home" on Orizaba >on the west side and Denny .... only cause you used to be a 'Dactyl' >driver.....and cause I can't remember if I told it before on this list and >cause I feel a little...actually a LOT like RED SKELTON...(remember >him?)...naw...youns guys are probably too young..... Snip- >They left me in their streamlined dust as they sought shelter from the >ugliest looking Dac that I'm sure they had ever seen and disappeared in the >mile distance to the lake. >GeoR38 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2000
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: What size alternator to use?
>From: "Sid Lloyd" <glastar1(at)swbell.net> > >I want to use one of the B & C Specialty Products lightweight alternators and >their regulators. They offer both a 60 and a 40 amp version. How do you >know which one to get? Do you add up your planned electrical load and >figure it out that way? > >Thanks, > >Sid You need to accomplish what is called a "load analysis" for the various phases of flight. Some folks do it on a spread sheet and enter continuous running load (transmit doesn't count, lowing landing gear generally doesn't count, only add up loads that are on for duration of the flight phase). Main Bus Loads ============================================================================ =========== Pre- Taxi Climb VFR IFR Decent Taxi Alt Flt Cruise Cruise Out Battery contactor 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Engine Gages 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Strobe Lts 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Nav Lts Fuel Pump Landing Lt 7.5 Taxi Lt 4.5 Pitot Heat 5.0 Main Bus Totals Essential Bus Loads ============================================================================ =========== Pre- Taxi Climb VFR IFR Decent Taxi Alt Flt Cruise Cruise Out Com 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 GPS 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 T/C 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Transponder/Encoder 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Map Lt/Pnl Flood 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 E-Bus Totals 1.25 The list above is not intended to be all inclusive nor are the figures entered intended to be representative of your airplane . . . you need to do the homework and get all the data approprate to the equipment you plan to use. You might also include a column headed NITE VFR . . . After all the continuous loads are added up, total loads for E-Bus and Main bus should not be so great in any class of operation such that it doesn't leave 10A or so to recharge your battery. The FAA uses a rule-of-thumb on the order of 20 percent of alternator output should be reserved for battery charging. A better rule is to figure out how much snort it takes to completely recharge your battery in 1 hour of flight. If you have an 18 a.h. battery, then you need 18A of extra output over and above your max continuous running loads. If you make it an operating rule for your airplane that you will NEVER depart into potentially stressful flight conditions unless the battery is fully charged, then you don't need to meet the 1 hour "rule" . . . If on hopefully very rare occasions that you find your ship's battery totally dead, you make sure the battery is mostly recharged before launching into the blue then you can sensibly mitigate your alternator requriements. The classic rules of thumb observed by certified aircraft designers originat from the padded cockpit environment where the pilot is assumed to know nothing about how the system was architectured or how it operates. You are all encouraged to understand what's happening, why, and be able to operate comfortably with it based on purposeful decision making. I'm not sure the chart above will pass through all of the various lists with the columns intact so I've dumped this e-mail to a .pdf file which you may doanload at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/loadanal.pdf Bob . . . Bob . . . -------------------------------------------- ( Knowing about a thing is different from ) ( understanding it. One can know a lot ) ( and still understand nothing. ) ( C.F. Kettering ) -------------------------------------------- http://www.aeroelectric.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Covering Question?
Date: Nov 05, 2000
I covered one h. stab and two elevators yesterday afternoon. Things went okay, for my first try at this stuff. Some of you you've done it many times would say it's a beginners job but I feel good about it. My question is with the hinge for the elevators. How do I work with the fabric in reinstalling the hinges? I've predrilled all the hinge holes. I read somewhere to use a soldering iron to open up the holes. Will the fabric throw off the alignment of the hinges in relation to the h stab or v stab? Kenny B. Firestar Tucson, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2000
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Covering Question?
Will the fabric > throw off the alignment of the hinges in relation to the h stab or v stab? > > Kenny B. Kenny and Gang: Don't think so. That is the way I have always done it, and with good results. john h Titus, Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2000
From: Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Bird stuff...
Beauford, >Gonna fly that Fly tomorrow... might even leave the county... gasp... Saturday was a nice day to fly. Ann and I were out at Manatee and missed you. Today we went on there (with an out of town friend) and had a couple of hours of grins watching the trikes and other various contraptions fly. Even got my friend a ride in a trike which he liked very much. Thanks for all of the updates. I'm way behind on my e-mail reading and end up deleting most of it unread. Rest assured, I do read your stuff! :-) Skip ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Dean" <sparky2(at)thegrid.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 11/04/00
Date: Nov 05, 2000
On automotive stuff I test each component individually for amp draw. This allows me to use a smaller (and more accurate) amp meter. This is a true test for what the amperage requirements are, and may give you a better idea what size alternator you need over doing an 'analysis'. The true test when you're done is to see if your amperage is less than max for the alternator and the voltage output remains steady without overheating the alternator. It's best to test the components at 13.8 volts. Testing with battery voltage can skew things a bit. A running alternator or a 13.8V power supply are best for testing. Your thought of adding up the planned electrical load is sound, and you'll be sure what that amount is after doing a real working test of the components. To make a LONG story short, amp meters (and their shunts) can be a real pain to install onboard. Volt meters are much easier and simpler. I hope this helps. mark KC7LTV (sparky2atthegriddotnet) > >From: "Sid Lloyd" <glastar1(at)swbell.net> > > > >I want to use one of the B & C Specialty Products lightweight alternators > and > >their regulators. They offer both a 60 and a 40 amp version. How do you > >know which one to get? Do you add up your planned electrical load and > >figure it out that way? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Timex Navigator
Date: Nov 05, 2000
I thought I read a post by someone that had bought a Timex Navigator from Wal-Mart. I have checked with three Wal-Mart stores and none of then have heard of a Timex Navigator. They all have a Timex Explorer that has a compass in it. Did I misunderstand the name of this watch? Ron Payne Gilbertsville, Ky Building FireStar II ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2000
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Trailering
Im working out the transport of my Mk3, and know several of you suggest removing the wings. What is the main concern in traveling with them on? I'm tninking it is just the two connection points that aren't enough. Others ???? ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 05, 2000
Subject: holes in the fabric for rivet holes
I tried all methods for melting the holes in the fabric, soldering iron etc, what I finaly came up with was a piece of weldind rod sharpened and then heated in a propane etc. torch and then I used it hot to melt the fabric for the existing predriled holes. It sounds a bit extreme, but I would do a bunch of holes at once it it worked awsom. Now with 160 hours on the plane and 3 years later, they are still perfect. Jusy incase anybody ws interested. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 05, 2000
Subject: Re: holes in the fabric for rivet holes
I would like to add, make the holes after your first coat of poly brush brushed on or you'll have a hard time finding them after you paint the fabric. Will Uribe El Paso, TX http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Trailering
Have never trailered mine so maybe am not personally qualified to have an opinion, but have talked to several who have trailered, and I have also moved a MKIII around a lot from the hangar to the house, so maybe I am qualified... The wings leading edge hangs very close to the ground. You must be careful when loading/unloading not to bark the leading edges, between the mains and the tailwheel, on whatever high points there are on the trailer or ramp. You have to support the rear fuselage while the trailer is in motion, the tailwheel strut is not intended to support the weight of the airplane and the wings when folded. If you have a trailer that would allow the wings to be hung/strapped on the trailer sides, (inside or outside) you avoid those problems, and you only have to remove just one more bolt per wing. So it all depends on the layout of your trailer which is easier, on or off. Seems to me that the wing folding option is more useful for storing several folded Kolbs in one hangar to keep everybody's rent down, and the wing removal is less like to damage anything when conducting serious transport. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Kingsport, Tn > > >Im working out the transport of my Mk3, and know several of you suggest >removing the wings. What is the main concern in traveling with them >on? I'm tninking it is just the two connection points that aren't >enough. Others ???? > >===== >John & Lynn Richmond :-) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Volum" <pvolum(at)etsmiami.com>
Subject: Trailering
Date: Nov 06, 2000
If you have to attach and remove the wings for each flight, you will fly less. Your wings will also get a lot more hanger rash. Find a way to trailer the plane with the wings supported in the folded position and you won't regret it. In the next week or so I will make available pictures on my (open trailer) solution to this problem for anybody who is interested. Peter Volum -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Richmond Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2000 5:49 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Trailering Im working out the transport of my Mk3, and know several of you suggest removing the wings. What is the main concern in traveling with them on? I'm tninking it is just the two connection points that aren't enough. Others ???? ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "INFO" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com>
Subject: Fw: Melting holes in fabric............
Date: Nov 06, 2000
From: INFO Sent: Monday, November 06, 2000 10:29 AM Subject: Melting holes in fabric............ Buy a Weller pencil point soldering iron from sears for around $11.00, works very good for all the holes, (rib fabric rivets, hinge rivet holes, etc. Jim & Dondi Miller Aircraft Technical Support, Inc. Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors (Toll Free) (877) 877-3334 Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com www.aircrafttechsupport.com E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 06, 2000
Subject: Re: Trailering
I'd like to see pic's of an open trailer, is your's a converted boat trailer by chance? ___!___ -----------( / )----------- " " Bill Johnston Jr Building Mark III Classic Harpers Ferry, WV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 06, 2000
Subject: 582 Rotax mount nuts
Hey folks, I'm missing the nuts that go on the engine mounting studs for a Rotax 582, wondering if any body out there would know the size on these nuts or a Rotax part number so I can either go to a local supply or call Rotax distributer. Thanks in advance guys and gals! ___!___ -----------( / )----------- " " Bill Johnston Jr Building Mark III Classic Harpers Ferry, WV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Trailering
Date: Nov 06, 2000
I would be interested in seeing your pictures. Thanks in advance... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Volum" <pvolum(at)etsmiami.com> > In the next week or so I will make available pictures on my (open trailer) > solution to this problem for anybody who is interested. > > Peter Volum ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Volum" <pvolum(at)etsmiami.com>
Subject: Trailering
Date: Nov 06, 2000
If your question was directed to me, the answer is "yes" - it is a converted boat trailer. I'll bring a digital camera to work tomorrow and take a few pictures of it for posting. Peter Volum -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of WingManBill2(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, November 06, 2000 5:05 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Trailering I'd like to see pic's of an open trailer, is your's a converted boat trailer by chance? ___!___ -----------( / )----------- " " Bill Johnston Jr Building Mark III Classic Harpers Ferry, WV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kenmead(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 06, 2000
Subject: makeshift boom holder
I have a makeshift boom holder that can be attached to the base of a trailer. If anyone wants it - it is cheap - just name a price. Kathy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kenmead(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 06, 2000
Subject: Re: Its in the mail
The "boom holder" is just a couple of pieces of wood that is covered with carpet. It can be rigged on a hinge so that it lies flat when you put the plane on the bed of the trailer, then pull it upright with an attached cord to be in place under the boom to take relief off the tail wheel. Actually anyone could rig up this set up. I would fit in a box all by itself. Kathy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: Fly-in by the Florida Flying Gators
Date: Nov 06, 2000
How About ait FL Crackers? Any Kolbers going to the Florida Flying Gators annual flyin this Saturday? I'll be there with my red/silver Suburban pulling a white trailer/green trim with a white SlingShot inside it. Hope to meet some neighbors! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Compasses - Again
Date: Nov 07, 2000
I've lived with the new Co-Pilot compass for 3 days now, and have my GPS hooked up in the car, along with the compass. Right away, I found that the instructions aren't kidding. It makes a BIG difference where that compass is pointed. They say straight back, out the back window, and they don't mean 5 off. Then, when making the circles, the lady at PN said to Drive around in circles, don't just rotate the compass. Book says more than 20 seconds per circle, less than 60. Twice around, punch the button, do it twice more. Then it drove me nuts all the way to Bermuda Dunes, ( 15 mi. ) for the EAA meeting on Sat. morning. Finally realized it was consistently 10 - 15 off, but at 1st didn't make sense. Then, "Flash," check the sectional - AHA - deviation for this area is 13, 30". GPS is showing true north, compass is on magnetic. Since then, all has been hunky-dory. In the car. Which is not an airplane, with different ignition, etc. So, we'll keep playing with it. How has yours been doing, Howard ?? Have you had it in your plane yet ?? Now, a slightly different tack: The Co-Pilot compass shows new headings almost instantly. The GPS lags behind quite a bit, and sometimes seems to have a little trouble making up its' mind. Course, it's 5 yrs old now, and ancient technology. Also, I've never really watched it like this, and compared it to something else, and it's always taken me exactly to where I wanted to go. Maybe ignorance really is bliss. Then too, I've never eagle-eyed a regular compass like this either, and it's well within the realms of reason to suspect that a regular compass might have some problems too. No telling what the effects of a climb, or dive might be on this thing, tho' a regular compass has fits too. We'll keep y'all posted on future developments. Spinny Lar. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MitchMnD(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: Re: Trailering
Duncan, If you will send me your snail-mail address I will mail you the drawings and specs for my trailer. I had it built by a local company and it has worked beautifully. My plane is a FireFly but these documents may give you a good baseline for whatever Kolb you want to haul. One important feature is that I can get into the trailer with the plane loaded and work on almost any part of the plane. This really helps if you don't have a hangar because you don't have to unload the plane to work on it. Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FireFly, SN 007, 447, Ivo ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 582 Rotax mount nuts
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Bill, My lockwood catalog shows the 582 mounting nuts as M10, ie: metric 10mm. No thread pitch given but my 503 thread looks pretty course and they are probobly the same. good Luck Denny -----Original Message----- From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com <WingManBill2(at)aol.com> Date: Monday, November 06, 2000 5:39 PM Subject: Kolb-List: 582 Rotax mount nuts > >Hey folks, I'm missing the nuts that go on the engine mounting studs for a >Rotax 582, wondering if any body out there would know the size on these nuts >or a Rotax part number so I can either go to a local supply or call Rotax >distributer. Thanks in advance guys and gals! > > ___!___ > -----------( / )----------- > " " >Bill Johnston Jr >Building Mark III Classic >Harpers Ferry, WV > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway...
Hi Listers, Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The continued operation and improvement of these services are directly enabled by the generous contributions of its members. You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using the Matronics SSL Secure website at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or with a personal check to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution! Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: Re: Zanzoterra 202 Engine
In a message dated 11/7/00 12:55:57 AM Eastern Standard Time, rowedl(at)alltel.net writes: << the Zanzottera 202 is looking good. I see that MZs web sight has been down for remodeling the last few days, can't wait to see what they add. >> Whatcha gonna do about the muffler? ASAP told me the factory has not done any work on it so the engine will fit a Firestar I. If they demonstrate to me that it will fit the FS, I might spring for one; 65 HP & elec. start at only 91 lbs sounds mighty good. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: Re: Compasses - Again
In a message dated 11/7/00 3:47:14 AM Eastern Standard Time, larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com writes: << Since then, all has been hunky-dory. In the car. Which is not an airplane, with different ignition, etc. So, we'll keep playing with it. How has yours been doing, Howard ?? Have you had it in your plane yet ?? Now, a slightly different tack: The Co-Pilot >> Yeah, I have it in the plane. Didn't think about the magnetic north thing; that will explain some of the deviation. You are right about pointing it staight back to calibrate. Also, be sure to calibrate at straight & level pitch attitude. Two problems: 1. If you fly a straight line several minutes, it will cut itself off- must make a little "S" turn every now & then to preclude that. 2. Have the compass mounted on my windshield close to the instrument panel and there is some vibration which causes the snap-in mount to come loose; must find a better place to mount. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Zanzoterra 202 Engine
Date: Nov 07, 2000
-----Original Message----- From: HShack(at)aol.com <HShack(at)aol.com> Date: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 6:29 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Zanzoterra 202 Engine > >In a message dated 11/7/00 12:55:57 AM Eastern Standard Time, >rowedl(at)alltel.net writes: > ><< the > Zanzottera 202 is looking good. I see that MZs web sight has been down for > remodeling the last few days, can't wait to see what they add. >> > >Whatcha gonna do about the muffler? ASAP told me the factory has not done >any work on it so the engine will fit a Firestar I. > Thought I might run it around the front of the engine like Earthstar did, would have to attatch it to the same plates the engine is mounted to so it would move with the engine. Don't know what I would do with the exit end, I'd have to make it up as I went. >If they demonstrate to me that it will fit the FS, I might spring for one; >65 HP & elec. start at only 91 lbs sounds mighty good. > Wow! putting one on a FS? Your Wild! :-) Later, Denny >Howard Shackleford >FS I >SC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Compasses and my DRE headsets
Date: Nov 07, 2000
>Two problems: 1. If you fly a straight line several minutes, it will cut >itself off- must make a little "S" turn every now & then to preclude that. I think that there is a way to turn the auto off feature off... check the manual. you can calibrate for tilt before you calibrate with the multiple turns. The sensor is a 3d magnetometer so its accuracy is not truly effected by the tilt, but you have to calibrate for it. I flew with my DRE-6000 in the aircoupe, and also in the Mazda powered RV-6a. the results were very impressive. I would recommend it as an affordable ENC headset. very high quality, only bad thing is the battery box is a bit big, holds 2 9 volt batteries, and also plugs into aircraft power, if available. Wish there was a way to run off aircraft power without the battery box to drag around but apparently cant do it. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2000
From: Annamarie <vincentam(at)chartermi.net>
Subject: cruise speed
The Kolb Firestar advertises a cruise speed of 70 MPH (at 75% power); I do not come near this speed. My prop is set at 6,200 RPM on take off. I am running a Rotax 503, with a "C" gear box with a 3:1 gear ratio, and a 3 blade 68 inch Ivo Prop. Would it be better to run a 2 blade Ivo or would it be better to use a smaller diameter 3 blade; to get more cruise and yet keep some of my great climb. Bill Vincent Firestar II Quinnesec, Michigan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net>
Subject: Re: Nov. Experimenter SlingShot
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Listers, There's a short blurb on a modified Kolb SlingShot with barn door flaps & the Ultratec engine. Builder Bill Genteman, near Milwaukee WI, uses it as a tug for gliders. Article claims an 18-90mph speed range. Sounds unrealistic to me. Anyone know something about this guy or the plane? ...Richard Swiderski ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: Nov. Experimenter SlingShot
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Kolbers, Yes, Bill Genteman has done some amazing things with various Kolb aircraft over the past several years. His focus is building tugs for towing hang gliders aloft. He started towing with a stock Mark-III with Rotax 582. He did okay, but it was a tad fast for towing. Some "experts" declared that a Mark-III was just too fast to tow - but Bill proved them wrong. The goal is to tow in a speed range that is comfortable for the hang glider. Next step for Bill, was an extended wing with larger flaps and ailerons for his Mark-III. This made a big difference and slowed it up 4-5 mph compared to the stock. This resulted in a much more comfortable towing speed. The tow speeds that he had quoted (about 25 mph as I recall) on the extended span Mark-III were confirmed by the hang gliders who were towed behind. They use Hall ASI which are pretty accurate. I had a chance to fly this one at Oshkosh a couple years ago and it sure did fly slowly. I don't know as much about his new modified SS. It has a heavier engine, but lighter fuselage. I don't know how much wing it has. One thing to keep in mind is that he tows near stall speed, which means he is flying at a large angle of attack with full flaps. This means the engine at full power is providing some direct lift due to angle of propeller, which in effect reduces the weight the wings need to carry - thus lowering the towing speed. So whatever his tow speed is reported to be, it is undoubtedly less than what the power off stall speed would be. Bill is a bit like you Richard, when he gets an idea in his head, he is tenacious and doesn't believe others when they say it can't be done. Richard, you should get in contact with Bill, I think you both would have a great time comparing notes. Dennis -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Swiderski Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 9:55 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Nov. Experimenter SlingShot Listers, There's a short blurb on a modified Kolb SlingShot with barn door flaps & the Ultratec engine. Builder Bill Genteman, near Milwaukee WI, uses it as a tug for gliders. Article claims an 18-90mph speed range. Sounds unrealistic to me. Anyone know something about this guy or the plane? ...Richard Swiderski ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: cruise speed
Why don't you spend ten bucks and get two Ivo prop blocks so that you can take your three blade and convert it to a two blade just to see what it does? I am using a 66" two blade Ivo on my 532 with a 2.58:1 gearbox and it is very satisfactory. Vince Nicely (Firestar II) & I did some flight tests with my MKIII / Ivo prop combination, he crunched the numbers in a computer program he has and said the Ivo was 70% efficient against a theoretical maximum of 80%, so I was very pleased. Your 503 has good torque compared to my old 532, and your 3:1 gearbox will help in that regard also. Remove one of your blades, fit in the two prop blocks and go for it. Be sure and prop it so that it is hitting red line at full throttle level flight, and don't worry about what it is doing static unless it is really low. I turn 5900-6000 static and 6000-6200 climbout and my top end is hanging right around 87-92 at 6500-6700 RPM. Don't know why it is not consistent, but at least it is fairly high. Try it and let us know how it works. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >The Kolb Firestar advertises a cruise speed of 70 MPH (at 75% power); I >do not come near this speed. My prop is set at 6,200 RPM on take off. I >am running a Rotax 503, with a "C" gear box with a 3:1 gear ratio, and a >3 blade 68 inch Ivo Prop. >Would it be better to run a 2 blade Ivo or would it be better to use a >smaller diameter 3 blade; to get more cruise and yet keep some of my >great climb. > >Bill Vincent >Firestar II >Quinnesec, Michigan > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruzan3(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: Re: Nov. Experimenter SlingShot
Rich, I fly with Bill Genteman out of Aeropark (76c) in Wisconsin. The modified Slingshot hasnt gotten too many hours because of many problems with the Motavia engine.First,the gearbox went.Then electronic problems. He was late getting into Oshkosh a few days because of overheating problems. The Ultratec guys helped him get the plane to OSH but thepics you saw are are kinda like the spruce goose photos. Ultratec sold the company to a recreational vehicle outfit in wisc so he sent the engine back. He is now waiting for an exhaust for the new blue head 582 and he should be towing hang gliders soon. John Bruzan FSII 503 EIS BRS 75 hr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: cruise speed
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Richard, A two blade IVO at 68" dia will not absorb a 503s power at a 3-1 ratio, it will over rev at full pitch. I tried running my single carb 503 on the Loehle with only two blades on my 66" IVO at 2.58 ratio, and it over reved big time. Of course my setup isn't turning a cooling fan which may make a differance. My $.02 denny -----Original Message----- From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> Date: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 11:22 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cruise speed > >Why don't you spend ten bucks and get two Ivo prop blocks so that >you can take your three blade and convert it to a two blade just to >see what it does? I am using a 66" two blade Ivo on my 532 with a >2.58:1 gearbox and it is very satisfactory. >Vince Nicely (Firestar II) & I did some flight tests with my MKIII / Ivo >prop combination, he crunched the numbers in a computer program >he has and said the Ivo was 70% efficient against a theoretical maximum >of 80%, so I was very pleased. Your 503 has good torque compared to >my old 532, and your 3:1 gearbox will help in that regard also. >Remove one of your blades, fit in the two prop blocks and go for it. >Be sure and prop it so that it is hitting red line at full throttle level >flight, >and don't worry about what it is doing static unless it is really low. >I turn 5900-6000 static and 6000-6200 climbout and my top end is hanging >right around 87-92 at 6500-6700 RPM. Don't know why it is not consistent, >but at least it is fairly high. >Try it and let us know how it works. >Richard Pike >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >> >>The Kolb Firestar advertises a cruise speed of 70 MPH (at 75% power); I >>do not come near this speed. My prop is set at 6,200 RPM on take off. I >>am running a Rotax 503, with a "C" gear box with a 3:1 gear ratio, and a >>3 blade 68 inch Ivo Prop. >>Would it be better to run a 2 blade Ivo or would it be better to use a >>smaller diameter 3 blade; to get more cruise and yet keep some of my >>great climb. >> >>Bill Vincent >>Firestar II >>Quinnesec, Michigan >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: cruise speed
Thanks for the info. I would not have guessed that much difference between a 2.58:1 / 532 and a 3:1 / 503 with a bigger prop. A 2-blade 66" Ivo, 2.58:1 with a 532 uses half the available adjustment. Live and learn. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >Richard, >A two blade IVO at 68" dia will not absorb a 503s power at a 3-1 ratio, it >will over rev at full pitch. >I tried running my single carb 503 on the Loehle with only two blades on my >66" IVO at 2.58 ratio, and it over reved big time. Of course my setup isn't >turning a cooling fan which may make a differance. >My $.02 >denny >-----Original Message----- >From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >Date: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 11:22 PM >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cruise speed > > >> >>Why don't you spend ten bucks and get two Ivo prop blocks so that >>you can take your three blade and convert it to a two blade just to >>see what it does? I am using a 66" two blade Ivo on my 532 with a >>2.58:1 gearbox and it is very satisfactory. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: Homebuilt-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway...
--> Homebuilt-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) Hi Listers, Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The continued operation and improvement of these services are directly enabled by the generous contributions of its members. You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using the Matronics SSL Secure website at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or with a personal check to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution! Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: Zenith-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway...
--> Zenith-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) Hi Listers, Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The continued operation and improvement of these services are directly enabled by the generous contributions of its members. You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using the Matronics SSL Secure website at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or with a personal check to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution! Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 07, 2000
Subject: Rocket-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway...
--> Rocket-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) Hi Listers, Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The continued operation and improvement of these services are directly enabled by the generous contributions of its members. You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using the Matronics SSL Secure website at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or with a personal check to: c/o Matt Dralle Matronics PO Box 347 Livermore, CA 94551 Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution! Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Subject: Huge Apology for "List Malfunction"...
Dear Listers, I am so embarrassed by the List-gone-crazy tonight! I'm not sure exactly went wrong. I'm suspecting that someone with an email account at msm.com may have been reposting my message from this morning over and over again maliciously spamming the system, but I can't really prove that. In any case, I am hugely embarrassed and sorry for the ton of messages that went out tonight regarding the 2000 Fund Raiser. Something went wrong on the system or somebody did me wrong; in either case I apologize for the huge dump of messages. My sincerest apologies... Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dixieshack(at)webtv.net (orie shackelford)
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 11/07/00
His listers. Anyone out there used the 3 M clear book binding tape for their aileron gap seals? I did and a friend of mine is going to give it a try also. Here's the catch....my supplier says the product I used has been replaced with a stretchy version but he can try ordering the original if I can give him the original part number thats printed on the front of the box. Does anyone still have the box handy or maybe a better memory than mine and remember the part number?? I want to say 850 but...? Mike Shackelford, hillbilly from WV-(currently in Florida) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Wing H-Beams
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Just started to install the first H-beam in a wing spar. One of my H-beams is .076 inches larger than the ID of the wing spar. The other H-beam is .035 larger than the ID of the wing spar. This is measuring at the center of the H-beams right where the cross tube for the 3/8 bolt goes. There is no way to change this. I can get them in I think by clamping the wing spar and making it egg shaped. However .076 inches seems to be a little much. Has anyone else measured these things? The fusaloge H-beam seems to be just right. Ron Payne Gilbertsville, Ky. Building FireStar II ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: cruise speed
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Richard, Another note about the IVO I have, it's the kind of hub with the plates, not the screw adjustment. Maybe the screw type has a wider range of prop pitch. Seems weird that my 503 would over rev at 2.58 and 66" two blade, and your 532 would only use half the adjustment????? Who knows? Denny -----Original Message----- From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> Date: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 1:39 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cruise speed > >Thanks for the info. I would not have guessed that much difference >between a 2.58:1 / 532 and a 3:1 / 503 with a bigger prop. >A 2-blade 66" Ivo, 2.58:1 with a 532 uses half the available adjustment. >Live and learn. >Richard Pike >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >> >>Richard, >>A two blade IVO at 68" dia will not absorb a 503s power at a 3-1 ratio, it >>will over rev at full pitch. >>I tried running my single carb 503 on the Loehle with only two blades on my >>66" IVO at 2.58 ratio, and it over reved big time. Of course my setup isn't >>turning a cooling fan which may make a differance. >>My $.02 >>denny >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> >>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >>Date: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 11:22 PM >>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cruise speed >> >> >>> >>>Why don't you spend ten bucks and get two Ivo prop blocks so that >>>you can take your three blade and convert it to a two blade just to >>>see what it does? I am using a 66" two blade Ivo on my 532 with a >>>2.58:1 gearbox and it is very satisfactory. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Wing H-Beams
Date: Nov 08, 2000
I love the airplane and would build another one in a heartbeat but some of kolb's manufacturing has a lot to be desired. These are easy parts to manufacturer and there is no excuse for such a deviation for the correct width that is need to exactly fit the diameter of the spar tubes. Have kolb make you some new ones. You bought the best, you deserve the best. John -----Original Message----- From: Ron or Mary Payne [mailto:ronormar(at)apex.net] Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 5:17 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Wing H-Beams Just started to install the first H-beam in a wing spar. One of my H-beams is .076 inches larger than the ID of the wing spar. The other H-beam is .035 larger than the ID of the wing spar. This is measuring at the center of the H-beams right where the cross tube for the 3/8 bolt goes. There is no way to change this. I can get them in I think by clamping the wing spar and making it egg shaped. However .076 inches seems to be a little much. Has anyone else measured these things? The fusaloge H-beam seems to be just right. Ron Payne Gilbertsville, Ky. Building FireStar II ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron" <ron.carroll(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 11/07/00 message
Date: Nov 08, 2000
I just bought the 3M #845 for both the 3" & 1" backing. I used it on my Original Firestar & now on my Mark-lll. It works GREAT! Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: orie shackelford <dixieshack(at)webtv.net> > > His listers. Anyone out there used the 3 M clear book binding tape for > their aileron gap seals? I did and a friend of mine is going to give > it a try also. Here's the catch....my supplier says the product I used > has been replaced with a stretchy version but he can try ordering the > original if I can give him the original part number thats printed on the > front of the box. Does anyone still have the box handy or maybe a > better memory than mine and remember the part number?? I want to say > 850 but...? > > Mike Shackelford, hillbilly from WV-(currently in Florida) > > == the > == > == > == > == > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron" <ron.carroll(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 11/07/00 message
Date: Nov 08, 2000
This should have read 3" & 1.5" , not 3" & 1". Apparently the character for the 1/2 symbol doesn't go through. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron <ron.carroll(at)att.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 6:43 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - > > I just bought the 3M #845 for both the 3" & 1" backing. > I used it on my Original Firestar & now on my Mark-lll. It > works GREAT! > > Ron > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: orie shackelford <dixieshack(at)webtv.net> > > > > His listers. Anyone out there used the 3 M clear book > binding tape for > > their aileron gap seals? I did and a friend of mine is > going to give > > it a try also. Here's the catch....my supplier says the > product I used > > has been replaced with a stretchy version but he can try > ordering the > > original if I can give him the original part number thats > printed on the > > front of the box. Does anyone still have the box handy or > maybe a > > better memory than mine and remember the part number?? I > want to say > > 850 but...? > > > > Mike Shackelford, hillbilly from WV-(currently in Florida) > > > > > == > the > > > == > > > == > > > == > > > == > > > > > > == the > == > == > == > == > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2000
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Wing H-Beams
Ron, If you are worried about it, check with Kolb. But it might be correct. .076 is not much for a 5" tube. I believe mine were snug, but I don't recall measuring. I just pushed them in and drilled and riveted. John Jung Ron or Mary Payne wrote: > > Just started to install the first H-beam in a wing spar. One of my H-beams > is .076 inches larger than the ID of the wing spar. The other H-beam is > .035 larger than the ID of the wing spar. snip............ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Stainless rivets
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Kolbers, Just found out that my local metal supply house has all stainless pop rivets at a great price. All prices listed are for boxes of 500. P/N 40412 1/8x1/8 $24.99 P/N 40415 1/8x3/16 $26.68 P/N 40417 1/8x1/4 $26.98 P/N 40420 1/8x5/16 $32.37 P/N 40421 1/8x3/8 $35.75 P/N 40422 1/8x1/2 $50.14 P/N 40411 1/8x1/16 $46.96 ??? They may need you to meet $100.00 minimum order to ship. Here are their Lexan prices also. .060-clear $56.70 .060-grey smoked $113.90 ouch!!! .093-clear $84.70 .093-grey smoked $$95.00 .118-clear $93.30 .118-grey smoked$104.15 This public service announcement brought to you by Metco Supply 1-800-521-8811. Later Denny Building Mark-3 Gull Doors in Western PA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Wing H-Beams
From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Ron, I ran into the same thing. I think it even mentions the possibility in the manual and they suggest using clamps to form the spar to accept the H frame. I found that mine were more in the "round" after I did this than before. The ribs slipped on easily which they would not have done if the spar was too far out of round. L. Ray Baker Lake Butler, Fl Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB writes: > > > Just started to install the first H-beam in a wing spar. One of my > H-beams > is .076 inches larger than the ID of the wing spar. The other > H-beam is > .035 larger than the ID of the wing spar. This is measuring at the > center > of the H-beams right where the cross tube for the 3/8 bolt goes. > There is > no way to change this. I can get them in I think by clamping the > wing spar > and making it egg shaped. However .076 inches seems to be a little > much. > Has anyone else measured these things? The fusaloge H-beam seems > to be > just right. > > Ron Payne > Gilbertsville, Ky. > Building FireStar II > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: New pictures
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Kolb lister Scott Trask sent me a few pictures taken from under the wing of his Mark 3 that ought to be motivational for those of us in builderland...Thought I'd pass them on for him on my website... http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/Trask/ I'll let Scott tell the details of the 2 of them be believe me ther're great shots. He sent me one more that I left on my other computer and will upload it a little later... Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)mindspring.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: cruise speed
My initial response to your post was "OK, I guess a 3:1 box will make that much difference, even if the prop is 2" longer", but upon reflection, your remarks about the other engine/box/prop combination stop me cold. If your single carb 503 over revved with a 66" 2 blade Ivo with a 2.58:1 box, then something was wrong. I know my 532 is not making less horsepower than a single carb 503, and I am using the same setup you had. Something is not adding up. On my J-6, I had a 66" 2-blade Warp, and when I went from a dual carb 503 to a 532, I first tried it at the same pitch just to see how much faster it would turn the prop, as an indicator of what to expect for power. It was over 7,000 before I got to full throttle. Either you are not getting full pitch out of your prop, or there is some other variable that needs to be brought in. (Not running your 503 on nitrous are you?) Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >Richard, >A two blade IVO at 68" dia will not absorb a 503s power at a 3-1 ratio, it >will over rev at full pitch. >I tried running my single carb 503 on the Loehle with only two blades on my >66" IVO at 2.58 ratio, and it over reved big time. Of course my setup isn't >turning a cooling fan which may make a differance. >My $.02 >denny >-----Original Message----- >From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >Date: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 11:22 PM >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cruise speed > > >> >>Why don't you spend ten bucks and get two Ivo prop blocks so that >>you can take your three blade and convert it to a two blade just to >>see what it does? I am using a 66" two blade Ivo on my 532 with a >>2.58:1 gearbox and it is very satisfactory. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Wing H-Beams
On the subject of quality manufacturing, while at the latest open house down at the Kolb factory, I had the chance to talk with some of the employees there, seems there is one welder that likes to smoke pot while at work!! This might explain some of the mis-welds some of us have discovered. Maybe the good folks at Kolb should look into screening their employees, we are talking about a company that manufactures Aircraft kits! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2000
From: Annamarie <vincentam(at)chartermi.net>
Subject: thanks for cruise info
I really appreciate everyone's time for responding to my "cruise speed" problem. The suggestions will help me out considerably. If you can think of any more information on this subject please send it. Thank you Bill Vincent Firestar II Quinnesec, Michigan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Wing H-Beams
Hey wingman .Look this up in your dictionary."Libel" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com>
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Fw: Melting holes in fabric............
> Buy a Weller pencil point soldering iron from sears for around $11.00, works > very good for all the holes, (rib fabric rivets, hinge rivet holes, etc. Ya know....when you locate the pre-drilled rivet hole just use a new #2 Xacto style blade. A small slit from one side of the hole to the other is all it takes. Sure beats extraneous holes from "heat inattention" / carelessness. J.Baker ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thumb" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Wing H-Beams
Date: Nov 08, 2000
I agree with you Zep251. That is pretty low for any one to put something like that on this list. If true he should take it up with Kolb. Bill Futrell ----- Original Message ----- From: <ZepRep251(at)aol.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 5:28 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Wing H-Beams > > Hey wingman .Look this up in your dictionary."Libel" > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Wing H-Beams
I would not have posted the info if it wasn't true.......... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2000
From: Paul Robinson <kb8wlu(at)tir.com>
Subject: Can i buy a partial kit
I noticed on the kolb web site they have prices for partial kits can i buy just a partial kit? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WingManBill2(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 08, 2000
Subject: Re: Wing H-Beams
Hey Zep, nothing false about my statement, just be careful folks, inspect those cages and other welded parts!! I know I had to send a few pieces back myself!

October 23, 2000 - November 08, 2000

Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cl