Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cv
April 18, 2001 - May 05, 2001
carries through the flare much better, most likely because
of added inertia.
I fly my overweight MK III with ultralights, landing in and
flying out of confined areas some of them can not handle.
The MK III does the job. I stake my buns on that.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Gentlemen:
Not everyone can be John Hauck. Spouses, kids, jobs, mortgages etc.,
weigh all of us down to one degree or another, and that's why, I think, it's
inspirational when a guy flies a Mark 3 to Alaska. Some of us might actually
do a trip like that if we had the time, money, guts etc.; the rest of us just
gape in awe.
The fact of the matter is the vast majority of airplanes in the Kolb
category spend their lives within 10 miles of the airport on sunny weekend
days. So when a Kolber takes a big cross country trip I think its worthy of
note.
Russ Widman flew his Mark 3 from South Jersey Regional (KVAY) to
Lakeland (KLAL) for Sun N' Fun, a total distance of over 1800 miles. In an
airplane which averages 65 kts that is a major accomplishment. It takes
skill and some grit to cross the differing kinds of terrain and weather
systems you encounter on a trip that long, as well as some confidence in your
plane.
Russ' 582 powered Mark 3 has the factory 16.5 gallon tank option and
deviates from the stock configuration in a number of ways, most notably with
a pair of bucket seats. Russ is a machinist/model maker by trade and made a
number of unique custom parts for his plane. It is my hope that a number of
these will ultimately be made available to the Kolb community, among them a
very elegant heat muff that surrounds the muffler and gives excellent cabin
heat, and beautiful plastic fairings that insert in the ends of the lift
struts and clean them up nicely.
Russ flew 125 mile legs and turned the 582 at 6200 rpm all the way.
That resulted in ground speeds of about 70 kts and fuel burns of about 5
gallons per hour. Two hour legs gave him a comfortable fuel reserve. Russ
went at about 3000 feet and encountered a few low ceilings along the way,
occasional moderate turbulence, and several patches of rain, which seemed to
have no effect on the 582.
When Russ originally mentioned his intention to fly to Sun N' Fun I
have to admit I was discouraging. Russ is a low time GA pilot who hadn't
ventured much further than Washington, DC in a 172. His total time in Kolbs
was under 30 and his plane was virtually brand new, just having flown off the
10 hour initial operating restrictions. I told him I thought both he and his
plane were too green. I argued that the worst place to find out about a
problem with your new plane would be far away from your home airport and
comfortable workshop.
When it became apparent that Russ wasn't listening to me and planned
to go anyway I figured the best thing I could do would be to keep an eye on
the weather for him. Russ called me on his cell phone at each stop; I
summarized the DUAT and NEXRAD for him and gave him my "Kolb Weather" opinion
in addition to what he was able to get from flight service. Russ made it
down and back in a total of 4 days. Each time stopping in North Carolina and
sleeping on a couch in the FBO.
This kind of flying has always captured my imagination. As a kid I
listened to an older friend of my father's tell the story of flying from New
Jersey to the Florida Keys shortly after W.W.II in a 65 HP Piper Cub with no
brakes, and always hoped I'd get my own chance to do something like that
someday. It was a crazy trip back then, and even with flight following and
GPS it's still a nutty thing to do. But guys like Russ and John Hauck keep
the dream alive, and I tip my hat to them for it.
See Russ Widman's web page at
http://hometown.aol.com/n112kc/myhomepage/profile.html
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Morning Chuck and Gang:
Sometimes a lot is lost between the transmitter and the
receiver of emails. :-)
> I was trying to say that I thought the Mark III
> nosed over more than I was expecting when the
> stall broke compared to some other GA aircraft I fly.
I went from flying Army helicopters to Kolb Ultrastars and
Firestars, then after a few years got some time in a 152 in
order to get the Private Pilot checkride and license. So I
don't have but a little bit of time in "real" airplanes.
However, I have yet to find any model Kolb aircraft break
sharply, like a 152, when stalled intentionally. Most
noticeable sharp stalls are when we are too high and too
slow on landing. Then, they seem to fall right out of the
sky. :-)
Normally, Kolbs transition from flying to a mush and then to
a stall. This mush is a way to loose a lot of altitude
quick. A slight nudge of forward stick accomplishes a quick
recovery. I have seen two different Kolb Ultrastars mush
all the way to the ground, wings and fuselage level, with no
damage to pilot, but broken prop and landing gear on the
airplane. With little practice and training time in this
condition, a pilot can get into it and not realize it. For
all practicle purposes, one thinks they are flying normally,
straight and level, when in fact they are in a mush/stall
straight and level. The way to get out of it is push the
nose down, a difficult task near the ground. Just because
the plane is level, doesn't mean it is flying, even if the
pilot thinks it is.
> I would like to try some more stalls with another
> person on board.
Stalls in MK III with an adult passenger will be a little
more dramatic because of the added weight.
Seems most folks in Kolb aircraft get hurt on approach to
land, inadvertent stalls. I like to keep at least 10 mph
over the stall, based on solo or carrying a passenger.
Unlike many of you, I keep one eye cross checking the air
speed indicator during approach. To me, it is the best
method of keeping me above the stall speed.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
>I noticed the Fire Fly I flew at Lakeland this year was more
>prone to fall through the flare if I did not carry enough
>airspeed during landing. My MK III is big and fat. It
>carries through the flare much better, most likely because
>of added inertia.
The lighter the plane the greater the tendancy to float in ground effect
and to drop through if not flown down or flared too high.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Not everyone can be John Hauck. Spouses, kids, jobs, mortgages etc.,
> weigh all of us down to one degree or another, and that's why, I think, it's
> inspirational when a guy flies a Mark 3 to Alaska. Some of us might actually
> do a trip like that if we had the time, money, guts etc.; the rest of us just
> gape in awe.
>
>
> Russ Widman flew his Mark 3 from South Jersey Regional (KVAY) to
> Lakeland (KLAL) for Sun N' Fun, a total distance of over 1800 miles. In an
> airplane which averages 65 kts that is a major accomplishment.
> Mark R. Sellers
Mark and Gang:
Sometimes I have to be reminded how lucky I am. In January
1980, when I retired at the ripe old ago of 40, I decided to
make a go of it on what Uncle Sam paid me for Army
retirement, which wasn't much. If I remember correctly, I
took a 2/3 cut in pay the day I retired. To this day I have
survived without a real job. Money was why I got into
ultralights (Kolbs). Lack of, that is. :-) I was also
divorced a year or so before retirement. I would not be
able to fly all over creation if I had to worry about
getting back to a job on Monday morning. You guys that are
still in the job force, have children at home or in college,
have a wife, and mortgages, and still have to courage to
make long cross countries are heroes, not me. As a
reminder, a cross country is mearly a buncha short legs tied
together over a short period of time.
Had a chance to visit with Russ and his MK III at Lakeland.
Russ is a gifted craftsman with a head full of ideas and the
ability to produce the things he dreams up. If you haven't
seen the inovations he designed, built and installed on his
airplane, you have really missed something. Maybe he can
post some pics of these mods.
Anybody that cross countries, sleeps on FBO couches, and
tries to save time and money by "roughing it" is a man after
my own heart. That is the way I started out doing it in
1984, and that is the way I do it now, still driven by the
requirement to save time and money.
We had a lot of Kolbs XC into Lakeland this year. Wish mine
had been flying, it would have flown in also. :-) John
Russell, the Woods Brothers, and their buddy in his Sling
Shot. And do not forget Stan, the Possum. He flew in too.
Steven Green had planned to fly his new MK III from
Tennessee, but made a good decision not to because of
expected poor weather. He is one of those that had to get
back to work. He did trailer down and had fun flying in the
UL pattern during the week. By far, I think we had the best
looking, best built airplanes at S&F, even though everyone
wasn't recognized for his work. Well, some of us got
recognized. That is the Woods Brother did for their Sling
Shot and MK III. Congratulations.
Times awasting. Got to get back to fixing Miss P'fer.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> The lighter the plane the greater the tendancy to float in ground effect
> and to drop through if not flown down or flared too high.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
Jack and Gang:
Also, little 22' wings compared to 30' on Miss P'fer. I get
the same results with the factory Sling Shot (22' wings) as
the Fire Fly.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Kolbers and Kolbettes:
Just got off the phone from an eye-watering conversation with the good
people at Avemco ref the possibility of purchasing some 'showance (insurance
to those of you north of Atlanta) on the Fly...
They quoted me $225 a year for 50/50/50 liability-med payments... and 5% of
total insured value per annum for hull... for you liberal arts majors, that
works out to $600 a year if one were to need $12K for the FireFly... and, by
the way, they won't write coverage for the trailer it lives in at all....
Interestingly enough, they didn't even inquire about ratings held, time
logged, accident history, etc... One size seems to fit all. Their only
stipulation was that the machine be registered with the EAA UL program and
have an EAA number assigned.
Now my Bride routinely accuses me of, among other things, being somewhat out
of touch with the "real" world around me, and I reckon I probably am....
But 825 beans a year for for a skinny little liability policy and a paltry
12K coverage for my aluminum lawn furniture tube and rag machine seems a tad
steep to this saggy-bellied 'ol reprobate....At that rate, the
unavailability of reasonably priced insurance would certainly become a major
factor in the cost vs. benefit calculus were I an individual making a
decision about building one of these little airplanes... Assuming 100 hours
a year of use, insurance comes in at a whopping $8.25 an hour... Greater
than any other single operating cost item by my reckoning... I operated a
four place Stinson with MUCH higher liability and hull limits for less than
half this much annual premium.
Is everyone else out there paying this sort of freight for coverage? Are
there any better deals from reputable outfits? If so, where and who are
they, please? I know USUA got out of the business... I had originally
planned to go with them for the liability coverage...
Any info or ideas would be appreciated.... sigh....
Beauford, The Aluminum Butcher of Brandon, FL
FF 076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Beauford and Gang:
I dropped my hull insurance with Avemco a couple years prior
to my accident last summer because it was aprx $850 a year.
Luckily I had the foresite to renew with full coverage
before I left for Barrow. Coverage for a flight to Barrow
is aprx $2,000 because it is outside the normal realm of
Avemco coverage. I think they refer to it as "extended
area" covereage or some such. Had I not had the full
coverage last summer, I would have been in a terrible
financial bind considering the expense and time it took to
retrieve the MK III. BTW: I get no sponsorship for
insurance. Also no corporate sponsorship to retrieve the MK
III. Thank goodness some of you private citizens out there
sympathized and empathized with me and shared part of my
expenses. For that I am eternally grateful.
When I get back from Alaska I will have to make another
decision on insurance, reference hull coverage. As far as
liability, I will not fly without it. One never knows when
you might ding one of those really expensive airplanes at
the local airport, or fall out of the sky and destroy
someone's patio cover or deck. Maybe even one of those
Mercedes or Rolls Royces. :-)
> Just got off the phone from an eye-watering conversation with the good
> people at Avemco ref the possibility of purchasing some 'showance (insurance
> to those of you north of Atlanta) on the Fly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
Had a chance to visit with Russ and his MK III at Lakeland.
Russ is a gifted craftsman with a head full of ideas and the
ability to produce the things he dreams up. If you haven't
seen the inovations he designed, built and installed on his
airplane, you have really missed something. Maybe he can
post some pics of these mods.
Talked with Russ at SnF as well. I tell you there is a literal ton of
tricks on that bird. His machined "removable" dual stick with modular phone
plugs/jacks to make all the connections to the push to talk buttons come off
was sweet to say the least. He spent a lot of time making a "personal"
impression a an already good design. His has more "fit and finish" than
I've ever seen.
One idea he did was interesting to say the least. He uses a thin sheet of
lexan with some sort of (nylon?) doubler on it to cover the fuselage cage.
The "doublers" were just to strengthen where the lexan was attached with
some sort of lacing material. It made for a see thru cage. Very slick
indeed.
Jeremy "Very impressed" Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Trims |
Er, um - I meant stick :) Too much general aviation this month. Going for the
pilot's license.
-< PropellerHead >-
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 7:54 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Electric Trims
I'm trying to decide the best way t
> o install a simple electric trim system operating off a 2 axis switch on
> top of the yoke.
> -< PropellerHead
PropellerHead and Gang:
First, you must find the "yoke" in a Kolb aircraft. :-)
Take care and this is no yoke, :-)
john h
=
=
=
=
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
Good afternoon Kolbers!!
I will be heading up to Penna. tonight to visit my Mom and Sisters and
will be there thru Sunday. I will be around the Irwin area. Somewhere in
the back of my mind I'm thinking there is a Kolb being built around the town
of New Stanton. Is there?? If so, I would like to stop in and say Hi If I
get the time. This is in Western Pa., east of Pittsburg
Dennis
(Firestar)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Flight To Texas and Back to Florida |
Hi Gang:
The attached email is from Jim Holbrook. He gives a short
brief of his flight with Richard Lovell from Panama City,
Florida, to Junction, Texas, during the week of S&F. Jim
flies a Firestar and Richard flies a clipped wing
Challenger. However, Richard put a lot of cross country
hours on his Firestar before he purchased the Challenger.
Richard is a senior pilot, older than dirt.
For your information,
john h
"J.R. Holbrook" wrote:
>
> Doing pretty good here John, Richard and I flew out to Texas last week.
> Made it as far as Junction. We were trying to make it to El Paso but the
> weather had other ideas. Here is a short trip report...
>
> We had a pretty good time even if the weather didn't want us to. It was
> pretty foggy when we left Saturday morning and we actually turned back
> before we got to Crystal Village. When we got to the sod farm on our way
> back when decided to turn around again and actually made it to CV where we
> waited for the fog to lift. Even with the late start we still made it to
> Jennings, La (8.3hrs) where we taxied up the the Comfort Inn and spent the
> night. We flew to Lockhart, Tx the next day (5.3hrs) and on to Junction, Tx
> (2.0hrs) on Monday. We sat in Junction for the next two day waiting for the
> wind to ease up a little and for the UPS man to deliver the case of oil that
> Richard ordered to be sent there. We figured that if we went all of the way
> to El Paso we would need it to get home. But since we didn't make it past
> Junction we brought every bit of it home with us. You should have seen
> Richard's plane with Penzoil bottles stuck in every little nook and crany.
> We started going east on Wednesday at about 1400 and stopped in Brenham, Tx
> (3.3hrs) for the night. Thursdays leg was from Brenham, Tx to Jennings, Tx
> (3.5hrs) but we had to wait for the rain to let up and we didn't get under
> way until 1400 again. We made it all of the way home on Friday (6.4hrs) and
> enjoyed a tailwind most of the way even though it was a little bumpy. All
> together we flew almost 1900 miles and had about 30 hrs in the saddle.
>
> Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Thats me Dude!
Denny Rowe
724-845-1431
Near Leechburg PA Building a MK-3
About 35-40 minutes from Irwin, give me a ring.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Watson <djwatson(at)olg.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 1:37 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Penna
>
> Good afternoon Kolbers!!
> I will be heading up to Penna. tonight to visit my Mom and Sisters and
> will be there thru Sunday. I will be around the Irwin area. Somewhere in
> the back of my mind I'm thinking there is a Kolb being built around the
town
> of New Stanton. Is there?? If so, I would like to stop in and say Hi If
I
> get the time. This is in Western Pa., east of Pittsburg
>
> Dennis
> (Firestar)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
Kolb-types:
It appears that a 1975 Kolb Flyer is for sale in the ultralighthomepage.com
classifieds. It would be nice to see it fall into the hands of someone who
can really appreciate (preserve!) it.
Kip Laurie
Atlanta
2000 Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oleo Door Struts |
http://www.avweb.com/sponsors/boundary/access.html#spring
here is an aviation source of the hold open spring for doors hatches Etc.
It costs $65 because it is for aviation!!! they do put a wire down the
middle that prevents the spring from stretching, which makes it more stable
in the compression mode it is used in. go to the hardware store and get
yourself a spring and make it for under $5
topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Whata 75" <whata75(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Test, Do Not Respond |
I'm having trouble posting messages to the list. Just checking to see if it
is working.
Whata
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Instruments: Vacuum vs. Electric |
So, what about instruments? I was thinking all electric 14v. Any resons or ideas
for other types like vacuum versions? Next, besides a venturi, the source
of vacuum comes from where (pump)? Any advantages for redundancy, failsafe,
or otherwise in these methods?
-< PropellerHead >-
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb 19Gal Fuel Tank |
Kolb lists a 19 Gal molded fuel tank with sending probe. I saw one on a
boating site made of a black high desity polyethelene or something that was 18-19
gal. I'm wondering it it is the same one.
Anybody have the Kolb supplied tank? Can you tell me the size and mount
location (specific)? Do you like it?
-< PropellerHead >-
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuel tank contaminants |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Hi Guys,
I'm in the process of doing my spring annual and I was going to skip
taking out the main tank this year because in years past I never have
seen much of anything in there. I then thought about safety and decided I
would take the tank out anyway. I have to say that I'm grateful that I
did because I found some grass and flakes of paint at the bottom. The
flakes were large enough that it could have blocked the 1/4" outlet from
the tank. Even though nothing has turned up in years past, I think I will
continue this practice now that I have actually found something. I might
add, that I'm very cautious about getting any kind of contaminates in my
fuel. I had dedicated mixing tanks for my Firestar and I try to keep
things as clean as possible out in the field. I don't know how the grass
and paint flakes got in the tank other than it happened on a windy day.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb 19Gal Fuel Tank |
First I've heard of a 19 gal molded tank. Let's hear some more. Mine's 16
gal welded aluminum, and sits right behind the seats.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb 19Gal Fuel Tank
>
>
> Kolb lists a 19 Gal molded fuel tank with sending probe. I saw one on a
> boating site made of a black high desity polyethelene or something that w> as
18-19 gal. I'm wondering it it is the same one.
>
> Anybody have the Kolb supplied tank? Can you tell me the size and mount
> location (specific)? Do you like it?
>
> -< PropellerHead >-
Get your FREE download of MS> N Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank contaminants |
Is it possible to put a finger screen in the tank outlet ?? Could make a
Big Difference. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 1:29 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: fuel tank contaminants
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm in the process of doing my spring annual and I was going to skip
> taking out the main tank this year because in years past I never have
> seen much of anything in there. I then thought about safety and decided I
> would take the tank out anyway. I have to say that I'm grateful that I
> did because I found some grass and flakes of paint at the bottom. The
> flakes were large enough that it could have blocked the 1/4" outlet from
> the tank. Even though nothing has turned up in years past, I think I will
> continue this practice now that I have actually found something. I might
> add, that I'm very cautious about getting any kind of contaminates in my
> fuel. I had dedicated mixing tanks for my Firestar and I try to keep
> things as clean as possible out in the field. I don't know how the grass
> and paint flakes got in the tank other than it happened on a windy day.
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | rudder pedal distance |
Kolbers,
It has been since October that I've done any work on my firefly.
Ive been caught up with hunting , fishing & most recently, house repair .
Have been saving every nickel & dime so I can get my engine package. Im to
the point now , I dont have room in my garage to leave the wings up, so this
has hampered progress signifigantly. I've been reading all the post all
along. I just did not have anything worthwhile to say.Buuuuuuut now I have
a Question.
Has any one with a firefly or other model had a problem with his or
her legs reaching the rudder pedals? How did did you solve the problem.
What happens If you shorten the cables to where the pedals are leaning
towards the pilot. Has anyone done this. Will it cause any problems.
Thanks in advance for the advice,
Ed diebel in Houston building Firefly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank contaminants |
Sure, go to the auto paint store or anywhere that you can get parts for
Binks guns or similar, they sell little brass screens to go in the paint
guns. The screens are on a long tapered funnel shape, the sharp end is
closed, they are about an inch long and 3/8" OD if I remember correctly
(HA!) Solder the big open end to a short length of 1/4" copper tube and
stick it in the pick up end of your outlet line. The screens are very fine
mesh, ideal for a fuel line pick up filter finger screen. And, they are cheap.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Is it possible to put a finger screen in the tank outlet ?? Could make a
>Big Difference. Lar.
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
>.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 1:29 PM
>Subject: Kolb-List: fuel tank contaminants
>
>
>>
>> Hi Guys,
>>
>> I'm in the process of doing my spring annual and I was going to skip
>> taking out the main tank this year because in years past I never have
>> seen much of anything in there. I then thought about safety and decided I
>> would take the tank out anyway. I have to say that I'm grateful that I
>> did because I found some grass and flakes of paint at the bottom. The
>> flakes were large enough that it could have blocked the 1/4" outlet from
>> the tank. Even though nothing has turned up in years past, I think I will
>> continue this practice now that I have actually found something. I might
>> add, that I'm very cautious about getting any kind of contaminates in my
>> fuel. I had dedicated mixing tanks for my Firestar and I try to keep
>> things as clean as possible out in the field. I don't know how the grass
>> and paint flakes got in the tank other than it happened on a windy day.
>>
>> Ralph Burlingame
>> Original Firestar
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Berry <randybassman(at)icqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal distance |
I don't have the problem, but I would be somewhat concerned about your having adequate
rudder pedal travel if you shorten the cables very much.
Obviously, if you are having that problem, you must be fairly small in size. In
that case, you may want to consider the effect of your weight on your weight
and balance ... and perhaps move your seat forward?
A simple approach ... how about a simple cushion at your back??
Are you building at this point? Is moving the rudder pivots back an option ...
or perhaps putting some sort of extension on the pedals? I have seen arrangements
in some planes which have extensions with several slots and pins so they
can be adjusted incrementally. Maybe just a simple set of long bolts and nuts
to a piece of aluminum angle into holes in the rudder pedals. That would make
them adjustable incrementally. I feel sure with a little thought, you could
come up with something along that line.
Hope these ideas help.
Randy - '93 Kolb Firestar KXP
>
> Has any one with a firefly or other model had a problem with his or
> her legs reaching the rudder pedals? How did did you solve the problem.
> What happens If you shorten the cables to where the pedals are leaning
> towards the pilot. Has anyone done this. Will it cause any problems.
>
Sign up for ICQmail at http://www.icq.com/icqmail/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal distance |
Hi Ed and Gang,
Will Uribe probably still has a picture of Tim Loerke's (spelling)
Firestar which has the rudder pedals moved back to the next cross member. If
I remember the facts correctly he had this done at the factory while the
cage was being built so it may not be a option for you unless you or a
friend is a good welder. Also I don't know if the Firefly has a crossmember
in the same spot as the Firestar that the pedals could be moved to. Should
be able to install one if necessary. As far as the rudder pedals leaning
back this is exactly what I did on my Firestar. The reason I did it is
because I feel it gives me better control to manipulate the heel brakes and
use the rudder pedals at the same time. The only thing that limits the
rudder travel is the stops at the rudder post or bumping into the elevator
halves if there is no stop. My pedals lean back from vertical approx. 15 or
20 degrees toward the pilot seat.
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II #1162
Lucedale, Ms
>
> Kolbers,
> Has any one with a firefly or other model had a problem with his or
> her legs reaching the rudder pedals? How did did you solve the problem.
> What happens If you shorten the cables to where the pedals are leaning
> towards the pilot. Has anyone done this. Will it cause any problems.
>
>
> Thanks in advance for the advice,
> Ed diebel in Houston building Firefly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWilliJill(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal distance |
Ed asks...
>>Has any one with a firefly or other model had a problem with his or
>>her legs reaching the rudder pedals? How did you solve the problem
Ed
I haven't done this myself but have seen it done on several Kolbs where
there was a reach problem to the rudder pedals. The idea is to fashion wooden
block extensions and secure them to the face of the rudder pedals with
stainless hose clamps. Done properly they would appear to work very good. If
your manhood is not insulted, so to speak, by the use of extensions, you
might give this approach a try. You never know to what depths your flight
experience may penetrate into the wild blue yonder with these devices..
(grin)
Ron W
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: firefly rudder pedal distance |
I am short legged and long in trunk. I tried the cushion route to move my
hips forward four to five inches. But I found the front cross member was
too high. After an hour cross country, the pressure was too high on the
bottom side of my legs and although it was not that noticeable I could
hardly walk after getting out. I kept cutting foam and adjusting but I
could never come up with a system that corrected this problem. Then one
day I revisited the problem and I noticed that the foam cushion seat shape
approximate a true sling seat.
I removed the pop rivets that held the seat to the back cross member and
raised the seat back by shortening the lacing. It was wonderful. The
advantage is that the sling lets you slump and slide forward, and I have no
trouble reaching the rudder pedals. It is very light and comfortable. By
changing the seat back lacing length, you can adjust the angle so that you
feel no pressure on the bottom of your legs. I found the forward movement
of the CG was helpful too, and I got rid of three pounds of cushion. I
thought I had all the seat problems solved.
I found that the seat worked too well. When I taxi out to the runway, I
have to set my brakes, put my hands on the edges of the fuselage, lift my
self, and push with my feet to move my self back in the seat to be sure
that I can get the stick back against the stop. Also before landing, you
must get your self back in the seat so that you can flare the plane without
having to suck your stomach in. To solve this problem, I installed a cheek
board. It is a piece of slick surfaced wall panelling that is cut to seat
width. The length is determined by the distance you wish to be forward
toward the rudder pedals. The shorter the length the more forward. Clips
attached to each side and engaging the front seat cross member keep the
board from slipping forward. By shortening or lengthening the seat back
lacing you can adjust raise or lower the back of the cheek board so that
the back of your legs just barely touch the front cross member. When
properly adjusted the back of the cheek board will be lower than the front,
and so you will not continue to slide or to slump forward. If you do, on
can move back in the seat just by pushing with your feet.
I am incorporating getting electrical power to my gps and radio from each
side of the cheek board. When I get it done I will put up some pictures on
my web site at: http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
> Has any one with a firefly or other model had a problem with his or
>her legs reaching the rudder pedals? How did did you solve the problem.
>What happens If you shorten the cables to where the pedals are leaning
>towards the pilot. Has anyone done this. Will it cause any problems.
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 04/19/01 |
The New Kolb has a 19 gallon molded fiberglass fuel tank package with sender
and installation kit for the new Mark III Extra. It sits behind the seats
and weighs 14 lbs. cost $350.- I have one installed.
Hans van Alphen
Building Mark III Extra, BMW powered.
-----Original Message-----
>
>First I've heard of a 19 gal molded tank. Let's hear some more. Mine's 16
>gal welded aluminum, and sits right behind the seats.
>Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Singer <hp2693(at)cmuonline.net> |
I use a "VW" inline fuel filter. They are very inexpensive at any auto
store and work very well. I have never had a failure. It is inline
after my squeeze bulb and before the engine pump.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <PVolum(at)etsmiami.com> |
| Subject: | She's leaving us!! |
Dear Sue:
Although I never had the pleasure of actually meeting you personally,
through our email and phone conversations about AN Hardware, Gas Tanks and
such, I have come to think of you are a friend. I am very sad to hear of
your upcoming departure and sincerely hope that the move will be a good one
for you. I am equally sure the rest of the Kolb list members whom you have
helped with their Kolb needs over the years will feel as I do. You have a
lot of fans out there!
I hope you forgive me for copying this message to the Kolb list as it will
undoubtedly lead to a whole slew of fan mail for you, but... such is the
price for being popular.
Whoever replaces you has some pretty big boots to fill!
Thanks again for processing my most recent parts order and receive my very
best wishes to you and your family in Louisville.
Peter Volum
-----Original Message-----
From: Sue [mailto:sue(at)tnkolbaircraft.com]
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: expiration of card
thank you,
I want you to know cause it looks like you email my email account.
My last day is next Thur 26th, I will not longer be with Kolb. I am moving 2
1/2 hrs away to Louisville to be around family.
It was a pleasure dealing with you,
take care,
Sue
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal distance |
Yes I have a problem reaching the pedels on my FireFly. Sometimes I think
that on taxi I am pushing the brake pedels also. I have restricted movement
in my left ankle. I had to design a extension on the top of the left pedel
so I could mash it. I extended it about one and one-half inches.
Would also like input from others with this problem.
Jimmy
Firefly #35
Southeast, Georgia
JYL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firefly rudder pedal distance |
I really enjoyed your website. You've put a tremendous amount of thought &
effort into those small details, and the section on the vortex generators is
solid gold. Thanks. Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack & Louise Hart" <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 5:19 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: firefly rudder pedal distance
>
> I am short legged and long in trunk. I tried the cushion route to move my
> hips forward four to five inches. But I found the front cross member was
> too high. After an hour cross country, the pressure was too high on the
> bottom side of my legs and although it was not that noticeable I could
> hardly walk after getting out. I kept cutting foam and adjusting but I
> could never come up with a system that corrected this problem. Then one
> day I revisited the problem and I noticed that the foam cushion seat shape
> approximate a true sling seat.>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Yah, I use the inline filters too, before, and after, the fuel pumps. The
reason I asked about the finger filters, as someone else mentioned, is to
prevent something - such as a leaf - floating over the outlet hole inside
the tank, and shutting off fuel flow. Wouldn't take much, with a 1/4"
outlet. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Singer" <hp2693(at)cmuonline.net>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 7:37 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: fuel filter
>
> I use a "VW" inline fuel filter. They are very inexpensive at any auto
> store and work very well. I have never had a failure. It is inline
> after my squeeze bulb and before the engine pump.
> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Good Post Mark,
Last year EAA's Oshkosh theme was all about speed and I thought that
they darn well better be planning on an upcoming Osh theme about the
slow side of aviation, which so many recreational fliers really enjoy.
During my FS rebuild, I sometimes have thought about selling, or not
doing some of the mods I've dreamt about while waiting to fall asleep
at night ...all this to perhaps move to a bigger faster plane. But,
your post reinspires me to keep going with some of those mods and make
the FS exactly what *I want*, for the long term.
At least everyone on this list knows how fun it is to plunk along
60mph, 500' above the countryside on a pilotage XC. Its kinda cool to
think that we don't always have to have the biggest, fastest, most
expensive hardware to enjoy a really rewarding hobby.
-Ben Ransom
BTW -- almost, but not quite in contradiction, I turn on the money
faucet in about a week to start my PPL lessons (for the second time in
30 years).
--- Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> Not everyone can be John Hauck. Spouses, kids, jobs,
> mortgages etc.,
> weigh all of us down to one degree or another, and that's why, I
> think, it's
> inspirational when a guy flies a Mark 3 to Alaska. Some of us might
> actually
> do a trip like that if we had the time, money, guts etc.; the rest of
> us just
> gape in awe.
>
> The fact of the matter is the vast majority of airplanes in
> the Kolb
> category spend their lives within 10 miles of the airport on sunny
> weekend
> days. So when a Kolber takes a big cross country trip I think its
> worthy of
> note.
>
> Russ Widman flew his Mark 3 from South Jersey Regional (KVAY)
> to
> Lakeland (KLAL) for Sun N' Fun, a total distance of over 1800 miles.
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | Lexan question... |
I remember from long ago a discussion about drilling in lexan. How much
over-size do I need to drill the lexan to allow for contraction and
expansion so it doesn't spider crack around the rivets? Any special bits
and/or technique for drilling lexan to ensure I don't make a mess out of
this???
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
P.S. This is a link to the funniest virus warning you've ever seen...
http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/warning.doc
I kept it off the list to keep from taking up too much bandwidth...apologies
offered...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
I ordered the large tank with my Mark III X'tra kit. Sue said the tank was
recalled and is being redesigned. Still waiting for it.
Rody
"Kolb lists a 19 Gal molded fuel tank with sending probe. I saw one on a
boating site made of a black high desity polyethelene or something that was 18-19
gal. I'm wondering it it is the same one."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 04/19/01 |
Does it sit in the typical fuel area, or down low (in a new area than standard)
where you can put a removable "floor" over it for light cargo? I've been thinking
of putting the 19 Gal tank in with a vented fuel filler
pipe running to a standard aviation (flush fitting) fuel filler cap [ ala BigLar: http://www.biglar.homestead.com/SEATSFUELSYSTEM.html ]. I would soft mount the tank on elastomer mounts. Above it, I'd install a removable floor panel fastened to mounting rails with a formed enclosure around the fueling pipe. I'm figuring on enough room for 2 sleeping bags, a lightweight nylon tent, some basic supplies and a small tool and supply box for the plane. If I hinge the floor over the fuel tank and use locking
knobs to secure the floor, I could get into the tank area in a few seconds.
I also noticed this neat idea...
Some Kolb'er built his with extra stringers to change the shape of his fuselage.
In one of the pics, he had the fuel filler up at the top rearmost peak of the
cage under the prop hub. It looks like he put a custom tank in up high with
room below for cargo. I'm not sure of the location of
his tank, but the fill location idea was slick.
I'm also looking for other stowage ideas for the nose cone area of the MK3ex.
If I did load up for a fly in and needed to adjust CG, I could stow some items
up in the cone. I just would like to secure the stowed items so I don't cause
a potential problem with something jamming up the rudder pedals in flight.
-< PropellerHead >-
----- Original Message -----
From: Hans van Alphen
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 10:15 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 04/19/01
The New Kolb has a 19 gallon molded fiberglass fuel tank package with sender
and installation kit for the new Mark III Extra. It sits behind the seats
and weighs 14 lbs. cost $350.- I have one installed.
Hans van Alphen
Building Mark III Extra, BMW powered.
-----Original Message-----
>
>First I've heard of a 19 gal molded tank. Let's hear some more. Mine's 16
>gal welded aluminum, and sits right behind the seats.
>Lar.
=
=
=
=
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lexan question... |
I just take a sharpening stone and flat the cutting edges on a twist drill. When
drilling any plastics, you want to scrape more than slice through it. Otherwise,
the drill takes too deep a bite and you rip out a huge
jagged hole. Also, when cutting lexan, use a cutoff wheel to melt a cut
into the lexan. If you stay at a low enough speed, you won't totally clog the
grit in the wheel with a coating of plastic.
The holes I've done in the past for lexan covers on outdoor display cases were
1/64 oversize. They seemed to work good. My guideline was one bit size larger
than needed. Also, lightly deburr the edges of the hole both sides. It prevents
a starting point for a stress crack.
-< PropellerHead >-
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeremy Casey
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 2:34 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Lexan question...
I remember from long ago a discussion about drilling in lexan. How much
over-size do I need to drill the lexan to allow for contraction and
expansion so it doesn't spider crack around the rivets? Any special bits
and/or technique for drilling lexan to ensure I don't make a mess out of
this???
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
P.S. This is a link to the funniest virus warning you've ever seen...
http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/warning.doc
I kept it off the list to keep from taking up too much bandwidth...apologies
offered...
=
=
=
=
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Large fuel tank |
Darn! Ok, what about fabricating a tank. I've got a friend that does wonderful
heliarc aluminum work. What materials are suitable for a fuel tank without
worrying about corruption of the fuel by a reaction with the tank or degradation
of the tank by the fuel if it was made out of the wrong material.
How about: Stainless, Aluminum, Fiberglass/Carbon Fiber?
-< PropellerHead >-
----- Original Message -----
From: jrodebush
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 2:44 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Large fuel tank
I ordered the large tank with my Mark III X'tra kit. Sue said the tank was
recalled and is being redesigned. Still waiting for it.
Rody
m>
"Kolb lists a 19 Gal molded fuel tank with sending probe. I saw one on a
boating site made of a black high desity polyethelene or something that w
as 18-19 gal. I'm wondering it it is the same one."
=
=
=
=
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Large fuel tank |
http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/
Here's the guy with the wild fuel arrangement...
View into the back http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/Modfowdframe.jpg where you can see a rectangular tank and make out a hose to the top rear peak of the cage. Here: http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/covering.jpg is the reshaping stinger arrangement he uses (neat). And here: http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/Modrearframe.jpg is the neat fueling cap and streamlined rear cage.
Anybody know who this guy is? He does great work! I'd like to know where he's
from.
-< PropellerHead >-
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal distance |
> Has any one with a firefly or other model had a problem with his or
>her legs reaching the rudder pedals? How did did you solve the problem.
I was teaching a short guy to fly my Twinstar and I added pedal
extensions to the rudder pedal. They worked great and were simple.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | vortex generators |
Could someone give me the web site for the vortex generators posted
today. My delete key got in the way.
Jimmy
Firefly #35
Southeast, Georgia
JYL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Large fuel tank |
<<< No Message Collected >>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Large fuel tank |
>
>http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/
>
>
>Here's the guy with the wild fuel arrangement...
>View into the back http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/Modfowdframe.jpg wh>ere you can see a rectangular tank and make out a hose to the top rear pe>ak of the cage.
>
>Anybody know who this guy is? He does great work! I'd like to know wher>e he's
from.
Geeesh....I gotta frame this for the kids.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 04/19/01 |
Hmmm.............Thank You ! ! ! It's nice to see that someone actually
finds my stuff interesting. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 04/19/01
>
> Does it sit in the typical fuel area, or down low (in a new area than sta> ndard)
where you can put a removable "floor" over it for light cargo? I'> ve been
thinking of putting the 19 Gal tank in with a vented fuel filler
> pipe running to a standard aviation (flush fitting) fuel filler cap [ ala> BigLar: http://www.biglar.homestead.com/SEATSFUELSYSTEM.html ]. I would> soft mount the tank on elastomer mounts. Above it, I'd install a
remova=>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal distance |
I am 5'6 and when I ordered my Firestar =CE had Kolb move the pedals back 2
inches. IN hind site I probably would not do this again. I was afraid of not
being able to get full movement and extension on real bad cross wind landings
like I have had in some GA planes, but the kolb is so docile in real bad
crosswinds that it is really not a problem. Besides, now my legs are bent so
I have great flexibility for controlling the plane if I need to get full
rudder and aileron, but on long flights I kinda get cramped. I should have
left the pedals where they were. I
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lexan question... |
I used 1/8" bits in 2 holes to provide alignment, then drilled the rest
3/16" to allow for expansion. Used the large head aluminum fabric rivets to
hold it, cause I didn't want too much clamping pressure from the rivets.
Wanted the lexan to be able to move fairly easily, yet be solidly secured.
It's been sitting out in the Palm Springs summer sun, and winter rain for a
year now, and looks great. At 1st, I used a special plastic drill from A/C
Spruce, then one day was too lazy to go get it, and just used a standard
bit. No problem. I may be headed for trouble, cause I've gotten to the
point where I just grab the tin snips to cut the lexan, and any ol' bit to
drill it. That stuff is TOUGH ! ! ! No problems yet, and I DO de-burr &
countersink the holes slightly. Tried to open your virus
warning, and McAfee choked on it, and won't let me open it.
Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 11:28 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Lexan question...
>
> I remember from long ago a discussion about drilling in lexan. How much
> over-size do I need to drill the lexan to allow for contraction and
> expansion so it doesn't spider crack around the rivets? Any special bits
> and/or technique for drilling lexan to ensure I don't make a mess out of
> this???
>
> Jeremy Casey
> jrcasey(at)ldl.net
>
>
> P.S. This is a link to the funniest virus warning you've ever seen...
>
> http://jrcasey.home.mindspring.com/warning.doc
>
> I kept it off the list to keep from taking up too much
bandwidth...apologies
> offered...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
In a message dated 4/20/01 7:20:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jhankin(at)planters.net writes:
> Could someone give me the web site for the vortex generators posted
> today. My delete key got in the way.
>
>
Jimmy, I did not see any web site for VG's, but attached is the drawings
necessary to make & install my VG's. I have them on my FS I and they lowered
my stall by 5 mph.
Let me know your results.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
aluminum is one of the time-proven materials for gas tanks. 5052 series
should do just fine.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin
Schlosser
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Large fuel tank
Darn! Ok, what about fabricating a tank. I've got a friend that does wonderful
heliarc aluminum work. What materials are suitable for a fuel tank without
worrying about corruption of the fuel by a reaction with the tank or degradation
of the tank by the fuel if it was made out of the wrong material.
How about: Stainless, Aluminum, Fiberglass/Carbon Fiber?
-< PropellerHead >-
----- Original Message -----
From: jrodebush
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 2:44 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Large fuel tank
I ordered the large tank with my Mark III X'tra kit. Sue said the tank was
recalled and is being redesigned. Still waiting for it.
Rody
m>
"Kolb lists a 19 Gal molded fuel tank with sending probe. I saw one on a
boating site made of a black high desity polyethelene or something that w
as 18-19 gal. I'm wondering it it is the same one."
=
=
=
=
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | crad238(at)wirefire.com (J. Carl Radcliffe) |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal distance |
DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I solved that problem on my FF by putting a 3" thick piece of foam rubber
between my back and the seat back.
>
>
>
> Has any one with a firefly or other model had a problem with his or
> her legs reaching the rudder pedals? How did did you solve the problem.
> What happens If you shorten the cables to where the pedals are leaning
> towards the pilot. Has anyone done this. Will it cause any problems.
>
>
> Thanks in advance for the advice,
> Ed diebel in Houston building Firefly
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly.html
>
>Could someone give me the web site for the vortex generators posted
>today. My delete key got in the way.
>
>Jimmy
>Firefly #35
>Southeast, Georgia
>JYL
>
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
I like your Firefly, and I like your web page. Interesting and informative!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly.html
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 04/20/01Large fuel tank |
In a message dated 4/21/01 2:52:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Large fuel tank
>
> I designed my 24 gal. fuel tank out of cardboard and duct tape. Yea, I know
> what you're thinking. It will never work ! Took it to a shop, who welded
> it up with fittings for fill hose, vent, strainer and site guage. It also
> had baffles inside. So, help me out John H., It was the same material as
> yours. Was it 5052 H 32 aluminum? Soft and bendable, used for aircraft
> fuel systems. Your shop man MUST be familiar with this material as it
> burns through like paper. With a 1/2 lb.pressure test I had 14 leaks that
> I had to have touched up. I then took it to a local radiator shop who
> coated it inside with a lite weight material used for fuel tanks. Ok for 5
> yrs. now.
Safe Flying
Bob G Upstate N.Y.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erbonsell(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 5" Tube, Powdercoat, Fuel Tank |
Hi Friends,
The last time i sent in a comment i was looking for the 5" tubes for my new
wings. They are hard to come by. Like one post said, don't say they're for an
airplane. The first place i called refused to help me after asking what they
were for. EMJ Metals has 6063 T-6. They have a local address but ship
everything from chicago by truck. The rep said they're not crated just loaded
on the truck and delivered to you. What are the chances of them arriving
without dents or scratches? I own a nursery and told them they were for my
irrigation system. The cost isn't bad. $5.95 per ft. in 20 ' lenths. I'm
still looking around but may end up getting them from TNK.
I wanted to ask everyone about powdercoating. I'm thinking of using it for
the steel parts in the wings. The inboard wing rib, H section, drag strut
braces, ect. Is it better than paint? How thick is it? If it is too thick the
tubes wont slide over each other. Does anyone know anything about it?
Last but not least does anyone have a sorce for a nice 10 gallon fuel tank? I
want to replace the one i have.
Thanks to everyone in advance!
Ed Bonsell - Original Firestar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 5" Tube, Powdercoat, Fuel Tank |
Powder coating is thicker than paint, but either way, you'll have to clean
the part that slides inside another one. In my experience, powder coating
is nice, but............. I did my gull wing door frames with the white
epoxy primer that Jim & Dondi sell, and was very impressed. Sand blasted
them first. It's easier to do a repair, too, as well as a lot cheaper.
It's not glossy either, so for shiny, you'll need a topcoat of ......?? I
found out the hard way to watch overspray very carefully ! ! !
Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Erbonsell(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 7:20 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: 5" Tube, Powdercoat, Fuel Tank
>
> Hi Friends,
> The last time i sent in a comment i was looking for the 5" tubes for my
new
> wings. They are hard to come by. Like one post said, don't say they're for
an
> airplane. The first place i called refused to help me after asking what
they
> were for. EMJ Metals has 6063 T-6. They have a local address but ship
> everything from chicago by truck. The rep said they're not crated just
loaded
> on the truck and delivered to you. What are the chances of them arriving
> without dents or scratches? I own a nursery and told them they were for my
> irrigation system. The cost isn't bad. $5.95 per ft. in 20 ' lenths. I'm
> still looking around but may end up getting them from TNK.
>
> I wanted to ask everyone about powdercoating. I'm thinking of using it for
> the steel parts in the wings. The inboard wing rib, H section, drag strut
> braces, ect. Is it better than paint? How thick is it? If it is too thick
the
> tubes wont slide over each other. Does anyone know anything about it?
>
> Last but not least does anyone have a sorce for a nice 10 gallon fuel
tank? I
> want to replace the one i have.
> Thanks to everyone in advance!
> Ed Bonsell - Original Firestar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | 5" Tube, Powdercoat, Fuel Tank |
Hi Ed,
1) 1 in a million chance of arriving without damage (probably no chance of
it starting its trip without any damage)
2) PC is better than paint ... good stuff
3) The PCer can mask areas (like the outside of the steel ring) that are a
tight fit, and you can hand paint before assembly
4) Check the ag supply stores, etc for tanks
Good luck,
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Erbonsell(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 10:21 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: 5" Tube, Powdercoat, Fuel Tank
Hi Friends,
The last time i sent in a comment i was looking for the 5" tubes for my new
wings. They are hard to come by. Like one post said, don't say they're for
an
airplane. The first place i called refused to help me after asking what they
were for. EMJ Metals has 6063 T-6. They have a local address but ship
everything from chicago by truck. The rep said they're not crated just
loaded
on the truck and delivered to you. What are the chances of them arriving
without dents or scratches? I own a nursery and told them they were for my
irrigation system. The cost isn't bad. $5.95 per ft. in 20 ' lenths. I'm
still looking around but may end up getting them from TNK.
I wanted to ask everyone about powdercoating. I'm thinking of using it for
the steel parts in the wings. The inboard wing rib, H section, drag strut
braces, ect. Is it better than paint? How thick is it? If it is too thick
the
tubes wont slide over each other. Does anyone know anything about it?
Last but not least does anyone have a sorce for a nice 10 gallon fuel tank?
I
want to replace the one i have.
Thanks to everyone in advance!
Ed Bonsell - Original Firestar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 04/20/01Large fuel tank |
Was it 5052 H 32 aluminum? Soft and bendable, used for
aircraft
> > fuel systems.
> Bob G
Bob and Gang:
You got it right. Brother Jim fabricated my 25 gal
(useable) tank the same way. First made a cardboard
pattern/model of the tank, on the floor of the old Kolb Co
barn, Feb 1991. Then welded it up. Made of .050 5052
aluminum. It is also cross baffled. This is important,
because we don't want 100 lbs or more fuel deciding to go
left or right, fore or aft, when we are trying to take off
or land. We purchased aircraft filler neck fittings and
caps from Acft Spruce. Use an Atwood Marine flip top fuel
filler cap. Also a "finger strainer" sometimes called a
finger filter, which it isn't. I believe the finger
strainer's main purpose in life is to prevent the outlet, at
the lowest possible point on my tank, from getting blocked
by some kind of debris, normally bigger chunks of stuff. I
think Richard Pike mentioned using a paint gun screen to
install on the outlet pipe of your fuel system. Personally,
I like the normal aircraft finger strainer over the use of
the paint strainer because the paint strainer is made of
extremely fine wire mesh and is tiny in comparison to the
finger strainer. I would be concerned how much debris this
fine wire mesh screen could tolerate and keep passing fuel
through the lines to the normal filter, fuel pump, and carb.
My tank has been in the aircraft since it was new. Has not
developed any leaks or other problems. Not even cg
problems. When I fly solo, long XCs, I takeoff with 150 lbs
of fuel in the tank located behind the bulkhead, plus aprx
130 lbs of gear. I weigh in at 175 to 185, depending on
what I am wearing. Never had a cg problem in the MK III,
Firestar (18 gal fuel tank plus aprx 75 to 80 lbs of gear
behind the bulkhead), or Ultrastar which had an additional
go kart 1.75 gal reserve tank well behind the middle
bulkhead. I have flown the MK III with tail wheels as large
as a Maule 8" pneumatic, and am now equipped with a Maule 6"
solid tailwheel. My own observations indicate Kolb aircraft
have extremely wide cg ranges.
Kolbs are just plain good ole airplanes. :-)
john h
PS: In process of repairing left aileron. Just finished
drilling out 396 SS rivets from hinges.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terminaltown(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sites up and running |
cadet-list(at)matronics.com, cessna-list(at)matronics.com,
czech-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com, glasair-list(at)matronics.com,
homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com, kolb-list(at)matronics.com,
piper-list(at)matronics.com, pitts-list(at)matronics.com,
rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com,
rveurope-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com,
seaplane-list(at)matronics.com, skymaster-list(at)matronics.com,
smithmini-list(at)matronics.com, sonerai-list(at)matronics.com,
yak-list(at)matronics.com, zenith-list(at)matronics.com,
lancair-list(at)matronics.com
Hello Listers:
Terminal Town's Shopping Cart is up
and running!
Or http://www.terminaltown.com
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Large fuel tank |
I built two 14.5 US gallon fuel tanks (total usable = 29 gallons) 1993 and
have used them ever since with no leaks. A friend tig welded them from .50
aluminum. They replace the two Kolb tanks and are located as close to the
seats as possible. If anyone is interested I can scan a few pics and e-mail
them to you. There is no noticeable cg change with full or almost empty
tanks. I spent the best part of a winter's spare time building them so if
you want 29 gallons it will take a fair bit of time to complete them. Yes
they have baffles.
Kim Steiner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gdledbetter(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 5" Tube, Powdercoat, Fuel Tank |
Ed,
I made a new friend while I was flying out of Panacea, FL last February who
is building a Titan two place. He had a 10 gallon fuel tank with the kit
that would easily fit into a firefly. Its dimensions are 12" X 14" X 16"H.
Titan was at Sun N Fun and I ordred a tank from them while there for $46. It
arrived last week and I'm very pleased with its appearance.
The Titan rep told me that his supplier had quit making this unit and that he
had ordered all of his remaining inventory.
Titan is located in Geneva, OH and their phone is 440-466-0602
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati, OH
Firefly 00-2-00018, both canopies, big wheels and brakes, Ivo 2 blade
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder distance |
If I remember the facts correctly he had this done at the factory while the
cage was being built so it may not be a option for you unless you or a
friend is a good welder.
This made me LAUGH.... I read where someone had their cage "powder coated" and
three weeks later RUST was leaking from a weld that was "COLD LAP" ( only welded
one side, probly due to no " pre heat" ) I think that was "BIG
Lar " Any way , I just spent aprox. 30+ hrs. going over the welds on my
cage, alot of the weld had "craters" little holes left from lack of pre-heat
and the tubing Sucks the heat from the weld leaving a "crater" This is where
a crack would start. The other problem I had was "COLD LAP" I had to repair
over a dozen welds due to "LACK OF FUSION " .........Myself I use a craftsman
, propane, auto lite, torch, for pre heating small stuff like the cage material
, its quick and the weld flows much better, and after welding a pass it's best
to trigger another spot at the end of the pass to prevent a crater , Thats
with MIG.........If your using TIG its important to keep your post flow (ARGON
GAS ) held to the end of the weld.
Well, as they say " that's just my opinion" Gotta Fly...
Oh, by the way, I don't remember who talked about basting their cage in small
sections,painting it, and moving on to take another small section, but Thanks,
it's working great.... what I've also done is to take a "SCALER" ( It's a
AIR needle gun for taking the flux off of a weld) and "Peen" the area around the
tube joints Before sand blasting the area, It's working great, a nice smooth
flow from tube to weld.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 5" Tube, Powdercoat, Fuel Tank |
Ed
I cant tell you how thick they will apply it but powder coat is far
better than paint on still. With 3,000 hours salt water spray test you
cant tell a difference from just applied. Maybe better than galvanized.
Really tough stuff.
Hope this helps
Ed Diebel Firefly 90% ? to go
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder distance |
One of the guy's slipped pieces of heater hose over the square tubing
pedals.,two different sizes picking up about 3/4 inch. Can't remember how he
anchored the hose but you could rivet the first piece to the pedal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Lack of 'Showance.... |
Kolbers and Kolbees...
Judging from the resounding lack of response to the insurance caper I
launched (it evidently sank almost immediately, with the sole exception of
John Hauck's response) I conclude that no other pilgrim or pilgrimette on
the List seems interested in discussing the Kolb insurance situation...
Drawing upon my finely-tuned keen appreciation of the obvious, I am led to
deduce that either. ..
a. Nobody else thinks $825 a year is out of line for minimal Kolb UL
coverage, and 'ol Beauford oughta shut up and suck it up... or....
b. Per my suspicions, a substantial number of souls on the list are
flying "barefooted" (sans insurance) and would rather the entire topic would
quietly go away...
Lemme be a little more explicit; Anybody know where a person can get
cheaper insurance than Avemco?
Over?
Yer accomplice in cheap aviation,
Beauford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lack of 'Showance.... |
Well Beauford, I feel bad that I'm paying $1577.00 per year for insurance
with AVEMCO for my Mark III but I would fell worse if I had an "incident"
without it. I have not even been able to get a quote from another insurance
company and my "aircraft" is registered.
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 9:36 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Lack of 'Showance....
>
> Kolbers and Kolbees...
> Judging from the resounding lack of response to the insurance caper I
> launched (it evidently sank almost immediately, with the sole exception of
> John Hauck's response) I conclude that no other pilgrim or pilgrimette on
> the List seems interested in discussing the Kolb insurance situation...
>
>
> Drawing upon my finely-tuned keen appreciation of the obvious, I am led to
> deduce that either. ..
> a. Nobody else thinks $825 a year is out of line for minimal Kolb UL
> coverage, and 'ol Beauford oughta shut up and suck it up... or....
> b. Per my suspicions, a substantial number of souls on the list are
> flying "barefooted" (sans insurance) and would rather the entire topic
would
> quietly go away...
>
> Lemme be a little more explicit; Anybody know where a person can get
> cheaper insurance than Avemco?
> Over?
> Yer accomplice in cheap aviation,
> Beauford
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lexan & Fuel Tanks |
| From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
Acrylic is the real booger to drill & all, not polycarb. AC is brittle.
PC is tough & will take a lot.
If you want to weld up an aluminum tank, fine, but don't make it slab
sided. It will vibrate & crack the welds. This happened to a friend of
mine who landed in a pasture full of 3 million dollar thoroughbred race
horses while taking a gasoline shower, to the tune of about 10 gallons
worth. Make all the panels curved, or form some stiffening shapes in the
flat sides, or some similar thing.
Regards,
Larry the MicroMong guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lexan & Fuel Tanks |
You got that right............in a mis-guided attempt at economy, a couple
of years ago, I bought a sheet of 1/8" plexiglas, with the idea of making
clear templates for the lexan. Bad mistake, and not any kind of economy. I
think I cried about it at the time. You can't hardly Touch plexi, with out
breaking or cracking it, and even with the special drills, it usually chips.
Toldja I go about things the hard way, but I DO really appreciate lexan
now. Mis-guided Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 8:04 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Lexan & Fuel Tanks
>
> Acrylic is the real booger to drill & all, not polycarb. AC is brittle.
> PC is tough & will take a lot.
>
> If you want to weld up an aluminum tank, fine, but don't make it slab
> sided. It will vibrate & crack the welds. This happened to a friend of
> mine who landed in a pasture full of 3 million dollar thoroughbred race>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 5" Tube, Powdercoat, Fuel Tank |
Hi Ed and Gang,
I had all my metal parts powercoated. I didn't think about or didn't
think it would be a problem with things like the aileron counter balances
sliding up in the ailerons, drag strut fittings, elevator horns etc. I had
to sand off some of the powdercoat in the area that slides up in the alum
tube and can vouch it's tough stuff. I did have the special heat resistance
tape put inside the steel ring on the cage and all the threaded parts. The
biggest problem I had even though I had a color chart with a bunch of
different colors of yellow to pick from was I didn't get a good color match
and wound up repainting a lot of the steel parts with aerothane or polytone
including most of the cage. I didn't have actual examples to compare, only
color chips to look at. The good thing about that is you just have to scuff
the powdercoat. Unless I knew I was getting a good color match I would paint
them myself next time with aerothane. I did get a good deal on the
powdercoating. It was done by World Sporting Goods in Loxley Al. It's a big
company that builds and sells sporting equipment to retailers. They also
supply a lot of the pro football teams with blocking sleds etc. I had all
the metal parts coated excluding the alum. parts for about 200 dollars. I
also paid a guy 125 dollars to blast my cage. He restores old automobiles
and has plastic blasting media so there is no damage to the cage. Really has
to bear down on some spots to get it clean. I bead blasted all the small
metal parts at work. I epoxy primed and painted the alum tail boom,
streamline struts and landing gear with aerothane. Also don't count on the
Stits aerothane and polytone in the same color to match. I used club yellow
aerothane to paint my alum parts and nose cone with and used polytone on the
fabric. The club yellow polytone didn't come close to matching the club
yellow aerothane. I wound up mixing about 1.25 parts orange yellow to 1 part
club yellow polytone to get a close match to the club yellow aerothane. I
will probably use aerothane on the whole plane next time.
PS - Been having a blast flying my newly completed 1994 model plane.
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II #1162 503 DCDI, BRS, EIS and 16.9 hrs
> I wanted to ask everyone about powdercoating. I'm thinking of using it for
> the steel parts in the wings. The inboard wing rib, H section, drag strut
> braces, ect. Is it better than paint? How thick is it? If it is too thick
the
> tubes wont slide over each other. Does anyone know anything about it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal distance |
Group,
Thanks for all the input on rudder pedals. My only problem
now is which remedy to use. I think I will use some sort of hose to make the
pedals easier to reach. If that does'nt do it , I can always shorten the
cables slightly & as a last resort, use the ol foam pillow. Thanks again
for all the ideas.
Ed Diebel Firefly in progress in Houston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Some time back I had an ocean going sail boat the had lexan panels that
you bolted over the windows to keep a high wave from breaking through,
and swamping the boat. I had trouble with the lexan cracking when the
bolts were tightened up just the slightest amount. I solved this by
getting some rubber washers. The kind plumbers use in toilet tanks. I
placed a rubber washer against the lexan then a stainless fender washer
on top of the rubber, then just snugger the bolts using lock tite.
Never had another crack.
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lack of 'Showance.... |
I am paying $380.00 a year for not in motion coverage with $500,000 libility
on my FireStar II
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 8:36 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Lack of 'Showance....
>
> Kolbers and Kolbees...
> Judging from the resounding lack of response to the insurance caper I
> launched (it evidently sank almost immediately, with the sole exception of
> John Hauck's response) I conclude that no other pilgrim or pilgrimette on
> the List seems interested in discussing the Kolb insurance situation...
>
>
> Drawing upon my finely-tuned keen appreciation of the obvious, I am led to
> deduce that either. ..
> a. Nobody else thinks $825 a year is out of line for minimal Kolb UL
> coverage, and 'ol Beauford oughta shut up and suck it up... or....
> b. Per my suspicions, a substantial number of souls on the list are
> flying "barefooted" (sans insurance) and would rather the entire topic
would
> quietly go away...
>
> Lemme be a little more explicit; Anybody know where a person can get
> cheaper insurance than Avemco?
> Over?
> Yer accomplice in cheap aviation,
> Beauford
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 5" Tube, Powdercoat, Fuel Tank |
There seems to be a difference of opinion on powder coating. It is tough
but very difficult to make repairs to if you ding it. There is a company
near here that makes gyro kits. They powder coated rotor towers and cages.
Looked very nice but the mechanics did not like it at all. Some of the
tubes corroded under the powder coating and by the time it comes through, a
lot of damage can be done. They told me you can have a cracked weld under
the coating and never know it until it is to late as it will not show
through the coating. Different strokes.
Ron Payne
----- Original Message -----
From: <DAquaNut(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 5" Tube, Powdercoat, Fuel Tank
>
> Ed
>
> I cant tell you how thick they will apply it but powder coat is
far
> better than paint on still. With 3,000 hours salt water spray test you
> cant tell a difference from just applied. Maybe better than galvanized.
> Really tough stuff.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Ed Diebel Firefly 90% ? to go
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | rudder pedal distance |
One other element to factor into deciding which way to go. If your body
weight is lighter than typical, then you might want ot use the thick pad to
move your sitting position further forward to also help out an aft CG
situation. If not then pedal extensions may be the way to go.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
DAquaNut(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 2:41 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rudder pedal distance
Group,
Thanks for all the input on rudder pedals. My only problem
now is which remedy to use. I think I will use some sort of hose to make
the
pedals easier to reach. If that does'nt do it , I can always shorten the
cables slightly & as a last resort, use the ol foam pillow. Thanks again
for all the ideas.
Ed Diebel Firefly in progress in Houston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy & Carolyn" <TommyandCarolyn(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder pedal distance |
Ed,
Good morning. Tommy Dubroc from Oakdale, LA. Hope ya'll had a good Easter.
We just got back from Nashville, Easter with our daughter.
About this subject, I would suggest welding a short piece of tubing, say 1
1/2" 90 deg. underneath the pedal. Build a tee out of tubing,
slightly smaller diameter, with the top of the tee wide enough to support
your foot and side guards to keep your feet from slipping off.
Insert the trunk of the tee into the tube on the rudder pedal, drill a small
hole in both at the right distance, other holes for adjustment.
Pin or use small bolt & nut to hold in place. Saw this somewhere, should
work.
Just a reminder, our 3rd annual Oakdale fly-in is the last week-end of
September. The 28th through the 30th, promises to be the biggest yet. If
you're not doing anything next week-end, Chapter 614 out of
Alexandria is having their spring fly-in at Lake Bulow airport in Pine-
ville. Always very nice, lots of airplanes (mixed bag), nice camping and
picnic area, organized shopping trips for the ladies.
Well, gotta go, take care.
Tommy
-----Original Message-----
From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com <DAquaNut(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, April 22, 2001 2:44 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rudder pedal distance
>
>Group,
> Thanks for all the input on rudder pedals. My only problem
>now is which remedy to use. I think I will use some sort of hose to make
the
>pedals easier to reach. If that does'nt do it , I can always shorten the
>cables slightly & as a last resort, use the ol foam pillow. Thanks again
>for all the ideas.
>
> Ed Diebel Firefly in progress in Houston
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Lack of 'Showance.... |
It makes a lot of difference whether you have Avemco's insurance for
"in-motion" or "not-in-motion." The one covers you 24 hours a day for
anything, and the other covers you until you start your takeoff roll, and
then your hull insurance drops off until you complete your landing roll, at
which point it resumes. I opted for "not-in-motion", which saves me a
bundle. Of course, it also presumes that I don't mess up...(HA!) (LOL)
(LOL,ROTF)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolbers and Kolbees...
>Judging from the resounding lack of response to the insurance caper I
>launched (it evidently sank almost immediately, with the sole exception of
>John Hauck's response) I conclude that no other pilgrim or pilgrimette on
>the List seems interested in discussing the Kolb insurance situation...
>
>
>Drawing upon my finely-tuned keen appreciation of the obvious, I am led to
>deduce that either. ..
> a. Nobody else thinks $825 a year is out of line for minimal Kolb UL
>coverage, and 'ol Beauford oughta shut up and suck it up... or....
> b. Per my suspicions, a substantial number of souls on the list are
>flying "barefooted" (sans insurance) and would rather the entire topic would
>quietly go away...
>
>Lemme be a little more explicit; Anybody know where a person can get
>cheaper insurance than Avemco?
>Over?
>Yer accomplice in cheap aviation,
>Beauford
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lack of 'Showance.... |
Richard and Gang,
Does the plane have to be "N" numbered and/or does the pilot have to be
licensed? If the answer is no, is the price different depending on these
factors? Particularly interested in the "not-in-motion" coverage.
Thanks,
John Cooley
Firestar II #1162 503 DCDI, EIS, Brs, 16.9 hrs
Lucedale, Ms.
>
> It makes a lot of difference whether you have Avemco's insurance for
> "in-motion" or "not-in-motion." The one covers you 24 hours a day for
> anything, and the other covers you until you start your takeoff roll, and
> then your hull insurance drops off until you complete your landing roll,
at
> which point it resumes. I opted for "not-in-motion", which saves me a
> bundle. Of course, it also presumes that I don't mess up...(HA!) (LOL)
> (LOL,ROTF)
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powdercoating, Steel Prep |
I used to think powder coating was a no brainer yes decision -- that
coming from the large amount of effort required to prep all the steel
if you are planning on spraying (been there done that). But I've
changed my mind. If one does a good job prepping, I can't see that
epoxy spraying is at all inadequate, and it then allows repairs and
modifications down the road. I would suggest having the cage bead
blasted to minimize the prep time, but then spray it myself. I also
seem to recall rumors of powder coating adding at least a few pounds --
anyone know real data there?
On bead blasting, I've found that the $40 blaster I got at Home Despot
is not too bad. It is outstanding for quickly cleaning up small
pieces, or difficult areas such as frame clusters, but would be
considered undersized for a whole cage. A combo of this home
blaster, plus ScotchBrite pads on the easy to access straight sections
would be the best bet IMO. I've found #60 mesh sand to be the best
media for steel -- and it is cheap ($6/100lbs) and clean enf that doing
it over the grass and not saving the media is simple. Eye goggles that
seal to your face, and washing your whole head after blasting is
required to avoid getting grit in your eyes even 8 hours later.
-Ben Ransom
--- Erbonsell(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Friends,
> The last time i sent in a comment i was looking for the 5" tubes for
> my new
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 5" Tube, Powdercoat, Fuel Tank |
Ron, This list is for advice ,learning & help. Your comment about the
crack hiding ability of the powder coat process is well taken And is one I
never thought of but is one that should be considered when choosing.
Ed Diebel ( Hou)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Singer <hp2693(at)cmuonline.net> |
I don't know if they will insure non-certificated aircraft (ultralights)
but I had my Aeronca insured with Aircraft Insurance Agency out of
Lancaster, Tx. (1-800-232-1953). They beat AVEMCO and had better
coverage. I had it insured at a value of $13,000 with $100 deductible
not in motion and $500 in motion, hull and liability and cost me
$615/year. You might want to give them a call.
Bob (slingshot prospect)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Hey out there, now ya got my little brain back in motion. Currently
welding my mkIII cage (measure twice, weld once, whack with BMFH)
I was sorta considering an epoxy. Any happy and/or unhappy experiences
and recommendations by brand name will be gratefully considered.
Bob B., upstate NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Lack of 'Showance.... |
I don't know. Call them?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Richard and Gang,
> Does the plane have to be "N" numbered and/or does the pilot have to be
>licensed? If the answer is no, is the price different depending on these
>factors? Particularly interested in the "not-in-motion" coverage.
>
>Thanks,
>John Cooley
>Firestar II #1162 503 DCDI, EIS, Brs, 16.9 hrs
>Lucedale, Ms.
>
>
>>
>> It makes a lot of difference whether you have Avemco's insurance for
>> "in-motion" or "not-in-motion." The one covers you 24 hours a day for
>> anything, and the other covers you until you start your takeoff roll, and
>> then your hull insurance drops off until you complete your landing roll,
>at
>> which point it resumes. I opted for "not-in-motion", which saves me a
>> bundle. Of course, it also presumes that I don't mess up...(HA!) (LOL)
>> (LOL,ROTF)
>> Richard Pike
>> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
I scrubbed my cage down with the Stits metal prep solution, and then went
over it with Scotch Brite pads, and then brushed on Randolph epoxy. Takes
two coats to cover well, but uses very little paint, and can be easily
sanded off to repair, or just weld over it, it burns off, and then recover
it with new. It is an excellent seal to keep the rust off, just glom it on
with a brush as smooth as you can, and then go over it with 220 wet or dry
(dry), that will smooth it out easily, and then top coat it. Stits epoxy
may also brush on easily, and sand smooth easily, but have not tried it, so
no opinion. But brushing the cage, and all the other little steel parts
with epoxy is very easy.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hey out there, now ya got my little brain back in motion. Currently
>welding my mkIII cage (measure twice, weld once, whack with BMFH)
>I was sorta considering an epoxy. Any happy and/or unhappy experiences
>and recommendations by brand name will be gratefully considered.
>Bob B., upstate NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Well, you got my recommendation the other day. Powder coat is good, but as
long as I have access to a sand/bead blaster, that white epoxy primer that
Jim & Dondi sell is great stuff. Without the 'blaster, prep would be a
nightmare. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "slyck" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 3:35 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: cage prep
>
> Hey out there, now ya got my little brain back in motion. Currently
> welding my mkIII cage (measure twice, weld once, whack with BMFH)
> I was sorta considering an epoxy. Any happy and/or unhappy experiences
> and recommendations by brand name will be gratefully considered.
> Bob B., upstate NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 04/22/01Powder coating |
Ron, I somewhat agree with you in the thinking that you don't really see
what is going on to the metal underneath the powder coating. I have a 1946
Wheeler (trawler) and when I went to an old timer who owns a ship building
co. in Albany N.Y., I asked him what I should use to cover the boards on the
inside bottom of the boat. He suggested using a combiation of three oils.
The reason being, you can see what is going on through the oil and if I
painted everything, wood could be going bad and you would never know it.
Safe flying
Bob G upstate ny
Getting my MK3 ready for another season. Still not used to the difference
with a heavy passenger. Wt. & bal. is fine but the stick is way back on take
off and landings. I'm sure it's me just not used to the difference, but I'll
try reflexing the flaps a few degrees and let the list know of the outcome
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Hi all
Last fall I managed to bend one of my aluminum gear legs just a little. My
wife and I were trying to find Eugene Zimmerman's place near E-town Pa. I
had been told by someone else that his grass strip was a little bit of a
short field. Anyway, one of Eugene's sons was flying and led us to their
strip. From the air it looked long enough so I decided to give it a try.
It was a perfect day, very little wind so I was able to drag it in at a very
slow speed. What I didn't realize from the air was that the first part of
the strip was up hill. Since my airspeed was slow I didn't have enough
momentum to flair uphill, so I bent my left gear just a little. It wasn't
much, I was able to keep flying last fall, however I decided to replace them
this spring with the new spring steel ones from the New Kolb Co. I've made
six landings on the new gear and really like them and the bumps on the taxi
ways are much smoother. So I have a straight aluminum leg and a slightly
bent one with the axle adaptors and steel axle for the matco brakes if
someone can use them. Make me an offer. Kolb gets $53.00 per leg for new
ones. BTW, I used less the 25% of the available landing distance that day.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powdercoating, Steel Prep |
I saw a response on this topic before, also metioning scotchbrite pads.
I've used them many time in the past along with fine emery paper strips,
etc. One thing I noticed after prepping a metal landing gear for a large RC model
is these types of media (except for sandblasting in most cases) leave behind
some residue of some sort that sometimes causes paint to later peel away.
I suspect it is some sort of oil residue. It affected my epoxy painted landing
gear where after a month of use, places started peeling. I took all the normal
precautions with vinyl gloves.
After talking to my father, he reccommended that I wipe down prepped metal surfaces
with acetone, epoxy paint thinner, or denatured alcohol depending on the
job. After that suggestion, painted metal work I've done has
lasted longer.
I wonder if I can have the cage blasted and then clean and spray it myself. Who
could blast the whole cage for me when I get to that stage? What type of listing
do I look for in the yellow pages?
-< PropellerHead >-
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Ransom
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 12:18 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Powdercoating, Steel Prep
I used to think powder coating was a no brainer yes decision -- that
coming from the large amount of effort required to prep all the steel
if you are planning on spraying (been there done that). But I've
changed my mind. If one does a good job prepping, I can't see that
epoxy spraying is at all inadequate, and it then allows repairs and
modifications down the road. I would suggest having the cage bead
blasted to minimize the prep time, but then spray it myself. I also
seem to recall rumors of powder coating adding at least a few pounds --
anyone know real data there?
On bead blasting, I've found that the $40 blaster I got at Home Despot
is not too bad. It is outstanding for quickly cleaning up small
pieces, or difficult areas such as frame clusters, but would be
considered undersized for a whole cage. A combo of this home
blaster, plus ScotchBrite pads on the easy to access straight sections
would be the best bet IMO. I've found #60 mesh sand to be the best
media for steel -- and it is cheap ($6/100lbs) and clean enf that doing
it over the grass and not saving the media is simple. Eye goggles that
seal to your face, and washing your whole head after blasting is
required to avoid getting grit in your eyes even 8 hours later.
-Ben Ransom
--- Erbonsell(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Friends,
> The last time i sent in a comment i was looking for the 5" tubes for
> my new
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
=
=
=
=
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Fellow thinner sniffers, if you do "blast" the cage iron, I would highly
recommend that you specify glass bead media. It's more expensive
and places like truck body shops, etc. will give you a hard time.
---But, this stuff just peens the surface and doesn't remove any stock.
Since Kolb has already used fairly light tubes, this is one place
you don't need to further lighten. (now, the see thru Kolb!)
Engine shops regularly use beads to clean engine parts, pistons, etc.
To prep for painting, most solvents will reduce the oils somewhat,
but to REALLY get things dry pick up a jug of refrigeration
condenser coil detergent. --very harsh stuff, so wear gloves or
your hands will crack.Rinse with demineralized or rain water.
Being budget-minded I think I will just use fine steel wool.
Gotta use something because those tubes are shiney smooth.
Bob B. --back to the old oxy-acetylene this afternoon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Terry and list,
Is it possible to use the MK lll legs on a Firestar 2? I'm in need of a pair
of legs for my rebuild on my FS.
Geoff Thistlethwaite
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 9:24 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: MK III gear
>
> Hi all
>
> Last fall I managed to bend one of my aluminum gear legs just a little.
My
> wife and I were trying to find Eugene Zimmerman's place near E-town Pa. I
> had been told by someone else that his grass strip was a little bit of a
> short field. Anyway, one of Eugene's sons was flying and led us to their
> strip. From the air it looked long enough so I decided to give it a try.
> It was a perfect day, very little wind so I was able to drag it in at a
very
> slow speed. What I didn't realize from the air was that the first part of
> the strip was up hill. Since my airspeed was slow I didn't have enough
> momentum to flair uphill, so I bent my left gear just a little. It wasn't
> much, I was able to keep flying last fall, however I decided to replace
them
> this spring with the new spring steel ones from the New Kolb Co. I've
made
> six landings on the new gear and really like them and the bumps on the
taxi
> ways are much smoother. So I have a straight aluminum leg and a slightly
> bent one with the axle adaptors and steel axle for the matco brakes if
> someone can use them. Make me an offer. Kolb gets $53.00 per leg for new
> ones. BTW, I used less the 25% of the available landing distance that
day.
>
> Terry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Powdercoating, Steel Prep |
I just looked in the yellow pages under "sandblasting," and there were
several, including the powder coating shop I used, which is another
thought...........call the powder coating shops in your area, and ask. Re -
the prep work before painting.............hand polishing the tubes will work
fine, and is fairly easy, but getting down into the little crevises and
ridges of the welds is nearly impossible. 'Blasting is far and away the
easier, and does a better job, but the point about 'bead' blasting was well
taken. I used beads on my door frames, and they worked very well, but when
I tried to clean up some old parts I'd scavenged from a junkyard, the beads
had tough going on heavy rust, tho' that shouldn't be a factor on our
carefully cared for cages, now should it ?? Further
thoughts..............when I had the powder coating done, I looked over the
'blasting area of his shop, and there were 'drifts' of sand over about a 20'
x 20' area. He told me that he can only use the sand 2 or 3 times, before
it breaks down too fine for his needs. This is silica sand, not beads.
Told me to bring some buckets, and help myself, so I went back the next day,
and cleaned up his area for him, and took home 25 gal. of silica
sand............free. Prob'ly more than a lifetime supply, for my needs.
It's finer, and not as sharp, so, I hoped, not as harsh, either. Gave it a
try on those heavily rusted pieces, and it worked like magic. I'm not sure
about removing too much metal, but I didn't notice any evidence of erosion.
Possibly, Probably, (??) this could be due to the smaller, lighter blaster I
used, with less pressure, ( about 70-80 working psi, where he uses 130
psi ), and also the finer, used sand. Whatever, it did a beautiful job.
OK, now for a side story..........groan...........about 35 or so years ago,
I wanted to build a small window aquarium for tropical fish, and put it in
the window. At the time, Arrowhead was using green or blue tinted glass
bottles for their drinking water. They had a large, square ribbed pattern
on them, and I thought they'd work just right. Tried grinding holes in the
shoulder, for access, but they kept cracking, and the crack would go all the
way around. So, hit on the idea of sand, from somewhere. Sand blasting
shop filled the bottle with sand, to protect the inside, and had at it.
Took just a few minutes to cut a hole in the shoulder, next to the neck,
large enuf to stick my big fist thru. Wrapped the shoulder in aluminum foil
to hide the hole, and act as a reflector, and put a small light in the neck.
Made a beautiful aquarium that I used for years, and the point pertaining to
the above, is that Yes.............you can erode your components if you hit
them too hard. Go gently, and use common sense. If you have your cage done
commercially, stand there and watch. Inventive Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Powdercoating, Steel Prep
>
> I saw a response on this topic before, also metioning scotchbrite pads.
> I've used them many time in the past along with fine emery paper strips,
> etc. One thing I noticed after prepping a metal landing gear for a large> RC
model is these types of media (except for sandblasting in most cases)> leave
behind some residue of some sort that sometimes causes paint to
la=>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cage blasting |
I did a lot of research on blasting before I touched my cage. Didn't want
to blow away any metal. I finally settled on baking soda. Not the kind you
get from the grocery store in 1 lb boxes. I got a 50 lb bag from my local
industrial supply. It is intended for blasting delicate structures. It
will not hurt the metal but will remove rust and crud. It did have the name
Arm & Hammer on the bag. I bought a small blasting unit from the local TSC
store for about $60.00. Everything worked great.
Ron Payne
----- Original Message -----
From: "slyck" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 11:22 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: cage blasting
>
> Fellow thinner sniffers, if you do "blast" the cage iron, I would highly
>
> recommend that you specify glass bead media. It's more expensive
> and places like truck body shops, etc. will give you a hard time.
> ---But, this stuff just peens the surface and doesn't remove any stock.
> Since Kolb has already used fairly light tubes, this is one place
> you don't need to further lighten. (now, the see thru Kolb!)
> Engine shops regularly use beads to clean engine parts, pistons, etc.
> To prep for painting, most solvents will reduce the oils somewhat,
> but to REALLY get things dry pick up a jug of refrigeration
> condenser coil detergent. --very harsh stuff, so wear gloves or
> your hands will crack.Rinse with demineralized or rain water.
> Being budget-minded I think I will just use fine steel wool.
> Gotta use something because those tubes are shiney smooth.
> Bob B. --back to the old oxy-acetylene this afternoon.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Geoff
I can't tell you if they will fit a Firestar but here is a basic
description. Total length 28.5" Diameter is 1.375 at the big end. They
start to taper about 14.5" from end. They taper down to aprox .9920. The
.9920 diameter length is about 2.25" long at the small end. Hope this makes
sense.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
Terry and list,
Is it possible to use the MK lll legs on a Firestar 2? I'm in need of a pair
of legs for my rebuild on my FS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
I took my Twinstar out for its first hop of the season. Had a little brain
fart and tried getting the engine to spin up faster using the trim control
instead of throttle. Got too used to the center throttle in the MK3. After
I figured out why the throttle didn't work (the nut on the end of the
throttle lever... Me) It ran great (normal for a Hirth), started up on the
3rd pull. Now to drain the gas and clean the carb for some serious
aviating. As I washed it up I noticed that all my cage prep 10 years ago is
showing its age. I am noticing some slight brown rust on the flat black
cage. Time to get the steel wool out again and a brush and my rust paint
and get it ready for the next 10 years. Mine is not a show plane but to
really tell the difference in my brush painted cage you have to get right
up to and look hard. Good enough for me and just like me its cheap.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | INSTALLING NEW LANDING GEAR |
When installing new landing gear, what is the best way of lining the
wheel and axle bracket up where the wheel will track straight??
I have a new landing gear set that came with the FireFly. Was bought by
previous owner.
My landing gear has been straightned twice. We use a hydralic press to
bend them back straight. You have to bend them past straight a lot and
them release press slow.
Doing much better with landings. Using more air speed and doing wheel
landings instead of three point landings. Closing throttle just as
wheels are about to touch down.
Jimmy
Firefly #35
Southeast, Georgia
JYL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
I asked, Sue said no. I have a FS II with the old gear legs that do not go
into the fuse tube as far as the new ones. What is the cost of the new legs
and as I'll be operating the FS II heavy should I change now or when/if I
bend the legs on the plane?
Sam Cox
FS II unknown #
Saginaw, TX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MK III gear
>
> Terry and list,
> Is it possible to use the MK lll legs on a Firestar 2? I'm in need of a
pair
> of legs for my rebuild on my FS.
>
> Geoff Thistlethwaite
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
> To: "Kolb Aircraft (E-mail)"
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 9:24 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: MK III gear
>
>
> >
> > Hi all
> >
> > Last fall I managed to bend one of my aluminum gear legs just a little.
> My
> > wife and I were trying to find Eugene Zimmerman's place near E-town Pa.
I
> > had been told by someone else that his grass strip was a little bit of a
> > short field. Anyway, one of Eugene's sons was flying and led us to
their
> > strip. From the air it looked long enough so I decided to give it a
try.
> > It was a perfect day, very little wind so I was able to drag it in at a
> very
> > slow speed. What I didn't realize from the air was that the first part
of
> > the strip was up hill. Since my airspeed was slow I didn't have enough
> > momentum to flair uphill, so I bent my left gear just a little. It
wasn't
> > much, I was able to keep flying last fall, however I decided to replace
> them
> > this spring with the new spring steel ones from the New Kolb Co. I've
> made
> > six landings on the new gear and really like them and the bumps on the
> taxi
> > ways are much smoother. So I have a straight aluminum leg and a
slightly
> > bent one with the axle adaptors and steel axle for the matco brakes if
> > someone can use them. Make me an offer. Kolb gets $53.00 per leg for
new
> > ones. BTW, I used less the 25% of the available landing distance that
> day.
> >
> > Terry
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | 66-32 Culver prop |
Kolbers,
I am thinking of buying Dales 66-32 Culver prop for my 503sc powered
Sport Parasol.
This prop is off a 447 and I am concerned that it might not be enough
bite for a 503. I currently am using a 66-34 Ritz blade and have used a
60-40 Culver in the past. Both of these blades turn 6200rpm full
throttle level flight on my bird.
My question is, Has anyone run a 60- 32 Culver on a 503? How much rpm
increase should I expect by dropping two inches in pitch?
Thanks,
Denny
PS: Yes I already asked Culver, but since Dave is in the middle of
trying to find a buyer for the company, he has not yet responded to my
e-mails, and the phone is disconnected.
Anyone here interested in taking over one of the best prop companys
around?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Evan Kraus <ekraus(at)mediaone.net> |
I hate to bother youall BUT>
OK here I sit trying to decide which aircraft to
build.
I have 12 hours in a 172 and several hours in other
aircraft.
Plus lots of Glider Time but no ticket for either
Power or Glider.
The problem is it looks like I may not be able to get
a medical.
So here is the question.
Do I need a license to fly a Firestar ?
Or do I have to fly a Firefly.
What about a 2 place trainer ?
What about insurance ?
Where the hell can I find info about these questions.
Certainly the REGS are either GREEK or not meant to be
understood.
If any one can help! So I can take the plunge.
Thanks
Evan
You can reply to ekraus(at)yahoo.com if you don't want
anyone else to read it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
Spend some time thinking about what you want from flying and if you have a
place to fly from. Is there an airport or field you can use--do you have
a vehicle to pull a trailer? Do you have a garage large enough to store or
build? When would you fly? Where to? How often? How do you feel
about turbulence? Are you a patient crafts worker? Are there others
around that can help and be informative or supportive? Do you have the
finances to build and maintain a plane?
Dale Seitzer
Original Firestar, St. Paul MN
-----Original Message-----
From: Evan Kraus
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 8:26 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Questions
I hate to bother youall BUT>
OK here I sit trying to decide which aircraft to
build.
I have 12 hours in a 172 and several hours in other
aircraft.
Plus lots of Glider Time but no ticket for either
Power or Glider.
The problem is it looks like I may not be able to get
a medical.
So here is the question.
Do I need a license to fly a Firestar ?
Or do I have to fly a Firefly.
What about a 2 place trainer ?
What about insurance ?
Where the hell can I find info about these questions.
Certainly the REGS are either GREEK or not meant to be
understood.
If any one can help! So I can take the plunge.
Thanks
Evan
You can reply to ekraus(at)yahoo.com if you don't want
anyone else to read it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Lets see. What little I know may or may not be of help. If you build the
FireStar as a single place aircraft with only one 5 gallon tank and pay
attention to weight you can get it in as an ultralite. You cannot use the
503 engine but could use the 447. You could then fly this without a
license. If the sport pilot thing is adopted next year, you would not need
to pass a medical. A valid drivers license is all you will need. You could
then fly several light aircraft including the FireStar with a 503 engine.
Also carry a passenger. The sport pilot regs will solve a lot of problems
for people that want to fly without going through the private pilot training
and expense. You can get liability insurance on an ultralite. I am not
sure about hull coverage. If the sport pilot rules are adopted, and it
looks like they will be, it is my understanding that two place ultralite
trainers will have to be registered as light aircraft. I may be wrong about
this. I do know that you will be able to by a completed FireStar from Kolb
ready to fly. The 50% rule will not apply. You could get a complete run
down on any of your questions from the EAA. I am just now building my first
home built, a FireStar, but I have been a member of the EAA for many years.
It is well worth the money.
Ron Payne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan Kraus" <ekraus(at)mediaone.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 8:26 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Questions
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Verner Engine Pictures |
Hello, fellow Kolbers -
Over the past year, you have heard me talk about the Verner motor that I am
planning to install in my Mark-3. I took delivery of this engine in
December, and just this weekend, I mounted it on my aircraft. Will Uribe
was gracious enough to allow me to post a few pictures on his website for
the List to see, if you are interested. Will said he will leave them on his
site only for a couple of weeks due to webspace limitations. See them at:
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner1.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner2.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner3.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner4.jpg
>
> Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-1400, PowerFin-72, 95% finished in
Cedar Crest, NM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | Windsock question |
I am finishing up a 1400' runway in my backyard and need to get a windsock.
What are you guys using and how much did it set you back? How easy to put
up?
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windsock question |
> I am finishing up a 1400' runway in my backyard and need to get a windsock.
> What are you guys using and how much did it set you back? How easy to put
> up?
>
> Jeremy Casey
Jeremy and Gang:
I started out with a little ultralight type windsock, when I
first opened my 600 ft grass strip. It worked OK, but did
not last long, and sometimes would hang up. I went through
several of these until I got serious and bought a
professional windsock and mount.
When I expanded the strip to 750 feet, I also expanded the
size of my windsock. I now use a 18 inch diameter X 8 ft
sock mounted on a ball bearing equipped frame. Didn't cost
much 12 years ago, but now a replacement sock cost about
what I paid for the whole kit back then. Thanks for the
reminder. It is time to replace my old sock, which is about
to fall off the pole. I use an old TV telescopic TV antenna
mast and a piece of water pipe to mount it own. Never had
any problem with the hardware. Socks last about 3 or 4
years.
Now, 18 inches by 8 feet may sound like an overkill, but
once it is mounted out on the airstrip, it doesn't look
nearly so large.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hempy <dhempy(at)dlmail.ket.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Windsock question |
>
>I am finishing up a 1400' runway in my backyard and need to get a windsock.
>What are you guys using and how much did it set you back? How easy to put
>up?
>
>Jeremy Casey
>jrcasey(at)ldl.net
Windsok is a good deal. Bruce Hawk runs a good company. Not sure the URL,
but he has quite reasonable pricing on some nice socks.
-dave
--
David Hempy
Internet Database Administrator
Kentucky Educational Television - Distance Learning Division
-- (859)258-7164 -- (800)333-9764
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
> Lets see. What little I know may or may not be of help. If you build
the FireStar as a single > place aircraft with only one 5 gallon tank and
pay attention to weight you can get it in as an > ultralite. You cannot
use the 503 engine but could use the 447. You could then fly this
> without a license.
> Ron Payne
Ron, technically the Firestar I with a 447 will still be well over the
254 lb limit even without brakes, strobes, or full enclosure. Only the
Kolb Flyer, Ultrastar, Original Firestar, or Firefly could be built to
weigh less than 254 lbs and flown without a license under Part 103. If
the Sport Pilot proposal does go through, then all of the kolb line of
aircraft and ultralights would qualify. Are there any legal Firestar I
pilots presently flying under Part 103? I doubt it. Even my Original
Firestar is 5 lbs overweight, but I could get it under 254 lbs if I were
forced to do it. I have no brakes or full enclosure.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | elevator conrtol bushing |
Hello Kolb Flyers , did anyone have problems with the 3/8x.035x4" STEEL TUBE
used as bushings for elevator control ?The plans call for 3/8x .028 wall .The
5/16" bolt will not fit.Any suggestions ? Thanks again
Dave Snyder Long Branch ,N.J. Building FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator conrtol bushing |
The plans call for 3/8x .028 wall .The
> 5/16" bolt will not fit.Any suggestions ? Thanks again
>
> Dave Snyder Long Branch ,N.J. Building FSII
Dave and Gang:
Try a 5/6 ream, if you have one. If not, try reaming with a
5/16 drill bit.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator conrtol bushing |
> Hello Kolb Flyers , did anyone have problems with the 3/8x.035x4" STEEL TUBE
> used as bushings for elevator control ?
> Dave Snyder Long Branch ,N.J. Building FSII
Dave and Gang:
Pardon me. I did not read your post well enough. My eyes
saw steel and my mind was thinking aluminum. Call Kolb and
tell them to send you the correct material. These are short
bushings, aren't they? Maybe you could pick up a piece of
3/8X.028 locally.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Windsock question |
I got a piece of pipe and hinged it in such a way that the hinge is
attached to the hangar wall just below the roof line, and the vertical pipe
pivots around the hinge. Then another smaller piece of pipe slips into the
first one, making it higher, then a piece of EMT slips into that one,
making it real high. At the top, the EMT is bent 90 degrees to curve out
horizontal about 4', and then down about 2', and that is where I attach a
cheap K-mart windsock, the kind with a colored parrot or whatever on it. I
buy up a bunch of windsocks in the fall when they are closing them out for
$2 each, and replace them as necessary. It is big enough to see at Kolb
speeds, and small enough that so far no wind has bent the unbraced pipe.
The reason that the top of the pipe sticks out and down, is that way the
windsock never gets twisted around the pipe and torn up, it always hangs
free. When I want to put on a new sock, I unfasten the bottom of the pole,
tie a rope to it, and let it swing up, as the top swings down to rest on
the ground. It is top heavy and unbalanced, but managable. After I swap the
socks out, I swing it back into place and secure it again at the bottom. I
probably have $35 total in it, and it works w/o any problems.
When I get around to updating my web page, I could add a picture of the
windsock mast to it, thanks!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I am finishing up a 1400' runway in my backyard and need to get a windsock.
>What are you guys using and how much did it set you back? How easy to put
>up?
>
>Jeremy Casey
>jrcasey(at)ldl.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Verner Engine Pictures |
Hi Dennis,
Nice looking motor! Was curious how high the thrust line will be. It looks
like it might be a tad on the high side, but I don't know how high one could
go. With a 582 C-box and 72" prop, the CL of the prop shaft was about 38"
or so above the top of the fuselage tube. This was as high as old Kolb had
experience with. Possibly New Kolb has run this set-up already? Mark-III
looks very nice, from what shows in the photo. Watch out that cover over
the rear of the fuselage doesn get loose and ... well you know.
Looks like your getting close to flying!
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kirby Dennis
Contr SMC/TM
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 1:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Verner Engine Pictures
Hello, fellow Kolbers -
Over the past year, you have heard me talk about the Verner motor that I am
planning to install in my Mark-3. I took delivery of this engine in
December, and just this weekend, I mounted it on my aircraft. Will Uribe
was gracious enough to allow me to post a few pictures on his website for
the List to see, if you are interested. Will said he will leave them on his
site only for a couple of weeks due to webspace limitations. See them at:
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner1.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner2.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner3.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner4.jpg
>
> Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-1400, PowerFin-72, 95% finished in
Cedar Crest, NM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
All I was going by was that when I purchased my FireStar kit last September,
Sue assured me that it could be built as a legal ustralite with a 447
engine. I wanted the 503 so I decided to go the experimental route. I have
never talked to any one that has a FireStar ultralite so I cannot verify
this. I was just going on Sue's word.
Ron Payne
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Questions
>
> > Lets see. What little I know may or may not be of help. If you build
> the FireStar as a single > place aircraft with only one 5 gallon tank and
> pay attention to weight you can get it in as an > ultralite. You cannot
> use the 503 engine but could use the 447. You could then fly this
> > without a license.
>
> > Ron Payne
>
> Ron, technically the Firestar I with a 447 will still be well over the
> 254 lb limit even without brakes, strobes, or full enclosure.
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Verner Engine Pictures |
The New Kolb has the Verner engine flying on their Extra. I saw & heard it fly
at Sun and Fun. Seems to fly quite nice and it has a nice fairly low RPM voice.
>>> flykolb(at)epix.net 04/24/01 09:44PM >>>
Hi Dennis,
Possibly New Kolb has run this set-up already?
Dennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <PVolum(at)etsmiami.com> |
| Subject: | Verner Engine Pictures |
I asked one of the Kolb factory guys there (didn't get his name) about it's
performance. He replied that compared to the 912 it was "a bit sluggish".
PV
The New Kolb has the Verner engine flying on their Extra. I saw & heard it
fly at Sun and Fun. Seems to fly quite nice and it has a nice fairly low RPM
voice.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: Verner Engine Pictures |
"Dennis Souder" wrote:
< Was curious how high the thrust line will be. It looks
like it might be a tad on the high side, but I don't know how high one could
go. With a 582 C-box and 72" prop, the CL of the prop shaft was about 38"
or so above the top of the fuselage tube. This was as high as old Kolb had
experience with. >
Dennis - The center of the prop hub on the Verner is exactly 39 inches above
the boom tube. This gives a couple of inches clearance with the 72-inch
prop I intend to use.
< Possibly New Kolb has run this set-up already? >
Yes - TNK showed up at Sun'N'Fun this month showcasing thier new Mark-III
Extra equipped with a Verner engine they obtained used from a dealer in
Canada. They were having oil leak problems, and after 3 days of trying to
figure it out, they finally sought advice from Steve Flynn (the US
distributor from Orlando, from whom I purchased my engine) . He discovered
the problem, and had it fixed that afternoon. That Mk-3 then flew many demo
hours at the airshow following the fix. He also gave them advice on better
engine mounting - they apparently had theirs installed too far aft.
Needless to say, TNK folks were very happy. If their evaluation of the
Verner engine is favorable, we may see this engine offered by New Kolb as an
option for their kits in the not-too-distant future.
< Watch out that cover over the rear of the fuselage doesn get loose
and ... well you know. >
The cover you see in the picture is my own design for a baggage compartment
cover. Instead of fabric-covering the section aft of the fuel tanks on my
Mark-III (as the plans suggest), I left it open. I figured I could use this
space for storage. Although it is somewhat small, it's better than nothing
- can probably fit a small tent and a couple of compact duffel bags in it.
(I'll have to watch my CG closely when I do this.) I installed a fishing
net that slings down into the space below, to hold cargo yet keep it off of
the aileron torque tube. The cover is vinyl upholstery material, secured in
place with a bungee spider web sewn to the bottom of the cover. The bungee
attaches with several "S" hooks around the perimeter of the cover, on the
underside. For additional security, the edges are also held down with
velcro. You're right - it would be an ugly scene if this cover were to come
loose and go thru the prop!
Thanks for the complimentary words on my almost-finished airplane - I hope
to have it flying within a few months. I will keep the List informed on
progress.
Regards -
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
s/n 300 (old Kolb)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: Windsock Question |
"Jeremy Casey" wrote:
< I am finishing up a 1400' runway in my backyard and need to get a
windsock. ... >
"John Hauck" wrote:
< I started out with a little ultralight type windsock, when I
first opened my 600 ft grass strip. >
"Richard Pike" wrote:
< I buy up a bunch of windsocks in the fall when they are closing them out
for $2 each, and replace them as necessary. It is big enough to see at Kolb
speeds ... >
You guys with runways in your backyards make me envious!
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | Verner Engine Pictures |
Wow, that is quite and engine! Will the vertical center of gravity /
thrust be significantly different than a 582 or other engines? A 72 inch
prop is big.
Dale Seitzer
-----Original Message-----
From: Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 12:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Verner Engine Pictures
Hello, fellow Kolbers -
Over the past year, you have heard me talk about the Verner motor that I am
planning to install in my Mark-3. I took delivery of this engine in
December, and just this weekend, I mounted it on my aircraft. Will Uribe
was gracious enough to allow me to post a few pictures on his website for
the List to see, if you are interested. Will said he will leave them on
his
site only for a couple of weeks due to webspace limitations. See them at:
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner1.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner2.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner3.jpg
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Verner4.jpg
>
> Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-1400, PowerFin-72, 95% finished in
Cedar Crest, NM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Verner Engine Pictures |
> secured in
> place with a bungee spider web sewn to the bottom of the cover. The
> bungee
> attaches with several "S" hooks around the perimeter of the cover, on
> the
> underside. For additional security, the edges are also held down
> with
> velcro. You're right - it would be an ugly scene if this cover were
> to come
> loose and go thru the prop!
Not trying to be a nosey pain in the back side ...but S hooks sound the
"uh oh" bell too. If used, can you close the S on one end so that it
can't depart if it accidentally comes undone?
-Ben Ransom
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Kolbsters,
I am planning to build a runway for my firefly south of Houston. I
would like some input on minimum ,safe length required, if 50 ft trees were
to be at each end. At this time they arent there, but could be some day if
the neighbors chose. I would
have a better idea if I had my firefly in the air already , but it isnt. All
input is appreciated.
Ed Diebel (Unfinnished Firefly)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Upwind fliers, an old neighbor with a defunct strip gave me his
old contraption when I started my own strip. The top is one
piece of water pipe sleeved over another (capped at top)
with a large steel ball in the middle.
The swinging pipe has a bracket holding a 5-gal pail
with the bottom cut out. It's all welded, but using Kolb
expertise, pop rivets would be just as good. I've been
meaning to extend the pail with a strip of aluminum, although
theoretically fabric will tell you wind strength too.
--The easy way when coming into a sockless field is
to fly 90 deg. across the runway and look to see which
way your tail is aimed. ---Bob Bean, sunny NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator bushings |
Dear Kolb,
I understand that Sue is not there anymore. Sorry to see her leave.
My question: my Mark IIIXtra was powder-coated in aero yellow. I am
getting ready to cut the bushings for the elevator bolts out of the 3/8"
steel. Should this piece have been powder-coated? Same question for the
tangs that are for the tail support wires. Any reason that they are not
powder-coated? Will the bushings for the elevator control bolts get rid of
the slack in the controls, or is there supposed to be "play" built into the
controls between up stick and down elevator?
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Danville Ky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
This is to John Hauck concerning the thrust blocks he mentioned several
weeks ago. I believe he said that they help prevent premature wear of the
elevator hinges.
John, do you have any photos yet? If so, maybe you could email them to me.
I know Roddy in Cincinnati is also interested in them.
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thrust blocks |
Ditto for me.
Denny Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: Clay Stuart <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 8:55 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Thrust blocks
>
> This is to John Hauck concerning the thrust blocks he mentioned several
> weeks ago. I believe he said that they help prevent premature wear of the
> elevator hinges.
>
> John, do you have any photos yet? If so, maybe you could email them to me.
> I know Roddy in Cincinnati is also interested in them.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thrust blocks |
Me too! Thank you so much...
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
Denny Rowe wrote:
>
>
> Ditto for me.
> Denny Rowe
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Clay Stuart <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 8:55 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Thrust blocks
>
> >
> > This is to John Hauck concerning the thrust blocks he mentioned several
> > weeks ago. I believe he said that they help prevent premature wear of the
> > elevator hinges.
> >
> > John, do you have any photos yet? If so, maybe you could email them to me.
> > I know Roddy in Cincinnati is also interested in them.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Clay Stuart
> > Danville KY
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/25/01 |
In a message dated 04/26/2001 1:51:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> All I was going by was that when I purchased my FireStar kit last September,
> Sue assured me that it could be built as a legal ustralite with a 447
> engine. I wanted the 503 so I decided to go the experimental route. I have
> never talked to any one that has a FireStar ultralite so I cannot verify
> this. I was just going on Sue's word.
>
> If anyone has the old book as I do, they will find there are two problems
> with an older version of the firestar passing as a FAR 103 plane. Firstly,
> you have to NOT install several things, like the drag strut brace, use the
> very much lighter (which I have a pair of) landing gear legs and wheels,
> few instruments, no brakes, very short windscreen, like, you gotta cut
> every single corner. light stits, two coats of poly brush, two coats of
> poly tone w/uv. Now, according to what I have read and understand, you
> CANNOT use the 447 because it gives you too much theoretical speed!!! Of
> course, you could put the 377 tag on a 447 and nobody would know probably.
> This is what I understand is necessary. I got close but I used the drag
> strut brace and heavy wheels and landing gear, some other stuff and then
> started stuffing it. Love the 447 performance over the 377. Would like to
> install a 503 for dependability some day. Gotta rework the wings first.
> Some day. Hope this helps. Ted Cowan. Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/25/01 |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
> > If anyone has the old book as I do, they will find there are two
problems
> > with an older version of the firestar passing as a FAR 103 plane.
> Firstly, you have to NOT install several things, like the drag strut
brace,
> use the very much lighter (which I have a pair of) landing gear legs
and
> wheels, few instruments, no brakes, very short windscreen, like, you
gotta
> cut every single corner. light stits, two coats of poly brush, two
> coats of poly tone w/uv. Now, according to what I have read and
> understand, you CANNOT use the 447 because it gives you too much
theoretical
> speed!!! Of course, you could put the 377 tag on a 447 and nobody
would know
> probably. This is what I understand is necessary. I got close but I
used
> the drag strut brace and heavy wheels and landing gear, some other
stuff
> and then started stuffing it. Love the 447 performance over the 377.
> Would like to install a 503 for dependability some day. Gotta rework
the wings
> first. Some day. Hope this helps. Ted Cowan. Alabama
Hi Ted and others,
Now who in their right mind would not want to install the drag strut
brace to save on weight? Even my Original Firestar has the brace. What
was your empty weight on your Firestar I?
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Olson" <olson1bj(at)hotmail.com> |
Thank you Charles,
It appears that no one else has had oil injector shaft problems either.
Might have to call Kodiak before I go up again.
Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Has anybody had problems with their pump shaft leaking? I have a small amount
of oil leaking from the back of my injector pump and running down the recoil
starter cover. Is there a seal that can be replaced? Or just remove the pump,
plug the ports and mix the gas and oil. I do like the simplicityof not mixing
the oil. >>
Mine leaks a tiny bit exactly as you describe. Haven't done anything to fix it
yet.
Charlie
FS II / R503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
I'm having the same kind of small leak (External engine lubrication ;-). I
wipe it off after each flight.
Will
In a message dated 4/26/01 10:46:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Ulflyer(at)aol.com
writes:
>
> << Has anybody had problems with their pump shaft leaking? I have a small
> amount of oil leaking from the back of my injector pump and running down
> the recoil starter cover. Is there a seal that can be replaced? Or just
> remove the pump, plug the ports and mix the gas and oil. I do like the
> simplicityof not mixing the oil. >>
>
> Mine leaks a tiny bit exactly as you describe. Haven't done anything to fix
> it yet.
>
> Charlie
> FS II / R503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Schlosser" <kevinschlosser(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Windsock Question |
It kinda reminds me of my buddy and his Rans. He requested permission from his
neighbors to decapitate thier pine trees so he can have enough clearance to take
off from his back yard. I pictured him up on the ladder sawing like the kid
in home alone :-). One day, I'm planning on buying land just for the purpose
of living "at the airport". I envy you folks too.
-< PropellerHead >-
----- Original Message -----
From: Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 1:21 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: RE: Windsock Question
kirtland.af.mil>
"Jeremy Casey" wrote:
< I am finishing up a 1400' runway in my backyard and need to get a
windsock. ... >
"John Hauck" wrote:
< I started out with a little ultralight type windsock, when I
first opened my 600 ft grass strip. >
"Richard Pike" wrote:
< I buy up a bunch of windsocks in the fall when they are closing them out
for $2 each, and replace them as necessary. It is big enough to see at Kolb
speeds ... >
You guys with runways in your backyards make me envious!
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
=
=
=
=
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rotax 582 components-sale |
Hi Gang,
Have the following items for sale due replacement of 582 on my Mk-3.
* Set of Bing altitude compensating carburetors (HAC)
* Complete exhaust system. Hot coated in silver.
* Powerfin "E" model (wide chord) propeller, 68 inch with hub.
All items are in nearly new condition with low time. Please contact me off
list if you are interested in the above.
After considerable research I have made a decision on the four stroke engine
that will replace the 582. Opening the envelope. And the winner is---- The
Verner 1400. Dennis Kirby has been providing updates on his nearly completed
Mk-3 with the Verner. It'll be a couple months before I receive mine but will
post information to the list as it becomes available.
Bill George
Engineless Mk-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hempy <dhempy(at)dlmail.ket.org> |
| Subject: | Re: firefly runway |
> I am planning to build a runway for my firefly south of Houston. I
>would like some input on minimum ,safe length required, if 50 ft trees were
>to be at each end. At this time they arent there, but could be some day if
>the neighbors chose. I would
>have a better idea if I had my firefly in the air already , but it isnt. All
>input is appreciated.
>
I wonder if you established and regularly used your runway, if you would
develop some de facto right of way over time. If you've been flying off it
for five years, before they plant their trees, would you have any protection?
Just a thought...I don't have a clue of such things.
As for 50 foot trees, they will eat up hundreds of feet of runway. I would
take a 500' runway with clear approaches over a 1000' runway w/ 50'
trees. Any chance you could put a shorter runway running another direction
with clear approaches? How much room have you got?
-dave
--
David Hempy
Internet Database Administrator
Kentucky Educational Television - Distance Learning Division
-- (859)258-7164 -- (800)333-9764
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: Powdercoating |
Ed Diebel wrote:
< Your comment about the crack hiding ability of the powder coat process is
well taken And is one I never thought of but is one that should be
considered when choosing. >
Ed, and All -
I had my metal parts powedercoated for my Mark-3, and am very happy with the
final appearance - glad I did it. I was advised beforehand to pick a light
color for your powdercoat. That way, any cracks (in the welds) that may
occur later in life would be easily visible. A dark color would hide
cracks.
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | External/Internal Corrosion |
Hi Gang:
Been reading a lot lately, about protecting the airframe and
parts from corrosion, i.e., powder coating, epoxy primer,
aerothane.
Brings a question to mind. What are you doing about
internal corrosion prevention?
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: External/Internal Corrosion |
To Hawk and Kolbers,
Good point! The internal corrosion is something I'm concerned about
as I am starting to restore a 12-year old MkII. I recall hot linseed oil
(?) was used in the rag-and-tube days of Cubs, Champs, etc., just my memory,
but what are the ultralight standards? Some sort of internal coating would
seem to be necessary. Dennis S?.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 10:04 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: External/Internal Corrosion
>
> Hi Gang:
>
> Been reading a lot lately, about protecting the airframe and
> parts from corrosion, i.e., powder coating, epoxy primer,
> aerothane.
>
> Brings a question to mind. What are you doing about
> internal corrosion prevention?
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
Let's hear some wind stories. And not just hot air!
Who's gotten their Mk III into what winds with what success?
(sustained, cross, aloft, anything)
I'm thinking about me and my 582, but state whatever engine you have
and if it helps or hurts performances in winds. What is your limiting
wind you won't go near? Any special tips?
thanks
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: firefly runway |
Dave I have 2000 ft but the prevailing wind is about 45% to the length of
my property. I only have about 700ft in the direction that is most often
directly in the wind
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rotax 582 components-sale |
Hi Gang,
Correction on the Powerfin Prop. It is an "F" model, vice "E." Specs and
application info on Powerfin web site: www.powerfin.com
Bill George
Engineless Mk-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thrust blocks |
Don't forget the Lar. Thanks.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Thrust blocks
>
> Ditto for me.
> Denny Rowe
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Clay Stuart <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 8:55 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Thrust blocks
>
>
> >
> > This is to John Hauck concerning the thrust blocks he mentioned several
> > weeks ago. I believe he said that they help prevent premature wear of
the
> > elevator hinges.
> >
> > John, do you have any photos yet? If so, maybe you could email them to
me.
> > I know Roddy in Cincinnati is also interested in them.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Clay Stuart
> > Danville KY
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firefly runway |
The new issue of AOPA Pilot has an article by their insurance guru, on just
this subject. Sadly, the neighbor can do as he pleases on his property, and
it's up to you to miss the trees. Apparently, if you crash into his trees,
and "land" on his property, you're guilty of trespass. What a sorry state
we've come to. Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hempy" <dhempy(at)dlmail.ket.org>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: firefly runway
>
>
> > I am planning to build a runway for my firefly south of Houston.
I
> >would like some input on minimum ,safe length required, if 50 ft trees
were
> >to be at each end. At this time they arent there, but could be some day
if
> >the neighbors chose. I would
> >have a better idea if I had my firefly in the air already , but it isnt.
All
> >input is appreciated.
> >
>
> I wonder if you established and regularly used your runway, if you would
> develop some de facto right of way over time. If you've been flying off
it
> for five years, before they plant their trees, would you have any
protection?
>
> Just a thought...I don't have a clue of such things.
>
> As for 50 foot trees, they will eat up hundreds of feet of runway. I
would
> take a 500' runway with clear approaches over a 1000' runway w/ 50'
> trees. Any chance you could put a shorter runway running another
direction
> with clear approaches? How much room have you got?
>
> -dave
>
>
> --
> David Hempy
> Internet Database Administrator
> Kentucky Educational Television - Distance Learning Division
> -- (859)258-7164 -- (800)333-9764
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Powdercoating |
The powder coat doesn't always hide the nasties, but don't bet on it. Just
for an example, look at the 1st page of Building Vamoose, on my website.
( Getting Started ?? ) ( This is terrible.........can't even remember my
own page sequence. ) The rudder horn was cracked, and it was very
obvious, as you can clearly see in the pic. TOK replaced it instantly -
free. But...........as I say, don't bet on it. The light color point was
very well taken. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 9:57 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: RE: Powdercoating
>
> Ed Diebel wrote:
>
> < Your comment about the crack hiding ability of the powder coat process
is
> well taken And is one I never thought of but is one that should be
> considered when choosing. >
>
> Ed, and All -
> I had my metal parts powedercoated for my Mark-3, and am very happy with
the
> final appearance - glad I did it. I was advised beforehand to pick a
light
> color for your powdercoat. That way, any cracks (in the welds) that may
> occur later in life would be easily visible. A dark color would hide
> cracks.
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: External/Internal Corrosion |
I plan on using 'Corrosion X' when Vamoose is completed. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 10:04 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: External/Internal Corrosion
>
> Hi Gang:
>
> Been reading a lot lately, about protecting the airframe and
> parts from corrosion, i.e., powder coating, epoxy primer,
> aerothane.
>
> Brings a question to mind. What are you doing about
> internal corrosion prevention?
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/26/01 10:12:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
vincenicely(at)chartertn.net writes:
> Last year, there was a string on the use of Active Noise Reduction Headsets.
> After reading the reports, I decided I would add the Headsets, Inc
> modification to my David Clark headset. It took a while, and I have just
> installed them.
>
>
My friend, Chuck had the Headsets, Inc. ANR modules installed in his
military-style helmet & I was real impressed with the results. I was running
a Comtronics Ultra Pro 2000 helmet w/ built-in headset connected to a Delcom
960 radio. I was always saying "Say again...". I wanted to install the
Headsets, Inc modules in the Comtronics but they said no dice, so, at S & F I
bought a Light Speed ANR headset,[the cheapest I could find], Lynx helmet,
and Icom A-5 radio with remote antenna hooked inverted to the front right
screw that holds the windscreen on my Firestar I.
The difference is like night & day. No static, no asking for repeats, no
headache after 30 min. flying. The Light Speed ANR headset is $275. Worth
every penny.
By the way, don't try wearing your headset with just a baseball cap & do a
"slip" in your FS I with short windscreen.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: External/Internal Corrosion |
>
>I plan on using 'Corrosion X' when Vamoose is completed. Lar.
Aircraft Spruce sells the stuff made for that called "Tube seal".
Used it in parts of my tubes. Mostly the vertical tail section,
bad to collect water from the vertical hinges. Also leave a way
for water to get out the bottom of this section if you don't use
this stuff or something like it.
It creeps and crawls up and down the inside of the tubes.
Problem seems to be ...it never stops. That is, if it finds a way
out it just keeps on coming out. Plug "all" the holes after you
put it in.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
My MKIII is tolerable in 25 mph winds in flat Indiana, but no fun at all
over the Tennessee / North Carolina mountains in 20 mph winds. Because when
the winds in the vicinity of the mountains are blowing 20 MPH, the winds in
amongst the mountains are doing most what ever you can imagine. The engine
(Rotax 532, 64 HP)is sufficient, the control authority is sufficient, it's
just that the pilot loses all enthusiasm.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Let's hear some wind stories. And not just hot air!
>
>Who's gotten their Mk III into what winds with what success?
>(sustained, cross, aloft, anything)
>
>I'm thinking about me and my 582, but state whatever engine you have
>and if it helps or hurts performances in winds. What is your limiting
>wind you won't go near? Any special tips?
>
>thanks
>
>=====
>John & Lynn Richmond :-)
>Palm Coast, Fl.
>Mk3, 582
>
>Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
>http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Monte <n65me(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Sun&Fun Pictures |
Hi All,
I put a few pictures on my web page that I took at sun & fun. I scanned some
of them pretty large because it seems all you can find is very small pictures.
Two of the pictures are from Huntsville Space Center but I think you will
find them interesting. Myself and my son are in the pictures for reference for
size. I hope the guys in the Kolbs don't get mad at me for placing them on my
webpage. Later.
Monte
N65ME
http://monteevans.com/snf.html
PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart.
http://www.peoplepc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun&Fun Pictures |
The pics are great, Monty. Wish I coulda been there. Envious
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Monte" <n65me(at)peoplepc.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2001 11:44 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Sun&Fun Pictures
>
> Hi All,
>
> I put a few pictures on my web page that I took at sun & fun. I
scanned some of them pretty large because it seems all you can find is very
small pictures. Two of the pictures are from Huntsville Space Center but I
think you will find them interesting. Myself and my son are in the pictures
for reference for size. I hope the guys in the Kolbs don't get mad at me for
placing them on my webpage. Later.
> Monte
> N65ME
> http://monteevans.com/snf.html
>
>
> PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart. >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: External/Internal Corrosion |
You bet, and to put it in without a mess, go to a veterinarian, and see if
he'll give you a plastic syringe. The one I got is about the size of my
index finger, and has a bent plastic tip. Sure makes accurate placement of
that oil easy. I use mine mostly for lubricating the drill bit in the jig,
when I'm drilling safety wire holes. Does a dandy job. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Possum" <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: External/Internal Corrosion
>
> >
> >I plan on using 'Corrosion X' when Vamoose is completed.
Lar.
>
> Aircraft Spruce sells the stuff made for that called "Tube seal".
> Used it in parts of my tubes. Mostly the vertical tail section,
> bad to collect water from the vertical hinges. Also leave a way
> for water to get out the bottom of this section if you don't use
> this stuff or something like it.
> It creeps and crawls up and down the inside of the tubes.
> Problem seems to be ...it never stops. That is, if it finds a way
> out it just keeps on coming out. Plug "all" the holes after you
> put it in.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
OK folks, for those who are interested, I've put together 3 pages about
the engine/re-drive package I'm building for Vamoose. I hadn't really
planned on saying too much till it was finished and running, since it's
all speculation right now, but I've been asked by quite a few people,
and have been sending out bits and pieces. So.............to put all
the bits and pieces together, in one place, click on my site, below, and
go to "Building Vamoose." Then click the "Engine & Re-drive" button. I
sure hope you-all enjoy it, and I'd appreciate some feedback on YOUR
thoughts. Thanks. Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
The tube seal stuff works great but you're right, it keeps migrating
everywhere. Be sure to do all your painting first and then tube seal. I
did it the other way around on some parts and had a real mess.
Rody
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: External/Internal Corrosion
>
>I plan on using 'Corrosion X' when Vamoose is completed. Lar.
>Aircraft Spruce sells the stuff made for that called "Tube seal".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Pages |
Excellent web pages, excellent work. Thinking about the magnitude of the
task you have given yourself makes me a little embarrased to just be using
my antique "bolt it on and go fly" Rotax 532.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>OK folks, for those who are interested, I've put together 3 pages about
>the engine/re-drive package I'm building for Vamoose. I hadn't really
>planned on saying too much till it was finished and running, since it's
>all speculation right now, but I've been asked by quite a few people,
>and have been sending out bits and pieces. So.............to put all
>the bits and pieces together, in one place, click on my site, below, and
>go to "Building Vamoose." Then click the "Engine & Re-drive" button. I
>sure hope you-all enjoy it, and I'd appreciate some feedback on YOUR
>thoughts. Thanks. Big Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
>.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Probably most everybody already knows this, but just in case:
when you go from the traditional green antifreeze, to the orange,
flush your system good, or you will end up with jelled mung
throughout your system.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Pages |
Believe me, there's many more times than once, that I've wished I'd gone
with something more simple. This has become a focussed challenge by now,
tho', and just as with the plane - now that I'm this far along, I wouldn't
trade the experience for anything....................tho' if I had it to do
over again, I doubt if I'd start either again. Pore ol',
Tired ol', Snivellin' ol' Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Pages
>
> Excellent web pages, excellent work. Thinking about the magnitude of the
> task you have given yourself makes me a little embarrased to just be using
> my antique "bolt it on and go fly" Rotax 532.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >OK folks, for those who are interested, I've put together 3 pages about
> >the engine/re-drive package I'm building for Vamoose. I hadn't really
> >planned on saying too much till it was finished and running, since it's
> >all speculation right now, but I've been asked by quite a few people,
> >and have been sending out bits and pieces. So.............to put all
> >the bits and pieces together, in one place, click on my site, below, and
> >go to "Building Vamoose." Then click the "Engine & Re-drive" button. I
> >sure hope you-all enjoy it, and I'd appreciate some feedback on YOUR
> >thoughts. Thanks. Big Lar.
> >
> >Larry Bourne
> >Palm Springs, Ca.
> >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> >http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> >.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Pages |
I know I just sent a reply to this, but another thought (??) jumped into my
head................last week a new builder called on the phone to talk
airplanes, and told me he was almost overwhelmed by the amount of work
ahead. I told him to eat the apple one bite at a time. If you look ahead
too far, it can be daunting, and you can scare yourself off. Just look one
step at a time, and after a few steps, there's very visible progress, and
it's heartening..............see ??.........I can do it after all.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Pages
>
> Excellent web pages, excellent work. Thinking about the magnitude of the
> task you have given yourself makes me a little embarrased to just be using
> my antique "bolt it on and go fly" Rotax 532.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >OK folks, for those who are interested, I've put together 3 pages about
> >the engine/re-drive package I'm building for Vamoose. I hadn't really
> >planned on saying too much till it was finished and running, since it's
> >all speculation right now, but I've been asked by quite a few people,
> >and have been sending out bits and pieces. So.............to put all
> >the bits and pieces together, in one place, click on my site, below, and
> >go to "Building Vamoose." Then click the "Engine & Re-drive" button. I
> >sure hope you-all enjoy it, and I'd appreciate some feedback on YOUR
> >thoughts. Thanks. Big Lar.
> >
> >Larry Bourne
> >Palm Springs, Ca.
> >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> >http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> >.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
Larry, what type of oil do you plan on using with your chain drive?
-----Original Message-----
From: larrybiglar [mailto:larrybiglar(at)msn.com]
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 2:05 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Engine Pages
OK folks, for those who are interested, I've put together 3 pages about
the engine/re-drive package I'm building for Vamoose. I hadn't really
planned on saying too much till it was finished and running, since it's
all speculation right now, but I've been asked by quite a few people,
and have been sending out bits and pieces. So.............to put all
the bits and pieces together, in one place, click on my site, below, and
go to "Building Vamoose." Then click the "Engine & Re-drive" button. I
sure hope you-all enjoy it, and I'd appreciate some feedback on YOUR
thoughts. Thanks. Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: INSTALLING NEW LANDING GEAR |
on 4/23/01, JIMMY HANKINSON wrote:
< When installing new landing gear, what is the best way of lining the
wheel and axle bracket up where the wheel will track straight?? >
Jimmy, and other Kolbers -
Here's the method that someone posted on this List a couple years ago, which
worked very well for me:
Go to Home Depot and buy a solid copper grounding rod, 5/8-inch diameter,
maybe 7 or 8 feet long. Install and bolt your gear legs into place in the
frame sockets, and slide the steel axle fittings onto the ends of the gear
legs, but don't drill the holes in the alum gear leg yet. These axle
fittings have steel tubes of 5/8-inch inside diameter, to accept the wheel
axle. (On a Mark-3, anyway - Firefly might be different size.)
Slide the copper rod thru these two axle fittings, and they should line up.
Now your can drill the holes in the alum gear legs to secure the axle
fittings. If you find the axle fittings do not quite line up perfectly (as
mine did - you'll know, 'cause the rod will want to bow in the middle),
orient the rod so that it bow goes forward. This puts your axle fittings in
a slightly toe-out position. This is okay. What you want to avoid is a
toe-in position. That will make your airplane very squirrelly to taxi.
Here's the best part: Keep your receipt - you can then take the grounding
rod back to Home Depot and return it for your money back!
Hope this helps -
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, s/n 300, 95% done
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Pages |
The re-drive taps into the engine oil supply. A spray bar squirts oil at
the inside of the thrust bearing, and a 2nd one sprays the inside of the
chain. Oil then drains out the bottom, and is recovered by the engine's oil
pump. Which engine oil do I plan on using ?? Wellll............... so
far, it looks like AeroShell 100, but that's not final yet. Suggestions ??
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 11:34 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Engine Pages
>
> Larry, what type of oil do you plan on using with your chain drive?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: larrybiglar [mailto:larrybiglar(at)msn.com]
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 2:05 AM
> To: Kolb
> Subject: Kolb-List: Engine Pages
>
>
> OK folks, for those who are interested, I've put together 3 pages about
> the engine/re-drive package I'm building for Vamoose. I hadn't really
> planned on saying too much till it was finished and running, since it's
> all speculation right now, but I've been asked by quite a few people,
> and have been sending out bits and pieces. So.............to put all
> the bits and pieces together, in one place, click on my site, below, and
> go to "Building Vamoose." Then click the "Engine & Re-drive" button. I
> sure hope you-all enjoy it, and I'd appreciate some feedback on YOUR
> thoughts. Thanks. Big Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Movement |
>
>
>Now Watch It Woody!! You are only allowed to use the U word to discribe a
>SlingShot if you own one. ...Richard Swiderski
Sorry but I am also know as a sculptor and I invoke my artist licence to
say that Kolb could have spent a bit more time making it prettier and have
the side benefit of having people want to buy it just cause it is pretty.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
Terry wrote:
>
>
> Hi all
>
> Last fall I managed to bend one of my aluminum gear legs just a little. My
> wife and I were trying to find Eugene Zimmerman's place near E-town Pa. I
> had been told by someone else that his grass strip was a little bit of a
> short field. Anyway, one of Eugene's sons was flying and led us to their
> strip. From the air it looked long enough so I decided to give it a try.
> It was a perfect day, very little wind so I was able to drag it in at a very
> slow speed. What I didn't realize from the air was that the first part of
> the strip was up hill. Since my airspeed was slow I didn't have enough
> momentum to flair uphill, so I bent my left gear just a little. It wasn't
> much, I was able to keep flying last fall, however I decided to replace them
> this spring with the new spring steel ones from the New Kolb Co. I've made
> six landings on the new gear and really like them and the bumps on the taxi
> ways are much smoother. So I have a straight aluminum leg and a slightly
> bent one with the axle adaptors and steel axle for the matco brakes if
> someone can use them. Make me an offer. Kolb gets $53.00 per leg for new
> ones. BTW, I used less the 25% of the available landing distance that day.
>
> Terry
Hey Terry,
Stop by again sometime and use the next 25%. Sounds like the steel gear
is the way to go. Made mine with fiberglass but is plenty springy fore
and aft.
Eugene Z
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Movement |
Woody,
Well I guess since you have a license you can get away with it. But if
ugly is as ugly does, & it does beautiful flying, then it sure is a
beautiful ugly. Actually, I really do like the way it looks... like its
ready to just pounce off the ground. Of course my old long legged UltraStar
was reeeeeeally ugly, and she became beautiful to me, so maybe I'm not the
one to judge beauty.
Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Aileron Movement
>
> >
> >
> >Now Watch It Woody!! You are only allowed to use the U word to discribe
a SlingShot if you own one. ...Richard Swiderski
>
>
> Sorry but I am also know as a sculptor and I invoke my artist licence
to
> say that Kolb could have spent a bit more time making it prettier and have
> the side benefit of having people want to buy it just cause it is pretty.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
Thanks Vince for the recommendation, I ordered my ANR kit this morning.
The lady I talked to said it takes at least 15 days to ship the kit because
it's custom built for each headset model.
My FireStar puts out 118 decibels even with the intake silencer and after
muffler. I have to raise the volume so high I use ear plugs under the
headset.
Without hearing protection I would receive 100% of daily noise dose in 10
minutes. After that I have the potential of hearing loss.
Regards,
Will Uribe
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
In a message dated 4/26/01 10:12:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
vincenicely(at)chartertn.net writes:
> Last year, there was a string on the use of Active Noise Reduction Headsets.
> After reading the reports, I decided I would add the Headsets, Inc
> modification to my David Clark headset. It took a while, and I have just
> installed them.
>
> I could hardly believe the amount of improvement. I had not been aware of
> the level of low frequency noise until I switched on the ANR. When
> listening to the ATIS or controllers at a nearby airport, without the ANR
> and full volume on my radio I could just hear them over the noise. With the
> ANR on, I had to turn the volume down some so the voices were not too loud.
>
> I am very please, obviously. Thank those who tried them earlier and
> reported.
>
> Vince Nicely
> Firestar II, 292 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi Kolbers,
Just want to put my two cents in on this thread. I've used my
Headsets Inc. ANR daily for almost two years and find it to be just as quiet
as the Bose series II and X or Sennheiser (OK, the Sennheisers are a little
better...) that some of my clients have. They are as durable as the David
Clarks they are mounted in, the only caveat I would give is do take your
time when installing them, small wires and a limited space in them earcups.
A great value, IMHO.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
I am getting ready to rig the tail-wire bracing. The manual suggests using
#10 kemies or wire bugs to hold the cable tight around the thimble before
pressing the nicropress sleeve. I called my Civil Air Patrol/electrician
friend asking for the electrical cable clamps and he hasn't been able to
locate ones for the #10 wire. The supply house has sizes #6 and #8
available, but no one has the #10 size. He is interested in my plane and is
still trying to find the correct size for me.
Any suggestions on where to find them or what method did you use? In the
archives, someone suggested just slightly tightening the Nicopress sleeve
enough to hold the cable, doing your final adjustments and then compressing
the sleeves completely.
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
building Mark IIIXtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dave Rains ground looped his Firestar |
Congratulations, Amy............that is a tremendous accomplishment.
I looked at those pics, and several things started batting around in my
skull........lotsa open room, right ?? Did that outer bearing weld itself
to the shaft ?? Howdja get it off ?? It's obvious that the inner bearing
took itself off, and it looks like it got fairly warm doing it. Looks like
the axle is ruined too...............which makes me
remember.............several yrs ago, when I was a raw newbie to the List,
the subject of installing bearings came up, and I put my .02 in, and told
how to do it properly. Someone came back with words to the effect of "we're
not building (space shuttles) (rockets) or whatever here, just little
airplanes." Nyaa, na na na naaa na ! ! ! See that groove on the axle,
folks - that inner bearing race spun on there and ruined it. Whenever I
install a bearing, if either the inner or outer race is not a TIGHT fit, I
use some of that green locktite that's designed to ooze into a joint After
Assembly.............and I do lotsa work with bearings, in many
applications. Listen to Uncle Lar, dammit ! ! ! At this
point it would be real easy to jump back into my tirade on "Chinese Junk,"
but being a nice guy, I'll spare you-all. Dave, it's a
relief to hear there was no real damage to either you or your plane. Take
care. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 2:34 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Dave Rains ground looped his Firestar
>
> Dave was on take off roll when the bearings on his right wheel
disintegrated
> before rotating. The wheel locked up so when he came to a stop he was
> pointing in the opposite direction. Thank God nothing happen to him or
his
> FireStar.>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
These are just a temporary clamp, Clay, so I don't think it's really
critical. I'd go ahead with the #8 kerneys, and if they don't tighten enuf,
put a couple of short lengths of wire in with it, as a filler. Biggest
no-no, is to be real careful not to nick, or kink your cable. If you do,
don't fool with it, get a new piece.........it's not that expensive, and a
broken tail brace wire could really ruin your day.
Cautious Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 5:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: wire bugs
>
> I am getting ready to rig the tail-wire bracing. The manual suggests
using
> #10 kemies or wire bugs to hold the cable tight around the thimble before
> pressing the nicropress sleeve. I called my Civil Air Patrol/electrician
> friend asking for the electrical cable clamps and he hasn't been able to
> locate ones for the #10 wire. The supply house has sizes #6 and #8
> available, but no one has the #10 size. He is interested in my plane and
is
> still trying to find the correct size for me.
>
> Any suggestions on where to find them or what method did you use? In the
> archives, someone suggested just slightly tightening the Nicopress sleeve
> enough to hold the cable, doing your final adjustments and then
compressing
> the sleeves completely.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
> building Mark IIIXtra
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Hey Charlie they're sewing up those "Possum" jackets next week.
Are you sure you want "CKin" or is "CkLin" or "CKLIN" OR
just plain "CHKNCHIT"
on the left front pocket?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>
>Hey Charlie they're sewing up those "Possum" jackets
Ooops, Sorry guys.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Larry,
When I looked at the photos and read the text of your engine pages, I too
felt a bit overwhelmed by all the time, energy and creative juices that you
surely must have poured into your power package! When you called many years
ago and talked about getting a Mark-III installing a vw, I never dreamed you
meant VW!!!!! Extra-ordinary work!
When I read your reply below, this almost forgotten tune came to mind.
Larry's Song:
Little by little,
Inch by inch.
By the yard its hard,
by the inch, what a cinch.
Never stare up the stairs,
just step up the steps.
Little by little,
Inch by inch.
Song and lyrics by Patch the Pirate
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of larrybiglar
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Pages
I know I just sent a reply to this, but another thought (??) jumped into my
head................last week a new builder called on the phone to talk
airplanes, and told me he was almost overwhelmed by the amount of work
ahead. I told him to eat the apple one bite at a time. If you look ahead
too far, it can be daunting, and you can scare yourself off. Just look one
step at a time, and after a few steps, there's very visible progress, and
it's heartening..............see ??.........I can do it after all.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine Pages
>
> Excellent web pages, excellent work. Thinking about the magnitude of the
> task you have given yourself makes me a little embarrased to just be using
> my antique "bolt it on and go fly" Rotax 532.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >OK folks, for those who are interested, I've put together 3 pages about
> >the engine/re-drive package I'm building for Vamoose. I hadn't really
> >planned on saying too much till it was finished and running, since it's
> >all speculation right now, but I've been asked by quite a few people,
> >and have been sending out bits and pieces. So.............to put all
> >the bits and pieces together, in one place, click on my site, below, and
> >go to "Building Vamoose." Then click the "Engine & Re-drive" button. I
> >sure hope you-all enjoy it, and I'd appreciate some feedback on YOUR
> >thoughts. Thanks. Big Lar.
> >
> >Larry Bourne
> >Palm Springs, Ca.
> >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> >http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> >.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Migawd, are they made in China, too ?? Awwwww, Posssuuumm ! ! !
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Possum" <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 9:51 PM
Subject: Kolb-List:
>
>
> Hey Charlie they're sewing up those "Possum" jackets next week.
> Are you sure you want "CKin" or is "CkLin" or "CKLIN" OR
> just plain "CHKNCHIT"
> on the left front pocket?
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Movement |
>
>
>Woody,
>
> Well I guess since you have a license you can get away with it. But if
>ugly is as ugly does, & it does beautiful flying, then it sure is a
>beautiful ugly.
I do think the Wood boys slingshot is kinda pretty.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Migawd, are they made in China, too ?? Awwwww, Posssuuumm ! ! !
>
>> Hey Charlie they're sewing up those "Possum" jackets next week.
>> Are you sure you want "CKin" or is "CkLin" or "CKLIN" OR
>> just plain "CHKNCHIT"
>> on the left front pocket?
No! They are made right here in the "Confederate United States of Amercia"
by God. BTW you can still go to "napster" and download "Little by little"
by (Patch the Pirate).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
If you can't find the right size of kernies, here is a method I have used:
if you have a set of the vise grips that are used to bend sheet metal with,
the ones that have flat jaws about 3" wide, use them. Take some duct tape,
put over the edges of the jaws, pull the wires up tight in the thimbles,
and then clamp the wires between the padded jaws, with the jaws up
against the thimble, the wire will not slip or mar.
Squeeze the thimble at one end of the wire, and then go
on to do the same thing at the other end.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I am getting ready to rig the tail-wire bracing. The manual suggests using
>#10 kemies or wire bugs to hold the cable tight around the thimble before
>pressing the nicropress sleeve. I called my Civil Air Patrol/electrician
>friend asking for the electrical cable clamps and he hasn't been able to
>locate ones for the #10 wire. The supply house has sizes #6 and #8
>available, but no one has the #10 size. He is interested in my plane and is
>still trying to find the correct size for me.
>
>Any suggestions on where to find them or what method did you use? In the
>archives, someone suggested just slightly tightening the Nicopress sleeve
>enough to hold the cable, doing your final adjustments and then compressing
>the sleeves completely.
>
>Thanks,
>Clay Stuart
>Danville KY
>building Mark IIIXtra
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Migawd, are they made in China, too ?? Awwwww, Posssuuumm ! ! !
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
And hey! A bunch of us "Possums" are flying to the Rome meeting of the
"Young Eagles"
Saturday to show them what "Ultralights" are,
They need to know that there are other things to fly besides that GA tincan
stuff.
And then to Alabama. One of our club members is buying the "Head Quarters"
flight park.
What are you doing this weekend? Huh
Be nice now, you know you are the oldest member of the list and I do
respect my elders.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: INSTALLING NEW LANDING GEAR |
In a message dated 4/27/01 3:12:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil writes:
> . If you find the axle fittings do not quite line up perfectly (as
> mine did - you'll know, 'cause the rod will want to bow in the middle),
> orient the rod so that it bow goes forward. This puts your axle fittings in
> a slightly toe-out position. This is okay. What you want to avoid is a
> toe-in position. That will make your airplane very squirrelly to taxi.
>
>
I could be wrong, but I believe just the opposite to be true- a little toe-in
[2-3 degrees] is desirable. When the plane is moving, drag on the wheels
causes the gear legs to flex back a little thereby removing the toe-in.
I must admit that my opinion is based on years of building & flying R/C
models. Any toe-out made them squirrelly[sp.]; a little toe-in cured the
problem.
Flame away...
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Eugene, I would like to here more about your glass gear. Would you care
to elaborate. I might want some for my firefly if they arent to heavy.
Ed Diebel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: INSTALLING NEW LANDING GEAR |
>
>In a message dated 4/27/01 3:12:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil writes:
>
>
>> . If you find the axle fittings do not quite line up perfectly (as
>> mine did - you'll know, 'cause the rod will want to bow in the middle),
>> orient the rod so that it bow goes forward. This puts your axle
fittings in
>> a slightly toe-out position. This is okay. What you want to avoid is a
>> toe-in position. That will make your airplane very squirrelly to taxi.
>>
>>
>
>I could be wrong, but I believe just the opposite to be true- a little
toe-in
>[2-3 degrees] is desirable. When the plane is moving, drag on the wheels
>causes the gear legs to flex back a little thereby removing the toe-in.
>
>I must admit that my opinion is based on years of building & flying R/C
>models. Any toe-out made them squirrelly[sp.]; a little toe-in cured the
>problem.
>
>Flame away...
Yeah, me too. A little toe-in is corrected when you sit in the plane. Extra
weight
flexes the gear and removes the tow-in. Too much toe-out tends to "drag the
wheels"
across the runway, not so bad on grass strips, but eats up your tires on
asphalt.
I found a neat way to land on a grass strips with out bouncing or floating
so much.
I lock or put pressure on my right brake before touching down. When you
touchdown,
The right brake grabs/drags enough to pull the nose down and keeps the
plane on the ground.
You compensate for the right drag with the left rudder. It will not nose
over.
I think the problem with these tail draggers is that the tail is heavy
enough that
If you land with any force at all on the main gear, the weight of the tail
will force it down, putting your wings in flying attitude again. (Look at
the bottom of your wings when your tail is on the ground).
If you are anything above stall speed when this happens, you will be flying
again or at least floating.
If your really good you "can" do a 3 point landing, but you'd better stall
6 inches off the ground.
I still do wheel landings. Saves a lot of bent landing gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Today, I went and picked up my completed gold fea.............I mean,
er, tail feathers. The parts all look good, and he did a good job, so
no real complaints, but a couple of comments, and questions. I know
from past experience that pure white is not a good color for something
like this, since keeping it clean is a chore, and also it doesn't really
look that good. So..........I bought Glacier White, and the finished
job, especially mounted on my Snow White (??) boom tube, looks more gray
than white. Oh well, guess it's mine, now. Seems pretty fragile to
this ol' ham handed mechanic. There's several small spots where they'd
been laying on something.......saw horse, I guess........and little
chips of white lifted off, to show the silver underneath. Also, when
tapping the tail ring onto the boom, using a block of wood, I bumped the
tail post a couple of times, and left nasty marks. Didn't hit it hard,
honest. Can these little glitches be touched up with a small artists'
paint brush, or should I find some one with an air brush ?? I have one
of those "Pre-Val" sprayers from A/C Spruce......would that work ??
Biggest thing is the rivet holes. Most of them are covered and painted
right over. The few that are opened up, were done with a soldering
iron, and it left "craters," with a little rim around them. Should
those be melted down, burned out, drilled out, sanded down, or what ??
I was thinking of maybe just heating a 1/8" drill bit, to get an exact
size. (??) Just finding all those holes is going to be a beast of a
job. Has anyone else been thru this ?? Ideas, or suggestions ?? On
the next components, the flaps and ailerons, he WILL make sure those
holes are open. This is assuming, of course, that I get far enuf out
of debt, in this lifetime, to go for the next step.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Clay,
#8's work just fine.
Guy S.
MK III Xtra
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 5:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: wire bugs
>
> I am getting ready to rig the tail-wire bracing. The manual suggests
using
> #10 kemies or wire bugs to hold the cable tight around the thimble before
> pressing the nicropress sleeve. I called my Civil Air Patrol/electrician
> friend asking for the electrical cable clamps and he hasn't been able to
> locate ones for the #10 wire. The supply house has sizes #6 and #8
> available, but no one has the #10 size. He is interested in my plane and
is
> still trying to find the correct size for me.
>
> Any suggestions on where to find them or what method did you use? In the
> archives, someone suggested just slightly tightening the Nicopress sleeve
> enough to hold the cable, doing your final adjustments and then
compressing
> the sleeves completely.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
> building Mark IIIXtra
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Vaughn <rvaughn(at)supanet.com> |
Its a C-141
Ron Vaughn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mystery Plane |
This monster roared past on final to Palm Springs
> International, a few weekends ago, and I nearly broke my neck,
> scrambling for the camera. Caused a controversy locally, cause we can't
> get agreement on what it is. I thought C-5, but others say it's too
> small. (??) Some said it's a C-140. What do you guys think ??
I will cast one vote for it being a C-141.
Sam Cox
Http://www.dfwliteflyers.org
Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering
June 22-24, 2001
Sheppard AFB Rec. Annex
Gordonville, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mystery Plane |
I thought C-5, but others say it's too
> small. (??) Some said it's a C-140. What do you guys think ?? Lar.
Lar:
C-141.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
> How long will it be before we are buying spy-plane
>electronics---from The Chinese?
Could be soon I heard they just received a small shipment from the U.S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Feathers |
>
>..I bought Glacier White, and the finished
>job, especially mounted on my Snow White (??) boom tube, looks more gray
>than white.
It can be hard to match white. There's a lot of variations.
Can these little glitches be touched up with a small artists'
>paint brush, or should I find some one with an air brush ??
You may find it easier to start painting touchup with a brush. It is a
lot easier getting out a brush and paint for those little nicks and if you
intend keeping on top of those little annoyances you should get used to
using a brush now. You can also use the paint as "fill" easier than if you
had an airbrush. Who's going to look that close anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: INSTALLING NEW LANDING GEAR |
>causes the gear legs to flex back a little thereby removing the toe-in.
>
>I must admit that my opinion is based on years of building & flying R/C
>models. Any toe-out made them squirrelly[sp.]; a little toe-in cured the
>problem.
All things considered and if you spend 5 days and a hundred hours
getting the toe in / toe out just perfect the first hard landing will
change everything.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 46 Msgs - 04/27/01 |
Carefull about misinformation, the KOLB manual states "NO TOE-IN" and in an
article by Tony Bingelis in Experimenter April 2001, page 46, he states :"
6. Recheck the wheel alignment. A toe in or cocked wheel could lead to
dangerous runway control problems. Strive for a zero toe-in/ toe-out or a
neutral alignment. If you have to deviate slightly, opt for a bit of toe-out
rather than toe-in." end of quote.
Check wheel alignment when aircraft is fully loaded.
It may have a slight toe-in when empty.
Hans van Alphen
building Mark III Extra, BMW powered.
Re: Kolb-List: RE: INSTALLING NEW LANDING GEAR
>I could be wrong, but I believe just the opposite to be true- a little
toe-in
>[2-3 degrees] is desirable. When the plane is moving, drag on the wheels
>causes the gear legs to flex back a little thereby removing the toe-in.
>
>I must admit that my opinion is based on years of building & flying R/C
>models. Any toe-out made them squirrelly[sp.]; a little toe-in cured the
>problem.
>
>Flame away...
>
>Howard Shackleford
>FS I
>SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Peer <quick503(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mystery Plane |
--- larrybiglar wrote:
>
>
> Do Not
> Archive
>
> Not Kolb related, but airplane, for sure. Please
> bear with me, I've
> been good lately. This monster roared past on
> final to Palm Springs
> International, a few weekends ago, and I nearly
> broke my neck,
> scrambling for the camera. Caused a controversy
> locally, cause we can't
> get agreement on what it is. I thought C-5, but
> others say it's too
> small. (??) Some said it's a C-140. What do you
> guys think ?? C'mon
> you ex-military types. John...............??
> Click on the link
> below. Lar.
>
>
Actually it's a C-141B. One of the few not painted
green. Got a lot of hours in those things as a flight
engineer. Great airplane. I remember throwing a
freesebee in an empty cargo compartment at 41,000
feet. Relative to the ground that was one fast
freesebee!
Mike
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Eugene, I would like to here more about your glass gear. Would you care
> to elaborate. I might want some for my firefly if they arent to heavy.
> Ed Diebel
>
Hi Ed,
I replaced the tapered aluminum legs with straight slightly longer
fiberglass spring rod and made new axle fittings to fit the bottom of
the rods. The product name is called "Extren" or something, if I recall
correctly, and is sold at Ain Plastics Inc. It is only two thirds as
heavy as aluminum, one fourth as heavy as steel.
It is very resilient and has high strength to weight ratio. On my
firestar I have the go cart type drum brakes with the typical out of
round drums which can at times cause a fore and aft oscillation of the
wheels at certain roll-out speeds. I much prefer the fiberglass to
aluminum, but I don't know how the newer steel gear would compare.
Eugene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
I had asked a question about the elevator play I had noticed as I started
rigging the tail feathers. Nobody responded, so I checked the bolts today
and the package that said AN5-23A contained bolts that are AN4-23A. I
didn't believe that the play was correct, but I thought maybe it had a
purpose or that after fitting the bushing and tightening the elevator
control bolt it would be eliminated. Kolb had also sent AN6-70A instead of
AN8-70A bolts for lift strut attachment. I have already returned them and
exchanged them for the proper size. MEASURE YOUR BOLTS OUT OF THE PACKAGE.
I checked the others and they seem to be correct, but I am going to double
check everything.
In regards to the tail bracing (thanks to everyone who responded about the
wire bugs), I have used John Hauck's idea of turnbuckles on the wires, but
with clip-locking turnbuckles as suggested by Roddy in Cincinnati. This
eliminates the need for safety wires and would seem to be much handier and
quicker. I think Roddy and I are going to use the same turnbuckles on the
turnbuckles on the control wires. The turnbuckles are in Aircraft Spruce
and are called MS clip-locking turnbuckles assemblies. If someone wants
specific part numbers I can forward what Roddy sent me.
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
building Mark IIIXtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator play |
Sorry, Clay............I guess we all focussed on the wire bugs, and forgot
the other. I'm going to take a quick look at the "Clip Locking
Turnbuckles." Sounds interesting, and I guess I missed that post.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 1:17 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: elevator play
>
> I had asked a question about the elevator play I had noticed as I started
> rigging the tail feathers. Nobody responded, so I checked the bolts today
> and the package that said AN5-23A contained bolts that are AN4-23A. I
> didn't believe that the play was correct, but I thought maybe it had a
> purpose or that after fitting the bushing and tightening the elevator
> control bolt it would be eliminated. Kolb had also sent AN6-70A instead
of
> AN8-70A bolts for lift strut attachment. I have already returned them and
> exchanged them for the proper size. MEASURE YOUR BOLTS OUT OF THE
PACKAGE.
> I checked the others and they seem to be correct, but I am going to double
> check everything.
>
> In regards to the tail bracing (thanks to everyone who responded about the
> wire bugs), I have used John Hauck's idea of turnbuckles on the wires, but
> with clip-locking turnbuckles as suggested by Roddy in Cincinnati. This
> eliminates the need for safety wires and would seem to be much handier and
> quicker. I think Roddy and I are going to use the same turnbuckles on the
> turnbuckles on the control wires. The turnbuckles are in Aircraft Spruce
> and are called MS clip-locking turnbuckles assemblies. If someone wants
> specific part numbers I can forward what Roddy sent me.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> building Mark IIIXtra
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Feathers |
Thanks Merle: I got them sorted out today, and toward the end, after
lots of handling, I could see what your method would
do.............kinda like putting a sheet of paper over a coin, and
rubbing it with a pencil. He got my horizontal stabilizers mixed up,
and put the drain holes on the tops, so back they go. We had a good
laugh about it. Also........you pro's out there..................seems
like the white paint flakes and chips soooooo easy. Just bump it. It's
been curing for over a week in 80 - 90 deg. weather, so shouldn't it be
tougher than that ?? No way this stuff's gonna last 15 or more years if
it falls apart by breathing on it. Whaaaaa..........?????
Puzzled Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: Go5for4(at)aol.com
To: larrybiglar(at)msn.com
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tail Feathers
I found that rubbing over the place you think the holes are hard with
a cloth
under your thumb will make them show up.
Just finding all those holes is going to be a beast of a
job. Has anyone else been thru this ?? Ideas, or suggestions ??
On
the next components, the flaps and ailerons, he WILL make sure those
holes are open
Merle Hargis at Orlando, Fl.
flying Twinstar building Firefly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Singer <hp2693(at)cmuonline.net> |
Not Kolb related, but airplane, for sure. Please bear with me, I've
been good lately. This monster roared past on final to Palm Springs
International, a few weekends ago, and I nearly broke my neck,
scrambling for the camera. Caused a controversy locally, cause we can't
get agreement on what it is. I thought C-5, but others say it's too
small. (??) Some said it's a C-140. What do you guys think ?? C'mon
you ex-military types. John...............?? Click on the link
below. Lar.
It's a C-141 but I don't know the new designator on the end. They
started extending them about 20 years ago just after I got out of the
Air Force. Makes them look really big.
Which engine oil do I plan on using ?? Wellll............... so
far, it looks like AeroShell 100, but that's not final yet. Suggestions
??
Lar.
Don't use Aeroshell or any other type of aircraft oil in the VW engine.
It is too thick for the oil system and you will end up ruining your new
prize because the pump and the galleries aren't made for that thickness
of oil. VW recommends using a non detergent, single viscosity oil for
break in and then after break in, use a good quality single viscosity
(30 weight) automotive oil like valvoline, quaker state, or what ever
your favorite is. Avoid using synthetic and multi-viscosity grade oils
and don't use racing oil. If worst comes to worst, get the book titled
something like "Idiots guide to rebuilding a VW". There is also another
good one called "How to hot rod your VW". It's kind of dated but good
information. Hot VW's magazine is a good source of engine articles.
The Scat crank is the crank that Great Plains (www.greatplainsas.com)
uses in their VW engine conversions and have proven very reliable.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Hi Eugene,
Thanks for the reply. Question. Would you say that the glass
rods are more forgiving than aluminum? What is the likelyhood of breaking
them. I guess they are more springy
Thanks again,
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Thanks. I have "How to Hot Rod Your VW," so I'll go back into it, and see
what it has to say. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Singer" <hp2693(at)cmuonline.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 8:37 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Larry
>
> Not Kolb related, but airplane, for sure. Please bear with me, I've
> been good lately. This monster roared past on final to Palm Springs
> International, a few weekends ago, and I nearly broke my neck,
> scrambling for the camera. Caused a controversy locally, cause we can't
>
> get agreement on what it is. I thought C-5, but others say it's too
> small. (??) Some said it's a C-140. What do you guys think ?? C'mon
> you ex-military types. John...............?? Click on the link
>
> below. Lar.
>
> It's a C-141 but I don't know the new designator on the end. They
> started extending them about 20 years ago just after I got out of the
> Air Force. Makes them look really big.
>
> Which engine oil do I plan on using ?? Wellll............... so
> far, it looks like AeroShell 100, but that's not final yet. Suggestions
> ??
> Lar.
>
> Don't use Aeroshell or any other type of aircraft oil in the VW engine.
> It is too thick for the oil system and you will end up ruining your new
> prize because the pump and the galleries aren't made for that thickness
> of oil. VW recommends using a non detergent, single viscosity oil for
> break in and then after break in, use a good quality single viscosity
> (30 weight) automotive oil like valvoline, quaker state, or what ever
> your favorite is. Avoid using synthetic and multi-viscosity grade oils
> and don't use racing oil. If worst comes to worst, get the book titled
> something like "Idiots guide to rebuilding a VW". There is also another
> good one called "How to hot rod your VW". It's kind of dated but good
> information. Hot VW's magazine is a good source of engine articles.
> The Scat crank is the crank that Great Plains (www.greatplainsas.com)
> uses in their VW engine conversions and have proven very reliable.
> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 912 Idle Speed & Carb Sync |
Dear list,
I looked back in the archives for what the best setting is for the idle speed
of the 912. The Rotax book says 1400 rpm but that is a little rough. I
think it was Tom Swartz that mentioned that 1600 is the minimum due to strain
on the gear box. I guess that was what I was feeling at 1400.
Also could use some help with the best methods for sync'ing the carbs. Now
that I have fiddled with them, need to check it. I was showing about 100
degree difference in the EGT. That could be probe placement.
I moved N308JB to the airport last Sunday. I'm having seperation anxiety.
After nearly 3 years, I go in my shop and try to figure out what is missing.
I turned my paperwork in to the FSDO and waiting on an appointment. Spent
the day yesterday (Saturday) going nose to tail checking everything and
making adjustments.
The wind died down around 5:00 pm and decided to taxi test. This was the
first time I cranked the engine and she wasn't tied down. Well the idle RPM
was around 2150 and she just wanted roll and even pick up speed. Shutdown
and started making adjustments to get the idle speed down. Now it is too low
I think becuase sure is rough around 1400 rpm. Anyway, did a couple of slow
taxi's up and down the grass runway (2500'). If I feel this excited just
taxiing, I'm going to have problems when the first flight comes. She wants
to fly. First flight report should be posted soon.
Thanks for any help and for all the help in the past to get me to this point.
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Mark III - 912
N308JB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
I don't think the problem is the product, since we used the Stits - Poly
Fiber process all the way, and the PolyTone paint system has an excellent
reputation. We're supposed to get together today, and try to figure it out.
One small area is peeling a bit, for about 2", so I suspect contamination
from dirty fingers. While I was opening up the rivet holes yesterday,
I got to experimenting, and came up with this................. Mounted
a sewing needle in the end of a 3" wooden dowel, and started probing. When
I found 1 hole, I knew about where the others should be, and opened some of
those up, too. When I did the drilling on the hinges, I did it freehand, so
the holes aren't "precisely" the same spacing, tho' they're all on the line,
so the hinges vary just a bit. They're all marked for location and
orientation, so with 1/2 dozen or so holes opened up, did some mixing and
matching with the hinges, and cleco-ed them in place. Then it was easy to
find the rest of the holes with an awl. To open them, found that it worked
best to 1st drill the hole out, then used a 1/8" tip on a wood burning tool
to melt the remaining material. Found that going slow, and giving it time
to thoroughly melt eliminated lumps of hardened goo on the inside, that were
preventing some rivets from seating properly. The side of the hot tip,
carefully applied, smoothed down the external 'craters', then melted the
hole out again. Never went thru the silver, and left things flat and
smooth. Sounds easy, but it took several hours, and nearly wore the end off
my tongue. Resurrected some of the language I learned during my logging
days, too. Hope this helps someone else out there.
Shaky Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "slyck" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 4:21 AM
Subject: paint
> Lar, what kind of paint is that? --the stuff that chips, so I'll know
> what NOT to use. If you want to give it toughness, Aerothane
> over the top will do it, although -- more weight. Bob B., NY
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Axles |
From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MK III gear
Hi Eugene,
Thanks for the reply. Question. Would you say that the
glass
rods are more forgiving than aluminum? What is the likelyhood of
breaking
them. I guess they are more springy
Thanks again,
Ed
I have fiberglass axles on my Powered Parachute, it weighs about 300 lbs. I can
stand on the axle and jump on it and it barely bows, but when I taxi or land
I can feel the smoothness of them , I'm still buiding my FSII, I'll go with the
"stock" gear for now , But first problem and I think I'll go to the fiberglass
( I think corvette is using them in their rear suspention too ) Gotta
Fly...
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | My cayuna's are at risk with the Cayuna |
Greetings All and I want to thank everyone for all the help and info for
the Ultrastar I finally flew last week. It flies very well but the
Cayuna UL2011 is a problem. My temps are too high . I can't leave the
power at full throttle for very long or it red lines-1275- real quick
and cht is 375. Rpm is 5900 at static but I have a Culver Wood 50x36
that came with it when I purchased it.I have already changed the jets in
the brand new Mikuni 32VM to the next bigger main -310- pilot 35 and
moved the clip on the needle to richer. Once I break ground I come back
to 4400 and climb slowly but it does remarkably well for this RPM. My
temps at this rpm are 1200 and 325 but at a brisk 45F air temp.Level it
indicates 65mph verified by a friend in a Challenger with a known
indicator. Here's the unbelievable part...80mph at 5500 Rpm but I think
the temps will go over max if I left it for a while.It seems to get on a
step with the higher rpm and the new nose pod may be blocking air to the
fan. I think the only reason it is running this cool is the outside
temps here in wesrern NY.....frost this AM...This engine was overhauled
15 hours ago and I am wondering about a possible air leak. But there is
another question and that is the prop. Will a 50x30 prop, that is
suppose to be on it, decrease my temps so I might be able to run higher
rpm and a slower airspeed. I haven't done any mods on the cylinder head
or cut the fan supports to open up the airflow yet. Thanks , Ed Steuber
You Ultrastar Experts were right , it flies great
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My cayuna's are at risk with the Cayuna |
Ed,
You have the symptoms of an over proped engine. I personally would not
consider flying my Cuyuna with EGT's of 1200. 1050 full power & 1150 cruise
will keep that engine healthy. If you it is possible to bring the EGT down
with bigger main jet, you probably will have such a load on the engine that
the CHT's will go out of sight. Variable pitch prop sure would make it
easy.
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 12:43 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: My cayuna's are at risk with the Cayuna
>
> Greetings All and I want to thank everyone for all the help and info for
> the Ultrastar I finally flew last week. It flies very well but the
> Cayuna UL2011 is a problem. My temps are too high . I can't leave the
> power at full throttle for very long or it red lines-1275- real quick
> and cht is 375. Rpm is 5900 at static but I have a Culver Wood 50x36
> that came with it when I purchased it.I have already changed the jets in
> the brand new Mikuni 32VM to the next bigger main -310- pilot 35 and
> moved the clip on the needle to richer. Once I break ground I come back
> to 4400 and climb slowly but it does remarkably well for this RPM. My
> temps at this rpm are 1200 and 325 but at a brisk 45F air temp.Level it
> indicates 65mph verified by a friend in a Challenger with a known
> indicator. Here's the unbelievable part...80mph at 5500 Rpm but I think
> the temps will go over max if I left it for a while.It seems to get on a
> step with the higher rpm and the new nose pod may be blocking air to the
> fan. I think the only reason it is running this cool is the outside
> temps here in wesrern NY.....frost this AM...This engine was overhauled
> 15 hours ago and I am wondering about a possible air leak. But there is
> another question and that is the prop. Will a 50x30 prop, that is
> suppose to be on it, decrease my temps so I might be able to run higher
> rpm and a slower airspeed. I haven't done any mods on the cylinder head
> or cut the fan supports to open up the airflow yet. Thanks , Ed Steuber
> You Ultrastar Experts were right , it flies great
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | horizontal stab brackets |
Went flying with a friend today in his Cardinal RG. Since I am a licensed
pilot (but not current), I qualify as a safety pilot while he practices
instrument approaches with his "Foggles" on. I go up with him about once a
month.
He is a very meticulous person (PhD-professor in physics at Centre College)
and is somewhat skeptical of my experimental aircraft. He came over to
check my progress and he was surprised with the quality of the kit.. He did
express some concern, however, which I have also wondered about, with the
horizontal stabilizer attachment to the fuselage tube. Has there ever been
any problem with the six rivets and L-brackets that hold this all together?
Everything else, so far, seems over-engineered on the Mark IIIXtra except
this connection.
What do you think?
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
ailerons and flaps to go on kit #1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: INSTALLING NEW LANDING GEAR |
>
>When installing new landing gear, what is the best way of lining the
>wheel and axle bracket up where the wheel will track straight??
>
For my Firefly, I used a different approach than has been described. I
slipped the legs into the sockets, drilled the hole through the leg,
inserted the bolt, screwed on and tightened the nut. Then I slipped the
axle and gear bracket onto the bottom of the legs. Next I slide the wheels
onto the axles. (I used the four inch wheels and the axles are 3/4 inch
tubes.) To keep everything straight, I constructed a two by four cage so
that I could keep the wheels parallel to each other and the fuselage center
line. I actually clamped the wheels to the two by fours to guarantee they
stayed in alignment as I drilled the hole through the steel tube bracket
and the aluminum leg. The bolt was passed through the hole and the nut
screwed on and tightened. By doing this you can be sure that your wheels
have no toe in or out. But this does not guarantee that the wheel camber
(sidewise tilt of the wheel) is correct.
In my case, I did not adjust the camber for some time, and I found my
Firefly to be very squirrelly on the ground (I fly off a concrete strip).
To adjust the camber, I placed four 50 pound bags of child's play sand in
the seat because I weigh 200 pounds and the gas tank was full. Next I
rolled the plane forward and backward a few inches to let the landing gear
flex and find its normal loaded position. Using a torpedo level vertically
across the outside of the wheel I checked the camber. I found that both of
my wheels were tilted in at the top. To adjust the camber, I slipped off
the wheel and placed the axle on a six inch square block of wood, so that
most of the axle portion was exposed over the edge. Then I slipped a six
foot piece of one inch galvanized water pipe over the axle and bent the
axle down just a little bit. Then the wheel was replaced, the plane rolled
back and forth, etc. and the process repeated until the outside top of the
wheel was out about 1/16 of an inch out more than at the bottom.
The above takes some time, but the results are well worth it. By doing so,
the gear is set for its normal maximum weight takeoff condition. I have
found that all of the unexpected darting side to side while taxiing or
taking off and landing in cross winds has disappeared. Just slight rudder
movements keep it straight.
I hope this helps.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: horizontal stab brackets |
My Hummer used those exact same kind of stainless L-brackets for the
elevator hinges, and when I sold it after 13 years and almost 600 hours,
there was almost zero wear and no flex or play. It had worn out several
3/16" clevis pins that went through them, but that's no big deal, that's
what annuals are for. The Maxair Drifter used those brackets for aileron
hinges with no problems. Those L-brackets rivited to tubing with stainless
rivits have been around for a long time and are a proven commodity, I would
tell him not to worry. Also, it seems to me that the front of the MKIII
horizontal stabilizer is so very narrow that there cannot be much pressure
on it at that end, all the pressure would probably be closer to the hinge
line. Of course, I'm no engineer, but I did stay at Holiday Inn Express once...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Went flying with a friend today in his Cardinal RG. Since I am a licensed
>pilot (but not current), I qualify as a safety pilot while he practices
>instrument approaches with his "Foggles" on. I go up with him about once a
>month.
>
>He is a very meticulous person (PhD-professor in physics at Centre College)
>and is somewhat skeptical of my experimental aircraft. He came over to
>check my progress and he was surprised with the quality of the kit.. He did
>express some concern, however, which I have also wondered about, with the
>horizontal stabilizer attachment to the fuselage tube. Has there ever been
>any problem with the six rivets and L-brackets that hold this all together?
>Everything else, so far, seems over-engineered on the Mark IIIXtra except
>this connection.
>
>What do you think?
>
>Thanks,
>Clay Stuart
>ailerons and flaps to go on kit #1
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Home Depot, or any electrical supply or good hardware.
I never heard of these names but what your looking for is electrical wire
clamps used for making splices or splices ons of larger gage wire. There
look like a bolt with slot cut in them, they have a clamp block the slides
in the slot, and nut. There normally copper and come in different
sizes. Buy the size with the slot the dia. of your cable. When using do
not over tighten on aircraft cable so as to nick or deform them. Lightly
tighten with a wrench, that is lightly. They work great.
jerryb
>
>I am getting ready to rig the tail-wire bracing. The manual suggests using
>#10 kemies or wire bugs to hold the cable tight around the thimble before
>pressing the nicropress sleeve. I called my Civil Air Patrol/electrician
>friend asking for the electrical cable clamps and he hasn't been able to
>locate ones for the #10 wire. The supply house has sizes #6 and #8
>available, but no one has the #10 size. He is interested in my plane and is
>still trying to find the correct size for me.
>
>Any suggestions on where to find them or what method did you use? In the
>archives, someone suggested just slightly tightening the Nicopress sleeve
>enough to hold the cable, doing your final adjustments and then compressing
>the sleeves completely.
>
>Thanks,
>Clay Stuart
>Danville KY
>building Mark IIIXtra
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "plane" <plane(at)atomic.net> |
| Subject: | SANDBLASTING air compressor for sale |
I have two 80 cfm gas powered air compressors for sale. they are great for
sandblasting and panting, you never have to wait for your air to build back
up. they are powered by a 4 cyl gas engine, trailer mounted. just the right
size for blasting cages and other parts. one is in very good condition for
800.00 and the other has a oil leak but runs good for 475.00 located in NC.
new cost about 3500.00
Randy soobydoo In NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
I need some help from all you Kolbers out there. I installed a nose
mounted, removable pitot tube on my Firestar. It formerly had a side mounted
venturi, now my ASI does not work. Did I screw up and use the wrong pick up
with my gauge?
The Flying Farmer
-----Original Message-----
From: larrybiglar [mailto:larrybiglar(at)msn.com]
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: wire bugs
These are just a temporary clamp, Clay, so I don't think it's really
critical. I'd go ahead with the #8 kerneys, and if they don't tighten enuf,
put a couple of short lengths of wire in with it, as a filler. Biggest
no-no, is to be real careful not to nick, or kink your cable. If you do,
don't fool with it, get a new piece.........it's not that expensive, and a
broken tail brace wire could really ruin your day.
Cautious Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 5:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: wire bugs
>
> I am getting ready to rig the tail-wire bracing. The manual suggests
using
> #10 kemies or wire bugs to hold the cable tight around the thimble before
> pressing the nicropress sleeve. I called my Civil Air Patrol/electrician
> friend asking for the electrical cable clamps and he hasn't been able to
> locate ones for the #10 wire. The supply house has sizes #6 and #8
> available, but no one has the #10 size. He is interested in my plane and
is
> still trying to find the correct size for me.
>
> Any suggestions on where to find them or what method did you use? In the
> archives, someone suggested just slightly tightening the Nicopress sleeve
> enough to hold the cable, doing your final adjustments and then
compressing
> the sleeves completely.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
> building Mark IIIXtra
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ian Heritch <heritch(at)connecti.com> |
I too could not find the #10, the #8 works fine.
Clay Stuart wrote:
>
> I am getting ready to rig the tail-wire bracing. The manual suggests using
> #10 kemies or wire bugs to hold the cable tight around the thimble before
> pressing the nicropress sleeve. I called my Civil Air Patrol/electrician
> friend asking for the electrical cable clamps and he hasn't been able to
> locate ones for the #10 wire. The supply house has sizes #6 and #8
> available, but no one has the #10 size. He is interested in my plane and is
> still trying to find the correct size for me.
>
> Any suggestions on where to find them or what method did you use? In the
> archives, someone suggested just slightly tightening the Nicopress sleeve
> enough to hold the cable, doing your final adjustments and then compressing
> the sleeves completely.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
> building Mark IIIXtra
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | full-swiveling design? |
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
04/30/2001 09:13:35 AM
All the discussion about landing gear has renewed my interest in a
full-swiveling tailwheel and wider wheel for the Mkiii. It has to be
super-light of course for weight/balance concerns. And the wheel width
must be at least twice the stock boggie wheel I am using, to keep from
cutting into the ground when it is damp. I know TNK offers one but the
price is too high.
Can anyone point me to a detailed reference drawing of a full-swiveling
design? I will machine it myself if I can find a design to help me
understand how they work. I would be very appreciative if anyone could
help me get rolling (bad pun). Thanks...
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi Eugene,
> Thanks for the reply. Question. Would you say that the glass
> rods are more forgiving than aluminum? What is the likelyhood of breaking
> them. I guess they are more springy
> Thanks again,
> Ed
Yes, fiberglass legs are lots more springy. They can be broken but they
usually fail progressively that is, they will break a percentage of
their fibers if over stressed and from that point be obviously weaker
than before. They will break before damage to the cage but will take
more abuse than the aluminum gear without deforming.
Eugene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Something is Wrong |
I am having a fit trying to keep the correct temperature on my iron for
shrinking fabric. The manual says that you should maintain a
temperature within 25 degrees. I have tried four different irons and
they range about 50 degrees between turn on and turn off. I am going to
be band from Wal-Mart if I keep returning their irons. I have tried the
Black and Decker recommend in the manual and it is the same as all the
rest. I set the thermostat, then watch the temperature with my lazer
thermometer. When the iron cools to the temperature I am looking far, I
grab the iron and go like crazy for a few seconds. The iron then cools
off so I have to wait for it to heat up again. I have the elevators and
the horizontal stabilizers covered at this time. Either the manual is
wrong or I haven't found the right iron. If I have to go through this
same procedure when I get to the wings, I will not live long enough to
fly this bird. Any one have any suggestions?
Ron Payne
Building FireStar II
Gilbertsville, KY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hempy <dhempy(at)dlmail.ket.org> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator play |
>
>I had asked a question about the elevator play I had noticed as I started
>rigging the tail feathers. Nobody responded, so I checked the bolts today
>and the package that said AN5-23A contained bolts that are AN4-23A. I
>didn't believe that the play was correct, but I thought maybe it had a
>purpose or that after fitting the bushing and tightening the elevator
>control bolt it would be eliminated. Kolb had also sent AN6-70A instead of
>AN8-70A bolts for lift strut attachment. I have already returned them and
AN8-70A ??? That bolt would weigh about a pound and a half! Sounds
better suited as an axle stub than a lift strut bolt. Are you *sure* they
sent the wrong bolts?
-dave
--
David Hempy
Internet Database Administrator
Kentucky Educational Television - Distance Learning Division
-- (859)258-7164 -- (800)333-9764
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | Something is Wrong |
My $.02 worth. It is my understanding that the fabric shrunk to say 275 can
be heated to 275 a hundred times after that and it won't shrink another
millimeter. I believe the real IMPORTANT thing is that you don't get it any
HOTTER than what you are intending. I think I would use the lazer to make
sure of what the highest temp it would go up to at a given setting and iron
away. Just go over it real good several times so you have a decent chance
of the iron actual being at the temp you are shooting for when you go over
any given spot with it...
Jim and Dondi would be the opinion to go for though...you probably can't
come across something they haven't seen before.
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron or Mary
Payne
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 4:36 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Something is Wrong
I am having a fit trying to keep the correct temperature on my iron for
shrinking fabric. The manual says that you should maintain a
temperature within 25 degrees. I have tried four different irons and
they range about 50 degrees between turn on and turn off. I am going to
be band from Wal-Mart if I keep returning their irons. I have tried the
Black and Decker recommend in the manual and it is the same as all the
rest. I set the thermostat, then watch the temperature with my lazer
thermometer. When the iron cools to the temperature I am looking far, I
grab the iron and go like crazy for a few seconds. The iron then cools
off so I have to wait for it to heat up again. I have the elevators and
the horizontal stabilizers covered at this time. Either the manual is
wrong or I haven't found the right iron. If I have to go through this
same procedure when I get to the wings, I will not live long enough to
fly this bird. Any one have any suggestions?
Ron Payne
Building FireStar II
Gilbertsville, KY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Kolbers, When they first started using dacron, we were told,
"just set it to wool". Although that can be a little warm, you
can temper the effect by ironing through a piece of cotton.
Dacron is safer than the old grade A-- that stuff would keep
shrinking after you painted it to the point of bending the
metal structures. (especially those little metal U tubes over
the cabin on early pipers)
When ironing, to avoid funny puckers, travel AWAY from
the pointy end of the iron. Lots of timid passes are safer
to start with until you get the feel of it.
Bob B. mk3 , m1056 wings & tail, m1072 cage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Something is Wrong |
That has to be a typo....... The temp should be 250 degrees!
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
Ron or Mary Payne wrote:
>
>
> I am having a fit trying to keep the correct temperature on my iron for
> shrinking fabric. The manual says that you should maintain a
> temperature within 25 degrees. I have tried four different irons and
> they range about 50 degrees between turn on and turn off. I am going to
> be band from Wal-Mart if I keep returning their irons. I have tried the
> Black and Decker recommend in the manual and it is the same as all the
> rest. I set the thermostat, then watch the temperature with my lazer
> thermometer. When the iron cools to the temperature I am looking far, I
> grab the iron and go like crazy for a few seconds. The iron then cools
> off so I have to wait for it to heat up again. I have the elevators and
> the horizontal stabilizers covered at this time. Either the manual is
> wrong or I haven't found the right iron. If I have to go through this
> same procedure when I get to the wings, I will not live long enough to
> fly this bird. Any one have any suggestions?
>
> Ron Payne
> Building FireStar II
> Gilbertsville, KY.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Something is Wrong |
ugh.....learn to read Warren. As you can see I am my own worst critic.
I bought a hobby iron and it works really well. Although I have just
being doing a Test panel I made of Scrap Aluminum. It has the KOLB
bumps and all. Practiced on two panels so far and then tore the fabric
off and trying again. I was able to calibrate the iron really easily
with the therm. supplied with the practice kit. My corners just don't
look as nice as the Video shows. I guess Practice will work that out.
If I have to go through a lot of practice panels...I will do it.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
Ron or Mary Payne wrote:
>
>
> I am having a fit trying to keep the correct temperature on my iron for
> shrinking fabric. The manual says that you should maintain a
> temperature within 25 degrees. I have tried four different irons and
> they range about 50 degrees between turn on and turn off. I am going to
> be band from Wal-Mart if I keep returning their irons. I have tried the
> Black and Decker recommend in the manual and it is the same as all the
> rest. I set the thermostat, then watch the temperature with my lazer
> thermometer. When the iron cools to the temperature I am looking far, I
> grab the iron and go like crazy for a few seconds. The iron then cools
> off so I have to wait for it to heat up again. I have the elevators and
> the horizontal stabilizers covered at this time. Either the manual is
> wrong or I haven't found the right iron. If I have to go through this
> same procedure when I get to the wings, I will not live long enough to
> fly this bird. Any one have any suggestions?
>
> Ron Payne
> Building FireStar II
> Gilbertsville, KY.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale - Kolb FireFly |
For Sale Kolb FireFly
First flight mid Dec.-97
Color: Stits - mostly White with Red trim on the cage and tail feathers
Rotax 447 approx. 135 hours since new (Total Time)
Coated exhaust system - looks like it did when it came back from the coaters
(do this if you build one)
IVO - 2 blade prop
6 inch wheels - doesn't work the gear as hard compared to the smaller 5 inch
Mechanical brakes which actually work
Heal brakes - can be easily changed to single hand control if desired
BRS VLS-750 Chute - mounted in wing root area
(750# has higher deployment speed and if ever needed
means you will descend at a slower rate of decent)
Still have soft gap seal to allow wing folding
The soft gap seal cover has been modified to accommodate the VLS chute
Short and Full Enclosures - changes in minutes
Easily removable instrument panel
- all instruments on shock mounted sub panel
- sub panel can be totally removed in about 5 minutes
- very professional looking wrinkle finish - ABS plastic - nice stuff
Grand Rapids Technologies EIS Unit - Super Size
Tach - digital
Dual CHT
Dual EGT
OAT
Compass panel mounted
2-1/4" Airspeed
3-1/8" Altimeter - Sensitive
2-1/4" Variometer - electric very sensitive vertical speed
indicator like used in gliders
2-1/4" G-Meter
Strobe - single stream line head on vertical stab (tail)
Key West Voltage Regular
Additional secondary regular for radio
Set up for ICOM A22 radio (radio not included)
We have invested over $14K plus our time building it.
What would you be willing to pay for a nice FireFly ready to go?
Located in North Dallas Texas area
Asking: $11000.00
Contact Information:
Jerry Bidle Email: jbidle(at)airmail.net Tel.: 972-517-0946
Gary Hansen Email: ghansen(at)airmail.net Tel.: 972-242-1620
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale - Enclosed Trailer |
For Sale Fully Enclosed Trailer
Moving on to my next project need to sell
I got this trailer as a package deal with a Hawk project I purchased.
This is excellent for that person that wants to keep his plane at the local
airport
for small fee compared to expensive hangar rent when you want to work on your
plane at home just tow it there.
Single Axle Fully Enclosed
Tires like new approximately 40 miles on them.
Inside Dimensions
19'-2-3/4" Long Inside lower section,
- angled front section 20'-5-1/4" angle starts 3' above floor
- center of angle is 1/2 distance from ceiling to the 3' mark
6'-2-3/4" Wide Inside
5'-11-7/8" High Inside
Tilt drop rear door with ramp
Angled Front Air Wedge
Color Forest Green out side white inside
Aluminum sheet metal panels
Plywood floor flat all same level entire length
Lights
+-------------------------------------------+
\ ! \
\ ! \ ---- angle
center 20'-5-1/4"
\ ! /
\ ! /
\ ! ! +
\!-------------------------------------------!======
( ) 0
Located in North Dallas Texas area
Asking $1750.00
Contact Jerry Bidle
Email: jbidle(at)airmail.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Something is Wrong |
I agree, this should cover you.
jerryb
>
>My $.02 worth. It is my understanding that the fabric shrunk to say 275 can
>be heated to 275 a hundred times after that and it won't shrink another
>millimeter. I believe the real IMPORTANT thing is that you don't get it any
>HOTTER than what you are intending. I think I would use the lazer to make
>sure of what the highest temp it would go up to at a given setting and iron
>away. Just go over it real good several times so you have a decent chance
>of the iron actual being at the temp you are shooting for when you go over
>any given spot with it...
>
>Jim and Dondi would be the opinion to go for though...you probably can't
>come across something they haven't seen before.
>
>Jeremy Casey
>jrcasey(at)ldl.net
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron or Mary
>Payne
>Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 4:36 PM
>To: Kolb
>Subject: Kolb-List: Something is Wrong
>
>
>I am having a fit trying to keep the correct temperature on my iron for
>shrinking fabric. The manual says that you should maintain a
>temperature within 25 degrees. I have tried four different irons and
>they range about 50 degrees between turn on and turn off. I am going to
>be band from Wal-Mart if I keep returning their irons. I have tried the
>Black and Decker recommend in the manual and it is the same as all the
>rest. I set the thermostat, then watch the temperature with my lazer
>thermometer. When the iron cools to the temperature I am looking far, I
>grab the iron and go like crazy for a few seconds. The iron then cools
>off so I have to wait for it to heat up again. I have the elevators and
>the horizontal stabilizers covered at this time. Either the manual is
>wrong or I haven't found the right iron. If I have to go through this
>same procedure when I get to the wings, I will not live long enough to
>fly this bird. Any one have any suggestions?
>
>Ron Payne
>Building FireStar II
>Gilbertsville, KY.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | You gotta know when to quit ---or---just when I was having |
fun
I think I had already decided to ground the Ultrastar before I read your
reply,Richard,but your input cinched it.And I think I'll take your
advice on a ground adjustable prop....thinking of Warp Drive 50 inch
diameter 2 blade...I was also concerned with gearbox chatter on the Nova
2.04 . I have 3/4 inch play at the end of the 50 inch culver prop so I
disassembled it and found the large gear loose on the splined shaft and
some wear on the gears so it looks like $$$$$$ Gears and large shaft
(literally and figuritivly) . I can hardly wait to find out how much. To
be continued...... Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Eugene ,
Did you turn your glass gear to the original aluminum deminsions
as Kolbs or did you make bushings or did you make them with no taper.
Please tell me about your source for the fiberglass rods & the size you used.
Thanks,
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Something is Wrong |
Ron,
I used a Black &Decker Quick & Easy 365 with the no stick coating .
Worked for me. Seems like it kicked on & off within 20 or 25 degrees of
each other. I used a bimetalic thermometer like you use on the plastic
covering for model planes which is similar in application to the stits. I
got it at WallMart approx 18-22 .00 Hope this helps
Ed Diebel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
I was one of those concerned over the condition of shipments sent by
freight and stressed caution in seeing that everything was there, and
undamaged. That concern came from having worked for 40 years in the
Distribution business. I have seen shipments come in where it was
difficult to find anything in good condition. Boxcars where posts and
beams let go and the entire shipment shifted back and forth so badly
that there was no way to salvage the remains.
In February I told you about receiving Kit #1 of my Mark III Xtra. Well
on April 26th I received Kit #2. I am amazed that this shipment came
clear across the country with absolutely no damage. Not even a
scratch! I attribute it largely to the way the kit was packed.
Although it was a well braced wooden crate, you could see clearly into
it and plainly see the fuselage. All handling of this approximately
5x5x9 foot crate was done with the utmost care.
I congratulate KOLB on the packaging that was done, and on their
thoroughness in seeing that every item was properly listed and double
checked.
There have been some comments regarding the Welds on these fuselages. I
just finished going over every weld on my fuselage and the parts that
came along with it. They were in excellent condition. KOLB definitely
has a first class welder at work when my Kit was produced. (Thank you
KOLB!)
I would without hesitation recommend the work and handling that The New
KOLB is putting into their product. If you are concerned about
anything, and hesitating to buy because of it, Go for it! I am very
happy with my purchase, and this is coming from someone who is not
always the easiest to please.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
KOLB FLYER FOR SALE MUST SELL!! The whole frame is built and ready to
put the fabric on. Has the original engines, Solo, and has never
been finished. Engines have only 30 seconds on them to make sure they
worked but nothing else has been done. I have too many health issues to
finish it or fly it now :-( I would appreciate a call or maybe an email
concerning this plane. I have all original blueprints, info from other
builders, had new hubs built, instead of the aluminum ones. Everything
is in perfect "Original" condition. Price -$2500.00 (FOB) Dr. Randall E.
Cook, Sr. Randy@MN-Internet.Com (320) 245-6780 (320) 838-3824
Contact Randall Cook - MINNESOTA
INTERNET COMMUNICATION SERVICE located Askov MN USA. Telephone: (320)
838-3824.
Fax: (320) 838-3845. -- Posted 28 April 2001 -- Show all Ads posted by
this Advertiser
Found this while doing some net scanning. This might be the way to go
for someone who doesn't want to spend a lot of money. I don't know
anything about the craft.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
Found this for sale while doing a little scanning of the net:
ROTAX 912 0-TIME SMOH SOLD!! THANKS TO BARNSTORMERS!! Early Rotax 912
with large ignition box. 0 Time SMOH. Accessories included. Engine
$5000.00 Contact Eli Lewis located Venice FL USA. Telephone:
941-266-4964. -- Posted 24 April 2001 -- Show all Ads
posted by this Advertiser
Here again I don't know anything about the engine. Just looked
interesting.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Berry <randybassman(at)icqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Something is Wrong |
I attended a very good (and free!) seminar on fabric covering at Sun 'n Fun. The
guy teaching it was from PolyFiber. He even showed us how to preshrink around
corners when gluing. He said to buy an iron that does NOT shut off automatically
(as it sounds like maybe you did). I believe he said his cost like $30
at Walmart.
Most importantly, he said not to go by the temp setting on the iron, but to physically
calibrate it yourself. How? Get a good grade cooking thermometer (up
to 300 degrees at least, put a piece of tape near the dial and to physically
mark where each temp is with a pencil ... starting about 200 up to 300 in 25 degree
increments. He said NOT to guess at the temperature! Also find out where
the "hottest spot" and take the measurement there (which is usually near the
middle of the iron back, back somewhat toward the tip).
He said to start shrinking at 250 and then up to 275 (mostly the temps we were
using in the seminar) ... and even up to 300 if necessary .. but carefully. Much
past that and you are in danger of melting. And yes, he did say that once
you have heated it that much, it will shrink no further ... ever.
BTW, he also recommended a silverstone coated iron ... or next best, a teflon coated
one ... to keep from the glue and stuff sticking to it. He said that any
excess glue will make little black balls that can be easily flicked off the
fabric. Good luck!
Randy
Firestar KXP
SC
-------------------------------------------------------
On Mon, 30 April 2001, "Ron or Mary Payne" wrote:
>
>
> I am having a fit trying to keep the correct temperature on my iron for
> shrinking fabric. The manual says that you should maintain a
> temperature within 25 degrees
Sign up for ICQmail at http://www.icq.com/icqmail/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
For Sale: Ultrastar. Completely rebuilt, ground up. Over 3000 rivets
replaced, all cables, hinges. New drag strut brace installed in wing.
Beefed up wing tips. New wing fold mount. New tires, 2cht/2egt/tach/halls
asi. New zipper wing center section for quick fold. Cuyuna ULII02 w/40hp
belt drive/new prop. White with blue trims. Will send photos. Flys great.
May consider delivery. $5600. Practically a new plane. Ted Cowan.
Alabama. 334-480-0822
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
I have read on this site that many of you as I do use AMCO fuel. Amco
and BP have merged in my area and I guess all over the states.
I wonder what gas we can expect to be gettting now, Amco or BP. I used
Amco because I thought it was the best for my ultralight.
Jimmy
Firefly #35
Southeast, Georgia
JYL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Berry <randybassman(at)icqmail.com> |
The primary reasons I use AMOCO "PREMIUM" gasoline are: (1) it's clear; (2) it's
93 octane (about the highest one can find here without paying an arm and leg);
and (3) the quality seems to be consistent. The primary reason though is the
clear part ... because my old and feeble brain sometimes does not allow me
to recall if I have added oil or not :-) It's easy to tell with clear gasoline
and colored oil ... so I guess you could just look for clear. On occasion,
I have used other brands (like Shell) when I couldn't get AMOCO with good results.
Just be sure to always add the oil immediately ... or better yet, before
ever putting the gasoline in the container.
Randy
Firestar KXP
SC
-----------------------------------------------------
On Tue, 01 May 2001, JIMMY HANKINSON wrote:
>
>
> I have read on this site that many of you as I do use AMCO fuel. Amco
> and BP have merged in my area and I guess all over the states.
> I wonder what gas we can expect to be gettting now, Amco or BP. I used
> Amco because I thought it was the best for my ultralight.
>
> Jimmy
> Firefly #35
> Southeast, Georgia
> JYL
>
>
Sign up for ICQmail at http://www.icq.com/icqmail/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ian Heritch <heritch(at)connecti.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Something is Wrong |
I don't think you will ever find an iron that meets the Poly Fiber specs.
If I remember correctly, Jim & Dondi told me to calibrate the iron so that
the max temp was about 10-15 degrees hotter than your target. Their feeling
was that when you use the iron, as opposed to letting it sit in one place
when calibrating, the temps swing will be much less.
At that point I stopped traveling to Target to find the perfect iron. I
have had no problems using this method. Just calibrate your iron and go.
Highly reccomend the small hobby iron Jim & Dondi sell, it is a nice size
for the detail work with the tapes and the thermostadt is far more accurate
than the larger irons.
Ian Heritch
Slingshot 912, covering the cage
Ron or Mary Payne wrote:
>
> I am having a fit trying to keep the correct temperature on my iron for
> shrinking fabric. The manual says that you should maintain a
> temperature within 25 degrees. I have tried four different irons and
> they range about 50 degrees between turn on and turn off. I am going to
> be band from Wal-Mart if I keep returning their irons. I have tried the
> Black and Decker recommend in the manual and it is the same as all the
> rest. I set the thermostat, then watch the temperature with my lazer
> thermometer. When the iron cools to the temperature I am looking far, I
> grab the iron and go like crazy for a few seconds. The iron then cools
> off so I have to wait for it to heat up again. I have the elevators and
> the horizontal stabilizers covered at this time. Either the manual is
> wrong or I haven't found the right iron. If I have to go through this
> same procedure when I get to the wings, I will not live long enough to
> fly this bird. Any one have any suggestions?
>
> Ron Payne
> Building FireStar II
> Gilbertsville, KY.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Firestar II Trailer.......thumbs |
I am just beginning to look for a trailer for my Firestar II. Are there
places that make these things? I am lookin for a trailer where I can
transport and store the plane, so I want an enclosed one. If I had to have
one made, what would the cost be for such a critter?
Thanks
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Dear Kolb Gang -
In trying to answer JIMMY HANKINSON's question last week on wheel alignment,
I offered the piece of advice telling that toe-out is better than toe-in, if
you aren't able to achieve perfect alignment. I've read a few replies
suggesting the opposite is true.
I do not want to be posting incorrect advice on this List. If the majority
of folks' experiences tell that toe-in is better than toe-out, then by all
means, Mr Jimmy, go with that. That is the beauty of a List like ours - we
can all draw from the collective smarts and "been there" of our more
experienced Kolb builders and flyers. Dozens of my own construction
questions over the past couple years were answered by asking the questions
on this very List, and collecting the suggestions offered from all you guys.
It's been a tremendous help for me.
In my case, it's too late. My axle fittings did not quite line up, so I
ended up bolting them on in a slight toe-out position. But this is how the
instructions said to do it, so I was just passing this info along. On pg 9
of the plans booklet (for the Mark-3), on installing axle fittings, is
specifically says, "If you must err, err on the side of toe-out." So that's
what I did - we'll see how my bird handles on taxi when I get there! Did
anyone else do this?
Keep asking your questions - this is the right place!
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, almost finished
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "info" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
From: JIM
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 11:08 AM
Subject: Sun-'n-Fun
Hi Kolbers!
We had a great time at Sun-'n-Fun this year, teaching at the Fabric
workshop!!
By the way, Randy, that was me (Jim) teaching the course when you
attended.......
If anyone has any questions, please don't hesitate to call us!
Thanks, Jim & Dondi Miller
*****************************************************
Randy Berry
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Something is Wrong
I attended a very good (and free!) seminar on fabric covering at Sun 'n
Fun. The guy teaching it was from PolyFiber. He even showed us how to
preshrink around corners when gluing. He said to buy an iron that does
NOT shut off automatically (as it sounds like maybe you did). I believe
he said his cost like $30 at Walmart.
Most importantly, he said not to go by the temp setting on the iron, but
to physically calibrate it yourself. . He said NOT to guess at the
temperature! Also find out where the "hottest spot" and take the
measurement there (which is usually near the middle of the iron back,
back somewhat toward the tip).
BTW, he also recommended a silverstone coated iron ... or next best, a
teflon coated one ... to keep from the glue and stuff sticking to it.
He said that any excess glue will make little black balls that can be
easily flicked off the fabric. Good luck!
Randy
Firestar KXP
SC
****************************************************************************************
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.aircrafttechsupport.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob n." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Winchester VA Fly-In |
EAA Ch 186 will have their Spring Fly-In at Winchester, VA (OKV,
N38-08.61, W078-08.66, 2 mi. S of intersection
I-81 and 522) May 19-20. Pancake breakfast 8-11AM. Hot air balloon
launch, Fly-market, Kids' activities, Demos, Ongoing events. OKV is
UL-friendly-- will have separate section for ultralights, both legal and
fat. Judging optional.
AWOS 124.85, Unicom 122.7, Ground 121.75. FMI: www.eaa186(at)netscape.net
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob n." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Got my .orgs and .nets ge-mixed. For more info: www.eaa186.org or eaa186.netscape.net
*yer the sorriest kay-det ah eveh seen*
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Alignment |
You are absolutely correct!
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM wrote:
>
>
> Dear Kolb Gang -
>
> In trying to answer JIMMY HANKINSON's question last week on wheel alignment,
> I offered the piece of advice telling that toe-out is better than toe-in, if
> you aren't able to achieve perfect alignment. I've read a few replies
> suggesting the opposite is true.
>
> I do not want to be posting incorrect advice on this List. If the majority
> of folks' experiences tell that toe-in is better than toe-out, then by all
> means, Mr Jimmy, go with that. That is the beauty of a List like ours - we
> can all draw from the collective smarts and "been there" of our more
> experienced Kolb builders and flyers. Dozens of my own construction
> questions over the past couple years were answered by asking the questions
> on this very List, and collecting the suggestions offered from all you guys.
> It's been a tremendous help for me.
>
> In my case, it's too late. My axle fittings did not quite line up, so I
> ended up bolting them on in a slight toe-out position. But this is how the
> instructions said to do it, so I was just passing this info along. On pg 9
> of the plans booklet (for the Mark-3), on installing axle fittings, is
> specifically says, "If you must err, err on the side of toe-out." So that's
> what I did - we'll see how my bird handles on taxi when I get there! Did
> anyone else do this?
>
> Keep asking your questions - this is the right place!
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-3, almost finished
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Jimmy and Gang,
FYI the major difference in the gasolines is the additives that each
company puts in their gas. I work for a large oil company and we have in the
past loaded Exxon, Shell etc. barges and ships at our wharf. Of course the
gasoline didn't have our additive in it.
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II #1162
----- Original Message -----
From: "JIMMY HANKINSON" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 7:34 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: FUEL
>
> I have read on this site that many of you as I do use AMCO fuel. Amco
> and BP have merged in my area and I guess all over the states.
> I wonder what gas we can expect to be gettting now, Amco or BP. I used
> Amco because I thought it was the best for my ultralight.
>
> Jimmy
> Firefly #35
> Southeast, Georgia
> JYL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Randy and Gang,
Don't know about other parts of the country, but all gasoline down South
is undyed. Our gasoline has a light green tint to it (the gas that we
blend). The Supreme, U/L Plus and Regular U/L look the same other than the
aviation gas with has blue dye added to it.
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II #1162
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Berry" <randybassman(at)icqmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FUEL
>
> The primary reasons I use AMOCO "PREMIUM" gasoline are: (1) it's clear;
(2) it's 93 octane (about the highest one can find here without paying an
arm and leg); and (3) the quality seems to be consistent. The primary
reason though is the clear part ... because my old and feeble brain
sometimes does not allow me to recall if I have added oil or not :-) It's
easy to tell with clear gasoline and colored oil ... so I guess you could
just look for clear. On occasion, I have used other brands (like Shell)
when I couldn't get AMOCO with good results. Just be sure to always add the
oil immediately ... or better yet, before ever putting the gasoline in the
container.
>
> Randy
> Firestar KXP
> SC
>
> -----------------------------------------------------
>
>
> On Tue, 01 May 2001, JIMMY HANKINSON wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I have read on this site that many of you as I do use AMCO fuel. Amco
> > and BP have merged in my area and I guess all over the states.
> > I wonder what gas we can expect to be gettting now, Amco or BP. I used
> > Amco because I thought it was the best for my ultralight.
> >
> > Jimmy
> > Firefly #35
> > Southeast, Georgia
> > JYL
> >
> >
>
>
> Sign up for ICQmail at http://www.icq.com/icqmail/signup.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rafael Rodriguez <rrfrr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Alignment |
discontinue
--- Julian Warren wrote:
>
>
> You are absolutely correct!
>
> Julian Warren
> Eugene, Oregon
>
> Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM wrote:
> >
> Contr SMC/TM
> >
> > Dear Kolb Gang -
> >
> > In trying to answer JIMMY HANKINSON's question
> last week on wheel alignment,
> > I offered the piece of advice telling that toe-out
> is better than toe-in, if
> > you aren't able to achieve perfect alignment.
> I've read a few replies
> > suggesting the opposite is true.
> >
> > I do not want to be posting incorrect advice on
> this List. If the majority
> > of folks' experiences tell that toe-in is better
> than toe-out, then by all
> > means, Mr Jimmy, go with that. That is the beauty
> of a List like ours - we
> > can all draw from the collective smarts and "been
> there" of our more
> > experienced Kolb builders and flyers. Dozens of
> my own construction
> > questions over the past couple years were answered
> by asking the questions
> > on this very List, and collecting the suggestions
> offered from all you guys.
> > It's been a tremendous help for me.
> >
> > In my case, it's too late. My axle fittings did
> not quite line up, so I
> > ended up bolting them on in a slight toe-out
> position. But this is how the
> > instructions said to do it, so I was just passing
> this info along. On pg 9
> > of the plans booklet (for the Mark-3), on
> installing axle fittings, is
> > specifically says, "If you must err, err on the
> side of toe-out." So that's
> > what I did - we'll see how my bird handles on taxi
> when I get there! Did
> > anyone else do this?
> >
> > Keep asking your questions - this is the right
> place!
> >
> > Dennis Kirby
> > Mark-3, almost finished
> > Cedar Crest, NM
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob n." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
From my book, Flying Tales of The Grey Baron, ch 4 comes the following:
Dye-job #1
Now we all know that avgas/avfuel is tinted according to its grade, and
that you should use the proper grade of fuel. And we know that mogas is
most often almost half the price of avgasand that not all users of
mogas have STCs for mogas. Two true tales follow.
At a certain airfield an owner was known to occas
ionally top off his tanks with mogas. A friend from the FAA told him
that when any two grades were mixed, the resultant mixture turned
clear. This worried Mr. Economical, as the field was known for Ramp
Checks. What to do? Now as it was approaching Easter Mr.Es young rug
rats were busy dunking hardboiled eggs in egg dye. A 25 watt bulb
appeared over Mr. Es head: why not use a few drops of bright green dye
in each 5 gallon can of mogas?
Mr. Economical dribbled a few drops into an empty pickled cabbage jar,
sloshed in some gas outa his lawn mower can, and shook thoroughly.
Eureka, or Hoover if you cant afford a Eurekait turned a kinda
greenish. Without waiting for the swirling to stop, Mr. E. hied (olde
Englishe) to the flying field with a full bottle of green egg dye.
Since both tanks were almost empty, Economical made
149
several trips to the local ElCheapo Charlies Gas N Go, filling his
tanks on the cheap. Dumping in a half bottle of dye in each wing, he
secured the caps and launched. All went well, and he was mightily
pleased with his discovery.
But on landing there was the dreaded Ramp Checker, all toothy smiles and
Were here to help you make flying safer. Log books and aircraft papers
please. Alles was in ordnung until a request for a fuel check. Each
wing dutifully dribbled a short shot of bright green, then clear mogas.
The dye was water soluble, and mixing with the usual few drops in the
bottom of the tanks, flowed out bright green, unmixed with the gas.
Dye-job #2
Some many times ago two nearly broke aviators were nursing beers in a
bar on Van Nuys Bl., near Van Nuys airport, each trying to top the other
with tales of business acumen. You can see this any day, any bar, in
California. Look outside in the parking lot at the big dealers cars: no
new Caddies or X-16 Jags, just a small window VOW and a rotted-out Chevy
ragtop. But they have deals, real deals that will bring them Caddies.
As did most anyone above the poverty level, they had pools, and everyone
they knew had poolsand small kids. Yes, they had to lay off the Pool
Man with his weekly vacuuming, but hell come back when the Big Idea
Hits. As with any great invention, its not known exactly how the 40
watt light bulb turned on over No.1s head, but it shown brightly enough
illuminate the end of the bar with the brilliance of Invention.
They immediately left the bar, repairing to a glass container wholesaler
where they bought 500 one-ounce bottles with rubber bulb droppers. In
No.2s garage they
150
located an old Jerry can, rinsed out most of the debris (French for
effluvium) and refilled with plain old driveway hose water. To this they
added one small bottle of Easter egg coloring, pink I think, and sloshed
vigorously. Using a turkey baster they filled the little bottles,
finishing off by gluing hurriedly-made labels fresh out of a copier.
The price was $3.98.
The instructions read: stand on end of diving board while children are
in the pool. Let fall two or three drops into pool while warning pool
occupants that the pool water would turn dark blue in the vicinity of
anyone committing a urinary indiscretion.
It was called PeNoMor. They sold out in a week, clearing over $800 each.
The mists of time dont reveal whether they made another batch, but for
a long time many pools in the Valley were much cleaner. If only they
could have dropped it into The Los Angeles Basin..
bn
http://members.nbci.com/ronoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Alignment |
Page 35 of my FireFly Builder's Manual
"LANDING GEAR LEGS
Attach all landing hear components as shown. Before final drilling, line
up the axles with a straight edge under the airplane. A piece of angle
works well for this. This insures that your wheels will be parallel, as
the pilot holes are just for reference."
With the parts that were supplied it was only possible to get the wheels
parallel front to back. The only way to get them parallel in the vertical
plane (zero camber) was to bend the axles. Preloading of the gear was not
mentioned.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>You are absolutely correct!
>
>Julian Warren
>Eugene, Oregon
>
>Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM wrote:
>>
>>
>> Dear Kolb Gang -
>>
>> In trying to answer JIMMY HANKINSON's question last week on wheel
alignment,
>> I offered the piece of advice telling that toe-out is better than
toe-in, if
>> you aren't able to achieve perfect alignment. I've read a few replies
>> suggesting the opposite is true.
>>
>> I do not want to be posting incorrect advice on this List. If the majority
>> of folks' experiences tell that toe-in is better than toe-out, then by all
>> means, Mr Jimmy, go with that. That is the beauty of a List like ours - we
>> can all draw from the collective smarts and "been there" of our more
>> experienced Kolb builders and flyers. Dozens of my own construction
>> questions over the past couple years were answered by asking the questions
>> on this very List, and collecting the suggestions offered from all you
guys.
>> It's been a tremendous help for me.
>>
>> In my case, it's too late. My axle fittings did not quite line up, so I
>> ended up bolting them on in a slight toe-out position. But this is how the
>> instructions said to do it, so I was just passing this info along. On pg 9
>> of the plans booklet (for the Mark-3), on installing axle fittings, is
>> specifically says, "If you must err, err on the side of toe-out." So
that's
>> what I did - we'll see how my bird handles on taxi when I get there! Did
>> anyone else do this?
>>
>> Keep asking your questions - this is the right place!
>>
>> Dennis Kirby
>> Mark-3, almost finished
>> Cedar Crest, NM
>>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 46 Msgs - 04/27/01 |
I am getting ready to rig the tail-wire bracing. The manual
suggests using
#10 kemies or wire bugs to hold the cable tight
clay
i used some 1/2 inch copper tube wrapped with tape placed
the cabels over the tube and tape... wrapped it with another
wrap of tape then used some small hose clamps.... they
will hold things tight but stil allow for movement....
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Peterson <b1bookie(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II Trailer.......thumbs |
Hi Gary...........went through the experience for the same reason. I ended up
buying a 25 ft. trailor with two axels and the extra height to accomodate the
three blade prop. The trailor totaled out at about seven thousand. Has a slick
skin on the outside for easier cleaning and plywood on the inside for insulation.
The width is a full 6 ft. I fould the best buy was with a production type
company that was willing to make some minor modifications........hope this
helps......Bill
Gary Thacker wrote:
I am just beginning to look for a trailer for my Firestar II. Are there
places that make these things? I am lookin for a trailer where I can
transport and store the plane, so I want an enclosed one. If I had to have
one made, what would the cost be for such a critter?
Thanks
Gary
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Gentlemen:
Anyone have any more info on this accident? See below. As a long
time reader of the NTSB reports one of the odd things I have noticed is that
many aviation accidents are caused by a relatively small problem which the
pilot then makes far worse by overreacting. The great example of this is
doors popping open on take off. Over the years I have read of a number of
accidents where the pilot lost control of the plane at a low altitude while
trying to get the door shut.
And believe me, I have no high horse to get on here. Last week I was
going from Oshkosh to Minneapolis in a brand new 172. Full king panel with
IFR GPS and autopilot. A line of thunderstorms was reported between us and
our destination.We were on top at 6000 and heading west, talking to flight
watch about every 15 minutes.When we started getting close to the line they
told us there was no chance of getting through it, and there were tornados
reported in the area, so we landed in Marshfield, Wisconsin and talked the
FBO into putting the plane in a hangar.It was so windy we had a hard time
getting the doors open.A nice guy gave us a ride into town and we hung
around in a diner for 2 hours while the sky turned black and it rained pretty
hard.
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0After the line moved by the briefers said it was about 1500 and
10
miles all the way home.The freezing level was reported at 5000 and above.
=A0We were solidly in the clouds at 4000.Over eastern Minnesota we started
picking up some ice and requested 3000, but as we went further west the
temperature kept dropping, we asked for lower and pretty soon we were at
2500, which is the minimum safe altitude for that area, in 33 degree air and
still accumulating ice and still solidly IFR.About 30 miles east of our
destination we went through an embedded rain shower and accumulated quite a
bit more ice in just a couple of seconds.That pretty much scared the pants
off of us so we decided to pull the plug and land.Two taps on the GPS
button showed that we were 7 miles from Anoka, Minnesota.
And here's the part where we made our own problems worse. We badly
wanted to get out of the clouds and out of the ice so when we passed the
final approach fix we just pointed the nose down until we broke out at 900
(agl), which was a couple of hundred feet below the minimum descent altitude.
The nervous sounding controler gave us a "low altitude alert". We told him
we had the airport in sight, sort of, and landed uneventfully.
No harm, no foul, I guess. But we were so concerned about ice that we
made a poor decision to get lower than we should have. Another minute or 30
seconds in the clouds at a safe altitude would have been a tiny risk compared
to running into a TV tower. Bad judgment-- created a worse problem trying
to fix a smaller one.
NTSB Identification: DEN01LA085
Accident occurred Wednesday, April 11, 2001 at Brigham City, UT
Aircraft:Young Kolb Mark III, registration: N1225Y
Injuries: 1 Minor, 1 Uninjured.
This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain errors.
Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final report has been
completed.
On April 11, 2001, at approximately 0930 mountain daylight time, a Young Kolb
Mark III, N1225Y, was substantially damaged during a forced landing at
Brigham City Airport, Brigham City, Utah. The private pilot received minor
injuries and his passenger was not injured. The airplane was being operated
by the pilot under Title 14 CFR Part 91. Visual meteorological conditions
prevailed for the local personal flight which was originating at the time of
the accident. The pilot had not filed a flight plan.
The pilot said that shortly after takeoff the airplane began to "vibrate
violently." He reduced the throttle to idle and the vibration became
manageable. He made a 180 degree turn and performed a forced landing to
runway 16. The airplane landed short of the runway and "pancaked in." The
pilot said that the left main landing gear failed and approximately 1/2 of
the tubing in the fuselage cage was subsequently bent.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Yah, that was Boyd Young, and he's fine. His comments should be in the
archives. Sounded like he did a real good job of keeping his cool, and
keeping things under control. It's a shame, too; I visited him last
summer, and his Mk III is a real nice one. Your flight sounds
like a real hair raiser, but I think all of us are guilty of lapses in
judgement at one time or another, so let he who is without sin cast the 1st
stone, eh ?? One day, if anyone's interested, I'll tell about the 2
boneheaded stunts I pulled, a few months apart.........one in Washington
State, the other in Idaho. Shoulda been killed both times.
But..........on reflection........ I believe that at the time(s), I made
what seemed like good decisions - again, at the times. Further events
proved me wrong, but that's how we sometimes gain experience. A friend (??)
in Port Angeles, Wa. likes to say that aviation is the opposite of
school - - - - - here, we get the test..........then, the lesson. I think I
hafta agree with him. Wiser Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 9:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Accident
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> Anyone have any more info on this accident? See below. As a long
> time reader of the NTSB reports one of the odd things I have noticed is
that>
> many aviation accidents are caused by a relatively small problem which the
> pilot then makes far worse by overreacting. The great example of this is
> doors popping open on take off. Over the years I have read of a number of
> accidents where the pilot lost control of the plane at a low altitude
while
> trying to get the door shut.
>
> And believe me, I have no high horse to get on here. Last week I
was>
> going from Oshkosh to Minneapolis in a brand new 172. Full king panel
with
> IFR GPS and autopilot. A line of thunderstorms was reported between us
and
> our destination.We were on top at 6000 and heading west, talking to flig> ht
> watch about every 15 minutes.When we started getting close to the line t> hey
> told us there was no chance of getting through it, and there were tornados
> reported in the area, so we landed in Marshfield, Wisconsin and talked the
> FBO into putting the plane in a hangar.It was so windy we had a hard tim> e
> getting the doors open.A nice guy gave us a ride into town and we hung
> around in a diner for 2 hours while the sky turned black and it rained
prett> y
> hard.
>
>=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0After the line moved by the briefers said it was about
150> 0 and 10
> miles all the way home.The freezing level was reported at 5000 and above> .
>We were solidly in the clouds at 4000.Over eastern Minnesota we start> ed
> picking up some ice and requested 3000, but as we went further west the
> temperature kept dropping, we asked for lower and pretty soon we were at
> 2500, which is the minimum safe altitude for that area, in 33 degree air
and>
> still accumulating ice and still solidly IFR.About 30 miles east of our
> destination we went through an embedded rain shower and accumulated quite
a
> bit more ice in just a couple of seconds.That pretty much scared the pan> ts
> off of us so we decided to pull the plug and land.Two taps on the GPS
> button showed that we were 7 miles from Anoka, Minnesota.
>
> And here's the part where we made our own problems worse. We badly
> wanted to get out of the clouds and out of the ice so when we passed the
> final approach fix we just pointed the nose down until we broke out at 900
> (agl), which was a couple of hundred feet below the minimum descent
altitude> .
> The nervous sounding controler gave us a "low altitude alert". We told
him>
> we had the airport in sight, sort of, and landed uneventfully.
>
> No harm, no foul, I guess. But we were so concerned about ice that
w> e
> made a poor decision to get lower than we should have. Another minute or
30>
> seconds in the clouds at a safe altitude would have been a tiny risk
compare> d
> to running into a TV tower. Bad judgment-- created a worse problem
trying
> to fix a smaller one.
>
>
> NTSB Identification: DEN01LA085
>
> Accident occurred Wednesday, April 11, 2001 at Brigham City, UT
> Aircraft:Young Kolb Mark III, registration: N1225Y
> Injuries: 1 Minor, 1 Uninjured.
>
> This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain
errors.
> Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final report has been
> completed.
>
> On April 11, 2001, at approximately 0930 mountain daylight time, a Young
Kol> b
> Mark III, N1225Y, was substantially damaged during a forced landing at
> Brigham City Airport, Brigham City, Utah. The private pilot received minor
> injuries and his passenger was not injured. The airplane was being
operated
> by the pilot under Title 14 CFR Part 91. Visual meteorological conditions
> prevailed for the local personal flight which was originating at the time
of>
> the accident. The pilot had not filed a flight plan.
>
> The pilot said that shortly after takeoff the airplane began to "vibrate
> violently." He reduced the throttle to idle and the vibration became
> manageable. He made a 180 degree turn and performed a forced landing to
> runway 16. The airplane landed short of the runway and "pancaked in." The
> pilot said that the left main landing gear failed and approximately 1/2 of
> the tubing in the fuselage cage was subsequently bent.
>
>
> Mark R. Sellers
> Kolb Twinstar Mark III
> N496BM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Berry <randybassman(at)icqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Sun-'n-Fun |
Hi Jim,
Obviously, we have an excellent resource in having your knowledge here on the Kolb
List. My congratulations on a great fabric seminar at Sun 'n Fun. Will you
be teaching one at Oshkosh as well?
As you can tell, someone was paying attention (even in that heat) ... I learned
a lot. Hope I didn't misquote you too badly ... LOL
Randy
Kolb Firestar KXP
SC
-----------------------------------------------------
On Tue, 01 May 2001, "info" wrote:
>
>
>
> From: JIM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 11:08 AM
> Subject: Sun-'n-Fun
>
>
> Hi Kolbers!
>
> We had a great time at Sun-'n-Fun this year, teaching at the Fabric
> workshop!!
>
> By the way, Randy, that was me (Jim) teaching the course when you
> attended.......
>
Sign up for ICQmail at http://www.icq.com/icqmail/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II Trailer.......thumbs |
Gary,
My trailer is a Timberwolf and cost about $6,000 new. See a picture of it at:
http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/MHTrailer.html
Or see my Firestar II folded and inside the trailer at:
http://www.execpc.com/~jrjung/Folded.html
I don't keep my plane in the trailer, but if I ever lost my hanger space, I could.
Hope this helps,
John Jung
> Gary Thacker wrote:
>
> I am just beginning to look for a trailer for my Firestar II. Are there
> places that make these things? I am lookin for a trailer where I can
> transport and store the plane, so I want an enclosed one. If I had to have
> one made, what would the cost be for such a critter?
________________________________________________________________________________
There were about half a dozen Amoco stations in my area, but they have all
changed over to Shell. I have always used Amoco Ultimate, but it now appears
unavailable. I am obviously concerned about buying fuel with any type of
additive that will make my Rotax 447 "sick." Has anyone out there
consistently been using another brand of fuel with acceotable results?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II Trailer.......thumbs |
Hi John,
That's my problem. I am movein in a year or so and will run out of my free
hanger space. I would really like to be able to keep the plane in a hanger
set up. I will have to look into that also. A fella just up the road has
one of those covered material things. Looks pretty nice but you can't haul
your plane in it.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II Trailer.......thumbs |
Gary and group,
Here is my input on enclosed trailer selection:
You don't want a trailer that is too light because it will have to be tied
down to avoid be turned over by the wind. Also, light trailers give a harsh
ride to the plane. My trailer weighs 2,000 pounds, and has torsion bar
suspension for a smooth ride. The bad part is the original cost and the size
of vehicle necessary to tow it. With the cost of gas, today, I haven't towed
it to other states, like I originally planned.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Alexander <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
Bklebon4(at)cs.com wrote:
>
>
> There were about half a dozen Amoco stations in my area, but they have all
> changed over to Shell. I have always used Amoco Ultimate, but it now appears
> unavailable. I am obviously concerned about buying fuel with any type of
> additive that will make my Rotax 447 "sick." Has anyone out there
> consistently been using another brand of fuel with acceotable results?
>
My experience, for what its worth....
In just under 300 hours with my current R503, I have burned
Sunoco Ultra 94 almost exclusively. Of an estimated 1000
gallons of fuel used, maybe 20 gallons have been Amoco
Premium. Opting for Sunoco was primarily driven by two
factors.... The big one was the issue of additives in the
winter months (a majority of those offering views on
additives seemed to be that if you have to contend with
these additives for oxygenation because of where you live,
those put in the Ultra 94 were the least harmful) and
farther down the scale of importance was the convenience of
a brand new (clean tanks) Sunoco station on the way to the
field. Using Pennzoil 2 cycle for Air Cooled, have only had
modest carbon build-up.
George Alexander
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II Trailer.......thumbs |
Yeah, the point about blowin over is a good one. Suspention can take care
of the ride but not the wind problem. I have a Dodge diesel so towin isn't a
problem. I sure would like to find a used one but I guess I'm dreamin. I
have a bit of time though. I may be able to convince my wife about a good
heavy trailer to be used for movein and then for the plane storage. That
would actually make sense. Of course the way men think and they way woman
think is a bit different. ;-} Anyway a good used one would be nice. It would
be great to be able to leave the thing at the field on the summer and take
it home in the winter. Also I have nothing to retrieve a downed plane if
God forbid it ever happens. Kinda keeps me close to the field. :-{
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: Full-Swivelling Tailwheel |
On 4/30/01, "Jim Gerken" wrote:
< All the discussion about landing gear has renewed my interest in a
full-swiveling tailwheel and wider wheel for the Mkiii. It has to be
super-light of course for weight/balance concerns. And the wheel width
must be at least twice the stock boggie wheel I am using, to keep from
cutting into the ground when it is damp. I know TNK offers one but the
price is too high. Can anyone point me to a detailed reference drawing of a
full-swiveling design? Thanks... >
Jim -
I, too, wanted a full-swivelliing tailwheel for my Mark-III. I ended up
purchasing one from RANS for $180. It's a nice piece of work - RANS uses
this on several of their aircraft. 3" solid tire, one inch wide. Although
it's designed to be mounted on a 1/4" leaf spring, I was able to fabricate a
simple adapter that attaches it to the end of the solid alum rod. It's a
bit heavier than the stock Mark-III tailwheel unit, but ... it's a REAL,
full-swivel tailwheel. Everything's a tradeoff!
Dennis Kirby
Mk-3, Verner-1400, PoweFin-72, nearly finished
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <PVolum(at)etsmiami.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Full-Swivelling Tailwheel |
I went through the same exercise but ended up getting the one TNK offers
which - although pricey, is a real beauty. If you have looked at one up
close you will understand why it is expensive.
It maintains directional control up to about 30 degrees off center (60 deg.
total), then 'clicks' into full castering mode. When the plane starts going
straight(ish) again, directional control resumes.
I don't regret spending the money.
P.
Subject: Kolb-List: RE: Full-Swivelling Tailwheel
On 4/30/01, "Jim Gerken" wrote:
< All the discussion about landing gear has renewed my interest in a
full-swiveling tailwheel and wider wheel for the Mkiii. It has to be
super-light of course for weight/balance concerns. And the wheel width
must be at least twice the stock boggie wheel I am using, to keep from
cutting into the ground when it is damp. I know TNK offers one but the
price is too high. Can anyone point me to a detailed reference drawing of a
full-swiveling design? Thanks... >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Kolbers,
I buy my fuel at the local FBO as they offer mogas tho at a higher $. But by
law there can be no additives in fuel sold at an airport, plus some of the
money is given to the airport commission to fund improvements at the
airport. I'm hoping to get them to put in a grass strip for us U/Ls.
Geoff Thistlethwaite
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Alexander" <gtalexander(at)att.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FUEL
>
> Bklebon4(at)cs.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > There were about half a dozen Amoco stations in my area, but they have
all
> > changed over to Shell. I have always used Amoco Ultimate, but it now
appears
> > unavailable. I am obviously concerned about buying fuel with any type of
> > additive that will make my Rotax 447 "sick." Has anyone out there
> > consistently been using another brand of fuel with acceotable results?
> >
>
> My experience, for what its worth....
> In just under 300 hours with my current R503, I have burned
> Sunoco Ultra 94 almost exclusively. Of an estimated 1000
> gallons of fuel used, maybe 20 gallons have been Amoco
> Premium. Opting for Sunoco was primarily driven by two
> factors.... The big one was the issue of additives in the
> winter months (a majority of those offering views on
> additives seemed to be that if you have to contend with
> these additives for oxygenation because of where you live,
> those put in the Ultra 94 were the least harmful) and
> farther down the scale of importance was the convenience of
> a brand new (clean tanks) Sunoco station on the way to the
> field. Using Pennzoil 2 cycle for Air Cooled, have only had
> modest carbon build-up.
>
> George Alexander
> http://gtalexander.home.att.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/13/01 3:30:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
swiderskir(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Also Raven Redrive has a Geo Metro
engine redrive that they have laid flat, greatly reducing frontal area &
making it much easier to enclose in a cowling. I will change my turbo
version to lay flat as well.
I spent my last day talking with BRS about how I can mount my chute in
my nose cone so I can get it out of the airstream & at the same time allow
me to move my engine back to get more prop clearance from the trailing edge
of the wing.
I didn't see everything & am probably forgetting quite a bit but this is
about all my fried brain can out put for now. ...Richard Swiderski
>>
Rich...I'm sorry you didn't get a chance to see how ugly I was ..... while at
the Villages south of Ocala, but I just wanted to let you know it was a joy
talking to you on the phone and reading your recent overview of sun and fun
which I missed....Hope to get to it next year though as we will probably go
to the villages in April instead of March.
GeoR38 pilot of "by George the Firestar"
in Akron Oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Alignment |
Dennis, I have been following the posts on toe in & toe out. I tried to get
the wheels on my firefly parallel to each other & think I did. My problem is
that there is no way to adjust the wheel to where it is perpendicular to the
ground that I know of. Mine lean in at the top. Im sure they will lean in
farther with me in it. It has to do with welded axle fitting weldment or
angle of the axle tubes in the frame. Any other firefly builders have this
problem. Or is it a problem.
Ed Diebel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Thank to all that responded to my wheel alignment question. all were
helpful, now another question----What type of fuel lines and clamps are
y'all using?
Jimmy
Firefly #035
447 Rotax
Southeast, Georgia
JYL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
Someone else on the list suggested Oetiker clamps. I tried them and they are
great. Bought the clamps and tool from McMaster-Carr.
-----Original Message-----
From: JIMMY HANKINSON [mailto:jhankin(at)planters.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 1:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel Lines
Thank to all that responded to my wheel alignment question. all were
helpful, now another question----What type of fuel lines and clamps are
y'all using?
Jimmy
Firefly #035
447 Rotax
Southeast, Georgia
JYL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Updated web page |
Over this last winter, N420P has been in the garage getting a bit of a
face-lift, trying to tidy up a few things, trying to get a little more top
speed out of her by streamlining some things. Also the new mods on the flap
handle system, some more detail on how to make the 15 gallon fuel system,
and some other stuff are now up on the web site.
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/index.htm
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hempy <dhempy(at)dlmail.ket.org> |
>
>Thank to all that responded to my wheel alignment question. all were
>helpful, now another question----What type of fuel lines and clamps are
>y'all using?
Tygothane lines. Available from Mark Smith, Lite Speed, and a few
others. Avoid the blue junk.
I use safety wire for clamps. Three or four wraps holds the line
completely, doesn't cut the tube like a worm-screw clamp, and you'll never
run out. Never had a leak.
-dave
David Hempy -- USUA Region 6 Representative (KY-IN-MI-OH)
ASC Trike BFI #BKY56 -- www.BluegrassUltralightGroup.org -- EAA #456510
-- FAA Aviation Safety Counselor -- (c)2001,DBH
Views expressed are solely my own, unless explicitly stated otherwise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Singer <hp2693(at)cmuonline.net> |
Be careful using premium gas in your ultralights. The premium gas we
have here in Missouri has alcohol in it to give it the higher octane
number. I had a Aeronca 7AC with a continental A-65 that was STCed for
auto gas use. I used regular unleaded autogas (with no problems) and
then found a gas station that sold the premium unleaded auto gas for the
same price as the regular so I filled up with it. It was a warm day (90
degrees and high humidity) and I went for a flight. After about 1/2
hour, it started running like it was icing up so I applied full carb
heat. It still ran rough and as I got with in gliding distance of the
airport, the engine sputtered and quit. Since this is a non-electrical
airplane, I tried the mags, checked fuel valve on, made sure the carb
heat was still on, checked full rich on the mixture and set up my
approach for the grass runway (which was downwind but the only choice).
As I crossed the end of the runway, the engine caught and went up to
full power. After about 5 seconds, it sputtered and stopped again. The
landing was made and after it cooled down for about 30 minutes, it
started right back up and ran fine. I drained all of the gas out and
replaced it with avgas and never had another problem. My deduction and
that of my A&P's was that the premium gas caused two problems. First,
gas with alcohol needs a bigger jet because it takes more alcohol per
volume than gas for the same power. Second, alcohol evaporates at a low
temperature and we believe the carb vapor locked. I will never use
premium gas with alcohol in it again in an aircraft. Alcohol will
dissolve rubber carb and fuel line parts too I have been told. Be sure
and read the label on the gas pump to see if it uses alcohol to get the
higher octane rating. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Builder/Pilot Database |
If anyone would like to be included, deleted or recieve a copy of the Kolb
Database (revision 11), please E-mail me directly at dama(at)mindspring.com
Thanks,
Kip Laurie
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack Carillon <pcarillonsr(at)neo.rr.com> |
Listers, I would just like to drop a thank you to who ever suggested
cutting Lexan with a pair or avation snips ,works great! After laying
out a new windscreen for my Firestar II it only took a few minutes to
cut it out, just have to buff the edges smooth and it will be finished
and ready to install. The info on this list is great.
Jack Carillon Firestar II
Akron Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder/Pilot Database |
Please include me in your e-mailing of Database. I am working with a
spreadsheet in MSworks that keeps track of the time I spend working and
what it done. Anything else would be interesting.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
dama wrote:
>
>
> If anyone would like to be included, deleted or recieve a copy of the Kolb
> Database (revision 11), please E-mail me directly at dama(at)mindspring.com
> Thanks,
> Kip Laurie
> Atlanta
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
Bob,
Great post! Here in Michigan we have trouble with alcohol in gas,
especially in the winter. I remember my brother and I both had carb
problems due to this, found out the floats would be attacked by the alcohol,
absorb fuel and drop low in the float bowl. New cars seem to have
"alcohol-friendly" floats (those with carbs). When I get my MkII in the
air, I'll be sure to run pure gas, no alky.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Singer" <hp2693(at)cmuonline.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 4:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Premium gas
>
> Be careful using premium gas in your ultralights.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 05/02/01fuel |
In a message dated 5/3/01 2:56:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com write>
>
> I have been reassured by the technicians at Hess gas , that they do not use
> any alcohol based additives in theie gas. I have been using their 93
> octain in my 618 for 4 yrs now with no problems.
> Fly Safe
> Bob G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
We are going to have a problem here in the south cause the made a rule that
says vertually that a station cannot advertise "not having alki in its gas"
cause it degrades the ones that do and gives them an unfair advantage. So, if
you are looking at the pump for the label, it is not going to be there. Only
the station owner could probably tell you but he probably wont. Good luck.
DO THE ALCOHOL TEST found in your care and feeding of the rotax engine guide.
That is the best advice. Ted Cowan, Alabama.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Full swivel tailwheel ...... |
All this talk about tailwheels , has anybody tried a locking or just a
free swivel. If you have brakes, heel or toe, a free swivel is an option
without having to worry about a cable to the tailwheel to lock and
unlock it. Free swivel will probably recquire some means of dampening
the shaft swivel. ...Flame away....Ed in Western NY (hot?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
A good friend of mine is manager at a big Phillips 66 station and he showed
me the chemical breakdown of every delivery. They get a delivery more
than once a week. The tank monitors water level, fuel temp and amount of
fuel. The chemical analysis verifies octane, additives, and other info
about the fuel. In St. Paul they put in 10% methanol in the winter and 7%
in the summer. Rotax and just about every engine manufacturer indicate 10%
is acceptable. When the tankers are filled the addatives are put in by
computer valves--in the old days they poored in 5 gallon pails of additives
to get the right combination. Ask the manager to see their
documentation--I would be nervoius if they do not allow you to see it. The
most important thing is to try to use fuel from a busy station--old gas
causes problems.
Dale Seitzer
In a message dated 5/3/01 2:56:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com write>
>
> I have been reassured by the technicians at Hess gas , that they do not
use
> any alcohol based additives in theie gas. I have been using their 93
> octain in my 618 for 4 yrs now with no problems.
> Fly Safe
> Bob G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
On 5/02/01, Bob Singer wrote:
< Be careful using premium gas in your ultralights. The premium gas we
have here in Missouri has alcohol in it. I had a Aeronca 7AC with a
continental A-65 that was STCed for auto gas use. I filled up with premium
unleaded auto gas and I went for a flight. After about 1/2 hour, it started
running rough and as I got with in gliding distance of the airport, the
engine sputtered and quit. Alcohol evaporates at a low temperature and we
believe the carb vapor locked. I will never use premium gas with alcohol in
it again in an aircraft. >
Bob, and others -
This exact occurence happened to me while flying my Tri-Pacer back in the
early-90s. Auto gas with alcohol additives caused vapor lock while flying
on a hot day in Arizona. Except the only thing within gliding distance was
a very rough cow pasture in the middle of the Chiricahua Mountains. Banged
up the ol' Tri-Pacer pretty bad - flipped it onto its back after a short,
very rocky landing roll. (Retrieving is out of the bush was a monumental
effort - but that's a different story!) I don't know if the effects would be
the same with two-stroke engines, but this is what happens with alcohol-gas
in 4 strokes. Stay away from it!
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, s/n 300, nearly finished
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Full swivel tailwheel ...... |
I am using one of those tailwheel assemblies like the one Kolb offers, but I
got mine from
aircraft spruce, anyway, I lost a tailwheel spring once in flight and was
unaware that I had,
upon landing, what a handfull during rollout, with all my foot pressure on
opposite brake, there was no controlling doing a doe-nut, ground loop or
what ever you call it, hahahaha. This is just something to
think about installing a swiviling taiwheel. I am still using mine and it
works great, I just don't want to loose another spring, it could have been
disasterous.
John
>
> All this talk about tailwheels , has anybody tried a locking or just a
> free swivel. If you have brakes, heel or toe, a free swivel is an option
> without having to worry about a cable to the tailwheel to lock and
> unlock it. Free swivel will probably recquire some means of dampening
> the shaft swivel. ...Flame away....Ed in Western NY (hot?)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering June 22-24th |
This years Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering is shaping up to be a really big
show. Check it out at
Http://www.dfwliteflyers.org
Thanks
Sam Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
I have a friend here that was a tow boat captain pushing fuel barges on
the rivers here in the mid-west. He gets a big kick when he hears
someone say that Shell is better than Exxon or any brand is better than
another brand. He said that when he pushed up to a refinery to load a
barge the operator would ask him which company was getting that barge.
The operator would then throw a dye tablet into the barge and fill it
up. For the next barge the same thing. If it was going to a different
company, a different color dye tablet was thrown in. The gasoline came
out of the same tank. If you think about it there could not possible be
different refineries for all the different brands of fuel available. A
station may one day get a load of fuel that came from an Exxon refinery
and the next day get a load of fuel that came from a Shell refinery.
The biggest problem is with the different state regulations trying to
control what they think is pollution. Oh well, just a sore spot with
me. Big oil companies.
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rafael Rodriguez <rrfrr(at)yahoo.com> |
discontinue
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Full-Swivelling Tailwheel |
> I went through the same exercise but ended up getting the one TNK offers
> which - although pricey, is a real beauty. If you have looked at one up
> close you will understand why it is expensive.
>
> It maintains directional control up to about 30 degrees off center (60
deg.
> total), then 'clicks' into full castering mode. When the plane starts
going
> straight(ish) again, directional control resumes.
>
> I don't regret spending the money.
>
> P.
After talking to a friend who flies a FS I with one, I purchased the full
swiveling model from Aircraft Spruce (part # L-693 $209 ) . This model is
made to mount to a round rod, although of smaller dia. than on the
Firestars. With a little drilling and a little ream job it fits perfect.
It performs as presented above. The wheel is 4" tall and 1" wide. Only
draw back that I see is that is a little heavy.
Sam Cox
Firestar II #?????? (mystery plane)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Full-Swivelling Tailwheel |
>After talking to a friend who flies a FS I with one, I purchased the full
>swiveling model from Aircraft Spruce (part # L-693 $209 ) . This model is
>made to mount to a round rod, although of smaller dia. than on the
>Firestars. With a little drilling and a little ream job it fits perfect.
>It performs as presented above. The wheel is 4" tall and 1" wide. Only
>draw back that I see is that is a little heavy.
>
How heavy? 3 lbs?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Full-Swivelling Tailwheel |
> >After talking to a friend who flies a FS I with one, I purchased the full
> >swiveling model from Aircraft Spruce (part # L-693 $209 ) . This model
is
> >made to mount to a round rod, although of smaller dia. than on the
> >Firestars. With a little drilling and a little ream job it fits perfect.
> >It performs as presented above. The wheel is 4" tall and 1" wide. Only
> >draw back that I see is that is a little heavy.
> >
>
> How heavy? 3 lbs?
4 Lb I think.
Sam Cox
Lake Texoma Ultralight Gathering
Http://www.dfwliteflyers.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Something is Wrong |
Sounds like the voltage may be unsteady at the outlet you are using. I
brought all the hair dryers down to the garage with me while shrinking fabric
and my iron steadied right up. Some of the youngin's got a little testy, but
they got over it eventually.G.aman FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Randy Berry <randybassman(at)icqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Premium Gas |
How can one know for certain if gasoline contains alcohol? On occasion, I have
noticed little stickers on the pump stating that the gas contains alcohol. Is
that perhaps a federal (or maybe state) law?
How about some of you who work with the petroleum companies, are you aware of such
a law? And you guys who had those alcohol related mishaps, how did you manage
to "stay away" from alcohol laden gasoline forever after?? I know one can
perform the alcohol test, but that sure is a pain every time I go to get 5 gallons
of gasoline :-(
PS. Sticking with my AMOCO premium :-) ...
but it's getting harder to find it :-(
----------------------------------------------------
On >
> On 5/02/01, Bob Singer wrote:
>
> < Be careful using premium gas in your ultralights. The premium gas we
> have here in Missouri has alcohol in it
Sign up for ICQmail at http://www.icq.com/icqmail/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Thanks Richard, I'm sure I'm not the only one waiting to see it. I doubt if
there'll be much new stuff on mine for a while, unless anyone's interested
in building Stich-n-Glue boats. I'm still working - slowly - on getting the
email sorted out on my new domain. Not doing well at all on using the html
web page design stuff. ( Homesite 4.5 - anyone know of any how-to books on
it ?? ) Homestead's easy to use, but the other is a total bafflement.
Well, one bite at a time, I guess. Lar. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: B-17 Flight
>
> I liked it. Your web page and several other good ones I haves seen
> recently have inspired me to update my old web page.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Full-Swivelling Tailwheel |
Sam,
While it may not be as important with the Kolb on the RV's it necessary to
fit of the tail wheel to the tail wheel spring rod as tight as
possible. Heat/cold fit is best to keep it tight. Make sure its aligned
vertically before you drill.
jerryb
>
>
> > I went through the same exercise but ended up getting the one TNK offers
> > which - although pricey, is a real beauty. If you have looked at one up
> > close you will understand why it is expensive.
> >
> > It maintains directional control up to about 30 degrees off center (60
>deg.
> > total), then 'clicks' into full castering mode. When the plane starts
>going
> > straight(ish) again, directional control resumes.
> >
> > I don't regret spending the money.
> >
> > P.
>
>
>After talking to a friend who flies a FS I with one, I purchased the full
>swiveling model from Aircraft Spruce (part # L-693 $209 ) . This model is
>made to mount to a round rod, although of smaller dia. than on the
>Firestars. With a little drilling and a little ream job it fits perfect.
>It performs as presented above. The wheel is 4" tall and 1" wide. Only
>draw back that I see is that is a little heavy.
>
>Sam Cox
>Firestar II #?????? (mystery plane)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | oil injection system available |
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
05/04/2001 07:57:20 AM
I am selling a complete oil-injection system for Rotax engines. I will
sell the entire package complete (not interested in selling only the tank
and bracket alone at this time). I used it for 100 hours on a 582 before
going to premix. It is complete, clean, in gauranteed working order.
Price is half of new, see CPS or LEAF catalog, add it up, make an offer,
first reasonable offer takes it, I pay shipping to US.
Available:
translucent Rotax tank with low-oil sender built-in and cap with safety
lock,
chromed Rotax bracket to allow mounting of tank on front, rear, or side of
503 or 582,
some new hose,
oil pump with banjo-bolt check valves still installed and drive gear,
in-line oil screen (filter),
all the bolts,
throttle-cable splitter and cable to drive oil pump variation,
fittings, some clamps,
you would have to add 1/8" line and clamps to have it all.
Jim Gerken
507 753-2619 evenings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
05/04/2001 08:05:55 AM
What is the diameter of the Firestar tail spring? I am pretty sure it is
3/4" on my Mkiii. I hate spending 209 on it, but if I must, i spose i
will. If I could only get one for a few days for inspection, I could draw
a plan of it and produce one of my own. any offers?...
>After talking to a friend who flies a FS I with one, I purchased the full
>swiveling model from Aircraft Spruce (part # L-693 $209 ) . This model is
>made to mount to a round rod, although of smaller dia. than on the
>Firestars. With a little drilling and a little ream job it fits perfect.
>It performs as presented above. The wheel is 4" tall and 1" wide. Only
>draw back that I see is that is a little heavy.
>Sam Cox
>Firestar II #?????? (mystery plane)
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Premium Gas |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Berry" <randybassman(at)icqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 11:49 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RE: Premium Gas
>
> How can one know for certain if gasoline contains alcohol? On occasion, I
have noticed little stickers on the pump stating that the gas contains
alcohol. Is that perhaps a federal (or maybe state) law?
Go buy your gas at the airport, as I'm told that mogas sold at the airport
is not supposed to have any additives at all.....(alcohol, MTBT's etc.)
Geoff Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Singer <hp2693(at)cmuonline.net> |
| Subject: | Gasoline/alcohol |
Randy, I just don't use premium gas anymore. If I need the higher
octane, I use 100LL but my rotax 277 is running fine on regular. Here
in Missouri and in Arizona where I moved from, they have signs on the
gas pumps that tells what percentage of alcohol is in the premium gas.
Bob
how did you
manage to "stay away" from alcohol laden gasoline forever after??
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Premium Gas |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Randy,
I ran premium gas with ethanol in my 377 for 12 years without any
problems. In the last two years they began offering ethanol-free gas
locally so I decided to switch because I went back to the manual and it
said not to use gas with ethanol in it. The ethanol-free gas may seem to
make the engine run smoother (I have a 447 now), but it could be my
imagination. I would not hesitate to go back to the ethanol gas if I had
to.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
> How can one know for certain if gasoline contains alcohol? On
> occasion, I have noticed little stickers on the pump stating that
> the gas contains alcohol. Is that perhaps a federal (or maybe
> state) law?
>
> How about some of you who work with the petroleum companies, are you
> aware of such a law?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru distributors |
In case anyone's interested, the new Experimenter magazine says Jabiru has
appointed two distributors in the U.S.
They are Jabiru USA in Wisconsin at www.USJabiru.com and Suncoast
Sprotplanes in Florida at www.suncoastjabiru.com.
Rody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T.C. Fox" <tim(at)flyingshepherds.com> |
Due to an unfortunate ground air interface with a new Firestar, I have
some stuff available for anyone interested. The airframe's totaled but I
have a Rotax 503 with the "B" reduction box that had a prop strike. The
warp drive is history but the engine only had 29 minutes on it and
appears undamaged. Of course, with a prop strike you never know. I don't
know what it's worth now but am looking for an offer. I also have a fuel
tank, usable gear and wheels, instruments and a new King KX 97A comm new
(it wasn't in the airplane), a wintip strobe set with power supply and a
HotBox system. Need to sell all and am looking for offers. All the stuff
is in Northern Indiana. Let me know if interested..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
My
> wife and I changed mine in a couple hr.,what do you think of that Hawk?
>
> Take care, Bill Futrell
Bill, Bill's Wife, and Gang:
I think that is great!
Got my kit the other day. How about coming down here, bring
your wife to help, and do mine. :-)
Plan on doing mine when I get to the point that I am
painting the wings. Those days turn into a couple hours
painting, then the rest of the day is spent doing something
else while the paint dries, so I can turn over the wing.
Will be finished covering the left (broken) wing in a day or
two. Then start shooting dope and paint.
Time is flying, but I ain't far behind.
Bill, glad you got your valve spring retainer update
complete.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Premium Gas |
I have been flying a Kolh Mark111 with a 582 since 1992. I have not used
ethanol blended gas that I know of. One of my cylinders has ran a bit
cooler than the other one for some time and I was unsure of the reason. One
of my carbs was dripping gas one day so I and examined the floats and
needles. I checked the float heights and they were right on. After several
attempts at solving the problem I noticed one of my floats almost sinking.
I installed a new float and noticed that it was floating much higher than
the remaining one that I thought was OK. The only alcohol that I use is
gas line antifreeze for winter flying. Someone on this list stated that
alcohol causes floats to sink and that may be what ruined mine. The floats
in the other carb are OK so there must have been a slight difference in the
composition of the floats from one carb to the other. After installing the
new float both cylinders run very close to the same temp.
If my memory is correct, Rotax advises using premium in the 532 only and the
rest of their ultralight motors can use regular gas. I ride a 700 cc
Polaris snowmobile that produces 120 hp and the manufacturer allows regular
gas in this machine. This 700 cc engine produces considerably more power
per cc than our 582 ultralight engines and it runs fine on regular. I have
used regular for over 300 hours in my 582 with no problems. I have heard
that premium fuel has better additives along with higher octane. The
improved additives will probably be more beneficial to our ultalight engines
than the higher octane. These are only my observations, I am not an
experienced petroleum professional. Many of the replies on this topic from
individuals with knowledge of the petroleum industry have been very
informative.
Kim Steiner
Saskatchewan, Canada
> Randy,
>
> I ran premium gas with ethanol in my 377 for 12 years without any
> problems.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Sadly, it sounds like you had a major problem. Hope you're OK.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "T.C. Fox" <tim(at)flyingshepherds.com>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 4:40 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Spare parts
April 18, 2001 - May 05, 2001
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cv