Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cx
May 23, 2001 - June 13, 2001
> website.
> Is the engine already running on Vamouse?
> Frank
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 11:25 AM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 912 carb heaters
>
>
> >
> > Hi Frank, and welcome back. If you like, you could email me the pics,
and
> > I'll publish them on the web, and put the URL's on the List. It could
> save
> > you a lot of sending. Lar.
> >
>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Trailer for sale |
Open trailer for Kolb for sale, $750, NE Florida.
16" wheels, proper lights, yellow flashers, spare tire, etc.
Pictures with plane on it available to illustrate, write me and I'll
get them to you if they don't come thru with this posting.
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
Dear Rody,
I think the curve of the false ribs on the Mark III were discussed before
and someone thought Kolb was using the false rib template from another wing.
After the ribs were riveted in place, I took each false rib and laid it next
to the rib. As you have discovered, it arc is flatter than the rib. I
would take the false rib by the ends with each hand and gently bend it
around my hip or stomach- bend a little and then compare it to the rib on
the spar. After awhile, I could often get the bend correct with just one
try. Then, as I saw on someone's web page, I would clamp a straight edge
near the nose of the ribs and another near the spar to get them aligned
before riveting. I would cleco the leading edge while aligning and drilling
the holes on the spar.
Have you given any more thought to beefing up the wing tip area? The Xtra
has two 1/2" tubing braces at the tip and seems to be quite sturdy to me,
but I don't plan on folding my wings regularly. I wonder if the Mark III
classic has 5/16" tubing for braces throughout the wing bow tip area?
Clay Stuart
almost ready for kit #2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I'm looking for a 582 to replace my 503. Anyone know of any for sale?
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Value of low time seized 582 |
Hi Gang,
The 582 still sits forlornly on the bench but I have been getting the
occasional inquiry about selling it. I know what the components cost new but
am clueless as to the value of a seized but otherwise undamaged engine.
This one has electric start, 3.0 "C" box, dual radiators, hot coated silver
exhaust, original carbs and oil injection. Checking the logs showed a total
time of 180.6 hours.
The front (PTO) piston shows light scoring but no heat. The rear cylinder
hone marks are clearly visible and piston top is clean.
Obviously the buyer would need to replace pistons and should replace the
crank also. Any of you engine guys out there have any idea what a fair value
would be?
Bill George Mk-3 (Awaiting Verner 1400)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: failure delivery to Mike Sharp |
Mike, got a problem sending the trailer pictures to your address !?!
Is it correct with the underscore_1 ??
--- MAILER-DAEMON(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Message from yahoo.com.
> Unable to deliver message to the following address(es).
>
> :
> 64.4.56.199 failed after I sent the message.
> Remote host said: 552 Requested mail action aborted: exceeded storage
> allocation
>
> --- Original message follows.
>
> Return-Path:
>
> The original message is over 5k. Message truncated to 1K.
>
> Message-ID: <20010523164221.32964.qmail(at)web10402.mail.yahoo.com>
> Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 09:42:21 -0700 (PDT)
> From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Trailer for sale
> To: Michael Sharp
> In-Reply-To:
> MIME-Version: 1.0
>
> --0-1371712714-990636141=:32431
> Content-Disposition: inline
>
> Here you go Mike, thanks for asking!
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Michael Sharp wrote:
> > John,
> >
> > I'd like to see a pic or two. I'm almost... complete with a Mark
> III
> >
> > classic..
> >
> > Thanks,
> > mike
> >
> >
> > >From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
> > >Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > >Subject: Kolb-List: Trailer for sale
> > >Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 04:26:06 -0700 (PDT)
> > >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >Open trailer for Kolb for sale, $750, NE Florida.
> > >
> > >16" whe
> *** MESSAGE TRUNCATED ***
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Sharp" <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: failure delivery to Mike Sharp |
Yes the _1 is correct......
Later,
mike
>From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: failure delivery to Mike Sharp
>Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 10:02:01 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Mike, got a problem sending the trailer pictures to your address !?!
>Is it correct with the underscore_1 ??
>
>
>--- MAILER-DAEMON(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> > Message from yahoo.com.
> > Unable to deliver message to the following address(es).
> >
> > :
> > 64.4.56.199 failed after I sent the message.
> > Remote host said: 552 Requested mail action aborted: exceeded storage
> > allocation
> >
> > --- Original message follows.
> >
> > Return-Path:
> >
> > The original message is over 5k. Message truncated to 1K.
> >
> > Message-ID: <20010523164221.32964.qmail(at)web10402.mail.yahoo.com>
> > Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 09:42:21 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Trailer for sale
> > To: Michael Sharp
> > In-Reply-To:
> > MIME-Version: 1.0
> >
> > --0-1371712714-990636141=:32431
> > Content-Disposition: inline
> >
> > Here you go Mike, thanks for asking!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Michael Sharp wrote:
> > > John,
> > >
> > > I'd like to see a pic or two. I'm almost... complete with a Mark
> > III
> > >
> > > classic..
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > mike
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
> > > >Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >Subject: Kolb-List: Trailer for sale
> > > >Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 04:26:06 -0700 (PDT)
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Open trailer for Kolb for sale, $750, NE Florida.
> > > >
> > > >16" whe
> > *** MESSAGE TRUNCATED ***
> >
>
>
>=====
>John & Lynn Richmond :-)
>Palm Coast, Fl.
>Mk3, 582
>
>Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
>http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
I've gotten to the stage where I'm putting the hardware on the frame, and every
time I start to work on it I'm missing bolts, I e-mail New Kolb, and a week
can go by before I get any response, Any of you guys having the same problem???
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nuts & Bolts |
Mike Pierzina wrote:
> I've gotten to the stage where I'm putting the hardware on the frame, and every
time I start to work on it I'm missing bolts, I e-mail New Kolb, and a week
can go by before I get any response, Any of you guys having the same problem???
Mike and Gang:
Yep. Been trying to contact TNK by email since last
Friday. All my emails I send are returned, mailbox filled
up. To me that indicates somebody ain't reading the mail.
I guess if I am to get what I need, I better pick up the
phone and call.
Anybody else having this problem contacting and receiving
replies from TNK?
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
To me that indicates somebody ain't reading the mail.
I guess if I am to get what I need, I better pick up the
phone and call.
Anybody else having this problem contacting and receiving
replies from TNK?
Take care,
john h
Sue used to handle that stuff (email and the like,and handle it well...) But
she is gone now...haven't had to call since then so don't don't know who
took Sue's place, but definitely some BIG shoes to fill.
Jeremy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "info" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
| Subject: | Take a look at this! |
http://www.skystar.com/company/accident.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenneth Glen Aubrey" <kgaubrey(at)hotmail.com> |
When I had my plane inspected by the EAA tech advisor, he said the same
thing about the nylon nuts, on every thing that moved or twisted, like the
folding hinges. So I went a head and replace all the nylon nuts with castle
nuts. The main thing the FAA guy that looked at my plane wanted, was labels
on every thing, the stops on the control surfaces and he made sure I could
calc the weight and balance.
Glen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Sport Pilot Questions: |
Kolbers:
Took some time to ask a couple of pointed questions of the EAA ref the
single-seat Kolb situation as it relates to the S.P. rules... Thought the
answers, as well as the specific points of contact, would possibly be of
interest/value to some others on the list.
Am still trying to envision a 1200 lb Firefly....guess it could be done....
Beauford
FF076
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Hansen" <rhansen(at)eaa.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 10:02 AM
Subject: RE: Sport Pilot Questions:
> Bill, The answers are below. Plus read our latest Sport Pilot update:
> http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/010522_sport_pilot.html
>
> Further questions concerning Sport Pilot should be addressed to Mark
Forss,
> EAA Aviation Information Services at 888-322-4636 ext. 6588, or e-mail:
> mforss(at)eaa.org.
>
> Randy Hansen
> EAA Government & Industry Relations Specialist
> rhansen(at)eaa.org
> 920-426-6522
> 920-426-6560 (fax)
> AirVenture 2001, July 24 - 29, 2001 (http://www.airventure.org/)
> EAA Wright Brothers Celebration, December 17, 2003
> (http://www.countdowntokittyhawk.com/)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Beauford Tuton [mailto:beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 10:14 PM
> To: govt(at)eaa.org
> Subject: Sport Pilot Questions:
>
> Sir:
> > I obtained your name from the EAA website as a source of information on
the
> proposed Sport Pilot certificate.
>
> I have read the various EAA articles and web page carefully, but I see no
> answers to my two specific questions:
>
> 1. I built and now regularly fly a single-seat Kolb Firefly part 103 legal
> machine... Under the new rules, would I be able to register it as an
> N-numbered experimental airplane and add 3 or 4 more gallons of gas,
brakes,
> etc. if I operated it with a sport pilot license?
> (all the FAA rule writing I have seen so far only seems to address the two
> place trainers)
>
> Answer: The way the rule is written, as EAA knows it, Sport Pilot "light
> aircraft" have a maximum 2 seat limit. So your one seat Firefly would fit
> into the new category just fine and you would be able to register it as an
> "N" numbers experimental light aircraft. You would also be free to modify
> your Firefly anyway you wish as long as the maximum takeoff weight does
not
> exceed 1,232 pounds (and the structural limits of your aircraft) - e.g.
> adding a bigger gas tank, brakes, etc. - but you can't modify your Firefly
> until the new rule becomes effective next year.
>
> 2. I currently hold an FAA Commercial Pilot certificate, but do not have
a
> current medical. In order to exercise Sport Pilot privileges, would I
have
> to go obtain an actual sport pilot certificate?
>
> Answer: The way EAA understands the rule - no. This will be treated like
> any other FAA pilot certificate. By that I mean, as a holder of a
> commercial pilot certificate you have always been authorized to exercise
the
> privileges of lower ratings. The commercial pilots rights really kick in
> when you are flying for hire. So, as a commercial pilot certificate
holder
> you will be able to fly as a Sport Pilot under Sport Pilot rules - as long
> as you are flying an aircraft that meets the sport pilot "light aircraft"
> rules. The same goes for the physical requirements - you will be able to
> act as a sport pilot "pilot in command" with only a valid drivers
license -
> but the minute you fly a bigger aircraft or exercise the privileges of a
> recreational, private, or commercial pilot then you'll need the
appropriate
> FAA medical exam.
>
> But, before you fly as a Sport Pilot you will have to meet the aircraft
> qualification and currency requirements contained within this new FAA
rule,
> which EAA expects to be approved sometime in 2002...
>
> Your time and attention is greatly appreciated, Sir...
>
> Most Sincerely,
> Bill Tuton
> Brandon, FL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I've been fooling with one of those new electronic label makers at work. I
think that's where Vamoose' labels are going to come from. Slick outfit,
but very spendy.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenneth Glen Aubrey" <kgaubrey(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 11:01 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Nuts
>
> When I had my plane inspected by the EAA tech advisor, he said the same
> thing about the nylon nuts, on every thing that moved or twisted, like the
> folding hinges. So I went a head and replace all the nylon nuts with
castle
> nuts. The main thing the FAA guy that looked at my plane wanted, was
labels
> on every thing, the stops on the control surfaces and he made sure I could
> calc the weight and balance.
>
> Glen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elastic stop nuts |
PLEASE REMOVE ME FROM ALL YOUR LISTS. iIAM GETTING HUNDREDS OF UNWANTED
E-MAILS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cajwoods(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: Etowah Bend Flyin |
Hi Gang
This flyin is the Woods brothers/ John Russell home flyin. We would like
to see all there. A few reindeer games and a good time for all, not to
mention ole' POSSUM will be there. Hope some of you will attend.
Bill Woods
912S Slingshot
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2001 9:49 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Etowah Bend Flyin
>
>
> > Kip Laurie
> > Firestar II
> > Atlanta
> > N111KX
> > will be at Air Rally (georgiasportflyers.com) on Jun 9th
>
> Kip and Gang:
>
> I flew up to Etowah Bend for this flyin last year. Had a
> good time. A great place to fly. If the MK III is flying
> by then, I will try and make it again this year.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nuts & Bolts |
> Anybody else having this problem contacting and receiving
> replies from TNK?
John & Gang,
Linda is the name of the person who has assumed the "Customer Service" roll
at TNK. Also Izek's last day was friday the 18th. They are running a little
short handed so things may take a little longer than usual.
Guy S.
MKIII-Xtra
Barnesville, MN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dixieshack(at)webtv.net (orie shackelford) |
Only had one e-mail problem ('course I only sent one e-mail). Took two
weeks to return my e-mail. In all fairness, Sue is no longer with TNK
to field calls and e-mails. Her mother passed away some few months ago
and Sue took another job closer to her family. Lady by the name of
Linda is handling Sue's chores...whatever that may involve....maybe we
should give a little transition time. BTW, I inqured about transition
training with TNK in their aircraft...heard somewhere that they were
offering transition training in the Kolbra to customers. Ain't so. No
transition training at TNK at least for now.
TNK's engine prices are as cheap or cheaper than most considering the
installation pak that comes with it if anyone's iterested.
Hillbilly Mike in WV
FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
Mike,
Lite Speed Aviation was the one who gave flight instructions in the Kolbra
but according to their webpage they no longer do this.
http://www.litespeedaviation.com/whatsnew.htm
Regards,
Will
In a message dated 5/24/01 8:31:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dixieshack(at)webtv.net writes:
> BTW, I inqured about transition
> training with TNK in their aircraft...heard somewhere that they were
> offering transition training in the Kolbra to customers. Ain't so. No
> transition training at TNK at least for now.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TNK e-mails message of Wed, 23 May 2001 23:50:00 |
Morning Gang:
Got an email to TNK through last night about 10:00. Fired
off a couple this morning that have not bounced.
I knew that Linda had replaced Sue, but did not know that
Izek had flown the nest also. That puts the main office
shorthanded with just two bodies.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank replacment |
Have a FireFly with a five (5) gallon tank. I would like to change to a
ten (10) gallon tank which I have. From those who have changed to a
larger tank have you had any problems with balance or center of gravity
which effected the flight charastics of the FireFly. The framing size
of the rods holding the existing tank would have to be enlarged to fit
the larger tank.
I am using about two gallons of fuel for a one (1) hour flight which
includes about eight (8) minutes warm up and taxie. I cruise about
fifity five (55) mph.
Does this seem consistant with other usages.
Jimmy Hankinson
Firefly #35, 447 Rotax
Rocky Ford, Georgia
Southeast Georgia
JYL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank replacment |
Jimmy:
Just as a factor or two to consider: I doubt you will find many Fireflys
out there with over 5 gallons on board. You would need to register the
airplane as an experimental and get an N-number on it to add anything over
the original 5 gallons of gas. If there are any FireFlys out there now with
over 5 gallons on board, they either have an experimental N-number on them ,
or they are illegal. The 5 gallon limit is part of the FAA Part 103
ultralight restriction.
If it is registered, you will of course need an FAA pilot license, tailwheel
endorsement, and current medical, etc. to fly it. When the number goes on
it, it becomes an "airplane" and all the FAA rules apply.
According to the EAA, once the new FAA sport pilot program becomes law in
2002, you would be able to fly it with a sport pilot ticket, but you would
still need to register it as an airplane and put an N-number on it to go
over the Part 103 five gallon limit, or exceed the 254 lb. empty weight
limit. That would mean annual inspections, paperwork, etc., but might be
worth it to you if you badly needed the extra gas.
By the way, if you are getting along on 2 gallons per hour, you are way
ahead of me... My 447 burns about 3.0 at 5500 RPM.
As for the Weight and Balance, depends on exactly where you hang the
additional gas and how heavy the tail feathers happen to be on your
particular bird.... I would recommend re-weighing it with your fanny in the
seat and recomputing the CG per the Kolb plans after you make the fuel
modification...
Free advice... worth what you paid for it...
Good Luck,
Beauford
FF-076
----- Original Message -----
From: "JIMMY HANKINSON" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 7:46 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel tank replacment
>
> Have a FireFly with a five (5) gallon tank. I would like to change to a
> ten (10) gallon tank which I have. From those who have changed to a
> larger tank have you had any problems with balance or center of gravity
> which effected the flight charastics of the FireFly. The framing size
> of the rods holding the existing tank would have to be enlarged to fit
> the larger tank.
> I am using about two gallons of fuel for a one (1) hour flight which
> includes about eight (8) minutes warm up and taxie. I cruise about
> fifity five (55) mph.
> Does this seem consistant with other usages.
>
> Jimmy Hankinson
> Firefly #35, 447 Rotax
> Rocky Ford, Georgia
> Southeast Georgia
> JYL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
After going all winter with poor radio transmission (I could hear ok), I
removed the back and side lexan from my Mark III.
Now it seems that my transmission has improved. ATC can hear me ok. This
seems just the opposite of what I would expect - that the enclosure
would keep the cockpit quieter and therefore better transmission.
Anyone else with similar experience or explanations??
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio reception |
When I had the back and side Lexan on my MKIII, it was noiser inside.
When you have the rear Lexan in place, you are effectively sitting in the
mouth of a megaphone, and it is amplifying all the engine noise and
aiming at you. I padded the inside of the rear Lexan with acoustic foam,
and then it was much quieter. But obviously you couldn't see out too well.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>After going all winter with poor radio transmission (I could hear ok), I
>removed the back and side lexan from my Mark III.
>Now it seems that my transmission has improved. ATC can hear me ok. This
>seems just the opposite of what I would expect - that the enclosure
>would keep the cockpit quieter and therefore better transmission.
>Anyone else with similar experience or explanations??
>
>Jim
>Mark III
>Charlotte, NC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank replacment |
Jimmy,
2 gallons per hour is excellent fuel usage--I get about 2.5 per hour at
5200-5500 rpm. A 10 gallon gas tank would mean that you could fly for
4-5 hours without stopping--I salute you--I could not fly an ultralight 4-5
hours straight. I am ready for a break after 1.5 hours and I welcome the
excuse to get out walk around, get a sip of water, go to the bathroom. I
hang a back pack from the crossbars where the front of the wings attach to
the frame. I carry two 2.5 gallon tall gas cans between the sling seat and
the frame cross bars. a wooden platform rests on lower frame bars and
attaches where the seat belts bolt on. I also carry oil in 16 ounce
containers--2 8 ounce containers would be betyter--then I could mix the
fuel in each tank. The extra weight would not be a problem--rebuilding
the frame could be a big problem if not done correctly--the tray would need
to be heavier and all the attachment points would need to be bigger. With
a 10 gallon tank you are screaming to FAA people I AM AN ILLEGAL
ULTRALIGHT. At least with the 5 gallon you will look like an ultralight.
Just my opinion.
Dale Seitzer
-----Original Message-----
From: JIMMY HANKINSON
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 6:46 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel tank replacment
Have a FireFly with a five (5) gallon tank. I would like to change to a
ten (10) gallon tank which I have. From those who have changed to a
larger tank have you had any problems with balance or center of gravity
which effected the flight charastics of the FireFly. The framing size
of the rods holding the existing tank would have to be enlarged to fit
the larger tank.
I am using about two gallons of fuel for a one (1) hour flight which
includes about eight (8) minutes warm up and taxie. I cruise about
fifity five (55) mph.
Does this seem consistant with other usages.
Jimmy Hankinson
Firefly #35, 447 Rotax
Rocky Ford, Georgia
Southeast Georgia
JYL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio reception |
Thanks Richard. That makes sense.
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radio reception
>
> When I had the back and side Lexan on my MKIII, it was noiser inside.
> When you have the rear Lexan in place, you are effectively sitting in the
> mouth of a megaphone, and it is amplifying all the engine noise and
> aiming at you. I padded the inside of the rear Lexan with acoustic foam,
> and then it was much quieter. But obviously you couldn't see out too well.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >After going all winter with poor radio transmission (I could hear ok), I
> >removed the back and side lexan from my Mark III.
> >Now it seems that my transmission has improved. ATC can hear me ok. This
> >seems just the opposite of what I would expect - that the enclosure
> >would keep the cockpit quieter and therefore better transmission.
> >Anyone else with similar experience or explanations??
> >
> >Jim
> >Mark III
> >Charlotte, NC
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank replacment |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Jimmy,
My Original Firestar is close to Part 103 limits and I could lighten it
up and fly it under Part 103 if I had to. I never installed a 10 gallon
tank because I wanted to stay reasonably close to the limits. I built a
shelf in back of my seat to hold 2 two and one half gallon tanks which
fill to 3 gallons. These tanks are easily removable and I have to land to
fill the main 5-gallon tank with a neoprene hose that I carry along under
the seat. I like this better than a 10-gallon tank because I never have
stale gas and yet it gives me plenty of fuel with a range of 150 miles.
On my trip to Oshkosh, I carried a plastic baby bottle for measuring oil
and a gallon of oil under the seat (I use a special synthetic oil that is
not readily available).
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
>
> >
> > Have a FireFly with a five (5) gallon tank. I would like to
> change to a
> > ten (10) gallon tank which I have. > > Jimmy Hankinson
> > Firefly #35, 447 Rotax
> > Rocky Ford, Georgia
> > Southeast Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <PVolum(at)etsmiami.com> |
Richard, Mk III was noisier than I wanted, so during the restoration, I
added a FLAT sheet of Lexan (behind the seat headrests) to create a sound
barrier. My theory was that the sound from the prop would bounce off it
instead of going forwards into the parabolic shaped cockpit area.
I haven't flown it since I added the Lexan in that location, but now that
I've seen your message, I'm wondering if I did the right thing.
Was your "back" Lexan addition in the location I indicated?
I can see how Lexan on the sides would increase the noise level, but surely
a barrier directly in the path of the sound waves will reduce the amount of
noise that gets forward?
Peter
When I had the back and side Lexan on my MKIII, it was noiser inside.
When you have the rear Lexan in place, you are effectively sitting in the
mouth of a megaphone, and it is amplifying all the engine noise and
aiming at you. I padded the inside of the rear Lexan with acoustic foam,
and then it was much quieter. But obviously you couldn't see out too well.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Peter
Lexan behind you head and shoulders helps a lot. I flew my MK III without
the lexan behind my head one time and it was much louder, I put the lexan
back on before the next flight.
terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter Volum
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 9:42 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Radio reception
Richard, Mk III was noisier than I wanted, so during the restoration, I
added a FLAT sheet of Lexan (behind the seat headrests) to create a sound
barrier. My theory was that the sound from the prop would bounce off it
instead of going forwards into the parabolic shaped cockpit area.
I haven't flown it since I added the Lexan in that location, but now that
I've seen your message, I'm wondering if I did the right thing.
Was your "back" Lexan addition in the location I indicated?
I can see how Lexan on the sides would increase the noise level, but surely
a barrier directly in the path of the sound waves will reduce the amount of
noise that gets forward?
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: John Hauck's Flight to Pt. Barrow, AK |
Hi Guys,
I'm not going to Alaska but I can appreciate the planning that John H is
putting into his trip to Alaska. I am going on my first long cross-country
tomorrow, weather permitting. I have been planning for a long time and
hopefully the God's of Weather will cooperate.
I'm going from AeroPark Wisconsin (Milwaukee) to Mountain Home, Arkansas.
It is approximately 600 miles. I will carry 15 gallons total of fuel, 1
tent, 1 sleeping bag, and a thermos of coffee. I haven't seen my Dad in 3
years and it will be good to see him again. I have allowed four days for the
trip, but if I need more I can take it.
I lost the email from somebody in Arkansas who invited me to stay at their
house and would like it if that person is reading this to send me another
email with their information so I can give them a call when I arrive at
Gastons 3MO.
This should be one hell of an adventure!!!! My instructor, Bill Genteman,
suggested that I file flight plans for the trip. The furthest I have flown
so far is 106 miles to the Iola Wisconsin EAA skiplane fly-in last winter.
I spent last weekend doing last-minute fix-up things including a facet
electric fuel pump in series with a new pulse pump. My cockpit is enclosed
so cool weather shouldn't be problem. If you guys were at Oshkosh last year,
mine was the black and white FS II. I flew in there for the first time last
year. Can't wait to go again.
Wish me luck on my voyage and I will keep you posted when I get back.
Any helpful hints will be appreciated, but I will be leaving tomorrow
morning early, weather permitting.
Take care -
John Bruzan
Chicago
FS II 503 SCDI EIS BRS A22 ELT WARP GPS 90HRS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: John Hauck's Flight to Pt. Barrow, AK |
John and Gang:
SUPER!!!
I know how excited you are. Probably have a hard time going
to sleep tonight. I still get those feelings of excitement,
adventure, anticipation for parts for unknown.
You'll have a lot of fun. You have a good airplane. Fly it
one leg at a time.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
There used to be some data sheets available to modify the upper rear
sides of the MKIII by adding Lexan rear windows, one on each side, that
extended the fuselage sides up to the lower surface of the center
section. They tapered and matched the fuselage sides. That is how mine
was.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Richard, Mk III was noisier than I wanted, so during the restoration, I
>added a FLAT sheet of Lexan (behind the seat headrests) to create a sound
>barrier. My theory was that the sound from the prop would bounce off it
>instead of going forwards into the parabolic shaped cockpit area.
>
>I haven't flown it since I added the Lexan in that location, but now that
>I've seen your message, I'm wondering if I did the right thing.
>
>Was your "back" Lexan addition in the location I indicated?
>
>I can see how Lexan on the sides would increase the noise level, but surely
>a barrier directly in the path of the sound waves will reduce the amount of
>noise that gets forward?
>
>Peter
>
>When I had the back and side Lexan on my MKIII, it was noiser inside.
>When you have the rear Lexan in place, you are effectively sitting in the
>mouth of a megaphone, and it is amplifying all the engine noise and
>aiming at you. I padded the inside of the rear Lexan with acoustic foam,
>and then it was much quieter. But obviously you couldn't see out too well.
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Richard,
That is exactly how mine is. I put the lexan sides and back on in the
winter and take them off in the summer. It is when they are on that I
have trouble with the radio transmission.
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Why won't stuff go thru on the 1st try ?? I'm gonna catch me an msn'er,
and............and...........and............! ! ! Grrrrr ! ! !
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bourne
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 12:53 AM
Subject: Engine Work
Lately, I've been blathering off and on about the 'doors' I built to
hide and protect the electronics in front of the engine on Vamoose.
These pics came back today, so thought I'd share them with
you..............if you like. On my website, in Building
Vamoose/Engine & redrive, I show the tray I built under the wing center
section, in front of the engine, to hold some of the electronics and
wiring. Two major concerns were: 1. To protect from weather, and
2. To keep sneaky fingers out of my goodies. Took way more fiddling
and cutting and trying than I expected, but they came out real good.
Two cam-locs on each side hold them closed. These are really a tough,
heavy duty fastener, and I'm impressed. The cutout on the rear edge,
below the cam-loc is to clear the exhaust pipe when opening. As
always it turned out to be........not that simple. After finishing the
side enclosure panels, I found that the lower side of the inboard
(steel) wing rib caught the lower edge of the filler piece, when I tried
to hook up the wing pins. My next trick will be to move those lower
edges inwards about 1/2". Also found, with just a slot to put the
forward connection in, that I had more of a problem inserting the
bolts/pins. With practise, it became "just awkward." Big thing is -
now I can't get a grip on the pin to pull it OUT. Grrrrrrr ! ! !
Cured THAT by making an aluminum pull strap for each side.
Folks............these things work SO GOOD ( ! ! !) that I can't
understand why I haven't heard more about them on the List. Just reach
in, grab the strap, wiggle the leading edge of the wing with my
shoulder, steady, strong pressure on the strap..............and the bolt
slips right out. Wonderful ! ! ! Always had trouble getting just the
right combination before, of pulling, twisting, pushing, etc. Try it,
you'll like it. Just for bragging, there's also a pic of the power
package from the left rear, showing the oil cooler, and all.
Tomorrow, Vamoose comes back onto the porch for final engine work. It's
been 114 - 116 deg. (in the shade) the past few days, and with all the
dedication in the world, you just can't work out in the sun. Apart from
heat stroke, etc., you can't touch anything without burning your
fingers. No snivelling this time.............simple fact. OK, doors
are under:
http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/portdoor.html and
http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/stbddoor.html
Forward wing bolts: http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/bolts.html
Engine Package: http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/oil.html
Hope you enjoy all this. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Engine Work |
Good pictures, looks great.
Don't know if this applies, couldn't tell from your pics, but something I want
to pass along, concerns airflow through the wing center section.
There is a lot of high pressure air under the wing center wection in the
cockpit area.
On my original center section gap cover, it was possible for air to go up
into the
center section overhead, through and out the back around the base
of the engine. You could put your hand up and feel it flowing very fast.
When I redid the center section and eliminated all those areas where the
air could escape, the airplane would fly at a lower throttle setting, and
climb
seemed to improve. Food for thought.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420p (420ldPoops)
>
>Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 12:53 AM
>Subject: Engine Work
>
>
>Lately, I've been blathering off and on about the 'doors' I built to
>hide and protect the electronics in front of the engine on Vamoose.
>These pics came back today, so thought I'd share them with
>you..............if you like. On my website, in Building
>Vamoose/Engine & redrive, I show the tray I built under the wing center
>section, in front of the engine, to hold some of the electronics and
>wiring. Two major concerns were: 1. To protect from weather, and
>2. To keep sneaky fingers out of my goodies. Took way more fiddling
>and cutting and trying than I expected, but they came out real good.
>Two cam-locs on each side hold them closed. These are really a tough,
>heavy duty fastener, and I'm impressed. The cutout on the rear edge,
>below the cam-loc is to clear the exhaust pipe when opening. As
>always it turned out to be........not that simple. After finishing the
>side enclosure panels, I found that the lower side of the inboard
>(steel) wing rib caught the lower edge of the filler piece, when I tried
>to hook up the wing pins. My next trick will be to move those lower
>edges inwards about 1/2". Also found, with just a slot to put the
>forward connection in, that I had more of a problem inserting the
>bolts/pins. With practise, it became "just awkward." Big thing is -
>now I can't get a grip on the pin to pull it OUT. Grrrrrrr ! ! !
>Cured THAT by making an aluminum pull strap for each side.
>Folks............these things work SO GOOD ( ! ! !) that I can't
>understand why I haven't heard more about them on the List. Just reach
>in, grab the strap, wiggle the leading edge of the wing with my
>shoulder, steady, strong pressure on the strap..............and the bolt
>slips right out. Wonderful ! ! ! Always had trouble getting just the
>right combination before, of pulling, twisting, pushing, etc. Try it,
>you'll like it. Just for bragging, there's also a pic of the power
>package from the left rear, showing the oil cooler, and all.
>Tomorrow, Vamoose comes back onto the porch for final engine work. It's
>been 114 - 116 deg. (in the shade) the past few days, and with all the
>dedication in the world, you just can't work out in the sun. Apart from
>heat stroke, etc., you can't touch anything without burning your
>fingers. No snivelling this time.............simple fact. OK, doors
>are under:
>
>
>http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/portdoor.html and
>
>http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/stbddoor.html
>Forward wing bolts: http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/bolts.html
>Engine Package: http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/oil.html
> Hope you enjoy all this. Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
>.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
Last year flying to OSH fly-in I had to stop at Shawano (it is located
north of OSH) do to weather. To my surprise there was a fly-out for OSH
fly-in. Free breakfast to all polities. Because of the weather south of
Shawano (fog) there wasn't anybody there when I was there . I received my
free breakfast, it worked out nice. I did make it to OSH fly-in that morning
as well.
I just received a letter from Shawano Chamber of Commerce that they are
having there fly-out on July 28, 2001 there number is 1-800-235-8528. If it
works out I'm planning on dropping in. Hope to see you guys there or be
flying with a group up to it if I'm at OSH already.
Scott Trask
Iron Mt. MI
MK111
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: vamoose
> Thanks for the nice words, Bob.........I always enjoy it, and I have enuf
to
> say about your note, that I think I'll publish it to the List. That's
> prob'ly why I put in so much time on the web page stuff...........I like
> getting my ego stroked, and those web pages have brought on a lot of
> it..........very gratifying. Actually, it's pretty simple with Homestead,
> once you get a start on it. Easy to show you how, if you're interested.
I
> put together a set of instructions on a WordPad document for a friend, and
> he says he made his 1st page in 1/2 hour, with only a little swearing and
> pounding. Let me know, and I'll email you a copy. Fella
> that spelled it "Vamouse" is a Dutchman, Kolb SeaPlane builder & flyer,
and
> very, very sharp. I had just assumed it was his European background that
> brought on the mis-spelling............never thought about the "mouse"
> aspect till you mentioned it. Cute, and food for thought. One that HAS
> come up before, is the idea of a Va-Moose cartoon on the rudder, of a
raging
> Bull Moose pawing the ground, and blowing smoke out of his nose. Kinda
like
> me building a web page. I picture Disney type styling. Any artists out
> there willing to give me a hand ?? When I lived in Port
> Angeles, WA., I had several boats, and the 2 with names were "DustBuster,"
> and "Gittum." Finding a name for my website turned out to be
surprisingly
> difficult, and gittum came to mind, but didn't "feel" right. Mulled it
> around for a bit, and "gogittum" brought a grin, and was available, and
> ............ ! ! ! Speaking of which, in my answer to Richard Pike,
I'm
> going to try - again - to publish a couple of pics to gogittum.com, for
the
> practise. Believe it or not........last night I completely forgot, just
> went ahead with the old way, on Homestead. Major brain fart..........or
> maybe old timer's disease. Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> .
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Bean" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 6:28 AM
> Subject: vamoose
>
>
> > 1. nice chrome Lar!
> > 2. you have more patience than I do (web site stuff, that is)
> > 3. I got a kick out of the guy who spelled "Vamouse" , maybe
> > you could build a scale model by that name.
> > 4. there is an obvious relationship between vamoose and gogittum?
> > 5. keep those airconditioners hummin'
> > ----Bob Bean, no progress lately--other stuff getting in the way and
> > it's killin me, but there is light at the far end of the tunnel.
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Before someone jumps all over me..................I know other people
have mentioned various ways they've provided to help pull out their wing
pins. The reason I said I was surprised in my posting last night, is
that they work SO GOOD, and there has been So Little Said, and it's been
a long time ago. Sometimes the simplest things...................... !
! ! Pleased Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Engine Work |
And thank YOU for the thought, Richard. I'm not sure if what I've done is
exactly what you're saying, but take a look at
http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/gapseal.html and
http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/gapseal2.html . In both, if you look
carefully, you can see the lexan piece filling the space between the doortop
bow, and the wing center section. It goes all the way around, and behind my
head. Not done yet, but coming very soon, will be a vertical divider behind
my head, with doors to let me access the front wing attach pins. When
rivetted in place, and sealed with clear silicone, these should keep air out
of the areas you mention. I hope. Don't know what I'm doing wrong
yet, but published these to gogittum.com as well, and can't find them. Back
to the drawing board. Airhead Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fw: Engine Work
>
> Good pictures, looks great.
> Don't know if this applies, couldn't tell from your pics, but something I
want
> to pass along, concerns airflow through the wing center section.
> There is a lot of high pressure air under the wing center wection in the>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Let's try again..................tarnation piece'a _ _ _ _ ! ! ! Grumble
grumble
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fw: Engine Work
> And thank YOU for the thought, Richard. I'm not sure if what I've done is
> exactly what you're saying, but take a look at
> http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/gapseal.html and
> http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/gapseal2.html . In both, if you
look
> carefully, you can see the lexan piece filling the space between the
doortop
> bow, and the wing center section. It goes all the way around, and behind
my
> head. Not done yet, but coming very soon, will be a vertical divider
behind
> my head, with doors to let me access the front wing attach pins. When
> rivetted in place, and sealed with clear silicone, these should keep air
out
> of the areas you mention. I hope. Don't know what I'm doing
wrong
> yet, but published these to gogittum.com as well, and can't find them.
Back
> to the drawing board. Airhead Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> .
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 8:28 AM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fw: Engine Work
>
>
> >
> > Good pictures, looks great.
> > Don't know if this applies, couldn't tell from your pics, but something
I
> want
> > to pass along, concerns airflow through the wing center section.
> > There is a lot of high pressure air under the wing center wection in
the>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Engine Work |
Looks good to me. As long as there is no way for a bunch of air from below the
wing to get into the centersection gap seal and come out of the top of the
wing,
performance is better.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42OldPoops)
>
>And thank YOU for the thought, Richard. I'm not sure if what I've done is
>exactly what you're saying, but take a look at
>http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/gapseal.html and
>http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/gapseal2.html . In both, if you look
>carefully, you can see the lexan piece filling the space between the doortop
>bow, and the wing center section. It goes all the way around, and behind my
>head. Not done yet, but coming very soon, will be a vertical divider behind
>my head, with doors to let me access the front wing attach pins. When
>rivetted in place, and sealed with clear silicone, these should keep air out
>of the areas you mention. I hope. Don't know what I'm doing wrong
>yet, but published these to gogittum.com as well, and can't find them. Back
>to the drawing board. Airhead Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
>.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 8:28 AM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fw: Engine Work
>
>
>>
>> Good pictures, looks great.
>> Don't know if this applies, couldn't tell from your pics, but something I
>want
>> to pass along, concerns airflow through the wing center section.
>> There is a lot of high pressure air under the wing center wection in the>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 8JulietBravo too fast -> aileron flutter |
Well the test flights are coming along. I have been taking it slow. This
morning I had calm air so decided to check max cruise and prop rpm. Straight
and level, wide open throttle she started to build speed. Got a little
rough, the normal bumps of a fat kolb bluntly slicing through air. Then the
flutter started. I know I was at 78 knots (89 mph) just before the flutter
started. It started with small shaking of the stick left and right and then
built quickly in magnitude and severity. I quickly reduced power and started
a gentle climb and it was gone as quickly as it appeared.
The rpm only got up to 5250. I was shooting for 5500. Not sure what I'm
gonna do. I know I'm not going that fast till the remedy is found. I
checked the archives. I guess I have to check with TNK on some aileron
counterweights. I saw where John Hauck mentioned he had them on Miss P'fer.
I sure don't remember seeing those long rods on there. Must have missed it.
The factory Mark III that I flew in didn't have them either. So I figured I
didn't need them either. Sure hate messing up the paint and fabric to put
those things in. Do you have to drill out rivets to put the counterweights
on?
Having a blast (below 89 mph),
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Mark III - 912
N308JB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 582, parts is parts |
Hi Gang,
Didn't get any response on the fair value of a seized, but otherwise good,
582 so lets see if we can get offers on the parts:
"C" box 3.0 to 1
Exhaust, complete, hot coated in silver
Carbs, Bing 54, two each, standard with air filter
Electric starter
Oil tank, rear mount with bracket
Oil tank, top mount (brand new still in bubble pack)
Radiators, dual (Sold)
Contact me via direct email if interested.
Bill George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Engine Work |
Lar:
You are coming through loud and clear every time you post.
I am receiving all your msgs both times you post them.
Take care,
john h
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
>
> Let's try again..................tarnation piece'a _ _ _ _ ! ! ! Grumble
> grumble
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> .
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 10:48 AM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fw: Engine Work
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 8JulietBravo too fast -> aileron flutter |
I know I was at 78 knots (89 mph) just before the flutter
> started. It started with small shaking of the stick left and right and then
> built quickly in magnitude and severity.
> John Bickham
John and Gang:
Recommend you remain below 80 mph indicated until you get
your ailerons balanced. That is where mine usually started,
particularly in other than smooth air.
Flutter will get your attention, won't it? :-)
You will not have to mess up your paint or your fabric to
install the counterbalance weights. Give me a call and I
will tell you how to do it. I am sure I wrote the
instructions on installing after the fact and posted to the
List. Should be in the archives, if you can find them.
The counterbalance weights will definitely take care of the
problem. They did for me. I have 1,200 plus hours on the
aileron rod end bearings and some slop in the controls with
no hint of flutter.
Real quick, down and dirty, here is how I mount
counterbalance weights after the fact:
Cut out the fabric from the outboard end of the leading edge
of the aileron.
Use a die grinder, dremel tool, or whatever, to grind the
end of the two outboard aileron rivets flush with the inside
of the tube.
Slip in the new mount. Put four rivets in it to lock in
place. I riveted mine on the leading edge after letting the
aileron droop vertically after the push/pull tube was
disconnected.
If you have any questions, give me a call: 334-567-6280.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kb8wlu" <kb8wlu(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | getting my private pilot ticket |
Hi Folks!
I am finally getting my ppl. I am in ground school right now finishing up
Tuesday of next week. my instructor gave me geims ninth edition witch is
current. wow after looking thru the book and realized their is 738 faa
questions which only have to take a 60 question test.. wow this is tuff I
was wondering if anyone has the gleims faa test prep software that I could
purchase from them that would help.
thanks Paul Robinson....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Kolbers:
This is yet another appeal for 2-stroke wisdom from those Listers who
understand these vile contraptions... I certainly do not...
The 447 continues to collect a moderate amount of crud on the plugs... a
shiny black residue around the rim of the steel barrel... and on the sides
of the center anode... the porcelin insulator is gun metal gray on one side,
and lightly coated with the same shiny black deposits on the other. No
brown or tan showing anywhere on the plug. No dull or fuzzy black
deposits.... only shiny stuff.
Last Fall, I went through an adjustment festival, balancing the metering rod
setting against the Ivo prop load to get the EGTs down... I fear I have
overcompensated...
Here are the present operating parameters:
Engine turns 6200 static... climbs ( WOT) at 6350... runs 6550 level flight
at WOT.
EGT's at full throttle are about 1000.... 5500rpm level cruise EGTs are
about 1080... closed throttle glide produces 1180 EGTs.
Running AMOCO regular with 14oz of Pennziol air cooled oil per 5 gallons.
Engine uses 3.0 to 3.2 GPH overall... Varying cruise between 5900 and 5400
does not seem to affect consumption significantly.
Back when I began fooling with this thing, the EGT's for cruise ran at 1150
or so... a closed throttle glide would immediately break 1200... get as high
as 1260 sometimes... but the plugs were a pretty brownish tan...with zero
deposits. I got skittish about a closed throttle seizure and richened it up
with the metering rod and added a tad of prop loading...
I reckon my question boils down to this: Am I better off letting the EGTs
poke above 1200 in closed or partial throttle glides while enjoying pretty
tan plugs with zero deposits..... OR.... should I put up with these
deposits and keep the temps below redline (1200) across the entire RPM
range... One notch difference on the metering rod seems to put me in one
situation or the other. I worry about excessive deposits and all the
ring-sticking, etc. , which will likely go with them sooner or later.
Any help/advice would be appreciated...Whaddya think Kolbers? Over?
Beauford
FF076
P.S. 2.2 hours in two hops today... most of it along the southern edges of
Tampa Bay... a zillion boats out there, and a goodly number of them were in
the process of being stopped/checked by the constabulary...cops all over the
place. Saw three large Manta rays at different locations... first ones I
have seen up in the bay this year... two large sharks cruising around up in
the shallows amongst the fishermen... some of whom were wading in 3 to 4 ft
water to fish.... heh, heh... What they don't know, etc. etc.... Winds
were about 12 to 15 out of NW across the strip at 45 degrees or so... When
one watches some of the other UL's out there thrashing around in that little
bit of wind, ya really appreciate the relatively powerful control authority
built into the Kolbs... even the Fly. It rides rough, but when you get on
it hard, it will sure do what you tell it to do, when you tell it...
B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
> Engine turns 6200 static... climbs ( WOT) at 6350... runs 6550 level flight
> at WOT.
> EGT's at full throttle are about 1000.... 5500rpm level cruise EGTs are
> about 1080... closed throttle glide produces 1180 EGTs.
>
> Running AMOCO regular with 14oz of Pennziol air cooled oil per 5 gallons.
> Engine uses 3.0 to 3.2 GPH overall... Varying cruise between 5900 and 5400
> does not seem to affect consumption significantly.
Hey Beauford and Gang:
I am not really up to date on 2 cycles anymore cause I don't
get to mess/fly with them much any more. But, first of all
you are running a little oil rich: 45.7 to 1
Why not lighten up on pitch a little and that will bring the
EGTs up also. Check it out, but I think the 447 is red
lined at 6,800 rpm. If it is, then that is what it should
turn WOT straight and level flight. Pitched that way will
give you the best climb/cruise combination.
The other thing is checking spark plug/mixture. If you want
to know what the plugs look like at WOT, then tie her down,
run WOT for a few minutes and hit the kill switch without
touching the throttle. That will show you how the plugs are
running WOT.
5,800 rpm for me and my 447 and 582 proved to be the best
cruise rpm, about 75% power. If you want to see how plugs
are running at 5,800 rpm, tie it down, run it at 5,800 rpm,
hit the kill switch and read the plugs.
If I go out, fly, land, taxi to tie down, let it idle a
while to cool down, etc., then read the plugs, I am reading
idle mixture burn.
If I am wrong, correct me guys, but that is the way I do
it. :-)
Take care,
john h
PS: 16 oz into 6.25 gal equals 50 to one. Get yourself a
big 6 gal gas can and buy 6.25 gal at a whack. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
> Back when I began fooling with this thing, the EGT's for cruise ran at
1150 or so... a closed > throttle glide would immediately break 1200...
get as high as 1260 sometimes... but the > plugs were a pretty
brownish tan...with zero deposits. I got skittish about a closed
throttle > seizure and richened it up with the metering rod and added a
tad of prop loading...
Beauford, the plugs tell the real story and I would leave the prop pitch
the way it is now and change the metering rod (jet needle) back to its
original position (the way it was before the change) which is position #2
(leaner).
You need to give it regular Seafoam treatments (every 10-15 hours). I use
a synthetic oil for the engine and gearbox which keeps it very clean. The
plugs will last a year using synthetic oil. I will send you the treatment
procedure off-line.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar, w/447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
I'm gonna be in crap for this one but forget about the egt. The egt will
give you a reference number. The plugs will give you the real story about
how hot your engine is running. If you see a big change in the normal
numbers check it out but find out what is normal for your engine. The plugs
tell the real story. Change your jetting back to give a nice tan plug.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582, parts is parts |
Bill,
Was this your engine, or someone elses?
I was curious what else you could tell me about it.
I am building an airboat - not the kind that flies - and it would be a good
candidate for that.
Thanks
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: <WGeorge737(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 4:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 582, parts is parts
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> Didn't get any response on the fair value of a seized, but otherwise good,
> 582 so lets see if we can get offers on the parts:
>
> "C" box 3.0 to 1
> Exhaust, complete, hot coated in silver
> Carbs, Bing 54, two each, standard with air filter
> Electric starter
> Oil tank, rear mount with bracket
> Oil tank, top mount (brand new still in bubble pack)
> Radiators, dual (Sold)
>
> Contact me via direct email if interested.
>
> Bill George
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
----- Original Message -----
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Cruddy Plugs
>
> I'm gonna be in crap for this one but forget about the egt. The egt
will
> give you a reference number. The plugs will give you the real story about
> how hot your engine is running. If you see a big change in the normal
> numbers check it out but find out what is normal for your engine. The
plugs
> tell the real story. Change your jetting back to give a nice tan plug.
>
I agree, but also follow John Hs advise on reading the plugs, ie tie it
down and run at the RPM you want to check, than hit the kill switch without
changing the throttle. Read the plugs this way at each throttle setting
and you can't go wrong.
Denny Rowe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
Beauford,
My 1st engine out happened listening to the the advise of an "expert" at
Sun & Fun who told me to go by the plug readings & not the EGT. I had 6 hrs
on my UltraStar at the time. Why do we have EGT guages? Apparantly your
engine is running well other than you need to change plugs sooner than you'd
like. You're tempts are in a safe zone where you know you are getting good
lubrication & cooling. You are right to stay away from the 1200 mark. I
have used the Seafoam for years in all th fuel that I mix as per the
instructions (1oz/5gal) & it does cut down on carbon build up. There is no
material in your fuel system that will be deteriated by Seafaoam, at least
not in 300hrs.
I am not saying you can not achieve a better fuel/air mixture, I'm just
saying stay the course that has gotten you where you are: the logical use of
the EGT, balancing jetting & load. It takes a lot of experience to "read" a
plug. I thought I knew what I was doing & it cost me an engine. Could of
cost me a plane or my life. Also I've been using Bosch Platinum 4215
(AutoZone). They have been running great & they sure are cheaper than Rotax
prices! ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 7:18 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Cruddy Plugs
>
> Kolbers:
> This is yet another appeal for 2-stroke wisdom from those Listers who
> understand these vile contraptions... I certainly do not...
>
> The 447 continues to collect a moderate amount of crud on the plugs... a
> shiny black residue around the rim of the steel barrel... and on the sides
> of the center anode... the porcelin insulator is gun metal gray on one
side,
> and lightly coated with the same shiny black deposits on the other. No
> brown or tan showing anywhere on the plug. No dull or fuzzy black
> deposits.... only shiny stuff.
>
> Last Fall, I went through an adjustment festival, balancing the metering
rod
> setting against the Ivo prop load to get the EGTs down... I fear I have
> overcompensated...
>
> Here are the present operating parameters:
>
> Engine turns 6200 static... climbs ( WOT) at 6350... runs 6550 level
flight
> at WOT.
> EGT's at full throttle are about 1000.... 5500rpm level cruise EGTs are
> about 1080... closed throttle glide produces 1180 EGTs.
>
> Running AMOCO regular with 14oz of Pennziol air cooled oil per 5 gallons.
> Engine uses 3.0 to 3.2 GPH overall... Varying cruise between 5900 and 5400
> does not seem to affect consumption significantly.
>
> Back when I began fooling with this thing, the EGT's for cruise ran at
1150
> or so... a closed throttle glide would immediately break 1200... get as
high
> as 1260 sometimes... but the plugs were a pretty brownish tan...with zero
> deposits. I got skittish about a closed throttle seizure and richened it
up
> with the metering rod and added a tad of prop loading...
>
> I reckon my question boils down to this: Am I better off letting the EGTs
> poke above 1200 in closed or partial throttle glides while enjoying pretty
> tan plugs with zero deposits..... OR.... should I put up with these
> deposits and keep the temps below redline (1200) across the entire RPM
> range... One notch difference on the metering rod seems to put me in one
> situation or the other. I worry about excessive deposits and all the
> ring-sticking, etc. , which will likely go with them sooner or later.
>
> Any help/advice would be appreciated...Whaddya think Kolbers? Over?
>
> Beauford
> FF076
> P.S. 2.2 hours in two hops today... most of it along the southern edges
of
> Tampa Bay... a zillion boats out there, and a goodly number of them were
in
> the process of being stopped/checked by the constabulary...cops all over
the
> place. Saw three large Manta rays at different locations... first ones I
> have seen up in the bay this year... two large sharks cruising around up
in
> the shallows amongst the fishermen... some of whom were wading in 3 to 4
ft
> water to fish.... heh, heh... What they don't know, etc. etc.... Winds
> were about 12 to 15 out of NW across the strip at 45 degrees or so...
When
> one watches some of the other UL's out there thrashing around in that
little
> bit of wind, ya really appreciate the relatively powerful control
authority
> built into the Kolbs... even the Fly. It rides rough, but when you get on
> it hard, it will sure do what you tell it to do, when you tell it...
> B.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cim & Tindy" <townsend(at)webound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
Sounds like they are fine.
Every ones eyes are different on the plugs.
1000 deg. egt are good, I my opinion if the
plugs are tan or gray it is too hot. Mine seem
to run a very, very dark brown at 1000 egt.
I do change them at least in 35 hrs.
Hot is bad for ring sticking, it is not the carbon
that sticks rings it is the baked on varnish stuff??
Our Best
Tim & Cindy Townsend
----- Original Message -----
From: Beauford Tuton
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 6:18 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Cruddy Plugs
Kolbers:
This is yet another appeal for 2-stroke wisdom from those Listers who
understand these vile contraptions... I certainly do not...
The 447 continues to collect a moderate amount of crud on the plugs...
a
shiny black residue around the rim of the steel barrel... and on the
sides
of the center anode... the porcelin insulator is gun metal gray on one
side,
and lightly coated with the same shiny black deposits on the other.
No
brown or tan showing anywhere on the plug. No dull or fuzzy black
deposits.... only shiny stuff.
Last Fall, I went through an adjustment festival, balancing the
metering rod
setting against the Ivo prop load to get the EGTs down... I fear I
have
overcompensated...
Here are the present operating parameters:
Engine turns 6200 static... climbs ( WOT) at 6350... runs 6550 level
flight
at WOT.
EGT's at full throttle are about 1000.... 5500rpm level cruise EGTs
are
about 1080... closed throttle glide produces 1180 EGTs.
Running AMOCO regular with 14oz of Pennziol air cooled oil per 5
gallons.
Engine uses 3.0 to 3.2 GPH overall... Varying cruise between 5900 and
5400
does not seem to affect consumption significantly.
Back when I began fooling with this thing, the EGT's for cruise ran at
1150
or so... a closed throttle glide would immediately break 1200... get
as high
as 1260 sometimes... but the plugs were a pretty brownish tan...with
zero
deposits. I got skittish about a closed throttle seizure and richened
it up
with the metering rod and added a tad of prop loading...
I reckon my question boils down to this: Am I better off letting the
EGTs
poke above 1200 in closed or partial throttle glides while enjoying
pretty
tan plugs with zero deposits..... OR.... should I put up with these
deposits and keep the temps below redline (1200) across the entire RPM
range... One notch difference on the metering rod seems to put me in
one
situation or the other. I worry about excessive deposits and all the
ring-sticking, etc. , which will likely go with them sooner or later.
Any help/advice would be appreciated...Whaddya think Kolbers? Over?
Beauford
FF076
P.S. 2.2 hours in two hops today... most of it along the southern
edges of
Tampa Bay... a zillion boats out there, and a goodly number of them
were in
the process of being stopped/checked by the constabulary...cops all
over the
place. Saw three large Manta rays at different locations... first
ones I
have seen up in the bay this year... two large sharks cruising around
up in
the shallows amongst the fishermen... some of whom were wading in 3 to
4 ft
water to fish.... heh, heh... What they don't know, etc. etc....
Winds
were about 12 to 15 out of NW across the strip at 45 degrees or so...
When
one watches some of the other UL's out there thrashing around in that
little
bit of wind, ya really appreciate the relatively powerful control
authority
built into the Kolbs... even the Fly. It rides rough, but when you
get on
it hard, it will sure do what you tell it to do, when you tell it...
B.
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cim & Tindy" <townsend(at)webound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
Yes what John said,
Our Best
Tim & Cindy Townsend
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2001 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Cruddy Plugs
> Engine turns 6200 static... climbs ( WOT) at 6350... runs 6550
level flight
> at WOT.
> EGT's at full throttle are about 1000.... 5500rpm level cruise EGTs
are
> about 1080... closed throttle glide produces 1180 EGTs.
>
> Running AMOCO regular with 14oz of Pennziol air cooled oil per 5
gallons.
> Engine uses 3.0 to 3.2 GPH overall... Varying cruise between 5900
and 5400
> does not seem to affect consumption significantly.
Hey Beauford and Gang:
I am not really up to date on 2 cycles anymore cause I don't
get to mess/fly with them much any more. But, first of all
you are running a little oil rich: 45.7 to 1
Why not lighten up on pitch a little and that will bring the
EGTs up also. Check it out, but I think the 447 is red
lined at 6,800 rpm. If it is, then that is what it should
turn WOT straight and level flight. Pitched that way will
give you the best climb/cruise combination.
The other thing is checking spark plug/mixture. If you want
to know what the plugs look like at WOT, then tie her down,
run WOT for a few minutes and hit the kill switch without
touching the throttle. That will show you how the plugs are
running WOT.
5,800 rpm for me and my 447 and 582 proved to be the best
cruise rpm, about 75% power. If you want to see how plugs
are running at 5,800 rpm, tie it down, run it at 5,800 rpm,
hit the kill switch and read the plugs.
If I go out, fly, land, taxi to tie down, let it idle a
while to cool down, etc., then read the plugs, I am reading
idle mixture burn.
If I am wrong, correct me guys, but that is the way I do
it. :-)
Take care,
john h
PS: 16 oz into 6.25 gal equals 50 to one. Get yourself a
big 6 gal gas can and buy 6.25 gal at a whack. :-)
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
Sounds to me like you are too rich. The shiny surface is caused by deposits
building up because of being too rich, and then when you fo to a high load,
high heat situation, it forms a sort of glaze. I would go back to where you
were before you started worrying,
and not let 1250 on descent bother you.
Use 13 ounces of oil per 5 gallons of gas.
Also, I have been playing with different octanes, (The 532 wants a lot
more than any of the other Rotax 2-strokes - 93 octane) and while it seems
happy enough on 89 octane, the plugs are more gray than they were, and top
end rpm is down by 200. Guess I need to go back to 93 octane and see what
happens.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolbers:
>This is yet another appeal for 2-stroke wisdom from those Listers who
>understand these vile contraptions... I certainly do not...
>
>The 447 continues to collect a moderate amount of crud on the plugs... a
>shiny black residue around the rim of the steel barrel... and on the sides
>of the center anode... the porcelin insulator is gun metal gray on one side,
>and lightly coated with the same shiny black deposits on the other. No
>brown or tan showing anywhere on the plug. No dull or fuzzy black
>deposits.... only shiny stuff.
>
>Last Fall, I went through an adjustment festival, balancing the metering rod
>setting against the Ivo prop load to get the EGTs down... I fear I have
>overcompensated...
>
>Here are the present operating parameters:
>
>Engine turns 6200 static... climbs ( WOT) at 6350... runs 6550 level flight
>at WOT.
>EGT's at full throttle are about 1000.... 5500rpm level cruise EGTs are
>about 1080... closed throttle glide produces 1180 EGTs.
>
>Running AMOCO regular with 14oz of Pennziol air cooled oil per 5 gallons.
>Engine uses 3.0 to 3.2 GPH overall... Varying cruise between 5900 and 5400
>does not seem to affect consumption significantly.
>
>Back when I began fooling with this thing, the EGT's for cruise ran at 1150
>or so... a closed throttle glide would immediately break 1200... get as high
>as 1260 sometimes... but the plugs were a pretty brownish tan...with zero
>deposits. I got skittish about a closed throttle seizure and richened it up
>with the metering rod and added a tad of prop loading...
>
>I reckon my question boils down to this: Am I better off letting the EGTs
>poke above 1200 in closed or partial throttle glides while enjoying pretty
>tan plugs with zero deposits..... OR.... should I put up with these
>deposits and keep the temps below redline (1200) across the entire RPM
>range... One notch difference on the metering rod seems to put me in one
>situation or the other. I worry about excessive deposits and all the
>ring-sticking, etc. , which will likely go with them sooner or later.
>
>Any help/advice would be appreciated...Whaddya think Kolbers? Over?
>
>Beauford
>FF076
>P.S. 2.2 hours in two hops today... most of it along the southern edges of
>Tampa Bay... a zillion boats out there, and a goodly number of them were in
>the process of being stopped/checked by the constabulary...cops all over the
>place. Saw three large Manta rays at different locations... first ones I
>have seen up in the bay this year... two large sharks cruising around up in
>the shallows amongst the fishermen... some of whom were wading in 3 to 4 ft
>water to fish.... heh, heh... What they don't know, etc. etc.... Winds
>were about 12 to 15 out of NW across the strip at 45 degrees or so... When
>one watches some of the other UL's out there thrashing around in that little
>bit of wind, ya really appreciate the relatively powerful control authority
>built into the Kolbs... even the Fly. It rides rough, but when you get on
>it hard, it will sure do what you tell it to do, when you tell it...
>B.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 8JulietBravo too fast -> aileron flutter |
Before I added my aileron counterbalences, my ailerons started to buzz at
88 mph. Guess that is the magic number. No problems after the mod. Follow
John H.'s instructions. For cosmetics, paint them first, use a little brush
to touch up the paint around the end of the aileron tube where they slid
in, touch up the rivit heads, it will look great.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> I know I was at 78 knots (89 mph) just before the flutter
>> started. It started with small shaking of the stick left and right and then
>> built quickly in magnitude and severity.
>> John Bickham
>
>
>John and Gang:
>
>Recommend you remain below 80 mph indicated until you get
>your ailerons balanced. That is where mine usually started,
>particularly in other than smooth air.
>
>Flutter will get your attention, won't it? :-)
>
>You will not have to mess up your paint or your fabric to
>install the counterbalance weights. Give me a call and I
>will tell you how to do it. I am sure I wrote the
>instructions on installing after the fact and posted to the
>List. Should be in the archives, if you can find them.
>
>The counterbalance weights will definitely take care of the
>problem. They did for me. I have 1,200 plus hours on the
>aileron rod end bearings and some slop in the controls with
>no hint of flutter.
>
>Real quick, down and dirty, here is how I mount
>counterbalance weights after the fact:
>
>Cut out the fabric from the outboard end of the leading edge
>of the aileron.
>
>Use a die grinder, dremel tool, or whatever, to grind the
>end of the two outboard aileron rivets flush with the inside
>of the tube.
>
>Slip in the new mount. Put four rivets in it to lock in
>place. I riveted mine on the leading edge after letting the
>aileron droop vertically after the push/pull tube was
>disconnected.
>
>If you have any questions, give me a call: 334-567-6280.
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <PVolum(at)etsmiami.com> |
| Subject: | Permanent Wing Gap Seal edge |
Hey Larry,
Your permanent wing gap seal looks very similar to the set-up I came up with
for mine, though I never thought of putting access doors on top. Great
idea!
Will your wings butt up against the aluminum edge as-is? Or do you plan on
putting something along the edge to fill the gap?
I was toying with using some sort of foam that would compress between the
inboard edge of each wing and the gap seal, but eventually decided against
it due to the added difficulty it would cause when assembling the wing.
I ended up ordering some weather stripping from Aircraft Spruce that did a
nice job of filling the space and it looks great. I'll eventually post
pics., but for now if you are interested, take a look at item 05-01300 in
the A&S catalog (page 128 of the 2000-2001 issue). It wraps over the edge
of the aluminum nicely and gives you a flexible edge against which the wing
butts-up (or under).
Peter
From: Larry Bourne
On my website, in Building Vamoose/Engine & redrive, I show the tray I built
under the wing center
section, in front of the engine, to hold some of the electronics and
wiring.
http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/portdoor.html and
http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/stbddoor.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
> My 1st engine out happened listening to the the advise of an
> "expert" at
> Sun & Fun who told me to go by the plug readings & not the EGT. I
> had 6 hrs
> on my UltraStar at the time. Why do we have EGT guages?
Richard and others, I sent a post on 5/13 where my EGT had been running
1250 for years and I was concerned for a long time but believed the plugs
with their nice brown color. It turned out the EGT sensor was defective
all along and gave me false readings. I have since installed a good
sensor and it reads normal at 1080-1100 in cruise. The EGT is only a
reference and after many flights you will know what it normal for your
engine. As Woody says, use it to detect sudden changes. The plugs tell
the real story of what is going on in the combustion chamber and they
should have a nice brown color on the center porcelain (this is what to
look for) and they will be black on the rims (this is normal).
One more thing. I pulled the plugs on a friends Firestar when the engine
died after landing (the EGT's were low in flight, about 800 deg) and they
were black on the center porcelain. I took the slide out of the carb and
saw immediately what the problem was. The jet needle and clip were on top
of the plastic cup causing a rich mixture. Sure the EGT's were low, but
the plugs told me how rich that puppy was running. I replaced the clip in
its proper position and the EGT's were right where they should be.
Believe those plugs. Since using the synthetic oil, I have compared my
plugs to others using Pennzoil and I have to tell you guys there is no
comparison. The synthetics are the way to go for a 2-cycle engine. I look
at my plugs once a year when I replace them during my annual inspection
and they could go another year they are so clean with a nice brown tint.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar, w/447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
More has been said off List, about the "Va-moose," and "Va-mouse" thread
from the other day. Kinda neat............."Va-moose" is a Mk III, and
I've already said I picture a cartoon moose on the tail, breathing fire,
and pawing dirt. Still need an artist, tho'. How about, on the
single seaters, a "Va-Mouse" like Speedy Gonzalez, or Mighty Mouse, or
some such ??
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Permanent Wing Gap Seal edge |
Hmmmmm...............?? Last summer, I looked at Boyd Young's Mk III in
Brigham City, Utah. He uses a strip of velcro (loops ??) down each edge of
the gap seal, and wing; with the other part (hooks ??) over it. Looks good,
works good, very secure, easily removed and attached, inexpensive, etc., so
I'd pretty well made up my mind to use his idea. I'm looking at that
channel you used, right now, and it looks like it'd make a nice
installation. I'll have to do some measuring when I put the wings back on,
to see if it would be wide enuf. ( Moved Vamoose onto the porch yesterday,
for engine work ) Did you put the channel on the gap seal, or the wing ??
How stiff is it ?? Looks like, if you could work it so that the lip of the
channel would be Over the component it meets, wind pressure would push the
lip back against it to create the seal. Nice Job ! ! ! Guess it wouldn't
go on the wing........there's no lip to hold it............and I've cut the
aluminum back on the gap seal...........hmmmm. Hafta do some trimming and
tongue chewing, but I like it. Nice and neat. Looks like they sell it only
in 12 ft lengths. Do you have any pieces I could mess around with ??
I had originally planned on making some kind of swing down shelf under the
gap seal/engine to put components and wiring on, but when I started
squirming around under there trying to start designing and building such a
thing, my poor ol' back rebelled, and the idea of trouble shooting on such a
thing later on was NOT appealing. The doors were an idea born (??) of
desperation. More on Boyd Young..............I
definitely plan on using his radio antenna. Did a lot of testing last year,
and his antenna talks and listens right up there (actually better) with the
expensive ones...........and his is almost free, and completely out of
sight. Also on Boyd...........haven't heard from him since his accident,
and I emailed him once already. Boyd ?? Boyd ?? Ya there, ol' son ??
Concerned Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Volum" <PVolum(at)etsmiami.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2001 7:05 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Permanent Wing Gap Seal edge
>
> Hey Larry,
>
> Your permanent wing gap seal looks very similar to the set-up I came up
with
> for mine, though I never thought of putting access doors on top. Great
> idea!
>
> Will your wings butt up against the aluminum edge as-is? Or do you plan
on
> putting something along the edge to fill the gap?
>
> I was toying with using some sort of foam that would compress between the>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 05/04/01 message of Fri, |
4 May...
In a message dated 5/5/01 9:53:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dixieshack(at)webtv.net writes:
<< My plane has not flown yet. I found the Chinese bearings nearly dry.
Popped one seal on each and packed them. Question. Could those of you
who've had a failure possibly have preloaded the bearings when
installing the wheel? They're ball bearings and won't accept much side
loading which tightening the axle nut would do. Any wheel that isn't
perfectly aligned will have a sideload any time the plane moves which
ain't good on ball bearings. Did going to good ol' US of A bearings
cure the problem? If so, I want to change mine before flying.
Hi GeorgeR38
Hillbilly Mike (again)
FSII in WV about ready to fly
>>
Mike, Um finly back from the sequestered life of an ol fart in Fla and workin
for a livin agin. But I still have 460 out of 660 messages to respond to on
my email and it may take a cupla years.
I know about your bearing dialogue awee bit as they are not thrust type
bearings and I have already gone through several pair ...I think primarily
cause of my lousy job of lining them up originally as I have a severe toe in
problem as well as a top out problem. But I go through so many bent landing
gear that my bearings don't git a chance to roll that much anyway.
The fella who bought the bar to span from the one fitting to the next to
assure alignment sure was a smart one. Ceptin I couldn't do that on my
original Firestar ...well....not really original....but KX version ....cause
Kolb didn't have the style of fitting with the alignment hole in it then. But
y'see my landings are so up and down instead of over that the bearings serve
only as fillers to enable me to git to the softness of the tire so that I can
sustain the longevity of my butt. I have about 8 bent gear.
good talkin to ya mike!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "The Spouse Situation" |
In a message dated 5/7/01 12:32:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kevinschlosser(at)msn.com writes:
<< She has 2 main issues among other concerns
(the John Denver factor, etc.):
1) Safety: "Do you really want to fly in something YOU
put together and do you expect ME to want to fly in it?"
2) Money: "So basically what you're saying is you want
to buy a flying $_Ford Explorer_$, right?!?"
She understands that this is an inevitable event, approval or not. S he also
knows my mechanical ability and perfectionist tendancies will pro bably result
in a nicely built aircraft. She just can't visualize puttin g herself into
a contraption I built and flying somewhere in it.
I have made a few minor triumphs lately though. She has made a few s tatements
like "Virginia would be a much easier trip if we flew there."
along with "Our next house should have enough property to allow you a nic e shop
and a place to store your plane."
Whoever said women are tough to figure was right!
Kevin
-< PropellerHead > >>
Kevin, you have put the dilemma perfectly
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List 582, parts is parts |
writes:
<< Was this your engine, or someone elses?
I was curious what else you could tell me about it.
I am building an airboat - not the kind that flies - and it would be a good
candidate for that. >>
My engine. Has 180.6 hours total time. Ran perfectly right up to the time it
seized. It seized upon power reduction during level off after climb to 2500
feet.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 447 Cold Seizure? |
I need the help of all the engine gurus on the list. I had a "small"
problem yesterday while flying my Firestar with a Rotax 447 (139 hours, no
prior problems). I had flown for about 1 1/2 hours , late evening, hazy, high
dew-point. I saw a crop duster who flies out of my home airport at another
airport, so I landed to talk with him. The engine was shut down for about 1/2
hour. It re-started easily, warmed back up into the "green" and I took off
without incident, turning the usual 6,000 RPM. As I began to slowly throttle
back to my usual cruising 4,800 RPM the engine seemed to loose power at 5,100
RPM. It actually felt as though it was going to stall. I throttled up to
5,400 for about 2 min. while I circled the airport, just in case. I was then
able to gradually throttle back to 4,800 and fly back (45mi) to my home
airport., no further problems. When I landed, the crop-duster pilot was
there, so I discussed the problem with him. He seemed to think carburator
icing was the problem. I was thinking it may have been the beginning of a
cold seizure. After I landed I did a run-up and the engine accelerated fine.
I did a few crow hops, again no problems. Any suggestions/ideas. THANKS!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Custom Labels |
Making labels.
I have the good fortune of having an Apls printer that uses water proof ink
so I made my labels using my computer and the this printer. I then used a
thin laminate to cover the labels and then attach the labels with spray
glue. So far they work great.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 8JulietBravo too fast -> aileron flutter |
Yeah, it's easy. Did mine that way, took about 15 minutes a side. Felt good
to get the rivet gun out after all the covering and painting.
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Saturday, May 26, 2001 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 8JulietBravo too fast -> aileron flutter
>
> I know I was at 78 knots (89 mph) just before the flutter
>> started. It started with small shaking of the stick left and right and
then
>> built quickly in magnitude and severity.
>> John Bickham
>
>
>John and Gang:
>
>Recommend you remain below 80 mph indicated until you get
>your ailerons balanced. That is where mine usually started,
>particularly in other than smooth air.
>
>Flutter will get your attention, won't it? :-)
>
>You will not have to mess up your paint or your fabric to
>install the counterbalance weights. Give me a call and I
>will tell you how to do it. I am sure I wrote the
>instructions on installing after the fact and posted to the
>List. Should be in the archives, if you can find them.
>
>The counterbalance weights will definitely take care of the
>problem. They did for me. I have 1,200 plus hours on the
>aileron rod end bearings and some slop in the controls with
>no hint of flutter.
>
>Real quick, down and dirty, here is how I mount
>counterbalance weights after the fact:
>
>Cut out the fabric from the outboard end of the leading edge
>of the aileron.
>
>Use a die grinder, dremel tool, or whatever, to grind the
>end of the two outboard aileron rivets flush with the inside
>of the tube.
>
>Slip in the new mount. Put four rivets in it to lock in
>place. I riveted mine on the leading edge after letting the
>aileron droop vertically after the push/pull tube was
>disconnected.
>
>If you have any questions, give me a call: 334-567-6280.
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 447 Cold Seizure? |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
> I need the help of all the engine gurus on the list. I had a
> "small"
> problem yesterday while flying my Firestar with a Rotax 447 (139
> hours, no
> prior problems).
Why not take off the exhaust manifold and check to see if the rings are
free. It doesn't take all that long to do, about an hour and can be done
without taking off the muffler and brackets. Did you ever re-torque the
head bolts after the initial 20 hours? If it has point ignition, has it
ever been timed? A few things for you to check.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar, w/447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Engine thrust line |
Can anyone tell me the effect of changing the the angle of the engine
mounting to the frame and how that effects the pitch of the plane. I
assume that it would have a direct effect on the pitch attitude and require
compensation in the stick.
The reason I ask is that when my fuselage cage was welded, they doubled
welded the back of the front motor mount bracket which caused the root tube
to deflect 3/16 inch downward.
It was done to makeup for a bad primary weld. This caused my engine to
pitch forward and changes the trust line. I did place one more washer
under the front of the mounting plate to compensate, but I'm thinking I
need to add more to get back the 3/16 inch. I'm having trouble getting my
FireFly trimmed out in pitch and I'm thinking it is being somewhat caused
by this.
Will this cause the plane to pitch down or up? I think I know but need
other opinions.
Thanks for any help!!!!
Terry K. The other Terry from Lancaster County, FireFly, 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
>
> balancing jetting & load. It takes a lot of experience to "read" a
>plug. I thought I knew what I was doing & it cost me an engine.
I believe it is more dangerous to believe a gauge than a physical
observation. EGTs are notorious for giving inaccurate readings. Location of
the probe on the pipe or depth into the pipe can greatly change the temp
reading. If I have 3 locations for the sensors in the pipe and get 3
different readings depending where I put the sensor which one should I use?
All locations could be with in a 1/2 inch of each other yet vary 100
degrees. Reading the plugs is very simple for a gross approximation of
combustion chamber heat. If it is black it is not burning the fuel
correctly - simple. I don't believe it has to be as difficult as tieing
down the aircraft and running up the engine either. The plugs will "stain"
to their normal operating colour with normal use. Don't make the job any
more complicated than necessary.
You did not tell us what the cht was doing at this time. I bet it is
very low the way you are flying now. Check your Mfg specs and run it to
that temp. Rotax will be around 425 max. Hirth is 525 max. If in doubt
believe the instruction book not the experts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Kolbers:
My thanks to each of you who responded with advice and information. Some
excellent points have been made, and much appreciated wisdom dispensed...
I need it all.
This morning, I started by unloading the prop a little. I pumped out the
little bit of the 45 to one mix in the tank (thanks, John)... replaced it
with precisely mixed 50 to one AMOCO Supreme.. Installed two new NGK's...
went and flew it for half an hour. Noticed that the EGT's and the head
temps seemed varying more between the two cylinders... During the WOT climb
at 6400 RPM, the rear cylinder EGT was only 990, while the front EGT was
1060... Then at 5800 cruise the EGT's were 1080 and 1140.respectively...
To my surprise, the heads were running just the opposite of the EGT...the
lowest EGT cylinder had the highest CHT (390), and the other CHT was only
reading 320.
Made a level WOT run for about 90 seconds to see where they settled out ...
Stabilized at 6640 on the tach...One EGT went to 1040, the other to 1080.
CHTs were both around 390.
In the pattern, EGTs punched up through 1240 at partial throttle (about
4000 RPM in a glide)... Immediately came down to 1000 when throttle was then
chopped completely while still gliding...
Back on the deck, pulled the new plugs... they were identical... slightly
wet and black around the barrel rim, gun metal gray and dry everywhere in
the cathode/anode and insulator area. no tan, no brown.
Popped the plugs back in, strapped the tail down and ran it 4 minutes at
5500... Hit the kill switch without touching the throttle... pulled the
plugs, they looked about the same... wet on the edges, dry and gray in the
center. No tan, no brown.
Looked at the piston tops through the plug holes... moderate carbon overall,
some small raised areas of heavier carbon, maybe .025" high were visible.
Considered pulling the intake manifold to look at the rings, but decided to
just go ahead and hit it with the Seafoam... Went through a slightly
modified form of the Seafoam catharsis procedures as so kindly provided by
Brother Burlingame and recommended by Brother Swiderski... couple of ounces
atop the piston at about TDC. reinsert the plug, and gently squeeze it down
past the rings with slight prop rotation... I couldn't give the back
cylinder the extended soak, because I must rotate the prop to horizontal to
fold the wings... But I did leave the S-elixir puddled in the other cylinder
at TDC when I put the Fly away in the trailer at mid-day.
The day's Rotax events leave me with several observations and questions:
(Not necessarily in priority)
-- I don't think a 30 hour engine should have this much carbon in it... I
think it is clearly running too rich
-- The EGT /CHTdeltas between the two cylinders is probably significant and
likely not just sensor inconsistencies... could early ring sticking produce
such symptoms?
-- Does the fact that the EGT's immediately cool way down when the throttle
is completely closed in the glide indicate that the idle jet size is
probably not a factor?
-- How much does the setting of the carb's adjustable idle air screw impact
the mixture at 3500 or 4000 RPM during a glide...? Like, say, if it were
set to admit too much air...? Tatamount to a vacuum leak isn't it?
-- How common is it for one of these things to have a narrow RPM band in a
glide which produces momentary EGT's above 1200...? From a practical
standpoint, is this a non-problem if you fly approaches in such a way as to
just stay out of the hot RPM range?
-- Should I use RTV hi-temp gasket sealant on the intake manifold gaskets?
The "book" didn't mention it, but it kinda bothers me not to put it on
there.
Tomorrow, I will withdraw the beast from its lair, run it up... and then
pull the intake side to look at the rings and see what happened... I know
overnight isn't long enough for the full effect, Ralph, but I'm borderline
Obsessive-Compulsive and I can't wait... Besides, I gotta go back to work
Tuesday, so I can't fool with it later in the week...
Tentative plan:
--Verify free rings
-- put the stupid metering rod back down from the #3 to the #2 notch where
it was
-- Check the interior of the carb (all the jets) for crud
-- Re-set/check the idle air screw
-- Go fly... fool with the prop pitch... watch the plugs/temps
Once again, I am very appreciative of the ideas and assistance you Kolbers
have provided... If anyone sees me doing anything super-stupid here, please
sound off...
Until a few months ago, I used to believe that hell was a place where they
made you drink nothing but tap water while forcing you to continuously watch
Barbara Streisand movies.... Now I am beginning to suspect hell is gonna
have some as yet unclear connection with 2-cycle aircraft engines...
Baffled Beauford of Brandon, FL
FF-076
P.S. The local Advance Auto Parts chain has NGK BR8ES plugs for $2.29...
The Bosch 4215 platinums were 9 cents less..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine thrust line |
In a message dated 5/27/01 8:06:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tkrolfe(at)epix.net
writes:
> Can anyone tell me the effect of changing the angle of the engine
> mounting to the frame and how that effects the pitch of the plane.
Terry,
The thrust line changes you are talking about will most likely affect the yaw
more than the pitch. If the thrust line is not aligned with the relative
airflow then the up going and down going blades of the propeller are at a
different pitch in the relative air flow causing yaw. Remember "P" factor.
Steven Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
| Subject: | Engine thrust line |
Hi Terry
Can't help you with your question. I can tell you I have several washer
under the front motor mount. I did mine just like Old Kolb did theirs and
never tried any different combinations. I just got back from flying this
evening. Was over to Smoketown, talked to Steve Lapp and Dick Bazzard, they
said you have yours flying again. Way to go. Tell me where your airstrip
is and I'll stop in sometime.
Terry S.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of TK
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2001 8:10 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Engine thrust line
Can anyone tell me the effect of changing the the angle of the engine
mounting to the frame and how that effects the pitch of the plane. I
assume that it would have a direct effect on the pitch attitude and require
compensation in the stick.
The reason I ask is that when my fuselage cage was welded, they doubled
welded the back of the front motor mount bracket which caused the root tube
to deflect 3/16 inch downward.
It was done to makeup for a bad primary weld. This caused my engine to
pitch forward and changes the trust line. I did place one more washer
under the front of the mounting plate to compensate, but I'm thinking I
need to add more to get back the 3/16 inch. I'm having trouble getting my
FireFly trimmed out in pitch and I'm thinking it is being somewhat caused
by this.
Will this cause the plane to pitch down or up? I think I know but need
other opinions.
Thanks for any help!!!!
Terry K. The other Terry from Lancaster County, FireFly, 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff" <firedude9(at)prodigy.net> |
Hey out there. I finally got my mark III to an air port (I found one
nearby that I didnt know existed...that's another story). I don't talk
much on the list but getting out on a runway is a real milestone in the
process of building and flying of an airplane and I had to say
something. I've still got several details to take care of, weight and
balance being one of the big ones, but she taxies great. I was getting
to the point of high speed taxying down the runway with the tail up. It
felt great. My buddy Merle Hargis was there for advice and mentoring and
it was a day I will savor for some time.
After going to S&F and seeing some of the show pieces there I felt like
I could have done a better job. But...Merle took some pictures that can
be viewed with winzip and if any of you are interested you can e-mail me
at firedude9(at)prodigy.net.
Also, after working out the bugs on the raven geo conversion it works
like a sweing machine. Smoooooth and strong. So far I am pleased with my
engine selection.
To you guys in the central Florida area, I found an airstrip just nw of
orlando on the southern edge of lake harney. Lake Harney is part of the
ST Johns river one lake south of Lake Monroe. I keep my plane there.
There are no services at the runway but if you are looking for another
place to land, check it out. Jeff in Oviedo Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs II |
In a message dated 5/27/01 8:42:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com writes:
>
I'm pretty sure that would be the exhaust manifold to check the rings.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
Woody wrote:
I don't believe it has to be as difficult as tieing
> down the aircraft and running up the engine either. The plugs will "stain"
> to their normal operating colour with normal use. Don't make the job any
> more complicated than necessary.
Hi Woody and Gang:
Well, it might be "making the job more complicated" but I
believe it is necessary to get an "accurate" indication of
what the engine is doing at full throttle and at mid-range.
Another question for Woody: In Canada, rather than update
"sectionals" every 6 months or so like they do down here in
the US, changes are made in the Canada Flight Supplement
that is revised every couple months. Is that correct?
Thanks and take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Having been a long time fan of Rocky and Bullwinkle,
(A stuffed figure of Dudly Dooright graces the dash of my Jeep)
I get this mental image of Natasha asking Boris:
"I see VaMoose, but vere is squverril?"
(He is sweating and sticking his wingtip through his screen porch...)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>More has been said off List, about the "Va-moose," and "Va-mouse" thread
>from the other day. Kinda neat............."Va-moose" is a Mk III, and
>I've already said I picture a cartoon moose on the tail, breathing fire,
>and pawing dirt. Still need an artist, tho'. How about, on the
>single seaters, a "Va-Mouse" like Speedy Gonzalez, or Mighty Mouse, or
>some such ??
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
>.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Ooooooohhhhhh.................OUCH ! ! ! Well, ya can't be all bad,
with tastes like those.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2001 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Critters
>
> Having been a long time fan of Rocky and Bullwinkle,
> (A stuffed figure of Dudly Dooright graces the dash of my Jeep)
> I get this mental image of Natasha asking Boris:
> "I see VaMoose, but vere is squverril?"
>
> (He is sweating and sticking his wingtip through his screen porch...)
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >More has been said off List, about the "Va-moose," and "Va-mouse" thread
> >from the other day. Kinda neat............."Va-moose" is a Mk III, and
> >I've already said I picture a cartoon moose on the tail, breathing fire,
> >and pawing dirt. Still need an artist, tho'. How about, on the
> >single seaters, a "Va-Mouse" like Speedy Gonzalez, or Mighty Mouse, or
> >some such ??
> >
> >Larry Bourne
> >Palm Springs, Ca.
> >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> >http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> >.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Figure the total cubic inches and divide by 231 to get gallons. 231 cubic
inches = 1 gallon.
Steven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 447 Cold Seizure? |
In a message dated 5/27/01 10:21:12 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Bklebon4(at)cs.com
writes:
> I was thinking it may have been the beginning of a
> cold seizure. After I landed I did a run-up and the engine accelerated
> fine.
>
A cold seizure is a scenario that is usually only found in water
cooled engines. If you think you may have run your engine out of spec and
the RPM drop was caused by piston scuffing you should remove the exhaust
manifold and examine the cylinder walls.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine thrust line |
>
>Can anyone tell me the effect of changing the the angle of the engine
>mounting to the frame and how that effects the pitch of the plane. I
>assume that it would have a direct effect on the pitch attitude and require
>compensation in the stick.
Basically, you want the engine to be pushing in the direction you are going
while at cruise speed in level flight. I could not get a good answer for
what the angle should be between the engine and the wing, and so I decided
to measure it. I built an angle of attack meter. You can see it at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly55.html
With it I determined at cruise speed (5600 rpm) and in level flight the
angle of attack came out to be seven degrees. Then I used an incline meter
to measure all the angles of the plane relative to the ground. See the
bottom of:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly.html
On the ground the bottom of the wing measures out to eleven degrees.
Subtracting seven from eleven gives four degrees. So, if the engine is set
so that the inclination of the prop extender is four degrees, the engine
would be pushing horizontal or in the direction of level flight. For me I
had to add washers under the mounts to raise the rear of the engine, and I
have raised it to 5.5 degrees instead of 4 degress. I assumed that there
is some angular rotation allowed by the engine mounts, but I know it will
not amount to 1.5 degrees. I may slip in one or two more washers later.
Since I have made the change, I notice the plane gets off the ground a
little quicker but the change is so small it may just be my imagination. I
have noticed no other change in flight characteristics.
I hope this will help you out.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Alexander <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> There is a free little download program at
> http:www.joshmadison.com/software
> that converts anything to anything as far as volume, weight
> mass, etc. Everyone ought to have a copy, it will work great for you.
Gotta add the slashes to get it to work.
http://www.joshmadison.com/software
George Alexander
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs II |
>-- I don't think a 30 hour engine should have this much carbon in it... I
>think it is clearly running too rich
I agree. The top of my pistons and underside of the cylinder head on my 532
had no carbon at all on them after about 50 hours flying last summer. I am
using Exxon 93 octane, Phillips Injex oil, and OMC Quicksilver fuel
additive. I try and keep my temps around 1075-1100, and the plugs are a
light tan.
>-- The EGT /CHTdeltas between the two cylinders is probably significant and
>likely not just sensor inconsistencies... could early ring sticking produce
>such symptoms?
Maybe. But I have two sensors, and one is always way too high. It's only
value is when it does something inconsistent with what it is usually doing.
If you suspect ring sticking, pull the exhaust manifold, and take a wooden
stick or something else that won't scratch anything, and you should be able
to press on the rings and see them move in and out a bit. When rings stick,
they usually start on the exhaust port side. But not always. In any event,
they should have some give to them.
>-- Does the fact that the EGT's immediately cool way down when the throttle
>is completely closed in the glide indicate that the idle jet size is
>probably not a factor?
Idle jet size is seldom a factor in what your temperatures are doing.
>-- How much does the setting of the carb's adjustable idle air screw impact
>the mixture at 3500 or 4000 RPM during a glide...? Like, say, if it were
>set to admit too much air...? Tatamount to a vacuum leak isn't it?
If it were that far off from where it ought to be, the engine wouldn't
idle. The only thing that really makes the idle circuit get odd is an
intake silencer. When I had one on my Hummer/Rotax277, I had to change
sizes on the removable idle jet or it would quit in the pattern at idle.
And now I don't remember if I had to go one bigger, or one smaller.
>-- How common is it for one of these things to have a narrow RPM band in a
>glide which produces momentary EGT's above 1200...? From a practical
>standpoint, is this a non-problem if you fly approaches in such a way as to
>just stay out of the hot RPM range?
It is normal. Don't worry about it. It is possible to attain/sustain high
EGT's in a long fast partial power descent where the engine is at 1/3-1/2
power and the airspeed is high enough to push the EGT's up around 1400 or
better. That is risky, but a short term transition through that range does
not seem to hurt.
>-- Should I use RTV hi-temp gasket sealant on the intake manifold gaskets?
>The "book" didn't mention it, but it kinda bothers me not to put it on
>there.
It is like feeding crackers to a dead man. You aren't going to hurt anything.
>Tomorrow, I will withdraw the beast from its lair, run it up... and then
>pull the intake side to look at the rings and see what happened...
Exhaust side! Exhaust side! Trying to look at the rings from the intake
side will require you to wear out your Moto-Tool.
>Until a few months ago, I used to believe that hell was a place where they
>made you drink nothing but tap water while forcing you to continuously watch
>Barbara Streisand movies.... Now I am beginning to suspect hell is gonna
>have some as yet unclear connection with 2-cycle aircraft engines...
You are correct. Barbara Streisand is in charge of Hell's Tech Support program.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 8JulietBravo too fast -> aileron flutter |
Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike
<>
Decided to install the counterweights I had ordered from TNK after John
Hauck's message. Of course, they came with no instructions. I "think" I
understand how to do it but if anyone has a nice photo or two that they would
share it would be really helpful.
Bill George
Mk-3 (Verner shipped this week)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 8JulietBravo too fast -> aileron flutter |
Hey, Guys,
You convinced me to get the counterbalancers. What does TNK get for the
set?
Thanks
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: <WGeorge737(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 8JulietBravo too fast -> aileron flutter
>
>
> < 88 mph. Guess that is the magic number. No problems after the mod. Follow
> John H.'s instructions. For cosmetics, paint them first, use a little
brush
> to touch up the paint around the end of the aileron tube where they slid
> in, touch up the rivit heads, it will look great.
> Richard Pike >>
>
> Decided to install the counterweights I had ordered from TNK after John
> Hauck's message. Of course, they came with no instructions. I "think" I
> understand how to do it but if anyone has a nice photo or two that they
would
> share it would be really helpful.
>
> Bill George
> Mk-3 (Verner shipped this week)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I looked at Convert, and downloaded it. Good Stuff ! ! ! It's also worth
looking over the rest of Josh Madison's site. Some is interesting, some is
funny. Thanks. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Alexander" <gtalexander(at)att.net>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel Tank
>
> Richard Pike wrote:
> >
> >
> > There is a free little download program at
> > http:www.joshmadison.com/software
> > that converts anything to anything as far as volume, weight
> > mass, etc. Everyone ought to have a copy, it will work great for you.
>
>
> Gotta add the slashes to get it to work.
>
> http://www.joshmadison.com/software
>
>
> George Alexander
> http://gtalexander.home.att.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
Jeff,
Congratulations on the taxi ride !! I just got mine up & around too!
I'll be getting out that way one of these days. When you're up lets
connect somewhere.
--- Jeff wrote:
>
> Hey out there. I finally got my mark III to an air port (I found one
> nearby that I didnt know existed...that's another story). I don't
> talk
> much on the list but getting out on a runway is a real milestone in
> the
> process of building and flying of an airplane and I had to say
> something. I've still got several details to take care of, weight and
> balance being one of the big ones, but she taxies great. I was
> getting
> to the point of high speed taxying down the runway with the tail up.
> It
> felt great. My buddy Merle Hargis was there for advice and mentoring
> and
> it was a day I will savor for some time.
> After going to S&F and seeing some of the show pieces there I felt
> like
> I could have done a better job. But...Merle took some pictures that
> can
> be viewed with winzip and if any of you are interested you can e-mail
> me
> at firedude9(at)prodigy.net.
> Also, after working out the bugs on the raven geo conversion it works
> like a sweing machine. Smoooooth and strong. So far I am pleased with
> my
> engine selection.
> To you guys in the central Florida area, I found an airstrip just nw
> of
> orlando on the southern edge of lake harney. Lake Harney is part of
> the
> ST Johns river one lake south of Lake Monroe. I keep my plane there.
> There are no services at the runway but if you are looking for
> another
> place to land, check it out. Jeff in Oviedo Fl.
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3 269LJ, 582, 6 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Mag drop.....Big.....Bad ! |
Got a big - 1800 +/- drop in the right mag at run-up today!?! Came
back, changed plugs (was at 26 hrs anyway), same thing?!? Had been
fine with 150 +/- drop in each. About to go to the manuals, thought
I'd ask you all. Any thoughts?
Also, anybody else with bubbles in the fuel line? Got a facet before
the fuel pump like a lot of you, but always bubbles. Runs (ran) great,
cause no bubble get up to the engine's fuel pump. ?!?!
Thanks
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3 269LJ, 582, 6 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
>
>
>Another question for Woody: In Canada, rather than update
>"sectionals" every 6 months or so like they do down here in
>the US, changes are made in the Canada Flight Supplement
>that is revised every couple months. Is that correct?
>
>Thanks and take care,
>
>john h
I've been having so much fun with ultralights these past 20 years I have
gotten out of the private sector. I still maintain my private licence but
have not flown a cessna in 25 yrs and have no desire to get back in one. I
do get the supplements every couple months which tells us of changes in
rules and airspace restrictions and modifications. I don't usually read
them. Perhaps there is another Canuck more familiar with these rules You
still out there Kim?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
>Also, after working out the bugs on the raven geo conversion it works
>like a sweing machine. Smoooooth and strong. So far I am pleased with my
>engine selection.
So where did all these rumours of the Geo being a real shaker come from?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: getting my private pilot ticket |
I just finished my license lately too! The FAA stuff is free on the
web, try here for the test questions and books.
http://www.faa.gov/aviation.htm
If this is not the right area, keep poking around, you can find all 738
questions there somewhere.
Congratulations on getting done with this - I know it is a big job.
Write off list or call 904-937-0541 for just chatting about it all.
Good luck on the rest!!
--- kb8wlu wrote:
>
> Hi Folks!
>
> I am finally getting my ppl. I am in ground school right now
> finishing up
> Tuesday of next week. my instructor gave me geims ninth edition witch
> is
> current. wow after looking thru the book and realized their is 738
> faa
> questions which only have to take a 60 question test.. wow this is
> tuff I
> was wondering if anyone has the gleims faa test prep software that I
> could
> purchase from them that would help.
>
>
> thanks Paul Robinson....
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3 269LJ, 582, 6 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 05/04/01 message of Fri, |
4 May...
Yes, I certainly could have placed too much side load on the bearing causing
them to grenade. However, they showed almost now grease inside the
bearings, and I believe this top be the predominate factor in their failure.
Yes, the American bearings are superior in every regard.
Regards,
Dave Rains
FS II
El Paso Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Date: Sunday, May 27, 2001 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 05/04/01 message of
Fri, 4 May...
>
>In a message dated 5/5/01 9:53:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>dixieshack(at)webtv.net writes:
>
><< My plane has not flown yet. I found the Chinese bearings nearly dry.
> Popped one seal on each and packed them. Question. Could those of you
> who've had a failure possibly have preloaded the bearings when
> installing the wheel? They're ball bearings and won't accept much side
> loading which tightening the axle nut would do. Any wheel that isn't
> perfectly aligned will have a sideload any time the plane moves which
> ain't good on ball bearings. Did going to good ol' US of A bearings
> cure the problem? If so, I want to change mine before flying.
> Hi GeorgeR38
>
> Hillbilly Mike (again)
> FSII in WV about ready to fly
> >>
>Mike, Um finly back from the sequestered life of an ol fart in Fla and
workin
>for a livin agin. But I still have 460 out of 660 messages to respond to on
>my email and it may take a cupla years.
>I know about your bearing dialogue awee bit as they are not thrust type
>bearings and I have already gone through several pair ...I think primarily
>cause of my lousy job of lining them up originally as I have a severe toe
in
>problem as well as a top out problem. But I go through so many bent landing
>gear that my bearings don't git a chance to roll that much anyway.
>The fella who bought the bar to span from the one fitting to the next to
>assure alignment sure was a smart one. Ceptin I couldn't do that on my
>original Firestar ...well....not really original....but KX version
....cause
>Kolb didn't have the style of fitting with the alignment hole in it then.
But
>y'see my landings are so up and down instead of over that the bearings
serve
>only as fillers to enable me to git to the softness of the tire so that I
can
>sustain the longevity of my butt. I have about 8 bent gear.
>good talkin to ya mike!
>GeoR38
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rbaker(at)shop4zero.com" <rbaker(at)ccgnv.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 8JulietBravo too fast -> aileron flutter |
Denny,
They charged me 36.99 plus shipping on 6/19/2000.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, FL
Mark III, 912,BRS,N329RB.
95% Done, 20% to go
----- Original Message -----
From: Denny Rowe <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 8JulietBravo too fast -> aileron flutter
>
> Hey, Guys,
> You convinced me to get the counterbalancers. What does TNK get for the
> set?
> Thanks
> Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kim Steiner" <steiner(at)spreda.sk.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
Still here, just finished a 140 mile flight out and a 140 mile flight back
a while ago.
Went to a fly-in breakfast. I am planning on a similar flight next Sunday.
Shoal Lake,
Manitoba is having a fly-in.
I can not help with regulations as there is very little air traffic out here
on the prairies and I do
not keep as current as I should with all the latest regulations.
Kim Steiner
Saskatchewan, Canada
> I've been having so much fun with ultralights these past 20 years I
have
> gotten out of the private sector. I still maintain my private licence but
> have not flown a cessna in 25 yrs and have no desire to get back in one. I
> do get the supplements every couple months which tells us of changes in
> rules and airspace restrictions and modifications. I don't usually read
> them. Perhaps there is another Canuck more familiar with these rules You
> still out there Kim?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff" <firedude9(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: taxying,geo. |
Hey Woody, my experience is limited to about 8hrs static(in my back yard)
and 1 hour (saturday) taxying. There is some high frequency vibration at
some rpm levels but for the most part it is quite smooth. With the Raven
exhaust it is reasonably quiet with a sound that is unique to a 3 cylinder.
I dont have alot of time in front of Rotaxes, but from what I can recollect,
it is quite a bit smoother than the 912. You may be confusing vibrations
with torsionals. Between the belt drive and the rubber cushioned prop hub,
the torsionals have been quelled as well. Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Date: Monday, May 28, 2001 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: taxying
>
>
>>
>>
>>Also, after working out the bugs on the raven geo conversion it works
>>like a sweing machine. Smoooooth and strong. So far I am pleased with my
>>engine selection.
>
>
> So where did all these rumours of the Geo being a real shaker come from?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Coggins, Josh, NPONS" <joshcoggins(at)att.com> |
While we are on the subject of the coloration of spark plugs, I have never
heard of what kind of color to expect on the plugs if you are using
synthetic oil? I believe that the chocolate brown color is the color you
are supposed to be looking for when using a mineral base two cycle oil. But
I have noticed that when I changed from mineral based oil to synthetic oil
the plugs were a lot lighter in color. The other factor is what kind of
fuel is being used. When you use 100LL the plugs get a greyish color on
them due to the lead content in the fuel. This grey color doesn't show up
when using automotive fuel. So, I think you have to take these factors into
consideration when adjusting your engine's jetting.
Josh
-----Original Message-----
From: Woody [mailto:duesouth(at)govital.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2001 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Cruddy Plugs
>
>
>Another question for Woody: In Canada, rather than update
>"sectionals" every 6 months or so like they do down here in
>the US, changes are made in the Canada Flight Supplement
>that is revised every couple months. Is that correct?
>
>Thanks and take care,
>
>john h
I've been having so much fun with ultralights these past 20 years I have
gotten out of the private sector. I still maintain my private licence but
have not flown a cessna in 25 yrs and have no desire to get back in one. I
do get the supplements every couple months which tells us of changes in
rules and airspace restrictions and modifications. I don't usually read
them. Perhaps there is another Canuck more familiar with these rules You
still out there Kim?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cruddy Plugs |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
>
> While we are on the subject of the coloration of spark plugs, I have
> never
> heard of what kind of color to expect on the plugs if you are using
> synthetic oil? I believe that the chocolate brown color is the
> color you
> are supposed to be looking for when using a mineral base two cycle
> oil. But
> I have noticed that when I changed from mineral based oil to
> synthetic oil
> the plugs were a lot lighter in color. > Josh
Josh and others,
Yes the synthetic oil will produce a lighter brown color than mineral
oils. As the spark plugs accrue more time, they will darken some but not
as dark as the minerals. As long as they are brown or tan I know the
mixture is fine.
By the way, for the benefit of Beauford and gang I backed off the
throttle while cruising around the countryside yesterday afternoon to
find the point where the EGT would rise. At 5000 it was 1100 and at 4500
it was 1200 degrees. The outside are temp was 60 degrees, so the actual
EGT temp was at 1185 because the sensor is calibrated at 75. (75 minus
OAT is subtracted from the instrument reading. If the OAT is warmer than
75, it would be that minus 75 and is added to the reading). This is only
a concern when flying in extreme warm or cold temperatures, but I think
an air-cooled engine running in 95+ deg temps would be hard on the engine
(I'm from Minnesota).
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar, w/447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Gherkins" <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com> |
Kolbers,
Along with the life dream of building and flying my own aircraft
(Firestar II), I have always dreamed about going to Oshkosh. Well, my
uncle and myself are going this year!!!
Now, this topic may be a bit early, but, Oshkosh EAA fly-in is only 8
weeks away. I was in hopes that many will read this and get on the band
wagon and start setting preparations to go. It would be great to meet
all who can go and talk Kolb.
Does anybody live in Green Bay that would allow us to bum/pay for a ride
to Oshkosh?
We will be camping, is there any details/hints to know to make the
experience great?
Looking forward to many comments,
Tim and Craig
building Firestar @ Extra Kolbs
www.milows.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
1. Ultralights fly early in the morning and after 6 in the evening.
2. Airshow everyday in the afternoon.
3. It's big! Pace yourself. You probably will not see everything in one year.
4. Bring lots of money--food and drinks are expensive.
5. Don't bring any money--there are tons of great things to buy in the exhibitor
buildings.
6. Excellent free workshops going on constantly--but you cannot go them all!
7. Outstanding museum (air conditioned) included in the price of admission.
8. Camping is crowded, a step above primitive. Hotels and motels fill up fast.
9. Wonderful speakers and entertainment in the evenings.
10. We are going again this year--maybe flying in.
Dale Seitzer
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Gherkins
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 1:35 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Oshkosh
Kolbers,
Along with the life dream of building and flying my own aircraft
(Firestar II), I have always dreamed about going to Oshkosh. Well, my
uncle and myself are going this year!!!
Now, this topic may be a bit early, but, Oshkosh EAA fly-in is only 8
weeks away. I was in hopes that many will read this and get on the band
wagon and start setting preparations to go. It would be great to meet
all who can go and talk Kolb.
Does anybody live in Green Bay that would allow us to bum/pay for a ride
to Oshkosh?
We will be camping, is there any details/hints to know to make the
experience great?
Looking forward to many comments,
Tim and Craig
building Firestar @ Extra Kolbs
www.milows.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
I live in Michigan but I attend almost every year. Sorry can't help with ride from
Green Bay. If you are camping in the EAA camp ground you will want a bicycle.
The camp ground is huge and you will get enough walking once you get in the
gate. Also there is a gate by the Ultra light area that you can ride to that
saves many more steps.
Some years we have planned a Kolb builders/flyers get together at the Kolb trailer.
How does 1:00-2:00 PM daily sound?
Rick Neilsen
Direct Drive VW powered MKIII
>>> rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com 05/29/01 02:34PM >>>
Kolbers,
Along with the life dream of building and flying my own aircraft
(Firestar II), I have always dreamed about going to Oshkosh. Well, my
uncle and myself are going this year!!!
Now, this topic may be a bit early, but, Oshkosh EAA fly-in is only 8
weeks away. I was in hopes that many will read this and get on the band
wagon and start setting preparations to go. It would be great to meet
all who can go and talk Kolb.
Does anybody live in Green Bay that would allow us to bum/pay for a ride
to Oshkosh?
We will be camping, is there any details/hints to know to make the
experience great?
Looking forward to many comments,
Tim and Craig
building Firestar @ Extra Kolbs
www.milows.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | SUSSEX ULTRALIGHT FLY IN |
Anyone attending the Ultralight fly in at Sussex Airport , New Jersey ? It is
June 2nd and 3rd.
Dave Snyder Long Branch ,N.J. Building FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Gang,
I've been wondering if anyone has put a counter balanceing rod on the
elevators , the same way the ailerons are done.
Would it be too much weight to add to the tail area ? Just kinda curious to
here some feedback......Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN building FSII ( just rigged my cables , still got a long way to
go )
Sometimes you just have to take the leap and build your wings on the way down...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine thrust line |
Jack & Louise Hart wrote:
>
> >
> >Can anyone tell me the effect of changing the the angle of the engine
> >mounting to the frame and how that effects the pitch of the plane. I
> >assume that it would have a direct effect on the pitch attitude and require
> >compensation in the stick.
>
> Basically, you want the engine to be pushing in the direction you are going
> while at cruise speed in level flight. I could not get a good answer for
> what the angle should be between the engine and the wing, and so I decided
> to measure it. I built an angle of attack meter. You can see it at:
>
Jack & Steve,
Thanks for the replies to my question on motor pitch. I did place another
washer under the front motor mount to compensate for the tube deflection. I
have it about where it should have been from TNK. Flew this morning and didn't
notice allot of change, but it seemed to perform well.
Jack, that is real impressive what you did to get the true flight angle. Now
I'm considering doing the same to find out where I'm at. Thanks!
Terry K. The other Lancaster County Terry, FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Alexander <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SUSSEX ULTRALIGHT FLY IN |
TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Anyone attending the Ultralight fly in at Sussex Airport , New Jersey ? It is
> June 2nd and 3rd.
>
> Dave Snyder Long Branch ,N.J. Building FSII
Dave:
I know several of the UL people from Newton are planning to
be there.
In years past, they have had a decent turnout from NJ,
nearby places in NY & PA.
See you there.
George Alexander
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
PS: If you plan to fly up and come by Newton (3N5 Latitude:
41 38.35" North Longitude: 74 30.59" West), watch out for
the sky divers. They are good about announcing on 122.9
(Newton) and 127.6 (CTC NY) at intervals from 5 minutes down
to 0 minutes (Jumpers away!). They start jumping around 9AM
on weekends and continue until almost dark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
I got this warning today and found the virus on my computer. Click your
start button and then the find icon. type in sulfnbk.exe. If it finds
anything right click it and delete it. Then go into the recycle bin and
right click and delete it from there too.
I'VE BEEN WARNED OF A VIRUS TRANSMITTED TROUGH EMAILS THAT IS SUPPOSED TO BE
EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND TO BE ACTIVATED ON THE FIRST OF JUNE. I FOUND IT ON
MY COMPUTER (C:\Windows\Command) THAT IS WHY I'M WARNING YOU, ITS NAME IS
SULFNBK.EXE
SO PLEASE ERASE IT FROM YOUR PC AND DISKETTES, THAT INCLUDES THE RECYCLE BIN.
DO NOT OPEN IT, JUST DELETE IT. ONCE YOU HAVE FOUND IT, RIGHT CLICK ON ITS
ICON (BLACK AND WHITE, NOT EASY TO READ) AND CHOOSE DELETE
THIS A NEW VIRUS (???)AND THE ANTIVIRUS STILL CAN NOT DETECT IT.
SORRY BUT IT HAPPENS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: virus..NOT!!!!! |
DON'T DO IT...DO NOT DELETE THE FILE, IT IS PART OF YOUR OPERATING SYSTEM.
SULFNBK.EXE, a utility shipped as part of the Windows 98 operating system
that allows users to restore long file names, and now the victim of a bogus
virus warning. The hoax message urges users to search their systems for the
presence of SULFNBK.EXE and, if found, delete it. Of course, it's a
legitimate Win98 operating system file, so anyone running Windows 98 will
find it. And many, it seems, have deleted it.
http://antivirus.about.com/library/weekly/aa052601a.htm
In a message dated 5/29/01 11:18:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
duesouth(at)govital.net writes:
> I got this warning today and found the virus on my computer. Click your
> start button and then the find icon. type in sulfnbk.exe. If it finds
> anything right click it and delete it. Then go into the recycle bin and
> right click and delete it from there too.
>
> I'VE BEEN WARNED OF A VIRUS TRANSMITTED TROUGH EMAILS THAT IS SUPPOSED TO BE
> EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND TO BE ACTIVATED ON THE FIRST OF JUNE. I FOUND IT ON
> MY COMPUTER (C:\Windows\Command) THAT IS WHY I'M WARNING YOU, ITS NAME IS
> SULFNBK.EXE
> SO PLEASE ERASE IT FROM YOUR PC AND DISKETTES, THAT INCLUDES THE RECYCLE
> BIN.
> DO NOT OPEN IT, JUST DELETE IT. ONCE YOU HAVE FOUND IT, RIGHT CLICK ON ITS
> ICON (BLACK AND WHITE, NOT EASY TO READ) AND CHOOSE DELETE
>
> THIS A NEW VIRUS (???)AND THE ANTIVIRUS STILL CAN NOT DETECT IT.
>
> SORRY BUT IT HAPPENS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> I got this warning today and found the virus on my computer. Click your
> start button and then the find icon. type in sulfnbk.exe. If it finds
> anything right click it and delete it. Then go into the recycle bin and
> right click and delete it from there too.
Woody
Woody and Gang:
This is a hoax. Go to Symantec and read about it:
http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/sulfnbk.exe.warning.html
You probably want to see if you can get another copy of the
file you deleted cause it is part of your Windows program
that deals with long file names and is a necessary
component.
You can check these things out before you send them, plus a
number of other hoaxes, urban legends, etc., at this url:
http://www.smsu.edu/contrib/library/resource/hoaxes.html
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Gassmann <agassmann(at)earthlink.net> |
About the virus.
If you erased it, contact me via e-mail. I can send, it is only 44kbytes long.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
I followed the instructions and deleted! Would appreciate having the
file if it actually does what they say.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
Andrew Gassmann wrote:
>
>
> About the virus.
>
> If you erased it, contact me via e-mail. I can send, it is only 44kbytes long.
>
> Andy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TBarry" <tbarrysprint(at)earthlink.net> |
I deleted the file. Please send me a copy . Thanks in advance.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Gassmann <agassmann(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: virus
>
>About the virus.
>
>If you erased it, contact me via e-mail. I can send, it is only 44kbytes
long.
>
>Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Aileron balance weight intallation |
Hi Gang,
With the help of Kolb listers John Hauck and Dennis Souder I finally found
out why I couldn't install the counterweight kit. The builder of my plane put
a nice, graceful large radius bow on the tips. This meant that the outboard
end of the wingtip and aileron angled in toward the fuselage about 12
degrees.
The balance tube weight arm must be perpendicular to the aileron tube, i.e.,
point straight forward. The wing tip will interfere with the balance arm
unless it is perfectly straight along the long axis of the airplane.
If you have non standard wingtips you will need to modify the balance kit.
Bill George
MK-3 (Verner 1400 engine has been shipped, Powerfin "F" 72" prop ordered)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Group; Question Can anyone tell me if the Rotax 447 exhaust has
fittings for 2 egt probes or just one? Is it necessary to have dual egt?
Also , is it easier to install the instruments in the pod before installing
it to the air frame or later. What size hole do you need to drill to
accomodate the 2 1/4 in square gauges and how far apart should the hole
centers be. I dont have instruments yet, but I want to keep making progress
so i can be ready to install instruments when they arrive, if possible . Has
anyone tried getting hinge pin material and making hinge pins by making a 90
degree bend (1/4 in) on one end, then inserting it and bending it down 90
degrees on the other end also. Seems like it would be easier if you ever
needed to remove the control surfaces . All advice is appreciated.
Planning on being at Oshkosh 26th ---- 29th
Ed Diebel
Building Firefly
Houston Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: virus..NOT!!!!! |
>
>DON'T DO IT...DO NOT DELETE THE FILE, IT IS PART OF YOUR OPERATING SYSTEM.
I'm so embarrased. I got suckered in to an urban legend. Sorry for any
trouble I may have caused. I'll bring extra Canadian beer to the Kolb
picnic next time to apologize.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>About the virus.
>
>If you erased it, contact me via e-mail. I can send, it is only 44kbytes long.
>
>Andy
I come to you on bended knee and egg on my face. May I have the file also.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Free admission chit to EAA Museum |
As a gift (free gift--are there any others?) for renewing EAA mag, I
rec'd the above ticket. Worth 34 to anyone? Send email and first one
get the chit sent FailMail.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
multipart/mixed
application/octet-stream
--- StripMime Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bonnie Juneau <bjuneau(at)megagate.com> |
| Subject: | squeeze bulb by-pass |
Hey Kolbers
I need some opinions. Do I need a bi-pass line around my fuel line
squeeze bulb or not? Has anyone had any problems with the check valves
in the squeeze bulb sticking and stopping fuel flow to the carburaters?
Thanks for your opinions.
Ron Juneau
Firestar II
Fond de Culotte
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dama(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: squeeze bulb by-pass |
I used a couple of nylon "Y" fittings and a $3.00 valve to close while priming.
One less thing to go wrong. All parts are easy to find (Aircraft Spruce).
Kip Laurie
Firestar II
503
Atlanta
kolb-list(at)matronics.com wrote:
Hey Kolbers
I need some opinions. Do I need a bi-pass line around my fuel line
squeeze bulb or not? Has anyone had any problems with the check valves
in the squeeze bulb sticking and stopping fuel flow to the carburaters?
Thanks for your opinions.
Ron Juneau
Firestar II
Fond de Culotte
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Howard Ping" <howard.ping(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: squeeze bulb by-pass |
When I built by FS in 94. I installed a bypass around
the squeeze bulb, ( I don't trust them, they are the
frist place I look when my outboard motor quits). I
also change the blub annually.
H Ping
FS2
http://home1.gte.net/03i0o
----- Original Message -----
From: Bonnie Juneau <bjuneau(at)megagate.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 12:13 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: squeeze bulb by-pass
>
> Hey Kolbers
> I need some opinions. Do I need a bi-pass line around my fuel line
> squeeze bulb or not? Has anyone had any problems with the check valves
> in the squeeze bulb sticking and stopping fuel flow to the carburaters?
> Thanks for your opinions.
>
> Ron Juneau
> Firestar II
> Fond de Culotte
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: squeeze bulb by-pass |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
>
>
> Hey Kolbers
> I need some opinions. Do I need a bi-pass line around my fuel line
> squeeze bulb or not? Has anyone had any problems with the check
> valves
> in the squeeze bulb sticking and stopping fuel flow to the
> carburaters?
> Thanks for your opinions.
>
> Ron Juneau
> Firestar II
> Fond de Culotte
Bypassing the squeeze bulb is a must. I would never trust those check
valves in those things. I've had mine on there for 14 years and as long
as it's not cracked or leaking, I don't care because it's bypassed.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar w/447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Berry" <sc_bassman(at)hotmail.com> |
I went last year. It's great, but rather tiring. In addition to plenty
money (as Dale indicated), I recommend taking some really good walking
shoes, light chair, hat, suntan lotion, small umbrella, camera, and anything
else you will need each day. But be selective in what you take to make it
as light as possible ... cause it gets pretty heavy after awhile. There are
trolleys ... but you will still be doing lots of walking. I carried one of
those chairs from Walmart that is sort of like a backpack that you can carry
over your arms. Worked pretty good. I could probably have sold it for 2-3
times it's value up there ... LOL. Oh, and I was fairly suprised that it
got cool up there a day or two last year ... even in July .. so carry both
warm and cooler clothing on your trip. Good luck :-)
Kolbers,
Along with the life dream of building and flying my own aircraft
(Firestar II), I have always dreamed about going to Oshkosh. Well, my
uncle and myself are going this year!!!
Looking forward to many comments,
Tim and Craig
building Firestar @ Extra Kolbs
www.milows.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. Krunnfusz" <pentref(at)baraboo.com> |
Hope this is OK to put on the Kolb Digest list.
Bad health means flying is no longer an option and forces me to sell a beautiful
1999 Kolb Firestar II. For details, call me (Gordon) at 608-356-8036 or
608-356-1722 or E-mail me at Glasfryn(at)go.com.
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: squeeze bulb by-pass |
Ron,
One way is to avoid the problem is to leave out the squeeze bulb and
install a primer. I have gone both ways and I like the primer the best.
The primer also eliminates the need for a remote choke.
John Jung
Bonnie Juneau wrote:
>
> Hey Kolbers
> I need some opinions. Do I need a bi-pass line around my fuel line
> squeeze bulb or not?
snip...........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DMe5430944(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 05/30/01 |
Hi I just subscribed and thought it time to introduce myself to all. My name
is Don Mekeel, live in El Paso, Texas, I have a Firefly hangered at West
Texas Airport, Lite Speed Aviation in Kentucky built it as I didn't have time
to build my self. Haven't flown an ultralite before so am learning carefully.
Good friend Will Uribe has helped me out. Again Hi to everyone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: squeeze bulb by-pass |
In a message dated 5/31/01 11:08:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrjung(at)execpc.com writes:
> One way is to avoid the problem is to leave out the squeeze bulb and
> install a primer. I have gone both ways and I like the primer the best.
> The primer also eliminates the need for a remote choke.
>
> John Jung
>
>
John, I already have the primer and would like to eliminate the squeeze bulb
and choke; where did you pick up the fuel for the primer? Seems you would
have to pick it up from the bottom of the fuel tank.....
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Hempy <dhempy(at)dlmail.ket.org> |
| Subject: | Re: squeeze bulb by-pass |
>
>John, I already have the primer and would like to eliminate the squeeze bulb
>and choke; where did you pick up the fuel for the primer? Seems you would
>have to pick it up from the bottom of the fuel tank.....
You certainly won't need the choke if you have a primer. Should be able to avoid
the evil squeeze bulb, too.
You don't need to tap into the tank for the engine primer. Get a 1/4x1/4x1/8"
Tee from your favorite UL supplier or your local AutoZone. I've only seen white
plastic tee's at the part store listed as a vacuum tee. They won't have anything
named a fuel tee that will fit. I've been using the vacuum fittings for
fuel for nigh on eight years with no problem...I'm sure that's what the UL places
are selling.
Anyway, just cut your fuel line anywhere convenient and insert the tee. You can
then run 1/8" line to the primer and then the carb(s). Don't forget a 1/8x1/8x1/8"
tee for dual carbs.
Someone posted that you could prime the lines up to the fuel pump by tapping into
the 1/4" line just before the pump. That way, when you pump the engine primer,
it will draw fuel up to the pump. I've never seen it, but it makes sense.
-dave
--
David Hempy
Internet Database Administrator
Kentucky Educational Television - Distance Learning Division
-- (859)258-7164 -- (800)333-9764
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: squeeze bulb by-pass |
Howard and Gang,
Something that Ronnie Smith showed me and it made sense was to install
the primer with the suction of the primer pulling off the main fuel line as
close to the fuel pump as possible. What this will do when you prime the
carbs is to fill your fuel line all the way to the fuel pump so that when
the engine starts the fuel doesn't have as far to travel.
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II #1162 503 DCDI
>
> > One way is to avoid the problem is to leave out the squeeze bulb and
> > install a primer. I have gone both ways and I like the primer the best.
> > The primer also eliminates the need for a remote choke.
> >
> > John Jung
> >
> >
>
> John, I already have the primer and would like to eliminate the squeeze
bulb
> and choke; where did you pick up the fuel for the primer? Seems you
would
> have to pick it up from the bottom of the fuel tank.....
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS I
> SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lisa Turner" <LISATURNER(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Kolb Mark III on Floats? |
Hi Fellow Kolbers,
Sent this a little while ago but it didn't reach the list. I'll try again.
Let me know if I'm not using the right address!
Lisa
----- Original Message -----
From: Lisa Turner <LISATURNER(at)prodigy.net>
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 8:54 PM
Subject: Kolb Mark III on Floats?
> Hello Kolbers,
>
> In spite of work life interfering with my personal life, I am making
> progress on my Mark III. I figure I am halfway done with 80% to go! A
guy
> down the street has some fiberglass floats for sale - about the size for a
> Kitfox (#1150 made by Stoddard Hamilton, amphibious).
>
> Has anyone bought floats or mounted floats, or researched floats for the
> Mark III? If so, do you have any supplier info and or price info or where
I
> could go to find this information?
>
> Appreciate any replies.
> Thanks,
> Lisa
Boynton Beach Florida
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Muffler coating places |
In a message dated 5/31/01 9:37:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lightflyer(at)email.msn.com writes:
> OK, I'm not having any luck with the archives. I received the big noise
> maker today and want to send my mufleroff to be coated. Is there a place in
> the Texas/Ok area that does this?
>
>
UPS to Jet-Hot Coatings- about 10 days total. Mine has over 220 hrs. and
still looks new. 1 800 432-3379
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 05/30/01 |
Welcome aboard Don.
You are lucky to have a friend with Wills experience. Good luck and enjoy
that Firestar.
I look forward to reading your future posts on your flying adventures.
Denny Rowe.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DMe5430944(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 3:20 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 05/30/01
>
> Hi I just subscribed and thought it time to introduce myself to all. My
name
> is Don Mekeel, live in El Paso, Texas, I have a Firefly hangered at West
> Texas Airport, Lite Speed Aviation in Kentucky built it as I didn't have
time
> to build my self. Haven't flown an ultralite before so am learning
carefully.
> Good friend Will Uribe has helped me out. Again Hi to everyone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: squeeze bulb by-pass |
Where did you mount the primer pump itself??
Ron Payne
Building FS II
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: squeeze bulb by-pass
>
> Howard and Gang,
> Something that Ronnie Smith showed me and it made sense was to install
> the primer with the suction of the primer pulling off the main fuel line
as
> close to the fuel pump as possible. SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: squeeze bulbs |
I guess I will put my two cents in because I am a real believer in the bulbs.
I have had my bacon saved several times because of one. If you put a
by-pass on it how are you going to use it in an emergency? I have mine right
over my right shoulder where I can get at it. It got me through a failed
pump and a carb slug and also what I believe was icing. The extra pressure
did the trick. I have access to my enricher valve which has been more than
handy. If you have engine trouble while flying, you hit the enricher to see
if it is electrical or gas. If that fails you hit the bulb - or vice-versa.
Main thing is stay in the air with the engine running as long as possible.
You can put an elec. pulse pump on and that is good but I like to KIS. My
two cents. Ted Cowan, Alabama - p.s. put a filter between the pump and the
bulb in case something comes through.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: squeeze bulb by-pass |
Howard,
I currently pick up the primer fuel just above the filter, but I plan to
separate the primer system from the main fuel line. I think the best
place for
primer pickup is the bottom of the tank. But I don't like any holes in the
bottoms of my tanks, so I will use another fuel pickup through the top with
it's own filter. The reason that I want them separated is to minimize potential
fuel problems to the engine.
John Jung
HShack(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> John, I already have the primer and would like to eliminate the squeeze bulb
> and choke; where did you pick up the fuel for the primer? Seems you would
> have to pick it up from the bottom of the fuel tank.....
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS I
> SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Kolb Mark III on Floats? |
Lisa, here are some thoughts. You have 2 basic choices here. 2 float
systems or mono-float systems. The 2 float systems add more drag (more
tubes and braces out in the wind) but give you a place to step out of the
plane without getting wet. And then you have the mono-float type (ie one
large float right under the center of the plane with little outriggers on
the ends of the wings for balance.
The pros and cons of the monofloat system are opposite from the 2 float
system. Less drag but you have to beach it or drop the wheels and run it up
a boat ramp to get out dry. Your call there...
If you like the 2 float idea then get in touch with Frank Reynen. He is on
this list again after being gone for a while and he has a web page at...
http://www.webcom.com/reynen/mark3.html
He used the Full Lotus floats but the basics are the same as to how to mount
them...
If you like the idea of the Mono-float system then you are in luck. You
need to get in touch with Jack Krips who is in your neck of the woods in
Winterpark, Fl. He has built several Kolbs and all on floats. You can see
his current Mark 3 on my web page at...
http://d-bcasey.home.mindspring.com/misc.htm
Don't have his number anymore but TNK can probably put you in touch or just
try the phone book... Anyway hope this helps.
Another thought just for general knowledge on the subject, Full Lotus has
several faq sheets and other information on their web site that would be
worth a read depending on what you know now. Also check out the seaplane
pilots association at...
http://www.seaplanes.org/
Happy hunting...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lisa Turner
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 8:55 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: Kolb Mark III on Floats?
Hi Fellow Kolbers,
Sent this a little while ago but it didn't reach the list. I'll try again.
Let me know if I'm not using the right address!
Lisa
----- Original Message -----
From: Lisa Turner <LISATURNER(at)prodigy.net>
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 8:54 PM
Subject: Kolb Mark III on Floats?
> Hello Kolbers,
>
> In spite of work life interfering with my personal life, I am making
> progress on my Mark III. I figure I am halfway done with 80% to go! A
guy
> down the street has some fiberglass floats for sale - about the size for a
> Kitfox (#1150 made by Stoddard Hamilton, amphibious).
>
> Has anyone bought floats or mounted floats, or researched floats for the
> Mark III? If so, do you have any supplier info and or price info or where
I
> could go to find this information?
>
> Appreciate any replies.
> Thanks,
> Lisa
Boynton Beach Florida
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Kolb Mark III on Floats? |
Hi Lisa
I have a MKIII on Full Lotus floats already for 10 years since the plane was
new and have 650 hrs flown with it with close to 1500 landings and T/O.
see website:
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
There are several brands of floats for MKIII and as long as they have at
least 2000# floatation capacity, they will be large enough to hold the
plane afloat.
There are some points to keep in mind.
First off, the MKIII is a long plane and needs long floats and my
recommendation is at least 14 ft with water rudders for windy conditions
(12MPH and up).
I had to replace one hull this year due to UV cracking and the Full Lotus
floats need to be covered when not in use if exposed to sun light.
I made several hard water landings (engine seized) were the Kolb landing
gear legs and other float support tubes were severely bend without damage to
the Lotus floats and they kept the plane afloat.
The MKIII needs at least a 65 HP engine to carry the full load but it will
be slow climbing and loose 10-15 MPH speed
A 80 HP will do much better in climb but it will still take about the same
distance on the water for take-off and max speed will be about 75 MPH.
Fiberglass floats are a second choice due to more vibrations carry through
and cracking if not very carefull when beaching or docking but are more UV
resistant.
Aluminum floats are a disaster and are guaranteed to leak and you should
stay away from them
We had a new MKIII in this area (Sacramento Delta) with aluminum floats and
the guy had to constantly drain them whenever he landed or he could not take
off and this was with a Rotax 912.
He finally sold it to a guy around here last year but I have not seen it
flying since(I warned him about the floats before he purchased it).
This is it in a nutshell and if you need specific information on mounting
floats please contact me off list.
I do not have info on current pricing of any of these but the USUA magazine
always carries adds for them.
Good luck,
Frank
---- Original Message -----
From: "Lisa Turner" <LISATURNER(at)prodigy.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 5:55 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: Kolb Mark III on Floats?
>
> Hi Fellow Kolbers,
>
> Sent this a little while ago but it didn't reach the list. I'll try
again.
> Let me know if I'm not using the right address!
>
> Lisa
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lisa Turner <LISATURNER(at)prodigy.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 8:54 PM
> Subject: Kolb Mark III on Floats?
>
>
> > Hello Kolbers,
> >
> > In spite of work life interfering with my personal life, I am making
> > progress on my Mark III. I figure I am halfway done with 80% to go! A
> guy
> > down the street has some fiberglass floats for sale - about the size for
a
> > Kitfox (#1150 made by Stoddard Hamilton, amphibious).
> >
> > Has anyone bought floats or mounted floats, or researched floats for the
> > Mark III? If so, do you have any supplier info and or price info or
where
> I
> > could go to find this information?
> >
> > Appreciate any replies.
> > Thanks,
> > Lisa
> Boynton Beach Florida
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
06/01/2001 12:07:32 PM
I have ONE prop extension remaining, built for "C" box, 3" total extension,
75 mm Rotax bolt pattern, 2024-T3 aluminum, full centering hub features (1"
male and female features), still new, never bolted up to anything, price is
165 including shipping to U.S. This is the last one at this price (I am
sick of turning them out). First caller takes it......
Jim Gerken
507-753-2619
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Lay" <rv6builder(at)earthlink.net> |
Hello fellow Kolbers,
In March, I purchased a registered Firestar II with a 503 DCDI and the
large tundra tires. It is brand new and had only flown once or twice
before being inspected and registered. I brought it home and did many
fix it up items (such as cleaning the carbs, installing a BRS, etc)
including fitting the plane to an open trailer.
On Saturday May 27 I flew it for the first time. Surprisingly, my first
landing was a greaser. I have had a blast flying it again on Tuesday and
again today. I almost have all the trim tabs set for hands off flying.
It is a sweet flyer. But I have two problems that I need help on.
1st problem - From 5500 rpm up to WOT, the engine is strong and smooth.
As I pull the power back, a vibration starts that continues down thru
4000 rpm. I do not feel that this a propeller problem (IVO 3 blade)
after talking directly to someone at Ivoprop (BTW - did you know that
IVO wants the prop bolts torqued to 200 in-lb, not 150 in-lb as stated
in the instruction sheet I received with the plane). CHTs are very close
at 325 at WOT down to 250 at idle. EGTs are also very close, but the
front cylinder runs slightly cooler than the aft in the RPM band where I
am getting vibration. Any suggestions? If I have not include enough
info, please let me know what you need.
2nd problem - The right landing gear leg has an obvious toe-in problem.
I guess the builder did not do well at all drilling this leg. The left
gear looks very straight. Doing my normal post flight, I discovered that
the inside bearing on the right wheel bearing was destroyed and needs to
be replaced. I will also have to replace the aluminum tube spacer as
this was damaged also. I think that the misaligned gear placed excessive
stress on the bearing (no bad landings - honest :
} ) and caused the
failure. Here is my question. There is 16 =BD" between the end of the
gear leg socket and the welded steel axle fitting. The plans say that to
correct a poorly drilled gear leg is to reduce this distance by 3/8 to
1/2" and redrill the gear leg at the gear leg socket. Anybody done this?
Is the 16 1/2" crucial (the plans actually show this distance as 14
7/8")?
Thanks for your help. I have lurked on the list for a while, but read it
religiously.
Alan
Firestar II
South Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | vibration in midrange |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
> 1st problem - From 5500 rpm up to WOT, the engine is strong and
> smooth.
> As I pull the power back, a vibration starts that continues down
> thru 4000 rpm.
> Alan
> Firestar II
> South Florida
Alan, you may want to check the muffler bolts on the brackets going into
the head bolts and the bracket itself for signs of cracking. The main
thing to check is the two bolts going into the muffler underneath the
rubber donuts. If there is enough wear in the donut(s), it will make the
muffler shake and cause the vibration you are referring to. Take hold of
the back part of the muffler and try to move it up and down watching for
movement in the rubber donuts. This will be the test to let you know how
well attached it is.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: landing gear |
Ralph's suggesstion to check the muffler is good. You might also check the
throttle slides and make sure that both throttles are at the same point at
the same time in mid range.
There are several good ways to do this, but here's how I do it.
Take the aircleaner off. A helper is handy. Get them to push the throttle to
full. Then ease the throttle back until you can just see the upper throttle
bore
through the cutouts in the back of the slide. It is pretty easy to eyeball
them to make sure that they are both equal. Adjust the little cable
adjusters atop the carbs to get them identical. If they are unequal,
the temps will be off, and the engine will not be smooth.
This might not be the answer, but it is easy to check
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hello fellow Kolbers,
> But I have two problems that I need help on.
>
>1st problem - From 5500 rpm up to WOT, the engine is strong and smooth.
>As I pull the power back, a vibration starts that continues down thru
>4000 rpm. I do not feel that this a propeller problem (IVO 3 blade)
>after talking directly to someone at Ivoprop (BTW - did you know that
>IVO wants the prop bolts torqued to 200 in-lb, not 150 in-lb as stated
>in the instruction sheet I received with the plane). CHTs are very close
>at 325 at WOT down to 250 at idle. EGTs are also very close, but the
>front cylinder runs slightly cooler than the aft in the RPM band where I
>am getting vibration. Any suggestions? If I have not include enough
>info, please let me know what you need.
>Alan
>Firestar II
>South Florida
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
"Alberto J. Esquivel" ,
Bill Groth , Tom Nancy Lewis ,
Niel Wright ,
Mark A Young
> > Rules Of The Air
> >
> > Every takeoff is optional. Every landing is mandatory.
> >
> > If you push the stick forward, the houses get bigger. If you pull
the stick back, they get smaller. That is, unless you keep pulling the
stick all the way back, then they get bigger again.
> >
> > Flying isn't dangerous. Crashing is what's dangerous.
> >
> > It's always better to be down here wishing you were up there than
up
> > there wishing you were down here.
> >
> > The ONLY time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.
> >
> > The propeller is just a big fan in front of the plane used to keep
the pilot cool. When it stops, you can actually watch the pilot start
sweating.
> >
> > When in doubt, hold on to your altitude. No one has ever collided
with the sky.
> >
> > A 'good' landing is one from which you can walk away. A 'great'
landing is one after which they can use the plane again.
> >
> > Learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to
make all of them yourself.
> >
> > You know you've landed with the wheels up if it takes full power to
taxi to the ramp.
> >
> > The probability of survival is inversely proportional to the angle
of arrival. Large angle of arrival, small probability of survival and
vice versa.
> >
> > Never let an aircraft take you somewhere your brain didn't get to
five minutes earlier.
> >
> > Stay out of clouds. The silver lining everyone keeps talking about
might be another airplane going in the opposite direction. Reliable
sources also report that mountains have been known to hide out in
clouds.
> >
> > Always try to keep the number of landings you make equal to the
number of take offs you've made.
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3 269LJ, 582, 6 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G. Johannsson" <johann(at)caa.is> |
| Subject: | Re: landing gear |
Alan Lay wrote:
"1st problem - From 5500 rpm up to WOT, the engine is strong and smooth.
As I pull the power back, a vibration starts that continues down thru
4000 rpm. I do not feel that this a propeller problem (IVO 3 blade)
after talking directly to someone at Ivoprop (BTW - did you know that
IVO wants the prop bolts torqued to 200 in-lb, not 150 in-lb as stated
in the instruction sheet I received with the plane). CHTs are very close
at 325 at WOT down to 250 at idle. EGTs are also very close, but the
front cylinder runs slightly cooler than the aft in the RPM band where I
am getting vibration. Any suggestions? If I have not include enough
info, please let me know what you need."
Hi Alan and Kolb fans.
I have also experience this same problem since my first flight.
I have checked the three blade IVO for balance and weight, and it is
perfectly ligned up and the same weight distribution. I can not be the IVO.
The main problem for me is the ear drumming caused by this vibration.
I have tried various headsets, with earplugs and have come to the conclusion
that it is not my helmet.
I however suspect the exhaust system to cause this vibration.
It is isolated from the frame with rubber grommets, but I would not know
where
to start checking for vibration causes. I did use copper grease on the ball
joints, so
it could not be caused by dry joints.
In a resent Ultralight Flying magazine, I noticed an ad for a new joint
fastener for the
exhaust system for Rotax engines. Two plates with joining bolts and
dampened by
springs on the bolts. This could be a thing to try out. It is only around
$20.
I will order this part very soon.
I am sorry for not giving you more solving ideas for our VIBRATION problem,
and I know everyone on the list have heard me complain about this before.
If I find a solution to my problem, I will let you know.
"2nd problem - The right landing gear leg has an obvious toe-in problem.
I guess the builder did not do well at all drilling this leg. The left
gear looks very straight. Doing my normal post flight, I discovered that
the inside bearing on the right wheel bearing was destroyed and needs to
be replaced. I will also have to replace the aluminum tube spacer as
this was damaged also. I think that the misaligned gear placed excessive
stress on the bearing (no bad landings - honest :
} ) and caused the
failure. Here is my question. There is 16 =BD" between the end of the
gear leg socket and the welded steel axle fitting. The plans say that to
correct a poorly drilled gear leg is to reduce this distance by 3/8 to
1/2" and redrill the gear leg at the gear leg socket. Anybody done this?
Is the 16 1/2" crucial (the plans actually show this distance as 14
7/8")?"
The bearing that came with the kit are not worth risking your beautiful
plane on.
Try to replace the rims, and braking system as soon as possible.
The bearings on right wheel broke one day when I was in take-off run.
The rim locked and twisted on the axle. Ruined the brake cable and wheel
attachment steel, which bolts to the aluminum axle. Not a happy experience.
I am using the azusa rims and hydraulic brakes. Work much better. Am using
one brake lever on the stick.
Matco system is also good, but more expensive. You get what you pay for.
Hope you solve your problems soon.
Best regards,
Johann G.
Firestar II 503 DCDI Three blade IVO. Total time 55 hrs. and still
vibrating.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
OFFICIAL RULES OF THE AIR
1. Every takeoff is optional. Every landing is mandatory.
2. If you push the stick forward, the houses get bigger.
If you pull the stick back, they get smaller. That is,
unless you keep pulling the stick all the way back,
then they get bigger again.
3. Flying isn't dangerous. Crashing is what's dangerous.
4. It's always better to be down here wishing you were up
there than up there wishing you were down here.
5. The ONLY time you have too much fuel is when you're on
fire.
6. The propeller is just a big fan in front of the plane
used to keep the pilot cool. When it stops, you can
actually watch the pilot start sweating.
7. When in doubt, hold on to your altitude. No one has ever
collided with the sky.
8. A 'good' landing is one from which you can walk away. A
'great' landing is one after which they can use the
plane again.
9. Learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long
enough to make all of them yourself.
10. You know you've landed with the wheels up if it takes
full power to taxi to the ramp.
11. The probability of survival is inversely proportional
to the angle of arrival. Large angle of arrival, small
probability of survival and vice versa.
12. Never let an aircraft take you somewhere your brain
didn't get to five minutes earlier.
13. Stay out of clouds. The silver lining everyone keeps
talking about might be another airplane going in the
opposite direction. Reliable sources also report that
mountains have been known to hide out in clouds.
14. Always try to keep the number of landings you make equal
to the number of take offs you've made.
15. There are three simple rules for making a smooth landing.
Unfortunately no one knows what they are.
16. You start with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of
experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience
before you empty the bag of luck.
17. Helicopters can't fly; they're just so ugly the earth
repels them.
18. If all you can see out of the window is ground that's
going round and round and all you can hear is commotion
coming from the passenger compartment, things are not at
all as they should be.
19. In the ongoing battle between objects made of aluminum
going hundreds of miles per hour and the ground going
zero miles per hour, the ground has yet to lose.
20. Good judgment comes from experience. Unfortunately, the
experience usually comes from bad judgment.
21. It's always a good idea to keep the pointy end going
forward as much as possible.
22. Keep looking around. There's always something you've
missed.
23. Remember, gravity is not just a good idea. It's the law.
And it's not subject to appeal.
24. The three most useless things to a pilot are the altitude
above you, runway behind you, and a tenth of a second ago.
Gotta Fly...
From: John Richmond
Subject: Kolb-List: Rules
"Alberto J. Esquivel" ,
Bill Groth , Tom Nancy Lewis ,
Niel Wright ,
Mark A Young
> > Rules Of The Air
> >
> > Every takeoff is optional. Every landing is mandatory.
> >
> > If you push the stick forward, the houses get bigger. If you pull
the stick back, they get smaller. That is, unless you keep pulling the
stick all the way back, then they get bigger again.
> >
> > Flying isn't dangerous. Crashing is what's dangerous.
> >
> > It's always better to be down here wishing you were up there than
up
> > there wishing you were down here.
> >
> > The ONLY time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.
> >
> > The propeller is just a big fan in front of the plane used to keep
the pilot cool. When it stops, you can actually watch the pilot start
sweating.
> >
> > When in doubt, hold on to your altitude. No one has ever collided
with the sky.
> >
> > A 'good' landing is one from which you can walk away. A 'great'
landing is one after which they can use the plane again.
> >
> > Learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to
make all of them yourself.
> >
> > You know you've landed with the wheels up if it takes full power to
taxi to the ramp.
> >
> > The probability of survival is inversely proportional to the angle
of arrival. Large angle of arrival, small probability of survival and
vice versa.
> >
> > Never let an aircraft take you somewhere your brain didn't get to
five minutes earlier.
> >
> > Stay out of clouds. The silver lining everyone keeps talking about
might be another airplane going in the opposite direction. Reliable
sources also report that mountains have been known to hide out in
clouds.
> >
> > Always try to keep the number of landings you make equal to the
number of take offs you've made.
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3 269LJ, 582, 6 hrs
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Brake drum w/flange ??? |
I was looking in the archives for info about brakes for my FSII....John Jung had
wrote about the Azusa brake drums with a "Flange" on them were working good.
Does anybody know where I can find them ? I've looked in all my catalogs, with
no luck.
Hydraulic brakes are just too expensive right now, I just want to get the plane
in the air, I could change it later if I don't like the performance...........I
guess I'd go with the Azusa 5". If I can't find a brake drum with a flange
on it , I could probably weld one on it.
One of the problems that I saw looking thru the archives was the brake drum warping
from the heat in braking... I think a flange would help it keep its shape
alittle better. Gotta Fly...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy & Carolyn" <TommyandCarolyn(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake drum w/flange ??? |
Mike,
Try
Lockwood Aviation Supply, Inc.
1-800-LA-Rotax
2000-2001 Catalog page 205 P/N 2213
fits Azusa Aluminum 5 & 6" Tri-Star wheels
&/or
Northern Tool & Equipment Co.
1-800-533-5545
Catalog No: 159 Page 70 & 71
Go-Kart & Mini-Bike Parts
Good Luck,
Tommy
Subject: Kolb-List: Brake drum w/flange ???
>
>
>I was looking in the archives for info about brakes for my FSII....John
Jung had wrote about the Azusa brake drums with a "Flange" on them were
working good. Does anybody know where I can find them ? I've looked in all
my catalogs, with no luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene and La Vaughn <ecmouser(at)clandjop.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Incomplete data |
Please, Please, Please do not send me any more Kolb-List email.
To me it is SPAM and I have no interest in the Kolb-List.
>
>
> OFFICIAL RULES OF THE AIR
>
>
>1. Every takeoff is optional. Every landing is mandatory.
>
>2. If you push the stick forward, the houses get bigger.
>If you pull the stick back, they get smaller. That is,
>unless you keep pulling the stick all the way back,
>then they get bigger again.
>
>3. Flying isn't dangerous. Crashing is what's dangerous.
>
>4. It's always better to be down here wishing you were up
>there than up there wishing you were down here.
>
>5. The ONLY time you have too much fuel is when you're on
>fire.
>
>6. The propeller is just a big fan in front of the plane
>used to keep the pilot cool. When it stops, you can
>actually watch the pilot start sweating.
>
>7. When in doubt, hold on to your altitude. No one has ever
>collided with the sky.
>
>8. A 'good' landing is one from which you can walk away. A
>'great' landing is one after which they can use the
>plane again.
>
>9. Learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long
>enough to make all of them yourself.
>
>10. You know you've landed with the wheels up if it takes
>full power to taxi to the ramp.
>
>11. The probability of survival is inversely proportional
>to the angle of arrival. Large angle of arrival, small
>probability of survival and vice versa.
>
>12. Never let an aircraft take you somewhere your brain
>didn't get to five minutes earlier.
>
>13. Stay out of clouds. The silver lining everyone keeps
>talking about might be another airplane going in the
>opposite direction. Reliable sources also report that
>mountains have been known to hide out in clouds.
>
>14. Always try to keep the number of landings you make equal
>to the number of take offs you've made.
>
>15. There are three simple rules for making a smooth landing.
>Unfortunately no one knows what they are.
>
>16. You start with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of
>experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience
>before you empty the bag of luck.
>
>17. Helicopters can't fly; they're just so ugly the earth
>repels them.
>
>18. If all you can see out of the window is ground that's
>going round and round and all you can hear is commotion
>coming from the passenger compartment, things are not at
>all as they should be.
>
>19. In the ongoing battle between objects made of aluminum
>going hundreds of miles per hour and the ground going
>zero miles per hour, the ground has yet to lose.
>
>20. Good judgment comes from experience. Unfortunately, the
>experience usually comes from bad judgment.
>
>21. It's always a good idea to keep the pointy end going
>forward as much as possible.
>
>22. Keep looking around. There's always something you've
>missed.
>
>23. Remember, gravity is not just a good idea. It's the law.
>And it's not subject to appeal.
>
>24. The three most useless things to a pilot are the altitude
>above you, runway behind you, and a tenth of a second ago.
>
>
> Gotta Fly...
>
>
>From: John Richmond
>Subject: Kolb-List: Rules
>"Alberto J. Esquivel" ,
>Bill Groth , Tom Nancy Lewis ,
>Niel Wright ,
>Mark A Young
>
>
>> > Rules Of The Air
>> >
>> > Every takeoff is optional. Every landing is mandatory.
>> >
>> > If you push the stick forward, the houses get bigger. If you pull
>the stick back, they get smaller. That is, unless you keep pulling the
>stick all the way back, then they get bigger again.
>> >
>> > Flying isn't dangerous. Crashing is what's dangerous.
>> >
>> > It's always better to be down here wishing you were up there than
>up
>> > there wishing you were down here.
>> >
>> > The ONLY time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.
>> >
>> > The propeller is just a big fan in front of the plane used to keep
>the pilot cool. When it stops, you can actually watch the pilot start
>sweating.
>> >
>> > When in doubt, hold on to your altitude. No one has ever collided
>with the sky.
>> >
>> > A 'good' landing is one from which you can walk away. A 'great'
>landing is one after which they can use the plane again.
>> >
>> > Learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to
>make all of them yourself.
>> >
>> > You know you've landed with the wheels up if it takes full power to
>taxi to the ramp.
>> >
>> > The probability of survival is inversely proportional to the angle
>of arrival. Large angle of arrival, small probability of survival and
>vice versa.
>> >
>> > Never let an aircraft take you somewhere your brain didn't get to
>five minutes earlier.
>> >
>> > Stay out of clouds. The silver lining everyone keeps talking about
>might be another airplane going in the opposite direction. Reliable
>sources also report that mountains have been known to hide out in
>clouds.
>> >
>> > Always try to keep the number of landings you make equal to the
>number of take offs you've made.
>>
>
>=====
>John & Lynn Richmond :-)
>Palm Coast, Fl.
>Mk3 269LJ, 582, 6 hrs
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene and La Vaughn <ecmouser(at)clandjop.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake drum w/flange ??? |
Please remove my email address from your Kolb-List data base. I have not
interest in the list and do not know how you received my email address.
>
>
>I was looking in the archives for info about brakes for my FSII....John Jung
>had wrote about the Azusa brake drums with a "Flange" on them were working
>good. Does anybody know where I can find them ? I've looked in all my
>catalogs, with no luck.
>
>Hydraulic brakes are just too expensive right now, I just want to get the
>plane in the air, I could change it later if I don't like the
>performance...........I guess I'd go with the Azusa 5". If I can't find a
>brake drum with a flange on it , I could probably weld one on it.
>
>One of the problems that I saw looking thru the archives was the brake drum
>warping from the heat in braking... I think a flange would help it keep its
>shape alittle better. Gotta Fly...
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene and La Vaughn <ecmouser(at)clandjop.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake drum w/flange ??? |
Remove my name from the Kolb-List. I have no interest or need for your
products.
>
>
>Mike,
>
>Try
>
>Lockwood Aviation Supply, Inc.
>1-800-LA-Rotax
>2000-2001 Catalog page 205 P/N 2213
>fits Azusa Aluminum 5 & 6" Tri-Star wheels
>
>&/or
>
>Northern Tool & Equipment Co.
>1-800-533-5545
>Catalog No: 159 Page 70 & 71
>Go-Kart & Mini-Bike Parts
>
>Good Luck,
>Tommy
>
>Subject: Kolb-List: Brake drum w/flange ???
>
>
>>
>>
>>I was looking in the archives for info about brakes for my FSII....John
>Jung had wrote about the Azusa brake drums with a "Flange" on them were
>working good. Does anybody know where I can find them ? I've looked in all
>my catalogs, with no luck.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firestar KXP kit for sale. |
Dear Listers:
A good friend of mine has decided to give up and sell his firestar kit. We
purchased identical kits at the same time (March 1992), but he never really
got started building. The kit is an original Firestar KXP with the seven rib
wing and several added options. He has a BRS (needs a repack I'm sure by
now), brakes, powdercoated cage, covering kit, full enclosure kit, heavy duty
gear legs, 600x6 tires and a brand new 503 still in the box as it came from
Kolb. I put the eso storage oil in that engine myself, so it should still be
good. I hate to see him throw in the towel, but this might be a good chance
for someone to get one of the best flying kolbs ever at a decent price.
He is asking $7500. The kit is located in Snohomish, WA, about 45 min north
of Seattle, and only a few miles from the upcoming Arlington EAA fly-in. The
KXP had a different windshield configuration than the current firestar. You
can see a picture of mine here:
http://www.ashlandoregonairport.com/rghtarnd.htm
If you are interested, please send Doug an E-mail at:
mtfuji(at)gte.net
If you can't reach him please contact me:
Roger in Ashland Oregon
RPHanks(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "deckard" <deckard(at)sheltonbbs.com> |
| Subject: | Reelfoot lake TN fly in |
I am not a normal member of this list. I wanted to share information about
the upcoming fly in at Reelfoot Lake state park near Tiptonville TN. Dates
are 22-24 June. More information at the following link.
http://legacy.sheltonbbs.com/~deckard/Reelfoot.html
Jerry Deckard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
I experienced a low frequency growl while at cruise speed at about 5200 to
5400 rpm. I changed from a three blade to a two blade IVO and the growl
disappeared. One has to remember that even though there may be nothing
wrong with the engine and prop, they act as a vibration generator. If they
produce a vibration at the natural frequency of some structural component
and there is some play in the system that component is going to vibrate.
Later I found that the swivel joints on the rear of the wings were loose.
Currently, when I pre-flight I take a hold of the wing at the rear side and
close to the engine and try to shake the wing up and down. If you get any
clicking movement, you need to tighten up the joint. I have not gone back
to using the third blade on the prop because the plane seems to fly just
well with the two blade prop, and since I am using the same diameter prop
it seems to be quieter too.
Now at 52+ air hours, I have had to replace the left inboard aileron piano
hinge pin. It started getting loose about 30 hours ago. It got so bad
that I could hear it snapping during flight. I believe the source for this
was the engine vibration oscillating the aileron push rod tubes, and upper
pin and ball rod end bearing play. I have cut one side off the aileron
horn clevis and I have bolted the rod end bearings directly to the
remaining side of the clevis. This makes it impossible for the ball to
slide from side to side. If it can't move, it can't shake and it can't
wear. I will have to wait another 25 to 30 hours to see if this is going
to be an improvement.
Changing your prop from a three to a two blade prop is inexpensive, and if
it does not help, you can always go back to using the third blade.
Checking and removing play from the swivel joints can be a little time
consuming but can only be a plus.
The important thing is to keep checking every thing and to dampen out
vibration where ever you can. Those vibrations that you can not dampen
will cause joints to loosen so you must be watchful and peroidically check
for joint and hinge wear. This is part of what flying is all about.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Hello fellow Kolbers,
>
>1st problem - From 5500 rpm up to WOT, the engine is strong and smooth.
>As I pull the power back, a vibration starts that continues down thru
>4000 rpm. I do not feel that this a propeller problem (IVO 3 blade)
>after talking directly to someone at Ivoprop (BTW - did you know that
>IVO wants the prop bolts torqued to 200 in-lb, not 150 in-lb as stated
>in the instruction sheet I received with the plane). CHTs are very close
>at 325 at WOT down to 250 at idle. EGTs are also very close, but the
>front cylinder runs slightly cooler than the aft in the RPM band where I
>am getting vibration. Any suggestions? If I have not include enough
>info, please let me know what you need.
>
>Alan
>Firestar II
>South Florida
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: squeeze bulb by-pass |
Ron: The Kolb Factory demo airplanes I saw at Sun n' Fun had by-passes on
them... That was good enough for me...
Beauford
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bonnie Juneau" <bjuneau(at)megagate.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 12:13 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: squeeze bulb by-pass
>
> Hey Kolbers
> I need some opinions. Do I need a bi-pass line around my fuel line
> squeeze bulb or not? Has anyone had any problems with the check valves
> in the squeeze bulb sticking and stopping fuel flow to the carburaters?
> Thanks for your opinions.
>
> Ron Juneau
> Firestar II
> Fond de Culotte
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com |
Can an FSII with a 503 be modifided from the fan to a cowl induction?
Reason: after 25 hours I went thru a fan belt. 40 hours later I went thru
another one. I think the belt is too tight therefore causing the excessive
wear. When the belt broke the EGTs and CHTs remanded within the norms,
higher than normal but less than in the warning region. yellow. With this is
mind I thought maybe instead of working the fan I could go free air. Less
drag but HOTT FL weather,
Any one want to comment on this?
Thanks,
MEm
FSII 90hrs with a big smile:)
FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake drum w/flange ??? |
Who needs brakes????!!
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/3/01 10:39:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com writes:
> Can an FSII with a 503 be modifided from the fan to a cowl induction?
>
> Reason: after 25 hours I went thru a fan belt. 40 hours later I went thru
> another one. I think the belt is too tight therefore causing the excessive
> wear. When the belt broke the EGTs and CHTs remanded within the norms,
> higher than normal but less than in the warning region. yellow. With this
> is
> mind I thought maybe instead of working the fan I could go free air. Less
> drag but HOTT FL weather,
>
>
I have over 230 hrs on mine and haven't replaced my belt. Adjusted it with
about 10 hours on it. Without the fan you will certainly run hot on the
ground. Find out why you are wearing out belts and fix it.
Just my opinion.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake drum w/flange ??? |
posted by: MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com
>
> Who needs brakes????!!
Mematuzak and Gang:
Folks that know better.
I flew my Ultrastar with no brakes. Same for my Firestar,
for many hours. After I installed differential brakes on my
Firestar, I was hooked. It is much safer and convenient to
have brakes, especially differential brakes. They are very
handy for stopping before you run into something. Not all
taxi ways are level. Same for parking ramps. Ozark,
Alabama, has a downhill ramp to the gas pump. Before
brakes, I had to get out of the airplane and walk it down
the hill to the gas pump. Also very effective for assisting
the rudder and tailwheel in steering while taxiing. On my
MK III, which has a lot of weight on the tailwheel, it helps
prevent ground looping by assisting the rudder to keep the
airplane landing straight, most of the time. :-)
Although I have been there and done that, yep!, I need
brakes.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Reason: after 25 hours I went thru a fan belt. 40 hours later I went thru
> another one. I think the belt is too tight therefore causing the excessive
> wear.
> MEm
MEm and Gang:
Adjust the belt if it is too tight. If I remember
correctly, shims/washers are removed from one sided of the
pully half and placed on the other to adjust belt tension.
This will prevent the fan and pulley from eating the belt.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Miss P'fer Has Wings |
Hi Gang:
Yep, you heard it right. The MK III has wings. Bill
Griffin helped me load, haul, and install them this
afternoon. Sure felt good to get them to Gantt
International Airstrip and on the plane.
New fabric and paint on the repaired left wing. Wash and a
coat of Turtle Wax on the 8 year old fabric and paint on the
right wing. There's a difference (eight years and some
fading), but not enough to put all those hours into another
wing cover and paint job just for the sake of having both
wings identical. An old feller down the road told me the
plane would fly whether it had new paint on that right wing
or not.
Got some odds and ends to do before she flies, probably
before the week is over. Then I have to put about 50 hours
on the clock before I depart for Point Barrow, Alaska. That
is how much time I put on her before my departure last year.
Did the valve retainer update on the 912S, by myself. Took
me an afternoon to accomplish. Could have used another pair
of hands, for sure.
Miss P'fer looks good on her new landing gear legs, 2 inches
longer than the old ones. Should give me some improvement
in short field landings and takeoffs. Might also prevent
the tailwheel from hitting first, as it does occassionally
when I get the nose a little too high in the flare/stall to
landing.
This is really a difficult time to maintain a nice even
keel, insuring that everything that needs to be done is done
before I start flying. Have to be patient and get
everything checked off the punch list before we commit
aviation.
I am in the process of making up new tailwires and
hardware. I plan on eliminating all the cable thimbles and
replace with cable bushings and/or turnbuckles with forks on
both ends. This should prevent the rapid replacement of
cables and thimbles which wear rapidly against the single SS
tang edges. I have one set of tailwires that have 3 or 4
thimbles worn through until they broke in half where they
mate with the tangs. The down side is the tangs are going
to be 4130 and require priming and painting. However, 4130
is strong and I think my new wire system will be worth the
effort.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Well Kolbers, after two years and about 140 hours on my 503 DCDI, I had
my first unscheduled, unplanned landing with my Mark III.
I had been flying for about 2 hours when the engine began to sputter and
lose power. I was able to set it down in a recently mowed hay field with
no damage to me or to the plane.
Checked everything I could and after letting it rest for awhile, I
started up again and did my runup. All seemed ok so I took off. At about
2-300 ft., still climbing, it sputtered again and lost power. I did a
180 and landed again.
An A&P pilot who I had contacted by radio drove up and thought it might
be the fuel pump. I called a ultralight instructor I knew and he brought
another fuel pump and installed it and also found a small hole in a fuel
line.
Satisfied that all was ok, we tied the tail down and did a full runup
including 1 1/2 minutes at full power. Sounded good and all temps were
great (temps never went out of range on the previous two power losses
either.)
So once more I took off and again it lost power in the climb and again I
landed.
Not willing to tempt the fates again, we loaded the plane on a trailer
and took it to another Kolb owner's home where it is now.
Would like to get opinions on the problem and solution. As I said the
temps all were ok at all times and the mag checks were fine. Seems to be
a fuel problem. Help please!
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fan belt tension |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
> Can an FSII with a 503 be modifided from the fan to a cowl
> induction?
>
> Reason: after 25 hours I went thru a fan belt. 40 hours later I
> went thru
> another one. I think the belt is too tight therefore causing the
> excessive
> wear.
You need to adjust the belt for the proper tension. It should deflect a
half an inch when pressed from the middle next to the cowling. Any
tighter than that and it you most likely will see the problems you are
having. I have one that has been on there for 12 years and when I took it
off and inspected it, I thought it looked better than the new one I was
about to replace it with. I don't think you want to change your
fan-cooled engine into a free-air model in hot Florida.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar, w/447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
I recently made the switch--I bought a free air 447 CDI and transfered all
the cowl and fan to it. In my research I learned that evryone recommended
the fan cooled engine on a pusher type plane--even the Kolb plans do not
recommend a free air. I wonder how some of the other free air engines
will run--Verner, HKS etc on a pusher like the Kolb.
Dale Seitzer
-----Original Message-----
From: MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Vibration
Can an FSII with a 503 be modifided from the fan to a cowl induction?
Reason: after 25 hours I went thru a fan belt. 40 hours later I went thru
another one. I think the belt is too tight therefore causing the excessive
wear. When the belt broke the EGTs and CHTs remanded within the norms,
higher than normal but less than in the warning region. yellow. With this
is
mind I thought maybe instead of working the fan I could go free air. Less
drag but HOTT FL weather,
Any one want to comment on this?
Thanks,
MEm
FSII 90hrs with a big smile:)
FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | Brake drum w/flange ??? |
I don't have brakes but I imagine they would be useful on a hard surface
runway around lots of other planes. I have flown into hard surfaced
runways--one just needs to plan ahead well.
Dale Seitzer
-----Original Message-----
From: MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Brake drum w/flange ???
Who needs brakes????!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
>
>
> Well Kolbers, after two years and about 140 hours on my 503 DCDI, I
> had
> my first unscheduled, unplanned landing with my Mark III.
> I had been flying for about 2 hours when the engine began to sputter
> and
> lose power. I was able to set it down in a recently mowed hay field
> with
> no damage to me or to the plane.> Jim
> Mark III
> Charlotte, NC
Jim, did you replace the fuel filter? My 377 acted the same way and it
was the screen fuel filter that was clogged. Be careful though, because I
could fly for a half hour before the engine quit. Since then, I always
tell guys to use the largest paper element filter you can find (paper
filters will screen better than anything else). I also tell them NEVER
to use those small paper filters because they do not have the surface
area to filter premixed fuel. I get mine at a local auto parts store for
$4 and change it annually. No matter what the problem is, replace that
filter before you fly again.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar, w/447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
I have a kolb Firestar 377 with a Culver 66/28 wooden prop on it. I put a
ding in it and would like to replace it. Does anyone have a phone number or
address for this company?
Dwight Kottke
The Flying Farmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
I wonder how some of the other free air engines
> will run--Verner, HKS etc on a pusher like the Kolb.
> Dale Seitzer
Dale and Gang:
912, 912S, and 914 are also aircooled. Only the cyl heads
are liquid cooled. Cylinders are aircooled. When the 912
series engines were being developed, Rotax wanted a fully
aircooled engine. However, to keep the the heads aircooled
would have required enormous cooling fins, increasing
drastically the outside dimensions of the engine. To keep
things smaller, they went with liquid cooled heads.
Just thought I would throw that little bit of info in there
from Eric Tucker, Rotax engine guru.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake drum w/flange ??? |
I have flown into hard surfaced
> runways--one just needs to plan ahead well.
> Dale Seitzer
Dale and Gang:
You are correct. But how are you gonna plan for the other
guy? The one that walks, drives, taxies in front of your
moving UL. With liability the way it is today, I don't
think I would want to hit any airplane at an airport while
in command of an aircraft without brakes, especially if it
had no liability insurance.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
Since then, I always
> tell guys to use the largest paper element filter you can find (paper
> filters will screen better than anything else).
> Ralph Burlingame
Ralph and Gang:
The large paper element filters probably do filter well.
However, unless a lot has changed over the years (and it may
have since I last used paper element fuel filters),
water/moisture in the fuel system would eventually clog the
paper filters and not allow fuel to pass. Early on, 1984 or
85, I went to the nylon screen replaceable fuel filter after
experiencing several engine failures attributed to paper
filters. I am still using the same nylon element filter
today (not the same element) on the 912S. I used it on the
Ultrastar, Firestar, MK III with 912 and now the 912S. It
will handle a lot of debris before it finally can not pass
enough fuel to operate the 912. Found this out through
experience in Texas, 1998. Pilot error for not checking
fuel after filling up from a mobile fuel tank at a flyin.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
In a message dated 6/4/01 5:13:34 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
> Would like to get opinions on the problem and solution. As I said the
> temps all were ok at all times and the mag checks were fine. Seems to be
>
If I was you I would want to rule out the possibility of seizure. It
sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but the consequences of a misdiagnosis
could be horrible. Pull that exhaust manifold and take a look.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
Jim,
I would go over the complete fuel system, including disassembling and
cleaning both carbs. One carb could have some dirt in it. Also check the
pulse line. It should not be fuel line and it should be TIGHT. Then, I would
run it for at least 4 minutes "full power" on the ground, for a test. Good
luck.
John Jung
Jim Minewiser wrote:
>
> Well Kolbers, after two years and about 140 hours on my 503 DCDI, I had
> my first unscheduled, unplanned landing with my Mark III.
snip.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | Brake drum w/flange ??? |
I admit I rarely fly at a busy hard surface airport. When other planes
are around I just go extremely slow. They probably dont like it when I go
so slow. I have on one occasion taxied back on the grass off the paved
taxi way so I would stay out of the way. I often push the plane with
engine off even on grass runways. I have the liability insurance through
USUA but I understand it will not be offered again.
Dale Seitzer
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hauck
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Brake drum w/flange ???
I have flown into hard surfaced
> runways--one just needs to plan ahead well.
> Dale Seitzer
Dale and Gang:
You are correct. But how are you gonna plan for the other
guy? The one that walks, drives, taxies in front of your
moving UL. With liability the way it is today, I don't
think I would want to hit any airplane at an airport while
in command of an aircraft without brakes, especially if it
had no liability insurance.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Ultrastar escapades |
After reading comments about who needs brakes I need to confess that I
had a similar opinion of brakes on my ultrastar, that is," I don't need
no stinking brakes"............Until last week when I landed long
(purposely....read stupid) on a friends strip and didn't factor in the
down slope and short grass....A friend managed to grab the tail on my
way to the embankment( steep) that ended in the creek. I had killed the
engine as I taxied by yelling "grab it". Sure saved me a lot of
trouble....Since then I put some Tundra tires on it and keep them soft
and now I can turn around by hanging out the right side and hold the top
of the tire. Am now researching brakes. I am interested in mechanical
type..Azusa ?.....Comments?......I,too, am getting a vibration in a
surging noise between 5000 to 6000 rpm and suspect carburetion or engine
mounts. I have considered the prop in close proximity with tail boom and
may try washering the engine mount to see what results. I have the
airspeed at cruise down to 60mph at 4800 rpm on the Cayuna UL202 after
adjusting the new 2 blade Warp drive to 6250 rpm full power static. Cht
is 350 and EGT is 1125 at cruise and gets to 1250 at full power takeoff
so I don't go there much. I installed new aluminum gaskets under the
cylinders and it helped some and I have the flow thru head. If I can get
this Cayuna happy I think this machine is a real winner....been real
happy with performance....Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Alexander <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
"Kottke, Dwight" wrote:
>
>
> I have a kolb Firestar 377 with a Culver 66/28 wooden prop on it. I put a
> ding in it and would like to replace it. Does anyone have a phone number or
> address for this company?
>
> Dwight Kottke
> The Flying Farmer
>
Dwight:
If the "ding" is not too large, the baking soda/super glue
repair method works great.
Following is a copy of the message that Richard Pike had
posted that was in the archives.
He included the necessary cautions associated with the
process.
George Alexander
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
---------------------------------
Message: #17698
Date: Sep 30, 2000
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: wood prop repair,
If it's just a small ding, no structural problem, fill the
ding with baking
soda or microballoons, and drip the super glue on it. Keep
the fumes out of
your eyes, and when it gets done cooking, sand it smooth,
shoot a coat of
clear whatever over the top of it, check the balance, go
fly. Don't hit the
runway lights; it "breaks" them.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, Tn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
> Ralph and Gang:
>
> The large paper element filters probably do filter well.
> However, unless a lot has changed over the years (and it may
> have since I last used paper element fuel filters),
> water/moisture in the fuel system would eventually clog the
> paper filters and not allow fuel to pass.
> john h
Hi John and others,
Yes, the paper fuel filters will not pass water and can clog easier, but
with the larger element it's the best of both worlds between a screen and
paper. I think if I were doing a lot of cross country flying the way you
do, the screen type is the way to go since there is no "history" of that
fuel in the tank and if there were presence of water, the screen will
pass it more readily. I don't take the long cross country flights that
you do, and buy my fuel from the same gas station which has a "history"
of good fuel, therefore being able to use a filter with a large paper
element.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar, w/447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Dave Miller Culvers owner, is not producing props at this time. He is
seeking a buyer for the buisness.
If you need to replace the prop, check with Tennessee props, or Ritz
props.
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Kolb-List message posted by: "Kottke, Dwight"
I wrote earlier about a very heavy nose on my Firestar. Several people
responded with some excellent advise. I tried the easiest first. I loosened
the ropes on the top of my seat which allowed me to sit about 6" further
back. My plane now flies much better, but I have created another problem
which I hope someone has a cure for. Before I sat with my butt forward of
the lower cross tube, now I'm right on top of it. Very uncomfortable! Any
suggestions? >>
Disconnect the seat from the cross bar....mine has been a hammock since 1992
and in spite of my previous back surgery, I have nothing but praise for the
outcome!
GeoR38
Driver of "by George" the Firestar....from Akron OHIO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
While your in there,check to make sure the "Main Jet" isn't backing out . Did
it sound alittle rich? I had this problem once with my 582 on my powered parachute.....Good
Luck. Gotta Fly...
Jim,
I would go over the complete fuel system, including disassembling and
cleaning both carbs. One carb could have some dirt in it. Also check the pulse
line. It should not be fuel line, and it should be TIGHT !
John Jung
Jim Minewiser wrote:
>
> Well Kolbers, after two years and about 140 hours on my 503 DCDI, I had
> my first unscheduled, unplanned landing with my Mark III.
snip.....
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
>
>
>
> I have a kolb Firestar 377 with a Culver 66/28 wooden prop on it. I
> put a
> ding in it and would like to replace it. Does anyone have a phone
> number or
> address for this company?
>
> Dwight Kottke
> The Flying Farmer
I think Culver is out of business, but you can also use 5-minute epoxy
that works great if the ding isn't too big. I have used it on my old
Culver prop.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar, w/447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
I don't take the long cross country flights that
> you do, and buy my fuel from the same gas station which has a "history"
> of good fuel, therefore being able to use a filter with a large paper
> element.
>
> Ralph Burlingame
Hi Ralph and Gang:
Learned, or am still trying to learn, to never take anything
for granted in aviation. :-)
You are using a Mr. Funnel, or something that will let you
know when moisture is present in your fuel?
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/4/01 9:06:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dale(at)gmada.com
writes:
> . I wonder how some of the other free air engines
> will run--Verner, HKS etc on a pusher like the Kolb.
> Dale Seitzer
>
>
Dale, I believe the HKS has oil cooling to the heads; don't know about the
Verner.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Culver Prop Repair |
Dwighrt,
Dings are no problem! Fill the dent with baking powder. Then drip
super glue into the powder until it is full. It will get hot & fume then
get hard as the wood. Sand, & go on your merry way! I've repaired large
dents the size of a quarter & it flew for years. The stuff is part of my
emergency kit & I would never go anywhere with a wood prop without it! Once
the leading edge got knocked off for about 3" X 1/4". I used tape to hold
the powder & In a few minutes I had a new leading edge! The stuff is darn
near miraculous. ....Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com>
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 8:21 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Culver Prop
>
>
> I have a kolb Firestar 377 with a Culver 66/28 wooden prop on it. I put a
> ding in it and would like to replace it. Does anyone have a phone number
or
> address for this company?
>
> Dwight Kottke
> The Flying Farmer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
>> Hi Ralph and Gang:
>
> Learned, or am still trying to learn, to never take anything
> for granted in aviation. :-)
>
> You are using a Mr. Funnel, or something that will let you
> know when moisture is present in your fuel?
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
Hi John,
In the early days of flying I have had some water in my fuel noticed by
the white phase separation at the bottom of the tank. As you know, this
is the condition where water in the fuel will separate and turns the fuel
a white color. This happens only with oxygenated fuel (ethanol) and this
is the type of fuel I used for many years until I tried the ethanol-free
gas. I've always used a large paper element filter during this period and
had no problems associated with fuel getting through to the engine. I do
not use a Mr Funnel because in recent years the station I buy my fuel
from has a good "history" of offering quality fuel. I attribute the
longevity of my engine to the use of the large paper filters to filter
out the fine particles of grit and contaminants that will wear the engine
over time. A screen filter will only filter out the large particles but
the very fine ones will get though.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar, w/447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Hi Gang,
I just finnished cutting holes for my instruments. They turned
out good, but as I got ready to install the airspeed I saw on the directions
that I am not to install it to the airframe because the vibration will
shorten its life. I thought I was following Kolbs instructions. They show
instruments installed to the panel of the firefly on there prints. Did I miss
something, Whats up? Is there a better way?
Ed Diebel
Houston
Building Firefly ( farther along than when I started)
Got airline tickets to Oshkosh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barbara Flynn" <skygods(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Kolbers,
As the U.S. dealer/distributor of the Verner Motor and a pilot that has
flown 40 hours in a Kolb Mark III equipped with a Verner 1400 engine, in
Florida. I find the engine runs within recommended temperatures as long
as the oil cooler and oil reservior are placed properly in relationship
to the engine block. It has been my experience that one cylinder runs
warmer than the other because of their location to the cooling fan
(prop). By installing cowlings, these temperatures even out, but never
are the temperatures in normal use higher than recommended.
If anyone should have any questions regarding the Verner motor. Please
feel free to drop us an e-mail or give us a call at (407) 894-5715.
Steve Flynn
Central Florida Flyers, Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cim & Tindy" <townsend(at)webound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine problems |
I saw this happen once also,
The float bowls had a little water in
them that would not go through the jet.
Seems it just took up space.
Hope this helps.
Our Best
Tim & Cindy Townsend
----- Original Message -----
From: John Jung
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Engine problems
Jim,
I would go over the complete fuel system, including disassembling and
cleaning both carbs. One carb could have some dirt in it. Also check
the
pulse line. It should not be fuel line and it should be TIGHT. Then,
I would
run it for at least 4 minutes "full power" on the ground, for a test.
Good
luck.
John Jung
Jim Minewiser wrote:
>
> Well Kolbers, after two years and about 140 hours on my 503 DCDI, I
had
> my first unscheduled, unplanned landing with my Mark III.
snip.....
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Ed,
Don't worry. Kolbs have very little vibration in nose cone.
John Jung
DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hi Gang,
> I just finnished cutting holes for my instruments. They turned
> out good, but as I got ready to install the airspeed I saw on the directions
> that I am not to install it to the airframe because the vibration will
> shorten its life. I thought I was following Kolbs instructions. They show
> instruments installed to the panel of the firefly on there prints. Did I miss
> something, Whats up? Is there a better way?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Ed and John,
All of the instruments have survived vibration in the nose cone except
some cheap compasses that I had. The ASI and altimeter are doing fine
after 650 hours. The egt-tach was fine until I had to install a new one
when I got the 447 engine with the Ducati ignition. None of them are
shock mounted.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Verner Motor |
Cost?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Verner Motor |
MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com wrote:
> Cost?
Maintenance?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com |
Even the best of the best get challenged. Anyone see Dick Moorehead do the
wing tip to the ground at SUN N FUN?
Makes me feel even better about KOLBS, They take a lickin and keep on flying,
not only with us amateurs but also the pros.
MEm
PS I've seen it in black and white. Or now a days digital
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing stand!! |
> Even the best of the best get challenged. Anyone see Dick Moorehead do the
> wing tip to the ground at SUN N FUN?
> MEm
MEm and Gang:
Don't know Dick Moorehead, but clue us in on what you are
talking about.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Wing stand!! |
Who's the KOLB driver with the rep. of being first up and last down at Fly
ins. Flys the FSII, has a beard and flys go so sweet? Dick -----?
MEm
FSII
Palm Coast, FL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Brocious" <brocious(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for a Mark III |
Folks,
If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all. I've been ready to plop down
the green on two, count'm, two Mark IIIs only to have them snatched from my
grasp by quink-e-dinks. So ...
Anybody know a good used Mark III for sale?
Best regards to all Kolb drivers,
Bob Brocious
Tenacity Farm
Carrollton, Ky
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing stand!! |
That would be dick Rayhill
----- Original Message -----
From: <MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Wing stand!!
>
> Who's the KOLB driver with the rep. of being first up and last down at Fly
> ins. Flys the FSII, has a beard and flys go so sweet? Dick -----?
>
> MEm
> FSII
> Palm Coast, FL.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing stand!! |
> Who's the KOLB driver with the rep. of being first up and last down at Fly
> ins. Flys the FSII, has a beard and flys go so sweet? Dick -----?
>
> MEm
MEm and Gang:
Oh, that's Dirty Dick Rahill. My old flying buddy from way
back. Dick is 67 or 68 years old. Flies the same way at
home in PA. Keeps a Cub and another Piper at Homer Kolbs
place. He takes off in the morning and doesn't come back
until dark. He took me flying in the Cub one afternoon in
1963. We must have landed in or drug 25 grass strips in the
local area around Homer's airstrip.
Now what did Dick do? Did you say he drug a wing tip or
pranged a wing?
Dick does a great job with the Firestar. He keeps it right
on the stall shooting approaches at Sun and Fun, and OSH.
However, there is a price to pay for that type flying,
especially in the environment that we fly in at both
places. Usually it is very windy, normally a 90 deg cross
wind, combined with a lot of crappy air stirred up by a lot
of props and wings. Impossible to predict what the wind is
gonna do all the time. Sometimes he runs out of air and
bends a landing gear.
I flew into OSH in my Firestar in 1989. I was flying in the
pattern with Dick, who was flying the factory Firestar that
was the 1985 UL Grand Champion. The airstrip at that time
required a real hard 90 deg turn on short short final and
touch down. I was having a ball kicking my Firestar around
and stalling it in. Dick was flying behind me. I landed
and was turning around when Dick stalled his Firestar, but
he was 10 to 20 feet in the air when it stalled. He rolled
it up in a ball. Homer is now in the process of rebuilding
that airplane.
While I am running my mouth I might as well share this with
you all. Everything is done on my MK III except replacing
the center section. That is a complicated process because
of the way I configured the parachute in it with the
displaced low enough not to protrude through the top of the
"hair cell" plastic cover. It will probably take a good
part of the day to accomplish that.
The other day I cranked the engine over with the starter and
got 50 psi oil pressure. Will probably crank the engine for
the first time since 1 July 2000, tomorrow.
I am expecting my carb heat from England any time now. It
was shipped yesterday (Cost $32.00 shipping). Must be
sending it via Concorde. :-) I actually need to wait to
replace the center section until the carb heat system is
installed so I can run some extra water hose forward behind
my head to install the on/off valve. The trike guys run the
carb heat all the time. That have so much power with the
912 they can not realize its full potential. So any slight
drop in power for them is at no cost in performance. I want
all the power I can get, so I will not be using carb heat
except during landings or reduced power operations.
The old MK III looks good sitting in the hanger with her new
wing. The old wing which I washed and waxed blends right in
with the new one. The nose pod was refinished and it blends
in with the rest of the aircraft. I am satisfied.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | flying monument valley |
| From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
06/07/2001 07:08:00 PM
Two years ago, I got off my ass and followed up on a dream of flying solo
in an ultralight. Two weeks ago I accomplished my second goal of a
low-altitude cruise along the beach by flying from my home airport at Santa
Ynez, CA out to the Pismo Beach recreational area. What a kick. Was
flying with a big grin on my face while watching numerous folks wave at me
from below.
Well, the next dream is to trailer up the plane and do a little camping and
a lot of flying out in the desert. Specifically, I have my heart set on
Monument Valley in Arizona, the set for many western movies and lots of
calendar photos.
I'll bet one or two of you out there have flown in the area before or know
someone who has. Im looking for a few tips on where to fly out of,, any
especially good sights to see, and of course anything to watch out for so I
can start planning. I believe the valley is either a national monument
and/or part of an Indian reservation so Im assuming altitude restrictions
are in place.
Thanks for any tips in advance.
Now I gotta figure how to approach this with the spousal unit...
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
Santa Barbara, California 93117
Tel: 805-964-6010
fax: 805-964 0259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing stand!! |
He took me flying in the Cub one afternoon in
> 1963.
Hi Gang:
Sorry about that. The above should have read 1993. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/07/01 |
Anyone have thoughts on putting wax over aerothane paint ? I've asked at
fabric covering workshops, and booths that sell stits covering, and I'm
always told not to put wax. They say the shine is all the way through the
paint, and all you need to do is wash your plane. I,m thinking the plane may
be easier to keep clean and look a little nicer with a coat of wax on her.
Anyone know of any pros or cons in regards to this ? Thanks
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
528py mk3 near Albany N.Y.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing stand!! |
John,
This is very well stated.
John Jung
John Hauck wrote:
snip......
> Dick does a great job with the Firestar. He keeps it right
> on the stall shooting approaches at Sun and Fun, and OSH.
> However, there is a price to pay for that type flying,
> especially in the environment that we fly in at both
> places.
snip.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/07/01 |
>
>Anyone have thoughts on putting wax over aerothane paint ? I've asked at
>fabric covering workshops, and booths that sell stits covering, and I'm
>always told not to put wax. They say the shine is all the way through the
>paint, and all you need to do is wash your plane. I,m thinking the plane
may
>be easier to keep clean and look a little nicer with a coat of wax on her.
>Anyone know of any pros or cons in regards to this ? Thanks
>
> Fly Safe
> Bob Griffin
I would test it on one of the tailfeathers for a few weeks first.
Think you will find that it will tend to turn white after a while.
Once you wax it the first time, you will be waxing it a lot more
often than you want to.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/07/01 |
> Anyone have thoughts on putting wax over aerothane paint ? I've asked at
> fabric covering workshops, and booths that sell stits covering, and I'm
> always told not to put wax.
> Bob Griffin
Morning Bob and Gang:
UV, crud in the air and on the ground, acid rain, etc., all
take their toll on aerothane paint. I washed and waxed my
old wing to try and make it look more like the new one. It
put some of the color and shine back in it.
Because the tail section of my Kolbs take such a beating
from the pusher prop, dirt, engine exhaust, two stroke oil,
etc., I always used wax on it to help clean and protect.
I was always told that it was not necessary to wax aerothane
because of its durability and gloss. No mention of waxing
aerothane in the Polyfiber Manual. They recommend waxing
for Polytone.
We have experimented and discovered that aged aerothane can
be compounded and waxed.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dick Winging it |
Yes. He is a great Kolb driver!! I think the best part of this pict. is
seeing that the Kolb is tough. It can give us newbees a good level of
tolerance to learn on it and it continues ticking like the old Timex.
MEm
FSII
100hrs new
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dick Winging it |
Low and slow is a killer no matter how tough the plane is. This type of
behavior is what will give all of us a bad reputation, an excuse for FBOs
to keep ultra lights off their airports and invite federal reguation. We
cannot afford this kind of "greatness" and "newbees" should not emulate
this behavior.
The great Kolb and other drivers are those that have never bent a landing
gear, dinked a wing or stalled it in from 20 plus feet. Some have a bit of
bad luck, but most learn from their mistakes and do not repeat the same
mistake. I hope you are one of these.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Yes. He is a great Kolb driver!! I think the best part of this pict. is
>seeing that the Kolb is tough. It can give us newbees a good level of
>tolerance to learn on it and it continues ticking like the old Timex.
>
>MEm
>FSII
>100hrs new
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: flying monument valley |
>
>I know of a gent out there that has a special flying service. He flies t>o places
like Monument Valley to commit the cremation ashes of folks look>ing for
a good place to rest.
One of my best aviator bud's used to do that out in California. He had just
gotten his commercial license and a local funeral home would get him to
charter a Piper something and the funeral director would sit in the right
seat, and the near relatives would sit in back. The funeral director would
have the ashes in an envelope, and when they got out over the ocean, he
would stick the envelope out the window, or crack the door or something,
(not too familiar with Pipers) and empty the ashes out. One day, just as
the ashes were about to be released, the wind caught the envelope, and
filled the inside of the airplane with powdered ash, most of it landing on
the bereaved couple in back.
Ed said it was a very quiet, strained flight back to the airport...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
(It was not Kolb, but too good not to share...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Y'all come!
YeeeeeHaaaa!
http://www.georgiasportflyers.com/pages/events.htm#2001%20Georgia%20Sport%20
Flyers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowling sheet metal screws.message of Fri, 8 Jun 2001 |
How did you guys handle those screws?
>
> Hillbilly Mike
Good Morning Mike and Gang:
I was almost ready to send a test msg to the List to see if
it was operational. I had not received any traffic for a
couple days.
Sheet metal screws in the cooling tin was never a good idea,
in my opinion. When the fell out, I replaced them.
Back in the 80's, when I was putting a lot of hours on the
old 447's, I had problems with screws falling out and sheet
metal fatigue cracking. It did not take too many hours for
the cowlings to begin falling apart. I chased stress cracks
and stop drilled them. Eventually, I would have to scrounge
up new sheet metal.
I don't know what the answer is for mechanically
securing/safetying the sheet metal screws.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | North Slope, Alaska |
Morning Gang:
Forgive me for taking your band width, but I found an
interesting web site with lots of pics about the North Slope
of Alaska and the villages that make it up. The North Slope
Borough is equivilent to counties in the lower 48. It is
the largest borough (county) in the US.
http://www.ptialaska.net/~floyd/index.html#top
I will have a chance to fly to most of these villages if the
weather, the aircraft, and I cooperate. I am looking
forward to experiencing new people and places in a land very
far away and different from what I am accustomed to.
The MK III is ready to fly tomorrow, weather permitting. I
have only to replace the center section, which is a
complicated and time consuming task on my particular
airplane. Will need a very thorough inspection/preflight
prior to committing aviation. Yesterday I cranked the 912S
for the first time since 1 July 2000. I put 5 gal of 93
octane Chevron in a bone dry tank, flipped the master
switch, fuel pump, let the carbs fill, pulled on the
enricher, hit the starter and she fired right up. Ran rough
for a minute or two until she got cleared out. Then ran
like a clock. After warmup, pulled the throttle to idle,
she ticked along at exactly 1,400 rpm. Did some taxi test,
a couple stops from aprx 40 mph to run in the new brakes,
and finally a full throttle static test that produced 5,300
rpm. I think I dialed the Warp Drive right on the money the
first time around.
What a good feeling going full throttle for a few seconds,
feeling the aircraft get light and want to fly. Was hard
pulling the throttle closed, but had to do it. We were
doing the taxi tests with no gap seal. Kolbs definitely do
not like to fly without their gap seals.
BTW: The full throttle static tests were done with brakes
only, not tied down. The new brakes would not hold the
aircraft every time at WOT, but would not normally break
loose until 5,000 or higher. Several times we got them to
hold at WOT, 5,300 rpm. These are the upgraded MATCO wheels
and brakes with 1,100+ static load capacity, wheels have
3/4" axles and tapered roller bearings. I had to pay a 3 lb
per wheel penalty to upgrade but I accept that for the
improved performance.
When I pulled the old gold colored MATCO wheels off Miss
P'fer after my landing at Munco Lake, two of the four sets
of 5/8" ball bearings had locked up and the inner races were
turning on the axles. The other two sets of bearings were a
short time away from failure. Those UL wheels and brakes
were rated at 600+ lbs static.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cowling sheet metal screws. message of Fri, 8 Jun 2001 |
23:...
In a message dated 6/9/01 8:31:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dixieshack(at)webtv.net writes:
> All the stories I've read about parts coming off due to vibes, wrenches
> and parts left around the engine, muffler springs...all going through
> the prop makes me look real hard at those sheet metal screws and pal
> nuts holding the cooling tin on my 503. Kinda hard to safety wire...is
> there enough thread area to loctite?
> Sometimes a fella creates more problems by trying to eliminate
> possibilities. How did you guys handle those screws?
>
>
I had one go thru my prop. I removed them all, cleaned the screws & holes
with alcohol, put Automotive "Goop" on the threads & washer & screwed 'em
back in.
Been OK for about 100 hours.
When I ever remove the cooling shroud, I will replace the sheet metal screws &
pal nuts with machine screws & the correct pal nut & use "Locktite'.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Brake drum bolt pattern |
I ordered the 5" Azusa brake assy. and the bolt pattern on the brake drum is smaller
than the wheel.
Is there some kinda adapter for it or do I have to re-drill the drums ?
And while I'm here what kind of set-up are you guys running on those 503's , 1
carb. or 2 ?
Mike in Mn. FSII , still building , but it's lookin like an airplane now...
Gotta Fly...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake drum bolt pattern |
Mike,
Most 503's are run with two carbs, but a Firestar II doesn't really need the second
one. I have run my
Firestar II both ways and I sure doubt that the second carb gives 6 more horsepower.
It seems to give
just enough extra horsepower to carry a battery and starter.
John Jung
Mike Pierzina wrote:
snip.....
> And while I'm here what kind of set-up are you guys running on those 503's ,
1 carb. or 2 ?
snip............
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Group,
I want to add a gas gage to my Firestar II. I have a Grand Rapids EIS
with the
AUX unused. Has anyone used the EIS for gas and if so, with what type of sender?
How well does it work?
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Thanks to everyone who responded to my questions regarding the engine
problems. Today I took out both fuel tanks and cleaned them, replaced
all the gas lines, primer lines, and pulse line, replaced the fuel
filter, and did away with the squeeze bulb, and installed a new fuel
pump.
Still have a few thing to do before I can take it up again. I am going
to trailer my plane to a airport with a loooong runway for my first
flight after I finish these items.
BTW, I always use Mr. Funnel when refueling.
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/9/01 6:33:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jrjung(at)execpc.com
writes:
> I want to add a gas gage to my Firestar II. I have a Grand Rapids EIS
> with the
> AUX unused. Has anyone used the EIS for gas and if so, with what type of
> sender?
> How well does it work?
>
> John Jung
>
>
>
Yes, I have first-hand knowledge of this as we just installed on in my friend
Chuck's FS I.
Call Grand Rapids Tech. [616]583-8000 and order their 12" long probe made by
Princeton Electronics [$95]. It comes with instructions on how to install
in the tank [just fits thru a grommet in a 1/2" hole] and how to connect to
the EIS & program.
The hardest part of the job is you need to get 12Volts DC [switched] to the
vicinity of the top of the tank in which you want to install the sender. You
also need to get the green wire from the EIS [if it has 2 plugs on the back]
there also.
We programmed Chuck's EIS to show % of how much gas is remaining, ie. 60%=6
gallons. Absolutely accurate.
You also need to have an easy way to siphon gas from the tank.
Hint: Make a jumper cable, 3 conductor, about 6 feet long & connect the fuel
sender to the EIS with the tank sitting on the floor- much easier to siphon
fuel & calibrate. Use Quick-disconnects at the tank for easy removal.
As I recall, your rear tank empties before the front one. With that set-up,
I don't know how you will be able to guage exactly how you will tell how much
fuel you have remaining; suggest you ask Gregg when you order your probe.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Group, just out of curiosity, does anyone know approx.
how many
> lasers were sold/built/flown?
Bob and Gang:
Best of my knowledge, built and flew the original
prototype. Second prototype components built, covered, and
I flew my MK III up to Homer's and painted the second one.
Only the first flew and now none exist. None were kitted
and none sold.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
At the air rally on Sat., I heard of a new miracle(!) engine cleaning
technique. I searched the archives and found nothing similar. The gentleman
runs a can of Amsoil engine cleaner directly into the carb (447) at various
rpm's every 25 hours then new plugs. His first diassembly decarb at 150
hours was super clean.
Anyone care to comment?
Kip Laurie
Firestar II
75 hours, Pennzoil, thinking of decarb options
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DataBuilder" <DataBuilder(at)rcsis.com> |
| Subject: | Brake drum bolt pattern |
I believe the Asuza 5" wheel is for the 8" rim. You need the 4 1/2" brake
for the 6" wheel. Here is Asuza's web address:
http://www.azusaeng.com/catalog/catalog.html
Brian Hale
Sacramento, CA
Firestar I
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Pierzina
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2001 11:58 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Brake drum bolt pattern
I ordered the 5" Azusa brake assy. and the bolt pattern on the brake drum
is smaller than the wheel.
Is there some kinda adapter for it or do I have to re-drill the drums ?
And while I'm here what kind of set-up are you guys running on those 503's
, 1 carb. or 2 ?
Mike in Mn. FSII , still building , but it's lookin like an airplane
now... Gotta Fly...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | John Hauck's Big Trip |
Kolbers and all ULers,
John is only two weeks away from his ETD to Pt. Barrow Alaska, and
return. I have no idea who, and in what manner, have sent some token of
support to John. As what I would call The Chief Kolb Pilot, he
represents us all in this tough endevour. If you personally can't pour a
gallon of gas into his tanks, how about dropping the equivalent into an
envelope to :
John Hauck
255 Coosa Ave.
Titus AL 36080
You've all heard the saying, "Walk a mile in his shoes"? Well, how about
riding along in his fuel tank? Equates to about half a six pack, or if
you're still on the weed, a pack of cancer igniter sticks.
C'mon, show John how Kolbers support each other.
Bob N.
pee ess I'll contribute a buck from each sale of Flying Tales--see
below.
http://members.nbci.com/ronoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Herren" <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: John Hauck's Big Trip |
If everyone that John's advice has helped sent just a little it would be a
lot less strain on him. His advice helped me - my check is in the mail.
Bill in Lousyana
>From: "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com, fly-ul(at)yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: John Hauck's Big Trip
>Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 15:23:46 -0400
>
>
>Kolbers and all ULers,
>
>John is only two weeks away from his ETD to Pt. Barrow Alaska, and
>return. I have no idea who, and in what manner, have sent some token of
>support to John. As what I would call The Chief Kolb Pilot, he
>represents us all in this tough endevour. If you personally can't pour a
>gallon of gas into his tanks, how about dropping the equivalent into an
>envelope to :
>
>John Hauck
>255 Coosa Ave.
>Titus AL 36080
>
>You've all heard the saying, "Walk a mile in his shoes"? Well, how about
>riding along in his fuel tank? Equates to about half a six pack, or if
>you're still on the weed, a pack of cancer igniter sticks.
>
>C'mon, show John how Kolbers support each other.
>
>Bob N.
>
>pee ess I'll contribute a buck from each sale of Flying Tales--see
>below.
>
>http://members.nbci.com/ronoyer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
A local friend, who is building another flavor of plane ( ! ! ! ) wants
to put in an artificial horizon, and pull the vacuum off the intake
manifold of his Rotax 912S. I told him I didn't think it was the best
plan, and he countered by saying that many people have done it, and
can't tell the difference. I dunno. Whadda you guys think ?? I know
it's not Kolb, but it does relate. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
Lar,
<>
Don't have any direct knowledge with the 912 but it should work.
Thousands of GA aircraft (including my old Mooney) fly around with
exactly the same idea as a "backup" vacuum system. There are some large
restrictions on how much throttle you can use and still have enough
vacuum. The higher the altitude the more closed the throttle and so
less power available. Would rather limit your cruse speed/altitude
capabilities.
If it were me I would go with an electric turn co-ordinator instead.
More reliable and fewer restrictions with enough information to stay
upright.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Building original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Morning Gang:
Miss P'fer, The Hauck Special, flies. After resting in the
nest for more than 11 months, the Hauck Special has not
forgotten how to fly. Felt great to be back in the air
again.
Engine ran great. Did about 30 mins taxi tests and static
WOT runs.
Several things have changed since we last flew:
a. Main gear legs 2 inches longer.
b. Repositioned engine on the mounts in the standard
position, rather than with the front of the engine raised
5/8 inch.
c. Seats are 2 to 3 inches lower and 2 inches further aft.
d. Replaced 2 inch prop extension with a 4 inch extension.
e. Upgraded wheels and brakes, with 3/4 inch axles and
tapered roller bearings.
Changing seat and gear legs changes my perception of where
the main gear are when landing. Will take a few more
landings to get comfortable with that, but I like the new
improved seat back frames and position. Will be a lot more
comfortable and less tiring on long days in the saddle.
The engine coolant and oil temps seem to be running warmer.
Guessing that the prop extension or change in engine
position has influenced this change.
Air speeds seem slower, but I have not calibrated the static
system since I replaced the pitot/static hoses. I am also
getting indications of lowered stall speeds in all
configurations by about 4 or 5 mph, so I think it is
indications and not true speeds that have changed.
New landing gear and wheels work great on pavement, better
than my old set up. Did some fast taxi tests on pavement.
She tracks straight with no tricks.
The new wheels and brakes are rated at 1,100+ lbs. The old
UL MATCOs were rated at 600+ lbs. Brakes are much better.
On pavement, they pull the heavy MK III to a halt in just a
few feet. Nice smooth stop with no tires screaming and
smoking. Feels good. Didn't have a chance to do any cross
wind landings on pavement yet. That may be another story.
:-)
I plan on raising the front of the engine back to where it
was last year, 5/8".
Calibrate static system to get the true airspeed closer to
IAS.
The 4" prop extension seems to have reduced prop noise.
I'll have to get the engine repositioned and calibrate
airspeed before I can tell if there is any change in
performance. I am hoping that we may have increased thrust,
but won't know until we get set up to make another test.
With all the work and changes, I am happy and satisfied. A
little tweaking here and there and she will be her old self.
I plan to put about 50 hours on her before I depart for
Barrow. I must fly enough to feel that everything is going
to remain operational for the duration of the flight. The
1994 flight was accomplished with no mechanical problems
other than midrange carburation problems. If the 912S leans
out in midrange in cold air, I will be able to put the fix
on it by raising the fuel needles a notch. I haven't had a
chance to test the engine in freezing weather, nor my Chille
Vest, but I am sure I will before the flight is over.
Tentative departure from Gantt International Airport is 1
July 2001. Twenty days and counting.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
<>
Mine too.
Bill George
Mk-3 Almost Verner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Brake drum bolt pattern |
I just finished putting Azura brakes on a Firefly and
the 4 1/2 drums on the 6" wheels (I think) are what I
used.
One word of warning or input.
After completion of the brake assembly to the axle
stubs and flanges (in a bench vise) I noticed a very
slight tendency to grab. It appeared to me that the
drum was not perfectly round. Talked to Azura Cus.Ser
and they very graciously sent me two new drums, N.C..
Pretty damn good on their part since the brakes came
fro TNK.
After installing the new drums to the wheels I saw
that the problem was actually with the holes in the
wheels. I tried a different set of the same type/make
of wheel with the exact same result.
I did manage to get some of the "Grabbing" out by
actually loosening up on the brake assembly to the
flange. This allows the two parts to work better
together. The sad part is that this is exactly what
the Kolb directions say to do ! (Who need stinking
directions ?)
Just some tips.
Use what you will and toss the rest.
The above are my opinions only and are not necessarily
those of the manufactures named.
Ed Mills
Dallas Tx
--- DataBuilder wrote:
>
>
> I believe the Asuza 5" wheel is for the 8" rim. You
> need the 4 1/2" brake
> for the 6" wheel. Here is Asuza's web address:
> http://www.azusaeng.com/catalog/catalog.html
>
>
> Brian Hale
> Sacramento, CA
> Firestar I
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of Mike Pierzina
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2001 11:58 AM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Brake drum bolt pattern
>
>
>
>
> I ordered the 5" Azusa brake assy. and the bolt
> pattern on the brake drum
> is smaller than the wheel.
> Is there some kinda adapter for it or do I have to
> re-drill the drums ?
> And while I'm here what kind of set-up are you guys
> running on those 503's
> , 1 carb. or 2 ?
> Mike in Mn. FSII , still building , but it's
> lookin like an airplane
> now... Gotta Fly...
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
Great news JH ! Thanks for sharing all your insights & experience!
Keep it up & keep in touch!
--- John Hauck wrote:
>
> Morning Gang:
>
> Miss P'fer, The Hauck Special, flies. After resting in the
> nest for more than 11 months, the Hauck Special has not
> forgotten how to fly. Felt great to be back in the air
> again.
>
> Engine ran great. Did about 30 mins taxi tests and static
> WOT runs.
>
> Several things have changed since we last flew:
>
> a. Main gear legs 2 inches longer.
>
> b. Repositioned engine on the mounts in the standard
> position, rather than with the front of the engine raised
> 5/8 inch.
>
> c. Seats are 2 to 3 inches lower and 2 inches further aft.
>
> d. Replaced 2 inch prop extension with a 4 inch extension.
>
> e. Upgraded wheels and brakes, with 3/4 inch axles and
> tapered roller bearings.
>
> Changing seat and gear legs changes my perception of where
> the main gear are when landing. Will take a few more
> landings to get comfortable with that, but I like the new
> improved seat back frames and position. Will be a lot more
> comfortable and less tiring on long days in the saddle.
>
> The engine coolant and oil temps seem to be running warmer.
> Guessing that the prop extension or change in engine
> position has influenced this change.
>
> Air speeds seem slower, but I have not calibrated the static
> system since I replaced the pitot/static hoses. I am also
> getting indications of lowered stall speeds in all
> configurations by about 4 or 5 mph, so I think it is
> indications and not true speeds that have changed.
>
> New landing gear and wheels work great on pavement, better
> than my old set up. Did some fast taxi tests on pavement.
> She tracks straight with no tricks.
>
> The new wheels and brakes are rated at 1,100+ lbs. The old
> UL MATCOs were rated at 600+ lbs. Brakes are much better.
> On pavement, they pull the heavy MK III to a halt in just a
> few feet. Nice smooth stop with no tires screaming and
> smoking. Feels good. Didn't have a chance to do any cross
> wind landings on pavement yet. That may be another story.
> :-)
>
> I plan on raising the front of the engine back to where it
> was last year, 5/8".
>
> Calibrate static system to get the true airspeed closer to
> IAS.
>
> The 4" prop extension seems to have reduced prop noise.
> I'll have to get the engine repositioned and calibrate
> airspeed before I can tell if there is any change in
> performance. I am hoping that we may have increased thrust,
> but won't know until we get set up to make another test.
>
> With all the work and changes, I am happy and satisfied. A
> little tweaking here and there and she will be her old self.
>
> I plan to put about 50 hours on her before I depart for
> Barrow. I must fly enough to feel that everything is going
> to remain operational for the duration of the flight. The
> 1994 flight was accomplished with no mechanical problems
> other than midrange carburation problems. If the 912S leans
> out in midrange in cold air, I will be able to put the fix
> on it by raising the fuel needles a notch. I haven't had a
> chance to test the engine in freezing weather, nor my Chille
> Vest, but I am sure I will before the flight is over.
>
> Tentative departure from Gantt International Airport is 1
> July 2001. Twenty days and counting.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3 269LJ, 582, 6 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | The story continues (cayuna) |
While out flying Sunday, I managed to get about as far from home as I
have ever been with my Cayuna powered Ultrastar ( bought with shadetree
overhaul of 15 hrs.) and wouldn't you know it, it started vibrating with
a drop in Egt from 1150 to 1050.(not fouled plug) Managed to get home
ok . I had previously pulled both cylinders and installed new aluminum
cylinder base seals and head gaskets and also found 2 wrist pin clips
improperly installed and about to become wanderers. That should have
made me suspect that the bottom end might have suffered from the same
sloppy work .Well , the cylinder next to the fan always blackened the
plug fairly quickly( very rich ) and the other was always spotless with
no color (extreme lean). I thought I could fix the problem with the
cylinder gaskets because of the notoriety of the Cayuna paper gaskets.
So much for thinking ! ......I now believe I have an air leak in the
output shaft seal or the crankcase parting surface so it looks like a
complete dissassembly is needed. But before I do that , I am going to
pressure test the entire block to make sure it is an air leak. Sometimes
the hard way is the quickest and easiest. Two strokes are new to me but
after 30 years as an A&P I should realize that you should never believe
anyone selling a used flying machine........Wallet , here I come
again.... Ed in western NY (raining)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
I believe the Asuza 5" wheel is for the 8" rim. You need the 4 1/2" brake
for the 6" wheel.
Oops, I wish this message would have a day sooner, I just made "slots" outa the
holes in the brake drums , when I gave them a spin they looked good but the
tire sure looked like crap, it looked about 3/8 outa round.....both tires
Well the hard part is over the other half ( still on back order ) shouldn't be
a problem ... I looked at a set of 4 1/2" brakes at the Go-Cart shop , and I thought
they looked too small....Did any of you guys put 5" on your Firestar
Gotta Fly...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TBarry" <tbarrysprint(at)earthlink.net> |
Had a trailer accident the other day and put a dent in the main fuslage
tube. The dent soon turned into a small crack. The crack is now about 1.5
inches. I drilled some stress relief holes to stop the spread of the crack.
Question?
Short of buying a new tube is there a safe way to fix this problem?
Thank-you in advance for any ideas, suggestions and words of wisdom.
TBarry
Tucson, Ariz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Amsoil Separation |
I want to warn you about old Amsoil. The story follows:
I took my plane to the airport in November of 1998. Due to the fact it had
no brakes and all surfaces were hard, I had some exciting times a round
other GA planes, getting run down trying to get in, and kicking rudder
pedals while trying to get the belts on etc., etc. This was supposed to be
fun, but I would be in such a sweat by the time I got to the runway to
practice taxiing etc, that I was in no condition to do anything.
I came to the conclusion that I had to have brakes. It took me nine months
to figure out how to get good brakes, third try was charmed, on those
little 4 inch Asuz wheels. And so my first flight came on 9/9/1999. At
the present time I have about 55 air hours on the plane, and I am still on
my first case of Amsoil 100:1 mix. I have found that the oil seems to be
separating into a liquid componet, a jello like componet and a hard
substance in the bottom of the bottle. I switched to a new case of oil,
and I contacted Amsoil about the old oil.
Their response was: "The separation is the result of water contamination.
It gets in over time, in spite of the plastic bottle no(t) "leaking". Do
not attempt to use the separated product in the bottom. Reduce the amount
purchased to reduce the storage time and store it indoors at normal room
temperature." I can say that I did put the plastic bottles to the test in
that, I hangar in the Mississippi River bottoms in all metal hangar. So
the humidity is high most of the time, and during the year when the
temperature fluctuates between above and below freezing the metal roof
sweats and drops so much water it is as if it has rained inside.
I am going to pour the old oil over into empty used oil bottles to check
for more jello lumps and to be sure there is no hard particulate in the
bottom of the bottle. The jello oil seems to mix with gasoline OK, but I
believe I will try to heat it to 220 degree F to see if I can drive off the
water. Amsoil people did not know if this would work or not.
Now that the plane is flying, I dought that I will ever have this problem
again. But I thought I should warn you just in case you have some old
bottles of Amsoil laying around. If nothing else, store your Amsoil in a
dry place. I will use the old oil in my weed wacker.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The story continues (cayuna) |
Before you tear it apart - if you haven't already - a trick we used to do
with chainsaws was to spray the suspected leak areas with WD-40, while the
motor is running. Starter fluid works even better, but it may be hard to
get some. Lots of it in the woods. Anyway, when you spray the leak area,
rpm's will increase, and you know for sure. With some types of seals,
pressure testing will actually squeeze the seal against the shaft, and no
leak will show. Worth a try. Logger Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 2:30 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: The story continues (cayuna)
>
> While out flying Sunday, I managed to get about as far from home as I
> have ever been with my Cayuna powered Ultrastar ( bought with shadetree
> overhaul of 15 hrs.) and wouldn't you know it, it started vibrating with
> a drop in Egt from 1150 to 1050.(not fouled plug) Managed to get home
> ok . I had previously pulled both cylinders and installed new aluminum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Amsoil Separation |
Amsoil sucks.
Just to get right to the point - my take on it "IMHO".
I've seen more than one engine screwed up by that s....
I think we still got a case of that "stuff" from 10 years ago.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Hi Barry,
It depends upon where the dent is located lengthwise along the tube and
also whether it is on the top side or bottom. Get your tape measure and
measure from the fuselage H-section bolt and let me know. Since the crack
is growing, I would guess it is in a higher stressed area ... closer to the
H-section than to the tail. This probably indicates a replacement is more
likely the recommended fix.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "TBarry" <tbarrysprint(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 7:34 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: bent tube
>
> Had a trailer accident the other day and put a dent in the main fuslage
> tube. The dent soon turned into a small crack. The crack is now about 1.5
> inches. I drilled some stress relief holes to stop the spread of the
crack.
> Question?
> Short of buying a new tube is there a safe way to fix this problem?
>
> Thank-you in advance for any ideas, suggestions and words of wisdom.
>
> TBarry
> Tucson, Ariz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
TBarry,
Where is the crack and what is the dent like?
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Amsoil Separation |
Jack and Group,
I used Amsoil for 12 years on 4 different Rotaxes and had no problems other
than too much carbon. I did have separation but never a problem that related
to it. Last year I switched to Pennsoil Air Cooled and I suggest that anyone
else that is not happy with their oil, try Pennsoil, too.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The story continues (cayuna) |
Ed and Group,
That Cayuna is an old engine and the shaft seal leaks are likely. Dealing with
this type of problem is one of the costs of flying with an engine that old. Just
my opinion.
John Jung
Edward Steuber wrote:
>
> While out flying Sunday, I managed to get about as far from home as I
> have ever been with my Cayuna powered Ultrastar ( bought with shadetree
> overhaul of 15 hrs.) and wouldn't you know it, it started vibrating with
> a drop in Egt from 1150 to 1050.(not fouled plug)
snip.......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TBarry" <tbarrysprint(at)earthlink.net> |
Dennis and John,
Thank-you for replying. The dent is on the underside of the tube 7.5 feet
back from the H bolt. It was hit by a tube support that is mounted on the
trailer. The dent is about a .25 inch deep and is across the diameter of the
tube. The cracks seemed to be caused from trailering the plane.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 06/11/01 |
In a message dated 6/12/01 2:52:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Subject: Kolb-List: She Flies
>
>
Congratulations John on blowing the dust off of the "Hauck Special". Best
of luck and have a safe trip north and back.
Bob G
528PY near Albany NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | FAA Civil Aviation Registry Registry |
Fliers and fixers, I was looking for a serial number for my N-number
application and the faa site has some nice new search features that
make easy work of it. Check it out and look for long lost airplanes at:
http://registry.faa.gov/registry.htm
Final note on the laser, after seeing the complexity of the framework
(see pics on laser search,courtesy matronics) you could never
competitively price it after all that welding labor unless it was made
in China. Bob B. ps/john h--attaboy and be good to miss pfer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
| Subject: | Amsoil Separation |
I use the 50/1 Amzoil and very satisfied with it--in back to back tank
fulls it gives lower EGT readings than Klotz synthetic and Penzoil Air
Cooled engine oil. I wonder if the thicker 100/1 is more likely to gel.
I bought 4-- 1 gallon jugs 2 years ago and I am now just finishing the
final gallon--no problem. There are lots of choices and everybody chooses
what works for them best.
Dale Seitzer
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jung
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Amsoil Separation
Jack and Group,
I used Amsoil for 12 years on 4 different Rotaxes and had no problems other
than too much carbon. I did have separation but never a problem that
related
to it. Last year I switched to Pennsoil Air Cooled and I suggest that
anyone
else that is not happy with their oil, try Pennsoil, too.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/12/01 9:15:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dixieshack(at)webtv.net writes:
> Don't think I want that stuff near my plane...even on piano hinges. I'm
> gonna go with air-cooled Pennzoil 2-stroke mixed 50:1 with Amoco silver.
> I just bought the 503 from TNK and at todays prices (everywhere) oil is
> still cheap....hard to justify using my new 503
> especally at altitude, as a test bed.
> IMHO only....
>
> Soon to be the "flyin' Hillbilly"
>
> Mike
>
>
Mike:
The Pennsoil Aircooled 2 Stroke oil with Amoco 87 octane is my recipe also;
however, I do add 2 oz. Marvel Mystery Oil per 6 gal. fuel. I'll let you
know results in about another 250 hours.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Tim,
The position doesn't sound bad, but the size might be bad. When you say across
the diameter, it just gives direction but not size. How big is the dent
and how
long are the cracks? If the size is small, in that area, I would be
tempted to
patch it. But I would want to hear at least Dennis's opinion first.
John Jung
TBarry wrote:
>
> Dennis and John,
>
> Thank-you for replying. The dent is on the underside of the tube 7.5 feet
> back from the H bolt. It was hit by a tube support that is mounted on the
> trailer. The dent is about a .25 inch deep and is across the diameter of the
> tube. The cracks seemed to be caused from trailering the plane.
>
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyColt45(at)aol.com |
I remember spending a few late afternoons at the Kolb strip (Phoenixville)
watching Dennis do a lot of work in the lazer. His wife took a billion
pictures while he flew a few feet above the ground the entire length of the
strip. Beautiful to see! They had Prince tips on the prop and I think they
were running the 582. I remember it being quiet and pretty responsive. Then
again Dennis has a way of getting a lot out of a plane.
Jim C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake drum bolt pattern |
Ed:
Currently have 16 hours on the same Azuza 6 inch wheels and Azuza 4.5 inch
brakes you mention....Was very dissatisfied with the 5 inch Azuza wheels on
the sand/grass strip we base upon, so slapped on the bigger 6 inch jobs...
(MUCH better) My drums (along with everything else I own) are warped a
bit... Mine also tended to grab a tad at first... took a grinder and worked
on the ends (edges) of the linings and it essentially removed the problem...
The brakes are no triple-puck powerhouse, but IMHO are more than adequate
for the Firefly. They are certainly powerful enough to help one turn a
sharp corner when applied differentially, and will easily bring the little
Fly to an abrupt halt at taxi speeds if an obstacle pops up... Am presently
satisfied... Will reserve judgment on the communist wheel bearings....
Beauford, the Aluminum Butcher of Brandon, FL
FF 076
----- Original Message -----
From: "ed mills" <edgmills(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 11:52 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Brake drum bolt pattern
>
> I just finished putting Azura brakes on a Firefly and
> the 4 1/2 drums on the 6" wheels (I think) are what I
> used.
> One word of warning or input.
> After completion of the brake assembly to the axle
> stubs and flanges (in a bench vise) I noticed a very
> slight tendency to grab. It appeared to me that the
> drum was not perfectly round. >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net> |
| Subject: | Airworthiness Certificate Limitations |
Hi Fellow Kolb Flyers,
I recently had my newest airplane inspected by a DAR to get the
airworthiness certificate. I had to negotiate to get the Operating
Limitations consistent with the most resent FAA order. Details follow.
I had reviewed the article in June 2001 edition of Sport Aviation on page 52
called "Final Inspection". Because I have done this once before, I also
reviewed the FAA Order 8130.2D chapter 4 section 7 which governs the
airworthiness inspections for our experimental aircraft. Paragraph 134 in
that section gives the typical list of limitations. That part of the rules
have been revised in the last couple of years and the present list of
limitations is far better for the owner/builder on several points than the
previous list.
If you are about to get an inspection, you may find these and other sources
help you be more prepared for it.
About a year ago, I had the limitations on my Firstar II updated to the most
recent language so I could make some changes and still keep it legal easily.
That time, I was putting on vortex generators, for example.
Operation Limitations are part of a Special Airworthiness Certificate which
is what is assigned to our experimental amateur-built aircraft. They govern
how and where the aircraft is used and maintained. This time, the inspector
showed up with the limitations all typed and ready to give to me. Part of
his responsibility is to go over them with the builder. I could see
immediately that I was not getting the new rules. When we got to the parts
I really cared about, I began to negotiate. Because I knew what the newest
order said and where it was located in the book, I was able to get at least
part of the limitations changed to reflect what is in the new order rather
than what the inspector had in hand. Even the book the inspector had in hand
was not completely up to date. Once I got the limitations I really care
about changed, I accepted the rest.
In particular, the rule governing what to do if you make changes called
"major changes" and the rule on who can inspect have been revised. They are
items in paragraph 134 numbered 19 and 26 in the most recently revised
order. You can find all this information at:
http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/amateur/
Near the bottom of the page you will find a pointer to the FAA Order 8130.2D
and its parts.
It would appear that some inspectors are still using old paperwork and
issuing limitations from an old order. They can issue what they want and
you are stuck with what they issue unless you can negotiate a better result.
I was able to get the parts I really cared about and you probably can, also,
should this happen to you. My experience implies you may have to know what
you want and may have to negotiate for it.
I submit this to you because I would not have been aware of any of this the
first time I did this. However, having your aircraft operating under the
new limitations makes it a lot easier you you to keep it legal, in my
opinion.
Vince
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry & Chris Deckard" <deckard(at)sheltonbbs.com> |
I mentioned this before with no response. This will be the last notice.
There is a UL gathering at Reelfoot State park in W TN on June 22-24. There
will be a few there on Friday and most will leave early Sunday morning. Come
one come all. The airport is 0M2. More info on my web site.
Jerry Deckard
www.semoairsports.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate Limitations |
Uh, Nicely put,
Vince.....................sorry.............:-)...............seriously,
this is one message that is going into my "Hold" file. Thanks ! ! !
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 6:46 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Airworthiness Certificate Limitations
>
> Hi Fellow Kolb Flyers,
>
> I recently had my newest airplane inspected by a DAR to get the
> airworthiness certificate. I had to negotiate to get the Operating
> Limitations consistent with the most resent FAA order. Details follow.
>
> I had reviewed the article in June 2001 edition of Sport Aviation on page
52
> called "Final Inspection". Because I have done this once before, I also
> reviewed the FAA Order 8130.2D chapter 4 section 7 which governs the
> airworthiness inspections for our experimental aircraft. Paragraph 134 in
> that section gives the typical list of limitations. That part of the
rules
> have been revised in the last couple of years and the present list of
> limitations is far better for the owner/builder on several points than the
> previous list.
>
> If you are about to get an inspection, you may find these and other
sources
> help you be more prepared for it.
>
> About a year ago, I had the limitations on my Firstar II updated to the
most
> recent language so I could make some changes and still keep it legal
easily.
> That time, I was putting on vortex generators, for example.
>
> Operation Limitations are part of a Special Airworthiness Certificate
which
> is what is assigned to our experimental amateur-built aircraft. They
govern
> how and where the aircraft is used and maintained. This time, the
inspector
> showed up with the limitations all typed and ready to give to me. Part of
> his responsibility is to go over them with the builder. I could see
> immediately that I was not getting the new rules. When we got to the
parts
> I really cared about, I began to negotiate. Because I knew what the
newest
> order said and where it was located in the book, I was able to get at
least
> part of the limitations changed to reflect what is in the new order rather
> than what the inspector had in hand. Even the book the inspector had in
hand
> was not completely up to date. Once I got the limitations I really care
> about changed, I accepted the rest.
>
> In particular, the rule governing what to do if you make changes called
> "major changes" and the rule on who can inspect have been revised. They
are
> items in paragraph 134 numbered 19 and 26 in the most recently revised
> order. You can find all this information at:
>
> http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/amateur/
>
> Near the bottom of the page you will find a pointer to the FAA Order
8130.2D
> and its parts.
>
> It would appear that some inspectors are still using old paperwork and
> issuing limitations from an old order. They can issue what they want and
> you are stuck with what they issue unless you can negotiate a better
result.
> I was able to get the parts I really cared about and you probably can,
also,
> should this happen to you. My experience implies you may have to know
what
> you want and may have to negotiate for it.
>
> I submit this to you because I would not have been aware of any of this
the
> first time I did this. However, having your aircraft operating under the
> new limitations makes it a lot easier you you to keep it legal, in my
> opinion.
>
> Vince
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TBarry" <tbarrysprint(at)earthlink.net> |
John,
The dented part goes from left to right (not back to front). On one side
there is an inch long crack that starts from the end of the dent toward the
bottom of the tube. The other crack is on the other side but is only a half
inch long. If you were laying on your back, looking at the underside of the
boom tube, you are looking at a dent that is 4 inches left to right and 1.5
inches front to back and .25 inches deep.
Hope this helps.
Appreciate all the advice,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: bent tube
>
>Tim,
>
>The position doesn't sound bad, but the size might be bad. When you say
across
>the diameter, it just gives direction but not size. How big is the dent
>and how
>long are the cracks? If the size is small, in that area, I would be
>tempted to
>patch it. But I would want to hear at least Dennis's opinion first.
>
>John Jung
>
>TBarry wrote:
>
>>
>> Dennis and John,
>>
>> Thank-you for replying. The dent is on the underside of the tube 7.5 feet
>> back from the H bolt. It was hit by a tube support that is mounted on the
>> trailer. The dent is about a .25 inch deep and is across the diameter of
the
>> tube. The cracks seemed to be caused from trailering the plane.
>>
>> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
I was recently talking to the FAA guy in this area (works in Louisville KY)
and he has been working with Norm Labhart on occasion concerning a new Kolb
design. This is second or third hand, so don't put any stock in this note,
but look for a Laser-like redesign coming out someday.
We mostly were discussing his most recent fatal aircraft investigation. A
student pilot in KY with 8-10 hours had rented a plane and was buzzing his
house solo, talking on his cell phone to his wife, when he stalled/spun it
in. His wife heard his full throttle attempt to recover from the stall on
the cell phone. They used cell phone records to pin-point the exact time of
impact.
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "HD Mitchell" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
TBarry et al,
I have a 6" boom tube that was shipped with my Mk3. It has a dent located close
to the center of the tube length. This dent is at ~45 degree angle to the axis
of the tube, is ~1/8th" deep and covers an eliptical area ~2 1/4 X 1 1/2".
This would probably be considered a minor dent but I did
not want it on my new plane. The old Kolb sent me a replacement tube. They did
not want to bother with the return of the dented item so I have been hanging onto
it just in case. I would sell it for less than a less-than-perfect / new price
if anyone is interested.
Haven't flown for three weeks because of wind and rain :-( .
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, Fl FireFly SN007, 447, Ivo, ~ 96 Hrs,
----- Original Message -----
From: TBarry
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 12:31 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: bent tube
John,
The dented part goes from left to right (not back to front). On one side
there is an inch long crack that starts from the end of the dent toward the
bottom of the tube. The other crack is on the other side but is only a half
inch long. If you were laying on your back, looking at the underside of the
boom tube, you are looking at a dent that is 4 inches left to right and 1.5
inches front to back and .25 inches deep.
Hope this helps.
Appreciate all the advice,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: bent tube
>
>Tim,
>
>The position doesn't sound bad, but the size might be bad. When you say
across
>the diameter, it just gives direction but not size. How big is the dent
>and how
>long are the cracks? If the size is small, in that area, I would be
>tempted to
>patch it. But I would want to hear at least Dennis's opinion first.
>
>John Jung
>
>TBarry wrote:
>
>>
>> Dennis and John,
>>
>> Thank-you for replying. The dent is on the underside of the tube 7.5 feet
>> back from the H bolt. It was hit by a tube support that is mounted on
the
>> trailer. The dent is about a .25 inch deep and is across the diameter
of
the
>> tube. The cracks seemed to be caused from trailering the plane.
>>
>> Tim
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
This is not the first time that I have seen the
"Marvel Mystery oil" recommended.
Anyone have additional info on this?
Advantages, test results, real time experience etc...
Thanks
Ed
Dallas,Tx.
--- HShack(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 6/12/01 9:15:49 AM Eastern
> Daylight Time,
> dixieshack(at)webtv.net writes:
>
>
> > Don't think I want that stuff near my plane...even
> on piano hinges. I'm
> > gonna go with air-cooled Pennzoil 2-stroke mixed
> 50:1 with Amoco silver.
> > I just bought the 503 from TNK and at todays
> prices (everywhere) oil is
> > still cheap....hard to justify using my new 503
> > especally at altitude, as a test bed.
> > IMHO only....
> >
> > Soon to be the "flyin' Hillbilly"
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> Mike:
> The Pennsoil Aircooled 2 Stroke oil with Amoco 87
> octane is my recipe also;
> however, I do add 2 oz. Marvel Mystery Oil per 6
> gal. fuel. I'll let you
> know results in about another 250 hours.
>
> Shack
> FS I
> SC
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
This is another call for any builder/pilot Database update revisions. Please
E-mail me directly for any changes or additions. I would like to give John
the latest version before he heads North. Update: I have my website but am
still trying to get help to build it. It is coming soon...?...
Kip
Atlanta
dama(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I have a 503 with a B box at 2.58. I mentioned some time ago that I have
problems taking another person up ( I weigh about 170) in my Mark III
and I asked about going to a 582.
Response for the 582 was great but they are a little expensive. I just
talked with Ben at LEAF and he suggested just changing the gear box. He
suggested a C box with ratios of 3.1 or 3.47 or going to a 4.1 and a
larger prop. Of course he said I would need to change the prop pitch
also.
Would appreciate any and all feedback.
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
He
> suggested a C box with ratios of 3.1 or 3.47 or going to a 4.1 and a
> larger prop. Of course he said I would need to change the prop pitch
> also.
> Jim
Jim and Gang:
Where did Ben come from?
Personal opinion, 503 is what folks are flying solo in
Firestars. Asking it to haul around two people with snappy
performance in a Mark III is asking too much of 52 hp. I
don't know that putting on a heavier more expensive gear box
will in fact increase your performance. A new gear box and
prop will not increase your performance, it will decrease
your bank account.
Sometimes we have to get realistic. Those that don't, end
up spending a lot of money to try and make something of
nothing. They end up spending more money in the long run.
Remember Rusty, who was advised by Dennis Souder that he
would not be satisfied with a 503 on a Slingshot? He got
one anyhow to save money, didn't like it after he flew it.
Decided to invest more money in one of those "super"
expansion chambers that many people preceding him bought and
seized their engines. Guess what? He seized his also.
If it was me and I wanted to fly two up and enjoy it, I
would figure out how to get me a 582. I would start with
Ronnie Smith at South Mississippi Light Aircraft. Ronnie
accepts tradeins. I have done two engine swaps with him
over the years. A 582 for a 912 (that I didn't know how I
was gonna pay for it) and the 912 for a 912S. But I wanted
those engines bad enough to figure out a way to get them,
and Ronnie helped by giving me a good deal on my trade in.
Ronnie is in Lucedale, Mississippi, and he supports my
flights.
Got a lot of work left to do and it is not raining.
TAke care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr SMC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Verner Motor |
MEMATUZAK(at)aol.com wrote:
< Cost? >
John Hauck wrote:
< Maintenance? > john h
=============================
Kolbers -
I paid $7.5K for mine six months ago. This was for a complete engine,
everything needed to fly. Just add oil and a prop.
I am presently in the process of installing the engine on my Mark-III. As
for maintenance, my engine hasn't run yet, so no history in that area. But
I get the overwhelming impression that this could be a very reliable
4-stroke powerplant, with its crowbar-simple design and low parts count.
Stay tuned to this List over the next year, and watch for reports of the
Verner on Mark-IIIs from myself and Bill George (who just bought his Verner
this month).
Congrats, John H, on gettin' Miss P'Fer back in the air. The kinds of
stories you tell about you and your little airplane are what keeps me
energized to finish up my own Kolb! I bought ya a couple of gallons of gas
for your Barrow trip - watch your mail.
Regards -
Dennis Kirby
Mk-3, 95% done, Verner-1400, Powerfin-72 in
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Verner Motor |
> < Maintenance? > john h
*****************************
As
> for maintenance, my engine hasn't run yet, so no history in that area. But
> I get the overwhelming impression that this could be a very reliable
> 4-stroke powerplant, with its crowbar-simple design and low parts count.
> Dennis Kirby
*********************************
Dennis:
It does look like a strong reliable engine.
I am sure you have read the operator's manual. I think I
pulled one up on the web site or the maintenance schedule
was posted on the Verner web site. It seemed to me to be a
mantenance intensive engine. Being maintenance intensive
does not mean it is unrealiable or a poor design. To me it
means that is is going to require more work to keep it ready
to fly. For example, and please do not quote me cause I am
pulling this out of my rusty memory bank and it has been a
long time since I read about the Verner, I think when you
were shopping for one.
Every 25 hours: Valve adjustment
Cam chain tensioner adjustment
There was a pretty good size list of requirements, but the
above stood out in my mind. One good thing, it only has two
cylinders.
Don't get me wrong. I am not shooting down the Verner or
any other engine. I am sure there are a lot more good
things about this engine to more than compensate for
additional maintenance items.
Better get back to work. Good luck with the new engine. I
got to see it fly on the Mark III Extra at Lakeland, but did
not fly it myself.
Take care,
john h
PS: Thanks for the check. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil Testimonial |
Hi,
A recent message said:
> This is not the first time that I have seen the
> "Marvel Mystery oil" recommended.
> Anyone have additional info on this?
> Advantages, test results, real time experience etc...
> Thanks
I have 296 hours on my 503 at this time and have never had the head off.
Yes, I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel. Furthermore, I have one test
comparison with and without. While I will tell you about this result, the
comparison was not a carefully controlled "scientific" test, so you may want
to do a similar test for yourself.
Usually, I have used Pennzoil for air-cooled engines. A couple of years
ago, I decided to give Phillips InJex oil a try. The system uses gas and
oil mix. So, I pulled the sparkplugs and exhaust manifold to see the state
of the system. It was clean as usual. So, I started using the InJex
without Marvel Mystery Oil. After 20 hours (about 50 gallons of regular 87
octane fuel same as usual), I pulled the exhaust manifold again. There was
a lot of carbon (about 1/8 thick and hard) in the exhaust port on the top
side and on the manifold on the top side. Cleaned it. Because I wanted to
use the airplane and had no other oil that week, I ran it another 6.1 hours
on the Injex, but this time I added the Marvel Mystery Oil at 4 oz/ 10
gallons fuel. After the 6.1 hours, I again removed the exhaust manifold.
The exhaust was clean as could be. At that point I switched back to the
Pennzoil anyway because my order had come.
Maybe the Marvel Mystery Oil was the difference, or it could have been other
things. I have continued to use it.
Vince Nicely
Firestar II (296 Hours)
P.S. Think I will run the engine a couple more hundreds of hours cause it
runs like new.
----- Original Message -----
From: "ed mills" <edgmills(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Amsoil message of Mon, 11 Jun 2001
>
> This is not the first time that I have seen the
> "Marvel Mystery oil" recommended.
> Anyone have additional info on this?
> Advantages, test results, real time experience etc...
> Thanks
> Ed
> Dallas,Tx.
> --- HShack(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 6/12/01 9:15:49 AM Eastern
> > Daylight Time,
> > dixieshack(at)webtv.net writes:
> >
> >
> > > Don't think I want that stuff near my plane...even
> > on piano hinges. I'm
> > > gonna go with air-cooled Pennzoil 2-stroke mixed
> > 50:1 with Amoco silver.
> > > I just bought the 503 from TNK and at todays
> > prices (everywhere) oil is
> > > still cheap....hard to justify using my new 503
> > > especally at altitude, as a test bed.
> > > IMHO only....
> > >
> > > Soon to be the "flyin' Hillbilly"
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > Mike:
> > The Pennsoil Aircooled 2 Stroke oil with Amoco 87
> > octane is my recipe also;
> > however, I do add 2 oz. Marvel Mystery Oil per 6
> > gal. fuel. I'll let you
> > know results in about another 250 hours.
> >
> > Shack
> > FS I
> > SC
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Marvel Mystery Oil |
Fron the posts I have been reading is seems like this oil is the way to
go. If you use an oil injection system for the two cycle oil do you
still add this Mystery oil to the gasoline or do you have to pre-mix the
two cycle oil?
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil |
If you use an oil injection system for the two cycle oil do you
> still add this Mystery oil to the gasoline or do you have to pre-mix the
> two cycle oil?
On my 582 with oil injection, I still put the Marvel Mystery oil in the gas.
Do not want to dilute the regular oil. Be interested if anyone else does it
differently.
Vince Nicely
Rotax 582 on my Sonerai
Rotax 503 on my Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
If you guys used Klotz KL-216 http://www.klotzlube.com/ synthetic oil,
there would need for the Marvel Mystery Oil. After using mineral oils for
many years, I will never go back. The Klotz is also an excellent storage
lubricant too.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar, all synthetic engine (Mobil 1 gear oil for the
gearbox)
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/13/01 2:27:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
> Response for the 582 was great but they are a little expensive. I just
> talked with Ben at LEAF and he suggested just changing the gear box. He
> suggested a C box with ratios of 3.1 or 3.47 or going to a 4.1 and a
> larger prop. Of course he said I would need to change the prop pitch
> also.
> Would appreciate any and all feedback.
>
> Jim
> Mark III
> Charlotte, NC
>
>
>
What prop are you running now & what is the maximum diameter you can use?
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil |
In a message dated 6/13/01 4:46:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ronormar(at)apex.net writes:
> Fron the posts I have been reading is seems like this oil is the way to
> go. If you use an oil injection system for the two cycle oil do you
> still add this Mystery oil to the gasoline or do you have to pre-mix the
> two cycle oil?
>
>
Just put it in the gas. I use 2 oz. per 6 gal. Buy the bigger bottles; it's
not very expensive.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Klotz KL-216 |
In a message dated 6/13/01 6:11:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ul15rhb(at)juno.com
writes:
> If you guys used Klotz KL-216 http://www.klotzlube.com/ synthetic oil,
> there would need for the Marvel Mystery Oil. After using mineral oils for
> many years, I will never go back. The Klotz is also an excellent storage
May 23, 2001 - June 13, 2001
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-cx