Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dk
January 25, 2002 - February 13, 2002
"Kottke, Dwight" wrote:
>
> Gary, what did you use for a ski for the rear wheel?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary r. voigt [mailto:johndeereantique(at)uswest.net]
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Winter Flying
>
>
>
> Dwight, i think you got the same plans as i have from my flying partner
> Ralph,
> there are a few things that i can tell you and i'am sure others will
> contribute more.
> make sure your ski tips are about 5-7 degrees higher than the rear when the
> plane is
> suspended on jack stands or whatever. this would be like putting a 5" or 6"
> object
> under the front of the ski for the proper pitch for me---and of course the
> length of
> the ski makes a big difference. i myself did not find any problems from
> wheels to
> skiis, in just taking-off it tracked easier and in landing in was very
> smooth assuming
> you have a good base 5"-6". be careful because too much snow and you seem to
> want to
> nose over easier. watch for those 4-wheeler tracks cross ways because they
> can make
> some pretty big ruts---do a low pass first to make sure you have a good
> landing site.
> also we use a teflon spray on the bottom of our skies as it will give us a
> low
> coefficient of friction. apply it before you put your skiis on it is alot
> easier and
> it will last 25-35 landings depending on the condition of the snow (wet,
> sloppy,
> sticky) etc. have fun, there are alot of little lakes and fields to be
> explored.
>
> http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/s.o.s/
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
> kxp model
>
> "Kottke, Dwight" wrote:
>
>
> >
> > I have used plans that I obtained from this list to make skis for my
> > Firestar and I am about ready to try them as soon as the conditions
> permit.
> > Here is my question for all of you hardy winter flyers. What are the do's
> > and don'ts of flying with skis?
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Winter Flying |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
>
> Gary, what did you use for a ski for the rear wheel?
Dwight,
You don't need one. The Firestar tail is light enough that it drags in
the snow just fine. I did add a triangular block of solid oak (1/2 pound)
routed out with slots that clamp to the tailwheel rod (see pics). This
offsets the added weight up front with all the winter clothes and
protects the tailwheel on takeoff and landing from the ice (two functions
in one).
I can email you a copy of my ski plans if you like.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ul15rhb@juno.com/
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ul15rhb@juno.com.12.10.2001/
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Weber" <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
I found an SWR meter on ebay sometime ago for about $50. It has several
ranges, including the aviation frequencies
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: swr meters
>
> <<<<<
> Will a CB SWR meter work on VHF antennas? My only source to
> borrow one
> would be the local local radio shack. Im sure they dont
> have anything even
> remotely related to aviation radios. They would probably
> have a CB SWR
> kicking around.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Be careful you don't over pressurize your lungs. Hate to see you have a
blow out.
On a forced air system there should be some exit holes to relieve
pressure. As long as you have a positive airflow, the slight pressure will
keep the fumes out.
The other thing is filters - don't use conventional furnace filters - they
are oiled and so will be your lungs if you breath air filtered through them.
How did you get rid of the dust in an old vacuum cleaner? I hate to even
think of it.
By the way Shop vac's put out to much air flow and pressure if restricted
by a mask.
jerryb
>
>Hi gang,
> I made a jury rigged fresh air unit out of my wifes old
>vacuum cleaner by using it backwards to blow air into a garden hose that
>screws into a modified firemans fullface mask I bought at an auction.
>Just place the vacuum outside and run the hose inside...there is enough
>pressure to allow air to push out around the face seal. I feed the
>garden hose under my belt and can move around with some restriction
>bacause of the stiffness of the hose. I haven't tried a compressor hose
>but it may work even though the volume would not be a available through
>the smaller hose.With a vacuum cleaner there is no risk of oil
>contamination from compressor oil. Works for me...Improvise and
>overcome...Semper FI...Ed from Western NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Fantastic view from space |
Pardon me, this takes maybe a coupla minutes to load--it'll dang near
blow yer mind. Almost as good as NPRM-guessing.
http://antwrp.gsfc.nasa.gov/apod/image/0011/earthlights_dmsp_big.jpg
bn the old one
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net> |
The olny onE I could find that would work on our frequency range was over
$200 at Radio Shack. There has to be a cheaper one out there. I asked the
guys at RS if they had one I could borrow. They dont.
Ross
> From: "Bill Weber" <bweber2(at)earthlink.net>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 17:54:38 -0800
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: swr meters
>
>
> I found an SWR meter on ebay sometime ago for about $50. It has several
> ranges, including the aviation frequencies
>
> Bill
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: swr meters
>
>
>>
>> <<<<<>
>> Will a CB SWR meter work on VHF antennas? My only source to
>> borrow one
>> would be the local local radio shack. Im sure they dont
>> have anything even
>> remotely related to aviation radios. They would probably
>> have a CB SWR
>> kicking around.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "William Herren" <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com> |
Original Message -----> >> Will a CB SWR meter work on VHF
>>antennas? My only source to
>> >> borrow one...
>> >
>Even down here in the sticks of Lousyana I frequently see a HAM radio
>operator licence plate. Most hams will have access to a meter for SWR.
>Disaster relief agencies probably have a list of local hams. Most of the
>hams I have known would be happy to see your project and help.
> Bill in Lousyana
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
At 10:18 PM 1/25/2002, you wrote:
>
>The olny onE I could find that would work on our frequency range was over
>$200 at Radio Shack. There has to be a cheaper one out there. I asked the
>guys at RS if they had one I could borrow. They dont.
Today, I just bought one off of eBay for $21. There were several others
for sale in the range for an aviation radio, and their prices were all <$60...
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Subject: | answer to jerryb |
I dissassebled the vacuum cleaner and cleaned the dust out and then left
the bag out ...just need the motor.........I have about $20 in the
system and I know it works as good as the $700 units that I have
borrowed. ...I spray a lot of Ranthane for my cropdusting
aircraft....Grumman Agcats....and highly recommend this
system......Cheap Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/26/02HELLO_OOOO! |
Where is everyone ? I know it hit 50* here in upstate NY on saturday, so
probably most were at the airport digging out their planes for a flight. I
know I did. Maybe some on the list can share some experiences's with unusual
flights they had, whether it was unusual weather, close traffic, getting
lost, problems in flight, etc. and how they handled it. That would make for
interesting reading.
Still looking for someone in the northeast to join me in flying to Sun &
Fun (in their plane) It would be fun with 2 or 3 going as a group.
Safe flying
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
Subject: | Securing Turnbuckles |
Can anyone please help me with the proper way of securing the
turnbuckles on the elevator cables. Do you use loctite on the treads or
just safety wire them? Where can I find a diagram or something to show
the best way to run the wire. We needed to adjust the cables on my
friend's used firestar that he just bought. We don't have any builders
manual.
Thanks,
Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Securing Turnbuckles |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net> |
Just safety wire. The Aircraft Spruce catalog has a very good description
with pictures of the 4 different methods of safety wiring turnbuckles. Just
look in the index for turnbuckles. It's in the same area.
Ross
> From: Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 21:00:20 -0500
> To: kolb-list
> Subject: Kolb-List: Securing Turnbuckles
>
>
> Can anyone please help me with the proper way of securing the
> turnbuckles on the elevator cables. Do you use loctite on the treads or
> just safety wire them? Where can I find a diagram or something to show
> the best way to run the wire. We needed to adjust the cables on my
> friend's used firestar that he just bought. We don't have any builders
> manual.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Earl
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Securing Turnbuckles |
You can find this info my doing a search on google.com - illustration of
safety wiring turnbuckles. See URL below. It has text and good diagrams.
http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/43-13/Ch_07-10.doc
>
> Can anyone please help me with the proper way of securing the
>turnbuckles on the elevator cables. Do you use loctite on the treads or
>just safety wire them? Where can I find a diagram or something to show
>the best way to run the wire. We needed to adjust the cables on my
>friend's used firestar that he just bought. We don't have any builders
>manual.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Earl
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Affordable SWR meter suitable for a/c band |
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
01/28/2002 07:20:14 AM
I found this in the archives...
Someone asked about affordable SWR meters. Here is a link to MFJ
enterprises which produces a few SWR meters. I have one of their model
812B and it is small, light, simple to operate, seems accurate and
repeatable, good quality, rated for 14 thru 200 Mhz. For 35 bucks you
can't beat it, in my opinion. Should be a valuable addition to any
ultralight clubhouse. I was amazed at the difference cables and cable
length alone made. I have my homemade antenna and cable setup tuned at SWR
of 1.55 or below across the a/c band now, after a little carefull tuning.
One more thing for you to tweak.
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/watt/mfj812b.html
Jim G
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
Gary, please explain a little more about this Teflon spray. What is the
brand name, where do I buy it, how do I apply it?
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary r. voigt [mailto:johndeereantique(at)uswest.net]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Winter Flying
Dwight, i think you got the same plans as i have from my flying partner
Ralph,
there are a few things that i can tell you and i'am sure others will
contribute more.
make sure your ski tips are about 5-7 degrees higher than the rear when the
plane is
suspended on jack stands or whatever. this would be like putting a 5" or 6"
object
under the front of the ski for the proper pitch for me---and of course the
length of
the ski makes a big difference. i myself did not find any problems from
wheels to
skiis, in just taking-off it tracked easier and in landing in was very
smooth assuming
you have a good base 5"-6". be careful because too much snow and you seem to
want to
nose over easier. watch for those 4-wheeler tracks cross ways because they
can make
some pretty big ruts---do a low pass first to make sure you have a good
landing site.
also we use a teflon spray on the bottom of our skies as it will give us a
low
coefficient of friction. apply it before you put your skiis on it is alot
easier and
it will last 25-35 landings depending on the condition of the snow (wet,
sloppy,
sticky) etc. have fun, there are alot of little lakes and fields to be
explored.
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/s.o.s/
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
kxp model
"Kottke, Dwight" wrote:
>
> I have used plans that I obtained from this list to make skis for my
> Firestar and I am about ready to try them as soon as the conditions
permit.
> Here is my question for all of you hardy winter flyers. What are the do's
> and don'ts of flying with skis?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Andrew Gassmann <agassmann(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Affordable SWR meter suitable for a/c band |
>http://www.mfjenterprises.com/watt/mfj812b.html
That wouldn't open for me, but I got through with:
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/products.php?prodid=MFJ-812B
but if that doesn't work, just enter the part number into the searcher,
and highlight the part number button..812B
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 01/27/02 aileron gap seal |
Yesterday I Had an urge to climb a little higher in my MK3, so I went a
little over 5000 ft. Interestingly you pay more attention to the airspeed
indicator, as you don't get the feeling that you are even moving across the
ground. The airport was off to my left, and a cross wind from my right, so
as I looked at the field, I felt like I was floating, with no forward speed,
and moving sideways towards the airport.
Usually, I need to hold a little right pressure on the stick to keep
the wings level, and as I started my decent, I realised my plane kept wanting
to roll right, on it's own, and I was holding Left pressure on the stick ?
What the heck was going on ? Looking out at the control surfaces, there it
was. 2---2 1/2 ft. of the aileron gap seal on the left wing was pulled
loose from the front part and hanging straight down. The air flow at that
point must have gone over the top of the wing and dove down through the gap,
or up through? I'm not sure which way it was going or how the flow was being
disturbed, but I do know that it made ALOT of difference in how the plane
handled. Time to get out the book binding tape and 2" fabric again. Seems
to last about 2 yrs.
Safe flying
Bob G
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Seminar was great |
Hi Sam,
Enjoyed the seminar. It was good and worth coming to.
Sorry we had to pull out before the last speaker finished (about 10 to
5). Larry my wing man was worried it might take us a while to fly back
(head wind) and didn't want to get caught in the dark. (Hey there was some
wind up there.) We got back just in time to roll the planes in the hangar
just as it was getting dark.
I don't know who was running the auction but I had a couple bids in, one
for an IVO shirt and the other on calendar. Since I was forced to leave, I
not sure what the out come was since I wasn't there after 5 PM. Do you
know if it was held for me or did I miss out. No big deal either way, I
just don't want to leave any one there hanging.
I was good to meet Tom Olenik in person. While he didn't come across well,
he has got to be one of the best Rotax repair operations out there. What I
want to know is what did you all do to that poor man. During his
presentation he acted like that breakfast or coffee you all feed him was
backing up. Maybe it was the after effect of the wild night out you all
gave him the previous evening. I think he was extremely nervous. Several
of us had a little question and answer session going during the break
following his presentation. It was like he was back in his nature
environment and responded to the questions very smoothly. Enjoyed meeting
him. It was well worth the trip.
For all concerned Larry Dobson and I both thought you all done a fantastic
job and appreciate all your effort put forth in pulling this event together.
Well done.
Jerry Bidle
CGS Hawk
Member - DFW Lt Flyers
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Seminar was great |
Oop's this message was supposed to go to one person. This is what I get
when for using a previous message. The seminar was great anyhow.
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Mark III Kit For Sale |
Hi Gang,
After much thought, I've decided to sell my uncompleted MK III project. I've
had the project for too many years and just don't know when or if I'll ever
get it finished. I've got a FireStar to rebuild and a Baby Ace to finish
repairing (hopefully I'll be finished with the Corbin this spring).
The wings and all of the other flying surfaces are completed but not covered.
Boom tube has been completed, elevators and stablizers mounted (clecos) and
control cables rigged. The pod has been fitted to the cage and the doors and
windows fitted also.
The cage has been modified by Jim Hauck so that it's just like John's. Dual
controls, hard seats, 18 gallon fuel tank up top, all the bells and whistles
plus a few other extras. For one thing, the original Kolb engine mount was
removed and a bed mount welded in designed to fit a Subaru EA-81. I have the
EA-81, an AMAX reduction unit, Warp Drive HP prop hub, prop hub extension,
Faucet fuel pumps, and kit for dual electronic ignition. The engine has been
re-built and the AMAX cam installed. Still needs starter, alternator, and
carburetor. I haven't done any measuring but if someone doesn't want to use
the EA-81 the bed mount should be easily adaptable to a Rotax 912. Ill sell
it with or without the Soob.
I hadn't planned on going to Alaska but this was meant to be a really nice
cross-country airplane. I want to sell it to someone that can do a good job
of finishing it up.
If you're interested, contact me off-list or give me a call. I'm located in
Montgomery, Al.
Bill Griffin
334-279-9899 (home)
334-265-8251 (work)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Sam Cox" <lightflyer(at)email.msn.com> |
Subject: | Seminar was great |
> I was good to meet Tom Olenik in person. While he didn't come across well,
> he has got to be one of the best Rotax repair operations out there. What I
> want to know is what did you all do to that poor man. During his
> presentation he acted like that breakfast or coffee you all feed him was
> backing up. Maybe it was the after effect of the wild night out you all
> gave him the previous evening. I think he was extremely nervous. Several
> of us had a little question and answer session going during the break
> following his presentation. It was like he was back in his nature
> environment and responded to the questions very smoothly. Enjoyed meeting
> him. It was well worth the trip.
I don't know if it was the wild late night party at Sonny Bryant's on Friday night,
or the Jalapeno's I fed him for
breakfast! :-) But by the time we got into Babe's Saturday night he was in the
swing of things.
I don't think Tom is quite used to public speaking yet, but the information was
right-on. I'll check on the auction items
for you, but there was a rush of last minuet bids.
Thanks for the kind words and we will make it better in 2003.
Sam Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
Subject: | MarkIII for sale |
I want to sell my MarkIII. Am getting into helicopters. Have my Rotorway
exec almost finished.
Anyway, the MarkIII has 130 hrs on it. Nav lites, strobe com radio with
intercom. Narco transponder tray. EIS engine information system.
Bob at kearbey(at)jps.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
HELP.
Just received a shocking insurance quote from Avemco for my Mark III Extra.
$ 3,732.- all risk, I million liability, $1000.- medical and $34,500 hull
coverage.
$ 2,093.- on ground only, including taxiing.
$ 720.- 1 million liability only.
There has to be much better deals out there.
Would like to hear what everyone is paying and with what Insurance co.
Thanks.
Hans van Alphen.
Mark III Extra.
BMW powered.
N100MX.
Expecting D.A.R. inspection this week !!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
Subject: | MarkIII for sale |
I want to sell my MarkIII. Am getting into helicopters. Have my Rotorway
exec almost finished.
Anyway, the MarkIII has 130 hrs on it. Nav lites, strobe com radio with
intercom. Narco transponder tray. EIS engine information system.
Bob at kearbey(at)jps.net
I wanted to add my phone number and location.
Bob kearbey
2690 Olive Hwy
Oroville, Ca. 95966
530-533-0200
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Kroll" <skroll(at)dellepro.com> |
Subject: | Re: damaged wing |
I recently brainfarted some serious damage into the leading edge of my
wings. I have taken the wings home to work on and have uncovered them
(man.....that was hard to do) to survey for damage.
My questions are these.....
(1.) Can I replace only a part of the leading edge tube or should I
replace it all? Doing just the portion that is damaged would save me a
lot of time drilling out rivits of course, but I want to make sure
sleeving the leading edge spar will be strong enough. And, if sleeving
the tube is ok, how long an area do I need to oversleeve the old tube?
(2.) Do I need to oversize the new rivits I put into the areas where I
drilled the old ones out?
Thanks in advance to anyone who has the knowlege to answer these
questions with some degree of certainty.
Steve (sick about my wings) Kroll
Mk2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Group,
Speaking of ski flying, I flew for the first time off skis this winter
yesterday. The warm winter here in Minnesota has not produced much snow
and most weekends have been windy. I had a great flight except I learned
something. I had a good case of carb icing. After flying for an hour and
a half, the engine was running very rough and even though I was over the
lake and could land anywhere, I nursed it another 6 miles to my car and
trailer parked out on the lake. While I was talking to some curiosity
seekers, I noticed the carb dripping water. I let it drip until it was
done and took it up for a test flight. It ran fine, so that was it.
The temps were 29F with 85% humidity. The engine did not quit, but if I
were on a cross country trip, I would have looked for a good place to
land and let the engine heat thaw the carb out. If the temps were very
cold, I don't think this would have worked. This is one reason why I
don't fly below 20F, but then I may not have seen carb icing at that
temperature.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Winter Flying |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
>
> Gary, please explain a little more about this Teflon spray. What
> is the
> brand name, where do I buy it, how do I apply it?
Dwight, I can answer for Gary as I told him about it originally. There
was a time when another friend and I landed in deep snow (about 2') at a
private airpark one afternoon. I landed fine with my composite water
skis, but my buddies Firestar stopped fast and nosed into the snow with
the warm conditions. He didn't break the nose cone, luckily, but had snow
inside the cockpit. With his wooden skis and 44F temps, I knew he was
going to have a dickens of a time getting out. He couldn't get up enough
speed to takeoff, so some guy on his snowmobile tried making us a runway
by packing it down with no success. I went over to his hanger and noticed
a can of LPS with Teflon (aerosol type) on his shelf. I asked if we could
give this a try and he gave us the "ok" so we sprayed the bottom of his
skis and gave it whirl. Well that did it, and he took off with no
problem.
Ever since then, I bring a can of "Tri-flow" with Teflon (similar to LPS)
but it has a pump spray instead of the aerosol. The pump spray will work
under any conditions and the aerosol could possibly freeze up. It will
get you out of a jam.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Back when I started flying, I bought a Cherokee 140. It was financed so I
had to insure it. The premium was $420 per year for full coverage with a
hull value of $12,500.
After 40 hours, I started flying a Pitts and couldn't afford to insure the
plane. Now that I have tons of flight time and can afford to insure them, I
can't see the point in paying the unreasonable premiums...So I still self
insure.
I did carry liability on both of the Pitts because I was flying airshows.
It was required by most clients (Incase you fly into the grand stands).
Liability on the Pitts was less than the Cherokee premium. Around $300 I
think...And they knew I was doing low level aerobatics.
You might do a little better than Avemco, but not much better. Remember...A
company that specializes in airplanes will probably be cheaper than your
average run of the mill insurance company.
I think the thing that effects the premium the most besides flight time is
the claim history of that particular model. Do the MarkIII's have a bad
claim history?
Ross
> From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 17:17:45 -0500
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: INSURANCE
>
>
> HELP.
> Just received a shocking insurance quote from Avemco for my Mark III Extra.
> $ 3,732.- all risk, I million liability, $1000.- medical and $34,500 hull
> coverage.
> $ 2,093.- on ground only, including taxiing.
> $ 720.- 1 million liability only.
> There has to be much better deals out there.
> Would like to hear what everyone is paying and with what Insurance co.
> Thanks.
> Hans van Alphen.
> Mark III Extra.
> BMW powered.
> N100MX.
> Expecting D.A.R. inspection this week !!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: damaged wing |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
> > My questions are these.....
>
> (1.) Can I replace only a part of the leading edge tube or should
> I
> replace it all? Doing just the portion that is damaged would save
> me a
> lot of time drilling out rivits of course, but I want to make sure
> sleeving the leading edge spar will be strong enough. And, if
> sleeving
> the tube is ok, how long an area do I need to oversleeve the old
> tube?
>
> (2.) Do I need to oversize the new rivits I put into the areas
> where I
> drilled the old ones out?
> Thanks in advance to anyone who has the knowlege to answer these
> questions with some degree of certainty.
>
> Steve (sick about my wings) Kroll
Steve you may be sick, but there is hope. Splicing the LE may not be the
solution because splicing with rivets would show through the fabric in a
visible area. What I would do is cut out enough fabric along the LE, top
an bottom, and simply replace the whole LE tube. All you would have to do
is drill out the rib, false rib, and bow tip rivets and that's it! The
fabric could be laid on nicely, glued down and shrunk with the usual dope
and paint. Done right, you would be hard pressed seeing the difference
between the old and new.
What did you do so we can keep from doing the same. That leading edge is
so vulnerable when it's folded. I try my darndest to be careful when
trailering.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: damaged wing |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
(1) You can sleeve it, depending on where the damage is. If it in inside
to the strut I would sleeve it. If it is outside, I would replace the
entire leading edge. Tube is cheap. Under alot of G, an unsupported
(outside the strut) sleeved joint could fail.
Of course that just me being my overcautious self. I think leading edges,
trailing edges and spars should be one peice of tubing with no joints.
If you decide to sleeve it, go atleast 12" on either side.
(2) You dont need to use larger rivets if you do a good job of drilling out
the old rivets. I just finished putting my tail feathers together. I
drilled out all of the rivets and replaced them. Lots of them had loosened
up over the years. I was able to replace them with the same size (1/8").
Ross
> From: "Steve Kroll" <skroll(at)dellepro.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 16:45:56 -0600
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: damaged wing
>
>
> I recently brainfarted some serious damage into the leading edge of my
> wings. I have taken the wings home to work on and have uncovered them
> (man.....that was hard to do) to survey for damage.
>
> My questions are these.....
>
> (1.) Can I replace only a part of the leading edge tube or should I
> replace it all? Doing just the portion that is damaged would save me a
> lot of time drilling out rivits of course, but I want to make sure
> sleeving the leading edge spar will be strong enough. And, if sleeving
> the tube is ok, how long an area do I need to oversleeve the old tube?
>
> (2.) Do I need to oversize the new rivits I put into the areas where I
> drilled the old ones out?
> Thanks in advance to anyone who has the knowlege to answer these
> questions with some degree of certainty.
>
> Steve (sick about my wings) Kroll
> Mk2
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Use of ELT antennas for handheld |
I've considered using a ELT antenna. Anyone have any experience do this as
an external mounted hand held antenna. I would think they should work well
since their designed to work at 121.5 MHz, about the mid-point of the
aviation com frequencies. Question how do they perform at opposite ends of
the com frequency band - 118 & 137 MHz.
On our FireFly we added a little more aluminum sheet metal to form a larger
floor board. It performs a second function as the ground plane for the
antenna . Drilled a larger hole ~ 1" dia. through the bottom of the nose
cone about 1" - 2" forward of the edge and through it a smaller hole
through the floor pan to mount a bulk head BNC connector. Made an antenna
out of a length of music wire cut to a specific over all length (can't
recall how long right now) soldered to the center conductor of a BNC
connector. (Note music wire is steel, it will rust - suggest using
stainless steel available from a hobby store - may have to silver solder
it) Insulate the wire from the other shell of the BNC connector by
applying epoxy to the center of the connector where the wire exits. Using
the standard BNC connector allows the antenna to pivot should it snag some
thing when the aircraft is pushed backwards. About 3" from the connector
it's bent to an angle of about 45 degrees so it doesn't drag on the ground
under the airplane. It works extremely well.
A friend made up similar arrangement for the antenna using the metal whip
section available from "good" Radio Shack" stores. It can be ordered if
they don't carry it. It consists of only the stainless steel whip with the
small ball on the end, and a connector that allows the antenna to be cut
and moved in & out to fine tune the antenna for minimum SWR. It is not an
entire antenna assembly they'll try to pawn off on your, cost was around
$5-$6. This has also worked well and doesn't rust but is a little harder
to solder.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Use of ELT antennas for handheld |
> I've considered using a ELT antenna. Anyone have any experience do this as
> an external mounted hand held antenna.
jeryb
Jerryb/Gang:
Have used ELT antenna for ELT and VHF Comm for years. Works
great.
Check the archives. I have written about the above several
times.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
One thing that's probably hurting you is your engine - little - no history
on make and model.
Seems a little out of proportion for the hull not in (flight) motion
coverage. What's your tail wheel experience?
Are you trying to cover from day one or after some established number of
flight hours, 10, 20, that too will make a difference.
Welcome to aviation.
>
>HELP.
>Just received a shocking insurance quote from Avemco for my Mark III Extra.
>$ 3,732.- all risk, I million liability, $1000.- medical and $34,500 hull
>coverage.
>$ 2,093.- on ground only, including taxiing.
>$ 720.- 1 million liability only.
>There has to be much better deals out there.
>Would like to hear what everyone is paying and with what Insurance co.
>Thanks.
>Hans van Alphen.
>Mark III Extra.
>BMW powered.
>N100MX.
>Expecting D.A.R. inspection this week !!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JOHN M. COOLEY" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Subject: | Re: damaged wing |
Hi Steve and Gang,
I just ordered some stainless rivets from TNK today to put my MK II
Twinstar back together with. I'm using mostly 1/8" dia. rivets, but they do
have 5/32" dia rivets 1/8" long if you need some oversized ones.
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II #1162, Rebuilding Twinstar MK II
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Carlisle" <rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: damaged wing
>
> (1) You can sleeve it, depending on where the damage is. If it in inside
> to the strut I would sleeve it. If it is outside, I would replace the
> entire leading edge. Tube is cheap. Under alot of G, an unsupported
> (outside the strut) sleeved joint could fail.
>
> Of course that just me being my overcautious self. I think leading edges,
> trailing edges and spars should be one peice of tubing with no joints.
>
> If you decide to sleeve it, go atleast 12" on either side.
>
> (2) You dont need to use larger rivets if you do a good job of drilling
out
> the old rivets. I just finished putting my tail feathers together. I
> drilled out all of the rivets and replaced them. Lots of them had
loosened
> up over the years. I was able to replace them with the same size (1/8").
>
> Ross
>
> > From: "Steve Kroll" <skroll(at)dellepro.com>
> > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 16:45:56 -0600
> > To:
> > Subject: Kolb-List: Re: damaged wing
> >
> >
> > I recently brainfarted some serious damage into the leading edge of my
> > wings. I have taken the wings home to work on and have uncovered them
> > (man.....that was hard to do) to survey for damage.
> >
> > My questions are these.....
> >
> > (1.) Can I replace only a part of the leading edge tube or should I
> > replace it all? Doing just the portion that is damaged would save me a
> > lot of time drilling out rivits of course, but I want to make sure
> > sleeving the leading edge spar will be strong enough. And, if sleeving
> > the tube is ok, how long an area do I need to oversleeve the old tube?
> >
> > (2.) Do I need to oversize the new rivits I put into the areas where I
> > drilled the old ones out?
> > Thanks in advance to anyone who has the knowlege to answer these
> > questions with some degree of certainty.
> >
> > Steve (sick about my wings) Kroll
> > Mk2
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Securing Turnbuckles |
> You'll find that the cut ends are sharp, and bite
>fingertips real well.
Next time perhaps if you bend the ends over it will have less of a
tendency to stick in the soft parts of your anatomy.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Securing Turnbuckles |
That's too simple...........I gotta find the hard way. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Securing Turnbuckles
>
>
> > You'll find that the cut ends are sharp, and bite
> >fingertips real well.
>
> Next time perhaps if you bend the ends over it will have less of a
> tendency to stick in the soft parts of your anatomy.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: damaged wing |
I personally would feel free to splice the leading edge. IMHO, splices
are about as strong as the rest of the tube, and the ribs are a big
factor in taking up the loads on the LE tube anyway. The firestar
drawings show how to do a splice -- referring to the trailing edge
anyway, and that calls for a 6" long piece for the splice. I used a
little longer, maybe 8 or 9" for comfort. 1/8" rivets will fill a
slightly larger hole. I don't see why you would have any larger a hole
tho, because the splice holes would all be new. BTW I would not
rebuild anything where there were holes left without mated parts, i.e.,
don't re-use material any ol place and think left over rivet holes are
unimportant.
Another factor, I assume it is difficult to get a 12' long stick
shipped, so unless you were able to go pick up a full length leading
edge piece, you'd need to get a replacement shipped as 8+4. I can
easily imagine Kolb sending out that sort of thing to people that
goofed on original construction and needed to redo. I have a splice in
my rebuilt leading edge -- it seems very very solid. I put the two
rows of rivets toward the inside, and the one row of rivets on the
front will just get a piece of tape before covering. Believe me, I'm
not advocating hack airplane construction. I just think this is very
acceptable for strength and even as the builder, and if you should
notice the splice on the finished airplane, it wouldn't be much to
notice.
-Ben
--- Steve Kroll wrote:
>
> I recently brainfarted some serious damage into the leading edge of
> my
> wings. I have taken the wings home to work on and have uncovered
> them
> (man.....that was hard to do) to survey for damage.
>
> My questions are these.....
>
> (1.) Can I replace only a part of the leading edge tube or should I
> replace it all? Doing just the portion that is damaged would save me
> a
> lot of time drilling out rivits of course, but I want to make sure
> sleeving the leading edge spar will be strong enough. And, if
> sleeving
> the tube is ok, how long an area do I need to oversleeve the old
> tube?
>
> (2.) Do I need to oversize the new rivits I put into the areas where
> I
> drilled the old ones out?
> Thanks in advance to anyone who has the knowlege to answer these
> questions with some degree of certainty.
>
> Steve (sick about my wings) Kroll
> Mk2
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joel Reed" <flyingjoel(at)dejazzd.com> |
Hi Kolbers,
I'm one of the silent lurkers, monitoring the kolb email and
dreaming of my own Kolb, well that came true a week ago, I found a
Firestar for sale and bought it. My question is, it has a 377 engine
now turning a two blade IVO prop. What is the max rpm speed recommend
for the 377? When I bought it it had a 3 blade Ultraprop, which I
switched with my paraplane that had a three blade IVO prop. Thanks
Joel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: to splice or not to splice |
just my two cents. anyone who has ever refurbished one or built one from
scratch knows there is already a splice in the leading edge!!! if it is done
right, it is probably stronger than the original tube. Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
I have a brand new never-out-of-the-box 503 for sale. I decided on another
engine and am willing to sell it for a good price.
It's a 503DC with the E-box. This weighs 7# less than the C-box with a mag
end starter. It's a beautiful unit, never touched. All original covers are in
place and it is bolted to its pallet.
The engine itself lists at $4,147. I will part with it for $3,400. Exhaust is
included. (That's about the price of the B-box 503. The E-box is more robust,
quieter, and absorbs vibration better.)
I have "all the fixins" as a package: Rotax silencer, Rotax oil injection,
dual carbs jetted for the silencer, air filters, pump, pulse line, primer,
and engine instruments, (tach, dual EGT with senders, dual CHT with senders).
I will toss in throttle splitter as well. All this would run over $5,200 from
CPS. How about $3,900?
Please let me know if you are interested. Everything is in original boxes, so
it should be easy to ship.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: damaged wing |
I agree with Ben. A proper splice will be as strong as the original. I
think the rule book calls for a splice piece 3-4 times as long as the tube
dia being repaired. A 2" tube will need a 6 - 8" splice joint (mininum). Do
not cut the ends square. Cut them at an angle to avoid stress points in the
original tube. After the repair that leading edge tube is supported by the
ribs either side of it and they are supported by the 2 on either side of
them excetera excetera. Look at the big picture to determine where the
strength is needed. Only John can break a leading edge on a Kolb. Seeing a
few extra rivits under the fabric of a Kolb should not detract from its
appearance.
The rivets are designed to expand and fill up the holes so the drilled
out holes should not be a worry.
>
>I personally would feel free to splice the leading edge. IMHO, splices
>are about as strong as the rest of the tube, and the ribs are a big
>factor in taking up the loads on the LE tube anyway. The firestar
>drawings show how to do a splice -- referring to the trailing edge
>anyway, and that calls for a 6" long piece for the splice. I used a
>little longer, maybe 8 or 9" for comfort. 1/8" rivets will fill a
>slightly larger hole. I don't see why you would have any larger a hole
>tho, because the splice holes would all be new. BTW I would not
>rebuild anything where there were holes left without mated parts, i.e.,
>don't re-use material any ol place and think left over rivet holes are
>unimportant.
>
>Another factor, I assume it is difficult to get a 12' long stick
>shipped, so unless you were able to go pick up a full length leading
>edge piece, you'd need to get a replacement shipped as 8+4. I can
>easily imagine Kolb sending out that sort of thing to people that
>goofed on original construction and needed to redo. I have a splice in
>my rebuilt leading edge -- it seems very very solid. I put the two
>rows of rivets toward the inside, and the one row of rivets on the
>front will just get a piece of tape before covering. Believe me, I'm
>not advocating hack airplane construction. I just think this is very
>acceptable for strength and even as the builder, and if you should
>notice the splice on the finished airplane, it wouldn't be much to
>notice.
>-Ben
>
>--- Steve Kroll wrote:
> >
> > I recently brainfarted some serious damage into the leading edge of
> > my
> > wings. I have taken the wings home to work on and have uncovered
> > them
> > (man.....that was hard to do) to survey for damage.
> >
> > My questions are these.....
> >
> > (1.) Can I replace only a part of the leading edge tube or should I
> > replace it all? Doing just the portion that is damaged would save me
> > a
> > lot of time drilling out rivits of course, but I want to make sure
> > sleeving the leading edge spar will be strong enough. And, if
> > sleeving
> > the tube is ok, how long an area do I need to oversleeve the old
> > tube?
> >
> > (2.) Do I need to oversize the new rivits I put into the areas where
> > I
> > drilled the old ones out?
> > Thanks in advance to anyone who has the knowlege to answer these
> > questions with some degree of certainty.
> >
> > Steve (sick about my wings) Kroll
> > Mk2
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>=====
>http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I too was surprised when I received my renewal invoice from AVEMCO. Last
years's premium was $1,624 with $16,000 of hull coverage. This year they
want $2,189. My rate has gone up even though I now have over 160 hours on my
Mark III with no claims. $1,519 of the premium is for hull only. I am
thinkin or lowering the hull insurance, maybe by half.
JimMark III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: INSURANCE
>
> HELP.
> Just received a shocking insurance quote from Avemco for my Mark III
Extra.
> $ 3,732.- all risk, I million liability, $1000.- medical and $34,500 hull
> coverage.
> $ 2,093.- on ground only, including taxiing.
> $ 720.- 1 million liability only.
> There has to be much better deals out there.
> Would like to hear what everyone is paying and with what Insurance co.
> Thanks.
> Hans van Alphen.
> Mark III Extra.
> BMW powered.
> N100MX.
> Expecting D.A.R. inspection this week !!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Kolbers, within the cage area, behind the seat/bulkhead about midway up
is a welded thick wire shelf area. (MKIII) What was the purpose ?
--Also mystifying are the two steel titties or rods sticking fore and
aft , facing each other near the top.....just curious if maybe they are
actually useful for something????? --BB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: whassdis fo? |
Hey Bob,
Not sure what you mean by the wire shelf area - are you talking about the
three tabs behind the passenger seat for the battery?
The 1/4 inch tubes top center are for attaching an aluminum tube to so that
you can rivit the fabric for the bottom rear half of the gap seal - it's
described under "covering the cage"
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bean" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: whassdis fo?
>
> Kolbers, within the cage area, behind the seat/bulkhead about midway up
> is a welded thick wire shelf area. (MKIII) What was the purpose ?
> --Also mystifying are the two steel titties or rods sticking fore and
> aft , facing each other near the top.....just curious if maybe they are
> actually useful for something????? --BB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | yaesu antenna/circular pins? |
Anybody completed a remote antenna with a Yaesu?
Went to Radio Shack with the part number from Richard Pike's page on
antennas, but it wouldn't connect to my radio - the threads were wrong.
Also wondering what size ground plane to glue onto the bottom of the
cage fabric.
Also, I'm looking for circular pins for the hinges to hold the hinge
pins captive. Went to Leaf & Aircraft Spruce & Specialty, and about 3
hardware stores with no luck. I could use cotter pins, but would rather
have the circular pins if anybody knows where to get them. I'm going
this route instead of crimping the hinges so I have the option to
disassemble without drilling out the hinge rivits.
Thanks for your help.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: yaesu antenna/circular pins? |
You need to get an adapter for the Yaesu - Aircraft Spruce has it. PN
11-16957 YAESU SMA/BNC ANTENNA ADAPTER
You might be able to find something similar at Radio Shack or a ham
supplier. As for the clips - why not just use a loop of safety wire? I
crimped mine before I thought of that, but if I have to I'll just file off
the crimped bit of hinge material. Good luck.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: yaesu antenna/circular pins?
>
> Anybody completed a remote antenna with a Yaesu?
>
> Went to Radio Shack with the part number from Richard Pike's page on
> antennas, but it wouldn't connect to my radio - the threads were wrong.
> Also wondering what size ground plane to glue onto the bottom of the
> cage fabric.
>
> Also, I'm looking for circular pins for the hinges to hold the hinge
> pins captive. Went to Leaf & Aircraft Spruce & Specialty, and about 3
> hardware stores with no luck. I could use cotter pins, but would rather
> have the circular pins if anybody knows where to get them. I'm going
> this route instead of crimping the hinges so I have the option to
> disassemble without drilling out the hinge rivits.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Chris
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: yaesu antenna/circular pins? |
I could use cotter pins, but would rather
> have the circular pins if anybody knows where to get them. I'm going
> this route instead of crimping the hinges so I have the option to
> disassemble without drilling out the hinge rivits.
> Chris
Chris/Gang:
I crimp the end of my piano hinges. Use vise grips and just
enough adjustment to crimp a little, not all the way, like
squished.
To remove the pins after crimping, use a short piece of
piano hinge pin, grind a semi-point on one end, hold the pin
with vise grips (or fingers if you are really tough), and
tap right out. Once out far enough, grasp with vise grips
and pull or tap and pull out. BTW: Before installing the
hinge pins, bevel the ends a little to make the job or
removing a little easier.
I have won a few awards at OSH and S&F using this method.
Never got docked points for it.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Herb Gearheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
Jim --Guys
I have heard that the 911 tragedy and the ensuing insurance bill will have to
be spread broadly across all types of insurance inorder to preserve some
solvency in the industry. Look at other types of insurance to see if they have
jumped.
The thing to do I guess, is to carry liability and begin to build a fund for
repairs from the savings. Herb in Ky
Jim wrote:
>
> I too was surprised when I received my renewal invoice from AVEMCO. Last
> years's premium was $1,624 with $16,000 of hull coverage. This year they
> want $2,189. My rate has gone up even though I now have over 160 hours on my
> Mark III with no claims. $1,519 of the premium is for hull only. I am
> thinkin or lowering the hull insurance, maybe by half.
>
> JimMark III
> Charlotte, NC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: INSURANCE
>
> >
> > HELP.
> > Just received a shocking insurance quote from Avemco for my Mark III
> Extra.
> > $ 3,732.- all risk, I million liability, $1000.- medical and $34,500 hull
> > coverage.
> > $ 2,093.- on ground only, including taxiing.
> > $ 720.- 1 million liability only.
> > There has to be much better deals out there.
> > Would like to hear what everyone is paying and with what Insurance co.
> > Thanks.
> > Hans van Alphen.
> > Mark III Extra.
> > BMW powered.
> > N100MX.
> > Expecting D.A.R. inspection this week !!!
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | BRS Service Bulletin |
Has anyone else recieved a kit from BRS to check the rocket nozzle size? It
seems to basically involve inserting a drill bit onto the nozzle to see how
well it fits. The problem is, I am not looking forward to taking the thing
apart.
I apologize for the database website being down, it will be back in a couple
of days and I will make an announcement.
Thanks,
Kip Laurie
Firestar II
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
>
> Hi Kolbers,
> I'm one of the silent lurkers, monitoring the kolb email and
> dreaming of my own Kolb, well that came true a week ago, I found a
> Firestar for sale and bought it. My question is, it has a 377
> engine
> now turning a two blade IVO prop. What is the max rpm speed
> recommend
> for the 377? When I bought it it had a 3 blade Ultraprop, which I
> switched with my paraplane that had a three blade IVO prop. Thanks
> Joel
it
Joel,
When I had my 377 on my Firestar, I pitched the prop so I would get 6100
rpm in a 50 mph climb. The 447 is now pitched the same.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: whassdis fo? |
Could you describe the welded thick wire shelf?
Maybe my MKIII is missing something?
(Maybe I sawed it off years ago bcause I couldn't figure out what it was
for either, and now I just don't remember...?)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolbers, within the cage area, behind the seat/bulkhead about midway up
>is a welded thick wire shelf area. (MKIII) What was the purpose ?
>--Also mystifying are the two steel titties or rods sticking fore and
>aft , facing each other near the top.....just curious if maybe they are
>actually useful for something????? --BB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Hauck" <jimh474(at)nettally.com> |
Subject: | Re: whassdis fo? |
That rack is probably where the fuel tanks fits in.
Jim H
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: whassdis fo?
>
> Could you describe the welded thick wire shelf?
> Maybe my MKIII is missing something?
> (Maybe I sawed it off years ago bcause I couldn't figure out what it was
> for either, and now I just don't remember...?)
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >Kolbers, within the cage area, behind the seat/bulkhead about midway up
> >is a welded thick wire shelf area. (MKIII) What was the purpose ?
> >--Also mystifying are the two steel titties or rods sticking fore and
> >aft , facing each other near the top.....just curious if maybe they are
> >actually useful for something????? --BB
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: BRS Service Bulletin |
I did mine sunday. It took about 1 1/2 hrs. Mine had the good nozzel.
Paul Sasseville
Firestar II
----- Original Message -----
From: "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: BRS Service Bulletin
>
> Has anyone else recieved a kit from BRS to check the rocket nozzle size?
It
> seems to basically involve inserting a drill bit onto the nozzle to see
how
> well it fits. The problem is, I am not looking forward to taking the thing
> apart.
> I apologize for the database website being down, it will be back in a
couple
> of days and I will make an announcement.
> Thanks,
> Kip Laurie
> Firestar II
> Atlanta
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Richard, Chris and Jim, thanks... I took a jug and much to my surprise
it actually fit there. I was considering one or more of those fancy
boat tanks, but being lazy, maybe I'll stick with the two fives for now
if I can come up with a good topside equalization method. --BB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: damaged wing |
Ben,
On your splice, did you rivet around the circumference of the tube or
laterally lengthwise down side of it.
Comment for John:
As for shipping the tubing, I think you'll have as much problem shipping 8
foot as 12 foot, probably freight by truck. UPS will not do either last I
new. Kolb was shipping there inserted into strong cardboard tubes. Insure
it say aluminum tubing stock, don't say aircraft or they will charge you a
fortune. If you have a claim, you'll likely have to fight them either way.
jerryb
Did you
>
>I personally would feel free to splice the leading edge. IMHO, splices
>are about as strong as the rest of the tube, and the ribs are a big
>factor in taking up the loads on the LE tube anyway. The firestar
>drawings show how to do a splice -- referring to the trailing edge
>anyway, and that calls for a 6" long piece for the splice. I used a
>little longer, maybe 8 or 9" for comfort. 1/8" rivets will fill a
>slightly larger hole. I don't see why you would have any larger a hole
>tho, because the splice holes would all be new. BTW I would not
>rebuild anything where there were holes left without mated parts, i.e.,
>don't re-use material any ol place and think left over rivet holes are
>unimportant.
>
>Another factor, I assume it is difficult to get a 12' long stick
>shipped, so unless you were able to go pick up a full length leading
>edge piece, you'd need to get a replacement shipped as 8+4. I can
>easily imagine Kolb sending out that sort of thing to people that
>goofed on original construction and needed to redo. I have a splice in
>my rebuilt leading edge -- it seems very very solid. I put the two
>rows of rivets toward the inside, and the one row of rivets on the
>front will just get a piece of tape before covering. Believe me, I'm
>not advocating hack airplane construction. I just think this is very
>acceptable for strength and even as the builder, and if you should
>notice the splice on the finished airplane, it wouldn't be much to
>notice.
>-Ben
>
>--- Steve Kroll wrote:
> >
> > I recently brainfarted some serious damage into the leading edge of
> > my
> > wings. I have taken the wings home to work on and have uncovered
> > them
> > (man.....that was hard to do) to survey for damage.
> >
> > My questions are these.....
> >
> > (1.) Can I replace only a part of the leading edge tube or should I
> > replace it all? Doing just the portion that is damaged would save me
> > a
> > lot of time drilling out rivits of course, but I want to make sure
> > sleeving the leading edge spar will be strong enough. And, if
> > sleeving
> > the tube is ok, how long an area do I need to oversleeve the old
> > tube?
> >
> > (2.) Do I need to oversize the new rivits I put into the areas where
> > I
> > drilled the old ones out?
> > Thanks in advance to anyone who has the knowlege to answer these
> > questions with some degree of certainty.
> >
> > Steve (sick about my wings) Kroll
> > Mk2
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>=====
>http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: damaged wing |
In a message dated 1/29/02 10:21:09 AM Eastern Standard Time,
duesouth(at)iname.com writes:
>
>
>
> I agree with Ben. A proper splice will be as strong as the original. I
> think the rule book calls for a splice piece 3-4 times as long as the tube
> dia being repaired. A 2" tube will need a 6 - 8" splice joint (mininum). Do
>
> not cut the ends square. Cut them at an angle to avoid stress points in the
>
> original tube. After the repair that leading edge tube is supported by the
> ribs either side of it and they are supported by the 2 on either side of
> them excetera excetera. Look at the big picture to determine where the
> strength is needed. Only John can break a leading edge on a Kolb. Seeing a
> few extra rivits under the fabric of a Kolb should not detract from its
> appearance.
> The rivets are designed to expand and fill up the holes so the drilled
> out holes should not be a worry.
>
>
This is more of a test than a response as I sent a response to this topic a
few days ago and never saw it on the list, but yes, the splice is stronger
than the parent tubing around it and I proved it.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Be careful switching props. You can seize an engine very easy doing that
if you have it under loaded (under propped). What the one you put the
2-blade on. Do a tied down test run, if it approaches within 300 RPM of
max RPM rating you will likely need to crank in more pitch.
CPS's Care and Feeding of the Rotax Motor Part 38 has listed for the 377 a
ground static RPM of 6250. The only thing I could find on the web was
7000 RPM for maximum RPM. If you use 6800 RPM as max, as the 447 is rated,
you should be safe.
Any one have a manual out there you can confirm the 377 max RPM figure.
jerryb
>
>Hi Kolbers,
> I'm one of the silent lurkers, monitoring the kolb email and
>dreaming of my own Kolb, well that came true a week ago, I found a
>Firestar for sale and bought it. My question is, it has a 377 engine
>now turning a two blade IVO prop. What is the max rpm speed recommend
>for the 377? When I bought it it had a 3 blade Ultraprop, which I
>switched with my paraplane that had a three blade IVO prop. Thanks
> Joel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: damaged wing |
I made my splice just as prescribed in the Original Kolb drawings,
except that I made them about 8" long instead of 6". I would
definetely NOT put rivets around a tube axially -- that would create a
weak point thru the splice itself, parallel to the cut ends of the tube
being spliced.
I'll attempt a splice description for those flyers that might not have
access to the Kolb drawings -- feel free to write me for further
clarification. Here goes...
A splice is made by taking a piece of the same tubing stock as the
piece needing to be spliced. For the trailing edge and the aileron
leading edge tubes of the FS, the drawings call for a 6" long piece of
splice tubing. Cut a length-wise gap in the 6" splice piece. From
memory, this gap needs to be about 3/16" wide. The goal is to have a
gap just the right size so that the gap will almost very nearly close
when the splice is pushed inside the tube ends being spliced. For
simplicity, I tried a 1" fake splice piece that was easier to cut and
file, in order to find the right size gap for the real splice piece.
OK, anywho, push the splice into the two ends being spliced -- do
something smart to make sure you have pretty much equal amounts of
splice into the two sections. Orient the splice piece axially so that
its length-wise gap (now mostly closed) is toward the inside of the
wing (or aileron), and make a mark on the outside of the tube where
that closed gap is.
Drill and rivet three length-wise rows of rivets through the main tube
into the splice, with 1/2" rivet spacing. Two of the rows, say about
1/2" apart, run along either side of the mark you just made. The third
row goes length-wise on the opposite side of the tubing -- this would
be the row that shows on the front of the leading edge.
Aren't drawings nice? :)
-Ben
--- jerryb wrote:
>
> Ben,
> On your splice, did you rivet around the circumference of the tube or
>
> laterally lengthwise down side of it.
>
> Comment for John:
> As for shipping the tubing, I think you'll have as much problem
> shipping 8
> foot as 12 foot, probably freight by truck. UPS will not do either
> last I
> new. Kolb was shipping there inserted into strong cardboard tubes.
> Insure
> it say aluminum tubing stock, don't say aircraft or they will charge
> you a
> fortune. If you have a claim, you'll likely have to fight them
> either way.
> jerryb
>
> Did you
>
> >
> >I personally would feel free to splice the leading edge. IMHO,
> splices
> >are about as strong as the rest of the tube, and the ribs are a big
> >factor in taking up the loads on the LE tube anyway. The firestar
> >drawings show how to do a splice -- referring to the trailing edge
> >anyway, and that calls for a 6" long piece for the splice. I used a
> >little longer, maybe 8 or 9" for comfort. 1/8" rivets will fill a
> >slightly larger hole. I don't see why you would have any larger a
> hole
> >tho, because the splice holes would all be new. BTW I would not
> >rebuild anything where there were holes left without mated parts,
> i.e.,
> >don't re-use material any ol place and think left over rivet holes
> are
> >unimportant.
> >
> >Another factor, I assume it is difficult to get a 12' long stick
> >shipped, so unless you were able to go pick up a full length leading
> >edge piece, you'd need to get a replacement shipped as 8+4. I can
> >easily imagine Kolb sending out that sort of thing to people that
> >goofed on original construction and needed to redo. I have a splice
> in
> >my rebuilt leading edge -- it seems very very solid. I put the two
> >rows of rivets toward the inside, and the one row of rivets on the
> >front will just get a piece of tape before covering. Believe me,
> I'm
> >not advocating hack airplane construction. I just think this is
> very
> >acceptable for strength and even as the builder, and if you should
> >notice the splice on the finished airplane, it wouldn't be much to
> >notice.
> >-Ben
> >
> >--- Steve Kroll wrote:
>
> > >
> > > I recently brainfarted some serious damage into the leading edge
> of
> > > my
> > > wings. I have taken the wings home to work on and have uncovered
> > > them
> > > (man.....that was hard to do) to survey for damage.
> > >
> > > My questions are these.....
> > >
> > > (1.) Can I replace only a part of the leading edge tube or
> should I
> > > replace it all? Doing just the portion that is damaged would
> save me
> > > a
> > > lot of time drilling out rivits of course, but I want to make
> sure
> > > sleeving the leading edge spar will be strong enough. And, if
> > > sleeving
> > > the tube is ok, how long an area do I need to oversleeve the old
> > > tube?
> > >
> > > (2.) Do I need to oversize the new rivits I put into the areas
> where
> > > I
> > > drilled the old ones out?
> > > Thanks in advance to anyone who has the knowlege to answer
> these
> > > questions with some degree of certainty.
> > >
> > > Steve (sick about my wings) Kroll
> > > Mk2
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >=====
> >http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Subject: | Re: yaesu antenna |
>
>
>You need to get an adapter for the Yaesu - Aircraft Spruce has it. PN
>11-16957 YAESU SMA/BNC ANTENNA ADAPTER
>You might be able to find something similar at Radio Shack or a ham
>supplier.
Also at:
http://www.buxcommco.com/rfconns/rfconns.htm
part number TA7820, for $3.50 each
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lloyd McFarlane" <lrmcf(at)ix.netcom.com> |
My rocket nozzle checked ok! Instructions and parts kit were very good.
Lloyd McFarlane
FireStar II
Fullerton, CA
From: "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: BRS Service Bulletin
Has anyone else recieved a kit from BRS to check the rocket nozzle size?
It
seems to basically involve inserting a drill bit onto the nozzle to see
how
well it fits. The problem is, I am not looking forward to taking the
thing
apart.
I apologize for the database website being down, it will be back in a
couple
of days and I will make an announcement.
Thanks,
Kip Laurie
Firestar II
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: circular pins? |
I drilled small holes in the ends of each of my hinges and put safety
wire through the holes and twisted. The safety wires keep the hinge pins
in the hinges, is easy to preflight, the price is right, and can be
removed easily. Works well for me.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> sudlow77(at)earthlink.net 01/29/02 06:12PM >>>
Also, I'm looking for circular pins for the hinges to hold the hinge
pins captive. Went to Leaf & Aircraft Spruce & Specialty, and about 3
hardware stores with no luck. I could use cotter pins, but would
rather
have the circular pins if anybody knows where to get them. I'm going
this route instead of crimping the hinges so I have the option to
disassemble without drilling out the hinge rivits.
Thanks for your help.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeffrey Jones" <jeffrey.jones(at)interactivetechnologies.com> |
Looking to replace the aging Lord mounts. Any one have the source/part
number for the mount on the Ultra Star w/Cuyuna engine? Thanks
Jeff Jones
Burlington KY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Subject: | Re: yaesu antenna/circular pins? |
on 1-29-02, "Chris Sudlow" wrote:
< Also wondering what size ground plane to glue onto the bottom of the
cage fabric. >
Chris, and other Kolb radio users -
Your ground plane must be matched to the antenna length to get optimum
performance from your antenna. The easy answer is, the ground plane should
be at least as wide as the antenna is long. On a spam can (metal-skin)
airplane, you can attach a com antenna almost anywhere and get decent radio
performance. For our fabric covered planes, we need to either install a
ground plane, or use some sheet metal part on the airplane for a ground
plane (builders have used the fuel tank pan, floor pan, etc.)
So the question becomes, "What length should my antenna be?"
The answer to that is: From 19.5 inches to 27.5 inches long.
Basic antenna theory tells us that the "ideal" antenna length should be
one-quarter the wavelength of the signal it's receiving (or transmitting).
The radio frequency range we use in general aviation is 108 to 136
megahertz.
Without going thru the gory details of the formula and math, it turns out
that 19.5 inches is "ideal" for 108 MHz, and 27.5 inches corresponds to 136
MHz, and it's linear for the frequencies in between. The antenna will work
with the other frequencies in its vicinity, but works best for the radio
frequency it's tuned for.
I'm using an antenna 23.5 inches long, to match the 122.8 MHz frequency I
anticipate I'll use the most. My ground plane is a hexagonal shaped piece
of .020 alum, made from flashing I bought at the hardware store. It's 2
feet across. I reinforced the center, where the BNC bulkhead fitting goes
thru for attaching the antenna. I fitted the ground plane between the two
bottom longerons of my Mark-3 cage before covering, and now it's glued to
the bottom fabric.
Long answer, I know. But I hope it helps!
Dennis Kirby
Mk-3, almost ready for taxi tests
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Benson" <jimben(at)clear.lakes.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: INSURANCE
>
> I too was surprised when I received my renewal invoice from AVEMCO. Last
> years's premium was $1,624 with $16,000 of hull coverage. This year they
> want $2,189. My rate has gone up even though I now have over 160 hours on
my
> Mark III with no claims. $1,519 of the premium is for hull only. I am
> thinkin or lowering the hull insurance, maybe by half.
>
> JimMark III
> Charlotte, NC
>
Jim: One thing you should have in mind when considering cutting your hull
coverage in half is that if you have an accident that the insurance
considers a "total" they will then pay you that reduced amount, ie. $8000,
but then they get the salvage and most insurance companies don't allow you
to remove anything before they claim ownership. Some insurance companies
will then allow you to purchase the salvage, but if they consider the
salvage value at $4000 for a $16000 plane you will end up with only $4000.
These figures are only examples, but you can see what happens if you
underinsure. Most often you are better to be overinsured. Check these
things out first.
Jim Benson, Mark III
Glencoe, MN
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: INSURANCE
>
>
> >
> > HELP.
> > Just received a shocking insurance quote from Avemco for my Mark III
> Extra.
> > $ 3,732.- all risk, I million liability, $1000.- medical and $34,500
hull
> > coverage.
> > $ 2,093.- on ground only, including taxiing.
> > $ 720.- 1 million liability only.
> > There has to be much better deals out there.
> > Would like to hear what everyone is paying and with what Insurance co.
> > Thanks.
> > Hans van Alphen.
> > Mark III Extra.
> > BMW powered.
> > N100MX.
> > Expecting D.A.R. inspection this week !!!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "chris davis" <scrounge(at)mediaone.net> |
Subject: | Re: damaged wing |
Steve,on may unintentional "first flight" a high speed "taxi" that went out
of control , I took out tje wing tip and bent the LE tube 3feet from the end
,I took the wing off threw it in my pick up ,took it home cut out the bend
which was only about 4 inches and put a stepped sleve inside riveted it back
together and recovered the wing tip that was in 1992 almost 500 hrs ago
never thought about it after the first 10 hrs or so .just my 2cents .
chris kxp 503
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Kroll <skroll(at)dellepro.com>
Date: Monday, January 28, 2002 5:44 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: damaged wing
>
>I recently brainfarted some serious damage into the leading edge of my
>wings. I have taken the wings home to work on and have uncovered them
>(man.....that was hard to do) to survey for damage.
>
>My questions are these.....
>
>(1.) Can I replace only a part of the leading edge tube or should I
>replace it all? Doing just the portion that is damaged would save me a
>lot of time drilling out rivits of course, but I want to make sure
>sleeving the leading edge spar will be strong enough. And, if sleeving
>the tube is ok, how long an area do I need to oversleeve the old tube?
>
>(2.) Do I need to oversize the new rivits I put into the areas where I
>drilled the old ones out?
> Thanks in advance to anyone who has the knowlege to answer these
>questions with some degree of certainty.
>
> Steve (sick about my wings) Kroll
> Mk2
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 01/28/02 |
Question on aileron gap seal. Does it matter whether the gap seal tape is
placed on the top or the bottom of the wing.
For information. Staples does not stock the 3M 845 tape but can get it in
1.5" and 4" widths and can get it in two to three days. They even delivered
it to my door and waived the shipping.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeffrey Jones" <jeffrey.jones(at)interactivetechnologies.com> |
Just thought I would share some info. After probing the internet... I found
the info for the mounts used on my engine mounting. Lord Corporation has a
PDF file you can open and it shares a wealth of information pertaining to
isolators. Found the ones I needed in the industrial section verses the
aerospace. This web site also contains formulas, vibration and shock theory
to figure the proper mount.
The Ultra Star isolator 200PD-45 cost $8.32.
Here some of the distributors for Lord:
Western Rubber at 800-969-0998, Mid-Atlantic at 800-536-1620, or RPM
Mechanical at 888-842-5668.
The engineer I spoke with at Lord mentioned their product is used by Rotax
users.
http://www.lord.com
http://www.lordmpd.com/pdf/plateformIP.pdf
Jeff Jones
Burlington KY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Book Binding Tape |
I was just in a Staples today looking for Book Binding Tape. First they
told me they didn't sell it all, then when I found it in their catalog they
told me I would have to order it. Cost of tape $6, shipping $7.50. They
would not ship it to the store. Apparently your store is more customer
oriented than in Dallas area.
Decided to try Office Depot - Bingo - they don't stock in the store but in
Dallas if ordered by the store before 5 PM they could have it by 5 PM the
next day. They would ship to the store for no charge. Width sizes
available 1-1/2", 2". 3", & 4". Their prices were much better than Staples
also.
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | What ever happened to Ray Baker? |
Hi everybody!
What ever happened to Ray Baker??
Last message I saw on the list here, he was finishing up his Mk III, and
that was about 3 months ago...
You cant just fall off the list here and not get noticed... at least by me!
Ray??
Jon
near Green Bay
(dreaming about converting the 'ol overweight FS to a genuine Sport Pilot
Plane!)
-----------------------
www.joncroke.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Feldmann, Stephen" <feldmann(at)phxhs.k12.az.us> |
I would like to know what the Lord part # is for the motor mounts used on
the Firestar II; does someone have that part number? I have asked around
but have not found the #, and the Lord part listing does not say "for use on
the FSII"!!. Thanks.
Stephen Feldmann
Glendale, AZ 400 hrs build time into the FSII (& counting)
____
Subject: Kolb-List: Lord mounts
Just thought I would share some info. After probing the internet... I found
the info for the mounts used on my engine mounting....
-----snip-----
The Ultra Star isolator 200PD-45 cost $8.32.
.....some of the distributors for Lord:
Western Rubber at 800-969-0998, Mid-Atlantic at 800-536-1620, or RPM
Mechanical at 888-842-5668.
http://www.lord.com
http://www.lordmpd.com/pdf/plateformIP.pdf
Jeff Jones
Burlington KY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clive Hatcher" <clive_hatcher(at)lineone.net> |
Group,
As I understand it, the worst condition for carb
icing is about 40F and 60%+ humidity, below 20F at
cruise power the chances if carb icing are less
due to the fact that the air at that temperature
cannot hold so much water. Below zero F the
possibility of icing is practically non existent
at any relative humidity - but so am I.
Clive Hatcher Mk III / 582 UK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On
Behalf Of
ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Subject: Kolb-List: carb ice
Group,
>>The temps were 29F with 85% humidity. The engine
did not quit, but if I
were on a cross country trip, I would have looked
for a good place to
land and let the engine heat thaw the carb out. If
the temps were very
cold, I don't think this would have worked. This
is one reason why I
don't fly below 20F, but then I may not have seen
carb icing at that
temperature.>>
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JaGifford(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 01/30/02 |
In a message dated 1/31/02 1:54:02 AM Central Standard Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<<
>>
RE: BSR inspection. I got the notification & kit. It is for the BSR-5
T2-300 rocket assemblies. The booklet was very thorough, good illustrations
and walked through the process. It's a little intimating, taking apart and
handling the rocket assembly, but by following the directions, it was a piece
of cake! One item to watch for is the reassembly, the directions don't
specify how to make sure the "rip cord" reattaches to the rocket. On my
first try to reattach, I missed the lock screw that attaches the cord to the
rocket. It's easy to check by lightly tugging on the cord at the rocket
base. I would not recomment yanking the handle - it could fire off the
rocket!!
Jack Gifford, FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Book Binding Tape |
Being the tight wad builder that I am I found an even cheaper, good
looking and longer lasting way of doing the gap seals. 10 years and no
problems yet.
They would ship to the store for no charge. Width sizes
>available 1-1/2", 2". 3", & 4". Their prices were much better than Staples
>also.
>jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Book Binding Tape |
> Being the tight wad builder that I am I found an even cheaper, good
> looking and longer lasting way of doing the gap seals. 10 years and no
> problems yet.
which would be ????
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Book Binding Tape |
I used the clear bookbinding tape on my elevator gap seals with two results. 1/
The gap seals made a significant difference in control and reduced drag. 2/
Dirt grass etc accumulated under the tape at the edge of adhesion and looks bad
on my nice white paint job. I have seen the problem solved by the use of "vinyl
decorating tape". Using a strip of white 2" wide tape with a strip of 1" laid
adhesive-to-adhesive down it's center the finished product looked perfect.
Durability may be a problem but the plane I saw had had six months of hard duty
when I saw it and it still looked
great. My dirty bookbinding has some cloth filaments that should make it
last very well so I hate to take it off. Maybe I should just paint it and enjoy
flying :).
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN007, 115 Hrs and a Mk3/912
in the workshop.
----- Original Message -----
From: Woody
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Book Binding Tape
Being the tight wad builder that I am I found an even cheaper, good
looking and longer lasting way of doing the gap seals. 10 years and no
problems yet.
They would ship to the store for no charge. Width sizes
>available 1-1/2", 2". 3", & 4". Their prices were much better than Staples
>also.
>jerryb
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Book Binding Tape |
>
>
> > Being the tight wad builder that I am I found an even cheaper, good
> > looking and longer lasting way of doing the gap seals. 10 years and no
> > problems yet.
>
>which would be ????
As much as I hate to admit it I went by the book this time. I used 3"
reenforcing tape as used on the rest of the plane. If none is available
then you just cut some strips out of scrap material. You should have four
such long strips to do the job after the wing is covered. Way more than enough.
Just lay it on the bottom side of the wing and aileron with the aileron
or flap in the fully extended position and stick the fabric on with poly
brush. Then paint. It took less than an hour to do all my gaps including
the elevators. I do have a bit of problem with my paint peeling in that
area of my twinstar but that is more of a problem with how I put the paint
on rather than flexibility. The peeled paint can be folded over creased and
then straightened out again. Once again the easy solution is the best. IMHO
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Darrell Bailey" <dbailey5033(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | UltraStar Plans and Documentation |
I was wondering if anyone has or has access to the documentation (i.e.
Owner's Manual, Plans, etc.) for a Kolb UltraStar. The New Kolb Aircraft
Co. told me to inquire on this page. Any feedback would be greatly
appreciated.
I would also like to get feedback on how an UltraStar flies, overall
performance, and such. I have recently purchased an UltraStar, and I am
wondering what sort of things need to be checked to deem the plane flight
worthy.
Thanks Again..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Book Binding Tape |
That was a teaser and you bit!
>
>
> > Being the tight wad builder that I am I found an even cheaper, good
> > looking and longer lasting way of doing the gap seals. 10 years and no
> > problems yet.
>
>which would be ????
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Book Binding Tape |
On our FireFly we used the 1" on 2" method only we used the "expensive"
white automotive trim tape. It's been on since Dec. 97 and we've had to
replace one piece which cracked due to the installation. So far its held
up well.
jerryb
>
>I used the clear bookbinding tape on my elevator gap seals with two resu>lts.
1/ The gap seals made a significant difference in control and reduce>d drag.
2/ Dirt grass etc accumulated under the tape at the edge of adhes>ion and looks
bad on my nice white paint job. I have seen the problem sol>ved by the use of
"vinyl decorating tape". Using a strip of white 2" wide> tape with a strip
of 1" laid adhesive-to-adhesive down it's center the f>inished product looked
perfect. Durability may be a problem but the plane> I saw had had six months
of hard duty when I saw it and it still looked
>great. My dirty bookbinding has some cloth filaments that should make it
>last very well so I hate to take it off. Maybe I should just paint it and> enjoy
flying :).
>
>Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN007, 115 Hrs and a Mk3/912
>in the workshop.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Woody
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Book Binding Tape
>
>
> Being the tight wad builder that I am I found an even cheaper, goo>d
>looking and longer lasting way of doing the gap seals. 10 years and no
>problems yet.
>
>
>They would ship to the store for no charge. Width sizes
> >available 1-1/2", 2". 3", & 4". Their prices were much better than Stap>les
> >also.
> >jerryb
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: yaesu antenna/circular pins? |
You might be able to find them at a boating store that deals in sailboat
equipment. I found some at a local Boaters World store.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net> |
Subject: | Re: UltraStar Plans and Documentation |
Hi Darrel
I have plans and most other info that you may need I would be happy to
share the info with you just let me know if you still need the info.
the ultrastar is a good flying plane I find that after take off just keep
it level and it climbs out like your on a elevator I hold about 55 mph. I
make my landings a little on the fast side about 50-55 mph I fly the plane
right down to the ground and make a wheel landing. haven't had a bent
landing gear in 16 months my airplane weighs much more then yours so these
take off and landing speeds my be a little lower for you. on your first
flight it is much better to be a little fast then slow. as far as what to
look for be for flying your ultrastar,cracks around welds or on tubing
elevator and rudder cables rubbing on anything. and condition of cables
check all hoses and replace if they are hard or yellow colored No
just replace all hoses there cheap have some one that fly's ultralights
help you inspect you plane if you replace any thing have that person recheck
it for you. its all common since. if you do not know find someone
that will help you. this list is full of people that will help any way they
can. if this is not your first ultralight disregard all of above as you all
ready know it.
Randy flying the soobydoo 5 hrs 45 mins for January
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darrell Bailey" <dbailey5033(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: UltraStar Plans and Documentation
>
> I was wondering if anyone has or has access to the documentation (i.e.
> Owner's Manual, Plans, etc.) for a Kolb UltraStar. The New Kolb Aircraft
> Co. told me to inquire on this page. Any feedback would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> I would also like to get feedback on how an UltraStar flies, overall
> performance, and such. I have recently purchased an UltraStar, and I am
> wondering what sort of things need to be checked to deem the plane flight
> worthy.
>
> Thanks Again..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Flycrazy8(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: UltraStar Plans and Documentation |
Hi Derrell,
I too have an "Ultrastar " and fly it with much delight too. My "Ultrastar" stalls
out around 30 mph so I always land it about 10 miles above stall. I find coming
in too hot on landing causes the chance for a big bounce on a landing if
you don't do it just right. I like to fly the Kolb to the ground and level out
two foot from the ground and slowly let off the power till she lighty touches.
Hey, it works for me.
Good and safe flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
I now have the Database updated (and back on line with a couple of new
additions). Please visit http://www.springeraviation.net/ to get in touch
with other builders and flyers.
Thanks,
Kip Laurie
Firestar II
Atlanta
(please Email me directly for changes and additions (dama(at)mindspring.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chuck Davis" <cdavis215(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Sport Pilot Proposal |
Now that the NPRM has been released, I'm surprised at the silence on the
list. Are so many people already private pilots and have their planes
registered that the Sport Pilot proposal is not relevent? Any thoughts from
the list?
Chuck Davis
FireFly # 028
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Roland Lambert" <marotod(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
Have a commercial instrument rating and I think the Sport Pilot rating will
be fantastic.Especially for those with minor medical problems and those of
us who don't care about going 200 mph.
Roland Lambert (Firestar)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Davis" <cdavis215(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Sport Pilot Proposal
>
> Now that the NPRM has been released, I'm surprised at the silence on the
> list. Are so many people already private pilots and have their planes
> registered that the Sport Pilot proposal is not relevent? Any thoughts
from
> the list?
>
> Chuck Davis
> FireFly # 028
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
>
> Now that the NPRM has been released, I'm surprised at the silence on
> the
> list. Are so many people already private pilots and have their
> planes
> registered that the Sport Pilot proposal is not relevent? Any
> thoughts from
> the list?
>
> Chuck Davis
> FireFly # 028
I knew it was coming and somewhat surprised that it is happening. I have
some concerns about the "repairman's certificate" they propose. With 80
hours of classroom training, just how many ultralight (light-sport
aircraft) pilots are going to follow through with this expensive
training. I've been repairing my Original Firestar for 15 years and
flying safely. I think if the plane is construction built as most
Firestar's are, the training should be waved except for the engine
rebuild. That could be sent in to an authorized Rotax repair center or
licensed mechanic.
Another concern I have with the airworthiness certificate is that my
Original Firestar may not be covered in a manufacturers FAA list because
TNK does not support them. Will I be able to fly my Firestar under this
light-sport aircraft category? What about a plans-built light plane?
I don't mind following through with the license if I don't have to take
training all over again, but the "repairman's certificate" is too much
and too expensive.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Has anyone been using Opti-2 oil? If so, what is your impression? I am
getting close to starting the Victor 1. Speedwing, who is the Simonini
distributor in North America recommends Amsoil, but since I have not have
good luck with Amsoil, I am looking for another oil.
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
Hi Ralph and everybody....!
I have been following the developments for a while and this is my
understanding (correct me if I am wrong!)
BTW, most of my info is taken from
http://www.sportpilot.org/nprm/aircraft_maint.html
Great summaries and explanations are found on these pages. Yes, this
assumes the NPRM doesnt change by the time it becomes 'law', so to speak.
> I knew it was coming and somewhat surprised that it is happening. I have
> some concerns about the "repairman's certificate" they propose. With 80
> hours of classroom training, just how many ultralight (light-sport
> aircraft) pilots are going to follow through with this expensive
> training. I've .
No, 16 hours of training is all that is required for EXPERIMENTAL light
sport aircraft (not SPECIAL)
from an FAA approved training facility! (whatever this is....probably not
at a community college...)
>
> Another concern I have with the airworthiness certificate is that my
> Original Firestar may not be covered in a manufacturers FAA list because
> TNK does not support them. Will I be able to fly my Firestar under this
> light-sport aircraft category? What about a plans-built light plane?
Dont think this is an issue AT ALL!.... any fat UL or two place that simply
falls within the limitations (and Firestars surely do!) can get an airworthy
certificate. (check that link for all of the 'rules'...e.g. 1232 lbs gross,
etc) None of that 51% stuff... that is for the original experimental
certificate that still exists.
I feel the pain (!) of the group that is getting 'burned' the most by this
new proposal: the UL instructors! While part 103 remains intact
(ultralight rules DONT change at all) there will be a phasing out of the
exemptions that allowed 2 place and training. There is no way with this
proposal to train true part 103 planes..... I guess its back to crow
hopping. Instructors have to become light CFIs..... much more
time/money/training compared to BFI training of today.
But all in all.... this is an exciting opportunity for many!
Jon
near Green Bay FS
------------------------------------
www.joncroke.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
> No, 16 hours of training is all that is required for EXPERIMENTAL
> light
> sport aircraft (not SPECIAL)
> from an FAA approved training facility! (whatever this
> is....probably not
> at a community college...)> Jon
> near Green Bay FS
It seems like 80 hours to me to get the "Repairmans Certificate" (see
below):
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
Maintenance-Special Light-Sport Aircraft
"To qualify for this new repairman certificate (light-sport aircraft)
with a maintenance rating, an applicant would need to complete an 80-hour
training course acceptable to the FAA in the maintenance requirements of
the category of light-sport aircraft intended to be maintained and
inspected. Privileges would be limited to tasks outlined in the
manufacturers instructions for continued airworthiness and the operating
limitations of the airworthiness certificate for the aircraft. Repairmen
with a maintenance rating would also be permitted to maintain and inspect
special light-sport aircraft other than their own. To perform a major
repair, the repairman would need to complete additional training
acceptable to the FAA appropriate to the repair being performed."
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
> It seems like 80 hours to me to get the "Repairmans Certificate" (see
> below):
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Maintenance-Special Light-Sport Aircraft
>
Hi Ralph,
You DO NOT want a SPECIAL light-sport aircraft.... that is for factory built
planes ready to fly...
You want EXPERIMENTAL light-sport aircraft....: this includes both
Maintenance and Inspection!
(16 hours training)
Jon
Inspection-Experimental Light-Sport Aircraft
It is for this aircraft category that FAA is establishing the second new
repairman certificate-repairman certificate (light-sport aircraft) with an
inspection rating. This repairman certificate would allow the owner of an
experimental light-sport aircraft to perform a condition inspection on his
or her own aircraft consistent with the manufacturer's instructions for
continued airworthiness. This privilege could not be extended to aircraft
not owned and operated by the holder of the repairman certificate. An
applicant for a repairman certificate (light-sport aircraft) with an
inspection rating would be required to complete a 16-hour training course
acceptable to the FAA on the inspection requirements of the particular make
and model intended to be inspected. As with the repairman with maintenance
rating, applicants would need to be at least 18 years of age, able to read,
write and speak the English language, and be a citizen of the United States.
Appropriately rated mechanics (A&Ps) and repair stations are also authorized
to perform condition inspections on experimental light-sport aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Roland Lambert" <marotod(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
I wonder if those of us that have an A&P will be exempt from the mtc.
training?
R.Lambert
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Sport Pilot Proposal
>
>
> > No, 16 hours of training is all that is required for EXPERIMENTAL
> > light
> > sport aircraft (not SPECIAL)
> > from an FAA approved training facility! (whatever this
> > is....probably not
> > at a community college...)> Jon
> > near Green Bay FS
>
> It seems like 80 hours to me to get the "Repairmans Certificate" (see
> below):
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
> 15 years flying it
>
> Maintenance-Special Light-Sport Aircraft
>
> "To qualify for this new repairman certificate (light-sport aircraft)
> with a maintenance rating, an applicant would need to complete an 80-hour
> training course acceptable to the FAA in the maintenance requirements of
> the category of light-sport aircraft intended to be maintained and
> inspected. Privileges would be limited to tasks outlined in the
> manufacturers instructions for continued airworthiness and the operating
> limitations of the airworthiness certificate for the aircraft. Repairmen
> with a maintenance rating would also be permitted to maintain and inspect
> special light-sport aircraft other than their own. To perform a major
> repair, the repairman would need to complete additional training
> acceptable to the FAA appropriate to the repair being performed."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
> You DO NOT want a SPECIAL light-sport aircraft.... that is for
> factory built
> planes ready to fly...
>
> You want EXPERIMENTAL light-sport aircraft....: this includes
> both
> Maintenance and Inspection!
> (16 hours training)
>
> Jon
Thanks Jon for clearing this up for me. Now I've learned something about
Sport Pilot (too lazy to read all that). What about us pilots who have
accrued many hours over the years. I still have to take a written test
and flight check, right? (I have a USUA certification and logbook). All
fat ultralights will be N-numbered, won't they? Personally, I would like
to see a "U-number" to distinguish us from bigger aircraft. Do you
really think the FAA will allow slow light-sport aircraft into controlled
airports?
Thanks,
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
Go to the UL List, it's real noisy there. It good to see flyers and
builder comments and questions here.
jerryb
>
>Now that the NPRM has been released, I'm surprised at the silence on the
>list. Are so many people already private pilots and have their planes
>registered that the Sport Pilot proposal is not relevent? Any thoughts from
>the list?
>
>Chuck Davis
>FireFly # 028
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Subject: | Sport Pilot Proposal |
Ralph,
They already do allow us into controlled airports. I keep my MKIII at a
controlled airport, LNS, and I try to stay with the flow by keeping my
pattern short and my speed up. When landing, I don't throttle back until
just short of the runway threshold, so my approach speed is 80 - 95 mph,
likely faster then some Cessna's. I try to touch down close to a taxiway so
I don't tie up the runway. On departure, if they are lined up to take off,
I will often make my turnout before the end of the runway so I'm out of the
way. Last week, the tower let me make a no delay take off with another
plane on final. The tower then asked me to start my turnout when I was only
about half way down the runway so the guy on final could do a go around if
needed which was fine since I was already at 900 ft. agl. One time the
tower had some big twin hold short, do not cross, of the runway I was taking
off which is normal, but by the time I got to the intersection where the
twin was holding short, I was at 1000 ft. The tower came back to the twin
and laughing said "Guess you really didn't need to hold short." Then we all
had a laugh. I have had a good time with the controllers, but I try to go
with the flow. I've heard the controllers get real frustrated with some GA
pilots who don't go with the flow and a couple of those pilots were asked to
call the tower on the phone ASAP.
Terry
Do you really think the FAA will allow slow light-sport aircraft into
controlled
airports?
Thanks,
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
>
> I wonder if those of us that have an A&P will be exempt from the mtc.
> training?
> R.Lambert
The very last sentence of that previous paragraph I think addresses this
question:
.........................................As with the repairman with
maintenance
rating, applicants would need to be at least 18 years of age, able to read,
write and speak the English language, and be a citizen of the United States.
Appropriately rated mechanics (A&Ps) and repair stations are also authorized
to perform condition inspections on experimental light-sport aircraft.
This is good, right!!??
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
> Thanks Jon for clearing this up for me. Now I've learned something about
> Sport Pilot (too lazy to read all that). What about us pilots who have
> accrued many hours over the years. I still have to take a written test
> and flight check, right?
I think this is the ultimate cost.... a written test and check ride.... so
one has to evaluate the cost/benefit decision and make a personal choice.
Good news... 103 stays the same, no rule changes there. But for people like
me that have always stretched the 103 rules (weight, fuel, etc) it does
provide a way to fly with a little more freedom from harassment.
>. Do you
> really think the FAA will allow slow light-sport aircraft into controlled
> airports?
Interesting that there will be no way to tell from registration (everyone is
N numbered) about this new certificate, and it seems definite from the FAA
that you WILL BE WELCOMED at airports! Now whether THIS is a good thing
(safe thing?) is another question I suppose.
Ralph, Im glad your asking these questions because I think there has been a
LOT of static about these *proposed* rules and a lot of misinformation. All
is subject to change, but, the NPRM mechanism is used by several angencies
of government (FCC also, for example) and usually there's a pretty good
chance that what we see now will be pretty close to eventual 'law', unless
something drastic occurs out there.
The other side of the coin is that it looks like we're going to lose the
affordable UL training we probably take for granted now. In the future (with
Sport Pilot) you will HAVE to get training from a real sport CFI, or do it
under the table with a pilot friend. I.E., no more BFI and 2 seat UL.... I
understand there is a 2 year grace period to phase out the existing 2 seat
UL exemptions used by BFIs today.
This IS going to be a big deal for all of us.... esp for the light plane
manufacturers.... also for the new SP instructors (???) and ultimately you
and me! I think if you check with any of the light plane manufactures (KOL
B) you find that sales are currently slow... as people wait to see where
this is all going. If I were KOLB, I would imagine things are going to look
GREAT in about 6 months if this becomes law as there *should* be a big
demand for legal, affordable small planes with half the training compared to
private pilot! OK Im off the soapbox .... for now!
Jon
-----------------------
www.kolbpilot.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
Hi All,
Terry's right, if we try to fit in and keep a heads-up, most tower ops
are no different for UL's, sport, GA, military, etc. The tower folks where
I'm based (PTK, Pontiac, MI) do an excellent job of noting how different
types are flown and fit them in accordingly. Everything from Quicksilvers
to Gulfstream V's. That includes a contingent of ultralights that go out
occasionally in a group of 4 or 5 (with at least one radio). If you feel
your tower folks don't do you right, try to educate them by taxiing up to
the tower and invite them down for a quick look-see. A little one-on-one
goes a long way.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Sport Pilot Proposal
>
> Ralph,
>
> They already do allow us into controlled airports. I keep my MKIII at a
> controlled airport, LNS, and I try to stay with the flow by keeping my
> pattern short and my speed up.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
Chuck,
I for one have been "busy" reading more than 280 (and have at least 76
more stacked unread in inbox) that have poured/gushed/ralphed onto the
net in another list--FLY-UL. Getting kinda tired because they seem to
harp on the same strings.
Bob N. FF070
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
Jack, i have been using opti-2 oil in my chain saws, 2-cycle outboard
motors, brush cutters , lawn mowers etc. for about 18 years but i have never
used it in my kolb, i think it is just as good as klotz or better but do not
want to go into R&D testing at this stage of the game.
as you maybe know it has german technology and it is made in canada. they
claim it reduces smoke, cooler running,shorter break-in, greater horsepower,
and extened engine life. it is a product of interlube international inc.
seattle, wa. their directions for mixing is 1.8 oz. per 1 gal. of gasoline.
don't know if i would try that ratio or not. let me know if you decide to use
it.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
kxp model
Jack & Louise Hart wrote:
>
> Has anyone been using Opti-2 oil? If so, what is your impression? I am
> getting close to starting the Victor 1. Speedwing, who is the Simonini
> distributor in North America recommends Amsoil, but since I have not have
> good luck with Amsoil, I am looking for another oil.
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Frustrated controllers |
Ah yes, I remember it well. About 12 years ago there was an instructor on
the field with an English accent and an attitude who did not really grasp
the "fit in" concept.
I had a Lear turning an 8 mile final and I turned the Cessna w/Limey
instructor on a close base to beat the Lear.
"Cessna 560, make short approach, best speed on final, no delays, cleared
touch and go Rwy 23."
Time passes...slowly. This ain't a'gonna work. Grabbed the field glasses
and the Cessna 152 is hovering on final with full flaps, hanging on the
prop, and the Lear is rapidly approaching cold-nose mode at his 6.
No problem. "Cessna 560, go around, turn left heading 120, climb and
maintain 3,200."
"Cessna 560 is clear of the traffic pattern, squawk 1200, and frequency
change approved."
"Uh, tower, this is Cessna 560, where are we going?"
"Cessna 560, I have no idea, but if you can't do what I tell you, you can't
stay in the pattern. Good Day."
The Supervisor thought it was funny, but not to make a habit of it.
It was a fun job.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Ralph,
>
>They already do allow us into controlled airports. I keep my MKIII at a
>controlled airport, LNS, and I try to stay with the flow by keeping my
>pattern short and my speed up. When landing, I don't throttle back until
>just short of the runway threshold, so my approach speed is 80 - 95 mph,
>likely faster then some Cessna's.
(Snip)
I've heard the controllers get real frustrated with some GA
>pilots who don't go with the flow and a couple of those pilots were asked to
>call the tower on the phone ASAP.
>
>Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net> |
> You want EXPERIMENTAL light-sport aircraft....: this includes both
> Maintenance and Inspection!
> (16 hours training)
Do they really think that a 16 hour training class will teach anything that
you wouldn't learn while building the plane? Or will you still be able to
get the repairman's certificate on an experimental you built? It makes no
sense to me to waste 16 hours of my life in a training class after building
the plane. My guess is that a large majority of the folks on this list
could probably teach this class.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Engine Instruments |
Kolbers--
My friend is installing a Rotax 582, which will have an electric starter
system, including battery, etc. His question is, does he need an ampmeter
and voltmeter? Is there any need to have either instrument? What are the
pros and cons.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar-Rotax 377
Audubon, NJ USA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Engine Instruments |
I only have a volt meter on the soobydoo it tells me how much voltage is in
the battery before I start my engine and how much voltage is going to the
battery after engine start up And if you lose your alternator you can watch
your voltage so that you can make a landing before the motor stops.as I have
a automotive ignition system that needs about 6 volts or more to operate. a
amp meter will only tell you how many amps are being put in to the battery
Hope this helps
Randy Flying the soobydoo
----- Original Message -----
From: <WVarnes(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Engine Instruments
>
> Kolbers--
>
> My friend is installing a Rotax 582, which will have an electric starter
> system, including battery, etc. His question is, does he need an ampmeter
> and voltmeter? Is there any need to have either instrument? What are
the
> pros and cons.
>
>
> Bill Varnes
> Original FireStar-Rotax 377
> Audubon, NJ USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
The thread on voltmeters got me to thinking....................believe
it or not. When I bought the ammeter for Vamoose, it came with a
"shunt." Never heard of such a thing, but it was there, along with the
instructions for installing it. Sooooo...............in a
nutshell...............power comes from the battery, thru the start
relay, thru the shunt, and on to the main bus, and ammeter. Charging
power comes from the alternator, down to the battery. If I turn on a
fuel pump, ammeter shows draw of ~6 amps. ( Remember, these are high
pressure fuel injection pumps.) Turn on pump #2, draw increases to ~12
amps. Turn on the tail strobe, and it increases a bit more. So, it's
apparently accurate so far. At this point, the voltmeter will show
something in the area of 12 volts, or so. Start the engine, and the
voltmeter will jump to nearly 16 volts, but the ammeter stays at -12
amps.................shows no charge, tho' the voltage is up. Triple
checked the wiring, and it's true to the diagram. Haven't run it enuf
to see if the battery takes a charge or not, but maybe someone will have
some ideas on this discrepancy ???????
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Volts & Amps |
Made a boo-boo in there...................power comes from the battery, thru
the MASTER relay, then thru the shunt. Below, I said it went thru the start
relay. Please disregard that, it's a whole separate circuit.
Messed Up Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Volts & Amps
>
> The thread on voltmeters got me to thinking....................believe
> it or not. When I bought the ammeter for Vamoose, it came with a
> "shunt." Never heard of such a thing, but it was there, along with the
> instructions for installing it. Sooooo...............in a
> nutshell...............power comes from the battery, thru the start
> relay, thru the shunt, and on to the main bus, and ammeter. Charging
> power comes from the alternator, down to the battery. If I turn on a
> fuel pump, ammeter shows draw of ~6 amps. ( Remember, these are high
> pressure fuel injection pumps.) Turn on pump #2, draw increases to ~12
> amps. Turn on the tail strobe, and it increases a bit more. So, it's
> apparently accurate so far. At this point, the voltmeter will show
> something in the area of 12 volts, or so. Start the engine, and the
> voltmeter will jump to nearly 16 volts, but the ammeter stays at -12
> amps.................shows no charge, tho' the voltage is up. Triple
> checked the wiring, and it's true to the diagram. Haven't run it enuf
> to see if the battery takes a charge or not, but maybe someone will have
> some ideas on this discrepancy ???????
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Engine Instruments |
Not sure without looking, but I think if you equip and go for night VFR,
you will need the voltmeter. I have found the voltmeter more useful than an
ampmeter.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolbers--
>
>My friend is installing a Rotax 582, which will have an electric starter
>system, including battery, etc. His question is, does he need an ampmeter
>and voltmeter? Is there any need to have either instrument? What are the
>pros and cons.
>
>
>Bill Varnes
>Original FireStar-Rotax 377
>Audubon, NJ USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Proposal |
Do you
really think the FAA will allow slow light-sport aircraft into controlled
airports?
I often fly into controlled airspace in my N numbered Mark III and have not
had any problems.
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Sport Pilot Proposal
>
> > You DO NOT want a SPECIAL light-sport aircraft.... that is for
> > factory built
> > planes ready to fly...
> >
> > You want EXPERIMENTAL light-sport aircraft....: this includes
> > both
> > Maintenance and Inspection!
> > (16 hours training)
> >
> > Jon
>
> Thanks Jon for clearing this up for me. Now I've learned something about
> Sport Pilot (too lazy to read all that). What about us pilots who have
> accrued many hours over the years. I still have to take a written test
> and flight check, right? (I have a USUA certification and logbook). All
> fat ultralights will be N-numbered, won't they? Personally, I would like
> to see a "U-number" to distinguish us from bigger aircraft. Do you
> really think the FAA will allow slow light-sport aircraft into controlled
> airports?
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
> 15 years flying it
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Volts & Amps
> Made a boo-boo in there...................power comes from the battery,
thru
> the MASTER relay, then thru the shunt. Below, I said it went thru the
start
> relay. Please disregard that, it's a whole separate circuit.
> Messed Up Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
> To: "Kolb"
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 12:06 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Volts & Amps
>
>
> >
> > The thread on voltmeters got me to thinking....................believe
> > it or not. When I bought the ammeter for Vamoose, it came with a
> > "shunt." Never heard of such a thing, but it was there, along with the
> > instructions for installing it. Sooooo...............in a
> > nutshell...............power comes from the battery, thru the start
> > relay, thru the shunt, and on to the main bus, and ammeter. Charging
> > power comes from the alternator, down to the battery. If I turn on a
> > fuel pump, ammeter shows draw of ~6 amps. ( Remember, these are high
> > pressure fuel injection pumps.) Turn on pump #2, draw increases to ~12
> > amps. Turn on the tail strobe, and it increases a bit more. So, it's
> > apparently accurate so far. At this point, the voltmeter will show
> > something in the area of 12 volts, or so. Start the engine, and the
> > voltmeter will jump to nearly 16 volts, but the ammeter stays at -12
> > amps.................shows no charge, tho' the voltage is up. Triple
> > checked the wiring, and it's true to the diagram. Haven't run it enuf
> > to see if the battery takes a charge or not, but maybe someone will have
> > some ideas on this discrepancy ???????
> >
> > Larry Bourne
> > Palm Springs, Ca.
> > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> > http://www.gogittum.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | VW Engine Update |
In some of my past posts I talked about RPM ranges were I was getting vibrations.
In discussions with Gene & Larry Smith , the builder of my reduction drive
it was determined that I had a poorly cut large sprocket. The sprocket has been
replaced (no charge) and it appears that the vibrations are gone. I haven't
had a chance to fly yet with the new sprocket but I think the noise level is
reduced also.
What a difference a week makes last Monday it was 65 degrees and calm today in
Michigan it is 20 degrees and blowing.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII classic
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 447 & Bing Enrichment Valve Spring |
Jack,
If you look at a parts list for the 36mm Bing carb, there are two different
springs listed, one for manual choke and a different one for remote
choke. Perhaps this is why the different spring. Question is which is
which or is the one on your Victor even some different again.
jerryb
do archive
>
>Just a note. I have had trouble with my 447 loading up at low engine
>speeds, such as, taxiing out to the runway or holding for another plane to
>land or take off. Since I have only taxiing brakes, I can not effectively
>run the engine up except on the take off roll. Several times it has taken
>almost 600 feet to get it to unload and for the engine to spool up. By
>accident, I have found the cause.
>
>I put a fuel flow meter on the FireFly to try and figure out how to get
>better fuel economy on cross countries. This week as I was taxiing out to
>the runway, I noticed that the fuel flow was higher with the throttle
>almost closed as compared to the 3000 to 4000 rpm range. I thought about
>it some, and I realized that if the fuel enrichment valve spring was too
>weak, the high vacuum in the intake manifold at closed throttle could lift
>the valve off the seat. Since I am getting a Victor 1 ready to mount on
>the FireFly and this engine uses the same carburetor, I removed the
>enrichment valve spring and took it with me to the airport. I compared
>this spring with the one on the 447. Sure enough, the spring on the 447
>was a much lighter spring. I checked the Rotax site for updates, and I
>found nothing that mentioned this spring had been changed.
>
>So if you have an older 447, mine is four years old, and if your engine is
>loading up on you when it is running at idle or low speeds, you may want to
>purchase a new Bing enrichment valve spring. It could make an important
>difference on a short or soft field take off.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Anderson" <janderson3(at)nc.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: UltraStar Plans and Documentation |
Any exposed rivet should be firmly down - if paint on top the paint should
not be cracked around the rivet. Fabric on the wings should be drum tight,
but not tight enough to distort the leading or trailing edges. Control
cables should be tight enough that controls move with the slightest input -
but not so tight as to wear out the pulleys. Just go over it and get a
general feel for it if it looks like it is held together with bailing wire
and tape on the outside - you don't even want to know whats inside the wing.
Next thing is how has the plane been used/abused and stored.
If it has been outside beware of the action of disimalar metals. The
Ultrastar is built from aluminum and held together with steel rivets, if it
has gotten wet or been stored outside all around those rivits are likely to
be corroded
With the plane setup grap a hold of the wing tips, and lift up and down,
front and back, and noticeable play? Inspect the vertical stabilizer, there
was a warning issued by Kolb the the welds in this area may break - inspect
closely and question any new paint directly on the weld. Grab the tail
surfaces and give them the shake test. Check the alerron hinges, are they
solid or loose, what about wear?
As far as flying, according to my ASI takeoff and land about 32 MPH. The
runway I fly from is 3000ft, I climb out at 45 and have 500 ft by the time I
get to the end. If I pull the nose up so I climb at 40, I have 1000ft by
the end of the runway. This is with 35hp cuyuna and votex generators -
search the list archive for more info on vg's. - I also posted some stuff on
flight characteristics.
I have the flight test article from 1984 Glider rider on the ultrastar,
email me direct if you like a copy. Also have the original letter sent out
by Kolb about Dennis Souder flight test to distruction.
John Anderson
*******************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darrell Bailey" <dbailey5033(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: UltraStar Plans and Documentation
>
> I was wondering if anyone has or has access to the documentation (i.e.
> Owner's Manual, Plans, etc.) for a Kolb UltraStar. The New Kolb Aircraft
> Co. told me to inquire on this page. Any feedback would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> I would also like to get feedback on how an UltraStar flies, overall
> performance, and such. I have recently purchased an UltraStar, and I am
> wondering what sort of things need to be checked to deem the plane flight
> worthy.
>
> Thanks Again..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Volts & Amps |
Larry,
Ever notice that many cars have a large and a smaller gage wire going to
the positive terminal of the battery or two at the battery side of the
starter solenoid.
The big cable goes to the Battery power side of the starter solenoid.
The small goes to the shunt, the output of the shunt would have two
connections, a wire to the alternator and a wire to the power bus for
supplying everything other than starter power.
The diagram below will show the amount of current being consumed minus what
the alternator is putting out. So say you alternator puts out 10 amps and
you have 15 amps of draw on the power bus, you'll see a minus 5 amp
discharge, if you had only 5 amp load, you and the alternator was carrying
the load, you would see 0 plus the charge current to the battery. Remember
when cars had amp gauges and when you turned on the ignition, the amp meter
would show a discharge, that's what you'll see if you turn on accessories
with out the engine running. Once you start you'll see the a charge rate
which will fall to 0 as the battery recharges so long as the alternators
output can match the load of the accessories. If the alternator output
can't keep up with the load demand or has failed, it will show a discharge
indicating the amount of power being drawn from the battery to power the
load on the accessory power bus.
** Note instead of the small wire connecting to the battery + terminal, it
could be connected to the battery side terminal of the starter solenoid
(where the big cable from the battery connects to the starter solenoid).
jerryb
In Out
Battery o=====B=Starter=S======>to Starter
+ Terminal
Solenoid
!----** see note below
!
+ ------S-Shunt-B--------------> Alternator output terminal
!
---------> Accessory Power Buss
>
>Made a boo-boo in there...................power comes from the battery, thru
>the MASTER relay, then thru the shunt. Below, I said it went thru the start
>relay. Please disregard that, it's a whole separate circuit.
>Messed Up Lar.
snip...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 447 & Bing Enrichment Valve Spring |
I replaced the enrichment spring with the heavier spring, and I no longer
have problems with the engine slowing or picking up (changing speeds) at
constant low throttle settings. I expected to see the fuel flow rate go
down too, but that was not the case. I played with the idle air screw and
I could influence the closed throttle fuel flow rate at speeds below 2000
rpm. If you lean it out on the idle air screw the gear box gets to
banging, so I put it back rich to favor the gear box.
I cut a butterfly valve assembly off of an old carburetor, and I made a
mount for it to fit on the muffler exhaust pipe. When the weather gives me
a warm day, I am going to see if exhaust back pressure will help to smooth
out the idle. An RC modeler gave me the idea.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Jack,
>If you look at a parts list for the 36mm Bing carb, there are two different
>springs listed, one for manual choke and a different one for remote
>choke. Perhaps this is why the different spring. Question is which is
>which or is the one on your Victor even some different again.
>jerryb
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Engine Instruments |
If he runs a Grand Rapids Technologies EIS (engine instrumentation system)
it has a volt meter in it. You can set min. and max voltage alerts. The
instrument also provides Tach, dual EGT and CHT and has aux. input for say
water temp. Check there web page at:
http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys/
These are great units and don't cost much more than buying the steam
gauges. You can also add OAT, Fuel Level, and options of Fuel Flow and
Altimeter.
With the volt meter you see if the charge voltage falls below some value
you preset, it does it will alert you buy indicating on the display and
flashing a very bright bid red light that comes with the unit. You'll see
it if it flashes I assure you. I don't feel an amp meter is necessary with
this unit especially if the engine operation is not dependant upon external
battery power. Try it you'll like it. We have two of them and I've sold
at least 3 others on our field on using it and everyone of them love it.
jerryb
(there is no better advertising than a satisfied customer)
>
>Kolbers--
>
>My friend is installing a Rotax 582, which will have an electric starter
>system, including battery, etc. His question is, does he need an ampmeter
>and voltmeter? Is there any need to have either instrument? What are the
>pros and cons.
>
>
>Bill Varnes
>Original FireStar-Rotax 377
>Audubon, NJ USA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: UltraStar Plans and Documentation |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
>
> Inspect the vertical stabilizer, there
> was a warning issued by Kolb the the welds in this area may break - inspect
> closely and question any new paint directly on the weld. Grab the tail
> surfaces and give them the shake test. Check the alerron hinges, are they
> solid or loose, what about wear?
The shake test is good, but will not always reveal a broken weld. When I
bought my Twinstar it felt tight. I even flew it for 10 or 15 hours.
During the overhaul, I removed the steel part that rivets into the aft boom
tube. One of the welds that holds the vertical stab on was completely
broken. It had been that way for some time because when I pulled the weld
apart, there was rust on the broken metal.
That was not the only problem. In fact, this plane was so bad off that a
lot of it got scrapped. This may not sound too bad until you realize that
this plane looked good and was being flown every day. The previous owner
was doing basic aerobatics in it.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
N is an ICAO designator.
re: Uranas--maybe yers, not mine.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: VW Engine Update |
Rick,
A couple years ago they had a big UL flyin at some smaller town near
Kalamazoo I believe it was. They having the event again this year and if
so when and where. This was an excellent grass roots UL flyin. I only
got to catch it winding down Sunday afternoon, but even so I want to come
back on Saturday. Let us know what's happening and when a month or so in
advance. (Need to order tickets and get time off.)
jerryb
>
>In some of my past posts I talked about RPM ranges were I was getting
>vibrations. In discussions with Gene & Larry Smith , the builder of my
>reduction drive it was determined that I had a poorly cut large sprocket.
>The sprocket has been replaced (no charge) and it appears that the
>vibrations are gone. I haven't had a chance to fly yet with the new
>sprocket but I think the noise level is reduced also.
>
>What a difference a week makes last Monday it was 65 degrees and calm
>today in Michigan it is 20 degrees and blowing.
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIII classic
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
----- Original Message ----- From: "bob n" <<A HREF="mailto:ronoy(at)shentel.net">ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: "N" number
>
> N is an ICAO designator.
> re: Uranas--maybe yers, not mine.
>
> bn
>
N is only used in the United States of America not North America.
The United States of Mexico use XA, XB, XC corresponding to military, private
and commercial.
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
C-172 N2506U
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Good Basic Book on Electrical Systems |
If you all want a good book on electrical systems that takes it down where
anybody with out an electrical background can understand and learn, it's
available from Amazon.com or West Marine. Go take a look at it at a West
marine Store. It has a very good basic coverage of electrical systems and
components including engine instruments, starters charging systems. Gets
down to how things work, not treating them as black boxes. "It's a clear
and useful guide for electrical system trouble shooting."
Title: The 12 Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook for the boat's electrical
system
Publisher: Weems & Plath
Edition: 1983
ISBN:1-878797-00-X
Cost from Amazon: $19.00
Cost from West Marine: $27.95
Note they also has a later edition 1998, but I found the 1983 edition
contained a few more things I was interested in. Both are really good
books. The 1998 edition is $24.95. He also has a book tailored towards
the RV owner.
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 447 & Bing Enrichment Valve Spring |
Very clever! Keep us posted on the results.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>I cut a butterfly valve assembly off of an old carburetor, and I made a
>mount for it to fit on the muffler exhaust pipe. When the weather gives me
>a warm day, I am going to see if exhaust back pressure will help to smooth
>out the idle. An RC modeler gave me the idea.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: VW Engine Update |
>\
>What a difference a week makes last Monday it was 65 degrees and calm
>today in Michigan it is 20 degrees and blowing.
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIII classic
Where in Michigan are you. I thought you were an east coaster.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "stephen e. spence" <sspence(at)tm.net> |
Subject: | Re: VW Engine Update |
Jerry:
You are probably referring to KIMO (KY, ID, MI, OH) multi state
competition held each year over Labor Day weekend at Brooks Field, Marshal
MI. I believe that for 2002 the plan is to hold the event in Three Rivers
MI. Another nice fly in is held by Michigan Ultra Light Assn (MULA) at
Schwartz Creek MI (near Flint) during the second weekend of July. Clubs in
the western part of the state keep busy with additional events that from
spring through fall.
Steve Spence
FF 013
Mk3X 23
Auburn Hills, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: VW Engine Update
>
> Rick,
> A couple years ago they had a big UL flyin at some smaller town near
> Kalamazoo I believe it was. They having the event again this year and if
> so when and where. This was an excellent grass roots UL flyin. I only
> got to catch it winding down Sunday afternoon, but even so I want to come
> back on Saturday. Let us know what's happening and when a month or so in
> advance. (Need to order tickets and get time off.)
> jerryb
>
> >
> >In some of my past posts I talked about RPM ranges were I was getting
> >vibrations. In discussions with Gene & Larry Smith , the builder of my
> >reduction drive it was determined that I had a poorly cut large sprocket.
> >The sprocket has been replaced (no charge) and it appears that the
> >vibrations are gone. I haven't had a chance to fly yet with the new
> >sprocket but I think the noise level is reduced also.
> >
> >What a difference a week makes last Monday it was 65 degrees and calm
> >today in Michigan it is 20 degrees and blowing.
> >
> >Rick Neilsen
> >Redrive VW powered MKIII classic
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Any Suzuki Engine Operators on the List |
Any body out there running a Suzuki/Geo engine on there plane. Like to
here more about it.
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: VW Engine Update |
I have a Grand Ledge mailing address (west of Lansing). I have a 1400
ft. strip next to my house that I fly out of, its located 1.25 miles due
west of the Lansing VOR.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered Kolb MKIII classic
>>> duesouth(at)iname.com 02/04/02 04:09PM >>>
>\
>What a difference a week makes last Monday it was 65 degrees and calm
>today in Michigan it is 20 degrees and blowing.
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIII classic
Where in Michigan are you. I thought you were an east coaster.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: torque them bolts |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
>
> It would be nice if they
> had a provision for safety wire.
I always safety wire a bolt that could find its way into the prop. If it is
AN hardware, you can replace the bolt with one that has a drilled head. If
there is no drilled equivalent to the bolt in question, drill it yourself.
You can freehand drill it or you can buy a drill jig from AS&S.
As many AN bolts as I use, I've found it cheaper to buy bolts undrilled and
drill them myself when needed.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
02/05/2002 12:27:45 PM
I disagree with an earlier post regarding the Sport Pilot proposal. My
reading of the Sport Pilot proposal indicates that the 80-hr course WOULD
be required to allow one to do non-preventive maintenance (repair) work on
your plane, regardless of whether you fall under the Special Sport Aircraft
or Experimental sport aircraft category. A 16-hr course would be required
to allow you to do inspections only. I can only hope that someone will
prove me wrong.
This thing looks to me like a limited-time amnesty offer to bring all the
sinners back into compliance. The attraction is that it does let you fly a
two place plane. I like that. But the lack of any approval to work on your
plane yourself, when most have built their own plane, seems like a real
deal killer to me. Who is going to have the time, money and inclination to
take two weeks off to pay for and complete a course so that someone can
tell you how to rivet aluminum tubing together? And who will be teaching
these courses?
FAA reps are supposed to be at the USUA convention this week in Ontario CA.
Im going to try and attend since its not too far from me. I will try and
get the full story on the maintenance issue and report back to the List.
Assuming the proposed rule is not substantially different than my
understanding, the best course of action will be a massive submittal of
comments to FAA indicating the shortcomings of the maintenance portion of
the rule - i.e., we need to be able to work on our planes ourselves. This
thing was supposedly intended to allow cheaper, easier, and safer access
to aviation by the general public. Im not sure that will be accomplished
for the many existing pilots with fat ultralights if self maintenance is
not allowed. FAA must address all comments submitted about the proposal, so
it is not out of the question that changes would be made based on public
input. Once we are sure of the facts, we will need to band together so that
we get something we can all live with!
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: torque them bolts |
Ross,
Are your exhaust manifold mounting bolts safety wired?
Did you have any problem drilling holes in there metric allen heads?
jerryb
>
>
> >
> > It would be nice if they
> > had a provision for safety wire.
>
>I always safety wire a bolt that could find its way into the prop. If it is
>AN hardware, you can replace the bolt with one that has a drilled head. If
>there is no drilled equivalent to the bolt in question, drill it yourself.
>You can freehand drill it or you can buy a drill jig from AS&S.
>
>As many AN bolts as I use, I've found it cheaper to buy bolts undrilled and
>drill them myself when needed.
>
>Ross
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: torque them bolts |
Will, make or buy a jig and drill and safty wire every bolt you can. If you
can't wire it, at least lock-tite it.
David Snyder Building FSII Long Branch N.J.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: torque them bolts |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Allen heads are easy to drill. You wont even need a jig for them. Just
drill straight through the head of the bolt from one side to the other right
through where the allen wrench fits.
I haven't wired anything on the Kolb yet because I'm in the middle of a
restoration, but I did safety wire the allen bolts on my Phantom. I almost
lost the muffler one day. One of the brackets came loose and the other one
broke (I guess from the added stress). We were dog fighting that day and
pulling a lot of G's. When I landed, the muffler was hanging by the
springs. Even on a tractor, I think losing the muffler would suck.
Ross
> From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 12:43:45 -0600
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: torque them bolts
>
>
> Ross,
> Are your exhaust manifold mounting bolts safety wired?
> Did you have any problem drilling holes in there metric allen heads?
> jerryb
>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> It would be nice if they
>>> had a provision for safety wire.
>>
>> I always safety wire a bolt that could find its way into the prop. If it is
>> AN hardware, you can replace the bolt with one that has a drilled head. If
>> there is no drilled equivalent to the bolt in question, drill it yourself.
>> You can freehand drill it or you can buy a drill jig from AS&S.
>>
>> As many AN bolts as I use, I've found it cheaper to buy bolts undrilled and
>> drill them myself when needed.
>>
>> Ross
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: torque them bolts |
It would be nice if they
> had a provision for safety wire.
> Will Uribe
Hi Will/Gang:
As previously stated, you can drill one side of the head and
safety wire, or get yourself some "bearing locker", clean
the bolt, apply the locker, and torque the bolt. It will
not come out. Will be difficult to remove when you want to
disassemble, but not that difficult.
First time I have seen an exhaust manifold bolt work loose.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: torque them bolts |
> As many AN bolts as I use, I've found it cheaper to buy bolts undrilled and
> drill them myself when needed.
>
> Ross
Ross/Gang:
Did not realize drilled bolts were that much more expensive
than undrilled bolts.
I prefer to buy drilled bolts, but when I get in a pinch and
can not get the drilled bolt I want, i.e., metric prop bolts
that are purchased locally, then I get the drill press hot
and start drilling. Usually use a 3/32" bit for prop
bolts. Always debur with a larger drill bit when I am
finished drilling.
Works for me,
john h
PS: Ross: Aren't you the fella that makes those zero ground
roll landings in 40 kt winds?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: torque them bolts |
Locktite comes in different strengths. Green/light strenth for small screws,
Blue/ medium, keeps fasteners tight, and Red/ for permanent applications.
David Snyder Building FSII Long Branch N.J.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: torque them bolts |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
> PS: Ross: Aren't you the fella that makes those zero ground
> roll landings in 40 kt winds?
I did that in this basket case Twinstar I'm rebuilding. After tearing it
apart, I cant believe I actually flew it.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: torque them bolts |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
> Did not realize drilled bolts were that much more expensive
> than undrilled bolts.
They really arent that much more expensive if you buy one or two. When you
buy them in lots of 100 plus, its cheaper to just buy undrilled and drill
what you need. For every drilled bolt I use, I probably use 10 undrilled.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: torque them bolts |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
> Greetings,
> I flew for about an hour this evening. When I was putting away my
> FireStar I
> noticed one of the bolts used to secure the exhaust had worked out.
> I hate
> to think what would have happen if it hit the prop. It would be nice
> if they
> had a provision for safety wire.
> Regards,
> Will Uribe
> El Paso, TX
> FireStar II N4GU
> C-172 N2506U
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
Will and others,
One bolt did come out and go through my wooden prop. It took off the
last 8" of the 2-bladed prop. The plane shook violently until I hit the
kill switch then it got real quiet and smooth. I was 1000' over the
frozen lake at the time in the winter of 1990 and I was more worried that
I would have to push the plane across the lake. I made a 180 turn and
looked out on my left wing only to see fabric blowing in the breeze. The
plane handled fine and I even slipped it in for a smooth landing next to
my car and trailer.
I related this to Dennis Souder at the old Kolb Company and he was kind
enough to send out 4 new 8mm bolts with drilled heads at no charge. They
are still in there with safety wire through them.
I repaired the left aileron and part of the wing rib where the bolt hit
from the bottom into the rib. That rib had thread marks on the bottom and
was dented upwards. I found the bolt rattling around in the wing.
If the prop was an Ivo or some other composite material, that bolt may
not have shattered it like that.
I was out flying all afternoon in near calm conditions today. I had a
ball! No muffler bolts are going to come out on me anymore.
Be careful out there ....
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: controlled airports |
Thanks, but there's plenty of room in my closet..., oh, "hangar" space...
:
)
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: controlled airports
>
> BB,
>
> Try hanger space.
>
> Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | News Flash -Cause of Pilots Personality Shifts Found |
Jan. 5, 2002 - 5:05 PM
Researchers from Pennsoil University report it has determined the cause of
attitude swings among many pilots over the age of 50. This phenomena has
been noticed but the actual cause has gone undetected for considerable
time. It seems most ultralight aircraft pilots operate 2-cycle engines
requiring the use of large amounts of oil blended with gasoline. The
erratic personality shifts are attributed to pilots exposure to both the
fumes and the mixture itself. The symptoms experienced include strong urge
to fly on sunny windless days followed by testy irritable attitudes when
they can't fulfill that need. While boat operators use a similar oil fuel
mixture, they have not demonstrated any symptoms. Unlike boaters, it is
believed the rapid change of surrounding barometric pressure as pilots
increase attitude while in flight is what triggers the affect. When asked
if there were any simple solutions, the researchers replied they could just
take away the oil however feel this might even cause larger attitude
swings. For now researches recommend frequent flights to reduce the
symptoms or large amounts of sex. However they were stern that any
significant reduction of either could result in the affected pilots
exhibiting a very grumpy personality. Researchers closed by saying they
hope to find a cure in the near future but for now the general public
should be alerted.
P.S. Note: This message is only a funny - Pennsoil University is a
fictitious name and not to be associated to any oil company.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
bob, Will, et al,
<<"N' was designated by ICAO .. other countries... faa person ask ..
country .. E003RN on tail!>>
<>
Actually the registration numbers have broader use than just ICAO.
Whether we know it or not, all "registered" airplanes worldwide are
assumed to have radios because the aircraft identifications are part
of the international radio callsign assignment scheme.
The USA has prefixes AA through AL, K, N and W. US radio authorities
(FCC) decided that US aircraft would get N plus 1 to 3 digits and then
2 letters or 1 to 4 digits and then 1 letter or 1 to 5 digits (as well
as the no longer assigned NCnumber and NXnumber).
Mexico is assigned XA through XI, 4A through 4C and 6D through 6J.
The prefix U is assigned to Russia and 3 former Soviet Republics.
Ezero is unassigned but E4 makes you part of the Palestinan
Authority. Expect a bureaucratic food fight some day between the FCC
and the FAA about all the ultralights flying around with handheld
radios talking to ATC facilities but obviously with no legal radio
callsign.
Bet this is more than you ever wanted to know about "N" numbers. Do
not archive.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Building original FireStar
Radio callsign AL7AU, aircraft callsigns N5XK and N911DR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Subject: | Cog belt drive on an Ultrastar |
I just installed a new cog belt drive from ZDE( Cuyuna repair
in Indiana) and was wondering if any one had experience with the unit.
It only fits the Cuyuna's or 2SI units. There is no adjustment for belt
tension and I am sure it will loosen up some..........
I also have a Nova gear box( 1-2.04) that was rebuilt 30 hours
ago , a Warp drive 50 inch adjustable 2 blade prop for this gearbox in
a pusher , original fuel tank per Ultrastar drawings( under the knees)
and an extra set of used drawings for the Ultrastar. Contact me for
details off list if you are interested.
Ed in Western NY
brrrrrrrr ! ! !
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cog belt drive on an Ultrastar |
It is hard to believe there is no provision for belt tension. Look at
the drive again. Sometimes the big cog is on a bolt or shaft that is a bit
excentric so that as you turn what appears to be a normal bolt on the axis
the big cog actually travels up or down a bit ( 1/4" ).
> I just installed a new cog belt drive from ZDE( Cuyuna repair
>in Indiana) and was wondering if any one had experience with the unit.
>It only fits the Cuyuna's or 2SI units. There is no adjustment for belt
>tension and I am sure it will loosen up some..........
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cog belt drive on an Ultrastar |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Could also be that they expect you to shim the engine up or down. I built a
belt drive once for a snowmobile engine and that's how I did it.
I must say though...Just about every belt drive I've ever seen has a slotted
hole on the top pulley.
Ross
> From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 08:28:58 -0500
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Cog belt drive on an Ultrastar
>
>
>
> It is hard to believe there is no provision for belt tension. Look at
> the drive again. Sometimes the big cog is on a bolt or shaft that is a bit
> excentric so that as you turn what appears to be a normal bolt on the axis
> the big cog actually travels up or down a bit ( 1/4" ).
>
>
>> I just installed a new cog belt drive from ZDE( Cuyuna repair
>> in Indiana) and was wondering if any one had experience with the unit.
>> It only fits the Cuyuna's or 2SI units. There is no adjustment for belt
>> tension and I am sure it will loosen up some..........
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flying in Iceland |
Johann:
Good to hear you will be a Sun and Fun this year.
I am still in the decision stage on whether I will fly down
this year or not. I flew for Kolb there last year, but so
far they have not mentioned any requirement for my help this
year.
More than likely I will fly my MK III. If I can not get
Kolb to help me out a little, i.e., food (which is difficult
to get on site if one has not transportation to get into
town) and fuel, I will probably stay a few days, then fly
back home and continue on my home remodeling project. Not
as much fun as the airplane projects.
One of these days I am going to start doing some space A
hops, and hope to get to Iceland. Probably not in the
winter though. I am still looking forward to my first trip
to Alaska in the winter.
Hope your Zenith project is progressing. Cris Heintz
designs some good airplanes. I met him early one morning in
the one and only bathhouse, at the time 1994, at the
campground at S&F. Another time I watched part of the
construction of a CH701 which was built in a week at S&F.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flying in Iceland |
> Johann:
>
> Good to hear you will be a Sun and Fun this year.
Hi Gang:
As most of you have already guessed, the referenced msg was
to have been sent bc.
May appologies for cluttering up the Kolb List with my
banter.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Mk-3, Verner Photos |
From: | William George <WGeorge(at)macrev.com> |
Hi Gang.
Been doing some lurking but not contributing. I have a new factory supplied
ECU for the Verner ignition but haven't had a chance to install it. It is
supposed to cure the hard cold start problem.
To further my procrastination award status, I still haven't quite got my
Mk-3 web site republished since I dumped AOL. But, in the meantime I did
post some photos on my Apple site. URL is.
http://homepage.mac.com/wgeorge737/PhotoAlbum1.html
Take care,
Bill George
Mk-3 Verner1400 Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: THE BMW FLIES |
Hey Kolbers,
After exactly one year and almost 1000 hours I wish to inform everyone that
my Mark III Extra received an Airworthiness certificate and had its maiden
flight last Saturday.
The BMW performed well without any problems and sounds great.
The Airplane flew well except for needing a lot of forward stick pressure.
I have adjusted both the ailerons and flaps down to give them a slight
droop. Hopefully that will help. Ready to test fly again.
Thanks to the list and all that have responded to my questions.
This list is an invaluable source of info.
Thanks.
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Extra - #14
N100MX
BMW powered.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: THE BMW FLIES |
> my Mark III Extra received an Airworthiness certificate and had its maiden
> flight last Saturday.
> Hans van Alphen
Hans/Gang:
Congratulation!
Send us some pics.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: THE BMW FLIES |
Great news, Hans. Now we're waiting for more details. Congratulations ! !
! Envious Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: THE BMW FLIES
>
> Hey Kolbers,
> After exactly one year and almost 1000 hours I wish to inform everyone
that
> my Mark III Extra received an Airworthiness certificate and had its maiden
> flight last Saturday.
> The BMW performed well without any problems and sounds great.
> The Airplane flew well except for needing a lot of forward stick
pressure.
> I have adjusted both the ailerons and flaps down to give them a slight
> droop. Hopefully that will help. Ready to test fly again.
> Thanks to the list and all that have responded to my questions.
> This list is an invaluable source of info.
> Thanks.
> Hans van Alphen
> Mark III Extra - #14
> N100MX
> BMW powered.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kenny Broste" <kenandmona(at)earthlink.net> |
I think the sport pilot proposal is the best thing to come along for our
sport since sliced bread. (I don't know how sliced bread fits in, but
it sounds good.) The authorities are recognizing the sport as it grows
in popularity. I don't think an 80 hour course to qualify for
maintenance and repairs on our aircraft is asking too much. Who knows
we might learn something! When an accident, particularly a fatality,
occurs it doesn't shine favorably on our sport. I've also earned my
PPL-ASEL but I have not been able to qualify in regards to the medical
part of it. It may be interesting to see how it works out in terms of
examiners for the licensing. I can see a time lag before examiners are
qualified in terms of certificating the sport pilot license.
Kenny
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
>
> I don't think an 80 hour course to qualify for
> maintenance and repairs on our aircraft is asking too much.
An 80 hour course in reasonable for the guy that goes out and buys a plane
already built. For a guy that built his own plane to take any course at all
in order to work on it is absolutely ridiculous.
Personally, think the current rules for experimental aircraft should apply.
If you built it, you get the repairman's certificate. If you bought it, you
pay an A&P to work on it. The sport pilot proposal should have nothing to
do with the aircraft other than specifying the qualification rules.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
I agree, the question is--are the experimental owner/builders who are
currently legally inspecting their own planes going to be able to
continue as is without additional requirements? -BB
Richard Carlisle wrote:
>
> >
> > I don't think an 80 hour course to qualify for
> > maintenance and repairs on our aircraft is asking too much.
>
> An 80 hour course in reasonable for the guy that goes out and buys a plane
> already built. For a guy that built his own plane to take any course at all
> in order to work on it is absolutely ridiculous.
>
> Personally, think the current rules for experimental aircraft should apply.
> If you built it, you get the repairman's certificate. If you bought it, you
> pay an A&P to work on it. The sport pilot proposal should have nothing to
> do with the aircraft other than specifying the qualification rules.
>
> Ross
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
"Kolb"
Subject: | Extremely Important |
Please--anyone out there that is flying a FireStar, FireFly or any Kolb
aircraft with the new control system in it, contact Ron Fortner by e-mail at=0D
=0D
aircraftservices(at)ohioco.net=0D
=0D
Mr. Fortner is the DAR that inspected my FireStar and he is trying to find
out how many of these aircraft are flying. I would sugest that if you are
close to completeing one of these that you contact him also. If you need
details feel free to contact me off list.=0D
=0D
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> I agree, the question is--are the experimental owner/builders who are
> currently legally inspecting their own planes going to be able to
> continue as is without additional requirements? -BB
Bob/Gang:
Whay not?
I have a valid repairman's certificate in my pocket for
N101AB. Don't think they want to take that away from me
now.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Extremely Important |
> Please--anyone out there that is flying a FireStar, FireFly or any Kolb
> aircraft with the new control system in it, contact Ron Fortner
> Ron Payne
Ron/Gang:
Recommend you contact Danny Mullins, 606-862-9692, Kolb
Aircraft, if you have a problem with the controls or any
other problem with your Kolb aircraft.
It seems to me that he would be the man to talk to about
your problem.
If Danny doesn't satisfy you, then contact Bruce Chesnut,
London, KY, he owns a big chunk of Kolb Aircraft.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Extremely Important |
Danny has been contacted several times on this subject and I have personall
talked to Bruce Chestnut. The only thing he said was that I was guilty of
slander and he was not going to stand for it. This is an important issue
and I suggest that anyone concerned contact Ron Fortner.=0D
=0D
RonPayne=0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
Date: Thursday, February 07, 2002 15:35:25=0D
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Extremely Important=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
> Please--anyone out there that is flying a FireStar, FireFly or any Kolb=0D
> aircraft with the new control system in it, contact Ron Fortner =0D
> Ron Payne=0D
=0D
=0D
Ron/Gang:=0D
=0D
Recommend you contact Danny Mullins, 606-862-9692, Kolb=0D
Aircraft, if you have a problem with the controls or any=0D
other problem with your Kolb aircraft.=0D
=0D
It seems to me that he would be the man to talk to about=0D
your problem.=0D
=0D
If Danny doesn't satisfy you, then contact Bruce Chesnut,=0D
London, KY, he owns a big chunk of Kolb Aircraft.=0D
=0D
Take care,=0D
=0D
john h=0D
=0D
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=2E
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Butterfly Valve on Exhaust |
Richard & Folks,
I tried it today and it had no noticeable beneficial effect. So much for
the advice of a RC modeler on how th make a Rotax 447 idle better.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>>I cut a butterfly valve assembly off of an old carburetor, and I made a
>>mount for it to fit on the muffler exhaust pipe. When the weather gives me
>>a warm day, I am going to see if exhaust back pressure will help to smooth
>>out the idle. An RC modeler gave me the idea.
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Butterfly Valve on Exhaust |
> I tried it today and it had no noticeable beneficial effect. So much for
> the advice of a RC modeler on how th make a Rotax 447 idle better.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
Jack/Gang:
Two strokes will never behave like four strokes, especially
low compression four strokes, i.e., old 65 Continentals that
will idle down like a Model A Ford.
It has been a long time since I was actively involved with
the two strokes, but I do not think they have changed that
much since I was the proud owner/operator of three different
models. Seems mine always idled better about 2,000 rpm.
Wind direction, taxi speed/wind direction, would make a
difference in the way mine idled, by loading/unloading the
engine.
They waste a lot of fuel and oil to stay cool enough to
prevent seizing, yet if they are "babied" they easily get
gooped up which creates other problems.
I realize many folks on this List and other places in the
Ultralight/Two Stroke world do not agree with me, and that
is ok. The 1,300 plus hours I flew in front of my three
different two strokes were flown primarily at 5,800 to 6,000
rpm. Insured I did not idle any longer than necessary.
Used organic oil, primarily Pennzoil for air cooled two
strokes.
My last flight in my Mk III powered by a 582 was a forced
landing caused by a cold seizure (I think). Under stand the
Blue Head 582 has corrected this problem by designing a
coolant bypass to prevent the thermostat from dumping a ton
of cold water in the system at one whack, super cooling the
cylinder liner and seizing the piston.
I have more time now on my 912 and 912S than I did on the
two strokes. Biggest difference is weight, fuel/oil
consumption, and reliability. Oh yea, my 912S idles nicely
at 1500 rpm.
john h
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Extremely Important |
> Danny has been contacted several times on this subject and I have persona> ll
> talked to Bruce Chestnut. The only thing he said was that I was guilty o> f
> slander and he was not going to stand for it.
> RonPayne=0D
Ron/Gang:
Sounds more like a personal problem than an airplane
problem.
It takes a lot to get Bruce Chesnut rialed up, and maybe
that is what you did.
I still say the solution to any problem with aircraft design
and fabrication safety is with Kolb Aircraft.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Butterfly Valve on Exhaust |
That's OK.............you made the effort, and how do you learn if you don't
try ?? There's too many nay-sayers out there, and not enuf of us who'll
"give 'er a whirl." Good for you. Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack & Louise Hart" <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Butterfly Valve on Exhaust
>
> Richard & Folks,
>
> I tried it today and it had no noticeable beneficial effect. So much for
> the advice of a RC modeler on how th make a Rotax 447 idle better.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
> >
> >>I cut a butterfly valve assembly off of an old carburetor, and I made a
> >>mount for it to fit on the muffler exhaust pipe. When the weather gives
me
> >>a warm day, I am going to see if exhaust back pressure will help to
smooth
> >>out the idle. An RC modeler gave me the idea.
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Mk-3, Verner Photos |
From: | Scott Trask <sctrask(at)diisd.org> |
on 2/6/02 6:02 PM, William George at WGeorge(at)macrev.com wrote:
>
> Hi Gang.
>
> Been doing some lurking but not contributing. I have a new factory supplied
> ECU for the Verner ignition but haven't had a chance to install it. It is
> supposed to cure the hard cold start problem.
>
> To further my procrastination award status, I still haven't quite got my
> Mk-3 web site republished since I dumped AOL. But, in the meantime I did
> post some photos on my Apple site. URL is.
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/wgeorge737/PhotoAlbum1.html
>
> Take care,
>
> Bill George
> Mk-3 Verner1400 Powerfin
>
>
>
>
Hi Bill
I took a look at your photos nice job. If I'm looking at it right it
appears like you have the exhaust mounted to the airframe. If so you are
going to run into trouble with that set up. There is a lot of energy in line
of vibration between the engine mount and the airframe that gets absorbed by
the lord mounts. You're better off to make a bracket from the engine
frame(the same side as the lord mounts). Please keep a eye on it.
Scott Trask IMT MK111
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mk-3, Verner Photos |
Scott, your right on target.
Bill, listen the man.
I quickly scanned his pictures and what looks like plumbers strap on the
lower exhaust pipe caught my attention then but it didn't register at the time.
jerryb
>
>on 2/6/02 6:02 PM, William George at WGeorge(at)macrev.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Gang.
> >
> > Been doing some lurking but not contributing. I have a new factory supplied
> > ECU for the Verner ignition but haven't had a chance to install it. It is
> > supposed to cure the hard cold start problem.
> >
> > To further my procrastination award status, I still haven't quite got my
> > Mk-3 web site republished since I dumped AOL. But, in the meantime I did
> > post some photos on my Apple site. URL is.
> >
> > http://homepage.mac.com/wgeorge737/PhotoAlbum1.html
> >
> > Take care,
> >
> > Bill George
> > Mk-3 Verner1400 Powerfin
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Hi Bill
> I took a look at your photos nice job. If I'm looking at it right it
>appears like you have the exhaust mounted to the airframe. If so you are
>going to run into trouble with that set up. There is a lot of energy in line
>of vibration between the engine mount and the airframe that gets absorbed by
>the lord mounts. You're better off to make a bracket from the engine
>frame(the same side as the lord mounts). Please keep a eye on it.
> Scott Trask IMT MK111
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Please read-Sorry |
The address I gave for Ron Fortner was not correct. It should have been
aircraftservices(at)ohiocounty.net county has to be spelled out completely=2E
Please contact him if you have one of the new controls.=0D
=0D
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Subject: | Re: Butterfly Valve on Exhaust |
Jack & Gang,
The exhaust butterfly has been very successful in the RC world. It has to be
mounted right at the exhaust port. One for each cylinder. Mounting it at the
opposite end of the muffler on the outlet pipe would leave to large of an
expansion area and it would make little or no difference. They are
especially effective on 2 strokes that are used in RC boats. Provides a very
smooth idle at low rpms. If you were to build a butterfly plate that mounted
between the cylinder and the exhaust manifold, you might be surprised by the
results.
Good Luck if you choose to try.
Guy Swenson
MKIII Xtra - N3053B
20+ years of RC Modeling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack & Louise Hart" <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Butterfly Valve on Exhaust
>
> Richard & Folks,
>
> I tried it today and it had no noticeable beneficial effect. So much for
> the advice of a RC modeler on how th make a Rotax 447 idle better.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
> >
> >>I cut a butterfly valve assembly off of an old carburetor, and I made a
> >>mount for it to fit on the muffler exhaust pipe. When the weather gives
me
> >>a warm day, I am going to see if exhaust back pressure will help to
smooth
> >>out the idle. An RC modeler gave me the idea.
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Mk-3, Verner Photos |
One of the locals in the area put a Verner on a T-Bird (no comment) and did
not do a sufficient job of isolating the vibration feeding into the hangers
that restrain that little muffler that hangs down there, cost him a 3 blade
Warp Drive prop, several slashes & dents along his trailing edges, and a
funky shaped hole in his hanger roof. You got to absolutely, positively,
keep that sucker from being able to get loose and swing backwards.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>on 2/6/02 6:02 PM, William George at WGeorge(at)macrev.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Gang.
>>
>> Been doing some lurking but not contributing. I have a new factory supplied
>> ECU for the Verner ignition but haven't had a chance to install it. It is
>> supposed to cure the hard cold start problem.
>>
>> To further my procrastination award status, I still haven't quite got my
>> Mk-3 web site republished since I dumped AOL. But, in the meantime I did
>> post some photos on my Apple site. URL is.
>>
>> http://homepage.mac.com/wgeorge737/PhotoAlbum1.html
>>
>> Take care,
>>
>> Bill George
>> Mk-3 Verner1400 Powerfin
>>
>>
>>
>>
> Hi Bill
> I took a look at your photos nice job. If I'm looking at it right it
>appears like you have the exhaust mounted to the airframe. If so you are
>going to run into trouble with that set up. There is a lot of energy in line
>of vibration between the engine mount and the airframe that gets absorbed by
>the lord mounts. You're better off to make a bracket from the engine
>frame(the same side as the lord mounts). Please keep a eye on it.
> Scott Trask IMT MK111
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Peter Volum" <pvolum(at)etsmiami.com> |
Subject: | Extremely Important |
Could somebody please us in the picture as to what this is all about?
Peter Volum
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron or Mary
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Extremely Important
Danny has been contacted several times on this subject and I have personall
talked to Bruce Chestnut. The only thing he said was that I was guilty of
slander and he was not going to stand for it. This is an important issue
and I suggest that anyone concerned contact Ron Fortner.=0D
=0D
RonPayne=0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
Date: Thursday, February 07, 2002 15:35:25=0D
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Extremely Important=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
> Please--anyone out there that is flying a FireStar, FireFly or any Kolb=0D
> aircraft with the new control system in it, contact Ron Fortner =0D
> Ron Payne=0D
=0D
=0D
Ron/Gang:=0D
=0D
Recommend you contact Danny Mullins, 606-862-9692, Kolb=0D
Aircraft, if you have a problem with the controls or any=0D
other problem with your Kolb aircraft.=0D
=0D
It seems to me that he would be the man to talk to about=0D
your problem.=0D
=0D
If Danny doesn't satisfy you, then contact Bruce Chesnut,=0D
London, KY, he owns a big chunk of Kolb Aircraft.=0D
=0D
Take care,=0D
=0D
john h=0D
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Subject: | 02.08.02: Aero-News Network: Aviation News, Columnists, Huge |
Library of
Aviation Information
--So a little bickering has begun. --you can't please everyone do not
archive
http://www.aero-news.net/indexnews1.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Please read-Sorry |
What are you getting at Ron??
>The address I gave for Ron Fortner was not correct. It should have been
>aircraftservices(at)ohiocounty.net county has to be spelled out completely>=2E
>Please contact him if you have one of the new controls.=0D
\
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Extremely Important |
Wasn't it about the problems with the new control stick design ?? I didn't
pay a whole lot of attention, cause I'm not building one, but seems like it
binds, or slacks off, or something as you move the stick. Do I get
the cigar ??
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Volum" <pvolum(at)etsmiami.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Extremely Important
>
> Could somebody please us in the picture as to what this is all about?
>
> Peter Volum
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron or Mary
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Extremely Important
>
>
> Danny has been contacted several times on this subject and I have persona> ll
> talked to Bruce Chestnut. The only thing he said was that I was guilty o> f
> slander and he was not going to stand for it. This is an important issue
> and I suggest that anyone concerned contact Ron Fortner.=0D
> =0D
> RonPayne=0D
> =0D
> -------Original Message-------=0D
> =0D
> From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
> Date: Thursday, February 07, 2002 15:35:25=0D
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Extremely Important=0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> > Please--anyone out there that is flying a FireStar, FireFly or any Kolb> =0D
> > aircraft with the new control system in it, contact Ron Fortner =0D
> > Ron Payne=0D
> =0D
> =0D
> Ron/Gang:=0D
> =0D
> Recommend you contact Danny Mullins, 606-862-9692, Kolb=0D
> Aircraft, if you have a problem with the controls or any=0D
> other problem with your Kolb aircraft.=0D
> =0D
> It seems to me that he would be the man to talk to about=0D
> your problem.=0D
> =0D
> If Danny doesn't satisfy you, then contact Bruce Chesnut,=0D
> London, KY, he owns a big chunk of Kolb Aircraft.=0D
> =0D
> Take care,=0D
> =0D
> john h=0D
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Morning Gang:
Here is a url that will take you to some short articles
written by Eric Tucker, ROTAX, Vernon, BC:
http://www.aero-news.net/columns/politics/Av8rSoapbox/av8rsoapbox2001f.htm
Scroll down to the bottom of the page and you can dig his
articles out.
You will also find an email for Eric. If you have a
question reference any of the Rotax engines, he is the man
to call. I have known Eric for many years. He was very
helpful to me, early on (and still is), when I was trying to
get projects and flights put together. I was fortunate to
have lunch with Eric and his daughter in Vernon, BC, my last
day in Canada last July. Got the grand tour of ROTECH
RESEARCH CANADA LTD, Eric's company that does developement
and testing of Rotax engines. Eric is also an expert
witness for Rotax.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
I'm looking for some help from the LIST. I'm currently flying a Firestar
with a 377. Here's my problem, it happen twice last winter and once this
year. When I roll her out of the hanger I let it warm up until I see 200
degrees at the heads, a couple of run ups to clean her out and I'm up and
flying. When I come back home and use a long slow descent with the engine
idling its stops running as I'm rolling out. It never has happened in the
summer. I believe I need some jet changing. Can anyone advise me on which
way I need to go. Richer? Leaner? Raise the clip? Lower the clip? Summer
settings? Winter settings?
This is very embarrassing and potentially dangerous when it happens at my
local airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
When I come back home and use a long slow descent with the
engine
> idling its stops running as I'm rolling out. It never has happened in the
> summer.
Dwight/Gang:
I do not think rejecting will help your problem. Maybe
reeducating the pilot will. Not a good idea to let an
aircooled engine of any type idle for a "long slow decent".
If you do, it will probably quit running.
Good idea to keep the rpm up a little and clear the engine
frequently in winter conditions.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
Dear Hans,
Congratulations on your flight. Where are you located? How much does your
engine weigh? Where did you position the leading edge of your horizontal
stabilizer. Is yours is at mid-tube as per the revised plans, or is it
positioned at the
top of the tube as on the original plans?
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
Mark IIIXtra (on the gear)- after 1 yr.-2 yr. to go?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Retarded Ignitions |
That would be Airscrew Performance, I have one of their units on my 532. It
is kinda expensive, but it works perfectly. It does retard the spark, but
not until the idle drops below 1,600, so mostly you don't ever use it. In
practice, you keep backing the idle speed screws out, and it gets rougher
below 2,000 until it gets to 1,400, and then the ignition retards and it
suddenly drops down to about 900 and gets real smooth. But it's really too
slow an idle. At that low speed, it does tend to stall sometimes, and just
plain sounds un-appropriate. So I keep the idle at 2,000-2,200, and don't
use the retard function at normal idle.
On the other hand, when starting, it never gets into that horrible gearbox
rattle that it used to do when it had points. It starts with a very slow
smooth idle, and then comes smoothly up to a normal idle speed. That has to
save some wear and tear, that rattle sounds hard on the crank.
You are right about parts being available somewhere. (but where?) I got the
Central Snowmobile Supply catalog and tried to cross reference the parts I
got from Airscrew Performance with what they had in there, but nothing
correlated. Maybe some of our listers in the Great White North could come
up with some commonly known interchangable Rotax/SkiDoo/Bombardier ignition
parts (points/CDI) that us Southerners have no clue on?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Bob and all,
>
>I read some where, maybe this list, that there is a guy that puts in a
>different CDI (Nepondeso?) that has spark retard/advance that makes the 503
>idle very smoothly....I can't see any reason (except for time/$) that all
>the Rotax 2 strokes can't have a modern computer controlled ignition system
>with spark advance
>Geoff Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com> |
Hey Guys,
Doesn't it sound like he should adjust the elevator stabilizers for that
heavy stick ???
Gotta Fly...
Mike
SNIP>>>
From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: THE BMW FLIES
Hey Kolbers,
After exactly one year and almost 1000 hours I wish to inform everyone that
my Mark III Extra received an Airworthiness certificate and had its maiden
flight last Saturday.
The BMW performed well without any problems and sounds great.
The Airplane flew well except for needing a lot of forward stick pressure.
I have adjusted both the ailerons and flaps down to give them a slight
droop. Hopefully that will help. Ready to test fly again.
Thanks to the list and all that have responded to my questions.
This list is an invaluable source of info.
Thanks.
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Extra - #14
N100MX
BMW powered.
Go Get It!
Send FREE Valentine eCards with Lycos Greetings
http://greetings.lycos.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 02/07/02 |
>From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: THE BMW FLIES
>
>> my Mark III Extra received an Airworthiness certificate and had its
maiden
>> flight last Saturday.
>> Hans van Alphen
>
>Hans/Gang:
>Congratulation!
>Send us some pics.
>
>john h
John and Gang, have a look at my personal pages for further info and
pictures.
I have a lot more pictures to post, this is just a start...
http://home.bellsouth.net/personalpages/PWP-BMWflyer
hope it works.
Thanks.
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Xtra
N100MX
BMW powered.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 02/07/02 |
I am in Ontario CA, attending the USUA annual meeting and the FFA presented
the new sport proposal. Keep in mind that this is only a proposal and not a
rule yet. Also keep in mind that I am telling what I thought I heard them
say and this is not official.
It appears that 103 will not change.
But "listen closely" fat ultralights will not come under 103 and they face
a new challenge. It sounds to me like the fat ultralight can be
"registered" but there are some conditions. The pilot of the fat will have
to have a license (not quite clear what kind) with class III medical or
valid driver's license. Also the fat ultralight will require FAA
certification and an annual inspection. It appears that the owner of single
seat fat ultralight will have to attend a 16 hour maintenance course in
order to do his own maintained. I am not sure but it sounds like the owner
of a single place fat ultralight can do his own annual but I got the
impression the two place must have an annual inspection by someone that has
attended an 80 hour (that's two weeks) course. The two seat training
exemption will no longer exist. It also sounds like the BFI and AFI will no
longer exist and that only a CFI can give training in a certified aircraft
meaning "A Factory Built Aircraft".
Again, I caution everyone that this is what I heard, but it is not official.
I would like to hear from anyone else that was there to see what they heard.
Vic Worthington
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
No. When a MKIII is balanced correctly, set it up for solo flight by
adjusting the ailerons and flaps down a little at a time until it trims out
at around 50 MPH or so at cruise power setting. If it acts too nose heavy,
then you raise the trailing edge of the ailerons and flaps, which will have
the effect of causing the aircraft to want to fly at a slower trim speed,
or act more tail heavy, depending on your point of view. This is because
raising or lowering the aileron and flap trailing edges changes the
location of the center of pressure on the wings, effectively making the
airplane slightly more nose or tail heavy. Drooping the flaps moves the
center of pressure aft; the nose gets heavier. Raising the flaps moves the
center of pressure forward, the tail gets heavier. Then you fine tune it
with the trim control.
The same thing also happens in a more gross fashion when you grab the flap
handle and raise and lower the flaps.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hey Guys,
> Doesn't it sound like he should adjust the elevator stabilizers for
>that heavy stick ???
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike
>
>
>SNIP>>>
>From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: THE BMW FLIES
>
>
>Hey Kolbers,
>After exactly one year and almost 1000 hours I wish to inform everyone that
>my Mark III Extra received an Airworthiness certificate and had its maiden
>flight last Saturday.
>The BMW performed well without any problems and sounds great.
>The Airplane flew well except for needing a lot of forward stick pressure.
>I have adjusted both the ailerons and flaps down to give them a slight
>droop. Hopefully that will help. Ready to test fly again.
>Thanks to the list and all that have responded to my questions.
>This list is an invaluable source of info.
>Thanks.
>Hans van Alphen
>Mark III Extra - #14
>N100MX
>BMW powered.
>
>
>Go Get It!
>Send FREE Valentine eCards with Lycos Greetings
>http://greetings.lycos.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Where is your CG falling within the envelop.
Sounds like your a little tail heavy - where's you battery located?.
I recall reading a couple post where I've seem a couple people claim when
solo they had to carry ballast.
jerryb
>
>Hey Guys,
> Doesn't it sound like he should adjust the elevator stabilizers
> for that heavy stick ???
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike
>
>
>SNIP>>>
>From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: THE BMW FLIES
>
>
>Hey Kolbers,
>After exactly one year and almost 1000 hours I wish to inform everyone that
>my Mark III Extra received an Airworthiness certificate and had its maiden
>flight last Saturday.
>The BMW performed well without any problems and sounds great.
>The Airplane flew well except for needing a lot of forward stick pressure.
>I have adjusted both the ailerons and flaps down to give them a slight
>droop. Hopefully that will help. Ready to test fly again.
>Thanks to the list and all that have responded to my questions.
>This list is an invaluable source of info.
>Thanks.
>Hans van Alphen
>Mark III Extra - #14
>N100MX
>BMW powered.
>
>
>Go Get It!
>Send FREE Valentine eCards with Lycos Greetings
>http://greetings.lycos.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
I almost forgot. Kolb will shoot me for bringing this up but what the
heck. A guy at our field built a Mark-III. He had gotten a special
bracket which allows you to adjust the leading edge of the horizontal
stab. It replaced the normal forward mounting bracket that mount to the
boom tube.
jerryb
adjustable leading edge horizontal
>
>Hey Guys,
> Doesn't it sound like he should adjust the elevator stabilizers
> for that heavy stick ???
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike
>
>
>SNIP>>>
>From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: THE BMW FLIES
>
>
>Hey Kolbers,
>After exactly one year and almost 1000 hours I wish to inform everyone that
>my Mark III Extra received an Airworthiness certificate and had its maiden
>flight last Saturday.
>The BMW performed well without any problems and sounds great.
>The Airplane flew well except for needing a lot of forward stick pressure.
>I have adjusted both the ailerons and flaps down to give them a slight
>droop. Hopefully that will help. Ready to test fly again.
>Thanks to the list and all that have responded to my questions.
>This list is an invaluable source of info.
>Thanks.
>Hans van Alphen
>Mark III Extra - #14
>N100MX
>BMW powered.
>
>
>Go Get It!
>Send FREE Valentine eCards with Lycos Greetings
>http://greetings.lycos.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Kolb will shoot me for bringing this up but what the
> heck. A guy at our field built a Mark-III. He had gotten a special
> bracket which allows you to adjust the leading edge of the horizontal
> stab.
> jerryb
JerryB/Gang:
I don't think Kolb will shoot you.
Miss P'fer ("P" fer plane), my Mark III, sported the first
(as far as I know) adjustable horizontal stab leading edge.
Brother Jim Hauck designed and fabricated a set for me when
he was welding up the fuselage for Miss P'fer in 1991.
This was an experiment to determine the best location for
the leading edge. I knew from experience flying the factory
Mark III, Fat Albert, that it took a lot of nose up trim to
fly the Mark III at cruise power.
Later on Kolb used a similar setup on the Firestar.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: 02.08.02: Aero-News Network: Aviation News, |
Columnists, Huge Library of Aviation Information
The guy the tried to open the cockpit door on that 777, was he confused
thinking it was a head.
jerryb
>
>--So a little bickering has begun. --you can't please everyone do not
>archive
>http://www.aero-news.net/indexnews1.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
>
>
> I'm looking for some help from the LIST. I'm currently flying a
> Firestar
> with a 377. Here's my problem, it happen twice last winter and once
> this
> year. When I roll her out of the hanger I let it warm up until I
> see 200
> degrees at the heads, a couple of run ups to clean her out and I'm
> up and
> flying. When I come back home and use a long slow descent with the
> engine
> idling its stops running as I'm rolling out. It never has happened
> in the
> summer. I believe I need some jet changing. Can anyone advise me
> on which
> way I need to go. Richer? Leaner? Raise the clip? Lower the clip?
> Summer
> settings? Winter settings?
> This is very embarrassing and potentially dangerous when it happens
> at my
> local airport.
Dwight,
When it gets cold I do two things:
1) Increase the idle speed to 2200-2500 rpm by turning the idle speed
adjust clockwise.
2) I raise the jet needle one notch to position #3 in the clip (#1 at the
top and #4 at the bottom).
Upon descent, watch the EGT's and lower or raise the throttle if they
start getting too high (above 1250 deg). You will notice between
4600-4900 rpm, the EGT's will run high if the prop is unloaded. So, you
can also raise the nose and load the prop to bring them down, but this is
not a convenient thing to do when you are descending. Once on the ground,
the faster idle speed should keep it running better so it won't quit on
you. If this doesn't keep the engine from quitting, then you might have
other problems.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 02/07/02 |
<<<<<>>>>
there is one more thing that needs to be entered into the
equasion..... rc engines run on glow fuel and do not have
a spark plug for ignition..... i think that some of the
problem may be the spark advance at idle.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | William George <WGeorge(at)macrev.com> |
<< Hi Bill
I took a look at your photos nice job. If I'm looking at it right it
appears like you have the exhaust mounted to the airframe. If so you are
going to run into trouble with that set up. There is a lot of energy in line
of vibration between the engine mount and the airframe that gets absorbed by
the lord mounts. You're better off to make a bracket from the engine
frame(the same side as the lord mounts). Please keep a eye on it.
Scott Trask IMT MK111>>
Thanks Scott,
Appreciate the constructive comments from listers. That's what it's all
about.
I don't have any recent photos of the current exhaust set up. I have posted
a couple of the original configuration when the installation was still in
progress. Check the site below.
The straps (plumber's tape) are wrapped around pieces of hydraulic hose
where they attach to the frame. The straps have safety wire threaded through
the holes to attempt to keep the pieces contained should one crack. The Lord
mount on the left side has been removed and replaced with a piece of steel
belted radial tire rubber oriented on the lateral axis. The original was
beginning to crack due to the vibration axis being perpendicular to the
rubber.
The exhaust part of the installation is the least satisfying. But, I should
note the the dealer original installation on the Mk-3 only has a single
mount at the muffler tab with a piece of tire as the vibration isolator. We
added a clamp on the other side with another strap to the frame for a bit of
redundancy.
Suggestions welcome. Thanks again,
Bill George
Mk-3 Verner 1400 Powerfin
http://homepage.mac.com/wgeorge737/PhotoAlbum1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Bob and Kolbers,
Relax guys, the new Sport Pilot Repairman Certificate will not affect those
of us who built and register our aircraft as amateur-built. Here is a quote
from the EAA Executive Summary of the Sport Pilot NPRM.
http://www.sportpilot.org/nprm/executive_summary.html
Quote
"The NPRM in no way changes the existing Experimental amateur-built rules.
It DOES NOT affect the requirements for a Repairman Certificate for that
category of aircraft."
The key words here are AMATEUR-BUILT.
The 16Hr and 80 Hr Repairman Certificates Pertain to the two NEW categories
of Aircraft, Special light-sport aircraft and Experimental light-sport
aircraft.
Notice the words LIGHT-SPORT are found in both. Go to this Link and read it
for yourselves.
http://www.sportpilot.org/nprm/aircraft_maint.html
Just tryin to clear the air a bit.
Guy Swenson
MKIII Xtra N3053B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bean" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Sport Pilot
>
> I agree, the question is--are the experimental owner/builders who are
> currently legally inspecting their own planes going to be able to
> continue as is without additional requirements? -BB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
I pestered Danny at TNK enough and he finally let me purchase an
adjustable bracket for my Mark III X-tra. Seems like every plane flies
a little differently and it makes sense to have the option. Don't
remember what he charged but it seemed reasonable looking at the amount
of fabrication involved.
Rex Rodebush
Kolb will shoot me for bringing this up but what the
> heck. A guy at our field built a Mark-III. He had gotten a special
> bracket which allows you to adjust the leading edge of the horizontal
> stab.
> jerryb
JerryB/Gang:
I don't think Kolb will shoot you.
Miss P'fer ("P" fer plane), my Mark III, sported the first
(as far as I know) adjustable horizontal stab leading edge.
Brother Jim Hauck designed and fabricated a set for me when
he was welding up the fuselage for Miss P'fer in 1991.
This was an experiment to determine the best location for
the leading edge. I knew from experience flying the factory
Mark III, Fat Albert, that it took a lot of nose up trim to
fly the Mark III at cruise power.
Later on Kolb used a similar setup on the Firestar.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
"HI" Rex
Could you share some pictures of the new bracket?
Thank you
Wayne Boyter
Mark 3
Rotax 582 72" Warp drive
Roseburg, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Heavy stick
>
> I pestered Danny at TNK enough and he finally let me purchase an
> adjustable bracket for my Mark III X-tra. Seems like every plane flies
> a little differently and it makes sense to have the option. Don't
> remember what he charged but it seemed reasonable looking at the amount
> of fabrication involved.
>
> Rex Rodebush
>
>
> Kolb will shoot me for bringing this up but what the
> > heck. A guy at our field built a Mark-III. He had gotten a special
> > bracket which allows you to adjust the leading edge of the horizontal
> > stab.
> > jerryb
>
> JerryB/Gang:
>
> I don't think Kolb will shoot you.
>
> Miss P'fer ("P" fer plane), my Mark III, sported the first
> (as far as I know) adjustable horizontal stab leading edge.
> Brother Jim Hauck designed and fabricated a set for me when
> he was welding up the fuselage for Miss P'fer in 1991.
>
> This was an experiment to determine the best location for
> the leading edge. I knew from experience flying the factory
> Mark III, Fat Albert, that it took a lot of nose up trim to
> fly the Mark III at cruise power.
>
> Later on Kolb used a similar setup on the Firestar.
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>"HI" Rex
>
>Could you share some pictures of the new bracket?
>
>Thank you
>Wayne Boyter
I've got a pair on mine that "Adjusts" the horizontal stabilizers = no trim
tabs; no stick pressure.
Single seat, so I only have to adjust it for me.
http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/Adjstabil.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
So what was the verdict. What is the best location for the horizontal stab?
>This was an experiment to determine the best location for
>the leading edge. I knew from experience flying the factory
>Mark III, Fat Albert, that it took a lot of nose up trim to
>fly the Mark III at cruise power.
________________________________________________________________________________
Possum
The bracket look real good. My horzonal stab will have to go down a little
from the top on the tail boom to trim out, I have electric trip tab.
Thanks
Wayne B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Possum" <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Heavy stick
>
> >
> >"HI" Rex
> >
> >Could you share some pictures of the new bracket?
> >
> >Thank you
> >Wayne Boyter
>
> I've got a pair on mine that "Adjusts" the horizontal stabilizers = no
trim
> tabs; no stick pressure.
> Single seat, so I only have to adjust it for me.
>
> http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/Adjstabil.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> So what was the verdict. What is the best location for the horizontal stab?
Woody/Gang:
Leading edges lower than what the plans call for, for my
airplane. Probably an inch or two.
You left yourself wide open on that one. :-) I could have
said on the tail, on each side of the tail
boom..............
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Wayne,
The brackets are similar to Possum's. They were not drilled so I
drilled and will placed them to allow adjustment from near the center of
the tube to about 1" above. I'll take a pix & e-mail to you and anyone
else that's interested.
Rex Rodebush
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Heavy stick
"HI" Rex
Could you share some pictures of the new bracket?
Thank you
Wayne Boyter
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Reduction Drive VW Photo |
I have just updated my web site with information and a photo of my new
reduction drive VW engine on my Kolb MKIII classic. The address is:
http://www.geocities.com/neilsenrm/kolb-MKIII.htm
The address also has a link from the Kolb website.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Reduction Drive VW Photo |
Looks good Rick, and it Works ! ! ! Broken Down Lar. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Kolb-List: Reduction Drive VW Photo
>
> I have just updated my web site with information and a photo of my new
> reduction drive VW engine on my Kolb MKIII classic. The address is:
> http://www.geocities.com/neilsenrm/kolb-MKIII.htm
> The address also has a link from the Kolb website.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Gherkins <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com> |
Subject: | Folding Wing Problem |
Kolbers,
Yesterday my uncle and myself installed the equipment to fold the wings
back along the tail tube(wing tangs and the 5/8"cross member in the tail
tube). We were very excited to be able to just fold the wings from now
on when we are done for the day, instead of having to take them
completely off every time we worked on the Mark III Extra.
We pull the main wing pin, walk the wing back a foot or so and start
letting the leading edge swing on the universals toward the ground while
we keep walking back to connect the wing to the tail tube, and, the
starboard wings stops about three feet from the insertion point on the
tail tube.
I asked Craig (uncle) what he was waiting for? He said that he can't
go any further? I am standing right next to the universal and notice
that one of the bolts holding the universal joint together is hitting
the bottom steel root rib and binding, thus keeping the wing from
swinging back and inserting in the 5/8" wing fold tube on the tail. We
stood there stunned, wondering what we did wrong.
Has anyone had this problem before?
We finally had to grind the head of the bolt down to half its thickness
to give us the room to fold the wing. Do you know how hard it is to
grind away on a beautiful A/N bolt head? Not very professional or air
crafty looking either. I wonder if it would pass inspection?
Sure could use some advise or ideas before we attack the other bolt
head.
Thanks,
Tim
simultaneously building a Firestar II (mine) and a Mark III Exrta
(uncles).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Folding Wing Problem |
Tim Gherkins wrote:
>
>
> I am standing right next to the universal and notice
> that one of the bolts holding the universal joint together is hitting
> the bottom steel root rib and binding
Tim,just went downstairs to look at mine --There is approx 3/16"
clearance between the wing root and the inboard clevis half at
the closest point when folded - close enough that it requires me
to install the bolt head down (also unaircrafty) but functional
anyway. Looks like the key here is when assembling and riveting
the drag strut to install the end out enuff. How about using one
of those clip pins in there with the head at the tight side? That
would look a little more pleasing than the ground head thingy.
-BB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Hey Possum,
What are the brackets made out of. stainless or 4130 chrome moly steel. -
There not aluminum I know that. There some force there so it has to be
some good stock.
jerryb
>
> >
> >"HI" Rex
> >
> >Could you share some pictures of the new bracket?
> >
> >Thank you
> >Wayne Boyter
>
>I've got a pair on mine that "Adjusts" the horizontal stabilizers = no trim
>tabs; no stick pressure.
>Single seat, so I only have to adjust it for me.
>
>http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/Adjstabil.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Gherkins <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com> |
Subject: | Re: Folding Wing Problem |
Bob,
Thanks for the quick reply.
We thought that we rigged the wings too close to the fuselage as well, but, if
we had installed the drag strut attachment out further, that would have made
our Main wing pin tang miss the fuselage tang, or created a problem with
forward sweeping wings. No, we nailed the wing rigging and followed the
instruction manual to the closest detail. We also had to turn the bolt head
down like yourself, because the nut protruded even more.
I wish we had the clearance of yours (3/16"), but we don't. I have seen many
Kolbs, but never folded, so I never had the chance to compare and contrast.
I can't imagine that this is a normal problem with Kolb wing fold set up.
That is why we stood there dumb founded and started second guessing ourselves,
and start posting questions to the list. We thought about the pin as well,
and that my be our only option, unless other suggestions come down the pike.
Thanks again Bob for checking and suggesting,
Tim
Bob Bean wrote:
>
> Tim Gherkins wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I am standing right next to the universal and notice
> > that one of the bolts holding the universal joint together is hitting
> > the bottom steel root rib and binding
>
> Tim,just went downstairs to look at mine --There is approx 3/16"
> clearance between the wing root and the inboard clevis half at
> the closest point when folded - close enough that it requires me
> to install the bolt head down (also unaircrafty) but functional
> anyway. Looks like the key here is when assembling and riveting
> the drag strut to install the end out enuff. How about using one
> of those clip pins in there with the head at the tight side? That
> would look a little more pleasing than the ground head thingy.
> -BB
>
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Hey Possum,
>What are the brackets made out of. stainless or 4130 chrome moly steel. -
>There not aluminum I know that. There some force there so it has to be
>some good stock.
>jerryb
>
They are made of steel - misc. aircraft material laying around
- and they're overbuilt.
I bent the strips around a 5 in tube to get the curve right
(my boom tube is 6 in, but they flex back some). Then cut
the bracket pieces to fit and had them welded together.
Like I say, just had to set it once and could leave it alone
after that, but didn't know how this thing was going to fly
I had made so many changes.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 02/07/02 |
Now the Fat Flying Americans (FFA) are getting involved with Sport
pilot. Wow, everybody has to get in the act. Hope your having a good time.
Thanks for the report.
>
>I am in Ontario CA, attending the USUA annual meeting and the FFA presented
>the new sport proposal. Keep in mind that this is only a proposal and not a
>rule yet. Also keep in mind that I am telling what I thought I heard them
>say and this is not official.
>
>It appears that 103 will not change.
>
>But "listen closely" fat ultralights will not come under 103 and they face
>a new challenge. It sounds to me like the fat ultralight can be
>"registered" but there are some conditions. The pilot of the fat will have
>to have a license (not quite clear what kind) with class III medical or
>valid driver's license. Also the fat ultralight will require FAA
>certification and an annual inspection. It appears that the owner of single
>seat fat ultralight will have to attend a 16 hour maintenance course in
>order to do his own maintained. I am not sure but it sounds like the owner
>of a single place fat ultralight can do his own annual but I got the
>impression the two place must have an annual inspection by someone that has
>attended an 80 hour (that's two weeks) course. The two seat training
>exemption will no longer exist. It also sounds like the BFI and AFI will no
>longer exist and that only a CFI can give training in a certified aircraft
>meaning "A Factory Built Aircraft".
>
>Again, I caution everyone that this is what I heard, but it is not official.
>I would like to hear from anyone else that was there to see what they heard.
>
>Vic Worthington
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "abbygirlk9" <abbygirlk9(at)netzero.net> |
Kolbers,
About a week back I posted a request for the Lord motor mount part #
for the Firestar II. I tagged it to a earlier post by Jeff Jones where
he gave the Lord Corp web site; everyone must have thought that the web
site was the needed answer .....well it ain't! Can you guys help me out
with the part #? My earlier post follows:
I would like to know what the Lord part # is for the motor mounts used
on
the Firestar II; does someone have that part number? I have asked
around
but have not found the #, and the Lord part listing does not say "for
use on
the FSII"!!. Thanks.
Stephen Feldmann
Glendale, AZ 400 hrs build time into the FSII (& counting)
____
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Folding Wing Problem |
Bob,
A version of this happened to me as well, except that all I got was a very
small dent in the root rib from the bolt head. I thought I did everything
else correctly too, and was equally dumbfounded after 3 weeks of rigging and
checking etc...
Finally I noticed that the drag strut fitting was too close to the fuse, and
yet that's where the wing rigging trued out. I've just decided to live with
mine the way it is, and am planning to hangar the plane and not fold it when
stored - I've heard that this is the way the structure is happiest and best
supported, and I also won't have to rig the wings each time I fly - I think
there's a measure of safety there as well.
That's not much help, but that's what happened when I rigged my MIII, and
tried to fold for the first time.
Best of luck.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Gherkins" <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Folding Wing Problem
>
> Bob,
> Thanks for the quick reply.
> We thought that we rigged the wings too close to the fuselage as well,
but, if
> we had installed the drag strut attachment out further, that would have
made
> our Main wing pin tang miss the fuselage tang, or created a problem with
> forward sweeping wings. No, we nailed the wing rigging and followed the
> instruction manual to the closest detail. We also had to turn the bolt
head
> down like yourself, because the nut protruded even more.
>
> I wish we had the clearance of yours (3/16"), but we don't. I have seen
many
> Kolbs, but never folded, so I never had the chance to compare and
contrast.
> I can't imagine that this is a normal problem with Kolb wing fold set up.
> That is why we stood there dumb founded and started second guessing
ourselves,
> and start posting questions to the list. We thought about the pin as
well,
> and that my be our only option, unless other suggestions come down the
pike.
>
> Thanks again Bob for checking and suggesting,
> Tim
>
>
> Bob Bean wrote:
>
> >
> > Tim Gherkins wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > I am standing right next to the universal and notice
> > > that one of the bolts holding the universal joint together is hitting
> > > the bottom steel root rib and binding
> >
> > Tim,just went downstairs to look at mine --There is approx 3/16"
> > clearance between the wing root and the inboard clevis half at
> > the closest point when folded - close enough that it requires me
> > to install the bolt head down (also unaircrafty) but functional
> > anyway. Looks like the key here is when assembling and riveting
> > the drag strut to install the end out enuff. How about using one
> > of those clip pins in there with the head at the tight side? That
> > would look a little more pleasing than the ground head thingy.
> > -BB
> >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Folding Wing Problem |
Tim,
I had the same problem on my Mark III classic but not as bad. I only had to
turn the bolt around. My wings do not fold all the way to the tail boom. I
built a dolly to support the tail boom and has wing saddles about 3 feet
apart to support the wings. I think the problem is probably in the tail boom
not being exactly straight with the fuselage cage and the wings are squared
off of the rear of the tail boom. If the jig is off very slightly when the
cage is welded it could cause this problem.
Steven green
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
The trim system on a J-3 cub is that the leading edge support for the
horizontal is a bracket mounted on a jack screw which you can run up or down
a number of INCHES with a crank in the cabin. I figured if you could trim a
Cub like that why not a Kolb? Mine has been up 1+ !/4"Since 1999.I think it
lessens the angle of attack enough to make it a little quicker as well.G.Aman
FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Kroll" <skroll(at)dellepro.com> |
Subject: | Re: leading edge damage |
Hey Erich and Kolbers
I have decided to go ahead and replace to the outer end of the front
spar and only have one splice. Hell, we have to take everything loose
anyway. The hard part here NOW is drilling the steel rivits back out.
I am busting bits right and left. I've used regular steel bits
(hardened) and Cobalt bits so far. Neither of them is worth a crap for
drilling out the steel rivits....aluminum...sure (like the fabric
rivits) They come out easy. The next step is the titanium bits. I
hope those will make the job easier. Anybody else in here ever drilled
lots of rivits back out of your Kolb? What did YOU use for drill bits??
By the way, the LTUG gathering will be at Bowie Munincipal airport.
Bowie, Texas this year instead of Sheppard Annex at Texoma and will be
held the 2nd weekend in June (I believe starting the 6th) I'll firm the
date up later. Bowie is a nice little town about 30 miles NW of Decatur
and they are happy to have us. There is also something else going on in
Bowie that weekend so there should be lots to do for the non-flyers
also. Bowie also has motels and there will be lots of room for
"rustic" camping on the airport property and some electrical hookups.
The airport area is much larger than Sheppard Annex and there are much
fewer trees around so I believe this will serve our needs much better in
terms of safety.
Steve Kroll
1988 Mk2 (repairing leading edge)
----- Original Message -----
From: erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
To: Steve Kroll
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: leading edge damage
Did I hear you say you stripped the WHOLE wing? Yikes, you're scaring
me
some more!
What's done is done, and perhaps you had good reason, but my
understanding
is that you don't need to strip any more than necessary to get at the
rivets, then just patch to cover whatever you removed. I guess were
back
to the same issue, since this method would leave a visible seam in the
fabric, but it sure would save a lot of work.
What are your thoughts on that?
I think I'm going to attend the USUA convention in Ontario, CA this
weekend
since I'm not all that far away. FAA reps are supposed to attend, so
I may
be able to hear first hand their view on Sport Pilot and report back
to you
and the Kolb list.
The reluctant repairman,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
"Steve Kroll"
pro.com> cc:
Subject: Re: leading edge
damage
02/04/02
02:10 PM
I havn't looked at all the details yet of Sport Pilot yet Erich but if
what
you say is true about the maintenance, I expect there will be a lot of
disagreememt from the lite folks.
About the splice: Yep...we are running on the same track now. The
outside
piece would be just to get rid of the edges of the splice. To me,
that
sounds like the best (looking) fix. If I've got one wing completely
stripped and ready to cut the splice. The hardest part is over
(cutting
into the fabric) and the rest is just getting it done. I hope we
don't
have to buy a whole length of tubing (12 foot)for each size but,
whatever
we gotta do, we gotta do. I was going to suggest a race but you only
got
one wing to do:) Hey, how bout a spiffy new wing paintjob while we're
at
it. My bird is solid white so anything goes with me.
have fun,
Erich
----- Original Message -----
From: erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
To: skroll(at)dellepro.com
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 9:30 PM
Subject: leading edge damage
Steve:
Neither John nor Ben mentioned anything to me about an outside piece
put
over the top, but that idea sounds fine to me. As I understand it,
the
outside piece would cover only the exposed portion of the splice
piece,
and
its sole purpose would be to hide the lip between the leading edge
tubing
and the splice piece.
OK, Im confident I can do it right now!
Have you checked out the proposed Sport Pilot rule at
www.sportpilot.org
yet?
Im a little concerned that as proposed, we would not be able to work
on
our
planes ourselves, short of taking an 80 hr training course, if it
were
even
available!
regards,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: leading edge damage |
> The hard part here NOW is drilling the steel rivits back out.
> I am busting bits right and left.
> Steve Kroll
Steve/Gang:
> Anybody else in here ever drilled
> lots of rivits back out of your Kolb?
To answer the above question, YES. I drilled out hundreds
of SS revets during the repair of the left wing on Miss
P'fer after the unfortunate mishap at Muncho Lake, BC, 1
July 2001. Before that, many more drilled out during
repairs and rebuilds on my other airplanes.
> What did YOU use for drill bits??
I use cheap Chinamanese bits from Harbor Freight, 1/8", buy
them by the gross (12 ea to a pack).
The secret to drilling out steel pop rivets, or aluminum
with steel mandrels is:
First: Take an old mandrel and use it as a punch to knock
out the mandrel in the rivet. The mandrel is heat treated
and extremely hard. That is what is eating up your bits,
not the SS rivet. Make a tool our of an old hacksaw blade
by grinding a "V" in the end of it to put pressure under the
lip of the rivet. This will keep it from spinning. Be
patient and do one rivet at a time. You will eventually
finish the task. Be careful and don't screw up the hole.
Second: Do a search in the archives. I have a long
explanation about rivet removal in there somewhere.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
> It appears that the owner of single seat fat ultralight will have to
attend a 16 hour maintenance course in order to do his own maintained. I
am not sure but it sounds like the owner of a single place fat ultralight
can do his own annual but I got the
impression the two place must have an annual inspection by someone that
has attended an 80 hour (that's two weeks) course.
Vic Worthington>
The way the NPRM reads, we can only do inspections and no repair work.
Any repair work would have to be done by the guy that took the 80 hour
course. I thought this was cleared up, but the NPRM states "inspections"
not repair work.
What bothers me about this is not being able to do my own work, unless I
get the 80 hours (which will be expensive), but if I want to make
something for the plane like a new gap seal, or new lift struts (like a
did last year), will I have to get it signed off by an A&P?
In my opinion, any person that built a Firestar (or any other
construction plane), should be granted the repairmans certificate without
taking any coursework.
Here's another twist in the Sport Pilot NPRM:
The following exchange is from the trike list. It examines The Sport
Pilot issue from another perspective from what we see here on this list.
The first letter from Ed Dart has a lot of truth in it based on the few
letters sent to the DOT that you can read yourself commenting about the
proposed Sport Pilot regulations. Several GA pilots want the weight
limits raised to 1700 lbs. or higher so it includes for example the
Luscombe 8 series, the Cessna 120-140 series, the Aeronca 7-11 series,
Piper J and PA series,and simple home builts such as the Hatz CB-1.
Another GA pilot says he feels the Class III Medical is a "useless
regulatory burden for pilots flying 2 and 4 place light aircraft for
pleasure." The only exception is when the flight is for charitable
airlifts, aerobatics, business flying and similar matters. The second
letter takes a different spin. Well worth reading. Raymond
I think this is going to end up being a change in the rules to allow GA
to build less complicated (less safer) GA planes, as opposed to making
ULs a little safer. Further it is designed for GA pilots who can't get
there medical any more, now will be Sport Pilots I don't think getting
better UL training is now the goal only a byproduct. Ed Dart
************************************************
Ed and List,
I think it's normal for people to view the world from their personal
perspective. It was the same in the military (fighters vs.transports,
Navy
vs. AF, everybody worried about Congressional funding), the airlines (how
the economic pie is sliced, FAA rules, contract discussions), trikes vs 3
axis (we're all familiar with this perspective), hang gliders (who are
scared spitless their tugs will be regulated out of existence), and now
GA. I think this has been an issue with GA as well as us all along. We
just tend to think of ourselves. One of my friends who is trying to get
his
medical back after heart surgery is afraid he'll never be able to fly his
Fleet he's spent years restoring (it is beautiful) and unfortunately, it
is
too heavy for SP. It's performance is less than some of the light planes
Rob sells, but it's not a fair world. I don't think that better UL
training
was ever the only goal, just one of the goals. I think that one of the
primary goals was to make aviation more affordable for more people. The
transition to expensive flying was insidious and went like this:
Back in the 50's, people flew Cubs and Taylorcrafts on weekends and
evenings and had a ball. Their performance was similar to the UL of
today. Those same folks decided that if they bought that shiny new
Cessna 170 or 180, or Mooney or Bonanza, they could go farther, faster,
etc. These airplanes required more training, avionics, upkeep. Taking a
Bonanza for a spin in the evening wasn't as much fun, so they sat in
hangars waiting for the next big trip. Pilot training became more
expensive as all private pilots were prospective high performance
airplane pilots (either as renters or owners) and needed some night and
instrument nav training. More bookwork was required, and thus more time.
Flying into Meigs or larger airports isn't a small undertaking, and the
pilot had to be trained to be able to do that. I think Sport Pilot is an
attempt to go back to that era of affordable Sunday afternoon fun flying,
pancake breakfasts, watching the sunset. I think Rec Pilot flopped
because it was too close to PP in requirements. Sport Pilot
may flop, too, but at least I can see a difference in training
requirements
and think I understand what they're trying to do, which is to limit
airplane
performance and pilot tasking. And now you're logging flight time in a
"real airplane" (All it takes is an N number) so if you decide to upgrade
to PP or even a Commercial later, you're building time. What if you
decide someday you'd like to fly for a living. This time counts as
compared to the time in your UL logbook which counts zero.
Now, look at a 912 powered trike and see if you note a similar trend in
complexity rise from those first ULs that flew off hills and were foot
launched. We've done the same thing; we added a motor, then wheels, then
a radio and bigger gas tank, started mixing with GA traffic, flying X/C,
etc., etc. It is apparently human nature. If you don't want pilot
training and maintenance training, then don't carry pax or fly over
congested areas, just fly your single seat 103 compliant UL in the
country.
Best regards,
Jim Bair
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JOHN M. COOLEY" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Subject: | Re: leading edge damage |
Hi Steve and Gang,
I am currently rebuilding a MK II Twinstar and have drilled out
approximately 700 of the regular steel rivets that the old Kolbs where built
with. I have been using the Black and Decker bullet point bits with no
problem. The mandrels in the old steel rivets haven't posed a problem for
me. I did have to drill out some of the stainless rivets that the new Kolbs
use when I was building my Firestar II and they are much harder to drill,
especially the mandrel. Some "Tap Magic" cutting fluid helps alot. Good luck
on your repair.
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II 503 DCDI, rebuilding MK II Twinstar
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: leading edge damage
>
> I have decided to go ahead and replace to the outer end of the front
> spar and only have one splice. Hell, we have to take everything loose
> anyway. The hard part here NOW is drilling the steel rivits back out.
> I am busting bits right and left. I've used regular steel bits
> (hardened) and Cobalt bits so far. Neither of them is worth a crap for
> drilling out the steel rivits....aluminum...sure (like the fabric
> rivits) They come out easy. The next step is the titanium bits. I
> hope those will make the job easier. Anybody else in here ever drilled
> lots of rivits back out of your Kolb? What did YOU use for drill bits??
>
> Steve Kroll
> 1988 Mk2 (repairing leading edge)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Crying Over Sport Pilot |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
This is from another list. Good discussion.
Ralph
----- Forwarded Message -----
>Several have said words to this effect: "there will be hundreds maybe
thousands with 2 seat 503 powered ppcs whose owners will not want to deal
with sport pilot "
>Seriously guys, let's get off this doomsday attitude. It simply will not
be as bad as you guys think. I've been thru the GA pilot hoops and this
Sport Pilot thing will be a walk in the park even if you have to do it
from scratch blindfolded. Give yourselves some credit for possessing some
intelligence and skill. You CAN do it. Besides as the FAA has done in the
past with multiengine, seaplane and many other ratings, all those who
have been doing it prior to the new rules and have reasonable logbooks to
show
they have will be essentially automatically grandfathered in. You guys
are crying over absolutely nothing here. Of course if you panic and do
bail out, those of us who stick it out will reap the rewards. Don't let
that happen. You CAN do it. Have a little self confidence and faith in
yourself. I know most of you have the right stuff for this. Don't throw
the baby out with the bathwater. The FAA was either going to shut off the
fat ULs altogether or have some sort of organized regulation. That is
essentially their mandate. Having dealt with them for many years I can
say they ain't all that bad if you keep your nose clean. In fact they can
be very helpful and supportive. Stop giving them a bum rap and try to get
with the program.>
************************************************
Chris writes in response....I've heard that some slaves in the Old South
grew to love their masters. I guess it's true.
In the roughly thirty years that I have been flying, I have yet to hear a
single pilot step forward and say how glad he was to have the FAA around.
"Helpful and supportive?" Under the FAA's enlightened attitude, General
Aviation has been steadily dying in this country. Now ultralighting will
be brought under the same banner.
I suppose that compared to Hitler's Gestapo, the FAA isn't so bad, but
that's not saying much. The FAA is one of the most despised government
organizations in the country. Only the IRS is more disliked.
If one looks at how badly the FAA set up the "Recreational Pilot" rating,
and how they have stifled general aviation, and how they know nothing of
ultralight flying (based on the unrealistic requirements of the Sport
Pilot rating), I cannot imagine how ANYONE could claim the FAA is
"helpful and supportive." My God, this is the organization won't even
define what a "congested area" is, but they are quite willing to fine you
if you violate one.
Ultralight flying was originally started up to re-invigorate the flying
business that had grown stale and moribund. The whole idea was to make
flying possible for the average person WITHOUT extensive and expensive
training, and WITHOUT costly inspections and maintenance, and WITHOUT the
heavy hand of government regulation. Now it looks like the FAA is
prepared to throw all this away, and make ultralights the poor relation
of the General Aviation world.
We should be pressuring the FAA to keep ultralighting APART from the
General Aviation world; not become a part of it.
Marty seems to be quite comfortable, in general, with government
regulation. He doesn't seem to care much for the free market It's true
that you can get used to
almost anything, if you have to. And it's also true that even if Sport
Pilot becomes a reality, ultralighting will go on, just as General
Aviation has gone on. It's even true that most of us will be able to
qualify for the Sport Pilot rating. But as usual, Marty is only thinking
range-of-the-moment, and misses the real, long-term problem.
The real problem is that the sport won't be the ultralighting we've all
come to know and love. It will be a whole new ballgame. It will become
like General Aviation; stodgy and stifled, lacking innovation, and just
selling the same old product year after year, decade after decade. The
first casualty of government regulation is innovation, which becomes too
expensive for most people. Sure, the guys who just want to make a buck
will still be around to sell us stuff, but the guys who do it for the
pure love of flying, will quit and go elsewhere. This is the true,
hidden cost
of government regulation. The best minds will refuse to work under
censorship or regulation.
But there will be plenty of mediocrities to take their place.>
Chris Wolf
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
Subject: | Re: USUA convention/sport pilot |
02/10/2002 10:27:41 PM
Greetings.
I just returned from attending the USUA convention in Ontario CA and
thought I would share my
findings regarding Sport Pilot. This information comes from my reading of
the NPRM and from
the question and answer forum with the FAA representatives that was held
Saturday afternoon.
What everyone needs to understand is that the planes like those flown and
discussed by our list
members will typically fall into one of FOUR distinct categories after the
rule goes into effect: (1)
those that meet the rigid Part 103 criteria (single place, less than
250-some lbs, etc) can continue
to operate as ultralight vehicles - no N number or other changes required.
(2) Those that have
already N-numbered under ?Experimental, amateur built aircraft? will also
continue as before. (3)
those with EXISTING two-place and/or fat ultralights will be required to
become ?experimental
lite-sport aircraft?. (4) Those who choose to purchase a ready-to-fly plane
AFTER the rule goes
into affect will be in the ?Special lite-sport aircraft? category. Each of
the above categories have
their own rules!
Those of us that fall under #3 and# 4 above will have to become ?Sport
Pilots.? To become a
sport pilot you will have to pass a ?knowledge? (written) test, and a
?practical (flying) test. FAA
envisions that current AFIs will become ?FAA-designated examiners? and that
they will in most
cases be the people signing us off on our practical test. For those of us
with single-place fat
ultralights, it is possible that the practical test could be conducted with
you flying your own plane
and the examiner watching from the ground, but this was not in anyway
guaranteed by the FAA
when I questioned them about this. The primary thing you get out of being a
Sport Pilot is that
you can legally have a second person along for a ride. No BFI or other
instruction rating
required. There will be NO MORE EXEMPTIONS under the Part 103 ultralight
rules. This also
applies to hang gliders, gliders, etc.
If you fall under #3 (experimental light-sport aircraft), you WILL be able
to work on your own
plane. I personally asked Sue Gardner of the FAA about this. You will have
to have annual
inspections done, which will require that you either get an AP or find a
repairman with an
inspection rating. This inspection rating will require a 16-hr course.
If you are a BFI, you have your own two-place plane, and want to continue
to instruct, you will
need to change your plane to an experimental lite-sport aircraft and become
a sport pilot
instructor (relatively easy to do if you are already a BFI). However, you
will only be able to use
your own existing plane for instructional purposes for three years after
the rule goes into effect.
After three years, you would have to buy a new plane to instruct in;
specifically, a ?special lite-
sport aircraft? (i.e. one built to specs and manufactured ready-to-fly).
Interestingly, if you were
to sell your ?experimental lite sport aircraft? to another individual, you
could legally then train
them in it, even after the 3 years is up, since the plane is no longer
owned by you (This too comes
directly from Sue Gardener of FAA in response to my question). Everyone
with me here?
If you buy a new, ready to fly, lite sport aircraft after the rule goes
into effect, (#4 above) you
WILL NOT be able to work on your plane yourself unless you get training to
become a repairman
with a maintenance rating (80-hour course). Inspections will also be
necessary, as for the
experimental lite sport aircraft. Plan on paying a premium for those new,
?special lite-sport
aircraft? since they will be ready to fly, and made to FAA-approved
standards. If there is a bright
spot on this issue, its that FAA appears willing to work with industry in
coming up with
manageable standards for manufacturing of special lite-sport aircraft. Use
of only GA-type
certified engines would not likely be required for example.
There are many other issues, but I think the above are probably the main
ones that will affect most
of us. I would be happy to explain further as I am able to. You should
also all be aware that the
FAA will answer all questions submitted to them, and the NPRM lists phone
numbers for Sue
Gardener and others for this purpose.
After reading the NPRM and talking to the FAA reps, I am of the opinion
that they are being
pretty reasonable with this, and really want something that we all can
accept and make work. The
light-plane industry people that spoke at the convention also expressed
that opinion as well. Lets
hope that sentiment can continue into the future.
Sorry for the long windedness. Hope someone is listening out there!
Regards to all,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JOHN M. COOLEY" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Subject: | Re: Folding Wing Problem |
Hi Tim and Gang,
I had this very same thing happen to me when rigging out my FS II. I spent
a lot of time rigging, pulling strings, checking with digital level,
measuring etc. I probably spent two days going over and over this to make
sure everything was a good as it could be. After I was finally satisfied
with the rigging and went to fold the wings..........well let's just say it
was just about enough to make Brother Pike cuss (just kidding Richard).
Anyway to make a long story short I contacted TNK and got new drag strut
fittings and four new tabs to weld on at the front attachment point as
recommended by Kolb, two per inboard wing rib on each side of the existing
tab. These new tabs extend out further than the old ones did and yes they
are welded to the main support of the steel rib. I then went to rigging the
wings again, but this time I made sure to attach the drag strut fitting so
that the bolt head in the universal joint would just clear the steel inboard
wing rib in the folded position. I then redrilled the main tabs after
aligning everything to my satisfaction. This was very flustrating and set me
back several weeks by the time it was all said and done. In your uncles case
it sounds like you will be ok. I have seen AN bolts with thinner heads. I
don't know how common this is but I think the bolt in question is only under
shear pressure so the head thickness shouldn't be a problem. Good luck and I
hope you find an easy solution.
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II 503 DCDI and rebuilding MK II Twinstar
>
> Kolbers,
> Yesterday my uncle and myself installed the equipment to fold the wings
> back along the tail tube(wing tangs and the 5/8"cross member in the tail
> tube). We were very excited to be able to just fold the wings from now
> on when we are done for the day, instead of having to take them
> completely off every time we worked on the Mark III Extra.
>
> We pull the main wing pin, walk the wing back a foot or so and start
> letting the leading edge swing on the universals toward the ground while
> we keep walking back to connect the wing to the tail tube, and, the
> starboard wings stops about three feet from the insertion point on the
> tail tube.
>
> I asked Craig (uncle) what he was waiting for? He said that he can't
> go any further? I am standing right next to the universal and notice
> that one of the bolts holding the universal joint together is hitting
> the bottom steel root rib and binding, thus keeping the wing from
> swinging back and inserting in the 5/8" wing fold tube on the tail. We
> stood there stunned, wondering what we did wrong.
>
> Has anyone had this problem before?
>
> We finally had to grind the head of the bolt down to half its thickness
> to give us the room to fold the wing. Do you know how hard it is to
> grind away on a beautiful A/N bolt head? Not very professional or air
> crafty looking either. I wonder if it would pass inspection?
>
> Sure could use some advise or ideas before we attack the other bolt
> head.
>
> Thanks,
> Tim
> simultaneously building a Firestar II (mine) and a Mark III Exrta
> (uncles).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Carr" <dcarr(at)uniontel.net> |
Subject: | Flying Sport Lite A/C with Private License |
Has anyone heard whether the Private Pilot license can be used as a Sport
Pilot License without a medical but with a drivers license?
I am to heavy for the part 103 a/c and am having a battle for my medical
after angioplasty and a stent. Doctors say I am fine but FAA not sure.
Medical is real a pain when we get older. I can still use my cdl (over the
road trucking) but not my pilots license.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Re: Flying Sport Lite A/C with Private License |
>
> Has anyone heard whether the Private Pilot license can be used as a Sport
> Pilot License without a medical but with a drivers license?
>
You betcha, Dave, (within the paramters of Sport Pilot). as per the NPRM
as it stands now. I quote from www.sportpilot.org this info:
5. If you hold a current and valid FAA pilot certificate-private pilot or
higher-and have pilot-in-command experience in the category/class and make
and model aircraft that you wish to operate while exercising the privileges
of a sport pilot certificate, you must have a logbook endorsement* from an
authorized instructor certifying that you are proficient in the make and
model of aircraft. A current flight review in that make and model aircraft
satisfies this requirement. (Note: If you choose to fly a light-sport
aircraft while exercising the privileges of your private pilot, or higher,
certificate, you do not need to meet this make/model requirement.)
The other major area of change is in the medical certificate. To obtain a
sport pilot certificate you must either have a FAA airman medical
certificate [FAR 67] or a current and valid U.S. driver's license [Section
15, SFAR 89] issued by a state, the District of Columbia, Puerto Rico, a
territory, a possession, or the Federal government.
<>
Please, use this website as the source of the current NPRM rule
interpretations, and read it in its entirety. It will also explain the
maintenance/inspection requirements on your Kolb, (if you built it).... and
registered as Sport Pilot plane, you need a 16 hr course. If you registered
it as experimental (the old fashioned way) you are governed by the original
rules. Pretty CLEAR from reading the website, IMHO! For those of us over
20 years old.... the medical thing is a BLESSING compared to the current
rules.
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flying Sport Lite A/C with Private License |
Hi Dave,
Go to this web site you will find you answers there.
http://www.sportpilot.org/nprm/student_pilot_cert.html
Paragraph 7 I think covers it.( I copied it below.)
7. If you are the holder of a private pilot, or higher, certificate and wish
to exercise the privileges of a sport pilot certificate to add another
category/class of aircraft your must complete the training requirements for
that category/class [Sections 51-57 of SFAR 89].
Good Luck
Guy Swenson
MK III Xtra N3053B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Carr" <dcarr(at)uniontel.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Flying Sport Lite A/C with Private License
>
> Has anyone heard whether the Private Pilot license can be used as a Sport
> Pilot License without a medical but with a drivers license?
>
> I am to heavy for the part 103 a/c and am having a battle for my medical
> after angioplasty and a stent. Doctors say I am fine but FAA not sure.
> Medical is real a pain when we get older. I can still use my cdl (over the
> road trucking) but not my pilots license.
>
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Flying Sport Lite A/C with Private License |
How does this work for someone like me? I am building a FireStar as a one
place aircrsft. There is no way an instructor could give me a flight check
in this thing. Even if I had the back seat in it, it would not be dual
control.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, February 11, 2002 00:34:45
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Flying Sport Lite A/C with Private License
>
> Has anyone heard whether the Private Pilot license can be used as a Sport
> Pilot License without a medical but with a drivers license?
>
You betcha, Dave, (within the paramters of Sport Pilot). as per the NPRM
as it stands now. I quote from www.sportpilot.org this info:
5. If you hold a current and valid FAA pilot certificate-private pilot or
higher-and have pilot-in-command experience in the category/class and make
and model aircraft that you wish to operate while exercising the privileges
of a sport pilot certificate, you must have a logbook endorsement* from an
authorized instructor certifying that you are proficient in the make and
model of aircraft. A current flight review in that make and model aircraft
satisfies this requirement. (Note: If you choose to fly a light-sport
aircraft while exercising the privileges of your private pilot, or higher,
certificate, you do not need to meet this make/model requirement.)
The other major area of change is in the medical certificate. To obtain a
sport pilot certificate you must either have a FAA airman medical
certificate [FAR 67] or a current and valid U.S. driver's license [Section
15, SFAR 89] issued by a state, the District of Columbia, Puerto Rico, a
territory, a possession, or the Federal government.
<>
Please, use this website as the source of the current NPRM rule
interpretations, and read it in its entirety. It will also explain the
maintenance/inspection requirements on your Kolb, (if you built it).... and
registered as Sport Pilot plane, you need a 16 hr course. If you registered
it as experimental (the old fashioned way) you are governed by the original
rules. Pretty CLEAR from reading the website, IMHO! For those of us over
20 years old.... the medical thing is a BLESSING compared to the current
rules.
Jon
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Subject: | Ultrastar rigging |
I just measured the angle between the bottom of the wing and the
thrust line of the engine and came up with about 3 degrees difference.
This ultrastar is faster than it is suppose to be, 60mph (GPS verified
no wind) with 5000 rpm on a Cuyuna UL 202 (70 degrees ,standard
pressure). I do have a Firestar type nose with a windshield that
streamlines it considerably and have flown with a 447 powered Firestar
and was able to cruise faster with less power. Is this because of the
engine and fuselage drag combination or this angle relationship between
the wing and the thrust line? It seems the Firestar is in the 5 or 6
degree range. Should I change the angle on the Ultrastar to 5 degrees
which will probably decrease my takeoff roll and climb performance and
slow my cruise? Is there a safety issue here in relation to aerodynamics
or am I nitpicking. I never was a hotrodder and am not interested in
speed ( my go cart is faster than yours) Any body play with this thrust
line angle on an Ultrastar ?
Thanks,
Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
I also have a very heavy nose on my Firestar. I've adjusted my ailerons
but I'm thinking of moving the horizontal stabilizer. Can you advise me on
which direction I need to move it to bring the nose more neutral.
-----Original Message-----
From: Possum [mailto:possums(at)mindspring.com]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Heavy stick
>
>"HI" Rex
>
>Could you share some pictures of the new bracket?
>
>Thank you
>Wayne Boyter
I've got a pair on mine that "Adjusts" the horizontal stabilizers = no trim
tabs; no stick pressure.
Single seat, so I only have to adjust it for me.
http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/Adjstabil.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> John, What was the welding all about? Noticed your gear legs seem to be
> longer, I like that. Frame mods or weld improvements or from scratch
> build?
> Monte in Geoorgetown Tx.
Monte/Gang:
Brother Jim helped Kolb Co with some welding in 1991. I
went up and stayed the month of Feb 91, to give Homer a hand
and begin construction of my Mark III. Mission of the Mark
III was two fold: 1) Fly to Point Barrow, Alaska, via the
border of the CONUS and 2) hopefully garner OSH Grand Champ
Lt Plane.
Experience flying the factory Mark III, Fat Albert, helped
us make decisions on what we needed to change to help me and
the airplane have a better chance of accomplishing our
mission.
Major changes were:
Moved the main gear forward 8 inches.
Fabricated heat treated 4130 steel landing gear legs
designed to raise the nose in a good three point stance.
Hard seats (actually a pair of Ultrastar seats I found in
the attic of the Kolb barn).
Dual controls (the first as far as I know).
Moved the fuel tank to the open area behind the cockpit to
open up the bottom for storage. Welded up .050 5052 alum 25
gal tank.
There are a lot of other less dramatic changes that I will
not take the time to list now (some of them I can not
remember).
Rather than take a complete kit, cut it up, and apply our
mods, we built my airplane from scratch. Saved us a lot of
time and Homer Kolb some money.
I flew yesterday afternoon. The old Mark III is still as
sweet now as it was on her first flight 9 years ago.
john h
Airframe: 1660 hours
912S: 314 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Subject: | Hobbs Wiring Question |
Kolb Friends -
I'm happy to report that, following 6 successful engine test runs,
everything finally works with my engine and related systems (prop pitch,
ignition system, fuel delivery, instruments, etc.). Except the Hobbs.
The yellow builder's manual supplement for the Mark-3 shows how to wire the
Hobbs to run off the AC current that comes from the lighting coil. It
specifies a Radio Shack full-wave rectifier be wired between the lighting
coil wires and the meter itself. This way, the Hobbs will only clock time
when the engine is running.
Well, I did it this way and my Hobbs (which is brand new) does not work.
So I'm looking (begging?) for advice from our List electrical experts.
Here's what I think may be contributing to the problem:
1) I suspect the Hobbs diagram in the manual supplement was published for
the Rotax-582 engine. Is it possible that my alternator's 70 watt output is
not enough power for the Radio Shack rectifier specified?
2) Another possible culprit: The AC wires that go into my rectifier are
not solely dedicated to that rectifier. I only have one pair of lighting
coil wires going to the instrument panel, and these go to the tach. From
the 2 terminals on the back of the tach , I installed 2 jumper wires that go
to the bridge rectifier. Is it possible this is somehow messing up the AC
signal before it gets to the rectifier?
I'd really like to figure out how to make this work, rather than just wiring
my Hobbs to DC current, because I'm the kind of forgetful type who would
leave the master switch on and rack up tons of bogus Hobbs hours. Need to
have the Hobbs run only when the engine is operating.
Many thanks for any advice!
Dennis Kirby
Mk-3, Verner-1400, Powerfin-72, not flying yet in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com> |
Subject: | Folding Wing Problem |
Thanks I'll let you know how it goes
Ken James
Drafting Design Instructor
Berks Career and Technology Center
3307 Freidensburg Rd.
Oley Pa. 19547
610-987-6201 Ext 3532
Kdjames(at)berkscareer.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Flying Sport Lite A/C with Private License |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
I think you will be fine without an endorsement because you will not be
carrying passengers. If you need an endorsement, you can always talk an
instructor into watching you make a few landings.
I'm in the same boat. Im rebuilding a Twinstar as a single place. I'm
going to fly it as a UL and see how it goes. It will be more legal than my
Phantom from a weight perspective, and I've been flying that for 3 years
now.
I don't understand how Phantom can advertise that their planes are 103
legal. Mine has a 503 and the bare essentials for instruments, and it is
around 80lbs over.
I have a theory. I think that the FAA might start cracking down of all
these fat UL's since there is now a class for them that just about anyone
can qualify for.
Ross
> From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 05:10:32 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Flying Sport Lite A/C with Private License
>
>
> How does this work for someone like me? I am building a FireStar as a one
> place aircrsft. There is no way an instructor could give me a flight check
> in this thing. Even if I had the back seat in it, it would not be dual
> control.
>
> Ron Payne
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, February 11, 2002 00:34:45
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Flying Sport Lite A/C with Private License
>
>
>
>>
>> Has anyone heard whether the Private Pilot license can be used as a Sport
>> Pilot License without a medical but with a drivers license?
>>
> You betcha, Dave, (within the paramters of Sport Pilot). as per the NPRM
> as it stands now. I quote from www.sportpilot.org this info:
> 5. If you hold a current and valid FAA pilot certificate-private pilot or
> higher-and have pilot-in-command experience in the category/class and make
> and model aircraft that you wish to operate while exercising the privileges
> of a sport pilot certificate, you must have a logbook endorsement* from an
> authorized instructor certifying that you are proficient in the make and
> model of aircraft. A current flight review in that make and model aircraft
> satisfies this requirement. (Note: If you choose to fly a light-sport
> aircraft while exercising the privileges of your private pilot, or higher,
> certificate, you do not need to meet this make/model requirement.)
>
> The other major area of change is in the medical certificate. To obtain a
> sport pilot certificate you must either have a FAA airman medical
> certificate [FAR 67] or a current and valid U.S. driver's license [Section
> 15, SFAR 89] issued by a state, the District of Columbia, Puerto Rico, a
> territory, a possession, or the Federal government.
>
> <>
>
> Please, use this website as the source of the current NPRM rule
> interpretations, and read it in its entirety. It will also explain the
> maintenance/inspection requirements on your Kolb, (if you built it).... and
> registered as Sport Pilot plane, you need a 16 hr course. If you registered
> it as experimental (the old fashioned way) you are governed by the original
> rules. Pretty CLEAR from reading the website, IMHO! For those of us over
> 20 years old.... the medical thing is a BLESSING compared to the current
> rules.
>
>
> Jon
>
>
> _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Fw: RE: Sport Pilot |
Here is a reply for the queation I sent to the EAA. Talk about a can of
worms. I can legally fly and carry a pasenger in my FireStar with my
comercial license as long as I fly it as an experamental, but if I want to
down grade my license to a sport pilot license then I have to find an
instructor that has at least 5 hours in a FireStar and have him sign me off
as profecient without him even giving me a check ride. I am still not clear
if the sport pilot license lets you fly an experamental homebullt that fits
the sport light aircraft requirements but has not been regestered as a sport
light aircraft.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: Charlie Becker
Date: Monday, February 11, 2002 12:59:39
Subject: RE: Sport Pilot
John,
Yes, if you are going to operate as a Sport Pilot (e.g. Private Pilot or
higher with a valid drivers license), you will need the make/model
endorsement.
Below is the applicable section of the SFAR:
"Section 65. How do I obtain privileges to operate an additional make and
model of light-sport aircraft?
To operate an additional make and model of light-sport aircraft, you must
receive a logbook endorsement from the authorized instructor who provided
you aircraft-specific training for the additional light-sport aircraft make
and model privileges you seek, certifying you are proficient in that make
and model of light-sport aircraft."
Note that this does not require dual flight instruction but
aircraft-specific training". Therefore it does not require the CFI to
actually fly with you in the aircraft. It does mean that the CFI will have
to have 5 hours in make/model before providing training and signing you off.
We will be working with the FAA to make sure they are aware that some
initial flexibility will be needed on make and model for the CFIs.
Charlie Becker
EAA Aviation Information Services
Ph: 920-426-6530
Fx: 920-426-6560
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron or Mary [mailto:ronormar(at)apex.net]
Subject: Sport Pilot
Would you please clarify something for me. It has been posted on the Kolb
web site that if a person has a private pilot license or higher and wants to
fly under the sport pilots regulations, he would have to get an endorsement
from a flight instructor that he is competent in the aircraft. I am building
a Kolb FireStar as an experimental and it will have only one seat. Even if I
put the rear seat in, it will not have dual controls. I have a commercial
license and can fly this plane as a home built but do I need to get a sport
pilot endorsement for this particular plane to fly it under sport pilot
regulations? If so how do I do that with a single seat aircraft?
John R. Payne
EAA #414520
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fw: RE: Sport Pilot |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
You could always let a trusted CFI go burn off 5 hours in your plane. If I
really need a CFI endorsement to fly my single place plane, that's how I'll
do it.
Ross
> From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 13:26:34 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
> To: "Kolb"
> Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: RE: Sport Pilot
>
>
> Here is a reply for the queation I sent to the EAA. Talk about a can of
> worms. I can legally fly and carry a pasenger in my FireStar with my
> comercial license as long as I fly it as an experamental, but if I want to
> down grade my license to a sport pilot license then I have to find an
> instructor that has at least 5 hours in a FireStar and have him sign me off
> as profecient without him even giving me a check ride. I am still not clear
> if the sport pilot license lets you fly an experamental homebullt that fits
> the sport light aircraft requirements but has not been regestered as a sport
> light aircraft.
>
> Ron Payne
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Charlie Becker
> Date: Monday, February 11, 2002 12:59:39
> To: 'Ron or Mary'
> Subject: RE: Sport Pilot
>
> John,
>
> Yes, if you are going to operate as a Sport Pilot (e.g. Private Pilot or
> higher with a valid drivers license), you will need the make/model
> endorsement.
>
> Below is the applicable section of the SFAR:
> "Section 65. How do I obtain privileges to operate an additional make and
> model of light-sport aircraft?
> To operate an additional make and model of light-sport aircraft, you must
> receive a logbook endorsement from the authorized instructor who provided
> you aircraft-specific training for the additional light-sport aircraft make
> and model privileges you seek, certifying you are proficient in that make
> and model of light-sport aircraft."
> Note that this does not require dual flight instruction but
> aircraft-specific training". Therefore it does not require the CFI to
> actually fly with you in the aircraft. It does mean that the CFI will have
> to have 5 hours in make/model before providing training and signing you off.
> We will be working with the FAA to make sure they are aware that some
> initial flexibility will be needed on make and model for the CFIs.
> Charlie Becker
> EAA Aviation Information Services
> Ph: 920-426-6530
> Fx: 920-426-6560
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron or Mary [mailto:ronormar(at)apex.net]
> To: infoserv(at)eaa.org
> Subject: Sport Pilot
>
>
> Would you please clarify something for me. It has been posted on the Kolb
> web site that if a person has a private pilot license or higher and wants to
> fly under the sport pilots regulations, he would have to get an endorsement
> from a flight instructor that he is competent in the aircraft. I am building
> a Kolb FireStar as an experimental and it will have only one seat. Even if I
> put the rear seat in, it will not have dual controls. I have a commercial
> license and can fly this plane as a home built but do I need to get a sport
> pilot endorsement for this particular plane to fly it under sport pilot
> regulations? If so how do I do that with a single seat aircraft?
>
> John R. Payne
> EAA #414520
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | All this talk about Sport Pilot.... |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
It just dawned on me that our sport pilot planes may need to be registered
as sport pilot planes...Or am I mistaken?
Could I take an experimental plane (registered experimental) and fly it
under sport pilot as long as it meets the criteria for sport pilot?
Can you register a plane in the experimental category, get a repairman's
certificate and fly it under sport pilot with a PPL and a drivers license?
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: All this talk about Sport Pilot.... |
Well said, I think that was the question I was trying to ask but kind of
missed the point. If I have a ATP rating and want to just fly as a
commercial pilot then I can do that with a 2nd class medical. If I want to
fly as a privot pilot then I can do that with a 3rd class mecical. If I
want to down grade to a sport pilot it seems that I cannot do that without
an endorcement by a flight instructor. Doesn't make any since to me.
Ron
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, February 11, 2002 14:11:54
Subject: Kolb-List: All this talk about Sport Pilot....
It just dawned on me that our sport pilot planes may need to be registered
as sport pilot planes...Or am I mistaken?
Could I take an experimental plane (registered experimental) and fly it
under sport pilot as long as it meets the criteria for sport pilot?
Can you register a plane in the experimental category, get a repairman's
certificate and fly it under sport pilot with a PPL and a drivers license?
Ross
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 02/10/02 |
What I heard on maintenance is that the 16 hour course allowed you to work
on your own plane only. The 80 course allowed you to work on other
airplanes.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
Subject: | All this talk about Sport Pilot.... |
Well said, I think that was the question I was trying to ask but kind of
missed the point. If I have a ATP rating and want to just fly as a
commercial pilot then I can do that with a 2nd class medical. If I want to
fly as a privot pilot then I can do that with a 3rd class mecical. If I
want to down grade to a sport pilot it seems that I cannot do that without
an endorcement by a flight instructor. Doesn't make any since to me.
Ron
I think there might be a good reason, that they will require an instructor
signoff for anyone wanting to fly a sport plane. I have seen 2 guys
personally and heard of countless others, who were GA pilots (as I am...so
I'm not putting them down...) and thought that because "ultralights" were so
"simple" that in the words of one of these rocket scientist, "I can fly the
crate it came in...". That particular rocket scientist nailed the throttle
forward real fast in a 2 place Challenger and it accelerated so much faster
than what he was used to and torqued so hard and him having forgot what
rudder pedals were for, he clipped a wing into a tree before he ever got it
off the ground. By design, most certified aircraft have very similar
characteristics, but like our Kolbs, with there low inertia and high
thrustlines...they behave differently than most GA aircraft. I think if
they don't "require" GA guys to get a little instruction in these light
machines, then there will be a rash of tore up birds (and people)...
My $.02 worth...and worth what you paid for it.
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: All this talk about Sport Pilot.... |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Actually, the problem I'm having is with the required endorsement to fly a
single place machine. I can understand the signoff to fly a 2 place
machine. As someone else mentioned...I too have seen high time GA pilots
crash a UL on the first takeoff, but they were alone, flying single place
machines...So what the problem.
Another issue....
What about one off homebuilt designs? How can you get a CFI sign off in a
make and model if you own the only one?
And yet another....
My current project started as a Kolb Twinstar. I ended up scrapping most of
it. I also redesigned the flight controls, built my own motorized flaperon
mixer and am building the cockpit out of advanced composites.
This plane is not really a Kolb. It has Kolb wings and and a Kolb tail
boom, but that's it.
Question....
I'd like to send in for my tail numbers soon. Can I register this plane as
experimental, or is there now a new category of aircraft? If I register as
experimental, will I be screwed from every flying this plane as Sport Pilot?
Ross
> From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:30:05 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: All this talk about Sport Pilot....
>
>
>
> Well said, I think that was the question I was trying to ask but kind of
> missed the point. If I have a ATP rating and want to just fly as a
> commercial pilot then I can do that with a 2nd class medical. If I want to
> fly as a privot pilot then I can do that with a 3rd class mecical. If I
> want to down grade to a sport pilot it seems that I cannot do that without
> an endorcement by a flight instructor. Doesn't make any since to me.
>
> Ron
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, February 11, 2002 14:11:54
> To: Kolb List
> Subject: Kolb-List: All this talk about Sport Pilot....
>
>
> It just dawned on me that our sport pilot planes may need to be registered
> as sport pilot planes...Or am I mistaken?
>
> Could I take an experimental plane (registered experimental) and fly it
> under sport pilot as long as it meets the criteria for sport pilot?
>
> Can you register a plane in the experimental category, get a repairman's
> certificate and fly it under sport pilot with a PPL and a drivers license?
>
> Ross
>
>
> _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: All this talk about Sport Pilot.... |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
>
> I think there might be a good reason, that they will require an instructor
> signoff for anyone wanting to fly a sport plane.
A 2 place sport plane, I agree...But only for non-PPL pilots. They seem to
make no distinction between single and 2 place. They must assume that all
aircraft in this category are 2 place. If they make the rules too
unreasonable to take a fat single place UL into the sport category, no one
will do it. They will just continue flying fat like they have been since
the beginning of time.
If a guy already holds a PPL he should be able to fly any plane that his
ticket says he can fly assuming he has a valid medical. As a private pilot,
I can fly any single engine land or sea plane. I do not need a sign off in
make or model.
I should be able to fly any airplane in the sport category with my PPL and a
drivers license. I do not need a sign off hop in a Cherokee 6 and fly 6
people across the country. Why in blazes should I need a sign off to fly a
little 2 place rig 50 miles from home.
More to the point...Why should I need a sign off to fly my little single
seat homebuilt?
Just as ATP encompasses Commercial...Private Pilot should encompass Sport
Pilot.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
Subject: | Re: All this talk about Sport Pilot.... |
Not quite true. Even flight instructors must receive transition training
when going from one category or class to another.
Sport-pilot has been defined as a category.
Experimental airplanes tend to have some significantly different
aerodynamics than standard airplanes so they many times are not as easy to
transition into without at least a few stalls, steep turns, and take of and
landings.
Since this is a notice of prosposed rule making, now would be the time to
make your comments to the FAA should you disagree.
Keep the ball in the middle.
Bob
CFII,MEI,ASMEL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: All this talk about Sport Pilot....
>
>
> Well said, I think that was the question I was trying to ask but kind of
> missed the point. If I have a ATP rating and want to just fly as a
> commercial pilot then I can do that with a 2nd class medical. If I want
to
> fly as a privot pilot then I can do that with a 3rd class mecical. If I
> want to down grade to a sport pilot it seems that I cannot do that without
> an endorcement by a flight instructor. Doesn't make any since to me.
>
> Ron
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, February 11, 2002 14:11:54
> To: Kolb List
> Subject: Kolb-List: All this talk about Sport Pilot....
>
rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
>
> It just dawned on me that our sport pilot planes may need to be registered
> as sport pilot planes...Or am I mistaken?
>
> Could I take an experimental plane (registered experimental) and fly it
> under sport pilot as long as it meets the criteria for sport pilot?
>
> Can you register a plane in the experimental category, get a repairman's
> certificate and fly it under sport pilot with a PPL and a drivers license?
>
> Ross
>
>
> _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fw: RE: Sport Pilot |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: RE: Sport Pilot
> --> Kolb-List I am still not clear
> if the sport pilot license lets you fly an experamental homebullt that
fits
> the sport light aircraft requirements but has not been regestered as a
sport
> light aircraft.
>
> Ron Payne
Ron,
As I have stated previously, I am no expert on this stuff or even
'enlightened' for that matter....... but I have read
http://www.sportpilot.org/nprm/aircraft_cert.html and I think this addresses
your question:
Note that a student sport pilot or sport pilot may fly an aircraft
certificated with an experimental amateur-built or Standard category
(type-certificated) airworthiness certificate if that aircraft meets the
definition of a light-sport aircraft. There is no need or advantage to
change the airworthiness certificate of such an aircraft. This proposal
makes no changes to the experimental amateur-built rules.
Jon
-----------------------
www.kolbpilot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Verner Photos |
From: | Scott Trask <sctrask(at)diisd.org> |
on 2/9/02 2:01 PM, William George at WGeorge(at)macrev.com wrote:
>
> << Hi Bill
> I took a look at your photos nice job. If I'm looking at it right it
> appears like you have the exhaust mounted to the airframe. If so you are
> going to run into trouble with that set up. There is a lot of energy in line
> of vibration between the engine mount and the airframe that gets absorbed by
> the lord mounts. You're better off to make a bracket from the engine
> frame(the same side as the lord mounts). Please keep a eye on it.
> Scott Trask IMT MK111>>
>
>
> Thanks Scott,
>
> Appreciate the constructive comments from listers. That's what it's all
> about.
>
> I don't have any recent photos of the current exhaust set up. I have posted
> a couple of the original configuration when the installation was still in
> progress. Check the site below.
>
>
> The straps (plumber's tape) are wrapped around pieces of hydraulic hose
> where they attach to the frame. The straps have safety wire threaded through
> the holes to attempt to keep the pieces contained should one crack. The Lord
> mount on the left side has been removed and replaced with a piece of steel
> belted radial tire rubber oriented on the lateral axis. The original was
> beginning to crack due to the vibration axis being perpendicular to the
> rubber.
>
> The exhaust part of the installation is the least satisfying. But, I should
> note the the dealer original installation on the Mk-3 only has a single
> mount at the muffler tab with a piece of tire as the vibration isolator. We
> added a clamp on the other side with another strap to the frame for a bit of
> redundancy.
>
> Suggestions welcome. Thanks again,
>
> Bill George
>
> Mk-3 Verner 1400 Powerfin
> http://homepage.mac.com/wgeorge737/PhotoAlbum1.html
>
>
>
>
Hi Bill
I would still try to mount it on the engine. The distance from the engine
to your frame mounted bracket is far. Every time your engine moves a little,
at the bracket it will move that much greater. I can't see what your engine
is on (above the lord or rubber mounts) but if you are to extend or to add a
piece of angle going back to the rear, you could make a bracket from that
point. Also you could move everything upward by shortening the pipe and
making the bends sharper. Well I have get back to work.
Good luck or God bless
Scott Trask IMT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Folding Wing Problem |
The drag strut fittings should be at a level angle with the wings, not the
cage to clear the inboard rib.
David Snyder Building FSII Long Branch N.J.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Artdog1512(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Sport Pilot arguement infects Kolb ...... |
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Hinge pin wire... |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
I remember a while back someone suggested a replacement possibility for the
hinge pins. Could someone refresh my memory? My hinge pins measure .090 on
the nose. I cant find anything that size. I found 5/64 which is a hair too
small and 3/32 which is a hair too big.
Im going to try the welding supply store next, but I think all they carry is
fractional sizes. I doubt they will have .090 wire.
Thanks...Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re:wire hobs meter |
<<<<
Well, I did it this way and my Hobbs (which is brand new)
does not work.
So I'm looking (begging?) for advice from our List
electrical experts.
Here's what I think may be contributing to the problem:>>>>>
i would start by connecting the hobbs to a dc source and see
if it works... if not get a new one... in doing so make
sure that the polarity is correct. second make sure that
the leads on the rectifier are connected corectly.. the
rectifier should have a piv rating of 20 to 25 volts (piv
peak inverse volt.) and it should also have the current
capibilities to handel the load. test the rectifier by
connecting a 12 volt battery to the input side of the
rectivier and check for voltage on the outputs. then
reverse the voltage on the inputs and the output voltage
should not change.
if further questions let me know
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | New FireFly Kit relisted |
New FireFly Kit relisted
It's been a long winter with many other things going on
but I still have the new Firefly kit half built which is to say
the bare fusealage is on wheels and painted with the rudder and elevator
controls hooked up.
As opposed to the whole package at $8,000
I am splitting out the engine and instruments and helmet.
Whole kit $6000 without Rotax 447 engine heavy duty wheels.
( missing paint and instrument panel and assembly instructions )
New 447 engine with breakin time on engine only and instrument panel
full of
instruments $2000. no prop ( already gone )
Size large White Comptronics helmet with earphones never worn in flight
$150
Helmet has minor scratches on helmet due to getting banged around and
has
name painted on helmet with butterfly.
location Atlanta, GA.. Pics available
call for discussion at 678 290-0507
Scott Perkins
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot arguement infects Kolb ... |
aka- 2 seater, then you'll have to have insurance and "the
> cost of insurance" is what i think most people will find too expensive. and
> since the cost of insurance will keep most people from making the jump to
> Sport Pilot i think that most of us will elect to continue to fly our UL's
> under Part 103................... tim
Tim/Gang:
My liability insurance, which also covers passengers, is
$275 for the year 2002.
Hull coverage on the ground and in the air went out of
sight. At this point in time it looks like I will drop hull
coverage on an airplane that is worth at least $30,000. It
is a gamble to fly without hull coverage, but between 1,400
and 1,500 dollars is too much to dish out for this
protection.
I will keep my liability. If I dropped the passenger
clause, I could probably cut that in half. Even though I
don't haul passengers that often, all it would take is one
accident and a passenger with a sore thumb could ruin me.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
Subject: | Hinge pin wire... |
Here is a web page for a supplier of drill rod material. It come in 36 inch
lengths and they have all the number sizes. I upped the size of my hinge
pins to remove some of the slop. Hope this helps..
John
http://www.bolts4u.com/
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Carlisle [mailto:rrcarl(at)concentric.net]
Subject: Kolb-List: Hinge pin wire...
I remember a while back someone suggested a replacement possibility for the
hinge pins. Could someone refresh my memory? My hinge pins measure .090 on
the nose. I cant find anything that size. I found 5/64 which is a hair too
small and 3/32 which is a hair too big.
Im going to try the welding supply store next, but I think all they carry is
fractional sizes. I doubt they will have .090 wire.
Thanks...Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Hinge pin wire... |
> Im going to try the welding supply store next, but I think all they carry is
> fractional sizes. I doubt they will have .090 wire.
>
> Thanks...Ross
Ross/Gang:
If you are going to be flying around in 40 kt cross winds
you need to use the correct aviation parts for your
airplane. Hinge pin for aircraft piano hinge is cadmium
plated stainless steel. Can buy it from the aircraft supply
houses in six foot lengths.
Other material for hinge pins will work in an emergency. I
lost a hinge pin out of the outboard flap hinge near Loris,
SC, during my 1994 flight. Noticed it in the air as I was
trying to amuse myself while grinding out the hours. An old
crop duster scrounged around his hanger of "life time
garbage" and found me a hinge pin in a hardware store piano
hinge (probably for a piano). It was a little too small,
but Miss P'fer flew nicely with it on down to Key West and
back to Gantt International Airport, Alabama.
Hinge pins usually last an extremely long time. Wear is
usually limited to the cadmium coating which I understand is
a form of lubricant.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Hinge pin wire... |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Thanks John...AS&S does sell the pin alone. I'll add it to my next order.
Ross
> From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 10:05:53 -0600
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hinge pin wire...
>
>
>
>> Im going to try the welding supply store next, but I think all they carry is
>> fractional sizes. I doubt they will have .090 wire.
>>
>> Thanks...Ross
>
> Ross/Gang:
>
> If you are going to be flying around in 40 kt cross winds
> you need to use the correct aviation parts for your
> airplane. Hinge pin for aircraft piano hinge is cadmium
> plated stainless steel. Can buy it from the aircraft supply
> houses in six foot lengths.
>
> Other material for hinge pins will work in an emergency. I
> lost a hinge pin out of the outboard flap hinge near Loris,
> SC, during my 1994 flight. Noticed it in the air as I was
> trying to amuse myself while grinding out the hours. An old
> crop duster scrounged around his hanger of "life time
> garbage" and found me a hinge pin in a hardware store piano
> hinge (probably for a piano). It was a little too small,
> but Miss P'fer flew nicely with it on down to Key West and
> back to Gantt International Airport, Alabama.
>
> Hinge pins usually last an extremely long time. Wear is
> usually limited to the cadmium coating which I understand is
> a form of lubricant.
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Hinge pin wire... |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
John...Just out of curiosity...Are lost hinge pins a common thing? The only
place I'm reluctantly reusing piano hinge is where the horizontal stab
attaches to the boom tube, and that only because every other alternative
added too much weight to the tail. If there is a chance that thee hinges
can fail, Maybe I'll rethink that.
I don't really trust pop riveted piano hinge as a means of attaching flight
control surfaces or structural parts of the plane.
Has anyone else come up with a better way to attach the horizontal stab?
Ross
> From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 10:05:53 -0600
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hinge pin wire...
>
>
>
>> Im going to try the welding supply store next, but I think all they carry is
>> fractional sizes. I doubt they will have .090 wire.
>>
>> Thanks...Ross
>
> Ross/Gang:
>
> If you are going to be flying around in 40 kt cross winds
> you need to use the correct aviation parts for your
> airplane. Hinge pin for aircraft piano hinge is cadmium
> plated stainless steel. Can buy it from the aircraft supply
> houses in six foot lengths.
>
> Other material for hinge pins will work in an emergency. I
> lost a hinge pin out of the outboard flap hinge near Loris,
> SC, during my 1994 flight. Noticed it in the air as I was
> trying to amuse myself while grinding out the hours. An old
> crop duster scrounged around his hanger of "life time
> garbage" and found me a hinge pin in a hardware store piano
> hinge (probably for a piano). It was a little too small,
> but Miss P'fer flew nicely with it on down to Key West and
> back to Gantt International Airport, Alabama.
>
> Hinge pins usually last an extremely long time. Wear is
> usually limited to the cadmium coating which I understand is
> a form of lubricant.
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Anderson" <janderson3(at)nc.rr.com> |
Subject: | Rivets used instaed of rib stitching |
Where can I purchase the rivets used to hold down the fabric? I checked
Aircraft Spruce and could not find them.
John Anderson
*******************
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Hinge pin wire... |
Ross/Gang:
I'll try and answer your questions:
> John...Just out of curiosity...Are lost hinge pins a common thing?
For me they are not. In 3,000 plus hours of flying my own
personal Kolbs, plus Factory Kolbs, I have only lost one
hinge pin in one small hinge section. I crimp the ends of
the the hinge slightly. The one I lost I probably crimped
it extremely slightly. :-)
The only
> place I'm reluctantly reusing piano hinge is where the horizontal stab
> attaches to the boom tube,
I don't see any problem there. Never, as far as I know, has
a Kolb has a problem in that area.
> I don't really trust pop riveted piano hinge as a means of attaching flight
> control surfaces or structural parts of the plane.
Why not? Cessna uses piano hinge on ailerons and flaps.
> Has anyone else come up with a better way to attach the horizontal stab?
I see nothing wrong with the way Homer designed the attach
system. Works for me.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rivets used instaed of rib stitching |
> Where can I purchase the rivets used to hold down the fabric? I checked
> Aircraft Spruce and could not find them.
>
> John Anderson
John/Gang:
There is only one place to get the best service and quickest
delivery of your covering and painting needs:
That is Jim and Dondi Miller:
CALL TOLL FREE 1-877-877-3334
http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Hinge pin wire... |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Its more the pop rivets I don't trust than the piano hinge. You wouldn't
believe how many loose rivets I found when I took this plane apart. Makes
me nervous to know that these rivets can loosen like that.
I'm not sure how the new Kolbs are done, but this old Twinstar was put
together with 1/8 steel rivets. I'm replacing them wherever possible with
3/16 SS rivets. They should hold better and be stronger.
Ross
> From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 11:54:22 -0600
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hinge pin wire...
>
>
> Ross/Gang:
>
> I'll try and answer your questions:
>
>> John...Just out of curiosity...Are lost hinge pins a common thing?
>
> For me they are not. In 3,000 plus hours of flying my own
> personal Kolbs, plus Factory Kolbs, I have only lost one
> hinge pin in one small hinge section. I crimp the ends of
> the the hinge slightly. The one I lost I probably crimped
> it extremely slightly. :-)
>
> The only
>> place I'm reluctantly reusing piano hinge is where the horizontal stab
>> attaches to the boom tube,
>
> I don't see any problem there. Never, as far as I know, has
> a Kolb has a problem in that area.
>
>> I don't really trust pop riveted piano hinge as a means of attaching flight
>> control surfaces or structural parts of the plane.
>
> Why not? Cessna uses piano hinge on ailerons and flaps.
>
>> Has anyone else come up with a better way to attach the horizontal stab?
>
> I see nothing wrong with the way Homer designed the attach
> system. Works for me.
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Hinge pin wire... |
Ross/Gang:
I don't think the 1/8 rivets are your problem, unless they
have rusted. Back in the old days Kolb kits came with
carbon steel pop rivets that were prone to rust if they got
wet.
> Its more the pop rivets I don't trust than the piano hinge.
If it was my airplane I would look for the reasons the the
rivets are loosening up, rather than possibly covering up
the problem with 3/16 rivets, which is really going
overboard. They do make 5/32 rivets if you wallow out an
1/8" hole.
> I'm not sure how the new Kolbs are done, but this old Twinstar was put
> together with 1/8 steel rivets. I'm replacing them wherever possible with
> 3/16 SS rivets.
Kolbs have always been constructed with 1/8" steel rivets.
Same construction process for all models since the
beginning.
Right off the top of my head I can visualize many places
that a 3/16" rivet will not work simply because there is
insufficient edge distance on the material being riveted.
Take care and good luck on your project.
BTW: Where are you located. I would like to see what you
are working on.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Hinge pin wire... |
In a message dated 2/12/02 9:26:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rrcarl(at)concentric.net writes:
> I remember a while back someone suggested a replacement possibility for the
> hinge pins. Could someone refresh my memory? My hinge pins measure .090
> on
> the nose. I cant find anything that size. I found 5/64 which is a hair
> too
> small and 3/32 which is a hair too big.
>
> Im going to try the welding supply store next, but I think all they carry
> is
> fractional sizes. I doubt they will have .090 wire.
>
> Thanks...Ross
>
>
>
If there is a hobby shop near you that carries radio control airplanes, then
they usually carry a good assortment of music wire in 2 or 3' lengths.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot arguement infects Kolb ... |
In a message dated 2/12/02 9:35:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rrcarl(at)concentric.net writes:
> What did you say your Firestar weighs? Mine weighs 254lbs on the money.
>
My will weigh 254 lbs too.
David Snyder Building FSII Long Branch N.J.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: 91 Welding Steel Gear legs |
Ben/Gang:
After experimentation on the Firestar, I ended up with 1
1/8" X .120 heat treated to 48 RC.
I tested those legs on the MK III from aprx 30 ft. Mushed
in and bent both about 90 deg without breaking.
An additional brace was welded to the gear leg socket on the
fuselage, aprx mid-point to further strengthen the socket.
Anxious to hear how they work for you. If you land better
than I do and keep your Firestar lighter than mine was, you
will probably get good service out of your legs.
Good Luck,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Pridgen" <richard.pridgen(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Hinge pin wire... |
You can buy hinge pins thru Aircraft Spruce ( see page 72 in the new
catalog ) p/n 03-49000 sold in 6' lenths 089" dia .
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Hinge pin wire...
>
> I remember a while back someone suggested a replacement possibility for
the
> hinge pins. Could someone refresh my memory? My hinge pins measure .090
on
> the nose. I cant find anything that size. I found 5/64 which is a hair
too
> small and 3/32 which is a hair too big.
>
> Im going to try the welding supply store next, but I think all they carry
is
> fractional sizes. I doubt they will have .090 wire.
>
> Thanks...Ross
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: 91 Welding Steel Gear legs |
> An additional brace was welded to the gear leg socket on the
> fuselage, aprx mid-point to further strengthen the socket.
Ben/Gang:
I should add to the above that this additional brace was on
my Firestar, not the MK III. My MK III utilizes a prototype
landing gear setup completely different from the stock
setup.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Subject: | FS II seat belts |
Has anyone ordered the second seat option? Are the seat belts exactly the
same. Thanks
David Snyder Building FSII Long Branch N.J.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Hinge pin wire... |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
I'm in New Hampshire. Im putting an online log together. I should have
enough pics to make it somewhat interesting by this weekend.
Ross
> From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 13:25:32 -0600
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hinge pin wire...
>
>
> Ross/Gang:
>
> I don't think the 1/8 rivets are your problem, unless they
> have rusted. Back in the old days Kolb kits came with
> carbon steel pop rivets that were prone to rust if they got
> wet.
>
>> Its more the pop rivets I don't trust than the piano hinge.
>
> If it was my airplane I would look for the reasons the the
> rivets are loosening up, rather than possibly covering up
> the problem with 3/16 rivets, which is really going
> overboard. They do make 5/32 rivets if you wallow out an
> 1/8" hole.
>
>> I'm not sure how the new Kolbs are done, but this old Twinstar was put
>> together with 1/8 steel rivets. I'm replacing them wherever possible with
>> 3/16 SS rivets.
>
> Kolbs have always been constructed with 1/8" steel rivets.
> Same construction process for all models since the
> beginning.
>
> Right off the top of my head I can visualize many places
> that a 3/16" rivet will not work simply because there is
> insufficient edge distance on the material being riveted.
>
> Take care and good luck on your project.
>
> BTW: Where are you located. I would like to see what you
> are working on.
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Hinge pin wire... |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
> From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 13:25:32 -0600
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hinge pin wire...
>
>
> Ross/Gang:
>
> I don't think the 1/8 rivets are your problem, unless they
> have rusted. Back in the old days Kolb kits came with
> carbon steel pop rivets that were prone to rust if they got
> wet.
Some were rusted. That could be why they loosened.
>
>> Its more the pop rivets I don't trust than the piano hinge.
>
> If it was my airplane I would look for the reasons the the
> rivets are loosening up, rather than possibly covering up
> the problem with 3/16 rivets, which is really going
> overboard. They do make 5/32 rivets if you wallow out an
> 1/8" hole.
The previous owner did aerobatics every chance he got. Gear legs were also
bent up badly which makes me think he had more than one bad landing. I
don't think this plane had an easy life.
>
>> I'm not sure how the new Kolbs are done, but this old Twinstar was put
>> together with 1/8 steel rivets. I'm replacing them wherever possible with
>> 3/16 SS rivets.
>
> Kolbs have always been constructed with 1/8" steel rivets.
> Same construction process for all models since the
> beginning.
If 1/8" rivets are enough, Id rather use them. Im just having a bit of a
problem getting used to the idea of pop rivets as structural fasteners. Im
really trying, but pop rivets just make me nervous. This is my 4th airplane
project and the first to use pop rivets as structural fasteners.
>
> Right off the top of my head I can visualize many places
> that a 3/16" rivet will not work simply because there is
> insufficient edge distance on the material being riveted.
So can I. I really wanted to use 3/16 on the horizontal stab attach hinges.
Maybe I'll just use 1/8" and a couple AN bolts.
My problem with pop rivets is that they are difficult to inspect. A bolt is
easy to inspect and less likely to come loose.
>
> Take care and good luck on your project.
>
> BTW: Where are you located. I would like to see what you
> are working on.
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 02/10/02 |
The following is quoted from Ultralight Flying - March 1995.
"After several years of research and input from the ultralight community,
USUA officially petitioned FAA for ultralight rule change on April 6, 1998.
USUA requested that FAA bring the definition of ultralights in America more
in line with international definitions, with single seaters weighing no more
than 360 pounds empty weight and 2 seaters weighing no more than 496 pounds
empty weight. These ultralighs would be flown by pilots who had
participated in an FAA-approved ultralight training program."
Sport Pilot shows you what happens when the government gets hold of
something.
I would not presume to speak for USUA, but in all my conversations with
them, I got the feeling they are really committed to safety and I think USUA
been in the fore-front in calling for increased training in exchange for
fatter and faster ultralights. My concern is that when current BFI's can no
longer use their existing aircraft (after the three years) what will happen
to the shrinking instructor pool.
Think of the difficulty us Kolb folks having finding an instructor with a
ultralight tandem-taildragger now.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 02/10/02 |
Erie Weaver - did you hear Sue Gardener say at the USUA meeting, that
experimental lite-sport aircraft will face the same limitations (such as no
fly over congested areas) as currently apply to 103 aircraft? Would the
same aircraft licensed as Experimental, amateur built not be subject to the
same limitations. If so, what would be advantage to the lite sport
designation?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Kolbers, I too was a little dubious about pop rivets and checked into
using a/c blind rivets instead. Turns out the shear strength of those
stainless jobs is pretty hard to beat. --and a whole bunch of 'em in a
row....?? Remember, a preflight insp. sure helps returning to the
ground in a coordinated assemblage of tubes, rivets and fabric.
The only place I chose to use bolts instead of those big horse rivets
was securing the tail tube into the cage ring. --Makes it a lot easier
to
take apart if/when I booger things up. -BB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I have to agree with Bob. If you look in the A/C Spruce catalog, they give
the shear strength of the different sizes, and in the stainless ones
especially, it's really impressive.............and most of the loads on ours
are in shear. They're not as good in tension, but in our application, and
with as many as are used, that's not a problem. In areas of high stress,
it's quite often possible to put a stainless washer on the inside, for the
rivet to seat against. That's REALLY strong. A very common cause of rivet
loosening is caused by not de-burring the holes you drill. The drill leaves
a burr on the inside, and the rivet will tighten against it. A little
movement, the burr flattens out, and you've got a loose rivet. On a scrap
of flat aluminum, drill a 1/8" hole, using quite a bit of pressure. Notice
how big of a burr it leaves, then pop a rivet in there and take a close look
at it. It'll make a believer out of you...........real quick. De-burring
the inside of thousands of holes in the tubing is tedious, but it pays off
big time in the long run.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bean" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: pop rivets
>
> Kolbers, I too was a little dubious about pop rivets and checked into
> using a/c blind rivets instead. Turns out the shear strength of those
> stainless jobs is pretty hard to beat. --and a whole bunch of 'em in a
> row....?? Remember, a preflight insp. sure helps returning to the
> ground in a coordinated assemblage of tubes, rivets and fabric.
> The only place I chose to use bolts instead of those big horse rivets
> was securing the tail tube into the cage ring. --Makes it a lot easier
> to
> take apart if/when I booger things up. -BB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> After 40 hours, I started flying a Pitts and couldn't afford to insure the
> plane. Now that I have tons of flight time and can afford to insure them, I
> can't see the point in paying the unreasonable premiums...So I still self
> insure.
>
> I did carry liability on both of the Pitts because I was flying airshows.
> It was required by most clients (Incase you fly into the grand stands).
> Liability on the Pitts was less than the Cherokee premium. Around $300 I
> think...And they knew I was doing low level aerobatics.
> Ross
Ross/Gang:
Wow! I musta missed this email when it came through the
other day. Did not know we had a real "air show" performer
in our midst.
When and where were you flying airshows?
What model Pitts were you flying?
As long as I have been hanging out at air ports, flyins, and
air shows all over the country, I bet I have seen you
perform.
How about sharing some of your air show experience with us?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Subject: | seldom is heard... |
Wonder if our wordsmith Beauford is still around????
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: FS II seat belts |
Mine came with two sets of seat belts and they are the same. I am not going
to use the rear seat so I have a spare set of belts.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 17:12:59
Subject: Kolb-List: FS II seat belts
Has anyone ordered the second seat option? Are the seat belts exactly the
same. Thanks
David Snyder Building FSII Long Branch N.J.
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Kolb FireFly Kit |
Kolb FireFly Kit (half built)
potentially legal FAR 103 ultralight w/ 40 HP engine.
High performance defined as 75 foot takeoff roll
and 63 MPH cruise with highly responsive ailerons.
No license or medical required. Flight governed
only by laws of common sense and physics.
This arguably the most transportable airplane sold
in the world today. Kolb company has the best compact
folding wings and this plane is their smallest model
January 25, 2002 - February 13, 2002
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dk