Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dm
March 03, 2002 - March 25, 2002
>
> A few years ago I was doing research and design of the Kline Fogleman
> airfoil ( The Ultimate Paper Airplane). It was a regular airfoil but it
had
> a sharp step in the wing profile. This caused the airflow to stay on the
> wing and improve the aerodynamics contrary to what you may have thought. I
> am hoping for a similar situation with the wide squared off back design.
> There is not a lot of room between the back of the fuselage and the prop
> anyway so the turbulence created should be smoothed out by being forced
> into the prop right away.
>
> >Nice. I'm a little unsure about flow separation with the squared off
end,
> >but I do like that wingtip extension idea..................
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tony webster <caw(at)nctc.com> |
Subject: | Re: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
you guys spend too much time on puter get out and fly before you forget how
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> Nothing ventured, nothing gained, Woody. Go for it ! ! !
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
>
> >
> > A few years ago I was doing research and design of the Kline Fogleman
> > airfoil ( The Ultimate Paper Airplane). It was a regular airfoil but it
> had
> > a sharp step in the wing profile. This caused the airflow to stay on the
> > wing and improve the aerodynamics contrary to what you may have thought. I
> > am hoping for a similar situation with the wide squared off back design.
> > There is not a lot of room between the back of the fuselage and the prop
> > anyway so the turbulence created should be smoothed out by being forced
> > into the prop right away.
> >
> > >Nice. I'm a little unsure about flow separation with the squared off
> end,
> > >but I do like that wingtip extension idea..................
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: middle ground |
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, March 02, 2002 17:38:56
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: middle ground
>
> I asked this question before and received no response. If you build
> the
> plane yourself, are you the manufacturer?
>
> Jim
> Mark III
> Charlotte, NC
Jim,
This is one good thing about the SP proposal, in that all planes can be
repaired by their owners by taking a 16 hour course. I would like to
amend the SP by saying we can repair our own planes without a 16 hour
course if we can prove 51% build.
I asked this question to the EAA some time back and this is the answer I got
from them. It seems that there will be no changes to the repairman rules so
we can work on out planes if we are under the 50% rule.
"Your Kolb is an experimental/amateur-built aircraft. This will remain the
same regardless of what license privileges you wish to operate under. Your
repairman certificate will not be effected by the new rule, as the
regulations concerning amateur-built aircraft are not changed in any way by
the sport pilot/light sport aircraft (LSA) proposal".
Ron Payne
_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: What is a legal ultralight? |
Ralph,
Yes, an ultralight can cruise faster than 63 mph and stall at greater than
28 mph and still be a legal ultralight. The FAA knew it would be
impractical to set hard physical limits for these speeds and so they set
design criteria that will determine what is a legal ultralight.
Yes, anyone can declare false values in a document and data falsification
will not make your plane a legal ultralight. In the case of your example,
if you are ramp checked and they put your undocumented experimental on the
scales, the FAA fine can be $1,000. To over come the suspicion that I may
have falsified the data in my document, I asked a certified A&P to look the
document over and to sign and date it, and to initial each page. I carry a
copy of the document in the FireFly. The owner has to prove that what he is
flying without an N number is a legal ultralight, and putting together this
document and carrying it with the vehicle is only way one has to do this.
It takes some time to do, but I do not worry about being ramp checked, and
I have the satisfaction of knowing the FireFly does meet all legal
requirements.
Please pull up:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/fireflylegal.html
If you would like a Microsoft Word copy of the document you can download a
copy at the end of the above html.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Jack,
>
>I don't mean to pursue this legal ultralight issue, but are you saying
>that I can have an ultralight that flies faster than 63 mph and what's
>filled out in the paperwork and be legal? This means I can write in 254
>lbs and the actual weight may be 15 more pounds. I knew there was a way
>around this Sport Pilot thing.
>
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original Firestar
>15 years flying it
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
To cold to build in an unheated hanger. When spring has sprung I will be
back in the hanger and flying this summer.
>
>you guys spend too much time on puter get out and fly before you forget how
>
>Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> >
> > Nothing ventured, nothing gained, Woody. Go for it ! ! !
> >
> > Larry Bourne
> > Palm Springs, Ca.
> > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> > http://www.gogittum.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
> >
> > >
> > > A few years ago I was doing research and design of the Kline Fogleman
> > > airfoil ( The Ultimate Paper Airplane). It was a regular airfoil but it
> > had
> > > a sharp step in the wing profile. This caused the airflow to stay on the
> > > wing and improve the aerodynamics contrary to what you may have
> thought. I
> > > am hoping for a similar situation with the wide squared off back design.
> > > There is not a lot of room between the back of the fuselage and the prop
> > > anyway so the turbulence created should be smoothed out by being forced
> > > into the prop right away.
> > >
> > > >Nice. I'm a little unsure about flow separation with the squared off
> > end,
> > > >but I do like that wingtip extension idea..................
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Hauck" <jimh474(at)nettally.com> |
Subject: | Re: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Woody;
Looking at the pics of your wing and didn't see any diagonal bracing from
the main spar to the leading edge. You may have it , but didn't show up in
the pic's. If you don't it is highly reccommended to have that bracing.
I also noticed that you have rather large un-supported bays in your ribs.
Jim Hauck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
>
> To cold to build in an unheated hanger. When spring has sprung I will
be
> back in the hanger and flying this summer.
>
>
> >
> >you guys spend too much time on puter get out and fly before you forget
how
> >
> >Larry Bourne wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Nothing ventured, nothing gained, Woody. Go for it ! ! !
> > >
> > > Larry Bourne
> > > Palm Springs, Ca.
> > > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> > > http://www.gogittum.com
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
> > >
> > > >
> > > > A few years ago I was doing research and design of the Kline
Fogleman
> > > > airfoil ( The Ultimate Paper Airplane). It was a regular airfoil but
it
> > > had
> > > > a sharp step in the wing profile. This caused the airflow to stay on
the
> > > > wing and improve the aerodynamics contrary to what you may have
> > thought. I
> > > > am hoping for a similar situation with the wide squared off back
design.
> > > > There is not a lot of room between the back of the fuselage and the
prop
> > > > anyway so the turbulence created should be smoothed out by being
forced
> > > > into the prop right away.
> > > >
> > > > >Nice. I'm a little unsure about flow separation with the squared
off
> > > end,
> > > > >but I do like that wingtip extension idea..................
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Broken Input Shaft |
I just posted 3 pics of the broken input shaft on my re-drive to
photoshare. Hope they come thru..........posted that pic of the twin
prop Kolb last night, and still hasn't shown. Can't remember if the
text goes thru with the pics, so.................. It did this on the
1st full power run-up. Twisted that shaft off like a piece of cheese.
When he received the broken parts, the mfr called me and said he had no
idea of why it broke like that. He tested it, and said it was the good
steel all right, ( a few were built with hot rolled ) and tested to
Rockwell 60. Shaft is 5/8". He says he'll make the new one 3/4", and
harden it to R45..........maybe 60 was too brittle, like a file. I
dunno..............I'm having a little (??) problem with confidence in
the thing now, and that may be part of the reason I'm having so much
trouble getting back to work on the project. Haven't touched it since
the 1st part of December, and the weather's perfect. Come on,
Lar..............giddy-up go ! ! ! Depressed Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: middle ground |
> The second thing I have a problem with is the FAA initial inspection. Why
> should I have to pay a government employee $300-$400 for an inspection of
> my plane? Is this a scam or what?
> Ralph Burlingame
Ralph/Gang:
It seems to me that you are trying your hardest to find
fault with the Sport Pilot thing. Why don't you try looking
for some of the good in it?
If you want to fly an ultralight that complies with Part
103, build one. However, I don't think it is fair to rap
the government because you did not comply with the reg. Now
you want them to rewrite the reg to make your airplane
legal. Again, it is time to face reality.
BTW: The FAA does not charge you one red cent to inspect
your airplane. If you get a "FAA designee" to inspect it,
then you are gonna have to shell out some money. The
advantage of using a designee is you can usually get one to
come do the inspection in a matter of days, rather than wait
on an FAA inspector to come when he gets time.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: middle ground |
> If you build the
> plane yourself, are you the manufacturer?
>
> Jim
Jim/Gang:
Yes.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/02/02 |
From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
Guys,
Jack is 100% correct. Fill out AC 103-7 Appendices 1 through 4 and if you
make the parameters listed you have a legal ultralight. You have to stay
at or below 254 lb., have the right wing area, power, etc. Apendices 1 to
4 are a method to certify complaince with 103 that does not require a
flight test. The way the numbers work out it is possible to build an
ultralight that is a bit fast, but your stall speed and mass will still
be low.
Larry the Micro Mong guy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
I have a starter for sale that I used on my 447. Excellent condition. It
is one that lets you keep your pull starter. Will send pictures. Reasonable!
L Cottrell
541 883 1294
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Subject: | Re: middle ground |
Jim,
The answer to your question is YES you are the Manufacturer!!!! If you
register your MKIII as an "Experimental Amateur Built, you can also be
issued a repairman certificate without any classes.(Just need to prove you
built it) There are a lot of people on this list who just can't seem to
grasp the fact that this sport pilot proposal is in addition to what already
exists, as it applies to the certification of aircraft.
Hope this helps.
Guy Swenson
MKIII Xtra
3053B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: middle ground
>
> I asked this question before and received no response. If you build the
> plane yourself, are you the manufacturer?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Larry Bourne
Subject: Twin Prop Kolb
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.03.03.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Larry Bourne
Subject: Broken Reduction Drive
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.03.03.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Larry Bourne
Subject: Broken Reduction Drive
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.03.04.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Woody, I think what Jim H is referring to are the (two on mine)
> leading edge diagonals. -definitely a good idea and an easy job.
-BB
Bob/Gang:
Good diagonal bracing of the leading edge of the wing is not
"definitely a good idea", it is imperative if you want the
wing to stay together. The Firestar does not fly when the
leading edges fail, and I doubt any of Homer's other designs
do either.
The leading edge bracing keeps those little rib noses in
column, bracing them from lateral movement.
Might take a look at the nose rib bracing of each individual
main rib, since both the top and bottom of the rib is
already bent out of column.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot repair |
03/03/2002 06:35:02 PM
Ralph and others:
I continue to see misstatements regarding Sport Pilot, as below:
This is one good thing about the SP proposal, in that all planes can be
repaired by their owners by taking a 16 hour course. I would like to
amend the SP by saying we can repair our own planes without a 16 hour
course if we can prove 51% build.
After reading the NPRM and talking to the lead FAA rep (Sue Gardener), I
can assure you the above statement is not true. You will NOT need a 16 hr
course to work on your plane after it is registered as an experimental
light-sport aircraft. You will only need the 16 hr course if you wish to
do your own annual inspection. Lets keep the facts straight!
Regards,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
Santa Barbara, California 93117
Tel: 805-964-6010
fax: 805-964 0259
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
You guys scared me for awhile. I read through the plans and found the 2
diagonals on the inboard end that I hope you are referring to. I was ready
to burn a hole into the end of the wing to take a peek but luckily I found
a photo showing the brace. If you look at the original photo I posted you
will notice that the steel drag strut braces were not installed yet either.
Had me goin there.
I am not sure what you meant by the rib being bent out of column. I did
straighten all the ribs before covering.
John you have a good eye for detail. My wings have 8 ribs instead of 9
so there is a couple inches more between the ribs. There was a
misunderstanding at Kolb and I was shorted a few pieces of 5/16 tube that
weren't delivered It wasn't really worth the freight charges so I made the
decision to go with one rib less.
>
>
> > Woody, I think what Jim H is referring to are the (two on mine)
> > leading edge diagonals. -definitely a good idea and an easy job.
> -BB
>
>Bob/Gang:
>
>Good diagonal bracing of the leading edge of the wing is not
>"definitely a good idea", it is imperative if you want the
>wing to stay together. The Firestar does not fly when the
>leading edges fail, and I doubt any of Homer's other designs
>do either.
>
>The leading edge bracing keeps those little rib noses in
>column, bracing them from lateral movement.
>
>Might take a look at the nose rib bracing of each individual
>main rib, since both the top and bottom of the rib is
>already bent out of column.
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: engine starter |
Will it fit a 582?
> I have a starter for sale that I used on my 447. Excellent condition. It
>is one that lets you keep your pull starter. Will send pictures. Reasonable!
>L Cottrell
>541 883 1294
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> I am not sure what you meant by the rib being bent out of column. Woody
Woody:
I was interested in the rib tubing of the rib noses. Top
and bottom tubes are bent (to get the shape you desire)
which also means that the straight tube is bent out of
column. An observation on Brother Jim's and my part hinted
that there may not be sufficient bracing in the nose portion
of the rib. Jim also indicated that more bracing may be
required for the aft portion of the ribs. Just a personal
observation on my part. I can not give you an engineering
explanation.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Subject: | Re: engine starter |
The guy that I tried to sell it to had it on one. He just didn't have any
money.:-/ I will send you a pic. and if you need any measurements I can do
that tomorrow.
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: engine starter
>
> Will it fit a 582?
>
>
> > I have a starter for sale that I used on my 447. Excellent condition.
It
> >is one that lets you keep your pull starter. Will send pictures.
Reasonable!
> >L Cottrell
> >541 883 1294
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
Lar,
Sorry to hear of your broken shaft, and now your questionable
confidence in it. It was Mudville up here for me today too. I had a
heck of a time with what shoulda been simple finishing up on aileron
repair. I kept putting in rivets that would not pull snug -- ended up
having a pulled rivet in just the top piece and maybe a widened hole in
the bottom piece, so had to go back and make both over again! Went to
my local Ace Hardware "and Aircraft Supply" store -- got some of their
1/4" long rivets and they were just a snitch longer than the batch I
had been using. This solved the problem, but my patience was pretty
thinned out.
Then, to top that off, I moved the fuselage out into the driveway for a
final cleaning before priming all the bare steel areas ...I found a
crack in the main bulkhead diagonal (the tube that goes up to the wing
spar carry-thru). The diagonal had been bent in the blow-over, and
straightened by the aircraft welder I took it to two years ago. I only
found the crack after getting the old epoxy paint entirely cleaned out
of a weldment, and it needed a magnifying glass to be sure. Needless
to say, I am muttering and feeling low. Expecting this wknd to finish
out with two completed ailerons and a painted cage, I have one finished
aileron, a lot of butchered aluminum, and a cage that again needs some
steel repair work. On the up side, I'm glad to have found the crack
now, instead of it finding me later. Well, hopefully misery loves a
little company,
-Ben "once again considering golf" Ransom
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
http://sports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Still not sure what you mean by the straight tube bent out of colume ( do
you mean the bottom rib tube?). as it is I have the same amount of bracing
in the nose as the original ribs. It is a bit of a moot point now anyway.
The wings are covered and primed and I am hesitant to tear it apart and
start making improvements that may not be critical. The original wing is
overbuilt to start with. While I did lose one rib I also shortened the
span a foot and a half so the rib spacing is about the same. Hopefully the
fabric will also add some reenforcement to the nose area.
It may be to late to change but I appreciate your insights, I wish I
would have posted the photos earlier.
>I was interested in the rib tubing of the rib noses. Top
>and bottom tubes are bent (to get the shape you desire)
>which also means that the straight tube is bent out of
>column. An observation on Brother Jim's and my part hinted
>that there may not be sufficient bracing in the nose portion
>of the rib. Jim also indicated that more bracing may be
>required for the aft portion of the ribs. Just a personal
>observation on my part. I can not give you an engineering
>explanation.
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
have an opportunity to purchase a 912 bought in 1992 with 300 hrs run
time on it now. Is there any problem areas I should know about or things to
check before I commit my money?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ian Heritch" <iheritch(at)revelgroup.com> |
Check the Rotax web site for all the service bulletins. That will give
you an idea of what should have been done, or what will need to be done.
There are a lot of them.
Ian Heritch
912 Slingshot
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Woody
Subject: Kolb-List: 912 question
have an opportunity to purchase a 912 bought in 1992 with 300 hrs run
time on it now. Is there any problem areas I should know about or things
to
check before I commit my money?
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/02/02 |
Thank you Ralph for saying exactly what I was thinking but lacked the words
to express it so eloquently.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/01/02 |
jerryb and others interested in water based paint; I used water borne
covering and paint on my Kolb and love it. I wouldn't use anything else now
that I have tried it. If you have any questions, contact me directly.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: engine starter |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
If it will fit a 503, Im interested. Who is the manufacturer and what is
the model number?
> From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 18:15:58 -0500
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: engine starter
>
>
> Will it fit a 582?
>
>
>> I have a starter for sale that I used on my 447. Excellent condition. It
>> is one that lets you keep your pull starter. Will send pictures. Reasonable!
>> L Cottrell
>> 541 883 1294
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you work
thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take pride in
it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! ! It's hard
to start all over on a major component - not just the money - but
psychological as well. As you well know. You're very lucky to have caught
that crack when you did...........that could be nasty, and very easy to
miss. I wonder where you found that line about "Ace Hardware & Aircraft
Supply ??" The owner of the local branch got a great charge out of that.
Sad story, but all too familiar these days................Lowes opened a
huge center a mile or so up the street 6 or 10 months
ago.............yesterday I went by Ace ( rather support local little guys,
even if a few cents more ) and they have big "going out of business" signs
in the windows. Sad day in Mudville. Good luck on yours.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
> Lar,
> Sorry to hear of your broken shaft, and now your questionable
> confidence in it. It was Mudville up here for me today too. I had a
> heck of a time with what shoulda been simple finishing up on aileron
> repair. I kept putting in rivets that would not pull snug -- ended up
> having a pulled rivet in just the top piece and maybe a widened hole in
> the bottom piece, so had to go back and make both over again! Went to
> my local Ace Hardware "and Aircraft Supply" store -- got some of their
> 1/4" long rivets and they were just a snitch longer than the batch I
> had been using. This solved the problem, but my patience was pretty
> thinned out.
>
> Then, to top that off, I moved the fuselage out into the driveway for a
> final cleaning before priming all the bare steel areas ...I found a
> crack in the main bulkhead diagonal (the tube that goes up to the wing
> spar carry-thru). The diagonal had been bent in the blow-over, and
> straightened by the aircraft welder I took it to two years ago. I only
> found the crack after getting the old epoxy paint entirely cleaned out
> of a weldment, and it needed a magnifying glass to be sure. Needless
> to say, I am muttering and feeling low. Expecting this wknd to finish
> out with two completed ailerons and a painted cage, I have one finished
> aileron, a lot of butchered aluminum, and a cage that again needs some
> steel repair work. On the up side, I'm glad to have found the crack
> now, instead of it finding me later. Well, hopefully misery loves a
> little company,
>
> -Ben "once again considering golf" Ransom
>
> =====
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
> http://sports.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
Dearest Larry
My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive. May you
pick up the pieces and carry on.
I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an internal
vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect that little
shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine starting up
but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken not
twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle?
>
>Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you work
>thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take pride in
>it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! !
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: 912 question |
> have an opportunity to purchase a 912 bought in 1992 with 300 hrs run
> time on it now. Is there any problem areas I should know about or things to
> check before I commit my money?
Woody/Gang:
Don't have time to give you a proper answer now. Back copy
or call me, 334-567-6280, and we will discuss the 912
issues.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite possibility,
that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60, as in
the 1st one. Kind of like the difference between Grade 8 bolts, and AN
spec, maybe. We'll see.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
>
> Dearest Larry
> My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive. May you
> pick up the pieces and carry on.
> I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an internal
> vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect that little
> shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine starting up
> but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken not
> twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle?
>
>
> >
> >Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you work
> >thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take pride in
> >it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! !
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
> Nope, no vibration damper.
Larry Bourne
Big Lar/Gang:
How do they get away without utilizing a torsional vibration
dampner? Most every application has them except lawn mowers
and maybe weed eaters. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
Lar,
What type of prop are you running? I know on the VW, they curse you if
your run a compose prop on a VW direct drive. Check with the compose prop
manufacturers. Will break the cranks in no time. I suspect your running
into something similar. You may have to run a wood prop if your not. I
don't think hardening is the issue, its the spiked power pulses thus you
may find you need some form of dampener. What I understand is happening is
your actually twisting the drive shaft (crank) a little with each power
pulse. There was a warning about this in the EAA Experimenter some time back.
jerryb
>
>Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite possibility,
>that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60, as in
>the 1st one. Kind of like the difference between Grade 8 bolts, and AN
>spec, maybe. We'll see.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>http://www.gogittum.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
>
> >
> >
> > Dearest Larry
> > My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive. May you
> > pick up the pieces and carry on.
> > I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an internal
> > vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect that little
> > shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine starting up
> > but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken not
> > twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle?
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you work
> > >thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take pride in
> > >it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! !
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
>
See if he can bump that up to a 1" shaft while he is at it. Swinging a
prop is quite a gyroscopic load and there is no substitute for extra beef
in a part like that.
>Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite possibility,
>that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60, as in
>the 1st one. Kind of like the difference between Grade 8 bolts, and AN
>spec, maybe. We'll see.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>http://www.gogittum.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
>
> >
> >
> > Dearest Larry
> > My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive. May you
> > pick up the pieces and carry on.
> > I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an internal
> > vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect that little
> > shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine starting up
> > but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken not
> > twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle?
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you work
> > >thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take pride in
> > >it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! !
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
> See if he can bump that up to a 1" shaft while he is at it.
> Swinging a
> prop is quite a gyroscopic load and there is no substitute for extra
> beef
> in a part like that.
Even tho I know nothing about Lar's setup (except that it's obviously
got a good deal of power ...oh, and it provides us with all kinds of
fun here :/ ), I disagree with 'just make it bigger'.
If there is a tortional shock problem that easily snaps a shaft in
early runup tests, it is a good time to thoroughly consider possible
sources and reason for the unexpected load. e.g., a bigger shaft might
just end up with something else breaking, like the crank, motor mounts,
prop, whatever.
-Ben
>
>
> >Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite
> possibility,
> >that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60,
> as in
> >the 1st one. Kind of like the difference between Grade 8 bolts, and
> AN
> >spec, maybe. We'll see.
> >
> >Larry Bourne
> >Palm Springs, Ca.
> >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> >http://www.gogittum.com
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Dearest Larry
> > > My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive.
> May you
> > > pick up the pieces and carry on.
> > > I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an
> internal
> > > vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect
> that little
> > > shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine
> starting up
> > > but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken
> not
> > > twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle?
> > >
> > >
>
> > > >
> > > >Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits;
> you work
> > > >thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take
> pride in
> > > >it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! !
> !
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
Got home from work about 10 minutes ago, and there was a message from him on
the answering machine.............he says he finished up the parts today,
('bout time ! ! ! ) and shipped them. He said to take a look at them when
they get here, then call him, but DON'T assemble them till I talk to him.
We'll see what they look like, and what he has to say. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
>
> > Nope, no vibration damper.
> Larry Bourne
>
> Big Lar/Gang:
>
> How do they get away without utilizing a torsional vibration
> dampner? Most every application has them except lawn mowers
> and maybe weed eaters. :-)
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
Great minds run in the same circles..............that was the 1st thing I
said to him. He says he can't go larger cause of the bearing size
limitation. I said, to heck with bearing sizes..........make 'em bigger.
Says he can't. I dunno. We'll see when the parts get here.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
>
> >
> See if he can bump that up to a 1" shaft while he is at it. Swinging a
> prop is quite a gyroscopic load and there is no substitute for extra beef
> in a part like that.
>
>
> >Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite possibility,
> >that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60, as
in
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
I'm not absolutely certain, but my understanding is that most, or all, of
the scare stories about VW's comes from people putting props on the end of
the old cast crankshafts. (direct drive) They break. Apparently forged
steel cranks - like mine - are pretty much immune. The re-drive totally
eliminates that possibility, anyway...............if I can only keep the
#%$&$ re-drive from breaking. There's a lot of old wives' tales, and urban
legend type of stuff about the VW's...............sometimes it's hard to
separate the wheat from the chaff. I even read an article in Experimenter
not too long ago about Pietenpols, that said it was great to use the direct
drive Corvair engine, but to stay away from the direct drive
VW...........it's too heavy. (???) Same article says 65 -75 hp is ideal for
Piets. Go figure. I try to keep in mind that it's a 4 cylinder, flat, air
cooled motor that will obey the same laws as any
other..............including Lycoming & Conitinental. I dunno, maybe I'm in
for a rude awakening. My own gut feeling is that the R60 tempering was too
brittle. We'll see.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
> Lar,
> What type of prop are you running? I know on the VW, they curse you if
> your run a compose prop on a VW direct drive. Check with the compose prop
> manufacturers. Will break the cranks in no time. I suspect your running
> into something similar. You may have to run a wood prop if your not. I
> don't think hardening is the issue, its the spiked power pulses thus you
> may find you need some form of dampener. What I understand is happening
is >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
Forgot to answer your question........it's a Warp Drive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
> Lar,
> What type of prop are you running? I know on the VW, they curse you if
> your run a compose prop on a VW direct drive. Check with the compose prop
> manufacturers. Will break the cranks in no time. I suspect your running
> into something similar. You may have to run a wood prop if your not. I
> don't think hardening is the issue, its the spiked power pulses thus you
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
If anyone out there is interested, I have a brand new kolb instrument panel
with all guages and wire harness to engine, tagged and ready to install. Has
ASI to 100, ALT, CHT/EGT with dual switch and harness leads, digital
tach/time, timer, misc. switches and stuff. Will let someone have a real
good deal. Purchased separately would be over $500. gonna make you a
bargain. Also have a good used 447 complete with B box and a 377 with B box
with only 130 hours on it. I never wear an engine out before I replace it.
Saves landing gears and nurves. Ted Cowan. Alabama. 334-480-0822
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Lar...
Warp Drive is a great prop...But it is also the heaviest of the bunch. I
wouldn't be surprised if that is your problem. Not too long ago I was told
by Great Plains that a composite prop would absolutely not work on a direct
drive VW. I'm not sure if they get around that with the reduction drive.
Ross
> From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 00:39:32 -0800
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
>
> Forgot to answer your question........it's a Warp Drive.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
>
>>
>> Lar,
>> What type of prop are you running? I know on the VW, they curse you if
>> your run a compose prop on a VW direct drive. Check with the compose prop
>> manufacturers. Will break the cranks in no time. I suspect your running
>> into something similar. You may have to run a wood prop if your not. I
>> don't think hardening is the issue, its the spiked power pulses thus you
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
I agree Ben but a 5/8 shaft seemed woefully undersized for the load. The
best fix would be some kind of damper in the gear box but that would
require a whole new reduction drive.
>If there is a tortional shock problem that easily snaps a shaft in
>early runup tests, it is a good time to thoroughly consider possible
>sources and reason for the unexpected load. e.g., a bigger shaft might
>just end up with something else breaking, like the crank, motor mounts,
>prop, whatever.
>-Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
> I agree Ben but a 5/8 shaft seemed woefully undersized for the load.
The
> best fix would be some kind of damper in the gear box but that would
> require a whole new reduction drive.
If you are getting resonance then the size of the shaft is not important
from a strength point of view. you will break something in the system no
matter how strong you make it. what matters is the torsional stiffness of
each component, and how those stiffnesses add up to result in the resonant
frequency. The driving forces are the piston power and compression pulses,
the prop pulses from spinning behind a wing and operating at an angle of
attack, and pulses from the alternator and other accessories as well. if
any of these pulses line up with the resonant frequency of any part of the
drive system, and are of large enough magnitude to overcome the damping that
the system has at that frequency then the system will start adding energy
with each oscillation and the magnitude will grow until something breaks.
because the driving frequencies are fairly high the magnitude grows fairly
quickly and usually something breaks real fast... but occasionally if the
damping is just slightly smaller then the amplitude of the input then it
might take a long time and result in a fatigue type failure.
If you are simply failing due to static loads, then making the shaft bigger
will solve the problem, and making the shaft bigger will make it stiffer,
changing the resonant frequencies of the system. but just guessing and go
fly if it doesn't break after a few hours of ground running is a really
risky way of doing this. (put less politely, how damn stupid are these
people!) Math is not impossibly difficult. At the very least calculate the
static loads in your system and size the shaft for a certain life
expectancy. Get some help and calculate the torsional stiffness of each
part in the drive and determine the resonant frequencies of the system. See
if they line up with the frequencies of the driving functions. if they do
you will absolutely need a damper in the system. the best place for the
damper is at the accessory end of the engine, not the power side, so it wont
interfere with your redrive. A vibration absorber in the redrive would be a
great way to change the frequencies of the system but it sounds like your
redrive supplier is not interested in doing that. you should be able to buy
a pulley style damper that is appropriate for your SYSTEM and bolt it on to
use as your accessory drive pulley. If your redrive supplier does not know
all of this, then they are probably not capable of doing the engineering
necessary to provide a reliable reduction drive.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
Larry
This was my concern with that reduction drive. When I was researching
reduction drives I heard some reports of chain drive units amplifying
harmonic problems. Seems like you have springs in your flex plate that
will absorb some of the power pulses that engine produces but does it
dampen enough? I think you need to dampen the harmonic vibrations enough
that they don't get transmitted (at least greatly reduced) to the input
shaft. My guess is the input shaft is plenty big enough to handle a
smooth flow of power. If you just make the input shaft stronger you may
transmit the vibrations to the crank shaft and break it.
There are at least two ways you can reduce the amplitude of the
harmonic vibration at the source. The best way is to put a flywheel on
that engine. My reduction drive builder recommends 12+ pound flywheel.
You could also reduce the compression ratio (I had mine set at 7.6 to 1)
but you will get a power reduction. Julian Warren has a flywheel and a
damper that uses rubber on his reduction drive. This may be enough but
you guys are going to be test pilots so be careful.
My $.02 worth
Rick Neilsen
Re drive VW powered MKIII
>>> biglar(at)gogittum.com 03/04/02 04:42PM >>>
Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite
possibility,
that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60, as
in
the 1st one. Kind of like the difference between Grade 8 bolts, and
AN
spec, maybe. We'll see.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
>
> Dearest Larry
> My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive. May
you
> pick up the pieces and carry on.
> I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an internal
> vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect that
little
> shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine starting
up
> but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken not
> twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle?
>
>
> >
> >Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you
work
> >thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take
pride in
> >it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! !
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
His new drives, such as the one Julian Warren bought, have a different
mounting system, based on the Diehl drive case. They incorporate a damper.
Unfortunately, mine doesn't have room for this.............the new ones are
longer. He did build some of the earlier drives like mine, and apparently
some of them are still flying. I'll ask him about that, too.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
> > I agree Ben but a 5/8 shaft seemed woefully undersized for the load.
> The
> > best fix would be some kind of damper in the gear box but that would
> > require a whole new reduction drive.
>
> If you are getting resonance then the size of the shaft is not important
> from a strength point of view. you will break something in the system no
> matter how strong you make it. what matters is the torsional stiffness of
> each component, and how those stiffnesses add up to result in the resonant
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/01/02 |
In a message dated 3/4/02 11:53:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, vicw(at)vcn.com
writes:
> jerryb and others interested in water based paint; I used water borne
> covering and paint on my Kolb and love it. I wouldn't use anything else
> now
> that I have tried it. If you have any questions, contact me directly.
>
> Vic
>
I used 3 colors of Urethane Latex based water paint on mine too, and am
amazed at the flexibility and color retention on Firestar as well. the only
problem, that I encountered is the stickiness of it to the old polytone which
doesn't have a chance to stay on the plane when the zippered dohicky flaps
over and contacts it...the polytone comes off and sticks to the latex. I have
tried to raise the pieces with a knife blade and usually just paint over it
with more latex, but that is a hassle and not a real good solution.
But I am pleased with this Coronado latex with the exception of its too much
flexibility.
George Randolph....GeoR38
Akron Oh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Subject: | Final Inspection Fee |
John Hauck wrote:
(clip) << BTW: The FAA does not charge you one red cent to inspect
your airplane. If you get a "FAA designee" to inspect it,
then you are gonna have to shell out some money. The
advantage of using a designee is you can usually get one to
come do the inspection in a matter of days, rather than wait
on an FAA inspector to come when he gets time.
Take care,
john h >> (end clip)
Kolbers -
This is one excellent example of the usefulness of the transportability of
our Kolb airplanes.
I'm nearly ready for the final FAA inspection for airworthiness
certification of my Mark-3. I called the local FSDO to arrange this, and
they told me that an inspection by the FAA would be free. But if I hired a
DAR (designated airworthiness representative, the "FAA designee") to do the
inspection, he could charge me up to a few hundred dollars. So, of course
I'm wondering, why would anyone opt for having a DAR do the inspecton ($$$)
rather than the FAA (free)? The answer is: availability. If you set up a
meeting with a DAR, he will be at your specified location (airport) at your
convenience. If you try to arrange this with the FAA guy, his priorities
are mostly in other areas, and your meeting could be delayed for days or
weeks, depending on the FAA guy's availability and workload. Inspecting
homebuilts is low on their priority list.
My solution: I will trailer my Kolb to the FAA office parking lot and
assemble the airplane right there. Then have him inspect it. And I hope to
save myself several hundred bucks by doing it that way. I'll let everybody
know if it really turns out this way!
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
If your redrive supplier does not know
> all of this, then they are probably not capable of doing the engineering
> necessary to provide a reliable reduction drive.
>
> Topher
Topher/Gents:
Agree whole heartedly.
Would not want to be a test pilot for the redrive folks,
especially after I had paid them for the redrive.
Sometimes it is necessary to look real hard at something,
then make a realistic decision based on facts and not on
what we want to do or accomplish as an end product.
Big Lar, it ain't worth risk to attempt flight in something
that has not been proven in the air and has failed on the
ground.
Love ya like a Brother. Don't have that many good friends.
They are getting scarcer than hen's teeth now days.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Big Lar and Harmonic Vibration.... |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Lar...
Here is a web page that explains what causes harmonic vibration. Reading
this, you can imagine how much damage could be done to a gear box if it is
not dealt with properly.
http://www.fluidampr.com/problem.html
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
> Larry,
As you know, I too am modifying an auto engine for my Kolb (SlingShot).
I have seriously researched this problem of tortional resonance and redrive
over the last five years. A lot of good advice has been shared. This is
what I have come to believe:
Tortional resonance is a demon you can never get rid of. You can either
tame it or shift it into an rpm range that you don't use. Direct drive or
reduction doesn't matter, you still must deal with it.
Springs do not work here. They do absorb it, but they also transmit most
of it back into the system. Rubber both absorbs and dampens. I've heard
some intelligent people say that the Hivo chains have a built in dampener
because they have inheirant slack which causes the chain to be slung out by
centripetal force & this in turn can absorb some of the pulses. Other
respected men have told me this is not the case at all, so that aspect I
don't have a sure opinion on.
V-belts are great dampners because they slip a lot, but they are for that
reason also among the least effecient ways to go. (Not to mention they put a
high bending moment on the crankshaft... must be tight so as not to slip too
much).
Poly-V belts don't slip near as much but can still absorb pulses because
they have a certain amount of stretch.
Cog belts don't slip at all but also stretch & therefore have
significant absorbing/dampening qualities.
Gates PolyChain cog belts are made with Kevlar & they don't stretch at
all & have little to no absorbing/dampening ability.
Gears obviously do nothing here either. Direct drive is the same as
well. Friction slip devices work partially but by definition, transmit all
pulses while not slipping.
None of the above by themselves have the ability to adequately absorb
and dampen tortionals. A dampening device, preferably a rubber like
material, is a must. And a heafty flywheel is worth its wt. in gold. Any
notion that the weight/mass of the prop can replace the need for a flywheel
is totally misplaced as the flywheel must be between the crank and the
redrive or between the crank & prop if direct drive, to have any beneficial
effect.
As an aside, any redrive worth considering, must have an outboard
bearing on the crank pulley/gear to eliminate any bending of the crank.
This is what I have learned from people "Who have been there & broke
that."
...Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
Subject: | Cheap Bing 54 carbs |
I found this place that is selling Bing 54 carbs for $50. I ordered mine
yesterday. I do not have any association with these folks and I wouldn't
suggest ordering a carb until I get mine so I can report back. So much for
the disclaimer.
http://www.ktmworld.com/kbay.htm
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 377
Schenectady, NY
http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar/
"Reality is for those who lack imagination"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
I had a three blade warp drive on my Subaru ea 71 (direct drive) and it
would get a bad vibration when pulling back on power before landing. I put
a wood prop on, and it works great now . The wood prop was much lighter and
I couldn't tell of any difference in thrust.
Randy still flying the soobydoo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Carlisle" <rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
>
> Lar...
>
> Warp Drive is a great prop...But it is also the heaviest of the bunch. I
> wouldn't be surprised if that is your problem. Not too long ago I was
told
> by Great Plains that a composite prop would absolutely not work on a
direct
> drive VW. I'm not sure if they get around that with the reduction drive.
>
> Ross
>
> > From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
> > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 00:39:32 -0800
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
> >
> >
> > Forgot to answer your question........it's a Warp Drive.
> >
> > Larry Bourne
> > Palm Springs, Ca.
> > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> > http://www.gogittum.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Lar,
> >> What type of prop are you running? I know on the VW, they curse you if
> >> your run a compose prop on a VW direct drive. Check with the compose
prop
> >> manufacturers. Will break the cranks in no time. I suspect your
running
> >> into something similar. You may have to run a wood prop if your not.
I
> >> don't think hardening is the issue, its the spiked power pulses thus
you
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cheap Bing 54 carbs |
In a message dated 3/5/02 10:09:13 PM Eastern Standard Time,
solendor(at)nycap.rr.com writes:
> I found this place that is selling Bing 54 carbs for $50. I ordered mine
> yesterday. I do not have any association with these folks and I wouldn't
> suggest ordering a carb until I get mine so I can report back. So much for
> the disclaimer.
>
>
Checked the site, they show a 38mm Bing 54. Don't we usually use a 36mm on a
503? Good price, though.
By the way, I'm looking for a good, used, cheap 32mm Bing 54. I believe
these may be used on a Rotax 277, 337, or 447. This for the Teledyne 32ci 4
stroke on the mobile test stand.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
And a heafty flywheel is worth its wt. in gold. Any
> notion that the weight/mass of the prop can replace the need for a
flywheel
> is totally misplaced as the flywheel must be between the crank and the
> redrive or between the crank & prop if direct drive, to have any
beneficial
> effect.
great post on all counts. A prop can be used as a flywheel if the link
between it and the crank is very stiff, which your right it usually isn't so
then putting a flywheel in between can be helpful.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: Broken Input Shaft |
This is a issue that I have been wrestling with for years. Props do act
as a flywheel to a point but they also flex and can cause serious
harmonic vibration problems even when attached direct drive. My old
direct drive VW had the flywheel on one end of the crank an the prop on
the other. It would seem that having a flywheel on each end of the crank
would be ideal. The problem is that props do flex with each power stroke
and compression stroke and most nonwood props will break the crank shaft
on direct drive VW engines.
When I was looking for a reduction drive for a new VW engine I really
wanted one that had the reduction drive on the flywheel end of the crank
like BigLar's. The biggest problem was that BigLar's drive unit is built
with a chain drive and this gets such mixed reviews. This unit also has
a limited test history. The Gene Smith belt drive reduction unit that
I'm using looks weak and attaches to the pulley end of the crank but
they have a long testing history and it works. I did change to a
powerfin prop and to some extent this makes me a test pilot. I really
kicked this around for a while. I decided that a frail wood prop in a
pusher was as much a risk as the potential for harmonic problems with
this type of prop. I did choose a heavy flywheel, low compression
engine, and a low mass prop to minimize harmonic problems but there is
still a risk.
We may have beat this issue to death but....
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> Tophera(at)centurytel.net 03/06/02 03:47PM >>>
And a heafty flywheel is worth its wt. in gold. Any
> notion that the weight/mass of the prop can replace the need for a
flywheel
> is totally misplaced as the flywheel must be between the crank and
the
> redrive or between the crank & prop if direct drive, to have any
beneficial
> effect.
great post on all counts. A prop can be used as a flywheel if the link
between it and the crank is very stiff, which your right it usually
isn't so
then putting a flywheel in between can be helpful.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | water based paint |
I have had so many request for information about my water based paint that I
have decided to respond to the list. My apologies to those of you not
interested in this subject.
I used Aircraft Finishing Systems www.aircraftfinishing.com complete
covering, UV protections and paint. I purchased my fabric from Millers
because they had the lightweight fabric recommended for ultralights and
could supply the correct amount of material. I also ordered the wing fabric
rivets from them. I used two quarts of AFS glue, two quarts of AFS primer
and 1 gallon of color to finish my Firestar. I used auto type graphics for
my extra colors so you would need a quart or more of contrast color if you
dicided to go the route. The cost of AFS paint is approximately the same as
Aerothane however shipping is much less because it is shipped standard UPS
since the AFS products are non flammable and don't require hazardous
shipping charges.
The AFS system consist of a water based "blue glue" that works like contact
cement and works with regular Dacron fabric. After covering and shrinking
the fabric, the fabric is sealed with diluted glue. Then the fabric is
coated with a black UV protection (supplied by AFS). I sprayed on my UV
coating but I understand it can be applied with a roller. Then the AFS
finish coating in your choice of color is sprayed on or applied with a
roller. I sprayed my finish coating but understand some have used a paint
roller to apply the finish coat. I don't think I would recommend mixing
systems.
All of the AFS products are water diluted and do not have an offensive odor
and do not contain harsh chemicals. The paint is a two part paint and an
isocyanate catalyst is used. An isocyanate contains cyanide which is
poisonous however when water is added to dilute the paint the excess cyanide
is captured and therefore not sprayed into the air and a simple carbon
breathing mask can be used when spraying.
I have used Stitz and it is a worthwhile system however after using the AFS
system I would not go back to the Stitz.
Best of all the AFS paint dries to a nice shine.
Remember, I live in Wyoming and I used the AFS system in the winter time in
a garage heated with an open flame gas heater.
I don't get a commission on AFS products but I think I will give them a call
after this glowing endorsement.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cheap Bing 54 carbs |
Good catch. I thought all Bing 54s were the same. Oh well. I'll see if I can
use most of the parts.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Cheap Bing 54 carbs
>
> In a message dated 3/5/02 10:09:13 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> solendor(at)nycap.rr.com writes:
>
>
> > I found this place that is selling Bing 54 carbs for $50. I ordered
mine
> > yesterday. I do not have any association with these folks and I wouldn't
> > suggest ordering a carb until I get mine so I can report back. So much
for
> > the disclaimer.
> >
> >
>
> Checked the site, they show a 38mm Bing 54. Don't we usually use a 36mm
on a
> 503? Good price, though.
>
> By the way, I'm looking for a good, used, cheap 32mm Bing 54. I believe
> these may be used on a Rotax 277, 337, or 447. This for the Teledyne 32ci
4
> stroke on the mobile test stand.
>
> Shack
> FS I
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Alabama Fly-In March 23 |
Hello All,
EAA Chapter 1209, Saint Elmo AL. would like to exrend this open invatation to
anyone interested in attending our fifth annual spring fly in. We are
located in St. Elmo Al about seven miles from Mobile Regionial airport.
All types of aircraft are welcome.
Please see the attached flyer. Let us know if youo have any questions.
Thank you,
Jay Stevens
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Gherkins <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com> |
Subject: | Where to shorten wing |
Kolbers,
I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches
total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the
garage.
Is it best to take the 6" out of the wing tip, or somewhere in the
middle of the wing, and leave the wing tip alone?
I remember reading that it was important to keep the wing tip to
specifications on Kolbs, because it matters to the flight
characteristics.
Any advise?
Tim
Phx,AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Alabama Fly-In March 23 |
Hello All,
John H. informed me that the attachment did not come through to the Kolb list
so I am including it in this e-mail.
We hope that you can make it to our fly-in.
Jay
Experimental Aircraft Association
Saint Elmo, AL. Chapter #1209
Spring Fly - In
SATURDAY March 23, 2002
Saint Elmo, Alabama Airport ( 2R5 ) CTAF 122.9
7 miles south of Mobile AL Regional Airport
Spot Landing Competition
Young Eagles Flights
Aircraft Peoples ChoiceAward
10 gallons GAS for aircraft flown farthest distance to Fly-In
SATURDAY ------------- LUNCH - Hamburgers and Hot Dogs $5.00
donation
SATURDAYNIGHT ----- Bonfire and Marsh MellowToasting.
SUNDAYMORNING ------ FREE Continental Breakfast 7:00 - 9:00 am
OVERNIGHTCAMPING ON FIELD Friday & Saturday Night - Transportation to area
Motels provided
RaffleTickets will be sold for:
Framedsheet of =E2=80=9CClassic American
Aircraft=E2=80=9D stamps.
Split the Pot 50/50
drawing.
(Drawing will be Saturday night. You do not have to be present to win )
Bring a lawn chair !!!!
Information 251-865-4071 or 660-1130
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Where to shorten wing |
If it was mine, I would shorten the main spar 6" at the outboard end,
respace all the ribs outboard of the lift strut accordingly, and keep the
wingtip shape and size to plans.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Kolbers,
>I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches
>total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the
>garage.
>
>Is it best to take the 6" out of the wing tip, or somewhere in the
>middle of the wing, and leave the wing tip alone?
>
>I remember reading that it was important to keep the wing tip to
>specifications on Kolbs, because it matters to the flight
>characteristics.
>
>Any advise?
>Tim
>Phx,AZ
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Where to shorten wing |
Tim,
I would take it out of the tip because it will preserve more of the wing
lift profile and give you the lowest stall speed for the shortened wing.
Anyway you go if you install vortex generators it will help too.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Kolbers,
>I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches
>total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the
>garage.
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Where to shorten wing |
I have to go along with Brother Pike. Several years ago, Ron Christensen in
Orange County, CA did some very serious experimenting with the wingtips of
his "Mk III 1/2." He shortened them, added drooped tips, and so on, with
disappointing results. I saw the airplane - which was the inspiration for
my gull wing doors - and Ron is a real craftsman............beautiful
workmanship. He was careful & completely documented his work. As I said,
he tried several different lengths, and configurations, and the original,
stock wingtips were far ahead of the others, and are what he finally stayed
with. There may still be something in the archives..............seems like
it was around '97 or '98 that he was playing (??) with them.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Where to shorten wing
>
> If it was mine, I would shorten the main spar 6" at the outboard end,
> respace all the ribs outboard of the lift strut accordingly, and keep the
> wingtip shape and size to plans.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >
> >Kolbers,
> >I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches
> >total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the
> >garage.
> >
> >Is it best to take the 6" out of the wing tip, or somewhere in the
> >middle of the wing, and leave the wing tip alone?
> >
> >I remember reading that it was important to keep the wing tip to
> >specifications on Kolbs, because it matters to the flight
> >characteristics.
> >
> >Any advise?
> >Tim
> >Phx,AZ
> >
> >
> >---
> >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "D Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
"Kolb-List Digest List"
>>The paint is a two part paint and an
>>isocyanate catalyst is used. An isocyanate contains cyanide which is
>>poisonous however when water is added to dilute the paint the excess
cyanide
>>is captured and therefore not sprayed into the air and a simple carbon
>>breathing mask can be used when spraying.
Group:
I work in a auto factory where isocyanates were sprayed on in a primer coat
for composite parts, they are nasty. A "spacesuit" had to be worn wich had a
fresh air supply, and regular physical examinations were required if you
worked near that stuff. I would get a MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on
that paint before I would use it. One should be available from the supplier.
Spray safe! Darren FS1,Cent. MI.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Where to shorten wing |
> I would take it out of the tip because it will preserve more of the wing
> lift profile and give you the lowest stall speed for the shortened wing.
> Jack B. Hart FF004
Tim, Jack, Richard P:
Recommend leaving the wing alone and stretching the garage.
All the tinkering I have done with Kolbs, I have never
changed one of Homer's outside dimensions, especially on the
wings.
If I just had to change the wing to make it fit in my
garage, I would go the route Richard P suggested and take it
out of the outboard end of the main spar.
Homer designed the outboard end of the wing to meet his
performance requirements. I have enjoyed them for many
years.
However, I am no engineer, don't claim to be one, and don't
know if I can even spell "engineer". So take my opinion for
what it is worth.
A good man to talk to about this subject is Homer Kolb or
Dennis Souder. Anybody else, forget it.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Where to shorten wing |
> Kolbers,
> I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches
> total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the
> garage.
>
> Is it best to take the 6" out of the wing tip, or somewhere in the
> middle of the wing, and leave the wing tip alone?
>
> I remember reading that it was important to keep the wing tip to
> specifications on Kolbs, because it matters to the flight
> characteristics.
I shortened mine by simply not making the wing tip bow so large. it is the
weakest part of the wing and shortening it really stiffens it up. I would
not change the length of the main spar as it is already around two feet
inboard of the wingtip and your only planning on moving the tip inboard 6
inches. I would maintain the approximate shape of the wingtip other then
shortening it. I shortened mine 12" because then I did not need to splice
the trailing edge spar or the aileron spar. I did add to the aileron size
and made them flapperons to gain back some of the wing area. you will be
making a plane with a slightly less efficient wing. if you build real light
and don't carry a lot of stuff with you that wont matter. if you are
building heavy and add extras your going to have a wing that is working
hard, and will be high drag. small modifications in wing tip shape wont
matter much. a big drooped tip or something might matter...for better or
worse.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Where to shorten wing |
Shortening at the tips per Topher's (Christopher Armstrong) post is the
only reasonable thing IMO. I made my FS wings 4" shorter each side --
also primarily because of wanting to fit easier in the garage. If
there is slight diff in roll rate, fine. I'm light, so is my plane.
I'll add vortex generators and hope to see stall speed = or < standard
length wing without vg.
I modified my tips too. Why? Cuz I want to see what it will be like.
I look forward to test flying this mod, and if it ain't no good, I know
who to blame (yours truely). That's part of what is so nice and easy
about these vehicles. My tips are the shape of what Possum did with
his -- i.e. the top surface is the same as the rest of the airfoil, and
the bottom cups up instead of remaining flat.
-Ben Ransom
--- Tim Gherkins wrote:
>
>
> Kolbers,
> I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12
> inches
> total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the
> garage.
>
> Is it best to take the 6" out of the wing tip, or somewhere in the
> middle of the wing, and leave the wing tip alone?
>
> I remember reading that it was important to keep the wing tip to
> specifications on Kolbs, because it matters to the flight
> characteristics.
>
> Any advise?
> Tim
> Phx,AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | cage welding repair ? |
In my commiserating with Big Lar on setbacks, such as his broken
redrive, I mentioned that i found a crack in what was supposedly a
repaired tube in my cage. This is the diagonal tube in the main
bulkhead -- it goes from the starboard side up to the port side of the
wing spar carry-thru tube.
So, this wknd I'll set about repair on that, and I plan to replace the
tube. I'm now confident of my welding skills, but have a question.
Welded structures change shape from the heating. I'm planning on
getting some scrap steel lengths and making a brace/jig, which will
essentially be a big X shape, with the top ends of the X each bolting
to the wing spar carry thru holes, and the bottom ends bolting to the
holes where the bottom of the lift struts normally are pinned. As
well, I'll put a verticle length on each side of the X to keep it from
doing a scissor thing.
OK, so after I do all that, I'll cut out the bad diagonal tube member
from the cage and weld in a new one. I assume there will be strain
induced by this welding. When I pull off the X jig, the cage may prang
a little bit anyway. So, is making the jig in the first place just
overkill? There is minor temptation to not do the jig and just measure
the critical cage hole dimensions before and after the tube
replacement. I've seen a big hammer used to correct minor dimension
problems from heat strain.
OK, just writing this, I think I've talked myself out of even the minor
temptation. The effort for the jig just isn't that much and seems like
the right way to do it.
Anyone with experience in this area, I'm interested in your thoughts.
-Ben
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: cage welding repair ? |
A number of years ago I had to cut out and replace a number of destroyed
pieces of tubing and cluster joints on my Anglin J-6. I was doing touch and
goes, tail dragger, left main brake was defective and locked the left main
wheel up at 40 MPH just before I was ready to lift off. Snap ground loop.
Both landing gears ended up holding hands with the left wing lift struts.
The whole lower front fuselage was a disaster, because when the right main
snatched under and across, it took a couple tubes with it.
However, the upper fuselage was straight, both doors and windows were
straight, and the firewall was straight. By criss crossing a few wires
across the cabin and tightening them by twisting, both doors and windows
would open and close without binding. So I sawed out all the bent stuff,
tweaked the fuselage with the tensioned wires, and welded in all the new
tubes. Adjusted pressure so that the doors and windows would fit correctly,
heated the tubing that was causing a bind, and when all was done, it flew
hands off, and tracked correctly on the ground. The doors and windows
became the templates.
So you are wise to make some sort of template jig that will fit and touch
the same places after you get done as before you start, then you know it
will be OK. It doesn't need to be fancy, it merely needs to be accurate and
reliable.
You might consider crossing your cage with wires that you can tension, and
if it springs to an incorrect shape after welding, tighten the wire and
reheat the tubes, you can make it fit.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>In my commiserating with Big Lar on setbacks, such as his broken
>redrive, I mentioned that i found a crack in what was supposedly a
>repaired tube in my cage. This is the diagonal tube in the main
>bulkhead -- it goes from the starboard side up to the port side of the
>wing spar carry-thru tube.
>
>So, this wknd I'll set about repair on that, and I plan to replace the
>tube. I'm now confident of my welding skills, but have a question.
>Welded structures change shape from the heating. I'm planning on
>getting some scrap steel lengths and making a brace/jig, which will
>essentially be a big X shape, with the top ends of the X each bolting
>to the wing spar carry thru holes, and the bottom ends bolting to the
>holes where the bottom of the lift struts normally are pinned. As
>well, I'll put a verticle length on each side of the X to keep it from
>doing a scissor thing.
>
>OK, so after I do all that, I'll cut out the bad diagonal tube member
>from the cage and weld in a new one. I assume there will be strain
>induced by this welding. When I pull off the X jig, the cage may prang
>a little bit anyway. So, is making the jig in the first place just
>overkill? There is minor temptation to not do the jig and just measure
>the critical cage hole dimensions before and after the tube
>replacement. I've seen a big hammer used to correct minor dimension
>problems from heat strain.
>
>OK, just writing this, I think I've talked myself out of even the minor
>temptation. The effort for the jig just isn't that much and seems like
>the right way to do it.
>
>Anyone with experience in this area, I'm interested in your thoughts.
>-Ben
>
>=====
>http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: cage welding repair ? |
Richard,
Sounds like a good plan. I'm picturing that wires also would stretch,
and perhaps I might substitute all-thread. As in your wire method,
this would offer hte advantage of being able to screw in some tension,
or, if none is needed, they will also act as an accurate and fixed
measurement of the hole dimensions. Yah!
John,
Thanks, I'll try to give your brother a call in the morning. I have
not thought about just welding the crack closed. That would be nice,
as it would take me about as long as it takes to adjust the flame on
the torch. :) Don't think I wasn't feeling tempted as I went to lunch
after reading your idea! But, in these times of airframe duress, I've
referred to the FAA's A&P Airframe Handbook (AC 65-15, 1972 edition),
and it describes all sorts of more complicated methods of taking care
of dings and cracks in 4130 structural tubing. I'm thinkin this isn't
one of those cases of the government being more complicated cuz they
are, well, the government. In all their examples of dent or crack
mending, they describe techniques and limitations for sleeving (inside
or outside the original tube) or patching. The basis, I believe, is
that just welding a crack or hole closed creates a small concentrated
weak area around the weld, and a sleeve or patch with fishmouthed ends
and rose welds in the right spots spreads out the heat hardened (weak)
areas. The diagonal in my plane was bent about midway and banged cold
back straight, so it is just a little work hardened there, not enf to
be a problem by itself. The crack, all of 1/16" long and paper thin,
is lower down where a curved 1/8" tube is welded on each side of the
diagonal. So basically I feel the diagonal now has two strikes against
it -- that's enf. Interestingly, the crack is right next to the
weldments for this non-structural 1/8" curved tubing, which is a nice
example to a newbie like me of all the book discussion of weakening
occuring at the heat hardened area instead of the weldment itself.
I'll take a picture of things.
-long winded Ben
--- Richard Pike wrote:
>
> A number of years ago I had to cut out and replace a number of
> destroyed
> pieces of tubing and cluster joints on my Anglin J-6. I was doing
> touch and
> goes, tail dragger, left main brake was defective and locked the left
> main
> wheel up at 40 MPH just before I was ready to lift off. Snap ground
> loop.
> Both landing gears ended up holding hands with the left wing lift
> struts.
> The whole lower front fuselage was a disaster, because when the right
> main
> snatched under and across, it took a couple tubes with it.
> However, the upper fuselage was straight, both doors and windows were
> straight, and the firewall was straight. By criss crossing a few
> wires
> across the cabin and tightening them by twisting, both doors and
> windows
> would open and close without binding. So I sawed out all the bent
> stuff,
> tweaked the fuselage with the tensioned wires, and welded in all the
> new
> tubes. Adjusted pressure so that the doors and windows would fit
> correctly,
> heated the tubing that was causing a bind, and when all was done, it
> flew
> hands off, and tracked correctly on the ground. The doors and windows
> became the templates.
> So you are wise to make some sort of template jig that will fit and
> touch
> the same places after you get done as before you start, then you know
> it
> will be OK. It doesn't need to be fancy, it merely needs to be
> accurate and
> reliable.
> You might consider crossing your cage with wires that you can
> tension, and
> if it springs to an incorrect shape after welding, tighten the wire
> and
> reheat the tubes, you can make it fit.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >
> >In my commiserating with Big Lar on setbacks, such as his broken
> >redrive, I mentioned that i found a crack in what was supposedly a
> >repaired tube in my cage. This is the diagonal tube in the main
> >bulkhead -- it goes from the starboard side up to the port side of
> the
> >wing spar carry-thru tube.
> >
> >So, this wknd I'll set about repair on that, and I plan to replace
> the
> >tube. I'm now confident of my welding skills, but have a question.
> >Welded structures change shape from the heating. I'm planning on
> >getting some scrap steel lengths and making a brace/jig, which will
> >essentially be a big X shape, with the top ends of the X each
> bolting
> >to the wing spar carry thru holes, and the bottom ends bolting to
> the
> >holes where the bottom of the lift struts normally are pinned. As
> >well, I'll put a verticle length on each side of the X to keep it
> from
> >doing a scissor thing.
> >
> >OK, so after I do all that, I'll cut out the bad diagonal tube
> member
> >from the cage and weld in a new one. I assume there will be strain
> >induced by this welding. When I pull off the X jig, the cage may
> prang
> >a little bit anyway. So, is making the jig in the first place just
> >overkill? There is minor temptation to not do the jig and just
> measure
> >the critical cage hole dimensions before and after the tube
> >replacement. I've seen a big hammer used to correct minor dimension
> >problems from heat strain.
> >
> >OK, just writing this, I think I've talked myself out of even the
> minor
> >temptation. The effort for the jig just isn't that much and seems
> like
> >the right way to do it.
> >
> >Anyone with experience in this area, I'm interested in your
> thoughts.
> >-Ben
> >
> >=====
> >http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
> >
> >
> >---
> >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Hauck" <jimh474(at)nettally.com> |
Subject: | Re: cage welding repair ? |
Ben;
I'll be out of pocket for a couple of weeks. I'll be at my sons house in NJ.
You can call me there on Wed. evening, his number is 856-482-6476.
>From what I can gather from your post you have a very small crack next to a
weld. If the diagonal is in column, I would just reweld the joint and cover
the crack. If you are gas welding, post heat the weld area after you finish
welding.
Jim Hauck
I'll be home until around 8:00 am this date. Mar 9.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cage welding repair ?
>
> Richard,
> Sounds like a good plan. I'm picturing that wires also would stretch,
> and perhaps I might substitute all-thread. As in your wire method,
> this would offer hte advantage of being able to screw in some tension,
> or, if none is needed, they will also act as an accurate and fixed
> measurement of the hole dimensions. Yah!
>
> John,
> Thanks, I'll try to give your brother a call in the morning. I have
> not thought about just welding the crack closed. That would be nice,
> as it would take me about as long as it takes to adjust the flame on
> the torch. :) Don't think I wasn't feeling tempted as I went to lunch
> after reading your idea! But, in these times of airframe duress, I've
> referred to the FAA's A&P Airframe Handbook (AC 65-15, 1972 edition),
> and it describes all sorts of more complicated methods of taking care
> of dings and cracks in 4130 structural tubing. I'm thinkin this isn't
> one of those cases of the government being more complicated cuz they
> are, well, the government. In all their examples of dent or crack
> mending, they describe techniques and limitations for sleeving (inside
> or outside the original tube) or patching. The basis, I believe, is
> that just welding a crack or hole closed creates a small concentrated
> weak area around the weld, and a sleeve or patch with fishmouthed ends
> and rose welds in the right spots spreads out the heat hardened (weak)
> areas. The diagonal in my plane was bent about midway and banged cold
> back straight, so it is just a little work hardened there, not enf to
> be a problem by itself. The crack, all of 1/16" long and paper thin,
> is lower down where a curved 1/8" tube is welded on each side of the
> diagonal. So basically I feel the diagonal now has two strikes against
> it -- that's enf. Interestingly, the crack is right next to the
> weldments for this non-structural 1/8" curved tubing, which is a nice
> example to a newbie like me of all the book discussion of weakening
> occuring at the heat hardened area instead of the weldment itself.
>
> I'll take a picture of things.
>
> -long winded Ben
>
>
> --- Richard Pike wrote:
> >
> > A number of years ago I had to cut out and replace a number of
> > destroyed
> > pieces of tubing and cluster joints on my Anglin J-6. I was doing
> > touch and
> > goes, tail dragger, left main brake was defective and locked the left
> > main
> > wheel up at 40 MPH just before I was ready to lift off. Snap ground
> > loop.
> > Both landing gears ended up holding hands with the left wing lift
> > struts.
> > The whole lower front fuselage was a disaster, because when the right
> > main
> > snatched under and across, it took a couple tubes with it.
> > However, the upper fuselage was straight, both doors and windows were
> > straight, and the firewall was straight. By criss crossing a few
> > wires
> > across the cabin and tightening them by twisting, both doors and
> > windows
> > would open and close without binding. So I sawed out all the bent
> > stuff,
> > tweaked the fuselage with the tensioned wires, and welded in all the
> > new
> > tubes. Adjusted pressure so that the doors and windows would fit
> > correctly,
> > heated the tubing that was causing a bind, and when all was done, it
> > flew
> > hands off, and tracked correctly on the ground. The doors and windows
> > became the templates.
> > So you are wise to make some sort of template jig that will fit and
> > touch
> > the same places after you get done as before you start, then you know
> > it
> > will be OK. It doesn't need to be fancy, it merely needs to be
> > accurate and
> > reliable.
> > You might consider crossing your cage with wires that you can
> > tension, and
> > if it springs to an incorrect shape after welding, tighten the wire
> > and
> > reheat the tubes, you can make it fit.
> > Richard Pike
> > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >In my commiserating with Big Lar on setbacks, such as his broken
> > >redrive, I mentioned that i found a crack in what was supposedly a
> > >repaired tube in my cage. This is the diagonal tube in the main
> > >bulkhead -- it goes from the starboard side up to the port side of
> > the
> > >wing spar carry-thru tube.
> > >
> > >So, this wknd I'll set about repair on that, and I plan to replace
> > the
> > >tube. I'm now confident of my welding skills, but have a question.
> > >Welded structures change shape from the heating. I'm planning on
> > >getting some scrap steel lengths and making a brace/jig, which will
> > >essentially be a big X shape, with the top ends of the X each
> > bolting
> > >to the wing spar carry thru holes, and the bottom ends bolting to
> > the
> > >holes where the bottom of the lift struts normally are pinned. As
> > >well, I'll put a verticle length on each side of the X to keep it
> > from
> > >doing a scissor thing.
> > >
> > >OK, so after I do all that, I'll cut out the bad diagonal tube
> > member
> > >from the cage and weld in a new one. I assume there will be strain
> > >induced by this welding. When I pull off the X jig, the cage may
> > prang
> > >a little bit anyway. So, is making the jig in the first place just
> > >overkill? There is minor temptation to not do the jig and just
> > measure
> > >the critical cage hole dimensions before and after the tube
> > >replacement. I've seen a big hammer used to correct minor dimension
> > >problems from heat strain.
> > >
> > >OK, just writing this, I think I've talked myself out of even the
> > minor
> > >temptation. The effort for the jig just isn't that much and seems
> > like
> > >the right way to do it.
> > >
> > >Anyone with experience in this area, I'm interested in your
> > thoughts.
> > >-Ben
> > >
> > >=====
> > >http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
> > >
> > >
> > >---
> > >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> > >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Elder" <billelder(at)denver.net> |
Subject: | Re: Where to shorten wing |
I added an eight foot extension to one side of my two-car garage to
accomodate building my Mark III. It took only a couple of days and the cost
was minimal. Roofed it with tarpaper. Thought it was only going to be
needed for six months and now it's been over two years! But getting close
now. I would much rather go this route than mess with a great airplane
design. Just my thoughts. Bill in Colorado. Good luck to you! Do not
archive
-----Original Message-----
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com <SGreenpg(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, March 08, 2002 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Where to shorten wing
>
>In a message dated 3/8/02 9:26:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com writes:
>
>
>> I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Is the List down ??
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
No.I think every one got burnt out on the BROKEN INPUT SHAFT. ha ha
Paul Sasseville
Firestar II
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Test
>
> Is the List down ??
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Herb Gearheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
Guys
Try this one. Need advice. I have dibs on a MkIII with a 350 hour 582 DCDI Rotax
engine. What is the engine worth and what will it cost to rebuild it? Herb in
Ky
Paul Sasseville wrote:
>
> No.I think every one got burnt out on the BROKEN INPUT SHAFT. ha ha
>
> Paul Sasseville
> Firestar II
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
> To: "Kolb"
> Subject: Kolb-List: Test
>
> >
> > Is the List down ??
> >
> > Larry Bourne
> > Palm Springs, Ca.
> > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> > http://www.gogittum.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Oil tank location, pros and cons |
Craig Nelson is building a Mk III extra down in Phoenix. A questions came
up as to where to install the oil tank other then in the front. He was
thinking of installing it behind the engine and in front of the prop. This
would make it easier to add or change the oil. Any suggestions would be
greatly appreciated.
Take a look;
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/milows/oiltank.jpg
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
C-172 N2506U
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02 |
At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming Eagle
(Kolb
Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | BRS model750 Sale Atlanta |
BRS model#750 Sale $1250 Atlanta
BRS model 750 with Kolb mount kit guessing 1 - 1.5 years old.
I am selling a cannister chute for the family of a friend
that had sudden stroke and died before he completed the building
of his Kolb Kit which he had ordered it for.
Shipping at cost.
Scott in Atlanta 678 290-0507
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | FireStar dolly...........thumbs |
Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might
ask.
I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. This
means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to push
er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the question.
I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could
attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc or
a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop or
with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel would
ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures?
Thanks for the help guys
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Shorten wing Or: Hang It Differently |
Tim,
With my old UltraStar, I was forced to remove the wings each time I flew
because in the original US design, the folding-wing-universal-joint was on
the main spar, which made the height of the folded plane about 8ft, which
would not fit in my trailer or garage! My solution was to make a
bracket to hang the wing on after I removed the bolt from the U-joint, still
keeping the wings tucked on the plane.
Removing the bolt was made easy: I got, what I believe is called an AN
hinge bolt. It has a flat head, or tang, with a hole in it that makes it
easy to grab hold of with your fingers. I used it instead of the standard
AN hexagon head bolt to secure the U-joint. Instead of a nylock nut, I used
an AN Wing Nut. I then drilled a hole in the bolt above the wing nut for a
spring clip, then I ground off all the threads beyond the hole & tappered
the end of the hing bolt so it would find its way through the U-joint
easily. No tools were required & less than 2 minutes was added to my setup
time.
You could do the same. You could make a simple hanger that would hold
your wings up front. And you could make a saddle that hangs over the top of
the fuselage to hold the rear of the wings. The saddle could have levers on
both sides that hang down & allow the wings to move back & forth when you
put your new U-joint pin/bolt in & out, the hangers up front would hold the
wings up & forward while in the garage. Bungees & foam could secure
everything.
You could fold the wings back as normal, but hang them on the swinging
levers. Then you just remove the U-joint pin/bolt, pull the wing forward 6"
& hang it on the forward bracket. Its something to think about.
....Richard Swiderski
>
> I agree with Steve. Once you have the wings all unhooked and ready to
fold,
> there is only one bolt left between folding and removing the wings> >
> >> I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches
> >> total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the
> >> garage.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JOHN M. COOLEY" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02 |
Hi Vic and Gang,
Way to go Vic. Hope you many enjoyable hours in your Firestar.
Later,
John Cooley
----- Original Message -----
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02
>
> At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming
Eagle
> (Kolb
> Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane
>
> Vic
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02 |
Good for you, Vic. Wyoming will never be the same. Yahooooo ! ! !
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02
>
> At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming
Eagle
> (Kolb
> Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane
>
> Vic
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Oil tank location, pros and cons |
Not that I have any authority here, or specific knowledge to give, but, I
couldn't help but interject that my thoughts on this subject would be most
focused on the TEMPERATURE of the oil, due to the placement of the
oil tank BEHIND the engine and in the path of the heated air (as opposed
to the fresher, clearer, cooler air) passing over, under, around and through
the heated engine.
Sorry if I jumped too soon,
George Bass
USUA ID # 80399
USUA Club # 555
USUA Club # 770
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Oil tank location, pros and cons
> (snip, snip, snip)
>He was thinking of installing it behind the engine and in front of the
prop.
> (snip, snip, snip)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02 |
Way to go Vic, knew you'd do it. Congratulations
-----Original Message-----
From: VIC <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Date: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:57 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02
>
>At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming
Eagle
>(Kolb
>Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane
>
>Vic
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Firefly kit in Atlanta |
Firefly kit with about one third construction finished.
Am selling for family of friend who passed away before finishing.
Complete kit without engine, chute or paint or covering.
Has doors ( I think) windshield, and pod.
Fusealage in epoxy primer with tail section completed and
installed. All other kit parts as shipped from factory.
$5,500 dollars. Must be picked up in Atlanta, GA
Scott Perkins 678 290-0507
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02 |
does anyone else gert a message that says"kolb-list digest 21 messages " and
then have one message"way to go Vic ,knew you'd do it , congratulations" or
am I the only one that doesn' tget it??? chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02
>
> Way to go Vic, knew you'd do it. Congratulations
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VIC <vicw(at)vcn.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:57 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02
>
>
> >
> >At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming
> Eagle
> >(Kolb
> >Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane
> >
> >Vic
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs |
Hi Gary
For moving my Firestar II I lift the tailboom over my shoulder and walk with
it.
Paul Sasseville
Firestar II
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
>
> Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might
> ask.
>
> I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway.
This
> means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to
push
> er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the
question.
> I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could
> attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc
or
> a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop or
> with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel
would
> ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures?
>
> Thanks for the help guys
>
> Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs |
Hi Paul,
Yeah I can do that for a while but the distance is to great and bein in my
mid 50's may not be so great on the ol ticker. I will be movein this thing
over driveway lawn and field for over 100 yards. I need somethin that I can
attach to an iron horse of some kind. ;-} Ain't as young as I used to be.
Gary
---------------
>From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
>Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 20:36:08 -0500
>
>
>
>Hi Gary
>
>For moving my Firestar II I lift the tailboom over my shoulder and walk
>with
>it.
>
>Paul Sasseville
>Firestar II
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Subject: Kolb-List: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
>
>
> >
> > Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might
> > ask.
> >
> > I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway.
>This
> > means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to
>push
> > er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the
>question.
> > I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could
> > attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc
>or
> > a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop
>or
> > with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel
>would
> > ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures?
> >
> > Thanks for the help guys
> >
> > Gary
> >
> >
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
I have just installed a computer joy stick on the handle of my MK X
joystick. It looks great and I have 5 buttons to play with. I was wondering
what to do with them. Perhaps I can wire in one of those little noise
makers to give laser sounds and gunshots but to operate the starter and
kill switch I am wondering how much amperage I can put through those little
conductive rubber type pressure switches. Does anyone know? Could I wire in
a smaller relay to operate the larger starter relay if I had to.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: control stick |
hey Woody,
Anything is possible nowdays. Put your question out on the aeroelectric
list, I guarantee you'll get a comprehensive reply. ...Richard Swiderski
Subject: Kolb-List: control stick
> I have just installed a computer joy stick on the handle of my MK X
> joystick. It looks great and I have 5 buttons to play with. I was
wondering ... ? Could I wire in
> a smaller relay to operate the larger starter relay if I had to.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
From Skydancer:
The following is from the March 2002 issue of The Recreational
Flyer newsletter:
"Wolfgang Langewische, the author of "Stick and Rudder, An
Explanation of the Art of Flying" died on February 9, 2002 at
the age of 94. An aviation classic for the past half century,
the book was assembled from a number of aviation articles that
he wrote in the 1940s. As a reporter for the Saturday Evening
Post, his travels took him around the world. Wolfgang was also
a test pilot for Cessna and the Vought division of United
Aircraft. The past twenty-five years of his life he spent
writing another aviation manuscript. In his remembrance, above
all Wolfgang was a humble man who would rather listen and learn
than to speak of his accomplishments."
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02 |
> At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming Eagle
> (Kolb
> Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane
>
> Vic
Vic/Gents:
Way to go. We are proud of you.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs |
In a message dated 3/11/02 9:02:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gbthacker(at)hotmail.com writes:
> . I need somethin that I can
> attach to an iron horse of some kind. ;-} Ain't as young as I used to be.
>
>
Gary, if you still need something, email me off-list & I'll send you a
drawing of my dolly I use on my Firestar. It can easily be adapted to hook
to your mower or a trailer hitch.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs |
WalMart.
Toy department.
Cheap skateboard.
Cut a slot in it for the tailwheel to drop into.
Attach a length of EMT to the skateboard to hook to your tug.
Are you done yet?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might
>ask.
>
>I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. This
>means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to push
>er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the question.
> I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could
>attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc or
>a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop or
>with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel would
>ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures?
>
>Thanks for the help guys
>
>Gary
>
>
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs |
In a message dated 3/12/02 12:02:39 AM Eastern Standard Time,
richard(at)BCChapel.org writes:
> WalMart.
> Toy department.
> Cheap skateboard.
> Cut a slot in it for the tailwheel to drop into.
> Attach a length of EMT to the skateboard to hook to your tug.
> Are you done yet?
>
>
Good idea for straight-line pulling, but I don't think it would turn very
well.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: control stick |
Possum ??? Here's yer chance.................... Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: control stick
>
> I have just installed a computer joy stick on the handle of my MK X
> joystick. It looks great and I have 5 buttons to play with. I was
wondering
> what to do with them. Perhaps I can wire in one of those little noise
> makers to give laser sounds and gunshots but to operate the starter and
> kill switch I am wondering how much amperage I can put through those
little
> conductive rubber type pressure switches. Does anyone know? Could I wire
in
> a smaller relay to operate the larger starter relay if I had to.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs |
> Yeah I can do that for a while but the distance is to great and bein in my
> mid 50's may not be so great on the ol ticker. I will be movein this
thing
> over driveway lawn and field for over 100 yards. I need somethin that I
can
You need a powered tug (riding lawnmower) to go that distance.
Paul Sasseville
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs |
Gary,
I made a two wheel swivel dolly for moving my FireFly when the wings were
folded. I will take some pictures and post them to the web so you can see
how it is made. I make it out of scrap wood, wheels, handle and a new
small lazy susan bearing. It could easily be adapted to larger wheels and
a straight hitch bar for use of a riding lawn mower as a tug.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might
>ask.
>
>I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. This
>means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to push
>er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the question.
> I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could
>attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc or
>a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop or
>with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel would
>ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures?
>
>Thanks for the help guys
>
>Gary
>
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: control stick |
><swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
>
>hey Woody,
>
> Anything is possible nowdays. Put your question out on the aeroelectric
>list, I guarantee you'll get a comprehensive reply. ...Richard Swiderski
Thanks for the thought but the idea of getting on another mailing list
is not appealing. I get 50 emails a day already and don't want anymore.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gary Wockner <gwockner(at)nrel.colostate.edu> |
Subject: | Kolb Firefly Kit(s) For Sale - Estate Sale |
Hello,
I am selling a Kolb Firefly Kit from my father's estate. The kits were
purchased in 1996. The wing ribs are pre-assembled. He assembled the
tail unit and it is attached to theTube. I believe that the motor
mounting structure is also assembled, otherwise the kits are in pieces.
To my knowledge, all pieces are accounted for. There is no motor. This
sale includes kits #1 and kits #2. (Back in 1996 this was called kits
#1 and #3. #2 was the covering materials -- I believe). All manuals and
assembly instructions are included.
Asking Price = $4,000.
Buyer must come get the kits. No delivery is possible.
The kit is in my mother's garage in Illinois (about 80 miles south of
Chicago). Please respond to me (Gary Wockner) at (815)432-3507 until
Wednesday night March 13th. After March 13th, respond to me at (970)
407-1163. You may email me anytime.
Cordially,
Gary Wockner
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: control stick |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Woody...
Those switches will handle about 500ma continuous. Ive put up to an amp
through them, but they will fail eventually with that much current. Best
bet is to go to radio shack and buy a few relays with a contact rating that
is equal to or greater then your load and a coil current less than 500ma.
Ross
> From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 00:12:09 -0500
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: control stick
>
>
>> <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
>>
>> hey Woody,
>>
>> Anything is possible nowdays. Put your question out on the aeroelectric
>> list, I guarantee you'll get a comprehensive reply. ...Richard Swiderski
>
>
> Thanks for the thought but the idea of getting on another mailing list
> is not appealing. I get 50 emails a day already and don't want anymore.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Just reading the new April, '02 Motorhome magazine, and it seems others
have had John Haucks' problem with rats getting into the wiring etc.,
when storing their RV's. Apparently, mothballs do a good job of keeping
the little buggers out, but leave a strong smell. This guy has found
that using the "Fabric Softener" sheets that you put in the dryer with
your clothes do a good job of keeping the critters out, and leave a
pleasant smell, to boot. Good thought, and worth checking. Good
Luck. Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tim Gherkins <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com> |
Subject: | Re: Where to shorten wing |
Kolbers,
I very much appreciate all the input on line as well as off line about
shortening my Firestar wing panels actually 5.5 inches. The same day I
posted this question, I shot a short message of to Dennis S. and got a
reply. He said,
"Hi Tim,
Just shorten the bow tip - I would not shorten the spar.
Happy building!
Dennis"
Will Uribe visited us here in Phoenix for the second time this saturday, and
took a few pictures(see his recent posts) and advised me to not change the
wing in any way, and that I should change my garage like some of you
mentioned.
It was good to talk to Will and his friend Jack. Will and I talked for close
to 6 hours, about Firestars performance and handling, building etc. Will
really is a good guy and advised me on many aspects of building and flying a
Kolb.
As for my decision on how to shorten my wing panels. I am leaning toward my
first intention as well as the advise of Dennis S. Just shorten the bowed
tip. 5.5 inches is roughly about 1/5 the length of the wing tip which has a
total length of 24.5 inches. A 19 inch wing tip I feel is acceptable,
compared to knocking out walls in a garage or trying to cut on a 5" spar.
I'll let Will fly my Firestar when it is complete next spring and see if he
notices any difference in flight performance compared to his Firestar, and
post our findings for the archives and future Kolb builders.
Regards,
Tim
Tim Gherkins wrote:
>
> Kolbers,
> I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches
> total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the
> garage.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs |
Gary Thacker wrote:
>
> Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might
> ask.
>
> I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. This
> means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to push
> er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the question.
> I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could
> attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc or
> a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop or
> with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel would
> ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures?
>
> Thanks for the help guys
>
> Gary
>
Gary,
I have been towing my FireFly to my airstrip for the last three years. The
strip is about a half mile away up and down hills. I use the trailer hitch on
my car to tow. I made a support hitch that lifts the boom and tail wheel about
eight inches off the ground trailering the rest on the main gear. It attaches
to the T-bar that fits on the boom to hold the wings when folded. Have made
over a hundred trips back and forth to the air strip without any damage to the
plane. I have to make some sharp turns on my driveway which is also up hill and
I don't have to worry about the plane tracking behind properly.
I don't have any pictures of the hitch other than on the plane which hides most
of it. It's constructed of angle steel, pipe, EMT, bolts. foam pipe insulation
and a trailer hitch. It does require welding to fabricate.
I think you live close to me in my home town if I remember correctly. I could
bring it to you to look at if your interested. I will make a point of taking a
picture of just the hitch for anyone that might be interested.
Terry FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: oil tank location |
From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
03/12/2002 12:02:42 PM
Thats a nice fat engine ya got there!
I have my oil tank in the front and dont find it much of an inconvenience
really. I can check the oil level without using a stool by reaching up
from behind the wing, but perhaps my height helps me there. Oil changes
require a step ladder of course, but are just not frequent enough for me to
consider changing the oil tank location.
Where ever you put the tank, you will need to tank into account where it
lies vertically with respect to the engine. Ideally, it is centered along
the crankshaft. Too far up or down and you could have problems. Check the
installation manual on this. I can also recommend the guys at Lockwood
Aviation for advice - they may have some input on the tank location.
Regards
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
Santa Barbara, California 93117
Tel: 805-964-6010
fax: 805-964 0259
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: transport dolly |
From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
03/12/2002 12:11:04 PM
Gary:
Check the archives for my post regarding a saddle and attached castoring
wheel that I use to help me in pushing my plane around and getting it into
a trailer. It attaches easily to the fuselage tube in front of the tail.
I believe there was a picture of it posted as well which is much easier to
look at then me trying to describe it. Also works great to get your
leading edges up further off the ground when the wings are folded. I have
since modified it to use a larger wheel which was a big improvement,
especially for dirt and gravel areas. Let me know if you cant find it and
I'll send you a picture.
regards,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
Santa Barbara, California 93117
Tel: 805-964-6010
fax: 805-964 0259
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 03/11/02 |
The plane had been ready for more than a week but the wind wouldn't let up
and even when the wind slowed down it was blowing across the runway. I had
about 30 minutes of taxi time and everything seemed to function correctly;
after I made a slight aileron adjustment. I was really nervous about the
first flight but I recently took some dual time in a Maxair Breezy so I felt
prepared. My instructor had flown a Kolb and he said if I could handle the
Breezy the Kolb would be easy to manage. After 4 hours in the Breezy I
wasn't sure that I was handling the Breezy or just hanging onto a controlled
crash.
I went out to the airstrip Monday morning and the wind was just perfect so I
decided that now was the time. I climbed into the Kolb, my understanding
wife acting as my safety person. Amazingly I was not nervous at all and
surprised at how calm I was. I taxied up and down the strip to let the
engine
warm up and to wake up my feet and turned off the strip to let a spray plane
land. Then I taxied back out and lined up on the runway and smoothly
increased the power. A little forward stick and I felt the tail come up,
kept the plane lined up, went to full power and eased up on the stick and
the Kolb flew. I completed a nice pattern at 400 feet and came back
around, set up for the landing and with a touch of power made one the best
wheel landings I have ever made. My instructor was right. If you can get a
breezy on the ground without damage, the Kolb is a piece of cake. Other
than the need for a little left rudder trim, the Kolb flies like a dream.
I live in Wyoming but I am spending the winter at Buckeye, AZ and the Kolb
and trailer are parked at a small spray plane strip west of Buckeye.
Spray plane pilots don't have radios and wouldn't use them if they had them.
Also they don't pay much attention to a wind sock so you have to keep a
sharp eye out. The nice thing is that they are usually below me (Spay
planes have a service ceiling of 200' agl) and they are big and yellow so
easy to see.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: oil tank location |
I can check the oil level without using a stool by
reaching up
> from behind the wing, but perhaps my height helps me there. Oil changes
> require a step ladder of course, but are just not frequent enough for me to
> consider changing the oil tank location.
> Erich Weaver
Erich/Gang:
I bought some self adhesive non-skid material, but an oval
shape large enough for me to stand on, and stuck that sucker
to the top of the tail boom. I stand on the tailboom to do
my inspections and maintenance on top of the engine. Been
using this system since Firestar days.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
"Sam Clonts" , "Ruth Bryant" ,
"Ronnie Collins" , "Roger Zerkle" ,
"Kolb List" , "John Hauck" ,
"John Anderson" ,
"Jenifer R Strumbel" ,
"Jackie Sellers" ,
"Ivan Myslawchuk" ,
"Herb Gearheart" ,
"Edward Steuber" ,
"Dennis Kirby" ,
"Arlyn Moen"
-----Original Message-----
From: Elise Bell [mailto:ebell(at)southga.tec.ga.us]
John Watford; Chris Wade; Carla Turner; Larry Trussell; Mike Treadway; Jack
Teal; Jerry Stovall; Yolanda Stevens; Gloria Spence; Don Smith; Wray
Skipper; Diana Skipper; Dale Sellers; Michelle Seay; Michelle Sealy; Brenda
Rutherford; Duane Register; Mike Reaves; Michele Ragsdale; Amanda Pryor;
Gary Prince; Sarah Pride; Jerry Pope; Gil Pittman; Julie Partain; Malissa
Parker; John Parker; Rachel Oliver; Teresa O'Bryant; Thomas Moody; William
Mathis; Mack Martin; Thomas Lloyd; Hugh Little; Karen Lewis; Edna Laster;
John Lapinski; Monte Kilcrease; John Kelly; Eulish Jones; Sheila Johnson;
Sam Irwin; Andrea Ingram; Bob House; Raymond Holt; Donna Hollis; Janet
Heard; Pam Harvey; Lemond Hall; Edith Ann Green; Wayne Gosa; Mark Fletcher;
David Finley; A. Harry Dragon; Johnny Dodson; Richard Davis; Angela Dailey;
Brenda Cronemeyer; Mike Collins; Mark Collier; Mike Cochran; Randy Clawson;
Deborah Burks; Phillip Brown; Mark Brooks; Debbie Boyles; Brenda Boone;
Annita Barron; Vickie Austin; Pete Arrington; Martha Arrington; Tony Adams
Subject: FW: Tribute
-----Original Message-----
From: Ford, Sabine S [mailto:Sabine.Ford(at)Benning.Army.Mil]
Subject: FW: Tribute
Osama Bin Laden, your time is short;
We'd rather you die, than come to court.
Why are you hiding if it was in God's name?
Your just a punk with a turban; a pathetic shame.
I have a question, about your theory and laws;
"How come you never die for the cause?"
Is it because you're a coward who counts on others?
Well here in America, we stand by our brothers.
As is usual, you failed in your mission;
If you expected pure chaos, you can keep on wishing
Americans are now focused and stronger than ever;
Your death has become our next endeavor.
What you tried to kill, doesn't live in our walls;
It's not in buildings or shopping malls.
If all of our structures came crashing down;
It would still be there, safe and sound.
Because pride and courage can't be destroyed;
Even if the towers leave a deep void.
We'll band together and fill the holes
We'll bury our dead and bless their souls.
But then our energy will focus on you;
And you'll feel the wrath of the
Red, White and Blue.
So slither and hide like a snake in the grass;
Because America's coming to
kick your ass!!!
Keep this email going. PASS IT ON
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com> |
Subject: | FW: Problem with tubes |
The following is an E-mail that I sent to kolb the other day. Just checking
to see if anyone else ran into these things
O.k. I finally got started on kit one read the instructions made a work area
and resigned my car to the parking lot for the next few years. Now I have a
problem.
This is for a Mark III XTRA
First: on page two Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator the page shows three
tubes being cut out of 1" OD .058 Alum tube 31.25", 54" and 49" long total
134.25" multiple by two for the other side and we have a total of 22'-4 -
1/2" . I received one tube for 12' and one tube marked 4'. My packing sheet
dated 12-20-01 by J.B. has the 54 FT crossed out and 16 FT hand written in.
I have cut the 12 FT tube to make one side but I do not have enough material
to make both sides.
Anyone else have this problem?
Second concern: the note "Bracket "D" (typ) attached with 1/8 x 1/8 rivets
to 7/8" & 3/4" tube with 2 rivets in each tube" My question is what 7/8 and
3/4 tube is the note talking about since the tube that is located next to
the note is 1" x.035. Please advise what to do.
Third: the 5/16 od x .035" alum diagonal braces running to the vertical tube
1" od x 058" how many and what size rivets attach these tubes to brace "D"
and made up brace on leading edge?
Finally the 3/36 hole that is drilled is unclear on my print. Is the hole
drilled TDC on the 1" od .058 tube?
I will be sending the unpainted steel parts back as discuss 1/31/02 on
Monday. I never did get that call about the main tail boom. So I have a
suggestion I will be going to Oshkosh I can bring the tube with be and we
can swap for a power coated tube.
Ken James
www.geocities.com/kjamesdesign/ <http://www.geocities.com/kjamesdesign/>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs |
Richard.......
Will this thing go over grass and fields. Sounds great for the pavement but
will it work on dirt? Your right sounds awful simple.
Gary
---------
>
>WalMart.
>Toy department.
>Cheap skateboard.
>Cut a slot in it for the tailwheel to drop into.
>Attach a length of EMT to the skateboard to hook to your tug.
>Are you done yet?
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael Laing" <bigtires2(at)attbi.com> |
can anyone with a firestar kpx manual and a scanner e-mail me the pages
that refer to the cg? I would be very greatful.
also the chord measurments.
thank you
michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6
and back to 5.
The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and
checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in
the engine? Any suggestions.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/10/02 |
Dale Sellers: please contact me off list
Vic vicw(at)vcn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce n' Kathy" <n3nrr(at)erols.com> |
I had problems with my rotax 503 dcdi. First everything was fine, but
when I went to mount my strobes, I found that the alternator windings
(at the spades lugs) were shorted toghether from the factory with a
shorting clip. I removed the clip and attached my strobe pwr supply.
since then my tach has been Erratic. My guess is that the alternator
has to be loaded. I was told from the strobe mfg that they shorted the
alternator on some engines to keep the loading even. I think it was to
keep the alternator spuratic noise down.
--
Bruce n' Kathy
________________________________________________________________________________
Vic,
i had erratic tach on my "582" converted SeaDoo engine when my battery
became fully charged. I installed a set of lights to keep a load going &
the tach worked great. ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: RPM erratic
>
> My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6
> and back to 5.
> The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and
> checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in
> the engine? Any suggestions.
>
> Vic
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: control stick |
How much does a starter solenoid draw?
>Woody...
>
>Those switches will handle about 500ma continuous.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 03/12/02First flight |
Nice job on your 1st. flight. Maintain your speed on landing, as when you
level off, there is not much weight and your speed will deteriate very
quickly. If you are a foot off the deck (ok) 6 ft. off the deck (ouch bent
gear). Again congratulations and hope you have many hrs. ahead of safe
flying .
Bob G
Albany NY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | APilot(at)webtv.net (Vic Gibson) |
Subject: | Mark III for sale |
Almost finished $17,000. a/c 530, 257-7331 (from March 18 thru June
10th)
Vic Gibson
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: control stick |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
I'm not really sure. I think more than 500ma. I would put a lighter relay
in between the switch and the starter relay.
> From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:32:30 -0500
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: control stick
>
>
>
> How much does a starter solenoid draw?
>
>
>> Woody...
>>
>> Those switches will handle about 500ma continuous.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Subject: | Re: FW: Problem with tubes |
Ken,
First:
Apparently your prints have the wrong tubing sizes. Only the leading edge
of the horizontal stab is 1" x .058, the Trailing edge and the inside edge
are both 7/8 x .049. The 54' on the pick list is from the original Xtra
Horizontal stab. ( it was widened at the outside edge to 12 inches) There
were only around 20 Xtra kits produced before Kolb went back to the original
MKIII horizontal stab (smaller and triangular) .
Second:
The 7/8 is correct the 1"x .035 is a typo. Ask Kolb for new prints.
Third:
2 - 1/8" x 1/8" ss rivets on each end of each tube.
Finally:
The 3/36?? should be 3/16 is drilled TDC all the way through BDC of the 7/8"
x .049 trailing edge tube, this is for the tail rigging cable.
These problems can be frustrating, ask me how I know! Just be patient and
work with Kolb. They will do whatever it takes. Just give them a chance and
work with them.
Let me know (off list if you want) if you have any other questions.
Guy Swenson
MK III Xtra - 3053B
> First: on page two Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator the page shows three
> tubes being cut out of 1" OD .058 Alum tube 31.25", 54" and 49" long
total
> 134.25" multiple by two for the other side and we have a total of 22'-4 -
> 1/2" . I received one tube for 12' and one tube marked 4'. My packing
sheet
> dated 12-20-01 by J.B. has the 54 FT crossed out and 16 FT hand written
in.
> Second concern: the note "Bracket "D" (typ) attached with 1/8 x 1/8
rivets
> to 7/8" & 3/4" tube with 2 rivets in each tube" My question is what 7/8
and
> 3/4 tube is the note talking about since the tube that is located next to
> the note is 1" x.035. Please advise what to do.
>
> Third: the 5/16 od x .035" alum diagonal braces running to the vertical
tube
> 1" od x 058" how many and what size rivets attach these tubes to brace "D"
> and made up brace on leading edge?
>
> Finally the 3/36 hole that is drilled is unclear on my print. Is the hole
> drilled TDC on the 1" od .058 tube?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: control stick |
I'm sure you can make it work some way BUT... Do you really want to have
these functions on your control stick? From personal experience I have
found that switches on a control stick can be accidently pressed when
you get busy. On at least one occasion I screwed up something in flight
and inadvertently pressed the push to talk and said #%$#%#%#..... I
didn't respond to the tower. If I was hit by a wind gust on landing and
gripped the kill switch at the wrong time or the starter on a short
strip takoff things could go badly.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> rrcarl(at)concentric.net 03/13/02 08:43AM >>>
I'm not really sure. I think more than 500ma. I would put a lighter
relay
in between the switch and the starter relay.
> From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:32:30 -0500
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: control stick
>
>
>
> How much does a starter solenoid draw?
>
>
>> Woody...
>>
>> Those switches will handle about 500ma continuous.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: FW: Problem with tubes |
James
Sounds like you may have received the material list
for the "new" smaller Hoz. stab. and the old drawing.
Some of the early Xtra, mine included, has the larger
tail.
Later they went back to the original MkIII design.
I have been sent new drawings but I had already built
my tail and didn't change.You should get them to work
through the design changes with you.
Actually, my original drawings showed the original MK
III tail (old style) and a revised drawing showing the
larger version which I built.
Now they are back to where they started.
Anyway, I am sure that Kolb will fix you right up.
I have had no problem getting minor shortages or
incorrect tubes replaced.
Lots of luck
Ed
Dallas, MK3/X
--- "James, Ken" wrote:
>
>
> The following is an E-mail that I sent to kolb the
> other day. Just checking
> to see if anyone else ran into these things
>
> O.k. I finally got started on kit one read the
> instructions made a work area
> and resigned my car to the parking lot for the next
> few years. Now I have a
> problem.
>
> This is for a Mark III XTRA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Know what you mean, went through the same thing myself. (Rotax 532,
lighting coil runs the tach) Here's what the problem was: the tach got
erratic because it wanted the leads switched. During the winter, the MKIII
gets a through annual, and a lot of stuff got unhooked/reconnected. In the
spring the tach was intermittently erratic. Put on a friend's tach, it
worked OK, sent my tach in for overhaul. Came back, still erratic.On and
on, yadda yadda.
Replaced the regulator/rectifier with an upgraded unit. No improvement.
Swapped leads on the back of the tach. No good. Turned out that I needed to
swap the AC leads going into the regulator/rectifier from the engine, and
then it was happy. I don't know why.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6
>and back to 5.
>The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and
>checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in
>the engine? Any suggestions.
>
>Vic
>
>
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
This is gonna be interesting ! ! ! Today, I opened up the box
containing the new parts for my broken re-drive. In my phone
conversation with the mfr., I requested the biggest input shaft
possible, and he said 3/4" was the limit. I grumbled some about that,
and felt a little spooky. Looked at the new input a while ago, and
thought.............man, that's husky ! ! ! So measured it, and it's a
full 1" diameter. (O.D.) Now, I feel better, and maybe this weekend
will have time to start putting it together. Wish me luck. If it was
just a case of insufficient strength, we should be in business. If the
problem was harmonics................we'll see.
Optimistic Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Retarded Ignitions |
Richard Pike & All,
My converted SeaDoo uses the Nipendenso ignition with the advance curve
built in. It is my understanding that the aircraft Rotax is one of the few
2-stroke engines that doesn't use this method.
...Richard Swidereski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Kolb-List: Retarded Ignitions
>
> That would be Airscrew Performance, I have one of their units on my 532.
It
> is kinda expensive, but it works perfectly. It does retard the spark, but
> not until the idle drops below 1,600, so mostly you don't ever use it. In
> practice, you keep backing the idle speed screws out, and it gets rougher
> below 2,000 until it gets to 1,400, and then the ignition retards and it
> suddenly drops down to about 900 and gets real smooth. But it's really too
> slow an idle. At that low speed, it does tend to stall sometimes, and just
> plain sounds un-appropriate. So I keep the idle at 2,000-2,200, and don't
> use the retard function at normal idle.
> On the other hand, when starting, it never gets into that horrible gearbox
> rattle that it used to do when it had points. It starts with a very slow
> smooth idle, and then comes smoothly up to a normal idle speed. That has
to
> save some wear and tear, that rattle sounds hard on the crank.
> You are right about parts being available somewhere. (but where?) I got
the
> Central Snowmobile Supply catalog and tried to cross reference the parts I
> got from Airscrew Performance with what they had in there, but nothing
> correlated. Maybe some of our listers in the Great White North could come
> up with some commonly known interchangable Rotax/SkiDoo/Bombardier
ignition
> parts (points/CDI) that us Southerners have no clue on?
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>
> >
> >Bob and all,
> >
> >I read some where, maybe this list, that there is a guy that puts in a
> >different CDI (Nepondeso?) that has spark retard/advance that makes the
503
> >idle very smoothly....I can't see any reason (except for time/$) that all
> >the Rotax 2 strokes can't have a modern computer controlled ignition
system
> >with spark advance
> >Geoff Thistlethwaite
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Larry Bourne
Subject: Bill's Pics
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.03.13.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
You don't say what kind of engine you have?
What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati if
a Rotax?
Does the engine have one or two lighting coils?
Where do you have your tach connected?
What kind of voltage regulator do you have?
I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by parties.
Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a
shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil on
and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the
time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your
tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as
engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the regulator
starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its
output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single
the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would
momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you describe.
jerryb
>
>My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6
>and back to 5.
>The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and
>checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in
>the engine? Any suggestions.
>
>Vic
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Erratic RPM & Shunt Regulator Load Issues |
Would there be any interest in a voltage regulator that could handle up to
10 amps and not load engine down when electrical power load is not required
like the shunt regular does?
The way the shunt regulator works, like a KeyWest, is it shorts the
lighting coil thus loads the engine even if there is lower electrical power
demand. This is wasted horse power.
Presently there is a 3 Amp output regular on the market but I find I need
more output to drive my strobes, radio, GPS, and anti collision recognition
lights.
I've been considering designing one and putting it on the market, for about
the same price as the KeyWest ~$60. Is there any interest?
It could possibly include a tach output useful for engines lacking a tach
output - this may be standard or an option. Any interest.
Last is a "light weight" wrench for the big nut on IVO prop to carry along
in your emergency repair tool bag. I would expect it would sell between
$10-$20, depending upon material it is manufactured from. Any interest here?
Please reply to me direct at mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net
Thanks,
Jerry
>
>My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6
>and back to 5.
>The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and
>checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in
>the engine? Any suggestions.
>
>Vic
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Headsets & Intercom sale |
For sale: Flightcom IIMX intercom. Excellent condition, still has the nylon
carry bag, all the paperwork and accessories. Two Flightcom 4DX headsets.
upgraded with silicon gel ear seals and Headsets, Inc Mike muffs. Value new
about $370. Sell for all for$225. Contact me off list.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard(at)bcchapel.org
423-323-9441
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Darrell Bailey" <dbailey5033(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | UltraStar Brakes |
I was wondering if anybody has installed brakes on an Ultrastar. If so, how
did you design them? I am having trouble turning my plane and was thinking
how much easier it would be if I had brakes that worked independently with
each other. If you guys have any ideas, please let me know.
Thanks, DB in Bayou Country(about 70 miles south of Wild Bill)
PS. There may be a certain technique for turning taildraggers that I am not
aware of. If this is the case, maybe share the technique.
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: control stick |
> BUT... Do you really want to have
>these functions on your control stick?
Hey it looks cool. I have thought a great deal about accidently hitting
the switches. I have decided the trigger button is only good to make the
sound effects but the kill switch is a recessed slide switch that will take
a concentrated effort to activate. The starter button is on top and may not
be normally interfered with. I have another push switch on top that I will
use for a push to talk button. This will not be easy to accidentally
activate in case of emergency. I think It will be safe to operate. As I
said before if nothing else I can just wire in a sound effects generator
and play with it on the ground.
> From personal experience I have
>found that switches on a control stick can be accidently pressed when
>you get busy. On at least one occasion I screwed up something in flight
>and inadvertently pressed the push to talk and said #%$#%#%#..... I
>didn't respond to the tower. If I was hit by a wind gust on landing and
>gripped the kill switch at the wrong time or the starter on a short
>strip takoff things could go badly.
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
> >>> rrcarl(at)concentric.net 03/13/02 08:43AM >>>
>
>
>I'm not really sure. I think more than 500ma. I would put a lighter
>relay
>in between the switch and the starter relay.
>
>
> > From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:32:30 -0500
> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: control stick
> >
> >
> >
> > How much does a starter solenoid draw?
> >
> >
> >> Woody...
> >>
> >> Those switches will handle about 500ma continuous.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
Hey Lar
They got the captions mixed up on your last 2 photos
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: control stick |
>
>
>> BUT... Do you really want to have
>>these functions on your control stick?
>
>
> Hey it looks cool.
Bill Woods has (I think) 5 or 6 buttons on top of his control stick.
Think they control the EIS system -3 buttons, push to talk -1,
and radio freq 1 or 2?
Looks cool and I guess they really work - right Bill?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Coggins, Josh, NPONS" <joshcoggins(at)att.com> |
I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The tach works
great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the tach display
sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I am using the Key
West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my Rotax 618. The tach is
hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would assume that changing
to a different type of regulator would solve this problem? Can you recommend
a regulator to use?
Josh
-----Original Message-----
From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM erratic
You don't say what kind of engine you have?
What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati if
a Rotax?
Does the engine have one or two lighting coils?
Where do you have your tach connected?
What kind of voltage regulator do you have?
I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by parties.
Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a
shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil on
and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the
time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your
tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as
engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the regulator
starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its
output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single
the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would
momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you describe.
jerryb
>
>My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6
>and back to 5.
>The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and
>checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in
>the engine? Any suggestions.
>
>Vic
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
but on climbout at 6700rpm
The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine.
I would assume that changing to a different type of
regulator would solve this problem? Can you recommend a
regulator to use?
> Josh
Josh/Gents:
By golly you got her wound up tight on climbout. What does
she turn straight and level WOT? Is the redline on the 618
same same the other Rotax two strokes at 6800?
The grey tach wire is sending pulses and I don't believe
your regulator/rectifier has any affect on your tach
performance. The guys that are having tach problems are
using tachs that hook up to the two AC wires from the
alternator.
I have found that propping my airplanes, whether two or four
stroke, to turn the red line or a hair above at WOT straight
and level flight proves to give me the best climb and cruise
with a ground adjustable or fixed pitch prop.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/14/02 11:04:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
joshcoggins(at)att.com writes:
> I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The
> tach works great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the
> tach display sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I
> am using the Key West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my Rotax
> 618. The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would
> assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this
> problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use?
>
Josh, if your EIS has two plugs on the back, then you need to put a 10K ohm
resistor [1/2 watt] in series with the gray wire. I installed mine right at
the end of the gray wire near the engine. Good luck.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: control stick |
Hey, Woody--
Here's my story abt hitting the wrong switch. Got a call one Sat early
to help out a friend taking a Merlin II IFR. Altho it's rated for single
pilot, it's a lot of work IFR. So we're moving OK getting stabilized on
approach to Elmira, autoP working good, making like flying down a string
when twr calls, saying braking action poor to nil. That didn't bother us
cause the plane has beta props. So I jab what I thot was the PTT, but it
was the autoP disconnect. The pilot wasn't ready to grab the yoke, but
finally salvaged the landing. Gave me a very sour look. So much for
standardization of switch positions.
Bob N.
pee ess why not wire some of the sws to flashing lites on the panel?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Re: [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
Whoops! Fixed. -Matt Dralle
At 07:16 PM 3/14/2002 Thursday, you wrote:
>
>
> Hey Lar
>
> They got the captions mixed up on your last 2 photos
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Reese" <nhwood(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Full Lotus Monofloat |
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
text/html
--- StripMime Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting
---
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeffrey Jones" <jeffrey.jones(at)interactivetechnologies.com> |
Darrell,
My Ultra Star does not have brakes......and after doing research I decided
that spending $350-400 for a good setup that I could fly off the grass
strips fine without them. My Ultra Star turns best to the left and within
40'....going right though is a bit more. I always taxi using left turns to
my advantage. The technique that works for me is holding full down to
lighten the tail and use rudder and power combined. However, always be
thinking of the winds too. This is has worked for me and others out there
will have a different experience.
Jeff Jones
Burlington KY
-From: "Darrell Bailey" <dbailey5033(at)hotmail.com>
-Subject: Kolb-List: UltraStar Brakes
-I was wondering if anybody has installed brakes on an Ultrastar. If so,
how
-did you design them? I am having trouble turning my plane and was thinking
-how much easier it would be if I had brakes that worked independently with
-each other. If you guys have any ideas, please let me know.
-Thanks, DB in Bayou Country(about 70 miles south of Wild Bill)
-PS. There may be a certain technique for turning taildraggers that I am
not
-aware of. If this is the case, maybe share the technique.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
Mr. Pike,
I remembered a picture of your landing light that you stuck in your wing and
was wondering if you had to brace the false ribs so the fabric didn't pull
the apart. I like the idea and am considering it but was thinking the
fabric tauting would bow those 5/16 false ribs something fierce. I might be
all wet though. On the up side to it, it gives another good place to get up
in the wing for inspections.
How far out in front of the plane does it shine? Seems like it would be
limited by the leading edge tube.
Jeremy "Finally building again on the Kolb" Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
P.S. for those who haven't seen this little trick, look here...
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg9.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
03/15/2002 09:37:08 AM
The Keywest is not a shunt-type regulator. The Rotax stock unit is, and is
covered with heavy aluminum fins to dissipate the heat generated by
shunting the current when demands are low. Better check again, when I
bought the Keywest, I did so based on the non-shunt solid-state regulation,
cleaner power, from the advertising. It is 6 years old , maybe they have
changed but back then they were not shunts. $60 is what I paid. I fused
the input to the Keywest reg, then fused the output to each device, and
paralleled-in a monster capacitor for noise absorption. There is no
battery, very light electrical load on this aircraft, mostly electronics.
Power is clean and noise-free, tach works perfectly.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
I will reply off list with some .jpg pictures. If anyone one else cares and
wants pictures, mail me off list and I'll reply off list.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Mr. Pike,
>
>I remembered a picture of your landing light that you stuck in your wing and
>was wondering if you had to brace the false ribs so the fabric didn't pull
>the apart. I like the idea and am considering it but was thinking the
>fabric tauting would bow those 5/16 false ribs something fierce. I might be
>all wet though. On the up side to it, it gives another good place to get up
>in the wing for inspections.
>
>How far out in front of the plane does it shine? Seems like it would be
>limited by the leading edge tube.
>
>Jeremy "Finally building again on the Kolb" Casey
>jrcasey(at)ldl.net
>
>P.S. for those who haven't seen this little trick, look here...
>http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg9.htm
>
>
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bill Woods" <kolbpilot(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: control stick |
Work like a champ, I've never hit the wrong button although I wouldn't put crucial
things like starter or kill switches on them.
Bill Woods
----- Original Message -----
From: Possum
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: control stick
>
>
>> BUT... Do you really want to have
>>these functions on your control stick?
>
>
> Hey it looks cool.
Bill Woods has (I think) 5 or 6 buttons on top of his control stick.
Think they control the EIS system -3 buttons, push to talk -1,
and radio freq 1 or 2?
Looks cool and I guess they really work - right Bill?
=
=
=
=
Get mor
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs |
The photos are up at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly08a.html
>
>
>Gary,
>
>I made a two wheel swivel dolly for moving my FireFly when the wings were
folded. I will take some pictures and post them to the web so you can see
how it is made. I make it out of scrap wood, wheels, handle and a new
small lazy susan bearing. It could easily be adapted to larger wheels and
a straight hitch bar for use of a riding lawn mower as a tug.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>>
>>Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might
>>ask.
>>
>>I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. This
>>means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to push
>>er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the
question.
>> I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael Laing" <bigtires2(at)attbi.com> |
can anyone with knowledge about the firestar KXP send me performance
limits such as max speed, stall speed, gross weight, etc?
thank you
michael laing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Got to fooling with that new input shaft today, getting ready to start
installing it, and noticed that it's splined into the drive sprocket, as
well as into the flywheel. The original break point was right at the
sprocket, which was one piece with the input shaft. Years ago, I had an old
'71 Saab with the 1.7L Triumph engine. It had a similar spine setup from
clutch to tranny. While on vacation, it stripped out the splines, so we
came to a screeching halt. Local welding shop welded the shaft to the drive
gear, and I took off for home...............gently. 500 miles from Weippe,
Idaho to Port Angeles, Wash., and it was fine. Next morning, I fired it up
to go downtown for coffee, got about 1/2 mile, and it snapped - right at the
weld. Point is, this new unit gives 2 flex points, and removes a potential
twist. Doubt if I'll get to it this weekend, but I feel much better about
the whole thing, and starting to get that good ol' Gogittum Feeling ! ! !
Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re-Drive
>
> This is gonna be interesting ! ! ! Today, I opened up the box
> containing the new parts for my broken re-drive. In my phone
> conversation with the mfr., I requested the biggest input shaft
> possible, and he said 3/4" was the limit. I grumbled some about that,
> and felt a little spooky. Looked at the new input a while ago, and
> thought.............man, that's husky ! ! ! So measured it, and it's a
> full 1" diameter. (O.D.) Now, I feel better, and maybe this weekend
> will have time to start putting it together. Wish me luck. If it was
> just a case of insufficient strength, we should be in business. If the
> problem was harmonics................we'll see.
> Optimistic Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
How many of you intrepid aviators are actually going to set off across the
country
and "fly" the boundless void that lies between you and "Lakeland" this year.
And where are you coming from. I have a reason for asking, so bear with
me, please.
And no Larry - Delta don't count.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
> I am having trouble turning my plane and was thinking
>
>-how much easier it would be if I had brakes that worked independently with
>-each other.
Before spending time and money on brakes try stronger springs on the
tailwheel. The drag on the ground may be overcoming the ability of the
tailwheel to turn with the rudder. I have seen a Flintstone brake utilizing
a lever arm with a piece of rubber on the end that could be pressed against
a tire to assist in turning one way.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net> |
Subject: | Re: UltraStar Brakes |
Hi Darrel
I have a ultrastar with brakes on it I only have one wheel hooked up and
only use it to turn around on at the end of the run way. they are internal
expanding shoes the use them on cheap non racing go-carts I welded the
drums on to the rims you can also use the band that go's around the drum
like the old emergence brakes on cars
Randy flying the soobydoo in NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darrell Bailey" <dbailey5033(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: UltraStar Brakes
>
> I was wondering if anybody has installed brakes on an Ultrastar. If so,
how
> did you design them? I am having trouble turning my plane and was
thinking
> how much easier it would be if I had brakes that worked independently with
> each other. If you guys have any ideas, please let me know.
>
> Thanks, DB in Bayou Country(about 70 miles south of Wild Bill)
>
> PS. There may be a certain technique for turning taildraggers that I am
not
> aware of. If this is the case, maybe share the technique.
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Ed Steuber ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ed Steuber
Subject: Summer 2001
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/slyck@frontiernet.net.03.15.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Hey Bill we/me/us are planning on renting this place again from
Tuesday April 9 - Sat April 13 if it works out.
Do you want to stop by after the show-
and stay for a day or three?? Got room,
more fun than the show, and you can park your plane at the 3,800 private
airstrip and walk to the house and just hang aroud if you want.
Last time, there was nobody using the airstrip but us. You'd get to go see
the
"lighthouse" like on the video and other neat stuff!
http://www.collinsvacationrentals.com/propprint.php?propcode=SKY097
http://pendejones.home.mindspring.com/StGeorge/Pix.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Craig S" <Snaproll.er(at)GTE.NET> |
Subject: | FW: Problem with tubes |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James, Ken
Subject: Kolb-List: FW: Problem with tubes
Ken:
I had a similar problem with the H-Stab. Well almost, TNK sent the correct
quantity of tubing to me for the old (Original) Xtra H-Stab. After building
both stabs and having the same trouble with the infamous "D" bracket (7/8",
3/4" note), TNK informed me that they sent the wrong drawings for the
H-stab, that the stab has changed back to the M-III design to save weight.
Notice your kit is now labeled Mark III Xtra "Lite". At least my kit two
was. I don't remembering ordering a "Lite" version of the Xtra but it is
what I got, sort of. When I ordered this Kit, was hoping (expecting) it
would be completely engineered with complete, accurate drawings. I so want
to be SPOON FEED. (That's why I went with a kit and not scratch built).
Have found many discrepancies in the drawings, but to the credit of TNK they
have been an excellent company to work with. They realize some of the short
comings with the drawings and have made efforts to correct. It's all very
frustrating, but I sure we will get through it.... eventually.
Anyway, back to your problem. If you haven't already talked to Linda at
TNK, Give her a call. She will straighten everything out. TNK sent me a
kit to build new (old design) H-Stabs. I'm sure they will ship whatever it
takes to make it right.
Craig Saunders
Xtra 3Q 2001-25
Kit 1 & 2 ~10%
Tampa, FL
Snaproll.er(at)gte.net
The following is an E-mail that I sent to kolb the other day. Just checking
to see if anyone else ran into these things
O.k. I finally got started on kit one read the instructions made a work area
and resigned my car to the parking lot for the next few years. Now I have a
problem.
This is for a Mark III XTRA
First: on page two Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator the page shows three
tubes being cut out of 1" OD .058 Alum tube 31.25", 54" and 49" long total
134.25" multiple by two for the other side and we have a total of 22'-4 -
1/2" . I received one tube for 12' and one tube marked 4'. My packing sheet
dated 12-20-01 by J.B. has the 54 FT crossed out and 16 FT hand written in.
I have cut the 12 FT tube to make one side but I do not have enough material
to make both sides.
Anyone else have this problem?
Second concern: the note "Bracket "D" (typ) attached with 1/8 x 1/8 rivets
to 7/8" & 3/4" tube with 2 rivets in each tube" My question is what 7/8 and
3/4 tube is the note talking about since the tube that is located next to
the note is 1" x.035. Please advise what to do.
Third: the 5/16 od x .035" alum diagonal braces running to the vertical tube
1" od x 058" how many and what size rivets attach these tubes to brace "D"
and made up brace on leading edge?
Finally the 3/36 hole that is drilled is unclear on my print. Is the hole
drilled TDC on the 1" od .058 tube?
I will be sending the unpainted steel parts back as discuss 1/31/02 on
Monday. I never did get that call about the main tail boom. So I have a
suggestion I will be going to Oshkosh I can bring the tube with be and we
can swap for a power coated tube.
Ken James
www.geocities.com/kjamesdesign/ <http://www.geocities.com/kjamesdesign/>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
>
>The Keywest is not a shunt-type regulator. The Rotax stock unit is, and is
>covered with heavy aluminum fins to dissipate the heat generated by
>shunting the current when demands are low. Better check again, when I
>bought the Keywest, I did so based on the non-shunt solid-state regulation,
>cleaner power, from the advertising. It is 6 years old , maybe they have
>changed but back then they were not shunts. $60 is what I paid. I fused
>the input to the Keywest reg, then fused the output to each device, and
>paralleled-in a monster capacitor for noise absorption. There is no
>battery, very light electrical load on this aircraft, mostly electronics.
>Power is clean and noise-free, tach works perfectly.
>
>Jim Gerken
The following was posted by Ken Kennedy on the Fly-UL list 08-May-2000.
"Using the tach lead on Rotax engines is not recommended when using a Rotax
regulator/rectifier, as it will often result in erratic tachometer
readings."
"Note: With the newer model Rotax regulator/regulators, only one of the two
lighting coil leads will provide a good tach signal. If your tach reading
goes to zero as you advance engine RPM, use the other lighting coil lead."
"PER ARDUA AD ASTRA"
Jim, my post is based upon information I'm positive I got from the source,
the manufacturer. Their a division of the company that produces the Titan
aircraft. I had spoken to them about the output voltage which seemed to be
running a little on the high side at the time on some regulars a few of us
had gotten. I know we discussed a resistor and a zener diode which
establishes the output voltage and I'm certain he confirmed they were using
it to control a SCR which functioned as a shunt. I could and very well may
be wrong, I'll try to reconfirm this information. I'm not saying their
design is bad, it works. I'm just considering on trying to improve upon
things. I done some search of other post and have found some other post on
the Hawk list which also state it being a shunt type regulator. Hey, it's
simple, it works, and would think it would put a fairly constant load on
the engine all the time, even on take off.
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
>
>My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6
>and back to 5.
>The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and
>checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in
>the engine? Any suggestions.
>
>Vic
The following was posted by Ken Kennedy on the Fly-UL list 08-May-2000.
"Using the tach lead on Rotax engines is not recommended when using a Rotax
regulator/rectifier, as it will often result in erratic tachometer
readings."
"Note: With the newer model Rotax regulator/regulators, only one of the two
lighting coil leads will provide a good tach signal. If your tach reading
goes to zero as you advance engine RPM, use the other lighting coil lead."
"PER ARDUA AD ASTRA"
Use at your own risk.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Josh, Before you run out and buy another regulator, read recent post by me
under this thread topic.
If you have a EIS, how old is it. Does it have one or two connectors on
the back. If it has two, you need to insert in series a 10K ohm 1/2 watt
resistor between the gray wire and the EIS Tach input. Easiest is at the
junction of the gray wire near the engine. This should allow you to use
the gray wire for your tach signal. Note, if you have recent model EIS
with the single connector, the resistor is already installed in the
EIS. Follow Grand Rapids Technologies installation instruction for the
tach connection if you have a EIS.
You may need to reverse the 2 lighting coil wires from the engine going to
the AC input terminals of your voltage regulator. (Note you can do the
easiest at the regulator AC input terminals.) I posted a note about this
in response to a question about KeyWest regulators. For some reason it
seems the Tach signal is possibly being influenced by what occurs in the
voltage regulator. The yellow leads are AC voltage and should not be
polarity sensitive between the AC input terminals on the voltage regulator.
Since I haven't had a meter or scope on the lighting coils and the tach
signals, I would guess that there is some floating ground reference formed
within the regulator that it shows up on one of the yellow wires making one
appear as having a signal and other having a weak signal or an appearance
like ground if the tach were connected to it. It may also influence the
signal appearing on the gray tach wire.
FYI: A handy little device is a Tiny Tach, cost about $29-$36. It has a
long lead which you wrap the last few inches around a plug wire and it
provides a digital readout of the RPM based upon spark. You need the model
for the two stroke Rotax. See there web site. (Added below after
forwarding you other messages.)
Manufacturer of Tiny Tach is Design Technology - 1-630-920-1300
http://www.tinytach.com/
Hope this all helps,
jerryb
>
>I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The
>tach works great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the
>tach display sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I
>am using the Key West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my Rotax
>618. The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would
>assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this
>problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use?
>Josh
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net]
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM erratic
>
>
>You don't say what kind of engine you have?
>What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati if
>a Rotax?
>Does the engine have one or two lighting coils?
>Where do you have your tach connected?
>What kind of voltage regulator do you have?
>
>I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by parties.
>Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a
>shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil on
>and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the
>time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your
>tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as
>engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the regulator
>starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its
>output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single
>the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would
>momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you describe.
>jerryb
>
> >
> >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6
> >and back to 5.
> >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and
> >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in
> >the engine? Any suggestions.
> >
> >Vic
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ronnie Wren" <rsweld(at)pgtv.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-For Sale |
I have a Kolb Mark 111 for sale on Barnstormers. With trailer, BRS-VLS
and lots of goodies.
R Wren
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 03/15/02 |
In a message dated 3/16/02 2:52:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
>
>
Hello Possum. I guess I be one of those intrepid aviators. Upstate NY to
Sun & Fun. See ya all there. To others flying, have a safe and enjoyable
flight.
Bob Griffin
MK 3 618
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Donald Reese" <nhwood(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Full Lotus Monofloat 4 sale part II |
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A message with no text/plain section was received.
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resend the email using plaintext formatting
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________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
I had the same regulator as Jim & still had erratic tach readings unless
I loaded the circuit.
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: KeyWest reg
>
> The Keywest is not a shunt-type regulator. The Rotax stock unit is, and
is
> covered with heavy aluminum fins to dissipate the heat generated by
> shunting the current when demands are low. Better check again, when I
> bought the Keywest, I did so based on the non-shunt solid-state
regulation,
> cleaner power, from the advertising. It is 6 years old , maybe they have
> changed but back then they were not shunts. $60 is what I paid. I fused
> the input to the Keywest reg, then fused the output to each device, and
> paralleled-in a monster capacitor for noise absorption. There is no
> battery, very light electrical load on this aircraft, mostly electronics.
> Power is clean and noise-free, tach works perfectly.
>
> Jim Gerken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Kolbers:
I've had a some erratic RPM in my 582 as well, though my situation
appears to be a little different from what has been reported here. I see it
on the mag check. I use 4500 rpm to do my mag check. I'll see the usual
50--75 rpm drop on one side, but when I try the other side I'll get a 250 rpm
drop shown on the tach, but I can feel in the seat of my pants that the rpm
drop is the same as the other side. The problem is sporatic and not always
reproducable.
I called Kerry Yunk at Lockwood and he indicates that it has to do
with the windings in the lighting coils. He said Rotax has altered the
design of the lighting coils and the fix is a total replacement with a new
style Rotax assembly at a cost of about $350.00. He recommended that I not
bother with the fix. He said that it absolutely was not a safety of flight
item and l that I just follow my feelings when it comes to an acceptable mag
drop.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III, N496BM
http://hometown.aol.com/cavuontop/n496bm.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gdledbetter(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/15/02 11:52:51 PM, possums(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< http://pendejones.home.mindspring.com/StGeorge/Pix.html >>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gdledbetter(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/15/02 11:52:51 PM, possums(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< http://pendejones.home.mindspring.com/StGeorge/Pix.html >>
Bill,
You should really accept Possum's hospitality. I just spend a month on st.
Geo. Island and flew my Firefly out of the Apalachicola airport. The FPO
there is very friendly and sells a lot of fuel since they seem to be at the
right place for folks flying east and west.
flying the beaches of the islands can't be beat.
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati
Firefly with 80 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
I am now working on the installation of the web seats in my Mk3 Classic.
The webs sent to me by New Kolb appear to be about 6" too long. They also have
a velcro strip sewn into the edge of the end that goes over the front of the seat.
They are closed today so I would appreciate any input offered from the list.
Thanks in advance,
Duane the plane Tallahassee, FL Flying my FireFly and building Mk3 912
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Mark3 web seats |
Same here. I had to replace my seats, as the stitching along the top had
begun to sun rot, and the new ones are different. Had planned to just lap
the extra over the front tube and ignore it. But first plan to take them to
an upholstery shop and put a few extra runs of thread across the top. The
one pass that it came with is not enough. Thread's cheap.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>I am now working on the installation of the web seats in my Mk3 Classic.
>The webs sent to me by New Kolb appear to be about 6" too long. They also> have
a velcro strip sewn into the edge of the end that goes over the fro>nt of the
seat. They are closed today so I would appreciate any input off>ered from the
list.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Duane the plane Tallahassee, FL Flying my FireFly and building Mk3 912
>
>
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <wecounselman3(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Sun-N-Fun:RE John's Adventure |
> john h (sorry I got carried away)
Don't be sorry John. Great story. From your adventure
you must be a mighty pilot and navigator as well as
builder. Thanks!
=====
http://sports.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Don't know how many I have flown to, but the first
> one was 1989.
Gang:
I lied. The first S&F I flew to was 1988.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeffrey Jones" <jeffandbecky(at)fuse.net> |
Subject: | Gas Tank For Sale |
I have a gas tank for sale. Approximately 3 1/2 gal in size and believe
originally for an Ultra Star. I purchased it with some plans and do not
need the tank. $25 for the tank and $10 for shipping. Will return balance
of shipping cost.
Jeff Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Hello John--
About six months ago there was a long thread on ways of keeping rodents
off flying machines. I suggested putting tailwheel on a block sitting in
a pan of Clorox. Another lister said it would "eat" aluminum since it
was hydrochloric acid. I replied it was hypochlorous acid, and that it
wouldn't do much to Al. I've kept plain old Clorox in thin leftover
chicken potpie dish, along with several strips of 0.025, thinest sheets
I have plus pieces of another pie pan. Six moths later my Craftsman
mike can't read any difference---meaning either chicken pie pans are
really tough, or that the Clorox is too weak.
Your thickness may vary.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Six moths later my Craftsman
> mike can't read any difference---meaning either chicken pie pans are
> really tough, or that the Clorox is too weak.
>
> Your thickness may vary.
>
> Bob N.
Bob N/Gents:
Way to go.
I would have never believed it it you had not conducted the
test.
Will keep the process in mind if and when I have to build a
moat around the tailwheel and main gear of Miss P'fer to
keep those rats at bay.
Beautiful day here in the Heart of Dixie. Should be flying,
but got work to do. :-(
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael Laing" <bigtires2(at)attbi.com> |
thanks for the help guys.
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Avemco Insurance |
Avemco sent me a request to quote on the insurance on my FireStar. I sent
them all the information the asked for and today I received the quote from
them which seemed to be in line as to premium. However there was a
statement on the quote the said and I quote "Due to underwriting changes
this quote will become null and void on April 6, 2002. We will not be
writing any new insurance policies for this type of aircraft on or after
the
above written date". I don't know what "this type of aircraft" means.
Anyone know what is going on?=0D
=0D
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance |
Why not ask Avemco what they mean?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Avemco sent me a request to quote on the insurance on my FireStar. I sen>t
>them all the information the asked for and today I received the quote fro>m
>them which seemed to be in line as to premium. However there was a
>statement on the quote the said and I quote "Due to underwriting changes
>this quote will become null and void on April 6, 2002. We will not be
>writing any new insurance policies for this type of aircraft on or after
>the
>above written date". I don't know what "this type of aircraft" means.
>Anyone know what is going on?=0D
>=0D
>Ron Payne
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance |
It is Saturday and I don't know if their office is open. I just wanted to
know if anyone else knows what Avemco is doing. I think I am going to quite
posting on this list. I was sincere with my question just as I have been
with other questions. I am tired of these sarcastic responces.=0D
=0D
Ron Payne=0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
Date: Saturday, March 16, 2002 15:38:33=0D
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Avemco Insurance=0D
=0D
=0D
Why not ask Avemco what they mean?=0D
=0D
Jack B. Hart FF004=0D
Jackson, MO=0D
=0D
>=0D
>Avemco sent me a request to quote on the insurance on my FireStar. I sen=0D
>t=0D
>them all the information the asked for and today I received the quote fro=0D
>m=0D
>them which seemed to be in line as to premium. However there was a=0D
>statement on the quote the said and I quote "Due to underwriting changes=0D
>this quote will become null and void on April 6, 2002. We will not be=0D
>writing any new insurance policies for this type of aircraft on or after=0D
>the=0D
>above written date". I don't know what "this type of aircraft" means.=0D
>Anyone know what is going on?0D=0D
>0D=0D
>Ron Payne=0D
>=0D
=0D
=0D
Jack & Louise Hart=0D
jbhart(at)ldd.net=0D
=0D
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=2E
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance |
Disregard the last post by me. I guess it just pushed my button. I not
only wanted to know if anyone has any idea what this Avemco was thinking but
also let members of this list know what Avemco is doing. I still stand by
my comment of some sarcastic responces on this list but this was not one of
them. My appolgies to Jack Hart.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, March 16, 2002 15:47:11
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Avemco Insurance
It is Saturday and I don't know if their office is open. I just wanted to
know if anyone else knows what Avemco is doing. I think I am going to quite
posting on this list. I was sincere with my question just as I have been
with other questions. I am tired of these sarcastic responces.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, March 16, 2002 15:38:33
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Avemco Insurance
net>
Why not ask Avemco what they mean?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
net>
>
>Avemco sent me a request to quote on the insurance on my FireStar. I sen
>t
>them all the information the asked for and today I received the quote fro
>m
>them which seemed to be in line as to premium. However there was a
>statement on the quote the said and I quote "Due to underwriting changes
>this quote will become null and void on April 6, 2002. We will not be
>writing any new insurance policies for this type of aircraft on or after
>the
>above written date". I don't know what "this type of aircraft" means.
>Anyone know what is going on?0D
>0D
>Ron Payne
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
.
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance |
Well, heck--I haven't even got that much of a reply from AVEMCO! So much
for Brand Loyalty. I've had A/C ins with(?) them since abt '65 or
so--and absolutely claim free. I'd buy from anyone else, but so far have
struck out, And I HAVE tried calling them, but they only want to ans. if
you have a claim.
Bob N. also disgusted---and ins is mandatory in VA.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance |
> Why not ask Avemco what they mean?
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
Jack/Gang:
Good idea. :-)
I also must call them on or before 22 Mar to cancel my hull
coverage for next year. Been carrying $30,000.00 up til
now, but for what they want to cover it, I will have to
gamble on not having an accident or lose my airplane by an
act of God or rats.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael Sharp" <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Mark III Classic Rear enclosure |
Gents,
Am in the process of completing my punch list etc. Does anyone have any
photo's of the proper installation of the clear "plastic" rear enclosure??
it seems to rap around to the bows just rear of the door frame. any help???
Mike
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Anti-freeze, the old green stuff, not the orange stuff, will do the trick,
just keep the cats and dogs away from it, they will just lap it down.
jerryb
>
>Hello John--
>
>About six months ago there was a long thread on ways of keeping rodents
>off flying machines. I suggested putting tailwheel on a block sitting in
>a pan of Clorox. Another lister said it would "eat" aluminum since it
>was hydrochloric acid. I replied it was hypochlorous acid, and that it
>wouldn't do much to Al. I've kept plain old Clorox in thin leftover
>chicken potpie dish, along with several strips of 0.025, thinest sheets
>I have plus pieces of another pie pan. Six moths later my Craftsman
>mike can't read any difference---meaning either chicken pie pans are
>really tough, or that the Clorox is too weak.
>
>Your thickness may vary.
>
>Bob N.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/16/02 12:37:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes:
> Yunk sounds like a real professional maintenance/aviator type. Hope you did
> not take him serious. You may follow your feelings until it "hurts". Why
> have a mag check if one can only check one side with the tach?
>
John:
Yunck is Lockwood's top mechanic. They are Rotax factory authorized
to do warranty work, and he has trained at the factory in Austria. Do I take
him seriously? You bet I do.
In an ideal world with a bottomless check book I would want a perfect
mag check every time I got in my Kolb, and I would whup my chief of
maintenance upside the head with my gold walking stick if it wasn't just
right. My problem is 1) I don't have that kind of money, and 2) that the
problem is flakey and not easily reproducible. In the last 10 mag checks I
have done I have had this funny problem of an obviously incorrect tach
indication, but otherwise normal mag drop, maybe twice.
You are right that there is no point in doing a mag check if you are
only going to check one side. But I always check both sides no matter what,
and even when my flaky problem occurs I can still get a pretty good intuitive
feel for the actual amount of the mag drop because I just checked the other
side and it was normal. Do I know the exact amount of the drop? No, of
course not. But I can tell that that it is more or less in the same range as
the other side that I just tested. If they felt radically different I would
reject the flight, and I have done that in other aircraft.
Yunck reports that this occasional flakiness in Rotax tach indications
is a result of something in the windings and that Rotax has slightly modified
their current production to address the problem, but that it has no impact
whatsoever on the rest of the ignition system. When a guy who stands to make
some money selling me the new parts ($350.00) and doing the installation
(shop rate is $45.00 per hour) tells me not to bother with it, I take notice.
I also factor into the equation that I have a 6 year old motorcycle
battery in my mark 3 which is now pretty nearly dead. I've ordered a new red
top ultrabat and I'm going to install that and see what happens. While I
agree with you that occasional odd behavior from my tach is not perfect, I'm
willing to tolerate it for the moment as long as it doesn't get any worse.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III, N496BM
http://hometown.aol.com/cavuontop/n496bm.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Coggins, Josh, NPONS" <joshcoggins(at)att.com> |
Jerry,
I have the older EIS with the two serial type connections. I already
have the 10K resistor installed in-line with the grey tach lead, so that shouldn't
be my problem. But I could try switching the two AC input wires that hook
up to the Key West regulator as you described. This problem doesn't really
bother me too much since my engine runs great and the problem only shows up at
full throttle, which I don't spend much time there anyway. Thanks for the help!
Josh
-----Original Message-----
From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net]
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RPM erratic
Josh, Before you run out and buy another regulator, read recent post by me
under this thread topic.
If you have a EIS, how old is it. Does it have one or two connectors on
the back. If it has two, you need to insert in series a 10K ohm 1/2 watt
resistor between the gray wire and the EIS Tach input. Easiest is at the
junction of the gray wire near the engine. This should allow you to use
the gray wire for your tach signal. Note, if you have recent model EIS
with the single connector, the resistor is already installed in the
EIS. Follow Grand Rapids Technologies installation instruction for the
tach connection if you have a EIS.
You may need to reverse the 2 lighting coil wires from the engine going to
the AC input terminals of your voltage regulator. (Note you can do the
easiest at the regulator AC input terminals.) I posted a note about this
in response to a question about KeyWest regulators. For some reason it
seems the Tach signal is possibly being influenced by what occurs in the
voltage regulator. The yellow leads are AC voltage and should not be
polarity sensitive between the AC input terminals on the voltage regulator.
Since I haven't had a meter or scope on the lighting coils and the tach
signals, I would guess that there is some floating ground reference formed
within the regulator that it shows up on one of the yellow wires making one
appear as having a signal and other having a weak signal or an appearance
like ground if the tach were connected to it. It may also influence the
signal appearing on the gray tach wire.
FYI: A handy little device is a Tiny Tach, cost about $29-$36. It has a
long lead which you wrap the last few inches around a plug wire and it
provides a digital readout of the RPM based upon spark. You need the model
for the two stroke Rotax. See there web site. (Added below after
forwarding you other messages.)
Manufacturer of Tiny Tach is Design Technology - 1-630-920-1300
http://www.tinytach.com/
Hope this all helps,
jerryb
>
>I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The
>tach works great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the
>tach display sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I
>am using the Key West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my Rotax
>618. The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would
>assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this
>problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use?
>Josh
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net]
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM erratic
>
>
>You don't say what kind of engine you have?
>What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati if
>a Rotax?
>Does the engine have one or two lighting coils?
>Where do you have your tach connected?
>What kind of voltage regulator do you have?
>
>I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by parties.
>Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a
>shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil on
>and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the
>time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your
>tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as
>engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the regulator
>starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its
>output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single
>the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would
>momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you describe.
>jerryb
>
> >
> >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6
> >and back to 5.
> >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and
> >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in
> >the engine? Any suggestions.
> >
> >Vic
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Avemco Insurance |
John,
Was your quote for in motion coverage - you still may want to retain
coverage for taxi and while sitting, it should be much lower since most
incidents happen during the T/O or landing phase.
jerryb
>
>
> > Why not ask Avemco what they mean?
> >
> > Jack B. Hart FF004
>
>
>Jack/Gang:
>
>Good idea. :-)
>
>I also must call them on or before 22 Mar to cancel my hull
>coverage for next year. Been carrying $30,000.00 up til
>now, but for what they want to cover it, I will have to
>gamble on not having an accident or lose my airplane by an
>act of God or rats.
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
I do some more searches on this topic. I seem to recall something about it
being question in the past. I've made it a point to save some of these post.
jerryb
>
>Jerry,
> I have the older EIS with the two serial type connections. I
> already have the 10K resistor installed in-line with the grey tach lead,
> so that shouldn't be my problem. But I could try switching the two AC
> input wires that hook up to the Key West regulator as you
> described. This problem doesn't really bother me too much since my
> engine runs great and the problem only shows up at full throttle, which I
> don't spend much time there anyway. Thanks for the help!
>Josh
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net]
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RPM erratic
>
>
>Josh, Before you run out and buy another regulator, read recent post by me
>under this thread topic.
>
>If you have a EIS, how old is it. Does it have one or two connectors on
>the back. If it has two, you need to insert in series a 10K ohm 1/2 watt
>resistor between the gray wire and the EIS Tach input. Easiest is at the
>junction of the gray wire near the engine. This should allow you to use
>the gray wire for your tach signal. Note, if you have recent model EIS
>with the single connector, the resistor is already installed in the
>EIS. Follow Grand Rapids Technologies installation instruction for the
>tach connection if you have a EIS.
>
>You may need to reverse the 2 lighting coil wires from the engine going to
>the AC input terminals of your voltage regulator. (Note you can do the
>easiest at the regulator AC input terminals.) I posted a note about this
>in response to a question about KeyWest regulators. For some reason it
>seems the Tach signal is possibly being influenced by what occurs in the
>voltage regulator. The yellow leads are AC voltage and should not be
>polarity sensitive between the AC input terminals on the voltage regulator.
>Since I haven't had a meter or scope on the lighting coils and the tach
>signals, I would guess that there is some floating ground reference formed
>within the regulator that it shows up on one of the yellow wires making one
>appear as having a signal and other having a weak signal or an appearance
>like ground if the tach were connected to it. It may also influence the
>signal appearing on the gray tach wire.
>
>FYI: A handy little device is a Tiny Tach, cost about $29-$36. It has a
>long lead which you wrap the last few inches around a plug wire and it
>provides a digital readout of the RPM based upon spark. You need the model
>for the two stroke Rotax. See there web site. (Added below after
>forwarding you other messages.)
>Manufacturer of Tiny Tach is Design Technology - 1-630-920-1300
>http://www.tinytach.com/
>
>Hope this all helps,
>jerryb
>
>
>
> >
> >I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The
> >tach works great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the
> >tach display sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I
> >am using the Key West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my Rotax
> >618. The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would
> >assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this
> >problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use?
> >Josh
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net]
> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM erratic
> >
> >
> >
> >You don't say what kind of engine you have?
> >What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati if
> >a Rotax?
> >Does the engine have one or two lighting coils?
> >Where do you have your tach connected?
> >What kind of voltage regulator do you have?
> >
> >I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by parties.
> >Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a
> >shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil on
> >and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the
> >time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your
> >tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as
> >engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the regulator
> >starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its
> >output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single
> >the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would
> >momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you describe.
> >jerryb
> >
> > >
> > >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6
> > >and back to 5.
> > >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and
> > >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in
> > >the engine? Any suggestions.
> > >
> > >Vic
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Some times you have to put more than a 10 K resistor in-line, Try a 20 K
resister?
Wayne
Kolb mark 3
Rotax 582
72" Warp drive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coggins, Josh, NPONS" <joshcoggins(at)att.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RPM erratic
>
> Jerry,
> I have the older EIS with the two serial type connections. I
already have the 10K resistor installed in-line with the grey tach lead, so
that shouldn't be my problem. But I could try switching the two AC input
wires that hook up to the Key West regulator as you described. This problem
doesn't really bother me too much since my engine runs great and the problem
only shows up at full throttle, which I don't spend much time there anyway.
Thanks for the help!
> Josh
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net]
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RPM erratic
>
>
> Josh, Before you run out and buy another regulator, read recent post by
me
> under this thread topic.
>
> If you have a EIS, how old is it. Does it have one or two connectors on
> the back. If it has two, you need to insert in series a 10K ohm 1/2 watt
> resistor between the gray wire and the EIS Tach input. Easiest is at the
> junction of the gray wire near the engine. This should allow you to use
> the gray wire for your tach signal. Note, if you have recent model EIS
> with the single connector, the resistor is already installed in the
> EIS. Follow Grand Rapids Technologies installation instruction for the
> tach connection if you have a EIS.
>
> You may need to reverse the 2 lighting coil wires from the engine going to
> the AC input terminals of your voltage regulator. (Note you can do the
> easiest at the regulator AC input terminals.) I posted a note about this
> in response to a question about KeyWest regulators. For some reason it
> seems the Tach signal is possibly being influenced by what occurs in the
> voltage regulator. The yellow leads are AC voltage and should not be
> polarity sensitive between the AC input terminals on the voltage
regulator.
> Since I haven't had a meter or scope on the lighting coils and the tach
> signals, I would guess that there is some floating ground reference formed
> within the regulator that it shows up on one of the yellow wires making
one
> appear as having a signal and other having a weak signal or an appearance
> like ground if the tach were connected to it. It may also influence the
> signal appearing on the gray tach wire.
>
> FYI: A handy little device is a Tiny Tach, cost about $29-$36. It has a
> long lead which you wrap the last few inches around a plug wire and it
> provides a digital readout of the RPM based upon spark. You need the
model
> for the two stroke Rotax. See there web site. (Added below after
> forwarding you other messages.)
> Manufacturer of Tiny Tach is Design Technology - 1-630-920-1300
> http://www.tinytach.com/
>
> Hope this all helps,
> jerryb
>
>
> >
> >I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The
> >tach works great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the
> >tach display sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I
> >am using the Key West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my
Rotax
> >618. The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would
> >assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this
> >problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use?
> >Josh
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net]
> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM erratic
> >
> >
> >
> >You don't say what kind of engine you have?
> >What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati
if
> >a Rotax?
> >Does the engine have one or two lighting coils?
> >Where do you have your tach connected?
> >What kind of voltage regulator do you have?
> >
> >I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by
parties.
> >Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a
> >shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil
on
> >and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the
> >time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your
> >tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as
> >engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the
regulator
> >starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its
> >output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single
> >the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would
> >momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you
describe.
> >jerryb
> >
> > >
> > >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45
to 6
> > >and back to 5.
> > >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and
> > >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit
in
> > >the engine? Any suggestions.
> > >
> > >Vic
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lloyd O'Dell" <wander10(at)infi.net> |
Kolb owners and flyers,
I am building a Firestar II with 503 engine. i did not receive
paper work with my tachometer. It is a UMA, Dayton Va. It has three
wires coming out the back, a red, a white, and a black. I assume the
black is for ground. My question is which wire do I hook to the gray
wire on the engine and what do I hook the remaining wire to?
Lloyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patty M" <pattym(at)lushen.com> |
Subject: | Ultrastar nose job |
Hi Ed, I looked at the photo share you sent and the fit of the nose pod
looked really good. Would you give us more information about your
modifications such as the tires , nose pod, engine and gear reduction unit
and what difference the changes made in performance compared to the original
setup.
Good job, I enjoyed looking at your plane.
Phil MacGregor
Ultrastar
Marquette Mi
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
You may follow your feelings until it "hurts". Why
> > have a mag check if one can only check one side with the tach?
> >
>
> John:
>
> Yunck is Lockwood's top mechanic. They are Rotax factory authorized
> to do warranty work, and he has trained at the factory in Austria. Do I take
> him seriously? You bet I do.
> Mark R. Sellers
Mark/Gents:
My point is, if you accept less than normal for a pretake
off check, based on perceived/"gut" instinct rather than on
a reliable instrument, you may/will eventually get into
trouble. It may also increase your willingness to accept
other substandard performance/preflight/pretakeoff
indicators.
Not arguing that Yunck is not a good mechanic. I question
his displayed attitude encouraging you to fly with less than
satisfactory preflight procedures. Yes, he could sell you
what is required to make the Rotax/tach perform correctly
and make a lot of money doing so. I think he is also
defending his product with his advice "it is ok to fly with
a one sided mag check".
The pilot is the ultimate authority to make the decision to
take off, whether or not he is sure his aircraft is ready to
fly safely and reliably.
Think about this a minute or two: If you can tell by
listening/feeling that the mag check is within the green
arc, you probably do not need a tach. I know, I know, in a
short period of time we were able to fly, low time student
pilots in flight school, TH-55 and OH-13 recip helicopters
without rpm governors, keeping them in the proper rpm
setting for climb and cruise by feel and sound. But main
rotor rpm is critical on the high and low side. We also had
an acurate tach to keep us straight. If not, we red x'd the
aircraft and got another one.
My point: Accept less than the best and you may get hurt.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 03/16/02 |
From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
Hey guys, on setting your tire in a pan of bleach to keep the rodents
out: Drag racers used to burn out in bleach to make the rubber soft to
get off the line quicker. My neighbors used to buy cheap tires at the
beginning of winter when they lived in Alaska, put a bit of bleach on
them at intervals all winter long to soften the rubber for good traction
on ice. It worked, but the wear rate was teriffic. Of course, if you
always fly off grass it might not matter.
Larry the MicroMong guy
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: firestar limits |
In a message dated 3/17/02 10:09:10 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ul15rhb(at)juno.com writes:
> My Original Firestar has a Vne of 80 and that is conservative with a
> 5-rib wing (don't ask how I know this). Your 7-rib wing will be a little
> higher.
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
> 15 years flying it
>
>
I have only the KX with 5 rib wing and as I recall it was Vne at 75 also
although I have been past 80 on ocassion.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
I started mounting the wheels this weekend and had a little trouble. The
axle fittings were powder-coated and of course this reduces the ID of the
fitting, so I chucked up a piece of 5/16 tubing with a slot in the end that
I wrap a piece of sand paper belt around and did a little "honing". This
went fine. But when I tried to get the axles themselves into the fittings
it was a no go. I honed the inside of the fitting and did the "shoe shine
boy" motion on the axles themselves. They are all polished smooth as silk.
The axles barely go in the fittings at all. Can I run a reamer in the
fitting or keep sanding on the axle?
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Axle fittings |
Can I run a reamer in the
> fitting or keep sanding on the axle?
>
> Jeremy Casey
Jeremy/Gents:
Probably got some welding turds (burn through) inside the
axle fitting. Get a piece of aluminum tubing the same ID as
the fitting (5/8) and try to push it through. It will show
you where the turds are. Use a burr grinder or keep on
using the emery paper and drill routin. I don't think I
would try running a reamer through it.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tom sabean <sabean(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Leveling the cage |
Anyone have any good hints on how to level the cage prior to attaching
the wings?
The new Mark 111 Xtra builders manual says not to use a level. Any
suggestions appreciated.
Tom Sabean
Building Mark 111 Xtra
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: replacing a tire |
From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
03/18/2002 05:21:34 PM
Greetings.
I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims.
After much groaning and cursing I got the old tire off, and now need to get
the new one on and sealed. I currently have the new tire on one half rim,
but am not sure of the best way to expand the bead out to get onto the
other half rim and seal. I'll bet someone out there has a few hard-earned
tips for me. Also, there is an o-ring that goes between the two rim halfs.
Should I be using silicon to help hold and seal the o-ring in place? I
really dont want to struggle through all this only to find that the thing
leaks air
thanks,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
Santa Barbara, California 93117
Tel: 805-964-6010
fax: 805-964 0259
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: replacing a tire |
>
>
>Greetings.
>
>I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims.
Put a tube in it and make it easy on yourself.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: replacing a tire |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
A tube wont make the tire go over the rim easier. I usually put the tire
over my vise, expand the vise jaws and leave it there for 15 minutes or so.
That will stretch the tire so it will slide over the rim easier.
I fought with an Azuza wheel for half a day before I figured that out.
Ross
> From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 05:41:53 -0500
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: replacing a tire
>
>
>>
>>
>> Greetings.
>>
>> I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims.
>
>
> Put a tube in it and make it easy on yourself.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: replacing a tire |
I
> really dont want to struggle through all this only to find that the thing
> leaks air
>
> thanks,
>
> Erich Weaver
Hi Eric/Gents:
First, break the bead with two pieces of 1X2's or 2X4"'s and
a C Clamp.
Next, go down town and buy two inner tubes. 6X6 or 4X6 will
work fine.
Third, throw the o ring away.
Fourth, seat the beads with a little water, or soapy water,
and air pressure.
Yesterday I removed the 6.00X6 McCreary Air Tracs from my
upgraded MATCO's and reinstalled 8.00X6 McCreary Air Tracs.
Broke the beads with the heal of my deck shoe. Was amazed
and extremely happy. Once it took the die grinder and a cut
off wheel to cut the wire bead of the 8X6s on my old UL
Matcos.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Subject: | Re: replacing a tire |
Erich, Possum's got a point, but if you insist on tubeless......
step one: throw away the o-ring, step two: put the tire in between
the two halves and bolt them together, step three: a nice neat
ring of black (so you can see it) silicone seal at the split.--let
assy rest for at least four hours at room temp. step four:
pressurize enough to pop bead --put in 10 lbs and set aside
for another day. step five: adjust press to appropriate firmness
for your weight aircraft. ---fly. --BB
Possum wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Greetings.
> >
> >I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims.
>
> Put a tube in it and make it easy on yourself.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: replacing a tire |
In a message dated 3/18/02 5:41:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
possums(at)mindspring.com writes:
> Put a tube in it and make it easy on yourself.
>
>
>
Amen!! With a tube, you'll get a lot less leaks.
Around here [SC], we have lots of "sand spurs". The guys with no tubes are
constantly fixing flats; I have never had one. I also use a 4 ply rated
tire; I think it's a little thicker than a 2 ply rated.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: replacing a tire |
Let air pressure do the work for you. Put your tire on the rim and
reassemble your split rim wheel. Reuse the o ring. It seals the two
halves. Make sure all the bolts are reinstalled and tightened.
Remove the valve steam core using a valve steam removal tools. Save for
reinstallation later.
Take a little dish detergent (soap) and water mixed together and swap it
around the bead of the tire where it would seal with the rim.
Tie a of piece of good size diameter rope (5/16-3/8') around the
circumference (tread area) of the tire. Put a stick thru the rope and
start twisting it, this will cause the rope around the circumference of the
tire to shrink and make the tire balloon out to make contact with the sides
of the rim. Don't over do it.
Use extreme caution with this next step.
Take a air hose and air into the valve stem. Keep your fingers away from
the bead of the tire and the rim, when it catches air it expands very
suddenly and hard, faster than your reflexes. If it does catch air
immediately, bounce the tire up and down on the rim a little, if still does
catch tie the rope and little more.
When it catches it expand and snap out to the edges of the rim. When it
does this stop immediately injecting air and loosen the rope. Do not
continue to pump air in with the rope on the wheel. On auto tire I've seen
it shear a 1/4" bolt of like there was nothing to it, lots of force
developed. If the tire deflates and drops back of the rim, reinstall the
valve stem core, and retighten the rope and repeat the process, but again
once it catches cease injecting air into the tire. Loosen the rope, take
it off and finish airing it up. Some times it takes a little pressure
built up in the tire after the rope is removed to get the tires beads to
snap out to the seated positions on the rims.
This should work but do be careful.
jerryb
>
>
>Greetings.
>
>I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims.
>After much groaning and cursing I got the old tire off, and now need to get
>the new one on and sealed. I currently have the new tire on one half rim,
>but am not sure of the best way to expand the bead out to get onto the
>other half rim and seal. I'll bet someone out there has a few hard-earned
>tips for me. Also, there is an o-ring that goes between the two rim halfs.
>Should I be using silicon to help hold and seal the o-ring in place? I
>really dont want to struggle through all this only to find that the thing
>leaks air
>
>thanks,
>
>Erich Weaver
>erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
>130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
>Santa Barbara, California 93117
>
>Tel: 805-964-6010
>fax: 805-964 0259
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Subject: | Re: Leveling the cage |
Tom,
The first version of the Xtra construction manual called for using a plumb
bob tied to the center of the 1 inch square main spar carry through tube,
and the line hanging down in front of the 6 inch boom tube connection. shim
the sides of the fuse until the line intersects the center of the boom tube.
your cage will level side to side. This sounds really simple until you
realize there are several other smaller tubes in the way. This is the case
with the original Xtras. About all you can do is shim the fuse so the point
of the bob is touching the top center of the boom tube. Good luck
Guy Swenson
MKIII Xtra
----- Original Message -----
From: "tom sabean" <sabean(at)ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Kolb-List: Leveling the cage
>
> Anyone have any good hints on how to level the cage prior to attaching
> the wings?
> The new Mark 111 Xtra builders manual says not to use a level. Any
> suggestions appreciated.
> Tom Sabean
> Building Mark 111 Xtra
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: replacing a tire |
A very light coat of silicone on the o-ring. Take a thick rope or band and
make a tourniquet around the tire,then tighten it up with a stick to expand
the tire the fill.
David Snyder Building FSII Long Branch N.J.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: replacing a tire |
> Tie a of piece of good size diameter rope (5/16-3/8') around the
> circumference (tread area) of the tire. Put a stick thru the rope and
> start twisting it, this will cause the rope around the circumference of the
> tire to shrink and make the tire balloon out to make contact with the sides
> of the rim. Don't over do it.
>
> Use extreme caution with this next step.
> Take a air hose and air into the valve stem. Keep your fingers away from
> the bead of the tire and the rim, when it catches air it expands very
> suddenly and hard, faster than your reflexes. If it does catch air
> immediately, bounce the tire up and down on the rim a little, if still does
> catch tie the rope and little more.
>
> When it catches it expand and snap out to the edges of the rim. When it
> does this stop immediately injecting air and loosen the rope. Do not
> continue to pump air in with the rope on the wheel. On auto tire I've seen
> it shear a 1/4" bolt of like there was nothing to it, lots of force
> developed. If the tire deflates and drops back of the rim, reinstall the
> valve stem core, and retighten the rope and repeat the process, but again
> once it catches cease injecting air into the tire. Loosen the rope, take
> it off and finish airing it up. Some times it takes a little pressure
> built up in the tire after the rope is removed to get the tires beads to
> snap out to the seated positions on the rims.
>
> This should work but do be careful.
>
> jerryb
Erich/jerryb/Gang:
All of the above can be eliminated with a tube plus slow
leaks.
The Possum and the Hawk have spoke, and I think a few other
have also. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com> |
Subject: | Thanks for the reply |
Thanks for the replies about wrong tube. Yup TNK sent the wrong drawings. I
called and they will be sending more drawings and tubes. Now as a Draftsman
I know that no set of drawing goes out of the shop 100%. But frankly the
level of mistakes that I have seen so far in my drawing set are
unacceptable. Drawings need to be proofed, often proofing the drawings are
done by the same people doing the drawing, and that is a recipe for
mistakes. I will give a drawing that one student makes to another student to
see if the second student can reproduce the original drawing from the given
information. This will show up missed dimension etc... very quickly.. Now I
don't expect TNK to do this but having an outside proofer that knows
aircraft construction but not this project would have shown some of the
mistakes.
Since this is my first powered aircraft I expect that the plans be of a
quality that will give me the confidence in the aircraft that you need to
have in a first time project.
Nit picking I don't think so just a demand for quality from first rivet to
last. ( I can only hope my building skills are up to the task :) )
Ken James
Drafting Design Instructor
Berks Career and Technology Center
3307 Freidensburg Rd.
Oley Pa. 19547
610-987-6201 Ext 3532
Kdjames(at)berkscareer.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: changing the rule |
Anybody who has a very light plane and wants it at an airport already has
that option and you CANNOT keep them out. It's called Experimental - Part 91.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>Steve and others,
>
>There are ultralight pilots who know the rules and practice them, but can
>you imagine the mess we're going to have at airports when SP becomes
>legal? I'm all for keeping the very light planes (330 lbs or less) out
>of airports. All we have to do is raise 103 weight limits to take care of
>many of these fat ultralights.
>
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original Firestar
>(slightly 'fat' ultralight)
>
>
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: replacing a tire |
There have been several ideas offered on how to get a tire to come loose
from the rims, here is a good one I have seen. One of our locals took an
old 2'X4' scrap of 1" plywood, cut a hole in it near one side that is
slightly bigger than the diameter of the rim. He lays the tire on the
ground, lays the plywood on the tire with the hole just above the rim, and
drives his pickup truck onto the plywood. Redneck physics at it's best.
Just be careful you don't get the plywood misaligned...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Greetings.
>
>I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims.
>After much groaning and cursing I got the old tire off,
>thanks,
>
>Erich Weaver
>erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
>130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
>Santa Barbara, California 93117
>
>Tel: 805-964-6010
>fax: 805-964 0259
>
>
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Kolbers, the suggestion made of hordes of new pilots swarming the
skies without appropriate instruction in the courtesies of flight
.......
First, I doubt that there will be that much of an increase in aviation
(although any improvement around here would be welcome).
Second, although being in the past as bad a scoflaw as any, my
flight training included VERY definite rules and practices regarding
pattern flying, entries, etc. This is the most important aspect of
flying--outranking navigation, pretty landings, leather flight jackets.
Seems there are a few who think "uncontrolled airport" means
flying directly over the strip at pattern altitude and cutting in
downwind , ignoring pattern altitude, straight-ins.
--If it's YOUR strip, fine, otherwise get in line with the rest of us
--BB, back down off his soapbox
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: replacing a tire |
Be aware that you just can't always walk in and just buy a tube by size, it
must also have the valve stem oriented properly to match your wheel. We
have a tire center in our area that carries a number of different tubes and
can order them, they don't carry them all.
jerryb
>
>
> > Tie a of piece of good size diameter rope (5/16-3/8') around the
> > circumference (tread area) of the tire. Put a stick thru the rope and
> > start twisting it, this will cause the rope around the circumference of the
> > tire to shrink and make the tire balloon out to make contact with the sides
> > of the rim. Don't over do it.
> >
> > Use extreme caution with this next step.
> > Take a air hose and air into the valve stem. Keep your fingers away from
> > the bead of the tire and the rim, when it catches air it expands very
> > suddenly and hard, faster than your reflexes. If it does catch air
> > immediately, bounce the tire up and down on the rim a little, if still does
> > catch tie the rope and little more.
> >
> > When it catches it expand and snap out to the edges of the rim. When it
> > does this stop immediately injecting air and loosen the rope. Do not
> > continue to pump air in with the rope on the wheel. On auto tire I've seen
> > it shear a 1/4" bolt of like there was nothing to it, lots of force
> > developed. If the tire deflates and drops back of the rim, reinstall the
> > valve stem core, and retighten the rope and repeat the process, but again
> > once it catches cease injecting air into the tire. Loosen the rope, take
> > it off and finish airing it up. Some times it takes a little pressure
> > built up in the tire after the rope is removed to get the tires beads to
> > snap out to the seated positions on the rims.
> >
> > This should work but do be careful.
> >
> > jerryb
>
>Erich/jerryb/Gang:
>
>All of the above can be eliminated with a tube plus slow
>leaks.
>
>The Possum and the Hawk have spoke, and I think a few other
>have also. :-)
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: changing the rule |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
> Anybody who has a very light plane and wants it at an airport
> already has
> that option and you CANNOT keep them out. It's called Experimental -
> Part 91.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Richard,
As an ex air traffic controller, I hope that you can see the writing on
the wall.
Try having a powered parachute land at your local airport. I'm not
talking down ppc's but this is what is going to happen along with many
fat ultralights when they get those N-numbers.
By the way, ppc pilots enjoy what they are doing as well as what we do. A
number of them are ex military or private pilots wanting to get away from
regulation and fly low and slow. I suspect the bulk of the ppc pilots
will not make the transition to SP and if they do, look for them in the
pattern.
Worse yet, think about the guy at your local airport flying a high
performance 912 powered Titan Tornado piloted after 20 hours of training
and has a history of heart problems, yet drives his SUV to the airport.
If this is what the flying public wants, this is what the flying public
is going to get!
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
(satisfied flying out of a grass strip as a little 'ol ultralight)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: changing the rule |
> Gosh ........ I wonder if I qualify as an 'aviator' ?
>
> (probably not in John's book .....)
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
> 15 years flying it
Ralph/Gang:
If you fly and comply with the regs that covers ultralight
vehicles, you probably are. If you don't, you probably
aren't. If you aren't, it would probably help to get into
the regs and AIM a little. A lot of good info in there.
Folks that fly ultralights who are not aviators, are folks
that give ultralighting a black eye.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: changing the rule |
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
> (satisfied flying out of a grass strip as a little 'ol ultralight)
Ralph/Gents/Ladies(?):
I am happy you are satisfied flying out of a grass strip,
but you keep forgetting, you probably are not a legal
ultralight. You probably do not comply with Part 103.
Your post yesterday reference the reason "fat ultralights"
came into existence, because of bigger heavier engines, does
not carry much water with me, and I am sure it won't carry
much water with the FAA. I could see no justification to
change the rule for those reasons.
Problems with traffic of grossly different airspeeds, i.e.,
ultralights in GA traffic patterns, has been dealt with
since and before Part 103 came into existence. I fly about
the same speeds now as I did with my Ultrastar and
Firestar. I have been able to coexist with GA traffic. Try
Addison, Texas, Jet Port. Flew out of there for 3 days June
1998. The tower operators and I worked together and we had
no problems, especially when they found out what the MK III
was capable of, i.e., extremely tight circles on close in
down wind to give a jet time to land, or breaking left or
right out of the runway line right after lift off to give
the jet behind me clearance to take off or land. It worked
very smoothly. Dead Horse, Alaska: Uncontrolled
airport/jetport. Many single engine Pipers/Cessnas and my
MK III have operated out of that airport when I was there in
1994 and 2001. Prince George, BC, White Horse, YT,
Fairbanks, AK, Minot, ND, Glacier National Park, MT, and on
and on. Aviation folks can live together safely and
happily. We did it in VN, rotary wing, jet traffic, recip
traffic. We do it in the States.
I have been flying out of my cow pasture since July 1984.
Flew out of it yesterday and today. Hope I can keep on
keeping on.
Please to not interpret my email incorrectly. I do not fly
in to controlled airports unless I have a reason to fly
there. I am not authorized to fly anywhere I need a Mode C
Transponder cause I don't have one and do not need one. I
think I have shown folks that I can fly to some pretty
interesting places without that extra black box. If I need
to get into an airport that requires mode c, like my
hometown of TLH, FL, then I make a call to the Tower by land
line and ask permission. They give me a window and here I
come. I have also made the request by radio, in flight,
been picked up on their radar, and given permission to
land. A lot depends on their workload and the personality
of the controller. Most airports welcome the business. The
more operations they can justify the more funds Uncle Sugar
gives them to operate, or sumthin like that. I do not make
a habit of it, and prefer little uncontrolled airports.
Better yet if they are grass instead of pavement.
I hope they change Part 103 so you will be legal. It feels
much more comfortable to be that way. Been flying legal
since 1990. Very illegal prior to that time.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Morning Gang:
Here is a url for a problem encountered by Ed Dart, a young
man who has been flying trikes for about two years. He
seemed to have no fear of flying great distances over the US
and even mentioned to me that he was about ready to try
Alaska. Ed, although flown a lot of long cross country
flights, still lacked some good aviator skills that could
only be obtained by training and a lot of experience. He
fearlessly did a lot of daring things and got away with it,
for a while. Then it bit him square in the ass and he was
not prepared for what he experienced. You may want to read
the rest of the web site before you read of his crash. This
may help you understand the importance of "good" training
and preparation prior to tangling with the experience of
serious cross country flying.
This is the home page:
http://www.ulsafaris.com/SharkBait.htm
This is the "crash" page:
http://www.ulsafaris.com/Crash.htm
Ed Dart's crash was a good reminder to me also. No one is
immune to "Murphy". Ignore "Murphy" and you will surely
have an unexpected meeting with him at the most inopportune
time.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
Subject: | Large head rivets |
I have seen some here seeking a source for the large head, aluminum rivets
used to attach the fabric on the Kolb wing. I found them at
www.rivetsplus.com. The part # for the 1/8" X 1/8" with a 3/8" dia. dome
head is AD42BSLE and they are sold in boxes of 100 @ $7.37/100.
Dale Sellers
do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Large head rivets |
> I have seen some here seeking a source for the large head, aluminum rivets
> used to attach the fabric on the Kolb wing. I found them at
> www.rivetsplus.com. The part # for the 1/8" X 1/8" with a 3/8" dia. dome
> head is AD42BSLE and they are sold in boxes of 100 @ $7.37/100.
>
> Dale Sellers
Dale/Gents:
Do these rivets meet the same strength requirements as
Polyfiber Fabric Rivets:
******************************************************
Fabric Rib Rivets
Blind rib rivets. Comes 100 in a bag. All aluminum
1/8" diameter body, 3/8"
diameter head, .031 to .125 grip range, 156 lbs.
shear, 235 lbs. tensile.
******************************************************
I have found some alum large head rivets purchased from
other than Stitts/Polyfiber sources are not nearly as
strong.
Here is a good source of fabric rivets and other covering
materials:
http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Lessons Learned |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
>
> Morning Gang:
>
> Here is a url for a problem encountered by Ed Dart, a young
> man who has been flying trikes for about two years. He
> seemed to have no fear of flying great distances over the US
> and even mentioned to me that he was about ready to try
> Alaska. Ed, although flown a lot of long cross country
> flights, still lacked some good aviator skills that could
> only be obtained by training and a lot of experience. He
> fearlessly did a lot of daring things and got away with it,
> for a while. Then it bit him square in the ass and he was
> not prepared for what he experienced. You may want to read
> the rest of the web site before you read of his crash. This
> may help you understand the importance of "good" training
> and preparation prior to tangling with the experience of
> serious cross country flying.
>
> This is the home page:
>
> http://www.ulsafaris.com/SharkBait.htm
>
> This is the "crash" page:
>
> http://www.ulsafaris.com/Crash.htm
>
> Ed Dart's crash was a good reminder to me also. No one is
> immune to "Murphy". Ignore "Murphy" and you will surely
> have an unexpected meeting with him at the most inopportune
> time.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
John and others,
I emailed Ed Dart on 12/3/01 when I saw his webpage in the internet. He
didn't replace or inspect the bolt that failed before his trip but
instead talked with another trike owner. That trike owner said it would
be ok. The bolt wasn't even A/N and I was taken back by that. I think he
learned a good one.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
Ed wrote:
It wasn't a Jesus bolt that broke it was the main
bolt. The reason for the use of the non aircraft bolt
is as follows; The wing was US and the trike was
Metric, I was told to drill out the wing coupling to
the larger metric size and use an 8.8 grade metric
bolt. In Europe the 8.8 grade metric bolt is the bolt
of choice and should have done the job. It appears
the bolt may have been defective, it has been sent to
be tested. I will let everyone know once I know something.
Ed Dart
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Fw: Zenith-List: Avemco/EAA ties |
Im posting this from the Zenith list.... Ive been following this thread for
a while and now its a little more clearer whats going on with this sorry
excuse for an insurance company (IMHO)... you know, they always have a
booth at Sun n Fun... I guess Ill have to stop by this time and say
hello......! Im upset because I got my renewal for liability insurance for
RENTALS and it went way up............ nothing to do with experimentals...
they are socking it to everybody...but their CRIME is not raising rates...
that's business.. their CRIME is not communicating with their customers as
to what is going on with rate hikes and policy cancellations! Its about
time EAA started communicating with their members... sounds like they're
starting to:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Liming
>
>
> To Zenith List,
>
> I wrote to the EAA as below, and I did get this response from Joe Norris
of
> the EAA:
>
> >From: Joe Norris <jnorris(at)eaa.org>
> >To: 'Gary Liming'
> >Subject: RE: Avemco/EAA ties
> >Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 17:49:24 -0600
> >X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19)
> >
> >Gary,
> >
> >Thanks for your note, and I appreciate your situation and feelings. The
> >fact is, Avemco is currently undergoing some major management changes,
and
> >has recently made some decisions on insurance without EAA's knowledge.
In
> >fact, we were made aware of the situation through a call from a member,
and
> >were just as surprised as you are now.
> >
> >Please understand that EAA is working hard to rectify this situation, or
> >find alternate solutions. Officials from Avemco are coming to EAA
> >headquarters early next week, and we plan on having some serious
discussions
> >with them regarding all manner of aviation insurance. We hope to be able
to
> >find solutions to the immediate problem, and to assure that similar
problems
> >won't come up in the future.
> >
> >We are also looking at what other alternatives might be available to us.
> >However, we don't have any solid info to pass along at this time. I ask
for
> >your patience in this frustrating time, and hope that you'll keep a close
> >watch on the EAA web site and Sport Aviation magazine for news of
> >developments on this issue.
> >
> >Please let me know if you have further questions or comments.
> >
> >Joe Norris
> >EAA Aviation Information Services
> >EAA Aviation Center, Oshkosh, WI
> >888-322-4636, extension 6806
> >jnorris(at)eaa.org
>
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Gary Liming [mailto:gary(at)liming.org]
> >Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 5:35 PM
> >To: infoserv(at)eaa.org
> >Subject: Avemco/EAA ties
> >
> >I just had a dissapointing call to Avemco.
> >
> >I am currently building a Zenith CH801 (that's the one whose panel is
> >displayed on the main page of the Homebuilders website banner.) and am
> >getting ready to make the engine selection. I hope to fly it to
Airventure
> >next year for the First Flight program.
> >
> >I picked the Zenith CH801 because Zenith has such a good safety record
> >(never had a structural failure) and they have such good safety and
> >completion records.
> >
> >I called Avemco because they are promoted by the EAA web site and
> >participate in the EAA Flight Advisors and Tech Counselor programs.
> >
> >Imagine my surprise when I was told that Avemco no longer will insure any
> >of the kit planes offered by Zenith! They said they will still insure a
> >few of the RV's, but they were cutting back on writing any policies for
> >them, too.
> >
> >If Avemco wants to get out of the kitplane insurance business, that's
their
> >decision. I can't understand why the EAA would promote Avemco on their
> >website when they are refusing to underwrite policies for their
> >homebuilders. Could you explain to me what is going on?
> >
> >Please note that I am not building anything unusual - a standard Zenith
kit
> >with a certified engine.
> >
> >Can the EAA offer me any help for insuring my plane?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Gary Liming
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 03/18/02 |
Ralph and Group:
It is not my intent to rain on anyone's parade but why a limit of 330
pounds? Why not 450 or 500? Why are we fixating on a weight limit. Also,
why do we limit gas to 5 gallons or even 10 gallons? What are we trying to
accomplish?
As long as it is a true single seat, why do we select an arbitrary weigh and
fuel limit? As soon as we set a limit on those items we will be right back
to the same old game of trying to push the limits.
Please don't misunderstand. I support increased weight and increased fuel
but I wonder why we are forced into thinking about these limits instead of
what we really want. What are we trying to accomplish with 103?
"The freedom to fly as long as that freedom does not impose a danger on
others?"
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <wecounselman3(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Why Weight, Speed and Fuel Limits on 103 |
Vic writes:
> why a limit of 330
> why do we limit gas to 5 gallons or even 10 gallons?
> What are we trying to
> accomplish?
It is my understanding that part 103 sets limits such
as 254 lbs, 55 kts and 5 gallons of fuel in order to
limit the damage an ultralight vehicle can do when it
impacts something on the ground. Without such limits
the FAA is never going to allow unlicensed pilots to
fly unregulated aircraft.
=====
http://movies.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Lloyd O'Dell" <wander10(at)infi.net> |
Kolb Builders,
I am building a Firestar II with a 503 engine, and I need some
technical advice. I did not receive paper work with my UMA Inc.
tachometer. It has three wires coming out the rear, a red, a white, and
a black. I assume the black is for ground. My question is what wire do
I hook to the gray wire on the engine and what do I do with the other
wire? Lloyd O'Dell
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Well, Sports Fans, SnF approacheth, and I gotta question................
Those little FRS, 14 channel radios that my friends and I borrowed for
the whale watching trip worked so well, that I went out and bought a
pair of my own, which I plan on bringing to SnF.
Problem.................... apparently you can't buy good quality FRS
radios any more, just kid's toys, so I bought a pair of Motorola
Talkabout, T6400 radios, and they work extremely well............I'm
very impressed with them. They are GMRS radios, and supposedly require
a license. (which I do have) They also have a 5 mile range, compared
to 2 mile for the older ones. They have the original 14 channels, plus
a bunch more, up to 22. My question regards the security codes. Which
security code on the GMRS will allow me to talk to an FRS radio, on,
say, channels 1 thru 7 ?? The instructions don't say. I know some of
you plan on bringing radios to Snf.............what channel do you want
to use ?? From reading the instructions, it seems like 1 - 7 would work
the best for me. How else are we going to identify each other ?? I
plan to wear my EAA chapter ID badge on my Kolb hat, and wear my fancy
Kolb T shirt. I'll be the good lookin' guy with all the ladies
throwing themselves at my feet. ( Don't I wish..............they'll
prob'ly throw rocks.) Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Radios at SnF |
Yah, but these things have "security codes." How do they interface with the
older FRS radios ??
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radios at SnF
>
> Larry/Gang:
>
> I have a pair of T6250's. They are on sale at Office Max
> for 34.95 each, about half price. I got the 5100's or
> 5200's from West Marine (29.95 a pair), but Nell and I
> discovered without the ability to go between channels, we
> were covered up with traffic most of the time (in the
> casinos). I imagine Sun and Fun area will be pretty >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rayfield, Don" <drayfiel(at)kcc.com> |
Re: Hawk 36's message about sitting in miss P'fer: I feel honored to have
gotten a ride with John at the UN-flyin at London last fall. That is
absolutely one awsome performing aircraft. Several of us got rides with John
while there. You can tell he has a lot of hours in her and he really knows
what he's doing. He even did a Gantt International landing with me. That
consisted of a steep decent with flaps, then leveling off a few feet from
the ground, and a smooooth landing and stopping in a short run out.
so you'll be just a passenger. That's OK with me though. My son and I also
got rides in the factory Kolbra when we picked up our kit at London in
October. That's another fine A/C. I just hope our's performs as well.
Thanks again John.
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged,
confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure
under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly
by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy.
Thank you.
==============================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rayfield, Don" <drayfiel(at)kcc.com> |
For some unknown reason a sentence was left out of my note.After the smoooth
landing sentence I wanted to say: By the way "Big Lar" the passenger control
stick is removed so you'll just be a passenger.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rayfield, Don [mailto:drayfiel(at)kcc.com]
Subject: Kolb-List: Radio's at SnF
Re: Hawk 36's message about sitting in miss P'fer: I feel honored to have
gotten a ride with John at the UN-flyin at London last fall. That is
absolutely one awsome performing aircraft. Several of us got rides with John
while there. You can tell he has a lot of hours in her and he really knows
what he's doing. He even did a Gantt International landing with me. That
consisted of a steep decent with flaps, then leveling off a few feet from
the ground, and a smooooth landing and stopping in a short run out.
so you'll be just a passenger. That's OK with me though. My son and I also
got rides in the factory Kolbra when we picked up our kit at London in
October. That's another fine A/C. I just hope our's performs as well.
Thanks again John.
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain
privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from
disclosure under law. If you have received this message in error, please
inform us promptly by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any
printed copy. Thank you.
============================================================================
==
--
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain
privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from
disclosure under law. If you have received this message in error, please
inform us promptly by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any
printed copy. Thank you.
============================================================================
==
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged,
confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure
under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly
by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy.
Thank you.
==============================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 03/21/02 |
Hey John and others,
Mulberry, South Lakeland Airport X49 is ultralight friendly, has camping,
has a shuttle, and only 5 minutes from Sun-N-Fun. Jay Kurtz is the owner
863-425-8655, thought I pass it on.
Hans van Alphen
Kolb Mark III Xtra
BMW powered - 10 hrs.
> original message
If it get too tough to fly
>at Lakeland, we can always go down to South Lakeland (Circle
>X). Those folks have gotten real ultralight friendly down
>there. Used to try and charge us to fly in there during
>S&F. Who knows, they may still require a landing fee.
>Blackwater Creek is always available, but is further away
>from Lakeland Airport.
>
>john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Subject: | Free Thunderbird, Blue Angels videos |
Free Thunderbird, Blue Angels videos
I've got 5 copies of a Thunderbirds / Blue Angles video which we'll give
away for Free to the first 5 people who ask for it along with any other
regular order from Builder's Bookstore.
It's a 50 minute video, 1/2 on the Thunderbirds, and 1/2 on the Blue
Angels. The Thunderbird segment is excellent. The Blue Angels section
is not as good.
To get one, just write FREE THUNDERBIRDS VIDEO in the special
instructions box on the Builder's Bookstore on-line order form, or say
so if you prefer to order something by phone.
Also, in case you are caller #6 or later, note if your regular order
depends on whether there is a free video left to include in your
package.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Handheld CB Test |
Earlier this month I wrote that I had ordered a handheld radio for use at the Lakeland
fly-in and would report on the result.
I ordered a pair pf Cobra Model FRS 220 radios from premier(at)hotbuy4u.com
. They shipped them the same day by U.S. Mail. A full description of all
their radios and other stuff is presented in their on-line catalog.
The radios arrived in bubble-pack and in good shape but sans batteries. These are
re-manufactured units. Each radio takes 4 AAA alkalines which were a little
snug in the battery compartment. The instructions are adequate even for the number
of functions this unit has. It has the 14 FM Family Radio Service (FRS)
channels plus thirty-seven sub channels, a Calling button, battery indicator etc.
We field tested the main functions by increasing the distance between them
as we used the incoming call signal then
talking and listening. The reception was good from inside the house to a
location 1/2 mile through the woods. The "up to 2 mile range" is very optimistic
and would only be possible on line-of-site transmissions.
Since there are no hills at Lakeland the only obstructions would be trees and buildings
so the caller would have to step out of the metal buildings to call and
hope the receiver would not be more than a mile away. These are still good
for the money and will be handy at SnF if we can set up a Kolb frequency.
Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 115 Hrs, MK3/912 Classic in the
workshop
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | the very slow and the very fast |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Hi Vic and others,
By limiting the weight to 330 lbs, it would keep many fat ul's that would
be too slow for landing patterns out of the airports. Under Sport Pilot,
ALL aircraft (fixed-wings, trikes, and ppc's) over 254 lbs will be
allowed into airports where they are NOT welcome. The 330 lb limit was
chosen as a very modest increase in weight that will allow the FAA to
look at it more favorably and accomplish our goal of complete separation
between very slow ultralights and very fast aircraft.
Not a good idea to mix the very slow and the very fast aircraft at an
airport.
Under Sport Pilot we ALL will be 'aircraft' and if this is what the
flying public wants, this is what the flying public is going to get!
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
(even faster than most)
>
> Ralph and Group:
>
> It is not my intent to rain on anyone's parade but why a limit of
> 330
> pounds? Why not 450 or 500? Why are we fixating on a weight limit.
> Also,
> why do we limit gas to 5 gallons or even 10 gallons? What are we
> trying to
> accomplish?
>
> As long as it is a true single seat, why do we select an arbitrary
> weigh and
> fuel limit? As soon as we set a limit on those items we will be
> right back
> to the same old game of trying to push the limits.
>
> Please don't misunderstand. I support increased weight and
> increased fuel
> but I wonder why we are forced into thinking about these limits
> instead of
> what we really want. What are we trying to accomplish with 103?
>
> "The freedom to fly as long as that freedom does not impose a danger
> on
> others?"
>
> Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Mulberry, South Lakeland Airport |
Our gang at Southern Flyers Ultralite Association stayed there a couple of
years ago and it was wonderful. I RV'D in and a few others did also. Towed
the ole Firestar and had a ball. good tie down area. camping, showers,
water, most important, shuttle to the SNF area. you are only a few minutes
away from that fun but you can FLY WHENEVER you want to where - ever you want
from there. Cost a few bucks a day but would do it again in a heartbeat if I
was going to Sun-un-Fun. Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gene Vickery" <h2opilot(at)cwo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest |
Ralph,
I don't understand. To my knowledge there is nothing in the Federal
Aviation Regulations nor in the Sport Pilot proposal that prohibits ANY
aircraft from operations at any public use airport. True, there may be
specific requirements, such as contacting the control tower before
entering Class D airspace, and there may be special procedures for
different kinds of flying machines such as helicopters and ultralights.
And I agree it may not be safe to mix "very slow traffic" with "very
fast traffic" in the same pattern at an airport. You wrote, "Under Sport
Pilot we ALL will be 'aircraft'...." FAR definition from Subchapter A,
Part 1, Section 1.1: "Aircraft means a device that us used or intended
to be used for flight in the air." The FAR's also say, "Pilot in command
means the person who: (1) Has final authority and responsibility for the
operation and safety of the flight...." So by those formal definitions
you and I are both pilots flying aircraft, you in your Firestar and me
in my certified general aviation light plane. And we probably both enjoy
flight for the same reasons; to experience the magic.
I have been a GA pilot for nearly 50 years and recently landed at a
small airport in Southern Oregon where there is a lot of ultralight
activity. I was amazed at the perceived conflict the UL pilots had with
the GA pilots. The UL pilots seemed to think the GA pilots looked down
on them, and had developed what I can best describe as "outlaw
defensive" attitudes....some of which is expressed on this site. The
perception is false. We're all pilots and we're all operating aircraft.
And most of us fly for the same reasons whether we fly "very slow
ultralights" or "very fast aircraft". You're welcome to fly into my home
airport any time....and I'll make room for you in the pattern.
Gene Vickery
Tehachapi, California
Hi Vic and others,
By limiting the weight to 330 lbs, it would keep many fat ul's that
would
be too slow for landing patterns out of the airports. Under Sport Pilot,
ALL aircraft (fixed-wings, trikes, and ppc's) over 254 lbs will be
allowed into airports where they are NOT welcome. The 330 lb limit was
chosen as a very modest increase in weight that will allow the FAA to
look at it more favorably and accomplish our goal of complete separation
between very slow ultralights and very fast aircraft.
Not a good idea to mix the very slow and the very fast aircraft at an
airport.
Under Sport Pilot we ALL will be 'aircraft' and if this is what the
flying public wants, this is what the flying public is going to get!
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
(even faster than most)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
Subject: | Re: tire changing post script |
03/23/2002 12:50:20 PM
Took the advice and stuck a tube in my tubless tire. A final note on this
for others that may be contemplating the same: For my Matco rim, the hole
pattern was not exactly symmetrical - that is, I was unable to get the
wheel mounted back on the plane without the two rim halves being matched
up exactly the same as when I had taken them off. Doesnt seem right, but
thats how it was for me. I put a small mark with a sharpie on the interior
of the rim halves to show how they match up. Man, nothing is ever as
simple as it should be.
Regards,
Erich
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 03/22/02 |
I would like to see weight limit go to 341 because my Firestar with
parachute and brakes weighs in at 339.
The flaw in the FAA's separation reasoning is that a Champ is just about as
slow as a Firestar on approach yet the Champ can legally mix it up with the
biz-jet while a Firestar can't however if I license my Firestar then it can
mix it up with the biz-jet. Don't read me wrong here, I don't want to mix
with the biz jet. My question for the FAA, is a Firestar in the pattern
with a radio a hazard while a non-radio Champ not; just because the Champ
has a number on it.
I have been flying out of a spray plane strip with 1500 horse power
turboprop planes and they don't have radios and the pilots wouldn't use them
if the had them. You can bet I kept and eagle eye out for them and stayed
out of their way.
Do any of you remember the H. O. Malone proposal a few years back. That
made the most sense to me of any thing I have seen as a solution for fat
ultralights.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Radios at SnF |
Kolbers,
I too bought a pair (open box special!) of radios. Mine are Audiovox
GMRS, 5mi. range radios. My manual says I have 15 channels & each channel
has 00-38 subchannels. Channels 1-7 are identical to & compatible with the
FMS, 2mi. radios.
The subchannels or "codes" are not actually different frequencies, but
rather, they provide a selective squelch. So if you are talking on channel
1, code 10, you would hear & respond only to others on channel 1 code 10.
But if you are using an uncoded Channel 1 you will hear all the traffic on
channel 1, including all the 37 (I assume 00 is uncoded) coded subchannels.
So here's my proposal for our Kolb-List Sun & Fun channel: 1-7 is
available to both FMS & GMRS radios. 1,3 & 7, I believe, will be the most
frequently chosen numbers, so lets not pick one of them. Kolb has 4 letters
so let's use Channel 4, with code or subchannel 4. That way if we forget
our channel, we can just count the letters on our hat.
So how about it, is 4-4 official?
...Richard Swiderski
>
> Yah, but these things have "security codes." How do they interface with
the
> older FRS radios ??
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Radios at SnF |
Sounds fine with me. Anyone else ?? I spoke with the fella at work who
loaned me the 2 FRS radios for the Mexico trip, and he's going to bring 1 of
them to work on Tuesday. Our shifts overlap 2 hours, so............if we're
not busy.............we're gonna play with those radios, and see what works.
His are FRS, mine are GMRS. When we get it done, I'll post the results. If
4 - 4 works, let's go for it.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radios at SnF
<swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
>
> Kolbers,
>
> I too bought a pair (open box special!) of radios. Mine are Audiovox
> GMRS, 5mi. range radios. My manual says I have 15 channels & each channel
> has 00-38 subchannels. Channels 1-7 are identical to & compatible with
the
> FMS, 2mi. radios.
> The subchannels or "codes" are not actually different frequencies, but
> rather, they provide a selective squelch. So if you are talking on
channel
> 1, code 10, you would hear & respond only to others on channel 1 code 10.
> But if you are using an uncoded Channel 1 you will hear all the traffic on
> channel 1, including all the 37 (I assume 00 is uncoded) coded
subchannels.
> So here's my proposal for our Kolb-List Sun & Fun channel: 1-7 is
> available to both FMS & GMRS radios. 1,3 & 7, I believe, will be the most
> frequently chosen numbers, so lets not pick one of them. Kolb has 4
letters
> so let's use Channel 4, with code or subchannel 4. That way if we forget
> our channel, we can just count the letters on our hat.
> So how about it, is 4-4 official?
> ...Richard Swiderski
>
>
> >
> > Yah, but these things have "security codes." How do they interface with
> the
> > older FRS radios ??
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Flycrazy8(at)aol.com |
Subject: | any "flying circus" members |
greetings,
I recently acquired a replica of a 1917 Fokker DV11. In putting it together I
have run upon a problem with the wing strut wires. I'm sure they are supposed
to be a certain amount of tension on these to give proper support. Do any of
you flying "Red Barrons" have any experience or helpful advice to offer me.
It will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F |
In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes:
>
> You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone needs
> to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much until
> early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell ph.
> #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those little
> radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas.
> Time to start planning!
> ...Richard Swiderski
>
Richard,
If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your trailer
Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to get
an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store and
buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking about 6:30
pm?
What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on us?
Jim and Dondi too!
Steven Green
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F |
SGreenpg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes:
>
> >
> > You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone needs
> > to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much until
> > early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell ph.
> > #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those little
> > radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas.
> > Time to start planning!
> > ...Richard Swiderski
> >
>
> Richard,
> If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your trailer
> Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to get
> an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store and
> buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking about 6:30
> pm?
>
> What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on us?
> Jim and Dondi too!
>
> Steven Green
Steven/Richard/Gents/
Think the above is a good idea.
Keep in mind, evening flight period will not be over until
sundown or a little earlier. Based on the last few years,
if it is not windy, the powered parachutes will get the last
flight period, so, the fixed wing ultralights and
lightplanes will probably be finished up around 7:00 PM.
I also recommend the Kolb crew and the Millers be invited.
Getting excited about getting together with the Kolb List at
Lakeland. Only two weeks from today. Hope we a blessed
with good weather for the entire week.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ronnie Wren" <rsweld(at)pgtv.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb Mark 111 |
Anyone have the thickness of Lexan material needed to replace
the windshield and door coverings on my '99 Mark 111?
Thanks, Rw
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Andrew Gassmann <agassmann(at)earthlink.net> |
Listers,
I am about to break in my new Zanzottera MZ201 engine on Firefly 052. They
say Castrol TTS
oil only, but that is EXPENSIVE stuff.
I went through the searcher on the list, and looked at synthetics. I saw
many different
uses and suggestions, from Klotz to WalMart.
I saw suggestions to break it in with mineral oil, then switch to
synthetics, and many
saying the new synthetics are superior to 10 years ago, so almost any will do.
so, I am asking your experienced suggestions. Please reply off list, no use
cluttering it
with my requested information. Could you please reply to:
agassmann(at)earthlink.net
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb Mark 111 |
Ronnie Wren wrote:
>
>
> Anyone have the thickness of Lexan material needed to replace
> the windshield and door coverings on my '99 Mark 111?
> Thanks, Rw
Rw/Gang:
1/8 inch on the windshield and 1/16 on the doors.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | St Elmo, Alabama, Flyin |
Good Morning Gang:
My buddy, Dan Horton, and I flew Miss P'fer down to St Elmo,
south of Mobile, Alabama, for their 4th Annual Flyin,
yesterday. Got up at 0530 to a brisk temp of 25F. Stayed
right at 40F all the way down, aprx 200 miles. Dan wore a
snow machine suit, I dressed normally, with my secret
weapon, the Chilly Vest, to keep me warm. Never put my
gloves on the entire day.
When we took off from Wetumpka, Alabama, Airport, Miss P'fer
had 150 lbs of fuel (25 gal), 205 lbs of Dan, 185 lbs of me,
630 lbs of Miss P'fer, and about 25 lbs of extraneous junk
on board. GW at takeoff was 1,195 lbs. We climbed out at
1,000 FPM, cruised at 85 mph at 5200 rpm. Not bad for a
"fat" two place ultralight, 10 yrs old with almost 1,700
hours on her.
Had a good turn out for the flyin, good food, and lots of
questions to ask and answer. Was a good primer for
Lakeland.
I told Dan, as we were flying down, after all these years of
building and flying little airplanes, that I was still
amazed to be able to do what we were doing. To be able to
have a box of straight tubes delivered to the house, spend a
year or so in the basement measuring, cutting, drilling,
riveting, bending, cussing, scratching my head; then to be
able to experience flight on a beautiful Sunday morning with
my friends, to be able to fly almost anywhere I choose, is
truely a miracle. I think we Americans are blessed to be
able to have the freedom of flight that we enjoy in the
United States. Others only wish that they could do the
same.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F |
You're on. My cell phone # is 1-760-567-7918.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <SGreenpg(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
>
> In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes:
>
>
> >
> > You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone
needs
> > to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much until
> > early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell
ph.
> > #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those little
> > radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas.
> > Time to start planning!
> > ...Richard Swiderski
> >
>
> Richard,
> If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your
trailer
> Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to
get
> an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store and
> buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking about
6:30
> pm?
>
> What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on us?
> Jim and Dondi too!
>
> Steven Green
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> I am about to break in my new Zanzottera MZ201 engine on Firefly 052. They
> say Castrol TTS
> oil only, but that is EXPENSIVE stuff.
> Andy
Andy/Gang:
I am a firm believer that the engineers that design a
particular engine know far more about that engine and about
what it needs than I do. When you divert from their
recommendations, then you become the engineer. Some of you
may be qualified for this important job, since aerial flight
is involved, but I kinda doubt it......................
Recommend, should you have a question to deviate from the
operators manual, that you direct the question to the
experts at the factory.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F |
Kolbers,
1st of all, is anyone else having trouble with the Kolb-List?
Apparently the List gets some but not all of my posts and, apparently I get
some but not all of the Lists posts. I did not get Steve Green's letter
that John H quoted from below, and the List did not get one of my 2 letters
that I sent out last night (the one about the cookout, which I will re send
& attach below John's). My computer shows both in the "Sent" box. See
bottom of page for my Cookout Thoughts. ...RS
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
>
> SGreenpg(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes:
> >
> > >
> > > You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone
needs
> > > to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much until
> > > early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell
ph.
> > > #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those
little
> > > radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas.
> > > Time to start planning!
> > > ...Richard Swiderski
> > >
> >
> > Richard,
> > If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your
trailer
> > Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to
get
> > an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store
and
> > buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking about
6:30
> > pm?
> >
> > What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on
us?
> > Jim and Dondi too!
> >
> > Steven Green
>
> Steven/Richard/Gents/
>
> Think the above is a good idea.
>
> Keep in mind, evening flight period will not be over until
> sundown or a little earlier. Based on the last few years,
> if it is not windy, the powered parachutes will get the last
> flight period, so, the fixed wing ultralights and
> lightplanes will probably be finished up around 7:00 PM.
>
> I also recommend the Kolb crew and the Millers be invited.
>
> Getting excited about getting together with the Kolb List at
> Lakeland. Only two weeks from today. Hope we a blessed
> with good weather for the entire week.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
Kolbers,
No official location has been decided for the Sunday Cookout, soooo,
here's my proposal: I am providing my enclosed trailer with 16ft X 8ft of
shade or rainproofing. I'll have 2 BBQ grills, a 2 burner stove, a
corn-cooker stove, pots & pans, paper plates & utinsils, a sink, generic
cooking spices, 2 coolers of ice, water, several tables, some extra chairs,
& hopefully a view of the airshow.
I am not a cook. If somebody wants to organize the food end I will be
happy to be a helper. My Suburban is available if anyone wants to do a food
run. Otherwise, here's the deal: I'll bring my grub & a little more & will
anxiously await any company to come by & share supper & Kolb Talk Sunday
between 5-11PM.
Bring your own grub to cook or dish to share, extra chair, story to tell
& we'll have stone soup & enjoy what ever happens with who ever shows up.
Anyone who wants to come a little early to help set up would be appreciated.
Lord willing & if the creeks don't rise, I'll pull in about 6AM
Saturday. I'll try to find a spot in the NE corner of the UL TRAILER
parking field, which is immediately south & adjacent to the UL Camping Area,
both of which are immediately east of Paradise City. The Suburban is an '84
Red & Silver diesel. The trailer is White with Green trim & a burgandy RV
awning on right side, twin axle.
I'll do my best to minitor channel 4-4 on FMS & GMRS radio. Cell phone
# is 352-598-4064.
Please feel free to come by any time Sat-Wed if you need some shade or a
place to rest. If I'm not around, make yourself at home.
Pilots flying in: If you need to do a supply run, my truck is
available. I'll bring some empty gas cans & a Mr. Funnel, a case of Pensoil
Aircooled Oil that I need to get rid of, & some tools.
...Richard Swiderski
PS: John H, how about if you officially invite the Kolb Team & our fabric
friends, the Dondi's? Steve G, if you coordinate your signup list idea,
I'll help anyway I can. Anyone else who wants to jump in & help with
cookout, please don't be shy! Maybe I can come up with a way to put a tarp
on the other side of the trailer, could use some help putting setting it up.
Larry B., for the last 5 years, the only significant problem with bugs are
the ants. They must be spraying real good before hand for the airborne
insects.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Shellberg" <shelfarm(at)netins.net> |
Subject: | Original Firestar |
Hi, listers! I have a bud without a 'puter who purchased an
Original Firestar - kit was purchased from Kolb in early 1990 and has 5
rib wing with 377 rotax. He would like to know what the gross weight is
for this model. Does anyone remember the number? Thanks, Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Andrew Gassmann <agassmann(at)earthlink.net> |
John,
They do say to stick with whatever oil you use, not to flip back and forth,
but they recommended the Castrol TTS. I will listen to all the super
advice this list has.
Thanks for the input.
Andy
>
>
> > I am about to break in my new Zanzottera MZ201 engine on Firefly 052. They
> > say Castrol TTS
> > oil only, but that is EXPENSIVE stuff.
>
> > Andy
>
>Andy/Gang:
>
>I am a firm believer that the engineers that design a
>particular engine know far more about that engine and about
>what it needs than I do. When you divert from their
>recommendations, then you become the engineer. Some of you
>may be qualified for this important job, since aerial flight
>is involved, but I kinda doubt it......................
>
>Recommend, should you have a question to deviate from the
>operators manual, that you direct the question to the
>experts at the factory.
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | beauford <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Subject: | Look,my beautiful girl friend |
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
multipart/alternative
text/html
audio/x-wav
application/octet-stream
--- StripMime Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting
---
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F |
Channel 4, Sub 4 it is. Count me in. Have truck/can travel, let me know how I can
help.
Duane the Plane, Tallahassee, FL, FireFly 447 / Mk3 Classic 912
From: John Hauck
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
SGreenpg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes:
>
> >
> > You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone needs
> > to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much until
> > early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell ph.
> > #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those little
> > radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas.
> > Time to start planning!
> > ...Richard Swiderski
> >
>
> Richard,
> If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your trailer
> Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to get
> an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store
and
> buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking about 6:30
> pm?
>
> What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on us?
> Jim and Dondi too!
>
> Steven Green
Steven/Richard/Gents/
Think the above is a good idea.
Keep in mind, evening flight period will not be over until
sundown or a little earlier. Based on the last few years,
if it is not windy, the powered parachutes will get the last
flight period, so, the fixed wing ultralights and
lightplanes will probably be finished up around 7:00 PM.
I also recommend the Kolb crew and the Millers be invited.
Getting excited about getting together with the Kolb List at
Lakeland. Only two weeks from today. Hope we a blessed
with good weather for the entire week.
Take care,
john h
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Re: Look,my beautiful girl friend |
Subject: Kolb-List: Look,my beautiful girl friend
> A message with no text/plain section was received.
> The entire body of the message was removed. Please
> resend the email using plaintext formatting
Holy Smokes... with a subject line like that.........................be SURE
to resend so we can all get this!
Jon
in Green Bay where it is COLD!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Looking for Kolb switch |
I am now trying to finish up with my MK3 electrical system and have run into a
small problem. I made a spiffy little panel that fits right over the rudder cable
fairleads located between the seats at the front of the aileron control tube.
One switch has been mounted in the panel and I now find that I don't have
one like it to mount on the other half of the panel. The switch I need is a low
profile, 3 amp toggle switch with wires coming out of it. They used to be supplied
as standard equipment in Old Kolb kits but I can't find them anywhere in
my area. I have tried Radio Shack and the local auto parts stores with no luck.
They may no longer be in production. If any of you builders have one in your
spare parts stash I will be pleased to pay for the part and postage.
I will try New Kolb in the morning but I'm afraid they won't have them.
Duane Mitchell
6551 Crooked Creek Rd
Tallahassee, FL 32311
(850) 878-9047
----- Original Message -----
From: H MITCHELL
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
Channel 4, Sub 4 it is. Count me in. Have truck/can travel, let me know h
ow I can help.
Duane the Plane, Tallahassee, FL, FireFly 447 / Mk3 Classic 912
From: John Hauck
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
SGreenpg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes:
>
> >
> > You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone
needs
> > to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much unti
l
> > early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell
ph.
> > #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those lit
tle
> > radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas.
> > Time to start planning!
> > ...Richard Swiderski
> >
>
> Richard,
> If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your tr
ailer
> Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to
get
> an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store
and
> buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking abou
t 6:30
> pm?
>
> What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on u
s?
> Jim and Dondi too!
>
> Steven Green
Steven/Richard/Gents/
Think the above is a good idea.
Keep in mind, evening flight period will not be over until
sundown or a little earlier. Based on the last few years,
if it is not windy, the powered parachutes will get the last
flight period, so, the fixed wing ultralights and
lightplanes will probably be finished up around 7:00 PM.
I also recommend the Kolb crew and the Millers be invited.
Getting excited about getting together with the Kolb List at
Lakeland. Only two weeks from today. Hope we a blessed
with good weather for the entire week.
Take care,
john h
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Original Firestar |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
>
> Hi, listers! I have a bud without a 'puter who purchased an
> Original Firestar - kit was purchased from Kolb in early 1990 and
> has 5
> rib wing with 377 rotax. He would like to know what the gross weight
> is
> for this model. Does anyone remember the number? Thanks, Gary
Gary, the gross weight on the Original Firestar is 535 lbs. The empty
weight is 264 lbs.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F |
I will try to be there for the cookout, I volunter to help reduce the
weight of any and all containers of food and beverages. ( OK I will also
help out hwoever I can) Hopefully I can find this trailer location, I have
never been to SNF before so all the landmarks you guys are talking about are
greek to me. I do have a FSR radio so I will start crying for directions on
4-4. Hopefully see you then. If all goes well the Powersport RV-6A will
fly to SNF so I will be hanging around it for some of the time, and watching
the ultralights and shopping for parts the rest of the time.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F |
Kolbers,
No official location has been decided for the Sunday Cookout, soooo,
here's my proposal: I am providing my enclosed trailer with 16ft X 8ft of
shade or rainproofing. I'll have 2 BBQ grills, a 2 burner stove, a
corn-cooker stove, pots & pans, paper plates & utinsils, a sink, generic
cooking spices, 2 coolers of ice, water, several tables, some extra chairs,
& hopefully a view of the airshow.
I am not a cook. If somebody wants to organize the food end I will be
happy to be a helper. My Suburban is available if anyone wants to do a food
run. Otherwise, here's the deal: I'll bring my grub & a little more & will
anxiously await any company to come by & share supper & Kolb Talk Sunday
between 5-11PM.
Bring your own grub to cook or dish to share, extra chair, story to tell
& we'll have stone soup & enjoy what ever happens with who ever shows up.
Anyone who wants to come a little early to help set up would be appreciated.
Lord willing & if the creeks don't rise, I'll pull in about 6AM
Saturday. I'll try to find a spot in the NE corner of the UL TRAILER
parking field, which is immediately south & adjacent to the UL Camping Area,
both of which are immediately east of Paradise City. The Suburban is an '84
Red & Silver diesel. The trailer is White with Green trim & a burgandy RV
awning on right side, twin axle.
I'll do my best to minitor channel 4-4 on FMS & GMRS radio. Cell phone
# is 352-598-4064.
Please feel free to come by any time Sat-Wed if you need some shade or a
place to rest. If I'm not around, make yourself at home.
Pilots flying in: If you need to do a supply run, my truck is
available. I'll bring some empty gas cans & a Mr. Funnel, a case of Pensoil
Aircooled Oil that I need to get rid of, & some tools.
...Richard Swiderski
>
>
> Kolb gang,
>
> The cookout is on for 7pm Sunday Apr. 7 at S&F.
> The exact location is yet to be determined.
> The following people have volunteered to bring some necessary items:
> Duane-D-Plane and Gene L. Grill
> Beauford Grill (if Biglar can deliver
it)
> John Hauck Appetite
> Bob Griffin Appetite
> Steven Green Appetite
>
>
> S. Green
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
>
> Here we go with "pick on pore ol' Lar time" again. Actually, I was
serious
> when I wrote that.
Uncle Lar,
FWIW this will be my 5th year at Sun n Fun... I have never noticed a bug
problem.... I call it Sun-n-Burn cuz I often get the top of my head and
neck burned from the sun this time of year.... also maybe blisters on your
feet from LOTS of walking... and at the price of the sodas they sell (about
$3 a cup) I spike em up with hootch I smuggle in and then it feels 'right'
spending that price... and then the sun burn and blister pain fades... and
dont miss the Budweiser truck with free samples.. just get back in line cuz
those cups are awfully small.... just a little bigger than the $3 pepsi.....
if Im late to the cookout its only cuz my nap lasted too long by that time
of day... They have lots of those John Deere trams carrying people from one
area to another.. I can never find where to get on but I always seem them
unloading people... once was real scary when I almost fell in front of one
of those tractors... had trouble keeping a straight path following the line
on the side of the road... Ah.. the sights, sounds, and smells of past sun
n funs... hundreds of portable latrines lining the taxiways..... Look
forward to seeing everyone!
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb Mark 111 |
I am right in the middle of that project, and am using 1/8" for the
windshield, and 1/16" for the doors.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> Anyone have the thickness of Lexan material needed to replace
> the windshield and door coverings on my '99 Mark 111?
>Thanks, Rw
>
>
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: St Elmo, Alabama, Flyin |
John and Gang,
Glad that you had a nice time while visiting with us at ST. Elmo. I
apologize for not getting around to talking with you this time while you were
here. The fly in turned out to be a great success for us and I stayed
extremely busy through out the day and did not manage to do any flying myself
until late into the evening.
Ruff numbers for the fly in;
Young Eagles flown: 85
Planes that attended: 106
Most planes on the ground at one time: 87
Hamburgers served: over 400
Hot Dogs served: over 100
Estimated attendance: 600 Plus
Farthest Flown: 360 NM from Shreveport La.
These are estimates at this time. We do not have the final number yet. Our
fly in this year had double the planes and people that we have had in the
past. Had to go back for groceries two different times and bring in some
back up grills to cook on. While these are good problems to have, we
apologize for any inconvenience it may have caused to any body.
Looking forward to seeing you next time and possible at SNF or Oshkosh. I
will keep you posted as we plan our pancake breakfast later into the summer.
Jay Stevens
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com> |
Mr. 'Lar';
Having spent a reasonable portion of my life in the Florida mid-section,
mostly around Tampa, etc., and being somewhat familiar with the quality
as well as the quanitity of insects, both ground-bound and the aviator-type,
I have only one small caution to bring to your attention..........
They are V_E_R_Y___P_L_E_N_T_I_F_U_L and most are voracious
and many are the aptly named "No See 'Um" types. Having lived in other
parts for some time, and returning for a few years, I was never more pleased
to head to my "true home".
Recommendations: Take all the repellant you can carry, and all brands
too.
George Bass
USUA ID # 80399
USUA Club # 555
USUA Club # 770
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Subject: | Re: Looking for Kolb switch |
Duane and List,
Kolb has the switches you are referring to. Give them a call,
I'm sure Linda would be happy to ship one right out to you.
Guy Swenson
MKIII Xtra
----- Original Message -----
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Looking for Kolb switch
>
>
> I am now trying to finish up with my MK3 electrical system and have run i> nto
a small problem. I made a spiffy little panel that fits right over th> e rudder
cable fairleads located between the seats at the front of the ai> leron control
tube. One switch has been mounted in the panel and I now fi> nd that I don't
have one like it to mount on the other half of the panel.> The switch I
need is a low profile, 3 amp toggle switch with wires comin> g out of it. They
used to be supplied as standard equipment in Old Kolb k> its but I can't find
them anywhere in my area. I have tried Radio Shack a> nd the local auto parts
stores with no luck. They may no longer be in pro> duction. If any of you builders
have one in your spare parts stash I will> be pleased to pay for the part
and postage.
>
> I will try New Kolb in the morning but I'm afraid they won't have them.
>
> Duane Mitchell
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Awwww...............I'm sunk without a trace. I don't drink, (reformed alky
for 16+ yrs now; non-smoker for almost that long), and I'm fair haired and
skinned..............thin skinned too, so watch it, you guys. Kind of a
shame...........I sure usta enjoy a cold beer on a hot
day.............'specially with good B.S.'ing to go with it. Oh
well.........the price of purity ! ! ! That's a good thought about the sun,
and living in Palm Springs, it should've been the 1st thing I thought of.
Many Thanks ! ! ! Sun-burnable Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: mosquitoes
>
> >
> > Here we go with "pick on pore ol' Lar time" again. Actually, I was
> serious
> > when I wrote that.
>
> Uncle Lar,
>
> FWIW this will be my 5th year at Sun n Fun... I have never noticed a bug
> problem.... I call it Sun-n-Burn cuz I often get the top of my head and
> neck burned from the sun this time of year.... also maybe blisters on your
> feet from LOTS of walking... and at the price of the sodas they sell
(about
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
March 03, 2002 - March 25, 2002
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dm