Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dm

March 03, 2002 - March 25, 2002



      
      >
      >     A few years ago I was doing research and design of the Kline Fogleman
      > airfoil ( The Ultimate Paper Airplane). It was a regular airfoil but it
      had
      > a sharp step in the wing profile. This caused the airflow to stay on the
      > wing and improve the aerodynamics contrary to what you may have thought. I
      > am hoping for a similar situation with the wide squared off back design.
      > There is not a lot of room between the back of the fuselage and the prop
      > anyway so the turbulence created should be smoothed out by being forced
      > into the prop right away.
      >
      > >Nice.  I'm a little unsure about flow separation with the squared off
      end,
      > >but I do like that wingtip extension idea..................
      >
      >
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: tony webster <caw(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Re: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
you guys spend too much time on puter get out and fly before you forget how Larry Bourne wrote: > > Nothing ventured, nothing gained, Woody. Go for it ! ! ! > > Larry Bourne > Palm Springs, Ca. > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > http://www.gogittum.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> > To: > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! > > > > > A few years ago I was doing research and design of the Kline Fogleman > > airfoil ( The Ultimate Paper Airplane). It was a regular airfoil but it > had > > a sharp step in the wing profile. This caused the airflow to stay on the > > wing and improve the aerodynamics contrary to what you may have thought. I > > am hoping for a similar situation with the wide squared off back design. > > There is not a lot of room between the back of the fuselage and the prop > > anyway so the turbulence created should be smoothed out by being forced > > into the prop right away. > > > > >Nice. I'm a little unsure about flow separation with the squared off > end, > > >but I do like that wingtip extension idea.................. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: middle ground
-------Original Message------- From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Date: Saturday, March 02, 2002 17:38:56 Subject: Re: Kolb-List: middle ground > > I asked this question before and received no response. If you build > the > plane yourself, are you the manufacturer? > > Jim > Mark III > Charlotte, NC Jim, This is one good thing about the SP proposal, in that all planes can be repaired by their owners by taking a 16 hour course. I would like to amend the SP by saying we can repair our own planes without a 16 hour course if we can prove 51% build. I asked this question to the EAA some time back and this is the answer I got from them. It seems that there will be no changes to the repairman rules so we can work on out planes if we are under the 50% rule. "Your Kolb is an experimental/amateur-built aircraft. This will remain the same regardless of what license privileges you wish to operate under. Your repairman certificate will not be effected by the new rule, as the regulations concerning amateur-built aircraft are not changed in any way by the sport pilot/light sport aircraft (LSA) proposal". Ron Payne _- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: What is a legal ultralight?
Ralph, Yes, an ultralight can cruise faster than 63 mph and stall at greater than 28 mph and still be a legal ultralight. The FAA knew it would be impractical to set hard physical limits for these speeds and so they set design criteria that will determine what is a legal ultralight. Yes, anyone can declare false values in a document and data falsification will not make your plane a legal ultralight. In the case of your example, if you are ramp checked and they put your undocumented experimental on the scales, the FAA fine can be $1,000. To over come the suspicion that I may have falsified the data in my document, I asked a certified A&P to look the document over and to sign and date it, and to initial each page. I carry a copy of the document in the FireFly. The owner has to prove that what he is flying without an N number is a legal ultralight, and putting together this document and carrying it with the vehicle is only way one has to do this. It takes some time to do, but I do not worry about being ramp checked, and I have the satisfaction of knowing the FireFly does meet all legal requirements. Please pull up: http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/fireflylegal.html If you would like a Microsoft Word copy of the document you can download a copy at the end of the above html. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO > >Jack, > >I don't mean to pursue this legal ultralight issue, but are you saying >that I can have an ultralight that flies faster than 63 mph and what's >filled out in the paperwork and be legal? This means I can write in 254 >lbs and the actual weight may be 15 more pounds. I knew there was a way >around this Sport Pilot thing. > >Ralph Burlingame >Original Firestar >15 years flying it Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available! To cold to build in an unheated hanger. When spring has sprung I will be back in the hanger and flying this summer. > >you guys spend too much time on puter get out and fly before you forget how > >Larry Bourne wrote: > > > > > Nothing ventured, nothing gained, Woody. Go for it ! ! ! > > > > Larry Bourne > > Palm Springs, Ca. > > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > > http://www.gogittum.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> > > To: > > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! > > > > > > > > A few years ago I was doing research and design of the Kline Fogleman > > > airfoil ( The Ultimate Paper Airplane). It was a regular airfoil but it > > had > > > a sharp step in the wing profile. This caused the airflow to stay on the > > > wing and improve the aerodynamics contrary to what you may have > thought. I > > > am hoping for a similar situation with the wide squared off back design. > > > There is not a lot of room between the back of the fuselage and the prop > > > anyway so the turbulence created should be smoothed out by being forced > > > into the prop right away. > > > > > > >Nice. I'm a little unsure about flow separation with the squared off > > end, > > > >but I do like that wingtip extension idea.................. > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Hauck" <jimh474(at)nettally.com>
Subject: Re: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
Date: Mar 03, 2002
Woody; Looking at the pics of your wing and didn't see any diagonal bracing from the main spar to the leading edge. You may have it , but didn't show up in the pic's. If you don't it is highly reccommended to have that bracing. I also noticed that you have rather large un-supported bays in your ribs. Jim Hauck ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! > > To cold to build in an unheated hanger. When spring has sprung I will be > back in the hanger and flying this summer. > > > > > >you guys spend too much time on puter get out and fly before you forget how > > > >Larry Bourne wrote: > > > > > > > > Nothing ventured, nothing gained, Woody. Go for it ! ! ! > > > > > > Larry Bourne > > > Palm Springs, Ca. > > > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > > > http://www.gogittum.com > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> > > > To: > > > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Woody ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! > > > > > > > > > > > A few years ago I was doing research and design of the Kline Fogleman > > > > airfoil ( The Ultimate Paper Airplane). It was a regular airfoil but it > > > had > > > > a sharp step in the wing profile. This caused the airflow to stay on the > > > > wing and improve the aerodynamics contrary to what you may have > > thought. I > > > > am hoping for a similar situation with the wide squared off back design. > > > > There is not a lot of room between the back of the fuselage and the prop > > > > anyway so the turbulence created should be smoothed out by being forced > > > > into the prop right away. > > > > > > > > >Nice. I'm a little unsure about flow separation with the squared off > > > end, > > > > >but I do like that wingtip extension idea.................. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 03, 2002
I just posted 3 pics of the broken input shaft on my re-drive to photoshare. Hope they come thru..........posted that pic of the twin prop Kolb last night, and still hasn't shown. Can't remember if the text goes thru with the pics, so.................. It did this on the 1st full power run-up. Twisted that shaft off like a piece of cheese. When he received the broken parts, the mfr called me and said he had no idea of why it broke like that. He tested it, and said it was the good steel all right, ( a few were built with hot rolled ) and tested to Rockwell 60. Shaft is 5/8". He says he'll make the new one 3/4", and harden it to R45..........maybe 60 was too brittle, like a file. I dunno..............I'm having a little (??) problem with confidence in the thing now, and that may be part of the reason I'm having so much trouble getting back to work on the project. Haven't touched it since the 1st part of December, and the weather's perfect. Come on, Lar..............giddy-up go ! ! ! Depressed Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: middle ground
> The second thing I have a problem with is the FAA initial inspection. Why > should I have to pay a government employee $300-$400 for an inspection of > my plane? Is this a scam or what? > Ralph Burlingame Ralph/Gang: It seems to me that you are trying your hardest to find fault with the Sport Pilot thing. Why don't you try looking for some of the good in it? If you want to fly an ultralight that complies with Part 103, build one. However, I don't think it is fair to rap the government because you did not comply with the reg. Now you want them to rewrite the reg to make your airplane legal. Again, it is time to face reality. BTW: The FAA does not charge you one red cent to inspect your airplane. If you get a "FAA designee" to inspect it, then you are gonna have to shell out some money. The advantage of using a designee is you can usually get one to come do the inspection in a matter of days, rather than wait on an FAA inspector to come when he gets time. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: middle ground
> If you build the > plane yourself, are you the manufacturer? > > Jim Jim/Gang: Yes. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/02/02
From: "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com>
Guys, Jack is 100% correct. Fill out AC 103-7 Appendices 1 through 4 and if you make the parameters listed you have a legal ultralight. You have to stay at or below 254 lb., have the right wing area, power, etc. Apendices 1 to 4 are a method to certify complaince with 103 that does not require a flight test. The way the numbers work out it is possible to build an ultralight that is a bit fast, but your stall speed and mass will still be low. Larry the Micro Mong guy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: engine starter
Date: Mar 03, 2002
I have a starter for sale that I used on my 447. Excellent condition. It is one that lets you keep your pull starter. Will send pictures. Reasonable! L Cottrell 541 883 1294 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net>
Subject: Re: middle ground
Date: Mar 03, 2002
Jim, The answer to your question is YES you are the Manufacturer!!!! If you register your MKIII as an "Experimental Amateur Built, you can also be issued a repairman certificate without any classes.(Just need to prove you built it) There are a lot of people on this list who just can't seem to grasp the fact that this sport pilot proposal is in addition to what already exists, as it applies to the certification of aircraft. Hope this helps. Guy Swenson MKIII Xtra 3053B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: middle ground > > I asked this question before and received no response. If you build the > plane yourself, are you the manufacturer? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
Subject: [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Larry Bourne Subject: Twin Prop Kolb http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.03.03.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
Subject: [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Larry Bourne Subject: Broken Reduction Drive http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.03.03.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
Subject: [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Larry Bourne Subject: Broken Reduction Drive http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.03.04.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: bracing
> Woody, I think what Jim H is referring to are the (two on mine) > leading edge diagonals. -definitely a good idea and an easy job. -BB Bob/Gang: Good diagonal bracing of the leading edge of the wing is not "definitely a good idea", it is imperative if you want the wing to stay together. The Firestar does not fly when the leading edges fail, and I doubt any of Homer's other designs do either. The leading edge bracing keeps those little rib noses in column, bracing them from lateral movement. Might take a look at the nose rib bracing of each individual main rib, since both the top and bottom of the rib is already bent out of column. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
Subject: Re: Sport Pilot repair
Date: Mar 03, 2002
03/03/2002 06:35:02 PM Ralph and others: I continue to see misstatements regarding Sport Pilot, as below: This is one good thing about the SP proposal, in that all planes can be repaired by their owners by taking a 16 hour course. I would like to amend the SP by saying we can repair our own planes without a 16 hour course if we can prove 51% build. After reading the NPRM and talking to the lead FAA rep (Sue Gardener), I can assure you the above statement is not true. You will NOT need a 16 hr course to work on your plane after it is registered as an experimental light-sport aircraft. You will only need the 16 hr course if you wish to do your own annual inspection. Lets keep the facts straight! Regards, Erich Weaver erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100 Santa Barbara, California 93117 Tel: 805-964-6010 fax: 805-964 0259 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: bracing
You guys scared me for awhile. I read through the plans and found the 2 diagonals on the inboard end that I hope you are referring to. I was ready to burn a hole into the end of the wing to take a peek but luckily I found a photo showing the brace. If you look at the original photo I posted you will notice that the steel drag strut braces were not installed yet either. Had me goin there. I am not sure what you meant by the rib being bent out of column. I did straighten all the ribs before covering. John you have a good eye for detail. My wings have 8 ribs instead of 9 so there is a couple inches more between the ribs. There was a misunderstanding at Kolb and I was shorted a few pieces of 5/16 tube that weren't delivered It wasn't really worth the freight charges so I made the decision to go with one rib less. > > > > Woody, I think what Jim H is referring to are the (two on mine) > > leading edge diagonals. -definitely a good idea and an easy job. > -BB > >Bob/Gang: > >Good diagonal bracing of the leading edge of the wing is not >"definitely a good idea", it is imperative if you want the >wing to stay together. The Firestar does not fly when the >leading edges fail, and I doubt any of Homer's other designs >do either. > >The leading edge bracing keeps those little rib noses in >column, bracing them from lateral movement. > >Might take a look at the nose rib bracing of each individual >main rib, since both the top and bottom of the rib is >already bent out of column. > >Take care, > >john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: engine starter
Will it fit a 582? > I have a starter for sale that I used on my 447. Excellent condition. It >is one that lets you keep your pull starter. Will send pictures. Reasonable! >L Cottrell >541 883 1294 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: bracing
> I am not sure what you meant by the rib being bent out of column. Woody Woody: I was interested in the rib tubing of the rib noses. Top and bottom tubes are bent (to get the shape you desire) which also means that the straight tube is bent out of column. An observation on Brother Jim's and my part hinted that there may not be sufficient bracing in the nose portion of the rib. Jim also indicated that more bracing may be required for the aft portion of the ribs. Just a personal observation on my part. I can not give you an engineering explanation. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: Re: engine starter
Date: Mar 03, 2002
The guy that I tried to sell it to had it on one. He just didn't have any money.:-/ I will send you a pic. and if you need any measurements I can do that tomorrow. Larry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: engine starter > > Will it fit a 582? > > > > I have a starter for sale that I used on my 447. Excellent condition. It > >is one that lets you keep your pull starter. Will send pictures. Reasonable! > >L Cottrell > >541 883 1294 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Lar, Sorry to hear of your broken shaft, and now your questionable confidence in it. It was Mudville up here for me today too. I had a heck of a time with what shoulda been simple finishing up on aileron repair. I kept putting in rivets that would not pull snug -- ended up having a pulled rivet in just the top piece and maybe a widened hole in the bottom piece, so had to go back and make both over again! Went to my local Ace Hardware "and Aircraft Supply" store -- got some of their 1/4" long rivets and they were just a snitch longer than the batch I had been using. This solved the problem, but my patience was pretty thinned out. Then, to top that off, I moved the fuselage out into the driveway for a final cleaning before priming all the bare steel areas ...I found a crack in the main bulkhead diagonal (the tube that goes up to the wing spar carry-thru). The diagonal had been bent in the blow-over, and straightened by the aircraft welder I took it to two years ago. I only found the crack after getting the old epoxy paint entirely cleaned out of a weldment, and it needed a magnifying glass to be sure. Needless to say, I am muttering and feeling low. Expecting this wknd to finish out with two completed ailerons and a painted cage, I have one finished aileron, a lot of butchered aluminum, and a cage that again needs some steel repair work. On the up side, I'm glad to have found the crack now, instead of it finding me later. Well, hopefully misery loves a little company, -Ben "once again considering golf" Ransom ===== http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom http://sports.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: bracing
Still not sure what you mean by the straight tube bent out of colume ( do you mean the bottom rib tube?). as it is I have the same amount of bracing in the nose as the original ribs. It is a bit of a moot point now anyway. The wings are covered and primed and I am hesitant to tear it apart and start making improvements that may not be critical. The original wing is overbuilt to start with. While I did lose one rib I also shortened the span a foot and a half so the rib spacing is about the same. Hopefully the fabric will also add some reenforcement to the nose area. It may be to late to change but I appreciate your insights, I wish I would have posted the photos earlier. >I was interested in the rib tubing of the rib noses. Top >and bottom tubes are bent (to get the shape you desire) >which also means that the straight tube is bent out of >column. An observation on Brother Jim's and my part hinted >that there may not be sufficient bracing in the nose portion >of the rib. Jim also indicated that more bracing may be >required for the aft portion of the ribs. Just a personal >observation on my part. I can not give you an engineering >explanation. > >john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: 912 question
have an opportunity to purchase a 912 bought in 1992 with 300 hrs run time on it now. Is there any problem areas I should know about or things to check before I commit my money? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ian Heritch" <iheritch(at)revelgroup.com>
Subject: 912 question
Date: Mar 04, 2002
Check the Rotax web site for all the service bulletins. That will give you an idea of what should have been done, or what will need to be done. There are a lot of them. Ian Heritch 912 Slingshot -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Woody Subject: Kolb-List: 912 question have an opportunity to purchase a 912 bought in 1992 with 300 hrs run time on it now. Is there any problem areas I should know about or things to check before I commit my money? = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/02/02
Date: Mar 04, 2002
Thank you Ralph for saying exactly what I was thinking but lacked the words to express it so eloquently. Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/01/02
Date: Mar 04, 2002
jerryb and others interested in water based paint; I used water borne covering and paint on my Kolb and love it. I wouldn't use anything else now that I have tried it. If you have any questions, contact me directly. Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 2002
Subject: Re: engine starter
From: Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
If it will fit a 503, Im interested. Who is the manufacturer and what is the model number? > From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 18:15:58 -0500 > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: engine starter > > > Will it fit a 582? > > >> I have a starter for sale that I used on my 447. Excellent condition. It >> is one that lets you keep your pull starter. Will send pictures. Reasonable! >> L Cottrell >> 541 883 1294 >> >> > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 04, 2002
Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you work thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take pride in it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! ! It's hard to start all over on a major component - not just the money - but psychological as well. As you well know. You're very lucky to have caught that crack when you did...........that could be nasty, and very easy to miss. I wonder where you found that line about "Ace Hardware & Aircraft Supply ??" The owner of the local branch got a great charge out of that. Sad story, but all too familiar these days................Lowes opened a huge center a mile or so up the street 6 or 10 months ago.............yesterday I went by Ace ( rather support local little guys, even if a few cents more ) and they have big "going out of business" signs in the windows. Sad day in Mudville. Good luck on yours. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > Lar, > Sorry to hear of your broken shaft, and now your questionable > confidence in it. It was Mudville up here for me today too. I had a > heck of a time with what shoulda been simple finishing up on aileron > repair. I kept putting in rivets that would not pull snug -- ended up > having a pulled rivet in just the top piece and maybe a widened hole in > the bottom piece, so had to go back and make both over again! Went to > my local Ace Hardware "and Aircraft Supply" store -- got some of their > 1/4" long rivets and they were just a snitch longer than the batch I > had been using. This solved the problem, but my patience was pretty > thinned out. > > Then, to top that off, I moved the fuselage out into the driveway for a > final cleaning before priming all the bare steel areas ...I found a > crack in the main bulkhead diagonal (the tube that goes up to the wing > spar carry-thru). The diagonal had been bent in the blow-over, and > straightened by the aircraft welder I took it to two years ago. I only > found the crack after getting the old epoxy paint entirely cleaned out > of a weldment, and it needed a magnifying glass to be sure. Needless > to say, I am muttering and feeling low. Expecting this wknd to finish > out with two completed ailerons and a painted cage, I have one finished > aileron, a lot of butchered aluminum, and a cage that again needs some > steel repair work. On the up side, I'm glad to have found the crack > now, instead of it finding me later. Well, hopefully misery loves a > little company, > > -Ben "once again considering golf" Ransom > > ===== > http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom > > http://sports.yahoo.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Dearest Larry My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive. May you pick up the pieces and carry on. I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an internal vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect that little shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine starting up but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken not twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle? > >Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you work >thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take pride in >it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! ! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 912 question
> have an opportunity to purchase a 912 bought in 1992 with 300 hrs run > time on it now. Is there any problem areas I should know about or things to > check before I commit my money? Woody/Gang: Don't have time to give you a proper answer now. Back copy or call me, 334-567-6280, and we will discuss the 912 issues. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 04, 2002
Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite possibility, that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60, as in the 1st one. Kind of like the difference between Grade 8 bolts, and AN spec, maybe. We'll see. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > > Dearest Larry > My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive. May you > pick up the pieces and carry on. > I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an internal > vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect that little > shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine starting up > but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken not > twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle? > > > > > >Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you work > >thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take pride in > >it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! ! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
> Nope, no vibration damper. Larry Bourne Big Lar/Gang: How do they get away without utilizing a torsional vibration dampner? Most every application has them except lawn mowers and maybe weed eaters. :-) john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Lar, What type of prop are you running? I know on the VW, they curse you if your run a compose prop on a VW direct drive. Check with the compose prop manufacturers. Will break the cranks in no time. I suspect your running into something similar. You may have to run a wood prop if your not. I don't think hardening is the issue, its the spiked power pulses thus you may find you need some form of dampener. What I understand is happening is your actually twisting the drive shaft (crank) a little with each power pulse. There was a warning about this in the EAA Experimenter some time back. jerryb > >Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite possibility, >that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60, as in >the 1st one. Kind of like the difference between Grade 8 bolts, and AN >spec, maybe. We'll see. > >Larry Bourne >Palm Springs, Ca. >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" >http://www.gogittum.com > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> >To: >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > > > > > > > Dearest Larry > > My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive. May you > > pick up the pieces and carry on. > > I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an internal > > vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect that little > > shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine starting up > > but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken not > > twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle? > > > > > > > > > >Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you work > > >thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take pride in > > >it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! ! > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
> See if he can bump that up to a 1" shaft while he is at it. Swinging a prop is quite a gyroscopic load and there is no substitute for extra beef in a part like that. >Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite possibility, >that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60, as in >the 1st one. Kind of like the difference between Grade 8 bolts, and AN >spec, maybe. We'll see. > >Larry Bourne >Palm Springs, Ca. >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" >http://www.gogittum.com > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> >To: >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > > > > > > > Dearest Larry > > My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive. May you > > pick up the pieces and carry on. > > I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an internal > > vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect that little > > shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine starting up > > but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken not > > twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle? > > > > > > > > > >Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you work > > >thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take pride in > > >it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! ! > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 04, 2002
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
> See if he can bump that up to a 1" shaft while he is at it. > Swinging a > prop is quite a gyroscopic load and there is no substitute for extra > beef > in a part like that. Even tho I know nothing about Lar's setup (except that it's obviously got a good deal of power ...oh, and it provides us with all kinds of fun here :/ ), I disagree with 'just make it bigger'. If there is a tortional shock problem that easily snaps a shaft in early runup tests, it is a good time to thoroughly consider possible sources and reason for the unexpected load. e.g., a bigger shaft might just end up with something else breaking, like the crank, motor mounts, prop, whatever. -Ben > > > >Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite > possibility, > >that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60, > as in > >the 1st one. Kind of like the difference between Grade 8 bolts, and > AN > >spec, maybe. We'll see. > > > >Larry Bourne > >Palm Springs, Ca. > >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > >http://www.gogittum.com > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> > >To: > >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > > > > > > > > > > > > Dearest Larry > > > My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive. > May you > > > pick up the pieces and carry on. > > > I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an > internal > > > vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect > that little > > > shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine > starting up > > > but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken > not > > > twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; > you work > > > >thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take > pride in > > > >it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! > ! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ===== http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 04, 2002
Got home from work about 10 minutes ago, and there was a message from him on the answering machine.............he says he finished up the parts today, ('bout time ! ! ! ) and shipped them. He said to take a look at them when they get here, then call him, but DON'T assemble them till I talk to him. We'll see what they look like, and what he has to say. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > > > Nope, no vibration damper. > Larry Bourne > > Big Lar/Gang: > > How do they get away without utilizing a torsional vibration > dampner? Most every application has them except lawn mowers > and maybe weed eaters. :-) > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 05, 2002
Great minds run in the same circles..............that was the 1st thing I said to him. He says he can't go larger cause of the bearing size limitation. I said, to heck with bearing sizes..........make 'em bigger. Says he can't. I dunno. We'll see when the parts get here. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > > > > See if he can bump that up to a 1" shaft while he is at it. Swinging a > prop is quite a gyroscopic load and there is no substitute for extra beef > in a part like that. > > > >Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite possibility, > >that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60, as in ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 05, 2002
I'm not absolutely certain, but my understanding is that most, or all, of the scare stories about VW's comes from people putting props on the end of the old cast crankshafts. (direct drive) They break. Apparently forged steel cranks - like mine - are pretty much immune. The re-drive totally eliminates that possibility, anyway...............if I can only keep the #%$&$ re-drive from breaking. There's a lot of old wives' tales, and urban legend type of stuff about the VW's...............sometimes it's hard to separate the wheat from the chaff. I even read an article in Experimenter not too long ago about Pietenpols, that said it was great to use the direct drive Corvair engine, but to stay away from the direct drive VW...........it's too heavy. (???) Same article says 65 -75 hp is ideal for Piets. Go figure. I try to keep in mind that it's a 4 cylinder, flat, air cooled motor that will obey the same laws as any other..............including Lycoming & Conitinental. I dunno, maybe I'm in for a rude awakening. My own gut feeling is that the R60 tempering was too brittle. We'll see. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > Lar, > What type of prop are you running? I know on the VW, they curse you if > your run a compose prop on a VW direct drive. Check with the compose prop > manufacturers. Will break the cranks in no time. I suspect your running > into something similar. You may have to run a wood prop if your not. I > don't think hardening is the issue, its the spiked power pulses thus you > may find you need some form of dampener. What I understand is happening is > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 05, 2002
Forgot to answer your question........it's a Warp Drive. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > Lar, > What type of prop are you running? I know on the VW, they curse you if > your run a compose prop on a VW direct drive. Check with the compose prop > manufacturers. Will break the cranks in no time. I suspect your running > into something similar. You may have to run a wood prop if your not. I > don't think hardening is the issue, its the spiked power pulses thus you ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TCowan1917(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 05, 2002
Subject: inst.panel
If anyone out there is interested, I have a brand new kolb instrument panel with all guages and wire harness to engine, tagged and ready to install. Has ASI to 100, ALT, CHT/EGT with dual switch and harness leads, digital tach/time, timer, misc. switches and stuff. Will let someone have a real good deal. Purchased separately would be over $500. gonna make you a bargain. Also have a good used 447 complete with B box and a 377 with B box with only 130 hours on it. I never wear an engine out before I replace it. Saves landing gears and nurves. Ted Cowan. Alabama. 334-480-0822 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 05, 2002
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
From: Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
Lar... Warp Drive is a great prop...But it is also the heaviest of the bunch. I wouldn't be surprised if that is your problem. Not too long ago I was told by Great Plains that a composite prop would absolutely not work on a direct drive VW. I'm not sure if they get around that with the reduction drive. Ross > From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 00:39:32 -0800 > To: > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > > Forgot to answer your question........it's a Warp Drive. > > Larry Bourne > Palm Springs, Ca. > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > http://www.gogittum.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> > To: > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > >> >> Lar, >> What type of prop are you running? I know on the VW, they curse you if >> your run a compose prop on a VW direct drive. Check with the compose prop >> manufacturers. Will break the cranks in no time. I suspect your running >> into something similar. You may have to run a wood prop if your not. I >> don't think hardening is the issue, its the spiked power pulses thus you > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 05, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
I agree Ben but a 5/8 shaft seemed woefully undersized for the load. The best fix would be some kind of damper in the gear box but that would require a whole new reduction drive. >If there is a tortional shock problem that easily snaps a shaft in >early runup tests, it is a good time to thoroughly consider possible >sources and reason for the unexpected load. e.g., a bigger shaft might >just end up with something else breaking, like the crank, motor mounts, >prop, whatever. >-Ben ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 05, 2002
> I agree Ben but a 5/8 shaft seemed woefully undersized for the load. The > best fix would be some kind of damper in the gear box but that would > require a whole new reduction drive. If you are getting resonance then the size of the shaft is not important from a strength point of view. you will break something in the system no matter how strong you make it. what matters is the torsional stiffness of each component, and how those stiffnesses add up to result in the resonant frequency. The driving forces are the piston power and compression pulses, the prop pulses from spinning behind a wing and operating at an angle of attack, and pulses from the alternator and other accessories as well. if any of these pulses line up with the resonant frequency of any part of the drive system, and are of large enough magnitude to overcome the damping that the system has at that frequency then the system will start adding energy with each oscillation and the magnitude will grow until something breaks. because the driving frequencies are fairly high the magnitude grows fairly quickly and usually something breaks real fast... but occasionally if the damping is just slightly smaller then the amplitude of the input then it might take a long time and result in a fatigue type failure. If you are simply failing due to static loads, then making the shaft bigger will solve the problem, and making the shaft bigger will make it stiffer, changing the resonant frequencies of the system. but just guessing and go fly if it doesn't break after a few hours of ground running is a really risky way of doing this. (put less politely, how damn stupid are these people!) Math is not impossibly difficult. At the very least calculate the static loads in your system and size the shaft for a certain life expectancy. Get some help and calculate the torsional stiffness of each part in the drive and determine the resonant frequencies of the system. See if they line up with the frequencies of the driving functions. if they do you will absolutely need a damper in the system. the best place for the damper is at the accessory end of the engine, not the power side, so it wont interfere with your redrive. A vibration absorber in the redrive would be a great way to change the frequencies of the system but it sounds like your redrive supplier is not interested in doing that. you should be able to buy a pulley style damper that is appropriate for your SYSTEM and bolt it on to use as your accessory drive pulley. If your redrive supplier does not know all of this, then they are probably not capable of doing the engineering necessary to provide a reliable reduction drive. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 05, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Larry This was my concern with that reduction drive. When I was researching reduction drives I heard some reports of chain drive units amplifying harmonic problems. Seems like you have springs in your flex plate that will absorb some of the power pulses that engine produces but does it dampen enough? I think you need to dampen the harmonic vibrations enough that they don't get transmitted (at least greatly reduced) to the input shaft. My guess is the input shaft is plenty big enough to handle a smooth flow of power. If you just make the input shaft stronger you may transmit the vibrations to the crank shaft and break it. There are at least two ways you can reduce the amplitude of the harmonic vibration at the source. The best way is to put a flywheel on that engine. My reduction drive builder recommends 12+ pound flywheel. You could also reduce the compression ratio (I had mine set at 7.6 to 1) but you will get a power reduction. Julian Warren has a flywheel and a damper that uses rubber on his reduction drive. This may be enough but you guys are going to be test pilots so be careful. My $.02 worth Rick Neilsen Re drive VW powered MKIII >>> biglar(at)gogittum.com 03/04/02 04:42PM >>> Nope, no vibration damper. The brittle idea is a definite possibility, that's why he's going to harden the new part to R45, instead of R60, as in the 1st one. Kind of like the difference between Grade 8 bolts, and AN spec, maybe. We'll see. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > > Dearest Larry > My condolences on the recent loss off your beloved re-drive. May you > pick up the pieces and carry on. > I looked at the photos and was wondering if there was an internal > vibration damper in the gear box. It would be a lot to expect that little > shaft ( 5/8" ? ) to take all the stress from that big engine starting up > but more stressful - the shutting down. The shaft looked broken not > twisted. Could it have been to hard and brittle? > > > > > >Seems like it's the little things that give you un-ending fits; you work > >thru them one at a time, do everything as right as you can, take pride in > >it..............then something major breaks. What a pisser ! ! ! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 05, 2002
His new drives, such as the one Julian Warren bought, have a different mounting system, based on the Diehl drive case. They incorporate a damper. Unfortunately, mine doesn't have room for this.............the new ones are longer. He did build some of the earlier drives like mine, and apparently some of them are still flying. I'll ask him about that, too. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > > I agree Ben but a 5/8 shaft seemed woefully undersized for the load. > The > > best fix would be some kind of damper in the gear box but that would > > require a whole new reduction drive. > > If you are getting resonance then the size of the shaft is not important > from a strength point of view. you will break something in the system no > matter how strong you make it. what matters is the torsional stiffness of > each component, and how those stiffnesses add up to result in the resonant ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 05, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/01/02
In a message dated 3/4/02 11:53:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, vicw(at)vcn.com writes: > jerryb and others interested in water based paint; I used water borne > covering and paint on my Kolb and love it. I wouldn't use anything else > now > that I have tried it. If you have any questions, contact me directly. > > Vic > I used 3 colors of Urethane Latex based water paint on mine too, and am amazed at the flexibility and color retention on Firestar as well. the only problem, that I encountered is the stickiness of it to the old polytone which doesn't have a chance to stay on the plane when the zippered dohicky flaps over and contacts it...the polytone comes off and sticks to the latex. I have tried to raise the pieces with a knife blade and usually just paint over it with more latex, but that is a hassle and not a real good solution. But I am pleased with this Coronado latex with the exception of its too much flexibility. George Randolph....GeoR38 Akron Oh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Final Inspection Fee
Date: Mar 05, 2002
John Hauck wrote: (clip) << BTW: The FAA does not charge you one red cent to inspect your airplane. If you get a "FAA designee" to inspect it, then you are gonna have to shell out some money. The advantage of using a designee is you can usually get one to come do the inspection in a matter of days, rather than wait on an FAA inspector to come when he gets time. Take care, john h >> (end clip) Kolbers - This is one excellent example of the usefulness of the transportability of our Kolb airplanes. I'm nearly ready for the final FAA inspection for airworthiness certification of my Mark-3. I called the local FSDO to arrange this, and they told me that an inspection by the FAA would be free. But if I hired a DAR (designated airworthiness representative, the "FAA designee") to do the inspection, he could charge me up to a few hundred dollars. So, of course I'm wondering, why would anyone opt for having a DAR do the inspecton ($$$) rather than the FAA (free)? The answer is: availability. If you set up a meeting with a DAR, he will be at your specified location (airport) at your convenience. If you try to arrange this with the FAA guy, his priorities are mostly in other areas, and your meeting could be delayed for days or weeks, depending on the FAA guy's availability and workload. Inspecting homebuilts is low on their priority list. My solution: I will trailer my Kolb to the FAA office parking lot and assemble the airplane right there. Then have him inspect it. And I hope to save myself several hundred bucks by doing it that way. I'll let everybody know if it really turns out this way! Dennis Kirby Cedar Crest, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 05, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
If your redrive supplier does not know > all of this, then they are probably not capable of doing the engineering > necessary to provide a reliable reduction drive. > > Topher Topher/Gents: Agree whole heartedly. Would not want to be a test pilot for the redrive folks, especially after I had paid them for the redrive. Sometimes it is necessary to look real hard at something, then make a realistic decision based on facts and not on what we want to do or accomplish as an end product. Big Lar, it ain't worth risk to attempt flight in something that has not been proven in the air and has failed on the ground. Love ya like a Brother. Don't have that many good friends. They are getting scarcer than hen's teeth now days. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 05, 2002
Subject: Big Lar and Harmonic Vibration....
From: Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
Lar... Here is a web page that explains what causes harmonic vibration. Reading this, you can imagine how much damage could be done to a gear box if it is not dealt with properly. http://www.fluidampr.com/problem.html Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 05, 2002
> Larry, As you know, I too am modifying an auto engine for my Kolb (SlingShot). I have seriously researched this problem of tortional resonance and redrive over the last five years. A lot of good advice has been shared. This is what I have come to believe: Tortional resonance is a demon you can never get rid of. You can either tame it or shift it into an rpm range that you don't use. Direct drive or reduction doesn't matter, you still must deal with it. Springs do not work here. They do absorb it, but they also transmit most of it back into the system. Rubber both absorbs and dampens. I've heard some intelligent people say that the Hivo chains have a built in dampener because they have inheirant slack which causes the chain to be slung out by centripetal force & this in turn can absorb some of the pulses. Other respected men have told me this is not the case at all, so that aspect I don't have a sure opinion on. V-belts are great dampners because they slip a lot, but they are for that reason also among the least effecient ways to go. (Not to mention they put a high bending moment on the crankshaft... must be tight so as not to slip too much). Poly-V belts don't slip near as much but can still absorb pulses because they have a certain amount of stretch. Cog belts don't slip at all but also stretch & therefore have significant absorbing/dampening qualities. Gates PolyChain cog belts are made with Kevlar & they don't stretch at all & have little to no absorbing/dampening ability. Gears obviously do nothing here either. Direct drive is the same as well. Friction slip devices work partially but by definition, transmit all pulses while not slipping. None of the above by themselves have the ability to adequately absorb and dampen tortionals. A dampening device, preferably a rubber like material, is a must. And a heafty flywheel is worth its wt. in gold. Any notion that the weight/mass of the prop can replace the need for a flywheel is totally misplaced as the flywheel must be between the crank and the redrive or between the crank & prop if direct drive, to have any beneficial effect. As an aside, any redrive worth considering, must have an outboard bearing on the crank pulley/gear to eliminate any bending of the crank. This is what I have learned from people "Who have been there & broke that." ...Richard Swiderski ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com>
Subject: Cheap Bing 54 carbs
Date: Mar 05, 2002
I found this place that is selling Bing 54 carbs for $50. I ordered mine yesterday. I do not have any association with these folks and I wouldn't suggest ordering a carb until I get mine so I can report back. So much for the disclaimer. http://www.ktmworld.com/kbay.htm Scott Olendorf Original Firestar, Rotax 377 Schenectady, NY http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar/ "Reality is for those who lack imagination" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 05, 2002
I had a three blade warp drive on my Subaru ea 71 (direct drive) and it would get a bad vibration when pulling back on power before landing. I put a wood prop on, and it works great now . The wood prop was much lighter and I couldn't tell of any difference in thrust. Randy still flying the soobydoo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Carlisle" <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > Lar... > > Warp Drive is a great prop...But it is also the heaviest of the bunch. I > wouldn't be surprised if that is your problem. Not too long ago I was told > by Great Plains that a composite prop would absolutely not work on a direct > drive VW. I'm not sure if they get around that with the reduction drive. > > Ross > > > From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> > > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > > Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 00:39:32 -0800 > > To: > > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > > > > > Forgot to answer your question........it's a Warp Drive. > > > > Larry Bourne > > Palm Springs, Ca. > > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > > http://www.gogittum.com > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> > > To: > > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken Input Shaft > > > > > >> > >> Lar, > >> What type of prop are you running? I know on the VW, they curse you if > >> your run a compose prop on a VW direct drive. Check with the compose prop > >> manufacturers. Will break the cranks in no time. I suspect your running > >> into something similar. You may have to run a wood prop if your not. I > >> don't think hardening is the issue, its the spiked power pulses thus you > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 06, 2002
Subject: Re: Cheap Bing 54 carbs
In a message dated 3/5/02 10:09:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, solendor(at)nycap.rr.com writes: > I found this place that is selling Bing 54 carbs for $50. I ordered mine > yesterday. I do not have any association with these folks and I wouldn't > suggest ordering a carb until I get mine so I can report back. So much for > the disclaimer. > > Checked the site, they show a 38mm Bing 54. Don't we usually use a 36mm on a 503? Good price, though. By the way, I'm looking for a good, used, cheap 32mm Bing 54. I believe these may be used on a Rotax 277, 337, or 447. This for the Teledyne 32ci 4 stroke on the mobile test stand. Shack FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
Date: Mar 06, 2002
And a heafty flywheel is worth its wt. in gold. Any > notion that the weight/mass of the prop can replace the need for a flywheel > is totally misplaced as the flywheel must be between the crank and the > redrive or between the crank & prop if direct drive, to have any beneficial > effect. great post on all counts. A prop can be used as a flywheel if the link between it and the crank is very stiff, which your right it usually isn't so then putting a flywheel in between can be helpful. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 07, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: Broken Input Shaft
This is a issue that I have been wrestling with for years. Props do act as a flywheel to a point but they also flex and can cause serious harmonic vibration problems even when attached direct drive. My old direct drive VW had the flywheel on one end of the crank an the prop on the other. It would seem that having a flywheel on each end of the crank would be ideal. The problem is that props do flex with each power stroke and compression stroke and most nonwood props will break the crank shaft on direct drive VW engines. When I was looking for a reduction drive for a new VW engine I really wanted one that had the reduction drive on the flywheel end of the crank like BigLar's. The biggest problem was that BigLar's drive unit is built with a chain drive and this gets such mixed reviews. This unit also has a limited test history. The Gene Smith belt drive reduction unit that I'm using looks weak and attaches to the pulley end of the crank but they have a long testing history and it works. I did change to a powerfin prop and to some extent this makes me a test pilot. I really kicked this around for a while. I decided that a frail wood prop in a pusher was as much a risk as the potential for harmonic problems with this type of prop. I did choose a heavy flywheel, low compression engine, and a low mass prop to minimize harmonic problems but there is still a risk. We may have beat this issue to death but.... Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII >>> Tophera(at)centurytel.net 03/06/02 03:47PM >>> And a heafty flywheel is worth its wt. in gold. Any > notion that the weight/mass of the prop can replace the need for a flywheel > is totally misplaced as the flywheel must be between the crank and the > redrive or between the crank & prop if direct drive, to have any beneficial > effect. great post on all counts. A prop can be used as a flywheel if the link between it and the crank is very stiff, which your right it usually isn't so then putting a flywheel in between can be helpful. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: water based paint
Date: Mar 08, 2002
I have had so many request for information about my water based paint that I have decided to respond to the list. My apologies to those of you not interested in this subject. I used Aircraft Finishing Systems www.aircraftfinishing.com complete covering, UV protections and paint. I purchased my fabric from Millers because they had the lightweight fabric recommended for ultralights and could supply the correct amount of material. I also ordered the wing fabric rivets from them. I used two quarts of AFS glue, two quarts of AFS primer and 1 gallon of color to finish my Firestar. I used auto type graphics for my extra colors so you would need a quart or more of contrast color if you dicided to go the route. The cost of AFS paint is approximately the same as Aerothane however shipping is much less because it is shipped standard UPS since the AFS products are non flammable and don't require hazardous shipping charges. The AFS system consist of a water based "blue glue" that works like contact cement and works with regular Dacron fabric. After covering and shrinking the fabric, the fabric is sealed with diluted glue. Then the fabric is coated with a black UV protection (supplied by AFS). I sprayed on my UV coating but I understand it can be applied with a roller. Then the AFS finish coating in your choice of color is sprayed on or applied with a roller. I sprayed my finish coating but understand some have used a paint roller to apply the finish coat. I don't think I would recommend mixing systems. All of the AFS products are water diluted and do not have an offensive odor and do not contain harsh chemicals. The paint is a two part paint and an isocyanate catalyst is used. An isocyanate contains cyanide which is poisonous however when water is added to dilute the paint the excess cyanide is captured and therefore not sprayed into the air and a simple carbon breathing mask can be used when spraying. I have used Stitz and it is a worthwhile system however after using the AFS system I would not go back to the Stitz. Best of all the AFS paint dries to a nice shine. Remember, I live in Wyoming and I used the AFS system in the winter time in a garage heated with an open flame gas heater. I don't get a commission on AFS products but I think I will give them a call after this glowing endorsement. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Cheap Bing 54 carbs
Date: Mar 07, 2002
Good catch. I thought all Bing 54s were the same. Oh well. I'll see if I can use most of the parts. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: <HShack(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Cheap Bing 54 carbs > > In a message dated 3/5/02 10:09:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, > solendor(at)nycap.rr.com writes: > > > > I found this place that is selling Bing 54 carbs for $50. I ordered mine > > yesterday. I do not have any association with these folks and I wouldn't > > suggest ordering a carb until I get mine so I can report back. So much for > > the disclaimer. > > > > > > Checked the site, they show a 38mm Bing 54. Don't we usually use a 36mm on a > 503? Good price, though. > > By the way, I'm looking for a good, used, cheap 32mm Bing 54. I believe > these may be used on a Rotax 277, 337, or 447. This for the Teledyne 32ci 4 > stroke on the mobile test stand. > > Shack > FS I > SC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AV8REXP(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 08, 2002
Subject: Alabama Fly-In March 23
Hello All, EAA Chapter 1209, Saint Elmo AL. would like to exrend this open invatation to anyone interested in attending our fifth annual spring fly in. We are located in St. Elmo Al about seven miles from Mobile Regionial airport. All types of aircraft are welcome. Please see the attached flyer. Let us know if youo have any questions. Thank you, Jay Stevens ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2002
From: Tim Gherkins <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Where to shorten wing
Kolbers, I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the garage. Is it best to take the 6" out of the wing tip, or somewhere in the middle of the wing, and leave the wing tip alone? I remember reading that it was important to keep the wing tip to specifications on Kolbs, because it matters to the flight characteristics. Any advise? Tim Phx,AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AV8REXP(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 08, 2002
Subject: Alabama Fly-In March 23
Hello All, John H. informed me that the attachment did not come through to the Kolb list so I am including it in this e-mail. We hope that you can make it to our fly-in. Jay Experimental Aircraft Association Saint Elmo, AL. Chapter #1209 Spring Fly - In SATURDAY March 23, 2002 Saint Elmo, Alabama Airport ( 2R5 ) CTAF 122.9 7 miles south of Mobile AL Regional Airport Spot Landing Competition Young Eagles Flights Aircraft Peoples ChoiceAward 10 gallons GAS for aircraft flown farthest distance to Fly-In SATURDAY ------------- LUNCH - Hamburgers and Hot Dogs $5.00 donation SATURDAYNIGHT ----- Bonfire and Marsh MellowToasting. SUNDAYMORNING ------ FREE Continental Breakfast 7:00 - 9:00 am OVERNIGHTCAMPING ON FIELD Friday & Saturday Night - Transportation to area Motels provided RaffleTickets will be sold for: Framedsheet of =E2=80=9CClassic American Aircraft=E2=80=9D stamps. Split the Pot 50/50 drawing. (Drawing will be Saturday night. You do not have to be present to win ) Bring a lawn chair !!!! Information 251-865-4071 or 660-1130 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Where to shorten wing
If it was mine, I would shorten the main spar 6" at the outboard end, respace all the ribs outboard of the lift strut accordingly, and keep the wingtip shape and size to plans. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >Kolbers, >I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches >total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the >garage. > >Is it best to take the 6" out of the wing tip, or somewhere in the >middle of the wing, and leave the wing tip alone? > >I remember reading that it was important to keep the wing tip to >specifications on Kolbs, because it matters to the flight >characteristics. > >Any advise? >Tim >Phx,AZ > > >--- >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Where to shorten wing
Tim, I would take it out of the tip because it will preserve more of the wing lift profile and give you the lowest stall speed for the shortened wing. Anyway you go if you install vortex generators it will help too. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO > >Kolbers, >I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches >total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the >garage. Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Where to shorten wing
Date: Mar 08, 2002
I have to go along with Brother Pike. Several years ago, Ron Christensen in Orange County, CA did some very serious experimenting with the wingtips of his "Mk III 1/2." He shortened them, added drooped tips, and so on, with disappointing results. I saw the airplane - which was the inspiration for my gull wing doors - and Ron is a real craftsman............beautiful workmanship. He was careful & completely documented his work. As I said, he tried several different lengths, and configurations, and the original, stock wingtips were far ahead of the others, and are what he finally stayed with. There may still be something in the archives..............seems like it was around '97 or '98 that he was playing (??) with them. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Where to shorten wing > > If it was mine, I would shorten the main spar 6" at the outboard end, > respace all the ribs outboard of the lift strut accordingly, and keep the > wingtip shape and size to plans. > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > > > > > > >Kolbers, > >I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches > >total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the > >garage. > > > >Is it best to take the 6" out of the wing tip, or somewhere in the > >middle of the wing, and leave the wing tip alone? > > > >I remember reading that it was important to keep the wing tip to > >specifications on Kolbs, because it matters to the flight > >characteristics. > > > >Any advise? > >Tim > >Phx,AZ > > > > > >--- > >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "D Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org>
"Kolb-List Digest List"
Subject: isocyanates
Date: Mar 08, 2002
>>The paint is a two part paint and an >>isocyanate catalyst is used. An isocyanate contains cyanide which is >>poisonous however when water is added to dilute the paint the excess cyanide >>is captured and therefore not sprayed into the air and a simple carbon >>breathing mask can be used when spraying. Group: I work in a auto factory where isocyanates were sprayed on in a primer coat for composite parts, they are nasty. A "spacesuit" had to be worn wich had a fresh air supply, and regular physical examinations were required if you worked near that stuff. I would get a MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on that paint before I would use it. One should be available from the supplier. Spray safe! Darren FS1,Cent. MI. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Where to shorten wing
> I would take it out of the tip because it will preserve more of the wing > lift profile and give you the lowest stall speed for the shortened wing. > Jack B. Hart FF004 Tim, Jack, Richard P: Recommend leaving the wing alone and stretching the garage. All the tinkering I have done with Kolbs, I have never changed one of Homer's outside dimensions, especially on the wings. If I just had to change the wing to make it fit in my garage, I would go the route Richard P suggested and take it out of the outboard end of the main spar. Homer designed the outboard end of the wing to meet his performance requirements. I have enjoyed them for many years. However, I am no engineer, don't claim to be one, and don't know if I can even spell "engineer". So take my opinion for what it is worth. A good man to talk to about this subject is Homer Kolb or Dennis Souder. Anybody else, forget it. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Where to shorten wing
Date: Mar 08, 2002
> Kolbers, > I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches > total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the > garage. > > Is it best to take the 6" out of the wing tip, or somewhere in the > middle of the wing, and leave the wing tip alone? > > I remember reading that it was important to keep the wing tip to > specifications on Kolbs, because it matters to the flight > characteristics. I shortened mine by simply not making the wing tip bow so large. it is the weakest part of the wing and shortening it really stiffens it up. I would not change the length of the main spar as it is already around two feet inboard of the wingtip and your only planning on moving the tip inboard 6 inches. I would maintain the approximate shape of the wingtip other then shortening it. I shortened mine 12" because then I did not need to splice the trailing edge spar or the aileron spar. I did add to the aileron size and made them flapperons to gain back some of the wing area. you will be making a plane with a slightly less efficient wing. if you build real light and don't carry a lot of stuff with you that wont matter. if you are building heavy and add extras your going to have a wing that is working hard, and will be high drag. small modifications in wing tip shape wont matter much. a big drooped tip or something might matter...for better or worse. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2002
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Where to shorten wing
Shortening at the tips per Topher's (Christopher Armstrong) post is the only reasonable thing IMO. I made my FS wings 4" shorter each side -- also primarily because of wanting to fit easier in the garage. If there is slight diff in roll rate, fine. I'm light, so is my plane. I'll add vortex generators and hope to see stall speed = or < standard length wing without vg. I modified my tips too. Why? Cuz I want to see what it will be like. I look forward to test flying this mod, and if it ain't no good, I know who to blame (yours truely). That's part of what is so nice and easy about these vehicles. My tips are the shape of what Possum did with his -- i.e. the top surface is the same as the rest of the airfoil, and the bottom cups up instead of remaining flat. -Ben Ransom --- Tim Gherkins wrote: > > > Kolbers, > I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 > inches > total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the > garage. > > Is it best to take the 6" out of the wing tip, or somewhere in the > middle of the wing, and leave the wing tip alone? > > I remember reading that it was important to keep the wing tip to > specifications on Kolbs, because it matters to the flight > characteristics. > > Any advise? > Tim > Phx,AZ > > > > > > > > ===== http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2002
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: cage welding repair ?
In my commiserating with Big Lar on setbacks, such as his broken redrive, I mentioned that i found a crack in what was supposedly a repaired tube in my cage. This is the diagonal tube in the main bulkhead -- it goes from the starboard side up to the port side of the wing spar carry-thru tube. So, this wknd I'll set about repair on that, and I plan to replace the tube. I'm now confident of my welding skills, but have a question. Welded structures change shape from the heating. I'm planning on getting some scrap steel lengths and making a brace/jig, which will essentially be a big X shape, with the top ends of the X each bolting to the wing spar carry thru holes, and the bottom ends bolting to the holes where the bottom of the lift struts normally are pinned. As well, I'll put a verticle length on each side of the X to keep it from doing a scissor thing. OK, so after I do all that, I'll cut out the bad diagonal tube member from the cage and weld in a new one. I assume there will be strain induced by this welding. When I pull off the X jig, the cage may prang a little bit anyway. So, is making the jig in the first place just overkill? There is minor temptation to not do the jig and just measure the critical cage hole dimensions before and after the tube replacement. I've seen a big hammer used to correct minor dimension problems from heat strain. OK, just writing this, I think I've talked myself out of even the minor temptation. The effort for the jig just isn't that much and seems like the right way to do it. Anyone with experience in this area, I'm interested in your thoughts. -Ben ===== http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 09, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: cage welding repair ?
A number of years ago I had to cut out and replace a number of destroyed pieces of tubing and cluster joints on my Anglin J-6. I was doing touch and goes, tail dragger, left main brake was defective and locked the left main wheel up at 40 MPH just before I was ready to lift off. Snap ground loop. Both landing gears ended up holding hands with the left wing lift struts. The whole lower front fuselage was a disaster, because when the right main snatched under and across, it took a couple tubes with it. However, the upper fuselage was straight, both doors and windows were straight, and the firewall was straight. By criss crossing a few wires across the cabin and tightening them by twisting, both doors and windows would open and close without binding. So I sawed out all the bent stuff, tweaked the fuselage with the tensioned wires, and welded in all the new tubes. Adjusted pressure so that the doors and windows would fit correctly, heated the tubing that was causing a bind, and when all was done, it flew hands off, and tracked correctly on the ground. The doors and windows became the templates. So you are wise to make some sort of template jig that will fit and touch the same places after you get done as before you start, then you know it will be OK. It doesn't need to be fancy, it merely needs to be accurate and reliable. You might consider crossing your cage with wires that you can tension, and if it springs to an incorrect shape after welding, tighten the wire and reheat the tubes, you can make it fit. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >In my commiserating with Big Lar on setbacks, such as his broken >redrive, I mentioned that i found a crack in what was supposedly a >repaired tube in my cage. This is the diagonal tube in the main >bulkhead -- it goes from the starboard side up to the port side of the >wing spar carry-thru tube. > >So, this wknd I'll set about repair on that, and I plan to replace the >tube. I'm now confident of my welding skills, but have a question. >Welded structures change shape from the heating. I'm planning on >getting some scrap steel lengths and making a brace/jig, which will >essentially be a big X shape, with the top ends of the X each bolting >to the wing spar carry thru holes, and the bottom ends bolting to the >holes where the bottom of the lift struts normally are pinned. As >well, I'll put a verticle length on each side of the X to keep it from >doing a scissor thing. > >OK, so after I do all that, I'll cut out the bad diagonal tube member >from the cage and weld in a new one. I assume there will be strain >induced by this welding. When I pull off the X jig, the cage may prang >a little bit anyway. So, is making the jig in the first place just >overkill? There is minor temptation to not do the jig and just measure >the critical cage hole dimensions before and after the tube >replacement. I've seen a big hammer used to correct minor dimension >problems from heat strain. > >OK, just writing this, I think I've talked myself out of even the minor >temptation. The effort for the jig just isn't that much and seems like >the right way to do it. > >Anyone with experience in this area, I'm interested in your thoughts. >-Ben > >===== >http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom > > >--- >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2002
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: cage welding repair ?
Richard, Sounds like a good plan. I'm picturing that wires also would stretch, and perhaps I might substitute all-thread. As in your wire method, this would offer hte advantage of being able to screw in some tension, or, if none is needed, they will also act as an accurate and fixed measurement of the hole dimensions. Yah! John, Thanks, I'll try to give your brother a call in the morning. I have not thought about just welding the crack closed. That would be nice, as it would take me about as long as it takes to adjust the flame on the torch. :) Don't think I wasn't feeling tempted as I went to lunch after reading your idea! But, in these times of airframe duress, I've referred to the FAA's A&P Airframe Handbook (AC 65-15, 1972 edition), and it describes all sorts of more complicated methods of taking care of dings and cracks in 4130 structural tubing. I'm thinkin this isn't one of those cases of the government being more complicated cuz they are, well, the government. In all their examples of dent or crack mending, they describe techniques and limitations for sleeving (inside or outside the original tube) or patching. The basis, I believe, is that just welding a crack or hole closed creates a small concentrated weak area around the weld, and a sleeve or patch with fishmouthed ends and rose welds in the right spots spreads out the heat hardened (weak) areas. The diagonal in my plane was bent about midway and banged cold back straight, so it is just a little work hardened there, not enf to be a problem by itself. The crack, all of 1/16" long and paper thin, is lower down where a curved 1/8" tube is welded on each side of the diagonal. So basically I feel the diagonal now has two strikes against it -- that's enf. Interestingly, the crack is right next to the weldments for this non-structural 1/8" curved tubing, which is a nice example to a newbie like me of all the book discussion of weakening occuring at the heat hardened area instead of the weldment itself. I'll take a picture of things. -long winded Ben --- Richard Pike wrote: > > A number of years ago I had to cut out and replace a number of > destroyed > pieces of tubing and cluster joints on my Anglin J-6. I was doing > touch and > goes, tail dragger, left main brake was defective and locked the left > main > wheel up at 40 MPH just before I was ready to lift off. Snap ground > loop. > Both landing gears ended up holding hands with the left wing lift > struts. > The whole lower front fuselage was a disaster, because when the right > main > snatched under and across, it took a couple tubes with it. > However, the upper fuselage was straight, both doors and windows were > straight, and the firewall was straight. By criss crossing a few > wires > across the cabin and tightening them by twisting, both doors and > windows > would open and close without binding. So I sawed out all the bent > stuff, > tweaked the fuselage with the tensioned wires, and welded in all the > new > tubes. Adjusted pressure so that the doors and windows would fit > correctly, > heated the tubing that was causing a bind, and when all was done, it > flew > hands off, and tracked correctly on the ground. The doors and windows > became the templates. > So you are wise to make some sort of template jig that will fit and > touch > the same places after you get done as before you start, then you know > it > will be OK. It doesn't need to be fancy, it merely needs to be > accurate and > reliable. > You might consider crossing your cage with wires that you can > tension, and > if it springs to an incorrect shape after welding, tighten the wire > and > reheat the tubes, you can make it fit. > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > > > > > > >In my commiserating with Big Lar on setbacks, such as his broken > >redrive, I mentioned that i found a crack in what was supposedly a > >repaired tube in my cage. This is the diagonal tube in the main > >bulkhead -- it goes from the starboard side up to the port side of > the > >wing spar carry-thru tube. > > > >So, this wknd I'll set about repair on that, and I plan to replace > the > >tube. I'm now confident of my welding skills, but have a question. > >Welded structures change shape from the heating. I'm planning on > >getting some scrap steel lengths and making a brace/jig, which will > >essentially be a big X shape, with the top ends of the X each > bolting > >to the wing spar carry thru holes, and the bottom ends bolting to > the > >holes where the bottom of the lift struts normally are pinned. As > >well, I'll put a verticle length on each side of the X to keep it > from > >doing a scissor thing. > > > >OK, so after I do all that, I'll cut out the bad diagonal tube > member > >from the cage and weld in a new one. I assume there will be strain > >induced by this welding. When I pull off the X jig, the cage may > prang > >a little bit anyway. So, is making the jig in the first place just > >overkill? There is minor temptation to not do the jig and just > measure > >the critical cage hole dimensions before and after the tube > >replacement. I've seen a big hammer used to correct minor dimension > >problems from heat strain. > > > >OK, just writing this, I think I've talked myself out of even the > minor > >temptation. The effort for the jig just isn't that much and seems > like > >the right way to do it. > > > >Anyone with experience in this area, I'm interested in your > thoughts. > >-Ben > > > >===== > >http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom > > > > > >--- > >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > > > > > > > > ===== http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Hauck" <jimh474(at)nettally.com>
Subject: Re: cage welding repair ?
Date: Mar 09, 2002
Ben; I'll be out of pocket for a couple of weeks. I'll be at my sons house in NJ. You can call me there on Wed. evening, his number is 856-482-6476. >From what I can gather from your post you have a very small crack next to a weld. If the diagonal is in column, I would just reweld the joint and cover the crack. If you are gas welding, post heat the weld area after you finish welding. Jim Hauck I'll be home until around 8:00 am this date. Mar 9. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cage welding repair ? > > Richard, > Sounds like a good plan. I'm picturing that wires also would stretch, > and perhaps I might substitute all-thread. As in your wire method, > this would offer hte advantage of being able to screw in some tension, > or, if none is needed, they will also act as an accurate and fixed > measurement of the hole dimensions. Yah! > > John, > Thanks, I'll try to give your brother a call in the morning. I have > not thought about just welding the crack closed. That would be nice, > as it would take me about as long as it takes to adjust the flame on > the torch. :) Don't think I wasn't feeling tempted as I went to lunch > after reading your idea! But, in these times of airframe duress, I've > referred to the FAA's A&P Airframe Handbook (AC 65-15, 1972 edition), > and it describes all sorts of more complicated methods of taking care > of dings and cracks in 4130 structural tubing. I'm thinkin this isn't > one of those cases of the government being more complicated cuz they > are, well, the government. In all their examples of dent or crack > mending, they describe techniques and limitations for sleeving (inside > or outside the original tube) or patching. The basis, I believe, is > that just welding a crack or hole closed creates a small concentrated > weak area around the weld, and a sleeve or patch with fishmouthed ends > and rose welds in the right spots spreads out the heat hardened (weak) > areas. The diagonal in my plane was bent about midway and banged cold > back straight, so it is just a little work hardened there, not enf to > be a problem by itself. The crack, all of 1/16" long and paper thin, > is lower down where a curved 1/8" tube is welded on each side of the > diagonal. So basically I feel the diagonal now has two strikes against > it -- that's enf. Interestingly, the crack is right next to the > weldments for this non-structural 1/8" curved tubing, which is a nice > example to a newbie like me of all the book discussion of weakening > occuring at the heat hardened area instead of the weldment itself. > > I'll take a picture of things. > > -long winded Ben > > > --- Richard Pike wrote: > > > > A number of years ago I had to cut out and replace a number of > > destroyed > > pieces of tubing and cluster joints on my Anglin J-6. I was doing > > touch and > > goes, tail dragger, left main brake was defective and locked the left > > main > > wheel up at 40 MPH just before I was ready to lift off. Snap ground > > loop. > > Both landing gears ended up holding hands with the left wing lift > > struts. > > The whole lower front fuselage was a disaster, because when the right > > main > > snatched under and across, it took a couple tubes with it. > > However, the upper fuselage was straight, both doors and windows were > > straight, and the firewall was straight. By criss crossing a few > > wires > > across the cabin and tightening them by twisting, both doors and > > windows > > would open and close without binding. So I sawed out all the bent > > stuff, > > tweaked the fuselage with the tensioned wires, and welded in all the > > new > > tubes. Adjusted pressure so that the doors and windows would fit > > correctly, > > heated the tubing that was causing a bind, and when all was done, it > > flew > > hands off, and tracked correctly on the ground. The doors and windows > > became the templates. > > So you are wise to make some sort of template jig that will fit and > > touch > > the same places after you get done as before you start, then you know > > it > > will be OK. It doesn't need to be fancy, it merely needs to be > > accurate and > > reliable. > > You might consider crossing your cage with wires that you can > > tension, and > > if it springs to an incorrect shape after welding, tighten the wire > > and > > reheat the tubes, you can make it fit. > > Richard Pike > > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > > > > > > > > > > > >In my commiserating with Big Lar on setbacks, such as his broken > > >redrive, I mentioned that i found a crack in what was supposedly a > > >repaired tube in my cage. This is the diagonal tube in the main > > >bulkhead -- it goes from the starboard side up to the port side of > > the > > >wing spar carry-thru tube. > > > > > >So, this wknd I'll set about repair on that, and I plan to replace > > the > > >tube. I'm now confident of my welding skills, but have a question. > > >Welded structures change shape from the heating. I'm planning on > > >getting some scrap steel lengths and making a brace/jig, which will > > >essentially be a big X shape, with the top ends of the X each > > bolting > > >to the wing spar carry thru holes, and the bottom ends bolting to > > the > > >holes where the bottom of the lift struts normally are pinned. As > > >well, I'll put a verticle length on each side of the X to keep it > > from > > >doing a scissor thing. > > > > > >OK, so after I do all that, I'll cut out the bad diagonal tube > > member > > >from the cage and weld in a new one. I assume there will be strain > > >induced by this welding. When I pull off the X jig, the cage may > > prang > > >a little bit anyway. So, is making the jig in the first place just > > >overkill? There is minor temptation to not do the jig and just > > measure > > >the critical cage hole dimensions before and after the tube > > >replacement. I've seen a big hammer used to correct minor dimension > > >problems from heat strain. > > > > > >OK, just writing this, I think I've talked myself out of even the > > minor > > >temptation. The effort for the jig just isn't that much and seems > > like > > >the right way to do it. > > > > > >Anyone with experience in this area, I'm interested in your > > thoughts. > > >-Ben > > > > > >===== > > >http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom > > > > > > > > >--- > > >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > > >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ===== > http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Elder" <billelder(at)denver.net>
Subject: Re: Where to shorten wing
Date: Mar 09, 2002
I added an eight foot extension to one side of my two-car garage to accomodate building my Mark III. It took only a couple of days and the cost was minimal. Roofed it with tarpaper. Thought it was only going to be needed for six months and now it's been over two years! But getting close now. I would much rather go this route than mess with a great airplane design. Just my thoughts. Bill in Colorado. Good luck to you! Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com <SGreenpg(at)aol.com> Date: Friday, March 08, 2002 5:53 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Where to shorten wing > >In a message dated 3/8/02 9:26:13 AM Eastern Standard Time, >rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com writes: > > >> I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Test
Date: Mar 10, 2002
Is the List down ?? Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Test
Date: Mar 11, 2002
No.I think every one got burnt out on the BROKEN INPUT SHAFT. ha ha Paul Sasseville Firestar II ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Test > > Is the List down ?? > > Larry Bourne > Palm Springs, Ca. > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > http://www.gogittum.com > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2002
From: Herb Gearheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Re: Test
Guys Try this one. Need advice. I have dibs on a MkIII with a 350 hour 582 DCDI Rotax engine. What is the engine worth and what will it cost to rebuild it? Herb in Ky Paul Sasseville wrote: > > No.I think every one got burnt out on the BROKEN INPUT SHAFT. ha ha > > Paul Sasseville > Firestar II > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> > To: "Kolb" > Subject: Kolb-List: Test > > > > > Is the List down ?? > > > > Larry Bourne > > Palm Springs, Ca. > > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > > http://www.gogittum.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Subject: Oil tank location, pros and cons
Craig Nelson is building a Mk III extra down in Phoenix. A questions came up as to where to install the oil tank other then in the front. He was thinking of installing it behind the engine and in front of the prop. This would make it easier to add or change the oil. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Take a look; http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/milows/oiltank.jpg Regards, Will Uribe El Paso, TX FireStar II N4GU C-172 N2506U http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02
Date: Mar 12, 2002
At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming Eagle (Kolb Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2002
From: Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: BRS model750 Sale Atlanta
BRS model#750 Sale $1250 Atlanta BRS model 750 with Kolb mount kit guessing 1 - 1.5 years old. I am selling a cannister chute for the family of a friend that had sudden stroke and died before he completed the building of his Kolb Kit which he had ordered it for. Shipping at cost. Scott in Atlanta 678 290-0507 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might ask. I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. This means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to push er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the question. I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc or a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop or with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel would ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures? Thanks for the help guys Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: Shorten wing Or: Hang It Differently
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Tim, With my old UltraStar, I was forced to remove the wings each time I flew because in the original US design, the folding-wing-universal-joint was on the main spar, which made the height of the folded plane about 8ft, which would not fit in my trailer or garage! My solution was to make a bracket to hang the wing on after I removed the bolt from the U-joint, still keeping the wings tucked on the plane. Removing the bolt was made easy: I got, what I believe is called an AN hinge bolt. It has a flat head, or tang, with a hole in it that makes it easy to grab hold of with your fingers. I used it instead of the standard AN hexagon head bolt to secure the U-joint. Instead of a nylock nut, I used an AN Wing Nut. I then drilled a hole in the bolt above the wing nut for a spring clip, then I ground off all the threads beyond the hole & tappered the end of the hing bolt so it would find its way through the U-joint easily. No tools were required & less than 2 minutes was added to my setup time. You could do the same. You could make a simple hanger that would hold your wings up front. And you could make a saddle that hangs over the top of the fuselage to hold the rear of the wings. The saddle could have levers on both sides that hang down & allow the wings to move back & forth when you put your new U-joint pin/bolt in & out, the hangers up front would hold the wings up & forward while in the garage. Bungees & foam could secure everything. You could fold the wings back as normal, but hang them on the swinging levers. Then you just remove the U-joint pin/bolt, pull the wing forward 6" & hang it on the forward bracket. Its something to think about. ....Richard Swiderski > > I agree with Steve. Once you have the wings all unhooked and ready to fold, > there is only one bolt left between folding and removing the wings> > > >> I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches > >> total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the > >> garage. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JOHN M. COOLEY" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Hi Vic and Gang, Way to go Vic. Hope you many enjoyable hours in your Firestar. Later, John Cooley ----- Original Message ----- From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02 > > At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming Eagle > (Kolb > Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane > > Vic > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Good for you, Vic. Wyoming will never be the same. Yahooooo ! ! ! Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02 > > At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming Eagle > (Kolb > Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane > > Vic > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil tank location, pros and cons
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Not that I have any authority here, or specific knowledge to give, but, I couldn't help but interject that my thoughts on this subject would be most focused on the TEMPERATURE of the oil, due to the placement of the oil tank BEHIND the engine and in the path of the heated air (as opposed to the fresher, clearer, cooler air) passing over, under, around and through the heated engine. Sorry if I jumped too soon, George Bass USUA ID # 80399 USUA Club # 555 USUA Club # 770 ----- Original Message ----- From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Oil tank location, pros and cons > (snip, snip, snip) >He was thinking of installing it behind the engine and in front of the prop. > (snip, snip, snip) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Way to go Vic, knew you'd do it. Congratulations -----Original Message----- From: VIC <vicw(at)vcn.com> Date: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:57 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02 > >At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming Eagle >(Kolb >Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane > >Vic > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2002
From: Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Firefly kit in Atlanta
Firefly kit with about one third construction finished. Am selling for family of friend who passed away before finishing. Complete kit without engine, chute or paint or covering. Has doors ( I think) windshield, and pod. Fusealage in epoxy primer with tail section completed and installed. All other kit parts as shipped from factory. $5,500 dollars. Must be picked up in Atlanta, GA Scott Perkins 678 290-0507 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02
Date: Mar 11, 2002
does anyone else gert a message that says"kolb-list digest 21 messages " and then have one message"way to go Vic ,knew you'd do it , congratulations" or am I the only one that doesn' tget it??? chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02 > > Way to go Vic, knew you'd do it. Congratulations > -----Original Message----- > From: VIC <vicw(at)vcn.com> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:57 PM > Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02 > > > > > >At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming > Eagle > >(Kolb > >Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane > > > >Vic > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Hi Gary For moving my Firestar II I lift the tailboom over my shoulder and walk with it. Paul Sasseville Firestar II ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Kolb-List: FireStar dolly...........thumbs > > Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might > ask. > > I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. This > means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to push > er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the question. > I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could > attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc or > a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop or > with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel would > ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures? > > Thanks for the help guys > > Gary > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Hi Paul, Yeah I can do that for a while but the distance is to great and bein in my mid 50's may not be so great on the ol ticker. I will be movein this thing over driveway lawn and field for over 100 yards. I need somethin that I can attach to an iron horse of some kind. ;-} Ain't as young as I used to be. Gary --------------- >From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> >Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FireStar dolly...........thumbs >Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 20:36:08 -0500 > > > >Hi Gary > >For moving my Firestar II I lift the tailboom over my shoulder and walk >with >it. > >Paul Sasseville >Firestar II >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> >To: >Subject: Kolb-List: FireStar dolly...........thumbs > > > > > > Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might > > ask. > > > > I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. >This > > means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to >push > > er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the >question. > > I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could > > attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc >or > > a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop >or > > with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel >would > > ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures? > > > > Thanks for the help guys > > > > Gary > > > > > > Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: control stick
I have just installed a computer joy stick on the handle of my MK X joystick. It looks great and I have 5 buttons to play with. I was wondering what to do with them. Perhaps I can wire in one of those little noise makers to give laser sounds and gunshots but to operate the starter and kill switch I am wondering how much amperage I can put through those little conductive rubber type pressure switches. Does anyone know? Could I wire in a smaller relay to operate the larger starter relay if I had to. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: control stick
Date: Mar 11, 2002
hey Woody, Anything is possible nowdays. Put your question out on the aeroelectric list, I guarantee you'll get a comprehensive reply. ...Richard Swiderski Subject: Kolb-List: control stick > I have just installed a computer joy stick on the handle of my MK X > joystick. It looks great and I have 5 buttons to play with. I was wondering ... ? Could I wire in > a smaller relay to operate the larger starter relay if I had to. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: News
From Skydancer: The following is from the March 2002 issue of The Recreational Flyer newsletter: "Wolfgang Langewische, the author of "Stick and Rudder, An Explanation of the Art of Flying" died on February 9, 2002 at the age of 94. An aviation classic for the past half century, the book was assembled from a number of aviation articles that he wrote in the 1940s. As a reporter for the Saturday Evening Post, his travels took him around the world. Wolfgang was also a test pilot for Cessna and the Vought division of United Aircraft. The past twenty-five years of his life he spent writing another aviation manuscript. In his remembrance, above all Wolfgang was a humble man who would rather listen and learn than to speak of his accomplishments." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 03/08/02
> At 10:30AM Mountain Standard Time on 3/11/2002, the Wyoming Screaming Eagle > (Kolb > Firestar) committed aviation. Homer designed a very sweet aeroplane > > Vic Vic/Gents: Way to go. We are proud of you. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Subject: Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
In a message dated 3/11/02 9:02:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, gbthacker(at)hotmail.com writes: > . I need somethin that I can > attach to an iron horse of some kind. ;-} Ain't as young as I used to be. > > Gary, if you still need something, email me off-list & I'll send you a drawing of my dolly I use on my Firestar. It can easily be adapted to hook to your mower or a trailer hitch. Shack FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
WalMart. Toy department. Cheap skateboard. Cut a slot in it for the tailwheel to drop into. Attach a length of EMT to the skateboard to hook to your tug. Are you done yet? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might >ask. > >I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. This >means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to push >er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the question. > I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could >attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc or >a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop or >with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel would >ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures? > >Thanks for the help guys > >Gary > > --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 12, 2002
Subject: Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
In a message dated 3/12/02 12:02:39 AM Eastern Standard Time, richard(at)BCChapel.org writes: > WalMart. > Toy department. > Cheap skateboard. > Cut a slot in it for the tailwheel to drop into. > Attach a length of EMT to the skateboard to hook to your tug. > Are you done yet? > > Good idea for straight-line pulling, but I don't think it would turn very well. Shack FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: control stick
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Possum ??? Here's yer chance.................... Do not Archive. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> Subject: Kolb-List: control stick > > I have just installed a computer joy stick on the handle of my MK X > joystick. It looks great and I have 5 buttons to play with. I was wondering > what to do with them. Perhaps I can wire in one of those little noise > makers to give laser sounds and gunshots but to operate the starter and > kill switch I am wondering how much amperage I can put through those little > conductive rubber type pressure switches. Does anyone know? Could I wire in > a smaller relay to operate the larger starter relay if I had to. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
Date: Mar 12, 2002
> Yeah I can do that for a while but the distance is to great and bein in my > mid 50's may not be so great on the ol ticker. I will be movein this thing > over driveway lawn and field for over 100 yards. I need somethin that I can You need a powered tug (riding lawnmower) to go that distance. Paul Sasseville Firestar II ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
Gary, I made a two wheel swivel dolly for moving my FireFly when the wings were folded. I will take some pictures and post them to the web so you can see how it is made. I make it out of scrap wood, wheels, handle and a new small lazy susan bearing. It could easily be adapted to larger wheels and a straight hitch bar for use of a riding lawn mower as a tug. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO > >Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might >ask. > >I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. This >means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to push >er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the question. > I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could >attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc or >a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop or >with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel would >ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures? > >Thanks for the help guys > >Gary > > Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: control stick
><swiderski@advanced-connect.net> > >hey Woody, > > Anything is possible nowdays. Put your question out on the aeroelectric >list, I guarantee you'll get a comprehensive reply. ...Richard Swiderski Thanks for the thought but the idea of getting on another mailing list is not appealing. I get 50 emails a day already and don't want anymore. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2002
From: Gary Wockner <gwockner(at)nrel.colostate.edu>
Subject: Kolb Firefly Kit(s) For Sale - Estate Sale
Hello, I am selling a Kolb Firefly Kit from my father's estate. The kits were purchased in 1996. The wing ribs are pre-assembled. He assembled the tail unit and it is attached to theTube. I believe that the motor mounting structure is also assembled, otherwise the kits are in pieces. To my knowledge, all pieces are accounted for. There is no motor. This sale includes kits #1 and kits #2. (Back in 1996 this was called kits #1 and #3. #2 was the covering materials -- I believe). All manuals and assembly instructions are included. Asking Price = $4,000. Buyer must come get the kits. No delivery is possible. The kit is in my mother's garage in Illinois (about 80 miles south of Chicago). Please respond to me (Gary Wockner) at (815)432-3507 until Wednesday night March 13th. After March 13th, respond to me at (970) 407-1163. You may email me anytime. Cordially, Gary Wockner ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2002
Subject: Re: control stick
From: Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
Woody... Those switches will handle about 500ma continuous. Ive put up to an amp through them, but they will fail eventually with that much current. Best bet is to go to radio shack and buy a few relays with a contact rating that is equal to or greater then your load and a coil current less than 500ma. Ross > From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 00:12:09 -0500 > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: control stick > > >> <swiderski@advanced-connect.net> >> >> hey Woody, >> >> Anything is possible nowdays. Put your question out on the aeroelectric >> list, I guarantee you'll get a comprehensive reply. ...Richard Swiderski > > > Thanks for the thought but the idea of getting on another mailing list > is not appealing. I get 50 emails a day already and don't want anymore. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Rats
Date: Mar 12, 2002
Just reading the new April, '02 Motorhome magazine, and it seems others have had John Haucks' problem with rats getting into the wiring etc., when storing their RV's. Apparently, mothballs do a good job of keeping the little buggers out, but leave a strong smell. This guy has found that using the "Fabric Softener" sheets that you put in the dryer with your clothes do a good job of keeping the critters out, and leave a pleasant smell, to boot. Good thought, and worth checking. Good Luck. Gogittum Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2002
From: Tim Gherkins <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Where to shorten wing
Kolbers, I very much appreciate all the input on line as well as off line about shortening my Firestar wing panels actually 5.5 inches. The same day I posted this question, I shot a short message of to Dennis S. and got a reply. He said, "Hi Tim, Just shorten the bow tip - I would not shorten the spar. Happy building! Dennis" Will Uribe visited us here in Phoenix for the second time this saturday, and took a few pictures(see his recent posts) and advised me to not change the wing in any way, and that I should change my garage like some of you mentioned. It was good to talk to Will and his friend Jack. Will and I talked for close to 6 hours, about Firestars performance and handling, building etc. Will really is a good guy and advised me on many aspects of building and flying a Kolb. As for my decision on how to shorten my wing panels. I am leaning toward my first intention as well as the advise of Dennis S. Just shorten the bowed tip. 5.5 inches is roughly about 1/5 the length of the wing tip which has a total length of 24.5 inches. A 19 inch wing tip I feel is acceptable, compared to knocking out walls in a garage or trying to cut on a 5" spar. I'll let Will fly my Firestar when it is complete next spring and see if he notices any difference in flight performance compared to his Firestar, and post our findings for the archives and future Kolb builders. Regards, Tim Tim Gherkins wrote: > > Kolbers, > I have to shorten my wingspan by 6 inches on each wing panel (12 inches > total). This must be done, so when folded, the plane will fit in the > garage. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2002
From: TK <tkrolfe(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
Gary Thacker wrote: > > Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might > ask. > > I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. This > means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to push > er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the question. > I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could > attach to the tail wheel and pull er on her main gear with either my atc or > a tractor. Anyone have somethin that came be home made in a wood shop or > with little metal working? I was thinkin about somethin that tailwheel would > ride on like a dolly or sim. device. Any suggestions? Any pictures? > > Thanks for the help guys > > Gary > Gary, I have been towing my FireFly to my airstrip for the last three years. The strip is about a half mile away up and down hills. I use the trailer hitch on my car to tow. I made a support hitch that lifts the boom and tail wheel about eight inches off the ground trailering the rest on the main gear. It attaches to the T-bar that fits on the boom to hold the wings when folded. Have made over a hundred trips back and forth to the air strip without any damage to the plane. I have to make some sharp turns on my driveway which is also up hill and I don't have to worry about the plane tracking behind properly. I don't have any pictures of the hitch other than on the plane which hides most of it. It's constructed of angle steel, pipe, EMT, bolts. foam pipe insulation and a trailer hitch. It does require welding to fabricate. I think you live close to me in my home town if I remember correctly. I could bring it to you to look at if your interested. I will make a point of taking a picture of just the hitch for anyone that might be interested. Terry FireFly #95 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: oil tank location
From: erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
Date: Mar 12, 2002
03/12/2002 12:02:42 PM Thats a nice fat engine ya got there! I have my oil tank in the front and dont find it much of an inconvenience really. I can check the oil level without using a stool by reaching up from behind the wing, but perhaps my height helps me there. Oil changes require a step ladder of course, but are just not frequent enough for me to consider changing the oil tank location. Where ever you put the tank, you will need to tank into account where it lies vertically with respect to the engine. Ideally, it is centered along the crankshaft. Too far up or down and you could have problems. Check the installation manual on this. I can also recommend the guys at Lockwood Aviation for advice - they may have some input on the tank location. Regards Erich Weaver erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100 Santa Barbara, California 93117 Tel: 805-964-6010 fax: 805-964 0259 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: transport dolly
From: erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
Date: Mar 12, 2002
03/12/2002 12:11:04 PM Gary: Check the archives for my post regarding a saddle and attached castoring wheel that I use to help me in pushing my plane around and getting it into a trailer. It attaches easily to the fuselage tube in front of the tail. I believe there was a picture of it posted as well which is much easier to look at then me trying to describe it. Also works great to get your leading edges up further off the ground when the wings are folded. I have since modified it to use a larger wheel which was a big improvement, especially for dirt and gravel areas. Let me know if you cant find it and I'll send you a picture. regards, Erich Weaver erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100 Santa Barbara, California 93117 Tel: 805-964-6010 fax: 805-964 0259 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 03/11/02
Date: Mar 13, 2002
The plane had been ready for more than a week but the wind wouldn't let up and even when the wind slowed down it was blowing across the runway. I had about 30 minutes of taxi time and everything seemed to function correctly; after I made a slight aileron adjustment. I was really nervous about the first flight but I recently took some dual time in a Maxair Breezy so I felt prepared. My instructor had flown a Kolb and he said if I could handle the Breezy the Kolb would be easy to manage. After 4 hours in the Breezy I wasn't sure that I was handling the Breezy or just hanging onto a controlled crash. I went out to the airstrip Monday morning and the wind was just perfect so I decided that now was the time. I climbed into the Kolb, my understanding wife acting as my safety person. Amazingly I was not nervous at all and surprised at how calm I was. I taxied up and down the strip to let the engine warm up and to wake up my feet and turned off the strip to let a spray plane land. Then I taxied back out and lined up on the runway and smoothly increased the power. A little forward stick and I felt the tail come up, kept the plane lined up, went to full power and eased up on the stick and the Kolb flew. I completed a nice pattern at 400 feet and came back around, set up for the landing and with a touch of power made one the best wheel landings I have ever made. My instructor was right. If you can get a breezy on the ground without damage, the Kolb is a piece of cake. Other than the need for a little left rudder trim, the Kolb flies like a dream. I live in Wyoming but I am spending the winter at Buckeye, AZ and the Kolb and trailer are parked at a small spray plane strip west of Buckeye. Spray plane pilots don't have radios and wouldn't use them if they had them. Also they don't pay much attention to a wind sock so you have to keep a sharp eye out. The nice thing is that they are usually below me (Spay planes have a service ceiling of 200' agl) and they are big and yellow so easy to see. Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: oil tank location
I can check the oil level without using a stool by reaching up > from behind the wing, but perhaps my height helps me there. Oil changes > require a step ladder of course, but are just not frequent enough for me to > consider changing the oil tank location. > Erich Weaver Erich/Gang: I bought some self adhesive non-skid material, but an oval shape large enough for me to stand on, and stuck that sucker to the top of the tail boom. I stand on the tailboom to do my inspections and maintenance on top of the engine. Been using this system since Firestar days. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org>
"Sam Clonts" , "Ruth Bryant" , "Ronnie Collins" , "Roger Zerkle" , "Kolb List" , "John Hauck" , "John Anderson" , "Jenifer R Strumbel" , "Jackie Sellers" , "Ivan Myslawchuk" , "Herb Gearheart" , "Edward Steuber" , "Dennis Kirby" , "Arlyn Moen"
Subject: FW: Tribute
Date: Mar 12, 2002
-----Original Message----- From: Elise Bell [mailto:ebell(at)southga.tec.ga.us] John Watford; Chris Wade; Carla Turner; Larry Trussell; Mike Treadway; Jack Teal; Jerry Stovall; Yolanda Stevens; Gloria Spence; Don Smith; Wray Skipper; Diana Skipper; Dale Sellers; Michelle Seay; Michelle Sealy; Brenda Rutherford; Duane Register; Mike Reaves; Michele Ragsdale; Amanda Pryor; Gary Prince; Sarah Pride; Jerry Pope; Gil Pittman; Julie Partain; Malissa Parker; John Parker; Rachel Oliver; Teresa O'Bryant; Thomas Moody; William Mathis; Mack Martin; Thomas Lloyd; Hugh Little; Karen Lewis; Edna Laster; John Lapinski; Monte Kilcrease; John Kelly; Eulish Jones; Sheila Johnson; Sam Irwin; Andrea Ingram; Bob House; Raymond Holt; Donna Hollis; Janet Heard; Pam Harvey; Lemond Hall; Edith Ann Green; Wayne Gosa; Mark Fletcher; David Finley; A. Harry Dragon; Johnny Dodson; Richard Davis; Angela Dailey; Brenda Cronemeyer; Mike Collins; Mark Collier; Mike Cochran; Randy Clawson; Deborah Burks; Phillip Brown; Mark Brooks; Debbie Boyles; Brenda Boone; Annita Barron; Vickie Austin; Pete Arrington; Martha Arrington; Tony Adams Subject: FW: Tribute -----Original Message----- From: Ford, Sabine S [mailto:Sabine.Ford(at)Benning.Army.Mil] Subject: FW: Tribute Osama Bin Laden, your time is short; We'd rather you die, than come to court. Why are you hiding if it was in God's name? Your just a punk with a turban; a pathetic shame. I have a question, about your theory and laws; "How come you never die for the cause?" Is it because you're a coward who counts on others? Well here in America, we stand by our brothers. As is usual, you failed in your mission; If you expected pure chaos, you can keep on wishing Americans are now focused and stronger than ever; Your death has become our next endeavor. What you tried to kill, doesn't live in our walls; It's not in buildings or shopping malls. If all of our structures came crashing down; It would still be there, safe and sound. Because pride and courage can't be destroyed; Even if the towers leave a deep void. We'll band together and fill the holes We'll bury our dead and bless their souls. But then our energy will focus on you; And you'll feel the wrath of the Red, White and Blue. So slither and hide like a snake in the grass; Because America's coming to kick your ass!!! Keep this email going. PASS IT ON ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com>
Subject: FW: Problem with tubes
Date: Mar 12, 2002
The following is an E-mail that I sent to kolb the other day. Just checking to see if anyone else ran into these things O.k. I finally got started on kit one read the instructions made a work area and resigned my car to the parking lot for the next few years. Now I have a problem. This is for a Mark III XTRA First: on page two Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator the page shows three tubes being cut out of 1" OD .058 Alum tube 31.25", 54" and 49" long total 134.25" multiple by two for the other side and we have a total of 22'-4 - 1/2" . I received one tube for 12' and one tube marked 4'. My packing sheet dated 12-20-01 by J.B. has the 54 FT crossed out and 16 FT hand written in. I have cut the 12 FT tube to make one side but I do not have enough material to make both sides. Anyone else have this problem? Second concern: the note "Bracket "D" (typ) attached with 1/8 x 1/8 rivets to 7/8" & 3/4" tube with 2 rivets in each tube" My question is what 7/8 and 3/4 tube is the note talking about since the tube that is located next to the note is 1" x.035. Please advise what to do. Third: the 5/16 od x .035" alum diagonal braces running to the vertical tube 1" od x 058" how many and what size rivets attach these tubes to brace "D" and made up brace on leading edge? Finally the 3/36 hole that is drilled is unclear on my print. Is the hole drilled TDC on the 1" od .058 tube? I will be sending the unpainted steel parts back as discuss 1/31/02 on Monday. I never did get that call about the main tail boom. So I have a suggestion I will be going to Oshkosh I can bring the tube with be and we can swap for a power coated tube. Ken James www.geocities.com/kjamesdesign/ <http://www.geocities.com/kjamesdesign/> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
Date: Mar 12, 2002
Richard....... Will this thing go over grass and fields. Sounds great for the pavement but will it work on dirt? Your right sounds awful simple. Gary --------- > >WalMart. >Toy department. >Cheap skateboard. >Cut a slot in it for the tailwheel to drop into. >Attach a length of EMT to the skateboard to hook to your tug. >Are you done yet? > >Richard Pike >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Laing" <bigtires2(at)attbi.com>
Subject: kxp cg range
Date: Mar 12, 2002
can anyone with a firestar kpx manual and a scanner e-mail me the pages that refer to the cg? I would be very greatful. also the chord measurments. thank you michael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: RPM erratic
Date: Mar 13, 2002
My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6 and back to 5. The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in the engine? Any suggestions. Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/10/02
Date: Mar 13, 2002
Dale Sellers: please contact me off list Vic vicw(at)vcn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2002
From: "Bruce n' Kathy" <n3nrr(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: RPM erratic
I had problems with my rotax 503 dcdi. First everything was fine, but when I went to mount my strobes, I found that the alternator windings (at the spades lugs) were shorted toghether from the factory with a shorting clip. I removed the clip and attached my strobe pwr supply. since then my tach has been Erratic. My guess is that the alternator has to be loaded. I was told from the strobe mfg that they shorted the alternator on some engines to keep the loading even. I think it was to keep the alternator spuratic noise down. -- Bruce n' Kathy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: RPM erratic
Date: Mar 12, 2002
Vic, i had erratic tach on my "582" converted SeaDoo engine when my battery became fully charged. I installed a set of lights to keep a load going & the tach worked great. ...Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> Subject: Kolb-List: RPM erratic > > My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6 > and back to 5. > The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and > checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in > the engine? Any suggestions. > > Vic > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: control stick
How much does a starter solenoid draw? >Woody... > >Those switches will handle about 500ma continuous. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 13, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 03/12/02First flight
Nice job on your 1st. flight. Maintain your speed on landing, as when you level off, there is not much weight and your speed will deteriate very quickly. If you are a foot off the deck (ok) 6 ft. off the deck (ouch bent gear). Again congratulations and hope you have many hrs. ahead of safe flying . Bob G Albany NY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: APilot(at)webtv.net (Vic Gibson)
Date: Mar 13, 2002
Subject: Mark III for sale
Almost finished $17,000. a/c 530, 257-7331 (from March 18 thru June 10th) Vic Gibson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2002
Subject: Re: control stick
From: Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
I'm not really sure. I think more than 500ma. I would put a lighter relay in between the switch and the starter relay. > From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:32:30 -0500 > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: control stick > > > > How much does a starter solenoid draw? > > >> Woody... >> >> Those switches will handle about 500ma continuous. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net>
Subject: Re: FW: Problem with tubes
Date: Mar 13, 2002
Ken, First: Apparently your prints have the wrong tubing sizes. Only the leading edge of the horizontal stab is 1" x .058, the Trailing edge and the inside edge are both 7/8 x .049. The 54' on the pick list is from the original Xtra Horizontal stab. ( it was widened at the outside edge to 12 inches) There were only around 20 Xtra kits produced before Kolb went back to the original MKIII horizontal stab (smaller and triangular) . Second: The 7/8 is correct the 1"x .035 is a typo. Ask Kolb for new prints. Third: 2 - 1/8" x 1/8" ss rivets on each end of each tube. Finally: The 3/36?? should be 3/16 is drilled TDC all the way through BDC of the 7/8" x .049 trailing edge tube, this is for the tail rigging cable. These problems can be frustrating, ask me how I know! Just be patient and work with Kolb. They will do whatever it takes. Just give them a chance and work with them. Let me know (off list if you want) if you have any other questions. Guy Swenson MK III Xtra - 3053B > First: on page two Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator the page shows three > tubes being cut out of 1" OD .058 Alum tube 31.25", 54" and 49" long total > 134.25" multiple by two for the other side and we have a total of 22'-4 - > 1/2" . I received one tube for 12' and one tube marked 4'. My packing sheet > dated 12-20-01 by J.B. has the 54 FT crossed out and 16 FT hand written in. > Second concern: the note "Bracket "D" (typ) attached with 1/8 x 1/8 rivets > to 7/8" & 3/4" tube with 2 rivets in each tube" My question is what 7/8 and > 3/4 tube is the note talking about since the tube that is located next to > the note is 1" x.035. Please advise what to do. > > Third: the 5/16 od x .035" alum diagonal braces running to the vertical tube > 1" od x 058" how many and what size rivets attach these tubes to brace "D" > and made up brace on leading edge? > > Finally the 3/36 hole that is drilled is unclear on my print. Is the hole > drilled TDC on the 1" od .058 tube? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: control stick
I'm sure you can make it work some way BUT... Do you really want to have these functions on your control stick? From personal experience I have found that switches on a control stick can be accidently pressed when you get busy. On at least one occasion I screwed up something in flight and inadvertently pressed the push to talk and said #%$#%#%#..... I didn't respond to the tower. If I was hit by a wind gust on landing and gripped the kill switch at the wrong time or the starter on a short strip takoff things could go badly. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII >>> rrcarl(at)concentric.net 03/13/02 08:43AM >>> I'm not really sure. I think more than 500ma. I would put a lighter relay in between the switch and the starter relay. > From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:32:30 -0500 > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: control stick > > > > How much does a starter solenoid draw? > > >> Woody... >> >> Those switches will handle about 500ma continuous. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2002
From: ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FW: Problem with tubes
James Sounds like you may have received the material list for the "new" smaller Hoz. stab. and the old drawing. Some of the early Xtra, mine included, has the larger tail. Later they went back to the original MkIII design. I have been sent new drawings but I had already built my tail and didn't change.You should get them to work through the design changes with you. Actually, my original drawings showed the original MK III tail (old style) and a revised drawing showing the larger version which I built. Now they are back to where they started. Anyway, I am sure that Kolb will fix you right up. I have had no problem getting minor shortages or incorrect tubes replaced. Lots of luck Ed Dallas, MK3/X --- "James, Ken" wrote: > > > The following is an E-mail that I sent to kolb the > other day. Just checking > to see if anyone else ran into these things > > O.k. I finally got started on kit one read the > instructions made a work area > and resigned my car to the parking lot for the next > few years. Now I have a > problem. > > This is for a Mark III XTRA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: RPM erratic
Know what you mean, went through the same thing myself. (Rotax 532, lighting coil runs the tach) Here's what the problem was: the tach got erratic because it wanted the leads switched. During the winter, the MKIII gets a through annual, and a lot of stuff got unhooked/reconnected. In the spring the tach was intermittently erratic. Put on a friend's tach, it worked OK, sent my tach in for overhaul. Came back, still erratic.On and on, yadda yadda. Replaced the regulator/rectifier with an upgraded unit. No improvement. Swapped leads on the back of the tach. No good. Turned out that I needed to swap the AC leads going into the regulator/rectifier from the engine, and then it was happy. I don't know why. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6 >and back to 5. >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in >the engine? Any suggestions. > >Vic > > --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re-Drive
Date: Mar 13, 2002
This is gonna be interesting ! ! ! Today, I opened up the box containing the new parts for my broken re-drive. In my phone conversation with the mfr., I requested the biggest input shaft possible, and he said 3/4" was the limit. I grumbled some about that, and felt a little spooky. Looked at the new input a while ago, and thought.............man, that's husky ! ! ! So measured it, and it's a full 1" diameter. (O.D.) Now, I feel better, and maybe this weekend will have time to start putting it together. Wish me luck. If it was just a case of insufficient strength, we should be in business. If the problem was harmonics................we'll see. Optimistic Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: Retarded Ignitions
Date: Mar 13, 2002
Richard Pike & All, My converted SeaDoo uses the Nipendenso ignition with the advance curve built in. It is my understanding that the aircraft Rotax is one of the few 2-stroke engines that doesn't use this method. ...Richard Swidereski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org> Subject: Kolb-List: Retarded Ignitions > > That would be Airscrew Performance, I have one of their units on my 532. It > is kinda expensive, but it works perfectly. It does retard the spark, but > not until the idle drops below 1,600, so mostly you don't ever use it. In > practice, you keep backing the idle speed screws out, and it gets rougher > below 2,000 until it gets to 1,400, and then the ignition retards and it > suddenly drops down to about 900 and gets real smooth. But it's really too > slow an idle. At that low speed, it does tend to stall sometimes, and just > plain sounds un-appropriate. So I keep the idle at 2,000-2,200, and don't > use the retard function at normal idle. > On the other hand, when starting, it never gets into that horrible gearbox > rattle that it used to do when it had points. It starts with a very slow > smooth idle, and then comes smoothly up to a normal idle speed. That has to > save some wear and tear, that rattle sounds hard on the crank. > You are right about parts being available somewhere. (but where?) I got the > Central Snowmobile Supply catalog and tried to cross reference the parts I > got from Airscrew Performance with what they had in there, but nothing > correlated. Maybe some of our listers in the Great White North could come > up with some commonly known interchangable Rotax/SkiDoo/Bombardier ignition > parts (points/CDI) that us Southerners have no clue on? > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > > > > > >Bob and all, > > > >I read some where, maybe this list, that there is a guy that puts in a > >different CDI (Nepondeso?) that has spark retard/advance that makes the 503 > >idle very smoothly....I can't see any reason (except for time/$) that all > >the Rotax 2 strokes can't have a modern computer controlled ignition system > >with spark advance > >Geoff Thistlethwaite > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2002
Subject: [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Larry Bourne Subject: Bill's Pics http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.03.13.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: RPM erratic
You don't say what kind of engine you have? What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati if a Rotax? Does the engine have one or two lighting coils? Where do you have your tach connected? What kind of voltage regulator do you have? I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by parties. Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil on and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the regulator starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you describe. jerryb > >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6 >and back to 5. >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in >the engine? Any suggestions. > >Vic > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Erratic RPM & Shunt Regulator Load Issues
Would there be any interest in a voltage regulator that could handle up to 10 amps and not load engine down when electrical power load is not required like the shunt regular does? The way the shunt regulator works, like a KeyWest, is it shorts the lighting coil thus loads the engine even if there is lower electrical power demand. This is wasted horse power. Presently there is a 3 Amp output regular on the market but I find I need more output to drive my strobes, radio, GPS, and anti collision recognition lights. I've been considering designing one and putting it on the market, for about the same price as the KeyWest ~$60. Is there any interest? It could possibly include a tach output useful for engines lacking a tach output - this may be standard or an option. Any interest. Last is a "light weight" wrench for the big nut on IVO prop to carry along in your emergency repair tool bag. I would expect it would sell between $10-$20, depending upon material it is manufactured from. Any interest here? Please reply to me direct at mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net Thanks, Jerry > >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6 >and back to 5. >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in >the engine? Any suggestions. > >Vic > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Headsets & Intercom sale
For sale: Flightcom IIMX intercom. Excellent condition, still has the nylon carry bag, all the paperwork and accessories. Two Flightcom 4DX headsets. upgraded with silicon gel ear seals and Headsets, Inc Mike muffs. Value new about $370. Sell for all for$225. Contact me off list. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) richard(at)bcchapel.org 423-323-9441 --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Darrell Bailey" <dbailey5033(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: UltraStar Brakes
Date: Mar 14, 2002
I was wondering if anybody has installed brakes on an Ultrastar. If so, how did you design them? I am having trouble turning my plane and was thinking how much easier it would be if I had brakes that worked independently with each other. If you guys have any ideas, please let me know. Thanks, DB in Bayou Country(about 70 miles south of Wild Bill) PS. There may be a certain technique for turning taildraggers that I am not aware of. If this is the case, maybe share the technique. Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: control stick
> BUT... Do you really want to have >these functions on your control stick? Hey it looks cool. I have thought a great deal about accidently hitting the switches. I have decided the trigger button is only good to make the sound effects but the kill switch is a recessed slide switch that will take a concentrated effort to activate. The starter button is on top and may not be normally interfered with. I have another push switch on top that I will use for a push to talk button. This will not be easy to accidentally activate in case of emergency. I think It will be safe to operate. As I said before if nothing else I can just wire in a sound effects generator and play with it on the ground. > From personal experience I have >found that switches on a control stick can be accidently pressed when >you get busy. On at least one occasion I screwed up something in flight >and inadvertently pressed the push to talk and said #%$#%#%#..... I >didn't respond to the tower. If I was hit by a wind gust on landing and >gripped the kill switch at the wrong time or the starter on a short >strip takoff things could go badly. > >Rick Neilsen >Redrive VW powered MKIII > > >>> rrcarl(at)concentric.net 03/13/02 08:43AM >>> > > >I'm not really sure. I think more than 500ma. I would put a lighter >relay >in between the switch and the starter relay. > > > > From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> > > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > > Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:32:30 -0500 > > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: control stick > > > > > > > > How much does a starter solenoid draw? > > > > > >> Woody... > >> > >> Those switches will handle about 500ma continuous. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available! Hey Lar They got the captions mixed up on your last 2 photos ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: control stick
> > >> BUT... Do you really want to have >>these functions on your control stick? > > > Hey it looks cool. Bill Woods has (I think) 5 or 6 buttons on top of his control stick. Think they control the EIS system -3 buttons, push to talk -1, and radio freq 1 or 2? Looks cool and I guess they really work - right Bill? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RPM erratic
Date: Mar 14, 2002
From: "Coggins, Josh, NPONS" <joshcoggins(at)att.com>
I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The tach works great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the tach display sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I am using the Key West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my Rotax 618. The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use? Josh -----Original Message----- From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net] Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM erratic You don't say what kind of engine you have? What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati if a Rotax? Does the engine have one or two lighting coils? Where do you have your tach connected? What kind of voltage regulator do you have? I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by parties. Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil on and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the regulator starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you describe. jerryb > >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6 >and back to 5. >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in >the engine? Any suggestions. > >Vic > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RPM erratic
but on climbout at 6700rpm The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use? > Josh Josh/Gents: By golly you got her wound up tight on climbout. What does she turn straight and level WOT? Is the redline on the 618 same same the other Rotax two strokes at 6800? The grey tach wire is sending pulses and I don't believe your regulator/rectifier has any affect on your tach performance. The guys that are having tach problems are using tachs that hook up to the two AC wires from the alternator. I have found that propping my airplanes, whether two or four stroke, to turn the red line or a hair above at WOT straight and level flight proves to give me the best climb and cruise with a ground adjustable or fixed pitch prop. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 14, 2002
Subject: Re: RPM erratic
In a message dated 3/14/02 11:04:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, joshcoggins(at)att.com writes: > I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The > tach works great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the > tach display sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I > am using the Key West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my Rotax > 618. The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would > assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this > problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use? > Josh, if your EIS has two plugs on the back, then you need to put a 10K ohm resistor [1/2 watt] in series with the gray wire. I installed mine right at the end of the gray wire near the engine. Good luck. Shack FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: control stick
Hey, Woody-- Here's my story abt hitting the wrong switch. Got a call one Sat early to help out a friend taking a Merlin II IFR. Altho it's rated for single pilot, it's a lot of work IFR. So we're moving OK getting stabilized on approach to Elmira, autoP working good, making like flying down a string when twr calls, saying braking action poor to nil. That didn't bother us cause the plane has beta props. So I jab what I thot was the PTT, but it was the autoP disconnect. The pilot wasn't ready to grab the yoke, but finally salvaged the landing. Gave me a very sour look. So much for standardization of switch positions. Bob N. pee ess why not wire some of the sws to flashing lites on the panel? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2002
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available! Whoops! Fixed. -Matt Dralle At 07:16 PM 3/14/2002 Thursday, you wrote: > > > Hey Lar > > They got the captions mixed up on your last 2 photos ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Reese" <nhwood(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Full Lotus Monofloat
Date: Mar 15, 2002
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- text/html --- StripMime Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeffrey Jones" <jeffrey.jones(at)interactivetechnologies.com>
Subject:
Date: Mar 15, 2002
Darrell, My Ultra Star does not have brakes......and after doing research I decided that spending $350-400 for a good setup that I could fly off the grass strips fine without them. My Ultra Star turns best to the left and within 40'....going right though is a bit more. I always taxi using left turns to my advantage. The technique that works for me is holding full down to lighten the tail and use rudder and power combined. However, always be thinking of the winds too. This is has worked for me and others out there will have a different experience. Jeff Jones Burlington KY -From: "Darrell Bailey" <dbailey5033(at)hotmail.com> -Subject: Kolb-List: UltraStar Brakes -I was wondering if anybody has installed brakes on an Ultrastar. If so, how -did you design them? I am having trouble turning my plane and was thinking -how much easier it would be if I had brakes that worked independently with -each other. If you guys have any ideas, please let me know. -Thanks, DB in Bayou Country(about 70 miles south of Wild Bill) -PS. There may be a certain technique for turning taildraggers that I am not -aware of. If this is the case, maybe share the technique. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Subject: Lights...
Date: Mar 15, 2002
Mr. Pike, I remembered a picture of your landing light that you stuck in your wing and was wondering if you had to brace the false ribs so the fabric didn't pull the apart. I like the idea and am considering it but was thinking the fabric tauting would bow those 5/16 false ribs something fierce. I might be all wet though. On the up side to it, it gives another good place to get up in the wing for inspections. How far out in front of the plane does it shine? Seems like it would be limited by the leading edge tube. Jeremy "Finally building again on the Kolb" Casey jrcasey(at)ldl.net P.S. for those who haven't seen this little trick, look here... http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg9.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: KeyWest reg
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: Mar 15, 2002
03/15/2002 09:37:08 AM The Keywest is not a shunt-type regulator. The Rotax stock unit is, and is covered with heavy aluminum fins to dissipate the heat generated by shunting the current when demands are low. Better check again, when I bought the Keywest, I did so based on the non-shunt solid-state regulation, cleaner power, from the advertising. It is 6 years old , maybe they have changed but back then they were not shunts. $60 is what I paid. I fused the input to the Keywest reg, then fused the output to each device, and paralleled-in a monster capacitor for noise absorption. There is no battery, very light electrical load on this aircraft, mostly electronics. Power is clean and noise-free, tach works perfectly. Jim Gerken ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Lights...
I will reply off list with some .jpg pictures. If anyone one else cares and wants pictures, mail me off list and I'll reply off list. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >Mr. Pike, > >I remembered a picture of your landing light that you stuck in your wing and >was wondering if you had to brace the false ribs so the fabric didn't pull >the apart. I like the idea and am considering it but was thinking the >fabric tauting would bow those 5/16 false ribs something fierce. I might be >all wet though. On the up side to it, it gives another good place to get up >in the wing for inspections. > >How far out in front of the plane does it shine? Seems like it would be >limited by the leading edge tube. > >Jeremy "Finally building again on the Kolb" Casey >jrcasey(at)ldl.net > >P.S. for those who haven't seen this little trick, look here... >http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg9.htm > > --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Woods" <kolbpilot(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: control stick
Date: Mar 15, 2002
Work like a champ, I've never hit the wrong button although I wouldn't put crucial things like starter or kill switches on them. Bill Woods ----- Original Message ----- From: Possum Subject: Re: Kolb-List: control stick > > >> BUT... Do you really want to have >>these functions on your control stick? > > > Hey it looks cool. Bill Woods has (I think) 5 or 6 buttons on top of his control stick. Think they control the EIS system -3 buttons, push to talk -1, and radio freq 1 or 2? Looks cool and I guess they really work - right Bill? = = = = Get mor ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: FireStar dolly...........thumbs
The photos are up at: http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly08a.html > > >Gary, > >I made a two wheel swivel dolly for moving my FireFly when the wings were folded. I will take some pictures and post them to the web so you can see how it is made. I make it out of scrap wood, wheels, handle and a new small lazy susan bearing. It could easily be adapted to larger wheels and a straight hitch bar for use of a riding lawn mower as a tug. > >Jack B. Hart FF004 >Jackson, MO > >> >>Need a bit of help. Rather than reinventing the wheel I thought I might >>ask. >> >>I may have to move my Firestar ll a bit further away from the runway. This >>means it will be a bit far to pusher er. As it is right now I have to push >>er through some trees and lawn stuff to get to the field. Now the question. >> I was thinkin of riggin some kinda tow bar up. Somethin that I could Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Laing" <bigtires2(at)attbi.com>
Subject: firestar limits
Date: Mar 15, 2002
can anyone with knowledge about the firestar KXP send me performance limits such as max speed, stall speed, gross weight, etc? thank you michael laing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Re-Drive
Date: Mar 15, 2002
Got to fooling with that new input shaft today, getting ready to start installing it, and noticed that it's splined into the drive sprocket, as well as into the flywheel. The original break point was right at the sprocket, which was one piece with the input shaft. Years ago, I had an old '71 Saab with the 1.7L Triumph engine. It had a similar spine setup from clutch to tranny. While on vacation, it stripped out the splines, so we came to a screeching halt. Local welding shop welded the shaft to the drive gear, and I took off for home...............gently. 500 miles from Weippe, Idaho to Port Angeles, Wash., and it was fine. Next morning, I fired it up to go downtown for coffee, got about 1/2 mile, and it snapped - right at the weld. Point is, this new unit gives 2 flex points, and removes a potential twist. Doubt if I'll get to it this weekend, but I feel much better about the whole thing, and starting to get that good ol' Gogittum Feeling ! ! ! Big Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Re-Drive > > This is gonna be interesting ! ! ! Today, I opened up the box > containing the new parts for my broken re-drive. In my phone > conversation with the mfr., I requested the biggest input shaft > possible, and he said 3/4" was the limit. I grumbled some about that, > and felt a little spooky. Looked at the new input a while ago, and > thought.............man, that's husky ! ! ! So measured it, and it's a > full 1" diameter. (O.D.) Now, I feel better, and maybe this weekend > will have time to start putting it together. Wish me luck. If it was > just a case of insufficient strength, we should be in business. If the > problem was harmonics................we'll see. > Optimistic Lar. > > Larry Bourne > Palm Springs, Ca. > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > http://www.gogittum.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Sun-N-Fun
How many of you intrepid aviators are actually going to set off across the country and "fly" the boundless void that lies between you and "Lakeland" this year. And where are you coming from. I have a reason for asking, so bear with me, please. And no Larry - Delta don't count. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re:
> I am having trouble turning my plane and was thinking > >-how much easier it would be if I had brakes that worked independently with >-each other. Before spending time and money on brakes try stronger springs on the tailwheel. The drag on the ground may be overcoming the ability of the tailwheel to turn with the rudder. I have seen a Flintstone brake utilizing a lever arm with a piece of rubber on the end that could be pressed against a tire to assist in turning one way. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net>
Subject: Re: UltraStar Brakes
Date: Mar 15, 2002
Hi Darrel I have a ultrastar with brakes on it I only have one wheel hooked up and only use it to turn around on at the end of the run way. they are internal expanding shoes the use them on cheap non racing go-carts I welded the drums on to the rims you can also use the band that go's around the drum like the old emergence brakes on cars Randy flying the soobydoo in NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darrell Bailey" <dbailey5033(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Kolb-List: UltraStar Brakes > > I was wondering if anybody has installed brakes on an Ultrastar. If so, how > did you design them? I am having trouble turning my plane and was thinking > how much easier it would be if I had brakes that worked independently with > each other. If you guys have any ideas, please let me know. > > Thanks, DB in Bayou Country(about 70 miles south of Wild Bill) > > PS. There may be a certain technique for turning taildraggers that I am not > aware of. If this is the case, maybe share the technique. > > Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2002
Subject: [ Ed Steuber ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Ed Steuber Subject: Summer 2001 http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/slyck@frontiernet.net.03.15.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Hey Bill
Hey Bill we/me/us are planning on renting this place again from Tuesday April 9 - Sat April 13 if it works out. Do you want to stop by after the show- and stay for a day or three?? Got room, more fun than the show, and you can park your plane at the 3,800 private airstrip and walk to the house and just hang aroud if you want. Last time, there was nobody using the airstrip but us. You'd get to go see the "lighthouse" like on the video and other neat stuff! http://www.collinsvacationrentals.com/propprint.php?propcode=SKY097 http://pendejones.home.mindspring.com/StGeorge/Pix.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig S" <Snaproll.er(at)GTE.NET>
Subject: FW: Problem with tubes
Date: Mar 16, 2002
-----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James, Ken Subject: Kolb-List: FW: Problem with tubes Ken: I had a similar problem with the H-Stab. Well almost, TNK sent the correct quantity of tubing to me for the old (Original) Xtra H-Stab. After building both stabs and having the same trouble with the infamous "D" bracket (7/8", 3/4" note), TNK informed me that they sent the wrong drawings for the H-stab, that the stab has changed back to the M-III design to save weight. Notice your kit is now labeled Mark III Xtra "Lite". At least my kit two was. I don't remembering ordering a "Lite" version of the Xtra but it is what I got, sort of. When I ordered this Kit, was hoping (expecting) it would be completely engineered with complete, accurate drawings. I so want to be SPOON FEED. (That's why I went with a kit and not scratch built). Have found many discrepancies in the drawings, but to the credit of TNK they have been an excellent company to work with. They realize some of the short comings with the drawings and have made efforts to correct. It's all very frustrating, but I sure we will get through it.... eventually. Anyway, back to your problem. If you haven't already talked to Linda at TNK, Give her a call. She will straighten everything out. TNK sent me a kit to build new (old design) H-Stabs. I'm sure they will ship whatever it takes to make it right. Craig Saunders Xtra 3Q 2001-25 Kit 1 & 2 ~10% Tampa, FL Snaproll.er(at)gte.net The following is an E-mail that I sent to kolb the other day. Just checking to see if anyone else ran into these things O.k. I finally got started on kit one read the instructions made a work area and resigned my car to the parking lot for the next few years. Now I have a problem. This is for a Mark III XTRA First: on page two Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator the page shows three tubes being cut out of 1" OD .058 Alum tube 31.25", 54" and 49" long total 134.25" multiple by two for the other side and we have a total of 22'-4 - 1/2" . I received one tube for 12' and one tube marked 4'. My packing sheet dated 12-20-01 by J.B. has the 54 FT crossed out and 16 FT hand written in. I have cut the 12 FT tube to make one side but I do not have enough material to make both sides. Anyone else have this problem? Second concern: the note "Bracket "D" (typ) attached with 1/8 x 1/8 rivets to 7/8" & 3/4" tube with 2 rivets in each tube" My question is what 7/8 and 3/4 tube is the note talking about since the tube that is located next to the note is 1" x.035. Please advise what to do. Third: the 5/16 od x .035" alum diagonal braces running to the vertical tube 1" od x 058" how many and what size rivets attach these tubes to brace "D" and made up brace on leading edge? Finally the 3/36 hole that is drilled is unclear on my print. Is the hole drilled TDC on the 1" od .058 tube? I will be sending the unpainted steel parts back as discuss 1/31/02 on Monday. I never did get that call about the main tail boom. So I have a suggestion I will be going to Oshkosh I can bring the tube with be and we can swap for a power coated tube. Ken James www.geocities.com/kjamesdesign/ <http://www.geocities.com/kjamesdesign/> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: KeyWest reg
> >The Keywest is not a shunt-type regulator. The Rotax stock unit is, and is >covered with heavy aluminum fins to dissipate the heat generated by >shunting the current when demands are low. Better check again, when I >bought the Keywest, I did so based on the non-shunt solid-state regulation, >cleaner power, from the advertising. It is 6 years old , maybe they have >changed but back then they were not shunts. $60 is what I paid. I fused >the input to the Keywest reg, then fused the output to each device, and >paralleled-in a monster capacitor for noise absorption. There is no >battery, very light electrical load on this aircraft, mostly electronics. >Power is clean and noise-free, tach works perfectly. > >Jim Gerken The following was posted by Ken Kennedy on the Fly-UL list 08-May-2000. "Using the tach lead on Rotax engines is not recommended when using a Rotax regulator/rectifier, as it will often result in erratic tachometer readings." "Note: With the newer model Rotax regulator/regulators, only one of the two lighting coil leads will provide a good tach signal. If your tach reading goes to zero as you advance engine RPM, use the other lighting coil lead." "PER ARDUA AD ASTRA" Jim, my post is based upon information I'm positive I got from the source, the manufacturer. Their a division of the company that produces the Titan aircraft. I had spoken to them about the output voltage which seemed to be running a little on the high side at the time on some regulars a few of us had gotten. I know we discussed a resistor and a zener diode which establishes the output voltage and I'm certain he confirmed they were using it to control a SCR which functioned as a shunt. I could and very well may be wrong, I'll try to reconfirm this information. I'm not saying their design is bad, it works. I'm just considering on trying to improve upon things. I done some search of other post and have found some other post on the Hawk list which also state it being a shunt type regulator. Hey, it's simple, it works, and would think it would put a fairly constant load on the engine all the time, even on take off. jerryb ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: RPM erratic
> >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6 >and back to 5. >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in >the engine? Any suggestions. > >Vic The following was posted by Ken Kennedy on the Fly-UL list 08-May-2000. "Using the tach lead on Rotax engines is not recommended when using a Rotax regulator/rectifier, as it will often result in erratic tachometer readings." "Note: With the newer model Rotax regulator/regulators, only one of the two lighting coil leads will provide a good tach signal. If your tach reading goes to zero as you advance engine RPM, use the other lighting coil lead." "PER ARDUA AD ASTRA" Use at your own risk. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: RPM erratic
Josh, Before you run out and buy another regulator, read recent post by me under this thread topic. If you have a EIS, how old is it. Does it have one or two connectors on the back. If it has two, you need to insert in series a 10K ohm 1/2 watt resistor between the gray wire and the EIS Tach input. Easiest is at the junction of the gray wire near the engine. This should allow you to use the gray wire for your tach signal. Note, if you have recent model EIS with the single connector, the resistor is already installed in the EIS. Follow Grand Rapids Technologies installation instruction for the tach connection if you have a EIS. You may need to reverse the 2 lighting coil wires from the engine going to the AC input terminals of your voltage regulator. (Note you can do the easiest at the regulator AC input terminals.) I posted a note about this in response to a question about KeyWest regulators. For some reason it seems the Tach signal is possibly being influenced by what occurs in the voltage regulator. The yellow leads are AC voltage and should not be polarity sensitive between the AC input terminals on the voltage regulator. Since I haven't had a meter or scope on the lighting coils and the tach signals, I would guess that there is some floating ground reference formed within the regulator that it shows up on one of the yellow wires making one appear as having a signal and other having a weak signal or an appearance like ground if the tach were connected to it. It may also influence the signal appearing on the gray tach wire. FYI: A handy little device is a Tiny Tach, cost about $29-$36. It has a long lead which you wrap the last few inches around a plug wire and it provides a digital readout of the RPM based upon spark. You need the model for the two stroke Rotax. See there web site. (Added below after forwarding you other messages.) Manufacturer of Tiny Tach is Design Technology - 1-630-920-1300 http://www.tinytach.com/ Hope this all helps, jerryb > >I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The >tach works great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the >tach display sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I >am using the Key West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my Rotax >618. The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would >assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this >problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use? >Josh > >-----Original Message----- >From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net] >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM erratic > > >You don't say what kind of engine you have? >What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati if >a Rotax? >Does the engine have one or two lighting coils? >Where do you have your tach connected? >What kind of voltage regulator do you have? > >I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by parties. >Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a >shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil on >and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the >time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your >tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as >engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the regulator >starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its >output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single >the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would >momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you describe. >jerryb > > > > >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6 > >and back to 5. > >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and > >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in > >the engine? Any suggestions. > > > >Vic > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ronnie Wren" <rsweld(at)pgtv.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-For Sale
Date: Mar 16, 2002
I have a Kolb Mark 111 for sale on Barnstormers. With trailer, BRS-VLS and lots of goodies. R Wren ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 16, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 03/15/02
In a message dated 3/16/02 2:52:47 AM Eastern Standard Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > > > Hello Possum. I guess I be one of those intrepid aviators. Upstate NY to Sun & Fun. See ya all there. To others flying, have a safe and enjoyable flight. Bob Griffin MK 3 618 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Reese" <nhwood(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Full Lotus Monofloat 4 sale part II
Date: Mar 16, 2002
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- text/html --- StripMime Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: KeyWest reg
Date: Mar 15, 2002
Kolbers, I had the same regulator as Jim & still had erratic tach readings unless I loaded the circuit. ...Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> Subject: Kolb-List: KeyWest reg > > The Keywest is not a shunt-type regulator. The Rotax stock unit is, and is > covered with heavy aluminum fins to dissipate the heat generated by > shunting the current when demands are low. Better check again, when I > bought the Keywest, I did so based on the non-shunt solid-state regulation, > cleaner power, from the advertising. It is 6 years old , maybe they have > changed but back then they were not shunts. $60 is what I paid. I fused > the input to the Keywest reg, then fused the output to each device, and > paralleled-in a monster capacitor for noise absorption. There is no > battery, very light electrical load on this aircraft, mostly electronics. > Power is clean and noise-free, tach works perfectly. > > Jim Gerken > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 16, 2002
Subject: Erratic RPM
Kolbers: I've had a some erratic RPM in my 582 as well, though my situation appears to be a little different from what has been reported here. I see it on the mag check. I use 4500 rpm to do my mag check. I'll see the usual 50--75 rpm drop on one side, but when I try the other side I'll get a 250 rpm drop shown on the tach, but I can feel in the seat of my pants that the rpm drop is the same as the other side. The problem is sporatic and not always reproducable. I called Kerry Yunk at Lockwood and he indicates that it has to do with the windings in the lighting coils. He said Rotax has altered the design of the lighting coils and the fix is a total replacement with a new style Rotax assembly at a cost of about $350.00. He recommended that I not bother with the fix. He said that it absolutely was not a safety of flight item and l that I just follow my feelings when it comes to an acceptable mag drop. Mark R. Sellers Kolb Twinstar Mark III, N496BM http://hometown.aol.com/cavuontop/n496bm.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gdledbetter(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 16, 2002
Subject: Re: Hey Bill
In a message dated 3/15/02 11:52:51 PM, possums(at)mindspring.com writes: << http://pendejones.home.mindspring.com/StGeorge/Pix.html >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gdledbetter(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 16, 2002
Subject: Re: Hey Bill
In a message dated 3/15/02 11:52:51 PM, possums(at)mindspring.com writes: << http://pendejones.home.mindspring.com/StGeorge/Pix.html >> Bill, You should really accept Possum's hospitality. I just spend a month on st. Geo. Island and flew my Firefly out of the Apalachicola airport. The FPO there is very friendly and sells a lot of fuel since they seem to be at the right place for folks flying east and west. flying the beaches of the islands can't be beat. Gene Ledbetter Cincinnati Firefly with 80 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Mark3 web seats
Date: Mar 16, 2002
I am now working on the installation of the web seats in my Mk3 Classic. The webs sent to me by New Kolb appear to be about 6" too long. They also have a velcro strip sewn into the edge of the end that goes over the front of the seat. They are closed today so I would appreciate any input offered from the list. Thanks in advance, Duane the plane Tallahassee, FL Flying my FireFly and building Mk3 912 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Mark3 web seats
Same here. I had to replace my seats, as the stitching along the top had begun to sun rot, and the new ones are different. Had planned to just lap the extra over the front tube and ignore it. But first plan to take them to an upholstery shop and put a few extra runs of thread across the top. The one pass that it came with is not enough. Thread's cheap. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >I am now working on the installation of the web seats in my Mk3 Classic. >The webs sent to me by New Kolb appear to be about 6" too long. They also> have a velcro strip sewn into the edge of the end that goes over the fro>nt of the seat. They are closed today so I would appreciate any input off>ered from the list. > >Thanks in advance, > >Duane the plane Tallahassee, FL Flying my FireFly and building Mk3 912 > > --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: <wecounselman3(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Sun-N-Fun:RE John's Adventure
> john h (sorry I got carried away) Don't be sorry John. Great story. From your adventure you must be a mighty pilot and navigator as well as builder. Thanks! ===== http://sports.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Sun-N-Fun
Don't know how many I have flown to, but the first > one was 1989. Gang: I lied. The first S&F I flew to was 1988. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeffrey Jones" <jeffandbecky(at)fuse.net>
Subject: Gas Tank For Sale
Date: Mar 16, 2002
I have a gas tank for sale. Approximately 3 1/2 gal in size and believe originally for an Ultra Star. I purchased it with some plans and do not need the tank. $25 for the tank and $10 for shipping. Will return balance of shipping cost. Jeff Jones ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Hello John-- About six months ago there was a long thread on ways of keeping rodents off flying machines. I suggested putting tailwheel on a block sitting in a pan of Clorox. Another lister said it would "eat" aluminum since it was hydrochloric acid. I replied it was hypochlorous acid, and that it wouldn't do much to Al. I've kept plain old Clorox in thin leftover chicken potpie dish, along with several strips of 0.025, thinest sheets I have plus pieces of another pie pan. Six moths later my Craftsman mike can't read any difference---meaning either chicken pie pans are really tough, or that the Clorox is too weak. Your thickness may vary. Bob N. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re:
Six moths later my Craftsman > mike can't read any difference---meaning either chicken pie pans are > really tough, or that the Clorox is too weak. > > Your thickness may vary. > > Bob N. Bob N/Gents: Way to go. I would have never believed it it you had not conducted the test. Will keep the process in mind if and when I have to build a moat around the tailwheel and main gear of Miss P'fer to keep those rats at bay. Beautiful day here in the Heart of Dixie. Should be flying, but got work to do. :-( Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Laing" <bigtires2(at)attbi.com>
Subject:
Date: Mar 16, 2002
thanks for the help guys. mike ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Avemco Insurance
Avemco sent me a request to quote on the insurance on my FireStar. I sent them all the information the asked for and today I received the quote from them which seemed to be in line as to premium. However there was a statement on the quote the said and I quote "Due to underwriting changes this quote will become null and void on April 6, 2002. We will not be writing any new insurance policies for this type of aircraft on or after the above written date". I don't know what "this type of aircraft" means. Anyone know what is going on?=0D =0D Ron Payne ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Avemco Insurance
Why not ask Avemco what they mean? Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO > >Avemco sent me a request to quote on the insurance on my FireStar. I sen>t >them all the information the asked for and today I received the quote fro>m >them which seemed to be in line as to premium. However there was a >statement on the quote the said and I quote "Due to underwriting changes >this quote will become null and void on April 6, 2002. We will not be >writing any new insurance policies for this type of aircraft on or after >the >above written date". I don't know what "this type of aircraft" means. >Anyone know what is going on?=0D >=0D >Ron Payne > Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: Avemco Insurance
It is Saturday and I don't know if their office is open. I just wanted to know if anyone else knows what Avemco is doing. I think I am going to quite posting on this list. I was sincere with my question just as I have been with other questions. I am tired of these sarcastic responces.=0D =0D Ron Payne=0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D Date: Saturday, March 16, 2002 15:38:33=0D Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Avemco Insurance=0D =0D =0D Why not ask Avemco what they mean?=0D =0D Jack B. Hart FF004=0D Jackson, MO=0D =0D >=0D >Avemco sent me a request to quote on the insurance on my FireStar. I sen=0D >t=0D >them all the information the asked for and today I received the quote fro=0D >m=0D >them which seemed to be in line as to premium. However there was a=0D >statement on the quote the said and I quote "Due to underwriting changes=0D >this quote will become null and void on April 6, 2002. We will not be=0D >writing any new insurance policies for this type of aircraft on or after=0D >the=0D >above written date". I don't know what "this type of aircraft" means.=0D >Anyone know what is going on?0D=0D >0D=0D >Ron Payne=0D >=0D =0D =0D Jack & Louise Hart=0D jbhart(at)ldd.net=0D =0D =0D = =0D = =0D = =0D = =0D =0D =0D =0D =0D =2E ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: Avemco Insurance
Disregard the last post by me. I guess it just pushed my button. I not only wanted to know if anyone has any idea what this Avemco was thinking but also let members of this list know what Avemco is doing. I still stand by my comment of some sarcastic responces on this list but this was not one of them. My appolgies to Jack Hart. Ron Payne -------Original Message------- From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Date: Saturday, March 16, 2002 15:47:11 Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Avemco Insurance It is Saturday and I don't know if their office is open. I just wanted to know if anyone else knows what Avemco is doing. I think I am going to quite posting on this list. I was sincere with my question just as I have been with other questions. I am tired of these sarcastic responces. Ron Payne -------Original Message------- From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Date: Saturday, March 16, 2002 15:38:33 Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Avemco Insurance net> Why not ask Avemco what they mean? Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO net> > >Avemco sent me a request to quote on the insurance on my FireStar. I sen >t >them all the information the asked for and today I received the quote fro >m >them which seemed to be in line as to premium. However there was a >statement on the quote the said and I quote "Due to underwriting changes >this quote will become null and void on April 6, 2002. We will not be >writing any new insurance policies for this type of aircraft on or after >the >above written date". I don't know what "this type of aircraft" means. >Anyone know what is going on?0D >0D >Ron Payne > Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net . _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Avemco Insurance
Well, heck--I haven't even got that much of a reply from AVEMCO! So much for Brand Loyalty. I've had A/C ins with(?) them since abt '65 or so--and absolutely claim free. I'd buy from anyone else, but so far have struck out, And I HAVE tried calling them, but they only want to ans. if you have a claim. Bob N. also disgusted---and ins is mandatory in VA. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Avemco Insurance
> Why not ask Avemco what they mean? > > Jack B. Hart FF004 Jack/Gang: Good idea. :-) I also must call them on or before 22 Mar to cancel my hull coverage for next year. Been carrying $30,000.00 up til now, but for what they want to cover it, I will have to gamble on not having an accident or lose my airplane by an act of God or rats. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Sharp" <mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Mark III Classic Rear enclosure
Date: Mar 16, 2002
Gents, Am in the process of completing my punch list etc. Does anyone have any photo's of the proper installation of the clear "plastic" rear enclosure?? it seems to rap around to the bows just rear of the door frame. any help??? Mike Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re:
Anti-freeze, the old green stuff, not the orange stuff, will do the trick, just keep the cats and dogs away from it, they will just lap it down. jerryb > >Hello John-- > >About six months ago there was a long thread on ways of keeping rodents >off flying machines. I suggested putting tailwheel on a block sitting in >a pan of Clorox. Another lister said it would "eat" aluminum since it >was hydrochloric acid. I replied it was hypochlorous acid, and that it >wouldn't do much to Al. I've kept plain old Clorox in thin leftover >chicken potpie dish, along with several strips of 0.025, thinest sheets >I have plus pieces of another pie pan. Six moths later my Craftsman >mike can't read any difference---meaning either chicken pie pans are >really tough, or that the Clorox is too weak. > >Your thickness may vary. > >Bob N. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 16, 2002
Subject: Re: Erratic RPM
In a message dated 3/16/02 12:37:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes: > Yunk sounds like a real professional maintenance/aviator type. Hope you did > not take him serious. You may follow your feelings until it "hurts". Why > have a mag check if one can only check one side with the tach? > John: Yunck is Lockwood's top mechanic. They are Rotax factory authorized to do warranty work, and he has trained at the factory in Austria. Do I take him seriously? You bet I do. In an ideal world with a bottomless check book I would want a perfect mag check every time I got in my Kolb, and I would whup my chief of maintenance upside the head with my gold walking stick if it wasn't just right. My problem is 1) I don't have that kind of money, and 2) that the problem is flakey and not easily reproducible. In the last 10 mag checks I have done I have had this funny problem of an obviously incorrect tach indication, but otherwise normal mag drop, maybe twice. You are right that there is no point in doing a mag check if you are only going to check one side. But I always check both sides no matter what, and even when my flaky problem occurs I can still get a pretty good intuitive feel for the actual amount of the mag drop because I just checked the other side and it was normal. Do I know the exact amount of the drop? No, of course not. But I can tell that that it is more or less in the same range as the other side that I just tested. If they felt radically different I would reject the flight, and I have done that in other aircraft. Yunck reports that this occasional flakiness in Rotax tach indications is a result of something in the windings and that Rotax has slightly modified their current production to address the problem, but that it has no impact whatsoever on the rest of the ignition system. When a guy who stands to make some money selling me the new parts ($350.00) and doing the installation (shop rate is $45.00 per hour) tells me not to bother with it, I take notice. I also factor into the equation that I have a 6 year old motorcycle battery in my mark 3 which is now pretty nearly dead. I've ordered a new red top ultrabat and I'm going to install that and see what happens. While I agree with you that occasional odd behavior from my tach is not perfect, I'm willing to tolerate it for the moment as long as it doesn't get any worse. Mark R. Sellers Kolb Twinstar Mark III, N496BM http://hometown.aol.com/cavuontop/n496bm.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RPM erratic
Date: Mar 17, 2002
From: "Coggins, Josh, NPONS" <joshcoggins(at)att.com>
Jerry, I have the older EIS with the two serial type connections. I already have the 10K resistor installed in-line with the grey tach lead, so that shouldn't be my problem. But I could try switching the two AC input wires that hook up to the Key West regulator as you described. This problem doesn't really bother me too much since my engine runs great and the problem only shows up at full throttle, which I don't spend much time there anyway. Thanks for the help! Josh -----Original Message----- From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net] Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RPM erratic Josh, Before you run out and buy another regulator, read recent post by me under this thread topic. If you have a EIS, how old is it. Does it have one or two connectors on the back. If it has two, you need to insert in series a 10K ohm 1/2 watt resistor between the gray wire and the EIS Tach input. Easiest is at the junction of the gray wire near the engine. This should allow you to use the gray wire for your tach signal. Note, if you have recent model EIS with the single connector, the resistor is already installed in the EIS. Follow Grand Rapids Technologies installation instruction for the tach connection if you have a EIS. You may need to reverse the 2 lighting coil wires from the engine going to the AC input terminals of your voltage regulator. (Note you can do the easiest at the regulator AC input terminals.) I posted a note about this in response to a question about KeyWest regulators. For some reason it seems the Tach signal is possibly being influenced by what occurs in the voltage regulator. The yellow leads are AC voltage and should not be polarity sensitive between the AC input terminals on the voltage regulator. Since I haven't had a meter or scope on the lighting coils and the tach signals, I would guess that there is some floating ground reference formed within the regulator that it shows up on one of the yellow wires making one appear as having a signal and other having a weak signal or an appearance like ground if the tach were connected to it. It may also influence the signal appearing on the gray tach wire. FYI: A handy little device is a Tiny Tach, cost about $29-$36. It has a long lead which you wrap the last few inches around a plug wire and it provides a digital readout of the RPM based upon spark. You need the model for the two stroke Rotax. See there web site. (Added below after forwarding you other messages.) Manufacturer of Tiny Tach is Design Technology - 1-630-920-1300 http://www.tinytach.com/ Hope this all helps, jerryb > >I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The >tach works great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the >tach display sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I >am using the Key West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my Rotax >618. The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would >assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this >problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use? >Josh > >-----Original Message----- >From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net] >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM erratic > > >You don't say what kind of engine you have? >What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati if >a Rotax? >Does the engine have one or two lighting coils? >Where do you have your tach connected? >What kind of voltage regulator do you have? > >I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by parties. >Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a >shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil on >and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the >time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your >tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as >engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the regulator >starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its >output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single >the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would >momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you describe. >jerryb > > > > >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6 > >and back to 5. > >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and > >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in > >the engine? Any suggestions. > > > >Vic > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Avemco Insurance
John, Was your quote for in motion coverage - you still may want to retain coverage for taxi and while sitting, it should be much lower since most incidents happen during the T/O or landing phase. jerryb > > > > Why not ask Avemco what they mean? > > > > Jack B. Hart FF004 > > >Jack/Gang: > >Good idea. :-) > >I also must call them on or before 22 Mar to cancel my hull >coverage for next year. Been carrying $30,000.00 up til >now, but for what they want to cover it, I will have to >gamble on not having an accident or lose my airplane by an >act of God or rats. > >john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: RPM erratic
I do some more searches on this topic. I seem to recall something about it being question in the past. I've made it a point to save some of these post. jerryb > >Jerry, > I have the older EIS with the two serial type connections. I > already have the 10K resistor installed in-line with the grey tach lead, > so that shouldn't be my problem. But I could try switching the two AC > input wires that hook up to the Key West regulator as you > described. This problem doesn't really bother me too much since my > engine runs great and the problem only shows up at full throttle, which I > don't spend much time there anyway. Thanks for the help! >Josh > >-----Original Message----- >From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net] >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RPM erratic > > >Josh, Before you run out and buy another regulator, read recent post by me >under this thread topic. > >If you have a EIS, how old is it. Does it have one or two connectors on >the back. If it has two, you need to insert in series a 10K ohm 1/2 watt >resistor between the gray wire and the EIS Tach input. Easiest is at the >junction of the gray wire near the engine. This should allow you to use >the gray wire for your tach signal. Note, if you have recent model EIS >with the single connector, the resistor is already installed in the >EIS. Follow Grand Rapids Technologies installation instruction for the >tach connection if you have a EIS. > >You may need to reverse the 2 lighting coil wires from the engine going to >the AC input terminals of your voltage regulator. (Note you can do the >easiest at the regulator AC input terminals.) I posted a note about this >in response to a question about KeyWest regulators. For some reason it >seems the Tach signal is possibly being influenced by what occurs in the >voltage regulator. The yellow leads are AC voltage and should not be >polarity sensitive between the AC input terminals on the voltage regulator. >Since I haven't had a meter or scope on the lighting coils and the tach >signals, I would guess that there is some floating ground reference formed >within the regulator that it shows up on one of the yellow wires making one >appear as having a signal and other having a weak signal or an appearance >like ground if the tach were connected to it. It may also influence the >signal appearing on the gray tach wire. > >FYI: A handy little device is a Tiny Tach, cost about $29-$36. It has a >long lead which you wrap the last few inches around a plug wire and it >provides a digital readout of the RPM based upon spark. You need the model >for the two stroke Rotax. See there web site. (Added below after >forwarding you other messages.) >Manufacturer of Tiny Tach is Design Technology - 1-630-920-1300 >http://www.tinytach.com/ > >Hope this all helps, >jerryb > > > > > > >I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The > >tach works great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the > >tach display sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I > >am using the Key West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my Rotax > >618. The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would > >assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this > >problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use? > >Josh > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net] > >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM erratic > > > > > > > >You don't say what kind of engine you have? > >What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati if > >a Rotax? > >Does the engine have one or two lighting coils? > >Where do you have your tach connected? > >What kind of voltage regulator do you have? > > > >I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by parties. > >Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a > >shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil on > >and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the > >time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your > >tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as > >engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the regulator > >starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its > >output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single > >the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would > >momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you describe. > >jerryb > > > > > > > >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6 > > >and back to 5. > > >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and > > >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in > > >the engine? Any suggestions. > > > > > >Vic > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Boyter" <boyter@pioneer-net.com>
Subject: Re: RPM erratic
Date: Mar 17, 2002
Some times you have to put more than a 10 K resistor in-line, Try a 20 K resister? Wayne Kolb mark 3 Rotax 582 72" Warp drive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Coggins, Josh, NPONS" <joshcoggins(at)att.com> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RPM erratic > > Jerry, > I have the older EIS with the two serial type connections. I already have the 10K resistor installed in-line with the grey tach lead, so that shouldn't be my problem. But I could try switching the two AC input wires that hook up to the Key West regulator as you described. This problem doesn't really bother me too much since my engine runs great and the problem only shows up at full throttle, which I don't spend much time there anyway. Thanks for the help! > Josh > > -----Original Message----- > From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net] > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: Kolb-List: RPM erratic > > > Josh, Before you run out and buy another regulator, read recent post by me > under this thread topic. > > If you have a EIS, how old is it. Does it have one or two connectors on > the back. If it has two, you need to insert in series a 10K ohm 1/2 watt > resistor between the gray wire and the EIS Tach input. Easiest is at the > junction of the gray wire near the engine. This should allow you to use > the gray wire for your tach signal. Note, if you have recent model EIS > with the single connector, the resistor is already installed in the > EIS. Follow Grand Rapids Technologies installation instruction for the > tach connection if you have a EIS. > > You may need to reverse the 2 lighting coil wires from the engine going to > the AC input terminals of your voltage regulator. (Note you can do the > easiest at the regulator AC input terminals.) I posted a note about this > in response to a question about KeyWest regulators. For some reason it > seems the Tach signal is possibly being influenced by what occurs in the > voltage regulator. The yellow leads are AC voltage and should not be > polarity sensitive between the AC input terminals on the voltage regulator. > Since I haven't had a meter or scope on the lighting coils and the tach > signals, I would guess that there is some floating ground reference formed > within the regulator that it shows up on one of the yellow wires making one > appear as having a signal and other having a weak signal or an appearance > like ground if the tach were connected to it. It may also influence the > signal appearing on the gray tach wire. > > FYI: A handy little device is a Tiny Tach, cost about $29-$36. It has a > long lead which you wrap the last few inches around a plug wire and it > provides a digital readout of the RPM based upon spark. You need the model > for the two stroke Rotax. See there web site. (Added below after > forwarding you other messages.) > Manufacturer of Tiny Tach is Design Technology - 1-630-920-1300 > http://www.tinytach.com/ > > Hope this all helps, > jerryb > > > > > >I have been having this problem with my tach (EIS instrumentation)! The > >tach works great at rpms up to about 6500, but on climbout at 6700rpm the > >tach display sometimes disappears or only shows the first two numbers. I > >am using the Key West regulator and have dual Ducatti ignition on my Rotax > >618. The tach is hooked up to the grey tach wire on the engine. I would > >assume that changing to a different type of regulator would solve this > >problem? Can you recommend a regulator to use? > >Josh > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: jerryb [mailto:ulflyer(at)airmail.net] > >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM erratic > > > > > > > >You don't say what kind of engine you have? > >What type ignition does it have, the older point(s) or the newer Ducati if > >a Rotax? > >Does the engine have one or two lighting coils? > >Where do you have your tach connected? > >What kind of voltage regulator do you have? > > > >I came up with these questions after reading the comments posted by parties. > >Pertaining to lighting coils, if you have a KeyWest regulator, it is a > >shunt type regulator meaning it regulates by shorting the lighting coil on > >and off. If your electrical power demand is low it shorts more of the > >time, if the load is high, is shorts it less. If you have connected your > >tach to the external load lighting coil, you may be seeing the effects as > >engine RPM increases, the lighting coil output increases and the regulator > >starts shunting (shorting) the lighting coil effectively reducing its > >output. When this shunting occurs, your tach would become erratic single > >the coil is being shorted on and off. When shorted the tach signal would > >momentarily disappear then appear again producing the symptoms you describe. > >jerryb > > > > > > > >My tach is erratic between about 4500 and 6000 rpm. It jumps from 45 to 6 > > >and back to 5. > > >The motor is not making abrupt changes. I have replaced the tach and > > >checked the wiring. I have a good ground. Could it be the sender unit in > > >the engine? Any suggestions. > > > > > >Vic > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2002
From: "Lloyd O'Dell" <wander10(at)infi.net>
Subject: Tachometer
Kolb owners and flyers, I am building a Firestar II with 503 engine. i did not receive paper work with my tachometer. It is a UMA, Dayton Va. It has three wires coming out the back, a red, a white, and a black. I assume the black is for ground. My question is which wire do I hook to the gray wire on the engine and what do I hook the remaining wire to? Lloyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patty M" <pattym(at)lushen.com>
Subject: Ultrastar nose job
Date: Mar 17, 2002
Hi Ed, I looked at the photo share you sent and the fit of the nose pod looked really good. Would you give us more information about your modifications such as the tires , nose pod, engine and gear reduction unit and what difference the changes made in performance compared to the original setup. Good job, I enjoyed looking at your plane. Phil MacGregor Ultrastar Marquette Mi ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Erratic RPM
You may follow your feelings until it "hurts". Why > > have a mag check if one can only check one side with the tach? > > > > John: > > Yunck is Lockwood's top mechanic. They are Rotax factory authorized > to do warranty work, and he has trained at the factory in Austria. Do I take > him seriously? You bet I do. > Mark R. Sellers Mark/Gents: My point is, if you accept less than normal for a pretake off check, based on perceived/"gut" instinct rather than on a reliable instrument, you may/will eventually get into trouble. It may also increase your willingness to accept other substandard performance/preflight/pretakeoff indicators. Not arguing that Yunck is not a good mechanic. I question his displayed attitude encouraging you to fly with less than satisfactory preflight procedures. Yes, he could sell you what is required to make the Rotax/tach perform correctly and make a lot of money doing so. I think he is also defending his product with his advice "it is ok to fly with a one sided mag check". The pilot is the ultimate authority to make the decision to take off, whether or not he is sure his aircraft is ready to fly safely and reliably. Think about this a minute or two: If you can tell by listening/feeling that the mag check is within the green arc, you probably do not need a tach. I know, I know, in a short period of time we were able to fly, low time student pilots in flight school, TH-55 and OH-13 recip helicopters without rpm governors, keeping them in the proper rpm setting for climb and cruise by feel and sound. But main rotor rpm is critical on the high and low side. We also had an acurate tach to keep us straight. If not, we red x'd the aircraft and got another one. My point: Accept less than the best and you may get hurt. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 03/16/02
From: "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com>
Hey guys, on setting your tire in a pan of bleach to keep the rodents out: Drag racers used to burn out in bleach to make the rubber soft to get off the line quicker. My neighbors used to buy cheap tires at the beginning of winter when they lived in Alaska, put a bit of bleach on them at intervals all winter long to soften the rubber for good traction on ice. It worked, but the wear rate was teriffic. Of course, if you always fly off grass it might not matter. Larry the MicroMong guy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 17, 2002
Subject: Re: firestar limits
In a message dated 3/17/02 10:09:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, ul15rhb(at)juno.com writes: > My Original Firestar has a Vne of 80 and that is conservative with a > 5-rib wing (don't ask how I know this). Your 7-rib wing will be a little > higher. > > Ralph Burlingame > Original Firestar > 15 years flying it > > I have only the KX with 5 rib wing and as I recall it was Vne at 75 also although I have been past 80 on ocassion. GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Subject: Axle fittings
Date: Mar 17, 2002
I started mounting the wheels this weekend and had a little trouble. The axle fittings were powder-coated and of course this reduces the ID of the fitting, so I chucked up a piece of 5/16 tubing with a slot in the end that I wrap a piece of sand paper belt around and did a little "honing". This went fine. But when I tried to get the axles themselves into the fittings it was a no go. I honed the inside of the fitting and did the "shoe shine boy" motion on the axles themselves. They are all polished smooth as silk. The axles barely go in the fittings at all. Can I run a reamer in the fitting or keep sanding on the axle? Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)ldl.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Axle fittings
Can I run a reamer in the > fitting or keep sanding on the axle? > > Jeremy Casey Jeremy/Gents: Probably got some welding turds (burn through) inside the axle fitting. Get a piece of aluminum tubing the same ID as the fitting (5/8) and try to push it through. It will show you where the turds are. Use a burr grinder or keep on using the emery paper and drill routin. I don't think I would try running a reamer through it. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2002
From: tom sabean <sabean(at)ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Leveling the cage
Anyone have any good hints on how to level the cage prior to attaching the wings? The new Mark 111 Xtra builders manual says not to use a level. Any suggestions appreciated. Tom Sabean Building Mark 111 Xtra ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: replacing a tire
From: erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
Date: Mar 18, 2002
03/18/2002 05:21:34 PM Greetings. I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims. After much groaning and cursing I got the old tire off, and now need to get the new one on and sealed. I currently have the new tire on one half rim, but am not sure of the best way to expand the bead out to get onto the other half rim and seal. I'll bet someone out there has a few hard-earned tips for me. Also, there is an o-ring that goes between the two rim halfs. Should I be using silicon to help hold and seal the o-ring in place? I really dont want to struggle through all this only to find that the thing leaks air thanks, Erich Weaver erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100 Santa Barbara, California 93117 Tel: 805-964-6010 fax: 805-964 0259 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: replacing a tire
> > >Greetings. > >I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims. Put a tube in it and make it easy on yourself. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2002
Subject: Re: replacing a tire
From: Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
A tube wont make the tire go over the rim easier. I usually put the tire over my vise, expand the vise jaws and leave it there for 15 minutes or so. That will stretch the tire so it will slide over the rim easier. I fought with an Azuza wheel for half a day before I figured that out. Ross > From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 05:41:53 -0500 > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: replacing a tire > > >> >> >> Greetings. >> >> I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims. > > > Put a tube in it and make it easy on yourself. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: replacing a tire
I > really dont want to struggle through all this only to find that the thing > leaks air > > thanks, > > Erich Weaver Hi Eric/Gents: First, break the bead with two pieces of 1X2's or 2X4"'s and a C Clamp. Next, go down town and buy two inner tubes. 6X6 or 4X6 will work fine. Third, throw the o ring away. Fourth, seat the beads with a little water, or soapy water, and air pressure. Yesterday I removed the 6.00X6 McCreary Air Tracs from my upgraded MATCO's and reinstalled 8.00X6 McCreary Air Tracs. Broke the beads with the heal of my deck shoe. Was amazed and extremely happy. Once it took the die grinder and a cut off wheel to cut the wire bead of the 8X6s on my old UL Matcos. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2002
From: Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: replacing a tire
Erich, Possum's got a point, but if you insist on tubeless...... step one: throw away the o-ring, step two: put the tire in between the two halves and bolt them together, step three: a nice neat ring of black (so you can see it) silicone seal at the split.--let assy rest for at least four hours at room temp. step four: pressurize enough to pop bead --put in 10 lbs and set aside for another day. step five: adjust press to appropriate firmness for your weight aircraft. ---fly. --BB Possum wrote: > > > > > > >Greetings. > > > >I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims. > > Put a tube in it and make it easy on yourself. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 18, 2002
Subject: Re: replacing a tire
In a message dated 3/18/02 5:41:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, possums(at)mindspring.com writes: > Put a tube in it and make it easy on yourself. > > > Amen!! With a tube, you'll get a lot less leaks. Around here [SC], we have lots of "sand spurs". The guys with no tubes are constantly fixing flats; I have never had one. I also use a 4 ply rated tire; I think it's a little thicker than a 2 ply rated. Shack FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: replacing a tire
Let air pressure do the work for you. Put your tire on the rim and reassemble your split rim wheel. Reuse the o ring. It seals the two halves. Make sure all the bolts are reinstalled and tightened. Remove the valve steam core using a valve steam removal tools. Save for reinstallation later. Take a little dish detergent (soap) and water mixed together and swap it around the bead of the tire where it would seal with the rim. Tie a of piece of good size diameter rope (5/16-3/8') around the circumference (tread area) of the tire. Put a stick thru the rope and start twisting it, this will cause the rope around the circumference of the tire to shrink and make the tire balloon out to make contact with the sides of the rim. Don't over do it. Use extreme caution with this next step. Take a air hose and air into the valve stem. Keep your fingers away from the bead of the tire and the rim, when it catches air it expands very suddenly and hard, faster than your reflexes. If it does catch air immediately, bounce the tire up and down on the rim a little, if still does catch tie the rope and little more. When it catches it expand and snap out to the edges of the rim. When it does this stop immediately injecting air and loosen the rope. Do not continue to pump air in with the rope on the wheel. On auto tire I've seen it shear a 1/4" bolt of like there was nothing to it, lots of force developed. If the tire deflates and drops back of the rim, reinstall the valve stem core, and retighten the rope and repeat the process, but again once it catches cease injecting air into the tire. Loosen the rope, take it off and finish airing it up. Some times it takes a little pressure built up in the tire after the rope is removed to get the tires beads to snap out to the seated positions on the rims. This should work but do be careful. jerryb > > >Greetings. > >I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims. >After much groaning and cursing I got the old tire off, and now need to get >the new one on and sealed. I currently have the new tire on one half rim, >but am not sure of the best way to expand the bead out to get onto the >other half rim and seal. I'll bet someone out there has a few hard-earned >tips for me. Also, there is an o-ring that goes between the two rim halfs. >Should I be using silicon to help hold and seal the o-ring in place? I >really dont want to struggle through all this only to find that the thing >leaks air > >thanks, > >Erich Weaver >erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com >130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100 >Santa Barbara, California 93117 > >Tel: 805-964-6010 >fax: 805-964 0259 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net>
Subject: Re: Leveling the cage
Date: Mar 19, 2002
Tom, The first version of the Xtra construction manual called for using a plumb bob tied to the center of the 1 inch square main spar carry through tube, and the line hanging down in front of the 6 inch boom tube connection. shim the sides of the fuse until the line intersects the center of the boom tube. your cage will level side to side. This sounds really simple until you realize there are several other smaller tubes in the way. This is the case with the original Xtras. About all you can do is shim the fuse so the point of the bob is touching the top center of the boom tube. Good luck Guy Swenson MKIII Xtra ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom sabean" <sabean(at)ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Kolb-List: Leveling the cage > > Anyone have any good hints on how to level the cage prior to attaching > the wings? > The new Mark 111 Xtra builders manual says not to use a level. Any > suggestions appreciated. > Tom Sabean > Building Mark 111 Xtra > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 19, 2002
Subject: Re: replacing a tire
A very light coat of silicone on the o-ring. Take a thick rope or band and make a tourniquet around the tire,then tighten it up with a stick to expand the tire the fill. David Snyder Building FSII Long Branch N.J. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: replacing a tire
> Tie a of piece of good size diameter rope (5/16-3/8') around the > circumference (tread area) of the tire. Put a stick thru the rope and > start twisting it, this will cause the rope around the circumference of the > tire to shrink and make the tire balloon out to make contact with the sides > of the rim. Don't over do it. > > Use extreme caution with this next step. > Take a air hose and air into the valve stem. Keep your fingers away from > the bead of the tire and the rim, when it catches air it expands very > suddenly and hard, faster than your reflexes. If it does catch air > immediately, bounce the tire up and down on the rim a little, if still does > catch tie the rope and little more. > > When it catches it expand and snap out to the edges of the rim. When it > does this stop immediately injecting air and loosen the rope. Do not > continue to pump air in with the rope on the wheel. On auto tire I've seen > it shear a 1/4" bolt of like there was nothing to it, lots of force > developed. If the tire deflates and drops back of the rim, reinstall the > valve stem core, and retighten the rope and repeat the process, but again > once it catches cease injecting air into the tire. Loosen the rope, take > it off and finish airing it up. Some times it takes a little pressure > built up in the tire after the rope is removed to get the tires beads to > snap out to the seated positions on the rims. > > This should work but do be careful. > > jerryb Erich/jerryb/Gang: All of the above can be eliminated with a tube plus slow leaks. The Possum and the Hawk have spoke, and I think a few other have also. :-) john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com>
Subject: Thanks for the reply
Date: Mar 19, 2002
Thanks for the replies about wrong tube. Yup TNK sent the wrong drawings. I called and they will be sending more drawings and tubes. Now as a Draftsman I know that no set of drawing goes out of the shop 100%. But frankly the level of mistakes that I have seen so far in my drawing set are unacceptable. Drawings need to be proofed, often proofing the drawings are done by the same people doing the drawing, and that is a recipe for mistakes. I will give a drawing that one student makes to another student to see if the second student can reproduce the original drawing from the given information. This will show up missed dimension etc... very quickly.. Now I don't expect TNK to do this but having an outside proofer that knows aircraft construction but not this project would have shown some of the mistakes. Since this is my first powered aircraft I expect that the plans be of a quality that will give me the confidence in the aircraft that you need to have in a first time project. Nit picking I don't think so just a demand for quality from first rivet to last. ( I can only hope my building skills are up to the task :) ) Ken James Drafting Design Instructor Berks Career and Technology Center 3307 Freidensburg Rd. Oley Pa. 19547 610-987-6201 Ext 3532 Kdjames(at)berkscareer.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: changing the rule
Anybody who has a very light plane and wants it at an airport already has that option and you CANNOT keep them out. It's called Experimental - Part 91. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) >Steve and others, > >There are ultralight pilots who know the rules and practice them, but can >you imagine the mess we're going to have at airports when SP becomes >legal? I'm all for keeping the very light planes (330 lbs or less) out >of airports. All we have to do is raise 103 weight limits to take care of >many of these fat ultralights. > >Ralph Burlingame >Original Firestar >(slightly 'fat' ultralight) > > --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: replacing a tire
There have been several ideas offered on how to get a tire to come loose from the rims, here is a good one I have seen. One of our locals took an old 2'X4' scrap of 1" plywood, cut a hole in it near one side that is slightly bigger than the diameter of the rim. He lays the tire on the ground, lays the plywood on the tire with the hole just above the rim, and drives his pickup truck onto the plywood. Redneck physics at it's best. Just be careful you don't get the plywood misaligned... Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >Greetings. > >I am struggling to replace one of my tubeless tires on my Matco split rims. >After much groaning and cursing I got the old tire off, >thanks, > >Erich Weaver >erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com >130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100 >Santa Barbara, California 93117 > >Tel: 805-964-6010 >fax: 805-964 0259 > > --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2002
From: Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: training
Kolbers, the suggestion made of hordes of new pilots swarming the skies without appropriate instruction in the courtesies of flight ....... First, I doubt that there will be that much of an increase in aviation (although any improvement around here would be welcome). Second, although being in the past as bad a scoflaw as any, my flight training included VERY definite rules and practices regarding pattern flying, entries, etc. This is the most important aspect of flying--outranking navigation, pretty landings, leather flight jackets. Seems there are a few who think "uncontrolled airport" means flying directly over the strip at pattern altitude and cutting in downwind , ignoring pattern altitude, straight-ins. --If it's YOUR strip, fine, otherwise get in line with the rest of us --BB, back down off his soapbox ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: replacing a tire
Be aware that you just can't always walk in and just buy a tube by size, it must also have the valve stem oriented properly to match your wheel. We have a tire center in our area that carries a number of different tubes and can order them, they don't carry them all. jerryb > > > > Tie a of piece of good size diameter rope (5/16-3/8') around the > > circumference (tread area) of the tire. Put a stick thru the rope and > > start twisting it, this will cause the rope around the circumference of the > > tire to shrink and make the tire balloon out to make contact with the sides > > of the rim. Don't over do it. > > > > Use extreme caution with this next step. > > Take a air hose and air into the valve stem. Keep your fingers away from > > the bead of the tire and the rim, when it catches air it expands very > > suddenly and hard, faster than your reflexes. If it does catch air > > immediately, bounce the tire up and down on the rim a little, if still does > > catch tie the rope and little more. > > > > When it catches it expand and snap out to the edges of the rim. When it > > does this stop immediately injecting air and loosen the rope. Do not > > continue to pump air in with the rope on the wheel. On auto tire I've seen > > it shear a 1/4" bolt of like there was nothing to it, lots of force > > developed. If the tire deflates and drops back of the rim, reinstall the > > valve stem core, and retighten the rope and repeat the process, but again > > once it catches cease injecting air into the tire. Loosen the rope, take > > it off and finish airing it up. Some times it takes a little pressure > > built up in the tire after the rope is removed to get the tires beads to > > snap out to the seated positions on the rims. > > > > This should work but do be careful. > > > > jerryb > >Erich/jerryb/Gang: > >All of the above can be eliminated with a tube plus slow >leaks. > >The Possum and the Hawk have spoke, and I think a few other >have also. :-) > >john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2002
Subject: Re: changing the rule
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
> > Anybody who has a very light plane and wants it at an airport > already has > that option and you CANNOT keep them out. It's called Experimental - > Part 91. > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Richard, As an ex air traffic controller, I hope that you can see the writing on the wall. Try having a powered parachute land at your local airport. I'm not talking down ppc's but this is what is going to happen along with many fat ultralights when they get those N-numbers. By the way, ppc pilots enjoy what they are doing as well as what we do. A number of them are ex military or private pilots wanting to get away from regulation and fly low and slow. I suspect the bulk of the ppc pilots will not make the transition to SP and if they do, look for them in the pattern. Worse yet, think about the guy at your local airport flying a high performance 912 powered Titan Tornado piloted after 20 hours of training and has a history of heart problems, yet drives his SUV to the airport. If this is what the flying public wants, this is what the flying public is going to get! Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar (satisfied flying out of a grass strip as a little 'ol ultralight) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: changing the rule
> Gosh ........ I wonder if I qualify as an 'aviator' ? > > (probably not in John's book .....) > > Ralph Burlingame > Original Firestar > 15 years flying it Ralph/Gang: If you fly and comply with the regs that covers ultralight vehicles, you probably are. If you don't, you probably aren't. If you aren't, it would probably help to get into the regs and AIM a little. A lot of good info in there. Folks that fly ultralights who are not aviators, are folks that give ultralighting a black eye. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: changing the rule
> Ralph Burlingame > Original Firestar > (satisfied flying out of a grass strip as a little 'ol ultralight) Ralph/Gents/Ladies(?): I am happy you are satisfied flying out of a grass strip, but you keep forgetting, you probably are not a legal ultralight. You probably do not comply with Part 103. Your post yesterday reference the reason "fat ultralights" came into existence, because of bigger heavier engines, does not carry much water with me, and I am sure it won't carry much water with the FAA. I could see no justification to change the rule for those reasons. Problems with traffic of grossly different airspeeds, i.e., ultralights in GA traffic patterns, has been dealt with since and before Part 103 came into existence. I fly about the same speeds now as I did with my Ultrastar and Firestar. I have been able to coexist with GA traffic. Try Addison, Texas, Jet Port. Flew out of there for 3 days June 1998. The tower operators and I worked together and we had no problems, especially when they found out what the MK III was capable of, i.e., extremely tight circles on close in down wind to give a jet time to land, or breaking left or right out of the runway line right after lift off to give the jet behind me clearance to take off or land. It worked very smoothly. Dead Horse, Alaska: Uncontrolled airport/jetport. Many single engine Pipers/Cessnas and my MK III have operated out of that airport when I was there in 1994 and 2001. Prince George, BC, White Horse, YT, Fairbanks, AK, Minot, ND, Glacier National Park, MT, and on and on. Aviation folks can live together safely and happily. We did it in VN, rotary wing, jet traffic, recip traffic. We do it in the States. I have been flying out of my cow pasture since July 1984. Flew out of it yesterday and today. Hope I can keep on keeping on. Please to not interpret my email incorrectly. I do not fly in to controlled airports unless I have a reason to fly there. I am not authorized to fly anywhere I need a Mode C Transponder cause I don't have one and do not need one. I think I have shown folks that I can fly to some pretty interesting places without that extra black box. If I need to get into an airport that requires mode c, like my hometown of TLH, FL, then I make a call to the Tower by land line and ask permission. They give me a window and here I come. I have also made the request by radio, in flight, been picked up on their radar, and given permission to land. A lot depends on their workload and the personality of the controller. Most airports welcome the business. The more operations they can justify the more funds Uncle Sugar gives them to operate, or sumthin like that. I do not make a habit of it, and prefer little uncontrolled airports. Better yet if they are grass instead of pavement. I hope they change Part 103 so you will be legal. It feels much more comfortable to be that way. Been flying legal since 1990. Very illegal prior to that time. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Lessons Learned
Morning Gang: Here is a url for a problem encountered by Ed Dart, a young man who has been flying trikes for about two years. He seemed to have no fear of flying great distances over the US and even mentioned to me that he was about ready to try Alaska. Ed, although flown a lot of long cross country flights, still lacked some good aviator skills that could only be obtained by training and a lot of experience. He fearlessly did a lot of daring things and got away with it, for a while. Then it bit him square in the ass and he was not prepared for what he experienced. You may want to read the rest of the web site before you read of his crash. This may help you understand the importance of "good" training and preparation prior to tangling with the experience of serious cross country flying. This is the home page: http://www.ulsafaris.com/SharkBait.htm This is the "crash" page: http://www.ulsafaris.com/Crash.htm Ed Dart's crash was a good reminder to me also. No one is immune to "Murphy". Ignore "Murphy" and you will surely have an unexpected meeting with him at the most inopportune time. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org>
Subject: Large head rivets
Date: Mar 20, 2002
I have seen some here seeking a source for the large head, aluminum rivets used to attach the fabric on the Kolb wing. I found them at www.rivetsplus.com. The part # for the 1/8" X 1/8" with a 3/8" dia. dome head is AD42BSLE and they are sold in boxes of 100 @ $7.37/100. Dale Sellers do not achieve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Large head rivets
> I have seen some here seeking a source for the large head, aluminum rivets > used to attach the fabric on the Kolb wing. I found them at > www.rivetsplus.com. The part # for the 1/8" X 1/8" with a 3/8" dia. dome > head is AD42BSLE and they are sold in boxes of 100 @ $7.37/100. > > Dale Sellers Dale/Gents: Do these rivets meet the same strength requirements as Polyfiber Fabric Rivets: ****************************************************** Fabric Rib Rivets Blind rib rivets. Comes 100 in a bag. All aluminum 1/8" diameter body, 3/8" diameter head, .031 to .125 grip range, 156 lbs. shear, 235 lbs. tensile. ****************************************************** I have found some alum large head rivets purchased from other than Stitts/Polyfiber sources are not nearly as strong. Here is a good source of fabric rivets and other covering materials: http://www.aircrafttechsupport.com/ john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2002
Subject: Re: Lessons Learned
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
writes: > > Morning Gang: > > Here is a url for a problem encountered by Ed Dart, a young > man who has been flying trikes for about two years. He > seemed to have no fear of flying great distances over the US > and even mentioned to me that he was about ready to try > Alaska. Ed, although flown a lot of long cross country > flights, still lacked some good aviator skills that could > only be obtained by training and a lot of experience. He > fearlessly did a lot of daring things and got away with it, > for a while. Then it bit him square in the ass and he was > not prepared for what he experienced. You may want to read > the rest of the web site before you read of his crash. This > may help you understand the importance of "good" training > and preparation prior to tangling with the experience of > serious cross country flying. > > This is the home page: > > http://www.ulsafaris.com/SharkBait.htm > > This is the "crash" page: > > http://www.ulsafaris.com/Crash.htm > > Ed Dart's crash was a good reminder to me also. No one is > immune to "Murphy". Ignore "Murphy" and you will surely > have an unexpected meeting with him at the most inopportune > time. > > Take care, > > john h John and others, I emailed Ed Dart on 12/3/01 when I saw his webpage in the internet. He didn't replace or inspect the bolt that failed before his trip but instead talked with another trike owner. That trike owner said it would be ok. The bolt wasn't even A/N and I was taken back by that. I think he learned a good one. Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it Ed wrote: It wasn't a Jesus bolt that broke it was the main bolt. The reason for the use of the non aircraft bolt is as follows; The wing was US and the trike was Metric, I was told to drill out the wing coupling to the larger metric size and use an 8.8 grade metric bolt. In Europe the 8.8 grade metric bolt is the bolt of choice and should have done the job. It appears the bolt may have been defective, it has been sent to be tested. I will let everyone know once I know something. Ed Dart ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com>
Subject: Fw: Zenith-List: Avemco/EAA ties
Date: Mar 20, 2002
Im posting this from the Zenith list.... Ive been following this thread for a while and now its a little more clearer whats going on with this sorry excuse for an insurance company (IMHO)... you know, they always have a booth at Sun n Fun... I guess Ill have to stop by this time and say hello......! Im upset because I got my renewal for liability insurance for RENTALS and it went way up............ nothing to do with experimentals... they are socking it to everybody...but their CRIME is not raising rates... that's business.. their CRIME is not communicating with their customers as to what is going on with rate hikes and policy cancellations! Its about time EAA started communicating with their members... sounds like they're starting to: > --> Zenith-List message posted by: Gary Liming > > > To Zenith List, > > I wrote to the EAA as below, and I did get this response from Joe Norris of > the EAA: > > >From: Joe Norris <jnorris(at)eaa.org> > >To: 'Gary Liming' > >Subject: RE: Avemco/EAA ties > >Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 17:49:24 -0600 > >X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19) > > > >Gary, > > > >Thanks for your note, and I appreciate your situation and feelings. The > >fact is, Avemco is currently undergoing some major management changes, and > >has recently made some decisions on insurance without EAA's knowledge. In > >fact, we were made aware of the situation through a call from a member, and > >were just as surprised as you are now. > > > >Please understand that EAA is working hard to rectify this situation, or > >find alternate solutions. Officials from Avemco are coming to EAA > >headquarters early next week, and we plan on having some serious discussions > >with them regarding all manner of aviation insurance. We hope to be able to > >find solutions to the immediate problem, and to assure that similar problems > >won't come up in the future. > > > >We are also looking at what other alternatives might be available to us. > >However, we don't have any solid info to pass along at this time. I ask for > >your patience in this frustrating time, and hope that you'll keep a close > >watch on the EAA web site and Sport Aviation magazine for news of > >developments on this issue. > > > >Please let me know if you have further questions or comments. > > > >Joe Norris > >EAA Aviation Information Services > >EAA Aviation Center, Oshkosh, WI > >888-322-4636, extension 6806 > >jnorris(at)eaa.org > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Gary Liming [mailto:gary(at)liming.org] > >Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 5:35 PM > >To: infoserv(at)eaa.org > >Subject: Avemco/EAA ties > > > >I just had a dissapointing call to Avemco. > > > >I am currently building a Zenith CH801 (that's the one whose panel is > >displayed on the main page of the Homebuilders website banner.) and am > >getting ready to make the engine selection. I hope to fly it to Airventure > >next year for the First Flight program. > > > >I picked the Zenith CH801 because Zenith has such a good safety record > >(never had a structural failure) and they have such good safety and > >completion records. > > > >I called Avemco because they are promoted by the EAA web site and > >participate in the EAA Flight Advisors and Tech Counselor programs. > > > >Imagine my surprise when I was told that Avemco no longer will insure any > >of the kit planes offered by Zenith! They said they will still insure a > >few of the RV's, but they were cutting back on writing any policies for > >them, too. > > > >If Avemco wants to get out of the kitplane insurance business, that's their > >decision. I can't understand why the EAA would promote Avemco on their > >website when they are refusing to underwrite policies for their > >homebuilders. Could you explain to me what is going on? > > > >Please note that I am not building anything unusual - a standard Zenith kit > >with a certified engine. > > > >Can the EAA offer me any help for insuring my plane? > > > >Thanks, > > > >Gary Liming > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 15 Msgs - 03/18/02
Date: Mar 19, 2002
Ralph and Group: It is not my intent to rain on anyone's parade but why a limit of 330 pounds? Why not 450 or 500? Why are we fixating on a weight limit. Also, why do we limit gas to 5 gallons or even 10 gallons? What are we trying to accomplish? As long as it is a true single seat, why do we select an arbitrary weigh and fuel limit? As soon as we set a limit on those items we will be right back to the same old game of trying to push the limits. Please don't misunderstand. I support increased weight and increased fuel but I wonder why we are forced into thinking about these limits instead of what we really want. What are we trying to accomplish with 103? "The freedom to fly as long as that freedom does not impose a danger on others?" Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 21, 2002
From: <wecounselman3(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Why Weight, Speed and Fuel Limits on 103
Vic writes: > why a limit of 330 > why do we limit gas to 5 gallons or even 10 gallons? > What are we trying to > accomplish? It is my understanding that part 103 sets limits such as 254 lbs, 55 kts and 5 gallons of fuel in order to limit the damage an ultralight vehicle can do when it impacts something on the ground. Without such limits the FAA is never going to allow unlicensed pilots to fly unregulated aircraft. ===== http://movies.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 21, 2002
From: "Lloyd O'Dell" <wander10(at)infi.net>
Subject: Tachometer
Kolb Builders, I am building a Firestar II with a 503 engine, and I need some technical advice. I did not receive paper work with my UMA Inc. tachometer. It has three wires coming out the rear, a red, a white, and a black. I assume the black is for ground. My question is what wire do I hook to the gray wire on the engine and what do I do with the other wire? Lloyd O'Dell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Radios at SnF
Date: Mar 21, 2002
Well, Sports Fans, SnF approacheth, and I gotta question................ Those little FRS, 14 channel radios that my friends and I borrowed for the whale watching trip worked so well, that I went out and bought a pair of my own, which I plan on bringing to SnF. Problem.................... apparently you can't buy good quality FRS radios any more, just kid's toys, so I bought a pair of Motorola Talkabout, T6400 radios, and they work extremely well............I'm very impressed with them. They are GMRS radios, and supposedly require a license. (which I do have) They also have a 5 mile range, compared to 2 mile for the older ones. They have the original 14 channels, plus a bunch more, up to 22. My question regards the security codes. Which security code on the GMRS will allow me to talk to an FRS radio, on, say, channels 1 thru 7 ?? The instructions don't say. I know some of you plan on bringing radios to Snf.............what channel do you want to use ?? From reading the instructions, it seems like 1 - 7 would work the best for me. How else are we going to identify each other ?? I plan to wear my EAA chapter ID badge on my Kolb hat, and wear my fancy Kolb T shirt. I'll be the good lookin' guy with all the ladies throwing themselves at my feet. ( Don't I wish..............they'll prob'ly throw rocks.) Gogittum Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Radios at SnF
Date: Mar 21, 2002
Yah, but these things have "security codes." How do they interface with the older FRS radios ?? Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radios at SnF > > Larry/Gang: > > I have a pair of T6250's. They are on sale at Office Max > for 34.95 each, about half price. I got the 5100's or > 5200's from West Marine (29.95 a pair), but Nell and I > discovered without the ability to go between channels, we > were covered up with traffic most of the time (in the > casinos). I imagine Sun and Fun area will be pretty > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rayfield, Don" <drayfiel(at)kcc.com>
Subject: Radio's at SnF
Date: Mar 22, 2002
Re: Hawk 36's message about sitting in miss P'fer: I feel honored to have gotten a ride with John at the UN-flyin at London last fall. That is absolutely one awsome performing aircraft. Several of us got rides with John while there. You can tell he has a lot of hours in her and he really knows what he's doing. He even did a Gantt International landing with me. That consisted of a steep decent with flaps, then leveling off a few feet from the ground, and a smooooth landing and stopping in a short run out. so you'll be just a passenger. That's OK with me though. My son and I also got rides in the factory Kolbra when we picked up our kit at London in October. That's another fine A/C. I just hope our's performs as well. Thanks again John. This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy. Thank you. ============================================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rayfield, Don" <drayfiel(at)kcc.com>
Subject: Radio's at SnF
Date: Mar 22, 2002
For some unknown reason a sentence was left out of my note.After the smoooth landing sentence I wanted to say: By the way "Big Lar" the passenger control stick is removed so you'll just be a passenger. -----Original Message----- From: Rayfield, Don [mailto:drayfiel(at)kcc.com] Subject: Kolb-List: Radio's at SnF Re: Hawk 36's message about sitting in miss P'fer: I feel honored to have gotten a ride with John at the UN-flyin at London last fall. That is absolutely one awsome performing aircraft. Several of us got rides with John while there. You can tell he has a lot of hours in her and he really knows what he's doing. He even did a Gantt International landing with me. That consisted of a steep decent with flaps, then leveling off a few feet from the ground, and a smooooth landing and stopping in a short run out. so you'll be just a passenger. That's OK with me though. My son and I also got rides in the factory Kolbra when we picked up our kit at London in October. That's another fine A/C. I just hope our's performs as well. Thanks again John. This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy. Thank you. ============================================================================ == -- This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy. Thank you. ============================================================================ == This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy. Thank you. ============================================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 03/21/02
Date: Mar 22, 2002
Hey John and others, Mulberry, South Lakeland Airport X49 is ultralight friendly, has camping, has a shuttle, and only 5 minutes from Sun-N-Fun. Jay Kurtz is the owner 863-425-8655, thought I pass it on. Hans van Alphen Kolb Mark III Xtra BMW powered - 10 hrs. > original message If it get too tough to fly >at Lakeland, we can always go down to South Lakeland (Circle >X). Those folks have gotten real ultralight friendly down >there. Used to try and charge us to fly in there during >S&F. Who knows, they may still require a landing fee. >Blackwater Creek is always available, but is further away >from Lakeland Airport. > >john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2002
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Free Thunderbird, Blue Angels videos
Free Thunderbird, Blue Angels videos I've got 5 copies of a Thunderbirds / Blue Angles video which we'll give away for Free to the first 5 people who ask for it along with any other regular order from Builder's Bookstore. It's a 50 minute video, 1/2 on the Thunderbirds, and 1/2 on the Blue Angels. The Thunderbird segment is excellent. The Blue Angels section is not as good. To get one, just write FREE THUNDERBIRDS VIDEO in the special instructions box on the Builder's Bookstore on-line order form, or say so if you prefer to order something by phone. Also, in case you are caller #6 or later, note if your regular order depends on whether there is a free video left to include in your package. Andy Builder's Bookstore http://buildersbooks.com 800 780-4115 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Handheld CB Test
Date: Mar 22, 2002
Earlier this month I wrote that I had ordered a handheld radio for use at the Lakeland fly-in and would report on the result. I ordered a pair pf Cobra Model FRS 220 radios from premier(at)hotbuy4u.com . They shipped them the same day by U.S. Mail. A full description of all their radios and other stuff is presented in their on-line catalog. The radios arrived in bubble-pack and in good shape but sans batteries. These are re-manufactured units. Each radio takes 4 AAA alkalines which were a little snug in the battery compartment. The instructions are adequate even for the number of functions this unit has. It has the 14 FM Family Radio Service (FRS) channels plus thirty-seven sub channels, a Calling button, battery indicator etc. We field tested the main functions by increasing the distance between them as we used the incoming call signal then talking and listening. The reception was good from inside the house to a location 1/2 mile through the woods. The "up to 2 mile range" is very optimistic and would only be possible on line-of-site transmissions. Since there are no hills at Lakeland the only obstructions would be trees and buildings so the caller would have to step out of the metal buildings to call and hope the receiver would not be more than a mile away. These are still good for the money and will be handy at SnF if we can set up a Kolb frequency. Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 115 Hrs, MK3/912 Classic in the workshop ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2002
Subject: the very slow and the very fast
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Hi Vic and others, By limiting the weight to 330 lbs, it would keep many fat ul's that would be too slow for landing patterns out of the airports. Under Sport Pilot, ALL aircraft (fixed-wings, trikes, and ppc's) over 254 lbs will be allowed into airports where they are NOT welcome. The 330 lb limit was chosen as a very modest increase in weight that will allow the FAA to look at it more favorably and accomplish our goal of complete separation between very slow ultralights and very fast aircraft. Not a good idea to mix the very slow and the very fast aircraft at an airport. Under Sport Pilot we ALL will be 'aircraft' and if this is what the flying public wants, this is what the flying public is going to get! Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it (even faster than most) > > Ralph and Group: > > It is not my intent to rain on anyone's parade but why a limit of > 330 > pounds? Why not 450 or 500? Why are we fixating on a weight limit. > Also, > why do we limit gas to 5 gallons or even 10 gallons? What are we > trying to > accomplish? > > As long as it is a true single seat, why do we select an arbitrary > weigh and > fuel limit? As soon as we set a limit on those items we will be > right back > to the same old game of trying to push the limits. > > Please don't misunderstand. I support increased weight and > increased fuel > but I wonder why we are forced into thinking about these limits > instead of > what we really want. What are we trying to accomplish with 103? > > "The freedom to fly as long as that freedom does not impose a danger > on > others?" > > Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TCowan1917(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 23, 2002
Subject: Re: Mulberry, South Lakeland Airport
Our gang at Southern Flyers Ultralite Association stayed there a couple of years ago and it was wonderful. I RV'D in and a few others did also. Towed the ole Firestar and had a ball. good tie down area. camping, showers, water, most important, shuttle to the SNF area. you are only a few minutes away from that fun but you can FLY WHENEVER you want to where - ever you want from there. Cost a few bucks a day but would do it again in a heartbeat if I was going to Sun-un-Fun. Ted ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene Vickery" <h2opilot(at)cwo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest
Date: Mar 23, 2002
Ralph, I don't understand. To my knowledge there is nothing in the Federal Aviation Regulations nor in the Sport Pilot proposal that prohibits ANY aircraft from operations at any public use airport. True, there may be specific requirements, such as contacting the control tower before entering Class D airspace, and there may be special procedures for different kinds of flying machines such as helicopters and ultralights. And I agree it may not be safe to mix "very slow traffic" with "very fast traffic" in the same pattern at an airport. You wrote, "Under Sport Pilot we ALL will be 'aircraft'...." FAR definition from Subchapter A, Part 1, Section 1.1: "Aircraft means a device that us used or intended to be used for flight in the air." The FAR's also say, "Pilot in command means the person who: (1) Has final authority and responsibility for the operation and safety of the flight...." So by those formal definitions you and I are both pilots flying aircraft, you in your Firestar and me in my certified general aviation light plane. And we probably both enjoy flight for the same reasons; to experience the magic. I have been a GA pilot for nearly 50 years and recently landed at a small airport in Southern Oregon where there is a lot of ultralight activity. I was amazed at the perceived conflict the UL pilots had with the GA pilots. The UL pilots seemed to think the GA pilots looked down on them, and had developed what I can best describe as "outlaw defensive" attitudes....some of which is expressed on this site. The perception is false. We're all pilots and we're all operating aircraft. And most of us fly for the same reasons whether we fly "very slow ultralights" or "very fast aircraft". You're welcome to fly into my home airport any time....and I'll make room for you in the pattern. Gene Vickery Tehachapi, California Hi Vic and others, By limiting the weight to 330 lbs, it would keep many fat ul's that would be too slow for landing patterns out of the airports. Under Sport Pilot, ALL aircraft (fixed-wings, trikes, and ppc's) over 254 lbs will be allowed into airports where they are NOT welcome. The 330 lb limit was chosen as a very modest increase in weight that will allow the FAA to look at it more favorably and accomplish our goal of complete separation between very slow ultralights and very fast aircraft. Not a good idea to mix the very slow and the very fast aircraft at an airport. Under Sport Pilot we ALL will be 'aircraft' and if this is what the flying public wants, this is what the flying public is going to get! Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it (even faster than most) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
Subject: Re: tire changing post script
Date: Mar 23, 2002
03/23/2002 12:50:20 PM Took the advice and stuck a tube in my tubless tire. A final note on this for others that may be contemplating the same: For my Matco rim, the hole pattern was not exactly symmetrical - that is, I was unable to get the wheel mounted back on the plane without the two rim halves being matched up exactly the same as when I had taken them off. Doesnt seem right, but thats how it was for me. I put a small mark with a sharpie on the interior of the rim halves to show how they match up. Man, nothing is ever as simple as it should be. Regards, Erich ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 03/22/02
Date: Mar 23, 2002
I would like to see weight limit go to 341 because my Firestar with parachute and brakes weighs in at 339. The flaw in the FAA's separation reasoning is that a Champ is just about as slow as a Firestar on approach yet the Champ can legally mix it up with the biz-jet while a Firestar can't however if I license my Firestar then it can mix it up with the biz-jet. Don't read me wrong here, I don't want to mix with the biz jet. My question for the FAA, is a Firestar in the pattern with a radio a hazard while a non-radio Champ not; just because the Champ has a number on it. I have been flying out of a spray plane strip with 1500 horse power turboprop planes and they don't have radios and the pilots wouldn't use them if the had them. You can bet I kept and eagle eye out for them and stayed out of their way. Do any of you remember the H. O. Malone proposal a few years back. That made the most sense to me of any thing I have seen as a solution for fat ultralights. Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: Radios at SnF
Date: Mar 23, 2002
Kolbers, I too bought a pair (open box special!) of radios. Mine are Audiovox GMRS, 5mi. range radios. My manual says I have 15 channels & each channel has 00-38 subchannels. Channels 1-7 are identical to & compatible with the FMS, 2mi. radios. The subchannels or "codes" are not actually different frequencies, but rather, they provide a selective squelch. So if you are talking on channel 1, code 10, you would hear & respond only to others on channel 1 code 10. But if you are using an uncoded Channel 1 you will hear all the traffic on channel 1, including all the 37 (I assume 00 is uncoded) coded subchannels. So here's my proposal for our Kolb-List Sun & Fun channel: 1-7 is available to both FMS & GMRS radios. 1,3 & 7, I believe, will be the most frequently chosen numbers, so lets not pick one of them. Kolb has 4 letters so let's use Channel 4, with code or subchannel 4. That way if we forget our channel, we can just count the letters on our hat. So how about it, is 4-4 official? ...Richard Swiderski > > Yah, but these things have "security codes." How do they interface with the > older FRS radios ?? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Radios at SnF
Date: Mar 23, 2002
Sounds fine with me. Anyone else ?? I spoke with the fella at work who loaned me the 2 FRS radios for the Mexico trip, and he's going to bring 1 of them to work on Tuesday. Our shifts overlap 2 hours, so............if we're not busy.............we're gonna play with those radios, and see what works. His are FRS, mine are GMRS. When we get it done, I'll post the results. If 4 - 4 works, let's go for it. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radios at SnF <swiderski@advanced-connect.net> > > Kolbers, > > I too bought a pair (open box special!) of radios. Mine are Audiovox > GMRS, 5mi. range radios. My manual says I have 15 channels & each channel > has 00-38 subchannels. Channels 1-7 are identical to & compatible with the > FMS, 2mi. radios. > The subchannels or "codes" are not actually different frequencies, but > rather, they provide a selective squelch. So if you are talking on channel > 1, code 10, you would hear & respond only to others on channel 1 code 10. > But if you are using an uncoded Channel 1 you will hear all the traffic on > channel 1, including all the 37 (I assume 00 is uncoded) coded subchannels. > So here's my proposal for our Kolb-List Sun & Fun channel: 1-7 is > available to both FMS & GMRS radios. 1,3 & 7, I believe, will be the most > frequently chosen numbers, so lets not pick one of them. Kolb has 4 letters > so let's use Channel 4, with code or subchannel 4. That way if we forget > our channel, we can just count the letters on our hat. > So how about it, is 4-4 official? > ...Richard Swiderski > > > > > > Yah, but these things have "security codes." How do they interface with > the > > older FRS radios ?? > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Flycrazy8(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 23, 2002
Subject: any "flying circus" members
greetings, I recently acquired a replica of a 1917 Fokker DV11. In putting it together I have run upon a problem with the wing strut wires. I'm sure they are supposed to be a certain amount of tension on these to give proper support. Do any of you flying "Red Barrons" have any experience or helpful advice to offer me. It will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 24, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes: > > You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone needs > to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much until > early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell ph. > #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those little > radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas. > Time to start planning! > ...Richard Swiderski > Richard, If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your trailer Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to get an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store and buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking about 6:30 pm? What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on us? Jim and Dondi too! Steven Green ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
SGreenpg(at)aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, > swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes: > > > > > You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone needs > > to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much until > > early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell ph. > > #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those little > > radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas. > > Time to start planning! > > ...Richard Swiderski > > > > Richard, > If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your trailer > Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to get > an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store and > buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking about 6:30 > pm? > > What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on us? > Jim and Dondi too! > > Steven Green Steven/Richard/Gents/ Think the above is a good idea. Keep in mind, evening flight period will not be over until sundown or a little earlier. Based on the last few years, if it is not windy, the powered parachutes will get the last flight period, so, the fixed wing ultralights and lightplanes will probably be finished up around 7:00 PM. I also recommend the Kolb crew and the Millers be invited. Getting excited about getting together with the Kolb List at Lakeland. Only two weeks from today. Hope we a blessed with good weather for the entire week. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ronnie Wren" <rsweld(at)pgtv.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Mark 111
Date: Mar 24, 2002
Anyone have the thickness of Lexan material needed to replace the windshield and door coverings on my '99 Mark 111? Thanks, Rw ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2002
From: Andrew Gassmann <agassmann(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Oils
Listers, I am about to break in my new Zanzottera MZ201 engine on Firefly 052. They say Castrol TTS oil only, but that is EXPENSIVE stuff. I went through the searcher on the list, and looked at synthetics. I saw many different uses and suggestions, from Klotz to WalMart. I saw suggestions to break it in with mineral oil, then switch to synthetics, and many saying the new synthetics are superior to 10 years ago, so almost any will do. so, I am asking your experienced suggestions. Please reply off list, no use cluttering it with my requested information. Could you please reply to: agassmann(at)earthlink.net Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Mark 111
Ronnie Wren wrote: > > > Anyone have the thickness of Lexan material needed to replace > the windshield and door coverings on my '99 Mark 111? > Thanks, Rw Rw/Gang: 1/8 inch on the windshield and 1/16 on the doors. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: St Elmo, Alabama, Flyin
Good Morning Gang: My buddy, Dan Horton, and I flew Miss P'fer down to St Elmo, south of Mobile, Alabama, for their 4th Annual Flyin, yesterday. Got up at 0530 to a brisk temp of 25F. Stayed right at 40F all the way down, aprx 200 miles. Dan wore a snow machine suit, I dressed normally, with my secret weapon, the Chilly Vest, to keep me warm. Never put my gloves on the entire day. When we took off from Wetumpka, Alabama, Airport, Miss P'fer had 150 lbs of fuel (25 gal), 205 lbs of Dan, 185 lbs of me, 630 lbs of Miss P'fer, and about 25 lbs of extraneous junk on board. GW at takeoff was 1,195 lbs. We climbed out at 1,000 FPM, cruised at 85 mph at 5200 rpm. Not bad for a "fat" two place ultralight, 10 yrs old with almost 1,700 hours on her. Had a good turn out for the flyin, good food, and lots of questions to ask and answer. Was a good primer for Lakeland. I told Dan, as we were flying down, after all these years of building and flying little airplanes, that I was still amazed to be able to do what we were doing. To be able to have a box of straight tubes delivered to the house, spend a year or so in the basement measuring, cutting, drilling, riveting, bending, cussing, scratching my head; then to be able to experience flight on a beautiful Sunday morning with my friends, to be able to fly almost anywhere I choose, is truely a miracle. I think we Americans are blessed to be able to have the freedom of flight that we enjoy in the United States. Others only wish that they could do the same. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
Date: Mar 24, 2002
You're on. My cell phone # is 1-760-567-7918. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <SGreenpg(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F > > In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, > swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes: > > > > > > You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone needs > > to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much until > > early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell ph. > > #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those little > > radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas. > > Time to start planning! > > ...Richard Swiderski > > > > Richard, > If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your trailer > Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to get > an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store and > buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking about 6:30 > pm? > > What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on us? > Jim and Dondi too! > > Steven Green > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Oils
> I am about to break in my new Zanzottera MZ201 engine on Firefly 052. They > say Castrol TTS > oil only, but that is EXPENSIVE stuff. > Andy Andy/Gang: I am a firm believer that the engineers that design a particular engine know far more about that engine and about what it needs than I do. When you divert from their recommendations, then you become the engineer. Some of you may be qualified for this important job, since aerial flight is involved, but I kinda doubt it...................... Recommend, should you have a question to deviate from the operators manual, that you direct the question to the experts at the factory. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
Date: Mar 23, 2002
Kolbers, 1st of all, is anyone else having trouble with the Kolb-List? Apparently the List gets some but not all of my posts and, apparently I get some but not all of the Lists posts. I did not get Steve Green's letter that John H quoted from below, and the List did not get one of my 2 letters that I sent out last night (the one about the cookout, which I will re send & attach below John's). My computer shows both in the "Sent" box. See bottom of page for my Cookout Thoughts. ...RS ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F > > SGreenpg(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > > > In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, > > swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes: > > > > > > > > You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone needs > > > to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much until > > > early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell ph. > > > #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those little > > > radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas. > > > Time to start planning! > > > ...Richard Swiderski > > > > > > > Richard, > > If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your trailer > > Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to get > > an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store and > > buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking about 6:30 > > pm? > > > > What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on us? > > Jim and Dondi too! > > > > Steven Green > > Steven/Richard/Gents/ > > Think the above is a good idea. > > Keep in mind, evening flight period will not be over until > sundown or a little earlier. Based on the last few years, > if it is not windy, the powered parachutes will get the last > flight period, so, the fixed wing ultralights and > lightplanes will probably be finished up around 7:00 PM. > > I also recommend the Kolb crew and the Millers be invited. > > Getting excited about getting together with the Kolb List at > Lakeland. Only two weeks from today. Hope we a blessed > with good weather for the entire week. > > Take care, > > john h > > Kolbers, No official location has been decided for the Sunday Cookout, soooo, here's my proposal: I am providing my enclosed trailer with 16ft X 8ft of shade or rainproofing. I'll have 2 BBQ grills, a 2 burner stove, a corn-cooker stove, pots & pans, paper plates & utinsils, a sink, generic cooking spices, 2 coolers of ice, water, several tables, some extra chairs, & hopefully a view of the airshow. I am not a cook. If somebody wants to organize the food end I will be happy to be a helper. My Suburban is available if anyone wants to do a food run. Otherwise, here's the deal: I'll bring my grub & a little more & will anxiously await any company to come by & share supper & Kolb Talk Sunday between 5-11PM. Bring your own grub to cook or dish to share, extra chair, story to tell & we'll have stone soup & enjoy what ever happens with who ever shows up. Anyone who wants to come a little early to help set up would be appreciated. Lord willing & if the creeks don't rise, I'll pull in about 6AM Saturday. I'll try to find a spot in the NE corner of the UL TRAILER parking field, which is immediately south & adjacent to the UL Camping Area, both of which are immediately east of Paradise City. The Suburban is an '84 Red & Silver diesel. The trailer is White with Green trim & a burgandy RV awning on right side, twin axle. I'll do my best to minitor channel 4-4 on FMS & GMRS radio. Cell phone # is 352-598-4064. Please feel free to come by any time Sat-Wed if you need some shade or a place to rest. If I'm not around, make yourself at home. Pilots flying in: If you need to do a supply run, my truck is available. I'll bring some empty gas cans & a Mr. Funnel, a case of Pensoil Aircooled Oil that I need to get rid of, & some tools. ...Richard Swiderski PS: John H, how about if you officially invite the Kolb Team & our fabric friends, the Dondi's? Steve G, if you coordinate your signup list idea, I'll help anyway I can. Anyone else who wants to jump in & help with cookout, please don't be shy! Maybe I can come up with a way to put a tarp on the other side of the trailer, could use some help putting setting it up. Larry B., for the last 5 years, the only significant problem with bugs are the ants. They must be spraying real good before hand for the airborne insects. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Shellberg" <shelfarm(at)netins.net>
Subject: Original Firestar
Date: Mar 24, 2002
Hi, listers! I have a bud without a 'puter who purchased an Original Firestar - kit was purchased from Kolb in early 1990 and has 5 rib wing with 377 rotax. He would like to know what the gross weight is for this model. Does anyone remember the number? Thanks, Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2002
From: Andrew Gassmann <agassmann(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Oils
John, They do say to stick with whatever oil you use, not to flip back and forth, but they recommended the Castrol TTS. I will listen to all the super advice this list has. Thanks for the input. Andy > > > > I am about to break in my new Zanzottera MZ201 engine on Firefly 052. They > > say Castrol TTS > > oil only, but that is EXPENSIVE stuff. > > > Andy > >Andy/Gang: > >I am a firm believer that the engineers that design a >particular engine know far more about that engine and about >what it needs than I do. When you divert from their >recommendations, then you become the engineer. Some of you >may be qualified for this important job, since aerial flight >is involved, but I kinda doubt it...................... > >Recommend, should you have a question to deviate from the >operators manual, that you direct the question to the >experts at the factory. > >Take care, > >john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2002
From: beauford <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Look,my beautiful girl friend
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- multipart/alternative text/html audio/x-wav application/octet-stream --- StripMime Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
Date: Mar 24, 2002
Channel 4, Sub 4 it is. Count me in. Have truck/can travel, let me know how I can help. Duane the Plane, Tallahassee, FL, FireFly 447 / Mk3 Classic 912 From: John Hauck Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F SGreenpg(at)aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, > swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes: > > > > > You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone needs > > to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much until > > early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell ph. > > #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those little > > radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas. > > Time to start planning! > > ...Richard Swiderski > > > > Richard, > If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your trailer > Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to get > an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store and > buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking about 6:30 > pm? > > What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on us? > Jim and Dondi too! > > Steven Green Steven/Richard/Gents/ Think the above is a good idea. Keep in mind, evening flight period will not be over until sundown or a little earlier. Based on the last few years, if it is not windy, the powered parachutes will get the last flight period, so, the fixed wing ultralights and lightplanes will probably be finished up around 7:00 PM. I also recommend the Kolb crew and the Millers be invited. Getting excited about getting together with the Kolb List at Lakeland. Only two weeks from today. Hope we a blessed with good weather for the entire week. Take care, john h = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com>
Subject: Re: Look,my beautiful girl friend
Date: Mar 24, 2002
Subject: Kolb-List: Look,my beautiful girl friend > A message with no text/plain section was received. > The entire body of the message was removed. Please > resend the email using plaintext formatting Holy Smokes... with a subject line like that.........................be SURE to resend so we can all get this! Jon in Green Bay where it is COLD! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Looking for Kolb switch
Date: Mar 24, 2002
I am now trying to finish up with my MK3 electrical system and have run into a small problem. I made a spiffy little panel that fits right over the rudder cable fairleads located between the seats at the front of the aileron control tube. One switch has been mounted in the panel and I now find that I don't have one like it to mount on the other half of the panel. The switch I need is a low profile, 3 amp toggle switch with wires coming out of it. They used to be supplied as standard equipment in Old Kolb kits but I can't find them anywhere in my area. I have tried Radio Shack and the local auto parts stores with no luck. They may no longer be in production. If any of you builders have one in your spare parts stash I will be pleased to pay for the part and postage. I will try New Kolb in the morning but I'm afraid they won't have them. Duane Mitchell 6551 Crooked Creek Rd Tallahassee, FL 32311 (850) 878-9047 ----- Original Message ----- From: H MITCHELL Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F Channel 4, Sub 4 it is. Count me in. Have truck/can travel, let me know h ow I can help. Duane the Plane, Tallahassee, FL, FireFly 447 / Mk3 Classic 912 From: John Hauck Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F SGreenpg(at)aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 2/24/02 9:17:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, > swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes: > > > > > You all are welcome to have the cookout at my trailer. If anyone needs > > to get hold of me there, I am usually not around base camp much unti l > > early evening as there's soooo much to see, so we need a plan. Cell ph. > > #'s might be a big help, or maybe an agreed upon channel on those lit tle > > radios (I always wanted one of those anyway). I'm open to ideas. > > Time to start planning! > > ...Richard Swiderski > > > > Richard, > If the offer is still good let's plan on having the cook out at your tr ailer > Sunday evening. Maybe we could leave a signup sheet at you trailer to get > an idea of how many to plan for, then about 4:00 pm we go to the store and > buy the fix-ins and just divide the cost. Should we start cooking abou t 6:30 > pm? > > What do you think about inviting the Kolb factory folks for a meal on u s? > Jim and Dondi too! > > Steven Green Steven/Richard/Gents/ Think the above is a good idea. Keep in mind, evening flight period will not be over until sundown or a little earlier. Based on the last few years, if it is not windy, the powered parachutes will get the last flight period, so, the fixed wing ultralights and lightplanes will probably be finished up around 7:00 PM. I also recommend the Kolb crew and the Millers be invited. Getting excited about getting together with the Kolb List at Lakeland. Only two weeks from today. Hope we a blessed with good weather for the entire week. Take care, john h = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2002
Subject: Re: Original Firestar
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
> > > Hi, listers! I have a bud without a 'puter who purchased an > Original Firestar - kit was purchased from Kolb in early 1990 and > has 5 > rib wing with 377 rotax. He would like to know what the gross weight > is > for this model. Does anyone remember the number? Thanks, Gary Gary, the gross weight on the Original Firestar is 535 lbs. The empty weight is 264 lbs. Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
Date: Mar 24, 2002
I will try to be there for the cookout, I volunter to help reduce the weight of any and all containers of food and beverages. ( OK I will also help out hwoever I can) Hopefully I can find this trailer location, I have never been to SNF before so all the landmarks you guys are talking about are greek to me. I do have a FSR radio so I will start crying for directions on 4-4. Hopefully see you then. If all goes well the Powersport RV-6A will fly to SNF so I will be hanging around it for some of the time, and watching the ultralights and shopping for parts the rest of the time. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Listers Cookout at S&F
Date: Mar 23, 2002
Kolbers, No official location has been decided for the Sunday Cookout, soooo, here's my proposal: I am providing my enclosed trailer with 16ft X 8ft of shade or rainproofing. I'll have 2 BBQ grills, a 2 burner stove, a corn-cooker stove, pots & pans, paper plates & utinsils, a sink, generic cooking spices, 2 coolers of ice, water, several tables, some extra chairs, & hopefully a view of the airshow. I am not a cook. If somebody wants to organize the food end I will be happy to be a helper. My Suburban is available if anyone wants to do a food run. Otherwise, here's the deal: I'll bring my grub & a little more & will anxiously await any company to come by & share supper & Kolb Talk Sunday between 5-11PM. Bring your own grub to cook or dish to share, extra chair, story to tell & we'll have stone soup & enjoy what ever happens with who ever shows up. Anyone who wants to come a little early to help set up would be appreciated. Lord willing & if the creeks don't rise, I'll pull in about 6AM Saturday. I'll try to find a spot in the NE corner of the UL TRAILER parking field, which is immediately south & adjacent to the UL Camping Area, both of which are immediately east of Paradise City. The Suburban is an '84 Red & Silver diesel. The trailer is White with Green trim & a burgandy RV awning on right side, twin axle. I'll do my best to minitor channel 4-4 on FMS & GMRS radio. Cell phone # is 352-598-4064. Please feel free to come by any time Sat-Wed if you need some shade or a place to rest. If I'm not around, make yourself at home. Pilots flying in: If you need to do a supply run, my truck is available. I'll bring some empty gas cans & a Mr. Funnel, a case of Pensoil Aircooled Oil that I need to get rid of, & some tools. ...Richard Swiderski > > > Kolb gang, > > The cookout is on for 7pm Sunday Apr. 7 at S&F. > The exact location is yet to be determined. > The following people have volunteered to bring some necessary items: > Duane-D-Plane and Gene L. Grill > Beauford Grill (if Biglar can deliver it) > John Hauck Appetite > Bob Griffin Appetite > Steven Green Appetite > > > S. Green ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com>
Subject: Re: mosquitoes
Date: Mar 24, 2002
> > Here we go with "pick on pore ol' Lar time" again. Actually, I was serious > when I wrote that. Uncle Lar, FWIW this will be my 5th year at Sun n Fun... I have never noticed a bug problem.... I call it Sun-n-Burn cuz I often get the top of my head and neck burned from the sun this time of year.... also maybe blisters on your feet from LOTS of walking... and at the price of the sodas they sell (about $3 a cup) I spike em up with hootch I smuggle in and then it feels 'right' spending that price... and then the sun burn and blister pain fades... and dont miss the Budweiser truck with free samples.. just get back in line cuz those cups are awfully small.... just a little bigger than the $3 pepsi..... if Im late to the cookout its only cuz my nap lasted too long by that time of day... They have lots of those John Deere trams carrying people from one area to another.. I can never find where to get on but I always seem them unloading people... once was real scary when I almost fell in front of one of those tractors... had trouble keeping a straight path following the line on the side of the road... Ah.. the sights, sounds, and smells of past sun n funs... hundreds of portable latrines lining the taxiways..... Look forward to seeing everyone! Jon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Kolb Mark 111
I am right in the middle of that project, and am using 1/8" for the windshield, and 1/16" for the doors. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > > Anyone have the thickness of Lexan material needed to replace > the windshield and door coverings on my '99 Mark 111? >Thanks, Rw > > --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AV8REXP(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 24, 2002
Subject: Re: St Elmo, Alabama, Flyin
John and Gang, Glad that you had a nice time while visiting with us at ST. Elmo. I apologize for not getting around to talking with you this time while you were here. The fly in turned out to be a great success for us and I stayed extremely busy through out the day and did not manage to do any flying myself until late into the evening. Ruff numbers for the fly in; Young Eagles flown: 85 Planes that attended: 106 Most planes on the ground at one time: 87 Hamburgers served: over 400 Hot Dogs served: over 100 Estimated attendance: 600 Plus Farthest Flown: 360 NM from Shreveport La. These are estimates at this time. We do not have the final number yet. Our fly in this year had double the planes and people that we have had in the past. Had to go back for groceries two different times and bring in some back up grills to cook on. While these are good problems to have, we apologize for any inconvenience it may have caused to any body. Looking forward to seeing you next time and possible at SNF or Oshkosh. I will keep you posted as we plan our pancake breakfast later into the summer. Jay Stevens ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com>
Subject: Re: mosquitoes
Date: Mar 24, 2002
Mr. 'Lar'; Having spent a reasonable portion of my life in the Florida mid-section, mostly around Tampa, etc., and being somewhat familiar with the quality as well as the quanitity of insects, both ground-bound and the aviator-type, I have only one small caution to bring to your attention.......... They are V_E_R_Y___P_L_E_N_T_I_F_U_L and most are voracious and many are the aptly named "No See 'Um" types. Having lived in other parts for some time, and returning for a few years, I was never more pleased to head to my "true home". Recommendations: Take all the repellant you can carry, and all brands too. George Bass USUA ID # 80399 USUA Club # 555 USUA Club # 770 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for Kolb switch
Date: Mar 24, 2002
Duane and List, Kolb has the switches you are referring to. Give them a call, I'm sure Linda would be happy to ship one right out to you. Guy Swenson MKIII Xtra ----- Original Message ----- From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Looking for Kolb switch > > > I am now trying to finish up with my MK3 electrical system and have run i> nto a small problem. I made a spiffy little panel that fits right over th> e rudder cable fairleads located between the seats at the front of the ai> leron control tube. One switch has been mounted in the panel and I now fi> nd that I don't have one like it to mount on the other half of the panel.> The switch I need is a low profile, 3 amp toggle switch with wires comin> g out of it. They used to be supplied as standard equipment in Old Kolb k> its but I can't find them anywhere in my area. I have tried Radio Shack a> nd the local auto parts stores with no luck. They may no longer be in pro> duction. If any of you builders have one in your spare parts stash I will> be pleased to pay for the part and postage. > > I will try New Kolb in the morning but I'm afraid they won't have them. > > Duane Mitchell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: mosquitoes
Date: Mar 25, 2002
Awwww...............I'm sunk without a trace. I don't drink, (reformed alky for 16+ yrs now; non-smoker for almost that long), and I'm fair haired and skinned..............thin skinned too, so watch it, you guys. Kind of a shame...........I sure usta enjoy a cold beer on a hot day.............'specially with good B.S.'ing to go with it. Oh well.........the price of purity ! ! ! That's a good thought about the sun, and living in Palm Springs, it should've been the 1st thing I thought of. Many Thanks ! ! ! Sun-burnable Lar. Do not Archive. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: mosquitoes > > > > > Here we go with "pick on pore ol' Lar time" again. Actually, I was > serious > > when I wrote that. > > Uncle Lar, > > FWIW this will be my 5th year at Sun n Fun... I have never noticed a bug > problem.... I call it Sun-n-Burn cuz I often get the top of my head and > neck burned from the sun this time of year.... also maybe blisters on your > feet from LOTS of walking... and at the price of the sodas they sell (about ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Mail
Date: Mar 25, 2002


March 03, 2002 - March 25, 2002

Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dm