Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-do

April 20, 2002 - May 16, 2002



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Date: Apr 20, 2002
From: Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Sam Cox
April 20th, 2002 To the members of the Kolb Owners List Gentlemen, It is with heavy heart that I inform you that our ranks were thinned today with the passing of Sam Cox. A giant of a man in both stature and presence, he was a leading force in the aviation community here in North Texas. Quick to share his knowledge and offer his hand to those in need, we are all richer for having had him with us and poorer in his passing. While watching the competition at a fly-in sponsored by the D/FW Lite Flyers, EAA 393, at Ruby Field, north of Fort Worth, Sam suffered a heart attack shortly after 1 PM and left us very quickly. Nearing the completion of a FireStar II and getting tired of watching everyone else fly, Sam was anxious to take wing himself. As a man of religious conviction, we can take comfort in the fact that today, Sam finally got to fly. ********************* Ken W. Korenek 4906 Oak Springs Drive Arlington, Texas 76016 817-572-6832 voice 817-572-6842 fax 817-657-6500 cell 817-483-8054 home ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JOHN M. COOLEY" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: c.g. calculation
Date: Apr 21, 2002
Hi Tom and Gang, My Firestar II is a late 1994 model that I built in 2000/2001. I don't have my numbers handy but I do remember that my cg was a tad over 37%. 37% was the max listed by the old Kolb I believe. I was told by a very reliable source from the old Kolb that during the testing to determine the cg range that the Kolb Mark III wing was tested as far back as 39% with acceptable results. I have over 100 hrs on my plane since first flying it last April. It does fine at 37%. Hope this helps some with your concerns over the cg. Later, John Cooley FS II #1162, 503 DCDI, BRS, EIS etc. > > Ken, I used three digital scales, one under each wheel, raised the > tailwheel off ground until wing was at 9 degrees angle of attack, per plans. > Yes, calibrated scales with known weights, scales very accurate, took > multiple, multiple readings, I just neglected to put the pilot as a negative > reading in my earlier post, but I computed it in my c.g. calculations as a > negative number. Just for the hell of it I computed your c.g. with the > following numbers that you posted, and came up with the same %c.g. you did, > so I'm almost positive I've computed mine right, I realize that my firestar > II is within the kolb c.g. limits for this particular aircraft, but I would > still like to know how many firestars are flying with the c.g. this far, or > near this far aft. I'm using the 35% figure as max aft c.g. or should it be > 37%? > > Thanks, Tom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com>
Subject: Re: Sam Cox
Date: Apr 21, 2002
Ken; Your words hit home. I've never heard anyone's passing spoken more beautifully. Thanks for sharing. George Bass USUA ID # 80399 USUA Club # 555 USUA Club # 770 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 21, 2002
Subject: Re: c.g. calculation
Calculate weights with pilot onboard ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 21, 2002
Subject: USUA needs our help
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Guys, The USUA is asking for our help in responding to the NPRM. Here is the website to submit a comment: http://dmses.dot.gov/submit/ESMenu.asp All you have to do is copy this below and submit it as a comment. You can remain anonymous if you wish OR submit your name and email address to register (this is all that is required). When you continue to submit a comment, your name is the only thing that appears to the public. Time is of the essence as the comment period ends May 6th. Thanks for your help .... Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it **************************************** Here is what appeared at the USUA website with my added comment to the FAA: I would like to adopt the USUA proposed additions to the Sport Pilot proposal, FAA-2001-11133: Basic proposal is OK for existing FAA pilots. Overall, the proposal would be helpful to existing FAA licensed pilots and instructors. Some USUA members want to increase their flight privileges to include faster aircraft and overflight of cities. The proposed rule could provide that. Perhaps the definition of the aircraft which a sport pilot could fly should be increased enough to include aircraft such as Cessna 150, 152, Piper Tomahawk, and other common 2-place general aviation aircraft. Forcing all fat-single and two-seater pilots into higher, further and faster aircraft is excessive and unnecessary. Many USUA members only want reasonable regulatory avenue to fly "fat" single and two-place ultralights for recreation. USUA has repeatedly petitioned FAA about this. FAAs proposed requirement for every pilot and instructor of fat single seaters and two-place ultralight trainers go back into training is simply overkill and an apparent attempt to absorb most ultralighters into the mainstream of general aviation. Each pilot would have to pass a comprehensive written test on general aviation rules (parts 61 & 91), an oral examination and flight test using aircraft which could have top speeds over 130 mph. Solution: Two-Tiered Approach What USUA asks FAA to produce instead, is a two-tiered approach: sport pilot as proposed, and a second tier to address fat single and two-place ultralights. Just as FAA proposes to attach a special federal regulation (S-FAR) named Sport Pilot to existing regulations of parts 61 & 91, USUA proposes that FAA attach another S-FAR, named Ultralight Aircraft, to part 103 (Ultralight Vehicles). FAA licensed pilots need to help out with this concept for the good of aviation even if they intend to keep flying transportation aircraft. Two-seaters for training and recreation, "fat" single-seaters in essence brings into a special federal aviation regulation the two-place training programs, recreational use of two-seaters, and a modestly increased privileges for H. O. Scale single seaters as has been discussed and requested for decades. Identical with the S-FAR now proposed by FAA, the Ultralight Aircraft S-FAR would provide FAA certificates for pilots and instructors. The written, oral and flight tests would be based on existing ultralight programs and enforced by FAA. Administration of the program might be, or might not be, through membership associations. The operating rules would come from part 103 including prohibition on flights over congested areas, not into ATC controlled airspace without prior permission, and no night flyingexactly as ultralight vehicles are presently limited. USUA wants part 103 (Ultralight Vehicles) to be left unchanged. This two-tiered approach encourages the FAA "Sport Pilot" to be finalized while permitting ultralighters to gain the authority for two-seat recreation use under the more restrictive ultralight regulation. This second option is critical for those who want to fly todays ultralights and do not mind being relegated to rural areas. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "richard swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props
Date: Apr 21, 2002
Larry & Gang, I actually did make it to SNF later tuesday, left early wed. Went to a Suzuki engine forum & checked out the inflight adjustable prop sites. that was about all I could muster. I'm looking for an inflight adjustable so I can take advantage of the extra torque availabe with my turbo at cruise rpm. All accounts tell me Ivo's do not perform well over 90. I had a GSC inflight adj. prop ($2.2K 4yrs back), they only offer a wood2 blade, it had mechanical qualities I & others did not like & their ASAP dealershiip is an origanization I will never deal with again. Arplast seems like the only other reasonable option. the guy didn't speak English well, but if I understood him correctly, their beautiful composite 3blade weighs in at 17lbs & goes for $2.3K. Everything else I saw was 25+ lbs & +$4k. If anyone knows of other options for inflight adjustable props, I would love to hear about it. I rode my bicycle in spite of what the rules said. A friend offered me the use of his electic 3-wheel scooter. SNF people told me I couldn't use it, but I could rent one of theirs. To stay over for one nite, they charged me the full price of staying for a full week, no exceptions made. EAA has turned into a nonprofit organization with a prioity on making $. "It ain't what it used to be." I still am thankfull though. It may be like legal extortion but for now, I still can afford to be ripped off for that amount and I don't know of a better place to meet so many free thinkers & innovators or to view the cutting edge of aviation. Steve Green greeted me as I came in and I got to say hello to John Hawk as I was leaving, didn't get to meet anyone else. Looking forward to a better next year. I'm hoping to get back to work on my engine by this summer. ...Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> > > Sorry you couldn't make it to SnF, Richard. Maybe next year. Let me know how that new toy of yours works out. Lar. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "richard swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props
Date: Apr 21, 2002
Robert, No doubt $2.3K is painful but if you put it in the perspective of all the inflight props on the market it is a real value. Its about 1/5 more than an Ivo (the cheapest) but its 3-4 times better. Its also lighter & about 1/2 the price of the next higher prop. Without an inflight adjustable prop, you'd not get near the potential of a turbocharged engine. Also, considering the difference between it & a ground adjustable, its the best lb of thrust per $ investment you could make. And extra thrust on takeoff is safety & extra thrust at cruise is economy, so you see you can talk yourself into anything you really want! ...Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Laird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props > > >Richard, > > > >Remember $2.3K means $2,300 (K stands for 1000). Pretty expensive prop. > > I had an Arplast prop on a trike I used to own... incredible prop... > -- Robert > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Paint Booth
Date: Apr 21, 2002
I painted my Kolb in my garage. I made a paint room by covering the floor and hanging heavy clear plastic from the ceiling. Fasten 1x2 lumber to the ceiling with sheet rock screws (into the studs) and staple the plastic to 1x2. At the floor use a another 1x2 to hold it dow to the floor. Use the real heavy plastic from Home Depot. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2002
From: philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: Seeking Shelter - paint reply
Have you considered vinal graphic applications?? Many aircraft now use this process and the results are fantastic. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Re: seeking shelter
Date: Apr 22, 2002
John Richmond wrote: < I'm rebuilding my Mk III and am through the basic white painting process. Unfortunately I've lost my painting facility so cannot finish the color trim coat(s). > John - The portion of your paint job that requires a paint booth is done! I applied all my trim colors using a 3-inch roller and masking tape with excellent results. Was able to do it in my garage, one piece at a time, on saw horses. I used the Poly-Tone process. Dennis Kirby Cedar Crest, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Strobe Wiring
Date: Apr 22, 2002
Kolb Friends - Need advice on wiring the strobe light. I have a Kuntzelman strobe, which I plan to mount on the leading edge of the vertical fin, near the top. The box unit is mounted under the seat, and I need to string the strobe wire from the box to the flasher. How have you guys done this? My first thought was to simply run the wire thru the 6-inch tailboom tube, but I'm afraid that the constant movement of the control cables would chafe thru the strobe wire. Would the FAA be okay with the strobe wire running along the outside of the boom tube, taped securely to the surface? (Need the FAA concurrence for an N-number and the airworthiness certificate that goes with it.) My other thought was to go ahead and run the wire inside the boom tube, and protect the wire by putting it in a plastic sleeve. Or, maybe I could duct tape the wire to the inside of the boom tube, along the sides, for as far as my arm can reach. Any advice will help. Thanks - Dennis Kirby Mk-3, Verner-1400, beginning taxi-tests next month ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2002
From: Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: brakes
Group, just finished my brake system and have some info for those who want to use automotive, dune buggy, sprint car, etc components (master cylinder) with Matco wheel cylinders. The o-rings in the matcos are buna-n and incompatible with DOT3/4 fluid,---ok, so you knew that already.....the simple and cheap fix is to change out the o-rings to 2-218 EPDM (ethylene propylene). I spec'd 70 duro which is about the same as the original. This is glycol compatible and have a better temperature range than the original. --BB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Strobe Wiring
Date: Apr 22, 2002
> My other thought was to go ahead and run the wire inside the boom tube, and > protect the wire by putting it in a plastic sleeve. Or, maybe I could duct > tape the wire to the inside of the boom tube, along the sides, for as far as > my arm can reach. Any advice will help. > > Thanks - > Dennis Kirby > Mk-3, Verner-1400, beginning taxi-tests next month You are not allowed to use duct tape for anything on an aircraft. this is a not an FAA regulation just a really good rule of thumb. (Actually I just hate the stuff, it only sticks for a couple of years and then leaves a really stick mess, and it is ugly to start with) What you need are some cable ties holders that attach with a high quality permanent adhesive. Aircraft spruce has some, called click bond fasteners, cable tie mount (page 105 in the newest catalog). you get 4 with 5" nylon ties for $14. bucks. you might be able to find something similar at the home supply stores for 1/4 the cost. Click bond also makes a fair lead that might be a good idea for the control cables themselves, but that's another issue. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: brakes
Date: Apr 22, 2002
Hey, you a perty sharp feller, Bob.................thanks. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Bean" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> Subject: Kolb-List: brakes > > Group, just finished my brake system and have some info for > those who want to use automotive, dune buggy, sprint car, etc > components (master cylinder) with Matco wheel cylinders. > The o-rings in the matcos are buna-n and incompatible with > DOT3/4 fluid,---ok, so you knew that already.....the simple > and cheap fix is to change out the o-rings to 2-218 EPDM > (ethylene propylene). I spec'd 70 duro which is about the same > as the original. This is glycol compatible and have a better > temperature range than the original. --BB > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Strobe Wiring
Date: Apr 22, 2002
Great minds run in the same circles, Dennis. Look on my website, for a look and description of how I did it. Looks and works great.............and almost exactly what you dreamed up for inside the boom. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> Subject: Kolb-List: Strobe Wiring > > Kolb Friends - > Need advice on wiring the strobe light. > > I have a Kuntzelman strobe, which I plan to mount on the leading edge of the > vertical fin, near the top. The box unit is mounted under the seat, and I > need to string the strobe wire from the box to the flasher. How have you > guys done this? > > My first thought was to simply run the wire thru the 6-inch tailboom tube, > but I'm afraid that the constant movement of the control cables would chafe > thru the strobe wire. Would the FAA be okay with the strobe wire running > along the outside of the boom tube, taped securely to the surface? (Need > the FAA concurrence for an N-number and the airworthiness certificate that > goes with it.) > > My other thought was to go ahead and run the wire inside the boom tube, and > protect the wire by putting it in a plastic sleeve. Or, maybe I could duct > tape the wire to the inside of the boom tube, along the sides, for as far as > my arm can reach. Any advice will help. > > Thanks - > Dennis Kirby > Mk-3, Verner-1400, beginning taxi-tests next month > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Strobe Wiring
> > Need advice on wiring the strobe light. > > Dennis Kirby Dennis/Gang: I didn't mount a tail light or tail strobe. Instead used wingtip strobes and position lights with taillights. Wires are routed through the main spars (same as tail boom) with wires layed inside the spar, loose. Don't know why you could not do that in the tail boom. Elevator and rudder cables would not interfere with strobe wiring if layed inside bottom of boom. Mine have been working for a long time. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Strobe Wiring aka Duct tape
Duct tape had a grandfather in WWII--called "Get 'em Home Tape. BN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2002
Subject: Re: Strobe Wiring
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Guys, I too have strobes on my wingtips and run the wire loose through the main spar. It's been operating for 15 years (Illusion Strobes). They are very bright, unlike myself at times. Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it writes: > > > > > Need advice on wiring the strobe light. > > > > Dennis Kirby > > Dennis/Gang: > > I didn't mount a tail light or tail strobe. Instead used > wingtip strobes and position lights with taillights. Wires > are routed through the main spars (same as tail boom) with > wires layed inside the spar, loose. Don't know why you > could not do that in the tail boom. Elevator and rudder > cables would not interfere with strobe wiring if layed > inside bottom of boom. Mine have been working for a long > time. > > Take care, > > john h > > > > > messages. > > =================================== > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Strobe Wiring
Date: Apr 23, 2002
Sonamagun...............took the words right out of my mouth. Actually, for an alternative, look at my website (again) and see the really CLASSY way to run the wiring to the wingtips. Ahem ! ! ! Also, I used 4 conductor computer cable for that. Grounded and shielded..............hope it cuts any interference from the high voltage strobes. On funny sayings, tonight I told a guy at work about a boo-boo I made in Idaho last week, (it were a dandy) and told him that "The only reason I open my mouth is to change feet." He'd never heard it before, and busted up. Cute. Do not Archive. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Strobe Wiring > > Guys, > > I too have strobes on my wingtips and run the wire loose through the main > spar. It's been operating for 15 years (Illusion Strobes). They are very > bright, unlike myself at times. > > Ralph Burlingame > Original Firestar > 15 years flying it > > writes: > > > > > > > > Need advice on wiring the strobe light. > > > > > > Dennis Kirby > > > > Dennis/Gang: > > > > I didn't mount a tail light or tail strobe. Instead used > > wingtip strobes and position lights with taillights. Wires > > are routed through the main spars (same as tail boom) with > > wires layed inside the spar, loose. Don't know why you > > could not do that in the tail boom. Elevator and rudder > > cables would not interfere with strobe wiring if layed > > inside bottom of boom. Mine have been working for a long > > time. > > > > Take care, > > > > john h > > > > > > > > > > messages. > > > > =================================== > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: vicw <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: MARGINWIDTH
Date: Apr 23, 2002
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From: bilrags <bilrags(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Worm Klez.E immunity
Date: Apr 23, 2002
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Date: Apr 23, 2002
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: seeking shelter
Hey, I heard about using rollers, any special size or type?? I would rather do that as long as the paint looks OK after rolling! Thanks for the tip. Just a few more details please. 8-) --- Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM wrote: > > > John Richmond wrote: > > < I'm rebuilding my Mk III and am through the basic white painting > process. Unfortunately I've lost my painting facility so cannot > finish > the color trim coat(s). > > > John - > The portion of your paint job that requires a paint booth is done! I > applied all my trim colors using a 3-inch roller and masking tape > with > excellent results. Was able to do it in my garage, one piece at a > time, on > saw horses. I used the Poly-Tone process. > > Dennis Kirby > Cedar Crest, NM > > > > > > > > ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) Palm Coast, Fl. Mk3 582, 41 hrs http://games.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 23, 2002
Subject: Re: seeking shelter
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
---------- John Richmond writes: From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: seeking shelter Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 05:06:40 -0700 (PDT) Hey, I heard about using rollers, any special size or type?? I would rather do that as long as the paint looks OK after rolling! Thanks for the tip. Just a few more details please. 8-) John and others, Yes, I rolled and brushed my wings and it turned out nice. I get compliments all the time. I used a low nap roller and one that will stay together with Poly Fiber (Stits). Roll slowly to keep bubbles from forming. I did not thin the paint down, used it right out of the can. I brushed the leading edge, front to back, and rolled the rest. The fuse tube is polished with no paint. I works great! Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 23, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Strobe Wiring
We ran ours in the boom tube. If I recall right we positioned and secured it at each end so it taught enough where it could not touch to snag on any of the cables. I'll look the next time I'm at the airport to see exactly where we positioned it. jerryb > > >Kolb Friends - >Need advice on wiring the strobe light. > >I have a Kuntzelman strobe, which I plan to mount on the leading edge of the >vertical fin, near the top. The box unit is mounted under the seat, and I >need to string the strobe wire from the box to the flasher. How have you >guys done this? > >My first thought was to simply run the wire thru the 6-inch tailboom tube, >but I'm afraid that the constant movement of the control cables would chafe >thru the strobe wire. Would the FAA be okay with the strobe wire running >along the outside of the boom tube, taped securely to the surface? (Need >the FAA concurrence for an N-number and the airworthiness certificate that >goes with it.) > >My other thought was to go ahead and run the wire inside the boom tube, and >protect the wire by putting it in a plastic sleeve. Or, maybe I could duct >tape the wire to the inside of the boom tube, along the sides, for as far as >my arm can reach. Any advice will help. > >Thanks - >Dennis Kirby >Mk-3, Verner-1400, beginning taxi-tests next month > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 23, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props
><swiderski@advanced-connect.net> > To stay over for one nite, they charged >me the full price of staying for a full week, no exceptions made. EAA has >turned into a nonprofit organization with a prioity on making $. "It ain't >what it used to be." I still am thankfull though. It may be like legal >extortion but for now, I still can afford to be ripped off for that amount >and I don't know of a better place to meet so many free thinkers & >innovators or to view the cutting edge of aviation. > ...Richard Swiderski Richard, I assume charging you a week refers to the daily camping fee. They collect the amount for the whole week up front and give you a refund when you check out if you leave before the last day. Hope you did that? Oshkosh does that, it works well and they don't have to have monitors walking the camps. I had no problem with it except they gave your refund back in the form as a check versus cash even though you paid in cash. Just have to plan to tie up your money until you get back home where you can cash the check. I bet we all would be surprised to learn how many refund checks never get cashed or what sounds like in your case, refunds not collected when you leave early. jerryb ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 23, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props
> > To stay over for one nite, they charged > >me the full price of staying for a full week, no exceptions made. > > ...Richard Swiderski > They collect > the amount for the whole week up front and give you a refund when you check > out if you leave before the last day. Hope you did that? > jerryb Richard/Jerry/Gang: This must be a change in policy since last year, or I am one of the uninformed/uneducated masses. Last year, at Lakeland, cost me $25 per night for four nights prior to the official start date, the another amount for the remainder of the week. Very expensive for dry camping. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 23, 2002
Subject: Re: seeking shelter
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Hey, I heard about using rollers, any special size or type?? I would rather do that as long as the paint looks OK after rolling! Thanks for the tip. Just a few more details please. 8-) I used a low nap roller. For the large areas use a long one and for the tighter areas use a small one. The nice part about this is that you can repair a rip easily without spraying. Don't have to worry about over spray. You can see my pics on Matronics photoshare. There are 2 sets of them. Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "richard swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props
Date: Apr 23, 2002
Jerry & John, I called SNF twice before I left because I could believe what their website said, that if you come in before Wed, the fee for one nite is the same as it is for a week & no refunds. When I got there I was told the same thing. But Mike S says there was an overnite facility for for $20 per nite. All I know for sure is what I read on the EAA SNF site & what they told & what they charged me. Too bad I didn't talk with Mike before I left! ...Richard S ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props > > > > > To stay over for one nite, they charged > > >me the full price of staying for a full week, no exceptions made. > > > ...Richard Swiderski > > > They collect > > the amount for the whole week up front and give you a refund when you check > > out if you leave before the last day. Hope you did that? > > > jerryb > > Richard/Jerry/Gang: > > This must be a change in policy since last year, or I am one > of the uninformed/uneducated masses. > > Last year, at Lakeland, cost me $25 per night for four > nights prior to the official start date, the another amount > for the remainder of the week. Very expensive for dry > camping. > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 23, 2002
Subject: SNF camping
I couldn't believe the pricing either, pay for the week and I camped for 2 nights. Beside that, I got there on Saturday and I had to buy tickets to get in on Saturday. I didn't want to get into the show, the guy told me I would have to have an armband to get the campground. I am suprised I didn't have to get a ticket for my 4 year old. I don't mind patronizing the EAA, but they don't need to male a killing. Sure goes to show nice Oshkosh is, hard to believe they are ran by the same organization. Oh well it was fun, went to Disney as well, so when you compare the costs it's really not that bad. Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ULDAD <ULDAD(at)aol.com>
Subject: Fw:so cool a flash,enjoy it
Date: Apr 24, 2002
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From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 24, 2002
Subject: Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props
Jerry B & Gang Oshkosh makes refunds on unused days of camping. Year before this I paid $ 80.00 to stay 2 nights, at sun n fun ,or about that. If I go back I will stay in a private campground. I guess they think we have unlimited funds. They were even going to charge to ride my scooter in if I stayed in the dry camping area . At least Oshkosh doesent charge for what you DONT use. Nuf Said Ed Diebel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: FireStar II Wing Kit
Here are two other options that are cheaper and less work. Option one: beef up the existing ribs like Dennis suggested. Option two: get Kolb to give you a deal on four ribs and put them between the existing ribs. You will need to cut the spar attachment flange and drill out some rivets to slip these ribs in place but it should be fairly easy to do. The weight of the two additional ribs would be minor. The biggest task would be the recover job. If I were to buy a plane someone else built I would always worry about how well it was built or treated. This gives you the excuse to open the wing and check it out. Just don't give up its well worth the effort. My $.02 worth Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII >>> ken-foi(at)attbi.com 04/23/02 09:17PM >>> Hey Kolbers, I'm the new guy who has a 5 rib wing on a FSII and guess what? I'm looking for some wings to build or buy. Anybody know of a set for sale? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Mark IIIXtra
Date: Apr 24, 2002
Lots of questions: Finishing my console/instrument panel/arm rest. 1. I am planning on using the Rotax 912, how much should I notch out for the throttle and choke levers on the arm rest? It says the throttle cable has a range of 1 1/2" and since the distance from the bolt to the cable attachment and the distance to the top of the arm rest is the same- I assume the notch should be about 1 1/2"+. It doesn't give the range for the choke. 2. When the throttle and choke are in the closed position, should the levers be vertical or should they be vertical at mid-throttle and mid-choke? 3. What is the range of the stick from full up to full down elevator? I have no elevator stops installed yet, so I can easily bang the stick into the instrument pod by pushing the stick forward and to the right. Want to make sure I have adequate range of motion before I go on with the covering of the panel. Thanks, Clay Stuart Danville KY ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2002
From: Terry McCurry <terrymccurry(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: wing attachment
Hi Guys, bought a kolb kolbra in Jan. 2001 and have gotten to the point of attaching the wings and struts, I do not have a manual or any plans instructing me on the proper way to do this. i have talked to kolb and they have promised over and over to send the information,but they say the manuals are still not fully developed. I am at a stopping point and I definately do not want to do this wrong! I have talked to Danny a number of times about the year and half delay and found him to be very unprofessional and even rude at times. Any advice that could be shared would be greatly appreciated. thanks T McCurry 864-227-6332 terrymccurry(at)yahoo.com --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Hennon" <Dhennon(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: wing attachment
Date: Apr 24, 2002
Terry, Thanks, in a way, for the info about customer service w/Kolb. I have been bouncing back and forth between a Kolb MkIII and a Sonex. You just finalized my decision. Dave Orlando -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Terry McCurry Subject: Kolb-List: wing attachment Hi Guys, bought a kolb kolbra in Jan. 2001 and have gotten to the point of attaching the wings and struts, I do not have a manual or any plans instructing me on the proper way to do this. i have talked to kolb and they have promised over and over to send the information,but they say the manuals are still not fully developed. I am at a stopping point and I definately do not want to do this wrong! I have talked to Danny a number of times about the year and half delay and found him to be very unprofessional and even rude at times. Any advice that could be shared would be greatly appreciated. thanks T McCurry 864-227-6332 terrymccurry(at)yahoo.com --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: FireStar II Wing Kit
> > >I contacted Kolb and they can get me a "just wings" kit out promptly >for about $800 less than a Kit #1. At least with Kolb, I'll know it's >all there and is all new materials. > >What do you guys think- Which way would you go? I would stick with the wings you have and just go out and have fun. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Subject: wing attachment
Date: Apr 24, 2002
Terry, Thanks, in a way, for the info about customer service w/Kolb. I have been bouncing back and forth between a Kolb MkIII and a Sonex. You just finalized my decision. Dave Orlando Dave, I hope you think this decision through. I for one have had nothing but excellent service from them. (Not excusing a year and a half to get Terry his drawings...but when you buy a design that is "hot of the presses" so to speak, that will happen.) I can tell you that Sonex ltd, took awhile to get "complete" drawings out on the Sonex as well. There were several builders that had to stop and wait on drawings while building. Now Sonex, ltd is another great outfit...I know cause I'm plans holder #410 and yes the drawing package is incredible just like they claim. There is not a single part that is not drawn in painful levels of detail in the airplane. What I'm saying is this...don't make your decision based on just that...these 2 airplanes are designed for totally different niches'. The Sonex is fast like the wind for the horsepower, but needs more room to operate. It is also a bottled up airplane...(i.e no wind in the face or on the arms except what might leak around a poorly-trimmed canopy...) The Kolb is designed for a different mission. Climb like a missile and haul about whatever you can put in it. And if you want to, you can take the doors off and catch some breezes. Choose based on what you want to do. If you want to go 130-150 mph then go Sonex, cause you'll hate the Kolb. If you want the slower but land anywhere STOL performance and enjoy some open-air flying if the mood hits you then go Kolb, cause you'll hate the Sonex. All planes are compromises, so pick the plane that does the "most" of what you want to do... Personally , I want something with the visibility and STOL performance of a Kolb, and cruise of a Lancair... ;-) Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)ldl.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: For Terry McCurry
Terry--I have been trying to e-mail you off list and keep getting the message back as undeliverable. As I don't post responses on the list any more and only reply direct to individuals, please contact me off list.=0D =0D Ron Payne ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: SEAT BELTS
From: Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com
Date: Apr 24, 2002
04/24/2002 05:48:06 PM Kolb Listers: The existing seat belts on my Mrk III suck, and I am evaluating my replacement options, suitable attachment points and attachment hardware. I am considering a rather pricey 4-point system with an inertial reel that is made by Schroth. With respect to attachment points, the two sides of the lap belt would likely be attached to the landing gear socket. The shoulder belts would converge into a Y, which would go to the inertial reel and attach to the square cage tubing directly above and behind the seat. I am reluctant to drill through the cage and landing gear sockets to make the attachments, but perhaps brackets that go around these are available. Could you fine folks comment on my plans and provide any recommendations before I commit? Regards, Erich Weaver erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100 Santa Barbara, California 93117 Tel: 805-964-6010 fax: 805-964 0259 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeffrey Jones" <jeffrey.jones(at)fuse.net>
Subject: For Sale: Ultra Star
Date: Apr 24, 2002
For Sale: Ultra Star A great flying machine in "excellent" condition. Plane was gone over last year and has all new fabric, paint and rivets. This Ultra Star has great cruising and climb performance. A very reliable Ultra Star. Selling plane for $4900 and trailer for $550. Would consider delivery for expenses and etc.. Jeff Jones Burlington KY jeffrey.jones(at)fuse.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: For Sale: Ultra Star
A very reliable Ultra Star. > Selling plane for $4900 and trailer for $550. Would consider delivery > for expenses and etc.. > > Jeff Jones Jeff/Gang: Feb 1984, paid Ross Hoffman, Kolb Dealer in Newnan, GA, $3,495.00 for my first Kolb Kit, an Ultrastar. I probably had close to $4,900 by the time I got her finished. john h hauck's holler, AL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 24, 2002
Subject: Re: SEAT BELTS
In a message dated 4/24/02 5:55:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com writes: > The existing seat belts on my Mrk III suck, Erich, Your kit must be at least 3 years old. I canned the old seat belts and bought the belts that come with the mark III now. It is a 4 point harness that can wrap around all the attachment points you mentioned without any drilling. Steven G. Mk III 180 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2002
From: Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: SEAT BELTS
Erich, disregarding that you probably have already researched the belt market pretty well......Hooker also makes the inertia type offered in the ACS cat. I like the looks of the Y type arrangement, being a scrawny dude, they would stay on me better. Get a copy of the JEGS automotive racing cat. --they have some really interesting stuff. I'm going to order my harness from them. They have G-FORCE for a reasonable price and if brand names impress you they have SIMPSON stuff for a bit more. -BB Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com wrote: > > Kolb Listers: > > The existing seat belts on my Mrk III suck, and I am evaluating my > replacement options, suitable attachment points and attachment hardware. > I am considering a rather pricey 4-point system with an inertial reel that > is made by Schroth. With respect to attachment points, the two sides of the > lap belt would likely be attached to the landing gear socket. The shoulder > belts would converge into a Y, which would go to the inertial reel and > attach to the square cage tubing directly above and behind the seat. > > I am reluctant to drill through the cage and landing gear sockets to make > the attachments, but perhaps brackets that go around these are available. > Could you fine folks comment on my plans and provide any recommendations > before I commit? > > Regards, > > Erich Weaver > erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com > 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100 > Santa Barbara, California 93117 > > Tel: 805-964-6010 > fax: 805-964 0259 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: SEAT BELTS
Date: Apr 24, 2002
I wouldn't want to drill thru them either, Erich. Why don't you make your own wrap around brackets, out of, say, 1/8" steel ?? If you find a piece of scrap of the right size, it would be quite simple to heat your bracket, and bend it around the "mandrel." It would be very strong, and would not compromise a very critical part of the framework. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: SEAT BELTS > > > Kolb Listers: > > The existing seat belts on my Mrk III suck, and I am evaluating my > replacement options, suitable attachment points and attachment hardware. > I am considering a rather pricey 4-point system with an inertial reel that > is made by Schroth. With respect to attachment points, the two sides of the > lap belt would likely be attached to the landing gear socket. The shoulder > belts would converge into a Y, which would go to the inertial reel and > attach to the square cage tubing directly above and behind the seat. > > I am reluctant to drill through the cage and landing gear sockets to make > the attachments, but perhaps brackets that go around these are available. > Could you fine folks comment on my plans and provide any recommendations > before I commit? > > Regards, > > Erich Weaver > erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com > 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100 > Santa Barbara, California 93117 > > Tel: 805-964-6010 > fax: 805-964 0259 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Cheap Carb synchronizer - Build your Own
Date: Apr 24, 2002
Hey aviators, Is engine not running smooth and need to balance your carbs ? Here is a cheap and safer way to build your own carb synchronizer for less than $5.- I have used red ATF fluid for visibility. Look at this site for details www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp Hans van Alphen Mark III Xtra 39 hours BMW powered. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "M. Domenic Perez" <perezmdomenic(at)plateautel.net>
Subject: center-stick taildragger instructor wanted close to New Mexico
Date: Apr 24, 2002
Kolb Gentlemen, As of about a month ago, I'm a Firestar II owner. Howdy. I'm looking for an instructor with an appropriate training plane, hopefully closer than 1000 miles from central New Mexico. Any suggestions? Also regarding the posts a few days ago concerning inflight adjustable props, I ran across www.proplink.org which sells hubs that work with Powerfin, and another for Warp props. They are in the 26-2800 dollar range. I have absolutely no experience with their product-I just noticed their website. M. Domenic Perez perezmdomenic(at)plateautel.net P.O.Box 435 Vaughn, NM 88353-0435 Home (505)584-2542 voice/fax Cell (505)799-0413 Firestar II ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TCowan1917(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 25, 2002
Subject: Re: five ribs
Well, if it were me, I would buy the new wing kit and start working. I would put the five rib wings up for sale and I will bet there will be a buyer in short order. There are a lot of five ribbers out there and I am sure one has been tweeked. That would cut your investment down a little and get someone else off the ground. ted cowan. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 04/24/02
Date: Apr 25, 2002
Hey Clay, Made my slots for the throttle and choke 3 1/4 inches long. The throttle lever is in vertical position when off. The choke lever is in vertical position when on. I can send you pictures if you like. My stick does not interfere with the instrument pod. Hans van Alphen Mark III Xtra BMW powered 39 hours >original message >From: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> >Subject: Kolb-List: Mark IIIXtra > >Lots of questions: > >Finishing my console/instrument panel/arm rest. > >1. I am planning on using the Rotax 912, how much should I notch out for >the throttle and choke levers on the arm rest? > It says the throttle cable has a range of 1 1/2" and since the distance >from the bolt to the cable attachment and the > distance to the top of the arm rest is the same- I assume the notch >should be about 1 1/2"+. It doesn't > give the range for the choke. > >2. When the throttle and choke are in the closed position, should the >levers be vertical or should they be > vertical at mid-throttle and mid-choke? > >3. What is the range of the stick from full up to full down elevator? I >have no elevator stops installed yet, so I can > easily bang the stick into the instrument pod by pushing the stick >forward and to the right. Want to make sure I > have adequate range of motion before I go on with the covering of the >panel. > >Thanks, >Clay Stuart >Danville KY ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com>
Subject: Lurker with a Prop Question
Date: Apr 25, 2002
Hi no one knows me because I'm a lurker. I have a wooden prop on my Mark III with a 582 and a b gear box. I just got some money that is burning a hole in my pocket and I was thinking about getting a new prop. There are many kinds to choose from and a local expert tells me to get the Powerfin. Whats the scoop on the props? MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Lurker with a Prop Question
Powerfin has many advocates, no detractors, so they must be good. The guys that have Warp Drive seem to be happy with them as well. I have an old 2-blade Ivo, 66" and am very satisfied. (Rotax 532, 2.58:1 B box) A 3-blade Ivo will give you better acceleration for takeoff, the 2-blade will give you a better overall speed spread, with lower rpm's at cruise. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >Hi no one knows me because I'm a lurker. I have a wooden prop on my Mark III >with a 582 and a b gear box. I just got some money that is burning a hole in >my pocket and I was thinking about getting a new prop. There are many kinds >to choose from and a local expert tells me to get the Powerfin. Whats the >scoop on the props? > >MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: >http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > >--- >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2002
From: Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com>
Subject: For Sale: FireStar 5 Rib Wings
For Sale: A really nice set of 5 rib wings rated for 550 pounds gross weight. They were built by Lite Speed Aviation in the fall of 1999 and have 30 flight hours on them. Painted gloss yellow with the classic Kolb outboard striping, they have been hangared (or stored in a trailer) for the full life. Surfaces have one small (1/2 inch) ding on the top left wing center, same on top left aileron and right wing has one ding by the fold bracket from missing the tube during folding. Dings were temporarily repaired with yellow tape. Otherwise, they are in above average condition. I am replacing them with a set of 7 rib wings to carry an XL sized pilot. LSA did a really good job- the fabric work is very tight and smooth. Large ailerons. Pictures available on request. Contact me off list- e-mail or any of the numbers below. ********************* Ken W. Korenek 4906 Oak Springs Drive Arlington, Texas 76016 817-572-6832 voice 817-572-6842 fax 817-657-6500 cell 817-483-8054 home ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2002
Subject: Fatal Kolb Crash In Indiana
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Does anyone know anything about this crash? Ralph ********************************************* THE ULTRALIGHT THAT CRASHED IN INDIANA WAS NOT A TRIKE; IT WAS A KOLB ULTRALIGHT. I AM ONLY ABOUT 5 MIN. FROM THE AIRPORT WHERE IT HAPPENED, AND HAVE SEEN THE PLANE UP CLOSE, AND TALKED TO THE DECEASED PILOT ON DIFFERENT OCCASIONS. NO DETAILS ABOUT THE CAUSE OF THE ACCIDENT YET. An ultra-light aircraft crashed Tuesday night just short of a runway at the Randolph County Airport, killing the pilot. Brook Fleming, 44, was said Fleming, who was flying alone, suffered head and chest injuries. Witnesses saw Fleming's aircraft "dip to the left, then go down," said Ken Hendrickson, chief deputy of the Randolph County Sheriff's Department. The aircraft was apparently about 100 feet in the air when it began its fatal plunge, he said. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: BRS Install
the shockcord adjustmet for the stick. Simple is good. Talked with BRS about the hair cell > plastic and they or the tech I was talking with did not seem to know anything about it. Do > you have a name of someone there? Bob Currie Bob/Gang: Try Dan Johnson. Seems everybody at BRS would know about haircell plastic, but one never knows. I guess every organization has their own internal problems. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Value of 5 rib wings
> Anybody got an idea of how much an above average set of 5 rib wings > built by Lite Speed Aviation is worth? > Ken W. Korenek Ken/Gagn: Why not ask Litespeed what they would charge you to build them. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net>
Subject: Lurker with a Prop Question
Date: Apr 26, 2002
Stick with the PowerFin. Warp Drive is probably stronger, but a three blade has too much moving mass for a B-box. Good luck, Dave Rains El Paso -----Original Message----- From: David Key [SMTP:dhkey(at)msn.com] Subject: Kolb-List: Lurker with a Prop Question Hi no one knows me because I'm a lurker. I have a wooden prop on my Mark III with a 582 and a b gear box. I just got some money that is burning a hole in my pocket and I was thinking about getting a new prop. There are many kinds to choose from and a local expert tells me to get the Powerfin. Whats the scoop on the props? MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org>
Subject: Lurker
Date: Apr 26, 2002
I'm a lurker also but I enjoy reading the list every day. I am rebuilding a Ultra Star and have asked many questions off list. John Hauk and John Anderson mostly. John Anderson went to the trouble of copying his engine manual and construction manual and sending them to me. Thanks all you guys for your help. Dale Sellers Georgia do not achieve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org>
Subject: FW: Lurker
Date: Apr 26, 2002
-----Original Message----- From: Dale Sellers [mailto:dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org] Subject: Lurker I'm a lurker also but I enjoy reading the list every day. I am rebuilding a Ultra Star and have asked many questions off list. John Hauk and John Anderson mostly. John Anderson went to the trouble of copying his engine manual and construction manual and sending them to me. Thanks all you guys for your help. Dale Sellers Georgia do not achieve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: Prop bolt tork value?
I'm not sure I heard a response for your question. I would really check with the prop manufacturer. There are published torque specifications on bolts that are all over the place depending on their grade. First get the size and grade of bolt the prop maker recommends then torque it by their recommendation. The bolts I use are capable of being torqued way more than Power Fin recommends. If you have a prop with a wood hub you need to release wait a day then retorque the prop with every change of season. I failed to do the retorque one spring with my old Weedhopper and I sheered off the prop bolts in flight. I felt it get loose less than a mile from home and I didn't make it with the prop attached. As for being a Texan we will not hold that against you. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII >>> mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com 04/25/02 04:17PM >>> Ken Korenek wrote: I'd sure like to hear what ya'll (sorry- I'm a Texan) think Ken, Don't ever appologize... Remember there are 2 types of people. Those of us who are from Texas and those who wish they were....! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net>
Subject: Almost Engine Out
Date: Apr 26, 2002
Folks, This started out to be a great day. The sunshine was bright and temperature around 60 which engine, prop, and wings really like. So I drove to the airport, assembled the Firefly, and attacked the sky. Flew over to a friend's place where he has a new hangar and his own strip. I normally land if the door is open and merely buzz if door is closed. The door was closed today and as I powered up to climb back to altitude, the engine started losing power and the drop in speed was very quick so I immediately pointed the nose down and pulled the throttle back. With throttle somewhat retarded, the engine picked up again, so I tried to add power and had the same power loss again. Fortunately, I had already started a GENTLE turn and the retarded throttle gave enough power to make the 360 and land. My friend finally got home and allowed me to store the Firefly in his hangar. I then called my daughter in law who came the 50 miles from Cincinnati to pick me up and return me to my car and trailer. I will drive over with the trailer and make the pickup in the morning. This raises the question of what should I do to resolve this problem. The engine has 85 hrs and I did the visual inspection at 55 hours and planned on doing my first decarbon at 100 hours. Today's problem definitely seemed to me to be fuel supply related. However, after giving this further thought, my current plan is to do the decarbon now as well as replace the fuel pump and fuel lines. The currently pump and lines are only 5 months old but line and pumps are cheap. Looking for other suggestions in addition to these steps and look forward to constructive criticism of this plan. Sure felt good that this happened so close to a landing strip. Gene Ledbetter Cincinnati, OH Firetly 85 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2002
From: <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Almost Engine Out
Looking for other suggestions in addition to these steps and look forward to constructive criticism of this plan. Sure felt good that this happened so close to a landing strip. Gene Ledbetter Cincinnati, OH Firetly 85 hrs Gene/Gang: Glad it turned out ok. Yep, sounds like a fuel problem. If it were me and my airplane: 1. Check float bowl for water and trash. Even the smallest amount of trash/water/sludge is enough to partially block the main jet and cause power loss. There is a fence in the float bowl that keeps water and other crude out of the little main jet well in the bottom of the float bowl. Sometimes we get too much junk in the bowl and it goes over the fence and into the main jet well. This happens on all Bing carbs whether two or four stroke. The little screen in the well is for keeping air bubbles out of the main jet well rather than keeping out dirt and/or water. 2. Check fuel filter. If it is plugged, partially or completely, change it for a new one. Never use a filter with a paper element. Moisture and paper fuel filters are hazardous to ultralights and light planes. 3. Make sure the primer bulb is in new condition. Any question, change it out. Get one at Walmart by Atwood in the marine parts section. Best yet, replace the bulb with an electric pump. 4. Chances are the fuel pump is fine. Before spending money for it, tie the airplane securely and run it up. Let it run wide open and cruise rpm for 5 or 10 minutes. This should tell you if your problem has been taken care of or should you dig further. 5. If you have to dig further, make sure the vent hole in the fuel tank is clear. 6. No air leaks in the fuel lines. Some tiny ones never put me down, that I know of. 7. As a last result, change out the fuel pump. If you don't need a new one, but already have bought one, keep it until you do. Usually, fuel pump housings do not wear out, but the diaphrams do. I used to always keep an extra diaphram for a spare. Make sure it is genuine Mikuni. 8. If the above does not work, sell the two stroke and buy a 912. :-) john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2002
Subject: Re: Almost Engine Out
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
> The door was closed today and as I powered up to climb back to > altitude, the engine started losing power and the drop in speed was > > very quick so I immediately pointed the nose down and pulled the > throttle back. > > With throttle somewhat retarded, the engine picked up again, so I > tried to add power and had the same power loss again. > > Gene Ledbetter > Cincinnati, OH > Firetly 85 hrs Gene, First, check your fuel filter to see if it's clogged. Second, take off the exhaust manifold and check for stuck rings by spraying Seafoam into them and taking a non-metallic stick and poking them to see if they are loose. If the above looks good, then replace the fuel lines, filter, and pump. I had the same thing happen to me many years ago and it turned out to be a clogged filter. Always use a large filter that has a lot of surface area so it won't clog as easily. I get mine from Champion Auto parts stores and they are about $3.50 each. Hope this helps .... Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2002
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/22/02
<<<<< Good to hear from you. How goes your repairs? john h >>>>>> well if i had started sooner i would have been done by now....... getting ready to prime and recover the cage. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2002
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 04/23/02
<<<< hanger flying with noise and turbulence brought memories and a smile to my face. It's amazing what grown men will do!>>>>> no grown men here..... big boy toys!!!!!!! boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Almost Engine Out
Date: Apr 27, 2002
Gene, Suggest you do what Ralph said plus, if you have a squeeze bulb, either eliminate it or bypass it. Similiar thing happened to me last year. I could not pin down the actual cause, so I did the whole nine yards - checked the rings, replaced all fuel lines, pulse line, filter, cleaned the gas tanks, eliminated the squeeze bulb, cleaned the air filters, replaced the plugs. Have been flying a full year with no repeat problem. But I am more aware of potential landing spots at all times. Jim Charlote, NC Mark III ----- Original Message ----- From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Almost Engine Out > > > > > The door was closed today and as I powered up to climb back to > > altitude, the engine started losing power and the drop in speed was > > > > very quick so I immediately pointed the nose down and pulled the > > throttle back. > > > > With throttle somewhat retarded, the engine picked up again, so I > > tried to add power and had the same power loss again. > > > Gene Ledbetter > > Cincinnati, OH > > Firetly 85 hrs > > Gene, > > First, check your fuel filter to see if it's clogged. Second, take off > the exhaust manifold and check for stuck rings by spraying Seafoam into > them and taking a non-metallic stick and poking them to see if they are > loose. > > If the above looks good, then replace the fuel lines, filter, and pump. > > I had the same thing happen to me many years ago and it turned out to be > a clogged filter. Always use a large filter that has a lot of surface > area so it won't clog as easily. I get mine from Champion Auto parts > stores and they are about $3.50 each. > > Hope this helps .... > > Ralph Burlingame > Original Firestar > 15 years flying it > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: wing attachment
> >Went to Oshkosh for a day after TNK took over - couldn't have been more rude >or cared less. Sounds like they had the same attitude at Sun n Fun. My parts >are a long time coming vs. the old service. Whenever I needed parts I would just call Sue and she would have them in the mail the next day. Now she is gone but I don't need any more parts so I don't know what customer service is like now but TNK had good service 2 years ago. If anyone has Sue's new email please send it to me off list. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Lurker with a Prop Question
> > >my pocket and I was thinking about getting a new prop. There are many kinds > >to choose from and a local expert tells me to get the Powerfin. Whats the > >scoop on the props? Theoretically if the engine is spinning at around 6300 full throttle then the wood prop will be the best performer. If nothing is wrong with the prop keep it. To make a ground adjustable prop compromises are made in the design. I have always flown warps and they perform good for me but I do not have experience flying in front of other designs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2002
Subject: Re: Almost Engine Out
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Thanks Jim for mentioning to bypass the primer bulb. I forgot about that. Thanks John Hauck for mentioning junk in the float bowl. Adding a bypass around the bulb adds one more cheap trouble-free thing to help keep that little hummer from quitting up there. I had a blade of grass in the bottom of the float bowl once that caused me to abort. I got 50' in the air and it wasn't revving beyond 4500 rpm. Lucky for me that day, I decided to taxi all the way back to the very end of the 2500' runway. When I saw that I could not climb, I aborted and had plenty of room to land. I got out, removed the float bowl, and saw a blade of grass at the bottom. I dumped the fuel in the bowl, filled it up again, and dumped it. I taxied back, took off and flew the rest of the day without a problem. How did that blade of grass get in there? I think it's because it clung to outside and when I took the bowl off sometime before I flew that day, it dropped inside with seeing it. It might help to clean the outside off with a paper towel before removing the bowl or double check the inside of it. Had I not taken the time to taxi back to the end of the runway, I would have been in the powerlines at the opposite end. After that experience, I take pleasure leaving as much runway ahead of me as possible. That blade of grass was tiny. It doesn't take much to ruin a good day. Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it but grounded today with rain and snow in good 'ol Minnesota. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: FireStar CG
Just ran the CG on my FireStar. Just finishing it up.. The CG is at between 34% and 35% depending on where I place the battery. I can't seem to get in away from the aft limit unless I were to add a lot of lead in the nose. Is this normal for a FireStar? Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clive Hatcher" <clive_hatcher(at)lineone.net>
Subject: Lurker with a Prop Question
Date: Apr 27, 2002
Dave and David, I have a Mk III with a 582/B box and use an Arplast Three Blade Prop. This is made in France and has a rotating mass within the 'B' box range. It is a good prop. but the downside is it is expensive. I believe there is a US agent. Clive Hatcher MkIII/582 UK -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Rains Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Lurker with a Prop Question Stick with the PowerFin. Warp Drive is probably stronger, but a three blade has too much moving mass for a B-box. Good luck, Dave Rains El Paso -----Original Message----- From: David Key [SMTP:dhkey(at)msn.com] Subject: Kolb-List: Lurker with a Prop Question Hi no one knows me because I'm a lurker. I have a wooden prop on my Mark III with a 582 and a b gear box. I just got some money that is burning a hole in my pocket and I was thinking about getting a new prop. There are many kinds to choose from and a local expert tells me to get the Powerfin. Whats the scoop on the props? MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ======================= Contributions of or any other form Forums. ======================= the latest messages. other List members. ======================= http://www.matronics.com/subscription http://www.matronics.com/photoshare http://www.matronics.com/browselist/kolb-list http://www.matronics.com/search http://www.matronics.com/archives http://www.matronics.com/kolb-list http://www.matronics.com/emaillists http://www.matronics.com/contribution ======================= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clive Hatcher" <clive_hatcher(at)lineone.net>
Subject: Almost Engine Out
Date: Apr 27, 2002
Gene and Gang, I agree with all John's points and would also add - check / replace the pulse line and fasteners. If all this fails as a long shot check the flexible coupling between the carburettor and engine for air leaks. Best of luck, Clive Hatcher MkIII / 582 UK -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of hawk36(at)mindspring.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Almost Engine Out Looking for other suggestions in addition to these steps and look forward to constructive criticism of this plan. Sure felt good that this happened so close to a landing strip. Gene Ledbetter Cincinnati, OH Firetly 85 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Almost Engine Out
> If all this fails as a long shot check the > flexible coupling between the carburettor and > engine for air leaks. > Clive Hatcher MkIII / 582 UK Hi Clive/Gents: Two good points I forgot. That's where two or more heads are better than one. Pulse lines have caused many pilots grief. Also the carb sockets. Good to hear from you. We had a ball at Lakeland. I really enjoyed being able to meet personally with everyone, especially our two international visitors/List Members: Johan and Clive I was lucky enough to spend a great deal of time with both of them. Sometimes one at a time and then I had both of these foreigners at the same time. We had a ball. Learned to eat BBQ and say ya'll. :-) Understand from the EAA Hotline this morning that an Icelandic 747-200 is bringing a load of international visitors from Europe to Oshkosh 2002. Do not think I will be there for this one. I am planning on pulling the old 5th wheel with the old Dodge/Cummins back to Canada and Alaska this summer. Best way I know to beat the heat. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 04/26/02
Date: Apr 27, 2002
Is there a data base of Kolb accidents? In the interest learning from other's experience, it may be worthwhile to catalog all Kolb related accidents and their suspected cause. Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Stripes" <stripes(at)voicenet.com>
Subject: Kolb Accidents.
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Hey Vic, Probably hard to catalogue all the accidents of Kolb ultralights. Of the ones I've read about, seems to me most have a good deal to do with pilot error, or builder errors (like using aluminum rivets instead of steel on the wing strut mounts). I haven't heard of any airframe failures. (except for the one done on purpose...!)And someone feel free to correct me if I say the FAA didn't get involved in ultralight accidents early on. But if you find a way, tell me please. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Almost Engine Out
Had a similar thing happen to a friend with his 503. First is there any change you might have developed a little carb ice. It can happen on two strokes also. Second, a Rotax can load up so when you go to full throttle it stumbles or quits as in my friends case. You need to keep clearing your engine (shot of throttle) when your buzzing. Last put a bypass around that squeeze bulb. Had a friend experience his first engine out when the check value in it stuck and he didn't have a by-pass installed. The Rotax can be a very quiet engine at times. Luckily he was on down wind when it happened. As a closing note, there are two type of blue fuel line, one by Bing that is alcohol resistant and the cheap stuff that gets hard and brittle. The Bing brand is repeatedly marked along it's entire length. jerryb > >Folks, > >This started out to be a great day. The sunshine was bright and >temperature around 60 which engine, prop, and wings really like. > >So I drove to the airport, assembled the Firefly, and attacked the sky. >Flew over to a friend's place where he has a new hangar and his own >strip. I normally land if the door is open and merely buzz if door is >closed. > >The door was closed today and as I powered up to climb back to >altitude, the engine started losing power and the drop in speed was >very quick so I immediately pointed the nose down and pulled the >throttle back. > >With throttle somewhat retarded, the engine picked up again, so I >tried to add power and had the same power loss again. Fortunately, I >had already started a GENTLE turn and the retarded throttle gave >enough power to make the 360 and land. > >My friend finally got home and allowed me to store the Firefly in his >hangar. I then called my daughter in law who came the 50 miles >from Cincinnati to pick me up and return me to my car and trailer. I >will drive over with the trailer and make the pickup in the morning. > >This raises the question of what should I do to resolve this problem. > >The engine has 85 hrs and I did the visual inspection at 55 hours >and planned on doing my first decarbon at 100 hours. > >Today's problem definitely seemed to me to be fuel supply related. >However, after giving this further thought, my current plan is to do the >decarbon now as well as replace the fuel pump and fuel lines. The >currently pump and lines are only 5 months old but line and pumps >are cheap. > >Looking for other suggestions in addition to these steps and look >forward to constructive criticism of this plan. > >Sure felt good that this happened so close to a landing strip. > >Gene Ledbetter >Cincinnati, OH >Firetly 85 hrs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Controls
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Well, the things ya find ! ! ! While researching back-up sensors for my new truck, I ran into something that I've seen several people ask about over the years..................fingertip control of accessories and/or functions. Most use the "fighter" style grip, with various switches. Here's an (expensive) alternative, that you could mount anywhere. Use your imagination......... Go to www.genosgarage.com and click on the link to "Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories." When that page opens, go down to, and click on, the 6th bullet - "Dodge Turbo Diesel - Electrical Accessories." On that page, go down to, and click on the 8th bullet - " Steering Wheel Accessory Commander." Spendy, but cool...........no, I'm not gonna buy one, but what I am gonna buy is at the 6th bullet on that page - "Parking Partner." The Ford Diesel I test drove had a similar system, and it REALLY worked. This is even better. My new baby is awful big, long & tall, and will be worse with the camper on board. John, this would work great on the back of yer 5'er. Gogittum Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EnaudZ(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Subject: Re: 2 cycle oil
Run 100:1 Amsoil at 80:1 per instructions on new qt. bottles ---for ultra-light "kit"type airplanes Duane Zollinger fs2503 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: 2 cycle oil
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Many use the 100:1 Amzoil, but I > remain at 50:1 Klotz. I would think that either of the two types of > Amzoil synthetics would be fine. I have the oil injection system on my 503, and am getting ready to run the motor for the first time since I received it. it had its break in and about 5 hours with the previous owner, before his incident. The oil injector varies ratio from low to higher depending on throttle, so what synthetic oil wold you recommend in the oil tank, as opposed to premixed? should I premix and used the injection for first tank... since this isn't a raw engine I'm not sure, but the motor has been sitting around a long time now. I am putting the fuel system together now. I got an ASC gascolator from Aircraft Spruce and was a bit disappointed. there was a large metal shaving just barely attached to the inside of the primer port threads, and the primer port is installed on the unfiltered side, which doesn't make much sense to me. Will still probably use it but why would they not put the primer port after the filter and the water separator? Also got my Facet pump, from Aircraft Spruce and it is a dense little thing! Originally I was going to go for the parallel fuel lines but it is hard to argue with John H's years of success with them in series, and it is simpler and liter which is always good. Also getting one of the primers to make starting easier when its cold here. ( 1" of snow last night... April 27th for goodness sake, that's weird even for here.) I thought about putting in a two way valve after the E-pump and running primmer line from one side of that. then to prime, with the valve to prime, turn on the E-pump for a second or so then with the valve back and pull the cord. What do you guys think of that? Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Subject: John Ballantyne's comment
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
PERSONAL RESPONSE TO THE SPORT PILOT NPRM John Ballantyne April 27, 2002 Docket Management System U.S. Department of Transportation Room Plaza 401 400 Seventh St., SW Washington, DC 20590-0001 Re: Certification of Aircraft and Airmen for the Operation of Light- Sport Aircraft; Proposed Rule Docket No. FAA-2001-11133; Notice no. 02-03 Commentors background I have been involved in aviation all of my life of 56 years. My father and mother flew and we always had a family plane. I first soloed an airplane (Cessna 140) when 16 years old in 1962. I began hang gliding in 1977 and shortly thereafter became part owner of the dominant hang glider training school in southern California. For 3 years I taught ground school and primary flight training, and managed the facility at Playa del Rey, California. Circa 1979 the United States Hang Gliding Association (USHGA) formed a Powered Hang Glider Division for which I became a ground and flight instructor. Also for USHGA, John Lake and I conducted USHGA Powered Hang Glider Instructor seminars (ICP). In 1979 I was president of the Southland Hang Gliding Club which was the forerunner of the United States Hang Gliding Association. In 1980 I founded, owned and operated UltraSport, Inc., the first full service flight training and retail center for powered ultralight aviation in the Los Angeles area. I authored flight instructing programs and techniques including a tethered flight simulator that were publicized throughout the aviation industry. During this time I became one of the first FAA Safety Counselors for powered ultralights. Based on my experience and industry notoriety, the Experimental Aircraft Association invited me to be the founding president of their Ultralight Division circa 1982-1984. I served in that volunteer role until shortly before EAA closed the division in 1984. At AOPA Air Safety Foundation I wrote the original FAA recognized ultralight pilot/instructor training program from which all others have been derived. This was shortly after the issuance of FAR Part 103 (Ultralight Vehicles). There was close cooperation with FAA Flight Standards and FAA Accident Analysis. I am the founder and past president of the United States Ultralight Association, Inc., the largest association devoted entirely to ultralight aviation in the world. On behalf of USUA I have written many petitions and exemption requests to FAA and developed member support programs of all kinds. I have served on the Board of Directors for the National Aeronautic Association for over 10 years. USUAs highest honor, the John Moody Award for outstanding contribution to ultralight aviation, was awarded to me in 1995. I am privileged to have received in 1999 the highest international microlight award, the Colibri Diploma as "the pre-eminent leader for ultralight and microlight aviation in the United States for 27 years." Only three other individuals have ever received a Colibri Diploma, and I am the only American. My certificates include FAA commercial pilot and instructorglider and private privileges for airplane (ASEL) with an instrument rating, USHGA Master hang glider pilot/instructor, aero-towing exemption holder, and seminar presenter, AOPA Air Safety Foundation ultralight pilot, instructor, seminar presenter and USUA Ultralight Flight Instructor #1 and seminar presenter. I am the only individual to have received an FAA Commercial and Flight Instructor certificate by flying a trike (weight-shift control). I am the only individual who participated in every ARAC meeting from which Sport Pilot (NPRM 11133) has come. (Even the primary FAA representative missed a couple.) Finally, I care deeply about ultralight-type aviation, hang gliding and soaring, and hope to not only influence FAA but to influence others, too. Please consider my comments and agree in writing to FAA on those points you find validespecially the two-level approach. It will take many comments to sway FAA to draw the ultralight exemptions into a second Special FAR, so I invite you join with me. Historic Overview FAA has made numerous attempts to resolve regulatory problems associated with their inability to keep up with the growing interest in air sports aviation in general, and ultralight aviation in particular. I have observed and participated in the development of these regulatory attempts by FAA including Ultralight Vehicles, Recreational Pilot, Primary Category Aircraft, Sport Plane and now Light Sport Aircraft/Sport Pilot. In the past 15 years FAA organized research groups (paid by public funds) including a major regulatory review by Booze Allen Hamilton in 1988-1989 and the Aviation Rulemaking Advisory Committee (ARAC) Ultralight Working Group from 1993-1999. In every case so far FAA has repeatedly (and admittedly) missed the regulatory need. This is simply because they do not comprehend the nature of the aviation segment they are trying to regulate. Over the past 30 years the convenience of jet powered commercial aircraft, combined with a vastly improved roadway system for modern automobiles, has gradually eroded the perceived utility of the four- place family airplane. At the same time the evolutionary trend has gradually increased the relative value of aviation sports where participants choose craft that often appear unconventional but fly well and are too slow to be used for reliable transportation. They are for fun flying. They cost no more than their motorized counterparts in water and land sports. Flying, especially at slow speeds and in open cockpits, is tremendously rewarding. It is like you are flying. This trend is not a reinvention of airplanes so much as an expansion of recreation. It is intensely personal. When allowed to let go of an unspoken need to regulate aviation as a transportation utility, the practical side of the regulatory approach changes. Risk management is different for pilots slow speed and low inertia aircraft. Danger tends to develop more slowly allowing the pilot to take corrective action based on a thought process more than relying on checklists. Therefore ultralight pilot training programs weight the decision-making process more than the emergency checklist type of approach required when flying relatively fast, heavy aircraft. FAAs focus on transportation is precluding a clear view of the issues in air sports. NPRM 11133 says in part, "**There is uncertainty as to what extent the NTSBs database has fully captured those accidents involving unregistered light-sport aircraft over the past 10 years... There is uncertainty as to what extent these exemption holders databases have fully captured those accidents for unregistered light-sport aircraft over the past 10 years... Because the accident databases listed above may not capture all relevant accidents, the potential safety benefits estimate for light-sport aircraft may be understated." The existing regulatory system does not provide for a reasonable path of entry and progressive development for ultralight/microlight pilots and instructors. The result is safety problems that are hidden from statistical analysis because FAA and NTSB ignore most microlight accidents (i.e. experimental-aircraft-with-ultralight-operating- characteristics). This is a serious matter. Some individuals have unnecessarily died because the reporting systems have failed to reveal common causes of accidents from which others could learn and improved regulatory programs created. It also prevents a reasonable business environment on which to base an industry. The cost of being unresponsive to this evolutionary trend is measured in wasted money and lives. Yet, interest in microlight aviation is very strong in America and elsewhere around the world. In 1994, twenty-five countries reported to the international microlight commission more than 82,000 active pilots and 47,000 microlights that flew more than one million flight hours. One hundred eleven manufacturers reported a production total of 4,954 new planes just during that 12-month period. Each year the United States Ultralight Association, Inc. receives growing numbers of inquires by those who hope to fulfill life-long dreams of personal flight. These numbers illustrate that many individuals worldwide are attracted to aviation sports for the deep fulfillment and personal accomplishment which fun flying offers. ARAC Aug 17, 1993-Ultralight Vehicle Working Group FAA created a working group for "ultralights" on August 17, 1993. Thepurpose was to address the petitions of the USUA and generally to address the cadre of air sports aircraft and pilots that had developed during recent history. FAAs NPRM 11133 reports that it considered all, and incorporated some, of the ARAC committee recommendations. But there is much more to the story. First ARAC Recommendation (Unanimity!) After many meeting and long discussions, the Ultralight ARAC group met in December, 1995, and proudly voted to hand the draft NPRM to FAA. The agreement was not merely "consensus," but unanimousno dissenters or withheld votes whatsoever. Interestingly, however, the proposal then was very different. It recommended to FAA: An aircraft maximum weight of 992 pounds (450 kilos), and Stall speed of 35 kts, No flights over congested areas, and to Otherwise resemble ultralight regulation (Part 103). An "Umbrella of Standards" would permit any form of new aircraft and pilot programs without rulemakingeven those kinds not yet invented. Every group agreed to recommend no changes to part 103, ultralight regulation. A separate FAR part was recommended and it would be named "Microlight." What happened when ARAC unanimously (and very proudly) agreed to hand the finished recommendations NPRM to FAA just before Christmas in 1995? Silence. After some weeks had passed there came reports of FAA holding private meetings with notable individuals from general aviation, and the Experimental Aircraft Association in particular. After a full year of stalling, FAA began to call another set of ARAC meetings. By then most of the sporting groups had lost faith in the sincerity of FAA and the meetings became dominated with associations such as EAA, Aero Sports Connection, Capella and the Small Aircraft Manufacturers Association. They gained a majority of voting power and created a new recommendation with much higher weight, speed and pilot privileges. Sometime between the end of the ARAC meetings and the release of Sport Pilot (NPRM 11133), FAA internally decided to again increase the weights for some reason. Only that second, final recommendation is reported by FAA. FAA says, "The ARAC working group submitted its recommendations to FAA for review in July, 1998. Much of FAAs proposal is based on ARACs sport pilot certification recommendation..." The FAA did not adopt even one portion of the original, unanimous ARAC recommendations. But they were valid recommendations and should not be lost just because they werent what FAA wanted to hear. ARAC did not recommend use of FAR 61 & 91. FAA writes, "The ARAC recommended FAA include detailed privileges and limits in part 61" This is incorrect. The ARAC group first recommended a new regulation (FAR). FAA made it clear that that was not an option, so the ARAC group reluctantly compromised by saying that FAA could place it as they wished so long as the tone, feel and intention was met. FAA immediately responded that Parts 61 and 91 would be the location, and now reports to the public that it was an ARAC recommendation. International Harmonization Issues Additionally, the international microlight community has provided (1994) written encouragement for FAA to adopt international microlight aircraft parameters which were exactly included in the first ARAC recommendation. FAA has completely ignored this recommendation by the principal international representative group and instead refers to a few individual countries that have the expanded definitions that apparently better suits FAA intention. The increases from 992 pounds maximum to 1232; and especially the increase from 35 knot stall to 44 knot stall, is significant and in my experience has a profound effect on aircraft airworthiness and pilot training requirements. FAA simply states that, "[International harmonization]is based on the premise that the number of the requirements contained in the proposal (namely, aircraft certification standards) essentially mirrors those that already exist internationally." This is insufficient justification to my mind. Aviation Disciplines Ultralight aviation is a cultural matter as well as technical specialty. Those who fly for fun have different regulatory needs than those intending to fly traditional aircraft for personal transportation in the airways and over cities. This cultural issue may again be being submerged under the push for a reduced medical and cheaper aircraft for existing pilots, the apparent thrust of Sport Pilot (NPRM 11133). FAA staff are, in general, very educated and caring people. I enjoy knowing many of them and like the debating event that often occurs when I am in their Washington DC offices. FAA headquarters is less than 50 miles from my home, so I visit FAA whenever it seems advantageous. However, not one single FAA employee within flight standards headquarters has personally flown ultralights on a regular basis for recreation. Flight standards is where pilot and instructor programs are created. The vacuum of actual, personal involvement in ultralight air sports has meant that hearsay and preconceived notions have become the basis for regulatory "improvement" at FAA headquarters. FAA focus on transportation is eclipsing an accurate view of air sports aviation. Because they do not understand this aviation group, their regulatory approaches have not worked well. The primary FAA representative to the Sport Pilot ARAC meetings retired shortly after the meetings stopped. The very nice and capable person who is the new Sport Pilot coordinator and spokesperson never actually attended any sport pilot ARAC working group meeting. In fact no FAA employed now involved has first hand knowledge of the political and cultural issues that were discussed for so many hours. It is better when the regulators participate in the community to be regulated. Surely the airlines would not stand for a regulatory department of individuals who had no commercial aviation experience. What if a town council in Iowa regulated a town in Oregon? I dont think so. No FAA employees in Flight Standards have yet been ultralighters, and none have regularly personally attended the ARAC meetings. I believe this reduces the quality of rule proposals such as NPRM 11133, and makes comments from the aviation community more important. Personal Recommendations Sport Pilot: A Two-Tiered Approach is Required I support a process for the slower, simpler fat single and two-place ultralights, and also I do not object to the FAA proposed higher parameters as they may also benefit some of my fellow aviators. I agree with USUA which believes both things should take place, both methods through 2 special regulations (S-FARS)one S-FAR as now proposed and a second S-FAR associated with ultralight regulation to support the fat and two-place ultralights as proposed originally by ARAC when it was composed of more air sports groups. Basic proposal is OK for existing FAA pilots Overall, the existing FAA proposal would be helpful to existing FAA licensed pilots and instructors. Some want to increase their flight privileges to include faster aircraft and overflight of cities. The proposed rule could provide that. I also believe the definition of the aircraft which a sport pilot could fly should be increased enough to include aircraft such as Cessna 150, 152, Piper Tomahawk, and other common 2-place general aviation aircraft. Finally, FAA might be wise to simply incorporate these changes into Recreational Pilot as FAA so strongly lobbied for during many ARAC meetings. The trick for FAA will be to adopt programs with these broad pilot privileges that end up being significantly "less" than the long-standing private pilot certificate (the downfall of Recreational Pilot). Of special significance and commendation are the proposed new categories of aircraft for powered parachutes and trikes (weight- shift to FAA). This is very important as it would allow full private piloting privileges and would not limit powered parachutes and trikes to only 2 seats. If, as I fear might be the case, the sport pilot certificate gets too close to the private certificate, applicants could select to go directly to private while being trained entirely in powered parachutes or trikes as they choose. This may end up being the most successful part of the entire proposal related to pilot and instructor certification. Forcing all fat-single and two-seaters pilots into higher, further and faster aircraft is excessive, unnecessary and dangerous. Many with whom I have spoken only want reasonable regulatory avenue to fly "fat" single and two-place ultralights for recreation. USUA and other groups have repeatedly petitioned FAA about this. FAAs proposed requirement for every pilot and instructor of fat single seaters and two-place ultralight trainers go back into training for 130 mph aircraft is simply overkill. Each pilot would have to pass a comprehensive written test on general aviation rules (parts 61 & 91), an oral examination and flight test using some notoriously difficult to fly aircraft which could have top speeds over 130 mph and fly over our cities and towns. Existing ultralight operations demonstrate that many individuals prefer to give up such transportation-oriented speeds and over-city flights in trade for more recreationally oriented training programs such as now in use by several ultralight associations. Solution: Second level tier What I believe FAA should do is to create a two-tiered approach: sport pilot as proposed, and a second tier to address fat single and two-place ultralights. This mirrors the original ARAC recommendation for a separate FAR. Just as FAA proposes to attach a special federal regulation (S-FAR) named Sport Pilot to existing regulations of parts 61 & 91, I recommend that FAA attach a second S-FAR, named Ultralight Aircraft, to part 103 (Ultralight Vehicles). Two-seaters for training and recreation, "fat" single-seaters Here is where the original, unanimous, ARAC recommendation can again be utilized. Bring into the second level tier the two-place training programs, recreational use of two-seaters, and a modestly increased definition for single seaters (H. O. Scale) as has been discussed and requested for decades by USUA, the international microlight commission, other air sports organizations and contained within the sport pilot ARACs first recommendation. Two-seater Ultralights FAA mistakenly reports that, " in 1995 when it issued the first exemption from part 103 for training." [Emphasis is mine] This is a very inaccurate and seriously misleading statement by FAA. FAA actually began issuing exemptions allowing two-seat ultralights for training in 1983, only 9 months after issuing ultralight regulation (part 103) in October 1982. FAA has repeatedly renewed these exemptions to 4 or 5 various organizations every two years thereafter for almost 2 decades. Interestingly, FAA also states, "Although we [FAA] issued exemptions to temporarily resolve the training issues, to extend them on a long- term basis would be an inappropriate use of the exemption process [emphasis is mine]. The FAA believes that a permanent and appropriate level of regulation is necessary." I dont know how many years FAA has to continuously issue an exemption before it is considered "inappropriate use of the exemption process." But nineteen consecutive years of uninterrupted exemption renewals for multiple associations surely demonstrates the importance and significance to both FAA and the ultralight community for the need for two-place "ultralights." It also illustrates that the ultralight community has, in fact, operated two-seaters although the actual ultralight rule limits ultralights to only one seat. In practice FAA has (sensibly) allowed two-seaters since the beginning. It is important to keep open the option for the training programs developed around two-seat ultralights. And through the years it has become clear that those who were trained in two-seat ultralights learned to fly two-seat ultralights. The Solution: FAA should add a stage, or tier, of regulation to the proposal the additional S-FAR should be similar to the S-FAR now proposed by FAA in that the Ultralight Aircraft S-FAR would provide FAA certificates for pilots and instructors, and "N" numbers for the aircraft. The written, oral and flight tests would be based on existing ultralight programs and enforced by FAA. Administration of the program might be, or might not be, through membership associations. The operating rules would come from part 103 including prohibition on flights over congested areas, not into ATC controlled airspace without prior permission, and no night flyingexactly as ultralight vehicles are presently limited. Now proposed by FAA: I recommend that a second-level be added: This two-tiered approach encourages the FAA "Sport Pilot" to be finalized while permitting ultralighters to gain the authority for two-seat recreation use under the more restrictive ultralight regulation. This second option is critical for those who want to fly todays ultralights and do not mind being relegated to rural areas. I also recommend that FAR part 103 (Ultralight Vehicles) to be left unchanged. FAA Proposed Pilot/Instructor Program Requirements Are Impossible to Evaluate Sport pilot and instructor training programs are impossible to evaluate because they do not exist. FAA says that it will take from industry programs when establishing the standards (Pilot Testing Standards, PTS). But will FAA derive a program significantly different that private pilot? Only time will tell. Airworthiness "Consensus Standard" Impossible to Evaluate It is not possible to evaluate the contents of the airworthiness "consensus standards" for light sport aircraft as proposed by FAA until such standards exist. FAA words the NPRM to almost lead the reader to believe that the manufacturers will have say over the contents of the program, but FAA certainly has the last and final approval authority. How appropriate and reasonable will FAA be? We cannot know until we see a finished consensus standard. Therefore ultralight manufacturers, the FAA, and other affected parties should get together and create and publish the industry consensus standard before the public is obligated to respond to the NPRM without a full awareness of the ramifications of the light-sport aircraft certification process and costs. Aircraft Options Need Not Be Withheld Ultralight aviation has hosted vehicles with retractable land gear, variable pitch propellers, multi engines, and even an occasional pure- jet engine. FAA now proposes to make those combinations unavailable to sport pilots even though they will "be trained to a higher standard." Why should this be? I am aware of no evidence that these options have caused significant or wide-spread safety problems in single and two-seat ultralights. Even model airplanes now have functional turbine engines. Some designers are talking of ultralight-type aircraft with multi engines (maybe 6, 8 or more engines) to minimize the dependence on any one engine. Retractable landing gear and variable pitch propellers are not complex devices only for those pilots with superior intelligence. Besides, some ultralighters have superior intelligence. The largest reported complexity with retractable landing gear is simply remembering to put it down before landing. Lets let those who are willing to accept additional training and receive an instructors log endorsement utilize these devices if they wish. Include all Sport Aviation Segments In addition to the groups addressed by FAA in NPRM 11133, I would like to specifically recommend that at least the Ultralight Vehicle SFAR include: gyroplanes (one and two-seaters), tandem hang gliding, tandem powered paragliding and aero-towing of hang gliders which have somehow been left out of FAAs NPRM 11133. These activities have taken place under FAA exemption for many years and there is no basis in safety to terminate the activity of which I am aware. By issuing and reissuing exemptions for these purposes, FAA implies that aero-towing, two-place training and recreational flying in all forms of "ultralight" flying, including powered paragliding are important. This is correct. Also consider the fact that the tandem exemption for hang gliding includes the option of passenger flights for recreation. This has caused no problems. These items should be perpetuated by inclusion in the Ultralight Vehicle SFAR as they are allowed by exemption today. To leave out these segments is to create a safety problem related to training because it will force single place training to be the only option. This is where the instructor (if there is one) stands on the ground and coaches (by hand signals or radio) the students first flights. Surely FAA does not deliberately intend to do this. Category/Class Checkout Will Satisfy Safety Issues Pilot and instructor make/model-specific checkouts is unwarranted based on my considerable experience in providing transition training. Transition training is sometimes important, but it need not be federal law. The requirements within an Ultralight Aircraft (SFAR) instructor "aircraft" check out should be identical to what it is under the several training exemptions. Namely this is category/class checkout by a qualified instructor, but no make/model specific requirement. Again, accident data supporting an increase in existing requirements for the same aircraft is non-existent (remember the tier named Ultralight Vehicle SFAR is limited to only those two-place craft now known as ultralight trainers). Closing I appreciate the opportunity to make this personal comment for all to read. I hope it influences FAA. Too often my personal work in "industry and government" working groups has suffered from major compromise and political shenanigans. I love air sports aviation. What I recommend is from my deepest convictions and based on thousands of hours of flying and teaching. John Ballantyne ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Subject: Re: 2 cycle oil
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Topher and others, The 447 engine I am using is premixed and was broken in on Klotz synthetic oil. I have not seen a problem in doing this, however, most pilots agree to break it in on mineral for 10 hours first. Although mechanical fuel pumps are reliable (had one on for 400 hours), I have never heard of an electric pump, connected in series, being used when the mechanical pump failed. I would suspect that if there came a time to use the electric facet pump, it would not pump fuel to the carburetor as expected. This is because the facet would pump fuel right through the mechanical pump's ruptured diaphragm, through the pulse line, and into the engine's crankcase causing it to quit. The only way to prevent this would be to connect the pump in parallel, with check valves. These guys that have their facet pumps connected in series (2-stroke engines), may be in for a big surprise when they need it the most. Solution: forget the facet pump and simply replace the mechanical Mikuni pump every 3 years for $22.95. Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it writes: > > > Many use the 100:1 Amzoil, but I > > remain at 50:1 Klotz. I would think that either of the two types > of > > Amzoil synthetics would be fine. > > > I have the oil injection system on my 503, and am getting ready to > run the > motor for the first time since I received it. it had its break in > and about > 5 hours with the previous owner, before his incident. The oil > injector > varies ratio from low to higher depending on throttle, so what > synthetic oil > wold you recommend in the oil tank, as opposed to premixed? should > I premix > and used the injection for first tank... since this isn't a raw > engine I'm > not sure, but the motor has been sitting around a long time now. > > I am putting the fuel system together now. I got an ASC gascolator > from > Aircraft Spruce and was a bit disappointed. there was a large metal > shaving > just barely attached to the inside of the primer port threads, and > the > primer port is installed on the unfiltered side, which doesn't make > much > sense to me. Will still probably use it but why would they not put > the > primer port after the filter and the water separator? Also got my > Facet > pump, from Aircraft Spruce and it is a dense little thing! > Originally I was > going to go for the parallel fuel lines but it is hard to argue with > John > H's years of success with them in series, and it is simpler and > liter which > is always good. Also getting one of the primers to make starting > easier > when its cold here. ( 1" of snow last night... April 27th for > goodness > sake, that's weird even for here.) I thought about putting in a two > way > valve after the E-pump and running primmer line from one side of > that. then > to prime, with the valve to prime, turn on the E-pump for a second > or so > then with the valve back and pull the cord. What do you guys think > of > that? > > > Topher > > > > > messages. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Young" <j.y(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Ditching
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Hi All I've enjoyed reading this list and learned some good stuff thank you all. Now it's time to Delurk and ask a question, so please be kind ! I'm going to be crossing the English Channel in a couple of months for the first time in a Twinstar. Now I know it's not far, but it has got an unforgiving nature (the Channel Not the Twinstar). So I'd like to be prepared. Has anyone got any experience of Ditching in the Twinstar MKlll ? Some people this side of the pond recommend jumping out a few feet above the water. ( I've got full doors and maybe opening them in flight would be difficult). What do you think ? John MK111/582 UK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Ditching
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Possum ?? Possum ?? Oooohhh.............Possum ?? John, we have a true expert in ditching here somewhere. Seriously............I'm not real sure about the Twinstar, but I was taught to stall a Cessna in as tail first as possible, to try and "stick" the tail to the water, to help slow it down, and help prevent a flip over. It's also taught to have the doors unlatched before you hit, so they can't jam shut if the airframe tweaks under the impact. Make sure your shoulder straps are tight, to prevent kissing the panel, tho' in a Kolb, that's highly unlikely. Are you the fella who was with Clive Hatcher at SnF ?? If so, hello again...........it was nice to meet both of you. Gogittum Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Young" <j.y(at)blueyonder.co.uk> Subject: Kolb-List: Ditching > > Hi All > > I've enjoyed reading this list and learned some good stuff thank you > all. > > Now it's time to Delurk and ask a question, so please be kind ! > > I'm going to be crossing the English Channel in a couple of months for > the first time in a Twinstar. > Now I know it's not far, but it has got an unforgiving nature (the > Channel Not the Twinstar). So I'd like to be prepared. > > Has anyone got any experience of Ditching in the Twinstar MKlll ? > Some people this side of the pond recommend jumping out a few feet above > the water. ( I've got full doors > and maybe opening them in flight would be difficult). > > What do you think ? > > John MK111/582 UK > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Subject: Re: Ditching
In a message dated 4/28/02 3:45:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, biglar(at)gogittum.com writes: << Possum ?? Possum ?? Oooohhh.............Possum ?? John, we have a true expert in ditching here somewhere. Seriously............I'm not real sure about the Twinstar, but I was taught to stall a Cessna in as tail first as possible, to try and "stick" the tail to the water, to help slow it down, and help prevent a flip over. It's also taught to have the doors unlatched before you hit, so they can't jam shut if the airframe tweaks under the impact. Make sure your shoulder straps are tight, to prevent kissing the panel, tho' in a Kolb, that's highly unlikely. Are you the fella who was with Clive Hatcher at SnF ?? If so, hello again...........it was nice to meet both of you. Gogittum Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com >> Hi folks, this reminds me of the pterodactyl that went down in 18 ft of water near me. Driver was an experienced pilot but was confused as to what to do when he lost a spark plug wire over Mosquito lake near here. He told me he didn't know whether he should have unbuckled just before he hit the water (as slow as the pteradactyl could go) or leave it trussed up around him. Well, he chose to leave it on...which was ALMOST the last mistake he ever made because the cage went under immediately with him strapped in, and the dad gummed machine settled deeper as it started to go down .....BACKWARDS INTO MUDDY SIGHTLESS WATER...talk about John Kennedy and blind flying all over again....and he ends up on the bottom of the lake UPSIDE DOWN UNBEKNOWNS TO HIM. He thought the bottom of the lake was the top and the top was the bottom!! Couldn't see nothin and was still strapped in!! Flying wires all over the place and he almost drowned...said after he finally got out of the tangle at the bottom ....pushing off the bottom and hitting the plane with his head creating further disorientation, he was of a mind to end it all by taking water into his lungs after seemingly forever underwater, when his hand broke water and he was saved by a nearby small craft. His testimony was ....he will always take off his seat belt before inundation and brace himself against the certain impulse by hand to minimize the amount of stuff to be done after being forced to operate blind. Something to ponder....don't you think? George Randolph Firestar driver from Akron ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dalewhite(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Subject: Tucson AZ newby
I live in Tucson and would like to talk to someone knowledgeable about the Kolb and Rotax line. TIA dw ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Ditching
Date: Apr 28, 2002
John, You WILL be wearing a life jacket and have the necessary survival gear with you, right? You will also do the very best preflight ever and have had everthing checked and rechecked before you begin, right? (See the previous recent posts on engine failures.) Personally, I think the best policy is to always be within gliding distance to a posible landing site. I do not know how wide the channel is at the point you intend to cross but this might result in a very high altitude flight! Best of luck and have a safe flight. Jim Charlotte, NC Mark III ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Young" <j.y(at)blueyonder.co.uk> Subject: Kolb-List: Ditching > > Hi All > > I've enjoyed reading this list and learned some good stuff thank you > all. > > Now it's time to Delurk and ask a question, so please be kind ! > > I'm going to be crossing the English Channel in a couple of months for > the first time in a Twinstar. > Now I know it's not far, but it has got an unforgiving nature (the > Channel Not the Twinstar). So I'd like to be prepared. > > Has anyone got any experience of Ditching in the Twinstar MKlll ? > Some people this side of the pond recommend jumping out a few feet above > the water. ( I've got full doors > and maybe opening them in flight would be difficult). > > What do you think ? > > John MK111/582 UK > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EnaudZ(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Subject: Re: Ditching
Put it on a boat and haul it acrossed the bloody channel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb accident database
In a message dated 4/27/02 10:54:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, vicw(at)vcn.com writes: > Is there a data base of Kolb accidents? You can go to NTSB.GOV and do a search on Kolb. This was a key factor in my decision to build a Kolb. Steven G. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kenny Broste" <kenandmona(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Tucson AZ newby
Date: Apr 28, 2002
Dale, I see that you're from Tucson. Same here. Are you building a Kolb Firestar or are you flying one now? I'm about 60% done on my Firestar II with about with about 70 % left to do. Actually I've got it covered and getting ready to paint. Are you familiar with H.L. Cooper's ultralight field? I know that there is two or three Kolb's flying out of there. I'm not very familiar about the Rotax engines, but H L would be the man locally that you'd want to talk with he's been flying ultralights for maybe 20 years with about a gazillion hours in them. Ken ----- Original Message ----- From: <Dalewhite(at)aol.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Tucson AZ newby > > I live in Tucson and would like to talk to someone knowledgeable about the > Kolb and Rotax line. TIA > dw > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Ditching
> >Hi All > >I've enjoyed reading this list and learned some good stuff thank you >all. > >Now it's time to Delurk and ask a question, so please be kind ! > >I'm going to be crossing the English Channel in a couple of months for >the first time in a Twinstar. >Now I know it's not far, but it has got an unforgiving nature (the >Channel Not the Twinstar). So I'd like to be prepared. > >Has anyone got any experience of Ditching in the Twinstar MKlll ? >Some people this side of the pond recommend jumping out a few feet above >the water. ( I've got full doors >and maybe opening them in flight would be difficult). > >What do you think ? Unbuckling your harness before you hit might be a bit uncomfortable, but then again it depends on which window your body is ejected through. But, if you're forced to make a water landing, here are some things to keep in mind. The trick is not to panic and no - I not telling you do die calmly. And that is probably the most least-likely-to-be-followed advice you'll ever been given. 1. Take a deep breath before you hit, you'll be under water very soon, and won't be coming back up for at least a few seconds. It helps to count, you know, " 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, etc. It's nice to know how long you're really under, it might seem a lot longer than it really is. 2. Don't try for shallow water (of course, your in the "Channel" - so I suppose that won't be a problem). When the wheels grab, the nose will dolphin, just like Flipper, and dive about 6 feet before the wings stop the momentum of the plane. Actually it's a rush; kind of like being hit by an airbag in a car. It only takes a second to go from 40 mph to 0. Don't know how many Gs that is. It also only takes a second for the cockpit to completely fill with water. 3. The worst part is that it feels like the plane is sinking, it's not. You're only a few feet under water, and the plane is actually slowly coming up. 4. The rest is pretty simple, unbuckle your harness, leave your helmet on but pull the wires loose from the radios, etc. Not having anything to judge this against, I supposed I was doing rather well until the shoulder harness tangled in my helmet/earphones. Just a noted this, because I could not remember how to unbuckle my helmet. Had to pull it off from the back - over my head. Perhaps it was the oxygen deprivation, but I was rather lost in my own little world for a while - about 10 seconds, I think. 5. If you have a full enclosure, it probably will still be locked, so unlock it or kick it out. By this time the plane will be floating, but you will still be under water. 6. Now just climb out onto the wings and wave down someone to pick you up, you've got about 10 minutes before the plane sinks. I was in a FireStar, and yours may act completely different. We've had a two-seater like yours go in since my adventure. It touched one wheel down and did kind of a half-turn and proceed to sink, neither of us flipped over. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2002
From: Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Ditching
If a water landing was inevitable in a wheeled airplane, coming down under the chute might be the best choice. I'd be thinking about wind velocity, and whether I could get it pointed directly upwind. I think I'd leave the harness hooked either way. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2002
From: Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
Subject: Re: Ditching
I've heard that a really good thing to do when planning on extensively overflying water is to stick some inner tubes inside the wings and inflate them. It's supposed to add only a tiny bit of weight, not affect the airfoil, but help keep the plane afloat (which helps the rescuers spot you). Obviously, choose a size that is appropriate, which won't cause any bulges, or interfere with any of the ailerons, etc. Also, take along an EPIRB in addition to all other emergency equipment. I understand the channel is cold 12 months a year, so you will have a very limited amount of time (probably <20 minutes) of in-water time before you succumb to hypothermia. So, you either need to be wearing a drysuit, or you need to make sure you can get into a life-raft very quickly and dry off. -- Robert ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net>
Subject: 2 cycle oil
Date: Apr 29, 2002
Topher, Will and I have been using Penz 100% synthetic marine oil in our engines with excellent results. Available at WalMart for about $20.00 a gallon. Real convenient, as W-mars are everywhere. Dave. -----Original Message----- From: Christopher John Armstrong [SMTP:Tophera(at)centurytel.net] Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2 cycle oil Many use the 100:1 Amzoil, but I > remain at 50:1 Klotz. I would think that either of the two types of > Amzoil synthetics would be fine. I have the oil injection system on my 503, and am getting ready to run the motor for the first time since I received it. it had its break in and about 5 hours with the previous owner, before his incident. The oil injector varies ratio from low to higher depending on throttle, so what synthetic oil wold you recommend in the oil tank, as opposed to premixed? should I premix and used the injection for first tank... since this isn't a raw engine I'm not sure, but the motor has been sitting around a long time now. I am putting the fuel system together now. I got an ASC gascolator from Aircraft Spruce and was a bit disappointed. there was a large metal shaving just barely attached to the inside of the primer port threads, and the primer port is installed on the unfiltered side, which doesn't make much sense to me. Will still probably use it but why would they not put the primer port after the filter and the water separator? Also got my Facet pump, from Aircraft Spruce and it is a dense little thing! Originally I was going to go for the parallel fuel lines but it is hard to argue with John H's years of success with them in series, and it is simpler and liter which is always good. Also getting one of the primers to make starting easier when its cold here. ( 1" of snow last night... April 27th for goodness sake, that's weird even for here.) I thought about putting in a two way valve after the E-pump and running primmer line from one side of that. then to prime, with the valve to prime, turn on the E-pump for a second or so then with the valve back and pull the cord. What do you guys think of that? Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: FireStar Chord Dimension
I am a little confused on the chord dimension of the FireStar for CG purposes. The weight and balance sheet shows it as 61 inches. This would be from the leading edge of the wing to the trailing edge of the aileron. 61 inches is only true at the outter 92 inches of the wing where the ailerons are. Since the FireStar does not have flaps, the chord dimension for the inboard 62 inches is 50 & 5/8 inches. Do you disregard the inboard part of the wing and only consider the outboard section where the ailerons are for CG calculations?=0D =0D Ron Payne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dalewhite(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 29, 2002
Subject: Re: Tucson AZ newby
Ken, Thanks for the quick reply. I live just north of Catalina. I am scheduled to take an introductory flight with H. L. tomorrow morning in a "Rebel". I am brand new to this idea so am trying to collect, understand and sort out a lot of information. I like what I have read of the Kolb and take comfort in its reatively long existance. I am probably more concerned with the reliablity factor of the engine. I'm gone for today but I'll for sure drop you a line after my "flight". dw ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org>
Subject: Attaching Lexan windshields
Date: Apr 29, 2002
I have a question for someone. I'm rebuilding an Ultra Star and in the process I've added a nose pod which I constructed from aluminum with a fiberglass nose. I also made a bulkhead/instrument panel from aluminum. I want to attach a 1/8" Lexan windshield to the aluminum nose pod which will run back about a foot on the top rail of the fuselage cage. How should I attach the Lexan? Screws with lock nuts, rivets, screws and rubber grommets???? Any ideas? Thanks, Dale Sellers Georgia do not achieve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Attaching Lexan windshields
Date: Apr 29, 2002
I can see where I'm going to have to modify my website. Went into "Building Vamoose," and then "Gullwing Doors" to double check the attachment method, and it's not there...............so it'll soon be put there. In the meantime................I have found that, while the handsaw works well, a pair of large tinsnips is faster and easier. Just cut the stuff like heavy sheetmetal. You can't break it, tho' you do have to be careful of scratches. I used sheetmetal screws for the initial fastening, to double check fit, etc., then used the wide head aluminum rivets to anchor it permanently. Don't use stainless rivets here..........the lexan has to be able to move a bit to compensate for heat expansion & contraction. Top & bottom holes on the hinge side are 1/8" to maintain positive alignment. The rest.........ALL the rest...............are 3/16", while still using the 1/8" rivets. This allows for the movement needed. Vamoose has been sitting out in the Palm Springs sun, year round, for at least 3 years now, and there's not a crack in sight. Gogittum Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> Subject: Kolb-List: Attaching Lexan windshields > > I have a question for someone. I'm rebuilding an Ultra Star and in the > process I've added a nose pod which I constructed from aluminum with a > fiberglass nose. I also made a bulkhead/instrument panel from aluminum. I > want to attach a 1/8" Lexan windshield to the aluminum nose pod which will > run back about a foot on the top rail of the fuselage cage. How should I > attach the Lexan? Screws with lock nuts, rivets, screws and rubber > grommets???? Any ideas? > > Thanks, > Dale Sellers > Georgia > do not achieve > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 29, 2002
Subject: Re: Attaching Lexan windshields
In a message dated 4/29/02 9:05:02 AM, dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org writes: I have a question for someone. I'm rebuilding an Ultra Star and in the process I've added a nose pod which I constructed from aluminum with a fiberglass nose. I also made a bulkhead/instrument panel from aluminum. I want to attach a 1/8" Lexan windshield to the aluminum nose pod which will run back about a foot on the top rail of the fuselage cage. How should I attach the Lexan? Screws with lock nuts, rivets, screws and rubber grommets???? Any ideas? >> I used the Stits rivets, the ones with the big heads used for attaching fabric, gives a nice big head for holding and easy to drill out to remove for cleaning the lexan or for easy removal and replacement. Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Ditching
> >Altho stuffing a lot of small innertubes into a wing may be a way to >increase flotation time in a dunking, another easier--but perhaps more >expensive method would be filling the wings with Ping Pong balls. been >done before on a transatlantic flight. I heard of a guy that did one of these crossings in a FlightStar and stuffed his wings with inflated condoms. Besides - it's only 26 miles and with the comdons and all - you might get lucky in France. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: MK III (Classic) Question
Date: Apr 29, 2002
I purchased my MK III quickbuild kit back when Dennis Souder (is he still around?) and the gang in PA where producing the kits. I ran into a number of problems with the kit, primarily incomplete welds on components and missing components (not welded on) on the fuselage cage. To make a long story short, I started a new business, and the kit went on hold. My questions are: 1. Has there been an update of the plans, instruction manuals etc. from the those supplied with the MK III kit that was produced prior to acquisition of the company by the current owners? 2. Related to the above, have there been updates as to materials etc. supplied with the kit now produced, e.g. seats, fuel tanks etc. And finally, has anyone been able to order an upgrade from the MK III to the MK III xtra? If so, what was the (approximate) cost to do so and what was involved. Since I have the quickbuild version is this even a possibilty? One last question, are there any builders on the list in the Nashua, NH area? Thank you. Noel Nashua, NH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 29, 2002
Subject: Re: Ditching
In a message dated 4/28/02 2:40:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, j.y(at)blueyonder.co.uk writes: > Has anyone got any experience of Ditching in the Twinstar MKlll ? > Some people this side of the pond recommend jumping out a few feet above > Several of us have been planning a 60 mile trip across a bit of the Atlantic to the Bahamas. We plan to have a friend stationed about half-way with a hand-held radio in a fast 40' boat. He will also be equipped with a GPS. Rescue shouldn't be far off if one of us experiences problems. If you are travelling by yourself, you'll have room for a small inflatable boat. I would equip it with a hand-held radio, GPS, & flare gun. Maybe a 1/2 pint of Rum.......... Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Attaching Lexan windshields
Date: Apr 29, 2002
On the MIII classic, I'm attaching mine with the large head aluminum rivets - I think they are the same ones used for the fabric. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> Subject: Kolb-List: Attaching Lexan windshields > > I have a question for someone. I'm rebuilding an Ultra Star and in the > process I've added a nose pod which I constructed from aluminum with a > fiberglass nose. I also made a bulkhead/instrument panel from aluminum. I > want to attach a 1/8" Lexan windshield to the aluminum nose pod which will > run back about a foot on the top rail of the fuselage cage. How should I > attach the Lexan? Screws with lock nuts, rivets, screws and rubber > grommets???? Any ideas? > > Thanks, > Dale Sellers > Georgia > do not achieve > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 29, 2002
Subject: Re: Cheap Carb synchronizer - Build your Own
It is hard to beat the price of two new wooden pencils for synchronizing your carbs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Almost Engine Out
> As a closing note, there are two type of blue fuel line, one by Bing that > is alcohol resistant and the cheap stuff that gets hard and brittle. The > Bing brand is repeatedly marked along it's entire length. > jerryb jerryb/Gang: Went through a lot of polyurethane and "other" fuel line until a few years ago. Discovered Gates make a braided light and heavy duty fuel line. It is dirt cheap, last for years, uv is not a problem (as with the plastic stuff), real hose clamps do not cut but hold it in place. Only problem is I can not see the fuel inside. :-) Seriously, I have gone to all Gates heavy 1/4" ID neoprene fuel line. Too easy to let the plastic stuff catch up with you at the wrong time. It will look fine and be on the verge of coming apart. As an added note. Please, everyone, take a couple seconds to cut that part of the previous msg that does not add to the understanding of what you are writing. Sometimes these msgs get very long trying to wade through to find out what the originator has to offer. Only take a little of your time and save the rest of the List the time involved in extracting info. Thanks!!! john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 2 cycle oil
> One guy told me of a trainer in Arizona that has 1400 hours on his Rotax > without a teardown. This simply would not be possible using mineral oil. > > Ralph Burlingame Ralph/Gents: Was that operating hours? or hours in the hanger? We need to find out more on this one. I think this guy has a secret we all need to learn about. 1,400 hours on a Rotax UL engine is a long time, whether using organic or synthetic. I noticed Pennzoil and Shell have fully synthetic two stroke oil in Wal*Mart now. I am sure I would have burned synthetic when I was flying two strokes, but could not afford it then and did not believe all the claims that Amsoil was spouting, as they were the only ones I knew about at that time. Most all two stroke MX/Road Racing oil is now synthetic. I have been using Mobil I full sythetic in my 912/912S for the past nine years. Has been doing a good job. However, I think I will try the new Shell Rotella full synthetic in the 912S. I have been using Shell Rotella in all my Diesels and gas engines for 10 years now. The Rotella full sythetic is designed primarily for heavy diesels, but is also rated for gas engines. I need to do some more research, but the rating on the Rotella my include the gear lube additive that Rotax recommends we use in the 4 strokes. That specifically recommend a 4 stroke oil designed for motorcycles. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TJIND(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 30, 2002
Subject: Re: 2 cycle oil
Hello, I do not know how many of you have a Menards Home Center in your area(mostly midwest?) but they advertised Penzoil 100% Synthetic Outboard 2 cycle oil for both premix and injection systems. price is $16.77per gal. Same as Air cooled? Perhaps a Home Depot? Sorry John H I am unsure how to "cut" to keep my reply short. Any Mark lll's near Cedar Rapids Iowa? Thanks Tom Neenan 1991 Mark lll "nearly" done ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 2 cycle oil
Date: Apr 30, 2002
Hi Tom, I'm in Aurora, IL about 35 miles west of chicago, and will be flying my MIII out of Leland which I think is about 50-60 miles from the quad cities. How far are you from quad cities? Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: <TJIND(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2 cycle oil > > Hello, > I do not know how many of you have a Menards Home Center in your area(mostly > midwest?) but they advertised Penzoil 100% Synthetic Outboard 2 cycle oil for > both premix and injection systems. price is $16.77per gal. Same as Air > cooled? Perhaps a Home Depot? > Sorry John H I am unsure how to "cut" to keep my reply short. > Any Mark lll's near Cedar Rapids Iowa? > Thanks > Tom Neenan > 1991 Mark lll "nearly" done > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 912 and Warp prop
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: Apr 30, 2002
04/30/2002 12:56:43 PM I don't know how many of you guys get this Ultralight News, but here is a new one that came yesterday. Ultralight News EXTRA While at Sun N Fun I had an opportunity to talk to Rotech Researches Eric Tucker about a problem of loose head bolts I have found on a couple of 912 equipped ultralights. I mentioned to Eric about leaking heads on several 912 engines. He asked two questions, was the engine overheated? Was it using a Warp Drive propeller. The over heating problem if severe enough of course could lead warped heads and leaking heads. In the second case Eric indicated that the Warp Drive propeller has a harmonic resonance that acts on the head nuts loosening them off. I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at http://www.ultralightnews.com http://www.ultralightnews.ca http://www.ultralightflyer.com Dave Loveman L'il Hustler Ultralight Aviation Services Home of the L'il Buzzard, L'il Hustler, and L'il Hustler SS! North America's oldest Rotax engine service center. Serving the ultralight community full time since 1978. You are invited to visit http://www.ultralightnews.com http://www.ultralightnews.ca http://www.ultralightflyer.com Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: 912 and Warp prop
Where is L'il Hustler Ultralight Aviation Services located? -------Original Message------- From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Date: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 01:04:42 PM Subject: Kolb-List: 912 and Warp prop I don't know how many of you guys get this Ultralight News, but here is a new one that came yesterday. Ultralight News EXTRA While at Sun N Fun I had an opportunity to talk to Rotech Researches Eric Tucker about a problem of loose head bolts I have found on a couple of 912 equipped ultralights. I mentioned to Eric about leaking heads on several 912 engines. He asked two questions, was the engine overheated? Was it using a Warp Drive propeller. The over heating problem if severe enough of course could lead warped heads and leaking heads. In the second case Eric indicated that the Warp Drive propeller has a harmonic resonance that acts on the head nuts loosening them off. I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at http://www.ultralightnews.com http://www.ultralightnews.ca http://www.ultralightflyer.com Dave Loveman L'il Hustler Ultralight Aviation Services Home of the L'il Buzzard, L'il Hustler, and L'il Hustler SS! North America's oldest Rotax engine service center. Serving the ultralight community full time since 1978. You are invited to visit http://www.ultralightnews.com http://www.ultralightnews.ca http://www.ultralightflyer.com Jim _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Mark3 Classic Controls
Date: Apr 30, 2002
Re: early model dual controls provided on some Mk3 classics. The kind where the aileron control pushrods are located BEHIND the main control tube, not above it. As I continue to finalize the dual control system for my Mk3 I found another problem. In the most forward and farthest left stick position it is possible to have a controls lockup between the elevator control arm and bottom part of the aileron control arm at the front of the aileron torque tube. This is a very seldom used area of stick movement but by changing the way the aileron control arm bolt is installed and rounding off some square corners I have reduced the lockup potential to an annoying bump. Any of you folks flying with this kind of control system should check to see what I mean because I am sure the problem varies from plane to plane. Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL , FireFly/Mk3 Classic, 912 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Re: Gap Seal Tape
Date: Apr 30, 2002
Group - When applying the 3M #845 tape, it goes on on the UNDERSIDE, right? Dennis Kirby Mk-3 in New Mexico ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Young" <j.y(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Ditching
Date: Apr 30, 2002
Thanks to all of you for your useful advice, I hope I don't have to put it to practical use. It doesn't sound like too many Twinstars have had to ditch which is good news.( But bad if you want to know how they behave in the water) I have crossed the channel before, but in the Twinstar it should be a bit faster and definitely warmer than in an open cockpit Spectrum. Just waiting to get my plane back from the workshop, it got picked up by a freak wind? and dropped on a wing tip ( yes I know it should have been tied down, but how many people tie down on a calm day?....... me from now on !! learn from other people's mistake's and don't make them all yourself !! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Dennis Souder
Could anyone please give me Dennis' e-mail address.=0D =0D Ron Payne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Blane Cox" <coxhb(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Oil
Date: Apr 30, 2002
Synthetic oils work great but offer no internal rust protection. Something to think about for those living in humid areas. Air Wolf offers a synthetic/mineral blend to get the best of both. Blane ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2002
From: Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Oil
Blane, interesting about the corrosion thing--where did you pick up this info? I like Valvoline dura-blend. As an experiment compare the pour rate of a semi-synthetic and a mineral (same grade) at about 20 deg F. --big difference -BB Blane Cox wrote: > > > Synthetic oils work great but offer no internal rust protection. Something to think about for those living in humid areas. Air Wolf offers a synthetic/mineral blend to get the best of both. > Blane > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Mark3 Classic Controls
> As I continue to finalize the dual control system for my Mk3 I found anot> her problem. > Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL , FireFly/Mk3 Classic, 912 Duane/Gang: Are your tests being conducted with loaded or unloaded control surfaces? If you are conducting them unloaded, you made find far different results when they meet the same or similar amounts of resistance they would in flight at 60, 70, 80 mph. I think you could get an assistant to provide the resistance needed to get a good idea of how the controls react in that situation. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BICUM(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 2002
Subject: Re: 2 cycle oil
In a message dated 4/29/2002 6:55:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time, hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes: > I have been using Mobil I full synthetic in my 912/912S for > the past nine years. Has been doing a good job. > John H. What about the Service Bulletin on "full synthetic" and burning 100LL? I was thinking that you would burn a fair amount of 100LL traveling about as you do. I switched to Valvoline Syntec Blend because of the SB. Maybe with 27 gallon tank you don't have to fuel up away from home to often. Just curious, John Bickham Mark III - 912 St. Francisville, LA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Branscomb" <wbrans(at)provide.net>
Subject: Re: NTSB
Date: May 01, 2002
On my way to a sleep apena appt this AM, I pass right by a Baskin Robins ice cream shop. I'll think of you as I am eating a freebie. I hear the anguish re a new home for you mom; hope the arrangement works out OK. -w- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TCowan1917(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 2002
Subject: Re: oil
Has anyone ever tried or used rotax oil as for their water craft and such in our air application. friend bought a case and was just wondering. paid a BIG price too. ted cowan ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 3M 845 gap seals
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: May 01, 2002
05/01/2002 07:02:00 AM >Group - >When applying the 3M #845 tape, it goes on on the UNDERSIDE, right? >Dennis Kirby Yup, and put a strip of 1" wide adhesive-side toward the adhesive side on the 3" wide, to cover the unused adhesive down the center. So the tape goes on from the underside, adhesive side up. Wrap it around a 1" dowel, broom handle, pvc tube, etc, to control it. Cut the dowel to fit in the space between hinges, wrap on the tape, adhesive away from the dowel, and put it up into the space nice and straight in one shot. Then simply smooth down the edges. Its easier to do with the dowel than it is for me to explain. Good luck..... Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 2 cycle oil
John B/Gang: > What about the Service Bulletin on "full synthetic" and burning 100LL? Talked to Erick Tucker, ROTAX, about that before the installation of the 912S. Eric recommended using ALCOR TCP, a fuel additive developed during WWII to help scavenge lead from the big round engines on our bombers and fighters. Shell Oil used to add it to their auto gasoline many years ago. I was > thinking that you would burn a fair amount of 100LL traveling about as you > do. On the last trip to Alaska I burned aprx'ly 650 gallons 100LL. Maybe with 27 > gallon tank you don't have to fuel up away from home to often. At home I usually burn auto fuel. It is cheaper, but not by much now days, and the engine was designed to operate on it. I have a 25 gal (useable) fuel tank. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: John Hauck's 25 Gal Fuel Tank
Date: May 01, 2002
Just wondering John, do you have any plans or other information available for your fuel tank and/or other mod's made to your Kolb? Thank you. Noel ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: John Hauck's 25 Gal Fuel Tank
> Just wondering John, do you have any plans or other information > available for your fuel tank and/or other mod's made to your Kolb? > Noel Noel/Gents: No plans. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Ditching
> THIS IS SPAM GET ME OFF THIS. NOW "2000 PC PARTS" "2000 PC Parts": Pull your head out of your 4th point of contact, scroll down to the bottom of the page and see if you can follow the simple instructions after you click on "subscribe/unsubscribe". No need to holler or demand on this List. Take care and take it easy, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Ditching
> >THIS IS SPAM GET ME OFF THIS. NOW Open the pod bay doors, please, HAL... Open the pod bay door, please, Hal... Hal, do you read me? Affirmative, Dave. I read you. Then open the pod bay doors, HAL. I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that. I know that you and Frank were planning to disconnect me. Hey - just to change the subject. How many of you guy "really" de-carb your engines every 50 hours like it say in the manuel?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net>
Subject: Ditching
Date: May 01, 2002
Not I, if it ain't broke.... You will have to sort out the difference between Rotax liability maintenance schedules and what your engine/flying type require. My Rotax 2 strokes fly nearly everyday, so ring sticking is not much of a problem. Dave Rains El Paso -----Original Message----- From: Possum [SMTP:possums(at)mindspring.com] Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ditching > >THIS IS SPAM GET ME OFF THIS. NOW Open the pod bay doors, please, HAL... Open the pod bay door, please, Hal... Hal, do you read me? Affirmative, Dave. I read you. Then open the pod bay doors, HAL. I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that. I know that you and Frank were planning to disconnect me. Hey - just to change the subject. How many of you guy "really" de-carb your engines every 50 hours like it say in the manuel?? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: De-Carb?
Possum, My 447 siezed in a hard climb from take off at 57 and a half hours. When I took the engine a part there was heavy carbon build up on the inside of the heads, on top of the pistons and under the rings. I was using 100:1 Amsoil. If I had taken the time to look in the exhaust ports at 50 hours I probably would have noticed the problem and decarbed. I switched to Penzoil for air cooled engines, and I ran it up to 80 air hours before taking the engine off. It never hurts to look and it only takes a few minutes. A few gaskets are less expensive than a piston and a set of rings. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO > >> How many of you guy "really" de-carb your engines every 50 hours >> like it say in the manuel?? Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Ditching
> >Not I, if it ain't broke.... >You will have to sort out the difference between Rotax liability >maintenance schedules and what your engine/flying type require. My Rotax 2 >strokes fly nearly everyday, so ring sticking is not much of a problem. >Dave Rains OK then I'll- "I'll be your Huckleberry/Dave" ------------------------------------------------ (Doc Holliday to Wyatt Earp in Tombstone. It was the WAY he said it. Great flick!!! : Anyway, : The phrase has ties to Arthurian lore. A Knight, coming to the service of a damsel would lower his lance and receive a huckleberry garland from the lady ( or kingdom) he would be defending. Therefore, "I am your huckleberry" may well have been spoken to the Earps and the statement's meaning may be "I am your champion". The "Random House Historical Dictionary of American Slang, H-O" by J.E. Lighter (Random House, New York, 1997) lists several meanings: 1. minuscule amount. 2. a fellow; character; boy. "one's huckleberry," the very person for the job. 3. bad treatment. "the huckleberry" is similar to "the raspberry." 4. a foolish, inept or inconsequential fellow. From meanings 1 and 4, you can see the word can have opposite meanings. Another huckleberry phrase: "above one's huckleberry" -- beyond one's abilities.) ------------------------------------------------- Anyway - I have 340 hours on my 503 CDI engine - no Decarbs - no Rebuilds- I look in the chamber every 50 hrs with a dental mirrow (no carbon) - I check the rings (with the picks) every 100 hrs. I check compression every 100 hr. I always have 120 (like new) ie. the rings ain't sruck. I am not going to f--- with a good thing. Keep you informed. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
Subject: decarbon???
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
writes: > How many of you guy "really" de-carb your engines every 50 hours > like it say in the manuel?? Possum and others, I don't decarb using synthetic Klotz. I do pull the exhaust manifold off every spring and check for carbon and stuck rings. None so far with Klotz. Clean and like new every year. That's the way I like it. By the way, I compared mine with another 447 Firestar using Pennzoil. There is no comparison. Mineral oil cannot be compared with synthetic oil, plain and simple. Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
Subject: Re: De-Carb?
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Jack, This is very puzzling about your experiences with Amzoil 100:1. With that much carbon inside the cylinders, it almost sounds like it was running very rich. Ralph writes: > > Possum, > > My 447 siezed in a hard climb from take off at 57 and a half hours. > When I > took the engine a part there was heavy carbon build up on the inside > of the > heads, on top of the pistons and under the rings. I was using > 100:1 > Amsoil. If I had taken the time to look in the exhaust ports at 50 > hours I > probably would have noticed the problem and decarbed. I switched > to > Penzoil for air cooled engines, and I ran it up to 80 air hours > before > taking the engine off. > > It never hurts to look and it only takes a few minutes. A few > gaskets are > less expensive than a piston and a set of rings. > > Jack B. Hart FF004 > Jackson, MO > > > > > >> How many of you guy "really" de-carb your engines every 50 hours > >> like it say in the manuel?? > > > Jack & Louise Hart > jbhart(at)ldd.net > > > > > messages. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: De-Carb?
>Hey Possum/Gang: >Back in the good ole days of two stroking, I decarboned my >447 with the throttle, good fuel, and good oil. Seemed like >it ran better when I ran it hard and turned higher rpm. > >john h Me too boss. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: De-Carb?
Ralph, I guess I can tell the rest of the story. When I decarbed the heads and the top of the good piston and the piston ring slots, I discovered that the carbon was rock hard. I have decarb engines before but this material was more fused that just plain carbon build up. I got to checking my oil. I had bought a case of Amsoil in late 1998. After I took the FireFly to the airport, I discovered I needed brakes to be around other ga planes. So that took some time. Then I started taxiing, and the FireFly was all over the place, but I kept at it until my legs and my mind became connected again and I could fast taxi in a gusty cross wind. After this, I took some time in a Challenger to make sure I didn't do something stupid. Then I came back got in held the stick back and flew the FireFly for the first time on 9/9/1999. The engine seized on June 25, 2001 and I am still using oil from the original case . I had noticed a little sediment in the bottom of the last quart of oil I had emptied. I started pouring one quart over into an empty bottle to see if other bottles had sediment in them too. The very next bottle had jellied lumps in it as I poured it over. I called the company, and they told me that Amsoil is hydrophilic and even though the oil is sealed in plastic bottles, moisture will migrate through the plastic bottles and cause the oil to gel. Then he asked what color the bottles were and I told him white opaque. He said they had changed bottle material to try to prevent the problem and that I should not have bought such a large quantity of oil or I should store it in a dry place. I had stored it in the hanger in the Mississippi River bottom. Amsoil may be a good oil, but this experience has soured me on the brand. The dealer for the Simonini Victor 1+ that I am installing on the FireFly recommends Amsoil, but I will not use it. Luck was with me because two days before the seizure, I flew a little cross country to Reelfoot, TN, camped over night and then back the next day. It ran like a charm the whole way and I had to make gas stops on the way to and from. I remember sitting there watching the world go by and thinking, "it just doesn't get much better than this", and two days later I put it in the bean field at the end of the runway. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO > >Jack, > >This is very puzzling about your experiences with Amzoil 100:1. With that >much carbon inside the cylinders, it almost sounds like it was running >very rich. > >Ralph > Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ALLENB007(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 2002
Subject: Does any one know this person?
Kolbers, I'm a Firefly owner and I have a friend who's looking at a plane up in virginia and it's got a rotax 503 that has appx. 50 hrs on a complete rebuild from the crank up.The individual who did this my friend thinks is Harry Abernathy from Tennessee..I understand he deals a lot in engines and other assorted engine parts.I don't know if he's an authorized rotax repair person or not. He traded a 582 for this engine.Do you know this individual and if so, does he do quality work.This guy will be flying it appx. 200 miles if he purchases it and I'd like to know more about the person who rebuilt this engine. Your response would be greatly appreciated. Allen Bellamy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
From: tony webster <caw(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Re: Does any one know this person?
you are probably talking about harry alberty from clarksville tn maybe ALLENB007(at)aol.com wrote: > > Kolbers, > > I'm a Firefly owner and I have a friend who's looking at a plane up in > virginia and it's got a rotax 503 that has appx. 50 hrs on a complete rebuil> d > from the crank up.The individual who did this my friend thinks is Harry > Abernathy from Tennessee..I understand he deals a lot in engines and other > assorted engine parts.I don't know if he's an authorized rotax repair > person or not. He traded a 582 for this engine.Do you know this individ> ual > and if so, does he do quality work.This guy will be flying it appx. 200 > miles if he purchases it and I'd like to know more about the person who > rebuilt this engine. > > Your response would be greatly appreciated. > > Allen Bellamy > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: De-Carb?
> >Ralph, > >I guess I can tell the rest of the story. When I decarbed the heads and >the top of the good piston and the piston ring slots, I discovered that the >carbon was rock hard. I have decarb engines before but this material was >more fused that just plain carbon build up. I got to checking my oil. I >had bought a case of Amsoil in late 1998 Nothing personal, and nothing personal against you, but I've/we've been flying these things since 1983 and "Amsoil" sucks, it cost us Cuyuas' in the 80's and I think it will cost you Rotax's in the 90's-2001. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: De-Carb?
> >Jack and Possum, > >Years ago Klotz did not have any rust inhibitors in their oil and >snowmobilers had rusted cylinders after a winter of storage. I still run >across a few of these guys that refuse to use Klotz because of this. >Ralph Burlingame When I get to "1400 hours without a teardown" - then you can give "me" a gold star. Just trying to be helpful. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org>
Subject: Cuyuna questions
Date: May 02, 2002
Maybe some of you can help me with some cuyuna questions. I recently purchased an Ultra Star that had been sitting up for awhile. It was obvious to me after being a PP for 35 yrs and building and flying two experimentals that this ship needed a total rebuild. The person I got it from knew nothing about it as he had bought it from someone else and had done nothing to it. I got one complete Cuyuna II-02 and most of another with it. The complete one looked like it wasn't very old and it was obvious that it had come off a quicksilver because it had a 4 belt redrive on it and the ratio was 228:1. I understand the standard redrive for an Ultra Star is 196:1. It also had an extension shaft on it with a prop hub on the end. I talked to Larry at TN props and he recommended a 50/37 prop rather than the standard 50/30 because of the slower turning redrive. I got the prop, installed, took the carb apart and cleaned it, fashioned a fuel system and it cranked and ran good. I haven't attached any gauges to it so I haven run it up to check how the prop loads the engine but it cranks on the first pull hot and when cold, a couple pulls with the choke on and then about two pulls with it off and it cranks and runs good, accelerates smoothly and idles as smooth as a two stroke will idle. Now the questions: 1. I am using pennzoil 2 cycle oil and premium gas mixed 40:1. I mixed 2 1/2 gals and added a two stroke fuel stabilizer made by briggs and stratton which is supposed to keep the mixed fuel fresh. When I run the engine I get black oil out the exhaust pipe, gets all over the prop, makes a real mess. Is this normal? At 40:1 I would think that all the oil would burn and leave the engine as blue smoke. It could be that some one put oil in the muffler to pickle it. I haven't run it much, it might go away after running the engine more. I had thought about rinsing the muffler out with a solvent. 2. I see that most of you are using 50:1 instead of 40:1 and some 100:1. My manual says 40:1. Am I doing it right? 3. The muffler must have been made to run on an engine in the upright position because mounted inverted as I use it, the outlet sticks straight up. Any idea where I might get an elbow to weld on to keep falling things from getting in it such as rain, and debris. 4. I have a tach, EGT/CHT ordered and will not run the engine up hard till I am able to know what these readings are. Is there anything else I should do to check the engine out? I am just about finished rebuilding the airframe. Stripped the steel cage down to bare metal. Repaired a few dents, primed and painted it. I put in an aluminum floor (.025) and covered the sides of the cage up to the top rails. In the rear of the fuselage area I used a piece of perforated Aluminum cut from a section of a satellite dish to help keep anything from the fuselage from getting to the prop. I am almost finish with the nose pod I'm building, then I'll be ready to cover wings and tail feathers. I've noticed a small amount of surface corrosion on the trailing edge tubes and on the spars. Not much bur you can feel it if you rub your hand over it. Should I worry about this? Enough mind picking, Thanks for your help. Dale Sellers Georgia do not achieve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2002
From: DCREECH3(at)aol.com
Subject: crash
A few days ago, someone referred on this list to a Kolb that had crashed in Indiana, I believe, but I never saw another reference to it. Does anyone know anything about it? Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jawmson@attbi" <jawmson(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Gap Seal Tape
Date: May 02, 2002
Have read several posts about 3M/Scotch #845 book binding tape used as aileron gap seals. Can anyone tell me where or what kind of store they purchase it at? John Williamson Arlington, TX Kolbra, Jabiru 2200 construction log at: http://home.attbi.com/~kolbrapilot/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Gap Seal Tape
> Have read several posts about 3M/Scotch #845 book binding tape used as > aileron gap seals. > John Williamson John W/Gang: Recommend doing the gap seals the "hard way", with finishing tape. Does a much more professional job and will stay the course of time. Book binding tape always looks unfinished except the day you stick it on. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2002
Subject: Re: Gap Seal Tape
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
I agreee with John. My painted finishing tape has been on there 15 years and doing well. Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it ---------- John Hauck writes: From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gap Seal Tape Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 15:30:26 -0500 > Have read several posts about 3M/Scotch #845 book binding tape used as > aileron gap seals. > John Williamson John W/Gang: Recommend doing the gap seals the "hard way", with finishing tape. Does a much more professional job and will stay the course of time. Book binding tape always looks unfinished except the day you stick it on. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Gap Seal Tape
A >Recommend doing the gap seals the "hard way", with finishing >tape. Does a much more professional job and will stay the >course of time. Book binding tape always looks unfinished >except the day you stick it on. > >john h I agree with John but the "hard way " has been a pretty simple operation for me. Some have spent a day putting on book binding tape but using finishing tape I can do it in an hour. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: NTSB
> Hey Warren I think you hit the wrong button on that one. Do you still have the twinstar? >On my way to a sleep apena appt this AM, I pass right by a Baskin Robins ice >cream shop. I'll think of you as I am eating a freebie. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Cuyuna questions
> >2. I see that most of you are using 50:1 instead of 40:1 and some 100:1. >My manual says 40:1. Am I doing it right? If every one else jumped of a bridge would you :) I think a lot of cuyuna engine outs were from people listening to rotax experts and using their recommendations on oil mixing. All 2 cycles are not rotax. Go by the book and be sure. Check your spark pugs after a few hours and they will tell you the real story. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge
> >> >> >> OK then I'll- "I'll be your Huckleberry/Dave" >> ------------------------------------------------ >> (Doc Holliday to Wyatt Earp in Tombstone. >And I thought all I was gonna' learn about wuz airplanes... Yeah - sorry - you know, there's alway a smart ass. Much of what I say manages to look interesting and instructive without actually being either. I am forever doing this, forgetting it (generally more or less instantly), then felling terribly guilty. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge
> >> >> >>Yeah - sorry - you know, there's alway a smart ass. >>Much of what I say manages to look interesting and instructive without >>actually being either. >>I am forever doing this, forgetting it (generally more or less instantly), >>then felling terribly guilty. > >Don't sweat it. You're "Open the pod door Hal" routine was wonderful enough >to make up for anything else you may say or do in the near future... >Richard Pike >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Well just to show you I'm not making this all up. http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part47.pdf and look under "When it's time to decarbon"/First give the engine a comnpression test. and thank "John Russell" for the "pick" test on the rings. and I change my Platium Plugs every 25 hrs. - $4.25 @ x 4 = $$ and I really think I can go on till I break a crank shaft. and I do have some thousand (I won't say how many - cause I don't know) hours since 1983, but nowhere near Mr. Hauck's hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 2002
Subject: Re: Cuyuna questions
In a message dated 5/2/02 5:41:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time, duesouth(at)iname.com writes: << >2. I see that most of you are using 50:1 instead of 40:1 and some 100:1. >My manual says 40:1. Am I doing it right? If every one else jumped of a bridge would you :) I think a lot of cuyuna engine outs were from people listening to rotax experts and using their recommendations on oil mixing. All 2 cycles are not rotax. Go by the book and be sure. Check your spark pugs after a few hours and they will tell you the real story. >> I had a Cuyuna in my pterodactyl, and over 5 years of ownership my engine "froze up on me twice....but then again I didn't have an egt, either, and didn't even know what to look for in those days. Also, I had an "illegal" resonant chamber on the exhaust which was supposed to squeeze 5 more HP out of the puppy at full throttle and guess what, both failures happened at full throttle ....and me with NO egt....umaluckypup....but by the same token both failures happened on takeoff and a pterodactyl only uses 50' for that anyway, leaving a whole bunch more for engine failures. In the 11 years of flying my 447 Kolb Firestar, I have only had one engine out (near the field) when one of my spark plug wires self screwed off, but no freeze ups. All nonevents except one of the pterodactyl freezes that ended up in an education for me at the cost of a broken gear. I didn't drop the nose ENOUGH! Aim that puppy almost straight down as quick as ya can cause you only have 50 feet and not much speed on takeoff anyway. George Randolph Firestar driver Akron, Oh ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TCowan1917(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 2002
Subject: Re: fly in
Just wanted to remind anyone in the area that cares that the Southern Flyers Ultralite Association, #409, is having its regular spring (?) fly in at Freedom Field, in Slocum, Alabama, on May 11, 2002. You can email me for further details if interested. Just a get together, low keyed, fly around type of affair. All are welcome if you can manage to land on 3000 ft grass! Ted Cowan ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: ...the rest of the story.
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: May 03, 2002
05/03/2002 07:28:30 AM >Yeah, one of our local guys seized his 503 on 100/1 amsoil and made an >emergency landing on the border highway. He is now using Penz synthetic >outboard. I wouldn't go near amsoil. >Dave Rains It is easy to blame the oil. But what have we learned from your local guy's experience? How was it jetted, what was the timing setting, how hot was he running it, how many hours were on it, how was it propped, what was the piston to cylinder wall clearance, was it decarboned on schedule? After it seized I assume it was repaired. At that time the repairman should have been able to diagnose the failure with very little doubt as to what caused the problem. Without more information, it is a bad idea to blame the oil, or the operator, or the fuel, or any one particular thing. "If we don't learn from our mistakes we are doomed to repeat them." Aviation is a good place to practice that old saying. By the way, I use Amsoil and frankly I couldn't care any less what oil you use so I have no interest in biasing your oil-buying decision. But I am always trying to learn from other people's experience. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge
> and I do have some thousand (I won't say how many - cause I don't know) > hours since 1983, but nowhere near Mr. Hauck's hrs. Possum/Gents: That's cuz I am getting to be an old fart. Ya gotta get out and fly more. Anybody can work all the time. The flyin season is amongst us. This weekend is Jones Light Flyin at Smiths Station, Alabama and next weekend the Southern Flyers have theirs at Freedom Field, Slocumb, Alabama. Will try to make them, weather permitting. Might be a good idea for folks to post their flyins on the Kolb List. I am so far back in the woods I don't get any info unless it comes through the phone lines. Take care, john h PS: When is the flyin up your way, Possum? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: ...the rest of the story.
Jim, In my case if I had checked for carbon at 50 hours, I would have caught the problem. Also, if Amsoil had said to store the oil in a dry place, I may not have stored it in the hangar, and I would have put it in the deep freeze. When one thinks of oil, one does not assume it is going to attract water and degrade because of it. Also, I was running just one EGT, and you can guess which cylinder and piston overheated. The seizure was caused by carbon or carbon like deposits under the rings. I had been climbing for about two minutes at 6000 rpm. The heat buildup caused the rings to want to expand but the carbon would not let them push back into the slots because of the build up, causing the rings to press harder against the cylinder wall and generate even more heat causing the lubrication to break down. The piston scuffed on both the intake and exhaust sides of the engine. As you say, if we live and if we are lucky we learn. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO > >It is easy to blame the oil. But what have we learned from your local >guy's experience? How was it jetted, what was the timing setting, how hot >was he running it, how many hours were on it, how was it propped, what was >the piston to cylinder wall clearance, was it decarboned on schedule? >After it seized I assume it was repaired. At that time the repairman >should have been able to diagnose the failure with very little doubt as to >what caused the problem. Without more information, it is a bad idea to >blame the oil, or the operator, or the fuel, or any one particular thing. >"If we don't learn from our mistakes we are doomed to repeat them." >Aviation is a good place to practice that old saying. > >By the way, I use Amsoil and frankly I couldn't care any less what oil you >use so I have no interest in biasing your oil-buying decision. But I am >always trying to learn from other people's experience. > >Jim > Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Gap Seal Tape
Date: May 03, 2002
Woody, Did you just polytak the fabric in place? My wings & flaps & ailerons are covered & painted. Do I need to polybrush, polyspray, & polytone the fabric for the gap seal, or did you just polytak the fabric in place & leave it alone? Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gap Seal Tape > > A > > >Recommend doing the gap seals the "hard way", with finishing > >tape. Does a much more professional job and will stay the > >course of time. Book binding tape always looks unfinished > >except the day you stick it on. > > > >john h > > > I agree with John but the "hard way " has been a pretty simple > operation for me. Some have spent a day putting on book binding tape but > using finishing tape I can do it in an hour. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge
Date: May 03, 2002
John/all flyins.com is a good source for info on flyins all over the country and you can post info you know there as well. Jim Charlotte, NC Mark III ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Keepers of Odd knowledge > > > > and I do have some thousand (I won't say how many - cause I don't know) > > hours since 1983, but nowhere near Mr. Hauck's hrs. > > Possum/Gents: > > That's cuz I am getting to be an old fart. > > Ya gotta get out and fly more. Anybody can work all the > time. > > The flyin season is amongst us. This weekend is Jones Light > Flyin at Smiths Station, Alabama and next weekend the > Southern Flyers have theirs at Freedom Field, Slocumb, > Alabama. Will try to make them, weather permitting. > > Might be a good idea for folks to post their flyins on the > Kolb List. I am so far back in the woods I don't get any > info unless it comes through the phone lines. > > Take care, > > john h > > PS: When is the flyin up your way, Possum? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge
As our chapter newsletter editor, I send the newsletter out in an e-mail version. It includes our fly-in dates, etc. Anyone who would like to be added to the mail out list just let me know and I will add you in. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) richard(at)bcchapel.org > >Might be a good idea for folks to post their flyins on the >Kolb List. I am so far back in the woods I don't get any >info unless it comes through the phone lines. > >Take care, > >john h > >PS: When is the flyin up your way, Possum? > > >--- >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Factory Email System
Hey You All: Was at the New Kolb Aircraft Website a minute ago. Noticed this bit of info on the bottom of the first page: Notice: We are now experiencing problems with our phone lines that connect us to the internet, so if you have not received a response from us via e-mail, this is the reason. Be assured that we will answer all e-mails once we rectify this problem. This will be fixed by 5/7/2002. Thanks for your patience! This may explain the reason for slow response to some of our email requests to the factory. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2002
From: Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
Subject: Re: Factory Email System
>Notice: We are now experiencing problems with our phone >lines that connect us to the internet, so if you have not >received a response from us via e-mail, this is the reason. >Be assured that we will answer all e-mails once we rectify >this problem. This will be fixed by 5/7/2002. Thanks for >your patience! Prob'ly trying to weld aluminum again... ;-) -- R ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: gap seal tape, again
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: May 03, 2002
05/03/2002 10:45:42 AM >Have read several posts about 3M/Scotch #845 book binding tape used as >aileron gap seals. >Can anyone tell me where or what kind of store they purchase it at? >John Williamson An office supply store may stock it or can order it. It comes in various widths, buy 1" and 3". Or, buy 3" of the 3M product and then add a roll of 1" of another vinyl tape of your choice for color coordination. If you do the color coordination thing, it looks real nice. Use my dowel-wrap install method described earlier, its easy. I can do the plane in an hour, including the tail. My first attempt used 2" wide tape and there was not enough area to hold it on there properly so after two years it had to be replaced. The 3" stuff still looks great after four years. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2002
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re: book binding gap seal
<<<<<< Have read several posts about 3M/Scotch #845 book binding tape used as aileron gap seals. Can anyone tell me where or what kind of store they purchase it at? John Williamson>>>>>>> i went to the library and ordered it there..... i guess it helps that my wife works there.. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com>
Subject: Re: Factory Email System
Date: May 03, 2002
Very interesting how a bit of negative feedback from some of the owners, and prostective owners, has a noticable tendancy to, seemingly, 'bottleneck' any further communications with the company that has, until now, one of the satisfying relationships with their product owners, of any company in the business. Won't be the first time a company did this, won't be the last. Just hate to see ('hear') so many negatives on the new members of TNK management. Back to Lurkin' again, George Bass USUA ID # 80399 USUA Club # 555 USUA Club # 770 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: Re: Factory Email System
Date: May 03, 2002
Actually, I spoke with someone at the factory about this, they definitely are/were having problems with their hosting provider, who may be one of those 'big webhosting businesses' with a server tucked away in somebody elses network center (like about 95% of those out there). I was informed they were trying to move their site to earthlink but where having difficulties doing so. I offered to help if needed; I'm been in the hosting business for over 5 years now (www.inr.net), but they haven't taken me up on the offer. Anyway, while their may be other gripes and grumbles about which I know little at this time, I don't think you should slam dunk them for the problems they are having with their website and email. I've just seen too many other customers in the same boat over the years and sometimes it is an absolute mess that needs to be straightened out, especially if they don't have direct control of their domain registration. Regards Noel MKIII - Nashua, NH > Won't be the first time a company did this, won't be the last. > Just hate to see ('hear') so many negatives on the new members > of TNK management. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 2002
Subject: Re: Factory Email System
In a message dated 5/3/02 1:19:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, gtb(at)georgesmail.com writes: << Very interesting how a bit of negative feedback from some of the owners, and prostective owners, has a noticable tendancy to, seemingly, 'bottleneck' any further communications with the company that has, until now, one of the satisfying relationships with their product owners, of any company in the business. >> WOW! GeoR38 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com>
Subject: Re: Factory Email System
Date: May 03, 2002
Thoroughly enjoyed your reply to my "spontaneous conclusions" stated earlier. My previous thoughts were actually based on the repeated and disappointing comments made by several members of this list on their return from S'n'F as well as the attempts by current owners to satisfy some fairly relevant needs, unsuccessfully. Or perhaps I should have said that it SEEMS that they have met with rather unfavorable results. Just voicing what I perceive to be the current flow. Hope I am VERY wrong. Again, I enjoyed your 'tag line'. George Bass USUA ID # 80399 USUA Club # 555 USUA Club # 770 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge
> > >> and I do have some thousand (I won't say how many - cause I don't know) >> hours since 1983, but nowhere near Mr. Hauck's hrs. > >Possum/Gents: > >That's cuz I am getting to be an old fart. Me too, but I'm always 10 years younger than you. I suppose there are certain things that are useless to discuss on this type of list, those might include politics, religion, two stroke oil, vortex generators, seafoam ( what ever that is), and how to properly land a Kolb, ie. wheel landing vs flaring (personally I believe flaring - put in the crudest terms - is like swatting to pee - as the Navy carrier pilots say) but to each his own. >Might be a good idea for folks to post their flyins on the >Kolb List. I am so far back in the woods I don't get any >info unless it comes through the phone lines. > >Take care, > >john h > >PS: When is the flyin up your way, Possum? GSFA AIR RALLY 2002 June 8 ; ETOWAH BEND- our latest adventure: (you might have to cut and paste this link) http://www.georgiasportflyers.com/members/pages/newsletters/May%20Newsletter .pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge
>>PS: When is the flyin up your way, Possum? > >GSFA AIR RALLY 2002 > June 8 ; ETOWAH BEND- > >our latest adventure: (you might have to cut and paste this link) > >http://www.georgiasportflyers.com/members/pages/newsletters/May%20Newsletter >.pdf xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Oh heck - just go to http://www.georgiasportflyers.com/ and click on the "May Newsletter" link if you want to read it. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net>
Subject: ...the rest of the story.
Date: May 03, 2002
Well, he was a AMSOIL distributor, but has had second thoughts. Running an engine at a ratio different from the manufacturer's recommendation, is foolish in my opinion. I hope you have many trouble free hours and never experience a catastrophic engine failure. While any engine can quit, I think the odds increase when deviating from the manufacturer's guidelines. OK, off my soapbox, Dave Rains. El Paso -----Original Message----- From: Jim Gerken [SMTP:gerken(at)us.ibm.com] Subject: Kolb-List: ...the rest of the story. >Yeah, one of our local guys seized his 503 on 100/1 amsoil and made an >emergency landing on the border highway. He is now using Penz synthetic >outboard. I wouldn't go near amsoil. >Dave Rains It is easy to blame the oil. But what have we learned from your local guy's experience? How was it jetted, what was the timing setting, how hot Snip> By the way, I use Amsoil and frankly I couldn't care any less what oil you use so I have no interest in biasing your oil-buying decision. But I am always trying to learn from other people's experience. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Gap Seal Tape
> > >Did you just polytak the fabric in place? I am unsure what we did for the stits process on the club plane. I think we used poly brush. Check the covering manual and it will tell you for sure. I am using the HI Pec system and the fabric is initially glued on with contact cement and then the paint acts as an adhesive also. >My wings & flaps & ailerons are covered & painted. Do I need to polybrush, >polyspray, & polytone the fabric for the gap seal, or did you just polytak >the fabric in place & leave it alone? Like I said check the manual and it will tell you everything you want to know about putting on the gap seals. If you do not have that info an email to Jim and Dondi will clear everything up. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 05/03/02
In a message dated 5/4/02 2:51:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > Re: no.845 book binding tape > > At Sun&Fun I asked the Kolb people about installing gap seals on the tail (elevator & rudder). They said "DON"T DO IT". He did'nt go into detail as to why, just said Homer did'nt design it for that. Not sure if what he told me was right or wrong, but I thought I would pass it along, as there is some talk going on at this time about gap seals on the list. Safe Flying Bob Griffin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 05/03/02
In a message dated 5/4/02 2:51:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > I think Kolb is working on their marketing and publicity > needs My MK3 will be on display at an airshow Memorial Day weekend. A big turnout is normal as the Blue Angels will be performing. My main objective is to talk to people and try to promote sport aviation and fun flying in the experimental catagory, and also promoting Kolb aircraft. Talked to Linda from TNK and she said she would be more than happy to supply me with flyers and literature to pass out. I guess I'm giving Kolb a "pat on the back" to go along with some of the negative comments lately. sun is up- headin for the field. Bob Griffin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2002
From: Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: sawhorses or table?
Ralph, Thanks for the tips. I'm building the table today. Taking the steel parts to get them sandblasted and painted with enamel on the interior parts and epoxy on the external/doped parts. Don't think I'm gonna' do anything to the interior aluminum. I just looked at the materials/ fastener combination lists from my aerospace days at Bell Helicopter and Bell's direction was to wet install SS fasteners into aluminum with zinc chromate- dip the rivet then place in the hole and pull it. I,m going out to the airport today or tomorrow to measure the leading edge tubes on the 5 rib. I'm sure it's .035, but will mike it to verify. ********************* Ken W. Korenek ken-foi(at)attbi.com FireStar II, Rebuilding 7 Rib Wings 4906 Oak Springs Drive Arlington, Texas 76016 817-572-6832 voice 817-572-6842 fax 817-657-6500 cell 817-483-8054 home ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: test
list dead--or am I? bn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2002
From: Andrew Gassmann <agassmann(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Prop spacer
Membes, I found out the hard way my prop was too close to the ailerons. Can anyone recommend a company to supply one, and perhaps the cost, of a 2 - 2 1/2 inch spacer? Andy Trying to ready FF 052 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ZepRep251(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 2002
Subject: Re: belts
Bob, Hooker makes a nice set of 5 pt. belts for my Firestar.They custom make them for each model. I'm very pleased with mine. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net>
Subject: Prop spacer
Date: May 04, 2002
Ivo sells a spacer. I use one on both my planes. Dave Rains. -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Gassmann [SMTP:agassmann(at)earthlink.net] Subject: Kolb-List: Prop spacer Membes, I found out the hard way my prop was too close to the ailerons. Can anyone recommend a company to supply one, and perhaps the cost, of a 2 - 2 1/2 inch spacer? Andy Trying to ready FF 052 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2002
From: <wecounselman3(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: WOODLAND-WATTS FLY-IN (SACRAMENTO)
Kolbers: I attended the Woodland-Watts fly-in today (designated O41, located 38 deg 40.43'N, 121 deg 52.32'W). Very small, friendly fly-in, $0 entry fee. (Hint to fly-in organizers; put a map on your web site showing airport location- locals are unaware of small airport locations. This is a Bad Thing for those of us who are Directionally Disabled). There were lots of cubs, champs, pipers, cessnas, ercoupes, mooneys and other interesting and/or boring spam-cans. Lots of T-6s, T-28s, PT type trainers and stearmans. A beech D18 flew in. Saw an Interstate Cadet, Sitts Playmate, a Fokker D-9 (looked about 75% scale; modified from a Pober Pixie design) As usual, there were lots of RVs; a few kitfoxes, a thorp T-18, a rans Coyote, a flightstar, a challanger or two, and one (1) Kolb, which belongs to Gary. Gary flies out of Freedom Field, Gary Mello's sport flying field located north of Sacramento. I took a picture of Gary's Kolb last time I was out there. It has a Rotax 377, which I have never seen before. He bought the plane off Ebay for ~$6500. What a deal. I left before the model plane demonstration and the powered parachute flight. I did see a nice Stearman flyover with smoke. A good time was had by all. The show continues on Sunday so if you live in the Central Valley go see it. FryBoy Bill ===== http://health.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 05/04/02
In a message dated 5/5/02 2:51:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > Expect to find kids climbing on your airplane, pulling on > > things, sitting on the tail, turning the prop, etc Thanks for the tips on having my plane on display at the upcoming airshow. The show is providing stansions and rope to put around the aircraft, but I'm sure if I'm not there every minute watching, there is always 1 or 2 that would probably scoot under the ropes to have a closer look. I'll keep a watch out and report back as to how I made out. Fly safe Bob Griffin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Sun 'n Fun
Date: May 05, 2002
May 2002 Experimenter magazine just out with the Sun 'n Fun award winners. Lightplane: Lightplane grand champion-Kolb N141DW, Dave Willingham, Melbourne FL Ultralight: Ultralight grand champion-Kolb Mark III, Dwayne Woods, Taylorsville GA Best of type, trainer-Kolb Kolbra, Ray Brown and Randy Tabor, London KY Best of type, construction kit: Kolb Firestar, Paul Servaty Clements, Maryland 15 total awards-Kolb had 4. Second place were 11 manufactures with 1 each. Anyone know the Kolb model of the Grand Champion plane of Dave Willingham? No pictures or further information was given about the winners in this issue. Clay Stuart ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 2002
Subject: Re: sawhorses or table?
I would build sawhorses, I found it great to be able to work underneath as I built the wings, If it were a table you could not access the underside of the ribe etc. Also, I built mine tall so I did not have to bend over as I worked, being high I was able to get under them as well. I made mine real stought and used anchors to bolt them to the floor. Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 2002
Subject: Kit wanted
I am ready to built another Kolb, prefer a Slingshot or Mark3. I like to build as much as fly so I want a project. I would love to find a project that someone has started and decided not to finish, does anybody know of one available. Keep me in mind if anybody comes across one. Great flying yesterday, the thermals were excellent, amazing at how nice the Firestar2 does in thermalling. Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2002
From: John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: sawhorses or table?
I'm building the table today. Ken and Group, I wish that I had put pictures of me building my Firestar II wings on my website. A picture would explain the advantage of sawhorses better than I can. The main reason that they are better than a table is that you can stand between the ribs and under the wing to drill and pull rivets. I built my sawhorses taller than normal so that I would not have to been over too much. The sawhorses were also used for covering. I built a large table, too, but all it got used for was building the tail and holding tools and stuff. John Jung Back in Upper Michigan after spending the winter in Arizona Firestar II N6163J http://jrjung.0catch.com/ http://health.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2002
From: John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Almost engine out
Group, For the person that almost had the engine out: If you have a magnito ignition Rotax, you should also check the plug gap. It should be .015". If it is .020 or more, it could have caused your problem. I know it sounds strange, but it can and has happened. John Jung http://health.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Prop spacer
If your running an IVO prop - IVO van supply them. Shows how just a little more detail included in the question can make a quick and proper reply easier. Ours was included with the prop in the kit. The old Kolb company shorted us this item on our FireFly, had to go back and ask for it. Reason I knew it was supposed to be there is Dennis and I had a discussion about it at Oshkosh where I ordered my kit. (The reason I was given for using the spacer is to the move the prop back is to get cleaner air over the wing and it makes less noise.) If you got the wood prop, not sure if it comes with that configuration. If you have ordered a IVO afterwards, it may not be included and may be an additional cost item. jerryb > >Membes, > >I found out the hard way my prop was too close to the ailerons. > >Can anyone recommend a company to supply one, and perhaps the cost, of a 2 >- 2 1/2 inch spacer? > >Andy > >Trying to ready FF 052 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Elevator & Rudder Gap Seals
John Hauck, Got any comments on this, you seem to be the list expert on the Kolbs. It may vary on which model is involved. I know we have them on our FireFly's elevator and horizontal. stabilizer. None on the rudder and vertical stab though. jerryb > >In a message dated 5/4/02 2:51:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time, >kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > > > > Re: no.845 book binding tape > > > > > >At Sun&Fun I asked the Kolb people about installing gap seals on the tail >(elevator & rudder). They said "DON"T DO IT". He did'nt go into detail as >to why, just said Homer did'nt design it for that. Not sure if what he told >me was right or wrong, but I thought I would pass it along, as there is some >talk going on at this time about gap seals on the list. > > Safe Flying > Bob Griffin > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: sawhorses or table?
Ken, The best way to build wings is to build them on a two vertical studs rising from the floor to over head struss members. Place a couple of short two by fours horizontal to hold the main spar. Use a water level made out of tygon tubing filled with colored water and wood shims to level the main spar. Slip on all the ribs onto the main spar and slip the inboard steel rib into place. Drop a plumb bob line to show you the bottom surface of the steel rib and do the same on the other end for the last full rib on the main spar. Next drop another plumb bob line to make sure that your steel rib is square to the main spare. Next slip the trailing tube into place. The water level, and the three plumb bobs will ensure that your wing is flat and square within one eight of an inch. The advantage of this technic is that you can stand or sit and drill and pop rivet from each side of the wing. After you have stabilized the wing with enough pop rivets you can take it off the supports and turn it over and pop rivet some more. As you go you can always check to see that the wing is flat. This method is very easy on your back. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2002
From: Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: sawhorses or..
good evening all, I did my wing (only one?) on saw horses but left out the rib flange/spar rivets. Then I threw it in a pickup and took it over to the local cabinet shop where they have the world's flattest saw table. Then I just pulled a couple rivets in each rib and took it home to finish it off. --Nice and straight - no twist. -BB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robjin77(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 2002
Subject: Re: Plug wires
I live in Lakeland was out to the Sun and Fun fly in. Became interested in the Kolb.I know very little about them but liked the way they fold up. Would like to buy a late model Firestar II. If you know of any for sale please give them my phone number or E mail address. R.C. Younkin 863 984 3195, RobJin77(at)aol.com. Thankyou ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kit wanted
Date: May 05, 2002
Harrrrr................how much money ya got ?? Lar. Do not Archive. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Kit wanted > > I am ready to built another Kolb, prefer a Slingshot or Mark3. I like to > build as much as fly so I want a project. I would love to find a project that > someone has started and decided not to finish, does anybody know of one > available. Keep me in mind if anybody comes across one. > > Great flying yesterday, the thermals were excellent, amazing at how nice the > Firestar2 does in thermalling. > > Tim > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: Sun 'n Fun
Date: May 06, 2002
> > Ultralight: > > Ultralight grand champion-Kolb Mark III, Dwayne Woods, Taylorsville GA OK .. So how does one build a legal ultralight out of MK III ? No being a smart-ass here, honestly, I just didn't think it was possible. Regards Noel MKIII - Nashua, NH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: Vertical Wing Jig
Date: May 06, 2002
Before I started the MKIII I had a 'fling' with an RV6 kit, but decided to forgo same due to the time and astronomical increses in pricing on Lycoming engines. The gentleman that described the vertical posts to be used as a jig/fixture is exactly how it is done on the RV aircraft kits. It works very well so long as your 'jig' is made of good dry fir or similar. What you don't want it to do is, as it dries, twist on you while your wing is in the jig. Maintiaining level (vertical and horizontal) is not much of an issue as you can check it occassionally and adjust accordingly with shims if necessary. I lucked out and found a stash of old fir 4X4X12's in a small local lumber yard that was slowly dying due to all the megastores that moved into the area. I bought all they had as they where dry as a bone, straight as an arrow and absolutely clear wood. My wife still gives me the evil eye every time she walks past my coveted pile in the garage. Others have used smaller steel or aluminum box beams and/or I-Beams picked up at the local metal distrubutors. But frankly, that's a bit of overkill. Not only does such a jig work well for fabrication purposes but, I would assume,for covering etc. as well since you get to work on both sides without a having to flip the wing on the bench or sawhorse. Regards Noel MKIII - Nashua, NH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dixieshack(at)webtv.net (Mike and Dixie Shackelford)
Date: May 06, 2002
Subject: Re: "How much money ya got...."
Whatsa matta U? Get that thing finished!! Park that V-dub and finish pore ol' Vamoose afore she needs recovered! Whaddya gonna tell people at Sun-N-Fun next year? Dodge diesels, VW dune buggies.....man, where's yer loyalty? KOLBS forever!! Sorry I missed ya Lar. buddy Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2002
From: gtb(at)georgesmail.com
From: "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Factory Email System Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:29:55 -0700 Mr. Cooley (and the Entire Kolb List); I am grateful for your comments and very much relieved that the atmosphere is becoming far more "pro" TNK and Company than it had been before my earlier statements. I had always hoped it would be this way, as this is the plane that I hope to own. I'm a bit saddened that someone (me) had to make a few negative reflections of coments made by some others, in order that we could 'hear' the more common and supportive types of relationships that MOST Kolbers have with their parent company. Again, I thank those of you who have revitalized my own trust, faith and encouragement to continue (or begin) working with The New Kolb Kompany. Please don't hesitate to add more of the positive comments whenever they occur, it aonly supports the original belief that this is the best company in the ultralight business (personal thoughts, of course). George Bass USUA ID # 80399 USUA Club # 555 USUA Club # 770 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Elevator & Rudder Gap Seals
> John Hauck, > Got any comments on this, you seem to be the list expert on the Kolbs. > jerryb jerryb/Gang: You got the wrong guy. No expurtz at this address. I have never experiemented with gap seals on tail surfaces, only on flaps and ailerons. I have thought about it, but never got around to actually putting tape to tail.......... john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Date: May 06, 2002
Subject: Re: sawhorses or table?
> I wish that I had put pictures of me building my > Firestar II wings on my website. A picture would > explain the advantage of sawhorses better than I can. > The main reason that they are better than a table is > that you can stand between the ribs and under the wing > to drill and pull rivets. I built my sawhorses taller > than normal so that I would not have to been over too > much. The sawhorses were also used for covering. I > built a large table, too, but all it got used for was > building the tail and holding tools and stuff. Here are some pictures of me building my wings on sawhorses. http://members.aol.com/guillermou/69.jpg http://members.aol.com/guillermoU/57.jpg Regards, Will Uribe El Paso, TX FireStar II N4GU C-172 N2506U http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: Laminating Blueprints
Date: May 06, 2002
After going through two sets of blueprints at $100 a pop, due to water/soda/coffee/etc spills or someone deciding to scribble all over them I went looking for blueprint-sized sheet protectors for my latest set. Apparently no one makes them, so I dropped by my local Kinko's to see if they could copy them only to discover that they could laminated them for slightly more than the cost to copy. It cost $150.00 to do so, but with the purchase of a couple of grease pencils, I hope to never have to buy another set. Just thought I'd pass it on. Regards Noel MK III - Nashua, NH ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2002
From: Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
Subject: Re: Laminating Blueprints
There's a MUCH cheaper, easier method... Just go down to the store and buy some clear packing tape, the widest you can fine. Have someone help you hold the blueprints taut (or Scotch-tape them to a clean floor) while you apply the strips necessary to cover it. If you want a complete job, then do the back, overlapping (front and back), and then you can trim it so the edges are nice and smooth. Yes, it's the "Bubba" method, and it's not as cool, but it's about $140 cheaper and has the same result: waterproof, and you can use grease pens on it. -- Robert At 08:00 PM 5/6/2002, you wrote: >After going through two sets of blueprints at $100 a pop, due to >water/soda/coffee/etc spills or someone deciding to scribble all over >them I went looking for blueprint-sized sheet protectors for my latest >set. > >Apparently no one makes them, so I dropped by my local Kinko's to see if >they could copy them only to discover that they could laminated them for >slightly more than the cost to copy. > >It cost $150.00 to do so, but with the purchase of a couple of grease >pencils, I hope to never have to buy another set. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Kit wanted
DON'T DO IT LAR!! There will be many upset listers who have put up with your whining for years and then to have you throw in the towel just doesn't see right. Probably have to send a posse out to the desert to round you up and take embarrassing photos of you sitting in a quicksilver. > >Harrrrr................how much money ya got ?? Lar. Do >not Archive. > >Larry Bourne >Palm Springs, Ca. >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" >http://www.gogittum.com > >----- Original Message ----- >From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com> >To: >Subject: Kolb-List: Kit wanted > > > > > > I am ready to built another Kolb, prefer a Slingshot or Mark3. I like to > > build as much as fly so I want a project. I would love to find a project >that > > someone has started and decided not to finish, does anybody know of one > > available. Keep me in mind if anybody comes across one. > > > > Great flying yesterday, the thermals were excellent, amazing at how nice >the > > Firestar2 does in thermalling. > > > > Tim > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Tables and Kolb
Date: May 07, 2002
Hrumph ! ! ! Laying there wide awake with insomnia, so figured it might as well be productive insomnia. 3:30 in the morning, out here on the "Best Coast." Tomorrow at work is gonna be fun, you bet. 2 things have stirred up a little more comment lately than I would have guessed, and I seem to be back-asswards here, but I'll put in my .02 worth anyway: 1) Table vs Saw Horses, for building wings.............several have had excellent results building their wings on saw horses, and that's great..........it's critical that the wings are absolutely true. I built my KIT on a large, solid table, and after reading and thinking, I believe I'd do the same over again. As specified on my website, my table was 4' x 16', very solid, and carefully squared and levelled. This gave me the room, and the platform to build paired ailerons, flaps, and elevators. This ensured that: a.) I wouldn't make the error of building, say, 2 left, or 2 right components, (it HAS been done) and: b.) that if I did make a small error on 1 component, at least the error would be the same on both sides, and the parts would be balanced. When time to build the wings came along, I sure wasn't going to dismantle a perfectly good, solid table, and I didn't have the space to create a separate work area. I had no problems reaching any portion of those wings by going around the table, and the idea of crawling under a 1/2 built wing, and standing back up in the middle of the wing with my arthritic knees didn't appeal. Also, it wasn't necessary. After double checking to be sure the table was still true, I started building, and when the top of the wing was locked in, flipped it over - 30 seconds moderate effort - rechecked it for square, blocked the leading and trailing edges to keep it that way, and rivetted the bottom. Worked extremely well, and I believe my wings to be true and square. The bench was also very useful for the 1001 little chores that come up on a project like this. 2.) Many of you have found your relationship with TNK to be positive and satisfying, and this too, is good..........it's as it should be. Please keep in mind tho', that it hasn't been the case all down the line, as several of us have noted regarding their attitude at Sun n Fun. Also, if memory serves, they were far less than enthusiastic regarding the fly-in last year; and only relented and showed a grudging OK, when pretty well confronted with a done deal. Possibly (??) they monitor this List, even tho' I don't believe I've ever seen a response from them, and have felt the need to modify their attitude. I doubt it, but it's possible. Note the difference..............Dennis Souder still follows the Kolb List, and makes his expertise available............long after any responsibility on his part has ended. I by no means intend to start a squabble.............but I do feel there are 2 sides to everything, and both should be presented. Amicable Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2002
From: <s6es116(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Laminating Blueprints
Actually, there an even BETTER way than the "clear tape" method. Go to your local Wally World (aka Wal*Mart) and buy a roll of clear contact paper. Also called shelving paper, its the stuff used to cover the interior of kitchen cabinets and such. Most of what you'll find is patterned in all sorts of colors and prints, but they'll have clear as well. As previously mentioned, tape your blueprints down to a large, flat surface. Start the contact paper at one end and SLOWLY peel away the backing while laying it down on the blueprint. Take your time, make sure you keep it straight, and smooth out any bubbles as you go. In the end, you'll have a very nice covering. This is how we used to laminate maps in the military in the days before the Kinkos-type laminating machine. drc From: Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Laminating Blueprints There's a MUCH cheaper, easier method... Just go down to the store and buy some clear packing tape, the widest you can fine. Have someone help you hold the blueprints taut (or Scotch-tape them to a clean floor) while you apply the strips necessary to cover it. If you want a complete job, then do the back, overlapping (front and back), and then you can trim it so the edges are nice and smooth. Yes, it's the "Bubba" method, and it's not as cool, but it's about $140 cheaper and has the same result: waterproof, and you can use grease pens on it. -- Robert At 08:00 PM 5/6/2002, you wrote: >After going through two sets of blueprints at $100 a pop, due to water/soda/coffee/etc spills or someone deciding to scribble all over them I went looking for blueprint-sized sheet protectors for my latest set. > >Apparently no one makes them, so I dropped by my local Kinko's to see if they could copy them only to discover that they could laminated them for slightly more than the cost to copy. It cost $150.00 to do so, but with the purchase of a couple of grease pencils, I hope to never have to buy another set. http://health.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com>
Subject: Re: Laminating Blueprints
Date: May 07, 2002
Yep Kmart shelving paper is the way to go!! I covered many, many maps in the Army with it! only real problem is it will absorb ink left on for a couple of weeks, so use it and clean it and it will work great. Ken James Drafting Design Instructor Berks Career and Technology Center 3307 Freidensburg Rd. Oley Pa. 19547 610-987-6201 Ext 3532 Kdjames(at)berkscareer.com In the end, you'll have a very nice covering. This is how we used to laminate maps in the military in the days before the Kinkos-type laminating machine. drc From: Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Laminating Blueprints There's a MUCH cheaper, easier method... Just go down to the store and buy some clear packing tape, the widest you can fine. Have someone help you hold the blueprints taut (or Scotch-tape them to a clean floor) while you apply the strips necessary to cover it. If you want a complete job, then do the back, overlapping (front and back), and then you can trim it so the edges are nice and smooth. Yes, it's the "Bubba" method, and it's not as cool, but it's about $140 cheaper and has the same result: waterproof, and you can use grease pens on it. -- Robert At 08:00 PM 5/6/2002, you wrote: >After going through two sets of blueprints at $100 a pop, due to water/soda/coffee/etc spills or someone deciding to scribble all over them I went looking for blueprint-sized sheet protectors for my latest set. > >Apparently no one makes them, so I dropped by my local Kinko's to see if they could copy them only to discover that they could laminated them for slightly more than the cost to copy. It cost $150.00 to do so, but with the purchase of a couple of grease pencils, I hope to never have to buy another set. http://health.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "louis friedman" <lfriedman2001(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Tables and Kolb
Date: May 07, 2002
I'm a lurker. I usually find more value in listening then talking, but it seems that another pirep is in order. 1)I spent the whole week at Sun n Fun. Camped under my old 172. Met John H., the guys at Litespeed and TNK. I was impressed enough to put my money down on a Mark III Classic. I found everyone professional, courteous, and friendly. Since then I've visited London, Ky, and found everyone at the factory delightful. In fact, I even got a phone call from one of the guys, checking to see that I got back to Atlanta okay. They spent far more time then they needed to making sure I got off to a good start. I recommend a factory tour to anyone considering building a Kolb. Seems like I've been in almost daily contact with TNK since I started building. Every phone call has been returned. Every question answered. For what it's worth, a pirep from a year ago isn't worth my $.02. I believe my pirep is worth what you paid for it. I'll be sure to let you know if my "opinion" changes. 2)I believe in following the advise of those that have the most experience. The manual, as well as those that I spoke with at Litespeed and TNK told me to use saw horses. I bought a steel pair, with adjustable legs, at my local hardware store for about $40. After leveling and securing them, I built a flat surface for the jigs for the tail assembly and placed it on the saw horses. I'll follow TNK's advise for building the wings. I started watching this thread when someone reported that they had had less then satisfactory response from TNK. Seems that the kits went out before the plans were finished. Those producing the plans are trying to make sure that the plans were worth waiting for. I guess that's the price you pay for being on the leading edge. Two side of the story? I once overheard two old guys watching a really ridiculous display of human behavior. One of them said to the other, "Takes all kinds." The other retorted, "No it doesn't, we got all kinds. There's a few we could do without." Sept 11 hit the aircraft community pretty hard. It's may take a while for things get back to normal. A little patience may be in order until that time. BTW if you're in or around the Atlanta area, I'm pretty active in our local EAA chapter (690). I'd love for you to stop by and talk about anything aviation (or anything else) related. I'm off to PDK help with B-17 tours. I've been at LZU all weekend helping out. I sat up in the left seat and pretended I knew something about that big taildragger. Pretty big thrill. Thanks to all for the really great stuff on this list. I'm visiting all the sites I can find and listening to all of the mods that have been tried. Maybe I'll get a site set up for my stuff before too long. For now I want to concentrate on building. I'll publish the documentation later. More to follow - I'm sure Lou Friedman Lilburn, GA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Tables and Kolb > > Hrumph ! ! ! Laying there wide awake with insomnia, so figured it might > as well be productive insomnia. 3:30 in the morning, out here on the > "Best Coast." Tomorrow at work is gonna be fun, you bet. 2 things have > stirred up a little more comment lately than I would have guessed, and I > seem to be back-asswards here, but I'll put in my .02 worth anyway: > 1) Table vs Saw Horses, for building wings.............several > have had excellent results building their wings on saw horses, and ....... 2.) Many of you have found your > relationship with TNK to be positive and satisfying, and this too, is > good..........it's as it should be. Please keep in mind tho', that it > > Larry Bourne > Palm Springs, Ca. > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > http://www.gogittum.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2002
From: John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tables and Kolb
Lou, I glad that you came out of "lurking". From your post, it looks like you will be a valuable asset to the list. John Jung --- louis friedman wrote: > > > I'm a lurker. I usually find more value in listening > then talking, but it > seems that > another pirep is in order. snip............ http://health.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Lakeland '02 Group Pictures
Date: May 07, 2002
I have no taken the time to figure out how to get the pics from our Lakeland/Sonny's Bar-b-que "meeting" to the list. It took about two minutes after I remembered that our Kolb List host had added this capability a few months ago, bless his high-tech heart. Duane the Plane, Tallahassee, FL, Firefly/Mk3-912 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: The space between
From: Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com
Date: May 07, 2002
05/07/2002 11:55:00 AM Listers: On my Mrk III there is a significant gap between the top of my windshield and the leading edge of my wing gap seal. Seems like I should be able to pretty this area up some and perhaps make it a smidge more aerodynamic. One way might be to replace the windshield and cut the new one so that the top fits up against the gap seal. What do others have in this area, if anything? Regards, Erich Weaver erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100 Santa Barbara, California 93117 Tel: 805-964-6010 fax: 805-964 0259 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ULDAD(at)aol.com
Date: May 07, 2002
Subject: UltraStar Parts
Hi Folks, Anyone have an UltraStar cage they want to sell? Bill Griffin Montgomery, Al ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2002
Subject: Kolb for sale
From: dcjcwcr27(at)juno.com
KOLB FIRESTAR New kolb Firestar modified to accept a 65 H.P. B>M>W> 2 cyl. opposed 4 cycle. Electric start, Engine runs great. Three blade adj . IVO prop.- oversize tires with brakes--very complete panel- -trim.-New kit for this plane would be over 9 K.! Many pictures on request. Absolutely great workmanship!!Call for complete information.970-454-1580 or 970-454-0874 or DCJCWCR27(at)JUNO.COM Denver Colo Area.Asking $ 6950 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Re: Trip To Kolb
Date: May 07, 2002
Ken Korenek asked: < I also ordered the new Kuntzleman triple strobe light. Any preference as to where to put the rear strobe? Should I put it atop the vertical stabilizer or on the bottom of the tail boom? Anybody got any opinions about this? Also, should I build the wings on sawhorses or build a table? > Ken - I installed my Kuntzleman strobe near the top of my vertical fin. I fashioned a saddle bracket from a scrap piece of aluminum tubing. Ran the strobe wire inside the fin fabric near the strobe, and it exits the at the bottom, near the tailring. Fished it thru with a piece of coat hanger wire. From there, my strobe wire enters the the rear open end of the tailboom. Very little wire is exposed to the slipstream. As for building the wings, a table is not necessary. Use good, level sawhorses. Taller is better, to make it easier for working on the underside. Most important is that the sawhorses are level with each other, so you don't build a permanent twist in the wings. Building the wings was fun - enjoy! Dennis Kirby Mark-3, Verner-powered, nearly done (been saying that for months!) Cedar Crest, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: The space between
Date: May 07, 2002
Erich, I had the same concern with my MK3. Talked with Dennis years ago, the solution was a piece of pipe insulation( the foam type like for air cond. tubing) fitted around the windscreen top, works great.. R Harris MK3 912 you wrote.. > Listers: > > On my Mrk III there is a significant gap between the top of my windshield > > > UN/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Lakeland Group Pic
Date: May 07, 2002
2nd try, sorry guys ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com>
Subject: Lakeland Group Pic on www.kolbpilot.com
Date: May 07, 2002
----- Original Message ----- From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Lakeland Group Pic > > 2nd try, sorry guys No...this time he's got it! Simply go to www.kolbpilot.com and find Duane's Sun-n-Fun dinner pictures. They're pretty good! But, we need NAMES to go with the faces.... so there is a link to email the names of the attendees... be sure to specify the position (left to right, etc) and which picture (1st, 2nd or 3rd). And please add any short stories that might go with that dinner... very sorry to have missed it myself. Thanks Jon near Green Bay FSII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com>
Subject: Have you seen an Ultrastar?
Date: May 07, 2002
BTW, Jeff Jones sent some great pics of his UltraStar... posted on www.kolbpilot.com I have never seen one before in real life... but now I know what they look like! Jon near Green Bay FSII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Date: May 08, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 05/07/02
In a message dated 5/8/02 2:51:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > On my Mrk III there is a significant gap between the top of my windshield > and the leading edge of my wing gap seal. My MK3 has a 1/2 to 3/4" gap at the top of the windshield also. I am using a piece of round foam. Home Depot sells it for 1/2" pipe insulation. It has a slit in it which will slide over the edge of the windshield. I guess this works ok if the gap is the right size. One section of mine ended up being loose, so I need to come up with a method to hold it in place better. Tie wrap or lace it with rawhide. Safe flying Bob Griffin ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: windshield/gap seal sealer
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: May 08, 2002
05/08/2002 06:58:36 AM >On my Mrk III there is a significant gap between the top of my windshield >and the leading edge of my wing gap seal. Seems like I should be able to >pretty this area up some and perhaps make it a smidge more aerodynamic. >One way might be to replace the windshield and cut the new one so that the >top fits up against the gap seal. What do others have in this area, if >anything? >Regards, >Erich Weaver Erich, I see that someone already suggested foam pipe insulation. I hadn't thought of that and it may be a great idea to fill the area and produce a smoother airflow. However, on my mkiii, I use foam garage door weatherstrip. You can buy it at the local Home Improvement store, a Stanley company product, it is sort of a flattened "L" shape. If you buy a roll for about 6 bucks, and hold it up there a few different ways, you will soon see how its natural curl will make it fit just right. I put thin lexan strips over it and rivetted thru to the bottom of the gapseal. It attaches to the gapseal and slides right back against the windshield when you put on the gapseal. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Victor 1+ Start Up
We have been having rain here for about two weeks and the forecast is for rain for the next week. Yesterday I was able to start the Victor 1+ for the first time. I tied it to the pickup, primed it with 3cc of gas, activated the choker and opened the throttle just a little. If fired up on the first rotation of the prop. I could run it only a little while before the rain came and I had to put it back in the hangar. And since the prop is not set for upper load yet, fuel flow data has no meaning. But I was impressed with how quiet it is. The muffler is much more effective than was the one on the Rotax 447. And it idles very slowly without loading up and misfiring and so there is no jamming of gears (belt drive) or cage jerking around. Throttle response is good. I did not run it over 4000 rpm, because I did not have wing trailing edge prop clearance detectors in place. At idle, one can hear a high pitched snap of vanes closing. I still have to get the aileron trim reconnected, and to make a outboard brace to support the control line manifold, and then it will be ready to fly. When I get some fuel flow data, speed data, and some engine on the plane photos, I will put them up on the web. I made some other changes, such as, a new windshield out of .030 thick lexan, lighter seat belt system, and added a nose safety light. The FireFly weighed out a pound and a half less than the original. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: more gap seal
I just got back from the weekly "build a mk3 project". We did the gap seals today according to the instruction manual. Pg 78 I believe. We cut 3 " wide strips of fabric for the gap seals ( we ran out of finishing tape) and installed them with thinned down poly tac. Total time including cutting the strips and teaching new guys how to apply the strips and heat sealing the edges - 1 1/2 hr. Is book binding tape this easy, cost effective and long lasting? A few months ago there was a lot of comments on gap seals for the elevators. I have always had these on the planes I flew and it seemed to make a difference to the guys that installed them later on. Why would Kolb say no when practical experience says yes? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net>
Subject: Re: more gap seal
Date: May 08, 2002
Woody, The need for gap seals is proportional to the size of gap. The larger the gap, the more a gap seal will help. The gap between the elevators (and rudder) on Kolbs is close, less than 1/2 inch. Not much air can get through that small gap. As I recall we had tried them and did not feel we could determine they made any difference. The ailerons are another story, significant difference here! One time a customer complained about the way his plane was handling. For some reason the discussion never went to where it should have gone. After numerous attempts to diagnose the problem on the phone, and out of frustration, the customer sent his corporate plane and pilot up to Kolbs and picked up Dan our flight instructor and few him to where the aircraft was. As soon as Dan started looking at the Mark-III he spotted the problem right away - no aileron gap seals. He put them on and it made a big difference ... customer now happy camper. This Mark-III happened to be in London KY. And now you know the rest of the story. Good day! Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> Subject: Kolb-List: more gap seal > > I just got back from the weekly "build a mk3 project". We did the > gap seals today according to the instruction manual. Pg 78 I believe. We > cut 3 " wide strips of fabric for the gap seals ( we ran out of finishing > tape) and installed them with thinned down poly tac. Total time including > cutting the strips and teaching new guys how to apply the strips and heat > sealing the edges - 1 1/2 hr. Is book binding tape this easy, cost > effective and long lasting? > A few months ago there was a lot of comments on gap seals for the > elevators. I have always had these on the planes I flew and it seemed to > make a difference to the guys that installed them later on. Why would Kolb > say no when practical experience says yes? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Date: May 09, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 05/08/02
In a message dated 5/9/02 2:51:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > Was wodering if the Kolb photoshare was working ok? When I click on, the latest one to see is dated March 15th ? Bob G ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cartejy <cartejy(at)valunet.com>
Subject: Compressed
Date: May 10, 2002
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- multipart/alternative text/html audio/x-wav application/octet-stream --- StripMime Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2002
From: Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Galvanic Protection
Kolbers, I've got a bench assembled to construct my 7 rib wings on; It's level and sturdy and waist high. Now, my question is: What have you all used for galvanic protection when putting stainless rivets into aluminum? The two metals are way apart on the scale and some kind of protection is required. My cheat sheets and advice from a Materials Engineer at a previous employer requires that I use epoxy primer. Way too much trouble!! What did ya'll do? ********************* Ken W. Korenek ken-foi(at)attbi.com FireStar II, Rebuilding 7 Rib Wings 4906 Oak Springs Drive Arlington, Texas 76016 817-572-6832 voice 817-572-6842 fax 817-657-6500 cell 817-483-8054 home ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2002
From: Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Manual / Drawing Errors
Hey, Kolbers- Has anybody built a wing lately? What are the errors in the manual and/or the plans? I've seen some typos and some omissions, but haven't identified any incorrect dimensions yet. What are some of the pitfalls I need to be aware of? Any other tips to make life easier? I start tomorrow (Saturday) morning... the ***Rookie*** who is trying to build a wing ********************* Ken W. Korenek ken-foi(at)attbi.com FireStar II, Rebuilding 7 Rib Wings 4906 Oak Springs Drive Arlington, Texas 76016 817-572-6832 voice 817-572-6842 fax 817-657-6500 cell 817-483-8054 home ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Stripes" <stripes(at)voicenet.com>
Subject: galvanic protection.....
Date: May 10, 2002
You'll do more damage sliding the ribs down the spar than a stainless rivet will ever do.... I've been flying in factory built cessnas and pipers for years, and hanging out with mechanics for longer. Never has a stainless rivet ever caused a problem that i've seen. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com>
Subject: Re: Lakeland Group Pic on www.kolbpilot.com
Date: May 10, 2002
Hmmm........ Only 2 pilots have acknowledged their presence in the photos at the Sun-n-Fun Kolb dinner (www.kolbpilot.com) Are the rest of the people at the table simply unknown, random guests that stopped by for dinner?? Maybe they ARE kolb pilots but are not members of this list? I will say that I love that Kolb shirt seen in the first picture, person on the right. Is that a custom job, or standard issue from TNK?? I'll take one.... but who is that wearing it?? I have labeled the names of the 2 pilots on the photos.... let's hear from some more......! Thanks Jon near Green Bay FSII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Date: May 11, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 05/10/02
In a message dated 5/11/02 2:51:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > Has anybody built a wing lately? > > Ken, I remember one thing I did when building my wings, that was a big help. Test fit each rib over the end of the spar. Sort them out by the most loose and tightest. The loosest ones will be slid on the furthest to the other end of the spar. I also used a lubricant of some kind. Can't remember just what ? Good luck and take your time and enjoy the building process. Fly safe Bob G ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Lakeland Group Pic on www.kolbpilot.com
Date: May 11, 2002
That person on the right with the custom shirt is Gene Ledbetter Firefly @ 85 hours Cincinnati and the shirt was made and given to me by Margaret and Duane Mitchell, aka Duane the Plane. I had the pleasure of attending S & F with Duane. Meeting all the Kolbers was a good time and it was especially good to meet the Icelander and UK folks. Gene ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: May 11, 2002
Subject: Re: Manual / Drawing Errors
In a message dated 5/10/02 9:02:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ken-foi(at)attbi.com writes: << What are the errors in the manual and/or the plans? I've seen some typos and some omissions, but haven't identified any incorrect dimensions yet. What are some of the pitfalls I need to be aware of? Any other tips to make life easier? I start tomorrow (Saturday) morning... the ***Rookie*** who is trying to build a wing >> Make sure the wing tips are lined up perfectly....it too easy to have one of them up and the other one down just a smidgeon.....and you know what that causes. George Randolph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com
Subject: Re: grounded out antennae
Date: May 11, 2002
05/11/2002 02:27:42 PM On occasion, I use an intercom with my handheld Icom A22 radio for two-place communications. Ive always used an independent battery pack for the radio - never bothered to hardwire into the electronics of the plane. Trouble is, I sometimes get unacceptable interference from the intercom when I transmit. After a bunch of experimentation, I discovered if I have new batteries in the radio, no interference. But after use for just a flight or two, I get the interference, even though the batteries have plenty of life left in them. Not quite sure what the deal is with that. A light finally went off, and I got the brilliant idea of wiring in the power source for the radio and doing away with the battery pack, 'cept for 'mergencies. However, when I started to wire in the power source and did some preliminary testing, I got a short before even hooking up the ground wire. Temporarily baffled, I started looking for the cause. Turns out the short was through my radio antennae, which was grounded to the frame through the aluminum sheet metal that forms the ground plane. No damage to my radio -got lucky there maybe. Now Ive got a chore getting the ground plane isolated from the frame. I had read on the List previously that the groundplane should be independent from the frame, but I wasnt having any problems, and didnt do anything about it. Now I have a reason - maybe someone else out there will have a reason too. Still havent figured out if all this bother will fix my original intercom interference problem. Time will tell I guess. I never seem to feel very confident doing radio and electrical work. I can always find a reason to delay electrical work - specially when the sky is blue and calm. regards, Erich weaver ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2002
From: Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Subject: Re: grounded out antennae
Erich, I just installed a antenna for my A22 Icom radio in my Firefly. After stripping the center out of the braided ground portion I twisted the braid very tight and using a clear 1/4" I. D. tube I pulled the braid through with a string and bent the braid over the outside of the tube and taped it to secure it. I then ran the ground down the center of aluminum plate and used velcro to secure it in place, isolating it from the frame ground. The center section was run over the inside of the nose cone and taped in place after using a SWR meter to set the antenna length. It seems to work very good. Use SWR meter to place the cable in the nose cone, signal will vary in placement of the antenna portion. The needle will barely move when the transanmitter is keyed. I had to look for the correct coax cable, not all grounds or braids are good, find one that has a copper looking braid, this lets you strip the center cable out very easy. Cable was run on the side opposite of the instrument cables. Jimmy Hankinson 912-863-7384 Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455 jhankin(at)planters.net Kolb Firefly/447/210hrs Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Fatal Kolb Crash In Indiana
Ralph, For the past several days, I visited my daughter and her family in Winchester, Indiana. I drove out to the airport and asked a few questions. A flight instructor said flying conditions were ideal. I asked it there were any structural failures that lead to the crash, and the answer was that there was not enough left to tell. Evidently the "two place" Kolb dove vertically into the ground. The flight instructor's analysis as to the reason for the crash was "too low and too slow." The pilot was a low timer. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO > >Does anyone know anything about this crash? >Ralph >********************************************* >THE ULTRALIGHT THAT CRASHED IN INDIANA WAS NOT A TRIKE; IT WAS A KOLB >ULTRALIGHT. I AM ONLY ABOUT 5 MIN. FROM THE AIRPORT WHERE IT HAPPENED, >AND HAVE SEEN THE PLANE UP CLOSE, AND TALKED TO THE DECEASED PILOT ON >DIFFERENT OCCASIONS. NO DETAILS ABOUT THE CAUSE OF THE ACCIDENT YET. > >An ultra-light aircraft crashed Tuesday night just short of a runway at >the Randolph County Airport, killing the pilot. Brook Fleming, 44, was >said Fleming, who was flying alone, suffered head and chest injuries. >Witnesses saw Fleming's aircraft "dip to the left, then go down," said >Ken Hendrickson, chief deputy of the Randolph County Sheriff's >Department. The aircraft was apparently about 100 feet in the air when it >began its fatal plunge, he said. Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: May 11, 2002
Subject: EIS with Altimeter
Kolbers, For all who use an EIS with altimeter option (early version), here is a procedure I use when flying cross-country. This applies to the models that do not have the altimeter setting displayed along with the field elevation. (The new versions have the altimeter setting displayed along with the elevation.) Before takeoff set the altimeter to field elevation and note the altimeter setting from AWOS or ATIS. While enroute listen to AWOS or ATIS broadcasts along the way. If the setting changes i.e. 30.08 at departure field and now it is 30.13, your altimeter reading is 50' low. To correct this go into setup and press the up button 5 times to increase the reading 50 feet. Don't worry about trying to hold a constant altitude while changing the setting as long as you press the up button 5 times you will increase the reading 50 feet regardless of how much the reading is changing while you are in setup. At the altitudes that most of us fly 1 inch of mercury is equivalent to about 1000 feet altitude. 0.1 inches of mercury is equivalent to 100 feet and 0.01 inches is equivalent to 10 feet. Since the EIS changes the elevation in increments of 10 just change the elevation one increment of ten feet (one push of the button) for each hundredth of an inch of mercury that the pressure changes. If the pressure goes up the reading needs to go up. If the pressure goes down the reading needs to go down. This is really pretty simple after you do it a few times. I realize this is unimportant for most of the flying that we do but on a cross country flight every time I talk to an ATC at a controlled field they ask for my altitude, I do not have a mode C transponder, and I want it to be close. Steven Green ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2002
From: Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
Subject: Re: Hirth F30 ES engine
My brother flies a Challenger with a Hirth 2706... this last weekend, he had an engine out... right now we don't have a firm determination, but it appears to be due to one of the cylinders overheating. He's okay, but the landing gear is toast. To Hirth's credit, they are going to provide all parts under warranty, even though the warranty period just expired a month ago. Up until this incident, he had been very happy with the Hirth. He's less happy now. -- R At 09:23 PM 5/11/2002, you wrote: > > > You got lucky on this question. Pick up this months Kit planes and there >is a very favourable article about the f 30. Some owners are getting high >hours on them. NO one has a bad word for them. I have heard many bad things >about the Hirth from Rotax guys but trying to nail down anything is hard to >do. I even got on the Challenger list to find out about the Hirth >dependability but no one there could really give me first hand accounts of >poor dependability. I fly a Hirth 2703 and a friend has a 2706 on his Mk3 >and we have had no real problems with them. I have an F 30 in the basement >that needs a gearbox and carbs and when I get my new plane flying on the >582 I will save my pennies and buy the needed parts and fly the f 30 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com>
Subject: Re: Lakeland Group Pic on www.kolbpilot.com
Date: May 11, 2002
Thanks! You might check that I got it correct. BTW, is Duane missing from the picture altogether? (the price the photographer pays for shooting the picture??) Jon Subject: Re: Re: Kolb-List: Lakeland Group Pic on www.kolbpilot.com > > That person on the right with the custom shirt is Gene Ledbetter > Firefly @ 85 hours > Cincinnati > and the shirt was made and given to me by Margaret and Duane Mitchell, aka Duane the Plane. I had the pleasure of attending S & F with Duane. > Meeting all the Kolbers was a good time and it was especially good to meet the Icelander and UK folks. > Gene > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger L" <rogerlov(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel Covering?
Date: May 12, 2002
I've been talking to several guys about their wing covering systems and got to wondering if anyone had ever covered with thin stainless steel sheet instead of the traditional polyester cloth and vinyl paint? Stainless is one of those metals that rolls out real thin while remaining tough and strong. The sheet can be bought as flat sheets or on a roll. I'm guessing that the weight and cost is roughly the same between cloth/paint and metal sheet. Both can be pulled tight over the ribs, though the methods are different. The SS sheet would hold an advantage for smooth surface because it is springy enough to bend into nice curves. And of course it is very weather resistant. There must be a reason why people don't use it. Maybe it doesn't paint well or maybe I just haven't run across the designs that do. Roger L. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rrcarl <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net>
Subject: W32.Klez.E removal tools
Date: May 12, 2002
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- multipart/alternative text/html application/octet-stream application/octet-stream --- StripMime Errors --- A message with no text/plain section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using plaintext formatting --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2002
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re:wiring of radio and intercom
<<<>>> the short------ i am not sure but here is one thing you can test for... make sure that all the equipment you are using is designed for "negitive ground." if you have some - ground and some + ground there would be a problem.... when working with independent batery sources it may not be noticable. but when working with a single source it could cause the problems you have. the problems with the interference could be caused by the signal to noise ratio.... good bateries could give you a good ratio and as the bateries go down the ratio may become bad enough to cause the problems. or the posibility may be that with low power you are transmiting spurious emitions which are radio frequencies outside the main frequencie you are using which in turn affect the intercom.... boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Covering?
Date: May 12, 2002
Roger et al, During the Cold War I worked at Cape Kennedy on the Air Forces' Titan ICBM program. Our major U.S. competitor was the Atlas missile which had a skin of very thin stainless steel. Because the structure had no framework the vehicle had to be filled with propellant or pressurized with N2 to maintain it's launch-ready shape. If the vehicle was not filled with propellants or gas it collapsed like a 90-foot toy balloon. The ones used in displays were equipped with a internal framework especially made for displays. The metal was so thin it would yield to a finger touch. ... If you use such a system to skin Kolb wings you may find that equivalent Wt/strength SS would have to be so thin that pressurization would be required. The Kolb wing framework would make a difference in the required thickness but problems with cutting, shaping and fastening this material would be daunting. To learn more about this application you may want to consult USAF archives because a lot of R&D has already been done. Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL FireFly/Mk3-912 ----- Original Message ----- From: Roger L Subject: Kolb-List: Stainless Steel Covering? I've been talking to several guys about their wing covering systems and got to wondering if anyone had ever covered with thin stainless steel sheet instead of the traditional polyester cloth and vinyl paint? Stainless is one of those metals that rolls out real thin while remaining tough and strong. The sheet can be bought as flat sheets or on a roll. I'm guessing that the weight and cost is roughly the same between cloth/paint and metal sheet. Both can be pulled tight over the ribs, though the methods are different. The SS sheet would hold an advantage for smooth surface because it is springy enough to bend into nice curves. And of course it is very weather resistant. There must be a reason why people don't use it. Maybe it doesn't paint well or maybe I just haven't run across the designs that do. Roger L. = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2002
From: Bill Shirley Mitchell <slandwcmitch(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Oregon Builders
Am looking for any Kolb 111 builders in Oregon. Am considering getting a kit but would like to see firsthand . Bill Mitchell sland wcmitch
@yahoo.com --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Boyter" <boyter@pioneer-net.com>
Subject: Re: Oregon Builders
Date: May 12, 2002
"Hi " Bill I have a kolb mark 111, And I live in Roseburg,Or. It is a 1995 model with 300 hours. Rotax 582 with 3.47 gear box and 72" warp drive prop. If you would like to see it give me a call @ 541-679-3831 or e-mail me, I would be happy to show it to you. Thanks Wayne Boyter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Shirley Mitchell" <slandwcmitch(at)yahoo.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Oregon Builders > > > Am looking for any Kolb 111 builders in Oregon. Am considering getting a kit but would like to see firsthand . > > Bill Mitchell sland wcmitch @yahoo.com > > > --------------------------------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jbowaf(at)aol.com
Date: May 13, 2002
Subject: hirth engines
seems like i recall hearing that the owner/boss of the cgs hawk company had a hirth failure en route to sun n fun. never heard any more. might be worth cking on that list ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
Subject: Ultrastar - Cayuna vibration
Date: May 13, 2002
I need advice from the Ultrastar - Cayuna drivers, past and present. on a big problem I created that originally was a minor nuisance. I originally bought an airframe that I modified to a center stick with enclosure .Bob Bean submitted a picture to the Kolb list and it is the first picture in the list. The engine ,gearbox,propellar combination was a 202 Cayuna, Nova 2.04 gearbox,and Warp drive 50 inch diameter ground adjustable prop. This combination was OK except for a slight surging sensation at rpm above 5500.I did not like the chattering from the gearbox at idle but I was more concerned with a modification that had been made to the engine mount to correct the clearance between the tail boom and prop....SOOOOO , I made a new mount to plans and purchased a new belt reduction(2.58-1) from ZDE in Indiana and a new Warp Drive propellar because of the rotation....The prop is set for 6300 RPM static full power..........Now I have a bad vibration at the same frequency(surging) that starts at 4500 RPM and I cannot live with .....I don't dare fly it anymore...My suspicions are the prop. I believe the problem is the increased pitch because of the lower RPM from the reduction drive. I suspect the angle of attack on the blades is excessive and at the higher end it gets into cavitation and blade stall. I allready sold the Nova gearbox and cannot go back to it.......I have not had a chance to run it with a much lower blade angle to see if it still surges at the higher RPM due to other more pressing matters like making a living....The weather has been less than cooperative up here in the Socialist Republic of New York ( Western NY ) for some time , anyway........Contact me off or on list if you have any experience with a similar problem......or if you have any ideas.............................HELP ! I need to get this thing back in the air for some "therapy".... Frustrated Ed In Western NY ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Ultrastar - Cayuna vibration
HELP ! I need to get this thing back > in the air for some "therapy".... > > Frustrated Ed In Western NY Morning Gang: Ed: Give Darell a call at Warp Drive. He made be able to help you or lead you in the right direction for help. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: MKIII Weight & Balance
I flew last week with 160lbs. of salt in the seat next to me. The salt was in bags stacked up the back of the seat. When I tried to rotate for takeoff it wouldn't until I gained a bunch more air speed and the stick was all the way back to the stop. After I raised the flaps things returned to normal and the climb rate was still perty good. My balance is very close to the forward CG at this weight but I was surprised. I'm very happy I didn't just put my 180lb. son in the plane and go for it. I will be adding some weight to the tail and trying this again. I need to play with the spread sheet I set up for CG testing to find out how much weight is needed. Maybe just switching to the new tail wheel will add enough weight. Has anyone else tried the salt bag test is this like a person or is the salt further aft than a human? Some of my problem is the high thrust line with the reduction drive VW. Any thoughts? Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: MKIII Weight & Balance
Hi Rick/Gang: High thrust line combined with flaps and a lot of power really puts a load on the elevators. Don't recommend taking off with flaps on the Mark III unless I am in mud, tall grass, sand, ect. Flaps degrade climb and aggrevate the tendancy for the MK III to nose down while under power, especially full power. My MK III is trimmed out perfect for weight and balance in a powerless glide. Add power and add a buncha nose up trim. It is the nature of the airplane. I noticed quite a bit of difference on take off with the new 912S when I was swinging the 72" Warp Drive 3 blade prop compared to the 912 swinging a 70". Takes a lot of elevator and absorbs a lot of lift until the aircraft breaks ground and flies. I have found through the last 18 years that my Ultrastar, Firestar, and Mark III, have extremely wide cg range. I guess have loaded these airplanes continuously to the extreme and not always on the cg. I, personally, have never had a cg problem with any of them. I am speaking only of my personal aircraft and not other Kolb aircraft. You all will have to be the judge about cg on your own aircraft, not me. I have never found it necessary to add weight to correct cg. If you try to add weight to counter act torque, you'll probably end of with more weight that you can fly off with. Also, you should consider what you are doing to the cg when you pull the power back. Tractor airplanes do not have this problem. It is the price we pay of our unusually good visibility. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: MKIII Weight & Balance
> If you try to add weight to counter act torque, you'll > probably end of with more weight that you can fly off with. Gang: Gotta start proofing before I hit the "send" button. The above should have read: If you try to add weight to counter act "high thrust line", you'll probably end up with more weight than you can fly off with. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: hirth engines
> >seems like i recall hearing that the owner/boss of the cgs hawk company had >a hirth failure en route to sun n fun. never heard any more. might be worth >cking on that list If you have ever heard of a Rotax quitting it might be wise to check on that too. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: hirth engines
> If you have ever heard of a Rotax quitting it might be wise to check on > that too. Woody/Gang: You are absolutely right. They all quit, whether the tag says Lycoming, Continental, Wright Whirlwind, Jacobs, Rolls Royce, Allison, VW, Rotax, Cuyuna, Hirth, Briggs and Stratton. Some engines have better reputations than others. The ones with real good reputations are the ones that can really get one in trouble. If you have any doubt about the certified engines giving up the ghost, check out the FAA preliminary accident summaries. Seems to me the biggest problem with GA and experiemental aircraft is landing gear and engines. Here's the url: http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/iirform.htm They are open every day Monday through Friday, except weekends and holidays. Checking out the previous days accidents is part of my three cups of coffee and waking up routine. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cartejy <cartejy(at)valunet.com>
Subject: W32.Elkern removal tools
Date: May 13, 2002
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Date: May 13, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Sun 'N Fun Plans Changed
Charlie's fuel depot was empty yesterday, so I had to borrow 2 1/2 gallons from your hanger. Left a couple of dollars. Tell Charlie I'll have to complain to the management. - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: May 13, 2002
Subject: Re: MKIII Weight & Balance
In a message dated 5/13/02 11:20:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, neilsenr(at)michigan.gov writes: > Has anyone else tried the salt bag test is this like a person or is the > salt further aft than a human? Some of my problem is the high thrust line > with the reduction drive VW. Any thoughts? > > Rick Neilsen > Redrive VW powered MKIII > > Rick, I did the same thing using cattle feed before I took a real person up with me. I worked my way up to 200 pounds in 50 pound increments. I do not use flaps on takeoff though, only for landing and if I have a passenger that is close to 240 I just use half flaps to retain some elevator authority. Steven ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Database now current
Date: May 13, 2002
The builder pilot database is up and running with some new entries including one from England. If you were putting off sending me any changes, bring em on. Am I jinxing myself or what? Sincereley, Kip Laurie Firestar II http://www.springeraviation.net/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2002
From: Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Sun 'N Fun Plans Changed
> > >Charlie's fuel depot was empty yesterday, so I had to borrow >2 1/2 gallons from your hanger. Left a couple of dollars. >Tell Charlie I'll have to complain to the management. > Sorry wrong address ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: MKIII Weight & Balance
Don't use the flaps. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >I flew last week with 160lbs. of salt in the seat next to me. The salt was >in bags stacked up the back of the seat. When I tried to rotate for >takeoff it wouldn't until I gained a bunch more air speed and the stick >was all the way back to the stop. After I raised the flaps things returned >to normal and the climb rate was still perty good. My balance is very >close to the forward CG at this weight but I was surprised. I'm very happy >I didn't just put my 180lb. son in the plane and go for it. I will be >adding some weight to the tail and trying this again. I need to play with >the spread sheet I set up for CG testing to find out how much weight is >needed. Maybe just switching to the new tail wheel will add enough weight. >Has anyone else tried the salt bag test is this like a person or is the >salt further aft than a human? Some of my problem is the high thrust line >with the reduction drive VW. Any thoughts? > >Rick Neilsen >Redrive VW powered MKIII > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rrcarl <rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
Subject: Meeting notice
Date: May 13, 2002
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From: Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Date: May 14, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 05/13/02
In a message dated 5/14/02 2:51:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > MKIII Weight & Balance > > Hi Rick, Had a similar flight with my MK3. A bit over 600 lbs., I had flown in the past with 180 lbs of sand ok. This day was warm, 20 + gal. gas and a passenger, that I didn't realise was 220 lbs. A little over 1100 lbs. Climb rate (no flaps) 100 fpm +-. Flew the pattern with the stick pulled back pretty far, throttled back to just below 6000 rpm and was loosing alt. As we landed, I held 55 _ 60 mph, tried to level off and the stick was all the way back, and instead of leveling off, it just mushed to the ground and was all done flying. I don't think my situation was a cg. problem. More of an over gross problem. I now limit passengers to 180 lbs and only take up 8 or 10 gal. of gas. This seems to work ok. fly safe Bob Griffin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vincehallam(at)aol.com
Date: May 14, 2002
Subject: Re: galvanic protection.....
i dont know muchg about kolbs yet i just want one so i read these notes ..BUT i do know about hang gliders having been responsible for maintanance, and construction of clubman hgs. we hung test samples in coastal air at brighton uk using high grade alk alloys [HT30 tubing .in some 5-6 years there was no noticeable degradation.BUTwhen stuff was packed away wet inter face corrosion occurred.ALSO i kept one piece of hg wing tube from a 10 year old hg which had S>S.rivets and S>S selftap screws that wer very loose in their holes due to corrosion of the aluminium. there was never a problem with hard steel selftaps security although of course they themselves would eventually rust enough to need replacement aqfter a year or three We did not use S,S rivets .by the way ,weused 2.5 mm galvanised wires with or without hard plastic coating for structures in preference to stainless whiich can crystalise or embrittle without much visual indication.whereas the galvanise gives warning by rusty marks where bending and stretch or flex has damaged the galv protection.............vince hallam.... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: MKIII Weight & Balance
As usual you guys answer questions I hadn't considering asking. Thanks. I use one notch of flaps on takeoff as I have a bump in the middle of my strip I like to clear and one notch of flap does get me off the ground quicker, then I raise the flaps for climb. Actually I would rather find out I'm trying to take off with the CG too far forward while on the ground trying to rotate with flaps than 50+ ft in the air without. The post from the person who took off with a over weight passenger is a good reminder for everyone. I need to get back to my weight & balance calculations and also replace the tail wheel. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII >>> richard(at)bcchapel.org 05/13/02 11:24PM >>> Don't use the flaps. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: certificated engines ...
> could someone explain to me - what is the difference between a > certificated engine and a non-certificated one? ............. no plane tim Tim/Gang: For Rotax purposes, the certified copy of the 912 is run in at the factory for 5 hours instead of 1 hour for the UL copy. Also, all parts of the certified 912 have serial numbers to track these parts, which are recorded and part of the paperwork package of the certified 912. Other than that, they are the same. Quality of parts is identical. Per Eric Tucker, Rotax. The above is European certification. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Fly-in at Quincy Florida
Date: May 14, 2002
EAA Chapter 445 will host the 29th annual Quincy fly-in on May 17th. There is always a large number and wide variety of home-builts, antiques and UL's at this event. There will also be Young Eagles, parachutes, plenty of eats etc. Runway 14/32 is just under 3,000' and their is a parallel grass strip on the NE side. Note: right hand traffic on 14 (UL). The Quincy airport is located approx 20 miles W of Tallahassee, FL. It is approx 10 miles off of Interstate 10 and just E of the city of Quincy. Come join us and look through our hangars.... Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL FireFly/Mk3-912, (850) 878-9047 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Overgross MKIII?
I'd say you were way nose heavy, and ran out of elevator to > correct it. I think you were fortunate not to have any worse problems. > Anyone else ?? Gogittum Lar. Lar/Bob G/Gents: In that situation I would keep power on and maintain a good margin of airspeed to keep air flowing over the elevator. I got into a situation similar to that at Lakeland in the old factory MK III with the 912 installed. Had never flown it with 912 and dual controls. Passenger was rather large. I never got below 75 mph, flew around the patch once and touched down at 75. Not a good feeling. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2002
From: crad238 <crad238(at)wirefire.com>
Subject: Re: Meeting notice
Why do you keep sending me this shit. rrcarl wrote: > > --- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts --- > multipart/alternative > text/html > audio/x-midi > application/octet-stream > --- StripMime Errors --- > A message with no text/plain section was received. > The entire body of the message was removed. Please > resend the email using plaintext formatting > --- > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: FireFly & Simonini Victor 1+ Engine Flys
harthelms(at)firstbankconnect.com From my flight log. May 14, 2002 - (Last previous flight was February 17, 2002) - Flight 222 (first flight with Simonini Victor 1+ engine) - 10 minutes - 79:10 tt. Ran some invalid fuel consumption tests with out the prop set so I could watch EGT's with the prop set to maximum. Top engine speed was just over 4000 rpm with a fuel rate of 2.2 gal/hr. I checked things over and found the coolant hoses had relaxed from being exposed to heat. Both connections to the engine were oozing. Tightened all hose clamps. It was surprising how much they had relaxed. Then I started to reset the prop and only ran until I could see what the top speed was. Finally got it to 5200 rpm and 2.5 gal/hr. The steel umbrella bow shutter guides did not work. The metal temperature expansion rates were too different and they were all popping loose from the bottom radiator tank. I took them all off. The EGT spiked once at a little over 5000 rpm, so I raised the needle one slot. This did not really help, and it indicates that the main jet must be on the small side. The wind was picking up so I decided to fly before it got worse. The flight was a little strange, in that all the audio, visual, and engine instrument cues where different. As I teased the FireFly off into a gusting cross wind, I did not believe it was ready to fly because sound frequency from the engine was too low. The propeller rotates in the opposite direction, and so my feet did the wrong thing on the rudder. But the cross wind caught my attention and I got it straightened out and started to climb. It was difficult to push in the throttle because I did not feel it was ready to fly and I didn't want to blow it over on its nose. The new windshield is taller and so the air did not hit me in the face like it did before. The .030 inch thick lexan with a supporting aluminum tube bow is going to work just fine. No indication of it warping or jumping a round in flight. Took a couple turns around the pattern at 700 agl and landed on the main runway. No trouble with the cross wind. May go back up this evening to fly again when the wind is down. I will have to reset the elevator trim, and I have got to get the aileron trim reconnected. New seat belt system is much better. With the shutter wide open the engine coolant did not exceed 140 degrees F. No problems with coolant temperature while taxiing. Prop to wing clearance indicators worked well. The tip of the prop is coming to about one and one quarter inches of the aileron tube. Engine idles right on down to 1000 rpm with out a miss. It really makes it nice for taxiing. This makes closing the throttle while landing a little more interesting. With the 447 it would miss and shake and tell you that it was still running. This engine does not miss so you can not feel any shaking so you have to look at the tach. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net>
Subject: Re: certificated engines ...
Date: May 14, 2002
I may not have the most current information, but another difference I havae heard was that every crankshaft for a certified 912 was run through QC, as compared to the non-certified cranks which were only randomly checked. This would mean that you would have a better probability of getting an out of tolerance crankshaft with the non-certified engine. Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: certificated engines ... > > > > could someone explain to me - what is the difference between a > > certificated engine and a non-certificated one? ............. no plane tim > > Tim/Gang: > > For Rotax purposes, the certified copy of the 912 is run in > at the factory for 5 hours instead of 1 hour for the UL > copy. Also, all parts of the certified 912 have serial > numbers to track these parts, which are recorded and part of > the paperwork package of the certified 912. Other than > that, they are the same. Quality of parts is identical. > Per Eric Tucker, Rotax. > > The above is European certification. > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net>
Subject: Re: hirth engines
Date: May 14, 2002
> >seems like i recall hearing that the owner/boss of the cgs hawk company had > >a hirth failure en route to sun n fun. never heard any more. might be worth > >cking on that list > If you have ever heard of a Rotax quitting it might be wise to check on > that too. > Taken in the context of Hirth's 1000 TBO claim, one should rightfully expect the Hirth to be a more dependable engine than the Rotax, so a Hirth failure should be more noteworthy than a Rotax failure, based upon their respective claims for longevity. I at one time was interested particularly in the 65 HP Hirth as it had the advantage of the simpler air cooling system. The more adventuresome Kolb builders would try the Hirths. So I listened very carefully to what they had to say. While there were several Kolbers who praised the Hirths, there were many more who had a very discouraging time with them. Four or so years ago heat management was a challenge ... getting them jetted so they ran at a healthy temperature at various throttle settings. Gearboxes were noted for failing and there were quite a few seizures. The Hirth reps did not help things and I heard about as many complaints about the reps as the about the engines themselves. The most common reason for a person being persuaded to go with Hirth was the 1000 tbo and this claim also was the most criticized claim after the engine would quit or present other problems. Challenger did promote the Hirth for a while and I spoke with Dave and others at Challenger and they told me their experience with Hirth was a disaster. So, based upon such input, Kolb stayed with Rotax. I was a times criticized for not promoting Hirth at Kolb, but to me all the evidence indicated that Hirth was not ready from prime time. Things may have changed since then, but if I was looking seriously at a Hirth I would ask for documentation on how they arrive at 1000 hrs tbo. I would explain to those who criticized Kolb for not offering Hirths that Kolb offered the kits without engines, so if a person wanted a Hirth they could go and get their own - Kolb could have sold kits only with Rotaxes. Or we could have done like Rans: the kit is offered with a Rotax, but if you don't want the Rotax the cost of the engine is deleted. But ... Rans did not delete the retail price, they only deleted the wholesale price. Which means that if a buyer did not take the Rotax from Rans, he still paid Rans the profit on that engine anyway just as if he had purchased the engine from them. Randy was smart, he had his cake and ate it too. I don't know if this is the way it is still done or not. The contrast with Rotax is instructive. When Rotax introduced the 912 they gave only a 600 tbo, then as the fleet of engines gained time, and were examined by Rotax for wear, etc. Rotax incrementally upped the TBO based upon the actual data gathered from real engines in the real world. This is a realistic and conservative approach. Hirth, on the other hand, puts the engine out and announces a 1000 tbo right from the start. I went to the airshows and saw all the 600 hr Rotax 912's and knew that there existed a very large population of these engines from which Rotax was learning. I did not see more than a handful of the 65 HP Hirths, so where did Hirth get their 1000 tbo? Engines running on a test stand? In the past it was easier for a start-up airframe manufacturer to get on board with Hirth than Rotax. Rotax required more from airframe manufacturers as far as volume purchase, training, etc. So the trend I noticed was that new airframe manufacturers would more often than not go with Hirth and promote them. Then later as they gained size and had more resources at their disposal they would then switch to Rotax. I only mention this as it created a group of Hirth proponents that otherwise would have been using Rotaxes. Good luck in your search for engines! Dennis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: hirth engines > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rv6builder <rv6builder(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Hello,kolb-list,please try again
Date: May 14, 2002
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From: jbhart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: A very funny website
Date: May 14, 2002
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From: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: metal brake
Date: May 14, 2002
I borrowed a metal brake to bend the arm rest/console for my Mark IIIXtra. I am finished bending the metal. Can I return the brake or should I keep it to bend some Lexan later? I haven't installed any "clear stuff" yet. Thanks, Clay Stuart ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net>
Subject: Re: metal brake
Date: May 15, 2002
Clay, Check out the wing center section, the lexan guides need to be shaped and bent on the brake. You could bend them now, then return the brake. I cant think of any other need for the brake. Guy Swenson MKIII Xtra ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> Subject: Kolb-List: metal brake > > I borrowed a metal brake to bend the arm rest/console for my Mark IIIXtra. > I am finished bending the metal. Can I return the brake or should I keep it > to bend some Lexan later? I haven't installed any "clear stuff" yet. > > Thanks, > Clay Stuart > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 14, 2002
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re: mk III wt and bal.
I flew last week with 160lbs. of salt in the seat next to me. The salt was in bags stacked up the back of the seat. When I tried to rotate for takeoff it wouldn't until I gained a bunch more air speed and the stick was all the way back to the stop ------------------------ in my experience the mk III with 2 people does not have enough wing incidence to develop enough lift to take off just above stall.... as you mentioned you need extra speed to develop the lift necessary..... in a way it is kind of nice, when you finaly get into the air you are not on the verge of a stall.. there is a bit of margin built in.. i find it best ( at least for me) to take off without flaps and during the takeoff roll i build up speed then let the tail come off the ground to decrease the incidence and reduce drag on the wing till i get up to good speed then slowly start applying back pressure till it flies off. if you pull hard enough on the stick to plant the tail wheel back on the ground you are only increasing drag and delaying the takeoff. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net>
Subject: Insurance Info
Date: May 15, 2002
Hello Kolb Gang, Received my SP Airworthiness Certificate on 5/3/02, gotta get the trailer done so I can get it to the airport. Finally got my Insurance quote from Avemco. They were the only company willing to Insure me and because its a Kolb I can only get Liability 100,000.00, 100,000.00, 1,000,000.00 and No Occupant coverage. All this for the bargain basement price of $1141.00 / Year. Two years ago when I started this project I checked on liability coverage and at that time it was only $390.00. When I questioned her as to why are Kolbs on the liability only list, her response was, They have had two many High dollar Kolbs end up in litigation, the light weight also factors into it. My Mark III Xtra has an empty weight of 559 lbs. They feel this is to close to an ultralight. Apparently they figure a light airframe is a weak airframe. Just goes to show you how little they know about a Kolb. Just a word to the wise, those of you who already have insurance on your Kolbs, don't let it lapse or cancel it until you find out the availability of getting it back. Guy Swenson MKIII Xtra Ready to fly ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance Info
Date: May 14, 2002
I just found out today. I had let mine lapse, and today started the renewal process. It hurts. Insurance Poor Lar. Do not Archive. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> Subject: Kolb-List: Insurance Info > > Hello Kolb Gang, > > Received my SP Airworthiness Certificate on 5/3/02, gotta get the trailer > done so I can get it to the airport. Finally got my Insurance quote from > Avemco. They were the only company willing to Insure me and because its a > Kolb I can only get Liability 100,000.00, 100,000.00, 1,000,000.00 and No > Occupant coverage. All this for the bargain basement price of $1141.00 / > Year. Two years ago when I started this project I checked on liability > coverage and at that time it was only $390.00. > > When I questioned her as to why are Kolbs on the liability only list, her > response was, They have had two many High dollar Kolbs end up in litigation, > the light weight also factors into it. My Mark III Xtra has an empty weight > of 559 lbs. They feel this is to close to an ultralight. Apparently they > figure a light airframe is a weak airframe. Just goes to show you how little > they know about a Kolb. > > Just a word to the wise, those of you who already have insurance on your > Kolbs, don't let it lapse or cancel it until you find out the availability > of getting it back. > Guy Swenson > MKIII Xtra Ready to fly > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Date: May 15, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 26 Msgs - 05/14/02
In a message dated 5/15/02 2:50:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: > Overgross MKIII? > > Hi Richard, My mk3 was the first one that orig. Kolb set up with 618. 3.47-1 3 blade Warp drive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Kroll" <skroll(at)dellepro.com>
"Kolb-List Digest List"
Subject: June Fly-In at Texoma
Date: May 15, 2002
Hey gang, The Dallas/Ft Worth Area Lite Flyers is holding their annual Texoma weekend fly-in at Bowie, Texas this year. The dates for the event are June 7-9. Last year we had 130 ultralights, 30 PPCs, and a host of GA types show for the 3 day event. We are expecting more this year. We have a limited supply of RV hookups but we have tons of room for "rough" camping. Bowie has a few motels and we will have shuttle service to and from the airport operating continuously. There will be a number of food vendors on the site including at least one vendor that is equipped to supply breakfast, lunch and dinner. Bowie also has a number of restaurants including a catfish joint "to die for" :) We have a lot of events planned including sanctioned USUA competition events for fixed wing ultralights and PPCs which will be held on Saturday. This year our accommodations are much bigger so free flying will be able to take place during the competitions. For the ladies the city of Bowie is hosting a Treasure Hunt. We also have musical entertainment for Friday and Saturday nights planned and an evening barbecue on Saturday night. The city of Bowie has rolled out the red carpet to us so we expect this to be the best TUG (Texoma Ultralight Gathering) ever. The coordinates for the airport (Bowie Regional Airport) are 33degrees 37 minutes North/97degrees 47minutes West. Monitor 122.8 on the radio and set up for a standard LEFT pattern but watch closely for PPCs flying a tight pattern close in and try to keep 1000 feet separation at all times. The pattern altitude is 1000 feet for GA, 500 feet for ultralights, , and 300 feet for PPCs maintaining the 1000 foot lateral separation with PPCs on the inside and GA on the outside. For those who intend to fly in the pattern during the event, registration is required so look for the headquarters and registration area when you arrive. It will be located on the far right hangar at airport center. There is no cost to register and registration packets will be issued. Also, there is a safety briefing at 0700 each morning and flight passes will be issued then. You MUST attend the briefing and receive the pass in order to fly during the event. We had a great time last year so COME ON DOWN and join us. More information is available at: www.dfwliteflyers.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Stripes" <stripes(at)voicenet.com>
Subject: Re: hirth engines
Date: May 15, 2002
Thanks Dennis, I appreciate the input. Makes sense. Bob Preiss stripes(at)voicenet.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: hirth engines > > > >seems like i recall hearing that the owner/boss of the cgs hawk company > had > > >a hirth failure en route to sun n fun. never heard any more. might be > worth > > >cking on that list > > > If you have ever heard of a Rotax quitting it might be wise to check on > > that too. > > > > Taken in the context of Hirth's 1000 TBO claim, one should rightfully expect > the Hirth to be a more dependable engine than the Rotax, so a Hirth failure > should be more noteworthy than a Rotax failure, based upon their respective > claims for longevity. > > I at one time was interested particularly in the 65 HP Hirth as it had the > advantage of the simpler air cooling system. The more adventuresome Kolb > builders would try the Hirths. So I listened very carefully to what they > had to say. While there were several Kolbers who praised the Hirths, there > were many more who had a very discouraging time with them. Four or so years > ago heat management was a challenge ... getting them jetted so they ran at a > healthy temperature at various throttle settings. Gearboxes were noted for > failing and there were quite a few seizures. The Hirth reps did not help > things and I heard about as many complaints about the reps as the about the > engines themselves. The most common reason for a person being persuaded to > go with Hirth was the 1000 tbo and this claim also was the most criticized > claim after the engine would quit or present other problems. > > Challenger did promote the Hirth for a while and I spoke with Dave and > others at Challenger and they told me their experience with Hirth was a > disaster. > > So, based upon such input, Kolb stayed with Rotax. I was a times criticized > for not promoting Hirth at Kolb, but to me all the evidence indicated that > Hirth was not ready from prime time. Things may have changed since then, > but if I was looking seriously at a Hirth I would ask for documentation on > how they arrive at 1000 hrs tbo. I would explain to those who criticized > Kolb for not offering Hirths that Kolb offered the kits without engines, so > if a person wanted a Hirth they could go and get their own - Kolb could have > sold kits only with Rotaxes. Or we could have done like Rans: the kit is > offered with a Rotax, but if you don't want the Rotax the cost of the engine > is deleted. But ... Rans did not delete the retail price, they only > deleted the wholesale price. Which means that if a buyer did not take the > Rotax from Rans, he still paid Rans the profit on that engine anyway just as > if he had purchased the engine from them. Randy was smart, he had his cake > and ate it too. I don't know if this is the way it is still done or not. > > The contrast with Rotax is instructive. When Rotax introduced the 912 they > gave only a 600 tbo, then as the fleet of engines gained time, and were > examined by Rotax for wear, etc. Rotax incrementally upped the TBO based > upon the actual data gathered from real engines in the real world. This is > a realistic and conservative approach. Hirth, on the other hand, puts the > engine out and announces a 1000 tbo right from the start. I went to the > airshows and saw all the 600 hr Rotax 912's and knew that there existed a > very large population of these engines from which Rotax was learning. I did > not see more than a handful of the 65 HP Hirths, so where did Hirth get > their 1000 tbo? Engines running on a test stand? > > In the past it was easier for a start-up airframe manufacturer to get on > board with Hirth than Rotax. Rotax required more from airframe > manufacturers as far as volume purchase, training, etc. So the trend I > noticed was that new airframe manufacturers would more often than not go > with Hirth and promote them. Then later as they gained size and had more > resources at their disposal they would then switch to Rotax. I only mention > this as it created a group of Hirth proponents that otherwise would have > been using Rotaxes. > > Good luck in your search for engines! > > Dennis > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com> > To: > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: hirth engines > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Indiana Fatal Crash
I have been trying to find details on this crash with the NTSB and FAA. The responce that I got back is that this crash is a hoax. That is hard to believe with all the input about it on this list. Was this aircraft registered with an N number? Ron Payne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: Construction/Assembly Sequence
Date: May 15, 2002
Has anyone written or have a good construction and assembly guide for the MK III Classic, ala Heathkit style? One of the things I'm wrestling with is how and when to put all the bits together so as not to have to tear it all apart again; it's on the gear with wings and control surfaces all cleco'd together. In particular I'm considering tearing it all apart now to get the cage and tail boom powder coated; and if you have any thoughts about that I'd appreciate hearing them. Thanks Noel MK III - Nashua, NH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: Changing Tires
Date: May 15, 2002
Ok .. If this where my car or almost anything else I'd know what to do but, not wanting to screw things up and chance damaging the wheels I'll ask the experts... I have Matco wheels with the stock MK III tires and I'm trying to install a set of tundra-type tires (with tubes).. I removed the wheels, took out the bolts that hold the two halves of the Matco wheels and bearings together but I'll be danged if I can break the bead to get the tires off the rims. Suggestions please? Also, does anyone have a set of installation instructions for the Matco wheels and hydralic brakes, which I don't believe I ever got from Kolb, all I have is a little 8x11 blueprint from Matco which doesn't have any information about installation or torque values. Thanks Noel MK III - Nashua, NH ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Indiana Fatal Crash
Ron, See: http://www.thestarpress.com/tsp/news/obits/0426obits.php#c Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO > >I have been trying to find details on this crash with the NTSB and FAA. The >responce that I got back is that this crash is a hoax. That is hard to >believe with all the input about it on this list. Was this aircraft >registered with an N number? > >Ron Payne > Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Changing Tires
Date: May 15, 2002
For breaking the bead, I took a piece of 3/4" plywood, and cut a round hole in it, just a bit bigger than the rim diameter. Put a 1 x 2 spacer on each side, right to the edge of the holes, and a piece of 2 x 4 across those. Used it as a base for my jack, to lift my car with. The bead came loose effortlessly. Flip the wheel over, and do the other side, if necessary. Use a lubricant when you put it back together, and it'll hold air better, and come apart easier next time. Also, clean the center very thoroughly, and use silicone grease on the O-ring, and it will help prevent leaks. Now............let the war begin...........seems like this is like the "other" opinion thing................everyone has one. Ingenious Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> Subject: Kolb-List: Changing Tires > > Ok .. If this where my car or almost anything else I'd know what to do > but, not wanting to screw things up and chance damaging the wheels I'll > ask the experts... > > I have Matco wheels with the stock MK III tires and I'm trying to > install a set of tundra-type tires (with tubes).. I removed the wheels, > took out the bolts that hold the two halves of the Matco wheels and > bearings together but I'll be danged if I can break the bead to get the > tires off the rims. > > Suggestions please? > > Also, does anyone have a set of installation instructions for the Matco > wheels and hydralic brakes, which I don't believe I ever got from Kolb, > all I have is a little 8x11 blueprint from Matco which doesn't have any > information about installation or torque values. > > Thanks > Noel > MK III - Nashua, NH > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: May 15, 2002
Subject: Re: The space between
In a message dated 5/7/02 12:01:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com writes: > Listers: > > On my Mrk III there is a significant gap between the top of my windshield > and the leading edge of my wing gap seal. Seems like I should be able to > pretty this area up some and perhaps make it a smidge more aerodynamic. > One way might be to replace the windshield and cut the new one so that the > top fits up against the gap seal. What do others have in this area, if > anything? > > Regards, > > Erich Weaver > erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com > 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100 > Santa Barbara, California 93117 > > Erich, You might check with TNK. Danny told me about a year ago that they were making a fiberglass fairing to fit this area and seal it off. Steven ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Changing Tires
Good method. Or you could just use a big slab of 1" ply wood with the hole a bit bigger than the wheel, let the air out of the tire, lay the plywood over the wheel so that one side of the plywood is on the ground, and drive the truck across that edge of the plywood. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >For breaking the bead, I took a piece of 3/4" plywood, and cut a round hole >in it, just a bit bigger than the rim diameter. Put a 1 x 2 spacer on each >side, right to the edge of the holes, and a piece of 2 x 4 across those. >Used it as a base for my jack, to lift my car with. The bead came loose >effortlessly. Flip the wheel over, and do the other side, if necessary. >Use a lubricant when you put it back together, and it'll hold air better, >and come apart easier next time. Also, clean the center very thoroughly, >and use silicone grease on the O-ring, and it will help prevent leaks. >Now............let the war begin...........seems like this is like the >"other" opinion thing................everyone has one. Ingenious >Lar. > >Larry Bourne >Palm Springs, Ca. >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" >http://www.gogittum.com >----- Original Message ----- >From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> >To: >Subject: Kolb-List: Changing Tires --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Changing Tires
Date: May 15, 2002
You bet.............simpler is better. Why didn't I think of that ?? Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Changing Tires > > Good method. Or you could just use a big slab of 1" ply wood with the hole > a bit bigger than the wheel, let the air out of the tire, lay the plywood > over the wheel so that one side of the plywood is on the ground, and drive > the truck across that edge of the plywood. > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > > > > > > >For breaking the bead, I took a piece of 3/4" plywood, and cut a round hole > >in it, just a bit bigger than the rim diameter. Put a 1 x 2 spacer on each > >side, right to the edge of the holes, and a piece of 2 x 4 across those. > >Used it as a base for my jack, to lift my car with. The bead came loose > >effortlessly. Flip the wheel over, and do the other side, if necessary. > >Use a lubricant when you put it back together, and it'll hold air better, > >and come apart easier next time. Also, clean the center very thoroughly, > >and use silicone grease on the O-ring, and it will help prevent leaks. > >Now............let the war begin...........seems like this is like the > >"other" opinion thing................everyone has one. Ingenious > >Lar. > > > >Larry Bourne > >Palm Springs, Ca. > >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > >http://www.gogittum.com > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> > >To: > >Subject: Kolb-List: Changing Tires > > > --- > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: Changing Tires
Date: May 16, 2002
Or the even older method .. Which I finally used despite trying two triangles made of angle iron (one on each side) and big c-clamps which also didn't work ... I'll try the plywood trick on the remaining wheel. I cut the danged thing off with a razor knife and (carefully) severed the steel wires in the rim area with a dremel tool and grinding disc. After getting it off, it was apparent that at least this one tire might have been a little too small for the rim as it never did fully seat against the wheel rim. Their was a gap of at least 3/8" all the way around. It wasn't apparent when the tire was inflated. Does anyone have any suggestions for a suitable lubricant to use when mounting the new tires, I read in the archives that soapy water was not recommended. How about some silicon-base lube? Noel MK III - Nashua, NH > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > Gogittum Lar > Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 11:52 PM > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Changing Tires > > > > You bet.............simpler is better. Why didn't I think of that ?? > > Larry Bourne > Palm Springs, Ca. > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > http://www.gogittum.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> > To: > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Changing Tires > > > > > > Good method. Or you could just use a big slab of 1" ply > wood with the hole > > a bit bigger than the wheel, let the air out of the tire, > lay the plywood > > over the wheel so that one side of the plywood is on the > ground, and drive > > the truck across that edge of the plywood. > > Richard Pike > > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > > > > > > > > > > > > >For breaking the bead, I took a piece of 3/4" plywood, and > cut a round > hole > > >in it, just a bit bigger than the rim diameter. Put a 1 x > 2 spacer on > each > > >side, right to the edge of the holes, and a piece of 2 x 4 > across those. > > >Used it as a base for my jack, to lift my car with. The > bead came loose > > >effortlessly. Flip the wheel over, and do the other side, > if necessary. > > >Use a lubricant when you put it back together, and it'll > hold air better, > > >and come apart easier next time. Also, clean the center > very thoroughly, > > >and use silicone grease on the O-ring, and it will help > prevent leaks. > > >Now............let the war begin...........seems like this > is like the > > >"other" opinion thing................everyone has one. > Ingenious > > >Lar. > > > > > >Larry Bourne > > >Palm Springs, Ca. > > >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > > >http://www.gogittum.com > > >----- Original Message ----- > > >From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> > > >To: > > >Subject: Kolb-List: Changing Tires > > > > > > --- > > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > > > > > > > =========== > =========== > =========== > =========== > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Changing Tires
Date: May 15, 2002
Man, you really worked at that, didn't you ?? I'll prob'ly start another firestorm over this, but I used food grade clear silicone grease (because that's what I had) and have had no problems with leaks. Can't tell ya about bustin' the bead, cause haven't tried that yet, but when I aired them up, the beads snapped solidly home. I used them tubeless, and had to use the old trick of tying a rope around the circumference, and tightening it, to get the beads out to the rims, so that they'd hold air at 1st. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.gogittum.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Changing Tires > > Or the even older method .. Which I finally used despite trying two > triangles made of angle iron (one on each side) and big c-clamps which > also didn't work ... I'll try the plywood trick on the remaining wheel. > > I cut the danged thing off with a razor knife and (carefully) severed > the steel wires in the rim area with a dremel tool and grinding disc. > > After getting it off, it was apparent that at least this one tire might > have been a little too small for the rim as it never did fully seat > against the wheel rim. Their was a gap of at least 3/8" all the way ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com>
Subject: Re: Changing Tires
Date: May 16, 2002
Most any small lawn tractor dealer will have a "small tire" changer used for lawn tractor wheels. You can get your own from Northern Tool, may not use it much but when you need it it sure comes in handy. About 30 bucks. When you put the new tires on lubricate the bead with lanolin hand cleaner such as GoJo or Goop. Works good and makes clean up easy. Good luck, Dave, FirestarII Amphibian. ----- Original Message ----- From: N.B. DelMore <mk3(at)inr.net> Subject: Kolb-List: Changing Tires > > Ok .. If this where my car or almost anything else I'd know what to do > but, not wanting to screw things up and chance damaging the wheels I'll > ask the experts... > > I have Matco wheels with the stock MK III tires and I'm trying to > install a set of tundra-type tires (with tubes).. I removed the wheels, > took out the bolts that hold the two halves of the Matco wheels and > bearings together but I'll be danged if I can break the bead to get the > tires off the rims. > > Suggestions please? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 16, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Changing Tires
> Does anyone have any suggestions for a suitable lubricant to use when > mounting the new tires, I read in the archives that soapy water was not > recommended. How about some silicon-base lube? > > Noel Noel/Gang: Water. Ask any Vietcong what to use to lubricate tire rubber. He'll tell you water. Try cutting a rubber tire with a dry knife. Then try it with wet knife and rubber. Amazing. I would be concerned using a lube that is going to be there for the duration. Might have problems with tire bead slipping on the rim. After many years I bought aircraft tires last year. Left them on the rims for a year and had no problem breaking the beads and removing with heels and hand. I have found there are some good reasons for using aircraft tires rather than "slow speed off road" tires: 1. Inexpensive Air Tracs are trued and balanced, plus rated for 120 mph prior to leaving the factory. They don't try to shake the gear legs off before you can hit the brakes and bring them to a stop on takeoff. 2. On paved airstrips they track true, don't wander and bounce, like the off road tires, even with 6 psi and gw of nearly 1200 lbs. The off road tires have a mind of their own, especially at low pressure. Never knew when and where they were going once they touched down on pavement. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 16, 2002
From: Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Subject: Ultralight crash 5/14/2002
FAA reported a crash of an ultralight in McKinney, Texas. Date was 05/14/2002. Pilot took off from his field by house, made a left turn and shortly after the right wing separated. Plane crashed and was destroyed. Pilot was killed. Information was from FAA crash repost, listed today. No other information listed. Jimmy Hankinson 912-863-7384 Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455 jhankin(at)planters.net Kolb Firefly/447/210hrs Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 16, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Tire Air Pressure & Camber
John, I am using the wheel barrow tires on four inch wheels. I had all kinds of problems with squirrellyness and wheel bearings, but when I got the tire pressure up and the wheel camber adjusted, all those problems went away. I have 225+ flights on the original tires with almost all take off and landings on hard surfaces and long taxis to and from the runway. Most of these flights originate and terminate in cross winds. Low tire pressure in a wheel barrow tire while taxiing, taking off or landing in a cross wind greatly increases the amount of rudder required to keep the FireFly straight. This is because the wind transfers more load to the down wind wheel and dramatically increases the rolling resistance. This means one must input much more rudder to keep it straight. The slower you are moving the less effective the rudder becomes and so one has to input even more rudder. Also when landing in a cross wind with the up wind wing down while aligned with the runway it is important to not have low tire pressure. The rolling resistance on the up wind wheel will be high and as it touches the runway it will turn you into the wind. With higher tire pressure this will not be the case. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO >2. On paved airstrips they track true, don't wander and >bounce, like the off road tires, even with 6 psi and gw of >nearly 1200 lbs. The off road tires have a mind of their >own, especially at low pressure. Never knew when and where >they were going once they touched down on pavement. > >john h > Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: Changing Tires
Date: May 16, 2002
John (et al), Concerning the tires you refer to, what size are you using? The tundra tires I have are 'Dico' brand and require a tube. I really don't want to have to deal with poor qualtity materials after the fact, I'd rather dump what I have and get a quality tire now. Thanks Noel MK III - Nashua, NH > 1. Inexpensive Air Tracs are trued and balanced, plus rated > for 120 mph prior to leaving the factory. They don't try to > shake the gear legs off before you can hit the brakes and > bring them to a stop on takeoff. > > 2. On paved airstrips they track true, don't wander and > bounce, like the off road tires, even with 6 psi and gw of > nearly 1200 lbs. The off road tires have a mind of their > own, especially at low pressure. Never knew when and where > they were going once they touched down on pavement. > > john h > > > =========== > =========== > =========== > =========== > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 16, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Changing Tires
> Concerning the tires you refer to, what size are you using? > Noel Noel/Gang: Ran 6.00 X 6's last year and am running 8.00 X 6's this year. Desser Tires sells the 6.00 X 6 for aprx $35.00 and 8.00 X 6 for $75.00 each. I forgot to mention I also use tubes and eliminate slow leaks that are inherent with split rims and tubeless type tires. Any old tube will do if it come close to the size tire you are using. Make sure you get the correct bend in the valve stem. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 16, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Changing Tires
http://www.desser.com/ This is the url for Desser Tires in Memphis, TN. Order today and your tires are on the way. Minimum charge for shipping. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Re: Construction/Assembly Sequence
Date: May 16, 2002
"N.B. DelMore" wrote: < Has anyone written or have a good construction and assembly guide for the MK III Classic, ala Heathkit style? One of the things I'm wrestling with is how and when to put all the bits together so as not to have to tear it all apart again; it's on the gear with wings and control surfaces all cleco'd together. > Noel, and Kolbers in the early states of build - If you have the envious luxury of building your Kolb in a real hangar where space is not a problem, then I suppose you could build your airplane in such a sequence that would eliminate the need to disassemble the airplane at various stages along the way. Just keep building till it's done. My situation was different - I had only a one-car garage to build my Mark-3 in. Could only have one major assembly set up at a time. (i.e., one wing, or the pod, or a control surface on a worktable) I built my wings on tall sawhorses while the cage sat on the floor underneath. To make this work, I held off on permanently attaching the boom tube to the cage until the very end. After that, the plane would no longer fit in the garage, and would have to live outside on its trailer. (covered, of course) Here's the order of construction that worked ideally for me: - Build each piece (wings, stabs, fin, control surfaces, etc.) - Before covering, assemble the whole thing with clecos, including control


April 20, 2002 - May 16, 2002

Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-do