Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dq
June 19, 2002 - July 12, 2002
Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thumb" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net> |
Hey Ken
What have you been doing and how is Gene doing? I sent him an
e-mail and it came back. Did he fly that Kolb yet? Not much going on
here just been working on the plane. I got 11.1 hr. on it now and have
just about got all the bug,s worked out.
I have learned one tune since I have been home,Old Joe Clark. I am
doing it thumb style and a bluegrass version also. I am not much of a
bluegrass picker but I am learning. I am doing it in C.
You know I have not even got my Martin out of the case since I got
home from Fla. Well anyway tell Gene I said hello and ya'll take care.
Here are some pictures I made from my plane.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Gross Weight VS Va |
Kolbers,
I have been looking for detailed information on the subject and haven't found
it yet but when flying an airplane that is loaded above gross weight a very
important factor is to fly at a speed something less than maneuvering speed.
This means that the plane will stall in turbulence before the airframe is
overstressed. The airframe can be overstressed at much less than gross
weight by flying in turbulence at speeds above maneuvering speed. So if the
strength of the airframe is the concern then speed is just as important as
weight.
My 2 pennies worth.
Steven
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bob Bean ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Bean
Subject: Belly Fix
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jimmy Hankinson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jimmy Hankinson
Subject: Wheel Trolley
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jhankin@planters.net.06.19.2002/index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 06/19/02 |
Interesting flight last night. After a hot muggy day, temps cooled a bit and
took off around 7 pm. 1/2 hr. flight to the river, desended 3000 ft. to 500
ft, flew by a marina, and when I pulled up and added full throttle, it didnt
seem to be screaming like it usually does. Only developed 5900 rpm instead
of 6600. turned on back up fuel pump, no difference. Looking at every field
and landing possibility (including the NYS Thruway), I left everything as is
because I was climbing. Circled over fields and realised I could make a
nearby airport 2 miles away. Ten min. after landing I tied the tail off and
did a full run up to max. rpm. ??? Carb ice ??? Flight home was fine at
4000 ft.
My question is , what is the procedure when carb ice is suspected ? Should
I have throttled back, worked the throttle back and forth, left it wide open?
I left it wide open, and because I was climbing, I did,nt touch it, but I,m
not sure this was the best thing or not ?
Any thoughts from the list on how to handle such a situation ??
Thanks
Bob Griffin
Albany NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Picture was resent to pictures(at)matronics.com last night
Jimmy Hankinson
912-863-7384
Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
jhankin(at)planters.net
Kolb Firefly/447/200hrs/60JH
Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
---------- Airgriff2(at)aol.com writes:
My question is , what is the procedure when carb ice is suspected ? Should
I have throttled back, worked the throttle back and forth, left it wide open?
I left it wide open, and because I was climbing, I did,nt touch it, but I,m
not sure this was the best thing or not ?
Any thoughts from the list on how to handle such a situation ??
Thanks
Bob Griffin
Albany NY
Bob and others,
Carb icing in a 2-stroke engine is not like a 4-cycle. The ice will build up to
a limit and then be swept off into the cylinder. The lube in the gas prevents
it from adhering to the carb body.
The slide may help break up forming ice, so it might help to work the throttle
back and forth. I've had carb ice during the winter under humid conditions, but
it clears out in a hurry. Never stalled the engine because of it, but it might
be wise to land ASAP and let it melt.
One winter the engine would only revved to 5000 rpm and I aborted the takeoff.
Suspecting carb ice, I tried again after a few minutes and it went to full power
and had no problems the rest of the day.
Be careful not to confuse this last condition with contaminants in the carb float
bowl. I once had a blade of grass limit the rpms to 4500 on takeoff in the
summer. Removed the bowl and saw it.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: carb ice again |
Hi Gang,
My fellow airport bums tell me that there are some engines that use a temperature
probe on the carburetor to anticipate icing conditions. Has anyone tried this
on Rotax? I have never had the problem on my two cycles but the 912 may be
different. I have a spare temperature probe on my EMS and could set the alarm
to go off when the carb body T goes below a certain
level. The hardest part of this system would be testing to see what the probe puts
out at ready-to-ice temps.
John Hauck's Miss P'fer has coolant-heated coils in the carb intakes but
he did not consider them essential.
Ideas, suggestions?
Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL, FireFly/447, 120 Hrs, Mk3 Classic/912 in Wkshop
----- Original Message -----
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Subject: Kolb-List: carb ice again
---------- Airgriff2(at)aol.com writes:
My question is , what is the procedure when carb ice is suspected ? Should
I have throttled back, worked the throttle back and forth, left it wide open?
I left it wide open, and because I was climbing, I did,nt touch it, but I,m
not sure this was the best thing or not ?
Any thoughts from the list on how to handle such a situation ??
Thanks
Bob Griffin
Albany NY
Bob and others,
Carb icing in a 2-stroke engine is not like a 4-cycle. The ice will build up to
a limit and then be swept off into the cylinder. The lube in the gas prevents
it from adhering to the carb body.
The slide may help break up forming ice, so it might help to work the throttle
back and forth. I've had carb ice during the winter under humid conditions, but
it clears out in a hurry. Never stalled the engine because of it, but it might
be wise to land ASAP and let it melt.
One winter the engine would only revved to 5000 rpm and I aborted the takeoff.
Suspecting carb ice, I tried again after a few minutes and it went
to full power and had no problems the rest of the day.
Be careful not to confuse this last condition with contaminants in the carb float
bowl. I once had a blade of grass limit the rpms to 4500 on takeoff in the
summer. Removed the bowl and saw it.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
Bob and Group,
I doubt that you had carb ice. Ralph had a good suggestion about
possible contamination in the carb. I would totally disassemble and
clean the carb, and not be distracted by carb ice. I have been flying
two cycles for 15 years, many times in the worst carb ice conditions,
and have never had carb ice. You mentioned that the temps had cooled "a
bit" from a hot day. That doesn't sound to me like the worst condition.
Also, another possible problem. You didn't mention what you did with the
throttle during your 3,000 ft decent. Nor did you say what engine you
have. If you have a single ignition Rotax, and decend that far with the
throttle too low, you may not be able to keep it running. Or at best you
would have a very slow throttle response.
John Jung
Airgriff2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Interesting flight last night. After a hot muggy day, temps cooled a bit and
>took off around 7 pm.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
What engine and how many carbs?
EGT & CHT numbers?
(Or were you too busy to notice?)
Since it kept running, apparently you made the best choice.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Interesting flight last night. After a hot muggy day, temps cooled a bit and
>took off around 7 pm. 1/2 hr. flight to the river, desended 3000 ft. to 500
>ft, flew by a marina, and when I pulled up and added full throttle, it didnt
>seem to be screaming like it usually does. Only developed 5900 rpm instead
>of 6600. turned on back up fuel pump, no difference. Looking at every field
>and landing possibility (including the NYS Thruway), I left everything as is
>because I was climbing. Circled over fields and realised I could make a
>nearby airport 2 miles away. Ten min. after landing I tied the tail off and
>did a full run up to max. rpm. ??? Carb ice ??? Flight home was fine at
>4000 ft.
> My question is , what is the procedure when carb ice is suspected ? Should
>I have throttled back, worked the throttle back and forth, left it wide open?
> I left it wide open, and because I was climbing, I did,nt touch it, but I,m
>not sure this was the best thing or not ?
>Any thoughts from the list on how to handle such a situation ??
> Thanks
>Bob Griffin
>Albany NY
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sheldon Ferkey" <sferkey(at)charter.net> |
Factory SlingShot for sale. I bought this beautiful factory built plane
directly from Kolb last fall and never got to fly it. The property that
I was leasing for a runway was sold over the winter annd is no longer
available for my use. The plane has every available option to include
the Rotax 912 engine, 3 blade color-match Ivo prop, EIS with remote, VLS
ballistic chute, steamlined wingtip strobes, deluxe interior to include
embroidered leather seats and cockpit/engine cover, premium instruments,
GA quality heel brakes and much more. The exterior is a bright
red($4000.00) polyeurathane finish. Will sell for 1/2 the price of a
kit. May consider trades aviation related or not. E-mail me at
sferkey(at)chater.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Re: Unsafe Kolb |
>
>.Stand up, Mr Dick
>Head!!! Be counted !!!
Hey I resemble that remark.
Dick Wood (Woody)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 06/19/02 |
Thanks for all the feedback on my loss of rpm. To answer some of the
questions---- My power is a 618 with 121 hrs on it. Egts. were normal, 1200*
on climb out when under full power. Cruises all day at 1100*. Coolant temp
was 160* cruise and down to 140* during my 5 min. desent at 4500 rpm. After a
slow flight at 5500 rpm for 2 mis upriver, thats when I went to full power
and only got 58-5900 rpm? At that point I should have seen 6640 rpm. I did
scan panel-- water temp ok--egt ok--fuel psi ok-- rpm NOT OK---99% of my time
was looking for landing alternitives underneath me.
The puzzling part was that everything was normal for the 1/2 hr flight home?
I will consider all recomendations from you guys on the list. I,ll check
pistons, carbs, filters, boots, etc. Then I,ll go flying and enjoy myself.
Thanks again
BOB Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 06/19/02 |
In a message dated 6/20/02 2:57:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>
Can someone tell me the radio frequency to use when talking "aircraft to
aircraft". We have been flying lately as groups and don,t want to tie up busy
channels just to chat with each other.
Thanks
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 06/19/02 |
Any chance that the tach was lying?
Did it sound like 58-5900 rpm?
Just a thought.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Thanks for all the feedback on my loss of rpm. To answer some of the
>questions---- My power is a 618 with 121 hrs on it. Egts. were normal, 1200*
>on climb out when under full power. Cruises all day at 1100*. Coolant temp
>was 160* cruise and down to 140* during my 5 min. desent at 4500 rpm. After a
>slow flight at 5500 rpm for 2 mis upriver, thats when I went to full power
>and only got 58-5900 rpm? At that point I should have seen 6640 rpm. I did
>scan panel-- water temp ok--egt ok--fuel psi ok-- rpm NOT OK---99% of my time
>was looking for landing alternitives underneath me.
>The puzzling part was that everything was normal for the 1/2 hr flight home?
> I will consider all recomendations from you guys on the list. I,ll check
>pistons, carbs, filters, boots, etc. Then I,ll go flying and enjoy myself.
> Thanks again
> BOB Griffin
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 06/19/02 |
> My question is , what is the procedure when carb ice is suspected ? Should
>I have throttled back, worked the throttle back and forth, left it wide
open?
> I left it wide open, and because I was climbing, I did,nt touch it, but I,m
>not sure this was the best thing or not ?
>Any thoughts from the list on how to handle such a situation ??
> Thanks
>Bob Griffin
>Albany NY
I have had carb ice twice with a Rotax 447. The first was during slow
flight in warm moist air. The engine rpm started to droop, and I could not
get it to pick up. I jigged the throttle back and forth. When I tried to
open the throttle the rpm dropped even more and when I jigged the throttle
closed the rpm would pick up. I flew five miles back to the airport at
just above stall speed and descending at about 100 fpm. I didn't move the
throttle until I had the runway made. The ice had cleared and I was able
to make a normal approach.
The second ice experience was mid February of this year. I flew down to
Painton for the EAA meeting. The plane had been parked and I warmed up on
a wet grass field. On take off everything seemed normal and then at about
200 feet the engine rpm started to droop badly, I dropped the nose, made a
180 and landed down wind. I jigged the throttle once and then just paid
attention to getting it back over the runway. Taxiing back to the take off
point I realized it was probably carb ice that started to build up during
warm up. I had to beat sundown, and so I took off again. No problems. In
hind sight, I should have warmed up the engine and then shut it down for a
minute or two to get the ice out, restarted and then took off.
One must be careful during high humidity conditions when running the engine
at low power settings.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 06/19/02 |
You'll want to use 122.75 or 122.85. Those are designated in the AIM for
aircraft to aircraft, or to private airport. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Airgriff2(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 06/19/02
>
> In a message dated 6/20/02 2:57:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
>
> > kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> >
>
> Can someone tell me the radio frequency to use when talking "aircraft to
> aircraft". We have been flying lately as groups and don,t want to tie up
busy
> channels just to chat with each other.
> Thanks
> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Firefly Wing Strut Fairings |
Kolbers,
One of my purchases at Sun-n-Fun was wing strut fairings. I finally got them
installed this week and flew them the first time late today.
The weather has finally gotten warm here in Cincinnati and the rain has finally
stopped so it's time to fly.
I must report that the wing strut fairings seem to have made a miraculous difference
to the way the Firefly handles. It's MUCH MORE STABLE and actually begs to be
flown hands off.
I really have no way to realistically measure what difference it might make in
speed
improvement but I'm very satisfied with the flyability improvement.
I also recently installed the short windshield and still haven't decideed whether
I
like it or not although the side visibility is outstanding.
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati
Firefly - 100 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 06/19/02 |
In a message dated 6/20/02 4:53:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Airgriff2(at)aol.com writes:
> Can someone tell me the radio frequency to use when talking "aircraft to
> aircraft". We have been flying lately as groups and don,t want to tie up
> busy
> channels just to chat with each other.
> Thanks
> Bob
>
>
>
We use 122.75
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | Firefly Wing Strut Fairings |
Kolbers,
One of my purchases at Sun-n-Fun was wing strut fairings. I finally got
them
installed this week and flew them the first time late today.
The weather has finally gotten warm here in Cincinnati and the rain has
finally
stopped so it's time to fly.
I must report that the wing strut fairings seem to have made a
miraculous difference
to the way the Firefly handles. It's MUCH MORE STABLE and actually begs
to be
flown hands off.
I really have no way to realistically measure what difference it might
make in speed
improvement but I'm very satisfied with the flyability improvement.
I also recently installed the short windshield and still haven't
decideed whether I
like it or not although the side visibility is outstanding.
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati
Firefly - 100 hrs
In a former life when I built and was flying a Challenger II, I
installed the streamline strut fairings. It picked up 12 MPH. Now the
C2 has 4 lift struts instead of our Kolbs 2, so you might not see the
same performance increase...but they are money well spent. And remember
that ever pound of thrust that ISN'T overcoming drag can be put to use
overcoming gravity (i.e. increased climb performance...like our Kolbs
need more of that!!! ;-) )
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Kolbers -
What kind of fluid does one use with the MATCO hydraulic brakes?
New Kolb tells me they use MIL-H-5606 mil-spec hydraulic fluid, because
that's what Matco recommends.
But would these brakes function okay using red automatic transmission fluid
instead?
Or what about regular automotive brake fluid?
What has worked for you guys with Matco hydraulic brakes?
Functioning brakes would be a good thing to have for my initial taxi tests
this weekend!
Many thanks -
Dennis Kirby
Mk-3, Verner-powered, N93DK in NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Wing Strut Fairings |
Someone please post where the strut fairings can be purchased and the cost.
Thanks.
Jimmy Hankinson
912-863-7384
Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
jhankin(at)planters.net
Kolb Firefly/447/200hrs/60JH
Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake Fluid ? |
Kirby, automotive brake fluid will dissolve the matco o-rings.
must use petroleum fluid. Transmission fluid should be ok. -BB
Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM wrote:
>
> Kolbers -
>
> What kind of fluid does one use with the MATCO hydraulic brakes?
>
> New Kolb tells me they use MIL-H-5606 mil-spec hydraulic fluid, because
> that's what Matco recommends.
> But would these brakes function okay using red automatic transmission fluid
> instead?
> Or what about regular automotive brake fluid?
> What has worked for you guys with Matco hydraulic brakes?
>
> Functioning brakes would be a good thing to have for my initial taxi tests
> this weekend!
>
> Many thanks -
> Dennis Kirby
> Mk-3, Verner-powered, N93DK in NM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
Would the person who sent me the off line email and is picking up a
Mark III please send me another message. I deleted your first
message accidentally before I could respond.
Thanks,
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Wing Strut Fairings |
Hi Jimmy and Gang,
I just purchased some for the Mark II Twinstar that I'm rebuilding. There
made out of a pvc or vinyl material and seemed kind of fragile at first.
They do seem to be ok now that they are mounted on the round lift struts.
They are sold by "Streamline Fairings" I think and they can be contacted at
streamlineco(at)yahoo.com . Two six foot pieces cost me around 90 dollars. Hope
this helps.
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II #1162
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmy" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Firefly Wing Strut Fairings
>
> Someone please post where the strut fairings can be purchased and the
cost.
>
> Thanks.
> Jimmy Hankinson
> 912-863-7384
> Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
> jhankin(at)planters.net
> Kolb Firefly/447/200hrs/60JH
> Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
> Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com> |
I had some carb ice problem last year on a wet humid morning... I took off with
a passenger in my Buckeye Powered Parachute, got about 300 ft and it hit....
I circled back, I couldn,t hold altitude....... I was told later that I probly
could have cleared it by hitting my PRIMER
---
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
Communicate with others using Lycos Mail for FREE!
http://mail.lycos.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb Gearheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Wing Strut Fairings |
Gang
If my memory serves; The New Kolb has them also.
another option is to buy streamline aluminum tubing
from Carlson Aircraft. I think that they have it in
8 foot lengths or longer in the 40 dollar range.
Herb
http://www.sky-tek.com/struts.html
John Cooley wrote:
>
>
> Hi Jimmy and Gang,
> I just purchased some for the Mark II Twinstar that I'm rebuilding. There
> made out of a pvc or vinyl material and seemed kind of fragile at first.
> They do seem to be ok now that they are mounted on the round lift struts.
> They are sold by "Streamline Fairings" I think and they can be contacted at
> streamlineco(at)yahoo.com . Two six foot pieces cost me around 90 dollars. Hope
> this helps.
>
> Later,
> John Cooley
> Firestar II #1162
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jimmy" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Firefly Wing Strut Fairings
>
> >
> > Someone please post where the strut fairings can be purchased and the
> cost.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Jimmy Hankinson
> > 912-863-7384
> > Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
> > jhankin(at)planters.net
> > Kolb Firefly/447/200hrs/60JH
> > Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
> > Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 06/21/02 |
In a message dated 6/22/02 2:51:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> But would these brakes function okay using red automatic transmission fluid
> instead?
>
Dennis & gang, Two yrs ago I rebuilt one of my Matco brake cyl. The
instructions were not clear on what fluid to use, so I gave them a call. They
said, " If I want I can use red transmission fluid, It will work fine". So
thats what I now use.
Fly safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | I got a hole in the top surface of my flap |
I managed to rip the top surface of my flap doing something stupid. It is
about a 6 inch rip and I was wondering what my options of repairing it were.
I bought the plane used and I have no idea how to cover it. 1)Can I buy
small amounts of covering? 2)How can I tell what kind of covering it is or
what process was used.
I also took my first 200 mile trip in my Mark III. Lots of fun! It sure
gulps the gas, I might have to figure out a way to make the gap seal area
into a gas tank. Anyone accomplished that?
Thanks,
David Key
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
Due to financial constraints I will be unable to purchase a new prop. I have
seen wood props with a rubber leading edge, can I send mine off to get that
or put it in myself? Any direction appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave Key
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | How Do You Steer These Things?? |
I just started taxi testing my FireStar. I have the heal brakes that Kolb
sells as an option. I adjusted them so that they are just below the point
that they drag. It would take a Wal-Mart parking lot to turn this thing
around on the ground. No matter how hard I push on the brake peddle I
cannot lock a wheel and spin this thing around. I have read posts about
lifting the tail by using power and then use rudder to spin around. This
terrifies me as I don't want to nose the thing over. Any sugestions?=0D
=0D
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
Ron,
With the narrow track of the main wheels, it is going to be difficult to
impossible to spin your plane using individual wheel braking. Tie your
tail wheel to a tie down, chock the main wheels, start the engine, get in
and advance the throttle to the point where the tail lifts off the ground.
That will define your static nose over engine speed. Remove chocks and
untie and go practice and see what you can do.
I do not have heel brakes, but with practice one learns how to maneuver
with out them.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>I just started taxi testing my FireStar. I have the heal brakes that Kol>b
>sells as an option. I adjusted them so that they are just below the poin>t
>that they drag. It would take a Wal-Mart parking lot to turn this thing
>around on the ground. No matter how hard I push on the brake peddle I
>cannot lock a wheel and spin this thing around. I have read posts about
>lifting the tail by using power and then use rudder to spin around. This
>terrifies me as I don't want to nose the thing over. Any sugestions?=0D
>=0D
>Ron Payne
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
Ron, i have mechanical brakes on my fs1 and bike hand brake on the stick
to lock on both brakes at the same time, push right rudder pedal, go right,
push left go left, if you tail wheel is hooked up correctly you should be able
to turn inside a 50' circle, i can and both brakes are grabing at the same
time with just a little power, you should be able to turn in a tighter circle
because your brakes are independent. are you sure you have enough rudder
deflection? good luck.
Gary r. voigt
Ron or Mary wrote:
>
> I just started taxi testing my FireStar. I have the heal brakes that Kol> b
> sells as an option. I adjusted them so that they are just below the poin> t
> that they drag. It would take a Wal-Mart parking lot to turn this thing
> around on the ground. No matter how hard I push on the brake peddle I
> cannot lock a wheel and spin this thing around. I have read posts about
> lifting the tail by using power and then use rudder to spin around. This
> terrifies me as I don't want to nose the thing over. Any sugestions?=0D
> =0D
> Ron Payne
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: I got a hole in the top surface of my flap |
Yes. Big improvement. The details are at
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg1.htm
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I also took my first 200 mile trip in my Mark III. Lots of fun! It sure
>gulps the gas, I might have to figure out a way to make the gap seal area
>into a gas tank. Anyone accomplished that?
>Thanks,
>David Key
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
I am sure that I have enough rudder deflection. I had to install rudder
stops to stop the rudder from hitting the elevator with full deflection. I
was exaggerating a little about the Wal Mart parking lot. Maybe I can turn
in a 50 foot circle. I have the springs and chains on the tail wheel set as
per the Kolb instructions. After flying Champs maybe I expect to much. I
had to shut the engine down today and climb out and lift the tail around.
Not what you want spectators to see.
Thanks for the responce Gary.
Ron
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, June 22, 2002 02:02:57 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How Do You Steer These Things??
net>
Ron, i have mechanical brakes on my fs1 and bike hand brake on the stick
to lock on both brakes at the same time, push right rudder pedal, go right,
push left go left, if y
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
Good sugestion--I will try to determine the throttle setting the next time I
go to the airport which should be monday.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, June 22, 2002 02:02:40 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How Do You Steer These Things??
Ron,
With the narrow track of the main wheels, it is going to be difficult to
impossible to spin your plane using individual wheel braking. Tie your
tail wheel to a tie down, chock the main wheels, start the engine, get in
and advance the throttle to the point where the tail lifts off the ground.
That will define your static nose over engine speed. Remove chocks and
untie and go practice and see what you can do.
I do not have heel brakes, but with practice one learns how to maneuver
with out them.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>I just started taxi testing my FireStar. I have the heal brakes that Kol>b
>sells as an option. I adjusted them so that they are just below the poin>t
>that they drag. It would take a Wal-Mart parking lot to turn this thing
>around on the ground. No matter how hard I push on the brake peddle I
>cannot lock a wheel and spin this thing around. I have read posts about
>lifting the tail by using power and then use rudder to spin around. This
>terrifies me as I don't want to nose the thing over. Any sugestions?
>
>Ron Payne
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
Ron,
You could use my not-yet-patented chock-on-a-rope to hold one wheel.
Maybe a mod, putting the chock on the end of a stick, long enough to
hold wheel from cockpit. Before you laff yerself silly, think about it a
bit. I can't blast my FireFly around like any of the tail draggers I've
flown over the years. By the way, are the bolts a bit loose in the
backing plate? Should be, to center up.
Bob N
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
Can't quite get the concept. Do you carrry the chock on a rope in the
cockpit and just drop it out when you want to turn and then pull it back in?
The bolts in the brake backing plate are loose just as the plans call for.
Ron
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, June 22, 2002 05:08:52 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How Do You Steer These Things??
Ron,
You could use my not-yet-patented chock-on-a-rope to hold one wheel.
Maybe a mod, putting the chock on the end of a stick, long enough to
hold wheel from cockpit. Before you laff yerself silly, think about it a
bit. I can't blast my FireFly around like any of the tail draggers I've
flown over the years. By the way, are the bolts a bit loose in the
backing plate? Should be, to center up.
Bob N
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
Can't quite get the concept. Do you carrry the chock on a rope in the
cockpit and just drop it out when you want to turn and then pull it back in?
The bolts in the brake backing plate are loose just as the plans call for.
Ron
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, June 22, 2002 05:08:52 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How Do You Steer These Things??
Ron,
You could use my not-yet-patented chock-on-a-rope to hold one wheel.
Maybe a mod, putting the chock on the end of a stick, long enough to
hold wheel from cockpit. Before you laff yerself silly, think about it a
bit. I can't blast my FireFly around like any of the tail draggers I've
flown over the years. By the way, are the bolts a bit loose in the
backing plate? Should be, to center up.
Bob N
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
Ron.
Yes, I do have the chock-on-a-rope tied to cockpit. I always use it to
pull start (when standing outside cockpit), but only rarely have had to
use it for tight turning. This arpt is so big that I have a lot of room
to taxi and make mistakes! A few times, during a fly-in when I was kinda
wedged-in, I did throw out the anchor on the starboard bow. The chock
idea is no less odd than the practice of snubbing a tire with a shod
foot. Of course can't do that in a Kolb--at least the pod types.
Until you get hydaulic brakes, these go-cart binders ain't much good.
regards,
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I got a hole in the top surface of my flap |
Some Details ! ! ! That took imagination, and a tremendous amount of hard
work & skill. Nice work. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: I got a hole in the top surface of my flap
>
> Yes. Big improvement. The details are at
> http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg1.htm
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
>
> >I also took my first 200 mile trip in my Mark III. Lots of fun! It sure
> >gulps the gas, I might have to figure out a way to make the gap seal area
> >into a gas tank. Anyone accomplished that?
> >Thanks,
> >David Key
> >
> >
> >---
> >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>
>
> ---
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
In a message dated 6/22/02 2:44:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ronormar(at)apex.net writes:
> . It would take a Wal-Mart parking lot to turn this thing
> around on the ground. No matter how hard I push on the brake peddle I
> cannot lock a wheel and spin this thing around. I have read posts about
> lifting the tail by using power and then use rudder to spin around. This
> terrifies me as I don't want to nose the thing over. Any sugestions?=0D
> =0D
> Ron Payne
>
>
>
Yeah; stop the engine, get out, pick the tail up & turn it around.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
In a message dated 6/22/02 3:01:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jbhart(at)ldd.net
writes:
> Tie your
> tail wheel to a tie down, chock the main wheels, start the engine, get in
> and advance the throttle to the point where the tail lifts off the ground.
> That will define your static nose over engine speed. Remove chocks and
> untie and go practice and see what you can do.
>
>
There is a point where, even with full up elevator, the FS will nose over
[how embarassing]. This especially if you are on the heavy side.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
In a message dated 6/22/02 6:07:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ronoy(at)shentel.net writes:
> . By the way, are the bolts a bit loose in the
> backing plate? Should be, to center up.
>
>
Chuck, note the above; 'loose nuts on the backing plate to center up"
Shack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
Ron,
The problem is probablyu that the brakes are too new. It takes some wear
and reajustment before they work up to full potential. I went through
this on both my Firestars with the brakes that Kolb supplied. On my
current Firestar the origianl drums were so far out-of-round that I
could get them to work well and had to buy new drumbs. Anyway, both
planes could turn on a dime, with the Kolb supplied brakes.
John Jung
http://jrjung.0catch.com/Firestar.html
Ron or Mary wrote:
>
>I just started taxi testing my FireStar. I have the heal brakes that Kol>b
>sells as an option. I adjusted them so that they are just below the poin>t
>that they drag.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
Once I figure out how to use the digital camera my wife bought I will ( with
the help of my 14 year old ) post a picture of the modification I made to the
mechanical brakes of my Firestar II. The brakes are actuated by the
motorcycle style lever on the stick. I too was concerned about the seemingly
large area needed to turn around and I was not willing to take the nose cone
off and have the heel brake attachments welded on. I went to Lowes and bought
a 3" long piece of 1/4"X1" aluminum. I cut this in two 15" lengths and using
two 1/4" bolts on each piece, attached each piece to the brake actuating arm
that comes out of the brake hub. Now I can simply reach out (obviously I
don't have an enclosed cockpit) and pull the lever, locking whichever wheel I
choose. It works surprisingle well. Again, I will try to post pictires soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
I too have the open cockpit. I would really like to see those pictures. I
know what you mean about the digital camera thing. I bought one and after
much frustration, I returned it to Circuit City.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, June 23, 2002 10:23:15 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How Do You Steer These Things??
Once I figure out how to use the digital camera my wife bought I will ( with
the help of my 14 year old ) post a picture of the modification I made to
the
mechanical brakes of my Firestar II. The brakes are actuated by the
motorcycle style lever on the stick. I too was concerned about the seemingly
large area needed to turn around and I was not willing to take the nose cone
off and have the heel brake attachments welded on. I went to Lowes and
bought
a 3" long piece of 1/4"X1" aluminum. I cut this in two 15" lengths and using
two 1/4" bolts on each piece, attached each piece to the brake actuating arm
that comes out of the brake hub. Now I can simply reach out (obviously I
don't have an enclosed cockpit) and pull the lever, locking whichever wheel
I
choose. It works surprisingle well. Again, I will try to post pictires soon.
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How Do You Steer These Things?? |
I can't spin our FireFly on a dime but I've had no problem with it. Must
be technique?
Without a full swivel tail wheel you can't spin it like you can a Champ but
still I don't have to much problem. You have to plan ahead a little. The
FireFly with me in it will go over on it nose a lot easier than your
FireStar, it takes some help from the person in the seat.
jerryb
>
>I am sure that I have enough rudder deflection. I had to install rudder
>stops to stop the rudder from hitting the elevator with full deflection. I
>was exaggerating a little about the Wal Mart parking lot. Maybe I can turn
>in a 50 foot circle. I have the springs and chains on the tail wheel set as
>per the Kolb instructions. After flying Champs maybe I expect to much. I
>had to shut the engine down today and climb out and lift the tail around.
>Not what you want spectators to see.
>Thanks for the responce Gary.
>Ron
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Saturday, June 22, 2002 02:02:57 PM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How Do You Steer These Things??
>
>net>
>
>Ron, i have mechanical brakes on my fs1 and bike hand brake on the stick
>to lock on both brakes at the same time, push right rudder pedal, go right,
>push left go left, if y
>
>_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Phillips" <rphillip1999(at)hotmail.com> |
I've got a new set of Matco hydraulic brakes that I'm ready to install.
Problem is, no instructions. Can anyone tell me if I have to take the 2
halves apart to install the tubeless "O" ring or do I just let it ride in
the groove where the 2 meet? Also I don't know which direction the wheel is
supposed to turn in relation to the brake pad (if it matters)? Please help.
Russ
Kolb Mark III
Finally ready to rig the wings
In sunny (Ha Ha) Southwestern New York
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
| Subject: | Re: leading edge repair |
06/23/2002 01:19:17 PM
Hey gang
Im finally tackling a repair of some dents in my leading edge on my Mrk
III. Got a few questions...
The leading edge aluminum tubing appears to be 1 1/2 inch O.D.; Could
someone provide me with the wall proper wall thickness and alloy ?(6061T6?)
I plan on inserting a splice into the leading edge to replace the dented
section. The archives have a decent description of how to make the splice,
but when it comes to actually installing it, I want to make sure Im
thinking about this right. After cutting out the short dented section, it
looks like I will have to pull the two opposing leading edge pieces out of
alignment to allow insertion of the splice piece. Seems like this will
require cutting the fabric and drilling out the rib rivets for a
substantial portion of the leading edge. Suffice it to say that Im not
looking forward to all that fabric repair work and MEK odor, and would like
to minimize the size of my repair area. I bet there are a few of you who
have ventured down this path before me...How long a section of leading edge
should I plan on removing fabric and rivets from to allow insertion of the
splice piece? Hope this is understandable...
Thanks for any and all suggestions
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: leading edge repair |
A couple of thoughts, Erich..............1) how far from the end are the
dents ?? I dropped a wing, and put a pretty good dent about 3' in, so stood
it on its' nose on the table, inserted a piece of 1" steel water pipe well
past the dent, and tapped at it carefully. It took some pretty good taps
with a very large hammer, but it's very difficult now to see where the dent
was. Should work for quite a ways in. 2) Unless it's really mashed and
mis-shapen, maybe you could use some SuperFil from Poly Fiber. It's a 2
part, lightweight filler that would work very well for something like
that............sand it smooth, and paint it. 3) Possibly combine the 2
ideas ?? See you in a few weeks on my way north.
Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: leading edge repair
>
>
> Hey gang
>
> Im finally tackling a repair of some dents in my leading edge on my Mrk
> III. Got a few questions...
>
> The leading edge aluminum tubing appears to be 1 1/2 inch O.D.; Could
> someone provide me with the wall proper wall thickness and alloy
?(6061T6?)
>
> I plan on inserting a splice into the leading edge to replace the dented
> section. The archives have a decent description of how to make the
splice,
> but when it comes to actually installing it, I want to make sure Im
> thinking about this right. After cutting out the short dented section, it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Strut Fairings again |
Kolbers,
I published photos of the Wing Strut Fairings on my web page if
you are interested.
homepage.mac.com/gene1930
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes |
You have to take the halves apart to install the tire anyway. When you put
the tire on, put the o-ring on at the same time, and push it up onto the
shoulder of the wheel, right behind the 1st bead of the tire, while
assembling. Takes 3 hands and a well bitten tongue. Strong language won't
help, but may make you feel better. Lubricate the o-ring liberally with
silicone grease, make sure everything is SPOTLESS, and assemble. I also
used a light coating of silicone grease on the part of the shoulder where
the tire slides into place. This has been discussed before, amid
considerable controversy, but so far, 1 of my tires have only a slight
leak............needs topping every 3 or 4 months, and the other only needs
it about twice a year..............and it's been sitting out there for Years
! ! ! When you clean & grease the o-ring, feel it carefully with your
fingertips..........you can feel grit that you can't see. On the
instruction page, Matco says in #5 that - "The ideal mounting position for
brake caliper is trailing side of wheel at 270 degrees from vertical.
However it may be mounted at any location as long as the system can be bled
of air properly." You could also call Matco at 801-486-7574. I had
other problems with mine, and found them to be extremely good people to deal
with. I could also scan the pages (3) and email them to you.
Too bad we couldn't split the difference on the sun............here it's
over 100 degrees out there, and no shortage of sun ! ! ! Big
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Phillips" <rphillip1999(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Matco Brakes
>
>
> I've got a new set of Matco hydraulic brakes that I'm ready to install.
> Problem is, no instructions. Can anyone tell me if I have to take the 2
> halves apart to install the tubeless "O" ring or do I just let it ride in
> the groove where the 2 meet? Also I don't know which direction the wheel
is
> supposed to turn in relation to the brake pad (if it matters)? Please
help.
> Russ
> Kolb Mark III
> Finally ready to rig the wings
> In sunny (Ha Ha) Southwestern New York
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes |
Sorry...........I didn't answer part of your question..............yes, it
rides in the groove of the assembled halves. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Phillips" <rphillip1999(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Matco Brakes
>
>
> I've got a new set of Matco hydraulic brakes that I'm ready to install.
> Problem is, no instructions. Can anyone tell me if I have to take the 2
> halves apart to install the tubeless "O" ring or do I just let it ride in
> the groove where the 2 meet? Also I don't know which direction the wheel
is
> supposed to turn in relation to the brake pad (if it matters)? Please
help.
> Russ
> Kolb Mark III
> Finally ready to rig the wings
> In sunny (Ha Ha) Southwestern New York
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
I have a Firefly #35 and I would like the list to respond to several
questions:
Would lowering the gear leg length two or three inches effect the
landing and take-off capability of the Firefly?
If this is feasible could I just put more of the gear leg in the gear
tube and drill another hole? Would it be best to cut the small end off?
Does any other Firefly fliers know their cage heigth at the seat
location?
I know this would change the angle of attack.
Is there a standard heigth recommended? The manuals I have does not
reference this.
I fly off a grass field and a airport, a little longer take off would
not hurt.
Jimmy Hankinson
912-863-7384
Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
jhankin(at)planters.net
Kolb Firefly/447/210hrs/60JH
Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
It would affect both T/O and landing. My first thought is you would be
touching down on the tail wheel first, probably harder than normal or
desired. What's your reason for wanting to do this?
jerryb
>
>I have a Firefly #35 and I would like the list to respond to several
>questions:
>
>Would lowering the gear leg length two or three inches effect the
>landing and take-off capability of the Firefly?
>
>If this is feasible could I just put more of the gear leg in the gear
>tube and drill another hole? Would it be best to cut the small end off?
>
>Does any other Firefly fliers know their cage heigth at the seat
>location?
>
>I know this would change the angle of attack.
>
>Is there a standard heigth recommended? The manuals I have does not
>reference this.
>
>I fly off a grass field and a airport, a little longer take off would
>not hurt.
>
>Jimmy Hankinson
>912-863-7384
>Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
>jhankin(at)planters.net
>Kolb Firefly/447/210hrs/60JH
>Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
>Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
The reason for wanting to lower the cage is that with the engine idling and
having to stand on my toes and do a balancing act to get into the ultralight
is not the safest way to enter an utralight.
Jimmy Hankinson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: carb ice again |
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> My fellow airport bums tell me that there are some engines that use a tem> perature
probe on the carburetor to anticipate icing conditions. Has anyo> ne tried
this on Rotax? I have never had the problem on my two cycles but> the 912
may be different
> John Hauck's Miss P'fer has coolant-heated coils in the carb intakes but
> he did not consider them essential.
>
> Ideas, suggestions?
Duane,
Per John Haucks suggestion that trailing carbs are less prone to icing, I
turned the my 912 carbs around to the back and have been flying with this
setup for 3 years.
Only small modifications are needed if you have the prop extension.
see picture below;
http://home.netcom.com/~reynen/kolb/912rotax.jpg
Additional info also on my website under "Tech Info" page
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
Frank Reynen MKIII 912/Lotus floats 676 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 06/23/02 |
I know John H doesn't recommend this, but is there any MK 3 flyers that have
the area behind their head, shoulders, and back closed off and find it ok to
remove the doors for flight in hot weather ? I have 1" foam there,covered
with black fabric, which greatly reduces prop noise. Others have closed that
area with fabric. I guess the concern is disrupting the airflow after it
passes the windsreen and it will act or fly real strange ?
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
Russ,
I just looked over the Matco website at http://www.matcomfg.com/
but couldn't find where I got the .pdf file of the instructions(They
might have pulled it off their site...). But here is a link to my
website...where you can download a copy of it...
http://kilocharlieaero.homestead.com/files/Matco_20MH_20Series_20Technic
al_20Service_20Guide.pdf
If you don't need it...don't click on the link, cause it's a large file
and eats up a lot of bandwidth on my website...but if you need it then
be my guest.
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
___
I've got a new set of Matco hydraulic brakes that I'm ready to install.
Problem is, no instructions. Can anyone tell me if I have to take the 2
halves apart to install the tubeless "O" ring or do I just let it ride
in
the groove where the 2 meet? Also I don't know which direction the
wheel is
supposed to turn in relation to the brake pad (if it matters)? Please
help.
Russ
Kolb Mark III
Finally ready to rig the wings
In sunny (Ha Ha) Southwestern New York
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 06/23/02 |
I closed off that area on my MKIII this last winter, (have not upgraded the
website to show changes yet) and in order to keep the cockpit cool, I got
two of those 3" diameter snap in vents and put them into the door Lexan.
They work great, even in the heat of the day. They only cost $8 per pair
from Aircraft Spruce, unfortunately the 3&1/4" hole saw to cut the holes
costs $35...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>I know John H doesn't recommend this, but is there any MK 3 flyers that have
>the area behind their head, shoulders, and back closed off and find it ok to
>remove the doors for flight in hot weather ? I have 1" foam there,covered
>with black fabric, which greatly reduces prop noise. Others have closed that
>area with fabric. I guess the concern is disrupting the airflow after it
>passes the windsreen and it will act or fly real strange ?
>
>Bob Griffin
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | No-o-o! Not Seafoam again !!! |
I started my engine this morning after a one-week-per-cylinder SeaFoam treatment.
She didn't want to start but after coughing through about 20 pulls she sputtered
to life and finally smoothed out. I held her at 2500 rpm for 10 minutes
then increased it to 3500 rpm for another two minutes. She was still smoking when
I shut her down. EGT1050/CHT 250.
It bothers me a little that she was still smoking. Maybe its time to re-set the
needle valve back to the original position. It was set to the third notch ( more
rich) when I had high temp problems for the first 30 Hrs.
It looked like my nice white airplane was going to be recognized as "the
one with the black tail" when the engine stopped. After about thirty minutes of
enthusiastic scrubbing she finally came clean again.
I'm staying in the pattern for the next few hours to make sure I did more good
than harm.
Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN007, 447, IVO, Mk3 912 in shop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: No-o-o! Not Seafoam again !!! |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Duane and others,
The Seafoam treatment is purging the engine of carbon deposits. The
length of time it's blowing out white smoke determines how dirty the
engine is. I've had mine go as long as 10 minutes and as little as 3. If
the treatment is done often, there is no residue on the tail.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
writes:
>
> I started my engine this morning after a one-week-per-cylinder
> SeaFoam tr> eatment. She didn't want to start but after coughing through about
> 20 pul> ls she sputtered to life and finally smoothed out. I held her at
> 2500 rpm> for 10 minutes then increased it to 3500 rpm for another two
> minutes. Sh> e was still smoking when I shut her down. EGT1050/CHT 250.
>
> It bothers me a little that she was still smoking. Maybe its time to
> re-s> et the needle valve back to the original position. It was set to the
> thir> d notch ( more rich) when I had high temp problems for the first 30
> Hrs.
>
> It looked like my nice white airplane was going to be recognized as
> "the
> one with the black tail" when the engine stopped. After about thirty
> minu> tes of enthusiastic scrubbing she finally came clean again.
>
> I'm staying in the pattern for the next few hours to make sure I did
> more> good than harm.
>
> Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN007, 447, IVO, Mk3 912
> in sho> p.
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
This last winter I made several changes to my MKIII. Enclosed the fuselage
similar to John Hauck's Miss P'Fer, except that I included an air duct to
ram air from just below the leading edge to a rear mounted radiator. Added
cabin heat and made new doors. Have a number of hours on it now that it's
done, and the pictures are on the website if anyone is interested.
Am disappointed in a few areas. Rate of climb is down a bit, top speed is
down a bit, and am getting some nuisance trim changes at higher airspeeds.
Obviously enclosing my upper fuselage would change the airflow into the
prop disc, however at higher airspeeds, the flow changes for the worse. At
higher airspeeds, it is apparent that the top half of the prop is working,
and the bottom half isn't.
So if some of the aerodynamics guru's on the list would please take a look,
(Dennis? Topher?) and give me some suggestions, I am open to any and all
input...
The dastardly deed is at
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/kolb.htm
look under: 2001-02 Modifications - Enclosing the Cockpit
Thanks,
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Wing Strut Fairings |
Gene, might as well ask this question as a response to your comments on strut
fairings.Has anyone tried to correct a very slight wing drop tendency by
changing the strut fairing angle of attack on the low wing side? G Aman FS2
170 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
> Obviously enclosing my upper fuselage would change the airflow into the
> prop disc, however at higher airspeeds, the flow changes for the worse. At
> higher airspeeds, it is apparent that the top half of the prop is working,
> and the bottom half isn't.
it might be that the trim change is related to aoa not airspeed. as you
speed up the relative wind comes at you at less and less of an angle,
bringing the blockage of flow from your radiator bump from around the middle
of the prop to the lower middle of the prop. or it may be that at some
critical airspeed the flow separates from the steep sides of the rear
fuselage. the key to determining what's going on will be tufting the aft
fuselage and videotaping the transiting from low to highspeed and high to
low aoa. if you see the tufts change angle but continue to lay flat then it
isn't separation and the vg wont help. if the tufts start bouncing around
or pointing backwards then you have separation and you will know where to
place the vgs.( right up stream of the bad tufts)
another possibility is that the flat part of the windscreen under your wing
center section starts spilling lots of air sideways at some airspeed. that
sideways flow of air would trip separation along the sides of the fuselage.
stick your hand out the back window at various speeds and see if there is a
sudden increase in side flow off the back of the flat part of the
windscreen. if there is you could stick a flow fence there to force that
air up over the wing center section.
as I have said before, you have two ways to go to get low drag at the wing
fuselage junction, make it real small like a parasol wing or make it real
big with fillets. you are currently right in the middle, a very square
junction, which is hard on airflow.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Wing Strut Fairings |
> Gene, might as well ask this question as a response to your comments on strut
> fairings.Has anyone tried to correct a very slight wing drop tendency by
> changing the strut fairing angle of attack on the low wing side? G Aman FS2
> 170 Hrs
------------------------------------------------
I have no idea if this has ever been tried. I am aware that most folks have solved
that problem with a fixed trim tab on one of the ailerons.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | new engine options |
a gentilman in austrailia sent me this.. it may be an other
engine option for some.
http://www.bmw.flyer.co.uk/index.htm
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new engine options |
I've heard of those, and heard they're good, but I understand weight is a
problem. Be interesting to see. One person who used one is VERY pleased
with it. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "b young" <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: new engine options
>
> a gentilman in austrailia sent me this.. it may be an other
> engine option for some.
>
> http://www.bmw.flyer.co.uk/index.htm
>
> boyd
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Artdog1512(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/25/2002 2:51:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
> Subject: Kolb-List: No-o-o! Not Seafoam again !!!
>
wasn't it Patrick Henry that said - "give me Seafoam or give me
death!"?....................... tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: that's right! |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
wasn't it Patrick Henry that said - "give me Seafoam or give me
death!"?....................... tim
No, that was Ralph B. that said that ....
do not arhive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FIRESTAR II HORIZONTAL STAB BROKEN TUBING |
Over the last few months I have been observing some straight black lines
forming on my horizontal stab [right side]. Could not determine the cause
until last Sunday when I actually felt the lines & saw that there are two
braces in there that moved.
Haven't removed the covering yet, but they appear busted loose where they
attached to the root tube.
A hangar-mate has a complete FS II empennage [sp]; I wonder if it would be
easier to just replace the whole tail [the color is OK] or pull the covering
off the stab., re-rivet [?], re-cover, & paint?
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALLENB007(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rotax and PowerFin Questions |
I'd appreciate an answer to a couple of questions.
I've got a Rotax 503 Dual Carb, Single Ignition and don't know the spark plug
gap.
Secondly I'd like to know to what torque are the powerfin prop users
tightening the bolts down to.
Thanks in advance for the help,
Firefly Owner Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FIRESTAR II HORIZONTAL STAB BROKEN TUBING |
Shack,
You could replace the whole tail in a few hours. Recovering and
repainting would take days at best.
John Jung
HShack(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Over the last few months I have been observing some straight black lines
>forming on my horizontal stab [right side].
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Broken outer most rib (Original FS 5 rib) Need help |
| From: | <nielsenk(at)olg.com> |
My secound taxi and my boots were fighting for rudder control at or less than
10 mph. Bumped tree.... Anyways, on the right wing of a 5 rib wing, the outer
most full rib was bent. On further investigation, making a small whole in
fabric, I can see that the rib appears cracked at the point just behind the
leading edge where a couple small supports come together and are riveted and
sandwiched between plates. To fix this: first, Ken K. do you still have those
5 rib wings...Secound, is it possible to replace a full rib and possible
support tubes without redoing the entire wing fabric? Who should I contact for
parts? By the way: I took my boots off and on my fourth taxi run I was at 40
mph indicated and tail wheel off the ground, full legnth of the field. After
30 min's of taxi work, I spin the tail around with slight nose forward
pressure. I realize I am at the verge and floating at 40 mph in ground
affect. I won't do anymore ground training until I and the 85 FS with 377 are
both ready, which we are not; but I believe that what you have done a hundred
times in your mind, you can do with your body. Also, Stick and Rudder. I
can't say enough about how that book has brought together 5 hrs of dual
instruction in a Rans S-12 with the point I am at now. Grounded till more
training and plain are ready.
Kurt F. Nielsen
(703) 963-2294 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Wow! This is what makes this list so great. Good going Topher!!
I also have a fully enclosed MKIII classic. I have been looking at two
areas on my plane for drag reduction. The area were the fuselage
transitions from the wide part to the narrow back. Richard Pike pulled
his doors in to reduce the angle of this transition and then added VGs.
Great idea, do the more narrow doors feel more confining? Can I assume
my more standard shape doors would benefit even more from the VGs on the
trailing edge of my doors???
The other area of concern is the where the windshield meets the
underside of the wing (were Mr Pike put his scoop). The Extra model has
a faring that allows air to flow up over the wing. Does anyone have an
idea how to smooth air flow in this area on our classics. Would a flow
fence with faring work?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> Tophera(at)centurytel.net 06/24/02 09:16PM >>>
another possibility is that the flat part of the windscreen under your
wing
center section starts spilling lots of air sideways at some airspeed.
that
sideways flow of air would trip separation along the sides of the
fuselage.
stick your hand out the back window at various speeds and see if there
is a
sudden increase in side flow off the back of the flat part of the
windscreen. if there is you could stick a flow fence there to force
that
air up over the wing center section.
as I have said before, you have two ways to go to get low drag at the
wing
fuselage junction, make it real small like a parasol wing or make it
real
big with fillets. you are currently right in the middle, a very
square
junction, which is hard on airflow.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
I am 5' 11" and 190 pounds and they do not feel more confining, but there
is a bit less room than before. Keep your old doors, make new ones, if you
don't like them, switch back.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Wow! This is what makes this list so great. Good going Topher!!
>
>I also have a fully enclosed MKIII classic. I have been looking at two
>areas on my plane for drag reduction. The area were the fuselage
>transitions from the wide part to the narrow back. Richard Pike pulled
>his doors in to reduce the angle of this transition and then added VGs.
>Great idea, do the more narrow doors feel more confining? Can I assume
>my more standard shape doors would benefit even more from the VGs on the
>trailing edge of my doors???
>
>The other area of concern is the where the windshield meets the
>underside of the wing (were Mr Pike put his scoop). The Extra model has
>a faring that allows air to flow up over the wing. Does anyone have an
>idea how to smooth air flow in this area on our classics. Would a flow
>fence with faring work?
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
>>>> Tophera(at)centurytel.net 06/24/02 09:16PM >>>
>
>another possibility is that the flat part of the windscreen under your
>wing
>center section starts spilling lots of air sideways at some airspeed.
>that
>sideways flow of air would trip separation along the sides of the
>fuselage.
>stick your hand out the back window at various speeds and see if there
>is a
>sudden increase in side flow off the back of the flat part of the
>windscreen. if there is you could stick a flow fence there to force
>that
>air up over the wing center section.
>
> as I have said before, you have two ways to go to get low drag at the
>wing
>fuselage junction, make it real small like a parasol wing or make it
>real
>big with fillets. you are currently right in the middle, a very
>square
>junction, which is hard on airflow.
>
>
>Topher
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Kolb MKIII Tweaks & Hints |
Got the pictures of the flow fences on the web page.
Would like to fly some more and get better numbers, but we have
thunderstorms this morning. That's OK. We'll take the rain anyway we can
get it!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/kolb.htm
[DEFAULT]
BASEURL=http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/kolb.htm
[InternetShortcut]
URL=http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/kolb.htm
Modified=600B345E301DC2010D
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Kolb Gang
I am very happy to report that my 2 years of hard work all came
together at noon on monday the 24th. My Mark III Xtra decided in a
gust of wind it had enough of this taxi stuff, First flight was short
(5 Min) but sweet. With only minor adjustments needed (Raise the
front of the Horisontal stabs, and add a trim tab to the left
aileron.) What a great flying machine. My thanks go out to Homer, the
gang at TNK, this list and my personnal(all-though 1500 miles
away)test pilot Izek Therrien. Izek has been a great help and
resource during this adventure.
I'll post more later, It's a great day today so I think I'm gonna go
fly, Kolb Style, I Love it.
Thanks Again to All
Guy Swenson
MK III Xtra
582-B-Warp 3Bld
N3053B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
I have been looking at a set of Avid mountain bike cable actuated disc
breaks. They sure look good. Has anyone tried them on a FireStar?=0D
=0D
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Kroll" <skroll(at)dellepro.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 06/25/02 |
Way to go Ken. Looks like you will get into the air before me. Let me
know when you are ready to fly. I'd be happy to come down from Denton
and observe when you are making your test hops.
Steve Kroll
Mk 2 (almost ready to cover repaired leading edges)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Harsh<DaleHarsh(at)earthlink.net> |
Has anyone used a Hirth 3203 (used to be the 2706)in a Mark III Xtra? Seems to
be a good fit, air cooled, good power to weight ratio, oil and fuel injection.
Kind of 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other with the Rotax 582 but I haven't
heard anyone talk about the Hirth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FIRESTAR II HORIZONTAL STAB BROKEN TUBING |
No doubt it would be quicker,but don't you wanna know why it failed?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Brocious" <bbrocious(at)hotmail.com> |
Kolb'ers,
My name is Bob Brocious. I just brought home Tim Townsend's Mark III from Missouri.
It is about 95% complete. Being a new Kolb owner and a novice builder I look
forward to learning from all the experienced builder/flyers on this list.
I've been a member of this list off an on for about two years.
I want to thank Jim Gerkin for his continued support and help in locating this
aircraft, and Tim T. for building such a pretty airplane and keeping such good
docs! With a little help I should be flying before the colors change.
Respectfully,
Bob, Kathleen, and Kory BrociousTenacity Farm
Campbellsburg, Kentucky
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Blane Cox" <coxhb(at)hotmail.com> |
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Stripes" <stripes(at)voicenet.com> |
Hirth makes an engine. I went to their site and all they talked about was
their engines compared to other snowmobile engines.... And I may be a bit
thick, but i wanted it for an airplane. Lots of bad p.r. about their tbo
time and the chances of making it to it. I researched a lot and went with a
jabiru. good luck.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Harsh" <DaleHarsh(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Hirth 3203?
>
> Has anyone used a Hirth 3203 (used to be the 2706)in a Mark III Xtra?
Seems to
> be a good fit, air cooled, good power to weight ratio, oil and fuel
injection.
> Kind of 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other with the Rotax 582 but I haven't
> heard anyone talk about the Hirth.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:FIRESTAR II HORIZONTAL STAB BROKEN TUBING |
In a message dated 6/26/02 5:18:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ZepRep251(at)aol.com writes:
> No doubt it would be quicker,but don't you wanna know why it failed?
>
>
>
After I install the new empennage I'll take the covering off & take a look.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | Votex Generators |
Jack Hart thank you::
Just finished installing my vortex generators this week, tested it
today. Wind was very calm this evening. Take off ground effect was at a
lower speed.
Was not watching air speed as much, not knowing what to expect in
handling, this was what I was concerned about.
I gained about 6 mph at cruise and the Firefly would climb with no stick
input, before it wanted to nose over.
The turns were much easier, no fighting the ailerons. Very little
pressure to turn and hold altitude. Did not grip the stick hard as in
the past.
Before I would have to apply a lot of pressure to turn. It felt
uncomfortable.
Landing was much easier, came in a 4000 rpm and was able to fly it to
the ground and flair just before touchdown.
Jack, it is people like you that makes our flying better. Since signing
on to this site I have learned much. Thanks to all the rest of you for
all your suggestions and knowledge.
I guess you could say this tamed the tiger.
Jimmy Hankinson
912-863-7384
Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
jhankin(at)planters.net
Kolb Firefly/447/210hrs 60JH
Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken outer most rib (Original FS 5 rib) Need |
help
>.Secound, is it possible to replace a full rib and possible
>support tubes without redoing the entire wing fabric? Who should I
>contact for
>parts?
Had this problem a couple years ago in a MK111 that snagged a tree on
landing. We cut back to undamaged metal and replaced 2 or 3 ribs and a
small piece of leading edge and tip bow. Sounds like you have less to do.
Remove the fabric from the wing tip to the broken rib. Keep some extra
fabric past the broken rib so you can wrap it around the new rib when it is
installed. Install the new fabric over that and on to the second rib. This
gives a great overlap and should never come off and the end is riveted to
the second rib also. Shrink and paint as before.
Perhaps you can just remove some bottom fabric and replace the broken
pieces and patch the fabric as per instructions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congrats on the first flight. Izec sure is getting around these days.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Every one has heard of a Hirth that has failed and will not try one
because of it. They seem to forget all the stories of Rotaxes failing. I
fly a 2703 and a buddy flies a 2706. We like the engines.A Hirth is not a
Rotax and should not be set up like one. Go by the manual and you will have
a lot less problems. Thank the Rotax boys for their input but if it
conflicts with Hirth data use what Hirth tells you.
----System Information
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Machine Type: Intel
System Version: 4.10.1998
Processor: Pentium
Physical RAM Installed: 48672 Kb
Eudora: Version 5.1
Mode: Sponsored Mode
Registration #:
MSHTML Version: 4.72
WININET Version: 4.72
rth is not a Riotax so
>
>Has anyone used a Hirth 3203 (used to be the 2706)in a Mark III Xtra? Seems to
>be a good fit, air cooled, good power to weight ratio, oil and fuel injection.
>Kind of 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other with the Rotax 582 but I haven't
>heard anyone talk about the Hirth.
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congratulations on your new toy, Guy. Have fun & be safe after that
tremendous effort ! ! ! You-all will inspire me to finish Vamoose
yet.............after summer's heat is over. I'm preparing now for
vacation, and Vamoose will be going into locked storage for a couple of
months. Going-to-gittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: First Flight
>
>
> Kolb Gang
> I am very happy to report that my 2 years of hard work all came
> together at noon on monday the 24th. My Mark III Xtra decided in a
> gust of wind it had enough of this taxi stuff, First flight was short
> (5 Min) but sweet. With only minor adjustments needed (Raise the
> front of the Horisontal stabs, and add a trim tab to the left
> aileron.) What a great flying machine. My thanks go out to Homer, the
> gang at TNK, this list and my personnal(all-though 1500 miles
> away)test pilot Izek Therrien. Izek has been a great help and
> resource during this adventure.
>
> I'll post more later, It's a great day today so I think I'm gonna go
> fly, Kolb Style, I Love it.
>
> Thanks Again to All
> Guy Swenson
> MK III Xtra
> 582-B-Warp 3Bld
> N3053B
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 06/26/02 |
In a message dated 6/27/02 2:51:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> It's a great day today so I think I'm gonna go
> > fly, Kolb Style, I Love it.
>
OH WHAT A FEELING!!! Congratulations on your 1st. trip around the patch with
your MK3ext Guy. Hope you have many safe hrs. of flying.
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thanks Topher |
> Topher: You Da Man!
> Thanks. Thanks a lot.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Please write your thanks on a $100 bill and send to
Kolb needs instruments fund
C/O Christopher Armstrong
111 planepoor lane
Osceola WI 33333
That's great, I am really impressed how fast you added those fences! Now
you gotta wonder how much of the performance improvement is the skinny
doors, the VGs or the flow fences!!! time to start swapping parts!
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle Engines |
>Subject: Kolb-List: Motorcycle Engines on Planes
>
>
>Boyd, on motorcycle engines for aircraft use- for some
>reason it has never really worked out. I know the
>Henderson was used in the olden days; and Long's
>Harlequin engine used Harley cyls., but maybe
>motorcycle engines are worked too hard because, other
>than one Graham Lee Nieuport I heard of that used a
>Kawasaki, you hardly see them on homebuilts. Plus,
>maybe BMWs are cheaper in Oz, but you would hardly
>save any money buying one in the USA for your
>airplane.
>
>Yours,
>
>"Ted"
>
Sorry Ted to disagree with you but there are many four-stroke BMW's flying.
In England alone there must be at least 50 or 60. They are also flying in
Germany, Holland, France, Italy, South Africa and Australia.
The BMW R100 has been certified in the UK for microlights and their
standards are far higher than ours.
I purchased my low mileage BMW R100 for $900.- complete, The rotax C gearbox
was more expensive than the engine. The parts are a fraction of rotax parts.
You can easily purchase a good low mileage engine for under $1,500.-
The new BMW R1100 engine is also certified and is almost half the price of a
Rotax 912
There was a forum on BMW engine conversions at Sun-N-Fun this year. I guess
you missed it, it was on Friday.
In the US we are not familiar with the BMW as yet and are apprehensive of
something new...
P.S. If I did not have a BMW , I would use the Hirth F30 - detuned to 80
hp. an excellent engine with nikasil cylinders. (see kitplanes June 2002)
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Xtra.
BMW R100 powered.
53 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle Engines |
Where, in the US, can I find an R1100 for sale?
-- Robert
>
>
> >Subject: Kolb-List: Motorcycle Engines on Planes
> >
> >
>
> >Boyd, on motorcycle engines for aircraft use- for some
> >reason it has never really worked out. I know the
> >Henderson was used in the olden days; and Long's
> >Harlequin engine used Harley cyls., but maybe
> >motorcycle engines are worked too hard because, other
> >than one Graham Lee Nieuport I heard of that used a
> >Kawasaki, you hardly see them on homebuilts. Plus,
> >maybe BMWs are cheaper in Oz, but you would hardly
> >save any money buying one in the USA for your
> >airplane.
> >
> >Yours,
> >
> >"Ted"
> >
>Sorry Ted to disagree with you but there are many four-stroke BMW's flying.
>In England alone there must be at least 50 or 60. They are also flying in
>Germany, Holland, France, Italy, South Africa and Australia.
>The BMW R100 has been certified in the UK for microlights and their
>standards are far higher than ours.
>I purchased my low mileage BMW R100 for $900.- complete, The rotax C gearbox
>was more expensive than the engine. The parts are a fraction of rotax parts.
>You can easily purchase a good low mileage engine for under $1,500.-
>The new BMW R1100 engine is also certified and is almost half the price of a
>Rotax 912
>There was a forum on BMW engine conversions at Sun-N-Fun this year. I guess
>you missed it, it was on Friday.
>In the US we are not familiar with the BMW as yet and are apprehensive of
>something new...
>P.S. If I did not have a BMW , I would use the Hirth F30 - detuned to 80
>hp. an excellent engine with nikasil cylinders. (see kitplanes June 2002)
>
>Hans van Alphen
>Mark III Xtra.
>BMW R100 powered.
>53 hours.
>
>
------------------------------------------------
mailto:rlaird(at)cavediver.com
http://www.rlaird.net
Phone: 713-503-2949
Fax: 425-928-3369
------------------------------------------------
There is an exception to every rule! ... er,
except this one...
No generalization is worth a damn, .....including
this one...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle Engines |
I found a web site when I was looking to replace my VW where someone
sells brand new BMW R1100s with reduction drives designed for the BMW
engine. The engine are in three states of tune they sell exhaust
systems, props etc. If anyone is interested I will look it up tonight
and post it. The company was in Germany or somewhere in Europe. The BMW
engine has a bullet proof reputation on motor cycles. My only concern
was would I be happy with high rpm (screaming) four stroke.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> HVA(at)bellsouth.net 06/27/02 11:28AM >>>
>Subject: Kolb-List: Motorcycle Engines on Planes
>
>
>Boyd, on motorcycle engines for aircraft use- for some
>reason it has never really worked out. I know the
>Henderson was used in the olden days; and Long's
>Harlequin engine used Harley cyls., but maybe
>motorcycle engines are worked too hard because, other
>than one Graham Lee Nieuport I heard of that used a
>Kawasaki, you hardly see them on homebuilts. Plus,
>maybe BMWs are cheaper in Oz, but you would hardly
>save any money buying one in the USA for your
>airplane.
>
>Yours,
>
>"Ted"
>
Sorry Ted to disagree with you but there are many four-stroke BMW's
flying.
In England alone there must be at least 50 or 60. They are also flying
in
Germany, Holland, France, Italy, South Africa and Australia.
The BMW R100 has been certified in the UK for microlights and their
standards are far higher than ours.
I purchased my low mileage BMW R100 for $900.- complete, The rotax C
gearbox
was more expensive than the engine. The parts are a fraction of rotax
parts.
You can easily purchase a good low mileage engine for under $1,500.-
The new BMW R1100 engine is also certified and is almost half the price
of a
Rotax 912
There was a forum on BMW engine conversions at Sun-N-Fun this year. I
guess
you missed it, it was on Friday.
In the US we are not familiar with the BMW as yet and are apprehensive
of
something new...
P.S. If I did not have a BMW , I would use the Hirth F30 - detuned to
80
hp. an excellent engine with nikasil cylinders. (see kitplanes June
2002)
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Xtra.
BMW R100 powered.
53 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Cowan" <tcowan1917(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 06/26/02 |
actually, good friends, I have had several good conversations with people
using and selling and modifying the BMW engine and mods. they claim very
great results and long TBO. It is not all that difficult to find a used one
or even a new block is not expensive compared to the overprised, overprided
rotux 912. not much difference in weight either. this engine and mods are
extensively used in europe I understand and a french dealer has a direct
drive mod you can get or use a box of your chosing. I have several web
sites to view if anyone is seriously thinking of them. I for one have driven
beemers for over thirty years and have a 750 with well over a hundred thou
on it and going strong. If and when I go to a two place, it will have a
boxer pushin it you can bet. my opinions. or -- just keep paying those
outlandish prices for the rotax - by the way is built by bombadier (spel).
all the same people, almost. ted cowan, alabama.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bill-jo" <bill-jo(at)prodigy.net> |
Hey List, does anybody know where Ray Baker is who use to live in
North Fla?
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | foam in wings for Firestar, 277, FSII wing |
Hello all,
Does anyone know what type of foam to use to stiffen and make the wings
"floatation"? I would like to find some type to inject to do this. I am also
looking for a Rotax 277 and a FS2 wing/kit (both sides). Any ideas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
> Every one has heard of a Hirth that has failed and will not try one
>because of it. They seem to forget all the stories of Rotaxes failing. I
>fly a 2703 and a buddy flies a 2706. We like the engines.A Hirth is not a
<>Rotax and should not be set up like one. Go by the manual and you will
have
>a lot less problems. Thank the Rotax boys for their input but if it
>conflicts with Hirth data use what Hirth tells you.
I have 150 hrs. on a Hirth 40 hp. 2702, runs great. Only problem I've had is
it's fussy about the connections for the Ignition switch- they have to be
sound connections or a misfire occurs. Watch out -- you can get a 200v jolt
messing with the wires!
Darren , FS 1 Cent.MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Congratulations!! Keep us advised on how the testing goes. News like
that keeps us building.
(I'm finishing up a 4 month kitchen remodel from floor to ceiling.
Hopefully will be able to get back on more important projects next
month.)
Rex Rodebush
From: "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: First Flight .................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <George_Bass_0(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle Engines |
You might give a try to a company Northeast of the Scottsdale
and Phoenix area, called "ALL BIKES". On Hwy 87 at Rye, Az.
Their address is: HCR Box 1229, Payson, Az. 85541
Their Phone # is: 928-474-2526
These guys have been 'collecting' bikes for many years and have
always had nearly everything I ever needed. At a very reasonable
price, too. At the very least, they could steer you the right course.
George Bass
USUA # 80399
USUA Club # 555
USUA Club # 770
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <George_Bass_0(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle Engines |
I believe that you are refering to the link below:
http://www.bmw.flyer.co.uk/index.htm
>
>I found a web site when I was looking to replace my VW where someone
>sells brand new BMW R1100s with reduction drives designed for the
>BMWengine. The engine are in three states of tune they sell exhaust
>systems, props etc. If anyone is interested I will look it up tonight
>and post it. The company was in Germany or somewhere in Europe. The >BMW
engine has a bullet proof reputation on motor cycles. My only concern
>was would I be happy with high rpm (screaming) four stroke.
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DCREECH3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle Engines on Planes |
Flying into Scottsburg Indiana a while back, I saw an extremely nice
single-place homebuilt biplane, something like a scaled-down Jenny, powered
by a V-twin Moto Guzzi motorcycle engine. Don't know who did it, or if it's
one of a kind, but it was very neatly done.
Lee in Ky
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 6/26/02 11:34:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
neilsenr(at)michigan.gov writes:
> The Extra model has
> a faring that allows air to flow up over the wing. Does anyone have an
> idea how to smooth air flow in this area on our classics. Would a flow
> fence with faring work?
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
Rick,
New Kolb was working on a windshield/wing fairing for the classic about 18
months ago. Danny was going to send me one when they made more........ I
guess they dropped the project.
Steven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dixieshack(at)webtv.net (Mike and Dixie Shackelford) |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna scars |
Hey Dave........Cessna drivers get them funky scars on their foreheads.
You know, those diamond-shaped ones.....doin' th' walk-around and
reachng for a fuel sample and .......uh oh, I forgot about th' flaps
hangin' out.
Have a good weekend guys
Mike in WV
FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle Engines |
Actually I was thinking of
http://www.microlightsport.co.uk/Catalogue/bmwengine.htm The offer
80, 90, and 100HP versions of the BMW engine with a designed for
redrive.
Also " It's that, or a screaming two-stroke. ". Well that's not
entirely true. Generally a four stroke has to be twice the displacement
or run higher RPM to produce the same HP as a two stroke. When I made
the statement I was thinking of a small two cylinder four stroke with
apposed cylinders I think it is a HSK. This engine sounds like a high
two stroke (maybe even a more irritating sound) and with twice the
moving parts. The Rotax 912, Volimere(sp) 1400, and my VW are not what I
would call screaming four strokes. My VW cruises at 3300 RPM, Its kind
of loud but the pitch is low enough that it not irritating. When I read
the information on the BMW last night they talked about how quiet the
engine is. If the noise is low enough and the engine is balanced good
enough it might be easy to live with even at high RPMs. If any one can,
BMW should be able to.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> George_Bass_0(at)hotmail.com 06/27/02 06:25PM >>>
I believe that you are refering to the link below:
http://www.bmw.flyer.co.uk/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle Engines |
Actually I was thinking of
http://www.microlightsport.co.uk/Catalogue/bmwengine.htm The offer
80, 90, and 100HP versions of the BMW engine with a designed for
redrive.
I added up the price list for the 100 HP engine and came up with
something like 5500 pounds (UK money, not weight). Exchange rate has
held around 1.5/1 for a while now, which would put that BMW engine
around 8250 dollars. Not 912S money but getting there...
Worth watching...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle Engines |
That's why they sell after mufflers: so that you don't have to hear the
engine.
As far as screaming 2-strokes vs. screaming 4-strokes: the noisiest
engines
I have heard on any homebuilts in the last 5 years have been the
4-stroke S
_ _ _ _ _ _ engines popular on the gyroplanes. But they don't scream:
they
blare.
While many on the list feel better turning their 2-strokes at 5,800 rpm,
my
old 532 normally runs quietly between 5,000 and 5,400 at cruise, and
hasn't
needed to be decarboned for three years. And the plugs stay clean.
Meanwhile; paranoia runs deep...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
And now it looks like that 532 will be cruising a little faster on that
5000-5400 RPM...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
This in interesting...
http://www2.gdi.net/~steveh/rckolb.html
Kip
Firestar II
Atlanta
http://www.springeraviation.net/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Motorcycle Engines |
Richard Neilsen wrote: "The BMW engine has a bullet proof reputation on
motor cycles. My only concern was would I be happy with high rpm (screaming)
four stroke."
Richard, and List -
This was one of the features that attracted me to the Verner 4-stroke: It
developed its most useful torque at modest rpm's. Cruise range for the
Verner-1400 is 3200 to 3800 rpm (prop turning half that speed). Certainly
not a screaming 4-stroke.
Not sure what rpms the BMW turns to develop its rated power (80 hp?), but I
agree with your statement of BMW's good reputation - it's a well-balanced
(and consequently, smooth) engine.
Dennis Kirby
Mk-3, Verner, Powerfin72
New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
As I posted earlier, I had found some broken tubing inside my right
horizontal stab [Firestar II]. Today, I replaced my old horizontal
stab/elevator with one from a wrecked Firestar II. Before I made this
change, my plane would fly hands-off at about 5300 rpm; now, I must hold
back-stick for level flight, if I let go of the stick, the nose will drop to
about a 45 degree angle.
I figured there needed to be more down-ward pressure provided by the
horizontal stab, so I drilled new holes about 5/8" lower in the brackets at
the front of the stab & moved it down. After a quick test flight, I
determined that there seemed to be no improvement- it still nosedived.
After careful study, the only difference I can see between the old & new is
that the little tab on the front of the stab of the new one is riveted on in
such a way as to cause the stab to be about 3/8" lower at the front [in
reference to the boom-tube] than my old one.
Could it be that I moved the front of the stab the wrong way to keep the nose
up? Maybe, if I raised the front of the stab by 3/8", this would lift the
tail -affecting the wing's angle of attack.
I thought I knew a little about about what makes a plane fly, but this one
has me stumped.
The plans call for the front of the stab to be about 1" above the boom-tube;
mine is now only about 1/4" above it.
Anyone have any ideas?
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
This may be a silly question, but are the old and new horiz. stabs the same
size. It the replacement were smaller you may experience this.
jerryb
>
>As I posted earlier, I had found some broken tubing inside my right
>horizontal stab [Firestar II]. Today, I replaced my old horizontal
>stab/elevator with one from a wrecked Firestar II. Before I made this
>change, my plane would fly hands-off at about 5300 rpm; now, I must hold
>back-stick for level flight, if I let go of the stick, the nose will drop to
>about a 45 degree angle.
>
>I figured there needed to be more down-ward pressure provided by the
>horizontal stab, so I drilled new holes about 5/8" lower in the brackets at
>the front of the stab & moved it down. After a quick test flight, I
>determined that there seemed to be no improvement- it still nosedived.
>
>After careful study, the only difference I can see between the old & new is
>that the little tab on the front of the stab of the new one is riveted on in
>such a way as to cause the stab to be about 3/8" lower at the front [in
>reference to the boom-tube] than my old one.
>
>Could it be that I moved the front of the stab the wrong way to keep the nose
>up? Maybe, if I raised the front of the stab by 3/8", this would lift the
>tail -affecting the wing's angle of attack.
>
>I thought I knew a little about about what makes a plane fly, but this one
>has me stumped.
>
>The plans call for the front of the stab to be about 1" above the boom-tube;
>mine is now only about 1/4" above it.
>
>Anyone have any ideas?
>
>Shack
>FS II
>SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 6/29/02 1:25:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ulflyer(at)airmail.net writes:
> This may be a silly question, but are the old and new horiz. stabs the same
> size. It the replacement were smaller you may experience this.
> jerryb
>
>
Yeah, same size.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
One of the guys in our EAA chapter was thinking about building a hangar, so
it seemed like a good excuse to put together an addition to the web page
showing how I built my ratty ol' hangar.
If anything seems to not make sense, let me know, and I'll revise the page
until it does.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/Hangar.html
[DEFAULT]
BASEURL=http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/Hangar.html
[InternetShortcut]
URL=http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/Hangar.html
Modified=E023CC1C3A1FC20107
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jawmson" <jawmson(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Airplane Completion |
Fellow Kolbers,
I am proud to announce that my King Kolbra has been completed and was
inspected by the FAA this Saturday morning..
Taxi test are going good with the first flight scheduled in a few days.
I will post more as it happens.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
N49KK
King Kolbra, Jabiru 2200
http://home.attbi.com/~kolbrapilot/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airplane Completion |
----- Original Message ----- From: "jawmson" <<A HREF="mailto:jawmson(at)attbi.com">jawmson(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Airplane Completion
>
> Fellow Kolbers,
>
> I am proud to announce that my King Kolbra has been completed and was
> inspected by the FAA this Saturday morning..
>
> Taxi test are going good with the first flight scheduled in a few days.
>
> I will post more as it happens.
>
> John Williamson
> Arlington, TX
>
> N49KK
> King Kolbra, Jabiru 2200
> http://home.attbi.com/~kolbrapilot/
Hi John,
I have been keeping track of your building progress via your webpage. You
did a great job on the Kolb and I see you used the American Airline colors,
less the eagle. Good luck on your maiden flight and I hope you have the 40
hours test phase flow off by December when I'll be working in Arlington.
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
C-172 N2506U
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
I installed the optional swivel tail wheel unit today on my FireStar. Before
I needed a large parking lot to turn this thing around. Now with full rudder
and just a little brake, the swivel cuts loose and I can lock a wheel and
spin the thing around in it's own length. This swivel unit should be
standard equipment.
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
>
> I installed the optional swivel tail wheel unit today on my FireStar.
Before
> I needed a large parking lot to turn this thing around. Now with full
rudder
> and just a little brake, the swivel cuts loose and I can lock a wheel and
> spin the thing around in it's own length. This swivel unit should be
> standard equipment.
>
> Ron Payne
Hi Ron,
I just have to get me one of those swiveling tail wheels. How much does the
tail wheel weigh and did it noticeably move the CG aft during flight?
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
C-172 N2506U
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
I got the unit from Kolb. It is a simple switch out. Cut one inch off the
tail wheel rod and drill the vertical hole which now will be one inch ahead
of the old horizontal hole. The swivel housing is one inch longer than the
old housing so the wheel winds up in the same place. This is my method, not
Kolb's. All I did was taxi a little today. To hot for anything else. I
still have to run a new weight and balance check and I don't know how much
the new unit weighs. Feels like no more than a pound or so. It sure made
this thing come to life on the ground. If I have to add lead to the nose,
so be it.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, June 29, 2002 03:53:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: I Can Steer
>
> I installed the optional swivel tail wheel unit today on my FireStar.
Before
> I needed a large parking lot to turn this thing around. Now with full
rudder
> and just a little brake, the swivel cuts loose and I can lock a wheel and
> spin the thing around in it's own length. This swivel unit should be
> standard equipment.
>
> Ron Payne
Hi Ron,
I just have to get me one of those swiveling tail wheels. How much does the
tail wheel weigh and did it noticeably move the CG aft during flight?
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
C-172 N2506U
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio/GPS mount |
>
>Greetings,
>This year for summer flying I took off my full enclosure so I didn't have a
>place to mount my GPS.
>As some of you have seen from some of the picture I have posted the GPS was
>mounted on the center tube of the full enclosure.
>http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Visalia.jpg
>
>Now that I no longer have the center tube I had to come up with some place
>else to mount it. Below are some picture of what I came up with, let me
know
>what you think.
Will,
I mount my GPS on my right upper leg with an elastic band and some velcro.
The radio goes on the right leg. This keeps them with in easy reach and
the weight off the plane.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Radio/GPS mount |
In a message dated 6/29/02 5:36:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jbhart(at)ldd.net
writes:
> This keeps them with in easy reach and
> the weight off the plane.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
More details about the weight please.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio/GPS mount |
>
>In a message dated 6/29/02 5:36:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jbhart(at)ldd.net
>writes:
>
>
>> This keeps them with in easy reach and
>> the weight off the plane.
>>
>> Jack B. Hart FF004
>> Jackson, MO
>>
>
>More details about the weight please.
>
>
It has to do with Part 103. Everything that is attached to the pilot is
not part of the plane and can not be counted as part of the 254 pound empty
weight limit for a legal ultra light vehicle. This lets one use this
weight for something else, such as, brakes, strobes, etc.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pridgen" <richard.pridgen(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Fellow Kolbers,
Has anyone seen or know of a rear drive VW reduction unit built by Aero
Kinetics inc. ? I saw it in Kit Planes magazine and looks quite interesting
to me . I am familiar with Gene Smiths redrive but would rather drive it
from the flywheel end. This unit looks typical of PSRU units i.e.. chain
drive with a torsional damper built into the prop mounting and by the way
mounts to a DIEHL motor mount. Torsional vibration concerns me as well as
weight.
Any
comments,
Rick
Pridgen MKIII classic (under construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
got up[ bright and early today to paint my plane. Everything went well
untill I noticed a lot of pinholes where the paint would not stick to the
weave of the fabric. I already had silver primer down. Then I noticed the
paint wasn't drying. I am using the Endura (formerly Hipec) system. It is
the third plane I have painted with this system and I am comfortable with
it but I have never had this problem. I wish to tap into the great
collective consciousness of the group and see if anyone out there has
experience with 2 part urethane auto paint with flex agent added.
Great shine but the slow drying has invited a lot of little insects to
inspect my handy work. It has been 8 hours now and it is finally to the
tacky stage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio/GPS mount |
Jack,
What's the latest on the italian engine?
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Victor 1 - FireFly Progress Report |
>
>Jack,
>
>What's the latest on the italian engine?
>
>Gene
>
Gene,
I have three hours fifteen minutes on the engine and it has been slow
going. I believe I may be the first to fly this engine as a pusher with
the muffler mounted on top of the engine. Simonini designed the horse shoe
shaped muffler and the mounting to the engine. They only use one ball and
socket connection. The basic problem is that I cannot keep the ball and
socket connection at the exhaust port closed. At low rpm it is ok, but as
one increases rpm it opens and breaks the pipe tune. This causes EGT to
become nervous and increase and fuel consumption doubles. I have cut out
their muffler mounts and installed my own and replaced their single
pedestal mount between the engine and the muffler mount. I was able to
keep the connection sealed up to about 5000 rpm. I modified a sandwich
clamp so I could use heavier springs etc and this got me on up to 5500 rpm.
This makes the engine flyable but I would like to get it on up to 6000 rpm.
I went on up in clamp spring pressure and I cracked all my muffler mounts.
After thinking about it a little more, I believe that pipe thermal
elongation or expansion is the culprit. The more open the throttle the more
heat, the more expansion and it pushes the bell off the ball. Once again,
I have cut the mounts out from the muffler. I am going to cut the pipe and
install a second bell and ball just after the first elbow. I designed up
an aluminum ring clamp assembly that will go around the water jacket just
below the head. This will let me drill and tap mounting holes so that I
can use Lord mounts to hold the open end of the horse shoe shape. I have
purchased some 1/2 OD steel tubing so that I can make a tripod whose legs
will fixed by three bolts on the fly wheel cover to support the center of
the horse shoe shape at the front with another Lord mount. I believe this
will be my best shot. The muffler is very heavy but it does a good job and
I do not bother to turn on my ANR headset. Also the engine performs as
advertised when the pipe seal is good. At 4700 rpm, the FireFly will
cruise at 55 mph burning one gallon per hour or less. If I install
fairings on the aileron push rod tubes and the wing struts and if I can do
this and still be weight legal, I may pick up a few more mph.
If the above does not work out, I will replace the muffler and pipe with
light weight single diameter through pipe using two bells and sockets.
This pipe will be mounted low over and supported directly to the engine
mounting plate go up over the radiator back down and then along the other
side of the engine. I will have turn on my ANR head set.
I do not want to give up on this engine because it has so many pluses.
Where ever you put the throttle it is stable at that rpm. The engine
follows the throttle position changes well. There is no rpm searching. It
will idle down at 1000 rpm with no problem other than some belt slippage.
Departures are less stressful because the engine spools up without hesitation.
As I change things I take photos but I have not put up any of them up and
won't until I solve the exhaust system problems.
Thanks for asking.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Attached (hopefully) you can view the pictures of the individual brake levers
I made that attach to the brake arm, off the drum.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
I can't find the picture.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Sunday, June 30, 2002 10:38:37 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: I Can Steer
Attached (hopefully) you can view the pictures of the individual brake
levers
I made that attach to the brake arm, off the drum.
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
> got up[ bright and early today to paint my plane. Everything went well
>untill I noticed a lot of pinholes where the paint would not stick to the
>weave of the fabric. I already had silver primer down. Then I noticed the
>paint wasn't drying. I am using the Endura (formerly Hipec) system. It is
>the third plane I have painted with this system and I am comfortable with
>it but I have never had this problem. I wish to tap into the great
>collective consciousness of the group and see if anyone out there has
>experience with 2 part urethane auto paint with flex agent added.
> Great shine but the slow drying has invited a lot of little insects to
>inspect my handy work. It has been 8 hours now and it is finally to the
>tacky stage.
Woody:
I have painted auto Fascias (plastic bumper covers) at work with a 2 part
acrylic enamel with a flex agent added- It needed to be baked for it to cure
at 180 degrees. Hope you have the right paint. Silicone, oil, or certain
contaminants will make this paint literally crawl off the surface-- big
mess-- and it didn't fill pin holes, it would just make them bigger. Good
luck!
Darren, FS1, Cent. MI.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Reference your pictures.
You can't attach them to this e-mail message, must be sent to matronics
photo address.
Jimmy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
This is a slightly newer version of the redrive BigLar is using. Kind of
surprised he didn't respond. Julian Warren is building a MKIII with this
newer version of the redrive. I got the engineering drawings from Aero
Kinetics and Julian sent me photos of his unit. I came close to using
this reduction drive and yes I prefer the drive off the flywheel end of
the engine. I had a few concerns: The reduction drive is heavier than
the Gene Smith unit (I don't remember 8-10 lbs?). The drive has a SAE1
prop flange and Power Fin didn't make a SAE1 Hub for their prop. The
reduction drive requires a oil pressure feed and return line to the
engine. The DIEHL alternator can't be used. The redrive is delivered as
a kit. The Gene Smith redrive has a proven history the new Aero Kinetics
hadn't flown yet
We need an update from Julian Warren. Julian are you still out there?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> richard.pridgen(at)worldnet.att.net 01/01/97 01:15AM >>>
Fellow Kolbers,
Has anyone seen or know of a rear drive VW reduction unit built by
Aero
Kinetics inc. ? I saw it in Kit Planes magazine and looks quite
interesting
to me . I am familiar with Gene Smiths redrive but would rather drive
it
from the flywheel end. This unit looks typical of PSRU units i.e..
chain
drive with a torsional damper built into the prop mounting and by the
way
mounts to a DIEHL motor mount. Torsional vibration concerns me as well
as
weight.
Any
comments,
Rick
Pridgen MKIII classic (under construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
I wonder how happy those guys that put Jabiru's on their Mark III 's
are? I think that will be my engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
I'm very happy with mine and would do it again.=0D
Dallas Shepherd=0D
Norfork, Arkansas=0D
Mark 3/2200jabiru=0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
Date: Monday, July 01, 2002 01:00:39 PM=0D
Subject: Kolb-List: Jabiru engines=0D
=0D
=0D
I wonder how happy those guys that put Jabiru's on their Mark III 's=0D
are? I think that will be my engine.=0D
=0D
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
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=0D
=0D
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=2E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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru engines
Thanks Dallas,
I have made my mind up to go with that engine on my Mark 3 also.
What type and size prop are you using? Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
> > got up[ bright and early today to paint my plane. Everything went well
> >untill I noticed a lot of pinholes where the paint would not stick to the
> >weave of the fabric. I already had silver primer down. Then I noticed the
> >paint wasn't drying. I am using the Endura (formerly Hipec) system. It is
> >the third plane I have painted with this system and I am comfortable with
> >it but I have never had this problem. I wish to tap into the great
> >collective consciousness of the group and see if anyone out there has
> >experience with 2 part urethane auto paint with flex agent added.
> > Great shine but the slow drying has invited a lot of little insects to
> >inspect my handy work. It has been 8 hours now and it is finally to the
> >tacky stage.
>
>Woody:
> I have painted auto Fascias (plastic bumper covers) at work with a 2 part
>acrylic enamel with a flex agent added- It needed to be baked for it to cure
>at 180 degrees. Hope you have the right paint. Silicone, oil, or certain
>contaminants will make this paint literally crawl off the surface-- big
>mess-- and it didn't fill pin holes, it would just make them bigger. Good
>luck!
>Darren, FS1, Cent. MI.
I have used this system before with out problems. Sat. I wet sanded
the whole thing and watched the sheeting action of the water to make sure I
did not miss anywhere. I even let it bake in the hot Canadian sun all day
after painting. It was almost bumping 30 degrees yesterday. Today is a
holiday here so I am unable to get ahold of anyone until tomorrow but will
contact the factory as soon as possible to find out what happened. worse
comes to worse I will use latex house paint to finish it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
| Subject: | best price for 447? |
Hi all,
I am getting a tapping sound when the engine is running about 5000 rpms.
As I turn over the prop by hand one cylinder will make a tink sound if
a wiggle the prop back and forth just as it is getting compression. I
suspect the connecting rod bearing is going. I don't really want to
drop $700 on a new crankshaft to put into an old engine so I am looking
into getting a 447. Anyone know of a 447 CDI for sale new or with very
low time on it? I already have a new exhaust can so I will not need
that. I'm going to need a B box as well, 2.58 to 1.
By the way, we just flew down to the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome this
weekend and watched the show. http://www.oldrhinebeck.org/ This is the
most amazing place. You all should go! They have the oldest flying
airplane in the country and we watched it crow hop twice down the
runway. Check out the web site. We had smooth air down and back which
is pretty good for a hot sunny day.
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar
Schenectady, NY
http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
I'm using a Warp Drive 58 inch prop. Have been told by Pete at Jabiru in
Wisconsin=0D
who has a jabiru on his Titan that the sensenich gets more speed and is
quieter. Pete =0D
use to have a Kolb also. I would like to try the sensenich, but a new one
is $600=0D
and that isn't in the books right now. Pete said he had a used one with
20
hours=0D
coming into his place for $500. usjabiru(at)athenet.net My top ground speed=0D
using gps has been 86mph. Tests on the Sonex airplane by Sonex ltd, had
the=0D
sensenich on top of three props tested. With the jabiru 2200 and sensenich
prop=0D
they cruised over 120 mph. I'd like to go that fast and land at the same
speed as=0D
my Mark 3.=0D
Dallas =0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
Date: Monday, July 01, 2002 05:26:21 PM=0D
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru engines=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
----- Original Message -----=0D
From: "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net>=0D
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru engines=0D
=0D
Thanks Dallas,=0D
I have made my mind up to go with that engine on my Mark 3 also.=0D
What type and size prop are you using? Kirk=0D
=0D
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
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=
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=2E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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)bailinair.com> |
How about parts availability for this engine, that would be my primary
concern.
Noel
Nashua, NH
MK III
http://www.bailinair.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Dallas Shepherd
> Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 2:18 AM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru engines
>
>
>
>
> I'm using a Warp Drive 58 inch prop. Have been told by Pete
> at Jabiru in
> Wisconsin=0D
> who has a jabiru on his Titan that the sensenich gets more
> speed and is
> quieter. Pete =0D
> use to have a Kolb also. I would like to try the sensenich,
> but a new on> e
> is $600=0D
> and that isn't in the books right now. Pete said he had a
> used one with
> 20
> hours=0D
> coming into his place for $500. usjabiru(at)athenet.net My
> top ground spe> ed=0D
> using gps has been 86mph. Tests on the Sonex airplane by
> Sonex ltd, had
> the=0D
> sensenich on top of three props tested. With the jabiru 2200
> and sensenic> h
> prop=0D
> they cruised over 120 mph. I'd like to go that fast and land
> at the same
> speed as=0D
> my Mark 3.=0D
> Dallas =0D
> =0D
> -------Original Message-------=0D
> =0D
> From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
> Date: Monday, July 01, 2002 05:26:21 PM=0D
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru engines=0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> ----- Original Message -----=0D
> From: "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net>=0D
> To: =0D
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru engines=0D
> =0D
> Thanks Dallas,=0D
> I have made my mind up to go with that engine on my Mark 3 also.=0D
> What type and size prop are you using? Kirk=0D
> =0D
> =0D
>
> =0D
>
> =0D
>
> =0D
>
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =2E
> R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAA
> AAAAAAAAAAAAAA
> AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSa
> udJuudrxlEKI6B
> URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwH
> oPqm3366VKyeRt
> E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YC
> iOZGmeaAQAIfkE
> CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9g
> rQhXGAhsDBUJgZ
> AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAA
> AAFAAPAAAEEhDJ
> Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw
> /GJBSF55ECBQDj
> 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBK
> YWMpd0CBEBACH5
> BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs>
>
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
| Subject: | Re: wing holders in trailer |
07/02/2002 01:05:28 AM
Listers:
I have always left the wings on my Mrk III when trailering, but I am
planning a long distance trip from California to Utah this fall, and am
considering separating the wings from the plane for the trip. There is
probably a million ways to skin this cat, but thought I might get a few new
ideas from you all about how to best mount the wings in the enclosed
trailer. Anybody?
regards,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
07/02/2002 01:12:09 AM
Dave et al:
Saw your GPS mount picture. The RAM mount makes things easy doesnt it? I
also use the RAM mount for my GPS, but use the suction cup fitting to mount
it on the right side of my windshield, and angle it so it faces back toward
me. It really doesnt obscure the view much, and its nice to have it up
near eye level so you dont have to look down at it. Kind of a poor mans
heads up display I guess. Anyway, the suction cup adaptor is fairly cheap
- might be worth a try.
regards,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dixieshack(at)webtv.net (Mike and Dixie Shackelford) |
Erich, I've heard good reports from this method:
Make pillowcases fom cheap polytarps, the kind with grommets on the
edges. Insert the wings and hang them leading edge down with the flat
side toward the wall of the trailer so that the polytarp is carrying the
wing weight. Bungee the whole thing to the wall to prevent movement and
banging around from road shock. I'm presently building an enclosed
trailer copied from Richard Swiderski's trailer.......his trailer is
beautiful. I think I'll try the polytarp method.
Using this method protects the wing, distributes the load evenly, and
doesn't require anything permanent in the trailer to intrude on space on
bang bald heads into (mine), and best of all, can be insalled in just a
few minutes.
Mike
FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing holders in trailer |
I hang my wings on the trailer walls when I travel.
Check the photos at
homepage.mac.com/gene1930
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati
Firefly 447 102 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
For those of you with Jabiru engines... Do any of you have a clutch
installed? If so, what brand, where'd'ja get it, and how's it
working? Since it's direct-drive, was there anything special about the
installation?
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TBarry" <tbarrysprint(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tail Wheel Assembly |
Hello to All,
I am new to this site and I am dire need of help. I bought a early 90's
Kolb Firestar KXP last year. I have been trailering it to and from an
airport about 40 miles away. The plane was resting on the tail wheel for
these trips. Anyway, here is my problem: There is a fiberglass or carbon
fiber rod that appears to be attached inside a metal tube that is
attached to the boom tube on one end and the tail wheel assembly on the
other end. This tail wheel rod has become delaminated and thusly
unusable. Any suggestions on how I go about fixing this problem? I am
not the builder nor would I consider myself a builder(I just like to
fly).
Thank-you in advance,
TBarry
Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Assembly |
Dear TB:
I have experienced the same thing. I now use a support under the tail boom
during storage. I have a 1992 model Firestar KXP with the fiberglass tail
rod. I found a replacement online from a ham radio antenna supply store.
The other alternative is to by the new style aluminum rod from:
tnkolbaircraft.com
Either way, you will have to get the old one out to put in the replacement.
I cut the damaged rod off flush and then used progressively larger drill bits
to drill out all of the fiberglass. If you use reasonable care you won't
have to worry about damaging the tube as the fiberglass is much softer than
4130 chromemoly. When you get to the largest bit, take your time and make
sure it stays straight and centered.
If you go with fiberglass again, make sure everything is very clean and
install the new rod with J-B Weld epoxy. If you get the aluminum rod (which
I would recommend) follow TNKolb's instructions or get help from the many
experts on this list who have experience with the aluminum version.
Hope this helps and enjoy your new toy :-)
Roger in Ashland, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Coggins, Josh, NPONS" <joshcoggins(at)att.com> |
Dallas,
Everything that I have heard about the Jabiru engine states that composite
props can't be used. Is there a WARP Drive prop that can be used on the Jabiru?
Seems like the direct drive coupled with the power pulses created by the
engine were cracking composite props. Most, if not all, of the Jabiru engine
owners that I have corresponded with use a wood prop.
Respectfully,
Josh Coggins
-----Original Message-----
From: Dallas Shepherd [mailto:cen23954(at)centurytel.net]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru engines
I'm using a Warp Drive 58 inch prop. Have been told by Pete at Jabiru in
Wisconsin=0D
who has a jabiru on his Titan that the sensenich gets more speed and is
quieter. Pete =0D
use to have a Kolb also. I would like to try the sensenich, but a new one
is $600=0D
and that isn't in the books right now. Pete said he had a used one with
20
hours=0D
coming into his place for $500. usjabiru(at)athenet.net My top ground speed=0D
using gps has been 86mph. Tests on the Sonex airplane by Sonex ltd, had
the=0D
sensenich on top of three props tested. With the jabiru 2200 and sensenich
prop=0D
they cruised over 120 mph. I'd like to go that fast and land at the same
speed as=0D
my Mark 3.=0D
Dallas =0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
Date: Monday, July 01, 2002 05:26:21 PM=0D
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru engines=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
----- Original Message -----=0D
From: "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net>=0D
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabiru engines=0D
=0D
Thanks Dallas,=0D
I have made my mind up to go with that engine on my Mark 3 also.=0D
What type and size prop are you using? Kirk=0D
=0D
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=2E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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce E Harrison <bharrison(at)juno.com> |
Howard:
Our FSII had the same trim issue. I solved it by moving the brackets at
the front of the stab down lower on the boom tube. In effect, the front
of the stab was now level with the top of the boom tube. It cured our
problem and the pitch trim is now neutral.
It still is puzzling why your trim changed when you didn't change the
angle of attack of any part of the empennage.
BTW, was the Trenton FlyIn rescheduled?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Now...........that there is a job of work. Beautiful.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Micro Kolb
>
> This in interesting...
>
> http://www2.gdi.net/~steveh/rckolb.html
>
> Kip
> Firestar II
> Atlanta
> http://www.springeraviation.net/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I recently "upgraded" to Windows XP, and Earthlink DSL...........(anything
to get rid of that S.O.B. msn, and constant lock-ups on the
computer)..............and have been going thru a nightmare since last week.
Still no DSL, only dial up, and was finally able - 1/2 hour ago - to access
my email, after almost a week. Feel like I've been blind. Some upgrade.
The Aero Kinetics redrive, as supplied to Julian, is a different critter
than mine. I haven't assembled mine yet, with the newer, heavier duty
parts, and probably won't until September, or later............but it does
look good. The newer version should address the problems I had, since it
incorporates a vibration damper. Vamoose is shelved for
now...........it's 110 in the shade out there, and what little time can be
spent outside is being spent preparing the truck and camper for a 5 week
vacation, starting in 3 weeks.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: VW redrive
>
> This is a slightly newer version of the redrive BigLar is using. Kind of
> surprised he didn't respond. Julian Warren is building a MKIII with this
> newer version of the redrive. I got the engineering drawings from Aero
> Kinetics and Julian sent me photos of his unit. I came close to using
> this reduction drive and yes I prefer the drive off the flywheel end of
> the engine. I had a few concerns: The reduction drive is heavier than
> the Gene Smith unit (I don't remember 8-10 lbs?). The drive has a SAE1
> prop flange and Power Fin didn't make a SAE1 Hub for their prop. The
> reduction drive requires a oil pressure feed and return line to the
> engine. The DIEHL alternator can't be used. The redrive is delivered as
> a kit. The Gene Smith redrive has a proven history the new Aero Kinetics
> hadn't flown yet
>
> We need an update from Julian Warren. Julian are you still out there?
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
> >>> richard.pridgen(at)worldnet.att.net 01/01/97 01:15AM >>>
>
>
> Fellow Kolbers,
> Has anyone seen or know of a rear drive VW reduction unit built by
> Aero
> Kinetics inc. ? I saw it in Kit Planes magazine and looks quite
> interesting
> to me . I am familiar with Gene Smiths redrive but would rather drive
> it
> from the flywheel end. This unit looks typical of PSRU units i.e..
> chain
> drive with a torsional damper built into the prop mounting and by the
> way
> mounts to a DIEHL motor mount. Torsional vibration concerns me as well
> as
> weight.
>
> Any
> comments,
> Rick
> Pridgen MKIII classic (under construction)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd O'Dell" <wander10(at)infi.net> |
Hello Kolbers,
I am building a Firestar II with a 503 Rotax engine. I have no
experience with Rotax engines. I have decided to install the oil
injection system. My concern is the initial start up. It will take
time for the oil injection system to prime and the engine will be
running with out oil. Should I pre-mix the first tank of fuel, and if
so at what ratio? I have looked in the information I have on Rotax
engines and find nothing concerning this subject. I am getting close to
first start up.
Thanks for any help! Lloyd O'Dell Central Florida
wander10(at)infi.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Assembly |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Hello to All,
I am new to this site and I am dire need of help. I bought a early 90's
Kolb Firestar KXP last year. I have been trailering it to and from an
airport about 40 miles away. The plane was resting on the tail wheel for
these trips. Anyway, here is my problem: There is a fiberglass or carbon
fiber rod that appears to be attached inside a metal tube that is
attached to the boom tube on one end and the tail wheel assembly on the
other end. This tail wheel rod has become delaminated and thusly
unusable. Any suggestions on how I go about fixing this problem? I am
not the builder nor would I consider myself a builder(I just like to
fly).
Thank-you in advance,
TBarry
Arizona
The fiberglass rod can also be removed with a propane torch, carefully heating
the epoxy and removing the rod with a vise grips. This is the way I did mine many
years ago. The 2nd one has been holding about 13 years without a problem using
epoxy. If the lower fin gets scorched, you can replace and paint it easily
enough, but it can be done without burning anything.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
| Subject: | VW redrive Udate |
Sunday night I flew with my 1st passenger. I had switched to the new
(heaver) full swivel tail wheel after my last salt bag test flight and
it helped but I will need to add more weight to the tail. I found I had
to hold the stick almost all the way back on full power climb, power off
landing was normal. My passenger weighed 165lbs and this appears to be
the limit with the present configuration. My weight and balance figures
show I'm at the forward limit with a 200 lb. passenger and will be
40lbs. over the 1000 lb. gross weight limit. I figure my higher thrust
line is some of the problem but part of the problem is the placement of
the battery in the nose cone.
I have also found I need a bit more thrust. I planning to repitch my
prop so that my take off RPMs will increase to some were between
3800-4000 RPMs. Currently I seeing 3500 static and 3600 in climb out.
The Gene Smith reduction drive manual recommends that the takeoff RPMs
be between 3600 - 4000 RPMs. My problem is I really like seeing a 75MPH
cruise at 3400 RPMs at 50-60% power. It appears I will need to repitch
my prop for solo cross country flying. It seems like I saw a in flight
adjustable pitch prop hub that uses power fin blades at Oshkosh last
year does anyone know what their name is?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
I'm sure I will get flamed for this but.... When I talked to the guys a
New Kolb last year they indicated they were disappointed with the Jabiru
engine. They felt they needed to build a lighter version of the MKIII
for this engine.
They said they thought it was a good engine just kind of low on thrust.
I also had a discussion with a prop manufacture that said "the person
that designed that engine just doesn't understand props". It would seem
the Jabiru, like my VW it needs a reduction drive to compete with the
reduction drive Rotax.
my $.01 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> joshcoggins(at)att.com 07/02/02 07:00PM >>>
Dallas,
Everything that I have heard about the Jabiru engine states
that composite props can't be used. Is there a WARP Drive prop that can
be used on the Jabiru? Seems like the direct drive coupled with the
power pulses created by the engine were cracking composite props. Most,
if not all, of the Jabiru engine owners
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
It would be interesting to see some performance figures with the Jabiru on
the Mark 3. Of course there is always the Jabiru 6 cylinder which is fairly
close to the 912 in weight and price. I seen that engine perform on a Titan
and it was a rocket. I like the air cooling over liquid for simplicity . I
believe the new Jabiru's are rated at 2000 hrs now also. What ever that's
worth. Another aspect of the Jabiru I like is that it's built in a very
stable country..........Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Some values taken from horse power torque curves for the Jabiru
2200/3300 engines.
2200 engine at 2500rpm.....65hp/ 135ft/lbs
2900rpm.....73hp/ 133ft/lbs
3300 engine at 2650rpm.....105hp/ 200ft/lbs
These are rpm ranges in line with standard aircraft engines.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: VW redrive Update |
You might try adjusting your flaps to raise the flap trailing edges a bit.
Just a bit of reflex in the flaps will make a big difference in stick
pressure on climbout. Obviously you need to have the weight & balance
right, but retrimming the flaps a hair will also help a bit. Or you can
leave the flaps alone and reflex the ailerons a bit. Or both. Play with it,
the differences are quickly noticable, figure out what you like, and what
works the best.
Something else that makes a big difference is maximizing airflow into the
lower half of the prop arc. Some of my various mods the last couple years
show a dramatic difference in climbout depending whether or not the bottom
half of the prop arc is getting as much airflow into it as the top half, -
which also affects your dynamic thrust line, - which also affects stick
pressure.
Something that is surprising about the MKIII the first time you take a
passenger, is the amount of back stick pressure required. Make sure that
your elevator trim control has the springs slack at the most forward
position, and begins to take up the spring slack as soon as you start
moving it back. On mine, with a 165 pound passenger, I am about 3 notches
from full up trim on takeoff. With anybody heavier, I am at full up trim at
take off. Hope that helps.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Sunday night I flew with my 1st passenger. I had switched to the new
>(heaver) full swivel tail wheel after my last salt bag test flight and
>it helped but I will need to add more weight to the tail. I found I had
>to hold the stick almost all the way back on full power climb, power off
>landing was normal. My passenger weighed 165lbs and this appears to be
>the limit with the present configuration. My weight and balance figures
>show I'm at the forward limit with a 200 lb. passenger and will be
>40lbs. over the 1000 lb. gross weight limit. I figure my higher thrust
>line is some of the problem but part of the problem is the placement of
>the battery in the nose cone.
>
>I have also found I need a bit more thrust. I planning to repitch my
>prop so that my take off RPMs will increase to some were between
>3800-4000 RPMs. Currently I seeing 3500 static and 3600 in climb out.
>The Gene Smith reduction drive manual recommends that the takeoff RPMs
>be between 3600 - 4000 RPMs. My problem is I really like seeing a 75MPH
>cruise at 3400 RPMs at 50-60% power. It appears I will need to repitch
>my prop for solo cross country flying. It seems like I saw a in flight
>adjustable pitch prop hub that uses power fin blades at Oshkosh last
>year does anyone know what their name is?
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: VW redrive Update |
Thanks Richard
From the start my plane was built with permanent full enclosure. You
may have hit on the source of a lot of my problems. I wonder if I'm
blocking or disrupting the air flow to the lower half of the prop arc.
As for a fix? I wonder if I built a faring with flow fences a bit like
you put on your plane would help. I have been planning to put VG at the
wide part of my doors to get the airflow more under control. In between
flying this week end I guess I need to work on some of these things.
Also, the trim spring sounds like it about right and I will try
reflexing the flaps and ailerons but they seem about right.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> richard(at)bcchapel.org 07/03/02 10:32AM >>>
You might try adjusting your flaps to raise the flap trailing edges a
bit.
Just a bit of reflex in the flaps will make a big difference in stick
pressure on climbout. Obviously you need to have the weight & balance
right, but retrimming the flaps a hair will also help a bit. Or you
can
leave the flaps alone and reflex the ailerons a bit. Or both. Play with
it,
the differences are quickly noticable, figure out what you like, and
what
works the best.
Something else that makes a big difference is maximizing airflow into
the
lower half of the prop arc. Some of my various mods the last couple
years
show a dramatic difference in climbout depending whether or not the
bottom
half of the prop arc is getting as much airflow into it as the top
half, -
which also affects your dynamic thrust line, - which also affects
stick
pressure.
Something that is surprising about the MKIII the first time you take a
passenger, is the amount of back stick pressure required. Make sure
that
your elevator trim control has the springs slack at the most forward
position, and begins to take up the spring slack as soon as you start
moving it back. On mine, with a 165 pound passenger, I am about 3
notches
from full up trim on takeoff. With anybody heavier, I am at full up
trim at
take off. Hope that helps.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
The 912 (80 hp) for instance running at 5000 RPM (cruise), is spinning
the prop at 2203 rpm (2.27 ratio). Spinning a 70" prop at that rpm gives
you a tip speed of 458 MPH (or .61 mach). Even at 5500 rpm the prop
tips are going 503 mph (or .68 mach) Now for those who have never heard
this, the prop tips should never go past around .75 to .8 mach because
when you factor in forward motion of the propeller through the air then
the tips are going supersonic, and that means that they make NOISE
instead of THRUST... Another rule of thumb is that large slow turning
propellers are better for slow aircraft (i.e. draggy aircraft, Kolb,
Piper Cub, etc.) and short, fast turning propellers are better for fast,
clean aircraft (i.e. Sonex, Sonerais, V-Witts, etc.) This is kind of
analogous to the right gear in your car transmission. Looking at our
Kolbs for instance, the propeller is running in disturbed air all the
time. Not as bad on a Slingshot or maybe even the Kolbra, but certainly
for the Mark 3, (just ask Mr. Pike who just did some great mods to clean
up the airflow into the prop) Now think about it as peaking around a
corner. If the prop is trying to peak around the corner of the
disturbed air to find good clean air to push backwards but it's only
56-58" long then it is not getting much propeller blade out into the
"good" air Now if the propeller is 70" or whatever then it is getting a
bigger "bite" into the good, clean air. Also the actual prop "disk" (or
area of the circular column of air that is being pushed back by the
prop) is bigger, hence more efficient)
Now look at the numbers for a 80HP Jabiru. 65hp at 2500 RPM was given
earlier, and this would (at least in reference to tip speeds) was allow
a 68-70" prop. But at only 65 hp at that rpm the prop would have to
have a pretty "flat" pitch or it wouldn't be able to turn it to that
RPM. If you extrapolate the numbers that were given then the 80hp
figure is probably somewhere around 3300 rpm (which is about where the
Sonex guys run them) The propeller would have to be limited to 51" long
to maintain the same tip speed as an 80hp 912. Obviously that is
practically a lawn mower blade and certainly not a decent size prop, so
a compromise between prop tip speed and pitch has to be made. I believe
most Jabiru guys are turning 58"-60" props. (The ones I know of are on
Titans, which would be cleaner airframes than our Kolbs for sure.)
Long post to say this, the Jabiru is a beautifully simple and simply
beautiful engine. It will pay off in a simple engine installation that
will be easy on the time to install, and easy(er) on the pocketbook than
a 912. Buuuuuttttt, don't expect better prop efficiency/thrust (i.e.
performance) out of the shorter prop on our draggy airframes...it's like
trying to drive up a steep hill in 5th gear...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
Blade tip spd (mph)=eng rpm divided by redrive ratio times prop dia,
divided
by 336
= [(eng spd/redrive ratio) x (prop dia)]/336
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 7/2/02 8:32:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bharrison(at)juno.com writes:
> BTW, was the Trenton FlyIn rescheduled?
>
>
>
No, we had the fly-in. Only 3 craft flew in, but we had a nice event anyway.
Shack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
> Vamoose is shelved for
>now...........it's 110 in the shade out there, and what little time can be
>spent outside is being spent preparing the truck and camper for a 5 week
>vacation, starting in 3 weeks.
Thats good news Lar. My little plane should be flying before yours. I
knew I would beat you into the air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Clean air=more bite |
If I spin a given prop at a given rpm on a Kolb, the airflow over under
around and through the kolb remains a constant. ( Same kolb, same prop,
same rpm, different power sources.) It could be an electric motor though
far to heavy but a much cleaner airflow around it as most are quite
round. It could be a 582 rotax with exhaust and radiators hanging all
over it. Same for a 912 rotax. Quite disturbing to air flow . Or it
could be a Jabiru which is much cleaner as far as air flow around and
through it. The remaining factor would be torque/horsepower. Usable
horsepower. Of course the 912 has the edge there due to gear reduction.
Now if we look at price the Jabiru has the edge. Further, if we look at
the Jabiru 3300 the price is right in line with the 912 with over 100
usable hp in the rpm range we consider the best for a kolb propeller. So
to make a fair comparison with the 912 or 914 for that matter, we pick
an engine in their price ranges. This would be the Jabiru 3300. 6
cylinder. Apples and apples I think. A very competitive engine line. If
they should come up with a gear reduction unit for the Jabiru? Oh boy!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Shack, Do they weigh the same?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: VW redrive Update |
As far as your permanent enclosure blocking the lower part of the prop arc:
compare the shape of your enclosure to the well known shape of John Hauck's
MKIII - since his obviously works well, if yours is quite similar to it,
then you ought to be OK.
My thoughts on the vortex generators are that they help. Before I modified
my fuselage, I had good airflow to the lower half of the prop arc because
of the cut off top of the windshield, and top speed was 88. Now the top
speed is 93, even though the previous path for the airflow is now occupied
by fuselage. The only other factor is the vortex generators, so the speed
increase must be due to them.
I used the size and shape of vortex generators described by Howard
Shackleford, made them out of 1/16" thick Lexan because it was easy to work
with. They sit just forward of the fuselage member that forms the widest
section. I need to add one more to the lower part of the fuselage, but
haven't decided yet how to attach it.
Just had an idea: if I had the standard shaped windshield to gap seal
situation, and I was going to do flow fences, I think I would make fences
that attached only to the lower side of the wing, aligned with the airflow,
and about 6" or 8" out from the side of the fuselage. Probably stick down
below the wing about 6", and extend past the widest cross section of the
fuselage several inches, so that any air squirting out sideways from around
the windshield/wing junction was blended straight back. You ought to be
able to make up some temporary ones and duct tape them to the bottom of the
wing and see what happens.
If nothing happens, take them off and throw them away. If the duct tape
comes loose and they go into the prop, post some pictures, so that the rest
of us will know what not to do...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>>From the start my plane was built with permanent full enclosure. You
>may have hit on the source of a lot of my problems. I wonder if I'm
>blocking or disrupting the air flow to the lower half of the prop arc.
>As for a fix? I wonder if I built a faring with flow fences a bit like
>you put on your plane would help. I have been planning to put VG at the
>wide part of my doors to get the airflow more under control. In between
>flying this week end I guess I need to work on some of these things.
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 7/3/02 10:19:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ZepRep251(at)aol.com writes:
> Shack, Do they weigh the same?
>
>
>
Within a couple ounces.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Phalse Pfirewerks |
Fireworks--good in Virginia and other sites that don't allow real
werks.
This is really cool. When you see the small black screen, click
the mouse as fast as you can,
and fireworks will appear, the faster you click in the box, the
"cooler" it looks. Also, click over
the entire area within the box.The higher you click on the
screen, the higher the
fireworks will go
http://www1.jawink.ne.jp/koji-y/java/jhanabie.htm
HAVE A SAFE 4TH OF JULY Y'ALL!!!!
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd O'Dell" <wander10(at)infi.net> |
| Subject: | oil injection breakin |
Hello Kolbers,
I want to say thanks to all responses I received on the oil
injection and break in on my new 503 Rotax.
I evaluated the information and decided to use a combination of the
suggestions.
Based on what I learned, I will pre-mix the first tank of fuel at
100 to 1. Purge the lines as best I can. Set the marks so they are
aligned at idle, for the first hour of running. Start the engine and
manually lift the arm for a few seconds to make sure the oil enters the
supply lines. After the first hour of operation and if the temperatures
are in the operating range, readjust the marks so they align at 3,000
RPM to provide a 70 to 1 ratio below 3,000 RPM and 50 to 1 above 3,000
RPM.
Thanks again, Lloyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Aerodynamics 101? Still learning... |
After satisfactorily sorting out some of the airflow changes on my MKII
these last two weeks, tried something else today: I removed the rear
windows behind the doors. For those of you who have not looked at the web
page, the new doors I am using now are narrower than the originals, and
there are small removable panels (windows) between the rear edge of the
doors and the rear fuselage, the part at the rear of the doors.
Went flying and things were not good. It felt as if the vertical fin was
not really doing all that much, sort of a vague yawing from side to side.
If you gave it rudder, it responded OK, but when trying to just fly
straight ahead, it felt as if the airflow was working down one side of the
fuselage, and then the other, and sort of yawing slightly and slowly
according to which ever side happened to be creating the most burbles.
Along with that, the prop was intermittently making little cavitation
noises. It was not scary, but not good either. It just felt inefficient and
clunky. (Anybody on the list ever fly a Vector? Yeah, kind of like that...)
Anyway, landed and put the back windows back in and everything felt normal
again, control authority returned. I guess if I want to fly this summer
with the back side windows out, I need to figure out a way to put the
original wide doors back on. I think the original wider doors kept the
airflow from flirting with the sharp back corner edge of the cockpit, and
then bouncing off to create problems. My new narrower doors allow the
airflow to interact with that sharp edge at the rear of the cockpit and
then do odd things when those back windows are out.
Richard PIke
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Phalse Pfirewerks |
Beautiful, Bob............phooey on Kolb related, I forwarded it on to my
non-Kolb friends. Many thanks.............. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob n" <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Phalse Pfirewerks
>
> Fireworks--good in Virginia and other sites that don't allow real
> werks.
>
> This is really cool. When you see the small black screen, click
> the mouse as fast as you can,
> and fireworks will appear, the faster you click in the box, the
> "cooler" it looks. Also, click over
> the entire area within the box.The higher you click on the
> screen, the higher the
> fireworks will go
>
>
> http://www1.jawink.ne.jp/koji-y/java/jhanabie.htm
> HAVE A SAFE 4TH OF JULY Y'ALL!!!!
>
> Bob N.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | Clean air=more bite |
If I spin a given prop at a given rpm on a Kolb, the airflow over under
around and through the kolb remains a constant. ( Same kolb, same prop,
same rpm, different power sources.) It could be an electric motor though
far to heavy but a much cleaner airflow around it as most are quite
round. It could be a 582 rotax with exhaust and radiators hanging all
over it. Same for a 912 rotax. Quite disturbing to air flow . Or it
could be a Jabiru which is much cleaner as far as air flow around and
through it. The remaining factor would be torque/horsepower. Usable
horsepower. Of course the 912 has the edge there due to gear reduction.
Now if we look at price the Jabiru has the edge. Further, if we look at
the Jabiru 3300 the price is right in line with the 912 with over 100
usable hp in the rpm range we consider the best for a kolb propeller. So
to make a fair comparison with the 912 or 914 for that matter, we pick
an engine in their price ranges. This would be the Jabiru 3300. 6
cylinder. Apples and apples I think. A very competitive engine line. If
they should come up with a gear reduction unit for the Jabiru? Oh boy!
Amen... I love every thing about the Jabiru...except maybe the push-rod
valves...they need a couple of adjustments when there new...but that's
not a big deal either. Yes the 3300 would be a pretty even comparison I
think against a 912. Except that it is $11500 just for the engine...but
when you add the radiators and such to the 912S price it would work out
about even...
Jeremy "Not wanting to rain on anyone's Jabiru dreams"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Assembly |
TBarry,
I replaced the fiberglass rod on my original Firestar with an aluminum
one from Kolb. I think that it is the same as is currently used on the
Firestar I/II. I was glad to be able to update to aluminum so easily.
John Jung
TBarry wrote:
>
> This tail wheel rod has become delaminated and thusly
>unusable.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
> Amen... I love every thing about the Jabiru...except maybe the push-rod
> valves...they need a couple of adjustments when there new...but that's
> not a big deal either. Yes the 3300 would be a pretty even comparison I
> think against a 912. Except that it is $11500 just for the engine...but
> when you add the radiators and such to the 912S price it would work out
> about even...
>
> Jeremy "Not wanting to rain on anyone's Jabiru dreams"
Another interesting comparison between the 912/914 Rotax and the Jabby
3300. At 80 hp the Jabby is just into a gallop while the 912 at 80 hp is
balls to the wall. Of course the 914 has the turbo which takes the hp up
closer to the Jabby but the price higher. On the negative side the 3300
Jabby is a bit heavier and would probably require some mods to the cage to
mount it. At present I plan on a belt reduction for the Jabby 2200 and some
cage mods. I think with the reduction drive I can then expand my propeller
options and a couple of other pet ideas I have about air flow.
................ Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: VW redrive Update |
Thanks again Richard
Yes my plane is shaped very close to John Hauck's. I live in Michigan
and a fully enclosed airplane makes a lot of sense at least 9 months of
the year.
I made some VGs yesterday that I'm going to put on my doors this
weekend.
I went back and reread the post from Topher and based on what I think
he is saying I will build two flow fences about even with the sides of
the fuselage that will start 4-5 inches in front to the leading edge of
the wing and extend 1-2 inches back beyond the leading edge above and
below. I will then put a piece of lexan between the flow fences that
will smooth the flow up over the wing. The intent is to force the air
that normally gets trapped under the gap seal up over the wing instead
of flowing around the windshield and into the area were the wing and
fuselage meet. Any comments before I build this? Topher?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> richard(at)bcchapel.org 07/03/02 11:49PM >>>
As far as your permanent enclosure blocking the lower part of the prop
arc:
compare the shape of your enclosure to the well known shape of John
Hauck's
MKIII - since his obviously works well, if yours is quite similar to
it,
then you ought to be OK.
My thoughts on the vortex generators are that they help. Before I
modified
my fuselage, I had good airflow to the lower half of the prop arc
because
of the cut off top of the windshield, and top speed was 88. Now the
top
speed is 93, even though the previous path for the airflow is now
occupied
by fuselage. The only other factor is the vortex generators, so the
speed
increase must be due to them.
I used the size and shape of vortex generators described by Howard
Shackleford, made them out of 1/16" thick Lexan because it was easy to
work
with. They sit just forward of the fuselage member that forms the
widest
section. I need to add one more to the lower part of the fuselage, but
haven't decided yet how to attach it.
Just had an idea: if I had the standard shaped windshield to gap seal
situation, and I was going to do flow fences, I think I would make
fences
that attached only to the lower side of the wing, aligned with the
airflow,
and about 6" or 8" out from the side of the fuselage. Probably stick
down
below the wing about 6", and extend past the widest cross section of
the
fuselage several inches, so that any air squirting out sideways from
around
the windshield/wing junction was blended straight back. You ought to
be
able to make up some temporary ones and duct tape them to the bottom of
the
wing and see what happens.
If nothing happens, take them off and throw them away. If the duct
tape
comes loose and they go into the prop, post some pictures, so that the
rest
of us will know what not to do...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
At 80 hp the Jabby is just into a gallop while the 912 at
80 hp is
> balls to the wall.
> ................ Kirk
Kirk/Gang:
I can't speak to the Jabiru cause I don't know much about
them, but I do know a little bit about the Rotax 912 and
912S, having flown my two engines about 1,500 faultless
hours.
The 912 and 912S were designed to turn fast for aircraft
engines, but the built in redrives bring prop speeds right
down to where they belong for the most efficient and
effective rpm.
I don't believe your statement above correctly describes the
performance of the 912 or 912S. Both engines are designed
to turn 5,500 rpm continuous duty resulting in 80 and 95 HP
respectively. I have never flown either of my 912 series
engines continously at 5,500 rpm, but I did fly the old
first generation 912 continuously for 2,000 miles and
aprx'ly 24 hours at 5,400 hours from Alabama to Oshkosh and
return in 1994. The only difference between cruising 5,000
and 5,400 rpm was a lot more noise and .5 gph increase in
fuel consumption. The old 912 was happy and did not break a
sweat. :-)
Out of the above 1,500 hours flight time I lost the 912
engine twice and the 912S once. None of the above the
engines fault. Twice because of fuel contamination and once
from carb ice. A pretty good record based on the amount of
time and varied geographic locations the engines performed.
BTW: I am not sponsored by Rotax. I simply like the
reliability and service I get from the 912's.
john h
PS: Nell and I are back home. We had to cut our trip to
Alaska short due to some medical problems Nell encountered
in Utah. Probably see some of you in Oshkosh or other
flyins this summer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi Ya'll:
Before I get jumped on, better correct the following:
> aprx'ly 24 hours at 5,400 hours from Alabama to Oshkosh and
Should have read: 5,400 rpm. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
BTW: I am not sponsored by Rotax. I simply like the
reliability and service I get from the 912's.
john h
PS: Nell and I are back home. We had to cut our trip to
Alaska short due to some medical problems Nell encountered
in Utah. Probably see some of you in Oshkosh or other
flyins this summer.
Good to have you back online early, but hate to here your trip got cut
short. Prayers for Nell's speedy recovery...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
>
> I don't believe your statement above correctly describes the
> performance of the 912 or 912S. Both engines are designed
> to turn 5,500 rpm continuous duty resulting in 80 and 95 HP
> respectively. I have never flown either of my 912 series
> engines continously at 5,500 rpm, but I did fly the old
> first generation 912 continuously for 2,000 miles and
> aprx'ly 24 hours at 5,400 hours from Alabama to Oshkosh and
> return in 1994. The only difference between cruising 5,000
> and 5,400 rpm was a lot more noise and .5 gph increase in
> fuel consumption. The old 912 was happy and did not break a
> sweat. :-)
Some figures taken from Rotax:
912......100% power=81 hp at 5800rpm......75% power 58.4 hp at 5000
rpm.......fuel consumption 75%=5.1 gal/hr 100%=6.3 gal/hr
912S.......100% power=100 hp at 5800 rpm.......75% power 68.4 hp at 5000 rpm
......fuel consumption 75% power 5.3 gal/hr 100% power 7.1 gal/hr
Jabiru 3300 specs interpolated from a graph....... 80+ hp at 2100
rpm.....couldn't interpolate the fuel burn but at 75% power it's = 5.1
gal/hr.....also at 80 hp the Jabby has 200 ft/lbs of torque.
It would appear from these figures that the 912 is full bore balls to the
wall at 80 hp and the Jabby is loafing along at 2100 rpm sipping fuel. In
the old days the old timers used to say that those high revving engines
wouldn't hold up and weren't dependable enough for airplanes.........I guess
we've flip flopped................Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Hey If you can get a reduction drive on that 2200 Jabiru you should have
a great setup. I know when I added a reduction drive to my VW it
transformed the engine on my MKIII that flew a 90% power just to keep
one person in the air to one that now flys significantly faster, carries
more weight and all at lower power settings. We need an alternitive to
Rotax. I don't know it anyone makes a reduction drive but I would guess
it isn't any small task.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIII
>>> snuffy(at)usol.com 07/05/02 11:34AM >>>
> Amen... I love every thing about the Jabiru...except maybe the
push-rod
> valves...they need a couple of adjustments when there new...but
that's
> not a big deal either. Yes the 3300 would be a pretty even
comparison I
> think against a 912. Except that it is $11500 just for the
engine...but
> when you add the radiators and such to the 912S price it would work
out
> about even...
>
> Jeremy "Not wanting to rain on anyone's Jabiru dreams"
Another interesting comparison between the 912/914 Rotax and the
Jabby
3300. At 80 hp the Jabby is just into a gallop while the 912 at 80 hp
is
balls to the wall. Of course the 914 has the turbo which takes the hp
up
closer to the Jabby but the price higher. On the negative side the
3300
Jabby is a bit heavier and would probably require some mods to the cage
to
mount it. At present I plan on a belt reduction for the Jabby 2200 and
some
cage mods. I think with the reduction drive I can then expand my
propeller
options and a couple of other pet ideas I have about air flow.
................ Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
>
> Hey If you can get a reduction drive on that 2200 Jabiru you should have
> a great setup. I know when I added a reduction drive to my VW it
> transformed the engine on my MKIII that flew a 90% power just to keep
> one person in the air to one that now flys significantly faster, carries
> more weight and all at lower power settings. We need an alternitive to
> Rotax. I don't know it anyone makes a reduction drive but I would guess
> it isn't any small task.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW Powered MKIII
>
Rick,
I'm going to make my own reduction drive. I have access to a great
machine shop in the plant I work in and also some fine machinists. Plus a
few other perks so hopefully I can come up with a working system. It should
be fun and a learning experience. Also have my own cow pasture to crash in
without worry of liability. What more can a flyer ask for? LOL ......Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
Please visit http://www.springeraviation.net/ for the Kolb database and as
always, feel free to send any updates.
Thanks,
Kip
Firestar II
Atlanta
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Anyone interested in going to a Flyin pig roast Aug 10 in Windsor Ont.
? We will have up to 4 Kolbs there. My original twinstar, Andy's Mk111.
The club mk 111 project and my Mk X may be flying by then too. All aircraft
are welcome at the 1700 ft strip Overnight camping is free and recommended.
Live entertainment but BYOB. If you have not had real Canadian beer ( the
stuff you get in the U.S. that says Canadian isn't really) you will be
pleasantly surprised. $18 Can or $13 U.S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Seems like I've heard of several people adapting that Hirth F-30 gearbox to
various engines in the 80 - 100 hp range. Light, strong, fairly moderately
priced, ( I believe - here goes that memory again) so it may be well worth
looking into. CRS Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Jabby rain
>
> Hey If you can get a reduction drive on that 2200 Jabiru you should have
> a great setup. I know when I added a reduction drive to my VW it
> transformed the engine on my MKIII that flew a 90% power just to keep
> one person in the air to one that now flys significantly faster, carries
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Forged steel neck bones ?? :-) :-) Big Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Also have my own cow pasture to crash in
> without worry of liability. What more can a flyer ask for? LOL ......Kirk
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VW redrive Update |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)CenturyTel.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: VW redrive Update
> > the wing and extend 1-2 inches back beyond the leading edge above and
> > below. I will then put a piece of lexan between the flow fences that
> > will smooth the flow up over the wing. The intent is to force the air
> > that normally gets trapped under the gap seal up over the wing instead
> > of flowing around the windshield and into the area were the wing and
> > fuselage meet. Any comments before I build this? Topher?
> >
> > Rick Neilsen
> > Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
>
> Rick try just the fences first. if that doesn't do much then add the
> overfairing. The air flowing between the fences might fill up the area
> between the fences and more or less make a perfectly streamlined fairing
for
> you. sometimes that works and sometimes it doesn't.
>
> I haven't looked at that part of a standard mark III much so I have no
idea
> if it will work on it. OP's plane was very modified and it looked like
that
> might work on his.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jawmson" <jawmson(at)attbi.com> |
Fellow Kolbers,
It has been hard to sit back and read all the traffic about Jabiru and
not make any comments since I didn't have any personal experience with
them.
Well now I have experience. My King Kolbra with a Jabiru 2200 engine
and a 58 inch Warp Drive prop with a HPL hub pitched at 9 degrees
committed aviation at 1815 hours at the Arlington Municipal Airport, TX.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
N49KK
King Kolbra, Jabiru 2200
http://home.attbi.com/~kolbrapilot/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
> Well now I have experience. My King Kolbra with a Jabiru 2200 engine
> and a 58 inch Warp Drive prop with a HPL hub pitched at 9 degrees
> committed aviation at 1815 hours at the Arlington Municipal Airport, TX.
>
> John Williamson
Congratulations John!!!
I know how proud you feel now. You have a great aircraft.
John is the other VN Vet that flew AH-1G's in VN.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Four New Email Lists At Matronics!! |
Dear Listers,
I've just added four new email Lists to the current lineup at
Matronics. These new lists include:
KRNet:
krnet-List(at)matronics.com The RANS KR1 and KR2 Series
Cub:
cub-List(at)matronics.com The Piper J-3 Cub
RV10:
rv10-List(at)matronics.com The New 4-place RV from Van's!
Europa:
europa(at)matronics.com The Slick European Composite
All the usual features are available with the new Lists including the
search engine, archive download, 7-day List browse, and PhotoShare!
To sign up for any or all of the new lists, please go to the List
Subscription page and put in your email address and select the Lists of
your choice. The URL for the Subscription page is:
http://www.matronics.com/subscibe
Don't forget that its your posts that generate traffic on the respective
Lists! Post an introduction and a description of your project or dreams!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [With Good URL This Time!] Four New Email Lists At Matronics!! |
[Typo in the subscribe page URL last time - SORRY! -Matt]
Dear Listers,
I've just added four new email Lists to the current lineup at
Matronics. These new lists include:
KRNet:
krnet-List(at)matronics.com The RANS KR1 and KR2 Series
Cub:
cub-List(at)matronics.com The Piper J-3 Cub
RV10:
rv10-List(at)matronics.com The New 4-place RV from Van's!
Europa:
europa(at)matronics.com The Slick European Composite
All the usual features are available with the new Lists including the
search engine, archive download, 7-day List browse, and PhotoShare!
To sign up for any or all of the new lists, please go to the List
Subscription page and put in your email address and select the Lists of
your choice. The URL for the Subscription page is:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Don't forget that its your posts that generate traffic on the respective
Lists! Post an introduction and a description of your project or dreams!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 07/05/02 |
In a message dated 7/6/02 2:51:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> john h
>
> PS: Nell and I are back home
Welcome home John. Hope Nell's health problem is not too serious and is
something that can be corrected. Waiting for some nice photos of the trip.
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Aircraft ????? |
I was wondering if anyone had thoughts on an engine set up with a two speed
transmission of some kind. When you think about it, a motorcycle shifts down
on a steep hill for more power,(similar to what we need to climb out) then
shifts to a higher gear on the level road, (like us in level flight). A
motorcycle trans. is rather small and could be smaller yet, if it only had
two gears. Remember the old VW Super Beetle
had a two speed automatic. 1 for around the city & 2 for the open road.
Something along those lines, where you could throttle back and pull a lever
when you set up for cruise. Engine rpm drops and prop rpm stays the same. I
asked Homer Kolb once about this idea and he said he had often thought about
this very idea and said he would not be surprised if we didn't see it on an
aircraft someday. Just a thought in the back of my head and was wondering if
anyone else had any ideas along these lines or has tried anything such as
this ??
Bob Griffin
Kolb MK111
618 Albany NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Aircraft ????? |
Thirty years ago, I came up with the idea of a 2 speed automatic for drag
boats, and got laughed at, (now, I understand it's been done with great
success) so I think I know what you're getting at, but wouldn't an in-flight
adjustable prop do just that ?? Fine pitch (high rpm) for take-off, and
coarse pitch (low rpm) for cruise.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Airgriff2(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Two Speed Aircraft ?????
>
> I was wondering if anyone had thoughts on an engine set up with a two
speed
> transmission of some kind. When you think about it, a motorcycle shifts
down
> on a steep hill for more power,(similar to what we need to climb out) then
> shifts to a higher gear on the level road, (like us in level flight). A
> motorcycle trans. is rather small and could be smaller yet, if it only had
> two gears. Remember the old VW Super Beetle
> had a two speed automatic. 1 for around the city & 2 for the open road.
> Something along those lines, where you could throttle back and pull a
lever
> when you set up for cruise. Engine rpm drops and prop rpm stays the same.
I
> asked Homer Kolb once about this idea and he said he had often thought
about
> this very idea and said he would not be surprised if we didn't see it on
an
> aircraft someday. Just a thought in the back of my head and was wondering
if
> anyone else had any ideas along these lines or has tried anything such as
> this ??
>
> Bob Griffin
> Kolb MK111
> 618 Albany NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Aircraft ????? |
> Thirty years ago, I came up with the idea of a 2 speed automatic for drag
> boats, and got laughed at, (now, I understand it's been done with great
> success) so I think I know what you're getting at, but wouldn't an
in-flight
> adjustable prop do just that ?? Fine pitch (high rpm) for take-off, and
> coarse pitch (low rpm) for cruise.
There is also the snowmobile clutch system which is infinitely variable
within its minimum and maximum ratios. This system is now being used on the
new Saturn SUV with the V6 engine. I don't know what power losses there are
in this system however. I don't think it's a lot though. It would be
excellent in absorbing power pulses though. A bit on the heavy side
maybe...........Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <George_Bass_0(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Aircraft ????? |
For many years now, a large number of the MOTORGLIDERS made
in Europe have used a 2-speed, 3-position propellor. Position # 1
Climb/Power. Position # 2 = Cruise. Position # 3 = Feathered (for
less drage during the 'glide' or soaring portion of the flight.
Such a mechanism might be constructed for lighter aircraft that could
provide the type of 2-pitch positions you spoke of. However, I am
not able to recall any of the MOTORGLIDERS being PUSHERS.
This might pose another difficulty in development. IVO does make
an IN-FLIGHT ADJUSTABLE PROP that is controlled from a
switch in the cockpit ......ELECTRICALLY. Some say it has been
very successful (no direct experience to relate).
George Bass
USUA # 80399
USUA Club # 555
USUA Club # 770
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Aircraft ????? |
> success) so I think I know what you're getting at, but wouldn't an in-flight
> adjustable prop do just that ?? Fine pitch (high rpm) for take-off, and
> coarse pitch (low rpm) for cruise.
>
> Larry Bourne
> > I was wondering if anyone had thoughts on an engine set up with a two
> speed
> > transmission of some kind.
> > Bob Griffin
Morning Ya'll:
There is a Honda 6 cyl inline flying on a Talon(?)(looks
like a Maxair) in South Alabama. Saw it at the St Elmo, AL,
flying last March. Was not very pretty, but the guy was
using the engine and gear box just like it came out of the
bike. Had a crude chain drive between the gearbox and prop
shaft with an even cruder chain tensioner. Yep, he actually
flew it. Would not have believed it if I had not seen it
with my own eyes. :-)
john h (sweating at hauck's holler, alabama)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Aircraft ????? |
IVO in-flight adjustable prop owners now have another option available, an
electric box that gives the option of the prop being constant speed or
manually adjusted in flight. Anyone out there tried this new option on their
in-flight adjustable IVO? If any of you have an IVO in-flight adj. prop
please contact me (I have one but have not fully installed it yet and would
like to hear from someone with experiance with it).
Steve
FS
503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Congratulations!! Have a fun and safe time during your flight testing.
Looking forward to hearing about your Jabiru.
Rex Rodebush
building a Mark III X-tra
Subject: Kolb-List: First Flight
>
> Fellow Kolbers,
> > committed aviation at 1815 hours at the Arlington Municipal Airport,
TX.
>
> John Williamson
> Arlington, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Aircraft ????? |
> Morning Ya'll:
>
> There is a Honda 6 cyl inline flying on a Talon(?)(looks
> like a Maxair) in South Alabama. Saw it at the St Elmo, AL,
> flying last March. Was not very pretty, but the guy was
> using the engine and gear box just like it came out of the
> bike. Had a crude chain drive between the gearbox and prop
> shaft with an even cruder chain tensioner. Yep, he actually
> flew it. Would not have believed it if I had not seen it
> with my own eyes. :-)
>
> john h (sweating at hauck's holler, alabama)
I had an old Virago engine here for a while and thought about using that
but when I weighed it , it was 205 lbs. That was a 750. Well anyway I got
curious about what the gears would weigh so I took out all the gears and
shift rods, etc. Put the case back together and it weighed 135 lbs. 70 lbs
of tranny on that thing. Wouldn't have believed it. I got a friend down
south of you in Opp and down there it's hotter than 40 hells she says. I
guess that's pretty hot? .......Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Redrive Resonance Problems |
| From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
Any of you remember Molt Taylor and the "dry fluid coupling" he used on
the Imp, Aircar, etc? It had a driven housing like a torque converter, a
waved plate inside attached to the output shaft, and was partially full
of steel balls. It absorbed vibration like a fluid coupling without the
power losses. It seems to me it was a standard industrial part used for
other applications, and when you ordered one you never used the dreaded
words "aviation" or "airplane".
FYI
Larry the MicroMong guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Bennethum Jr." <rjlbjr(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 2SI gearbox drive |
I have an intersest in the 2SI gearbox which fits the Cyuna UL-202. I,m
looking for info concerning reliabilty, smoothness, etc. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Side slipping Mark III Xtra |
Question:
Does anyone sideslip their Mark III successfully ???
I don't seem to be able to do it... maybe not enough fuselage...
Thanks.
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Xtra
BMW powered
57 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | redfield <redfield(at)695online.com> |
| Subject: | E-Mail address change |
My new E-Mail address is: redfield(at)695online.com
William/Grace Redfield
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Group, I just finished fabbing my gas tank tray (mkIII), looks
pretty good, then I was in kmart yesterday and found a Martha
Stewart aluminum baking tray. -Sure looked good and sturdy
near long enough. Food for thought though, before I do a battery
tray I'm going to one of those big houseworks type of stores
to see what they have to offer. -BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
| Subject: | Re: sling seat change? |
07/07/2002 01:00:49 PM
Greetings all.
I recently ordered the appolstered (sp?) padded seat from TNK along with a
replacement sling seat for underneath for my Mrk III (the original
passenger side seat was badly cut). Still waiting for the appolstered seat,
but the sling seat replacement arrived and it is not the same as the
original. The middle of my original sling seat (where it folds between the
back and the bottom), was sandwiched between an underlylying piece of cage
tubing and a long thin piece of drilled aluminum on top and riveted. The
replacement sling seat I got has a loop of fabric in the the middle that is
clearly intended to slide over a piece of tubing, which is not possiuble on
my older (1991) Mrk III. The new material is additionally too long if used
as is.
Well, I know by now that no repair or maintenance procedure goes like I
think it should, so Im not too surprised. More curious I guess, as to what
changed between my plane and what is currently being constructed for the
Mrk III classic. Do I have some Frankenstein Mrk III for which any new
part is never quite right, or perhaps I was sent the sling seat for an
Xtra?
I can understand if a design change happened -my original seat is
unbearable without padding. TNK does not have a Classic at their shop to
compare to right now; I will call Ray tomorrow and check with him, but
looks like a trip to the tailor may be in order...
regards,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Aircraft ????? |
In responce to John's Hauck's comments, I live here in Mobile Al and actually
see this plane flying quite a bit. Saw it yesterday as a matter of fact. I
did think it was a Maxair though. The owner is quite proud of his
installation, and the engine installation is pretty impressive....untill you
take a look at the chain drive. This set up would not be for me, ( I fly as
you guys call it...a spam can Cessna 140, but do also have quite a bit of UL
time from years ago) The chain drive set up he has scares me, but I guess
this is why they make chocolate and vanilla. I do not know the mans name,
but can get it for you if you would like. He hangers at a little grass strip
a couple of miles west of St. Elmo called Funderosa. I will say that it is a
strange sight to see him crank up and be warming up the engine, and the prop
is not moving. I believe he is using about three different gears, and yes
you can hear it when he shifts it. Makes for an intereting conversation
piece.
List Lurker
Jay Stevens
EAA 1209
St Elmo Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Side slipping Mark III Xtra |
> > > Roll to near vertical, wait until you are falling pretty good
> > > and now hit full top rudder. ahhhhhh, sure does go downhill
> > > nice. Great way to drop through that sucker hole.
> >
Done a manuveur sorta like that in a PA12 many years ago with my Dad. He
called it a hammer head stall. He said" Now son be real careful the down
wing don't tuck underneath ya or you could be in big trouble and get into an
inverted flat spin. " That old PA 12 would do some lovely slips though with
that big old fuselage she had. ................Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 100cc Yamaha, 5 pt harness |
If anyone has need of a 100cc Yamaha engine I have one and also a new 5 pt
mil spec aerobatic harness (new unused, black) - would also like to find a
277 rotax to trade something for.
SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Side slipping Mark III Xtra |
Used to do this in a PA 28-180 all the time- had a ball! Would cross
control all she would take safely with control and drop like a rock. Give
yourself plenty of time to pull out and keep your G's and airspeeds under
control. You may want to do this with an instructor a couple of times first.
Practice at altitude first! BooBoos hurt and cost big $.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Slip sliding away..... |
Too bad Homer couldn't have thought of a good way to make up for the
shoddy slip sliding of the kolb.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slip sliding away..... |
> Too bad Homer couldn't have thought of a good way to make up for the
> shoddy slip sliding of the kolb.
Kirk Smith
Kirk/Gents:
Homer did come up with a good way to make up for the slip
characteristics of his Kolbs.
1) He put some big flaps on the MK III that turn it into an
instant elevator.
2) All the long wing Kolb designs can be mushed into the
ground without killing the pilot, most of the time. :-) I
don't know about the Sling Shot and Fire Fly.
Under certain condidtions the Kolbs can be slipped quite
well. Trouble is, one can not always depend of them
reacting the same way in a slip.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slip sliding away..... |
> Kirk/Gents:
>
> Homer did come up with a good way to make up for the slip
> characteristics of his Kolbs.
John,
Son of a gun. That makes sense. Thanks John and Homer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slip sliding away..... |
> Got to chime in on this one. My FireStar II slips just fine, and is predictable.
> Dave Rains
Dave/Guys:
Good to hear that. My old original Firestar also slipped
well.
However, the Mark III has some bad habits, not only mine,
but the the old factory Mark III also. Probably has
something to do with bad air or no air on the tail section,
especially the elevators. Hard to explain, but easy to show
you. :-)
Kolb airplanes can be "strange birds" at times. My Firestar
would only spin one half turn with the controls at full
lock, then fly right out of the spin. That was with the
engine at idle. When I tried a spin dead stick, she spung
up like a top.
The Mark III spins right up at idle and won't stop until I
stop it.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slip sliding away..... |
>
>
>> Too bad Homer couldn't have thought of a good way to make up for the
>> shoddy slip sliding of the kolb.
> Kirk Smith
>1) He put some big flaps on the MK III that turn it into an
>instant elevator.
>
>2) All the long wing Kolb designs can be mushed into the
>ground without killing the pilot, most of the time. :-) I
>don't know about the Sling Shot and Fire Fly.
>
>Under certain condidtions the Kolbs can be slipped quite
>well. Trouble is, one can not always depend of them
>reacting the same way in a slip.
>
>john h
John & Others,
The FireFly with the short cord ailerons and VGs will mush with no problems
of keeping the wings level. Also one can side slip it to compensate for a
25 mph direct cross wind upon landing with an approach speed of 50 mph. At
this magnitude of a cross wind it takes a lot of rudder to keep it lined
up. Side stick pressure is not that noticeable. I don't forward slip
because it is so easy to cut power, drop the nose and fly it on down.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: sling seat change? |
Erich,
The loop on the bottom of the new sling seat attaches the same as your old
seat only now the loop drops down in front of the frame tubing and the thin
piece of aluminum strip is in front of that. The loop does not slid over any
tube.
The front of the seat will need to be cut to fit for the Classic, The
mounting method is different for the Xtra, where it is wrapped around the
front seat tube and sandwiched between two thin strips of aluminum.
Apparently the replacement seat can be used for either. You may want to
forget about the loop and attach it the way it originally was. Just take out
the seam and cut alittle more off the front.
Guy Swenson
MKIII Xtra
N3053B
The middle of my original sling seat (where it folds between the
> back and the bottom), was sandwiched between an underlylying piece of cage
> tubing and a long thin piece of drilled aluminum on top and riveted. The
> replacement sling seat I got has a loop of fabric in the the middle that
is
> clearly intended to slide over a piece of tubing, which is not possiuble
on
> my older (1991) Mrk III. The new material is additionally too long if used
> as is.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | paint and blimps |
My great paint job on my new plane was still tacky 14 hrs later when I
put it in the hanger but was dry the next day.. I called the company and
they are sending me new paint. Still have to sand out all the little
buggers, sand and prep whole plane again. Hopefully I will have it ready
for the design next week. Then I can hook up the engine and go flying.
Went flying in Andy's Mk111 yesterday. A bit bumpy but it was a joy to
be in the air again. I am spending to much time building and other stuff to
get much flying done. The senior PGA is being held a couple miles away
this weekend so the Sanyo blimp has been flying around. Yesterday he was
keeping on the other side of the road from me so there was no problem.
Today he kept going up and down my runway at about 500 ft. NEATO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Perhaps it more like that the new Jabiru users are trying to prop it like a
two-stroke. That's the problem HKS has experienced.
jerryb
>
>I'm sure I will get flamed for this but.... When I talked to the guys a
>New Kolb last year they indicated they were disappointed with the Jabiru
>engine. They felt they needed to build a lighter version of the MKIII
>for this engine.
>They said they thought it was a good engine just kind of low on thrust.
>I also had a discussion with a prop manufacture that said "the person
>that designed that engine just doesn't understand props". It would seem
>the Jabiru, like my VW it needs a reduction drive to compete with the
>reduction drive Rotax.
>
>my $.01 worth
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
> >>> joshcoggins(at)att.com 07/02/02 07:00PM >>>
>
>
>Dallas,
> Everything that I have heard about the Jabiru engine states
>that composite props can't be used. Is there a WARP Drive prop that can
>be used on the Jabiru? Seems like the direct drive coupled with the
>power pulses created by the engine were cracking composite props. Most,
>if not all, of the Jabiru engine owners
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Aircraft ????? |
Steve,
What model gear box do you plan to use on your Rotax to drive your IVO in
flight adjustable prop?
jerryb
>
>IVO in-flight adjustable prop owners now have another option available, an
>electric box that gives the option of the prop being constant speed or
>manually adjusted in flight. Anyone out there tried this new option on their
>in-flight adjustable IVO? If any of you have an IVO in-flight adj. prop
>please contact me (I have one but have not fully installed it yet and would
>like to hear from someone with experiance with it).
>
>Steve
>FS
>503
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slip sliding away..... |
John, do any of the the Kolbs have a problem with the flaps blanking out
the elevators in a slip ?? Seems like they should be high enough not to
cause a problem. In the C-172, there's a very strong caution about it.
Slipping with the flaps down can result in the elevators stalling in the
disturbed air, causing an abrupt nose down.............just when you're on
very short final. Could make an "interesting" landing. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Slip sliding away.....
>
>
> > Too bad Homer couldn't have thought of a good way to make up for the
> > shoddy slip sliding of the kolb.
> Kirk Smith
>
> Kirk/Gents:
>
> Homer did come up with a good way to make up for the slip
> characteristics of his Kolbs.
>
> 1) He put some big flaps on the MK III that turn it into an
> instant elevator.
>
> 2) All the long wing Kolb designs can be mushed into the
> ground without killing the pilot, most of the time. :-) I
> don't know about the Sling Shot and Fire Fly.
>
> Under certain condidtions the Kolbs can be slipped quite
> well. Trouble is, one can not always depend of them
> reacting the same way in a slip.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Cowan" <tcowan1917(at)direcway.com> |
gotta tell everyone that my little 86' version firestar slips quite well.
saved my bacon over the northern georgia territory. slipped left and right
and back again so as to not overshoot the LZ. was real quite with the
little thingee in the back not turning. made a beautiful landing and is
still around to the day. love my little toy. you gotta stay on it in a slip
though. steep glide but slow. learn your plane and practice, practice,
practice. ted cowan, alabama. p.s. have firestar II gear legs and alum.
tail wheel rod. removed ten degrees of angle on the tail wheel, turns on a
dime.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
gotta tell everyone that my little 86' version firestar slips quite well.
saved my bacon over the northern georgia territory.
Ted and others,
I can confirm that. My '86 Firestar comes down like an elevator in a slip. It is
a great technique for losing altitude fast.
I had a great time flying it this weekend. Flew 260 miles and it still flies as
good as it did 15 years ago.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
I thought I was the only one that was a litte unconfortable seriously
slipping my Mark III. I thought my plane may be out of wack. I am used to
slipping GA planes and have full confidence rolling into and out of a full
slips. However with my Mark III I have noticed it is difficult for me to
perfictly roll in and roll out with out bobbing up and down or getting the
cross control input out of timing. I just use the flaps.
Dave
For information on the lowest priced web site design please contact me.
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <George_Bass_0(at)hotmail.com> |
Lar;
My most sincere congratulations on your long-term recovery.
Having done pretty much the very same thing, I think I do fully
understand your triumph. I think the only reason that I'm alive
today, is because of my family, and the fact that they supported
me through the 'ends' to clean up my act.
After getting hooked on menthol smokes, found that the only
way I could get off them was with a stronger smoke, so I used
"Bull Durham"(?) smokes for years. What a trip getting free.
Not sure but I think my name must be up in all the bars still,
as a 'cut-off'. That happened in '76-'77. The world is much
better without the blur of alcohol and the odor of burning bush.
Again, congrats for a job well done,
George Bass
USUA # 80399
USUA Club # 555
USUA Club # 770
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Kolbers,
In response to the 2SI gearbox question about reliability
I can only tell you I had a 2.04 to 1 on my Ultrastar and had a
propellar related resonance that caused me to think it was the box. I
changed the box to a belt drive of 2.50 to 1 and aggravated the problem
to where I could not fly it because I had to increase the pitch because
of the slower prop RPM . The final solution was to go to a 3 blade
ground adjustable Warp drive of the same diameter of 50 inches and still
used the belt drive. I could have kept the gearbox by just going to the
three blades. I now have a smooth running combination without the
gearbox clatter at idle that was rather irritating. By going to a third
blade on the Ultrastar (overhead boom limits prop diameter to 50) I was
able to decrease the pitch on each blade and get back to a better pitch
setting and stay out of cavitation that I think was causing the
resonance..............Warp Drive was very gracious in giving me credit
for the 2 blade hub plates and replacing them with the 3 blade and then
adding clamps, hardware and propellar blade which turned out to be much
cheaper than buying a whole prop.
The resonance could have also been caused by airflow to
the prop around the Firefly type fiberglass nose installed on this
machine. When I went to the belt drive I had to build a new mount
because of the difference in offset from the drive and the result was
moving the engine rearward and the position of the prop moved forward.
My final thoughts are that the gearbox was OK.. My son
and I flew it for 80 hours with a Warp Drive 2 blade prop and it
performed well.
Thanks to all on the list who responded to my questions.
After carefully considering the input I was able to get a solution. Have
been flying vibration free for a few days and was able to win the bomb
drop contest yesterday at the Gaines Valley Airport picnic but was
quickly disqualified because of being a "professional". I drop
fertilizer a lot in my cropdusting business.Some of my friends tell me I
also drop it when I talk to them..........
Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
07/08/2002 09:46:40 AM
>Any of you remember Molt Taylor and the "dry fluid coupling" he used on
>the Imp, Aircar, etc? It had a driven housing like a torque converter, a
>waved plate inside attached to the output shaft, and was partially full
>of steel balls. It absorbed vibration like a fluid coupling without the
>power losses. It seems to me it was a standard industrial part used for
>other applications, and when you ordered one you never used the dreaded
>words "aviation" or "airplane".
Sorry, I am reading all the digests from last week, this reply and my last
post could've been combined. My '81 Teratorn with 377 twin cylinder Rotax
used the device you describe above. Teratorn Company called it the
"Flexidyne" or Flexdyne", I am not sure which. It was built like a torque
converter with, as you stated, a wavy plate. It was shipped full of fine
steel shot, maybe 0.030" diameter each. There was about a pound of this
stufff poured in. The whole Flexidyne unit was shaft-mounted with one of
those concentric clamp-mount systems. And bolted right thru the Flexidyne
was a nice timing belt pulley for 40mm belts. The engine had the small
pulley (steel) on it. Once belt tension was set, this was maintenance free
also.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Final FAA Inspection |
Kolb Friends -
My Mark-3 is finished (total build time was 550 hrs), and the FAA came out
and did the final airworthiness inspection this week. For the List members
who haven't reached this point yet, I'm hoping that one or two of you may
benefit by my sharing this experience.
I'll begin by saying that the FAA reps from the local Flight Standards
District Office here (Albuquerque) were very prompt, thorough and helpful.
And best of all, it was FREE. I've heard many stories about the FAA
delegating inspection duties to the Designated Airworthiness Representatives
(DARs) because the FAA guys "have more important duties to attend to." And
the DAR can charge anywhere from $200 to $600 to perform an inspection! I
was able to set up an inspection date within a week of submitting my letter.
They (2 FAA "agents") came to my house to do the inspection. They looked
over my Mark-3 for over an hour, then spent another hour reviewing my
paperwork. The airplane passed inspection (YEAH!) and the FAA will proceed
with issuing my Airworthiness Certificate.
They did discover a few items that need to be done before first flight
(mostly safety-wire stuff). I was amazed that they found an un-safetied
bolt head, buried deep within the the disk brake assembly. You really had
to look hard between gaps to find it. (Beware - Matco disk brake owners:
There are 5 cap head bolts per brake assembly that require safety wire, and
they do NOT come already safetied from the factory. You must safety wire
them yourselves!) They also suggested I install protective spiral-wrap
(like what we normally wrap around wire bundles) around the exposed brake
lines that run down the gear legs to protect them from rocks and UV. And
finally, they said I should install anti-chafe tape on my gap seal where it
contacts the wing roots, to prevent the fabric from wearing away there. All
good recommendations.
For paperwork (besides the registration forms to fill out), the FAA wanted
to see an Aircraft Operator's Handbook that contained a general description
of the aircraft and its systems, operating procedures, weight & balance
information (mine came in at 560 lbs empty wt), and diagrams of the various
aircraft systems (such as electical, fuel circuit, oil circuit, etc.).
The FAA was generous in issuing the Operating Limitations - they specified
an operating area of 60-mile radius from my home airport (insead of the
usual 25 miles) for my 40 hours of phase-1 flight testing. And they even
specified 3 airports BEYOND the 60 miles that I'm allowed to fly to.
And so ... all that's left are the taxi tests, and then first flight.
Hopefully, within the next week or 2.
I'll keep you all posted. (Hey Big Lar - am I gonna beat you into the air
too?!)
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, Verner-80hp, Powerfin72, N93DK
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slip sliding away..... |
> John, do any of the the Kolbs have a problem with the flaps blanking out
> the elevators in a slip ?? Lar.
Lar/Gang:
Flaps may be the problem.
I'll start flying again tomorrow, after I get AVEMCO to
change my policy from "storage" to "in flight", plus finish
patching the ding in my prop caused by an errant exhaust
spring. If I can remember something that long, I will
experiment with slips to refresh my memory and see what's
up.
Normally, with the effective flaps, I don't use slips,
except during high cross wind conditions.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Aircraft ????? |
Hello JerryB,
I have a "B"drive on it - 2.58 redux ( I bought it a while back before I
bought the prop). I will look it up to be sure of the redux. ratio, but I
think its 2.58. I have a 503 DC and have only burned off the first hour
breakin. I put the in flight adj. prop (3 blade IVO) and in flight adj. carb
mix control on but have not played with it in the air yet.
When I started the rebuild I did it all at once instead of one piece at a
time - big mistake! If a problem arises I won't have as easy a time figuring
it out. Wasn't thinking clearly (lack of experiance - this has been a real
learning process for me). Also now I can't fly between projects but must
wait until its done.
I have an original (1988) FS that I want to fill with toys for long X/C
flights and after I finished weighing everything I have to put in and on, it
came out at about 750 lbs so now I need to find a pair of FS2 wings to carry
it all! I am also going to find a 277 and make it so I can convert it from a
fully loaded X/C exp to a legal ultralight (and use my current wings for
that). Wings and 277 will have to wait for $ to magically appear though. I
do have a 100cc Yamaha that I had thought of using for the ultralight engine
but I am not sure 15 hp would do it. Heard of anyone using 15hp on a FS and
getting it up (in less than a mile of runway)?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jawmson" <jawmson(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Final FAA Inspection |
Dennis,
Congratulations on the final inspection. It is a great feeling but it gets
better when you make the first take-off.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
N49KK
King Kolbra, Jabiru 2200
http://home.attbi.com/~kolbrapilot/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robedrt Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slip sliding away..... |
My MarkIII slips OK with full flaps. No slip in a Kolb is like a slip in a
Luscombe or cessna 152. The Kolbs rudder is not the biggest thing! That is
one reason you can slip it with full flaps and not have a tailplane buffet.
Bob N52BK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Slip sliding away.....
>
> Too bad Homer couldn't have thought of a good way to make up for the
> shoddy slip sliding of the kolb.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slip sliding away..... |
> My MarkIII slips OK with full flaps. No slip in a Kolb is like a slip in a
> Luscombe or cessna 152. The Kolbs rudder is not the biggest thing! That is
> one reason you can slip it with full flaps and not have a tailplane
buffet.
> Bob N52BK
Ok I see. I was thinking it something to do with the lack of a substantial
fuselage to act as an airbrake. So it's the rudder then.
Thanks............Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: sling seat change? |
Hey wait a minute. That loop of fabric will probably keep your tail bone
off the lower seat tubing. I added a few inches of foam to my MKIII to
fix that problem. This new design sounds great I may replace my seat
fabric at least for my passenger seat were I don't have foam.
My $.02
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> guys(at)rrt.net 07/07/02 11:22PM >>>
Erich,
The loop on the bottom of the new sling seat attaches the same as your
old
seat only now the loop drops down in front of the frame tubing and the
thin
piece of aluminum strip is in front of that. The loop does not slid
over any
tube.
The front of the seat will need to be cut to fit for the Classic, The
mounting method is different for the Xtra, where it is wrapped around
the
front seat tube and sandwiched between two thin strips of aluminum.
Apparently the replacement seat can be used for either. You may want
to
forget about the loop and attach it the way it originally was. Just
take out
the seam and cut alittle more off the front.
Guy Swenson
MKIII Xtra
N3053B
The middle of my original sling seat (where it folds between the
> back and the bottom), was sandwiched between an underlylying piece of
cage
> tubing and a long thin piece of drilled aluminum on top and riveted.
The
> replacement sling seat I got has a loop of fabric in the the middle
that
is
> clearly intended to slide over a piece of tubing, which is not
possiuble
on
> my older (1991) Mrk III. The new material is additionally too long if
used
> as is.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Perhaps it more like that the new Jabiru users are trying to prop it like a
>two-stroke. That's the problem HKS has experienced.
>jerryb
I have heard that a 2 cycle prop is different from a 4 cycle prop. Most
people use the same for both but there is a difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Woody wrote:
>
> > --my back yard as long as you like. It is 75 ft wide and 1500 ft long.
>
>Man, a 75 x 1500 back yard. You are envied.
I'm kind hearted, I'll share it with anyone on the list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: sling seat change? |
> Hey wait a minute. That loop of fabric will probably keep your tail bone
> off the lower seat tubing.
> Rick Neilsen
Rick/Gents:
That is why my Firestar and MK III have hard seats. Under
the hard seats are riveted sheet metal pans to keep my butt
from going through the 4130 seat frame. A trick I learned
from the JARS pilots that demonstrate the Heliocourier at
Lakeland and OSH.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
> >Perhaps it more like that the new Jabiru users are trying to prop it like a
> >two-stroke. That's the problem HKS has experienced.
> >jerryb
> I have heard that a 2 cycle prop is different from a 4 cycle prop. Most
> people use the same for both but there is a difference.
> Woody
Jerryb/Woody/Gang:
You guys need to expound on the two topics above.
I didn't know a prop knew any difference between 2 stroke or
4 stroke power. Don't think it really cares what kind of
power is used to turn it.
I prop both (2 and 4 stroke) to bump the engine red line at
WOT, straight and level flight. Gives me the best possible
climb and cruise with a ground adjustable or fixed pitch
prop.
If I use the above method, does not matter what the static
rpm is or whether it is a 2 or 4 stroke. I use the same
method to prop my boats.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finished Painting!! |
Ken,
You may be forgetting an important step. I think that the new wings need
to be carefully positioned and then the front mounting holes drilled.
This step can easily take several hours.
John Jung
Ken Korenek wrote:
>
>snip
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 7/8/02 3:28:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
biglar(at)gogittum.com writes:
<< .diet pop
is only a maybe, depending on who you talk to, and what they believe. While
I'm bragging, I also ended 30 yrs worth of drunk-aholic-ism on Oct. 13, '86,
in preparation for the smoke quitting. Knew without saying that there was
no way to have a beer or 20 (no kidding) without a smoke, too. Cold turkey
is a tough go........but it's the ONLY way ! ! ! (can't speak for
Nico-derm, etc.......they didn't exist then) To those who want to
quit..........it CAN be done, but it's a bitch..........go for
it.........gogittum ! ! ! Clean Livin' Lar Do not
Archive. >>
good for you Lar!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
>
> If I use the above method, does not matter what the static
> rpm is or whether it is a 2 or 4 stroke. I use the same
> method to prop my boats.
>
> john
the difference is in the power pulses... a 2 cylinder 2 stroke turning 6000
RPM gets 12000 power impulses a minute. a 2 cylinder 4 stroke at 3000 rpm
only gets 3000. if they both make 100 hp then the force of each power pulse
is 4 times as great for the 4 stroke. the big power pulses at that slower
rate tend to drive torsion deflections and if you can use a lighter prop it
helps reduce the chance of torsion resonance, where the torsion deflections
grow in magnitude until something breaks. so the big difference is you must
use a light prop or one tuned for torsional resonance with a 4 stroke, and
for the 2 stroke it is less of a concern, especially since most redrives
have a damper to reduce the powerspikes even further.
topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
>
>
> > I have heard that a 2 cycle prop is different from a 4 cycle prop. Most
> > people use the same for both but there is a difference.
> > Woody
>
>Jerryb/Woody/Gang:
>
>You guys need to expound on the two topics above.
Dang it John do you have any idea how many books I would have to go through
to find that info. It may even have come from the Kolb guys when they were
experimenting with the HKS. If I find it I will let you know but I think
the difference was that the 4 stroke could use a wider chord on the blade.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Custom Kolb trailer for sale |
| From: | Bruce E Harrison <bharrison(at)juno.com> |
Listers:
I have for sale a trailer which was custom designed and built for hauling
Kolb aircraft. It has some unique features which make it very convenient
and secure for hauling your ultralight short or long distances. I have
used it for hauling a FS II from New England to the Carolinas and for
taking the plane between home and the flying field. Currently located in
Columbia, SC. Pictures available via e-mail upon request.
Features:
Sturdy construction with spare wheel and tire
Two main ramps and a smaller ramp for the tailwheel--with the built-in
winch the plane is easy to load
Support pedestal which keeps the weight of the boom and tailfeathers off
the tailwheel when trailering
Padded wing supports which securely hold wings--wings are not pinned to
boom when trailering
Built-in boat-style winch with long nylon lead
Wheel chocks which securely hold both main wheels
$1000 or best offer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
so the big difference is you must
> use a light prop or one tuned for torsional resonance with a 4 stroke, and
> for the 2 stroke it is less of a concern, especially since most redrives
> have a damper to reduce the powerspikes even further.
>
> topher
topher/Gents:
Good. I understand.
However, since the engines I use have redrives and torsional
vibration dampners, I don't concern myself too much with
diferences in props.
We do have a start problem with the 912S that is agrevated
by heavy props and sloppy torsional vibration dampners and
light flywheels. Maybe the good folks at ROTAX will come up
with a fix sooner or later. If not, I guess I will have to
live with it because I like the rest of the engine package.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Custom Kolb trailer for sale |
Hi
where are you at?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Custom Kolb trailer for sale |
sorry, I was distracted when I read your ad - sounds nice but its a little to
far away. Would love to get the blueprints/diagram though
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Custom Kolb trailer for sale |
If it were for a Mk III, and you were 2000 miles closer...............! ! !
Daydreamin' Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce E Harrison" <bharrison(at)juno.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Custom Kolb trailer for sale
>
> Listers:
>
> I have for sale a trailer which was custom designed and built for hauling
> Kolb aircraft. It has some unique features which make it very convenient
> and secure for hauling your ultralight short or long distances. I have
> used it for hauling a FS II from New England to the Carolinas and for
> taking the plane between home and the flying field. Currently located in
> Columbia, SC. Pictures available via e-mail upon request.
>
> Features:
>
> Sturdy construction with spare wheel and tire
> Two main ramps and a smaller ramp for the tailwheel--with the built-in
> winch the plane is easy to load
> Support pedestal which keeps the weight of the boom and tailfeathers off
> the tailwheel when trailering
> Padded wing supports which securely hold wings--wings are not pinned to
> boom when trailering
> Built-in boat-style winch with long nylon lead
> Wheel chocks which securely hold both main wheels
>
> $1000 or best offer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
please what is W.O.T..............??
vnz in UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Custom Kolb trailer for sale |
I am interested in your trailer. If you can please send pictures to
ronormar(at)apex.net I tried to e-mail you off list but was not sucessful.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, July 08, 2002 09:31:53 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Custom Kolb trailer for sale
Listers:
I have for sale a trailer which was custom designed and built for hauling
Kolb aircraft. It has some unique features which make it very convenient
and secure for hauling your ultralight short or long distances. I have
used it for hauling a FS II from New England to the Carolinas and for
taking the plane between home and the flying field. Currently located in
Columbia, SC. Pictures available via e-mail upon request.
Features:
Sturdy construction with spare wheel and tire
Two main ramps and a smaller ramp for the tailwheel--with the built-in
winch the plane is easy to load
Support pedestal which keeps the weight of the boom and tailfeathers off
the tailwheel when trailering
Padded wing supports which securely hold wings--wings are not pinned to
boom when trailering
Built-in boat-style winch with long nylon lead
Wheel chocks which securely hold both main wheels
$1000 or best offer
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 36 Msgs - 07/08/02 |
A friend is selling his MK3 and asked if I would post this for him.
The original builder, an older gent, popped off the ground doing crow hops,
throttled back and was shocked to see the nose come up. He had problems
getting used to the characteristics of a pusher configuration. Also in the
early stages of flying this plane, he got caught in some turbulant air on the
back side of a hill and got thrown all over. He also was not used to a light
plane. Between these two things, he pretty much said "thats it" and it has
sat idle.
The present owner ( my friend) was a trike flyer. Last fall he was just
getting used to the plane and was doing alot of crow hops and flying down the
runway. This spring he went to dig it out of the hangar and found a jack
pole used to support the roof from snow load had fallen on the boom tube and
put a small dent in it. He has a new one and is installing it now.
This MK3 was built rather light.
4 or 5 yrs. old. Around 60 hrs. TT
Rotax 618 3 blade wood prop
Is reg. and N numbered
Rather than 2 or 3 plastic fuel tanks, the original builder installed a
Cessna tank in the wing gap area. He also installed a larger radiator up
front. Both of these mods work fine.
The only draw back is paint. It was painted with Poly tone, has faded
some, & is dull and dirty. With a good cleaning and a nice top coat of fresh
paint, this MK3 would look like the $20,000 plane that it should be.
The seller has some money issues that have come up, and realises that he
cannot afford a private pilots lic. and all the costs of lessons, and annuals
on the plane as he is not the builder.
The price is FIRM. Exactly what he has invested.
$6,500
Contact: Robert Rayow
Coxsackie, NY
518-731-7573
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jabiru engines |
> please what is W.O.T..............??
> vnz in UK
Morning Vince/Gang:
Sorry about that. WOT is Wide Open Throttle.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: sling seat change? |
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
07/09/2002 11:41:33 AM
Thanks to those who have replied regarding the apparent change in the sling
seats. I had originally been told by TNK that there was no difference
between the sling seat for the Classic Mrk III and the Xtra, but this is
not the case (for starters, the Mrk III seat tapers toward the lower end).
This was straightened out after talking to Ray at TNK yesterday, and they
are now sending me the correct (Classic) seat.
Ray indicated that TNK is now installing a pan under the sling seats,
apparently similar to what John H has recommended. I wouldnt mind doing
the same - pictures anyone? Arent digital cameras a requirement for being
on the List now? : )
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
All this talk about vortex generators and flow fences makes me wonder what
to install. I am currently to the point of finishing my gap seal and
enclosure on my MKIII. My goal is to keep the aircraft as simple as
possible. I am installing a permanent gap seal as I will have some switches
and such installed in the gap seal. I have also installed stock doors and
since I did not like Kolbs rear flexible enclosure I have installed Lexan in
the rear side window area. I was thinking of covering the area around the
fuel tanks like recommended, then I started to think that maybe I would just
put a "wall" right behind the seats and leave the entire aft area open, this
would leave the entire area for about 3 feet in front of the prop with
nothing but tubing and a very blunt cut off where the cabin ends. I don't
mind the open frame look. I was wondering what the best aerodynamic option
is with a full enclosure and what some of you would have done with your
enclosures if you had to do it over again. Since I have been a lurker on
this list for as long as this list has been in existence I would also like
to give a short bio and extend my thanks for all the regular contributors.
I purchased my kit on 11/11/94 I was young, newly married and owned a small
house. Here I am almost 8 years later and I have 2 children, a large house
that was built in 1909 and needs allot of work. I have come to the
realization that I am too young to be building an airplane (too many
distractions) but luckily I am too far down the road to give up now. I do
not have allot of money so my goal has been to build the best plane I can
for as little as possible. I purchased some instruments, seats and seat
belts for Rick Liberstat after he crashed his MKIII years ago. My plane
will have the minimum instruments its needs to be legal and safe. I have
built my plane using only hand tools and a well worn manual rivet puller. I
paid $7,608 for the kit including full enclosure and matco brakes, I am
thinking I will get into the air for less than $15,000 including parachute
and tools purchased. Hey, I guess it will average out to about $1,500 a
year after all is said and done. I am an avid web surfer so all the on-line
information you folks have put out there has been of great use to me and
thanks again for all your help. Hey Larry, don't let me beat you into the
air. Anyone who has input on the enclosure thing, please let me know what
you think.
Jason Omelchuck
MKIII
Portland OR
JASON OMELCHUCK
ACUITY INCORPORATED
PHONE 503.221.6995 x 102
FAX 503.221.3139
www.acuityinc.com <http://www.acuityinc.com/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Full enclosures |
At one time in the past, Kolb had plans for a Lexan MKIII rear enclosure
designed where the fuselage sides extended right up to the lower surface of
the gap seal. The fuselage shape then became about the same as John Hauck's
MKIII. Those were kind of nice because you could see through them, have
them in during the winter and it was not cold & drafty, and then during the
summer you could take them out fairly easily and just have the whole rear
area open, which was also nice, but noisier. If I did not have my present
situation with the radiator at the back end of the cabin ducting, I would
probably use that arrangement.
I still have the plans for those side enclosures, and if there is enough
interest, I can put them on my web page, since this is a question that
comes up occasionally.
Let me know.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> All this talk about vortex generators and flow fences makes me wonder what
>to install. I am currently to the point of finishing my gap seal and
>enclosure on my MKIII. My goal is to keep the aircraft as simple as
>possible. I am installing a permanent gap seal as I will have some switches
>and such installed in the gap seal. I have also installed stock doors and
>since I did not like Kolbs rear flexible enclosure I have installed Lexan in
>the rear side window area. I was thinking of covering the area around the
>fuel tanks like recommended, then I started to think that maybe I would just
>put a "wall" right behind the seats and leave the entire aft area open, this
>would leave the entire area for about 3 feet in front of the prop with
>nothing but tubing and a very blunt cut off where the cabin ends. I don't
>mind the open frame look. I was wondering what the best aerodynamic option
>is with a full enclosure and what some of you would have done with your
>enclosures if you had to do it over again.
>Jason Omelchuck
>MKIII
>Portland OR
>
>
>JASON OMELCHUCK
>ACUITY INCORPORATED
>PHONE 503.221.6995 x 102
>FAX 503.221.3139
>www.acuityinc.com <http://www.acuityinc.com/>
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Full enclosures |
Good for you, Jason...........perseverance pays off. (Look who's talking)
I believe we exchanged emails several years ago, but we never followed thru.
I've built a full enclosure, believing this to be (slightly) more
aerodynamic. Honest..........when it cools down a bit, (John, I know you
have more humidity, but we've been getting 113+ in the shade
lately......murderous) this thing will be finished. In the meantime, I've
been following the thread about the flow fences, etc., with great interest.
I had thought seriously about tapering the back of the enclosure to a point,
as the fella in Texas showed a couple of years ago. (Durned
memory.......can't remember his name now, but he published a good picture of
it) Seems like anything like that should help. The analogy of a pick'm up
truck on the highway comes to mind...........open the tailgate, drag is
reduced, and gas mileage goes up. Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Omelchuck" <jason(at)acuityinc.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Full enclosures
>
>
> All this talk about vortex generators and flow fences makes me wonder
what
> to install. I am currently to the point of finishing my gap seal and
> enclosure on my MKIII. My goal is to keep the aircraft as simple as
> possible. I am installing a permanent gap seal as I will have some
switches
> and such installed in the gap seal. I have also installed stock doors and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Full enclosures |
I have a permanent full enclosure, I had the old Kolb install two tubes
on the top of the fuselage so that I could cover the entire rear
enclosure. In my demo flight it struck me that a hat coming off or
anything else loose in the cockpit might end up going through the prop.
Also for 9 months of the year in Michigan it is a bit warmer so I like
it. I gave my 1st ride to a friend a week ago that flies a 912 powered
MKIII, he commented how quiet my plane is so the rear enclosure helps
reduce noise also.
Also I added VGs to the wide part of the fuselage (the rear edge of the
doors) last week end. I put three VGs on each door. I couldn't detect
any performance differences or handling differences but I did notice
that it was quieter. My first clue was that the local control tower was
just blaring in my ears. Its still noisy but much better.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> richard(at)bcchapel.org 07/09/02 01:38PM >>>
At one time in the past, Kolb had plans for a Lexan MKIII rear
enclosure
designed where the fuselage sides extended right up to the lower
surface of
the gap seal. The fuselage shape then became about the same as John
Hauck's
MKIII. Those were kind of nice because you could see through them,
have
them in during the winter and it was not cold & drafty, and then during
the
summer you could take them out fairly easily and just have the whole
rear
area open, which was also nice, but noisier. If I did not have my
present
situation with the radiator at the back end of the cabin ducting, I
would
probably use that arrangement.
I still have the plans for those side enclosures, and if there is
enough
interest, I can put them on my web page, since this is a question that
comes up occasionally.
Let me know.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>
> All this talk about vortex generators and flow fences makes me wonder
what
>to install. I am currently to the point of finishing my gap seal and
>enclosure on my MKIII. My goal is to keep the aircraft as simple as
>possible. I am installing a permanent gap seal as I will have some
switches
>and such installed in the gap seal. I have also installed stock doors
and
>since I did not like Kolbs rear flexible enclosure I have installed
Lexan in
>the rear side window area. I was thinking of covering the area around
the
>fuel tanks like recommended, then I started to think that maybe I
would just
>put a "wall" right behind the seats and leave the entire aft area
open, this
>would leave the entire area for about 3 feet in front of the prop
with
>nothing but tubing and a very blunt cut off where the cabin ends. I
don't
>mind the open frame look. I was wondering what the best aerodynamic
option
>is with a full enclosure and what some of you would have done with
your
>enclosures if you had to do it over again.
>Jason Omelchuck
>MKIII
>Portland OR
>
>
>JASON OMELCHUCK
>ACUITY INCORPORATED
>PHONE 503.221.6995 x 102
>FAX 503.221.3139
>www.acuityinc.com <http://www.acuityinc.com/>
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Rear enclosure plans |
I went ahead and added a webpage with the plans for the old original Kolb
rear Lexan enclosure for the MKIII.
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/Lexan rear enclosure.html
If that link doesn't work, try
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/kolb.htm
The link will be at the bottom of the page
Warning: In order to get the details big enough to read, I had to make
everything BIG!
Broad band loads it OK, but if you have dial-up, you're gonna hate me...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
> The price is FIRM. Exactly what he has invested.$6,500Contact: Robert
> RayowCoxsackie, NY518-731-7573
Plane has been sold. On the market 1 day !!
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re:2 speed trany |
I was wondering if anyone had thoughts on an engine set up
with a two speed
transmission of some kind.
================================
my brother reports that a friend of his in washington is
working out the bugs on a snowmobile clutch assembly on a
plane.... i will have to ask if it changes only the rpm
or the pitch on the prop or maby both...
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Aftbody Aerodynamics |
Big Lar wrote:
< The analogy of a pick'm up truck on the highway comes to
mind...........open the tailgate, drag is reduced, and gas mileage goes up.
Gogittum Lar. >
Big Lar, and Others -
Actually, the OPPOSITE is true, contrary to much popular belief.
I saw a study where this very test was done on a pickup (open tailgate
less drag vs. closed tailgate = more drag). They used yarn tufts and
hi-speed camaras - just like in real airplane airflow studies, all very well
instrumented. Outcome showed that closed tailgate produced less drag than
an open one.
Reason given was (in easy terms): With the tailgate closed, air will dam up
upstream of the tailgate and stagnate there (in the bed volume), and this
blob of eddying, slow moving air acts like a dome, allowing the freestream
air coming from over the cab to flow smoothly over the top of bed and
tailgate. With the tailgate open, the freestream is sucked down to the bed
bottom level and squeezed thru the tailgate gap. Air rushing past the
abrupt end of the bed walls makes drag.
Another related misconception: The popular Yakima roof-top cargo pods ...
you've all seen them - with the aerodynamic shape. We always see them
mounted narrow end forward. Because this just "looks" right. Like the
front of an airplane. Well friends, the tapered Yakima (or any other brand)
cargo pod produces less drag if mounted tapered end aft. Doing it this way
helps bend the air coming off the car back toward the center. Pointy-end
forward only makes for a blunter AFT end, and air will swirl and tumble and
create drag from it.
In aerodynamics, the big concern about drag is smoothing the air out nicely
after the airplane has passed thru it. If a surface that air is flowing
over suddendly comes to an abrupt end (or turns a sharp corner), the air
spills off and becomes turbulent, and that creates lots of drag.
Afterbody aerodynamics was one of the things New Kolb sought to improve on
the Mk-III Extra. A less abrupt bend at the sides, and a bit longer aft
body helped reduce much of the drag of the Mark-III Classic. (among other
improvements)
I believe this is the topic that Jason Omelchuck is wrestling with right
now. It seems the full enclosure on a Mk-III, with its blunt wall behind
the pilots, would create a lot of drag. Right, Richard Pike?
Dennis Kirby
Mk-3, N93DK, Verner, taxi-tests done, gathering the nerve to perform first
flight in Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable Props |
Listers, I sent this on 7-8-02, but did not see it appear on the List,
so I am re-sending it.
Rick & All,
I too have been searching for an inflight adjustable prop. Ivo's UL
version is the lightest & cheapest. Apparently he solved the mechanical
wear problem & the flex problem can be solved with a spacer, but as I
understand it, they do not perform well at speeds above 85mph. Ivo has a
new middle weight prop out that has a whole different look to it. Does
anyone have any real life data on it?
I've seen several other props, but most of them have been in the 4-6
thousand $ range and 25+ lbs.
So far, the only high performance, reasonable weight & priced 3-bladed
inflight adjustable prop that I've found is made by Arplast
(www.arplast-helice.com ). It was a work of art. I saw it at Sun & Fun. It
weighed 17lbs & sold for $2200.
There's another prop company, CGS I believe ( I forget the initials),
that's distributed by ASAP out of Canada. They offer a 2-blade only version
that is quite light & over $2000 3 yrs ago when I bought one. Before using
it, I changed redrives & needed to go with a right hand prop. They refused
to exchange the still in the box prop & offered to give me only 25% of my
purchase price. Since then, I learned they had some problems with their
mechanism. Even if the problems were resolved, I could never recommend that
company.
Anyone have other suggestions for a 3-blade inflight adjustable prop? I
will need one to match the broad, high torque of my turbo Suzuki. I am
still waiting to get health back before I can go back to work on it.
Richard Swiderski
SlingShot
Sea Doo watercraft engine (needs a new home)
(snip)....It appears I will need to repitch my prop for solo cross country
flying. It seems like I saw a in flight adjustable pitch prop hub that uses
power fin blades at Oshkosh last year does anyone know what their name is?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftbody Aerodynamics |
> In aerodynamics, the big concern about drag is smoothing the air out
nicely
> after the airplane has passed thru it. If a surface that air is flowing
> over suddendly comes to an abrupt end (or turns a sharp corner), the air
> spills off and becomes turbulent, and that creates lots of drag.
>
> Afterbody aerodynamics was one of the things New Kolb sought to improve on
> the Mk-III Extra. A less abrupt bend at the sides, and a bit longer aft
> body helped reduce much of the drag of the Mark-III Classic. (among other
> improvements)
>
This must be why most airplanes have the propeller in the front? :o)
Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftbody Aerodynamics |
I have said that making the aft end aerodynamic is more important than
the front end. My analogy was standing beside a highway when a truck goes
by. You are more likely to be sucked in after it passes than blown away as
it gets to you. Check out the book "The Ultimate Paper Airplane" It shows
the development of a stepped airfoil. The abrupt step drew the air into the
wing at stall speeds keeping it attached longer and minimizing the stall. I
am making the back of my fuselage 18" wide and then stepping down just past
the aileron horns to a tapered part that extends another 6 inches but is
only 6" wide at the base. My theory is the air will stay attached to the
sides longer minimizing drag and then as it leaves the sides and before it
can really get mixed up it is picked up by the prop and accelerated
backwards as thrust. Thats my theory anyhow and I'm sticking to it. Can't
change now unless it really screws me up.
>Big Lar wrote:
>< The analogy of a pick'm up truck on the highway comes to
>mind...........open the tailgate, drag is reduced, and gas mileage goes up.
>Gogittum Lar. >
>
>Big Lar, and Others -
>
>Actually, the OPPOSITE is true, contrary to much popular belief.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plane for sale |
At that price even I was tempted to buy it.
> > The price is FIRM. Exactly what he has invested.$6,500Contact: Robert
> > RayowCoxsackie, NY518-731-7573
>
> Plane has been sold. On the market 1 day !!
> Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftbody Aerodynamics |
>
>
> I have said that making the aft end aerodynamic is more important than
>the front end.
I've always wondered about this.... and then wondered if I put an
angle-iron (or stiff plastic equivalent) at the trailing edge of the
enclosure, thus creating a dammed up roll of air at that point along the
length of the corner, whether that wouldn't be better than just a sharp
corner. ???????
-- Robert
Very crude, but... this instead of this
------------------##### -----------------
|##### |
|## | air flow
|## |
|## |
|## | / \
| | !
| | !
| | !
| | !
| |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Verner Engine on Mk III |
In a message dated 7/10/02 2:43:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil writes:
> Dennis Kirby
> Mk-3, N93DK, Verner, taxi-tests done, gathering the nerve to perform first
> flight in Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
>
I recently saw a Mk III with a Verner engine at a fly-in; there was a
placard on the engine that said "79 kg" or somewhere around there. I thought
that seemed pretty heavy, then I saw the take-off........that thing climbed
like a rocket and sounded great!
I have a Firestar II with 503 dual carb. that I'm pretty satisfied with. I
would be more satisfied with about 65 horsepower. Any reason the airframe
wouldn't handle that?
I know, the Vne is 90 mph- not a problem.
If I were rich, I might try one of those pesky Hirth 3203's; 65 hp, 82 lbs
with exhaust & elec. start [maybe that doesn't include the gearbox. Still,
not much more than a 503 dc].
Of course, I'd have fuel injection.
And then, there's the Zanzoterra equivalent to the above Hirth engine, of
which, I have seen one flying. Only two problems, a leaky gearbox gasket
and one of the ignition wires vibrated in-two [think I heard of this problem
on some Hirth's]. Maybe a little cheaper than a Hirth.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Would be nice if you could fly an unlicenced ultralight into Canadian
airspace,but they won't let it happen.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftbody Aerodynamics |
Afterbody= rear end. If this is better, then why don't we just fly with
our "afterbodies' facing forward?
Bob N. always questioning new fangled theory
do not (even try to) archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftbody Aerodynamics |
Sounds like a song by Creedence Clearwater:
"I see a bad moon risin..."
rp
(the nauseated Old Poop...)
>
>
>Afterbody= rear end. If this is better, then why don't we just fly with
>our "afterbodies' facing forward?
>
>Bob N. always questioning new fangled theory
>
>do not (even try to) archive
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com> |
Hey Kolbers!
I'm done with my 7 rib wing build project. I purchased a "wings only"
kit from Kolb and picked it up in Kentucky on the 1st of May, drilled
the first hole and pulled the first rivet on the 11th of May and
attached the completed wings on the fuselage on the 9th of July. Took
me 2-1/2 months and a little over 335 hours to build, cover and paint
the wings. Also cost me right at $5500 for the whole project.
Naturally, the old aileron control tubes were not the correct length,
but a quick call to the guys at Kolb and an overnight UPS shipment got
them to me this morning. The guys at Kolb dropped what they were doing
and welded a set of tubes late in the day and in short order. I'll
install 'em tomorrow morning and do the first flight.
I've got to give praise to Kolb for all their help on this project.
They were very prompt in answering all my dumb questions and held my
hand when it needed holding. This was the first "wings only" kit
they've produced, so the few times items were needed but not included in
the kit, they shipped it- they even shipped some things overnight at
their expense when the missing item was needed the next day. Linda,
Ray and Travis were very responsive and I'm glad they were there to
support the effort.
Kudos also go out to Jim and Dondi Miller- Aircraft Technical Support-
for the fabric and Poly Fiber painting supplies. They were always by
the phone and pleasantly answered all the questions I had; some at odd
hours. They were prompt with solutions to my problems and shipped
items when needed.
I also want to give a big "Thank You" to John Williamson (just completed
and flew his King Kolbra) for all the help, tools and general "stuff" he
most graciously loaned/gave me when I needed it. The whole project was
more enjoyable and correct because of his assistance. He's the main
reason that the fabric and painting looks as good as it does. He also
pitched in and helped when I fitted the wings to the airframe before
covering (along with Wayland Neeper) and again when I attached the
finished wings yesterday. Now, I'm looking forward to flying with him-
if I can keep up with his King Kolbra!
So, I'm almost back in the air and one of my goals for this year is to
actually fly to a fly-in!!
I'll post some pictures to the photo site after I get tired of flying...
*********************
Ken W. Korenek
ken-foi(at)attbi.com
Kolb FireStar II, "My Mistress"
Rotax 503, Oil Injected
3 Blade Powerfin
New 7 Rib Wings Ready for First Flight!!
Six Chuter SR7-XL
Powered Parachute
Rotax 582, Oil Injected
3 Blade PowerFin
4906 Oak Springs Drive
Arlington, Texas 76016
817-572-6832 voice
817-572-6842 fax
817-657-6500 cell
817-483-8054 home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Ray indicated that TNK is now installing a pan under the
sling seats,
apparently similar to what John H has recommended.
================================================
i am rebuilding with some seats out of a piper tomahalk
they will snap in and out in just a few seconds they
should give me a bit more padding and are a lot more
comfortable.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aftbody Aerodynamics |
I can't argue the point, cause I'm not an engineer, just going by popular
belief.............and your words are a relief too, in a
way............cause I never bother lowering the tailgate when I get on the
freeway. Lazy Lar...........?? However, one fella on the
www.dodge-diesel.org forum did some serious experimenting, and came up with
this: lowering the tailgate made no measurable difference that he could
see, BUT - removing the tailgate completely gave him an extra 1 - 2 miles
per gallon........on a long bed pickup. Apparently it didn't work as well
on a short bed. ????? Baffled Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Kolb-List: Aftbody Aerodynamics
>
> Big Lar wrote:
> < The analogy of a pick'm up truck on the highway comes to
> mind...........open the tailgate, drag is reduced, and gas mileage goes
up.
> Gogittum Lar. >
>
> Big Lar, and Others -
>
> Actually, the OPPOSITE is true, contrary to much popular belief.
>
> I saw a study where this very test was done on a pickup (open tailgate
> less drag vs. closed tailgate = more drag). They used yarn tufts and
> hi-speed camaras - just like in real airplane airflow studies, all very
well
> instrumented. Outcome showed that closed tailgate produced less drag than
> an open one.
>
> Reason given was (in easy terms): With the tailgate closed, air will dam
up
> upstream of the tailgate and stagnate there (in the bed volume), and this
> blob of eddying, slow moving air acts like a dome, allowing the freestream
> air coming from over the cab to flow smoothly over the top of bed and
> tailgate. With the tailgate open, the freestream is sucked down to the
bed
> bottom level and squeezed thru the tailgate gap. Air rushing past the
> abrupt end of the bed walls makes drag.
>
> Another related misconception: The popular Yakima roof-top cargo pods ...
> you've all seen them - with the aerodynamic shape. We always see them
> mounted narrow end forward. Because this just "looks" right. Like the
> front of an airplane. Well friends, the tapered Yakima (or any other
brand)
> cargo pod produces less drag if mounted tapered end aft. Doing it this
way
> helps bend the air coming off the car back toward the center. Pointy-end
> forward only makes for a blunter AFT end, and air will swirl and tumble
and
> create drag from it.
>
> In aerodynamics, the big concern about drag is smoothing the air out
nicely
> after the airplane has passed thru it. If a surface that air is flowing
> over suddendly comes to an abrupt end (or turns a sharp corner), the air
> spills off and becomes turbulent, and that creates lots of drag.
>
> Afterbody aerodynamics was one of the things New Kolb sought to improve on
> the Mk-III Extra. A less abrupt bend at the sides, and a bit longer aft
> body helped reduce much of the drag of the Mark-III Classic. (among other
> improvements)
>
> I believe this is the topic that Jason Omelchuck is wrestling with right
> now. It seems the full enclosure on a Mk-III, with its blunt wall behind
> the pilots, would create a lot of drag. Right, Richard Pike?
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mk-3, N93DK, Verner, taxi-tests done, gathering the nerve to perform first
> flight in Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Harrrr............you want us to wait till you're tired of flying it, before
you send pics ?? You betcha ! ! ! Sure you don't want us to hold our
breath while we wait ?? :-) :-) Impatient Lar. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Korenek" <ken-foi(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: 7 Rib Wings
>
> Hey Kolbers!
>
>
> I'm done with my 7 rib wing build project. I purchased a "wings only"
> kit from Kolb and picked it up in Kentucky on the 1st of May, drilled
> the first hole and pulled the first rivet on the 11th of May and
> attached the completed wings on the fuselage on the 9th of July. Took
> me 2-1/2 months and a little over 335 hours to build, cover and paint
> the wings. Also cost me right at $5500 for the whole project.
>
> Naturally, the old aileron control tubes were not the correct length,
> but a quick call to the guys at Kolb and an overnight UPS shipment got
> them to me this morning. The guys at Kolb dropped what they were doing
> and welded a set of tubes late in the day and in short order. I'll
> install 'em tomorrow morning and do the first flight.
>
> I've got to give praise to Kolb for all their help on this project.
> They were very prompt in answering all my dumb questions and held my
> hand when it needed holding. This was the first "wings only" kit
> they've produced, so the few times items were needed but not included in
> the kit, they shipped it- they even shipped some things overnight at
> their expense when the missing item was needed the next day. Linda,
> Ray and Travis were very responsive and I'm glad they were there to
> support the effort.
>
> Kudos also go out to Jim and Dondi Miller- Aircraft Technical Support-
> for the fabric and Poly Fiber painting supplies. They were always by
> the phone and pleasantly answered all the questions I had; some at odd
> hours. They were prompt with solutions to my problems and shipped
> items when needed.
>
> I also want to give a big "Thank You" to John Williamson (just completed
> and flew his King Kolbra) for all the help, tools and general "stuff" he
> most graciously loaned/gave me when I needed it. The whole project was
> more enjoyable and correct because of his assistance. He's the main
> reason that the fabric and painting looks as good as it does. He also
> pitched in and helped when I fitted the wings to the airframe before
> covering (along with Wayland Neeper) and again when I attached the
> finished wings yesterday. Now, I'm looking forward to flying with him-
> if I can keep up with his King Kolbra!
>
> So, I'm almost back in the air and one of my goals for this year is to
> actually fly to a fly-in!!
>
> I'll post some pictures to the photo site after I get tired of flying...
>
>
> *********************
> Ken W. Korenek
>
> ken-foi(at)attbi.com
>
>
> Kolb FireStar II, "My Mistress"
> Rotax 503, Oil Injected
> 3 Blade Powerfin
>
> New 7 Rib Wings Ready for First Flight!!
>
>
> Six Chuter SR7-XL
> Powered Parachute
> Rotax 582, Oil Injected
> 3 Blade PowerFin
>
>
> 4906 Oak Springs Drive
> Arlington, Texas 76016
>
> 817-572-6832 voice
> 817-572-6842 fax
> 817-657-6500 cell
> 817-483-8054 home
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fw: Blair wants to know if he should switch to a Slingshot |
| From: | Joseph B Stevenson <mandosoul(at)juno.com> |
--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Joseph B Stevenson <MANDOSOUL(at)juno.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 00:07:27 -0600
Subject: Blair wants to know if he should switch to a Slingshot
Hi, I'm new to this board, my name is Blair . I have a question,actually
I'd like to get some opinions from experienced Kolb pilots especially
those who are familier with the Slingshot. I'm about a 100 hour pilot and
I've been flying a Quicksilver GT-500 from the beginning . I love the
plane but I want to move up to something with a faster cruise,and better
climb,not that the GT -500 doesn't climb well it does,but I live in
Colorado Springs Colorado,my airport is at 6,875ft. ,we're on the very
edge of the rocky mountains ,and I love flying in them. Problem is I
never go very deep into them because I don't feel I've got the necessary
performance envelope required to handle what ever might come up ,up
there, so i'm considering a Kolb Slingshot with a Rotax 912 on it ,as the
possibility of getting one has come up .My Questions are, will there be a
long and dangerous learning curve going from the very docile tri -gear
GT500 to the tail dragging " mosquito on acid" as described by a Kolb
rep. himself,when I asked him about the Slingshots performance.? Now I,m
doing quite well in progressing as a pilot ,but am I asking to much of
myself to soon?Am I over reacting? Maybe these birds are wonderfull and I
just need a little practice. I,m sure It would'nt take long to learn to
taxi it,take it off ,but land it ? you only get one first try. Anyway if
any one could offer advice, experience in the plane itself , or even a"
you're nuts' whatever would be appreciated. Tkanks
Blair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh AirVenture 2002 |
I will be attending this event for the entire period. I have
volunteered the work with the "Protect Our Planes" committee, and will
be in the ultralight section on various shifts, mostly from 2pm-6pm. I
hope to meet many of the List People who are in attendance during that
period of time.
If there is going to be a meeting of KOLB flyers during the event I
would like to know the time and location.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
Mark III Xtra under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
What approach speed and RPM during approach should I use for my FireStar II
with a 503? Also what is the recommended climb speed after takeoff?
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Verner Engine on Mk III - more HP |
The latest issue of Ultralight Flying mag has an article on a new type of
spark plug that is supposed to increase HP and reduce wieght /increase
reliablilty. This might be an inexpensive partial answer for you. Also
there was talk of "tuned" exhaust systems for Rotax a while back that was
supposed to increase HP without changing weight. Anyone try either of these
yet? If they do as claimed, the combined increase in juice would just about
give you the power you want.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bill-jo" <bill-jo(at)prodigy.net> |
Hey Gang
I need help in selecting a pair of headphones that will work in
my MK111. I have a Icom A-22 handheld radio that I am using on a knee
pad and I am using a Softcom intercom that is compatable with the A-22.
I have been trying to use a pair of SoftCom headphones and they pick up
the engine and prop noise so much that with the squelch wont override
the noise.
Would like to know what you guy's are using. I have been told that
LiteSpeed Model 20 K will work. Let me know what I need.
Thanks Bill Futrell
MK111Xtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Head phonesa |
----- Original Message -----
From: "bill-jo" <bill-jo(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Head phonesa
>
>
> Hey Gang
>
> I need help in selecting a pair of headphones that will work in
> my MK111. I have a Icom A-22 handheld radio that I am using on a knee
> pad and I am using a Softcom intercom that is compatable with the A-22.
> I have been trying to use a pair of SoftCom headphones and they pick up
> the engine and prop noise so much that with the squelch wont override
> the noise.
> Would like to know what you guy's are using. I have been told that
> LiteSpeed Model 20 K will work. Let me know what I need.
>
> Thanks Bill Futrell
> MK111Xtra
I have a DRE6000 with electronic noise reduction and really like them,
especially since they are only $299, about the cheapest ANR headset around.
Works great in the planes I have been flying, including our Mazda rotary
engined RV-6A, which gives a new meaning to loud when the muffler is shot.
check them out at www.DREcomm.com
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Blair wants to know if he should switch to a Slingshot |
Blair,
I presently have a SlingShot & previously owned an UltraStar & then a
MKII. The transition from the US to the MKII was minimal but the transition
to the SS was significant. It was not overwhelming, just very different.
My 1st impression was that it was a thrill to fly. I felt like an otter in
the water, I would just think it & the SS would just do it. The control
authority & response is tremendous. I felt instantly at home with it.
However that little wing which gives it that fighter like feel, has to work
a lot harder, and this is what contributed to my 2 biggest adjustments.
1st, the sink rate was much steeper. When I was practicing deadsticks, I
consistantly came up way short of my target. 2ndly, my landings, instead of
grease jobs, were bouncing. I was frustrated that I couldn't consistantly
grease a landing.
My buddy attributed it to me being Polish. I didn't have an answer at
1st. Some of it was due to it being relatively short coupled & me inducing
pitch oscillation, but I adjusted to that quickly enough & still wasn't
greasing them. The dead sticking is what helped me figure it out. (My
reasoning & observations may not be valid.) I noticed that if I glided in
close to Vstall, I'd come up way short of my percieved touch down spot. If
I glided at 10mph over Vstall, I did much better. My hypothesis was that
because of the SS's relatively smaller wing area, it has a greater angle of
attack at slow speeds, therefore greater induced drag & therefore it sank at
a more accelorated rate close to stall than the more lightly wing loaded US
& MKII. Once I anticipated the sinkrate accelorating close to stall, my
bouncing problem went away.
To answer your question, my opinion would be that the 912/SlingShot
would be a great aircraft in your location. I would say a competant pilot
with a 100hrs in a GT-500 looking for a higher performance aircraft, could
easily & responsibly transition into a SlingShot, maybe even easier than I
did. Let me know if you get it.
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: Blair wants to know if he should switch to a
Slingshot
> snip<
> just need a little practice. I,m sure It would'nt take long to learn to
> taxi it,take it off ,but land it ? you only get one first try. Anyway if
> any one could offer advice, experience in the plane itself , or even a"
> you're nuts' whatever would be appreciated. Tkanks
> Blair
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Head phonesa |
Bill, I spent upwards of 2000 grand before I found a good headset for my MK3
(912) . The solution was Sigtronics. They work great and good people to
work with, they will help with any problem that you might have. I passed
this on to John H. and I believe they are what he wore to Alaska. Give them
a call, I don't think you can go wrong..
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Arkansas
----- Original Message -----
From: "bill-jo" <bill-jo(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Head phonesa
>
>
> Hey Gang
>
> I need help in selecting a pair of headphones that will work in
> my MK111. I have a Icom A-22 handheld radio that I am using on a knee
> pad and I am using a Softcom intercom that is compatable with the A-22.
> I have been trying to use a pair of SoftCom headphones and they pick up
> the engine and prop noise so much that with the squelch wont override
> the noise.
> Would like to know what you guy's are using. I have been told that
> LiteSpeed Model 20 K will work. Let me know what I need.
>
> Thanks Bill Futrell
> MK111Xtra
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | 582 and Headset guy |
You can probably send your Softcom unit back and tell them to put in the
high noise filter in. I think they said it would cost around 30 dollars. If
you do please tell us if it worked. I haven't done it yet. I have a
sigtronics unit but have not ordered the filter yet.
Rotax 582. I had a similar problem. No spark. I also had voltage on the
meter. I took the engine off the plane and removed the starter and flywheel.
When I pulled the fly wheel I saw that some thing
had torn up the magneto coil. The tangled copper coils were sending an
eletrical charge but not correctly. I bought a new coil and a new fly wheel
kept the old pickups put it back together and it fired right up. I have 45
hours since and no problems. There was no hint to why the coil was torn up.
Dave Key
Texas
Mark III
For information on the lowest priced web site design please contact me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Head phonesa |
Before we all chime in on a favorite ANR headsets, is the problem your
having trying to transmit on the radio? This seems to be a common
problem and can be helped by getting a good noise canceling mike and
reducing power when you want to talk.
If you are talking about just flying along and hearing a lot of noise
through the intercom then maybe you need to check on a better intercom.
I have a DRE intercom which has individual squelch circuits for each
headset which seems to help.
If you are talking about the noise you get even with the headset plugs
disconnected then a ANR headset will help. I have had good luck with a
ANR kit that I added to my existing headset and at $160 I believe it is
the least expensive.
My $.02 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIII
>>> bill-jo(at)prodigy.net 07/11/02 02:29PM >>>
Hey Gang
I need help in selecting a pair of headphones that will work in
my MK111. I have a Icom A-22 handheld radio that I am using on a knee
pad and I am using a Softcom intercom that is compatable with the
A-22.
I have been trying to use a pair of SoftCom headphones and they pick
up
the engine and prop noise so much that with the squelch wont override
the noise.
Would like to know what you guy's are using. I have been told
that
LiteSpeed Model 20 K will work. Let me know what I need.
Thanks Bill Futrell
MK111Xtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
>___________________________________________________________________________
_____
>
> I need help in selecting a pair of headphones that will work in
>my MK111. I have a Icom A-22 handheld radio that I am using on a knee
>pad and I am using a Softcom intercom that is compatable with the A-22.
>I have been told that LiteSpeed Model 20 K will work. snip...
> Thanks Bill Futrell
> MK111Xtra
Hey Bill,
I am using the LIGHTSPEED SOLO with a Icom A-3 and a Flightech enhanced
noise reduction intercom ITC-401.
I can highly recommend the SOLO at $145.- at Aircraft Spruce.
See review at www.avionicswest.com/articles/solo.htm
see Intercom at www.inflightusa.com/tech/o.tech_3.html
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Xtra
BMW powered
58 Hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Head phonesa |
>
>
> Hey Gang
>
> I need help in selecting a pair of headphones that will work in
>my MK111. I have a Icom A-22 handheld radio that I am using on a knee
>pad and I am using a Softcom intercom that is compatable with the A-22.
>I have been trying to use a pair of SoftCom headphones and they pick up
>the engine and prop noise so much that with the squelch wont override
>the noise.
> Would like to know what you guy's are using. I have been told that
>LiteSpeed Model 20 K will work. Let me know what I need.
>
> Thanks Bill Futrell
> MK111Xtra
>
Bill,
I use a Lightspeed ANR head set. I had the same problem and I called
Lightspeed. They sent an up grade cord that I could install and it solved
the problem and all at no cost to me. Give SoftCom a call. You are
probably not the first to have had this problem and they may have a fix.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re:277 needs airframe |
Ted
If I had a 277, I would sell it and get a two cylinder Rotax to fly
with. I have owned and flown with a 277 as well as a 5 other engines
including a Cuyuna, a pair of 377's, a 447 and a 503. The 277 was the
worst and it was new when I got it. I flew it for 70 hours and it never
made it more than 10 hours without a problem. I was also a member of an
ultralight club and it seemed that 277 users had more problems than others.
John Jung
http://jrjung.0catch.com/Firestar.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
Ron,
I use 50 mph for climb and approach on my 503 powered Firestar II. The
rpm on approach is usually between 3500 and 4000.
John Jung
Ron or Mary wrote:
>
>What approach speed and RPM during approach should I use for my FireStar II
>with a 503? Also what is the recommended climb speed after takeoff?
>
>Ron Payne
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Blair wants to know if he should switch to a Slingshot |
Blair,
You didn't mention your trainning. Just 100 hours on a GT500 may not
prepare you for a Slingshot. If you have your PPL, go for the Slingshot.
If you don't, I suggest that you get your flying skills checked by an
instructor and ask him what he suggests.
John Jung
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| From: | Jason Omelchuck <jason(at)acuityinc.com> |
| Subject: | Full enclosure aerodynamics |
To follow up an a question I posted not so eloquently, what do people think
the aerodynamic ramifications would be of installing a "wall" from the
bottom of the gap seal to the to the landing gear cross member, this would
fully enclose the cabin. I would then not cover anything behind this wall,
including the area around the fuel tanks. My guess is it would not really
change anything as the covered area around the fuel tanks is so
unaerodynamic even when it is covered. What do you all think!
JASON OMELCHUCK
ACUITY INCORPORATED
PHONE 503.221.6995 x 102
FAX 503.221.3139
www.acuityinc.com <http://www.acuityinc.com/>
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| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Full enclosure aerodynamics |
a "wall" from the
> bottom of the gap seal to the to the landing gear cross member, this would
Nah, would make it easier to heat the cabin up here in Michigan though. I
got kind of radical idea of my own on improving the airflow. If it don't
work you'll read about it in the papers probably. LOL If it works it will
be one small step for man but a giant leap for
mankind..........LOLOL.......Kirk
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| Subject: | Remove From Mailing List |
June 19, 2002 - July 12, 2002
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dq