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Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dt
August 06, 2002 - August 23, 2002

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From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Sept Fly In
Date: Aug 06, 2002
I hope to be, but I'm probably only honestly at about a 50% probability at this point. Largely that's due to the cost. Having just purchased my Mark II, and spending money like I own the press tweaking it, it may just not be possible this year. -Ken ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charles" <chieppa47(at)attbi.com> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Sept Fly In > > Hi All, > > I am going to the Sept Fly in (The New KOLB Aircraft) and was wondering how > many others will be there. > > Charles > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Sept Fly In
I'm planning to be there, it the WX cooperates. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >Hi All, > >I am going to the Sept Fly in (The New KOLB Aircraft) and was wondering how >many others will be there. > >Charles > > >--- >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Sept Fly In
> I'm planning to be there, it the WX cooperates. > Richard Pike Same here. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2002
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: disk brakes?
Hey, It is great to touch base again with you guys from the list going way back. Digging up some of those good ol favorite subjects -- EGT at the Y, and Seafoam -- I figure this gives me the liberty to bring up brakes. Go ahead, sigh, roll your eyes! Heck, your finger is probably twitching right over that delete key. But I'm bringin it up anyway! :) I'm wondering if anyone knows of people trying bicycle disc brakes on an ultralight. I've just checked at a local bike shop and read a couple reviews. It looks like a company called Avid makes a mechanical caliper and disc set that is very highly regarded, and goes for about $100, i.e. $200 for a pair of brakes, plus cables. Hydraulics are about double that, add more brake modulation, but not more stopping power. Like the cyclists, we like our stuff light. My flying weight is not a lot over a heavily loaded tandem bike. As well, I figure I need less braking power than the tandem coming down a very long hill at 50mph. So it seems they might work well on a single place UL. Anyway, since I seem hopelessly hooked on trying brake experiments instead of just buying what others know work well, I think I'll try this experiment too unless anyone here talks me out of it. BTW, George and Ralph, Hope you won't be done with me if I tell you I had changed from a single EGT at the Y to double sensors. My compulsion to do this came from actually getting engine failures, which I had eventually traced to air leaks mostly on the PTO exhaust port. I think my relationship with 2-strokes is not a healthy one -- we needlessly fuss with each other more than we should. Ack. -Ben ===== http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom http://health.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: disk brakes?
Mike Shackleford was the first one to bring up the idea of using bicycle disc brakes on a FireStar. I thought it sounded like a good idea. I checked with the local bicycle shop and there just happened to be a bicycle manufactures rep there. We discussed the subject and came up with the Avid cable disc brake as the best way to go. No master cylinder to have to mount. I have a set of these brakes here now and am starting to work on the application. A local aircraft speciality shop is going to make the adapter plates for me. These brakes are very well made and I can see no reason why they will not be a vast improvement over the drum brakes that I have now. If you decide to go this route, keep us posted and I will do the same. Ron Payne -------Original Message------- From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Date: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 12:56:16 AM Subject: Kolb-List: disk brakes? Hey, It is great to touch base again with you guys from the list going way back. Digging up some of those good ol favorite subjects -- EGT at the Y, and Seafoam -- I figure this gives me the liberty to bring up brakes. Go ahead, sigh, roll your eyes! Heck, your finger is probably twitching right over that delete key. But I'm bringin it up anyway! :) I'm wondering if anyone knows of people trying bicycle disc brakes on an ultralight. I've just checked at a local bike shop and read a couple reviews. It looks like a company called Avid makes a mechanical caliper and disc set that is very highly regarded, and goes for about $100, i.e. $200 for a pair of brakes, plus cables. Hydraulics are about double that, add more brake modulation, but not more stopping power. Like the cyclists, we like our stuff light. My flying weight is not a lot over a heavily loaded tandem bike. As well, I figure I need less braking power than the tandem coming down a very long hill at 50mph. So it seems they might work well on a single place UL. Anyway, since I seem hopelessly hooked on trying brake experiments instead of just buying what others know work well, I think I'll try this experiment too unless anyone here talks me out of it. BTW, George and Ralph, Hope you won't be done with me if I tell you I had changed from a single EGT at the Y to double sensors. My compulsion to do this came from actually getting engine failures, which I had eventually traced to air leaks mostly on the PTO exhaust port. I think my relationship with 2-strokes is not a healthy one -- we needlessly fuss with each other more than we should. Ack. -Ben http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom http://health.yahoo.com _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: fairings
Thanks to all that responded and sent attachments. I should be able to assemble it today. > > > How are the plastic fairings held on the round struts? I don't have the >plans to tell me. This matter requires urgent attention :) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2002
Subject: Re: bad EGT sender
In a message dated 8/5/02 10:51:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time, richard(at)bcchapel.org writes: << Years ago on my Hummer with a Rotax 277, I installed a smoke system. Used a 2 liter bottle, pressurized to inject Corvis oil into the exhaust pipe just downstream from the exhaust manifold. Worked great, but the interesting part was that the oil was obviously vaporizing and burning in the pipe in nodes or energy waves because the paint would burn off the pipe in regularly spaced sections. In between those sections, it stayed normal. You could look at the pipe and the areas with the paint burned off let you visualize the pulse waves that were going on inside it. But the real question is, if you were to put an egt gauge into the expansion cone area of the muffler, would you get higher readings at the sections where the paint was blistered? Or would the temperature be constant, and the blisters were just where the pulses were concentrated against the walls? From what we are hearing about probe placement, I get the impression that the temperatures rise and fall according to where the pulses focus. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) >> It makes some sense that the Highest point of pulsed energy would be at the Y as the energy coming from both cylinders has the opportunity to meet there. Of Course whether the energy level is at a high or a low may depend on different variables such as speed of the engine, and certainly length of the pipe to that point. I don't know this, just guessing, except about the length. Pulse migration must be similar to standing waves on a waveguide or antennae lead, where the actual length is definitely one of the variables...and of course the frequency is just as important..as they have to be played together to achieve an efficient antenna system. Well I just told you everything that I KNOW and also everything I THINK I KNOW about this whole subject. George Randolph the ol glider pilot from Akron O ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: HAC, limitations
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: Aug 06, 2002
08/06/2002 08:31:24 AM >How do you like the HAC carbs overall? What has been the + and - of them? >How can they compensate for changes in air density and not compensate for >changes in air and engine temps? I thought that if they automatically kept >the fuel mix correct for different density altitudes ( and thus for different >air temps) they would also automatically keep the engine temps at or within >the acceptable optimal range as a result. What am I missing here? They must >work differently than I thought. How do they work mechanically? > >How much affect do the various engine loads and settings have on your EGTs? >Is this why you are considering alternatives to the HAC? > >Steve HAC: I like the system. It is simple and effective at controlling mixture strength compensating for ambient air pressure changes. They also increase fuel economy, as their effect is to lean the mixture down from a ground-level setting. So if you are like me, and fly at 3500 or 5500 going east and 4500 or 6500 going west, you can enjoy the benefits of closer fuel-air mixture. I won't try to convince you to fly higher than you're comfortable. I like the visibility, radio range, air smoothness, gliding distance improvement, cooler air,,,and the plane gets to 3500 so fast it is almost free anyway. If you are flying with a couple buddies, and you fly higher than them, you can almost always see them. Now for the CONS: The cost is too high for what you get, both materially, and technologically. The kit is basically an extra hole drilled into one carb venturi for a vacuum source, a bunch of tubing and a few fittings, and the HAC diaphram/needle assembly which modulates the vacuum source to supply it to the float bowl chambers. To me, this adds up to $150 or $200 worth of stuff & knowledge, even at Rotax prices. Next CON: It does only the ambient pressure compensation. Temperature is a different matter, and the HAC knows nothing about air temp. I still end up changing jets about four times a year, for air temp changes. Add to this the extreme difference in air temp due to altitude change on certain days in the Fall, and you see that HAC is only half the solution. As others on this List have said, engine loading greatly affects the EGT. I won't re-type what others have stated quite well concerning the difference between light cruise power and climb power mixture needs. Some days I am going places, and I want to make good time getting there. Other days I am not so driven and can just lope around the sky. I jet and prop my 582 mkiii w/powerfin 3-blade like John H recommends: Prop for WOT just touch redline level flight. So it runs perfectly and predictably and just about hits 1200 degrees EGT WOT level. But slow it down a thousand RPM for slower more comfortable less noisy flight and it drops to 950 degrees. If I want 1100 minimum at cruise, I need to be able to trim it manually. HAC alone won't do this. Then, I take off for the day at 7 am, air temp is 50 degrees on the ground, 15-20 degrees cooler at altitude, and goes up from there all day long until it hits 75 or 80 mid afternoon. Now, some of you may disagree, but experience (two strokes on the ground, all kinds of machines) has shown me that a change of 20 degrees without jetting accordingly means you're throwing away some of the power your engine could make if jetted properly. Ignoring the power potential is half the issue, 'cause leaving it jetted rich adds to fuel-deposits in the combustion chamber. HAC won't solve this for me either. So I experiment. Jim Gerken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2002
Subject: Re: 2 cycle lubing
In a message dated 8/5/02 3:09:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes: It aint because its lean on Fuel its because its lean on oil. So increase your F/O ratio if you are going to lean it. > Ron Ron/Gents: I have to disagree with the above. Fuel is critical to cool the engine. Normally set up two stroke engines are actually fuel rich in order to keep the egt below 1200F. A four stroke engine runs temps in the 1,500F's. It is the fuel that is keeping the egt down and cooling the engine at higher power settings. Take care, >> this is the way I learned it also and the other thing I learned but may be unsubstantiated, was that you don't want to leave the throttle at around 3/4 cause the mixture is approaching too lean ...anybody? The coolest point of operation according to my learnin days was at full throttle on 2 cycles, due to the fuel cooling... George Randolph ps -this was from a fella by the name of Bob Morrison near Warren Ohio in the 80's but I never forgot it...and it was Cuyunna talk on a pterodactly ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 2 cycle lubing
> this is the way I learned it also and the other thing I learned but may be > unsubstantiated, was that you don't want to leave the throttle at around 3/4 > cause the mixture is approaching too lean ...anybody? > George Randolph George/Gents: Everybody has a different way to do things. Me too!!! Bings and Mikunis operate the same way on a two stroke, whether Rotax or Cuyuna. First 25% throttle is controlled by the idle jet and air screw. Next 50% is controlled by the fuel needle. And finally, the last 25% is controlled by the main jet. I am comfortable when the prop is properly loaded, i.e., engine turns the red line, or just bumps it, at WOT straight and level flight. At WOT I like to see the EGT at about 1050F, 1100F max. Cruise flight for me is about 75% power or 5800 rpm. I can afford to run leaner now cause I am not putting out as much power and heat. Now I am looking for around 1150F. If I do not have it, I can raise or lower the fuel needle one knotch at a time until I get it. Idle, I do not worry about EGT, just try and get the engine to idle as best I can, especially if I do not have an electric starter. Experience shows that losing an engine from idle on short final is not the place to try a restart, unless you can hit the starter button and get it going again. Most of the time we only use WOT to take off and to climb. This is when we are putting the max strain and heat on the engine. I want a little extra fuel to provide adequate cooling. I also make a habit of climbing WOT and not partial throttle. I want the engine to be running off the main jet and not being metered in a lean realm by the fuel needle. I am not that concerned about fuel economy, more toward reliability and simplicity. Two strokes are gas hogs by nature. They have to be to survive. I do not experiment with fuel oil mix ratios. I believe the engineers that designed the engine know more about that area of operation than I do. I do believe we can operate on each side of the fuel/oil ratio with success. That a certain probable error was factored into the 50:1 mix. Just a WAG, but 10% each side of 50 is 45:1 and 55:1. Somewhere I heard that fuel/oil ratio has a direct effect on crank and connecting rod bearings. Maybe it was here on the Kolb List. IIRC an over rich oil mix can also cause crank bearing problems. Maybe I am as screwed up as a soup sandwich, but back in the recesses of my ancient memory lurks these thoughts. For the adventurous experimenters, go ahead and experiement with fuel/oil ratios. Can't hurt anything but you, your engine, and your airplane. :-) Take care, john h hauck's holler, alabama PS: Got to get some Epoxy Chromate, Polybrush, and other stuff so I can get my Mark III back in the air. Times awasting. Kolb Flyin will be here before you know it. Seems like yesterday that a few hearty souls met at Chesnut Knolls Air Foundation for the 2001 Kolb Unflyin. See ya'll there. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com>
Subject: disk brakes?
Date: Aug 06, 2002
I'm not sure if we're talking about the same calipers, but I used a set that I got from a lawn mower/go-cart shop. $15 each. I made rotors out of circular saw blades (yes, I cut the teeth off :>), and welded up brakets. While they worked (up to around 3800rpm), I never really was happy with them, and they seemed to need constant adjustment. Here's a pic of mine: http://challenger.inebraska.com/jstewart/brakes1.jpg More pictures are at the bottom of http://challenger.inebraska.com/brad.htm I just replaced mine with Tracy O'Brien hydraulics, and now I can lock the wheels up and skid the tires on grass. Hope that helps. J.D. Stewart Internet Nebraska-Norfolk http://www.inebraska.com UltraFun AirSports http://www.ultrafunairsports.com Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator http://challenger.inebraska.com > > > Mike Shackleford was the first one to bring up the idea of using bicycle > disc brakes on a FireStar. I thought it sounded like a good idea. > I checked > with the local bicycle shop and there just happened to be a bicycle > manufactures rep there. We discussed the subject and came up with the Avid > cable disc brake as the best way to go. No master cylinder to > have to mount. > I have a set of these brakes here now and am starting to work on the > application. A local aircraft speciality shop is going to make the adapter > plates for me. These brakes are very well made and I can see no reason why > they will not be a vast improvement over the drum brakes that I > have now. If > you decide to go this route, keep us posted and I will do the same. > > Ron Payne > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 46 Msgs - 08/05/02
Date: Aug 06, 2002
Where can you purchase streamlined wing strut covers? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: APilot(at)webtv.net (Vic Gibson)
Date: Aug 06, 2002
Subject: Mark III Classic for sale
Sacramento area. Will deliver on west coast. With or without avionics. a/c 916, 722-9692 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 07/31/02
Did extensive experimenting with deflection of leading edge of vert stab. Conclusion was results were not sufficient to warrant bending the vertical stabilizer out of column. Max deflection was about 1 3/4". A good rudder trim tab of the correct size and angle will get the adverse yaw problem squared away, as my Mark III is now. john h ===================== i think that the rudder trim should be the easiest of all...... on the steel post that mounts in the nosecone where the springs mount to, well leave it a bit long.... take some 3/32 welding rod ( heavy coat hanger will do) and make some pieces a couple inches long with hooks bent on each end. hook your springs to the wires and go fly.... if you need more right rudder, shorten the wire hook for the right and make the one for the left a bit longer. while on the ground the rudder will sit to one side which to me is not a big problem. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Olenik" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com>
Subject: HAC, limitations
Date: Aug 06, 2002
The HAC system is no longer available from Rotax. I sold the last HAC kit to come through Kodiak two months ago. However, the parts may be available soon to convert existing current production Bing 54 carbs. I think the whole conversion kit is going to be less than $200, but it is still not a sure thing. The actual compensator has been the tough part and those are on their way from Germany now, but no one knows exactly what is going to be there until we see it. If the compensator is complete with all of it's fittings, it may be a reality in just a few more weeks to be able to convert your existing carbs to HAC for under $200. If you want to know if your carbs can be converted, you can e-mail me a picture of the side of your carb off list. There would be a plugged port next to where the main fuel line goes to the carb. On older carbs, this was not even there, but all the current ones have the port with just a plug in it. It's then as simple as replacing the plug with a barbed fitting and changing the jetting to prep the carb for HAC. Hook up all the lines, and it's ready to go. Tom Olenik Olenik Aviation -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Gerken Subject: Kolb-List: HAC, limitations >How do you like the HAC carbs overall? What has been the + and - of them? >How can they compensate for changes in air density and not compensate for >changes in air and engine temps? I thought that if they automatically kept >the fuel mix correct for different density altitudes ( and thus for different >air temps) they would also automatically keep the engine temps at or within >the acceptable optimal range as a result. What am I missing here? They must >work differently than I thought. How do they work mechanically? > >How much affect do the various engine loads and settings have on your EGTs? >Is this why you are considering alternatives to the HAC? > >Steve HAC: I like the system. It is simple and effective at controlling mixture strength compensating for ambient air pressure changes. They also increase fuel economy, as their effect is to lean the mixture down from a ground-level setting. So if you are like me, and fly at 3500 or 5500 going east and 4500 or 6500 going west, you can enjoy the benefits of closer fuel-air mixture. I won't try to convince you to fly higher than you're comfortable. I like the visibility, radio range, air smoothness, gliding distance improvement, cooler air,,,and the plane gets to 3500 so fast it is almost free anyway. If you are flying with a couple buddies, and you fly higher than them, you can almost always see them. Now for the CONS: The cost is too high for what you get, both materially, and technologically. The kit is basically an extra hole drilled into one carb venturi for a vacuum source, a bunch of tubing and a few fittings, and the HAC diaphram/needle assembly which modulates the vacuum source to supply it to the float bowl chambers. To me, this adds up to $150 or $200 worth of stuff & knowledge, even at Rotax prices. Next CON: It does only the ambient pressure compensation. Temperature is a different matter, and the HAC knows nothing about air temp. I still end up changing jets about four times a year, for air temp changes. Add to this the extreme difference in air temp due to altitude change on certain days in the Fall, and you see that HAC is only half the solution. As others on this List have said, engine loading greatly affects the EGT. I won't re-type what others have stated quite well concerning the difference between light cruise power and climb power mixture needs. Some days I am going places, and I want to make good time getting there. Other days I am not so driven and can just lope around the sky. I jet and prop my 582 mkiii w/powerfin 3-blade like John H recommends: Prop for WOT just touch redline level flight. So it runs perfectly and predictably and just about hits 1200 degrees EGT WOT level. But slow it down a thousand RPM for slower more comfortable less noisy flight and it drops to 950 degrees. If I want 1100 minimum at cruise, I need to be able to trim it manually. HAC alone won't do this. Then, I take off for the day at 7 am, air temp is 50 degrees on the ground, 15-20 degrees cooler at altitude, and goes up from there all day long until it hits 75 or 80 mid afternoon. Now, some of you may disagree, but experience (two strokes on the ground, all kinds of machines) has shown me that a change of 20 degrees without jetting accordingly means you're throwing away some of the power your engine could make if jetted properly. Ignoring the power potential is half the issue, 'cause leaving it jetted rich adds to fuel-deposits in the combustion chamber. HAC won't solve this for me either. So I experiment. Jim Gerken ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: 2 cycle lubing
>this is the way I learned it also and the other thing I learned but may be >unsubstantiated, was that you don't want to leave the throttle at around 3/4 >cause the mixture is approaching too lean ...anybody? >The coolest point of operation according to my learnin days was at full >throttle on 2 cycles, due to the fuel cooling... > >George Randolph > George & Others, I did a little study on my 447 because I noticed that when the engine was propped for 6000 rpm it would reach that rpm at much less that wide open throttle. The charts that are used to explain how the Bing carburetor works are only valid if the carburetor is properly sized to the engine and maximum engine rpm is reached at 100% open throttle. But this is not the case of my 447. It reached 6000 rpm at 40% WOT. Main jet influence from 40% to 100% throttle will not change because there is no increased air flow. The needle & jet will have some influence at richening the mixture because one can increase the jet opening during constant air flow by further opening the throttle above 40%. If you would like to see the study results, you can see them at: http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly58b.html One other comment, in trying to improve cross country performance, I increased the prop pitch to limit the engine to 5600 rpm. What happened was cruise EGT's and rpm's remained stable which made for more pleasant flying, and the FireFly cruised just as fast, but I lost 500 fpm of climb. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 2 cycle lubing
> One other comment, in trying to improve cross country performance, I increased the prop pitch to limit the engine to 5600 rpm. What happened was cruise EGT's and rpm's remained stable which made for more pleasant flying, and the FireFly cruised just as fast, but I lost 500 fpm of climb. > > Jack B. Hart FF004 Jack B/Gang: If the engine is designed to turn 6,800 rpm max, why load it down with pitch to 5,600 or 6,000 rpm? I don't have the chart in front of me, but 5,600 rpm equates to about 70% power for the 447 which, off the top of my head, is aprx 28 hp (?). 75% would be 30 hp. The 912/912S are designed for 5,500 rpm max continuous. :-) john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 07/31/02
while > on the ground the rudder will sit to one side which to me is > not a big problem. > > boyd Boyd/Gents: Forced trim will work for rudder trim, but I don't want my rudder offset on the ground or have unequal pressure on the rudder pedals when I am taxiing. Therefore, I went with a trim tab. Most of my flying is at cruise rpm. That is where the trim tab is set to give me a trimmed up airplane. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: Carbs
>>>>> Next CON: It does only the ambient pressure compensation. Temperature is a different matter, and the HAC knows nothing about air temp. I still end up changing jets about four times a year, for air temp changes. <<<<< =========================== If it compansates for pressure it automatically comapnsates for temperature. The carb in fact senses only density altitude and it is a combination of both temp and ambiant pressure. Why you change jets for performance has to be for other reasons. Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: Cooling
>>>>>> I have to disagree with the above. Fuel is critical to cool the engine. Normally set up two stroke engines are actually fuel rich in order to keep the egt below 1200F. A four stroke engine runs temps in the 1,500F's. It is the fuel that is keeping the egt down and cooling the engine at higher power settings.<<<<< Fuel is a component in cooling, and air is also a component in cooling. just throw a blanket on your engine at full power and see how long it takes it to burn up. However cooling was not what I was thinking about, it was inadequat lubrication at lean f/a settings. For example you can go to the lean side of peak on any internal combustion engine not just 2 cycle and guess what will happen, and its counter intuitive for many to boot. It will run *****Cooler***** but in the case of the two cycle motor it will be *starved* really really starved for lubrication. In other words you Egt will read very low and you are happily thinking gee everything is fine by my Exahust Gas Temprerature, when at the same time your engine is grinding the piss out of itself, because of almost no lubrication at all (goes back to the point I was making earlier, if you are going to lean it on the F/A make sure you enrich it on the F/O). In other words thinking that your EGT tells you anything except your F/A burn mixture is terribly wrong and no one should do it. Your CHT is very imoprtant, your RPM is very important for a particular throtle setting, your EGt tells you if your combustion is good (as you feel comfortable with). Most importantly make sure the engine is runing warm and giving you the power that you need. Screwing around with mixtures on a good runing 2 cycle engine thats getting the proper lubrication,, no scaffing etc.. is folly. Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: 2 cycle lubing
>Jack B/Gang: > >If the engine is designed to turn 6,800 rpm max, why load it >down with pitch to 5,600 or 6,000 rpm? I don't have the >chart in front of me, but 5,600 rpm equates to about 70% >power for the 447 which, off the top of my head, is aprx 28 >hp (?). 75% would be 30 hp. > >The 912/912S are designed for 5,500 rpm max continuous. :-) > >john h > John, I have the ultra light vehicle constraint. To keep the FireFly legal, I had to limit the 447 to 38 hp and that translates into 6000 rpm max. and the 447 can generate 38 hp at this rpm. This can be seen in the following document: (This is a large html so be patient) http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/fireflylegal.html Or, just the 447 horsepower curve can be seen at: http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/rotaxhp.jpg The 447 can generate just a little less than 35 hp at 5600 rpm. The reason for loading the engine on down is to try and reach an economical cruise condition. Others told me I was running my engine too fast to get good cross country performance. To check this out I ran some fuel flow studies. They can be seen at: http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly58c.html After I loaded the engine down to 5600, I never ran another fuel flow study because I had made the decision to change from the Rotax 447 to the Victor 1. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: Rick Trader message of Sun, 4 Aug 2002 23:50:01
-0700
Date: Aug 06, 2002
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rick Trader message of Sun, 4 Aug 2002 Dennis, Thank you. Reading of Ricks adventure is what made me decide on the Kolb. I could identify with Rick personally as a guy like me. After reading about his trip I could see nothing on the market that could compare with the Kolb. I still don't think there's one that does . The most versatile in it's class at the best price. One of these days I might actually pilot one I hope. Still sitting in the cage making engine noises though....Kirk ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2002
Subject: Re: SMOKE
In a message dated 8/6/02 9:19:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, GeoR38(at)aol.com writes: > Years ago on my Hummer with a Rotax 277, I installed a smoke system. Used a > 2 liter bottle, pressurized to inject Corvis oil into the exhaust pipe just > downstream from the exhaust manifold. Worked great, but the interesting > Richard, a friend of mine is trying to put smoke on a Rans S-9 Chaos w/ 582 with limited success. When he closes the throttle he gets good smoke, but when he opens it all the way he only gets about 10% smoke. He's using a 16 psi pump, gonna' change to a 22 psi. Any ideas?? What's Corvis oil, what's the cost, & where do you get it? Shack FS II SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: 2 cycle oil sources
Date: Aug 06, 2002
I could use a little help on sources for obtaining synthetic two-stroke oil in my area, which is the Rochester, Michigan region. Any help greatly appreciated! -Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Woody Weaver" <mts0140(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: 2 cycle oil sources
Date: Aug 06, 2002
Try http://www.goa-northcoastoil.com/products/products/arctblue.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> Subject: Kolb-List: 2 cycle oil sources > > I could use a little help on sources for obtaining synthetic two-stroke oil > in my area, which is the Rochester, Michigan region. > > Any help greatly appreciated! > > -Ken > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: 2 cycle oil
I am almost sure I saw walmart selling it. I also saw some at my local Honda Bike shop. I am just about sure you can get it at any Bike shop but check Wally World first on account they have the cheapest prices,, usually. :-) I could use a little help on sources for obtaining synthetic two-stroke oil in my area, which is the Rochester, Michigan region. Any help greatly appreciated! -Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: SMOKE
> > >In a message dated 8/6/02 9:19:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, GeoR38(at)aol.com >writes: >Richard, a friend of mine is trying to put smoke on a Rans S-9 Chaos w/ 582 >with limited success. When he closes the throttle he gets good smoke, but >when he opens it all the way he only gets about 10% smoke. He's using a 16 >psi pump, gonna' change to a 22 psi. Any ideas?? > >What's Corvis oil, what's the cost, & where do you get it? > >Shack > FS II >SC Rans S-9 Chaos? Uhhh...Ok. Let's make this Kolb related: for any Kolb owners who want their airplanes to really smoke, here's how I did it years ago....simple, cheap, and low tech. You will need the following items. a 2 liter plastic (PET) soda bottle a rubber grommet 2 brass shut off valves. a brass valve stem about 18" of 1/4 copper tubing about 6" of steel brake line a band clamp to fit around your exhaust pipe a 1/4" washer enough 1/4" urethane tubing to plumb everything together The basic plan is this: the bottle holds the Corvis oil and pressurized air. You need a way to pressurize the bottle from an air hose. So you need a valve to shut off the oil flow, and a valve stem to pressurize the sucker. Take the 2 liter plastic soda bottle, bore a little hole in the cap, and stick the rubber grommet in the hole. Through this grommet you will have a length of 1/4" copper tubing that runs to the bottom of the bottle. You want it to fit really tight, or it will leak air. Where the tubing comes out of the bottle you will make a T fitting where you can pressurize the bottle, that is where the valve stem goes. Then (downstream, away from the bottle) comes a brass off/on valve. Now you can take an air chuck and pressurize the bottle through the valve stem, and when you pull the air chuck off, the oil in the bottle doesn't squirt out because downstream of the bottle and the valve stem, you have closed the valve. Downstream from the valve, you run your flexible tubing to a second off/on valve in your cockpit where you can reach it. This is the one you will use in flight. The other one is sort of a fail safe. (You don't want your only shut off to be in the cockpit if something springs a leak...) From here, you run the tubing to the engine. At the engine, the easiest place to put the oil injection is at the 90 degree elbow between the manifold and the muffler. Take the steel brake line and braze or weld the washer about 1" back from the end. Drill a hole in the elbow and also a hole in the band clamp. Clamp the steel tubing onto the elbow so that about 1" of tubing is into the elbow. Run the rest of the steel tubing away from the hot parts and attach your urethane tubing to it. Pressure test it! Close the valve closest to the bottle and pressure test the thing with no oil in it. Mine would hold 100 psi, but usually I used 65 - 70 psi. Then open the valve next to the bottle and see if the second valve will hold. Spray a little soapy water on it and look for bubbles. If everything looks OK, you are ready. I would fill the bottle half full of oil and then pressurize it. It smoked really hard until it got almost empty of oil, and then not so much smoke. At that pressure, I could get about 5 minutes straight of smoke. ( I think. It's been years...) Corvis oil: that is an oil normally used to waterproof wooden palettes, and it is what the air show guys use. A number of years ago, the Red Baron Pizza Stearmans were in town, and when their show was over, they still had 5 gallons left in the bottom of a 55 gallon drum, and I was there when they were trying to decide how to get rid of it. (They use up a 55 gallon drum during a two day show, and don't plan to haul the remnants around) Where do you normally buy it? I have no idea. Good luck. I can guarantee that this system will smoke like crazy, from just off idle to full throttle. It will also burn the paint off your muffler at certain spots, and it will burn all the carbon out of your exhaust ports, and off the top of your piston, and the bottom of the head. That means you need to BE CAREFUL: Now you are really experimenting! The first time you try it out, watch your EGT real close. It never hurt my 277, the EGT stayed normal, but that proves nothing about what it might do to your engine. I would have no qualms about rigging this system up on my 532, I had excellent reliability on my Rotax 277. I trust this will not hurt anybody's engine, but the 277 was the only engine tested, so nothing is certain. I only know the system will work, not how your particular engine will behave. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George" <geomurphy(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: need wings
Date: Aug 06, 2002
I have a 15 year old Fire Star that needs its wings recovered. I do not like the idea of using the original wings due to their age. Does anyone have a set of prints for the wings or know where I can find a set??? I have the 5" spar. George Murphy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Sept Fly In
> Has it been determined that there is a picnic in Sept. If so I will probably be there - Thunderbird in tow. > > I'm planning to be there, it the WX cooperates. > > Richard Pike > >Same here. > >john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2002
Subject: Re: Sept Fly In
In a message dated 8/6/02 9:16:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, duesouth(at)govital.net writes: > > > Has it been determined that there is a picnic in Sept. If so I will > probably be there - Thunderbird in tow. > It's official now, I saw it on TNK website. I am planning to be there but will be driving. I won't have my plane back in the air by then. Steven Green ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2002
Subject: Re: need wings
Goerge, I have all of the original builders plans for a 1988 Firestar if that helps. If they will help you, let me know and I can have a copy made and sent to you. There is a list member on this site that has a set of wings he would probably sell you that are already build. He went to the FS2 wing and has these left. Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Variometer
Date: Aug 05, 2002
Yah, I did chide Larry - gently - for being a lurker.............since he has so much to offer, and presents his efforts and observations so clearly and thoroughly. Sometimes we need to be reminded of applications, or new ideas on using old applications, since memories tend to fade fairly quickly...........that's when you say, "Oh Yeah - I remember that," and maybe this time give it a try yourself. You can believe I'll try his idea for vg's on the side..........sounds like a real plus. Still-in-Port Angeles Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Variometer > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ken Korenek" <ken-foi(at)attbi.com> > > I think I need to repitch my prop and I'm trying to nail down what my > RPM's > > vs MPH's are doing and I'm getting conflicting readings. I suspect that > I > > am in a gradual climb or dive and the altimeter or VSI in the EIS doesn't > > show it- it stays locked on 0 but the rpm keeps rising or falling. By > the > > time I wait for the altimeter to show a change, I've messed up that data > try. > > > Big Lar as you know visited me on his way north. While he was here he chided > me for being a lurker. For the most part there is little I can add to the > general knowledge of the list. I do think that I have discovered how to > achieve level flight, at least for a little while. Your altimeter will tell > you if you are climbing, your rpm's will confirm that. I set my rpm's to ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2002
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com>
Subject: Re: need wings
George, I wouldn't worry about using the original wings. I don't think that any Firestar is too old. Any problems should show up when the wings are uncovered. John Jung George wrote: > >I have a 15 year old Fire Star that needs its wings recovered. I do >not like the idea of using the original wings due to their age. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bill-jo" <bill-jo(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Sept Fly In
Date: Aug 07, 2002
I will be there,I am going to drive down! Bill Futrell Do Not Achive ----- Original Message ----- From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Sept Fly In > > > > > > Has it been determined that there is a picnic in Sept. If so I will > probably be there - Thunderbird in tow. > > > > > I'm planning to be there, it the WX cooperates. > > > Richard Pike > > > >Same here. > > > >john h > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com>
Subject: SMOKE
Date: Aug 07, 2002
A friend of mine added smoke to his Challenger, and used a small weed sprayer instead of the 2 liter bottle. That way he didn't have to have an air compressor around, and could pump it up anytime. He just bungied it to the back seat and ran a hose to a nipple welded to the exhaust. His EGTs would rise pretty fast, so he normally would get around 10 seconds at a time before they got too hot. Here's a picture of the results: http://challenger.inebraska.com/brads/Smoke.jpg J.D. Stewart Internet Nebraska-Norfolk http://www.inebraska.com UltraFun AirSports http://www.ultrafunairsports.com Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator http://challenger.inebraska.com > > Rans S-9 Chaos? Uhhh...Ok. Let's make this Kolb related: > for any Kolb owners who want their airplanes to really smoke, > here's how I did it years ago....simple, cheap, and low tech. > You will need the following items. > a 2 liter plastic (PET) soda bottle > a rubber grommet > 2 brass shut off valves. > a brass valve stem > about 18" of 1/4 copper tubing > about 6" of steel brake line > a band clamp to fit around your exhaust pipe > a 1/4" washer > enough 1/4" urethane tubing to plumb everything together > The basic plan is this: the bottle holds the Corvis oil and pressurized > air. You need a way to pressurize the bottle from an air hose. So you need > a valve to shut off the oil flow, and a valve stem to pressurize > the sucker. > > Take the 2 liter plastic soda bottle, bore a little hole in the cap, and > stick the rubber grommet in the hole. Through this grommet you will have a > length of 1/4" copper tubing that runs to the bottom of the bottle. You > want it to fit really tight, or it will leak air. > Where the tubing comes out of the bottle you will make a T fitting where > you can pressurize the bottle, that is where the valve stem goes. > Then (downstream, away from the bottle) comes a brass off/on valve. > Now you can take an air chuck and pressurize the bottle through the valve > stem, and when you pull the air chuck off, the oil in the bottle doesn't > squirt out because downstream of the bottle and the valve stem, you have > closed the valve. > Downstream from the valve, you run your flexible tubing to a second off/on > valve in your cockpit where you can reach it. This is the one you will use > in flight. The other one is sort of a fail safe. (You don't want your only > shut off to be in the cockpit if something springs a leak...) > >From here, you run the tubing to the engine. > At the engine, the easiest place to put the oil injection is at the 90 > degree elbow between the manifold and the muffler. > Take the steel brake line and braze or weld the washer about 1" back from > the end. Drill a hole in the elbow and also a hole in the band > clamp. Clamp > the steel tubing onto the elbow so that about 1" of tubing is into the > elbow. Run the rest of the steel tubing away from the hot parts and attach > your urethane tubing to it. > > Pressure test it! Close the valve closest to the bottle and pressure test > the thing with no oil in it. Mine would hold 100 psi, but usually > I used 65 > - 70 psi. Then open the valve next to the bottle and see if the second > valve will hold. Spray a little soapy water on it and look for bubbles. If > everything looks OK, you are ready. > I would fill the bottle half full of oil and then pressurize it. It smoked > really hard until it got almost empty of oil, and then not so much smoke. > At that pressure, I could get about 5 minutes straight of smoke. > ( I think. > It's been years...) > > Corvis oil: that is an oil normally used to waterproof wooden > palettes, and > it is what the air show guys use. A number of years ago, the Red Baron > Pizza Stearmans were in town, and when their show was over, they still had > 5 gallons left in the bottom of a 55 gallon drum, and I was there > when they > were trying to decide how to get rid of it. (They use up a 55 gallon drum > during a two day show, and don't plan to haul the remnants around) > Where do you normally buy it? I have no idea. Good luck. > > I can guarantee that this system will smoke like crazy, from just off idle > to full throttle. > > It will also burn the paint off your muffler at certain spots, and it will > burn all the carbon out of your exhaust ports, and off the top of your > piston, and the bottom of the head. That means you need to BE CAREFUL: > Now you are really experimenting! > The first time you try it out, watch your EGT real close. It never hurt my > 277, the EGT stayed normal, but that proves nothing about what it might do > to your engine. > I would have no qualms about rigging this system up on my 532, I had > excellent reliability on my Rotax 277. I trust this will not hurt > anybody's > engine, but the 277 was the only engine tested, so nothing is certain. I > only know the system will work, not how your particular engine > will behave. > > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > > --- > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: 2 cycle lubing
> >As I have been following this thread something occured to me that may be >of very significant impact on a 2 stroke motor (I like saying motor). >:-) snip ...... My old ex-military flight instructor used to say "street cars have Motors, airplanes have Engines." jerryb ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: disk brakes?
Hi Ben, JerryB here. It's been a while. Glad to see your lurking on the list. Have you looked into the Tracy O'Brien hydraulic brakes. They work really well. We have on guy that put them on his other brand airplane. Several others of the same make have since added them. Everyone is very happy with them. Great outfit and good product. Their URL is: http://www.tracyobrien.com/showcat.asp?id=9 jerryb > >Hey, >It is great to touch base again with you guys from the list going way >back. > >Digging up some of those good ol favorite subjects -- EGT at the Y, and >Seafoam -- I figure this gives me the liberty to bring up brakes. Go >ahead, sigh, roll your eyes! Heck, your finger is probably twitching >right over that delete key. But I'm bringin it up anyway! :) > >I'm wondering if anyone knows of people trying bicycle disc brakes on >an ultralight. I've just checked at a local bike shop and read a >couple reviews. It looks like a company called Avid makes a mechanical >caliper and disc set that is very highly regarded, and goes for about >$100, i.e. $200 for a pair of brakes, plus cables. Hydraulics are >about double that, add more brake modulation, but not more stopping >power. > >Like the cyclists, we like our stuff light. My flying weight is not a >lot over a heavily loaded tandem bike. As well, I figure I need less >braking power than the tandem coming down a very long hill at 50mph. >So it seems they might work well on a single place UL. > >Anyway, since I seem hopelessly hooked on trying brake experiments >instead of just buying what others know work well, I think I'll try >this experiment too unless anyone here talks me out of it. > >BTW, George and Ralph, Hope you won't be done with me if I tell you I >had changed from a single EGT at the Y to double sensors. My >compulsion to do this came from actually getting engine failures, which >I had eventually traced to air leaks mostly on the PTO exhaust port. I >think my relationship with 2-strokes is not a healthy one -- we >needlessly fuss with each other more than we should. Ack. >-Ben > >===== >http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom > >http://health.yahoo.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mhqqqqq(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 07, 2002
Subject: minnesota fly in
the 10th annual cherry grove fly in will be aug. 25. in wanamingo mn. all are welcome, fly or drive. for directions & other info please look at "www.theflyin.com" denny is still working on the sight, so if you need more info send me your snail mail address & I will send you the info. Mark Hansen mhqqqqq(at)aol.com twinstar wanamingo mn. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: SMOKE
Does Corvis oil contain carcinogens (cancer causing materials)? We had a guy that used to come down to our end of the field and bellow smoke then takeoff. He always seemed to pick the days when the winds would blow it towards the side of the airport with the hangars. We would be left having breath that crap. I mentioned to a few people that we went going to tolerate it much longer. The word must have gotten back to him as he quite doing it. No more problems with him after that. If your going to play "air show performer", think of the people your smoking, they may not enjoy the thrill as much as you. jerryb > > A friend of mine added smoke to his Challenger, and used a small weed >sprayer instead of the 2 liter bottle. That way he didn't have to have an >air compressor around, and could pump it up anytime. He just bungied it to >the back seat and ran a hose to a nipple welded to the exhaust. His EGTs >would rise pretty fast, so he normally would get around 10 seconds at a time >before they got too hot. > Here's a picture of the results: >http://challenger.inebraska.com/brads/Smoke.jpg > >J.D. Stewart >Internet Nebraska-Norfolk >http://www.inebraska.com >UltraFun AirSports >http://www.ultrafunairsports.com >Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator >http://challenger.inebraska.com > > > > > Rans S-9 Chaos? Uhhh...Ok. Let's make this Kolb related: > > for any Kolb owners who want their airplanes to really smoke, > > here's how I did it years ago....simple, cheap, and low tech. > > You will need the following items. > > a 2 liter plastic (PET) soda bottle > > a rubber grommet > > 2 brass shut off valves. > > a brass valve stem > > about 18" of 1/4 copper tubing > > about 6" of steel brake line > > a band clamp to fit around your exhaust pipe > > a 1/4" washer > > enough 1/4" urethane tubing to plumb everything together > > The basic plan is this: the bottle holds the Corvis oil and pressurized > > air. You need a way to pressurize the bottle from an air hose. So you need > > a valve to shut off the oil flow, and a valve stem to pressurize > > the sucker. > > > > Take the 2 liter plastic soda bottle, bore a little hole in the cap, and > > stick the rubber grommet in the hole. Through this grommet you will have a > > length of 1/4" copper tubing that runs to the bottom of the bottle. You > > want it to fit really tight, or it will leak air. > > Where the tubing comes out of the bottle you will make a T fitting where > > you can pressurize the bottle, that is where the valve stem goes. > > Then (downstream, away from the bottle) comes a brass off/on valve. > > Now you can take an air chuck and pressurize the bottle through the valve > > stem, and when you pull the air chuck off, the oil in the bottle doesn't > > squirt out because downstream of the bottle and the valve stem, you have > > closed the valve. > > Downstream from the valve, you run your flexible tubing to a second off/on > > valve in your cockpit where you can reach it. This is the one you will use > > in flight. The other one is sort of a fail safe. (You don't want your only > > shut off to be in the cockpit if something springs a leak...) > > >From here, you run the tubing to the engine. > > At the engine, the easiest place to put the oil injection is at the 90 > > degree elbow between the manifold and the muffler. > > Take the steel brake line and braze or weld the washer about 1" back from > > the end. Drill a hole in the elbow and also a hole in the band > > clamp. Clamp > > the steel tubing onto the elbow so that about 1" of tubing is into the > > elbow. Run the rest of the steel tubing away from the hot parts and attach > > your urethane tubing to it. > > > > Pressure test it! Close the valve closest to the bottle and pressure test > > the thing with no oil in it. Mine would hold 100 psi, but usually > > I used 65 > > - 70 psi. Then open the valve next to the bottle and see if the second > > valve will hold. Spray a little soapy water on it and look for bubbles. If > > everything looks OK, you are ready. > > I would fill the bottle half full of oil and then pressurize it. It smoked > > really hard until it got almost empty of oil, and then not so much smoke. > > At that pressure, I could get about 5 minutes straight of smoke. > > ( I think. > > It's been years...) > > > > Corvis oil: that is an oil normally used to waterproof wooden > > palettes, and > > it is what the air show guys use. A number of years ago, the Red Baron > > Pizza Stearmans were in town, and when their show was over, they still had > > 5 gallons left in the bottom of a 55 gallon drum, and I was there > > when they > > were trying to decide how to get rid of it. (They use up a 55 gallon drum > > during a two day show, and don't plan to haul the remnants around) > > Where do you normally buy it? I have no idea. Good luck. > > > > I can guarantee that this system will smoke like crazy, from just off idle > > to full throttle. > > > > It will also burn the paint off your muffler at certain spots, and it will > > burn all the carbon out of your exhaust ports, and off the top of your > > piston, and the bottom of the head. That means you need to BE CAREFUL: > > Now you are really experimenting! > > The first time you try it out, watch your EGT real close. It never hurt my > > 277, the EGT stayed normal, but that proves nothing about what it might do > > to your engine. > > I would have no qualms about rigging this system up on my 532, I had > > excellent reliability on my Rotax 277. I trust this will not hurt > > anybody's > > engine, but the 277 was the only engine tested, so nothing is certain. I > > only know the system will work, not how your particular engine > > will behave. > > > > Richard Pike > > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > > > > > --- > > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2002
From: <fly3g(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Bicycle Brakes
Ron, About 2 years ago I made up some hub adapters for asuza rims and used a set of Shimano hydrualic brakes on my FS2. They work great. I used a single master to power both brakes and get great stopping power and a good feel. Really lightweight too. Another FS2 pilot put two masters and the differential braking action works well. I went with the hydraulics so I wouldn't have to worry cable adjustments or routing the cables so the bends wouldn't be too tight. Bled them on installation and haven't had any maintenance of the system since. They look good too. Shimano uses a nice steel braided sheath over the brake lines. I posted pictures on the matronics site, they should be up in a day or two. Gregg Waligroski Kolb'n in Colorado again, yes! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Marshall MI fly In
Does anyone know when the Marshall MI fly in is??? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: SMOKE
> > >Does Corvis oil contain carcinogens (cancer causing materials)? > >If your going to play "air show performer", think of the people your >smoking, they may not enjoy the thrill as much as you. >jerryb Since Kingsport is the home of Eastman Chemical Corporation, all of us in the local area assume that everything we eat, breath or see contains cancer causing materials, so I am probably the wrong one to ask. As far as playing "air show performer;" I never did that. My best use for smoke on the Hummer was as an anti collision device. When ATC was calling me as traffic for some myopic corporate type who couldn't see me over his four foot wide X three foot high instrument panel, (and was apparently about to acquire a Maxair nose ornament) I would open the smoke valve and lay down a huge white plume. "Yeah Approach, traffic in sight." Worked every time. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patty M" <pattym(at)lushen.com>
Subject: Re: need wings
Date: Aug 08, 2002
George, while at oskosh flyin there was a box for sale in the barn that said firestar wing kit for sale. I don't know anything more about it but maybe someone on the list could fill you in. I saw a boom tube and some rib material . Phil MacGregor Ultrastar Marquette Mi > . Does > anyone have a set of prints for the wings or know where I can find a > set??? I have the 5" spar. > George Murphy > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hjalmar Johannesson" <hjalm(at)ismennt.is>
Subject: need wings
Date: Aug 08, 2002
KOLB FIRESTAR I WINGS (5 RIBS) FOR SALE!! .. BOTH WINGS .. LEFT WING FOLDED .. RIGHT WING FOLDED .. RIGHT WING .. LEFT WING .. Kolb FireStar I Wings (5 Ribs- ) in MINT CONDITION. Built new in late 1999 by Lite Speed Aviation from new materials purchased from Kolb. Leading and Trailing Edge tubes .035 wall thickness. Only 30 hours flight time and always hangared or trailered. No damage. The leading and trailing edges are straight. There is no fabric warp in the ailerons. Wings come with lift struts and full span ailerons. This offer is for the WINGS ONLY!!! Replaced 5 rib wings with 7 rib wings for higher gross weight and bigger engine capability. More pictures and info on request. Asking $4500. Contact Ken Korenek located Arlington TEXAS USA. Telephone: 817-483-8054. -- Posted 4 June 2002 -- Show here. Bestu kvejur/Best regards hjalmar ************************* Hjlmar Jhannesson Urarteig 6 740 Neskaupsta Iceland Tel: (354) 477 11 70 Mobil (354) 895 11 70 Email: mailto:hjalm(at)ismennt.is URL http://hjalmar.ismennt.is/ ************************** -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patty M Subject: Re: Kolb-List: need wings George, while at oskosh flyin there was a box for sale in the barn that said firestar wing kit for sale. I don't know anything more about it but maybe someone on the list could fill you in. I saw a boom tube and some rib material . Phil MacGregor Ultrastar Marquette Mi > . Does > anyone have a set of prints for the wings or know where I can find a > set??? I have the 5" spar. > George Murphy > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George" <geomurphy(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: need wings
Date: Aug 08, 2002
The wings that Ken Korenek look great and would save me a lot of rebuild time, only one problem I think his price which is probably very reasonable for the time spent on them is more than my whole airplane is worth. I just need a copy of the original plans to repair the parts I will probably damage when I remove the fabric. My wings have never been damaged in any way but the fabric is in question after 15 years. I know the rivets will spin and cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their wings without damaging anything? I am asking for opinions. If you had a good flying Kolb Firestar that was 15 years old, and does not have the Stitts silvercoat, would you recover It with new fabric or just Duct tape it as necessary? Original Message ----- From: "Hjalmar Johannesson" <hjalm(at)ismennt.is> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: need wings > > KOLB FIRESTAR I WINGS (5 RIBS) FOR SALE!! .. BOTH WINGS .. LEFT WING > FOLDED .. RIGHT WING FOLDED .. RIGHT WING .. LEFT WING .. Kolb FireStar I > Wings (5 Ribs- ) in MINT CONDITION. Built new in late 1999 by Lite Speed > Aviation from new materials purchased from Kolb. Leading and Trailing Edge > tubes .035 wall thickness. Only 30 hours flight time and always hangared or > trailered. No damage. The leading and trailing edges are straight. There is > no fabric warp in the ailerons. Wings come with lift struts and full span > ailerons. This offer is for the WINGS ONLY!!! Replaced 5 rib wings with 7 > rib wings for higher gross weight and bigger engine capability. More > pictures and info on request. Asking $4500. Contact Ken Korenek located > Arlington TEXAS USA. Telephone: 817-483-8054. -- Posted 4 June 2002 -- Show > here. > > > Bestu kvejur/Best regards > hjalmar > ************************* > Hjlmar Jhannesson > Urarteig 6 > 740 Neskaupsta > Iceland > Tel: (354) 477 11 70 > Mobil (354) 895 11 70 > Email: mailto:hjalm(at)ismennt.is > URL http://hjalmar.ismennt.is/ > ************************** > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patty M > Sent: 8. gst 2002 14:34 > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: need wings > > > George, while at oskosh flyin there was a box for sale in the barn that said > firestar wing kit for sale. I don't know anything more about it but maybe > someone on the list could fill you in. I saw a boom tube and some rib > material . > > Phil MacGregor > Ultrastar > Marquette Mi > > > > > . Does > > anyone have a set of prints for the wings or know where I can find a > > set??? I have the 5" spar. > > George Murphy > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: need wings
> I know the rivets will spin and > cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their wings > without damaging anything? George/Gents: Yes, I recovered and repaired my MK III wing Spring 2001. I have recovered other wings without problem. The fabric rivets are alum with alum mandrels. Go to the archives and you will find several messages I wrote on how to remove both alum and SS rivets. The rivets hold pretty good if the trim tape is left on the rivets while drilling. Use sharp bits. Don't scrimp on them. Make a tool out of a piece of hack saw blade. Grind a "V" shaped groove in the end of it. Bevel (sharpen) one side only to shove under the edge of the rivet lip. Have fun. SS rivets same way, but take a rivet mandrel, hold with vise grips, small ball peen hammer. Knock the mandrels out of each rivet, then start drilling and holding as described above. If the holes get a little oversize, the new rivets will expand and grip quite well. Replace any corroded rivets and/or tubes. By all means get rid of the fabric without UV block. Process new fabric with Polyspray. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 08, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: need wings
Why not just cut the fabric off, check the wings out carefully, and if they are structurally sound,. poke the old rivits out, cover the ribs with tape to eliminate the rivit divots, recover the wings and rib stitch them? No structural degradation from what you have now, and only cost you the price of a recover. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >The wings that Ken Korenek look great and would save me a lot of rebuild >time, only one problem I think his price which is probably very reasonable >for the time spent on them is more than my whole airplane is worth. I just >need a copy of the original plans to repair the parts I will probably damage >when I remove the fabric. My wings have never been damaged in any way but >the fabric is in question after 15 years. I know the rivets will spin and >cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their wings >without damaging anything? >I am asking for opinions. If you had a good flying Kolb Firestar that was >15 years old, and does not have the Stitts silvercoat, would you recover It >with new fabric or just Duct tape it as necessary? >Original Message ----- --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Control stops
Date: Aug 08, 2002
I had an EAA Technical Advisor do an inspection on my Kolb Mark II this evening. One of the things he asked me was, "where are the controls stops?" Turns out there aren't any. Nor did either of the ultralights I've owned. The control limit was "as far as you can push the stick/pedal." Does anyone have positive limit controls stops on their Kolb? -Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 08, 2002
Subject: Re: Control stops
In a message dated 8/8/02 11:00:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kfackler(at)ameritech.net writes: > Does anyone have positive limit controls stops on their Kolb? > > On the rudder only, on my Firestar II. Shack FS II SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: Control stops
Date: Aug 08, 2002
My UltraStar had them. ...Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> Subject: Kolb-List: Control stops > > I had an EAA Technical Advisor do an inspection on my Kolb Mark II this > evening. One of the things he asked me was, "where are the controls stops?" > Turns out there aren't any. Nor did either of the ultralights I've owned. > The control limit was "as far as you can push the stick/pedal." > > Does anyone have positive limit controls stops on their Kolb? > > -Ken > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Control stops
MKIII has them on the ailerons and rudders. On the elevators you just run out of throw, so you don't need them there. Richard Pike MKIIi N420P (420ldPoops) > > >I had an EAA Technical Advisor do an inspection on my Kolb Mark II this >evening. One of the things he asked me was, "where are the controls stops?" >Turns out there aren't any. Nor did either of the ultralights I've owned. >The control limit was "as far as you can push the stick/pedal." > >Does anyone have positive limit controls stops on their Kolb? > >-Ken > > >--- >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: Control stops
On my FireStar II the drawings call for control stops on the rudder to stop it from hitting the elevator. I also put aileron control stops on by riveting a little fiber block to the top of the bell crank under the fuselage tube. This may be completely different from your set up. With out the aileron stops, the aileron tube would bottom out against the trailing edge of the wing stressing the hinges. Ron Payne -------Original Message------- From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Date: Thursday, August 08, 2002 10:02:53 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Control stops I had an EAA Technical Advisor do an inspection on my Kolb Mark II this evening. One of the things he asked me was, "where are the controls stops?" Turns out there aren't any. Nor did either of the ultralights I've owned. The control limit was "as far as you can push the stick/pedal." Does anyone have positive limit controls stops on their Kolb? -Ken _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: need wings
Date: Aug 09, 2002
George, I am in the process of recovering the wings on a 10 year old Mark II Twinstar. These older model planes used a normal steel rivet for the aileron hinges etc and are not hard to drill out. The current model planes use SS rivets and are a pain in the rear. Only a very slight oversize, if any, of the hole will normally occur when drilling them out and doesn't pose a problem. The aluminum rivets that are used to secure the fabric to the ribs are very easy to drill out. There shouldn't be much damage to the structure from normal wear and tear in my opinion. Some of the braces in the wing may need replacing, especially in the outboard section of the wing. If your concerned about the structural integrity of the fabric on the main wings and the tail section was covered at the same time and using the same method, I would suggest you replace it also. I have seen fabric testers advertised in different places that are supposed to be able to tell if the fabric is good by using a punch test. I have no experience with these at all, but would think that they are reliable as it is my understanding this method is used on certified planes. Good Luck, John Cooley FS II #1162 and rebuilding Twinstar Mark II My wings have never been damaged in any way but > the fabric is in question after 15 years. I know the rivets will spin and > cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their wings > without damaging anything? > I am asking for opinions. If you had a good flying Kolb Firestar that was > 15 years old, and does not have the Stitts silvercoat, would you recover It > with new fabric or just Duct tape it as necessary? > Original Message ----- > From: "Hjalmar Johannesson" <hjalm(at)ismennt.is> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: APilot(at)webtv.net (Vic Gibson)
Date: Aug 09, 2002
Subject: Geo on a Mark III
Just completed thrust testing. At 5000rpm with full pitch = 232lbs. At 6000rpm with flat pitch = 238lbs. Does anyone know if that is enough to fly a Kolb Mk III. Jeron at Raven says that I should be getting closer to 330lbs. Vic Gibson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: Thrust
I assume from your posting that you used some kind of a pull gage and that those where the indications. I am swaging here but it looks to me that *only* 16 pounds of additional thrust out of 1K increase in RPM is way too low. Way way too low. If the engine is runing properly (good combustion etc..) than it looks to me that you run out of RPM before you run out of power. In other words I would increase the pitch on the prop until the engine cannot exceed 6k rpm wot because of blade pitch bite. This is the only way for you to have thrust as the limiter on your RPM, and get max thrust at the same time. Ron >>>>>>>Just completed thrust testing. At 5000rpm with full pitch = 232lbs. At 6000rpm with flat pitch = 238lbs. Does anyone know if that is enough to fly a Kolb Mk III. Jeron at Raven says that I should be getting closer to 330lbs. Vic Gibson<<<<<<<<< ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: need wings
I disagree on that one. Once you take the rivits out of that thin tube there is no more strength left. The rivets will bring back a bit of the strength. Find an old piece of that 5/16 tube , drill a hole in it and see how easy it breaks, You will be shocked. If the fabric is just old but in good condition don't worry about it. Perhaps make a few inspection holes in the wing to check for inside damage but other than that if you can't poke the dull end of a pencil through the fabric it should be still good. Jim and Dondi will be happy to sell you a few supplies to make the needed patches. If done right the patches can become invisible. Of course this would be my own rude and crude way of doing it. Others may have other opinions. > >Why not just cut the fabric off, check the wings out carefully, and if they >are structurally sound,. poke the old rivits out, cover the ribs with tape >to eliminate the rivit divots, recover the wings and rib stitch them? No >structural degradation from what you have now, and only cost you the price >of a recover. >Richard Pike >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > > > > > > >The wings that Ken Korenek look great and would save me a lot of rebuild > >time, only one problem I think his price which is probably very reasonable > >for the time spent on them is more than my whole airplane is worth. I just > >need a copy of the original plans to repair the parts I will probably damage > >when I remove the fabric. My wings have never been damaged in any way but > >the fabric is in question after 15 years. I know the rivets will spin and > >cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their wings > >without damaging anything? > >I am asking for opinions. If you had a good flying Kolb Firestar that was > >15 years old, and does not have the Stitts silvercoat, would you recover It > >with new fabric or just Duct tape it as necessary? > >Original Message ----- > > >--- >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: Priming
To; Listers. Does anyone have any suggestions on priming the 4130 chrome molly parts. I am at the point where I have to attach some of those need some help in deciding which primer I should use, and if I should paint right away or waite untill I am done, and before covering? Ron Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Priming
Date: Aug 09, 2002
Talk to Jim & Dondi about Poly Fiber's 2 part epoxy primer. It's very good stuff.........I like it better than powder coating for several reasons. I used the little "Pre-Val" sprayer from A/C Spruce to apply it, and it worked like a charm. Good Stuff ! ! ! I used a little, portable sand blaster with glass beads to clean the parts, and I've never seen a better way to get down into the weld creases, etc and REALLY clean things. For heavy rust etc., use silica sand, but gently. Gogittum Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: <kugelair(at)netscape.net> Subject: Kolb-List: Priming > > To; Listers. > > > Does anyone have any suggestions on priming the 4130 chrome molly parts. I am at the point where I have to attach some of those need some help in deciding which primer I should use, and if I should paint right away or waite untill I am done, and before covering? > > Ron > > > Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: need wings
Date: Aug 09, 2002
An add-on thought.............if the fabric passes a punch test, but has cracks in the paint, what about that "re-juvenator" that Poly Fiber sells to soften & smooth older paint ?? Once again, ask Jim & Dondi. Non-Painter Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: need wings > > I disagree on that one. Once you take the rivits out of that thin tube > there is no more strength left. The rivets will bring back a bit of the > strength. Find an old piece of that 5/16 tube , drill a hole in it and see > how easy it breaks, You will be shocked. > If the fabric is just old but in good condition don't worry about it. > Perhaps make a few inspection holes in the wing to check for inside damage > but other than that if you can't poke the dull end of a pencil through the > fabric it should be still good. Jim and Dondi will be happy to sell you a > few supplies to make the needed patches. If done right the patches can > become invisible. > Of course this would be my own rude and crude way of doing it. Others > may have other opinions. > > > > > >Why not just cut the fabric off, check the wings out carefully, and if they > >are structurally sound,. poke the old rivits out, cover the ribs with tape > >to eliminate the rivit divots, recover the wings and rib stitch them? No > >structural degradation from what you have now, and only cost you the price > >of a recover. > >Richard Pike > >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > > > > > > > > > > > >The wings that Ken Korenek look great and would save me a lot of rebuild > > >time, only one problem I think his price which is probably very reasonable > > >for the time spent on them is more than my whole airplane is worth. I just > > >need a copy of the original plans to repair the parts I will probably damage > > >when I remove the fabric. My wings have never been damaged in any way but > > >the fabric is in question after 15 years. I know the rivets will spin and > > >cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their wings > > >without damaging anything? > > >I am asking for opinions. If you had a good flying Kolb Firestar that was > > >15 years old, and does not have the Stitts silvercoat, would you recover It > > >with new fabric or just Duct tape it as necessary? > > >Original Message ----- > > > > > >--- > >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: need wings
> I disagree on that one. Once you take the rivits out of that thin tube > there is no more strength left. > If the fabric is just old but in good condition don't worry about it. > Of course this would be my own rude and crude way of doing it. Others > may have other opinions. > Woody Woody/Gents: I agree with Woody. Recommend not leaving the rivets out of holes. I make it a habit to put a rivet in "uh oh" holes in anything that is structural or critical for flight. However, I disagree with his recommended action for the fabric. Individual indicated the fabric was 15 years old and did not have an Ultraviolet Block. Even with the fabric test with a certified fabric punch tester, I would go with pulling fabric and recovering. Insuring that I applied all necessary coats of Polybrush and Polyspray correctly. I would also use fabric rivets to attach the fabric. I personally think they do as good as, or better than rib stitching. One reason is the fabric rivet is easier for an inexperienced person to do successfully. Rib stitching that is less than snug or done incorrectly (even correctly) can be pulled loose in those inboard areas near the pusher prop on a Kolb. I have shared in the past of a Sling Shot that was rib stitched, did not hold and caused the owner a lot of grief until he went back and used fabric rivets to secure the loose fabric. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 09, 2002
Subject: Re: rivits
Group, Is there any problem with just drilling out the old rivit holes to the next size up and using the next size up rivits before replacing hinges etc when wings, ailrons, rudder etc and fabric has been removed for repair or refabric and repaint? Would that take care of the wobble and slightly oversized hole problems that result from a less than perfect drilling out of old rivits? Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Priming
> Does anyone have any suggestions on priming the 4130 chrome molly parts. > Ron Ron/Gents: I always use Polyfiber Epoxy Chromate Primer. Parts primed with it can be covered without painting. If you are gonna paint it, it needs to be done soon, a couple of days at most, after priming. Best yet, check the Polyfiber Manual for specific instructions or the label on the can. Of primary importance is prep of the 4130. Bead blasting is a good way to clean and etch so the primer will have to teeth to hold on. I have used phosphoric acid etch for many years. Jim Miller, Polyfiber Expert, tells me I am wrong, but I use it anyhow on 4130 and especially alum. Been using it for 18 years on three different Kolbs with good success. That is proof enough for me. Don't heart much on this list about using tube seal.. I also have used it since Ultrastar days in 1984. Just did the repair work on my 1991 Mark III tail post. Cut out a section to replace. Inside of tailpost was in good shape dispite the fact that water had gotten in over the years. However, the inside of the tailpost had had a liberal injection of Stitts Tube Seal (probably called Polyfiber Tube Seal) on several occassions over the years. Might add that the quart of tube seal was purchased from Ron and Sue Alexander of Alexander Airplane Company in Griffin, GA, in 1984. I still have enough to do a couple more airframes from that same original quart. If you don't tube seal it, 4130 will rust and you won't know it until it fails. To me it is like flying polyester dacron covered Kolb with no UV block. Can't tell by looking at it, but sooner or later it will fail. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: need wings
> > > I disagree on that one. Once you take the rivits out of that thin tube >there is no more strength left. The rivets will bring back a bit of the >strength. Find an old piece of that 5/16 tube , drill a hole in it and see >how easy it breaks, You will be shocked. How does having rivets in a tube make it stronger? It would be interesting to see if there is a measurable difference between breaking a 5/16" tube with a rivet in it, and breaking one without. I really don't think you would see much difference, other than possibly in compression. But you are totally correct that a 5/16" tube with a 1/8" hole in it is weak. That is why my MKIII is rib stitched. Richrad Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: rivits
> >Group, > >Is there any problem with just drilling out the old rivit holes to the next >size up and using the next size up rivits before replacing hinges etc when >wings, ailrons, rudder etc and fabric has been removed for repair or refabric >and repaint? Would that take care of the wobble and slightly oversized hole >problems that result from a less than perfect drilling out of old rivits? Rivets are designed to expand and fill up holes. Slightly large holes from drilling out old rivets should not hurt. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: need wings
> How does having rivets in a tube make it stronger? Richard/Gang: I don't think it makes it stronger, but probably not as weak. Can't prove it scientifically, but tube is stronger with the hole filled with rivet than it is without. I look at it like the perferation of a piece of paper. Easy to tear with perferations, a little more difficult without. > But you are totally correct that a 5/16" tube with a 1/8" hole in it is weak. Right on. > That is why my MKIII is rib stitched. But is it a hole if it is filled with a very tight rivet? I have had tubes fail in flight because they had 1/8 inch holes drilled in them. Problem is, difficult to build an airplane without drilling lotsa holes in them. Have never had a problem with ribs and fabric rivets. Guarantee, my ribs have been thoroughly tested on all three of my Kolbs. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: rivits
Date: Aug 09, 2002
My own feeling is that drilling larger holes in 5/16" tubing is going to give a weaker grip, since there's less "shoulder" to hold the rivet. I believe it'll pull out easier,and since I'm still enjoying an extended vacation (in Vancouver, B.C., now), I'll invite one or more of you to put it to the test. If you bend drilled 5/16" tubing, it will break...........with or without a rivet in it. Remember the test I published a year or so ago, with pictures, about repairing an ovalled hole ?? The epoxy filling made it a little stronger, but not enuf for no never-mind. Thing is............the ribs aren't flexing enuf to make none...........plenty strong enuf, so rivet the fabric, or stitch it.........your choice. Tubing Buster Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: <SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rivits > > Group, > > Is there any problem with just drilling out the old rivit holes to the next > size up and using the next size up rivits before replacing hinges etc when > wings, ailrons, rudder etc and fabric has been removed for repair or refabric > and repaint? Would that take care of the wobble and slightly oversized hole > problems that result from a less than perfect drilling out of old rivits? > > Steve > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: rivits
> Is there any problem with just drilling out the old rivit holes to the next > size up and using the next size up rivits before replacing hinges etc when > wings, ailrons, rudder etc and fabric has been removed for repair or refabric > and repaint? Steve Steve/Gang: Not necessary to go to the next size unless the builder/repairer is totally "ham fisted". It is not that difficult to do. Must be patient and take your time. I pulled fabric from my damaged left MK III wing Spring 2001. Drilled out all fabric rivets, plus hundreds of SS rivets in the flap and aileron hinges. Note: I make my hinges longer than the plans call for, therefore even more SS rivet to drill out. I drilled until I got tired. Went to another requirement, then came back to rivet removal when I felt like it. Eventually, it was done. No need for any oversize rivets. With a rivet every .5 inches, it will not degrade the strength of the airplane to have a screwed up rivet occassionally. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 10, 2002
Subject: Re: rivits
Thanks guys, next time I will use the techniques you have outlined - but a while back I had removed the hinges on the rudder, elevators, and ailerons to refabric and did not do the rivet drilling as pretty as I could do now that I have more experience, so I went to the next size to avoid looseness from occurring. Since I have already gone and done it, is there any problem that anyone foresees that may develop? Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: rivits
Since I have already gone and done it, is there any problem that > anyone foresees that may develop? > > Steve Steve/Gents: Edge clearance is critical. By going to the next larger size rivet on the hinges, it could create a weaker condition. Don't know if it is a good idea to drill larger holes in the rivets than called for. Larger holes weaken the tubes more. Did you also go for larger fabric rivets? john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Rivet Removal
Aircraft Spruce sells a rivet removal tool. I bought one and would not be without one especially if I were going to recover and repair a Kolb aircraft At around $70.00 kind of expensive but I feel well worth it. It holds the rivet from spinning while drilling out the body. Rib stitching is not recommended on tube type ribs. Check with Jim or Dondi Miller on this. Ron Payne ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Cross-threaded spark plug
Date: Aug 10, 2002
I seem to have a cross-threated spark plug hole in my Rotax 503. The plug goes in at a distinct angle and won't go in all the way. Is there any fix for this, or am I (groan!) looking at a new head? -Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: Cross-threaded spark plug
There is a fix called a heli-coil where you drill out the plug hole and tap it to fit the heli-coil. Insert the heli-coil and screw the spart plug into it. If it were mine though, I would go with a new head. Don't know what they cost but for piece of mind that's what I would do. Ron Payne -------Original Message------- From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Date: Saturday, August 10, 2002 08:16:55 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Cross-threaded spark plug I seem to have a cross-threated spark plug hole in my Rotax 503. The plug goes in at a distinct angle and won't go in all the way. Is there any fix for this, or am I (groan!) looking at a new head? -Ken _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: need wings
Date: Aug 10, 2002
----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: need wings > An add-on thought.............if the fabric passes a punch test, but has > cracks in the paint, what about that "re-juvenator" that Poly Fiber sells to > soften & smooth older paint ?? Once again, ask Jim & Dondi. > Non-Painter Lar. > Hi all, I used this method last year to repaint my MKIII wings after noticing I had some paint cracks in the flaps . The rejuvinator eliminated the cracks completely and now after a year and a half and 85 hrs flying, it still looks good. Frank Reynen MKIII /912/Lotus floats @795 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: need wings
> The rejuvinator eliminated the cracks completely and now after a year and a > half and 85 hrs flying, it still looks good. > > Frank Reynen MKIII /912/Lotus floats @795 hrs Frank/Gents: What kind of paint did you use the rejuvenator on? Polytone or Aerothane? Don't know if it can be used on aerothane. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: need wings
Date: Aug 10, 2002
John, I used it on Polytone Frank ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: need wings > > > > The rejuvinator eliminated the cracks completely and now after a year and a > > half and 85 hrs flying, it still looks good. > > > > Frank Reynen MKIII /912/Lotus floats @795 hrs > > Frank/Gents: > > What kind of paint did you use the rejuvenator on? Polytone > or Aerothane? > > Don't know if it can be used on aerothane. > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Cross-threaded spark plug
> > >I seem to have a cross-threated spark plug hole in my Rotax 503. The >plug goes in at a distinct angle and won't go in all the way. Is there >any fix for this, or am I (groan!) looking at a new head? > >-Ken Years ago I worked in a motorcycle shop, and there is a chance this head can be saved. There is a tool called a spark plug hole chaser. It has threads on it like a spark plug hole tap, and it is designed to clean up the threads or cut the carbon off any threads where it has accumulated. Take the head off. Very carefully start the chaser from the underside - underside- of the head, be positive it is going in straight. If it is going in straight, screw it in until it bottoms out. Keep it well lubricated with oil during this process. If very much crud accumulates, back it up a bit, clean the crud off, and continue. After you get done, carefully examine the threads. If you have only had to recut the first couple of threads, you will be OK. If you had to recut a lot of them, get a new head. The B8ES plugs are pretty long, and if only the first couple of threads in the head are screwed up, you will have enough threads left to work OK. After you get done, be sure the plugs will go to full torque. Use a good torque wrench. Recheck the torque every few hours to be sure nothing is loosening up. If there is any doubt about the success of the repair, get a new head. The only reason for getting a new head is because it is for aircraft use. I have put helicoils in motorcycle heads for plug holes and never had any (known) trouble with any of them. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Thank you much I'll call them Monday. The glass bead blasting is a great idea and I was already kinda thinking about it. Harbor Freight has a unit like that. It could be usefull for many other things as well. Ron Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: anti rust foaming?
Thank you, excellent advise as well. As I am sitting here thinking about it. The thought of injecting expanding foam into those tubes is pinging in my mind. anyone tried that? It seems to me that it may seal those tubes airtight and replace all air in those tubes. It also may change the acoustics of the airframe, which could be bad or good. :-) Ron ********************* I always use Polyfiber Epoxy Chromate Primer. Parts primed with it can be covered without painting. If you are gonna paint it, it needs to be done soon, a couple of days at most, after priming. Best yet, check the Polyfiber Manual for specific instructions or the label on the can. Of primary importance is prep of the 4130. Bead blasting is a good way to clean and etch so the primer will have to teeth to hold on. I have used phosphoric acid etch for many years. Jim Miller, Polyfiber Expert, tells me I am wrong, but I use it anyhow on 4130 and especially alum. Been using it for 18 years on three different Kolbs with good success. That is proof enough for me. Don't heart much on this list about using tube seal.. I also have used it since Ultrastar days in 1984. Just did the repair work on my 1991 Mark III tail post. Cut out a section to replace. Inside of tailpost was in good shape dispite the fact that water had gotten in over the years. However, the inside of the tailpost had had a liberal injection of Stitts Tube Seal (probably called Polyfiber Tube Seal) on several occassions over the years. Might add that the quart of tube seal was purchased from Ron and Sue Alexander of Alexander Airplane Company in Griffin, GA, in 1984. I still have enough to do a couple more airframes from that same original quart. If you don't tube seal it, 4130 will rust and you won't know it until it fails. To me it is like flying polyester dacron covered Kolb with no UV block. Can't tell by looking at it, but sooner or later it will fail. Take care, Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
The thought of injecting expanding foam into those tubes is pinging in my mind. anyone tried that? > Ron Ron/Gents: Tube seal has been used to seal and prevent rust in 4130 tubular airframes since day one. It is a tried and proven method. If you want to get radical with your own method, you should contact Steve in Turlock and Snuffy Smith in PA. I bet you three could really cook up some good formulas. hehehe :-) Seriously, experimentation is fine to a certain extent. But there are some processes and procedures that have been developed over the long haul that aren't going to be improved on, unless you wish to reinvent the wheel and spend heaps of money in the process. What looks like airtight welds on your fuselage will prove otherwise once you have injected tubeseal. It will find any pin holes that are there. I go down to my local vet and get a large hypodermic needle and seringe. Dill either 3/32 or 1/8 holes in the tubes, inject the proper amount of tube seal (indicated on the label for different size tubes), seal the hole with a closed in alum pop rivet. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh, peace of mind that the 4130 will not rust and allow my body to fall through the airframe, in flight................ john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Date: Aug 10, 2002
> you should contact Steve in Turlock and Snuffy Smith in PA. > I bet you three could really cook up some good formulas. > hehehe :-) Heh John, Watch it!!! I resemble that remark!!! hehehe ;o) Maybe we could mix the foam with WD 40..........Hmmmmmmmm Watcha tink Steve? Don't achive!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: tubes
Ron, --tube seal or linseed oil diluted with lacquer thinner, good idea. Expanding foam, really bad idea. The cells break down and any moisture getting in is wicked up and held like a sponge. (bad) experience is my source. -BB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Date: Aug 10, 2002
Steve > > Well Kirk, Some see the Kolb as it is and ask "why?" - some see the Kolb as > > it could be and ask "why not?". I believe that you and I fall into the > > latter group. John > never changed dimensions of airfoils, wing span, tail > section; Snuffy, I didn't either! On the one wing. So what if I put the tail on the front. It's my airplane! On a serious note. Did anybody ever come up with a good solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in winter, out of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube. ..... :o) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
> Did anybody ever come up with a good > solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in winter, out > of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube. ..... Kirk Kirk/Guys: That was also beat to death. Somebody, IIRC, sprayed foam insulation into the end of the tailboom. Result was the inside portion of foam didn't want to cure. I think it may have confilicted with proper movement of cables also. Check the archives. There foam insulation/tail boom/cold air information in there. My Mark III does not have that problem. Checked it out last winter. Besides, if I closed off the tail boom the rats and squirrels would get mad at me and eat my fabric. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: KITTY HAWK USA
Date: Aug 10, 2002
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Ballenger" <ulpilot(at)cavtel.net> Subject: Kolb-List: KITTY HAWK USA thanks to Mr. Kolb > and the Wright brothers for a wonderful Saturday morning flight. > > Jim Ballenger > FS KXP 447 > Virgina Beach, VA :o)))) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Date: Aug 10, 2002
> > Steve > > > Well Kirk, Some see the Kolb as it is and ask "why?" - some see the Kolb > as > > > it could be and ask "why not?". I believe that you and I fall into the > > > latter group. Steve , It's all a diversionary tatic by those Ex-military guys . You see, "squirrels in the fuselage tube" is code talk for the latest technology coming out of Hauck Brothers Skunk Works. I have inside info that they are using small animals trained to run up and down the tube to adjust cg and trim in flight. Clever but we're on to their plans. An escaped possum has talked.............Snuffy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jimh474(at)velocityonline.net>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Date: Aug 10, 2002
Kirk: Us ex-military Hauck boys work in the "Mole Hole". We don't tolerate skunks. You are close on the CG theory, But we put a tread mill in the Tail Tube which is connected to a generator that the varmints energize by running on the tread mill. But we ain't saying what the generator powers. :<) Jim Hauck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: Anti rust foaming!
Well I have used the expanding foam for a few years and I can assure anyone that the 3x expanding foam will not absorb moisture (infact its used as a moisture block if I remember the instructions correctly), and as far as i can tell won't break down from oil and any other chemical known to man (if you get it on you or your cloths, you will never get it off except maybe Aceton or MEK). As I have had time to ponder today while flying on a charter, I figured if I place those tubes in oven (with the exahust fan on, only god knows what kinda crapazui is inside of those tubes) let it bake for about 35 minutes at 350f let it cool down to about 150f and inject it full of triple expanding foam. right off I cannot think of a down side to it,,, right off!!!! I am fairly certain that feeling a tube that conducts cold air in winter (not a factor in Arizona) would stop any such cold air from sucking heat out of the cabin. Heck we are already exploiting this idea. :-) Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: Criters in the tubes.
Hahahahaha Right! Here it would be the crickets!!! on second thought maybe I would finally be able to hear the engine if I getem outta there! *************** My Mark III does not have that problem. Checked it out last winter. Besides, if I closed off the tail boom the rats and squirrels would get mad at me and eat my fabric. john h Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Arlyn G. Moen" <amoen(at)ndak.net>
Subject: flying
Date: Aug 10, 2002
Went flying tonight with my ultrastar. It still impresses me... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
Subject: Re: Cross-threaded spark plug
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Ken and Ron, There was a Firestar owner that crossthreaded the front head and put in a heli-coil. After that he was complaining about the EGT running high on that cylinder. He ended up getting a new head. You might be able to save it using '420ldPoops' method. Good Luck. Ralph Burlingame Original Firestar 15 years flying it writes: > > There is a fix called a heli-coil where you drill out the plug hole > and tap > it to fit the heli-coil. Insert the heli-coil and screw the spart > plug into > it. If it were mine though, I would go with a new head. Don't know > what they > cost but for piece of mind that's what I would do. > > Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Cross-threaded spark plug
If you haven't butchered the threads aren't to bad, you might be able to run a spark plug thread chaser of the proper size in the hole to straighten them out. There is some risk in doing so. If you have cut up the threads to much the plug may strip out the remaining threads and may do it while the engine is being flown. A Heli-Coil can be done and probably would be the recommended repair out side of actual replacement of the head. Last you might contact the gentleman listed below. Tom repairs Rotax's and is one of the best in the business. He's a straight shooter. He may have a good used head off a engine taken out of service or provide a new one at a fare price. Tom Olenik Olenik Aviation mailto:olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com www.buyitsellitfixit.com/rotax.htm Good luck, jerryb > >I seem to have a cross-threated spark plug hole in my Rotax 503. The >plug goes in at a distinct angle and won't go in all the way. Is there >any fix for this, or am I (groan!) looking at a new head? > >-Ken > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re:
Date: Aug 10, 2002
Make sure you get a compressor with RESERVE capacity to handle that blaster. I borrowed one from work, along with the blaster, and it wasn't quite up to the task. It worked, but I had to go in fits & starts, to give it time to build pressure in the tank between blasts. Frustrating, and the price difference isn't very much............get the good one. Also, use a ground sheet, or similar to catch the beads...........not so much for re-use, as for clean-up. Makes it a LOT easier. Been There Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: <kugelair(at)netscape.net> > > Thank you much I'll call them Monday. The glass bead blasting is a great idea and I was already kinda thinking about it. Harbor Freight has a unit like that. It could be usefull for many other things as well. > > Ron > > Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: tubes
Date: Aug 10, 2002
As usual, you're right on the money, Bob. This triggered the memory of my old '62, 19' Glastron runabout. Original floor rotted out & broke loose in heavy seas off Cape Flattery in '89. (It were a fun & interesting (??) trip back - all 25+ miles of it from Swiftsure Bank to Neah Bay, in heavy seas, heavy cross chop, incoming wind, outgoing tide, and a "rubber" floor.) Completely rebuilt it, and filled it with Coast Guard approved 2 part urethane expanding foam. Guess I should build another web page............took lots of pics of the procedure, and several knowledgable people complimented me on the job. Anyhow..........even tho' I completely encapsulated everything with marine plywood & epoxy, somehow, somewhere, water got in, and that "waterproof" foam soaked up a couple hundred pounds of salt water. Opened it up, and it WOULD NOT dry out. Never did figure out a good answer to that one. Far as I know, it's still going strong. Again, Been There Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Bean" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> Subject: Kolb-List: tubes > > Ron, --tube seal or linseed oil diluted with lacquer thinner, good idea. > > Expanding foam, really bad idea. The cells break down and any > moisture getting in is wicked up and held like a sponge. (bad) > experience > is my source. -BB > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Date: Aug 10, 2002
Ya know, John, you just gave me a thought..........and it didn't split my skull ! ! ! Had a little dog for a short time, years ago, that liked to chew on things...........including my refrigerator power cord. She never again even sniffed at a wire. Once burnt.............! ! ! Maybe you could install a "dummy" cord in the tail boom this winter for the rats to nibble on, before they get to the good stuff. If it were plugged into 110 VAC..............??? Might be interesting. Sadist Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: anti rust foaming? > > > > Did anybody ever come up with a good > > solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in winter, out > > of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube. ..... > Kirk > > Kirk/Guys: > > That was also beat to death. Somebody, IIRC, sprayed foam > insulation into the end of the tailboom. Result was the > inside portion of foam didn't want to cure. I think it may > have confilicted with proper movement of cables also. > > Check the archives. There foam insulation/tail boom/cold > air information in there. > > My Mark III does not have that problem. Checked it out last > winter. Besides, if I closed off the tail boom the rats and > squirrels would get mad at me and eat my fabric. > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Date: Aug 10, 2002
Prob'ly to power the B.S. wheel. nerk nerk Do not Archive. ----- Original Message ----- From: <jimh474(at)velocityonline.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: anti rust foaming? > > Kirk: > > Us ex-military Hauck boys work in the "Mole Hole". We don't tolerate skunks. > > You are close on the CG theory, But we put a tread mill in the Tail Tube > which is connected to a generator that the varmints energize by running on > the tread mill. But we ain't saying what the generator powers. > :<) > > Jim Hauck > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: Re:
Well in regards to the compressor I am already bracing for agony. I bought one on sale (Wall Mart) a few years back, and you are right about fits and starts. I'll try it out tomorrow and see just how bad it is. I can always go and beg for a bigger one from the guys next door, but thats last resort, as it starts a chain of reciprocating transactions, my O ring kit will attest to. Its mostly gone and as of yet I used none. ********** >Make sure you get a compressor with RESERVE capacity to handle that blaster. >I borrowed one from work, along with the blaster, and it wasn't quite up to >the task. It worked, but I had to go in fits & starts, to give it time to >build pressure in the tank between blasts. Frustrating, and the price >difference isn't very much............get the good one. Also, use a ground >sheet, or similar to catch the beads...........not so much for re-use, as >for clean-up. Makes it a LOT easier. Been There Lar. > >----- Original Message ----- >From: <kugelair(at)netscape.net> >To: > > >> >> Thank you much I'll call them Monday. The glass bead blasting is a great >idea and I was already kinda thinking about it. Harbor Freight has a unit >like that. It could be usefull for many other things as well. >> >> Ron >> >> Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only >$2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ >> >> > > Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net>
Subject: Cross-threaded spark plug
Date: Aug 11, 2002
I can vouch for Tom's expertise. He repaired a cross threaded 503 head for me. Used something a little different than a helicoil, works perfectly, no leaks or other problems. Dave Rains -----Original Message----- From: jerryb [SMTP:ulflyer(at)airmail.net] Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Cross-threaded spark plug If you haven't butchered the threads aren't to bad, you might be able to run a spark plug thread chaser of the proper size in the hole to straighten them out. There is some risk in doing so. If you have cut up the threads to much the plug may strip out the remaining threads and may do it while the engine is being flown. A Heli-Coil can be done and probably would be the recommended repair out side of actual replacement of the head. Last you might contact the gentleman listed below. Tom repairs Rotax's and is one of the best in the business. He's a straight shooter. He may have a good used head off a engine taken out of service or provide a new one at a fare price. Tom Olenik Olenik Aviation mailto:olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com www.buyitsellitfixit.com/rotax.htm Good luck, jerryb > >I seem to have a cross-threated spark plug hole in my Rotax 503. The >plug goes in at a distinct angle and won't go in all the way. Is there >any fix for this, or am I (groan!) looking at a new head? > >-Ken > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Cockpit critters
Date: Aug 11, 2002
Seems like a pet snake may be in order........A well fed snake is a happy snake............Snuffy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DCREECH3(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 11, 2002
Subject: Re: Ignition failure
In the air yesterday my tach began showing about half the actual engine RPM, e.g. 2500 instead of 5000, but still responsive to throttle changes. Upon landing I discovered that the engine was running on one ignition. (It's a Rotax 503 with dual CDI ignition; the tach is a mini digital tach with a pickup wire that wraps around a sparkplug lead.) Question: does the behavior of the tach have any diagnostic significance, as far as pointing to what specifically is wrong? Any troubleshooting tips would be appreciated. Thanks. Lee in Ky Firestar II ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Criters in the tubes.
> >*************** >My Mark III does not have that problem. Checked it out last >winter. Besides, if I closed off the tail boom the rats and >squirrels would get mad at me and eat my fabric. > >john h Ya John, they would. They wouldn't be able to run out and get food so they would be forced live by eating the insulation off your wires. :8 ) jerryb ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
A little more than a year ago, Mister Hauck was having gnawing pains in the area of his Kolb. Many nostrums (nostrii? nostrils?) were broached, among which was my suggestion to put the tail wheel on a brick--or something similar--set in a pan of Clorox. I was immediately reminded (not by John) that Clorox was hydrochloric acid and would seriously corrode aluminum in short order. My reply was that Clorox is not HCL, but contains weak hypochlorous acid. To substantiate my claim that household bleach would not cause much if any corrosion of AL, I bought a frozen chicken pot pie, heated and ate it, leaving a nice very thin pan which I filled with bleach. Left it out in the barn (similar conditions of hangar) with a scrap of old C172 elevator skin--0.025 AL. It's been there more than a year, with periodic refills of bleach, due to evaporation and possible a small drink by Resident Rat. The pan has not been affected except for a light grey discoloration. The scrap of 0.025 still mics out at 0.027 due to one side previously zinc chromated--and no pitting. Conclusion: I doubt that bleach will seriously corrode our dainty vehicles. Bob N. http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gilan" <gilan(at)gate.net>
Subject: RE:
Date: Aug 11, 2002
well I had some very diluted household bleach destroy a office water cooler. I wanted to clean the inside of an office water cooler. The kind you put a 5 gallon water bottle on top of. Well I put just a small amount of bleach in the remaining water and let it sit. I forgot about it for 2 weeks and the reason I remembered to go clean it up is because holes were eaten through the metal container and water started leaking on the floor. I used plain old Clorox in some water and it was a powerful acid to my water cooler. It might not hurt aluminum but it will eat steal like butter. I'll send you pictures if you want to see the holes. I patched the steal tank and the cooler still works but I'll never leave bleach in any metal container again. Talk to you later http://www.mitchellwing.com Join "The Ultralight & Experimental Aircraft SiteRing" http://pub27.bravenet.com/sitering/nav.php?usernum=2286862090&action=join&si teid=38879 Gator's annual Fly-in http://www.mitchellwing.com/flying_gators_annual_fly.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of bob n Subject: A little more than a year ago, Mister Hauck was having gnawing pains in the area of his Kolb. Many nostrums (nostrii? nostrils?) were broached, among which was my suggestion to put the tail wheel on a brick--or something similar--set in a pan of Clorox. I was immediately reminded (not by John) that Clorox was hydrochloric acid and would seriously corrode aluminum in short order. My reply was that Clorox is not HCL, but contains weak hypochlorous acid. To substantiate my claim that household bleach would not cause much if any corrosion of AL, I bought a frozen chicken pot pie, heated and ate it, leaving a nice very thin pan which I filled with bleach. Left it out in the barn (similar conditions of hangar) with a scrap of old C172 elevator skin--0.025 AL. It's been there more than a year, with periodic refills of bleach, due to evaporation and possible a small drink by Resident Rat. The pan has not been affected except for a light grey discoloration. The scrap of 0.025 still mics out at 0.027 due to one side previously zinc chromated--and no pitting. Conclusion: I doubt that bleach will seriously corrode our dainty vehicles. Bob N. http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: RE:
You know that got me thinking. Why doncha add a metal screw or better yet a s/s pop rivet. Just sit the pop rivet on top of that 2024 aluminum piece. I am suspecting that you have all the ingridients except the Anod (or is the Cathod) I always mix those two up. Anyway to make your experiment more life like you need two dismilar metals, and a pop rivet (or is it rivit,, Southern like) is what we got on our birds. If chlorox is really corrosive you can tell us in about 1 week if you have seen any corrosion. :-) Ron bob n wrote: > >A little more than a year ago, Mister Hauck was having gnawing pains in >the area of his Kolb. Many nostrums (nostrii? nostrils?) were broached, >among which was my suggestion to put the tail wheel on a brick--or >something similar--set in a pan of Clorox. I was immediately reminded >(not by John) that Clorox was hydrochloric acid and would seriously >corrode aluminum in short order. My reply was that Clorox is not HCL, >but contains weak hypochlorous acid. > >To substantiate my claim that household bleach would not cause much if >any corrosion of AL, I bought a frozen chicken pot pie, heated and ate >it, leaving a nice very thin pan which I filled with bleach. Left it out >in the barn (similar conditions of hangar) with a scrap of old C172 >elevator skin--0.025 AL. > >It's been there more than a year, with periodic refills of bleach, due >to evaporation and possible a small drink by Resident Rat. The pan has >not been affected except for a light grey discoloration. The scrap of >0.025 still mics out at 0.027 due to one side previously zinc >chromated--and no pitting. > >Conclusion: I doubt that bleach will seriously corrode our dainty >vehicles. > >Bob N. > >http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy > > Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Air compressor
Date: Aug 11, 2002
For what it's worth..........I've used a Sears diaphragm (dry) compressor for my blasting & priming and had to rebuild it twice. Next time it goes I'll get a piston type and turn the old unit into a portable air tank. Rex Rodebush Well in regards to the compressor I am already bracing for agony. I bought one on sale (Wall Mart) a few years back, and you are right about fits and starts. I'll try it out tomorrow and see just how bad it is. I can always go and beg for a bigger one from the guys next door, but thats last resort, as it starts a chain of reciprocating transactions, my O ring kit will attest to. Its mostly gone and as of yet I used none. ********** >Make sure you get a compressor with RESERVE capacity to handle that blaster. >I borrowed one from work, along with the blaster, and it wasn't quite up to >the task. It worked, but I had to go in fits & starts, to give it time to >build pressure in the tank between blasts. Frustrating, and the price >difference isn't very much............get the good one. Also, use a ground >sheet, or similar to catch the beads...........not so much for re ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel and bleach
Wal, ol' John had all these varmints a-gnawin' on his wiring. One of the ways the critters used to enter was up the tail wheel and into the tube/lunchroom. If bricks aren't available, most any fairly solid three dimensional object would do. A more complete explanation: most critters don't like to go skinny-dippin in nasty stuff, like Clorox, which they would do in transversing from rim of pan to brick/rock/et ceteras. As far as adding other metals that differ to produce a cathodic reaction--that is a different chemical process than just the "eatin" away thing. And indeed bleach may "attack" steel more vigorously than aluminum. The original warning dealt with aluminum--"... fumes from Clorox will eat aluminum..." Think John has mostly got a fix on the critters, so all the foregoing is just an academic(?) exercise. Bob N. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
Subject: [ Dennis Kirby ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Dennis Kirby Subject: No-windshield Mark-III http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil.08.11.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
Subject: [ Gregg Waligroski ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Gregg Waligroski Subject: Disc Brakes on Kolb Firestar http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/fly3g@earthlink.net.08.11.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: BLIMP!!!!!
Hello fellow flyers, this is not kolb related so do not read on if your a golfer!!! i just saw the blimp fly over the house and being their holding the pga here next week i will see alot of action around here being that i'am only 3 miles from the golf course in chaska. i may be able to get a shot of the blimp or better yet, Tiger woods, if they let me get that close, i'am checking into flying restrictions. thanks, Gary r. voigt two cylinders are still alive!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: Bugs and Bleach, and a Kolb!
Maybe the critters have dirty feet. >>I've tried, but I can not come up with a situation where having the tailwheel resting in a pond of bleach would be desirable...<<< Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
If you ever have to repair a tube by welding, will the foam present a problem? ******************** No not at all. The foam will vaporize. I don't even think it will catch on fire. I tried to light some up, back when I found out just how nasty it is. It didn't even want to burn well. Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: photo share of Mk111 ????
> >For what it's worth..........I've used a Sears diaphragm (dry) >compressor for my blasting & priming and had to rebuild it twice. Next >time it goes I'll get a piston type and turn the old unit into a >portable air tank. > >Rex Rodebush > > >Well in regards to the compressor I am already bracing for agony. I >bought one on sale (Wall Mart) a few years back, and you are right about >fits and starts. >I'll try it out tomorrow and see just how bad it is. I can always go and >beg for a bigger one from the guys next door, but thats last resort, as >it starts a chain of reciprocating transactions, my O ring kit will >attest to. Its mostly gone and as of yet I used none. > >********** > >Make sure you get a compressor with RESERVE capacity to handle that >blaster. > >I borrowed one from work, along with the blaster, and it wasn't quite >up to > >the task. It worked, but I had to go in fits & starts, to give it time >to > >build pressure in the tank between blasts. Frustrating, and the price > >difference isn't very much............get the good one. Also, use a >ground > >sheet, or similar to catch the beads...........not so much for re > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: photo share of Mk111 ????
Oooops hit the wrong button. The photo share claiming to be a Mk111 with out a windshield looks like a Twinstar to me ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: BLIMP!!!!!
Had the same thing here last month for the senior PGA He cruised up and down my runway at 500 ft all day. > > Hello fellow flyers, this is not kolb related so do not >read on if your a golfer!!! i just saw the blimp fly over >the house and being their holding the pga here next week i >will see alot of action around here being that i'am only 3 >miles from the golf course in chaska. i may be able to get a >shot of the blimp or better yet, Tiger woods, if they let me >get that close, i'am checking into flying restrictions. > > thanks, > Gary r. voigt > two cylinders are still alive!!! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 11, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re:
Don't breath the fumes from the foam - depending what the foam is made it can be really bad for you. Doesn't take a lot. jerryb > >If you ever have to repair a tube by welding, will the foam present a >problem? >******************** > >No not at all. The foam will vaporize. I don't even think it will catch on >fire. I tried to light some up, back when I found out just how nasty it >is. It didn't even want to burn well. > >Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only >$2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bklebon4(at)cs.com
Date: Aug 12, 2002
Subject: Re: Cross-threaded spark plug
About 20 years ago I had a spark plug pop out of the engine on my Volks. bug. Took the threads with it. The local Volks. shop tapped in a helicoil, and the new plug threaded right in. They didn't even have to remove the engine from the car. If I remember correctly, it cost me about $40. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: pig roast
Our southern Ontario pig roast went very well last weekend.10 Aircraft dropped in and only one was factory iron. Kolb was represented by 2 aircraft.Andy had his mk 111 and I trailered my Thunderbird in. I was able to give 4 people their first flights in an airplane and list member Warren Barnscomb his first ride in a Mk111. Bill Futrell (Thumb) and the missus were there also with photos of his beautifull mk111 extra. I gotta get out and see that one. 300 other people showed up and kept the party going to after midnight. Hey we are not teenagers anymore, midnight is late for me :) Hopefully this will become an annual event again. Judging from the reaction of the people it will be. Hope to see more of you there next year. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
I was the one that put spray foam in the fuselage tube. I used a product called Tuff Stuff. I wasn't real careful about how much I sprayed in. On the bottom it filled the tube for over a foot but only a few inches on top. It took over a week to cure and when it did it grabbed on to the lower elevator cable big time. I had a tough time freeing up the lower elevator cable. Now that its done I have the fuselage tube filled except were the cables go thru. There is now only minimal air flow through the fuselage tube and the mice that once visited my airplane do so no longer. I don't recommend this method. When I was done I pulled the cables back and forth so that I could inspect the full length of the cables for damage without pulling the swaged ends thru the foam. I didn't find any damage but I felt better. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII <<< Did anybody ever come up with a good solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in winter, out of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube. ..... :o)>>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2002
From: Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Special Discount Offer for Aviation Tools
Scott Perkins wrote: Here is a family run aviation tools operation that may have some attractive deals ? ? ? check em out and see. I just said I would be glad to forward info if they had some good deals. Basically, go to http://www.planetools.com2 and complete the customer survey. In the last note section type that you were referred by Scott Perkins and that you are entitled to a 20% discount. ... makes it look like I'm getting kickback ... I swear I'm not : ) their email address is mailto:planetools(at)cox.net Here is the quote from message sent to me: > We have high-quality industrial tools available at 20% discount for your > organization. We have made it easy for you to receive your discount on > any purchases. Instructions are at the end of this letter. > > Our inventory includes new, reconditioned and excellent used aircraft > tools including: > > * Rivet Guns & Special Rivet Sets for most aircraft rivets > * Drills, Bits, Reamers and Taps > * Magnavon Countersink Cages and Countersink Bits > * Nut Runners and Wedgelock Guns > * Bucking Bars > * Quick Change 1/4-28 Chucks and Bits > * Riveters Tape > * Torque Wrenches > * Weldon Deburr Bits > * 1/4-28 Angle Drills > * Hi Loc Pliers > > Our new rivet guns are available in special configurations and may be > uniquely identified to you. Reconditioned tools are as good as new. Used > tools are in excellent condition and will perform as good as new. You > will realize a significant savings when purchasing our high quality > industrial tools. > > We are adding new items daily. Our upcoming new hand tool lines include > Proto, Armstrong and other high quality aviation tools. > > Here are a few examples: > > * Isham's New Lifetime Warranty Rivet Gun, Your choice of "Stubby", > 200A, 300A or 400A -- Reg. $299.95, Our Price $224.95, After > Discount $179.96 > * New 3X Taylor Rivet Gun -- Reg. $239.95, Our Price $184.95, After > Discount $147.96 > * New T88881B Palm Air Drill -- Reg. $145.95, Our Price $119.95, > After Discount $95.96 > * New Rivnut Puller -- Our Price $99.95, After Discount $79.96 > * Used Countersink in New Condition -- Magnavon #2164 -- Reg. > $67.03, Our Price $29.95, After Discount $23.96 > * Used Magnavon 1330-20-28 Reversible Pancake -- Reg. $149.95, Our > Price $89.95, After Discount $71.96 > > Here's how you sign up:1. Go to our web site at > http://www.planetools.com2. Complete the customer survey. In the last > note section type that you were referred by Scott Perkins > and that you are entitled to a 20% discount.3. Ignore the message you > will receive after completing the survey as the survey offer is for a 5% > discount through the month of August. You will receive a separate email > from us with a customer number. We will code your customer account so > you continue to receive the 20% discount on any purchases from our > website. The discount applies to everything -- even sale items. > You > will not be added to any abusive email list; however, we may notify you > from time-to-time as we add new product lines you may be interested > in. We want to be your premier tool supplier. If you have special needs > that are not yet listed on our site simply drop us an email and we will > do our best to find the tools you need. We are all "hands on" > experienced mechanics in building, modification, maintenance and repair > from light general aviation aircraft to commercial jets. > Thank you very much. > > The Isham's (Brad, Shaun and Shane)316-755-0713 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Date: Aug 12, 2002
> > I was the one that put spray foam in the fuselage tube. I used a product > called Tuff Stuff. I wasn't real careful about how much I sprayed in. On > the bottom it filled the tube for over a foot but only a few inches on > top. It took over a week to cure and when it did it grabbed on to the > lower elevator cable big time. I had a tough time freeing up the lower > elevator cable. Now that its done I have the fuselage tube filled except > were the cables go thru. There is now only minimal air flow through the > fuselage tube and the mice that once visited my airplane do so no > longer. I don't recommend this method. When I was done I pulled the > cables back and forth so that I could inspect the full length of the > cables for damage without pulling the swaged ends thru the foam. I > didn't find any damage but I felt better. > > Rick Neilsen > Redrive VW powered MKIII Thanks Rick, I won't use that stuff then. Know I'll need something though in these cold Michigan winters. I plan on doing a lot of winter flying back and forth to Saginaw Bay for ice fishing. We have some thick foam here in the plant that is very tough. Different than standard styrofoam. May try a block of that glued in with ferrels for the cables to ride in. ..........Snuffy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Sounds like a good idea. Never thought of using ferrels they should work well. If you could put two of these in properly spaced you might be able to eliminate that irritating cable to tube slapping that you get when taxiing. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII >>> snuffy(at)usol.com 08/12/02 11:11AM >>> > > I was the one that put spray foam in the fuselage tube. I used a product > called Tuff Stuff. I wasn't real careful about how much I sprayed in. On > the bottom it filled the tube for over a foot but only a few inches on > top. It took over a week to cure and when it did it grabbed on to the > lower elevator cable big time. I had a tough time freeing up the lower > elevator cable. Now that its done I have the fuselage tube filled except > were the cables go thru. There is now only minimal air flow through the > fuselage tube and the mice that once visited my airplane do so no > longer. I don't recommend this method. When I was done I pulled the > cables back and forth so that I could inspect the full length of the > cables for damage without pulling the swaged ends thru the foam. I > didn't find any damage but I felt better. > > Rick Neilsen > Redrive VW powered MKIII Thanks Rick, I won't use that stuff then. Know I'll need something though in these cold Michigan winters. I plan on doing a lot of winter flying back and forth to Saginaw Bay for ice fishing. We have some thick foam here in the plant that is very tough. Different than standard styrofoam. May try a block of that glued in with ferrels for the cables to ride in. ..........Snuffy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: V.W motor
Hi Rick. I am some ways from putting an engine in my project but, considering all the alternatives it seems like a VW motor in my M3E is a strong possibility. Can you tell me more about your installation. Like where did you get it, how much it cost, the engine mounts for it.... If you have any photo's that you want to share I would like to look at them. Oh yeah how much HP does it put out, and if have done a flying comparison with anyone else with the same type Kolb. I live at about 5000ft altitude and density altitude is normally from 5500ft to 8000ft sometimes higher. For me the +Hp+ is a serious consideration. thanks Ron Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Date: Aug 12, 2002
> > Sounds like a good idea. Never thought of using ferrels they should work > well. If you could put two of these in properly spaced you might be able > to eliminate that irritating cable to tube slapping that you get when > taxiing. > > Rick Neilsen > Redrive VW powered MKIII Yes that too! If you're ever up my way stop in and I'll show you a piece of the foam I'm going to use. It has a kind of rubbery texture. Very tough and light. If you compress it , it springs back. Don't know what it's called though. We get it with sensitive electronic equipment as a shipping cushion. Quite different from other foams. ..........snuffy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: V.W motor
I have a web site were I have details on my engine and a high resolution photo of my engine. Check the builders sites on the New Kolb site for the address I don't remember it right now. The mount I have is a good 5 lbs. too heavy so there are better ideas. Larry Borne and Julian Waren have other ideas and I think they may have a lighter solution. As for power there are many options for the VW engine. I think the easyest way of compensating for your high density altitude would be to select a higher compression ratio. Most VW builders for airplanes like a low 7.5 to 8 to one compression for heat and longevity reasons. It would seem that you could simply increase the compression and have a engine that thinks it is close to sea level. I'm also still sorting out my engine prop combination because of limited performance. I don't know if anyone has calculations or rules to share but I'm checking on a higher reduction ratio for my VW. As I'm trying to fly with heaver passengers I have had to decrease the pitch on my prop for higher engine RPMs (power). I'm now turning 3600-3700 with full power climb at 50-55 MPH. The problem is that at cruse I'm turning 3600 and only going 70. I think my redrive manufacturer makes a 1.91 to 1 instead of my 1.6 to one. My idea is that my prop is too big and I can fix my speed range problem by turning it at lower RPMs at a higher pitch. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII >>> kugelair(at)netscape.net 08/12/02 12:14PM >>> Hi Rick. I am some ways from putting an engine in my project but, considering all the alternatives it seems like a VW motor in my M3E is a strong possibility. Can you tell me more about your installation. Like where did you get it, how much it cost, the engine mounts for it.... If you have any photo's that you want to share I would like to look at them. Oh yeah how much HP does it put out, and if have done a flying comparison with anyone else with the same type Kolb. I live at about 5000ft altitude and density altitude is normally from 5500ft to 8000ft sometimes higher. For me the +Hp+ is a serious consideration. thanks Ron Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Date: Aug 12, 2002
Sounds a lot like the foam they use for earplugs. I wonder if that company could supply larger chunks for this sort of purpose? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: anti rust foaming? > > > > > > Sounds like a good idea. Never thought of using ferrels they should work > > well. If you could put two of these in properly spaced you might be able > > to eliminate that irritating cable to tube slapping that you get when > > taxiing. > > > > Rick Neilsen > > Redrive VW powered MKIII > > Yes that too! If you're ever up my way stop in and I'll show you a piece of > the foam I'm going to use. It has a kind of rubbery texture. Very tough and > light. If you compress it , it springs back. Don't know what it's called > though. We get it with sensitive electronic equipment as a shipping cushion. > Quite different from other foams. ..........snuffy > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Date: Aug 12, 2002
----- Original Message ----- From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: anti rust foaming? > Sounds a lot like the foam they use for earplugs. I wonder if that company > could supply larger chunks for this sort of purpose? No, it's not as soft as earplug foam. The air pockets are larger also. I have one chunk at work that is about 30" x 30" x 2' thick. You could support it between blocks and sit on it. It would bend considerably but not break. Don't know what fuel might do to it. Maybe I'll go out an pour some gas on some and see. .....snuffy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: anti rust foaming?
Date: Aug 12, 2002
> > Snuffy/Gang: > > While you are pouring gas on the foam, check it out for > caustic fumes and smoke. This seems to have killed a lot of > folks in post crash fires, in cockpit fires, etc. Some of > it was from insulation used on wiring, some on seat > cushions. > > This ought to keep you busy for a while. At least you got > off the fuel tank subject. :-) > > john h Good idea John! I'll take a piece and do it at work where they have a sniffer that detects every fume known to man and Bubba. Got a whole bunch of other neat stuff there I can pour on it too. Don't want to be recommending some product to the list and then have somebody accuse me of crossing over to the other side of the law in a rush to judgement. Must be very careful about what you say here as judgement can sometimes be harsh and completely off base.........snuffy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Special Discount Offer for Aviation Tools
I went to the site. One thing I found was they do not list their business address or a phone number, only an email address. I did finely find a address under the links menu item. I like to know the company's address and phone if I going to do business with them. jerryb > > >Scott Perkins wrote: > >Here is a family run aviation tools operation that may have >some attractive deals ? ? ? check em out and see. I just said >I would be glad to forward info if they had some good deals. > >Basically, go to http://www.planetools.com2 and complete the >customer survey. >In the last note section type that you were referred by Scott Perkins >and that you are entitled to a 20% discount. >... makes it look like I'm getting kickback ... I swear I'm not : ) >their email address is mailto:planetools(at)cox.net > >Here is the quote from message sent to me: > > > We have high-quality industrial tools available at 20% discount for your > > organization. We have made it easy for you to receive your discount on > > any purchases. Instructions are at the end of this letter. > > > > Our inventory includes new, reconditioned and excellent used aircraft > > tools including: > > > > * Rivet Guns & Special Rivet Sets for most aircraft rivets > > * Drills, Bits, Reamers and Taps > > * Magnavon Countersink Cages and Countersink Bits > > * Nut Runners and Wedgelock Guns > > * Bucking Bars > > * Quick Change 1/4-28 Chucks and Bits > > * Riveters Tape > > * Torque Wrenches > > * Weldon Deburr Bits > > * 1/4-28 Angle Drills > > * Hi Loc Pliers > > > > Our new rivet guns are available in special configurations and may be > > uniquely identified to you. Reconditioned tools are as good as new. Used > > tools are in excellent condition and will perform as good as new. You > > will realize a significant savings when purchasing our high quality > > industrial tools. > > > > We are adding new items daily. Our upcoming new hand tool lines include > > Proto, Armstrong and other high quality aviation tools. > > > > Here are a few examples: > > > > * Isham's New Lifetime Warranty Rivet Gun, Your choice of "Stubby", > > 200A, 300A or 400A -- Reg. $299.95, Our Price $224.95, After > > Discount $179.96 > > * New 3X Taylor Rivet Gun -- Reg. $239.95, Our Price $184.95, After > > Discount $147.96 > > * New T88881B Palm Air Drill -- Reg. $145.95, Our Price $119.95, > > After Discount $95.96 > > * New Rivnut Puller -- Our Price $99.95, After Discount $79.96 > > * Used Countersink in New Condition -- Magnavon #2164 -- Reg. > > $67.03, Our Price $29.95, After Discount $23.96 > > * Used Magnavon 1330-20-28 Reversible Pancake -- Reg. $149.95, Our > > Price $89.95, After Discount $71.96 > > > > Here's how you sign up:1. Go to our web site at > > http://www.planetools.com2. Complete the customer survey. In the last > > note section type that you were referred by Scott Perkins > > and that you are entitled to a 20% discount.3. Ignore the message you > > will receive after completing the survey as the survey offer is for a 5% > > discount through the month of August. You will receive a separate email > > from us with a customer number. We will code your customer account so > > you continue to receive the 20% discount on any purchases from our > > website. The discount applies to everything -- even sale items. > > You > > will not be added to any abusive email list; however, we may notify you > > from time-to-time as we add new product lines you may be interested > > in. We want to be your premier tool supplier. If you have special needs > > that are not yet listed on our site simply drop us an email and we will > > do our best to find the tools you need. We are all "hands on" > > experienced mechanics in building, modification, maintenance and repair > > from light general aviation aircraft to commercial jets. > > Thank you very much. > > > > The Isham's (Brad, Shaun and Shane)316-755-0713 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Drilling out rivets.
Date: Aug 12, 2002
I have had occasions to drill our SS rivets. I first knock out the mandrel using a small punch. To keep the rivet from spinning when I drill it, I cut a V notch in an old hack saw blade and wedge it under the rive head to drill it out. Go to a good machine shop supply and get some cobalt drill bits and they will cut the SS rivets like butter. Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: airflow
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: Aug 13, 2002
08/13/2002 07:17:16 AM <<< Did anybody ever come up with a good solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in winter, out of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube. ..... :o)>>> Real simple, and you already have everything you need to do it. Poly fabric, cut and ploytacked onto the front end of the tube, burn holes for th cables before or after installing the fabric. Stops wind, will not bind up controls. Tears away if any problems with cables. Worked for me. Jim Gerken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: airflow
Date: Aug 13, 2002
> > > <<< Did anybody ever come up with a good > solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in > winter, out > of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube. > ..... > :o)>>> > > Real simple, and you already have everything you need to do it. Poly > fabric, cut and ploytacked onto the front end of the tube, burn holes for > th cables before or after installing the fabric. Stops wind, will not bind > up controls. Tears away if any problems with cables. Worked for me. > > > Jim Gerken Thanks Jim, Good idea! Like it!..........snuffy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
Date: Aug 13, 2002
> > I'm also still sorting out my engine prop combination because of >limited performance. I don't know if anyone has calculations or rules to >share but I'm checking on a higher reduction ratio for my VW. As I'm >trying to fly with heaver passengers I have had to decrease the pitch on >my prop for higher engine RPMs (power). I'm now turning 3600-3700 with >full power climb at 50-55 MPH. The problem is that at cruse I'm turning >3600 and only going 70. I think my redrive manufacturer makes a 1.91 to >1 instead of my 1.6 to one. My idea is that my prop is too big and I can >fix my speed range problem by turning it at lower RPMs at a higher >pitch. > >Rick Neilsen >Redrive VW powered MKIII > > Hey Rick and Gang, A different gear ratio is not going to help, you have to decide to pitch for climb or cruise performance. With a fourstroke engine the difference in cruise speed is a considerable. A twostroke has a very narrow torque curve and can't take advantage of an inflight adjustable prop. I have ordered an Ivo inflight high pitch prop to try on my BMW. Will let you know how it works. Hans van Alphen Mark III Xtra BMW powered 66 hours. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
> A different gear ratio is not going to help, you have to decide to pitch for > climb or cruise performance. > Hans van Alphen Hans/Gents: Is the above peculiar to VW's and BMW's? Or are you saying all four stroke engines have two choices, climb or cruise? Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 13, 2002
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
Prop Wise Guys, What are your thoughts about a constant speed prop on a two stroke - the goods and bads? IVO has this option now. Anyone have any actual experiance with these or know anyone who has tried one? Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
Date: Aug 13, 2002
Steve, I have a MarkIII with an IVO elcectric adjustable prop. It really does no good at the slow speeds the Kolb flies. Leaving the throttle all the way up and reducing RPM by increasing prop pitch in a high drag machine at these speeds just doesn't improve economy or speed. 2 cycle engines run much richer at full throttle than mid range so you will use dramatically more fuel in this configuration. It is best, in my opinion, to set the prop for best RPM at takeoff and throttle back for the cruise you want. Bob N52B N331B N511RK N680JM ----- Original Message ----- From: <SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop > > Prop Wise Guys, > > What are your thoughts about a constant speed prop on a two stroke - the > goods and bads? IVO has this option now. Anyone have any actual experiance > with these or know anyone who has tried one? > > Steve > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
> I have a MarkIII with an IVO elcectric adjustable prop. It really does no > good at the slow speeds the Kolb flies. he cruise you want. > Bob Bob/Gents: One step further: Adjust prop pitch for optimum climb and cruise. WOT, straight and level flight, rpm just touches the red line or a tab above. Does not matter what static rpm is, other than a reference/check point on take off to insure your engine is performing as it should, prior to committing to flight. With my 70", 3 blade, fast taper, Warp Drive Prop, static rpm before brake release is 5,300-5,400 rpm. As soon as brakes are released and she starts rolling, rpm drops aprx 100 rpm. That rpm is what it will climb with at 60-70 mph WOT, from 1,200 to 2,000 fpm, depending on how she is loaded and what the OAT is. WOT, straight and level, 5,500 rpm. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
Date: Aug 13, 2002
John, Still like what I said: It is best, in my opinion, to set the prop for best RPM at takeoff and throttle back for the cruise you want. This gives you the best climb performance! But I will defend to the death your right to state it differently! Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop > > > > I have a MarkIII with an IVO elcectric adjustable prop. It really does no > > good at the slow speeds the Kolb flies. he cruise you want. > > Bob > > Bob/Gents: > > One step further: Adjust prop pitch for optimum climb and > cruise. WOT, straight and level flight, rpm just touches > the red line or a tab above. > > Does not matter what static rpm is, other than a > reference/check point on take off to insure your engine is > performing as it should, prior to committing to flight. > > With my 70", 3 blade, fast taper, Warp Drive Prop, static > rpm before brake release is 5,300-5,400 rpm. As soon as > brakes are released and she starts rolling, rpm drops aprx > 100 rpm. That rpm is what it will climb with at 60-70 mph > WOT, from 1,200 to 2,000 fpm, depending on how she is loaded > and what the OAT is. WOT, straight and level, 5,500 rpm. > > Take care, > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
> Still like what I said: > It is best, in my opinion, to set the prop for > best RPM at takeoff and throttle back for the cruise you want. > This gives you the best climb performance! > Bob Bob/Gang: Roger, "best climb performance". My method produces "best climb/cruise performance". This is the best method to "tune" the prop to produce a combination of results. I agree that a have to give up a tad of climb and a tad of cruise to get it, but for cross country, local flying, it gives me what I want. Old Kolb Aircraft used to pitch their aircraft on the light side, best climb, when they were headed for Lakeland and Oshkosh. It produced results. However, on a cross country, short or long, it was like flying around in second gear. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: climb/cruise
Date: Aug 13, 2002
In my locale I would prefer a cruise setup as it's near sea level, mostly flat, most anyplace I would take off from would have plenty of room. Lots more cold than hot weather. So a Kolb would have plenty of take off climb authority even with a cruise pitch. So for me reduced fuel consumption and higher speed are more important. Was thinking of mounting one of those little jet engines in the fuselage tube for a booster if I should need the extra take off performance like when I leave the bay with a load of 10 pound Walleyes, and for out running white outs in the Michigan winters. Keep the rats nests out of the tube also. Come to think of it I could probably keep the runway clear in winter too. Even use it to blow the leaves over into the neighbors yard. Yuck yuck......Snuffy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 13, 2002
Subject: Re: tubes
In a message dated 8/11/02 12:32:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time, biglar(at)gogittum.com writes: << took lots of pics of the procedure, and several knowledgable people complimented me on the job. Anyhow..........even tho' I completely encapsulated everything with marine plywood & epoxy, somehow, somewhere, water got in, and that "waterproof" foam soaked up a couple hundred pounds of salt water. Opened it up, and it WOULD NOT dry out. Never did figure out a good answer to that one. Far as I know, it's still going strong. Again, Been There Lar. >> There's 2 kinds of foam....open cell and closed cell.....it probably makes a big difference which type it is for absorption. George Randolph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 13, 2002
Subject: Re:
In a message dated 8/11/02 1:04:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ronoy(at)shentel.net writes: << Conclusion: I doubt that bleach will seriously corrode our dainty vehicles. Bob N. >> I remember the thread, .... thank you Bob, for your inquiring mind...I now have a new fact to put in mine. George Randolph...the ol glider pilot....and firetar driver from Akron ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 12, 2002
Subject: Re: Welding Steel Tube with Foam in It
From: "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com>
Yes, the fumes can be nasty. I don't know what type of foam you have, but some plastics will even give you cyanide when heated too much or burned. Will the foam add carbon to your weld, making it brittle? (same as using an oxidizing flame) Larry the MicroMong guy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George" <geomurphy(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: relocating gas tank
Date: Aug 13, 2002
I have an older Firestar I that has the 5 gal. gas tank secured to part of the cage framework that is located directly behind my head. I want to cut the steel tube that it is resting on and locate the tank lower into the cage area, possibly sitting directly on the boom tube. Has anyone ever removed this tube and relocated the gas tank lower? I do not see a structural need for this tube and am afraid to remove it without some expert advice from the Kolb group. Has anyone been able to fit a single 10 gallon tank back there? Puzzled possum n Alabama ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: NASA cockpit wx pilot survey
Help, Saw a blurb in either AvWeb or aero-news abt an interactive pilot survey for input on cockpit wx displays. Can't find it by ckg back issues. Yes, I know this isn't UL, but just maybe someone saw it and wrote down the URL thanks, Bob N. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix?
I'm aware of using the Seafoam treatment in the cylinders at periodic intervals, but has anybody tried mixing it in with the premix fuel. Is there any established positive results. (Note, if your not aware of the Seafoam Treatment, clink on the search link of the trailer of this message and do a search on the Kolb list for the Seafoam Treatment.) In the past some one posted about some additive that was being used by one of the states department of natural resources I believe it was on there 2-stroke boat engines. Anyone know what it was or where it was posted. I've tried searches but can't seem to find the correct key words to locate it. It may have been on another list. jerryb ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
For several years I have kept my 2 blade 66" Ivoprop set to where my 532 will just nudge 6400 rpm at full throttle in level flight. Because of the heat wave around here lately, I repitched it to pick up about 300 rpm in climb. It does climb a bit better, and since I have to clear a 300' high power line about 900' off the end of the runway, I will leave it that way for until the weather changes. But then it goes back like it was. Less vibration, less noise, less fuel used, lower rpm at cruise, & more top speed is worth more to me than a 10% improvement in climb rate. But to each his own. Pitch it like you like it, and you'll still enjoy it anyway. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >Steve, >I have a MarkIII with an IVO elcectric adjustable prop. It really does no >good at the slow speeds the Kolb flies. Leaving the throttle all the way up >and reducing RPM by increasing prop pitch in a high drag machine at these >speeds just doesn't improve economy or speed. 2 cycle engines run much >richer at full throttle than mid range so you will use dramatically more >fuel in this configuration. It is best, in my opinion, to set the prop for >best RPM at takeoff and throttle back for the cruise you want. >Bob >N52B >N331B >N511RK >N680JM >----- Original Message ----- >From: <SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com> >To: >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop > > >> >> Prop Wise Guys, >> >> What are your thoughts about a constant speed prop on a two stroke - the >> goods and bads? IVO has this option now. Anyone have any actual >experiance >> with these or know anyone who has tried one? >> >> Steve >> > --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 13, 2002
Subject: Re: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix?
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
> > I'm aware of using the Seafoam treatment in the cylinders at periodic > intervals, but has anybody tried mixing it in with the premix > fuel. Is there any established positive results. > jerryb Jerry, I don't use it in the tank because I'm not sure what it will do to it. There is a local pilot flying a Skystar Kitfox with a 582 that uses it in his premix. I didn't ask him about the fuel tank that he used. Ralph B. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: LiteSpeed
I have been trying to call LiteSpeed for a few days but can only get an answering machine. Does anyone know what the status is with them? Ron Payne ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: LiteSpeed
Ron or Mary wrote: > > I have been trying to call LiteSpeed for a few days but can only get an > answering machine. Does anyone know what the status is with them? Ron, I talked to Lite Speed a couple of times while building my wings in late May and business dropped off to the point that Wayne was let go and "Pig" (never did catch his real name) was the only one there on a part time basis. I Only talked to Pig- Brian was never around. While I was at Lite Speed for a visit in late April, Brian mentioned that things were getting lean. It's not unlikely that he has shut Lite Speed down or is off for a while 'till business picks up. But, If you don't answer your phone, how can you get new business? I suggest you call Dany Mullins at TNK. He and Brian are good friends and Danny might kow of Brian's status. I hope he surfaces soon. He is a terrific source of Kolb building expertise. ********************* Ken W. Korenek ken-foi(at)attbi.com Kolb FireStar II, "My Mistress" Rotax 503, Oil Injected 3 Blade Powerfin http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot/TX_files/image003.jpg Six Chuter SR7-XL "Elmo" Powered Parachute Rotax 582, Oil Injected 3 Blade PowerFin http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot/TX_files/image005.jpg 4906 Oak Springs Drive Arlington, Texas 76016 817-572-6832 voice 817-572-6842 fax 817-657-6500 cell 817-483-8054 home ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Woody Weaver" <mts0140(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix?
Date: Aug 14, 2002
A guy in our club used "Carbon Guard" or something like that. He got it from the park service where he worked. He used Exxon two stroke oil, again because "it was there". He put 330 hours (had hour meter) on a CDI 447. I ended up with the engine. I pulled the heads and its amazingly clean. Heads are shiny aluminum, little or no carbon. Inside the engine looks like it has maybe 10 hours on it. Tops of the pistons have some areas with light carbon and some areas still shiny. He said he poured "two or three ounces" in every tank of fuel. Didn't measure, just eyeballed it. I looked for Carbon Guard. No luck. Similar products are discussed at boat sites. I did find a product that looks similar and is called ValvTect Carbon Free. The hype on the bottle says: Marine Fuel Additive Prevents ring sticking Prevents carbon deposits. Says add 1 ounce to 5 gallons of gas. I was thinking I might use it in my chain saw. For my MX with 277, I'm using synthetic snowmobile oil. Woody (the other one) ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> Subject: Kolb-List: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix? > > I'm aware of using the Seafoam treatment in the cylinders at periodic > intervals, but has anybody tried mixing it in with the premix fuel. Is > there any established positive results. > > (Note, if your not aware of the Seafoam Treatment, clink on the search link > of the trailer of this message and do a search on the Kolb list for the > Seafoam Treatment.) > > In the past some one posted about some additive that was being used by one > of the states department of natural resources I believe it was on there > 2-stroke boat engines. Anyone know what it was or where it was > posted. I've tried searches but can't seem to find the correct key words > to locate it. It may have been on another list. > jerryb > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix?
Carbon Guard is an OMC product. You should be able to get it from any Evinrude out board motor dealer. Yahama has a product that is called "Ring Free". I have used this in my outboard for 12 years and the motor still runs as it did when it was new. Both these products may be the same. They both are suppose to keep the carbon build up to a minimum. I bought a gallon of the ring free when I bought to motor and have just now run out. $75.00 for 12 years and 400 hours. Ron Payne -------Original Message------- From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Date: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 07:20:23 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix? A guy in our club used "Carbon Guard" or something like that. He got it from the park service where he worked. He used Exxon two stroke oil, again because "it was there". He put 330 hours (had hour meter) on a CDI 447. I ended up with the engine. I pulled the heads and its amazingly clean. Heads are shiny aluminum, > _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable prop
Date: Aug 14, 2002
>> A different gear ratio is not going to help, you have to decide to pitch for >> optimum climb or cruise performance. > >> Hans van Alphen > >Hans/Gents: > >Is the above peculiar to VW's and BMW's? Or are you saying >all four stroke engines have two choices, climb or cruise? > >Take care, > >john h > John and All, What I am trying to say is that with a fixed pitched propeller, you have the choice to set it to optimum climb or to optimum cruise or compromise somewhere in between the two. It is a substantial compromise with a four stroke engine that has a wide torque curve. For example on my fourstroke BMW, I repitched my 3 blade 68" Powerfin just a bit flatter, with the following results, before : TO rpm 5900, Climb=700fpm, Cruise @ 5500rpm=70 mph, Cruise 4750rpm= 52mph. after : TO rpm 5500, Climb=500fpm, Cruise @ 5500rpm=82 mph, Cruise 4750rpm= 65mph. Climb reduced by 200 fpm but cruise increased by 12 mph. and this is only a fraction of the range possible with an inflight prop. I would like to use the engine power to the max in climb and for when I have a heavy passenger and be able to enjoy fast cruise (85 mph) to go cross country or just use low rpm's to enjoy the countryside or beach. Remember this is only for four stroke engines, not two strokes, and John I am not sure but think it would benefit your engine as well, it's like adding another gear. My BMW is not as powerful as the 912 and therefore I need all the help I can get. Will keep you updated on further testing with the inflight prop. Hans van Alphen Mark III Xtra BMW powered 66 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable prop
> My BMW is not as powerful as the 912 and therefore I need all the help I can > get. > Will keep you updated on further testing with the inflight prop. > > Hans van Alphen Hans/Gents: I understand what you are saying. Inflight adjustable prop would benefit my 912S. I would be able to see 100 hp on takeoff at 5,800 rpm for 5 minutes maximum. Then repitch for 5,500 rpm WOT. No matter what I do, prop-wise, the Mark III is going to be a 80-85 mph cruise airplane with max of about 95 mph. Anything over 85 mph, unless the air is extremely calm, is uncomfortable. Trying to increase cruise and top end on the Mark III is a waste of HP. I get about the same cruise with the 582, as the 912, and the 912S. The greatest difference is climb performance. The best engine on my airplane for all around performance and economy was the 912. Cruised 80 mph at 5,000 rpm burning 4.0 gph. The 912S at 5,200 rpm, cruises 88 mph and burns 5.0 gph. The 582 turning 5,800 rpm cruised 80 mph and burned 5.5 gph (gas and oil). Top end for all three engines on my airplane are all about the same, 95 mph. Aerodynamically the Mark III runs into a brick wall after 85 mph. My own opinion and personal experience. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
Subject: Inflight Adjustable Prop
From: William George <Wgeorge(at)macrevolution.com>
Y'all listen to brother John on this one and save yourselves a world of extra work and wasted time. Ask me how I know... Bill George Kolb Mk-3/Verner1400SVS/Powerfin 68" "F" > From: Kolb-List Digest Server <kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com> > Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 23:50:00 -0700 > To: Kolb-List Digest List > Subject: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 08/13/02 > > From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop > > > >> I have a MarkIII with an IVO elcectric adjustable prop. It really does no >> good at the slow speeds the Kolb flies. he cruise you want. >> Bob > > Bob/Gents: > > One step further: Adjust prop pitch for optimum climb and > cruise. WOT, straight and level flight, rpm just touches > the red line or a tab above. > > Does not matter what static rpm is, other than a > reference/check point on take off to insure your engine is > performing as it should, prior to committing to flight. > > With my 70", 3 blade, fast taper, Warp Drive Prop, static > rpm before brake release is 5,300-5,400 rpm. As soon as > brakes are released and she starts rolling, rpm drops aprx > 100 rpm. That rpm is what it will climb with at 60-70 mph > WOT, from 1,200 to 2,000 fpm, depending on how she is loaded > and what the OAT is. WOT, straight and level, 5,500 rpm. > > Take care, > > john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: pondering muffler system attachment
From: Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com
Date: Aug 14, 2002
08/14/2002 12:30:32 PM Greetings. Got my replacement exhaust pipe for the #3 cylinder on the 912S the other day (From Titan; fast response and no charge). The first one broke in flight at the first weld, by the EGT sender. A local certified welding inspector looked at the broken pipe and found definite room for improvement in the weld quality on both the old broken pipe and the new replacement, so I am having him make another pass on the welds on the replacement pipe. While not an aviation expert, he suggested an additional attachment point between the engine and the exhaust system. Looking over the layout, the logical place for this attachment point is on the gearbox, which conveniently has rather large threaded (and unused) holes on both sides, under the muffler. I ran this concept by Kerry at Lockwood, and he indicated others have done this as well, and knew of no associated problems. He did suggest making the attachment point flexible rather than rigid, with some sort of rubber mounting system. After thinking that over, Im not sure that a flexible attachment really makes sense. It seems to me that what Im really trying to do is PREVENT movement of the exhaust system (and more specifically, movement at the end of the exhaust pipes and muffler. By my reasoning, having the exhaust system rigidly attached to the engine at both the cylinder heads and at the muffler should make the engine and muffler move as one, whereas a flexible attachment point at the muffler (or none at all), could allow a bit of a whipping action that could fatigue the metal over time. What does the collective wisdom of The List say? I would like to hear from those that agree as well as disagree! I should add that both Titan and Kerry at Lockwood indicated that they are not aware of other occurrences of the exhaust pipes breaking (we Listers do - the Adriel Halsey case, apparently due to a bad vibration problem), and were surprised that it happened. l am tempted to just chalk the whole thing up to a bad weld and replace the pipe with no other changes, but my confidence in the system has taken a blow, and I think a stronger system would help mend that. Regards, Erich Weaver erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re:keep critters out./
<<< Did anybody ever come up with a good solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in winter, out>>> when i first built i tried to put fabric on the front of the tube after the cables were in.... after hearing about the problems with critters i cut a 8 inch circle of fabric and heat formed it around a 6 inch piece of wood.... then glued it into the back end of the tube about 6 inches in from the end.... i cut small slits for the cables.... wont be able to tell how it works till winter.... boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
Subject: Ultraold Ultrastar's
Date: Aug 14, 2002
I'm still flying the Cuyuna powered Ultrastar with the UL202 and the 2SI 2.5 to 1 belt drive and have about 35 hours on it since I changed to the 3 blade 50 inch diameter Warp drive. No problems at all ! ! Yet! The performance seems better with this combination than with the 2.04 to 1Nova gearbox and 2 blade Warp Drive. I thought a 2 blade prop was generally more efficient than a three ? ? I am going to Sea Foam it soon because I am up to 100 hours now since I began flying it and it had time on it since my purchase. I need the advice of you "old " Ultrastar pilots in regards to "heavy" ailerons. I am about to install VG's that will help this problem but am also considering reinstalling the inboard aileron surfaces that were removed previous to me. What was the rational for this ? It seems like I may be able to increase lift, lower the stall and gain some aileron authority at the same time. I am cruising at 70 with a Firestar nose cone and modified windshield and am concerned with too much speed....drop the nose and it's 85+ real quick in an old 1986 airframe. So by putting the missing aileron surface back on a loss of cruise may be ok. Does anyone have a good way to install a drooped ailereon system on an Ultrastar? Ed ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Ballenger" <ulpilot(at)cavtel.net>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable prop
Date: Aug 14, 2002
John It is data like this, that makes this list so invaluable. I have been considering the MK III engine options and your personal experience information makes my decisions very easy. Thanks Jim Ballenger FS KXP 447 Virginia Beach, VA ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable prop > > > > My BMW is not as powerful as the 912 and therefore I need all the help I can > > get. > > Will keep you updated on further testing with the inflight prop. > > > > Hans van Alphen > > Hans/Gents: > > I understand what you are saying. > > Inflight adjustable prop would benefit my 912S. I would be > able to see 100 hp on takeoff at 5,800 rpm for 5 minutes > maximum. Then repitch for 5,500 rpm WOT. > > No matter what I do, prop-wise, the Mark III is going to be > a 80-85 mph cruise airplane with max of about 95 mph. > Anything over 85 mph, unless the air is extremely calm, is > uncomfortable. Trying to increase cruise and top end on the > Mark III is a waste of HP. I get about the same cruise with > the 582, as the 912, and the 912S. The greatest difference > is climb performance. > > The best engine on my airplane for all around performance > and economy was the 912. Cruised 80 mph at 5,000 rpm > burning 4.0 gph. The 912S at 5,200 rpm, cruises 88 mph and > burns 5.0 gph. The 582 turning 5,800 rpm cruised 80 mph and > burned 5.5 gph (gas and oil). Top end for all three engines > on my airplane are all about the same, 95 mph. > > Aerodynamically the Mark III runs into a brick wall after 85 > mph. My own opinion and personal experience. > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: question
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: Aug 14, 2002
08/14/2002 02:46:35 PM I seem to remember a story about a guy who burned up a 582 in something like 20 hours from adding ATF to the fuel. Am I remembering that old story correctly? Anybody remember more details? Seems like we even knew the guy. Jim Gerken ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable prop
> I have been > considering the MK III engine options and your personal experience > information makes my decisions very easy. > > Jim Ballenger Jim/Gang: Now that I told you that, I will tell you this. Even though I think the 912 (80HP) is the best all around engine for performance and economy, I still prefer the 912S as the best engine for me and my airplane. I am not all that concerned about economy, except I can fly further between fuel stops with an engine that burns 4 vs one that burns 5 gph. The 912S gives my airplane, which is heavy, the kind of performance I thought I would get when I changed over from the 582 to the 912. I like the feeling of a little extra power, although there are times I get in situations that require every once of power the 912S makes (95 hp at 5,500 rpm) and then some. However, I think I have gotten to the top of the scale at this point and any more power would be an overkill. There comes a point in the pusher with high thrust line that over power can creat undesirable situations during take off and climb. The Ultrastar with low pusher thrust line pushed the nose up and the high thrust line pushes the nose down. More thrust more the nose is pushed down. More the nose is pushed down, the more nose up trim required to keep the controls comfortable. john h PS: Shot some Polyspray this morning on the lower vert stab. Tomorrow a little sanding and some more Polyspray. Probably a couple coats of white Polytone. Friday a little yellow Aerothane and Saturday trim with red Aerothane. Maybe Sunday we will get the tail back on Miss P'fer, and Monday fly. I am ready for my aviation therapy. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable prop
Date: Aug 14, 2002
John, If I get what your saying, cruise is tit for tat between the 80/100hp engines (due to airframe not designed to go fast...)then it is all about climb. What were the numbers comparing between the 2? Are you talking about a couple of hundred feet per minute difference? Or something more??? Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)ldl.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable prop > I have been > considering the MK III engine options and your personal experience > information makes my decisions very easy. > > Jim Ballenger Jim/Gang: Now that I told you that, I will tell you this. Even though I think the 912 (80HP) is the best all around engine for performance and economy, I still prefer the 912S as the best engine for me and my airplane. I am not all that concerned about economy, except I can fly further between fuel stops with an engine that burns 4 vs one that burns 5 gph. The 912S gives my airplane, which is heavy, the kind of performance I thought I would get when I changed over from the 582 to the 912. I like the feeling of a little extra power, although there are times I get in situations that require every once of power the 912S makes (95 hp at 5,500 rpm) and then some. However, I think I have gotten to the top of the scale at this point and any more power would be an overkill. There comes a point in the pusher with high thrust line that over power can creat undesirable situations during take off and climb. The Ultrastar with low pusher thrust line pushed the nose up and the high thrust line pushes the nose down. More thrust more the nose is pushed down. More the nose is pushed down, the more nose up trim required to keep the controls comfortable. john h PS: Shot some Polyspray this morning on the lower vert stab. Tomorrow a little sanding and some more Polyspray. Probably a couple coats of white Polytone. Friday a little yellow Aerothane and Saturday trim with red Aerothane. Maybe Sunday we will get the tail back on Miss P'fer, and Monday fly. I am ready for my aviation therapy. = = = = ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable prop
> If I get what your saying, cruise is tit for tat between the 80/100hp > engines (due to airframe not designed to go fast...)then it is all about > climb. > Jeremy Casey Jeremy/Gents: Right. We ain't gonna go real fast in a slow airplane no matter how much power we stick on it. But speed is not what I am after anyhow, although it would be nice to cruise 100 mph, or 120 mph. If I get an airplane that will fly fast I have to give up the slow part. The slow, short field, terrific climb capability of my Mark III, the ability to load it down until it pops, then go fly away with that load, is what I like. I am not complaining about my 85 mph cruise either. I can make a lot of miles in a day at that speed. Remember, I don't have to follow the roads and can cut the corners. Also don't have to contend with all those other drivers, road construction, detours, and 5 o'clock traffic jams. Forgot to mention in previous posts the one big difference in the 912 and 912S. The 912S is not a hopped up 912 tuned to produce 20 more hp. It was the culmination, as of January 2000, of 7,000 912's built over an 11 year period. What ROTAX learned from user testing with those engines over that time period resulted in a totally new engine, the 912S. If you take a look at the parts manual for the 912/914 series engines, you will discover that most major parts of the 912/914 are the same. Not so for the 912S. It has much heavier engine cases, crank shaft, bearings, connecting rods, pistons, heads, intake manifolds, etc. 912S components are not the same as 912. It is by far the best engine Rotax produces. That equates to me to be the most reliable engine. After spending four days in Eric Tucker's 912 School, I am convinced the 912S is as good engine and better than anything we produce in the US, Lycoming/Continental. It is certified in Europe. Only difference between 912SUL and 912S JAR Certified is the parts are SN'd and tracked/logged on each engine. They may be run in for 5 hours (not for sure) over the UL 912S that is run 30 min or an hour. Now all I have to do is my part as the operator/maintainer to keep it running an enjoy some safe reliable flying. Climb is improved from 25% to 50% from 912 to 912S on my airplane. For me, this alone is enough to justify the extra $1,000 for the 912S. If I fly 1,000 hours, the fuel, oil, and spark plug savings alone will make up the diffence in purchase price of the 912 and the 582. The 912 will be cheaper to own and operate than the 582 in the long run. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: Muffler
I agree with your reasoning about the attachement. I cannot see much benafit in terms of stress reliefe by having a flexible bracket to an inflexible unit. I don't know what it looks like so let me hedge my opinion as "subject to change upon viewing a photo". :-) Ron ========================== whereas a flexible attachment point at the muffler (or none at all), could allow a bit of a whipping action that could fatigue the metal over time. What does the collective wisdom of The List say? I would like to hear from those that agree as well as disagree! ============================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Muffler
> I cannot see much benafit in terms of stress reliefe by having a flexible bracket to an inflexible unit. I don't know what it looks like so let me hedge my opinion as "subject to change upon viewing a photo". :-) > > Ron Ron/Gents: Here's your pic you requested: http://hawk36.home.mindspring.com/Aircraft/Img24.jpg That's a Titan 912S exhaust system. Now has 370 hours on it without any problems. Recommend ya'll go to Titan to see if they have a record of any problems with system coming apart. Several of us on the Kolb List are running them. It is the best system I have used for the 912/912S, and I have been through a bunch of them before I found Titans. I like it. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Tailwheel dolly
Date: Aug 14, 2002
My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end and it's a real chore to move her by hand. Does anyone here know of a good tow bar or dolly that works well with the Kolb line? Either one that can be purchased or one that a Hey-I-just-fly-these-things-I-don't-build-them kind of guy could cobble up? Many thanks for your inputs! -Ken P.S. Thanks to everyone who responded so kindly to my request for info about a cross-threaded plug hole on a 503. This group is fabulous! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2001
Subject: Twinstar for sale...Maybe
From: Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net>
Gang... I'm toying with the idea of selling the Twinstar. It's in the project stage with everything new to put it together already bought. Since starting the project, I've flown a few different Kolbs and I'm not happy with the way the handle. I'm not looking to start a debate here. Having flown a lot of different planes over the last 25 years, that's my opinion. I've since picked up a Hipps Reliant that I'm now flying. The Twinstar was flying when I bought it. Original plans were to recover and repower. I don't know what this Twinstar is worth. It is stripped to the bare airframe. All instruments are there. I have a new 503, B box and Powerfin 2 blade prop, covering kit including paint from Aircraft Tech Support, new VLS BRS 750. Selling price would depend on how much of it you want. I can use just about everything except the airframe for other projects. Is there any interest here? If I don't sell it, I'll probably scrap the airframe and use the parts for other projects. Ross ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Refueling
> On my MII, and due in part to the fact that I'm > short, with short arms, reaching the gas tanks is a real pain anyway. > > -Ken Ken/Gang: I have a pickup truck load of Wal*Mart 5 gal plastic gas cans made by Rubber Maid or somebody. I use a piece of 1" vinyl tubing 6 feet long stuck on the pouring spout of the gas can. The hose is long enough I can stick it in the fuel filler on the top of the center section with the other end attached to the spout on the can on the ground. Lift it up higher than the filler and I am refueling like the gas man on a NASCAR team. Wish I knew how many gallons of fuel have gone through those cans over the last 18 years. I try to remember to throw the hose in the airplane when I go cross countrying. That way, I got an easy way to get auto fuel in my tank should I come across a friendly enthusiast with gas. Almost impossible and not at all inviting to try to refuel my airplane out of a 5 gal can without my hose extension. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: pondering muffler system attachment
Enrich, I ran this concept by Kerry at Lockwood, and he indicated others have done this as well, and knew of no associated problems. He did suggest making the attachment point flexible rather than rigid, with some sort of rubber mounting system. After thinking that over, Im not sure that a flexible attachment really makes sense. It seems to me that what Im really trying to do is PREVENT movement of the exhaust system (and more specifically, movement at the end of the exhaust pipes and muffler. By my reasoning, having the exhaust system rigidly attached to the engine at both the cylinder heads and at the muffler should make the engine and muffler move as one, whereas a flexible attachment point at the muffler (or none at all), could allow a bit of a whipping action that could fatigue the metal over time. If others have not been having trouble, I would chalk it up to just a bad weld. One must be careful about hard mounting exhaust pipes. If one calculates the change in length of a 20 inch pipe whose temperature is increased 1400 degrees F, a stainless steel pipe will lengthen over a quarter of an inch, and plane carbon pipe will lengthen 3/16 of an inch. This is why the pipes are curved or folded to give the pipe some chance to move in between the end attachments. If you add a third constrain or rigid attachment to prevent the additional bowing, you will put all kinds of additional stresses on the head pipe mount. This is the problem I have run into in trying to get the Victor 1 mounted on my FireFly. Simonini took their straight muffler and reworked it into a folded horse shoe shape so that it could be mounted over the top of the pusher engine. They used a single ball and socket to attach the folded pipe to the engine. For three months, I tried everything I could to keep the single ball and socket connection sealed at higher rpms. I finally got it up to 5500 rpm before the seal would break down. I tightened things a little more and I cracked or broke all the muffler mounts to the engine. I have reworked the muffler mounting system to allow greater movement and I have added a second ball and socket to compensate for the pipe expansion. I took the engine to the airport today, and hopefully, tomorrow I will find out if the pipe will stay sealed on up to 6000 rpm. If you would like to see what a fellow will go through to keep a muffler on an engine, you can see it at: http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly79.html Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 14, 2002
Subject: Re: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix?
In a message dated 8/13/02 11:11:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ulflyer(at)airmail.net writes: > In the past some one posted about some additive that was being used by one > of the states department of natural resources I believe it was on there > 2-stroke boat engines. Anyone know what it was or where it was > posted. I've tried searches but can't seem to find the correct key words > to locate it. It may have been on another list. > jerryb > > > I have been using "Z-Max" in my pre-mix for about the last 200 hours. I put 12 ounces in a 6 gallon tank every 25 hours. I don't know if it's done any good 'cause I haven't done anything to the engine in 320 hours. I'll let you know when I look at the pistons next year. Z-max should be available at you auto parts store. Shack FS II SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: Muffler
Well after splashing water into my eyes. They were hurting from the paint job. :-) I agree, a rigid bracket should be installed. It seems that the muffler is held by the pipes only, and above the motor. Certainly there is enough vibration induced x moment distance to crack a thin wall tube. I would use .080 sheet bracket placed East West if possible. Ron ================================ Here's your pic you requested: ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel dolly
Date: Aug 14, 2002
Ken, Search the archives because I know someone posted an easy to make dolly but I can't remember who it was. hope this helps Geoff Thistlethwaite ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> Subject: Kolb-List: Tailwheel dolly > > My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end and it's a real > chore to move her by hand. Does anyone here know of a good tow bar or dolly > that works well with the Kolb line? Either one that can be purchased or one > that a Hey-I-just-fly-these-things-I-don't-build-them kind of guy could > cobble up? > > Many thanks for your inputs! > > -Ken > > P.S. Thanks to everyone who responded so kindly to my request for info about > a cross-threaded plug hole on a 503. This group is fabulous! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: kugelair(at)netscape.net
Subject: Transfer pump
A long time ago I had to rig up a transfer pump to pump mogas into a C-150 for which I had an STC to use Mogas. Anyway all I did is by a diesel fuel pump from a Mercedes at a junk yard . You can get a diesel fuel pump from any of the automotive stores. NAPA,Pep Boys, etc.. just tell them you want a positive displacement pump, which I assume would be any diesel fuel pump. The guy I bought my Mark II from had a battery operated pump, which is what I'd really like to have. He couldn't remember where he got it, though. Anyone here have any info? On my MII, and due in part to the fact that I'm short, with short arms, reaching the gas tanks is a real pain anyway. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Transfer pump
Since it's late, I'll just trot out an old piece from UF mag. A Fuelish Solution Among many other things I miss after having to sell my beautiful Cessna Cardinal is the absence of a ramp fuel attendant to refuel my FireFly. Of course he wouldnt have mogas, nor the required oil type for the 50:1, but he would at least lift up that five gallon can and awkwardly try to get its spout into the waiting tank without spilling, and all the time maneuvering in and around the forest of fuselage cage members. Yeah I see pumps for sale, both mechanical and electrical that can do the job, but at BIG prices. Growing up in The Depression and soloing prewar (Thats The Biggie) I have a healthy respect for Cheap! So if youre interested in cheap but good, and easy to build, read on. Otherwise go directly to the Accident Reports or other gripping stuff. When I had the Cardinal at home base I used a lot of mogas which required a ladder, scuff pad on wing, funnel, and lots of grunting and heaving. So I dinged up a simple little system that pumped gas out of ferry tank in bed of pickup or cars trunk right up to wing tanks. What follows is an entirely safe pumping method having no electrical connections or batteries, just a bit of compressed air from a portable air tank. Since Im talking mostly to kit builders, Ill just give you the basic ideas and let you gather the materials from various sources. You need to scrounge two major items: a fuel tank holding 6.5 to as much as 13 gals. Why 6.5? Easy. With that much you need just a pint of 2-stroke oil. The 13 needs two pints of course. Tank should stand vertically; an old auto tank wont work quite as well. Try chemical companies, pesticides, anyone who uses chemicals in large quantities. And a leftover 20# Freon bottle (empty!)or easier to find, a 20# LPG bottle. Now fix/find/make a tightly sealing cap for the supply tank, large enough to install a 3/8th or 1/2 PVC tube that will reach almost to bottom. This is the pickup tube. Either put a simple valve on outside end, or merely connect to flex line for insertion in your UL tank. Wait, not done with cap. Also put on an ordinary valve stem from a tubeless tire rim, complete with Schrader valve. Holes through cap should be fairly airtight. If you already have a small portable air tank, youre almost done. If not go to auto parts store and buy (I hate that word) a kit to convert one of the above tanks to an air bottle. Some even have a pressure gage. I made mine from old fittings. You can test this whole shebang with water. Put a few gallons in gas tank (the one you just made, not your ULs!) Gently inlet some air from bottle via Schrader valve. Spray nearby pilots who are laughing at you. Make a note of how long it takes to run 5 gals (legal UL) or whatever, and how much air. I used to pump 13 gal with a 20# bottle filled at 100 psi. If you arent near an air compressor, buy (?) one of those cheap (love that word) little compressors that plugs into your cars cigar lighter. That way you are keeping all electrical stuff away during fueling. 568 words published in Ultralight Flying mag Bob Noyer a.k.a The Grey Baron flying a Kolb FireFly 1316 Darlington Dr. Winchester VA 22603 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
If you have the right prop you can get these performance characteristics. When I had a small 60" prop on my direct drive VW It would turn 3500 RPM static, climb, and straight and level WOT. This prop was throwing air faster than I could go in my MKIII so it never changed RPMs with speed changes. It also didn't produce much thrust. With my reduction drive I have a wide blade, three bladed 72 inch prop. This prop produces a lot of thrust but turns 3500 static and over 4100 level at WOT. The prop is too large to be fixed pitch and get good climb and cruise. Also as I get over 3800 RPM the prop starts making noise. I have some choices of modifying the prop, changing props, in-flight adjustable or changing reduction ratios. I'm waiting for answers from my redrive guy but this may be the way to go. When you buy one of the standard engines some one else has done the experimenting on getting the right prop. You would think the prop makers would know but they didn't in my case, it is close but.... Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII <<<>>> _ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Fuel transfer
Date: Aug 15, 2002
Northern Tool and Equipment company ( Formerly Northern Hydraulic) has a pretty good assortment of fuel transfer devices. Priced from about $25 and up..........Snuf ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bill-jo" <bill-jo(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Transfer pump
Date: Aug 15, 2002
Kolbers With all the talk about putting fuel in their Kolbs here is how I do it.I bought a portable 12 gal boat gas tank which comes with gauge,pickup tube all ready for the fuel line to be hooked. I ordered a 12 volt fuel pump from Aircraft&Spruce and mounted it to the tank.I got two quick-disconnect and installed one in each fuel caps in the plane.I have 15 fl of black hardware fuel line that runs from the tank to the plane. I have the pump wired into the tail light wiring on my pick-up and I also have a 12 volt battery that I can run the pump with if I need to get the tank out of the truck.Just hook the line to the quick-disconnect and start the pump.It takes about 15 min to fill the tanks with not a drop spilled. You could add a 20 ft hose if you want but 15ft was plenty for me. Any one that wants pictures of this set-up contact me off list. Bill Futrell ML111Xtra ----- Original Message ----- From: <kugelair(at)netscape.net> Subject: Kolb-List: Transfer pump > > A long time ago I had to rig up a transfer pump to pump mogas into a C-150 for which I had an STC to use Mogas. Anyway all I did is by a diesel fuel pump from a Mercedes at a junk yard . You can get a diesel fuel pump from any of the automotive stores. NAPA,Pep Boys, etc.. just tell them you want a positive displacement pump, which I assume would be any diesel fuel pump. > > > The guy I bought my Mark II from had a battery operated pump, which is what > I'd really like to have. He couldn't remember where he got it, though. > Anyone here have any info? On my MII, and due in part to the fact that I'm > short, with short arms, reaching the gas tanks is a real pain anyway. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel dolly
I purchased a two wheel hand cart app. $20 dollars. I then cut a slot in the tongue of the hand cart the width of the tail wheel so that I can roll the cart up behind the tail wheel push the tongue under the tail wheel axle and the pull the plane along backwards by the tail wheel. I also added a bolt that sticks up through the tongue near the slot that keeps the tail wheel axle from slipping off the cart when you are pulling hard. works well for me. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII >>> kfackler(at)ameritech.net 08/14/02 06:58PM >>> My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end and it's a real chore to move her by hand. Does anyone here know of a good tow bar or dolly that works well with the Kolb line? Either one that can be purchased or one that a Hey-I-just-fly-these-things-I-don't-build-them kind of guy could cobble up? Many thanks for your inputs! - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles" <chieppa47(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Sept Fly In
Date: Aug 15, 2002
Hi All, Ok travel question --- I am driving to the Kolb Fly In Sept. 28 -29th) and as I come down rt. 64 heading towards Lexington KY.there appears to be a short cut around Lexington to rt. 75. It is rt. 627. Will this save me time or should I stay on the major highway through the Lexington area? Thanks in advance for your input . Charles ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2002
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Fuel transfer
I have found a fairly convenient way to deal with refueling. Instead of the usual 5 gallon cans, I use 6 gallon red plastic boat tanks from Walmart. They are the right size to mix one pint per 6 gallons or a quart for two tanks to get your 50:1 mix. If you throw a towel up on the wing, you can set them on the wing and they are low profile (unlike the usual 5 gallon gas tanks) so that you can get the siphon in easily. I use a jiggle siphon -Northern sells them, so does Lockwood and CPS. The jiggle siphon comes with a 6' hose, and it works well. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) --- Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2002
From: possums <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Atlanta, GA
> >I'm driving to Atlanta this weekend. Any grass strips with/without >Kolbs that I can visit? > >Jim >Mark III >Charlotte, NC Most of us are going to the "Head Quarters" BBQ on Saturday. We may or may not come back Sat afternoon. Got several grass strips & airports with Kolbs & others just Northwest of Atlanta. http://www.georgiasportflyers.com/pages/newsletters/august%202002.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: LiteSpeed
Date: Aug 15, 2002
In an email exchange with Linda at Kolb today, she assured me that Litespeed (and Brian) are alive and well, though they do seem to have trouble with communication at times. -Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Johann G." <johann-g(at)tal.is>
Subject: Landed on one main wheel.
Date: Aug 15, 2002
Hi Kolb list friends. I have a story of my friend here in Iceland, that just bought a used Kolb Twinstar from Italy. He lives in the East part of the island and I on the SW corner.I helped him with a few landings, just to get to know the plane when it arrived from Italy, and then he was off to the east to his home and family. The plane was just great and performing as a Kolb should, and he was( and still is) very happy with his new plane. A few days ago, he was flying around the east fjords and had made plans to land where his family was waiting for him with dinner from the grill.The grass field was long and wide but had a few huge hay rolls dressed in white plastic. This is to protect it from the rain. This was not a problem since the space was sufficient. After the pleasant evening with his family( evenings in Iceland at this time of the year are bright and sunny) he decided to head on home to his field. He had on shoes with a little bigger sole than usual, so the space for his shoes on the rudder pedals was a little crowded. This cause him to press on the two center pedal during the take off roll. The plane turned to the right because there was no compensation for the torque. When he finally figured out what was happening with the rudder pedals, he pulled back his legs and corrected the position. Full control and he was airborne, but now he was heading towards one of the hay rolls on the field. The right main tire hit the hay roll, and the tire broke off, leaving the gear leg only and slightly bent. He decided to head back home and land at the tarmac field instead of the grass. He did two low passes over the field where the police and ambulance were waiting for a major accident. But my friend was not worried about this minor problem, and landed as slowly as possible on the left main gear, with a left slant, and the slowly eased it on the right leg. The plane made a 90=B0turn when the leg hit the tarmac, and stopped almost immediately after the turn. The police and ambulance people were almost disappointed to see him jump out of the plane with a smile, and only a minor damage to the Twinstar. It is maybe not fair to say that the police and ambulance people were disappointed, but were ready for the worst. They were rather happy to see that everything went well. They helped my friend to load the plane in the trailer again, where it is now waiting for a new gear leg and a new axle fitting from The New Kolb Co. If you would like to see some pictures of his plane and trailer, he does have a web page in Icelandic, but the pictures are International. :) Best regards from Iceland, and fly safe. Johann G. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Johann G." <johann-g(at)tal.is>
Subject: Re: Landed on one main wheel
Date: Aug 15, 2002
Hi list members. Sorry about the link missing from last post. Here it is: http://hjalmar.ismennt.is Best regards, Johann G. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: Landed on one main wheel
Date: Aug 15, 2002
Johann, That's funny. Sorry but I don't read any of the words and didn't see not one picture... Richard Harris MK3 N912RH Arkansas ----- Original Message ----- From: "Johann G." <johann-g(at)tal.is> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Landed on one main wheel > > Hi list members. > > Sorry about the link missing from last post. Here it is: > http://hjalmar.ismennt.is > > Best regards, > Johann G. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2002
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel dolly
Ken and Group, I made a really simple tow bar and it works for me. It is made from a shovel handle, and piece of aluminum tubing and a half inch bolt. The bolt slides into the tube that the tail wheel springs attach to, and the plan can be pulled backward, with steering, while facing the plane to watch the wing tips. I don't think that the aluminum tube would even be necessary. The bolt could probably be put through hardwood. It just looks more like an aircraft tool with the aluminum tube. John Jung Fackler, Ken wrote: > >My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end and it's a real >chore to move her by hand. Does anyone here know of a good tow bar or dolly >that works well with the Kolb line? Either one that can be purchased or one >that a Hey-I-just-fly-these-things-I-don't-build-them kind of guy could >cobble up? > >Many thanks for your inputs! > >-Ken > >P.S. Thanks to everyone who responded so kindly to my request for info about >a cross-threaded plug hole on a 503. This group is fabulous! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2002
From: "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel dolly
This might not be guite to the question asked but here goes anyway. I had thought about building a dolly for my FireStar but when I put the break away swivel tail wheel on the dolly became unnecessary. I just pop the tail to the side and the swivel breaks loose and I can move the plane any where I want to by just using a little pressure on the rudder. No need to raise the tail off the ground. Ron Payne -------Original Message------- From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Date: Friday, August 16, 2002 06:42:20 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tailwheel dolly Ken and Group, I made a really simple tow bar and it works for me. It is made from a shovel handle, and piece of aluminum tubing and a half inch bolt. The bolt slides into the tube that the tail wheel springs attach to, and the plan can be pulled backward, with steering, while facing the plane to watch the wing tips. I don't think that the aluminum tube would even be necessary. The bolt could probably be put through hardwood. It just looks more like an aircraft tool with the aluminum tube. John Jung Fackler, Ken wrote: > >My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end and it's a real >chore to move her by hand. Does anyone here know of a good tow bar or dolly >that works well with the Kolb line? Either one that can be purchased or one >that a Hey-I-just-fly-these-things-I-don't-build-them kind of guy could >cobble up? > >Many thanks for your inputs! > >-Ken > >P.S. Thanks to everyone who responded so kindly to my request for info about >a cross-threaded plug hole on a 503. This group is fabulous! > > _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2002
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov>
Subject: Re: pig roast
This sounds like fun I missed the pig roast this year but maybe next year. I considered flying to the pig roast but wonder what procedures I would need to follow to fly from the USA to Canada and back. I understand we are supposed to land at the nearest airport with customs agents but ???? Anyone know? Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIII >>> bill-jo(at)prodigy.net 08/15/02 09:05PM >>> Kolbers My wife and me along with my friend Warren Branscomb attended Woodys pig roast. We had a great time and it is such a good place for something like this. It is a good place to bring the family and kids and just have a picnic.Plenty of food ,planes, and music. If any of you are close enough to go next year I am sure you will have a good time,I plan on going next year also. Catch Ya Latter Bill Futrell MK111Xtra ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Victor 1 - FireFly Progress Report - #2
> >Jack, > >What's the latest on the italian engine? > >Gene Gene, Good news. I finished reinstalling the engine today, and flew the FireFly for about an hour. Finally, the engine will run right on up to 6000 rpm without any problems of EGT or excessive fuel consumption. I burned fuel at the average rate of 2.36 gph and this included two take off and landings, and the first half hour I ran the engine hard. The engine/muffler is very quiet. I do not power up my anr head set, because if I do the sound that comes through is very tinnie(?) and objectionable. The engine is still breaking in and getting stronger. It likes to run and it follows the throttle very nicely. It reaches max rpm at about 40% open throttle just like the 447 (uses the same Bing carburetor with different needle and jets). It idles at less than 1000 rpm so it makes it nice for slow taxiing, but it works and slips the belt at anything below 2000 rpm. I went from a 60 inch to a 68 inch propeller, a slightly higher reduction ratio and a higher thrust line, and the propeller noise seems much less than before. The engine does not load up so long taxies to the runway have no effect on the engine spooling up for take off. I still have some trimming to do. If I let go of the stick at cruise, the nose slowly drops and it rolls to the left. Also in what I consider to be level flight the ball is not centered, so I have to figure out what to do to get it back in trim. Lowering the front of the horizontal stabilizer to help compensate for the higher thrust line at cruise speed and the roll can be taken care of with the aileron trim. I have inquired about purchasing a smaller drive pulley to boost the belt reduction from 1/2.7 to 1/3. This will let me add more pitch into the propeller and should boost propeller efficiency. I never thought when I took the 447 off on March 28th that it would take so long to get to this day. It has been a great day. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2002
From: Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Kolb Firefly kit for sale
Partially built Kolb Firefly kit in Atlanta, GA less than half the equivalent factory price. send me an email if interested. mailto:2scott(at)bellsouth.net Scott Perkins ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Johann G." <johann-g(at)tal.is>
Subject: Re: Landed on one main wheel
Date: Aug 17, 2002
Hello Kolb friends. Sorry for not realizing the complications for someone not speaking the language, to find the correct link. Here is a more precise link to the pictures of his trailer and Twinstar. http://hjalmar.ismennt.is/Vagn.htm Best regards, Johann G. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Landed on one main wheel <rharris@magnolia-net.com> > > Johann, That's funny. Sorry but I don't read any of the words and didn't see > not one picture... > > > Richard Harris > MK3 N912RH > Arkansas > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Johann G." <johann-g(at)tal.is> > To: > Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Landed on one main wheel > > > > > > Hi list members. > > > > Sorry about the link missing from last post. Here it is: > > http://hjalmar.ismennt.is > > > > Best regards, > > Johann G. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Kolb Database
Date: Aug 17, 2002
This is a reminder of the builder/pilot database avialible at http://www.springeraviation.net/. There are a few new pics also. Also, everyone seems to have a way of pitching props and the method that I used on my new Powerfin using a laser pointer was easy and very accurate. Please Email for any details on that... Kip Laurie Firetstar II Atlanta dama(at)mindspring.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: tubes
Date: Aug 13, 2002
Yah, I'm real aware of that.............this was the high priced, Coast Guard approved flotation foam. Lar. ----- Original Message ----- From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tubes > > In a message dated 8/11/02 12:32:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > biglar(at)gogittum.com writes: > > << took lots of pics of the procedure, and several knowledgable > people complimented me on the job. Anyhow..........even tho' I completely > encapsulated everything with marine plywood & epoxy, somehow, somewhere, > water got in, and that "waterproof" foam soaked up a couple hundred pounds > of salt water. Opened it up, and it WOULD NOT dry out. Never did figure > out a good answer to that one. Far as I know, it's still going strong. > Again, Been There Lar. >> > > There's 2 kinds of foam....open cell and closed cell.....it probably makes a > big difference which type it is for absorption. > > George Randolph > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Martin" <martintr(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel transfer
Date: Aug 17, 2002
----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel transfer > > I have found a fairly convenient way to deal with refueling. Instead of the > usual 5 gallon cans, I use 6 gallon red plastic boat tanks from Walmart. > They are the right size to mix one pint per 6 gallons or a quart for two > tanks to get your 50:1 mix. If you throw a towel up on the wing, you can > set them on the wing and they are low profile (unlike the usual 5 gallon > gas tanks) so that you can get the siphon in easily. I use a jiggle siphon > -Northern sells them, so does Lockwood and CPS. The jiggle siphon comes > with a 6' hose, and it works well. > > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > --- > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2002
Subject: Re: Kolb Database
From: CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com>
Great Site. Wish I knew about your site when I first started it would have helped out a lot. It looks like most paid for the poweder coating option. I think I will alodine mine. I am wondering if it is possible to cover the tail while its on the aircraft? It looks like after I put the tail ring on inclusive of the primer and the first coat of pain(t) it aint wanting to come off. :-) I suppose I can bang it to get it off, but at present too timid to do it. 8/17/02 6:03dama > > This is a reminder of the builder/pilot database avialible at > http://www.springeraviation.net/. > There are a few new pics also. Also, everyone seems to have a way of > pitching props and the method that I used on my new Powerfin using a laser > pointer was easy and very accurate. Please Email for any details on that... > Kip Laurie > Firetstar II > Atlanta > dama(at)mindspring.com > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel transfer
I took some photos while refueling the FireFly. If you are interested you can see them at: http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly81.html Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Transfer pump
Moving gasoline by air pressure works but is illegal due to the extra oxygenation given to the gas thus making it more volatile and explosive. Check local safety regulations. >What follows is an entirely safe pumping method having no electrical >connections or batteries, just a bit of compressed air from a portable >air tank. Since Im talking mostly to kit builders, Ill just give you >the basic ideas and let you gather the materials from various sources. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel dolly
> >My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end MIne weighs about 120 lbs folded on the tail wheel. I removed the fabric from the rear spar tube end and stick in a 1" tube as a handle to move it around. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel transfer
I turned my 5 gal FF fuel tank 90 CW (that's to-the-right fer all you with digital watches) so that the filler cap is nearer the edge of the cage. Makes it a little easier, but Jack Hart's slick setup is the best! Bob N, ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 17, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel transfer
Jack, How many strokes does it take to transfer a gallon or 5 gallons. Just a comment, if you dump your sloshing bottle contents in the main tank, what do you do if you misestimate the amount of fuel required to fill the main tank. I know your a very meticulous person but doesn't that leave the possibility of having to much oil in the main tank... and then what do you do. You could very easily do this on an XC flight or even at home refueling. jerryb > >I took some photos while refueling the FireFly. If you are interested you >can see them at: > >http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly81.html > >Jack B. Hart FF004 >Jackson, MO > > >Jack & Louise Hart >jbhart(at)ldd.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel transfer
Jerry, I will have to report back on how many stokes it takes to move a gallon of gas. But thanks to Richard Pike, he identified the pump I use. It is the Han-D-Pump, Model#: HP009 that he listed. They say it will transfer fuel at over one gallon per minute. You can see a discription at: http://www.instep.net/pages/product_display.php?manuf=1&prod_number=HP009 I have worried about making errors in oil/gas mixing, and I have defensed against them by having two scales on my measuring bottle. A normal scale and an inverted scale. If the gas tank indicates it has 1.25 gallons left in the tank, I fill the oil bottle to 1.25 on the inverted scale and this gives me enough oil for 3.75 gallons. I added another picture to the html and some more explaination. If you would like a scale for an 8 ounce medicine bottle for a 100 to 1 mix you can download a copy. http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly81.html Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO > >Jack, >How many strokes does it take to transfer a gallon or 5 gallons. >Just a comment, if you dump your sloshing bottle contents in the main tank, >what do you do if you misestimate the amount of fuel required to fill the >main tank. I know your a very meticulous person but doesn't that leave the >possibility of having to much oil in the main tank... and then what do you >do. You could very easily do this on an XC flight or even at home refueling. >jerryb > > >> Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles" <chieppa47(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel transfer
Date: Aug 18, 2002
Hi All, This fuel transfer thing has me thinking. I have tried the Hand Pump several years ago, also call "The Petro Pump" takes forever. Don't get me wrong here -- it will do the job and in some cases works out great. Did I mention it takes forever? There is a better way --- I am working on a pressure siphon system now and will post results when it works. I have a 503 so oil mix is of no concern. Charles ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 18, 2002
Subject: Re: Fuel transfer
Wouldn't an alligator clip grounding wire attached to the airplane take care of the potential static spark problem from just about all of the refueling methods? Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel transfer
Date: Aug 18, 2002
that of course was the point of my original message. What ever method that you use, you should be making sure that you ground it. I guess it is supposed to be particularly dangerous with plastic tanks. larry ----- Original Message ----- From: <SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel transfer > > Wouldn't an alligator clip grounding wire attached to the airplane take care > of the potential static spark problem from just about all of the refueling > methods? > > Steve > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Air
At the pig roast I flew a Mk111 into it the night before. The next day I trailered my thunderbird in for display. Yes the rides I was giving was not in the Thunderbird but the venerable mk 111. I tried starting the Thunderbird today with no luck. The 582 barks a bit and runs for a couple seconds after the starter is turned off but no big fire up. If it had I would have been telling the list about my taxi tests and probably about the good Canadian air that was seen under the tires for a brief glorious moment. I will go by my old advise and put new plugs in before I try anything else. The plugs are getting damp is all I know about the situation right now. Do any list members have any ideas on starting this engine that has sat for a few years. I spun it without plugs for a few minutes to get good lube before reinstalling the plugs and trying for the first fire up. I am planning to take it to Kentucky if I can get some air time before hand. If you have never been to Chestnut knolls once you lift off there is nothing but trees for miles around except for that little patch you took off from. Rather intimidating for a flat land farmer like me. Never had the Jelly but my first shock was to find that you could not buy beer there. The next year I brought my own and was going to share it with Beauford but he made up some lame excuse about his buddy almost dying and had to get him home. Good Canadian beer would have cured him. I hope to see ya there. Everybody bring their own name tags. Kolb will not supply them. >In the words of Jakov Smirnov "What a country!" It may be illegal to have >air in Canada but I don't think so in the US. You said you trailered the >T-bird and then said you gave rides - different plane? >How close are we talkin about? Any chance you are trailerin down to >KY. KY is nice but their jelly is terrible - ever tasted KY jelly? Bill > > >_________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Subject: Victor 1 - FireFly Progress Report - #2
Date: Aug 18, 2002
> >Jack, > >What's the latest on the italian engine? > >Gene I have inquired about purchasing a smaller drive pulley to boost the belt reduction from 1/2.7 to 1/3. This will let me add more pitch into the propeller and should boost propeller efficiency. I never thought when I took the 447 off on March 28th that it would take so long to get to this day. It has been a great day. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net Jack, Ivo had some problems years ago with running a 3 blade prop on an engine with a 3/1 reduction. It set up some harsh harmonics that cause a lot of movement between the prop blades and the hub plates. Don't know if that will be a possible problem for you...just throwing out a heads up for you.... Good luck and congratulations on the successful experimentin' sounds like you'll have the most fuel efficient Kolb around. Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)ldl.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Transfer pump
Woody, below when you state using air pressure causes extra oxygenation, is this from bubbles in the pumped fuel or to a higher density of air (oxygen) in the refueling tank due to the air pressure developed in the plus that fresh air diluting the fuel vapors to a more combustible ratio. Couldn't nitrogen or carbon dioxide be used for creating the pressure. jerryb > > > Moving gasoline by air pressure works but is illegal due to the extra >oxygenation given to the gas thus making it more volatile and explosive. >Check local safety regulations. > > > >What follows is an entirely safe pumping method having no electrical > >connections or batteries, just a bit of compressed air from a portable > >air tank. Since Im talking mostly to kit builders, Ill just give you > >the basic ideas and let you gather the materials from various sources. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2002
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Transfer pump--the rest of the story
OK, I've spent an hour in researching the alleged dangers of pumping gasoline via low pressure air. As a writer, it makes a good short article. The Debil is in the details, and defining what low pressure air is. If you have watched a pro use a W. Va credit card, they always use two hoses and a wet rag, stuffing one hose in the filler tube all the way to the bottom, and the other to just inside the neck. They then pack the wet rag around the two to seal them, and blow into the short hose to start the gas flowing, after which 'siphon and gravity effect' take over. No muss, no fuss, and no gas on the breath if they want to smoke or get bounced by the 'Enforcers of Social Justice' (All gas thieves learn early not to steal gas outside a donut store) As with most urban legends, there is a bit of truth, but it soon gets lost in obtuse explanations.The problem is that most people can blow about a pound or two per sq inch, blowing into a gas tank of, say, 2 foot by 3 foot at 2 lbs/in/sq, that would be 864 sq in times two pounds of up (and down) force on the top and bottom of the tank, and the possibility of rupture (of the tank, not the intern) is certainly to be reckoned with. During WW I, some airplanes used air pressure to get fuel to the engine-- the Mercedes Benz engine even has a camshaft driven pump. Given the copper tanks and lines, and the fatigue problems associated with copper, it is no wonder they often went down in flames for no obvious reason. A bullet hole anywhere, and the gas would pour out until the pressure went away. Old race cars also pumped gas that way, that was the reason for riding mechanics in the early days of Indy. Today, with the EPA mandated sealed auto fuel systems, we often have pressurized tanks just from the vapor pressure of the fuel, and the vapor pressure of car petrol is double that of Av gas. So, not to worry. Up to the point of rupturing the container there certainly is no problem, and most Fuel Injection cars have an air filled pulse damper in the line between the pump and injector, they run at a minimum of 3 bar (about 48 lb/in/sq,) and some as high as 6 bar. I'm now trying to find the"regulations" that prohibit using low press. air for pumping gas. Bob N. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2002
From: jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel transfer
I like the filler handle. I been toying about rigging some contraption up to allow me to pump fuel my from 5 gallon Jerry jugs/cans in to the airplanes tank. Tried of the hoist and balance on the wing or step ladder scenario. I envision a small refueler cart with a platform that will position the jug where on of the corners away from the nozzle opening will sit at the lower level. The cart would have a battery, pump, and power switch in an enclosed case. Hose connections will be thru explosion proof NEMA connectors. A pick up hose would be weighted and inserted into low corner of the jug. The output may go thru a filter. The output hose at the filler end would have a handle like sold by Northern, the one jack referenced or the small aluminum one they sell. Was considering the air pressure thing but having second thoughts based upon some of the comments over this topic. Diluting the vapor ratio to the point of 15/1 from pumping air into a tank increases the potential for a explosion. Looking for a 12 volt fuel pump that will pump in the neighborhood of 60 to 120 gallons hour or 1-2 gallons minute. Some can pump up a pressure in a closed circuit but can't produce much volume in a open circuit. Would like to be at least as fast and siphoning with the tank sitting on the wing. Any body know of any site that has specs on the Facet fuel pumps? jerryb > >Jerry, > >I will have to report back on how many stokes it takes to move a gallon of >gas. But thanks to Richard Pike, he identified the pump I use. It is the >Han-D-Pump, Model#: HP009 that he listed. They say it will transfer fuel >at over one gallon per minute. You can see a discription at: > >http://www.instep.net/pages/product_display.php?manuf=1&prod_number=HP009 > >I have worried about making errors in oil/gas mixing, and I have defensed >against them by having two scales on my measuring bottle. A normal scale >and an inverted scale. If the gas tank indicates it has 1.25 gallons left >in the tank, I fill the oil bottle to 1.25 on the inverted scale and this >gives me enough oil for 3.75 gallons. > >I added another picture to the html and some more explaination. If you >would like a scale for an 8 ounce medicine bottle for a 100 to 1 mix you >can download a copy. > >http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly81.html > >Jack B. Hart FF004 >Jackson, MO > > > > >Jack, > >How many strokes does it take to transfer a gallon or 5 gallons. > >Just a comment, if you dump your sloshing bottle contents in the main tank, > >what do you do if you misestimate the amount of fuel required to fill the > >main tank. I know your a very meticulous person but doesn't that leave the > >possibility of having to much oil in the main tank... and then what do you > >do. You could very easily do this on an XC flight or even at home > refueling. > >jerryb > > > > > >> > > >Jack & Louise Hart >jbhart(at)ldd.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Lawton" <skyrider(at)pgtv.net>
Subject: Fuel Transfer Tank & Pump
Date: Aug 19, 2002
Although some may feel it's a bit pricey, I guess it just depends on how much you fly as to whether you can justify this item. Here's a helpfull link: http://www.skilimited.com/product.asp?clickpath=&base%5Fno=DD%2DGP1&str%5Fba se%5Fno=2RB%2DGT%2CBM%2D35723%2CDD%2DGP1%2CGA%2D117%2CXAT%2D30%2CXMG%2D007%2 CXST%2D7820%2CXST%2D84516%2CXSW%2D16H%2CXSW%2D26H%2CXTA%2D086%2CXTA%2D96000% 2CXTE%2DGW%2C&header%5Ftitle=Keyword+Search&page%5Fname=search%2Fkeyword%5Fr esults%2Easp&search%5Ftype=Gas&size1=&size2=&gender=0&ShowImages=yes&sq=0&co nt=1&intPgNo=1&mscssid=TLU9N58AFVQG8K33LK7DC6X319N3A7B5 You might have to cut and paste the link into your browser's URL window...... There are also other products like "Gas Caddy" and "Gas Buddy" that have similar hand pumps. I've used a homemade handtruck with a 3 step welded ladder that has a 12 volt pump, battery and hose installed to it for nearly 20 years to fuel many different ultralights. Will try to get a picture of it to post soon. Safe Flying, Doug Lawton NE Georgia and Whitwell, TN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Lawton" <skyrider(at)pgtv.net>
Subject: Fuel Transfer Cans and Pumps
Date: Aug 19, 2002
Also, Ski Limited carries the "Gas Walker" which is a 29 gallon model: http://www.skilimited.com/product.asp?clickpath=&base%5Fno=XTE%2DGW&str%5Fba se%5Fno=2RB%2DGT%2CBM%2D35723%2CDD%2DGP1%2CGA%2D117%2CXAT%2D30%2CXMG%2D007%2 CXST%2D7820%2CXST%2D84516%2CXSW%2D16H%2CXSW%2D26H%2CXTA%2D086%2CXTA%2D96000% 2CXTE%2DGW%2C&header%5Ftitle=Keyword+Search&page%5Fname=search%2Fkeyword%5Fr esults%2Easp&search%5Ftype=Gas&size1=&size2=&gender=0&ShowImages=yes&sq=8&co nt=1&intPgNo=2&mscssid=TLU9N58AFVQG8K33LK7DC6X319N3A7B5 I have a friend that has this model for his boats. He's had some problems with the hose attachment where it leaves the bottom side of the tank. It kinks after a year or so of use and then starts leaking. He's replaced the hose with a HD one this summer, so far, no problems. Safe Flying, Doug Lawton NE Georgia and Whitwell, TN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: 447 Rotax Engine for Sale
Rotax 447 engine for sale. Actual flight hours - 79 Asking price - $1400 Complete history available Engine Features B gear box FireFly engine mount Muffler mounted Dual EGT sensors Dual HT sensors No points Deficiency Needs new heavy spring for fuel enrichment valve in Bing Carb Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Flap handle
Date: Aug 19, 2002
I'm curious about the operation of the flap handle relating to co-ordination. On the Mark 3 if the flaps are lowered, right hand operation of the flap handle would mean the left hand would be on the control stick. Otherwise, you would have to reach across with the left hand to operate the flap handle. Is this difficult to master or does it come naturally? How do you guys do it? Left/right or right/left? Then what about the throttle position? How is that manipulated? ..........snuffy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2002
From: P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Noise reduction - try 199 dollar ANR's
Try attacking the problem from the other end. Lightspeed engineering is offering factory rebuilt, full warrantee ANR Noise Reduction QFR Solo headsets for 199.00. Any attempt to mask the noise on the airplane will most certainly add weight or make inspection of critical components difficult or may even trap moisture. Buy some 200 dollar ANR's and enjoy life. Call Lightspeed's 800 phone number and ask for the factory rebuilds. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: 582 startup
Put new plugs in the 582 today and tried starting. No luck. I pulled the bowl off the PTO end carb and it was full of pure 2 cycle oil. What caused this? Regular gas in the other bowl. After dumping the oil and switching bowls I was able to get the engine started for a minute or so but it would not run fast or smooth. Any ideas? Tomorrow I will clean and rebuild the carbs. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Transfer pump--the rest of the story
> >I'm now trying to find the"regulations" that prohibit using low press. >air for pumping gas. > >Bob N. Good luck in your search. The articles I read were from the 80's probably Glider rider or Ultralight planes. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: 582 startup
> >Do you use premix or injection? >Richard Pike >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Injected synthetic. How do I adjust the mix ratio on the engine to use the higher ratio oils? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 582 startup
Date: Aug 19, 2002
If you are using the injection system, the checkvalve in the oilsupply line going to the PTO cyl. is stuck open and needs to be replaced. It should hold at least 5 ich of mercury for several minutes. Been there done that Frank Reynen MKIII ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> Subject: Kolb-List: 582 startup > > > Put new plugs in the 582 today and tried starting. No luck. I pulled the > bowl off the PTO end carb and it was full of pure 2 cycle oil. What caused > this? Regular gas in the other bowl. After dumping the oil and switching > bowls I was able to get the engine started for a minute or so but it would > not run fast or smooth. Any ideas? Tomorrow I will clean and rebuild the carbs. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2002
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: 582 startup oh woe is me
Tried starting my 582 again this evening. Fired right up and then stopped dead. Seized tighter than a drum. After a few well intended curses we removed the engine and before we did anything else we pulled the gearbox. Like a miracle the engine rotated freely. The output shaft of the gearbox rotated freely. A close inspection revealed the inside bearing had given up. There was almost a 1/8 play up and down and I could almost rotate the center race out. Is there a simple way of getting that bearing out? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Roll around gas station.
Date: Aug 19, 2002
I made a portable gas station using a 35 gallon poly barrel that I obtained from the local weed sprayer - they get dye in the barrels to add to the poison to see where they spray. Dye is water soluble so wash out with soap and water. Then rinse with gasoline. I got a small hand cart from local farm supply $22 and strapped the barrel to the cart. Add a Northern pump of your choice and you have a roll around gas station for less than $50 (barrel was free). Also added a wire with an alligator clip to the pump so I can ground the aircraft tank to the pump. Picture upon request. Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 19, 2002
Subject: Re: 582 startup
In a message dated 8/19/02 6:14:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com writes: > If you are using the injection system, the checkvalve in the oilsupply line > going to the PTO cyl. is stuck open and needs to be replaced. It should > hold > at least 5 ich of mercury for several minutes. > Been there done that > Frank Reynen MKIII > Frank, What was the result of the failure of the check valve that you mentioned? Steven Green ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 19, 2002
Subject: Fuel Transfer
Kolbers, All the talk about fueling Kolbs and no one has mentioned the method I use. (probably too complicated or too expensive) I purchased a 4' long piece of 3/4" vinyl clear tubing at Lowes for a dollar or two. This fits snugly over the spout of the 5 and 6 gallon fuel cans that Walmart sells. I cut a piece of 3/4" aluminum tubing 3" long and inserted 1-1/2" in one end of the hose and clamped it. This is the discharge end that goes in the plane tank. With the hose in the tank I pick up the can and it takes about a minute to transfer 5 gallons and the hose is long enough to stand in front of the wing while refueling. after fueling the plane the ends of the hose are stuck together to prevent dirt from getting inside the hose. I told you it was complicated. Steven Green ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Olenik" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com>
Subject: 582 startup oh woe is me
Date: Aug 19, 2002
Which bearing and which gearbox? Most of them are pressed out, but some of them will fall out if you stick the box in an oven or at least make them easy to push out. It's real easy to crack a gearbox housing if you don't do it right. So be careful. Probably should replace the seals in the box while you are at it. If there is one thing that I would change with the Rotax gearboxes, it would be to make them more like the 2SI gearbox. With that box, it splits sort of like the crankcase does on the Rotax engines. So there is no pressing required to take the prop shaft or bearings out. Tom Olenik Olenik Aviation http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com/rotax.htm http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com/2si-engines.htm -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Woody Subject: Kolb-List: 582 startup oh woe is me Tried starting my 582 again this evening. Fired right up and then stopped dead. Seized tighter than a drum. After a few well intended curses we removed the engine and before we did anything else we pulled the gearbox. Like a miracle the engine rotated freely. The output shaft of the gearbox rotated freely. A close inspection revealed the inside bearing had given up. There was almost a 1/8 play up and down and I could almost rotate the center race out. Is there a simple way of getting that bearing out? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 582 startup
Date: Aug 19, 2002
Steve I also found oil in one carb after sitting for several weeks and changed out the checkvalve with a new one .What I failed to notice was that the new checkvalve never worked right and an airbubble stayed in the line and the affected cylinder never got any oil and caused the big-end bearing to fry and piston seizure with a subsequent forced landing. I removed the entire injection system and went to CPS and checked about 5 valves before finding two good ones that would open properly and held about 5 inch of mercury for several minutes. After assembling the pump and valves I ran the pump on the bench with a drill motor for 15 minutes to verify that the two outlets had the same oilflow before bolting every thing back to the 582. No more problems afterwards. Frank ----- Original Message ----- From: <SGreenpg(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 582 startup > > In a message dated 8/19/02 6:14:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com writes: > > > > If you are using the injection system, the checkvalve in the oilsupply line > > going to the PTO cyl. is stuck open and needs to be replaced. It should > > hold > > at least 5 ich of mercury for several minutes. > > Been there done that > > Frank Reynen MKIII > > > > Frank, > What was the result of the failure of the check valve that you mentioned? > > Steven Green > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles" <chieppa47(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Transfer
Date: Aug 20, 2002
Steven, TopGun set this method up 3 years ago and I posted my refinements just the other day. (well still working on them) I too am using the siphon method and with the simple plumbing setup I can remove fuel from any KOLB system. As well as refuel with speed and ease. No elec. pumps or the slower hand pumps are used. You can see the setup in Sept. at The New KOLB Aircraft get together. Charles ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Transfer
> All the talk about fueling Kolbs and no one has mentioned the method I use. > (probably too complicated or too expensive) > Steven Green Steven/Gents: Wrong. :-) I posted a msg last Wed about my 6' X 1" ID vinyl hose I stick on the end of the spout of my Wal*Mart Rubber Maid 5 gal gas cans. I also use a piece of alum tubing stuck in one end as a connector for the other end when not in use. This keeps the hose clean inside. I have to fill on top of the center section, about 10 o'clock position from the engine. Six ft hose allows me to put one end of hose in the filler neck and the other on the gas tank spout, with the can sitting on the ground. At 63 I can still lift the can over my head, most of the time hehehe. If I get to the point that I can't lift 5 gal, will buy me some 2.5 gal cans. Only take a minute or two to get the job done. Normally, when flying around the local area, I fuel up with 5 or ten gal of gas. However, when getting ready to do a serious cross country, it may take 4 or 5, 5 gal cans, to get the tank topped off. Dribbling it in with a small fuel pump ain't gonna get the job done for me. :-) Never timed how long it takes to dump a 5 gal can, but it is only a minute or two. Toss the hose in the airplane, and when I get to a place where I can get auto fuel, it is simple to stick the hose on the local guys can and refuel. Without the hose, on top of the tail boom, hugging the hot SS exhaust system, man handling a 5 gal can, it is extremely difficult to hit that little hole where the fuel goes in the airplane. Not fun at all. Quick figuring at 5 gal an hour for 1,700 hours, equals about 8,500 gals.. Now, I am not saying I picked up and poured that much fuel in my Mark III, cause some of that fuel was 100LL purchased on XC's. But the majority of that fuel was hand loaded into the airplane. I think my system works, as long as I can put the can over my head. When it gets to the point that I can't lift a 2.5 can, then I am gonna get me a refueling station like the rest of you guys. Take care, john h PS: Got a bc note from Big Lar. He finally made it to Hyder, Alaska, southernmost town in Alaska. He sent me a picture of a grizzily bear feeding on salmon a couple miles north of the village, in Fish Creek. I am sure he would not mind I share it with you all: http://hawk36.home.mindspring.com/Larry%20Bourne%202002/Ozzie%20&%20His%20Salmon.JPG ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: which radio?
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: Aug 20, 2002
08/20/2002 11:57:02 AM > --to buy a radio, handheld > naturally.--and I would appreciate any info as to which brand is > best at ignoring ignition noise. When researching radios in 1998, I discovered one factor which pushed me to the Yaesu. I wanted the ability to charge the radio while it is being used. In other words, power in 12 volts from plane power system, while operating radio, and internal battery is also charging. At the time I purchased, the available competitor's radios did not do this. Because the radio has this feature, I use it anytime I want and never have to purposely plug it in over night to recharge it. It is always ready, because it charges while I use it in the air. Your needs may vary. Also, today's radios may differ. This info is from 1998. While on radio subject, our tests of rubber-duckie antenna versus a solid-wire antenna with ground plane and tuned with SWR meter, have shown almost no real advantage to having an antenna in the airstream. Both transmitted/received about 20 miles, outside antenna slightly cleaner, but both useable. Jim Gerken ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2002
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: noise rejection
> Gadget gurus, my brother has kindly offered to buy a radio, handheld > naturally.--and I would appreciate any info as to which brand is > best at ignoring ignition noise. A long time ago the King was superior > in that respect, but now????? thanx -BB BB/Gents: I started out with an STS, then a King KX 99, and now an ICOM A3. This has been over a 16 year period. I didn't have a radio in my Ultrastar. The Icom A3, I bought it last year. KX 99 was an excellent performing radio, but cost to much to repair. It is not in production at this time. STS went belly up years ago. The ICOM A3 works well, is a very small package, especially with the battery removed, which is the way I use it. Have it mounted to the old radio mount, minus battery. Operates off the aircraft 12VDC bat. It is VHF comm only. I don't have any need for VOR, which normally does not work well with hand held radios. The A3 was the cheapest radio available from a recognized company, about $300.00 including the head set adapter which is necessary to wire the radio into the intercom and aircraft system. Engine noise is best dealt with rather than trying to find a radio that overcomes it. Not much problem on our newer generation engines with CDI ign. I find a large capacitor, 22,000 MF works well and can be purchased at Radio Shack or other electornic supply houses. This soaks up a lot of alternator noise that is commonly misdiagnosed as ign noise. Resistor type plugs also soak up ign noise. Resistor plugs also work well with stock Rotax spark plug terminals that have some noise suppression built in. You can not tell the difference, performance wise, between resistor or non resistor type plugs. Using a battery powered aircraft system also helps controlling ign noise. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2002
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel transfer
>Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 10:43:01 -0500 > >Jerry, > >I will have to report back on how many stokes it takes to move a gallon of gas. But thanks to Richard Pike, he identified the pump I use. It is the Han-D-Pump, Model#: HP009 that he listed. They say it will transfer fuel at over one gallon per minute. > Jerry, It takes sixty full strokes to pump one gallon of gas. At this time I have 83 hours on the FireFly. Assuming a conservative average of 2.5 gph, it calculates out to about 208 gallons this pump has transfered. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
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