Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dt
August 06, 2002 - August 23, 2002
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
I hope to be, but I'm probably only honestly at about a 50% probability at
this point. Largely that's due to the cost. Having just purchased my Mark
II, and spending money like I own the press tweaking it, it may just not be
possible this year.
-Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles" <chieppa47(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Sept Fly In
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am going to the Sept Fly in (The New KOLB Aircraft) and was wondering
how
> many others will be there.
>
> Charles
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
I'm planning to be there, it the WX cooperates.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I am going to the Sept Fly in (The New KOLB Aircraft) and was wondering how
>many others will be there.
>
>Charles
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> I'm planning to be there, it the WX cooperates.
> Richard Pike
Same here.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey,
It is great to touch base again with you guys from the list going way
back.
Digging up some of those good ol favorite subjects -- EGT at the Y, and
Seafoam -- I figure this gives me the liberty to bring up brakes. Go
ahead, sigh, roll your eyes! Heck, your finger is probably twitching
right over that delete key. But I'm bringin it up anyway! :)
I'm wondering if anyone knows of people trying bicycle disc brakes on
an ultralight. I've just checked at a local bike shop and read a
couple reviews. It looks like a company called Avid makes a mechanical
caliper and disc set that is very highly regarded, and goes for about
$100, i.e. $200 for a pair of brakes, plus cables. Hydraulics are
about double that, add more brake modulation, but not more stopping
power.
Like the cyclists, we like our stuff light. My flying weight is not a
lot over a heavily loaded tandem bike. As well, I figure I need less
braking power than the tandem coming down a very long hill at 50mph.
So it seems they might work well on a single place UL.
Anyway, since I seem hopelessly hooked on trying brake experiments
instead of just buying what others know work well, I think I'll try
this experiment too unless anyone here talks me out of it.
BTW, George and Ralph, Hope you won't be done with me if I tell you I
had changed from a single EGT at the Y to double sensors. My
compulsion to do this came from actually getting engine failures, which
I had eventually traced to air leaks mostly on the PTO exhaust port. I
think my relationship with 2-strokes is not a healthy one -- we
needlessly fuss with each other more than we should. Ack.
-Ben
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: disk brakes? |
Mike Shackleford was the first one to bring up the idea of using bicycle
disc brakes on a FireStar. I thought it sounded like a good idea. I checked
with the local bicycle shop and there just happened to be a bicycle
manufactures rep there. We discussed the subject and came up with the Avid
cable disc brake as the best way to go. No master cylinder to have to mount.
I have a set of these brakes here now and am starting to work on the
application. A local aircraft speciality shop is going to make the adapter
plates for me. These brakes are very well made and I can see no reason why
they will not be a vast improvement over the drum brakes that I have now. If
you decide to go this route, keep us posted and I will do the same.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, August 06, 2002 12:56:16 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: disk brakes?
Hey,
It is great to touch base again with you guys from the list going way
back.
Digging up some of those good ol favorite subjects -- EGT at the Y, and
Seafoam -- I figure this gives me the liberty to bring up brakes. Go
ahead, sigh, roll your eyes! Heck, your finger is probably twitching
right over that delete key. But I'm bringin it up anyway! :)
I'm wondering if anyone knows of people trying bicycle disc brakes on
an ultralight. I've just checked at a local bike shop and read a
couple reviews. It looks like a company called Avid makes a mechanical
caliper and disc set that is very highly regarded, and goes for about
$100, i.e. $200 for a pair of brakes, plus cables. Hydraulics are
about double that, add more brake modulation, but not more stopping
power.
Like the cyclists, we like our stuff light. My flying weight is not a
lot over a heavily loaded tandem bike. As well, I figure I need less
braking power than the tandem coming down a very long hill at 50mph.
So it seems they might work well on a single place UL.
Anyway, since I seem hopelessly hooked on trying brake experiments
instead of just buying what others know work well, I think I'll try
this experiment too unless anyone here talks me out of it.
BTW, George and Ralph, Hope you won't be done with me if I tell you I
had changed from a single EGT at the Y to double sensors. My
compulsion to do this came from actually getting engine failures, which
I had eventually traced to air leaks mostly on the PTO exhaust port. I
think my relationship with 2-strokes is not a healthy one -- we
needlessly fuss with each other more than we should. Ack.
-Ben
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
http://health.yahoo.com
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Thanks to all that responded and sent attachments. I should be able to
assemble it today.
>
>
> How are the plastic fairings held on the round struts? I don't have the
>plans to tell me. This matter requires urgent attention :)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: bad EGT sender |
In a message dated 8/5/02 10:51:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
richard(at)bcchapel.org writes:
<<
Years ago on my Hummer with a Rotax 277, I installed a smoke system. Used a
2 liter bottle, pressurized to inject Corvis oil into the exhaust pipe just
downstream from the exhaust manifold. Worked great, but the interesting
part was that the oil was obviously vaporizing and burning in the pipe in
nodes or energy waves because the paint would burn off the pipe in
regularly spaced sections. In between those sections, it stayed normal. You
could look at the pipe and the areas with the paint burned off let you
visualize the pulse waves that were going on inside it.
But the real question is, if you were to put an egt gauge into the
expansion cone area of the muffler, would you get higher readings at the
sections where the paint was blistered? Or would the temperature be
constant, and the blisters were just where the pulses were concentrated
against the walls? From what we are hearing about probe placement, I get
the impression that the temperatures rise and fall according to where the
pulses focus.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>>
It makes some sense that the Highest point of pulsed energy would be at the Y
as the energy coming from both cylinders has the opportunity to meet there.
Of Course whether the energy level is at a high or a low may depend on
different variables such as speed of the engine, and certainly length of the
pipe to that point. I don't know this, just guessing, except about the
length. Pulse migration must be similar to standing waves on a waveguide or
antennae lead, where the actual length is definitely one of the
variables...and of course the frequency is just as important..as they have to
be played together to achieve an efficient antenna system.
Well I just told you everything that I KNOW and also everything I THINK I
KNOW about this whole subject.
George Randolph the ol glider pilot from Akron O
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | HAC, limitations |
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
08/06/2002 08:31:24 AM
>How do you like the HAC carbs overall? What has been the + and - of them?
>How can they compensate for changes in air density and not compensate for
>changes in air and engine temps? I thought that if they automatically
kept
>the fuel mix correct for different density altitudes ( and thus for
different
>air temps) they would also automatically keep the engine temps at or
within
>the acceptable optimal range as a result. What am I missing here? They
must
>work differently than I thought. How do they work mechanically?
>
>How much affect do the various engine loads and settings have on your
EGTs?
>Is this why you are considering alternatives to the HAC?
>
>Steve
HAC: I like the system. It is simple and effective at controlling mixture
strength compensating for ambient air pressure changes. They also increase
fuel economy, as their effect is to lean the mixture down from a
ground-level setting. So if you are like me, and fly at 3500 or 5500 going
east and 4500 or 6500 going west, you can enjoy the benefits of closer
fuel-air mixture. I won't try to convince you to fly higher than you're
comfortable. I like the visibility, radio range, air smoothness, gliding
distance improvement, cooler air,,,and the plane gets to 3500 so fast it is
almost free anyway. If you are flying with a couple buddies, and you fly
higher than them, you can almost always see them.
Now for the CONS: The cost is too high for what you get, both materially,
and technologically. The kit is basically an extra hole drilled into one
carb venturi for a vacuum source, a bunch of tubing and a few fittings,
and the HAC diaphram/needle assembly which modulates the vacuum source to
supply it to the float bowl chambers. To me, this adds up to $150 or $200
worth of stuff & knowledge, even at Rotax prices.
Next CON: It does only the ambient pressure compensation. Temperature is
a different matter, and the HAC knows nothing about air temp. I still end
up changing jets about four times a year, for air temp changes. Add to
this the extreme difference in air temp due to altitude change on certain
days in the Fall, and you see that HAC is only half the solution.
As others on this List have said, engine loading greatly affects the EGT.
I won't re-type what others have stated quite well concerning the
difference between light cruise power and climb power mixture needs. Some
days I am going places, and I want to make good time getting there. Other
days I am not so driven and can just lope around the sky. I jet and prop
my 582 mkiii w/powerfin 3-blade like John H recommends: Prop for WOT just
touch redline level flight. So it runs perfectly and predictably and just
about hits 1200 degrees EGT WOT level. But slow it down a thousand RPM for
slower more comfortable less noisy flight and it drops to 950 degrees. If
I want 1100 minimum at cruise, I need to be able to trim it manually. HAC
alone won't do this. Then, I take off for the day at 7 am, air temp is 50
degrees on the ground, 15-20 degrees cooler at altitude, and goes up from
there all day long until it hits 75 or 80 mid afternoon. Now, some of you
may disagree, but experience (two strokes on the ground, all kinds of
machines) has shown me that a change of 20 degrees without jetting
accordingly means you're throwing away some of the power your engine could
make if jetted properly. Ignoring the power potential is half the issue,
'cause leaving it jetted rich adds to fuel-deposits in the combustion
chamber. HAC won't solve this for me either. So I experiment.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 2 cycle lubing |
In a message dated 8/5/02 3:09:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes:
It aint because its lean on Fuel its because its lean on
oil. So increase your F/O ratio if you are going to lean it.
> Ron
Ron/Gents:
I have to disagree with the above. Fuel is critical to cool
the engine. Normally set up two stroke engines are actually
fuel rich in order to keep the egt below 1200F. A four
stroke engine runs temps in the 1,500F's. It is the fuel
that is keeping the egt down and cooling the engine at
higher power settings.
Take care, >>
this is the way I learned it also and the other thing I learned but may be
unsubstantiated, was that you don't want to leave the throttle at around 3/4
cause the mixture is approaching too lean ...anybody?
The coolest point of operation according to my learnin days was at full
throttle on 2 cycles, due to the fuel cooling...
George Randolph
ps -this was from a fella by the name of Bob Morrison near Warren Ohio in the
80's but I never forgot it...and it was Cuyunna talk on a pterodactly
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: 2 cycle lubing |
> this is the way I learned it also and the other thing I learned but may be
> unsubstantiated, was that you don't want to leave the throttle at around 3/4
> cause the mixture is approaching too lean ...anybody?
> George Randolph
George/Gents:
Everybody has a different way to do things. Me too!!!
Bings and Mikunis operate the same way on a two stroke,
whether Rotax or Cuyuna.
First 25% throttle is controlled by the idle jet and air
screw.
Next 50% is controlled by the fuel needle.
And finally, the last 25% is controlled by the main jet.
I am comfortable when the prop is properly loaded, i.e.,
engine turns the red line, or just bumps it, at WOT straight
and level flight. At WOT I like to see the EGT at about
1050F, 1100F max.
Cruise flight for me is about 75% power or 5800 rpm. I can
afford to run leaner now cause I am not putting out as much
power and heat. Now I am looking for around 1150F. If I do
not have it, I can raise or lower the fuel needle one knotch
at a time until I get it.
Idle, I do not worry about EGT, just try and get the engine
to idle as best I can, especially if I do not have an
electric starter. Experience shows that losing an engine
from idle on short final is not the place to try a restart,
unless you can hit the starter button and get it going
again.
Most of the time we only use WOT to take off and to climb.
This is when we are putting the max strain and heat on the
engine. I want a little extra fuel to provide adequate
cooling.
I also make a habit of climbing WOT and not partial
throttle. I want the engine to be running off the main jet
and not being metered in a lean realm by the fuel needle.
I am not that concerned about fuel economy, more toward
reliability and simplicity. Two strokes are gas hogs by
nature. They have to be to survive.
I do not experiment with fuel oil mix ratios. I believe the
engineers that designed the engine know more about that area
of operation than I do. I do believe we can operate on each
side of the fuel/oil ratio with success. That a certain
probable error was factored into the 50:1 mix. Just a WAG,
but 10% each side of 50 is 45:1 and 55:1.
Somewhere I heard that fuel/oil ratio has a direct effect on
crank and connecting rod bearings. Maybe it was here on the
Kolb List. IIRC an over rich oil mix can also cause crank
bearing problems. Maybe I am as screwed up as a soup
sandwich, but back in the recesses of my ancient memory
lurks these thoughts.
For the adventurous experimenters, go ahead and experiement
with fuel/oil ratios. Can't hurt anything but you, your
engine, and your airplane. :-)
Take care,
john h
hauck's holler, alabama
PS: Got to get some Epoxy Chromate, Polybrush, and other
stuff so I can get my Mark III back in the air. Times
awasting. Kolb Flyin will be here before you know it.
Seems like yesterday that a few hearty souls met at Chesnut
Knolls Air Foundation for the 2001 Kolb Unflyin. See ya'll
there.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
I'm not sure if we're talking about the same calipers, but I used a set
that I got from a lawn mower/go-cart shop. $15 each. I made rotors out of
circular saw blades (yes, I cut the teeth off :>), and welded up brakets.
While they worked (up to around 3800rpm), I never really was happy with
them, and they seemed to need constant adjustment. Here's a pic of mine:
http://challenger.inebraska.com/jstewart/brakes1.jpg
More pictures are at the bottom of http://challenger.inebraska.com/brad.htm
I just replaced mine with Tracy O'Brien hydraulics, and now I can lock
the
wheels up and skid the tires on grass.
Hope that helps.
J.D. Stewart
Internet Nebraska-Norfolk
http://www.inebraska.com
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.ultrafunairsports.com
Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator
http://challenger.inebraska.com
>
>
> Mike Shackleford was the first one to bring up the idea of using bicycle
> disc brakes on a FireStar. I thought it sounded like a good idea.
> I checked
> with the local bicycle shop and there just happened to be a bicycle
> manufactures rep there. We discussed the subject and came up with the Avid
> cable disc brake as the best way to go. No master cylinder to
> have to mount.
> I have a set of these brakes here now and am starting to work on the
> application. A local aircraft speciality shop is going to make the adapter
> plates for me. These brakes are very well made and I can see no reason why
> they will not be a vast improvement over the drum brakes that I
> have now. If
> you decide to go this route, keep us posted and I will do the same.
>
> Ron Payne
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 46 Msgs - 08/05/02 |
Where can you purchase streamlined wing strut covers?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | APilot(at)webtv.net (Vic Gibson) |
Subject: | Mark III Classic for sale |
Sacramento area. Will deliver on west coast. With or without avionics.
a/c 916, 722-9692
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 07/31/02 |
Did extensive experimenting with deflection of leading edge
of vert stab.
Conclusion was results were not sufficient to warrant
bending the vertical
stabilizer out of column. Max deflection was about 1 3/4".
A good rudder trim tab of the correct size and angle will
get the adverse yaw
problem squared away, as my Mark III is now.
john h
=====================
i think that the rudder trim should be the easiest of
all...... on the steel post that mounts in the nosecone
where the springs mount to, well leave it a bit long....
take some 3/32 welding rod ( heavy coat hanger will do)
and make some pieces a couple inches long with hooks bent on
each end. hook your springs to the wires and go fly....
if you need more right rudder, shorten the wire hook for
the right and make the one for the left a bit longer. while
on the ground the rudder will sit to one side which to me is
not a big problem.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Olenik" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
Subject: | HAC, limitations |
The HAC system is no longer available from Rotax. I sold the last HAC kit
to come through Kodiak two months ago. However, the parts may be available
soon to convert existing current production Bing 54 carbs. I think the
whole conversion kit is going to be less than $200, but it is still not a
sure thing. The actual compensator has been the tough part and those are on
their way from Germany now, but no one knows exactly what is going to be
there until we see it. If the compensator is complete with all of it's
fittings, it may be a reality in just a few more weeks to be able to convert
your existing carbs to HAC for under $200. If you want to know if your
carbs can be converted, you can e-mail me a picture of the side of your carb
off list. There would be a plugged port next to where the main fuel line
goes to the carb. On older carbs, this was not even there, but all the
current ones have the port with just a plug in it. It's then as simple as
replacing the plug with a barbed fitting and changing the jetting to prep
the carb for HAC. Hook up all the lines, and it's ready to go.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Gerken
Subject: Kolb-List: HAC, limitations
>How do you like the HAC carbs overall? What has been the + and - of them?
>How can they compensate for changes in air density and not compensate for
>changes in air and engine temps? I thought that if they automatically
kept
>the fuel mix correct for different density altitudes ( and thus for
different
>air temps) they would also automatically keep the engine temps at or
within
>the acceptable optimal range as a result. What am I missing here? They
must
>work differently than I thought. How do they work mechanically?
>
>How much affect do the various engine loads and settings have on your
EGTs?
>Is this why you are considering alternatives to the HAC?
>
>Steve
HAC: I like the system. It is simple and effective at controlling mixture
strength compensating for ambient air pressure changes. They also increase
fuel economy, as their effect is to lean the mixture down from a
ground-level setting. So if you are like me, and fly at 3500 or 5500 going
east and 4500 or 6500 going west, you can enjoy the benefits of closer
fuel-air mixture. I won't try to convince you to fly higher than you're
comfortable. I like the visibility, radio range, air smoothness, gliding
distance improvement, cooler air,,,and the plane gets to 3500 so fast it is
almost free anyway. If you are flying with a couple buddies, and you fly
higher than them, you can almost always see them.
Now for the CONS: The cost is too high for what you get, both materially,
and technologically. The kit is basically an extra hole drilled into one
carb venturi for a vacuum source, a bunch of tubing and a few fittings,
and the HAC diaphram/needle assembly which modulates the vacuum source to
supply it to the float bowl chambers. To me, this adds up to $150 or $200
worth of stuff & knowledge, even at Rotax prices.
Next CON: It does only the ambient pressure compensation. Temperature is
a different matter, and the HAC knows nothing about air temp. I still end
up changing jets about four times a year, for air temp changes. Add to
this the extreme difference in air temp due to altitude change on certain
days in the Fall, and you see that HAC is only half the solution.
As others on this List have said, engine loading greatly affects the EGT.
I won't re-type what others have stated quite well concerning the
difference between light cruise power and climb power mixture needs. Some
days I am going places, and I want to make good time getting there. Other
days I am not so driven and can just lope around the sky. I jet and prop
my 582 mkiii w/powerfin 3-blade like John H recommends: Prop for WOT just
touch redline level flight. So it runs perfectly and predictably and just
about hits 1200 degrees EGT WOT level. But slow it down a thousand RPM for
slower more comfortable less noisy flight and it drops to 950 degrees. If
I want 1100 minimum at cruise, I need to be able to trim it manually. HAC
alone won't do this. Then, I take off for the day at 7 am, air temp is 50
degrees on the ground, 15-20 degrees cooler at altitude, and goes up from
there all day long until it hits 75 or 80 mid afternoon. Now, some of you
may disagree, but experience (two strokes on the ground, all kinds of
machines) has shown me that a change of 20 degrees without jetting
accordingly means you're throwing away some of the power your engine could
make if jetted properly. Ignoring the power potential is half the issue,
'cause leaving it jetted rich adds to fuel-deposits in the combustion
chamber. HAC won't solve this for me either. So I experiment.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: 2 cycle lubing |
>this is the way I learned it also and the other thing I learned but may be
>unsubstantiated, was that you don't want to leave the throttle at around 3/4
>cause the mixture is approaching too lean ...anybody?
>The coolest point of operation according to my learnin days was at full
>throttle on 2 cycles, due to the fuel cooling...
>
>George Randolph
>
George & Others,
I did a little study on my 447 because I noticed that when the engine was propped
for 6000 rpm it would reach that rpm at much less that wide open throttle.
The charts that are used to explain how the Bing carburetor works are only valid
if the carburetor is properly sized to the engine and maximum engine rpm is
reached at 100% open throttle. But this is not the case of my 447. It reached
6000 rpm at 40% WOT. Main jet influence from 40% to 100% throttle will not
change because there is no increased air flow. The needle & jet will have some
influence at richening the mixture because one can increase the jet opening
during constant air flow by further opening the throttle above 40%.
If you would like to see the study results, you can see them at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly58b.html
One other comment, in trying to improve cross country performance, I increased
the prop pitch to limit the engine to 5600 rpm. What happened was cruise EGT's
and rpm's remained stable which made for more pleasant flying, and the FireFly
cruised just as fast, but I lost 500 fpm of climb.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: 2 cycle lubing |
> One other comment, in trying to improve cross country performance, I increased
the prop pitch to limit the engine to 5600 rpm. What happened was cruise EGT's
and rpm's remained stable which made for more pleasant flying, and the FireFly
cruised just as fast, but I lost 500 fpm of climb.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
Jack B/Gang:
If the engine is designed to turn 6,800 rpm max, why load it
down with pitch to 5,600 or 6,000 rpm? I don't have the
chart in front of me, but 5,600 rpm equates to about 70%
power for the 447 which, off the top of my head, is aprx 28
hp (?). 75% would be 30 hp.
The 912/912S are designed for 5,500 rpm max continuous. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 07/31/02 |
while
> on the ground the rudder will sit to one side which to me is
> not a big problem.
>
> boyd
Boyd/Gents:
Forced trim will work for rudder trim, but I don't want my
rudder offset on the ground or have unequal pressure on the
rudder pedals when I am taxiing. Therefore, I went with a
trim tab. Most of my flying is at cruise rpm. That is
where the trim tab is set to give me a trimmed up airplane.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
>>>>> Next CON: It does only the ambient pressure compensation. Temperature is
a different matter, and the HAC knows nothing about air temp. I still end
up changing jets about four times a year, for air temp changes. <<<<<
===========================
If it compansates for pressure it automatically comapnsates for temperature. The
carb in fact senses only density altitude and it is a combination of both temp
and ambiant pressure. Why you change jets for performance has to be for other
reasons.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
>>>>>> I have to disagree with the above. Fuel is critical to cool
the engine. Normally set up two stroke engines are actually
fuel rich in order to keep the egt below 1200F. A four
stroke engine runs temps in the 1,500F's. It is the fuel
that is keeping the egt down and cooling the engine at
higher power settings.<<<<<
Fuel is a component in cooling, and air is also a component in cooling. just throw
a blanket on your engine at full power and see how long it takes it to burn
up. However cooling was not what I was thinking about, it was inadequat lubrication
at lean f/a settings. For example you can go to the lean side of peak
on any internal combustion engine not just 2 cycle and guess what will happen,
and its counter intuitive for many to boot. It will run *****Cooler***** but
in the case of the two cycle motor it will be *starved* really really starved
for lubrication. In other words you Egt will read very low and you are happily
thinking gee everything is fine by my Exahust Gas Temprerature, when at the same
time your engine is grinding the piss out of itself, because of almost no
lubrication at all (goes back to the point I was making earlier, if you are going
to lean it on the F/A make sure you enrich it on the F/O).
In other words thinking that your EGT tells you anything except your F/A burn mixture
is terribly wrong and no one should do it. Your CHT is very imoprtant,
your RPM is very important for a particular throtle setting, your EGt tells you
if your combustion is good (as you feel comfortable with). Most importantly
make sure the engine is runing warm and giving you the power that you need. Screwing
around with mixtures on a good runing 2 cycle engine thats getting the
proper lubrication,, no scaffing etc.. is folly.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: 2 cycle lubing |
>Jack B/Gang:
>
>If the engine is designed to turn 6,800 rpm max, why load it
>down with pitch to 5,600 or 6,000 rpm? I don't have the
>chart in front of me, but 5,600 rpm equates to about 70%
>power for the 447 which, off the top of my head, is aprx 28
>hp (?). 75% would be 30 hp.
>
>The 912/912S are designed for 5,500 rpm max continuous. :-)
>
>john h
>
John,
I have the ultra light vehicle constraint. To keep the FireFly legal, I had to
limit the 447 to 38 hp and that translates into 6000 rpm max. and the 447 can
generate 38 hp at this rpm. This can be seen in the following document: (This
is a large html so be patient)
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/fireflylegal.html
Or, just the 447 horsepower curve can be seen at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/rotaxhp.jpg
The 447 can generate just a little less than 35 hp at 5600 rpm.
The reason for loading the engine on down is to try and reach an economical cruise
condition. Others told me I was running my engine too fast to get good cross
country performance. To check this out I ran some fuel flow studies.
They can be seen at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly58c.html
After I loaded the engine down to 5600, I never ran another fuel flow study because
I had made the decision to change from the Rotax 447 to the Victor 1.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rick Trader message of Sun, 4 Aug 2002 23:50:01 |
-0700
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rick Trader message of Sun, 4 Aug 2002
Dennis,
Thank you. Reading of Ricks adventure is what made me decide on the Kolb.
I could identify with Rick personally as a guy like me. After reading about
his trip I could see nothing on the market that could compare with the Kolb.
I still don't think there's one that does . The most versatile in it's class
at the best price. One of these days I might actually pilot one I hope.
Still sitting in the cage making engine noises though....Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 8/6/02 9:19:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, GeoR38(at)aol.com
writes:
> Years ago on my Hummer with a Rotax 277, I installed a smoke system. Used a
> 2 liter bottle, pressurized to inject Corvis oil into the exhaust pipe just
> downstream from the exhaust manifold. Worked great, but the interesting
>
Richard, a friend of mine is trying to put smoke on a Rans S-9 Chaos w/ 582
with limited success. When he closes the throttle he gets good smoke, but
when he opens it all the way he only gets about 10% smoke. He's using a 16
psi pump, gonna' change to a 22 psi. Any ideas??
What's Corvis oil, what's the cost, & where do you get it?
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
Subject: | 2 cycle oil sources |
I could use a little help on sources for obtaining synthetic two-stroke oil
in my area, which is the Rochester, Michigan region.
Any help greatly appreciated!
-Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Woody Weaver" <mts0140(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
Subject: | Re: 2 cycle oil sources |
Try
http://www.goa-northcoastoil.com/products/products/arctblue.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: 2 cycle oil sources
>
> I could use a little help on sources for obtaining synthetic two-stroke
oil
> in my area, which is the Rochester, Michigan region.
>
> Any help greatly appreciated!
>
> -Ken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
I am almost sure I saw walmart selling it. I also saw some at my local Honda Bike
shop. I am just about sure you can get it at any Bike shop but check Wally
World first on account they have the cheapest prices,, usually. :-)
I could use a little help on sources for obtaining synthetic two-stroke oil
in my area, which is the Rochester, Michigan region.
Any help greatly appreciated!
-Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
>
>
>In a message dated 8/6/02 9:19:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time, GeoR38(at)aol.com
>writes:
>Richard, a friend of mine is trying to put smoke on a Rans S-9 Chaos w/ 582
>with limited success. When he closes the throttle he gets good smoke, but
>when he opens it all the way he only gets about 10% smoke. He's using a 16
>psi pump, gonna' change to a 22 psi. Any ideas??
>
>What's Corvis oil, what's the cost, & where do you get it?
>
>Shack
> FS II
>SC
Rans S-9 Chaos? Uhhh...Ok. Let's make this Kolb related:
for any Kolb owners who want their airplanes to really smoke,
here's how I did it years ago....simple, cheap, and low tech.
You will need the following items.
a 2 liter plastic (PET) soda bottle
a rubber grommet
2 brass shut off valves.
a brass valve stem
about 18" of 1/4 copper tubing
about 6" of steel brake line
a band clamp to fit around your exhaust pipe
a 1/4" washer
enough 1/4" urethane tubing to plumb everything together
The basic plan is this: the bottle holds the Corvis oil and pressurized
air. You need a way to pressurize the bottle from an air hose. So you need
a valve to shut off the oil flow, and a valve stem to pressurize the sucker.
Take the 2 liter plastic soda bottle, bore a little hole in the cap, and
stick the rubber grommet in the hole. Through this grommet you will have a
length of 1/4" copper tubing that runs to the bottom of the bottle. You
want it to fit really tight, or it will leak air.
Where the tubing comes out of the bottle you will make a T fitting where
you can pressurize the bottle, that is where the valve stem goes.
Then (downstream, away from the bottle) comes a brass off/on valve.
Now you can take an air chuck and pressurize the bottle through the valve
stem, and when you pull the air chuck off, the oil in the bottle doesn't
squirt out because downstream of the bottle and the valve stem, you have
closed the valve.
Downstream from the valve, you run your flexible tubing to a second off/on
valve in your cockpit where you can reach it. This is the one you will use
in flight. The other one is sort of a fail safe. (You don't want your only
shut off to be in the cockpit if something springs a leak...)
From here, you run the tubing to the engine.
At the engine, the easiest place to put the oil injection is at the 90
degree elbow between the manifold and the muffler.
Take the steel brake line and braze or weld the washer about 1" back from
the end. Drill a hole in the elbow and also a hole in the band clamp. Clamp
the steel tubing onto the elbow so that about 1" of tubing is into the
elbow. Run the rest of the steel tubing away from the hot parts and attach
your urethane tubing to it.
Pressure test it! Close the valve closest to the bottle and pressure test
the thing with no oil in it. Mine would hold 100 psi, but usually I used 65
- 70 psi. Then open the valve next to the bottle and see if the second
valve will hold. Spray a little soapy water on it and look for bubbles. If
everything looks OK, you are ready.
I would fill the bottle half full of oil and then pressurize it. It smoked
really hard until it got almost empty of oil, and then not so much smoke.
At that pressure, I could get about 5 minutes straight of smoke. ( I think.
It's been years...)
Corvis oil: that is an oil normally used to waterproof wooden palettes, and
it is what the air show guys use. A number of years ago, the Red Baron
Pizza Stearmans were in town, and when their show was over, they still had
5 gallons left in the bottom of a 55 gallon drum, and I was there when they
were trying to decide how to get rid of it. (They use up a 55 gallon drum
during a two day show, and don't plan to haul the remnants around)
Where do you normally buy it? I have no idea. Good luck.
I can guarantee that this system will smoke like crazy, from just off idle
to full throttle.
It will also burn the paint off your muffler at certain spots, and it will
burn all the carbon out of your exhaust ports, and off the top of your
piston, and the bottom of the head. That means you need to BE CAREFUL:
Now you are really experimenting!
The first time you try it out, watch your EGT real close. It never hurt my
277, the EGT stayed normal, but that proves nothing about what it might do
to your engine.
I would have no qualms about rigging this system up on my 532, I had
excellent reliability on my Rotax 277. I trust this will not hurt anybody's
engine, but the 277 was the only engine tested, so nothing is certain. I
only know the system will work, not how your particular engine will behave.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George" <geomurphy(at)mindspring.com> |
I have a 15 year old Fire Star that needs its wings recovered. I do
not like the idea of using the original wings due to their age. Does
anyone have a set of prints for the wings or know where I can find a
set??? I have the 5" spar.
George Murphy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
Has it been determined that there is a picnic in Sept. If so I will
probably be there - Thunderbird in tow.
> > I'm planning to be there, it the WX cooperates.
> > Richard Pike
>
>Same here.
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 8/6/02 9:16:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
duesouth(at)govital.net writes:
>
>
> Has it been determined that there is a picnic in Sept. If so I will
> probably be there - Thunderbird in tow.
>
It's official now, I saw it on TNK website.
I am planning to be there but will be driving. I won't have my plane back in
the air by then.
Steven Green
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
Goerge,
I have all of the original builders plans for a 1988 Firestar if that helps.
If they will help you, let me know and I can have a copy made and sent to
you. There is a list member on this site that has a set of wings he would
probably sell you that are already build. He went to the FS2 wing and has
these left.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Yah, I did chide Larry - gently - for being a lurker.............since he
has so much to offer, and presents his efforts and observations so clearly
and thoroughly. Sometimes we need to be reminded of applications, or new
ideas on using old applications, since memories tend to fade fairly
quickly...........that's when you say, "Oh Yeah - I remember that," and
maybe this time give it a try yourself. You can believe I'll try his idea
for vg's on the side..........sounds like a real plus.
Still-in-Port Angeles Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Variometer
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Korenek" <ken-foi(at)attbi.com>
> > I think I need to repitch my prop and I'm trying to nail down what my
> RPM's
> > vs MPH's are doing and I'm getting conflicting readings. I suspect
that
> I
> > am in a gradual climb or dive and the altimeter or VSI in the EIS
doesn't
> > show it- it stays locked on 0 but the rpm keeps rising or falling. By
> the
> > time I wait for the altimeter to show a change, I've messed up that data
> try.
>
>
> Big Lar as you know visited me on his way north. While he was here he
chided
> me for being a lurker. For the most part there is little I can add to the
> general knowledge of the list. I do think that I have discovered how to
> achieve level flight, at least for a little while. Your altimeter will
tell
> you if you are climbing, your rpm's will confirm that. I set my rpm's to
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
George,
I wouldn't worry about using the original wings. I don't think that any
Firestar is too old. Any problems should show up when the wings are
uncovered.
John Jung
George wrote:
>
>I have a 15 year old Fire Star that needs its wings recovered. I do
>not like the idea of using the original wings due to their age.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bill-jo" <bill-jo(at)prodigy.net> |
I will be there,I am going to drive down!
Bill Futrell
Do Not Achive
----- Original Message -----
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Sept Fly In
>
>
> >
>
> Has it been determined that there is a picnic in Sept. If so I will
> probably be there - Thunderbird in tow.
>
>
> > > I'm planning to be there, it the WX cooperates.
> > > Richard Pike
> >
> >Same here.
> >
> >john h
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
A friend of mine added smoke to his Challenger, and used a small weed
sprayer instead of the 2 liter bottle. That way he didn't have to have an
air compressor around, and could pump it up anytime. He just bungied it to
the back seat and ran a hose to a nipple welded to the exhaust. His EGTs
would rise pretty fast, so he normally would get around 10 seconds at a time
before they got too hot.
Here's a picture of the results:
http://challenger.inebraska.com/brads/Smoke.jpg
J.D. Stewart
Internet Nebraska-Norfolk
http://www.inebraska.com
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.ultrafunairsports.com
Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator
http://challenger.inebraska.com
>
> Rans S-9 Chaos? Uhhh...Ok. Let's make this Kolb related:
> for any Kolb owners who want their airplanes to really smoke,
> here's how I did it years ago....simple, cheap, and low tech.
> You will need the following items.
> a 2 liter plastic (PET) soda bottle
> a rubber grommet
> 2 brass shut off valves.
> a brass valve stem
> about 18" of 1/4 copper tubing
> about 6" of steel brake line
> a band clamp to fit around your exhaust pipe
> a 1/4" washer
> enough 1/4" urethane tubing to plumb everything together
> The basic plan is this: the bottle holds the Corvis oil and pressurized
> air. You need a way to pressurize the bottle from an air hose. So you need
> a valve to shut off the oil flow, and a valve stem to pressurize
> the sucker.
>
> Take the 2 liter plastic soda bottle, bore a little hole in the cap, and
> stick the rubber grommet in the hole. Through this grommet you will have a
> length of 1/4" copper tubing that runs to the bottom of the bottle. You
> want it to fit really tight, or it will leak air.
> Where the tubing comes out of the bottle you will make a T fitting where
> you can pressurize the bottle, that is where the valve stem goes.
> Then (downstream, away from the bottle) comes a brass off/on valve.
> Now you can take an air chuck and pressurize the bottle through the valve
> stem, and when you pull the air chuck off, the oil in the bottle doesn't
> squirt out because downstream of the bottle and the valve stem, you have
> closed the valve.
> Downstream from the valve, you run your flexible tubing to a second off/on
> valve in your cockpit where you can reach it. This is the one you will use
> in flight. The other one is sort of a fail safe. (You don't want your only
> shut off to be in the cockpit if something springs a leak...)
> >From here, you run the tubing to the engine.
> At the engine, the easiest place to put the oil injection is at the 90
> degree elbow between the manifold and the muffler.
> Take the steel brake line and braze or weld the washer about 1" back from
> the end. Drill a hole in the elbow and also a hole in the band
> clamp. Clamp
> the steel tubing onto the elbow so that about 1" of tubing is into the
> elbow. Run the rest of the steel tubing away from the hot parts and attach
> your urethane tubing to it.
>
> Pressure test it! Close the valve closest to the bottle and pressure test
> the thing with no oil in it. Mine would hold 100 psi, but usually
> I used 65
> - 70 psi. Then open the valve next to the bottle and see if the second
> valve will hold. Spray a little soapy water on it and look for bubbles. If
> everything looks OK, you are ready.
> I would fill the bottle half full of oil and then pressurize it. It smoked
> really hard until it got almost empty of oil, and then not so much smoke.
> At that pressure, I could get about 5 minutes straight of smoke.
> ( I think.
> It's been years...)
>
> Corvis oil: that is an oil normally used to waterproof wooden
> palettes, and
> it is what the air show guys use. A number of years ago, the Red Baron
> Pizza Stearmans were in town, and when their show was over, they still had
> 5 gallons left in the bottom of a 55 gallon drum, and I was there
> when they
> were trying to decide how to get rid of it. (They use up a 55 gallon drum
> during a two day show, and don't plan to haul the remnants around)
> Where do you normally buy it? I have no idea. Good luck.
>
> I can guarantee that this system will smoke like crazy, from just off idle
> to full throttle.
>
> It will also burn the paint off your muffler at certain spots, and it will
> burn all the carbon out of your exhaust ports, and off the top of your
> piston, and the bottom of the head. That means you need to BE CAREFUL:
> Now you are really experimenting!
> The first time you try it out, watch your EGT real close. It never hurt my
> 277, the EGT stayed normal, but that proves nothing about what it might do
> to your engine.
> I would have no qualms about rigging this system up on my 532, I had
> excellent reliability on my Rotax 277. I trust this will not hurt
> anybody's
> engine, but the 277 was the only engine tested, so nothing is certain. I
> only know the system will work, not how your particular engine
> will behave.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> ---
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: 2 cycle lubing |
>
>As I have been following this thread something occured to me that may be
>of very significant impact on a 2 stroke motor (I like saying motor).
>:-) snip ......
My old ex-military flight instructor used to say "street cars have Motors,
airplanes have Engines."
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: disk brakes? |
Hi Ben,
JerryB here. It's been a while. Glad to see your lurking on the list.
Have you looked into the Tracy O'Brien hydraulic brakes. They work really
well.
We have on guy that put them on his other brand airplane. Several others
of the same make have since added them. Everyone is very happy with
them. Great outfit and good product.
Their URL is:
http://www.tracyobrien.com/showcat.asp?id=9
jerryb
>
>Hey,
>It is great to touch base again with you guys from the list going way
>back.
>
>Digging up some of those good ol favorite subjects -- EGT at the Y, and
>Seafoam -- I figure this gives me the liberty to bring up brakes. Go
>ahead, sigh, roll your eyes! Heck, your finger is probably twitching
>right over that delete key. But I'm bringin it up anyway! :)
>
>I'm wondering if anyone knows of people trying bicycle disc brakes on
>an ultralight. I've just checked at a local bike shop and read a
>couple reviews. It looks like a company called Avid makes a mechanical
>caliper and disc set that is very highly regarded, and goes for about
>$100, i.e. $200 for a pair of brakes, plus cables. Hydraulics are
>about double that, add more brake modulation, but not more stopping
>power.
>
>Like the cyclists, we like our stuff light. My flying weight is not a
>lot over a heavily loaded tandem bike. As well, I figure I need less
>braking power than the tandem coming down a very long hill at 50mph.
>So it seems they might work well on a single place UL.
>
>Anyway, since I seem hopelessly hooked on trying brake experiments
>instead of just buying what others know work well, I think I'll try
>this experiment too unless anyone here talks me out of it.
>
>BTW, George and Ralph, Hope you won't be done with me if I tell you I
>had changed from a single EGT at the Y to double sensors. My
>compulsion to do this came from actually getting engine failures, which
>I had eventually traced to air leaks mostly on the PTO exhaust port. I
>think my relationship with 2-strokes is not a healthy one -- we
>needlessly fuss with each other more than we should. Ack.
>-Ben
>
>=====
>http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>http://health.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | minnesota fly in |
the 10th annual cherry grove fly in will be aug. 25.
in wanamingo mn. all are welcome, fly or drive.
for directions & other info please look at
"www.theflyin.com"
denny is still working on the sight, so if you need more info send me your
snail mail address & I will send you the info.
Mark Hansen
mhqqqqq(at)aol.com
twinstar
wanamingo mn.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Does Corvis oil contain carcinogens (cancer causing materials)?
We had a guy that used to come down to our end of the field and bellow
smoke then takeoff. He always seemed to pick the days when the winds
would blow it towards the side of the airport with the hangars. We would
be left having breath that crap. I mentioned to a few people that we went
going to tolerate it much longer. The word must have gotten back to him as
he quite doing it. No more problems with him after that.
If your going to play "air show performer", think of the people your
smoking, they may not enjoy the thrill as much as you.
jerryb
>
> A friend of mine added smoke to his Challenger, and used a small weed
>sprayer instead of the 2 liter bottle. That way he didn't have to have an
>air compressor around, and could pump it up anytime. He just bungied it to
>the back seat and ran a hose to a nipple welded to the exhaust. His EGTs
>would rise pretty fast, so he normally would get around 10 seconds at a time
>before they got too hot.
> Here's a picture of the results:
>http://challenger.inebraska.com/brads/Smoke.jpg
>
>J.D. Stewart
>Internet Nebraska-Norfolk
>http://www.inebraska.com
>UltraFun AirSports
>http://www.ultrafunairsports.com
>Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator
>http://challenger.inebraska.com
>
> >
> > Rans S-9 Chaos? Uhhh...Ok. Let's make this Kolb related:
> > for any Kolb owners who want their airplanes to really smoke,
> > here's how I did it years ago....simple, cheap, and low tech.
> > You will need the following items.
> > a 2 liter plastic (PET) soda bottle
> > a rubber grommet
> > 2 brass shut off valves.
> > a brass valve stem
> > about 18" of 1/4 copper tubing
> > about 6" of steel brake line
> > a band clamp to fit around your exhaust pipe
> > a 1/4" washer
> > enough 1/4" urethane tubing to plumb everything together
> > The basic plan is this: the bottle holds the Corvis oil and pressurized
> > air. You need a way to pressurize the bottle from an air hose. So you need
> > a valve to shut off the oil flow, and a valve stem to pressurize
> > the sucker.
> >
> > Take the 2 liter plastic soda bottle, bore a little hole in the cap, and
> > stick the rubber grommet in the hole. Through this grommet you will have a
> > length of 1/4" copper tubing that runs to the bottom of the bottle. You
> > want it to fit really tight, or it will leak air.
> > Where the tubing comes out of the bottle you will make a T fitting where
> > you can pressurize the bottle, that is where the valve stem goes.
> > Then (downstream, away from the bottle) comes a brass off/on valve.
> > Now you can take an air chuck and pressurize the bottle through the valve
> > stem, and when you pull the air chuck off, the oil in the bottle doesn't
> > squirt out because downstream of the bottle and the valve stem, you have
> > closed the valve.
> > Downstream from the valve, you run your flexible tubing to a second off/on
> > valve in your cockpit where you can reach it. This is the one you will use
> > in flight. The other one is sort of a fail safe. (You don't want your only
> > shut off to be in the cockpit if something springs a leak...)
> > >From here, you run the tubing to the engine.
> > At the engine, the easiest place to put the oil injection is at the 90
> > degree elbow between the manifold and the muffler.
> > Take the steel brake line and braze or weld the washer about 1" back from
> > the end. Drill a hole in the elbow and also a hole in the band
> > clamp. Clamp
> > the steel tubing onto the elbow so that about 1" of tubing is into the
> > elbow. Run the rest of the steel tubing away from the hot parts and attach
> > your urethane tubing to it.
> >
> > Pressure test it! Close the valve closest to the bottle and pressure test
> > the thing with no oil in it. Mine would hold 100 psi, but usually
> > I used 65
> > - 70 psi. Then open the valve next to the bottle and see if the second
> > valve will hold. Spray a little soapy water on it and look for bubbles. If
> > everything looks OK, you are ready.
> > I would fill the bottle half full of oil and then pressurize it. It smoked
> > really hard until it got almost empty of oil, and then not so much smoke.
> > At that pressure, I could get about 5 minutes straight of smoke.
> > ( I think.
> > It's been years...)
> >
> > Corvis oil: that is an oil normally used to waterproof wooden
> > palettes, and
> > it is what the air show guys use. A number of years ago, the Red Baron
> > Pizza Stearmans were in town, and when their show was over, they still had
> > 5 gallons left in the bottom of a 55 gallon drum, and I was there
> > when they
> > were trying to decide how to get rid of it. (They use up a 55 gallon drum
> > during a two day show, and don't plan to haul the remnants around)
> > Where do you normally buy it? I have no idea. Good luck.
> >
> > I can guarantee that this system will smoke like crazy, from just off idle
> > to full throttle.
> >
> > It will also burn the paint off your muffler at certain spots, and it will
> > burn all the carbon out of your exhaust ports, and off the top of your
> > piston, and the bottom of the head. That means you need to BE CAREFUL:
> > Now you are really experimenting!
> > The first time you try it out, watch your EGT real close. It never hurt my
> > 277, the EGT stayed normal, but that proves nothing about what it might do
> > to your engine.
> > I would have no qualms about rigging this system up on my 532, I had
> > excellent reliability on my Rotax 277. I trust this will not hurt
> > anybody's
> > engine, but the 277 was the only engine tested, so nothing is certain. I
> > only know the system will work, not how your particular engine
> > will behave.
> >
> > Richard Pike
> > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <fly3g(at)earthlink.net> |
Ron,
About 2 years ago I made up some hub adapters for asuza rims and used a set of
Shimano hydrualic brakes on my FS2. They work great. I used a single master
to power both brakes and get great stopping power and a good feel. Really
lightweight too. Another FS2 pilot put two masters and the differential
braking action works well. I went with the hydraulics so I wouldn't have to
worry cable adjustments or routing the cables so the bends wouldn't be too
tight. Bled them on installation and haven't had any maintenance of the
system since. They look good too. Shimano uses a nice steel braided sheath
over the brake lines. I posted pictures on the matronics site, they should be
up in a day or two.
Gregg Waligroski
Kolb'n in Colorado again, yes!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Marshall MI fly In |
Does anyone know when the Marshall MI fly in is???
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
>
>
>Does Corvis oil contain carcinogens (cancer causing materials)?
>
>If your going to play "air show performer", think of the people your
>smoking, they may not enjoy the thrill as much as you.
>jerryb
Since Kingsport is the home of Eastman Chemical Corporation,
all of us in the local area assume that everything we eat, breath or see
contains cancer causing materials, so I am probably the wrong one to ask.
As far as playing "air show performer;" I never did that.
My best use for smoke on the Hummer was as an anti collision device.
When ATC was calling me as traffic for some myopic corporate type who
couldn't see me over his four foot wide X three foot high instrument panel,
(and was apparently about to acquire a Maxair nose ornament)
I would open the smoke valve and lay down a huge white plume.
"Yeah Approach, traffic in sight." Worked every time.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patty M" <pattym(at)lushen.com> |
George, while at oskosh flyin there was a box for sale in the barn that said
firestar wing kit for sale. I don't know anything more about it but maybe
someone on the list could fill you in. I saw a boom tube and some rib
material .
Phil MacGregor
Ultrastar
Marquette Mi
>
. Does
> anyone have a set of prints for the wings or know where I can find a
> set??? I have the 5" spar.
> George Murphy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hjalmar Johannesson" <hjalm(at)ismennt.is> |
KOLB FIRESTAR I WINGS (5 RIBS) FOR SALE!! .. BOTH WINGS .. LEFT WING
FOLDED .. RIGHT WING FOLDED .. RIGHT WING .. LEFT WING .. Kolb FireStar I
Wings (5 Ribs- ) in MINT CONDITION. Built new in late 1999 by Lite Speed
Aviation from new materials purchased from Kolb. Leading and Trailing Edge
tubes .035 wall thickness. Only 30 hours flight time and always hangared or
trailered. No damage. The leading and trailing edges are straight. There is
no fabric warp in the ailerons. Wings come with lift struts and full span
ailerons. This offer is for the WINGS ONLY!!! Replaced 5 rib wings with 7
rib wings for higher gross weight and bigger engine capability. More
pictures and info on request. Asking $4500. Contact Ken Korenek located
Arlington TEXAS USA. Telephone: 817-483-8054. -- Posted 4 June 2002 -- Show
here.
Bestu kvejur/Best regards
hjalmar
*************************
Hjlmar Jhannesson
Urarteig 6
740 Neskaupsta
Iceland
Tel: (354) 477 11 70
Mobil (354) 895 11 70
Email: mailto:hjalm(at)ismennt.is
URL http://hjalmar.ismennt.is/
**************************
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patty M
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: need wings
George, while at oskosh flyin there was a box for sale in the barn that said
firestar wing kit for sale. I don't know anything more about it but maybe
someone on the list could fill you in. I saw a boom tube and some rib
material .
Phil MacGregor
Ultrastar
Marquette Mi
>
. Does
> anyone have a set of prints for the wings or know where I can find a
> set??? I have the 5" spar.
> George Murphy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George" <geomurphy(at)mindspring.com> |
The wings that Ken Korenek look great and would save me a lot of rebuild
time, only one problem I think his price which is probably very reasonable
for the time spent on them is more than my whole airplane is worth. I just
need a copy of the original plans to repair the parts I will probably damage
when I remove the fabric. My wings have never been damaged in any way but
the fabric is in question after 15 years. I know the rivets will spin and
cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their wings
without damaging anything?
I am asking for opinions. If you had a good flying Kolb Firestar that was
15 years old, and does not have the Stitts silvercoat, would you recover It
with new fabric or just Duct tape it as necessary?
Original Message -----
From: "Hjalmar Johannesson" <hjalm(at)ismennt.is>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: need wings
>
> KOLB FIRESTAR I WINGS (5 RIBS) FOR SALE!! .. BOTH WINGS .. LEFT WING
> FOLDED .. RIGHT WING FOLDED .. RIGHT WING .. LEFT WING .. Kolb FireStar I
> Wings (5 Ribs- ) in MINT CONDITION. Built new in late 1999 by Lite Speed
> Aviation from new materials purchased from Kolb. Leading and Trailing Edge
> tubes .035 wall thickness. Only 30 hours flight time and always hangared
or
> trailered. No damage. The leading and trailing edges are straight. There
is
> no fabric warp in the ailerons. Wings come with lift struts and full span
> ailerons. This offer is for the WINGS ONLY!!! Replaced 5 rib wings with 7
> rib wings for higher gross weight and bigger engine capability. More
> pictures and info on request. Asking $4500. Contact Ken Korenek located
> Arlington TEXAS USA. Telephone: 817-483-8054. -- Posted 4 June 2002 --
Show
> here.
>
>
> Bestu kvejur/Best regards
> hjalmar
> *************************
> Hjlmar Jhannesson
> Urarteig 6
> 740 Neskaupsta
> Iceland
> Tel: (354) 477 11 70
> Mobil (354) 895 11 70
> Email: mailto:hjalm(at)ismennt.is
> URL http://hjalmar.ismennt.is/
> **************************
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patty M
> Sent: 8. gst 2002 14:34
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: need wings
>
>
> George, while at oskosh flyin there was a box for sale in the barn that
said
> firestar wing kit for sale. I don't know anything more about it but maybe
> someone on the list could fill you in. I saw a boom tube and some rib
> material .
>
> Phil MacGregor
> Ultrastar
> Marquette Mi
>
>
> >
> . Does
> > anyone have a set of prints for the wings or know where I can find a
> > set??? I have the 5" spar.
> > George Murphy
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> I know the rivets will spin and
> cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their wings
> without damaging anything?
George/Gents:
Yes, I recovered and repaired my MK III wing Spring 2001. I
have recovered other wings without problem. The fabric
rivets are alum with alum mandrels. Go to the archives and
you will find several messages I wrote on how to remove both
alum and SS rivets. The rivets hold pretty good if the trim
tape is left on the rivets while drilling. Use sharp bits.
Don't scrimp on them. Make a tool out of a piece of hack
saw blade. Grind a "V" shaped groove in the end of it.
Bevel (sharpen) one side only to shove under the edge of the
rivet lip. Have fun.
SS rivets same way, but take a rivet mandrel, hold with vise
grips, small ball peen hammer. Knock the mandrels out of
each rivet, then start drilling and holding as described
above. If the holes get a little oversize, the new rivets
will expand and grip quite well.
Replace any corroded rivets and/or tubes.
By all means get rid of the fabric without UV block.
Process new fabric with Polyspray.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Why not just cut the fabric off, check the wings out carefully, and if they
are structurally sound,. poke the old rivits out, cover the ribs with tape
to eliminate the rivit divots, recover the wings and rib stitch them? No
structural degradation from what you have now, and only cost you the price
of a recover.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>The wings that Ken Korenek look great and would save me a lot of rebuild
>time, only one problem I think his price which is probably very reasonable
>for the time spent on them is more than my whole airplane is worth. I just
>need a copy of the original plans to repair the parts I will probably damage
>when I remove the fabric. My wings have never been damaged in any way but
>the fabric is in question after 15 years. I know the rivets will spin and
>cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their wings
>without damaging anything?
>I am asking for opinions. If you had a good flying Kolb Firestar that was
>15 years old, and does not have the Stitts silvercoat, would you recover It
>with new fabric or just Duct tape it as necessary?
>Original Message -----
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
I had an EAA Technical Advisor do an inspection on my Kolb Mark II this
evening. One of the things he asked me was, "where are the controls stops?"
Turns out there aren't any. Nor did either of the ultralights I've owned.
The control limit was "as far as you can push the stick/pedal."
Does anyone have positive limit controls stops on their Kolb?
-Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Control stops |
In a message dated 8/8/02 11:00:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kfackler(at)ameritech.net writes:
> Does anyone have positive limit controls stops on their Kolb?
>
>
On the rudder only, on my Firestar II.
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Control stops |
My UltraStar had them. ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Control stops
>
> I had an EAA Technical Advisor do an inspection on my Kolb Mark II this
> evening. One of the things he asked me was, "where are the controls
stops?"
> Turns out there aren't any. Nor did either of the ultralights I've owned.
> The control limit was "as far as you can push the stick/pedal."
>
> Does anyone have positive limit controls stops on their Kolb?
>
> -Ken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Control stops |
MKIII has them on the ailerons and rudders. On the elevators you just run
out of throw, so you don't need them there.
Richard Pike
MKIIi N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>I had an EAA Technical Advisor do an inspection on my Kolb Mark II this
>evening. One of the things he asked me was, "where are the controls stops?"
>Turns out there aren't any. Nor did either of the ultralights I've owned.
>The control limit was "as far as you can push the stick/pedal."
>
>Does anyone have positive limit controls stops on their Kolb?
>
>-Ken
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Control stops |
On my FireStar II the drawings call for control stops on the rudder to stop
it from hitting the elevator. I also put aileron control stops on by
riveting a little fiber block to the top of the bell crank under the
fuselage tube. This may be completely different from your set up. With out
the aileron stops, the aileron tube would bottom out against the trailing
edge of the wing stressing the hinges.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thursday, August 08, 2002 10:02:53 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Control stops
I had an EAA Technical Advisor do an inspection on my Kolb Mark II this
evening. One of the things he asked me was, "where are the controls stops?"
Turns out there aren't any. Nor did either of the ultralights I've owned.
The control limit was "as far as you can push the stick/pedal."
Does anyone have positive limit controls stops on their Kolb?
-Ken
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
George,
I am in the process of recovering the wings on a 10 year old Mark II
Twinstar. These older model planes used a normal steel rivet for the aileron
hinges etc and are not hard to drill out. The current model planes use SS
rivets and are a pain in the rear. Only a very slight oversize, if any, of
the hole will normally occur when drilling them out and doesn't pose a
problem. The aluminum rivets that are used to secure the fabric to the ribs
are very easy to drill out. There shouldn't be much damage to the structure
from normal wear and tear in my opinion. Some of the braces in the wing may
need replacing, especially in the outboard section of the wing.
If your concerned about the structural integrity of the fabric on the main
wings and the tail section was covered at the same time and using the same
method, I would suggest you replace it also. I have seen fabric testers
advertised in different places that are supposed to be able to tell if the
fabric is good by using a punch test. I have no experience with these at
all, but would think that they are reliable as it is my understanding this
method is used on certified planes.
Good Luck,
John Cooley
FS II #1162 and rebuilding Twinstar Mark II
My wings have never been damaged in any way but
> the fabric is in question after 15 years. I know the rivets will spin and
> cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their wings
> without damaging anything?
> I am asking for opinions. If you had a good flying Kolb Firestar that
was
> 15 years old, and does not have the Stitts silvercoat, would you recover
It
> with new fabric or just Duct tape it as necessary?
> Original Message -----
> From: "Hjalmar Johannesson" <hjalm(at)ismennt.is>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | APilot(at)webtv.net (Vic Gibson) |
Subject: | Geo on a Mark III |
Just completed thrust testing. At 5000rpm with full pitch = 232lbs.
At 6000rpm with flat pitch = 238lbs. Does anyone know if that is enough
to fly a Kolb Mk III. Jeron at Raven says that I should be getting
closer to 330lbs. Vic Gibson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
I assume from your posting that you used some kind of a pull gage and that those
where the indications.
I am swaging here but it looks to me that *only* 16 pounds of additional thrust
out of 1K increase in RPM is way too low. Way way too low. If the engine is runing
properly (good combustion etc..) than it looks to me that you run out of
RPM before you run out of power. In other words I would increase the pitch on
the prop until the engine cannot exceed 6k rpm wot because of blade pitch bite.
This is the only way for you to have thrust as the limiter on your RPM, and
get max thrust at the same time.
Ron
>>>>>>>Just completed thrust testing. At 5000rpm with full pitch = 232lbs.
At 6000rpm with flat pitch = 238lbs. Does anyone know if that is enough
to fly a Kolb Mk III. Jeron at Raven says that I should be getting
closer to 330lbs. Vic Gibson<<<<<<<<<
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
I disagree on that one. Once you take the rivits out of that thin tube
there is no more strength left. The rivets will bring back a bit of the
strength. Find an old piece of that 5/16 tube , drill a hole in it and see
how easy it breaks, You will be shocked.
If the fabric is just old but in good condition don't worry about it.
Perhaps make a few inspection holes in the wing to check for inside damage
but other than that if you can't poke the dull end of a pencil through the
fabric it should be still good. Jim and Dondi will be happy to sell you a
few supplies to make the needed patches. If done right the patches can
become invisible.
Of course this would be my own rude and crude way of doing it. Others
may have other opinions.
>
>Why not just cut the fabric off, check the wings out carefully, and if they
>are structurally sound,. poke the old rivits out, cover the ribs with tape
>to eliminate the rivit divots, recover the wings and rib stitch them? No
>structural degradation from what you have now, and only cost you the price
>of a recover.
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >
> >The wings that Ken Korenek look great and would save me a lot of rebuild
> >time, only one problem I think his price which is probably very reasonable
> >for the time spent on them is more than my whole airplane is worth. I just
> >need a copy of the original plans to repair the parts I will probably damage
> >when I remove the fabric. My wings have never been damaged in any way but
> >the fabric is in question after 15 years. I know the rivets will spin and
> >cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their wings
> >without damaging anything?
> >I am asking for opinions. If you had a good flying Kolb Firestar that was
> >15 years old, and does not have the Stitts silvercoat, would you recover It
> >with new fabric or just Duct tape it as necessary?
> >Original Message -----
>
>
>---
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
To; Listers.
Does anyone have any suggestions on priming the 4130 chrome molly parts. I am at
the point where I have to attach some of those need some help in deciding which
primer I should use, and if I should paint right away or waite untill I am
done, and before covering?
Ron
Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Talk to Jim & Dondi about Poly Fiber's 2 part epoxy primer. It's very good
stuff.........I like it better than powder coating for several reasons. I
used the little "Pre-Val" sprayer from A/C Spruce to apply it, and it worked
like a charm. Good Stuff ! ! ! I used a little, portable sand blaster with
glass beads to clean the parts, and I've never seen a better way to get down
into the weld creases, etc and REALLY clean things. For heavy rust etc.,
use silica sand, but gently. Gogittum Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <kugelair(at)netscape.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Priming
>
> To; Listers.
>
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions on priming the 4130 chrome molly parts. I
am at the point where I have to attach some of those need some help in
deciding which primer I should use, and if I should paint right away or
waite untill I am done, and before covering?
>
> Ron
>
>
> Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only
$2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
An add-on thought.............if the fabric passes a punch test, but has
cracks in the paint, what about that "re-juvenator" that Poly Fiber sells to
soften & smooth older paint ?? Once again, ask Jim & Dondi.
Non-Painter Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: need wings
>
> I disagree on that one. Once you take the rivits out of that thin tube
> there is no more strength left. The rivets will bring back a bit of the
> strength. Find an old piece of that 5/16 tube , drill a hole in it and see
> how easy it breaks, You will be shocked.
> If the fabric is just old but in good condition don't worry about it.
> Perhaps make a few inspection holes in the wing to check for inside damage
> but other than that if you can't poke the dull end of a pencil through the
> fabric it should be still good. Jim and Dondi will be happy to sell you a
> few supplies to make the needed patches. If done right the patches can
> become invisible.
> Of course this would be my own rude and crude way of doing it. Others
> may have other opinions.
>
>
> >
> >Why not just cut the fabric off, check the wings out carefully, and if
they
> >are structurally sound,. poke the old rivits out, cover the ribs with
tape
> >to eliminate the rivit divots, recover the wings and rib stitch them? No
> >structural degradation from what you have now, and only cost you the
price
> >of a recover.
> >Richard Pike
> >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >The wings that Ken Korenek look great and would save me a lot of
rebuild
> > >time, only one problem I think his price which is probably very
reasonable
> > >for the time spent on them is more than my whole airplane is worth. I
just
> > >need a copy of the original plans to repair the parts I will probably
damage
> > >when I remove the fabric. My wings have never been damaged in any way
but
> > >the fabric is in question after 15 years. I know the rivets will spin
and
> > >cause the holes to be sorta oversized . Has anyone recovered their
wings
> > >without damaging anything?
> > >I am asking for opinions. If you had a good flying Kolb Firestar that
was
> > >15 years old, and does not have the Stitts silvercoat, would you
recover It
> > >with new fabric or just Duct tape it as necessary?
> > >Original Message -----
> >
> >
> >---
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> I disagree on that one. Once you take the rivits out of that thin tube
> there is no more strength left.
> If the fabric is just old but in good condition don't worry about it.
> Of course this would be my own rude and crude way of doing it. Others
> may have other opinions.
> Woody
Woody/Gents:
I agree with Woody. Recommend not leaving the rivets out of
holes. I make it a habit to put a rivet in "uh oh" holes in
anything that is structural or critical for flight.
However, I disagree with his recommended action for the
fabric. Individual indicated the fabric was 15 years old
and did not have an Ultraviolet Block. Even with the fabric
test with a certified fabric punch tester, I would go with
pulling fabric and recovering. Insuring that I applied all
necessary coats of Polybrush and Polyspray correctly.
I would also use fabric rivets to attach the fabric. I
personally think they do as good as, or better than rib
stitching. One reason is the fabric rivet is easier for an
inexperienced person to do successfully. Rib stitching that
is less than snug or done incorrectly (even correctly) can
be pulled loose in those inboard areas near the pusher prop
on a Kolb. I have shared in the past of a Sling Shot that
was rib stitched, did not hold and caused the owner a lot of
grief until he went back and used fabric rivets to secure
the loose fabric.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
Group,
Is there any problem with just drilling out the old rivit holes to the next
size up and using the next size up rivits before replacing hinges etc when
wings, ailrons, rudder etc and fabric has been removed for repair or refabric
and repaint? Would that take care of the wobble and slightly oversized hole
problems that result from a less than perfect drilling out of old rivits?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Does anyone have any suggestions on priming the 4130 chrome molly parts.
> Ron
Ron/Gents:
I always use Polyfiber Epoxy Chromate Primer. Parts primed
with it can be covered without painting. If you are gonna
paint it, it needs to be done soon, a couple of days at
most, after priming. Best yet, check the Polyfiber Manual
for specific instructions or the label on the can.
Of primary importance is prep of the 4130. Bead blasting is
a good way to clean and etch so the primer will have to
teeth to hold on. I have used phosphoric acid etch for many
years. Jim Miller, Polyfiber Expert, tells me I am wrong,
but I use it anyhow on 4130 and especially alum. Been using
it for 18 years on three different Kolbs with good success.
That is proof enough for me.
Don't heart much on this list about using tube seal.. I
also have used it since Ultrastar days in 1984. Just did
the repair work on my 1991 Mark III tail post. Cut out a
section to replace. Inside of tailpost was in good shape
dispite the fact that water had gotten in over the years.
However, the inside of the tailpost had had a liberal
injection of Stitts Tube Seal (probably called Polyfiber
Tube Seal) on several occassions over the years. Might add
that the quart of tube seal was purchased from Ron and Sue
Alexander of Alexander Airplane Company in Griffin, GA, in
1984. I still have enough to do a couple more airframes
from that same original quart.
If you don't tube seal it, 4130 will rust and you won't know
it until it fails. To me it is like flying polyester dacron
covered Kolb with no UV block. Can't tell by looking at it,
but sooner or later it will fail.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
>
>
> I disagree on that one. Once you take the rivits out of that thin tube
>there is no more strength left. The rivets will bring back a bit of the
>strength. Find an old piece of that 5/16 tube , drill a hole in it and see
>how easy it breaks, You will be shocked.
How does having rivets in a tube make it stronger?
It would be interesting to see if there is a measurable difference between
breaking a 5/16" tube with a rivet in it, and breaking one without. I
really don't think you would see much difference, other than possibly in
compression.
But you are totally correct that a 5/16" tube with a 1/8" hole in it is weak.
That is why my MKIII is rib stitched.
Richrad Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Group,
>
>Is there any problem with just drilling out the old rivit holes to the next
>size up and using the next size up rivits before replacing hinges etc when
>wings, ailrons, rudder etc and fabric has been removed for repair or refabric
>and repaint? Would that take care of the wobble and slightly oversized hole
>problems that result from a less than perfect drilling out of old rivits?
Rivets are designed to expand and fill up holes. Slightly large holes
from drilling out old rivets should not hurt.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> How does having rivets in a tube make it stronger?
Richard/Gang:
I don't think it makes it stronger, but probably not as
weak.
Can't prove it scientifically, but tube is stronger with the
hole filled with rivet than it is without. I look at it
like the perferation of a piece of paper. Easy to tear with
perferations, a little more difficult without.
> But you are totally correct that a 5/16" tube with a 1/8" hole in it is weak.
Right on.
> That is why my MKIII is rib stitched.
But is it a hole if it is filled with a very tight rivet?
I have had tubes fail in flight because they had 1/8 inch
holes drilled in them. Problem is, difficult to build an
airplane without drilling lotsa holes in them.
Have never had a problem with ribs and fabric rivets.
Guarantee, my ribs have been thoroughly tested on all three
of my Kolbs.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
My own feeling is that drilling larger holes in 5/16" tubing is going to
give a weaker grip, since there's less "shoulder" to hold the rivet. I
believe it'll pull out easier,and since I'm still enjoying an extended
vacation (in Vancouver, B.C., now), I'll invite one or more of you to put it
to the test. If you bend drilled 5/16" tubing, it will break...........with
or without a rivet in it. Remember the test I published a year or so ago,
with pictures, about repairing an ovalled hole ?? The epoxy filling made it
a little stronger, but not enuf for no never-mind. Thing is............the
ribs aren't flexing enuf to make none...........plenty strong enuf, so rivet
the fabric, or stitch it.........your choice. Tubing Buster Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rivits
>
> Group,
>
> Is there any problem with just drilling out the old rivit holes to the
next
> size up and using the next size up rivits before replacing hinges etc when
> wings, ailrons, rudder etc and fabric has been removed for repair or
refabric
> and repaint? Would that take care of the wobble and slightly oversized
hole
> problems that result from a less than perfect drilling out of old rivits?
>
> Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Is there any problem with just drilling out the old rivit holes to the next
> size up and using the next size up rivits before replacing hinges etc when
> wings, ailrons, rudder etc and fabric has been removed for repair or refabric
> and repaint?
Steve
Steve/Gang:
Not necessary to go to the next size unless the
builder/repairer is totally "ham fisted".
It is not that difficult to do. Must be patient and take
your time. I pulled fabric from my damaged left MK III wing
Spring 2001. Drilled out all fabric rivets, plus hundreds
of SS rivets in the flap and aileron hinges. Note: I make
my hinges longer than the plans call for, therefore even
more SS rivet to drill out. I drilled until I got tired.
Went to another requirement, then came back to rivet removal
when I felt like it. Eventually, it was done. No need for
any oversize rivets. With a rivet every .5 inches, it will
not degrade the strength of the airplane to have a screwed
up rivet occassionally.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
Thanks guys, next time I will use the techniques you have outlined - but a
while back I had removed the hinges on the rudder, elevators, and ailerons to
refabric and did not do the rivet drilling as pretty as I could do now that I
have more experience, so I went to the next size to avoid looseness from
occurring. Since I have already gone and done it, is there any problem that
anyone foresees that may develop?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Since I have already gone and done it, is there any
problem that
> anyone foresees that may develop?
>
> Steve
Steve/Gents:
Edge clearance is critical. By going to the next larger
size rivet on the hinges, it could create a weaker
condition. Don't know if it is a good idea to drill larger
holes in the rivets than called for. Larger holes weaken
the tubes more.
Did you also go for larger fabric rivets?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Aircraft Spruce sells a rivet removal tool. I bought one and would not be
without one especially if I were going to recover and repair a Kolb aircraft
At around $70.00 kind of expensive but I feel well worth it. It holds the
rivet from spinning while drilling out the body. Rib stitching is not
recommended on tube type ribs. Check with Jim or Dondi Miller on this.
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
Subject: | Cross-threaded spark plug |
I seem to have a cross-threated spark plug hole in my Rotax 503. The
plug goes in at a distinct angle and won't go in all the way. Is there
any fix for this, or am I (groan!) looking at a new head?
-Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cross-threaded spark plug |
There is a fix called a heli-coil where you drill out the plug hole and tap
it to fit the heli-coil. Insert the heli-coil and screw the spart plug into
it. If it were mine though, I would go with a new head. Don't know what they
cost but for piece of mind that's what I would do.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, August 10, 2002 08:16:55 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Cross-threaded spark plug
I seem to have a cross-threated spark plug hole in my Rotax 503. The
plug goes in at a distinct angle and won't go in all the way. Is there
any fix for this, or am I (groan!) looking at a new head?
-Ken
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: need wings
> An add-on thought.............if the fabric passes a punch test, but has
> cracks in the paint, what about that "re-juvenator" that Poly Fiber sells
to
> soften & smooth older paint ?? Once again, ask Jim & Dondi.
> Non-Painter Lar.
>
Hi all,
I used this method last year to repaint my MKIII wings after noticing I had
some paint cracks in the flaps .
The rejuvinator eliminated the cracks completely and now after a year and a
half and 85 hrs flying, it still looks good.
Frank Reynen MKIII /912/Lotus floats @795 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> The rejuvinator eliminated the cracks completely and now after a year and a
> half and 85 hrs flying, it still looks good.
>
> Frank Reynen MKIII /912/Lotus floats @795 hrs
Frank/Gents:
What kind of paint did you use the rejuvenator on? Polytone
or Aerothane?
Don't know if it can be used on aerothane.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
John,
I used it on Polytone
Frank
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: need wings
>
>
> > The rejuvinator eliminated the cracks completely and now after a year
and a
> > half and 85 hrs flying, it still looks good.
> >
> > Frank Reynen MKIII /912/Lotus floats @795 hrs
>
> Frank/Gents:
>
> What kind of paint did you use the rejuvenator on? Polytone
> or Aerothane?
>
> Don't know if it can be used on aerothane.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Cross-threaded spark plug |
>
>
>I seem to have a cross-threated spark plug hole in my Rotax 503. The
>plug goes in at a distinct angle and won't go in all the way. Is there
>any fix for this, or am I (groan!) looking at a new head?
>
>-Ken
Years ago I worked in a motorcycle shop, and there is a chance this head
can be saved. There is a tool called a spark plug hole chaser. It has
threads on it like a spark plug hole tap, and it is designed to clean up
the threads or cut the carbon off any threads where it has accumulated.
Take the head off. Very carefully start the chaser from the underside -
underside- of the head, be positive it is going in straight. If it is going
in straight, screw it in until it bottoms out. Keep it well lubricated with
oil during this process. If very much crud accumulates, back it up a bit,
clean the crud off, and continue.
After you get done, carefully examine the threads. If you have only had to
recut the first couple of threads, you will be OK. If you had to recut a
lot of them, get a new head.
The B8ES plugs are pretty long, and if only the first couple of threads in
the head are screwed up, you will have enough threads left to work OK.
After you get done, be sure the plugs will go to full torque. Use a good
torque wrench. Recheck the torque every few hours to be sure nothing is
loosening up. If there is any doubt about the success of the repair, get a
new head.
The only reason for getting a new head is because it is for aircraft use. I
have put helicoils in motorcycle heads for plug holes and never had any
(known) trouble with any of them.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
Thank you much I'll call them Monday. The glass bead blasting is a great idea and
I was already kinda thinking about it. Harbor Freight has a unit like that.
It could be usefull for many other things as well.
Ron
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
Subject: | anti rust foaming? |
Thank you, excellent advise as well. As I am sitting here thinking about it. The
thought of injecting expanding foam into those tubes is pinging in my mind.
anyone tried that?
It seems to me that it may seal those tubes airtight and replace all air in those
tubes. It also may change the acoustics of the airframe, which could be bad
or good. :-)
Ron
*********************
I always use Polyfiber Epoxy Chromate Primer. Parts primed
with it can be covered without painting. If you are gonna
paint it, it needs to be done soon, a couple of days at
most, after priming. Best yet, check the Polyfiber Manual
for specific instructions or the label on the can.
Of primary importance is prep of the 4130. Bead blasting is
a good way to clean and etch so the primer will have to
teeth to hold on. I have used phosphoric acid etch for many
years. Jim Miller, Polyfiber Expert, tells me I am wrong,
but I use it anyhow on 4130 and especially alum. Been using
it for 18 years on three different Kolbs with good success.
That is proof enough for me.
Don't heart much on this list about using tube seal.. I
also have used it since Ultrastar days in 1984. Just did
the repair work on my 1991 Mark III tail post. Cut out a
section to replace. Inside of tailpost was in good shape
dispite the fact that water had gotten in over the years.
However, the inside of the tailpost had had a liberal
injection of Stitts Tube Seal (probably called Polyfiber
Tube Seal) on several occassions over the years. Might add
that the quart of tube seal was purchased from Ron and Sue
Alexander of Alexander Airplane Company in Griffin, GA, in
1984. I still have enough to do a couple more airframes
from that same original quart.
If you don't tube seal it, 4130 will rust and you won't know
it until it fails. To me it is like flying polyester dacron
covered Kolb with no UV block. Can't tell by looking at it,
but sooner or later it will fail.
Take care,
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
The thought of injecting expanding foam into those tubes
is pinging in my mind. anyone tried that?
> Ron
Ron/Gents:
Tube seal has been used to seal and prevent rust in 4130
tubular airframes since day one. It is a tried and proven
method. If you want to get radical with your own method,
you should contact Steve in Turlock and Snuffy Smith in PA.
I bet you three could really cook up some good formulas.
hehehe :-)
Seriously, experimentation is fine to a certain extent. But
there are some processes and procedures that have been
developed over the long haul that aren't going to be
improved on, unless you wish to reinvent the wheel and spend
heaps of money in the process.
What looks like airtight welds on your fuselage will prove
otherwise once you have injected tubeseal. It will find any
pin holes that are there. I go down to my local vet and get
a large hypodermic needle and seringe. Dill either 3/32 or
1/8 holes in the tubes, inject the proper amount of tube
seal (indicated on the label for different size tubes), seal
the hole with a closed in alum pop rivet. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh,
peace of mind that the 4130 will not rust and allow my body
to fall through the airframe, in flight................
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
> you should contact Steve in Turlock and Snuffy Smith in PA.
> I bet you three could really cook up some good formulas.
> hehehe :-)
Heh John,
Watch it!!! I resemble that remark!!! hehehe ;o)
Maybe we could mix the foam with WD 40..........Hmmmmmmmm Watcha tink
Steve?
Don't achive!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Ron, --tube seal or linseed oil diluted with lacquer thinner, good idea.
Expanding foam, really bad idea. The cells break down and any
moisture getting in is wicked up and held like a sponge. (bad)
experience
is my source. -BB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
Steve
> > Well Kirk, Some see the Kolb as it is and ask "why?" - some see the Kolb
as
> > it could be and ask "why not?". I believe that you and I fall into the
> > latter group.
John
> never changed dimensions of airfoils, wing span, tail
> section;
Snuffy,
I didn't either! On the one wing. So what if I put the tail on the front.
It's my airplane! On a serious note. Did anybody ever come up with a good
solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in winter, out
of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube. .....
:o)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
> Did anybody ever come up with a good
> solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in winter, out
> of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube. .....
Kirk
Kirk/Guys:
That was also beat to death. Somebody, IIRC, sprayed foam
insulation into the end of the tailboom. Result was the
inside portion of foam didn't want to cure. I think it may
have confilicted with proper movement of cables also.
Check the archives. There foam insulation/tail boom/cold
air information in there.
My Mark III does not have that problem. Checked it out last
winter. Besides, if I closed off the tail boom the rats and
squirrels would get mad at me and eat my fabric.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: KITTY HAWK USA |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Ballenger" <ulpilot(at)cavtel.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: KITTY HAWK USA
thanks to Mr. Kolb
> and the Wright brothers for a wonderful Saturday morning flight.
>
> Jim Ballenger
> FS KXP 447
> Virgina Beach, VA
:o))))
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
>
> Steve
> > > Well Kirk, Some see the Kolb as it is and ask "why?" - some see the
Kolb
> as
> > > it could be and ask "why not?". I believe that you and I fall into
the
> > > latter group.
Steve ,
It's all a diversionary tatic by those Ex-military guys . You see,
"squirrels in the fuselage tube" is code talk for the latest technology
coming out of Hauck Brothers Skunk Works. I have inside info that they are
using small animals trained to run up and down the tube to adjust cg and
trim in flight. Clever but we're on to their plans. An escaped possum has
talked.............Snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <jimh474(at)velocityonline.net> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
Kirk:
Us ex-military Hauck boys work in the "Mole Hole". We don't tolerate skunks.
You are close on the CG theory, But we put a tread mill in the Tail Tube
which is connected to a generator that the varmints energize by running on
the tread mill. But we ain't saying what the generator powers.
:<)
Jim Hauck
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
Subject: | Anti rust foaming! |
Well I have used the expanding foam for a few years and I can assure anyone that
the 3x expanding foam will not absorb moisture (infact its used as a moisture
block if I remember the instructions correctly), and as far as i can tell won't
break down from oil and any other chemical known to man (if you get it on
you or your cloths, you will never get it off except maybe Aceton or MEK). As
I have had time to ponder today while flying on a charter, I figured if I place
those tubes in oven (with the exahust fan on, only god knows what kinda crapazui
is inside of those tubes) let it bake for about 35 minutes at 350f let it
cool down to about 150f and inject it full of triple expanding foam. right off
I cannot think of a down side to it,,, right off!!!! I am fairly certain that
feeling a tube that conducts cold air in winter (not a factor in Arizona) would
stop any such cold air from sucking heat out of the cabin. Heck we are already
exploiting this idea. :-)
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
Subject: | Criters in the tubes. |
Hahahahaha
Right!
Here it would be the crickets!!! on second thought maybe I would finally be able
to hear the engine if I getem outta there!
***************
My Mark III does not have that problem. Checked it out last
winter. Besides, if I closed off the tail boom the rats and
squirrels would get mad at me and eat my fabric.
john h
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Arlyn G. Moen" <amoen(at)ndak.net> |
Went flying tonight with my ultrastar. It still impresses me...
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cross-threaded spark plug |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Ken and Ron,
There was a Firestar owner that crossthreaded the front head and put in a
heli-coil. After that he was complaining about the EGT running high on
that cylinder. He ended up getting a new head.
You might be able to save it using '420ldPoops' method. Good Luck.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
writes:
>
> There is a fix called a heli-coil where you drill out the plug hole
> and tap
> it to fit the heli-coil. Insert the heli-coil and screw the spart
> plug into
> it. If it were mine though, I would go with a new head. Don't know
> what they
> cost but for piece of mind that's what I would do.
>
> Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cross-threaded spark plug |
If you haven't butchered the threads aren't to bad, you might be able to
run a spark plug thread chaser of the proper size in the hole to straighten
them out. There is some risk in doing so. If you have cut up the threads
to much the plug may strip out the remaining threads and may do it while
the engine is being flown. A Heli-Coil can be done and probably would be
the recommended repair out side of actual replacement of the head.
Last you might contact the gentleman listed below. Tom repairs Rotax's and
is one of the best in the business. He's a straight shooter. He may have
a good used head off a engine taken out of service or provide a new one at
a fare price.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
mailto:olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com
www.buyitsellitfixit.com/rotax.htm
Good luck,
jerryb
>
>I seem to have a cross-threated spark plug hole in my Rotax 503. The
>plug goes in at a distinct angle and won't go in all the way. Is there
>any fix for this, or am I (groan!) looking at a new head?
>
>-Ken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Make sure you get a compressor with RESERVE capacity to handle that blaster.
I borrowed one from work, along with the blaster, and it wasn't quite up to
the task. It worked, but I had to go in fits & starts, to give it time to
build pressure in the tank between blasts. Frustrating, and the price
difference isn't very much............get the good one. Also, use a ground
sheet, or similar to catch the beads...........not so much for re-use, as
for clean-up. Makes it a LOT easier. Been There Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <kugelair(at)netscape.net>
>
> Thank you much I'll call them Monday. The glass bead blasting is a great
idea and I was already kinda thinking about it. Harbor Freight has a unit
like that. It could be usefull for many other things as well.
>
> Ron
>
> Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only
$2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
As usual, you're right on the money, Bob. This triggered the memory of my
old '62, 19' Glastron runabout. Original floor rotted out & broke loose in
heavy seas off Cape Flattery in '89. (It were a fun & interesting (??) trip
back - all 25+ miles of it from Swiftsure Bank to Neah Bay, in heavy seas,
heavy cross chop, incoming wind, outgoing tide, and a "rubber" floor.)
Completely rebuilt it, and filled it with Coast Guard approved 2 part
urethane expanding foam. Guess I should build another web
page............took lots of pics of the procedure, and several knowledgable
people complimented me on the job. Anyhow..........even tho' I completely
encapsulated everything with marine plywood & epoxy, somehow, somewhere,
water got in, and that "waterproof" foam soaked up a couple hundred pounds
of salt water. Opened it up, and it WOULD NOT dry out. Never did figure
out a good answer to that one. Far as I know, it's still going strong.
Again, Been There Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bean" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: tubes
>
> Ron, --tube seal or linseed oil diluted with lacquer thinner, good idea.
>
> Expanding foam, really bad idea. The cells break down and any
> moisture getting in is wicked up and held like a sponge. (bad)
> experience
> is my source. -BB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
Ya know, John, you just gave me a thought..........and it didn't split my
skull ! ! ! Had a little dog for a short time, years ago, that liked to
chew on things...........including my refrigerator power cord. She never
again even sniffed at a wire. Once burnt.............! ! ! Maybe you could
install a "dummy" cord in the tail boom this winter for the rats to nibble
on, before they get to the good stuff. If it were plugged into 110
VAC..............??? Might be interesting. Sadist Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: anti rust foaming?
>
>
> > Did anybody ever come up with a good
> > solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in winter,
out
> > of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube.
.....
> Kirk
>
> Kirk/Guys:
>
> That was also beat to death. Somebody, IIRC, sprayed foam
> insulation into the end of the tailboom. Result was the
> inside portion of foam didn't want to cure. I think it may
> have confilicted with proper movement of cables also.
>
> Check the archives. There foam insulation/tail boom/cold
> air information in there.
>
> My Mark III does not have that problem. Checked it out last
> winter. Besides, if I closed off the tail boom the rats and
> squirrels would get mad at me and eat my fabric.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
Prob'ly to power the B.S. wheel. nerk nerk Do not
Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: <jimh474(at)velocityonline.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: anti rust foaming?
>
> Kirk:
>
> Us ex-military Hauck boys work in the "Mole Hole". We don't tolerate
skunks.
>
> You are close on the CG theory, But we put a tread mill in the Tail Tube
> which is connected to a generator that the varmints energize by running on
> the tread mill. But we ain't saying what the generator powers.
> :<)
>
> Jim Hauck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
Well in regards to the compressor I am already bracing for agony. I bought one
on sale (Wall Mart) a few years back, and you are right about fits and starts.
I'll try it out tomorrow and see just how bad it is. I can always go and beg for
a bigger one from the guys next door, but thats last resort, as it starts a
chain of reciprocating transactions, my O ring kit will attest to. Its mostly
gone and as of yet I used none.
**********
>Make sure you get a compressor with RESERVE capacity to handle that blaster.
>I borrowed one from work, along with the blaster, and it wasn't quite up to
>the task. It worked, but I had to go in fits & starts, to give it time to
>build pressure in the tank between blasts. Frustrating, and the price
>difference isn't very much............get the good one. Also, use a ground
>sheet, or similar to catch the beads...........not so much for re-use, as
>for clean-up. Makes it a LOT easier. Been There Lar.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <kugelair(at)netscape.net>
>To:
>
>
>>
>> Thank you much I'll call them Monday. The glass bead blasting is a great
>idea and I was already kinda thinking about it. Harbor Freight has a unit
>like that. It could be usefull for many other things as well.
>>
>> Ron
>>
>> Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only
>$2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/
>>
>>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net> |
Subject: | Cross-threaded spark plug |
I can vouch for Tom's expertise. He repaired a cross threaded 503 head for
me. Used something a little different than a helicoil, works perfectly, no
leaks or other problems.
Dave Rains
-----Original Message-----
From: jerryb [SMTP:ulflyer(at)airmail.net]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Cross-threaded spark plug
If you haven't butchered the threads aren't to bad, you might be able to
run a spark plug thread chaser of the proper size in the hole to straighten
them out. There is some risk in doing so. If you have cut up the threads
to much the plug may strip out the remaining threads and may do it while
the engine is being flown. A Heli-Coil can be done and probably would be
the recommended repair out side of actual replacement of the head.
Last you might contact the gentleman listed below. Tom repairs Rotax's and
is one of the best in the business. He's a straight shooter. He may have
a good used head off a engine taken out of service or provide a new one at
a fare price.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
mailto:olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com
www.buyitsellitfixit.com/rotax.htm
Good luck,
jerryb
>
>I seem to have a cross-threated spark plug hole in my Rotax 503. The
>plug goes in at a distinct angle and won't go in all the way. Is there
>any fix for this, or am I (groan!) looking at a new head?
>
>-Ken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Cockpit critters |
Seems like a pet snake may be in order........A well fed snake is a
happy snake............Snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DCREECH3(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Ignition failure |
In the air yesterday my tach began showing about half the actual engine RPM,
e.g. 2500 instead of 5000, but still responsive to throttle changes. Upon
landing I discovered that the engine was running on one ignition. (It's a
Rotax 503 with dual CDI ignition; the tach is a mini digital tach with a
pickup wire that wraps around a sparkplug lead.)
Question: does the behavior of the tach have any diagnostic significance, as
far as pointing to what specifically is wrong? Any troubleshooting tips
would be appreciated. Thanks.
Lee in Ky
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Criters in the tubes. |
>
>***************
>My Mark III does not have that problem. Checked it out last
>winter. Besides, if I closed off the tail boom the rats and
>squirrels would get mad at me and eat my fabric.
>
>john h
Ya John, they would. They wouldn't be able to run out and get food so they
would be forced live by eating the insulation off your wires. :8
)
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
A little more than a year ago, Mister Hauck was having gnawing pains in
the area of his Kolb. Many nostrums (nostrii? nostrils?) were broached,
among which was my suggestion to put the tail wheel on a brick--or
something similar--set in a pan of Clorox. I was immediately reminded
(not by John) that Clorox was hydrochloric acid and would seriously
corrode aluminum in short order. My reply was that Clorox is not HCL,
but contains weak hypochlorous acid.
To substantiate my claim that household bleach would not cause much if
any corrosion of AL, I bought a frozen chicken pot pie, heated and ate
it, leaving a nice very thin pan which I filled with bleach. Left it out
in the barn (similar conditions of hangar) with a scrap of old C172
elevator skin--0.025 AL.
It's been there more than a year, with periodic refills of bleach, due
to evaporation and possible a small drink by Resident Rat. The pan has
not been affected except for a light grey discoloration. The scrap of
0.025 still mics out at 0.027 due to one side previously zinc
chromated--and no pitting.
Conclusion: I doubt that bleach will seriously corrode our dainty
vehicles.
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gilan" <gilan(at)gate.net> |
well I had some very diluted household bleach destroy a office water cooler.
I wanted to clean the inside of an office water cooler. The kind you put a 5
gallon water bottle on top of. Well I put just a small amount of bleach in
the remaining water and let it sit. I forgot about it for 2 weeks and the
reason I remembered to go clean it up is because holes were eaten through
the metal container and water started leaking on the floor. I used plain old
Clorox in some water and it was a powerful acid to my water cooler. It might
not hurt aluminum but it will eat steal like butter. I'll send you pictures
if you want to see the holes. I patched the steal tank and the cooler still
works but I'll never leave bleach in any metal container again.
Talk to you later
http://www.mitchellwing.com
Join "The Ultralight & Experimental Aircraft SiteRing"
http://pub27.bravenet.com/sitering/nav.php?usernum=2286862090&action=join&si
teid=38879
Gator's annual Fly-in
http://www.mitchellwing.com/flying_gators_annual_fly.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of bob n
Subject:
A little more than a year ago, Mister Hauck was having gnawing pains in
the area of his Kolb. Many nostrums (nostrii? nostrils?) were broached,
among which was my suggestion to put the tail wheel on a brick--or
something similar--set in a pan of Clorox. I was immediately reminded
(not by John) that Clorox was hydrochloric acid and would seriously
corrode aluminum in short order. My reply was that Clorox is not HCL,
but contains weak hypochlorous acid.
To substantiate my claim that household bleach would not cause much if
any corrosion of AL, I bought a frozen chicken pot pie, heated and ate
it, leaving a nice very thin pan which I filled with bleach. Left it out
in the barn (similar conditions of hangar) with a scrap of old C172
elevator skin--0.025 AL.
It's been there more than a year, with periodic refills of bleach, due
to evaporation and possible a small drink by Resident Rat. The pan has
not been affected except for a light grey discoloration. The scrap of
0.025 still mics out at 0.027 due to one side previously zinc
chromated--and no pitting.
Conclusion: I doubt that bleach will seriously corrode our dainty
vehicles.
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
You know that got me thinking. Why doncha add a metal screw or better yet a s/s
pop rivet. Just sit the pop rivet on top of that 2024 aluminum piece. I am suspecting
that you have all the ingridients except the Anod (or is the Cathod)
I always mix those two up.
Anyway to make your experiment more life like you need two dismilar metals, and
a pop rivet (or is it rivit,, Southern like) is what we got on our birds.
If chlorox is really corrosive you can tell us in about 1 week if you have seen
any corrosion. :-)
Ron
bob n wrote:
>
>A little more than a year ago, Mister Hauck was having gnawing pains in
>the area of his Kolb. Many nostrums (nostrii? nostrils?) were broached,
>among which was my suggestion to put the tail wheel on a brick--or
>something similar--set in a pan of Clorox. I was immediately reminded
>(not by John) that Clorox was hydrochloric acid and would seriously
>corrode aluminum in short order. My reply was that Clorox is not HCL,
>but contains weak hypochlorous acid.
>
>To substantiate my claim that household bleach would not cause much if
>any corrosion of AL, I bought a frozen chicken pot pie, heated and ate
>it, leaving a nice very thin pan which I filled with bleach. Left it out
>in the barn (similar conditions of hangar) with a scrap of old C172
>elevator skin--0.025 AL.
>
>It's been there more than a year, with periodic refills of bleach, due
>to evaporation and possible a small drink by Resident Rat. The pan has
>not been affected except for a light grey discoloration. The scrap of
>0.025 still mics out at 0.027 due to one side previously zinc
>chromated--and no pitting.
>
>Conclusion: I doubt that bleach will seriously corrode our dainty
>vehicles.
>
>Bob N.
>
>http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
For what it's worth..........I've used a Sears diaphragm (dry)
compressor for my blasting & priming and had to rebuild it twice. Next
time it goes I'll get a piston type and turn the old unit into a
portable air tank.
Rex Rodebush
Well in regards to the compressor I am already bracing for agony. I
bought one on sale (Wall Mart) a few years back, and you are right about
fits and starts.
I'll try it out tomorrow and see just how bad it is. I can always go and
beg for a bigger one from the guys next door, but thats last resort, as
it starts a chain of reciprocating transactions, my O ring kit will
attest to. Its mostly gone and as of yet I used none.
**********
>Make sure you get a compressor with RESERVE capacity to handle that
blaster.
>I borrowed one from work, along with the blaster, and it wasn't quite
up to
>the task. It worked, but I had to go in fits & starts, to give it time
to
>build pressure in the tank between blasts. Frustrating, and the price
>difference isn't very much............get the good one. Also, use a
ground
>sheet, or similar to catch the beads...........not so much for re
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel and bleach |
Wal, ol' John had all these varmints a-gnawin' on his wiring. One of the
ways the critters used to enter was up the tail wheel and into the
tube/lunchroom. If bricks aren't available, most any fairly solid three
dimensional object would do. A more complete explanation: most critters
don't like to go skinny-dippin in nasty stuff, like Clorox, which they
would do in transversing from rim of pan to brick/rock/et ceteras.
As far as adding other metals that differ to produce a cathodic
reaction--that is a different chemical process than just the "eatin"
away thing. And indeed bleach may "attack" steel more vigorously than
aluminum. The original warning dealt with aluminum--"... fumes from
Clorox will eat aluminum..."
Think John has mostly got a fix on the critters, so all the foregoing is
just an academic(?) exercise.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Dennis Kirby ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dennis Kirby
Subject: No-windshield Mark-III
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil.08.11.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Gregg Waligroski ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Gregg Waligroski
Subject: Disc Brakes on Kolb Firestar
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/fly3g@earthlink.net.08.11.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
Hello fellow flyers, this is not kolb related so do not
read on if your a golfer!!! i just saw the blimp fly over
the house and being their holding the pga here next week i
will see alot of action around here being that i'am only 3
miles from the golf course in chaska. i may be able to get a
shot of the blimp or better yet, Tiger woods, if they let me
get that close, i'am checking into flying restrictions.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
two cylinders are still alive!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
Subject: | Bugs and Bleach, and a Kolb! |
Maybe the critters have dirty feet.
>>I've tried, but I can not come up with a situation where having the
tailwheel resting in a pond of bleach would be desirable...<<<
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
If you ever have to repair a tube by welding, will the foam present a
problem?
********************
No not at all. The foam will vaporize. I don't even think it will catch on fire.
I tried to light some up, back when I found out just how nasty it is. It didn't
even want to burn well.
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Subject: | photo share of Mk111 ???? |
>
>For what it's worth..........I've used a Sears diaphragm (dry)
>compressor for my blasting & priming and had to rebuild it twice. Next
>time it goes I'll get a piston type and turn the old unit into a
>portable air tank.
>
>Rex Rodebush
>
>
>Well in regards to the compressor I am already bracing for agony. I
>bought one on sale (Wall Mart) a few years back, and you are right about
>fits and starts.
>I'll try it out tomorrow and see just how bad it is. I can always go and
>beg for a bigger one from the guys next door, but thats last resort, as
>it starts a chain of reciprocating transactions, my O ring kit will
>attest to. Its mostly gone and as of yet I used none.
>
>**********
> >Make sure you get a compressor with RESERVE capacity to handle that
>blaster.
> >I borrowed one from work, along with the blaster, and it wasn't quite
>up to
> >the task. It worked, but I had to go in fits & starts, to give it time
>to
> >build pressure in the tank between blasts. Frustrating, and the price
> >difference isn't very much............get the good one. Also, use a
>ground
> >sheet, or similar to catch the beads...........not so much for re
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Subject: | photo share of Mk111 ???? |
Oooops hit the wrong button. The photo share claiming to be a Mk111 with
out a windshield looks like a Twinstar to me
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Had the same thing here last month for the senior PGA He cruised up and
down my runway at 500 ft all day.
>
> Hello fellow flyers, this is not kolb related so do not
>read on if your a golfer!!! i just saw the blimp fly over
>the house and being their holding the pga here next week i
>will see alot of action around here being that i'am only 3
>miles from the golf course in chaska. i may be able to get a
>shot of the blimp or better yet, Tiger woods, if they let me
>get that close, i'am checking into flying restrictions.
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
> two cylinders are still alive!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Don't breath the fumes from the foam - depending what the foam is made it
can be really bad for you. Doesn't take a lot.
jerryb
>
>If you ever have to repair a tube by welding, will the foam present a
>problem?
>********************
>
>No not at all. The foam will vaporize. I don't even think it will catch on
>fire. I tried to light some up, back when I found out just how nasty it
>is. It didn't even want to burn well.
>
>Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay only
>$2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cross-threaded spark plug |
About 20 years ago I had a spark plug pop out of the engine on my Volks.
bug. Took the threads with it. The local Volks. shop tapped in a helicoil,
and the new plug threaded right in. They didn't even have to remove the
engine from the car. If I remember correctly, it cost me about $40.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Our southern Ontario pig roast went very well last weekend.10 Aircraft
dropped in and only one was factory iron. Kolb was represented by 2
aircraft.Andy had his mk 111 and I trailered my Thunderbird in. I was able
to give 4 people their first flights in an airplane and list member Warren
Barnscomb his first ride in a Mk111. Bill Futrell (Thumb) and the missus
were there also with photos of his beautifull mk111 extra. I gotta get out
and see that one. 300 other people showed up and kept the party going to
after midnight. Hey we are not teenagers anymore, midnight is late for me
:) Hopefully this will become an annual event again. Judging from the
reaction of the people it will be. Hope to see more of you there next year.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
I was the one that put spray foam in the fuselage tube. I used a product
called Tuff Stuff. I wasn't real careful about how much I sprayed in. On
the bottom it filled the tube for over a foot but only a few inches on
top. It took over a week to cure and when it did it grabbed on to the
lower elevator cable big time. I had a tough time freeing up the lower
elevator cable. Now that its done I have the fuselage tube filled except
were the cables go thru. There is now only minimal air flow through the
fuselage tube and the mice that once visited my airplane do so no
longer. I don't recommend this method. When I was done I pulled the
cables back and forth so that I could inspect the full length of the
cables for damage without pulling the swaged ends thru the foam. I
didn't find any damage but I felt better.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
<<< Did anybody ever come up with a good
solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in
winter, out
of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube.
.....
:o)>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Special Discount Offer for Aviation Tools |
Scott Perkins wrote:
Here is a family run aviation tools operation that may have
some attractive deals ? ? ? check em out and see. I just said
I would be glad to forward info if they had some good deals.
Basically, go to http://www.planetools.com2 and complete the
customer survey.
In the last note section type that you were referred by Scott Perkins
and that you are entitled to a 20% discount.
... makes it look like I'm getting kickback ... I swear I'm not : )
their email address is mailto:planetools(at)cox.net
Here is the quote from message sent to me:
> We have high-quality industrial tools available at 20% discount for your
> organization. We have made it easy for you to receive your discount on
> any purchases. Instructions are at the end of this letter.
>
> Our inventory includes new, reconditioned and excellent used aircraft
> tools including:
>
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> * Drills, Bits, Reamers and Taps
> * Magnavon Countersink Cages and Countersink Bits
> * Nut Runners and Wedgelock Guns
> * Bucking Bars
> * Quick Change 1/4-28 Chucks and Bits
> * Riveters Tape
> * Torque Wrenches
> * Weldon Deburr Bits
> * 1/4-28 Angle Drills
> * Hi Loc Pliers
>
> Our new rivet guns are available in special configurations and may be
> uniquely identified to you. Reconditioned tools are as good as new. Used
> tools are in excellent condition and will perform as good as new. You
> will realize a significant savings when purchasing our high quality
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>
> We are adding new items daily. Our upcoming new hand tool lines include
> Proto, Armstrong and other high quality aviation tools.
>
> Here are a few examples:
>
> * Isham's New Lifetime Warranty Rivet Gun, Your choice of "Stubby",
> 200A, 300A or 400A -- Reg. $299.95, Our Price $224.95, After
> Discount $179.96
> * New 3X Taylor Rivet Gun -- Reg. $239.95, Our Price $184.95, After
> Discount $147.96
> * New T88881B Palm Air Drill -- Reg. $145.95, Our Price $119.95,
> After Discount $95.96
> * New Rivnut Puller -- Our Price $99.95, After Discount $79.96
> * Used Countersink in New Condition -- Magnavon #2164 -- Reg.
> $67.03, Our Price $29.95, After Discount $23.96
> * Used Magnavon 1330-20-28 Reversible Pancake -- Reg. $149.95, Our
> Price $89.95, After Discount $71.96
>
> Here's how you sign up:1. Go to our web site at
> http://www.planetools.com2. Complete the customer survey. In the last
> note section type that you were referred by Scott Perkins
> and that you are entitled to a 20% discount.3. Ignore the message you
> will receive after completing the survey as the survey offer is for a 5%
> discount through the month of August. You will receive a separate email
> from us with a customer number. We will code your customer account so
> you continue to receive the 20% discount on any purchases from our
> website. The discount applies to everything -- even sale items.
> You
> will not be added to any abusive email list; however, we may notify you
> from time-to-time as we add new product lines you may be interested
> in. We want to be your premier tool supplier. If you have special needs
> that are not yet listed on our site simply drop us an email and we will
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> experienced mechanics in building, modification, maintenance and repair
> from light general aviation aircraft to commercial jets.
> Thank you very much.
>
> The Isham's (Brad, Shaun and Shane)316-755-0713
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
>
> I was the one that put spray foam in the fuselage tube. I used a product
> called Tuff Stuff. I wasn't real careful about how much I sprayed in. On
> the bottom it filled the tube for over a foot but only a few inches on
> top. It took over a week to cure and when it did it grabbed on to the
> lower elevator cable big time. I had a tough time freeing up the lower
> elevator cable. Now that its done I have the fuselage tube filled except
> were the cables go thru. There is now only minimal air flow through the
> fuselage tube and the mice that once visited my airplane do so no
> longer. I don't recommend this method. When I was done I pulled the
> cables back and forth so that I could inspect the full length of the
> cables for damage without pulling the swaged ends thru the foam. I
> didn't find any damage but I felt better.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIII
Thanks Rick,
I won't use that stuff then. Know I'll need something though in these
cold Michigan winters. I plan on doing a lot of winter flying back and forth
to Saginaw Bay for ice fishing. We have some thick foam here in the plant
that is very tough. Different than standard styrofoam. May try a block of
that glued in with ferrels for the cables to ride in. ..........Snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
Sounds like a good idea. Never thought of using ferrels they should work
well. If you could put two of these in properly spaced you might be able
to eliminate that irritating cable to tube slapping that you get when
taxiing.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> snuffy(at)usol.com 08/12/02 11:11AM >>>
>
> I was the one that put spray foam in the fuselage tube. I used a
product
> called Tuff Stuff. I wasn't real careful about how much I sprayed in.
On
> the bottom it filled the tube for over a foot but only a few inches
on
> top. It took over a week to cure and when it did it grabbed on to
the
> lower elevator cable big time. I had a tough time freeing up the
lower
> elevator cable. Now that its done I have the fuselage tube filled
except
> were the cables go thru. There is now only minimal air flow through
the
> fuselage tube and the mice that once visited my airplane do so no
> longer. I don't recommend this method. When I was done I pulled
the
> cables back and forth so that I could inspect the full length of the
> cables for damage without pulling the swaged ends thru the foam. I
> didn't find any damage but I felt better.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIII
Thanks Rick,
I won't use that stuff then. Know I'll need something though in
these
cold Michigan winters. I plan on doing a lot of winter flying back and
forth
to Saginaw Bay for ice fishing. We have some thick foam here in the
plant
that is very tough. Different than standard styrofoam. May try a block
of
that glued in with ferrels for the cables to ride in. ..........Snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
Hi Rick.
I am some ways from putting an engine in my project but, considering all the alternatives
it seems like a VW motor in my M3E is a strong possibility. Can you
tell me more about your installation. Like where did you get it, how much it
cost, the engine mounts for it.... If you have any photo's that you want to share
I would like to look at them. Oh yeah how much HP does it put out, and if
have done a flying comparison with anyone else with the same type Kolb. I live
at about 5000ft altitude and density altitude is normally from 5500ft to 8000ft
sometimes higher. For me the +Hp+ is a serious consideration.
thanks
Ron
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
>
> Sounds like a good idea. Never thought of using ferrels they should work
> well. If you could put two of these in properly spaced you might be able
> to eliminate that irritating cable to tube slapping that you get when
> taxiing.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIII
Yes that too! If you're ever up my way stop in and I'll show you a piece of
the foam I'm going to use. It has a kind of rubbery texture. Very tough and
light. If you compress it , it springs back. Don't know what it's called
though. We get it with sensitive electronic equipment as a shipping cushion.
Quite different from other foams. ..........snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
I have a web site were I have details on my engine and a high resolution
photo of my engine. Check the builders sites on the New Kolb site for
the address I don't remember it right now. The mount I have is a good 5
lbs. too heavy so there are better ideas. Larry Borne and Julian Waren
have other ideas and I think they may have a lighter solution.
As for power there are many options for the VW engine. I think the
easyest way of compensating for your high density altitude would be to
select a higher compression ratio. Most VW builders for airplanes like a
low 7.5 to 8 to one compression for heat and longevity reasons. It would
seem that you could simply increase the compression and have a engine
that thinks it is close to sea level.
I'm also still sorting out my engine prop combination because of
limited performance. I don't know if anyone has calculations or rules to
share but I'm checking on a higher reduction ratio for my VW. As I'm
trying to fly with heaver passengers I have had to decrease the pitch on
my prop for higher engine RPMs (power). I'm now turning 3600-3700 with
full power climb at 50-55 MPH. The problem is that at cruse I'm turning
3600 and only going 70. I think my redrive manufacturer makes a 1.91 to
1 instead of my 1.6 to one. My idea is that my prop is too big and I can
fix my speed range problem by turning it at lower RPMs at a higher
pitch.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> kugelair(at)netscape.net 08/12/02 12:14PM >>>
Hi Rick.
I am some ways from putting an engine in my project but, considering
all the alternatives it seems like a VW motor in my M3E is a strong
possibility. Can you tell me more about your installation. Like where
did you get it, how much it cost, the engine mounts for it.... If you
have any photo's that you want to share I would like to look at them. Oh
yeah how much HP does it put out, and if have done a flying comparison
with anyone else with the same type Kolb. I live at about 5000ft
altitude and density altitude is normally from 5500ft to 8000ft
sometimes higher. For me the +Hp+ is a serious consideration.
thanks
Ron
Pre-order the NEW Netscape 7.0 browser. Reserve your FREE CD and pay
only $2.99 shipping and handling. http://cd.netscape.com/promo_one/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
Sounds a lot like the foam they use for earplugs. I wonder if that company
could supply larger chunks for this sort of purpose?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: anti rust foaming?
>
>
> >
> > Sounds like a good idea. Never thought of using ferrels they should work
> > well. If you could put two of these in properly spaced you might be able
> > to eliminate that irritating cable to tube slapping that you get when
> > taxiing.
> >
> > Rick Neilsen
> > Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
> Yes that too! If you're ever up my way stop in and I'll show you a piece
of
> the foam I'm going to use. It has a kind of rubbery texture. Very tough
and
> light. If you compress it , it springs back. Don't know what it's called
> though. We get it with sensitive electronic equipment as a shipping
cushion.
> Quite different from other foams. ..........snuffy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: anti rust foaming?
> Sounds a lot like the foam they use for earplugs. I wonder if that company
> could supply larger chunks for this sort of purpose?
No, it's not as soft as earplug foam. The air pockets are larger also. I
have one chunk at work that is about 30" x 30" x 2' thick. You could
support it between blocks and sit on it. It would bend considerably but not
break. Don't know what fuel might do to it. Maybe I'll go out an pour some
gas on some and see. .....snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: anti rust foaming? |
>
> Snuffy/Gang:
>
> While you are pouring gas on the foam, check it out for
> caustic fumes and smoke. This seems to have killed a lot of
> folks in post crash fires, in cockpit fires, etc. Some of
> it was from insulation used on wiring, some on seat
> cushions.
>
> This ought to keep you busy for a while. At least you got
> off the fuel tank subject. :-)
>
> john h
Good idea John! I'll take a piece and do it at work where they have a
sniffer that detects every fume known to man and Bubba. Got a whole bunch
of other neat stuff there I can pour on it too. Don't want to be
recommending some product to the list and then have somebody accuse me of
crossing over to the other side of the law in a rush to judgement. Must be
very careful about what you say here as judgement can sometimes be harsh and
completely off base.........snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Special Discount Offer for Aviation Tools |
I went to the site. One thing I found was they do not list their business
address or a phone number, only an email address. I did finely find a
address under the links menu item. I like to know the company's address
and phone if I going to do business with them.
jerryb
>
>
>Scott Perkins wrote:
>
>Here is a family run aviation tools operation that may have
>some attractive deals ? ? ? check em out and see. I just said
>I would be glad to forward info if they had some good deals.
>
>Basically, go to http://www.planetools.com2 and complete the
>customer survey.
>In the last note section type that you were referred by Scott Perkins
>and that you are entitled to a 20% discount.
>... makes it look like I'm getting kickback ... I swear I'm not : )
>their email address is mailto:planetools(at)cox.net
>
>Here is the quote from message sent to me:
>
> > We have high-quality industrial tools available at 20% discount for your
> > organization. We have made it easy for you to receive your discount on
> > any purchases. Instructions are at the end of this letter.
> >
> > Our inventory includes new, reconditioned and excellent used aircraft
> > tools including:
> >
> > * Rivet Guns & Special Rivet Sets for most aircraft rivets
> > * Drills, Bits, Reamers and Taps
> > * Magnavon Countersink Cages and Countersink Bits
> > * Nut Runners and Wedgelock Guns
> > * Bucking Bars
> > * Quick Change 1/4-28 Chucks and Bits
> > * Riveters Tape
> > * Torque Wrenches
> > * Weldon Deburr Bits
> > * 1/4-28 Angle Drills
> > * Hi Loc Pliers
> >
> > Our new rivet guns are available in special configurations and may be
> > uniquely identified to you. Reconditioned tools are as good as new. Used
> > tools are in excellent condition and will perform as good as new. You
> > will realize a significant savings when purchasing our high quality
> > industrial tools.
> >
> > We are adding new items daily. Our upcoming new hand tool lines include
> > Proto, Armstrong and other high quality aviation tools.
> >
> > Here are a few examples:
> >
> > * Isham's New Lifetime Warranty Rivet Gun, Your choice of "Stubby",
> > 200A, 300A or 400A -- Reg. $299.95, Our Price $224.95, After
> > Discount $179.96
> > * New 3X Taylor Rivet Gun -- Reg. $239.95, Our Price $184.95, After
> > Discount $147.96
> > * New T88881B Palm Air Drill -- Reg. $145.95, Our Price $119.95,
> > After Discount $95.96
> > * New Rivnut Puller -- Our Price $99.95, After Discount $79.96
> > * Used Countersink in New Condition -- Magnavon #2164 -- Reg.
> > $67.03, Our Price $29.95, After Discount $23.96
> > * Used Magnavon 1330-20-28 Reversible Pancake -- Reg. $149.95, Our
> > Price $89.95, After Discount $71.96
> >
> > Here's how you sign up:1. Go to our web site at
> > http://www.planetools.com2. Complete the customer survey. In the last
> > note section type that you were referred by Scott Perkins
> > and that you are entitled to a 20% discount.3. Ignore the message you
> > will receive after completing the survey as the survey offer is for a 5%
> > discount through the month of August. You will receive a separate email
> > from us with a customer number. We will code your customer account so
> > you continue to receive the 20% discount on any purchases from our
> > website. The discount applies to everything -- even sale items.
> > You
> > will not be added to any abusive email list; however, we may notify you
> > from time-to-time as we add new product lines you may be interested
> > in. We want to be your premier tool supplier. If you have special needs
> > that are not yet listed on our site simply drop us an email and we will
> > do our best to find the tools you need. We are all "hands on"
> > experienced mechanics in building, modification, maintenance and repair
> > from light general aviation aircraft to commercial jets.
> > Thank you very much.
> >
> > The Isham's (Brad, Shaun and Shane)316-755-0713
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Drilling out rivets. |
I have had occasions to drill our SS rivets. I first knock out the mandrel
using a small punch. To keep the rivet from spinning when I drill it, I cut
a V notch in an old hack saw blade and wedge it under the rive head to drill
it out. Go to a good machine shop supply and get some cobalt drill bits and
they will cut the SS rivets like butter.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
08/13/2002 07:17:16 AM
<<< Did anybody ever come up with a good
solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in
winter, out
of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube.
.....
:o)>>>
Real simple, and you already have everything you need to do it. Poly
fabric, cut and ploytacked onto the front end of the tube, burn holes for
th cables before or after installing the fabric. Stops wind, will not bind
up controls. Tears away if any problems with cables. Worked for me.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
>
>
> <<< Did anybody ever come up with a good
> solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage tube in
> winter, out
> of the cockpit? I know somebody was discussing sprayfoam in the tube.
> .....
> :o)>>>
>
> Real simple, and you already have everything you need to do it. Poly
> fabric, cut and ploytacked onto the front end of the tube, burn holes for
> th cables before or after installing the fabric. Stops wind, will not
bind
> up controls. Tears away if any problems with cables. Worked for me.
>
>
> Jim Gerken
Thanks Jim,
Good idea! Like it!..........snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop |
>
> I'm also still sorting out my engine prop combination because of
>limited performance. I don't know if anyone has calculations or rules to
>share but I'm checking on a higher reduction ratio for my VW. As I'm
>trying to fly with heaver passengers I have had to decrease the pitch on
>my prop for higher engine RPMs (power). I'm now turning 3600-3700 with
>full power climb at 50-55 MPH. The problem is that at cruse I'm turning
>3600 and only going 70. I think my redrive manufacturer makes a 1.91 to
>1 instead of my 1.6 to one. My idea is that my prop is too big and I can
>fix my speed range problem by turning it at lower RPMs at a higher
>pitch.
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
>
Hey Rick and Gang,
A different gear ratio is not going to help, you have to decide to pitch for
climb or cruise performance.
With a fourstroke engine the difference in cruise speed is a considerable.
A twostroke has a very narrow torque curve and can't take advantage of an
inflight adjustable prop.
I have ordered an Ivo inflight high pitch prop to try on my BMW.
Will let you know how it works.
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Xtra
BMW powered
66 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop |
> A different gear ratio is not going to help, you have to decide to pitch for
> climb or cruise performance.
> Hans van Alphen
Hans/Gents:
Is the above peculiar to VW's and BMW's? Or are you saying
all four stroke engines have two choices, climb or cruise?
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop |
Prop Wise Guys,
What are your thoughts about a constant speed prop on a two stroke - the
goods and bads? IVO has this option now. Anyone have any actual experiance
with these or know anyone who has tried one?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop |
Steve,
I have a MarkIII with an IVO elcectric adjustable prop. It really does no
good at the slow speeds the Kolb flies. Leaving the throttle all the way up
and reducing RPM by increasing prop pitch in a high drag machine at these
speeds just doesn't improve economy or speed. 2 cycle engines run much
richer at full throttle than mid range so you will use dramatically more
fuel in this configuration. It is best, in my opinion, to set the prop for
best RPM at takeoff and throttle back for the cruise you want.
Bob
N52B
N331B
N511RK
N680JM
----- Original Message -----
From: <SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
>
> Prop Wise Guys,
>
> What are your thoughts about a constant speed prop on a two stroke - the
> goods and bads? IVO has this option now. Anyone have any actual
experiance
> with these or know anyone who has tried one?
>
> Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop |
> I have a MarkIII with an IVO elcectric adjustable prop. It really does no
> good at the slow speeds the Kolb flies. he cruise you want.
> Bob
Bob/Gents:
One step further: Adjust prop pitch for optimum climb and
cruise. WOT, straight and level flight, rpm just touches
the red line or a tab above.
Does not matter what static rpm is, other than a
reference/check point on take off to insure your engine is
performing as it should, prior to committing to flight.
With my 70", 3 blade, fast taper, Warp Drive Prop, static
rpm before brake release is 5,300-5,400 rpm. As soon as
brakes are released and she starts rolling, rpm drops aprx
100 rpm. That rpm is what it will climb with at 60-70 mph
WOT, from 1,200 to 2,000 fpm, depending on how she is loaded
and what the OAT is. WOT, straight and level, 5,500 rpm.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop |
John,
Still like what I said:
It is best, in my opinion, to set the prop for
best RPM at takeoff and throttle back for the cruise you want.
This gives you the best climb performance!
But I will defend to the death your right to state it differently!
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
>
>
> > I have a MarkIII with an IVO elcectric adjustable prop. It really does
no
> > good at the slow speeds the Kolb flies. he cruise you want.
> > Bob
>
> Bob/Gents:
>
> One step further: Adjust prop pitch for optimum climb and
> cruise. WOT, straight and level flight, rpm just touches
> the red line or a tab above.
>
> Does not matter what static rpm is, other than a
> reference/check point on take off to insure your engine is
> performing as it should, prior to committing to flight.
>
> With my 70", 3 blade, fast taper, Warp Drive Prop, static
> rpm before brake release is 5,300-5,400 rpm. As soon as
> brakes are released and she starts rolling, rpm drops aprx
> 100 rpm. That rpm is what it will climb with at 60-70 mph
> WOT, from 1,200 to 2,000 fpm, depending on how she is loaded
> and what the OAT is. WOT, straight and level, 5,500 rpm.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop |
> Still like what I said:
> It is best, in my opinion, to set the prop for
> best RPM at takeoff and throttle back for the cruise you want.
> This gives you the best climb performance!
> Bob
Bob/Gang:
Roger, "best climb performance".
My method produces "best climb/cruise performance".
This is the best method to "tune" the prop to produce a
combination of results. I agree that a have to give up a
tad of climb and a tad of cruise to get it, but for cross
country, local flying, it gives me what I want.
Old Kolb Aircraft used to pitch their aircraft on the light
side, best climb, when they were headed for Lakeland and
Oshkosh. It produced results. However, on a cross country,
short or long, it was like flying around in second gear.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
In my locale I would prefer a cruise setup as it's near sea level,
mostly flat, most anyplace I would take off from would have plenty of
room. Lots more cold than hot weather. So a Kolb would have plenty of
take off climb authority even with a cruise pitch. So for me reduced
fuel consumption and higher speed are more important. Was thinking of
mounting one of those little jet engines in the fuselage tube for a
booster if I should need the extra take off performance like when I
leave the bay with a load of 10 pound Walleyes, and for out running
white outs in the Michigan winters. Keep the rats nests out of the tube
also. Come to think of it I could probably keep the runway clear in
winter too. Even use it to blow the leaves over into the neighbors yard.
Yuck yuck......Snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 8/11/02 12:32:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
biglar(at)gogittum.com writes:
<< took lots of pics of the procedure, and several knowledgable
people complimented me on the job. Anyhow..........even tho' I completely
encapsulated everything with marine plywood & epoxy, somehow, somewhere,
water got in, and that "waterproof" foam soaked up a couple hundred pounds
of salt water. Opened it up, and it WOULD NOT dry out. Never did figure
out a good answer to that one. Far as I know, it's still going strong.
Again, Been There Lar. >>
There's 2 kinds of foam....open cell and closed cell.....it probably makes a
big difference which type it is for absorption.
George Randolph
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 8/11/02 1:04:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ronoy(at)shentel.net writes:
<<
Conclusion: I doubt that bleach will seriously corrode our dainty
vehicles.
Bob N. >>
I remember the thread, .... thank you Bob, for your inquiring mind...I now
have a new fact to put in mine.
George Randolph...the ol glider pilot....and firetar driver from Akron
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Welding Steel Tube with Foam in It |
From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
Yes, the fumes can be nasty. I don't know what type of foam you have, but
some plastics will even give you cyanide when heated too much or burned.
Will the foam add carbon to your weld, making it brittle? (same as using
an oxidizing flame)
Larry the MicroMong guy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George" <geomurphy(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | relocating gas tank |
I have an older Firestar I that has the 5 gal. gas tank secured to part
of the cage framework that is located directly behind my head. I want
to cut the steel tube that it is resting on and locate the tank lower
into the cage area, possibly sitting directly on the boom tube. Has
anyone ever removed this tube and relocated the gas tank lower? I do
not see a structural need for this tube and am afraid to remove it
without some expert advice from the Kolb group. Has anyone been able to
fit a single 10 gallon tank back there?
Puzzled possum n Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | NASA cockpit wx pilot survey |
Help,
Saw a blurb in either AvWeb or aero-news abt an interactive pilot survey
for input on cockpit wx displays. Can't find it by ckg back issues.
Yes, I know this isn't UL, but just maybe someone saw it and wrote down
the URL
thanks,
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix? |
I'm aware of using the Seafoam treatment in the cylinders at periodic
intervals, but has anybody tried mixing it in with the premix fuel. Is
there any established positive results.
(Note, if your not aware of the Seafoam Treatment, clink on the search link
of the trailer of this message and do a search on the Kolb list for the
Seafoam Treatment.)
In the past some one posted about some additive that was being used by one
of the states department of natural resources I believe it was on there
2-stroke boat engines. Anyone know what it was or where it was
posted. I've tried searches but can't seem to find the correct key words
to locate it. It may have been on another list.
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop |
For several years I have kept my 2 blade 66" Ivoprop set to where my 532
will just nudge 6400 rpm at full throttle in level flight. Because of the
heat wave around here lately, I repitched it to pick up about 300 rpm in
climb. It does climb a bit better, and since I have to clear a 300' high
power line about 900' off the end of the runway, I will leave it that way
for until the weather changes. But then it goes back like it was. Less
vibration, less noise, less fuel used, lower rpm at cruise, & more top
speed is worth more to me than a 10% improvement in climb rate. But to each
his own. Pitch it like you like it, and you'll still enjoy it anyway.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Steve,
>I have a MarkIII with an IVO elcectric adjustable prop. It really does no
>good at the slow speeds the Kolb flies. Leaving the throttle all the way up
>and reducing RPM by increasing prop pitch in a high drag machine at these
>speeds just doesn't improve economy or speed. 2 cycle engines run much
>richer at full throttle than mid range so you will use dramatically more
>fuel in this configuration. It is best, in my opinion, to set the prop for
>best RPM at takeoff and throttle back for the cruise you want.
>Bob
>N52B
>N331B
>N511RK
>N680JM
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
>
>
>>
>> Prop Wise Guys,
>>
>> What are your thoughts about a constant speed prop on a two stroke - the
>> goods and bads? IVO has this option now. Anyone have any actual
>experiance
>> with these or know anyone who has tried one?
>>
>> Steve
>>
>
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix? |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
> I'm aware of using the Seafoam treatment in the cylinders at periodic
> intervals, but has anybody tried mixing it in with the premix
> fuel. Is there any established positive results.
> jerryb
Jerry, I don't use it in the tank because I'm not sure what it will do to
it. There is a local pilot flying a Skystar Kitfox with a 582 that uses
it in his premix. I didn't ask him about the fuel tank that he used.
Ralph B.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
I have been trying to call LiteSpeed for a few days but can only get an
answering machine. Does anyone know what the status is with them?
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com> |
Ron or Mary wrote:
>
> I have been trying to call LiteSpeed for a few days but can only get an
> answering machine. Does anyone know what the status is with them?
Ron,
I talked to Lite Speed a couple of times while building my wings in late
May and business dropped off to the point that Wayne was let go and "Pig"
(never did catch his real name) was the only one there on a part time
basis. I Only talked to Pig- Brian was never around.
While I was at Lite Speed for a visit in late April, Brian mentioned that
things were getting lean. It's not unlikely that he has shut Lite Speed
down or is off for a while 'till business picks up. But, If you don't
answer your phone, how can you get new business?
I suggest you call Dany Mullins at TNK. He and Brian are good friends
and Danny might kow of Brian's status.
I hope he surfaces soon. He is a terrific source of Kolb building
expertise.
*********************
Ken W. Korenek
ken-foi(at)attbi.com
Kolb FireStar II, "My Mistress"
Rotax 503, Oil Injected
3 Blade Powerfin
http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot/TX_files/image003.jpg
Six Chuter SR7-XL "Elmo"
Powered Parachute
Rotax 582, Oil Injected
3 Blade PowerFin
http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot/TX_files/image005.jpg
4906 Oak Springs Drive
Arlington, Texas 76016
817-572-6832 voice
817-572-6842 fax
817-657-6500 cell
817-483-8054 home
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Woody Weaver" <mts0140(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
Subject: | Re: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix? |
A guy in our club used "Carbon Guard" or something like that. He got it
from the park service where he worked. He used Exxon two stroke oil, again
because "it was there". He put 330 hours (had hour meter) on a CDI 447. I
ended up with the engine. I pulled the heads and its amazingly clean.
Heads are shiny aluminum, little or no carbon. Inside the engine looks like
it has maybe 10 hours on it. Tops of the pistons have some areas with light
carbon and some areas still shiny. He said he poured "two or three ounces"
in every tank of fuel. Didn't measure, just eyeballed it.
I looked for Carbon Guard. No luck. Similar products are discussed at boat
sites. I did find a product that looks similar and is called ValvTect
Carbon Free. The hype on the bottle says:
Marine Fuel Additive
Prevents ring sticking
Prevents carbon deposits.
Says add 1 ounce to 5 gallons of gas. I was thinking I might use it in my
chain saw. For my MX with 277, I'm using synthetic snowmobile oil.
Woody (the other one)
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix?
>
> I'm aware of using the Seafoam treatment in the cylinders at periodic
> intervals, but has anybody tried mixing it in with the premix fuel. Is
> there any established positive results.
>
> (Note, if your not aware of the Seafoam Treatment, clink on the search
link
> of the trailer of this message and do a search on the Kolb list for the
> Seafoam Treatment.)
>
> In the past some one posted about some additive that was being used by one
> of the states department of natural resources I believe it was on there
> 2-stroke boat engines. Anyone know what it was or where it was
> posted. I've tried searches but can't seem to find the correct key words
> to locate it. It may have been on another list.
> jerryb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix? |
Carbon Guard is an OMC product. You should be able to get it from any
Evinrude out board motor dealer. Yahama has a product that is called "Ring
Free". I have used this in my outboard for 12 years and the motor still runs
as it did when it was new. Both these products may be the same. They both
are suppose to keep the carbon build up to a minimum. I bought a gallon of
the ring free when I bought to motor and have just now run out. $75.00 for
12 years and 400 hours.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 07:20:23 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix?
A guy in our club used "Carbon Guard" or something like that. He got it
from the park service where he worked. He used Exxon two stroke oil, again
because "it was there". He put 330 hours (had hour meter) on a CDI 447. I
ended up with the engine. I pulled the heads and its amazingly clean.
Heads are shiny aluminum,
>
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable prop |
>> A different gear ratio is not going to help, you have to decide to pitch
for
>> optimum climb or cruise performance.
>
>> Hans van Alphen
>
>Hans/Gents:
>
>Is the above peculiar to VW's and BMW's? Or are you saying
>all four stroke engines have two choices, climb or cruise?
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
John and All,
What I am trying to say is that with a fixed pitched propeller, you have the
choice to set it to optimum climb or to optimum cruise or compromise
somewhere in between the two.
It is a substantial compromise with a four stroke engine that has a wide
torque curve.
For example on my fourstroke BMW, I repitched my 3 blade 68" Powerfin just
a bit flatter, with the following results,
before :
TO rpm 5900, Climb=700fpm, Cruise @ 5500rpm=70 mph, Cruise 4750rpm= 52mph.
after :
TO rpm 5500, Climb=500fpm, Cruise @ 5500rpm=82 mph, Cruise 4750rpm= 65mph.
Climb reduced by 200 fpm but cruise increased by 12 mph. and this is only a
fraction of the range possible with an inflight prop.
I would like to use the engine power to the max in climb and for when I have
a heavy passenger and be able to enjoy fast cruise (85 mph) to go cross
country or just use low rpm's to enjoy the countryside or beach.
Remember this is only for four stroke engines, not two strokes, and John I
am not sure but think it would benefit your engine as well, it's like adding
another gear.
My BMW is not as powerful as the 912 and therefore I need all the help I can
get.
Will keep you updated on further testing with the inflight prop.
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Xtra
BMW powered
66 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable prop |
> My BMW is not as powerful as the 912 and therefore I need all the help I can
> get.
> Will keep you updated on further testing with the inflight prop.
>
> Hans van Alphen
Hans/Gents:
I understand what you are saying.
Inflight adjustable prop would benefit my 912S. I would be
able to see 100 hp on takeoff at 5,800 rpm for 5 minutes
maximum. Then repitch for 5,500 rpm WOT.
No matter what I do, prop-wise, the Mark III is going to be
a 80-85 mph cruise airplane with max of about 95 mph.
Anything over 85 mph, unless the air is extremely calm, is
uncomfortable. Trying to increase cruise and top end on the
Mark III is a waste of HP. I get about the same cruise with
the 582, as the 912, and the 912S. The greatest difference
is climb performance.
The best engine on my airplane for all around performance
and economy was the 912. Cruised 80 mph at 5,000 rpm
burning 4.0 gph. The 912S at 5,200 rpm, cruises 88 mph and
burns 5.0 gph. The 582 turning 5,800 rpm cruised 80 mph and
burned 5.5 gph (gas and oil). Top end for all three engines
on my airplane are all about the same, 95 mph.
Aerodynamically the Mark III runs into a brick wall after 85
mph. My own opinion and personal experience.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Inflight Adjustable Prop |
From: | William George <Wgeorge(at)macrevolution.com> |
Y'all listen to brother John on this one and save yourselves a world of
extra work and wasted time. Ask me how I know...
Bill George
Kolb Mk-3/Verner1400SVS/Powerfin 68" "F"
> From: Kolb-List Digest Server <kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 23:50:00 -0700
> To: Kolb-List Digest List
> Subject: Kolb-List Digest: 21 Msgs - 08/13/02
>
> From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop
>
>
>
>> I have a MarkIII with an IVO elcectric adjustable prop. It really does no
>> good at the slow speeds the Kolb flies. he cruise you want.
>> Bob
>
> Bob/Gents:
>
> One step further: Adjust prop pitch for optimum climb and
> cruise. WOT, straight and level flight, rpm just touches
> the red line or a tab above.
>
> Does not matter what static rpm is, other than a
> reference/check point on take off to insure your engine is
> performing as it should, prior to committing to flight.
>
> With my 70", 3 blade, fast taper, Warp Drive Prop, static
> rpm before brake release is 5,300-5,400 rpm. As soon as
> brakes are released and she starts rolling, rpm drops aprx
> 100 rpm. That rpm is what it will climb with at 60-70 mph
> WOT, from 1,200 to 2,000 fpm, depending on how she is loaded
> and what the OAT is. WOT, straight and level, 5,500 rpm.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: pondering muffler system attachment |
From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
08/14/2002 12:30:32 PM
Greetings.
Got my replacement exhaust pipe for the #3 cylinder on the 912S the other
day (From Titan; fast response and no charge). The first one broke in
flight at the first weld, by the EGT sender. A local certified welding
inspector looked at the broken pipe and found definite room for improvement
in the weld quality on both the old broken pipe and the new replacement, so
I am having him make another pass on the welds on the replacement pipe.
While not an aviation expert, he suggested an additional attachment point
between the engine and the exhaust system. Looking over the layout, the
logical place for this attachment point is on the gearbox, which
conveniently has rather large threaded (and unused) holes on both sides,
under the muffler. I ran this concept by Kerry at Lockwood, and he
indicated others have done this as well, and knew of no associated
problems. He did suggest making the attachment point flexible rather than
rigid, with some sort of rubber mounting system. After thinking that
over, Im not sure that a flexible attachment really makes sense. It seems
to me that what Im really trying to do is PREVENT movement of the exhaust
system (and more specifically, movement at the end of the exhaust pipes and
muffler. By my reasoning, having the exhaust system rigidly attached to
the engine at both the cylinder heads and at the muffler should make the
engine and muffler move as one, whereas a flexible attachment point at the
muffler (or none at all), could allow a bit of a whipping action that
could fatigue the metal over time.
What does the collective wisdom of The List say? I would like to hear from
those that agree as well as disagree!
I should add that both Titan and Kerry at Lockwood indicated that they are
not aware of other occurrences of the exhaust pipes breaking (we Listers do
- the Adriel Halsey case, apparently due to a bad vibration problem), and
were surprised that it happened. l am tempted to just chalk the whole
thing up to a bad weld and replace the pipe with no other changes, but my
confidence in the system has taken a blow, and I think a stronger system
would help mend that.
Regards,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re:keep critters out./ |
<<< Did anybody ever come up with a good
solution for keeping the cold air coming up the fuselage
tube in
winter, out>>>
when i first built i tried to put fabric on the front of the
tube after the cables were in.... after hearing about the
problems with critters i cut a 8 inch circle of fabric and
heat formed it around a 6 inch piece of wood.... then glued
it into the back end of the tube about 6 inches in from the
end.... i cut small slits for the cables.... wont be able
to tell how it works till winter....
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Subject: | Ultraold Ultrastar's |
I'm still flying the Cuyuna powered Ultrastar with the UL202 and
the 2SI 2.5 to 1 belt drive and have about 35 hours on it since I
changed to the 3 blade 50 inch diameter Warp drive. No problems at all !
! Yet! The performance seems better with this combination than with the
2.04 to 1Nova gearbox and 2 blade Warp Drive. I thought a 2 blade prop
was generally more efficient than a three ? ?
I am going to Sea Foam it soon because I am up to 100 hours now
since I began flying it and it had time on it since my purchase.
I need the advice of you "old " Ultrastar pilots in regards to
"heavy" ailerons. I am about to install VG's that will help this problem
but am also considering reinstalling the inboard aileron surfaces that
were removed previous to me. What was the rational for this ? It seems
like I may be able to increase lift, lower the stall and gain some
aileron authority at the same time. I am cruising at 70 with a Firestar
nose cone and modified windshield and am concerned with too much
speed....drop the nose and it's 85+ real quick in an old 1986 airframe.
So by putting the missing aileron surface back on a loss of cruise may
be ok.
Does anyone have a good way to install a drooped ailereon system on
an Ultrastar?
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Ballenger" <ulpilot(at)cavtel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable prop |
John
It is data like this, that makes this list so invaluable. I have been
considering the MK III engine options and your personal experience
information makes my decisions very easy.
Thanks
Jim Ballenger
FS KXP 447
Virginia Beach, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable prop
>
>
> > My BMW is not as powerful as the 912 and therefore I need all the help I
can
> > get.
> > Will keep you updated on further testing with the inflight prop.
> >
> > Hans van Alphen
>
> Hans/Gents:
>
> I understand what you are saying.
>
> Inflight adjustable prop would benefit my 912S. I would be
> able to see 100 hp on takeoff at 5,800 rpm for 5 minutes
> maximum. Then repitch for 5,500 rpm WOT.
>
> No matter what I do, prop-wise, the Mark III is going to be
> a 80-85 mph cruise airplane with max of about 95 mph.
> Anything over 85 mph, unless the air is extremely calm, is
> uncomfortable. Trying to increase cruise and top end on the
> Mark III is a waste of HP. I get about the same cruise with
> the 582, as the 912, and the 912S. The greatest difference
> is climb performance.
>
> The best engine on my airplane for all around performance
> and economy was the 912. Cruised 80 mph at 5,000 rpm
> burning 4.0 gph. The 912S at 5,200 rpm, cruises 88 mph and
> burns 5.0 gph. The 582 turning 5,800 rpm cruised 80 mph and
> burned 5.5 gph (gas and oil). Top end for all three engines
> on my airplane are all about the same, 95 mph.
>
> Aerodynamically the Mark III runs into a brick wall after 85
> mph. My own opinion and personal experience.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
08/14/2002 02:46:35 PM
I seem to remember a story about a guy who burned up a 582 in something
like 20 hours from adding ATF to the fuel. Am I remembering that old story
correctly? Anybody remember more details? Seems like we even knew the
guy.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable prop |
> I have been
> considering the MK III engine options and your personal experience
> information makes my decisions very easy.
>
> Jim Ballenger
Jim/Gang:
Now that I told you that, I will tell you this.
Even though I think the 912 (80HP) is the best all around
engine for performance and economy, I still prefer the 912S
as the best engine for me and my airplane. I am not all
that concerned about economy, except I can fly further
between fuel stops with an engine that burns 4 vs one that
burns 5 gph.
The 912S gives my airplane, which is heavy, the kind of
performance I thought I would get when I changed over from
the 582 to the 912. I like the feeling of a little extra
power, although there are times I get in situations that
require every once of power the 912S makes (95 hp at 5,500
rpm) and then some. However, I think I have gotten to the
top of the scale at this point and any more power would be
an overkill. There comes a point in the pusher with high
thrust line that over power can creat undesirable situations
during take off and climb. The Ultrastar with low pusher
thrust line pushed the nose up and the high thrust line
pushes the nose down. More thrust more the nose is pushed
down. More the nose is pushed down, the more nose up trim
required to keep the controls comfortable.
john h
PS: Shot some Polyspray this morning on the lower vert
stab. Tomorrow a little sanding and some more Polyspray.
Probably a couple coats of white Polytone. Friday a little
yellow Aerothane and Saturday trim with red Aerothane.
Maybe Sunday we will get the tail back on Miss P'fer, and
Monday fly. I am ready for my aviation therapy.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable prop |
John,
If I get what your saying, cruise is tit for tat between the 80/100hp
engines (due to airframe not designed to go fast...)then it is all about
climb. What were the numbers comparing between the 2? Are you talking
about a couple of hundred feet per minute difference? Or something
more???
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Inflight Adjustable prop
> I have been
> considering the MK III engine options and your personal experience
> information makes my decisions very easy.
>
> Jim Ballenger
Jim/Gang:
Now that I told you that, I will tell you this.
Even though I think the 912 (80HP) is the best all around
engine for performance and economy, I still prefer the 912S
as the best engine for me and my airplane. I am not all
that concerned about economy, except I can fly further
between fuel stops with an engine that burns 4 vs one that
burns 5 gph.
The 912S gives my airplane, which is heavy, the kind of
performance I thought I would get when I changed over from
the 582 to the 912. I like the feeling of a little extra
power, although there are times I get in situations that
require every once of power the 912S makes (95 hp at 5,500
rpm) and then some. However, I think I have gotten to the
top of the scale at this point and any more power would be
an overkill. There comes a point in the pusher with high
thrust line that over power can creat undesirable situations
during take off and climb. The Ultrastar with low pusher
thrust line pushed the nose up and the high thrust line
pushes the nose down. More thrust more the nose is pushed
down. More the nose is pushed down, the more nose up trim
required to keep the controls comfortable.
john h
PS: Shot some Polyspray this morning on the lower vert
stab. Tomorrow a little sanding and some more Polyspray.
Probably a couple coats of white Polytone. Friday a little
yellow Aerothane and Saturday trim with red Aerothane.
Maybe Sunday we will get the tail back on Miss P'fer, and
Monday fly. I am ready for my aviation therapy.
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable prop |
> If I get what your saying, cruise is tit for tat between the 80/100hp
> engines (due to airframe not designed to go fast...)then it is all about
> climb.
> Jeremy Casey
Jeremy/Gents:
Right. We ain't gonna go real fast in a slow airplane no
matter how much power we stick on it. But speed is not what
I am after anyhow, although it would be nice to cruise 100
mph, or 120 mph. If I get an airplane that will fly fast I
have to give up the slow part. The slow, short field,
terrific climb capability of my Mark III, the ability to
load it down until it pops, then go fly away with that load,
is what I like. I am not complaining about my 85 mph cruise
either. I can make a lot of miles in a day at that speed.
Remember, I don't have to follow the roads and can cut the
corners. Also don't have to contend with all those other
drivers, road construction, detours, and 5 o'clock traffic
jams.
Forgot to mention in previous posts the one big difference
in the 912 and 912S. The 912S is not a hopped up 912 tuned
to produce 20 more hp. It was the culmination, as of
January 2000, of 7,000 912's built over an 11 year period.
What ROTAX learned from user testing with those engines over
that time period resulted in a totally new engine, the
912S. If you take a look at the parts manual for the
912/914 series engines, you will discover that most major
parts of the 912/914 are the same. Not so for the 912S. It
has much heavier engine cases, crank shaft, bearings,
connecting rods, pistons, heads, intake manifolds, etc.
912S components are not the same as 912.
It is by far the best engine Rotax produces. That equates
to me to be the most reliable engine. After spending four
days in Eric Tucker's 912 School, I am convinced the 912S is
as good engine and better than anything we produce in the
US, Lycoming/Continental. It is certified in Europe. Only
difference between 912SUL and 912S JAR Certified is the
parts are SN'd and tracked/logged on each engine. They may
be run in for 5 hours (not for sure) over the UL 912S that
is run 30 min or an hour.
Now all I have to do is my part as the operator/maintainer
to keep it running an enjoy some safe reliable flying.
Climb is improved from 25% to 50% from 912 to 912S on my
airplane. For me, this alone is enough to justify the extra
$1,000 for the 912S. If I fly 1,000 hours, the fuel, oil,
and spark plug savings alone will make up the diffence in
purchase price of the 912 and the 582. The 912 will be
cheaper to own and operate than the 582 in the long run.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
I agree with your reasoning about the attachement. I cannot see much benafit in
terms of stress reliefe by having a flexible bracket to an inflexible unit. I
don't know what it looks like so let me hedge my opinion as "subject to change
upon viewing a photo". :-)
Ron
==========================
whereas a flexible attachment point at the
muffler (or none at all), could allow a bit of a whipping action that
could fatigue the metal over time.
What does the collective wisdom of The List say? I would like to hear from
those that agree as well as disagree!
==============================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> I cannot see much benafit in terms of stress reliefe by having a flexible bracket
to an inflexible unit. I don't know what it looks like so let me hedge
my opinion as "subject to change upon viewing a photo". :-)
>
> Ron
Ron/Gents:
Here's your pic you requested:
http://hawk36.home.mindspring.com/Aircraft/Img24.jpg
That's a Titan 912S exhaust system. Now has 370 hours on it
without any problems.
Recommend ya'll go to Titan to see if they have a record of
any problems with system coming apart. Several of us on the
Kolb List are running them. It is the best system I have
used for the 912/912S, and I have been through a bunch of
them before I found Titans. I like it.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end and it's a real
chore to move her by hand. Does anyone here know of a good tow bar or dolly
that works well with the Kolb line? Either one that can be purchased or one
that a Hey-I-just-fly-these-things-I-don't-build-them kind of guy could
cobble up?
Many thanks for your inputs!
-Ken
P.S. Thanks to everyone who responded so kindly to my request for info about
a cross-threaded plug hole on a 503. This group is fabulous!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Twinstar for sale...Maybe |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Gang...
I'm toying with the idea of selling the Twinstar. It's in the project stage
with everything new to put it together already bought. Since starting the
project, I've flown a few different Kolbs and I'm not happy with the way the
handle. I'm not looking to start a debate here. Having flown a lot of
different planes over the last 25 years, that's my opinion. I've since
picked up a Hipps Reliant that I'm now flying. The Twinstar was flying when
I bought it. Original plans were to recover and repower.
I don't know what this Twinstar is worth. It is stripped to the bare
airframe. All instruments are there. I have a new 503, B box and Powerfin
2 blade prop, covering kit including paint from Aircraft Tech Support, new
VLS BRS 750.
Selling price would depend on how much of it you want. I can use just about
everything except the airframe for other projects.
Is there any interest here? If I don't sell it, I'll probably scrap the
airframe and use the parts for other projects.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> On my MII, and due in part to the fact that I'm
> short, with short arms, reaching the gas tanks is a real pain anyway.
>
> -Ken
Ken/Gang:
I have a pickup truck load of Wal*Mart 5 gal plastic gas
cans made by Rubber Maid or somebody. I use a piece of 1"
vinyl tubing 6 feet long stuck on the pouring spout of the
gas can. The hose is long enough I can stick it in the fuel
filler on the top of the center section with the other end
attached to the spout on the can on the ground. Lift it up
higher than the filler and I am refueling like the gas man
on a NASCAR team.
Wish I knew how many gallons of fuel have gone through those
cans over the last 18 years.
I try to remember to throw the hose in the airplane when I
go cross countrying. That way, I got an easy way to get
auto fuel in my tank should I come across a friendly
enthusiast with gas. Almost impossible and not at all
inviting to try to refuel my airplane out of a 5 gal can
without my hose extension.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: pondering muffler system attachment |
Enrich,
I ran this concept by Kerry at Lockwood, and he
indicated others have done this as well, and knew of no associated
problems. He did suggest making the attachment point flexible rather than
rigid, with some sort of rubber mounting system. After thinking that
over, Im not sure that a flexible attachment really makes sense. It seems
to me that what Im really trying to do is PREVENT movement of the exhaust
system (and more specifically, movement at the end of the exhaust pipes and
muffler. By my reasoning, having the exhaust system rigidly attached to
the engine at both the cylinder heads and at the muffler should make the
engine and muffler move as one, whereas a flexible attachment point at the
muffler (or none at all), could allow a bit of a whipping action that
could fatigue the metal over time.
If others have not been having trouble, I would chalk it up to just a bad weld.
One must be careful about hard mounting exhaust pipes. If one calculates the change
in length of a 20 inch pipe whose temperature is increased 1400 degrees
F, a stainless steel pipe will lengthen over a quarter of an inch, and plane carbon
pipe will lengthen 3/16 of an inch. This is why the pipes are curved or
folded to give the pipe some chance to move in between the end attachments.
If you add a third constrain or rigid attachment to prevent the additional bowing,
you will put all kinds of additional stresses on the head pipe mount.
This is the problem I have run into in trying to get the Victor 1 mounted on my
FireFly. Simonini took their straight muffler and reworked it into a folded
horse shoe shape so that it could be mounted over the top of the pusher engine.
They used a single ball and socket to attach the folded pipe to the engine.
For three months, I tried everything I could to keep the single ball and socket
connection sealed at higher rpms. I finally got it up to 5500 rpm before
the seal would break down. I tightened things a little more and I cracked or
broke all the muffler mounts to the engine.
I have reworked the muffler mounting system to allow greater movement and I have
added a second ball and socket to compensate for the pipe expansion. I took
the engine to the airport today, and hopefully, tomorrow I will find out if
the pipe will stay sealed on up to 6000 rpm.
If you would like to see what a fellow will go through to keep a muffler on an
engine, you can see it at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly79.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Seafoam Treatment and use in Premix? |
In a message dated 8/13/02 11:11:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ulflyer(at)airmail.net writes:
> In the past some one posted about some additive that was being used by one
> of the states department of natural resources I believe it was on there
> 2-stroke boat engines. Anyone know what it was or where it was
> posted. I've tried searches but can't seem to find the correct key words
> to locate it. It may have been on another list.
> jerryb
>
>
>
I have been using "Z-Max" in my pre-mix for about the last 200 hours. I put
12 ounces in a 6 gallon tank every 25 hours. I don't know if it's done any
good 'cause I haven't done anything to the engine in 320 hours. I'll let you
know when I look at the pistons
next year.
Z-max should be available at you auto parts store.
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
Well after splashing water into my eyes. They were hurting from the paint job.
:-) I agree, a rigid bracket should be installed. It seems that the muffler is
held by the pipes only, and above the motor. Certainly there is enough vibration
induced x moment distance to crack a thin wall tube. I would use .080 sheet
bracket placed East West if possible.
Ron
================================
Here's your pic you requested:
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel dolly |
Ken,
Search the archives because I know someone posted an easy to make dolly but
I can't remember who it was.
hope this helps
Geoff Thistlethwaite
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Tailwheel dolly
>
> My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end and it's a
real
> chore to move her by hand. Does anyone here know of a good tow bar or
dolly
> that works well with the Kolb line? Either one that can be purchased or
one
> that a Hey-I-just-fly-these-things-I-don't-build-them kind of guy could
> cobble up?
>
> Many thanks for your inputs!
>
> -Ken
>
> P.S. Thanks to everyone who responded so kindly to my request for info
about
> a cross-threaded plug hole on a 503. This group is fabulous!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | kugelair(at)netscape.net |
A long time ago I had to rig up a transfer pump to pump mogas into a C-150 for
which I had an STC to use Mogas. Anyway all I did is by a diesel fuel pump from
a Mercedes at a junk yard . You can get a diesel fuel pump from any of the automotive
stores. NAPA,Pep Boys, etc.. just tell them you want a positive displacement
pump, which I assume would be any diesel fuel pump.
The guy I bought my Mark II from had a battery operated pump, which is what
I'd really like to have. He couldn't remember where he got it, though.
Anyone here have any info? On my MII, and due in part to the fact that I'm
short, with short arms, reaching the gas tanks is a real pain anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transfer pump |
Since it's late, I'll just trot out an old piece from UF mag.
A Fuelish Solution
Among many other things I miss after having to sell my beautiful Cessna
Cardinal is the absence of a ramp fuel attendant to refuel my FireFly.
Of course he wouldnt have mogas, nor the required oil type for the
50:1, but he would at least lift up that five gallon can and awkwardly
try to get its spout into the waiting tank without spilling, and all the
time maneuvering in and around the forest of fuselage cage members. Yeah
I see pumps for sale, both mechanical and electrical that can do the
job, but at BIG prices. Growing up in The Depression and soloing prewar
(Thats The Biggie) I have a healthy respect for Cheap! So if youre
interested in cheap but good, and easy to build, read on. Otherwise go
directly to the Accident Reports or other gripping stuff.
When I had the Cardinal at home base I used a lot of mogas which
required a ladder, scuff pad on wing, funnel, and lots of grunting and
heaving. So I dinged up a simple little system that pumped gas out of
ferry tank in bed of pickup or cars trunk right up to wing tanks.
What follows is an entirely safe pumping method having no electrical
connections or batteries, just a bit of compressed air from a portable
air tank. Since Im talking mostly to kit builders, Ill just give you
the basic ideas and let you gather the materials from various sources.
You need to scrounge two major items: a fuel tank holding 6.5 to as much
as 13 gals. Why 6.5? Easy. With that much you need just a pint of
2-stroke oil. The 13 needs two pints of course. Tank should stand
vertically; an old auto tank wont work quite as well. Try chemical
companies, pesticides, anyone who uses chemicals in large quantities.
And a leftover 20# Freon bottle (empty!)or easier to find, a 20# LPG
bottle.
Now fix/find/make a tightly sealing cap for the supply tank, large
enough to install a 3/8th or 1/2 PVC tube that will reach almost to
bottom. This is the pickup tube. Either put a simple valve on outside
end, or merely connect to flex line for insertion in your UL tank. Wait,
not done with cap. Also put on an ordinary valve stem from a tubeless
tire rim, complete with Schrader valve. Holes through cap should be
fairly airtight.
If you already have a small portable air tank, youre almost done. If
not go to auto parts store and buy (I hate that word) a kit to convert
one of the above tanks to an air bottle. Some even have a pressure gage.
I made mine from old fittings.
You can test this whole shebang with water. Put a few gallons in gas
tank (the one you just made, not your ULs!) Gently inlet some air from
bottle via Schrader valve. Spray nearby pilots who are laughing at you.
Make a note of how long it takes to run 5 gals (legal UL) or whatever,
and how much air. I used to pump 13 gal with a 20# bottle filled at 100
psi.
If you arent near an air compressor, buy (?) one of those cheap (love
that word) little compressors that plugs into your cars cigar lighter.
That way you are keeping all electrical stuff away during fueling.
568 words published in Ultralight Flying mag
Bob Noyer a.k.a The Grey Baron flying a Kolb FireFly
1316 Darlington Dr.
Winchester VA 22603
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: Inflight Adjustable Prop |
If you have the right prop you can get these performance
characteristics. When I had a small 60" prop on my direct drive VW It
would turn 3500 RPM static, climb, and straight and level WOT. This prop
was throwing air faster than I could go in my MKIII so it never changed
RPMs with speed changes. It also didn't produce much thrust. With my
reduction drive I have a wide blade, three bladed 72 inch prop. This
prop produces a lot of thrust but turns 3500 static and over 4100 level
at WOT. The prop is too large to be fixed pitch and get good climb and
cruise. Also as I get over 3800 RPM the prop starts making noise. I
have some choices of modifying the prop, changing props, in-flight
adjustable or changing reduction ratios. I'm waiting for answers from my
redrive guy but this may be the way to go.
When you buy one of the standard engines some one else has done the
experimenting on getting the right prop. You would think the prop makers
would know but they didn't in my case, it is close but....
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
<<<>>>
_
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Northern Tool and Equipment company ( Formerly Northern Hydraulic) has a
pretty good assortment of fuel transfer devices. Priced from about $25
and up..........Snuf
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bill-jo" <bill-jo(at)prodigy.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transfer pump |
Kolbers
With all the talk about putting fuel in their Kolbs here is how I do
it.I bought a portable 12 gal boat gas tank which comes with gauge,pickup
tube all ready for the fuel line to be hooked. I ordered a 12 volt fuel pump
from Aircraft&Spruce and mounted it to the tank.I got two quick-disconnect
and installed one in each fuel caps in the plane.I have 15 fl of black
hardware fuel line that runs from the tank to the plane. I have the pump
wired into the tail light wiring on my pick-up and I also have a 12 volt
battery that I can run the pump with if I need to get the tank out of the
truck.Just hook the line to the quick-disconnect and start the pump.It takes
about 15 min to fill the tanks with not a drop spilled. You could add a 20
ft hose if you want but 15ft was plenty for me. Any one that wants pictures
of this set-up contact me off list.
Bill Futrell
ML111Xtra
----- Original Message -----
From: <kugelair(at)netscape.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Transfer pump
>
> A long time ago I had to rig up a transfer pump to pump mogas into a C-150
for which I had an STC to use Mogas. Anyway all I did is by a diesel fuel
pump from a Mercedes at a junk yard . You can get a diesel fuel pump from
any of the automotive stores. NAPA,Pep Boys, etc.. just tell them you want a
positive displacement pump, which I assume would be any diesel fuel pump.
>
>
> The guy I bought my Mark II from had a battery operated pump, which is
what
> I'd really like to have. He couldn't remember where he got it, though.
> Anyone here have any info? On my MII, and due in part to the fact that I'm
> short, with short arms, reaching the gas tanks is a real pain anyway.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel dolly |
I purchased a two wheel hand cart app. $20 dollars. I then cut a slot in
the tongue of the hand cart the width of the tail wheel so that I can
roll the cart up behind the tail wheel push the tongue under the tail
wheel axle and the pull the plane along backwards by the tail wheel. I
also added a bolt that sticks up through the tongue near the slot that
keeps the tail wheel axle from slipping off the cart when you are
pulling hard. works well for me.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> kfackler(at)ameritech.net 08/14/02 06:58PM >>>
My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end and it's a
real
chore to move her by hand. Does anyone here know of a good tow bar or
dolly
that works well with the Kolb line? Either one that can be purchased or
one
that a Hey-I-just-fly-these-things-I-don't-build-them kind of guy
could
cobble up?
Many thanks for your inputs!
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles" <chieppa47(at)attbi.com> |
Hi All,
Ok travel question --- I am driving to the Kolb Fly In Sept. 28 -29th) and
as I come down rt. 64 heading towards Lexington KY.there appears to be a
short cut around Lexington to rt. 75. It is rt. 627. Will this save me
time or should I stay on the major highway through the Lexington area?
Thanks in advance for your input
.
Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel transfer |
I have found a fairly convenient way to deal with refueling. Instead of the
usual 5 gallon cans, I use 6 gallon red plastic boat tanks from Walmart.
They are the right size to mix one pint per 6 gallons or a quart for two
tanks to get your 50:1 mix. If you throw a towel up on the wing, you can
set them on the wing and they are low profile (unlike the usual 5 gallon
gas tanks) so that you can get the siphon in easily. I use a jiggle siphon
-Northern sells them, so does Lockwood and CPS. The jiggle siphon comes
with a 6' hose, and it works well.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>I'm driving to Atlanta this weekend. Any grass strips with/without
>Kolbs that I can visit?
>
>Jim
>Mark III
>Charlotte, NC
Most of us are going to the "Head Quarters" BBQ on Saturday.
We may or may not come back Sat afternoon.
Got several grass strips & airports with Kolbs & others just Northwest
of Atlanta.
http://www.georgiasportflyers.com/pages/newsletters/august%202002.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
In an email exchange with Linda at Kolb today, she assured me that Litespeed
(and Brian) are alive and well, though they do seem to have trouble with
communication at times.
-Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Johann G." <johann-g(at)tal.is> |
Subject: | Landed on one main wheel. |
Hi Kolb list friends.
I have a story of my friend here in Iceland, that just bought a used
Kolb Twinstar from Italy. He lives in the East part of the island and I
on the SW corner.I helped him with a few landings, just to get to know
the plane when it arrived from Italy, and then he was off to the east to
his home and family.
The plane was just great and performing as a Kolb should, and he was(
and still is) very happy with his new plane.
A few days ago, he was flying around the east fjords and had made plans
to land where his family was waiting for him with dinner from the
grill.The grass field was long and wide but had a few huge hay rolls
dressed in white plastic. This is to protect it from the rain. This was
not a problem since the space was sufficient.
After the pleasant evening with his family( evenings in Iceland at this
time of the year are bright and sunny) he decided to head on home to his
field.
He had on shoes with a little bigger sole than usual, so the space for
his shoes on the rudder pedals was a little crowded. This cause him to
press on the two center pedal during the take off roll.
The plane turned to the right because there was no compensation for the
torque. When he finally figured out what was happening with the rudder
pedals, he pulled back his legs and corrected the position. Full control
and he was airborne, but now he was heading towards one of the hay rolls
on the field. The right main tire hit the hay roll, and the tire broke
off, leaving the gear leg only and slightly bent.
He decided to head back home and land at the tarmac field instead of the
grass. He did two low passes over the field where the police and
ambulance were waiting for a major accident.
But my friend was not worried about this minor problem, and landed as
slowly as possible on the left main gear, with a left slant, and the
slowly eased it on the right leg.
The plane made a 90=B0turn when the leg hit the tarmac, and stopped
almost immediately after the turn.
The police and ambulance people were almost disappointed to see him jump
out of the plane with a smile, and only a minor damage to the Twinstar.
It is maybe not fair to say that the police and ambulance people were
disappointed, but were ready for the worst. They were rather happy to
see that everything went well.
They helped my friend to load the plane in the trailer again, where it
is now waiting for a new gear leg and a new axle fitting from The New
Kolb Co.
If you would like to see some pictures of his plane and trailer, he does
have a web page in Icelandic, but the pictures are International. :)
Best regards from Iceland,
and fly safe.
Johann G.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Johann G." <johann-g(at)tal.is> |
Subject: | Re: Landed on one main wheel |
Hi list members.
Sorry about the link missing from last post. Here it is:
http://hjalmar.ismennt.is
Best regards,
Johann G.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Landed on one main wheel |
Johann, That's funny. Sorry but I don't read any of the words and didn't see
not one picture...
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Arkansas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johann G." <johann-g(at)tal.is>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Landed on one main wheel
>
> Hi list members.
>
> Sorry about the link missing from last post. Here it is:
> http://hjalmar.ismennt.is
>
> Best regards,
> Johann G.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel dolly |
Ken and Group,
I made a really simple tow bar and it works for me. It is made from a
shovel handle, and piece of aluminum tubing and a half inch bolt. The
bolt slides into the tube that the tail wheel springs attach to, and the
plan can be pulled backward, with steering, while facing the plane to
watch the wing tips. I don't think that the aluminum tube would even be
necessary. The bolt could probably be put through hardwood. It just
looks more like an aircraft tool with the aluminum tube.
John Jung
Fackler, Ken wrote:
>
>My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end and it's a real
>chore to move her by hand. Does anyone here know of a good tow bar or dolly
>that works well with the Kolb line? Either one that can be purchased or one
>that a Hey-I-just-fly-these-things-I-don't-build-them kind of guy could
>cobble up?
>
>Many thanks for your inputs!
>
>-Ken
>
>P.S. Thanks to everyone who responded so kindly to my request for info about
>a cross-threaded plug hole on a 503. This group is fabulous!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel dolly |
This might not be guite to the question asked but here goes anyway. I had
thought about building a dolly for my FireStar but when I put the break away
swivel tail wheel on the dolly became unnecessary. I just pop the tail to
the side and the swivel breaks loose and I can move the plane any where I
want to by just using a little pressure on the rudder. No need to raise the
tail off the ground.
Ron Payne
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Friday, August 16, 2002 06:42:20 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tailwheel dolly
Ken and Group,
I made a really simple tow bar and it works for me. It is made from a
shovel handle, and piece of aluminum tubing and a half inch bolt. The
bolt slides into the tube that the tail wheel springs attach to, and the
plan can be pulled backward, with steering, while facing the plane to
watch the wing tips. I don't think that the aluminum tube would even be
necessary. The bolt could probably be put through hardwood. It just
looks more like an aircraft tool with the aluminum tube.
John Jung
Fackler, Ken wrote:
>
>My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end and it's a real
>chore to move her by hand. Does anyone here know of a good tow bar or dolly
>that works well with the Kolb line? Either one that can be purchased or one
>that a Hey-I-just-fly-these-things-I-don't-build-them kind of guy could
>cobble up?
>
>Many thanks for your inputs!
>
>-Ken
>
>P.S. Thanks to everyone who responded so kindly to my request for info
about
>a cross-threaded plug hole on a 503. This group is fabulous!
>
>
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
This sounds like fun I missed the pig roast this year but maybe next
year. I considered flying to the pig roast but wonder what procedures I
would need to follow to fly from the USA to Canada and back. I
understand we are supposed to land at the nearest airport with customs
agents but ???? Anyone know?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> bill-jo(at)prodigy.net 08/15/02 09:05PM >>>
Kolbers
My wife and me along with my friend Warren Branscomb
attended
Woodys pig roast. We had a great time and it is such a good place for
something like this. It is a good place to bring the family and kids
and
just have a picnic.Plenty of food ,planes, and music. If any of you
are
close enough to go next year I am sure you will have a good time,I plan
on
going next year also.
Catch Ya Latter
Bill Futrell
MK111Xtra
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Victor 1 - FireFly Progress Report - #2 |
>
>Jack,
>
>What's the latest on the italian engine?
>
>Gene
Gene,
Good news. I finished reinstalling the engine today, and flew the FireFly for
about an hour. Finally, the engine will run right on up to 6000 rpm without any
problems of EGT or excessive fuel consumption. I burned fuel at the average
rate of 2.36 gph and this included two take off and landings, and the first
half hour I ran the engine hard.
The engine/muffler is very quiet. I do not power up my anr head set, because if
I do the sound that comes through is very tinnie(?) and objectionable. The
engine is still breaking in and getting stronger. It likes to run and it follows
the throttle very nicely. It reaches max rpm at about 40% open throttle just
like the 447 (uses the same Bing carburetor with different needle and jets).
It idles at less than 1000 rpm so it makes it nice for slow taxiing, but it
works and slips the belt at anything below 2000 rpm. I went from a 60 inch
to a 68 inch propeller, a slightly higher reduction ratio and a higher thrust
line, and the propeller noise seems much less than before. The engine does not
load up so long taxies to the runway have no effect on the engine spooling up
for take off.
I still have some trimming to do. If I let go of the stick at cruise, the nose
slowly drops and it rolls to the left. Also in what I consider to be level flight
the ball is not centered, so I have to figure out what to do to get it back
in trim. Lowering the front of the horizontal stabilizer to help compensate
for the higher thrust line at cruise speed and the roll can be taken care of
with the aileron trim. I have inquired about purchasing a smaller drive pulley
to boost the belt reduction from 1/2.7 to 1/3. This will let me add more
pitch into the propeller and should boost propeller efficiency.
I never thought when I took the 447 off on March 28th that it would take so long
to get to this day. It has been a great day.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Kolb Firefly kit for sale |
Partially built Kolb Firefly kit in Atlanta, GA
less than half the equivalent factory price.
send me an email if interested.
mailto:2scott(at)bellsouth.net
Scott Perkins
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Johann G." <johann-g(at)tal.is> |
Subject: | Re: Landed on one main wheel |
Hello Kolb friends.
Sorry for not realizing the complications for someone not speaking the
language, to find the correct link.
Here is a more precise link to the pictures of his trailer and Twinstar.
http://hjalmar.ismennt.is/Vagn.htm
Best regards,
Johann G.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Landed on one main wheel
<rharris@magnolia-net.com>
>
> Johann, That's funny. Sorry but I don't read any of the words and didn't
see
> not one picture...
>
>
> Richard Harris
> MK3 N912RH
> Arkansas
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Johann G." <johann-g(at)tal.is>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Landed on one main wheel
>
>
> >
> > Hi list members.
> >
> > Sorry about the link missing from last post. Here it is:
> > http://hjalmar.ismennt.is
> >
> > Best regards,
> > Johann G.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
This is a reminder of the builder/pilot database avialible at
http://www.springeraviation.net/.
There are a few new pics also. Also, everyone seems to have a way of
pitching props and the method that I used on my new Powerfin using a laser
pointer was easy and very accurate. Please Email for any details on that...
Kip Laurie
Firetstar II
Atlanta
dama(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Yah, I'm real aware of that.............this was the high priced, Coast
Guard approved flotation foam. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tubes
>
> In a message dated 8/11/02 12:32:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> biglar(at)gogittum.com writes:
>
> << took lots of pics of the procedure, and several knowledgable
> people complimented me on the job. Anyhow..........even tho' I
completely
> encapsulated everything with marine plywood & epoxy, somehow, somewhere,
> water got in, and that "waterproof" foam soaked up a couple hundred
pounds
> of salt water. Opened it up, and it WOULD NOT dry out. Never did figure
> out a good answer to that one. Far as I know, it's still going strong.
> Again, Been There Lar. >>
>
> There's 2 kinds of foam....open cell and closed cell.....it probably makes
a
> big difference which type it is for absorption.
>
> George Randolph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Martin" <martintr(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel transfer |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel transfer
>
> I have found a fairly convenient way to deal with refueling. Instead of
the
> usual 5 gallon cans, I use 6 gallon red plastic boat tanks from Walmart.
> They are the right size to mix one pint per 6 gallons or a quart for two
> tanks to get your 50:1 mix. If you throw a towel up on the wing, you can
> set them on the wing and they are low profile (unlike the usual 5 gallon
> gas tanks) so that you can get the siphon in easily. I use a jiggle siphon
> -Northern sells them, so does Lockwood and CPS. The jiggle siphon comes
> with a 6' hose, and it works well.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> ---
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kolb Database |
From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
Great Site. Wish I knew about your site when I first started it would have
helped out a lot.
It looks like most paid for the poweder coating option. I think I will
alodine mine. I am wondering if it is possible to cover the tail while its
on the aircraft?
It looks like after I put the tail ring on inclusive of the primer and the
first coat of pain(t) it aint wanting to come off. :-)
I suppose I can bang it to get it off, but at present too timid to do it.
8/17/02 6:03dama
>
> This is a reminder of the builder/pilot database avialible at
> http://www.springeraviation.net/.
> There are a few new pics also. Also, everyone seems to have a way of
> pitching props and the method that I used on my new Powerfin using a laser
> pointer was easy and very accurate. Please Email for any details on that...
> Kip Laurie
> Firetstar II
> Atlanta
> dama(at)mindspring.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel transfer |
I took some photos while refueling the FireFly. If you are interested you can
see them at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly81.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transfer pump |
Moving gasoline by air pressure works but is illegal due to the extra
oxygenation given to the gas thus making it more volatile and explosive.
Check local safety regulations.
>What follows is an entirely safe pumping method having no electrical
>connections or batteries, just a bit of compressed air from a portable
>air tank. Since Im talking mostly to kit builders, Ill just give you
>the basic ideas and let you gather the materials from various sources.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel dolly |
>
>My Mark II is, at least for me, quite heavy on the tail end
MIne weighs about 120 lbs folded on the tail wheel. I removed the fabric
from the rear spar tube end and stick in a 1" tube as a handle to move it
around.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel transfer |
I turned my 5 gal FF fuel tank 90 CW (that's to-the-right fer all you
with digital watches) so that the filler cap is nearer the edge of the
cage. Makes it a little easier, but Jack Hart's slick setup is the best!
Bob N,
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel transfer |
Jack,
How many strokes does it take to transfer a gallon or 5 gallons.
Just a comment, if you dump your sloshing bottle contents in the main tank,
what do you do if you misestimate the amount of fuel required to fill the
main tank. I know your a very meticulous person but doesn't that leave the
possibility of having to much oil in the main tank... and then what do you
do. You could very easily do this on an XC flight or even at home refueling.
jerryb
>
>I took some photos while refueling the FireFly. If you are interested you
>can see them at:
>
>http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly81.html
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel transfer |
Jerry,
I will have to report back on how many stokes it takes to move a gallon of gas.
But thanks to Richard Pike, he identified the pump I use. It is the Han-D-Pump,
Model#: HP009 that he listed. They say it will transfer fuel at over one
gallon per minute. You can see a discription at:
http://www.instep.net/pages/product_display.php?manuf=1&prod_number=HP009
I have worried about making errors in oil/gas mixing, and I have defensed against
them by having two scales on my measuring bottle. A normal scale and an inverted
scale. If the gas tank indicates it has 1.25 gallons left in the tank,
I fill the oil bottle to 1.25 on the inverted scale and this gives me enough
oil for 3.75 gallons.
I added another picture to the html and some more explaination. If you would like
a scale for an 8 ounce medicine bottle for a 100 to 1 mix you can download
a copy.
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly81.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Jack,
>How many strokes does it take to transfer a gallon or 5 gallons.
>Just a comment, if you dump your sloshing bottle contents in the main tank,
>what do you do if you misestimate the amount of fuel required to fill the
>main tank. I know your a very meticulous person but doesn't that leave the
>possibility of having to much oil in the main tank... and then what do you
>do. You could very easily do this on an XC flight or even at home refueling.
>jerryb
>
>
>>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles" <chieppa47(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel transfer |
Hi All,
This fuel transfer thing has me thinking. I have tried the Hand Pump
several years ago, also call "The Petro Pump" takes forever. Don't get me
wrong here -- it will do the job and in some cases works out great. Did I
mention it takes forever?
There is a better way --- I am working on a pressure siphon system now and
will post results when it works. I have a 503 so oil mix is of no concern.
Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Fuel transfer |
Wouldn't an alligator clip grounding wire attached to the airplane take care
of the potential static spark problem from just about all of the refueling
methods?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel transfer |
that of course was the point of my original message. What ever method that
you use, you should be making sure that you ground it. I guess it is
supposed to be particularly dangerous with plastic tanks.
larry
----- Original Message -----
From: <SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel transfer
>
> Wouldn't an alligator clip grounding wire attached to the airplane take
care
> of the potential static spark problem from just about all of the refueling
> methods?
>
> Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
At the pig roast I flew a Mk111 into it the night before. The next day I
trailered my thunderbird in for display. Yes the rides I was giving was not
in the Thunderbird but the venerable mk 111.
I tried starting the Thunderbird today with no luck. The 582 barks a
bit and runs for a couple seconds after the starter is turned off but no
big fire up. If it had I would have been telling the list about my taxi
tests and probably about the good Canadian air that was seen under the
tires for a brief glorious moment. I will go by my old advise and put new
plugs in before I try anything else. The plugs are getting damp is all I
know about the situation right now. Do any list members have any ideas on
starting this engine that has sat for a few years. I spun it without plugs
for a few minutes to get good lube before reinstalling the plugs and trying
for the first fire up.
I am planning to take it to Kentucky if I can get some air time before
hand. If you have never been to Chestnut knolls once you lift off there is
nothing but trees for miles around except for that little patch you took
off from. Rather intimidating for a flat land farmer like me.
Never had the Jelly but my first shock was to find that you could not
buy beer there. The next year I brought my own and was going to share it
with Beauford but he made up some lame excuse about his buddy almost dying
and had to get him home. Good Canadian beer would have cured him. I hope to
see ya there. Everybody bring their own name tags. Kolb will not supply them.
>In the words of Jakov Smirnov "What a country!" It may be illegal to have
>air in Canada but I don't think so in the US. You said you trailered the
>T-bird and then said you gave rides - different plane?
>How close are we talkin about? Any chance you are trailerin down to
>KY. KY is nice but their jelly is terrible - ever tasted KY jelly? Bill
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
Subject: | Victor 1 - FireFly Progress Report - #2 |
>
>Jack,
>
>What's the latest on the italian engine?
>
>Gene
I have inquired about purchasing a smaller drive pulley to boost the
belt reduction from 1/2.7 to 1/3. This will let me add more pitch into
the propeller and should boost propeller efficiency.
I never thought when I took the 447 off on March 28th that it would take
so long to get to this day. It has been a great day.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
Jack,
Ivo had some problems years ago with running a 3 blade prop on
an engine with a 3/1 reduction. It set up some harsh harmonics that
cause a lot of movement between the prop blades and the hub plates.
Don't know if that will be a possible problem for you...just throwing
out a heads up for you....
Good luck and congratulations on the successful experimentin' sounds
like you'll have the most fuel efficient Kolb around.
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transfer pump |
Woody, below when you state using air pressure causes extra oxygenation, is
this from bubbles in the pumped fuel or to a higher density of air (oxygen)
in the refueling tank due to the air pressure developed in the plus that
fresh air diluting the fuel vapors to a more combustible ratio. Couldn't
nitrogen or carbon dioxide be used for creating the pressure.
jerryb
>
>
> Moving gasoline by air pressure works but is illegal due to the extra
>oxygenation given to the gas thus making it more volatile and explosive.
>Check local safety regulations.
>
>
> >What follows is an entirely safe pumping method having no electrical
> >connections or batteries, just a bit of compressed air from a portable
> >air tank. Since Im talking mostly to kit builders, Ill just give you
> >the basic ideas and let you gather the materials from various sources.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transfer pump--the rest of the story |
OK, I've spent an hour in researching the alleged dangers of pumping
gasoline
via low pressure air. As a writer, it makes a good short article.
The Debil is in the details, and defining what low pressure air is. If
you
have watched a pro use a W. Va credit card, they always use two hoses
and a
wet rag, stuffing one hose in the filler tube all the way to the bottom,
and
the other to just inside the neck. They then pack the wet rag around
the
two to seal them, and blow into the short hose to start the gas flowing,
after which 'siphon and gravity effect' take over. No muss, no fuss,
and no
gas on the breath if they want to smoke or get bounced by the 'Enforcers
of
Social Justice' (All gas thieves learn early not to steal gas outside a
donut store)
As with most urban legends, there is a bit of truth, but it soon gets
lost
in obtuse explanations.The problem is that most people can blow about a
pound or two per sq inch, blowing into a gas tank of, say, 2
foot by 3 foot at 2 lbs/in/sq, that would be 864 sq in times two pounds
of
up (and down) force on the top and bottom of the tank, and the
possibility
of rupture (of the tank, not the intern) is certainly to be reckoned
with.
During WW I, some airplanes used air pressure to get fuel
to the engine-- the Mercedes Benz engine even has a camshaft driven
pump.
Given the copper tanks and lines, and the fatigue problems associated
with
copper, it is no wonder they often went down in flames for no obvious
reason. A bullet hole anywhere, and the gas would pour out until the
pressure went away. Old race cars also pumped gas that way, that was
the
reason for riding mechanics in the early days of Indy.
Today, with the EPA mandated sealed auto fuel systems, we often have
pressurized
tanks just from the vapor pressure of the fuel, and the vapor pressure
of
car petrol is double that of Av gas.
So, not to worry. Up to the point of rupturing the container there
certainly
is no problem, and most Fuel Injection cars have an air filled pulse
damper
in the line between the pump and injector, they run at a minimum of 3
bar
(about 48 lb/in/sq,) and some as high as 6 bar.
I'm now trying to find the"regulations" that prohibit using low press.
air for pumping gas.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel transfer |
I like the filler handle.
I been toying about rigging some contraption up to allow me to pump fuel my
from 5 gallon Jerry jugs/cans in to the airplanes tank. Tried of the hoist
and balance on the wing or step ladder scenario.
I envision a small refueler cart with a platform that will position the jug
where on of the corners away from the nozzle opening will sit at the lower
level. The cart would have a battery, pump, and power switch in an
enclosed case. Hose connections will be thru explosion proof NEMA
connectors. A pick up hose would be weighted and inserted into low corner
of the jug. The output may go thru a filter. The output hose at the
filler end would have a handle like sold by Northern, the one jack
referenced or the small aluminum one they sell.
Was considering the air pressure thing but having second thoughts based
upon some of the comments over this topic. Diluting the vapor ratio to the
point of 15/1 from pumping air into a tank increases the potential for a
explosion. Looking for a 12 volt fuel pump that will pump in the
neighborhood of 60 to 120 gallons hour or 1-2 gallons minute. Some can
pump up a pressure in a closed circuit but can't produce much volume in a
open circuit. Would like to be at least as fast and siphoning with the
tank sitting on the wing.
Any body know of any site that has specs on the Facet fuel pumps?
jerryb
>
>Jerry,
>
>I will have to report back on how many stokes it takes to move a gallon of
>gas. But thanks to Richard Pike, he identified the pump I use. It is the
>Han-D-Pump, Model#: HP009 that he listed. They say it will transfer fuel
>at over one gallon per minute. You can see a discription at:
>
>http://www.instep.net/pages/product_display.php?manuf=1&prod_number=HP009
>
>I have worried about making errors in oil/gas mixing, and I have defensed
>against them by having two scales on my measuring bottle. A normal scale
>and an inverted scale. If the gas tank indicates it has 1.25 gallons left
>in the tank, I fill the oil bottle to 1.25 on the inverted scale and this
>gives me enough oil for 3.75 gallons.
>
>I added another picture to the html and some more explaination. If you
>would like a scale for an 8 ounce medicine bottle for a 100 to 1 mix you
>can download a copy.
>
>http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly81.html
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
> >
> >Jack,
> >How many strokes does it take to transfer a gallon or 5 gallons.
> >Just a comment, if you dump your sloshing bottle contents in the main tank,
> >what do you do if you misestimate the amount of fuel required to fill the
> >main tank. I know your a very meticulous person but doesn't that leave the
> >possibility of having to much oil in the main tank... and then what do you
> >do. You could very easily do this on an XC flight or even at home
> refueling.
> >jerryb
> >
> >
> >>
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Lawton" <skyrider(at)pgtv.net> |
Subject: | Fuel Transfer Tank & Pump |
Although some may feel it's a bit pricey, I guess it just depends on how
much you fly as to whether you can justify this item. Here's a helpfull
link:
http://www.skilimited.com/product.asp?clickpath=&base%5Fno=DD%2DGP1&str%5Fba
se%5Fno=2RB%2DGT%2CBM%2D35723%2CDD%2DGP1%2CGA%2D117%2CXAT%2D30%2CXMG%2D007%2
CXST%2D7820%2CXST%2D84516%2CXSW%2D16H%2CXSW%2D26H%2CXTA%2D086%2CXTA%2D96000%
2CXTE%2DGW%2C&header%5Ftitle=Keyword+Search&page%5Fname=search%2Fkeyword%5Fr
esults%2Easp&search%5Ftype=Gas&size1=&size2=&gender=0&ShowImages=yes&sq=0&co
nt=1&intPgNo=1&mscssid=TLU9N58AFVQG8K33LK7DC6X319N3A7B5
You might have to cut and paste the link into your browser's URL
window......
There are also other products like "Gas Caddy" and "Gas Buddy" that have
similar hand pumps. I've used a homemade handtruck with a 3 step welded
ladder that has a 12 volt pump, battery and hose installed to it for nearly
20 years to fuel many different ultralights. Will try to get a picture of
it to post soon.
Safe Flying,
Doug Lawton
NE Georgia and Whitwell, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Lawton" <skyrider(at)pgtv.net> |
Subject: | Fuel Transfer Cans and Pumps |
Also, Ski Limited carries the "Gas Walker" which is a 29 gallon model:
http://www.skilimited.com/product.asp?clickpath=&base%5Fno=XTE%2DGW&str%5Fba
se%5Fno=2RB%2DGT%2CBM%2D35723%2CDD%2DGP1%2CGA%2D117%2CXAT%2D30%2CXMG%2D007%2
CXST%2D7820%2CXST%2D84516%2CXSW%2D16H%2CXSW%2D26H%2CXTA%2D086%2CXTA%2D96000%
2CXTE%2DGW%2C&header%5Ftitle=Keyword+Search&page%5Fname=search%2Fkeyword%5Fr
esults%2Easp&search%5Ftype=Gas&size1=&size2=&gender=0&ShowImages=yes&sq=8&co
nt=1&intPgNo=2&mscssid=TLU9N58AFVQG8K33LK7DC6X319N3A7B5
I have a friend that has this model for his boats. He's had some problems
with the hose attachment where it leaves the bottom side of the tank. It
kinks after a year or so of use and then starts leaking. He's replaced the
hose with a HD one this summer, so far, no problems.
Safe Flying,
Doug Lawton
NE Georgia and Whitwell, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | 447 Rotax Engine for Sale |
Rotax 447 engine for sale.
Actual flight hours - 79
Asking price - $1400
Complete history available
Engine Features
B gear box
FireFly engine mount
Muffler mounted
Dual EGT sensors
Dual HT sensors
No points
Deficiency
Needs new heavy spring
for fuel enrichment
valve in Bing Carb
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
I'm curious about the operation of the flap handle relating to
co-ordination. On the Mark 3 if the flaps are lowered, right hand
operation of the flap handle would mean the left hand would be on the
control stick. Otherwise, you would have to reach across with the left
hand to operate the flap handle. Is this difficult to master or does it
come naturally? How do you guys do it? Left/right or right/left? Then
what about the throttle position? How is that manipulated?
..........snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Subject: | Noise reduction - try 199 dollar ANR's |
Try attacking the problem from the other end. Lightspeed engineering is
offering factory rebuilt, full warrantee ANR Noise Reduction QFR Solo
headsets for 199.00. Any attempt to mask the noise on the airplane will
most certainly add weight or make inspection of critical components
difficult or may even trap moisture. Buy some 200 dollar ANR's and enjoy
life. Call Lightspeed's 800 phone number and ask for the factory
rebuilds.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Put new plugs in the 582 today and tried starting. No luck. I pulled the
bowl off the PTO end carb and it was full of pure 2 cycle oil. What caused
this? Regular gas in the other bowl. After dumping the oil and switching
bowls I was able to get the engine started for a minute or so but it would
not run fast or smooth. Any ideas? Tomorrow I will clean and rebuild the carbs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transfer pump--the rest of the story |
>
>I'm now trying to find the"regulations" that prohibit using low press.
>air for pumping gas.
>
>Bob N.
Good luck in your search. The articles I read were from the 80's
probably Glider rider or Ultralight planes.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Do you use premix or injection?
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Injected synthetic. How do I adjust the mix ratio on the engine to use
the higher ratio oils?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
If you are using the injection system, the checkvalve in the oilsupply line
going to the PTO cyl. is stuck open and needs to be replaced. It should hold
at least 5 ich of mercury for several minutes.
Been there done that
Frank Reynen MKIII
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: 582 startup
>
>
> Put new plugs in the 582 today and tried starting. No luck. I pulled
the
> bowl off the PTO end carb and it was full of pure 2 cycle oil. What caused
> this? Regular gas in the other bowl. After dumping the oil and switching
> bowls I was able to get the engine started for a minute or so but it would
> not run fast or smooth. Any ideas? Tomorrow I will clean and rebuild the
carbs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Subject: | 582 startup oh woe is me |
Tried starting my 582 again this evening. Fired right up and then
stopped dead. Seized tighter than a drum. After a few well intended curses
we removed the engine and before we did anything else we pulled the
gearbox. Like a miracle the engine rotated freely. The output shaft of the
gearbox rotated freely. A close inspection revealed the inside bearing had
given up. There was almost a 1/8 play up and down and I could almost
rotate the center race out. Is there a simple way of getting that bearing out?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Roll around gas station. |
I made a portable gas station using a 35 gallon poly barrel that I obtained
from the local weed sprayer - they get dye in the barrels to add to the
poison to see where they spray. Dye is water soluble so wash out with soap
and water. Then rinse with gasoline. I got a small hand cart from local
farm supply $22 and strapped the barrel to the cart. Add a Northern pump of
your choice and you have a roll around gas station for less than $50 (barrel
was free). Also added a wire with an alligator clip to the pump so I can
ground the aircraft tank to the pump.
Picture upon request.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 8/19/02 6:14:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
> If you are using the injection system, the checkvalve in the oilsupply line
> going to the PTO cyl. is stuck open and needs to be replaced. It should
> hold
> at least 5 ich of mercury for several minutes.
> Been there done that
> Frank Reynen MKIII
>
Frank,
What was the result of the failure of the check valve that you mentioned?
Steven Green
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Kolbers,
All the talk about fueling Kolbs and no one has mentioned the method I use.
(probably too complicated or too expensive)
I purchased a 4' long piece of 3/4" vinyl clear tubing at Lowes for a dollar
or two. This fits snugly over the spout of the 5 and 6 gallon fuel cans that
Walmart sells. I cut a piece of 3/4" aluminum tubing 3" long and inserted
1-1/2" in one end of the hose and clamped it. This is the discharge end that
goes in the plane tank. With the hose in the tank I pick up the can and it
takes about a minute to transfer 5 gallons and the hose is long enough to
stand in front of the wing while refueling. after fueling the plane the ends
of the hose are stuck together to prevent dirt from getting inside the hose.
I told you it was complicated.
Steven Green
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Olenik" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
Subject: | 582 startup oh woe is me |
Which bearing and which gearbox? Most of them are pressed out, but some of
them will fall out if you stick the box in an oven or at least make them
easy to push out. It's real easy to crack a gearbox housing if you don't do
it right. So be careful. Probably should replace the seals in the box
while you are at it.
If there is one thing that I would change with the Rotax gearboxes, it would
be to make them more like the 2SI gearbox. With that box, it splits sort of
like the crankcase does on the Rotax engines. So there is no pressing
required to take the prop shaft or bearings out.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com/rotax.htm
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com/2si-engines.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Woody
Subject: Kolb-List: 582 startup oh woe is me
Tried starting my 582 again this evening. Fired right up and then
stopped dead. Seized tighter than a drum. After a few well intended curses
we removed the engine and before we did anything else we pulled the
gearbox. Like a miracle the engine rotated freely. The output shaft of the
gearbox rotated freely. A close inspection revealed the inside bearing had
given up. There was almost a 1/8 play up and down and I could almost
rotate the center race out. Is there a simple way of getting that bearing
out?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Steve
I also found oil in one carb after sitting for several weeks and changed out
the checkvalve with a new one .What I failed to notice was that the new
checkvalve never worked right and an airbubble stayed in the line and the
affected cylinder never got any oil and caused the big-end bearing to fry
and piston seizure with a subsequent forced landing. I removed the entire
injection system and went to CPS and checked about 5 valves before finding
two good ones that would open properly and held about 5 inch of mercury for
several minutes. After assembling the pump and valves I ran the pump on the
bench with a drill motor for 15 minutes to verify that the two outlets had
the same oilflow before bolting every thing back to the 582. No more
problems afterwards.
Frank
----- Original Message -----
From: <SGreenpg(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 582 startup
>
> In a message dated 8/19/02 6:14:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com writes:
>
>
> > If you are using the injection system, the checkvalve in the oilsupply
line
> > going to the PTO cyl. is stuck open and needs to be replaced. It should
> > hold
> > at least 5 ich of mercury for several minutes.
> > Been there done that
> > Frank Reynen MKIII
> >
>
> Frank,
> What was the result of the failure of the check valve that you mentioned?
>
> Steven Green
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles" <chieppa47(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Transfer |
Steven,
TopGun set this method up 3 years ago and I posted my refinements just the
other day. (well still working on them) I too am using the siphon method
and with the simple plumbing setup I can remove fuel from any KOLB system.
As well as refuel with speed and ease. No elec. pumps or the slower hand
pumps are used. You can see the setup in Sept. at The New KOLB Aircraft get
together.
Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Transfer |
> All the talk about fueling Kolbs and no one has mentioned the method I use.
> (probably too complicated or too expensive)
> Steven Green
Steven/Gents:
Wrong. :-)
I posted a msg last Wed about my 6' X 1" ID vinyl hose I
stick on the end of the spout of my Wal*Mart Rubber Maid 5
gal gas cans.
I also use a piece of alum tubing stuck in one end as a
connector for the other end when not in use. This keeps the
hose clean inside.
I have to fill on top of the center section, about 10
o'clock position from the engine. Six ft hose allows me to
put one end of hose in the filler neck and the other on the
gas tank spout, with the can sitting on the ground. At 63 I
can still lift the can over my head, most of the time
hehehe. If I get to the point that I can't lift 5 gal, will
buy me some 2.5 gal cans.
Only take a minute or two to get the job done. Normally,
when flying around the local area, I fuel up with 5 or ten
gal of gas. However, when getting ready to do a serious
cross country, it may take 4 or 5, 5 gal cans, to get the
tank topped off. Dribbling it in with a small fuel pump
ain't gonna get the job done for me. :-) Never timed how
long it takes to dump a 5 gal can, but it is only a minute
or two.
Toss the hose in the airplane, and when I get to a place
where I can get auto fuel, it is simple to stick the hose on
the local guys can and refuel. Without the hose, on top of
the tail boom, hugging the hot SS exhaust system, man
handling a 5 gal can, it is extremely difficult to hit that
little hole where the fuel goes in the airplane. Not fun at
all.
Quick figuring at 5 gal an hour for 1,700 hours, equals
about 8,500 gals.. Now, I am not saying I picked up and
poured that much fuel in my Mark III, cause some of that
fuel was 100LL purchased on XC's. But the majority of that
fuel was hand loaded into the airplane. I think my system
works, as long as I can put the can over my head. When it
gets to the point that I can't lift a 2.5 can, then I am
gonna get me a refueling station like the rest of you guys.
Take care,
john h
PS: Got a bc note from Big Lar. He finally made it to
Hyder, Alaska, southernmost town in Alaska. He sent me a
picture of a grizzily bear feeding on salmon a couple miles
north of the village, in Fish Creek. I am sure he would not
mind I share it with you all:
http://hawk36.home.mindspring.com/Larry%20Bourne%202002/Ozzie%20&%20His%20Salmon.JPG
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
08/20/2002 11:57:02 AM
> --to buy a radio, handheld
> naturally.--and I would appreciate any info as to which brand is
> best at ignoring ignition noise.
When researching radios in 1998, I discovered one factor which pushed me to
the Yaesu. I wanted the ability to charge the radio while it is being
used. In other words, power in 12 volts from plane power system, while
operating radio, and internal battery is also charging. At the time I
purchased, the available competitor's radios did not do this. Because the
radio has this feature, I use it anytime I want and never have to purposely
plug it in over night to recharge it. It is always ready, because it
charges while I use it in the air. Your needs may vary. Also, today's
radios may differ. This info is from 1998.
While on radio subject, our tests of rubber-duckie antenna versus a
solid-wire antenna with ground plane and tuned with SWR meter, have shown
almost no real advantage to having an antenna in the airstream. Both
transmitted/received about 20 miles, outside antenna slightly cleaner, but
both useable.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: noise rejection |
> Gadget gurus, my brother has kindly offered to buy a radio, handheld
> naturally.--and I would appreciate any info as to which brand is
> best at ignoring ignition noise. A long time ago the King was superior
> in that respect, but now????? thanx -BB
BB/Gents:
I started out with an STS, then a King KX 99, and now an
ICOM A3. This has been over a 16 year period. I didn't
have a radio in my Ultrastar. The Icom A3, I bought it last
year.
KX 99 was an excellent performing radio, but cost to much to
repair. It is not in production at this time. STS went
belly up years ago.
The ICOM A3 works well, is a very small package, especially
with the battery removed, which is the way I use it. Have
it mounted to the old radio mount, minus battery. Operates
off the aircraft 12VDC bat. It is VHF comm only. I don't
have any need for VOR, which normally does not work well
with hand held radios. The A3 was the cheapest radio
available from a recognized company, about $300.00 including
the head set adapter which is necessary to wire the radio
into the intercom and aircraft system.
Engine noise is best dealt with rather than trying to find a
radio that overcomes it. Not much problem on our newer
generation engines with CDI ign. I find a large capacitor,
22,000 MF works well and can be purchased at Radio Shack or
other electornic supply houses. This soaks up a lot of
alternator noise that is commonly misdiagnosed as ign
noise. Resistor type plugs also soak up ign noise.
Resistor plugs also work well with stock Rotax spark plug
terminals that have some noise suppression built in. You
can not tell the difference, performance wise, between
resistor or non resistor type plugs.
Using a battery powered aircraft system also helps
controlling ign noise.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel transfer |
>Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 10:43:01 -0500
>
>Jerry,
>
>I will have to report back on how many stokes it takes to move a gallon of gas.
But thanks to Richard Pike, he identified the pump I use. It is the Han-D-Pump,
Model#: HP009 that he listed. They say it will transfer fuel at over one
gallon per minute.
>
Jerry,
It takes sixty full strokes to pump one gallon of gas.
At this time I have 83 hours on the FireFly. Assuming a conservative average of
2.5 gph, it calculates out to about 208 gallons this pump has transfered.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Gang:
Was curious if anyone has any hard information on an actual
ultralight fueling accident causing fire by static
discharge???
Cumulatively, the ultralight/light plane community fuels
thousands of gallons of auto fuel into their fuel tanks with
plastic gas cans. I fuel my airplane, boat, tractor, and
all the other implements of destruction operated by auto
fuel. No static lines, simply open the tank and pour it in.
In VN we fueled "hot", bringing the turbines back to flight
idle, pumping JP4 through a hose and nozzle as big as your
leg. We always used static lines hooked to the aircraft and
ground. Don't know of any fires in my area, 101st Airborne
Division, I Corps area of operation. There probably were
some, but I didn't hear about them.
Just curious...........
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: static electricity fires |
From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
08/20/2002 07:45:13 PM
See http://www.esdjournal.com/static/refuelfr.htm for cases of fires caused
by static electricity discharge. I believe these are all automobile
related, but the potential is still there.
On a related subject, I tried to purchase a few small gas containers the
other day here in California. There are none to be found, reportedly none
the entire state, except for the so-called explosion proof kind that come
with self-closing lids. Seems that EPA has recalled them ALL. Not clear
on the exact reason, something about spills or fumes I think. Regulation
overkill?
regards,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
Santa Barbara, California 93117
Tel: 805-964-6010
fax: 805-964 0259
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Handling |
No UL but one involving GA. Don't think them static sparks can tell the
difference though.
A friends brother and a couple others were refueling a GA aircraft from a
55 gal plastic barrel in back of a pickup. I can't recall what they were
using to transfer the fuel, I believe it was a crank hand pump but the
barrel was not sealed. Something caused a spark and next thing they knew
the barrel was on fire. It flared up so quickly that the guy was caught by
the sudden ball of fire and was burned on the face and upper body. This
was right about the time they had started running auto fuel (early/mid
90's) and were warning people not to refuel from external plastic jugs and
barrels. What got my attention was their telling how quickly it flared up
without any chance of escape. This is why I prefer not to refuel in a
hangar.
jerryb
>
>Gang:
>
>Was curious if anyone has any hard information on an actual
>ultralight fueling accident causing fire by static
>discharge???
>
>Cumulatively, the ultralight/light plane community fuels
>thousands of gallons of auto fuel into their fuel tanks with
>plastic gas cans. I fuel my airplane, boat, tractor, and
>all the other implements of destruction operated by auto
>fuel. No static lines, simply open the tank and pour it in.
>
>In VN we fueled "hot", bringing the turbines back to flight
>idle, pumping JP4 through a hose and nozzle as big as your
>leg. We always used static lines hooked to the aircraft and
>ground. Don't know of any fires in my area, 101st Airborne
>Division, I Corps area of operation. There probably were
>some, but I didn't hear about them.
>
>Just curious...........
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fuel Handling |
A friends brother and a couple others were refueling a GA aircraft from a
> 55 gal plastic barrel in back of a pickup. I can't recall what they were
> using to transfer the fuel, I believe it was a crank hand pump but the
> barrel was not sealed. Something caused a spark and next thing they knew
I wonder if it was a spark or spilled fuel dripping through the truck bed
onto a hot exhaust of a running truck? Or even just fumes. Exon and other
oil companies have rules about running engines around potential leaks of
fuel and fumes. I know one guy that payed very dearly for ignoring those
rules because it just never happened to anybody. He still works for Exon but
as a safety advisor now. Can't ever do his old job again. To many muscles
burned away......snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
My 2 cents. War hero Wannabees have always existed and their lies
perish with them. The truth of the heroes exists in the hearts and minds
of their fellow soldiers. Imitation is the most sincere form of
flattery. Beneath this imposters facade lays one simple truth. He chose
the role he did because he has a deep , profound, sense of awe and
respect for the one he pretends to be. ............snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Elevator trim control |
I hope this is not one of those "dumb" questions.
My concern is the tension on the spring (controlled by the trim control
lever) .
Should the trim control lever be in the "neutral" position as I rig the cable
( from the elevator)? Perhaps the prints and/or instructions address this,
but not clearly.
Thanks,
Tom Neenan
Mark lll Serial #006
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transfer pump |
To make a very bad pun, I'm sincerely sorry that some of my poor
refueling actions have caused the
Flames that have accrued to this thread.
Lemme say a few things: I asked a former list member about dangers of
pushing fuel with low pressure air. "I'll give you the Short Answer,
from the perspective of a graduate chemical
engineer that 'worked in gasoline' at Shell Oil's Norco, LA refinery:
In my considered opinion, there's no significant danger in what you're
doing.
if you're using a plastic container, I'd be more concerned about
accidentally
rupturing the tank than creating a vapor bomb."
Further, as I reported earlier, compressed air has been used in autos
and planes.
And, to end the argy-bargy concerning the pressure of air that humans
can produce: in a steady state effort--not just trying to blow as hard
as possible--the corrected figure is about 0.3 psi. However, I took an
old pressure gauge that reads up to 20 psi, and using my going-on-80
lungs, pushed it a bit past 1 psi (anyone who says i'm an old blowhard
is a bad functional word).
Continuing: Water pressure is .43 pounds per foot, and petrol is about
.75 the
density of water, then if it is possible to blow into a tank more than
three
feet high, we must be able to make over a pound! At the maintenace shop
guys
regularly blow into 50 gallon drums that are almost empty to get out
the last few pints,
and they (the drums, not the people) are about 40 inches tall. So my
bottled low pressure of
2psi will/has delivered fuel with a rise of about 6 feet. And I don't
use funnels,
not even Missus Funnel
In closing, I should have used friend John's closing admonition: works
fer me,
trying it is up to you.
Bob N.
pee ess
I surely would have sworn we had avgas on carriers in The Big One. Left
the coal oil on the farm.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator trim control |
Good question. When the lever is all the way forward, and your elevator is
neutral, there should be slack in the tension. Then as you begin to pull
the trim lever back, it immediately starts to take up the slack and put
spring pressure to hold the elevators up. That is how I have mine, and when
taking a large adult with me, I am using full up trim at takeoff, then down
about two notches at cruise.
Solo, it is normally all the way forward. You can fine tune your trim by
how you adjust the flaps. (Check the archives)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>I hope this is not one of those "dumb" questions.
>
>My concern is the tension on the spring (controlled by the trim control
>lever) .
>Should the trim control lever be in the "neutral" position as I rig the cable
>( from the elevator)? Perhaps the prints and/or instructions address this,
>but not clearly.
>
>Thanks,
>Tom Neenan
>Mark lll Serial #006
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Fuel Handling |
From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
Well John, I agree that being overly cautious is inefficient way of going
about our business. On the other hand being reckless is also a very
inefficient way of going about our business. A volatile compound such as
Mogas and under pressure is a bomb. It does not take much to set it off. I
would also venture to say that considering the low tech and backyard nature
of our flying, not much investigatin' will be going especially by me,, if
something cought on fire, or blew up. I doubt the insurers will pay anything
if I tell them presuming I am still alive, that "I was fueling my flying
contraption with gasoline which was under pressure", and would further tell
them "I thought it was perfectly safe, I did it a couple of hundereds of
times before". Just imagine the look on the Fire Marshals face. However I am
a true Libertarian and I would never presume to cramp anyones style, with
the caveat that they are a safe distance from me. :-)
Btw I recall being warned to ground a chopper before grabbing the hook on
account of a great amount of static electricity.
Ron
8/20/02 16:38John Hauck
> Tim/Gents:
>
> Wonder what the Navy did before the days of jets and
> turbines?
>
> Even after jets and turbines, the H-34 (don't know what the
> Navy nomenclature was) was a big recip, av gas fueled
> monster.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
> >
>What part of 50:1 needs adjusting?
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
The part where you go to 100 : 1 synthetic ratios.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Subject: | 582 startup oh woe is me |
>
>
>Which bearing and which gearbox? Most of them are pressed out, but some of
>them will fall out if you stick the box in an oven or at least make them
>easy to push out. It's real easy to crack a gearbox housing if you don't do
>it right. So be careful. Probably should replace the seals in the box
>while you are at it.
It is the internal bearing 6304. I popped it out with a bit of heat and
an internal bearing puller. I am changing the other bearing and seal also
while I am at it. Don't want to do half a job. I don't know what gear box
it is. how do I tell? I pulled the oil pump off today and will check it out
tomorrow. The check valves are in the oil pump?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Grey Baron Bomber |
Bob/List
I'm glad that you ignited a discussion on potential fuel explosions.
One of the purposes of this list is to discuss safety. To be vigilant
and analyze our fueling practices is immensily important. As you had
stated earlier, if I'm doing something dangerous I want to know. An
honest open discussion about how we get gassed can often times
illuminate dangerous practices and careless habits. The point isn't to
be right but to be safe. This list is a cheap and easy way to learn.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bill-jo" <bill-jo(at)prodigy.net> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator trim control |
Very good answer Richard, that is the way I have mine also.
Bill Futrell
MK111Xtra #0007
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator trim control
>
> Good question. When the lever is all the way forward, and your elevator is
> neutral, there should be slack in the tension. Then as you begin to pull
> the trim lever back, it immediately starts to take up the slack and put
> spring pressure to hold the elevators up. That is how I have mine, and
when
> taking a large adult with me, I am using full up trim at takeoff, then
down
> about two notches at cruise.
> Solo, it is normally all the way forward. You can fine tune your trim by
> how you adjust the flaps. (Check the archives)
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >
> >I hope this is not one of those "dumb" questions.
> >
> >My concern is the tension on the spring (controlled by the trim control
> >lever) .
> >Should the trim control lever be in the "neutral" position as I rig the
cable
> >( from the elevator)? Perhaps the prints and/or instructions address
this,
> >but not clearly.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Tom Neenan
> >Mark lll Serial #006
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 26 Msgs - 08/20/02 |
I'm starting to get "gas" just reading all about this. I hope there arn't
any sparks around this chair in front of this computer ? Wonder what the
oxygen level is in the room, am I ok with my sneakers on ? Only kidding
guys!!
Flying has been great around the "Catskill Mts." this summer. Hope all of
the Kolb flyers are having a safe and fun flying season.
Bob Griffin
Kolb MK3
618-- 133 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Transfer pump |
One thing to remember is gasoline vapor has a much higher molecular weight that
oxygen so that it is not going to readily mix in a 14 to one ration that will
explode in a gas tank. This is why electrical potentiometers used for fuel gage
sensors and electric pumps are placed directly in the gas tank.
The problem is at the gas tank outlet interface with the open air. As one fills
the tank the heavy gasoline fumes are forced out of the tank and at some point
in this interface fresh air the mixture will be explosive.
Years ago when they started putting gas water heaters in garages, there were fires
from leaky car gasoline tanks. The fumes would slowly blanket the floor and
build in depth until they reached the pilot light and a fire would commence.
Now they require that all garage gas water heaters be place on a stand that
holds them about two feet or so above the floor.
On the FireFly the feed line passes through the top of the tank and it is metal,
so clipping onto the right angle fitting is probably the best place to ground
to or ground it to the cage.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Don't think you would have a back flow problem of getting gas fumes into
>your air tank as long as you had any positive pressure greater than ambient
>atmosphere. Simple fix, use a check value if your concerned. A tire pump
>could work as it shouldn't require much pressure to establish a flow out of
>the jug. You wouldn't want to over pressurize a jug or it might burst.
>jerryb
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | radios and antennas. |
While on radio subject, our tests of rubber-duckie antenna
versus a
solid-wire antenna with ground plane and tuned with SWR
meter, have shown
almost no real advantage to having an antenna in the
airstream. Both
transmitted/received about 20 miles, outside antenna
slightly cleaner, but
both useable.
Jim Gerken
======================================
jim with the coax dipole that i use i have talked to another
ga plane at about 120 miles.... his signal report was "
you have plenty of signal stregnth but there seems to be a
lot of background noise.." the background noise is
understandable..... and the signal stregnth is produced
with only a 1 watt radio..... my vote is for something
better than a rubber duck. and the antenna is not in the
slip streem... it is mounted inside the nosecone.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: radios and antennas. |
With my Kenwood walki-talki and rubber ducky I can work the local repeater
reliably within about a 10 mile radius. With the same radio hooked to my 1/4
wave mag mount on my truck, I can double that figure easily on transmit and
3-4 times that on recieve. 2.5 watts....Of course I have a pretty decent
ground plane in the truck and wouldn't have as good of one in the Kolb. A
nice sized sheet of aluminum in the gap seal with a quarter wave verticle in
the center may work very nicely..Snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
Help!!!!
I'm in the process of decarbonizing my Rotax 447. It appears like it would
be a lot easier to remove the pistons to bead blast them (use plastic bed
and protect the skirt).
Anybody with experience removing and reinstalling Rotax pistons mind
sharing your experience and some do's and don'ts. Never done it nor seen
it done so I'm about nervous as a cat walking through a junk
yard. Messing with those needle bearings make me very apprehensive.
Here's what tools I have for doing this operation: CPS Wrist Pin Puller,
Rotax CirClip Clip Installer, and Rotax Cageless Bearing Installer.
Do you advise removing the pistons?
By doing so am I likely to encounter bearing problems from doing it?
On the 447, do you have to remove the cast aluminum fan housing plate to
gain adequate access to the Mag end piston?
Email me you comments and if don't mind a call, your phone number.
Thanks,
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Jerry,
I don't want to start a flame war, but if you had been doing regular Seafoam treatments
as described in the archives, you would not have to do this work.
Keep the carbon out, do a Seafoam treatment every 25 hours. I have Seafoam soaking
in the rear cylinder as we speak and will blow it out this weekend before
going to the big Wanamingo fly-in on Sunday.
I like a clean 2-stroke. Keeps me out of trouble.
(Non believers can ignore this post).
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
Help!!!!
I'm in the process of decarbonizing my Rotax 447. It appears like it would
be a lot easier to remove the pistons to bead blast them (use plastic bed
and protect the skirt).
Anybody with experience removing and reinstalling Rotax pistons mind
sharing your experience and some do's and don'ts. Never done it nor seen
it done so I'm about nervous as a cat walking through a junk
yard. Messing with those needle bearings make me very apprehensive.
Here's what tools I have for doing this operation: CPS Wrist Pin Puller,
Rotax CirClip Clip Installer, and Rotax Cageless Bearing Installer.
Do you advise removing the pistons?
By doing so am I likely to encounter bearing problems from doing it?
On the 447, do you have to remove the cast aluminum fan housing plate to
gain adequate access to the Mag end piston?
Email me you comments and if don't mind a call, your phone number.
Thanks,
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
>
>Help!!!!
>I'm in the process of decarbonizing my Rotax 447. It appears like it would
>be a lot easier to remove the pistons to bead blast them (use plastic bed
>and protect the skirt).
I don't think you want to bead blast your pistons.
Like Mike Stratman says in the following link: "The real temptation
Is to just blast the deposits off the piston. Fact is this will actually
ruin the piston. Run you finger nail lightly down the sides of a
piston. Notice the fine knurled finish. This finish allows a thin
film of oil to sit on this surface where it reduces friction with the
Cylinder walls. Remove this knurled finish and the piston is Junk"
http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part47.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
Subject: | Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
I've been following this decarbonizing string for awhile and I understand
the problem and the solution but I'm a newbie to 2 strokes. Where does one
get this seafoam and do the directions for its use come with it? do not
archive
Dale Sellers
Georgia Ultra Star
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Subject: Re:Kolb-List: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons
Jerry,
I don't want to start a flame war, but if you had been doing regular Seafoam
treatments as described in the archives, you would not have to do this work.
Keep the carbon out, do a Seafoam treatment every 25 hours. I have Seafoam
soaking in the rear cylinder as we speak and will blow it out this weekend
before going to the big Wanamingo fly-in on Sunday.
I like a clean 2-stroke. Keeps me out of trouble.
(Non believers can ignore this post).
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
Help!!!!
I'm in the process of decarbonizing my Rotax 447. It appears like it would
be a lot easier to remove the pistons to bead blast them (use plastic bed
and protect the skirt).
Anybody with experience removing and reinstalling Rotax pistons mind
sharing your experience and some do's and don'ts. Never done it nor seen
it done so I'm about nervous as a cat walking through a junk
yard. Messing with those needle bearings make me very apprehensive.
Here's what tools I have for doing this operation: CPS Wrist Pin Puller,
Rotax CirClip Clip Installer, and Rotax Cageless Bearing Installer.
Do you advise removing the pistons?
By doing so am I likely to encounter bearing problems from doing it?
On the 447, do you have to remove the cast aluminum fan housing plate to
gain adequate access to the Mag end piston?
Email me you comments and if don't mind a call, your phone number.
Thanks,
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Grey Baron Bomber |
On a related topic. I have recently seen literature concerning fires started
by static electricity while people were filling fuel containers sitting in
the back of pick-ups with plastic bed liners. It seem that the plastic bed
liner lets a considerable amount of static electricity build up. Since we
need some means of getting the fuel from the gas station to our planes, I
thought this might be important.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles" <chieppa47(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lite Speed Aviation |
Hi All,
So is Lite Speed Aviation up and running? The email address is not working
and there web page comes up N/G! Will try calling this Friday ---
Charles
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
I've been following this decarbonizing string for awhile and I understand
the problem and the solution but I'm a newbie to 2 strokes. Where does one
get this seafoam and do the directions for its use come with it? do not
archive
Dale Sellers
Georgia Ultra Star
Dale and others,
Seafoam is made for autos and other engines that have metal fuel tanks. I don't
like the idea of using it in the poly tank on my Firestar. Even though it may
not affect it in any way, I don't want to find out in the air. This is why I
use it in the cylinders only and it seems to do the job as I expect it. I've been
using it for 4 years now and have about 300 hours on this 447. The cylinders
and rings are like new when I peer inside every spring with the exhaust manifold
off.
For those that don't know, I use Klotz KL-216 synthetic 2-stroke oil too (50:1
premix).
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
Jerry and Group,
You do not need to remove the fan housing plate.
You do need to remove the pistons.
The CPS catalog should describe the detail of how to remove the pistons,
decarbon and reinstall.
Make sure that you protect the case from bearing or foreign matter with
something like clean rags. (Don't let anthing fall in the case.)
One thing that I have done is to let the pistons soak in carb cleaner
for a couple of days. It makes it a lot easier. Removing the carbon is a
slow process at best, but without a long soak, it can be much worse.
John Jung
jerryb wrote:
>
>Help!!!!
>I'm in the process of decarbonizing my Rotax 447
>
snip..........
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clive Hatcher" <clive_hatcher(at)lineone.net> |
Subject: | Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
Jerryb,
I have no experience of the 447, however I have
done many de-carbs on 582's 432's and 503's and
the key to removing the piston safely is a wrist
pin puller that replaces the wrist pin in the
needle rollers by a plastic "keeper". The piston
can then be lifted off with the needle bearings
and plastic keeper remaining in the connecting
rod. If the Rotax Cageless Bearing Installer that
you have does this, then the job is straight
forward. If not I can send you drawings of one
for a 582 which you could change the dimensions of
to suit the 447.
I would not bead blast the top of the pistons as
this carbon is fairly easy to remove, but the most
important job is to remove all carbon deposits on
the piston rings and in the grooves. Piston ring
sticking is more likely to give engine problems
than the carbon build-up on the crown.
During re-assembly it is important that the piston
is fitted the correct way round, the rings are
seated against the small location pins, and the
barrel aligned correctly and not twisted too much
whilst the piston is pushed in. This ensures that
the ends of the piston rings do not catch in the
transfer ports during the assembly. Also make sure
that the wrist pin circlips are fully seated in
their groove. I have seen several damaged pistons
and bores where the circlip has worked out whilst
the engine was running!
Hope that this helps.
Clive Hatcher Mk III/582 UK
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Kolb-List: Need guidance on removal of
Rotax 447 Pistons
I'm in the process of decarbonizing my Rotax 447.
It appears like it would
be a lot easier to remove the pistons to bead
blast them (use plastic bed
and protect the skirt).
Anybody with experience removing and reinstalling
Rotax pistons mind
sharing your experience and some do's and don'ts.
Never done it nor seen
it done so I'm about nervous as a cat walking
through a junk
yard. Messing with those needle bearings make me
very apprehensive.
Here's what tools I have for doing this operation:
CPS Wrist Pin Puller,
Rotax CirClip Clip Installer, and Rotax Cageless
Bearing Installer.
Do you advise removing the pistons?
Thanks,
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
>
> >
> >Help!!!!
> >I'm in the process of decarbonizing my Rotax 447. It appears like it would
> >be a lot easier to remove the pistons to bead blast them (use plastic bed
> >and protect the skirt).
>
>I don't think you want to bead blast your pistons.
>Like Mike Stratman says in the following link: "The real temptation
>Is to just blast the deposits off the piston. Fact is this will actually
>ruin the piston. Run you finger nail lightly down the sides of a
>piston. Notice the fine knurled finish. This finish allows a thin
>film of oil to sit on this surface where it reduces friction with the
>Cylinder walls. Remove this knurled finish and the piston is Junk"
>
>http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part47.pdf
>
Talked to Tom Olenik about blasting the piston. In the CPS articles it
says you can and to use Wallnut shell or plastic bead media. Tom said he
blast them by covering the shirt of the piston below the lower ring groove
with a spiral wrapped tube like the cardboard center out of a roll of
tape. Uses glass at reduced pressure. Do not blast the skit area of the
piston, that area carries the oil for lubrication. I couldn't get any
plastic bead but did get some walnut shell and glass media. We'll try the
walnut shell first on the heads.
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
>
>Jerry,
>
>I don't want to start a flame war, but if you had been doing regular
>Seafoam treatments as described in the archives, you would not have to do
>this work.
>
>Keep the carbon out, do a Seafoam treatment every 25 hours. I have Seafoam
>soaking in the rear cylinder as we speak and will blow it out this weekend
>before going to the big Wanamingo fly-in on Sunday.
>
>I like a clean 2-stroke. Keeps me out of trouble.
>
>(Non believers can ignore this post).
>
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original Firestar
>15 years flying it
>
No flames from me, your probably right. I hadn't used the Seafoam
treatment on this engine. Got 69 hours on it, run Pennzoil the first 20,
AV2 for about the next 20 and back to Pennzoil the last 28 hours.
On our other 447 we run Pennzoil for the first 20 hours then been running
AV2 since. Completed Seafoam treatments at 25 hour intervals but found we
had to decarbon at 127 hours. That AV2 carbon residue is crystal hard,
very difficult to get of the piston and the heads. Looks like mine having
run the Pennzoil is much softer.
I'm going to try adding it to my premix. I figure that should be OK since
I normally run 92/93 oct. grade fuel.
jerryb
>
>Help!!!!
>I'm in the process of decarbonizing my Rotax 447. It appears like it would
>be a lot easier to remove the pistons to bead blast them (use plastic bed
>and protect the skirt).
>
>Anybody with experience removing and reinstalling Rotax pistons mind
>sharing your experience and some do's and don'ts. Never done it nor seen
>it done so I'm about nervous as a cat walking through a junk
>yard. Messing with those needle bearings make me very apprehensive.
>
>Here's what tools I have for doing this operation: CPS Wrist Pin Puller,
>Rotax CirClip Clip Installer, and Rotax Cageless Bearing Installer.
>
>Do you advise removing the pistons?
>
>By doing so am I likely to encounter bearing problems from doing it?
>
>On the 447, do you have to remove the cast aluminum fan housing plate to
>gain adequate access to the Mag end piston?
>
>Email me you comments and if don't mind a call, your phone number.
>
>Thanks,
>jerryb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
08/22/2002 06:40:53 AM
>jim with the coax dipole that i use i have talked to another
>ga plane at about 120 miles.... his signal report was "
>you have plenty of signal stregnth but there seems to be a
>lot of background noise.." the background noise is
>understandable..... and the signal stregnth is produced
>with only a 1 watt radio..... my vote is for something
>better than a rubber duck. and the antenna is not in the
>slip streem... it is mounted inside the nosecone.
>boyd
OK, I know there are setups that get it out there further than 20 miles.
What you'll have to explain to me is why I need to xmit that far from a
Kolb? As it is, when I get a thousand feet under me, if my buddy is
airborne 20 miles away at his field, we can talk. And as I approach an
airstrip, I can announce at 5 miles out. And I can receive from a state
away for other traffic and weather from 5 stations. What am i missing, why
do I need more range?
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
What am i missing, why
> do I need more range?
An emergency such as a forced landing in a remote area would apply for some
flyers. Probably other types of emergencies also. ...........snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> An emergency such as a forced landing in a remote area would apply for some
> flyers. Probably other types of emergencies also. ...........snuffy
Kirk/Gang:
VHF voice comm is line of site. Once you crash your
effective range is drastically reduced.
I agree with Jim G. All I need is to be able to call 10
miles out for tower controlled airports and 5 miles out for
uncontrolled.
In remote areas of Alaska and some places in sparsely
populated areas of Western Canada, there are remote relay
sites, comm attennas on tops of mountains, etc. I was
usually in comm range with my hand held King KX99, which I
used on the 1994, 2000, and 2001 flights.
I also agree with Boyd. Generally, the better the radio
operates during good conditions, the better it will operater
under poor conditions. His radio may still be able to xmit
under poor conditions, while mine with much less range may
not.
I have no idea what mine xmits, but most of the time it will
receive well over 100 miles from other aircraft in the air.
The bottom line is, mine little hand held gets me in and out
of where I want to go.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Olenik" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
Subject: | Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
AV-2 probably makes the hardest carbon deposits that I have seen. I don't
know why anyone uses it. Just to make things hard on me I suppose.
Usually, running the right oil and the right ratio, and good gasoline, an
engine will go for a couple hundred hours before the rings stick, so I don't
see any advantage in sea foan either unless it is to compensate for bad oil
or mixing practices.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerryb
Subject: Re:Kolb-List: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons
>
>Jerry,
>
>I don't want to start a flame war, but if you had been doing regular
>Seafoam treatments as described in the archives, you would not have to do
>this work.
>
>Keep the carbon out, do a Seafoam treatment every 25 hours. I have Seafoam
>soaking in the rear cylinder as we speak and will blow it out this weekend
>before going to the big Wanamingo fly-in on Sunday.
>
>I like a clean 2-stroke. Keeps me out of trouble.
>
>(Non believers can ignore this post).
>
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original Firestar
>15 years flying it
>
No flames from me, your probably right. I hadn't used the Seafoam
treatment on this engine. Got 69 hours on it, run Pennzoil the first 20,
AV2 for about the next 20 and back to Pennzoil the last 28 hours.
On our other 447 we run Pennzoil for the first 20 hours then been running
AV2 since. Completed Seafoam treatments at 25 hour intervals but found we
had to decarbon at 127 hours. That AV2 carbon residue is crystal hard,
very difficult to get of the piston and the heads. Looks like mine having
run the Pennzoil is much softer.
I'm going to try adding it to my premix. I figure that should be OK since
I normally run 92/93 oct. grade fuel.
jerryb
>
>Help!!!!
>I'm in the process of decarbonizing my Rotax 447. It appears like it would
>be a lot easier to remove the pistons to bead blast them (use plastic bed
>and protect the skirt).
>
>Anybody with experience removing and reinstalling Rotax pistons mind
>sharing your experience and some do's and don'ts. Never done it nor seen
>it done so I'm about nervous as a cat walking through a junk
>yard. Messing with those needle bearings make me very apprehensive.
>
>Here's what tools I have for doing this operation: CPS Wrist Pin Puller,
>Rotax CirClip Clip Installer, and Rotax Cageless Bearing Installer.
>
>Do you advise removing the pistons?
>
>By doing so am I likely to encounter bearing problems from doing it?
>
>On the 447, do you have to remove the cast aluminum fan housing plate to
>gain adequate access to the Mag end piston?
>
>Email me you comments and if don't mind a call, your phone number.
>
>Thanks,
>jerryb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 08/21/02 |
The part where you go to 100 : 1 synthetic ratios.
===================================
100 to 1 will have to be done with premix or you could
mix synthetic oil 50 : 50 with gas then put it in your oil
resivor. then the oil pump would be putting the oil in at
a 100 : 1 mix........
the possible problems. 50 : 50 oil mix may not have
enough viscosity to pump
you may need to
rejet
the gas oil mixture
may not be stable over time ( seperate)
do a bit of testing first and good luck
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 08/21/02 |
While on radio subject, our tests of rubber-duckie antenna
versus a
solid-wire antenna with ground plane and tuned with SWR
meter, have shown
almost no real advantage to having an antenna in the
airstream. Both
transmitted/received about 20 miles, outside antenna
slightly cleaner, but
both useable.
Jim Gerken
======================================
i will grant you that all rubber ducks are not the
same..... some may even get close to a 1/4 wave
verticle..... but trying your same experiment use a
field stregnth meter. "MOST" rubber ducks will have about
3 db loss over a 1/4 wave verticle......a 3 db loss means
that 1/2 of the rf signal is being converted to heat and
not going out into the air..... also the aviation band is
using a verticle polerization. the perminant antenna can be
installed verticle and will always be in that position.. a
rubber duck may not always be positioned to most effectivily
transmit the signal. also the perminantly mounted antenna
should not be affected by radiation resistance.( bad
propigation properties associated with other metal objects
near by.)
that is the technical end of things....... will a handheld
and rubber duck be enough to get by..... most certanly
yes. i have run a ham radio handheld and rubberduck for
years.... and get by just fine.
boyd.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
>
> Kirk/Gang:
>
> VHF voice comm is line of site. Once you crash your
> effective range is drastically reduced.
John,
Sure could be! Might be dead! LOL A 50 ohm resister stuck in my bnc
connector will give me an swr of 1:1 and a range of a few hundred yards at
best. I prefer the best antenna I can install on my plane. Never know when
ducting might occur. If I'm fortunate enough to fly to Alaska one day which
is my dream, I will also carry a mobile Low Band VHF rig with me. ..Snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re:fuel transfer |
i have not heard this point of view on the subject of fuel
transfer and i am not sure if i leard this on the list or at
the airport where i fly so here goes.
while pouring gas from a plastic container the static can
be reduced by adding an extention to your spout and placing
the end of the spout under the level of gas inside your tank
while pouring... by not allowing the fuel to fall through
the air the static potential is kept to a mim.
i am not sure if this is gosple true or not but it has
worked for me..... i have a setup that nearly matches
johns i lift the 5 gal tank and put it on my shoulder
and it emptys real fast.... i usually will hold onto the
windshield hinge with my other hand to help equalize the
static charge while the gas is pouring.....
my 2 cents worth.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
> Well I would also recommend a 44 magnum if you want to fly outside the
> gliding range to human habitation. I used to do seasonal work up there.
>
> Ron
Got one of those also . Snuffy
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Headset problems! |
From: | dcjcwcr27(at)juno.com |
Hello all I am a long time lurker who now has a problem and needs help. I
must warn you that my son and i sold our Kolb earlier this year. He is
now flying a fp202 and i fly a Rans -S 4. The Kolb is a great airplane i
cant knock it in any way. NOW to my problem---- I use an Icom Hand held
and i recently acquired a couple of helicopter headsets, i converted the
plug to the std. 2 plug setup BUT i cant get the mic to transmit!!! the
earphone works fine. Its a dynamic mic, if that makes a difference. Can
anyone tell me why this thing wont work- and a way to fix it , i already
changed the mic,and checked the wiring 3 times. Thanks for any help
!!! David Crider ,FT Collins Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Subject: | Headset problems! |
David,
I use a couple of David Clark helicopter headsets with and Icom, put
together by John Meyer and they work great! I have no idea what the problem
is, but I believe John could help you out. He builds custom headsets with
whatever parts you want. jomeyer(at)msn.com 616-896-9858
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
dcjcwcr27(at)juno.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Headset problems!
Hello all I am a long time lurker who now has a problem and needs help. I
must warn you that my son and i sold our Kolb earlier this year. He is
now flying a fp202 and i fly a Rans -S 4. The Kolb is a great airplane i
cant knock it in any way. NOW to my problem---- I use an Icom Hand held
and i recently acquired a couple of helicopter headsets, i converted the
plug to the std. 2 plug setup BUT i cant get the mic to transmit!!! the
earphone works fine. Its a dynamic mic, if that makes a difference. Can
anyone tell me why this thing wont work- and a way to fix it , i already
changed the mic,and checked the wiring 3 times. Thanks for any help
!!! David Crider ,FT Collins Colo.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Headset problems! |
From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Sounds like you have military headsets. If so...The earphone speakers and
mic will need to be changed. I believe GA uses an electret mic, not
dynamic. The impedance of the speakers is also different from GA to
Military. The mil speakers will work, but they could eventually damage the
radio due to the difference in impedance.
I've converted a few military flight helmets to GA electronics. The parts
ran about $125 for www.aviationhelmets.com
They should be able to help you on your headsets. The problem with
converting headsets is that it costs about as much to convert as to buy a
decent new headset. I just bought a very nice Flightcom headset for $129.
Where military flight helmets can cost upwards of $800, it makes more sense
to convert than to buy new.
Ross
> From: dcjcwcr27(at)juno.com
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 10:31:19 -0600
> To: kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Headset problems!
>
>
> Hello all I am a long time lurker who now has a problem and needs help. I
> must warn you that my son and i sold our Kolb earlier this year. He is
> now flying a fp202 and i fly a Rans -S 4. The Kolb is a great airplane i
> cant knock it in any way. NOW to my problem---- I use an Icom Hand held
> and i recently acquired a couple of helicopter headsets, i converted the
> plug to the std. 2 plug setup BUT i cant get the mic to transmit!!! the
> earphone works fine. Its a dynamic mic, if that makes a difference. Can
> anyone tell me why this thing wont work- and a way to fix it , i already
> changed the mic,and checked the wiring 3 times. Thanks for any help
> !!! David Crider ,FT Collins Colo.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Usually, running the right oil and the right ratio, and good gasoline, an
engine will go for a couple hundred hours before the rings stick, so I don't
see any advantage in sea foan either unless it is to compensate for bad oil
or mixing practices.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
Tom,
Why not go 400+ hours without ring sticking if there is an additive like Seafoam
that will nearly eliminate it?
I flew 11 years having to take my engine apart every 150 hours due to ring sticking.
I wanted to find a way where I would not have to do this with my 2-stroke.
I think I've come close.
Do the Seafoam treatments and use Klotz KL-216 synthetic oil 50:1 and see the difference.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Olenik" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
Subject: | Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
Because the crank seals usually start leaking well before then. I tell
people that if they have to tear down the engine just because of sticking
rings, they are probably doing something wrong. In the Rotax 2-stroke
engines, the crank seals are the weakest link in the engine.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com/rotax.htm
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com/2si-engines.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Subject: Re:RE: Kolb-List: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons
Tom,
Why not go 400+ hours without ring sticking if there is an additive like
Seafoam that will nearly eliminate it?
I flew 11 years having to take my engine apart every 150 hours due to ring
sticking. I wanted to find a way where I would not have to do this with my
2-stroke. I think I've come close.
Do the Seafoam treatments and use Klotz KL-216 synthetic oil 50:1 and see
the difference.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Because the crank seals usually start leaking well before then. I tell
people that if they have to tear down the engine just because of sticking
rings, they are probably doing something wrong. In the Rotax 2-stroke
engines, the crank seals are the weakest link in the engine.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
Tom,
There are Rotax engines flying with 400+ hours without an overhaul. I think it
depends on the flying conditions and how it has been maintained over the years.
I have also seen engines with little time on them that have seized up due to
operator error.
You might take a second look into some of them that have been using synthetics.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Olenik" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
Subject: | Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
Yes, some engine go 400 hours or more without problems. That is probably
one of the reasons why I overhaul more engines with problems than I do
preventative maintenance. They hear about so and so running 600 hours
without a tear down and figure on doing the same. Only it doesn't make it
that long.
I would say that if I looked at all the engines that came in here with
problems, most of them have between 150 and 225 hours since the last
teardown and re-seal. How the engine is used, how often it is used and for
how long, certainly has a big effect, and engines can go to 600 hours
between teardown if the hours are put on fast, but for the average person
150 hours is more than 3 years and often the engine sits for months at a
time. The seals dry out and by 150 hours they are leaking. Usually that
leak will become problematic by 200 until it gets like this 582 I have here
now. 5 years old with 186 hours on it. Will not hold full power. Or like
the 503 I had here last summer with just 80 hours, but 8 years old that
would not hold power either. That one had a seal that was so far gone that
you could see the bearings from the outside of the engine. The engine would
still make it to 4000 RPM though.
I know I don't see every engine out there, but the ones that I do see with
problems are usually the ones that go past either 150 hours or 6 years of
age without new seals, and I tend to think the 6 years is a bigger factor
than the 150 hours because I do see a few engines with 500 - 600 hours in
for preventative maintenance that have never been appart before. Not a lot,
but some. Those high hour engines are almost always under 3 years old and
never any older than 5 years old.
That's just my experience.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com/rotax.htm
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com/2si-engines.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Subject: Re:RE: RE: Kolb-List: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447
Pistons
Because the crank seals usually start leaking well before then. I tell
people that if they have to tear down the engine just because of sticking
rings, they are probably doing something wrong. In the Rotax 2-stroke
engines, the crank seals are the weakest link in the engine.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
Tom,
There are Rotax engines flying with 400+ hours without an overhaul. I think
it depends on the flying conditions and how it has been maintained over the
years. I have also seen engines with little time on them that have seized up
due to operator error.
You might take a second look into some of them that have been using
synthetics.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 |
Pistons
>
>
>Yes, some engine go 400 hours or more without problems. That is probably
>one of the reasons why I overhaul more engines with problems than I do
>preventative maintenance.
Tom can you tell if the rings are stuck by doing a compression test.
Say it runs up to 120 lbs on a 503.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DMe5430944(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 08/21/02 |
NAPA auto parts has SeaFoam..instructions for use is on the can
Don Mekeel FF002
El Paso, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tom Olenik" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
Subject: | Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447 Pistons |
Can we post pictures on this list? I'd like to show a picture of a piston
that was making 110 pounds of compression on a 447. The top ring is gone
along with most of the piston on the exhaust side above the lower ring. The
other piston which was undamaged was at 115 but both pistons were over .008"
clearances and all the rings were over .030" end gap. This engine never
quit and was running right up to the time when he traded it in on a new 447.
Someone had picked up a couple of 447 piston from a snowmobile shop which
followed the cross references to a piston that is actually smaller than the
current standard sized. Since no one probably actually measure the
clearance, they started out beyond the maximum clearance most likely. At
one point Rotax changed the standard sized piston on the 447 to one that is
a little larger. This engine came with that larger standard size, but
someone installed the smaller standard sized piston. Still ran and still
had compression.
A compression test on a Rotax engine has very little value. It will tell
you if there is a hole in the piston or if there is a differential, it might
tell you something, but there is NO specification to go by what it
acceptable and what is not. However, you can physically check for stuck
rings through the exhaust port.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com/rotax.htm
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com/2si-engines.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of possums
Subject: RE: RE: RE: Kolb-List: Need guidance on removal of Rotax 447
Pistons
>
>
>Yes, some engine go 400 hours or more without problems. That is probably
>one of the reasons why I overhaul more engines with problems than I do
>preventative maintenance.
Tom can you tell if the rings are stuck by doing a compression test.
Say it runs up to 120 lbs on a 503.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 08/22/02 |
In a message dated 8/23/02 2:51:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> I flew 11 years having to take my engine apart every 150 hours due to ring
> sticking
I was wondering how rotax owners, who find rings that stick, notice that they
had a problem. Is it something you find visually during annual inspection,
or when it happens, does it show up immediately as a loss of rpm, or
roughness in running? How do you know when the rings stick?
Bob G
Albany NY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
08/23/2002 07:24:35 AM
>AV-2 probably makes the hardest carbon deposits that I have seen. I don't
>know why anyone uses it. Just to make things hard on me I suppose.
OK, now we're getting somewhere. We are very fortunate to have firm
evidence, in the form of repair experience, of which oils are more and less
desireable.
TOM, you are in a position to rank the oils you have seen come in your
shop, in order of deposit "hardness". Also, it may be in your power to
rank some of the available oils in order of protection, or some other
factors that you may be aware of.
Tom, what about fuel, doesn't it also contribute to deposits? How does a
person identify the difference between oil and fuel deposits? Any
recommendations on fuel?
Thanks to Tom and all...
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
In a message dated 8/23/02 2:51:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> I flew 11 years having to take my engine apart every 150 hours due to ring
> sticking
I was wondering how rotax owners, who find rings that stick, notice that they
had a problem. Is it something you find visually during annual inspection,
or when it happens, does it show up immediately as a loss of rpm, or
roughness in running? How do you know when the rings stick?
Bob G
Albany NY
Bob,
There is no warning if a ring sticks. The engine will run fine on one ring. In
my case, I ran it for a long time without checking anything as I was new to this.
Finally one winter day, I was flying along over the frozen lake (luckily)
and the rpms dropped off quickly and the EGT went beyond 1300F. The engine quit
in the air after that and I glided to a safe landing on the lake. I tried all
afternoon to get it started, but could not. Spent the night out there in -5F
conditions.
After taking the cylinders off (at home), I found the bottom ring on the rear cylinder
stuck. I had the engine overhauled by a 2-stroke mechanic and flew another
250 hours on that 377 until I got a good deal on my 447 that I fly with to
this day.
When I got the 447, I heard about Klotz synthetic oil and Seafoam. I inspect the
rings on an annual basis and do the treatments. Hopefully, I won't have to spend
another night on a frozen lake.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Charles White" <c.f.white(at)att.net> |
I am just about to finish my Mk.3 (FAA inspection next week) and one of the
remaining details is the elevator stops. The plans say if you have more than
9 3/4" - up & down install .032 stops to the ring. My question is: attach to
the ring where and how? I have studied this for a couple of days and don't
like the solutions I am coming up with. Any thoughts on this would be
greatly appreciated!
Charles White
N970CW
Mk. 3 / 912
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John J. Peters" <TopGunPI(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Escaped Disaster |
Something to check , during these hot days of late .
Maybe an oversite on my part , maybe NOT .
Hope this helps save someone else .
Attached is a copy of an e-mail sent to customersupport@tnkolbaircraft .
JJP
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | more radio range |
And I can receive from a state
away for other traffic and weather from 5 stations. What am
i missing, why
do I need more range?
Jim Gerken
=========================
i suppose that is why i mentioned that i use a rubber duck
on short range ham radio communications......
but i guess that when flying in rurel utah 100 miles awar
from the civilization the extra range could be handy in an
emergency, or trying to get ahold of a fss to close a
flight plan etc. i guess in a true emergerncy you could
xmit on 121.5 i have been told that the airlines monitor
that frequency while airborne..
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Hello all I am a long time lurker who now has a problem and
needs help. I
must warn you that my son and i sold our Kolb earlier this
year. He is
now flying a fp202 and i fly a Rans -S 4. The Kolb is a
great airplane i
cant knock it in any way. NOW to my problem---- I use an
Icom Hand held
and i recently acquired a couple of helicopter headsets, i
converted the
plug to the std. 2 plug setup BUT i cant get the mic to
transmit!!! the
earphone works fine. Its a dynamic mic, if that makes a
difference. Can
anyone tell me why this thing wont work- and a way to fix it
changed the mic,and checked the wiring 3 times. Thanks
for any help
!!! David Crider ,FT Collins Colo.
==========================
is it possible to draw the wireing diagram for the headset
and the radio requirements and what you have done between
the two.... with this information i would have a better
chance of helping. also if you had the impedence figures for
the mikes and earphones it would help.... another option is
to take the setup to an electronics repair and have them see
if there is any mike modulation on the output pins using an
osiliscope. maybe the mikes are bad , or you have only
accounted for one side of the mike input.
you could email me the schematic off list or you could fax
it to me. let me know
boyd
August 06, 2002 - August 23, 2002
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dt